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WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
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"'^i. ' ''^y^T^Sj^.
THE
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AMEEICAN aUIDE BOOK;
B K I ir e
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A HAND-BOOK
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FOR TOURISTS AND TRAVELLERS
THROUGH EVERY PART OF THE UNITED STATES.
EMBRACIire
FULL TABLES OP ROUTES AND DISTANCES FROM PLACE TO PLACE,
WITH CLEAR AND ACCURATE DESCRIPTIONS OF ALL THE
VARIOUS CITIES, TOWNS, AND NATURAL OR ARTI-
FICIAL CURIOSITIES OF DIFFERENT ROUTES.
THE WHOXB mBCBDBD WITH
SHORT DIRSCTIONS TO TRAVELLERS, REMARKS ON THE UNITED STATES,
THE MANNERS &c OF THE PEOPLE. TABLES OF FOREIGN
, COIN IN AMERICAN MONEY, ETC. FTC.
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IliLUSTRATED WITH VIEWS OF THE PRINCIPAL CITIES, AND MAPS OF THE
STATES AND THE VARIOUS ROUTES.
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PARTI.
NOBTHEBN JEKD EASTERN STATES AND CANADA.
PHILADELPHIA:
GEORGE S. APPLETON, 148 CHESTNUT STREET.
NEW YORK:
D. APPLETON & CO., 200 BROADWAY.
1846.
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ENTEBED, ACCOBDIMO to act of OOMOBBSS, in tub year 1846, BY
W. p. HAZARD, IN THE clerk's office of thb distbict court or
the eastebn distbict of pennsyltania.
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PREFACE. ^
The obvious want of a good Guide Book that travellers
might have in their hand as a companion for their tour, has
led the writer to produce the present work.
The Guide Books hitherto published consist for the most
part of merely tables of routes and distances, or such short
and imperfect sketches of places as to be of very little use
to the intelligent traveller who wishes to know something of
the scenes through which he is travelling. The waiter has
endeavoured to confine himself to matter-of-fact descriptions
of what ought to be feen, and is calculated to interest the
tourist at each place. The style adopted is as simple and
condensed as possible, avoiding florid descriptions and exag<
gerated superlatives ; often availing himself of the descrip-
tions of others, where they appeared good and correct and
agreed with his own experience and that of his travelled
friends. — ^ - ^ ' . - n . »f. .
The subject of this volume, and the o'vpose for which it
is written, admit of little novelty, most of he information it
contains being necessarily derived from a great number of
books, modified by actual observation. Much pains have
been taken to acquire the most recent information from the
best authorities and every source, and to bring it down to
the time of publication. Many of the routes also, have
never before been laid down in any Guide Book published in
this country, and much Other matter has never appeared in
book form. The volume is complete in itself, and is intended
to preclude the necessity of resorting to any other Guide
Book, the principal objects of interest and the large cities being
A 2 V
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TI
PREFACE.
very fully and accurately described, so as to preclude the
necessity of using local guides.
Comprehensiveness with brevity being essential qualities
for a work of this kind, all extraneous matter has been
omitted, and it is hoped the work will be found to consist
of all that is likely to be useful or interesting to travellers.
The various Routes are arranged under the head of each prin-
cipal city, with a general table of the main routes in the
commencement. The plan and arrangement of the matter
is essentially different from that of any previous guide, and
it is hoped it will meet the wants of the travelling public.
New York, the metropolis of the United States, has been
taken as the starting point, as from there routes diverge in
every direction. Part 1st will therefore contain a guide for
all North, East, and directly West of N. York city. Fart 2d
will contain all South and West of the same.
In short, accuracy, conciseness, and a just discrimination
of the importance of the several objects described, being the
qualifications most valued in a Guide Book, it has been the
aim of the Editor to devote his most anxious attention to the
attainment of these requisites, and it is believed the present
work will be found to contain a larger amount of well
digested information than has ever been presented in any
volume of such convenient size.
s.ci -411^1
^■^^■
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SKELETONS OF THE MAIN ROUTES. *
t
Mllei. Houri.
New York to Boston via Stonington and Provi-
dence 224 ... 144
New York to Boston via Norwich and Wor-
cester 237 ... 15
New York to Boston via New Haven, Hartford,
and Springfield, Mass 238 . , . 13i
New York to Albany by S. B. via Hudson r. . . 145 ... 10
New York to Albany via Bridgeport and West
Stockbridgo 196 ... 14
New York to Albany via S. B. to Piermont,
thence by R. R. and stage 166 ... 28
New York to Albany via stage E. side of the
Hudson 154 ... 28
New York to Buffalo via Albany, Schenectady,
Syracuse, Utica, and Rochester 471 . . .34
New York to Dunkirk via N. York and Erie
R. R 475
New York tc Montreal via Albany, and Lake
Champlain 250 ... 36
Albany to Buffalo by R. R 326 ... 24
Albany to Buffalo via Erie canal 364 ... 96
Albany to Montreal via Lake Champlain 250 ... 36
Albany to Niagara Falls via Buffalo 348 ... 25
Albany to Boston via Springfield and Worces-
ter 200.. .12
VII
/■■■
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yUI SKELETONS OP THE MAIN ROUTES.
Milfli. noun.
Boston to New York 237 ... 15
Boston to Portland by R. R 105 .. . 51
Boston to Bangor by R. R. and stage via Port- ^ *
land 234.! .25i
Boston to Bangor by steamboat 245. . . 18
Boston to Quebec via Portland, Augusta, and
Norridgewock 405 y
Boston to Montreal by R. R. to Concord and by
stage and S. B. via Burlington 317
Boston to Albany by R. R 200 ... 12
Boston to Buffalo via Albany by R. R 525 ... 36
Buffalo to Kingston, Canada, via Niagara Falls v . >
and Lewiston 222 ... 24
Buffalo to Montreal via Lake Ontario and St.
Lawrence river 434 ... 48
Buffalo to Detroit by steamboat 263. . .30
Buffalo to Chicago via the great lakes 1047 ... 72
Buffalo to Chicago via Detroit, thence by R. R.
and stage 640. . .60
•^■. -»
DIRECTIONS TO THE TRAVELLER.
The points of the compaps are often marked simply by the
letters N. S. E. W.
R. (right) L. (left) are generally applied to the banks of a
river, and are on your respective hands when approaching a
place.
m. for mile.
Pop. for population,
p. for page. • i
r. for river.
fi. R. for Railroad.
S. B. for Steamboat.
H. for House or Hotel.
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The names of Hotels or Inns are generally added to the
description of each place ; the best Hotels, unless ;'^cially
mentioned, as far as they can be determined are placed first.
Instead of designating a town merely by the vague words
'•'large" or "small," the amount of population according to
the census of 1840, (unless the date is mentioned) is almost
invariably stated, as presenting a more exact scale of the
importance and size of the place.
In giving a list of routes from any particular place, if the
route is described more fully in another part of the work a
reference is made to the page or pages where it is so de-
scribed.
If the traveller wishes to find the description of any par-
ticular place, a reference to the Index will direct him to the
proper page.
Caution to English Travellers. — By a recent Act of
Parliament the introduction into England of American or
other foreign printed editions of the works of British Authors,
in which the copy right subsists, is totally prohibited. Travel-
lers who are often tempted by the cheapness of the Ameri-
can books, will therefore bear in mind that even a single
copy is contraband, and is liable to seizure at the English
Custom-house.
.*,
IX
I
*
RAILROAD S S TEAMBOATS.
.'•>».(
RAILROADS.
The United States are traversed by these iron roads in
every direction ; they are generally well laid on a level sur-
face, with comfortable cars, and form a delightful mode of
travelling, going at the rate of 20 or 30 miles an hour. ^
In 1835 there were but 984 miles of railroad .. -f - ~ . .
I ' STEAMBOATS.
' The use of steam is now universal throughout the United
States, where in fact its application to useful purposes was
first made. Almost all the rivers and the larger lakes, with
■"-'ws:^-'
STEAMBOAT S — H O T E L S.
XI
which thia country is blessed, are traversed by numerous
steamboats, some of them being nearly 350 ft. long, furnished
in such a style and with conveniences so numerous as to be
floating palaces. They are generally a very safe and plea-
sant mode of travelling affording excellent views of the coun-
try; on some of the southern and westem waters as the
Ohio, Mississippi, and others, they are liable to be 'snagged,'
as the running against the trunk of a tree that has fallen into
the river, is termed ; these snags if they have become sta-
tionary, generally stave in the bottom, and it is then neces-
sary to run the boat ashore, but it frequently founders in
doing BO. The fare h f^enerally very low, as there are usually
opposition lines which reduce the rates of fare. In the body
of the work, the rates are not always given, as the frequent
changes would soon render the statements useless.
HOTELS AND INNS. ;?>
These are given in detail under descriptions of different
places ] in the larger cities and capitals they are generally
splendid, but often in small towns they will be found indif-
ferent. On the whole they are not inferior to any in the
world. The largest hotels are always supplied with polite
and efficient waiters, excellent cooks, and almost every con-
venience. The beds and furniture are perfect, the means
of ablution are clean and neat, many of the houses now
having warm and cold baths, the tables are supplied with
all the delicacies of the season and the choicest wines, and
generally if the travel' ;ir sojourns any length of time he can
be as comfortable as at home. The Americans are such a
travelling, constantly moving people, being probably tempted
thereto by their splendid lines of railroads, steamboats, and
other conveniences for travelling, that it becomes necessary
not only that there should be numerous houses for entertain-
ment, but that they should be well kept to receive patronage.
4
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ZII
EATING HOUSE S — A M E R I C A N MONEY.
h
The usual price of board is from $1 to $2.50 per day;
although at all the firstrate hotels the charge is usually $2
per day. The fees to the servants are optional, only a few
of the houses having adopted the convenient plan of charg-
ing it in the bill. The principal newspapers of the various
parts of the country are to be found in the reading rooms.
The hotels have wagons for the conveyance of passenger's
baggage, free of charge, from the depots. ; , : r • -
;v
<■"' EATING HOUSES, CONFECTIONARIES, ETC.
The number and extent of some of these establishments is
very great. At some of the Eating Houses meals of plain ex-
cellent food can be had for 25 cents. At the best Confec-
tionaries, coffee, tea, or chocolate, ice creams, jellies, cooling
drinks, and other delicacies, are to be obtained at all hours
and of most excellent quality.
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MONEY.
Foreigners and even Americans in travelling from one part
of the country to another will find a great variety in the cur-
rency in use. If the traveller wishes to carry sums of any
amount it is always better to pay a broker the current rate
of exchange and obtain his drafts upon different cities, as it
not only is a perfectly safe but easy method of carrying large
amounts. It is as cheap in the end to pay the rate of ex-
change, as in travelling from one state to another frequently
th3 bank-notes are at a discount and below par, you are
therefore obliged to pay this discount to pass your money,
as well as to run the risk of taking counterfeit money, as it
is impossible to be acquainted sufficiently with the notes of
every bank, aa to detect a spurious note.
The paper currency consists of notes of almost every even
denomination from a one dollar note to a thousand dollars.
FiKEIGN COINS IN AMERICAN MONEY. XIII
The metal currency is manufactured by the U. S. mint and
branches. To the traveller from abroad the following table
will be useful :
An Eagle (of gold) is equal to 10 dollars. '■ • '
A Half « « « « 5 « - ^ •'
A Quarter « « " 2i " ' '
A Dollar (of silver) " " 10 dimes or 100 cents.
A Half ''■ " " " 5 " 50
A dime " " " 10 cents.
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There are also quarters of a dollar or 25 cts., half dimes or
5 cts. The cent is of copper.
Spanish or Mexican coins of the value of 12i cts. and 6i
cts. are extensively in circulation, though not so much so as
formerly. In Boston and the New England States the 12i ct.
piece is called a nine-pence, and the 6i ct. piece a four-pence ;
in New York, they are called a shilling, and a six-pence; in
Pennsylvania and one or two other states, a levy and a fip;
in Louisiana and other southern states, a bit, and a picayune ;
where also they pass for the same as ten-cent and five-cent
pieces.
I.
.*■■
FOREIGN COINS IN AMERICAN CURRENCY.
English Gumea $5.00
,, " Sovereign 4.84
" 7 shilling piece . 1.69
" Silver £ 4.65
French Louis d'or.... 4.80
" Napoleon 3.82
" Crown 1.06
" 5 franc piece.. 94
Ducats 2.25
Doubloons, Spanish. . . 16.00
" Patriot 15.50
Ten Guilder pieces. . . 3.90
FiveThalers 3.90
Thaler 65
Fredericks d'or 3.90
German Crowns 1.04
Head Pistareen 18
Old Pistareens 16
Spanish and Mexican dollars same as American.
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I*
XIV CHARACTERISTICS OF THE COUNTRY.
h A.
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE COUNTRY.
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In travelling over so large a space of country as is em-
braced within the boundaries of the United States, it is im-
possible not to observe striking differences in the scenery,
the habits, manners, and general appearance of the different
portions. Almost every variety of climate is experienced ;
in Maine, and other extreme northern portions the cold is
extreme, while going farther south the climate of the Middle
States is varied and pleasant, and still farther South the cli-
mate and productions evidence a nearer approach to the
equator ; the local appearance of the country is also in keep-
ing with the temperature. In travelling over so great an
extent of country affording a field of study and observation
almost inexhaustible, every variety of taste, whether in pur-
suit of health, instruction or amusement, cannot fail to be
gratified. Almost every portion is full of associations, espe-
cially in the N. and £. States, either connected with the
early history, the border wars, or the great revolutionary
struggle for freedom. The history of the republic is not a
mere record of political party, or the contendings of rival
factions ; it is the record of an era in which modern civiliza-
tion received a right direction and developed itself in a glo-
rious manner.
The physical characters of the country are not less inte-
resting than its historical associations. Its resources have
hitherto been very imperfectly appreciated, and are now be-
ginning to be fully developed and to receive that attention
which they deserve. By English travellers generally, no
people or country have been so little understood, or so much
misrepresented. A traveller arriving here, and who hurries
through the country, neither stopping to explore the objects
which present themselves on the road, nor turning aside into
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S C E N E R Y — G E N E R A I. VIE W.
XV
less beaten tracts, can have formed no iilea of the true cha-
racter of the people, or their institutions. It is only by seek-
ing them in their own homes, that he will be able to appre-
ciate the educated and courteous character of the ' upper ten
thousand,' the intelligence of the middle classes, or the
merits of the lower classes.
SCENERY.
The scenery of the United States possesses a romance
and charm peculiar to itself. Whatever may be the beau-
ties of particular districts traversed by the principal roads,
the finest characters of American scenery must be sought,
like the people, beyond the beaten track. The fertility of
the country, the rugged and picturesque mountains, the ro-
mantic beauty of the streams and waterfalls, the wide spread-
ing prairie, and the magnificent lakes, have each an interest
of a different character, which the traveller will not be long
in appreciating as they deserve.
travellers' general view of the united states.
To mention any particular feature as being general through-
out the country, would be impossible, as the whole appear-
ance is so varied ; but the traveller will be struck by the
enterprise and spirit of activity displayed by the people, and
their rapid progress in the arts and sciences. To point out
the most interesting points in the scenery, would exceed our
limits, and the tourist is referred to the following pages,
from which he can lay down for himself the plan of a tour,
embracing as many points as his time or inclination will
permit.
The traveller will meet with none of those perfect speci-
mens of architecture, remains and ruins of celebrated cas-
tles or abbeys, and other similar objects which form the main
i
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m:
XVI
T R A V E L L E R S' GENERAL VIEW.
points of ioterest in a foreign tour ; the comparatively new
settlement of the country forbids it. A much better spirit
and a more proper appreciation of architecture than formerly,
is now springing up.
The finest cities are Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Bal-
timore, Washington, Richmond, Cincinnati, New Orleans,
New Haven, and Charleston, all more or less distinguished
for commerce, manufactures, and fine edifices ; the suburbs
are generally interesting and often beautiful. The cities and
larger towns are usually laid out with broad and regular
streets well paved and lighted, the houses mostly of brick
with marble fronts in a neat and often elegant style.
In the large cities there are many charitable, benevolent,
scientific, literary, and other institutions ; the public libraries
and reading rooms are scattered over the country in every
city, town or village.
To those who wish to look deeper into the institutions,
manners, &c. of the United States, such books as the follow-
ing should be obtained, and not the ephemeral and preju-
diced sketches of hasty tours made by English writers. The
' America and Americans' of Von Raumer is liberal and un-
prejudiced ; Dr. Lyell's ' Travels in North America' is very
candid, and valuable to the geologist ; 'Democracy in Ame-
rica' by De Tocqueville is valuable for its political view of
the country; almost every State also, has had its local his-
torian.
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A GENERAL VIEW
OP
THE UNITED STATES.
As oar work is intended to be a Practical Hand Book
FOR THE Traveller, its design and limits will allow only
a short sketch of the United States to be given. ; . ,..
ITS GENERAL OUTLINE AND ASPECT.
The United States, constituting the most celebrated repub-
lic in the world, and ranking high amongst the greatest na-
tions, extends through twenty-nine degrees, from 25° to 54^
N. latitude, and through fifty-eight degrees, from 67° to
125° W. longitude, containing about 2,300,000 square miles.
Its greatest length is 3000 m. and its greatest breadth
1700 m., with a frontier length of about 10,000 m., of
which 3600 m. are sea coast, and 1200 m. lake coast. It
is bounded, north, by British and Russian America; east,
by New Brunswick and the Atlantic ; south, by the gulf of
Mexico and Mexico j and, west, by the Pacific ocean.
It is traversed by two great ranges of Mountains, dividing
the country into three natural sections. The Appalachian
or Alleghany range is more remarkable for its length than
height, its mean elevation being between 2000 and 3000 ft.
It consists of five or six parallel chains, rising from the
2 b2 17
*'
18 VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES.
vast table-]and, occupying the western part of the Atlantic
states, and the eastern part of the adjoining states of the
Mississippi valley, lying between the sources of the princi-
pal rivers of Alabama and Mississippi, and the great lakes
and St. Lawrence river. The most remarkable of these are
the White m&untains and the Blue ridge, a chain 1200 m. in
length; the Kittalinny or Blue mountain 800m. in length;
and the Alleghany ridge. The loftiest summits are Mount
Washington, G428 ft. above the sea ; and the Black mountainj
in North Carolina, 6476 ft. high. The other great range is
the Rocky mountains, a prolongation of the great Mexican
Cordilleras, but imperfectly known to us. Their average
height is about 8000 ft. above the sea, some of the peaks be-
ing 10,000 or 12,000 ft. high. The great valley lying between
these two ranges, and watered by the Mississippi and Mis-
souri rivers, is destined, at no very remote day, to be an ex-
ceedingly wealthy and populous tract, on account of its fer-
tility, and the navigability of its waters.
The Rivers of the United States form a most important
feature. The rivers east of the Alleghany mountains flow
into the Atlantic, the principal of which are the —
Penobscot Miles 250 Potomac 500
Kennebec 200 James 500
Roanoke 400
Cape Fear 350
Androscoggin 170
Saco 160
Merrimac 200
Connecticut 410
Hudson 324
Delaware 300
Susquehanna 450
Pedee 450
Santee 450
Savannah 500
Altamaha 400
St. Johns 300
The following rivers flow into the gulf of Mexico : —
Appalachicola 500 Tombigbee 450
Alabama 600 Mississippi 3000
VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES.
m
'" The following are tributarieis of the Mississippi : —
Red 1500
Arkansas 2>50
White 1200
Missouri before its junc-
tion 3180
Kansas 1100
Platte 1600
Osage 500
Yellowstone 1 100
Ohio 1350
Illinois 500
Des Moines 800
Tennessee 900
Cumberland 600
Wabash 500
St. Francis 300
The following are west of the Rocky mountains : — ' ''
Columbia 1500 Lewis' 900
Multnomah 900 Clark's 600
The two largest Lakes that lie wholly in the United Slates,
are Michigan, 330 m. long, and 60 rn. broad; and Cham-
plain, 120 m. long, and 15 m. broad. The great lakes
Superior, 380 by 130; Huron, 240 by 150; Erie 240 by 60;
and Ontario, 190 by 55 m., are one half in the United States,
the boundary line passing through them.
The principal Bays are the Chesapeake, Delaware, Massa-
chusetts and Penobscot.
The principal Capes are Ann, Cod, May, Henlopen, Charles,
Henry, Hatteras, Lookout, Fear, Florida, and Sable.
The principal Harbours are Portland, Portsmouth, Boston,
Newport, New London, New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore,
Norfolk, Charleston, Savannah, Mobile, and New Orleans.
Its population was, in —
1790 3,929,328
1800 5,309,758
1810 7,239,903
1820 9,638,166
1830 12,856,165
1840 17,062,666
of the latter of which, 2,487,1 13 w^ere slaves. Allowing the
same rate of increase, one third in every ten years as it has
hitherto been, the population in 1850, will be 22,760,000.
. The territory of the United Stales is divided into twenty
/,
^'■.
20
VIEW OP THE UNITED STATES.
eight States and three Territories, each of which has a
separate government ; and the District of Columbia, which is
under the immediate jurisdiction of the United States' Con-
gress. The following is a list of the states, with their popu-
lation, in 1840.
Nor them J or Eastern.
Maine 501,793
New-Hampshire . 284,574
Vermont 291,948
Massachusetts .. 737,699
Rhode Island 108,830
Connecticut 309,978
Middle.
New- York 2,428,921
New Jersey 373,306
Pennsylvania . . . 1,724,033
Delaware 78,085
Maryland 469,232
Southern.
Virginia 1,239,797
North Carolina. . . . 753,419
South Carolina 594,398
Georgia 691,392
Florida 64,477
Mississippi . 375,651
Louisiana 352,411
: ■'■■ Western.
Ohio 1,519,467
Kentucky 779,828
Tennessee 829,210
Michigan 212,267
Indiana 685,866
Illinois 476,183
Missouri 383,702
Arkansas 97,574
Texas, (about) . . . 200,000
■'< ' .
Territories. .
District of Colum-
bia 43,712
Wisconsin 30,945
Iowa.. 43,112
Alabama 590,756
Washington, on the Potomac, in the District of Colum-
bia, is the capital and seat of government of the United States,
haying become such in 1800.
-■i .1
POLITICAL CONSTITUTION.
The political constitution of the United States forms the
most prominent and fundamental particular in their national
i\
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VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES.
fl
[
arrangements, and for more than half a century it has fulfil-
led the essential purposes of a government, and been found
compatible with the most rapid progress in population and
wealth which any nation ever experienced. The constitu-
tion was, in fact, composed by a body of men of distinguished
ability, who had fully experienced, and anxiously sought to
guard againut, the evils to which its peculiar form is liable.
The government, as established by the constitution adopted
in 1789, is in form a federal representative democracy. The
whole country is subject to the national or general govern-
ment, consisting of three branches, the executive, legislative,
and judicial.
The Executive power is vested in the President, who holds
his oflice for the term of four years ; he is chosen by the
electors from the different states, who are mostly elected by
the people ; each state electing as many electors as they
have members in Congress. A majority of the electors'
votes is necessary for a choice ; if there be no choice, then
the House of Representatives elect one of the three candi-
dates having the most votes ; in this last balloting each state
having one vote. The Vice President is chosen in the same
manner, and for the same term ; but if there be no choice
by the electors, the Senate then chooses one of the two per-
sons having the highest number of votes. No person can be
President or Vice President, except a native-born citizen, of
the age of at least thirty-five years, and who has been four-
teen years a resident within the United States.
The President is Commander-in-chief of the army and
navy, and of the militia when in actual service of the United
States. With the advice and consent of two-thirds of the
Senate, he makes treaties, appoints embassadors, judges of
the Supreme Court, and directly or indirectly, appoints to all
the offices of the national government ; he possesses a quali-
fied veto upon the bills presented to him in Congress ; but if he
22
VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES.
#
disapproves any bill, it nevertheless becomes a law if paraer.l
by a vote of two-thirds in each house. He receives em-
bassadors and other public ministers, takes care that tha
laws be faithfully executed, and commissions all the officers
in the United States. The Vice President is president of the
Senate ; and in case of the death, resignation, or removal of
the President, the powers and duties of that officer devolve
on him.
The Legislative power is vested in a Congress, consisting
of a Senate, and a House of Representatives. The Senator?
are chosen by the legislatures of the several states, for the
term of six years; there are two from each state, and it is
required that they sliall be at least thirty-five years of ag;, and
have been citizens of the United States for nine years. The
Senate has the sole power to try all impeachments.
The Representatives are chosen for two years by the peo-
ple of each state, and must be at least twenty-five years ofi
age : and have been citizens of the United States for seven
years. Representatives pviident,
with the consent of the senate; thirty-thre- di'^riC? jourts,
and seven circuit courts.
The principal executive officers are, the secretaries of
sta!o, of the treasury, of war, and of the navy, the postmas-
tnr (Boii al, aind the attorney general. They are removeable
ai rha ivill o.i the I resident, and with the Vice President,
VIEW OF THE U KITED STATES.
23
it
of
ent,
form Ihe cabinet . The S' ^etary of State con;.. .<."fj.,„K'- ■'.,.; ^u.v.> :-■< i.ff!'A^[.^..-^. «.y ,'■.
For a letter weighing not more than half an ounce, under
300 miles, 5 cents, over 300 miles, 10 cents. For any addi-
tional weight, the charge is in proportion.
On newspapers, within 30 miles from whence they are
sent, /ree; all over that distance, li cents each.
Since this law has been in operation, the revenue of the
post-office has very materially decreased.
The Mint of the United States was established at Phila-
delphia in 1793 ; and in 1838, branches were established at
Charlotte, N. C, at Dahlonega, Ga., and at New Orleans, all
subject to the control of the director of the mint at Philadel-
phia. The coinage is executed by machines propelled by
steam-power. The amount coined in 1845, was $5,668,595 ;
whole amount since the commencement, was 293,299,905
pieces; value, $110,177,761. ....
w
VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES.
25
Each of the twenty-eight states of the great American
confederacy has its local government, separate from the na-
tional government except so much as is fixed by the consti-
tution. They all are, in fact, representative democracies,
having an elective executive and legislature, chosen by the
body of the people for a short term of service. The chief
executive officer is styled the governor, and the legislative
houses, styled general assembly, general court, or legislature,
consists of a Senate, and House of Representatives. Suffrage
is virtually universal ; blacks are, however, not permitted to
vote. The state governments manage the local and domestic
affairs of the confederacy ; organi/e, discipline, and command
the militia; charter banking and other institutions; and in
general do whatever is necessary for social order and the
public tranquillity. A small revenue is raised in each state,
adequate to the expenditure of the government, by direct
taxes, or excise and license duties.
PRODUCTIVE INDUSTRY.
d^ti.'
are
the
lila-
dat
,all
del-
595;
905
The United States have already made an astonishing pro-
gress in industry and wealth, but the present is insignificant
in comparison with the future greatness to which their vast
and unparalleled resources must carry them. They are
chiefly an agricultural people, to which they are led by the
extent of their territory and the fertility of the soil. According
to the census of 1840, poultry was raised to the value of
$9,344,410. There were produced 84,833,272 bushels of
wheat ; 7,291,743 of buckwheat ; 377,531,875 of Indian corn ;
18,645,567 of rye; 123,071,341 of oats; 108,298,060 of pota-
toes; 35,802,114 pounds of wool; 95,251 tons of hemp and
flax; 124,734 gallons of wine. The products of the dairy
were valued at $33,787,008; of the orchard at $7,256,904;
of lumber at $12,943,507^
C
•nJ'.'-.'T rvv
..iJr
26
VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES.
^'
!
The great staple, Cotton, is raised in the southern and some
few of the western states. It was first sown about 1787, and
exported in small quantities in 1790. The produce in 1840,
amounted to 790,479,275 pounds ; in 1845, to 2,394,503 bales ;
the exports in 1845, were to the amount of $51,739,643.
Tobacco, an indigenous American plant, is extensively cul-
tivated in Maryland, Virginia, Kentucky, Ohio, and other
states. The American is decidedly superior to that of most
other countries. There were produced in 1840, 219,163,319
pounds; and in 1844, there were exported $8,397,255 worth.
Sugar, is raised with much success in Louisiana, where
there are several varieties reared. In 1840, it amounted to
155j 100,809 pounds; in 1844, the exports amounted to
$12,363.
Rice, was first cultivated in South Carolina, in 1694, since
when its culture has very extensively increased ; in 1840, it
amounted to 80,841,422 pounds, and in 1845, the exports
amounted in value to $2,160,456. The whole exports of
domestic produce from the United States, in 1845, was
$99,299,776.
- The MANUFACTURES of the United States, though not equal
to its agriculture or commerce, and of recent origin, are ra-
pidly acquiring an immense importance. A great amount
of capita] is. now invested in cott(Hi and iron manufactures,
glass, coal, &c., and new improvements by the aid of steam
are constantly being made to the machinery, by which goods
can now be made cheap enough almost to compete with any
part of the world. The census of 1840, gives some valuable
satistics in relation to manufactures. There were 1240 cot-
ton factories, with 2,284.631 spindles, which produced goods
to the amount of $:46.350,453 ; in 1844, there were exported
cotton goods to the amount of $2,898,780; of wollen manu-
factures, goods were produced lo the amount of $20,696,999,
principally of wool from our own sheep, of which there were
VIEW OP THE UNITED STATES.
27
19,311,374. Extensive manufactories of paper of every
kind, leather in all its branches, straw bonnets, carriages and
wagons, various kinds of machinery, &c., &c., employ vast
numbers of operatives, the details of which our limits will
not permit of.
The United States are richly supplied with valuable
MINERALS 3 although the mines are very profitable, they are
not yet worked to an extent worthy of their great import-
ance. Gold, iron find lead, are extensively diffused ; coal
aud salt exist in abundance ; and valuable building mate-
rials, as marble, freestone and granite, are very plentiful.
Gold has been procured chiefly from North Carolina, Vir-
ginia, and Georgia, and mostly from wat^hings ; but various
companies are now successfully engaged in scientific mining.
Iron, the most useful of metals, is abundantly distributed
throughout the country, and forms one of the great staples,
employing in its manufacture many thousand operatives;
Pennsylvania atone employing about 400,000 persons, di-
rectly in the business. The following statistics for 1845,
will show the amount of trade carried on in the United
States. There are 540 blast furnaces, yielding 486,000 tons
pig iron, per annum ; 950 bloomeries, forges, rolling and
slitting mills, and yielding 291,600 tons of bar, hoops, &c.
Blooms, 30,000 tons ; castings, machinery, stove plates, &c.,
121,500 tons; which at their present market value, would
amount to $33,940,500. The quantity imported was 92,257
tons, worth $41,734,610.
In 1846, there were in Pennsylvania alone, 34 anthracite
furnaces, all of which are in blast except 7. Those in blast
are capable of turning out 1300 tons of iron per week, or
67,600 tons per annum. Those erecting, and preparing to
be put in blast, can produce 500 tons per week, or 26,000
tons per annum — making the product of the whole 1800 tons
per week, or 93,600 tons per annum. The quantity of coal
28
VIEW OP THE UNITED STATES.
'
f
required to smelt a ton of iron, upon the average, is 2^ tons,
which \pould make a weekly consumption of 45,000 tons
of coal, amounting to 234,000 tons per annum, in these
works, merely to run the ore into pig metal.
The Lead mines of the United States are extremely pro-
ductive, and are now beginning to be worked in a proper man-
ner. The principal mines are situated in Missouri, between
the Gasconade and the Mississippi, and in Wisconsin Terri-
tory and Illinois, between the Wisconsin and Mississippi
rivers. The product of the Missouri mines in 1840, was
5,295,455 pounds; of the Illinois mines, 8,755,000 pounds;
and of the Wisconsin mines, 15,129,350 pounds.
Salt is chiefly made from the brine springs, which are
bountifully distributed, particularly in the great Western
Valley. * ■>>«'
.M Coal, one of the most abundant minerals in the United
States, is now becoming much more used than formerly. It
is found of two kinds, the anthracite and bituminous. The
former is found and largely mined in Pennsylvania, in three
distinct beds, two of which lie between the Lehigh and Sus-
quehanna, and the head-waters of the Schuylkill and the
North Bmnch of the Susquehanna ; the third is on l^oth sides
of the Lackawanna, and of the North Branch of the Sus-
quehanna. An exceedingly interesting trip to view the ope-
rations of mining, can be made to Pottsville, occupying only
a few days. In 1845, there were sent to market from the
different regions, 2,021,674 tons, the Schuylkill region fur-
nishing more than one half. Since the trade commenced in
1820 up to the beginning of 1846, the supply from all sources
amounted to 13,467,302 tons; the Schuylkill region furnish-
ing 7,392,744 tons. The population of this country has kept
pace with this prosperity ; in five years the increase has been
fifty per cent ; the coal trade has nearly doubled.
The COMMERCE of the United States has increased with
'im
W"
VIEWOF THE UNITED STATES. 29
rapid strides, and they have already become the second
commercial power in the world. Every part of the world is
visited by American merchants, and they are every where
known as the most enterprising and intelligent set of busi-
ness men. The exports consist chiefly of agriculture, pro-
duce, naval stores, lumber, &c. American manufactures
are now exported in larger quantities, and meet with a
readier market than formerly. The shipping by which the
trade of the country is carried on, is chiefly American, ship-
building forming an extensive branch of national industry.
The shipping interest has been protected by discriminating
duties on foreign tonnage, and by the entire exclusion of
foreign vessels from the coasting trade. The whole amount
of the shipping in 1845, was 2,426, 1 13 tons. A large amount
of shipping is employed in the whale, cod, and mackerel
fisheries, producing about $15,000,000 annually. There
were built in 1845, 1038 vessels, with a total tonnage of
146,018.
The following is a table of the imports and exports of the
United States, during the year 1845.
The aggregate imports of foreign merchandise for the year,
were as follows : —
Free of duty, $22,147,840 ' . ■
Paying duty, 95,106,724 ^
$ 1 1 7,254,564
Of which were re-exported :
Free of duty, $10, 175,099
Paying duty, 5,171,731 '
$15,346,830
The exports for the year were :
Domestic produce, &c., .. $99,299,776
Foreign, as above, 15,346,830
$114,046,606
c2
1^
'«??■
30 V I E W OF T HE UNIT E D ST ATE S.
» The following table will show the value of the principal
articles of export : —
Cotton, $51,739,643 *'
Tobacco Leaf, 7,469,819
Rice, 2,160,456
Flour, 5,398,593 ^~
Pork, hogs lard, &c., 2,991,284 ^
Beef, cattle, hides, &c., 1,926,809
Butter and cheese, 878,865
Skins and fnis, 1,248,355
Fish, 1,012,007
Wool and manufactures of 3,099,455
Manufactures, 10,329,701
Specie and bullion, 8,606,495
TONNAGE.
Cleared. Entered.
American vessels, tons, ..2,053,977 2,035,486
Foreign vessels, 930,275 910,563
2,984,252 2,946,049
The great works for internal improvement, form an
important feature in the United States. The natural interior
water communications have already been alluded to; no
part of the world presents such an extensive river commerce.
Steam vessels were first introduced in America ; and steam-
boats, some of them nearly 400 ft. long, may be found on
all the rivers, &c. Individuals and states have not been
slow in improving the great natural advantages, and the
result is a grand chain of interior communications, connect-
ing the most distant points of the country with each other,
and affording cheap and speedy means of communication ;
•which, if it may have impoverished individuals, and have
burthened some states with heavy debts, has still been of
-'"^'■
*. r.
:%-
VIEWOPTHEUNITEDSTATES. 31
immense advantage to the country at large. The banking
system of the country is now in a sound state, business is
prosperous, and numerous internal improvements which
have been left in an unfinished state, are now being carried
through.
There were in 1845, 104 Railroads in the United States,
measuring in the aggregate, 4,624 miles, and built at a cost
of over 130 millions of dollars. The following is a list of the
roads which have cost over two millions, viz :
'\.\^.iw^ .' ../ ^'^.. Miles. Cost.
Boston and Worcester, 44 . , . $2,914,078
- Western (Mass.) 117. . . .6,186,202
Stonington, 48 2,600,000
Camden and Amboy, 60
N. Brunswick Branch. 28 > 3,200,000 '
Trenton do., 8 )
New Jersey, 34 2,000,000
Philadelphia and Baltimore, 93 4,400,000
- Baltimore and Ohio, 188 ... . 7,623.600 "
^ South Carolina, 136 ) ^ ^„, ,,«
' > 5,671,452
Columbia Branch, 60 ^ '
Central, Ga., 190. .. .2,581,723
/ Eastern, 54. .. .2,388,631
Norwich and Worcester, 66 2,170,366
** Utica and Schenectady, 78 2,168,165
" Columbia, Pa., 82. . . .4,204,969
Reading, 94. . . .9,457,670
Baltimore and Susquehanna,. .... 58, . . .3,000,000
Georgia, *. . . . 172. . . .3,000,000
In New Jersey there are seven railroads, running in the
whole 191 miles, and their aggregate cost was $6,600,000.
The whole length of Canal navigation is about four thou-
sand miles, all of which have mostly been executed in the
last twenty-five years. These great works have already
IP, VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES.
given fresh life to manufactures, internal trade, and agricul-
ture, and developed the mining industry of the country.
Many of the states are intersected by extensive lines of
turnpike roads; and many very fine bridges are constructed
across the principal streams. The great National road from
Cumberland across the AUeghanies, through Wheeling,
Columbus, Indianapolis, and Yandalia, to St. Louis, is a
splendid piece of road. j . . •
-,:- ^. RELIGION AND EDUCATION.
The establishment of Religion by law is forbidden by the
constitution of the United States, but every person who does
not interrupt the peace of society is protected in the free ex-
ercise of his religion. The voluntary principle, has been
found to be more efficient than any legal enactment for the
support of religious institutions ; and the Americans are sen-
sible of the fact, that the stability and existence of a free
government depends upon the prosperity of religious institu-
tions, and their moral influence upon the principles and habits
of the people. Dr. Baird, in his '' Religion in America," has
estimated that there is annually raiised $5,500,000 for the
support of the evangelical ministry, and that there is one
preacher to every 800 souls. There, were in 1845, about
30,000 churches of all denominations, 32,543 ministers and
3,384,744 communicants; of which the Methodists were
the most numerous^ and next the Baptists, Presbyterians,
and then Episcopalians. The number of benevolent, chari-
table, educational, religious, and other humane societies, is
nowhere greater than in this country.
The subject of Education has excited much attention in all
the states, most of ^hich have applied certain lands or an-
nual amon«^ts for ihe maintenance of public schools, where
any one can enjoy the benefits gratuitously. The most pro-
I V
J ^,..
t'^
:'*^
>^,'J15J^:^' TjR
^
VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES.
33
",*■
tninent in the cause of education are the New England
states, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Ohio, &c.
Some of the collegiate institutions are of very ancient date ;
Cambridge college, now Harvard university, was founded in
1638 ; Yale college at New Haven, in 1700 ; college of New
Jersey at Princeton, in 1746j Brown university. Providence,
in 1764 J Dartmouth college, at Hanover, N. H., in 1769;
university of North Carolina, in 1789; Bowdoin college at
Brunswick, Me., in 1794. In 1845, there were 108 colleges,
29 medical colleges and schools; 34 theological schools;
10 law schools; and about 50,000 common and primary
schools. "'■''
The largest Libraries in the United States, are Harvard
university, containing 68,500 vols. ; Philadelphia library,
50,000; Boston AtheneBum, nearly 35,000; Yale college,
34,500 ; Georgetown college, 25,000 ; Bowdoin college, 24,-
860 ; New York society library, 25,000 ; library of Congress,
nearly 25,000 ; Brown university, 20,000, &c.
In no other country does the mass of the population read
so much, and are the books furnished at so cheap a rate.
Many American names occupy places in the literary world,
and many more bid fair to stand prominent. Numerous
monthly and quarterly journals are liberally supported, and
the best English periodicals are republished ; in addition
to which, there are 1555 newspapers and periodicals pub-
lished in the United States, while there are but 1899 in all
the world besides !
Many institutions for the promotion of the Fine Arts, are in
successful operation ; the names of Copley, West, Stuart,
Newton, AUston, and Leslie, adorn the annals of American
art.
The Banking Institutions of the United States, are joint
stock companies, incorporated by the respective states with
fixed capitals ; their bills form the principal circulating me-
3
34
VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES.
(lium of the country. There were in J 845, 707 banks, with
an aggregate capital of $206,045,969 ;
Loanii, $288,617,131 Circulation, $89,608,711
Specie, 44,241,242 Deposits, 88,020,646
S
#
^
«
^ HISTORY.
The United States were first colonised in 1607, by the
English settling in Virginia. All the colonies were a portion
of the British empire, and the settlers were continually en-
gaged in wars with the Indian tribes, and afterwards with
the mother country against the French. Between 167C and
1680, Nathaniel Bacon, and many colonists of Virgiria^ re-
belled and ^urnt Jamestown. The cause of the revolt was
the laying of duties by Parliament on the products of foreign
colonies imported into Virginia. The navigation act, which
imposed restrictions on foreign ships coming to the American
colonies, also created much discontent. These were the first
acts that led to the American principle of -' i. ) taxation with-
out representation ;" and the principle of union began to be
developed. An anti-stamp act Congress was held in New
York, in 1765. The colonists resolving to use no goods of
British manufacture, the stamp act was repealed by Parlia-
ment. In 1770, a crowd of people in Boston threw stones at
the military, who fired and killed three persons, an event
which added much to the now growing excitement. In 1773,
the tea tax was agitated in Boston and all the colonies,
and Lord North reduced the duty from one shilling, to three
pence per pound. The objection still existed, as it was not
the amount, but the principle of being taxed by the home
Parliament, without being represented therein. A large
party of men disguised as Indians, boarded the ships lying at
the Boston wharf, and threw the tea into the harbour. Par-
liament struck Boston from the list of ports; the breach
; "■ ^^i*j;p52
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VIEW OF THE UNITED STATE I.
35
widened — " passive obedience" being the maxim of Parlia-
ment ; and " Freedom, and no taxation without representa-
tion," that of the colonists. General Gage was sent from
England with a large force to overawe Boston. The colonists
elected a Congress, with John Hancock as president ; this
body memorialised the home government, but in vain, though
supported by Lord Chatham, Burke, and others. Patrick
Henry kindled the flame of National Independence in Vir-
ginia. In April, 1775, General Gage sent to seize some
military stores at Concord. The militia refused to give them
up, were fired upon and several killed, at Lexington. After
destroying the stores, the troops retired to Boston, but many
were killed on the road by the militia, from behind walls,
fences, &c. The people were now thoroughly aroused, and
the cry every where was, " Independence or Death." On
the 10th of May, Congress assembled at Philadelphia, and
fortunately for the destinies of the country elected General
George Wai^hington, Commander-in-chief of the American
forces. The Commander-in-chief joined the camp at Cam-
bridge, on the 2d of July ; and it was to this truly great man,
together with the wisdom and firmness of Congress, the
bravery of the people, and the assistance of the French, that
America owes her independence.
On the 4th of July, 1776, Congress, at Philadelphia, de-
clared, in a document a model for style, that the United
States of America were " Free, sovereign, and independent."
But, although the Americans through their representatives,
had declared themselves a free people, it was not until they
had fought a series of battles, distinguished for the indomi-
table bravery and courage shown, that they really possessed
that right.
Provisional articles of peace, acknowledging the indepen-
dence of the United States, were signed in Paris, November
30th, 1782, by Adams, Franklin, and Jay, on the part of the
^ J).
36
VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES.
United States : and Mr. Fitzherbert and Mr. Oswald on the
part of Great Britain. The definitive treaty was signed Sep-
tember 30lh, 1783.
The government which continued under the articles of
confederation until 1788, was found to be unequal to the
wants of the people, and inefficient in power. In May, 1787,
delegates from the several states assembled at Philadelphia ;
and, after a debate of four months, adopted the present con-
stitution, provided that the ratification of nine states could
be had. It was warmly debated by the state conventions,
but finally adopted by all. Great demonstrations of joy were
made upon the accession of each state. The constitution
was finally ratified by Congress, July 14tli, 1788. The elec-
tors met in February, 1789, and unanimously chose Gkorge
Washington President, and John Adams Vice-President.
Many foreigners have supposed that before this country
shall have have attained its population of 100 millions,
that it would be divided into several separate nations ; but
after seventy years' trial of the constitution and forms of
government, it is constantly gaining strength, and striking
deeper into the sentiments of the people.
General Washington, died at Mount Vernon, December
14th, 1799, of an inflammation of the throat, aged 68 years.
The nation every where mourned for him as for a father,
and his memory will be revered for ever by his country-
men. - - yf .
In 1803, Lousiana was purchased of the French for Sl5,-
000,000; and in 1821, Florida was ceded to the United States
by Spain, in compensation for spoliations on American com-
merce, for $5,000,000.
In 1801 and "2, the Pacha of Tripoli demanded tribute for
American ships, to secure them from piracy. This was re-
fused; the American consuls were dismissed, and several
United Stales ships taken. War was deelared, which lasted
*;vk.
t^"'^
VIEW OP THE UNITED STATES.
37
if
■00
until 1805, the Tripolitans suffering severe defeats. A treaty
wusthen made, the United States paying $60,000 ransom for
American prisoners.
In 1806 and '7 Napoleon passed the Berlin and Milan de-
crees, the effect of which was to prevent the United States
from trading with Great Britain. The British government,
in return, passed orders to prevent the United States from
trading with France and her allies. Thus American vessels
were searched, and confiscated by the navies of both coun-
tries. In 1807, the United States frigate Chesapeake, Com-
modore Barron, refusing to permit a search, was fired into
by the British ship Leopard, Admiral Berkeley, and four men
were surrendered, for which Commodore Barron was tried,
and suspended for five years. An embargo was issued in all
the American ports against British ships, but taken off in
1809, and a non-intercour.se act with France and England
passed in its Ptead. In 1808 the African slave-trade was
abolished. In 18 1 1, the Indian nations under Tecumseh and
his brother, "the Prophet," made war upon the United
States. They were defeated with great slaughter, by Gen.
Harrison, at Tippecanoe. In 1811, an action took place be-
the United States ship President, and the Little Belt, a British
vessel; the latter was much damaged. Napoleon revoked
the decrees and the United States repealed the non-inter-
course act. ' '
On the 4th of June, 1812, war was declared with Great
Britain by the American Congress, by a vote in the House of
Representatives of 79 to 49 ; and in the Senate by a vote of
19 to 13. This war continued with various success, but
most advantageously for America, until peace was concluded
at Ghent, December 24lh, 1814.
In 1815, the Algerines having demanded tribute for the
privilege of trading in the Mediterranean, and seized several
American vessels, Commodore Decatur was despatched with
D
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88
VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES.
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lu
an expedition against them. He captured an Algerine frigate
of 44 guns, a brig of war, procured the freedom of the Ameri-
cans, and silenced their demands. In 1816, a national bank
was established, with a capital of -$35,000,000. In 1818,
the Seminole and Creek Indians made war on the United
States, but were defeated by General Jackson. In 1832, a
bill for the recharter of the Bank of the United States passed
Congress, and was vetoed by President Jackson ; there not
being a two-thirds majority, it was lost. In 1833, a tariff
law, agreed upon by all parties, with protecting duties on
imports, was passed. In 1832, the Indians again, broke out,
under Black Hawk, but were soon defeated. In 1835, in
consequence of the refusal of the Seminole Indians to leave
Florida and emigrate to the west, a war was commenced
against them ; they were defeated, and at the present time,
1846, nearly all have emigrated.
In May 1837, the United States Bank and others suspended
specie payments, thus deranging monetary affairs. In 1837,
some Canadians and Americans crossed the lines to assist in
overturning the British government, they were captured, and
some were executed and others transported. A body of per-
sons having collected on Navy Island, who were about to as-
sist in the insurrectionary movement, a party of British
crossed over in the night, and set fire to their steamboat, by
which one or two citizens' lives were lost. A man by the
name of M'Leod was arrested in New York, as having as-
sisted in the burning, and was tried in the New York court.
But Great Britain having taken the responsibility upon itself,
demanded his restoration, which was refused. After much
diplomatic correspondence, the affair was amicably settled
by the acquittal of M'Leod. In 1842, a treaty was signed,
settling the N. E. Boundary, and providing for the reciprocal
giving up of fugitives, &c. A new and high tariff, this year
went into operation. In 1844, the Hon. Caleb Cushing nego-
VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES.
39
tiated a treaty of commerce with China, by which import-
ant advantages were gained. In 1845, Congress passed re-
solutions annexing Texas to the United States, which were
ratified by the Texan Congress, and it now forms the 28th
state ; the various officers for its government have been ap-
pointed. In May 1846, war was declared against Mexico,
and large bodies of troops were sent to that country. Gen.
Z. P. Taylor, who commanded, distinguished himself in sev-
eral severe battles, and was made Major-general. '■%
CIVIL AND SOCIAL STATE. " * '
The United States if they continue to increase in the pre-
sent ratio will in the course of a century have a population
of 160,000,000, and still being only half as populous as Bri-
tain or France will leave ample scope for further increase.
If they continue united they will then become the greatest
nation in the world, and the most powerful of the states of
Europe would rank as secondary to them.
The population exclusive of the aboriginal race, consists
of three classes ; whites, free coloured persons, and slaves ;
the comparative number of each in 1840, when the popula-
tion was 17,068,666, was; whites 14,189,108, free coloured
386,245, slaves 2,487,213. Of the white population, although
part of the body is collected from various nations of Europe,
have all a strong national feeling; emigrants soon lose their
national peculiarities and character, by intermarriages and a
common education, and embrace the cause of their adopted
country with almost as much warmth and zeal, as the natives
of the soil.
The black population, including not only the negroes but
the mulatto breeds, form rather more than one sixth of the
whole population of the country. In some states the free
blacks are admitted to political privileges, but the number
■m^'
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40
VIEW OP THE UNITED STATES.
of such is but few ; in some, their testimony is not admitted
against a white man, and they are subject to several other
civil disabilities. Slavery has been abolished in the Eastern
states and has never been permitted in the Noithwestem
states. By a law of the U. S. government passed in 1808,
the importation of slaves into the country was prohibited, and
it is believed that the number since clandestinely introduced
has been very small. Of the 28 states now forming the re-
public slavery exists hi only about 13, principally in the
southern and some few of the middle and western states. To
the foreigner who comes imbued with some of the ideas of
the bad treatment which this part of the population are said
to suffer, he will be agreeably surprised to find a far different
state of the case ; the blacks generally ^vorking cheerfully,
are well taken care of, and enjoying many privileges ; in fact
the majority of them if asked the question, would prefer
their present condition.
The Americans have lost none of the eminently humane
traits of their English ancestors, to which the numerous be-
nevolent, charitable, educational, moral, and religious socie-
ties in the United States, bear ample testimony.
The United States which, comparatively, were but a few
years since thinly populated and partially cultivated, are now
well settled and in a high state of cultivation, with numerous
splendid cities and towns, connected with each other by the
most extensive internal means of communication in the world.
The Americans have built up a social system pre-eminently
calculated to promote the happiness and moral improvement
of mankind ; the cheapness and efficiency of their govern-
ment, the universality of education, the omnipresence of the
periodical press, the high feeling of self respect which exists
in the very humblest classes, and the boundless enterprise
which pervades the whole society, will always combine to
keep their country in the first rank.
'.
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NEW YOKK.
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Tins, the principal city of the State of New York, is in
population, wealth, and commerce, the largest city in the
United States. It has fine harbours, a central position, great
natural facilities for inland communication, and other ad-
vantages which will always enable it to maintain its prece-
dence. It is 86 m. N. E. from Philadelphia, 210 m. S.
W. Boston, 225 m. N. E. Washington, 670 m. N. E. Charles-
ton, 146 m. S. of Albany, 372 m. S. of Montreal, 1370 m. N.
of New Orleans, and is in 40° 42' 40" N. lat., and 74° 1' 8"
W. long, from Greenwich, and 3° 0' 16" E. long, from Wash-
ington. V ' . •'- ^;\ %» . .' . 1/.
