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 JOURNAL 
 
 OF 
 
 ^ ^j^age of ©feeober^ 
 
 TO THE 
 
 . NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN, 
 
 AND 
 
 ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 [Price One Shilling.] 
 
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JfARRJLTIVB 
 
 OR 
 
 JOURNAL 
 
 OF 
 
 A Voyage of Discovery 
 
 TO THE 
 
 NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN, 
 
 it-' 
 
 ' '-■ AND 
 
 ROUND THE WORLD, 
 
 PERFORMED 
 
 In the Years 1791, 1792, 1793, 179*, and 1795: 
 
 Capt. GEORGE VANCOUVER, 
 
 ■ ^S: . ■ ■ ''^ AND ^'.-^ 
 
 UEUTENAI^T BROUGHTON. i 
 
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 LONDON: 
 
 r&iNTxo poa 
 J. LEE, N». II, Whych Street, Temple Bar: 
 
 SOLD BY 
 
 R. S. KERBY, N». 15, Paternoller Row. 
 J* Smfeto»i PrinUff 148» 5/. Martin's LanCf Charing Gross^ 
 
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 1* 
 
 NAkRATlVE OF A VOYAGE 
 
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 TO THE 
 
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 : NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN-, f ^ 
 
 AND 
 
 ROUND THE WORLD, 
 
 PERFORMED IS 
 
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 1791, 1792, 1793, 1794, and 1795. 
 
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 THIS voyage was undertaken at his Majesty's ecmh 
 mand, principally with a view to ascertain fhfi 
 existence of any navigable commuitication between the 
 North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans, and to m£^ 
 (without which, it could/ not have been so successfully 
 completed) an amicable adjustment of the disputes 
 which had subsisted between the Courts of Madrid mad 
 London, relative to the possession of Nootka Sounds 
 and territory ; a prior right to the whole having been 
 claimed by the Spaniards, to the total exclusion of tl^e 
 English, and indeed of the subjects of all other nations, 
 cither as navigators or as traders, with the natives of 
 the country. 
 
 The vessels equipped for the Voyage, under the com- 
 mand of Captain George Vancouver, were the Disco- 
 very sloop of war, burthen 340 tons, and the Chatham 
 armed tender, of 135 tons; the crew of the Discovery, 
 including the officers, consisted of 100 men, and Mr. 
 Pugct was second lieutenant. The crew of the Tender 
 consisted of 45, including the ofllicers, viz. the com- 
 maiulcr Lieutenant Droughton, one lieutenant, and the 
 . master. 
 % ■■ ■ ■ .,• ; , '1 ^ ^v'^' ■ ■ Every 
 
 90ft7r7^^ 
 
Vancoirocr^s Voi/agc of Discover jf 
 
 , Every thing necessary, expedient and comfortable, 
 tiSf well for the persional accommodation of the ofiicei-s 
 and men, as for the accomplishment of the objects of 
 the \'oyagcs was amply and attentively provided, par* 
 ticularly such provisions and medicines as were peculi- 
 nrly calculated to preserve the health of the crews, in 
 traversing the remote parts of the globe, they w ere 
 destined to explore, and to. support them under extra- 
 ordinary labour and fatigue. Ihe two vessels sailed 
 i^rom Falmouth, on Friday the 1st of April, 1791 : the , 
 evening previous to their d^arturc, his Majesty's pro- 
 clamation had arrived, offering bounties for manning 
 the fleet : several sail of the line were put into com* • 
 jnission, and flag officers appointed to diflercnt com- 
 mands: these circumstances occasioned much solicitude 
 among the departing crew, who in consequence of a 
 icing a'bsencc fiom home, could hsLVt little or no oppoi> 
 tuhity of learning the results. -M^'. 
 
 ' By his instructions, Captain Vancouver was to pro- 
 're^d to the Sandwich Islands, and to pass the ensuing 
 'v inter in that station; but he was left at liberty. to " 
 pursue whatever route appeared the most eligible. lie 
 t6ok the accustomed track, intending to visit the Ma- 
 deiras, for the purpose of procuring wine and refresh- 
 mei)ts. Unfavourable and variable winds attended their 
 course, and tboir first exertions were to gain Frenchal 
 Road, but as it was found expedient to break up the 
 Chatham's hold, for the purpose of receiving a large 
 portion of ballast, the road«tead of Santa Cruz was 
 deemed a better station, for rendering her thi' service, 
 which on Thursday eveniHg, the 28th, they approached, 
 and were met by the master attendant, who plart'd 
 the Discovery, in what he conceived, a good birth, 
 and the Chatham in her immediate neighbourhood. 
 
 On Vriday afternoon, Captain Vancouver, Lieutenant 
 Broughton, and some of the other ofiicers waited on 
 }iis Excellency, Senior Don- Antonio Guiterres, the 
 goNcrnor general of the Canaries, who then resided in 
 
 the 
 
'5 
 
 4 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 To the Korlh Pacific Ocean, SfO. # 
 
 tbe City of Santa Cruz. The visitors met with a polita 
 leception : his excellency assured them of his willing-i 
 ness to render them all possible assistance, but pleaded 
 the poverty of the country for not Inviting them to hi» 
 table. The same party visited the City of Langoona, 
 on Suliday, May the 1st, and on their return to Santa 
 Cruz, dined with an Irish gentleman (Mr. Rhortey) whd 
 treated them with the g^reatest kindness and hospitalityi 
 
 The inconvenient situation of the Chatham had re-» 
 tarded her business, which was not completed till 
 Saturday night the 7th ; the ballast she then took ia 
 prevented her from being so very crank, but by no 
 means assisted her sailing, in which she was still exceed- 
 ingly inferior to the Discovery- 
 
 The contractor having been directed to supply such- 
 articles as were required, they took a large quantity of 
 beef, which was exceedingly good, as were also thq 
 wine and water : but as to fruit, vegetables, poultry 
 and all kinds of live stock, they were, at this time of 
 the year, very indifterent and exorbitant. 
 
 Witii'a pleasant wind, and smooth sea, and fine w^ca- 
 thcr, they lost sight of the Canaries, towards Sunday 
 noon, the 8th j and diieciing their coui^sc to the west- 
 ward of the Cape do Vcrds, gained sight of and passed 
 them on the forenoon of Saturday the l-ith ; at this time 
 the N. VV. extremity of the island of St. Antonio, 
 seemed to be situated in 17° IQ' N. lat. and Sd" 3/ 2" 
 W. long. A considerable change took place now in thcJ 
 weather and wind ; the fresh beef, with which they had 
 been supplied at Teneriffe, was exhausted, and porta- 
 ble soup and sour krout were again served to the crcvvj " 
 Their progress \Vas very slow, until Thursday the '24th, 
 when they seemed to have passed the line of those disa- 
 greeable and frequently unhealthy regions, being in 4*? 
 25' N. lat. and 21** 36' W. long. After crossing the 
 tropic of Cancer, (Sunday the 12th) the wind became 
 very variable, and the weather was in general pleasant, 
 bat their progress was considerablv retarded by the 
 :..•'■ U 2 "' slow. 
 
Vancouver* i Voyage of Distovery 
 
 i 
 
 
 slow sailing of the Chatham, which continued equally 
 ^ in light as in fresh gales. She remained in sight ojf 
 the Discovery till the morning of the 1st of July when 
 she was not within the limits of their horrizon. On 
 approaching the African shore, the weather became 
 very unsettled ; they had several 'suddcn transitions 
 from calms to heavy gales, attended with much thunder, 
 lightening and a heavy swell from the westward and 
 S. W. In the afternoon of the 8 th there was a most 
 extraordinary agitation of the sea, for the space of 
 3even minutes, which Captain Vancouver supposed to be 
 the effects of two contending currents, and therefore did 
 not try soundings. On the 9th at day-light the Cape 
 was in sight, bearing east, by compass, eight leagues 
 distant. , :, > 
 
 'ihey now -directed their course to False Bay, ima» 
 gining Table l^ay at this boisterous season of the year, 
 liot only unpleasant but insecure. Having passed the 
 promontory, and the dangerous rocks, which lie in its 
 neighbourhood, they stood into False Bay, and the 
 weather becoming calm, anchored in 40 fathoms water. 
 'Ihe next morning, they weighed anchor, and with a 
 light southerilly breeze, and the assistance of their 
 boats a-kead towing the ship, they reached Simon't 
 "Bay, at about seven in the evening, where they 
 ancliored in 1 2 fathoms water. They were now over- 
 taken by the Chatham; the Discovery having, since 
 their separation outsailed her consort only the night's 
 run. 
 
 On Monday morning, the 11th, an officer was sent 
 to inform Mr. Brandt, the resident commandant of the 
 ports, of their arrival, and to request his permission to 
 procure such stores as were required, and to make 
 such arrangements as were necessary, fot the fefit- 
 ii\eiit of thtir vessels ; Mr. Brandt having politely com- 
 plied, the garrison was saluted with 11 guns, and the 
 coijUpliment was equally returned. Captain Vancouver, 
 Lieutenant Broughton, and Romc of the other officers,. 
 
 then 
 
 
 
una* 
 
 Tv the North Pacific Oceaiir Sj-c, ^ 
 
 tlipn paid their personal respects, and were received^ 
 with much politeness and hospitality. Artificers were 
 liired to assist in the necessary repairs, and as the ma- 
 jor part of the stores and provisions were to come from. 
 Ctipe-Town, Captain Vancouvery and Lieutenant 
 Broughton, visited Mr.. Rhcnios, the acting governor 
 there^ for the purpose of inspecting them. 
 
 Besides the Discovery and Chatham there were her« 
 his Majesty's- ship the Gorgon, the Warren Hastings, 
 and Earl FitzwiUiam Indiamen, from Bengal ; two Port 
 Jackson transports, from- China, bound home; three 
 with convicts bound to Port Jackson> two American 
 and some Dutch and Danish merchant -hips. Captaia* 
 Vancouver took this* opportunity of sendlag' home four 
 of liis seamen, in the Warren IlastingSj as their consti- 
 tutions were inadequate to the service, and he had pro- 
 cured others in their stead. 
 
 It being customary in the Cape of Good Hope, for as- 
 many officers as can be spared, to take up their resi- 
 flence on shore. Captain Vancouver, unwilling to break, 
 in upon old practices^ g:\vc his consent j but was ex- 
 ceedingly hurt on his return to '^ a that several of his 
 company were indisposed witn a dysentery^ which- 
 though not malignant at firsts became latterly very 
 serious. This disorder prevailed among the crew of the 
 other vessels, and could not be accounted for, as the 
 utmost temperance was observed, and the provisions 
 were all of the best quality:. The surgeon of the Dis* 
 covcry was suddenly seized with this complaint, arid. 
 reduced to aa extreme state of delirium, but without, 
 any symptoms of fever. This diswdor vwas at length, 
 attributed to a large Dutch ship lately arrived from. 
 Batavia, from which several men had been sent on. 
 shore to the hospital, very ill and dying with that and 
 other infectious diseases. This serious calamity ren- 
 dered the Captain exceedingly anxious to get to sea. 
 A supply of provisions, which completed their stock for. 
 4^8 months, at full allowance, and a due proportion of 
 
 B 3 store* 
 
On the morning orAugustX ,o,r,? ""•^ "»'»''«'' 
 put to sea, but the HTO,l«fcifi- ' '% "'Jcmptcd to 
 ;;erc only .-apabfey "y^^"'"? '<> 'he S. S. £ thJ; 
 «l<e better convcnienep nf ^-r "*"■* ""'"''e birth for 
 ""ted, which w" not l\t?«' :''"" "■« *!"<) per- 
 «'on, when a light bree^" If "f^'^ ^ 1 7th, Znt 
 «he discovery and Ch«t\7 *'"."8''g "Pfrom the N W 
 
 «qu8lly returned; they wi JI , " g""', which were 
 ^drairal Barrington, '^and Lt. "*'' ''' *« Albemarle 
 ««Porf Jacksonf ' "'' ^"'*°"'» transports, bound , 
 
 off ^'-/o^ ufebluTfh?. 5 ,1 1" "*^' --'-ous 
 ^f case ofseparation, the rh» .■'''«'"• "^S- '^t. there 
 <!a>s. and if 'i„ ,],^^'^^ ^''««bam wa, ,« cruize Z"o 
 
 D-scovery she was to pr^eeH it ""l "^"^ «"h tbe 
 strucuons. For several dav, ,hrK'^,"'« *° other C 
 and stormy weather rl? • ,f^ '""' """able wind, 
 southerly ?ou„e : ith fhTZlr""''' •""' f-^^ » 
 foraiafon re,pectins seve^ dTffi '"^?"'"»g «on,e in- > 
 "'d to exist ii the fpace ^hevt^"" '''"»'*' "'"ch are 
 - ltl\pt'\ ""»«" "hi'mSj^-Jing on the' 
 
 38'20'S.VZtri'?"' P"~"<^' of sT.; 15 ""^ 
 f~tn Prosea, i4"ii '■ST"" leather pfe* e,^e'd h,";™^ • 
 « -mprudent to°a, e3i 'T™''^'' 'hough he .Iclued 
 
 ••ewasmduccdtoshapeaconr '*'"'"' connected 
 
 south easternmost, said to he i?^ f "^ '" <■"" »' «ith t^ e ' 
 according to the renor nf . "'.f" ^O'loi.g. 43^ ",° 
 70 ent increasing Si °, Ts^v^'' ^"^^^ = but 1 
 ^!^t entirely frfm the quL'-n^K "'"'>'' ''"■'« to ' 
 .">« gale hccame a .ro,„ 1 ^' "'' '«'»' to il,,. s r 
 
 couise. ^ -■^"'' they resumed their cutter " 
 
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To t%e I^orth Patiific Oceariy S^c. 
 
 .t 
 
 TTie flistemjier which had been caught at the Cape 
 still continued among the crew, of which one of the 
 marines, Neil Coil, died Wednesday, September 7th, 
 
 On the ^h, they passed between the Islands of St, 
 Paul and Amsterdam, distant from the latter about 
 five or six leagues. The Isle of Amsterdam, so called 
 by Mr. Cox, our navigators could not get sight of, on 
 account of the thick and rising weather. From hence, 
 towards the coast of New Holland, their course was di* > 
 rected between the tracks of Dampier and M. Marion, 
 over a space supposed to have beien hitherto unfre- 
 quented. They tried for soundings several times, but 
 could not touch bottom, at the depth of 180 fathoms* 
 On Monday the 26th, they p'^rceivcd land fro«. the 
 mast head; for which, at the dawning of day on the 
 27th, they made all sail, with a gentle gale from the 
 N. W. a smooth sea, and pleasant weather : and now 
 it mqy be said their discoveries first commenced. The 
 tv'rstcrnmost land which was no^v in sight (it having been 
 the northernmost that was seen the prece^ding night) is 
 remarkable for its high cliffy falling perpendicularly into 
 the sea : it forms a conspicuous promontory, on which 
 Capt. Vancouver bestowed the title of Cape Chatham^ 
 in honor of the then first Lord of the Admiralty. It ist 
 situated in Lat. 35«. 3' and in Long. 116°. 35' 30\ , 
 From this Cape, the land to the westward takes a direc* 
 tion N. 39' VV. and the land to the eastward S. 8' E. 
 
 It was now the Captain's determination to put into 
 the first port he could discover, aa he thought a little 
 recreation might be of some service to the crew, who 
 still continued indisposed with the dysentery; accor- 
 dingly, they reached the coast within three or four 
 mile:5 of the shore : — The country along the sea side, 
 consisted of dreary hills, with very little herbage, and 
 that of a brownish green hue, from a soil which seemed 
 to have been chiefly composed of white sand, and from 
 which projected several large white rockj», of diticrent 
 a'l'dQn and ^shapes. In thv evening of the 27th, a small 
 
 detucht'd 
 
Vancouver's Voyage ofDiscotery^ 
 
 detached islet bore, by compass, S. 87 E. the eastern- 
 most part of the main in sight N. 8^ E. a projecting, 
 point, whence extended a long range of white clifis, N. 
 76 E. the nearest shore, N. 34 E. and is but five mile?, 
 and the westernmost land in sight N. 45 W. The next 
 day (Sept. 28.) it was found that these white cliff* 
 formed the southernmost point of this part of the coast,, 
 and on which Capt. Vancouver bestowed the name of 
 Cape Howe, in honor of that late noble Earl. It 
 w situated in lat. 33° 17' and in long. 117° 52'. The 
 land considered the preceding night as the easternmost 
 part of the main, now appeared to be an Island. By 
 means of a light breeze from the N. \V. they da'ew in. 
 with the coast. An high mountain, whick was more 
 conspicuous than any of the adjoining hills, on account 
 of its superior elevation^ was called by the captain. 
 Mount Gardner, in honor of his friend, Sir Alan 
 Gardner, and the bar^-en rocky cluster of isles, he cal- 
 led Eclipse Islands, there having been an eclipse of 
 the sun at this time. A port was now discovered round 
 the high rocky bluff point, into which the Chatham was 
 directed to lead ; at this time they had pleasant weather 
 and a gentle breeze, but it soon changed, became thick, 
 and rainy with much thunder and lightning : they stood 
 into the port which was found eligible, and came to 
 anchor iu six fathoms water. The high rocky bluff point 
 forming the S. W. extremity of the sound, was distiur- 
 guished by the name of Bald Head, on account of its 
 smooth appearance and being destitute of verdure: a 
 l/igh rocky island in the entrance was called Break 
 Sea Island, on account of its beaten appearance, by 
 its opposition to the sea and S. W. wind ; another iiigli 
 island was called Michaelmas Island, N. (S'Z E. 
 and a small high island Seal Island, on account of 
 its being a great resort of those animals, N. A party 
 was dispatched in the boat on a fishing party, and Cajv* 
 tain Vancouver with Lie^itcnant Broughton and others 
 "Went in the yawl to follow the iiyliing party, and to exar 
 
 mine 
 
To the Konh Faoific Oceatif ifC, ."fk 
 
 mine, if the sound would afford a more eligible situation' 
 than that which they occupied. 
 
 The seine was hauled on the third sandy beach front 
 Bald Head, with better success. Here they found a 
 stream of fresh water draining through the Jaeach, which 
 was well tasted, though nearly of the colour of brandy^ 
 and by this stream they found a clump of trees, which 
 answered the purpose of fuel. Here they also discovered 
 a miserable habitation, being a kind of basket hut, 
 covered with the bark of trees, and small green boughs ;, 
 it tnd not seem to have been long deserted by its 
 tenants, as on the top was lying a fresh skin of a fish,. 
 commonly called a leather jacket, and by its side the 
 dung of some carnivorous animal. Except the skin o£ 
 this fish, there was no indication either by bones or 
 shells, of what the wretched inhabitants subsisted on : 
 there was the appearance of a fire having been made in 
 the front.—Sympathy dropt a tear at the solitary and 
 evidently miserable situation of some poor fellow crea- 
 ture, who was probably cast here to endure excessive 
 famine and distress, and exchanged the inclemency of 
 the wave.s for the hardships of a barren shore ! 
 
 Having taken possession with the usual fonnalities of 
 all the land, thoy could descry north westward of Cape 
 Chatham, they ho^iored the jM'rt, being the first they 
 discovered, with the name of Kii^o Geohoe th» 
 Third's Sound ; and it being the anniversary of the 
 birth of the Princess Royal, the harbour behind the 
 sound wail named the Princess Royal Harbour. 
 King George the Third's Sound is situated in lat. 35<» 6' 
 S. long. llS" 17'. 
 
 They found a passage narrow and shoal, for some 
 distance, into the north eastern passage, and a bar 
 extended across its entrance, on which there were only 
 three fathoms water. In the way out of the harbour, 
 the boats grounded on a bank, which was covered with 
 excellent tasted oysters, on which they regaled, and 
 
 witd 
 
I> 
 
 lo 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 
 '»»scqt„cV<^f f^' ««-•'> boats IV K 
 
 ; « not a „(.„ ;,;""* •* remarW that ft- ^ 
 
 '« ^^hichMfT'"^' "^ it app^a^ to b" ,?-^*'" bank 
 
 *"«5. on n,.a,|y a ,, >" "'^ "'» nathJ Z •J^"""*" • 
 "bout (,vo do Jn ,•..''' 'P<" of grOilM^' ""'" "■« 
 
 »'«= place ttZ T'"'.'' •"«•• £"«;'''"'''''"« "f 
 
 "J'A (»upS<l to i''"^'-"'"'" from „t rest"? " """'' 
 "•e natives, if any l"^ "'"">'; '" order 7o ,7,1,'. ""'"' 
 
 <!«■> strong Jef,""' \'^^»4o(2n^^",'^ ■.'^ ">»'er 
 
 '^«'' the sei : "^'"'f Ty '^»'' 'ot W ^''"^'■''''•'"''y 
 "yx-'ts. It A ,rf ' '""' obtained a s^J^ ^ "'«essfu/ - 
 «"»morni„' bf,';?'.''eon intended ,?''"" ''W'^ "f 
 Wind. Lient ' ""'"■ departum ^ P''*'"'"' to «-. 
 
bank was ia 
 
 %ster bank 
 ^^ ^<?ry spofc 
 ^ t^ie same 
 
 ?an to cut 
 s removed 
 ace H'hcra 
 
 ^Princes* 
 "e Souiic}^ 
 
 nt watcr^ 
 
 ^ikewiso 
 lidst tl.e 
 
 iStllig of 
 
 «»gn.3 of 
 file had 
 or fiiree 
 
 one ot 
 f some 
 ''»g in 
 knives, 
 any of 
 hood,, 
 
 ained 
 
 sud. 
 pre. 
 6% 
 ably 
 >sful 
 ' of 
 sra 
 tile 
 :)rQ 
 to 
 at 
 
 To the Korth Pacific Oceaiiy Sfis, 
 
 U 
 
 ^m 
 
 % 
 
 •.':ii!) 
 '•h^ 
 
 Mrmnt Gardner, which was found a short and compact 
 «hore, with the same appearances of fires having been 
 made, tiiough there were no traces of inhabitants or 
 dwellings. ». 
 
