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 1 
 
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If a I 
 
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 can 
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JOURNAL 
 
 OF 
 
 A TOUR 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 H ! 
 
 THE UNITED STATES, 
 
 AND 
 
 IN CANADA, 
 
 MAPE DURING THE YEARS 1837-38 
 
 BY 
 
 CHARLES DAUBENY, M.D. F.R.S. &c. 
 
 PROFESSOR OF CHEMISTRY AND BOTANY IN 
 THE UNIVERSITY OF OXFORD. 
 
 If a man \vould study human nature in and for itself, he must tal;e a much 
 
 larger tour than that of Europe The tour of Europe is like the en- 
 
 tertainment that Plutarch speaks of, which Pompey's host of Eplrus gave 
 him. There were many dishes, and they had a seeming variety ; but when he 
 came to examine them narrowly, he found them all made up of one hog, and 
 indeed nothing but pork variously modi&ed.— War bur ton's Letters to Kurd. 
 
 Printed for private circulation only. 
 
 OXFORD: 
 
 Printed by T. Combe, Printer to the University. 
 M.DCCC.XLI1I. 
 
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 "^29/7 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 THE contents of the following pages are really what 
 their title imports— the hasty Memoranda, set down 
 at my earliest convenience, in relation to such matters 
 as seemed worthy of notice during each day of my 
 sojourn in the New World ; and as it has been my 
 wish, that they should continue to convey the actual 
 impression left upon my mind at the time by the 
 incidents that presented themselves, I have been 
 careful, in revising the original manuscript, to make 
 only such additions to it, as seemed necessary, in 
 order to develope more fully the meaning of those 
 passages which appeared obscure, or to supply omis- 
 sions as to matters of detail which struck me upon 
 the subsequent perusal of my Notes. 
 
 Under such circumstances, I have naturally felt 
 i*eluctant to offer to the world under my name a 
 production of a character so immature, and as there 
 
 a2 
 
 f 
 
 * 
 
 w 
 
 ^'^'^KTi 
 
IV 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 seems in reality but little difference between the 
 wide distribution of an unpublished work, and the 
 act of its publication, I have purposely confined the 
 impression of this little volume to the number of one 
 hundred copies. 
 
 It has therefore appeared to me, that in a Work of 
 such limited circulation, no greater degree of delicacy 
 was called for in mentioning the names of the indi- 
 viduals with whom I had been thrown into contact, 
 than ought in propriety to have been observed re- 
 specting them, in the general intercourse of society, 
 or in one's correspondence with private friends. 
 
 As howpver I should have acted in this respect 
 differently, had my Notes been designed for publi- 
 cation, it is my hope, that if they should chance to 
 share the fate, which has befallen so many Works, 
 both bad and good, written by Englishmen on the 
 United States, and be seized upon hereafter, without 
 my sanction, by some American Publisher, the latter 
 will at least have the good taste to omit, in his 
 Edition, the names of individuals, moving only in a 
 private circle, which occur in the course of my 
 Narrative. 
 
 If it be moreover inquired, why I should have 
 been at the pains and expense of printing for distri- 
 bution amongst friends, a production confessedly of 
 too slender pretensions to be deemed worthy of being 
 offered to the public — it may be replied, that I 
 cherished, in the first place, a natural wish to shew, 
 
PREFACB» ,y 
 
 that I had reaped some fruits during so long an ab- 
 sence from the scene of my duties at home— that 1 
 was likewise actuated by a desire to afford a kind of 
 answer te the embarrassing question so often put to 
 me since my return, « What do you think of the 
 United States ?»^and that, independently of these 
 motives, I have been also encouraged to this step by 
 the favourable reception which, if I may judge from 
 a newspaper sent to me by a friend in Philadelphia, 
 has been experienced by the Preface to my little 
 " Sketch of the Geology of North America," em- 
 bodying, as it does, in a few brief sentences, those 
 impressions with respect to the people, of which the 
 present Journal may be regarded as supplying the 
 groundwork and the justification. 
 ^ It has, : own, been my ambition to shew, that the 
 citizens of the United States are capable of receiving 
 without displeasure a view of their manners given by 
 an Englishman, whose position in the Old World is 
 one certainly not calculated to impart to him an 
 undue bias in favour of popular rule ; who, devoted 
 to that Constitution in Church and State, which was 
 fixed by the glorious Eevolution of 1688, and averse 
 to any further changes in either, excepting such 
 as may be called for by the different aspect which 
 society has since assumed, or are manifestly involved 
 in the principles then established, is as little disposed 
 to overlook the evil T^orkings of a democracy in 
 another country, as he would be to welcome its 
 
 V' 
 
 '♦■i 
 
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 •; ^ i| 
 
 !,! • 
 
▼* PREFACE. 
 
 approaches in his own ; but who nevertheless abhors 
 the idea of exaggerating the defects of a kindred 
 nation for the sake of disparaging their Institutions ; 
 is wilHng to make for their real failings such allow* 
 ances, as the peculiar circumstances of their condition 
 seem in candour to demand ; and has endeavoured, 
 as much as possible, to avoid the unfairness of measur- 
 ing the position, in the scale of civilisation, of a 
 new and a distant people, by an exclusively European 
 standard. 
 
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 JOURNAL. 
 
 July 27, i837._Or. Joarrf the Packel Ship Mediator. 
 
 ior,^o 1 ''^^ effects of those horrors which mnaf 
 
 kndsmen have to encounter, when first launcSd upon Te 
 wide ocean, I sit down to indite my Journal, which if it .hnnM 
 serve no other purpose hereafter, wiU at least hp thl ^^ 
 during the voyag'e ofwhUing awaymlny a hety hoL^^^^^^ 
 serve also as an introducdon to thos^ no es whkh' I intTn J 
 
 As yet, we have been the sport of the winds and waves suffer 
 mg grievously, without the satisfaction of makinrmu'ch nrn" 
 gress-but the good ship has acquitted hersel^s 7esTl 3/ 
 which was built to be presented to the Soverdgrof t^e S^^^^ 
 of mantime nations, himself a seaman as a tnLr^nf ^^^f ^?* 
 from the United States for his royaT seWfces in the LSf^5 
 Mediator, when General Jackson Jnd LoSs Phmnne tK / ^ 
 to go to loggerheads. Why Jonathan^^^ZiistTal oS ^^^ 
 vesse to retain her name, degraded hei froT her hth dest nv 
 ricP n,r? «f V'^^^^^on packet ship, to receive Immbl perS 
 
 Sl^: rht:;er Tnr 0I rm^sTeCnt td l^^--- 
 the noble class of vessels toXLt'beLgt Z7t^Z:^ 
 for our comfort with a rantam wV,« u«u„ „ aL / provided 
 
 equal to every .^rgenej^Tfinrm^df fotunaraS"„;; 
 feUow passenger., whether EngUsh or American? amo^grt Z 
 
 B 
 
 ft' 1 
 
 r 
 
 L* 'i 
 
 yi 
 
 m 
 
2 
 
 former are, Mr. Draper, the solicitor general, of Upper Canada 
 who as I understand, has worked his way up to that hiffh nit 
 solely by his talents and assiduity, and is evidently a upeS 
 
 \%Z\ ^rii^^' Major BonnycLtle, of the En,?ners,Thom 
 I find to be the son of the late Professor of Astroiomv^ 
 Woolwich, the author of several standard works. ThTrd7hL 
 brother, a civihan who being left a widower with one fine boy 
 18 going to lom his brothers in America, one of whom the 
 rnajor, IS in tlie Canadian service, whilst the other holds^'Dro 
 fessorship m the University founded by Jefferson/ nVirS" 
 Both are agreeable and intellectual persons, the farmer hS 
 
 Su^efanllSu'r^ '''''' ^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^ -^ 
 
 tu^^i: tS sl^rKr ^ ^:\z:t^z^ 
 
 .r""?/" %Vir^ cultivated mind, and some vocal Valent- he 
 other Mr. Williams, a comic singer, who has already made 
 us at times forget our miseries by his fun and drollery ^ 
 
 Wor have I any reason to complain of the generality of the 
 American class of passengers, amongst whom, I may Lent on 
 the amiable family of the Motleys, from Boston, and a son of 
 John Harrison Otis, the eminent FederaHst, of the same citv 
 a young man of intelligence and gentlemanlike addrSs but 
 ayincing the length of his absence from his natL coun n^^^^^^ 
 his Parisian air-and above all, by the possession of a weU^ 
 «Town moustache calculated, no doubt, to do execution on the 
 comment, but which, nevertheless, the merciless decree of 
 fashion will I understand, consign to destruction, so soon as 
 he reaches the confines of New England. We h^ve also on 
 board the celebrated Commodore Rogers, of the American 
 navy, the wreck of a fine seaman, but now debilitated in consS 
 tution and shaken n intellect; in whom, however, the ruUnl 
 passion has been evinced, almost as it were in the ribs of death 
 hLlif ''i .«f his having undertaken, in the present state S 
 health and infirmities, unattended, except by a black servant ^ 
 voyage of pleasure to the Old Country,^ro^ which h[s„ow 
 on his return, shortlv, as 4s manifest, to deposit his bonel 
 withm his native lancl.t But thu most talented and L some 
 respects the most agreerUe person amongst them is Mr DuTr 
 of New York, the friend of Senior and Archbishop Whatelv 
 who, judging from the little intercourse I have vet had mth hi^^ 
 seems a hard-headed and sagacious person, whoselegal av ocatiins 
 have not prevented him from attaining an extensive acouart 
 ance with general literature. Ol ladies, there are but ?ew on 
 
 * ?;0^v Sir R. Bonnycastie, autJior of" Canada, in 184 r." 
 t tie died the winter foUowing, at Washington, 
 
Upper Canada, 
 i that high post 
 2ntly a superioi 
 gineers,* whom 
 
 Astronomy at 
 3. Thirdly, his 
 th one fine boy, 
 
 of whom, the 
 ler holds a pro- 
 )n, in Virginia. 
 : former having 
 i with modern 
 
 rying their for- 
 of Horncastle, 
 cal talent— the 
 already made 
 )llery. 
 
 nerality of the 
 may mention 
 and a son of 
 ;he same city, 
 ! address, but 
 ve countr}' by 
 on of a well- 
 ecution on the 
 es? decree of 
 n, so soon as 
 have, also, on 
 the American 
 tted in consti- 
 ir, the ruling 
 ribs of death. 
 It state of his 
 ick servant, a 
 ich he is now 
 sit his bones 
 and in some 
 is Mr. Duer, 
 hop Whately^ 
 had with him, 
 ?al avocations 
 ive ac(5[uaint- 
 3 but tew on 
 
 I 184 r." 
 
 n^fJ'^VM'^ these chiefly from the United States, but the rough- 
 
 Sn "" ' '■**' "-"^'^^^ '^''"^"^'^ ^^^^" to their 
 
 August 2nd.— As sickness wears off; I begin to find, more 
 
 ^1. %l' ^^^^ *^^ ^''^^ P'"^^^"' ^^" ^o^'-d ship is, how to kill 
 time, ihere is, fortunately, amongst our cabin passengers no 
 propensity for gambling, such as might serve to give a zest to 
 the otherwise tedious monotony of games of chance-chess 
 requires too much thought to become a frequent and popular 
 occupation-and shuffle-board, the only out'-door amusement! 
 It 1 may so term it, at the best not a very attractive one, is prac- 
 ticable only when the deck happens to be pretty steady 
 i\.t a""""^'^^ ^"^ keep the enemy at bay during one portion of 
 the day by a course of oljservations, on the temperature both of 
 the air and wat^r-on the intensity of the sun's radiation, as 
 determined by Herschel's actinometer-and, on the dryness of 
 the atmosphere, by comparison between the indications aflfbrded 
 Dy the dry and wet bulb thermometers.* 
 
 Perhaps* fortunate for the undisturbed prosecution of these 
 experiments, that there should be on board a kind of rival 
 phUosopher, m the person of a Mr. Swaim, of the United 
 states, who, having purchased in London a grand electro-mag- 
 netic apparatus, and being hkewise addicted to flying electrical 
 kites acts himself as a sort of conductor, to draw oflf atten- 
 tion trom my meteorological experiments, to his own more at- 
 tractive exhibitions, t 
 
 I fear, however, I have given him mortal offence to day by 
 delivering a verdict against him, when appealed to by the pas- 
 sengers, as to the harmlessness of his drawing down electricity 
 from the clouds. I confess, I do not feel sufficient confidence in 
 his science, to be wilhng to trust him with so dangerous a play- 
 thing as his electrical kite might prove in unskilful hands. 
 
 in addition to these observations, I also make my servant draw 
 lip for me every day a bucket full of the sea water, with which 
 tTT i*l- J' •■^.^"la^ly filled, and this, after being corked, 
 sealed, and ticketed with the date, latitude, and longitude in 
 wh ch It was brought up, is set aside in a box for futufe exami- 
 nation. 1 shall also occasionally obtain samples of the water 
 from a considerable depth, by means of the instrument of my 
 
 rsTiM/lt" ' ^"' '^"^^^ '^ ^^^ ^^^— ^^-« '' 
 
 * For a summary of the^e of)servations, see appended. 
 
 th.^TVflniV "P"*'"'"," ^^h^'^ *^ '" ^^'' Horncastle's lines, « On board 
 the Mediator,' as the ' Learned Pundit," and is the son of the in- 
 
 M^,.r w« ij'^ — At ■••:"'^;'''^».^'"'^n enjuys as great a celebrity in the 
 JVew World, as Morrison's Pills do in the Old. 
 
 I I was thus enabled, on my return to England, in 1838, to obtain 
 
 B2 
 
 .'I 
 
 
 /■^ 
 
 c^ 
 
 t 
 
 I 
 
 
4 
 
 thf "n?i, "^ '"^ expedients for wiling away time-in behalf of 
 the other passengers, however, who have no such means of 
 
 the J«;;o«'ing r^ults, indicating a pretty uniform rate of increase in 
 the saltness of the sea, as we recede from either coast :- 
 The Quaxtity of Salt in Sea M'ater. 
 
 f 
 
 Locality. Latitude. Longitude. 
 
 Off Southmptn. 
 
 abot 
 
 \ 
 
 Water taken 
 up duringa voy- 
 age between 
 Portsmouth and 
 New York, in 
 1837 
 
 Off Sandy Hook 
 
 Drawn from a 
 depth of 80 fa- 
 thoms 
 
 Do. of lOOfths. 
 
 Surface -watpr 
 
 nearest to above 
 
 ►41.10 48.23 
 
 39.54 
 
 67.34 
 
 Sp. gravity of 
 the water. 
 
 !} 
 
 ( 
 
 1027.00 
 10267.26 
 10269.08 
 10269.99 
 10269.99 
 10269.99 
 10270.90 
 10271.81 
 10271.81 
 10271.81 
 10272.72 
 10272.72 ). 
 10272.72 J 
 10275.45 
 10275.45 
 10274.54 
 10272.72 
 10273.63 
 IO271.8I 
 10269.08 
 10272.72 
 10254.52 
 10249.06 ) 
 10249.06 ; 
 10249.97 
 10248.15 
 10249.06 
 10254.28 ) 
 10254.28/ 
 10256.34 
 10249.06 
 10265.44 
 10229.04 
 
 10265.44 
 
 10273.63 
 10254.28 
 
 18. 9 
 
 18. 7 
 
 19. 2 
 
 21. 
 
 18. 7 
 
 2. 3 grs. 
 difference. 
 
 Proportion of solid 
 matter in 500 grains 
 oL)tained by evapor- 
 ation in a water b«th 
 
 19.40 
 20. 4 
 
 20.95 
 
 20. 9 
 
 20.85 
 21.00 
 
ime— in behalf of 
 10 such means of 
 
 rate of increase in 
 
 »ast : — 
 
 rATER. 
 
 Proportion of solid 
 matter in 500 grains 
 oL)tained by evapor- 
 ation in a water bath 
 
 itntirZ^T^ '"^ 'l'' '' ^' ^y *he imports e :^^^^^ 
 Atlantic Gazette, or Media.^orial Galaxy— Mr Motlev sPnW 
 
 toCofhiTn^"'"'^^^^^^^^ condescended t^ confer the 
 
 ffiusl^rd tI^"/ l''^' ""V^' ^""^^i«"« «f it« editor, 
 haf to dav^^ 'Z .' ^''^ """'^'^ ^^ ^^^ important pubUcation 
 naa to-day made its appearance, and has been voted by accla- 
 mation to possess merit of a very superlatiye orden ^ 
 ^fT, r-,^^""^' ^e are most of us contributors in one shane or 
 
 Locality. 
 
 Between Char- 
 leston and Ha 
 vanna 
 
 Gulph of Mexico 
 between Havan- 
 na & N. Orleans 
 Indian Ocean. 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Atlantic Ocean 
 Bay of Naples 
 Marseilles .... 
 
 Latitude. 
 
 Longitude. 
 
 '28.16 
 27.30 
 24.40 
 23.28 
 v.23.15 
 f 24.23 
 26.33 
 28.20 
 Equator. 
 Ditto 
 Ditto 
 Ditto 
 40.50 
 43.17 
 
 80. 8 
 
 Sp. gravity of 
 tlie water. 
 
 Do 
 
 84.30 
 86.47 
 89.00 
 84. OEast 
 
 8.16 
 depth 625 ft, 
 19.30 West 
 14.15 
 
 5.22 
 
 10258.16 
 
 10277.27 
 
 10273.63 
 
 10273.63 
 
 10276.36 
 
 10276.36 
 
 10275.45 
 
 10278.18 
 
 1026.00 
 
 1025.90 
 
 1027.47 
 
 1026.70 
 
 1030.00 
 
 1031.00 
 
 [ 
 
 Proportion of solid 
 matter in 500 grains, 
 obtained by evapor- 
 ation in a water batli 
 
 20.90 
 
 21. 1 
 19.00 
 19.23 
 20.88 
 19.10 
 22.30 
 23.10 
 
 And of subjoining those ol)tained some years ago, by Dr. Marcet as 
 ^PO'-tedm the Philosophical Transactions, viz. :1 ^ ' 
 
 Atlantic Ocean 
 South Atlantic 
 North Atlantic 
 
 Equator 
 2!°.0' 
 25.30 
 
 23. West 
 0. 
 32 30 
 
 1027 85 
 1020.19 
 1028.86 
 
 19. 6 
 
 20. 6 
 
 21. 3 
 
 
 Pf 
 
 
 I 
 
 f * ■ » '1 
 
1 \- 
 
 hTll a'- ""^ ?"" ^^^^''^''^ ^^««^«« credit for the tact he 
 n^ c&lri ? '"^''''^A« ' '°P^^ ^"^ discussion, which seems 
 not calculated to engender or to call forth any latent party or 
 national animosities— ' ^ ^ 
 
 t 
 
 « An onion will do weU for such a shift." 
 
 " The Editor to his Readers. 
 
 veMicTln!h'TnI ^'i -^P"'!"^ "P^" *^" ^"* appearance of a 
 periMical, such a» now claims the attention and patronage of an in- 
 
 "On Z ' . • ^*\"ot'ons on matters and things in general, 
 nrnff • '' '"''J-^'*' ^^ ^^""^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^ime to make anyarowals or 
 
 !nh^r.'^rrr''^'^^''^''^^'^ "^^'' ^^ «>«^™«^ with siuow 
 
 subjects and feUow^itizens, to express his sentiments from time to 
 time as circumstances may to him seem meet and proper, 
 nerhfnf T^.k''"^ topic vastly more interesting and absorbing than 
 energetic ' ^ ^""^^ *^^* ^" ^'^"^^ ^« **> «-I>««it Sr too 
 
 owes^t rfhJ!. *? ^.i! ancestors-he owes it to his coadjutors-he 
 InTJfZten t tl P''^^"*'.^"'^ *^« ^^'"•"g generatiois of men, 
 pregnaDie ground. The great question to which the editor alludes 
 
 Jnilns'^h^^^^^^^^ by his readers, is, 'In^onsomo 
 
 mgyons ? that is emphatically the question. 
 
 the scratch aT Z '^'' ??'"*' ^^^^"'^l"^ ^" circumlocution, comes to 
 trie scratch at once. He avows himself distinctly, undiseuisedlv 
 
 Srflavtr'' ^?:^,""^^--»>|rV- I"^--t of the^'d^^e^'dTelS 
 thei estnZ b. wT"/ "" ^" the r shapes, in all their phases, in all 
 tneir essences, he will advocate at all hazards 
 
 Galaxv"w?tb «n "^Z'^"*'" '"" ^"? r^ ^'^^'^ P«"«h tl^e Mediatorial 
 live lonJ i 'ts present and hoped for brilliancy and glory-but 
 live, long live, and for ever live,-I„gvons and Liberty !" 
 
 I i 
 
 h Zn'^t ''m ? T"^?, ^T°"' ^" Mr. Horncastle's song, « 
 board the Mediator," which appeared in the same numfcr. 
 
 " Song.~On board the Mediator. 
 
 " When first I thought I'd like to be 
 A young United Stater, 
 Thinks I, I'd better go to sea, 
 On board the Mediator. 
 
 *• For I'd been down to Kitty's Dock, 
 Just to investigate her, 
 ^"^ found all things uncommon snug 
 Vn .;oai'd the Tuediator. 
 
 On 
 
Oil, comes to 
 
 " So straight I went to Captain C 
 
 He wasn't no abator, 
 And there I stumpt the precious tin 
 Aboard the Mediator. 
 
 " Thinks I, a bit of good salt beef 
 And mealy kidney tater, 
 Will be the prog as I shall get 
 Aboard the Mediator. 
 
 " But Bobby Peel, nor Mister Bunn, 
 Nor Dan the Agitator, 
 Would ever dream how things are done 
 On board the Mediator. 
 
 " We've niggers clad in calicos, 
 Handy as any waiter. 
 Wot makes the soup, and brings it up. 
 On board the Mediator. 
 
 " The captain heads the table top, 
 A rig'lar fine first rater— 
 And don't he push the wine about, 
 On board the Mediator ? 
 
 " There's shampain twice a week, d'ye see, 
 
 And hosheons of the crathur 
 
 And brandy punch, and good bohee. 
 On board the Mediator. 
 
 " A learned pundit too, is here, 
 A fine young demonstrator, 
 Who sends up kites, and loses 'em 
 Aboard the Mediator. 
 
 " We've gay guitars, and wry-necked fifes, 
 And a comic i-eoitator. 
 Whose up to snuff, and something more. 
 Aboard the Mediator. 
 
 " And blooming samples ( 
 Stern life's ameliator, 
 
 of the sex. 
 
 Whose beaming smiles the soul perplex, 
 Aboard the 3Iediator. 
 
 " In short, there's all sorts of delights, 
 I'm no equivocator— 
 And squalls by day, ditto by nights. 
 Aboard the Mediator. 
 
 " If any point I overlook, 
 Forgive the enumerator. 
 His head has been so very much shook. 
 Aboard the Mediator." 
 
 In order to contribute my quota to the general stock, I sent 
 
 )■■ I i 
 
 (.» ■ 
 \. • 
 
 
 1 
 
 ! 
 
 i-t, - 
 
! i'l 
 
 e 
 
 8 
 
 them some lines, in imitation of Wordsworth, which I once in- 
 dited on a favourite cat : — 
 
 " Ode to a Favourite Cat. 
 
 " Ckubby ! thoti surely art, I wean, 
 A puss of most majestic mien, 
 
 So stately all thy paces ; 
 With such a philosophic air 
 Thou seek'st thy professorial chair, 
 And so demure thy face is. 
 
 " For as thou sitt'st, thine eye seems fraught 
 With such intensity of thought— 
 
 That superhuman knowledge 
 Would seem to breathe in every mew, 
 And learning yet undreamt by you, 
 Who teach in hall and college. 
 *' And when in solemn taciturnity. 
 
 Thine eye seems wandering through eternity— 
 
 What happiness were mine. 
 Could I then catch the thoughts that flow, 
 Thoughts siich as ne'er were hatched below, 
 ' But in a brain like thine. 
 
 " Oh ! then throiighout the livelong day 
 With thee I'd sit, and purr away 
 
 In ecstasy sublime ; 
 Since from thy face, as from a book, 
 I'd drink in science at each look, 
 Nor fear the lapse of time." 
 
 August 5^The Gazette seems to improve in interest, llie 
 subject of Onions serves as the seasoning to many a friendly 
 controversy, both in verse and prose. Mr. Duer has sent us an 
 amusing parody upon the ordinary style of newspaper corre- 
 spondence, in an invective against onion eating, which I regret to 
 find too long for insertion in my journal. I must make room, 
 however, for the facetious lines which Mr. Horncastle has con- 
 tributed, in imitation of Phillips' favourite Song of the Sea :— 
 
 "Song:— The Onion. 
 Tune:— The Sea. 
 
 " The root, the root, the bulbous root. 
 The young, the strong, the sweet to boot; 
 In every tiny plot of ground 
 The Ingion is certain to be found. 
 'J'is pickled in jars for home supplies, 
 Or on the rumpsteak tempting lies. 
 
i'hich I once in- 
 
 9 
 
 I'm for the root, I'm for the root, 
 
 Upon this theme I can't be mute, 
 
 M^ith its green above, and its white below, 
 
 And fragrance %vheresoe'er it grow. 
 
 If a salad be drest without its aid. 
 
 No matter, no matter, I'd blow up the maid. 
 
 " I love, oh, how I love to walk 
 Thinking of nothing, and chewing a stalk. 
 When rabbits are boil'd, and mutton is hash'd, 
 They both should be smother'd in onions, well raash'd. 
 An Ington when clapp'd to a widow's eye. 
 For her darling duck will tears supply, 
 I ne'er sat down to a roasted goose. 
 But I lov'd, oh. Onion, thy savory juice, 
 And backward flew from her brawny breast, 
 Like a bird that seeketh her mother's nest, 
 And my mother, I'm sure, she was fond of thee, 
 *or I m marked with an Inffion upon my knee. 
 
 3. 
 
 " The root was ripe in the autumn mom, 
 The seed was sav'd, when I was born. 
 The ploughman whistled, his Onion gnaw'd 
 As out of the bed a whacker he claw'd, 
 And never was nurse so heard to scold, 
 For I squalled for an Onion at two days old. 
 I have eat since then, in spite of my wife, 
 Full fifty Ingions each day of my life. 
 Though I have munch'dripe peaches with Grange, 
 Yet I never have sought or sighed for a change. 
 And whoso wishes to read me right 
 Will find me a staunch old Onionite. 
 
 .Jnf^T^^?.^ P'''''^ ^ ^T'^ communicated the following ac- 
 count of a Dream, m which the same potent vegetable also 
 figures conspicuously : ^ gciauxe cubo 
 
 « Mr. Editor, « Monday, August 7th. 
 
 ^.» * 1 1 '^^^ ^"^^'^ papers, the Mediatorial Galaxy not exceoted 
 
 Wv .SC 'V'tr ^T'^'' ^"^ ™'«h^P« ocJasion^bTth^ 
 mSed anS for^^^^ They have already apprised us of the" dis! 
 mantled and forlorn condition, not only of the manv merehantm^ 
 and pnvateers who had been exposed to i[s violence™ but eTen in Z^ 
 thTwn'onr-^-r' *"!? ^^"^ '■" ^^'' Majesty's iervU^X;^^^^^ 
 Ir. I? • It"' ^r'!'-'^'ds during the continuance of the stom, and 
 are only just beginnmg to come again under weigh. ' 
 
 \JtZ ^^^^P'^^t^^^d to us the melancholy condition to which the 
 latter were reduced, compelled as thev were tl h.e /« ^M X-nTJ^r 
 even m the extremity of their misery, to hoist signah^^^Sl^i 
 they have given us reason to apprehend the mosf serioustotequenc" s 
 
 if -11 
 
 I li 
 
 'i II 
 
 ■f : 
 
 
I! ' ' 
 
 10 
 
 from the loss of stores and ballast, which several vessels, previously 
 well ftrovisiotied, incurred in the coui-se of it. 
 
 But, Sir, they do not apjiear to have yet dwelt on the many minor 
 miseries inflictetl hy tlie stcirm in (piestion, during the violence of 
 which even nature's kind restorer, sleep, was either denied the un- 
 happy sufferer, or hy a refinement of cruelty converted into a new 
 instrument of torture. 
 
 For my own part, it Avas long ere the conflict of the tflements 
 allowed me any chance of ohliviou, but at length exhausted nature 
 seemed to exert her supremacy, and I sunk luiconsciously into the 
 arms of Morpheus. 
 
 But what a sleep ! ' if sleep it could be called where sleep was 
 none.' I found myself whirled through the air, astride on a gigantic 
 onion, bathed in an atmosphere of perfumes— not, indeed, perfumes 
 of Arabia, but of Ascalou, the fragrant remirn"scences of the day 
 l)efore, although my stomach had as yet been guiltless of the enormity 
 of onion. 
 
 But whilst I was struggling to keep my seat on this extraordinary 
 Pegasus, a sudden shock, probably a lurch of the vessel, brought me to 
 the ground, and restored me for a moment to a sort of half con- 
 sciousness of my situation. This, however, was unattended by any 
 mitigation of suffering, for though I felt myself in the good' ship 
 Mediator, I imagined it to be transported along by a West Indian 
 hurricane, and myself vainly struggling to reef the sails, which the 
 captain seemed obstinately bent on straining to the utmost. 
 
 At length a change came over the spirit of my dream, and I thought 
 myself in the market-place of Kingston, in Jamaica, surrounded by 
 Niggers and Mulattoes of every variety of duskiness, grinning, and 
 making mouths at me as I ran the gauntlet amongst them. 
 
 Ensconced behind a wall, I found myself listening to the conversa- 
 tion that passed, and at length had my attention arrested by a colloquy 
 between two Creole women, which I report as a specimen of polite 
 manners and infant precocity, as exhibited amongst our African cousins. 
 
 ' How do you do, ma'rm ?' 
 
 ' Ver well, I tank you, ma'rm. How do little piccaninny, ma'rm ?' 
 
 ' Oh, ma'rm, poor piccaninny die !' 
 
 ' Oh, ma'rm, I so sorry. How he die ?' 
 
 ' Ou can't tink how affectionate he die, ma'rm ! He turn up he 
 littel eye, an say, ' D your eyes, mama,' and die like a lamb.' 
 
 The pathos of this dialogue communicated such a shock to my 
 feelings, that I could resist them no longer, and awaking suddenly, 
 found myself in my berth in the good ship Mediator, with the black 
 steward standing at my bedside." 
 
 To shew that we do not deal altogether in the humorous, 
 I subjoin the following lines by the author of the preceding 
 song : — 
 
 "An Evening at Sea, after a Storm. 
 
 " A light yet lingers in the west, 
 Keflected on tiie broad sea's breast, 
 
essela, previously 
 
 grinning, and 
 
 11 
 
 Which pnnts and heaves m almost spent 
 
 «y grappling with an element 
 
 Its mortal foe ; for never yet 
 
 Hath wind and wave in friendship met. 
 
 ir-n 'i'""' hree-ze, a murmuring sigh, 
 Will ruffle (K;eau'8 dignity; 
 Then how much n.ore, when winds arise, 
 That draw dark chnids o'er sunlit skies, 
 JJoth angry ocean chafe, and tear, 
 With maddening wrath, the frolic air ! 
 And such but now has been the fight 
 Betwixt two foes of equal might, 
 Until that power, supreme o'er all, 
 Had bid this elemental brawl 
 Its wild contending fury cease, 
 And hush'd both winds and waves to peace, 
 lis past. A sweet, delicious calm 
 I hngs on the soul its magic balm. 
 A stillness, that is not repose, 
 But kindred to it, hath arose, 
 And like a hill'd child, on its pillow, 
 Slumbers the cloud-empurpled billow. 
 Safely our gallant vessel glides 
 Through gentler gales and smoother tides, 
 Ihe only human fabric seen 
 Amidst this soft, this goi-geous scene. 
 With human ties and feelings fraught, 
 And all the wondrous world of thought. 
 Her white sails set, and towering masts, 
 1 hat erewhile shivered in the blasts. 
 Now, decked in all their stateliest pride,, 
 J. he yielding ocean's depths divide, 
 Careering onward, swift and strong. 
 She'll make the far off West ere long. 
 And doth not this resemble life, 
 One mingled scene of calm and strife ? 
 For as this gallant vessel's form, 
 Braves both the lightning and the storm ; 
 So, if to virtue's path allied, 
 The soul herself shall safely ride 
 Through every grief, triumphant driven 
 Until she gains the port of heaven." 
 
 mnl"^c"'* 22d.— A most gorgeous, but, at the same time, a 
 r« h ^I'i-' '""'.'^' J"'^ «"^h ^« Turner would delight n 
 tl.r '^^ TT^ ^'^^^^^^^^ '' ^ l^'-ge tract of refllht 
 E 5^u^' ^^r°.^' '"«^^" °^ ^^^ ^««*' Whilst the horizon was 
 nevfr W^^ " ^""^' i g^^««-green, of a tint which I had 
 
 f=„,'^V,r ui"""^ "'°taiiv;c. lau ureeze was at the time light and 
 favourable; but 1 observed with surprise that our experienced 
 
 i >! 
 
 
12 
 
 i I 
 
 Captain began to take in sail. It was evident that he received 
 it as an indication of an approaching tempest; and we soon 
 found his prognostications verified. As the evening advanced, 
 the wind began to freshen, till about ten o'clock, when it blew 
 such a gale as I shall not soon forget. Still, however, it was 
 in the right direction, and although almost every rag of sail had 
 been taken in before the fury of the storm was at its height, yet 
 our ship seemed to be propelled like lightning through the waves. 
 
 At midnight, however, this state of things was reversed, for 
 after a moment's lull, the blast came directly in our teeth. We 
 were thus obliged to ride out the storm as best we could, till 
 morning dawned, when the wind began to moderate, and the 
 barometer, which from the beginning of the tempest had been 
 fearfully depressed, was, to our great relief, perceived to be 
 rising. 
 
 The passengers were indeed confined to their berths, and 
 little able to judge of what was going on above ; but about two 
 in the morning, a summons to the steward to serve out a supply 
 of grog to the exhausted seamen, who had hitherto adhered 
 strictly to the temperance pledge, made us all feel the greatness 
 of the emergency. 
 
 When the storm had subsided, the captain, whilst he con- 
 gratulated us that he had not lost a spar, or even a portion of his 
 canvass, during its continuance, expressed, at the same time, his 
 persuasion that the coasts had been visited by a hurricane from 
 the West Indies ; and so in fact it proved, for on our arrival at 
 New York a few days afterwards, I found the newspapers filled 
 with the report of wrecks that had strewed the coasts, from 
 Florida upwards, on several successive days, all of them ante- 
 rior to that in which we felt the storm.* That it was confined to 
 a certain limited tract on the ocean was also evident, from our 
 meeting the next day a vessel from New York which had ex- 
 perienced no indications of it whatsoever. 
 
 * The course of this hurricane is delineated by Colonel Read, in 
 the seventh chart of the atlas ajipended to his interesting work, en- 
 titled, " An attempt to develop the law of storms." 
 
 It appears that it was perceived north of Antigua, in latitude 
 1 8°, on the 15th of August ; that it had reached the coast of Florida, 
 in latitude 28°, on the i6th ; that it did much damage in the parallel 
 of Wilmington, South Carolina, about 34" north latitude, on the 19th ; 
 that it was noticed off Cape Hatteras, in latitude 35°, on the 21st, and 
 in various places to the northwards, as far at least as latitude 41°, 
 where our ship met it, in the course of the 22d. 
 
 Thus, in addition to a rapid rotatory or centripetal motion, the 
 storm had a slower p -orressive one, pursuing a ctn-vilinear course, 
 which brought it from tae ?8th parallel of latitude to the 41st in about 
 seven days. 
 
 Sep 
 ihe cit 
 lotes, 
 eady : 
 ourna 
 Thp 
 
 r 
 
tiat he received 
 ; and we soon 
 nintf advanced, 
 , when it blew 
 lowever, it was 
 rag of sail had 
 t its height, yet 
 )ughthe waves, 
 as reversed, for 
 our teeth. We 
 t we could, till 
 derate, and the 
 npest had been 
 )erceived to be 
 
 ir berths, and 
 but about two 
 /e out a supply 
 therto adhered 
 i\ the greatness 
 
 whilst he con- 
 a portion of his 
 
 same time, his 
 hurricane from 
 n our arrival at 
 vvspapers filled 
 B coasts, from 
 
 of them ante- 
 vas confined to 
 dent, from our 
 which had ex- 
 
 olonel Read, 1/) 
 jsting work, en- 
 
 ^ua, in latitude 
 coast of Florida, 
 :e in the parallel 
 ide, on the 19th; 
 on the 2 1 St, and 
 as latitude 41°, 
 
 etal motion, the 
 rvilinear course, 
 lie 41st in about 
 
 IS 
 
 of our partv ; but I »hall 001^,3 wUh IZTZ" "T 
 lines contr Imted by Mr Dranpr nfirL,- j ^ , "" *« 
 elegant and descriptive t-*^' ^P'"" ^''"'"'''' "-hich are 
 
 " Farewell. 
 
 "Again have I traversed the dark western ocean, 
 Adieu to us h.lh.ws, its long heaving swell ; 
 Ad.eu to the calm-to the tempest's commotiJn, 
 Dark, heavmj^ Atlantic, I hid thee farewell 
 
 UoTtht? '''I? "^^" '^''^ ''« ^^y» «««•«« and hurning 
 Upon thy hroad hosom, which mirror-like lay ^ 
 
 Reflectmg the beams, and their brightness retSnin^ 
 And addmg fresh light to the spfendour of day ^' 
 " IVe seen thee at sunset, when rich and red glowing 
 The smkmg sun tinted the waves and the skv ^' 
 And the rambow of peace its hues bright was throwing 
 O er the cloud that betokened a tempest was n^h^ 
 « I've seen thee at midnight, when storms loud were howling 
 
 When the fal^fnf^^T '^^ ^"^"^ ^'''e^ted wav^ ^' 
 
 aJ^a !l t^^ ^ ^^^ ^^y "'^^ dark, lurid, and scowHntr 
 ^^ And thy bdlows, m fury, yawned wide'like rgra^' 
 
 wT""T ."; ^' J^T«'^"d reclined on my pillow 
 Uith grateftil emotions my bosom shall swell 
 
 DarT r^"-*^"'^ ff^. ""y^^'^ «" the hi S 
 l>ark, heaving Atlantic, I bid thee farewell !" 
 
 ?as1lg^„ffhirtT.se'^e''nt^,tr^l"/s1"f^^ t' 5> 
 '■^'^c, on theeveninp- of thriS,?^^, '*'"'''■ ^'^f™'" 
 
 ■ -me and :c,n, Jdil^Vame^ Tto^NlTT'^.i'' * 
 -oou up my quarters at Bunker's H^teh *' "''"■" 
 
 IJSy Tts:Kln'!:LK--^^P-'-S the beautiful bay and 
 .otes, L1fee"eet't 'll'fj ^^Z^l S ll^'?"' '^ 
 eady represented under everv nnS ^- . ^^^ ^^^^ al" 
 
 fi' 
 
14 
 
 to 85°, and at night to 77° has indeed circumscribed, in a great 
 degree, my rambles through the town and neighbourhood I have 
 
 SiT if iV. h^t'^'v!" u '' ""^^' '^' persuasion that there's 
 but httle m Its pubhc buildmgs to arrest attention; and that t 
 18 the general aspect of bustle and business, the semblance f 
 not the reality of wealth, which is most striking and interesting 
 
 n" " w'"ff \-^;fT ^r^ ^^^"d«i" ^he sam? relatofto he 
 JSew World which London does to the Old; not the oueen of 
 literature science, and the arts, but of industry and commerce 
 and hough at the present time less magnificent, less extTnsTve; 
 and less affluent biddmg fair to become one day its rivaUn aU 
 
 Rrn.'f ' ' ''^- ^T^'^^'y- I "^"«t indeed confess tha the 
 Broadvvay, as a single street, eclipses in certain respects anv! 
 thing that I can call to my mind iniondon ; there aref it is tZ 
 no such public edifices as those in Regent Street, but there S 
 It a longer line of shops and of mercLndise; i may nore^ua" 
 he stir and hurry of the Strand, but it is much cleS, and ?on 
 tains many better houses. If compared to cities purely commer 
 cial, such as Liverpool, the superiority of New York strikes mTas 
 
 evengreater for itmust be admittedthere is nowhere uchaX^^^^^ 
 as the Broadway m any one of our provincial emporiums We 
 remark, however an absence of taste, an indiflTerence to whaUs 
 
 bourhood The Battery, for instance, is a promenade which in 
 point of situation might compete with any in Europe even wih 
 the boasted Villa Reale of Naples, comman^ingSo^s the^^«^ 
 extensive views of the beautiful Bay, enlivened by the numerous 
 vessels constantly passing and repassing. It is kepi hoTever 
 in a sloven y manner, and laid out with no sort of aste nJ; 
 are either picture galleries or museum., on the plan of European 
 cities, to be met with The only public buildings tha rank 
 above mediocrity, are the City Hall, (which, howevfr, would cut 
 but a mean appearance by the side of any of the rich thonah 
 antiQuated looking building of the kind il iLNeM^nd^t 
 by tW of the Bourse at Paris,) and the new University Z 
 
 hoS^^irs^;^!-^ cz^j^ 
 
 ductions, and met, in particular, with a very kind recepdon from 
 my fellow traveller, Mr. Duer, I proceede/thif morlg by th^ 
 Albany steamer to West Point, in company with Dr Tome 
 who, like myself, fills the chair of Botany as well as of Chemist^' 
 m the University, of New York, and who ^as good enou^To S 
 
 nr^Jr' '""' '^'■'''' "^yj»y^&e up the Hudson, the river 
 presents a succession of beautiful prospects, which I have no 
 
bed, in a great 
 irhood. I have 
 >n that there is 
 n; and that it 
 semblance, if 
 nd interesting 
 •elation to the 
 the queen of 
 id commerce; 
 less extensive, 
 its rival in all 
 nfess that the 
 respects any- 
 are, it is true, 
 but there is in 
 nay not equal 
 iner, and con- 
 irely commer- 
 strikes me as 
 e such a street 
 oriums. We 
 ice to what is 
 ty and neigh- 
 ade which in 
 pe, even with 
 does the most 
 he numerous 
 spt, however, 
 of taste: nor 
 I of European 
 gs that rank 
 er, would cut 
 rich, though 
 therlands, or 
 Jniversity in 
 on externally 
 
 pated in the 
 •ought intro- 
 ception from 
 rning by the 
 
 Dr. Torrie, 
 f Chemistry, 
 3Uffh to con- 
 
 The river 
 I I have no 
 
 15 
 
 .-iT^rtifrf v" ''''??* "P™' •»" *'>« si'"'>tion of West Point 
 8 particularly beautKuI. I here saw the Militarv 4cadeZ 
 the only establishment of the kind existing in ZuL.M SfTi' 
 and from ,ts supposed aristocratical tendencies Warded wfth 
 some jealousy by the democrats. The coS Ko lin ^ 
 budding, and one so totally destitute of all archteuraf em 
 beUishments, that t looks more lik^ u f-^t™, .1, • ": 
 
 institution, and is a sad .-"sore fthe mS „f .b/ "^'""f 
 
 loXg' t^fcrrz ■' % Th-^"» are fine'r„t'^:;",r 
 
 ^BB^ S or Snt n-t pSfnd ±- 
 
 the river, and commanding, in conseouence «n ^9f feet above 
 over the river and adjacent country ^' " """"™ ™«' 
 
 bill'/f ^^: September 5th.-Ascended the Crow's Nest th. 
 
 IVofessot f &X.?;^ 
 
 § LT ^l'f/cc"^d'.rtr' ""'"!■ '" "^"^ parts Sep »d 
 
 Cypripedium americanuT(to. W 5r rfl^^^^^^ 
 
 biflora, Rubus odnrfltn« h^^L- ' nower), Impatiens 
 
 llianthus, Chdone Sra Gera diaT/'rv" "^^S^' °' «^- 
 was covered with two Tpecies of Oa^ ;hf T^V ,?\ '".™™ 
 or Scrub Oak -nd .L n? ■ ' 'he ilicifolia, Ban steri, 
 
 80 dense waf^etood SrC'r ''""Z «>e.tn„t, and 
 
 : the country below coul'd'sctU; be^'obSSTrnt' " ™* "' 
 
 pactotAlTanyntil *f """.-Proceeded in the steam- 
 
 1 1 .'JwlSntrcX^nTwilrS^^^^ -".■•* 
 
 I measurement, was 1 2 70 feet. obtduied by trigonometrical 
 
 c 2 
 
 
 1 
 
 ' i I 
 
16 
 
 often described that I forbear particulars. Suffice it to say, 
 that the whole extent of 140 or 150 miles, from New York to 
 Albany, presented a succession of landscapes, which, if they 
 are surpassed by those of a few other rivers, taken one by one, 
 must, as a whole, be allowed to surpass them all, from the 
 number of pleasing and majestic objects they bring before us. 
 Ihe most strikmg of these were the view at West Point already 
 descnbed, the scenery about Hyde Park, the Catskill moun- 
 tams m the back ground, with the rich and fertile ground in 
 front, and the first prospect of Albany, on approaching that 
 
 But in our estimate of the charms of the Hudson, we must 
 not forget that they are for the most part derived exclusively 
 from the features of inanimate nature, for the works of man 
 have either not contributed at all towards the composition of 
 the landscape, or have tended onlv to mar its interest. 
 
 How different is it in this respect from the Rhine, and some 
 other European rivers, where we perceive a blending of all the 
 beauties which can be derived at once from nature and from 
 art! — 
 
 " streams and dells, 
 Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, cornfield, mountain, vine, 
 And chiefless castles, breathing stern farewells 
 From grey but lofty walls, where Ruin greenly dwells." 
 
 Thursday and Friday I spent at the inn called the Congress 
 Hall, at Albany, much indisposed with a cold or influenza, and 
 hkewise by the sultiy nature of the weather. The Congress 
 Hall IS full as good as Bunker's at New York, and I got there 
 a better bed-room, with somewhat more attention, though, con- 
 sidering Ainencan habits, I have no right to complain of either 
 m the latter respect. I visited the courts of justice now sitting 
 and made two botanical excursions. 
 
 Albany itself would be called in Europe a straggling place 
 It contains one street of considerable width, at the top of which 
 on an eminence, stands a large square, embellished by pubhc 
 buildings, imposing, perhaps, as a whole, but constructed in too 
 gaudy and ambitious a style of architecture to bear minute 
 criticism. Several of them have gilded domes, which appear 
 to more advantage when seen at a distance than when near. 
 
 On Saturday I started with Mr. H. Webster, of Albany, a 
 gentleman devoted to Meteorology, for whom I had brought 
 an introduction, for Lebanon springs, which he in one of the 
 prettiest and most romantic situations I have yet seen. 
 
 The water had the temperature of 73" Fahrenheit, which it is 
 said to preserve at all seasons. Bubbles of gas rise up through 
 the water, which I coUected and analysed. No trace of car- 
 
17 
 
 bonicacid could be detected, but phosphorus caused an absorp- 
 tion amounting to 8.6 per cent, (mean of two experiments). 
 Now addmg 2 per cent, lor phosphoric vapour, the composition 
 It fn'T^ be-Nitrogen 89.4, Oxygen 10.6, or atmospheric 
 "" 53 'o 47* 
 
 The situation of this spring is such as would afford a pre- 
 sumption in favour of sudden violence, or rather, I ahould sav 
 IS quite m harmony with that hypothesis. It issues near the 
 junction of the limestone rock with a coarse talcose slate, which 
 latter is here m highly inclined beds, and sinks downwar.ls ab- 
 ruptly 1 he hotel contiguous to the spring is built against this 
 almost perpendicular rock, so that the upper 8to?y of the 
 house 18 connected by a balustrade with the summit, giving the 
 ^sZniZT'""'''^ "^ ^"^^ ""' ^^'^""* descending to the 
 
 The whole of the neighbouring country is composed of a 
 very beautiful succession of hill and dale /the hills, indeed, of 
 
 ZJIT .k"-^^ ^""^ ''^'- ""^'y precipitous, but covered with 
 forests to their very summits-the valleys, green, fertile, and in- 
 tersjDersed with neat cottages. The neighbourhood of Bath 
 perhaps, presents some similarity, only that art has there, bv 
 destroying the seclusion, interfered somewhat with the interest 
 of the scenery. Lebanon, on the contrary, lies apart from any 
 great town, has on y one road leading to and from it, and pre- 
 sents all the external features of another Arcadia. But it must be 
 Zt'ri^ ^ "^f inhabitants are not altogether Arcadians, for, 
 though they may have at bottom sterhng qualities, they certainly 
 possess no pastord simplicity, nor have they that native courtesy 
 ofmannerwhichdistmguish, the mountain peasantry of many ^ 
 European countnes. My friend took me to what he coS 
 dered a favourable specimen of that class, a thermometer maker, 
 by the name of Kendall, and certainly a shrewd, and in the 
 main, an obliging fellow he proved. Having gone in search of 
 hrm after night-fall, he was rather at a loss to find the house 
 and accordingly accosted a countryman whom he saw goinff 
 
 ul.l """"t?" "'^' '''• ,'^^" following is the dialogue that 
 passed: "Pray, sir, is this Mr. Kendall's?" "nS- you'll 
 
 atter that ? 'You must go back to the third house, I guess." 
 Is Mr. Kendall like to be at home at this time of day?" 
 Have you any particular business with Mr. Kendall ?" " Yes • 
 hinf " '"^^ n \P^«^ef «r ^'^^- l^ngland who wishes to know 
 d i^t'inn .X\ a™,t>at gentleman." Upon which the intro- 
 duction took place, Mr. Kendall offered me very condescend- 
 ,. - ,..„..,, J „-,, auQ iciimg us 10 proceed to his house 
 
 illZ'tr '^''T'' '^'"''r?'- W^ ^«""d his thermometers 
 graduated on a plan invented by his father, which obviates the 
 
 C3 
 
18 
 
 quaintance he turned nT^ with them. Upon further ac- 
 to be communicative '^ intelligent, and well disposed 
 
 ing.^Be1n^cL"rk)ul*.n' 'P""^' ^'^ ^^^'^^ ^"^ the people obli^- 
 
 I noted do^w^Te "foS^^^^^ 
 
 at four shillings E„gS:l''^' °^^^"''^ calculating the dollar 
 
 ditto 
 
 ditto 
 
 ditto 
 
 ditto 
 
 ditto 
 
 ditto, per bottle. 
 
 ditto, per day. 
 
 14.25 
 
 9-50 
 11.95 
 
 15-25 
 13-50 
 
 14.85 
 
 e, 10 10 
 
 S^^fy i2to7 
 
 -Port 8 to 6 
 
 Hock '/'' 10 to 8 
 
 ^Jf^^t .' I2t08 
 
 5-hampagne .... 8 
 
 inferior 
 
 Board and lodgini,;' 8 rntto, per day. 
 
 ~s1th?i:'„;!j^fc;:^^^^^ e„ep.a. to 
 
 Actmometer, at 9 a. m.— 
 
 Maximum . . 
 Minimum . . 
 Mean of 5 obs 
 
 iJmo,at2p.m.-^Maximum 
 
 Minimum . . . 
 mu Mean of < obs 
 
 Thermometer at Lebanon 75°. 
 
 vm^ta^dttTjSnri'f^-^™- 
 
 am since informed a%rpa?r^- ; ^''' '^^"^^^- '* ^as, as I 
 fore, have seen them S/ntntrr^'* '^^^"^ ^"^ ^' t^ere- 
 the weather also atSacted I ^^T ^^I^^tages. The beauty of 
 
 place, a.d the asseS.e of sSL"""^^'' "^ ^P^^*^*«^« *« the 
 flux of them from To ^ of Shakers was mcreased bv an in- 
 
 estabhshed ThTchurc^ ""f.^r "^, ^"^^^^ -^ereTh^P re 
 plain within and wkhout Tnd t '^1 "^u^"^ ^""^^^S, perfectly 
 rivalling in that resnect f h^ M "'"^^'"kab e only for its neatness! 
 It had\ vaulted ^^ft^^^^^^^^^ Hernhutt 
 
 below it, was suspenSaWw^^^^ ^ ^i«l« distance 
 
 ing about half w^aj ?rom thfcenfr. f ?v""^'"^ ^"^^^^ ^^*«"d. 
 as^ means of assisLgThe'r^Sr^^^^^ to either end, 
 
 tie^teLrlt^^^^^^^^^ of benches. 
 
 ^he right, the maS on th? eft" t£ T'Tk^^^^^' ^^^^"^ «" 
 ahniif nvjo f>.,„r-~». " ' "le leu. ijiis row of benrhp*! n^...,.>;„j 
 
 n. q„„r.ur oi m. whole width, the rest being res^^ 
 
19 
 
 for the Shakers themsplvps \vu ^ 
 
 were seated on benches tS men and wn'' T''^' '^' ^^««r 
 ends of the room. "" ^"'^ '^^"^^n being at opposite 
 
 of IlTe%™btdrw^^ uniform costume, consisting 
 
 the figure and exfendTng Io;i?oXf 7^^ ''f '}'^ '^^^^'^^^l 
 shawl covering the neck anTh^ *^' ^^iV' ,^"d of a white lineH 
 
 hand a large IhiLn^p^L" ?Cn;as l^^^^ ''"^^ ^^^^ ^^ h- 
 dunng the course of the suhVeZZfV ^^'^^^^"^^ requisition 
 the room they took off and denl^LH ^''''"'''- ^^ ^"^^"ng 
 bonnet and ken displayed upC their"!.'' F^ ^ P^^^^ '''^^ 
 brilhantly-white muslin can nn A- i! • ^^'''^ ^ ^^^^ ^^at and 
 their arts of embemshment^had bee^^ '' ^°"^^ .^P^^^^ tbat aS 
 had immoderately higfLet like ",1?^''"*'"/^ ' ^^^^^ ^^oes 
 mothers. As to irson flf ' ^ ^^ose used by our arand- 
 
 instance that VreCked tTe:tinV^n''"".^^*^^" '^"^ ^ --y 
 new convert,) their faces wSe^and'^' (who probably was a 
 «ittmg as they did with S arm. . "f ^^",71 ^^ ^^^^ur, so that 
 respective benches, a W ^^^ J^ "^^^'^^'^ ^^^"^' «« their 
 preceding the commen^emenT 0^.1. '' ^"""^ ^^^ ^alf-hour 
 hke so many statuTs " ""^ *^' ceremonies, they looked 
 
 ind!;i^o^^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 in England would vCf^^TW^^^^^ ^T^T «^ '^^^^ 
 
 dmg set of men, with a oecnlL f ? ^'"f ^^ ^ ^arsh forbid- 
 rather stohd expres on oTcorteni^^ •^^"'"^^' ^^^^*^^' ^°d 
 ever, there was a degree of vvS! • .1' •'" ,'''™^ ^««es, how- 
 bordered upon insaSty S haTwas all" P^^'^^^^^^^ ^^^^b 
 and was combed straUt s'tW rr"'"^'"^ ^"^ ^''"^ behind, 
 shoulders, as with the Puritan of o/?"^ T' '^''' ^''^ ^"^ 
 might have been mistaken Trf , ?' '''^^™ ^""^6 of them 
 two black men an^ one colour H^'^'^ ""^^"^^^ ^be numbe" 
 achieved the difficult Tko"^^ '^'' ^^^^^ bave 
 
 country m that particular. There Tel^ /"''J k^'"'' °^ ^^'^ 
 
 J^arg^7fc?Ld';r^^^^^^ ^^^ ^-^-' -d the 
 oppositely placed one to the other n '° ''I'™' f^attalions, 
 sisted of fi4 ranks, each of sixteen ini'^""?^ ^^"^^on con- 
 seven, containing he same^uXr 0^"^""^'^ the females, of 
 
 ss^dr^^ve ^:z^ ni^trsmu^s^r 
 
 Hf 
 
 ir 
 
20 
 
 in order to give space for one of the elders to get up and address 
 the persons present, and, in order that he might be heard and 
 seen by the strangers beyond, the ranks on both sides slightly 
 receded more and more as they approached the side in whicn 
 the latter were stationed. Being thus marshalled, they began 
 their religious exercises by a song or chaunt, very monotonous 
 and somewhat harsh and grating, accompanied by a gentle 
 stamping of the feet, which seemed intended to keep time with 
 their voices. 
 
 This was followed by a very brief address or exhortation 
 from one of the elders, who planted himself between the front 
 columns. But little of it was audible where we were, and from 
 what I collected it did not seem worth listening to. Next com- 
 menced the great business of the day — the dancing. The first 
 dance consisted in a slow advance, of all the men and women, 
 five or six paces towards the wall, who then wheeled round, 
 and proceeded the same number of steps in the direction in 
 which the spectators were placed. All this was done with the 
 utmost gravity, and the most unbending rigidity of feature ; the 
 feet performing a sort of measured step, but the other parts 
 of the body stiffened, as though they were parts of so many 
 automata. 
 
 A pause at length took place, and the same elder who had be- 
 fore risen, availed himself of it to address the spectators, whom 
 he told in pretty plain language, that it was indecent to come 
 there and indulge mirth at the sight of exercises done with the 
 view of serving God ; that he must request them not to inter- 
 rupt the proceedings by getting up on the benches, talking to 
 their neighbours, &c., as had heretofore been the case. This 
 done, one of the most singular exhibitions I ever witnessed 
 came on. A portion of the men planted themselves in the 
 centre of the room, and began to sing a kind of monotonous 
 stave, and the remainder of both sexes, in files of three each, 
 began to dance, or rather amble, round and round them, in 
 such a manner that a continued series of men or women was 
 made to pass close to the front benches of the spectators; 
 whilst another series, consisting chiefly of the young and less 
 experienced practitioners, were kept in the back ground, sweep- 
 ing round between the groupe in the centre, and the back of 
 the room. 
 
 The men preceded, the women followed, each with the same 
 rigidity of feature, and the same measured pace as before, but 
 now having their arms extended before them, and moving their 
 hands up and down continually in so loose a manner, that one 
 might fancy them attached by wires to their wrists, and shaken 
 by the mere agitation of their persons. As each groupe, of the 
 women especially, approached me, it looked like a succession of 
 
21 
 
 as many spectres, so cadaverous and unearthly was their general 
 aspect. 
 
 After this had been gone through, one of the elders advanced 
 again towards the strangers' seats, and addressing himself 
 pointedly to them, declared how much happier he and his bre- 
 thren were in their despised condition, than the followers of this 
 world, (pointing to the seats), with all its pomp, and all its 
 vanity, and all its wickedness, and all its hes, and all its deceit. 
 
 Then commenced another species of dance, in which each file 
 moved forwards three steps, and as many back ; after which 
 several, who felt, I suppose, more than ordinarily inspired, began 
 to whisk round and round with the greatest rapidity, like so 
 many spinning Dervishes. The women, I observed, were most 
 expert in this exercise— but one or two of the men likewise at- 
 tempted it. This motion was continued much longer than even a 
 practised waltzer could have conceived possible^ and after it was 
 concluded, the exciting effects which it had produced often gave 
 rise to sundry other contortions of the body, which continued 
 for some time. The more phlegmatic, indeed, shewed it only 
 by a twitching of their arms and legs ; but others manifested the 
 excitement under which they laboured in a much more decided 
 manner. Several of the women appeared to be thrown into 
 violent hystericks, and in particular, one girl of seventeen, threw 
 up her handkerchief into the air, tore off her cap, and required 
 the care of two or three of the older women to hold her down. 
 One man, rather stout and short, with a large bald head, aqui- 
 line nose, and otherwise marked physiognomy, exhibited a degree 
 of wildness in his manner which savoured of insanity. After 
 his gyrations had ceased, he shook his head, squatted nearly 
 down on the ground, rose again, whisked round and round, and 
 performed various other fantastic evolutions, which one should 
 have some difficulty in beUeving to have been seriously intended 
 by any person in sound mind to do honour to the Supreme 
 Being. 
 
 Then followed another exhortation from the same preacher, 
 which was brief, and consisted as before of one idea repeated 
 two or three times over, in words nearly identical. The separa- 
 tion of the true believers from the world of sinners, their living 
 in a different element, their hungering after spiritual meat, and 
 thirsting after spiritual drink, &c., were the points I chiefly re- 
 collect to have been dwelt upon in these, and other subsequent 
 exhortations given in the course of the service. I can call to 
 mind nothing which a perfectly uneducated man, with a proper 
 share of self-confidence, might not have roadily been taught to 
 deliver after a week's drilling. A short respite from dancing 
 followed, which, however, was filled un bv the sirurin"" of a 
 hymn, accompanied as before by a stamping of the feet ; after 
 
 H *•. i 
 
 j 'I ■ 
 
 
 •h' f 
 
 it'li 
 
 I: '^ 
 
 1 •■ 
 
 i:» I 
 
 .! 
 
I n 
 
 22 
 
 which a dance took place similar to the former, excepting that 
 as a kind of chorus, both men and women, as they promenaded 
 
 By this time the requisite pitch of fervour seemed to have been 
 attamed,for m the place of the one chosen elder, who had before 
 addressed us, several, both men and women, from all parts of 
 the room, began one after the other to give expression to their 
 emotions. The^^ vyere in general brief enough, and confined 
 themselves to asmgle ejaculation or sentiment, reiterated in words 
 nearly identical, thus:-" I am determined to be obediem to 
 the laws of Christ !"-" I have no care for the lusts and nlea" 
 sures of this life !"_" I have not given them up in th thought of 
 coming back to them again !-I do not intend to do so -"-« T 
 am not ashamed of the gospel of Christ !" &c. Then the same 
 man who had so attracted attention before, came forwardsTn 
 front of the male spectators, brandishing about his arms hke a 
 drunken man and crying out, again and again,-" S the 
 testimony of Christ !-this is the testimony Sf Christ »'' 
 
 nnl n/Tf' ^'^''^''' ^^ •* °" ^'^"'^^ Occasions when some 
 fW L- °'^^''? ""^^ ^"'"^ «" ^" « strain more incoherent 
 than ordinary, a stop was put to his extravagance bv the strik- 
 mg up of a psalm which drowned the voice of the individual 
 
 Next, the whole troop were marshalled as before into two 
 battalions; after which they all dropped on their knees and 
 rose again after a few seconds. They then shook tSelves 
 violently from head to foot, in such a manner that every Imb 
 
 Xri 'i^/ "' T' ^^" '""'i '^ ^ *^^"^«1«"« motionf afTer 
 which, an elder exclaimed-" I intend to cleave unto God '» 
 
 upon which, the whole congregation cried—" So do I !— so 
 
 Then followed some fraternal and sisterly hugs, and several 
 of both sexes began to take each other by the hands, and dance 
 round and round One old man continued for some timebkb! 
 bermg like a child whilst two younger ones holding his hands, 
 and singing at he same time vociferously, supported him I 
 observed one of the females continuing a long time on her Siees 
 who went on without intermissi^on bowing her head and bodv 
 nearly to the ground, like a Chinese mandarin ^ 
 
 H.i^l. ^^^ ^''''■^'a^ the close of the service, when all present 
 had become excited to their highest pitch, one or two of them 
 began to address their exhortations more directly to the stra^ 
 frn'Ll" .^ ^voman in particular moving several times to and 
 
 %'Jr^tuii\u^'"" ^'"'^''' ''''^ ^" ''' ^"^ ™^""er like that 
 ot another Pythoness, went on exclaiming :— " The end of thp 
 
 world IS at hand-the word of God is to be preached to kindred 
 
 tongues and peoples-^yea, to kindred peoples and tongues-by 
 
 i I 
 
23 
 
 the despised society of Shakers-by the poor despised Shakers " 
 Towards the end one of the elders addressed^to us amore 
 connected and at the same time, a more audible (liHcourseZn 
 we had before heard He talked of the separation that had 
 taken place between the men of this world and those of the 
 next; he pointed to this very assembly as a proof of this sena 
 ration. He said, that God had punished us fo? our d sobed eT^ 
 with sundry plagues by land and by water, and tSnow was 
 
 ttVT/sh u"'' ''^^ ^l'^'^-*° '''''' ^«d to join him Tha? 
 they, the Shakers, were the saints, and all the rest of the world 
 sinners Lastly, that he had himself been forty years a ShXr 
 and had never regretted the pleasures he had given up ' 
 
 The above may pass for a sketch of the extraordinary picture 
 of fanaticism, exjiibited this day at ^ew Lebanon, wWchrhow^ 
 ever, absurd and irrational as it is, does, nevertheless appeir 
 to produce a phenomenon, which no worldly skill no feafof 
 temporal pams and penalties certainly coild accompfS I 
 mean the exercise of such a control oJer the animal pas^^Sns 
 and appetites as to maintain communities of men and^women 
 ivmg under the same roof in a state of almost total contin^ce 
 for the evidences of a breach of chastity amongst the femSes* 
 are very rare, and are punished, when they occur, by an imme- 
 diate expulsion from the society; nor could th; men indX 
 their passions, out of the precincts of the community" wSt 
 bemg soon detected and exposed. I am aware that^umoZ 
 
 mess of their complexions may seem to lend some countenance 
 but I believe there is nothing to corroborate any such susni- 
 cions, and it may be suggested, that any practices?Xh shoiSd 
 be sufficiently prevalent amongst them, to prevent the natural 
 consequences of illicit connexions from tLing place, 3 
 hardly escape detection for any long period, and would thus 
 before this time, have brought aboul the doUall of the ln2 
 
 fhH!!'? '"' ^^^^<''^' «ome truth in the remark that the women 
 hemselves are antidotes to the tender passion, but the IXw 
 and withered appearance they present seems to have arisen from 
 the r continuing as members of the society; for certa nlv soZ 
 of the fresh converts look more like beings of flesh an Abod 
 A gentleman, who attended one of these mietings some "ime a^o 
 related to me an anecdote, which went to shovfthaUhe^hake; 
 morality really did result from a strong feeling of duty such as 
 
 rhZt'ed'tL'"' ''' r ^^^-^"^"v^^' ti^eVost%;Ttites 
 
 It happened, that a young Georgian who was one of the soerta 
 tors, a remarkably fine man, had fixed his eyes pretty intemlv 
 upon one of the girls, who appeared to be Tne'rc^nvert tJ 
 
 i*. 
 
 H'-: 
 
 !|<;'»' 
 
 m, 
 
 
 t-i 
 
 r 
 
 m 
 
 ' 4 . ,.■ 
 
 I .'■ V 
 
24 
 
 p'^^'^n'Zt^^^^^^^ fe^tolerme looking fe. 
 
 herself to be struck by tl /oun/man vIS.V'™'' '^T ^''^ «««^^d 
 upon her. Her countLancHaf 1^^^ , k^'^^-^"^ ^^^n fi«d 
 and her emotions were "^ch as tf arJf;S'''^'''"^^*^^"^bied, 
 groupe of women near her Thev accor lin ^ '"'"^'«" ^^ ^he 
 terpose themselves, so as to intercept frn?i^-^"'™P^«^ ^o in- 
 a view of the youth who had Tn ^ 'u f^"" ^^^'"^ youthful sister 
 'ng this imprWaS^ty neTtnr"'!?^ ^^^^ but find 
 Bister was discomposed anj that thp n ""^ Pu"^"^^^ ^^at a 
 disturbance on her ought to leal th/ ''"" ^^« ^^"^^^ this 
 however, did not choose oohtvtK- T"^' ^^^^ Georgian, 
 he was not obliged to^ake to hi J« ^f '"^''* summons, which 
 ^^^^ at length th^ ShakeTwoman I'o tn «^l^°J*--^ ensued! 
 monstrations of excitement rid u»,^^^ '^''^ de^ 
 
 claimed, several times,-- Eschew devin\^'"!! ^'"i"^^ ^"^ ex- 
 
 feelmg, I fear that more enZh,p/n / ^'^ °^ '*'«»& religious 
 
 ~^ w Of appr ^^i^j- Si^£ z 
 
 ^^^^''^^7l^e\\^^^^^^^^^ by an niustration of 
 
 expect to find it spreading I wr fehid 5' 'i ^'^^ ^ ^^^ ^«' 
 habits, had resided in the parish iS "''^>^' ""^ ^^^^ ^oose 
 nuisances to the place andSbourhnT '^^^'^'^ ^« great 
 our arrival, a mob colIPPti^ ^ , ^'^d' ^n the nijrht of 
 
 pulled dow'n the roWlmlhTdX f""r ''T -hencfLd 
 nothing but the back rerSdn W tL^'""' ""^, ^^^es, and left 
 there sitting the next day in a ?iate of T'l"^^' ^^"^^^«« ^ere 
 landlord said it was a ffreat^L!^ u ""bj^ct destitution. Mv 
 difficult to find the offenders tTo' ^"' '"P^^^^ '' ^«"W be 
 distance, and so the affair rest's oJT"' ^' believed, from a 
 such an outbreak of moraUndi^naf^^^^^^ "'*^"^*^ understand 
 hibited m this lawless manner bvC ^^'""'^ Prostitutes ex- 
 Returned in the evening to m^l'd%tS"a1 Sn/ ^"^^"^^• 
 
 distance, twenty-five mile/ w.i ^ " *? Ballston Spa. The 
 
25 
 
 1 he remainder consiBfa,! <• S'^^oonJc acid 60 parts in fK ' 
 
 for the expansion caused bv^.hlfc,'''"''' """"-'"g ^ per S 
 •J;-pera.„e of .. o/r^feSi £-g 
 
 Park Spring 
 
 'i'he.en,pera.ure^fte''a.vr 'P^"'f' ^''^ ^^ 
 
 I had "o time ".ami^e^^f fduced this evening ,o „ , p 
 
 ains lime, much chkrine'^ hm '"'^ 'H »'««'• iW It cof ' 
 through which it r,=.i • ' ""J' "o sulphuric acid Tt ■" 
 
 %e ofBaSn oSof ? /""^bi'^inous Se. fe'^ 
 
 foretUeof Saratoga buwh!- ^^""^' ^^re discovered 2 
 been from some caus^;topp j ?" " "^'^ ^W^^ of watSvin; 
 more genuine water was ?o hi f j^^P^ession prevailed tharnn 
 hence acquired the ascTndancy! ^''^ ^"^ *^^ Saratoga Spring^ 
 
 Tuesday, September 12th ixr 
 
 Sa-^^^C^f-'f," -™--"He "pri'n^gs'-Vhf "^-^ '" 
 .hose calied^T; cL'^e^s'^V-'^^H ^'^ ^^^'^"^^l 
 ^ZT' ^T '™' ^«Se add but th '"°"" '" '"'^h cises 
 
 Ken S,r """"« '0 ^l"""' 5 per cent wh;T ™' -^ ^"sht resi- 
 gen and oxygen. ^ *^ '^™'' ™ich consisted of nitro- 
 
 i!L!!!!::i!!^^fPl»? the nitrogen was 85.0 
 
 ^-ring the usual amount (."^cen7ff„" T 't° 
 in New Congress the„ " "^ Phosphoric vapour, 
 
 "igress there appeared to be— 
 
 OZT ■■■■ '3-° 
 The water I had n .• '7° 
 
 i lie temperature of 
 
 S:Hrmife;if."-\-fr. 
 The Contrrps" s,,-:^ ° 49j 
 
 i" 
 
 51 
 

 t6 
 
 The rock about Saratoga was a hard quartsose sandstone. 
 
 The town consists of a number of very large hotels, and a 
 certain amount of shops, &c. llie United States, where I was, 
 makes up more than two hundred beds ; the dining and draw- 
 ing rooms are spacious, lofty, and handsome ; the bed rooms 
 small, and as usual, raw and unfurnished. The season lasts 
 little more than two months, when every place is crowded ; the 
 rest of the year it is a desert. Tiie immediate neighbourhood 
 presents no striking features, woods and recently cleared land 
 dividing the prospect. For the amusement of the company, a 
 speculator, from New York, has established, what he calls, a 
 circular railway, upon which a carriage, something like a velo- 
 cipede, is placed, which the person seated moves with great 
 velocity, by turning a wheel with his hands. 
 
 Wednesday, i3th. — After an early dinner, proceeded towards 
 Whitehall. Two ladies and their little boy filled the seat looking 
 towards the horses; two other ladies, each with a baby, and one 
 gentleman the second, and a lawyer, from Newhaven, my ser- 
 vant James, and myself, the farthest seat, with our backs to the 
 horses. I had here plenty of conversation, though some of the 
 Yankees maintained their characteristic taciturnity. 
 
 Mrs. TroUope's work came upon the tapis, and was as usual 
 abused ; but one lady remarked, that, with all its lies, it con- 
 tained, nevertheless, one truth — and that was, her setting forth 
 the grievous annoyance arising from the hope I do not intrude 
 system established in all country places throughout the coun- 
 try j in consequence of which, you are ne/er secure from inter- 
 ruption in your own house, ana are liable to be broken in upon 
 at all hours of the day by some Paul Pry or other, who enters 
 whenever he pleases, without even the ceremony of knocking at 
 the door, and inflicts upon you his presence for any length of 
 time that may suit his own convenience, without any regard 
 to yours. 
 
 The first place of any note we met with was Glen's Falls, where 
 the Hudson River tumbles boldly down the escarpment of some 
 black limestone rocks, which, from the existence in them of trilo- 
 bites, I presume to belong to an ancient date. Here, amongst the 
 rocks in the bed of the river, which are laid bare at this time 
 owing to the lowness of the water, is a cavern, or rather a wide 
 fissure, in which the last of the Mohicans was shot by his Mo- 
 hawk enemy, as described by Cooper. The tree still exists in 
 which the latter took his aim. We then proceeded to a very 
 cheerful looking settlement, called Sandy Hill, five miles beyond 
 which we left the stage, and proceeded by the canal- boat, along 
 the Troy and Champlin Canal, reaching Whitehall about eleven 
 at night. The Phoenix Inn is, indeed, aphanix in America, 
 
27 
 
 for civility, and the board and lodging are both excellent I nre 
 fer It, .n many re8,>ect8. to that eilhe? at Albany or S Yo?k 
 
 Thursday, i4th.-At one o'clock. I started for Montreal bv 
 he magnificent steam., acket the "Franklin," which S on 
 Lake Champhn It is the largest, as well as the cleanest and 
 best appomced that I have yet seen, even in America It s iSo 
 feet long, and is worked by two engines, each of iro horse 
 j,ower The sleepmg berths are much less crammed thin tholl 
 mthe Hudson vessels, and the cabin is more spacious as well 
 as more cheerful, and better lighted. The banks of the like 
 are exceedmgly varied and beautiful, finely wooded fom the 
 summit of the hills to the water's edge. The most strikbrpoint 
 of view, perhaps, is at Ticonderoga, where Lake Chf mn i„ 
 unites with Lake George. Beyond, on the north-east the 
 dTstance^""'"" '' ''^" "^"P^^^^ -- eonspi^uoSli Z 
 We passed the night in the vessel, and found ourselves about 
 
 tl t if f- "''' '''I breakfasted, and proceeded by ra'S 
 the St. Lawrence, where we met with another steamer waS 
 
 loTzz '^c^:r''' ^"' ^' ^-«^^^"«^^ reached s:;i^? 
 
 .f fhTl^i '' ^ ^^'^c t^''g^^'"» P^^^«' built in an island formed 
 at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa rivere It 
 presents rather an imposing appearance at a distance?from the 
 number of spires covered with tin, which glitter in the sun and 
 the handsome and lofty cathedral, which rises in the centre of 
 he city. On a nearer inspection one is apt to feel disappointed 
 for the streets are in general narrow and dull, with lU "eof 
 business st.mng, and few of the houses rise abive mediocritv 
 It is however, a respectable town, considering the scantv do 
 pulation of the province of Lower Canada, and contains ^I^ 
 told more wealth than any other city within its presets 
 
 The cathedral was begun in 1828, and the towers are still 
 wanted to complete it. It is a Gothic struc^urHr cted S 
 he grey marble found in the neighbourhood-internally vvan^n^ 
 m ornament, and less crowded, than most Catholic Eches 
 vnth altars and crucifixes. The other public buildings such 
 as the nunnery near the cathedral, which was the s^cene of 
 Maria Monk's supposed adventures, the hospital, the courts 
 of law &c., are plain, and at best deserve no further com 
 mendation than as substantial buUdings. ThereTs a mou" 
 ain at the back of the town, from the slope of which we 
 command a very striking view of the latter, and of the riv^r 
 
 i„Tt- 'V' -'TP^^^^ "/ '^' b^^^k l""««tone, so common 
 J' -"^oxriai oiiaia, bai is nere intersected by 
 
 n ■ 
 
 >* 
 
 
28 
 
 numerous dykes of trap, which traverse it, sometimes horizon-* 
 tally, but more generally vertically. They seem to run up the 
 mountain in all directions. 
 