The city is situated on the southern extremity of Man-
hattan Island, at the confluence of the Hudson or North, and
East rivers. The city and county of New York have the
same limits, comprising the whole of Manhattan island,
which is 13i m. in length, and 2 m. in its greatest breadth,
containing about 14,000 acres. It is connected with the
main land on the N. side by 3 bridges, Harlem, Macomb's,
and King's, crossing the Harlem river; with Long Island by
4 ferries to Brooklyn, and 3 to Williamsburg; with New
Jersey by 2 ferries to Jersey City, and 3 to Hoboken ; there
are also 2 ferries to Staten Island, and 1 to Hellgate.
New York has two harbours, the inner of which, 25 m. in
circumference, is spacious and safe, extending 8 m. from the
narrows to the city, and farther up the North and East
rivers, bringing the largest vessels to its wharves. The
outer harbour extends from the narrows to Sandy Hook,
18 m. from the city. Each harbour is strongly defended by
several forts, which together with this excellence, and other
41 D 2
42
NEW YORK CITY.
great natural advantages have combined to render it not
only the metropolis of the United States, but the second
commercial city on the globe.
That part of the city which is built, extends over 3 m.
on each river, and the compact part has a circumference
of over 9 m. Most of the streets are very crooked, and
some, which were very narrow, have been widened at
great expense. The modern built or N. portion laid out by
Gov. Morris, De Witt Clinton, and others, exhibits a very
regular and beautiful appearance. ',; ' ;
Broadway, the principal street, is 80 ft. wide, and runs
perfectly straight through the centre of the city for 2i m.,
commencing at the Battery at the S. end. It is well built,
with many fine dwellings, and the largest retail stores. It
is the great promenade of the city for the gay and fashion-
able. The Bowery is about two-thirds the length of Broad-
wa)?, running parallel with it, and is much wider. Pearl st.j
between Broadway and the East river, is in a crescent form,
over a mile long, and is the principal seat of the wholesale
dry-goods, and hardware business, which has also extended
into Cedar, Pine, and other near streets. Front, Water, and
Soiith sts., between Pearl and the East river, are occupied
chiefly by wholesale grocers, commission and shipping mer-
chants, &c. Wall s^ which commences at Broadway opposite
to Trinity church, extends to the East river, and is occupied
chiefly by banks, insurance, newspaper, and brokers' offices.
Chatham st. is the great thoroughfare .connecting the Bowery
with Broadway and Nassau st. £05^ Broadway, Henry, Madi-
son and Monroe sts., are in the N. £. part of the city, and
are beautifully built. Canal st., a wide street., half a mile
N. of the City Hall, crosses Broadway at right angles, and
is the centre of a great retail business. Greenwich and
Hudson sts. are both beautiful and wide streets, running
parallel with the Hudson river, the whole extent of the city.
'^
PUBLIC SQUARES.
43
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Tho principal shipping business is transacted on the East
river front, although there are many wharves on the North
river. Vessels arrive from and depart to most of the com-
mercial nations of the globe. The line of steamships to
Liverpool, consists of the Great Western, and the mammoth
Great Britain. There are also packet lines of ships of the
largest class, with elegant accommodations, which sail for
Liverpool every five days, for London every ten days, for
Havre every eight days ; and other lines for the various ports
in the United States.
The city has several handsome squares, among which
are ; the BcUtery, a superb promenade ground in the form of
a crescent at the S. end containing eleven acres. It is
handsomely laid out, at an expense of $150,000, and affords
a fine view of the bay and harbour, with the islands and for-
tifications, and the surrounding shores. In the hottest part
of summer, the air here is delightfully cooled by the ocean
breezes. Castle Garden connected with it by a bridge, is
capable of holding ten thousand persons.
The Bowling Green, is a small enclosure at the S. end
of Broadway, so called from having been used as a bowling
alley by the British, during the Revolution. It is now orna-
mented by a handsome fountain.
The Park is a triangular area of about ten acres, on Broad-
way, in the centre of the S. portion of the city. It contains
the City Hall, and other public buildings, and is handsomely
laid out. The fountain, supplied by the Croton, is the largest
in the city, and is so arranged that various sets of jets can
be played at different times ; the water when thrown up in
a single body, ascends to the height of about 70 ft., falling
into the basin 100 ft. in diameter.
St. John's Park, or Hudson Square, in the W, part of the city,
belongs to Trinity church, and is the most beautiful in the city.
It has a fountain, and numerous beds of handsome flowers.
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44
NEW YORK CITY.
Washington Square, in the upper part of the city, between
4th St. and Waverley place, is also a beautiful spot, sur-
rounded by handsome dwellings; on one side are the Uni-
versity, and a splendid church.
Union Place is an oval square, on Broadway above 14th
St., and contains a handsome fountain. The other public
squares are Tompkins, Madison, Hamilton, Bellevue, and
Stuyvesant squares. . > -
THE CITY HALL,
Formerly considered one of the finest buildings in the
United States, stands in the middle of the Park, and consists
of a main building with wings, ornamented with columns
and pilasters of the Ionic, Corinthian, and composite orders.
The front and ends are of white marble, and the rear of
brown freestone. It is 216 ft. long by 105 ft. wide, com-
pleted in 1812, at a cost of $538,734. Over the centre is a
fine cupola, containing the town clock, and in the rear is a
smaller one containing the alarm bell, weighing 6,910 lbs.,
with a tongue 6 ft. long ; it is probably the largest bell in
the United States. There are four entrances to the building.
It contains the Governor's room, in which there are some
very fine portraits ; the Council's hall, embellished by fine
portraits, and containing the chair used by Washington,
when President of the first Congress j and the Civil court,
Mayor's, Aldermen's rooms, and other public offices. Ac-
cess to the roof or any of the rooms is readily obtained, by
applying at the keeper's door ; it is well worth a visit.
The Hdl of Records is to the E. of the City Hall.
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THE HALL OF JUSTICE,
Vulgarly called " the Tombs," occupies the lot of ground
between Centre and Elm, and Leonard and Franklin sts. It
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EXCHANGE AND CUSTOM HOUSE.
4S
is built of light granite, in the massive Egyptian style, and
finished in 1838. It is 253 ft. long by 200 ft. wide, occu-
pying the four sides of a hollow square, with a centre buikU
ing in the area. The criminal courts hold their sessions here.
Visiters are admitted to the male or female prisons, between
10 A. M. and 2 P. M.
THE merchants' EXCHANGE,
Erected on the site of the former one, which was destroyed
in the great fire of 1835, is the largest and most costly edifice
in the city. It occupies the space of ground between Wall,
William, Exchange, and Hanover streets. It is fire-proof,
built in the most substantial form of dark blue Quincy granite,
and is 200 ft. long, 171 to 144 ft. wide, 77 ft. high to the top
of the cornice, and 121 ft. to the top of the dome. The
front on Wall street has a recessed portico of 18 massive
and beautifully wrought Ionic columns, 38 ft. high, and 4 ft.
4 in. in diameter, each formed from a solid block of granite,
weighing 45 tons, said to be next to the largest in the world,
and costing $3,000 each. The exchange room or rotunda, a
magnificent apartment, in the centre of the building, is 100 ft.
in diameter, surmounted with a dome of solid masonry 80 ft.
in diameter, supported in part by 8 Corinthian columns of
Italian marble, 41 ft. high, and lighted by a skylight 25 ft.
in diameter. The whole cost of the building and ground
was $1,800,000. The Chamber of Commerce and Board of
Brokers meet here, and there is also an extensive reading
room.
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THE CUSTOM HOUSE,
At the corner of Wall and Nassau streets, is a splendid build-
ing, modelled after and nearly of the same size as the Par-
thenon at Athens. It is built entirely of marble, perfectly
40
NEW YORK CITY.
fire-proof, and occupies the site of the old Federal Hall, in
which General Washin;:fton was inaugurated in 1789. It is
200 ft. long, 90 wide, and 80 ft. in height ; has two fronts, tho
S. on Wall street, the N. on Pine street, each having a
portico of 8 Doric colnmns, 32 ft. high 3 on each side are
13 pilasters in keeping with the porticoes. The business hall
is a splendid circular room in the centre of the building, 80
ft. in diameter, with a dome, supported by 16 beautiful Co-
rinthian columns, 30 ft. in height. The ceilings of the apart-
ments are arched, and richly ornamented with stucco ; tho
roof is entirely of marble. The building is two stories high
above the basement, and was finished in 1841, at a cost of
$950,000, and including the ground, $1,175,000. The num-
ber of officers employed is 354, of whom nearly two hundred
are inspectors. The business hours are from 10 A. M. to
3 P.M.
THE POST-OFFICE,
Is now located fh what was formerly the Middle Dutch
Church, situated in Nassau st., between Cedar and Liberty
ets. The building, which is over 150 years old, has under-
gone many changes since its erection, having been used by
the British during the revolutionary war, as a riding school,
a prison, and a hospital, and now for its present purpose. Its
internal arrangements are very convenient ; the postmaster
is able to see from his room all that transpires in the building.
The ofRce hours are from 8 A. M. to 7 P. M. ; and, on Sun-
days, from 9 to 10 A. M. and from 12i to 1^ P. M.
LITERARY INSTITUTIONS.
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, The City University, fronting Washington Square, be-
tween Washington Place and Waverley Place, is a noble
edifice in the English collegiate style, finished in 1836. It
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LITERARY INSTITUTIONS.
'41^
is built of white marble, with a centre building with wings,
flanked by towers, one rising on each of the four corners of
the edifice. It is 180 ft. long and 100 ft. wide, and has a
commanding appearance, especially when seen from the
square opposite- The institution was founded in 1831, and
has a president and 1 1 professors ', there is attached to it,
a medical department and a grammar school, the whole
containing over 700 students, a valuable library, and philo-
sophical apparatus. The chapel open for worship on Sun-
days is a most beautiful one of the kind.
The Columbia College is the oldest and best endowed in
the city. It is situated on a beautiful square between Cha-
pel, Church, and Murray sts. ; is 200 ft. long and 50 ft. wide,
with wings at each end. It has a president and 10 profes-
sors, 1107 alumni, 100 students, and 15,000 volumes in its li-
braries, with a museum, philosophical and chemical apparatus.
The General Theological Seminary of the Episcopal
Church, corner of 9th avenue and 20th street, consists of two
handsome stone buildings. It was founded in 1819, has 5
professors, 75 students, and a library of nearly ip,000 vols.
The Board of Trustees consist of all the bishops, and one
trustee from each diocese in the United States.
The New York Theological Seminary, near the Univer-
sity, was organized in 1836, has 6 professors, 104 students,
and a library of over 16,000 vols.
The Public School Society, incorporated in 1805, has 18
schools with their departments, and 50 primary schools, con-
taining over 20,000 scholars. There are also numerous pub-
lic district schools. The Rutgers Female Institute in Maiden
St., has nearly 500 scholars. The Mechanics^ School, in Crosby
St., has 550 scholars. The Prot. Episcopal School, is also a
flourishing institution. . w^: ' ,- * » r^ ^^^-
The New York Society Library, the oldest literary as-
sociation, was founded in 1754. It has a beautiful building
TTr^
48
NEW YORK CITY.
I -'
of brown freestone, in the Ionic style, erected at an expense
of $120,000. It fronts on Broadway at the corner of Leonard '
St., and contains over 40,000 vols., to which large additions
are annually made. Strangers are admitted whtn introduced
by a member, and books are loaned on leaving a deposit. In
addition to the library and reading rooms, there are rooms
for study and reference, for conversation, and for lectures.
The Mercantile Library Association, in Clinton Hall, in
Beekman, corner of Nassau st., possesses a library of 23,000
vols., a reading room, lecture room, and a cabinet of minerals.
The New York Historical Society, formed in 1804, is
located in the University, and possesses a library of 12,000
vols., and a collection of coins and minerals.
Clinton Hall Association, was founded in 1830, for the
promotion of literature, science, and the arts, and possesses
a large hall in Beekman, corner of Nassau st.
The Lyceum of Natural History have a room in the Uni-
versity Medical School ; it is composed of scientific men, and
possesses a large library, cabinet of minerals, shells, plants,
and other specimens in natural history.
The Apprentices' Library, in Crosby St., contains 12.000
vols., read by 1800 apprentices.
The American Institute, for the encouragement of Ame-
rican industry, has a library of 5000 vols., situated in the
building in the rear of the City Hall. It holds annual exhibi-
tions of specimensof American ingenuity and industry, which
are very interesting. .
The other miscellaneous institutions are the Law Institute
in the City Hall, with a library of 3500 vols. ; the Apollo
Association of fine arts j the Sacred Music Society ; the Cham-
ber of Commerce ; the Board of Trade. &c., &c.
The rooms of the Am£rican Art Union, 322 Broadway,
near Pearl st. ; the rooms of the National Academy of Design^
Broadway, corner of Leonard St., which has also annual ex-
'^
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PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.
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hibitions during April, May, and June j the New York Gal-
lery of Fine Arts, in the Rotunda in the Park, &c., are well
worth visiting.
The Arsenal, in Centre St., next to the city prison, occu-
pies the whole square, and generally contains about 50,000
stand of arras beautifully arranged, cannon, ammunition, and
interesting trophies taken from the English.
BENEVOLENT AND MEDICAL INSTITUTIONS. '
The New York Hospital, in Broadway, between Duane
and Anthony sts., has three large buildings, capable of ac-
commodating 300 patients, and was founded in 1771. It
has a branch institution for the insane, near the Blooming-
dale road, about 7 m. from the city; this consists of a main
building 210 ft. long, and 60 ft. wide, and two smaller build-
ings. It is beautifully situated on elevated ground, hand-
somely laid out.
The Institution for the Deaf and Du.\ib, situated on
50th St., near 4th avenue, has a building 110 ft. long, and
60 ft. wide, and accommodates 160 patients; it has a prin-
cipal and 8 professors.
The Institution for the Blind, on 9th avenue, near
33d street, is an imposing structure of granite in the Gothic
style, and generally contains about 60 pupils. ' *'-
The Orphan Asylum, situated at Bloomingdale, near
80th St., about 5 m. from the city, is beautifully situated, over-
looking the Hudson. It is a handsome building of stone, in
imitation of yellow marble.
The University Medical School, in Broadway above
Bleecker St., has a splendid granite edifice, with a recessed
portico of 4 columns, and contains lecture rooms, a library,
and a valuable museum.
The College of Physicians and Surgeons, in Crosby st.
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NEW YORK CITY.
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near Spring st. was founded in 1807, has 8 professors, a li-
brary of over 1000 vols., and an anatomical museum.
The State Hospital of New York, chartered in 1839, have
lately erected a iuitable buildii x on the lot of ground be-
tWf'^Ti 5th and 6th avenues, and 42d and 43d sts.
.. iiere are two Dispensaries in the chy. On Staten Island
are, the Marine Hospital under the direction of the Health
Commissioners, the Seamen's Retreat, also a state institution, —
and, the Sailors^ Snug Harbour, on the N. side of the island,
founded by the late Capt. Randall. The U. S. Naval Hospi-
tal is at Brooklyn, near the Navy Yard. At Bellevue on tho
East r. are several public buildings, as the the New Alms-
house and Hospital, — the House of Refuge for juvenile delin-
quents ; and, a Penitentiary for female convicts. An Asylum
for the Insane Poor has been recently erected on Blackwell's
island, where there is also a prison for male convicts.
Besides the above there are numerous other charitable and
benevolent institutions, as also numerous religious associa-
tions.
CHURCHES.
.::?j-M
■.--:.:^^- I EM.
There are 217 Churches In New York, many of which pos-
sess splendid edifices. The most magnificent is —
Trinity Church, Episcopal, one of the finest buildings in
the city, and most complete Ecclesiastical Gothic structure
in the U. States. It is situated on Broadway, at the head of
Wall St., built of a light brown freestone, beautifully orna-
mented. It was commenced in 1841, finished, and conse-
crated on Ascension day 1846, and is 192 ft. long, 84 ft. wide,
with a beautiful stone spire 264 ft. I h, containing a chime
of bells and a large clock, and forming one of the most pro-
minent objectt? as the traveller approaches the city. The
organ is the largest ever built in this country. Rev. Dr.
Wainwright, rector. h
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TRINITY CHURCU
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CHURCHES.
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St. Paul's Chapel, Ep., on Broadway, between Fulton
and Vesey sts., is 151 by 73 ft., with a spire 203 ft. high.
It was erected in 1765, the steeple in 1794, and is a venera-
ble looking building of dark gray stone. There is a largo
figure of St. Paul in the front, and also monuments to Gen.
Montgomery who fell at Quebec, and to Emmett the Irish
orator.
St. Mark's Church, Ep.j on Stuyvcsant St., E. of the
Bowery, of dark gray stone, was built in 1799, and a steeple
added in 1826. Rev. Dr. Anthon.
St. George's Church, Ep., corner of Beekman and Cliff
sts. is of brown stone, erected in 1752. Rev. Dr. Tyng.
St. John's Chapel, Ep. on Varick st. opposite St. John's
square, was erected in 1810, at a cost of $200,000. It is a
beautiful edifice of brown sandstone, in the Corinthian style,
132 ft. by 80 ft., with an admirably proportioned steeple,
215 ft. high.
St. Thomas' Church, corner Broadway and Houston sts.,
is a stately building, in the Gothic style, 62 ft. wide by 1 13 ft.
deep. It was finished in 1826, and has two octagon towers
80 ft. high, one at each front corner.
Grace Church, Ep., on Broadway above lOlh st., is of
white marble, in the form of a cross, and is one of the most
splendid buildings in the city. It is in the Gothic style, with
stained glass windows, and was erected in 1845. at a cost of
$145,000.
The Dutch Reformed Church, on Washington square, is
a beautiful Gothic edifice of dark-coloured granite, erected
in 1840.
The French Church, Ep., corner of Franklin and Church
sts. ; the First Baptist Church, corner of Broome and Eliza-
beth sts. ; St. Patrick's Cathedral, R. Catholic, corner of Prince
and Mott sts. ; First Presbyterian Church, 5th avenue, be-
tween 11th and 12th sts.; Dutch Reformed Church, on La-
52
NEW YORK CITY.
fayette Place; First Unitarian Church, Broadway between
Spring and Prince sts. ; Presbyterian Church, University
Place; and others, are splendid churches, for which New
York is celebrated, and deserve a particular notice, and the
visit of the stranger.
There are 25 Banks in New York, with an aggregate capi-
tal of about $30,000,000, many of them having splendid edi-
fices. Several Marine Insurance companies with an aggre-
gate capital of $3,500,000 ; 22 Fire Insurance companies with
a capital of $6,360,000 ; and 4 Savings Banks. .
I There are 15 Markets, well supplied by the surrounding
country.
The city is lighted with gas suppUed by the N. Y. Gas
Light company, situated at the corner of Canal and Cen-
tre sts., who have laid down 30 m. of iron pipes.
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CROTON WATER WORKS.
The city is supplied with water brought from the Croton
river by the most extensive works of the kind ever erect-
ed, costing over $12,000,000. They were commenced in
1837, and finished in 1842. The Croton r. is dammed
6 m. from its mouth on the Hudson ; the dam is 250 ft. long,
70 ft. wide at the bottom, 7 ft. at the top, and 40 ft. high,
built of stone and cement. It creates a pond 5 m. long,
covering a surface of 400 acres, and elevates the water
40 ft. From the dam the aqueduct proceeds, sometimes
tunnelling through solid rocks and crossing valleys by em-
bankments, through the valley of the Hudson 33 m. until it
reaches Harlaem r. It is built of stone, brick, and cement,
arched over and under, 6 ft. 3 in. wide at bottom, 7 ft. 8 in.
at the top of the side walls which are 8 ft. 5 in. high, has
a descent of 13^ in. per mile, and will discharge 60,000,000
gallons in 24 hours. It crosses Harlaem river on a magnifi-
PLACES OP AMUSEMENT.
58
cent bridge, 1450 ft. long, with 14 piers, 114 ft. above
tidewater at the top, and costing nearly $1,000,000. The
receiving reservoir is at 86th St., 38 m. from the Croton dam,
covers 35 acres, and contains 150,000,000 gallons. The
water is conveyed to the distributing reservoir on Murray's
Hill in 40th St., by iron pipes ; it covers 4 acres, is 43 ft. high
above the street, and holds 20,000,000 gallons. Thence the
water is distributed by about 150 m. of pipe, principally from
6 to 12 in. in diameter. The introduction of this water has
been of vast use, and lessened the rates of insurance 40 cts.
on the dollar.
The government of the city is in the hands of a mayor and
common councils. The city is divided into 17 wards, each
of which elects an alderman, an assistant alderman, two
assesors, one collector, and two constables. Pop. in 1800,
60,489 ; in 1840, 312,710; present pop. about 400,000. Value
of real and personal estate in 1846, $239,938,317.
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT.
Park Theatre, opposite the Park, best and most fashion-
able ; Bowery Thcaire, Bowery near Chatham st., mediocre ;
MitchelVs Olympic, Broadway below Grand st., very popu-
lar; Niblo^s Garden, Broadway corner of Prince St., very
popular and fashionable; Chatham Theatre, Chatham near
Roosevelt St., lowcomedy; Palmo's Opera /Zbusg, Chambers
St. opposite the Paik, now converted into a theatre; the
American Museum, Broadway near the Park, containing
over half a million curiosities, well worth visiting; Castle
Garden, open day and evening, and commanding a splendid
view of the harbour, its islands, and other scenery; Vaux-
hall Garden, 408 Bowery; Neio York Museum, Broadway
opposite the City Hall, contains an extensive and interesting
collection of curiosities, and portraits.
r *>
<•» V^"
NEW V O l» K, C I T V.
HOTELS.
1 t
These though numerous, are at times insufficient for the
accommodation of the travelling public. The followhig are
the principal ones.
Astor House^ Broadway between Barclay and Vesey sta.,
of granite, 6 stories high. * t; ''■' «9
y
PLACES IN THE VICINITY OF NEW YORK.
' BROOKLYN.
This city is situated at the W. end of Long Island, oppo-
site the S. portion of tiie city of New York, from which it is
separated by the East r., about three fourths of a mile wide,
and is reached by steam ferry boats, which leave from the
foot of Fulton St., Catharine st., Walnut st., and Whitehall,
every few minutes. It is the second place in population in
the state, and the seventh in the United States ; it has and
still continues to increase in an unexampled manner; in 1810,
the populal/on was 4402; in 1820, 7175; in 1830, 15,396; in
1840, 36,233; and at present, is about 60,000. This extra-
ordinary increase is owing to its facilities for communication
with New York, inducing many persons to prefer Brooklyn
for residence to the upper part of New York.
The ground on which Brooklyn is built is higher than that
of its sister city, the air is purer, and it commands a beau-
tiful prospect of the ba)'^ and the surrounding shores. The
city is regularly laid out, with streets generally straight
crossing each other at right angles, mostly paved and lighted,
and ornamented with trees. The houses are well built,
many of them splendid buildings, especially those erected
within a few years.
The Public Building:, are neat and commodious, though
not of striking appearance. The foundation of a City Hall
to cost over half a million of dollars, was laid some years,
but its position was unfavourable, and the work has never
progressed beyond the basement. The city authorities oc-
cupy a building formerly the Apprentices' Library building.
The Lyceumj on Washington st., is a fine building of granite,
55
m
11
M
VICINITY OF NEW V O R K.
I *
with a spacious lecture room. The City Library has a roacU
ing room, and a library of over 3000 vols. The Hamilton
Literary Association, a flourishing institution, has an annual
course of lectures. The Jail, in the E. part of the city, is a
castellated gothic building of freestone. The Orphan Asylum
is a very useful association, and has a spacious edifice sur-
rounded by extensive grounds, in the £. part of the city.
There are nearly 40 Churches in Brooklyn, some of them
splendid edifices. Three Banks, with an aggregate capital
of 81,000,000; and 3 lasurance Companies.
The most interesting objects are, the U. S. Navy Yard on
Wallabout Bay, contains two large ship-houses for the con-
struction of vessels, workhouses, officers' houses, &c. The
Naval Lyceum, connected with the Yard, is a literary institu-
tion, formed in 1833, by officers connected with the post, and
possesses a library and museum. The Naval Hospital, about
half a m. E. of the Navy Yard, is a fine building, on elevated
ground, and surrounded with 33 acres, well cultivated.
Greenwood Cemetery, containing 185 acres of beautifully
ornamented grounds, in the S. part of the city, is a delightful
spot. It contains many beautiful monuments, shaded walks,
and a neat chapel, the whole surrounded by an ornamental
railing.
The Atlantic Dock Company, with a capital of 1,000,000
dollars, have constructed extensive piers with large store-
houses, forming a basin of 42 acres, of a depth sufficient to
accommodate the largest vessels. The harbour of Brooklyn
is extensive, and capable of being made more so, by an in-
crease of its wharves, where vessels of the largest class load
and unload. Its commerce and manufactures are also con-
siderable.
Brooklyn was incorporated as a village in 1816, and as a
city in 1834. It is governed by a mayor and 18 aldermen —
two from each of the 9 wards, elected by the people.
B R O O K L Y N — H A R L A E M, ETC.
57
Brooklyn was the scene of many stirring events during the
Revolutionary war. It was occupied by the American army
before the battle of Flatbush, which occurred Aug. 27, 1776,
and there are now to be seen the ruins of the American for-
tiiif.itions, of which Fort Greene is the most interesting-
After the fatal battle of Flatbush, in which more than 3000
Americans were taken or killed, while the British loss was
only about 400, the Americans crossed the river to New
York, and left Long Island in possession of the British. At
the Wallabout, near the Navy Yard, were moored the prison
nhips, where the American p'-isoners were confined ; and
11,500, after sufTering all thui human mture could bear,
from scanty and unwholesome provisions, impure water, a
pestilential atmosphere, and a v mt of nnedical attenrknco,
yielded up their lives to British cruelty. They 'He slightly
buried on the bank, and the sand having wa -);t a away and
exposed their bones, thev were collec'-^d in 1808, an de-
posited in 13 cofHns inscribed with tht na. nes of the onginal
13 states, and placed in a vault beneath a suitable building
erected for the purpose, in Jackson st. near the Navy Yard.
It is a square edifice, surmounted with the American eagle,
and surrounded by a neat fence. The ceremonies at which
15,000 persons were present, were very imposing.
The Forts on the islands in the harbour form an interest-
ing sight for visiters, who reach them by row-boats from
Castle Garden bridge.
The Harlaem railroad, incorporated in 1831, extends 27m.
from the City Hall to White Plains, passing through York-
ville and Harlaem, and a tunnel excavated in the solid rock
for one fourth of a xnile.
Numerous excursions are made by steamboats to the towns
on the Hudson ; to Weehawken, Hoboken, Harsimus, and
58
VICINITY OF NEW YORK.
I
Ik
Jersey City, on the W. side of the Hudson, on the Jersey
shore opposite to New York.
Newark, Elizabethtown, Rahway, New Brunswick,
Passaic Falls, Elizabethfort, and Perth Amboy, are all
towns in New Jersey, mostly reached by railroads from Jer-
sey City.
^ New Brighton, the Quarantine ground, and Tompkins-
ville, are very beautiful places on Staten Island, for which
steamboats leave the lower part of the city every hour.
Long Island has many pleasant places for resort. Flush-
ing 9 m., containing the Linnean Botanic Garden ', Jamaica
12 m., and Jamaica Bay, excellent sport for wild fowl; Rock-
away Beach 22 m., a celebrated watering place, with splendid
hotels, and delightful sea bathing; Flatbush 5 m., delight-
fully situated ; Coney Island, a bathing place of great resort ;
East New York and Union Race Course, where the races are
held ; Hempstead 24 m., a delightful place for residence ;
Fort Hamilton B.i the ''Narrows," mid Bath-House a.t Gravea-
end Bay, favourite bathing places ; Glen-Cove, Oyster Bay,
and Cold Springs, are on the N. side ; New-Rochelle and
Williamsburg, are all pleasant places for summer resort.
The above places on Long Island, are reached either by
cars and stages leaving Brooklyn, or by steamboats from New
York.
Various places on the island of New York, above the city,
as West Farms, Eastchester, Mamaroneck, Rye and Port-
chester on the Sound, are reached by stages from Williams'
Bridge, on the line of the Harlaem railroad. m..^
Schooley's Mountain, 58 m. from New York, is reached
by steamboat to Elizabethport 12 m., to Somerville by r. r.
26 m., thence by stage 20 m. It is a delightful and fashion-
able summer resort, on account of its high situation com-
manding an extensive prospect, and its mineral springs,
fielmont Hall, at an elevation of 2,000 ft., is a capital house.
WATERING PLACE S P ASSAIC PALLS 59
Long Branch, 30 m. S. of New York, on the E. shore of
New Jersey, facing the Atlantic ocean; and Cape May,
further down the coast, at the mouth of Delaware Bay, are
thronged every summer by the votaries of fashion, and
those fond of sea bathing.
The Ocean HousSj Shr^v/sburyj Red Banks) and Tinton FallSf
near Sandy Hookj are favourite place shearer Now York, and
reached by steamboats which leave from near Futton mar«
ket on the East river, daily.
The Passaic Falls, reached by R. R. from Jersey City,
are 17 m. from New York, near the manufacturing village
of Paterson, N. J. The Passaic here descends in the whole,
60 or 70 ft. It descends with great swiftness over a steep
slope and then falls 30 or 40 ft. into a narrow, romantic
cavern, from whence it is diverted at nearly right angles
from its previous course by a lofty wall of perpendicular
rock, and after a short distance empties into a broad, dark
pool which is walled in by huge perpendicular cliffs 80 or
90 ft. high. From thence it makes another short turn and
flows in nearly the same direction as above the falls, through
a fertile and beautiful valley, forming a striking contrast to
the picturesque and romantic scenes above. The amount of
water taken from the river for manufacturing purposes within
a few years, has much lessened the beauty of the fiUls.
>-v^«?.-;..i*-;
8^;'^/
^'itflh:-:-^-
»?
A .;€
^*'.
f
V. ,.ji^i.f
y - ■ «
ROUTES FROM NEW YORK.
TO ALBANY AND TROY.
I. By Steamboats on the Hudson r., which leave morning
and evening from foot of Barclay and foot of Cortlandt st.,
and evening only, from Pier 14 N. R., between Liberty and
Cortlandt sts. ; from Pier 18 N. R., foot of Cortlandt st., and
from Pier 24 N. R., west, between Barclay and Robinson
streets. See p. 65. ai^ ;,•.,.■•-*• ' - ' •
II. By Steamboat and R. R. rotUe, via Housatonic R. R.,
196 m. — 14 hours to Albany.
Passengers take the steamboat, which leaves the foot of
Market st. E. R., to Bridgeport, Ct., 60 m.
By R. R. to Massachusetts State Line, 74 m.
By do. to West Stockbridge, 24 m.
■ By do. to Albany, 38 m. ■ ■ '
; By do. to Troy, 6 m. ^ ^- «
■*«.«: ir-. .
WINTER ARRANGEMENTS.
III. During the close of navigatif n, passengers take the
steamboat from Pier 14 N. R., foot of Liberty st., through
Long Island Sound to New Haven, thence by R. R. to. Hart-
ford and Springfield, as on p. 193, and from Springfield over
the Western R. R. to Albany and Troy, as on p. 246. During
this season, this is the pleasantest and most expeditious
route.
IV. By Stage on the E. side of Hudson r. via King's,
Bridge, * ! m. Yonkers 17, Dobb's Ferry 22, Tarrytown 28,
Sing Sing 34, Cortlandtown 38, Peekskill 45, Philipsburg 54,
Fishkill 64, Wappinger's creek 71, Poughkeepsie 78, Hyde
Park 84, Staatsburg 88, Rhinebeck 94, Red Hook 100, Cler-
60
iiim.
ROUTES FROM NEW YORK.
61
mont 108, Livingston 112, Hudson 120, Stockport 126, Sluy-
vesant Falls 130, Kinderhook 133, Schodack Centre 142,
Greenbush 149, Albany 150, Troy 156.
Most of the above places are described on pp. 65 to 78.
V. By Steamboat to Piermont 24 m. thence by Erie R. R.
to Ramapo 44 m. Monroe works 52 m. Turner's Depot 57 m j
thence by stage on the W. side of the Hudson^ via New-
burgh 74 m. Milton 86, Esopus 99, Rondout 107, Kingston
109, Saugerties 121, Maiden 124, Catskill 133, Athens 139,
Coxsackie 147, New BaUiraore 153, Coeymans 155, Albany
167. See pp. 65 to 78.
TO BOSTON.
There are four great routes to this city. " -
I. Steamboat and R. Road route via New Haven and Spring-
field, 238 m. through in 13 i hours. See p. 193.
Passengers take the steannboat starting every morning from
Peck slip, on the East r. to New Haven, 78 m., time 5 h.
Then by R. R. to Hartford 36 m., time 2 h.
To Spiingfield by do. 26 m., time U h.
To Worcester by do. 54 ra., time 2| h.
To Boston by do. 44 m., time 24 h.
II. R. Road and Steamboat line, via Long Island, 238 m.,
time lOi h., the quickest and most picturesque route. See
p. 202.
By the South Ferry to Brooklyn, 1 m.
* By the Long Island R. R. to Greenport, 96 m.
By Steamboat to Allyn's Point, 32 m.
By R. R. to Norwich, 7 m.
By do. to Worcester, 59 m.
By do. to Boston, 44 m.
III. By Steamboat and R. R. via Stonington, and ProvU
dfence, 214 m., 134 h. See p. 203. - - '■
62
ROUTES FROM NEW YORK.
By Steamboat from the foot of Battery Place to
Stonington, 125 m. 9i h. - .
By R. R. to Providence, 47 m. 2 h.
By do. to Boston, 42 m. 2 h.
IV. By Steamboat and R. R. via Norwich, Ct., 238 m.,
13i h. See p. 202.
By St amboat from Pier No. 1, North r. via New
. . London to Ally n's Point, 128 m., 9 h.
By Iv. P to Norwich, 7 m. ^
By do. to Worcester, 59 m. > 4i h.
By do. to Boston, 44 m. )
V. By Steamboat and R. R. via Providence.
Passengers take the steamboats, which are of the first
class, furnished with private state rooms and life-boats, from
Pier No. 1, North r. foot of Battery Place, at 5 P. M., Sundays
excepted, and arrive early the next morning. See p. 204.
TO NEWARK, ELIZABETHTOWN, RAHWAY, AND NEW
BRUNSWICK.
Steamboats leave the foot of Barclay st. several times
during the day for Jersey City, from whence the cars are
taken for the above places.
/ - . , ■ " -. "■'■'
TO PATERSON. 17 M.
By Steamboat from foot of Cortland st. to Jersey City,
where the cars start for the above place.
TO MORRISTOWN, N. J.
To Newark as above, from whence the cars leave for Mor-
ristown at 10 A.M. and 4 P. M.
TO ELIZABETHTOWN AND SOMERVILLE. 38 M.
To Elizabethtown as above, or by the steamboats which
ROUTES FROM NEW YORK.
63
leave the foot of Battery Place daily, for New Brighton, Port
Richmond, and Elizabethport. From whence the cars leave
for Somerville, 26 m.
TO HARLAEM AND WHITE PLAINS.
The cars leave the City Hall, at almost every hour of the
day, for White Plains, 26 m., through in 1 h. 45 m., Fare
50ct3. • . ' ^ ,"■•>
For Harlaem, 8 m. run every 6 minutes. Fare 12i cts.
From White Plains stages run to Danbury, Ct., 41m. via
Bedford 16 m.
TO MiDDLETowN, Orange Co. 77 m.
Passengers take the steamboat which leaves the foot of
Duane st. daily, Sundays excepted, at 8 A. M. and 3 P. M.
to Piermont 24 m. time 1 h. 45 m. From Piermont the
cars on the N. York and Erie R. R. run to Middletown via
Goshen, in 3 h. 45 m. Total distance, 77 m., Fare $1,75,
time 5i hours.
TO DUNKIRK. 438 M.
By Steamboat and R. R. to Middletown, as above, thence by
stage to Bloomingburg 88 m., Wurtsboro' 91, Monticello 103,
Ploasant Mount 146, New Milford 167, Binghamton 190,
Owego 211, Athens, Pa., 232, Chemung 237, Elmira 250,
Corning 266, Bath 286, Howard 298, Angelica 329, Ellicotts-
ville 327, Waterboro' 398, Jamestown 4GS, Holdenviile 427,
Fredonia 435, Dunkirk 438.
TO BARCELONA. 437 M.
To Jamestown 408 m. as above, thence through Harmony
416, Magnolia 423, MaysviHe 429, Westfield 435, Barcelona
437.
>
S '
•■ ^■
64 ROUTESPROMNEWYORir.
TO ROCHESTER, via Owego, GeneseOy fkc.
To Bath 236 m. as above, Kennedysv llle 290, Conlsocto^^ 302,
Dansville 31^5, Sparta 319, Groveland 3£i, Genesee o :6,
Avon lj44, Rush 352, Henrietta 357, Rfciiester ;6 !
TO ITHACA, Tia Paler SOU, n. j., Mdford, Pa., and
Hones uale. 210 m.
By Steamboat tn Jersey Oily 1 m., 'hence by U. R. to
Patereon 17, and by stage to Poinptori 23, New F ndlaiid 35,
Stockholm 39, Hrimburg 48, Deckerlown 53, Liberty viile 56,
MilArd. Pa. ILK Darlingsville 82, Tafton 92, Honesdale 105,
V'ayiniirt 114, Carbondale 120, Dundaff 128, Lenox 136,
BiO )klyn 145. Montrose 152, Foreal Lake 158, Friendsville
164, Warrenham 172, Owego, N. Y. 181, thence by R. R. to
Ithaca 210. ^^.a,-. az.w 't^ffi ^ .\-" ' ^--„
TO GENEVA, Via Piermout, Owego, and Ithaca.
To Owego as above, 21 1 m., thence by R. R. to Candor 221,
Wilseyville 226, Ithaca 240, and by steamboat to Ludlowville
247, Frog Point 252, Sheldrake Point 262, Aurora. 270, Spring-
port 276, Cayuga Bridge 282, then by R. R. to Seneca Fallfi
287, Waterloo 291, Geneva 298. (Seep. 120.) If you pre-
fer the stage to the steamboat, the former can be taken at
Ithaca direct to Geneva, 290 m. by this route.
f '
MAP OF THE HUDSON RIVER,
As far a* Navigable With the distancea trom New York.
i\
1
HUDSON RI VE R.
TO ALBANY AND TROY. 150 M.
During the season of navigation on the Hudson, which
lasts from the beginning of spring to the commencement of
■winter, passengers will find numerous splendid and commo-
dious steamboats plying between New York and the various
places on the river, which leave morning and evening. The
usual time to Albany and Troy, including stoppages, is about
10 or 12 hours. Although the accommodations in the night
boats are excellent, still we would advise travellers to start
in the morning line, as they will then have an opportunity
of enjoying some of the most beautiful river scenery in the
world, the Hudson being the Rhine of the United States.
As the boat leaves the wharf and gets into the middle of
the stream, the passenger will find ample scope for observa-
tion and admiration. The view southwardly embraces the
Harbour studded with Governor's, Bediow'e, and Ellis' Islands,
with glimpses of Lonp Tbland, Staten Island, iho Narrows and
N. York bay in the distance; on the W. the jerccy shore
and its towns and coitages; and on the E. the city with its
forest of shipping, iXa wharves, and the numerous spires
towering above the mass of buildings.
Hoboken, on the W. side, is a charming spot, where the
citizens in the heat of summer, spend many a pleasant af-
ternoon.
Weehavjken, on the W. 4 m. from N. Y. is a beautifully
wooded clilT, with bold, rocky bluffs, on the '•summit of which
are a hotel and handsome villa. On the margin of the river
is the ppot where Alex. Hamilton fell in his duel with Aaron
Burr, in 1804. Here commence the Pdisades, and extend
about 20 m. to Tappan. '^-
Bloomingdale, on the E. 5 m. from N. Y. contains a few
scattered hciases, and stan i'ng conspicuous amongst them
5 f 2
I
:^>rry, < a the W. 6 m. from N. Y. connected with
the city 'oy a lerry, and is a place of considerable resort.
Manhuttanville, on the £. 8 m. from N. Y. contains about
50o inhabitants. About U m. £. toward East r. is the vil-
lige of Harlaem.
Fort Washington, on the E. .'' .n. from N. Y., is 238 ft. above
the river. This place was captured by the British and Hes-
sians in 1776, after the capture of the city, and the garrison
of 2600 men, were either killed or confined in the prison ships
at Wallabout bay, near Brooklyn. To the E. of the fort is
White Plains, where the sanguinary battle was fought.
Fort LeCj on the W., nearly opposite, is 300 ft. above the
river; it was surrendered shortly after Fort Washington. A
ferry boat plies between the village and New York. >. ;t
The Palisades, whicli commence north of Weehawken,
he;e rise almost perpendicularly from the wat*^" They con-
sist of a range of columnar rock, fron#50 to 500 ft. in height,
and for nearly the whole of the 20 m. to Piermont, form a ma-
jestic wall of solid rock, diversified only by an occasional fish-
ing cottage at their base, or wood slides down their sides.
The channel of the river being near their base, they are seen
to great advantag.^ from the deck.
On the E. side, 13 m. fiom N. Y., is Spuyten DeviVs Creek,
at the end of New York Island, and connecting with Har-
laem r. on the E. On the N. bank is Fort Independence, in
Westchester county.
The shore on the E. slue is here varied by hill and dale,
with beautifully situated country residences scattered here
and there, overlookin the river. Back of the valleys, near
the shore, the country "^es m rocky hills and becomes more
precipitous the farther you ai vance through Westchester co.
and is in fact the commencement of the Fishkill mountains
P 1 K R M O N T — T A R R Y T O W N.
which connect with the Taughannic and Greon mountains
in Vermont.
, Phillipsburg or Yonkers on the E. side 16 m. from N. Y. is
a small but neat village, connected with N. Y. by the daily-
line of steamboats that run to Sing-Sing, and Peekskill.
Hastings, 20 m. from N. V. and Dobb's Ferry 22 m. are
small scattered villages. Nearly opposite the latter, is the
slate line between New York and New Jersey, and from
which point both sides of the Hudson are in N. York state.
Opposite Dobb's Ferry, the Palisades terminate abruptly in
u hill 549 ft. high, which together with the Pier running for
a mile into Tappan sea, has given the name to
PiEUMONT, or Tappan' s Landintf, 24 m. from N. York. This
is a considerable town containing over 1,000 inhabitants,
and is the terminus of the N. York and Erie R. R. which runs
out to the end of the pier. The line as laid out extends from
Piermont to Dunkirk on Lake Erie, 446 m., but is finished
only as far as Middletown 53 m. Two or three miles VV. of
the town is the old town of Tappan the head quarters of
Washington for a time, and the place where Major Andre
was executed Oct. 2nd, 1780. His grave is still shown, al-
though his remains were conveyed to England some years
ago by order of the British government.
At Piermont the Hudson expands to a width of from 2 to
5 m. in width, forming Tappan Bay, extending about 10 m.
as far as Teller'' s pt. Here the scenery or^ either shore is ex-
tremely picturesque and beautiful.
Irving, on the E. side 26 m. from N Y. is a scattered set-
tlement, near which is the beautiful country seat of Wash-
ington Irving. ■ *r ,,.;■ ::-:,.. - ; >.,,;;;' •;.; i . i^ , ft „v c;^^ '
Tarrytown, on the E. side, 27 m. from N. Y. is beautifully
situated, and contains about 1000 inhabitants. It is famous
as being the spot where Andre wa8 captured by three mili-
tia men, on his return from his inteiYiew with the traitor Ar-
f
68
N E ^V YORK TO ALBANY.
I i
• /
nolil at West Point. Near Tarrylown is the Irving Institute,
a venerable Refornnecl Dutch Church erected in the 17th cen-
tury, and "Sleepy Hollow" the scene of Washington Irving's
tale of that name in the Sketch fiook.
Nyack, on the W. side, 28 m. from N. Y. is a thriving place
and pleasantly situated.
Sing Sing, on the E. side, 33 m. from N. Y. is well situated
partly in a ravine and partly on a hill rising gradually to the
height of 200 ft. It was incorporated in 1803, and contains
4 churches and about 2500 inhabitants. The most prominent
object is the Mt. Pleasant State Prison, constructed of rough
dressed marble, quarried and erected by the prisoners. It
consists of a main building 480 ft. long by 44 ft. wide, 5 sto-
ries high, containing 1000 cells, and fronting on the bay. In
front and rear are various workshops, with the keeper's
house, a chapel, kitchen, hospital, storehouses, and a sepa-
rate building for female convicts. The 130 acres belonging
to the prison, contain vast quarries of marble, which are
worked by the prisoners. There is also a silver and a copper
mine. The Croton aqueduct bridge across Sing-Sing creek is
built in the best manner.
On the opposite side of the bay is Slaughter's Landing, to
the west of which is Rockland Lake, from whence large
quantities of ice are annually sent to New York. At the base
of Verdreitjes Hook 668 ft. high is the spot where Andre
landed. •;.;3'^ ''i::- ^^'r" U' ,.i«)f v'i.v- V ^ ■
Tellerh Paint, projects into the river more than a mile,
immediately above the confluence of the Croton r. with the
Hudson, and at the entrance of Haverstraw bay, another ex-
pansion of the Hudson of 2 or 3 m. in width and 6 m. long.
Haverstraw or Warren, is on the W. side, 36 m. from N. Y.
in the rear of which are some very high hills, and near which
is Smitii'd House, where Andre was concealed.
Grassy Point is a steamboat landing 2 m. above.
/A.
CALDWELL'S L A \ I) I N G — V E E K S K I L L.
60
Stoney Point on the W. side, 39 m. from N. Y. is celebra*
ted in the history of the Revolution. There is now a light-
house where the old fortification stood. Verplanck^s Point
on the other side, is an e.\-colIent landing, and in connection
with Stoney Pt. was the first important positions north of the
city of N.York, which the Americans attempted to defend
against the passage of the British down the river, which is
here only half a mile in width. During the winter the river
is navigable to these points ; after passing which the river
becomes contracted, with high and picturesque mountains
on either side forming prominent objects in the beautiful
scenery.
Gtbralter or CaldweWs Landing, on the W. side, 42 m.
from N. York, and 101 m. from Albany, is the first place at
which the large class of steamboats stop. Dunderberg Mt.
rises almost abruptly from the river in the rear of the land-
ing. The landing is at the south entrance of the '' High-
lands," and is connected by a steam ferry with
Peekskill, on the opposite side, a thriving village, incor-
porated in 1837, and containing about 2,000 inhabitants, 7
churches, and 6 public houses. During the Revolutionary-
war, in 1777, it was the head quarters of Genl. Putnam, who
here hung two spies on an oak tree, still standing on Oak Hill.
Passengers can here take stages to Ridgefield, Conn, via
Somers and North Salem ; to Carmel village, via Red Mills
and Mahopack ; and in the hottest part of summer twice a
day to Mahopack lake, a beautiful sheet of water, about a
mile in diameter, and one of the resources of the Croton r.
The accommodations are good, and the fishing excellent.
At the mouth of the Peekskill creek is Fort Independence
near which is a public house delightfully situated, and
having good accommodations for a summer retreat.
The river now takes a sudden turn to the west for about
a mile, denominated ' the Horse Race,^ and winds round the
r
»■
70
NEW YORK TO ALBANY.
base of Anthony's Nose 1128 ft. in height, one of the peaks
of the Highlands, which are the grandest and next to the
Palisade.s, the most remarkable feature of the Hudson scene-
ry. They are about 16 m. in width and extend on both sides
the Hudson, for about 20 m. The river now enters classic
ground, as many of the points are celebrated in American
history.
The sites of Forts Clinton and Montgomery are on the W.
side of the r. from whence chevaux-de-frise.boom and chains,
were stretched across to the base of Anthony's Nose, in
1777. The forts were garrisoned by 600 men, and on the
6th of Oct. 1777, were attacked by the British 3,000 strong,
under Sir Henry Clinton, and captured during the night,
there not being a sufficient number to man the lines.
Sugar Loaf, is a lofty summit on the E. side, at the base
of which is the house where the traitor Arnold lived. About
half a mile beyond, on the W. side, are the Buttermilk
Falls, 49 m. from N. Y. About a mile farther, Kosciusko's
garden and monument are distinctly seen.
West Point, 52 m. from N. Y., is romantically situated
on the W. side. It was one of the most impregnable posts
during the revolutionary war, and derives its present im-
portance from the U. S. military academy located here. It
was this post that Arnold had agreed to place in the enemy's
hands, having at the time the command of it ; but his trea-
son was discovered by the capture of Andre at Tarrytown,
and he himself escaped from Robinson's House, on the E.
side where he had his head quarters. In 1794, a Military
School was commenced, at the recommendation of Gen).
Washington, in a building which was burnt two years after,
and the school suspended until 1802, when it was re-esta-
blished by Congress. There is now, a stone building in
Gothic style, 150 ft. long by 60 ft. wide, with three towers;
it contains the library room, which is ornamented by paint-
II
-_- j . ^^-> At'.t:..itd^ ,.
WEST POINT.
%m
Is trea-
rtown,
Ithe E.
filitary
Genl.
after,
j-esta-
[ing in
pwers ;
paint-
m
ings and designs, and has nearly 15,000 vols. ; the philoso-
phical room with a fine apparatus ; and the astronomical
part, which has very complete instruments and an observa-
tory covered by a dome in the central tower weighing 4
tons. The chapel is 50 ft. in front by 70 ft. deep. The
academy is a fine stone building 275 ft. long by 75 ft. wide,
3 stories high, and contains a riding hall, recitation rooms,
various offices, an engineering room furnished with beautiful
models of fortification and civil engineering, as well as of
architecture, &c., two spacious galleries for painting and
sculpture, and a chemical laboratory. The Hospital is a
stone edifice near the bank of the river, commanding a fine
prospect and admirably fitted up. In the military laboratory
are workshops and various kinds of ordnance, some of revo-
lutionary memory, amongst which are the remains of the
immense chain which was stretched across the river in 1777.
There are also two large stone barracks occupied by 250
cadets, the number authorized by law; a mess-hall, two
cavalry stables, several workshops and store-rooms, 17
dwellings, occupied by the officers of the institution, a
magazine, a laboratory, soldiers' barracks, a store, and about
25 dwellings occupied by families connected with the mili-
tary sciiool, and about 900 inhabitants.
There is a fine Hotel for the accommodation of visiters,
and the traveller will be well repaid for spending a day here,
especially in the summer season. On landing, every one
who arrives is requested by a soldier to enter his name, and
on leaving the same is done ; thus the commander knows of
all arrivals and departures. The surrounding places of note
are extremely interesting. The cadets have erected a monu-
ment to Kosciusko, the Polish general, at an expense of
$5,000 ; Kosciusko's garden is a wild and romantic spot ; in
the back ground and elevated on a hiass of rocks 596 ft. in
height, is the site of Fort Putnam, from whence a beautiful
t--- '■'^:
?,
>i
72
NEW YORK TO ALBANY.
view of the country can be had j Fort Clinton is situated at
the extreme eastern point of this military position, 160 ft.
above tide water; there are also numerous other fortified
points built under the direction of Kosciusko, as engineer.
There are now connected with West Point academy 34
officers and professors, a company of artillery and a detach-
ment of dragoons, besides the cadets, who generally remain
for four years, in which time they are qualified to become
subaltern officers of the army.
West Point Iron foundry is on the E. side a mile north, op-
posite to which is Crowds Nest 1418 ft. in height, and Butler
Hill 1529 ft. in height.
Cold Spring, on the E. side, 54 m. from N. Y. is a thriving
manufacturing village. Immediately above are Bull Hill
1486 ft. in height. Breakneck Hill 1187 ft. and which has
the curious rocky projection called 'Anthony's face,' and
Beacon Hill or Grand Sachem 1685 ft. being the loftiest peak
of the Highlands. At the base of these clifTs are extensive
quarries, and near the shore is Polopel's Island, a large mass
of rock. Here the river expands to the width of a mile for
5 or 6 m . which is called Newburgh Bay, and for the whole
length presents a delightful prospect.
New Cornwall 57 m. and New Windsor 59 m. from N. Y.
are small villages on the W. side, the latter being the birth-
place of the distinguished De Witt Clinton.