 Another excursion through Oystef Harbour was 
 made on Friday the 7th, when they saw several large 
 black swans, in stately attitude on the water, the under - 
 par; 3 of whose wings and breast, (when they took to 
 flight) appeared to be white. They also met with 
 abundance of fine fish, ducks, curlews and other wild 
 fowl. They saw some appearances of huts, but could 
 meet with no natives. They returned to their boats by 
 IX different route. 
 
 The country along the coar^ts was in appearance very 
 like that of Africa ajjout the Cape of Good Hope. The 
 surface seemed to be chiefly composed of sandj mixed 
 with decayed vegetables, varying exceedingly in poipt of 
 richness. The stones they found, were chiefly of coral, 
 with some black and brown pebbles, slate, quartz, two 
 or three sorts of granite, with fome sand stones, but 
 none of any metallic quality. The most remarkable of 
 its productions was the gum plant, which was found in 
 great abundance, and of the same description of that at 
 Port Jackson, mentioned in Philips's Voyage ; they also 
 met with great quantities of wild cellery ; this and cam- 
 phirc were the oitly eatable vegetables they procured ; 
 there were numerous other plants, a great variety of 
 beautiful flowers, and several shrubs of difi'erent kinds* 
 The forest trees appeared of four different soits; the 
 most common resembled the holly, but these were not 
 the largest. Those of the myrtle tribe rcscmbling the 
 pimento of the West Indies, served for fuel; another 
 kind was like the silver tree of the Cape of Good Hope; 
 and the largest (one of which measured nine feet foiu* 
 inches in girth, and was of a proportionate height) 
 seemed to be a hard ponderous close grained wood, and 
 produced a considerable quantity of gum. They saw no 
 ■quadrupeds, except a dead Kangaroo, but variety of 
 *.'. small 
 
m 
 
 ^m 
 
 
 11. 
 
 it 
 
 yanconivet*s Voyage of Discovery 
 
 small birds^ one resembling the English crow ; two or 
 three yellow reptiles, and bron^e-colourcd snakes, which 
 %v'ere good eating: some beautiful turtles, common 
 iflies, &c. ^ 
 
 Th« wind continued unfavourable till the 10th ; When 
 it veered to the south, and afforded some hopes of 
 getting to sea ; however it resumed its former direction, 
 but being somewhat favourable the next day, they 
 weighed anchor, and turned out of the sound. At four 
 in the afternoon they regained the ocean, but were 
 obliged to stand to the south easftward,the wind gradually 
 veering to the north : by daylight of the 18th, they were 
 out of sight of the coast, until the forenoon, when it was 
 calm, and the atmosphere clear :~ there was a consider* 
 ruble swell from the eastward, and no soundings could 
 be gained at the depth Of 200 fathoms: during night 
 they directed their course to the N. E. On the 20th, 
 they steered north, which brought tl '>m within sight of 
 land, to the N. W. making like three Islands, but on 
 Jicarer approach, the two westermost were evidently 
 connected by the land to the main ; but as ^hc connec- 
 tion of the northernmost was dubious, they gave it the 
 name of Doubtful Island. This Island, with the 
 shores to thcS. W. thereof, nearly resembled thejrest of 
 the coasts ; but it was different to the N. E. being there 
 cum>3sed of high detached clusters of craggy moun- 
 tains, on a base of seemingly low and level ground, 
 which appeared well wooded, particularly to the N. W. 
 of Doubtful Island, where the land falls back to a con- 
 siderable distance, forming either a low flat country, or 
 a deep well sheltered bay. At noon, a high bluff point, 
 extending from the northernmost cluster of mountains . 
 (the eastennost land then in sight, bore, by compass, 
 >f. 24 E.) the most western cluster of mountains, seem- 
 ingly disunited, N. 67 W. about 9 leagues distant, and 
 the cast point off Doubtful Island, and the western 
 most land, at that time visible, S. 73 W. A remarkable 
 point on the coast, in lat. 34* 23', long USi° ^$' was 
 
 called 
 
 
 
To the North, Pacific Oceaiiy 8f\:. 
 
 ■*■•'' 
 
 ' (\ 
 
 called Point Hood, after Admiral Hood. The 
 nearest land, at six ia the evening, was a rocky IsUn*!, 
 about two milts round, which bore, by com|2^5s, N. 13 
 E. 8 miles distant. 
 
 On the 2 1st, they had a light breeze from tfere S. S» E, 
 with which they stegrcd for the land, until about nine, 
 when they tacked in 60 fathoms. The land now Vk 
 sight, bore, by compass, from the N. W. to E. by N- 
 each extremity 5 or 6' leagues distant. All this W4» 
 supposed to be the main, though it appeared iomevrhat 
 broken between N. and E. N. E. The land, which in 
 the morning bore cast and now bore, by compass^ N- 
 87 E. 8 miles distant, was a rocky Island, about a 
 joague in circuit and was disitinguishcd by the name oi 
 Term-INaTion Isl'and, as it proved the ternjiination 
 of their researches on this coast: the sea broke with 
 raucli violence on it, and there was a small low islet be- 
 tween it and the main ; i\\ lat. QV 32' long. 122" 8f N. 
 84 E. All this low country appeared destitute of wood, 
 or herbage, and was interspersed with white and hrowrt 
 ))^tches, the cflects as supposed of the ditlcrent colours 
 t>f sand or rock, whicl\.formed it- 
 
 At this time, they had exceeding ^ne weather, with 
 a light variable breeze in the eastern quarter, whicli 
 drew them soni« distance from the crust, and preventetl 
 their making much progress in the direction, in wh^ch. 
 it seemed to bend. On the ^3d, the wind settled in the 
 western board, and they steered to thfe E. N. E. but ai 
 noon it suddenly shifted to the southward^ attended 
 %ith a very heavy syvell in that direction, which fore*- , 
 boding stormy weather, the signal was made by tb6 
 Discovery for the Chatham to join her, and theic 
 toorse was directed to E. S^ E. All further examina:*- 
 tion of this coast, was now relinquished, and they pro- 
 ceeded to the Pacific Ocean. Their apprehensions of 
 boisterous weather, were however ill founded ; it still 
 continued pleasant, with a gentle gale^ chiefly, fvtmi the 
 
 ^ yHtkttm 
 
 ^ 
 
'U 
 
 Vancouver's Voyage of Discovert^ 
 
 n 
 
 vestern quarter, with which they steered to the S. E. 
 and on the 26th, had sight of Van Dieman's Land, 
 bearing by compass E. N. E. 10 or 12 leagues distant. 
 It was not till late in the day, that the land could be 
 plainly distinguished. In the evening, about 7 o'clock, 
 they tacked and stood to the S. VV. It was nearly calm 
 
 *<during the night, and though within three or four 
 leagues of the land, no soundings could be gained at the 
 depth of 130 fathoms. 
 
 It was now the Captain's determination to visit 
 Dusky Bay, in order to procure timber for planks, 
 spars for tent-poles, &c. but more especially refresh- 
 ments for the indisposed, for though by this time the 
 dysentery was considerably abated, yet those who had 
 been afflicted with it, were in a very languid and reduced 
 state. 
 
 Noyp«^ber the 2d, about 9 in the forenoon, they 
 were wi.ain sight of the coast of New Zealand, bearing 
 
 -by compass, E. N. E. 12 or 14 leagues distant. Hi- 
 therto the weather had been tolerably fine, and the 
 wind favorable, but now the weather became exceed- 
 ingly hazy. They stood for the land, making all sail, 
 with a fresh brr.eze at S. W. but it Mas one o'clock in 
 the afternoon, before it was plainly distinguished. In 
 
 ♦ the evening, the wind veered round to tlie N. N. W. 
 and being light with alternate calms, the 'boats were 
 hoisted out to tow, and about nine o'clock, they an- 
 chored in 40 fathoms, soft bottom, into the arm lead- 
 ing into Facile Harbour. About 11 o'clock, the 
 Chatham anchored, and though within the Discovery, 
 was in 60 fathoms water. 
 
 Captam Vancouver, Lieutenant Broughton and Mr. 
 "Whcdbey, now went to determine on the most conve- 
 nient situation for their employments. On their return, 
 they were alarmed by the report of two guns, and na- 
 turally concluded that one or both the vessels had dri- 
 ven from their anchorage. When clear of the islands, 
 they perceived their apprehensions were partly just: 
 
 , th« 
 
To the North Pacific Ocean, SfC* 
 
 IS 
 
 the S. E. 
 n's Land, 
 
 s distant. 
 
 could be 
 7 o'clock, 
 ajl> calm 
 
 or four 
 »cd at tJic 
 
 >n, diey 
 bearing 
 ^t. PJi- 
 and the 
 exceed- 
 all sail, 
 ■lock in 
 ?d. In 
 N. W. 
 s were 
 ey an- 
 1 lead- 
 
 OVi 
 
 (he 
 
 cJ Mr. 
 'onvc- 
 cturn, 
 id na- 
 I dri- 
 ands, 
 just; 
 the 
 
 the Qiatham was stationary, but the Discovery wa» 
 moving, and by the time they reached her (about one 
 o'clock), she was nearly abreast of Five Finger Poiiit, 
 On the ships driving, a second anchor had been applie>d,. 
 but the depth of water being upwards of 70 fathimiSy 
 she was not brought up. As they were shortly enabled 
 to set the sails, and had a strong gale at N. N. W. the 
 Captain hoped, notwithstanding the heavy squalls, to 
 reach their intended situation at Facile Harbour, before 
 dusk: but about five o'clock, a violent gust of wind 
 carried away the strap of the forc-top-sail sheet-block^ 
 the stay-sail' sheets and haulyards gave way, and the. 
 forc-top-mast jstay-sail split. As the gale was still en- 
 creasing, and their present situation inconvenient for 
 repairing these damages, they immediately steered for 
 Anchor Island Harbour, which was leeward of them, 
 . and running in by thie western entrance, anchored at 
 tha mouth of the cove, in 26* fathoms soft muddy bot- 
 tom, and after veering to half a cable, their stern was 
 in 13 fathoms water, about 40 yards from the island 
 that lies at the bottom of the cove. The ship was stea- 
 died by hawsers from the bows to the points of the 
 cove, and from the quarters to the trees on each side. 
 During the night, the galoi increased, and it was found 
 expedient to strike the lower yards and top galluin 
 masts. 
 
 Anxious about the Cl)atham, Capt. Vancouver rowed" 
 over to the Petrel Islands, on the 4th, in the forenoon, 
 and by walking across the land, had the satisfaction of 
 seeing her ride in perfect security; but being directly to 
 windward, and the gale still encrcasing, Lieutenant 
 Broughton was unable to get on board : they therefore 
 returned to the Discovery, when not being able to veer 
 more cable, or allow the ship to drive without her being 
 on the rocks astern (of which they were still apprehen- 
 sive,) they struck the top-masts, and on account of the 
 continued violence of the gale from the N. W. the small 
 bower anchor was dropped under foot. I'he wind mo- 
 .«*ivw«i C 2 derated 
 
'Inl 
 
 ranom^r'. Voyage ofDium,ry 
 
 I ' 
 
 «ere obliged to lower Ihe ,o„ "it? *."°™' ">« "'^y 
 cap. and (o set their v„j '^ ?"* '''°*<' 'lonn to the 
 «»'f aft on thVdecfc" ^ i,' f"'' '"P-g-'l-n.-masts fore 
 attended with violent .'ainfL^* '""*« hurricane 
 -nd about nine in cons' VZ "? «^'''='' unti/ eigh' 
 'li-P began to roll e^eS" "f" '""""gu^f. .he' 
 «'th bghtning a„d ,h,X ' nd t "T ""^'-^ed 
 came more tolerable, Lieutenant R "?"'" """> he- 
 opportunity of rc,« ring to ?he cfft""' '"^'"^ "'» 
 I'TPy to find that she La. i ^''a'ham, and was 
 Perfectly safe. He ■ n^tdfateK-" °V '^'I ^<^-y'toZ^ 
 ported into Facile Hartu f L^I n''''*' *"«''' «•■<' 
 heen now completely dismasted r ^'^'^"'"y having, 
 notwithstanding his orerinm,^ ? ' .'^''Pta"' Vancouver 
 "> the same place fCdTe^'!!!'"'" ^"« '" h'^™ gona 
 >^nt situation^ and rabotZ LT *1 '''*'•' *■» P~" 
 P "rs, without further delav H '''' ■ "^ccssary rc- 
 "kores, all their wants were r™ • "P?''*' ''™'n theso , 
 P-^l ties were immedfatdv emoln "'^"^ ^ '""'"'''• ^ 
 »«■'». rigging, &e. fuS ^"P^^^ f" r^'^"''"S fhe 
 spars, and.other essential duries r„ "^'' '"»'^' fo"" 
 •lispatched in a small boat for tl ■"" ""> "«« daily 
 
 Broughtfn aid' 'larSr't", J^" "^'^ ' ^'^'-'^ 
 «ent in two boate, on an exn.r!l ''■'■' *'"' Sentlomen. 
 hayandtoexplo're,ifposs1brX/'" ">« »P»cious 
 northern arm, called bv'^Sl*' r l'"'?'' P""^ "^^ 'ha 
 W..at. being theonly^rthc L^"!,^;,N'"""'>'">ow^ 
 "■"e. They found the arm i„ . vV"T°''S'''>' ««- 
 places Apparent Islands Lk'"!^'' »'"" navigator 
 branches, leaving ,w",*'. '^ '^ '''^Wed into tva 
 ■-in land, by f v J^ t'h'.Cr''*' •*'"'»'l 'o 'L 
 wountams: Lieuteiunt Brol|!i!"^\"*"<'»' "dge of 
 "n branch, which hT^bunS wf„ ? ""'^'oo* «« soiiih- 
 -% N. K by E. ahoSa'a^-'^f-l^.- 
 
 about 
 
 /■ 
 
To the North Pacific Oceauy ^c. 
 
 17 
 
 ? morning, 
 that they 
 ^a to the 
 f^Jasts fore 
 lurricane, 
 ntil* eighty 
 gust, the 
 
 oncJuded 
 til en he 
 ^2ed this. ' 
 and was 
 ystorm^ 
 SK and 
 ^ having. 
 Jcouver, 
 vfi gone 
 hia pre- 
 a^r re- 
 ' these s 
 d, and 
 
 >^r fO|!> 
 
 p daily 
 isiiiiig^ 
 
 cnauA 
 
 ^men, 
 
 cious 
 
 ( tha 
 
 nonai 
 
 exa-^ 
 
 two. 
 the 
 
 of 
 ith- 
 
 •op, 
 • K.. 
 out 
 
 /" 
 
 
 
 l.p 
 
 aa'-' 
 
 about half a league. The northern branch, Captain 
 Vancouver found to run nearly straight, about N. E. 
 for five miles, then turning round to the northward^ 
 for half a league further, and ending in a small Cove^ 
 vvith'vcry shallow water in a north western direction. To 
 the heads of these arms. Captain Vancouver gave the 
 name of Somebody knows What, in answer to* 
 Captain Cook's name of their entrance. They returned 
 on Tuesday afternoon, the 15th, having had very plea- 
 sant weather, during their excursion, but very mucb 
 disappointed in not meeting with any traces, or circum- 
 stances, that might lead to a discovery of the present 
 resort of the natives, who formerly resided here : the 
 oflicers of the Chatham^ had~met with one or two* 
 wretched huts in the neighbourhood ^of Facile Harbour,. 
 but which had no appearance of having been lately 
 inhabited. 
 
 On the 17th, they took a survey of Anchor Island 
 Harbour, which seemed to be a convenient retreat for 
 Vessels, which accident might prevent from getting 
 into Facile Plarbour. There, are two entrances, one: 
 to the north of the Petrel Islands, which is a fair and 
 clear channel, though of great depth, and the other to 
 the southward, which could only be preferred to Facile 
 Harbour, on account of a strong northerly wind: in. 
 in such case, the S. W. point of large Petrel Island^ 
 should be kept close on board, in order to weather the 
 rock that appears above water, in the middle of the 
 harbour, and to avoid a sunken one, of which there is 
 no indication, and on which there is no greater depth, 
 than 12 feet at low water. 
 
 Between this sunken rock and the pornt, from off 
 vhich it lies about three quarters of a cable's length, 
 and nearly in the direction to what Captain Vancpuver 
 has called Entry Island, are uS fathoms. Keeping, 
 the visible rock in the harbour in a line with what our 
 navigator has called North Entry Island, will be 
 sufficient direction for avoiding the sunken rock. 
 
 C 3 
 
 The 
 
 .«ia*f 
 
w < 
 
 ■.a.t,a-W»^ge*»''»* • 
 
 
 
 : • 
 
 18 
 
 .1 . »>r I 
 
 Vancomer's Voyage of Discovery 
 
 The business of the Discovery having been nearly 
 coraplcted, she sailed out of the cove on the morning of 
 the 18th, with fine weather, and a gentle breeze from 
 S. S. E. The Chatham not being yet ready for sea, 
 Captain Vancouver wished to place the ship a-brcast of 
 Facile Harbour, but on account of the failure of the 
 breei:e, and the tide setting then towards the islands 
 that lie from it, he was obliged to anchor sooner than 
 he intended, in 38 fathoms soft bottom. 
 
 On the 19th, thc^Chatham being ready for her depar- 
 ture, stood out into the roadstead, by the name of 
 Temt^I^t Island, on accoiint of a storm which at- 
 tended her riding out, and which continuing, obliged 
 J.cr to return into Facile Harbour. 
 
 On the 20th, there was a fresh breeze from the S. W. 
 with a very heavy swell, and apprehensive of some vio- 
 lence from that wind, the Discovery weighed, and ran 
 into Facile Harbour, and anchored in 38 fathoms, soft 
 bottom, near the Chatham. The weather continued 
 unfavourable till the 22d, when, , towards noon, 9.' 
 ftrceze springing up from the N. W. both vessels sailed 
 out of Duskey Bay. Though this \vas Captain Vancou- 
 ver's fifth Voyage to New Zealand, and its neighbour* 
 bood, he never before contended with so violent a tem- 
 pest and such boisterous weather. As they encreased 
 their distance from the land, the N. W. wind encreased 
 also ; and in subsequent gales the Discovery lost sight of 
 the Chatham. Matavia Bay in Otaheite, was the next 
 xendezvous, and, therefore. Captain Vancouver, order- 
 ed Lieutenant Broughton to make the best of his way 
 to that port. The Discovery steered S. S. E. and to 
 their great astonishment, about 11 o'clock, on the 24th, 
 they discovered land, which they passed at the distance 
 of two or three leagues; the sea breaking \x\nm its 
 shores with great violence ; and discovered it to be com- 
 J)osed of a cluster of seven craggy islands or rocks, as 
 they appeared, perfectly stcril, extending about six miles, 
 in a direction N. 71 li. aftU S. 70 W. The northern- 
 
 nio:»«t, 
 
'^n nearly 
 norning of 
 <^ezc from 
 y for sea, 
 -breast of 
 trc of the 
 
 '*^ islands 
 'Her than 
 
 ^r Wepar- 
 lame of 
 'hkh at- ' 
 obliged 
 
 he S. ^y, 
 ^nie vio- 
 
 md ran 
 ^ns, soft 
 Ontimied 
 foon, a '' 
 Js saiJed 
 ^ancou- 
 ?hbour» 
 
 a tem- 
 creased 
 -reased 
 iightof 
 e next 
 oidcr- 
 s way 
 nd to 
 24fh, . 
 taricc 
 •« its 
 com- 
 s, as 
 
 I 
 
 / ■ 
 
 
 To /Ae ^orfA Pacjtfc Ot<?fl«,. SfC, Ip 
 
 most, which was the largest, was supposed to be eqnai 
 in extent to all the rest. From the South cape, they 
 bear S. 40 W. 19 leagues, and from the southermost 
 part of the traps, S. 62} W. 20 leagues distant. Out 
 navigator gave them the name of The Snares, on ac- 
 count of their dangerous situation, and ihe likeUliood of 
 their being fatal to unguarded mariners, during th© 
 boisterous weather, which prevails in their vicinity. 
 
 On the 25th, at day-light, they hauled to the N. E, 
 and the observed latitude at noon was 48° 18' long, 
 169° 3B'. 
 
 The Discovery haid been very unfortunate in their 
 sheep. Out of 30,- taken on board at Portsmouth, only 
 two came to table ; the rest having died before they 
 reached the equator, and the last of which was this day 
 thrown overboard. 'They were equally unfortunate in 
 the like number of wethers received at the Cape ; the 
 major number of which were intended as presents to 
 their friends, in the South Sea Islands. 
 