 Montreal contains a few individuals addicted to science, 
 especially Mr. M'Cord, who keeps a very exact meteorological 
 register. It appears from his observations that the mean tem-* 
 perature of Montreal was — 
 
 In 1830 
 1831 
 1832 
 
 1833 
 
 47.8 
 
 In 1834 
 
 46.8 
 
 1835 
 
 44-7 
 
 1836 
 
 44.8 
 
 
 45.0 
 42.9 
 
 40.43 
 
 So that it would seem that the weather has been getting colder 
 during the last seven years. 
 
 On Saturday evening I proceeded by the steamer St. George 
 to Quebec, and found myself in the morning on the broad river 
 St Lawrence, the borders of which were studded with villages, 
 or covered with woods, presenting a Uvely appearance, though 
 nothing particularly picturesque or striking. At length, about 
 twelve, we came within sight of Quebec, and were gratified 
 with one of the most imposing spectacles that I have seen since 
 I visited the New World. The town itself contains, indeed, but 
 few buildings of any magnitude or beauty, and is, for the most 
 part, a congeries of second-rate or mean looking houses. But 
 its position, at the foot of and along the declivity of an abrupt 
 rock, gives it an air of importance, to which the fortifications 
 that crown the brow of the precipice greatly contribute. 
 
 The river for some distance round seemed covered with ves- 
 sels, no less than eighty sail having arrived a few days before. 
 Beyond is an undulating and apparently fertile plain, inter- 
 spersed with cottages, and, at a distance, is a range of pretty 
 lofty mountains. On the opposite side of the river is the island 
 of St. Orleans, also thickly peopled and well cultivated, which 
 may be compared to Long Island, near New York. But in 
 contrasting these two localities one with the other, it must be 
 allowed th i the features of the neighbourhood of Quebec sur- 
 pass, in grandeur and sublimity j*^ those of the former city, 
 though less varied and less amply provided with the softer ele- 
 ments of beauty. 
 
 The two sons of Mr. Chief Justice Sewell took me out on 
 Monday to see the celebrated falls of Montmorenci, where the 
 river precipitates itself down a ledge of rocks to the depth of 
 240 feet! (according to the guide book). The water at the 
 time was scanty in volume to what it is in the spring, when the 
 melting of the snows have commenced, but it was still grand 
 and magnificent. The geological structure of the rocks over 
 
inter- 
 
 29 
 
 ^firhich it falls is curious. From the margin of the river, nearly 
 up to the pomt from which the water precipitates itself, the 
 rock IS syenite, but just beyond the fall to the north occurs a 
 clay slate, which seems to rest, in nearly vertical strata, upon 
 the syenite Above this latter rock are horizontal strata of a 
 dark, foet 1, bituminous limestone, distinctly divided into beds 
 from one to six inches thick, so as to form a series of steps. 
 Ihis limestone contains trUobites, encrinites, and orthoceratites 
 We traced it to a point a little higher up the same river 
 where its waters are confined within a narrow ravine, which it has 
 cut in tiie limestone rock by gradual attrition. To the edge of the 
 stream as far up as the wood, which stretches about twenty feet 
 above, the rock is washed away in such a manner as to form a 
 senes of irregular natural steps. The limestone here contains 
 vanous peti. factions, but chiefly of the kinds already enume- 
 rated. It IS from this point that the river descends till it reaches 
 itated "^'""^ a* Montmorenci, down which its waters are preci- 
 
 There is also another geological curiosity at a village called 
 Beauport, where, at a height of about fifty feet above the St 
 Wence, occm-s a bed of tertiary shells, which I suspect to be 
 Lyell s pleiocene deposit. The strata are quite horizontal 
 Uppermost is a congeries, chiefly of bivalve shells, so thickly 
 crowded together as to leave little room for any cement. Though 
 very numerous, yet venericardia, tellina, solen, and natica, were 
 the only species I could collect. Below occurs a mixture of 
 bivalves with a few univalves, with more earthy matter inter- 
 vening The bed 18 altogether about ten feet thick, and rests 
 upon alluvial matter. 
 
 Tuesday, September ipth.-After breakfasting with my hos- 
 pitable friend. Dr. Skey, I went to the Indian village of Lorette 
 where, however, little trace of Indian costume, or even of Indian 
 physiognomy can be recognised. The villagers employ them- 
 selves, either m making toys, representing their canoes, utensils 
 and native dress, or in a rude and slovenly description of hus-' 
 bandry, bemg no longer nomadic. The river here forms a pic- 
 turesque cascade, but I preferred the scenery above, where it 
 tumbles over the rocks, foaming and murmuring on its way 
 
 Dined afterwards with Chief Justice Sewell, a distinguished 
 lawyer, and a very agreeable man, aged seventy-five, but with 
 all his faculties entire. 
 
 ^Wednesday, 20th.— Dr Skey drove me over to Woodfield 
 w.ere is a nice aouse, belonging to a Mr. Sheppard, command! 
 
 "1^1- J Y^^''^,^^ the river, and containing a good collection 
 of dried Canadian plants. ^ ^ouection 
 
 I'il 
 
 i \ 
 
 ( : 
 
• I,; 
 
 30 
 
 We afterwards went to the Heights of Abraham, the scene of 
 Wolfe s exploits, on which the races were at the same time 
 takmg place. I remarked that some of the ground was higher 
 than the citadel itself, so that if an enemy were to esta- 
 bhsh himself, as Wolfe did, on this elevated ground, it would 
 seem, to an unprofessional eye, that the fortress would be com- 
 manded. 
 
 A feeling of security has hitherto prevented the British Go- 
 vernment from taking the same precautions in fortifying the 
 contiguous ground, which the Prussians have thought not 
 superfluous even for their impregnable fortress of Ehrenbreit- 
 stein. 
 
 Dined with Lord Gosford, the affable and kind-hearted 
 Lrovernor of Lower Canada, who deserves a good word from 
 every one, if good nature and tolerant views towards his most 
 bitter pohtical opponents* are sufficient qualifications for such 
 a post in these troublous time^. 
 
 Thursday, 21st.— At six p.m., started in the steam-vessel for 
 Montreal, but, owing to the number of vessels we had in tow, 
 did not reach the latter place till Saturday morning, at eight 
 
 This evening, there occurred probably the finest aurora bo- 
 realis 1 had ever seen; not merely a bright arch of light, ex- 
 tending from north to west nearly on the level of the horizon, 
 but likewise numerous successive bright coruscations and 
 streaks, shooting out from this brilliant zone, and reaching 
 sometimes to the zenith. The phenomena continued for more 
 than an hour. 
 
 
 * I had an amusing instance of the rapidity with which informa- 
 tion in the present day circulates, as well as of the caution which 
 ought to be observed, in repeating any thing that may pass in one's 
 casual intercourse with official persons, from seeing in the Times news- 
 paper, not three months afterwards, a report of a conversation that 
 passed at table between Lord Gosford and an English traveller, relative 
 to Papineau. The reporter quoted it as a proof of his Lordship's easy 
 and careless good nature, that he askfd his guest whether he had 
 brought letters to Papineau, and upon his replying in the negative, 
 added, it was n pity, for that he was, in the main, a very good fellow, 
 and a little time ago he should have been happy to have given an in- 
 troduction himself : " it is tnie," he added, " he says hard things of 
 me sometimes, but he does not mean half what he says." 
 
 As the substance of this conversation actually passed, when I had 
 the honour of sitting next to his Lordship at table, I suppose I must 
 have reported it, as an instance of Lord Gosford's forgiving temper, at 
 
 " t / '" "v.ir lit tiic C'liiicu dtatcn, tinu mm ii imu thus lounrt 
 
 its way to England, and ultimately to the Times. 
 
31 
 
 treel the Lulal tt^r;h^V';^ier;\i;f •:»--<• -'•> 
 variety to features which wnnlrl nf^ • T ^^^' ^"^ g^^e 
 
 on my road. '"' ""^ '^"' """'"ig remarkable 
 
 Mr^M'£d't*r„r?'l '^''^ 7"' ^^'' «P™« "t Montreal. Saw 
 the B^lsH Weiat.n .or^^.^llX^XS s^afi^^^ 
 
 ammunition for that citadel, accompuZ"n7theii?fe i""^' 
 
 :nrtK;r;Se^^ratfr ''-''- 
 
 Kp3?enHr "-' -^-rs^^^^^^^^ s 
 
 s^!Se^'SS--r^;M 
 
 thaLth their iuTumnal'tnts now n'hlir'fuU Z^"''''"''"' 
 them they afford flne materialsTor a pic ure The Z.T" 
 
 inlands, almor:ro :L:h':re%ovetd wLUr'"'; "1 '"l"^ 
 
 the^^'^Vo-Ui^tZh^tS; 7or„1r:^^^^^^^^^ 
 of gardens. Why is this ? I ,vas told tW.ir..!?'^ t"""'^, 
 «) ihem— but can this be true' If ."„" 'v^ihZL'',""':""^'";^'^ 
 he interfere J ' """ """ "•""^'e does 
 
 r * 
 
 ;:.« 
 
 
 I 
 
 11 
 
 ''l 
 
lil i!:!:l 
 
 ftl 
 
 At Grenville we resumed our steam conveyance, stoppini?, 
 however, unt.l the morning, to allow of the arrival, by the canal, 
 of the barges which our first steamer had taken in tow. These 
 did not come up (one of them being aground in the canal) till 
 about eight, a delay which caused us to spend another night on 
 the water before arriving at Bytown. During our voyage this 
 day the same character of scenery prevailed; the banks of thfe 
 nver flat, but wooded to the very water's edge j partial clearings 
 occurring, but the evidences of cultivation few and far between, 
 Ihis part of the Ottawa does not appear a favourite resort for 
 colonists : the land is, I believe, barren, the soil sandy. Here 
 and there some lovely islands, covered with timber, rise in the 
 midst of the waters, and, upon the whole, the voyage of this day 
 presented beauties of the same kind, though, perhaps, not 
 quite equal m degree to those of the day preceding. 
 
 Wednesday, 27th.— ITiis morning I found myself at Bytown, 
 which, irom Its commanding situation and centra, position, 
 seems marked by nature, at some future period, as the capital of 
 Upper Canada. Even in its present embryo condition it is 
 certainly a picturesque spot, though injured by the injudicious 
 cleanng of its timber. The view from Captain Bolton's house 
 IS particularly sinking. We see from thence, not only the un- 
 dulations of the river at that point, and a finely wooded island in 
 the midst of the waters, but also from the back ground, at some 
 distance, the rapids and falls of the Chaudiere. I took a walk 
 to the latter, and consider, that though not remarkable for 
 height, they surpass in grandeur those of Montmorenci. 
 
 1 he river descends over a ledge of rocks, which stretches 
 across its channel, but is broken in such a manner as to cause the 
 water to flow, not in one continuous stream, but in a series 
 of rapids or minor cataracts on the one side, where the rocks 
 constitute a series of steps, and, on the other, to be precipitated 
 into a sort of gulf formed by the removal of the rocks below, 
 which IS called " La grande Chaudiere," the great Caldron. 
 Advantage has been taken of that portion of the stream which 
 descends by a series of falls, instead of by one great one, and 
 which IS consequently more manageable, to construct three 
 channels, one suificiently gentle for canoes to descend, and the 
 other two forming an incHned plane, down which raft-timber 
 can be projected. Over these falls a wooden bridge, of very 
 hold construction, had been thrown, but it has unfortunately 
 given way, so that, until its place is supplied by a chain bridge, 
 or some other expedient, the only communication across the 
 nver is by a ferry. 
 
 Bytown itself consists of two collections of hnu«pa t]\^nAnA K,r 
 a hill, and distinguished as the Upper and Lower towns. It 
 
33 
 
 the ghosts of deparHtrtri^^^^^^^ or withered stumps, 
 
 to the place. ThisXwev;r^Ts a t? ' '"^ melancholy look 
 settlements, and BytownTn; IrfffV ' ".T"^^^ *« ™o«t »ew 
 whilst, in the aspec of its houZL^'' ul''' ^" *^^^ ^^^P^^*^ 
 vance of many. I may Lmark h. ^habitants, it is in ad- 
 new settlement' and Scarcely an^oldn^''' *^f ^ ^'^^ «««" »« 
 Sandy-hill, which exhSTyVener;^^^^^^^^^ *^^«"^h 
 
 Xh'shv^f^e^*^" ^^-^' t^-Sd^reTf t^nl??^^^^^ 
 pu^^e^:^^^^^^^^^ of^Sarracenia pur. 
 
 situ at Bytown and neiXbonrhnn.! • ^i"' ^^^^^ ^^^nd m 
 
 limestone, loaded with oS^^^ ^* dark, foetid, 
 
 and Montreal. The CaSn had ?" ' J-^'^ If ^^ ^' Quebec 
 veral species, both largeTnd smaU thrw '" ^^^"lobites of se^ 
 tite), turritelte, encrSLs rom^. the Huron fossil (orthocera^ 
 fossils. The organ rreLTnTa^^^ 
 Chaudiere falls. ^ "' ^'' ^^"^ abundant near the 
 
 Captains Glasgow and Swinton Wt rr,. • .i. 
 Kingston, and in^he evening f'p^ocedS to inin .T™"^ ^^^ 
 which was to carry me still fHrJilri. ^°^" ^^^ steamer, 
 diere, and other faHs, preyent ^het, "^f '''^''' ^' ^^^"' 
 than Aylmer, a settleit n^L ^^^^^^^^^^ P^K'^^in^ further 
 
 Bytown. We were therefore cSBpelkf^tak.^^^^ 
 kmd of carriage as before, for a distance of It V^' '""^^ 
 road not much better than that t?Grenvme At""^^^^^^ 
 me with rather a superior descrintirm ?f • ^- f^Y^^^^ we 
 us in so wild a country • bntThp Wu ^/""' '"^^'^^ surprised 
 
 intervals throughout^ wtlfd sTat'eTom Z^^ ^^^'^ ^"^^^ 
 seen a succession of rather fiA^fll I ^^^^wn, was to be 
 
 wanting in the essen tia f Xmforf V^''^^^ f^'^'^^'^y "«* 
 and other labourers, are from two tn^ ^'' °^ ^5™ ''^^^"t«' 
 and when the lower rate is^ivTn M P""""^' ^ ^^^^h, 
 
 hoard besides. Along the ^rfrrnf^ ?T'' *« ^^^^ their 
 
 ings were new, and corequentTv T ""^ '^' '^/^ '^' '^'^- 
 uninyiting. consequently the aspect of the country 
 
 in m^ ^^^th^^^U;:^ ^ -- Irish, .ho ..i„ 
 not very easy to briiiff them uruZlu !, " ^^'^ ^'^'^ country it is 
 in wet>ath'er, ar^^ostilt 1^^ '^-^ -'''' ^^^ 
 
 or rather ponds of water thar^™ in" "/"""' ^"*^ ^""° puddles 
 threshold of the houTes ' ^ ^^'^^'^ *° ^«"««t «* the very 
 
 *'l 
 
 , 
 
 m 
 
 f ■ i 
 
34 
 
 Thursday, 28th.— This morning I proceeded still further up 
 the nver, by a fresh steamer, and reached, at the termination 
 ot our voyage, a very picturesque expansion of the waters, called 
 the Lake de Chaudere. Here the water descends, by a series 
 ot rapids or falls, to a depth of twenty or thirty feet, which in fine 
 weather must have a beautiful appearance. The whole pleasure of 
 the voyage was however spoiled to me by the incessant rain, which 
 prevented my leavmg the cabin, or seeing anything more than 
 the general aspect of the country, which, where not recently 
 cleared, or, what is worse, prepared for clearing by scorching 
 the trees, was finely and thickly wooded. At the extremity of 
 the Lake de Chaudere I took leave of my fellow passenger, an 
 agent of the Hudson's Bay Company, who had to a- end the 
 nver 300 miles further, to Lake Temiscoming, bv bark -f noes 
 manned by Canadians, trusting to the shelter of a tent in wet 
 weather, and sleeping out in the open air in fine. 
 
 Several villages, or rather hamlets, are scattered along the 
 margin of the lake; indeed, the country is settled for fifty miles 
 higher up. The trade in timber finds employment for a large 
 portion of the time of the settlers, red and white pine being the 
 kinds principally sent down for sale to Quebec, to supply the 
 Lnglish market. ^^ ^ 
 
 The weather prevented my landing during our short stay at 
 J^itzroy, or going to see the Lake du Chat above. The slip- 
 pery nature of the soil, which was clayey, prevented my walking 
 lar. l<ound a syenitic rock near the point at which we stopped, 
 which appeared to be in situ. A moose deer was killed a short 
 time back near this spot. Musk-rats are common; beaver less 
 so. Ihe Hudson's Bay Company had a station here, but have 
 sold their property, the settling of the country having much 
 diminished the amount of game. 
 
 The Ottawa divides the upper from the lower province, but 
 both Its banks are principally inhabited by British emigrants, 
 few of the old French settlers having extended themselves so 
 1^. Ihe feeling is, therefore, here decidedly anti-Papineau. 
 Ihe captain of the steamer, who is a member of the Representa- 
 tive Assembly, has evidently no sympathies with that demagogue. 
 
 Friday, 29th.— This morning embarked on board the steamer, 
 which conveys passengers and luggage from Bytown by the Ri- 
 deau Canal to Kingstown. The communication between the two 
 places is partly natural and partly artificial; the point aimed at 
 being to connect by canals several existing lakes and rivers, 
 and at the same time to deepen them in some places by dam- 
 ming up the current, and to interpose locks in others, where 
 
 :~r .i.ierijr v^^vuncQ. xiwiu uyiuwu a canai ana several 
 
 locks connect the River Ottawa with the Rideau River, along 
 
35 
 
 which we proceeded for a considerable distance. At the Ho.r's 
 Back, a dam forty-five feet in height, is thrown across Hp 
 stream and the great body of water is caused tHall down two 
 artihcial cataract, on the eastern banks of the river Pr? 
 ceeding from the Rideau River to the Rideau Lake through 
 a senes of locks, which take the place of the rapids prevSj 
 existing, we reached at length the summit level" whfch^s 202 
 
 From thence, we graduallv descend by the aid of a numerous 
 
 that what had before descended hlZ^^^^JoT L7ie to 
 flow down by four locks, each fifteen feet in height ♦Thp 
 scenery about Jones's Falls is extremely picturesque Frnrn 
 thence to Kingston the country has a gL^and desolate aT 
 pearance The creek or river of Cataraqui is Lre taken advan" 
 tage of, the fal of water at Kingston Falls bein/broken hlT. 
 construction of four locks, each'eleven feet eigSches „ hJi«ht 
 Between these locks and the entrance to the harbor of S 
 ston, for a considerable way, the water is remarknhW li 1 ^" 
 and the navigation difficult/' The totalnumSS b tweZ 
 Bytown and Kingston is forty-seven: the entire distance b^in^ 
 one hundred and twenty-six miles. Having three bales to 
 tow along, the steamer proceeded at a provokingrslowTace 
 Snglr '"'^'^ "^^^^' ^" ^^^"^'^ beforrweTeafhed 
 There is something, however, novel and striking to the eve of' 
 an European m the aspect of the country througKchw7had 
 passed. Sometimes moving along in the midst^of^ narrow a^d 
 winding stream, hemmed in on either side by forests, K ?p- 
 
 Jh h^J'^Ti'^'' ''" *^^ ^•'^^^" Canal states that the dam is built 
 
 VI iweuiy-seven teet. Ihe wall is sixty- two hie-h from thu t\.,„^ 
 tion, and about four hundred feet long ; it is stSthenTd hi 1 ; 
 gravel to the thickness of three hundfed fee at^hf basP h.^Lf ^ ^"'^ 
 to about sixty feet at top It forms an Trl^l'inst h^tl rS 
 
 hUatrhV'/^"'^''' '^' ^r '^ '^^^ '•-PirfJmmediately across tS^ 
 bed of the stream, between lofty rocks. This dam is, witLut exc^n! 
 on the most stupendous and perfect of its kind in thrworld Tnd 
 IS alone worth the expense and tmnblp nf o ,.;»;, rJJu ?",' ^"" 
 iramed in the solid rock, to the westward of the dim Itl short' dT 
 tance below it, and are of the prodigious lift of fifteen jfeet e^h 
 
 > i * 
 
 ■ H 
 t i 
 
36 
 
 pear as yet untouched by the hand of man; at other times 
 emerging mto a lake, diversified by wooded islands, and 
 stretchmg out in all directions into a number of creeks and 
 bays, connected with other pieces of water, of which the eye 
 only reached the commencement. The perfect silence that pre- 
 vails m these regions, the absence of all signs of human life, 
 excepting what was contained within our own steam-boat and 
 Its accompanying barges, and the rarity even of birds or other 
 animals m the forests, that extend to the edge of the water, and 
 appear to stretch to an interminable distance into the interior, 
 impart a solemnity to the scene, and compensate for the want 
 of bolder features in the character of the surrounding country. 
 btiU, there is a great monotony in that eternal succession of 
 forests, which stands in the place of all other objects, or is 
 only broken at intervals bv a clearage, in which the stumps, 
 and often the withered and leafless trunks of trees that hjive 
 been scorched and destroyed by fire, are seen scattered over the 
 face of the land. But the most sombre and disagreeable feature 
 that presents itself has arisen out of the construction of the 
 canal itself, which, by damming up, and altering the course of 
 previously existing streams and lakes, has caused the land on 
 the banks to be in many places overflowed, and by this means 
 has brought about the destruction of the trees that there over- 
 spread the country. These for the most part still remain 
 standing, though leafless, covered with moss and lichen, and in 
 every state of decrepitude, so as to present a most forlorn and 
 woe-begone appearance to the eye. A few have already fallen, 
 and occasion some danger to the navigation. About eighteen 
 months back, a steamer was transfixed by one of these pieces of 
 timber, and foundered in consequence. The engine and cargo 
 were removed, but the vessel still remains in the midst of the 
 water at the place where the accident occurred, the difficulty of 
 getting her up being thought too great to be worth encoun- 
 xtermg. 
 
 Kingston is built near the point at which the waters of Lake 
 Ontario discharge themselves into the river St. Lawrence. 
 The river Cataraqui forming a considerable expanse of waters 
 here discharges itself into the lake. Over the stream a wooden 
 bndge of considerable length is thrown, connecting the town 
 on the one side with the barracks and fort on the other. The 
 fort now erecting is of great strength, and may be defended 
 by a single regiment. It consists of two stories, the barracks 
 being above, the stores, &c., below, and is built of the compact 
 limestone found in the neighbourhood. 
 
 On Tuesday morning I proceeded on mv way towards To- 
 ronto, by the Bay of Quinte, having preferred' the steamer which 
 
>ther times 
 lands, and 
 creeks and 
 ich the eye 
 :e that pre- 
 luman life, 
 i-boat and 
 is or other 
 water, and 
 le interior, 
 r the want 
 g country, 
 cession of 
 iects, or is 
 le stumps, 
 that have 
 d over the 
 ble feature 
 ion of the 
 course of 
 le land on 
 his means 
 here over-- 
 ill remain 
 en, and in 
 irlorn and 
 idy fallen, 
 t eighteen 
 e pieces of 
 md cargo 
 1st of the 
 fficulty of 
 1 encoun- 
 
 8 of Lake 
 Lawrence, 
 of waters 
 a wooden 
 
 the town 
 ler. The 
 
 defended 
 I barracks 
 5 compact 
 
 '■ards To- 
 ler which 
 
 87 
 
 takes that direction to the one that crosses the lake, both from 
 the chance of meeting ^v.ith tempestuous weather on the onen 
 expanse of water, and from a wieK f^ ..« a ®P^" 
 
 borders of the bay. The ktter s fo t J f '°""*;>^ "" *^« 
 cultivated on the^ ide of thfmain l.nH Tf fvf" '^'^'^^ ^^^ 
 
 elevated above the water, and%tre wt „oS''?.f°»''''^'''i^ 
 to impart variety to the Uni.cl.lVu^b ">ve'"whS be?ut^ 
 It possesses to the rich fahiurp r^f th^ ♦ wndtexer oeauty 
 
 cotlntry. and the .JfllSthaf '^:urZC^^,^^:^ 
 the mam-land and the peninsula ^-'wnnei Detwixt 
 
 Canalan^'c7net''V/'''"''^' T^t "P«" '^^^ ^^^^ure of 
 i^anaaian scenery. I he sun was bright to-dav till after mJH 
 
 till eleven o clock, but m sp te of the lateness of tl,« l!! 1 
 
 with very comfortable aceo'mmodalns for the night Th?™ 
 ■ndeed found great reason to be satisfied with the dean inir 
 
 n^'^ortelt^- 
 
 :Mete ^^^;&i:^ 
 
 Wednesday October 4th.-Proceeded this morning bv th*. 
 8 age, a rumbling conveyance, like those I had Ee met v^th 
 
 ZZTV'n^'"""'' r'^ P'-^^^'^d themseives on ihe bor 
 
 wdl as attention to comfort in their construct?™'^ '^ " 
 
 ;vh,ch jumbled us nnmercifuUy in our heavy ,^£ce m cotn ' 
 il= f' '?' ""' """f P"'' I'^enrfeared long enough fortheTes" 
 tiges of stumps to be removed, a great solai foran eve wearied" 
 SLlt rf ;tr "rt"' S^'t-vered with half scSd and 
 ort:airei*;a^o^,;eeta'th^i;^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 I- 1 
 
 '.•■'i» 
 
 '»» 
 
 f 
 ■ I' ■ , 
 
 , > I 
 
 ^ ' 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 ■ ■ .: 1 
 
 I"' 
 
 '■ ' ' 
 
 
 ' 
 
 * ':! 
 
 
 . 
 
 'A 1 
 
38 
 
 it consists are clean, and cheerful-lookin^. The Academy, at a 
 
 front .uZ''' I'aV^' imposing buildTng, with a portico in 
 tront surmounted by a cunola, and two wings. It was erected 
 til M t^'?*?" amongst tlie members of that numerous sect, 
 the Methodists, but is not restricted to persons of this persuasion! 
 
 Thursday, r.th.-This morning, the wind blew so high, and 
 
 ton.t ""f '"^ '°"^^' ^^.V^^ steamer from Kingston could not 
 touch, as It was expected she would have done, to take up pas- 
 
 Trr ; ? ^ u^'^' P^^""' -V".*^" mail-coach (what a misnomer !) 
 arrived, which was not till tour o'clock. I had then to submit 
 to seventy-two miles of travelling, over infamous roads, in a 
 waggon without springs, and with nothing but curtains to keen 
 out he cold on the sides The night was Chilly enough, and he 
 whole of It, as well as the next day till forenoon, w!s spent in 
 
 s?«lT7lf^'"'5- -^""^ '' *^' ^"^^ ^« b^ ^«"^^«^ed at, when the 
 state of the roads is takenmto account, the deep holes, rather 
 than ruts, that lay in the midst of it, the trunks of trees stand, 
 of "P ? 7^."'*"' ^"te^'^als, &c. We passed over a bridge with 
 a large hole in its centre, and several rotten timbers, that seemed 
 
 ^ncTv.^^" I- ^f ^"T^ ''"'' ^^^''y ^^^*^le- At night the passage 
 must be positively dangerous. After passing Fort Hope, the 
 
 nprp\''''"'^r?" ^ ^^'^ ^^^^"^^^ ^t^^« of cultivatioi than 
 near Lobourg Even as we approached Toronto there were few 
 
 T w.!''i ^ ^ * ""^ ^""'^'^ encircling the to^vn for some distance. 
 1 was glad to see some symptoius of macadamizing as we came 
 near, though in too infant a state for us to profit much by it. 
 
 On Friday, about two p. m., reached Toronto, which though, 
 i.\T^ ^' A"^^"can towns, rather in an embryo condition 
 jet holds out more promise of prosperity than any other place I 
 We seen in the Canadas. Its population at present do^es not 
 much exceed io,ooo persons, but the streets, which are wide 
 and straight, stretch for a distance of nearly two miles, from 
 
 forthm' ^^T%'^' lake. These .^r..^.,' however, consist 
 for the most part of houses with gardens or void spaces inter- 
 vening, and towards the extremity are at such distances apart, 
 that we should naturally imagine ourselves in the country, if 
 not reminded by the name of the street placed up at intervals, 
 that we are still within the precincts. 
 
 wJ^•'"^'^^i'*fi"^^•'P^'^^^"o"^^ ^^r 100,000 people within 
 what is called the city and should Canada increase in popula- 
 tion as may be looked for, there is no saying whether, in a 
 century, loronto may not attain that amount of population, 
 /here are, at present, more genteel and respectable honsa. than 
 m Montreal and Quebec, all erected since the last American 
 
S9 
 
 war, at which time Toronto was twice taken and burnt Itn 
 situation along the borders of the lake is agreeable thou Jh'thprP 
 are no distant objects, either on the side of tL land or Se wat^^^^^ 
 to unpart variety to the prospect. There are sol ittlS 
 public buildings, likewise, built of brick simh a« fV,» r ii 
 the Parliament Buildings,' the Coill'tC^" I'^d atSd 
 avenue of half a mile in length, leading up o a iLt which Is 
 fixed upon for the future University. I sL no rlson whv it 
 should not, some time or other, vi'e with those of the UnTd 
 
 The surface water of Lake Ontario is transparent and tasfP 
 less; IS specific gravitv is so nearlv that of diSd vvater Tl at 
 I could not estimate tlie precise difference. NitratrTf si ver 
 produces no precipitation ; acetate of barytes non^ oxalate of 
 
 cTuX:sVw;tL^^^^^^^^^^^ «^ -~s^a 
 
 to dryness/left o^f soli^eltiVuronlytrgrir^^^^^ 
 a'Znime" "'*"' ^^" *""^ of mu'ria^^Ld sulpTurL"?^ 
 
 Monday, October pth.-I dined with the Governor Sir F 
 Head, and met there, besides Ladv Head anH Mro n i V 
 
 and several others. Spent a verv aareeahlp Hal ^- i? •* 
 is somewhat reserved at his own tabfe and it f/' i ' ^'"""I 
 
 hous occur an aloTa' 'w '"'"' *^"^^"^ ^"^"^« ^"^ cheerful 
 
 ^IT' ""''""'^' "^ "^^^^ ™«^-« ^^« co~mcki? 
 
 There is a gradual rise from Toronto till we apnroach T akp 
 Simcoe and but little descent, comparatively to thelatlr l2. 
 
 trees exhihiHnron "fV. " u ' ^i'"^ "^ isJantls, covered by 
 trees, exhibiting aU the richness and variety of the autumnd 
 
 r • 
 
 !!, 
 
 I. ' 
 ,1 
 
 ..' » 
 
 
 : V 
 
 I ' 
 
 
40 
 
 most p,ctures,|„e |,art was the Narr™„ where I akeSin, 
 
 covered by torests. ^ear the narrows is a village nartlv nf 
 Indians, some of whom were sppn in n ^Iff ^ ' ^ ^ ^* 
 
 bivouacking round thei^firl La th lake' .t L'nir T'' 
 the steampr hnlfprl tk^ i • ' '^"^ ^"^ P'^^e where 
 
 to Mrferln'';;^''"'^'^ ""^ 'i'^"'" fro-" 'he Narrow, 
 lo ivir. i^aiiy s, m the parish of Oro, where I stnnnPfl anri fi, 
 
 tWs r^oTeCt"}?! "' "^^ '"'^ '"' b-' cllsrof se'ttfei'" 
 Ind wlr ^Mr i al7v'', r,"':™"^'"-^ '■' "« --^Sards boa S 
 
 rectly from the iioor, that to stand upriaht excent in thf^n, 
 was ™possible. There was a veranSah s ,'r ouSn^ th e'eTid^' 
 w2': fc-g^ln" '''""' " ^--^^ - "- P-' "f 'he c^umr;! 
 
 so»^tif:;;rre^:SeTi^hi:rtZtvst uCe^^' r 
 
 ncuse of an English gentleman irMrsLr I ?.w •''' 
 
 tomed to the comforts and'thf Ltr ro'ran"V„S' hou"- 
 hold. Smce the summer of last year she had S sleot off 
 the premises; she was totally destitute of femak soctof- ^n 
 front was the lake, the only 4ans of commun"eL„ wulher 
 
 prospects. ' ' ^ °' *e Lake, presents some agreeable 
 
41 
 
 a Kood pedestrian, «he had nn7« .Ti .''V''""''^l"*^"^*«' though 
 of the last year, and aU v t"! wf f,! t"?!"''^" '" '''^ ^«"-« 
 ocular proof, from the scantinirof lerv^^^^^^^^ ''Tu'""' "« ' ^^^ 
 In fact, heils are unknown Tthin ^L ^' ^"^ ^^^''* '""^"ess. 
 and the servants do noT "va L ^'TT^' "^ ^^^^^ «i"^c«e» 
 retire. ""' ''^^'*' ^"^ '"erely leave the dishes and 
 
 J:Z^^f^ i:^^^^^ fhinU, that energies and 
 been squandered a vayTn 'he chom^n ^.t^^^^^"' should have 
 which a common hind could ZC^ ^"^ ^''''' ?"^ in labours 
 years ago, in the month Tvi ^ ?™ ''' '""^h better. Six 
 on Lak? Simcoe ra'ge \t o^rio'^ the thermomet^^ 
 
 clearing of his estate, with n a mon?h nff'' ^""'^ ^" ^^»«" ^^e 
 He lodged in a comm n«}f ^ ""^ ^' ^'"^^^ i" the colony 
 cowshed, which stnirTmains"'^' ""' ^''^'' ^^^" «" *^ngS 
 must have encount red an3 „er ' J^'^JT' °^ ^^« ^^''d^hips he 
 Nvinter, the succeed n^^umS and t^7?/^^ ^^^°^« ^'^hat 
 clearmg with his ownliands the iIh l^ /«"«T'"^ ^'"^^r- in 
 His spirit at the thne carried hi^ 7t"^ t ^.^^ P^^-^hased. 
 tnumphantly, but I fear that he has'feU Th^effe' ^t/^*^«"« 
 and after six years labour when h « Ifff u • *^ ^^ ^* ^^nce; 
 settled and more promisWasoec Tu ^-'^'"^ 'e^^^^ « "^^^e 
 quishing it for the .SoTh of Xnce on fT"' '" *H"^ «^ ^«^^"- 
 surely is a losing speculatrnn fnr o ' S *^v f'^'"''^ "^ health. It 
 ever may be his LtSr xpectaS ^."^^''^ fntleman, what- 
 estate; such should be leftT the r^^^^^ to purchase an uncleared 
 backwoodsman, and when thp nr.r -^^ ^?™«^' «^ the regular 
 Plished, it is tmreruThforTh '"'7r'^«"'^«thu8ac?om. 
 small, to step in, and "o n.fr^>>l fJPitalist, whether great or 
 and rendering it profitab^ ^ ' '^' P"""^«^ «f improving 
 
 P«tt"tL't?^ 
 
 were, with the stumps of the treeffh^ri^ k '^^ '^''''^^' ^« it 
 with one's view everywhere excent in fr '^ ^''" '"''"°^^'^' ^"^ 
 forest, which spreads to an Sa ? ^"^^nt, intercepted by the 
 Surely, this is not a positLn w^'' T^f ^" "" ^^^^^^^n^- 
 any but those who are unaMe to If ? '^ u^""^ attractions to 
 native land. With reaa^d o .L "I'''" themselves in their 
 
 localities, it is /,nW.vvhXxestherntr''^ ^^^ '''''' *« «»^h 
 induced them to leave tLirownlf'''^';*^'^"^"'^* ^^^^h first 
 
 as important personages aCn^^t^hl'^ ' '^'^7^^ of moving 
 which deters them from sinkTn "?n T-"^ ''"'^^«' ^^^ j.nWe 
 
 .With regard to the TeSe ?. n^ r "/f °' ?'"^^ ^^ home. 
 tries, I ha?e the assuiSce of more h. '" *^' '^" '"""- 
 
 sairi" o™-,--^ "ictiicc ui more than nno ooffl — ..-i... ., 
 
 *amv auiuui-i expended on agriculturp in "fi,1 1"/ 7" ' '""^ *"^ 
 
 «t8"cuiiure m the old country would 
 
 
 * '''■', 
 
 i 
 
li 
 
 produce equal results, for when summer commences, the con- 
 cerns of husbandry succeed each other with a rapidity which 
 we have no idea of at home, and here nothing can be done by 
 deputy, so that the Canadian gentleman works much harder 
 than the EngUsh farmer. 
 
 The young men brought up in these distant settlements 
 seldom turn out well; it is difficult to educate them, and still 
 more so to preserve them from bad company ; so that it would 
 seem, that if a gentleman of small fortune contrives by migrat- 
 ing into Canada to keep himself from losing caste, he cannot 
 prevent his children from doing so, seeing that a residence in 
 the backwoods inevitably degrades them more, than an appren- 
 ticeship to farming or to mechanical employments in the old 
 country would have done. 
 
 Friday, 13th.— I took a ramble with Mr. Lally, and traced 
 for a little way the terrace or ridge-road, which, I am told, ex- 
 tends nearly round this lake, as it does round Ontario, indicat- 
 ing, IS is supposed, that the waters once stood at this higher 
 level. 
 
 After fighting our way through a dense forest, we reached at 
 length a recent clearage, which had till lately been in the occu- 
 pation of a half-pay officer. This poor man, with a wife and 
 ten children, lived in a house consisting of three rooms, a 
 kitchen, parlour, and bed-room; but his wife became insane, 
 and in one of her fits, broke loose, and wandered into the woods, 
 where she continued five days before she could be found. She 
 was, however, alive, having subsisted upon berries, but has 
 continued mad ever since. 
 
 In these vast forests, indeed, one part of which is an exact 
 counterpart of another, it is by no means uncommon for persons 
 in their sound senses to lose themselves within a few miles of 
 their homes, and it has happened to them to become so com- 
 pletely bewildered, that they have wandered for days round and 
 round a given point, almost in a circle, without making all the 
 time any nearer approach to their destination. 
 
 But the great annoyance of this country is the plague of mos-^ 
 quiioes, of which there is a larger^ and a smaller sort, together 
 with that of black flies and of sand-flies. Such is the misery 
 these insects occasion, that the settlers generally, in summer, 
 regardless of the heat, fill their houses almost to suffocation 
 with smoke, in order to get rid of these tormentors. 
 
 Saturday, 14th. — A violent east wind forced us to take shelter 
 in a bay, not many miles from the Narrows. Verily, this is a 
 vexatious kind of traveiliiig I I am truly glad it is over. The 
 steamer remained m this harbour, weather-bound, till early on 
 
4S 
 
 H^tZT^^^A^' '"^'"J 9"' ^"i^ moderating, we proceeded to 
 Holland 8 Landing, and from thence by the stage to Toronto, 
 which we reached late on Sunday night. ' 
 
 Monday i6th.-Stayed at Toronto, made some calls, saw the 
 
 h^^tV\\r^''''\^''^^'^'' *h, if completed, woull 
 be the finest thmg m America of its kind. But where are 
 
 LingT ^""^'' '^' ''''"^'''^ ^^P^"«^ ^'^S 1300^1 
 
 Rowed on the lake, which was now perfectly tranquil, and 
 glittered most invitingly in the sun. ^ 
 
 lak^'in^^JL ?r!'^> i7th.-Proceeded from Toronto across the 
 lake, m the Transit steamer, to Niagara. Captain Richardson 
 very obligingly gave me the means of drawing up water from a 
 
 tt f^'T^-^'"' ^''^''^' ('^' ^^^^^"^^ dejth^not ^.ceedbg 
 eighty), by the instrument of my invention. ^ 
 
 Ihe water had a mawkish taste : its specific gravity diflfered 
 h tk from that of d stilled water, it, howiver, gL indicat ons 
 of chlonne sulphuric acid, and lime, so that ittas not so pure 
 as the surface-water seemed to be. The diflference, however 
 was very shght, for sixteen ounces left only 0.7 of a arlL of 
 solid residuum, whilst as is stated aboVe,the^ame quantity 
 
 nf Td Ll -''"^u r!" ^PP'^"" '="^''^"* ^^ Canada, that the bottom 
 ot the lake is salt like the sea 
 
 o'cbck^wh.?."''"^^''^?' ^^ '^'' "^'^ N^^^^^^' «bout one 
 clock vvhere we found a stage to convey us to the Falls and 
 reached them in the afternoon ' 
 
 seeSe Fi!i.'^/^-~'^'. 7?'^'^ ^PP^^""-^ unfavourable for 
 us to^Rnffn^n t' I P"°f ^^^d by the stage which was to convey 
 us to Buffalo, but contrary to the assurances of the agent it 
 
 w^r ^"% T *¥ ^^"^^^ ^^^^^ '^' ferry stands, S'we 
 were compelled to oleep at a poor inn, kept by Dutch peonle 
 which was not over clean. ' i' ') '■'^^^n people, 
 
 hnH'^lu ^^^ \^^T^".^' *b^* ^" *h^« bolder district, which bar- 
 to Tok shanf 1'"^' 'T '''^'' ^^""i^J^' '' ^«"^d be necessary 
 Ln carrld^n A ""^ ^"^^'^' ' T f ?>^ Portmanteaus having 
 ferrv ?W 1 ^ "" Passenger, who had fixed to cross over thi 
 terry that same evemng; and as he had before stated that he 
 possessed no luggage of his own, the capture could not have 
 vSrTnd'otn • ' ^.^^P/---ly f-"d ?he party in Te st g 
 
 Tnrnnfrn 'vu^' {'^ ^'^ " jO^ng iingiish shopKceper irora 
 
 oronto. 1 he driver ran after the culprit and overtook him, in 
 tune to recover my property, before he had passed the fronTi;r 
 
 
 ^■ 
 
 ■« :■ i 
 
 *ii- 
 
 ■ i!8 
 
 If 
 
44 
 
 Thursday, 19th. — This morning, I crossed over to Black Rock 
 Village, and thence by the rail-road to Buffalo, where I took up 
 my quarters in one of the finest inns I have seen in my travels, 
 viz. The American Hotel. Captain Hall is quitewrong in asserting 
 that private sitting-rooms are unattainable in America. Here, 
 at least, were several, most handsomely fitted up ; and meals 
 might be had in private, by paying an extra price. Buffalo is 
 itself a cheerful, prosperous looking place, with several churches 
 of a better style than I have seen in general.* The main street 
 is wider than the Broadway at New York, has broad and excel- 
 lent pavements on both sides, and consists, for the most part, 
 of substantial brick houses. It is nearly a mile in length, ex- 
 tending down to the water, where are to be seen, at all hours, 
 steam-packets to Detroit, Michigan, &c. The one which I ob- 
 served on the point of starting, a large vessel, was literally 
 crowded with passengers; it would seem diflScult for one half of 
 them, not merely to have sleeping berths, but even space in the 
 cabin to lie down. The city lies at the mouth of Lake Erie, just 
 where it begins to discharge its waters by the Niagara River 
 into Lake Ontario. A lighthouse is placed on a sort of break- 
 water, which commands a view of the lake. Its shores are flat 
 on the side of the States, but more diversified on that of 
 Canada. The neighbourhood of Buffalo, indeed, if I may judge 
 from my visit to the settlement of the Seneca Indians, five miles 
 off, appears flat and uninteresting; and the roads, at this season, 
 are execrable. Buffalo contains some handsome private dwell- 
 ing-houses, an Exchange, and a neat Theatre, but for the acting 
 in the latter I can say but little. 
 
 Friday morning, I returned to the Falls, and remained there 
 till the Monday following; during which time I examined a 
 mineral spring, two miles below the cataract, which smells of 
 sulphuretted hydrogen, but affords only a slight trace of that 
 ingredient. A pint contains only about six grains of saline 
 matter, consisting of common salt, lime, and magnesia, upheld 
 by the sulphuric and muriatic acids. I also went to the so- 
 called Burning Spring, three miles above the falls, springing 
 out verv near the bed of the river. , There is here, also, a smell 
 of sulpharetted hydrogen, but the main portion of the gas is 
 carburetted hydrogen, as appears both from the kind of light it 
 gives when kindled, and likewise from the products of its com- 
 bustion, which are water and carbonic acid, as I ascertained, by 
 
 * It is remarkable, that the largest and handsomest part of the 
 city was erected with forged capital ; a great speculator, named Rath- 
 bone. hu\'iiiir ennp. on biiildiiio' on n ornDfl si-mIp. itnvirur his mmnlo 
 
 with bills which were regularly counterfeited as they became due. 
 
 1 r 
 
45 
 
 carrying some of the gas to the hotel, and examining it there 
 The water of the spnng is sensihly warm, but I neg "Sed o as-' 
 certam its temperature by the thermometer 
 
 But what shall I say of the Falls themselves, of which so 
 much has been written, but to which no descrip ion \Z evTr 
 yet done justice?* After three days' view of thm under al thel 
 various aspects, in wet weather and in dry-in briXt and in 
 gloomy, I am still so far unwearied at the^pectacle! that it s 
 with the greatest reluctance I have resolved to tear myself awav 
 from them, and proceed on my route ^ 
 
 Nevertheless, the first sight somewhat disappointed me- for 
 of an object so long known by report, each person bSore he 
 reaches the spot, conjures up in his mind some son of idea 
 which in certam respects must differ from the reali rand mav 
 therefore, lead h.m to imagine the latter as falling short 0^^^ 
 previous conceptions. ^ "'® 
 
 Thus I had imagined, that the fury of the waters after thev 
 had been launched over the catarac( would ha^ been more 
 terrific, and was surprised at seeing the ease, with which an in! 
 significant ferry-boat crossed the stream with n avery short dS- 
 tance below.f The noise also, produced by thewaterftdUtself I 
 had conceived would have been more stu/ning, and "a^^^ 
 
 person of solid weight and character talked down bv a noisv 
 upstar of yesterday, that I found the roar of this stupendous 
 natural phenomenon overpowered by the hissing of a SmotiVe 
 which was letting off- its steam at thi rail-road Station adjXn. 
 Ihe presence of these evidences of human ingenuitv was fn 
 other respects likewise very unpropitious to tKehnL which 
 he scene its 3 1 was calculated to inspire, and though no e^nemy^ 
 ra l-roads orfac ones in their proper places, I could have wTshed 
 all vestiges of the one and of the other banished fror^ rsnot 
 
 IndTlo^n?" "^°'' ^^ '^" ^^^" ^^^^-^ '^ -t" -^IstuXed 
 
 thpn"h ''^*'' f ^T^.' **'''^ ^'^^ prepossessions wore away, and I 
 tL T^^'J"'^ """'' impressed with the solemnity of the 
 sound, which the cataract produces in its desrenf thZ J v! J 
 expected to have been, by tie deaLning' u^l" f t^er for 
 which my imagination had prepared me^ In 8urve^dn^i ' too 
 under vanous aspects, I found new scenes of admTratbn' and 
 
 * For my geological remarks on the neiehbourhoo.1 nf th^ T?„n 
 «.he " Ske«:h .,r the «eol,«y of Nonk ATera,"tvhl I reS 
 
 
 i 
 
 m 
 
 
 i '• 
 
 V 1. 
 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
46 
 
 astonishment continually opening themselves upon me, of which 
 I had previously no conception, nor did the interest of the scene 
 appear to flag, when I turned to contemplate the phenomena pre- 
 sented in the course of the river, both above and below, which 
 may be regarded either as concomitants or as consequences of 
 the cataract itself. Writers, indeed, speak of the neighbour- 
 hood of the Falls as being tame and uninteresting, but they can- 
 not mean to extend this remark to any part of the River Niagara, 
 which, from its origin at Buffalo to its termination in Lake On- 
 tario, at Fort Niagara, is throughout the seat of the grandest and 
 most varied scenery. 
 
 To begin with the point at which it terminates in Lake 
 Ontario— What can be finer than the windings of the river till 
 we reach Queenstown, where the alluvial and comparatively flat 
 country ends, and the rocks that extend to Buffalo rise'sud* 
 denly on both sides of the river into a cUff three hundred and 
 seventy feet in height, which is thirty-eight feet higher than the 
 level of Lake Erie, and twenty-five higher than the level of the 
 land at Schlosser,at the summit of which, on the Canadian side, 
 stands the column erected to the memory of General Brock] 
 one hundred and twenty-six feet in height ? 
 
 From the commencement of these cliffs to the Falls, the river 
 is in general circumscribed within a comparatively narrow chan- 
 nel, and the velocity of its current is consequently much in- 
 creased. About three miles below the Falls, however, it begins 
 to foam and roar in a manner far exceeding what is witnessed 
 previously ; and here, in consequence of a bend in the river, 
 which deflects the current from its direct course, both to the 
 right and left, occurs the celebrated whirlpool, in which, objects 
 once committed to the stream are carried round and round 
 with extreme velocity for a long period, or sucked up by the 
 eddy in the centre and drawn down to a great depth. At this 
 point opens the first view of the Falls, and it is, perhaps, one of 
 the finest, in consequence of the two distinct cataracts, which 
 we observe when near, being blended in the distance into one, 
 and appearing hke an entire sheet of foam, shining and spark- 
 hng in the sun's light. 
 
 Arrived at the village, on the American side, opposite the 
 Falls, which goes by the unromantic name of Manchester, the 
 first object that attracts our notice, to the east of the village, is 
 one portion of the Niagara River, which is here divided into two 
 branches, by the intervention of Goat Island. The branch next 
 the village is seen rushing down with the greatest impetuosity, 
 to the point where it precipitates itself down the rocks, forming 
 the Western or American Fall, and the rapids here are the 
 gruii^-tvot auui must icrniiu 1 ijuvc ever seen, ine stream is 
 nevertheless, spanned by a wooden bridge, which enables us to 
 
47 
 
 reach a little island called Bath Island, large enough to contain 
 a paper-mill, and a k nd of toll-house, where a conMbution of 
 twenty-five cents is levied upon each visitor of the island be 
 vend. This second, or larger island, is connected with Ihe firsi 
 by a wooden bridge, upon crossing which, we find ourselves on 
 the piece of land which divides the waters of the American from 
 those of the greater or Horse-shoe Fall ^'"t;ncan trom 
 
 The island itself presents several most interesting obiects • 
 from one part of it we get a close view of the American FdV 
 and a still closer one, from a little island, which is reached by a 
 bridge composed of a couple of planks, thrown lengthways acroL 
 A staircase, inclosed m a kind of wooden tovver^nabl^s Ton to 
 
 thTtwo fX ^Her'^ ''"^ °' ''17^*^^' ^" ^^- interval "reen 
 the two talis. Here you may walk some way under either sheet 
 
 of water when the wind blows the spray in^he cont ar^^^^^^^ 
 tion to that in which you are ffoin? The ^\crhf /.e 1^ I 
 dashing over the cli/ above yfulThilsT'lni;^^^ 
 between them and the rock, is singularly subhme and terrific 
 seen by the hght of the sun transmitted through them. TW 
 aie perfectly sea-green, till having descended the p;eciDice 
 they become dissipated in foam. Perhaps, however the vW of 
 the two cataracts from a moderate distance is S more beaTiti 
 ul, especially when the sun shines sufficiently to prXce in a 
 their brilliancy, the hues of the rainbow, which it occastis in 
 the mist, arising from the spray of the descending waters 
 
 A tower erected by General'porter, on the vefy verge of the 
 Horse-shoe FaU, enables us to obtain a clear view both of this 
 magnificent object, and of the rapids leading to it. In short 
 the whole walk round the island is so preffSant with rnLr!./ 
 
 '^'% '' 'r:J^ ^^^^"^^y I -"^d bring'my^self tolav^ i^^^^^^^^^ 
 with^unabated interest that I paid it a leco'nd visit the day fot 
 
 Such are the most striking features on the American side 
 
 fieri YtT iiT\'" '^' ^'"^^^^" ''' -- more magn : 
 nfthp h1 [able Rock we may approach almost within reach 
 of the Horse-shoe Tail, and contemplate at our leisure the wa 
 ers of this, the more considerable portion of the Niagara Rirr" 
 beating over the face of the escarpment, and precipftated n ^ 
 depth of more than i6o feet. From the Clifton^Hotel from the 
 Museum and from the heights above, the views of both falls 
 are peculiarly grand and the whole effect is enhanced bvlhe 
 abrup ness and height of the banks on either side, and (It the 
 time I visited it) by the exceeding richness of he autu nnal 
 tntsexhibied by the trees that cover the face of either cliff- 
 It was, as if the fissure »t Sf Vi„«op.'„ -„:,._ 7 1^/ ^™r ^}\^- 
 „ „i , uivviii o iwLivs uuci been iihVri h«r 
 
 a clear deep stream, instead of a dark, muddy river and had^ 
 breadth greatly surpassing it, natural dimensb,is!;v,thwatm 
 
 ,V» 
 
 ■• ' < 
 
 ■ f ' 
 
 ''^.' ! 
 
 ! 1 
 
 - ¥^ ' 
 
 . 'Is! 
 
 I 1 
 
 i J 
 
 * M 
 
 m #: 
 
 ' .1^*' ■: m 
 
f:f 
 
 48 
 
 roaring and tumbling down their rocky bed, and then precipi- 
 tatmg themselves down a perpendicular cliff, i6o feet in height 
 lo ths we must add the volume of water, being the whole 
 otthat immense tribute, which the lakes, or rather seas, of Erie 
 Huron, and Superior, pour into the laj) of the Atlantic. 
 
 I must not forget my passing below the sheet of water at the 
 great J^all; it was an achievement which I am glad to have per- 
 formed, though I would not desire to repeat it; my breath having 
 been almost taken away by the violence of the wind, mixed with 
 the spray which it carries with it. Before I had quite reached 
 lermmatton Rock, my exhaustion was such that I was compelled 
 to desire the guide to return. I literally felt gasping, but I have 
 no doubt that this partly arose from the effort of running so 
 quickly through the cave. Were I to do it again, I would pro- 
 ceed more leisurely, in which case the convulsive breathing 
 which so annoyed me, would have been in great measure avoided 
 1 returned, of course, thoroughly drenched to the skin, but did 
 not feel cold, the exertion of fighting one's way through such a 
 place having produced a glow, and, if my breath would have 
 stood the trial, 1 might even have thought the experiment an 
 agreeable one. It was, however, a more serious exploit than I 
 had anticipated, and certainly one that should not be attempted 
 by persons of weak nerves or short breath. How Captain HaU 
 contrived to ascertain the height of his barometer in such a lo- 
 cality, IS to me a mystery. I could not even see, whilst I was 
 under the sheet of water, the objects most near me. 
 
 The album at the Register Office, as it is called, where csrti- 
 hcates of having reached Termination Rock are obtained, is 
 presented to every visitor to obtain his contribution to its con^ 
 tents, and of course contains much doggrel; the following served 
 as my contribution to the stock : which, bad as it is, being 
 nevertheless about an average sample, may console me for not 
 having taken notes of the remainder. 
 
 " I've been under the cataract, gone the ivhole hog, 
 Am come out alive, but as wet as a dog ; 
 And now that I've tasted my shower-hath, a sonnet 
 I'm asked to inscribe in the album upon it. 
 But my muse is confoundedly stiimp'd, for 'twould stagger a 
 Scott to find language and rhyme for Niagara, 
 Except that nought less than Strychnine or Mandragora 
 Could make me forget thee, thou wondrous Niagara !" 
 
 On Monday, October 23rd, I took my leave of the Falls, and 
 proceeded by the railroad to Lewiston. Thence I took my 
 place for Rochester by the stage, which was announced as 
 starting at four o'clock, but instead of this I was summon-d to 
 go at midnight. Such is the irregularity of conveyance in this 
 
49 
 
 country. Got to Lockport about sunrise, staid there till eight 
 and then proceeded by the mail to Rochester, along the E- 
 ;7t ^fltrld " --^--^' -d one of th, Lt in tl^s 
 The ridge over which the road passes is a slight elevation 
 like a lake shore shelving a little both ways, and appear to 
 have been caused by the Seating of the waters of LakeTntario 
 when they stood at a higher level than at present. ThouTh 
 the road was so good, yet we continued on it from break- 
 fas ti 1 eigh o'clock m the evening, making in that time only 
 sixty-two miles, owmg to the frequent stoppings, and the deZs 
 m changing horses. I can say but little in favoir of my coach 
 companions ; there was only one who had at all the appearance 
 of agentleman, and he was most uncommunicative, and could not 
 be drawn into conversation. The rest were low fellows, who, ^Wth 
 
 t ^TnS: of fl,'^""'?,' ^^ V^I>P"»g ^' '""'^y P^^^« ^e stopped 
 at, until one of them, at least, became stupidly dmnk. There was 
 
 not much in erchange of words, even amongst themselves Tud 
 of course little could be gleaned from such company WrJ^ssed 
 Uirough a few cheerful-looking villages, especially ClarksoTand 
 Parma, with neat churches, generally surmounted by a spire 
 IJe ground for some distance on either side of the road, was 
 for the most past cleared and enclosed. 
 
 I arrived at Rochester about eight o'clock, and took up mv 
 quarters at the Eagle Tavern, a respectable and well conducted 
 mn. J he next day the rain continued so incessantly, that I 
 was chiefly confined to the house. I contrived, Lwever 
 to get out as far as the Falls above the town, dmvn whTch 
 the celebrated Sam Patch took his leap. The river Genessee 
 here descends a precipice of rock, to the depth of about sixty 
 feet Niagara, however, spoils one for other waterfalls, and 
 the day was unpropitious for such sights. 
 
 Rochester Itself is a thriving town, with wide, straight streets 
 and good substantial houses. The Erie Canal here Crosses ?he 
 river over an aqueduct. The town was all intent on the dis! 
 covery of a murder, the first, it was said, ever committed in the 
 place. A gentlenian of the place was shot on Monday night, in 
 going from his office to his house, within the very boundaries 
 of the city. He had about him more than 5000 doUars, which 
 
 ZrtPi?^^'^ '^ ^ • ^^' ^^"^Pt^tion. His body was not disco- 
 vered till the morning. 
 
 , The rain still continuing, I thought it best to give un my de- 
 sign of visiting Canandagua and Geneva, and to proceed on mv 
 journey eastward by the canal. The canal boats are convenient 
 enough by day, and carry you at the rate of four and a Mf 
 miles an hour, but by night the accommodations are not of an 
 mvitmg character. Three tiers of shelves are suspended from 
 
 F 
 
 I 
 
 '!. 
 
 5. <. ( 1 I 
 
 U i 
 
I BW 
 
 /i 
 
 60 
 
 50 
 
 tluiXl^^tt"'^'^^ '^'ll' """°^^ ^^^'"^ «^°"t ^^^ feet in 
 length being allowed for each person. Consequently, as the 
 
 cabin for gentlemen is about twenty-four feet long, each sde 
 
 will afforj^ berths for eighteen persons; and thirty? ixpassen! 
 
 fedunTancv^oT'^ "' ^" *^'l"^'- ^«^-^-' wheVthe? s ; 
 redundancy of company, the centre of the room is also occu- 
 
 ?^w^lmits^^?fT"h ^? °^l'" ^^ «*«^«^ within these nar. 
 row limits. But, besides this is the ladies' cabin which 
 
 curtair r'^"' ^T 5 ^°\^" ™°^^' «^P^r«'ed from ours by a 
 curtain. Being placed ^vlth my head nearly touching that of 
 another man who was a great snorer, it was^ some dme before 
 I could get to rest, and the crying of a child in he ladW 
 chamber afterwards awakened me prematurely! 
 
 hr,!«r!;f "^'t! ^' ^" ^^' Y'^ «f ^" the inns, a public hair- 
 /.?/ A Z^""^^^'? suspended, but I have not y;t seen a public 
 lioth-brush. ITie latter, if indeed it exists anywhere S I 
 should hope, confined to the West. dnywnere, is, 1 
 
 wht?e7lefrth'.'t'^ on Thursday we reached Weedspond, 
 Where 1 left the boat, finding there a land conveyance to Au 
 burn. I reached that place in the evening, aftir mssinl ove^ 
 lentlnn ''"^' ^'^^'^ '' the American Hoteranlxcel' 
 
 Friday, Oct. 27th.~This morning I went over thp nrJp^r, * 
 Auburn which has long been celebfaterfor 1 moLTnXh 
 It IS conducted The system pursued is described Tmuch detaH 
 in he works of Tocqueville, Hall, and others. Its me^H consists 
 in he economy with which the whole is managerand T he 
 strict silence maintained among the prisoners. Its defects are 
 the arbitrary power of inflicting corporal punishments a S 
 
 ^ni nh?'"".'!!;^""''' ^"^ *h^ knowledge which each prisoTer 
 must obtain of the persons, at least, of his neighbours The cul 
 Tplf • ^f t"buted into gangs, which are set to work at cerLin 
 mechanical trades, forty-five generally in each room The tradS 
 which I saw going on were, cabinet-making. shoemakW 
 tailoring, saddle-making, carpet-making, stocS weS toof ' 
 makmg, comb-making, &c. Behind each worKp w2^ nat 
 row passage, separated by a partition of boards, Lwholes 
 and notches cut in it at intervals, so that the iZecLs in 
 
 fhe'paft 7t nri'/ ''*^? -7 infringement of "2%"^ on 
 tne part ot the prisoners, during their hours of labour Thp 
 sleeping-rooms are cells, each six feet by four, closed by a doo? 
 with an iron grating, and opening into a ffaUerv T^^Ll^ 5 
 
 Suat'^pt^^^^^^^^ ''^ ^^"^^ -d^^e doorrwV^h^ 
 enecmaiiy prevents any intercourse betwAPn the r-- 
 
 The allowance of food is rather liberal, but "the prison^rs^atli 
 
 mi 
 
lit six feet in 
 intly, as the 
 g, each side 
 '-six passen- 
 n there is a 
 8 also occu- 
 1 these nar- 
 abin, which 
 1 ours by a 
 ling that of 
 time before 
 I the ladies' 
 
 public hair- 
 een a pubhc 
 Inhere, is, I 
 
 tVeedspond, 
 mce to Au- 
 assing over 
 — an excel- 
 
 B prison at 
 ie in which 
 nuch detail 
 rit consists 
 and in the 
 defects are, 
 Its allowed 
 Jh prisoner 
 J. The cul- 
 Ic at certain 
 The trades 
 loemaking, 
 iving, tool- 
 was a nar- 
 ving holes 
 pectors, in 
 scipline on 
 our. The 
 by a door 
 There is a 
 oor, which 
 
 '■layjiiSlS. 
 
 ners eat it 
 
 51 
 
 prison, and seemed to be^retyteXlS^n' "f^'' '•■» 
 sitting in each shop, whose office w^ftn :. '"sP^P'or was 
 
 ment of rules. Th'e wor^Vt Lrout VolTact"Ld"l"h^" 
 seldom seen more eleo-ant anp^imo^ c K ^^^^f^^ch and 1 have 
 
 exhibited in a shop affibu'^-n TuT^fd ff '"t^ "■^" """ 
 carpets and r„,s Lde tto"::;er7aCgo raLd'YaTtold 'Se' 
 receipts more than cover the eximxi'^P^ nffh^ • t *^® 
 
 pect indeed, that the profits oPtCLLu P"'"""' ^ '"'" 
 looked after than the mraf tp ovemem ^^^^ ""' ^'"'^ 
 
 each cell, however is a f^ihlp .«!? " ., prisoners. In 
 the chapiainTs^'prct^d to t^^^^^ ^^ \-t%and 
 
 on religious subjects. ^^^^^erse at tunes with each culprit 
 
 hav^Lr ftttt-iisir/^^^rh^otrai 
 
 speak a degree of opulence ij fhe ndXurho„d T^''' '''■ 
 also several handsome churches, on? for each „f Ae '.»? 
 ing persuasions. ^^^"- ®^ *"^ l^ad- 
 
 Having returned to Weedspond, I proceeded in fV, 
 boat to .Syracuse, where I spent the night *^' '^"^^■ 
 
 Saturday, Oct. 28th.— This mornino- T «,oii j 
 village of gaUna, to see the extensTve salt wnll ^"^'^ *° *^« 
 The salt water is obtained from w [s sunk in^?^^^^^^^^ '"f ?"^- 
 pumped up through wooden pipes by Tean? oJ'lf ' '"\^' '^ 
 worked by water, to a tank placed at thJwi?; c^^l^^ ""^^^^^ 
 feet from the lower pr. ^ of the viUale oS ""^ ^^^"^ ^^^X 
 descending from this reservoir, conv'; the S^"?'" P^P^«' 
 works below, where it is to be boSed /own tiTTl *^ '^' 
 IS al owed to remain some time in tanks whip?*:,^"'"^^^'' 
 certain quantity of calcareous earSi. This done V^T' •'' 
 admitted into iron boilers, round which the II' .^^^^^^t^^'s 
 salt being removed by ladles Xn Lrn. f ^^^S^^^tes, the 
 and fresh water addeS from tbie to tf^. I ^ ''"'* '" ^^^ pan, 
 from evaporation. I find the s^cg^^^^^^^^^ '^' ''''''' 
 
 vious to Its being boiled 1x04? afJeXn n^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 tha?oVsl: te: = tidr^^ «^tVan 
 
 :^d~ ^J:^^^?^^^^'^ ^shallt^ 
 
 a -tofVnthou"e'"STan Ce'l^^^^^^^^^^ ^^ 
 
 near the town. When sufficiently concentrated ZT^ ^'^""^ 
 
 S::^;e;trry^^ ^-^^ ^^ ^^^S!t^:^r?^^ 
 
 ofS^nt^^^^Muc^-atS^^^ 
 
 F 2 
 
 i 
 
 i:' 
 
52 
 
 tirely destitute of saline matter. ITie manufacture of salt in this 
 neighbourhood is carried on to a very great extent, and has ren- 
 dered Syracuse, and the neighbounng villages, both populous 
 and thriyino;. The inn, Syracuse Hotel, is good, and the shops 
 in its neighbourhood indicate prosperity. 
 
 After dinner, I proceeded by the canal boat to Utica, slept in 
 this conveyance, with about fifty people, and reached my destina- 
 tion on Sunday morning. Bagge's Hotel here afforded me very 
 comfortable accommodations. 
 
 The town, or city, (as they prefer to call it,) is large, and if not 
 handsome, at least respectable and cheerful from the absence of 
 squalid poverty. The streets are wide, straight, and well-paved, 
 the churches numerous. I attended the Episcopal, and heard 
 a preacher considerably above par ; the congregation was de- 
 cent, and the church neat. 
 
 In the evening, I proceeded with Mr. Doubleday, a zealous 
 English entomologist, to Trenton Falls, and found very com- 
 fortable quarters at the inn adjoining. 
 
 Monday, Oct. 30th. — This morning we proceeded to the 
 Falls, which begin about half a mile above the inn. Here the 
 river, called West Canada Creek, is confined within a narrow 
 ravine, between cliffs about 150 feet in height, and tumbles suc- 
 cessively down several ledges of rock, which extend across its 
 course, forming, within the space of two miles, at least six falls, 
 the steepest of which is said to be forty-eight feet. The volume of 
 water is, of course, not comparable to that of Niagara, but the ac- 
 companiments of the falls are, I think, superior, or at least would 
 appear so, when the foliage of the overhanging woods is in its 
 full luxuriance. At the time I visited it, the period of the year, 
 if it diminished t lese, imparted, nevertheless, to the landscape 
 some new and di itinct beauties. The thermometer, in the night 
 preceding my visit, had sunk to 18" of Fahrenheit, so that the ice 
 was, in some places, an inch and a half thick. The sides of the 
 cliff^s were therefore studded with long, pendant icicles, hke sta- 
 lactites, caused by the freezing of the water which trickled down 
 the rock. These, sparkUng in the sun's rays, added greatly to 
 the beauty of the scene. The view^from a spot above the High 
 Falls is particularly striking. From this point you look down 
 upon the principal cataract, where the water, striking against the 
 rocky bottom, is returned to the air in foam. You see, likewise, 
 the wooden bridge tb^own across the waters below, and a wide 
 extent of the precipitous ridge which circumscribes tlie waters 
 on either side. 
 
 The remarkable circumstance in this river's course is the fre- 
 quent bendings which it has made in its rocky channel. You see 
 distinctly the markings which the water has left on the side of the 
 
ss 
 
 cliff, nearly to its summit, and its meanders are so frequent and 
 extensive that no one, I think, can donbt the whole oThe 1ft 
 m which the river now flows to have been formed by the slot 
 action of the stream. But what an immense perbd must have 
 
 fth1er:t:nf ^'^""^^ ^^"^^ ^^^ ^^ -^ iZl'Z 
 
 The seclusion of Trenton Falls constitutes one of their nrinci 
 pal attractions,^ you come upon them almost unexSd^v fo^ 
 the existence of the river is quite concealed by a thickTelt n^^ 
 wood on either side. Captain Hamilton is horr^ed by the ex 
 istence of a grog-shop on the spot from whence the (SZ«7f. it 
 are best seen; but the object^of the buSg Tn wh h^h 
 abomination ,s earned on is, at least, not obtrusively diulaved 
 and after a hot fatiguing walk up the rocks, a vTsSt mav ner 
 
 dllorrted. Ihe inn below is excellent, and kept by a verv re 
 spectable and intelligent man, the nephew, I believe of RLer" 
 Shearman, the son of the individual by th^t nmn vvho aSel 
 m drawing up the Declaration of Independence. ^ 
 
 rhe rock at Irenton is a black limestone, full of petrifaction. 
 There are various bivalves, orthoceratites, encr rSe^ and eve 
 ral very fine and uncommon species of tri^lobites, on^TbeUeve" 
 
 ttr Of S^''' m'^TJ"^ ^""^^*""^« t«" i»^hes from h ad to 
 tail. Of these, Mr. Moore, the innkeeper, sent a snedmen 
 valued at one hundred dollars, to Mr. Henr; Bright of Bil? 
 in return for some English minerals he had received fomhm 
 
 cut' SchTT f'"^!^ '" ^'^ ^™"*^"^' ^"^ -' ^^ do- 
 cility aetached. I saw also a specimen which looked verv 
 
 Ike a Colohte (See Buckland's Bridgwater), and a sinS 
 
 fossil which I beheve is called Conularia qaadrisulcata^''^^" 
 
 Returned in the evening to Utica, and on Tuesday morning 
 
 proceeded by railroad to Albany. The train proceeds Through 
 
 he picturesque and fertile valleV in which tL MoWk rh?er 
 has cut Its course The latter, at Little Falls, has had a rockv 
 barrier to contend with, which at some forni;r period blocked 
 up the valley, but an opening, not exceeding half a mile in 
 breadth having been mad. across it by naturefit has beTn im 
 proved by art, to allow the i^.rie Canal and the railroad to tmver^e 
 this mountain pass. The river Mohawk still descends a seres 
 rapids, or smaU falls. The rocks which rise on ei'her S 
 of the pass are of gneiss. "® 
 
 I slept at Albany on Tuesday night, and on Wednesdav 
 morning proceeded down the Hudson tS New York! in a steame? 
 rhe day was beautiful, being bright, and with on y tLt sS 
 
 Fa 
 
 w' ,, 
 
 « I 7 • 
 i kf * 
 
 'j I -M 
 
 : f ». 
 
 I 
 
 n 
 
 I, i. ., 
 
 .'»,■ 
 
 V\ 
 
 u* 
 
 'J 
 
 f I 
 
54 
 
 varied, and most abounding in the softer beauties of nature, 
 that at Westpoint most romantic. The trees were stripped of 
 their foUage, but the soil retained its verdure. Like most of the 
 nobler works of nature, this scenery improves on acciuaiutance. 
 We starte(l from Albany at nine, and reached New York at ten 
 at night, distance 146 miles, in thirteen hours. My servant, in 
 a steamer which started the evening before, arrived in ten 
 hours, and paid only half-a-doUar. Such was the com])etition. 
 
 Thursday, November 2nd.— This morning I proceeded from 
 New York, by the steamer to Newhaven, i)lying along the sound 
 which separates Long Island from the Coast of Connecticut. 
 About twelve o'clock we entered the Bay of Newhaven, and had 
 from it a pleasing view of that cheerful and thriving town, vviiich, 
 with its white houses and numerous spires, [jresents quite a gay 
 spectacle to the eye. The nearer view of the city, on landing, 
 confirmed these agreeable impressions. The houses are usually 
 very neat, and the better ones commonly stand detached one 
 from the other, with gardens encircling them. In its neat, 
 spruce, and tranquil appearance, Newhaven resembles very 
 much a Dutch town ; the streets are straight, regular, and well- 
 paved, having both their sides lined with avenues of elms, most 
 of which are fine trees. 
 
 The public Square is remarkable for its size, which exceeds 
 in that respect most of those in London, almost rivalling the 
 park at Brussels. About its centre is a range of churches, three 
 m number, two of them Presbyterian, one Episcopal— and just 
 behind, a Court House. One side of the square is occupied by 
 the Collegiate Buildings of Yale College, which are plain, and 
 undistmguishable, in point of architecture, from the private 
 houses around it. The appearance of the square is somewhat 
 disfigured, by the want of uniformity in the architecture of 
 the several public buildings, and their close proximity; the 
 Court House, for example, a heavy Gothic building, stands 
 just at the rear of one of the churches, which is a brick build- 
 ing, with sash windows, and a pointed spire. There is, also, 
 behind it a Methodist Church of brick, which looks like a barn 
 stuck out in the square— a most unsightly object. The material 
 too, of which the houses, in this and most other American towns, 
 are constructed, being wood, gives a character of flimsiness to 
 the whole, and this, together with their whiteness, makes their 
 cities look, at a distance, like a collection of pasteboard boxes. 
 
 I am glad, however, to find at Newhaven, many of the newer 
 mansions built of a more substantial material, namely, either of 
 brick, or of the red sandstone which is procured in the imme- 
 diate neighbourhood, 
 
 Yale College is a presbyterian estabUshment, but of course 
 
55 
 
 persons of all denominations are admissible. The students are 
 obliged to a tend chapel on week days, morning and eveninT 
 an( on Sunday to hear two entire duties. The latter hXer* 
 IS disnensed w.th if they belong to a different persuasbn Xv 
 take t-heir meals at a common table, where commons are nerve J 
 up to them and the poor students wait upon the reslfor wWch 
 they have their meals gratis, and may also earn smnetL? n 
 wards heir mamtenance bv ch(,pping vvood for fuel Two sude^?; 
 generally chum together. Lving distinct bed-rooms and acorn- 
 mon sitting-room. saw one which was small and very nakTd 
 of furniture, containing also but a scanty provision o7 books 
 lo my surprise, I found the students were not locked in ai 
 nifeh, the only security against their getting out beinrthat of 
 a tutor sleeping on each staircase. Their expences annuanv 
 vary from 250 to looo dollars. I should conceive, tha there was 
 less of that dissipation which is too i)ievalent in our EnXh 
 Universities; but the tutors complain, that the young men come 
 there very ignorant, and are frequently contented ?oT TZy 
 with a small modtcum of knowledge. ^Jearly one ha^f ^of th^se 
 that enter eave without obtaining a degree, the CoHege vviselv 
 {irefemng to reject many, than to lower the stanSf /Tr alf 
 Ihe greater part of the youths I saw were decently dressed and- 
 nice looking lads, not so gentlemanlike, indeed. in^theTr appear 
 ance, as the general run of English collegians bu siperTrTn 
 that respect to the inmates of the German Univers t"es The 
 average number does not exceed four hundred. A Professor 
 SiUiman's class on chemistry above a hundred atttnd/rl InS 
 ;S. T'T^ ""t ^ ,""^^> '^'^^ --« also abouf tW^^^^^^^^ 
 llche^an^^^^^^^ ^" ^'I'y «^*' '' ^^ true 'oHd? 
 
 Sh fhint T ^^ ^""""^^ ""^^ ' ^"t in some countries, I 
 should think, such a degree of contiguity might be prodiiPfh.1 
 
 of inconvenience, and tend to draw off the atteS on ofToth par 
 
 for a popular lecturer. He appears a thoroughly aSle man 
 excellent m his domestic relations, and of great urbanir Uhl 
 does not flatter, he is decidedly partial to he Engl sh a Jd v^ews 
 them almost in the light of countrymen Isfwll h?« IT 
 the entire senatus acalemicus, but wTthrown Zst neSlv iZ 
 contact with the very intelligent Greek Proferor Wholsev^i^t? 
 ^1^'^^!^^^^ ^^ith Profes^tn^lt 
 ^ - of indepen;^p?1-e;^:a^ --- ^HiHious. 
 