Newburgh, on the W. side, 61m. from N. Y. is well situ-
ated, and is seen to great advantage from the water, as the
ground rises rapidly from the river to the height of 300 ft.
The town was incorporated in 1800 and now contains nearly
a thousand dwellirgs and a population of 8933 ; also a court-
house, a jail, 10 churches, an Associate Reformed Theologi-
cal seminary, 3 banks, numerous stores and manufactories,
2 public libraries, 14 taverns, and several good seminaries.
From its situation it commands an extensive intercourse with
ated at
160 ft.
ortificd
aeer.
3my 34
ietach-
remain
become
)rth, op-
l Butler
thriving
ull Hill
dch has
ce,' and
est peak
xtensive
ge mass
mile for
le whole
tn N.Y.
le birth-
ell situ-
as the
jf 300 ft.
IS nearly
a court-
'heologi-
actories,
ntiinaries.
arse with
N E W B U R G — P OUGHKEEPSIE. f§
the fertile country to the west, and is also connected with
New York by four steamboats and several sloops and freight
barges; a steam ferry connects it with Fishkili on the oppo-
site side, and large quantities of lumber, live stock, coal,
manufactures, &c. are transported to different ports. The
Hudson and Delaware R. R. to connect the two rivers and
join the N. Y. and Erie R. R. has been graded. The old
stone house in which Gen. Washington had his head-quarters
is still standing, and here the araiy was disbanded June 23rd
1783. The famous "Newburg Letters" attempting to excite
mutiny in the army were dated at this place. ' -
A line of stages runs to Binghamton 122 m. where it con-
nects with lines running north and south, and with a continu-
ous line west to Barcelona on Lake Erie 357 m. passing
through Owego, Elmira, Bath, Angelica, Ellicotville, and
Mayville.
Fishkili Landing, 64 m. New Hamburg 67 m. Barnegat
70 m. from N. Y. on the E. side ; and Hampton 68 m. Marl-
horougk 70 m. and Milton Landing 72 rn. from N. Y. on the
W. side, are small but thriving villages situated in a beauti-
ful and fertile country containing also some handsome coun-
try residences. »?; .
PouGHKEEPsiE, ou the E. side 74 m. from N.Y. and 71 m.
from Albany may be considered nearly equi-distant between
the two cities. The village is one of the handsomest and
most flourishing in the siate. The main part is but little
seen from the river being on a plain elevated 200 ft. It is
handsomely laid out and well paved, and supplied with wa-
ter from the vicinity brought into a reservoir and distributed
through the streets. It contains about 1300 houses, hand-
somely and compacTy built, 10,000 inhabitants, a courthouse,
a jail, 3 banks, a lyceum, 14 churches, several hotels, nu-
me»ous schools, and a number of mechanical and manufao-
turin establishments. Two companies are engaged in the
G
■.ijiJ>. ii >'i i fii. il»i M i i i ) i »«»ii '
74
NEW YORK TO ALBANY.
I
I
! m
whale trade, and one in the silk business ; there is also an
extensive pin manufactory, and two large breweries. It ia
connected with New York, and various places on the river
by several steamboats, sloops, and freight barges. In the
N. E. part of the town on College Hill is the Poughkeepsie
Collegiate School, a splendid ediiice 115 ft. long, built after
the model of the Parthenon, and forming a prominent object
in the scenery on approaching from the river.
• After leaving Poughkeepsie the river bends to the W.
called Crum Elbow, and then passes through a delightful
country studded with beautiful country seats and the villages
of Hyde Park Landing 80 m. and Staatsburg Landing 85 m.
from N. York, on the W. side ; and Nevj Paltz Landing and
Pellham 84 m. from N. Y. on the E. side. The most striking
country seats on the E. side are those of the late Dr. Hosack,
now Mr.'Langdon's, Gen. M.Lewis, and Wm, Emmet; on
the W. side, those of Dr. Gedney, Mr. Russell, and R. L. Pell.
Rondout, on the W. side, 90 m. from N. Y. is situF.ted at
the mouth of Rondout creek. It is quite a business place
and contains about 1,500 inhabitants. The Delaware and
Hudson canal 108 m. in length, extends in connection with a
railroad of 16 m. to the Pennsylvania coal mines, from Eddy-
ville, 2 m. above Rondout. Kingston Light house on the
river was built by the U. S. government.
Kingston Landing, on the W. side 91m. from N. Y. takes
its name from the village of Kingston, situated 3 m. W. of
the landing, to which stages are constantly running. Stages
leave Kingston 3 times a week for Delhi, and for Ellenville.
Rhinebeck Landing, on the E. side, 90 m. from N. Y. was
early settled by families from the Rhine. It is surrounded
with beautiful country seats,
Thfi Catskill Mountains, 12 or 15 miles W. of the river now
become conspicuous. In clear weather the Catskill Moun-
tain House, 3000 ft. above the Hudson, is distinctly visible.
TARRY TOWN — CAT SKILL.
The noble and varied prospect and the clear cool air to be
enjoyed at this house renders it a delightful summer retreat.
■ Tarrytown, or Lower Red Hooh^ 97 ra. and Tivoli or Up-
per Red Hook Landing, 100 m. from N. Y. on the W. side
are delightfully situated amidst numerous country resi-
dences.
Glasgow on the W. side is a small villagCj 2 m. N. of
which is
Saugcrties or Ulster, on the W. side, 101 m. from N. Y., a
large village containing about 2,000 inhabitants, and situated
on the Esopus near its entrance into the Hudson. It contains
a number of manufactories driven by the vast water-power
derived from a waterfall in the Esopus. Jhe village is con-
nected by stages with
Bristol or Maiden, 2 m. above Saugerties, and where steam-
boats land their passengers.
Germanioton, 105 m. and East Camp 107 m. on the E. side
and West Camp opposite, are small toAvns, settled by the
Dutch.
Catskill, on the W. side, 111m. from N. Y. situated on
both sides of Catskiil creek, is a pleasant village, containing
53.39 inhabitants, a courthouse, jail, 2 banking hoases, 5
churchep, numerous mechanical and manufacturing esta-
blishments, and several public houses. It is connected with
N. York and other places by steamboats and barges. The
Catskill and Canajoharie R. R. is finished as far as Livingston-
ville. A steam ferry connects the village with Oak Hillj
nearly opposite.
About 12 m. S. W. of Catskill is Pine Orchard, a fashion-
able summer resort. The Mountain House, a spacious hotel
140 ft. long and 24 ft. wide, 4 stories high, is on the eastern
verge of a table rock of about 6 acres in extent, and within
a few feet of the verge of a precipice of perpendicular rock
100 feet deep. It is elevated 2212 ft. above the level of the
^l
m
76
NEW YORK TO ALBANY.
I *
Hudson, which gives to the atmosphere a most delightful
coolness. On the S. is a gradually rising elevation, and on
the W. peaks 3800 ft. in height ; from the piazza of the house,
to the eastward, is presented one of the noblest and most
picturesque views in the country, embracing the Hudson for
60 ra. dotted with vessels, and numerous farms, and villages
between the Green Mountains of Vermont on the north, and
the Highlands in the south. Stages leave the landing daily,
and after an uninteresting ride of 9 m. arrive at the foot of
the mountain and commence the ra^ifged ascent over a good
but circuitous road of 3 m.; frequently after ascending the
mountain you behold the valley drenched with rain, while
the sky is clear above you. Two miles W of Pine orchard
are the Kaaterskill Falls formed by the outlets of two ponds
united and falling over a perpendicular rock 180 ft. and an-
other of 80 ft. in height, and emptying through a deep chasm
into the plain below.
Lines of stages leave Catskill daily for Delhi; two tri-
weekly for Ithaca, and Spraker^s Basin, the latter uniting with
the Erie Canal and western railroads ; one semi- weekly to
Prattsville, via Hunter and Lexington ; and one twice daily
via Athens to
Hudson, on the E. side, 116 m. from N. Y. and 29 m. from
Albany. The city is situated on a plain, 60 ft. above the
level of the river, is regularly laid out, and is a place of much
trade and importance, containing a population of 5672. From
the promenade on the river, the principal street, extends
S. E. more than a mile, with a gentle ascent to Prospect
Hill, near 200 ft., with a s»riOOthly rounded surface, and com-
manding an excellent view of the city, the river, the village
of Athens opposite, and the Catskill mountains in the dis-
tance. The courthouse; a splendid building of marble and
blue limestone, stands on a square in the S. part of the city,
is 116 ft. long, and consists of a main building surmounted
H U D S O N C O E V M A N S.
ft
5
3f
with a ilome 40 ft, high, and two wings, entered through an
Ionic portico. The '.lity was chartered in 1785, and now
contains 8 churches, several academies, a Franklin Library
Association, a lunatic asylum, 2 banks, 2 public markets,
and 5 hotels. The city is supplied with pure water con-
ducted through pipes from a spring 2 m. distant. There are
7 or 8 whaleships owned here, 4 steamboats, and other vessels.
The Hudson and Berkshire R. R. extends 34 ra. to West Stock-
bridge, Mass.j connecting with the railroad to Albany on the
N. and Boston on the E., and during the close of navigation
with Bridgeport, Conn., on the S.
A steam ferry boat crosses the river to Athens, between
which and Lunenburg is the small rocky island upon which
the steamboat Swallow was wrecked on the night of April
7th, 1845, on her passage down the river. - - » - jK; ':
Four-mile-Point, on the W. side, 120 m. from N. Y. is a
prominent hill on which stands a light-house, and is at the
head of ship navigation on the Hudson. On the opposite
side Kinderhook creek enters the Hudson, on the north bank
of which is the celebrated Manual Labour School.
Coxaclde, on tiie W. side, 124 m. from N. Y., is a conve-
nient steamboat landing, containing 4 public houses, a ship-
yard and dry dock, 3 churches, of which the Dutch Reformed
and Baptist form prominent objects, and numerous brick
yards. ' ' •
Stuyvesant, on the E. side, 128 m. and Kinderhook Landing
129 m. are .small business places; about 3 m. to the E. of
the latter, is the birthplace and residence of Ex. President
Van Buren.
New Baltimore, and Coeymans, on the \V. side, are small
villages rising from the river and seen to advantage. Be-
tween them lies Barren Island, which was fortified by the
Patroon of Rensiselaerwyck, in 1644. ^ '^ = -■ '^ ^»-r ^ ' \
Coeymans being the last stopping place on the route, we
g2
78
NEW YORK TO ALBANV.
pasB by ihe villages of Schodack 133 m, Castleton 136 m. on
ihe E. side, and Van Wees Point 138 m. on the W., situated
in a delightful country, studded with handsome country
seats: and also pass numerous islands and the overslaugh
bar. As we approach Albany we notice Greenbush on the
opposite side, with the Engine house, Freight house, and
Hotel of the Boston R. R. standing prominently forth ; and
directly opposite the city itself rising upon the hill with
its numerous domes, and spires, conspicuous amongst
which are those of the Capitol, Exchange, City Hall, State
Hall, &c. . #v ,
r-„
ALBANY.
.1^
Albany city, the capital of New York, is on the W. side
of the Hudson r. 145 m. N. of N. York, by the river. Pop.
in 1810, 9,356, 1840, 33,721. The city rises almost abruptly
from the river, in the space of a mile to 220 ft. Its streets
are many of them narrow, ahhough tho.se laid out within a
few years are more regular, and spacious ; the principal ones
are Market, Pearl and State sts. ; the tvio former run parallel
whh the river, and the latter is from 150 to 170 ft. wide,
extending from the Cn pitol to the Hudson, nearly E. and W.
The principal public buildings are :
The Capitol, at the head of State st. occupied by the Legis-
lature and State Courts, is 1 15 ft. long, 90 wide, and cost
$120,000. It fronts on a handsome square formed by the
Capitol and Academy parks, which are enclosed with iron
railings and beautifully laid out. The City Hall, a splendid
marble edi-fice, with a gilded dome ; and the State Hall, also
of white miirble, containing the public offices, are both on
the E. side of the square. On the N. side is the Albany
Academy, a fine edifice of freestone. The Merchant's Ex-
change, built of granite, at the foot of St&te st. contains the
•Uk,
'"W"^
ALBANY, N. V.
79
P. office, stores, &c. Jn Eagle st. S. of luc square is the
Countv 'l.'1 and Medical College, the latter posseesing a very
valuable museum. There are also the Poor House, in the
S. W. part of the cityj the Albany Orphan Asylum, the St.
John's Orphan Asylum, and other benevolent, and religious
institutions. Albany r.lso contains 11 public squares, 3 mar-
kets, 10 public school L/ialdings, and a State arjenal. There
are 8 banks with an aggregate capital of $2,751,000, and
four insurance ccrrjpanies, with a total capital of $700,000.
The city contains 30 churches, of which the Baptist church,
near the academy, is d very elegant building.
There are two ferries crossing the Hu ison ; numerous
steam and tow-boats ply between the city md N. York, be-
sides many sloops plying on the river. By the Erie Canal
and a continuous line of railroads, Albany is connected with
Buffalo, and the trade of the V/est ; by the Champlain Canal
with the North ; ana by a chain of railroads with the East.
A railroad also extend- to Saratoga. There are also 18 lines
of stages to different places. A spacious, basin is constructed
on the margin of the river, for the reception of c'anal boats
and the protection of sloops from the ice. The pier is 1| m.
long, by 80 ft., wide, and spacious stores have been erected
upon it. . ' .•
tr
tr .. ►« ROUTES FROM ALBANY. » w.m ■
TO BALLSTON SPA AND SARATOGA SPRINGS, 37 M.
I. By the Mohawk and Hadaon R. R. to Schenectady 16 m.
> " '' Saratoga and Schenectady R. R. to Ballstou
Spa, 14 m.
" " Saratoga and Schenectady R. R. to Saratoga
Springs, 7 m. See p. 83. ^ . . , _^
JI. To Troy, 6 m. from thence on the Schenectady and
Troy R. R. to Schenectady 20 m. then as in No. 1. — 21 m.
III. To Troy 6 m. from thence on the Rensselaer and
Saratoga R. R. via JSIechanicsville to Ballston Spa, 30 ni.
then by R. R. to Saratoga, 7 m.
Of the above routes neither has the advantage of the other,
thf* liine and expense being nearly the same. Travellers
gOMig by the route through Schenectady, can vary the scenery
by returning on the Rensselaer R. R. being part of the way
in sight of the beautiful scenery of the Hudson ; and vice
versa. . ,^^ . . .
TO MONTREAL AND QUEBEC.
•
I. By Railroad to Saratoga Springs, thence by stage to
Glen's Falls or v'a Sandy Hill to Whitehall. See p. 83.
Passengers by diverging to Glen's Falls, thence to Cald-
well, where the steamboat is taken to the foot of Lake
George, thence by stage to Ticonderoga, will enjoy by far
the most romantic and interesting route. During the winter
the stage route continues from Glenn's Falls via Plattsburg
and Rouse's point to La Prairie.
n. From Albany by canal packet boat to Whitehall ; or
from Troy by R. R. to Mechanicsville, thence by boat to
Whitehall. See p. 95.
80
■ -.I
ROUTES FROM ALBANY.
m
This route is the most expeditious and pleasant as regards
comfort, and passes through interesting and beautiful scenery.
HI. By Statje via Troy, the road being on the E. side of
the Hudson, to VVhitehi.'.!.
From Whitehall ^ v "^^u amboat to St. John's 157 m., from
thence by R. R. t( irie 15 m., thence by steamboat
to Montreal 9 m.
IV. By R. R. ail at, via Buffalo, Niagara Falls,
Lake OntariOj the St. i-.awit.ice, &c. See p. 105. ^rr
.»
,^ TO BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS. See p. 105.
By R. R. from Albany or Troy to Schenectady ; thence by
the great line of railroad connecting the Hudson with Lake
Erie, via Utica, Syracuse, Canandaigua, Rochester, and Ba-
tavia to Buffalo 325 m. From Buffalo to Niagara Falls, by
R. R. 22 m.
TO BUFFALO, by Canal, 363 m.
The great New York and Erie Canal, from Albany to
Buffalo affords a cheap and comfortable means of con-
veyance.
TO BOSTON.
By R. R. via Greenbush, Pittsfield, Springfield and Wor-
cester. For a description of this route, reverse that on
p. 246 to 248.
• TO BENNINGTON, VT. '
By Stage to Troy 6 m., Lansingburg 10, Raymertown 19,
Pittstown 23, Hoosick 30, Bennington 38.
TO WHITEHALL.
By Stage to Watervliet 5 m.. Troy 6, Lansingburg 10,
6
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IMAGE EVALUATION
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Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, NY. 14580
(716) 872-4503
>5p J'.
m
ROUTES FROM ALBANY.
Waterford 12, Mechanicaville 21, Stillwater 24, Bemus'
Heights 28, Schuylersville 37, Northumberland 41, Port
Miller 44, Fort Edward 52, Sandy Hill 66, Kingsbury 61, Fort
Ann 65, Comstock's landing 79, Whitehall 77. See p. 94.
''" TO SYRACUSE, 125 M.
Via Sharon Springs, Cherry Valley , and Morrisville,
By Stage to Guilderland 9 m., Dunnsville 15, Dranesburg
19, Esperance 25, Sloansville 29, Carlisle 35, Sharon 39,
Sharon Springs 42, (See p. 107.) Leesville 45, Cherry Valley
61, Springfield 57, Warren 60, Richfield Springs 64, Winfield
68, Bridgewater 73, Madison 89, Morrisville 96, Nelson 103,
Oran 113, Fayetteville 117, De Witt 120, Syracuse 125. .
TO BiNGHAMTON, by Stage, via Schoharie, i33 m. .
TO LAKE GEORGE. 62 M.
By R. R. to Saratoga Springs ; thence by stage via Glenn's
Falls.
TO HANCOCK, MASS. 31 M.
By R.R. to Troy, 6 m. ; thence by stage 25 m. " ~i
TO BURLINGTON, VT. 151 M.
By R. R. to Troy; thence by stage via Lansingburg, Jack-
son, Castleton, and Middlebury.
SCHENECTADY BALLSTON SPA.
83
^ TO THE SPRINGS.
Travellers by the way of Albany take the Mohawk and
Hudson R. R. in a direct line to Schenectady, passing through
a barren district, though elevated and commanding an agree-
able view. By the way of Troy the railroad passes near the
Mohawk r. through a varied scenery, 20 m. to
Schenectady, an ancient town situated on the S. bank of
the Mohawk at the commencement of the valley of that
name. The city is laid out with regularity, and presents
many of the marks of its Dutch founders. It was settled
in 1620, and chartered as a city in 1798 ; in 1690, it was
attacked during the night by Indians, and many of the in-
habitants massacred. It now contains a courthouse, jail, a
market, a lyceum, 2 banks, an insurance company, 9 churches,
various manufactories, and 6784 inhabitants. The hotels
are well kept. Union College, is built on an eminence, in the
eastern part of the city, is surrounded by 250 acres hand-
somely laid out, and commands a fine view of the city and
the Mohawk valley. It was founded in 1795, !:nd has a
president and 10 professors, a library of 13,000 vols., and an
excellent philosophical and other apparatus. The b jildings
consist of two four story buildings 200 ft. long, 2 chapels,
4 halls, dormitories, &c.
The Saratoga R. R. crosses the Mohawk r. and Erie Canalj
by a substantial bridge between 8 and 900 ft. long, and ex-
tends in a northerly direction passing along the banks of the
Ballston Lake and enters the eastem part of
Ballston Spa, an old and celebrated watering place, 31
m. from Albany, containing about 1500 inhabitants, a court-
house, 4 churches, a bank, and 6 hotels of which the Sans
Souci is an old established house delightfully situated. Its
mineral waters, formerly very celebrated, have lost some of
#
saam
84
ALBANY TO SARATOGA.
their properties and are greatly inferior to those of Saratoga.
The oldest and most esteemed fountain, is " the public
well," in the W. part of the village, issuing from a bed of
blue clay and gravel ; the other springs possess the same
medicinal properties.
Saratoga Springs, 7 m. farther, and 38 m. from Albany,
are the most celebrated in the U. States, and one of the
most celebrated in the world. The village is pleasantly
situated on a plain, partly surrounded by a grove of pine
trees. The principal part is built on Broadway, the main
street, 140 ft. wide. It was incorporated in 1816, and con<
tains about 2500 inhabitants, 6 churches, 2 public libraries
and reading rooms, and various mechanical workshops.
There are about 75 hotels and boarding houses, many of
them fitted up in a magnificent style. The price of board
per week is from $10 to $12, and from $1.50 to $2 per day
at the best houses ; at private boarding houses in the village
the price varies from $4 to $12. The United States Hotel, is
centrally located near the r. r. depot and all the princioal
springs, and has accommodations for 400 guests. Ccy^, i
Hdly and Union Hall, situated near the Congress spring in
the S. part of the village are popular and excellent establish-
ments. The American Hotel, Columbian Hotel, Montgomery
Hall, and Adelphi Hotel, are well fumishee^ and afford ex-
cellent accommodations both in summer and winter. There
are several extensive bathing houses near the springs, where
cold, warm, and shower baths can be obtained.
The Mineral Springs which .form the chief cause of attrac-
tion, are situated on the margin of a vale, bordering the vil-
lage on the E. The springs differ slightly in their properties.
There are now within half a mile 10 or 12 fountains flowing
to the surface, of which the most important are. Congress
spring, Washington spring, Putnam's spring. Pavilion springs,
Todme spring, Hamilton spring, and the Flat Rock and High
SARATOGA SPRINGS.
85
Rock springs, and about a mile E. of the village a cluster of
springs named the " Ten Springs" of which the Union spring
near the Mansion House, is the most celebrated. :< rt ( v
Congress spring, much more resorted to than any other,
and of which more is sent away, is in the S. part of the vil-
lage. In the spring of 1842, this fountain was cleansed and
renovated by putting down a new curb, extending down to
the rock from which the water issues, which increased its
gaseous and saline qualities, and restored it to its original
strength. In a gallon or 231 cubic inches of the watei
of this spring, are about 300 cubic inches of gaseous con-
tents. -' '"'*V_;"; -.».■ iTV:- ,?. U.;-'i^.,ii ;<-'.;■/ . -V, ■:«5^.
Washington spring, situated in a S. W. direction from Con-
gress spring, is sparkling and aciduous, with a temperature
of 50 degrees ; a gallon contains 439 grains of solid contents,
and 269 cubic inches of gaseous contents.
Putnam's Congress spring, near the U. S. Hotel, has a tem-
perature of 51^. A gallon contains 361 grains of solid, and
348 cubic in. of gaseous contents.
Pavilioi^ fountain, is brought from an orifice in a rock
40 ft. under ground, and tubed at a great expense. It con-*
tains more carbonic acid, and next to the Congress is more
resorted to, than any other. The quantity of gas which it
evolves is double its volume of water, and myriads of glo-
bules are thrown by it nearly a foot from its surface. It is
very lively and sparkling, and much of it is bottled. One
gallon contains 361 grains of solid, and 488 cubic in. of
gaseous contents.
Iodine spring, a new fountain, located a few rods N. of the
High Rock spring, has a less quantity of iron than any other,
and is valuable to that class of invalids to whom iron is in-
jurious. One gallon contains 294i gmins of solid, and 334
cubic in. of gaseous contents. * ' = ;* .*..
Union spring, one of the celebrated "Ten springs," con-
H
99 ALBANY TO SARATOGA.
tains in a gallon of its water 393 grains of solid, and 318 cu-
bic in. of gaseous contents. i
At what period these springs were discovered is not pre-
cisely known. In 1773 the first accommodations for inva-
lids were commenced near the High Rock spring ; Congress
spring was discovered in 1792. So beneficial have the wa-
ters proved to be, that upwards of 35,000 persons generally
▼isit the springs during the summer season, and when the
houses are full there are at one time 3000 persons. The
visiters are from all parts of the union, and frequently from
foreign countries. The arrivals are sometimes 1500 in the
course of a week, and during the month of August, the larger
houses which are open only during the season, are filled to
overflowing. Some of the smaller houses remain open dur-^
ing the year, principally for invalids.
The waters are useful in many cases of disease, but even
those who are merely recruiting for the season, derive very
beneficial effects from drinking of them. The quantity usu-
ally taken is about three pints before breakfast, and although
most of the springs are private property, no charge^ is made,
except what is voluntarily given to those in waiting. Large
quantities of the water are bottled and sold in the various
cities; it strengthens the appetite and invigorates the sys-
tem. Those seriously affected with disease will of course
take the advice of their physician as to the proper use of the
waters. To those who desire the waters to operate as a ca-
thartic, it is recommended to rise early, and take two tum-
blers, and after a walk or easy exercise, another tumbler
may be taken. Most persons will find this sufficient ; but
if it does not prove so, more may be drank, but never at one
time should more than from 4 to 6 pints be taken. In using
the waters daily not more than from 4 to 8 glasses should
be drank. When the water lies heavy on the stomach,
causing unpleasant sensation, its use shoi^d be
>\
VlClNlTt OP THE SPRINGS.
87
■■ With regard to bathing, the same degree of caution should
be used in its use. Bathing has always been highly recom-
mended by physicians, and the mineral baths of Saratoga
possess unusually invigorating qualities. Many cutaneous
diseases have been eradicated by the use of the sulphurous
vrater, and severe cases of rheumatism have been cured by
bathing in it when it was heated. The best time for bathing
is an hour before dinner, after the morning meal is digested ;
and next to this^ is the morning before breakfast.
Barhyt^s Fish-pond 2 m. E. of the village affords most ex-
cellent sport for the angler ; the trout are very fine.
' Saratoga Lake, a beautiful sheet of water 9 m. long, and
2 m. wide, is 4 m. S. £. of Saratoga springs and 8 m. £. of
Ballston Spa. It forms a favourite resort for parties of plea-
sure staying at the springs, as well as for the angler and the
sportsman, as the lake abounds with excellent pike, perch,
and other fish, and the shores with game.
Another favourite trip for travellers is to Bemua^ Heights.,
the ground of two famous revolutionary battles, and where
Burgoyne surrendered himself and the army under his com-
mand to the American forces commanded by Genl. Gates, on
Oct. 17th, 1777. Gen. Burgoyne's army was probably the
most disciplined and best equipped of any that were brought
into the field during the revolutionary struggle. It was the
General's intention to force his way from Canada, up the
river ^Sorel, through Lake Champlain and George, and the
river Hudson, and join General Clinton at New York. The
Americans though driven before him, cut down trees, de-
Btroyed bridges, and impeded his progress so much, that at
times it occupied a whole day to advance a mile. Burgoyne
had with his army a number of Indians who ravaged the
country in the most horrible manner ] this so excited the
people, that an army of 13,000 men was collected under
Genl. Gates to oppose him. By the middle of September
,.g»B
88
ALBANY TO SARATOGA.
li
the Americans were within 3 miles of the British, on the
Hudson. The latter were now severely pressed for provi-
sions, which had to be brought across the country from Lake
George, and marched on towards Albany. The Americans
met them on the 19th at Stillwater; when the first battle was
fought. It occurred accidentally rather than by design, origi-
nating in a skirmish between two advanced parties in a
cleared field surrounded by the primitive forest, and known
as Freeman's farm. About noon a small party of the Ame-
ricans falling m with the picket-guard stationed in a house
in this clearing, attacked and drove them from it and in pur-
suing them, came upon the main body of the enemy, by
whom part where captured. Shortly after, the fighting was
renewed and became general about 3 o'clock ; it raged with
great slaughter until night, when the Americans retired to
their camp a little to the south. The victory was doubtful;
the British lost between 500 and 600, nearly double the loss
of the Americans, and the relative circumstances of the two
armies rendered it doubly severe. Genl. Burgoyne now
pitched his camp on the Saratoga plains about 3 m. above
the village, within cannon shot of the American lines. r*
Genl. Clinton was at this time attempting to force a pas-
sage up the Hudson, from New York, to reinforce Burgoyne.
Hot skirmishes now took place every day between the two
armies at Saratoga. Sept. 23rd a cannonade was kept up for
three hours, and the field was strewn with the killed.
- The decisive battle of Oct. 7th was fought on nearly the
same ground as the former. It commenced by Genl. Bur-
goyne ordering 1500 men with ten pieces of cannon to force
the left wing of the American array, with a view of covering
a foraging party in that direction. The Americans though
destitute of artillery, promptly gave battle, and the whole
British line was driven back by a tremendous charge. The
battle commenced in the middle of the afternoon, and after
'-Tm:^'
VICINITY OF THE SPRINGS.
89
a sanguinary contest the discomHture and retreat of the
British became general, and nothing but night coming on,
saved them from almost entire destmction. During the
night the British forsook their camp, and commenced their
retreat, but owing to the heavy rains and bad state of the
roads, did not reach their final position, until Oct. IGth. They
then took their station upon the high grounds on the N. side
of FishkiU creek overlooking the meadows bordering the
Hudson. Gen. Gates immediately followed, and posted his
army so advantageously as to completely command the po-
sition of the British. In this hopeless situation, surrounded
by a superior force and nearly destitute of provisions, Genl.
Burgoyne accepted the terms of capitulation, which Genl.
Gates the more readily offered as the arrival of Genl. Clinton
with reinforcemoats for the British was shortly expected.
The articles of capitulation -were executed on the 16th, and
the surrender took place next day at Fort Hardy, on the S.
bank of the FishkiU creek, near where now is situated the
village of Schuylerville. The captured army consisted of
nearly 10,000 men including Indians j and 40 cannon, 7000
muskets, and a vast quantity of tent', and cartridges.
In the last battle Gen. Frazer, a British officer of higl. ..< -jrit
was killed. His remains were buried within a redoubt on
the top of a hill about a mile and a half £. of the battle
ground. ' ^ y,; ^ «. ,
The victory gained was probably the most important during
the whole war, as it restored the hopes of the Americans,
and induced the French to lend their assistance.
Another pleasant trip is by stage to Lake George, 27 m.
abounding in fine scenery.
Niskayuna, the Shaker settlement is on the Mohawk river,
16 m. distant.
Travellers proceeding from the Springs to Niagara Falls
direct, will take the Rail road to Schenectady, and from
h2
90
SARATOGA TO CANADA.
thence by R. R. or canal packet to Buffalo ; or stop at Syra-
cuse, and take the canal packet boat to Oswego, from thence
by steamboat across Lake Ontario to Lewiston, and from
thence by R. R. to Niagara Falls.
TO MONTREAL AND QUEBEC.
.,,„>,
I
Travellers going further north, take the stage to Glen's
Falls and Caldwell, or to Whitehall, via Sandy Hill, or Dun-
barn's Basin on the Champlain Canal.
Glen's Falls, is an interesting manufacturing village on the
N. side of the Hudson, Incorporated in 1839. It contains about
1500 inhabitants, 3 churches, numerous saw mills, and four
taverns at one of which the stage stops for passengers to dine ;
the fare is excellent. On both sides of the Hudson extensive
quarries of excellent black marble are worked ; from which also
superior lime is made. The river is crossed by a substantial
bridge nearly 600 ft. long, resting in the middle on an island
of marble. From the bridge an excellent view of ^he river
and the falls can be had. The falls are formed by the Hud-
son flowing in one sheet over a precipice 63 ft. in height,
and at the base are divided by the rocks into three channels.
A long cave in one of the rocks extends from one channel to
the other. A navigable feeder, connecting with the Hudson
2 m. above, passes through the place, and unites with the
Champlain Canal, E. of Sandy Hill. ' - '
From Glen's Falls to Lake George, 9 m., the road affords
a variety of mountain and forest scanery, connected with
events in the revolutionary and French wars. Five and a half
miles from the falls, on the right hand side of the road, is the
rock near which Col. Williams was massacred by the Indians.
Haifa mile further is the "Bloody Pond," into which nearly
1000 English and French, who were killed in 1775, during
the French wars, were thrown.
■ —~^r ■mtiiimi -
LAKE GEORGE.
91
Cddwellf 3 m. farther, 62 m. N. of Albany, is pleasantly
situated on the S. W. end of Lake George, and contains 693
inhabitants, a courthouse, jail, one church, and four inns, of
the latter of which, the Lake House, is an excellent hotel,
with good accommodations for fishing parties, or parties of
pleasure. To the E. of the village is a range of hills, from
the highest of which, Prospect Hill, a view of the site of old
Fort William Henry, the ruins of Fort George and Fort Gage,
and the surrounding scenery, may be had.
Wo here take the steamboat, for 36 m. up
Lake George, or Iloricon, or Lake Sacrament, as called
by the French, on account of the purity of its waters, which
they were accustomed to use in their churches for holy
water ; it is 36 m. long, and from 2 to 3 m. wide, elevated
243 ft. above the tide water of the Hudson. The scenery
on the shores is remarkably wild and beautiful; its high and
picturesque hills rising, in some instances, to mountain
height. The water is uncommonly clear and transparent,
the bottom, which is of yellowish sand, being visible at a
depth of 30 or 40 ft. The lake is dotted with over 300
islands, some of them being barren rocks rising majestically
from the water, while others are large and well cultivated.
The finest salmon-trout, weighing from 10 to 20 pounds,
silver trout, brook trout, piks, perch, and other freshwater
fish of the finest quality abound. Probably no other lake in
the world surpasses Lake George in beauty of scenery. Its
repeating echo also is very fine.
Fort William Henryj near the S. shore, is still visible from
the ruins of the walls and outworks. In 1757 the fort
was garrisoned by 3000 men, under Col. Monroe; the
French, under the Marquis de Montcalm, made three unsuc-
cessful attacks upon it ; the fourth time, his army being in-
creased to 10,000 men, the English were obliged to capitu-
late. The treaty was shamefully violated by the Indiana
'4
SARATOGA TO CANADA.
attached to the French army, who massacred the whole gar-
rison, with the exception of a few who escaped to Fort Ed-
ward. The fort was razed by Montcalm, and never after-
wards rebuilt. From this point Gen. Abercrombie, with
15,000 men, embarked, in 1768, to attack Fort Ticonderoga.
The remains of Fori George are visible about 80 rods farther
south. •' ' •^' ..' 1 . .1 Ts
Diamond island, near Caldwell, is celebrated for its quartz
crystals, in shape and beauty like diamonds. Twelve-mile
island, so called from being that distance from Caldwell, in
the middle of the lake, contains 20 acres, and is elevated 30
or 40 ft. Tongue Mountain, with West Bay on its W. side,
is about a m. farther. Blcuk Mountain, 2200 ft. in height,
is 5 m. farther on the £. side ; opposite to which is Haif'
way island. Sabbath-day point, 24 m. from Caldwe)l, is a
projection on the W. side, where the English landed during
the French war, and were all killed by the Indians. Ro^ers^
slide, 33 m. is a rock 200 ft. high, with an angle of 25 de-
grees, by sliding down which Col. Rogers escaped from the
Indians during the French war. Anthony's Nose, is a high
rock nearly opposite, so called from its singular shape.
The steamboat lands its pa.ssengers near the village of
Ticonderoga, from whence stages run to the steamboat land-
ing on Lake Champlain, near Fort Ticonderoga ; where steam
passage boats on their route from Whitehall to St. Johns,
touch daily during the season of navigation.
The village of Ticonderoga, is a thriving place containing
2169 inhabitants, 2 churches, and numerous mills. The
outlet of the lake here has a descent of 30 ft. About 2 m.
W. of the town are the upper falls, a beautiful sheet of water.
A ferry crosses the lake to Shoreland, Vt.
Mount Defiance, on the S. side of the outlet of Lake George,
is a bold promontory, about 750 ft. above the lake, and over-
looks ^nd commands Fort Ticonderoga. On this point Gen.
FORT TICONDIROGA.
93
Burgoyne, in 1777, planted several pieces of artillery and
dislodged the Americans from the fort, which before was
thought impregnable. From this point an extensive view is
obtained of Lake Champlain and the surrounding country ;
the ascent on the western side is easy.
Fort TiconderogOj now in ruins, was originally constructed
by the French in 1756. It is on the W. side of Lake Cham-
plain, 24 m. from Whitehall. At the time of its construction
it was considered almost impregnable ; it stands on a little
peninsula 70 ft. above the lake, surrounded by water on
three sides and was defended on the fourth by strong breast
works. Parts of the walls are still standing ; the magazine
under ground is nearly entire. It is 35 ft. long, 15 ft. wide,
and 8 ft. high, constructed of stone, arched. A subterranean
passage, 20 or 30 rods in length, leads to the lake.. Through
this passage. Col. Ethan Allen, of the American army, enter-
ed and surprised the garrison in 1775. Surprising the com-
mandant in his bed, he asked him to surrender ; to whom ?
was asked ; ^' why, to Jehovah and the Continental Congress,
to be sure," was Allen's laconic reply. |
In 1758, the Fort whilst in possession of the French, was
attacked by Gen. Abercrombie, who was repulsed with a loss
of 2000 men. On the approach of Gen. Amherst, in 1 59,
it was evacuated by the French, as was also Crown Ifoint.
It was retained by the British until its capture by Col. Allen
in 1775. It was again captured by the British under Gen.
Burgoyne, in 1777, who erected a battery on Mt. Defiance,
which commands the fort. It remained in their hands until
the close of the war j since then it has been suffered to go to
decay, and is now annually visited by great numbers of tra-
vellers. The Hotel near the fort is delightfully situated, and
has excellent accommodntions.
Travellers going to Montreal and Qmhec^ can either take
the steamboat through Lake Champlain to St. Johnh^ thence
...jf^si^j
94
SARATOGA TO CAITADA.
by railroad to Montreal, see description on p. 96 ; or, return by
way of Saratoga Springs, thence by railroad to Niagara Falls,
from thence, up Lake Ontari6 and the St. Lawrence to Mon-
treal, &c. ; or, they can go one way and return by the other
and enjoy both routes, though to continue on is preferable.
FROM SARATOGA SPRINGS TO WHITEHALL. , >
By stage from the springs to
Sandy Hill, 19 m. situated on very elevated ground on the
E. bank of the Hudson, immediately above Baker's Falls, a
perpendicular fall of 50 ft. which in addition to a fall of 12 ft.
above, affords great water power. The streets are laid out
in the form of a triangle, with a common of that shape in
the centre of the village. It contains a courthouse, jail, 3
churches, and about 1000 inhabitants. A navigable feeder
of the Champlain canal 1 m. distant, passes through the
place. The Saratoga and Washington H. R. when completed,
will run through from Saratoga to Whitehall, 40 m.
A daily line of stages run from Saratoga to Danhem's Ba-
sin, 2 m. £. on the Champlain canal, connecting with canal
packets to Whitehall.
Fort Ann, 10 m. N. forms one of the chain of fortified
points between Lake Champlain and the Hudson r.
Whitehall, 40 m. from Saratoga, 72 m. N. of Albany, is
finely situated for commerce by the lake and canal, but in a
low and unpleasant situation. It was incorporated in 1820,
and now contains 2 churches, one banking house, 4 hotels,
and 3813 inhabitants. Numerous sloops, steamboats, and
canal boats, are connected with the trade of the town. Two
daily lines of canal packets leave for Troy and Albany, and
two daily lines of stages, one passing on each side of the
river. Two daily lines of stages ^un to Saratoga springs, in
the summer months ; a daily line runs to Rutland, Vt. in-
tersecting stage lines running to Boston, &c. ; and during the
ALBANT TO CANADA.
95
IS
close of navigation, a daily line runs to Burlington and Mon-
treal. A line of excellent steamboats, run during the season
of navigation to St. John's, Canad^ stopping at intermediate
places on Lake Champlain. * ^
For continuation of this route see p. 96.
SHARON SPllINGS, N. Y.
t
These Springs, described on p. 107, are by* many preferred
to those of Saratoga. Passengers leave Albany in the morn-
ing for Canajoharie, and arrive at the Springs in time for
dinner. The Pavilion is a splrndid house.
FROM ALBANY OB TROY TO MONTREAL AND QUEBEC ;
^s^>-
by R. R, and canal packets.
' Passengers by this the most comfortable and expeditious,
route take the canal packet at Albany, and continue through
to Whitehall ; or they go by stage or steamboat to Troy, and
thence by canal or stage route to Whitehall. Fare $4.62.
By canal route after leaving Albany we pass through West
TroTfj and Cohoes Falls. At the latter place the Mohawk r.
partly confined between lofty barriers of rock, has a perpen-
dicular fall of 40 ft. and including the descent above, of 70 ft.,
presenting a sublime and grand scene. The Troy and Sche-
nectady R. R. passes through the place. Here also the Erie
canal joins the Champlain canal, having in the space of three
quarters of a mile 17 locks, and presenting a busy aspect.
Waterford^ on the N. side of the Mohawk at its junction
with the Hudson, is a thriving place, and contains 4 churches,
a bank, and 1824 inhabitants. It is connected with Lansing-
burgh by a bridge 800 ft. long, across the Hudson, which
cost $70,000. The Troy, and Saratoga R.R. passes through
the town. Mechanicsville, 8 m. farther, is a small manu-
facturing village.
Hi
w-
&6.
LAKE CHAMPLAIN.
Stillwater^ 4 m. farther, is an old and quiet settlement, in-
corporated in 1816. In the N. part of the town is situated
Bemus' Heights where Gen. Burgoyne was defeated by the
American aTvn!f under Gen. Gates in 1777. See p. 87.
SchuylervilUj 14 m. farther, Fort Miller ^ 4 m. and Foi't
Edward 5 m. aref interesting localities on the route before
reaching Sandy Hill, 5 m. For continuation of the route to
Whitehall, see p. 94.
From Whitehall, we take the steamboat up Lake Cham-
plain to St. Johri*s. ' ^:* ''":"'''
Lake Champlain, lying between New York and Vermont,
is 140 m. long from N. to S. varying in breadth from half a
m. to 14 m. The lake for 20 m. from Whitehall to the S.
part of Orwell, Vt. has the appearance of a river averaging
about half a mile in breadth. To the N. of this it gradually
pxpands to a width of 3 m., still increasing fiorthward, until
above Burlington it increases to 14 m., its widest part. Its
outlet is Sorel or Richelieu r. 60 m. long, which enters the St.
Lawrence, 45 m. below Montreal. It is navigable for large
vessels 24 m. to St. John's, below which the navigation is
interrupted by the Chambly rapids. The lake abounds with
salmon, salmon trout, sturgeon, and other excellent fish} it
is generally frozen ever in the winter and is passable on the
ice. The excellent accommodations of the steamboats, the
picturesque scenery on the shores of the lake crowned by
lofty mountains, and the interesting localities celebrated in
the former and late wars, render this excursion delightful.
Near the centre of the lake, the large expanse of water, bor-
dered by the most picturesque scenery, with the Green Moun-
tains on the E. and the high peaks of the Adirondack group
on the W., form grand and romantic features of lake scenery.
Numerous rivers flow into the lake, many of them having
falls of great beauty. It is dotted with numerous islands, the
largest of which. Grand island, is divided into two parts, N.
iL
LAKE CHAMPLAIN CROWN POINT.
97
"K.
and S. Hero. The lake is connected with the Hudson on the
S. by the Charaplain canal, and with the St. Lawrence on the
N. by the Charably canal.
Fort TiconderogOj (described on p. 93,) is the first landing
place. On the opposite or £. side of the lake, are the remains
oi Fort Independence. , -.,-:..
Shoreham, 2 m. from Ticonderoga, Bridport, 9 m. and
Chimney point 6 m. further are all landing places on the £.
shore. . - -^
Crown Point, on the W. side, 18 ni. N. of Ticonderoga,
is a peninsula of solid rock, covered with a thin layer of earth.
The fortress which has rendered this point so interesting,
though formerly one of the strongest in No. America, is now
dilapidated, and in ruins. It was built by the French in
1731, and called Fort St. Frederick. It was abandoned by
them in 1759, on the approach of the British under Gen. Am-
herst, and retained by them until May 10th, 1775, when it
was captured by the Americans under Seth Warner, on the
same day that Ticonderoga was surprised by Col. Allen. In
1776 it again fell into the, hands of the British, who retained
it until the capture of Burgoyne, in 1777, It is situated 47 ft.
above the level of the lake ; its form and dimensions can still
be traced. It was of an irregular pentagon shape, with ram-
parts strongly riveted with solid masonry, and a double row
of stone barracks, with a drawbridge, and a covered way
leading to the lake. The whole was surrounded by a ditch,
blasted out of the solid rock, and cost about two millions
sterling. The surrounding scenery is beautiful. The village
oi Crown Point is a small place, with one church.
Port Henry on the W. contains some valuable iron mines
•worked by the Port Henry Iron company.
Westport, 54 m. N. of Whitehall, is a thriving place con-
taining several mills and forges, and connected with the E.
ghore by a ferry. : > . ;-.: ^ ; . ; %;,
7 I
K,
popilPj
.*
ALBANY TO CANADA.
Fort Cassin, 61m. from Whitehall, on the E. side of the
lake, is situated near the mouth of the Otto r., which is navi-
gable 5 m. to Vergennes. -. ,
Split Rock, nearly diagonally opposite, is one of the great-
est natural curiosities on the lake. It consists of a rocky
promontory projecting into the lake about 150 ft. and receives
its name from the end portion of it being detached from the
main rock ; of which it has evidently at one time formed a
portion, as the prominences of the one side correspond with
the cavities of ^he other. The detached part contains about
half an acre, covered with trees and separated from the
main rock by about 20 ft. ; through this fissure a line has
been let down to the depth of 500 ft. without reaching bottom.
Essex, on the W., 68 m. from Whitehall, is handsomely
situated, and extends for 3 m. It contains several churches,
a number of stores, and many good dwellings, surrounded
with gardens. It is connected by a ferry with Charlotte
Landing on the opposite side of the lake, which is here 3 or
4 m. in width. Mount Marcy, one of the peaks of the Adi-
rondack group, is seen rising to the height of 5,467 ft.
Burlington, Vt. on the E. side, 82 m. N. of Whitehall,
and 75 m. S. of St. John's, Canada, is a beautiful town,
the largest in the state, and the finest for its extent, in the
U. States. It is built upon a bay between two points of land ;
the shore in the S. part is low, but to the N. it becomes
elevated j from this bank a powerful battery once maintained
an action of half an hour, with a British naval force on the
lake. In the S. part the ground rises by a gradual ascent
for a mile until it attains an elevation of 281 ft. above the
level of the lake. The streets are regularly laid out, with a
public square near the centre, in which the courthouse is
built, and is surrounded with fine stores, and the principal
hotels. The dwellings are neat and handsome, with gardens
and shrubbery attached. The public buildings are spacious
BURLINOTO N — P O R T KENT.
09
and elegant. The University of Vermont on the highest ele-
vation has four spacious edifices, a president and five pro-
J"es8ors, and a library of about 10,000 vols. ; it was founded
in 1791.
Burlington contains a courthouse, jail, 2 banks, 6 churches
some very handsome, an Episcopal institute, numerous stores
and factories, and a population of 427 L The harbour is the
best on the lake,' and is defended from the west winds by a
breakwater, to be 2000 ft. long, erected by the U.S. govern-
ment. The light house in the form of a truncated cone on Ju-
niper island was erected in 1826 ; it is 30 ft. high, 18 ft. in dia-
meter at the base, and 12 ft. at the top, and is kept lighted in
the night, during the season of navigation. The lake is here
10 m. broad, which is its widest part unobstructed by islands.
The commerce of Burlington, both by the lake, and with the
fertile back country is very extensive.
The view to be had from the cupola of the University is
beautiful and sublime. The lake with its bays, and islands,
and numerous vessels, — the village sloping gently from the
shore — the beautiful windings of the Winooski or Onion
river — the lofty Adirondack Mountains of New York, and
the elevated summits of the Green Mountauis in the rear of
the town, all meet the delighted vision in succession.
A steamboat crosses from here to Port Kentf 10 m. and to
Pia//s&Mrg 12 m. farther. '^ -
Port Kent is beautifully situated, commanding a beautiful
view of the lake and its scenery. About 4 m. to the W. of
Port Kent, is the village of Keeseville, situated on both sides
of the Sable r. which affords great water power. It contains
about 2000 inhabitants, 4 churches, a bank, and numerous
factories. At Birmingham^ about 2 m. below Keeseville the
Au Sable river falls over a precipice about 80 feet in height,
below which the river becomes narrower and again falls
ever a high precipice and enters a deep ravine of singular
100
ALBANY TO CANADA.
r..,-'--
,-•-
and romantic beauty. The whole fall is about 150 ft., below
which the river has an average width of 50 ft. and flows for
about 2 m. between perpendicular walls of rock from 75 to
150 ft. in height. The whole forms scenery of the most pic-
turesque character, and is a natural curiosity well worth
"seeing.
Plattsburgh, on the W. side of the lake, 107 m. from
Whitehall, is the capital of Clinton co. It is situated on both
sides of the Saranac r. at the head of Cumberland Bay formed
by Cumberland head peninsula which extends nearly 3 m.
into the lake. The town was incorporated in 1815, and now
contains the county offices, a bank, an academy, a lyceum, \ .
4 churches, numerous mills and factories, and 5 taverns.
The Saranac has a succession of falls creating a great water
power. The surrounding country is rich in agricultural and
mineral resources. Plattsburg is an U. S. military post, and
the government have erected a breakwater for the protection
of the harbor, and extensive stone barracks.
Plattsburgh was rendered celebrated by the brilliant vic-
tory of McDonough and Macomb, over the naval and land
forces of the British, under Prevost and Downie, during the '
last war. The battle was fought on Sunday Sept. 1 1th, 1814.
The naval engagement took place in front of the village. The
American naval forces were commanded by Commodore
McDonough, and consisted of 86 guns and 820 men; the
British naval force consisting of 95 guns and 1050 men was
commanded by Commodore Downie. The American vessels
were anchored in the ba} awaiting the arrival of the British
fleet, which appeared passing Cumberland Head at about 8
o'clock A. M. After a sharp engagement of about two hours, •
in the early part of which Com. Downie was killed, the
British fleet was captured. The American land forces under
Gen. Macomb consisted of 1500 regulars and 2500 militia,
opposed to 14,000 of the best land forces of the British undar
»■
PLATTSBUR G A L B U R G.
101
ar
Sir George Prevost. The first gun fired by the fleets, which
were in full view from the shore, was the signal for attack
on land. Sir Geo. Prevost furiously assaulted the defences
of the town, but was gallantly repelled by Macomb and his
4000 men mostly undisciplined, until the capture of the fleet,
when he was obliged to retire, with the loss of 2500 men,
besides considerable baggage and ammunition.
Com. Downie who fell in the engagement was a brave and
skilful officer. His remains and those of the other oflicers
who fell in the encounters on land and water, were interred
in the churchyard at Plattsburgh, without any permanent
memorial being erected at the time. A number of years
afterwards Mary Downie a sister-in-law of the commodore
erected a monument over his remains. In 1843 a public
meeting was held, and on the anniversary of the battle, mar-
ble monuments with appropriate inscriptions were erected
by the citizens at the several graves, amid appropriate cere-
monies. A ride over the battle fields, and a visit to McDo-
nough's farm, will prove pleasant occupations for the visiter
at Plattsburgh.
Between Crab or Hospital Island and Cumberland Head is
where the naval action was fought, ^^r vf ... ;
Grand Islcj formed of the islands North and South Hero
are under the jurisdiction of Vermont. ' ' : iS' , ri •■:
Chazy, 123 m. from Whitehall, is the next steamboat land-
ing on the W. side.
To the E. of this is Isle au Mott, 6 m. long and 2 m. wide.
It contains a valuable marble quarry, and a fertile soil. It
forms one of the townships of Vermont and contains a popu-
lation of 435. Farther E. is
Alburg, Vt. a point of land projecting S. into Lake Cham-
plain ; it is level, low and fertile. The town is on the E.
side ; a short distance N. are the Alburg Springs which have
proved efficacious for the cure of scrofula and other diseases.
i2
.Jif'
#
102
ALBANY TO CANADA.
