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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour etre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film6 d partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche de gauche ^ droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n6cessaire Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ■/s>n:03„i.)ii,> JJ\H^\7i.:lO A 4i. K .(i>H>t>mit ilei.' ■V .-.I V i. V r 1 1 t i! A GENERAL COLLECTION BEST AND MOST INTERESTI!^ X/% ** V.V \ VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, IN ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD ; ^ MANY OF WHICH ARE NOW FIRST TRANSLATED INTO ENGLISH. ■.^*'^- W: i)lGESTED ON A NliW PLAN. ■f ^.)^'- ■ '^0^- -^v. i^ JOHN ^INKERTON, \ AUTHOR or M0DERI9 OEOQRAPHYf.&Ci dlteasaa*)* >-u' ■«K J'.-.* ^' ttXVSTBATED AND AD(»lSBD VWH NtfMBBOUS ENGHAMNftS. ■^'*^"4 ' ' ■ volume'pirst. ■ X'S^'' ::»*-... %.. '*-:iS^:'~.'ii.- PUlLADELPHIAt •W PUBLISHED BY KIMBER AND CONRAp, NO. 93, MARKET STREEt, William Falconer, New York* 8amuey«fferi8, Baitim0i*:i Jwiies Kennedy,'seri. Alexandria; FitzwUylsoni' and Potter, Richmond ; John Hoff, ^^leston, Soutiti Carolina; Henry dishing, Providence, R. I. ; Jnliii West and Co. Boston ; Cushing and Appleton, Salem ; Edward Little and Co. Ncwbuiyport ; Ciiiti le^ BROWN & MERltlTT, PRINTERS; Tappan, Portsmouth. 1810, ■ * \ Vlf-^^VUhr '. .1, .1 "V A.. ■'Vi- », ■, '.v'^ *■ ■uv-n^ .vT , ■■-.'?",!»'■■■ \V:.:4: I r -n^ , '(SKi^'rt!^'' ij *-€% >liW v^^ • f ••• ^4 ^' i^a*^ I'll <* ■% N„M*^,» -.>v»,m. w's^is- ^"sB^** «^*ji^ 'iP ;s-;'1- * r- '»\^v;^'«^' M' ;'^*'--"'i::%''C ^ 1 « i 'I .^1 ■ t I .^4^ If I* ■ ■)'•" •\;5-'-r.S'f •;. ..^.;r^'-^\ „1> a^;!^ ■^:^: .>.%^: ..5i5' ,.; t ■ ■■' :■:;_■■':■>.■■■ ».Su», Jto*lii«i 'i4*^l^tral'*t'.>lWmr -i 'Cy CONTENTS OF VOL rt*. -.4, *'!• The Voyages of Sir Hugh Willoughhy and others to the Northern Parts of Russia and Siberia^ First Voyage of the Dutch to the North qf Europe, Second Voyage of the same, .... Third Vouage qf the same ^ ••*',, n Dissertation qfJohn Isaac Pontanus concerning the North-east Passage, Regnard's Journey to Lapland, fi'c. • • • • Journey qfMaupertuis to the Polar Circle, Outhier's Journal qfa Voyage to the. North, Travels qfM. Arwidkkninmalminto fVestcm Nordland, Uc. Account qf Danish Lapland, by Leems, .... Allison's Voyage from Archangel, A new Account qf Samoiedia and the Samoiedes, Journal qfseven seamen ^fi at Spitsbergen, Account qf Forty-two Persons shiprvreeked near Spitsbergen, Phipp'sJoutaalofa Voyage to the North Pole, . • , Q^„h^„^ -«MaL^' AUG 13 1890 ::J^i« JLI^ -/ ; • • A GENERAL COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS- THE VOYAGES OF SIR HUGH WILLOUGHBY, RICHARD CHANCELOR, AND OTHERSi TO THE NORTHERN PARTS OF RUSSIA AND SIBERIA. ^ (iTROH HAKLinrra couJtcnoN, vol. u p. ••••) T, HESE interesting Voyages are introduced with a genealogy of the dukes of Mos. covy, which being extraneous to the subject, and often erroneous, shall be here omitted. But the instructions of Sebastian Cabot deserve preserv^ation on account of their curi. osity, and the celebrity of the author, not to mention that the first English voyage of discovery deserves to be detailed with all its circumstances ; and in a plan of this extent, the Gothic building may sometimes form an agreeable variety amidst modern edifices. Ordinances, instructions., and advertisements of and for the direction qfthe intended voy- age for Catliay, compiled, made, and delivered by the right worshi/i/ul M. Sebastian Cabota, ^squire, governor of the mystery and company qf the merchants adventurers for the discovery of regions, dominions, islands, and places unknown, the 9th day qf May, in the year of our Lord God 1553, and in the 1th year of the reign of our most dread sovereign lord, Edward the Sixth, by the grace of God, king of England, France, and Ireland, defetder qfthe faith, and qf the church of England and Ire- land, in earth supreme head, , -;. First, Th( captain-general, with the pilot-major, the masters, merchants, and other officers, to be so knit and accorded in unity, love, conformity, and obedience, in every degree on all sides, that no dissention, variance or contention, may rise or spring betwixt them and the mariners of this company, to the damage or hindrance of the voyage ; for that dissention, by many experiences, hath overthrown many notable intended and likely enterprises and exploits. " ^' »>• 2. Item, for as much as every p^ifson hath given an o^th to be true, faithful, and loyal subjects and liegemen to the king's most excellent majesty, his heirs and suc- ces^rs, and for the observation of all laws and statutes made for the preservation of his ' most excellent majes^, and his crown imperu^ of lus realms of England and Ireland, VOL. I, , % -»». •»•' ■# m V ■>': VOYAGES or SIR iiifiii wiu.oif.rtnv and otkek^. \i. and to scn'C his grucc, the rcnim, and this present voyage, truly, and not to f^ivc up, In- termit, or leave ofl'thc same voyaj^e and entcq)rise until it shall Ix: accomplishul, so far forth as |iossibility and life of man may serve or extend : therefore it behoveth every person, in his degree, as well for eonseience as for duty's sake, to rememlxT his said charge, and the accomplishment thereof. 3. Item, where furtnermore, ever)' mariner or passenger in his ship hath given like oath to Ik' ol)edicnt to the captain-f^encral, and to every captain and master in his ship, for the obst;rvation of these present orders contained in this book, and all other which hereafter shall Ix- made by the twelve counsellors in this present book named, or the most nart of them, for the better conduction and preservati'tn of the fleci, and achiev- ing ot the voyage, and to be prompt, ready, and obedient in all acts and feats of ho- nesty, reason, aj»d duty, to be nuiiistered, shewed, and executed, in advancement and preferment of the voyage and exploit : therefore it is convenient that this present lK)ok shall once every >Aeek, by the discretion of the captain, Ix; read to the said company, to the intent, that every man may the better remember his outh, conscience, duty, and ehargi. 4. Item, every person, by virtue of his oath, to do efiectually, and with gootl will (as far forth as him shall comply) all and every such act and acts, deed and deeds, as shall i)c to him or them from time lo lime commanded, committed, and enjoined (during the voyage) by the captain- g-eneral, with the iissentof the counsel and assistants, as well in and dining the whole navigation and voyage, as also in discovering and landing, as cases and occasions shall recjuire. 5. Item, all courses in navigation to be set and kept, by the atlviec of the captain, pilot-major, masters, and masters' mates, with the assents of the counsellors, and the most number of them, and in voices uniformly agreeing in one, to prevail, and take place, so that the captain- genera I shall in all counsels ami assemblies have a double voice. 6. Item, Uiat the Beet shall keep together, and not separate themselves asunder, as much as by wind and weather may be done or permitted, and tliat the captains, pilots, and masters, shall speedily come aboard the admiral, when, and as often, a* he shall seem to have just cause to assemble them for counsel or consultation to be had, concerning the affaira of the fleet and voyage. 7. Item, that the mercliants, and other skilful persons in writing, shall dmly write, describe, and put in memory, the navigation of eveiy day and night, with the points, and observation of the lands, tides, elements, altitude of the sun, course of the moon iuad stars, and the same so noted, by the order of the master and pilot of every ship, to be put in writing, the captain-general assembling the masters together once every week (if wind and weather sliall serve) to confer all the observations and notes of the said ships, to the intent it may appear wherein die notes do agree, and wherein they dissent, and upon good debatement, deliberation, and conclusion determined, to put the same into a common ledger, to remain of record for the company : the like order to be kept in proportioning of the cards, astrohbes, and other instruments, prepared for the voyage at the choi^ of the company. 8. Item, that all enterprises and exploits of discovering or landing to search isles, regions, and such like, to be searched, attempted, and enterpriscd, hy good deliberation, and common assent, determined advisedly. And that in all enterprises, notable ambas- sages, suits, requests, or presentment of ^fts or presents to pnnces, to be done and executed by the captun-general in person, or by such other as he by conuaon assent shall appoint or assign to do, or cause to be done, in the same. v,— r- 'rt'j I - ^-acy in- TO Tiir, NtmrnrisN rvxur.t nv ulh.htv \m) sinruiv 3 9. Item, the irtcwanl arui cook of every fihip, and their associates, to \^vc and render to the captain and other head officers ol their ship weekly (or oltener if it shall seem rcquiHitc) tt just or plain and perfect accompt of expcjiccs of the vietuuN, as well Hesh, fish, biscuit, meat, or bread, aa also of beer, wine, ill, cr -inejrar, and all other kind of victualling under their charj^e, and they, and every of ilvjui, so to order and disiKud the same, that no waste or unprofitable excess Ix.* made otherwise than reason and neccs- sity shall command. 10. Item, when any inferior or mean officer, of what def;rnc or condition he shall be, shall be tried nntfue, remiss, neglij^'nt, or unprofitable, in or about his office in the voj afrc, or not to use himself in his charge accordingly, then every such officer to be punisned or removetl, ut the discretion of the captain and assistants, or the most part of them, and the person so removed not to be reputed, accepted, or taken, from the time of his remove, any more lor an officer, but to remain in such condition and place as he shall be assigned unto, and none of the company to resist such chastisement or worthy punishment as shall Ix; ministered to him moderately, according to the fault ordes(rt of nis oflencc, after the law» and common customs of the seas m such cases hercioi'orc used and observed. 11. Item, if any mariner, or officer inferior, shall be found by his labour not meet nor worthy the place that he is presently shipped for, such jKTson may be unshipped and put on land at any place within the king's majesty's realm and dominion, and one other person more able and worthy to bt put in his place, at the discretion of the captain and masters, and order to be taken that the party dismissed shall be allowed nroix>rtionably the value of that he shall have deserved to the time of his dismission or discharge, and he to give order, with sureties, pawn, or other assurance, to repay the overplus of that he shall have received which he shall not have deserved, and such wages to be made with the party newly placed as shall be thought reasonable, and he to nave the furniture of all such necessaries as were prepared for the party dismissed, according to right and conscience, 12. Item, that no blaspheming of God, or detestable swearing, be used in any ship, nor communication of ribaldry, filthy tales, or ungodly tidk, to be suffered in the com- pany of any ship, neither dicing, carding, tabling, nor other devilish games, to be fre- quented, whereoy cnsueth not only poverty to the players, but also strife, variance, brawling, fighting, and oftentimes murder, to the utter destruction of the parties, and provoking of God's most just wiath and sword of vengeance. These, and all such like pestilences and contagions of vices and sins, to be eschewed, and the offenders once monished, and not reforming, to be punished at the discretion of the captain and mas- ter, as appertaineth. 