 I ill 
 
 
 k 
 
 1 ■ 
 
 
 ■t 
 
 ■. ft.' .■■: 
 
II (i 
 II 
 
 4 
 
 
 i 
 
 iii i 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 L 
 
 Jl 
 
 56 
 
 distinction and a strong Federalist, of a cast, such as would 
 almost entitle him to be considered an ultra-tory in England 
 He was eloquent on the dangers of the Reform Bill in England 
 and agreed entirely with an article, attributed, I think, to Mr' 
 U-oker, m the Quarterly Review on this subject. He spoke 
 oi beneral Jackson, as a man well calculated, from the decision 
 of his character to fight Indians, but as ignorant of political 
 science as the Indians themselves. He attributed to government 
 measures the present commercial crisis, and spoke rather de- 
 spondingly as to the prospects of his country. 
 
 iNewhaven possesses a very capital mineralogical cabinet, col- 
 ected originally by Colonel Gibbs, the specimens in which are 
 large and often splendid. I observed some meteoric stones of 
 great size. It contains, also, a small Gallery of Pictures, the best 
 of which are the original paintings of Colonel Tumbrull, who, 
 now in his eighty-second year, has retired to Newhaven to finish 
 his days m the family of Professor Silliman, who is married to 
 his niece. I he principal and most interesting, consist of a series 
 of historical paintings illustrating events in the American war, 
 from the Declaration of Independence to the Surrender of Lord 
 Cornwallis. The likenesses of persons distinguished, on both 
 sides, during that period, and subsequently to it, would be suffi- 
 cient alone to give an interest to these productions, which, like- 
 wise, shew talent, whenever the subject admitted of it. This 
 can scarcely be said to be the case in the celebrated picture re- 
 latmg to the Declaration of Independence," for what can be 
 
 Snt^n/flr^ ""^/"'^^'''''.^^"^ plain-looking men, seated 
 rank and file on benches, and doing nothing? Yet, the group 
 m the centre, of persons standing up, is an interesting one • 
 you see there the portrait of Jefferson, which I could swear to be 
 
 tj?vf^nJ'^^"''''7u^\^'''' penetrating countenance, coupled 
 with something o harshness, not to say, mahgnity in its expres- 
 sion agreeing well with the known character of the man. The 
 battle pieces are better, and the figure of Washington stands 
 
 pams with this, his favourite hero. 
 
 I likewise saw the Grave-yard, which is neat and formal. 
 There are too few trees and such as there are, not handsome, 
 being chiefly poplars, and these pollarded. It is a proof of the 
 good order maintained, that although a horror of disinterment 
 exists here, quite as strongly as in England, yet no fence higher 
 
 to protect the graves from the incursions of medical students. 
 Subjects, I understand, are supplied to them from New York. 
 
 On Monday mornino-. Novpmhpr <^»V> T ct^rt-A o* ^;,. „»-i--i. 
 tor Harttord, and proceeded over an excellent road through a 
 
l.v u CIULli 
 
 57 
 
 the rural population tho4 eSc^fof f g at„« SThS 
 
 boLtof ' " "" ">""■' '""^ *« ''Wch the latter has to 
 
 Washington College the S.^Lf ¥'™P^' seminary, called 
 and Dumb AsS ' 1 bud oTJZl" '"''""' *?■? *' »«»f 
 and was much'pyS ed wl XVl; twr'-,^ ™'' ■"'^ 'f '» 
 were able, not only to wriVe rofe„Ti ™\8«"!'"- class 
 
 Sent1„thirtrfat?fr«';rf^-r^^^»™P-4^^^^ 
 signs, who I was TnH Trf A They were then informed by 
 
 "ords. 1 hey were usually vprvinH'J—rM^-'--- " 
 
 Ts rnrLT""';!? '"^ ''^^' -'^°>-. ps;J:;^ra"'s?rikrgj;'i„'[:;'' 
 
 «stmg and sensible physiognomy. The other schooI-Ss "veTe 
 
 .'. » 
 
 '.# 
 
 1^ 
 
 
 ;l 
 
58 
 
 occupied by scholars of a less advanced grade. In the lowest 
 hey were learning words implying sensible object " bjcopS 
 
 pr seiT o^^'''"T^^"^^^^ '' ^ c^rawing'ofTwaf 
 
 and dumb T^""- ?'''r Z^ l^' *"*°^« ^«^« themselves deaf 
 and thSv . fL . r™^'? '^^'''^. ^'^f ^'' ^^«"t «»« hundred 
 vearlv t£vi / /fu ^^i!" ^°^'^ ^"^ instruction, loo dollars 
 
 S Vl narroAt^?^^ '^'"'^ '^PP^^'^"^ *^^ ''^^*- '^'^ey were 
 irom all parts of the Union, sent in many cases bv the State 
 
 Legislatures. Amongst them was an unfortunate^ obiect a 
 
 fnthf Z:T' f T' ^''^' ^""^^' ^"'^ blind. She had b^en 
 m the asylum twelve vears, and was now thirty years old 
 rhere was of course in Ker a vacant expression of countenance 
 but she apneared to know the value of money, whicrSput' 
 
 Lnd L^'"^; 1^' '"'t^ T^y ^"^« ^ P^^^« ^'^^^^ d stance Iff 
 and deposited m a box kept for the purpose of receiving it 
 
 dren 'X hi f '''V''^'''^. '^' P^^««" ^"^ dress of ?h L* 
 for "'837 '^ ""^y ^' '''" ^" ^b' ^^P«^t «f the Institution 
 
 '^"^"u^y,' ''^'*'''- 7th— Tins morning, at four o'clock I nro- 
 ceeded by the stage to xXorthampton, passing through a ve;y pleas- 
 ing portion ol ^'ew England, where the many neft and tirivfn; 
 cottages, and the number of houses, suited to persons of moderat? 
 fortunes, .hewed the absence of poverty from all, and thTposses! 
 sion of competency in very many. The village of Northampton 
 Je'rlZv'P'' '^' "^T ty-'^''^ ^ b^^ '''^- '^he houses arT^cat" 
 omP nffC ^""^^^^^t\' '^^'' ^" ^^' ^^°P« «f ^ hill ; and though 
 some of the more ambitious erections are absurd enough (espe- 
 
 l-^\^- \,i^' seminary, built in imitation of a Gothic abbey 
 
 Otherwise than pleasing. The number of churches in New Eng- 
 land IS remarkable ; i.ere, where the houses are said not to ex- 
 ceed three hundred and fifty, I counted ten Presbyterian one 
 Baptist, one M^hodist churci, and, I beheve, one olw W 
 thingmthese villages bespeaks order, strict morality, and atten- 
 dance to rehgious duties. ^ 
 
 The valley in which Northampton stands must be most beau- 
 titul m summer, and shews a more perfect degree of cultivation 
 as weU as a greater luxuriance of soil, than any other I have s en! 
 The forests are here limited to the mountains, of which two 
 ?n!f 'f L"""? P''^'"* themselves, Mount Holyoak, on the 
 east of the River Connecticut, Mount Tom on the west The 
 road on either side of the village passes through unenclosed 
 ^...^ meadowi, with fine trees scattered over it, singly, or in JSl 
 
 n s^alf nS ^"'- . ™Vr^^-^ '' ^^^ t^l^.lTteH!^; 
 
 i;TtiP?4'„¥_^'.^"^*^^^ °? .h«^"J .<^«"«cted into large masses, 
 
 8vv,mo i.c-.auai lu huh pan or tiie Umon, and reminds one, more 
 
ss are scat- 
 
 59 
 
 than any other circumstance could do of thp OIH n . 
 the eveninff I proceeded flir«„ u Vu ,, ^^" Country. In 
 Amherst, where^arStut oH^^V^' 7"'>^ *° '^^ ^''"^ge of 
 the Presbyterian communftv in ? ^'T• ^°™f ^^ ^^ "^"^bers of 
 near Boston, in conTequence o? Z^')? '? '^^'^ "^ Cambridge, 
 exclusively into the hS of U^f Jf '' ^^"^ ^""^" «^«^««t 
 large, ugly, staring, red brick W IdTn'?' i' r°"'f ^ «^ ^^^^^ 
 centre. ^ ' ^^ t)uildmgs, and of a chapel in the 
 
 On my arrivall called on Professor HJtnL. 
 to shew me the bird tracks L had dll, v^"^^ ' "^^^ proposed 
 mation which exists iS immediatl nl'^M '" V^' 'l"'^^*^"^ ^r- 
 were of various sizes, and tCwit' .^f ?f ^,^°^-, '^^^^ ^^^^'^^ 
 inches from one extremity tothr^^^ be less than sixteen 
 
 longer than the foot oTal ostrich l'' th'^"^ '^u'* "^ ^^" ^« 
 were nearly six feet aoai f Thf ^^^^'^ ^^^^^ the footsteps 
 
 the heel, extend7n/ro a cL JdVlb WT'"^ ^ ^^^^^ ^^^in^d 
 stance there were markings thlt' t^T^'t ^" «^« in- 
 ofthe skin connecZfthe talons T.""^''^^ corrugations 
 animal was web-footed In .a^T^ Tu"? *° P''^^^ ^^at the 
 the sandstone was oblLe as TtVp ' '^^ 'i^^P/^^'^on made in 
 from having to tread oTsoft mud T^"^ ^'^ *f ^ ^" ^^^^ing 
 pressions of footstens tLf L . ^^""^ "^^^^ ^^«o other im- 
 birds, possessing ^t^rmanvtoet'^?^^^ ha-.e been made by 
 alternately twisted to Xe Lht and S T '^u ''^^' ''''' 
 .e could make out several acStiYkedXt: S^ 
 
 not'efinTobf oveTthe'rcf''^^ circumstances which I 
 Hitchcock'! museum . after S""'"' ^P't^^^^d in Professor 
 opposite side of the river rZi'".^ "^.^^'t' ^' '^^^ ^^ to the 
 Amherst, where, on a sheTviSn ''?*' ^^"* *^" "^i^^s from 
 water, we observed numerol-^^^^^^^ 
 
 which, being partL"y effaced T^r^i."*^ ^^' '^"^^ kind, 
 nised as sudi/excent from l. • ^^""^^^ "«' ^ave recog- 
 specimens in his Sum As ItT.f r^^ ^be 
 
 upon the matter. TheTand.tnnl , ' '/°"^^ ^^^« »« doubt 
 rock, sphtting into tl'^ndlrctTaL^rs'" ^^^"^' "^^^^^-- 
 
 exl-SfaTr;'d^tffoLt:;T 
 
 near the river being CLnorsofW^^^ *^^ ^^«l"^ns 
 
 pear. These form a sort of L-^- ^^^' *''^' ''^*^'"' ^P" 
 
 ^eer.e.eath rnott-;"?- rilfte^f StSS 
 
 ' fl" •% 
 
 1 
 
 <i 
 
60 
 
 !•'{ 
 
 
 !'! 
 
 ■I 
 
 in some places columnar likewise. The latter is generally indu- 
 rated, and sometimes near the junction is converted into quartz 
 rock. 
 
 This greenstone, which, Professor Hitchcock says, may be 
 traced near Newhaven, is seen at the contiguous mountain, 
 Holyoke, interposed between two beds of sandstone. The 
 lower bed is observed at the level of the river, a little above 
 which the greenstone appears, and from thence continues to the 
 summit of Mount Holyoke. At the back of this mountain, 
 however, another bed of sandstone seems to rest upon it, though 
 this latter rises only to a slight elevation. Just about one third 
 of the v-vay up Mount Holyoke, the greenstone is found in dis- 
 tinct columns, about ten feet in height, and of great regularity. 
 Owing to the disintegration of the columns on the face of the 
 rock having taken place below more than above, the upper por- 
 tions of some of the columns project beyond the lower row, and 
 are suspended over the head of the observer, when standing 
 close to the vock. These projecting portions are convex, or len- 
 ticular, and are compared by Hitchcock to a number of iron 
 kettles hanging from the rock ; they exhibit, likewise, a number 
 of cracks in all imaginable directions, as if, instead of being 
 each an entire column, they had been severally made up of a 
 cluster of minor ones, confusedly packed together. And such I 
 beheve to be the true theory, though the Professor, in p. 400, 
 of his work, explains this latter circumstance differently. I 
 observed something similar at Castello d'Aci, near Catania. 
 
 From this point we ascended Mount Holyoke, and enjoyed 
 from its summit one of the most extensive prospects I ever re- 
 collect seeing spread before me. The windings of the beautiful 
 River Connecticut — the fine meadow land on its banks — the 
 numerous and thriving villages scattered over the country on 
 either side — the distant hills of New Hampshire on the one side, 
 of Hartford on the other — an horizon embracing an area, I am 
 told, of i6cvmiles — all united to give an interest to the scene. 
 The day, though cold, was remarkably clear and bright. 
 
 We returned to Amherst about sunset, after passing through 
 the village of Hadley, where Goffe ^nd Whalley, King Charles's 
 Judges, were for a long time secreted. It is said, that on one 
 occasion, when the people were desperately attacked by the 
 Indians, Goffe, whose person was known only to a few, rushed 
 in amongst the combatants, with streaming white hair, flowing 
 robes, and a drawn sword in his hand ; the cry was raised amongst 
 the whites, that the angel Gabriel had come to their assistance, 
 and hiti countrymen, cheered on by the thought, renewed the fight 
 with fresh vigour, and put the savages to the rout. So rigorous, 
 however, was at this time the search after the regicides made by 
 the emissaries of government, that Goffe, immediately after the 
 
 i=:l 'i 
 
61 
 
 battle was over, retreated into his former concealment and was 
 never agam seen at large*. In the evening I drank tea wUh the 
 Professor, and met several of the staff of the cXeamo^st 
 others President Humphrey, who appeared a vefy'aZeaSe 
 man Phe cakes and sugar were handed about in^hfS! 
 tive style by the Professor's children. ^ 
 
 I have not time to do more at present than refer to Professor 
 
 summit 01 Mount Holyoke from north to south (not varvinir in 
 
 tSco^rwi hthafof ^! ^ ""T'™ "^^'f)- -d e™S n 
 ineir course with that of certain markings or streaks, seen on the 
 
 fric bn 1 th Tf'" '' " '^T'^' '^'^"^ h« attributes to the 
 notion ot the heavy masses that passed over the summit + 
 
 On some parts of the ridge on the top of Ihe mouS thi 
 Professor hnds large bowlders of granite, and W masses 
 of sandstone are seen strewed on its sides to a coSr 
 bri'ugh?'' '^'^'^ ^'" ''''' '''^''"^'^^ '^^y must have been 
 
 c.7^Tt7' ^'^^^"^^er, 9th.-This morning I proceeded in the 
 stage to Worcester, and passed a more hilly and less nooulm,^ 
 district than before, in order to arrive at that plLe WeSed 
 It about two o'clock and after dinner I went oTer the Lunatic 
 Asylum, which stands on an eminence above the town and s 
 imposing, both from its size and situation. It coSs abou? 
 170 patients, distributed over twelve wards, the nmates of vvhich 
 take their meals together. Connected with a Srv in vh^h 
 
 '^7 r. ""'^ ^^i'^' ''' ^ ««"«« °^ celC fght Men feet ea h 
 intended as their dormitories. Each ealerv 1pi7, int^ 1 ' 
 
 space, surrounded by bars, but havtlS^ra f^^^^^^^^^ 
 to air, m which the patients can walk in fine weather ThTs is 
 pr ferred tc yards for exercise, but I should think it a bad ub 
 fe^lS^''' ''''''' ^^^P^^^^"^^ ''' ''^^- out inlo'the fields 
 
 at Vor"eir^'l/cont.T' 1k^' Antiquarian Society located 
 di Worcester, it contains a hbrary of 13,000 volumes chipflv 
 on Amencan history, biography, and antiquities TTe'SoS 
 has pub hshed two volumes of Transactions, which con a i 
 some mterestmg and learned papers, especi^ whh respS 
 
 * See Miss Martineau's" Society in America," vol. i. p. 268. 
 terestVrom ";*'"^^'^"«"5 «^ Professor Hitchcock's derive additional in- 
 
 Zontz t'/AgaLr" "^^"""^ ^^"'"^> ^^^^^^ ^-^ ^- -- 
 
 if> i 
 
 ' s 
 
 {*' 
 
 
 !; 
 
li 
 
 62 
 
 to those curious mounds of earth which exist in the Western 
 btates; and, likewise, with regard to the languages of the 
 
 Worcester is a clean, neat place, of about 7000 inhabitants, 
 much resembhng m appeaiance the other New England towns! 
 Ihe inn, Worcester House, is respectable, and is the first place 
 of public entertainment I have seen, belonging to the higher class 
 ot hotels, which proclaims itself a " Temperance House." 
 
 Friday, November loth.— This morning I proceeded by the 
 railroad to Boston, and reached that city in three hours the 
 distance being forty-two mUes. I lodged there at the Tremont 
 House, a splendid estabUshment of the kind; the dinners more 
 luxurious than I have met with anywhere else in America, and 
 consequently not dispatched at the same railv/ay pace : the bed- 
 rooms and private sitting-rooms also comfortable. 
 
 In the evening went to Faineuil Hall, to hear Daniel Web- 
 ster, and the other Whig orators, who had come to harangue 
 the good people of Boston, hold forth on the state of the coun- 
 try. 1 he Hall was crowded. 
 
 Mr. Webster opened the business of the meeting, but spoke 
 but little. His action, however, struck me as rather ungraceful 
 though his countenance, and particularly his eye, is imposinff' 
 He has a powerful voice, and what he said was at least in good 
 taste, and delivered in a manly, unpretending way. 
 
 Mr. Bell of Tennessee followed, and began his discourse with 
 such fulsome compliments, to the patriotism of Boston, the ex- 
 cellence of Its government, the superiority of the United States 
 to all other countries in arts, as well as in industry, intelligence 
 and virtue, that an English audience so flattered would have 
 been sickened; but the applause which followed, shewed that 
 the Bostonians have a capacious swallow, and are o/m«o»« rather 
 thm epicures with respect to this kind of food. 
 
 His best hit was an appeal to the audience, as to whether the 
 Orovernnient had or had not forfeited their confidence: and upon 
 the cry from all parts of the Hall that it had—" This " said 
 he, « is not the first time that the voice which issued from this 
 Hall has vibrated through the land— it sounded heretofore the 
 knell of a foreign despotism, and I trust it will now do the same 
 to a domestic one." The above allusion to the meetings held in 
 this Hall at the commencement of the struggle for independence. 
 was happv and well timed ; but here the orator should have stop- 
 ped, for, by detaining us for half-an-hour longer, with the samu 
 topics which he had before dilated upon, he spoiled the eflfect 
 ot the whole, and would have wearied out a less patient audience. 
 10 believe him, the corruption nractised hv Gptip^-^i To«i,o«., 
 and his successor, had spread like a leprosy over the nation, and 
 
 1 
 
68 
 
 ters of the enemy, the very State in which General J^ST 
 fiides his accession was hailed as a happy augury '" 
 
 A deputy, from Kentucky, followed, who spoke in a straight 
 forward manner, and put home-truths in a^stronrand d ar" 
 y^^- uS'' coHeague, from the same State, clipped « the kin^'I 
 Enghsh- considerable, but did not detain usTon^ Ti /, 
 lowed Mr. Hoffman, of New York, wt passes, tun^^^^^^^^^^^ 
 for a fine orator, but to my taste is far from an impressive one ' 
 he IS too flowerv, too studied, too ambitious wTaTfLdti^ 
 comparison of tlie victory gained over the loclZos aFNew 
 York to the batt e of Marathon, was in t] • wor't stvle oT 
 schoolboy declamation. Nevertheless, it seemed to please vastlv 
 and, judging from what I could o^-v^-- tTjJT.f^ ! ^j 
 much higher in the estimation of the'^ullence h^ th" f °'i^ 
 diction of Mr Webster. The meeting, larg '4 it was w^n? 
 
 Saturday, November iith.-Called on the celebrated Dr 
 Sr„ri'u,Ta fek ?„ ™ ^' some interesting contSn. He 
 
 suavity of temper. After^arLltrot^^'b^rK 
 friend and former feUow student. Dr. Webster, Ae Pro Wo^f 
 Chemistry and made some other calls. Drank tea with Mr 
 JoMthan Philhps, a gentleman, who, after fiCK vSous ««£ 
 
 ^rflKtelfSsTvttte^^^^ 
 
 fS, LtS^utlS^TShfe^''* advant^a^e^.^:;* 
 
 Sunday. — In the morning, went to hear Dr riian«,'r,„. it- 
 sermon was on the death § a Dr. Wor/esTer an SV ^? 
 educated man, who, from a shoemaiceVb fm^^'^i^^^^^^ 
 Unitarian sect, and was distinguished as The f3er of the 
 Peace Society. In Hstenmg to a man of Dr Channin?s repu 
 taUon, we are naturally led to think rather of the SSrVemi" 
 nence of the man, than of the pecuhar tenets of the preacher in 
 |.m the character of the Unitarian minister irmer/ed tfthat of 
 the eloquent writer, and the vindicator of th^ln^tT^lf. 
 ui uumamty; and if 1 may judge bv what I havp'Tpo^^'?"" 
 hm. to-day. and by the few'pUdsLmons oft^coS^^oslS 
 
 
 f i, 
 
 iff 
 
 G2 
 
 I 
 
 M m 
 
I ■* I 
 
 64 
 
 which I had perused before, I should conceive, that one miaU 
 
 setting forth some great general truth, and aftemards iU^^^^^^^^^^ 
 ing It by reference to the case immediately before him S. 
 he began by stating, that the essential chaLcStic Tf Chrfr 
 
 aversion to war. These rLarksT^Hfr^. ^' -^ ^^"* *^ 
 
 virtue.-how useful it vvas°Lrco„dLf„f .I'&t C' -f '^' 
 
 Monday.— Witnessed the mode of poUinff at SfatP T7inn*-« 
 a^d r^r fP^'-^-^ -titled to votei3;LfarerS^^^^^^^ 
 and each voter puts mto a common reservoir a list coSw f iJ 
 n^es of the candidates he supports. These are%nerZ^he 
 same as have been agreed upon by the party to^fwch he t 
 longs, and which are printed on a list he receives nf tL ^i 
 
 Dmed at Mr. Greene's the Botanist; he is first cousin ta 
 Lord Lyndhurst and a man of very pleasing address Mr« 
 Greene, also, who is daughter to President Q^uincy ap^^^^^^^ 
 charming woman. Met there Mr. Jonathan PhilU i)r WpI. 
 ster, Mr. Quincy, Mr. Sayres, Dr. BigeloCand otCrs S." 
 was very htte to distinguish this from^a pleasant En,l sk dbner 
 party, except, perhaps, a greater profusion of dishes^She .Sof 
 
65 
 
 ^ur^^i^X'T^r ^^ ''' ^-^« ^-- the ..^ table 
 
 buKfi^ of snow co..eneed, 
 
 LpweU. The badness of the weafLr ""^ '"?"*^°" "^ visiting 
 shghtest idea of the counti^Tr .f ! P^'^^^nted my forming thf 
 Factory, one for Car^ 7nd th^e &'• ^V""^ Cotton 
 cesses for carding, spiLngwea^'„J^,'^^^^^^ Shop The pro- 
 are, probably, much the saSe aTb f-'ntl ^^i"^ *^ ""^t^"^' 
 of the operatives seems supSLr Thf ^^"^* ''"' *^^ condition 
 the cotton factory are feZles wh? P'"'''"'. "^^^^ employed in 
 and lodging, ablaut one ditn/rr^^^^ ^'''^'' their board 
 equivalent to nearly twelve sWJlin^?, i / ^ r^^^' the whole 
 most part, dressecf verrneatl^S^^^^^ They are, for the 
 
 hair nicely combed, some of them w '^^'' l"^ ^^^h their 
 years of age, and possessing conslr^h "''''' '^"" ^^^^nt^^" 
 Heir conduct is said to be s^o correct ?W P'''^""^ attractions, 
 sistmg of more than two thousand npr. '"^ ^ community con- 
 recorded to have taken place Anvfl« f ^'^^ ^ faux pas is 
 indeed, would be followed bv inevif^lS '"' ^'f^-'^ of morality, 
 master were disposed to pass^ver tfe 'ff^^^^^^^ ^'' '^ t^e 
 vould reftise to work untiUheir fr^'^L^^^^^ 
 the machinery, I believe, is mTde fn tl ^l^^^n^issed. AH 
 
 struction caused hy the snow. '""^^ ""^'"^^ *« the ob- 
 
 so^tt^^eSTot^^^ after making 
 
 nei:m, and read three reviews o^ mL "m "^ '""'^ ^^^ Athe? 
 America, viz., in the North TmeriofnP ^^^^ineau's work on 
 American Quarterly, PhiSnl^f "^ ^''l^''' ^ostonj in the 
 ner, Boston. Onlv the k,f Tf A^ ^"^ ^" the Christian EYami! 
 t^o former evincing ^^^^^^^^ b tternl^ • ' ^^ ^l^ ^^vourabfe'The 
 North American, however LsSbf ' "" '^'^ ^'"^^^^s. 'The 
 and shewed considerable Ivi^^^^^^ '^ ^ gentlemanlike style 
 orapparent contradictions wS^^^^^^ *«.^^ther the real 
 
 American Quarterly exposed the ]n^«T^ T"*"^"« ' whilst the 
 reviewer much mori tha^ft diH .17/"!^ """^^^^ ^^^^ngs of the 
 am no particular admfrer of nfss Mart''' "^.'^^ authoress. I 
 an American, I should 4d more to nl "S^ "** ''"^^y' ^^^« ' 
 
 ;i ■;■ 
 
 ;' i 
 
 ];,' 
 
 '■■ 'if! 
 
 'l' 
 
 '^'1'^ 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
66 
 
 as their due, and therefore with indifference, whatever is com- 
 phmentary. 
 
 I also went to dine at Mr. Otis', and met there 'one of the 
 most aristocratical families in Boston. The elder Mr. Otis is 
 a thorough English gentleman of the old school, and, in addition 
 to considerable talents, which he has displayed in public Ufe, 
 possesses great suavity of manners. II i -i predilections seem all 
 anti-democratical, yet, such is the cliaim of (^ioquence, that he 
 is said to have had great influence, even over the mob at Bos- 
 ton. This family are the most English I have seen — I wonder 
 whether the inhabitants of Grosvenor Square would detect any 
 Yankeeism— it would be affectation in me to pretend that 1 
 could. 
 
 The party was small, but there were more ladiet. than I had 
 seen on previous occasions. The dinner service was of plate, the 
 servants smart and active, and the whole establishment had as 
 little of a republicun character as could well be imagined. Went 
 in the evening to a Gentlemen's Club, consisting of twenty 
 members ; five of them, clergymen ; five, lawyers ; rive, physi- 
 cians ; and five, merchants who had enjoyed a liberal education. 
 There was little general conversacion, and none connected with 
 literature or science that is worth recording. 
 
 Thursday, i6th. — In the morning went with Dr. Jackson, one 
 of the principal physicians in Boston, over the General Hospital. 
 It contains only fifty beds — a small number for so large a city — 
 but we must recollect, the general diffusion of competency, and 
 that there is a House of Industry for the indigent poor. The 
 rooms wore every appearance of cleanliness and comfort, and 
 their inmates were almost all decent, respectable looking people. 
 There is one peculiar feature in this institution, namely, that 
 persons of easy circumstances sometimes take up th(Mr abode in 
 it, when their cases require medical or surgical aid. By paying 
 a higher sum, they are allowed a room to themselves, and other 
 indulgences. 
 
 After twelve o'clock went with Dr. Webster to Cambridge, 
 and saw the Library and Lecture Rooms of the University. The 
 Library certainly looks small at present — but the law books are 
 in another building, and the rest are much crowded together. A 
 new edifice is to be raised next spring, the plan of which is said 
 to be taken from that of Christ Church, Oxford. It has been 
 the growth of only sixty years, the original hbrary having been 
 burnt. After hearing the latter fact, I was surprised at their 
 carelessness in allowing the present room to be warmed by two 
 stoves, until reminded, that the cold of New England would 
 render it uninhabitable for five months in the year, without this 
 resource. , 
 
 I iiiiti 
 
er IS com- 
 
 3ne of the 
 /Ir. Otis is 
 in additiim 
 lublic life, 
 18 seem all 
 :e, that he 
 ,ob at Bos- 
 -I wonder 
 detect any 
 nd that 1 
 
 than I had 
 f plate, the 
 ent had as 
 led. Went 
 of twenty 
 ive, physi- 
 education, 
 ected with 
 
 ckson, one 
 [ Hospital. 
 
 ^8 a city — 
 tency, and 
 •oor. The 
 nfort, and 
 ng people, 
 mely, that 
 r abode in 
 By paying 
 and other 
 
 lambridge, 
 rsity. The 
 books are 
 )gether. A 
 ich is said 
 t has been 
 Lving been 
 id at their 
 led by two 
 ind would 
 tthout this 
 
 67 
 
 There is in the college one room containing a pretty good 
 
 S'S^. nir^^'il"'^ l""'^^^^f instrurSents^of pUics 
 Ihe Dining Hall was like that at Newhaven-the Stuclents' 
 Rooms rather superior; as good, indeed, or better, than the 
 average of those which Oxford undergraduates have, but each se? 
 designed for two persons. The College Buildings kre all of red 
 K'iir ^"^""^'•"r^"*^^' ^'^^«^* the one which con ains 
 lfnm!r« J^r^^^"/'^-' ''^''^ '' whitewashed, and has a row 
 of pillars m front. In its general effect it of course will not 
 bear any comparison with our own colleges, but it has one ad- 
 vantage over Newhaven. in being placed in the midst of a Tavvn. 
 Ihere is nothing to prevent the voung men from leaving their 
 rooms by day or nigfit, except tfiat a tutor lives on each^staS' 
 
 CuSc* 
 
 Sf^pl' ^tIIT '• ^^'' ''^^,'? ^"^ *h" h^«t «"d«^«d in the United 
 Mates lo the immortal honour of the Pilffrims who first peo- 
 p ed the shores of New England, it was founded, in the m^dst 
 
 theHfl^/^J'V"'f'^?^^'^"^S^^^^ t^" years after 
 
 the little flock had first landed at Salem. It has gone through 
 
 sundry vicissitudes, and passed successively into the handsTf 
 
 Z?tV''^'^''"r^'"°™^';^*^«"^' b"t '^'' ifnitarianism has be- 
 come the prevailing creed in Boston, that sect has predominated 
 
 "toTdT tW r^"'"'^ '^ ^T\!'^^'' ^' i«. however but 
 tair to add— that the governors of the College seem fully aware 
 
 of the impropriety, as well as the inexpediency, of impartinffto 
 a^Thinfo?"; "^f .they wish to be re'garded'as a natCSe! 
 anything of a sectarian character-that their present Head is 
 selected from the ranks of the laity-and that members of other 
 
 Zt^Tp "' ^-^ '''''^^}' '^' Ei^scopalian, are often placed oa 
 the list of Examiners or Visitors of the ColWe.* 
 
 Dined at Dr. Webster's, and met there, President Quincy 
 Mr. Appleton, tormerly Envoy at Stockholm, and other Euro I 
 
 Keview, Mr. Treadwell, a clever mechanic, Professor of Practi, 
 cal Geometry at the College; Mr. Pierce; Mr. Lovering &c 
 Mr. Jared Sparks Editor of the Life of Washington ; Mr" Long- 
 fellow, Author of Outremer, &c. Slept at Dr. Webster's. ^ 
 
 J'^^^l '7th.-This morning Dr. Webster took me over to 
 
 CamtidlT r''^T'\^^"^^ lake, at a short distance from 
 Cambridge. Mr. Tudor, the proprietor, first hit upon the plan 
 of sending ice to hot climates, and succeeded in sfipplyLg the 
 
 * A very elaborate and complete « History of Havard Universitv '• 
 wbA „ pnnted in a style that wo Jd do honou^r to our c£dj^ 
 
 ; *». 
 
 
 K ^il 
 
 
68 
 
 Southern cities, the West Indies, and at last even the East In- 
 dies, with ice obtained from this lake. The houses which re- 
 ceive the ice are of wood, with double boards, about six inches 
 apart, and having the intervening space filled with charcoal. 
 1 he floor is covered with snow and wood shavings mixed; the 
 ice is sawn into thick but regular blocks, which are packed 
 closely one upon the other; after which, water is poured in to 
 fill up the interstices, which freezing unites the whole into one 
 solid mass. The ice-house I examined, and it was only one of 
 many, must have been nearly eighty feet long, more than forty 
 wide, and forty high. 
 
 Went afterwards to the Cemetery, Mount Auburn, which is 
 certainly the most picturesque place of the kind I have ever 
 seen. It is less artificial than Pere la Chaise, at Paris— less stiff 
 and formal than that at Newhaven. The natural variety of 
 ground, and the remnant of the aboriginal forest still left stand- 
 ing, must make it a most delightful retreat in summer. Saw 
 there, Spurzheim's tomb, and several neat, but few handsome 
 monuments. Visited afterwards the house and conservatories 
 of a Mr. Cushing, a kind of Indian nabob, immensely rich, who 
 preserves the tastes and habits which he had acquired in the 
 East. He has three Chinese servants to wait upon him, and 
 gives enormous wages, so as to avoid, as much as possible, the 
 discomforts of American housekeeping. He breakfasts at ten, 
 and dines at eight, a most unusual thing in this country, is served 
 on plate, and astonishes the neighbours by his anti-repubUcan 
 magnificence. The conservatories are certainly very handsome, 
 though they do not contain many tropical productions consi- 
 dering their extant. His is the first vinery I have seen in Ame- 
 rica. The garden is stiflf, and in the Chinese style ; but the 
 house and grounds command a most beautiful view of Boston 
 and its vicinity. 
 
 On our return, Dr. Webster and myself dressed, and went 
 to dine at Mr. Quincy's, where I met, besides the family of 
 the Quincy's, and his son-in-law, and married daughter, Mr. 
 and Mrs. Greene, Professor Beck, Mr. Palfrey, Mr. Sparkes, 
 editor of the Life of Washington, &c. The party was very 
 agreeable, and the prosperity of Oxford was drank with much 
 cordiality and good feeling. 
 
 In the evening accompanied Dr. Webster and his family to 
 the Tremont Theatre, where we saw Miss Ellen Tree as Rosa- 
 lind in " As You Like It," and as Clara, in the Maid of Milan. 
 She acted admirably in both, but was not well supported ; yet I 
 think the general cast of actors was rather above that of the 
 Park Theatre in New York. The audience too, was much more 
 brilliant, better dressed, and with a fair nronortion of ladies. 
 The theatre is prettily decorated ; for the scenery much cannot 
 
69 
 
 be said. Theatricals probably do not me« win. i, 
 
 here, since, even wi.h'lhe attJ^actio"t^ rrl Wi^^^^^^^^^^ 
 upper boxes were untenanted. Observp,! n„ t^ ;; • ^' ' , 
 
 a. '"^ --»- -" »ppe-^o^.Se^:fc-•■,^ 
 schoTwh';ch'l^s-^;;^l^tSL^ot'"•^ :;,- " ^'^^^'^ 
 
 about eighty. Proreded afterwtds toZ V""" i ' '^''"« 
 
 Collection, which contains a little of XtWnl n .f f' 
 
 birds, msects shells, and fossil rem^s^He^r 1, . Cf '' 
 of rocks made bv Professor Hit^^I. i .J? ' 'lection 
 
 ket8 built durinrMr Qu^^^^^^^ 
 
 rf had x^bilteS^F^ti^t 
 
 States yet visited ' '" ""^ "">" P^^^ »f ""e 
 
 JaVs'oVStlT-nSa'n of gSrSX I^^T'T^S'y} 
 superior skill. Met there hfsreMve'Br (f'lT '""■/ 
 ? Mat ." DrSe™';^''^ of^"- Se^ an'd^o^^^^^^^^^^ 
 pLSl'Dr wS un I^T'T' '"•^"'" of *e great 
 L KirklWlJX'^iSw'^Ca^L^^^^ 
 
 ha et; rst'';Titm""''¥h:''='" ' r*,rSton. and 
 
 toareSSii^'-S^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 three ol, the sSck^TL" Dr^^Dock fl 'TerTZif'''^'/"^ 
 deep enough to float a ninety era vessel Thl 7 n' ?"/'' "* 
 
 M '1 
 
70 
 
 selves to literature and science, or of taste enough to respect 
 and appreciate such objects. There is, also, a large amount ol 
 wealth, and, consequently, there are mnny substantial houses, 
 handsomely furnished, and the scene of a great deal of hospi- 
 tality. ^ 
 
 Sunday, 19th.— Went in the morning to hear Dr. Wainwright, 
 at the Episcopal Church. He gave us a very good practical dis- 
 course, delivered in an impressive manner, but without any dis- 
 play of theological learning. Walked afterwards across the 
 bndge to Charlestown, where a Roman Catholic convent was 
 pulled to the ground by the fanaticism of the Bostonians (I am 
 glad to be assured not by the gentlemen of Boston). Such an 
 occurrence might have taken place in any country, but the mis- 
 fortune is, that in this no redress could be afterwards obtained. 
 Saw the monument now erecting on Bunker's Hill, in honour 
 of that battle ; it is at present only half completed, and conse- 
 quently looks ugly. Crossed a second bridge to Chelsea, where 
 I found a steamer, which took me to Boston, giving me on the 
 way a fine view of the Bay. Nothing could be more calm and 
 beautiful than its appearance in this" mild November weather. 
 Dined at the house of my fello\/-passenger, Mr. Motley, and 
 met a very pleasant family party. Discussed the Federal con- 
 stitution. Mr. Motley does not acknowledge the right of any 
 one state to separate itself from the Union ; but on this point 
 I find that doctors disagree: it is a question, indeed, of as 
 delicate a nature as the right of resistance in a monarchy— a 
 privilege not to be acknowledged until the emergency which 
 requires its exercise has arrived, and which is then best vin- 
 dicated by the success which has attended the experiment : 
 
 That treason never prospers— what's the reason ? 
 Why, when it prospers, none dare call it treason ! 
 
 Supped with Dr. Wainwright, who discussed with me very 
 candidly the diflferent condition of England and the United 
 States. 
 
 He admitted, without reserve, that the inhabitants of the latter 
 enjoyed much less freedom of speech and of action than those of 
 the former, and that aristocratical feelings were nowhere of ranker 
 growth than in the democratical soil of America; but he was 
 clear upon one point, that the descendant of the most distin- 
 guished, or of the most high-born person in the country, would 
 enjoy no advantage over the son of the most obscure or abject, if a 
 candidate for public offices. Indeed, he conceived, and I imagine 
 justly, that his chance would be less, from the very circum- 
 stance of his parentage. Nevertheless, there was, in his opinion, 
 one crowning merit in the United States, which might serve to 
 
71 
 
 ^^'e^l^^^^^^^^^^^ r^^^^at however 
 
 tude, as in the Old Sirv w?.' ^ T ^t""*^^^ ^^y solici- 
 cess in life, provld S^th^hl^^P''* to his children's sue 
 spectable. K aSilh . k^Ti^"^ abilities were re- 
 
 eSough prefer thT;esoi'r efof a' ion^ife^'f ""r^^^ 
 
 must admit the more substantial ni^ * 7~^ married man 
 
 less thickly peopled !-oirDrW-*'^''\''^ ^'' P^«^*i«« i" a 
 
 as to the prLpLs of t^eXifcop^"^^^^^^^^ 
 
 making progress even irBoSoT^tL i. ^'^ m America; it is 
 
 nanism: anditisremaJLhlptwl ^-^^ ^"^'"^""^ of Unita- 
 
 tions of this l-^rTetth^P^^^^^^ 
 
 the basis of the church service!^ ^^'"^ ^^^P^^^ ^^ 
 
 evidently untamed as vet bv nVilw' Z "^^^^ Pawnees, and 
 no covering but a sk nC^w v v,^.^'' ^^*^^"^ ^^d on 
 seated at table so far as tn ^ ' 't''^ f'^ threw off, when 
 part of their person -heir hZ'^ ^^7 ^"'* ^"^ *^^« "PPer 
 
 and various kiS of'fin;ry such a^^^W^'^^^^^^ ^'"'^'''^ 
 
 had received as presents Tb.ir f ^ ''' ™"?^*"' ^^^^^^ they 
 millon, and they h^adaUo^'ethfrrvI' ""''' P"'"*^^ ^^^ ^^r- 
 in general, finJirmr men .Stvf 7'^^/^' "'P'"^' They were, 
 which were fuHv Smos^d ."^ ^ ^'f ^. "^"«cular shoulders 
 American gornmenHo take'tbT ^' ''. '^' P^^^T ^^ ^he 
 cities of the UnbT hi Iw / ™ ?""^ *° ^^^^^ ^^e larger 
 tribes a knowleTge o? the 2^t'T/^ ^??«"g«V^e "atfve 
 second set that ha^v^sited B^ ?on Irt ?f ^"^ ^^^« ^« ^^e 
 
 hvas invited to meet them at Governor tt '"^""^"* 
 
 ing, but arrived iust as tb a v«,oV/ .1 ".^ ^'^^ ^^"^e even- 
 Thermometer this^day an^yLtX'6.^ 'tP"'"' "^ ^T^^^"^' 
 ful; atmosphere haz/, TunLt brnhL^ ' '^"^P^^^*"^^ delight- 
 
 inln. lolgTtf ifS^^^^^ that preced. 
 
 me to Nahant He had f flL ^'^' ^""^r volunteered to drive 
 in his gig ; and without a w^^'f'T^ t^"" ^"^^"^^" ^orse 
 the first tWelvemlesnone^h^^^^^^ the whip we accomplished 
 cheerful and clean ookino^v^ll.l^f t^'' ^'^^^^^ "« *« the 
 makers. After a ride of ?brl^ , ^ ^>'""' *""^"t^d by shoe- 
 
 we reached N^aLnt a wa^^^^^^^ "'°'' '^?"^ '^' ''^'^'^'^ 
 
 bathing in summer The rock E^^^ """'^ frequented for 
 merous greenstone' dvkes ^1 't? '' 7'"^*^' mtersected by nu- 
 
 inches i hTelZr^^::^^^:,X^ t' '' '^' 
 
 of which they often encloViP »nT:. .£, r ^ }■ ™''' Portions 
 
 ted of a brUToIiv"'!^:!™!!' the hne of junction are ren- 
 
 ,.. „ , „^„, ,j,c pie^ence or epidote. In 
 
 :* 
 
 t< II 
 
l-ii 
 
 Hi 
 
 72 
 
 other cases the crystals of hornblend and felspar seem larger 
 and more distinct than usual near the line of junction between 
 the syenite and the dyke. 
 
 Returning home by another route we saw at Saugus a large 
 mass of porphyry, including pieces of jasper. This Dr. C. 
 Jackson regards as a great dyke; it is about loo feet wide. 
 
 After dinner, was taken by Dr. W. Channing, a physician, 
 and brother of the celebrated preacher, to see the gaol. It is 
 on the Auburn plan ; differing, however, from it in a few re^ 
 spects. Thus, though the culprits, whilst in their workshops, 
 are not allowed to converse, there were no side passages through 
 which espionage could be carried on. The gallery leading into 
 the cells was not so well ventilated as at Auburn. Corporal 
 punishments were not inflicted oJf-hand,hat only after due sen- 
 tence had been passed, and when other penalties, such as short 
 allowance, and confinement during the day, had been tried in 
 vain. The chaphim, who conducted us around, seemed a sen- 
 sible and humane man. 
 
 Wednesday, 22nd.~niis was the first day that resembled 
 those we have in England during November — it was damp, 
 foggyj and greasy under foot; two or three times we had 
 showers: yet with all this the thermometer in my bedroom, 
 without a fire, kept up to 65°. 
 
 In the morning I went to see the Blind Asylum, which is 
 under the care and direction of Dr. Howe. There are about 
 sixty persons in it, many of whom were engaged in yarious 
 trades, such as making hair-rugs, and hearth'^rugs, spinning 
 yarn, sewing, making chair-cushions, door-mats, &c. Two 
 of the little girls read with nearly as much fluency, from a 
 book printed in relief, as a common person usually can do, and 
 that in French as well as in English. One also pointed out on 
 a map the situation of various towns in England, Ireland, and 
 Scotland. The maps were, of course, like the books, in raised 
 characters. Some, as might he expected, played well. There 
 was amongst them, as at Hartford, a girl blind, deaf, and dumb, 
 yet quick and intelligent. Br. Howe has all his life been intent 
 on philanthropic projects ; he formerly busied himself in the 
 cause of the Greeks, then in that of the Poles, lastly in im- 
 proving the condition of the blind, and this estabhshment is 
 a standing monument of his care and activity. 
 
 Thursday, 23rd.— This morning I went to Salem, having a 
 curiosity to see a town, which in former days was so famous for 
 witchcraft. The appearance of the place at present is by no 
 means in harmony with its pristine character. Like most New 
 England towns, it is an assemblage of neat houses, made up of 
 
73 
 
 materll for houses Tpriveseve',; those'S which Zl%'^ " 
 wereamonffst the first ^etflpH J " „ ^^^"^ ^^^^c*^' j'ke Salem, 
 
 ippare„t./perSyLren''o7th: iXSisTS* " 
 
 to drink tea 4h Dr ChaMk, """l '" ^"','?"' ^-^ ^"^^ 
 late President of H";;aMToS|e;.1? ]^rX£™^i["='S* 
 C hanning's conversation is good, but wt str kinT iX' ' 
 tainlynot met as yet ,vith Ve indt ralvtl ?;ma,kaK; 
 conversational Dovvers dnrino- mx, o* • a ^ remarKaoie lor 
 
 <vi.h whom I hCTeen tZwn^nt' ;^°,,tr Dr'-I^?/ *"' 
 perhaps the most agreeable in Ws ieportmLt Mr 0.^,1,!: 
 
 hrxSe^-'tfAt;.A^^^^ 
 
 »^^f=i-|:t?£S.^ 
 
 t Stformef '"fi^r.f'' 'fT^o-f' - caS/shrewd. fnd 
 a"rc:s:i.ha:n fSmUoU fT^'* T''' ^'^"""^ 
 was calculated, or dispolltMV:: /^iira\?rn\:i^ 
 a manner as to arrest the attention of the rest by Ws^bri£ 
 
 CTn'the OM r""" r «"'{^'' ■'"""<'»=J^ wTom'Lould men 
 Bostonian beauty. Waltzes were the order ofThe evenTn?. th. 
 
 Af^^^'^^^i .^4th.— A cold, but towards evening, a bright chv 
 
 ■l'K"4l 
 
 (I 
 
 ii.i 
 
 ft f 
 
 »•; !'1 
 
 i HI 
 
 j i 
 
 I !;.; 
 
74 
 
 cimen of art, I took a drive with Dr. Webster to view some of 
 the rocks in the immediate neighbourhood of Boston. 
 
 Going out by Charlestown and Bunker's Hill, and pursuing 
 the road which leads to Cambridge, we find the prevailing rock 
 to be clay slate. It is penetrated by frequent dykes of green* 
 stone, in general compact and uniform in texture, which rock 
 appeared also in one spot to constitute an overlying mass, and 
 in another to be interstratified with the slate ; the latter seeming 
 to lie both above and beneath it. In another quarry, I observed 
 that the clay-slate itself was so much altered as scarcely to be 
 recognizable, being converted into a kind of hornstone, and that 
 it is also tilted up to an high angle. In the midst of it lies 
 a bed of a material which much resembles trap. Its basis, 
 indeed, differs but little from this altered form of the slate, but 
 it contains dark crystals which look like hornblende. Inde- 
 pendently, however, of these intrusive masses of trap, occurs an 
 extensive formation of syenite, seen at Powder Hill and at other 
 places between Cambridge and Boston, which I suspect, how- 
 ever, to be protruded through the clay-slate, though at an earlier 
 epoch, and in larger masses. It consists of large grains of fel- 
 spar and hornblende, and from the presence of iron decomposes 
 readily into a dark coloured sand. It contains veins of prehnite, 
 and I believe, of other minerals, running through it, and I 
 suspect it must be a continuation of the syenite already noticed 
 at Nahant. 
 
 Sunday, November 26th. — Day fine and bright, but cold, 
 thermometer standing at 23* about twelve p. m. Heard Mr. 
 Clarke preach at the Episcopal Church ; he seems a young man 
 of a clear and masculine understanding, but his enunciation has 
 a nasal twang, as is the case with many Yankees. The Episcopa- 
 lians address themselves more to the reason than to the feelings. 
 I suspect there are no distinct classes of evangelical and high 
 church episcopal clergy, as with us ; the more enthusiastic pro- 
 bably drop off to the Methodist or Presbyterian persuasions, the 
 undervaluers of church authority'^ to the Independents.* 
 
 Monday, November 27. — The morning was fine and clear. 
 I proceeded by the rail-road as far as Providence, the capital of 
 Rhode Island, which we reached by about twelve o'clock. 
 During the few hours I spent in that city I paid a visit to 
 Brown University, where there is a small collection of rocks 
 and minerals, but nothing very remarkable in the building 
 
 * I find, however, that Bishop I\Iacilwain of Ohio, the most elo- 
 quent Episcopalian preacher in the United States, is considered to be- 
 lonff to the evaiisrelical class of derffvmen* 
 
7.5 
 
 or its contents. The CoUege is in the hands of the Baptists, 
 and the Principal, Dr. Wayland, is of that persuasion. He is a 
 f/" ? dIT^ hterary eminence, being the author of a work on 
 Moral Philosophy, which is in considerable repute. Providence 
 
 Tudin V *°^"' ^^^ ^^^^ "°^ P°®^®^^ ^"^ remarkable 
 
 After dinner I proceeded by the steamer to New York, and 
 arrived there the next morning by five o'clock, having performed 
 a voyage through Long Island Sound, calculated at two hundred 
 and twenty miles, m fourteen hours, averaging nearly sixteen 
 miles an hour. ° ° ^ 
 
 At New York I resumed, for a few days, my old quarters, 
 chiefly occupied m arranging and packing up the various coUec- 
 tions I had made. 
 
 On the evening of my arrival I went, by invitation, to a large 
 dinner given at that splendid hotel, the " Astor House," to the 
 leadmg members of the Whig party, and, I must say, that I 
 never sat down to an entertainment of that kind and magnitude 
 better served, or conducted on a more liberal scale. Here I 
 heard the several orators, of that side in politics, who were pre- 
 sent, successively hold forth, but was, I confess, but little pre- 
 possessed m their favor, finding them in general too diflfuse, too 
 long-wmded, and too laudatory of every thing American, to 
 accord with my taste. Blarney is the best term by which I can 
 express the style of eloquence which seemed to prevaU most ^ 
 amongst them. 
 
 T r^^T^ ®^^P* ^" *^® steam-boat but imperfectly the night before 
 .felt the more overcome by the succession of tedious harangues 
 which I WX8 compelled to Usten to; bat about two o'clock in 
 the mormng, Daniel Webster rose, and continued on his legs 
 till half-past three o'clock, during the whole of which time every 
 symptom of fatigue vanished, and I continued thorouffhly 
 wrapped up m the orator, and unconscious of the length of his 
 Qis c ours 6 • 
 
 Daniel Webster is remarkable for the sound general views 
 which he contrives to condense mthin a small compass, whilst 
 discussing points of local or temporary interest. He seems to 
 look beyond the present, and to expound maxims of poHcy 
 which are applicable to every state of society, as \vell as to that 
 to which they are immediately addressed. In general he is 
 cold and ummpassioned; but occasionally, as was the case 
 at the close of this evening's speech, he introduces touches of 
 pathos, which tell all the more from their contrast with the 
 severe and chastened tone of his general manner. 
 
 "Gentlemen," he said, in conclusion, "many of you have 
 been m foreign lands — but who, when he thought of his 
 country, did not thank God, that he wag born a fr 
 
 '4 
 IJ, 
 
 H2 
 
 
76 
 
 and was likely to die a free citizen, of these United States ? 
 Who, whether he sojourned in that great emporium of the com- 
 merce of the world, the City of London, or among the vine- 
 clad hills of France, or in the eternal city of the Romans, 
 although he had the grandeur of antiquity to bewilder him, 
 and the beauty of the present day to dazzle him, would not be 
 apt to exclaim — 
 
 " ' My visit oft, but never for my home!' 
 "Who, no matter where he is, when he finds the Atlantic 
 waves rolling between him and his own native land, does not 
 feel the throbbing impulse of — 
 
 " * I love thee still, my country ?* 
 
 " Who, if sickness overtakes him, or death meets him in his 
 path, does not turn his eyes homeward, and — 
 
 " ' Moriens, dulces reminiscitur Argos.' "* 
 
 is f' 
 
 * As is the case with most other great orators — Sheridan, for in- 
 stance — Daniel Webster's happiest hits are said to be the result of 
 long premeditation. An American friend of mine who was in the 
 Senate with him some years ago, repeated to me a sentence in one 
 of his speeches, which created a great sensation at the time it was 
 delivered, and which passed off as flowing naturally and directly from 
 the subject under discussion. 
 
 In allusion to some question or other in which the dictates of honour 
 and justice stood opposed to the course which expediency might suggest, 
 he remarked : — " On a matter of principle such as this our ancestors 
 went to war with a nation, to whose power for the purposes of military 
 conquest, Rome at the height of her dominion coidd not be compared — 
 
 a nation, which has studded the earth with her possessions whose 
 
 morning drum-beat, following the sun, and keeping pace with the 
 Lours, encircles the earth daily with one continuous and unbroken 
 strain of the martial airs of England." 
 
 After the debate was over, my informant went up to the orator, and 
 said to him, " Webster, your concluding sentence told capitally with 
 the house, but you must not pass it off on an old soldier like myself as 
 though it were struck off at a heat—pray let me into the secret of its 
 concoction." 
 
 ** Why," rephed Webster, " to tell you the candid tnith, the allu- 
 sion to the morning drum-beat of England first came into my head 
 during a visit to Quebec, when I chanced to attend the parade on Fort 
 Diamond, one fine morning at sunrise. It then occurred to me, that, 
 half-an-hour hence, the same beat of the drum would summon together 
 the soldiers of the same sovereign, at Jamaica ; that it would reecho 
 in about three hours and a half at the mouth of the Columbia River ; 
 that it would be heard in about seven hours time at New Zealand; in 
 about nine hours at Sydney; at Canton, in rather more than eleven 
 hours ; in Calcutta, in thirteen ; at the Mauritius, in fifteen ; at the 
 Cape of Good Hope, in less than seventeen ; at Corfu, in eighteen ; 
 
77 
 
 R Jl'n?5' December 5th -I proceeded by the steam-boat to 
 Bordentovvn, thence by rail-road to Ambov, and afterwards bv 
 another steamer up the Delaware to Philadelphia. ^ 
 
 I first took up my quarters at Head's Hotel, the "Mansion 
 House, which certamly deserves the reputation it enjoys, for 
 good hvmg and luxurious fare. Here there is no boltinff of 
 the food-no confusion at table-no getting up as soon as a 
 certain amount of solid provision has been thrown in— but the 
 presence, example, and appearance of the presiding host, all 
 promote conviviality. s ="-* «" 
 
 With this, however, my praise must end, for the empyreumatic 
 savor proceeding upwards from the kitchen into the bed-rooms, 
 did not, like that of the sacrifices prepared for the immortal 
 gods m Homer, prove grateful to my olfactory organs during 
 the morning, notwithstanding the consciousness I enjoyed 
 thatit was the prelude of good things to come; so that after 
 n? . 'fSF ^^' annoyance for two nights, I gladly availed myself 
 of a friend s recommendation to a boarding-house, kept by a 
 highly respectable Quaker lady, Mrs. AUabone, where I found 
 cleanliness and comfort. 
 
 Saturday, December 23rd.-Were I to note down the various 
 invitations of all kinds which I have received, during my three 
 r.n flf\'' Madelphia, I should present a m^os7amp e 
 idea of the hospitality, with which an Englishman, travelling, 
 like myself from motives of curiosity or liberal inquiry, is sufe 
 to meet in the great cities of America. 
 
 ♦i,^""' ^.^u' ^,^® Professor of Chemistry; Mr. Nicolas Biddle, 
 the great Banker,* and others of his family; Mr. Duponceau 
 he President of the Philosophical Society, and Mr. \^Zh^, 
 its Secretary; Dr. Elwin;t Mr. Camac; Mr. Lea, the Concho- 
 
 osased at one of the possessions or dependencies of Great Britain, than 
 It would be renewed at another. Since that time I have been wa tint for 
 
 Z.?T?T^ u ^'^^'^ "^y««^^«^ *^« ''^'^'^^^ t« which your nquSy 
 related but con d never, till this day, find a peg to hang it\ipon"' ^ 
 
 * Then m the height of his prosperity, ^d distinguished as the 
 
 great antagonist of OeneralJackson, on the "Bank Question" He 
 
 appeared a very remarkable man, with that quiet suavity 0/ mknners! 
 
 which It js pleasing to observe in one who has gone through 5 
 
 many tnala and met with such determined opposition. His Zlnchl 
 
 talents I cannot pretend to estimate, but that he is a man of reS 
 
 taste and hterary attainments, is sufficiently evinced, by an Address 
 
 whiPh 1?"'"^''''*'^",' ^""""'"^^ ^^^«^« t^^ "^"'""^ of 'Nassau College 
 which he presented to nie. '^""t'ge, 
 
 Bnti ^' ^^' ^IY^^\ I '"et his relation by marriage, Mrs. Pierce 
 Butler, now resident in the neighbourliood of Philadelphia. She d^. 
 
 "en* 
 
 i- 
 
78 
 
 legist ;* and, above all, my old friend Mr. Nicklin, whose ge- 
 neral good feeling towards Englishmen was enhanced by a 
 regard to a member of the church of England, for which he en- 
 tertains a firnri attachment,t did all they could to render my stay 
 at Philadelphia as agreeable as possible, and contrived to make my 
 appearance at the table of the boarding-house really a matter of 
 very rare occurrence. 
 
 But it will be more interesting for future perusal, for me to note 
 doNvn my general impressions as to the city and its inhabitants. 
 In the first place, then, Philadelphia, for cleanliness and regula- 
 rity, assuredly bears away the i)alm from every city, either of 
 the Old or New Worid. I could not help wishing, as I rambled 
 over its methodically arranged streets, which may be traversed 
 on one's first arrival'with as much confidence of finding the right 
 direction as if one had always resided there, that glorious old 
 William Perm could come to life again, just to see the strides, 
 which the city, founded under his auspices, and regulated in ac- 
 ci-rdance to his principles, has made since he handed it over to 
 his successors. To be sure, he might at first be a little scandal- 
 coursed on the subject of Slavery with a freedom, which argued more 
 of her right principle than sound discretion. Though she has been 
 viewed as self-willed and capricious, she evinces in conversation a 
 power of language and high tone of moral feeling, that ought to make 
 one forget her foibles. 
 
 * Mr. Lea has, probably, the most complete cabinet of recent Ame- 
 rican shells, that belongs to any private individual. His collection of 
 unios is superb. He has also published a very beautiful volume, 
 with plates, on this genus, in the Transactions of the American Philo- 
 sophical Society, and made other valuable contributions to the same 
 branch of Natural History.. 
 
 t This worthy man, who, under the sobriquet of " Peregrine Prolix,'* 
 was the author of a facetious description of the Springs of Virginia, 
 and of the route by rail-road to Pittsburgh, and, liltewise, published 
 under his own name a sensible pamphlet on " International Copy- 
 right," paid a visit to Oxford in 1833, and was admitted an honorary 
 member of the Ashmolean Society. 
 
 He took an active part in advocating the States' rights principle 
 as asserted by the Southern States, and the abolition of restrictions on 
 trade, combining the greatest liberality in political matters, with strong 
 and decided views on church questions. I was sorry to receive, a few 
 months ago, (August, 1842), through a Philadelphia newspaper, an 
 account of his sudden death. The announcement was followed with 
 some well merited commendations of his activity and usefulness in all 
 matters of a benevolent character, and more especially in those more 
 immediately relating to the Episcopal Cliurch, of which he was so 
 zealous a communicant. He married the daughter of Bishop White, 
 known as one of the most distinguished prelates of the American 
 Church since the period of the Revoiution. 
 
79 
 
 ized at the splendour and luxury at present here and there dis- 
 played; but he would be reconciled, perhaps, by observing the 
 same general sobriety of demeanour, tEe same love of peace and 
 order, the same pervadmg principle of benevolence and brotherly 
 love, predommant, which fie had instilled into his people, anS 
 exemphfied m his own transactions with the Indians!* 
 Philade phia, to do it justice, is in many points of view a very 
 
 ZlKn / W "^ "^"^?' ""^ ^«^*^i"« ^ Wer amounts 
 wealth than r had imagined to exist anywhere out of England. 
 
 ; J nnf"®' equipages are not numerous, and those we see 
 are not m general gay and dashing enough to figure in the 
 streets of London with any eclat-nov are thlre many, I sispect 
 HlZt«T? .\*ruly English menage, with their motley estal 
 blishments of Irish and Coloured Domestics.f 
 But the houses of the better class are substantial and roomv • 
 
 £n/S^''T)f'' l'^'^'"^ ^P^^^«"«> the furniture soliHnd 
 handsome, though perhaps to an English eye somewhat scanty 
 It IS curious to observe how nearly they all appear to be on the 
 same plan the difference betwixt them consisting chiefly b he 
 greater or less size of the rooms. ^ ^ 
 
 There is almost always on the ground floor a suite of twn 
 apartments, opening b/folding doors one into the other the 
 first serving for a dining, the second for a drawing-room Were 
 
 vZLTfT"- "' '°"^"?^"' ""^ ^' «^"^h attended by ladTes, as Tn 
 England, the inconveniences of such an arrangement could nlJ? 
 
 hZrli!^ T^ creditable to the Philadelphians, that with no trials for 
 blasphemy hanging tn terrorem over their heads, no legislative means 
 of checkmg the expression of opinions, they yet keep To clerof tS 
 mischievous societies that abonnd in all the large cities of the Old WoridT 
 by which the foundations of religion are sapped rndoveriurnTdi 
 3t h'^if r^^""f \"^^^^ <=I"b existing in Philadelphia and it was 
 Tr^^^nVL^^t'^e^'"' ^"^°^' exclusively fre,uLtei by ^S 
 
 f. t ^^?/^, ^.^^ ^"l»e comfort, contrive, as much as lies in their power 
 to recmit their establishments out of one or other of these daC of 
 domestics, to the exclusion of the other. 
 
 The admixture of the two races, on the common footing of menials 
 IS sure to give rise to endless bickerings and jealousies. * 
 
 The natives of the Emerald Isle, for instance, soon learn to acquire 
 those prejudices of caste which prevail so strongly in their adonted 
 country and refuse even to take their meals at the^^me tab'" wTtKe 
 coloured seiyants; whilst on tlie other hand a respectable Clauomav 
 Zld L?^"h^ ''''''^'' ^^'' '^^' ^ '^'S^' '"f"«J°'^ of Afri an bS 
 
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80 
 
 but be felt ; but here the plan has its recommendations, as it 
 provides ample space for a large evening party, and at the same 
 time saves the servants the trouble of carrying the refreshments 
 upstairs. Accordingly at New York and Philadel})}ua this rule 
 seemed to prevail universally, though at Boston it is less common; 
 as I visited at several houses which were arranged differently. 
 
 The marble steps by which you ascend to the houses give 
 to them something of an air of magnificence, especially when, 
 as in many of the streets, the whole of the first story is faced with 
 this beautiful material, and a portico of the same stands in front 
 of the mansion. 
 
 The streets, however, considering their enormous length, 
 stretching as they do in many cases the whole distance between 
 the Delaware and the Schuylkill Rivers, which is not less than 
 two miles, are too narrow for effegt. 
 
 The finest buildings are the Exchange and the Bank of the 
 United States. The former is said to be taken from the " Lan- 
 thorn of Demosthenes," and is an elegant and chaste edifice. 
 The latter is an imitation of the " Parthenon," excepting that 
 the triglyphs are omitted. It is a very beautiful specimen of 
 architecture in itself, but does not groupe well with the brick 
 houses that stand nearly close to it. An unfortunate result 
 of the monotonous plan on which the streets are laid out, i;j, 
 that public edifices, such as these, cannot be placed where the;/ 
 would be well seen, and produce upon the eye the impression 
 which would result from them in other cities. 
 
 Other buildings of pretension are, the Bank of Philadelphia, 
 which stands next to the United States Bank above mentioned, 
 the Girard Bank, the Mint, the Episcopal Church, &c. But 
 the most noble and extensive structure is the Girard College, 
 at a short distance from the city to the north-west. It is at 
 present but half completed. The centre is surrounded by a 
 magnificent colonnade of Corinthian pillars, and one wing con- 
 sists of two massive square edifices, for the professors and stu- 
 dents, plain and destitute of embellishments. The other \ving 
 as yet only exists on paper. 
 
 The whole establishment flows'from the munificence of the 
 wealthy banker, Girard, who left in all 3,000,000 dollars to the 
 city of Philadelphia, for this and other public purposes. For the 
 erection of the building itself, indeed, only 300,000 dollars were 
 specially appropriated, but it is certain that the whole of the in- 
 tended range will cost many times that sum. Though the Col- 
 lege was intended by its founder specially for orphans, we may 
 hope the large funds at its disposal may be the means of creating 
 what is so much wanted in the United States, namely, a body of 
 men, sufficiently independent in point of circumstances, to de- 
 vote a part of their time to the advancement, as well as the were 
 
81 
 
 dissemination of learning, which might be effected byrenderinff 
 the duties of the professors at once less onerous anS more lu? 
 
 Stions '"^ *° ^"^^^ '" "^'^'^ ^'«« ^«^% ^' 
 
 In this attempt the directors have made a good beginning, by 
 affordmg to Professor Bache, the future principal of the Col W^ 
 the means of visitmg Europe during the time the building is^n 
 progress, m order to collect as large a fund of information as 
 possible concernmg the methods of education adopted in the 
 most civilised countries of the Old World, before they organize 
 a plan for their own Institution.* ^ "'kcuu^o 
 
 I was also much pleased with a visit to the works which sup- 
 fe ft n ^ "^''^ ? abundant and constant stock of pure water. 
 For the purpose of effecting this, the river Schuylkill is dammed 
 across, the water being thus made to flow into a lock which dis- 
 charges It mto the nver below, by means of a canal made to 
 open and shut at pkasure. As it descends through hrcand! 
 It turns a series of water-wheels, which, acting upon a co^e^ 
 sponding number of forcing pumps, drive up a purtion of it 
 mto a reservoir situated on a hill about ninety feet above the 
 river. From this reservoir the water is distributed by means 
 of pipes over every part of the city. ^ 
 
 The projectors of this establishment have here contrived to 
 combine ornament with utiUty. Fairmount, on which the re- 
 servoir 8 ands, is surrounded with gravel walks, and ornamented 
 with sta ues. A terrace beneath commands a fine view of the 
 nver at the pomt where the dam has been constructed, and a 
 laced *'''" *° """'™'* °'' "^^^^^ *^^ reservoir is 
 
 JfiV^^ Waterworks is the Eastern Penitentiary, famous for 
 Its system of prison discipline. The peculiarity of the plan here 
 adopted consists m the substitution of moral for physical disci- 
 fe.r ''^''S^ the criminal apart from every species of con- 
 temmation and in inflicting no punishment that can in any way 
 contribute to brutalize or degrade his character. ^ ^ 
 
 «wl!' li '' P;^P°«^4 to effect by means of solitary confinement, 
 wbch, though a punishment of sufficient severity to answer its 
 
 * The testator attached to his bequest the sinirular condition that 
 
 b h'Xe^e^TJ'^^'^l^T"'^ "^^^-«'- should SoS 
 
 n His College; a clause, which appeared at first so objectionable that 
 
 Iheregulat on, however, will at least have the good effect of prevent. 
 
 ng the Institution from becoming monopolized by any one of ?he pre- 
 dominant sects to the exclusion of the rest, whilst, sVlong a PhifL 
 de^hia retains Its present religious characte;, the ^ucatioSgiven aJ 
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 purpose of deterring others from crime, is said not to be followed 
 with hurtful consequences to the mind or body, provided it 
 be only combined with labour and occupation. 
 
 In comparing the principles on which the Philadelphian insti- 
 tution proceeds, with those of the Penitentiary at Auburn be- 
 fore described, few would have any hesitation in giving the pre- 
 ference to the former, but the practical consideration is, v/hether 
 these principles can be carried fully into effect. 
 
 An objection, for instance, has been made, as to the practicabi- 
 lity of cutting off so completely, as is professed to be done, all 
 communication between the prisoners ; and, perhaps, in the rigid 
 sense of the term, this must be admitted — but how extremely 
 difficult and imperfect the intercourse between them must 
 be, is sufficiently apparent from the particulars given with re- 
 spect to the modes by which the voice of any one prisoner 
 can be rendered audible to another. One of these channels of 
 communication consists of the tubes through which the apart- 
 ments are ventilated and warmed; another, of those which 
 run through the whole range of cells for carrying off filth, and 
 which are emptied once a day, at v/hich time it is admitted that 
 sound might pass through them. 
 
 It must be granted, however, that channels such as these can 
 serve the purpose of communication but very imperfectly, espe- 
 cially when we consider that the prisoners are unknown to each 
 other, and have no previous opportunities of concert ; whilst the 
 constant superintendence of their keepers must operate as an 
 additional impediment to any intercourse bet\/een them. 
 
 Upon th*^ whole, after examining the cells, arid making inquiries 
 both of the culprits themselves and of the officers of the institu- 
 tion, I arrived at the conclusion, that the correspondence between 
 the prisoners must be too rare to do away %vith the good effects 
 likely to accrue from the general discipline of the prison, or to 
 deprive it of that superiority which it Would, in other respects, 
 claim over the plan pursued at Auburn. 
 
 In the Philadelphia Penitentiary every prisoner has the choice 
 either of a double cell, or of a single one, coupled with the privi- 
 lege of walking once a day, for an^hour, in a little yard attached. 
 Confined as the space is, the desire to enjoy the open air, and 
 to stand immediately under the canopy of heaven, induces most 
 of the convicts to prefer the latter alternative. 
 
 Work is supplied to those who desire it, shoemaking and 
 weaving being the principal trades pursued, and it is rare for 
 them to remain many days without spontaneously soliciting em- 
 ployment, to escape from the horrors of ennui. The cells are 
 arranged in two stories along the sides of the corridors, of which 
 there are seven, diverging from a common centre. They are 
 heated by means of warm water. 
 
83 
 
 I conversed for some time mth a culprit, who had ber^n for 
 ten years m the gaol at Auburn before he was sentenced tr thiM 
 He was a man of intelligence, and spoke of his situation with 
 composure, and without any appearance of excessive dejection 
 "In Auburn," he said « there was no chance of reform, such 
 was the degrading influence exercised upon the minds if the 
 prisoners by the system of espionage practised, and by the cor- 
 poral punishments inflicted. The only feeli.ig engendered bv 
 such a reg-me was that of deadly hatred against the keepers 
 Here on the contrary, solitude produced a softening influence 
 and the prisoner was taught by it Lo look upon the pumshmenJ 
 as a step towards his reformation." ""icui 
 
 Another prisoner who, had also had experience of Auburn, 
 whilst he affirmed that the punishment he was here undergoing 
 proved the severer of the two, admitted it, at the same tune! 
 to be the more salutary in its effects. 
 
 Privjate religious instruction is sometimes (I believe rarelv) 
 given by the chaplain. He, however, on Sundays reads divine 
 service m the corridors, in a position, from which, as the cells 
 are then open, his voice will reach to all parts of the gallery, 
 rhe food served is wholesome and sufficient, though coarse. 
 
 With regard to the rate of mortality here, it is admitted to be 
 somewhat, though not greatly, more considerable than that in 
 other prisons-but tne excess was explained by the number of 
 
 LVTl r^^f ''" Tu^'^"'' '^'y ^^^"^ ^^ Pensylvania an exotic 
 race, and therefore the more exposed to disease, especially of 
 a glandular nature. ^ «^> wi 
 
 During my visit I witnessed the manner in which a prisoner 
 IS conducted into the prison. BHndfolded, he is first taken into 
 a room where he is stripped of all his clothes-he then goes into 
 a second, where he is thoroughly washed-and, afterwards into 
 a hird, wnere he is clad in the prison dress. He is then bhnd- 
 folded again, and marched into the cell assigned for his abode 
 so that he continues throughout perfectly unacquainted with 
 ne topography of the prison, as well as with its inmates. It is, 
 
 f I "f 'u "P?.-''^^^/'''' ^'"^ ^° ^^^"tify after his liberation those 
 who had been his fellow prisoners-and thus one great cause of 
 a return to vicious habits, namely, a recognition t>y those who 
 had suffered a similar disgrace, is prevented. On being let loose 
 again upon society, no individual but himself, need be aware that 
 he had ever rendered himself amenable to the laws of his country, 
 and the facility with which employment may be procured in 
 America, removes from him the temptation of returning to his 
 old courses from actual want. * 
 
 I went, another daj% to see the Almshouse, which, if it were 
 in Italy, would have obtained the title, which in fact it deserves, 
 ot Palazzo dei Poven. It is, indeed, a most imposing edifice 
 
 
 
 ■' ■ V:- S\ 
 
84 
 
 erected on a rising ground above the Schuylkill, which it proudly 
 overlooks, holding out a sort of invitation, to all who dislike la* 
 bour, and do not value independence, to come and be fed and 
 clothed at the public expense. It accommodates at present about 
 sixteen hundred paupero, who are lodged very comfortably, each 
 having a httle room to himself, opening into a large and lofty 
 hall which they enjoy in common. 
 
 Certain trades, such as weaving, shoemaking, and spinning, 
 are carried on within the premises, a certain amount of work 
 being enjoined, and the surplus, if any, paid for. The paupers, 
 however, appeared to me, for the most part, to be taking the 
 matter quite easily ; and, as in some of the workshops the sexes 
 were intermixed, and there was no superintendent present, much 
 abuse must, I should suspect, arise. 
 
 Several of the men, as well as of the women, were able-bodied 
 — and it appears to be the custom with many, to take up their 
 quarters there during the winter, and to emerge from thence so 
 soon as summer comes on. 
 
 It appears from the returns, that more than half were aliens— 
 the numbers admitted in 1834, being 1668 Americans, and 1895 
 foreigners. 
 
 Of the American paupers, there were — 
 
 Males. 
 
 Born in Philadelphia 512 
 
 In the rest of Pentylvania 149 
 
 In other States of the Union .... 316 
 
 Of the foreign paupers — 
 
 There were from the British dominions 1150 .. 457 
 And of these were from Ireland 937 . . 360 
 
 This document is in itself a striking proof both of the compa- 
 rative comfort enjoyed by the people of Philadelphia, and of their 
 expansive benevolence. 
 
 I was told that the building itself cost altogether about a mil- 
 lion of dollars. It forms an extensive quadrangle, comprehending, 
 a hospital for the sick and infirm; an almshouse for children; 
 and houses or apartments for the various officers, including four 
 resident physicians. 
 
 I cannot tell what the management may be, but I suspect it to 
 be loose and neghgent. At any rate the principle is a bad one, 
 and the only security against the evil consequences arising from 
 the existence of such an institution, resides in the spirit of inde- 
 pendence, which at present animates the lower class of citizens. 
 Even here, I observed a separation to exist between white and 
 coloured persons. Why should not this be broken down ? Its 
 removal would operate more forcibly than any other measure, to 
 prevent the, charity from being abused. 
 
 Females. 
 
 • 93 
 . 227 
 
85 
 
 The onlv other building of great interest in PhUadelphia 
 owes Its celebrity to historical recoUections, rather than to any 
 architectural beauty belonging to it. It is the State House, 
 in one apartment of which, the celebrated "Declaration of In- 
 dependence was agreed upon ; I could not get admission to the 
 room Itself, wnich is, I was told, dismantled. 
 
 The building is a plain brick structure, with a kind of steeple 
 in the centre, on ^yhlch is a clock, illuminated by night. It 
 forms one of the sides of Independence Square, which, with 
 the adjacent one called alter Washington, is the favourite abode 
 ^th trSr^ ^^ ^ "*'^^"^* ^""^^ ""^ ^^^"^ spacious, and planted 
 
 In the department of Natural History the only public collec- 
 tions are the following : — ^ 
 
 ■ ^'{!-* wil'^ c ^- *^^ Academy of Sciences, a circular building, 
 m which the Society of Natural History holds its meetings. 
 