There are several stores and mills, and a pop. of 1344. N. E.
of this is a large body of water called
-f- ^ Missisqui Bay lying mostly in Canada N. of the 45th de-
gree of N. latitude. ^^ :v r-Kj; ^ .,^ Arvi: : ^
Rouse's Pointy the last landing before entering the Canadian
■waters, is 25 m. below St. John's and 132 m. from Whitehall,
on the W. side of the lake. The village contains a church
and about 125 inhabitants. A little N. of the village is
The Boundary Line between the U. States and Canada,
indicated on the E. by a long line of road cut through the
forest. Below the line is a strong fortress commenced by
the U. S. government in 1815, but by the decision of the
commissioners appointed by the treaty of Ghent, it was
found to be N. of the 45th degree of N. latitude, and the
works were abandoned by the United Slates.
By the Ashbnrton and Webster treaty, concluded at Wash-
ington in 1842, it was given up to the U. States. It is in the
form of a round tower built of stone, pierced for several tiers
of guns and has so far cost $400,000. It is in a very dilapi-
dated condition, and serves now only to point out the line of
division between the two countries, but in case of war it
w^ould be of vast importance, as it commands the navigable
channel of the lake, which here narrows to a mile in width.
After entering the Canadian waters, we pass Ash Island
4 m. N. of Rouse's Point, and here enter upon the Richelieu
or St. John^s River, the outlet of Lake Champlain, about half
a mile wide. The shore on both sides of the stream, for a
number of miles presents a low and flat surface, being almost
level with the water. Our next stopping place is at the
I Isle aux Noix, 12 m. N. of Rouse's Point. Here the British
have a strong fortification occupied by their troops, and com-
manding the channel of the river. A custom house officer
comes on board on the upward trip, and on the return the
permits are required to be shown. The baggage of the pas-
ifts^
ST. JOHN'S — LA PRAIRIE.
103
sengers is inspected before being removed on shore at St.
John's, and a duty levied on all articles not admitted free.
The troops under Generals Schuyler and Montgomery, in the
expedition against Canada in 1775, came down the lake on
rafts and landed at this island, from whence they proceeded
to St. John's. The other detachment, under Genl. Arnold
marched by land through Maine, then a wilderness, to
Quebec. '* ■•--"' ■•»' -t /i^.fj-.^fi^y
St. John's or Dorchester^ 157 m. from Whitehall, 23 m.
N. of the boundary line, and 24 m. S. of Montreal, is at the
head of steamboat navigation on the Richelieu river. It is
well situated on the W. side, and connected with St. Atha-
naise village by a bridge. It contains about 2000 inhabitants,
3 churches, a custom house and soldiers' barracks, and 10
hotels, of which Mann's, Morehouse's, and Mrs. Watson's
are considered the best. It is a place of considerable busi-
ness, though containing nothing in its appearance interesting
to a stranger. It was an important post during the French
and Revolutionary wars; in the latter it was taken after a
gallant defence, by Genl. Montgomery ; as was also Chambly.
The Chambly Canal, completed by the Provincial govern-
ment in 1843 at a cost of $400,000, extends 12 m. from St.
John's to Chambly, on the N. W. side of the Richelieu river.
It has a descent of 90 ft. in 10 m. through 9 locks 120 ft. long
and 24 ft. wide, with a lift of 10 ft. each. It forms an im-
portant link in the water communication from New York to
Quebec, affording navigation between Lake Champlain and
the St. Lawrence river., w. ;^ •-.==.;,. ■-•iis;.::^/'^-*!-?: } fi.: i^ .^ ■:>.' r.- >;.
From St. John's we lake the cars of the Champlain and
St. Lawrence R. R. over a level section of country for 16 m.
to La Prairie; usual fare $1,00, second class cars 50 cts.
As we approach the St. Lawrence the view of the river
and its scenery becomes truly grand and interesting. This
great river forms the outlet of the five great lakes or inland
104
ALBANY TO CANADA.
seas of N. America, and after a course of 2000 m. flows into
the gulph of St. Lawrence, receiving the drainage of over
500,000 sq. m. With the middle of the lakes through which
it passes, it forms the boundary between the U. States and
Canada, until it intersects the 45^ of N. lat. If we consider
it, as it should be, in connexion with the chain of lakes of
which it is the outlet, it is one of the largest rivers in the
world, its entire course, from its source to its mouth, maybe
estimated at 2000 m. It receives different names in differ-
ent parts of its course. Between Lakes Superior and Huron, it
is called the St. Mary ; between Lakes Huron and Erie, the
St. Clair and Detroit ; between Lakes Erie and Ontario, the
Niagara; and from Ontario to Montreal, it is sometimes
called the Iroquois, though from Lake Ontario to its mouth it
is usually the St. Lawrence proper. Besides traversing Lakes
Superior, Huron, Erie, and Ontario, the Lake St. Clair and
some similar sheets of water are mere enlargements of its
bed ; Lake Michigan is also included in its basin, which is
supposed by Darby to contain ^' more than the half of all the
freshwater on this planet." The river varies in breadth from
i a mile to 3 m. above Quebec ; but below Quebec it in-
creases in width rapidly, until about 350 m. from it, it is nearly
100 m. across. Its average fall is about 6 inches a mile, but
this is very unequally distributed on account of the many,
and in one instance stupendous, cataracts, mpids, &c. on its
route. It receives numerous tributaries, many of them large,
and is remarkable for its uniformity, and for the clearness of
its waters. It is a great commercial thoroughfare, its banks,
and those of its lower lakes, being studded with flourishing
cities and towns. It is navigable for ships of the line 400 m.
to Quebec, and for ships of 600 tons to Montreal 180 m. above.
There is a continued navigation for vessels of a medium bur-
den from the head of Lake Huron to Kingston on Lake On-
tario, and from Montreal to the mouth of the St. Lawrence.
ALBANY TO BUFFALO.
105
The water communication between Kingston and Montreal
is effected chiefly by a chain of canals. Strong tides prevent
the St. Lawrence being covered with compact ice below
Quebec ; but the enormous masses driven in every direction
by the winds and currents render that portion unnavigable
for nearly half the year. The lakes are generally frozen
only to a number of miles from the shore, not sufRcient to
stop commercial intercourse.
From La Prairie we take the steamboat to Montreal 8 m.
Towards the W. are seen the Lachiue rapids, one of the
most dangerous on the river. As we approach Mojitreal the
city with its spreading mass of well built stores and dwell-
ings, — the spires of the churches, most conspicuous amongst
which is the grand French Cathedral — the shipping — and its
line of noble stone wharves, — favorably impress one's mind
of the city which he is appcoaching.
Oi^- For continuation of the route and description of Mon-
treal, see p. 169.
FROM ALBANY TO BUFFALO, NIAGARA FALLS, ETC.
By this route the traveller passes through a rich and fer-
tile country cultivated to a high degree, studded with nu-
merous large and beautiful towns, the intervening portions
thickly settled with a wealthy population ; and the whole
with its smiling fields, its handsome towns, and beautiful
scenery, presenting to the view one of the finest portions of
the United States.
Usual time from Albany to Schenectady, 1 h. fare 60.
Schenectady to Utica, 5 h. 30 m. fare 3.00.
Utica to Syracuse, 3 h. 30 m. fare 2.00.
Syracuse to Auburn. 2h. fare 1.00.
Auburn to Rochester, 6 h. fare 3.00.
2.50.
$12.00.
Rochester to Buffalo, 5 h.
m
1
Total time from Albany to Buffalo, 24 h. fare
100
TO BUFFALO) N I A G A R A, EtC.
By railroad from depot in Maiden Lane every morning and
evening, to Schenectady 16 m. from Albany, and 20 m.
from Troy — time 1 h. See p. 83.
From Schenectady besides the R. R., commodious Canal
Packet boats run to Utica, aflbrding a cheap and comfort-
able conveyance ; but the R. R. all the way through is more
preferable for speed and pleasant travelling ; the whole route
possesses much interest^ exhibiting a scenery unusually rich
and diversified.
* The cars on leaving Schenectady cross the Erie canal and
Mohawk r. by substantial bridges, then passing along the N.
side of the Mohawk. Hoffmanns 9 m. and Cranesville 3 m.
are small towns.
Amsterdam^ 4 ro. contains a bank, 4 churches, and about
1700 inhabitants. A creek passing through the village, falls
over a number of beautiful cascades, affording water power
for mills. The river is crossed by a substantial bridge con-
necting the village with Port Jackson on the opposite side.
Large quantities of line limestone aro annually quarried in
the vicinity. ' • '
Stages leave Amsterdam daily for the Fish Housej on the
Sacondaga r. and other places on the N. About a mile from
Amsterdam on the S. side of the railroad, and a mile farther
on the N. side are two large stone mansions of the Johnson
family ^rlebrated in the early history and Indian wars of
this part of the country.
At Trihe^s Hill 5 m. the road passes round its b' s?,
through an extensive excavation of toc\ affording a fine rror,
pect of the Mohawk valley, the outlet of Schoharie i >3fk,
the dam and bridge across the same, and the Erie canal.
) Fondoj 6 m. is a pleasant county seat, containing a hand-
some counnonse. Johnstown 4 m. N. is an old town settled
by Sir Wm, Job i^^n, and connected with Fonda by stages.
Spvaker's J* m , -,nd tu j Nosv. a short distance farther are
i
SHARON SPRINO ^ — LITTLB FALLS. 107
the next points on the roa(* Here (ha passage becoi
contracted by bold and lofty mountains.
Pcdatine bridge 3 m. connects wiih 'he thriving viliagr* of
Canajoharie on the S. side of the river. The Erie canal
passes through the centre of the village.
SiiM'jN Springs, nearly 12 m. S. of Canajoharie is a de-
!.7Tlitinl Mimmer retreat. The springs of pure clear water
much resembling the White Sulphur springs of Virginia, are
ii.<,hly efRcacious in rheumatic, cutaneous, and dyspeptic
complaints and possess medicinal properties unsurpassed in
the United States. The rides amidst the romantic scenery,
visits to the caves and neighboring villages, together with
the splendid view from the Pavilion House, and the excelle it
fishing in Otsego lake, are the chief points of attraction,
besides the springs. Coopcrstown, near the outlet of the lake,
is most delightfully situated amidst beautiful scenery.
Fort Plain 3 m. is a flourishing little village on the S. side
of the Mohawk, from whence stages run daily to Cherry
Valley, Cooperstown, and Sharon Springs. Here the valley
again widens, aflfording a charming view of hill and dale,
until reaching the mountain scenery near Little Falls ; this
is by far the most interesting portion of the route.
Palatine Church 3 m. and St. Johnsville 3 m. are small
settlements.
East Canada creek, 3m. enters the Mohawk, and is crossed
by a substantial bridge. About 3 m. farther on the S. side
of the Mohawk is seen a brick house on elevated ground,
the former residence, and house in which Genl. Herkimer
died from a wound received in a skirmish in 1777.
Within 2 m. of Little Falls the passage of the river is con-
fined within very narrow limits between two lofty and pre-
cipitous mountains Large excavations and extensive em-
bankments have been made to form a passage for the rail-
road until H passes the precincts of the village.
r
11
^1
108 TO BUFFALO, NIAGARA, ETC.
LITTLE FALLS,
7 m. is romantically situated on both sides of the river,
-which has a descent of 42 ft. in three fourths of a mile
chiefly by two long rapids. The village derives its name
from a cataract in the vicinity, which being smaller than the
celebrated Cohoes, has thus received its title. A continu-
ation of the chain of the Catsberg mountains crosses the
river here, through a gap of which the river has apparently
worn a passage of confined breadth, though suflicient to
afford room for a large town besides the canal and railroad.
The village is situated at the termination of the ascent,
between the rushing waters of the Mohawk on the one side
and the rugged cliffs on the other. It contains 5 churches,
an extensive academy, a bank, 5 hotels and taverns, about
2500 inhabitants, and various mills and manufactories driven
by the extensive water power here gained. It owes its
present size to the facihties for trade afforded by the Mo-
hawk river and Erie canal, and is constantly increasing.
The bed of the river is composed of hard primitive gra-
nitic gneiss, above which on the mountain sides, are exten-
sive layers of sand stone and blue limestone. The Erie
canal on the S. side of the river winds its way for some dis-
tance along the side of a bold and lofty mountain, the chan-
nel resting on a wall nearly 30 ft. high, constructed at great
expense. Boats were formerly transported around the falls
through a canal on the N. side of the river ; this is now con-
nected and acts as a feeder to the main canal, by a fine
marble aqueduct 214 ft. long, and 16 ft. wide, which crosses
the river on three arches. ,
Approaching from the E. a lofty ridge of mountains on
either side, conceals the course of the river and the falls,
whose vicinity is announced only by the distant din and
LITTLE PALL S — U T I C A. *
109
le river,
' a mile
ts name
than the
continu-
sses the
parently
icient to
railroad.
i asceut,
one side
hurches,
18, about
38 driven
owes its
the Mo-
sing,
tive gra-
e exten-
le Erie
Dme dis-
le chan-
at great
he falls
liow con-
a fine
crosses
tains on
le falls,
din and
foam of its waters. The village surrounded by high and
almost perpendicular masses of dark rocks, with evergreens
and other trees adding deeper shadows to their sombreness j
the placid stream above gently gliding to the rapids below ;
and the numerous fields and farm-houses, add much to the
general romantic character of the place.
Lines of stages run daily from the village to Trenton Falls
and other places N. and S.
About half a mile from the village the road curves to the
left, presenting a view of the falls tumbling with violence
over a rocky descent of about 80 rods; and continues along
the bink of the river in full view of the rich alluvial vale
called the Herkimer and German flats. This cultivated
region suffered severely from incursions during the French
and revolutionary wars. West Canada creek, on which are
the Trenton falls, is passed near its mouth by a well con-
structed bridge, about a mile E. of tj
Herkimer 6 m. built mostly on two parallel streets, and
contains a courthouse, jail, banking house, two churches, 6
hotels and taverns, and about 800 inhabitants.
Mohawk and Frankfort, are small thriving places on the
S. side of the river, on the line of the Erie canal.
UTICA.
^Svi-'
Utica, 15 m. and 94 W. of Albany, one of the finest places
in the state is beautifully situated on an inclined plane rising
from the S. bank of the river, so as to command from its ele-
vated parts, many fine prospects. The numerous streets are
regularly laid out, of good width, and neatly paved. It is
well built, extensively with brick, and has many large stores
and elegant dwellings.
There are numerous literary, benevolent, and religious in-
stitutions; amongst which are 18 churches, the Utica library,
110
TO BUFFALO, NIAGARA, ETC.
a Mechanics' Association which sustains popular lectures
and has a library and reading room open for strangers, an
Apprentices' library, a museum located in the Exchange
building, two Orphan Asylums, a state lunatic asylum, seve-
ral academies, and others. It also contains a courthouse,
offices for the clerks of the courts, an Exchange, 4 banks, a
savings bank, an insurance company, a public garden, &c.
The New York state lunatic asylum, situated on elevated
ground, about a mile W. of the centre of the city, is de-
signed to have four buildings one of which is completed, and
capable of accommodating 200 patients; a farm of 160 acres
is attached. • v^' iv ;< . . ; ^^ : > *^;r ^^
The Erie canal passes through the city, and is here 70 ft.
wide and 7 ft. deep, passed by a number of lofty and hand-
some bridges, and adds much to its business facilities. Che-
nango canal extending to Binghampton, enters the canal here.
The country around Utica is fertile, populous, and rich, and
it is the centre of an extensive trade.
Hotels ; Bagg's or Bleecker House, Franklin House, Ame-
rican Hotel, and National Temperance House, all on Genesee
St. the principal street in the city. ■' - '
The city is situated on the site of old Fort Schuyler, where
a garrison was kept previous to the revolution. In 1798, a
village charter was granted, and in 1832, incorporated into
a city J it is divided into 4 wards, governed by a common
council, consisting of a mayor and 12 aldermen. Pop. 12,782.
Daily lines of stages leave Utica for Denmark^ 62 m. N.
Watertown 81 m. SackeWs Harbour 93 m. and Ogdenshurg
126 m.; for Binghampton 92 m. connecting with stages to
Owego and Montrose, Penn'a. ; for Hamilton, connecting with
a canal packet boat for Binghampton ; for Cooperstown 44 m. j
for New Berlin, connecting with a stage to Mt. Pleasant,
Penn'a ; and for Augusta, via Clmton. Triweekly stages run
to Ithaca, 93 m. ,.
TRENTON FALLS.
HI
The tourist if he can spare the time should linger for a
day or two and visit the Trenton Falls 16 m. N. E.of
Utica, on the W. Canada creek, in the town of Trenton.
Stages which leave daily for Denmark, pass through Tren-
ton, or private conveyances can readily be had. The creek
rises in the summit of the highlands of Black river, and has
a tortuous course of 6 or 7 miles over a bridge of limestone,
2 m. and a half of which are above the falls. Within the
distance of 2 m. there are 6 cascades and rapids, having
an aggregate fall of 312 ft. Soon after reaching the lime-
stone the motion of the waters is accelerated until they reach
the Upper Falls, where it has an abrupt descent of 20 ft. into
a spacious basin. The whole descent to the head of this
fall in the last two miles is about 60 ft. Here the deep and
winding ravine commences j having an estimated average
depth of 100 ft. and an average breadth of 200 ft. with
shelving and perpendicular sides. Below the Upper Falls
the river then dashes along its rocky bed about a mile
with a descent of 20 ft. more, to the second falls, called the
Cascades, consisting of two pitches, with intervening rapids,
having a fall of 18 ft. The third fall and second within
the ravine, is called the Mill-dam, having a smooth and
regular fall of 20 ft. The High Falls, a short distance
beyond have 3 distinct cataracts with a perpendicular fall
of 100 ft. The chasm here becomes very deep and with
the rocky cliffs and wooded banks, presents a wild and
grand sight. The fifth, or Sherman's Falls have a descent
of 37 ft., from the foot of which the stream less rapidly de-
scends to the sixth or Conrad's Falls of 6 ft., below which in
half a mile the descent is about 15 ft. thus making the entire
descent in 5 m. to be 387 feet.
The falls at different times present varied appearances oc-
casioned by the elevation or depression of the stream. In
floods, the whole is one tremendous rapid, with four cataracts
>
i
r:
TO BUFFALO, NIAGARA, ETC.
and several chutes. A fine hotel is kept near the falls, which
are so secluded and deeply embosomed in the forest, that
no token of the long and deep gorge, through which the
waters rush, is visible until you are on its very brink. A
pathway leads to the stairway which descends to the bottom
of the ravine, along, the strand of which you proceed up the
stream, and then by a narrow winding footpath to Sherman's
Fall. From thence you advance to the High Falls, from the
head of which to the upper end of the race way above the
Cascades, the way is easy when the stream is low, but from
thence upwardly it is more difficult and dangerous, the path
being on the immediate verge of the rushing waters. It is
now protected by chains supported by iron standards let into
the solid rock ; before these were placed here, two interest-
ing females were lost in the flood.
Leaving Utica and pursuing our route westward, we reach
Whitesborough 3 m. a pleasant village containing about
1800 inhabitants, 3 churches, a courthouse, a manual labor
school, &c. The village is surrounded by rich and fertile
lands and settled by an industrious and intelligent people.
Oriskany, 4 m. a flourishing manufacturing town on the
Oriskany creek, contains about 1200 inhabitants, 2 churches,
and 200 dwellings. The Oriskany manufacturing company
have one of the most extensive woollen factories in the state.
. A short distance beyond Oriskany is the place where a
bloody battle was fought during the revolutionary war, and
in which Gen. Herkimer received his mortal wound. Gen.
Burgoyne in 1777, having sent about 1500 troops and Indians
from Montreal to besiege Fort Stanwix, Gen. Herkimer with
800 men was sent to its relief. His party was surprised by
the British forces under Gen. St. Leger, in a narrow ravine,
and were entirely surrounded. Some of the militia fled at
the first fire, but Herkimer with the remnant of his force
ft
ROME — MAN LIU S.
113
gallantly maintained the fight for six hours. The General
was mortally wounded in the early part of the battle but
kept the field to the last. One half of the Americans were
either killed or wounded. The fort was subsequently as-
saulted by Leger's army, but they were driven off by a
sortie and their camp plundered. Afterwards the fort was
summoned to surrender, but Gen. Arnold adopting the stra-
tagem of sending two emissaries from the camp at Saratoga,
to inform St. Leger of the approach of a powerful American
army for the relief of the besieged, he ordered a precipitate
retreat to the Oneida lake, leaving all his baggage behind.
The remains of the fort are still visible near.
Rome 7 m. farther. The village is on the line of the Erie
canal between Mohawk r. and Wood creek, and is hand-
somely laid out with broad streets crossing each other at
right angles, and has two public squares. It contains besides
the courthouse and county offices, an U. States arsenal, ma-
gazine, and workshops, a bank, six churches, and about
2500 inhabitants. Wood creek flows into Oneida Lake and
is connected with the Mohawk by a canal 2 m. long, which
with the Black river canal act as feeders to the Erie canal.
Verona Centre 9 m. Oneida Depot 4, Wampsville 3, and
Canastota 3, are small villages next on the route.
Chittenaiigo 6 m. is 1 m. S. of the Erie canal and connected
with it by a side-cut. It contains 3 churches, several large
factories of water lime, about 1000 inhabitants, and one mile
S. of the village a sulphur spring.
At Cazenovia, 10 m. S. of the Erie canal is the Oneida
Seminary, a theological institution of the Methodists. The
town is built on Cazenovia Lake, and contains 4 churches,
and about 1500 inhabitants.
Manlius, 4 m. is a thriving village S. of the Erie canal, be-
fore reaching * • <
8
k2
,m
TO BUFFALO, NIAGARA, ETC
' SYRACUSE. ;' '
^-:b «'
%
10 m., the capital of Onondaga Co. It is 53 m. W. of
Utica and 147 W. of Albany, situated on the Erie canal at
the junction of the Oswego canal, a mile and a half S. of
Onondaga lake. It is situate in the very heart of the State
of New York, is the central town of the Empire State, and
presents a truly imposing appearance. Its ranges of stores,
its splendid hotels, and its princely mansions, equal perhaps
those of any town of the same age and size in the United
States. Its foundation dates back only about twenty -three
or four years, and it has a population of about eleven thou-
sand, and has been raised to its present importance by the
canals, and Salt Springs in the vicinity. It is the centre of
an extensive district, abounding in agricultural and mineral
wealth. In its neighbourhood are inexhaustible quarries of
gypsum, water lime, and the finest building stone in the
world. It contains the usual county buildings, 2 banks, 8
churches, and 10 taverns. The village and township are
celebrated for the manufacture of salt, made from brine
springs in Geddes, Liverpool, Salina, and other places in the
vicinity. Fine salt is made by evaporation by heat ; and
coarse salt by solar evaporation. The salt works are an im-
portant source of revenue to the State, which receives six
cents on every bushel made ; there are made annually about
4,000,000 bushels. ^« * t
Hotels; American Temperance House; Farmer's Ex-
change, Franklin House, Mansion House, and Syracuse
House, the latter best. Capt. Miller has recently opened a
splendid house 4 stories high, surmounted by a dome, from
which landscape views of great beauty are spread before the
eye in all directions. It stands on the corner of the public
square near the canal and railroad, and contains 140 rooms.
■*■■
:■ 1/
^
ROUTES FROM SYRACUSE.
115
At Salina, li m. N. of Syracuse, is the principal spring,
affording an inexhaustible supply of water yielding to every
40 gallons about a bushel of pure salt. The water is forced
by hydraulic engines, at the rate of 300 gallons per minute
into a large reservoir, from whence it is conducted by wooden
pipes to the various works at Syracuse and the vicinity.
The Oswego Canal from Syracuse to Oswego is 38 m. long
including 20 m. of the Oswego river, and connects the Erie
canal with Lake Ontario. • v. { ..•.
Stages run to Ogdenshurg via Salina 2 m. Cicero 10,
Brewerton 14, Central Square 18, Hastings 24, Union Square
30, Richland 38, Sandy creek 44, Mannsville 49, Adams 56,
Appling 63, Watertown 70, (branch line thence to Cape Vin-
cent 26 m.) Evans' Mills 79, Philadelphia 86, Antwerp 92,
Oxbow 99, Rossie 106, Hammond 112, Morristown 122, Og-
denshurg 133. From Ogdensburg a line continues across to
Plaitsburg on Lake Cliamplain, via Waddington 18, Madrid 27,
Norfolk 35, Massena 46, Hogansburg 60, Fort Covington 68,
Constable 80, Chateaugay 92, Ellenburg 105, Plattsburgh 132.
To Ithaca, via Condiff 12, TuUey 19, Homer 30, Cortland 33,
Ithaca 55.
To Skaneateles, via Geddes 2, Camillus 8, Elbridge 16,
Skaneateles 22. , -, ■» . ,
Progressing W. the route is continued by R. R. to Rochester
104 m., or travellers can take the canal packet to Oswego,
thence by steamboat to the mouth of the Genesee r. 104 m. ;
or by the Erie canal from Syracuse, via Jordan, Weedsport,
Pt. Byron, Montezuma, Clyde, Lyons, Palmyra, Fairport,
Pittsford, and Brighton, to Rochester 99 m.
If the traveller designs visiting Montreal and Quebec, of
the above routes to Buffalo and Niagara Falls, the R. R. route
is preferable as he can enjoy its scenery, and that of Lake
Ontario also when visiting Canada. Route continued on p. 1 17.
■.j..ii^feA: ■.
-^,
116
TO BUFFALO, NIAGARA, ETC.
Travellers taking the canal route from Syracuse to Oawego,
38 m. usual time 7 h. Fare 1.50, can take the steamboat on
Lake Ontario to Niagara Falls ; fare through from Syracuse,
including meals, 4.50 ; stopping at Rochester and Toronto,
and arrive at Lewiston at 10 A. M. in time for the cars for
Niagara Falls and Buffalo. By this route travellers can view
by: daylight Queenston Heights, and Brock's Monument ; the
beautiful scenery of the Niagara, and the British and Ame-
rican forts at its mouth. The steamboats are of the first
class, fitted up in superior style for comfort and convenience.
- I
OSWEGO, ' . . i
i
Is well situated on both sides of the Oswego r. at its en-
trance into Lake Ontario, which is here 60 m. wide. It was
incorporated in 1828, and is regularly laid out with broad
streets crossing at right angles, and is well built. The two
parts of the village are connected by a bridge 700 ft. long.
It contains a courthouse, jail, 7 churches, 2 banks, and about
6000 inhabitants. The harbour, next to that of Sackett's-Har-
bour is the best on the S. side of Lake Ontario. It is formed
by a pier or mole filled with stone, 1259 ft. long on the W.
side of the harbour, and 200 ft. on the E. side, with an en-
trance between them. On the end of the W. pier there is a
light, and a lighthouse on the hill on the E. side. On the
promontory on the E. side of the river is Fort Ontario, which
occupies nearly the site of an old fort famous in the French
and revolutionary wars. The town fell into the hands of the
British during the late war, but they were driven from it in
12 hours, with loss. " ' ' ■■-' * > 't
Oswego owes much of its importance to its mills and ma-
nufactories for which it possesses great advantages, and to
its extensive commerci^' ntercourse, by means of the lake,
which it has with die Canadas and the west. There is nearly
a mile of wharves and dockage in the harbour, and many
O S W E G — A U B U R N.
extensive warehouses and forwarding establishments. The
tonnage of the port is very great, and daily lines of steam-
boats run to SackeWs Harbour, Kingston, and Ogdensburgh, on
the N. ; and Rochester, Toronto, and Lewiston, on the W.
Stages during the winter run to the above ports and other
places.
Hotels; Oswego House, on the E. side, and the U. States
Hotel, and the Welland House, on the W. side of the river;
all excellent.
Leaving Syracuse by the Auburn and Syracuse R. R. we
pass through Geddes 2 m. Camillus 6, Elbridge 8, and Sennet
4 m. The route is formed by excavations and heavy em-
bankments, and. near Elbridge passes around the side of a
mountain of gypsum, 50 or 60 ft. above its base.
"^: . AUBURN,
26 m. from Syracuse, 173 W. of Albany, one of the most
beautiful and flourishing villages in the state, is situated on the
outlet of Owasco lake, which furnishes a noble water power.
It is not very regularly laid out, but the streets are spacious,
and many of the buildings are large and elegant, constructed
of blue limestone, which abounds in the vicinity. It con-
tains the county buildings, 2 banks, 7 churches, and 5,626
inhabitants.
The State Prison, a model of the kind, on the N. side of
the Owasco outlet, was founded in 1816, and cost over
$500,000. The buildings form three sides of a hollow square,
the front of which is 276 ft. long, and wings extending W.
242 ft. long and 45 ft. wide. The N. whig is divided into
solitary cells and a hospital, and the S. wing into cells. Be-
tween the two, the yard is laid out with grass plats and gra-
vel walks ; to the W. of this is the yard for the workshops,
part of the machinery of which is turned by water power of
'Htt*
118
TO BUFFALO, NIAGARA, ETC.
the Gwasco outlet. The whole Ib surrounded by a wall
500 feet on a side. There are 770 separate cells, a chapel,
and other rooms. The prisoners labour in silence and are
confined in solitary cells. . tir.r> '.o 'i ^ '
The Theological Seminary, under the direction of the Pres-
byterians is a fiourishing and highly useful institution. It
was founded in 1821, has 4 professors, and a hbrary of 5000
vols. It occupies a large stone edifice, 160 ft. long and 4 sto-
ries high.
Hotels; American Hotel, Auburn House, and Western
Exchange. '
Stages connecting with other lines run to Ithaea 39 m. and
Cortland on the S. and Oswego 41 m. on the N. \
Owasco Lake, on the outlet of which Auburn is situated,
abounds with excellent fish, and is surrounded by rugged and
picturesque scenery; it is 12 m. long and 1 wide.
Cayuga 10 m. is a small village, containing about 300 in-
habitants, situated on the E. bank of Cayuga Lake, which
is crossed by two bridges over one of which the lailroad
passes. Route continued on p. 120.
' ■ '■''•- A TOUR OF THE LAKES.
To those who can spare two or three days, a Tour of the
Lakes of New York, affords beautiful views of rich scenery.
From the village the steamboat is taken to Ithaca at the head
of Cayuga lake, 36 m. The lake is 40 m. in length and from
1 to 3i m. in breadth j it is a beautiful sheet of water bor-
dered by highly cultivated farms and thriving villages, and
abounding with fish of an excellent quality. The steamboat
stops at various landings on the shores, and when within
9 m. of Ithaca, its suburbs become visible, crowning the emi-
nence in the rear of the village.
Ithaca, a beautiful and thriving village is on Cayuga inlet
TOUR OF THE N.YORK LAKES.
110
and
I
> '
U m. from the head of the lake. It is handsomely situa-
ted partly in a valley and the remainder on the hills, from
whence a commanding view of the lake, the valley of the
inlet, and scenery of the most attractive character is to be
obtained. The hills rise on three sides with a gentle ascent
to the height of 500 ft. The streets crossing each other at
right angles and the neat and tasteful buildings, add to the
beauty of the town. It contains the county buildings of
Tomkins co., 6 churches, 2 banks, 700 dwellings, about 4500
inhabitants, and various manufactories. It has great water
power for manufacturing purposes, being watered by Fall,
Cascadilla, and Six Mile creeks, besides the inlet, all of which
have falls. It has also extensive commercial facilities, be-
ing connected with New York by the Seneca and Erie canals,
and with Owego on the Susquehannah, by a railroad which
transports salt, lime, plaster, flour, &c. in exchange for the
coal and iron of Pennsylvania j when the N. York and Erie
R. R. is completed it will add further advantages by furnish-
ing an avenue for the winter trade with the sea board. Lines
of stages also connect Ithaca with the various towns in the
neighbourhood. •
The tourist will be delighted with the picturesque and
beautiful scenery around the village. On all the streams are
cascades of picturesque and sublime beauty. On Fall creek
are three successive falls with a descent of 438 ft. in the
course of a mile. The lower fall 150 ft. in height and of the
same breadth is peculiarly grand. Above this the water is
^ jllected in a dam, from whence it is conveyed to the mills
below by a tunnel 9 ft. square and 300 ft. long, cut through
the solid rock. Beyond this the rocky banks rise on each
side to 100 ft. in height, and the scenery becomes more wild
and rugged. The second fall 70 ft. in height is extremely
picturesque, and falls into a beautiful basin. The other falls
above are also worth visiting.
m
120
TO BUFFALO, PTIAOARA, ETC.
On Six Mile, CascadilJa, and Buttermilk creeks, and
on Five Mile creek, 4 m. S. from Ithaca, are also beautiful
and romantic cataracts. On the Taghcanic creek near Good-
win's point, is a grand fall 200 ft. in height, with banks
360 ft. high.
The principal Hotel at Ithaca, is the Clinton, one of the
largest and most splendid in the state. It contains 150 rooms
and has several porticoes with Ionic pillars.
To Owego by R. R. the route abounds in varied beauties
of simple and grand sc I'nery.
Continuing the tour of the lakes we take the stage to Jef-
ferson ville at the head of Seneca Lake, thence by steamboat
to Geneva 40 m. This lake is one of the most beautiful of
these inland seas, is 40 m. long, and from 2 to 4 wide, is very
deep, and never entirely frozen over. The shores at the head
of the lake are wild and rugged, becoming more cultivated
and interesting nearer its outlet. Fish are not found in such
quantities as in the other lakes, probably on account of its
depth and coldness of its waters. Seneca lake is connected
with Crooked lake by a canal 6 m. in length. Big Stream
point, Starkie^s "point, Rapelyea's Ferry, and Long point are
successively passed ; on the latter is a remarkable tree re-
sembling an elephant in shape. Dresden is a thriving vil-
lage on the W. shore, opposite to which is Ovid, 18 m. from
Geneva. On approaching Geneva it presents a pleasant ap-
pearance, with its college, neat, stores, handsome gardens,
and spires of the churches.
Seneca Falls 5 m. W. of Cajruga, and 15 W. of Auburn,
is situated on both sides of the outlet of Seneca lake, which
has here a fall of 47 ft. over four dams. It was incorporated
in 1831, and contains 5 churches, numerous stores and fac-
tories, and about 3000 inhabitants. In addition to the R. R.
the Cayuga and Seneca canal passes through the village and
connects with the Erie canal at Montezuma.
#
W A T E R L O O E N E V A.
121
Waterloo 4 m. in a handsome village, and similarly situ-
ated. It contains 4 churches, 8 taverns, 1 bank, an exten<
sive wooUea fuotory and about 2500 inhabitants.
> GENEVA, • V
7 m. and 199 W. of Albany, is beautifully situated at
the N.W. extremity of Seneca lake. On the plain at the
foot of the lake is the principal business part of the vil<
lage, above which the plain gradually rises until it attains
a commanding elevation of 120 ft. occupied chiefly by pri-
vate residences. On the side next to the lake, the dwell-
ings have ornamented terraced gardens extending down
the elevated bank, aflbrding a beautiful view of the lake and
country. The village was incorporated in 1812, has seven-
teen streets and an enclosed public square, and containy
2 banks, 9 churches, 600 dwellings, and about 4000 inhabit-
ants. The new Episcopal church is a beautiful edifice. The
Geneva College, under the direction of the Episcopalians, is
a flourishing institution, and has a president and 7 professors,
a library of 5400 vols., a valuable philosophical and other appa-
ratus. The college buildings are well situated on the margia
of the lake, on an eminence in the S. part of the village.
Hotels; Geneva Hotel; Franklin, Railroad, and Tempe-
rance Houses. The accommodations are very good.
Two steamboats ply daily to Jefferson, at the head of the
lake ; connecting with stages to ElmirOj Ithaca, and Corning ;
and at the latter place by R. R. with Blossburg in Pennsyl-
vania, from whence large quantities of coal are shipped and
sent by the Erie canal to market.
Oak^s Corners 5 m., E. and W. Vienna 4m., Clifton Springs
3 m., Short^s Mills 5 m., and Chapinsville 3 m. are small set-
tlements on the route, which is now through one of the finest
sections of the state, well watered and beautifully diversified.
-?)*>•"•"
122
ALBANY TO BUFFALO.
CANANDAlGUA,
3 m. and 222 W. of Albany, one of the most beautiful
towns and delightful places of residence in this rich portion
of the state, is pleasantly situated on a plain of gentle ascent
at N. end of Canandaigua lake at its outlet. The village is
handsomely and in many parts elegantly built, chiefly on
two parallel streets running N. and S. and crossed by others
at right angles, decorated with trees. At the centre is an
open square on which stands the courthouse, and other pub-
lic buildings. It contains a town-hall, 5 churches, the county
buildings, 2 banks, 2 excellent seminaries, and 2790 inhabit-
ants. In the vicinity are a number of delightful villas, with
ornamented grounds, surrounded by a rich and fertile dis-
trict, which combined with the view of the lake, presents a
beautifully varied scene well deserving its expressive Indian
name of Canandaigua, signifying "a chosen place."
Canandaigua Lake, is a beautiful sheet of water, 15 m.
long, and from 1 to li m. wide, lying mostly in the culti-
vated county of Ontario, and presenting on its shores much
delightful scenery. Its waters are deep and clear, and con-
tain excellent fish. Its outlet flows N. E. into Flint creek,
and Anally with those of the neighboring lakes are discharged
through Oswego river into Lake Ontario. '
Hotels ; Blossom's Hotel, and Eagle Tavern.
Victor 9 m. Pittsford 12, Brighton 4, are small towns on
the line of the Erie canal near its intersection with the rail-
road, before reaching
l.f
. ROCHESTER,
4 m., 251 from Albany, and 74 E. of Buffalo. The city is
the capital of Monroe co. and advantageously situated on
#"
i \
-tiSLi.
ROCHESTER.
123
both sides of the Genesee river 7 m. from Its mouth. It was
laid out as a village ia 1812, and incorporated as a city in
1834; it has increased rapidly having more than doubled its
population every ten years; it now contains 20,191 inhabit-
ants. It is handsomely and in some portions, regularly laid
out, with spacious and well paved streets. The houses are
well built, chiefly of brick, many of them elegant, and or-
namented with beautiful gardens. There are several neat
public squares. The parts of the city are connected by
three bridges ; the Erie canal also crosses the river, by a
splendid aqueduct in the middle of the city. Some of the
churches and public buildings are quite handsome. The
city contains a courthouse, jail, 2 market-houses, 6 banks,
23 churches, a museum, a collegiate institute, 2 orphan asy-
lums, a mechanics' and a young men's associations, an athe-
neum, 2 arcade buildings, and an apprentices' library. The
Arcade is 100 ft. front, 135 ft. deep, and 4 stories high ; it
contains the Post office, Atheneum, &c. In the centre is an
observatory from whence a fine view of the country is to be
had.
Rochester owes its extraordinary increase to its great water
power on the Genesee, its connection with the Erie canal,
its connection with Lake Ontario by a beatable communica-
tion, and other. natural advantages. The Genesee in itspas>
sage through the city has three perpendicular falls besides
rapids, which amount to 268 ft. Numerous flour mills are
worked by this water power, which for extent and excel-
lence of machinery are not surpassed in the world. These
iqills are capable of making 5,000 barrels of flour per day,
consuming when under full headway, 25.000 bushels of
wheat per day ; and it is estimated that besides the capital
employed in their construction, it requires $2,000,000 an-
nually to keep them in operation, and that they produce an-
nually to the amount of $3,500,000. Vessels come up the
124
ALBANY TO BUFFALO.
i r
Genesee river from Lake Ontario to Carthage, 2i m. below
the centre of the city, where steamboats arrive and depart
daily, and to which there is a railroad from the city. The
river is beatable above for 45 m., to Mount Morris. The
Genesee valley canal when completed, will connect it with
Olean, on the Alleghany, and thence with Pittsburg. The
Erie canal and line of railroads from Boston to Buffalo con-
nect it with the E. and W. These important artificial ad-
vantages combined with its great water power and the fer-
tile district by ".vhich it is surrounded, will continue to add
to its rapid growth and prosperity; and by manufacturing
the surplus supply of wheat in the western states, add to
theirs also. >
The city is divided into^five wards, and governed by a
mayor, recorder, marshal, and 10 aldermen, who constitute
the common council.
Hotels; the American. Clinton, Eagle, Exchange, North
American, and U. States, Hotels ; and the Mansion, Morton,
and Rochester, Houses. ' ' iil^T* .. ^ «?.. ^i.^v-r ;^'it^^:
The Avon Springs, 20 m. S. in the Valley of the Genesee^
are much resorted to, on account of their efficacy in various
disorders, as indigestion, rheumatism, gout, and all kinds of
obstructions arid cutaneous affections. The village is de-
lightfully situated on a terrace elevated 100 ft. above the
river, on the right bank, commanding an extensive view of
the valley. The Springs are to the S. W. of the village ;
where are also three excellent bathing establishments. The
best Hotels are the Knickerbocker Hall, and Spring Hotel,
near the Springs ; and the Eagle Hotel, and Avon Hotel^ Hi
the village.
Stages leave Rochester daily to Bath, Steuben co. 75 ra.,
via Geneva aiid Dansville, conriecting with stages to Corning
and Elmira. Fare $3.00.
m i I
1 V
ROUTES PROM ROCHESTER.
125
Stages tri-weekly to Oleauy Cattaraugus co., 96 m., via
Avon 20, Geneseo 28, Mt. Morris 34, Angelica 65, and Hins-
dale 90. Fare $4.00. ....
To Oswego 76 m. Fare S4.00.
To Moscow 37 m. via Caledonia 21, and York 30.
The Tourist in leaving Rochester for Buffalo and Niagara
Falls, has the choice of several routes.
I. By Railroad, 74 m. This is the most expeditious and
agreeable route. ... ^ -. *^ -*'
II. By Daily Stage to Lockport 58 ra. via Adams' Basin 10,
Brockport 15, Holley 20, Halburton 24, Albion 30, Know'es-
ville 36, Medina 40, Middleport 46, and Reynold's Basin, 49 j
Fare $2.50. At Lockport take the R. R. to Lewiston 76 m.,
Niagara Falls 82, Buffalo 104.
III. To Lockport by Canal 62 m. fare $2.00, via Brockport
20 m., Holley 25, Albion 60, Knowlesville 67, Medina 71,
Middleport 77, Gasport 82. From Lockport as above. This
is a cheap and comfortable route. ^.v .-.^^
IV. By Steamboat, daily, during the season of navigation,
from Carthage to Lewiston, thence by R. R. as above. By
this route you have a fine view of the lake and its scenery^
but if you intend visiting Canada on your return, one of the
other routes would be preferable in going. ,^^ ^ ,.
By Railroad the route extends W. through the villages of
Churchville 14 m., Bergen 18, Byron 25, to
BcUavia 32 m. the capital of Genesee co. incorporated in
1823, and containing the county offices, a state arsenal, 2
banks, 5 churches, and about 2000 inhabitants. Stages run
from here S. to Wai'saw, and N. to Albion and Lockport.
Alexander AO, Attica 43, Dancn 49, Alden 5i, Lancaster 6i.
1 2
f
126
ALBANY TO BUFFALO.
BUFFALO
■-*,.«•-*
■»' J'ji
Is 74 J and 325 ra. W. of Albany. Pop. 18,213.
Hotels; American Hotel on Main st. j Western Hotel on
Pearl st. ; Mansion House on Main st. near the depot; and
the U. States Hotel, are all excellent houses, of the first class.
There are also The Farmers', and Huff's Hotel, and Pollard's
Temperance House. ' ' ■*-,.: .^ v •,*'.. i >
The city of Buffalo is situated near the head of Niagara
river, the outlet of Lake Erie, and at the foot of the great
chain of western lakes. Its situation at the W. extremity of
the Erie canal and the great chain of railroads from Boston
to Buffalo, and at the E. termination of the navigation of the
great lakes, Erie, Huron, and Michigan, constitutes it the
great gate of the East and the West, and commands an ex-
tensive business. The ground on which it is built, rises
gradually until it becomes an extended and elevated plain,
fifty feet above the level of the lake, furnishing a beautiful
view of the harbour, the lake, Niagara river, the Canada
shore, the canal with its branches, and the town itself. The
city is well laid out with broad and regular streets, mostly
crossing each other at right angles, and well paved and
lighted ; Main st. the principal one is 120 ft. broad and con-
tains some fine buildings. The houses are mostly built with
neatness and taste in the modern style. There are three
public squares handsomely ornamented. •'
The city contains a courthouse and other county build-
ings, surrounded with ornamented grounds; 2 markets; 17
churches, some of them handsome specimens of architec-
ture ; 2 banks, an insurance company, an orphan asylum, a
theatre; and a Young Men's Literary Association, which
has a library of 3500 vols, and sustains an able course of lite-
rary and scientific lectures.
i.l'
BUFFALO,
127
The harbour formed by Buffalo creek, has a depth of 12
or 14 ft. of water, and is protected from all winds; it is so
spacious that several hundred steamboats and other lake
vessels can be well accommodated in it. A bar at the en-
trance of the harbour, formerly prevented the access of most
vessels from the lake j but a mole and pier of wood and
stone, 1500 ft. long, have been constructed by the U. S. go-
vernment and the citizens, which by confining the chan-
nel of the creek, has so far removed the bar, as to freely
admit vesels requiring 8 ft. water. The lighthouse at the
end of the pier, built of limestone, is 20 ft. in aiameter and
46 ft. high, and is an ornamental and useful structure. A
ship canal 700 yds. long, 80 ft. wide and 30 ft. deep, extends
from the creek near its mouth, into the place ; and the Erie
canal is to be extended more than a mile, parallel and with
lateral cuts to the harbour.
The commerce of Buffalo extending westward, 1200 m.
through the chain of lakes or inland seas, employs nearly 60
steamboats, many of them spacious and with elegant conve-
niences ; and 300 schooners and other lake craft. By means
of the Erie canal and Hudson river, Buffalo is connected with
Albany and New York ; and by a continuous chain of rail-
roads with Albany and Boston, by land. A railroad also
connects it with Black Rock, Niagara Falls, and Lewiston. '
Buffalo is divided into 5 wards, and is governed by a mayor
and common council elected annually. It was laid out in
1801, became a military post in 1812, was burned by the
British and Indians in 1813 for which the U. S. government
gave the inhabitants $80,000 at the close of the war, was in-
corporated as a village in 1822, and as a city in 1832. The
commencement of the rapid growth of the city dates from
the completion of the Erie canal, which was finished in 1825.
It has an uninterrupted lake navigation of 1500 m., wuth a
coast of 3000 m. Its great natural advantages, its connec-
128
ROUTES FROM BUFFALO.
tion with the northern valley of the MlssisBippi, its connec-
tion with various places by railroads and canals, must always
tend to still further increase its growth and prosperity.
Poinsett Barracks an extensive cantonment for troops, oc-
cupy a commanding position near the N. limit of the city.
Several companies are stationed there, who parade weekly
for manoeuvre and review. * -
Excursions are frequently made to the Seneca Indian viU
lage; it forms a pleasant 3 m. ride; it is also a delightful
sail to the ruins of Fort Eriej on the opposite shore. / > -
1/
ROUTES FROM BUFFALO.
TO NIAGARA FALLS, AND VICINITY. 22 M.
I. By R. Road via Black Rock 3 m. Tonawanda 11, anc}
Schlosser 20. Morning and afternoon lines from depot front-
ing Western Hotel.
II. By steamboat daily to Chippewa 20 m. on the Canada
side, thence by R. R. 2 m. to Falls; or by S. B. to Schlosser's
Landing opposite, on the American "side, thence by stages to
the Falls. S. B. fare 37 i cts.
For description of the above routes and of the Falls see
p. 143. To go by the one route and return by the -other will
render the trip more pleasant.
STEAMBOAT ROUTES.
■I _.
To Barcelona. 62 m. by daily lines, fare $2.00. ** si ^ v
To Port Stanley, Canada, twice a week. ^'. ■ { n-
To Toledo and Perrysburg 319 m. By daily line, via in-
termediate places, fare $7.00.
To Detroit 372 m. By daily line via intermediate ports,
fare $7.00— see p. 135.
To Chicago 1,047 m. By line leaving every other morn-
K
' "TWTS " "v^ r*'r;j' ■'
ROUTES FROM BUFFALO.
129
ing during the season of navigation, via intermediate places,
fare $12.00. See p. 130.
To Chicago 641 m. By steamboat to Detroit as above
372 m., thence by R. R. to Kalamazoo 145 m. via Dearborn
10, Wayne 18, Ypsilante 30, Ann Arbor 40, Dexter 50, Syl-
van 60, Grass Lake 70, Jackson 80, Barry 86, Smithfield 93,
Albion 99, Marengo 106, Marshall 111, Battle creek 123,
Charleston 133, Galesburg 137, Corastock 141, Kalamazoo
145. Thence by stage via Paw Paw 163, Hamilton 175,
Jlulersville 179, Bainbridge 190, to St. Joseph 200 ; thence by
steamboat across lake Michigan to Chicago. 269 m.
-^H
STAGE ROUTES.
To Detroit, 400 m. via Erie, Pa; Cleveland and Toledo,
Ohio; fare $10.00.
To Batavia 38 m., daily, Sundays excepted, fare $1.00.
To Geneseo 66 m. via Hamburg 12, and Warsaw 45.
To Olean 75 m. via Ellicottsville 49.
To Erie 91 m. via Hamburg 12, Fredonia 46.
To Warsaw 44 m. fare $1.50.
To Lockport 30 m. during the suspension of navigation,
fare $1.50.
9
W ^: if^
>' r- .*.;*< ■
130
TOUR OF THE GREAT LAKES.
A TOUR OF THE LAKES
FROM BUFFALO TO CHICAGO. «
In this pleasant excursion the tourist has an excellent op-
portunity of not only viewing the picturesque and magnifi-
cent scenery of the lakes, but also of visiting the various
thriving towns on the route, and witnessing the extensive
commerce carried on by steamboats, schooners, and other
lake vessels.
LAKE ERIE
Is of an elliptical shape, about 265 m. long, and varying in
breadth from 10 to 63 m. The line of division as settled by
treaty runs through the lake, with the states of Michigan,
Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York, on the S. and S. E. bor-
ders, and the fertile province of Upper Canada on the N. Its
surface is 555 ft. above the Hudson r. at Albany, and 334 ft.
above Lake Ontario. It is the most shallow of the five great
lakes, its mean depth being 120 ft. with a depth in some
portions of 270 ft. It receives at its W. end, through Detroit
river or strait the discharge of water from the great upper
lakes, and from the states and Canada numerous streams of
small size, mosi; of which have bars at their mouths ; it dis-
charges its waters through Niagara river pouring an immense
fiood over the precipice at the Falls. There are several ex-
cellent harbours on the U. S. shore, and but one or two on
the Canada side. In consequence of its shallowness, a part
of the lake is frozen over every winter, suspending the navi-
gation for several months. Its importance as connected with
commerce and navigation, is greater than either of the other
lakes, and is constantly increasing, being connected at Buf-
^//,.
DUNKIRK — EtllE.
131
falo with Albany by the Erie canal 363 ra. long, at Cleveland
with Portsmouth on Ohio r. uy ihe Ohio canal 307 m. long,
and at Port Maitland on Grand r. with Port Dalhousie on lake
Ontario by the Welland canal 434 m. long. It is navigable
for vessels of 125 tons, and for steamboats adapted to lake
navigation. There are now over 300 vessels, many of which
are of the largest and finest class.
Dunkirk, 45 m. from Buffalo, is a thriving town, and has
an excellent harbour. It is to be the termination of the New
York and Erie R. R. and will become an important place.
Barcelona^ 7 and 52 m. is connected with Buffalo by a
daily steamboat. The lighthouse is lighted with gas which
escapes from the creek and is conducted for a mile by pipes
to the shore. » ^ ^ •
Erie, Pa. 38 and 90 m. is beautifully situated on a blnff
on Presque Isle bay. The U. S. government has much im-
proved the entrance to the harbour, by the construction of
substantial piers. The village contains the county buildings,
7 churches, and 3412 inhabitants. Perry's fleet was con-
structed here, in seventy days from the time when the tim-
ber, of which it was constructed, was standing in the forest.
He returned here with his prizes after the battle, and the
vessels now lie sunk in the harbour near the Navy Yard, of
which his flag ship the Lawrence, partly out of water, has
been robbed of pieces to be preserved as relics. On the high
bank to the right and overlooking the town, are the remains
of the old French fort, Presque Isle, overgrown with weeds.