13. Item, that morning and evening prayer, widi other common services appointed by the king's majesty and laws of this realm, to be read and siid in every ship daily by the minister in the admiral, and the merchant or some other person learned in other ship, and the Bible or paraphrases to be read devoutly and christianly, to God's honour, and for liis grace to be obtained and had, by humble and hearty prayer of the navigants accordingly. 14. Item, that every officer is to be charged by inventory with the particulars of his charge, and to "rnder a perfect accompt of the defraying of the same, together with modest and temp< rate dispending of powcler, shot, and use of all kind of artillery, which is not to be misused, but cfiligently to be preserved, for the necessary defence, of the fleet and voyage, tt^ther with due keeping of all instruments of your navigation, and other requiMtes. & » ' I ; ll '1 'I I 4 vov.voM or «n iiffjii w(i.i,oirr.iinv and otiip.r^ 15. Item, no lifiuor to Ih' spill on the hidlast, nor filtliineHs tf) l)c left within l)onrd ; the cook-room anil all otiu r pliK es to Ik- kept clean, for the better health of the com- pany ; the gromaN and pa^n to Ik- hroiight up according to the laudable order and use of the sea, as well in learning of navigation, as in exercising of that which lo them ap|Krtaineth. If). Item, the liveries in apparel given to the mariners be to be kept by the merchanta, and not to be worn but by the ordir of the captain, when he shall see cause to nuister or shew them in gtx)d array, for the advancement and honour of the voyagi-, and the li. veries to be re-delivered to the kee[)ing of the merchants, luUil it shall Ix; thought con- venient for everj- person to have the full use of his garment. 17. Item, Avhen any mariner or any other |)assengtr shall have need of any neceii- shry furniture of apparel for his b'Kly, anil conservation of his health, the siuue shall be delivered him by the merchant, at the assiginnent of the captain and master of that ship wherein such needy jK-rson shall Ik-, at such reasonable price as the same cost, without any gain lo be exacted by the merchants, the value thereof to Ix; entered by the nier- chant in his book, and the same to be discounted off the party's wages that so shall re- ceive and wear the same. 18. Item, the sick, diseaicd, weak, and visited person within board, to l)e tendered, relieved, comfoiled, and hel^ied, in the time of his infirmity ; and every manner of |Krson, without resix.'ct, to bear another's burthen, and no man to a'fuse such labour as shall Ijc p'U to him, for the most benefit and pul>lic wealth of the voyage and enterprise to be achieved exactly. 19. Item, if any person shall fortune to die, or miscarry in the voyage, such apparel and other goixis as he shall have, at the time of his death, is to be kept by the order of the captain imd master of the ship, and an inventory to be made of it, and conserved to the use of his wife and children, or otherwise, according to his mind and will, and the day of his death to be entered in the merchant's and steward's books, to the intent it may be knoAvn what wages he shall have deserved to his death, and what shall rest due to him. 20. Item, that the merchants appointed for this present voyage shall not make any shew or sale of any kind of mercnandises, or open their commodities, to any foreign princes, or any of their subjects, without the consent, privity, or agreement of the cap- tains, the cape merchants, and the assistants, or four them, whereof tlie captain-gene- ral, the pilot-major, and cape merchant, to be three, and every of the petty merchants to shew his reckoning to the cajxj merchant, when they, or any of them, shall be required : and no commutation or truck to be made by any of the petty merchants, without the assent abovesaid : and all wares and commodities trucked, bought, or given to the com- pany by way of lerchandise, truck, or any other respect, to be booked by the mer- chants, and to !>: well ordered, packed, and conserved in one mass entirely, and not to be broken or altered until the ship shall return to the right discharges, and inventory of all goods, wares and merchandises, so trucked, bought, or otherwise dispended, to be presented to the governor, consuls, and assistants in London, in good order, to the intent the king's majesty may be truly answered of that which to his grace by his g:.'..» of cor- porations is limited, according to our most bound duties, and the whole oi '.>|^»any also to have that which by right unto them apperlaineth, and no embezzlemejit shrUi Le used, but the truth of the whole voyage to be opened, to the commonwealth and btiu ik of the whole company and mystery, as appertaineth, without guile, fraud, or miMLL0Ur.H8Y AND OTHERS, 30. Item, if you shall see them wear lions' or bears' skins, having long bows and ?r. rows, be not afraid of that sight : for such be worn oftentimes more to fear strangers, than for any other cause. 31. Item, there are people that can swim in the sea, havens, and rivers, naked, hav- ing bows and shafls, covetmg to draw nigh your ships, which, if they shall find not well watched or Avarded, they will assault, desirous of the bodies of men, which they covet for meat : if you resist them, dicy dive, and so will flee, and therefore diligent watch b to be kept both day and night in some islands. 32. Item, if occasion shall serve, that you may give advertisements of your pro- ceedings in such things as may correspond to the exj>cctation of the company, and like- lihood of SUCCC3S in the voyage, passing such dangers of the seas, perils of ice, in- tolerable colds, ai;d other impediments, which, by sundry authors and writers, have ministered matter of suspicion in some heads that this voyage could not succeed, for the extremity of the north pole, lack of passage, and such like, which have caused wavering mmds and doubtful heads not only to withdraw themselves from the ad- venture of this voyage, but also dissuaded others from the same, the certainty whereof, Avhen you shall have tried by experience (most certain master of all worldly knov/- ledge) then, for declaration of the truth which you shall have experted, you may, by common assent of counsel, send, either by land or otherwise, such two or one person, to bring the same by credit, as you shall think may pass in safety : which sending is not to be done but upon urgent causes, in likely success of the voyage, in finding of [)assage, in towardliness of beneficial trafiic, or such other like, whereby the company, being advertised of your estates and proceedings, may further provide, foresee, and de- termine that which may seem most good and beneficial for the public wealth of the same ; either providing beforehand such things as shall be requisite for the continu- ance of the voyage, or else otherwase to dispose as occasion shall serve : in which tilings your wisdoms and discretions are to be used, and shewed, and the contents of this capitule by you much to be pondered, for that you be not ignorant hcv many persons, as well as the king's majesty, the lords of his honourable counsel, this whole company, as also your wives, children, kinsfolks, allies, friends, and familiars, be replenished in their hearts with ardent desire to learn and know your estates, ccmditions, and wel- fares, and in what likelihood you be in to obtain this notable enterprize, which is hoped no less to succeed to you, than the Orient or Occident Indies have to the high benefit of the emperor and kings of Portugal, whose subjects, industries, and travels by sea, have enriched them, by those lands and islands, which were to all cosmogra- phers and other writers both unknown, and also by appearances of reason void of ex- perience thought and reputed unhabitable, for extremities of heats and colds, and yet indeed, tried, most rich, peopled, temperate, and so commodious, as all Europe hath not the like. 33. Item, no conspiracies, part-takings, factions, false tales, imtrue reports, which be the very seeds and fruits of contention, discord, and confusion, by evil tongues, to be suffered, but the same, and all other ungodliness, be chastened charitably with brotherly love, and always obedience to be used and practised by all persons in their degrees, not only for duty and conscience sake towards God, under whose mercifiil hand navigants above all other creatures naturally be most nigh and vicine, but also for prudent and worldly policy, and public weal, considering and always having present in your minds, that you be all one most royal king's subjects and n^urals, with daily remembrance of the great importance of the voyage, the honour, glory, praise, and ...#?:, .*.. li. TO THE NORTHERN PARTS OP RUSSFA AKD STOERIA. f benefit, that depend of and upon the same, toward the conimon wealth of this noble realm, tlx advancement of you the travellers therein, your wives, and children, and 30 to endeavour yourselves as that you may satisfy the expectation of them, who at their great costs, charges, and expences, have so furnished you in good sort, and plenty of all necessaries, as the like was never in any realm seen, used, or known, reauisitc and needful for such an exploit, which is most likely to be achieved and brought to good effect, if every person in his vocation shall cndeavoy himself, according to his charge and most boundcn duty : praying the living God to give you his grace to accom][>lish your charge to his glory, whose merciful hand shall prosper your voyage, and preserve you from all dangers. In witness whereof I, Sebastian Cabota, governor aforesaid, to these present ordinan* ces have subscribed my name, and put my seal, the day and year above written. THE NAMES OF THE TWT.LAE COUNSELLORS APPOINTED IN THIS VOYAGE. 1. Sir Hugh Willoughby, knight, captain general. 2. Richard Chancelor, captain of the Edward Bonaventurc, and pilot-general of the fleet. 3. George Burton, cape merchant. 4. Master Richard Stafford, minister. 5. Thomas Langlie, merchant. 6. James Delahere, gentleman. 7. William Gcfferson, master of the Bona Speranza admiral. 8. Stephen Burrough, master of the Edward Bonaventure. 9. Cornelius Durforth, master of the Confidentia. 