 From the 8th of December to the 21st, the weather 
 was very variable : it then became pleasant ; and they 
 proceeded northward, being on the 2'id. by day-light, 
 in sight of land, bearing by compass, N. E. } N. It 
 appeared at first like three small high Islands. At three 
 in the afternoon, they were within about a league of 
 thp shore, but no bottom could be gained at 180 fa- 
 thoms. They were visited by several canoes, who 
 could not be induced to come on board, but seemed 
 very solicitous that they should accept their invitations 
 %o land : for which purpose, they bore away, but soon 
 again brought to on perceiving two or three other ca- 
 noes making for the ship. Four men in one of these, 
 approached near enough to accept of some presents, 
 with which they seemed highly delighted. Ojie of these 
 natives, after much importunity and assurance of friend- 
 ship ventured on board, but during his stay, evinced 
 much agitation, mingled with admiration ; however, on 
 his return he commuuitated to his countrymen, the 
 V • ^ " . • - kind 
 
 A 
 
maww 
 
 ;i 
 
 20 
 
 Vancouve/s Voyage of Discovery 
 
 i ' 
 
 11 
 
 1 ! 
 
 ! 
 
 ' 1 « 
 
 ! K 
 
 k'nu\ reception he had met with, and they had shortly a$ 
 many visitors as they could conveniently entertain, 
 'i'iiey seemed much i)lcased with beads, looking glasses, 
 &c. but particularly iron, the value of which they were 
 fully acquainted with. They were completely unarmed, 
 except a few spears and a club or t\' o, which were only 
 in one or two of the canoes, and two or t' ree indiffer- 
 ent slings for stones, v '.th which they willingly parted. 
 Their answers to all enquiries were very unsatisfactory ; 
 according to the imperfect information now obtained, 
 the name of the Island was supposed to be Op arc, 
 (and therefore fof the present so called) and that of 
 their chief Horie. 
 
 Captain Vancouver not chosing to lose the advantage 
 of a tine southwardly wind, did not look for anchorage 
 at Oparo, which was an Island of little extent : they ac- 
 cordingly proceeded N. N. W. under all the sail they 
 could spread, and on the 25lh were in the vicinity of 
 Duke of Gloucester's Islands. On the evening of the 
 next day, the wind veered in the N. E. and was attended 
 Mith very heavy squalls and rain. The next morning, 
 thoy had view of JNIatavai or Osnaburgh Island, and im- 
 mediately "shaped their course for Otaheite. On the 
 30th, with a gentle breeze from the N. E. they stood for 
 Matavai, and about 8 o'clock, a canoe came along side 
 with two pigs and some vegetables, a present from a sister 
 of Otoo, residing in that part of the Island, of which 
 they were then abreast. The natives said that they had 
 expected, and were looking for them two days, hav- 
 ing been apprised of their coming by an English vessel, 
 which Captain Vancouver concluded to be the Chatham^ 
 that had arrived at Otaheite before the Discovery. A- 
 visit from Lieutenant Bioughton confirmed this pleasing 
 intelligence, and he brought them a seasonable supply 
 of this fertile country's excellent productions. About 
 10 o'clock the Discovery anchored in Matuvai Bay. 
 
 During this separation, Lieutenant Broiighton had 
 
 encountered much with the weather, the Chatham was 
 
 . . '. . ' constjmtly 
 
.J 
 
 To the North Pacific Ocean, ^c^ 
 
 n 
 
 constantly under water. About two in the afternoon 
 ef the 23cl, they discovered land from the Deck, ap- 
 pearing like a high island, bearing, by compass, S. S. E^ 
 h or 4 leagues distant, and about an hour afterwards, 
 more land, lying to the southward; they endeavoured 
 to weather thiu land, which was detached from tha 
 former, but found it impracticable Jind therefore bore 
 up for a passage, between the high fcland and th© 
 detacJied lanrl, which' was found to be composed of 
 a cluster of small Islets or rocks, five in number, and 
 some wore a pyramidical form. This Island presented a ' 
 barren appearance, and was supposed to be uninhabited. 
 In honor of Captain Knight, o£ the 'navy. Lieutenant 
 Broughton gave it the name of Knight's IsLitiNOS. 
 
 [These IslaiKls were those which the Discovery h^d 
 passed a few hours before, and to which Captain Van* 
 couver gave the nam© ©f Tke Snares. Ji 
 
 Ivarly in the morning of the 2<)th, they discovered 
 low land, bearing by compass N. E. to E. N. E. when 
 they were in 40 fathoms wat«r. About 4 o'clock, they 
 had 38 fathoms, sand and broken shelly bottom, when 
 th« N. W. point of this land (which is low) bore, by 
 compass, S. 7 K. about J leagues distant to which 
 Lieutenant Broughton gave the mime of Point Alli-^ 
 SON, after the man who first descried it, from the fore- 
 yard; and a remarkable rugged rockcy mountain was 
 distinguished by the name of Mount Pattehsou 
 S. 60 E. A sugar loaf hill S. 84 E. and the extreme 
 point to the eastward, wiiich formed an, abrupt Cape, 
 N. 75 E. Two Islands N. 3 E. to N. 5 E. 2 or 3 
 leagues distant. This Cape, which foi'ms a conspicuous 
 heiid-land, and is the northernmost part of the Island, 
 was called CAPiiYouN&, in lat. 43° 48', long. 183° 2'; 
 the two Islands, composed entirely of rocks and much 
 fieqicntcd by birds of didierent Kinds, were called The . 
 Two Sisters, as they lie very near each other. They 
 stqeretl from Cape \'oung E. by N. and passed soma 
 high laud. After sailing about 10 leagues, they cama 
 
 abreast 
 
32 
 
 Vancouver's Voi/age of Discovery 
 
 
 
 h 
 
 ft 
 
 1 
 
 / ■ 
 
 1 ^' 
 
 » 
 
 ' 1 
 
 
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 abreast of a small sandy bay, and they perceived with' 
 their glasses some people hauling up a canoe, and several* 
 others behind the rocks in the bay, which induced' 
 Lieutenant Broughton to work into the bay, and they 
 came to an anchor about a mile from the shore in 20 
 fathoms water, sandy and rocky bottom: the eastern 
 point from their anchorage proved to be the termination 
 of the Island, to which was given the name of Point 
 Mannings, bearing, by compass, N» 78 K- Cape 
 Young W. 12 S. the larboard point of the bay S. E, ^ ' •; 
 Lieutenant Broughton, accompanied by the master 
 and one of the mates, proceeded in the cutter towards 
 the shore, and landed upon the^ rocks on the starboard 
 shore, where they first perceived the natives, who at 
 this time, were on the opposite side, but on seeing them 
 examining their canoes, hastily ran round the" bay^ 
 whereupon Lieutenant Broughton and his party retired 
 to the boat, to wait their arrival. On approaching, they 
 made a considerable noise, and having soon joined our 
 navigators, began to converse in dumb show, but 
 without mutual CQmprehension. Lieutenant Broughton 
 gave them presents, which were received with eager- 
 ness and delight, but they made no return. As they 
 appeared solicitous, that they should land, the mate 
 left his arms in the boat, and went on shore, but only 
 two or three attended him, the rest, amounting to 
 about 40, remaining with the boat. On the mate's 
 return, Lieutenant Broughton and the master, agreeable 
 to their seem..;g entreaties to visit their habitations^ 
 were inclined to comply, but finding that they would 
 give nothing in return for their presents, and that they 
 were armed with long sprsars, they deemed it imprudent 
 to venture among them ; especially as the situation was 
 unfavourable in case of any hostile intention, ll.lving 
 taken possession of the island with the usual formalities, 
 it was distiuifuished by the name of Chatham 
 Island, in honor of the Earl of Chatham. With 
 rcs^jctt to the natn es, the men were of u middling size ; 
 
 ■ some 
 
To the North Pac^c Oceatif <§c. 
 
 23 
 
 'od with 
 I several'* 
 induced' 
 nd they 
 ■e in 20 
 eastern 
 rination 
 Point 
 '^. Cane 
 E. . 
 
 master 
 towards 
 irboard 
 
 who at 
 g them 
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 retired 
 g, they 
 led our 
 V, but 
 ugh ton 
 eagcr- 
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 c matt? 
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 '"g to 
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 eeabie 
 
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 would 
 
 t they 
 
 udciit 
 
 ti was 
 
 aving 
 
 lities, 
 
 HAM 
 
 Witli 
 
 isize; 
 
 souio 
 
 soiim stoutly made, well limbed and fleshy; their hair, 
 both of the head and beard, was black, and by some , 
 worii long. The young men had it tied up in a knot 
 on tlic crown of their heads, intermixed with black and 
 white feathers: Their leatures were plain, their teeth 
 in general bad, and their complexion and general colour 
 dark brown. I'hey had no marks on their skin, and 
 their dress was either a seal or bear bkin tied with fni- 
 ncl, inside outwards, round their necks, which fall be- 
 low their hips; or mats neoitly made tied in the same 
 manner, which covered their backs and shoulders. 
 Some were naked, except having a well woven mat 
 fastened at each end by a string, round their waists. 
 Some also had their beards plucked out. As they saw 
 no habitations, this part of the island was supposed to 
 be a temporary residence. At one time, before the 
 boat could be got in, they evinced their hostile inchna- 
 tion, and Lieutenant Broughton, to avoid being knocked 
 ciow n, was obliged to lire one barrel, loaded with small 
 shot, more with the view of intimidating than hurting, 
 and with the hope of being sulfered to embark without 
 further molestation ; but they still continued their at- 
 tack ; and Mr. Johnstone, the master, who had received 
 a violent stroke upon his musket, with an unweildy club, 
 was obliged to fnc on the blow being again attempted, 
 - A marine and seamen under similar circumstances, 
 fired their pieces : and the gentleman who had charge 
 of the boat, seeing them thus -situated, instantly fired, 
 upon which the natives fled; one of whom had been 
 killed, a ball huving,broken his arm and passed throucii 
 his heart. On their return to tlic vessel, thev iiot un- 
 der weigh, with a fresh gale at S. VV. On the 26'th, 
 about 8 o'clock, they rounded tiie Dolphin Bank, in 
 2j: fathoms water, iind worked up into Matavai Bay. 
 At nine they anchored in 8 fathoms black muddy bot- 
 tom, aud were rather disappointed in not finding the 
 Discovery, which hud the advantage of the Ciuitliam 
 iu her sailing. 
 
 On 
 

 Ul^ ill' 
 
 W' ' 
 
 !l I 
 
 ;l 
 
 \i 
 
 zi 
 
 Vancouver*s Voyage t)f Discovery 
 
 On the morning of the 28th, Lieutenant BroiightoH 
 had received a present of two hogs and some fruit from 
 ^young Otoo. The elder Otoo (now stiled Pomurrey) 
 was at Eimeo. The succeeding morning, he received 
 another handsome present of hogs and fruit, from young 
 ^too from Oparai ; and the weather being somewhat 
 more temperate in the evening, they landed at the back 
 of Point Venus, where they were received by the na- 
 tives with great cordiality and cheerfulness, and were 
 also provided with as much provision as they could 
 possibly use, on very reasonable terms. 
 
 Captain Vancouver had the mortification to find, on 
 enquiry, that most of the friends he had left at Gtalreitc 
 in the Year 1777» hoth Tiiaie and female, were now 
 dead. Otoo, with his father, tjrothers and sisters, 
 Potatow and his family, were the only chiefs of his 
 old acquaintance that were at present living. Otoo had 
 retired to his newly acquired possession, Eimeo or 
 Morea, while his eldest son was left governor of Ota- 
 heite, and all the neighbouring islands. As soon as the 
 Discovery was secured. Captain Vancouver, Lieute- 
 nant Broughton and Rlr. Whedley, went to fix on an 
 eligible spot for their tents, and afterwards to pay their 
 respects to his Otaheitean Majesty, who by a messenger, 
 was informed of their arrival and intended visit. The 
 messenger returned with a pig and a plaintain leaf, as 
 a peace-offering to the Captain, accompanied with a 
 speech of congratiriation, and ofiers of whatever refresh- 
 ments the country afforded. On the interview taking 
 place they found Otoo to be a boy of about <) or 10 
 years of age. He was carried on the shoulder* of a man, 
 and was clothed in a piece of English red cloth, with 
 ornaments of pigeon's feathers hanging over his shoul- 
 ders. 
 
 The present, which our navigators brought, though 
 it excited much admiracion among the by-standers, 
 was rejected by the young monarch with |tern and cool 
 inditfei'cnce j nor was it presented till u certain previous 
 
 ceremony 
 
To the North Bacific Oceaiif S^-c, 
 
 25 
 
 find, on 
 )talreite 
 !re novr 
 sisters, 
 of his 
 too had 
 meo or 
 of Ota- 
 n as the 
 Lieute- 
 c on an 
 ly their 
 'Senger, 
 • Tlje 
 !eaf, as 
 with a 
 cfresh- 
 taking 
 » or 10 
 a man, 
 > with 
 shoul* 
 
 hough 
 nders, 
 i cooi 
 Qvious 
 mony 
 
 ceremony was performed, by which a ratification of 
 peace and mutual friendship was acknowledged on botii 
 sides; after which, his majesty's countenance was 
 immediatoly altered ; he shook hands with our naviga- 
 tors, and received them with much cheerfulness and 
 cordiality. He requested Captain Vancouver to send a 
 boat to Morea for his father, which was immediately 
 promised, and accordingly Mr. Mudgo and Mr. Men- 
 zies were sent for Pomurrcy, on Saturday the'31st, with 
 whom Uiey returned Jan. 2, \7^2, Previous "to his 
 coming on board, he was saluted with four guns iiora 
 each vessel, which gave him infinite pleasure. He was 
 accompanied by Rlahow, the reigning prince, under 
 Otoo, of Moreft, who was evidently in a deep and 
 'lapid decline, and was hoisted on board in a chair, and 
 supported by six people down to the cabin, where as 
 he was 4ncapable of either sitting or standing, a bed 
 Avas prepared for him on the lockers. He pcrfecfly 
 recollected the captain. His two wives and youngest 
 sister (the former, having been the sisters and the latter 
 -the wife of Mahow) arrived in the afternoon. Thcj 
 ladies were accompanied by his two brothers, and 
 several chiefs, each presenting the captain with so 
 many hogs, fowls, &c. that there was scarcely room 
 for the provision. These present^ met with an a('.c- 
 ^|uate return, «...,.. 
 
 .^ 'i'he party at dinner were so numerous, that thft 
 cabin was exceedingly crowded, and Pomurrey's wivcr* 
 and Mahow's wife were permitted to sit at table, an 
 indulgence very uncommon, and as supposed, granted 
 to no otlier lady of the island. In the course of dinner 
 ^andaftor wards, Poraurrey drank a bottle of brandy 
 without mixing any of it, and became so intoxicated,, 
 that four strong men were obliged to liold him down and. 
 perform the ofiice ot Jloowc (i. e. stj;uee>ie the flesh of his 
 limbs and body) after which he slept about an hour 
 and then aroije, seemingly quifo icfic-hcd and soIit. 
 ^^^ D The 
 
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26 
 
 Vancmmtr^s Voyage of Discovery 
 
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 The royal guest? -who intended to make the ship their 
 place of residence until they returned to Morea, 
 became, on account of their numerous attendants, very 
 inconvenient; however the Captain by some little 
 address, prevented their stay on board, and they took 
 up their abode in a wretched house, brought for that 
 purpose to~point Venys. The orew' were now continu- 
 ally employed about their rigging, sails, &c; and 
 Pomurrcy seeing a piece of timber sawed into a plank, 
 which greatly attracted hfs notice, solicited the captain 
 to allow the carpenter to make him a large chest, and 
 after much entreaty his wish was complied with, tliough 
 the artificer could ill be spared. 
 
 The weather became exceedingly boisterous, and the 
 sea broke with so great violence on shore, that the 
 place where the royal party look up their abode, was 
 insulated; two seas broke on board the Discovery, 
 although iji 8 fathoms water, which nr^irly lillcd the 
 waist. The next morning (Friday 6) it became calm, 
 and the weather appeared more settled. 
 
 On the 7th Captain Vancouver paid a visit to 
 ..Pomurrey's father, now called Taow: he was accompa- 
 nied by Pomurrey, and his two next brothers, and the 
 meeting between these three sons and their venerable 
 aged father was exceedingly affecting. Presents on 
 this occasion were mutually given. Pomurrey then 
 paid Lieutenant Broughton a visit on board the Chat- 
 ham, where presents were likewise exchanged, Otoo's 
 approach having been announced, a scene took place 
 very ditlbrent from the meeting between the three sons 
 and their father. On this occassion the grand father, 
 stripped to tlie waist, and whose hmbs wcjc tottering 
 with the decline of life, paid homage to the grandson, 
 who beheld with calm indifference his humiliating situ- 
 ation. This conduct however is not to be imputed to 
 the want of feeling and alFection, but to the prevailing 
 oiifjuottc of sovereignty in this, islaiidi - . -. 
 
 On 
 
To the North Pacific Oceatiy J^c, 
 
 «7 
 
 'P thoir 
 iMorea, 
 
 ts, very 
 le Jittle 
 'y took 
 for that 
 [ontinu- 
 
 ; and 
 
 plank, 
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 St, and 
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 md the 
 »at the 
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 sit to 
 ompa- 
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 Chat- 
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 phicc 
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 '■■■II- 
 
 On the 8th the captain had a visit from Poatatow^ 
 his old acquaintancci now called Hidica, and his wife 
 and sister. -^ti * ; ..w-:>. 
 
 On the 14th, a message from Pomurrey informed the 
 captain of the death of Mahow, in consequence of 
 which, their intended return to Morea was postponed. 
 The reduced state which he had been in, occasioned 
 little regret on his dissolution. Several fires were now 
 observed all over the district of Oparre. These were 
 ceremonies of a religious nature on the demise of 
 Madiow, and of which the mourners, no d^abt, took 
 advantage to cook sufficient provisions for the time of 
 interdiction, which immediately tfullowed, for after- 
 wards, no communication was permitted between the 
 inhabitants of Oparre and those of the other parts of 
 the island : not a canoe was sufieced to move along the 
 shores, nor was a. fire ullow:ed to be made, which pro- 
 duced a degree of solemnity, very expressive of the 
 concern frit on the death of this distingHrshed perso- 
 nage. Captaia Vancouver sent a message to Poraurrey., 
 that he and hi& friends would attend the funeral cere- 
 mony, and tliey were informed, Poraurrey was gone to 
 the Moraij but would have no objection to their being 
 present. They saw the queen's mother Fier-re-tc, 
 and the widow of the deceased, sitting in tears» and 
 with enthusiastic affliction^ wounding their heads with 
 a shark's teeth, which they had provided for the pur- 
 pose the preceding evening. The wtdo%v had a small 
 spot shaved on the crown of her head, which was 
 bloody with the effects of her despair. Five priests 
 were seated before Pomurrey, chanting a prayer with 
 their faces towards Otoo, who sat on a man's lap. 
 About ten yards from him a bundle, of xdeth was held, 
 which was supposed to contain the Eatooa (i. e. their 
 deities). The body of Mahow, wrapped in English red 
 cloth, was deposited under an awning in a canoe, whose 
 bow was drawn up a little way on the beach, near the 
 Moral f and was attended by one man only on her stern, 
 
 1> 2* \»p 
 
28 
 
 Vancoute/s Voyage of Discovery 
 
 T> 
 
 \\\i to his middle in water, to prevent her driving fixm* 
 tl»e spot. The priests continued chanting their prayers^ 
 trequently exalting their voices, and ending in a very 
 shrill tone. They then proceeded westward along the 
 shore, followed by the canoe, in which was the corpse, 
 to the mouth of the rivulet : and having entered the 
 hrook, proceeded towards another Morai at the foot 
 of the mountains, where the further ceremonies re- 
 <{uired such privacy, that the gentlemen, notwithstand- 
 ing their entreaties, could not be admitted; they there- 
 fore extended their excursion a few miles westward, to 
 Poniurrcy's residence, where they were entertained 
 ^vilh ii keaiay performed by a company of very young 
 girls, in the wanton fashion of the country. In the 
 course of this dajice, an hctor made his appearance 
 among the ladies, and entertained the native audience 
 in a very obscene, though ludicrous manner. »..: 
 
 On the 17th two men had been detected in stenlirtg 
 a hat from on board the Discovery, and Captain Van-- 
 couver judged it expedient to punish the oftendcrs, as 
 fcveral other petty thefts had been committed ; ac^ 
 cordingty their heads were shaved, and a slight manual 
 correction bestowed upon tbem in the presence of 
 their chiefs and countrymen. This examfJc, however, 
 did not deter others from this vicious practice. A bag^ 
 containing a large quantity of linen, belon&^ng to lieu- 
 tenant Broughton, was artfully taken out of the marquee; 
 several shirts were likewise lost. To prevent other de- 
 jiredatiop" additional centinals were posted, and as im- 
 mediate punishment was deemed the most likely to re- 
 medy this evil, orders were issued to shoot any person 
 A\ho should be detected in the act of stealing ; at the 
 sfime t.ine great circumspection was to be observed, 
 and no one was to fire (on any account) without the 
 presence of an officer. Notwithstanding the Captain 
 liad recourse to some rigorous measures the linen was 
 jiever recovered. -. ' • - "; 
 
 ,1'. 
 
To t^c N'orth P^acijic Ocean, 8fC. 
 
 29 
 
 bag. 
 