Half a mile beyond is the block house, erected for the pro-
tection of the Navy Yard during the late war. The brave Gen.
Wayne, died here, Dec. 15, 1796, on his return from the
Indian wars; and his remains, by his own request, were
buried beneath the flag staff of the fort, but have since been
removed by his relatives. .; - aa ^
Conneautf 28 m. and 118 from Buffu.lo, is on a ereek of the
132
BUFFALO TO CHICAGO.
same name, in the N. £. corner of Ohio, and contains 3
churches, and 2,642 inhabitants. Its trade is chiefly in lum-
ber and country produce.
Ashtabula, O. 13 and 131 m., and Fairport, 0. on Grand r.
30 and 161 m. are next on the route.
CLEVELA^TD, O.
'*■ 30 and 191 m., is the capital of Cayahoga co. and next to
Cincinnati the most important city in the slate. Pop. 6071.
A small part of the city lies on Cayahoga r. where the land
is but little elevated above the lake ; but it rises by a steep
ascent to a level, gravelly plain, elevated about 80 ft. above
the lake, on which the city is chiefly built. From th.j ele-
vation a view of the Cayahoga r. with its meanderings, the
harbour and the lake with the numerous sail and steam ves-
sels, i^ at once beautiful and striking. The upper portion of
the city is well laid out with broad and regular streets, and
has a public square of 10 acres divided into 4 parts by 2 in-
tersecting streets, and finely shaded. It is well built, with
neat and often elegant houses. The city contains a court
house, jail, 7 churches mostly handsome and spacious edi-
fices, an insurance company, a Lyceum and reading room
which sustain public lectures in the winter, and numerous
public and private schools.
The commerce of Cleveland is very extensive, and con-
stantly increasing on account of its great natural advantages.
Besides its connection with the extent of country bordering
the lakes, it is connected by means of the Erie canal with
New York and intermediate places ; by the Ohio canal, pas-
sing through the entire central part of the state, with the
Ohio r. ; by the Pennsylvania canal, which joins the Ohio
canal at Akron, with Pittsburg and thus with the southern
Atlantic cities ; and by the Welland canal, with the Canada
"t75-
C L E V E L A ND.
133
market. There were in 1842, belonging to the port 75 sail-
vessels and 5 steamers ; the number that arrived during the
year was 2468, number departed 2462. The imports for the
year were heavy, while the exports amounted to $5,851,898 j
of which $1,016,976 went to Canada, for which trade Cleve-
land possesses unrivalled advantages. The principal exports,
aro wheat, flour, corn, pork, lard, butter, beef, cheese, &c.
Cleveland is the great mart where the grain trade of the
largest grain-growing state in the Union, centres. Its water-
power is small, and therefore it is not an extensive manufac-
turing place.
The harbour of Cleveland is one of the best on Lake Erie,
spacious and safe, and easy of access. It is formed by the
mouth of Cuyahoga r., and is well supplied with extensive
wharves and storehouses. There are two substantial stone
piers 1200 ft. long, erected by the U. S. government, 200 ft.
apart. Thrre are two lighthouses, one on the high bank on
the shore, the other near the end of one of the piers.
Cleveland derives its name from Gen. Cleveland of Con-
necticut, who first surveyed and laid it out in 1796. It was
incorporated as a village in 1814, and chartered as a city in
1836. It is divided into 3 wards, and governed by a mayor,
3 aldermen, and 9 councilmen. In 1799, there was but one
white family, settled on the spot, since when it has been in-
creasing slowly until the past few years, when the different
lines of communication with various parts of the country
being formed, it has increased rapidly, and for the same
reason will continue to advance.
There are several Hotels, of which the American is a large
and excellent house.
Ohio city on the opposite side of the river is a thriving
place, and destined at no future day to form part of Cleve-
land. , « J, .. ,
Black River 28 m., Vermilion 10, and Huron 20, are
M
134
TOUR OF THE GREAT LAKES.
each small towns situated on rivers with their respective
names. • -'V ' "*' * '
Sandusky 10 m. and 259 from BufTalo, is the capital of
Erie Co, 0., situated on Sandusky bay, and commanding a
delightful view of the lake. It has 4 splendid churches, 1
academy, and about 300 dwellings, mostly built of stone
from an extensive quarry on which the town stands. Pop.
about 2000.
Toledo, 50 and 309 m. situated on Maumee r. near its
entrance into Maumee bay at the S. end of Lake Erie. It
contains numerous stores, 2 foundries, 2 steam saw mills,
85 mechanic shops, and 2072 inhabitants. A steamboat line
connects Toledo and Perrysburg 18 m. higher up the river,
with Buffalo. A railroad extends to Adrian 33 m. ; and the
Wabash and Erie Canal to La Fayette; the latter is to be ex-
tended to Terre Haute on the Wabash, a total distance of
81m. and when finished will add much to the business of
the place.
Monroe^ Michigan, 28 m. is situated on the river Raisin
2^ m. from its mouth. A ship canal, 100 ft. wide and 12 ft.
deep, is constructed from the city to the lake. The city
contains a courthouse an elegant edifice of hewn stone, a jail,
2 banks, 7 churches, numerous mills and factories, a reading
room and public library of 1500 vols., and 1703 inhabitants.
The city was first settled by the French in 1776, and increased
by the Englrahin 1798. On Jan. 18th, 1813, the memorable
battle of Frenchtbwn was fought near this place, when 700
Kentuckians under Gen. Winchester were ma.ssacr«d by the
Indians, under the countenance of Gen. Proctor, who ordered
the burning of the place. The order was punctually executed,
but was stopped by the interference of the celebrated Indian
chief Tecumseh. A railroad extends west via Adrian 34 m.
to Hillsdale 68, connecting with a line of stages to Niles
161m.
AMIIERSTBUR G — D E T R 1 T.
135
Amheratburg, Can. W. is on the mouth of the Detroit r. and
was fornnerly known by the name of Walden. On the op-
posite side of the river is the battle ground of Brownstown^
where the Americans while on their way to reUeve the fort
at Frenchtown, routed the British and Indian force, with a
slight loss. The regulars were stationed in a narrow pass
with their artillery on a rise commanding the road, while the
Indians were secreted in the woods. The Americans, under
Gen. Miller were nearly surrounded, before the enemy was
discovered. By a vigorous attack the regulars were driven
back and the Indians becoming confused were entirely routed.
The Americans arrived too late, as the perfidious massacre
of the defenders of the fort had already taken place.
DETROIT.
14 m., 372 from Buffalo, and 675 from Chicago by s. b.
route, the capital of the state, is beautifully and advantage-
ously situated on the W. side of Detroit r. on ground elevated
30 ft. above its surface, 7 m. below the outlet of lake St. Clair,
and 18 above the W. ext^' mty of Lake Erie. Pop. 9192. The
city extends for over a mile on the river, and for 1200 ft. back
of it, the plan is rectangular. There are 8 avenues, three
of which are 200 ft. wide, and five others are 120 ft. wide;
five of these centre at a public ground called the grand circus.
The other streets are 60 ft. wide and generally cross each
other at right angles. The houses are mostly of wood, though
many are built of brick, in a neat, and sometimes elegant
manner. •
Among the public buildings are ; the Stc^e Ho'tse^ built of
brick, 60 by 90 ft. It has a portico with 6 Ionic columns,
with pilasters on the sides, and is surmounted by a dome
140 ft. high ; from whence a grand and beautiful prospect
presents itself. The City Hall is a neat edifice of brick, the
ff
13G
BUFFALO TO CHICAGO.
m i
lower Btory occupied by the markets, and the upper by the
courts. Some of the churches are very handsome. St. Paul's
£piBcopal church, of brick, in the Gothie style, has a well
proportioned tower 115 ft. high, and a fine organ. The
"Presbyterian church of brick, in the Grecian Doric style, with a
4 portico of six columns, and a steeple 130 ft. high. The Baptist
C church, on an elevated situation, built of brick in the Grecian
Ionic style, has a steeple 100 ft. high, stnd a handsome dome.
St. Anne's cathedral constructed of hewn granite, in the Ro-
man Doric order, has two steeples in front, ornamented with
iron crosses; in the centre is an octagonal dome, 30 ft. in
diameter and 30 ft. high; it has a splendid organ. The Bank
of Michigan is constructed of polished stone, in the Grecian
style, at a cost of $40,000.
Detroit contains an Historical Society, a State Literary In-
stitute, a Medical society, a Young Men's society for Moral
and Intellectual improvement with a library of over 1200
vols., and a State Library, at the capitol, containing 2000 vols,
to be increased at the rate of $1000 a year for five years.
The city also contains 8 churches, 4 banks with an aggre-
gate capital of $2,250,000 ; 3 markets, a theatre, a circus, a
state penitentiary, a county jail, a government magazine, a
mechanic's hall, and numerous seminaries. The city is sup-
plied with water raised by steam-power from the strait, and
distributed in pipes over the city.
Detroit is well situated for trade, and has already become
a great commercial emporium. The navigation of the river
,and lake is open about 8 months in the year. The arrivals
of vessels and steamboats is about 300 annually.
The city was first settled by the French, in 1683 ; and fell
into the hands of the British in 1760. In 1784, it came by
treaty into the possession of the U. States, who have had a
garrison stationed here from 1796 until recently. In 1802 it
yr&s incorporated as a city, and in 1805 it was nearly de-
DETROIT— LAKE ST. CLAIR.
137
stroyed by fire. In 1812, it was captured by the British, re-
captured in 1813, by the Americans, and rechartered in 1815.
In 1837 a large fire occurred in Detroit, which caused a great
destruction of property.
^ R. R. extends N. W. to Pontiac 25 m. thence by stage
via Flint 61, to Sa^naw 97. A R. R. extends to Utica^ 25 m.
The central R. R. of Michigan extends W. to Kciamazoo
146 m. via Dearbonville 10, Ypsilanti 30, Ann Arbor 40, Scio
46, Jackson 79, Marshall 113, Kalamazoo 146; thence by
stage to St, Joseph^s 200, then by steamboat across lake Mi-
chigan to Chicago 269. s •'• -^ '^•'^■
•-, By stage to Port Huron 59 m. '^ ^^
By stage to Grand Haven 199 m. via Howell 51, Ionia 1 18,
and Grand Rapids 155.
By R. R. and stage to Niles 182 m. By R. R. to Ypsilanti
30, thence by stage via Cold Water 110, and Mottsville 154.
To Chicago 279 m. ] by stage to Niles 182 m. as above,
then via Michigan city 226.
From Windsor J on the opposite side of the river, stages run
to Queenston during the close of the navigation.
Continuing the tour of the lakes we proceed N. until 7 m.
above Detroit we reach
lAKE ST. CLAIR,
The smallest of the chain ; it is 2^ m. long, 80 m. wide, 90 m.
in circumference, and about 20 ft. deep. It receives the
waters of several rivers; one of which, the St. Clair connects
it with Lake Huron. ' '***"
St. Clair on the W. and Southerland on the £. shore are
passed before reaching Lake Haron, at the S. end of which
on the W. side is Fori Gratiotj and Ft. Edward on the E. or
Canadian side. • '-
#
138
BUFFFALO TO CHICAGO.
'- IjAKE HURON, M^if ?-?%*>^^
Is so irregular in shape that it is difficult to determine its
exact dimensions. It is 260 m. in length, with a breadth of
160 m. in its widest part, though the average breadth is 90 m.
Its principal indentations are Saginaw bay^ on the W. shore ;
and Georgian bay on the N. £. 170 m. long and 70 m. -wide,
itself one fourth of the size of the whole lake. There are
said to be 32,000 islands in Lake Huron, most of which are
in the N. and N. £. part, of which the largest is Manitoulin
90 m. long, and 30 m. broad in its widest part. Its greatest
depth towards its W. shore, is at least 1000 ft., and its mean
depth 900 ft. or about 300 ft. below the level of the Atlantic.
It receives the waters of lake Superior by St. Mary's strait,
those of lake Michigan by the straits of Michilimackinac,
and discharges its own waters by the river St Clair. It also
receives the waters of several small lakes. The lake is sub-
ject to violent storms, which render its navigation dangerous.
Though very deep, it is generally shallow near the shores ;
it has some fine harbours. The boundary line runs through
the middle of the lake.
Point aux Barques 130 m. from Detroit, is at the S. entrance
of Saginaw bay; Thunder bay 75 m. further, contains a great
many islands, on one of which is a lighthouse; Presque Isle
30 m. is on the N. £. point of the peninsula of Michigan.
Sault de St. Marie, or St. Mary's Falls, is a settlement on
the American shore of the St. Mary's river, the outlet of Lake
Superior. The village is pleasantly situated on elevated
ground, and contains a courthouse, 3 churches. Fort Brady,
an U. States post, a, trading house of the American Fur com-
pany, and about 1000 inhabitants of a mixed character. The
St. Mary's river 60 m. long, has a total fall in its course from
Lake Superior to Huron of 50 ft., the principal part of which
LAKE SUPERIOR.
139
are the rapids near the village, near three fourths of a mile
loiig, with a descent of 23 ft. It is in contemx)lation to cut a
ship canal around the falls, which would complete the navi-
gation between the lakes, and form an outlet for the vast re-
sources of the country bordering lake Superior.
From Sault St. Marie a steamboat rur^p every other day to
Mackinac, and to the copper mines of Lake Superior.
LAKE SUPERIOR,
The largest of the five lakes, and supposed to be the largest
body of fresh water in the world, is 380 m. long, 130 m. wide
in its widest part, 900 ft. deep, and about 1500 m. in circum-
ference. Its waters are remarkably clear and abound with
trout, wliite fish, sturgeon, and other fish; many of which
are taL*' * d exported. The lake is subject to as violent
storms :o Atlantic, and the navigation is equally danger-
ous. It contains a number of islands in the N. and N. E.
parts, the largest of which is Isle Royalj 100 m. long and 40 m.
broad. It receives the waters of 30 rivers, and discharges
them through the straits of St. Mary. The land on the
borders of the lake is generally sterile, being elevated,
rocky, and in some parts mountainous. The Pictured Rocks
on the shore towards the E. end are a great curiosity. They
form a perpendicular wall 300 ft. high, extending about 12 m.,
with numerous projections and vast caverns, which receive
the waves with a tremendous roar. At one place a consider-
able stieam is thrown from them into the lake by a<^rand
cascade 70 ft. high, and projected so far that boats pass dry
between it and the rocky shore. The Doric rock or arch ap-
pears like a work of art, consisting of an isolated rock of
sandstone with four pillars, supporting a stratum cf stone
covered with soil and a growth of fir trees, some of them
60 ft. high. Recent explorations have discovered large beds
V
140
BUFFALO TO CHICAGO.
of copper in the country S. of the lake, which eventually will
prove of great profit. * <*i<^« ^^^P^-j
Just above Fort William on the Kaministiquia -iver, near
its entrance into the lake, are the Kakabikkia falls; they
have a perpendicu) . descent of 130 ft. and a breadth of
150 ft. ; and in thedirolume of water which they present, in
the roar of the cataract, and the wildness of the vegetation
and of the rocks around, are thought by some to vival the
Falls of Niagara.
Mackinac (pronounced Mackinaw) 295 m. from Detroit is
pleasantly situated on the S. £. extremity of an island of the
same name in the straits of Michilimackinac. It is the capital
of the county, and contains the county buildhigs, 2 churches,
several missionary schools, and a branch of the University
of Michigan. Fort Mackinac stands on a rocky eminence,
150 ft. above the village, which it commands. The harbour
is spacious and safe, capable of accommodating 150 vessels.
More than 3000 barrels of trout and whitefish are annually
exported ; and it is still the mart of an extensive trade. The
air here is cool and salubrious.
Passing through the strait and entering lake Michigan,
Beaver, Fox, and other islands are passed.
.^^i "^^
LAKE MICHIGAN
;)..i
Is the largest that lies wholly witnin the United States and
second only to lakes Superior and Huron of the five great
lakes. It is 330 m. long, 60 m. broad on an averag and
estimated to be 900 ft. deep. The waters are pure and clear
and abound in excellent fish, the trade in which is extensive.
Green Bay is a large inlet on the W. side.
Manifowocj Sheboygarij Washington, Milwaukiej Racine^
and Little Fort on the W. shore j and Grand Haven, Sauga-
.ft^i CHICAGO.
■'i4:t
141
tuck, and St. Joseph's on the £. shore, are thriving and popu-
lous places before reaching
"^ * '^^ CHICAGO, ILL.
675 m. from Detroit, and 1047 from Buffalo. The city is
beautifully built on level ground on both sides of the Chica-
go river, the N. and S. branches of which unite three fourths
of a mile from the lake, in the upper part of the city form-
ing a good harbour ; a bay at its mouth has about 9 ft. water.
Piere have been constructed by the U. S. government on
both sides of the harbour, extending into the lake for some
distance. This rapidly increasing place contains the county
buildings, a U. S. land-office, 6 churches, and 13,000 inhabit-
ants. The city is supplied with water from the lake, and
has several fire and insurance companies. On a strip of go-
vernment land between the city and the lake are situated
Fort Dearborn and a lighthouse. The fort consists of a
square stockade, enclosing barracks, quarters for the officers,
a magazine and provision store, and defended by bastions.
Near the city are vast quantities of white pine and other fine
timber. The country around it is fertile and^ pleasaiit, and
the situation is healthy.
The city is one of the many important places in the U.
States which have sprung up and increased rapidly within a
few years. In 1832, there were but 5 stores, and 250 inhabit-
ants; its present importance is owing to its great natural ad-
vantages, it being the nearest point on the lakes to the Mis-
sissippi river, and to its connection with Buffalo and other
places by steamboats and other vessels. The Michigan and
Illinois canal extending along the valleys of the Chicago,
Des Plains, and Illinois rivers, to the head of steamboat na-
vigation on Illinois r., one of the tributaries of the great Mis-
sissippi, adds much to its increase.
-^■hS*"
It
V „
142
BUFFALO TO CHICAGO.
During the last war with Gt. Britain, in 1812; when the
town was but a name, the garrison of the fort, on the surren-
der of Gen. Hull at Detroit, resolved to abandon it. Shortly
after leaving the fort they were attacked by Indians. They
defended themselves bravely, and only surrendered to a great-
ly superior force, after obtaining a promise that their lives
should be spared ; but after dehvering up their arms several
of the men were barbarously murdered.
Hotels; The Lake House, excellent in every respect.
Michigan City, S. £. of Chicago, is destined to become a
pla»^e of great importance.
From Chicago, routes diverge to the S. £. and W.
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BLACK ROCK.
148
FROM BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, 22 M.
By R. R. to Black Rock 3 ra. passing when about half way
the new fortress erected by the U. S. government. It is
situated on elevated ground, and is of a strength and extent
proportionate to the defence of so important a point. It is
nearly opposite the site of Fort Eric on the Canada side, de-
scribed below.
The village of Black Rock is of some size, containing about
1800 inhabitants. Its harbour is formed by an immense
stone pier or mole, over a mile in length, 50 ft. wide at its
base, and 30 ft. at the top, erected by the state of New York,
at an expense of $300,000, for the double purpose of forming
a harbour for the canal boats entering the lake, and for sup-
plying the Erie canal with water. A dam 165 yards long,
connects the shore with Squaw island, and raises the water
in the harbour 4 i ft., to a level with the lake, creating an
immense water power. Vessels are admitted from the har-
bour into the river by a lock.
Tonawanda 11 m. is a small village, with a good harbour.
Schlosser 9 m. is next passed before reaching the Falls.
See p 145. - ^
From Buffalo by steamboat daily. By this route is pre-
sented a fine view of Lake Erie and both sides of the river.
The first object in view is the ruins of
Fort Erie, on the Canada side, a little N. of Waterloo, the
scene of several engagements during the late war. The last
and most decisive battle was fought on the night of Aug.
15th, 1814. The Americans had possession of the fort, and
were attacked several times during the night by the British,
who were as often repulsed, until at length they succeeded,
by a superior force, in gaining a bastion. Several cartridges
144
BUFFALO TO NIAGARA,
exploding, they caused tremenduus havoo amongst the Bri-
tish, who were obliged to retreat, having lost 221 killed, 174
wounded, and 186 prisoners. The American loss was 17
killed, 56 wounded, and 1 1 missing. This action was fol-
lowed by a splendid sortie, made by Gen. Porter on the 17th,
in which tht' British lost 1000, including 385 prisoners; and
the Americans 5 1 1 killed, wounded, and missing.
Opposite is the new fort being erected by the U. S. go-
vernment.
The river is here divided into two channels by Grand
Island, a tract of valuable land mostly covered with timber,
chiefly of white oak, suitable for ship building. It is 12 m.
in circumference, and from 3 to 6 m. in diameter, and be-
longs to thei Americans.
Navy Island, at the foot of Grand island, belongs to the
British. It became notorious in 1837-8, when it was occu-
pied by the so-called '' patriots." The steamer Caroline was
burnt while lying at Schlosser's Landing on the American
side opposite ', it was engaged in plying between the shore
and the island, which shortly after was evacuated, .'.f: «»?' '
Chippewa 20 m. from Buffalo, and 2 m. above the falls,
is a flourishing place, with a tolerable harbour, situated at
the mouth of Chippewa creek ; which is spanned by a draw-
bridge, and is navigable 15 m. up the stream. It commands
an excellent view of the rapids, and scenery above the Falls.
Chippewa has become famous on account of the sangui-
nary battles fought in the neighborhood, during the late war.
The battle was fought July 5th, 1814, on the plains one
mile S. of the village. The American forces were com-
manded by Maj. Gen. Brown, and the British by Maj. Gen.
Riall. The British advanced rapidly across the Chippewa
bridge, and were met by the troops under Gen. Scott, and
were also attacked by Gen. Ripley on their right flank. After
a severe engagement, the British recrossed the bridge, which
NIAGARA RIVER AND FALLS.
U5
they broke down on their retreat, having sufTered a loss of
614 killed, wounded, and missing, while the American loss
was 328.
From Chippewa a railroad extends to Qiiecmton, 10 m.,
stopping opposite the rnuilion, an excellent hotel. The
Clifton House half a mile below, near the ferry, affords the
best general view of both the American, and Canadian or
Horse Shoe Falls, that is to be obtained.
• ' ' NIAGARA RIVER AND FALLS.
Niagara river about 35 miles in length, on which the
fallr. are situated, is the great outlet of the upper I kes, and
connects Lake Erie with Lake Ontario. These great inland
seas, as they may be called, contain nearly half the fresh
w^ater on the globe. The river as it flows from Lake Erie in
about three fourths of a mile wide, and from 20 to 40 ft. dt tjp ;
it has for 3 m. a rapid current, and then becomes smooth
and placid, resembling a prolongation of the tranquil lake,
being interspersed with low wooded islands, till within one
mile from the falls. Five miles from Lake Erie the river
begins to expand, till it becomes more than 8 m. in width,
measured across Grand island, and embraces, before it
reaches the falls, 40 islands. Below the termination of
Grand and Navy islands, the river is compressed to a breadth
of 2i m., and proceeds with an accelerated motion. Three
fourths of a mile above the falls commence t'-.- apids, which
have a descent of from 52 to 57 ft., the greatest descent
being on the British side ; they are more than a mile in
width, with white crested breakers, and a dashing and foam-
ing torrent, tossing from 10 to 30 iL. above the main current,
until they come to the great cataract. Nothing but a mira-
cle, could save any one who should come within the force
of these rapids. . ... . _
10 N
Ii6
BUFFALO TO NIAGARA.
The Falls, about 21 m. below lake Erie, and 14 m. above
lake Ontario, are generally regarded as the greatest natural
curiosity in the world. The river is precipitated over a pre-
cipice 160 ft. high, with a solemn and tremendous roar,
which is ordinarily heard from 5 to 20 m., but has in some
instances been heard at Toronto 45 m. distant ; although at
the village on the shore, there is little to give notice of its
awful proximity. In consequence of a bend in the river,
the principal weight of the water, supposed to be seven
eighths of the whole, is thrown on the Canadian side over
the Horse-shoe fall. The distance across the fall from the
American shore to Goat island is 65 rods ; across the front
of Goat island is 78 rods; around the Horse-shoe fall 144
rods; and directly across the same it is 74 rods. The Ame-
lican fall, though sublime, inclines to the beautiful ; while
the Canadian fall, though beautiful, is characterized by an
overpowering sublimity.
On the American side, the water power is immense, and
easily available ; and but for its exposedness in case of a
war, would probably be soon and extensively occupied. It
is computed that 100 millions of tons of water are discharged
over the precipice every hour. The river at the falls is a
little over three fourths of a mile wide, but below, it is im-
mediately compressed to less than one fourth of a mile in
width, and as ascertained by sounding is about 250 ft. deep.
About 2 m. below the falls, the river is comparatively smooth,
and thence to Lewiston it flows with amazing velocity.
While the river makv. . a constant descent of 100 ft. in 7 m.,
the banks have an ascent for the same distance, to Lew-
iston.
The number of visiters at the falls is from 12 to 15,000
annually, and the number is increasing. All classes from
different parts of the world congregate here during the sum-
mer season.
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NIAGARA PALLS.
147
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The banks of the river vary greatly in their appearance
and height ; from the efHux of the river to the cataract, they
are from 5 to 100 ft. high; from the Falls to the end of the
mountain ridge, they are from 170 to 370 ft. perpendicular
height ; at Lewiston they are 100 ft. high, and from thence
to the lake, they have a gradual and unbroken descent. The
descent of the river, from its efflux to Black Rock is 6 ft. ;
from thence to the rapids 10 ft. ; from the head of the rapids
to the cataract 58 ft. ; the cataract itself 154 ft.; from the
Falls to Lewiston 104 ft. ; and from Lewiston to Lake On-
tario, about 2 ft. The whole declivity of the river from lake
Erie to Ontario, is therefore 334 ft !
As the traveller approaches the falls the distant view of
the green wood, the falling water, and the white foam, with
the sun shinihg full upon them, is more beautiful and less
grand, probably than he expected. But after several nearer
views of the two cataracts, gazing upon them for hours from
above and below, watching the river foaming over the rapids
then plunging headlong into the dark pool, and listening to
their thundering sound ; and having explored the delightful
island which divides the falls, where the solitude of the
ancient forest is still unbroken, then at last he learns by de-
grees to comprehend the wonders of the scene, and to feel
its full magnificence.
) <
; :♦ . .;^ NIAGARA FALLS.
Having arrived at the falls, take rooms at one of the foi*
lowing Hotels :
On the American side; The Cataract House, the oldest
establij^hment at the falls, is a large and splendid hotel, with
the finest accommodations, situated near the bank of tho
river, a part of it almost overhanging the rapids between the
shore and Goat island, and commanding a fine view of the
■vSr-
148
NI A G A RA ^'ALLS.
-■'*
verge of the American Fall, the islands, &c. ; attached to
the house is a neat garden, and about a mile distant, a farm
of 500 acres, on which supplies for the house are raised.
The St. Lawrence Hotel is also .n e xellent house; besides
which there are Sv=)veral others c good repute.
On the Canada side j The Clifton House., a large, commo-
dious, and well furnished hotel, stands on the brow of the
bank, near the ferry, and commands a splendid view of the
Falls from its piazzas. The Pavilion, is a handsome house
and has ample accommodations ; it stands on the upper bank
and affords a fine prospect of the scenery, from its piazza,
and also from the foot of the stairs leading to the bank
below.
Sallying forth from your hotel to visit the falls, keep along
the brow of the upper bank or ridge to Prospect Point, on the
river. From there you have the best view of the falls, on
the American side. Standing upon the brow of the preci-
pice, you behold one of the most magnificent views presented
by this great phenomenon of nature. Two hundred feet
below you iho river rolls by ruffled and agitated, shining and
sparkling in the sun, and bounded on either side by lofty
walls of limestone, crowned with neat villages, cultivated
fields, and viist tracts of forest. To your left Table Rock,
the Horse-shoe fall, Iris island, the Central fall, the American
fall, the rapids and islands above, all are within sight, but
of the Horse-shoe fall the view is distant and partial. Having
gazed at and admired this glorious scene, advance to Pros-
pect ^lace on the very brink of the cataract, and there lean-
ing over look down at the awful depth, the huge masses of
rock, the spray and the foam rising from the deep abyss,
then up, at the American cascade and the other falls. Mr.
Ware, has an observatory on the ferry house, from whence
you can-i5|5iew the same scenes, and where also, canes, and
other articles are for sale.
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BATH ISLAND.
149
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Having feasted your eyes with the glorious scene, pass up
the river along its shore, admiring the wild rapids of the
river and the splendid scenery of the banks and islands, until
you reach the Bridge from the American shore to Bath
Island. While standing on the bridge, which is oidy 64 rods
above the cataract, you are filled with amazement and
wonder to know how a bridge could be erected over such a
mad torrent, rushing along with a velocity and force almost
irresistible. The manner of constructing it was as follows ;
the abutment on the shore having been built of proper size
and durability, two long massive timbers were projected from
it, the ends in the abutment being secured from tilting up by
piling on tons of weight. Upon these timbers were then laid
planks, thus forming a temporary but insecure bridge, from
the extremity of which large stones were let down into the
stream, until the pile rose above the water, -when it was sur-
rounded by a massive frame of timber, sunk into the watei,
and the remaining space filled with stone. One pier being-
formed it was comparatively easy to form the permanent
bridge from it to the shore. The second and remaining piers
were formed in like manner by successively thrusting the
timbers forward, and then connecting them by sections of
the permanent bridge. Bath island is connected with Iris
jsland by a similar bridge, and thus to the main land.
The first bridge to this island was built higher up the
stream by Gen. Whitney in 1817, but was carried away by
ice in the following spring ; the present one was constructed
the ensuing summer by the Messrs. Porter at a cost of IGOO
dcilare, it is s4 rod- in length, being 28 rods to Bath island,
and thence 16 rods to Iris island.
On arriving at Bath island, you register your name and pay
25 cts. tol.', which entitles you to pass and repass as often as
you please : at the toll house the keeper has quite a museum
of curiosities, and has for sale canes, bead-work; &c. A path
N 2 '
_ . i>:
150
MAOARA FALLS.
leads from the loll house lo a bridge connecting Bath island
■with Ship island, which with Brig island, are two beautiful
and delightful retreats, so named on account of their fancied
resemblance to such vessels. They are situated in the very
midst of the wild and turbulent rapids, of which they com-
mand excellent views ; they are covered with vines, trees,
and flowers, and provided with rustic seats.
After crossing the bridge to Iris or Goat island, turn to your
right and pursue the path along the bank, to the Hog^s back,
a narrow ridge so named from its shape, at the lowest ex-
tremity of the island. From this point, you have a fine view
of the Central or Crescent fall betwe'i. ii.'o and Prospect
islands, the American fall between tht ialior au ' the Ame-
rican shore, the river below with its piciur'"*-'.• . - 'tf •
From the foot of the stair case, paths lead up to the British
fall, and down to the Cf ntral fall, and the Cave of trr Winds.
First, being properly equipped, you pass up uloiig the rive
to the Horse-shoe fall, pursuing the pathway at the foot of
the cliff, with vast musses of rock impending over and seem-
ing about to fall ••>pon you, though in reality, there is httle
danger. Having reached the cataract, you gaze up far, far
above you, at Uij overhanging cliff, the Terrapin rocks, and
the never ceasing torrent dashed to foam upon the huge lime-
stone rocks, v'hich have evidently been torn from the preci-
pice above. From here also an excellent view of the mag-
nificent cascade presente itself. If the wind is favorable,
you can pass some distance behind the sheet, and view it in
all its greatness and sublimity.
Retrace your steps and passing the Biddle stair-case, you
reach the Lower Fishing-Rock, at the lower extremity of the
island, where you gain the best view of the American fall
that is to be had, except from the rive ^ directly in front of
it. You are struck with its lovely beauty, its majestic and
sublime proportions, and its great height ; a sceiie that makes
a deep impress upon the memory.
Ascending the sloping bank to the Centre Fall, pause at
the entrance of the Cave of the Winds^ to look u^ at the pro-
jecting cliff, far over which falls the sparkling toneril, while
below you are piles of rock on which th( torrent lashes
itself into foam and spray. Descending the ♦eps of the ca-
vern, you have before you still another subliuie set- e ; on the
one side rises a huge wall of rock, while oi; the other is the
falling sheet Torminga beautiful arch. Reaching the bottom,
and gaining the centre and back of the cave, the sights and
I A
OBJECTS ON IIlIS ISLAND.
153
Bounds of the rushing waters, and of the n^verberating winds*
pent up in their rocky confines, will thrill your very soul
with emotions never to be forgotten. The cavo is 100 It.
wide, 30 ft. deep, and 130 feet high; the bottom is composed
of loose stones, which have fallen from above, and slopes
gradually down to the front, where it terminates in a preci-
pice 34 ft. high from the water. The sheet of water on the
one side, and the projecting rock on the other form a natural
and noble arch. The winds keeping the spray in constant
agitation, completely drench you before leaving the cave.
Leaving the Cave of the Winds you reach a narrow space
at the foot of Prospect island, between, and commanding
fine views of the Central and American falls. Then pass
behind the American falls as far as you dare; which it is
supposed can be done for its entire length. Returning, as-
cend the Biddle staircase, resume your ordinary dress, and
proceeding up the river, complete the circuit of the island,
passing the Horse-shoe Falls and Terrapin Rocks. In your
route you have beautiful views of the wild rapids ; of four
small islands, between one of which covered with moss, and
Iris island, is a beautiful cataract in miniature ; of the tur-
bulent river, with Schlosser on the left, Chippewa far off to
the right, and Grand, Navy, and other islands in the distance ;
and of the American rapids. Near the end of your circuit
you pass the log house, formerly occupied by Fraucis Abbott,
the Hermit of the Falls. The Garden is a pretty f i?o!:, con-
taining some excellent fruit trees, a variety of plu.uts and
flowers, and a fish pond. Re-cross the bridge, thence to
your Hotel, and when ready to view the falls from the Ca-
nada side, the ensuin*^ directions will be of use to you. In
the evening, if it is moonlight, make another visit to Iris
island, and it will then appt^ar still more lovely.
Leaving your hotel, take another look at the American
fall from Prospect-point, and pass on to the Ferry railroad
%
-.is&^V
154
NIAGARA FALLS.
|;?
and stair case, constructed by Judge Porter in 1845. The
route for the railroad ia formed by blasting the solid rock for
a ppace of 25 ft. in width and 100 ft. in length from the bank
of the river. In this chasm an inclined plane 320 ft. in
length, with an angle of 35 degrees, is constructed ; on this
is a double track for the cars, which are propelled by motive
power obtained by diverting a small stream from the Ame-
rican Fall upon an overshot wheel. A stair uuse is formed
parallel with the railroad, thus giving you the choice of two
modes of descent, for neither of which is a charge made.
About half way down, where the staircase turns to th^ right,
you obtain a beautiful view of the American fall and partial
ones of the others j which it is well worth while to do, as from
every point that you view either of the falls, they present
just so many different appearances. Having reached the
bank of the river, pass up it and you will have another ex-
cellent view of the American fall, behind which, if the wind
i« favourable, you pass for some distance without being in-
commoded by the spray.
Returning from thence to the ferry, you are carried across
the river, which is 76 rods wide, in a short lime, for which
you pay between the months of May and November 181
cents ; at other reasons 25 cts. When in the middle of the
stream a splendid view of the circle of great cataracts meets
your delighted gaze. Reaching the Canada shore you ascend
it by a fine carriage-road, leading up to the Clifton House, at
the top of the bank ; and from thence for the whole distance
to Table Rock, the finest and most magnificent of all the upper
views of tho falls meets the eye.
If the other views have created wonder and delight, how
much more will the view f o n Table Rock, take from you
the power of adequately expressing your awe and admiration
at the sight now before you ? Table Rock 150 ft. high pro-
jects over the bank, and beyond the curve of the cascade to
>Aw / . .
,^^L.t^>
TABLE ROC K — T E R M I N A T I O N ROCK.
155
a considerable distance ; and (hence from itn tabular anpcct,
it« name. It was formerly much more extensive than at
present, large portions having been broken off by the fall, at
three different periods, viz. in 1818, '28, and '29 j and a deep
iissure shows that at no very distant period a similar occur-
rence is likely to happen. Creep to the edge of the rock,
and look down, tho sensation is awful, and will make tho
stoutest nerves shudder. The shape or outline of the British
fall is undergoing almost constant change; in 1678 it wan
nearly
straight
across ; since then it has taken different
shapes, from one of which it derived the na|ie of Horse-shoe,
a shape which it does not now present. This would seem to
be a strong proof in favour of the theory advocated by Mr.
Lyell, the celebrated English geologist, and others, viz. that
for a vast Lumber of years the falls liave been constantly
wearing their way through the channel from Queenston and
Lewiston until they have reached their present position, and
are still constantly retrograding. It is certain that the falls
do not now present the same appearance they did a few years
since.
Returning from Table Rock to the Stair Case^ you procure
proper apparel and a guide to visit Termination Rockj which
is behind the great sheet. From the foot of the stairs, you
take the path to the right and arrive at the entrance of the
cavern which you are about to explore. Here, and from the
margin of tho river you fully realize the vast height, weight,
and proportions of the falling torrent. Following your guide
you enter the space behind the sheet, through a heavy shower
of spray which nearly blinds and suffocates you, until you
reach Termination Rock, where it is more open and you
breathe more freely. Standing on the narrow ledge of three
feet in width, and gazin_g up at the huge arch of rock and
water which appears ready to fall upon and crush you, and
down 20 ft. at a steep precipice and a flashing sheet becoming
ft
■Jlpwi^fe win ii T' ii rir i TS
156
NIAGARA FALLS.
«■* -t. T
I
invisible in the rising mists, your sensations are unutterably
peculiar, and you are strongly fascinated to the spot.
Returning from the cavern, change your dress, register
your name, and receive a certificate that you have been to
Termination Rock. On the route to the ferry, you can visit
Mr. BarnctVs museum of natural and artificial curiosities, and
from his piazza enjoy a splendid view ', and also see at the
Camera Obscura, the moving representation of the Falls in
miniature. On crossing the river you again have another
glorious view.
If you have lime, on arriving at the foot of the Ferry stair-
case, turn to your left, and pursue the rather rough and fa-
tiguing path along the top of the sloping bank for three
fourths of a mile, until you reach Catlings cave, so named
from its discoverer. It consists of a round hollow in the centre
of a large and nearly spherical rock ; and is 6 ft. in diame-
ter, entered by a circular aperture, about 4 ft. from the bot-
tom of the rock. A fine spring courses along the bottom of
the cavity. The GianVs cave, beyond and some distance
above Catlin's, in the rocks, is difficult of access, and is sup-
posed to have been formed by the disruption of large masses
of rock. Some very fine specimens of minerals and petrified
moss are to be had here. . .- -^
If you remain for a few days at the Falls, they should be
visited several times, as they increase in interest and beauty
at every succeeding visit.
w
PLACES IN THE VICINITY OF THE FALLS.
A good plan for seeing the various places down the river
is to pass down the American side to Lewiston 7 m., and
return on the Canada shore. Omnibusses leave Niagara
Falls village every hour, for the Mineral Spring, Whirlpool,
and Devil's Hole ; private conveyances can also be had j but
f
r o f V » 1 ii it 1 H (■■, 1- 1, u K I) Kugravfifi for Teck s Touri.iU^ojiipbniort ,
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""!».
MINERAL SPRING, WHIRLPOOL, ETC. 157
walking is preferable, as the route is through beautiful and
romantic scenery, aud the various objects can be examined
more thoroughly.
Point View, three fourths of a mile below the ferry, affords
a splendid though distant view of the Falls ; the river flows
smoothly by at a depth of 200 ft.
The Mineral Spring li m. farther, wells up between the
rocks and is collected in a stone l)asin. It contains sulphu-
ric and muriatic acids, lime and magnesia, and is useful in
scrofulous, rheumatic, and cutaneous complaints. Over the
spring is constructed a neat building in the Grecian style.
The Whirlpool 1 m. farther, is almost as tremendous as
the maelstrom of Norway. For some distance before reach-
ing it the river flows with great rapidity and turbulence, be-
tween two very lofty walls, nearly 300 ft. high, and here makes
an acute angle in its course turning abruptly off to the right.
Every thing is drawn into the vortex where they are whirled
round for several days in the outer circles, and finally drawn
down perpendicularly with great force, and shot out again
at a distance of many rods. This terrible nptv.ral curiosity
cannot be seen with clearness from its lofty • anks, but a
long and winding series of steps leads to the base of the cliff,
where it can be seen to great advantage.
The DeviVs Hole, i a m. farther, is a f^ark cove or chasm,
150 ft. deep in the rocky bank, wild, rugged and massive,
from which a noble view of the river and gulf is presented.
A party of British while retreating from Schlosser before the
French and Indians, during the French war, were destroyed
at this place and out of over a hundred persons, only two
escaped. The >ottom is reached t/ descending the rocky
crags with great toil, until you reach the river's bank.
From the hill near the Devil's Hole, a most lovely and
picturesque view is presented of, Queenston Heights, Brock's
Monument, the plains and villages below the remainder of
'I
.■^^
Mi-
158
VICINITY OF THE FALLS.
the river's course, Lake Ontario, and the hills and forests in
the background.
HewleWs cellar, about 3 m. farther, is a singular cavity of
triangular shape, in the rock about 15 ft. below the top of
the bank , it seems to be formed by the breaking out of two
immense masses from the limestone rock.
About a mile larther, the mountain plain through which
Niagara fioyti, terminates abruptly ; the banks on either side
are nearly 400 fi . in height and below in the plain on the
American side is Lewiston, and on the opposite side the
village of Qaeenston. From the heights you behold a glo-
rious prospect of plains, villages, forts, and the lake in the
distance.
Lewistoiij 7 m. below the Falls, and 7 m. from Lake Onta-
rio, is a thriving village containing about 1000 inhabitants,
situated at the head of steamboat navigation. It was de-
stroyed during the war of 1812, and rebuilt, with much neat-
ness and taste, in 1815. It is connected with Lockport, and
the Falls by railroads, and with Qiieenston by a ferry. Hotel;
Frontier House, excellent.
Crossing the river by the ferry to Queenstorij to return by
the Canada side to the Falls; your first visit is to Gen.
Brock's Monument, and the scene of his death.
The Battle of Queenston, was fought on the 13th of Octo-
ber, 1812. Gen. Van Rensselaer, who had command of the
American troops at Lewiston, determined on crossing over
and taking possession of the heights. He ascended the ra-
vine, rising nearly 300 ft. above the river, amid the fire of
the enemy from their breastworks on the heights. The
British retreated to the village, and were about to be led on
again by Gen. Brock when he received his mortal wound j
his aid Col. McDonald, then taking the command, lud them
on, and gaining the heights was himself mortally wounded.
The Americans being overpowered by superior numbers, in
^
;?|
A.„
brock's MONUMEN T — L U N D V ' S LANE. 1 59
attempting to regain their own side of the river, lost in killed
and taken, 1000 men.
The Monument to Gen. Brock and his aid Col. McDonald,
was erected by the Provincial Legislature ; it stands Jjpon
the highest elevation, and is composed of freestone. It was
a fine specimen of architecture, of the spiral form, 126 ft.
high; but was entirely ruined it having been blown up with
gunpowder by some villains on the night of the 17th April,
1840.
Passing up the bank of the river, nearly opposite the
Devil's Hole, is a similar chasm, though not so large.
About half a mile farther is the Whirlpool, excellent views
of which can be had either from above, or by descending the
bank. From Bencackie Point, at the entrance to the Whirl-
pool, the view presented is the mjst imposing.
The Muddy Run. a small stream a short distance above,
falls over the precipice and forms quite a beautiful cascade.
Benderh Cave or Devil's Den, about H m. further, is a
natural curiosity, being a hollow of the shape of an oven, in
the rock about 20 ft. below the top of the bank.
For the remainder of the route you have partial and distant
views of the Falls, until you arrive at the Clifton House.
Drummondville, 3 m. N. W. of the Falls, is reached by
following the road up the bank, in front of the Clifton House,
which leads directly to the battle-ground. The important
battle of Lundy's Lane was fought on July 25th, 1814. Gen.
Scotfj aid Gen. Ripley with their brigades met the British
under Gen. Drummond who were advancing towards Chip-
pewa with a force which had been considerably augmented
since their defeat at Chippewa, on the 5th. The British had
fcelected their ground for (he night, just below the falls, in-
tandiiig to attack the American camp before daylight. The
action began ut 7 i/t'lcu k in the evening, and was fought for
ICO
VICINITY OF THE FALLS.
several hours with great bravery by both sides, the moon
shining brightly. Both armies claimed the victory, though
neither were willing to renew the conflict. The British loss
in killed, wounded, and prisoners was 878, and the Ameri-
can loss 860. Some of the buildings on the hill, the posses-
sion of which was so obstinately contested, still retain marks
of the combat. A church, tavern, and burying-ground
where many of the slain were buried, are on the hill.
The Burning Spring, half a mile above the Falls, is
reached by crossing the ferry to the Canada side ; then fol-
low the uf'^er bank to the Pavilion Hotel, whce you have a
new vie- '' ihe falls ; pass the Barracks, and continue on to
Street's Point, . ^ ire you have the best and grandest view
of the Canada rapids ; pass round the deep inlet which sepa-
rates Cynthia islands from the main land, to the Burning
Spring on the S. side. The water is warm and surcharged
with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, which burns with a clear
steady flame when ignited. It is enclosed in a small build-
ing, which when closed becomes filled with gas.
Chippewa, 1 ra. above, is visited for its battle field, S. of
the village. See p. 144.
The Welland Canal, 8 m. W. of ihe Falls, is frequently
visited. It affords a passage for steamers and schooners of
450 tons around the Falls, and connects lake Erie with lake
Ontario. It is 42 m. long, 56 ft. wide, and from 8^ to 16 ft.
deep; the whole descent from one lake to the other is 334 ft.,
which is accomplished by 22 locks constructed of granite.
It has a deep cut through the mountain ridge 45 ft. deep,
where an immense amouiit of earth and rocks was removed ;
it wai completed in 1829, and cost $1,000,000. It was en-
larged and greatly improved in 1845-6.
,v.
NIAGAHA TO MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. 161
' FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO MONTREAL AND QUEBEC.
I. By Steamboat from Lewiston, by way of Lake Ontario
to Oswego, from thence to Sacketl's Harbor, and thence
down the St. Lawrence river, touching at Ogdensburgh, and
other places on the river to Coteau da Lac, thence by stage
to the Cascade, 16 m., thence by steamboat to Lachine 22 m.,
thence by stage to Montreal 9 m. See p. 166.
IL By Steaniboai from Lewiston, across Lake Ontario to
Toronto 52 m., Kingston 180 m., and most of the places of
note on the Canada side of the Lake, thence down the St.
Lawrence, as above. See below.
in. By R. R. to Queenston on the Canada side, thence by
steamboat as above.
Besides the above main routes, travellers can take the
R. R. to Buffalo, and thence by R. R. to Rochester, and there
take the steamboat on Lake Ontario : or
They can leave the Falls by R. R. to Lockport, and thence
by can£d or stage to Rochester, thence by S. B.
Travellers about to make the tour from the Falls take the
railroad to Lewiston 7 m. on the American side, or by R. R.
on the Canada side to Queenston ; from either place by steam-
boat down the Niagara river, which is now wider and more
tranquil than above Lewiston, and its clear waters flowing
between even and regular banks, it assumes as lovely an
appearance as it was before majestic.
Youngstown, 6 m. is a quiet little place, pleasantly situated
on the American shore, and contains about 300 inhabitants;
it was burnt by the British during the late war.
Fort George, and the town of Niagara, are nearly opposite.
The fort now in ruins, was the scene of several severe con-
11 q2
1G2 NIAOARA TO MONTREAL AND QUEBEC.
tests in 1813. as was aiso the whole irontier on the Canada
side as high up as Fort Erie, opposite Buffalo.
Niagara is advantageously situated, and is the oldest town
on the river. It contains 4 churches, 10 taverns, a Dry
Dock company with banking privileges, many neat dwell-
ings, and about 3,000 inhabitants. Large qn; titles of ma-
chinery are made, and steamboats and other vessels built.
The spring and fall Races over the course are well attended,
and are generally very good. The town was burnt by the
American forces in 1813, which was retaliated by burning
all the villages on the American shore of Niagara r.
Fort Massasauga, li m. below St. George, stands on the
extreme point of the peninsula, at the junction of the river
with the lake. It is constructed of earth, with a large sep-
tagonal stone block house in the centre ; and is well garri-
soned and in good repair.
Fort Niagara, similarly situated on the American side, is
now ably garisoned by U. States troops, and was recently
strengthened, enlarged, and improved. It was originally set-
tled by the French in 1679, under M. de la Salle, the ex-
plorer of the Mississippi. In 1725, the French constructed
the most ancient portion of the fort, which passed into the
hands of the British under Sir Wm. Johnson in 1759, when
the magazine and other defences were built. In 1796, it
was evacuated and given up to the United States, in whoso
hands it remained until it was surprised by the British dur-
ing the late war; it was retained by them until the peace
of 1815, when it was again surrendered to the U. States.
Many dark tales are told of inhuman cruelties practised in
former times within the precincts of the fort, most cf which
are no doubt, much exaggerated.
The steamboat now crosses the W, end of Lake Ontario,
to Toronto, Canada West. On the W. shore of the lake aio
<^H
LAKE ONTARIO TORONTO
163
several large and flourishing places, as Hairilton, Dundas,
Burlington, Oakville, &c.
:'!S
LAKE ONTARIO,
The easternmost and smallest in extent of the five great
lakes, is connected with the upper lakes by Niagara river,
and dischargees its waters by the St. Lawrence. It is 190 m.
long, 55 m. wide in its widest part, and about 480 m. in cir-
cumference. It is very deep, is seldor frozen, has many
good harbour? anu receives numerous rivers and creeks. It
is subject to vj lent storms and heavy swells, but the steam-
boats and canal boats having a heavy draught, navigate it
safely. It is connected with the Erie and Hudson canal by
the Oswego and Erie canals, and with the lakes by the Wel-
land canal around the falls of Niagara ; and by their means
vast quantities of articles are transported through it. The
lake is navigable for vessels of the largest size, and numer-
ous splendid steamboats and other craft ply in its waters. In
crossing the lake in calm weather, frequently neither shore
can be seen ; the refractions that take place in summer are
exceedingly beautiful. Islands and trees api'i^-ar turned up-
side down, and the white surf of the beach, jppears to be
white smoke curling over your head.
*
TORONTO
180 m. W. of Kingston, and 45 m. E. of Ha.nilton by steam-
boat, is delightfully situated at the head of ■ ■ ■» bay. It is a
neat and handsome city, partly built of brick, with spacious
streets crossing each other at rigb* angles, and well paved
and lighted with gas; the city is sjpplied w'th wa er by
works lately erected. It has a commanding appearance in
ascending the harbour, and contains Parliament, Govern-
ment, and Court houses ; a College consisting of five brick
I^hi-
164
NIAGARA TO MO I' REAL.
buildings, the central one Burmounted by an ornamental
dome, with spacious grounds; a jail, city-hall, lunatic asy-
lum, 14 churches, 5 banks, and a population of about 18,000.
Toronto founded by Gov. Simcoe in 1794, was burnt by
the Americans in 1813, and chartered as a city in 1834, when
it contained 9,254 inhabitants, which has been doubled in
ten years ; it has also much increased in trade and import-
ance. Its name signifies in the Indian language, ' a place
of meeting.' , . ;
Hotels; North American, facing the bay; and Stone's Ho-
tel in King st. j kept on the English plan, furnishing a lunch
at noon, and a late dinner.
Steamboats leave Toronto daily, Sundays excepted, for
Hamilton 45 m; for Niagara and Lewiston 45 m. ; for Kings-
ton ISO m. ; and Rochester 100 m. The American lines be-
tween Lewiston and Ogdensburgh also touch at Toronto and
Kingston.
Stages leave Toronto, for Qwienston 100 m. via Etobicoke
9 m. Cooksville 7, Credit 4, Trai..i;.j:ar 3, Palermo 7, Nelson 5,
Hamilton 13, Stony Cr. 7, Grimeby 10, Beamsville 6, St. Ca-
tharine's 14, and Queenston 15. For Holland Landing at the
^oot of Simcoe Lake, thence by steamer three times a week
to various places on the lake. For Kingston 170 m. via Hope
60, Coburg 73, Colbourn 89, and Belleville 119.