10. Roger Wilson, 11. John Buckla 12. Richard Ingram, The copy of the letters missive, which the right noble Prince Edward the Sixth sent to the kings, princes, and other potentates, inhabiting the north-east parts of the world, toward the mighty empire of Cathay ; at such time as sir Hugh IFilloughhy, knight, and Richard Chancelor, with their company, attempted their voyage thither in the year of Christ 1553, and the seventh and last year of his reign. Edward the Sixth, by the grace of God, king of England, France, and Ireland,. &c. To all kings, princes, nilers, judges, and governors of the earth, and all other having any excellent dignity on die same, in all places under the universal heaven : peace, tranquillity and honour, be unto you, and your lands and regions, which are un- der your dominions, and to every of you, as is convenient. For as much as the great and Almighty God hath given unto mankind, above all other liymg creatures, such a heart an*' desire, that every man desireth to join friend- ship with other, to love and be loved, also to g^ve and receive mutual benefits : it is therefore the duty of all men, according to their power, to maintain arid increase this de^re in every man, with well deserving to all men and especially to shew this good affection to such as, being moved with this desire, come unto them from far countries. For how much the longer voyage they have attempted for this intent, so much the more do they thereby declare timt this desire hath been ardent in diem. Furthermore, also, the examples of our fathers and predecessors do invite us hereunto, 1 uurronn, ^ilson, ^ kland, > ngram, ) masters' mates. ii i»tW! rr | fc. a» ^gj ii* fj -* Oyr/~IgT.. . . aj.! - * * — -■ l! 9 VOYAGES OF S!tt HUGH WILLOUCMBY AND OTVfERS. forasmuch as they have ever gently and lovingly intreated such as of friendly mind came to them, as well from countries near hand as far remote, commending them- selves to their jprotection. And if it be right and equity to shew such humanity toward all men, doubtless the same ought chiefly to be shewn to merchants, who, wandering about the world, search both the land and the sea, to carry such good and profitable tilings, as are found in their countries, to remote regions and kingdoms, and again, to bring from the same such things as they find there, commodious for their own coun- tries : both as well that the people, to whom they go, may not be destitute of such commodities as their countries bring not forth to them, as that also they may be par- takers of such thin^ whereof they abound. For the God of heaven and earth, greatly providing for mankmd, would not that all things should be found in one agion, to the end that one should liave need of another, that by this means friendship might bf; established among all men, and every one seek to gratify all. For the establishing and furtherance of which universal amity, certain men of our realm, moved hereunto by the said desire, have instituted, and taken upon them a voyage by sea into far countries, to the intent, that between pur people and them s^ way may be opened, to bring in and carry out merchandises, desiring us to further their enterprize. Who, assenung to their petition, have licensed the right valiant and worthy sir Hugh Willoughby, knight, and other our trusty and faiUiful servants, wWch are with him, according to their desire, to go to countries to them heretofore unknown, as well to seek such things as we lack, as also to carry unto them from our re^ons such things as they lack. So that hereby not only commodity may ensue both to them and us, but also an undissoluble and perpetual league of friendship be established between us both, while they permit us to take of their things such, whereof they have abundance in their regions, and we ag^n grant them such things of ours, whereof they are destitute. We therefore desire you kings and princes, and all other to whom there is any power on the earth, to permit unto these our servants free passage by your regions and do- minions : for they shall not touch any thing of youra unwilling unto vou. Consider you that they also are men. If, therefore, they shall stand in need of any thing, we desire you of all humanity, and for the nobility which is in you, to aid and help them with such things as they lack, receiving agun of them such things as they shall be able to give you in r^compence. Shew yourselves so towards them, as you would that we and our subjects should shew ourselves towards your servants, if at any time they shall pass by our regions. Thus doing, we promise you, by the God of all things that are contained in heaven, earth, and the sea, and by the life and tranquillity of our kingdoms, that we will with like humanity accept your servants, if at any time they shall come to our kingdoms, where they shall as friendly and gently be entertained, as if they were bom in our dominions, that we may hereby recompence the favour and benignity which you have shewed to our men. Thus, after we have desired you kings and princes, &c. with all humanity and favour to entertain our well-beloved servants, we will pray our Al- mighty God to grant you long life and peace, which never shall have end. Written in London, which is the chief city of our kingdom, in the year from the creation of the world 5515, in the month of Jiar,* the fourteenth day of the month, and seventh year of our reign. * Hakluyt supposes this to be the Saracen name of February. In the geography of these times, the ravages of the north of Europe were supposed to be Saracens. This letter is translated by Uakluyt from the Latin, and he adds, that it was likewise written in Greek and other languages. '~r ■--na TO TUF, NORTFIF.IIX PARTS OF RUSSIA AND SinRIilA. The t^venty-second day from Tilbury Hope to HoUie Haven. The twenty-third day from Hollie Haven, till we came against Lee, and there remained that night, by reason that the whid was contrary to us. The twenty-fourth day, the wind being in the S. W. in the morning, we sailed along the coast over the Spits, until we came against St. O^yth, about six of the clock at night, and there came to anchor, and abode there all that night. if I 19 V0TA0R9 OP SIR HUOff WILLOUOHDY AND OTlIEnS, The twenty-fifth day, about ten of the clock, we departed from St. Osyth, and so sail- ed forward unto the Niise, and there abode that night for wind and tide. Tile twenty-sixth day, at five of the clock in the morning, we weighed our anchor, and sailed over the Nase, the wind being at the S. W. until we came to Orwell Wands, and there came to an anchor, and abode there until the twenty-eighth day. The same day being Trinity Sunday, al)out seven of the clock before noon we weighed our anchors, and sailed till we came athwart Walsursyc, and there came to an anchor. The twenty-ninth day from thence to Holmehead, where we stayed that day, where we consulted which way and what courses were best to be holden, for the discovery of our voyage, and there agreed. The thirtieth day of May, at five of the clock in the morning, we set sail, and came against Permouth, about tnree leagues into the sea, riding there at anchor all that night. The last of May into the sea six leagues N. £. and 'lere tarried Uiat night, where the wind blew very sore. The first of June, the wind being at north, contrary to us, we came back again to Orwell, and remained there until the fifteenth day, tarrying for the wind, for all this time the wind was contrary to our purpose. The fifteenth day, being at Orwell, in the latitude of fifty-two degrees,, in the morning we weighed our anchors, and went forth into the Wands, about two miles from the town, and lay there that night. The sixteenth day, at eight of the clock, we set forward, and sailed until we came athwart Alburrough, and there stayed that night. The seventeenth dav , about five of the clock before noon, we went back unto Orfoid- nesse, and there remained until the nineteenth day. The nineteenth day, at eight of the clock in the morning, we went back to Orwell, and abode there three days, tarrying for the wind. The twenty-third day of June, the wind being fair in the S. W. we hailed into the seas to Orfordnesse, and from thence into the seas ten leagues N. E. then being past the sands, we changed our course six leagues N. N. £. about midnight we changed our course again, and went due N. continuing in the same unto the twenty-seventh day. The twenty-seventh day, about seven of the clock, N. N. W. forty-two leagues, to the end to fall with Shetland : then the wind veered to the W. so that we cotild lie but N. and by W. continuing in the same course forty leagues, whereby we could not fetch Shotland : then we sailed N. sixteen leagues by estimation, after that N. and by W. and N. N. W. then S. E. with divers other courses, traversing and tracing the seas, by rea- son of sundry and manifold contrary winds, until the fourteenth day of July : and then the sun entering into Leo, we discovered land eastward of us, unto the which we sailed that night as much as we might : and after we went on shore with our jiinnace, and found little houses to the number of thirty, where we knew tliat it was inhabited, but the peo- ple were fled away, as we judged, for fear of us. The land was all full of little islands, and that innumerable, which were called (as we learned afterwards) iEgeland, and Halgeland, which lieth from Orfordnesse N. and by E. being in the latitude of sixty-six degrees.* The distance between Orfordnesse and ^geland two hundred and fifty leagues. Then we sailed fi"om thence twelve leagues N. W. and found many other islands, and there came to anchor the luneteenth day, and * In fact between fifty-four and fifty-five degrees. i-vi' '71*^!,' ■ ,1.