 Second.— Peale's Museum, which is, however, a private sue- 
 culation, kept up by shares bought by individuals! The two 
 greatest curiosities it contains are, an almost perfect specimen 
 of the American Mastodon, considerably more gigantic than any 
 existing elephant; and that of the rare animal found in the 
 Meghanies belonging to the Armadillo family, called by Dr 
 Harlan, Chamyphorus. y ^i' 
 
 s. S'^rTw P^^i^soP^ical Society, which likewise contains 
 a small collection of specimens; the most valuable part of its 
 possessions however, is a series of the Transactions of most of 
 the Learned Societies m Europe. Mr. Vaughan, the librarian, 
 a wonderfully active man for his age, which is eighty-one, ren- 
 ders these and the other works in the library very accessible. 
 
 SwVh L"S- 'u^ -^^^"^ ^"^ ""^^'^^S of men, universally 
 beloved for his urbanity of manners and benevolence of charac- 
 ter, and distinguished for his unwearied zeal for science and 
 scientific men.* 
 
 «p v!?.^ P'-esidcnt of the Society, Mr. Duponceau, himself 
 seventy-eight years of age, is, hkewise, a very extraordinary 
 person. 1 hough nearly blind and deaf, he is engaged in editing 
 a work on the language of Cochin China, which, though written 
 in hieroglyphic characters, like the Chinese, differs nevertheless 
 m the meaning of the signs which enter into its composition. 
 _ l-roni the explanation he was kind enough to give me of his 
 views, I collect, that he admits three distinct kinds of writing — - 
 hrst, that in which signs are significant of words; secondly, 
 that m which they are significant of syllables; thirdly, that in 
 whica they express only letters. Each kind is perfect in its way, 
 
 * He died in the course of the present year, 1842. 
 
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86 
 
 and adapted to the genius of the language it expresses. The 
 Chinese symbols indicate whole words ; the Sanscrit and Che- 
 rokee, whole syllables; the European languages, in which 
 alphabetical writing exists, only letters. 
 
 The Chinese symbols are employed also in Cochin-China, and 
 express there the same sounds, but the latter may, or may not, 
 indicate the same ideas. Sometimes, indeed, they do, but often 
 the sense attached is different in the two countries. Thus the 
 same symbol indicates a metal in the one, and a needle in the 
 ^^^^^A^f^i other, although the word is identical in both langyuagc s. 
 
 / Mr. Duponceau is a native of the Isle of Rhe in France. 
 
 From his knowledge of languages he was appointed secretary to 
 Baron Steuben when he came over on a mission to America. 
 Since that time he acquired an independence as a lawyer, and 
 for the last twenty years of his life has devoted himself to 
 Oriental literature. He is a singular man, very absent, very 
 forgetful, but has a spice of French vivacity and politesse 
 about him, like an abbe of the old regime. 
 
 The University of Pensylvania, another institution connected 
 with learning, consists of two buildings, neat and plain in their 
 external appearance ; the first apparently appropriated entirely 
 to lecture-rooms, the other to halls for examinations and other 
 public purposes. 
 
 In the former, I saw the lecture-room of Dr. Hare, the Pro- 
 fessor of Chemistry, which is very spacious and commodious. 
 In his apparatus the Doctor spares neither expense nor labour, 
 and his experiments are all on a magnificent scale. His con- 
 trivance for plunging the galvanic battery into the cells, and 
 removing it from the same, by a single movement which 
 could be effected in an instant, was an highly convenient one, 
 and would have come into general use, had not the new inven- 
 tions for rendering the action constant, and dependent on the 
 connection between the poles, rendered it of minor importance 
 to take out the plates at the moment when they cease to '. re- 
 quired. I counted at his lecture nearly three hundred stiiusnts, 
 and the room, it is said, will hold five hundred. 
 
 I also attended on two occasions the public examinations, 
 which take place at the end of each term. From what I there 
 observed, as well as from the accounts I obtained from others, 
 I may venture to set down the following as an outline of the 
 scheme of instruction pursued in this Institution. 
 
 The students are divided into four classes, corresponding with 
 the four years supposed to be spent in study at the University. 
 They are called respectively — Seniors, Sophomores, Juniors, and 
 Freshmen. 
 
87 
 
 The Seniors are examined in- 
 
 The Elements of Criticism, 
 
 Tacitus, 
 
 History of United States, 
 
 The Sophomores in — 
 Technology, 
 Epistles of Horace, 
 
 The Juniors in — 
 Logic* 
 Chemistry, 
 Odyssey, 
 
 The Freshmen in— 
 Antient History, 
 Herodotus and Valpy's Ex- 
 ercises, 
 
 Chemistrjr, 
 Differential Calculus, 
 Optics. 
 
 History of England, 
 Geometry. 
 
 Evidences of Christianity, 
 Mechanics. 
 
 Algebra. 
 
 Physical Geography. 
 
 Before the students in medicine begin their professional stu- 
 dies, It IS necessary for them to have gone through the foregoinir 
 hst, so that they cannot obtain a license to practice before theS 
 twenty-first year. The discipline is, in some respects, laxer, in 
 others stricter than with us. Thus the students live in the to^ 
 and, consequently, have no restnctions imposed upon them at 
 night; but, on the other hand, they are forbidden by statute, 
 from entering a tavern, from drinking wine, and from ridinff on 
 enforced ^ ^"^ *^® ^^"^^ *^° prohibitions are not rigidly 
 
 They are obliged to attend chapel once a day, and to be pre- 
 sent at the professional lectures. 
 
 With regard to expense, it would appear, that the strictly ne- 
 cessary charges are nearly equal to those at our own Universities, 
 the fees for mstruction amounting to 25Z. per annum; the board 
 and lodging to about sol.; but then the style of living enables 
 them to get on with a much smaUer income than can well be 
 done at Oxford. The whole number of students in aU the three 
 faculties, and in arts, together taken, amounts nearly to eight 
 hundred, more than half of whom are medical. They enter 
 usuaUy between the age of fourteen and fifteen, and, conse- 
 quently, may obtain the degree of Bachelor of Arts between 
 seventeen and eighte6n. If, at the expiration of the year, the 
 student, on being examined, does not come up to the mark he 
 must either leave the University, or continue for a longer period 
 m the same class as before. & f ^^J■ 
 
 Emulation is encouraged bysingUngout the ten best scholars 
 and noticing them at the end of each half year, in the order of 
 merit. As a concession to the prevailing spirit of the times 
 
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 88 
 
 classics and the modern sciences are placed, as much as possible 
 on a par in the estimate of the student's proficiency. ' 
 
 After attending one of the public examinations, I came away 
 with the impression, that the difference between the Englishman 
 and American, consists, not so much in his proficiei. jy at the age 
 of eighteen, which is, perhaps, not very different, but in his sub- 
 sequent progress; the American considering his studies then 
 completed, and plunging at once into active life ; the English- 
 man proceeding on in his, till at least twenty-one or twenty- 
 
 ITie Philosophical Society, at the time of my visit, seemed to 
 be thinly attended. It is too true, that Americans in general 
 interest themselves but little in anything but pohtics, and what 
 science there is seems broken up into little knots and cabals 
 Yet there are some good names j Bache, indeed, is absent in 
 Europe ; but Hare and Mitchell are respectable and laborious 
 chemists; Rogers and Nuttal, the one in geology, the other in 
 botany, hold a distinguished place. Harlan ranks high m com- 
 parative anatomy ; Lea is eminent in conchology ; and Monsieur 
 Duponceau, as a philologist, would do honour to any European 
 capital. These are men who have risen to eminence without 
 favour or aid from the state, which has no idea of encouraging 
 any kind of knowledge not possessing some immediate practici 
 bearing. 
 
 I was amused, however, at finding that the legislature had 
 been induced on utilitarian principles to grant a sum for the im- 
 provement of meteorology, having been persuaded that the farmer 
 might be enabled, by means of this science, to prognosticate the 
 kind of weather likely to ensue, and thus to provide against 
 many of the perils by which his crops are menaced. 
 
 Mr. Espy, the individual who has been principally intrusted with 
 this commission, is an enthusiast in this branch of knowledge 
 and I have no doubt it is in perfect good faith, that he asserts,— 
 " That any careful observer will be able to tell when any great 
 stonn comes within four hundred miles of him, as also the di- 
 rection of the storm from the place of observation," and also 
 that he professes to shew, " how a system of simultaneous ob- 
 servations over our wide extended' country will probably enable 
 us to tell, whether a storm, whose direction from us we already 
 know, will reach us, or move in some other direction."* 
 
 I do not, indeed, doubt, that by means of the observations set 
 on foot, a mass of facts will eventually be got together, calculated 
 to assist us towards the true theory of the changes that take place 
 m the atmosphere ; but it requires but a smattering of science to 
 feel, that such knowledge can be acquired only by slow degrees, 
 
 * In a Letter printed in the Saturday Courier of March i6, 1837. 
 
89 
 
 ?nr^t'Vll!f P'^'*^'^ ^'°'^^« anticipated from a grant of money 
 for the above purpose, are reserved for distant posteritvS 
 
 M> V,n »^"«^n'?"-^^^^^ ^^« ^"™«hed the outhy 
 expound ?K.n'^^'f;^"^ .'T^^ *" ^^" «" "^« °"^ day, and to 
 Sn at nn.P ^"^^ '""^'f" ^" ^"«"^Pt« *« account^or that 
 SeCnd to /fr£r*°7 ""l^ progressive, which certain storm« 
 
 it rightly, is as follows 1 "" ^^'^^^^ ^^ ^ understand 
 
 surfoce must Tend' In"' *y f.'^^'^'''" °^ ^^^^ ^^"^ ^^^ ^^^^'s 
 Se? d^rl fl X '''"5' *^^ '^'•^*^ of ^ir nearest to it, in a 
 c^rtafn amount nfV^''' '^'^'- ^^^« "^'^ ^^l^ing in solut on a 
 TrSer le^^v "L ^^i"^7 V^P^""' ^^"' consequently, from its 
 fn nro'iSn IS'' '"'^ '.^^ P'^^"^« ^" upward Jrent. But 
 ieS dSnc? om"u;f eartr^hir'^-?, T' *'^^^'°^^' f ^ 
 
 duced * ' '" ""^^^^ ''''''^'' ^ ^l^"d ^vill be pro- 
 
 ^^^i^^M ^£t r ^^^ -r 
 
 ^^^su^lcl'^^^t^^^ it h'aT c^rrir/^^p^'fr ^ 
 
 vanour lience hP ;. ^^f '^ '""^ '' ^^ *^^ ^^^"^ of vesicular 
 ascer^Knff cuS^^^^^^^ '"^ ^^'^^^ places a continual 
 
 ascen img current, and it is m these that storms are apt to take 
 
 The objection which strikes me to the latter nart nf th. 
 
 aS crseouen t^ T'''^ ^^'^' ^'' ^"^ "^"^^^"^^ i« increased, 
 auu, consequently, the aqueous vapour will be redissnlvprl 
 
 sphere on the surfac^e mav^X?.!. T •''f P!.""'""' ^" *^« ^^'"o- 
 of any cloud immediateTy abl us ' '^' ^''^^' '^'^' ^^^^'^^ ^^argin. 
 
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 merit of first clearly establishing ihe law regulating their course, 
 which has since received so n-iany striking confirmations.* 
 
 The society at Philadelphia is of a more varied character than 
 that of any other city of the Union, and though somewhat less 
 literary than that of Boston, would be, I conceive, generally 
 consiafered more varied and agreeable. 
 
 The entertainments to which I was invited were as luxurious 
 as those I am accustomed to see in England, and, perhaps, 
 ever, exhibited a more profuse style of hospitality. They were 
 conducted very much in the European fashion, except with re- 
 spect to the absence of the fair sex ; for it certainly is not com- 
 mon for any ladies, except the mistress of the house, to make 
 their appearance at the dinner table j and even at the few evening 
 parties to which I was admitted, in which young ladies abound- 
 ed, the mammas seemed to occupy the back ground. I beUeve, 
 there k no part of the world, not even England, where con- 
 jugal infidelity is so rare as at Philadelphia, and it is, therefore, 
 but fair to give the ladies credit for the more sterling qualities 
 which befit their station as wives and mothers ; but it must be 
 confessed, thai from all I have seen, here and elsewhere, there 
 does appear on their part an inferiority to Europeans of the 
 same rank, in powers of conversation and in the graces of life. 
 This, too, is the more remarkable, because the young ladies are 
 less embarrassed in company, than those of a similar age in the 
 Old World, and certainly assume a more prominent part in the 
 society into which they enter; nor is their education, I believe, 
 conducted with less care, or with a less studious attention to 
 external accomplishments. 
 
 With respect to personal charms, I doubt whether any Euro- 
 pean capital, of the same size, would produce an equal ivamber 
 of elegant and sylph-Uke forms ; but the very delicacy of shape 
 and feature which distinguishes the fair Philadelphians, is a sure 
 indication of premature decay; and I have been surprised at 
 being told, in how short a period the wearing effects of an ex- 
 cessive climate, and probably the unvaried monotony of domestic 
 cares, have caused the torch of Hymen to be succeeded by the 
 wrinkles of age. 
 
 The pleasantest evening partie's I attended were those given 
 every Saturday by the Wistar Society, originally a club intend- 
 ed for the reception of men of science, but since thrown open 
 to a much more numerous class of persons, and sure to bring 
 together all the respectable strangers that happen to be in the 
 place. These and other small soirees of the same description, 
 seem, at this time of the year, to be very frequent in Philadel- 
 
 * See note, page 12. 
 
91 
 
 phia, and one cause of their prevalence has been stated to me to 
 be a w.8h on the part of the leading citizens to recondle aristo" 
 
 can institutions. 1 hus they find it convenient to invite numbers 
 of persons who would not be admissible to the coterLs at whirh 
 tlieir ladies are present-such for instance, as countv members 
 llpr-. ?k"*'°"'"''" of business, and even actors Tf the 
 latter tamp there was a gentleman present atone of their parties 
 1« Vnl^ >?^ ^'^^^y respectable as an individual, could^no l' 
 
 other wines m profusion, are always introduced, buT the assem- 
 
 ^oll' "^''" '''^ ""™^^""^ ^''^ '^^«^^"^« t« the size of the 
 
 During my stay at Philadelphia, the Convention, which had 
 been called together to amend the Constitution of Pensylvania 
 was ho ding Its sittings. It is certainly a proof of the "«': 
 tive feehngs which are engendered by the general possession of 
 competency, and by an equal distribution ^ofpowe^r^SX^ 
 suffering nearly a century to elapse, the sovereign pe^le should 
 at length proceed, with so much deliberation, and ifter so many 
 delays, to amend defects which they perceive to exist in Tome 
 parts of their original system of government. The ConveS 
 
 ircondudl'; T' '™^ 'TT"^' ^"^ when TtsTabo'rs 
 f^ ^;,f r • , .^' ^^^V proposed reforms will be submitted to 
 the State Legislatures for pubUc consideration, and if thTn an" 
 proved, must be finally brought before the people co Sivelv 
 
 to sStTRaT""- T ^.^! ^"^^*^°" '^''^ under^disc^ussion reS 
 to btate Banks, an Institution, to which all the orators who were 
 
 vfmLttt^r^ *'^ ^^"^^ ' «^-^ - ^^^ --> — d 
 TTieir style of speaking struck me as vague, declamatorv 
 ^d inconclusive, defects arising from the necTsi ty of7ppeal7g, 
 to the passions, and bringing themselves down to the capac tv 
 
 In Twi"- \°'' '^'^''' ^ «^«"ld «^y> «f the sovereign pSe' 
 who, with their hats on, were seated ih the gallery wWlst tS 
 servants, the members of the Convention, feSd the points 
 
 however tA'^'^iv '^^\^^^^^-^^' It must be admS 
 However, that the pul)hc speakers, on this side of the Atlantic 
 are more generally, than with us, fluent and unembar as^^^^^^^^ 
 qualities, which I attribute to the early and frequent exercise 
 of their powers m this respect. ^ exercise 
 
 th?S ^ ^"hsequent occasion I was more fortunate, Mr. Serjeant 
 the President of the Convention, being on his legs, who pfoved 
 
 ':*, 
 
92 
 
 a very superior orator to those I had before heard. There was 
 no atteinn)t, indeed, on his imrt to enter into the profound ques- 
 tions which the subject ot banks involves — such a line would 
 have been ill adapted to the chaiacter of the audience, I mean 
 the (fods of the f<allery : but he turned with much adroitness 
 the arguments of the former sijcakers against themselves, and 
 shewed that the United States Bank savoured more of a demo- 
 cratical institution than of one calculated to favour the aristo- 
 cracy, and that the outcry raised against it as an instrument 
 against popular government was unfounded and absurd. 
 
 Sunday, December, 24th. —Went to the Episcopal Church, 
 with my friend Nicklin, and heard Bishop Onderdonk preach. 
 He afterwards confirmed about thirty persons, and delivered a 
 short charge. 
 
 In the afternoon, had the curiosity, and, if I were a Phi- 
 ladclphian, I should have added, the boldness, to attend the 
 Kujger Church, and to hear a parson, about whose colour there 
 could be no mistnke, hold forth before a congregation, amongst 
 which mvself and my servant were the only whites present. 
 
 I confess, I came away agreeably disappointed — the service 
 was performed with the utmost propriety, and with(mt any ex- 
 travagance of manner — the sermon quite as good as the average 
 of those I have generally heard, and delivered with great cor- 
 rectnevss of tone and pronunciation — the congregation respect- 
 ably dressed and decently behaved.* 
 
 Monday, December 2r,.— This being Christmas Day, I heard 
 Dr. Lancey in the morning, and was much pleased with his ser- 
 mon. He is decidedly the most impressive preacher I have yet 
 met with, and is exempt from all sins against good taste. His 
 diction, indeed, is refined and classical, calculated to be very 
 effective in England. 
 
 Observed an unusual crowd walking in the streets, and every 
 one I met was dressed at least as well as our London appren- 
 ^ tices. This\ indeed, is the i)ride of America, and may well serve 
 to cover a multitude of other defects. But travellers are too apt 
 in their estimate of a pople, to look up at the Corinthian 
 capital of society, rather than at the solid shaft. 
 
 Dined with Dr. Hare, the Professor of Chemistry, who had 
 
 * I recollec*; askinpf Bishop Onderdonk, a day or two afterwards, 
 whether he thought this black Preacher made his own sermons. He 
 told me he had no doubt of it, and referred me to some letters whicli 
 he had printed in a newspajier on some question affecting the negro 
 race, as a sutiicient proof of his capacity. 
 
99 
 
 invitfld « large party of Ins friends and puj.ilH. Heard from J)f 
 Mitchell, who was one of the quests, .•> i,ry candid .^1,^ of ! .m 
 humbug o annual magnetis,, now r.nuLg i X ' in 1 o 
 Umted States, lie .s a believer n, the power of pro -L maL- 
 
 even nunks, that by partienliar inotK.n.s. performed durinir the 
 slumber of his pat.eut. the operator ea.i Lronse him Se o 
 natural time, even though a board or screen be i ten ose 
 Here however. hiH belief enrled. for with regard to thrproCe 1 
 
 U8 now It might be possible, by a certain train of ouestions mik 
 during the state of reverie or somnambulism. t<, leafl on the pa 
 tient to entertain any s(,rt of images or dre ims at the p easS?e 
 ofthemagnetiser. tVom his account. Coh.nel Stont who has 
 made so much noi«e at New York, must have beei a mere 
 
 Tuesday. December 2r)th.~Colonel Biddle took me over in 
 company wah Professor Rogers and Mr. MT: aine.To sle the 
 
 SdelSiXhl 1^"'"^""^' '^•^*''^"* f ^""' --" miles from 
 IbUaciUphia. Ihe house was neat and plain, and the arrange 
 
 mens for sleeping very convenient, eacl/ boy having to hiSf 
 
 a ht le bed-room, which opened into a gallery well li^hterrn 1 
 
 ventilated. This plan has\he advantagf of Jff^l ^^^^^^ 
 
 ^oS ha;:rne"^ "^"^^ "^^^^ '^'^'^ ^^- ^ commonlS^ 
 
 The boys were from ten to eighteen years of age. Thev are 
 
 andtrTef NatrdT/'r"'^ of learnfng, and rSany In Za?in 
 ana ureek, Natural Philosophy, Chemistry. &c. To obtain a 
 
 Sed^ """''^""''' '^^ '^' '^''' branche^'must have been a" 
 It is professed to exclude emulation as a motive of action and 
 corporal punishments are never allowed. I doubt! however 
 whether the former rule is strictly maintained, llere arlfou; 
 preceptors and about seventy pupils. A botanic garden ^8 
 laying out for them, a small philosophical apparatus lias been 
 purchased and a museum of natural history i to be collected 
 as the institution advances. couectea, 
 
 In the evening, went to a meeting of the Colonization Society 
 ?Ia ^^«^f'/^e«^dent of the Methodist College in ConneS 
 addressed the assembly. His discourse was conciliarornnd Ws 
 reasoning plausible. He argued, that little as thesocfety he 
 advocated may seem to have done towards the emancTpS of 
 the blacks, the Abolitionists had effected still less iC Colo 
 mzationists had at least sent out two thousand coloured peSons" 
 to Liberia, there to enjoy the blessings of freedom, whUst ?he 
 
 
 K. 
 
 v •> . 
 
 1 
 
II 
 [f 1 
 
 94 
 
 Abolitioniats had only aggravated the evils of the slavei at home 
 by exciting suspicions in the minds of their masters against 
 them. 
 
 He then alluded to the late agitation on this subject in Con- 
 gress, and said, " that the very coldness of the North acted like 
 80 much additional fuel to feed the angry passions of the South. 
 In this case, it might be said, in the words of Milton, that— 
 
 '* ' Cold performs the part of heat.' " 
 The general impression which his discourse left on my mind, 
 was, that the Colonization Society may accomplish a certain 
 amount of good, provided only it does not act as a salvo on the 
 consciences of its members, by persuading them that they have 
 done all that lays in their power towards removing this tremen- 
 dous injustice, by merely subscribing a small sum for the pur- 
 pose of sending out a few of the free blacks to a distant colony. 
 It is on the latter ground that the Abolitionists are averse to it. 
 
 Thursday, De. -mber 28th.— This morning I had intended :o 
 have taken n:.) 'parture for Baltimore, but such was the punc- 
 tuality with w. -n the steamer started, that a trifling difference 
 in clocks cost me my passage. I therefore filled up my time 
 by visiting the City Library, which was founded about a cen- 
 tury ago, and is the largest in the country, though containing 
 only 43,000 volumes. Saw Gilbert Stuart's picture of Wash- 
 ington, an admirable and vivid delineation of character, though 
 it must be confessed, there is somewhat prosaic in the expression 
 of the countenance, considered as the portraiture of so great a 
 man — 
 
 " Naaire designed tliee for a heroes mould, 
 But, ere she cast thee, let the stuff grow col '.** 
 
 In the evening, went to a party at Mr. Dunn's, a very liberal 
 and hospitable Quaker, who has amassed a large fortune, as a 
 China merchant, and has come home laden with curiosities from 
 that country. Met a large party who did jvstice to a very ex- 
 cellent supper.* 
 
 Friday, December 29th.— Started at half past seven o'clock 
 by the steamer to Wilmington, and on landing there, was for- 
 warded without delay from thence to Baltimore by rail-road. 
 We had to cross several estuaries of the Bay of Chesapeake, 
 constituting the mouths of the large rivers which flow into it. 
 
 • I little thought at that time, that I should ever meet my friend 
 and his Museun. of Curiosities in Loudon, as I had the satisfaction of 
 doing this year, 1842. 
 
95 
 
 Of these the most considerable was the Susquehanna wh\rh 
 took the steam-vessel ten minutes to traverse On thrnnn^? 
 side we found another train of cars in readinP.« V. oppc^ite 
 ward, so that in spite of all thiim^eS^n tclu^ 
 conveyances, crossing rivers c^c thp whnio .1;; ^ ^^^^gmg 
 us no more than six hours ' ^"'' ^"""P^^^ 
 
 The sun rose m great splendour, like a red hall nC ..r.r.^ 
 brightness, with its image rejected on the vvpfl/ .u°'"'°'! 
 intensity, nor did it bell the prfmi:: ^t^morr^^ f^rft 
 favoured us with its cheering influence throLhon? tfc ^ 
 which, though cold, was therefore agTeeable fo thl f r ^^' 
 The view of the Susquehanna River anrthat of P^f^ 1, n "^,'* 
 
 ti?ul'^ 1^7 f-^^^^ Baltimor^'C's t'rf sf£^^^^^^^^^ 
 tiful. lound decent accommodations at Barnum's hoteh 
 
 Saturday December 30th.— Dr. Macauley (the eentleman tn 
 
 IS proceeding, and even a trigonometrical survey haV been un 
 dertaken under the auspices of Mr. Alexander^ ^ """ 
 
 Cal ed also on Dr. Eccleshall, the Roman Catholic Archbishon 
 of Ba timore, a young looking man for such an Ll^fi^ ? 
 but with the manner£of a poLhed gentleman, an^ptsessC 
 It is said, considerable talents. He recp\^rJ ... Possessing, 
 urbanity and recommer !,d us io "jt ZZminZ ov * wS 
 
 00. unlike those at tlfe Qualcer SS^K "y Srtd ?n 
 this Journal, and into these they are bolted at niX 
 
 I me at the College a Mons. Nicollet, a FSnc'hman in.t 
 
 returned from a journey of five years into the remoterparti Tf 
 
 he American Comment, sixteen months of which time K»H 
 
 spent amongst the Indian tribes mar the sour7es Tthe Mi. 
 
 sissipp,, the position of which he consideThimse^ to fZ 
 
 ;:rr ''.".^'^74' "In"? "^"^"^ '^"^ '^«'-s-nd''iot! 
 
 and dip-in most- o'fThU'p'ots he viTed? '" '"'«"^"" "^'"^ 
 I had a pleasant chat with him in the evening. He seems to 
 
96 
 
 be no enemy to lynch law as a substitute for that more regular 
 administration of justice, which is unattainable in the wild 
 regions of the West.* 
 
 Sunday, December 31st. — Went to the Episcopal Church, 
 which was numerously attended by a very well-dressed congre* 
 gation, evidently composed of the elite of the place. Looked in 
 afterwards at the Catholic Cathedral, which was more crowded, 
 but contained a smaller proportion of the better orders. 
 
 The Cathedral is an extremely ugly looking pile, and the 
 dome which surmounts it is the most untasteful I have ever 
 seen. I know not what to compare it to, except it be to a huge 
 coal-heaver's hat clapped upon the centre of the building. The 
 interior of the Church is more commendable, but appears rather 
 naked, from the absence of those statues and shrines which deco- 
 rate most Romish places of worship. The choir was excellent. 
 
 As to the city of Baltimore itself, it is irregularly built, but 
 
 * Perhaps his partiality for this rough practice may hare been 
 enhanced by an adventure which occurred to him in the Wisconsin 
 territory. 
 
 Arriving at an inn, in a spot which he intended to make his head 
 qjiarters for a few days, he applied for beds for himself and two com- 
 panions or attendants. The landlord however replied, that of the 
 eight which were contained in the only bedroom of which the house 
 oculd boast, seven were already occupied, but that he might make the 
 most of the remaining one. He recommended him however to keep a 
 sharp look out after it when bed time approached, or it might per- 
 chance be seized upon by some new comer, whom he would find it 
 difficult to dislodge. 
 
 Mons. Nicollet accordingly kept a vigilant watch the first evening; 
 but on the second, tempted by the brightness of the night, he stroUed 
 out to look at the stars, and on his return found his bed in full posses- 
 sion of a stranger, who doggedly refused to turn out. 
 
 After employing other arguments in vain, Mons. Nicollet advanced 
 one which he flattered himself would be decisive, informing him, that 
 he, the prior occupant of the bed, v/as labouring at the time under the 
 itch. But the imperturbable Yankee dexterously turned this weapon 
 of attack against himself, by replying, with much sang-froid, " Well, 
 I aint mighty particular, for I have had that there a precious long spell, 
 I reckon." 
 
 The poor Frenchman after this felt no further inclination to contest 
 his right to the bed, and accordingly resigned himself to his fate — not 
 however unrevenged, for the strangers who occupied the other seven 
 beds, on talking the mrtter over the next morning, agreed that it was 
 a disgrace to the coimiiy to treat a foreigner in this manner, and 
 accordingly held a trial over the offender, and sentenced him to a good 
 flogging, whi;;h, after tying him to the next tree, they administered 
 in good earnest. 
 
97 
 
 fiot deficient ift handsome hftuses. They are in general perhaps 
 in better taste than those of Philadelphia. pernaps 
 
 It is somewhat 5rranrfi7o9Men% termed "the City of Monu- 
 ments, but I only recollect two of any note which it possesses. 
 One of these is a pillar m commemoration of the repulse of the 
 Bntish troops when they made a dash at the city in 1814 
 styled the Battle Monument, which is not sufficiently loftv to 
 bear a very imposmg air, and is too much frittered into com- 
 partments to appear in good taste. The other is a column sur- 
 mounted by a figure of Washington, very handsome in itself, 
 and rendered still more so by its simplicity and by the grandeur 
 of its proportions. / e 
 
 I dined with Dr. Macauley, who gave us a capital dinner, 
 including, amongst other good things, that luxury of the United 
 Sta es, the canvas-back duck, only met with in perfection near 
 Baltimore, for the sake of which an Apicius, I am sure, would 
 have felt less scruple m traversing the Atlantic, than he is report- 
 ed to have had m crossmg the Mediterranean in order to taste 
 the African lobsters. 
 
 f^J^w/t^* New-year's day, iSaS.-^I started in the morning 
 for Washington by the railroad, and reached that city about 
 T. hi. ^i^® weather was even more genial and bright than 
 that of the days preceding it, the sun shining brightly in at the 
 wmdows of the carriage, which, being heated by a stove, felt 
 almost oppressively hot. 
 
 ■ ^^ Pv?'f ^ ^ very fine and wide bridge over the Pataxent 
 river, which flows to Baltimore, and met with much unreclaimed 
 forest on our road. The Capitol looked very imposing from a 
 distance. On my arnval went to the annual Levee, given by the 
 President to usher in the new year, but felt myself rather 
 awkwardly circumstanced from the want of some one to nre- 
 sent me. ^ 
 
 Doubtless there is a motley assemblage of people collected on 
 such an occasion, but by far the greater number were well- 
 dressed, and the shabbily attired artisans, I observed, more 
 commonly contented themselves with standing in the lobbies 
 gaping at the smart people who were going to and fro 
 
 Persons of a very wild and uncouth exterior here and there 
 presented themselves to the chief magistrate, and walked, as it 
 were in bravado, through the apartments, but they were few in 
 number, and seemed rather out of their element. The rooms 
 are of handsome proportions, but fitted up in a style of extreme 
 plainness. When Captain Hall was at Washington they appear 
 to have been entirely unfurnished. ^ ^^ 
 
 Uur minister Mr. Fox did violence on this occasion to his 
 usual habits of late rising, and actually made his appearance at 
 
 K 
 
 
 
98 
 
 the Levee by one o'clock, an effort on his part, which, they told 
 me afterwards, was regarded by the quidnuncs of Washington, 
 as portending something important, either for good or for evil, 
 in the diplomatic relations between England and America. 
 
 Being myself rather a delinquent ni the same way, I am 
 pleased to record this trait in the character of our worthy repre- 
 sentative, inasmuch as it proves that late hours are not incom- 
 patible with activity and attention ; for the estimation he is held 
 in at Washington, his excellent diplomatic notes, and his conti- 
 nuance in office under two administrations, shew, that at least 
 he has not slumbered at his post. 
 
 As to Mr. Van Buren, he seemed to have put on his best 
 smiles and his most condescending nods of recognition for the 
 occasion, and his supple air brought to my recollection Major 
 Downing's ludicrous description of him, and of his adventure at 
 Downingville *, when he was jerked from his horse, and de- 
 scribed a somerset in the air, but in spite of all this, contrived 
 to alight on his legs, and "made as handsome a bow to the 
 folks, as if nothing on earth had happened to him." In fact, 
 though the " General's coat," as the Major says, " may be too 
 long for him," he contrives to wear it with ease and dignity. 
 
 After the Levee was over, I took a stroll over this stragghng 
 city — 
 
 " The famed metropolis, where fancy sees 
 Squares in morasses, obelisks in trees" — 
 
 in truth a most bewildering sort of place for a stranger, being 
 a tract as large perhaps as the whole of London, dotted over at 
 uncertain intervals with detached buildings, between which no 
 imaginable connexion can be traced. 
 
 But it is needless to dwell upon defects, which have been so 
 often pointed out, and are in themselves palpable enough at 
 first sight. 
 
 The absence of good inns, and the difficulty of finding out 
 one's friends, are, it must be confessed, great drawbacks to the 
 comforts o . residence at Washington. 
 
 In the evening I went to the theatre, and heard Vandenhoff 
 in Cato. It was a chaste and classical performance, in perfectly 
 good keeping throughout. H& was, as might be expected, but 
 indifferently supported. All parts of the house were fully 
 thronged. 
 
 Tuesday, January 2nd. — Called on my former geological 
 friend, Mr. Featherstonehaugh,t whom I was glad to find hold- 
 
 * See Major Downing's letters, Letter 2nd. 
 
 t He has been since employed by our own government, conjointly 
 with Colonel Mudge, in surveying the disputed territorvj between 
 Canada and the State of Maine, and has presented an elaborate 
 Repoi't on this subject. 
 
if* J 
 
 99 
 
 ing some government appointment in this city, havinff been 
 selected to examine into the mineral wealth of those remote 
 portions of the United States, which are regarded as the com- 
 mon property of the Confederacy. He was obliginff enough to 
 accompany me to the Capitol, where he shewed me over its 
 vanous parts, and introduced me to several of the members of 
 Congress whom we happened to fall in with. I have already 
 remarked, that the general effect of the building itself is im- 
 posing and grand, but when you come to analyse its parts, 
 defects begin to be perceived, as in the disproportionate size 
 of the dome. Seen from within, the rotunda has a noble 
 effect, though it is injured by the nakedness of the walls, half 
 of which is occupied merelv by the frames of pictures intend- 
 ed hereafter to be placed there, the other half by four speci- 
 mens cjF Col. Trumbull's pencil relating to the revolutionary 
 war. 1 hey are the fac-similes of those paintings of his I saw 
 at Newhaven, only on an enlarged scale. Though with many 
 defects, they possess an interest, as reminiscences of scenes fflo- 
 nous m the annals of the United States, and as faithful portraits 
 of the men who figured at the stirring period of their revolu- 
 tion. I greatly preferred however the Cabinet Pictures, which 
 I saw in the Newhaven gaUery. The four other compartments 
 on the walls are left vacant, owing to disputes as to the subjects 
 to be represented. Jackson's friends wished the exploits of 
 their hero to be there commemorated— his opponents would 
 hear of no such thing, and so the spaces remain unoccupied. 
 Perhaps in these matters the rule of the Romish church is a 
 good one— not to camnke a saint till a century has elapsed since 
 his death. Unless peace-principles should happily predomi- 
 nate to a greater degree than past experience justifies us in anti- 
 cipating, a century can hardly pass away without furnishing the 
 Americans with better subjects for their pencil, than such a 
 victory as that of New Orleans. 
 
 The House of Representatives is a handsome semi-circular 
 room, m the area of which the members sit, whilst the gallery 
 18 reserved for strangers. It does not appear to be well adapted 
 for hearing. The Senate House is about one half its size, also 
 semi-ci.rcular, and very elegant, as it appeared to me, in its pro- 
 portions. The Library is a comfortable room, containing a good 
 collection of modern books. I afterwards called on Mr. Fox our 
 minister, at four o'clock, and not finding him up, proceeded to 
 Mr. teatherstonehaugh's, with whom I dined, at half-past five 
 a late hour for this country. 
 
 Wednesday, 3rd — Tn the morning called and presented my 
 
 - ..,. , ,„, ,,„, vu, rriiw ic;.exvcu liii; punieiy. ue is a man 
 
 ot gentlemanlike and mild manners, but in no respect striking in 
 
 K 2 
 
 A't 
 
h. 
 
 100 
 
 his physiognomy or conversation. You see nothing in either 
 which would mark him out at first sight as a fit person to be 
 selected for the first magistrate of the United States. I after- 
 wards walked to the Capitol, took the place, which had been 
 kmdly given me through the good offices of Mr. Featherstone- 
 haugh, in the Senate House, and heard Mr. Calhoun bring 
 forward his resolutions respecting the anti-slavery petitions*. 
 
 * These resolutions seem worth noting down, as being so characteristic 
 
 of the feelings of the Southern people respecting the institution of 
 
 slavery — they are as follows: — 
 
 Resolved :— That in the adoption of the Federal constitution, the 
 
 states adopting the same, acted, severally, as free, independent, and 
 
 sovereign states, and that each, for itself, by its own voluntary 
 
 assent, entered the Union with the view to its increased security 
 
 against all dangers, domestic as well as foreign, and the more per. 
 
 feet and secure enjoyment of its advantages, natural, political, and 
 
 social. 
 
 Resolved :— That in delegating a portion of their powers to be 
 exercised by the Federal government, the states retained seve. 
 rally, the exclusive and sole right over their own domestic insti- 
 tutions and police, and are alone responsible for them, and that 
 any intermeddling of any one or more states, or a combination of 
 their citizens, with the domestic institutions and police of the 
 others, on any one or more grounds, or under any pretext what- 
 ever, political, moral, or religious, with the view to their altera- 
 tion, or subversion, is an assumption of superiority not warranted 
 by the constitution, insulting to the states interfered with, tending 
 to endanger their domestic peace and tranquillity, subversive of the 
 objects for which the constitution was ibrmed, and by necessary 
 consequence, tending to weaken and destroy the union itself. 
 
 Resolved :— That this government was instituted and adopted by 
 the several states of the union, as a common agent, in order to 
 carry into effect the powers which they had delegated by the 
 constitution for their mutual security and prosperity ; and that, 
 in fulfilment of this high and sacred trust, this government is 
 bound so to exercise its powers, as to give, as far as may be prac- 
 ticable, increased stability and security to the domestic institutions 
 of the states that compose the union ; and that it is the solemn 
 duty of the government, to resist all attempts by one portion of 
 the union, to use it as an instrument to attack the domestic insti- 
 tutions of another, or to weaken or destroy such institutions, 
 instead of strengthening and upholding them, as it is in duty 
 bound to do. 
 
 Resolved :_That domestic slavery, as it exists in the southern 
 and western states of this union, composes one important part of 
 their domestic institutions inherited from their ancestors, and ex- 
 isting at the adoption of the constitution, by which it is recog- 
 nised as constituting an essential element in the distribution of its 
 powers among the states ; and that no change of opinion, or feei- 
 
101 
 
 His speech was concise, as he carefully guarded him«elf 
 agams entering into the general merits of tL question-he t 
 evidentlv however a clear and powerful speaker, apparmtll 
 straightforward, and certainly very decided. ^ There wff Sel 
 something no a httle dictatorial in his manner, together Wth a 
 kind of m.pitience at opposition, a look of defiance^ and author! 
 
 of OhT?'?^^ '.^ ^"?'^''" ™^""^''« ^"d education. Mr. Morris 
 of Ohio followed. I approved of his views respecting the riSt 
 of petition, but cannot praise his oratory. ^ ^ 
 
 Thursday 4th.-~In the morning called on Mr. Leear^ of 
 
 aftemardTvrn^^"'''.' p"^"^^^^^^^ *^^^"*' ^"^ goXnse 
 atterwards vvent over to Georgetown, a large, straggling and 
 
 dirty suburb ; and then attended the meeting atThe Senate 
 
 House, where the same question as that of yeLrday was s?m 
 
 Mr. Calhoun's resolutions, and was discussing, whether ^t 
 would do right in pledging itself to endeavouf to gte i«. 
 
 i^S'^.-^r'^ ^^*\^ ?'^^^ '*^*^« «^ the union in relation to it 
 can justify them or their citizens in open and systematic attacks 
 thereon, with a view to its overthrow and that^^Tuch attacks 
 
 Z'l^7fV''^f'r' '^'. '""^"^^ ^"d solemn pSge to pro 
 tect and defend each other, given by the states respectively on 
 entenng mto the constitutional compact, which LS the union 
 and as such is a manifest breach of faith, and a violation of the 
 most solemn obligations, moral and religious. 
 Resolved :-That the intermeddling of any state or states or 
 their citizens to abolish slavery in this district, or any <,f the 'ter- 
 
 ^XlfJ^'T?^' *''*' ""'^" '^^ *h«^ «*^*«« ^^sts on an equality of 
 rights and advantages among its members ; and that whatever 
 
 ft T/hV '^"'5'^' ''f^f' ^'''^'^y the "nion itself; and thai 
 us the solemn duty of all, and more especially of this bodv • 
 
 rttemntXH-"'"'^-' ''^'f ^" '^''' corporatrcapacity,toresisraU 
 npt^nf M ^'^'^""^'"^te between the states in extending the be- 
 thU Li f government to the several portions of the union; and 
 that to refuse to extend to the southern and western states any 
 advantage which would tend to strengthen or render them more 
 new'Sr^'..""'"^'??"' ^'""'l' ''' population by the annexation of 
 fnsTit ?t7n ^1 ''^*''' '''' .'^' a?sumption or the pretext that the 
 STorn^^ •'^''^' "'.'' '^^'*' ^'"^"S them, is immoral or 
 sintul or otherwise obnoxious, would be contrary to that equality 
 of rights and advantages which the constitution was intended to 
 SarS' to_all the members of the union, and would, in effect! 
 cli.tranchisc' uiu slaveholuuig states, withholding from them the 
 
 .ernmeiT' """^^""'"^ '^'"^ "^ '^'' ^'"^^^"^ «^ the go! 
 
 G ». 
 
102 
 
 creased stability and security to such a domestic institmion 
 as that of slavery. ITiis the member for Ohio objected to, 
 ^]^ough he was willing to stand neuter on such a question. 
 Another amendment was then proposed, which seemed only cal- 
 culated to pass a bitter sarcasm upon the institution of slavery in 
 a country calling itself free. It was to the effect, that the por- 
 tion of their Declaration of Independence, which sets forth "that 
 all men were born equal," should be tacked on to the Resolution 
 engaging to uphold slavery. To this Mr. Calhoun was willing 
 (as I understood him) to accede, but then the debate branched 
 out, as is the custom, into many collateral discussions, which 
 prevented any settlement of the main jjoint at the time I left the 
 house. The question seemed to be, " has Congress under any 
 circumstances the right to interfere in the domestic institutions 
 of a state ?" The orator contended that it has— for example, it 
 can and does decree, that a slaveholder may recover his runaway 
 negro in a free state, and on the other hand, that if a slave-state 
 were to attempt to punish an aboUtionist for sentiments uttered 
 m a free state. Congress should afford him redress. To my \in- 
 utterable surprise, this latter position was denied by Mr. Preston, 
 the senator from South Carolina, who affirmed the right of 
 a state to make such a law, and thus by implication justified the 
 lawless proceedings of the Lynchers towards the abolitionists*. 
 The same orator threw down the gauntlet of defiance to the 
 North m no very measured terms. He told the senate, that if 
 justice was not done to the Southern States, the latter were ready 
 and able to take care of themselves, for that they scorned the 
 idea of receiving protection from the Union. Mr. Preston is 
 a powerful and impassioned orator, and one of the most gentle- 
 manlike looking men in the house. 
 
 Friday, 5th.— There was a little rain in the morning, but 
 afterwards the day became as beautiful as that preceding it. I 
 went to the senate in time to hear Mr. Calhoun and Mr. Clay 
 express themselves on the Canadian question, which was brought 
 before the house by a message from the president, praying that 
 laws should be enacted of a more stringent nature, to prevent the 
 interference of the people with the concerns of other nations. 
 Mr. Clay is a remarkably plea^ng speaker, pleasing I mean in 
 his manner and utterance; his speech was not long enough to 
 enable me to estimate his other merits. 
 
 After this, the Resolutions were again brought up for discus- 
 sion, but the remarks they elicited were of a less interesting 
 character than on the day preceding, and were only important 
 as evmcmg the very strong feeling prevailing against slavery in 
 
 ^ * By parity^of reasoning, the emperor of Russia would have the 
 light to punish ail Engllishnian visiting his dowinions for sentiments, 
 reflecting on absolute monarchy uttered when at home. 
 
103 
 
 the North—a feeling to which the senators from that quarter of 
 the Union feel themselves unable to run counter. As yet, no one 
 in that assembly avows himself an abolitionist, yet the tone of 
 the members from Ohio evidently implies, either that thev are 
 inclined to be so, or that they feel it prudent not to offend those 
 who are embued with such sentiments. 
 
 Saturday, 6th. What splendid weather ! bright, genial, and mUd 
 Actinometer at 1 2 o'clock mounted up to 13 deg., tie highest point 
 yet noted. Went as usual to the senate, and heard a continuation 
 of the same discussions with respect to Calhoun's resolutions. 
 Mr Morris of Ohio, in a lengthy and rambUng speech, replete 
 with furious gesticulations, made at least one good hit in noticinff 
 Mr. Freston s startling declaration mentioned above, asking 
 whether or not he had rightly understood him. No answer was 
 returned, from which it may, I hope, be inferred, that the proposi- 
 tion was regarded even by its author as indefensible. Mr. Calhoun 
 spoke as usual /o the point. Mr. Niles of Connecticut got up 
 and addressed the house for half an hour. He is a low, mean- 
 looking person, who owes his position purely to his radicalism. 
 How singular, that the electors of the enlightened state of Con- 
 necticut should appoint a senator of his caUbre to represent them f 
 How humiliating it must be to them, to see the miserable fiffure 
 he cuts by the side of such men as Webster and Calhoun ' The 
 best speech of the day was that of Mr. Davis of Massachusetts 
 —It was lucid and ingenious, and shewed very plainly the in- 
 expediency of agitating a question of this exciting character, as 
 has been done by introducing the Resolutions. It appeared from 
 the statement of members, that abolition societies were in- 
 creasmg m number rapidlv. At present about 1500 exist, and 
 they average perhaps one hundred members each. The third re- 
 solution was at length carried. 
 
 kSwiT'p ^'- {^'^n ^' ^^ "\'* *^^^^ ^ol«nel Preston, 
 Kendall the Postmaster General, and three or four more persons 
 
 ot distinction. A supenor tone of manners prevailed, and for 
 
 the farst time smce I have been in America I heard Mrs. Trol- 
 
 ope s work commended. These Southerners evidently regard 
 
 themselves a different class of people from the New Englanders 
 
 who have peopled Cincinnati, and therefore feel in no decree 
 
 personally aggrieved by the satirical remarks which this lady 
 
 nas made on the manners of such a remote region. 
 
 One remarkable feature in the United States, I may remark 
 
 IS the absence of that class of novelists, who assume the office of 
 
 satirizmg the folhes, and holding up to ridicule the peculiarities, 
 
 ot the nation to which their works relate*. It would seem, as 
 
 * Miss Sedcrwick. in hfir ftflmirnhlp IJnle tlliis T*Tra T .- -o T» . 
 
 m Her Three Lxperiments on Living, Mrs. Gilman, in her Portraiture 
 
^U4* 
 
 't4^' 
 
 104 
 
 if public opinion, more despotic than law, exercised a most 
 rigid censorship over such matters. Hence the demand for 
 that description of writings, which must exist in every civilized 
 community, is supplied by writers from the Old Countrj', who 
 have executed for brother Jonathan a useful, though I fear ra- 
 ther a thankless office, and are perhaps read with the greatest 
 avidity by the very persons who are most eager to abuse them. 
 
 Sunday, 7th.— Day still warmer and brighter than the pre- 
 ceding. Went to the Capitol at eleven, and heard in the House 
 of Representatives the service performed by a New England 
 Methodist, who gave us a sermon, which some might call im- 
 pressive, but which was so full of sins against taste, so dis- 
 figured by the vulgarity of the preacher's manner and by the 
 violence of his gesticulations, that whatever it might contain of 
 good, lost all its effect upon my mind. The points which ap- 
 peared to me rather unusual from a pulpit were: ist, the 
 quotations from profane poets ; 2ndly, the frequent allu- 
 sions to modern discoveries and men of science, to astronomy, 
 chemistry, electromagnetism, Newton, Sir H. Davy, &c.; 3rdly, 
 the almost personal addresses to his auditors — to you sir — and 
 to you madam. 
 
 Dined with Mr. Fox, our minister, and met there Mr. Poin- 
 sett, the Secretary of War, Mr. Featherstonehaugh, and Mr. Mac- 
 intosh. Glad to find so good a disposition expressed by Ame- 
 ricans of weight and influence with respect to Canada. Mr. Poin- 
 sett did not hesitate to designate the people assembled at Navy 
 Island as pirates, and to wish them treated as such. 
 
 Monday, 8th.— In the morning went to the House of Repre- 
 sentatives, where a very warm debate on the subject of Canada 
 was going on. One orator, after threatening war to vindicate 
 the iiational honor, and descanting in vehement terms on the 
 atrocity of the steam-boat capture, ended by admitting that they 
 had as yet no facts to build upon. Came away with no wish to 
 exchange my seat in the senate-house for one in this assembly. In 
 the former, I have »ee» nothing like disorderly conduct, or want 
 of decorum, in the midst of all th£ vehemence called forth by the 
 slavery discussion, and in one respect am sensible of a superior- 
 
 of Southern manners, have touched with a gentle hand upon some of 
 the vices and foibles incident to those states of society which exist in the 
 several portions of the United States, hut their general aim seems to he 
 to reform the national character, rather by exhibiting models of what 
 is good, than by holding up to ridicule that which requires reform, as 
 is attempted to be done in the class of publications to which I have re- 
 ferred in the text.. 
 
105 
 
 ity in its proceedings over those of our own Houses of Parlia- 
 ment ; namely, in the patience with which the assembly endures 
 the endless rejjetitions of the orators. In the House of Repre- 
 sentatives, on the other hand, I have seen enough during my 
 short visit to convince me, that the complaints made against the 
 personality and blackguardism exhibited by some of its mem- 
 bers are not exaggerated. 
 
 Dined at Col. Abert's, and met there Judge Garland, a Vir- 
 ginian, Cien. Macolm, a jolly, good-tempered, and inteUigent 
 officer, Mr. Featherstonehaugh, and Mr. Wyse. Went after- 
 wards to a party at Mrs. Woodbury's, which proved a grand 
 squeeze. It was well enough for a little time to see the various 
 persons assembled, as Mr. Woodbury, being Secretary to the 
 Ireasury, invites everybody. The men greatly predominated, 
 but there were young ladies enough for quadrilles, the latter 
 in the extreme of European fashion, and, in spite of American 
 prudery, exhibiting quite as great an exposure of the person, 
 for those who were not dancers, the party, after a short time, 
 presented no particular interest, so that at eleven o'clock I took 
 my leave, having resisted the invitation given me to go to a 
 similar gathering of the fashion of Washington at Mr. Forsyth's. 
 
 Tuesday, pth.— Went to the senate, and heard a very interest- 
 ing debate on the subject of Mr. Calhoun's fourth resolution, 
 respecting the abolition of slavery in the district of Columbia. 
 Ihis day all the speakers were good, viz. Mr. Pierce of N. Hamp- 
 shire, Mr. Cnttenden of Kentucky, Mr. Calhoun, and above all 
 Mr. Uay Let no one sav that the Americans are destitute of ora- 
 tors, till he has heard the latter, who possesses an urbanity of 
 manner, an appearance of warm and expansive philanthropy, a 
 trankness and persuasiveness, which combine to render the 
 ettect of his reasoning almost irresistible. His diction is well- 
 chosen, his voice musical, his flow of words easy and unembar- 
 rassed, and, what is unusual in the American senate, a dash of 
 pleasantry here and there is thrown in to relieve the dryness of 
 the discussions into which he enters. Above all, there was an 
 air ot candour, a mildness and deference towards his opponents, 
 which formed a very pleasing contrast to the brow-beating and 
 dictatorial manner of Mr. Calhoun. It was altogether the highest 
 treat 1 have experienced since reaching Washington, 
 r 1 aI f \Mr. Featherstonehaugh's, and met Gen. Macolm, 
 Col. Abert, Mr Nicollet, and Mr. Macintosh. In the evening 
 went to Mr Gilpm's, the Secretary of the Treasury, whose wife 
 and sister I found very agreeable people, and much more con- 
 yersible than most of the ladies I have met. Animal magnetism 
 18, 1 hnd from them, called in by the saints in this country to 
 -_,-^— , .iw v.«vv*«iu ui i,ne iumiateiiulicy oi ine soul, and is even 
 
106 
 
 supposed by them to be a providential gift specially imparted, 
 in order to dispel the cloubts of a sceptical age on thia 
 subject ! ! 
 
 Wednesday, loth. — Day bright and fine, though rather colder 
 than the preceding one. Spent the morning in the senate, 
 listening to the debates relative to Calhoun's fourth resolution. 
 Clay proposed an amendment, which he regarded as more con- 
 ciliatory than the original motion, and he maintained his supe- 
 riority in argument, as on the day preceding. Mr. Hubbard 
 of New Hampshire, and Mr. King of Alabama spoke well, Cal- 
 houn with his usual directness and vehemence. Webster con- 
 tended against that part of the resolution, which asserted that 
 the abolition of slavery in the district of Columbia would be a 
 breach of faith to the states that ceded it to Congress. I did not 
 think however that he was happy in the line he chose. Mr. Bu- 
 chanan of Pensylvania spoke better than from the heaviness of 
 his appearance I had supposed him capable of doing. Calhoun 
 indulged in a kind of eloge on slavery, as one of the very best of 
 civil institutions, benefiting both the White and the African, but 
 chiefly the latter. It is surprising to see the complacency with 
 which the members from non-slave-holding states listen to these 
 monstrous propositions. They seemed to be afraid to enter on 
 this topic, for the question havmg been opened, it would, I con- 
 ceive, have been quite in order for a northern member to have 
 spoken on the opposite side. At length, after several divisions 
 and much verbal dispute, the senate agreed to accept Clay's 
 amendment, and to throw out Calhoun's original proposition. 
 
 Dined at Mr. Poinsett's, the Secretary of War, and met the 
 minister of Cuba, Monsr. Tacon, Mr. Featherstonehaugh, Mr. 
 Legare, and others. Young Tacon is just on the point of being 
 married to a young and beautiful American lady, to the great 
 annoyance nevertheless of his aristocratical father, the governor 
 of Cuba. 
 
 Thursday, nth. — Went to the senate, and heard a long dis- 
 cussion on the subject of Mr. Clay's amendment to Calhoun's 
 fourth resolution respecting the territories. The best speaker of 
 the day was Mr. Rives of Virginia, who was clear, logit al, and 
 straightforward. Col. Preston, as before, hinted at ultevio^ Plea- 
 sures being requisite, the present resolutions beinglil :; • ieaJ 
 to nothing. Mr. Clay as usual preached conciliation. Calhoun 
 would hear of no compromise. Mr. Buchanan of Pensylvania 
 represented, that the resolutions were framed to meet the interests 
 of the South, a ground which Calhoun rejected with indignation. 
 At length the Resolution as amended by Clay passed, if I am 
 rightly inf.;?". .«jd, by a large majority. 
 
 ',f:-'h 
 
107 
 
 And here terminate my notes on the proceedings m the senate 
 house durmg my short stay at Washington. Unlike what 
 might be expex'ted from so practical a people, they bear more 
 resemblance, if J may judge by this specimen of them to the 
 discussions of a debating club, than to the dehbcrations of the 
 councd of a great nation, relating to abstract general proposi- 
 tions, which have no immediate or direct influence unor the 
 conduct of affairs. ^ 
 
 This peculiarity arises in great measure from the circumstance, 
 that Congress has its powers in fact greatly abridged by the 
 state-legislatures, and I may add, is doubtless promoted bv the 
 practice of remunerating the Members of both Houses, not bv 
 an yearly stipend, but by a certain sum for each day that the 
 session lasts. Accordingly, the work gone through seemed at 
 this tirre not to be very onerous, commencing about twelve 
 and being brought to a close always before their dinner hour 
 which 18 usually four. * 
 
 r/ithout waiting the termination of these lengthy debates on 
 Mr. Calhoun s resolutions, which had continued with httle in- 
 termission during my whole stay at Washington, I packed ud 
 my portmanteau, having carefully extracted from its contents 
 aU the works relating to slavery which I had brought thus far 
 and amongst the rest Miss Martineau's volumes— for althousrh 
 the gallantry of the Southern people prevented them from lynch* . 
 mg the authoress herself, I did not know how it might fare 
 vyith the hapless wight who should carry with him her lucubra- 
 tions. ITus done, I took my leave of Washington, carryinff 
 with me many pleasant recollections of its residents, but a very 
 confused one of its plan and outline, and embarking on the 
 night of Thursday, the nth of January, on board the steamer 
 which was to convey me down the river as far as Potomac creek. 
 Landing there at nine o'clock, I proceeded by a stage to Frede- 
 nckburg, over eleven miles of an execrable road, and then by 
 a railroad, for a distance of about sixty miles, to Richmond. 
 The road lay chiefly through a « pine barren," and presented 
 httle of interest. The country was thinly peopled, and the 
 houses, such as they were, slovenly and dUapidated. At Rich- 
 mond I found the legislature sitting, and with some difficultv 
 got a bedroom at ** Virginia House." ' 
 
 Saturday morning, 13th.— Called on bishop Moore, a fine old 
 gentleman, with long white hair, like another Latimer, who of 
 his own accord introduced the subject of abolition. I was I 
 confess, anxious to hear what would be said on such a topic by 
 one, who is, I know, highly respectable, and I fully believe to be 
 benevolent and religious. His mode of dealing with it, shewed 
 now long habit reconciles to things, which seem irreconcilable 
 with the first principles of the doctrine, which by virtue ofTis 
 
108 
 
 sacred office, lie inculcates. The bishop dwelt upon the physical 
 comfort and happiness which the negroes of Virginia according 
 to him enjo3% without one word of regret with respect to their 
 moral degradation ; he spoke of the certainty of an abolitionist 
 in the South being lynched, not indeed as a thing he approved, 
 but without any exjjression of moral indignation. 
 
 Went afterward to take a view of the town, which stands in an 
 imposing position, on an eminence above James' River, which is 
 of great breadth, but very shallow, and obstructed by stones. A 
 little island hes in the centre of the stream, which is thickly 
 wooded. This is the most northern city, in the neighbourhood 
 of which I have recognised evergreen shrubs occurring in 
 abundance as in England, a striking proof of the rigour of the 
 American winter even to a low latitude. From a French gentle- 
 man, Monsr. Chevalier, who has resided many years in Rich- 
 mond, I obtained the copy of a meteorological journal kept by 
 him, of which the following are the results : 
 Average of fourteen years, viz. from 1824 to 1837 : — 
 
 Winter ,. .. 41.18 
 
 Spring .. ,. 64^54 
 
 Summer .. ., 73.38 
 
 Autumn .. .. 48^27 
 
 Whole year . . . . 56.84 * 
 The neighbourhood seems to be interesting and picturesque, so 
 far as I could judge by the coup d'ceil obtained from the Capitol. 
 This building is the state-house, containing rooms for the legis- 
 lature to assc*:nble in, and for various other uses. It is in the 
 Grecian style, with an Ionic portico in front, the entablature and 
 cornice of which are of wood. The building looks mean when 
 we are close to it, being of brick, covered with plastfer, but at 
 a distance the general r^ect is good. In it is a statue of 
 Washington, by Gaudon, a Frenchman j it is said to be a good 
 likeness, but did not impress me very favourably — I believe I 
 took exception to his dress,— the coat, hat, and Hessians. The 
 building being placed on the brow of the hill on which the city 
 is built, is seen conspicuously at a distance, and is the first object 
 that prominently strikes the eye. As for the town itself, it is 
 the place of the greatest consequence in Virginia, and con- 
 tains some good houses, but the meanness of those in the 
 smaller streets and in the suburbs tells us, that we are now in a 
 slave state. There is an air of negligence about the people and 
 all that belongs to them, which reminds me rather of Italy than 
 of free America. But what freedom ! where half the population 
 are slaves, and the other half dare not express their sentiments 
 except in conformity to the opinion of the majority*. Dined 
 
 * My servant mentioned to me a fact v/hich startled his English 
 feelings considerably. Amongst the persons assembled in the room 
 
109 
 
 m company with Mr. Vandenhoff the actor, and met some Vir- 
 ginians ; they reminded me of rough EngUsh country gentle- 
 men, of the old school, good tempered, fond of good livinff 
 and not particularly intellectual. 
 
 Drank tea with bishop Moore, who appeared to me, on further 
 acquaintance, a very agreeable, as well as a very venerable old 
 man, with his hearing and all his faculties entire, notwith- 
 standing his advanced age. He told me, that he regarded him- 
 self in some sense as a British subject, having resided at New 
 York at the Mme of the breaking out of the rebellion. He spoke 
 with great ; ffection of Old England, and mentioned the great 
 concern he entertained at the time of Napoleon, lest it should be 
 crushed, contemplating it, not merely with a sentiment of fihal 
 regard, but with a still deeper feeling of interest, as the main 
 stay of Christianity. 
 
 I asked him about the state of the episcopal church in his dio- 
 cese. He told me, that when he first came there only two 
 churches existed, but that there are now fifty, and one hun- 
 dred and fifty congregations, which, if we reckon three hundred 
 persons to each, would imply, that between forty and fifty 
 thousand episcopalians were to be found in Virginia alone. 
 
 . am surprised, that amongst the many writers on America 
 no one has undertaken to furnish us in detail with the statistics 
 ot the episcopalian church, as has been done by Mattheson and 
 Keed with regard to those of other denominations. The progress 
 episcopacy has made since the revolution in the United States is 
 certainly highly satisfactory, when one considers the disadvan- 
 tages against which it had to contend, from the connexion sup- 
 posed to subsist between an attachment to tlie church and to 
 the sovereign of the mother country. Owing to this circum- 
 stance, it seemed to be virtually extinguished at tlie time of the 
 revolution and was adhered to, with almost as much secresy 
 and hazard, as prelacy was in the time of the commonwealth 
 
 Its resuscitation is a proof of, what might before have appear- 
 ed problematical, namely, the compatibility of episcopal govern- 
 ment with repubhcan institutions, and thus, so far as it goes 
 tends to shew, that the primitive form of church government 
 was designed for perpetuity. 
 
 where he dined vvas a very pretty girl, the waiting-maid, as he under- 
 stood to one of the ladies at the boarding house, with blue eves, and a 
 complexion almost perfectly fair. To his surprise, she dined by heiself 
 at a separate table. On inquiring the reason, he was told she was a 
 s ave. As slavery is transmitted from the mother, it is very possible 
 that m three or four generations the traces of black blood mav be almost 
 "WitcraDCu, wnilst the rigiit of the master ovei- the progeny remains 
 
110 
 
 Another circumstance, which may be viewed with satisfaction 
 by a member of an endowed church, is, that the respectabiUty 
 and apparent effectiveness of the episcopal church in different 
 parts of the union, seemed, even by the confession of the Ame- 
 ricans themselves, to bear some proportion to the emoluments 
 received by the ministers, and the degree of their independence 
 on their congregations. Nowhere is the episcopal ministry so 
 efficient as at New York, and nowhere is it so well endowed — in- 
 deed an American friend once observed to me, " We have no 
 objection to an endowed church, however much we may protest 
 against an established one." 
 
 I think too, that a more extended intercourse with the Ame- 
 rican clergy, would in some respects be calculated to operate 
 beneficially upon those of oi.r own country. 
 
 They would at least see amongst their brethren in the New 
 World, (it may be said, indeed, from the peculiarities of their 
 position,) high church views, united with tolerant sentiments 
 towards other communions — a just sense of their own privileges, 
 without any want of charity towards Christians of a different 
 creed — an uncompromising adherence to their own principles on 
 matters of religion, without any repugnance to cordial and friendly 
 intercourse with those beyond their own pale. 
 
 These impressions, as to the members of the American church, 
 have been suggested, indeed, by my conversation with bishop 
 Moore, but were taken up before, in consequence of my inter- 
 course with other clergymen, as for instance. Dr. Wainwright of 
 Boston, Professor Mac Vickar of New York, Dr. Delancey of 
 Philadelphia, and amongst laymen, by what I saw of my worthy 
 friend Mr. Nicklin. 
 
 Sunday, Jan. 14th. — Went to the episcopal church, built on 
 the site formerly occupied by the theatre, which was burnt down 
 in 181 1, with the loss of seventy-two lives. It is called in con- 
 sequence the Monumental Church. 
 
 I there heard the bishop read prayers, and another clergy- 
 man preach. The latter was not wanting in argumentative 
 powers, but sadly deficient in grace of manner; he was the first 
 extempore episcopalian I had heard in America, and certainly 
 the want of method in his sermon evinced that such was the 
 case. Yet he was far from a ranter. Dined with a Dr. Trent, 
 whom I had met casually at the bishop's on the preceding even- 
 ing. We talked about the right of primogeniture — it exists to 
 this extent in Virginia, namely, that the eldest son will have the 
 mansion-house which his father occupied left to him, over and 
 above his share in the rest of the property, and that the daugh- 
 ters have a smaller portion of it than the sons. The assurances of 
 attachment to England, which I so often receive, surprise as 
 
Ill 
 
 well as gratify me, seeming to shew, that although the Jacobi- 
 nical party under Jefferson might have turned the tide of feel- 
 ing for a while in the contrary direction, it now has reverted to 
 its old channel. The very sensitiveness to British criticism? 
 proves that such is the case. Mrs. Trollope seems to enjoy a 
 sort of immortaUty in the breasts of the Americans. She may 
 indeed have written over her tomb, like old Ennius :— 
 
 Nemo me lachiymis decoret, nee fimera fletu 
 Faxit : cur ? volito vivus per ora virum. 
 
 Had a dispute with a gentleman at the boarding-house on the 
 subject ot slavery. He contended, that Mr. Calhoun's proposi- 
 tions, which I quoted to him, were defensible ; the negroes, he 
 said, were happier than the whites would be, if they undertook 
 the same menial offices, which, by their degrading effect upon 
 the mmd, would render the latter unfit to exercise the functions 
 of free men. He maintained, that this was in some degree the 
 case in the north, but that in a repubUcan government it would be 
 impossible to exclude any whites from an equal share of power, 
 and that for this reason it was improper that any of them should 
 act as menials. Hence the use of the negro*. He assured me, 
 that public feeling generally stepped in to prevent the separatiori 
 of families in Virginia, except where the effects of an estate were 
 sold to pay the debts of the owner. Then, to be sure, the hus- 
 band must be separated from his wife, if the latter happened to 
 belong to another property, and vice versa. I need not record 
 my arguments on the contrary side. 
 
 He spoke of the Union as of little importance to the South, 
 and contemplated its dissolution as an event neither distant nor 
 greatly to be deprecated. It would not necessarily lead to civil 
 war, and would benefit the South, by throwing the people more 
 on their own resources. I have sometimes thought, that ambi- 
 tious men in the South are making the most of this abolition 
 excitement, in order to wean the people from their attachment to 
 the Union, and thus to place themselves at the head of an inde- 
 pendent Republic. Time will shew. 
 In the same spirit, Mr. Rhett of South Carolina, in a speech 
 
 ' 'I 
 
 'II 
 
 surprise as 
 
 * I now begin to understand the reason of the facility with which 
 the manufacturers in the North obtain on such moderate terms a supply 
 of operatives, from a class of persons who would disdain such drudgery 
 in England. A farmer's daughter, who would feel herself degraded 
 by entering into service even in a respectable familv, submits to 
 employment of a ten-times more irksome nature at a mill, and thus 
 contributes to bring about the anomalous state of things, of a thinly 
 peopled country with plenty of good land, attaching more importance 
 to manufactures than to agriculture. 
 
 L 2 
 
 mm 
 
112 
 
 of his on the subject of abolition, which I have lately seen, 
 remarks as follows : 
 
 '* In the South, the labourer does not control the destinies of 
 the country. Every white man is there a privileged being. 
 
 " Selfishness and honour alike compel him to ally himself 
 with his race, and (whether he possesses property or not) to up- 
 hold the institutions in which, in fact, chiefly exists the property 
 of the country, whilst the very existence of slavery around him, 
 gives him a loftier tone of independence, and a higher estimate 
 of liberty. 
 
 "Let it be remembered," he continues, "that no republic 
 has ever yet been long maintained without the institution of 
 slavery. 
 
 " Nor are these United States a clear exception to this great 
 fact. Slavery does not exist, it is true, in the northern states j 
 but those states have been ever in intimate alliance with the 
 southern states, through whom its salutary influence has been 
 experienced. The South has been from its origin the balance- 
 wheel of the confederacy." 
 
 Again he remarks, " The southern states are destined to no 
 common fate in the history of nations — they will be amongst the 
 greatest and freest, or the most abject of nations." 
 
 " History presents no such combination for republican liberty 
 as that which exists amongst them; the African for the la- 
 bourer, the Anglo-Saxon for the master and ruler. Both races 
 will be exalted and benefited by the relation." 
 
 Monday morning, 15th. — I walked for some distance up 
 James' River, to see the rapids, which prevent its being navi- 
 gated for some distance above the city. The views of the water 
 
 * These sentiments, which were hinted by bishop Moore in mild and 
 cautious phraseology, I have heard from the lips of laymen, avowed in 
 a more vehement and offensive manner. Even the high reputation and 
 the purity of motive, which must be conceded to Dr. Channing, would 
 not exempt him from insult in the Southern States, and I have no 
 doubt that there are many places south of the Potomac, where he 
 would be torn to pieces, if he were to venture to shew himself. All 
 this is very bad, but still more trying perhaps to a sensitive mind, is the 
 reception which such sentiments meet with from the society in which he 
 has hitherto moved, and the estrangement which they are said to occa- 
 sion between himself and many of his former intimates and admirers. 
 
 Without being aware of the despotism of pul)lic opinion in America, 
 no one can duly estimate the merit of the sacrifices which Dr. Chan- 
 ning has made, in declaring himself an abolitionist, and in writing 
 those admirable pampiilets, which he has put forth, on the Annexation 
 of Texas, and on the subject of Slavery. 
 
113 
 
 roaring and foaming in its passage over its rocky bottom, and 
 interrupted m Its course by a number of finely wooded islands, 
 were beautiful even in the winter season, and must be much 
 more attractive in summer. 
 
 In the evening I started in the stage for Petersburg; in which 
 there were six passengers, besides a little negro boy who had been 
 just purchased. At the door of the stage stood the mother with 
 an intant m her arms, crying and sobbing ^vith all her might at 
 the parting, for, as the boy was to go at least a hundred miles oflf", 
 the separation was likely to be for ever, and of course no tidings 
 from one to the other could well be received, where neither 
 party could read nor write. The master of the little boy, who 
 was a sharp intelligent looking lad about twelve years old, 
 told me he had given 500 dollars for him, but that if he had 
 been put up to auction he would have fetched 600. He seemed, 
 judging trom his countenance and appearance, not likely to be a 
 very severe master and made out that the boy was quite pleased 
 go with him. I confess no signs of sorrow were apparent on 
 
 A .u^ l/^^^' ^''^^P* J"^* ^^^" he parted with his mother, 
 and then they were more on her side than on his. We arrived 
 at 10 clock at our destination, and for the first time since mv 
 arrival m America I found some difficulty in getting a separate 
 room, but at length succeeded in doing so. The inn was slo- 
 venly enough, and the provisions not over good. I had an 
 instance by the by of the light in which the negro race is held, 
 in the dark a person in the coach asked how many passengers 
 here were. Another answered six. I corrected him, stating 
 the number to be seven. « Oh !" rejoined the same who had 
 just spoken, you mean six men, and a little black snake," 
 alluding to the negro lad whom I had before mentioned, "but 
 we do nt reckon him m the number." 
 
 Tuesday morning, i6th -Started at nine o'clock by the rail-road 
 
 In ?""' % dis ance of about sixty miles. This, at the com- 
 
 mnrP "fW^'f u""^^ trayelUng, ought to have occupied no 
 
 Eni T ^2T' ^"^ '^ '^°^^^y ^'"^ ^« proceed, and so 
 dUatory was the whole management, that we had not arrived at 
 
 nnn/ f ^ V ^^'^'''^^''''' ^ill the eveuiug Here, after a short 
 pause for dinner, we were transferred, nine precious souls, into 
 the stage which was to carry us 160 miles further to the south. 
 
 tvLll L T "P^"" *^' r^^^" agreeable, beyond the usual 
 average of American coach passengers. It consisted of an 
 elderhr man from New Jersey, whose symmetry was a little im- 
 paired by a protuberance of his back and shonldpr^ no^^oR, 
 sated by a stoopmg forwards of his neck and head, but\vho 
 
 rnlLF""" '^M'"'^!^ '^'^T^ ^"^ ^^^^^^ ^^^11 expression of 
 countenance, which shewed that he was not a careless observer 
 
 
 I- 
 
114 
 
 of men and manners. There was then a gay and lively French- 
 man with moustache, proceeding to set up a cotton concern at 
 Charleston, for which he seemed not more fitted than the man in 
 the moon. He knew scarce a word of English, hut was quite 
 at home in Italian operas and French vaudevilles, the last sort 
 of knowledge which will avail him here. There was a friend of 
 his from Georgia, evidently of French extraction, and just re- 
 turned from a visit to Paris, uut with more of a business- 
 like character about him. There was an inteUigent and gen- 
 tlemanlike merchant, from Norfolk, Virginia, on his way to 
 New Orleans, who spoke French with perfect fluency, and 
 entered con amove into the Frenchman's views and feelings. 
 ITiere was a navy officer of the U. S. service, blunt and strong 
 built, like a John Bull, with handsome features, though with a 
 rather heavy expression of countenance. There was a young 
 man, who said not a word the whole way, and of whom there- 
 fore I have the less to report. There was myself, and my ser- 
 vant, exalted pro tempore into the character of my son, as I 
 learnt from my fellow passengers afterwards. And lastly there 
 was a Yankee engineer or tradesman, who might have passed 
 for the very personification of the New Englander. He knew 
 every thing and every body ; could tell us the exact weight of 
 ball which their great ship, the Pensylvania, projected at a 
 .single broadside : was present at her launching ; knew what fish 
 and fowl the rivers we passed contained, having fished and 
 gunned in them all; knew the history and merits of all the 
 cabinet ministers at Washington ; knew exactly what ought 
 to be done when a coach was overturned. At the first stage, 
 the habitual carelessness of the drivers in neglecting to stand by 
 their horses might have led to a terrible accident : a coach with 
 five passengers in it which met us, being upset, owing to the 
 horses which were harnessed to it galloping through a narrow 
 gate into a stable-yard, where the vehicle was turned over 
 upon a heap of luggage. We heard the noise occasioned 
 by the event, but before we could understand its nature, 
 our Yankee companion had disappeared. With the quickness 
 of lightning he opened the door of our stage, and jumped 
 out, — first satisfied himself, as he said, that our own horses 
 had some one to look after them — then ran up to the one 
 that had been upset, and arrived in time to extricate a lady, 
 who was lying in the carriage motionless, though more incapaci- 
 tated, I believe, by fright, than actual injury. The Yankee 
 was the first to assist the husband in carrying her into the 
 inn, where he felt her pulse, and having satisfied himself that 
 she had met with no serious blow, returned to tell us the result 
 of all these adventures. We were sorry to part with him a stage 
 or two beyond, though so cramped for space, that as a general 
 

 ^ely French- 
 i concern at 
 1 the man in 
 lit was quite 
 the last sort 
 ,s a friend of 
 and just re- 
 a business- 
 nt and gen- 
 
 his way to 
 [luency, and 
 nd feelings. 
 ; and strong 
 ough with a 
 ^as a young 
 ,vhora there- 
 in d my ser- 
 ly son, as I 
 
 lastly there 
 have passed 
 . He knew 
 ct weight of 
 ejected at a 
 ew what fish 
 
 fished and 
 ;s of all the 
 what ought 
 i first stage, 
 • to stand by 
 I coach with 
 wing to the 
 ;h a narrow 
 turned over 
 
 occasioned 
 
 its nature, 
 le quickness 
 and jumped 
 own horses 
 to the one 
 cate a lady, 
 )re incapaci- 
 rhe Yankee 
 ler into the 
 himself that 
 IS the result 
 him a stage 
 as a general 
 
 115 
 
 principle the room of a ninth passenger was felt to be far pre- 
 ferable to his company. 
 