On leaving Toronto by steamboat you descend the com-
modious and beautiful harbour, with Gibraltar poirit on the
left hand side, a narrow and sandy strip of land 3 m. long
w^ith a lighthouse at the end ; and the lake shore on the right,
with its fort and block houses commanding the entrance.
Port Hope 60 m. is a flourishing place with about 2500 in-
habitants, settled mostly upon several hills, and giving it a
picturesque appearance. On Port Hope r. are several manu-
factories.
C O B U R G — K 1 N G S T ON.
105
Coburg. 7 m. a pretty town, well laid out, stands on ground
slightly elevated, and is ^^een to advantage from the lake. It
contains 6 chinches, the Victoria College, and about 3000 in-
habitants ; it is connected with the mouth of Genesee r. 80 m.
by a steamboat, fare $2.00 in the cabin, Sl.Oo on 'eck.
Fifty Mile point extends into the lake fo r, e distance
and is so called from being 50 m. from Kim
Fai ^e Duck's island, Amherst, Gage, Grai ti«f
the Thousand IsleSf all belong to the English .. ,. assed
before reaching
KINGSTON,
180 m. from Toronto and 212 S. W. of Montreal. The city
is advantageously situated on the N. bank of the St. Law*
rence r. at its connection with lake Ontario. It contains the
Parliament house, government offices, soldiers' barracks, a
penitentiary, courthouse, jail, custom house, a new and
splendid town hall and market, 7 churches, 4 banks, and
about 10,000 inhabitants. The city occupies the site of Fort
Frontenac erected by the French in 1672; it was founded
in 1783, and chartered in 1840. The harbour is formed by
Point Frederick, a narrow peninsula running 'iito the lake,
on which is the navy yard and depot, and at its extremity a
battery. Point Henry a high rocky ridge forming the E. side
of Navy bay, extends into the lake for half a mile, and is
crowned by Fort Henry, a strong fortification commanding
Kingston and its harbour, and all approaches to the city,
either by land or water. Next to Quebec and Halifax it is
considered the strongest military position in British America.
The Navy Yard and Fortifications, can be seen by procuring
an order from the commandant ; they are well worth visiting.
Hotels; British- American hotel; Lampton House; and the
Royal Exchange.
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
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11.25
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US
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PhotDgraphic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716) 872-4503
A*
^
160
NIAGARA TO MONTREAL.
The Mineral Springs within the city limits near the Par-
liament House, are unusually strong, and of great medical
value, containing carbonate and chloride of lime, magnesia,
sodium, and calcium. Extensive bath houses and other ac-
commodations have been erected, and they are becoming
annually more visited.
The Rideau Canal extending to Bytown on the river Ot-
tawa, 100 m. has added much to thd increase of Kingston.
Seep. 173. , , -
Route continued on next page. ■< . ^
^ ROUTES ON THE AMERICAN SIDE.
«
Jf
¥rom Lewiston by steamboat to Toronto^ as on p. 164, thence
across the lake to Charlotte near the mouth of the Genesee
r. below Rochester, seep. 124. Great Sodus Bay 35 m.
Oswego, 28 m. and 63 m. from Genesee r., described on
p. 116.
Sackett's Harbour, 40 m. is on the S. W. side of Black
river bay, and is quite a flourishing village. It has a most
excellent natural harbour, the best on the lake ; and was
during the war of 1812, an important naval and military sta-
tion. It contains three churches, a bank, and numerous fac-
tories and mills. The U. S. Barracks are an extensive range
of stone buildings, on the shore N. £. of the village, and
add an imposing feature to the place. Two forts erected
during the war are now in ruins ; on one of the points S. of
the village is the lighthouse. Pop. about 2000.
Cape Vincent 20 m. is opposite to Kingston, described on
p. 165, and is rounded before entering
The Lake of a Thousand Isles ; this is an expansion of the
St. Lawrence r., which is here 12 m. wide, and is so called
from the great number of islands stretching along its channel
for 30 m. The isles are of every size, form, height, and as-
I
y
DESCENT OF THE ST. LAWRENCE.
167
pcibt ; woody, verdant, rocky ; naked, smiling, barren ; and,
presenting a succession of beautiful and picturesque groups,
the route through them is delightfully romantic.
The river now contracts to 2 m. in width, and its shores
for a long distance are mostly covered with immense and
ancient forests, partially cleared away, and with numerous
villages scattered at various distances, altogether presenting
a grand scene of varied beauty.
Guananoquiy 20 m. below Kingston is the first landing; we
next pass WelVs Island, opposite Alexandria on the American
shore ; Morristown is on the same side.
Brockville, 60 ra. from Kingston, on the Canada shore, is
delightfully situated and contains over 1500 inhabitants.
Maitland 4 m., and Prescott 72 m. from Kingston, are next
on the Canada side. The latter contains about 3,000 inhabit-
ants, is protected by Fort Wellington garrisoned by British
troops, and is connected by a ferry with
Ogdensburg on the American side. The town is regularly
laid out and well built, on a beautiful plain at the mouth of
the Oswegatchie r. There are in the town 5 churches, 2
banks, numerous mills, and 2526 inhabitants. This is gene-
rally the end of the American steamboat's trip, and passen-
gers cross to Prescott, and from thence continue their tour. »
A daily line of steamboats ascend the river and lake to
Lewiston. Stages leave daily for Jt^latisburgh 120 m. by the
S. B. route ; and for the same place tri-weekly 132 m., via Fort
Covington intersecting the stage for Montreal, distant by this
route 140 m.
Seven miles below, the Gdop Rapids in the river, are passed
by steamboats, though stopping the navigation for sail vessels.
Johnstown 9 m. below Prescott on the Canada side ', Wad-
dington on the American side opposite Ogden^s island ; and
Mariastown on the opposite side, are small towns next on the
route.
■it:'M
I
168
NIAGARA TO MONTREAL.
From Dickenson's Landing 110 m. below Kingston; the
steamboat passes through the canal to
Cornwall 12 m. a small town containing nearly 2000 inha-
bitants; it is 122 m. below Kingston, and 90 m. above Mon-
treal.
(. Anne^s 20 m. above Lachine, the rapids and the
islands are avoided by a lock 45 ft. wide and 180 ft. long.
This is the spot where Tom Moore locates the scene of his
celebrated and beautiful Canadian Boat Song commencing
*' Faintly as tolU the evening chime."
Two miles W. of St. Anne, the Ottawa expands into the lake
of the Two Mountains, and a branch diverges to the N. E.
forming the W. boundary of the island of Montreal.
The Indian Village of the Two Mountains, is on the N.
side of the Ottawa, 30 m. W. of Lachine. It is inhabited
by the remnants of the Mohawk and Algonquin tribes, whose
dwellings are separated by a Roman Catholic church. Here
the river contracts in width to about half a mile, for a dis-
W
v\
CALEDONIA SPRINGS — D Y T O W N.
173
tance of a mile^ and then expands and forms the Upper
Lake of the Two Mountains, for 9 ni. when it again contracts
to half a mile in width.
We next yoisa Regawly and at Carillon 8 m. farther, avoid
the rapids by another lock and canal. At this place tourists
to the Caledonia Springs, take the stage from Point Firrtune
on the opposite or S. side, to VOrigindj a delightful ride of
18 m., amidst picturesque scenery, on the S. bank of tho
river. From thence to Caledonia Springs 9 m. farther S.
Caledonia Springs, near the Grand river, in the Ottawa
district, are about 75 m. from Montreal. They were known
only to a few hunters till 1835, when an attempt was made
to clear the forest and erect houses. In 1837 the first pub*
lie house was opened for visiters ; since then several others
have been built, as also a Protestant, and a Roman Catholio
church, and several dwellings. Besides tho accommoda-
tions, there have been added a billiard room, a race-course,
a nine-pin alley, a bathing house, and a circular railway.
The principal springs are the White Sulphur, the Saline,
and the Gas Spring. The waters have proved of great benefit
where iodine is eiiicacious, and are chiefly beneficial in
cases of dyspepsia, rheumatism, and cutaneous diseases;
pulmonary diseases are not benefitted by their use. Large
quantities of the water are annually bottled, and the visiters
have become Kiuch more numerous of late years.
From L'Original we ascend the Ottawa r. the banks of
which continue to present wild and romantically beautiful
scenery, for 55 m. to
By TOWN, 120 m. W. of Montreal, and 130 m. N. E. of
Kingston, by canal route. It is situated on the S. W. side
of the river, and although commenced as late as 1827, it is
now a thriving and business place, containing about 5,000
inhabitants, a courthouse and jail, 4 churches, several good
hotels, two large storehouses for the use of the ordnance and
1 1
p2
i »
174
M (> N T HEAL T (> Q t R B E C.
Commissariat dupurtmonts, 3 Hubstantial buildings on the
highest eminence for the accommodation of troops, an ex-
cellent military hospital, and numerous millf, &o. Bytown
is connected with Kingston by the Hideau canal 130 m. in
length, constructed by the home government, for the safe
transportation of arms and ammunition during the time of
war, from Kingston to Montreal.
, Above the entrance of the canal into the Ottawa are tho
Chaudierk Falls, a picturesque and magnificent series 3 U ft.
perpendicular in the whole. The Grande Chaudiere or Big
Kettle at the broadest channel of the river, is so called from
the banin into which it falls, being over 300 feet deep. The
Rideau or Curtain falls, so called from their resemblance to
drapery, are at the mouth of the river below the village, and
present an unbroken sheet of water with a fall of 37 ft.
MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 180 M.
Numerous splendid Steamers navigate the St. Lawrence
between the above places ; and as passengers are obliged to
sleep one night on board the boat, it is advisable in.returning
from Quebec to arrange the time of departure so as to view
in the daylight that portion of the river and scenery which
has been previously passed in the night time. The scenery
on both shores of the river is extremely varied and beautiful.
It consists of numerous small scattered villages, built around
their churches, which are prominent features in the view.
Between the villages are isolated dwellings and cultivated
grounds, so that few interruptions of forest land intervene,
thus forming an almost unbroken street.
As w^e leave Montreal we have a fine view of St. Helenas
island and Longueil ; we then enter the Rapids of St. Mary^
and pass Longue Point and Point au Trembles on the island
of Montreal on the left, Boucherville on the right, and the
Island of St. Theresa in the riyer. _.
f-^.,.
V A R fi N N E S — S ORE I. — T II R E E R I V E R S. 175
Vttfenneaf on the S. side, 15 m. from Montreal, pfetents a
beautiful appearance, with its church \fith two spiren sur-
rounded by neat dwellings, and in the back ground the
Mountain of Rouville, surmounted with an immei.so cross
seen for a great distance. From this place the hills behind
Montreal are still visible. The village is a place of con-
siderable resort on account of the mineral springs about a
mile distant. There is a good Hotel, and a commodious
bath-house.
We next pass Contrecoeur, Renpentigny, St. Sulpice, La
Morage, and Berthier, and arrive at
William Henry ^ or Sorel, on the R. bank. 45 m. below
Montreal ; it is an old town built on the site oi a fort, erected
in 1665, at the mouth of Sorel r. It is well laid out with
streets at right angles, and a square in the centre, and con-
tains about 2,000 inhabitants. The Fort at Chambly was
occupied by the Americans under Genl. Thomas on their
retreat from Quebec, in 1776. The river Sorel and the canal
connects the St. Lawrence at this place with Lake Cham-
plain at St. John's.
Passing several islands, we enter Ldce St. Peter, 5 m. be-
low Sorel, which is formed by an expansion of the St. Law-
rence. It is from 12 to 15 m. wide ami about 25 m. long,
possessing scenery and craft peculiar to itself, in the northern
lights and golden sunsets, anch the vast rafts of timber float-
ing with the current.
Port St. Francis, is the next steamboat landing 83 m. from
Montreal. We then pass the villages of Duloup, Machiche,
and Pt. du Lac, on the left.
Three Rivers, is the next landing, on the N. side, and is
about half way between Montreal and Quebec. It derives
its name from twasmall islands at the mouth of the St. Man-
rice, which divide it into three channels. The town, the
third in importance in the province, and the oldest in Canada,
k ii Mi
hi
I
Hi;
176
MONTREAL TO QUEBEC.
is well situated oa the W. bank of the St. Maurice, it con-
taius nearly 5000 inhabitants, 2 churches, a convent, a coui t-
house, jail, &c. , . '•,*„ . .-A > ; .,
Cap de la Magdalene, on the L., Gentilles on the R., Cham-
plain and Batiscon on the L., and St. Pierre on the R., are
places between Three Rivers, and
St. Anne, on the N. or left bank of the St. Lawrence, near
the mouth of the river of the same name.
The Richelieu rapids are deep and very swift for 8 or 10
miles, and are descended without danger, although the chan-
nel is very intricate and narrow.
The towns next en route are Grondines on the L., Lotbi-
niere on 'the R., Dechambault, Port Neuf, and Cape Sante on
the L., St. Croix and S. Antoine on the R., St. Augustin and
Cape Rouge, on the L. ; at the latter place 8 m. from Quebec,
the citadel first presents itself to view.
St. Nicholas, and New Liverpool are on the right, near the
entrance of the Chaudiere river into the St. Lawrence. The
Falls on this river are much frequented by the lovers of the
beautiful. ' ,: ("i :.' i-'^^
As you approach the city, you pass Sillery river and Cove,
and Wolfe^s Cove, where Genl. Wolfe landed in 1759, before
fighting the battle of the Plains of Abraham . The first view
of Quebec in sailing down the St. Lawrence is striking in the
extreme. The citadel and foWified towers, the city with its
houses roofed with tin and glittering in the sun, the shipping,
and the surrounding objects form an animated and striking
picture.
/ QUEBEC,
The capital of the British possessions in America, occupies
the extremity of a high peninsular ridge, formed by the junc-
tion of the Charles river with the St. Lawrence, and called
.- r%
QUEBEC.
177
ipies
lunc-
Cape Diamond. The situation though singular, half being
built on a plain, the other half on the top of a steep perpen-
dicular rock 350 ft. high, is very advantageous and imposing.
Though 350 m. from its mouth, the river here is 3 m. in
breadth below the town, and narrowing to a m. directly
abreast of the citadel, forming a basin between the city and
the Isle of Orleans, capacious enough to shelter a thousand
vessels at one time.
The Citadel occupies the highest point, and is elevated
350 ft. above the river, presenting almost perpendicular cliffs
towards the water. The city is built from the w^aier's edge,
along the fool ol' these cliffs, round the point of the promon-
tory, and ascending upwards to the borders of the citadel. It
is divided from the difference of elevation, into the Upper
and Lower town, the former including all that is above and
within the ramparts or fortified lines, and the latter all that
which is below. The lower town has narrow and dirty, and
in parts steep streets ; the streets in the upper though rather
narrow, are generally, clean and well paved or macadam-
ized. In both towns the houses are built of stone, and in the
upper they are mostly roofed with tin ; they are destitute of
architectural beauty, small and incommodious, with high
steep roofs, and a double row of projecting garret windows,
and lofty chimneys. The shops are small and mean, with a
small variety charged at high prices.
The traveller on landing at Quebec winds his way up
through sleep and narrow streets to the fortified barrier,
passing through Prescott gate, to the right of which he sees
the imposing structure of the new Parliament House, and on
the left, a double flight of mean and straggling wooden steps
leading to one of the oldest streets as an avenue to the Place
d'Armes. Crossing this last he passes the English and
French Cathedrals, the Government offices, and Palace of
Justice, on his right ; and has the site of the old Castle of St.
12
178
QUEBEC.
Lewis, and the platform overlooking the harbor, on his left.
Ascending still more, he reaches the ramparts and gates on
the upper side of the city, beyond which is the open lawn in
front of the glacis, and the suburb of St. Roch, on the level
ground along the S. bank of the St. Charles river. ^' ' «
The public buildings are very irregularly scattered over
the city ; but several are so advantageously and prominently
placed as to be additions to the general view.
The Parliament House, one of the most perfect, stands upon
the ground supposed to be the spot first cleared by Cham-
plain for his fort, in 1608. It stands on a mass of rock made
level by art, and extending to the brink of a perpendicular
precipice, about 100 ft. above the river. Along the edge of
this precipice, is the Grand Battery of Quebec, on which is a
fine promenade, commanding an extensive view from its
platform. On this spot, originally cleared for a fort, the
palace of the bishop was subsequently erected, and a portion
of the old episcopal residence is still in existence, and is the
seat of the Canadian legislature. *
The Roman Catholic Cathedral fronting the E. side of Mar-
ket-Place is a spacious and massive ornamented stone build-
ing, with a lofty and well-proportioned tower. It is open at
all hours, and contains some good paintings. Near it is the
Seminary a large building of stone in the form of a parallelo-
gram surrounded by a fine garden ; it has also a museum of
natural curiosities.
The Hotel Dieu in the lowest part of the Upper Town, is a
substantial stone structure with wings, founded by the
Duchess of Aiguillon in 1637; it is inhabited by nuns who
relieve the sick and distressed. The chapel a neat and beau-
tiful building, contains some fine paintings. .
The Ursulinc Nunnery near the middle of the Upper Town,
was founded in 1639, and is a neat building surrounded by a
garden. The nuns are chiefly employed in educating young
WJT.'T/»"
PUBLIC BUI LDING S.
179
m, IS a
)y the
b who
beau-
iTown,
Id by a
1 young
females, and are very rigid and retired. Only persons of dis-
tinction are admitted, but admittance to the church can be
had on application to the chaplain. The church is orna-
mented with decorations and handsome paintings. Within
this convent was deposited the body of the French general
Montcalm. Besides the cathedral there are 4 other Catholic
churches ', an English cathedral, and 4 chapels of the church
of England ; 2 Scotch churches ', and 2 Wesleyan chapels.
West of the Upper Town Market House, is the ancient
monastery of the Jesuits, now converted into Barracks for the
troops of the garrison.
Near the cathedral is the Place d'Armes where on the E.
of the Pentagon, stood the castle of St. Lewis, of which the
foundation was laid by Champlain in 1624. The position is
a very commanding one, on the very edge of an almost per-
pendicular precipice of rock, 200 ft. above and near the river.
The castle was the residence of the French and English
governors, until it was destroyed by fire in 1834. Lord Dur-
ham has since had the site cleared of the rubbish and level-
led, floored with wood and converted into a spacious plat-
form, with a fine iron railing at the edge of the precipice ;
making it one of the most beautiful promenades imaginable —
commanding an extensive view of the St. Lawrence down as
far as the Isle of Orleans — the harbour filled with ships, and
the opposite bank of the river, with Point-Levi, the village
of D'Aubigny, and the road leading up through one continu-
ous line of cottages to the falls of the Chaudiere, with the
mountains in the distance, gradually fading from view.
On the S. side and nearly adjoining is the Court House, a
plain neat stone building. On the corner of Fort st. is a large
building used for public offices, the front room of which on
the first story contains the museum of the Society of Litera-
ture, Science, &c. ; it is well worth seeing. Crossing the
Place d'Armes to Des Carrieres st. the visitor will see the
f-^i^:
180
QUEBEC.
Monument, erected in memory of Wolf and Montcalm. It
conBists of a neat pillar standing on a base about 5 ft., by 6 ft.
and is 65 ft. in height.
Quebec is very strongly fortified, and may be called the
Gibraltar of America. It is surrounded by a lofty wall, and
the rock on which it stands can be approached only on the
W. side, which is defended by the citadel and other works
constructed on a gigantic scale and on the most improved
principles. The fortress accommodates the garrison, and
contains a parade ground, depots for stores, &c. The line of
fortifications commands the city and the St. Lawrence, and
is intersected by five gates. If not accompanied by a citi-
zen, you can obtain a ticket of admission from the adjutant
general's office in St. Louis near St. Ursula st. To have the
best view of the citadel, enter at the grand western gate,
proceed round the course to the flag staflf and telegraph,
thence by the parapet bordering on the river to the head of
the inclined plane used by government to convey articles of
great weight for the fortress, thence round until you arrive
at the same gate. The citidel commands a magnificent
prospect.
The city also contains an armory, 3 banks, an Exchange
with a reading room well furnished, a French college which
stands very high, a royal grammar school, a national school,
a Royal Institution for the advancement of learning, a Lite-
rary and Historical society, a Mechanic's Institute establish-
ed in 1830, a public Library, a Custom-House, &c.
The climate is in extremes ; in the summer the heat is
equal to that of Naples, while the cold in winter is equal to
that of Moscow. The inhabitants numbering nearly 35,000
are chiefly of French extraction ; in the best circles the
French language is spoken w'ith great propriety ; the princi-
pal religion is the Roman Catholic. The trade of the city is
very extensive, and the largest vessels arrive at its wharves.
il! r
aim. It
by 6 ft.
lied the
rail, and
J ou the
;r works
Tiproved
3on, and
e line of
nee, and
)y a citi-
adjutant
have the
iru gate,
3legraph,
! head of
rticles of
on arrive
LgnJticent
Exchange
re which
il school,
^j a Lite-
jstablish-
heat is
equal to
ly 35,000
Vcles the
[e princi-
le city is
,'harves.
HISTORY OF QUEBEC.
181
Quebec was taken from the French in 1759, in the cele-
brated battle of the Plains of Abraham. The British under
Gen. Wolfe effected a landing at Wolfe's cove, and during
the night ascended the precipice nearly 200 ft. in height,
which was defended by a French redoubt. By daylight the
next morning they formed in battle line to meet the enemy.
Gen. Montcalm on receiving intelligence that the British had
gained the heights, broke up his camp at Beaufort, crossed
the St. Charles river, and commenced the attack at about 10
in the morning. After a severe struggle of two hours the
French gave way. Wolfe at the moment of victory received
his third and mortal wound. When lying in the arms of
his friends the exclamation was made " they fly, they fly ;"
"who" was the inquiry, "the French" was answered him.
"Then," said he, "I die happy," and shortly after expired.
Montcalm was also killed in the actioTi. The monument
erected " To the immortal memory of Wolfe and Montcalm"
is on the spot where Gen. Wolfe is supposed to have died.
During the American revolution, Gen. Montgomery in con-
nection with Gen. Arnold made an attack on the city. Gen.
Montgomery approached by way of lake Champlain, took
St. John's and Montreal, where he awaited the approach of
Gen. Arnold, who was advancing towards Quebec by way
of the Kennebec river through MSine. After thirty days se-
vere m3,rching Arnold reached the St. Lawrence by Chau-
diere river, and descenced to Point Levi opposite Quebec,
which he reached on the 9th of November. On the night
of the 13th he crossed over and landed 500 men at Wolfe's
cove, and was joined by Montgomery with a larger force on
Dec'r 1st. The city was invested and bombarded, but with-
out much effect ; a night attack was made by Montgomery
on the southern, and Arnold on the northern side of the
Lower Town ; though made with great courage and impetu-
osity both attacks failed ; in the former, Gen. Montgomery
Q
182
VICINITY OF QUEBEC.
and nearly all of his personal staff were killed ; in the latter,
Gen. Arnold with most of his followers were taken prisoners.
The remains of Montgomery were interred by a soldier, and
removed in 1818 to New York, where they rest in front of
St. Paul's church. Other attacks were made upon the city
during the winter, none of which were important.
Hotels; Albion hotel. Palace St., and Payne's Hotel, St.
Anne st., in the Upper Town ; and the Ottawa House, and St.
Lawrence Hotel in the Lower. '*;,»'. • >
*• «f
'^^^:■^■'-
The country round Quebec is broken, wild, wooded, and
highly picturesque. The following places will prove ex-
ceedingly interesting to the tourist. Carriages at reasonable
rates, can be obtained for conveyance.
:iHA
THE FALLS OF MONTMORENCI,
About 8 m. N. E. of Quebec, on the river of the same
name, at its entrance into the St. Lawrence, are one of the
most beautiful and striking objects in America. The fall
bears no comparison to Niagara in magnitude and the mass
of its waters, but the ample woods with which it is fringed,
the broken rocks which surround and intersect its channel,
tossing it into a foam resembling snow, render it perhaps a
more beautiful scene. The fall is 100 ft. in breadth, with a
perpendicular height of nearly 260 ft. The visiter will be-
hold the falls in all their grandeur and beauty by viewing
them from different points ; from the summit of the hill be-
sides the view of the falls, with an ordinary magnifying glass,
a glorious view of Quebec, Point Levi, the St. Lawrence,
&c. presents itself. A walk of a few miles above the falls,
will amply repay you for the trouble.
Remains of fortifications may still be seen on the precipice
N. £. of the falls. It was on the high grounds that Genl.
CHAUDIEKE FALLS— LAKE ST. CHARLES. 183
Wolfe made an attack on the French in 1759, and was se-
verely repulsed, a short time before the battle of the Plains
of Abraham. ^^ -T'v i;i;*vf' *.«'^.e > f-
In returning Ave pass through Beauport, a scattered village,
containing some handsome country residences, and cross the
St. Charles river, enjoying splendid views of some of the
principal points. _ +,, ^ . , . .
.Iv:.?
if^'
THE FALLS OF THE CHAUOIERE,
.#t
About 12 m. S. of the city are wild and interesting. The
river is narrowed to about 400 ft. across, at the cascade ; the
depth of the fall is about 120 ft. The stream is divided at
the fall by rocks, into three currents; these partially re-unite
before reaching their basin, and the agitated waves dashing
against each other maintain a turbulent whirlpool, which is
increased by projecting rocks, which break the water in its
descent. ...
The excursion to Cape Rouge is very pleasant. Wo leave
the city by the St. Lewis gate, and cross the Plains of Abra-
ham, to the right of where Wolfe fell. The Race course, the
road leading to Wolfe's cove, and handsome country seats
are passed on the route, with occasional glimpses of the
river. The ride in returning presents still handsomer views
j^nd scenery. , - - ,
An agreeable excursion is also made to Lake St. Charles
16 m. N. W. passing through the Indian village of Lorette,
about 8 m. from the city. Lorette is built upon an elevated
situation commanding an extensive and agreeable landscape,
bounded only by the distant southern mountains, and em-
bracing a bold view of Quebec and its suburbs. The view
of the cascades of the St. Charles, tumbling and foaming over
the rocks and ledges, surrounded by rugged and perpendicu-
"A-
184
QUEBEC TO THE SAGUENAV.
larly elevated wooded cliffs, as seen from the bank and
bridge at the head of the dell, is quite picturesque. The In-
dian inhabitants of the village, though retaining many of their
piimitive habits, have also received many others from the
whites that have contributed but little to their welfare.
A VOYAGE TO THE SAGUENAY.
\>y
The St. Lawrence which opposite to Quebec is not more
than 131,4 yards across, below the city begins to increase
rapidly. Immediately beyond the island of Orleans it is
11m. broad, at the mouth of the Saguenay it is 18 m., and
continues increasing until it attains a width of 100 miles at
its mouth. A delightful and interesting trip is usually made
to the Saguenay, by which the grand and magnificent sce-
nery of the two rivers can be enjoyed , it occupies three or
four days. ^ '
Between Quebec and the Isle of Orleans, the channel of
the river is comparatively narrow, with but little variety on
the S. shore, and neat settlements on the N. shore which are
skirted on the N. with lofty hills, too distant to produce much
effect.
The Falls of Montmorenci, 7 m. below Quebec, with a
perpendicular fall of 250 ft. are seen in all their romantic
beauty from the deck of the boat. A short distance below
is the battle ground on which the English were defeated by
the French in 1759. >"->^^! !«*.♦= > .. .-. ^i v « - .
The river is divided into two channels by the Isle of Or-
leans, which continue for most of the distance, the south
channel being the most navigable. The island is a fertile
tract about 21 m. long by 6 m. wide, elevated in some parts
100 ft. above the river, partly covered with extensive forest
tracts. In passing through the main channel, to the left on
the island is St. Patrick's Hole, 11m. from Quebec, having
•Jjn,
QUEBEC TO THE SAOUENAV.
185
anchorage for the largest vessels ; and St. Laurent 14 m. a
email neat place settled by French Canadians.
The St. Lawrence below the Island is studded with islands,
some beautifully covered with neat dwellings and cultivated
fields, contrasting well with others that are of bare rock, or
covered with woods j the S. shore presents a succession of
villages and settlements each clustering round its church,
mostly ornamented with a spire, while on the opposite side
are bold and lofty hills crowned with forests and impendii)g
over the margin of the river, with numerous valleys formed
by the mountain streams. Frequently the view is varied
by settlements extending nearly to the tops of the mountains
presenting to the eye neat dwellings and luxuriant fields.
Amongst the thousands of vessels which visit Quebec during
the season of navigation, many of them are of the largest
class, adding no little to the beauty of the river scenery.
Madam Island, and several others, are below Orleans, 26
m. from Quebec.
Cape Tourment, on the N. side, 4 m. below, is a bold pro-
montory nearly 2000 ft. in height, and which like the rest
of the coast can be seen at a great distance through the clear
atmosphere. ■ ^ * ' * " ' • '■'■'■ "'^ ^
At Grosse Island, opposite, is the Quarantine station for
vessels ascending the river. - •■ '
St. Thomas on the S. side, 32 m. is situated at the mouth
of South river. Crane island 36 m., Goose island 45 m. and
the Pillars 55 m. are small islands; the two former are cul-
tivated, and on the latter is a lighthouse.
Here it is scarcely necessary to call the attention of the
tourist as the scenery possesses beauties not to be overlooked.
A floating light is stationed at the narrow and dangerous
channel called the Traverse, 60 m. below Quebec. • '
Isle aux Coudres or Isle of Filberts, 65 m. is a large island
near St. Patd's hay on the N. shore. It is paid to have been
q2
18G
QUE DEC TO THE S A G U E N A V.
po called by Cartier on account of the great quantity of liazel
nnl8 he found here.
St. Anne, on the S. shore 70 m. is quite a large settlement
containing a Catholic college. Beyond Goose cape 75 m. the
shores become less visible in the distance, the river being
nearly 18 m. wide. • - . . :- •
Mai Bay, is on the N. side, 80 m. at the mouth of Mai
river. ; *.^ ,.
Kamouraska, on the S. side 90 m. contains about 1500 in-
habitants and is much resorted to by the Canadians during
the su nmer months, as there is excellent bathing and fishing
on the . *nall islands in front of the village. It is surrounded
by a fertile district with abrupt and sterile hills in the rear.
The Pilgrim island^, a rocky group 105 m. are on the right.
Hare island, 109 m. is near the middle of the river on the
left. .'.V' ■ -^^ :■.■ --\. ■' ^- .■' , .
Du Loup, on the south side 120 m. is at the mouth of the
river of the same name, and contains about 1500 inhabitants.
Before reaching the mouth of the Saguenay r. the St. Law-
rence is much discoloured by the Saguenay waters which
are of a blackish hue. Red Island is off the mouth of the
river, and nearly opposite is Green island.
Tadousac, on the N. side 135 m. is a post of the Hudson
Bay company at the mouth of the Saguenay. The trading
with the Indians is carried on by one of the agents who re-
side here. The place contains a Catholic chapel, stores, and
a few dwellings. The flag staff is surrounded by several
pieces of cannon, and stands on an eminence 50 ft. above the
harbour, at the base of a mountain peak 912 ft. high. The
eminence commands an extensive view of the shores of the
St. Lawrence and the Saguenay.
The Saguenay, is one of the most extraordinary rivers in
the world, and the largest in North America, the St. Law-
rence excepted, E. of the Alleghanies. It is the outlet of
THE SAGUEXAY RIVER.
187
Mai
Lalco St. John, MO m. from its mouth, anil is navigable iur
90 m. to its fall^, having for 50 m., moro the appearance of a
long mountain laivu, than of a river. Lake St. John is the
centre of an extensive region the water.^ of which How into
it by twelve principal rivers, and are discharged to the east
by the Saguenay. The scenery is of the moat wild and
magnificent description.
■ The passage of the waters of this river is one of the won-
ders of nature. They penetrate through a mountauious tract,
composed of eienito granite, forming an immense canal in
many places, with banks of perpendicular rocks rising from
a thousand to fifteen hundred ft. above the surface of the
river, which is frttm 100 to 150 fathoms deep nearly the
whole way, and from one to three miles broad. In many
places the largest vessels may run close to the perpendicu-
lar rocks, with 100 fathoms water. The tide rises and the
river is navigable 7 m. above Chicoutimi, where the rapids
of the outlet of Lake St. John commence.
Not the least remarkable feature of this river is the ridgo
of rocks lying across its mouth. This ridge is below the
surface, and through it there is a channel about 120 ft. deep,
within which the depth increases to 840 ft., so that the bed
of the Saguenay is absolutely 600 ft. below that of the St.
Lawrence into which it falls, a depth which is preserved
many miles up the river. The course of the tide, meeting
with resistance from these rocks, occasions a violent rippling
or surf, which is much increased and exceedingly dangerous
to boats during the ebb tide.
After entering the the river hills soon rise abruptly from
the water's edge, presenting an appearance somewhat similar
to the entrance from the N. into the ' Highlands,' on the Hud-
son. Tete du Boule, is a round mountain peak on the N.
side. The Two Profiles, on the N. side, a few miles farther
up, are quite appropriately named. St. Louis Island^ is a
188
SCENERY OF THE SAOUENAY.
rugged rock, 18m. above Tadousac. At St. John^s Tray on
the S. 28 m. and at the mouth of the river Marguerite on the
N. are extensive lumber establishments.
Eternity Point and Cape Trinity, on the S. side, 34 m. are
two grand and enormous masses of rock, rising abruptly from
the water's edge to the height of 1500 ft. The three sum-
mits on Trinity Cape, bear some resemblance to three hu-
man heads. Trinity Cove is a charming recess in the shore
aheltered by the two jwints; its quiet and lonely beauty con-
trasted with the wild grandeur of tho huge masses of rock
together with the majestic river, form one of the level i<>8t of
nature's beauties. These points form but one feature in the
grand and picturesque scenery which continues to meet the
delighted eye of the tourist.
In the niche in Statue Point formerly stood a rock resem-
bling a huge human figure, but it has fallen into the water.
The Tableau on the S. shore, is an upright rock rising almost
perpendicularly to the hei: ht of several hundred feet.
The Ha-IIa, or Great. Bay, 57 m. is a body of water on the
left. At its head aio several extensive saw-mills, which
with the houses for the workmen, make quite a settlement.
At Chicoutimi, 12 m. farther, the navigation is suddenly
interrupted by a succession of falls and rapids, which can
be passed by vessels of a large size, only when the tide is
up. The village consists of several dwellings and a Roman
Catholic chapel built by the Jesuits about two centuries ago.
The settlement is another trading post belciir in:j to the Hud-
son Bay Company. The t hapel is beautifr ily Bit..' L J in the
centre of a green sward sloping to the rivcv, and is annually
visited by a missionary priest.
The country between Chicoutimi and Lake St. John, about
C rti. father to the W. is a fine tract intersected by several
liv -.1. ssuing from St. John, possessing a fertile soil, and of
a i«£o rui^'^bd character than characterizes the banks of the
-^^Jf^T!'
MONTREA- TO NEW YORK OH BOSTON
189
the
Saguenay for he first ou nl. The climate is soniewhul simi-
hir to that of Moiilicil. The touusl (Mm enjoy himeclf wuh
fishing or hunting, bolu of whicli are excellonl. '■■•
On returning as you approach Quebec th^ view of the
city, itn citadel, and suburbs, with the falls ui Montmorenci,
and the adjacent country, is really magiiinceut.
From Quebec to Montreal, see p. 174, and reverse the
route ; bearing in mind to take the boat from Quebec at such
an hour as will afTord you a view in dayli_^ht ot that which
you passed during the night on yourdownw nd trip. The ap-
proach to Montreal in ascending the river is extremely beau-
tiful; the mount behind the city clothed in ich foliage, the
numerous country seats, the spires and edilii es of the city,
and the wooded island in front, all join to pret Mit a rich and
diversified landscape.
From Montreal the tourist can either return t<^ New York
by the route on Lake Champlain, see p. 96 and reverse the
route, or, by way of Niagara Falls, see p. 166 luid reverse
the route ; or, if he wishes to visit the New England states,
he will take the steamboat from Montreal to La Prairie,
thence by R. R. to St. John^s ; thence by the neat and com-
fortable steamboats to Burlington, Vt., described on p. 98.
Besides the following route, stages also leave Bl rlington
to Albany 150 m. via Middleburg 39 m. Castleton 7( m. and
Troy 144 m.j to Whitehall 70 m. j to Phillipsburg, L'anada,
41m. via St. Albans 24 m. ; and to Derby 80 m.
From Burlington, by a daily line of stages passing liuough
Millston 8 m. Richmond 5 m. Bolton 8 m. Waterburii 7 m.
Middlesex 6 m.
MoNTPELiER 6 m. and 40 from Burlington, is the capital
of the state, situated on a plain of moderate extent, built at
190
MONTREAL TO BOSTON.
;« *
:i\y
■i ' l'
the junction of the two branches of Onion or Winooskie r.
and surrounded by elevated hills. The village contains a
courthouse, jail, 4 churches, several mills and manufactories
and 1721 inhabitants. The State-hotise, built of granite, is a
beautiful building 150 ft. in length, with two wings, and a
projecting portico of 6 Doric columns, the whole surmounted
by a dome 100 ft. high to the top.
From Montpelier by stage to Concord; 102 m. over the
road which passes through the most elevated portion of the
Green Mountains, along the margin of the river, and amidst
mountain scenery of the most romantic character. Before
reaching Concord we pass through Barre 7 m. Washington
8 m. Chelsea 9 m. Stafford 11m. Norwichl2 m. Hanover 1 m.
containing the buildings of Dartmouth college, Lebanon 4 m.
£nfield 8 m. Springfield 7 m. Wilmot 8m. Andover 6m. Salis-
bury 6 m. Boscawan 7 m. and Concord 9 m. described on
p. 244, thence by R. R. via Nashua and Lowell to Boston, 76 m.
total distance 218 m.
If the tourist intends visiting the White Mountains he
will take the stage to Littleton, N. H. 40 m. E. thence by
stage tri-weekly through the Notch to Conway, thence to
Portland, Me. and by R. R. to Boston. v ^v^
The route from Littleton to the foot of the mountains is
partly through a cultivated country, and the remainder
through an extensive forest. The first view of the White
mountains is obtained a short distance from Littleton, but
Alt. Washington 6234 ft. high is not seen till arriving near
their foot. The first view is magnificent, and increases in
grandeur and sublimity the nearer we approach them. They
are next to the loftiest in N. America E. of the Rocky Moun-
tains ; their principal peaks are Jefferson 5261 ft. Adams 5383,
Madison 5039, Monroe 4932, and Quincy 4470 ft. From
their summits a w ido expanse of country for many miles can
be seen.
H
THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.
191
)skie r.
tains a
ictories
ite, is a
I, and a
lounted
ver the
I of the
amidst
Before
ihington
ver 1 m.
ion 4 m.
[n. Salis-
ibed on
fn, 76 m.
AiNS he
|ence by
isnce to
itains is
inainder
White
Iton, but
Ing near
eases in
\. They
Moun-
is 5383,
From
ties can
** The Notch or Gap is on the W. side of the mountains, and
is a narrow and deep defile 2 m. in length, in one place only
22 ft. wide. The road passes through this notch following
the course of the head stream of the Saco. The mountains,
otherwise a continued range, are here cloven down to their
base opening a passage for the river, which receives tributary
brooks falling down the sides of the mountain in beautiful
cascades, some of them within sight of the road, presenting
the wildest and most romantic scenery.
' Mount Washington is ascended on the S. E. side, following
the course of the Saco. After climbing up the mountain for
a considerable distance, the trees begin to diminish in height,
till at the elevation of about 4000 ft. you come to a region
of dwarfish evergreens, putting forth horizontal branches,
closely interwoven with each other, and surrounding the
mount with a formidable hedge. On emerging from this
thicket you are above all woods, at what is called the bald
part, which consists of a huge pile of naked rocks of granite
and gneiss. After attaining its summit you are recompensed
by the goi^eous prospect opened before you. Innumerable
mountains, lakes, ponds, rivers, towns, and villages meet the
enraptured eye, while the dim Atlantic stretches along the
eastern horizon. To the N. are seen the lofty summits of
Adams and Jefferson, and to the E. a little detached from
the range, stands Mt. Madison ; far to the N. E. are the Ka-
tadin Mountains j on the W. the Green Mountains in Ver-
mont j and 120 m. to the S. W. the lofty Monadnock in N.
Hampshire. Among the near picturesque objects are Um-
bagog and Winnipiseogee lakes, Androscoggin and Connecti-
cut rivers, and numerous smaller lakes and streams. Beneath
and around, the mountains extend many miles from the
summit, in every direction, resembling in their shape the
waves of the sea in a storm. The elevated summits are
covered M'ith snow 9 or 10 months in the year.
■»=•«
192
MONTREAL TO BOSTON.
The view from the summit of 3It. Lafayette presents also
a splendid view, including over 50 summits, some of which
are coyered with verdure to the top, while others are com-
posed of naked rocks. Down the sides of many of them
may be seen slides or avalanches of earth, rocks and trees,
one of which in 1829 destroyed the Willey family consisting
of nine persons. The most sublime views of some of the
tracks of the avalanches may be seen in passing through the
Notch.
In the road through Franconia Notch on the mountain op-
posite to Lafayette, is the Profile or old man of the mountain,
a remarkable curiosity situated on the brow of the peak or
precipice which rises almost perpendicularly from the sur-
face of a small lake, directly in front to the height of nearly
1000 ft. All the principal features of the human face, as
seen in a profile, are formed with surprising exactness. Other
curiosities in this vicinity are the Basin and the Tulpit.
From Crawford's House to Bartlett is 7 m. thence to Con-
way 10 m. Fryehurgh, 10 m. from Conway is a considerable
village celebrated in the early history of the country.
From Conway the traveller can continue on to Portsmouth,
to Concord, or to Portland, thence to Boston. The lakes and
streams of this part of the country are surrounded by splen-
did scenery, and abound with very fine trout ; see p. 245.
f
^wf ^W'-? J •■'■.•■•:'■ :^:-\ " ■>'~.W" ■■■' -^ ^r^ '"fi
• ■*.■ I- • ,
SJi?"
*
its also ,
which
e com*
f them
1 trees,
isistiug
of the
ugh the
tain op-
ountain,
peak or
the sur-
f nearly
face, as
s. Other
pit.
to Con-
iderable
[smouth,
kkes and
|y splen-
245.
's «
rv
'•■!".■
NEW HAVEN.
103
NEW YORK TO BOSTON.
I. VIA NEW HAVEN AND SPRINGFIELD. 238 M. 13^ H.
This is a very favorite line of travel as it passes through
the most interesting portions of Massachusetts and Connec-
ticut.
Passengers take the steamboat from Peck slip on the
East r. at 6i A. M. and pass through Hell or Hurl Gate, then
pass by Frog's Neck, New Rochelle, Greenwich point, Nor-
walk Islands Ct., Bridgeport, Stratford Pt., Neck point, and
arrive at the city of • ^ - ••' ^ •* - , .,/ ^ . ,. v
I '
NEW HAVEN
>
Beautifully situated around the head of the harbour of the
same name, lying on a plain inclining gradually toward the
water and surrounded in the background by hills, two of
which as the traveller approaches the city form imposing
features, as they rise almost perpendicularly to the height of
330 to 370 ft. It is the semi-capital of Connecticut with
Hartford. It is laid out with great regularity, the houses
generally are neat, some very elegant, and is by many con-
sidered the prettiest town in the U. States. The city extends
about 3 m. from E. to W. and 2 m. from N. to S. and contains
about 6 sq. m. ; it is divided into two parts, the old town,
and the new township, in each of which is an open square.
The old town was originally laid out in the form of a
square, half a mile on a side, divided into nine smaller
squares ; these have been subdivided into four parts by in-
tersecting streets, except the centre square which is divided
only by Temple st. running through it from N. to S. The
eastern portion is unoccupied and forms a delightful prome-
13 R
■Tr
194
NEW YORK TO BOSTON.
nade ground
On the W. portion, three splendid churches,
fronting on Temple st. have been erected. The southern one
is the Episcopal church in the finest Gothic style ; next above
it is ihe First Congregational church, built of brick, with a
fine Doric portico, and a lofty steeple j N. of this is the
2d Congregational church, a beautiful edifice, of brick, with
a handsome cupola. Near the centre of the western portion,
is the State-house, a large and splendid edifice of the Doric
order, after the Parthenon at Athens, having an appearance
of uncommon beauty and majesty. On the N. W. corner is
the Methodist church, built of brick. - ; >« ,
On the W. side and facing to the E. are the buildings of
Yale College; these consist of 4 college halls, 104 ft. long
by 40 ft. wide, 4 stories high, each containing 32 rooms for
students ; a hall for theological students ; a chapel devoted
to religious worship and ordinary exhibitions; a lyceum con-
taining the library and recitation rooms ; and an atheneum
containing rooms for academic purposes. These college
buildings present an imposing front; they are all of brick and
have a uniform front of 600 ft. long including narrow passage
ways between. On one of the buildings is a neat cupola
built after the model of the Temple of the Winds and fitted
for the use of a splendid achromatic telescope made by
Dolland. In the rear of these is another range of buildings,
consisting of the chemical laboratory ; the Commons' hall, in
the second story of which is contained the mineralogical
cabinet, well known as the most extensive and valuable in
the U. States ; a stuccoed building, containing a fine gallery
of paintings by Trumbull and others ; and two other build-
ings, one for the law and the other for the medical depart-
ments, in the latter of which is a fine anatomical museum
and library. Yale College is one of the most extensive and
celebrated institutions of learning in the Union and has edu-
cated more eminent men than any other institution. It was
4
ts
NEW HAVEN.
195
originally founded at Killingworlh, in 1701, but was removed
to Saybrook in 1707, and to New Haven in 1717. It has a
president and 31 professors, and a very valuable library of
34,500 vols.
On the N. W. corner of the old town is the Public Cemetery
beautifully laid out and ornamented, containing 17acreS; and
adorned with many elegant monuments.
The State G§neral Hospital consists of a central building
with two wings, 118 ft. in length and 48 ft. in width, built of
stone, and stuccoed, and has a fine colonnade.
The city contains 20 churches, a custom house, jail, alms*
house, museum, 3 banks, a savings institution, and many
popular and scientific institutions. Pop. 12,960.
The harbor of New Haven is safe and spacious, but shal-
low. The West and Quinnepac, two small rivers, empty
into the bay. Long Wharf, to which additions have been
made, is 3,943 ft. in length, the longest in the U. States.
The foreign trade of the port is chiefly with the West Indies ;
its coasting trade is quite considerable ; a daily line of steam-
boats connects it with New York, and also several lines of
packets. The Farmington canal connects it with Northamp-
ton, Mass. and with the Connecticut r. near it. Its manu-
factories are chiefly of fire-arms, boots and shoes, paper,
carpets, &c.
New Haven was settled in 1638, and chartered as a city
in 1784. In 1779, it was entered by the British under Gov.
Tryon, who in a short time destroyed property to the amount
of $84,566.
Hotels ; Assembly House, Court and Orange sts. ; Eagle
Tavern, George st. opposite State st. ; Tontine, opposite Col-
lege square.
West Rock, 2 m. N. W. of the city is a perpendicular bluff",
400 ft. in height, on the top of which is the cave in which
twoof the regicides of Charles I. secreted themselves for three
19G
NEW YORK TO BOSTON.
or four years. East Rock. 2 m. N. E. of the city is 370 ft.
high from whence a very fine view of the surrounding
scenery may be had.
Leaving New Haven by R. R. we pass through the flou-
rishing and enterprising manufacturing towns Wallingford,
and Meriden, and after a two hours' pleasant ride we enter
the Connecticut Valley and arrive- at Hartford, 36 m. from
New Haven.
HARTFORD,
<■■-*
City, and semi-capital of the state, is at the head of sloop
navigation on the W. or right side of the Connecticut r. 50 m.
from its mouth. The compact part of the city lies upon an
alluvial flat over a mile in length and three fourths of a mile
in width, connected v;ith the upper land by a very gradual
elevation. Pop. 9468. Hotels ; City Hotel, Main st. ', United
States Hotel, States st.
The city is irregularly laid out, and divided at the S. part
by Little r. which is cros.sed by a freestone bridge on Main
St. The houses mostly of brick, are many of them large and
elegant structures. The principal streets are Main, State,
Commerce, Prospect, Washington, &c.
The principal objects of interest are; a large edifice in the
Doric style. The State House, situated in the square front-
ing on Main st. It is 114 ft. long, and including the porticoes
76 ft. wide, and 54 ft. high. Each portico is 38 ft. by 17.
On the first floor as you enter the building, to the right of the
large hall are oflices for the Treasurer and Controller ; on the
left is a large and convenient Court-room, there is also an
office for the Commissioner of the school fund. The second
floor is occupied by the two Houses of the Legislature, and
the Secretary of State. The Legislature meets here and at
New Haven each alternate year. The City Hall is a large
building in the Doric style.
HARTFORD.
197
Washtnglon College is situated on elevated ground at the
corner of Bliss and College sts. There are two edifices of
freestone, one 4 stories, containing rooms for the students,
the other 3 stories high, containing the cliapel, library, mine-
ralogical cabinet, philosophical chamber, laboratory, and re-
citation rooms. It w^as founded in 1824, has a president
and 7 professors, and a library of 6,500 vols. It is under
the direction of the Episcopalians, and is in a flourishing
condition.
The American Asylum for the Instruction of the Deaf ana
Dumb was the first institution of the kind in the country. It
was founded in 1815, commencing with 7 scholars and ra-
pidly increasing to 140. Besides the principal edifice which
is 130 ft. long and 4 stories high, there are a dining-hall,
workshops, &c. ; attached to these are ten acres of land.
There are a principal and 7 assistants j it is supported by
grants from the state, pay of the boarders, and the revenue
arising from 23,000 acres of land in Alabama, granted to
them by the U. States.
The Retreat for the Insane^ is another very interesting
charitable institution. It is finely situated on elevated ground,
from which an extensive view of the surrounding scenery
may be had. It consists of a main building with two wings,
containing accommodations for the steward and other offi-
cers; and the patients except those who are violent or noisy ;
these are confined in two cottages 40 ft. from the main build-
ing. The institution has rooms for about 90 patients ; and
has about 40 acres of cultivated ground. The patients work,
ride, or amuse themselves in various ways, and on Sunday
attend divine service, It is exceedingly well managed and
has been of great service to numbers of afflicted persons. ,
The Atheneum, an elegant edifice on Main st., contains
rooms for the Young Menh Institute and the Historical So-
ciety, and a Gallery of Paintings.
R 2
The Exchanfre biiildinss
198
NEW V O R K TO BOSTON.
r
(It Ihe corner of Main and State 8t8. are quite ornamental.
The Orphan Asylum, is delightfully situated on an eminence,
\ and consists of handsome and spacious edifices, well managed.
The celebrated " Charier oak" in which the charter of the
colony was hid, is still in a vigorous state and likely to flour-
ish for another century. It stands on a beautiful elevation,
in a lower part of the city, near the seat of the Willys fa-
mily. The original charter may be seen at the office of the
Secretary of State.
Hartford contains 13 churches, 6 banks with an aggregate
capital of $3,680,000, 4 insurance companies with a capital
of about $1,000,000, 2 markets, an arsenal, a jail on the mo-
dern penitentiary system, and a museum.
The city within a few years has been much improved,
many elegant buildings erected, and has exhibited a spirit
of enterprise and prosperity. It is well calculated to become
a considerable commercial capital. Connecticut r. has been
made navigable 220 ra. above it, and brings much produce
from the fertile country watered by it. Two steamboats ply
daily for Springfield ; and two for New York ] steam freight
vessels ply for N. York, Philadelphia, Albany, Boston, New
London, Norwich, Providence, and Fall River. Numerous
stage routes also centre in the city. The Connecticut r. is
crossed by a draw-bridge, from Morgan st. It was built in
1809, partially swept away and rebuilt in 1818, at a cost of
$150,000. There are two burying grounds, the old and the
new, both interesting and handsome spots.