- TO THE NORTIIKRN TARTS OF RUSSIA ANU SIDKRIA. l;i t manned our pinnace, and went on shore to the islands, and found tKoplc mowinj^ and making of hay, which came to the shore and welcomed us. In which place were an innumerable sort of islands, which were called the Isles of Rost, being imucr the do minion of the king of Denmark : which place was in lat'tude sixty*six degrees, and tliirty minutes. The wind being contrary, we remained there three days, and tlierc was an innumerable sort of fowls of clivers kinds, of which we took very many. The twenty-second day, the wind coming fair, we departed from Rost, sailing N. N. E. keeping the sea until the twenty-seveiuh day, and then we drew near unto the land, which was still E. of us ; then went forth our pinnace to seek harbour, and found mam- good harbours, of the wliich we entered into one with our ships, which was called Stan- few, and the land lieing islands, were called Lewfoot, or Lofoot,* which were plentifully inhabited, and very gentle people, being also under the king of Denmark ; but we could not learn how far it was from the main land : and we remained there until the thirtieth day, being in latitude sixty-eight degrees, and from the aforesaid Rost about thirty leagues N. N. E. The thirtieth day of July about noon we weighed our anchors, and went into the seas, and sailed along these islands N. N. E. keeping the land still in sight until the second day of August : then hailing in close aboard the land, to the intent to know what land it was, there came a skiff of the bland aboard of us, of whom we asked many questions, who she\ved unto us that the island was called Scynam,t which is the latitude of seventy dc grees, and from Staniew thirty leagues, being also under the king of Denmark ; and that there was no merchandise there, but only dried fish and train oil. Then we, being purpos- ed to go unto Finmark, inquired of him if we might have a pilot to bring us unto Fin* mark : and he said, that if we could bear in, we should have a good harbour, and on the next day a pilot to bring us to Finmark, unto the Wardhousc, which is the strongest hold in Finmark, and most resorted to by report. But when we would have entered into an harbour, the land being very high on eveiy side, there came such flaws of wind and ter. rible whirlwinds, that we were not able to bear in, but by violerce were eon >irained to take the sea again, our pinnace being unshipped : we sailed N. and by E. the wind increasing so sore that we were not able to bear any sail, but took them in, and lay adrift, to the end to let the storm overpass. And that night, by violence of wind and thickness of mists, we were not able to keep together within sight, and then about midnight we lost our pin- nace, which was a discomfort unto us. As soon as it was day, and the fog overpast, we looked about, and at the last we descried one of our ships to leeward of us ; then we spread an huilock of our foresail, and bare room with her, which was the Confidence, but the Edward we could not see. Then the flaw somediing abating, we imd the Confidence hoisted up our sajls the fourth day, sailing N. E. and by N. to the end to fall with the Ward- house, as we did consult to do before, in case we should part company. Thus running N. £. and by N. and N. E. fifty leagues, then we sounded, and had one hundred and ty &thoms, whereby we thought to be far from land, and perceived that the land lay not as the globe made niention. Wherefore we changed our course the sixth day, and sailed S. E. and by S. eight-and-forty leagues, thinking thereby to find the Wa;-dhouse. The eighth day, much wind rising at the W. N. W. we, not knowing how the coast lay, struck our s^s, and lay adrift, where we sounded, and found one hundred and sixty fathoms as afore. The ninth day, the wind veering to the S. S. E. we sailed N. £. twenty-five leagues; Loflfoden. 4 Setijan. 11 u VOYAGES OP SIR IIUOII WILLOlCimV AND OTIIEnS. The tenth day we sounded, and could get no ground, neither yet could see any land, whereat we wondered' ; then the wind coming at the N. E. we ran S. E. about forty, eight leagues. The eleventh day, the wind being at S. we sounded, and found forty fathoms and fair sand. The twelfth day, the wind being at S. and by E. we lay with our sail £. and E. and by N. thirty leagues. The fourteenth day, early in the morning, we descried land, which land we bare with idl, hoisting out our boat to discover what land it might be : but the Iwat could not come to land the water was so shoal, where was very much ice also, but there was no similitude of habitation, and t s land lieth from Seynam E. and by N. one hundred and sixty leagues, being in latitude seventy-two degrees. Then we plied to the northward the fifteenth, sixteentli, and seventeenth day. The eighteenth day, the wind coming at the N. E. and the Confidence being troubled with bilge water, luid stocked, we thought it good to seek harbour for her redress : then wc bare room the eighteenth day S. S. E. about seventy leagues. The twenty-first day we sounded, and found ten fathom, after that we sounded again, and found but seven fathom, so shallower and shallower water, and yet could see no land, where we mar \ died greatly : to avoid this danger, we bare roomer into the sea all that night N. W. and by W. The next day we sounded, and had twenty fathoms, then shaped our course, and raa W. S. W. until the twenty-third day : then we descried low land, unto which we bare as nigh as we could, and it appeared unto us unhabitable. Then we plied westward along by that land, which lieth W. S. W. and E. N. E. at>dmuch wind blowing at the W. we haled into the sea N. and by F.. thirty leagues. Then the wind coming about at the N. E. wc sailed W. N. W. after that, the wind bearing to tlie N. W. we lay with our sails W. S. W. about fourteen leagues, and then descried land, and bare in with it, being the twenty-eighth day, finding shoal water, and bare in till we came to three fathom, then per« ceiving it to be shoal water, and also seeing dry sands, we haled out again N. E. along that land, until we came to the point thereof. That land turning to the westward, we ran along sixteen leagues N. W. then coming into a fair bay, we went on land with our boat, which place was unhabited, but yet it appeared unto us that the people had been there, by cross(;s and other signs : from thence we went all along the coast westward. The fourth day of September we lost sight of land, by reason of contrary winds, and the eighth day we descried land again. Within two days afler we lost the sight of it : then running W. and by S. about thirty leagues, we got the sight of land again, and bare in with it until night : then perceiving it to be a lee shore, we got us into the sea, to the end to liave sea room. The twelfth of September we haled to shoreward again, having then indiflPerent wind and weather : then being near unto the shore, and the tide almost spent, we came to an anchor in thirty fathoms water. The thirteenth day, we came along the coast which lay N. W. and by W. and S. E. and by E. The fourteenth day we came to an anchor within two leagues of the shore, having sixty fathoms. There we went ashore with our boat, and found two or three good harbours, the land being rocky and high, but as for people we could see none. The fifteenth day we ran still along the coast, until the seventeenth day : then the wind being contrary unto us, M ' TO THE NOIiTIIKUN I'AHTH OK HI »MIA AND hlHKRIA 15 wc thought It best to return unto the hurbour which we had found before, and so wc bare roomer with the same, howlxit we could not accomplisli our desire that day. The next day, Ixing the eighteenth of SepUmber, wc entered uUo the haven, and there came to an anchor at six fathoms. This haven runneth into the main, about two leagues, and is in breadth half a. league, wherein were very many seal fishes, and other great fishes, and upon die main wc saw Ixam, great deer, foxes, with divers strange JK-asts, as jju- loines,* and such oUier which were to us unknown, and also wonderful. Thus remaining in this luven the space of a week, seeing the year far six;nt, and also very evil weather, as frost, snow, and hail, as though it had been the deep ot winter, we tliought licst to winter there. Wherefore wc sent out three men S. S. W. to search if they could find people, who went three days journey, but could find none : after that wc sent other three westward, four days journey, wliich also returned without finding any people. Then sent we three men S. E. three davs journey, who in like sort returned without finding of people, or any similitude of habitation. These two notes following were written ujwn the outside of this pamphlet or book. " 1. The proceedings of sir Hugh Willougliby, after he was separated from the Ed- ward Bonaventurc. "2. Our ship being at an anchor in the harbour culled Sterfier, in the island Lofoote." The river or haven, wherein sir Hugli Willougliby with the company of his two ships perished for cold, is called Arzina, in Lapland, near unto Kegor. But it appeareth by a will found in the ship, that sir Hugh Willoughby and most of the company were alive in January 1554. * Hakluyt add* upon the margin, or elloru : and adds, that in this harb\ jr they died. >.-*>H .■ ,/» '. fV i' •irf -«!■ * " .'-^ .•'«■ , [iwr- .A'^\ :i *■ 1 i.-jti- Wu., r^^/*--- .'fit >«-« -''Ui V* •' 3 4M h :v • .;:,>«.'•* >tf,' * ' th, '■•■ :•,-».-' ' ,\ '1 t ..> •vA ^. ■t:>",--..-.;f • f ,.,.»».•'"• ■ •'' ■«( ..>'(• JjS^; .^•,- ^v^iatt-:-,' J^iV.» ! •^..'■*i4« ».« kl-jK'-!, ~J'»*»« 16 VOYAf.FJ OP SIR IIUOII WK.LOUGIIBV AND OTRRH^ ♦ i-^;.* .' :. tw The Book of the great and mighty Emperor qf Jius-ua, and duke (\f Afnseovia, and of the domiuions, orders ana commodities thereunto belonging : drawn by Richard Chancelor. ■ , | • •• • ■ • FOR UM much as it is meet and necessary for all those that mind to tnku in hand the travel into Cur or strange countries, to endeavour themselves not only to understand the orders, commodities, and fruitfulness thereof, but also to apply them to the setting forth of the same, whereby it may encourage others to the like tnwail : therefore hive I now thought good to moke a brief rehearsal of the orders of this my travail in Uussia and Moscoviu, and other countries thereunto adjoining ; lx:cause it was my chance to fall with the north parts of Russia Ijeforc I came towards Moscoviu, I will partly declare my knowledge therein. Russia is very plentiful both of land and people, and also wealthy for such commodities as they have. They be very great fisnen for salmons and small cods : they have much oil, which we call train oil, the most whereof is made by a river called Duina. They make it in other places, but not so much as there. They have also u great trade in seething of salt water. To the north part of that country are the places where they have their furs ; as sables, martems, greesse beavers, foxes white, black, and red ; minks, ermines, miniver, and harts. There arc also a fish's teeth, which fish is called a morsse. The takers thereof dwell in a place called Postesora, which bring them unon harts to Lampas to sell, and from Lampas carry them to a place called Colmogro, where the high market is holden on St. Nicholas day. To the west of Colmogro there is a place called Gratanove, in our language Novogorode, where much fine flax and hemp groweth, and also much wax and honey. The Dutch mer. chants have a staple house there. There is also great store of hides, and at a place called Flesco : and thereabouts is great store of flax, hemp, wax, honey ; and that town is from Colmogro one hundred and twenty miles. There is a place called Vologtla, the commodities whereof are tallow, wax, and flax ' but not so great plenty as is in Gratanove. From Vologda to Colmogro there runneth a river called Duina, and from thence it falleth into the sea. Colmogro serveth Gra- tanove, Vologda, and the Mosco, with all the country thereabout, with salt and salt fish. From Vologoi to Jeraslave is two hundred miles ; which town is very great : the com- modities thereof are hides, and tallow, and com in great plenty, and some wax, but not so plentiful as in other places. The Mosco is from Jeraslave two hundred miles. The country betwixt them is very well replenished with small villages, which are so well filled with people, that it is wonder to see them : the ground is well stored with com, which they carry to the city of Mosco in such abundance, that it is wonder to see i; You shall meet in a morning seven or eight hundred sledges coming