 We journeyed on the whole of the night, and all the following 
 day, but about ten o'clock on the second night were permitted 
 to get some rest at the village of South Washington in North 
 Carolma. Here, though the, landlord said he had beds enough 
 for all the party, five only could be mustered in all the house • 
 this however, as it was expected that we should sleep two and two* 
 was considered ample accommodation. But, as Moore sings— ' 
 
 " Some cavillers 
 
 Object to sleep with fellow travellers," 
 so I preferred a sofa which I found in the parlour, and contrived 
 to pass the night there in tolerable comfort alone. The rest 
 managed as they could, and I beheve something like a separate 
 bed apiece was at length prepared for them, they not being, as it 
 happened, partial to the old American plan of bundling. The heat 
 of the day was very great, and it was not much mitigated at 
 night ; the close quarters therefore in which my fellow passengers 
 were packed proved very dissuasive of sleep. For myself I fared 
 better, having a large room down stairs, with only two fellows 
 in it besides, who were stretched upon a shake-down made up 
 for them extemporaneously on the floor. 
 
 In the morning we proceeded by the stage about twenty 
 miles farther, and then took advantage of the rail-road from 
 Wilmington to Hahfax, which was completed to a distance 
 of about twelve miles from the former place. We proceeded 
 on it with great rapidity, though, as I conceived, not without 
 some risk. In one part a causeway had been constructed over 
 a morass to a height of thirty or forty feet, and there was no 
 parapet of any kind to prevent the cars from being precipitated 
 into the depth below, if any obstacle had chanced to throw them 
 off the rail. We arrived at Wilmington about two o'clock. 
 
 With respect to the country through which we passed, 
 from Richmond, and indeed even from Washington, to Wil- 
 mington, the same character will apply to it all. The road was 
 cut through the midst of a pine forest, or pine barren, as it may 
 well be termed, since the soil consisted of a loose unproductive 
 sand, and the prevailing trees were, the Pinus t«da (loblolly 
 pme), and afterwards the Pinus austraUs, or palustris, (the long 
 leaved pine.) From the latter, turpentine is extracted b peeling 
 off a portion of the bark, and cutting away so much of the wood 
 at bottom, as will produce a cavity large enough to contain two 
 or three pints. Into this hollow the turpentine flows from the 
 parts above, leaving however a crust covering the exposed sur- 
 face, which miisf: from tirnp tn tirno ha ^citr>^%'r>A ;», or'^-i- ^1-=-^ 
 
 the process may go on. The turpentine is taken out of the 
 cavities or boxes into which it has flowed, and placed in barrels. 
 
 i) 
 
 _ " I" 
 
116 
 
 14' 
 
 f. 
 
 The trees certainly presented rather a forlorn aspect from being 
 thus denuded of their bark, and, I should think, must suffer 
 in consequence. 
 
 As we proceeded south, the ground became more swampy, 
 and consequently more and more adapted for MagnoUas, Aza- 
 leas,* and other evergreen shrubs. Between South Washington 
 and Wilmington especially they appeared in great luxuriance, 
 and in the spring must afford a rich harvest to the botanist. 
 Here also the trees were shaded with festoons of the Carolina 
 Moss, as it is improperly termed, the Tillandsia usnoides. 
 Its ashen colour, and delicately reticulated structure gave it the 
 appearance of bunches of grey hair streaming down from the 
 branches. We find it wherever the country is humid and 
 marshy. The route we passed along had the appearance of 
 great unhealthiness, yet hundreds of negroes were hired of their 
 masters to complete the rail-roe^d, which traverses this country, 
 and is to connect Richmond with Wilmington. Whites cannot 
 stand the climate. The road was in general heavy, lying 
 through sand, but otherwise did not seem bad, except m a few 
 places, where there certainly were holes deep enough to have 
 upset the stage. 
 
 On Thursday, i8th, at three o'clock, we embarked in the steam- 
 packet from Wilmington to Charleston. It was a new and 
 elegant vessel, strongly built, as I was assured, and capable 
 of moving through the water very rapidly. Nevertheless I was 
 not pleased with its construction for a sea-boat. Like those 
 which ply on the Hudson, it had a long cabin with a row of 
 windows on either side of it, erected above the upper deck, so 
 that in the latter the whole space was occupied by it, except 
 about three feet from the sides of the vessel. This cabin, 
 one should suppose, was too much exposed to the waves 
 of the sea for perfect security. The vessel was also made 
 more straight than is the case with our English steamers, 
 which navigate the Mediterranean. We met with some very 
 rough weather at night, and two or three times the sea struck 
 the vessel, of which one of the spars was broken. Owing to 
 this circumstance we did not reach Charleston till ten the next 
 morning. Thermometer plunged iato the sea rose to 57°; 
 whereas in the river below Wilmington it stood at ;5° j and at 
 Charleston at 54°, shewing the influence of the gulf stream upon 
 the ocean temperature. 
 
 On arriving at Charleston I seemed to have skipped over all 
 the intermediate months of winter, and to have reached at 
 once the freshness and genial warmth of the month of May. 
 The sun, on Friday, Jan. 19th, was shining bright, the air was 
 
 * Cerasua Caroliiiensis is one of the most common. 
 
• 
 
 117 
 
 mild and elastic, the grass growing in the streets, the birds singing 
 in the contiguous woods. But this delightful weather was not 
 to continue. Saturday was cold and bleak, Sunday resembled 
 a raw wet day in an English winter, and accordingly the ther- 
 mometer, which on Friday was 70% had sunk on Sunday to 
 40'.* ^ 
 
 Charleston itself is a respectable looking city, with indications 
 of wealth and refinement. The streets are in general straight 
 and of great length, meeting each other at right angles ; and 
 the want of uniformity in the architecture of the houses, in some 
 of which the porticos project in front, and extend into the street, 
 gives a reUef to the eye, when wandering along so extensive a line 
 of buildings, which is wanting in Philadelphia. The mansions 
 of the better class of inhabitants are generally surrounded by a 
 garden, occupied for the most part by evergreen shrubs and trees 
 —and in almost every street is an avenue of the Pride of India, 
 Melia Azederach, which at present indeed ofFers nothing to the 
 eye except bunches of yellow berries, but which when in leaf 
 and blossom is one of the most beautiful of trees. 
 
 An estuary divides the commercial part of the city from that 
 suburb in which most of the principal inhabitants reside. The 
 former at low water is merely a mass of mud, filthy and of- 
 fensive, but being overflowed by the tide, does not, it is said, 
 produce injurious effects on the health of the inhabitants. 
 Nor is Charleston itself an unwholesome jjlace, if we be- 
 lieve the natives, at any period of the year, except when 
 visited by yellow fever, and this only attacks new comers. 
 After a man has resided one entire year he is consiH^red com- 
 paratively safe, even if the disorder should visit the city. But 
 the neighbourhood, for thirty miles round, is universally ad- 
 
 * I could not obtain a register of the weather for many consecutive 
 years, but may give the following summary as the average of each 
 month during the years 1795, 1796, 1797, 1798, 1799, 1800, 180T ; 
 part of 1802 and 1828; the whole of 1829, 1830, 18^1, and to 
 November 1832 : — 
 
 December, mean of 1 1 years . 
 
 November 12 . . 
 
 October 12 . . 
 
 September 12 . . 
 
 August 12 . . 
 
 July 12 . . 
 
 June 12 . , 
 
 May 12 . . 
 
 April 12 . . 
 
 March, - ^ ,, = .=.. . 12 . . 
 
 February 12 . . 
 
 January 12 . . 
 
 52.3. 
 59.6. 
 68.0. 
 
 75-8. 
 80.3. 
 8f.i. 
 79.0. 
 74.0. 
 66.5. 
 
 54-5- 
 32.2. 
 
 r i; 
 
 !'i' 
 
118 
 
 mitted to be highly deleterious after the month of May; and 
 if a citizen of Charleston Bleeps a single night in that region, 
 or even travels through it after dark, he is liable to a ftver,' 
 which more generally terminates fatally. The most curious part 
 of the story is, that if a resident of Charleston sleeps a night in 
 the country, and then returns to the city, the fever is likely to 
 be more malignant, than it would have been, if he had con- 
 tinued to reside out of town, in the same unhealthy spot where 
 he had contracted the seeds of his complaint. 
 
 Charleston possesses a small Museum and a small Library, 
 neither of which however appeared well kept up. The Medical 
 College is on a respectalile footing, about 140 students resorting 
 to it, and one or two distinguished names appearing in the list 
 of Professors. Dr. Shepherd is regarded as a good mineralogist, 
 and he lectures on chemistry with clearness, ♦hough, from the 
 sample I had, he would seem to dwell too much on details, to the 
 neglect of general principles. Dr. Houlbrook, though rather 
 lazy and unmethodical, is evidently a superior man, and his 
 work on the Reptiles of North America is much praised. I 
 have not yet seen anything else very remarkable at Charleston, 
 resembling, as it does, most shipping ports in that portion which 
 is devoted to business, and containing no very striking public 
 buildings in other parts. Its winter climate, though subject to 
 great vicissitudes, is often most agreeable — Sunday and Mon- 
 day indeed were rainy and cold, and the houses, it must be con- 
 fessed, are ill-constructed for keeping out damp and frost, but 
 several of the days, during my stay, have been of a very delight- 
 ful temperature. 
 
 Wednesday, Jan. 25th. — I went out with Dr. Bachman, the 
 father-in-law to Audubon, and himself a good naturalist, on an 
 excursion to the neighbourhood of the city. About three miles 
 off we came to a wood, consisting chiefly of evergreen trees and 
 shrubs. The live oak, (quercus virens), wax myrtle (myrica 
 cerifica), loblolly pine (pinus taeda), the American holly (Ilex 
 opaca), the sweet gum (Hopea tinctoria), were the most common, 
 whilst more than one species of Smilax, and the American jas- 
 mine twined round the trunks and branches. Of the deciduous 
 trees, one of the largest and most common is Liquidambar sty- 
 raciflua, commonly called the gum-tree. But the most interesting 
 thing was to see the American missletoe (viscum verticillatum), 
 luxuriating upon the higher branches of the live oak, a tree which 
 it seems to prefer, whereas the English missletoe is seen upon 
 our oaks more rarely than upon any other species of tree, Its 
 berries are white, but smaller than ours; in other respects it 
 does not seem to differ from it. 
 
 Conversed with one of my acquaintances on the subject of 
 
 
119 
 
 duelling. He informed me of a fact, of which I was not before 
 aware, namely, that those who enrol themselves as communicants 
 of a church, of whatever denomination, are regarded in the same 
 light as the clergy are with us, that is, as renouncing the prac- 
 tice of duelling, so that no one would think of sending them a 
 challenge. Accordingly, one of their statesmen, Mr. Pinckney, 
 was accused of cowardice, merely because he had become a 
 communicant, it being said by his enemies, that he had made 
 that profession, in order in an indirect manner to exempt himself 
 from the consequences of being brought into hostile collision 
 with persons of the opposite side. 
 
 If this rule generally prevails, I doubt whether it does not do 
 more harm than good to the cause of religion and morality. No 
 one indeed can doubt, that a person who shall out of revenge kill 
 his opponent in a duel, is guilty of murder; but it may be pos- 
 sible for a man to be placed, without any fault of his own, under 
 such circumstances, as to be driven to accept, and even to send 
 a challenge, simply to defend his honor, as another may be led 
 to take avvay a highwayman's life, to defend his property. If the 
 latter act is justifiable, the former would seem to be so also, and 
 even granting that it were not, every one, engaged in public 
 life, in a country like America, must feel, that he may be 
 placed in a position, in which the provocation would be too 
 great to be resisted. To say therefore that no one is to be 
 admitted to communion, unless he has made up his mind, that 
 he will under no circumstances accept a duel, must do more 
 injury to the cause of religion by limiting the number of com- 
 municants, than good by decreasing that of duellists. My re- 
 marks however are only applicable to duelling, as it is com- 
 monly practised. In the South, it appears from all accounts, 
 to be often carried on in a different way from what prevails in 
 other countries, including even the northern parts of the Union. 
 If the rifle fails in bringing down one of the combatants, they 
 both set to with their bowie knives, and hack and mangle each 
 other about in a most barbarous manner. My informant added, 
 that Southern men are in general not much burdened with 
 religion;* they contribute indeed to Churches, but do not much 
 attend them. 
 
 ill 
 
 The religious principle in America seems to be weakest, where 
 slavery is most inveterate. There is sometliing in Christianity wliich 
 silently and unobtrusively undermines the existence of this institu- 
 tion, by inculcating man's original and natural equality, and by re- 
 quiring duties, which involve and elicit higher intellectual faculties and 
 aspirations, than are compatible with that purely animal state of exist- 
 ence within which the life of a slave is circumscribed. A secret con- 
 sciousness of this fact renders a slave-holder naturallv, "although 
 
I 
 
 120 
 
 On Tuesday, I dined with Bishop Bowen, and met some of 
 the clergy, viz. Dr. Adams, Dr. Gadsden, Dr. Buchanan, to- 
 petherwith Dr. Holhrook, Dr. (iibbes, and others. The Bishop 
 18 an agreeable, amiable man, though ])erhap8 not very emi- 
 nent in point of talent, considering the high station he holds. 
 Indeed I begin to find, that the Episcopal clergy, though 
 highly respectable, very useful in their vocation, and extremely 
 well conducted, have not that range of ac(iuirement8, or the 
 same elevated talents which belong to some of the same body 
 in England. Dr. Macvicar of New York, Dr. De Lancey of 
 Philadelphia, and Dr. Wainright of Boston, are the best speci- 
 mens of this class of men I have fallen in with. I must on the 
 other hand admit, that I have seen or heard of none so little 
 clerical, as some of the sporting clergy in England, or so Uttle 
 informed, as a few of the worst of those who manage to pass 
 through our Universities, and slip into Orders. A general cha- 
 racter of respectable mediocrity seems to belong to the members 
 of the clerical profession in America. 
 
 On Friday, Jan. 26th, I dined with Dr.Tydyman, a very o})liging 
 and intelligent man, who, though educated for medicine, has 
 inherited a paternal estate large enough to enable him to live 
 independent of a profession. I met there General Hayne, the 
 Prussian and French Consuls, and several more whose names I 
 forget. We had a plate of green peas, a fact worth notice as 
 happening on the 26th of January. 
 
 On Monday, Jan. 29th, having at length solved the difficult 
 question as to the choice of a packet to Cuba, and made my 
 arrangements accordingly, I started, together with Dr. Shepherd 
 and two other gentlemen, to Sullivan 's Island, on the opposite 
 side of the River Ashley, a distance of about five miles. The 
 island, though nothing but a low flat sandy tract, is in summer 
 much frequented, being salubrious, and possessing the advan- 
 tage of the sea breezes. There is a small fort on the island, 
 where the Indians, captured, or rather entrapped by the United 
 States army in Florida, are to be kept under safe custody, until 
 they are transported into the wilds beyond the Arkansas. We 
 were admitted to see these warriors, of whom there were about 
 150, besides a large number of squaws and children. Many of 
 them were a fine fierce set of persons, tall, stout, and well grown, 
 with a sullen and rather dejected expression, whenever any expres- 
 sion at all appeared amidst the general apathy which character- 
 izes the race. Some few were clothed rather handsomely in 
 
 perhaps unconsciously, prejudiced against the reception, as well as 
 the propagation of Christianity, as militating against his supposed 
 interests. 
 
 iiii i 
 
n, as well as 
 
 m 
 
 leggins. bound just below the knee with garters composed of 
 porcupine quilln and beads, and in mocassins, together with a 
 tunic covered by a sort of mantle. Others were nearly naked 
 up to he middle of their thighs, having nothing but a coarse 
 Hhee thrown over them. A few possessed in addition a blanket 
 Most of these savages were stretched indolently on the ground 
 doing no hing ; their squaws, the majority of whom were hideous, 
 emploved in the meantime in pounding Indian corn in the hol- 
 low of a wooden mortar, in cooking, and in attending to their 
 children 1 he latter seemed to have acquired already the apathy 
 which characterised their parents. Many ot ihem were start 
 naked, and one little urchin was undergoing the process of 
 ablution by his mamma, under a pump in the open court, with 
 a patience which no European infant of the same age would have 
 'l'''''^;,^^^'\^l'^g^y^^hed over and over again, till we 
 thought he must have been starved with cold, the i)oor picca- 
 ninny was turned adrift, all wet and stark naked, to dry himself 
 
 Inf^nf f"? "^^ '" *a' ^"'^-^nd this, be it observed in the 
 month of February. Amongst the great people here assembled, 
 they pointed out to us " King Philip," the second in order of 
 rank Mekanope being the first or principal. He was stretched 
 on the ground, very poorly clad, and without any external mark 
 of distinction. Osceola, the celebrated warrior, was ill of the 
 quinsy, and, as the physician said, without hope of recovery. 
 
 Sl'r«?t f r, ?''''''l''".°^''^"^"^^^™^««i«" to his presence. 
 He was stretched on the floor on a mattress covered over with a 
 blanket ; his two ^vives being in the same apartment. He is 
 a fine swarthy muscular man, and, being a half-breed, is some- 
 tr\lZ "'1 '"^ his physiognomy than his companions. 
 For some time he would take no other remedies than those 
 directed by his own medicine-man, a circumstance not to be 
 wondered at, when we consider the perfidy shewn towards him 
 by the people in whose hands he now is. At present, they say, 
 he is more tractable, but the time for physic, according to the 
 doctor who 18 apix)inted to attend him, has already passed.* 
 
 * He died the following day, having, when he felt himself going, 
 made signs to h.s w.ves to g<, and bring his full dress which he wore 
 L ^f '''^'' ^J^'ch having been brought in, he rose up in his 
 bed, which was on the floor, and put on his shirt, leggins and mo- 
 
 Tnd !Si Fi'^^-r^ ^'1 '""^^-^'h ^'' bullet-pouch Ld powder-horn, 
 and Imd his kmfe by the side of him on the floor. He then called foi' 
 his red pamt and h,s looking-glass, which was held before him, when 
 he deliberately painted one half of his face red with vermilion; a 
 oistom practised when the irrevocable oath of war and destructiok is 
 taken. His knife he then placed in its shpafh under hi« »-'* and he 
 carefuUy arranged his turban on his head, and his three ostrich plumes 
 that he was in the habit of wearing on it. He then extended his 
 
 M 
 
122 
 
 m 
 
 After this interesting but mournful spectacle, we rambled 
 over the island in search of the Palmetto trees which occur 
 there. They give to the scenery a sort of tropical aspect, 
 though they do not yet attain their full dimensions. The beach 
 for more than a mile is firm and good. I collected on it several 
 shells, which I am told are rare in Europe. A species of Croton 
 mth pubescent leaves grows abundantly on the island. 
 
 Tuesday, Jan. 30th. — Made some calls preparatory to my 
 departure. Conversed with Bishop Bowen on the state of the 
 Episcopal Church. He told me that it was increasing, but not 
 in proportion to the increase of the population. The better 
 classes indeed belong to it, but they do not in general consent 
 to pay enough to invite a due supply of efficient ministers ; and 
 the duties and calls of various sorts made upon the time of the 
 clergy are such, as to preclude the possibility of those literary 
 efforts being made, which give a lustre to the Church in Eng- 
 land. Even in Virginia, where Episcopacy was at one time so 
 rapidly on the increase, it is now nearly stationary. Its most 
 palmy condition is at New York, where there are considerable 
 endowments still belonging to the Church by which the revenue 
 of the clergy is augmented. 
 
 Dined with General Hamilton, and met Mr. Petigru and 
 Mr. King, Lawyers, Major Rutledge of Georgia, and some 
 others. The General seeiiis to live in good style, and is a 
 gentlemanlike man. The conversation turned upon the conse- 
 quences of a war with England, which one of the party believed 
 would bring about a dissolution of the Union, and did not 
 think that this would be much to be regretted. The Southerners, 
 he said, are the losers, whilst the Northerners are the exclusive 
 gainers, by this national compact. It is surprising how much 
 more fond they seem of talking on English politics than on their 
 own ; Brougham, Canning, Melbourne, and the little Queen, 
 were the principal themes of our after dinner conversation, and 
 I must say, seemed as familiar to them as they are to us. 
 
 Thursday, Feb. i St.— Saw Professor Ravenel's collection of 
 shells, many of course from South Carolina, and afterwards 
 visited the new steamer, just arrived from New York i:i three 
 days and nights, which is no less than 320 feet long, and 
 
 hand to the officers present, and also to his wives and three little 
 children ; and having, shaken hands with them in dead silence, made 
 signal for them to lower him down on Iiis bed, and when he was 
 placed upon it, drew, out his scalping knife in his right hand, laid it 
 
 acrOHR hifi hrAitst:. anA in a mnmant- omi1n<1 r...rn,. !,:„ 1»o4. I xU :a.I.-.., 
 
 ... — ._ , ... „ ,,.... ..,,jm;^, tirraj' ilia lasi tyicam WlbUimi, 
 
 a struggle or groan.— See Catlin's Letters, vol. ii. p. 221, where 
 thei-e is a portrait of this warrior. 
 
123 
 
 splendidly fitted up. One thing struck me in going over the 
 vessel, I ntiean the ostentatious display of safety belts, and all 
 other imaginable contrivances against drowning m case of ship- 
 wreck/ shewmg the degree„of risk considered to belong to the 
 transit. Indeed the fatal accident that occurred in the summer 
 off Cape Hatteras, when nearly all the passengers perished 
 including many members of the best families in Charleston' 
 must be present in the minds of those who undertake the vovage 
 for some time to come. ' 
 
 ^^^^Irr'^e, day being cold and wet, I attended a lecture 
 of Dr. Dickson s, the Professor of Medicine, which impressed 
 me favourably. It was on Cholera, and espoused the theory of 
 contagion with reference to this disease very ably. Though 
 pretty well accustomed by this time to the practice of spitting 
 I could not see without disgust the pools of saliva ejected on the 
 ground by the students. 
 
 Saturday was also a bleak disagreeable English winter day. 
 I dined with Dr. Tidyman a second time, and received from 
 him a whole shoal of pamphlets, chiefly respecting the Tariff 
 It must be allowed, that the people of South Carolina acted with 
 much spirit on the occasion alluded to, and certainly were the 
 means, both of removing from the community an odious tax, 
 imposed for the sole benefit of the manufacturers of the North] 
 and of paving the way to a due recognition of the principles 
 of free trade. Dr. Tidyman told me, that he and all the gentle- 
 men of Charleston had expressed their readiness to lay down 
 their lives at this crisis, and such was the threatening aspect of 
 affairs at one time, from the refusal of the Legislature of North 
 Carohna to exact the duties on foreign goods which Congress 
 had enacted, and from the resolute character of General Jack- 
 yon who was preparing to march an army into the country to 
 compel submission, that it seemed not unlikely the patriots in 
 this State might have been driven to carry out their resolu- 
 tions, had not Mr. Clay suggested a compromise. Nevertheless 
 the South Carolineans seem even now to pay a dear price for 
 their union with the North, since they are still forced to impose 
 heavy duties upon the commodities of their best customer, 
 England, for the sake of favouring a people nearly looo miles 
 distant, with whom, it must be confessed, they have little in 
 common. 
 
 On Sunday morning, Feb. 4, I at length received a summons 
 i^ vinoain., aiiu. luuR. my icuvu ui ocuan; s iioiei at ten o'clock. 
 I cannot praise that establishment, though conducted by a man 
 who, I am told, was formerly in one of the first hotels in London. 
 
 M 2 
 
h 
 
 k&& 
 
 A 
 
 
 ill 
 
 124 
 
 The bed-rooms are pretty good, cold indeed in such weather as 
 we have had, but not unsuited to the ordinary climate of 
 Charleston. The attendance however is bad, and the table 
 dirty and slovenly. But what can be expected, when we are 
 waited upon by none but negro slaves ? I heard Mr. Stuart 
 trequently threaten them with the lash, but this stimulus is not 
 exactly calculated to make good waiters. Nothing can be more 
 ordinary, and indeed shabby, than the knives and forks and 
 other furniture for the table. In short there is a manifest fall- 
 ing off in most respects on getting to a slave state, though 
 there may be somewhat greater obsequiousness on the part of 
 the negro servants, than on that of the helps of the North. 
 
 The brig Elm in which I embarked appeared a compact little 
 vessel, and was commanded by an excellent and experienced 
 captain. The crew indeed when I came on board seemed 
 drunken and disorderly, but I was assured that this was 
 generally the case on setting out, and that a few hours work in 
 getting the vessel into trim would do wonders in restorinff 
 sobrietv. On reaching the open sea we found a fine breeze 
 ^om the bouth, and thus proceeded rapidly on our course 
 1 he weather, however, during the two first days, felt bitterly 
 cold, the thermometer on Sunday being only 37% a d on Mon- 
 day 45°, nor did the cabin afford us much protection. During 
 Monday and Tuesday we went on prosperously, meeting, as we 
 advanced south, with more moderate breezes, and more genial 
 weatner. 
 
 On Tuesday, Feb. 6, at two p. m. I have noted down my 
 sitting near the prow of the vessel, ])asking in the sun, as in 
 ^ngland during the mon„h of June, a breeze just sufficient to 
 liil the sails can-ymg us smoothly and gently towards our desti- 
 nation. On that day we had accomphshed one half of the 
 J^^^yjJ'emg in the latitude of Cape Canaveral, on the coast 
 ot l^londa, having sailed 240 miles since five p.m. on Sun- 
 day. ^ 
 
 In the evening however the wind died away, and a most 
 splendid sunset took place, the prelude to a strong south eastern 
 which sprung up in the night. With this we were baflSed the 
 whole of Wednesday and Thursday, tacking about continually, 
 but making no progress. On Wednesday morning we observed 
 a little fleet of vessels, two of them steamers, near the Florida 
 coast, which then became distinctly visible. It probably was 
 connected with some expedition carrying on against the Semi- 
 noles, and, from the latitude we were in, it would seem to be at 
 the mouth of Indian River, where, if I mistake not, took place 
 the last unfortunate encounter with tho caxraoraa ;., ,..i,;-u t\„ 
 Leitner lost his life. *' '"'"^^"^ "^ ""'"^ ^'• 
 
 iiP^! 
 
125 
 
 About eleven o'clock on the morning of Thursday, Feb 8th 
 a lamentable accident occurred. Captl Croft, who^ would do 
 
 S rorr?o''/'" '"" ^'^ J^^-^«°™' where he had been 
 seated m order to arrange some part of the riarrino- and wa^ 
 
 Sr&^t '':> ^""* "' 'hat time lff;pLd1o"b 
 runnmg nigh. Ihe mate and one of the crew hesitafpH nnf a 
 moment m lowering the boat, and hastenin^ro h as fstan e 
 but before the latter could be disengaged f?om its fasten?na«' 
 
 ttcfrlenVtn ^^^ '° "'^^' \'^''^'' ^"^" -" -^""f; 
 
 neverreS s illT?t^H'"''!i,°" ^'' ^^'' ^^« ^«"«- His body 
 nevertneiess still floated on the water, and, beinir heaved intn 
 
 the boat, was soon placed upon deck. We v^erebfffled however 
 
 at fa^t^under ir l' ["t"^ ^"•"^^^^"' ^^ -« r^^^^ 
 gone for ever. Persuasion, that the vital spark was 
 
 The impression which this accident left on my mind, in com- 
 mon, I beheve, ^vlth most persons on board, was far from bein^ 
 
 2f ^?T^ '^' T' ^^ '^' ^^°y^^«- I «hall long reSembe? 
 
 he dreadful pause during the time the boat was bdnorTov^red 
 and manned, when the captain was distinctly seen at%o great 
 distance at first battling with the waves successfXX 
 afterwards falling back, suffocated probably by a large billow 
 
 hat had dashed over him. There was also no slglft dan^^^^^ 
 
 uch a sea^ '^^."'Tr' ^" '"^^"^ ^" ^ «"'^" bolt throulh 
 such a sea as they had to encounter; and, again, when the 
 
 body was brought on deck, there was the painfu period of 
 Sr^hTY'* ^\r' ^'™^ ineffectually^to revivranima. 
 
 considerldonr'fn^r ' ''P*''" '"" ^^''''^ "«^^«"^ "^'^re selfish 
 considerations, for we were now to trust our lives durina- the 
 
 ^l^TT\T V^' ''y'^''' ^^^ mate, who froi^ hi 
 lovv nnH i ?''* A^\^f ^PP'T^ ^ hair-brained sort of fel- 
 low, and confessedly had never had charge of a vessel on this 
 
 coaTof'fe. ^r''\'' i'"'^ been'shipwreckrd on \h 
 coast ot l^Iorida at this particular period, would have been no 
 
 12 t'''%~r'P' ^-^l if we' had escaped drowning, vve 
 
 tak'f us Ifl fn Y T *^' t^'t "^ the Seminoles, ^4o, 
 taking us all for Yankees, with whom they were enaaffed in 
 deadly warfare, would have probably scalped and eateS 
 
 fn I?" ?^^' /»?-ning, viz. Friday, Feb. 9th, we were compelled 
 
 beenTn^? ^ n^'^^ of the captain to the deep, from which ft had 
 
 En^Hri i^ uTu^' ^""^ "f^ ""*i^ *^^ B^"^l Service of the 
 iinghsh church had been read over the corpse, in which cere- 
 
 T^L^Zt'J f.^rc"?>«t^^9«« which even a Puseyite would admit 
 ""'tJ "'^;;''^" "«"""» ^ omciaiea as ciiapiain. 
 
 cnri^t^lfl *^'"' ^!'"^ "^'^PP'^ ^"^ ^'^^ "P '"^ a blanket, was 
 consigned to its watery grave, and, as a large stone had been 
 
 M3 
 
 *■ fr 
 
 |'»L 
 
1 
 ' i 
 
 H: 
 
 1 
 
 j 
 
 
 ' 1 
 
 s . . 
 
 
 ( 
 
 126 
 
 attached to it, all the precaution necessary for its submerffence 
 seemed to have been taken. 
 
 In the evening however a fellow-passenger beckoned me to 
 the side of the vessel, and pointed out an object floating at a 
 little distance, the nature of which to my less acute vision was 
 not altogether distinguishable. To him however it appeared 
 to be the head of a man just elevated above the surface, and 
 as there had been a dead calm throughout the day, so that the 
 vessel had scarcely moved from its position, there seemed much 
 probability in his conjecture, that it was our poor captain, disen- 
 gaged from his moorings, and again become buoyant on the 
 waters . 
 
 I could not help thinking of the corpse of the unfortunate 
 I'rince Caraccioh, executed by Nelson's order at Naples, and 
 seen afterwards floating with his head upright in the bay. I 
 beseeched my companion however, that we should keep the 
 secret to ourselves, for I knew not ii. what degree such a sight 
 might affect the crew, and how much, in the event of a storm 
 the vision of their former captain, whom, whether dead or alive' 
 nothing seemed capable of keeping under water, might unnerve 
 their courage, and tend to paralyse their exertions. 
 
 The next morning, viz. on Saturday, February loth, a breeze 
 fortunately had sprung up, and this ominous object was no 
 longer visible. -^ 
 
 After the death of the captain, I had taken the mate aside, and 
 remonstrated with him seriously on the responsibUity of his new 
 position promising, if he behaved weU, to report favourably of 
 him to his employers, on my arrival at Cuba.* 
 
 Both he and the crew seemed somewhat impressed with the 
 a^vful fate which had befallen their captain, and have since 
 behaved themselves steadilv, abstaining altogether from liquor 
 
 A mce breeze too, which sprung up on Saturday, piloted us 
 safely along the edge of the great Florida bank, which used to 
 be the terror of the early navigators. By midday on Sunday we 
 had cleared that coast, and were within two degrees of the 
 Island 01 Cuba. 
 
 During Sunday night the wind, though still fair, was only 
 just strong enough to withstand the force of the Gulf-stream, 
 
 * J ^"^^f'T to say, that his self-control lasted him only till he ifot 
 on shore. The day following our arrival, just as 1 had penned a letter 
 to his employers at Charleston testifying to his good behaviour, and 
 recommending him as a fit person to command the vessel which he 
 had giuded so well into port, I was told, that he had got drunk the 
 night before, had kicked up a row in the streets, and been consio-ned tf, 
 the watclNhouse thus forfeiting all his chance of promotion'bv his 
 inconsiderate behaviour. 
 
•,! 
 
 127 
 
 Matanzas lay dh-ecUy 1™^!",^' "'^'"" '=^'^^ *e Pan of 
 
 after frequent tackZ to Tnlh^ • We therefore were obliged, 
 which guards the entrance Jn.l^^l' ^'*^^" '¥ ^^'^^^ ^f More 
 ofthefelayscauLdTvthe.tn ^ haven and, in consequence 
 to remain anot"hVon S'Th?"^"'' regulation's, had 
 calm, the crew warned the v^!!.{' 7 ^""^"'"F ^^^^^^^ being 
 a voyage, wSh owW t. • '^ '"^'^ P""*^' ^"^ ^hus concluded 
 tend^d'to arn'ofterd"^^^^^ "^^^"^^'^ ^^^^^^"^«> ^^^ - 
 
 ^X^^^d^tZ^^^^^^ with some dif. 
 
 at Havanna T?e bav LZ'"^^^^'''' ^ ^'-'"'''' ^ ^''* ^'"^'^ 
 city, affords the fin'^^ ^^Z i^tl^T^ioM^^^^^ ^ 
 
 manner in which its pntro„,.o ;„ , , ,' ™" '"* perfect 
 
 tress of the Moro and tCh^f, ™"'""»'^ed. by the strong for- 
 one of the most secure A v.c ^ "1^°"".' '^'""^ '» ''^der it 
 extensive wharfs a„d ,h^ flf "f "n"' "•' *'P^ '^y "'""K "« 
 floating in di&ttrtf^fftThalt"^"""^ might be ien 
 
 e4ate^rd"tar:a=i„;1r^;/-^-^^^^^^^^ 
 
128 
 
 I I 
 
 I i 
 
 which was provided for, as much as possible, by having wide and 
 lofty openings, opposite each other, both on the side fronting 
 the street, and on that opening into the corridor, so that the wind 
 could blow freely through them. The same arrangement was 
 adopted in most of the bed-rooms, but mine was less advan- 
 tageously situated, and hence, though I slept wth my window 
 and door open, I found the heat extremely oppressive. 
 
 The most unpleasant circumstance attending this inn, and 
 others frequented by foreigners in Cuba, is, that the majority of 
 their inmates are consumptive patients, sent over to escape the 
 rigour of the winter experienced in the Northern States of the 
 Union. Many were in the last stage rf this insidious disorder, 
 and their wan and ghastly appearance ;^v/:j to the hotel the aspect 
 of an hospital. 
 
 With regard to the houses in general, there is this peculiarity 
 m their arrangement, that even genteel people sit in the en- 
 trance-hall, opening directly upon the street by a large window, 
 without glass, and protected only by strong iron bars. Thus 
 in passing along, you see a great deal into the interior of a 
 family circle, and may observe ladies pursuing their various 
 occupations, drawing, reading, or playing, just as if you were 
 in the room with them. The same apartment, in which they 
 sit, usually accommodates the volante or family carriage, and 
 the way to the stable is through the same. In other cases a 
 partition divides this entrance from the sitting rooms, and 
 there is also, communicating by an open archway with the 
 apartment in front, one at the back, to which the members of 
 the family may retire when greater privacy is desired. 
 
 I was indeed reminded by the very plan of the houses, that 
 the climate was one where winter was unknown. Windows 
 appeared to be almost entirely banished, and the openings, 
 through which light and air found entrance, might be closed by 
 folding doors or Venetian bhnds at pleasure. 
 
 The streets of Havanna are extremely narrow and ill-paved ; 
 after wet indeed intolerable, and in dirty weather very annoying. 
 The present energetic Governor Tacon has insisted on the re- 
 moval of that accumulation of, filth which formerly rendered 
 them so offensive, but it is mortifying to be told, that the city 
 was, in spite of this, more unhealthy last year, than it had been 
 ever known to be before. 
 
 I believe however his endeavours to cleanse away the moral 
 filth which formerly polluted the city, have been attended with 
 happier results. The public gambling houses have been closed 
 —family connections and wealth are no longer a passport to 
 impunity from crime— and the streets, which were formerly 
 dangerous after sunset, may now be traversed without fear of 
 the stiletto at all hours of the night. 
 
129 
 
 The Governor indeed, mindful of the Horatian maxim 
 
 the heads of the malefactors he has caused to be executed as f 
 
 ."olS-orM-ar-ar-'^ ' ''^' *' '''^'- »- '^e ~I 
 
 With all the drawbacks arising from its imperfect civilisa 
 
 s-S£«„fThrt™;ajiirr^:H^ 
 
 «Lrn»™ h^'l^''" "■^"^ '•^^ l-^" ««»<1^<1 and adorned, and 
 
 ^tSi^h w:'^ A- ^"^ 'atter ifaCfo tS b^T^S 
 and ditch, beyond which are some very extensive snhiirh, T^I 
 present population is reckoned at aboSt i,6 o^ neS ii»lT^f 
 
 ofl ver"vTart"Mr "^ "''rT^^' " "-e Lrse ?arX , a« 
 
 ine lankees, the Scotchmen of the Npw Wnri,i u^ u 
 contrived to obtain a footing, as the le'adi^^LSs td tZ 
 
 
 n >* 
 
 I' I 
 
 IflljiBII . It 
 
 I! 
 
 ifi 
 
 Iff 
 
 fy. 
 
 if,' Jill M 
 
mhf'^" 
 
 iiiiif 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 f ' 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 1 '1 
 
 ! 
 
 1.. 
 
 I i! If 
 
 L".- 
 
 
 111 
 
 .' 
 
 9 
 
 fi 
 
 ' 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 .Jj 
 
 130 
 
 enterprising planters in the island, as indeed they have done, 
 and are doing, in most cities of the American continent, where 
 there is any opportunity for going a head. 
 
 That they will hy degrees gain an ascendancy over the old 
 settlers derived from other nations of Europe, and become in the 
 end their lords and masters, which has already happened in 
 the case of Louisiana and Texas, will not be questioned by any 
 one, who is aware of the superior energy of the Anglo-Saxon 
 race, and I, for one, should be disposed to send them " God 
 speed" with the most unhesitating good-will, if I did not recol- 
 lect, that the progress they have hitherto made in their onward 
 course has been the means of rivetting the chains of slavery in 
 both the countries above referred to. 
 
 The languor and listlessness brought on by a sudden tran- 
 sition from the cold of winter to a temperature not sinking below 
 78° at night, and sometimes rising to 84° in the course of the 
 day, induced me to shorten my sojourn at Havanna. I found 
 time however to pay two visits to the Botanic Garden, which, 
 though not well kept, is nevertheless interesting to a person 
 unused to tropical vegetation. I saw a noble avenue of palms 
 of the species called " palma reale," the oreodoxa regia of Hum- 
 boldt. * It is perfectly bare to the top, where it sends out a most 
 graceful tuft of large fan-shaped leaves. The trunk continues of 
 the same size up to a certain height, where it swells out, but 
 still higher it contracts again, and this latter portion, which is 
 the spathe enclosing the parts of fructification, is distinguished 
 by its lively bottle-green colour, whilst the lower portions of the 
 trunk are ash grey. The entire trunk is sometimes one hundred 
 feet in height, and a series of these trees looks Hke a range of 
 colossal pillars. There are likewise specimens of the Cocoa-nut 
 palm, and of the Corypha Miraguama, a lower and more bushy 
 description of tree than the two former. One of the most beau- 
 tiful shrubs at present in blossom was the Clusia alba, with its 
 round fleshy leaves and large milk-white flowers. Another cu- 
 rious tree is the Eriodendron anfractuosum, which sends out 
 during its growth a number of hard strong spines, dropping off, 
 as the size and age of the tree advances, but forming a most 
 terrific protection to the weaker portions, which retain them. 
 
 Both these are to be seen in stoves in Great Britain, but it is 
 doubly interesting to observe them expanded to their natural 
 proportions under the tropical sky of Cuba. 
 
 Both species of bread-fruit were growing in great beauty in 
 the garden, several fine pandanuses, the mahogany tree, the 
 ficus elastica of India, the cocoa plant, &c. A beautiful avenue 
 
 * Nova genera plant. Equin. torn. i. p. 244. 
 
131 
 
 tl"r '' '''''' '' *'^ ^-^^ ^" ^^^« ^^-^te, occurs near 
 Mr Schenley oi e of the commissioners appointed to watch 
 over the smugghng of slaves into Havannah, took me to Count 
 Fernandino's country residence, and showed me a garden S 
 out m the Enghsh style, remarkable for the beauty Sd lu.uri. 
 ance of the plants it contains. At a later season tL. . 
 be.a perfect paradise; when I vi^ted it, verarhiwtuse^Tr 
 onms, niehas, and jatrophas were in flower, but hrmak)ri?C 
 of the plants were only in leaf. A negro climbed for uT to tS 
 top of a cocoa tree, and brought down nuts enonah fn fv! • 
 green state, to give us a good dLghH? t^cool ancf Ueshi^^^^ 
 milk they contain. From the top of the house we had a finf 
 view of Havanna and its neighbourhood. 
 
 MSa"„.'attf rtK/t 'Jvtijl'rad'S ''' '"^""'J '" 
 
 ricti valley ot Humare. The sides of the hills were covpred iv fK 
 
 SKrlV.^n ?i • ^ ^^^ P^^""' ^^d Its tribes of parasites its 
 wild pine ( lUandsia), cactuses, and creepers peopling it whiS 
 numerous lianas were twisted round theLnfand Kchls t 
 some cases so as altogether to enclose them ^''^ '° 
 
 iiant green, the fields of sugar cane which occupied it beincr 
 for the most part standing. On descending howevtint^^^ 
 
 H vmg again ascended the crest of the hiJi \^. iLt?'^?^' 
 
 Sanzas "'thV? ''V'"^^ ''. ^^"^^ ''^^'^ ^^^ consp cioi^ 
 Matanzas. The hmestone rock on either side of us rose in- 
 
 m 
 
 ft 
 
 -'■*: 
 
 nil 
 
 
 t, ■ 1 !ll 
 
 • ;' 
 1 '■: 
 
 
 ■• 
 
 y 
 
liil;. 
 
 li^i 
 
 
 t 
 
 III 
 
 ^■ ! f^ 
 
 sill ; ' : i 
 
 132 
 
 to nearly vertical cliffs. It appeared to be highly cellular, and 
 in some places contains large caves, one of which, near Matanzas, 
 is said to be a mile or two in extent. 
 
 Matanzas is surrounded by wood on all sides, and its envi- 
 rons must in the season afford a rich field for the botanist. 
 Even in February a species of vernonia forming a bushy shrub, 
 two or three species of convolvulus, and a few other plants were 
 in full flower. But the town itself is dirty and irregular, pre- 
 senting little that is in any sense inviting. I fell in however 
 with a masquerade at the theatre, which afforded me an hour's 
 entertainment. There was not much attempt indeed at comic 
 humour, except on the part of some men who imitated the negro 
 costumes and dance, and mimicked both very well. The un- 
 masked ladies exhibited but little beauty. They have indeed 
 fine hair and in general fair complexions, being studiously pro- 
 tected from the heat of the sun, but they evince no signs of ani- 
 mation, nor are their countenances expressive of intellect. 
 
 On Monday, 19th, I hired a boat to take me to Madame Esche- 
 verie's boarding-house, near the banks of the Canamar river. 
 The price charged was six dollars, a pretty round sum, as it 
 seemed to me, for a distance, not exceeding eight miles, and not 
 occupying the time of two men for more than three hours, 
 making with the return a very short and easy day. * I was 
 assured however, that the usual charge was eight dollars ; such 
 is the extravag'-nt price of labour at Cuba. We passed up the 
 bay till we came to the mouth of the river, and fell in with seve- 
 ral craft rowed by negroes, one or two of whom were stark naked. 
 On entering the Canamar river, a scene of great beauty pre- 
 sented itself, from the luxuriance of the woods which covered 
 the rocks on either side of the stream, and the solemn silence 
 and solitude that seemed to reign in this secluded spot. Even 
 the birds moved about with an air of security, and a pelican 
 allowed our boat to approach within ten yards without taking 
 the least notice of us. He fell a victim however to his temerity, 
 and will, I hope, adorn the shelves of our museum at Oxford. 
 After rowing about five miles up the river, we landed, and as- 
 cended a pretty steep path which led to the boarding-house 
 above mentioned, a small coffee plantation kept by a widow 
 from New England, who combines, with the care of this estate, 
 the management of an hotel for the reception of invalids. 
 
 The approach is through an avenue of palms, mango trees, 
 
 * The vsame exorbitant prices were asked on other occasions. Thus 
 for three horses and a guide to go frona Matanzas to Havanna, a dis- 
 *snc€ or siXcy-Sis rniies, or t«vo days journey, and 1,0 return to xTiStSn- 
 zas again, I was asked sixty-six dollars, or thirteen pounds sterling. 
 
y cellular, and 
 lear Matanzas, 
 
 and its envi- 
 • the botanist. 
 
 bushy shrub, 
 ler plants were 
 irregular, pre- 
 sU in however 
 me an hour's 
 deed at comic 
 ated the negro 
 ell. The un- 
 f have indeed 
 tudiously pro- 
 
 signs of ani- 
 ntellect. 
 
 [adame Esche- 
 'anamar river, 
 nd sum, as it 
 miles, and not 
 
 1 three hours, 
 day. * I was 
 dollars; such 
 passed up the 
 I in with seve- 
 'e stark naked, 
 it beauty pre- 
 which covered 
 solemn silence 
 i spot. Even 
 and a pelican 
 i^ithout taking 
 D his temerity, 
 im at Oxford, 
 inded, and as- 
 oarding-house 
 t by a widow 
 of this estate, 
 ivaUds. 
 
 , mango trees, 
 
 ccasions. Thus 
 iavanna, a di8> 
 
 inds Sterling. 
 
 133 
 
 and alligator pears, the borders being occupied by a ranrre of 
 
 S;'!;?^'!' ^u- ^''^'' ''^' «^ this avenue is a LruKv of 
 coffee plants, which attam the height of our Portugal Ss Be- 
 yond IS an enclosure containing plantains. One^fs Zrised in 
 commg from a northern dimate, at seeing a arnZleveex 
 panded to the size of a tree; as i^ the case^ith the bamboo" 
 
 Lm'thfhous:"Tf ^'^'""^^"^ J^""^P« '' ^ '^'^ difnee 
 
 cawered around i ''''"^' '"^ ^''""^ ''''' i" f"" fruit are 
 scattered around the premises, near which is the coffee bam 
 
 with a place for drying the berries in front, and the nesroS' 
 
 huts scattered around.* The temperature here was coo^Td 
 
 agreeable compared to that of the town. At sunrile durTnl tl^P 
 
 two first mghts it did not exceed 64° or 65ra?d 3 a 
 
 mid-day It might rise to 81°, 82°, or even 8^% yet therfvvas 
 
 a refreshmg breeze, which rendered the hea? o^ mv feelinl 
 
 greatly more tolerable than it had been in the towns^ ^ 
 
 On Tuesday, Feb. 20th, I procured horses, and rode to a fine 
 sugar estate on the opposite side of the river, where the neonl 
 were employed in cutting and grinding the suga?-cane and in 
 
 t^Sse'ert^bf ZTV'^ ^,rr '>'^"P- '"he hTrrst'toS 
 woum seem to be that of cutting the crop, which is a labour of 
 
 the same description as that of reaping in Europe. IWind 
 
 mgis performed m rolling mills, worked by horses and thf nni 
 
 portion of the work performed by thrnearr^s that of ?. J ^ 
 
 Lt?f'"S^^i^ r^' '^ *^^ «talk,a'ndtLsTxyLt jufce^Th? 
 lat er is collected into a reservoir, and then boiled with a portion 
 of hme, a negro attending each vat to remove the kum ^ 
 
 The avenues by which the mansion was approached consisted 
 as usual of palms, mangoes, and orange trees, from the ?atter of 
 which the ripe fmit hal tumbled off, and was IvTng n heaps on 
 the ground. The mammey of St. Domingo, with fruit like a 
 small melon and leaves like a mangolia, was also found Thl 
 house itseli had no pretensions, coLdeVed as the SencJof 
 a wealthy planter, but it was cool and pleasant Tw«.tl^.,w i 
 to the breakfast-table by the inmates, and after mTride d ^ 
 
 stroll through the woods which bound the estate, I collected thp 
 follomng plants ; viz. the common castor oil plant SomL^ 
 
 family. 
 
 apart- 
 
 N 
 
134 
 
 im^ 
 
 1 
 
 t; 
 
 I ; 
 
 
 i ■ ■] 
 
 
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 i .' I" 
 
 
 » i 
 
 
 ' ' ''1 
 
 L, 
 
 
 (Irobium alatum — and another orchideous epiphyte — a very larj^e 
 plant of the arum kind, the Caladium pinnatifidum — a banis- 
 teria — two species of bornbax — and others quite new to me. 
 My servant Hhot several birds. One of them proved to be the 
 rare Trogon Temnurus, now in the Ashmolean Museum. 
 
 The next day I strolled on foot through the same woods. 
 The capsicum plant, that aftbrding the arrow root (maranta 
 arundinacea), the cotton plant, here growing to a considerable 
 height for a shrub, and others*, were the fruit of my rambles. 
 In the evening went to the borders of the river, and remarked 
 again the extraordinarily cellular character of the limestone. It 
 is full of caves of various sizes. 
 
 The heat on Wednesday was very oppressive, the thermometer 
 mounting up to 85" or 86% and the actinometer at midday 
 measuring 203 degrees. 
 
 On Thursday the 22nd, however, a heavy rain came on, ac- 
 companied with a strong north wind, and the atmosphere was 
 cooled down to 71° at midday. On Friday at t}unrise it felt 
 positively chilly, the thermometer standing only at 65°. I rode 
 this morning into Matanzas, and found the air accordingly of a 
 very agreeable temperature. In the evening I examined the 
 rocks near the town, which seem to afford a fair sample of the 
 hmestone formation so generally distributed over the southern 
 portion of this island. The abundance of corallines, and the 
 occurrence of shells, which, if my little knowledge of the subject 
 does not deceive me, are similar to those now existing, per- 
 suade me, that this rock is not, as Humboldt states, the Jura 
 limestone, but a coral formation of very modern date, heaved 
 up from the depths of the sea. Granting such to be the case, 
 I conceive it would well deserve the examination of the Geolo- 
 gist, being probably one of the most remarkable cases of modern 
 elevation to be found any where ; as the rocks rise to a consider- 
 able height above the sea level, and stretch over a very wide 
 range, along the northern coast of this extensive island. 
 
 On Saturday February 24th, I returned by the steamer to 
 Havanna, and resumed my former quarters at the Mansion 
 House. In the evening I went to the Opera, which appeared 
 to me surprisingly well got up. The house, though plain, is 
 spacious and respectable, and the prima donna, Mademoiselle 
 
 * Humboldt's researches in this island being very imperfect, as may 
 be seen from the " Flora of Cuba," appended to Kunth's Nova Ge- 
 nera et Species, I had intended giving a correct list of those I had my- 
 self collected, but was prevented by the appearance of Ramon de la 
 Sagra's work on the Natural History of Cuba, which may be referred 
 tOj as a much more complete account of the Botany than I could offer. 
 
135 
 
 terini 'hasllf *^"^ '^"^f ' '^^^' P""^'P^1 "«!« dinger, 
 I eiiegrmi, has likewise a hne voice. It is plain that the 
 
 Havanna people take great pride in this amusement and 
 
 n/rr^"''^'%''r« "P«" >t- 'rh« house was^hnly at- 
 tended, but some of the ladies were stylish in their appearance 
 
 the rtrutv iTlrhf tTl'- '^^^ «^--^ clSTTo 
 tneir Deauty is that blanched character of complexion which 
 
 arises from a too studious avoidance of the heat of the un-^ 
 
 they look as it were, etiolated, pale and watery, as may be ex- 
 
 pected when we know, that many of them ne;er ZL at aU 
 
 and take exercise, even in their vofantes, only after sunset 
 
 On Sunday I saw the Governor's garden on the Passan a 
 
 Tw ' ear'X'Sy "t""-, • '^'^^' '''' and'shrubs a'Tuch 
 
 houses J Zl K '"^'^ ^"^ ^" ^ ''""^^^ ^°r"» i» our stove- 
 houses. I brought away specimens of a few of them. 
 
 On Monday 26th, I went with Mons. Chapy, an intelligent 
 and obliging french gardener, to herborize on the oppositeS 
 frVshi^ls .^^^l^^rthV^ Guanamacoa. We me?S'a few 
 
 crDtion of k?m f ^^ ^l^^ch most struck me was a new de- 
 scription of Palm of a most elegant and graceful form. It is 
 much lower than either the Oreodoxa, or tL Cocoa nT but the 
 leaves encircle the trunk, or rather the central shoot, in whiris 
 rising upwards almost vertically. According to Mons Chanv 
 
 ^z T ?W ^'"PP^^^d- ^y^ traveller enumerates only five; 
 VIZ. I. Oreodoxa regia; 2. Cocos nucifera; 3. Cocos crispa- 
 
 addsT theT.r'"V .'' Coryphamaritima4o which S^; 
 inff to the ln.f«Vr' ^^^^"bed; 7,8. dwarf species belong- 
 mg to the genus Ihrynax ; and two others. Mons Auber 
 the Curator of the Botanic Garden at Havanna reckons I 
 understand, no less than eighteen species. The so 1 at Guana 
 moca appears to be a kind of serpentine, so that the corSe 
 limestone would seem only to form a belt along the coast 
 
 On Tuesday I drove out to the pleasant village of Cerro 
 
 ot'ther w>hV.° ""*'^ ^""^^^ "^ '^' H^^^™- cobles Some 
 
 statues ^andfiiw' ^f.'^'"' ornamented with fountains and 
 
 hnZ' h?A . -"^^ .^ ^ profusion of tropical flowers and 
 
 a little P^l """"'^ ^ny^Vng appearance. The Cerro stands on 
 
 exemif frZ f '' ^"1/' ^''^^''' '"°"^^ ^^«"^ ^^^ city to be 
 exempt from fever. It contains a boarding house kept by a 
 
 in Ddnrn?' ""^f'^ *^""?> '^'^ ""* *" b^^^ «^"ch to boast^f 
 m point of comfort, would, on account of its situation, secure 
 my preference, were I asain to visit Havann. Th^." ;1 Z^l 
 over this objection to a residence in the city,' thaV the suburbs 
 
 N 2 
 
, I 
 
 :4 
 I' 
 
 h 
 
 ;itE[!ii 
 
 '> 
 
 136 
 
 around it are so extensive, that it is impossible to get out far 
 beyond them in the course of a morning's ride. Hence, if one 
 wished to herborize, it would be necessary to encounter the 
 heat of the meridian sun before one could return. 
 
 I am not aware of any other rambles worth noticing which I 
 made during my stay on the island. The great expence of 
 going to a distance from the city with the accompaniment of a 
 guide, which my ignorance of Spanish would have rendered 
 indispensable, together with the short time remaining before the 
 period fixed upon for my return to Englana, indu«^ed me very 
 reluctantly to avail myself of the steamer, the Cuba, whirh 
 sailed for New Orleans on Wednesday the 28th of February. 
 This was one of the largest and finest vessels of the kind I had 
 ever been in, being 220 feet long, very strongly built, and well 
 constructed for sea service. Amongst my fellow-passengers I 
 may mention, an intelligent and agreeable Enghshman, Mr. 
 Wylie, settled in a mercantile capacity at New Orleans, and a 
 gentleman of Louisiana, by the name of Porter, and his daughter, 
 now on their return home, after a sojourn of some weeks on the 
 island on account of the health of the latter, which had been 
 threatened with pulmonarjr symptoms. The title of Judge by 
 which Mr. Porter was designated is, in America, too common 
 to be any sure evidence of distinction ; but I soon found, on 
 making his acquaintance, that he was a man of superior attain- 
 ments, and of a high cast of mind.* 
 
 The weather, during the whole of our voyage till we reached 
 the mouths of the Mississippi, was as delightful as could be 
 desired— the sea calm, the wind slight but favourable, and the 
 temperature mild and ec^uable. We sailed on Wednesday 
 evening at five o'clock, and on Saturday, March 3rd, about 
 sunset, were within a few miles of the bar at the mouth of the 
 Mississippi. So dense a fog however had come on, that the 
 captain dared not shift his ground, till eleven o'clock the next 
 
 * Judge Porter, whom I had afterwards the pleasure of knowing 
 more intimately, had raised himself by his abilities to the highest post 
 at the bar in Louisiana, l>eing for f<)urteen years Judge of the Supreme 
 Court, and afterwards Senator of the State in Congress. Miss 
 Martineau in her Retrospect of Western Travel describes him as 
 follows : — 
 
 « He was Irish by birth. His father was vindictively executed, 
 under martial law, in the Irish Rebellion ; and the sons were sent by 
 their noble-minded mother to America, where Alexander, the eldest, 
 has thus raised himself to a station of high honour. Judge Porter's 
 wamith, sincerity, generosity, knowledge, and wit, are the pride of his 
 coiisiitueuls, and very oruainental to the bench. What their charm 
 iei by the fire-side may be imagined." 
 
 \>..> 
 
137 
 
 day; at which time the weather had cleared sufficientlv tn 
 ^mi^Red R,vers, pounng into it south of its confluence with the 
 
 the;^istr/^-^,rr:.,ti:^^^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 lu wmca neiiner IVeptune nor Jove cou d establish a claim fS 
 
 mgaer up the stream, we saw, first a little brushwood and 
 then a coarse descr pt on of reed or rpHctp i^^ii ". i .^ 
 
 city^mdicative of improvement in the character of tS 
 We arrived at our destination bv dav-break nl mA a 
 
 &ci|s:ii X^t ltd r K'ur ^'^^- •- = 
 
 .«J / ^*^ commercial advantages, it must be franklv 
 conessed, no one, whose mind was not alto^Xr engrossed 
 by the aun sacra fames, would select for his residence^ so ill 
 favom-ed, so pestilential a city— one situated in hp^iJ/"^ 
 
 -TpSt'e"""^^ T ""'^Z P-Str'oaS than Se rivel 
 to7:itl:.Tl7.'tf^:^^^.^^^^^^ in summer-anJ 
 
 X ^t7t^^^^ ^^^^Sighr^h:sf^^^ 
 
 rains, but the following morning proved waiii, and dry ov7r^ 
 
 N3 
 
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 * 
 
 
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 m 
 
 S 1 
 
 W* 
 
 11 
 
 II; 
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 ili 
 
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 '1 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 138 
 
 head. Last week a fog continued for three successive days, and 
 so the changes proceed.* 
 
 In noticing the fine buildings which it contains, I must 
 begin with the Exchange Hotel, a most imposing structure, 
 capable of lodging 500 guests, ornamented with Corinthian 
 columns, and with a cupola which forms the most conspicuous 
 object throughout the place. Next to it is a low mean brick 
 building, which I found to be one of the few Churches which 
 this ungodly city supports ; and the contrast between the two 
 constitutes a very significant commentary on the prevailing 
 tastes of its inhabitants. .The Protestant Episcopalian Church in 
 Canal Street is however a handsome Grecian structure ; but the 
 principal embellishments of the town are the Banks, of which 
 there are several, possessing some pretensions to grandeur, 
 though none equal to Mr. Biddle's at Philadelphia. The 
 Theatre of St. Charles, in the American part of the city, is the 
 handsomest, as well as internally the largest, that I have ob- 
 served in the United States. I saw there Miss Ellen Tree and 
 Mr. Bartlett perform in Sheridan Knowles' new Comedy of the 
 Love Chace. The audience consisted as usual of a great pre- 
 ponderance of males ; but, as the ladies all go to the lower tier 
 of boxes, whilst the other sex resort to the pit, of which the 
 price is the same, the disproportion is not so striking as it 
 otherwise would appear. 
 
 It is however as a spot exclusively dedicated to the worship 
 of Mammon, that New Orleans stands conspicuous. It is sur- 
 prising, what advances have been made in its material prosperity, 
 since the province was ceded to the Yankees. The French popu- 
 lation are every day losing, the British gaining ground, and I 
 know no better commentary on what would happen, were Lower 
 Canada to fraternize with the United States, than the present 
 condition and the future prospects of Louisiana. I should 
 have been delighted to bring Papineau here for a few days — it 
 would have cured him of his zeal for amalgamation with a 
 people with whom the poor French habitans of the New World 
 are so ill calculated to compete. 
 
 Indeed as a place of commerce New Orleans stands almost 
 unrivalled ; and the crowd of vessels that lines its quays aflfords 
 the most interesting, I might say the only interesting spectacle, 
 which a stranger, like myself, in this city of cotton and yellow 
 fever has to contemplate. Here are those gigantic steamers, 
 which communicate with the whole of that great western coun- 
 
 * It is a pity, that there is no regular meteorological register kept 
 at New Orleans. Though situated in the latitude of 29°, the same 
 as that of Bar'Dary, thu orange and lemon trees were ali cut uil a 
 few winters ago. Such are the vicissitudes of the climate. 
 
139 
 
 try, extending to the Rocky Mountains on the one side and 
 nearly to Canada on the other-here are trading vessels from 
 every civihsed country under heaven-and here arks, VS 
 bring down the produce of the interior, from the very sources 
 rGulf ofSo^^ ''' ^-^- --''' ^ ^^« ^-miUr?^ 
 Whilst contemplating all these unrivalled facilities for com- 
 merce, Icould not help reverting to the magnificent schemes 
 of Louis XIV who had designed this city for the embouch^e 
 of the products of that vast cglonial empire, extending from 
 Quebec through the whole valley of the Mississippi to Louis aT 
 which was to circumscribe the tide of British Emigration SS 
 the country east of the Alleghanies. 
 
 What mighty consequences flow from events which appear 
 at the time of only local importance! Had Wolfe been fniR 
 trajed in his bold attempt on Fort Diamond in 1759, the wK 
 of this immense continent might still have been in the hands of 
 France; the British settlers chfcked in their movements wLtward 
 by the existence there of an independent European nation, would 
 have become more stationary in their habits; the fear of inva- 
 sion from the West would have induced them to lean upon 
 Great Britain for protection, instead of desiring a separation 
 from her; or if, on the other hand, as Bancroft observes the 
 two great powers which divided between them the American 
 continent, could have consented to have been partners, instead 
 of rivals, the supremacy of the mother countries miffht have 
 been maintained to this day on both sides of the Alleghanies 
 
 it would lead me too far to speculate on the influence which 
 such a posture of the American continent would have had on 
 European affairs— how far, for instance, it might have prevented 
 the breaking out of the French Revolution, and the momentous 
 events which followed m its train— but one cannot help mar- 
 veUmg at the short-sightedness of the ministers who {governed 
 irance during the Regency, and the reign of Louis XV in al 
 Wmg those splendid possessions, which their predecessors had 
 laboured to secure by a long chain of forts, extending from the 
 mouth of the St. Laurence to Niagara, and from Pittsburff to 
 the mouths of the Mississippi, to be taken from them piece- 
 meal, and transferred to a rival power, without a struggle. 
 
 On Wednesday morning I went over the John Randolph 
 one of the largest of those floating palaces which steam navi- 
 gation has created. Besides the hold, comprehendinff the 
 greater part of the space within the vessel which hes below 
 the level of the water, there is, in the first place, a storv above 
 waier, m which are placed the engine, the fuel, and a hme 
 portion of the cargo. Over this is another designed for the 
 
 • 1 
 
f*i': 
 
 lift 
 
 140 
 
 passengers, containing, in its centre, a suite of three rooms 
 elegantly furnished, with a range of state rooms for sleeping 
 apartnients on both sides. The furthest of the three rooms is 
 exclusively set apart for ladies ; the second is the general dining- 
 room; the third the gentlemen's sitting-room; beyond are 
 the servants' offices. The state rooms, or sleeping apartments, 
 have windows or doors opening externally, so that they can be 
 kept sweet and clean, and there are in each two beds. Above 
 this second story is the hurricane deck, on which the passengers 
 may take the air, obtaining from this elevated position a good 
 view of the country. There is thus, if I mistake not, one 
 additional story in these boats beyond what the steamers on the 
 Hudson possess; and the whole, when properly tenanted 
 must constitute in itself a little world. ' 
 
 I then made an excursion in the train to Lake Pontchar- 
 train, five miles distant from the city. The rail-road passes 
 along a swamp more dreary and more impracticable than any of 
 those which I had seen in Carolina, and one can well understand 
 the sacrifice of life, which attended the constmction of a cause- 
 way, across such a country, during the summer months. The 
 Irish were, I am told, as usual, the chief volunteers on this 
 service of danger, and 5000 of them fell victims. At the ter- 
 mination of the rail-road, on the borders of the Lake, are a few 
 cafes and hotels, but no other houses, nor does the nature of 
 the ground admit of one's exploring the neighbourhood, at 
 least at this part. I therefore availed myself of the next car, 
 and returned speedily to the city, without seeing anything but 
 a wide expanse of water, the termination of which the eye was 
 unable to reach. 
 
 The steamers from Mobile to New Orleans proceed across 
 the Lake to the point at which the rail-road terminates, and are, 
 by means of the latter, brought into direct communication with 
 the city. Thus its construction has contributed greatly to the 
 advantages of this great emporium of commerce. 
 
 On my return, I looked into the Exchange buildings, which 
 have been erected by the American and French part of the 
 population in a spirit of mutual rivalship. Both are handsome 
 edifices, but the French is by far the most so. The princi- 
 pal room is a rotundo, the roof of which is divided into com- 
 partments, each embellished with some emblematical figure 
 painted in fresco. A gallery supported by pillars encircles the 
 interior of the building. The proportions are elegant and har- 
 monious. 
 
 Dined to-day at the house of a lawyer, and met there a New 
 England party, which therefore gave me but little idea of New 
 Orkctus society, i was told that few days pass here without a 
 duel— there was one yesterday, there is to be one this evening,— 
 
141 
 
 the time of their occurrence is a matter of perfect notoriety no 
 
 tTrf^S^rkotZl'^'^rl' '' ^^^.P«^^^' "-- '^"" «''i- 
 Tuf Smo"lu7fat^^^ ""^ '^^^"^-^^ *^^" - E"^^-d> 
 
 nlP^from"fhf M^""^]? f • '' ^i *^'y.^'^ ^^"^^' i" ^hich the peo- 
 
 wJ« ?/'w 1 «5^f^««"thern ports on the Mississippi. It 
 ZTJ^ r *'"^:, flat-bottomed, and roofed over with boards 
 leaving a covered cabm extending the whole length of the 
 vessel, about five feet m height. A portion of this was parti! 
 tioned off for a kitchen and bed-room, and seemed a snna 
 
 5rtt'^rf\l" ''^•^™" '"""^ their C stay S each ^ort^ 
 The rest of the cabm was a receptacle for the freight, which 
 consisted of hams, bacon, barrels of flour, &c. Before sTeam 
 boats were established, these arks formed^he only Si^Stf 
 
 rivrT'nr ^1r" 'H^PP^^ ^"^ ^^^^^ portions of the 
 supe^sededTf "' ^r "«\^«r,-.°"veying passengers is entirely 
 superseded, but much nierchandise is still transported in them 
 The owners of this ark had been about seven weeks in driS 
 down the stream from Cincinnati, touching at the different 
 villages, and selling their freight as they went along. When 
 arnved at New Orleans, they break up their boat, and return 
 ^^Z T^ 1^''' '^'T^' ^y '''^'^' ^^he price of uch a barge 
 tVlT' \ '"T '' ^^2"' '50 dollars, of which they get back for 
 
 united S. '^""J '^'''^'. 7^T ^^« ^ '"^»ly independence! 
 united with a courtesy and frankness of manner, about these 
 people, which prepossessed me in their favour. 
 
 ,nw" '^^"^^/ay* March 8th, I accepted Judge Porter's kind in- 
 
 £r'o?At.r^''^-^ V^^ ?^T^^^* ^iax, bound to the 
 ThffiL^ ^P^'' '"."^^^'^ the Judge's domain is situated. 
 
 b?rlr« nf ^K^tP'°'''5f prosperously up the Mississippi, the 
 borders of which seemed for the most part in a state of cSl iva! 
 ion. Seyerd sugar plantations lay to the right and left. These 
 omewhat relieved the monotony of the voy^e, which neverthe! 
 
 nd rtt"« f rf i^^ i'T ^^'"^ fl^'^"d often swampy, 
 and the trees and shrubs which covered their surface not yet in 
 
 the^vllWoTf pf ^b«"t.^h^ee o'clock in the morning, we reached 
 
 We were here, on ffettinff un. salnt«/1 K„ ♦i,^ a:^ i.. 
 
 inteffigence, that the water In the" Bayou ■;;as t™"*!;'^'^;^ 
 mit of our vessel's passing. We were therefore compeUed 
 
 l\ 
 
 ijifili 
 
 i.tipii 
 
mm 
 
 f%_. 
 
 
 H'. 
 
 1 
 
 1 ■ ' 1 
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 : 
 
 j ; 
 
 
 'iM 
 
 
 ijiiiiii 
 
 142 
 
 to remain all day opposite the village. A little steamer, bound 
 for lexas, came up m the course of the evening, and, as it drew 
 less water, proceeded by the same route without obstruction 
 1 he Judge however did not rehshthe idea of trusting himself in 
 8o rickety a concern, especially as it would not bring him within 
 twenty miles of home. We therefore waited a second night and 
 morning in the same spot. 
 
 Fell in with a good specimen of a village lawyer, dignified by 
 the name of Judge Button, an intelligent man, who knew a 
 httle of botany, geology, and nearly all the ologies. He pre- 
 sented me with tv/o specimens of snakes, and one of an horned 
 lizard from Texas, which has been called the horned frog, from 
 Its outward resemblance to that animal. 
 
 The whole of Saturday, the loth, we spent on board, in the 
 vam hope that the captain would run the risk of entering the 
 Bayou, but he was a French creole, and not a Yankee, and 
 therefore not adventurous enough to attempt it. 
 
 Accordingly by Sunday morning the Judge was fairly tired 
 out, and, having made up his mind to take an open boat, engaged 
 two free negroes to row us to his plantation. One of these was 
 the sharpest fellow I have seen of that colour, though with a 
 somewhat roguish expression, and having already worked out his 
 own freedom, was in the way, I should think, of acquiring a com- 
 petency. The distance was nearly fifty miles, owing to the cir- 
 cuit we were compelled to make ; first proceeding for about 
 twenty-five miles along an outlet of the Mississippi, called Bayou 
 fcjorel, which joins the Atchafalaya river, and then emerging into 
 Lake Chicou, a pretty large tract of water, which communi- 
 cates by a narrow channel with another much more considerable 
 one, called Le Grand Lac, or the Lake of Chetimaches. On the 
 border of this connecting channel is a sawmill, the proprietor of 
 which, an acquaintance of the Judge's, gave us supper and beds, 
 though I may mention, as an amusing proof of the simphcity of 
 manners m this district, that he had at first prepared only one 
 for the Judge and myself. 
 
 The Judge indeed had sufficient sympathy with English feel- 
 ings on these matters, to petition our host to accommodate us 
 with a bed apiece, but he told me afterwards, that his own ori- 
 gmal prejudices against this kind of partnership in sheets and 
 blankets had been to a considerable extent got over, by the 
 necessity to which, as a barrister on the circuit in these wild 
 parts, he had continually to submit, of tumbling into the first 
 bed of sufficient capacity that offered, no matter how many per- 
 sons might be its oecupants already — a custom absurdly attri- 
 buted to the grossness of American manners, but in reality 
 
143 
 
 arising out of the exigences of the occasion, which brings toge- 
 ther at such times a crowd of people, to spots often ZsesfnJ 
 
 reTaSlSl''Mi:fo7"'^'^r" '^ ^^'«^ cases kC; truly 
 bedfellows/ * ^^^'^^^'""^ ™^k^« P««Ple acquainted with strange 
 
 Early the foUoA^ng morning we proceeded on the lake tra 
 versed It, and on landing found ourselves not more than three 
 miles froni the Judge's house, from which however we were 
 separated by a swampy wood, not very pleasant to cro'ss and bv 
 a navigable river, the Teche. The jidge and myself however^ 
 together with his housekeeper, who had accompanied us from 
 
 ;I:ut'^hi"madTetf'th?]'°' ^'""^V^^ slougtand arrived 
 spatted wTth mud '^^ day opposite his plantation, quite be- 
 
 The Judge possesses a fine and fertile tract of land, extending 
 or nearly a mile on either side of the river Teche, XrconsLtf 
 for the most part of what was originallv nrairip hZ\^ ^"^^^^'^ 
 verted into sugar-fields. A beTTwlVdTo^W^^r KX t^^ 
 plantation on either side, and near the borders of the r"ver is an 
 almost regular hue of some of the finest Live Oaks I have ever seen 
 He has brought nearly 2000 acres into cultivation, and hala stS 
 of about 160 negroes, 40 horses, and a variety of other cat^e 
 He IS at present lodged in a small cottage, but is erect^nff a 
 handsome and commodious mansion. llhould not callTin 
 England very spacious, considered as the reJ^dence of one of 
 the argest proprietors in the country, but in Louisiana itTrf 
 markable enough to attract curiou'Wsois froTrnsiderab k 
 distances, so rare is it for the planters to aspire to anvthinJ hp 
 yond a cottage on their country estates. I ffi indeed freauen; - 
 proofs of their indifference to such kind of conveScel ?n the 
 mean dwellmg-houses that occur on the borders ofihe Mi^ 
 sissippi, associated with such large assemblages of nearo hu s 
 and^such expensive buildings forVinding anVprSng tS 
 
 1 spent eight days very pleasantly at the Judge's, whose ffood 
 t mper, wit, powers of memory, and conversational aTent made 
 FnJLTKP'f «ff r^Fdly enough. He had a good hbC of 
 English hooks, and It was gratifying to meet with, BucSd's 
 Bridgwater, and Whately's logic, within fifty miles^f the bor- 
 
 sing.nar beds, wbich II ^esj^:::^!^^ ^ ^^:::ri^ 
 
 and Niagara, constructed in anh.pnlonf,>5..^^r,„J J. . ^®.".4^^^ny 
 traveller was expected to take hi^-p^; within; feerSwT^^^^^ """''l 
 m the centre, and his head at the circumferenc^ of tlSe ^""' 
 
 *,f 
 
 
 IK:*!! 
 
144 
 
 Jirdfii 
 
 !«' 
 
 ;in' 
 
 '111 
 
 ders of Texas, and to hear Shakespear, Scott, and Byron quoted 
 familiarly amongst the wilds of Louisiana. 
 
 Nor was I left to his society alone, for we dined at the houses 
 of two of his neighbours, and met several of them at his hospi- 
 table table. One or two proved to be very intelligent men, the 
 rest respectable and hearty country gentlemen. From such 
 people the treatment of the negroes, so far as physical comforts 
 are concerned, is doubtless good. The Judge, I should think, 
 must be beloved by his own dependants, with whom, on reachiniJ 
 his estate, he shook hands, like a Feudal Lord amongst his Serfs, 
 receiving their congratulations on his return, and inquiring with 
 interest into their family concerns. His slaves are, 1 am sure, 
 liberally and kindly treated, but I cannot say that there were 
 any indications, either on the part of him or of others, that they 
 regarded them much in the light of morally responsible beings, 
 or made any efforts to instruct or enlighten them. I own, how- 
 ever, that my inquiries on such subjects were hmited, for I did 
 not think it fair to avail myself of my opportunities for secretly 
 investigating matters, which, I can see, all slave-holders avoid 
 as much as possible to discuss. 
 
 The practice of dirt-eating, I hear, prevails to a considerable 
 extent among the slaves in some of the neighbouring planta- 
 tions, and often proves an unsuspected source of disease, pro- 
 ducing disinclination for food, hstlessness, and marasmus. The 
 medical attendants sometimes are able to detect the existence of 
 this propensity, by examining, whether the walls of the hut, in 
 which the sick negro lives, bear any marks of having had their 
 plaster picked off, as if by the hand— for the morbid appetite 
 seems in these parts to be, not for unctuous kinds of earth, as 
 is the case \vith the savages whom Humboldt describes, but for 
 those of a gritty and loose consistence, such as mortar, lime- 
 stone, &c. 
 