 On the 24tli, they purposed to Tisit the Sandwich 
 Islands, and directed their course to tlic northward. 
 In the afternoon^ they wcfc witliin sight of Titeroa. 
 They had a visit from some of the inhabitants of this 
 Island, who brought a few fowls, fish and cqcoa nuts, 
 to barter. Their progress was very slow. On the 29th. 
 of February, they stood to the N. E. E. which course 
 brought them in sight of Owhyhee, on the 1st of 
 March, by day-light, bearing by compass, from north, 
 to N. by E. about 24 leagues distant. About midnight 
 they passed to the westward of the south point of 
 O'vhyhee; and as they sailed past the west coast of 
 this Island kept close in shore, for the purpose of pro^* 
 curing some provisions and refreshments. Several 
 canoes came off th« next day, with a supply of pigs and 
 vegetables ;. amongst the latter were some very excellent 
 ■CViiter melons : but the natives, who seemed very indif- 
 ferent about trading with them, were very exorbitant 
 in tlicir demands. On Sfaturday the 3d, they Ijrought 
 to, for the purpose of trading with other canoes, who 
 came' in sight, and were this day visited by Trenna, 
 who since his return from China, had resided on this 
 island, where many severe conflicts had taken place, in 
 which he was victorious, and shared the government of 
 the island with another chief, of the name of Tama- 
 inaaha. This distinguished chief, understanding that 
 ournavigators were going directly to the Leeward lands, 
 requested permission to accompany them with their 
 wives, and retinue, which was accordingly granted. 
 His attentive admiration was excited by every transac- 
 tion on board, and he was several times on deck during 
 the night, to ascertain Che number of men who were 
 employed. 
 
 In the evening of the 4th, they were greatly sur- 
 prized on being hailed from a large canoe, which was 
 meeting them in broken English : "demanding who they 
 were, and civilly requesting to be admitted on board ; 
 'permission being givcti, the person who thus hailed 
 
 D 3 them, 
 
 ^ 
 
i 
 
 aa 
 
 Vancouver's Voyage of Discovery 
 
 '); 
 
 ^1 ■!! 
 
 ■ I 
 
 ■f.' I 
 
 lii 
 
 Ihc-m, proved to be a young man named Tarehood^ a 
 Juitive of Attowai, who had ^accompanied Mr. Ingram, 
 
 .who commanded an American ship, laden with furs, 
 from N. W. America, bound to Boston in New Eng- 
 land, by the way of China. Tarehood, who preferred 
 the name of Jack, had been with Mr. Ingram in North 
 America, about seven months ; at first in the capacity 
 of servant, but afterwards as interpreter, which office 
 he filled with ability. He had returned in a brig with 
 him some months before. Being solicitous to accom- 
 pany our Navigators, and the Captain finding him an 
 
 1 active shrewd fellow, and thinking he might be of 
 service, accepted of his services, to which Tianna 
 consented. 
 
 l^arly in the morning of the 6th they were well in 
 with the island Tahoorowa, which at noon bore by 
 compass, S. 88 £. The Chatham's signal was made ta 
 denote the Discovery's situation in bearing up alo;ig 
 the south side of the island; but as neither this nor 
 previous signals were acknowledged,, it was concluded 
 that she remained becalmed under the high land of 
 Owhyhee, while the Discovery had benefited by a very 
 fine gale owing to her being a little further advanced ; 
 a long separation was not apprehended as Woahoo was 
 the next appointed rendezvous. During the afternoon 
 they proceeded to. the north, along the west side of 
 Ranai, and about midnight were in §ight of Woaboo, 
 bearing by c6mpass, W. 6 or 7 miles distant. About 
 10 o'clock on the 7th, they anchored in 10 fathoms, 
 the bottom with pieces of small coral. The easterli 
 shores of this island, like those of Rania, are chiefly 
 composed of barren rocks and high precipices, and 
 destitute of verdure. On the south-west part are two 
 remarkable promontories, which lie from each other, 
 S. 81 W. ,and N. 81 E. about 21 miles asunder. The 
 first or easternmost of these is formed of barren rock J" 
 clifl's, rising so suddenly from the sea that, to all ap- 
 pearance; vessels might bl^sh their sides in passing 
 
 - -^ them- 
 
To the North Pacific Oceans fft. 
 
 di 
 
 rajn. 
 
 tlicm, whence the land falls a little back and forms a 
 sliallow bay, in a northern direction, where the dif- 
 fcfent colours in the water indicated a rocky bottom : 
 on the beach the surf broke very louch, behind which 
 a legoon extended to some 'distance to the northward. 
 The situation which they occupied in this bay is called, 
 by the natives, Whyteete, and seemed as good as the 
 
 . generality of anchoring places in these islands. .They' 
 were visited by a few of the natives who were exceed- 
 ingly orderly and docile, though without a chief, or 
 any person of distinction, to controul them; but they 
 brought in their canoes a very sparing supply of lefresh- 
 ments. The musk and water melons, which were the 
 chief part, were exceedingly good. T^ere appeared 
 several large and regular villages on the shores, and 
 the surrounding country seemed well cultivated and 
 fertile. 
 
 Jack took care to represent our navigators to all his 
 
 ' countrymen in a very formidable light : he augmented 
 their numbers, and magnified their powers : in short, 
 
 . /lie impressed them with the idea of their being mighty 
 warriors, and rendered them so great in. the eyes of 
 the natives as to prevent the evil consequences of hos- 
 tility. 
 
 I'he carpenters had been employed in caulking the 
 quarter-deck, but before any other repairs could be 
 undertaken the captain thought proper to see if water 
 could be procured ; for this purpose, accompanied by 
 Mr. Mudge, Mr. Whedbcy, and attended by two armed 
 boats, and a guard of seven marines, he landed* 
 Their boats remained perfectly quiet on the beach, 
 and they were received by the natives in a very orderly 
 - manner. Two sturdy fellows, with large clubs, kept 
 the remainder at a proper distance, to whom the capo 
 tain made some presents, and on his enquiring for 
 water, -they directed him to some stagnant brackish 
 ponds near the beach, which were rejected as unfit. 
 
 - ile was then informed, that there was excellent water 
 
 in 
 
 
32 
 
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 i ; 
 
 
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 , 
 
 1 
 
 ■i : 
 
 
 1 
 
 
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 M ! 
 
 5 
 
 Vaficwctr^i Voyage ofDiscotcry 
 
 in abumlancc at some distance. As they all appeared' 
 pacific and friendly, he, and the rest of the gentlemen 
 accompanied them nortliwaxd, through the village, and 
 wore conducted to an exceedingly well made causeway, 
 about 1^ feet broad, with a ditch on each side. This 
 causeway led them near a mile from the beach, where 
 there was a rivulet five or six fcet deep. The water 
 was very good, but tlic road was so rugged, and thp^ 
 distance so great, that the casks could not be rolled 
 without some damage ; therefore the captain proposed 
 to the natives that if^ they would carry a quantity of 
 this water on board in gourds, they should be well re- 
 warded, and accordingly they promised him an ample 
 supply the next day. Having now an opportunity of 
 viewing the country, they found it in a hiH;h state of 
 cultivation, mostly under imm(ftliate crops of Taro, 
 and abounding with a variety of wild fowls, some of 
 which were shot and found very fine eating. The sides 
 of the hills, which were at some distance, appeared 
 jvjcky and barren, but the intermediate vallies had 
 a pleasing appearance, being all inhabited, and sur- 
 roimded with iai^e trees. ,^ ---> 
 
 On their return an entertainment of hogs, and some 
 vegetables had been prepared by order of their two 
 guides, who now earnestly pressed them to partake of 
 it ; but as it was past sun-set, they were obliged to 
 decline their hospitable invitation. Having presented 
 each of these kind natives suitable presents, they re- 
 turned on boar ', and towards midnight the Chatham 
 arrived and anchored a little to the westward of the 
 Discovery. She had been becalmed, and consequently 
 delayed, as Captain Vancouver i^ispected. 
 
 The quantity of water whieh the natives brought the 
 next day was so scanty that the captain gave up the 
 idea of obtaining here a sufficient supply, and resolved 
 to proceed immediately to Attowai ; accordingly they 
 weighed anchor, and steered to the westward. - The 
 Chatham being under the land becalmed, the Discovery 
 
 lost 
 
To the North Pacific Oceaiiy Spc, 
 
 '33 
 
 lost sight of her, and continued her course under all 
 sail, and to therr great surprise came within sight of 
 Attowai by half past four in the morning of the 9th. 
 I'hey bore away, along the south side for VVhymea Bay, 
 where about nine o'clock they anchored in 27 fathoms, 
 with a bottom of grey sand and mud. Towards noon 
 the Chatham arrived, but the wind shifting about pre- 
 vented her coming to anchor until sun-set, when she 
 moored a little to the westward of the Discovery. 
 They were visited by several of the natives who brought 
 them an ample supply, and were very submissive and 
 orderly. 
 
 Captain Vancouver, accompanied by Mr. Menzies, 
 in the yawl, ^and whom Lieutenant Russel followed 
 with the cutter and launch, proceeded to shore, and 
 were received by the natives with distant civility.' A 
 man (whose name was Rehooa,) understanding tliat 
 they purposed to remain there some days, undertook 
 to preserve good order, and caused two excellent 
 housps to ^e tatooed for their service. Certain of the 
 -natives, who had permission to come witiiin their lines, 
 were employed in filling and rolling the water casks to 
 and from the boat, for which they were rewarded with 
 a few beads and some sinall nails, and with which, t^ey 
 were highly gratified. .'; ,.- . ' • > "- • 
 
 U In this their first visit to the island Attowai, tlic fol- 
 lowing very remarkable circumstance greatly surprised 
 them. Our tiavigators had been previously told at 
 Woahoo, and likewise here, immediately on their 
 arrffal, that three Englishmen resided with tliese na- 
 tives, and on Saturday, March 10, they found this in- 
 formation to be true. One of them, a young man 
 about 17 years of age, whose name was Rowbottom, 
 came on bo^rd the Discovery, from a large double 
 canoe, and said he was of Derbyshire, that he had 
 sailed from Ehgland about five years since, in an India- 
 man to China, which ship he had quitted in order to 
 engage with some of the vessels in the fur trade carried 
 
 •5i>-. 
 
 .Hi 
 
 on, 
 
94 
 
 Vancouvet*9 Voyagt of Discovery 
 
 it f (5: ,1'! 
 
 H 
 
 (i 
 
 on between North America and China, and that he 
 had ever since been thus employed in the American 
 service. That himself, John Wiihams, a Welchman, 
 and James Coleman, an Irishman, had been left at 
 the island of Onehow, in their way to this island, 
 where they were to collect sandal wood and pearls for 
 their master, John Kcndrick, wi American, command- 
 ing the Lady Washington. This is the same vessel and 
 commander who first distributed medals in these and 
 the Society islands, with the name and description of 
 his ship, and of the principal owners; one of whi(;h 
 was brought to London by Lieutenant George Mor- 
 timer of the marines, the companion of Mr. Cox, in 
 his voyage in 1789, to the North- West Coast of 
 America. ^' '^^ .; ^_4i->... ,.>:,:> .-..}. y -.^-f ^^^t 
 
 Our navigators were warned by these their young 
 countrymen to keep the strictest, watch over the beha- 
 viour of the natives, though they thought the force of 
 the Discovery and the Chatham were too great for 
 them to atieiiipc any thing hostile : but as they had 
 lately seized an American, schooner, and had barbae 
 rously murdered the whole crew, exc' pt one man, 
 every thing was to be apprehended from their tteachcfy, 
 and their eagerness to get possession of iixo arms ; the 
 use of which, as well as a supply of them, by bartcjr 
 for furs, had been effected through the commercial 
 cupidity of the American commanders of trading 
 vessels ; and thi* conduct on their parts must be ac- 
 knowledged as highly censurable. 
 
 Coleman, the Irishman, whom they saw the next 
 day, made a singular appearance j having in most re** 
 spccts adopted the eustoms of the natives, for except- 
 ing the il/rtro, a kind of mantle round the waist, which 
 he wore with much loss decency than the generaUty of 
 the Indians, he was perfectly naked, and the colour of 
 his skin was a little whiter than the fairest of the na- 
 tives. The caplain ask'id him, what he had done with 
 his former cloaths ? to which he ansAcred with a snci^r, 
 
 that 
 
To the North Paci/ic Ocean , ^c. 
 
 31 
 
 he 
 Ticaii 
 nan, 
 ft at 
 and, 
 s for 
 and- 
 and 
 and 
 of 
 
 lor- 
 
 that they were hanging up' io a house for the admira- 
 tion of the natives ; and h cemcd greatly to exult in 
 having degenerated into a savage way of life : he was, 
 however, of such consequence amongst these people,, 
 that he was chosen to deliver a message from the 
 prince of Attowai to Captain Vancouver, to inform 
 him that he intended to pay him a visit on board the 
 Discovery, attended by a friend (liis companion), and 
 other chiefs, the following day, which accc-dingly took 
 place with groat ceremony, and to tlie entire satisfac- - 
 lion of both parties. The prince seemed to be about 
 12 years of ago ; his countenance bespoke affability and 
 rheaifulness, and his features bore infinitely more the 
 resemblance of an European, than of those which gene- 
 rally characterize these islandcis. His young friend, 
 who app(>ared to be about the same age, and whoso 
 name was Tipoone, was far surpassed by the prince ia 
 the quickness of comprciiension and ideas. They had 
 previously a visit from Enemoh, the agent, who re- 
 collected the captain, having seen him when he visited 
 Attowai with Captain Cook. 
 
 Notwithstanding the unfavourable accouipits which 
 our navigators had received of these natives, thv-y found 
 them m)t only courteous and iittentivc, hut remarkably 
 hon(?st : but possjbly thoy were in seme measure en- 
 dcbted for this good behaviour to the confidence that 
 the chiefs had reason to suppose was placed in their 
 integrity. Ilowbottom,and his comrades, had also used 
 every endeavour to impress on their minds, the most 
 favourable opinion of the English. These three resident 
 men, were highly regarded by the prince : their pei-sons 
 and property he had made sacred, by tlioir c<mstintly 
 tesiding with him, and by his making them his compa- 
 nions, in all his c'.iversioiis and his amusements ; but his 
 predilection to them was most of all conspicuous, in his 
 having assumed the title of King George ; not sufferin:;; 
 his domesticks 4o addreKs him by 'any other name, and 
 
 being 
 
36 
 
 Vancouver s Voyage of Discoxerif 
 
 i him 
 
 lii|:l! 
 
 
 being much displeased with our navigators, as well as 
 his countrymen, if they called him Tamooerc. 
 
 During their excursions, pur navigators found the 
 low country which stretches from the foot of the moun- 
 tains towards the sea, occupied •principally with the faro 
 plant, cultivated much in the same manner as at 
 Wahoa; interspersed with a few sugar canes of luxuri- 
 ant growth, and some sweet potatoes; the latter aro 
 planted on dry ground, and the former on the borders 
 and partitions of the taro grounds. Most of the cultivated 
 lands being considerably above the ^evel of the river, 
 made it very diflicult to account for their bcinu so uni- 
 formly well watered. Ihe Captain, one afternoon, ob- 
 served the i^ills to the eastward of the river to bo on 
 fire, from a considerable height, in particular direc- 
 tions, dowy ti)wards the water's edge, and knowing 
 that fires are ff;cnerally resorted to by these and other 
 rude nations rs the signal (or collecting the distant in- 
 habitants, whenever enterprise or scheme is meditated 
 to be carried into eft'cct, he became very uneasy. Tuo 
 reason given for this extensive conflagration by a party 
 of Indians on the shore, was the annojincing the arrival 
 of the prince, the regent, and other great chiefs. In 
 case of danger, the Captain took proper precautions, 
 and had the pleasure to find that his suspicions were ill- 
 founded. ^ 
 
 In the morning of the 14th, having procured an 
 auijtlc supply of water, the Discovery sailetl with a fine 
 northerly breeze for Onehow, in^ order, whilst the 
 decks of the Chatham were caulking, to take on board 
 such yams and other vegetables as they could obtain. 
 Here they anchored in l-i. fathoms water, ofl' the south 
 part of the Island, about three fourths of a mile from 
 the shore. On the I6'th, the Chatham's deck was 
 tinislu'il, a sufhciency of yams, &c. purchased, and 
 they proceeded together, about six in the evening, 
 towards the coast of America. The Captain, not 
 choosing to purchase, as oUicrs had unpardorably done, 
 
 his 
 
To the Korth Pacific Ocean^ 4'<^' 
 
 37 
 
 )1U? 
 
 
 Ills refreshments, with arms and ammunition, (for 
 %\ hich the natives not only discovered a great inclination, 
 but abundant skill in the managcmcnc of them) did not 
 procure such a stock as otherwise he might. 
 
 They took their departure from the Sandwich 
 Islands, Sunday morning, 18th March, steering to the 
 eastward or northward, as the wind veered, with plea- 
 sant weather, but with such a gentle breeze, that on the 
 7 th of April they had only reached the latitude of 35* 
 25', longitude 217® 24'; here they found themselves in 
 th. midst of immense multitudes of sea-blubber, of the 
 species of the Medusa Villillat so that the surface of the 
 ocean, as far as the eye could reach, was covered with 
 these animals (or rather insects) in such abundance, 
 that even a pea could hardly be dropped clear of them, 
 and they attended the ships over a space of seven 
 degrees of longitude. Mr. Menzies, the Surgeon of the 
 Discovery, and Ma\ James Johnstone, Master of the 
 Cliatham, spared no pains to inspect the formation of 
 these worms or caterpillars: "The largest of the blub- 
 bers did not exceed four inches in circumference, and 
 adhering; to them was found a, worm of a beautiful 
 blue colour, much resembling a caterpillar, about an 
 inch and a half long, thickest towards the head, forming 
 a three-sided figure, its back being the broadest; it? 
 belly or under part was provided with a festooned mem- 
 bra ncc, with which it attached itself to the medusa 
 T'Uifia. Along the ridge connecting the sides and ba<:k 
 f "0^1 ihe shoulders to the tail, on each side, are num- 
 - . r.o&. small fibres, about the eighth of an inch in 
 It f;^ ti ., like the downy hair of insects, but much more 
 ^ubstanUal; probably intended to assist the animal in its 
 progress through the water. — The blubbers are of an 
 oval form, quit« flat, measuring rfbout an inch and an 
 half the longest way ; thcii under-side is somewhat con- 
 cave; the edges, for near a quarter of an inch in witltli, 
 arc of a deep blue colour, changing iiiwardly to a pale 
 
 ii , green; 
 

 -J—-— ' • I >HW<". 
 
 518 
 
 VaHcouver*^ Voyage of Discovert/. 
 
 m' , 
 
 ; -!, 
 
 ' t 
 
 green ; the substance being much thinner and more 
 transparent there, tlian on the upper side. Perpendi- 
 cuhir to the plain of their surface stands a very thin 
 membrane, extending nearly the whole length of its 
 longest diameter, in a diagonal direction ; it is about an 
 inch in height, and forms a segment of a circle. This 
 membrane which seemed to serve all the purposes of a 
 jin and a sail, was sometimes observed to be erect ; at 
 others, lying flat, which was generally the case in the 
 morning; but as the day advanced, it became extended. 
 Whether this was voluntary, or the effect of the sun's 
 jntluence, was a question not easily to bo decided. 
 "When the membrane was down, these little animjils 
 uerc collected int 'juiall clusters, apparently destitute 
 cf any motion, and ! • colour at that time seemed of 
 a dark green." Such . the distinct account given by 
 the two gentleman on board of ditfcrcnt ships, and JMr.. 
 IMcnzles considered them as a new genus. It remains 
 for experienced naturalists to consider if it be so, or 
 whether the state in which they obscned them was not 
 one of those transmutations, such as silk and other 
 worms or caterpillars undergo ; and whether, after all, 
 these were not of that species of the Nautilus described 
 by former navigators and naturafists. 
 
 On the lf)th of April, they made Cape Mendocino, 
 the highest projecting headland on the sea shore of this 
 part of New Albion. This Cape is formed by two high 
 promontories, about ten miles apart ; the southernmost,- 
 which is the highest, much resembles Dunnozc : it is 
 situated in latitude 40° I9', longitude 235* 53'. The 
 shores of this country arc composed of rocky islets, ex- 
 tending about a mile into the sea : to the most projec- 
 ting, situated in latitude 4 P 8', longitude 236° 5', the 
 
 Captain gave the name of Rocky Point. ;^ 
 
 On the 23d, a piece of low level land, forming a 
 a very conspicuous point, was called Point St. 
 Glorge; and a very dangerous clus<tcr of rocks, ex- 
 tending 
 
 
To the North Pacific Ocean, ^^c. 
 
 39 
 
 mote 
 ndi- 
 thin 
 
 f its 
 
 lit an 
 
 This 
 of a 
 
 ; at 
 the 
 
 dcd. 
 
 mi's 
 ,} 
 
 ter\ding from thence, Dragon Rocks. The rocks* 
 above water arc four in number, with many sunken 
 ones and numerous breakers. This point forms a bay 
 on each side, the north point of which was called 
 St. George's Bay. On the 21th, a title or current 
 setting them fast in shore, they were obliged to anchor 
 in 39 fathoms, lat.42» 38', 1 ng 235" 44-': In this situa- 
 tion the outermost rock of the cluster bore by compass, 
 S. 16 E. six miles distant; a remarkable black rock 
 the nearest shore being N. 6^ E. 3f miles : a remarka- 
 ble black high cliff, resembling the cable end of a house, 
 N. 1 E. the main land, which is formed by low land 
 projecting from the high rocky coast, a considerable 
 way into the sea, and terminating in a wedge-like low 
 perpendicular cla<!S, N. 27 W. This was distin2,uisliecl 
 by tlic name of Cape Oriohd. 
 