or goin^ thither, that carry com, and some carry fish. You shall have some that carry com to the Mosco, and some that fetch com from thence, that at the least dwell a thousand miles off*; and all their carriage is on sledges. Those which come so far dwell in the north parts of the duke's dominions, where the cold will suffer no com to grow, it is so extreme. They bring ttuther fishes, furs, and beasts* skins. In those parts they have but small store of cattle. The Mosco itself is great : I take the whole town to be greater than London with the suburbs ; but it is very mde, and standeth without all or&r. Their houses are all of timber, very dangerous for fire. There is a fair castle, the walls whereof are of brick, fe*' i:^- ^^.. ^ TO Till'. NOitTIIKRN PAIITN OV RiMMIA AND KIIU'.III \. |7 and very high; tlioy say tlvcy arc clghtiTti fret tliirk, hut I do not hdicvc it, it doth not ■o bccm, itotwitKstundiMK I do not cirtuinly know it ; for no htrungvr may conu- to view k. The one Mdc is ditched, and on the other side niimcth a river called MfMcua, uhicK runneth into Turtur)', and so into the Hca called Maa- Caspium : and on the north side tlk-re i(i a Uuie town, the which hath also a brick wall ut)0ut it, and vi it joincth with (lir cattle wall. The emperor lieth in the caitUe, wherein na* nine fair churches, and ilieaiu •re religious men. Also there is a mctrr)politnn, with divcnt bislvipii. I will not stand in di'iicription of their buiklings, nor of tiie strength tlK-reof, because wc Ivivc Ix-ttcr in all points in England. They be well fumi.shed widi ordinance of all soi ts. The emperor's or duke's house, neither in building, nor in the outward shew, nor yet within tlx: house, is so sumptuous as I have seen. It is very low built in eight srpnuv, niucli like the old building of Knglarul, with small windows, and so in otln-r |)oints. Now to declare my conung before his nuijesty : ai\er I luid rcmiiined twelve da}'s, the secretary which hath the hearing of strangers did send for me, advertising mc that the duke's |ileasurc was to have me to come before his majesty with the kuig's my master's letters ; whereof I was right glad, aiul so I gave miiK* attencLince. And when the duke was in his place appointed, tlic inteq)retcr came for mc into the outer churi- ber, where sat one hundred or more gentlemen, all in cloth of gold, very sumptuous, IUkI from thence I came into the council chaml)er, where siU the duke himself with his nobles, which were a fair company : they sat round about the chamlxr on high, yet so that he iiimaelf sat much higher than any of his nobles, in a chair gilt, and in a long garment of beaten gold, with an imperial cmwn upon his liead, and a stalT of cr>'stal and gold in hb right hand, and lus other hand half leaning on his chair. The chancellor stood up with the aecretary before the duke. Ailer my duty done, and my letter deli- vered, be bade me welcome, and inquired of me the health of the king my master ; and I answered that he waa in good health at my departure from his court, and that my trust was, that he was now in the same. Upon the which he bade mc to dinner. I'he chan- cellor presented my present unto his grace bareheaded ^for before they were all covered) and wnen his grace nod received my letter, I waa required to depart : for I had charge not to speak to the duke, but when he spake to mc. So I departed unto the secretary's chamber, where I remained two hours, and then I was sent for again unto another palace, wluch b called the golden palace, but I saw no cause why it should be so called ; for I have seen many fairer than it in all points : and so I came into the hall, which was small and not great, as is the king's majesty's of England, and the table was covered with a table-cloth ; and the marshall sat at the end of the table with a little white rod in his hand, which board was full of vessels of gold : and on the other side of the hall did stand a fair cupboard of plate. From thence I came into the dining chamber, where the duke himself sat at his table without cloth of estate, in a gown of silver, with a crown imperial on his head ; he sat in a chair somewhat high : there sat none near him by a great wav. There were long tables set round about the chamber, which were ii.ll set with sucn as the duke had at dinner : they were all in white. Also the places where the tables stood were higher by two steps than the rest of the house. In the midst of the chamber stood a taUe or cupboard to set plate on ; which stood full of cups of gold : and amongst all the rest there stood four marvellous great pots or crudences, as they call them, of gold and silver : I think they were a good yard and a half high. By the cupboard stood two gentlemen with napkins on their shoulders, and in their hands each of them had a cup of gold set with pearls and precious stones, which were the duke's own drinking-cupe : when he was disposed, he drank them off at a draught And for vol., I. o ■I t t I >l 1 ' ' ! i : ''I I iS %UYA(1KS OP SIH IIKIH WIl.l.OirniinT AND (rrilKM, his ler ice nt meat it came in without ortlcr, yet it wan very rich service : for ull were served in {^oUl, not only lie hitnnclf, hut nino all tlu* rc^t of us, und it wiw very nmssy : till" ctipn also were of gt)UI, and very massy. The number Uut dintd there timt day was two hundred |Knions, and ull were served in (folden venseK. The (gentlemen that waited were all in cloth of ((old, and they served hint with their caps on their hcuch. Before the service came in the duke sent to every man u great shiver of bread, and the l)earer called the party so sent to by his name aloud, and said, John Kasiliuich, emixror of lluHsiu, and frreat duke of Moseovia, doth rewatxl thee with breail : then must all men stand up, ana do at all times wIku these words arc stK)ken. And then last of all lie givcth the marshall bread, whereof he catcth Ijcfore the duke's grace, and so doth re- verence and de()arteth. Tlwn comcth tlic duke's service of the swans, all in pieces, and every one in a several dish : the which the duke sendeth as he did the l)rcad, and the l)carcr saith the same wonis as he said before. And as I said iH'fore, the service of his meat is in no order, but comcth in dish by dish : and then after that the duke scncLth drink, with the like sa^^ing as lK>foa* is told. Also lx;fore dinner he changed his crown, and in dinner time two crowns ; so that I saw three several crowns upiou his head in one day. And thus, when his service was all come in, he gave to every one of his gentlemen waiters meat with his own hand, and so likewise drink. His intent thereby is, as I have heard, that every man shall know perfectly his servants. Thus, wlicn dinner is done, he calleth his nobles before him name by name, that it is wonder to hear how he could name them, having so many as he hath. Thus, when dinner was done, I de|)arted to my lodging, which was an hour widiin night, I will leave this, and six:alc no more of him nor nis household : but I will somewhat declare of his land and |xx)ple, with their nature and power in the wars. This duke is lord and emperor of many countries, and his (Mwcr is marvellous great ; for he is able to bring into the field two or three hundred thousand men : he never goeth into the field himself with under two hundred thousand lAcn : and when he goetn himself he furnisheth his borders all with men of war, which are no small number. He leaveth on the borders of Liefliuid forty thousand men, and upon the borders of Letto sixty thousand men, and toward the Na- gayan Tartars sixty thousand, which is wonder to hear of: yet doth he never take to his wars neither husbandmen nor mcrchimt. All his men are horsemen : he useth no footmen, but such as go with the ordinance and labourers, which are thirty thousand. The horsemen arc all archers, with such bows as the Turks have, and they ride short as do the Turits. Their armour is a coat of plate, with a skull on their heads. Some of their coats are covered with velvet or cloth of gold ; their desire is to be sumptuous in the field, and especially the nobles and gentlemen : as I have heard, their trimming is very costly, and parUy I have seen it, or else I would scarcely have believed it : but the duke himself is richly attired above ull measure ; his pavilion is covered either with cloth of gold or silver, and so set vr'iih stones, that it is wonderful to see it. I have seen the king's majesty's of England, and the French king's pavilions, which are fair, yet not like unto hb. And when they be sent into far or strange countries, or that strangers come to them, they be very gorgeous : else the duke himself goeth but meanly in ap- parel ; and when he goeth betwixt one place and another, he is but reasonably appa. reiled over other times. In the while that I was in Mosco the duke sent two ambassadors to the king of Poland, which had at the least five hundred horses ; tlieir sumptuousness was above measure, not only in themselves, but also in their horses, as velvet, cloth of gold, and cloth of silver, set with pearls, and not scant. What shall I ilu-ther say ? I never hrxd of nor saw men so sumptuous ; but it is no diiily guise, for when they have VJx Y'^f;, ....■•— I TO THB NORTIIRMM PART* Q¥ Rl'MU ANU MJH/.NIV' 19 not orcAfiion, as I nuid iK'fijrt', (ill their doiiin^ \h hut mean. And now to the effect of thi ir warn : tlwy urr nu n witlioiil all (trtUr in the fit-Ul ; for the y nui hurling on Iicuim, uiul for tlic moHt |mrt tlu-y never give buttle to their cncnuc; ; hut that which tlnry tlo, they do it ull hy ittculth. Hut I iKlicve they Ix: itnch men lor hard livinir uh are not under the Mm, for no cold will hurt tluin : yea, and thou(j;h they lie in tlu- field two niontliH, at such time at it aiiall freeze more than u yard thick, the cunmion soldier luih neither tent nor any thing clue over his hciui ; the monl defence they Imvc ugainut tlu U'cutlier iH a felt, which iH Hct against the wind and weather, luul witen snuw conieth he doth emt it oB', and maketh him a fia*, and layeth him down theahy. Thus do tlu most of ull his men, except they he gentlemen, which have other provihiuu of their own. Their lying in the lield is not ho Htrange lus in their hardine^ ; for every man must carry and malce |)rovision for himHclf and his horse for a month or two, which is very won- detful. For he him.srlf nhall live u|)on water and oatmeal mingled togi tlur cold, and drink water thereto : hiH honte Nbill eat ga*en wood, and hucIi like haggage, and hhall btand open in the cold field without covert, and yet will he lahour and st r\e him right well. I pray you, among all our lx)usting waiTioni, how many hhould we find to endun the field with them hut one month. I know no such region ahout us that iKareth that name for man and Ix-'Uht. Now what might l)e made of tliese men, if Uiey were trained and hmken to order and knuvvledge of civil wani ? If this prince had within hii countries buch men att could make them to understand the things aforesiiid, 1 do helicve that two of the best or greatest princes in Christendom