 There appears to be a rooted impression among the planters, 
 that the negro race is not only inferior, but distinct— an idea, 
 which receives the more countenance, as it seems to palliate the 
 injustice of continuing to hold them in bondage. They say 
 however, with some truth, th^it we should act as they do, if 
 placed under the same circumstances, for that it cannot be ex- 
 pected, that the people of the South should be willing alone to 
 make the sacrifice, or that the great body of landed proprietors 
 should be prepared to give up every thing, for the sake of a 
 principle, and that, too, one of doubtful application.* 
 
 * It is with pain and regret that I see such a writer as Mr. Dickens 
 imprecating a curse upon the land of Virginia for fostering slavery; 
 for when I recollect that the institution was kept up a century ago by 
 
 not think that an Englishman is exactly the person to raise an outcry 
 
 I t\ 
 
aise an outcry 
 
 145 
 
 The abolition of slavery has hitherto been brought about in 
 one of two ways: either by a general sense of the superior ad 
 
 sTa3 Wlf rb'^H^'^S^' ''''''' - - tKorthern 
 states 01 America; or by physical compulsion, as in the case of 
 
 s to bf felSlan^^^^ ""'^'^ of ^hese method" i 
 
 18 10 De leared, can be put into operation with resnerf tn thl 
 
 southern states, so that the prospect of emincipat ^ n t^^^^^ 
 case would seem to be very distant ^'^""Pdiion m their 
 
 Dro'^ptf 'TaSn^A^'^' ^^y'^' ^^'•''^""^ «« the Judge's 
 
 feet^ in^ienlth ihi^h^r' TT^' ^^ ^^"^^ «»« ^^out three 
 
 .nnHi?,pi ?^ r c' f^°"^h 'h«t t^ice through the head 
 
 continued to live for at least an hour. I afterwards saw several 
 
 mendoner Th^'v'" '" "^f '' ^^^^^ «^ ^^^ Great LrSy 
 Adio?nW 7w^- f?'^'"'^ ^fy timid and harmless. ^ 
 
 unfuSv^he ChtL^^^^^^^ ^""^^ ^^°""d' to which, 
 
 uniu lately tlie Chetimache tribe were accustomed to removp 
 
 aeconirosed. Ihe bones had been packed in little on^n nt>i™„ 
 boxes, wh«=h were pUed one above the other on ttrmm't of f 
 
 7«r J^?'^r' T""^' '^^^^^ ^y ^ ™"^'-»''le live oak W 
 7""hese bones were some utensils beloneing to the §e 
 
 ™a;xt&t.Tsr;s^'''^^''- ' »-*e^-s*ei 
 
 ^.S.ri'''"^*.^''''^ ■' "">■ <^°""»"» '" *i8 country, and sines 
 wS sf ^f ''nme 'T'^ '" •!' *' °,"'y W^'' Posse^ssfng mS 
 
 rrSs^^oriing^Spri^i^^tbir^' -^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 on the same place could possibly have affordpd mp Tn ?k- ?• • 
 
 ^:!^:^^^^- ^^ -^-^^^^^ ^st 
 
 uJj;S'c^-T^ "^ *^."°^ to my friend Dr. Prichard of Bristol, who 
 of M^. «"»^^»"g ot ,t in his work on the Natural History 
 
 I \ (5 
 
 l.i ii 
 
li ' ' ._ f * 
 
 I will ' 
 
 4 ' 
 
 146 
 
 It is, I doubt not, rich in plants, but the season was too back- 
 ward to afford an opportunity of collecting them. The prairies 
 are said to be covered with a profusion of wild flowers in sum- 
 mer. ITiese prairies, when of moderate extent, as is the case 
 here, have much the appearance of an English park, clumps of 
 timber being scattered over them, as if by art, and a belt of 
 wood bounding them on all sides. 
 
 The district not being advanced enough in civilisation to take 
 advantage of such spots for country residences, they are either 
 left deserted, or are converted into sugar plantations. We can- 
 not indeed expect much taste to be evinced in selecting pic- 
 turesque spots for habitations, when we find the proprietors of 
 extensive estates often housed in cottages which an EngUsh baihff 
 would despise. 
 
 On Wednesday, March 21st, I took leave with much re- 
 gret of mv hospitable friend Judge Porter, whose undiminished 
 love for the Old Country leads me to cherish a hope, that he 
 will some day or other fulfil his intention of beating up my 
 quarters at Oxford, and of renewing in the Old World those 
 pleasant hours, which I have spent in his company in the 
 New.* 
 
 The Swan steamer, on its way to New Orleans, took me on board, 
 but it was not long before it gave me a specimen of the intermin- 
 able delays attendant on this mode of travelling.t In the night 
 we grounded in the lake, and it was late the next day before we 
 were got off. Then the taking in of cargo detained us three or 
 four times a day, and when we entered the Bayou, we were con- 
 tinually stopt by the abundance of drift timber carried down by 
 the stream. At last, as we approached Plaquemine, the rapid- 
 ity of the current became such, that the utmost power of the 
 steam scarcely sufficed to battle against it, and in one place the 
 greater part of the crew and passengers were obliged to land, 
 and tow the boat along. 1 bus we scarcely made one mile in the 
 hour, and did not reach the Mississippi till Saturday morning. 
 Another dajr was required to .bring us down to New Orleans, 
 and in the night, about three miles from the city, the pilot con- 
 trived to ground us again, so that we had to walk into town. A 
 
 * To my great mortification he came unexpectedly to Oxford, in the 
 dead of the long vacation of 1840, just a fortnight after I had started 
 for Paris. 
 
 t Yet a lady who was on board descanted upon the facilities afford- 
 ed for going to New Orleans at present, compared to the period which 
 she recollected prior to the introduction of steam-vessels, when the 
 whole of this long voyage was accomplished in the little canoes of the 
 country, and accoi'dingly occupied several weeks. 
 
147 
 
 part of this detention must, I think, be attributed to the irre- 
 gular habits and insubordination of the crew. The captain was 
 Himself a decent man but the pilots, engineers, .tewards? Tc 
 seemed to be commonly playing cards when not at work The 
 general character of the company was but so so, gambling was 
 cottonr.""''^ occupation, and their discourse^ugars^ Tnd 
 
 Indeed, I must at once admit, that Mrs. Trollope's and Cap- 
 tarn Hamilton s accounts of steam traveUing on the Western 
 waters have but too much foundation in fact, nor is the cha 
 racter of the people at New Orleans itself calc^d o remov; 
 
 t ""rl^tn^t ^''^T'T ''^''^ '^' ^«y^g« t« « leaves Ton 
 W? ..u^""^ f^'^^^r "'"^^'•^^^ '^^ ««^»e of the features 
 that present themselves, the reckless thirst after gain, the ab' 
 sence of relwous feehng, the coarse obtrusiveness of manner 
 and the indifference to those little attentions, which in X; 
 countries serve to disgmse the real selfishness of the individual 
 I know not whether Moore visited this part of the United State ' 
 but to no other citv in the Union do these lines of his so wel 
 apply, in none wouia there be so httle cause to accuse him of a 
 poet 8 license and exaggeration :— 
 
 Where every ill the Antient World could view, 
 Is mixed with every grossness of the New, 
 Where all corrupts, though little can entice, 
 And nothing's known of luxury, but vice. 
 
 On Sunday evening I went to the French theatre, it being the 
 
 only opportunity I was Hkely to have for seeing it! If not so 
 
 handsome, it is more tasteful and elegant than the one in the 
 
 American quarter of the city, and there was certainly more at! 
 
 LI \i '• '' ^u^ decorum-less Trollopism in short-than 
 
 18 observable in other American theatres. This arises, from the 
 
 hgher price of the boxes, which thus are set apart for a better 
 
 dressed description of people, and also from a rdic of French 
 
 pohteness among the C.x^oles. The price of the pit was a dol- 
 
 ar, hat of the box.s a dollar and a half. The ladies were prin- 
 
 c paUy of French extraction. They were for the most part plain, 
 
 at least I did not remark amongst the whole number more than 
 
 three or four pretty faces. The performances consisted of 
 
 French Vaudevilles, very tolerably acted. 
 
 On Monday I went out with Mr. Wylie to see the Race- 
 ground, which, un ike those in England, is inclosed by a high 
 wooden fence, so^that no one can even get a sight of the sport 
 WI...OU. paying tue entrance fee of a dollar. I am told, that in 
 spite of this high price, the area is commonlv crowded, so little 
 do the New Orleans people think of money. The course is 
 
 O 2 
 
 C-P'TX. 
 
 ill '■ 
 
 •<-J 
 
 1 
 
(■ 
 
 t 
 j 
 
 ! 
 
 1-. 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 
 ' M \i 
 
 ' if 
 
 1 
 
 
 148 
 
 circular, and nearly a mile round. There is a capital drive 
 leading to it, of about two miles, which seemn the only one which 
 the citizens possess for taking the air, so entirely cooped up is 
 the town bv woods and swamps. In this quarter is the fa- 
 vourite duelling ground, and as no secrecy is here thought ne- 
 cessary, the friends of both parties, and even indifferent persons, 
 collect, as in the tournaments of old, to witness the spectacle! 
 The number of duels throughout the year is said to averaf^e 
 at least one per diem. The willows, which abound here, were 
 already in full leaf. 
 
 On Tuesday I called on a Dr. Barton, and obtained from hirn 
 portions of the meteorological register, which he has kept for 
 several years past at New Orleans, and in other parts of Louis- 
 iana. In the evening I embarked on board the Cinderella, a 
 steamer bound for the Arkansas River, and thus took my leave 
 of New Orleans. I never left a large city with less regret, for 
 there is nothing either in the character of the place or of its neigh- 
 bourhood, to prepossess one favourably. Science and literature 
 seem almost unknown, schools are very rare, and, it is said, ex- 
 tremely bad, and the manner in which the people are crowded 
 together in their houses must prevent anything like privacy. A 
 spare bedrooin can hardly be obtained, and in general, at the inns, 
 two, three, and even four persons^ are billetted in an apartment 
 hardly larger than is sufficient to contain as many beds. In the 
 country it is even worse, for I have seen cottages, belonging to 
 wealthy planters, which could scarcely consist of more than three 
 or four rooms. 
 
 On Wednesday, March 28th, I started on board the steamer 
 Cinderella, bound to Little Rock and Port Gibson, on the 
 Arkansas river. The choice of a steamer is one of grave consi- 
 deration, for the various accidents that one is liable to render it 
 important to have a steady captain. The distance up the Mis- 
 sissippi, to the point at which the former river enters it, is about 
 628 miles, and aftenvards it is about 300 up the river, to the 
 town, or city, as it is grandiloquently termed, of Little Rock. This 
 the captain told me would take about six days, within which time, 
 I believe, in favourable seasons the voyage has been effected. We 
 however were not destined to have such good luck, for, owing to 
 the heavy freight with which the vessel was itself laden, together 
 with its having a large keel boat full of merchandise in tow from 
 the mouth of the Arkansas, and being moreover impeded by 
 the lowness of the water in that river, I did not arrive at 
 my destination till the eleventh day. This interval, on recol- 
 lert.inn. annpars to mp pvtromolir Kafvorj in ir>o!'l«T»* •f'^- •».«4-'u:^«. 
 
 can be more monotonous than the banks of the Mississippi, after 
 
149 
 
 alon, the western Ck'X^r^^^^^^^ 
 
 on board was hut so so notinAZrHL ■ U ■ ^"® company 
 
 but comprising some rouVh ^nH ^ ''''^'"^ '"^T*""^""'^^ 
 and reserved individual' T'thrnt P''«P«"derance of taciturn 
 in assertinff that Z a ■ '"'' "^ experience bears me out 
 
 irtInThe'C^h''"No7Tnd?e7tr^^^^ ^T ^^T""^^^" 
 delicacyinaskingquesdonsof as?r?n '^^* ^^^^ ^*^« ^he same 
 
 est prompts them ?o I so which In ^^''i''^" '""^'^'^ "' ^"'^'- 
 but that a lonJpr t;^! ? ,^" l^nghshman commonly feels, 
 
 ^elrahty of Tv ow^L 'f ''' '^'I^ ^""^^^ ^' '^e case wfth the 
 
 down with a^rapiditv that QU^?P h«Sl in ™'^^' '"'''" swallowed 
 tition Literals w A; 7 ^ • ^^^^^ "" ™y Po^vers of compe- 
 
 rd?and had CL"I': r"''',"^'."^ ^^^ ^«^^^^ ^own thdr 
 Ifound mjilfX^^^^^^ M"-*«r of an hour' 
 
 the dishes and pSaU abm f^^ h '^^^^^''f ^«« clearing away 
 hint to retire. Of course not ! ''> '''?? ?^ 8'^'"» ™« ^ broad 
 critical a oeriod anT.T ^ '^"'"'^ 9^""^^ ^^ ""^^ed during so 
 
 Sect ng K? Vu toulTeaTr 'T ''' ^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ 
 
 myaelf in some r.s^l "uck^Tt Toa '^^ 'haTselX/ 
 solitary female occnnipH tV,« i„j- V l- P^^^^^^- ^ne poor 
 
 to Pnr? ^/^^, "^^"-tjey consisted of traders from New Orleans 
 
 03 
 
 11 
 
150 
 
 !,? ■ It! ■■ 
 
 n 
 
 i ^' 
 
 I r 
 
 pitied much a poor Liverpool clerk, who had got a ituation, as 
 agent to a commercial house, at one of the remote ports on 
 the river. He seemed out of spirits at the thoughts of return- 
 ing, cut off as he would be from all society, excepting that of the 
 greatest blackguards and black-legs that the United States can 
 turn out. I observed a greater propensity to laud and magnify 
 things at home, in proportion to the ignorance of the indi- 
 viduals with respect to the concerns of other countries. One 
 vulgar fellow, who resided in a remote part of the state, vaunted 
 to me the superlative richness of the land in Arkansas, which 
 happened, at the spot to which he appealed, to be covered with 
 wood, and without a vestige of cultivation for miles round, and 
 ended by asking triumphantly whether we had any such in 
 England ? I contented myself with replying, that I really could 
 not answer his inauiry, until the ground he alluded to had been 
 cleared and brougnt mto cultivation. Another passenger, who 
 had come from New York state, and was a man of intelligence, 
 and quiet gentlemanlike demeanour, told rather a different tale 
 with respect to Arkansas. He assured me, that the existence 
 of slave labour was the very bane of the country, and deterred 
 all but capitalists who could afford to buy negroes from settling 
 there. "White men would never work where slaves existed, and 
 accordingly Arkansas has fallen far behind Michigan and other 
 newer states in the progress of its population, and is resorted 
 to by some of the worst and most desperate characters that the 
 country affords. Hence the frequency of duels and murders, the 
 latter continually occurring without any notice being taken of 
 them. Yet the flagrant case, of which all the papers were full, 
 where the President of the House of Representatives slaughtered 
 a Member in the midst of the whole assembly, could not, he 
 thought, be passed over altogether. It is expected to come to 
 a trial, though an Arkansas jury will with difficulty be brought 
 to convict a fellow citizen of a crime, which so many have 
 themselves committed. The ^murderer, one of the wealthiest 
 men in the state, is bailed for only 3000 dollars. 
 
 I here found, for the first time, the discomfort of having a 
 white servant. The very stokers, who submitted to all the heat 
 and drudgery of their laborious occupation, the wood-men at 
 the stations, who doomed themselves to a fatiguing service in 
 the midst of swamps and mosquitoes, affected astonishment, at 
 seeing a man of their own colour condescend to brush the 
 clothes, and answer the call v f an Englishman. I have no doubt, 
 from what I overheard, that he was looked upon as the most 
 degraded of beings, and I the most tyrannical of aristocrats ; 
 and as this feeling was likely to become stronger in proportion 
 as we proceeded farther into the West, I resolved at once to 
 drop the names of master and servant, and to place my faithful 
 
I situation, as 
 lote ports on 
 Its of return- 
 ng that of the 
 ed States can 
 
 and magnify 
 
 of the indi- 
 ntries. One 
 state, vaunted 
 cansas, which 
 
 covered with 
 ;s round, and 
 
 any such in 
 I really could 
 d to had been 
 issenger, who 
 f intelligence, 
 , different tale 
 the existence 
 
 and deterred 
 
 from settUng 
 s existed, and 
 fan and other 
 id is resorted 
 Lcters that the 
 
 murders, the 
 eing taken of 
 )ers were full, 
 js slaughtered 
 :ould not, he 
 d to come to 
 y be brought 
 3 many have 
 ;he wealthiest 
 
 ; of having a 
 :o all the heat 
 wood-men at 
 ng service in 
 snishment, at 
 to brush the 
 ave no doubt, 
 I as the most 
 if aristocrats ; 
 in croDortion 
 ',d at once to 
 ie my faithful 
 
 151 
 
 attendant on a footing of perfect equality until we got back to 
 the great cities of the East. 
 
 On looking over the Diary of each day's progress, I notice 
 few particulars worth recounting. 
 
 On the 28th we reached Plaquemine. 
 
 29th, Proceeded along an unsettled, thickly wooded, and 
 swampy country. 
 
 30th, Late at night we reached Natchez, which I therefore 
 lost the opportunity of seeing, for before morning we were many 
 miles away. ° ■' 
 
 31st In the night we reached Vicksburg, of which therefore I 
 also did not get a glimpse. By this time a change had iken place 
 in the character of the vegetation. There were no longer any 
 live oaks, Ror were the trees covered as heretofore with festoons 
 ot Carolina moss (Tillandsia usnoides). A little of this latter 
 was however seen occasionally still higher up the stream. 
 
 April 1st, Reached a neat little village called Providence, the 
 hrst 1 had seen since leaving Plaquemine, Natchez and Vicks- 
 burg having been passed in the night. 
 
 2nd, Thick forests of cotton wood (Populus canadensis) cover 
 the tace of the country on either side of the river. A few log- 
 huts, in which reside the woodmen, who supply the steamboats 
 with tuel, are the only vestiges seen of human habitation, 
 ihough trom the situations in which it is carried on, the em- 
 ployment of woodcutting is necessarily an unhealthy one, it is 
 nevertheless profitable. A good labourer may chop two chords 
 of wood per day, and each chord sells for two or two and a half 
 dollars. The timber may often be had for nothing, so that it 
 18 nearly all gam. On this evening we reached the mouth of 
 the Arkansas river. 
 
 ^Pji^ <^^^:. Detained the whole day, in consequence of a large 
 quantity of freight being to be put on board, and some repairs 
 required by the keel-boat we were to take in tow. Inspected 
 the site of a projected city— which looks very grand on paper, 
 and boasts of the name of Napoleon, but at present is embodied 
 m two houses and as many log-huts, scattered over a piece of 
 ground partially cleared, near the point of junction betvv^een the 
 
 Which surround it, but nevertheless an hospital is projected, to 
 receive patients who may chance to be taken ill on their voyage— 
 
;fli- 
 
 1 
 
 ' I 1 
 
 i 
 
 •i 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 ■ 
 
 . j 
 
 152 
 
 an institution much called for. Saw a bear at a distance in my 
 ramble through the woods. 
 
 4th, Proceeded up the Arkansas river, which meanders in a 
 remarkable manner, making continually beautiful bends. Very 
 few settlements occur on this part of the river, which is lined 
 by thick forests of cotton- wood. 
 
 5th, Scenery still wilder, though not wanting in beauty. As 
 indications of the scantiness of human habitations, we saw" a 
 bald eagle, and several wild turkies and cranes. 
 
 6th, A few mean and scanty settlements occur, before reaching 
 Pine Bluff, where there is a Uttle village. Banks now are become 
 higher, and below the alluvial soil of the Mississippi is seen 
 what appears to be a red marly sandstone rock. 
 
 7th, Scenery much the same. The white dogwood (Comus 
 alba) and red-bud (Cercis canadensis), now in very beautiful 
 and full bloom, appear on the banks. Retarded by the lowness 
 of the river. 
 
 At length, early on Sunday the 8th, I concluded my long 
 voyage by arriving at Little Rock— a village of about 1500 inha- 
 bitants, built on the top of a little eminence which overhangs 
 the river. It is the capital of the state. 
 
 Little Rock is a stragghng new looking place, containing 
 however a few respectable houses, and shewing some indi- 
 cations of improvement. It stands well on a blutf overlooking 
 the river, and the country on the opposite bank for some dis- 
 tance is sufficiently cleared of timber, and reduced to cultivation,, 
 to exhibit a rural appearance. The inn I went to was said to be 
 the best in the place, but proved slovenly and indifferent. The 
 custom of sleeping two in a bed seems to prevail, but I succeeded 
 in obtaining a room with two beds in it for myself and my man. 
 I here had to pay just the same'for him as for myself, so that my 
 expences were as high as they would have been at an English 
 hotel. Nothing could be more slovenly or worse supplied than 
 the table, and the beds were dirty in the extreme, and filled with 
 bugs. I was however deterred from leaving my quarters, as I 
 had heard a still more unfavourable character of the other inns, 
 and as the landlord, to give him his due, was, in his rough and 
 independent way, civil and obliging enough. 
 
 There are three churches in Little Rock, viz. a Methodist, a 
 Baptist, and a Presbyterian ; I went to the first, which was re- 
 ported to be the most numerously attended, but should guesd, 
 that tixere were not loo persons at the service. Allowing hov- 
 
 I 
 
US, we saw" a 
 
 153 
 
 ever that to be the number, and calculating the other two 
 at the same amount, we can reckon only 300 church-goinff 
 people out of a population of 1500 in the town, to which 
 must be added that of the neighbourhood, there being no 
 places of worship at all elsewhere for miles round The 
 preacher was mdifferent, not a ranter, if I may judge by what I 
 heard, but a man of very moderate attainments. 
 
 One of my first cares on getting to Little Rock, was to obtain 
 a conveyance to the Hot Springs, and, as I did not fancy the 
 stage, 1 at length decided on hiring a carriage and two horses to 
 convey me there and back. For this I was obliged to pay fifty 
 dollars (more than ten pounds), which, as I was to be back in 
 seven days, seemed a pretty handsome price. There appeared 
 however to be no alternative, if I wished to have the command 
 of mv time, and to convey the necessary apparatus for examin- 
 ing the waters. 
 
 Accordingly, after dinner, on Monday the 9th of April, I started 
 for the springs, and passed over an indiflferent road cut through 
 a forest chiefly consisting of ^r, with here and there a thriving 
 plantation in the midst of the wood, in which a portion of land 
 had been cleared and cultivated with Indian corn, or converted 
 into an orchard. By sunset we had gone only about sixteen 
 miles, and as a little village was before us, the driver recora- 
 mended the expediency of begging a night's lodging of some of 
 Its inmates, there being only a miserable inn to be had some 
 miles beyona. He succeeded accordingly in persuading a very 
 decent family to take us in, and we sat down to a plentiful 
 supper of coffee, corn-bread, bacon, wild turkey, and venison. 
 Ihe sleeping accommodations were somewhat less ample, but I 
 succeeded m securing a separate berth to myself, whilst James, 
 whose English prejudices revolted at the idea of sharing the 
 other bed which the room contained with the driver, stretched 
 himself on the floor. The family had recently emigrated from 
 Alabama, and had no great supply of furniture, but they evi- 
 
 En land "" ' '^^" ^^'*'''°' ""^ *^^ '^"® condition in 
 
 The next morning, after a breakfast much of the same sub- 
 stantial character as the supper, we again started. The land- 
 lady made no charge, but was well satisfied when I put into her 
 hand three dollars for myself and man. The expense of the 
 driver and horses, with which I had nothing to do, was one 
 Mar and a half. We proceeded by what was called the short 
 roaa .0 the springs, which however proved the longest ; for bad 
 
 as was that of thp Ha^r r.r«i/.o.i; ;r J ___.i^ * . "^" 
 
 fi,„ L- r ' — — ^ j---v_.=i»g, iL piuvcu vusiiy supenor to 
 
 the one which we were now, m consequence of the advice of a 
 
 .0- 
 
 :i I 
 
154 
 
 .^^ k. 
 
 
 
 "■' 
 
 man we met, induced to make trial of. It was a forest the whole 
 way, but the trees had been partially cleared along the line which 
 was intended for the road. Every pace we took, a huge stump 
 of a dissevered tree thrust itself up in the middle of the track, 
 rendering it impossible for the horses to proceed faster than a walk! 
 The direction too in which we were to go was such, as obliged us 
 to cross all the little hills which intervene between the Arkansas 
 and Washita rivers, the district intermediate being, as they say 
 in America, a rolUng country. Accordingly, although we 
 started at seven in the morning, and proceeded uninterruptedly 
 without bating the horses, all day, yet at sunset we had only 
 gamed about twenty-eight miles ; and finding the road too bad 
 to travel on in the dusk, we were driven to beg a lodging at a 
 farm-house. Here the accommodations were even inferior to 
 those of the day before. The farmer had but a single apart- 
 ment for parlour, kitchen, bed-room, and all, containing three 
 beds, out of one of which he and his wife had emerged on our 
 arrival. A supper of coffee, eggs and bacon, was however 
 speedily prepared ; and, by dint of close packing, the farmer 
 contrived to accommodate the driver and a Yankee, whom I had 
 allowed to sit on the box, with. a share in one of the three beds, 
 which harboured already himself, his wife, two children, and a 
 boy. 
 
 As for myself, and my man, we took up our quarters by 
 preference on the floor. The free ventilation, which took place 
 through the logs, prevented the room from feeling close with 
 80 many people sleeping in it. The farmer, though rough, was 
 a very civil, and an intelligent man, and his charge was so mo- 
 derate, that I chose to give him more than he demanded. I 
 should guess him, from various circumstances, to be far 
 above want j yet he contented himself with a log hut, such as 
 none but a common labourer would be contented to occupy in 
 Europe. ^ 
 
 On Wednesday mornings April nth, after a substantial 
 breakfast, we accompanied our host in a chase after a wild 
 turkey, which I had a great ambition to kill and stuff for our 
 Museum at Oxford. The females are decoyed by imitating the 
 gobble of the turkey-cock, in which the back settlers are very 
 expert, but on this occasion the stratagem was tried unsuccess- 
 fully; for though we saw several, and chased them through 
 the wood, we never got within gunshot of any one. My man 
 made several other attempts, but always in vain. 
 
 After this little excursion we proceeded on our journey to the 
 Hot Springs, and arrived there about the middle of the day, 
 without any accident, notwithstanding the badness of the road. 
 'I'he accommodations there are wretched enough, consisting of 
 
155 
 
 afewlo,? huts through which the wind passed at every crannv 
 On the first night of my arrival, the thermometer sunk to the 
 freezmg pomt; and all the great coats 1 could pile over me did 
 no"^ .prevent the cold from reaching me most sensibly whilst I 
 
 The hot springs all issue from the side of the hill which 
 bounds the valley on the east, with the exception of one which 
 flows froni the western side close at its base. The ridire 
 18, on both sides, pretty steep, and may be about 300 or 400 
 feet high. It consists of the same quartzose or chertv rocks 
 which extend nearly from Little Rock, and which I saw f-- the 
 first time, alternating with clay-slate, in the cliflT on which^hat 
 city IS erected. The base of the rock however consists of a 
 dark coloured clay-slate, which appears to dip under the other 
 
 ?• ^°'n^^^ ^" ^,°"^® P^^^^^ ^^'^" ^or 100 feet from the rivulet 
 which flows at the bottom of the valley, the rock is covered 
 over with a coating of calcareous tuff tinged with iron, and of 
 a dark colour, which the water of the various hot springs has 
 from time to time deposited on the rock which they flowed over 
 It is remarkable that the stalactite now forming is perfectly 
 white: so that some change seems to have taken place in the 
 course of time with respect to the character of the waters, if we 
 he^i "d "^^"^^ "^ *^^ incrustations they have left 
 
 The highest temperature I obtained from any one of the 
 r?«o"^Vi°^ ^"^^"'^ \ examined fifteen), was 148^ the lowest 
 118 . Ihere wug a ferruginous deposit from one or two, but 
 the quantity of iron present in the water was scarcely appreci- 
 able bv any test. Calcareous carbonate and sulphate seemed 
 to be the chief mgredients, and about 1.9 grains of solid matter 
 were obtained from a pint. 
 
 The general appearance of the neighbourhood seemed pictur- 
 esque; and when the forests are somewhat cleared, and a portion 
 Of the land has been brought into cultivation, there will be 
 many beautiful rides and walks within a few miles. At present 
 he country on all sides is so completely embosomed in wood 
 that there is no getting an extensive prospect, even from an 
 eminence. 
 
 Most of the springs emitted bubbles of gas, which I examined 
 m the usud manner, namely with potass for carbonic acid, 
 to consist Pf ^P^®^"® ^^^ oxygen, and which I thus determined 
 
 Carbonic acid - - 4. o 
 
 Nitrogen - - - 92. 4 
 Oxygen - - - - 7. 6 
 
 shewing, that in this, as in other instances of the same kind 
 
 
 • ,( 
 I 
 I 
 
 ill 
 
 I 
 
1: 
 
 (1 
 
 i 
 
 ! 
 
 ( i 
 
 156 
 
 which have fallen under my observation, the atmospheric air had 
 been deprived of a part of its oxygen by some process going on 
 in th^ interior of the earth, connected probably with the cause 
 that produces the high temperature of the waters. 
 
 On Saturday, April 14th, I again started on my return to 
 Little Rock, taking another and rather more circuitous route, 
 which was somewhat less difficult than the former. The cha- 
 racter of the rock was, as before, quartzose, until we drew near 
 the Magnet Cove, a hollow between two hills, so called from 
 being composed of magnetic ironstone, strongly attracting the 
 needle. The hills, which enclose, as it were, this formation, are 
 granitic, the only ones of that description I have seen in the 
 neighbourhood. The hmits of the ironstone appear to be de- 
 fined by the red character of the soil, and, judging by that cri- 
 terion, I consider that it extends for about half a mile in the 
 direction in which our road lay. We afterwards found ourselves 
 on the same quartzose rock as before, and this I continued to 
 trace till we reached Little Rock. The first twenty miles from 
 the springs were so difficult from the badness of the roads, that 
 it was nearly sunset before we had accomphshed this distance. 
 We then entered the high-road from Little Rock to the h"] 
 River, which was considerably better; but the night being dark, 
 thought it advisable to seek a lodging at the house of a preacher] 
 a Mr. Cornelius, who appeared a respectable person of the 
 Methodist persuasion. His accommodations were of the same 
 description as those we had before met with, consisting, be- 
 sides the kitchen, of a single bedroom, with a couple of beds in 
 each. One of these was already occupied by a stranger, the 
 other was designed for James and myself; but as I declined 
 adopting the manners of the country in that particular, a third 
 bed was made up for him on the floor, and, in a fourth, two 
 other persons were accommodated. The room therefore was 
 tolerably well tenanted ; but as it was a log hut, with the inter- 
 stices not filled up, there was ventilation enough. I should 
 not forget, that Mr. CorneUus read us a lesson from the New 
 Testament, sung two hymhs, and delivered an extempore 
 prayci before we retired to bed. 
 
 The next morning, early after breakfast, we proceeded 
 towards Little Rock; and as the road was now better, ac- 
 complished the remaining thirty-five miles before eight 
 o'clock in the evening. We crossed several rivulets, the most 
 considerable of which was the Sahne, which, from the width of 
 its bed, must, in wet seasons, be a considerable stream, but which 
 I scarcely found deej> enough for bathing, at the time we crossed 
 it. The general character of the country mi resembled what 
 we had before passed through, being a forest ciuoily of fir and oak, 
 
 tUntri n fpw H<»anfiftl1 cr>»nr>iT flr><irai.o ini-ot^cr^n-^n^ '' ..C „.'U:_l. it.- 
 ,..,,, .,j,5isig iivrtrvio iiilCiopCiOCU, -.."i WUiCil lUC 
 
 May-apple (Podophyllum peltatum) was the most common. 
 
m extempore 
 
 great a distance to give uTl^St^lt fe^^^^ "' '°° 
 conseauence of two trUr ^raef S:;r^^^^^^^^ 
 
 p ace n the Dresencp of .11 fi,i I .' *'' <'™' took 
 that timeassSed and that ItTT^'^"' ""■? ' ■'g'^l'""'-''. "t 
 
 of the indiirere„rwith which bloodshed^ """"^■'V?. P-'oof 
 
 butit is not e.^Slhafhe w"u bV foSTif.r"^ '''^ '"=-' 
 
 whSritttuS "It Kete^ii '^"""'^^ '" 
 ago, an old man by the name of ^^£0 "whLh'/r',''?'^ 
 
 hint, or pe^hap. 5f ^^^r^lri^KZ^Ue^t 
 
 r t |bf ^„ - To^- r dEH?;bf -'r 
 
 of Little Rock, met his an agoLt DoLk. f. ^' '"^ ^^^ l^'''^' 
 
 ^^^i^rS^^T^^rt:^^^ »™- are i„. 
 Arkansas 1 have been astoniJheZt the'colt'US^'whiS 
 
 i ■ II 
 
158 
 
 quiet orderly men talk of such a man killing another j for the 
 word murder is never employed. 
 
 The assizes thronged the mn at Little Rock to such a degree, 
 that it was with difficulty I could get a bed at all, and that bed 
 harboured such a host of domestic enemies, that I scarcely closed 
 my eyes the whole night. I hterally never yet met with a place 
 so infested with bugs as Little Rock. But I must submit to my 
 fate, for there is here httle choice of accommodations, especially 
 at such a period as the present. The lowness of the river has 
 in a great measure prevented the steamers from plying as usual j 
 and one that attempted it sunk, a day or two ago, by striking a 
 snag. My chance therefore of proceeding by water seems 
 rather remote. 
 
 The uncertainty as to whether I should obtain a water con- 
 veyance to the mouth of the river, within a reasonable time, led 
 me to adopt the expedient of purchasing horses, and pursuing 
 my journey to St. Louis by land, leaving my luggage to follow 
 by water. The horses were not obtained without difficulty, and 
 purchased at a price exceeding considerably their real value. 
 One of them, for which I gave sixty-five dollars, would not 
 have been amiss, had it not been for an unfortunate trick of 
 stumbhng which he had acquired ; but the other, a pony, was 
 60 slow and heavy in his gait, that it required a constant exer- 
 tion to urge him forwards. He had also another defect which 
 I shall allude to presently, and consequently was dear at the 
 price I gave for him, which was fifty-five dollars. I had also 
 to provide myself with saddles, bridles, saddle-bags, and the other 
 paraphernalia requisite, which were only to be had of a very 
 inferior description, at a place fike Little Rock. The obtaining 
 of these occupied the whole of two days, so that it was not till 
 half-past three on Wednesday afternoon that I was enabled to 
 take a final leave of the inn, which I did with no small degree 
 of satisfaction ; for the slovenly habits of its conductors, and 
 the rough, not to say ruffianly, demeanour of those who fre- 
 quented it, had given me a disgust to every thing connected 
 vdth the place. 
 
 Accordingly on the afternoon of Wednesday, April i8th, I 
 and my man James— no longer to pass as my servant, but to be 
 metamorphosed at each place we came to, either into my son, 
 my nephew, or my friend, as the fancy might direct— mounted 
 on our respective Rosinantes, and sallied forth from Little 
 Rock.* 
 
 * In consequence of this new rangement, he was designated, 
 most commonly by the people we met, as tiie yuunij ^enileman, in 
 
159 
 
 We first were ferried across the Arkansas, still a considerable, 
 though somewhat shallow river, and then journeyed on throuffh 
 a continued forest, uninterrupted by any vestiges of human 
 habitation, till we reached a farm-house, kept by a person of 
 the name of Kellog, ten miles from Little Rock. The country 
 over which we had passed was what is called rolling, that is 
 uneven without any considerable hills ; and the substratum 
 consisted, hke that on the southern side of the river, of sand- 
 stone and quartz rock. We had here no very favourable speci- 
 men of Arkansas fare and accommodation, or, if the landlord 
 was not belied, of the morals of the country. With regard 
 to the fare, it consisted, for supper, of coffee, greasy bacon fried 
 m Its own fat, Indian corn-bread, and doughy cakes, baked 
 without yeast m an iron vessel, heavy and indigestible. 
 
 The party at the inn consisted of two young Arkansas farmers, 
 going to Little Rock ; of a lodger, whose sister occupied a very 
 equivocal post as housekeeper tr) the holder of the farm ; and of 
 a drunken, uproarious Texian, who, unfortunately for our repose 
 was too well seasoned, to be reduced to a state of insensibility 
 by the hberal draughts of liquor which he imbibed, and who 
 therefore, kept us awake during a considerable part of the 
 night. There was only one sleeping room for the whole party 
 in number six, and it contained but two beds ; a third however 
 being added, by the expedient of laying a mattress upon the 
 floor with a blanket or two stretched over it. One of these 
 beds was appropriated by the two young Arkansas farmers who 
 were travelling together, another was occupied by the lodger, and 
 the third by myself, whilst the drunken Texian and my servant 
 stiU remained unaccommodated. It seemed therefore plain to 
 me, that I must submit to having a bedfellow, of one kind or 
 another, on this occasion ; and my principal apprehension was 
 lest that person should be the stranger whose whole demeanour 
 and appearance was anything but attractive. I therefore be- 
 came by comparison reconciled to the idea of sleeping with my 
 own servant, who was at least cleanly, sober, and well con- 
 ducted ; whilst the drunken Texian, J"ter he had wearied and 
 disgusted us for a sufficient time with a great deal of ribaldry 
 and grossness, tumbled into the bed of which the lodger had 
 already possessed himself. It was altogether a rare sample of 
 what I should have to encounter for a fortnight to come in tra- 
 velling through this wild country — an effectual cure for any 
 remnant of European fastidiousness, or aristocratical hauteur, 
 that might still linger in my constitution. 
 
 contradistinction to myself, who went by the name of the old manr-aa 
 impeachment on my juvenility, which I bore, I tnist, with a better 
 
 grace, than Mrs. Trollonft annpars to ha"o A^^r^n ♦^^ —r v~ 
 
 title so mortally offensive in her ears. 
 
 P2 
 
 I* ; 
 
 I i 
 
I 1 1 
 
 -im 
 
 160 
 
 At five o'clock the next morning we were roused by the 
 entrance of our landlord into the bedroom, and, thougli but 
 httle refreshed, I was not sorry to leave my berth, and perform 
 my ablutions, accordmg to custom, in the open passage between 
 the two rooms compo-:,';- -.ms respectable house of enter 
 tamment. A breakfast, of much the same character as the 
 srjjper of the day precedmg, followed ; after which we each 
 momited our respective steeds, and I found to my horror that 
 theTexian,who seemed none the worse for his night's debauch 
 was joggmg on by the same road with myself, and was bound 
 to the same haven, namely to St. Louis in Missouri. To have 
 proceeded long with such a rohck' ig, .oy^tering sort of com- 
 panion would not have suited me; but after a hw miles' ride 
 he saved me the trouble of parting company with him, by turning 
 mto a farm-house, where it seemed he had some acquaintances 
 and we lost sight of him, I am happy to say, for ever. He was a 
 good specimen however of that loose, reckless, dare-deyil class 
 of adventurers, who hover on the borders of civilisation, divid- 
 ing their time between the prairies of the west and the nevvlv 
 settled portions of the United States, at home everywhere 
 careless of aiificulties and privations, ever ready for a lark' 
 rough and familiar in their manners, ^vith an iron constitution' 
 and wilhng and able to engage in anything except what might 
 demand steady and settled habits of industry. ^ 
 
 By midday my servant and myself had accomphshed sixteen 
 miles of a rough and stony road, through an uninterrupted 
 torest. We there found a log house of very humble pre 
 tensions, perfectly open at top, and admitting air at every 
 cranny— no inconvenience this in such weather as we were 
 favoured with, but by no means agreeable, one should think 
 during the winter months, even in tais southern latitude We 
 found however somewhat better fare, wild turkey forming the 
 staple of our dinner, an article far preferable to the bacon of 
 the day preceding. 
 
 After dinner we pursued our way through a similar rolling 
 country, and arrived before sunset at a reallv comfortable farm- 
 house, belonging to a person of great respectability and pretty 
 large possessions, named Walker. We found there one of the 
 best specimens of an American yeoman, with somewhat of a 
 Presbyterian cast about him, it is true, and without the hearti- 
 ness of an Enghsh farmer, but yet civil and obliging His 
 wife and daughters were of a superior cast ; and there were 
 two young men, one his son, the other a visitor, who seemed 
 to belong to a higher grade of society than the persons we had 
 hitherto met. No spirits were allowed to enter the house a 
 httle circumstance alone sufficient to denote the difference be 
 tween the Arkansas and the English farmer, particularly as 
 
 w 
 
oused by the 
 1, though but 
 , and perform 
 ssage between 
 ise of enter- 
 iracter as the 
 hich we each 
 y horror, that 
 ht's debauch, 
 id was bound 
 Liri. To have 
 sort of com- 
 w miles' ride, 
 m, by turning 
 cquaintances, 
 er. He was a 
 re-devil class 
 sation, divid- 
 nd the newly 
 
 everywhere, 
 y for a lark, 
 
 constitution, 
 t what might 
 
 ished sixteen 
 minterrupted 
 humble pre- 
 air at every 
 
 as we were 
 ihox'.ld think, 
 atitude. We 
 
 forming the 
 the bacon of 
 
 milar rolling 
 ortable farm- 
 ;yand pretty 
 re one of the 
 mewhat of a 
 it the hearti- 
 liging. His 
 i there were 
 who seemed 
 sons we had 
 the house, a 
 iff'erence be- 
 
 uuu 
 
 as 
 
 161 
 
 fe'found"^^ "° substitutes, in the way of wine, beer, or cider, to 
 
 Mr. Walker informed me, that when he first established him- 
 selt m this tarm, he had no neighbour nearer than Little Rock 
 which IS from 40 to 50 miles distant. Since that time othei 
 settlers have taken land in places intermediate, but there is still 
 of course a great dearth of society. Indeed, the few opportunit S 
 these backwoodmen enjoy for learning much on any matters be- 
 yond the sphere of their own pursuits, will account for the 
 scanty stock of conversation they seem in general to possess. 
 InteUigent and shrewd as they are in their^wn transaction 
 they are a taciturn, and certainly not a joyous people 
 
 Were it not for these drawbacks, and others arising out of the 
 lawless habits of the people, the situation of an Arkansas 
 farmer, of respectability and substance, like Mr. Walker, would 
 be not an unenviable one. Where the negroes are chiefly em- 
 ployed m farming concerns, and are not numerous, the institu- 
 tion of slavery assumes something of a patriarchal character, and 
 each propnetor may be regarded in tba light of a country squire, 
 having much time at his disposal, and exerting a species of 
 feudal sway over his dependants. f " vi 
 
 What land he cultivates yields abundant returns, without 
 manure or previous preparation, but his chief support is derived 
 from his hogs, which find subsistence mainly in the woods, and 
 from his herds, which at one season are sent to fatten in the rich 
 marshes near the Mississippi, and at another are brought back 
 to the pastures nearer home. As to the sheep, a stock il seldom 
 kept m this country on account of the losses sustained from 
 wolves, which still abound in the forests. 
 
 James and myself had here no difficulty in gettms separate 
 beds and even a room to ourselves; and the supper was^com- 
 para ively speakmg, excellent. The only unhospitable treat- 
 ment I met with was from the doffs, who, in a cmmtry so in- 
 fested with wolves as this, are necessarily of a savage! breed 
 or, to use the queer expression of the country, very severe On 
 going a few paces from the house in the morning I was as'sailed 
 by half a dozen of these ferocious brutes, and if mv landlord 
 had not come to the rescue, might have been torn to pieces In 
 another farm-house where the same breed was kept, a traveller 
 I was told, confined to his bed from illness, was actually attack-' 
 ed m his very room by one of them, who, on entering it set 
 ap a most furious howl, and thus fortunately brought the fa 
 mily to his assistance before any serious damage was perpetrated" 
 In consequence of the savage propensities of these animals it is 
 usual for a stranger, when he comes up to a house which he 
 „ni-i u-'u -jii-.i^i.. .,). ine nigut, uui lo emer tne court- 
 yard, which commonly btands in front, until he has shouted out 
 
 P3 
 
 1:^ 
 
 - 
 
 i \'. 
 
 - l\' 
 
 f 
 
 ' '"'. 
 
 
 ' ■; 
 
 
 " 1 ''■' 
 
 1 
 
 P 
 
 I 
 
 't 
 
1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 ' '^:. 
 
 
 to 
 
 
 "*j|!>. 
 
 .^f 
 
 
 i 
 
 ^*:i^ If 
 
 162 
 
 to the inmates his wishes. So lonff as he remains outside of the 
 enclosure, the dogs m general content themselves with settini? 
 up a howl of defiance, but, should he enter the court-yard unin- 
 vited, the consequences might be serious. This day we accom- 
 plished about thirty miles, the weather being excellent for tra- 
 velling; the sun bright, but the air still somewhat chilly. 
 
 Friday, 20th, we started at half past six from Mr. Walker's cora- 
 tortable dwelling, where the charges for bed and board were as 
 reasonable as thev had been at the former wretched quarters 
 namely, about a doUar and a half (6s. 6d.) for two men and two 
 horses. 
 
 We had scarcely however journeyed on four miles when a 
 disagreeable adveiiture befel us. Whilst James was using the 
 fowling i)iece, and taking aim at a bird— I in the mean time being 
 in charge of both the horses— my own, who had but recently 
 been caught in the prairies, and cherished, I presume, a fond 
 recollection of his days of liberty, seized an opportunity to wrest 
 the bridle from my grasp, and darted off". I know not how it 
 was, but his companion contrived to follow his example, and in 
 the twinkling of an eye both of our steeds darted off helter- 
 skelter into the wood, kicking and prancing, as if the devil was 
 at their heels, until they had utterly dispossessed themselves of 
 saddles, saddle-bags, and all the various trappings which could 
 remind them of their state of servitude. To collect these seve- 
 ral articles, and to pile them in a mass, was my own humble 
 and vexatious office; but James pursued the fugitive steeds 
 until his strength and breath failed him, and after having had 
 the mortification of witnessing more than once his own more 
 quiet hack, when he had nearly got up to him, enticed away by 
 his companion, who, every time he shewed a disposition to stop 
 began to bite him in the flanks, and played various tricks to 
 incline him to proceed. 
 
 It was nearly two hours that I remained, like Patience on a 
 Monument, seated on the pile of baggage which I had contrived 
 to collect, ruminating on my misfortune, calculating the many 
 hundred miles in all directions through which the emancipated 
 hacks might range unimpeded, and puzzling myself as to wha* 
 possible course I should pursue, in order to reach my intended 
 destination, or even to return to the point from whence I start- 
 ed, when behold, to my infinite delight, James appeared iu 
 sight^ accompanied by one of the inmates of the farm house, in 
 which I had slept the night before, and leading in triumph the 
 two captive horses by their broken bridles. *'I reckon, stranger," 
 said myfriend,as he approached me, "you found yourself in rather 
 an unhandsome fix to-day,"— 2i proposition which certainly did 
 not admit of being controverted. The horses, if, sppms hnH h^pn 
 
163 
 
 they, like wise creatures rnffp.1 Kb ?^ themselves once in it, 
 left^n the -^^r^^^^^ 
 
 premises, and there, as luck wr..ld ' ve it the farr^' ^^^^^'^ 
 of his sons, recognised the fimifi , A ^^'^"^er, or one 
 
 stranger wh^ had^o^ed vi h "^ T < ; 'ltVT^''''L''^ '^' 
 cepted their further progress ./us ' fh. ''''' ^nd inter- 
 tune in the world. / vvL fnab d?' •' 4ceedTl^- °^ ''" 
 though with my paraphernalia n ^ \lanirhfpT K '^ '''''"^^' 
 treatment they had met with nnH th« r'^^P'^^'^ted by the rough 
 
 fresher for haling sc^nVj ed so minv ^n^lff ' '^^^"^f^^^^ "ot tL 
 ,. Accordingly, a?ter thifm'hTpTc&t r^lv L?""^^^' 
 nner, and nine more by niffht-fali T ff % "^ ^'^^^ *» 
 her farm house, of dimLsfn«f^Jjhll^"^" ^^h an- 
 
 other fkrm ^^:e:7^^'^- Jj^^^}, with an- 
 nearly as great, as those of the nightTrecedina rt '''"'^^- '' 
 tor, Mr. &gnus, well deserved the name he bSe ^fe P^^^^^" 
 opulent farmer, of portlv dimpn^innr ! "i . ■ ,. ® ^^^« ^n 
 good.living, wiih mL oLthnXl, a^nlwit^h less Ta'p' '' 
 byterian, cut, than his neighbour m; Walker llJf ^'^'" 
 here substantial and good but as ns, Ilfl,. •"• r ^^^^ ^^^ 
 was scanty. A single room was Xf ^ . P/ovision for sleeping 
 there were^ix, iSdinaTme. f S^ ^/^' ^?''^'' ^^ ^^ora 
 were only threrThe^ other four ?^""^^' "?^ "^ ^^^« ^^ere 
 settled thLselves in two of hele I HT. ■"'"'''''. ^^^'^"^ 
 strange bed-fellow, and consequent l seJ^^^ 
 by getting a mattrass spreadTr 'xLV^er^^^^^^^ T'^^' 
 
 a proceedmg, which excited the wonder of the rP«. I ^""""'r^ 
 not understand what obiectinn fW f^ u ^^^^' "^^^ could 
 
 of the party ,„deed said, that for his oart hi hL .L ^?* 
 quartered ivith any number under hi?f IaI ■ """^ ^ 
 than lay on the bare boards and tWf^ '™' '" ^ ^ood bed, 
 could hLdly sleep «vithTn7eo™fo;'?y &""''"■' '''"". he 
 
 ^a.^!;p%P^rtelS»:^r^^^ 
 
 ^St?S.V„"tta^,C;rotee''"^-^^^^^^^ 
 whole of the Western pofulatL aS ceS ''''™''"'^' *e 
 anguage and demeanour a more Kentlemari&^^ '¥' 
 longs to the yeomanry of aristocratfrcortrLs no wl'h'^",-'''- 
 the greater roughness of their exterior ' "'"*"''^*™dmg 
 
 Saturday morning, 2ist, after payinff Mr Mairnii«'= Kin i.- i 
 was no more than a doUar for a^fo^r he dfd L""t .^"h "!','P-!' 
 ^" «» a uad name bycharging travellers high-weproceededTo 
 
 '■I 
 
 ,'ii;!| 
 
 |(':ii 
 
: rm\ 
 
 'HM 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 '■T 11 
 
 f 
 
 164 
 
 breakfast, a distance of nine long miles, to the borders of the 
 Little Red River. 
 
 No travelling could be more delightful than that through the 
 forests, during the early hours of morning, at this fresh though 
 genial period of the year. With our aj)petites sharpened by 
 exercise, it was disappointing enough to meet with no better 
 entertainment at the close of a long ride, than was afforded by 
 a miserable log hut, in which coffee and milk, without even 
 sugar to qualify it, together with bad bacon and some shreds of 
 smoke-dried venison, constituted th^ sum total of our break- 
 fast. The day becoming hot, the thermometer mounting up to 
 84" in the shade, I was induced to bathe in the Red River, in- 
 stead of proceeding at once on our journey, and afterwards 
 strolled into the neighbouring woods, where I saw the cypri' 
 pedium pubescens growing under the shade of the trees in great 
 abundance. 
 
 I afterwards dined on an old stringy fowl, and then pro- 
 ceeded, cursing, as I went, the parsimony of the proprietor of 
 this miserable dwelling, who is, I am told, a rich German far- 
 mer, well able to provide the common comforts of life to his 
 guests, especially as they are made to pay a higher price for the 
 scanty fare they obtain, than is demanded at the other farm 
 houses on the way. 
 
 We crossed the Little Red River, which at this season was 
 fordable, but which at certain times of the year seems, from the 
 height of its banks, to be a considerable stream, and owes its 
 name to the red nature of the soil, which communicates its 
 colour to the waters. The rock is here a friable, red, marly 
 sandstone, in which no traces of organic life are perceptible. 
 Our road then lay over a pretty high hill, commanding an ex- 
 tensive prospect ; and I ascended it with some sort of glee ; for 
 the passing through such extensive forests, as those which had 
 environed us for the last few days, left on my mind an occasional 
 sense of oppression, somewhat like what we should experience 
 in being shut up in a close cortfined place. The case, however, 
 was not much mended, when I found myself on the summit of 
 the range; for in whatever direction the eye ranged, still the same 
 unbroken mass of forest was seen to overspread the country, and 
 it was at first almost difficult to dispossess oneself of the illu- 
 sion, that we were alone in the midst of an untenanted wilder- 
 ness of wood. Nevertheless, ajride of about ten long miles, 
 which the extreme heat of the day rendered somewhat fatiguing, 
 brought us to a respectable farm house, occupied by a Mr. 
 Pates, where the question, " Can \ve be accommodated with a 
 night's lodging ?" brought the usual reply, which our experience 
 now enabled us to interpret (as it was meant) favourably: " I 
 
borders of the 
 
 165 
 
 don't know, I reckon you can." Upon which we dismounted 
 and consigned our horses to the stable. aismounted, 
 
 Ihe rocks during this day's journey were generallv hard 
 grey, and quartzous; on the slopes of the hilWhTch we as- 
 cended they were seen exposed in horizontal strrta and ?t an 
 I'Tw '"^t"*' *^^«--^«Pt in the immediate vSniiy of Litt?; 
 
 L'g^rivfanir '^^"^^^^^^ '''^^^'' - ^^^^ - ^^d ~d 
 
 , ^K^^'-f^^^^! ''''^ obtained a comfortable meal, and a decent 
 w Snfeo" ' r'' ^^J* f ^ ^P^^^°- apartment, wS 
 wh cfthe fam Iv Tt V' '^ ' ^^'T ^r"^"^ ^°"«« ^^^^ ^^at 
 S-therP wnl • T *^^^"P^«d- It had but one trifling 
 d d not mu.hr.H '"'"'^^'"T^^ inconvenience, which at night 
 am not much matter, as we slept with the door wide ouen but 
 which must rather interfere with the utility of the room ?ordav- 
 work. However I understand that a window L ?o be cut as 
 
 rtheTe^plTs.^^" '' ^''^"-^ -^^^^' ^^ -ms,^r:th:r:cL^: 
 
 In the morning, farmer Pates made me an offer, which I was 
 ms horses It s true, the steed offered in exchange was rather 
 
 h rsrcondiHy^R% T^' ^r'^ " ■ ^ ' ^ '-' ^"' "oi in 
 me Dest condition. But the adventure in the wood had com- 
 pletely estranged my affection from my ovvn, who moreover 
 heavflv in\?t ^f"""" ^^.^^ enough whJn at liber^, wenTve'v 
 Kck I tt'Jfn"^ required continual urging when I was on 
 TJi . therefore agreed to the farmer's terms of exchange 
 
 pon^ that Ttf 'T"> "5^V ^^^^^"-d« became satffi 
 7hZh J -I ^^ ^ KT^'' *° '^eal ^vith. In fact the money 
 which I paid over to Mr. Pates amounted to within a trifle to 
 
 Wm T tbTir^ ^'' ^' ^^^^' ^^^" I afterwards deposed of 
 Clear gam. But though my friend was rather sharu when a 
 bargain was concerned, I must do him the justice to sav that 
 Ike all my other hosts on the road, his charges fp board and 
 lodging were as reasonable as well could be A dolla? and a 
 
 hl^tp of tvvo W ' '^'' ^?.' ^"^r '' ^- Person^and fo 
 Six^cSr^^^^"^^ ^^ -°^^ ^^- 3- miles, did^lXd^^it 
 
 This morning, 22d,. after completing this bargain I nro- 
 
 wt ?u "^y ''^y' ^"^ ^^d a beautiful ride throufhThe fo?est 
 
 which then appeared dressetf in aU the early freshness of the 
 
 vernal foliage, and carpeted with a profusion of flower' *^' 
 
 Awoui mne miles irom Mr. Pates' we reached a little creek. 
 
 I ill 
 

 •i' 
 
 166 • 
 
 which gave me an opportunity for bathing; and I there saw, for 
 the first time since leaving Little Rock, a limestone bed inter- 
 stratified with the sandstone rock. This hmestone is blue, and 
 contains encrinites. The sandstone just before had imbedded 
 in it nodules or geodes of ochreous red ironstone, the exterior 
 portions of which were hard and dark brown, whilst the inner 
 ones were soft and red. Having crossed the creek, we as- 
 cended a rather steep hill, and then descended the other side 
 of the acclivity, bringing us into a valley through which flows 
 the White River. 
 
 This is one of the principal tributaries of the Mississippi, into 
 which it disembogues itself just above the point at which the 
 Arkansas River flows in, inosculating with the latter by a bayou 
 not far from its mouth. 
 
 After crossing the ferry over the river, a mile's ride brought 
 us to the town of BatesvUle, which seems to be a kind of rival 
 to Little Rock, standing in nearly the same relation to the White 
 River which the latter does to the Arkansas. There was how- 
 ever no tolerable inn in the place, but we obtained comfortable 
 quarters at a boarding house kept by a Mr. Byers, a lawyer 
 from Ohio. Here we met with a clean and well-appointed 
 table; but it is remarkable, that even in this comparatively 
 large place, no butcher's meat was to be obtained. Bacon, eggs, 
 and fish constituted the whole of our supper; and the very 
 same articles made their appearance the next daj-, both at break- 
 fast and at dinner. 
 
 The rocks in White River are, like those previously observed, 
 of sandstone, but beds of limestone occur interstratified with them. 
 The colour of the soil in general reveals the character of the sub- 
 stratum, that on the limestone being black or dark-coloured, 
 on the sandstone, red. The strata are generally horizontal, or 
 very shghtly inclined. 
 
 Monday, April 23d. — ^The day was pretty far advanced be- 
 fore we could get repaired the^ saddles, saddle-bags, &c., which 
 had been damaged by my adventure in the wood. We however 
 started in the afternoon, and proceeded along a country present- 
 ing, in a great degree, the same features as those of the pre- 
 ceding days. Occasionally there were hard stony bits, espe- 
 cially on going down or up a hill, but more commonly the road 
 was soft and sandy. Found in the bottoms traces of various 
 rivulets now dried up. 
 
 Jogged on till nightfall, when, finding no house at hand 
 where we could get a lodging, we proceeded to make prepara- 
 tions for campiny out. Accordingly we first tied up our horses 
 with long halters to two separate trees, at a short distance from 
 the proposed spot of our encampment. We next collected and 
 
 m. 
 
[ there saw, for 
 ;one bed inter- 
 ne is blue, and 
 
 had imbedded 
 tie, the exterior 
 'hilst the inner 
 
 creek, we as- 
 the other side 
 [h which flows 
 
 [issiesippi, into 
 t at which the 
 iter by a bayou 
 
 3 ride brought 
 1 kind of rival 
 )n to the White 
 lere was how- 
 ;d comfortable 
 ^'ers, a lawyer 
 kvell-appointed 
 comparatively 
 Bacon, eggs, 
 and the very 
 both at break- 
 
 usly observed, 
 led with them, 
 ter of the sub- 
 lark-coloured, 
 horizontal, or 
 
 advanced be- 
 fs, &c., which 
 We however 
 mtry present- 
 56 of the pre- 
 ly bits, espe- 
 lonly the road 
 ;es of various 
 
 luse at hand 
 lake prepara- 
 ip our horses 
 distance from 
 
 rtr\llar*4-iaf\ onn 
 
 167 
 
 ffZ^tt "P ^^^ ^^^ ^f""^ '^"^^ ^^ ^°"^^ fi"d roundabouts. 
 
 brisk fire. We then boiled some water in our tea kettle, made 
 some coffee, and, with the help of a little ham and corn bread 
 which we had brought with us, contrived to make a very satis- 
 factory meal, which was appropriately concluded by some warm 
 brandy punch. Thus fortified, we stretched ourselves on out 
 blankets, covered ourselves with our great coats, and slept com- 
 fortably under the open canopy of heaven. The air indeed was 
 warm and dry enough to render it safe to pass the night 
 out of doors, and in the morning I felt myself quite refreshed, 
 and indeed in much better case, than after rising from the crowded 
 dormitories with which I had often before fallen in. So, after 
 breaktasting upon the remnants of our evening's repast, we pro- 
 ceeded onwards towards our destination. ° ^ > f 
 
 About ten in the morning we reached a farm house, nearly 
 eight miles distant, where we got some dinner, and baited our 
 horses. 1 there met with the first specimen, that had fallen in 
 my way, of that pecuhar class of gospel preachers called circuit 
 vders, whose office it is to ride from place to place, within a 
 certain district, whenever a demand for spiritual aid exists, suflfi- 
 cient to induce some one of the resident famihes to ofFer him 
 bed and board for the day, in return for his services. This one 
 was of the J3aptist persuasion, humble in his appearance and 
 attire, and with a puritanical expression of countenance The 
 poor man, I observed, did not dine with, but after us. He was 
 no doubt a kind of eleemosynary guest of the farmer's. 
 
 After dinner we got on about twelve miles, and reached at 
 night a little city, as, in anticipation of its future destinies, it 
 may perhaps be called, which is springing up in the midst of 
 the wilderness. It is called Smithville, and was begun last year 
 At present it consists of about a dozen log huts, erected round 
 a sort of square, two of them stores, one of which comprehended 
 a tavern for strangers. I here got a tolerable supper, and ob- 
 tained a night's lodging in a loft provided with half a dozen 
 beds, m which the landlord and one or two others, together 
 with myself and servant, took up their quarters. After we had 
 retired, a tremendous thunder storm came on, accompanied with 
 torrents of rain, which lasted tiU morning, and left the atmo- 
 sphere cool and pleasant. 
 
 On Wednesdc-y, April 25th, owing to the rain, we started at 
 rather a late hour, but nevertheless succeeded in reaching Jack- 
 son by two o'clock p. m. 
 
 This is another of those embryo cities, which are met with so 
 frequently in a new country like this, somewhat larger than 
 omithville, but even less inviting in its aspect. Ascendinf' the 
 
 ^^ 
 
'm 
 
 168 
 
 hiU on the other side, I observed a considerable deposit of red 
 hematitic ironstone, but the prevailing rock was either a bluish 
 limestone, which became white when it was weathered, or else a 
 
 . w! ^"'' -l 'i^ ^r?^^^i^ ^'^""^' ^^ *^« quartzous formation 
 above described. The nde was in general as beautiful as any fo- 
 rest scenery I have ever seen, and the cottage of Mr. Black the 
 farmer with whom I took up my quarters for the night, 'was 
 perhaps one of the most comfortable that I had met with It 
 was situated on a bend of the Eleven Points River, and com- 
 manded a very agreeable prospect botii of the river and woods 
 around. 1 here was also a greater degree of cordiality in the 
 manners of my host than I had before met vvith, and I believe 
 he was deservedly a great favourite with travellers on the road 
 
 In the room where we slept, one of the beds was occupied by 
 two persons on their return from Little Rock, where they had 
 been to attend the trial of Colonel Wilson. One of them was 
 the brother of Anthony, for whose murder the Colonel had been 
 tned; and from him I learnt the little chance, that existed in 
 such a country as Arkansas, of obtaining justice even for so hein- 
 ous an offence. It appeared from him, that the friends of Wilson 
 had had the address to transfer the trial into another county 
 where it was supposed the jury would be more disposed to favour 
 the culprit and from this it seemed pretty clear that he would 
 escape. Mr. Anthony spoke to me in bitter terms of the ad- 
 ministration of criminal law in these Western States, and pro- 
 tested that he had rather hve under an absolute prince than in 
 such a democracy. ^ 
 
 Our conversation reminded me of a question I once asked a 
 person conversant with this country, as to whether he knew of 
 any instance m which a man had been executed for murder in 
 the state ot Arkansas, and of his characteristic reply, that he was 
 not certain, but that he believed, some one had been lynched for it 
 
 After a stroll m the woods, which occupied us till dinner we 
 proceeded a distance of about twelve miles, and lodged at' the 
 house of a proprietor called squire Jarrett, a man of more know- 
 ledge of the world than the ^eneraUty of those I had met with 
 in these parts, and possessing an extensive grazing farm. From 
 Mr. Black s farm, and even from Smithville, to this place 
 I conceive a more advanced state of society to exist than in 
 other parts of the road. Settlements are more frequent, houses 
 somewhat of a superior cast, and, if I mistake not, the manners 
 of the people more civilised. 
 
 We were now arrived at the parallel of New Madrid, the focus 
 of that tremendous earthquake, which affected a large tract of 
 country on the west of the Mississippi in the year 1800. I was 
 anxious to learn what traces of its effects might still remain, and 
 was assured by my host, that between the hi,^h l;,nd nn whi.li 
 
lanrj nn \yjii(>|i ft 
 
 169 
 
 he lived and the Mississippi, a large submerged tract still exists 
 -which had sunk to the depth of many feet at the time of ths 
 cata8trophe--and that it has continued ever since permmiently 
 flooded leaving nothing but the summits of the Irees vS 
 above the vvaters. Hence there is no direct road from the West 
 to New Madrid, and this town can only be reached from the 
 above quarter by a very circuitous route. 
 
 hnlr!^nA^'^'l^''''%A{^''''^f^''''^^^''''' ^^t^^" ^^ the neigh- 
 vl^ri' ^^^\^ "^"^"^^ ^^^^ «^' consists in the occurrence of a 
 slightly thermal spring within fifteen miles of the house of mv 
 host. It IS at a place called Mud-Creek, and is situated on Z 
 eastern slope of the ridge along which I had been ravenint 
 where it sinks beneath the aUuvill soil of the Mississippr ^' 
 
 Friday, April 27th we proceeded after breakfast to Pitnam's 
 
 l7fl' '' V '^u'^'. ^'""1 '^' "^"^^ of the proprietor of the Jand 
 m its neighbourhood, and arrived there by 1 1 o'clock The dav 
 was intensely hot, but tempered by a fine breeze. Dr*. Pitnam's 
 Ferry crosses the Current River, a stream of some magSe 
 The house was rather better furnished than is common in these 
 parts, and he lady of the house, who, in the absence of her hus! 
 band, did the honors, made some pretensions to srentilitv but 
 there was a torbidding coldness of^nanner about Ca/d the 
 fere she put before us was in no respect better than we had met 
 
 ll'^l'i '"°' ^^u'- ^^' ^°'^« ^^^^« of lin^estone or sand- 
 stone, belonging to the quartz rock previously observed 
 
 After dinner we crossed the ferry and entered the state of 
 Ml souri, proceeding betore night about 10 miles to a farm 
 house, kept by a Mr. Branham, who gave us but a poor sampk 
 of the accommodations we were to meet with in our future mo- 
 gress through this new state. The bed-room provided for us 
 was a loft, with only one bed, and no window. In the room be- 
 neath slept the whole family, 12 in number, including two ffrown 
 girls and two strapping lads. In such a place, the heat w^as, as 
 might be expected, most oppressive, but a violent thunderstorm 
 
 riZX'r''^ ^' ^'^ "^^^^^ ^"^ -^-^d - by cooling 
 
 Saturday 28th. We had a delightful ride this morning to Mr 
 Epps .a distance of about 1 - mile,. The woods consist chiefly of 
 oak, with but little underwood, r^o that one might roam for mile^ 
 unobstructed under the trees, and see at a great distance the deer 
 ranging freely through the glades. The numerous rivulets that 
 intersected our path, the bright verdure of the trees now in fuH 
 leaf, and the perfect stillness and repose of the scene, interrupt- 
 ed only by the feathered songsters around us, produce a very 
 
 u 
 
170 
 
 pleasing effect upon the mind of the traveller, and compensate 
 nim for many hardships and inconveniences. 
 
 Having got some dinner at Mr. Epps', we proceeded on our 
 route, and arrived at a farmhouse, belonging to one named 
 John Bulner, before night. I discussed with our host the Ca- 
 nadian question. He seemed to think it quite out of ^11 rule, 
 that any part of the American Continent should be in the hands 
 of Europeans. Such no doubt is the prevailing feeling, but it 
 is not one of a sufficiently active character to induce any large 
 number of the people of the United States to take part in our 
 quarrels. I told him, that according to his own principles. 
 Upper Canada at least should belong to England, as the people 
 themselves desired it. 
 
 e ) 
 
 ■jj 
 
 We met with tolerable accommodation at Mr. Bulner's, and 
 proceeded early the following morning to Greenville, in company 
 with a traveller, who had gone on horseback all the way from 
 the north of the state of Missouri to the Red River, and was 
 now on his return to his home. He had averagsd more than 30 
 miles each day, and when one horse was knocked up, provided 
 himself directly with another ; his plan being to jog on without 
 stopping Trom morning till night, at a rate of about three miles 
 an hour, which he found to answer better than baiting in the 
 middle of the day, both horse and rider being inured to fasting. 
 I parted with him at Greenville, which we reached at midday, as 
 he preferred going on till nightfall, whilst it was my intention 
 to rest during the remainder of the day. 
 
 Greenville itself is a little town situated on the borders of the 
 St. Francis River, a considerable stream after rains, but shallow 
 enough at this time to be easily forded. By the by, travelling in 
 this country must be in a manner suspended durmg ^vinte^ and 
 after floods, for only two out of the many rivers we crossed, were 
 provided with ferries, and there was not a single bridge the 
 whole way. 
 
 I found at Greenville accommodations of a very superior kind 
 at the house of Mr. Flynn, a respectable shopkeeper, who ap- 
 peared to be driving a nourishing trade. I made some inquiries 
 of him respecting the state of religious feeling at this place, and 
 his report may apply to the majority of the small towns in this 
 newly settled and thinly peopled district. It seems there is no 
 service on the sabbath, but at irregular intervals a Circuit 
 Rider of the Methodist persuasion attends and preaches. This 
 poor man proffers his services, wherever an individual can be 
 found willing to afford him free quarters He is constantly 
 going about from place to place, and having about twenty 
 stations to visit, can only renew his rounds once in about three 
 
171 
 
 weeks. The pav being very small, and the duties very arduous. 
 It IS to be feared, that the officiating minister must be often of an 
 mfenor description. 
 
 rr?pnJu^ J^^'^v!"^! ""^ ^J'^'^^V' April 30th, I started from 
 Oreenville for the Iron Mountam, and till 12 o'clock had fine 
 genial weather. After this time the sky became overcast, and 
 about four clock rain set in, which continued till we reached 
 our destination, namely, a farm house, kept by one Georffc 
 Miller, about 30 miles from Greenville. The whole of this 
 day 8 journey lay through one of the most solitary and least 
 peopled hues of country I had encountered since starting from 
 Little Kock. Ten miles from Greenville was the first farm 
 house, having near it a small settlement— eight miles farther 
 occurred another, and afterwards there appeared no vestige of 
 humanity till we approached farmer Miller's. We there indeed 
 tound a shelter from the elements, but it was little more. The 
 house consisted of a single room, which served both as a 
 kitchen and as the bedroom for the whole family. In this 
 there were but three beds, two of which were well filled by the 
 farmer, his wife, and eight children, whilst the third was al- 
 lotted to James and myself. I passed a very uncomfortable 
 mght, annoyed by bugs, and feverish from the nature of thfe 
 accommodations, as well as from the closeness of the room 
 Ihis was upon the whole the worst specimen of backwood 
 hving I had met with. Yet the family was decent and respect- 
 able m their deportment, and there was exactly the same 
 independence of manner amongst them that I had met with 
 elsewhere. 
 
 Tuesday, May ist. It rained pretty hard all night and 
 through the morning, but we nevertheless proceeded on our way 
 to the Iron Mountain. The sugar maple abounds in this dis- 
 trict, and most of the trees are tapped for the sake of collecting 
 the juice, which trickles, from the wound made through the 
 barij, into troughs set on the ground underneath. 
 
 Ihe principal article of produce is Indian corn, with occasion- 
 ^iL M-n'"''' ° ^""ii"" «^ consumption. About 16 miles from 
 fanner Miller 8 was Mr. Brown's, where I determined to spend 
 the night He had a respectable farm house, and possessed a 
 considerable tract of land. We dined there upon squirrel, an 
 article which the people looked upon as not inferior to chicken 
 but which I did not much rehsh. * 
 
 Near Brown's, is the house and estabhshment of the great 
 
 t^p 7r? M^V^^ ^'^i °f ^ '.^"^P^^y ^hi^h has bought up 
 the Iron Mountain, vyith the view of erecting furnaces, and 
 
 estabhshmff a c^tv in f}iP«o urilrlo ° *a»-co, auu 
 
 Q2 
 
 'i Q 
 
t 
 
 
 Ih 
 
 172 
 
 Wednesday, 2nd. After sleeping comfortably in a bed on the floor 
 
 u ^T^*'^* ^* ^^' ^'^*'^"*^* ^ proceeded in the morning towards 
 the Iron Mountain, the rain having in a great degree ceased. 
 The road, as before, was solitary, and lay entirely through woodj 
 till at length we suddenly came upon a portion of cleared ground,' 
 where the Missouri comjpany have erected one solitary dwelling 
 for the accommodation of a New Yorker, whom they have induced 
 to settle there in order to make bricks for their projected city. 
 This city looks indeed magnificent— ora;/0/?er— comprising within 
 Its compass, parks, colleges, churches, squares, &c., laid out 
 with mathematical regularity, and what is more, the plan repre- 
 sents the whole, as though it were fully matured, and had been 
 already carried out in all its details. 
 
 " Missouri city," the prospectus says, "is situated on a beau- 
 tiful plain at the base of the Iron Mountain, 90 miles south of 
 St. Louis, and 40 west of the Mississippi river. It is the central 
 point of all the chartered and contemplated rail-roads in South 
 Missouri. Climate remarkably bland, as healthy as any part of 
 the Eastern States. Winters mild. Scenery mountainous, and 
 beautiful as that of the North river. Springs of the best water, 
 abundant, and clear as crystal. Pine timber abundant, at one 
 cent a foot. Brick, limestone, marbles, and granite building 
 stones, abundant, of the best quality, and near by. Farming 
 lands in the vicinity equal to the best in the West. Rich mines 
 of lead, zinc, copper, tin, Sfc, also two Iron Mountains in the 
 neighbourhood. 1'he Missouri Iron Company, with a chartered 
 capital of 5,000,000 dollars, will make this place the seat of a 
 part of their iron works. The Missouri City University, with 
 an endowment of an 75,000 dollars a year for 45 years, will be 
 located as represented in the Citv plot. Education in this Uni- 
 versity gratuitous to citizens. The proprietors have given to the 
 university 1000 acres of land near the city for a manual labour 
 and experimental farm ; also to the city, grounds for 62 public 
 parks, eight churches, two markets, six asylums, one city hall, 
 one city lyceum, two hotels, all the university buildings, one 
 young ladies' institute, four public schools, a city burying 
 ground, and a city flower garden. No dram shop, lottery, 
 gambling office, or house of ill fame, ever to be allowed in the 
 city, or on the lands within three miles. No slaughter, butcher 
 shop or yard, or tan-yard; no glue, starch, candle, soap, tur- 
 pentine, powder, or oil manufactory, or any other kind of manu- 
 factory tending to infect the air, or annoy the neighbourhood, 
 to be allowed in the city limits. 
 
 Communications, post-paid, directed to Missouri City, 
 St. Francis Co., Mo. 
 
 •* J. L. Van Doren, 1 t> .. » 
 " Henry Pease, I Propnetors." 
 
173 
 
 Another city is also projected on the Mississippi River, at a 
 distance of 40 miJes, which a rail-road is to connect with the 
 great central point," viz. Missouri City. This however is not aU 
 --for one is likewise proposed to St. Louis, another to Jefferson 
 Utjr, and a third— will it be believed?— to Santa Fe in Mexico, 
 a distance of some 700 miles, through an unreclaimed desert. 
 But alas ! these splendid designs exist only in the imaginations 
 of the projectors; and ^he whole country, with the exception of 
 the little farm house above alluded to, is still in as untamed a 
 condition, as it could ever have been, when the red Indian 
 roamed freely through its recesses. 
 
 The Iron Mountain itself stands covered with its primeval 
 timber; and it is somewhat remarkable, that on this, the very 
 site of the projected city, the only living rattlesnake that I had 
 met with in the west country lay stretched across my path. An- 
 other step would have brought my foot directly upon the body 
 01 the reptile, but I perceived him just in time to make a hasty 
 retreat, and thus to get beyond his reach. James immediately 
 lodged the contents of the fowhngpiece he carried in his head, 
 and thus enabled us to approach without danger, and cut off his 
 rattks, seven in number, as a trophy of the event. 
 