 Proceeding up the straits, about five in tlie afternoon . 
 of the 30th, a long low sandy point of land was obser- 
 ved, projecting from the cliffs and shores into the sea, 
 behind which was seen a well-sheltered bay, also a very 
 high craggy mountain; having turned up a little way 
 into the bay, they anchored in 14 fathoms. The low 
 sandy point of land was called New Dungeness, and 
 the mountain Mount Baker, after the third Lieute- 
 nant who Srst discovered it. 
 
 Our navigators beheld the whole coast of new Albion 
 with secret delight; the port, wlwre they moored in 34« 
 fathoms, was distinguished by the name of Port Disco- 
 very, from the probability *of being its first European 
 visitors, and, affording them an agreeable asylum, as 
 well as a resting place, after a fatiguing turbulent voy- 
 age along the coasts of New Albion, they distingushcd 
 the land, which was fertile and luxuriant, by the name 
 of Protection Island; it is situated in 489 3' 07'', 
 longitude 237® 3 1 J'. This part of the country, present- 
 ed a view of four remarkable supported poles in a port, 
 which they named Port Townsiiend; on the tops 
 
 E2 «| 
 
 1 1 
 
te?. ;'»■ 
 
 40 
 
 Vancoiiccrs Voi/age of Discovery 
 
 of two of the poles was stuck a human head, recently, 
 placed there. Tho haii* and flesh were nearly perfect ; 
 and the heads appeared to carry the evidence of fury 
 or revenge, as in driving the stakes through the throat 
 of the cranitrm, the sagittal, with part of the scalp, 
 was borne on their point>5 some inches above the rest of 
 the skull. Between the stakes a fire had been made, 
 and near it some calcined bones were observed ; but 
 none of these appearances enabled them to satisfy them- 
 selves concerning the manner in which the bodies were 
 disposed of. " The poles were undoubtedly intended to 
 answer some particular purpose ; but whether of a ijeli- ' 
 gious, civil, or military nature, rflust be left to some 
 future investigation." 
 
 On Sunday the 6th of ]May, the crews, for'thc first, 
 time since they loft the Cape of Good Hope, were in- 
 dulged with a holiday, and they were visited by a few 
 of ihe natives, who brought them some fish and venison 
 for sale. In their persons, dances, arms, implements, 
 ^c. thcv seemed to resemble the inhabitants of Nootka ; 
 they offered two children of about six and seven years 
 of age in barter for some copper, which they were very 
 anxious to obtain; but Captain Vancouver expressly 
 prohibited this cruel traffic. Deserted Indian villages 
 were discovered in the inlets which they surveyed, send- 
 ing out detached parties for that purpose. In other 
 parts, they met with a considerable number of natives 
 i:itting together on the grass, who remained quite tran- 
 quil on their near approach, and it was observed, that 
 all the Indians of these parts offered them every civility, 
 shewed tokens of a friendly J'«5DOsition, and did not 
 appear to be a ferocious race. 
 
 Continuing their course northward, they passed the 
 straits, supposed to be those navigated and described by 
 John de Fuca, a Greek Pilot, in 1692, and since called 
 after him ; they proceeded regularly towards the attain- 
 ment of their principal object, and the first tri or they 
 
 corrected 
 
cct ; 
 
 fury 
 roat 
 alp, 
 it of 
 adc, 
 but 
 cjn- 
 ere 
 to 
 
 To the North Pacific Ocean, ^-c. 
 
 41 
 
 corrected was the false account which had been pub- 
 lished in England, that the American ship Washington^ 
 commanded by Mr. Robert Gray, had sailed througli 
 this inland sea': fortunately, they now, to their great 
 surprize, met with the Columbia, another American 
 vessel, commanded by Mr. Gray, who informed Lieu- 
 tenant Puget and Mr. Menzies, who had been sent on 
 board to obtain any information which might prove 
 serviceable to their future operations, "that he had 
 penetrated only 50 miles into thestreight in question, in 
 an E. S. E. direction, that he found the passage five 
 leagues wide, and that the natives gave him to under- 
 stand, that the opening extended a considerable distance 
 to the northward." They now explored every inlet or river . 
 they came to in the most accurate manner ; when they 
 were navigable for the Chatham, &he was detached on that 
 duty, and when this was not the case, the yawls and 
 other boats were sent out on various excursions, visiting 
 a number of Indian villages, and being received in a 
 friendly manner by the natives. 
 
 During these excursions they ascended a high steep 
 cliff, forming a point of land, which seemed chiefly to 
 be composed of indurated clay, resembling fuller's earthy 
 but which on further examination, proved to be a rich 
 species of the marrow-stone, and was therefore called 
 Marrow-Stone. Point. Here they dined, and had 
 an excellent view of the inlet, which appeared rather 
 extensive: at its northern extremity. Mount Baker 
 bore, by compass, N. 22 E. and a round snowy moun- 
 tain now forming its southern extremity, and which 
 bore N. 42 E. was called Mount Rainier. 
 
 On the 9th. in traversing the northern shores, they 
 found several oak trees, not exceeding three or four feet' 
 in circumference. The place consequently obtained 
 the name of Oak Cove. 
 
 
 E 3 
 
 'M 
 
 
■ ■ if : 
 
 42 
 
 Vancouver's Voyage of Discovery 
 
 At this time, the weather was very indificFcnt, anj 
 therefore they gave the name of Foul Weather 
 Bluff to a high perpendicular bluff point, which ter- 
 minated the shores of the inlet. .. .^ .... i,: 
 
 On the 13th, they directed their royte down the 
 inlet, which was now called Hood's Canal, and in 
 the afternoon of the 14lh, reached Foul Weatiieu 
 Bluff, which justified its name by a very heavy 
 shower of rain, which commenced just as they hyd 
 landed. The weather continued very unfavourable; 
 and on the 23d, the rain was accompanied with some 
 thunder and lightening. On the 23d, they explored 
 the cove, when they found it to communicate by a very 
 narrow passage, with an opening, apparently of some 
 extent, situated in the western corner of the cove, formed 
 by two interlocking points, about a quarter of a mile 
 from each other ; these formed a channel about half a 
 mile long, free from rocks and skoals, in which there 
 were not less than 5 fathoms water. It wj^s called after 
 the gentleman who discovered it, Port Orchard. 
 The surrounding country received the name of Va- 
 shon's Island, and the south extremity of the inlet 
 Pug et's Sound, The Point near their present station, 
 hitherto called the Village Point, yras now named Res- 
 toration Point, our navigators having celebrated 
 that memorable event, whilst at anchor under it. 
 
 In pursuing their examination of the western branch 
 of this inlet, it was found to terminate in a very excel- 
 l(Mit and commodious cove or harbour, with regular 
 soundings from 10 to 20 fathoms, good holding ground* 
 It was called Penn's Cove, and on e^ch point was a 
 deserted village, in one of which were discovered several 
 sepulchres formed exactly like a centrybox: some of 
 them were open, and contained the skeletons of many 
 young ciiildren, tied up in baskets. They likewise no- 
 ticed the smaller bones uf adults, but they could not 
 see one of the limb bones, vvliich gave rise to a suppo- 
 sition, 
 
To the North Pacific Oceans ^c. 
 
 43 
 
 pe 
 
 
 ytion, that these were appropriated by the natives to 
 useful purposes, such as pointing tlieir arrows, spear^ 
 ^c. 
 
 This inlet, to the examination of which a fortnight 
 had been dedicated, was distinguished by the name of 
 Admiralty Inlet. 
 
 On the 4th of June 1792, the anniversary of his 
 Majesty's birth, they took possession, with the usual for- 
 malities, of all the countries they had lately explored, 
 in the name of, and for his Britannic Majesty, his heirs 
 and successors; and they are to be the coast, from 
 that part of New Albion, situated in the latitude of 39" 
 20' N. and longitude 236° 26' E. to the entrance «i the 
 inlet, supposed to be the straits of Juan de Fuca, as 
 likewise of all the • coasts, islands, &c. within the said 
 straits, as well on the northern as the southern shores. 
 The interior sea they honoured with the name of the 
 GuLPH OF Georgia, and the continent, binding the 
 said gulph, and extending southward to the 45th degree 
 of N. latitude, they named New Georgia, in honour 
 of his Majesty. This branch of Admiralty inlet obtained 
 the name of Pqssessiox Sound; its westerp arm 
 PocT Gardner, and its smaller or eastern one Port 
 Susan. 
 
 They now quitted Admiralty Inlet, the north point 
 of which was called Point Partridge, and the west 
 point Point Wilson : a low sandy Island, forming at 
 its west end, a low cliff, above which some dwarf trees 
 are produced, from N. 26 W. to N. 40 W. was called 
 Strawbery Bay. On the eighth, about three in the 
 afternoon, with a good breeze, from the north, and a, 
 flood tide, the Discovery turned up into Strawberry 
 Bay, where, in about three hours, they anchored in l6 
 ftithoms, fine sandy bottom. This bay is situated on the 
 west side of an island, which producing an abundance 
 of upright cypress, was therefore called Cypress Bajy. 
 The Chatham; while endeavouring to gain this anchor- 
 age, 
 
'•■nrK 
 
 44 
 
 Vancouver s Voi/agc of Discoien/ 
 
 i 'i - 
 
 ;' i 
 
 ■n 
 
 age, was, by a very strong flood tide, drawn to the 
 eastward of the !>laiKl, where she was compelled to an- 
 chor on a rocky bottom, and the next morning, on 
 account'of the strength and irregularity of the tide, the 
 captain was informed, by a letter from Lieutenant 
 Broiighton, that the stream cable had been cut thro' 
 by the rocks. On Sunday morning, "the 10th, she ar* 
 rived in the bay, with the loss of her stream anchor. 
 
 It appeared that one of the inlets communicated with 
 Port Gardner, by a very narrow and intricate channel, 
 which, for a considerable distance was not 40 yards in 
 width, and abounded with rocks above and beneath the 
 surfa(?t of the water ; which, added to the great rapi- 
 dity and irregjilarity of the tide, rendered the passage 
 navigable only for boats or vessels of very small bur- 
 then. The eastern shore of the gulph from the S. W. 
 point of this passage in lat. 48° 27', long. '237° 3?', to 
 the north point of entrance into Possession Sound, in lat. 
 47° 53', long. 237" 47', was called Wiiidby's Island, 
 and the northern pass, leading unto Port Gardner, pE- 
 CETTioN Passage. 
 
 In the evening they steered for a bay that presented 
 itself, where about six o'clock they anchored in six. 
 fathoms water, sandy bottom, half a mile from the 
 shore. The points of the bay bore, by compass, S. 32 
 W. and N. 72 W. When the ship was secured, the 
 Captain went in a boat to inspect the shores of the bay, 
 and found, with very little trouble, a very convenient 
 situation for their several duties on shore. The most 
 northerly branch terminated in two open bays; tie 
 southernmost, which is the smaller, has two smi-'l 
 rocks lying off it's south point, and affords good an- 
 chorage from seven to ten fathoms. The other extends 
 to the northward. The point constituting the west ex- 
 tremity of these bays was called Point Roberts. 
 On the 13th, about five in the morning, they directed 
 their course to the eastern shore, and landed on a low 
 
 blu^ 
 
Tq the North raci/k OceaUy SfC. 
 
 45 
 
 f. 
 
 bluff point, \vhich formed the south point of a very ex- 
 tensive sound, with a small arm leading to the east- 
 ward. This was called Point Grey, and is about 
 seven leagues from Point Roberts. The arm or canal, 
 not navigable for shipping, received the name of Bur- 
 hard's Canal; the north point of which, forming 
 the south point of the main branch of the sound was 
 called PoiNt hiKi'S^o^^ situated north from Point; 
 Grey about a league distant; ^ low rocky island, nearly 
 in the center between tbesf^ two points, was called 
 Passage Isi/anp. 
 
 Having quitted Point Atkinson they proceeded up 
 the Sound and passed, on the western shore, some small 
 detached rocks, with some sunken oqes among them, 
 extending about two miles, but not so far from th^ 
 shore as to impede the navigation of the Sound, up 
 which tliey made a rapid progress, but the dreariness 
 of the Country, added to the gloominess of the wea- 
 ther. The sun having shone for a little, thoy had an 
 opportunity of ascertaining the latitude of the east 
 point of an island, which from the s^iape of the moun- 
 tain which compasses it, was called Anvil Island, 
 to be 49° 30' long. 237° 3'. By sun-set they had 
 passed a channel which had been observed to lead into 
 a gulph to the southward of Anvil Island, and about 
 nine o'clock landed for the night, near the west point 
 of entrance into the Sound, which they called Howe's 
 Sound, and this point, sitwftted in lat 4^« 23' long, 
 235" 51' Point Gower. 
 
 Having resumed their excursions for succeeding dayf 
 along the continental shore, about noon on the 20lh 
 they reached the north point of the inlet, which, as it 
 pioduccd the first Scotch firs they had yet seen, was 
 called ScOTCii-FiR Point, and to this^rm of the sea 
 was given the name of Jervis's Canal. On the 21st, 
 they passed the south point of this land, which they 
 dist,inguished by the name of Point Upwooi*.' 
 
 > ^ • ' They 
 
46 
 
 Vancouxers Voyage of Distorcry 
 
 u 
 
 Tlicy were occasionally met by a few of tlie natives 
 in their canoes, who conducted themselves with the 
 greatest decorum and civility, presenting them with 
 several fish (somewhat resembling smelt) drest and un- 
 drest. Finding our navigators inclined to make some 
 return for tlicir hospitality, these people evinced their 
 understanding by prefering iron to copper. They also 
 manifested a great desire to Imitate their actions, espe- 
 cially in the firing of a mii;5quet, which one of them 
 performed, but not without much fear and trembling. 
 They minutely attended* to all their transactions, and 
 examined the cplour of their skins with infinite curio- 
 sity. In other respects they differed but little from the 
 generality of the natives before seen. Our navigators 
 suppose'l that these people had never met with any of a 
 civilized country before, for they had no European 
 commodities or trinkets, except some rude ornaments 
 apparently made from sheet copper. None of their 
 habitations could be discovered, whence it was con- 
 cluded that their village was within the forest. 
 
 During their excursion northward they met with two 
 Spanish vessels that had been employed on a similar ser- 
 vice by the Spanish Government, and Captain Vancou- 
 ver had the mortification to find that they had pene- 
 trated further into the inlets and canal already men- 
 tioned than himself. The conduct, however,- of the 
 commanders c*" these vessels was replete with that po- 
 liteness and friendship, which characterizes thcSpanish 
 nation. The Captain informed these gentlemen, that 
 Signior Quadra, the Commander in Chief of the 
 Si^inish marine at St. Bias and California, was, with 
 three frigates and a brig, waiting his arrival at Nootka, 
 in order to negociate the restoration of those territories 
 to the Crown of Great Britain. 
 
 From these new and unexpected friends they directed 
 their course along a shoal, to which they gave the name 
 of the Sturgeon Bank, having purchased of the 
 
 natives 
 
To the North Pacific Ocearif ^c. 
 
 m 
 
 [h 
 
 le 
 rir 
 
 natives some excellent fii?h of that kind neighing from 
 14 to 200 pounds each. A broken part of the coast, 
 which was examined by Mr. Whidbey, forming an ex- 
 tensive bay, received the name of Belli ngii am Bay. 
 On the island some small oaks were seen, with the Vir- 
 ginian juniper, Canadian elder, and black birch, which 
 lait grew in such abundance that it obtained the name 
 of Birch Bay. 
 
 On the 24th they sailed out of Birch Bay, and con- 
 tinued their course to the north-westward. On the 
 25th they brought too for the Spanish vessels who 
 were at some distance astern, and when they came up, 
 were honoured with the company of the Commanders 
 to dinner, and then made sail directing their course 
 through the Canal del Neustra Signora del Uosario, 
 whose whole extent, nearly in a direction, N. 33 W. 
 is about 10 leagues from Point Upwood, the S. E. point 
 to Point Marshall, the N. Sv. point of the island 
 of Feveda, which point is situated in lat. 49* 48' long. 
 233" 47'J. About five in the evening they passed be- 
 tween the main and an island lying in an east and west 
 direction, which the Captain called Savaky's Island. 
 At night they anchored 32 fathoms, rocky bottom. 
 At day-break they found themselves about half a mile 
 from the shores of a high rocky island, surroun''cd by 
 a detached and broken country that had altogether a 
 very inhospitable appearance. On examination they 
 found the continental shore continued nearly in its 
 N. W. direction to the eastern point of entrance into 
 this sound, which was called Point Sarah, lat. 50<» 
 4f' long. 235° 25^' ; its opposite point was called 
 Point Mary, lying N. ^7 W. about half a»league 
 distant. The neighbouring country seemed to have 
 been deserted even by naturt, as it aflbrded only a few 
 small onions, some samphire, and some scattered bushes 
 bearing a scanty crop of indifferent berries. They mot 
 with two empty cauoes ^d some abandoned dwellings. 
 
 During 
 
ilf! « ^!t» '--'-rr^i 
 
 ^'i. 
 
 ■m 
 
 .■i 
 
 ^ 
 
 Vancoiccer*s Voyage of Discovery 
 
 During their stay they examined this forlorn place, the 
 carpenters were employed in repairing the he£:d of ♦!!,? 
 Discovery; and some excclleat spruce beer was ?.lso 
 brewed. / ; . , . . .., , 
 
 Mr. Jolinstone, in taking a survey leading to the 
 W. N. W. and to the N. in a channel of irregular 
 width, aftnr examining a small opening in a northerly 
 «urection, shortly discovered another about a mile wide, 
 in lat. 50° 21' long. 235** 9\ along which he kept the 
 starboard or eastern shore on board, which was com- 
 pact, but the western side, where, for several .miss, 
 tires were observed, seemed divided by water. This 
 canal received the name of Bute's Canal, ^vli?te was 
 found an Indian village, situated on the face of a steep 
 rock, containing about 150 of the natives, some few of 
 whom visited Mr. Johnstone's party in their way up 
 the canid, and 'many afterwards came in the most civil 
 and friendly manner, with a plentiful supply of fresh 
 herrings, which they bartered in a fair and honest way 
 for nails. 
 
 Another party, on July 5th, iound the western side 
 of the Gulph of Georgia, frora that part opposite to 
 Point Marshall, to be compact, rising in a gentle as- 
 cent from the sea shore, to the inland mountains (some 
 covered with snow) wearing a pleasant fertile appear- 
 ance : along this shore they continued their route, and 
 entered an inlet, which received the name of Point 
 
 MUDGE. 
 
 ' On account of the scanty supply of provisions, which 
 they had received, and of which the adjacent country 
 was soon exhausted, the place of anchorage was called 
 Desolaie Island. A round island, 3 or 4 leagues 
 in circuit, lying before the entrance into Bute's Canal, 
 received the name Stuart's Island, and a canal 
 about a mile wide, between steep and nearly perpendi- 
 cular mountains, was called Lough be rough's Ca- 
 nal. In taking a survey of the compact southern 
 
 shore, 
 
 HI > 
 
To i!i€ North Pacific Ocean, S)^c, 
 
 49 
 
 le, tht 
 
 ?.lso 
 
 the 
 Jgular 
 therly 
 wide, 
 )t the 
 corn- 
 miss, 
 This 
 
 
 sliores ill its >\est direction, by a narrow c|ianncl lead- 
 ing to the south, they found the main arm, which from 
 that station, took a north direction, 5;)rcad very consi- 
 derably, but the view to the westward was greatly inter- 
 rupted by small Islunds, the westernmost of vhich 
 received the name of Alleviation Island. The 
 channel discovered and examined by Mr. 5ohnstonc, 
 was in compliment to him, called Johnstone's 
 Straits, and an Island he explored Hardwicke's 
 Island. On the l6th, with the assistance of a fresh 
 N. W. wind they shortly reached Johnstone's Straits, 
 and passed a point conspicuous by the confluence of 
 the channels, which was called after the Discovery's 
 Cciisort, Point Chatham. In the bay to the north 
 westward of this point, was situated an Indian village, 
 from whence some of the natives attempted to visit our 
 navigators, but were prevented by the wind. After 
 they had proceeded about ten miles from Point Chat- 
 ham, the tide was so powerful against them, that they 
 became stationary in a bay, on the northern shore, in 
 32 fathoms. The land under which they anchored, 
 was a narrow Island, and received the name of Tiiuii- 
 Low's Island, At three *lie next morning, they 
 weighed, but were obliged to ply under double reefed 
 top sails, to windward. About 1 1 they anchored in a 
 small bay in 50 fathoms. A small Island, unexamined 
 by Mr. Johnstone but now explored by Lieutenant 
 ..Puget and Mr. Whidbey, who for that purpose were 
 dispatched in the launch and cutler, received the nama 
 of Port Neville. The morning of the 20th, shewed 
 the village of their neighbourhood to be large : and from 
 the number of their visitors, wl.o brought them excel- 
 lent skins of the sea otter, it appe;\red to be very popu- 
 lous. The chief of the village paid them an earl visit, 
 and the inhabitants behaved in general very orrlerly aud 
 civil. 
 
 T!i( 
 
^■% 
 
 60 
 
 I 
 
 f 
 
 Vancouver's Voyage of Discovery 
 
 The Chatham having been obliged by adverse winds, 
 to anchor occasionally, an opening which had occupied 
 Lieutenant Broughton's attention, received the name of 
 Call's Canal, and another Knight's Canal. On 
 the 26'th, the boundary of the continent was determined 
 to a point, which, from its appearance and situation, 
 received the name of Deep Sea Bluff, in hit. 50° 
 52', long. 232° 2i)'. An extensive cluster of Islands, 
 rocky islets, and rocks, which he had observed, was in 
 commemo'-ation of his discovery distinguished by the 
 name of Brougijton's Arcitipelago. 
 