were not well ahU> to match with him, considering the greatness of his power uiul the hardiiK^sn of his |K'ople, and strait living both of people and horse, and the small charges which his wars stand him in ; for he giveth no wages except to strangers. They liuve a yearly sti|K'nd, and not much. As for his own countrymen, every one scrveth of his own proper costs and cluirges, saving tliut he giveth to his arcubussiers certain allowance for powder and shot, or else no man • in all his country hath one penny wages. But if any man hath done very good service, he giveth him a fiirm or a piece of land ; for the which he is bound at all times to Ix- ready with so many men as the duke shall apfx^int ; who considetvlh in his mind what that land or farm is well able to find : and so many shall he he bound to furnish at ull and every such time as wars are holden in any of die duke's dominions. For there is no man of living but he is bound Ukewise, whether die duke call for either soldier or la- bourer, to furnish them, with all such necessaries as to them belong. Also, if any gentleman or man of living do die without issue mule, immediately oAcr his death the d'vke entereth his land, notwithstanding he Iiavc never so many daugh. •ters, and peradventure giveth it forthwith to another man, except a small portion tnat he spareth to many the daughters withal. Also, if there be a rich man, a fermour, or man of living, which is stricken in age, or by chance is maimed, and be not able to do the duke's service, some other gentkman that is not able to live, and more able to do service, will come to the duke and complain, saying, your grace hath such an one, which is unmeet to do service to your highness, who hath great abundance of wealth, and likewise your grace hath many gentlemen which are poor, and lack living, and wc that lack are \fe\\ able to do good service, your grace might do well to look upon him, and make him to help those that want. Immediately the duke sendeth forth to inquire , of his wealth ; and if it be so proved, he shall be called before the duke, and it shall r be said unto him, friend, you have too much living, and are unserviceable to your ' prince ; less will serve you, and the rest will serve other men that lu^e more able to serve ; whereupon immediately his living shall be taken away Irom him^ saving a little RB ' t I ' • II a I I.** i I 1 1- f ' ti' 1 1 1 I* ill' ill', I'. i; 20 VOYAGES OF SIR HUGH WtLLOUCIfBY AND OTimitS, to find himself and his ^vife on, and he may not once repine thereat : but for answer he will aay, that he hath nothing, but it is God's and the duke's grace's, and cannot say, as we the common people in Kngland say, if we have any thing, that it is God's and our own, Men may say that these men are in wonderful great awe, and obedi- ence, that thus one must give and grant his goods, which he hath been scraping and scratching for all his life, to be at his prince's pleasure and commandment. Oh that our sturdy rebels were had in the like subjection to know their duty tovrards their princes. They may not say, as some knaves m England say, I would find the queen a man to serve in my place, or make his friends tarry at home, if money have the upper hand. No, no, it is not so in this country : for he shall make humble suit to serve the duke. And whom he sendcth most to the wars, he thinketh he is most in his favour : and yet, as I before have said, he giveth no wages. If they knew their strength, no man were able to make match with them : nor they that dwell near tliem should have any rest of them. But I think it is not God's will : for I may compare them to a young horse that knoweth not his strength, whom a little child ruleth and guideth with a bridle, for all his great strength : for if he did, neither child nor man could rule him. Their wars are holden against the Crimme Tartarians and the Nagaians. I will stand no longer in the rehearsal of their i)ower and wars. For it were too tedious to the reader. But I will in part declare their laws and punishments, and th6 execution of justice. And first, I will begin with the commons of the country, which the gentlemen have rule on : and that is, that every gentleman hath nile and justice upon his own tenants. And if it so fall out that two gentlemen's servants or tenants do disagree, the two gentlemen examine the matter, and have the parties before them, and 80 give the sentence. And yet cannot they make the end betwixt them of the contro- versy, but either of the gentlemen must bring his servant or tenant before the high judge or justice of that country, and there present them, and declare the matter and case. The plaintiff saith, I require the law ; which is granted : then cometh an officer and arresteth the party defendant, and useth him contrary to the laws of England. For when they attach any man, they beat him about the legs, until such time as he findeth sureties to answer the matter : and if not, his hands and neck are bound together, and he is led about the town, and beaten about the legs, with other extreme punishments, till he come to his answer : and the justice demandeth, if it be for debt, and saith : owest thou this man any such debt ? He will, perhaps, say nay. Then saith the judge : art thou able to deny it? Let us hear how. By oath, saith the defendant. Then he commandeth to leave beating him, till furtlier trial be had. Their order in one point is commendable. They have no man of law to plead their causes in any court; but eVery man pleadeth his own cause, and giveth bill and answer in writing, contrary to the order in England. The complahi*: is in manner of a suppli- cation, and made to the duke's grace ; and delivered him into his own hand, n^uiring to have justice, as in his complaint is alleged. The duke giveth sentence himself upon all matters in the law : which is very com- mendable, that such a prince will take pains to see ministration of justice. Yet not- withstandi:ig it is wonderfully abused ; and thereby the duke is much deceived. But if it fall out that the officers be espied in cloaking the truth, they have most condign pun- ishment. And if the plaintiff can nothing prove, then the defendant must take his oath upon the crucifix whether he be in the right or no. Then is demanded if the plaintiff be any thing able farther to make proof : if he be not, then sometimes he will 8ay, iam able to prove it by my body and hands, or by my champions's body, so re- m^ TO THE NORTHERN PARTS OH RUSSIA AND STBF.IUA. Ql quiring the camp. After the other hath his oath, it is granted as well to the one as to the other. So when they go to the field they swear upon the criicilix, that they be both in the right, and that the one shall make the other to confess the truth before they de- part forth of the field : and so thcv go both to the battle, armed with such weapons as they use it. that country : they fight all on foot, and seldom the parties themselves do fight, except they be gentlemen. For they stand much upon their reputation, for they will not fight, but with such as are come of as good an house as themselves. So that if either party require the combat, it is granted unto them, and no caampion is to serve in their room : wherein is no deceit : but other^vise by champions there is. For al- though they take great oaths upon them to do the battle truly, yet is the contrary often seen : because the common champions have none other living. And as soon as the one party hath gotten the victory, he demandeth the debt, and the other is carried to prison, and there is shamefully used till he take order. There is also another order in the law, that the plaintiff may swear in some causes of debt. And if the party defend- ant be poor, he shall be set under the crucifix, and the party plaintiff must swear over his head ; and when he hath taken his oath, the duke taketh the party defendant home to his house, and useth him as his bondman, and putteth him to labour, or letteth him for hire to any such as need him, until such time as his friends make provision for his redemption : or else he remaineth in bondage all the days of his life. Again, there are many that will sell themselves to gentlemen or merchants, to be their bondmen, to have, during their life, meat, drink, and cloth, and at their cuniliig to have a piece of money. Yea, and some will sell their wives and children to be bawds and drudges to the buyer. Also they have a law for felons and pickers, contrary to the laws of Eng. land. For by their law they can hang no man for his first oflence ; but may keep him long in prison, and oftentimes beat him with whips and other punishment : and there he shall remain until his friends be able to bail him. If he be a picker, or a cut-purse, as there be very many, the second time he is taken he hath a piece of his nose cut off, and is burned in the forehead, and kept in prison till he find sureties for his good behaviour. And if he be taken the third time, he is hanged. And at the first time he is extremely punished, and not released except he have very good friends, or that some gentleman require to have him to the wars : and in so doing he shall enter into g*eat bonds for him : by which means the country is brought into good quietness, ut they be naturally given to great deceit, except extreme beating did bridle them. They be naturally given to hard living, as well in fare as in lodging. I heard a Russian say, that it was a great deal merrier living in prison than forth, but for the great beat- ing. For they have meat and drink without any labour, and get the charity of well- disposed people : but being at liberty they get nothing. The poor is very innume- rable, and live most miserably : for I have seen them eat the pickle of herring and other stinking fish ; nor the fish cannot be so stinking nor rotten, but they will eat it, and praise it to be more wholesome than other fish or fresh meat. In mine opinion there b? »^o such people under the sun for their hardness of living. Well, I will leavfe them in this point, and will in part declare their religion. They do observe the law of the Greeks with such excess of superstition, as the like hath not been heard of. They have no graven images in their churches, but all painted, to the intent they will not break the commandment : but to their painted images they use such idolatry, that the like was never heard of in England. They will neUher worship nor honour any image that is made forth of their own country. For their own images (say they) have pic- tures to declare what they be, and how they be of God, and so be not ours. They 23 voyac;e9 ok sm m.fiic willouciidy and others. say, look how the painter or carver hath made them, so we do worship them ; and they worship none before they be christened. They say we be but half christians : be- cause we observe not part of the old law \\ith the Turks. Therefore they call them- selves more holy than us. They have none other learning but their mother tongue, nor will suffer no otiier in their countrj- among them. All their service in churches is in their