 The Iron Mountain is so called from its consisting of one 
 entu-e mass of magnetic iron ore. It is about 500 feet in height, 
 and Its cubic contents are certainly considerable enough to 
 supply the whole world with iron for centuries to come. There 
 S-1 ?r^"? J" contiguous hill, still more elevated, called the 
 ruot Knob, which consists of a similar material. It is said to 
 be 700 feet high, and is a conspicuous object from its elevation 
 and conical shape. Till we reached the Iron Mountain, the 
 rock from Mr. Brown's house appeared to be felspar porphyry, 
 to which, I presume, this vast mass of iron is subordinate. 
 
 Unfortunately for Mr. Van Doren's speculations, iron ore is 
 abundant enough in Kentucky, Pensylvania, and other States, 
 where labour is more plentiful, and coal close at hand; so that 
 there must be a decided superiority in the raw material, to 
 enable the Missouri company to undersell its rivals in states 
 more favourably situated, I own, therefore, the project appears 
 to me altogether a bubble; and I doubt whether there is any 
 country m the world, but America, where a speculation so un- 
 mature would have been put forward with such imblushinff 
 assurance, as one already realized. 
 
 After rambling over the Iron Mountain, and dining at the house 
 of the New York brickmaker, in which was to be remarked an 
 air of greater neatness and comfort, than in the cottuges of the 
 western people in general, we proceeded through the forest to 
 a settlement called Caledonia ; on approaching which, we found 
 
 the CO""***" mrvro rrOKia».o1U, y.1« A J il-- J If 1 
 
 I I 
 
174 
 
 more thickly sprinkled, than had been the case hitherto. The 
 evening was bright, and the leaves seemed freshened up by the 
 rain that had fallen on the preceding days. From a little emi- 
 nence called Bellevue Hill, there was one of the prettiest pro- 
 spects that had met my eye, since I had been in the west 
 country ; but its principal charm consisted in the various bright 
 tints that mark the vernal foliage. But for this, the scene 
 would have been monotonous, owing to the country being so 
 overspread with limber. The rock first seen was a magnesian 
 looking limestone, bul afterwards sandstone in horizontal layers 
 "lade Its appearance. At Caledonia, I met with the first inn 
 which had come across my road since leaving Little Rock. It 
 had indeed no great pretensions to comfort ; but its existence 
 indicated a somewhat more advanced state of society here, than 
 was to be found in the other parts I had visited. Rode to-day 
 from eighteen to twenty miles. 
 
 Thursday, 3rd.— The rain returned in the night, and continued 
 more or less all day. I proceeded from Caledonia in the morn- 
 ing, and reached Potosi by eleven o'clock, after crossing several 
 hills, of which the substratum was usually quartz. The name 
 of the place is derived from the mines of leacf and copper which 
 abound in its neighbourhood, and aflfords an amusing illustra- 
 tion of American grandiloquence. It is a mean, straggling 
 I)lace, built on the slope of a hill, occupied chiefly by miners. 
 Here too I met with a tavern, which was kept by a Pole, and af- 
 forded me for dinner the unaccustomed luxury of bean-soup and 
 French bread. After dinner I proceeded on my road towards 
 the Mississippi, passed several holes where trials for ore had been 
 made, but saw no mines at present in operation. The ores ob- 
 tained, if I may judge from the specimens observed at Potosi, are 
 chiefly galena, carbonate of copper, and tungsten. The rock 
 over which we passed, after leaving this place, was in general 
 a deep red marl in the valleys, but a hard quartzose material on 
 the hills. The countrj^ was now more settled, and towards 
 the close of the day's ride I came upon a small prairie. The 
 rain prevented my going out of my way to visit the Old Mine, 
 one of the principal workings at the present time, and com- 
 pelled us to take refuge for the night in a farm house, where we 
 found clean and comfortable beds. 
 
 Friday morning, May 4th, we proceeded on our journey 
 towards Selma, where I expected to meet a steamer to take us 
 to St. Louis. On my way I diverged a little to see two of the 
 lead mines, namely those called Perry's and Vallee's. Both 
 of them are worked at the depth of 100 or 120 feet. The galena 
 occurs in veins varying in thickness from one to ten feet, and 
 
175 
 
 lies in quartz rock. After baiting our horses near Vallee's mine 
 where we could get nothing for ourselves but bacon and S 
 we proceeded over a tract more barren and more hiZ Than 
 before, encountermg a very bleak wind from the north/which 
 made this country appear to us quite the Siberia of the State 
 of Missouri. In the valleys the land seems good, a deep rich 
 red mar being found in the bottoms ; but on the hiils homontd 
 strata of hmestone alternate with soft sandstone. 
 
 Saw on the road to Selma one or two thriving plantations- 
 especially one belonging to a Mr. M'Cormick. Here we oughJ 
 to have q^ent the mght; but being anxious to reach Selma I 
 pushed on and, on arriving here! found a tavern mismbly 
 provided with eatables, as well as with sleeping accommXt ons^ 
 Ihe dormitory here contamed four beds ; Sne of which was 
 occupied by the two farm servants (or hands as they aro termed) 
 of the landlord, the second by a traveller, the third by James 
 the fourth by myself. Several of the window-frames hadlsJ 
 their glass, and a space of an inch at least intervened between 
 the window-sill and the frame, so that there was not much 
 protection agamst the cold, which proved at night very sevTre! 
 
 fi.ff^*"'"!^' ?*^^'~"-^'",'^*¥ ""^ '^^^™^^ *o take us to St. Louis 
 hat night, I decided the next morning on proceeding hv 
 land, and started by a road running nearly paraM 3 the 
 Mississippi on the borders of which Selm^a^star^^J . Abou 
 five miles from the place of starting, our course was inter- 
 rupted by a creek or rivulet, which receives some of the 
 back waters of that river, at this time much augmen ed 
 by the rams that had lately fallen. Finding, that after 
 advancing only a few feet from the bank, the horses sunk 
 nearly up to their bellies, and not having an^ ground of assur 
 ance that the stream was in fact fordable! I jud^d ^t most pru- 
 
 nponl VT^ ' "'.' I ^'^^^. P'-^^^^^d ^t '^^ indifference of^the 
 people at the inn who had given us no intimation that we should 
 have such an obstacle to encounter. The only other plan of 
 proceeding was to cross the river, and proceed through the State 
 Ihnois, but this was rendered impracticable by tlie vTolence 
 
 dv at Sdma" Tit"*''"' ^^^ 'I ^^""^^ '^' ^-^ « "h 
 day at Selma. Ihe time was hUed up by strolling to the ton of 
 
 some picturesque and e evated rocks which overhLg the r^?er 
 a castellated-looking building here crowns the precipice, which' 
 m the old country might have been taken for a vestige of 
 feudahty-it proved to be a shot-tower. Found growing on 
 he rocks the Aquilegia canadensis, and in the woods the Tril^ 
 hum grandiflorum. The rocks at Selma are of white limestone 
 fens '"^ ^'''"*'^ ''''''^ '" ''^'''^ ^ dhcovev,^ noXt 
 
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 176 
 
 Sunday morning, May 6th, at sunrise, we hailed the ferryman, 
 who resides on the Illinois side of the river. Finding no atten- 
 tion paid to the summons, we repeated our signal again and 
 again, but it was not till eight o'clock that we saw any symptoms 
 of movement. The fact was, that this independant gentleman 
 had no idea of crossing without his breakfasCas indeed the inn- 
 keeper waraed us would be the case j so that, what with the 
 preparations for starting, and the time employed in stemming the 
 force of the current, when the boat was actually launched, ten 
 o'clock came, before the boatmen were ready to take us back, and 
 twelve, before they fairly landed us on the opposite side of the river. 
 Although indeed the width of the stream ai this point may not 
 exceed half a mile, yet it was necessary to take the boat a mile 
 or two up the river along the bank, in order to prevent its 
 being carried down too far, when we attempted to cross over. 
 So that, in one way or other, nearly two hours were consumed; 
 nor was there the slightest excuse made by the boatman for hie 
 unpunctuality ; on the contrary, he received my complaints 
 with true Yankee phlegm. 
 
 Having at length crossed over, we proceeded through a beau- 
 tiful forest for about six miles, when, having joined the main road, 
 we found ourselves, for the first time since leaving Little Rock, 
 in a prairie. We took our dinner at a farm house, and remarked 
 a greater degree of comfort and tidiness in the family arrange- 
 ments, than in Missouri. The housewife was more neatly 
 dressed, the children cleaner and fresher lookmg. After dmner 
 we proceeded through a country agreeably diversified with 
 wood and pasture, and towards evening reached a large open 
 expanse, which gave me for the first time a good idea of a 
 western prairie; for the one I had seen in the morning (and 
 the same may be said of those which I had fallen in with on 
 former occasions) more resembled in its character an European 
 landscape. On its borders were several houses, to one of 
 which I had been directed, as hkely to afford comfortable 
 Quarters for the night; but I overshot the mark, and rather 
 tnan return, went on after nightfall to a village called Prairie 
 du Pau, where I found a public house which received us. 
 
 This tavern consisted of only two rooms, a kitchen and a bar, 
 the former of which served as a bedroom for the landlord, his 
 wife, and numerous children ; the latter contained two beds for 
 strangers, one of which was already occupied by a lodger, 
 whilst the other was appropriated by myself, James sleeping on 
 the fioor. The whole household had retired to rest, but we 
 nevertheless contrived to rouse them, ;aid to get a tolerable 
 bupper, served son^ewhat in French style, the family being one 
 of the old French settlers, who still possess certain villages 
 round about St. Louis. We were roused at night by a drunken 
 
177 
 
 feUow, who demanded and obtained admittance but WiS at 
 ength forcibly expeUed by our landlord after a good deal of 
 trouble and altercation. On the whole, my expS-ience leads 
 me to consider the little taverns in this country very inferior, 
 m point of comfort, to the fa-m houses in which I had been 
 generally before accommodated. 
 
 Monday, May 7th.-I proceeded in the morning to St. Louis, 
 adisr^nce of six miles, passing through the French village of 
 Cahokia, ^yhere is a Catholic chmch, the first of any Kind I 
 had seen since leaving Little Rock, and crossing the Mississippi 
 
 iLn T^^^^^T'^!"' ^^'^^"^ ^'«"g^* to a close my equestrian 
 rambles, through the border country, as it may be termed, be- 
 tween savage and cmlised life. And in taking leave of these wild 
 re^ons, through which I have passed with so much security, 
 anc without any personal annoyance, except what miaht be 
 considered inseparable from the nature of the country, and from 
 the state of civilisation, I ought not to omit my testimony in 
 Kr^"\ /*.l inhabitants, who appear to have established, 
 throughout the wide tracts over which they are scattered, that 
 pervading principle of honour and good faith, which not only 
 exempts the stranger from risk to his person and property, but 
 guarantees to him, wherever he goes, all essential accommoda- 
 tions, without fear of extortion, or chance of insult.* 
 
 * Having informed my friend Judge Porter of the r. ute I had 
 taken, I received the foUowing reply, which I here insert, as it em- 
 bodies my own views with respect to the difference between the back- 
 settlers and the town population of the Western and Southern States. 
 ..,.«;»; '^^ r""'" ^^ '^y^' "winding your way through the 
 fi ]?' ,T^^ *^® '^^"""^ 'P""fi^ of Arkansas and St. Louis. When 
 1 had health and strength, such travelling afforded me a great deal of 
 pleasure. But you must have roughed it, as they say here, with a 
 vengeance, and at times felt severely the want of, what our habits 
 make, and the world caUs, comforts. 
 
 "Still there was a charm to me in the solitude of our woods, and 
 m the origmahty of character you so frequently meet with in these 
 remote regions, which I cannot describe. 
 
 « I am glad you took the route, and lean confirm the truth of your 
 remark, that the population of the distant settlements is superior to 
 the lower classes you meet with in our towns, and hues of water com- 
 munication. 
 
 "The worst population of every country, I believe, is to be found 
 on Its seashores and navigable rivers. You mav ride thousands of 
 miles through the remotest and most thinly settled parts of a western 
 country, with as complete a sense of security, as you would enjoy, in 
 traversing the streets of London, under the eves of half a do^n 
 poice officei-s; and this fact, which is undoubted, speaks, I think, 
 volumes m favour of the people." ' 
 
 
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 178 
 
 The city of St. Louis is considerable, and, after my long stay 
 in the wilds, looked to me rather imposing from the opposite 
 bank of the river. It stretches a long way parallel to it, and 
 one of the principal streets contains some respectable houses 
 and shops. I took up my quarters at the Missouri Hotel, where 
 I found the rooms slovenly, and the attendance bad. After 
 making several purchases, called for by the dilapidated state of 
 my dress, I went to see some of those curious mounds, which 
 have excited so much speculation. North of the city, there 
 are two, both of a quadrangular, and somewhat oblong form • 
 the longest faces in each being parallel to the river. Judging 
 from the size and appearance of these, I should conceive that 
 they were erected for an encampment. I had observed two 
 others on the opposite side of the river, on the prairie, which we 
 reached late on the preceding evening. They abound also in the 
 state of Ohio, and are described in the Transactions of the 
 American Antiquarian Society . 
 
 ITie rock at St. Louis is a white limestone with seams of 
 chert or flint running through it. The latter do not seem 
 continuous, but the siliceous matter lies isolated, so as to re- 
 semble a little the flints in chalk. This limestone sometimes 
 contains shells, and corals, principally flustra. Coal occurs on 
 the opposite side of the rive'-, as well as at a little distance to 
 the N.W. The weather, though fine, continued cold up to this 
 time, and the vegetation near St. Louis seemed more backward 
 than in the south. 
 
 ■••-* 
 
 Tuesday, ipth.— I rode out to see some coal pits, occurring 
 in a valley, seven miles to the west of St. Louis. The coal was 
 bituminous, and lay at no great depth beneath the surface. 
 On my return I fell in with Mons. Nicollet, who had just arrived 
 from Washington, and was on his way to the St. Peter's River, 
 with the intention of exploring the country intervening between 
 the sources of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers, five or six 
 hundred miles to the west of St. Louis. In this enterprise he 
 had obtained the aid of the American government, but it was 
 feared, that the dreadful ravages made by the small-pox amongst 
 the savages in that quarter would have exasperated them against 
 the Americans, and that poor Nicollet's mission in such a 
 quarter would therefore prove a dangerous one. Should it 
 succeed, he will have completed his intended survey of the 
 physical geography of the valley of the Mississippi, the most 
 important work of the kind probably as yet executed with 
 respect to the New World. 
 
 Wednesday 9th. — Being desirous of seeing the junction of the 
 two rivers, the Mississippi and the Missouri, I embarked in the 
 
179 
 
 me Bteam-boat, the Eagle, for Alton, in the state of Illinois. 
 Upposite to that town the Missouri flows into the Mississippi 
 but the junction is concealed by an island, which stands at -ts 
 mouth, and divides it into two parts. The most remarkable 
 circumstance, is the distinct separation between the two rivers for 
 many miles below the point at which they inosculate. The 
 Missouri is muddy, the Mississippi comparatively clear, so that 
 all the way from St. Louis one side of the Mississippi appears 
 thick, and the other transparent ; nor is there any apparent in- 
 termixture bet., den the two. Gradually indeed, but many miles 
 below bt. Louis, the entire stream assumes the character of the 
 Missouri, becoming cloudy throughout, but even so low ai 
 belma the two rivers were in a degree distinguishable. 
 
 Alton is a small straggling place, buUt upon a rising ground, 
 overlooking the river. It is divided into the lower and upper 
 tovvn, the latter standing two miles above the former. It was 
 at Lower Alton that Lovejoy's tragedy was enacted*. I saw 
 
 * It muy be worth while to record, that poor Lovejoy was one of 
 those persons, who, with the self-devotion of martyrs, but with a 
 zeal, it is to be feared, not always tempered with discretion, devote 
 their lives to the cause of the abolition of slavery. Drive . rom the 
 slave-state of IMissouri, he established a newspaper designed to propa- 
 gate his doctiines, on the opposite side of the river, in the free state of 
 Illinois. Three times his printing press had been destroyed ; on the 
 fourth occasion the proprietor determined on resistance, and fired upon 
 the people, who were surrounding his dwelling with the avowed in- 
 tention of repeating the same outrage as before. The exasperated 
 mob then set fire to the house, fire<l upon its inmates, killed Lovejoy 
 himself, and wounded two others, till at length the doors were thrown 
 open to the assailants, who rushed in and destroyed the obnoxious 
 press. Such an event might have occurred in any country ; but the 
 most deplorable part of the affair is, that in free intellectual Boston 
 at a distance of many hundred miles from the scene of the murder* 
 and in a state which has long abolished slavery within its precincts' 
 the celebrated Dr. Channing, and other distinguished cit'zens, should 
 have been refused the use of a place of assembly, for the purpose of 
 expressing pubUcly their sentiments on such an occasion. 
 
 The letter of Dr. Charming to the Mayor of Boston, upon the 
 latter announcing to him that the hall would be refused, is written 
 with his usual force and eloquence : 
 
 "My single aim," he says, « was to frame such resolutions, as 
 might pledge all, who should concur in them, to the exertion of their 
 whole influence, for the suppression of mobs, for the discouragement 
 of violence, for the vindication of the supremacy of the laws and 
 especially for the assertion and defence of the freedom of the press. 
 My intention was, to exclude all reference to parties, all topics, about 
 which there could be a division amongst the friends of hberty. 
 
 *' It is this view of the rejection of the petition which deeply moves 
 
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 180 
 
 there at a bookshop a little work giving his biography, together 
 with an introduction by Quincy Adams, which shews that the 
 interest felt in the event still continues. There was nothing very 
 striking in the views along the river, of which the banks were 
 Hat and wooded. 
 
 In the evening, on my return to St. Louis, I embarked in the 
 steamer Girard for Louisville, taking with me my horses, for 
 which I could meet with no purchaser at St. Louis. 
 
 Thursday, loth. — By nine oclo?k this morning we had reached 
 Cape Girardeau, and about one the junction of the Mississippi 
 with the Ohio. So long as we were on the former, there was 
 nothing novel or remarkable in the scenery. The same wooded 
 banks occurred as before, with a few scanty settlements, Cape 
 
 me. That a petition bearing my name should be denied, would not 
 excite a moment's thought or feeling; but that this city, which I have 
 been proud to call my home, should be so exhibited to' the world, and 
 should exert this disastrous influence on the country, this I cannot meet 
 with indifference." 
 
 But what shall we say of the vindication of the mayor's conduct, put 
 forth by a Rev. Mr. M'inslow, in a sermon preached at Boudoin^treet 
 Chapel, "which," says the Boston Atlas, "we commend to the atten- 
 tion of those persons who have been alarmed by the recent outrage at 
 Alton." 
 ^ " The advocates," says the preacher, " for such objectionable prin- 
 
 ciples and measures"— those relating to the abolition of slavery "are 
 
 crying aloud for tlie liberty of the press. They ought to consider, that 
 they are taking the most effectual means to bring the press into bond- 
 age. We have no sovereign power, no magic means, superior to the 
 voice and ai-m of the people, to protect this instrument. Mobs are an 
 evil incident to all but despotic governments, and it is the part of every 
 good citizen to guard against exciting them. The unmolested oppor- 
 tunity to speak our sentiments through the press, and our lib'^-tv in 
 other respects, have been much encroached upon within a fev ears 
 and it has been effected by the very means of which I am com- 
 plaining. 
 
 " In all republican governments, where the power resides in the 
 people, if you either do or publish anything, right or wrong, so far in 
 advance of, or aside from, their views, as strongly to excite their in- 
 dignation, a mob is the natural consequence. 
 
 " It is in vain that you then call upon civil magistrates to protect 
 you. What can they do without the people ? They have no standing 
 army to interfere between you and the mob which you have excited. 
 By pressing too severely upon public sentiment, and thus occasioning 
 frequent excitements and deeds of violence, you at length prostrate the 
 laws, render every thing unsafe, and introduce the most tyrannical of 
 all slavery. It is in vain that you call on the civil magistrates to pro- 
 tect you, when you have taken from them all power to do it, by turn- 
 ing the popular sentiment against them.'* 
 
181 
 
 Girardeau being the only place resembling a village that ..r. 
 sented itself on the banks" The Ohio too. for aTertafn T.' 
 ance from its confluence, had the same character of monotonv 
 but as we proceeded up this river we hecrm tn LT I ^ ' 
 for the better in the culLtion rthrLn7nTar'?tst'nks''"^^ 
 We passed Paducah, a village situated at the mouth of fh. 
 
 Jhs^ newspaper statei that !y„c6 law waa g, be dSt out to' 
 
 wind «ill continLd, but the'^ky waVbright, a^d'thfairTv' 
 In proportion as we ascended the Ohio the co,n,h.vllL^' 
 more peopled, and the banks more elevated. Hence 7e scene"?.' 
 
 derance of forest ovrcSvateTfand" " ""'""'"'' P'^P""" 
 
 Friday, iith.— The Girard continued to push forward with 
 great expedition, and by nii/htfall had hmnX .,.?[■ "' 
 miles of LouisvUle. 'fhe weE wXuch ifke thatTf Jl^ T 
 preceding, being unusually cold for SHeason A^ for tS 
 passengers they may be described in generrasrough uncouth 
 
 L^i!.lid'r "rr/in'rfo r„;v--f '"^-- 
 
 The same paper mentions, that the black chn]<: nf o cf« 
 pected of violating the person of a deaf and dumhlf 1"'^''' "''"■ 
 
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 182 
 
 Saturday, May 1 2th.— About sunrise we had arrived within 
 forty miles of Louisville. The banks of the river had now 
 become remarkably beautiful, from the height of the hills, and 
 the rich verdure of the trees which covered them, iielow this 
 town the stream is remarkably rapid, and a canal has therefore 
 been cut by the side of it. But when the water is high, as 
 at present, steamers stem the torrent, and thus avoid the 'ex- 
 pense of using the canal. 
 
 I reached Louisville about one, p. m. and took up mv quar- 
 ters at the Gait Hotel, the best I have met with for some' time. 
 
 Louisville is a city of about 30,000 inhabitants, regularly 
 built, with wide straight streets, running parallel with the river 
 for a mile or more, and others intersecting them at right angles, 
 containing a number of respectable, but few first-rate houses! 
 It has improved principally within the last twenty years, since 
 steana navigation has become general, and is now the rival of 
 Cincinnati. At the distance of abou; two miles from the town 
 is a handsome stone bridge, with three arches, thrown over the 
 canal, and of a sufficient height to allow steamers to pass 
 under it. ^ 
 
 Sui^ay, May 13th.— Went in the morning to the Episcopal 
 Church, where there was a genteel, but not a very large con- 
 gregation. An impressive sermon was given by the Bishop of 
 Kentucky, a very young looking man, who afterwards confirmed 
 about twenty persons, most of whom were grown up, and 
 some, middle-aged persons. I afterwards called on Judge Bibb, 
 to whom I had brought a letter from Judge Porter. He had an 
 elegantly furnished house, but one or two little circumstances 
 in it reminded me of being in a new country. There were 
 for instance no pullies to the windows, so that when the Judge 
 wanted air, he was obliged to prop up the window frame with 
 the poker. He accounted for this defect from the difficulty 
 of getting a job completed, in a place where there was such a 
 demand for work. Hence they usually stopped short at what 
 was absolutely essential. 
 
 The Judge took me a drive in 'the environs, but had nothing 
 very remarkable to shew me. The whole way from the town 
 to the canal there was a succession of houses dotted about at 
 intervals. 
 
 Monday, May 14th.— The morning being fine, I started on 
 horseback at ten o'clock for Lexii.gton, and proceeded along a 
 rich and cultivated country. For the first time since I had been 
 in the West, I observed the whole district to be enclosed, and had 
 a good turnpike road all the way. Tolls were established on the 
 
183 
 
 English plan, and proved tolerably freouenf TKo .« . 
 gentle undulations, but there ^me^lohv h Us "S 
 exposed by the road was red sandstone but Si' • . '"^'^ 
 encnmtallimestonenearwasrpnTrpJ \ 11 T® existence of 
 of that material for m ndr; the road ^Fnr^" ^ *^^"^^ "^^^^ 
 as the village of MiddlXn wo . ■ u '^ ^^''^^'^ "'^^es, as far 
 substantialKh^se v^hffe^^^^ ^ ^^^^^i"" «f good 
 
 whole -minding me, l^eta^X^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^ 
 
 ner. consisting oTork S chLl' ''t,'' " ''''^ ^"''^ P^^^" diS- 
 and puddinff for whirh T L-5 ?' ^^""^ potatoes, asparagus, 
 for two persons Ken uckv '^1^^^^^^ ^'^^ ^ ^^^^ 
 
 and is at the same time far^noiTA^^''"^ '\' ^'"^ «^ P^^^'y* 
 of the comforts S civSsed life T?^ ^T''^ *^ ?«««««« '^^^ 
 in appearance and ^^8 Aftlr dir'' ''' ""''^J^^VecMe 
 ville, a lonsr straD-^linr[.nio '^^^^^^"^"ner proceeded to Shelby- 
 
 as to drive me to sleen orth. fl S^ '"^ ^^ bed-clothes, 
 
 Frankfort, aS from thenee tA."\^'''T^'^ '^'' ^^^Y to 
 which wore tLuXu?The sip T^*?' *^'^,"^'^ ^ ^0"ntry. 
 (speaking comSv" of luxuriance, a7d 
 
 IS encjosed, and farm houses irealmnff?; f ^^'^^ *^' ^^^^« 
 best parts of England, to^ticrinl'eTt itro/K^^^^^^ t 
 bears a great resemblance ^ ®* Kentucky 
 
 spots scenes of more especial bTauty atlnCst'" T^^" 
 these I may p«ticularize Frankfort which stand's ii^T *^l' 
 valley irngate(f by the Kentucky river whUst Vh. .1 u™*" 
 
 are occupied bv a number of «,,Lt;„ } , ^'°P^^ above 
 
 dens anf orchids TwelarX'lTn" 4 '^ ^°'"''' ""» S^"- 
 ing situation. ITiere werriSe n^ » T? ^ """"^ '""*" 
 some pleasin, spots^and I hr 'no^lTeTtt^^ifd'^T " 
 observed so large a pronnrtion nf f hi „„ . y.""^? »'ates 
 
 wheat as in this^rt o'f tCta^e of tnSr In^thf™ 1" 
 themselves I also ohsprvp o,^w,« ^^cmucKy. m the people 
 
 is a franknet ^dtcrssTma'nZTbSh™'" '^^'^ 
 kindl mess in their denorfmpnt trZ^A ^ *^^™' ^ greater 
 
 amends for a soLS rudf «nT/ ' T^"^'-''^ which make 
 travelling in thTs c'olfry^^^^^^^^^^ and render 
 
 are, I conceive, rare, excepuSeed cases o^TrplT^'lP'^P'^^^y 
 
 h;c opinion countenances the o^n^r but on r ''^v.^'T^; 
 there would seem to be a sad ^r.^^^^^^^^^^ 
 
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 ing, both from all I hear of the murders committed and passed 
 over with impunity, and from the language that drops from the 
 people on such subjects. The innkeeper, for example, at whose 
 house I stopped on the road to-day, who appeared in common 
 parlance a respectable man, talked with the utmost coolness of 
 taking the law into his own hands, and shooting a particular 
 person when he next came across him, as a punishment for a 
 shabby trick he had on two or three occasions been guilty of 
 towards him, in travelling by his coach, which act of delin- 
 quency was nothing more than that of tearing up the way-bill 
 usually deposited in a tin can inside, by which expedient he 
 evaded paying the fare when it was demanded of him at the 
 end of the journey. Though probably said in bravado, it seemed 
 strange to me, that so murderous a threat excited no astonish- 
 ment amongst the bystanders. A little anecdote of this kind 
 shews at once the feebleness of the law, and the still existing 
 feeling amongst the people, that they are yet living in some mea- 
 sure in a state of nature, and therefore are free to avail themselves 
 of those means of redress, which such a condition of society is 
 supposed to authorize. 
 
 Wednesday, May i6th. — Lexington is one of those few Ame- 
 rican towns which for a long time past have continued nearly 
 stationary. Its population is about 6000, and has not mate- 
 rially varied from this amount since the memory of the oldest 
 inhabitants, viz. for thirty or forty years. It therefore has rather 
 an old settled appearance, like that of an English market town, 
 the streets bing clean and spacious, but without much of an air 
 of business. 
 
 I called in the morning on Dr. Dudley, a courteous old phy- 
 sician, who introduced me to Dr. Peters, the professor of che- 
 mistry. This gentleman has a taste for botany, and took me 
 out to some meadows in the neighbourhood, where I collected a 
 few new plants. I remarked the extraordinary size of the speci- 
 mens of every species I saw, arising probably from the richness 
 of the soil. 
 
 Lexington is the site of the original Kentucky University, 
 called the Transylvanian, and there is a rather handsome build- 
 ing devoted to its purposes. But its fame is now eclipsed by 
 the establishment of a rival medical school at Louisville, caused 
 by some jealousies! and disputes amongst the professors. Dr. 
 Peters, however, the professor of chemistry, has still nearly 200 
 pupils, but it does not appear that any lectures, save those con- 
 nected with medicine, are much frequented. 
 
 There is a city library, containing about 7000 volumes, but 
 of these a large number are novels. 
 
 I drank tea this evening with the Rev. Mr. Ward, to whom 
 
: in some mea- 
 
 185 
 
 I had brought a letter. He is a very inteUiffent EpiscoDalian 
 clergyman and with his ^vife (an Englhvvoman byXname of 
 
 s^SylryXlat^^^^^^ '^^^"^^ ^™« ^ --" 
 
 We talked a ffood deal about the institution of slavery as it 
 exists in KentucL, a subject which he discussed with c7ndouJ 
 It 8 against the aw to teach slaves to read; but thi's neve': 
 theless in Kentucky is frequently done, and Mr. Ward Wmself 
 had at one time a Sunday school for blacks. The injuncTion 
 however, against teaching them writing, or other branche of 
 knowledge, is never violated. Mrs. Ward strongly Sed that 
 here was any natural inferiority in the negro racJ as to intd 
 lect, all crrcumstances being taken into account. In Kentickv 
 
 LTattev r«l7h "ff' " n^^^^ "^-h - the st" S 
 ner as the> would be if free. Nevertheless the existence of 
 
 slavery exercises a most preiudicial influence upon the people 
 and this aloiie, in Mr WartT's opinion, prevents Kentuck^yfmm 
 
 mS Ohio 'n *^' ^'^^^ "^ '^' ^''^''^'^ States, instead of pe^ 
 mitting Ohio, as at present, to get the start of it. The reck- 
 essness with regard to human life is such, that fifty murders 
 a year are a common average, and yet scarcely an execuTn for 
 that cnme is recollected. The same state of things indeed Vre- 
 
 worir'"'"^::? '^' ^r^^^" ^"d ^««tern Stfte but it s 
 worse in proportion to the newness of the country This and 
 
 whL7;ould'oth'"' 'T'^^'^ '2 ' --dence7n Kentucky" 
 which would otherwise be very desirable on many accounts 
 rhus ague IS unknown in this ^tate, mosquitoes neverappea?* 
 and crimes against property are rare, though those against^ the 
 person are so freouent. Beef is only five cents (2^^.) a pound 
 
 8outh\'ndT>f *^'" one quarter of'the price it obtains Tthe 
 south, and other commodities in proportion. 
 
 Thursday, May 1 7th.-The nigh^ preceding had been exceed- 
 ingly sultry, but the morning was dill. At ten a. m. I started 
 ma gig for the Kentucky River, where I was told I sLuld meet 
 with some new plants. The road was stony, and it was trouWe 
 some to dnve along it, owing to the number of logs of wood 
 which were thrown across in order to prevent carriages from 
 going m one track. After a ride of fourteen miles we came t^ 
 a very respectable farm house, or rather countrTmanrion, where 
 ome dinner was to be had, which however diJ not cor";spond 
 m goodness with the promise held out by the superior appear- 
 
 cakeVlnd'coZ' ^'t/' %^' ^°i! "^^^^^ but Von,'S 
 S' K . .1, u-' 7^^ "^^^^ ^bo owned the property pre- 
 sided but the white farm-servants, or hands (as they are caDed) 
 «a at the same table. Yet the lady went about in her own 
 carriage, drawn by two fine looking horses, and her son hid 
 
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 186 
 
 received an university education. Naturally enough, under the 
 circumstances I mention, there could be no conversation at table, 
 and in fact the meal passed off in almost entire silence. It 
 18 remarkable indeed, that the white servants should be such 
 •ticklers for a privilege, which seems to embarrass themselves, 
 as vvell as their employers ; yet I have heard of cases, where 
 such offence was taken with the farmer and his family for dining 
 at a separate hour, on the occasion merely of some friends visit- 
 ing him, that all the htinds he had engaged left the premises in 
 consequence. 
 
 After dinner I started oft" in the direction of the river, and 
 descended a pretty steep ravine, now nearly dry, but down 
 which after rain a considerable body of water descends, forming 
 a series of cascades. I hunted for plants till the evening had set 
 in, and as the logs that were thrown across the road rendered 
 It dangerous to travel in a gig after dusk, passed the night at 
 the farm, and started very early next morning for Lexington. 
 About a mile on this side of the town is Mr. Clay's country 
 house and grounds; the latter have more of a narkish look 
 about them than any I had seen in the country. 
 
 The rest of the day was in great measure taken up in getting 
 rid of the two Rosinantes, which had brought myself and ser- 
 vant safely, though slowly, from Little Rock, and for which, with 
 all their accoutrements, I could only obtain a fifty dollar note 
 in return for one hundred and seventy, which they had cost me, 
 in:;luding the loss sustained bv swapping my poney against the 
 farmer's horse in Arkansas. However the difficulty I had ex- 
 perienced at other places in disposing of the horses at all, and 
 the unusual number of gigs and hacks I observed for hire, which 
 evinced, that horses in this town must be a cheap commodity, 
 determined me in closing with this very shabby offer. After 
 settling this business, I looked over the strata in the neigh- 
 bourhood, which I found to consist of shelly limestone, in which 
 encrimtes, corallines, &c. abounded. 
 
 Saturday, 19th.— We proceeded by the stage to Maysville 
 through a rich and general^/ cultivated country. The roads 
 comparatively speaking were excellent, excepting that they were 
 too narrow for safety, especiaUy considering the habit of racing, 
 which seems to prevail to a dangerous extent amongst the 
 stage drivers. The mode of driving here was much after the 
 manner of England, and almost equally fast. I find indeed 
 that there is quite an equal disposition to rapid travelling here 
 as with us, wherever the roads admit of it. The danger arising 
 from the struggle between our stage and an opposition one as 
 to which should be first, induced me to desert the outside, and 
 shelter myself m the comparative security of the interior. Here 
 
187 
 
 iHe vehicle had obtained 1.^^,11 ;. 7** °' ™/ ™">«y'« end. 
 we were then nainMirequee^ed ™"''''"'"' "f I'"Wer», and 
 
 -ulphlK' hydrops'' S" ft''" "," t' 'P","" *'^'">^?"'« 
 merely e.line. xKenerv rni^ ^"'^ .'^''=''' "^'^ '« 
 
 i?^. i?e" ff^f S't"^- ?s.'tsr oTtiirx 
 
 highest'hilK Ohio. '' We arrived aTZ "'™n«'' """" »' ">e 
 proceed to Cincinnat hJ!L i "fys/'Ue Juat in time to 
 
 Sunset. On board™" eJeveri^H? "^^'^ .'^' '""" "'/ «>•<»" 
 to the Wert count^! whithe^thSr ?rib Ti'l'"' '"^y- ' '''""«' 
 a c-uel expedient, aKvs attended J^l. f "" e'cpatriated- 
 not only from the artiaUmo„„,^f ««« misery and distress, 
 sufferers, but from the attrhT ,. Pr'™t'«»,mcurred by the 
 
 10 much force by all savages T„ ',t ''"""' '''"^'' '' f*" "'"h 
 our arrival at Cincinna^r S »^i8 mstance we learnt, on 
 
 have hung hiL,SrS'st'at?cr„°' *"" '='""'» "'« '<"'"'' «» 
 
 Wn'hrdTe7pard'':nT"" "• ^'"r"='" '^ "-e most 
 part of the Ohio that oleied .A P"" recollection, I know no 
 
 either clothed ,rithwoo^dSlhe»r •""'S''' ^'^^ '«'"'« ""« 
 timber, were cultivatid to heifver:;;^:.?' "^he "'T^ "l 
 .^country was undulating, and th^ Z^Z^ f^/h 'and^'^u"' 
 
 wWcrt^u*a;7edt\?»"'^''"'''r''' ""> B^adway Hotel, 
 had fonned o?U H the o crrf,-'r\''i^ expectations I 
 inns; but it seems now to be rXSi -f ^u^ ^ ^^^ "^^ '''>'• 
 was decidedly betterXn te rSrilleT.^^'/h.^^^'' 
 more attentive. As for the citv if<,.1f t^L • ' , • '"* waiters 
 Union so fine as its ^Ctrwi h rrfe,^^^^^^^ 
 which It commands Tf wp1i\i^o11 ^^^*^[l"^^ to the noble river 
 
 of the West, frSm its poSlf ^wdi atVZ'".!,''^ "'^ '^"'?» 
 
 but these are in generS n™^^^^ 
 
 private houses ^re7ood aZZV^t^^^^^ Many of the 
 
 different denominatirs'^i^tatL^?,^^^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 "Ill 
 
It 
 
 
 188 
 
 contrast in this respect to New Orleans, which, with a larger 
 population, can boast of only three Protestant places of v/orship ! 
 I here attended one of the Episcopalian, at which a Mr. Brooke, 
 an eloquent and impressive preacher, officiated, and saw there a 
 respectable and well-dressed congregation. The church itself 
 has a handsome Gothic front, and its interior is neat and ap- 
 propriate. 
 
 There is indeed a better taste displayed by t^e people of Cin- 
 cinnati in their architecture than by those elsewhere ; and it is 
 remarkable, that the only building which would be singled out 
 for its unsightiiness, was erected by the lady, who has so distin- 
 guished herself by vilifyiiig every thing belonging to the city 
 and its inhabitants. This strange nondescript edifice, erected 
 by Mrs. Trollope, goes by the name of the Bazaar ; it is a far- 
 rago of Gothic, Egyptian, and Moorish architecture ; and, if it 
 had been a native production, would have been cited as a fine 
 illustration of the deficiencies attributed to the Yankees in all 
 matters of refinement. 
 
 Mr. Buchana nierchant of the place, who is attached to 
 natural history, • Aq me dine with him, and, in the evening, 
 accompanied me to the hills adjoining the city. These we 
 found to be made up of horizontal beds of limestone alternating 
 with marl. The limestone contains abundance of fossils, espe- 
 cially corallines, encrinites, trilobites, bivalves of various kinds, 
 such as spirifers, productoe, and the strophomene of Rafanesque. 
 I never saw a locality more rich than this in the shells which it 
 furnishes. It lies underneath the coal formation of the neigh- 
 bourhood, and, therefore perhaps, may be regarded as the car- 
 boniferous limesfone. 
 
 From the summit of the hill we enjoyed a noble ' iew of the 
 city, and afterwards proceeded to a little glen, a mile or two 
 further, where I collected some plants, as, for instance, speci- 
 mens of Bartram's oak, and that pretty flower, the Collinsia 
 verna. 
 
 Monday, 21st, was a wet day ; and the want I was in of a ward- 
 robe, owing to the non-arrival of my luggage, induced me to 
 devote the morning to fitting myself up with certain necessary 
 articles. These were more readily procured, than they would 
 have been at such short notice in most places, for the high 
 price of labour renders the charges of tailors in the West so 
 exorbitant, that people in general are content to purchase 
 clothes imported from the great cities of the East, which can 
 afford to supply them on more reasonable terms. Hence 
 it is not very common to see a well cut coat in the Western 
 country ; but, as I had no wish to aTinear smarter than in" 
 neighbours, I was easily reconciled to^ the idea of wearing a 
 
 t'\ : 
 
189 
 
 ready made suit, though it might not fit over well. In the 
 afternoon I called on Mr. Bullock, formerly the proprietor of 
 wu^T'r.??"' ^" Piccadilly, whom I found rTechnini 
 health, but still lively and conversible. He had got together an 
 maiense assemblage of fossil bones from Big Bone S but 
 lamentable to relate, they were all destroyed by a fire S 
 broke out m his museum. The loss is irreparable, as hlhad 
 in a manner ransacked the contents of the eAtire locahty. He 
 had also made a collection which no one certainly would have 
 expected to have been acquired in the West : it was one of 
 paintings by the old ItaUan masters. How theyJt toThose 
 remote parts is to me a mystery. In the evenTnf went to 
 the theatre, to see Miss Tree who acted in the Love Chase 
 and, on mv return, met with much difficulty in piloting m^^ 
 way througfi the streets, the night being pitchy da?k, and not 
 a single lamp existing in .ny part of the to>vn. 
 
 Tuesday, 22d.-It was gratifying, after having been so lonj/ 
 m the wilds, to meet at Cincinnati with a few plople who takf 
 an interest m natural history.* I have already mentiled Mr! 
 5."^^?"^n as one of these, a second was a brother of Mr. Lea 
 
 bfrT fn^K ^ '?' ^""^i ^"^ '\''"'"' P'^^'^^^1 botanist I conceive 
 him to be. An old Scotchman of plain manners, long settled 
 m the city was another with whom I got acquainted! and in 
 company with these gentlemen I took a drive in the neighbour- 
 hood to a glen where we collected some good plants. Dr 
 Muirhead, an Irish physician, settled at CinLnatOnviied me 
 to tea ; and there I was agreeably surprised at seeing my friend 
 Dr. Locke, with whom I had mide acquaintance in Oxford 
 drop in fresh from Ohio, wher3 he had been carrying on h^' 
 portion of the State Survey. ^ ^ 
 
 * I had frequent occasion, in my rambles, to notice the difference 
 between the American backwoodsman and t^e Euronean oeasant ^viih 
 
 nZTf^^ '^'7 "' ^"T^'«" *^«^ -pectiv"el7apperr i 
 upon he features of external nature-the various productions of the 
 
 rZded. '^'*'^ ' ^"^^'™~"^'^ ^^'^^ '^'y ^^' constantly sul! 
 
 in ^»tfn T'' 'l^i^^lI'^iS^ted and vigilant as he shews himself to ?>e. 
 n makmg himself fully acquainted with whatever he can in any wav 
 turn to account, seems often wholly unobservant of those objects from 
 wmch he does not expect to derive some personal advantage, and is 
 therefore unabe to afford us information ^ith respect to the names 
 and qualities of the commonest plants and animals that occur in his 
 neighbourhood-whilst the most ignorant hind in the Old Countrv, in 
 consequence of being stationary in a spot which his familv has inha- 
 wliiJ'' "'^"^ &«"«'-ations, often possesses a sort of traditionar"y 
 knowledge on such matters, which is highly useful to the stranger. 
 
 '!|i 
 
i i 
 
 ill- 
 
 190 
 
 Wednesday, 23d.— I started in the morning on a botanical 
 ramble, in company with Dr. Locke, Mr. Lea, and a Mr. Gierke 
 Ihe day however proved unpropitious, and rain coming on, we 
 were driven back without collecting much. 
 
 Thursday 24th.— The same disagreeable weather as on the dav 
 preceding. In the afternoon, however. Dr. Locke drove me 
 out along the banks cf the Ohio, and shewed me a vineyard 
 the first 1 had met with in America, belonging to a Mr Lona' 
 worth, a gentleman of fortune in Cincinnati. It is worth 
 noticing, that the vmes in winter are covered up, to shield them 
 Z'^^JTu*^ P;f^"^?«" rendered necessary by the severity 
 of the cold* The views commanded by Mr. Longworth's 
 grounds of what are termed the Prairie bottom, are rich and 
 beautifu I saw here a quickset hedge-a rarity in this country 
 though the shrub, or one very Hke it, abounds in the State of 
 Missouri. The vines, under the management of a Scotch 
 gardener, seemed to be thriving ; and a sample of the w ne 
 made from it which I tasted in the evening, was not to be 
 despised. It had much the taste of the Mus?at grape, having 
 a richness, as well as sweetness of flavour, which was verv 
 agreeable. <*<=> vciy 
 
 Friday 25th -Dined with Dr. Muirhead, where I met two 
 Episcopahan clergymen. One of them expressed himself in 
 very strong terms on the subject of the Girard College. He 
 considered, that the State of Pensylvania ought to have rejected 
 the donation altogether, as the conditions imposed by the tes- 
 tator excluded all classes of the clergy from a share in the man- 
 agement of the mstitntion. It was on this ground that Bishop 
 White memonahzed the Legislature on the subject, but without 
 success In conversmg on slavery, he, though professing him- 
 self not to be an abolitionist, contended for the original equality 
 
 i.-^aI ""TZ ^"S '""^'^^ ''^^^' ^" ^" intellectual point of view. In 
 childhood he observed, he could trace no difference in capacity 
 between the two; and thai there should be such in after years! 
 
 cJ '^'^^. absencej^f vineyards in the United States is a problem „f 
 some mterest with respect to the geographical distribution of pZt 
 
 InrlT f ^^^P'" •"'^ "^'^'''^' *^^' '^^y ^^«"ld be generally cultivated 
 for makmg of wme, m a country uhere labour is so dear, but here and 
 there we should meet with vines grown for the sake of the fruit we^ 
 there not somethmg unpro, 'tious in the character of the climate 1 
 believe the extreme vicissitudes of the spring in the midland States 
 
 Sa^err'aircre"" "'' °'""^" " *'^ '"^ '^ northernironesrrbe 
 
191 
 
 ovvn connected with electro-maanetism T^? . ? "^^^ ""^ ^'^ 
 energy and talent like his exerdseHn /clnfS' '^^k-^^'^^ 
 city west of the Alleghanies ^followi^^^^^ V 
 
 researches of the American Franklm in o . "P' ?\" were, the 
 
 sopher odd have k„o::i^™1k"raLV/„1 tttldt dt^ 
 
 phi 2rK^r :4ur !^„ti^^ 
 
 hose from the southern cities, is one series ^haSshwS 
 the contingency of traveUing in an unsafe vessel fomshM,»S 
 msigmficant item A man, who is exposed daily t™hersk^ 
 of yeUow fever and other epidemics, to say nothing of thiz 
 ansingfrom the frequent duels, and from thelntemSe hibto 
 incident to such a state of society, is not likelyTo bTverv ct 
 cumspect, as to the kind of vessel he select, nr tL „ . ^ ' 
 whom he confides his life. ' '"'' '^^P'^" '» 
 
 After dinner, I took a botanical ramble with Mr Lea nn ,h. 
 
 IT:^I of Ll'I"-' Ohio rivet A remarkable change t 
 
 ine state ot cultivation is observed on nassinff frnm «„1 ♦ 
 
 :lclS^;:^ure!l?hi»l^-tuX"sidlHKl^^^ 
 
 oflS7w'",'^ more conversational tLn in most oSier ctol 
 of the West. If indeed this difference in the imnrl^^L lir! 
 .jon ner mma and upon mine, arose simply ftomihe proVe'ss 
 
 ■'«.i 
 
Jl 
 
 ■1 
 
 192 
 
 which the people of Cincinnati have made during the short in- 
 terval whicl^ lias elapsed between our respective visits, the altera- 
 tion may serve as a lesson to others, how cautious they should 
 be, in setting down as permanent charactenstics of a whole 
 people, defects which may only arise from the stage of society 
 which they may have reached at one particular period. 
 
 But the fact is, that the Americans have not met with justice, 
 either from the extreme Tories or from the extreme Radicals' 
 who have gone amongst them. The former are eager to exag- 
 gerate any defects which may exist in the character of a demo- 
 cratic people, as an argument against democracy itself; the 
 latter, rather than bring their favourite scheme of government 
 mto disrepute, labour to make it appear that the Americans are 
 not worthy of their institutions. 
 
 Both parties might have saved themselves much trouble and 
 much misrepresentation, if they had only reflected, that the 
 democratical character of the institutions is a consequence of 
 the condition of society in America, not the condition of society 
 a consequence of the institutions ; that, as the genius of the 
 people, and the general tone of their system of government, 
 (with one lamentable exception at least,) are essentially the 
 same throughout the Union, whilst society diflfers according to 
 local circumstances, such peculiarities as are not universal 
 ought in fairness to be attributed to the latter cause, rather than 
 to either of the two former. And lastly, that whilst it would be 
 extremely difficult, to imagine an independent people so cir- 
 cumstanced as that of the United States, continuing long under 
 any other form of government than a republican one, it would 
 be equally difficult, to point out any remarkable alterations in 
 character and habits, which would be likely to grow out of one 
 of a different kind established amongst them, so long as the 
 other conditions continued as at present. 
 
 The main source in fact of the annoyances which an Euro- 
 pean experif os in travelling through the United States, con- 
 sists in the circumstance, that the relations subsisting in the 
 Old World between the employer and the employed are here in 
 a manner reversed, the demand for labourers being greater than 
 that for labour. Hence the paucity and badness of domestic 
 servants— hence the tone of equality assumed by the lower 
 class towards the higher— and in short that independence of 
 the poor upon the rich, or rather, I should say, the dependence 
 in some cases of the rich upon the poor, which is so apparent. 
 Other peculiarities of no very agreeable kind, which strike us in 
 travelling through the wilds of America, arise chiefly, from the 
 rare intercourse of the people we meet with general society, and 
 from the uniformity of the pursuits that alone engage the atten- 
 tion of the backwoodsman— such is the cold indifference of his 
 
193 
 
 waft of JLt fl. Ki", T^"- i ""^ ideas-and above aU, the 
 Enf „n /),.l n "/ "^ ""'"'• *'>''='' ''"^^ necessary for 
 stra'ngfrsTothlet ""''""''°" """'"8" P^^^ "o' - 
 
 EntS^ his neighbourhood must have come from New 
 i^ngland, because they had insisted on having a bed apTeS 
 
 But to proceed.— On Sunday, May 27th I sfartpd m fKo 
 
 .j£ ^"^det- tt .S:';^i^Oot'n^' 
 Galhpohs on Monday, Marietta and WheeHn^ on Tuesdav and 
 ~^du^^^^^^^^^ on Wednesday. The llZesJftl'rW^ 
 scenery dunng the whole of the way were generally much al ke 
 There is probably no one point between CincinnL and Ptt« 
 burgh, where the stranger, if he were suddeX to Hffht u^^^^ 
 would not feel charmed with the beauty7f the lanXaoe^^^ 
 nevertheless, m a newly settled country hke ths, where art 
 has done so little to modify the natural features of the scenery 
 we reqmre something more bold and striking in the latter S 
 secure us from a feeling of satiety, after havlg had th"ee or 
 four days to familiarize us with the aspect of boundless wond« 
 and round-backed and gentle elevations. There wa ndZ a 
 freshness and brilliancy in the foliaee seen insert fV.1 • 
 
 ofspnng,and,whenwLbservethe'gr^^^^^^^ 
 sometimes descending in one gentl? slope ^^1^1 4^^^^^^^^ 
 
 xfent' whfchtr '™f ' 'T"^ ' ''''^'^^-^ «f g^-t- or Tes 
 extent, which, where cleared, is covered at this time of year with 
 
 the brightest verdure, we cannot deny to the banks of the Ohio 
 theelements of picturesque beauty. ° 
 
 The eye is also gratified with the numerous wooded islands 
 standing up in the midst of the stream, one of S caUed 
 Blenherhassett's island, was famous as the residence of an 
 Inshman by that name, who assisted Colonel Burr In his Ln^ 
 
 The Ohio side, as usual, is generally the best cultivated and 
 
 c 
 
 i;!ii! 
 
 > '' M 
 
 I,'']] 
 
1 . 
 
 -. 
 
 \ 
 
 
 
 
 '} 
 
 
 : ■ 
 
 1 
 
 ■: 
 
 I- • 
 
 1 
 
 
 « 
 
 *■ 
 
 ; 
 
 
 
 j: 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 III 
 
 1 
 
 m 
 
 194 
 
 peopled ; but even here, miles are sometimes passed without our 
 coming in sight of a house. Upon the whole, he who has seen 
 the views between Maysville and Cincinnati, may well console 
 himself for missing the remaining jjortion of the voyage, at 
 least if he travels only in search of the picturesque; for he will 
 meet with no other part so beautiful, and with very little of a 
 novel character to interest him afterwards. 
 
 My fellow-passengers were as usual an uncommunicative 
 set of persons. I was amused at one of them pronouncing 
 the Ohio to be the most beautiful river in the world. I asked 
 him if he had seen the Rhine ? O no ! he had never been in 
 Europe. Had he been on the Hudson ? No ! he had never been 
 east of the AUeghanies. I then assured him, that if he would 
 not allow the palm of superiority to our European rivers, he 
 had not to go farther than the state of New York to find scenes 
 possessing a much higher character of beauty than he would 
 meet with on the Ohio. 
 
 The only estate onr the borders of the river which possessed 
 the appearance of an European farm belonged to Rapp's Esta- 
 bUshment, at Harmonv, 19 miles above Pittsburgh. The neat- 
 ness of the fences, ana fine condition of the ground, which was 
 suflSciently cleared, without being divested of timber, aflforded a 
 pleasing contrast to the slovenly and neglected state of other 
 fends in its vicinity. The EstabUshment is a kind of Protestant 
 nionastery, enjoinmg celibacy, and enforcing a strict commu- 
 nity of property. It is said to be flourishing, and to have 
 amassed large funds. 
 
 Pittsburgh itself, which we reached about the middle of the 
 day, has indeed a most uninviting appearance from the water. 
 It is enveloped in smoke, and consists of an assemblage of 
 closely packed, mean looking houses. There are numerous ma- 
 nufactories,* but they are not, as at Birmingham or Manchester, 
 on that grand scale which imposes on the imagination, though 
 the enormous developement of the Coal Formation, which we 
 are remiinded of on entering this place, and which extends from 
 hence into the Western States, so as to cover an area equal to 
 that of Great Britain, is, it must^ be confessed, well calculated to 
 do so. 
 
 * The following is a summary of the trade, &c. of Pittsburgh :— 
 
 Iron founderies, manufactures in iron, steam-engines, ^'^^^°^^' 
 
 glass, white lead, cotton, &c 1 1,606,350 
 
 Mercantile business 1 3,100 000 
 
 Commission g^'gn^QQ^ 
 
 Coal trade 585,200 
 
 Total 3i>i46,S5«> 
 
195 
 
 atThp" P^T ^"M 'Pf"* ^* Pittsburgh, taking up my quarters 
 at the Excliange Hotel, which was moderately Jood^^n V^! 
 
 we reLe fr„£ '^ K^ "/„d e' 'plfeTg'l.'od^'^LT ?t 1 
 afteroards crossed the long wooden brid|e oveiThe Monon 
 
 |^=;:l^1,:-a^^oll:S^!=g 
 
 he Sonth Thp '"'^ however to have a sli|ht dip toxvards 
 
 'e|^ t o„„.i^ =v^a.^t;L:l^ »^ — - 
 
 cay. It was prettily situated on a little eminen^roverlookin,. 
 the nver. Nearly opposite, but divided from this house bvh! 
 
 Kjo^f^Tt^ tdltttd^h^f S'^^^"™' '"^^^^^ 
 nWy from undern^XratlfasI JJ^r tK^^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 L'=rrd"^:itr.rre^tT'pi^^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 C?v7rn'"at7a3™"^ 'th' ™' "-^ '^'«^' °"^ looirUkeThe 
 
 At nme o'clock m the evening of Thursday I Rtarfp^ n« 
 board the canal boat for Philadelphia, in whTchIhe mssenJr« 
 had to sleep, as in that on the Erie caial, 1 three lieCfTat 
 tresses suspended to the sides of the cabin. As however Uiev 
 were not verv numerous, no extra berths in the Sle of the 
 
 In the morning we found ourselves in a formation of coal 
 sandstone lymg horizontally. The canal runs nearr^rlwo 
 tT Alleghany, but in one place a tunnel qoofee 
 
 
 I 
 
 lliC 
 
 S 2 
 
 length 
 
? .f ; 
 
 P , 
 
 '•fj 
 
 .1 
 
 Ji 
 
 196 
 
 is cut through the rock, in order to avoid a bend which the river 
 here makes. Between Pittsburgh and Johnstone the canal rises 
 by a succession of locks 451 feet, the former place being 705, the 
 latter 1151 feet above the level of the sea. The boats are con- 
 veyed with great expedition through these locks, and, including 
 the time lost in passing them, our rate of travelling by the canal 
 averaged four miles an hour. 
 
 The rain fell almost without ceasing the first day, so that 
 little opportunity was aflforded me of enjoying the scenery. 
 It was evident however, that in fine weather some of the -rlens 
 we passed, when hghted up by a bright sun, would be very 
 striking. Unfortunately there is no point from which an ex- 
 tensive view can be obtained, the canal being generally inclosed 
 between ranges of hills, which are round-backed, and covered 
 with timber and brushwood. Amongst the latter the Rhodo- 
 dendron abounds, and this, when in flower, must greatly add to 
 the attractions of the scenery. 
 
 Saturday, June :3rd, at sunrise, we left the canal-boat, and 
 started from Johnstone by the rail-car. We passed first through 
 a tunnel, and then up four inclined planes, having between 
 them a certain extent of level ground. The fourth inclined 
 plane brought us to the summit level, which is calculated as 
 being 2293 feet above the sea. Thus we had ascended no less than 
 1 142 feet by inclined planes, up which we were drawn by endless 
 ropes, set in motion by stationary steam-engines placed at the 
 summits of each plane. This wonderful work was completed 
 about six years ago, and is the first attempt that has yet been 
 made to carry a rail-road over a lofty chain of mountains. How 
 far the expense of so many stationary engines may be compen- 
 
 UM^^M^ ol ^**^^ ^®^' ^ ^"°^ "«*' ^"t ^^e traffic, as well as the.passengers 
 
 ^"^^^ -J that traverse it, are both surprisingly great. 
 
 I took up my quarters at the Hotel on the summit, which was 
 certainly not so good as it might be expected to be on such a 
 thoroughfare, but it appears that few travellers tarry on their 
 journey. There is indeed no view whatever from the top, and 
 the only interest I had in stayipg there, consisted in gaining a 
 little more time to inspect the rail-road, and the means employ- 
 ed for drawing up the cars. 
 
 During the rest of the day I rambled over the flat plane of 
 about three miles in length, which forms the summit of the 
 mountain, and looked about for plants, of which I found but 
 few. The air was very elastic and bracing, and as the day hap- 
 pened to be fine, the sudden transition from the heat of an 
 American summer to the genial temperature of spring, which 
 still lingered on this elevated spot, was very delightful to one's 
 feelings. 
 
'9 II 
 
 197 
 
 boat carries us on 'n! ""''Jaysburgh, where the canal- 
 river Juniata anri i, TJ ™"t P*''""'' '" ""^ <^»"™ °f *« 
 
 njgh^as before, in the c^anal-boat/but with^urbLgt^Luch 
 
 bee™" OT^^rt'at ™1 X^,'"? ""' " ""' ''K*'*' *■"' '"''<'™™'J« 
 I f„7,!,S ""^°r™f' ' a"P sJiRbt showers succeeded. On irettinir iin 
 
 hSISh " '' ^^^y"-b„rgh, u,ore than joSK 
 I,S/™^ f '" P'M'^ed its course through the vaUev of the 
 
 ♦kI K .? "^"l^^^^^d in patches extending from the summit and a 
 the bottom 18 usually spread out into a sort of talus This dP 
 
 itLZe'tVtle 'r^r.' '^"^^^ of ?n uScom^o abe" 
 
 iSr Ti K 1,!^^ ^°"*'^/' ^^^^««" the sombre hue of the 
 
 atter, the bright green of the oak, and the graver foliL of 
 
 teg^lcf ^The'^ ''""V ^'^ ^^"^ -« dSied h'ad a 
 pied&mg eitect. 1 he mountams are steep, but in eenpral havp 
 
 ^tW.^ll'""'"^^'' ^'^'"^'"^ ^^^"^ i" ^ seL of S ridges 
 
 of an extendpH . 1^1 ^PJ^ssion conveyed to the mind, is that 
 deeXiS tI fi '"?' "^'^^ ^^"^7« «^ denudation cutting 
 theK wh LThp .^lleghanies indee/bear the same relation to 
 TTiPr. orl ^ Derbyshire hills do to those of North Wales 
 
 rhere are r^any sweet spots for residences, but these are merelv 
 taken possession of by farm houses-not a single ruraT vS 
 being seen m the whole country. Upon the wholeTe trS 
 traveUed oyer on this day, and the one^precedinTrt strikes me 
 TanksTfTpyT^^"^ \^''' '''^ in America! xceptrng the 
 
 ft Sess^s t^U^ sublimity and grandeur, the beauties 
 
 beSes more seMeT ^'"^'^'^ " ^''^'''''^ ^' ^^^ ^«""*^ 
 
 inJmerelt^o/".f *%Y '" ^"^'"^^ '"^ '^^^' ^^'^y, consist- 
 worked b^ wLpr n ^^''' a'P' *^°^^" ^''^'' '^'^ ^i^er, and 
 one han7 and to^Z!'' ^^ '"'^ ^"^^^^^' *« '^^ ^'^' <^^ the 
 along ^"'^^''' ""^P" °" *h« "ther, drags it 
 
 , The most attractive scenery however is said to lie near thp 
 lunction of thp Tiin'-'tT arr^ o,,,-„-i, . '"^'"/o ^le near tne 
 
 'r.rU^^ '■•..u«ia anu ous4Ueuunna rivers, but it was dusk 
 
 ^hen we approached it, and nig\t when we were ferried across 
 
 83 
 
 ;i 
 
 ■,',!!ii 
 
 lit 
 
 ■I 
 
 if 
 
 1 M- 
 
I I 
 ,■'■ 
 
 f ■ 
 
 i !ip^ 
 
 198 
 
 the latter river. In the morning Harrisburgh, the metropohs 
 m one sense of Pensylvania, appeared in view, and from thence 
 we were conveyed by rail-road to Philadelphia, where we arrived 
 at half past five, on Tuesday evening, June 5th, after having 
 traversed a well cultivated country, pleasing in its natural fea- 
 tures, but less mountainous and bold than that presented to us 
 on the day preceding. 
 
 On approaching Philadelphia, we descended another inclined 
 plane. The verdure and foliage round about this city were very 
 striking, particularly in the neighbourhood of the Schuylkyll. I 
 here resumed my former quarters at Mrs. AUabone's, which, 
 after all I had since seen in America, struck me as the cleanest 
 and most respectable boarding-house I had fallen in with. 
 I stayed there till Saturday, doing little, except calling upon 
 my various friends, and making preparations for my departure. 
 
 On Friday evening, June 8th, the weather being now settled, 
 and the heat that of a genuine American summer, viz. 84° in the 
 shade at noon, I strolled out to see the waterworks on the 
 Schuylkyll, which do great credit to the taste of the Phila- 
 delphians, in having converted into an embellishment to their 
 city, an undertaking designed originally merely for purposes of 
 utility. There are several fountains spouting water, but no ela- 
 borate ornaments, and indeed the simplicity of the whole consti- 
 tutes its great merit. We get a fine view from the top round 
 the margin of the bason which receives the water. 
 
 I had the curiosity Ukewise to visit the ruins of Pensylvania 
 Hall, the building, which a few days ago, as the newspapers 
 relate, fell a victim to the rage of the mob, in consequence of 
 its having been used as a place of meeting for the Abohtionists. 
 
 The shell of this fine structure, which was valued at about 
 40,000 dollars, now alone remains. The complete preservation 
 of the houses on either side of it, which were onlv scorched, al- 
 though one of them consisted merely of wood, shews, how en- 
 tireh^ it was in the power of the firemen to have put out the 
 conflagration of the obnoxious edifice, if they had so pleased, and 
 confirms the account given of the transaction in the pubUc papers, 
 in which they are represented, as having refused to let a single 
 engine play upon the building in question— and this ir; sober- 
 minded and law-respecting Philadelphia ! Verily, the state of 
 feeling on these points would seem to be much the same in the 
 Eastern as in the Western states, and Judge Lynch, if he may 
 not pass such bloody sentences in the Atlantic cities, as he does 
 in the wilds of Mississippi and Arkansas, reigns nevertheless 
 almost equally supreme in both. It is a fearful reflexion to a 
 rich man in Philadelphia, that if he happens to be unpopular, his 
 house and property may be burnt down, without a single fire- 
 
199 
 
 a trip to the Viminia SnrJnl'irf.''''^^^""*'^^^ on taking 
 Baltimore by X 8t;am^S>nt'!;'^ ^ *^'« P^'-Pose proceeded to 
 the rail-road i6 mile? anrVT f "' .^^^^^^tle. thence by 
 distance being " innJ '^Sr^« '^'''' ^'^ fl^'"' *^« -^^l^ 
 hours. After resting hr'p.K ^^^ accomphshed in seven 
 
 to Washington/at^ritrtht;:'^; aUtl o^lol/^"-^^ 
 
 had'^vT^aS l^t,I^::CZr!i'1 '' ^ ^^^*^-' ^^^^ 
 rather curtailed niy op "raTions H-l ?" American summer, 
 
 who in private soSZt« 7 interview with Mr. Clay 
 which 80 wins upon vou n hif '\f '^'^ .'"^^^*y «f "tanner 
 him on West Indian^affa rs iJl A' 'P'"^^"^' ^^^"«d ^vith 
 
 the East iXs. ^ ^™ '"'"'"''■ ' ^""g"' '» ^mind him of 
 
 ing. Then sawX Patenlflffi^. heard some indifferent speak- 
 —-Is. Din^dwUht"a\h"eS,^It„V°"^J"?^f-™™us 
 
 mSdels. D^d with Fe"atheS T"'* ^»»«"« ^ '- cS 
 took my nassam Tn fh. ., ^u^'J^''' ^""J '" 'he evening 
 
 the momHrfhe PottmacS.'^ w ™"™^'' P^^^engers t? 
 ricksburgh. The heat ?n ,1. *' *'""" "'"' ""es of Frede- 
 by the bSiness of the a!" ^^ ""' '"''"^^' """ ' '"« relieved 
 
 proceeded trLnTve Co 'tSnl 'T''"« "^ "'"' ^X them 
 then turned oslyLoZ'^^Zy^M.^ breakfasted. We 
 25. miles, after wLh a stage convCT^d m m ri?' f P'^'^"' 
 a distance of 45 miles. ^nveyed us to Charlottesville, 
 
 The road lay at first through wood hnf »!,« 
 approached Charlottesville, Zd been cl^red^, 'S™*^' ^ ™ 
 ratively n a fine state of rnUhraji^^ r^ . °' ™" "'^^ compa- 
 in full^lossom! and very abundant onl?'' ^P^I '^i ^"' 
 approached our d^^Hnn'o- ^"" -^ -' ■ "?'' ^"'^- ^s we 
 
 .he town the su...C;;Xrj;^rcU':Se S 
 
 : I 
 
 ill I 
 
 Ijji 
 
m 
 
 it 
 
 200 
 
 bounded the horizon. Monticello, the seat of the celebrated 
 Mr. Jefferson, and other country houses, were seen scattered 
 t^u ^^^^*' "^'"' ''y^' »"<i Indian corn abounded. Arrived 
 at Charlottesville in the evening, after a very hot ride j thermo- 
 meter at two p. m. mounting up to 89^ in the shade. Found a 
 decent inn there, kejjt by an Englishman. 
 
 Wednesday, 13th.— Visited the University, situated about a 
 mile from the town. The buildings were planned by Jefferson 
 and, though with nothing grand about them, are convenient and 
 elegant. They constitute a sort of oblong square, with one end 
 open, another closed in by a building with a dome, called the 
 Kotundo, which serves as a library and an incipient museum, 
 and the two longer sides, composed alternately of houses for the 
 professors and rooms for the students, which lie detached one 
 from the other. The form of the rotundo is inconvenient forbear- 
 mg, It being an almost perfect whispering gallery. It is how- 
 ever the onlv room wherein the public exercises of the Univer- 
 sity are conducted. The professors have separate lecture rooms 
 Ihose 1 saw were, Bonnycastle, who appears a superior man, 
 Griffith, and Emmett. 
 
 The University of Virginia was founded by the influence of 
 I'resident Jefferson, on the same principles, and with the same 
 motives, as those which influenced the founders of University 
 College in the London University— namely, the exclusion of all 
 theological mstmction, with the view to bring together, on a foot- 
 ing of perfect equality, persons of all religious creeds and denomi- 
 nations ; so that it bore somewhat the same relation to the older 
 
 universities of the United States, which th^ lutfcw , when first 
 
 PvOWo.^i*^^^^^^'':^^^' '^'^ t" ^-^ford and Cambridge. Within the last few 
 
 '' ^-7^ " Xf^""^' noweyer, public feeling has operated so far, as to induce 
 
 H^CCii4.<c^^ the authorities to modify their system in the above respect, and, 
 
 it 1 am rightly informed, lectures on theology are delivered, and 
 
 religious service on Sunday given, within the precincts of the 
 
 college, at the instance of the young men themselves. 
 
 In another respect also a departure from the original rjlan 
 ot the institution has been found necessary. According to Jeffer- 
 son s own favorite scheme, the education of the students wr, ,, 
 he conducted, solely by appeals to their reason, their hopes, and 
 their generous feelings, and not by the fear of punishment, 
 or the dread of disgrace. This Utopian system was soon found 
 to tail, disturbances arose, the professors were defied, and Mr. 
 Jetterson was himself obliged to come down to restore some- 
 thing like order. Since that time, I believe this University has 
 been conduce;,, m respect to discipline, much on the same plan 
 as the other serai^iries of the United States. 
 
 Professor Kogers, who holds the chair of natural philosophy, 
 
 OXA/X^ 
 
eupenor man, 
 
 201 
 
 j^nr;K^rr:^l:',,S:^''/-„t t'--^^ -posed „, 
 
 wiUinRly agreed to do^e^Sly aT2 '^.r"""""?. "Wch I 
 "iding with his brother th^K.,- """"yras'le. now re- 
 
 low passengers in the Mett 'r trSedt brof^the": 7 '"• 
 
 Accordinfflv after rlinncr .,J ' """7*' "-o "e ol the party. 
 footofthelllK ,/eX^^^^ to a village W the 
 
 the morning joined the rest of th«' /^^ ^ ^""" house, and in 
 
 further. situVed at the en a^e^'*^'. ^^^^ ^ '' '"'''''^' ''' "''^'' 
 which cuts across the ^r.!Zllf ^''" ''^"'^^ ^ "^^'« «ap. 
 north to south through v"il ^'^^^^^^^^^ ^oS 
 
 consisting of Professor Rnlpra^f" ^"^ hreakfast the party. 
 
 Mr. C. I'^mnvcas ?P Tn?^ W^'' younger brother, Dr. Boyd 
 traversing ry^rmeansthS^;/';;"'^^^^^^^ '^^«"?»^ this gl^n 
 bear the LL o{2:m^^I,'X"^ '^^^'"^ ''^'''^ '^^'^^^ 
 
 eas;tt rct\S;t"fngle"%^^^^^ - P"-^^> -»J dip 
 
 talcose; of chloriL slate -of « .n^"''"'''' ""^ "'"^ «Iate, ofte? 
 
 masses of the Sit c!a\eL,i->^^^ '^■'"^'''^' '°""^«d 
 
 cement, highly iSated Ld rn^!"^'!'^ '" ^^•"d of felspathic 
 
 fragments of quar^and if a vP^^"'";"^^ ^"d cemented 
 
 glossy sandstone Thet'rs^Pnnr' ''^1"T' ^"durated, and 
 glen. ^^^ '^''''^' contmue to the summit of the 
 
 des^e'nto^nKosfes'S °' ^^^ "^^^^' ^"^ ^«"^"^«nced our 
 enumerated in SZtoZVZlT''h ^^^ «^ ^he rocS 
 as i\o. I. It rested nnnnT ■ ' ^"^ designated by him 
 
 direction oJU" loXm^'^'r:;^^^^^^^ M^" 
 
 quartzous sandstone sompTiml^- I'l ^ 5^^ '^^'*- ^* ^as a 
 m its texture and at otTfrT ^^^^^ indurated, and uniform 
 cylindrical tubes at rtghtan^^^^^^^^^^^ "ifb^- It contained 
 
 which Rogers regardf as thp l^ni i'*'^?^P*'°" «^ '^^ rock, 
 anunals at the time when It ^"^fj"^'^^ by certain marine 
 
 the sea, a theor;^wMcl^tnrst7h:r ^^ ' ^'^ '^^ '' 
 by some person in England In n?W ^l' ^^^" anticipated 
 fied by the infiltration ^TSlspathLl?e''.Vf' T^ ^f "^^^^- 
 ed or angular fragments of qSz ^ ' ""^ '°^^'^^'^ '^^^d- 
 
 lim^rntEmL^^^^^^^^^ "P- bed No. ., a 
 
 chert. Beds of ho n Z; TeinT^'^'l^ T^".' ""^ "^dules of 
 nites have been found bntfh^ ' f "^^^'^ ^ ^'^^ that ammo- 
 destitute of organic remains Th?.'^ W"'' !," ^^^^^^^ *« be 
 west, but its sSe as we nrnfil^ T^ ^'^T^^ ^^ ^''^ *« the 
 verse direction, tho^igt ^IC^S^^^:^,-^:^ 
 
 ^^t:.^:;^^^' - *he Oedo^ of Virginia, 
 
 Hi 
 
. |: 
 
 202 
 
 asandycharacLand^tXt^^ 
 
 Having descended the opposite side of the ridsewTLfZ^ 
 upon the valley of Virginia, a wide, fertile andT^n^vr^^^^^^^^^^ 
 intervening between this, the most easterly chain called XS ' 
 
 sior'pn'inf.ir *^^,^^"^« of a minister of the Methodist persua- 
 
 bSr^hL. r"\™'"' ^T"^ ^" ^ ^«^"tif"l spot under "he 
 J51ue Kidge, who entertained us gratuitouslv with fr,,^ v- • 
 
 lantastic torms. One apartment was 2t^o feet lono- nnH n/i u 
 
 strata. No bones have been discovered in it. It was nJfmi^ 
 night before we returned to the public house, vh™we had f; 
 sleep,^and the fatigues of the di^ secured ^4 a good nigh,?: 
 
 With respect to the vegetation, I mav observe th^t fi,« i, i 
 mm latifolia abounds on t'he slop'es ofThfSue R-dge and t 
 of uncommon beauty. The azalea viscosa and vaSum ?rnn 
 dosum or who-tleberry, are also common 'T^fr-^ I°°" 
 likewise abounds. The^iews tl rsTmn^jt^^dS^^^^^^ 
 Blue Ridge are extremely beautiful, extenTng ?o CWlllc 
 
 vl;of^s:i:t\Te''s— "« *^ -^^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 and proceeded under the guidance of Dr. Rogers of C?n in-' 
 nati, to Staunton, passing throuffh the vallev nfVi^J- .^^^' 
 a series of limestone strata. The valW waKe InT "^i ""T 
 tivated, but presented none of tho^TtrTkTnf v^^^^^ 
 passage of the Blue Ridge offered us on tL ^eU^nf j^^^^^ 
 Staunton itself 18 a little town, situated between two S ^' 
 taming two churches, and maAy neafhouse ' A^a sWtX" 
 tance is a very respectable and cleanly Lunatic Isvlum t; 
 
 IbTe Jh^t'T'^"^"^ '' P-^^^^"* ''^^'y patients ItTremark 
 able, that there was m it only one coloured wnmL ? iT 
 
 Ki;&Toftr%:ii-^^^^ 
 
 subject to insanity. The want of inteUectuarexSfememrar^sing 
 
203 
 
 Ro'g:rS' i\:i^^t;;^^ ^T' ^^^^ -/ friends, Dr. 
 Staunton at fcL inT morni^.'f^"^ "*^^'' I started 'from 
 along the vaUey of VirffLrover 5 r^ f '''/'' ^"^ Proceeded 
 
 The views were of el vlrv i """^^ '^^^ *« Lexington, 
 dulating foregroTnd^'rttr/Utt"^^^^^^^^^ -'-^ -- 
 
 fine crops of wheat and Indian rnr^ \^'' ^""^ occupied by 
 ground, generally thickly c"ot£dTv^?(, ^"^ a '^^r'^}^ons back- 
 mgton about two p m and .f/. r °^' ' ^'"^^^ ^t Lex- 
 
 same stage within tLmiLsofthatr' r^ '°"".^>'^'^ ^^ ^^e 
 tiiral Bridge, the neareTt ooinf *,r. v?"u^' ^"^"«sity, the Na- 
 carriage. w; got ?o ouf dSf '' k^''^ """ ^^ ^^^^^ed in a 
 and tlok up ou? Jod^?n/fnrT'^'' 1^°"^ «"^^" i" the evening, 
 travellers are received^ ^ '^' "^^^' "* ^ ^^^"^ h^^^e, whefe 
 
 wonS^^riri^i^^^^^^ *« r ^^^^ ^-* -^--^ 
 
 feet high, and go inTn^n J t, , i'""^'*"^""' '^^^ *« be 210 
 cover if being 4' fStTn Vckne'ss'"''"' ^"^^ ^'^ '^^^^ ^^ich 
 
 roal X:l "erlt^^L^rl''^"'^ ""'^-^ *^^ ^"^^^> -d a 
 deep ^nd in sorL places nernin":;'"!^"'?^" ^"^"^« P^^^ of a 
 to a considerable dist"e^rSt:rdr ''""' "''^^ ^^'^^^ 
 
 tan^e^i?^1^^^2Sav^^^°^',-P^^^^^^^ ^^ ^ ^^-^ dis- 
 the great thickness Searcrthlp"-^ ^P^^"^' ^" ^P^^e of 
 in its appearance which rln'nK ^' ^ ^'^^tness and airiness 
 It forms too a nobirfral to f1?i ^l "^ ?''""' ^^^^ ^^P^cted. 
 the aid of contrast the beautiu^^ ^.T"^' «^"ingW, by 
 
 in the bed of the riVef or on th! <^!^^\''^ '^^-l'"'' ^^^* ^'^^ 
 pice above. ThoTgh apparenHv r™' '"^ '^^'^ «^ *^^ P'^ci- 
 this precipice are vet stSfiS ^ ?'''*. '''^•'^^' ^^^ ^ails of 
 or two ad^nturous^ ndSafi '^^T^'u ^'^^ ^"^^led one 
 the arch, and ther"e^ot^cte\!;d^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^f 
 
 W eSnIroft catrwl^JhTet ^'^^"'"^^^ ^^ ^^^ P- 
 derneath it has at iLTh evnn..Hl • f "" "''^ ^^^"» "«- 
 of the contiguous ro?ks But wUT ^>^ ^ ^^^ual removal 
 „r.^^ *u- 1.^,, ^ rocKs. iJut Why the material wliJ^k -„„*_ 
 ■■r-" w.= uuUow Should have remained standing; when "d? 
 