 On the 28ih,- the discovery and Chatham in company, 
 steered to the northward for the channel, leading to 
 Deep Sea Bluff, which Captain Vancouver called 
 Fife's Passage. About two in. the afternoon, they 
 entered Fife's Passage, and found its eastern point 
 (which was called Point Duff) situated in lat. 50° 48', 
 long. 233° 10'. A small rocky islet lies off Point Duff, 
 covered with shrubs, and off the west point of this pas- 
 sage, named Point Gordon, bearing N. 83 VV. from 
 Point Duff, are several white barren rocks, lying at a 
 little distance from the shore. Having reached Deep 
 Sea Bluff, they anchored about 1 1 at night in a small 
 ppening, on its western side, in 70 fathoms water, 
 which received the name of Point Philip. In taking 
 a survey, they kept the continental shore on board, thro' 
 a very intricate branch, that took a direction E. by N. 
 for near two leagues, and' then terminated as usual, at 
 the base of a remarkable mountain conspicuous for its 
 irregular form, and its elevation above the rest of the 
 hills, in its neighbourhood. This the Captain called 
 Mount Stephens, in lat. 51° l', long. 233° 20'. 
 During their researches here, they visited a small In- 
 dian village, situated on a rocky Island. The inhabi- 
 tants did not exceed 30 or 40, and were as orderly and 
 courteous as those whom they before met. In conclu- 
 ding this- excursion, they proceeded down the opening, 
 
 leading 
 
To the North Pacijic Oceatiy S^c 
 
 51 
 
 ids, 
 
 )ied 
 je of 
 
 On 
 lined 
 tion, 
 
 50» 
 tnds, 
 IS ill 
 
 the 
 
 leading to the south westward, which was called 
 Well's Passage, and the west point thereof Point 
 
 BOYLES. 
 
 August 6, having a light wind in the S. W. quarter, 
 they plied until day break, when the breeze was suc- 
 ceeded by a calm, and very thick fog, that obscured 
 every surrounding object, until noon, without their 
 being able to get isoundings. When the fog dispersed, 
 tUey found themselves in a chahnel, which they had 
 observed the preceding day, and for which they intend- 
 ed to steer, interspersed with numerous rocky isjlets, 
 and rocks, extending from a cluster of Islands towards 
 the continental shore. The dispersion of the fog was 
 attended by a light breeze, from the N. N. W. and as 
 the Discovery stood to windward, she suddenly grounded 
 on a bed of sunken rocks. A signal immediately made 
 known her situation to the Chatham, who instantly an- 
 chored in 50 fathoms, about a cable and a half distant 
 from her consort, to whose assistance all her boats im- 
 mediately came. The stream anchor was carried out, 
 and an attempt made to heave the ship off, but without 
 effect. On heaving, the anchor came home, so that 
 their only resourse was getting down their topmasts, 
 yards, &c. sboaring dp the vessel with spars and S[)car 
 topmasts, and lightening her as much as possible, by 
 floating the water, and throwing overboard their fuel 
 and part of the ballast. Soon after the ship w, I'j^iound, 
 the tide took her on the starboard quarter, an ;is ^ho 
 was afloat abaft, it caused her to take a sudden suirrT 
 and made her heel so very considerably on the sturboaul 
 side, which was from the rocks, that her situation for a 
 while was very alarming. The shoars were got over 
 with all possible speed, but notwithstanding this, by 
 the time it was low water, the starboard main chains 
 were within thred inches of the surface of the sc|« 
 Though in the immediate vicinity of the ocean, there 
 was happily, at this time, no swell nor agitation. In 
 
 F 2 , this 
 
 >'i. 
 
m^ 
 
 m. 
 
 m 
 
 a 
 
 t 
 
 I 
 
 t 
 
 M 
 
 Vancouver* a Voyage of Diseoier^ 
 
 this melancholy situation, they remained expecting 
 relief from the retiirnikg flood, which to their inex- 
 pressible joy, was at lentfth announced by the floating 
 ^f the shoars ;<ibout two in the morning of the 7th, the. 
 ship became nearly upright ; they hove on the stern 
 cr.bie, and without much iiirth' labour, had the plea- 
 sure of feeling her again afloat, and without any appa- 
 rent hurt. After three hours rest, all hands were employed 
 in re-equipping the vessel ; when John Turner, a sea- 
 man, had his arm unfortunately fractured by the break*- 
 jng of x\\c main topgallant top-rope. ■ ' ' 
 
 Being ready to proceed, and a light breeze springing 
 up from the S. W. ignorant of any safer channel, they 
 directed their course thro' that before them, along the 
 coniinental shore. It was a narrow passage, and be- 
 came more and more intricate by an increased number 
 of rocky islets and rocks, as w ell below as* above the 
 water. About five in the afternoon the Discovery for- 
 tunately escaped through its narrowest part: about six, 
 ?ome of its hidden dangers arrested the progress of the 
 t'hatliam. The Discovery instantly anchored in 70 
 fathoms, and sent boats to her assistance. She had 
 latterly struck so hard, as entirely to disable both the 
 .♦'{)are topmasts, which had been used for shoars, but 
 litout half past one, they succeeded in heaving her off 
 without any material damage. 
 
 On Friday morning, the 10th, having a fine breeze 
 from the eastward, they stood across Queen Charlotte's 
 Sound, for the entrance of Smith's inlet, wiiich they 
 readied on thel l-th, in boisterous rainy weather ; and 
 en the Ib'th, entered another opening ibouta league to 
 the north of the N. of Smith's Inlet, to which was 
 given the name of Riveu's's Canal. Their present 
 etation bore some resemblance at first to Mr. Duncan's 
 ^ ort Safety, but on reference to particulars, differed 
 
 I manii 
 
 -cry materially 
 
 mg 
 
 disagn 
 
 nicut of depth and distance, it was insisted upon by 
 
 some, 
 
 'I 
 
 1 
 
To the North Pacific Ocean, «$-c. 
 
 53 
 
 Ictins: 
 
 liiicx- 
 
 ^ating 
 
 k the. 
 
 1 stern 
 
 I plca- 
 
 ippa- 
 
 [loyed 
 
 soa- 
 
 bcak*- 
 
 «ome, to be the same, and was therefore called by the 
 Captain, Safety Cove. A party consisting of Mr. 
 Johnstone, Mr. Menzies, &c. had, for the purpose of a 
 survey, pursued a narrow branch of the inlet, winding 
 to the south and south westward to the lat. of 51° 57' , 
 and thence pursued the main branch of the inlet, which 
 is from one to two miles broad, in a north easterly di- 
 rection, to a point called by Captain Vancouver 
 Point Menzies, where the inlet divides into three 
 branches; the first leading to the N. W. the second to 
 the northward ; and the other to the S. 
 
 Nothing remarkable occured during their passage 
 from Fitzhugh's to Nootka Sound, where they landed 
 August the 28th. 
 
 For some time previous to, and on his arrival at 
 Nootka, Captain Vancouver experienced every act of 
 civility and friendship from the Spanish governors and 
 other officers belonging to their different settlements in 
 those parts. ' ; 
 
 On the first meeting of Captain Vancouver, and 
 Signior Quadra, commander in chief of the Spanish 
 squadron stationed at Nootka, on board the Discovery, 
 where the former breakfasted, the utmost harmony and 
 cordiality prevailed; and as many of his officers as 
 could be spared accompanied the British Commander 
 on shore, the next day, to dine with Signior Quadra 
 by invitation, when they were agreeably surprised by a 
 sumptuous entertainment, which they had not the most 
 distant idea of meeting with at such a place. The 
 repast consisted of five courses, containing a superfluity 
 of the best provisions, served with great elegance: a 
 royal salute was fired on drinking health to the sove- 
 reigns of England and Spain, and a salute of sevcnteca' 
 guns to the success of the service in which the Disco-, 
 very and the Chatham were engaged. Aftpr this friendly 
 intercourse, Captain Vancouver sent on shore his tents, 
 observatory, chronometer, and other iii&irumeutti, and' 
 
 J' 3 every 
 
r'iv 
 
 M 
 
 p^ 
 
 1 
 
 f 
 
 54 Vancouxer*sVo\jage of Discovery 
 
 every preparation was made for a temporary scttlemcnf, 
 and repair of the ships and boats, so as to be in readiness to 
 negociatc and conclude ipiportant business of ceding the 
 toriitory, &c. as required by the first article of the 
 convention of 28th October 1750, between the .two 
 courts, and the letter of instruction of Count-Florida 
 ElanCa, the Spanish Minister, dated the 12th of May 
 17i^l. A written correspondence then took place, 
 commenced by Signior Quadra, who in a long letter to 
 Captain Vancouver entered into a detail of the various 
 circumstances which had come to his knowledge respec- 
 ttiig the capture of the Argonaut, and the Princess 
 Royal 'British merchantmen, in the year 1789> by 
 Don Estevan Joseph Martinez, who first took possession 
 of the port of Nootka, and on that possession founded 
 the prior right of the Crown of Spain, acting under the 
 orders of the Viceroy of New Spain, The letter was 
 accompanied with several documents, all calculated to 
 justify the conduct of Martinez, and to criminate Cap- 
 tain Colnett commanding the English vessel calkd the 
 Argonaut, who, according to the Spanish statement, 
 did not confine his views to the commerce of lh& 
 country, but wished to fortify himself, and to establish 
 an English factory, upon which proceeding, Martinez 
 arrested him and sent him to the Spanish settlement at 
 St. Bias. He likewise offered to demonstrate, in the 
 most unequivocal manner, that the injuries, prejudices, 
 and usurpafions, represented by Captain Mcares were 
 chimerical. Upon the whole it appears, that both our 
 own and the American traders to the North West Coast 
 of America are highly censurable for misconduct in the 
 Spanish settlements, and for frauds and impositions iiv 
 their traffic with the uninformed native of the country ; 
 but it was not the business of Vancouver to enter into 
 retrospective investigations: he therefore very pru- 
 dently declined them, and confined himself to the 
 exact tcnour of his instructions, which produced the 
 * happiest 
 
To the North Pacific Occariy 8f(^ 
 
 55 
 
 Isto- 
 
 thc 
 
 (the 
 
 two 
 
 happiest effects; for on his next visit to Signior 
 Quadra, he requested to know who he intended to 
 leave in possession of the territories to be ceded to 
 hinij, and being aiisvvered, that it would be Mr. 
 Broughton of the Chatham, he gave directions that the 
 store-houses should be immediately cleared, had a 
 large new oven built express for the service of his 
 people, ordered all the houses to be repaired, and the 
 gardens to be put in order. He likewise supplied them 
 with plenty of poultry, black cattle, and swine, and 
 said that he should take only a sufficient quantity for 
 his passage to the southward, leaving the rest, with a 
 large assortment of garden seeds for Mr. Broughton. 
 In addition to these civilities, Signior Quadra, with 
 several Spanish officers, accompanied the British Com-> 
 mander and his officers in different excursion? to the 
 neighbouring villages, and introduced them to the 
 chiefs or the princes of the districts. And he finally 
 offered to accompany Captain Vancouver in his 
 researches to the southward, and to conduct him ta 
 any of Spanish ports he might wish to visit, or to sail 
 first, and wait his arrival at any place he should think 
 proper to appoint, recommending St. Francisco or 
 Monterrey for that purpose. Yet after all, a difference 
 of opinion between the two commanders prevented the 
 completion of that restitution which Captain Van- 
 couver's instructions required ; for Signior Quadra 
 offered to surrender only that identical space on which 
 Mr. Meares's house and breast work had been situated, 
 which could not possibly be considered as the objects 
 expressed by the terms tracts of Icuid, distnctSf or 
 parcels of land, in the first article of the Convention, 
 and thus the.negociation terminated, and our Captain 
 wrote to the Lords of the Admiralty an account of his 
 conduct, which he entrusted to the care of Mr. Mudge 
 his first Lieutenant, together with extracts from the 
 most impprtant parts of his journal, and a copy of his 
 
 survey 
 
 :!i^l| 
 
 [m 
 
%^^ 
 
 m. 
 
 66 
 
 Vancouv€r*i Voyage o/DUcovery 
 
 survey of the coast ; a passage was procured for him in 
 a vessel bound to China, from whence he was to pro- 
 ceed with all dispatch to England, and the Captain 
 presumed, that lie had every reason to indulge the 
 hopes of his speedy return, with further instructions 
 for his conduct in tho,se regions. 
 
 In the mean time the friendly intercourse continued 
 between the two commanders, and the assistance given 
 by Signior Quadra, to our navigators in the further 
 pursuit of their Voyage of Discovery was as effectual 
 as if no difference of sentiment had arisen respecting 
 the cession of Nootka. 
 
 Accordingly they parted in the most cordial manner, 
 and our navigators continued their survey along the 
 Southern Coast. On their arrival at a very consider- 
 able Spanish settlement, called the Mission of St. 
 Francisco, on the 15th of November, early in the mor- 
 ning, they found their anchorage to be in a most excel- 
 lent bay, within three quarters of a mile from the nearest 
 shore. The herds of cattle and flocks of sheep grazing 
 on the surrounding hills were a sight they had long 
 been strangers to : these indicated the residence of the 
 proprietors not to be far remote. On hoisting the 
 colours at sun rise, a gun was fired, and in a little time 
 afterwards several people were seen on horseback 
 coming from behind the hills down to the beach, who 
 waved their hats, and made other signals for a boat, 
 which was immediately sent to the shore, and on its 
 return, the Captain was favoured with the good com- 
 pany of a priest of the order of St. Francis, and a 
 sergeant in the Spanish army to breakfast. The reve- 
 rend Father expressed the pleasure he felt at their 
 arrival, and assured him that every refreshment and 
 service, in the power of himself or Mission to bestow, 
 he might unrcsci vedly command ; since it would b6 
 conferring on them all a peculiar obligation to allow 
 them to be scrviceeible. The Sergeant expressed him- 
 •, [ •• ' • ' - - . --A- self 
 
To the North Pacific Ocean, ^c. 
 
 «r 
 
 im m 
 pro- 
 [ptain 
 the 
 ;t]ons 
 
 linucd 
 I given 
 irther 
 hctual 
 acting 
 
 self in the mast friendly manner, and infoimcd Ihe 
 Captain, that, in the absence of the Commandant, he 
 was directed on thcif arrival to render them every 
 accommodation the settlement could afford. On thqi- 
 f eturn of the Commandant, he went on board the Dis- 
 covery, repeated the offers of service that had been 
 made them by their former visits, and informed the 
 Captain, that Signior Quadra was waiting for him at 
 the settlement of Monterrey. This polite reception 
 was the result of general ordeis from the Court of 
 Spain, which through Signior Quadra had been com- 
 municatcd to this Commandant and to the neighbouring 
 settlements and missions; consequently our country- 
 men passed their time very agreeably at this place, 
 whilst the ships were taking in plenty of wood and 
 water, and repairing some damages they had sustained 
 by tempestuous weather since they left Nootka. 
 
 The little they had seen of Port St. Francisco, enabled 
 them to decide that it was very extensive in two directions. 
 One spacious branch took its course east and south 
 east-ward to a great distance from the nation they had 
 quitted in the morning ; the other apparently of cqVial 
 magnitude led to the northward, in which were several 
 islands. Near the first mentioned branch is planted 
 the mission of St. Clara. The residence of the friars is 
 called amission. November 17th they rode up to the 
 jtresidioy an appellation given to their military establish- 
 ments in this county, signifying a safe guard. It not 
 being more than a mile from their landing place, they 
 soon arrived there. Its wall which from the harbour 
 was visible from the ships, but instead of an expected 
 city of town, they were conducted into a spacious ver- 
 dant plain, surrounded by hills, except on the side which 
 fronted the port. A square area, the sides of which 
 were about 200 yards in length, enclosed by a mud 
 wall, was the only object of human industry that could 
 be seen. The Spanish soldiers composing the garrison 
 
 amounting 
 
 
 *'j 
 

 I 
 
 Rvji 
 
 31 5 
 
 1-1. 
 
 6a 
 
 ^''fl/jcottier** Voyage of Discovert; 
 
 amounting to 35, who with their wives, females, and a 
 few Indian servants, composed the whole of the inhabi- 
 tants. Their houses were aleng the wall, within the 
 square, and their fronts uniformly extended the same 
 distance into the area, which is a clear open space. 
 Opposite tlie gateway^ which is the only entrance, is 
 the church, which though small, is superior to any of 
 the other buildings for neatness, and is the only one 
 white-washed with lime made of shells. On the left of 
 the church stands the commandant's house, consisting 
 (as jthe captain believed) of two rooms and a closet 
 only, divided by massy walls, and communicating with 
 each other by very small doors. Between these apart- 
 ments and the outward wall, was a well stocked poultry 
 house and yard, and h;;tween the roofs and the cieling* 
 of the room was a kind of lumber garret. The apart- 
 ment which the captain was in was about 30 feet long, 
 '14 feet broad, and 12 feet high. Cordiahty and a 
 hearty welcome supplied the place of elegance. The 
 good lady of the house was no less attentive to her 
 guests than her spouse ; she was decently dressed, seated 
 cross-legged on a mat, placed on a small square wooden 
 platform, raised three or four inches from the ground, 
 nearly in front of the door, with two daughters and her 
 son, dressed equally neat, sitting by her; such being 
 the mode observed by these ladies when they receive 
 visitors; the lady like her husband was advanced in 
 years, and the behaviour of tlie children was exceedingly 
 polite and pleasing. 
 
 The next day (Nov. 18,) they visited themission about 
 a league distance from the presidio, in an eastwardly 
 direction. The ruggedness of the road rendered it a 
 very unpleasant ride. In situation and external appear- 
 ance it very much resembled the presidio, except that 
 instead of forming a perfect quadrangle, the buildings 
 formed two sides of a square only. They were received 
 by the reverend fathers with much coidia|ity and friend- 
 
 ship» 
 
 ft.i: ^'. 
 
 
To the North Tacific Ocean, SjC 
 
 55 
 
 id a 
 ibi. 
 I the 
 ime 
 
 ICC. 
 
 y, is 
 
 of 
 lone 
 ft of 
 
 ship, and instantly conducted to their mansion, situated 
 near and communicating with the church. The houses 
 formed an oblong square, the sides of the church com- 
 posed one end, near which were the apartments allotted 
 to the .fathers. Soni<? of the houses were appropriated 
 to the reception of grain, but of which there was no 
 great abundance, nor was the place of growth within 
 sight. One large room was occupied by manufacturers 
 of a coarse sort of blanketting, made from the wool pro- 
 duced in the neighbourhood. The looms had been made 
 by the Indians under the immediate direction of the 
 fathers, and the produce arising from this manufactory 
 is wholly applied to the cloathing of the converted 
 Indians. The preparation of the wool, as also the 
 spinning and weaving of it, was performed by unmarried 
 women and female children, who were all resident in 
 the square, and were in a state of conversion to the 
 Roman Cathohc persuasion. The cloth was by no means 
 despicable ; besides manufacturing this, they arc also 
 instructed in a variety of useful employments until they 
 marry, which is greatly encouraged. 
 
 The uniform, kind-hearted disposition of this religious 
 order, has never failed (according to report) to attach 
 to their interest the affections of the natives; which when 
 "we consider the unprotected state of the fathers is a very 
 happy circumstance. There are three fathers, and they 
 are only protected by five soldiers, who reside under the 
 directions of a corporal in the buildings of the mission, 
 at some distance on the other side of the church. 
 Should a conspiracy for their distruction take place, the 
 mission would soon fall ; for there is little doubt of the 
 conspirators being joined by the Indians of the village, 
 which is in the vicinity of the mission, and said to con- 
 tain 600 persons. The major part, (as the captain was 
 informed) were converted to thcRonian Catholic religion, 
 but few advantages had attended their conversion, for 
 all the precepts and laborious examples of their worthy 
 
 N - ' pastors 
 
 
60 
 
 Vancouitrs Voi/agc of Discovery 
 
 * '.'■. 
 
 
 '. Hi 
 
 pastors were treated with the most perfect indifference. 
 They still remained in a most abject state of unciviliza- 
 tion, averse to cleanliness, both in their persons and 
 habitations. They were in gejicral ill-made, under the 
 middle size ; their features ugly, and their countenance* 
 devoid of any expression. 
 
 The church for its magnitude, architecture, and in- 
 ternal decorations, did great credit to the constructors 
 of it. This edifice seems to have engrossed all the atten- 
 tion of the fathers when compared to the other miser- 
 able habitations. Even their garden, though in a pro- . 
 niising soil, an object of such material importance had 
 not yet acquired any great degree of cultivation. 
 
 The captain and his party on their return to the 
 convent, were elegantly and abundantly entertained with 
 beef, mutton, fish, fowls, and such vegetables as their 
 garden afforded. The Mission we are informed was 
 founded in 1 77^i f^nd is otie of the northermost settlements 
 of atiy description y formed by the court of Spain on the 
 continental shore of\north west America, ^or the Islands 
 adjactnt. . ' 
 
 Their next visit was to another settlement called rhe 
 ^lission of St. Claro, about forty geographical miles 
 from St. Francisco, to which they rode on horseback ; 
 here they met with the same hearty welcome as at 
 St. Francisco. The buildings and offices form a square, 
 but not an entire enclosure. It is situated in an exten- 
 sive fertile plain, the soil of which as also that of the 
 surrounding country, is a rich black productive mould. 
 'i'he Captain did not think that the spot which the reve- 
 rend fathers had selected for their establishment, so 
 suitable as many other parts of the plain within a little 
 distance of their present buildings, which arc erected 
 in a low marshy situation, for the sake of being near a 
 run of fine water, which passes close by the walls of 
 the fathers' apartments, built near and communicating 
 with the church, and upon the same plan as those at 
 
 St, V rancisco 
 
 iu 
 
 « 
 
lb the Xorih Pacific Ocean^ i^c^ 
 
 Ince. 
 
 |liza« 
 and 
 the 
 
 |ncG€ 
 
 I'n- 
 
 *tors 
 
 tten- 
 
 liser- 
 
 at 
 
 TSt. Francisco. Apartments in the square, in which the 
 priests resided were appropriated to a number of young 
 female Indians, which w-erc selected and educated for 
 the same reasons as those at the former mission. They 
 cultivate wheat, maize, peas and bea»ns, the latter being 
 produced ioi gr^at variety, and the whole in greater 
 abundance than their necessities require. 
 