Hartford was settled in 1635, and the number of settlers
was much increased the next year by the accession of Mr.
Hooker and his followers. It was incorporated as a city in
1784.
Hotels; A"^ tican Hotel, State st. and Court-house square j
Athenrnm HoLel, Main and Mulberry; and Clinton House,
15 Central ilow.
!V
SPRINGFIELD.
199
■>r» ^- •
Routes from Hartford.
tiers
Mr.
ire J
ise.
By R. R. to New Haven 36 m. ; to Springneld 26 m.
By Stage to New Haven 40 m. ; to Saybrook 42 m. ; to
New London 44 m. ', to Norwich 39 m. ; to W. Killingly 47 m. ;
to Killingly 45 m. ; to Wilbraham, Mass. 33 m. ; to Westfield,
Mass. 28 m. ; to Canaan 43 m. ; to Litchfield 33 m.
Leaving Hartford in the cars we continue in the fertile
valley of the Connecticut, passing through Bloomjield, 6 m.
Windsor a scattered village several miles in length, and cross
the Connecticut by a bridge 1234 ft. in length, pass through
Thompsonvillej and arrive at
; SPRINGFIELD, MASS.
24 m. N. of H. most delightfully situated on the E. side of
the Connecticut r. and one of the most important inland
towns in New England. Pop. 1845, 14,703. Hotels, Ameri-
can House, and the Massasoit House, both on Main st. near
the R. R. depot j Hamden House, Court Square j and the U.
States Hotel, corner of Main and State sts.
Near the river, are rich alluvial meadows, and back of
them the ground rises to a considerable elevation. The
principal and business part of the town is built on Main st.
spacious and over 2 m. in length, containing some elegant
houses. This street runs parallel with the r. and on the E.
of it on rising ground, are some fine building sites. It con-
tains a courthouse, jail, and 6 churches. The U. States have
here one of the most extensive constructing arsenals and ar-
mory in the Union, well worthy of a visit. It is situated on
elevated ground half a m. E. of the village, and consists of a
brick edifice 2 stories high, occupied by lock-filers, stockers,
and finishers; a brick forging shop and other buildings, be-
sides numerous smaller shops and stores ; all arranged in the
r*l-
200
NEW YORK TO BOSTON.
form of a square of 20 acres. The water works are on Mill
r. about a m. S, of the arsenal. It was established in 1795.
On Chickapee r. 4i m. N. of Springfield village; is the
flourishing manufacturing village oi Chickapee, which contains
3 churches, large cotton and other manufactories, and about
2000 inhabitants.
From Springfield a pleasant and romantic trip can be made
to Northampton, one of the most beautiful towns in Massa-
chusetts, containing 5 churches, many elegant houses, and
3,750 inhabitants. Mount Tom in the town, and Mount Hoi-
yoke on the opposite side of the Connecticut, two command-
ing summits, the latter 1,070 ft. above the level of the river,
will well repay the trouble in ascending them. Two houses
for the accommodation of visiters have been erected on the
summit of Mt. Holyoke, from whence a delightful view of
the fertile valley, and the surrounding varied scenery, may
be had. .
Above Northampton on the Connectit ul, are the villages
of Hadley, Greenfield, Brattleboro, and bellows Falls, Vt.
reached by R. R. from Springfield. - f ». .i
Springfield is the centre from whence four great lines of
railroads diverge to the different points of the compass.
Leaving Springfield in the cars we pass through Wilbra-
ham, Palmer, Warren, Brookfield, Charlton, Leicester, and
arrive at
■ WORCESTER,
• .-,. «'>.; - •'' "'■ "v '' ■ ■■
One of the oldest and most important inland towns in the
state. Pop. 1845, 11,514. Hotels, American Temperance
H., United States H., and Worcester House.
The town is situated in a valley, and surrounded by hills
of gentle acclivity. It is well built, the houses being neat
and many of them elegant. Main st. is the principal street
•#
WORCESTER.
301
of
)ra-
ind
Ithe
ice
ills
[eat
reel
crossed by others at right angles. It contains a new and
splendid courthouse, jail, 4 oanks, 13 churches, a manual
labour high school, and a Roman Catholic college. The Hall
of the Antiquarian Society built by its first president Isaiah
Thomas, the author of the "History of Printing," is a neat
building with two wings and a Doric portico; it has a library
of 12,000 vols, many of them very rare relating to American
history. The Lunatic Asylum consists of a main building
with wings and two other end buildings, the whole forming
three sides of a square. It is one of the best institutions of
the kind in the country. <> '
Worcester is the centre of a large inland trade. The Black-
stone canal from Providence, R. I. 45 m. in length, termi-
nates here. The Boston and W. rail r. extends 44 m. to
Boston, and cost 81,500,000. It also extends westward
through Springfield to Albany. The Norwich and W. rail r.
extends to New London, from whence the steamboats are
taken to go to N. York. There are numerous woollen, cot-
ton, and paper manufactories.
From Worcester the r. r. crosses the Blackstone r. passes
through its valley, then through a cut in a ridge of slate rock,
which is 37 ft. deep; then descending at the rate of 30 ft.
to thft mile over a rough country, it enters the valley of Long
Pond, until we reach Cutler's Peak, where we strike the val-
ley of Elizabeth r. and pursue it to Westborotigh ; we then
follow the valley of the Concord r. until we turn the end of
Natic Pond ; we now ascend at the rate of 30 ft. to a m. and
pass the S. end of Morse's Pond on an embankment 47 ft.
high and 700 feet long. We then cross the Worcester turn-
pike, and passing the town of Needham cross Charles r. on a
bridge of a single span 120 ft. long; and follow the valley of
the river passing Newton and arrive at Boston, for a descrip-
tion of which, see page 207.
202
NEW YORK TO BOSTON.
. f
II. VIA LONG ISLAND, NORWICH, AND WORCESTER,
23 M. lUft U. FARE $3.00.
Passengers by this route, the quickest and most pictur-
esque, take the steamboat from the South Furry to Brooklyn
(described on p. 55) and there take the cars of the Loni;
Island R. R. passing through Jamaica 12 m. Hempstead Br.
19 m., Hicksville 27 m., Farmingdale 32 m., St. George's
Manor 68 m., Riverhead 75 m., and arrive at Greenport 96 m.,
where we take the steamboat for a 2 hour's trip of 32 m.
across the sound to •' \t'
7..
- NEW LONDON, CT.,
On the W. side of the Thames r. 3 m. from its mouth. Pop.
5519. In the rear of the city the ground is elevated, afford-
ing some beautiful sites for dwellings. The city is irregu-
larly laid out; many of the houses are neat and elegant.
The harbour is one of the best in the U. States, with a depth
of 30 ft. sufficient for the largest ships of war. It is defended
by the two forts, Trumbull on the W. and Griswold on the
£. side. The city contains a courthouse, jail, customhouse,
3 banks, 2 insurance companies, an almshouse, 9 churches,
and several large manufactories. The principal commerce
is engaged in the whale fishery, which employs over 50 ves-
sels and a capital of a million and a half dollars. The fish-
eries and coasting trade are also extensive. In 1781, the
British under the traitor Arnold burned a large part of the
town, destroying property to the amount of nearly $500,000,
and captured the garrison of Fort Griswold, most of whom
were barbarously massacred. The granite obelisk 125 ft.
high, commemorates the event.
From here we continue in the ears 13 m. to
^;.
NORWICH.
203
NORWICH, CONN.
► v
The city is situated at the head of navigation of Thames r.
It consists of the city, the town, Westville, Yanticville, and
Greenville. The mam part of the city is built on the southern
declivity of a high and rocky hill ; the houses, which are
mostly painted white, are built in tiers, rising one above an-
other, and with the surrounding scenery the city presents a
a most romantic and beautiful view. It contains 4 banks, a
courthouse, and 8 churches. The town is surrounded with
hills, and contains many beautiful sites for residences. West-
ville, N. W. of the town, contains a number of manufacturing
establishments. At the junction of the Yantic with the She-
tucket r. which united form the Thames, the channel is very
narrow between elevated rocks. The bed of the river con-
sists of a solid rock about 12 ft. perpendicular, over which
the water falls forming a wild and romantic cataract, and af-
fording great water-power. A bridge crosses the mouth of
the cove, at the head of which is Yanticville, a flourishing
manufacturing village. Over the falls from a high rock, a
party of the Mohegan Indians are said to have thrown them-
selves to escape from a hostile tribe. On the Shetucket r.
E. of the city is Greenville a flourishing manufacturing vil-
lage, containing fulling, grist, and paper mills, and woollen
and cotton factories. Total population of the city and towns,
7239.
From Norwich after passing through Jewetts city, Plain-
field, Central Village, Daysville, Killingly, Pomfret, Fishers-
ville, Webster, Mass., Oxford, we arrive at Worcester, for de-
scription of which see page 200.
III. VIA STONINGTON AND PROVIDENCE, 214 M. 13i H.
Passengers by this the most direct line take the steam-
204
NEW YORK TO BOSTON.
boat which leaves daily at 5 P. M. from Pier No. 1, North r.
foot of Battery Place, for
Stonington, Conn. 135 m. The principal village is on a
rocky point of land extending half a mile into Long Island
sound, and has a good harbour protected by a breakwater
built by the U. S. government at an expense of $50,000. It
is handsomely laid out, and well built. It has quite a num-
ber of vessels engaged in the whale and seal fisheries and
the coasting trade. There are 2 churches, a bank, and over
1000 inhabitants.
From Stonington we take the R. R. through Rhode Island
47 ra. via Westerly, 5 m.; Richmond 7 m.; Kingston 13m.;
and Greenwich 36 m. to
PROVIDENCE,
The semi-capital of the state, situated at the head of Narra-
ganselt bay, and divided by Providence r. into nearly equal
portions, connected by bridges. On the E. side of the city is
Seekonk r. across which are two bridges, connecting it with
Scekonk in Mass. The city limits contain an area of about 9 m.
The two principal streets are long and irregular, and comprise
the business portion of the city, with the exception of a long
range of large brick warehouses on the E. side. The build-
ings on the other streets are constructed with taste and ele-
gance. On the E. side of the r. the land rises abruptly ; the
three principal streets run parallel with the r. and contain a
number of public buildings, as the governor's official resi-
dence, the buildings of Brown university, the Atheneum,
most of the banks, and many elegant private residences.
Among the public buildings are ; the State House, a large
edifice of brick. The buildings of Brown University occupy
a commanding situation on Prospect st. ; they are four in
number. It was originally founded in 1766 and named after
PROV 1 DE N C E.
205
its benefactor, in 1801. It has a president and 8 professors,
a library of 17,200 vols., an extensive philosophical and
chemical apparatus, and a very complete cabinet of mine-
ralogy and natural history. The Atheneum, founded in 1836
has a handsome Doric edifice of granite, two stories high, a
library of over 7000 vols, and a reading room. The lower
story is occupied by the Franklin and Historical societies.
The Arcade is a fine edifice extending between two streets,
with a Doric portico of six columns on each front, built of
granite at a cost of $130,000. The Friends' hoarding school^
a flourishing institution has a spacious edifice of stone and
brick, and 10 teachers. There are also in the city, a city
hall, jail, and state prison, a hospital, 3 market houses, a
custom house, theatre, 30 churches some of which are fine
specimens of architecture, 26 religious and benevolent socie-
ties, 21 banks with a capital of over $7,000,000, and 6 insu-
rance companies.
The commerce of Providence, on account of its facilities,
is quite extensive. The harbour at the head of the Narra-
gansett bay, 33 m. from the ocean is spacious, and has a
sufficient depth for the largest vessels. The principal trade
is with parts of Europe, the West Indies, and extensively
with the southern states, the extensive cotton manufactories
requiring a large supply of cotton. It is connected with
New York, Albany, Philadelphia, and Baltimore, by several
lines of packets. The Blackstone canal extending from
Worcester to Providence 45 m. brings down goods from the
numerous factories scattered along the route.
Providence was first settled by Roger Williams in 1636,
incorporated as a town in 1649, and chartered as a city in
1831. In 1675 it suffered by the Indian wars; in 1815, the
tide rose 12 ft. higher than usual and destroyed property
worth $1,500,000 ; it has also suflfered considerable by fires.
Pop. 23,171.
S
206
NEW YORK TO BOSTON.
f. ft
Hotels; Columbian House, and Earl House, on Main st. ;
Manufacturers' Hotel, and National House, on Market Square;
and the Washington Hotel, No. 4 Weybosset st.
From Providence to Taunton and New Bedford^ by R. R.
at 8 A. M. and 3i P. M. And also by steamboats.
From Providence a pleasant trip can be made to Newport,
the semi-capital of the state, 30 m. S. by E. from Pr. and 5
m. from the ocean. It has an excellent and safe harbour,
defended by three forts. Its commerce is extensive a num-
ber of vessels being engaged in the fisheries, in the trade
with the E. Indies and part of Europe, with the W. Indies,
and the coasting trade. Its site is beautiful ; the compact
part of the town being built facing the harbor in a S. E, di-
rection, and having a gentle declivity to the shore, it appears
finely from the water. The houses are neatly built, espe-
cially those on the mainstreoi and Washington Square. The
beauty of its position, the salubrity of the climate, and the
numerous inviting objects around it have rendered it a very
fashionable and delightful place of resort for the summer
months. Fish of the finest flavor and in great abundance
are taken in its waters. It contains a state house, jail, 7
banks, 12 churches, a theatre, a public library of 8000 vols.,
several societies, and numerous factories. There are some
fine hotels, and the accommodations are excellent. Pop. 9000.
During the season of navigation a line of steamboats runs
direct from New York to Newport and Providence j and there
connects with the Providence and Boston R. R.
From Providence we take the cars passing through See-
konk 2 m., Dodgeville 6 m., Attleboro 2 m., Mansfield 7 m.,
Foxboro' 3 m., Sharon 4 m.. Canton 4 m., Dedham 6 m.,
Roxbury 6 m., and arrive in Boston 8 m., at the foot of the
Common.
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BOSTON.
207
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BOSTON.
Boston, the capital of Massachusetts, the metropolis of
New England, and the second city in commerce, and fifth in
population in the United States, is partly situated on a penin-
sula with an uneven surface, 3 m. long and 1 m. broad, at
the head of Massachusetts bay ; it is nearly surrounded by
the waters of Boston harbor on the east, and Charles river
on the north and west. The peninsula was originally marked
by three hills, which now afford admirable sites for building,
and give the city a bold and handsome appearance. The
city is in 42° 21' N. Lat. and 5° 54' E. Lon. from Washing-
ton J it is 106 m. S. S. W. from Portland, Me. , 163 m. S. S. W.
Augusta; 63 m. S. S. E. Concord, N. H. ; 158 m. E. by S.
Albany; 40 ra. N. N. E. Providence ; 97 m. E. N. E. Hart-
ford ; 207 m. E. by N. New York ; 440 m. N. E. Washing-
ton. Pop. in 1800, 24,937; 1820, 43,298; 1840, 93,383;
1845, 114,366.
Boston is divided into three parts ; Old Boston on the pe-
ninsula; South Boston; and East Boston. South BostoHy
formerly a part of Dorchester, but united to the city in 1804,
extends about 2 m. along the S. side of the harbor, and is
laid out into regular streets and squares. The surface pre-
sents a picturesque appearance, and commands a splendid
view of Boston, its harbor, and the surrounding country. In
nearly the centre of this tract are the Dorchester Heights,
130 ft. high, on which Washington erected a fortification in
1775, compelling the British to evacuate the harbor. It is
connected with the Neck by the South Boston bridge 1551
ft. long, 40 ft. wide, and completed in 1805 at a cost of
S56,000; and with Boston by the free bridge 500 ft. long and
38 ft. wide, completed in 1828.
208
BOSTON.
East Boston, built on Noddle's Island, is connected with
Boston, by a steam ferry the boats of which run every five
minutes ; with Chelsea on the main land, by a bridge 600 ft.
long, and by a steam ferry.
The Neck or isthmus connecting the peninsula with the
main land, is the principal avenue to the city from the south.
Besides the above mentioned Bridges, Boston is connected
with the surrounding country by other extensive structures.
With Charlestown on the N., by a bridge across Charles river,
1503 ft. long, 42 ft. wide, with a draw 30 ft. wide, and com-
pleted in 1786 at an expense of $50,000 ; and by the Warren
bridge, 1390 ft. long and 44 ft. wide, with a macadamized road.
With Cambridgeport on the W. by the West Boston bridge
2758 ft. long, with a causeway 3344 ft. long and an abutment
of 874 ft., making the whole length 6190 ft. resting on 180
piers, and built in 1793 at a cost of $76,667. With Lech-
mere Pomt in Cambridge on the N. W., by the canal or
Craigie's bridge 2796 ft. long and 40 ft. wide, completed in
1807 J a lateral bridge also extends from this to Prison Point,
Charlestown. With Brookline on the W. by the Western
Avenue a road mill-dam, li m. long from 60 to 100 ft. wide,
and costing with a lateral dam to Roxbury $700,000.
The Harbour one of the best in the U. States, is safe and
commodious, deep enough to admit the largest vessels, ca-
pable of containing 500 ships at once, completely and se-
curely land-locked, easily defended the main entrance being
so narrow as scarcely to admit two ships abreast, and pro-
tected by Forts Independence and Warren. The outer har-
bour is defended by a strong fortress erected by the national
government on George's Island. The harbour contains many
beautiful islands, receives the waters of several large rivers,
and has numerous large towns on its borders. There are
many large wharves, most of them lined with capacious
stores. India wharf is 980 ft. long and 246 to 290 ft. wide ;
^
PLAN OP THE CITY.
200
Central wharf is 1379 ft. long and 150 ft. wide; Long wharf
at the foot of State st. is 1800 ft. long and 200 ft. wide ; Cu-
nard's wharf 1000 ft. long is devoted to the use of the steam-
Boston was founded in 1630; in that year Gov. Winthrop
arrived with a large number of emigrants, and settled in
Charlestown, but afterwards removed to Boston. The origi-
nal appearance of Boston was that of three hills, the western
one of which terminated in three summits, from which cir-
cumstances the English settlers changed the Indian name
of Shawmut to Tremountain, which was again altered to
Boston, in compliment to their minister the Rev. Mr. Cotton,
who had formerly resided at Boston in England. Boston
continued a town, and was so governed until 1822. By the
charter of that year, the city was divided into 12 wards, and
is governed by a mayor, 8 aldermen, and 48 common coun-
cil men ; besides which each ward has its own warden, over-
seer of the poor, and other officers.
The city presents a very beautiful and attractive appear-
ance to the stranger, especially when approached from the
sea. Its streets do not exhibit so great a regularity as some
other cities, having been originally laid on no regular plan ;
but the inconveniences arising from their being so crooked
and narrow have been avoided in the newer portions, and
been remedied in some measure by improvements in the
older parts. The city generally is beautifully and substan-
tially built, and contains many elegant private and public
buildings mostly of brick and granite. The general neatness
of the houses of which there were in 1845, 12,026, and the
great cleanliness of the streets, favourably impress the
stranger. No smoking is allowed in the streets within the
city. The celebrated Common in the S. W. part of the city,
contains an area of about 75 acres, enclosed by an elegant
iron fence about a mile in length. It occupies the declivity
14 s 2
210
BOSTON.
of Beacon Hill, and has a pleasantly diversified surface. It
contains the Mall, a very beautiful promenade ground, adorned
with trees; the State House in the N. part, a Botanic garden
in the W. part ; and Crescent-pond a beautiful sheet of
water.
' - if-'
THE STATE HOUSE,
Fronting on the spacious common, stands on the summit of
Beacon Hill 1 10 ft. above the level of the bay, and occupies
the highest and most commanding situation in the city. It
is 173 ft. long and 61 ft. wide. Above the basement rises
the principal story 30 ft. high, with an attic 60 ft. wide and
20 ft. high, supporting a pediment on which rises a splendid
dome 50 ft. in diameter and 20 ft. high ; the whole termi-
nated by a lantern, crowned with an elegant pine cone. The
centre of the building is 94 ft. in length, and formed cf arches
which project 14 ft., forming a covered walk below, which
supports a colonnade of Corinthian columns. The lower
story is divided into a large hall 50 ft. square and 20 ft. high,
supported by Doric. columns; on the S. side of this story in a
neat temple is a noble statue of Washington by Chantry. In
the rooms above are the Representatives' room 55 ft. square,
w^ith a dome 50 ft. high ; and the Senate chamber 55 ft. long
33 ft. wide and 30 ft. high; the Council chamber is 27 ft.
square and 20 ft. high. The dome is ascended by a spiral
stairway, and from its top 230 ft. above the level of the har-
bour, is presented one of the finest views iri the U. States.
The spectator looks down upon the city with its bridges, its
masses of architecture, and its busy population — the harbour
and bay studded with its hundred isles and crowded with
shipping, and spreading far away to the ocean — and in va-
rious directions the richly cultivated country, studded with
villages and country seats, render the view unsurpassed in
the world. , ,
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211
FANEUIL HALL,
Erected in 1742, and presented to the city by the gpiitlemun
whose name it bears, is 100 ft. long, 80 ft. wide, and 3 stories
high. The lower story is occupied by stores ; in the second
is the great hall 76 ft. square and 28 ft. high, with galleries
on three Hides supported by Doric columns. It is adorned
with superb paintings of patriots, statesmen, and warriors,
amongst which is the great full length poilrait of Washing-
ton by Stuart, and another of Peter Faneuil. The third story
is improved for armories. It is styled the ' Cradle of Liberty'
for in this building were held the first meetings of the peo-
ple, and here were they stimulated by patriotic addresses
from the orators of the Revolution.
FANEUIL HALL MARKET,
The most splendid structure of the kind in the Union, is E.
of meuil Hall, between N. and S. Market sts., on each of
which are splendid warehouses with granite fronts. It was
couipleted in 1827, at a cost of S150,000, is 536 ft. long
50 ft. wide, with a centre building projecting 2i ft. beyond
the wings, and is two stories high. At the E. and W. ends
of the wings are fine porticoes of four Grecian Doric columns,
31 ft. high j the centre building is 77 ft. high surmounted by
a beautiful dome. The lowei story is used as a market for
meat, fish, and vegetables . the upper story of the main
building is a beautiful liall 70 ft. by 60 ft. and named Quincy
Hall after Josiah Quincy former mayor of the city ; the upper
story of each wing is divided into two extensive halls for
exhibition and sales rooms.
I
THE CITY HALL OR OLD STATE HOUSE,
At the head of Stale st. occupies the site of two previous
,■■
1 1
212
BOSTON.
buildings which were destroyed by fire. The present one
was erected 1748, is 110 ft. long, 38 ft. wide, and 3 stories
high, occupied by the city government, reading room, &c.
s THE merchants' EXCHANGE,
Fronting on State and Lindall sts. is a new and splendid
building containing besides other apartments, a well fur-
nished news-room, and the Post office. The room occupied
by the latter is exceedingly well adapted for its purpose j it
commences on the left hand side near the great staircase of
the Exchange, and extends for 100 ft. parallel with Con-
gress St. Office hours 7 A. M. to 8 P. M. Sundays Hi to 124
A.M.
■j'lf-
THE NEW CUSTOM HOUSE
On Court Square and adjoining the City Hall, commenced
in 1833, is constructed of hewn Quincy granite, and is 175 ft.
long, 53 ft. wide, and 57 ft. high. The N. and S. fronts have
each a Grecian Doric portico of four columns, weighing 25
tons each. The interior contains 4 court rooms 50 ft. by
40, and various public offices.
The New Custom House, on India st. between Central and
Long wharves, is a costly edifice of granite in the Grecian
style, has an elegant Doric portico its entire length, with a
fine dome in the centre, and is well adapted for the wants
of so great a commercial metropolis. ...
The other public buildings are, — Amory Hally 223 Wash-
ington St. corner of West ; Boylston marketj Boylston st. ;
City market, between Brattleborough and Elm sts. ; County
Jail, Leverett st. : Washingtonian Hall, Court st. ; Massachu-
setts Arsenal, Pleasant st. ; Mechanics^ Hall, Washington st. ;
and, Medical College, Mason st.
i I
LITERARY INSTITUTIONS.
213
» ,. ■
LITERARY INSTITUTIONS.
The Atheneum on Pearl st. founded in 1807, has a spa-
cious building, containing a library of 35,000 vols., an exten-
sive collection of rare coins and medals, and a reading-room,
well furnished with foreign and American papers and perio-
dicals to which strangers introduced by a subscriber are ad-
mitted. It has also an edifice in the rear of the main build-
ing called Atheneum Hall, 60 by 60 ft. and 3 stories high,
containing a large lecture room, complete scientific apparatus,
a gallery and fine collection of statuary and paintings, and
rooms for various purposes. A new and handsomely orna-
mented building is about to be erected.
The American Academy of Arts and Sciences, founded in
1780, has published several volumes of transactions, and has
a library of 6,000 volumes.
The Massachusetts Historical Society, incorporated in 1794,
have published 26 volumes of its collections, and possess a
library of 6,000 books and manuscripts, and many fine por-
traits. c-n'-^N.' '■ :.- ■ ■:>^--.;.- -;, , .' - .V' ^ v •,.;,- ' v ,
The Society of Natural History instituted in 1830, has a
cabinet and museum of much interest, with a library of 1500
vols.
The New England Museum in Court st. opened in 1818,
occupies two spacious halls in an extensive block of build-
ings, and possesses a rare and valuable collection of over
60,000 curiosities, much increased by the addition of other
collections.
The Public Schools are in the most complete state of any
city in the Union. There are a Latin grammar school, an
English High school, 19 grammar and writing schools, 175
primary and infant schools, 16,288 scholars, and 256 teachers.
The scholars if sufficiently advanced are admitted into the
I
M
214
BOS TON.
Latin school at 9, and the High school at 12 years of age.
The whole expenditures for 25 years until May 1st 1845, in-
cluding first cost of houses amounting to $616,217; was
$2,437,327.
Courses of Lectures on a great variety of subjects are de-
livered in Boston, and scarcely an evening occurs in the
winter season, in which one or more lectures may not be
enjoyed. The Lowell Institute, founded by Mr. John
Lowell, Jr. with a legacy of $245,000, sustains a course of
free lectures by the income derived from its endowment.
The course is delivered by some of the most eminent scien-
tific and literary men, from October to April. It is a noble
institution, and has already done much for the diffusion of
useful knowledge.
Though there are not many Public Libraries, yet there are
some of considerable size ; the principal ones in addition to
those mentioned above, are : The Boston Library founded
m 1794, with 11,000 vols.; the State Library founded in
1826 has 5,757 vols. ; the Bowditch Library founded in 1839
has 2500 vols. ; the Mercantile Library founded in 1820 has
4500 vols. J the Mechanic Apprentices' Library founded in
1820 has 3,000 vols.
Periodical Literature is quite extensive in Boston. There
are 60 newspapers published, of which 13 are daily ; besides
which, there are a number of magazines and reviews, the
most distinguished of which is the North American Review,
a periodical that has greatly contributed to raise the charac-
ter of American Literature.
CHARITABLE AND OTHER INSTITUTIONS.
The Eye and Ear Infirmary incorporated in 1827, has a
beautiful and commodious building in Bowdoin Square, and
is an institution of great merit relieving thousands of cases
annually.
\ ,
CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.
215
The Institution for the Blind went into operation in
1832, and was the first of the kind in the country. The
school was opened by Dr. Howe with six blind scholars, and
proved so successful, that it was soon increased by public
and private donations ; particularly by a ladies' fair netting
$12,000, and the gift of a building in Pearl st. by the Hon.
Thomas H. Perkins worth $35,000, who gave it with the pro-
viso that $50,000 additional should be raised. In 1839 the
estate of Mr. Perkins was exchanged for the spacious and
elegant edifice on Dorchester Heights at South Boston. Its
object is to instruct the young blind in all the common
branches of education, in music, and manual labor. It ha»
over 70 pupils, a complete printing press for raised leiters,
an organ, and 13 piano fortes and other instruments.
The U. S. Marine Hospital, at Chelsea, is a large build-
ing of rough stone, 3 stories high and has 10 acres of land
attached. It has accommodations for 100 patients, and ad-
mits 700 or 800 annually.
The U. S. Naval Hospital, at Chelsea, is located upon a
lot of land of about 60 acres, formerly called the " Dexter
Farm," and is the property of the United States. The build-
ing is of hewn stone, 3 stories high, and will accommodate
about 100 patients.
The McLean Insane Asylum, is a department of the
Massachusetts General Hospital, the branch of which for
medical and surgical diseases is at the western part of the
city on Allen st. The department for the insane was open( i
in 1817, and occupies large buildings located on a beautiful
rise of ground in Charlestown near East Cambridge. The
edifices are spacious and surrounded by handsome grounds.
The Houses of Correction, industry, and Reformation,
are pleasantly situated at South Boston, on an eminence
commanding the healthful breezes of the ocean and sur-
rounded with extensive grounds. They are each built of
216
BOSTON.
rough stone, 220 ft. long, 45 ft. wide, and 3 stories high,
with a wing at each end of the main building. The first is
a sort of penitentiary, the second is for the virtuous poor,
and the latter for reforming juvenile oflenders. The Lunatic
Hospital is of brick 4 stories high, and built by the prisoners
in the House of Correction.
The Massachusetts Hospital occupies a space of ground
on Charles river in the W. part of the city, containing 4 acres
highly ornamented with trees and shrubbery. It has a beau-
tiful edifice of gi^nite 168 ft. long and 54 ft. wide, with a
fine portico of eight Ionic columns, and a dome in tho
centre.
The Medical Institution of Harvard University was founded
in 1782, has 6 professors, 86 students, and a library of over
5000 vols.
The Female Refuge 12 Charter st. ; the Female Orphan
Asylum in Essex st. ; Provident Institution for Savings, Tre-
mont St. ; and others are excellent institutions.
( I
/.
CHURCHES.
There are 75 churches, several of them very stalely and
imposing, though they generally are not handsome. The
following are the best specimens of their architecture —
Trinity Church, Episcopal, in Summer st. corner of Haw-
ley St. is an elegant and substantial structure in the massive
Gothic style, and built of rough granite. The interior is
beautifully painted, and it con' 'ns a very fine organ. The
old church was erected in 1734, and the present one in 1829.
Park ct. Church, Presbyterian, at the corner of Tremont
and Park sts. opposite the Boston Common, is situated on
one of the most commanding and delightful spots in the city.
The church was consecrated in 1810, and has a beautiful
spire 218 ft. high, which adds much to the appearance of the
1 1
TRINITY CHURCH.
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PLACES OF AMUSEMENT.
317
metropolis, and forms one of its most striking featurea when
viewed from a distance.
St. PauVs Church, Ep., on Tremont st. fronting the Com-
mon, is built of fine gray granite in the Ionic style, is 112 ft.
by 72 ft. wide, with a portico of 14 ft. with 6 Ionic columns.
It contains an elegant monument to Gen. Warren, who was
killed at Bunker Hill.
Grace Church, Ep., on Temple st. was consecrated in 1836,
and is a beautiful Gothic structure.
Bowdoin Sqmuc Church, Baptist, opens to the view from
all the streets which radiate to the square. It has a front
with a tower 110 ft. high, and six turrets.
There are in the city 25 Banks, with an aggregate capital
of $18,600,000; of which the Washington Bank in Washing-
ton St., the Suffolk Bank of granite in State st., and a few
others are handsome specimens of architecture. Twenty-
six Insurance Companies with a total capital of $6,080,000.
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT.
Public lectures and musical performances have nearly
supersedtMl the entertainments of the theatre, among the
most respectable class. The National Theatre, corner of
Portland and Traverse sts. is the principal theatre j it was
built in 1831, and first used as a circus. The Boston Mu-
seum, Tremont corner of Bromfield st. has varied perform-
ances in the evening. The Odeon, in Federal st. was for-
merly the Boston Theatre, and is used for lectures, concerts,
and public worship. Tremont Temple formerly the princi-
pal theatre is also changed into a church, havin^r been pur-
chased by the Baptists for $50,000. Graham's Olympic Sa-
loon, has theatrical performances every evening. The Chi-
nese Museum, in the Marlboro' Chap*:'! Washington st., is
T
218
DOS TUN.
extremely iiiloiesling. The Howard Athcneuni ia also a plea-
sant resort.
Boston like many other large commercial places favour-
ably situated for trade, has extreme diliiculty in procuring
good water. It is inadequately supplied by the Boston Aque-
duct corporation, incorporated in 1792, which brings water
from Jamaica Pond in Roxbury, 4 m. from the city. The
pipes are laid for a total length of 8 m. and can supply but
50,000 gallons daily. But the water of several ponds and
the Charles river, within 8 m. could be brought to the city at
a comparatively small cost. The subject is exciting con-
siderable attention; in May 1845, the water act so-called
was rejected by the popular vote by a majority of 309. The
water for the fire companies is obtained by reservoirs, wells,
and plugs in the aqueduct.
The Fire department is one of the best organized of any
city in the United States. Its members are regularly paid.
In 1846 there were 39 engines and hose carriages of all kinds,
8 engineers, 518 members, 100 reservoirs, and 29 fire-plugs.
The commerce and navigation of the city is second only to
New York. It possesses over 250,000 tons of shipping, em-
ployed not only coastwise but with every maritime nation in
the world. The great Cunard line of steamships runs be-
tween this port and Liverpool, via Halifax, performing their
voyages at an average of 12 or 13 days. The number of
persons who arrived at the port from abroad during 1845,
was 10,689. The Middlesex canal connects Boston with
Concord N. H. on the Merrimack, and is the oldest canal in
the U. States. Boston is also the centre of numerous rail-
roads; by one of which, to Albany, it is connected with the
towns on the N. York railroads and canals, and with the lakes
and the west. V,
m
HOTELS.
210
11 O T E L S.
IgS.
in in
be-
Iheir
of
145,
ith
11 in
rail-
the
ikes
Tremont IFon$e, ono of the finest in the Union, has a gra-
nite front 100 ft. long and 3 stories high, with two wings one
84 by 34 ft. the other 110 by 40 ft. each 4 stories high. It
contains 180 rooms, and cost S68,000.
Albion House, Tremoi ' corner of Beacon st.
American House, 42 Hanover st.
lioylston Hotel, 38 School et.
Bromfield House, Bromhold st.
City Tavern, Brattle st.
Ea^rle Hotel, 24 Ann st.
Elm St. Hotel, 9 Elm st.
Exchange Coffee House, Devoi' hiro st.
Franklin House, 44 Merchants' Row.
Globe Hotel, corner of Hanover and Commerce sts.
Hanover House, 50 Hanover st
Marlboro^ Hotel, 229 Washing' on st.
Massachusetts Hotel, Endicott st.
Merchants^ Exchange Hotel, State st.
Merrimack House, Merrimack st.
National Temperance House, Blackstone st.
New England Coffi House, Clinton st.
Winthrop House, co. . Tremont and Boylston sts.
Pavilion, 41 Tremont st.
Pearl St. House. Pearl st.
Shawmut Hous", 32 Hanover st.
South Boston Hotel, Fourth st.
Suffolk House, 392 Washington st.
Washington Coffee House, 158 Washington st.
United States Hotel, corner of Beach and Lincoln sts.
i
J
220
VICINITY OF BOSTON
PLACES IN THE VICINITY OF BOSTON.
The country around Boston is not surpassed by that in the
vicinity of any other city in the Union. From the dome of
the State House, the view of the harbour and shipping, of
Charles river and its beautiful country ornamented with ele-
gant private mansions, of the numerous beautiful towns
many of them situated on hills amid highly cultivated fields,
and of the glorious bay expanding to the E. embosoming
several islands, some of which are fortified, is at once grand
and picturesque and equal to any other view in the world.
DORCHESTER t
4i m. S. of Boston, was settled by the Puritans in 1630,
and soon increased; in 1635 various bodies of emigrants left
to settle different parts of the country. Its surface is very
varied, presenting a continual succession of picturesque and
delightful views of the country, city, and sea. Its hill tops
and valleys are embellished with neat farm houses, tasteful
villas, and farms. It is watered by the beautiful Neponset
M'hich also affords considerable water power. The Dorches-
ter Neck and Heights bordering on Boston harbour were
taken from the town some years since, and now form part
of the city under the name of South Boston. On the Heights
of Dorchester, Gen. Washington's army on the night of
March 4th, 1776, threw up works which commanded the
harbour, and compelled the British to evacuate Boston. The
Cemetery contains numerous ancient tombstones some of
them bearing date as early as 1644. The commerce and
manufactures of Dorchester are quite extensive. Pop. 1845,
R O X D U R Y B R O K L I N E C A M B R I P G E. 221
ROXBURY, '
Is connected with Boston by a neck of land which consti-
tutes a broad avenue and may be regarded as a continuation
of Washington st. It is a delightful place of residence, and
contains many fine country seats, 10 churches, and 2 banks.
Jamaica Pond from whence the city is mostly supplied with
water is about 4 m. S. W. from Boston. Numerous omni-
busses connect Roxbury with the city. Rev. Jno. EUot, the
Indian missionary was settled here, and here also was Gen.
Warren's biith-place and residence. Dr. Warren received
his commission of Major General four days previous to the
battle of Bunker Hill, where he was killed at the commence-
ment of the retreat, after fighting bravely ; he was univer-
sally lamented. Pop. of Roxbury in 1845, 13,929.
BROOKLINE
>
; of
the
The
J of
and
1845,
4 m. S. W. of Boston with which it is connected by the
mill-dam across Charles river, is remarkable for its varied
surface, high state of cultivation, elegant country seats and
gardens, and for its rich and picturesque scenery. Pop.
1845, 1,682.
CAMBRIDGE,
3 m. N. W. of Boston, contains three parts, Old Cambridge
the seat of the University ; Cambridge-Port about half-way
between the University and the brdge to Boston, and E.
Cambridge or Lcchmere^s Point, the seat of the courthouse.
It is one of the oldest towns in New England having been
incorporated by the name of Newton in 1630, but took its
present name in 1638. It is connected with Boston by Cam-
bridge and Canal bridges and by the viaduct of the Lowell
R. R. 3 with Charlestown by Prison Point bridge. It is a
q2
322
VICINITY OF BOSTON.
large, handsome, and pleasant town though not so elevated
as Sonne of the neighboring places. It contains a jail, a state
arsenal, 3 banks, 5 chnrches, and numerous manufactories
of various kinds. Cambridge was ftn important place in the
early history of the country. At the commencement of the
Revolution 20,000 militia were collected here, and in 1775
Gen. Washington arrived here, and took the command of the
American army. The first printing-press was established in
this town in 1639, and the first work printed was " the Free-
man's Oath." Pop. in 1845, 12,490.
Harvard University, is the most richly endowed institu-
tion and the oldest of the kind in the U. States, being founded
in 1638, 20 years after the arrival of the Pilgrims at Ply-
mouth; it occupies a spacious square handsomely shaded.
At the time of its foundation, £400 were granted by the
general court, and increased by a donation of nearly £800 by
Rev. John Harvard, from whom it takes its name. The
buildings 11 in number, are spacious and handsome, of granite
and brick, and contain a chap^\, lecture rooms, dining halls,
and accommodations for the btn ionts; there is also a house
for the president. There are belonging to the institution, a
library of 53,000 vols., excellent philosophical apparatus, a
mineralogical cabinet, an anatomical museum, chemical la-
boratory, and a botanical garden of 8 acres. It has a presi-
dent, 29 professors, and generally about 450 students, and
has had 5750 alumni of whom 1561 have been ministers of
the gospel. It is the most important literary institution in
the U. States, and qualifies students for every branch of lite-
rature and science.
Mount Auburn Cemetery, about a mile W. of the Uni-
versity, for beauty and extent may be considered the Pere
la Chaise of this country. The grounds 100 acres in extent
are most delightfully situated, comprising every variety of
hill and dale, embellished with ornamental trees and shrub-
ai T. A U B U R N C 11 A U L E S T O W N.
223
presi-
and
rs of
Urii-
Pere
jxtent
;ly of
ihiub-
bery, with numerous paths and avenues. The first ' iter-
ment was made in 1831, since when it has been gradually
filling up; and now contains numerous monuments of va-
rious devices and most exquisite workmanship. From some
of the highest portions a most superb view of natural and
artificial scenery presents itself; below flows the winding
Charles r. — in the distance, the city with its proud eminences,
its glittering spires, its lofty towers, its graceful mansions,
its curling smoke, its crowded haunts of business and plea-
sure — and in other diractions, the walls of the venerable
University — the cultivated farm, the neat cottage, the village
chu'ch, the sparkling lake, the rich valley, and the distant
hills, — are before us through opening vistas. No traveller
should fail to visit this sacred yet lovely spot.
CHARLESTOWN,
One mile N. of Boston with which it is connected by Warren
and Charles river bridges, stands on a peninsula of a curious
shape, between Charles and Mystic rivers. It is also con-
nected with Cambridge by a bridge from Prison point, and
with Chelsea and Maiden by two bridges across Mystic r.
The town extends N. W. for 9 m. with a breadth varying
from a quarter of a mile to a mile. The streets aro not regu-
larly laid out. but are wide and ornamented with trees, cen-
treing to a public square, around which a number of the
public buildings are situated. The town contains many ele-
gant private residences, a State prison, an almshouse, a
lown-house, 3 banks, and 9 churches. Pop. 1845, 12,500.
The U. Slates Navy Yard on the N. side of the Charles r.,
has 60 acres of ground with a high and substantial wall, en-
closing warehouses, an arsenal, a powder magazine, a rope-
walk, dwellings for the officers, and two immense frame
ship-houses. The Dry dock, of hewn granite, is 341 ft. long,
224
VICINITY OF BOSTON.
80 ft. wide, 30 ft. deep, and cost $670,000. Tha McLean
Insane Asylum on elevated ground has commodious build-
ings, and 16 acres of ^Touud. 3'Ac State Prison consists of
4 massive buildings of granite, in the W. part of the town.
BREEr> s and Bunker Hill in the N. E. part of the village
are fam d m Revolutionary story, and are annually visited
by thousands of persons. At the time of the battle the Bri-
tish occupied Boston, and it being supposed by the provincial
congress that Gen. Gage was about to send his troops into
the country, it was resolved to defend Dorchester Neck. A
detachment of 1000 men under Col. Prescott was accordingly
ordered to throw up entrenchments on Bunker Hill, on the
night of June 16th, 1775; this they did with so much expe-
dition and secrecy, that by dawn of day they had thrown up
a redoubt of 8 rods square. But by some mistake they for-
tified Breed's Hill instead of Bunker Hill, although by popu-
lar usage the former is now called by the name of the latter.
The British on discovering the works of the Americans,
commenced a cannonade from the shipping in the river, but
which did not prevent the provincials from forming a breast
work from the redoubt to the bottom of the hill, which was
completed by mid-day. About 1 o'clock the British to the
amount of 3000 men, with a portion of artillery, commanded
by Generals Howe and Pigot, landed in Charlestown, and
having formed in two lines and received reinforcements ad-
vanced to the attack. The Americans who also had received
reinforcements under Gen. Warren and Gen. Pomeroy, coolly
awaited their approach and reserved their lire until, as Gen.
Warren told them, * they could see the whites of their eyes.'
The men being mostly undisciplined, but excellent marks-
men, fired with such deadly aim and execution, as to throw
the enemy's ranks into confusion, and to cause a precipitate
retreat. By the efforts of the officers they were formed and
led to the attack a second time ; when within 5 or 6 rods of
BUNKER HILL MONUMENT.
225
es.'
•ks-
:o\v
ate
ind
of
the entrenchments, the Americans a second time opened
their destructive fire, and again created utter confusion.
Gen. Clinton now arriving with reinforcements, the men
were rallied and again led on, while some cannon were brought
to bear upon the entrenchments so as to rake them from end
to end. The works were now attacked with fixed bayonets,
and as the Americans were not supplied with them and their
ammunition began to fai^, they were obliged to retreat over
Charlestown Neck, exposed to ihe fire of the Glasgow man-
of-war and the floating batteries.
In this the first regular battle of the Revolutionary struggle
the Americans covered themselves with glory. After a
tedious march and working at the entrenchments the whole
night and morning of the 17th, with undisciplined troops and
poorly equipped, with a deficiency of artillery and ammunition,
for the Americans to have made such a noble stand against
veteran troops superior in number and every othur particular,
aflbrds an unparallelled instance of bravery and indomitable
courage. The victory was truly a dear bought one. The
British loss was 1054 killed and wounded, of whom there
were 19 officers killed and 70 wounded. Of the Americans,
145 were killed, and 304 wounded and missing, making in
in the whole 449. Early in the engagement Charlestown
was fired by the British.
Bunker Hill Monument erected on the site of the battle,
is a splendid obelisk of hewn Quincy granite, completed July
2 h\j 1842. The corner stone was first laid by the illustrious
Marquis La Fayette on the 50th anniversary of the battle,
June 17th, 1825, in the presence of an immense concourse
of citizCiis, when an address was delivered by the Hon. Dan-
iel Webster. The fouhdation having been insufficient it was
relaid in 1827. The obelisk is 30 ft. square at the base, and
16 ft. 44 in. at the top, having a diminution of 14 ft. 7i in.
above its base
15
The height from the base to the commence-
220
VICINITY OF BOSTON.
mnnt of the apcjx is 208 ft., to the top of the apex 221 ft. The
interior if circular, having a diam'^tsT ot 10 fi. i in. at the
base, and ?> ft. 4 in. at the top, and U aao uded by 204 yieps.
Tho top is an elliptical chamber, 17 it. high^ 11 ^'. hi ca^ .ne-
tor, with 4 windows and presents the /nost magnifies jii ^iew
ill the U. States. The whole cost $j -9,800, was defrayed
by subscription J by a la 'ies' fair at Boston netting S32.000,
find other means. The completion of the monun ini july
?3id, 1842, was bailed b} firing ol" cannon; and celebrated
in a splendid manner on the ann veisary oi {!. * battle June
I7lh, 1343, when a discourse was delivettd by Hon. Daniel
Webster in presence of the President of the U. States, the
h«id.^ of Dtiparlment, and an immense concourse of citizens.
Tao monument is surrounded bv a neat iron railing, and
forms a conspicuous object when approaching Boston.
h'li
CHELSEA,
About 3 m. N. E.of Boston with which it is connected by a
ferry at the foot of Hanover st., and connected with Charles-
town by a bridge, is situated at the mouth of the Mystic r.
Its surface is elevated at several points affording delightful
building sites. It is one of the most ancient towns in the
vicinity of Boston, having been incorporated in 1738. It
contains the U. S. Marine Hospital with a fine edifice, com-
manding an excellent view of Boston and its harbour;
2 churches, of which St. Luke's, Epis. is the most unique
and pretty of the village churches, and numeroir? manufac-
tories. Chelsea Beach is a delightful resort during the sum-
mer season. Pop. 1846, 4,127.
\ / QUINCY,
10 m. S. of Boston on Quincy bay, is si' uated on an elevated
plain and is remarkable for its "leatr! .si and the beauty of
the f* "rounding country, and i: ^ v st {uarriea of excellent
Q U 1 N C Y F ORIS AROUND BOSTON.
227
^ated
y of
silent
granite. About 3 m. back from the bay, the land is elevated,
in some parts 600 ft. high, and contains an inexhaustible sup-
ply of granite, which is extensively quarried and sent to
every part of the Union, and even to Mexico ; some of the
noblest structures in the U. States are built of this stone,
which is of dark blue colour. The town is surrounded by
highly cultivated farms, part of which is salt meadow land.
Quincy pt. and Germantown pt. are admirably located for
ship building and the fisheries, and have fine harbours, bold
shores and a beautiful country. Quincy was the native place
of Jno. Hancock, Col. Jno. Quincy, the two Presidents of the
U. States Jno. Adams and Jno. Quincy Adams, and other
distinguished men. It has 4 churches, one of which con-
tains a beautiful marble monument of Hon. Jno. Adams and
his wife, erected by their son Hon. Jno. Q. Adams. Pop.
3486.
THE FORTS AROUND BOSTON,
Erected during the* Revolution, are some of them still in good
preservation, while others are nearly effaced 3 they possess
much interest. At BreeiVs Hill, but little remains ; on Bunker
Hill the remains of the British fort are visible ; some remains
of the redoubt at Lechmere Point can be distinctly traced ; at
Winter Hill Fort part of the rampart still remains perfect j
Prospect Hill has two eminences both of which were fortified,
and connected by a rampart and fosse, much of which still
remains ; the Cambridge Lines on Bunker's Hill consisted of
six regular forts, connected by a strong entrenchment, two of
which are perfect ', a semi-circular battery with three embra-
sures on the N. shore of Charles r. near its entrance hito the
bay, is quite perfect; there are also remains of numerous
forts at Brookline, Roxbury, Dorchester Heights, Nook Hill,
and other places in the vicinity of Boston, which are more or
less in a state of preservation.
»'*-
228
ROUTES FROM BOSTON.
ROUTES FROM BOSTON.
TO NEW YORK.
I. By R. R. daily at 4i P. M. in winter and 5 P. M. in
summer from depot at the foot of the Common for Providence
42 m. Or passengers can start in the accommodation train
at 8 A. M. and have time to visit Providence before the af-
ternoon line comes up. Usual time, H h. From Providence
to Stonington, by R. R. 47 m. time, 24 h. From Stonington
to New York by steamboat 125 m. time, 9i h. See descrip-
tion on p. 203, and reverse the route.
II. By R r.... dnily at 4 P. M. and at 8 A. M., in summer
at 5 P. M., IV-mi cor. f Beach and Lincoln sts. /or Worcester
44 m. From W . to .N Drvvich by R. R. 66 m. From Allyn's
Point to New\ork by steamboat 128 m. Whole time 13i h.
See p. 202, and reverse the route.
ill. By the same route daily at 8 A. M. to Allyvi's Pt.
110 m. and take the steamboat across L. Island Sound to
Greenport 32 ra. Thence by cars over Long Id. R. R. to
Brooklyn, 96 m. Total 238 m., lOi h. See p. 202, and re-
verse the route.
IV. By R. R. daily at 10 A. M. ^x)'l 4 P. M. to Worcester
44 m. To Springfield 54 m. To Hartford 26 m. To New
Haven 36 m. time, 8i h. From New Haven by steamboat
to New York, 78 m. time, 5 h. See p. 193 and reverse the
route. '
V. By steamboat daily at 4i P. M. from depot foot of the
Common, via Providence and Newport R. I.
TO PROVIDENCE. 42 M.
By R. R. as per No. 1, at 4i and 5 P. M. - ' \
" accommod. trains at 8 A. M. and 3i P. M.
For descriptions of Providence a'-d Newport, see p. 204.
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ROUT £8 FIIOM DOS TUN.
229
TO DEDHAM. 8 M. '
By R. R. from same depot, at 9 A. M., 3, 5i and 10 P. M.
TO STOUGHTON. 18 M. '
By R. R. from ftame depot, at 12 M. and 4 P. M. to Gituun
14 m., where the road branches off 4 m. to Stoughtun.
v***""' •
t:V»A!V'^
, y.
X
m
TO PORTLAND, ME. 105 M.
I. By R. R. daily, Sund. ex. at 71 A. M. and 2i P. M. from
the depot in Commercial st. to Portsmouth, N. H. 64 m.
Thenco by R. R. to Portland, 51 m. Whole time 54 h. Fare
$3. See p. 237.
II. By R. R. daily, Sund. ex. at 7i A. M. and 2i P. M. fi m
the depot in Canal st. to South Berwick 73 m. where it strikes
the R. R. above, 12 m. beyond Portsmouth. From So. Ber-
wick to Portland, 36 m. Time 5i h. Fare $3. See p. 236.
III. By steamboat on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at
4 P. M. from Central wharf, in summer.
TO PORTSMOUTH. 54 M.
By R. R. as per No. 1. and also at 4i P. M. Fare 1.60.
See p. 235.
..,: .-,-.;..• ■ TO SALEM. 14 M. :,'''"' ''**^**^'!
By R. R. as above and several times daily. Fare 40 ctn.
See p. 233. From Salem a branch of 4 m. extends to Mar-
blehead. « .»• -^
TO HAVERHILL, N. H. 32 M.
By R. R. as per No. 2. and 4 times daily. Fare 85 cts.