mother tongue. They have the Old and New Testament, which are daily reatl among them : and vet their superstition is no less. For when the priests do read, they Innc such tricks m their reading, that no mtin can understand them, nor no man giveth ear to them. For all the while the priest readeth, the people sit down, and talk one with another. But when the priest is at service no man sitteth, but gaggle and duck like so many geese. And as for their prayers, they have but litUe skill, but use to say Js bnd't pumcle : as much to say. Lord have mercy upon me. For the tenth man within the land cannot say the Pater Noster. And as for the creed, no man may be so bold as to meddle therewith but in the church : for they say it should not be spoken of but in the churches. Speak to them of the commandments, and they will saj- they were given to Moses in the law which Christ hath now abrogated by his precious death and passion ; therefore (say they) we observe little or none thereof. And I do believe them. For if they were examined of their law and com- mandments together, they should agree but in few points. They have the sacrament of the Lord's Supper, in both kinds, and more ceremonies than we have. They pre- sent them in a dish In both kinds together, and carry them round about the church upon the priest's head, and so do minister at all such times as any shall require. They be great offerers of candles, and sometimes of money, which we call in England, Soul-pence, with more ceremonie?. than I am able to declare. They have four Lents in the year, whereof our Lent is the greatest. Look, as we do begin on the Wednesday, so they do on the Monday l)efore, and the week before that they call the Butter. week ; and in that week they eat nothing but butter and milk. Howbeit, I believe there be in no other country the like people for drunkenness. The next Lent is called Saint Peter's L'?"*, and beginneth always the Monday next after Trinit)- Sunday, and endeth on Saint Peter's even. If they should break that fast, their be- lief is, tliat they should not come in at Heaven gates. And when any of them die, they have a testimonial with them in the coffin, that when the soul cometh to Heaven gates it may deliver the same ♦o Siiint Peter, which declareth that the party is a true and holy Russian. The third Lent lieginneth fifteen days before the later Lady-day, an*^^ endeth on our Lady-even. The fourth Lent beginneth on Saint Martin's-day, and etj th on Christmas-even : which Lent is fasted for Saint Philip, Saint Peter, Saint N .;holas, and Saint Clement For they four be tlie principal and greatest saints in that countr}'. In these Lents Uiey eat neither butter, eggs, milk, nor cheese ; but they are very straitly kept \\ itli fish, cabbages, and roots. And out of their Lents they observe truly the Wednesdays and Fridays throughout the year ; and on the Saturday diey do eat flesh. Furthermore, they have a great number of religious men ; which are black monks, and they eat no flesh throughout the year, but fish, milk, and but- ter. By their order they should eat no fresh iish, and in their Lents they eat nothing but coleworts, cabbages, salt cucumliers, with other roots, as radish ami such like. Their drink is like our penny ale, and is called quass. They have service daily in their churches, and use to go to service two hours before day, and that is ended by day- light. At nine of the clock they go to mass : that ended, to dinner ; and after that to service again ; and then to supper : you shall understand that at every dinner and n TO THE XORTIIERN PAKTS OF IIUSSIA AN» .SIUF.RIA. 23 m; and ns: be- ll them- tongue, ;hurches re daily do read, nor no it down, eth, but but little pon me. ic creed, :y say it idments, brogated or none nd com- acrament 'hey pre- e church ;. They England, lave four 1 on the they call owbeit, I lext Lent r Trinit)- their be- hem die, Heaven is a true jady-day, -day, and ter, Saint saints in ;csc ; but ,ents they Saturday n; which and but- it nothing >uch hke. y in their 1 by day- after that inner and supper they have declared the exposition of the Gospel that day : but how they wrest and twme the Scn|»Hire and that together by re|X)rt it is wonderful. As for whoredom and drunkenness there be none such living ; and for extortion they be the most abominable under the sun. Now judge of their holiness. They have twice as much land as Uie duke himself hath : but yet he is reasonable exen with them, as thus : when they take briloes of any of the poor and simple, he hath it by an order ; when the abbot of any of their houses diedi, then the duke hath all his gwxls, moveable and immoveable ; so that the successor buyeth all at the duke's hands : and by this mean they be the best fermours the duke hath. Thus with their religion I make an end, trusting here- after to know it better. . „ . , . , To the right worshipful and my singular good uncle, Master Christopher FrotliinghiuTi, give these. Sir, read and correct ; For great is the defect. THE TESTIMONY OF M. HICHARD EDEN, IS HIS DECADE8, CONCERNINO THE DOOK FOLLOWIKO . And whereas (saith he) I have before made mention how Moscovy was in our time discovered by Richard Chancelor, in his voyage toward Cathay, by the direction and information of M. Sebastian Cabota, who long before had this secret in his mind ; I shall not need here to de? :;ribe that voyage, forasmuch as the same is largely and faith- fully written in the Latin tongue, by that learned young man Clement Adams, school- master to the queen's henshmen, as he received it at the mouth of the said Richard Chancelor. The new navigation and discovery qf the kingdom o/Moscovia, by the north-east, in the year 1553 .• enterprised by sir Hugh fFtfloiighby, Anight, and performed by Richard Chancelor, pilot-major of the voyage : written in Lctin by Clement Adams. At what time our merchants perceived the comnodities and wares of England to be in small request with the countries and people i«bout us, and near unto us, and that those merchandises which strangers in the time j\nd memory of our ancestors did ear- nesdy seek and desire were now neglected, and ihe price thereof abated, although by us carried to their own ports, and all foreign merchandises in great account, and their prices wonderfully raised ; certain grave citizens of London, and men of great wisdom, and careful for the good of their countrj', began to think with themselves, how this mischief might be remedied. Neither was a remedy (as it then appeared) wanting to their desires, for the avoiding of so great an inconvenience : for seeing that the weahh of tlie Spaniards and Portingales, by the discovery and search of new trades and coun- tries, was marvellously increased, supposing the same to be a course and mean for them also to obtain the like, they thereupon resolved upon a new and strange naviga- tion. And whereas at the same time one Sebastian Cabota, a man in those days very reno\vned, happened to be in London, they began first of all to deal and consult dili- gently with him, and after much speech and conference together, it was at last con- cluded that three ships should be prepared and furnished out, for the search and dis- covery of the northern part of the world, to open a way and passage to our men for travel to new and unknown kingdoms. 34 VOiAGl'.S Of Sm lILT.lt WUXOLT.imY AND OTFIERS. And whereas many things seemed necessary to be regarded m tliis so hard and difficult a matter, they first made choice of certain grave and wise persons in manner of a senate or company, which should lay their hcadj. together and give their judg- ments, and provide things requisite and profitable for all occasions : by this company it was thought expedient, that a certain sum of money should publicly be collected, to serve for the furnishing of so many ships. And lest any private man should be too much oppressed and charged, a course was taken, that every man willing to be of the society should disburse the portion of twenty and five )x)unds a-piece : so diat in short time, by this meims, the sum of six thousand pounds being gathered, the three ships were bought, the most part whereof they provided to be newly built and trimmed. But in this action, I know not whether I may more admire the care of the merchants, or the diligence of the shipwrights : for the merchants, they get very strong and well- seasoned planks for the building ; the shipwrights, they with daily travail, and their greatest skill, do fit them for the di:>i)atch of the ships : they calk them, pitch them, and among the rest they make one most staunch and firm, by an excellent and inge- nious invention. For they had heard that in certain parts of die ocean a kind of worms is bred, which many times pierceth and eateth through the strongest oak that is : and therefore, that the mariners and die rest to be employed in this voyage might be free and safe from this danger, they cover a piece of the keel of the ship with thin sheets of lead: and having thus built the ships, and furnished them with armour and artillery, then followed a second care no less troublesome and necessary than the for- mer, namely, the provision of victuals, which was to be made according to the time and length of the voyage. And whereas thej' afore determined to have the east part of the world siiiled unto, and j et that the sea towards the same was not open, except they kept the northern tract, whereas yet it was doubtful whether there were any pas- sage yea or no, they resolved to victual the ships for eighteen months ; which they did for this reason. For our men being to pass that huge and cold part of the world, they wisely foreseeing it, allow them six months victual to sail to the place, so much moTP to remain there if the extremity of the winter hindered their return, and so much more also for the time of their coming home. Now this provbion being made and carried aboard, with armour and munitbn of all sorts, sufficient captains and governors of so great an enterprise were as yet want- ing ; to which office and place, although many men (and some void of experience) offered themselves, yet one sir Hugh Willoughby, a most valiant genUeman, and well born, verj' earnestly requested to have that care -and charge committed unto him : of whom .before all others, lx)th by reason of his goodly personage (for he was of a tall stature) as also for his singular skill in the services of war, the company of the mer- chants made greatest accompt ; so that at the last they concluded, and made choice of him fjr the general of this voyage, and appointed to him the admiral, with authority and command over all the rest. And for the government of other ships, although divers men seemed willing, and made offers of themselves thereunto, yet by a com- mon consent one Richard Chancelor, a man of great estimation for many good parts of wit in him, was elected, in whom alone great hope for the performance of this business rested. This man was brought up bv one Master Henry Sydney, a noble young gentleman, and very much beloved of kmg Edward, who at