 In this country the Oak, as timber, appears to take 
 the lead. A tree of this description, near the establish- ' 
 ment, measured- fifteen feet in the girth ; and the Cap- 
 tain was confident tliat on their Journey thither, they 
 passed several of greater magnitude. The timber of 
 these oaks is reputed to be equal in quality to any pro- 
 duced in Eutope. 
 
 At t\ie famous Port of Monterrey, so distinguished by 
 the Spaniards, the Captain had the satisfaction to find 
 liis friend Signior Quadra, wTien, after reciprocal civi-» 
 lities and tlie usual naval ceremonies had passed between 
 them, the Spaniard informed him, that he had receiv- 
 ed orders from his Court to capture all vessels he 
 should find engaged in commercial pursuits on this coast, 
 'excepi the vessels belonging to the people of Great 
 Bril-ir, who were to proceed without the least inter- 
 ruption or molestation. These orders induced both 
 gentlemen to believe that their respective Sovereigns 
 had adjusted, and finally concluded every arrangement 
 with respect to the territories at Nootka ; and this opi- 
 nion cemented still more closely their personal attach- 
 ment. 
 
 Captain Vancouver now judged it proper to forward 
 fresh dispatches to the Admiralty, as it was only by 
 such communications, that any just or reasonable con- 
 clusion could be drawn, either in respect to the national 
 advantages which were likely to result from a further 
 prosecution of commercial pursuits in these regions, or 
 t)f the most proper situations for the purpose of esta- 
 blishing permanent establishments on the coast, to 
 protect and facilitate the trade if carried into execution. 
 
 G He 
 
 ',i 
 
f^ 
 
 l-'^ 
 
 
 m 
 
 €« 
 
 Vancouver's Voyage of Discovery 
 
 He had likewise obtained the possession of all the chart* 
 of the Spanish discoveries to the northward of his own 
 researches. 
 
 Lieutenant Broughton w^s entrusted with these docu- 
 ments, and the liberal conduct of the Spanish Comman- 
 der upon this occasion deserves recital in Captain Van- 
 couver's own words: "On this occasion, I requested 
 ^ignior Quadra, if it were compatible with his inclina- 
 tion, and the disposition of the Spanish Court, that 
 iMr. Broughton should be permitted to take his passage 
 by the way of New Spain to l^ngland. To this Signior 
 Quadra, without the leaa. hesitation, and in the most 
 friendly manner, replied, that Mr. Ikoughton might 
 accompany him to St. Bliis, where lie would supply 
 hiiii with moi^ey, and every other requisite in his power, 
 which could contribute to render his laborious journey 
 across the continent of America as pleasant as could be 
 expected from the nature of the undertaking." Bcforjc 
 his departure Mr. Broughton also had the satisfaction 
 of accompanying the two Commanders and several 
 English and Spanish ofticers on an agreeable excursion 
 io St. Carlos near Monterioy. 
 
 This establishment la situated about a league to the 
 south eastward of the presidio of Monterrey. The 
 road bet'.vcen them, lies over some atecp hills and hol- 
 low vallies, interspersed with many trees : the surface 
 ■was coveicd over with an agreeable verdure : the 
 general character of the country was lively, and their 
 journey altogether very pleasant. On their arrival at 
 the entrance of the Mission, the bells were rung, and 
 their reception convinced them of the satisfaction and 
 ^oy which the reverend fathers felt at their, approach. 
 The plan, architecture, and materials of tijesc build- 
 ings, were similar to those at St. Francisco, and St. 
 Clara, but that they were smaller. The garden was 
 also on the same corfmcd scale, and cultivated in the 
 same manner. There was an Indian village in this 
 neighbourhood, which appeared but small, yet the 
 
 number 
 
 1^ 
 
To the North Pac-ific Ocean, ¥• 
 
 u 
 
 Ln to receive any ^^ °^f e" hments from t.me to 
 of the stores, cattle, and reir ^^^^ ,^g .-om- 
 
 tirae delivered for the use of *« ^^ J, ;, ,croonstrances 
 mand of faptain Vancouver and .au. ^^^ , ,hat 
 toAis effect only produced tto g-- 
 th« only ««'«»'«' "ir^tere accommodated to the 
 «as thai of seeing *«y.^" supply the country 
 extent of their «>''\<^«:, "* /„ 'ment'Vould .l>c most 
 could bestow, and '^^^ [^''^uecess attendmg every 
 amply madt, by *''^P""1'°. .hcv had either received 
 
 for their own use, or *at «ere ^^^.^ ^^^„,jc- 
 
 noses. Itisthemo.ee»ent.alto .^^^^_^^^^„^ ,^ 
 
 ?ion as our "ay.ga or mot « h a y ^^^^^ ^^^^ 
 
 a rude reception m the mouthji ^^^_^ they an-- 
 
 the then c^T ' a Iv h"the same spot, and .n 
 chored .n the Bay, neaOy •« F.ancisco, where 
 
 the vicinity ot the Pc«aK> .^^^ i^nns ^k>^ 
 
 '^2:iiroZ^^^^^l^-'^' of the preceamg 
 n-y .he instruaions from th« Lords of the Ad-mr^^y 
 Capuun Vancouver was to ^"P-*^ „, ,t ,ome o tl^ 
 Dxdalus storesh.p either at ^" „ ,„„ch ol her 
 
 Sandwich islands, she ""Vrhatham might 'var.t, and 
 
 ca ^o as the D'^^-'^'yj^f ,„mand till he should 
 aftc' wards to rcmamundeih., tor ^ ^^^^1^ „, 
 
 Lge it convenient to. send her ^ f.^e Colony 
 
 iatrte, and other V^^^^^^ %,, Daedalus arrived 
 atl'ort Jackson .n Botany "ay ^^ CaptamVan- 
 
ir,&* 
 
 
 6i 
 
 I 
 
 : W i 
 
 Ml 
 
 Vancouve/s Voyage o/D&cmert^ 
 
 DaeHalus proceeded from Owhyhee, where Mr. Hergc&t 
 Tcceived the orders Captain Vancouver had left there 
 for hiin, tb the N. W. side of Woahoo; on the 7th of 
 May 17p2, she arrived in the bay, and Mr. Hergest 
 at first determined not to anchor there^ as he consi- 
 dered the inliabitants of that neighbourhood to be the 
 most savage and deceitful of any amongst the Sandwich 
 islands ; but unfortunately he afterwards receded from 
 his former wise rcsohition, and ordered the ship to be 
 anchored. The cutter was hoisted out and veered astern 
 for the convenience of purchasing water from the 
 natives, but before three casks were filled, which was- 
 soon done, he ordered the cutter alongfide, the full 
 casks to be taken out and replaced by empty ones ; and 
 then accompanied by Mr. Goodly he went on shore, 
 and another boat was hoisted out for the purpose of 
 obtaining water; while those on board continued 
 making purchases of refreshments until near darki At 
 this time the cutter returned, with only five people 
 instead of the eight who had gone on shore in her, 
 from whom was learned the distrescifig iatelligence, 
 that Mr. Ilergest, Mr. Gooch the astronomer, ahJd two 
 of the boat's crew being landed unarmed with tvKo of 
 the water casks to fill, their defenceless situation was 
 pcrceivtid by the natives who immediately attacked 
 them, killed one of the people, and carried off the two 
 gentlemen. The other seaman, b<ing a very stout 
 active man, made his escape through a great number of 
 these savageis, fled to the boat, and with two otUvirs 
 landed again, with two muskets, and with an intentioB 
 to rescue their officers, and recover the body of their 
 messmate. They socn perceived that both Mr. Hergest 
 and Mr. Gooch were yet alive amongst a vast concourse 
 of inhabitants, who were stripping them, and forcing 
 them up the hills- behind the village : they endeavoured 
 to gfet near the multitude, but were so assailed by 
 stones from the croud, who had now gained the sur- 
 rounding hills, thiit they were under the painful hcces- 
 :;, # sity 
 
To the North Pacific Oceartf Sf^c. 
 
 €5 
 
 sity of retiring; and as night was fast approaching^ 
 they thought it most advisable to return on board. 
 Mr. New immediately assembled all the officers, to 
 consult with them what was best to be done. It was 
 agreed to stand off and on with the ship during the 
 night, and in the morning to send the cutter well 
 manned and armed on shore, and if possible to recover 
 their unfortunate commander anu his companion. Au 
 old Chief belonging to Attaiwai, who had been on 
 board since the Daedalus entered the Bay, went also in 
 the boat as an interpreter, and to employ his good 
 offices. He was first landed, and went towards the 
 natives, of whom he demanded the absent gentlemen; 
 on which he was informed that they were both killed 
 the preceding night. Having delivered this message, 
 he was sent ba-^k to demand their bodies ; but was told 
 in reply, that ti.ey had been cut in pieces, and divided 
 amongst seven different chiefs. 
 
 In consequence of this horrid transaction. Captain 
 Vancouver resolved on a second visit to the Sandwich 
 Islands, for the express purpose of seeking for, and punish- 
 ing the murderers. Accordingly he sailed for VVoahoo, 
 but 'understanding that the murderers resided near 
 Whytiete Bay, he proceeded to Whytiete, where they 
 anchored, Wednesday, JNIarch 20, about 3 o'clock, in 
 10 fathoms. 
 
 They now met with James Coleman in a double canoe : 
 this man had quitted Mr. Kendrick's employ, and had 
 entered into the service of Titeeree, who had stationed 
 him in this island in order to regulate the trade, and to 
 assist such vessels as might touch at Woahoo for refresh- 
 ments ; Coleman was accompanied by a chief, named 
 Tennavce, and a lad called Tohoobooarte. This lad 
 stated that he had received much civility from Mr. 
 licrgest, and the rest of the gentlemen, on his visitl.ig 
 the Daedalus, at Whymea Bay, on the opposite side of 
 this island : that when Mr. Hergest and Mr. Gooch were 
 going on shore, he accompanied them in the boat to 
 
 G J assist 
 
if 
 
 4 
 
 J ..i 
 
 
 I'- 
 
 J • 
 
 66 
 
 P^dneouver^s Voyage ofPtscwxry 
 
 it^sist as interpfc^tcr :" that when he arrived at the beaclij 
 he advised Mr. Hefgest by no means to land ; telling 
 him that there was no chief present, and that it was a 
 part of th(i island where a great many very bad people 
 rosidcd: no attention was paid to his advice, they went 
 on shore; and ifter taking some measures without anjr 
 opposition for procuring a supply of water, Mr. liergest 
 left some directions with bis people, and then, <iontrary 
 to the advice of this youug man, went with Mr. Gooch 
 from the sea side up to tbe habitations of the natives^ 
 ■who behaved to them in a friendly mianner. At thi» 
 time Tohoobooartc had left them in order to wash him- 
 self in the fresh water Cthis being a prevailing custom 
 on landing after being ^ome time at sea) and whilst the 
 gientlemcn were absent, a dispute arose at the watering 
 place between the natives and the people of the Daedalus^ 
 from which \\ affray ensued, and the Portegucse sea* 
 man was killed. That tiH this unfortunate transactionv 
 iw> molestation had been offered, when, to prevent 
 revenge taking place, it was thought necessary to put 
 to death the chiefs that they then had in their power ; 
 and tliat in pursuance of this horrid resolution-, Mr. 
 Gooch was instantly killed, by being stabbed through 
 tlie heart with a pahooa : that the first blow only wounded 
 Mr. Hergest, who in endeavouring to make his way 
 towards the boat was knocked down by a large stone, 
 hitting him on the side of-his head, and was then mur- 
 dered in a most barbarous manner. The man wh6 
 stabbed Mr. Gooch, the one wlro first wounded Mr» 
 Hergest, and another who had been principally con- 
 cerned at thti watering place, had been, he said, appre* 
 bended by Titeeree's orders and been put to death. 
 
 This lad to assure the captain of his having been 
 present, and having interfered to save Mr. Hergest, 
 pointed out the scar of a wound in his left arm, which 
 he said he had received on that occasion; and further 
 lidded, that the man who knocked him down and mur*- 
 llcred Mr. Hergest, with two oi three others, materially 
 
 concerned, 
 
 t% 
 
 :i 1 
 
To the Korth Pacific Ocrtm, ^a. 
 
 et 
 
 concerned, were still living, and resided not far from 
 tiie place where they had anchored. The former of these 
 he had pointed out a few days before to Coleman. 
 Coleman on being interrogated by the Captain if ever 
 he heard this young n\an relate this melancholy story 
 before, answered in the affirmative, and added that ho 
 told him it precisely in the same words. 
 
 Tomohomoko now questioned Tohoobooarte about the 
 residence of the offenders, and desired both him and Tcn- 
 navee to accompany him ifor the purpose of apprehending 
 and bringing them to justice. This lad at first declined, 
 dreading the resentment of their friends and relations, 
 but on being assured of Tomohomoko's protection, ho 
 consented, and the whole party repaired to the shore. 
 
 The next forenoon (March 21) Coleman with Tomo- 
 homoko and Tennavee camo on board. The Captain 
 perceiving no appearance of any prisoner in the canoe, 
 enquired of Coleman if the murderers were in custody. 
 He answered that the business after landing the precede* 
 ing evening was conducted by the chiefs with so much 
 secresy, that he could not be possitive, but that ho 
 believed they were. He had seen nothing of the party 
 during the whole of tlie night, nor till they were about 
 to put eff from the beach, when he jumped into the 
 stern of the canoe. The two chiefs now desired the 
 Captain to attend them mto the cabin; where, ^fter 
 shutting all the doors, they informed him that the man 
 who had mnrdered Mr. Hergest, and two others who had 
 been equally active and guilty, were in the forepart of 
 the canoe, and that no time should he lost in securing 
 them, lest any thing should transpire, and they should 
 again make their escape; accordingly orders weix; given 
 for their admittance, and they were immediately broughl 
 into the cabin. 
 
 The chiefs now pointed out the principal offenders, 
 whose appearance corresponded with Tolioobooarte'i 
 description. One half of his body from his forehead to 
 lis feet was made jet black by punctuating; the othef 
 
 
>if 
 
 :^f< 
 
 ■^ ■*itr^tvTj«r»**»»-*:^ 
 
 
 ^8 
 
 Vancouver s Voyage ofDiscoioy 
 
 
 if/! 
 
 
 f^ 
 
 two ofiehclpi's were marked in the same manner, but not 
 with the same rcguUirity ; but as several of Titecrce's 
 subjects were disfigured after tiic same barbarous fashion 
 during war time, these appearances alone would not 
 have been sufficient to have identified their persons. 
 The lad, Tohoohooarto was not present as a witness 
 against the accused persons ; his absence was very much 
 regretted by the Captain, but as there was great pro- 
 bability that Coleman's evidence would confirm what 
 the chiefs had assr-tod, he was' called in, who, after 
 stedfastly surveying, .heir persons, pointed out the same 
 man whom the chieio had accused as the murderer of 
 Mr. Ilergest, but denied any knowledge of the other 
 two. 
 
 The Captain, notwithstanding Coleman*s corrobora- 
 tive evidence, still wished for further proof, before he 
 sanctioned tljeir punishment ; and having been informed 
 that Mr. Dobson, one of the midshipmen, who came 
 out in the Djedalus,- had spoken of one of the natives, 
 who, when alongside on that occasion, had been re- 
 marked for his insolense and improper behaviour; and 
 who, the instant the boat, with Mr. Hergest, put off 
 from the sljip, had paddled hastiiiy to the shore, where 
 he landed, became very active in the afiVay, and was 
 in the unanimous opinion of the crew, -svispected to 
 have been the principal, if not the sole causv; cf the 
 calamity that ensued j Mr. Dobson was immediately 
 called, and asked if he had any recollection of the pri- 
 soners; and without the least hesitation, he pointed o\it 
 the very man who had been also -pointed o\it by Cole- 
 man, and was ready to make oath to his identity. 
 
 As the evidence of Tohoohooarto would still be ari 
 additional confirmation, the Captain desired Tennavee to 
 repair to the shore, and bring him on board, tliat tho 
 prisoners might have a fair trial. In the mean time, 
 the prisoners were ordered into confinement. t 
 
 This delay of punishment displeased Tomohomoko, 
 who wibhed that they should be immediately executed ; 
 
 but 
 
To the Nforth Pacific Ocean, SfC, 
 
 but tlioughthe prooffe were so circumstantial as td leave 
 little doubt of the guilt of one, the Captain chose to 
 wait till further testimonies should be produced to crimi- 
 nate or acquit them. 
 
 Tomohomoko, on being questioned by the Captain' 
 respecting a fourth man, who had been implicated ii>^ 
 the murd'^r, acknowledged that there was a fourth, who' 
 had been very materially concerned, but said that alt 
 he could learn about him was, that he had been seen ini 
 the neighbourhood some months before, and as he bad 
 not lately made his appearance, it was by no means cer*: 
 tain whether hO was then on the Island, or had gone to 
 some of the others* As there appeared little probability ' 
 of this man's being taken^ especially when the' ncw»of: 
 the three others being iii custody, was spread abi!oad« 
 the Captain did not insist upon any fuither search,, un* 
 wiUing indeed to adopt any measures of force to effect 
 an object, v^hich the wftnt of time might afterward»- 
 oblige hira to leave unaccomplished. 
 
 Tennavee having returned without Tohoobooarto, in^ 
 tLe afternoon, the Captain was as much concerned as 
 surprized, and ^apprehended that some misconduct was 
 the occasion of his absence : but he wa» assured by the 
 chiefs, that it was the dread of the delinquents^ relations 
 atid friends, which prevented his nttendance. As the 
 Captain now despaired qf his evidence he was deter- 
 mined on learning from Trytooboory, the chief of the 
 Island, if it was his opinion that the prisoners wero 
 guilty. As this chief's indisposition prevented him from 
 coming on board, the Captain desired Terrehooa (who 
 had been twelve months on board with him and could 
 not be at all interested in any event that might tlike^ 
 place) to accompany Coleman, and make this enquiry 
 of Trytooboory. ; 
 
 These orders having been obeyed, they returned in 
 the evening, and Terrehooa declared, that the chief 
 had positively pronounced all thncc of the pi^isoncrs to 
 
 ho- 
 
 rn 
 
ro 
 
 P'ancouver's Voyage of Discovery 
 
 
 ;!«:*'' 
 
 hi 
 
 ■■t I 
 
 
 be guilty of the murder, of which they were accused ; 
 and that it was his request they should immediately 
 suffer death foi- their offence. This declaration was 
 sworn to by Coleman, in the most solemn manner, in 
 the presence of the Captain, and all the officers of the 
 ■ship, who had attended the investigaton of this business 
 from the beginning, and who, having materially consi- 
 dered it, were, in conjunction with the Captain, una- 
 nimously of opinion, that justice demanded an exein- 
 plary punishment, in order to stop, or at least to check, 
 •uch barbarous proceedings in future. 
 
 During the examination, it was clearly proved, by 
 the testimonies of all the natives who had been ques- 
 tioned, that neither those two unfortunate gentlemen, 
 nor the people in the boats, had given the least provo* 
 cation for the outrage. No other witnesses could be 
 procured; and as the persons in custody had been ap- 
 prehended, accused and couvinccd "by their onw neigh- 
 bours, and condemned to suffer death by their own 
 chiefs, rt was after the most serious deUberation and 
 reflection, on the part of the Captain and officers, 
 deemed sufficient to authorize their execution, which, 
 as the day was far spent, was deferred till the next - 
 morning, contrary to the wishes of the chiefs. 
 
 In order to render the ceremony as solemn and 
 awful as possible, a guard of seamen and marines were 
 drawn up on that side of the ship, opposite to the shore, 
 where, along side, of the Vessel, a canoe was stationed 
 for the execution. The rest of the crew were in readi- 
 ness at the great guns, lest any disturbance should take 
 place. A ceremony still remained to be performed, 
 which shocked Captain Vancouver very much. One of 
 these poor wretches had long hair, which for the pur- 
 pose of being presented, as a customary tribute on- 
 such occasions, to the King of the island, was to be 
 cut off previous to his execution. The two chiefs in 
 the rudest manner, not only cut off the hair, but 
 in the prdseuce of the unfortunate man, and without 
 
 * the 
 
 iiij 
 
 «;? 
 
-J" -Ti-irri r 
 
 '!,•■■ 
 
 a- 
 
 J'le Eaxcuiwn. of the lAree Scu/ct(^€& /hf^lie mun/er o/^ 
 
 Lon<|..a J:'il'..\pril I'.' li^i"-/ l.v I.L-f . 
 
 lM 
 
To the North Paci/k Ocean, t^ c. 
 
 ft 
 
 the least compassion for his situation, bei;an to quarrel 
 and strive for the honour of presenting this prize 
 to the king. As soon as ti)is shameful contest was 
 settled, the criminals were taken one l>y one, into 
 a double canoe, where they were lashed hand and foot, 
 and put to death by 'i Vnnuvee, their own chief, who 
 blew out their brains widi a pistol, r:)d so dexterously 
 was the melancholy oflirc performed, that life fled with 
 the report of the pistol, and muscular motion seemed 
 almost instantly to cease. In the performance of this 
 duty, Tennavec appeared totally devoid of the least 
 
 agitation. 
 