Seep. 237. ., ,^, ^^ , .., ^
u
-. i
BSBS:
MJ\ jPf!
■'.'\4'vl,?:-
280
ROUTES FROM BOSTON.
TO LOWELL, MASS. 26 M.
By R. R. daily at 7, 9 and 11 A. M. and 2i & 5i P. M.
from depot in Lowell st. Fare 65 cts. time 1 h. See p. 241.
At Woburn a branch extends to Woburn Centre ; fare 25
cts. And on arrival of the trains from the N. at Lowell the
R. R. connects with the junction in Wilmington.
TO NASHUA, 41 M. AND CONCORD. 76 M.
By same R. R. as to Lowell at 7 & 1 1 A. M., and 5 P. M.
Fare 1.25 and 2.00. Time 3i h. See p. 243.
TO FITCHBURG. 50 M.
By R. R. daily at 7i & Hi A. M. and 4i P. M. j in sum-
mer at 7 A. M. li and 5 P. M. from the depot in Charles-
town. Fare 1.25, time 2i h. See p. 246.
By the 1st train stages connecc with all the principal towns
in W. Massachusetts, New Hampshire and Vermont. By
this route passengers leaving Boston at 7 A. M. arrive at
Montpelier next day at 12 M. and at Burlington in the after-
noon, via Charlestown, N. H. and Woodstock, Vt.
TO NEW BEDFORD, 66 M. AND FALL RIVER, MASS. 56 M.
By R. R. daily at 8 A. M. and 3^ P. M. and in summer at
74 A. M. and 4i P. M. from the depot at the foot of the
Common. Fare to Fall River $1.45; to New Bedford $1.50.
Time 3 h. See p. 248.
TO PLYMOUTH. 37 M.
By R. R. daily at 8 A. M. and 3i P. M. and in summer at
7|A.M.and5P.M.''rom South Boston. Fare$l. Seep. 249.
TO ALBANY. 200 M.
By R. R. daily at 10 A. M. & 4 P. M. as per Route to New
York No. 4, as far as Springfield 98 m. Fare $2.75. From
•^^■.
ROUTES FROM BOSTON.
231
•Springfield by care to Albany 102 m. Whole lime lib.
Fare $5 — 2d class cars $3. The line at 4 P. M. stops over
night at Springfield, and arrives at Albany at 10 A. M. next
day. See p. 246.
TO MONTREAL. 329 M. ■
By R. R. to Fitchburg 50 m. ; by stage via Keene, 86 m.,
Bellow's Falls 102 m.,- Rutland 156 m., Middlebury 191 iu.,
to Burlington 230 m. ; thence by steamboat to Plattsburg
255 m. and St. John's, Canada, 305 m. ; thence by R. R. to
La Prairie 320 m., and by steamboat to Montreal 329 m.
This route oeyond Fitchburg will shortly be by R. R. as
the road is now being extended to Burlington.
♦ f
TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS, CONWAY, &C.
By Boston and Maine R. R. to Dover 66 m. fare $1.75.
See p. 236. to 238. Thence by stage to Conway, the White
Mountains; Bethlehem and Littleton, N. H. 184 m.
56 M.
TO GREENFIELD, MASS.
134 M.
By R. R. daily as per route to N. York No. 4, as far as
Springfield 98 m. and there take the cars to Greenfield 36
m. via Northampton 19 m. Whately, and Deerfield.
By this route passengers can proceed to Brattleboro', Han-
over, Haverhill, &c.
TO EASTPORT, ME., AND ST. JOHN'S, N. B.
By steamboat from Boston every Tuesday.
400 M.
o New
From
TO BATH,
GARDINER, AND HALLOWELL, ME.
By steamboat from T wharf every Tuesday and Friday at
7 P. M. and for Bangor and intermediate places, on same
days at 5 P. M. And returning, on Monday and Thursday.
This is also a pleasant route to Quebec, by stage from the
above places. 1 .. ,-, r^, ,. .; , rji
1 i
1 [
i
i
.•■.
4-
233 BOSTON TO PORTLAND.
. TO PORTLAND, ME. 105 M. V
I. Passengers by the Eastern R. R. leave the depot in
Commercial st. at 7i A. M. and 2i P. M. This is an excel-
lent line, performing the whole distance in 5i hours. Fare $3.
We first stop at
Lynn, 9 m. a scattered village, cotebrated for its manu-
facturing of ladies' shoes. Pop. 9367. It contains 8 churches,
2 banks, a savings bank, &c. It is beautifully situated on a
plain. ' ' > - » •
From Lynn passengers can take the stages to Nahant, on
the S. side of Lynn. This on account of its favorable posi-
tion for catching the ocean breeze has become a favorite*
watering place. The bathing and fishing are unsurpassed.
It is situated on a peninsula divided into two parts, the inner
portion containing 42 acres, the outer being 2 m. in length
with a varied surface ; both are connected by a beach half a
mile long. The Nahant Hotel is a splendid house, contain-
ing nearly 100 rooms; and there are several other hotels and
boarding houses, with many private cottages. Steamboats
in summer ply twice a day between this place and Boston.
SALEM, ■■
5 m. from Lynn, and 14 from Boston, is next to Plymouth
the oldest place in Mass. It is chiefly situated on a point of
land between two inlets of the sea called North and South
rivers. It is connected with the other parts of the town by
two handsome bridges. The city is well but not regularly
laid out, and has a large square, containing about 8i acres,
ornamented with trees and walks. The houses are well
built, and the streets well paved and lighted. Salem was
formerly the second place in New England in wealth, com-
merce and population ; and is even now, in proportion to its
SALE M N EWBURYPORT.
233
i
size one of the most wealthy places in the Union. The har-
bour is principally formed by South r. along which are its
wharves, where vessels drawing not more than 12 ft. of
water can unload. The commerce which is extensive, is
engaged in the £. India trade, in the whaling business, in
the foreign trade generally, and in the coasting trade and
fisheries. The harbour is defended by two forts, situated on
the islands, which are numerous. On Baker's Island is the
light-house.
Salem contains a courthouse, jail, an almshouse, a hospital,
custom house, a lyceum, 8 banks, 2 publi'' libraries, an athe-
neum, a mechanics' library, 19 churches, and many charit-
able and literary societies. The tourist will find the Museum
-of curiosities brought home by persons engaged in the £. India
trade, a very interesting collection. Strangers introduced
by a member have free access to the museum which em-
braces nearly 5000 articles. The Harmony Grove Cemetery)
W. of the city is a beautiful spot.
It is, though low, a pleasant, healthy and well built place,
distinguished for its enterprise, and contains 15,082 inhabit-
ants, principally engaged in manufactures, commerce, and
navigation. It was settle*' in 1628, and chartered as a city
in 1836. From Gallows Hill a fine view of the city can be
obtained. It was so called from having been the place on
which the persons accused of witchcraft were executed.
Salem and the public events that happened here occupy a
prominent point in American history.
A branch railroad extends to Mari>lehead, 4 oi.
From Salem we continue through Beverly 2 m., Wenham
and Hamilton, 4 m., Ipswich 5 m., Rowley 4 m.
Newburypc iT 5 m. beautifully situated on theS. bank of
Merrimac r. about 3 m. from the Atlantic. It is very regu-
larly laid out, with streets at right angles. The houses neat,
and many of Ihem elegant are surrounded wi*h gardens
u2
♦
234
BOSTON TO PORTLAND.
adding much to its rural aspect. The harbour is safe and
spacious, but difficult of entrance on account of a sandbar
at the mouth of the Merrimac ; the U. States have erected a
breakwater at the mouth of the r. costing 830,000. lis com-
merce is large ; its numerous vessels are chiefly employed in
the coasting trade and cod and mackerel fisheries. The
town is connected with Salisbury by a bridge nearly half a
mile loig; and with Plumb island by a turnpike 3 m. long
and a bridge 500 ft. in length. It contains a courthouse, jail,
a beautiful Doric custom-house of granite, 10 churches, an
almshouse, a lyceum^and 3 banks. Several extensive steam
cotton factories have been erected within a few years past,
and manufacture finer goods now than were formerly manu-
factured by water power, it is a remarkable fact that this
town is the smallest in point of territory, in the United
States, having only about 647 acres. Pop. 7161.
Salisbury 2 m. farther, Seabrook 4 m., Hampton 4 m.,
Greenland 5 m. and i v -
PORTSMOUTH,
5 m., 54 m. from Boston, the largest town, and only seaport
in the state. It is pleasantly situated on the S. side of Pis-
cataqua r. 3 m. from the ocean. The streets are irregular,
but the houses are well built. The harbour is excellent and
unobstructed; defended by four forts, and protected from
storms by a number of islands. It has a depth of 65 ft.,
with a tide which rises 10 ft. and sweeps through the har-
bour with a powerful current, keeping it free from ice, Ports-
mouth has much wealth and considerable trade, mostly in
the freighting business, cod and mackerel fisheries, coasting
trade, W. India trade, and whale fishery. It contains 7
banks, a!> atheneum, an almshouse, and 7 churches. From
the Episcopal church cupola, a beautiful view of the town,
harbour and country maybe had.
PORTSMOUT H — S A C O.
235
m.
in
isting
lins 7
iFrom
Itovvn,
Portsmouth is connected with Kiltery, in Maine, by two
bridges, one 480 ft. in length, on 20 piers ; the other 1750 It.
long on 70 piers from 61 to 72 ft. high. It is also connected
with Great Island by a bridge. On Navy Island, on the E.
side of the r. and within the bounds of Kittery, is the Navy
yard belonging to the U. States, containing 3 ship-houses,
and every convenience for building vessels of the largest
class. Portsmouth was first settled in 1623, and incorporated
in 1633. Pop. 7887. Hotels; Rockingham House, State st. ;
Mansion House, and Franklin House, on Congress st. Many
persons pass the summer in this delightful town.
From Portsmouth stages run to Concord, 15 m.
Leaving Portsmouth the cars cross the Piscataqua by the
bridge to Kittery, Me., from thence the route extends 11 ra.
to South Berwick, where the Boston and Maine R. R. inter-
sects the Portland, Saco, and Portsmouth line. Here the
cars of the former line are attached and we proceed, passing
North Berwick 6 m. Wells 5 m. Kennebunk depot. 5 m., and
Saco 10 m., 38 ni. from Portsmouth. It is situated on the
N. E. side of Saco r. 6 m. from the ocean. The river hero
has a fall of 42 ft. in a short distance creating a great water
power and forming a beautiful scene. It contains 5 churches,
a bank, numerous mills, many handsome dwellings, and has
considerable trade. Pop. 3358.
From Saco, we have a pleasant 13 m. ride through a level
country, and after crossing the lonp' bridge over the arm of
the sea we arrive at the depot, where carriages are in wait-
ing to take you to your hotel, The principal Hotels are : the
United States Hotel, Congress and Federal sts. ; the Elm
Tavern, Federal st. ; the American House, Congress St. j
Casco Temperance House, IVIiddle st. See p. 237.
II. Passengers to Portland via the Boston and Maine R. R.
leave Boston from the depot Haymarket Square at 74 A. M.
!
I
I
236
BOSTON TO PORTLAND.
or 2i P. M. Though the route is a few miles longer, it is
usually run over in the same time as in No. 1, and through
an interesting and thickly settled section of the country. .
Passing tjirough Soraerville 1 m. Walden 6, Reading 12,
Wilmington 15, Ballard ville 21 we reach
Andover 23 m. on the S. side of the Merrimac, and
watered by the Shawsheen r., Great Pond and Haggett's
Pond. It is a beautiful town on high ground and command-
ing a variety of beautiful landscape. The water power of
the place is extensively used for ii'anufajtur ^p, and the fer-
tile country around, is well cultivated. It contains the Theo-
logical Seminary one of the principal theological schools of
the Union, Phillips academy, and other literary and theo-
logical institutions. It was first settled in 1643, and incor-
porated 1646 ', it now contains a bank, an insurance co., 5
churches, and a pop. of 5207.
Bradford 31 m. is a pleasant town with beautiful scenery,
and excellent fishing in its waters. It has several good schools
and seminaries. It is connected by two bridges acros.s the
Merrimac with
Haverhill, an ancient, flourishing manufacturing town,
handsomely built and delightfully located on the N. side of
the Merrimac at the head of navigation. Pop. 4336.
Atkinson 36, Plaistow 37, Newtown 40, Exeter 49, Nev/-
market 56, Durham 61, Madbury 63, Dover 66, and Somers-
worth 69 from whence a branch extends to Great Falls Vil-
lage 3 m., are places on the route before reaching So. Ber-
wick 71m. where it intersects with the Portland, Saco, and
Portsmouth R. R. See previous page for remainder of the
route. ^
PORTLAND
l
City, 51m. from Portsmouth, 105 from Boston, and 545 from
Washington. Pop. 15,218. Until 1832, it was the capital
P O n T L A N 0.
237
and
Nev/-
mers-
Vil-
Ber-
and
the
of ihe state, and is now the largest town, in point of vveahh,
comnnerce, and population. It is beautifully situated on a
peninsula in Casco bay, which rises at its E. and VV. ends,
and being regularly laid out, and handsomely built it presents
a fine view when approached from the sta, its public build-
ings forming prominent features.
The spacious harbour is safe, deep, easy of access, near
the ocean, and is one of the best in the U. States. It is com-
pletely land-locked by numerous islands, on two of which
are forts Preble and Scammel. forming a strong defence. On
Portland head is a light-house about 80 ft. high erected in
1790. The city contains, a large city hall, courthouse, jail,
a custom house, 6 banks, an atheneum with a library of 5000
vols., 16 churches, and a theatre. On Mount Joy in the N.
E. part of the town, is an observatory 82 ft. high, and 226 ft.
above the ocean, from whence by looking through the excel-
lent glass in use here Mount Washington, the highest peak
of the White Mountains in N. Hampshire may be distinctly
seen. The view of the harbour studded with its 365 islands,
the city and its shipping, the forts, the surrounding country,
and the blue Atlantic stretching away in the distance, is ex-
tremely beautiful. The commerce and trade of the city is
quite extensive. By the Cumberland and Oxford canal, com-
pleted in 1829, communication for 50 m. is opened with the
interior. By a road which passes through a notch in the
White Mountains much of the trade of the N. parts of New
Hampshire and Vermont is brought to the city. The coast-
ing trade with Boston, New York, &c. is very great. Its
foreign trade is principally with the W. Indies, and Europe.
The chief exports are fish, lumber, beef, and country produce.
Portland was settled in 1632, and early suffered by Indian
attacks. In 1775, it was bombarded by the British fleet, and
property to the amount of ,'i?240.000 was destroyed. In 1786
it was incorporated and the name changed from Falmouth to
Portland: in 1S32 it was chartered as a city.
238
ROUTES FROM PORTLAND.
ROUTES FROM PORTLAND.
During the season of navigation steannboatB ply between
Boston and Portland ; through Massachusetts bay, passing
Cape Ann; and running down the Atlantic coast to Cape Eli-
zabeth and Casco bay, and in connection with the cara,'to
Haltowell, B( mor, and the intermediate places.
Stages run three times a week to the White Mountains^
connecting with lines of travel to Concord, and Burlingtoiij
Vt., passing near the delightful lakes of New Hampshire,
which afford excellent sport for the fowler and angler.
Stages connecting with the cars from Boston, run twice
daily to ^wgus^a via Brunswick; thence daily to Bangor, Ells-
worth, Houlton, and Eastport.
Stages run tri-weekly to Augusta^ 60 m., via Lisbon and
Winthrop; and on the opposite days through to Eastport, via
Gray, Lewiston, and Winthrop intersecting with the Far-
mington and Buckjield stages.
Stages run daily to Eastport 230 m. via Falmouth 7 m.,
North Yarmouth 12 m., Freeport IS m., Brunswif^k 27 m.,
Bath 34 m., Wiscasset 49 m., Waldoboro' 67 m., Warren 76
m., Thomaston 80 m., Camden 91 m., Belfast 109 m.. Pros-
pect 118 ra., Orland 128 m., Ellsworth 142 m., Franklin 154
m., Cherryfield 174 m., Harrington 178 m., Columbia 186 m.,
Machias 201 m., Whiting 2/5 ni , and Eastport 230 m. situa-
ted on an island in Passamaquoddy bay, into which empties
the St. Croix r. forming the E. boundary of the U. Slates.
Stages run tri-weekly in different directions ; to Paris 40
m.j to Waierfxyrd 40 m.; and to Dover, N. H via Alfred, 56
m., passing near the lakes of Maine, which afford excellent
trout fishing.
In connection with the semi-daily line to Augusta, stages
twice a week leave Augusta for Quebec 218 m. distant, over
the Kennebec road via Norndgeicock.
^•^
tllent
[ages
lover
AUGUST A B A N U O R.
289
AUGUSTA, ME. r
oC tn. from Portland, and capital of the state. Pop. 53M.
This beautiful and flourishing town is situated on both sides
the Kennebec r. at the head of sloop navigation, and 43 m.
from the Atlanti/*. The town rises by an easy ascent on
both sides the r., .a well laid out, neatly built, and contains
many handsome dweUings. Both parts of the town are con-
nected by a handsome bridge of two arches. The public
buildings are ; a State-house of white granite with a Doric
portico, a handsome dome and cupola, and surrounded by or-
namented grounds. The U. Slates have an arsenal on the E.
side of the r. The Lunatic asylum is a fine granite building
with wingR. There are also a courthouse, jail, a high-school,
and 7 churches. A splendid dam was erected a few years
since over the Kennebec at a cost of S300,000.
Hotels; Auguda House, and Mansion House.
From Augusta 'taget run to Thomaston 44 m.; to Belfast
46 m. ; to Qu£bec via Norridgewock, 234 a.; to Phillips^ 57
m. ; and to Fryeburs^ 72 m.
BANGOR, ME.
Occupying a pleasant and commanding situation on the W.
side of Penobscot r at the head of navigation. The city is
divided into two parts by Kenduskeag stream, but connected
by 3 bridges. It -s also connected with the E. side of the
Penobscot by a b-'.'ge at Orrington. The harbour is spa-
cious, with a depth sufficient for large vessels. Lumbor, for
which it i*-- the greatest depot on the continent, is the prin-
cipal part of the trad?!, and t mounts to nearly a million and
a half dollars annually. Ship building is also carried on ex-
tensively. The rise of Bangor has been rapid, and it already
ifc the great emporium of the E. portion of Maine. The
240 BOSTON TO LOWELL AND CONCORL,
pub >; and private buildings of the citv are not only neat, but
many of them elegant. It contains a > ihouse, jail, a bank,
7 churches, and a Theological Seminary under the direction
of the Congregationalists, which has 3 professors and a li-
brary of 7000 vols. It is connected with Boston by a line of
Bteamboats during about 8 months of the year. Hotels;
Bangor House; Franklin House; and tlje Penobscot Ex-
change. Pop. 8627.
Below Bangor on the Penobscot, are Frankfort, Bucksport)
Belfast, and Thomaston, at all of which the steamboats stop.
From Bangor stages run lo Castine 36 m. ; to Ellsworth 27
m. ; to Skowhegan 52 m. ; lo Moosehead Lake 72 m. ; and to
Brownsville 49 m. - .
MOOSEHEAD LAKE
J
Is a picturesque and irregular body of water about 40 or 60
m. in length with a breadth of 12 m. in its widest part, sur-
rounded with fertile shores mostly covered Wiih timber. It
rcci.; .es numerous tributaries, and contains a number of fer-
tile iii ands of which Sugar island the largest, contains 5,440
acj en, and Deer island 2000 acres. The waters are deep and
affoid excellent sport for the angler, the trout being of an
extraordinary size. A steamboat plies on the lake, princi-
pally for transporting the timber to Kennebec outlet. The
lake may be divided into two bays. A little above the centre
of it, where it is but a mile across, is Mount Keneo on the
W. side, an elevation of 5 or 600 ft. projecting over the
water ; from this height a picturesque view of the lake, its
islanr^i, and a boundless wilderness, is presented.
TO LOWELL,
NASHUA, AND CONCORD.
Passengers take the cars of the Boston and Lowell R. R.
which leave the depot in Lowell st. daily, Sundays excepted,
■^,t^.^.^-^ -....„. ^^..^fc
or 50
rt, sur-
ler. It
of fer-
5,440
epand
of an
rinci-
The
entre
n the
r the
ce, its
IR. R>
Ipted,
'Se-
LOWELL.
241
at 7, 9, and 1 1 A. M., and 2i and 5^ P. M. Time 1 h. Fare
65 cts.
The cars over this beautiful piece of road stop at Medford
5 m., South Woburn 74 m. from whence a branch extends
to Woburn Centra 2 m., Woburn 10 m., Wilmington, 15 m.,
Tewkesbury 19 '^illerica mills 21 m. ^
TWELL,
26 m. the lart
ttcturing town of the United States,
lies on the S. side oi the Vlerrimac r. below Pawtucket falls,
at its junction with Concord r., and possesses a vast amount
of water power, easily available. Lowell is finely situated
with regard to health, surrounded by pleasant hills and val-
leys and seated on a rapid stream. It is laid out with wide
streets, all of the buildings are of recent construction, and in
a style of neatness and elegance. Pop. 1846, about 30,000.
The water power is furnished by a canal 60 ft. wide, 8 ft.
deep, and H m. long, commencing at the head of Pawtuc-
ket falls, which have a descent of 31 ft., and extending to
Concord r. where there are locks, forming a beatable passage
around the falls of the Merrimack. From the main canal
the water is carried by lateral canals to the mills and manu-
factories where it is needed. There are 13 large manufac-
turing companies, having 19 mills, and 250 houses; employ-
ing a capital of $12,000,000, and 9,235 operatives, of which
6,320 are females and 2,915 males; making 75,868,000 yds.
of cloth per annum or nearly enough to belt the globe twice
round, and 14,000,000 yds. of printed calico yearly; paying
for labour $1,500,000 per annum; and consuming annually
12,500 tons of coal, 3,270 cords of wood, 61,100 bales of cot-
ton, 47,000 gallons of oil, 600,000 bushels of charcoal, and
800,000 lbs. of starch. Extensive as the above statistics
show the manufactories to be they will soon be extended 20
per cent. -. '■ - a ■
16 V
a^Wj^-aMi^L'-iA :
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
z
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7
Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716) 872-4503
I
242 BOSTON TO LOWELL AND CONCORD.
A great amount and variety of other business is done in
Lowell, besides that of the incorporated companies. Me-
chanical skill and ingenuity here naturally concentrate, and
the best of artisans and of workmanship in almost all branches
of mpchanical industry, may be here found. The extensive
powder works of Oliver M.Whipple are still in successful ope-_
ration, making 885,000 lbs. of powder per annum. The Lowell
bleachery, with a capital of $50,000, carries on a large busi-
ness for an establishment of that kind. Besides these, Lowell
has a flannel mill, a blanket mill, paper mill, planing ma-
chines, a card factory, a whip factory, reed machines, foun-
dry, grist and saw mills, sash and door manufactory, lock-
manufactories, carriage manufactory, and harness shops
— all these together employing about five hundred hands,
and a capital of $600,000. • ^.^^
The annual amount for sales of manufactured goods is
about $7,000,000. The average wages, exclusive of board,
are for females $1.75 per week, for males 70 cts. a day. The
' lock and canals' company can furnish machinery complete
for a mill of 5000 splindles in four months; and they build
most of the factories, houses, &c. by contract, and also contract
for the water-power and building ground, receiving an annual
rent. There are two carpet manufactories which turn out
some splendid pieces of carpeting, equal to the imported.
The public buildings of Lowell, are, a courthouse, city hall,
market house, mechanics' hall, a hospital belonging to the
factories, and the edifices of the public schools. The hall of
the Mechanics' Association, erected in 1835, is spacious and
is furnished with a fine library and reading room, a chemi-
cal and philosophical apparatus, and an excellent mineralo-
gical cabinet. The public schools consist of a high school,
six grammar schools, 30 primary schools. There are 23
churches, 2 banks, with an aggregate capital of $1,050,000,
and a savings' institution with a deposite of $300,000.
L O W E L L — N A S H U A.
L>43
Lowell, which in 1821 was a barren spot, and in 1826 was
incorporated into a town, and as a city in 1836, presents a
splendid example of an American manufacturing town, and
well deserves the title of 'The Manchester of America.'
The manufactures are generally of the coarser descriptions,
though finer qualities begin to be manufactured; cottons
which 20 years ago would have cost 30 cts. now cost only 6 cts.
a yard. Flannels are made at the Hamilton, sheetings and
shirtuigs at nearly all, with drillings, printed cloths, &c. at
several of the factories. ., ;- ; *" -^ ,. v;^ '
Another source of pride is the excellent character sus-
tained by the operatives ; they are neat and respectable in
their appearance, and of good moral character. Their lite-
rary productions, connections with the various religious so-
cieties, and general freeness from intemperance and crime,
speak volumes in their praise. A periodical entitled the
' Lowell Offering' is published monthly, the articles written
entirely by factory girls, and has an excellent reputation.
From Lowell the railroad extends parallel with the Mer-
rimac to Concord 50 m., via Middlesex 2 m. Chelmsford 2,
Tyneboro 4 m. on the state line, Littles 3, and
NASHUA, « <
4 m., 15 m. from Lowell, and 41 from Boston. The town
is situated on tliC Nashua and Merrimac rivers, is the centre
of a considerable trade, and the seat of important manufac-
tures. The manufactories driven by the water power derived
principally from Nashua river, employ about 1500 opera-
tives, and consume about 5,000,000 lbs. of cotton per annum.
The village contains 8 beautiful churches, some elegant
dwellings, and a population of 6054. The country around
Nashua is hilly, though the soil is very fertile.
Stages run to Montpelier 129 ra. via Windsor 73 m. and
244 BOSTON TO LOWELL AND CONCORD.
Royalton 102 m.; to Charlestown 68 m.; and to Brattleboro^
68 m. via Keene 49 m.
Manchester 18 m. and Hookset 26 m., are small towns on
the Merrimac before reaching
-.;, CONCORD, .y ^v^
50 m. from Lowell, and 76 from Boston. The town is situ-
ated on the W. side of the Merrimac, connected with the E.
side by two bridges, and is the capital of New Hampshire.
The houses are built principally on two streets, one of which
extends nearly two miles between the bridges. It contains a
courthouse, jail, a bank, 6 churches, and a pop. of about 5000.
The State House, is an elegant structure of hewn granite,
with a fine cupola; containing the Senate chamber and the
hall of Representatives ; it stands on a beautiful site in tbe
centre of the village. The State Prison consists of two build-
ings of hewn granite surrounded by a high wall. The soil
around Concord is fertile, and containing large quantities of
excellent granite. On the opposite side of the river is a new
manufacturing village, which bids fair to increase. The prin-
cipal part of the trade with Boston is carried on by a cana?
around the falls, and the Merrimac river. The town was in-
corporated in 1635, and made the first forcible resistance to
British aggression, 1775. A monument marks the spot where
the action took place.
Passengers by the first train on its arrival at Concord can
leave in stages by various routes for Hopkinton, Newport,
Claremont, and Windsor; for Lebanon and Hanover; Ply-
mouth and Haverhill ; Canaan and Oxford ; Meredith Bridge,
Centre Harbour, Comoay, and the Wliite Mountains. On the
second day stages reach Royalton, Middlebury, Montpelier,
and Burlington, connecting with the line of travel, north to
Montreal, and south to Whitehall and Albany. From Haver-
hill also, a line of stages runs to Stanstead and Montreal.
%
..... L
LAKE Wl NNiriS EOGE E.
245
ird can
'fWportj
Ply-
)n the
ier,
)rth to
laver-
il
Stages also run from Concord to Guildhall, via Littleton ;
and to Keene, via Hopkinton and Nelson.
The route from Concord to the White Mountains about
100 m. is through an interesting country, partly through a
valley bordered with lofty mountains, and passing several
beautiful lakes. * --
SquA.M Lake, is a splendid sheet of water, indented by
points, arched with coves, and studded with a succession of
romantic islands; it is 6 m. long and 3 m. in its widest part.
The finest of trout are caught here, and the shores abound
with game, affording excellent sport to the angler and fowler.
Lake Winnipiseogee, is remarkable for its beautiful and
sublime scenery, and rivals the celebrated Lake George. It
is 23 m. long and 6 to 12 broad, of very irregular shape, its
shores being indented with several bays. It is environed
and overlooked by several delightful towns, hills, and moun-
tains. Its waters are very pv re and deep deriving its sources
principally from springs in its bosom, and having an outlet
through the river of the same name. It contains 365 islands,
many of them quite large, and is navigated by steamboats
and other vessels. Like Squam lake it contains a great va-
riety of excellent fish.
The prospect of this lake, and its environs, is enchanting;
and its beauties are seen with great advantage from a de-
lightful elevation a little distance fromf he road towards Ply-
mouth. On the N. W. ascends a beautiful eminence, called
the Red Mountain 1500 ft. ; on the S. is Mount Major, a ridge '
of bolder aspect and loftier height ; and in the distance the
great Ossipee and other mountains tower aloft with bold
sublimity. Dr. Dwight and others have thought the mag-
nificent scenery of the lake and mountains, to fully rival that
of Lake George.
Centre Harbour, between the two lakes is a
v2
delightful
246 BOSTON TO FITCIIBURG AND ALBANY.
stopping place. Moultonborough contains some great natural
curiosities. •' • '• • ■vu'-zi ' +
For description of White MotmtainSj see p. 191.
BOSTON TO FITCIIBURG 50 M.
«
Passengers take the cars at the depot in Charlestown at 7i
and 114 A.M. and 4i P.M. Fare 1.25, time 24 h.
Stopping at West Cambridge 5 m., Waltham 10, Weston
13, Lincoln 17, Concord 20, Acton 27, Littleton 33, Groton
37, Shirley 40, and Leominster 46.
Fitchburg is a manufacturing town on Nashua r. It con-
tains 6 churches, 31 mills and factories of various kinds, and
an inexhaustible quarry of granite. Pop. 2604. Hotels;
Fitchburg Hotel ; Washington House. "
On the arrival of the cars, stages leave Fitchburg daily for
Keene and Walpole, N. H.j for Battlehoro\ Chester, Rutland^
Bennington, Middlebury, and Burlington Vt. ; for Williams-
town 84 m. via Greenfield 45 m. Passengers can procure
througk tickets at the stage office, City Tavern, Brattle St.
Boston.
FROM BOSTON TO ALBANY, 200 M.
Cars leave the depot corner of Lincoln and Beach sts. at
8 A. M. and 4 P. M. v^ Worcester to Springfield. See p. 200.
From Springfield, we continue on the Western R. R. to
. West Springfield, beautifully situated on both sides of West-
field r. at its confluence with the Connecticut, which is
spanned by a fine bridge from shore to shore. From here a
splendid view of the Connecticut Valley meets the eye.
Pop. 3626.
Westfield 8 m. farther is pleasantly situated on a plain,
drained by Westfield and Little rivers. It is surrounded by
high hills, with a handsome public ground in the centre, and
w
jl4«T '1 ■,j?w»^;jT.^
Ists. at
200.
R. to
est-
is
lere a
eye.
3lain,
id by
k and
SCENERY AND TOWNS ON THE ROUTE. 247
contains 2 churches, and a bank. The canal from North-
ampton to New Haven passes through the place.
We now ascend into a more elevated region, passing
through Russell 8 m., Chester Village 3 m., and Chester Fac-
tory 7 m. flourishing towns situated in a romantic region and
abounding with trout streams ; farther on before reaching
Becket, the route passes through the most romantic and
beautifully picturesque region imaginable ; at every turn the
eye is' delighted and refreshed by hasty glimpses of rocky
precipices, flowing rivulets, mountain farms, rocky glens, wa-
terfalls, and other attributes of romantic and picturesque
scenery; mingled with our delight is the surprise and admi-
ration caused by the stupendous triumphs of art over nature,
shown in the bridges across the ravines, and in the massive
embankments, raised to grade the road.
In the route from Becket to Washington 3 m. farther, the
road is elevated 1,430 ft. above the Hudson r. which is re-
duced to 900 ft. at the state line 24 m. W. In this elevated
region the E. branch of the Housatonic and the Westfield r.
take their rise.
Hinsdale 5 m. and Dalton 3 m. are thriving manufacturing
towns, the latter situated on the E. branch of the Housato-
nic r.
PiTTSFiELD 5 m. farther, and 49 m. from Albany, is the
largest town in the county and the most beautiful in this
part of the state. The houses are neatly built and orna-
mented. In the centre is a fine large square. The Berk-
shire Agricultural Society have their fairs here, and agricul-
ture is much improved. It contains 4 churches, a bank,
many manufactories, and the Berkshire medical institution.
The town lies 1,000 feet above the level of the sea, in a fer-
tile valley between the Taughhannic and Green mountains,
watered hy two branches of the Housatonic which unite near
its centre, and create a great water-power. HP '
248
BOSTON TO NEW BEDFORD.
fe
Passing near the Shaker Village 4 m., and Richmond 3 m.,
we cross the State line, 11m. from Pittsfield, where the road
diverges southwardly, to Bridgeport, Conn. 100 m. via West
Stockbridge, passing through Sheffield, New Milford, and
other small towns in the valley of the Housatonic.
After crossing the State line we pass through Canaan 5 m.,
East Chatham 5 m., and Chatham-four-corners 5 m., where the
road diverges S. W. to Hudson, via Greenport, then continuing
on we pass through Chatham Centre 3 m., Kinderhook 4 m.,
Schodack 8 m., Greenbush 8 m., and cross the Hudson r. to
Albany. See p. 78.
TO NEW BEDFORD AND FALL RIVER.
By the Providence and Stonington R. R. from the foot of
the Comm 'U, fare $1.50, via Roxbury 2 m. Jamaica PL 4,
Dedham PI. 8, Canton 14, Sharon 18, Foxhoro 21, Mansfield
24, Norton 29, Taunton 35, Myrick^s 41.
NEW BEDFORD
Pleasantly situated pn the W. side of the Acushnet river, an
estuary of the sea from Buzzard's bay. The ground upon
which the town is built rises beautifully from the water, and
presents a fine appearance ; the upper portion is laid into
beautiful streets which contain many handsome dwellings.
The harbour though not easy of access, is capacious and ,
safe. A wooden bridge and causeway three fourths of a '
mile long connects it with Fairhaven. It contains a court-
house, jail, 4 banks, 4 insurance ofHces, a savings institution,
18 churches, and numerous public schools. r . -■'■
The whale fishery, oil and candle factories, and other
branches of business connected with it, form almost the
entire business of the place ; the tonnage in 1840. was 89,089
-fr:
NANTUCKE T — P ALL RIVER.
249
tons, and 225 vessels. During the Revolutionary war New
Bedford was a place of resort for American privateers j Gen.
Gray with 4000 British troops was sent against them and de-
stroyed property worth $323,250. The town within the past
few years has increased rapidly; present pop. 16.000.
Nantucket on Nantucket Island, is also extensively en-
gaged in the whale fishery. ,, -v ;^^'< .» ! : »
From Myrics 41 m. as above, a branch R. R. extends to
•'':, i r-!\-
FALL RIVER
) •!;■.■ ;,/•
an
)n
md
Very pleasantly situated at the junction of Fall and Taunton
rivers ; the former of which rises in Watuppa ponds, one of
which is 11m. long and 1 m. wide, about 2 m. £. of the
town. Fall r. affords immense and unfailing water power,
having a descent of 140 ft. in 80 rods. The tow^n has a fine
harbour, navigable for the largest ships, safe, and easy of
access. It contains 2 banks, a savings bank, 11 churches,
10 large cotton factories with 75,000 spindles, 2 extensive
print-works, and several other large factories; also an in-
exhaustible quarry of granite equal to that of Quincy. A
most disastrous fire occurred here in 1843 destroying a large
amount of property. Fall River has 10 ships engaged in the
whale fisheries. It is connected with Providence by a steam-
boat, and shortly will be by a R. R. now constructing. Pop.
1845, 10,290.
^.
a
irt-
m,
ler
|he
189
BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH. 37 M.
By the Old Colony R. R. from South Boston, via Dorches-
ter 4 m. see p. 220, Neponset 5, Quincy 8, see p. 226, Brain-
tree 10, Weymouth V Abington 18, Hansen 25, Pembroke 29.
250
PLYMOUTH.
• PLYMOUTH,
37 m. on Plymouth bay a branch of Massachusetts bay, is
full of interest, it being the oldest settlement by Europeans
in New England, and the landing place of the celebrated
Puritans, Dec. 22d, 1620. The town contains a courthouse,
jail, 6 churches, 2 banks, and an insurance co. The harbour
is spacious though not of great depth ; the principal business
is in the whale, mackerel and cod fisheries. Pop. 5281.
Plymouth contains many interesting places and curiosities.
Pilgrim Hall, a neat building of unhewn granite, 70 by 40 ft.
with a Doric portico of 6 columns, was constructed in 1824.
In it the Pilgrim society annually commemorate the anni-
versary of the landing of their forefathers. It contains a
large painting of the landing from 'the Mayflower'; the
chair of Gov. Carver ; the sword-blade of Capt. Miles Stan-
dish and other curious and interesting relics. The rock on
which the pilgrims first landed, was conveyed in 1774 to the
centre of the town. The other principal objects interesting
to the visiter, are Sacrifice Rocks in the woods on the road to
Sandwich, on which the natives as they passed always threw
a stone or stick, supposed to be a religious custom ; Burying
Hill formerly Fort Hill, is an eminence in the rear of the
town, on the summit of which the pilgrims erected a few
works for defence ; from this point is presented a splendid
view of the harbor and the shores of the bay, with the pro-
montory and lighthouse, the town and its shipping, and im-
mediately below us the burying ground of the venerable
forefathers.
■i The principal Hotel, is the Samosel House, new and spa-
cious, commanding an unobstructed view of the harbor,
islands, and ocean, and affording to visiters convenient access
to Forefathers' Rock, Pilgrim Hall, the Ancient Records and
the memorials of the Pilgrims.
«ir
>.t
t )
INDEX.
»
P«Kr ACE V
Bkeletons of the Main Routes vii
Directions TO the Reader ix
Caution to ENOLiaH Tbavellers ix
INTRODUCTION.
Railroada and Steamboats • •' z
Hotels and Inns xi
Eating llouaes, Confectlonaries, 4ic. xii
Money x ii
Foreign Coins in American Currency ziii
Ctiaracteristics of the Country xiv
Scenery of the United States xv
Travellers' General View xv
GENERAL VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES.
General outline and aspect 17
Political Constitution 20
Productive Industry 25
Religion and education 32
History 34
Civil and Social'state 39
spa-
bor,
cees
and
Adrian, 134.
Albany, 60, 65, 78, 230.
Alburg, 101.
Alexandria, 167.
AUyn's Point, 61.
Amherstburg, 135.
Amsterdam, 106.
Andover, 236.
Angelica, 63.
Ashtabula, 132.
Athens, 63, 77.
Auburn, 105, 117.
Augusta, 239.
Avon Springs, 124.
Ballston Spa, 80, 83.
Bangor, 239.
Barcelona, 63, 128, 131.
Barnegat, 73.
Bartlett, 192.
Batavia, 81, 125, 129.
t?
252
INDEX.
Buth, 03, 194,231.
Bath Island, 140.
Becket, 317.
Bellows* Falls, 200.
Bemus' Heights, 63,87.
Bennington, 81.
Binghaniton, 03, 83, 110.
Birniiiighiini, 00.
Black Rock, 143.
Bloomfluld, 200.
Bloomingburg, 03,
Blooniingdale, 05.
Blossburg, 131.
Boston, 01, 81, 103, 807.
Bradford, 330.
Brattleboro, 300, 344.
Breed's Hill. 334.
Bridgeport, 00.
Brockville, 107.
Brock's Monument, 159.
Brookline, 331.
Brooklyn, 55.
Biickfleld, 338.
Buffalo, 81, 105, 130.
Bull's Ferry, 00,
Bunker Hill, 324.
" '• Monument, 335
Burlington, 82, 08, 103, 180
Burning Spring, 100.
Bytown, 173.
Caldwell, 80, 01.
" Landing, 09.
Caledonia Springs, 108, 173.
Cambridge, 221.
Canandaigua, 81, 123.
Lake, 133.
' Cape May, 59.
Cape Rouge, 183.
Cape Tourment, 185. <^
• Cape Vincent, 100.
Carillon, 173.
Carmel Village 09.
Cascades, 108.
Castleton, 78.
Catskill, 01, 75.
Catskill Mountains, 74.
Cayuga, 118.
Cayuga Lake, 118.
Cazenovia, 113. ;
Centre Harbour, 245.
Chambly Canal, 103.
Charlotte, 100.
Charlestown, 323. ^»
Chaudiere Falls, 173.
Chazy, 101. V
Chelsea, 320.
k
Chemung, 03.
Chester village, 247.
Chicago, 128,141.
ChicQUtimi, 188.
Chippewa, 144.
Chlttenango, 113.
Clermont, 01.
(;ievelund. 133.
Coburg, 105.
Coeymans, 01, 77.
Cohnes Falls, 95.
Cold Springs, 58, 73.
Concord, 330, 344.
Coney Island, 58.
Conneaut, 131.
Conway, 193,331.
Cooperstown, 107, 110.
Corning, 03, 131.
Cornwall, 108.
Cortlandtown, 00.
Coteau du Lac, 108.
Coxsackie, 01, 77.
Crown Point, 97.
M
t'
Dalton,347.
Danbury, 03.
Dedham, 220. , . ,
Delhi, 74, 70.
Detroit, 128, 135. . ■
Devil's Hole, 157.
Dickenson's Landing, 108
Dobb's Ferry, 00, 00.
Dorchester, 220.
Dover, 238.
Drummondville, 159.
Du Loup, 180.
Dundas, 103.
Dunkirk, 02, 131.
East Camp, 75.
East Canada Creek, 107.
Eastchester, 58.
East New York, 58.
Eastport, 331, 338.
Elbridge, 117.
Elizabethtown, 58, 02.
Elizabethport, 58.
Ellsworth, 238.
Elmira, 03, 121. :
Erie, 129, 131.
Esopus, 01.
Essex, 08.
::'r \
Fairport, 132.
Fall River, 230, 249.
INDEX.
j:hi
Fall! of Montmoreacl, 18t.
" " the Chtudlera, 183.
Farmington, S38.
Fiahkill, flO, 7a.
Fiihkill Mounuins, M.
Fitchburg, 830, MO.
Flatbuih, 56.
Fluthing, S8.
Fonda, 100.
Fort Erie, 148.
Fort George, 101.
Fort Hamilton, 08.
Fort Independence, 00.
Fort Lee, 00.
Fort MasBBBHuaa, 109. ' '
Fort Niagara, 103.
Fort Plain, 107.
Fort Waahington, 00.
Forts around Boaton, 287.
Four-mile-ppint, 77.
Fredonia, 03.
Fryeburg, 193.
Galop Rapida, 107.
Gardiner, 331.
Geneaco, 04, 139.
Geneva, 04, 131.
Germantov.'n, 79.
Glasgow, 75.
Glen Ckive, 58.
Glen's Falls, 60, 00.
Goshen, 03.
Grand Haven, 137.
Grand Isle, 101.
Grassy Point, 08.
Gravesend, 58.
Great Sodus Bay, 100.
Greenbush, 01, 78.
Greenfield, 300, SSI.
Greenport, 01.
Guildhall, 345.
Guananoqui, 107.
Hadley, 800.
Ilallowell, 331, 338.
Hamilton, 103.
Hampton, 73.
Hancock, 83.
Harlaem, 57, 03.
Harmony, 03.
Harsimus, 57.
Hartford, 00, 190.
Harvard University, 383.
Hastings, 07.
Haverhill, 339, 330.
Ilaverstraw, 08.
w
Hempstead, 58.
Herkimer, 109.
Hoboken, 57, 05.
Holdenville, 03.
Holland Undlng, 104.
Honesdale, 04.
Howard, 03.
Hinsdale, 347.
Hudson, 01, 70.
" River, 05.
Hyde Park, 00, 74.
Iris Island, 149.
Irving, 07.
Isle au Mott, 101.
Isle au Noix, 103.
Isle of Orleans, 184.
Ithaca, 04, 110, 115, 118.
Jamaica, 58.
" Bay, 58
Jamestown, 03.
Jefferson, 131.
Jersey City, 58.
Johnstown, 100, 107.
Kalamaioo, 137.
Kamouraska, 180.
Keene, 345.
Kinderhook, 01, 77.
Kingsbridge, 00.
Kingston, 01, 74, 105.
Lachine, 108.
Lake Champlain, 00.
Lake Erie, 81, 130.
Lake George, 80, 63, 91.
Lake Huron, 138.
Lake Michigan, 140.
Lake Ontario, 110, 103.
Lake Bt. Charles, 183.
Lake St. Clair, 137.
Lake St. Francis, 109.
Lake St. Louis, 108.
Lake St. Peter, 175.
Lake Superior, 139.
Lake Winnipiaeogee, 345.
Lancaster, 108.
Lansingburg, 81, 95.
La Prairie, 80, 103.
Lewiston, 110, 125, 158, 101.
Little Falls, 108.
Littleton, 100.
Livingston, ICl,
%'
1.
-m
254
INDEX.
Lockport, 125, 139, 158.
Long Branch, 59.
Long Island, 58, 61.
Lowell, 2.30, 241.
Lundy's Lane, 159. .-
Lunenburg, 77.
Lynn, 232.
Mackinac, 140. •
Magnolia, 63. '•
Mahopack Lake, 69.
Maitland, 167.
Maiden, 61, 75. •
Mamaroneck, 58. /; -
Manchester, 244.
Manhattanville, 66.
Marlborough, 73.
Manlius, 114.
Mariastown, 167.
Maysville, 63.
Mechanicsville, 80, 82, 95.
Me ride n, 196.
Michigan City, 142.
Middletown, 62. - ': .
Milford, 64. ^'i. -
Milton, 61, 73. '' • " ' '
Mineral Spring, 157.
Mohawk, 109.
Monroe, 1.34.
Monroe Works, 61. ^'
Monticello, 63.
Montreal, 80, 90, 95, 169, 189, 231.
Montpelier, 189, 244.
Montrose, 110.
Moosehead Lake, 240. ,
Morristown, 62, 167.
Moscow, 125.
Mount Auburn Cemetery, 222.
Mount Holyoke, 200.
Mount Tom, 200.
Nantucket, 249. '
Nashua, 230, 243. -
Navy Island, 144.
Newark, 58, 62.
New Baltimore, 61, 77.
New Bedford, 230.
New Brighton, 58.
New Brunswick, 58, 62.
Newburg, 61, 72.
Newburyport, 233.
New Cornwall, 72.
Needham, 201.
New Haniburcr, 73.
New Haven, 60, 193.
New Liverpool, 170.
New London, 202. v
New Milford, 63.
New Paltz Landing, 74.
Newport, 206.
New Rochelle, 58.
Newton, 201.
New Windsor, 72. i;
New York, 41, 228. "
Niagara, 162.
Niagara Falls, 81, 105, 128, 146.
" River, 145.
Niles, 137. : • ■
Norridgewock, 238.' .- *»
Northampton, 200. - • •>- '
Norwich, 61, 203. . ' •
Nyack,68. - '
Oak Hill, 75.
Oakville, 163.
Ocean House, 59.
Ogdensburg, 110, 115, 167.
Ogden's Island, 167.
Ohio City. 133.
Olean, 125,129. .^ k *
Oriskany, 112.
Oswego, 115, 116, 166.
Oswego Canal, 115.
Owasco Lake, 113.
Owego,63, 64, 110.
Oyster Bay, 68. •
Palisades, 66.
Paris, 238.
Passaic Falls, 58, 59.
Paterson, 62, 64.
Peekskill, 60, 69.
Pcllham, 74.
Perrysburg, 128.
Perth Amboy, 58.
Philipsburg, 60, 67.
Piermont, 60, 64, 67.
Pine Orchard, 75.
Pittsfield,81, 247.
Plattsburp, 80, 100, 167.
Pleasant Mount, 63.
Plymouth, 230, 250.
Point View, 157.
Portchester, 58.
Port Henry, 97.
Port Hope, 164.
Port Huron, 137.
Port Kent, 99.
Portland, 229, 236.
Portsmouth, 229, 234.
Port Stanley, 128.
Port St, Francis, 175.
•v(^'
\
>vt
INDEX.
255
Pougiikeepaie, 60, 73;
Prattaville, 76.
Prescott, 167.
Presque Isle, 138.
Providence, 61.
Quarantine ground, 58.
Quebec, 80, 90, 95, 176.
Queenaton, 116, 145, 158.
Quincy, 226.
Rahway, 58, 63.
Raniapo, 61.
Red Banks, 59. ^ -
Red Hook, 60. >
Regaud, 173.
Rhinebeck, 60, 74.
Richelieu Rapids, 176.
Rideau Canal, 166.
Ridgefield, 69.
Rochester, 64, 81, 115, 123.
Rockaway, 58.
Rome, 113.
Rondout, 61, 74.
Rouse's Point, 80, 102.
Roxbury, 221.
Russell, 247.
Rye, 58.
Sackett's Harbour, 110, 166.
Saco, 235.
Saguenay river, 184, 186.
Salem, 229, 232.
Salina, 115.
Sandusky, 134.
Sandy Hook, 59.
Sandy Hill, 80, 82, 94.
Saratoga Springs, 80.
Saugerties, 61, 75.
Sault de St. Marie, 138.
Schenectady, 80, 83.
Schlosser's Landing, 143.
Schoharie, 82.
Schooley's Mountain, 58.
Schuylerville, 82, 96.
Seneca Fall, 120.
Seneca Lake, 120.
Sharon Springs, 82, 9.5, 107.
Shrewsbury, 59.
Sing Sing, 60, 63.
Skaneateles, 115.
Slaughter's Landing, C8.
Somerville, 58, 62.
South Berwick, 235.
Split Rock, 98.
Spraker's Baaln, 73, lOG.
Spuyton Devil's Creek, 66.
Squam Lake, 245.
Staatsburg, 60, 74.
St Anne's, 172.
Stillwater, 82, 96.
St. Johns, 103, 231.
St. Josephs, 137.
St. Laurent, 185.
St. Lawrence River, 104.
St. Nicholas, 176.
Stockport, 61.
Stoney Point, 69.
Stonington, 61, 204.
Stoughton, 229.
St. Patrick's Hole, 184.
St. Regis, 168.
Stuvvesant Falls, 61, 77.
Sy -ncMBe, 81, 82, 114.
Tadouaac, 186.
Tappan Bay, 67.
Tarrytown, 60, 67, 75
Teller's Point, 67.
Thompsonville, 200.
Thousand Isles, 165.
Three Rivers, 175.
Ticonderoga, 92.
Tinton Falls, 59.
Tivoli, 75.
Toledo, 128, 134.
Tompkinaville, 58.
Tonawanda, 143.
Toronto, 116, 161, 163.
Trenton Falls, 111.
Tribe's Hill, 106.
Troy, 60, 65, 80.
Turner's Depot, 61.
Two Mountains, 172.
«•'
Union Race Course, 58.
Utica, 81, 109.
Varennes, 175.
Verplanck's Point, 69.
Wadington, 167.
Wallingford, 196.
Wappinger's Creek, 60.
Warsaw, 129.
Washington, 247.
Waterboro, 63.
Waterford, 82, 95, 238.
Waterloo, 121, 143.
250
INDEX.
Watertown, 110.
Weebawken, 57, 05.
Welland Canal, 160.
Well'B Island, 167.
Weetborough, 201.
West Camp, 75.
West Canada Creek, 109.
West Farms, 58.
Westfield, 63, 246.
West Point, 70.
Westport, 97.
West Rock, 105.
West Springfield, 246.
West Stockbridge, 60.
West Troy, 95.
Whirlpool, 157. i 4-
Wliitehall, 60, 94. ^>
White Mountains, 130, 291.
White Plains, 63, 66.
Whitesborough, IIS.
William Henry, 175.
Williamsbridge, 58.
Williamsburg, 58.
Windsor, 200.
Worcester, 61, 200.
Wurtzboro', 63.
Yale College, 194.
Yonkers, 60.
Yorkville, 57.
Youngstown, 161.
Ypsilanti, 137.
tm
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