: i» 
 
 
 
 ■; '1 
 
 204 
 
 below and above it had been removed, is, I own, difficult of ex 
 planaticn; for vve must suppose, that there was a time, when 
 the rivulet itself stood higher than the summit of the arch anS 
 when therefore it would have exerted an action upon the Verv 
 imestone rock, which stretches across the chasm, and conS 
 tutes the natural bridge. How therefore came the latter to res 
 the corrosive influence of a current, which has worn away Z 
 rocks on either side of it ? " ^^® 
 
 After contemplating for a sufficient time this extraordinary 
 natural phenomenon, I returned to Lexington on foot haS 
 
 g^^i^fa^igutd- "" '' '"^ '■'' ™^ "''' -• '^^ * 'r? 
 
 Tuesday 19th, at two in the morning, we started for the 
 White Sulphur Springs; and, soon after leaving Lex nffton 
 began to ascend the chain which bounds the valley of VirSnL' • 
 on the west, and which is the same as that noticed by me hfCe 
 under the name of the North West Mountain. The view from 
 Its summit, which must be extensive, was unfortunatelv T 
 
 Twhih'^T'" '"^^ 'T^^^^^ «" *h^ other s^deK^^^^^^^^^ 
 m which Jackson river flows, and observed, along the precT 
 pitous bank of that river, two arches in the rock of a very we 
 marked character. The formation, I believe, was caSZ 
 and the curvature of the arches from east to west Abo, t' 
 midday we reached the little town of Covington! wS is teat 
 tiful y situated Indeed from the time the sun broke out ?h 
 whole of the ride presented us with the finest prospects. ' 
 
 vVe proceeded through a glen hemmed in by lofty mountains 
 till we reached Callaghan's inn, where the valley swell? out S 
 
 Zt' ^i"^^"«?°"t: ^"^"^^-^ ^ ^^"^ «^ b^«i^ encompassed b^ 
 rocks Here is the junction of three roads, one beiuff that 
 
 Swf \"Vr'¥."" from Lexington; another leaK 
 l^-T.u^^ ^"IP^'^^ ^P""^« ^""^ the town of Louisburg and a 
 third that to the Warm Springs. From Callaghan's we f s^cended 
 the AUeghany mountam (as it is termed) to the White sSur 
 
 «S;"^- ?V\' rt' ^^ '^' '^^^ ^^«r« the most beaS 
 azalias and rhododendrons that I had yet seen. The red and 
 yellow species of rhododendron abound, but the blue;* so com. 
 ZT^. ^ first mountain I ascended before reaching Coving- 
 ton, was here absent. The liriodendron was partly out fn 
 
 * Rhododendron maximum var. purpurura. 
 
205 
 
 pilWs. have a cheerfurand S 'l " ^^^^^ 
 
 ^ the more from their "rrei?k^^^ appearance, perhaps 
 
 these buildings slopes ipSft 'the norfh'""^, '"'^"^^^ ^^^^^i» 
 
 fine trees. In the midst stand« « . , ^' ''"'^ contains some 
 
 the spring issues. iTsmeUs s±^^^^^ ^^"^P^e^ from which 
 
 blackens lead, and has a distSle sS^^ 
 
 The name of White Sulphur is Jfv?n^^ f ^*'^\^nd bitter taste. 
 
 the conferva that groruDon T« Z'"™ ^^"^ ^^^^^ colour of 
 
 vaUey, and of the mountains th./?, ''/: • ^^" ^'^^^ ^^ the 
 
 tiful. In theafteroonlsr&oK^^^^ 
 
 burg, but met with few plants. direction of Louis- 
 
 grel^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 far from containing its^uTal^omni/-. ^' f"'^ '"^''^' '^^"^^ 
 rapidly, but there was no" muT^nT * ""^ ^^uests, was filliL 
 
 Rambling estabhshmentrclXctedCL"^^ ^ ^'^"^ ^itS? 
 
 distance from the other parts of the fW '^°^^^P1« ^^ a modest 
 nages were to be obtaine^d , Ld tr^sS /' f "^'^^ f ^^- 
 few resources for a sohtarnVaveUer fill T iJ *t^^efore to be but 
 to get on to the Warm E^fL T^'^^^' ^ ^^^s also anxious 
 tions, made with resZ^tn fhl ^■^^'' **" ^^"^X the observa- 
 locality by profelrKe^ whicCr-"V^^ ^«^k« i" that 
 
 portant confirmation of 4 o^nn^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^" i"^- 
 
 to the connexion, between the Sn^! f./'"'^'' ^^*^ ^««Pect 
 that of great physical concisions nth.«?^ '^^''?"^ vvaters, and 
 
 Professor Rogers had sWn *haM. '"^J^^^ding country, 
 out exactly at fhe point at whi^h the rL?'^^ 
 Cham appear to have been upheaved thpiS' f '^' Alleghany 
 the springs dipping at an h"gh anl toM '^' ""^ l^' '^'^ «f 
 
 an independent observe? to fived I„^'"'' '" " P",''"""' "'''i* 
 beUveen.het.„p,^enoi;ik:a*r;^„:P„r^ 
 
 ?ti 
 
■ ■'A 
 
 ii, 
 
 206 
 
 between the cause which has disturbed the one, and that which 
 communicated the mcreased temperature to the other * 
 
 At day-break therefore I started for the Warm Sprinffs, re- 
 turning for a considerable part of the way by the saj mad 
 that nad brought me on Tuesday to my starting-placT We 
 reached Cal aghan's inn to breakfast, afterwards pmceeded up a 
 pretty considerable hill in a mountain defile, and then descended 
 
 only that the views were more circumscribed in consequence of 
 the density of the forest, a very small proportion of the country 
 we travelled over having been reclaimed. ^ 
 
 ♦1, ^u "IV^^-^ "^^ ^V^",' ^^"^y ™^^*^« w« reached about one o'clock 
 the Hot bpnng, which IS situated in a narrow valley bounded 
 by lofty and wooded hills. Its situation certainly does not strike 
 one so much as that of the White Sulphur, but it is nevertheless 
 phasing and romantic. The accommodations which the place 
 affords are somewhat of the same character as the former but 
 inferior in style and pretensions. They consist of an hotel 
 T"!? . ''u^i''"^ buildmg with a piazza in front, and of a numbed 
 of detached wooden cabins dotted about the grounds without 
 much attention to symmetry. I collected the gas which issues 
 m bubbles from the swimming bath, the temperature of which 
 
 irS ^.' '°'°- J '^"^^ ^''''' ^" '' b"^ li«l« carbonic acid! 
 probably not more than one per cent., but phosphorus caused 
 an absorption of four per cent., taking the mea/of three expe- 
 nments which corresponded very nearly. Hencs I set down the 
 composition of the gas as being 6 oxygen, 94 nitrogen. The 
 water is destitute of taste, and perfectly pure and limpid but 
 some travertine, seen on its borders, shews the presence in'it of 
 calcareous matter. I next examined for about a mile the rocks 
 to the west of the spring. They were nearly vertical, with a 
 slight mclmation to the west, and consisted of a ferruginous 
 sandstone, a white sandstone, a shale, and a fossiliferous lime- 
 is tone* 
 
 In the morning of Friday the 22d, I walked to and from the 
 fo^ 4". i w '" ^^'^^radistinction to the Hot Spring before alluded 
 to, the "Warm Spring," m consequence of its somewhat lower 
 temperature. Though both gush out of, what may be termed 
 in an enlarged sense, the same valley, still there are several 
 inequalities of ground intervening between the two places, and 
 a considerable hill to be surmounted in crossing from one to the 
 
 * ^^e .\^,T°''" ""^ ""^"^ " O" Thermal Springs, and their con 
 nexion with Vo Icanos," in Jameson's Journal foi- aS^H, 18,2 and mv 
 « Report on Mineral M^aters," in the Transactions of the 8^^!, A Z 
 sociaiion ror the advancement of Science, tor 1836. 
 
207 
 
 teto'th "'f'' '^''^'^^"-''■Zt^.lsr'^' remains, and 
 
 para/ ^'s Jllr?^: Lt bt"^^'' -5'' KppC 
 
 d pretty sequestered spot in tha Z-J .% ' ^"^ P^ace itself i« 
 tejns an hotel, which sS d teU tot and T",'^' ^^ con'! 
 fare I had met with in Vireinia ȣ!' . "^ afforded me the best 
 not over famous for the gS:rofttf f^i',™^' "" '""^'-'t 
 
 On Saturday, the -jo #1 *i,« 
 »ough to dri^e mt olTt'^th^y:' 1'^' '"'* '«" <""igin« 
 
 beautiful bed :?tSirt„t*^, -aks "^ -'■ich^^s'?het:s1 
 many acres, which I h^e et" s en ""f^T '??"S "ver a fleMoJ 
 18 c^ed, ,s a cascade, which as f.V /''"'"? Spring, as °t 
 
 in the sultry weather we wert .v,? • ■ ""'" bath ffratefiil 
 ban was necessary for AaTpuZr ^"f "I ■?<>« S 
 
 Neottia, and SSm'plSatr'Th^" Orcht'feyt 
 calcareous, lying i„ „earfy vertica ulra.?' ""'^ "" Principity 
 
 Alipi'iiigrarftTs^r?^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 "«M.m, the temperatureof wijich Zlf: '^p, ""d a half mUes" 
 
 ^^ ""OS. 1 he stratification 
 
 ; 
 
'I 
 
 ' I? 
 
 208 
 
 afsete"" °° "^ ''^' " "»' ^»™ Spring" I have noticed 
 
 them's ofThe Hof s""""""? ""= ^'™«"« of «'« --ocks on 
 and:atr°l:!;;t v'e^^^b; thrXel^tZ Vf '"".^^^^^^^^ 
 
 means a disagreeable one '=""«rea me expedient by no 
 
 fat sheepl aold foftSnd a KXi '"''''"• '" '"" ' 
 waKktf tiiTH^'f ^"•'''■'^'■'•''^f''^'.'-'' «et off on our 
 
 pJut;t'thf„g'hTitrr';a ^„£':f <>-'' /----*. and 
 
 *• 
 
1 1 have noticed 
 
 209 
 
 ^e approach Warm SnHnf ^ ^^f".' ^"^ ^^ observ^ing- hS «! 
 a higW angle, tiU a&h C h'"^ '^^^ ^^P ^^ ^ hfgher and 
 notice the same rocks, as fntheln'''"'' "^"^^^ ^^^ti^^ We 
 
 ofX T*"""^ '«^k as at the Hof *jil"'^^'.^"*- I ^und the 
 of the vaUey, and observed itUli • P""^^'' ^" ^he lowest nart 
 
 of eTe?o?h *"^ ^r"^- Wri'r 1^^^^^^ r^^^^«^ 
 bv fh. u^""^ ^"^ consequentl7is,L f l^e north and south 
 
 Wednesday, June 27tl] ^a* /: , . 
 leave of the iarm Snrwlfter h '.i!''^' ™""»i"& I took a final 
 CI0U8 waters. Proceed ng btthet^'"^ '""'x^ "^"^^ ^« ^t'dS^ 
 fim crossed the same moC'ain ^S^ ^ H^^^aysburgh, we 
 
 fcrtxrg - ^^^^^^^^ ^^y. 
 
 Mountain and the Blue Riirrr"^ ^^*^^^» the Nonh 
 diversified by hill and dale, W ^ '.'""''^ ^^« Pl^^singly 
 but there was nothing verv bnlrf ' ^^f"^^^' ^"^ arable lamf 
 Dined at Augusta spring a we^k coff^T.^^ '^' '''^' 
 
 nightfall, having accomnU«i,.^ i ^t Hohdaysburffh ahnnf 
 since morning. ^ "^^^"^Pl'shed rather more than fifty ZZ 
 
 ^^fpinl^p7l^^^^^ ^;/- ^o- /eioek in a st ge 
 to set down the AmeriS i ^^^'"^^^^^^ren. Had reasfn 
 conveyances than the Sish-Tr ?:'^.'^"^™«datingTn tS 
 that to consult the convtfen ^ W^nefn/ T'! ^e confessed! 
 of the comfort often, as was in f hi • . "'^''''^"^ ^t the expense 
 good as a general rule. Tfa? QuSfaX! "'^ ^''' "°*'^"^ 
 
 T3 ' 
 
['I ■ 
 
 fi4 
 111 
 
 
 #■*; 
 
 ,; . r .1 
 
 i*< 
 
 
 
 210 
 
 begged 80 hard for herself and her little black slave to be 
 admitted, after the stage had obtained its full complement of 
 
 LTft"^®^^' •, * °"® J'®"°" ^^^'^ ^" his opposition, and then 
 another, until an appeal was at length made to the driver, who 
 merely said, ^vith the usual sanfffroid of these gents in America, 
 u, suit yourselves; you may have fourteen inside if you hke 
 It, tor ought I care." Accordingly the lady's party gained the 
 day, and we did not get on the better by this addition to our 
 numbers, either in point of comfort or expedition. The road 
 was as bad as seemed at all compatible with travelling in so 
 lumbenng a vehicle, being rough in all parts, and actually 
 dangerous in some. Twice during the journey the wheel gci 
 so implanted in the mud, that all the available strength of the 
 party was put into requisition to assist in the task of extricating 
 It. un the second occasion, which happened after dark, half 
 an hour at least was consumed in the labour of draffffin^ the 
 ponderous concern out of the mire, the whole of the male part of 
 the passengers literally "putting their shoulders to the wheel," 
 and applying the stakes taken from the snake-fence close to 
 the road, as levers to elevate it from its sunken position, 
 or as planks on which it might glide until it had arrived on 
 rerm ;ima. It was curious to observe the tranquillity with 
 which he Quaker lady remained all the time in the coach, 
 ^vhllst the rest of us got out, under the apprehension lest 
 the horses, m their efforts to pull the vehicle out of the mire. 
 Should upset It. Nothing however seemed to disturb the pla- 
 cidity ot her countenance. Notwithstanding these httle adven- 
 tures, we arrived in safety at Winchester about eleven at night, 
 having accomplished more than seventy miles in nineteen hours, 
 stoppages included. 
 
 The road this day lay through the valley of the Schenandoah, 
 having on its right the Blue Ridge, and on its left a fine tract 
 of cultivated country. The Blue Ridge, like the other chains 
 composing the Alleghany range, is remarkable for its regular 
 and even outline; being interrupted only at distant intervals 
 by gaps, of which advantage is taken for roads. One of these 
 gaps leads to Staunton. 
 
 It is throughout a pleasant ride, but the latter porti. i, twenty 
 or thirty miles from Winchester, abounds uarticularly in fine 
 views. About fifteen miles south of that city, I saw one of the 
 best country seats that had come under my notice in America 
 placed too m as fine a position as any in the whole country. It 
 belonged to a gentleman named Hoyte, and is at present occupied 
 by his widow. The rarity of mansions of a better kind than farm 
 
 nu" w*"^"^^^ "^^ *° "°*® ^^^" /\"y ^"^^ *^^* ^^^^^' ^^^ ^ock 
 f " j"T? ^'f ^^^^ '"^° limestone, (No. a. of Rogers), which pro- 
 truded in large irregular masses through the soil, proving the 
 
211 
 
 rTut''Tl1ip^:fXsSrj;rr"'^ ^"^ discomfort of ^ 
 Blue Ridge The fare at f^f' iB.m general towards the 
 rate, as indeed auV^lfn^fu '""' ^^'^ ^^y '^^« ^^'Y mode- 
 Charlottesvnie anSTst^nn'. ^^' TT^" '^'^ ^^ Virginia. At 
 
 eomfortabi::";rttette^^ 
 
 was worthy of all or^rr^r^^^A T. ""^^ rry s at the W arm Sprmffs 
 great slovJmlnet and b". fnl^S^ but /or the most part tLe U 
 public entertaTnrenutXrouUhUStr'^' " "-^ '"'^'^ "' 
 
 up my q^r?er^for^t day a'tThe fn?"' "T' "^f' =""* '""i^ 
 contemplatinir IhrUn, „.,! i ""■ "! "'''" '" have time for 
 
 «. mucrat upon '" '"'^'>' '''"''> ^r. Jefferaon ha» 
 
 be&e^S'^f '.h': ':!^i ^T f ^"T."'»' "'"^'i 'here 
 
 river, is situSe'^n a gap,7r1S:sm"'iTthf rJ Ti"^"^ ""= 
 several miles before reaching itT^' "'.Jbe Blue Ridge. For 
 Chester, we have to nmS ,£ ""J "" ^"'^'^"°" "f Win- 
 
 lUdge/which M HarPfper^t "Sts'r''^' 'V^' "^'"^ 
 >n which the river Poto^ma/flr-' S ^'.^'' ™g'« another 
 
 a^n^.eva.edUto?fard!V&ir';;;:?;^t^^^^^ 
 
 ^or;r^M„r^^,:nand w^^^^^^ 
 
 the AihntT^i kLwnoTwhethTL"™ •''''' ? "?"«' =>"<•«« 
 
 and regular^ine. At bottomToweveX *kerro''.r'''j' T° 
 in various places and i« fr,„r,^ naKea rock protrudes 
 
 clayslate alSSng Jh ™ Jrt.v^^T'™ '" ™°^'«' <>f 
 highly inclined to tL Sst ^ "^ conglomerate, in strata 
 
 behgVfit'th: stdelfor'hlf t- T'"^'" '^^^ ^''""'^ «» »>» as 
 I wa! obliged to conienrnivaerwtr''rr^°™ *ermometer 
 point as I could obtain Si T ^?"f'""'''"™''<"> »" 'bis 
 
 evening, after having cJbed"„™rjffff/ ^'"'^' ^'« '" *« 
 ceeded alon^ the h»„*i™ftu? ".'!-"'•'«?"'""' ^. Rock, 1 pro- 
 then returned through a glen Z'oT.'n "'".' "-'f °'' '""''^d 
 kalmias, which ^^^r.V&'.IZ^-ZAlt^TZZ'. 
 

 I' ♦ 
 
 'k^,;, 
 
 212 
 
 ance. On my return. I had a etroU along the banks of the 
 Schenandoah by the light of the moon, enjoying the brilliancy 
 of that lummary and the flittering light of the fire-flies, less 
 numerous here however than they w?re in Arkansas evin in 
 
 thL^wi^ '^""i?- ^ 5^""°.' ^"'^^^"^ ^ ^«"«^ Pl^ce in summer 
 lr« JP^'f ^'?>''f'°"',**« P««'*^«» between two precipitous 
 ledges of rock, reflectmg their heat upon the valley in which it 
 stands ; nor can I conceive any place more likely to be visited 
 with extreme cold whenever the wind in winter blows either 
 
 m^e sleepTng. ^ ^^\ '* '^ ^'"^^ ^^'' "'^^^ ^« *° P^^^«"t 
 
 Saturdajr, June 30th.~I proceeded by the rail-cars to Balti- 
 more, passing along some very fine and romantic scenery. For 
 the first twelve miles till we reach the Point of Rocks, the pass 
 continues as narrow and precipitous as it is at Harper's Ferry. 
 Ihe rocks at first were of the same description as before, bit 
 near the Point of Rocks occurs that conglomerate, of which the 
 columns of the House of Representatives at Washington are 
 constructed and a little serpentine is seen beyond it. Having 
 proceeded through this defile, we entered upon a fine arable and 
 pasture country, diversified with hill and dale, which spreads 
 over a considerable part of Maryland. Here the crops of 
 wheat, rye, and maize, were most luxuriant. The river Poto- 
 mac pursued its tortuous and rocky course through the midst 
 
 ^hZlJ '""T^ ^' '• '"?"*• ^^ ^^"^«d at Baltimore 
 aDout tive p. m., after expenencing on the road a severe thunder 
 storm, accompanied with deluges of rain. This cooled the air 
 somewhat, and enabled me to proceed to Philadelphia by the 
 steam conveyance with less inconvenience. We slept in the 
 vessel, as we could, upon benches, and arrived at ou^destina- 
 tion by about four o'clock on Sunday morning. 
 
 Pl^n^H tl-^"1- ^^"''^^ "^^^ ? *^' ^"^^ I could allow myself at 
 Philadelphia, for seeing my friends, and making arrangements 
 for departure My luggage had at length arrived from the 
 West and the time was approaching which I had fixed upon 
 for setting sail from New York. On Monday I went ove? to 
 Bar rams garden, where I saw some fine trees - especially 
 cafalpas, magnolias, &c. The cupressus disticha, from its size 
 and height, is the pride of the garden, which is kept in a slo- 
 venly manner. I also got a glimpse of PeaPs new museum, 
 which does great credit to his taste, and to the spirit of Ms 
 supporters. There is one fine saloon with gaUeries extendinff 
 round its sides, fitted up with cases of natural and artificid 
 curiosities The skeleton of the mastodon in the centr. ^ 
 however ihe great object of interest. It is to be hoped/that 
 
213 
 
 t?mu'eum7uMiUh?'h^^ *" emulate Philadelphia in respect 
 10 museums, until they become more of a national object. 
 
 ♦1, ^".'^"^sday, July 3rd, I started for New York and «rritr«^ 
 there to dmner, though we met with some little dekv 1 ^ 
 
 calculate that not fewer than 700 persons were in the former 
 
 h"tt- j„ &xrr A?L^^^ ^^^^ 
 
 a stnkmg contrast to what one witnesses duriniaToHdaTin 
 France. I went into the Tabernacle, where I heard f?om Hr 
 Becher, the President of a ColWe ii Illinni« n i«^ ? ' 
 prosy address. The spirit of itTas'dedS; 'abollo'^s't Tnl 
 there were some good home thrusts »t th^I , """"O"'^^' and 
 
 of the city and bay, and illuminated by all the brilWv ofTn 
 
 part devoured, the stench for many yards fr^m/hp ^^^. •" 
 Unbly offensiye. It does not ap"ear,Vatt e W^ are dSred 
 by the effluvia, or that tho far^ir roo.o.^„ .i-„ ^ ^/e.^eterred 
 
 dition of the food ^y sufficient Vea"?nTr Sd^^'Sfrni 
 
IIP 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 ■' I, 
 
 ij -1; 
 
 " ! i ! 
 1 Vi 
 
 214 
 
 it. All that was necessary, he said, was to sweeten them before 
 
 it'jrofT„dia"„r;„'.''' "^ ■""""« """" "" » '""^ '-«»" 
 
 From Saturday tiy Monday, chiefly occupied with arrange- 
 ments for my departure. In the evening of the latter day croS 
 over to Hoboken and obtained specimens of .eri.entine^hydme 
 of magnesia, carbonate of ditto, and an asbeitiform mfnera] 
 caUed marmohte; enjoying at the same time some charming 
 v^ews of New York and of the Hudson River from the w2 
 beSuh '• ^' ^°""try"o^ looks most verdant and 
 
 At length, on Tuesday, July loth, the time for my denarturP 
 from the New World had arrived; and at elevenVclock on 
 that morning I embarked on board the packet ship Samson 
 Cantain Sturges, for London. By the afternoon the stSm"; 
 haa towed us out into the main sea, and a fair breeze aimiTed 
 well of our future progress Nor were we disappointed. ThS 
 
 IhrfnH 7>,'''^' k'™P .""^ ^^«*y' '^' ^i^d continued favour- 
 able and throughout the voyage never increased to a gale I 
 therefore experienced few of the ordinary miseries of a sea 
 voyage; ancf on the i8th day came in sight of PortsmonfK 
 Nothing could be better than'the arrangelnts on SrTand 
 as there were few passengers, each one had a cabin to himself 
 
 thJ^^pJl'r terminates my tour through the several portions of 
 the great American Repubhc, from which, if I have gleaned a 
 more scanty harvest than my sanguine expectations hid previ- 
 ously prepared me to anticipate, I may at least hope to^have 
 denved in addition to some insight into the physical characters 
 
 l'jr*r'^"'"I' ' J^'^'u^PP^^^'^^i^" of a people closely con! 
 nected with ourselves, by the ties of origin, of languaffe and of 
 national physiognomy. No doubt, in looking overSoregoin J 
 pages, some inconsistencies may be detected between the impres? 
 3'f .'fP''* *° *^' country and people, which arose in my 
 mmd from the occurrences of each' day-temporary annoyances 
 may have imparted a too unfavourable colouring to them at 
 one time, or acts of personal kindness and civility mav have 
 gven to my view of things too partial a gloss at another. Never! 
 theless, I think, that those who may peruse hereafter these 
 rough notes, will collect from their general import, that/S^hS 
 not a servile admirer of the American people) I am disposed^to 
 give them credit for the possession of many of thoseTerfinff 
 qualities, which, m a state of fuller development, at least as we 
 are aot to flatter nnrsplirpc oo«o*u,,*. *u„S,- • ' / , L • -^.^ 
 
 . ,^.,^ vv-iaowvUic uic uasia 01 cne British 
 
ith arrange- 
 ' day crossed 
 tine, hydrate 
 rm mineral, 
 le charming 
 m the walk 
 verdant and 
 
 ly departure 
 o'clock on 
 iip Samson, 
 he steamer 
 !ze augured 
 id. Though 
 led favour- 
 ) a gale. I 
 '8 of a sea 
 Portsmouth, 
 board, and 
 3 himself. 
 
 portions of 
 ! gleaned a 
 had previ- 
 pe to have 
 characters 
 losely con- 
 ige, and of 
 3 foregoing 
 he impres- 
 rose in my 
 nnoyances 
 ) them at 
 may have 
 ;r. Never- 
 fter these 
 , although 
 isposed to 
 ie sterling 
 3ast as we 
 le Britifih 
 
 215 
 
 t;":rgre\l^^^^^^^ *'' '""'^ ^-^^''^"^^^^ «^*^^ --t of our 
 With respect too to those traits, which are apt to strike a 
 stranger as most annoving and repulsive in h s intercourse 
 With American society, /fear it must be admitted. thltlSv are 
 often only exaggerations of qualities of mind, which thevLv! 
 inherited from the parent stock, and which fore«ners Yn thl« 
 country find but too much reason to remark in ourselves I Ho 
 not of course allude to the discomforts wh ch an EnSishi^n 
 encounters m the United States, from the exttence of SiT's 
 7t uT? l^^^"^«J «tage of refinement will by decrees' 
 efface-^but to that restless spirit of adventure, thatiWXess 
 after gain, that comparative indifference to mere amusem^nJ 
 
 To the Anglo-Saxon race, as to the Roman in ancient davs 
 
 t^aLh/P^^^'^ '^ r^^^, °^*^^ P«^*' ^ith this only difference^ 
 that the conquests of modern civilisation are effected; nirby the 
 
 rcrn^:c'et^%rgSio^- '^ '^^ «^^- -' p-^«^ p-^- 
 
 Excudent alii spirantia mollius sera : 
 Credo equidem, vivos ducent de marmore vultus : 
 Urahunt caussas melius ; ccelique meatus 
 IJescnbent radio, et surgentia sidera dicent : 
 1 u regere imperio populos, Romane, memento ; 
 tied tibi erunt artes. 
 
 attributed tll'^^'f *^ -^^ '°^^"''« °^ temnerament which is 
 attributed to the American people, their indifference to social 
 intercourse, and their liability to be acted upon by an apped 
 rather to their interests, than t'o their feelings, I may remark that' 
 the influence which would be exercised, by the peculiaTdrcum 
 stances of their position, on a nation poLessinr^he vSou." 
 and practical understandings which distinguish ?h^e BritTrace 
 
 We must also recollect, that if the Americans exhibit in an 
 exaggerated degree those failings which other EuroSi^^iu 
 mties ascribe to ourselves, the/also possess in the mainXs^ 
 domestic virtues which the latter are ready to concede Tom Zl 
 can there be a greater mistake than to suppose, that frivo itv of 
 mind IS any security against selfishness, or that men are more 
 prone to obey the laws of morality, because they d'spLy a less 
 degree of earnestness in the prosecution of th.i/ Sr5Jj!f ' 
 or 01 amuuion. 1 forget whether it is Madame^"de'staef"o; 
 
w 
 
 
 I- '• 
 
 216 
 
 Rousseau, who has observed— but the remark, from whonisoeve^ 
 it may proceed, appears a sound one — " that a fixity or stead- 
 fastness of character, whether in nations or in individuals, is a 
 •quality^ highly favourable to morality. He who can be moved 
 from his purpose by every gUst of passion, or fascination of no- 
 velty, is all the more liable to svV6rve from the path of rectitude, 
 when interest points out to him a course opposed to that of 
 duty.'* 
 
 I see therefore no reason to doubt, that, with increasing pro- 
 sperity and more advanced civilisation, the American people will 
 obtain also a greater elevation of character — or that the ascend- 
 anc\', which hey appear to be acquiring over the other nations 
 of European extraction spread over the vast regions of the New 
 World, is an omen of future good to the human race, and a 
 circumstance which may be regarded with just pride and com- 
 placency by their brethren on this side of the Atlantic. 
 
 With respect to their Institutions, I have said less concerning 
 them, than I might have otherwise done, had I not been from 
 the first persuaded, that democracy is a necessary consequence 
 of such a state of society as that which exists m the United 
 States, or at least one only to be exchanged for a stringent 
 military despotism. 
 
 To point out disadvantages which appear irremediable, is 
 neither a very useful, nor yet a pleasant task j but I have never- 
 theless on several occasions shewn myself sensible to the evils 
 which such a government entails — to the tyranny of public opin- 
 ion, the truckling to a mob, the tendency' wliich it has to throw 
 the conduct of political affairs in a great measure out of the 
 hands of the most upright and the most enlightened portion of 
 the community. 
 
 ITiese evils are, it must be confessed, in a certain degree mo- 
 derated in the United States, by the general diffusion of com- 
 petency, education, and common sense; but in Europe they 
 would become intolerable, as they would extend to the destruc- 
 tion, not merely of the legitimate influence of property over num- 
 bers, but even to. the - d es tr uetien of property itself, and thus 
 render the other alternative of an arbitrary government a con- 
 dition infinitely preferable. 
 
 But I am loath to wind up with a sentence, which, if it should 
 ever meet the eye of brother Jonathan, might gall the sensitive- 
 ness of so thin-skinned a personage. 
 
 In bidding farewell then to a land, in which I have expe- 
 rienced so much hospitality and kindness, as has at times made 
 me forget, that the broad Atlantic separated me from my native 
 shores — 1 will conclude these hasty notes with the remark, that 
 since, in my estimation, political institutions are one only 
 
*om whonisoeveir 
 fixity or stead- 
 individuals, is a 
 ) can be moVed 
 iscination of tio- 
 »ath of rectitude, 
 3osed to that of 
 
 increasing pro- 
 rican people will 
 that the ascend- 
 he other nations 
 [ions of the New 
 man race, and a 
 pride and com- 
 tlantic. 
 
 i less concerning 
 [ not been from 
 ary consequence 
 3 in the United 
 for a stringent 
 
 irremediable, is 
 ut I have never- 
 iible to the evils 
 ^ of pubhc opin- 
 i it has to throw 
 sure out of the 
 tened portion of 
 
 tain degree mo- 
 ffusion of com- 
 in Europe they 
 I to the destruc- 
 perty over num- 
 itself, and thus 
 ^ernment a con- 
 
 lich, if it should 
 11 the sensitive- 
 
 ;h I have expe- 
 s at times made 
 from my native 
 he remark, that 
 are one only 
 
 217 
 
 amongst many elements that together serve to determine the 
 character and condition of a people, the unfavorable opinion. 
 r„ai .T ^r-^^^*^^* Pf haps may have led me to entertain, with 
 respect to the form of government which is established in the 
 United States, has not caused me to overlook the points in 
 which the citizens of this Republic possess a real superioritv 
 over the nations of the Old World. superiority 
 
 Such, for example, is the diffusion, in the better portions of 
 the Union at least, of those moral habits, and of that general 
 respectability of demeanour, which belong peculiarly to the 
 middle classes in Lurope, over a comparatively wider area of 
 society— such, the surprising advances which they seem to be 
 making m material prosperity-^such, their rapid conquests over 
 external nature-and above all, that exemption from absolute 
 want, which every individual, to whom God has given but the 
 use of his hmbs and faculties, may feel himself almost secure 
 ot obtaining, in some portion or other of a Continent, at once 
 so boundless m its resources, and so vast in its extent. 
 
218 
 
 i:iJ 
 
 ;:■♦ 
 
 .1? 
 
 Ref. 
 
 to 
 
 Jour- 
 
 nal. 
 
 Page, 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 Place, Latitude, and 
 Longitude. 
 
 Off coast of Hampshire 
 Off coast cf Dorset . . 
 
 *jsAt 49*3^ *•••■ 
 
 49-1 
 
 49.28 LoDg.6.36 
 S0.5 9.19 
 
 .... X2.C 
 
 »3 
 
 49 
 47.27 
 
 48.S 
 48.40 
 
 46.45 
 44.40 
 
 43-4» 
 43-43 
 43«8 
 4330 
 
 • • • • 
 
 44-45 
 45-i» 
 45-3<> 
 45-40 
 
 44-50 
 42.«9 
 41.10 
 
 41-30 
 
 43.30 
 
 44-00 
 42.5* 
 
 41.0 
 40.40 
 39-54 
 395° 
 39-27 
 Off Sandy Hook 
 
 Anchored at N. York 
 
 i\v i-vew xork 
 
 Ditto 
 
 H.7 
 
 13.3s 
 'S.30 
 17.40 
 
 17.34 
 20.15 
 31.41 
 24.18 
 28.38 
 
 30.45 
 
 32.9 
 
 33.22 
 
 34.52 
 37-3 
 40.14 
 42.2 
 
 45.45 
 48.23 
 50.48 
 
 52.10 
 
 53-5» 
 
 57.18 
 
 57.58 
 63.0 
 
 65.43 
 67.24 
 
 67.34 
 09.27 
 
 71.J3 
 
 
 65 
 64 
 64 
 
 • • 
 
 64 
 64 
 
 66 
 68 
 68 
 68 
 72 
 72 
 71 
 71 
 71 
 65 
 64 
 72 
 66 
 64 
 
 it) 
 
 60 
 61 
 
 63i 
 
 66 
 
 62 
 
 69 
 
 72 
 
 65 
 4 
 
 METEOHOLOOICAL OBSERVATZONS. 
 
 1837. 
 
 Jul. 22, 
 
 23, 
 24, 
 
 26, 
 
 27, 
 28, 
 29 
 
 30, 
 
 Aug. I, 
 2, 
 3) 
 4> 
 
 6, 
 
 7, 
 8, 
 
 9> 
 10, 
 
 12, 
 »3, 
 14, 
 '5, 
 16, 
 
 I7,{' 
 
 18, 
 
 >9, 
 20, 
 
 21, 
 22, 
 
 23, 
 
 24, 
 «5» 
 26, 
 
 27, 
 28, 
 
 29> 
 
 12 a. m. 
 12 a. m. 
 12 a.m. 
 
 1 p.m. 
 12 a.m. 
 
 4 p.m. 
 3 p.m. 
 
 3 p«m. 
 3 p.m. 
 3 p.m. 
 3 p.m. 
 3 p.m. 
 3 p.m. 
 3 p.m. 
 3 p.m. 
 3 p. m. 
 3 p.m. 
 3 p.m. 
 3 p.m. 
 3 p.m. 
 3 p.m. 
 3 P-m. 
 3 P-m. 
 3 P-m. 
 3 p.m. 
 
 2 a. m. 
 
 3 P-m. 
 3 p.m. 
 3 p.m. 
 
 3 p.m. 
 
 4 p.m. 
 4 p.m. 
 4 p.m. 
 4 p.m. 
 4 p.m. 
 4 p.m. 
 
 12 a.m. 
 
 II a.m. 
 
 3 p.m. 
 
 30, 
 
 Temperat. and Solar 
 
 humid, .fair 
 
 Thermometer. ^^^^' 
 nom- 
 
 Rod. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 67 
 
 6i 
 
 65 
 70 
 68 
 66 
 
 65 
 
 06 
 
 66 
 66 
 74 
 74 
 
 72 
 
 • ■ 
 
 73 
 60 
 
 63 
 66 
 67 
 
 60 
 
 69 
 64 
 
 65 
 
 67 
 
 85 
 85 
 
 Wet. eter, 
 
 58 
 
 59 
 
 56 
 
 S6 
 
 7.0 
 6.0 
 8.0 
 
 9-5 
 7.0 
 
 7.5 
 
 7.0 
 8.0 
 
 8.0 
 8.0 
 
 3.0 
 
OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Temperat. and Solar 
 
 humid, .fair 
 
 Rod. 
 
 Thermometer. •^'^**" 
 nom- 
 
 Wet. leter. 
 
 67 
 
 65 
 70 
 68 
 66 
 
 59 
 
 56 
 
 S6 
 
 7.0 
 6^ 
 8.0 
 
 9'S 
 7.0 
 
 7-S 
 
 7.0 
 8.0 
 
 8.0 
 8.0 
 
 3.0 
 
 219 
 
 
 ITINERABY. 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL 
 
 Ref. 
 to 
 1 Jour 
 nal. 
 
 
 OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 
 
 Temper. Solar 
 
 Place. 
 
 »837. 
 
 of air. 
 
 Radiat. 
 
 Patte 
 
 
 Therm 
 
 . Actino- 
 
 
 
 
 Dry. 
 
 meter. 
 
 14 
 >5 
 
 New York 
 
 To West-point 
 
 Aug. 31, 10 p.m. 
 Sept. 4. 
 
 77 
 
 
 ; 16 
 
 To Albany 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 To Lebanon 
 
 9 
 
 10, 12 a.m. 
 
 
 
 18 
 24 
 
 To the Shakers' village 
 To Ballston 7. 
 
 75 
 
 14.85 
 
 25 
 
 To Saratoga 
 
 *»> 7 P-ni. 
 12 
 
 57-5 
 
 
 26 
 
 To Whitehall 
 
 13 
 14 
 
 
 
 27 
 
 On Lake Champlain 
 
 
 
 ■ — 
 
 To Montreal 
 
 15 
 17 
 21 
 
 
 
 28 
 
 To Quebec 
 
 
 
 30 
 
 Started for Montreal 
 
 
 
 mmmm 
 
 In the steamer on the 
 St. Lawrence .... 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 31 
 
 Reached Montreal . . 
 
 23 
 
 25 
 27 
 28 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 On the Ottawa river 
 
 
 
 32 
 
 Reached Bytown 
 
 
 
 34 
 
 On Lake Chat 
 
 
 
 35 
 
 On the Rideaii Canal 
 
 Oct. 2 
 
 
 
 36 
 
 Reached Kingston . . 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 On the Bay of Quinte 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 3« 
 
 Reached Cobourg. . . . 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 10 
 
 
 
 — . 
 
 Reached Toronto 
 
 
 
 39 
 
 On Lake Simcoe 
 
 
 
 40 
 
 At Mr. Lally's 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 42 
 
 On Lake Simcoe .... 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 43 
 
 To Toronto 
 
 15 
 
 17 
 18 
 
 
 
 
 To Niagara Falls.... 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 To Buffalo 
 
 
 
 44 
 
 At Buffalo 
 
 »9 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 45 
 
 Back to Niagara Falls 
 
 
 
 48 
 
 To Leweston 
 
 23 
 24 
 
 26 
 
 ( 
 
 
 49 
 
 To Rochester 
 
 
 
 50 
 
 To Auburn 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 At Auburn 
 
 37 
 28 
 
 
 
 SI 
 
 To Syracuse 
 
 
 
 52 
 
 To Trenton Falls . . 
 
 29 
 30 
 31 
 
 Nor. I 
 
 
 
 
 At Trenton Falls. . . . 
 
 
 
 53 
 
 To Albany 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 To New York 
 
 
 
 54 
 
 To Newhaven 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 U 2 
 
820 
 
 Ref. 
 to 
 Jour- 
 nal. 
 
 I Page 
 
 56 
 
 59 
 61 
 
 62 
 
 75 
 77 
 
 94 
 95 
 
 97 
 
 107 
 
 no 
 
 112 
 
 "3 
 ^'5 
 
 116 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 Place. 
 
 To Hartford . . . 
 To Amherst . . , 
 To Worcester . 
 
 To Boston 
 
 Boston , 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 To New York . . 
 To Philadelphia 
 
 Philadelphia 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 To Baltimore . . 
 At Baltimore . . 
 
 To "NVashington 
 Washington . . . . 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 To Richmond . . 
 
 1 08 Richmond . 
 
 Ditto , 
 
 Ditto 
 
 To Halifax 
 
 South Washington 
 
 Wilmington 
 
 To Charleston .... 
 Charleston. ... . . . 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto , 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL 
 OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 1837. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 Dec 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 10 
 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 26, 12 p.m. 
 28 
 
 5 
 
 II, at sunrise 
 IS, 8 p. m. 
 18, 12 a.m. 
 
 29 . 
 
 30 . 
 1838. 
 
 Jan. I . 
 
 2 . 
 
 3 • 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 6 
 
 7 ■ 
 
 8 , 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 II 
 
 12 
 
 M 
 
 M 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 18, 
 
 '9 
 
 20, 
 
 21 . 
 
 22 . 
 
 8 a. 
 
 a. 
 
 1 p. 
 
 2 p. 
 
 6 a. 
 
 m. 
 m. 
 m. 
 m. 
 m. 
 
 m. 
 
 I p. m. 
 
 2.1 
 
 
 7P- 
 
 2 p. 
 
 m. 
 m. 
 
 Temper.] Solttr 
 of air. Radiat. 
 
 Therm. 
 Dry, 
 
 65 
 23 
 
 26 
 
 23 
 
 57 
 43 
 39 
 
 32 
 
 35 
 
 29 
 
 39 
 
 45 
 
 35 
 
 33 
 
 45 
 
 35 „ 
 25.8 
 
 18.5 
 
 23 
 60 
 
 32 
 60 
 
 55 
 
 70 
 
 43 
 40 
 
 36 
 
 32 
 
 45 
 
 Actino- 
 meter. 
 
 Si 
 
221 
 
 CAL 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 
 rs. 
 
 - 
 
 Ref 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 Pi 
 - ^ u 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 per. Solar 
 
 
 n to 
 
 
 
 
 ixr. 
 
 Radial 
 
 ■ 
 
 to 
 
 Jour 
 
 nal. 
 
 Place and 
 Latitude. 
 
 
 1838. 
 
 Temper atMn 
 humid, of air 
 
 . Rod 
 
 
 Actino- 
 
 
 nil 
 
 
 
 T. 
 
 meter. 
 
 
 Page 
 
 ii6 
 ii8 
 
 I20 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 Thermom. 
 
 Acti- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 il>ry. 
 
 Wet. 
 
 nom. 
 
 
 
 Charleston . . 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 
 Jan. 24, 7 a. m. 
 
 25 
 
 26, 8 a. m. 
 
 27, 7 a.m. 
 
 36 
 46 
 
 ^^ 
 01 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 ■~— 
 
 Ditto 
 
 
 28, 7 a. m. 
 
 ,S8 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 Ditto 
 
 
 r 7 a. m. 
 ^9' lat night 
 
 48 
 52 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 122 
 
 Ditto 
 
 
 30,. 7 a.m. 
 ^' 12 a.m. 
 
 48 
 
 62 
 
 
 
 > 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 Ditto 
 
 
 3I} 7 a.m. 
 
 S3 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 — 
 
 Ditto 
 
 
 Feb. I 
 
 41 
 42 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 Ditto 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Embarked for 
 Isle of Cuba 
 
 J48 
 
 r 7 a.m. 
 
 -^'t at night 
 ^* \ I p. m. 
 
 42 
 
 35 
 30 
 .=?7 
 
 3' 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 
 
 123 
 
 Lat. 30.2 .... 
 
 f 68 
 164/ 
 
 ^ ri2 a.m. 
 ^'1 8 p.m. 
 
 4S 
 
 42 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 28.10 .... 
 
 62 
 
 6, 12 a. m. 
 
 S3 
 
 45 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 27.30 
 
 64 
 
 • • 
 
 n 
 
 7, 12 p.m. 
 
 8, 8 a. m. 
 r 8 a. m. 
 
 ^'\ 2 p. m. 
 
 69 
 
 73 
 73 
 69 
 
 63 
 66 
 
 II 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 75 
 
 j^ f J 2 a. m. 
 
 ' \ sunset 
 
 68 
 72 
 
 60 
 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 24.44 
 
 23.28 
 
 76 
 76 
 
 IT, 12 a.m. 
 12, 12 a. m. 
 
 65 
 72 
 
 65 
 
 13 
 14 
 
 
 5i 
 
 
 
 127 
 
 Havanna 
 
 Ditto 
 
 76 
 
 , , r 1 2 a. m. 
 *3't 6 p.m. 
 14? 12 a. m. 
 
 81 
 82 
 82 
 
 7ii 
 
 18^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 Ditto 
 
 
 / sunrise 
 '5'\ 12 a.m. 
 
 77 
 84 
 
 70 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 Ditto 
 
 
 ,6 r sunrise 
 '\ 2 p. m. 
 
 78 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 84 
 
 72^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 __ 
 
 Ditto 
 
 
 J sunrise 
 ^^'\ night 
 
 78 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 72 
 
 68 
 
 »7 
 
 
 
 
 
 »3i 
 
 Matan/as 
 
 
 ,Q / sunrise 
 *^'l 2 p.m. 
 
 72 
 79 
 
 71 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ditto 
 
 
 ,^ / sunrise 
 ^9»ix2a.m. 
 
 65 
 81 
 
 71 
 
 .7 
 
 U3 
 
W- 
 
 I ^ 
 
 i:".-i»;/ 
 
 ■ , I"' 
 
 Ref. 
 to 
 Jour- 
 nal. 
 
 Page,! 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 Place, Latitude, and 
 Lonyitude. 
 
 222 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 »32 
 
 Canamar 
 Ditto . . . 
 
 Ditto 
 
 1838. 
 
 Temperat. and 
 humid, of air. 
 
 Thermom. 
 Dry. I Wet. 
 
 Feb. 20,/ ^""^''se 
 
 ^34 
 ^35 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Matanzas 
 Havanna 
 Ditto 
 
 21 
 
 22, 
 
 23 
 
 f su 
 li?- 
 
 r sun 
 24, ■< 12 a, 
 
 Ditto , 
 
 T36 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 ^37 
 
 Gulf of Mexico ) 
 
 24.23 84.30 J" 
 Ditto 26.33 86.47 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Bar of the .'\Iississippi 
 New Orleans 
 
 21;. < 
 
 2 6,' 
 
 27»< 
 
 2 a. m. 
 
 sunrise 
 
 m. 
 
 «2 a. -a. 
 sunset 
 sunrise 
 12 a. m. 
 sunset 
 sunrise 
 m. 
 sunset 
 sunrise 
 
 1 p. m. 
 sunset 
 sunrise 
 I p. m. 
 sunset 
 sunrise 
 12 a. m. 
 
 sunset 
 se 
 m. 
 
 sunrise 
 
 2 a. m. 
 
 28,/ **"""■« 
 ' ( 1 2 a. n 
 
 Mch. I J 
 
 j sunrise 
 
 ' [ 1 2 a. ra. 
 
 ^ f 12 a. 
 
 Ditto . 
 
 141 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Steamer to Attakapas 
 To Placquemine .... 
 
 4, 
 
 6 
 
 6,^ 
 
 m. 
 
 m. 
 12 a. m. 
 
 sunrise 
 
 1 p.m. 
 night 
 
 sunrise 
 
 2 a. m. 
 
 I 
 
 o f 1 2 a. m. 
 ^'\ night 
 r 12 a. m. 
 ^'t night 
 
 64 
 81 
 
 63 
 
 85 
 70 
 
 66 
 
 56 
 
 7' 
 66 
 
 S6 
 70 
 
 67 
 60 
 
 79 
 
 l'J> 
 
 80 
 69 
 68 
 
 77 
 68 
 68 
 
 75 
 68 
 
 7^ 
 
 72 
 
 74i 
 74^ 
 56 
 56 
 
 54 
 
 58 
 60 
 
 63 
 
 45 
 54 
 54 
 
 57 
 
 69^ 
 
 67 
 
 69 
 
 63i 
 
 Solar 
 Rad 
 
 Acti- 
 nom. 
 
 80^ 
 
 65^ 
 
 64^ 
 
 62^ 
 
 60^ 
 
 70 
 70^ 
 
 56 
 
 54 
 44i 
 
 II 
 ^3 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 '3 
 
 '3 
 
ERVATIONS. 
 
 erat. am 
 i. of air 
 
 i Solar 
 . Rad. 
 
 rmom. 
 1 Wet. 
 
 Acti- 
 nom. 
 
 69^ 
 
 
 67 
 
 20^ 
 
 69 
 
 
 63^ 
 
 
 63i 
 
 II 
 
 • • 
 
 ^3 
 
 65^ 
 
 13 
 
 64^ 
 
 13 
 
 62^ 
 
 12 
 
 60^ 
 
 14 
 
 70 
 70* 
 
 '3 
 
 56 
 
 54 
 44i 
 
 '3 
 
 Ref. 
 
 to 
 
 Jour. 
 
 nal. 
 
 Page. 
 
 ITINEUARY. 
 
 T42 
 
 143 
 
 Place. 
 
 At Placquemine 
 
 In an open boat 1 
 to Attakapas j 
 Reached ditto 
 
 223 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS, 
 
 1838. 
 
 Ditto 
 Ditto . 
 Ditto . 
 Ditto. 
 
 — Ditto . 
 
 — Ditto. 
 
 146 
 
 Ditto . 
 Ditto. 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Steamer to N. \ 
 Orleans .. j 
 
 Ditto 
 
 HI 
 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto . 
 
 New Orleans. . 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 "3 
 12. 
 
 Mch.io,"! 
 
 '{ 
 
 hA 
 
 iS.{ 
 i6,| 
 
 ■>•{ 
 
 i8,| 
 
 "{ 
 
 i9> 
 20, 
 
 21. 
 
 22, 
 
 23, 
 24, 
 
 25; 
 
 
 26j« 
 
 27 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 p. m. 
 night 
 
 sunrise 
 
 2 p. m. 
 1 2 p. m. 
 sunrise 
 
 night 
 
 sunrise 
 
 12 a.m. 
 
 night 
 
 sunrise 
 
 12 a.m. 
 
 simrise 
 
 I p.m. 
 
 10 p.m. 
 sunrise 
 
 1 1 a. m. 
 10 p. m. 
 sunsise 
 
 12 a. m. 
 
 lop. m. 
 sunrise 
 2 p. m. 
 
 sunrise 
 10 p. m. 
 
 sunrise 
 12 a. m. 
 10 p.m. 
 sunrise 
 12 a. m. 
 sunrise 
 12 a. m. 
 lop. m. 
 sunrise 
 1 2 a. m. 
 sunrise 
 sunrise 
 12 a. m. 
 
 night 
 sunrise 
 12 a. m. 
 
 night 
 
 Temperat.and 
 humid, of air 
 
 Theimom. 
 Dry. Wet. 
 
 57 
 55 
 56 
 60 
 
 67 
 64 
 61 
 
 54 
 
 58 
 62 
 
 56 
 64^ 
 54 
 62 
 
 55 
 48 
 
 55 
 49 
 
 60 
 
 47 
 
 42 
 
 70 
 47 
 
 57 
 55 
 77 
 6.5 
 5^ 
 
 56 
 76 
 68 
 
 56 
 
 68 
 
 63 
 69 
 
 75 
 64 
 ^1 
 75 
 63 
 
 57 
 56 
 
 47^ 
 
 56 
 
 52 
 
 45 
 
 47 
 
 55 
 
 66 
 
 65 
 65 
 
 58 
 
 67 
 
 64 
 
 Solar 
 Rad. 
 
 Actl- 
 nom. 
 
 II 
 
 10 
 
 H 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
224 
 
 ■« 
 
 ' 
 
 ■ 
 
 ■ i; 
 
 ■ 
 
 1^ 
 
 Ref. 
 to 
 Jour- 
 nal. 
 
 Page. 
 
 148 
 
 151 
 
 152 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 Place. 
 
 Steamer to 
 Little Rock 
 
 } 
 
 — Ditto. 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 1838. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Reached the 1 
 mouth of the > 
 riv. Arkansas | 
 
 Up the river 
 Arkansas 
 
 ;"} 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Ditto . 
 
 Ditto . 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Reached Lit' 
 tie Rock 
 
 !-} 
 
 At Little Rock 
 
 
 Mch. 28 
 
 29, 
 
 { 
 
 sunrise 
 
 12 a. m. 
 
 night 
 
 30 J 
 
 April 
 
 sunrise 
 12 a.m. 
 night 
 C morning 
 31, < 12 a. m. 
 l night 
 sunrise 
 2 p. m. 
 sunset 
 
 !,'< 
 
 Temper at. and 
 humid, of air 
 
 Thermom. 
 Dry. Wet. 
 
 J' 
 
 sunrise 
 2 p.m. 
 
 sunrise 
 2 p. m. 
 sunset 
 sunrise 
 2 p.m. 
 sunset 
 sunrise 
 2 p.m. 
 4 p.m. 
 sunset 
 sunrise 
 2 p. m. 
 sunset 
 suni'ise 
 2 p. ni. 
 sunset 
 sunrise 
 
 1 p.m. 
 sunset 
 
 2 p.m. 
 r sunrise 
 
 !0, -j 2 p. iii. 
 
 1, sunset 
 
 4,' 
 
 7,' 
 
 8,. 
 9, 
 
 52 
 72 
 60 
 
 51 
 70 
 81 
 61 
 SO 
 
 7.5 
 68 
 
 56 
 
 7oi 
 
 62 
 
 5.S 
 74 
 60 
 
 SI 
 66 
 
 46 
 
 66 
 
 S6 
 
 46 
 
 7.3i 
 62 
 
 56 
 
 70 
 
 62 
 
 61 
 
 58 
 
 70 
 
 64 
 
 60 
 
 68^ 
 
 62 
 
 54 
 
 69i 
 61 
 
 79 
 46 
 
 62 
 60 
 
 66 
 63 
 
 64 
 
 S3 
 53 
 
 55 
 
 65 
 
 58 
 
 54 
 56 
 
 "3 
 
 Solar 
 Rod. 
 
 Actl- 
 nom. 
 
 Hi 
 
 i3i 
 
 II 
 
 ir^ 
 
 12 
 9 
 
 I h 
 
225 
 
 Solar 
 Rod. 
 
 ActU 
 nom. 
 
 I2i 
 
 "^ 
 
 i3i 
 
 II 
 
 ir^ 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 Ref. 
 
 I ZNERARY. 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 
 
 Temperat. and 
 
 5o/ar 
 
 Jour- 
 nal. 
 
 Place. 
 
 1838. 
 
 humid, of (dr. 
 
 iiarf. 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 Thermom. 
 
 Actl. 
 
 Page. 
 153 
 
 
 
 Dry, 
 
 Wet. 
 42 
 
 nom. 
 
 To Washita ) 
 Springs . . j 
 
 r sunrise 
 
 ApriliT,-< 2 p.m. 
 
 (_ 10 p.m. 
 
 46 
 hi 
 
 
 
 r sunrise 
 
 34 
 
 
 
 
 Ditto 
 
 12, .^ 2 p.m. 
 (. 8 p.m. 
 r sunrise 
 
 65 
 
 50 
 
 54 
 
 47 
 
 9 
 
 — 
 
 Ditto 
 
 I3»< 2 p.m. 
 (. 8 p.m. 
 
 76 
 58 
 
 62 
 
 9 
 
 — 
 
 Started for ) 
 Little Rock ] 
 
 C sunrise 
 
 Mj< 2 p.m. 
 
 (, sunset 
 
 C sunrise 
 
 54 
 83 
 71 
 65 
 
 H 
 
 IS 
 
 — 
 
 Ditto 
 
 15,^ 2 p.m. 
 (. 8 p.m. 
 
 83 
 
 74 
 
 64 
 
 12 
 
 156 
 
 Reached Little ) 
 Rock . . . . / 
 
 C sunrise 
 
 i6,< 2 p.m. 
 
 (^ sunset 
 
 r sunrise 
 
 67 
 
 78 
 67 
 
 66 
 
 
 I.S7 
 
 At Little Rock 
 
 17X 2 p.m. 
 (. sunset 
 
 59^ 
 
 57 
 
 52 
 
 
 159 
 
 To Kellog's . . 
 
 18,-! '"""'« 
 ' \ sunset 
 
 r sunrise 
 
 45 
 57 
 36 
 
 
 
 160 
 
 To Walker's. . 
 
 I9,< aftern. 
 
 L 8 p.m. 
 
 [ sunrise 
 20, < 2 p. m. 
 
 62 
 
 44 
 36 
 
 46 
 
 
 '63 
 
 To Magnus' . . 
 
 77 
 
 57 
 
 
 
 
 1 sunset 
 
 52 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 sunrise 
 
 46 
 
 
 
 164 
 
 To Pates' .... 
 
 21,. 
 ( 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 sunset 
 
 ' sunrise 
 
 84 
 68 
 
 47 
 
 64 
 
 
 166 
 
 To Batesville. . 
 
 22,^ 2 p.m. 
 (_ sunset 
 
 84 
 63 
 
 63 
 
 
 
 Camped out ] 
 14 mis. from i- 
 Batesville. . 
 
 2a J ^P-*"- 
 * ' L sunset 
 
 8r^ 
 67 
 
 63^ 
 63 
 
 
 
 
 r sunrise 
 
 66 
 
 
 
 167 
 
 Smithville .... 
 
 24,-^ 2 p. m. 
 
 8.^i 
 
 66i 
 
 
 .... 
 
 
 (. sunset 
 
 69 
 
 
 
226 
 
 mi 
 
 (■ 
 
 • i 
 
 , 
 
 i, 
 
 r ' , ' * 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL 
 
 
 OBSERVATIOKS. 
 
 to 
 Jou] 
 
 
 Temperat. and 
 
 nal 
 Pagt 
 
 Piaoe. 
 
 1838. 
 
 humid, of air. 
 
 Thermom. 
 
 1 68 
 
 
 
 Dry. 
 
 Wet. 
 
 Mr. BJack's . . 
 
 r sunrise 
 ^5»t 2p.m 
 
 56 
 
 
 
 
 75 
 
 62^ 
 
 — 
 
 — Jarrett's . . 
 
 2g /sunrise 
 'I 2p.m. 
 
 " [ sunset 
 
 54 
 
 X 
 
 169 
 
 — Branham's 
 
 78 
 84 
 79 
 
 59^ 
 64 
 
 170 
 
 — Bulner's . . 
 
 28,/ "P-™- 
 L sunset 
 
 75 
 
 56 
 
 
 
 59 
 
 
 — 
 
 Greenville 
 
 r sunrise 
 ^' L sunset 
 
 47 
 
 
 
 
 67 
 
 56 
 
 171 
 
 3Iiller's 
 
 1 sunrise 
 30A 2 p.m. 
 
 41 
 
 72 
 
 54 
 
 
 
 ( sunset 
 
 53 
 
 rain 
 
 — 
 
 Brown's .... 
 
 r sunrise 
 Mayi,-^ 2 p.m. 
 . sunset 
 
 57 
 62^ 
 
 58 
 
 60 
 
 '7.^ 
 
 Caledonia .... 
 
 sunrise 
 
 2/ 2 p.m. 
 
 . sunset 
 
 65 
 71 
 
 64 
 
 
 
 61 
 
 
 '74 
 
 Roger's 
 
 C sunrise 
 
 3») 2 p.m. 
 
 (. sunset 
 
 55 
 49 
 
 rain 
 
 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 Selma 
 
 r sunrise 
 
 45 
 
 
 
 
 4j "^ 2 p. m. 
 
 49 
 
 42 
 
 
 
 I at night 
 
 46 
 
 
 
 
 Ditto 
 
 r sunrise 
 
 47 
 
 
 
 
 5j i 2 p. m. 
 
 62 
 
 51 
 
 
 
 . at night 
 
 54 
 
 ^ 
 
 176 
 
 Prairie dii Pan. 
 
 r sunrise 
 O,-] 2 p.m. 
 
 41 
 62 
 
 51 
 
 
 
 t- 
 
 L sunset 
 
 43 
 
 \j 
 
 177 
 
 St. Louis .... 
 
 7,' 
 
 r sunrise 
 2 p.m. 
 . sunset 
 
 46 
 
 58 
 
 55 
 
 47 
 
 — 
 
 Ditto 
 
 8,. 
 
 ' sunrise 
 2 p.m. 
 sunset 
 
 43 
 62 
 
 55 
 
 48 
 
 — ] 
 
 Ditto 
 
 9." 
 
 sunrise 
 2 p.m. 
 
 47 
 63 
 
 SI 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 sunset 
 
 53 
 
 
227 
 
 Ref. 
 
 to 
 
 Jour> 
 
 nal. 
 
 Page. 
 
 ITINEHARV. 
 
 Place. 
 
 1 80 Steamer. 
 
 181 
 
 182 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 LouisWUe . . . . 
 
 — Ditto 
 
 '83 
 
 184 
 
 ShelbyviUe.... 
 Lexington 
 
 Ditto 
 
 186 Maysville ... 
 
 187 Cincinnati. . . . 
 
 190 
 
 193 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 194 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Steamer 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Pittsburgh . . 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL 
 OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 1838. 
 
 May 10, 
 
 II, "^ 
 
 12, ■< 
 
 sunnse 
 2 p.m. 
 sunset 
 sunrise 
 2 p.m. 
 sunset 
 morning 
 2 p.m. 
 sunset 
 sunrise 
 13, -j 2 p.m. 
 L nig^t 
 sunrise 
 2 p. m. 
 night 
 2 p.m. 
 night 
 7 a.m. 
 2 p.m. 
 
 Temperat, and 
 humid, of air. 
 
 Thermom. 
 Dry. I Wet. 
 
 45 
 61 
 
 48 
 
 42 
 
 57 
 
 5' 
 
 45 
 
 65 
 
 50 
 
 51 
 66 
 
 51 
 62 
 
 17 
 64 
 
 79 
 68 
 
 68 
 
 24, 
 
 25: 
 
 26, 
 
 27j 
 
 28, 
 
 29, 
 
 2 p.m. 
 night 
 sunrise 
 2 p. m. 
 night 
 sunrise 
 2 p.m. 
 night 
 sunrise 
 2 p.m. 
 night 
 sunrise 
 2 p.m. 
 night 
 sunrise 
 2 p.m. 
 night 
 sunrise 
 
 I night 
 
 57 
 49 
 49 
 59 
 
 46 
 
 73 
 
 58 
 
 54 
 68 
 
 58 
 
 63 
 
 54 
 46 
 
 64 
 
 51 
 
 57 
 
 47 
 46 
 
 54 
 56 
 65 
 
 48 
 
 49 
 
 57 
 
 56 
 
 SI 
 
 52 
 
 59 
 
228 
 
 f-k 
 
 III 
 
 f'i 
 
 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL 
 
 
 ITINERAEY. 
 
 
 
 Ref. 
 
 ' to 
 
 
 OBaEHVATIOKS. 
 
 
 
 Tempernt. and 
 
 Jour- 
 
 ' 
 
 
 humid, of air. 
 
 nal. 
 
 Place. 
 
 1838. 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Therm cm. 
 
 Page. 
 
 
 Dry. 
 62 
 
 Wet. 
 
 
 
 ( sunrise 
 
 194 
 
 Pittsburgh . . 
 
 May3ij-< 2 p.m. 
 1 night 
 t sunrise 
 
 77 
 64 
 
 63 
 
 19s 
 
 Canal boat. . . . 
 
 June i,\ 2 p.m. 
 ( night 
 
 63 
 
 62 
 
 196 
 
 Summit of the 1 
 Alleghanies J 
 
 1 2 p.m. 
 ^'( night 
 
 67 
 
 53 
 
 
 57 
 
 
 
 
 I sunrise 
 
 54 
 
 
 197 
 
 Canal boat 
 
 3,-j 2 p.m. 
 I night 
 ( sunrise 
 
 82 
 64 
 65 
 
 ?>i 
 
 — 
 
 Ditto 
 
 4.-5 2 p.m. 
 I night 
 
 72 
 ^7 
 
 62 
 
 198 
 
 Reached Phi- " 
 ladelphia . . " 
 
 C sunrise 
 5,< 2 p.m. 
 (. night 
 f sunrise 
 
 65 
 72 
 67 
 68 
 
 62 
 
 ^— 
 
 At Philadelphia 
 
 6,< 2 p. m. 
 ( night 
 C sunrise 
 
 69 
 68 
 70 
 
 68 
 
 "" 
 
 Ditto" 
 
 7,< 2 p. m. 
 
 ( night 
 r sunrise 
 
 73 
 67 
 
 72 
 
 56 
 
 
 Ditto 
 
 8,< 2 p.m. 
 L night 
 
 83 
 78 
 
 65 
 
 
 
 
 1 sunrise 
 
 73 
 
 
 199 
 
 To Washington 
 
 9,' 
 
 2 p.m. 
 night 
 
 84 
 
 73 
 
 
 
 
 82 
 
 
 
 
 
 sunrise 
 
 69 
 
 
 
 Washington . . 
 
 '- 10,' 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 night 
 
 sunrise 
 
 86 
 
 78 
 72 
 
 62 
 
 -— 
 
 Ditto 
 
 II,' 
 
 2 p.m. 
 night 
 
 88 
 84 
 
 75 
 
 200 
 
 To Charlottes- ] 
 
 
 ■ 2 h. bef. 
 
 84^ 
 89^ 
 
 
 
 villein Virgi- - 
 nia J 
 
 12,. 
 
 sunrise 
 2 p.m. 
 
 73 
 
 
 
 night 
 
 73 
 
 
 201 
 
 Tn thfi Rlnfll 
 
 
 ' sunrise 
 
 74 
 
 
 
 — — 
 
 Ridge .... J 
 
 I3j' 
 
 2 p. m. 
 night 
 
 91 
 
 84 
 
 73 
 
d29 
 
 63 
 
 62 
 
 53 
 
 S3 
 62 
 
 62 
 
 68 
 56 
 6S 
 73 
 62 
 
 75 
 
 73 
 73 
 
 D»# 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL 
 OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Kef. 
 to 
 
 
 I 
 
 Temperat.iind 
 
 Jour- 
 
 
 
 humid, of air. 
 
 nal. 
 
 Place. 
 
 1838. 
 
 
 Page. 
 
 
 Ther 
 Dry. 
 
 mum. 
 Wet. 
 
 202 
 
 To Weyer's "1 
 Cave / 
 
 June i4,-< 
 
 sunrise 
 2 p.m. 
 
 65 
 
 72 
 
 
 
 night 
 
 66 
 
 
 
 
 
 sunrise 
 
 66 
 
 
 — 
 
 Staunton .... 
 
 iS,^ 
 
 2 p. m. 
 
 82 
 
 67 
 
 203 
 
 Lexington and" 
 
 
 night 
 sunrise 
 
 67 
 66 
 
 
 
 the Natural • 
 
 16,^ 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 86 
 
 73 
 
 
 Bridge ..... 
 
 
 night 
 
 72 
 
 
 
 
 sunrise 
 
 66 
 
 
 204 
 
 Back to liBx. ■ 
 ington .... ' 
 
 i7>- 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 «3 
 
 73 
 
 
 
 night 
 
 73 
 
 
 
 
 
 sunrise 
 
 65 
 
 
 
 Lexington. . . . 
 
 18,. 
 
 4p.m. 
 night 
 
 7« 
 64 
 
 63 
 
 205 
 
 White Sul. 1 
 phur Spring j 
 
 
 sunrise 
 
 64 
 
 
 
 19,, 
 
 2 p.m. 
 night 
 
 77 
 69 
 
 68 
 
 
 
 
 sunrise 
 
 63 
 
 
 ^■~" 
 
 Ditto 
 
 20,- 
 
 2 p.m. 
 night 
 
 76 
 66 
 
 64 
 
 206 
 
 Hot Springs . . 
 
 21,. 
 
 2 p. m. 
 
 night 
 sunrise 
 
 76 
 66 
 64 
 
 64 
 
 
 Ditto 
 
 22,. 
 
 2 p.m. 
 night 
 " sunrise 
 
 72 
 70 
 62 
 
 
 
 Ditto 
 
 23,- 
 
 2 p. m. 
 
 night 
 
 sunrise 
 
 78 
 68 
 
 6; 
 
 72 
 
 ^^ 
 
 Ditto 
 
 24,- 
 
 2 p. m. 
 night 
 
 78 
 69 
 
 72 
 
 208 
 
 Cow Pasture l 
 Valley .... f 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 sunrise 
 1 2 a. m. 
 
 59 
 
 78 
 
 
 209 
 
 Warm Springs 
 
 26 
 
 i 
 
 
 — 
 
 Holidaysburgh 
 
 27 
 
 
 
 210 
 
 Winchester . . 
 
 28 
 
 
 
 2tl 
 
 Harper's Ferry 
 
 29, 2 p. m. 
 
 85 
 
 
 212 
 
 Baltimore .... 
 
 '<0. SUIlSPt 
 
 
 
 — Philadelphia., July i 
 
 * 1,' 
 
 
230 
 
 I 
 
 Ref. 
 to 
 Jour- 
 nal. 
 
 I Page. 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 Place, Latitude^ and 
 Longitude. 
 
 212 
 
 213 
 
 7,14 
 
 Philadelphia 
 
 New York 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Embarked for London 
 
 Lat. 40. Long. 70.* 
 40.32 65.40 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 42.18 54.5 
 
 1838. 
 
 Temperat.and 'Solar 
 humid, of air. \Rad 
 
 
 siinr'se 
 July 2, ■< 2 p. m. 
 [_ night 
 r sunrise 
 \ 2 p.m. 
 sunrise 
 4,1 2 p.m. 
 night 
 '" sunrise 
 2 p. m. 
 night 
 sunrise 
 2 p.m. 
 night 
 sunrise 
 2 p. m. 
 night 
 
 {sunnse 
 2 p.m. 
 night 
 C sunrise 
 9,- 2 p.m. 
 night 
 ' sunrise 
 lOj- 2 p.m. 
 night 
 sunrise 
 ii,-< 2 p.m. 
 [ night 
 \. J sunrise 
 '1 2 p.m. 
 r sunrise 
 13, •{ 2 p.m. 
 night 
 
 14,- 
 
 n,< 
 
 sunrise 
 2 p. m. 
 night 
 '' sunrise 
 2 p.m. 
 night 
 
 Tliermom. 
 
 Acti 
 
 Dry. Wet. 
 
 nom 
 
 79 
 
 
 
 82 
 
 76 
 
 
 75 
 
 
 
 75 
 
 
 
 87 
 
 80 
 
 
 78 
 
 
 
 85 
 
 76 
 
 
 7« 
 
 
 
 79 
 
 
 
 88 
 
 76 
 
 •4 
 
 80 
 
 
 
 67 
 
 
 
 82 
 
 72 
 
 16 
 
 78 
 
 
 
 68 
 
 
 
 85 
 
 72 
 
 
 80 
 
 
 
 80 
 
 
 
 84 
 
 73 
 
 18 
 
 80 
 
 
 
 79 
 
 
 
 «5 
 
 74 
 
 19 
 
 8.S 
 
 
 
 82 
 
 
 
 85 
 
 75 
 
 16 
 
 74 
 
 
 
 74 
 
 
 
 74 
 
 69 
 
 14 
 
 67 
 
 
 
 68 
 
 
 
 73 
 
 68 
 
 
 68 
 
 
 
 72 
 
 
 
 71 
 
 
 
 74 
 
 
 
 65 
 
 
 
 59 
 
 
 
 60 
 
 
 
 66 
 
 58 
 
 
 63 1 
 
 
 
 * Taken e;»h day at about li a.m. 
 
 ill- ' (•• 
 
231 
 
 RVATIONS. 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL 
 
 j 
 
 
 Ref. 
 
 
 OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 at.and iSolai 
 
 
 
 
 of air. Rad. 
 
 
 to 
 
 
 
 Temperat. and 
 
 1 . 
 
 
 Jour- 
 nal. 
 
 Place, Latitude^ and 
 Longitude. 
 
 1838. 
 
 humid, of air. 
 
 mom. 
 Wet. 
 
 Acti- 
 nom. 
 
 
 Page 
 
 Thermom. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Dry. 
 
 Wet. 
 
 76 
 
 
 
 
 r sunrise 
 
 63 
 
 
 
 
 214 
 
 Lat. 43.6 Long. 51.0 
 
 July 16, 
 
 •< 2 p. m. 
 
 59 
 
 57 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 L night 
 
 61 
 
 
 80 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 " sunrise 
 
 68 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 44.2 46.3 
 
 i7> 
 
 ■ 2 p. m. 
 
 65 
 
 
 76 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 night 
 
 64 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 f sunrise 
 
 63 
 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 44.23 43.4 
 
 18, -j 2 p.m. 
 [ night 
 r sunrise 
 
 65 
 
 
 76 
 
 •4 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 65 
 65 
 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 4546 39-35 
 
 19, "j 2 p.m. 
 
 67 
 
 65 
 
 72 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 
 L night 
 r sunrise 
 20, \ 2 p. m. 
 
 66 
 65 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 46.11 34.45 
 
 67 
 
 66 
 
 72 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . night 
 sunrise 
 
 64 
 65 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 46.54 30.8 
 
 21,' 
 
 2 p. m. 
 
 67 
 
 65 
 
 n 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 night 
 sunrise 
 
 63 
 62 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 48.11 26.9 
 
 22,. 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 63 
 
 61 
 
 74 
 
 19 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 night 
 suni'ise 
 
 62 
 61 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 49.15 22.27 
 
 23," 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 62 
 
 61 
 
 75 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 night 
 
 59i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 sunrise 
 
 62 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 49.18 18.28 
 
 24,. 
 
 2 p. m. 
 
 62 
 
 61 
 
 69 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 
 night 
 ' sunrise 
 
 59i 
 62 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 49-7 14-53 
 
 25,- 
 
 2 p. m. 1 
 
 62 
 
 62 
 
 68 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 night 
 ' sunrise 
 
 t' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 49.12 10.46 
 
 26,- 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 night 
 
 sunrise 
 
 62 
 
 62 
 
 56 
 
 
 
 
 
 "■" 
 
 Opposite the Lizard. . 
 
 27r 
 
 2 p. m. 
 night 
 
 62 
 58 
 
 S8 
 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 Arrived at Portsmouth 
 
 28 
 
 
 
 58