 Captain Vancouver still retained the good will of the 
 chiefs and inhalatants : but he did not consider it pru- 
 dent, whiUt tiie execution of the criminals was sa 
 fresh in the minils of the people to throw temptations of 
 revenge jn the way of the indisposed, by placing him- 
 srlf and othc^s in their power, on shore. 
 
 During this, the Captain's second visit to the Society, 
 and the Sandwich Islands, he found at Owhyhee, two 
 Knglishmen, Young and Davis, who resided on the ni<)st 
 ftiendly footing with 'rainaahmah, King of the Island, 
 and by their influence our Navigators vvere treated 
 witli the greatest cordiality, and supplied with every 
 necessary they wanted. Davis was Mate of the schoonej . 
 belonging to young Metcalf. He gave the captain an 
 ample and correct relation of the murder of his ship- 
 mates, of his own escape, and of the treacherous con- 
 duct of Tiana, a rei>tless and turbulent Chief, who was 
 continually forming plots to destroy the European and 
 American traders, after seizing their ships, but was 
 over-ruled, and uniformly opposed by the King, whose 
 characCtn' is liighly extolled by Captain Vancouver. 
 
 On account of Lieutenant liroughtun's departure for 
 England, with the dispatches, the command of the 
 Chatham devolved to Lieutenant Puget. March 30, 
 they l)ad adieu for the present to the Sandwich islands, 
 4;id sailed to the northward. The Chatham, as on the 
 
 former 
 
■sf 
 
 ■w 
 
 !72 
 
 Vancmiver's Vot/age ef Discovery 
 
 former voyage, was detached to take a different track 
 from tlic Discovery, and the rendezvous was fixed to 
 he at Nootka, where she arrived first. Lieutenant 
 Pugct, after repairing some damage tlie keel of his 
 vessel had sustained, and leaving with a Spanish officer^ 
 by whom they were faithfully delivered, a letter, jour- 
 nal, and other papers for the Captain, . he pursued his 
 voyage alone to the north-west coast of America. Few 
 occurrences worthy of particular notice had taken place 
 during Mr. Puget's separation; but at Nootka Captain 
 Vancouver found another opportunity to forward dis- 
 patches to the Admiralty, containing a brief abstract 
 of their transactions from the commencement to the 
 month of May. The Discovery joined the Chatham in 
 Fitzhugh's Sound, the latter end of this month, wlicn 
 they again found it necessary to lay to, in a place 
 called Resolution Cove, for repairs to the Discovery, 
 and during their stay there, two boat exursions were 
 made into the country, by a canal which they thought 
 proper to name Burke's Canal, in honour of the 
 ctilebratcd Edmund Burke : they were now in latitude 
 5 r 56|' N. longitude 232° 9'. Many of the inhabitants 
 visited them in a friendly manner, and appeared to be 
 of a dift'erent race from those they had seen to the 
 southward, used a different language, and were totally 
 unacquainted with that of Nootka : they brought skins 
 for sale: amongst them was that of the animal from 
 whence the wool is procured, and with which tbe woollen 
 garments worn by the inhabitants of north-west America 
 arc made. 
 
 Those of the women who appeared of the most con- 
 sequence had adopted a very singular mode of orna- 
 menting their faces. A horizontal incision is made 
 about three tenths of an inch below the upper part of 
 the under lip, extending from one corner of the mouth 
 to the other, entirely through the flesh ; this ori^ce is 
 then by degrees stretched sufficiently to admit an orna- 
 ment made of wood, which is confined close to the 
 
 gums 
 
 t 
 
To the Nbrth Pad/ic Ocean j Spc. 
 
 n 
 
 I 
 
 ^ms of the lower jaws, and whose external smfacd 
 projects horizontally. Th^se wooden ornaments are 
 oval, and various sizes, some about two inches and a 
 half, others three inches and four tenths in length, and 
 an inch and a half broad ; the smallest decreased in 
 breadth in proportion to their length. They are about 
 four tenths of an inch in thickness, and have a groove 
 «'ilong the middle of the outside edge, for the purpose 
 of receiving the divided lip. These hideou* api)endagcs 
 are made of fir, and neat-ly .polished, but present a 
 most unnatural aj)i>earance and are an instance of 
 human absurdity, that would scarcely be credited with- 
 out ocular proof. In the evening of the 17th of June, 
 the Chatham's cutter, and the Discovery's cutter 
 returned from an excursion, which, besides having 
 been very fatiguing and labonous, was rendered very 
 ilistrcssing by the melancholy loss of one of their sea- 
 men, who had been unfortunately poisoned by eating 
 muscles. Two or three others of the party narrowly 
 escaped the same fate. 
 
 The fatal place, they named Poiso'!^ Cove, and-fhe 
 branch leading to it Muscle Canal, in latitude 52' 
 48', longitude 23 P 42'. 
 
 The survey of the coasts -along the continental shores 
 by the ships, find of the various arras, inlets, and 
 canals, was pursued with the greatest accuracy, and 
 indefatigable research with boats under the direction of 
 different officers, in which sonwj adventures with the sa- 
 vages, notaltogctl»erof a pleasing nature occurred, during 
 the Months of July and August. Early in September 
 they terminated their discoveries for that year, in a port 
 which th«y named Port Stewart, after one of their 
 mates, situated in latitude 55** 38': but it appears that 
 they had extended their survey to a point, which they 
 ;called Point Hood, in honour of the present Lord 
 Bridpoit, in latitude 56« 44', longitude 227* H'- They 
 then proceeded southward and arrived the third time at 
 Nootko, on the 5th of October, but made no longer 
 
 H stay 
 
 
Ill 
 
 m 
 
 l^: i 
 
 -■ ,t 
 
 I 
 
 r* 
 
 F^tncouver's Voyage of Discovery 
 
 stay tlian to leave- a letter with the Commandant for 
 the guidance of the Master of the Daodalus, or of 
 any other vessel that might arrive there with stores for 
 the Discovery and the Chatham. Proceeding still 
 southward, the Chatham was sent to Port Bodega, 
 from which station siie repaired to Port Francisco, 
 where she found the Discovery, and Mr. Paget gave aii 
 account of his proceedings. Here they met with the 
 Daedalus. But Captain Vancouver experienced such 
 a coolness on the part of the new Spanish Governor, 
 that he thought proper to leave the place as soon as he 
 had procured a supply of wood and water. At Mon- 
 terrey they found a similar change of afl'airs, and the 
 Governor sent Captain Vancouver a letter from his 
 predecessor Signior Quacia, in which he gave him to 
 understand tliat the civilities he had shewn the Ca{)taiji 
 were 'jnly for that time, and were not to be considered 
 as necessiiry to be shewn him in future, neither did his 
 Excellency expect the English ships would repair a 
 second time to the ports under his jurisdiction. Thus 
 circumstanced 'our Commander resolved to pay a third 
 visit to the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 It is remarkable that Karakakoo Bay, in which ths 
 truly celebrated Captain Cook fell u sacrifice to the 
 savage fury of the natives, should, in ihf^ third visit of 
 Vancouver, have proved an asylum, whore the hospitable 
 reception and friendly treatment were such as could not 
 have been surpassed by the mos' i MghtcneH nation upon 
 earth. A dramatical and musicrl entertainment was 
 performed by the natives for ihe amusement of the 
 Captain and other Brjtic'h oihter* belonging to the Dis- 
 covery, the Chatham, and ihc Dajdalus, whilst their 
 crows were employed in the several services in the Bay, 
 of refitting the vessels, and taking in supphes of stores 
 an*.^ provisions, in which they were assisted by these 
 friendly Indians. A ceremony also took place in a 
 formal and coiuplele cession (»f the who'e Island to his 
 Majesty, his heirs, and successors. This being fmishctl, 
 
 a salute 
 
 3 
 
To the mrthTaclfic Ocean, Src.' 
 
 7"^ 
 
 » aftPf which the foP 
 , salute «a. fired from tKe vesse s after^ , . ^ 
 
 lowing inscription o\'="Pf„, ' idence. "Oathe25tlt 
 rorllcuous place atthcro>aUcsiden ^ ,, |,ee, irt 
 
 FebrCy 179*, '''''."'^.'''"J'^tff of'the Island, asscm- , 
 council with the P"n?^'P''\^ M;-e!tv's sloop Discoveryi 
 Hed on board his ^"''^"'".^/'tence of George Van^ 
 " KarakaWo Bay ; '^"f.f %r„„p., Lieutenant Vetcr 
 couver* Commander ot the said »• 1^ , j ,(.„der 
 
 Vug.1 Commanlcr of h« sa d Maj^-^^ ^^^ ,y , 
 
 the Chatham ; and the °«'«' °?' ,„„s,„ ceded the said 
 Itr due coa,idera..on «-— ^ Majesty and 
 Wand' of 0«hyhee to to» f'^.„,tsotGreatBr. tain^ 
 
 -r^dert^s^- rsitttt: '^x 
 
 commenced the putsmt of theut^ 1^ ^^ ^ ^, 
 
 we of the Sandwich Islands "J^'^^i^ lost sight of 
 ,7ql In a few days sa.hng. 'he ^«P ^ ,-,„„ i,.nv 
 h'eChatham. conjectured to have^^^;,.^^i„ ,,,e„ o, 
 hv foaay weather, and it «.«™e^ . ^,. ^s the D.s- 
 leSey should m«t »g-^;Xwestern quarter 
 covevy met wuh a fje h gak r^^^ ^^ ,hat 
 
 viihich made her P™"]" .^i the latitude of 50 10 , 
 on the -30th the;, ^*j J^'arco-itinuing very gloortiy, 
 longitude 2050 9'; the weather co J^^. ji,^t ,vaJ 
 rdtheclimateassumin: a degree ^^ ^^^ 
 
 „e„ »o them ; for "'« "":i!"„'^duiing the voyage, the 
 point, and,- for the fi';»"^^J„". fjothing happened 
 Scuttle cask "\f,f.''"tr Wed in Cook's River, when 
 worthy notice, till they arr. ^ jmn-'-diatcly to 
 
 Captrin Vancouver r^^^l^^^^Zl^l,^ Navigato.'s re- 
 the furthest extent «*''"""„"„„ his examination 
 • «:rches,a„d f--'„^:r,„:sa direct- accor^^^^ 
 
Vancouv€r*s Voyage of Discovery 
 
 In 
 
 fii 
 
 this river terminated, not many miles beyond their 
 examinations, in a spacious bason or harbour. The 
 service of procuring wood and water was frequently 
 interrupted by floating ice of considerable magnitude, 
 which, by the rapidity of the tides, endangered thn boats, 
 Tcquiriring the utmost caution to prevent their being 
 crushed. The aatives *ho came on board the ship, or 
 visited and accompanied the boats in their canoes, ap- 
 peared to be friendly and ho<-pitable, acquainted with 
 the European manners, and ready to render them every 
 service on shore, and during their researches on the 
 river. Ijaving at length clearly discovered that this 
 reputed river was in fact only an extensive arm of the 
 sea, the Captain gave it the nan.e of Cook's In let. 
 
 Mr. VVhidbey, with two boats, was dispached previous 
 to their quitting this station, to examine the river Turn- 
 again, a branch of Cook's Inlet, and in the mean time 
 the Discoveiy was in the utmost diinger through the 
 drift of ice, which had formed one connected field from 
 side to side. In this situation the Captr.in was visited 
 
 by t«n Ru§$ian§ md abgut twenty Indjaos, whg cxpie§s«d 
 
 their apprehensions for the saAjty of the ship, and fre- 
 quently asked if she did not make much water. From 
 the Russians he had received intelligence respecting th« 
 inlet and its branches, as well as the surrounding shores, 
 which confirmed his own observations and researches,, 
 and fully proved that the dangerous anchorage they 
 were in was not in a river but in an arm of the sea, which 
 finally closed about fifteen Russian vovsit bcyorKl th« 
 station he had taken. They also informed him, that the 
 Russfans had several establishments on thcs« coasts, the 
 pri^icipal of which was in Prince William's Sound, at a 
 port called Etch«8, and they endeavoured to imprrsj* 
 him with a« idea, that the Anwrican Continent and 
 adjacent Islands, as far as the meridian of Kaye's Island, 
 belonged exchuively to the Russian Kmpiri!. 
 
 The report made by Mr. Whidbey on his return, 
 afar m\ itbscucc of seven days, corroborated the cir- 
 cumstance 
 
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To the North P*cijic Oceon, i>c. 
 
 I t 
 
 eumstance of the R«-'- ^f'-^^rS t^mlSo" 
 „ated their extreme jcatousy^o ^^^^ 
 
 between his P^'J ""\*^! S a« their slaves. Mr. 
 appeared to cons.der ''»<1 ««f * ,o«aris Pomt Pos- 
 \Vhidbey had continued »'' .'"7 io„„i,ude 2 W 1»- 
 Ision, situated in I'' ■ ?*^,t,„f ^fe Point they vyere 
 At about seven mile distant «""' {t^e Bood tid V 
 
 iVged to stop, at the co— «™;t°e able to dis.o- 
 fotthe whole space, « ^ ^ 'M^ ^^h an immense 
 ver any objects, «as '"^^"^ Jfrom each other, on 
 numbeJ of conical ^ocks. d't^f '"^"^ extended a league 
 banks of sand and small stones, in ^^^^^ „, 
 
 IZ upwards from the shore. So ^ ^^^ ^j 
 
 cuinspcction was required ^° ^°\^^ ii,ey grounded on 
 the™eda.«5erous Py/»"»<l^^,f ^hhe fa -ng tide, nothing 
 any of them with the '»P»''')' "^^^a have been expected, 
 n than instant df ""'^''""^l ^^on appeared to jom 
 This very extraordinary ""^f "J^hich the Resolution . 
 the SoutLrn side of *« '^<«L'' ^"".^rhence it must b» 
 bad grounded '» ?'« ^^ 'Smstance, that neither 
 (on^dercd a. a f»f "»f ''uaTattempt.^ to pasB o» 
 Captain Cook nor tins party haU a 
 the South side of that shoal. completing, which 
 
 %'hiUt the wood '^.f^;'"^ j:rcomplishing, Captain 
 the ice liad prevented tliem f«"".%ri„cipal officers, set 
 Vancouver, accoinpatued by h« P" V ^^^^^,^i their 
 
 out with the yawl «f *"*" '"" s^ore. and they wero 
 exainination along. *« \^^Zl little distance from 
 not long i^d«='T'";"% formerly sounded, the shoaU, 
 the Bl»c« "^ire they liad '"™'^"'„„.,,ed the two shorw 
 «bict^« ary at low w.«e^ J«\, as they f<«md 
 together; they P^f^-^t -he b^ats, and fmnd, >is the/ 
 Z channel .«»>g»b»« "' '^^ a.a the Western shorn 
 advanced to tl<« North U'J. «„ ,v,ore, ,„d they 
 "„auallv inclined towards "'"r^, jj Captain Cook 
 5,"^e ,, l^gM» Mly ^""""'f^thet-ther examination 
 S dciicatS^one day "XV /pav d t*"' '^'°'T^ 
 ,* this inlet, " Uo wo«tW a'"* *P JJavigatots, 
 
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 7S 
 
 Vancouter*s Voyage of Discovery 
 
 
 :: 
 
 
 ';> 
 
 Navigators, who have followed him in their closets, the 
 task oi ingeniously ascribing to this arm of the ocean 
 a channel, through which a Nmth West passage exist- 
 ing, according to theix doctrin|s, might ultimately be 
 discovered." The final termination of Cook's Inlet, at 
 its Northern extremity, was now found to be in latitude 
 61° 29', longitude 21 P 1?'. The party returned to the 
 ship on the 7th of May l/.O^, and found the Chatham 
 at anchor, when Lieutenant Puget came on board, and* 
 gave an account of the principal occurrences which had 
 happened on board the Chatham since their separation, 
 occasioned by the vessel receiving four feet water in her 
 hold, from labouring extremely under a press of sail, 
 with a very heavy irregular sea, to endeavour to keep 
 up with the Discovery. Mr. Puget, according to his 
 instructions in case of separation, had continued his 
 examination of the Western side of the inlet from Cape 
 Douglas to their present station, which was the appoint- 
 ed rendezvous, and found it to be a compact shore, 
 without any collateral branches or navigable openings 7 
 and his documents corroborated the decision that 
 Captain Vancouver had made, of there being no North 
 west passage through any p.".rt of this inlet. 
 
 On the 15th, they took leave of this inlet, and direct- 
 ed their course to Prince William's Sound, which they 
 had been infc rmed was connected with one branch of it, 
 named by thorn Turnagain RiVfR; accordingly, 
 thtiy made their survey of that sound in boats, and 
 found in it different Russian establishments, and met 
 with a friendly reception both iVom the Russians and 
 the natives. The Chatham was dispatched to continue 
 the survey of the coast Eastward from Cape Hinchin- 
 brook, whilst the Disc4>very, quitting Prince William's 
 Sound) proceeded to the examination of the exterior 
 coast, and arrived at Cross Sound, where the Chatham 
 rejoined her. Cross Sound is a very spacious arm of 
 the ocean. The examination of the Islands, Points, 
 and liays, was coiiiidcd to the caru of Mr. WUidbey and 
 
 his 
 
 
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To the Korth Pacific Ocearty S^c. 
 
 79 
 
 tis party in boats, who narrowly escaped being plun- 
 dered and having their boiits taken from them by a 
 Rumerous tribe of Indians, who under the disguise of 
 offered friendship, surrounded them with their canoes, 
 and were provided with lire-arras, which they pointed 
 at Mr. Whidbey in such a manner as shewed their dc" 
 signs to be hostile ; yet, Observing that the boats were 
 well prepared and rerdy to act on the defensive, they 
 retreated, though their number amounted to at least 
 two hundred. Their survey northward was now com- 
 pleted, and both vessels returning Southward along the 
 exterior coast of what they had named King George 
 the Third's Archipelago, they arrived fn a port, to 
 which the captain gave the name of Port Conclu- 
 sion ; for here, the indefatigable labours of three 
 years were terminated by a completion of the survey of 
 the wliole coast of North West America; the final 
 service having been performed by Mr. Whidbey in a 
 boat excursion from this port, consisting of four boats 
 well manned. Those parties visited several Islands, 
 and passed a number of Points and Capes, to which 
 diftbrent names were assigned by Captain Vancouver, 
 such as Stephens Passage, Dout-LASs Island, 
 &c. They also we«t on shore at some Indian villages, 
 "but had little communication with the few natives they 
 met with. 
 
 August 22d, they put to sea from this harbour, and 
 returning Souiiiward ahing the coast to Ncoika, where 
 they found no fresh advices either from our own or the 
 Spanish Government res{)cctini; the final settlement of 
 that territory. They remaii ed there, by desire of the 
 Governor who had surci^eded to iho command on the 
 death of Sig: Quadra, (ill tUv. tinu^ he expected his final 
 instructions, Iiich he fixed to tlic 13th of October. 
 In the mean time, both the Discovery and the Chat- 
 ham undcnvenJ material repairs ; and the officers of 
 ^ both hi[s were received with great civility, and wore 
 
 highly 
 
 ...\ 
 
^r 
 
 80 
 
 Vanc9uxer*s Voyage of Diicoreni, ^c. 
 
 liiglily enteriained by the Indian Chiefs of the neighbour- 
 ing districts. 
 
 They took leave of these Islands, and of the North 
 Pacific Ocean, in the month of February 1795, and on 
 their arrival at Valparaiso they visited a principal Spa- 
 nish town on the coast of Chili, of considerable extent, 
 and built witli great regularity. They lihewise visited 
 St. Jago, the capital of Chili ; and in the month of July 
 179:} both the ships arrived safe at St. Helena. 
 
 The crcvv of the Chatham, as well as the officers, had 
 sutTcrcd much in their health during their passage from 
 Valparaiso ; the convalescents were sent on shore, and 
 as a convoy was soon expected to sail from St. Salvador, 
 Captain Vancouver determined to send there, tliat she 
 might proceed with it to England, whilst he should re- 
 main until some British vessel of force should touch at 
 St. Helena in her way home. Agreeably I") this desti- 
 nation, the Chatham was finally separated from the 
 Discovery, and the latter set sail for England on the 
 iGth of July, exerting every effort to overtake the 
 homeward bo'ind East India fleet under convoy of his 
 JMajesty's ship of war the Sceptre, which fleet had left 
 the Bay of St. Helena on the morning of the arrival of 
 r^iscovTry. On the 21st of August the desired junction 
 v.'as effected, and, under the safe conduct of the Com- 
 mander, Captaii^i Klhngton, they all made the Western 
 coast of Ireland on the 12th of September, and the 
 next day, after having seen the Discovery safely 
 moored with the rest of tlie fleet in the Shannon, Cap- 
 tain Vancouver received the order of the Commander 
 of the Sceptre to repair immediately to London, witlr 
 the necessary papers and documents essential to the 
 illustration of the services he had performed ; and in a 
 few days he arrived at the Admiralty, where he depo- 
 sited tiicm. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
 J. SmectoK, Printer, 148, St. Martini Lane. 
 
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