this time coming to the place where the merchants were gathered together, began a very eloquent speech or oration, and spake to them after this manner following : TO Tiir. xoHTiiF.nN PAnrfirop kussia avd ainnniA. A5 lard and 1 manner pir judg- conipun} :ollccted. Id be too be of the t in short ree ships trimmed, crchants, and well* and their h them, md inge. I kind of oak that gc might with thin nour and n the for- > the time east part n, except any pas • hich they ;he world» so much I so much lunition of yet want« itperience) and well > him: of US of a tall f the mer- choice of I authority , although 3y a com- ;ood parts ice of this ', a noble le coming ent speech oj i ^m? " My very worshipful friends, I cannot but greatly commend your present godly and virtuous intention, in the serious enterprising (for the singular love you bear to your country) a matter, which ^I hope) will prove profitable for this nation, and honour- able to this our land. Which intention of yours we also of the nobility are rcadv to our power to help and further ; neither do we hold any thing so dear and precious unto us, which we will not willingly forego, and lay out in so commendable a cause. But principally I rejoice in myself, that I have nourished and maintained that wit, which is like by some means and in some measure to profit and steed you in this wor- thy action. But yet I would not have you ignorant of this one thing, that I do now part with Chancelor, not because I make little reckoning of the man, or that his main, tenance is burdcnous and chargeable unto me, but that you might conceive and un- dcrstand my good will and promptitude for the furtherance of this business, and that the authority and estimation which he deserveth may be given him. You know the man bv report, I by experience ; you by words, I by deeds ; you by speech and com- pany, but I, by the daily trial of his life, have a full and perfect knowledge of him. And you are also to remember, into how many perils for your sakes, and his countrj''s love, he is now to run : whereof it is requisite that we hie not unmindful, if it please God to send him good success. Wc commit a little money to the chance and hazard of fortune : he commits his life (a thing to a man of all things the most dear) to the raging sea, and the uncertainties of many dangers. We tihall here live and rest at home quietly with our friends, and acquaintance : but he in the mean time labouring to keep the ignorant and unruly mariners iri good order snd obedience, with how many cares shall he trouble and vex himself? with how many troubles shall he break himself? and how many disquictings shall he be forced to sustain ? We shall keep our own coasts and country : he shall seek strange and unknown kingdoms. He shall commit his safety to barbarous and cruel people, and shall hazard his life amongst the monstrous and terrible beasts of the sea. Wherefore, in respect of the greatness of the dangers, and the excellency of his charge, you are to favour and love the man thus depardng from us : and if it fall so happily out that he return again, it is your part and du^ also liberally to reward him." sn..- ;< •; r. - i - ?.. > After that this noble young gentleman had delivered this, ot some such like speech, much more eloquently than I can possibly report it, the company then present began one to look upon another, one to question and confci* with another : and some (to whom the virtue and sufficiency of the man was known) began secretly to rejoice with themselves ; and to coned' e a spjecial hope, that the man Avould prove in time very rare and excellent, and that his virtues, already appearing and shining to the world, would grow, to the great honour and advancement of this kingdom. Afler all tWs, the company growing to some silence, it seemed good to them that were of greatest gravity amongst them, to inquire, search, and seek what might be learned and known concerning the easteriy part or tract of the worki. For which cause two Tartarians, wluch were then of the king's stable, were sent for, and an interpreter ^vas gotten to be present, by whom they were demanded touching their country, and the manners of their nation. But they were able to answer nothing to the purpose ; being nideed more acqudnted (as one there merrily and openly said) to toss pots, than to learn the states and dispositions of people. But after much ado, and many things passed about this matter, they grew at last to this issue, to set down and appoint a time for the departure of the ships : because divers were of opinion, that a great part of the best time of the year was already spent, and if the delay grew longer, the way VOL. I. K so voYAC.r.a OF sir mc;ir wiu.otr.iiuY and oTiiF.n*, would be stopped and barred by the force of the ice, and the cold climate : and therefore it was thought best by the opinion of them ull, that by the tenth day of May, the captains and nuiriiiers should take shini)i\i ,, and depart from llatcliffe upon the ebbe, if it pleased God. They having saluted their acquaintance, one his wife, another his children, another his kinsfolks, and another his friends dearer than his kinsfolks, were present, and ready at die day apjwinted : and having weighed anchor, they departed with the turning of the water, and sailing easily, came first to Greenwich. The greater ships are towed down with lx)ats, and oars, and the mariners being ull apparelled in watehet or sky-coloured cloth, rowed amain, and made away with dili- Sence. And Ixiiig come near to Greenwich (where the court then lay) presently, on le news thereof, the couitiers came running out, and the common |K;onle flocked together, standing very thick upon the shore ; the privy council they looked out at the w indows of the court, and the rest ran up to the tops of the towers : the ships here- upon discharge their ordnance, and shoot off their pieces after the manner of war, and of die sea, insomuch that the tons of the hills sounded therewith, the vallies and the waters gave an echo, and the mariners they shouted in such sort that the sky rang again with the noise thereof. One stood in the poop of the ship, and by hb gesture bids farewell to his friends in the lx\st manner he could. Another walks upon the hatches, anoUier climbs the shrouds, another stands upon the main yard, and another in the top of the ship. To be short, it was a very triumph (after a sort) in all respects to the beholders. But (alas !) the good king Edward (in resjiect of whom, principally, all this was prepanxl) he only by reason of his sickness was absent from this shew, and not long after the departure of these ships, the lamentable and most sorrowful accident of his death followed. But to proceed in the matter. The ships going down with the tide, came at last to Woolwich, where they stayed and» cast anchor, with purpose to depart therehenee again as soon as the turning of the wa. ter and a better wind should draw them to set sail. After this they departed and came to Harwich, in which port they staid long, not without great loss and consuming of time : yet at the last with a good wind they hoisted up sail, and committed themselves to the sea, giving their last adieu to their native country, which they knew not whether they should ever return to see again or not. Many of them looked oftentimes back, and could not refrain from tears, considering into what hazards they were to iiill, and what uncertainties of the sea they were to make trial of. Amongst the rest, Richard Chancelor, the captain of the Edward Bonaventure, was not a little grieved >vith the fear of wanting victuals, part whereof was found to be corrupt and putrified at Harwich, and the hogsheads of wine also leaked, and were not staunch : his natural and fatherly affection also somewhat troubled him ; for he left behind him his two little sons, which were in the case of orphans if he sped not well ; the estate also of his company moved him to care, being in the former respects after a sort unhappy, and were to abide with himself every good or bad accident : but in the mean time, while his mind was thus tormented with the multiplicity of sor- rows and cares, after many days sailing, they kenned land afar off, whereunto the pilot directed the ships; and being come to it, they land, and find it to be Rost Isl:«nd, where they stayed certain days, and afterwards set sail again, and proceeding towards the north, they espied certain other islands, which were called the Cross-of- Islands. From which places when they were a little departed, sir Hugh Willoughby the general, a man of good foresight and providence in all his actions, erected and w TO THE XOIITIIERV I'AnTS OF RUSSIA AND SIIIEUIA 27. set out his fliifij, by which he called together the chiefest men of the other shins, that by the help and assistance of their counsels, the order of tin fjjovernment and tV con duction of the ships in the whole voyage might Ik- the lx.tter : who being come to- gether accordingly, thej- conclude and agree, that if any great tem|X!st should arise at any time, and happen to disperse and scatter them, every ship should endeavour hi> best to go to Wardliouse, a hawp or castle of some name in tlie kingdom of Norway, and that they that arrived Uierc ii^st iu safety should stay, and expect the coming of tlu rest. The very same day in the afternoon, about four of the clock, so great a tempest sud denly arose, and the seas were so outrageous, that the ships could not keep their Intended course, but some were per force driven one ^vay, and some another way, to their great peril and hazard : die general with his loudest voice cried out to Richard Chancelor, and earnestly rccjuested him not to go far from him ; but he neither would nor could keef» company with him, if he sailed still so fast : for the admiral was of better sail than hi> ship. But the said admiral (I know not by what means) bearing all his sails, was car- ried away with so great force and swiftJicss, that not long after he Wiis (juite out o< sight, and the third ship iilso with the same storm and like nigc was disjxrscd and lost us. The ship boat of the admiral (striking against the ship) was overwhelmed in the sight and view of the mariners of the Bonaventure . and as for them that are already returned and arrived, they know nodiing of Uie n;st of the ships wliat was become of them. But if it be so, that any miserable mishap have overtaken them, if the rage and fury of the sea have devoured those good men, or if as yet they live, and wander up and down in strange countries, I must needs say they \\'ere men worthy of better fortune, and if they be living, let us wish them safety and a good return : but if the cruelty of death hath taken hold of them, God send them a christian grave and sepulchre. Now Richard Chancelor, with his ship and company, being thus left alone, and be- come very pensive, heavy, and sorrowful, by Uiis dispersion of the fleet, he (accord- ing to the order before taken) shapeth his course for Wardliouse in Norway, there to expect and abide the arrival of the rest of the ships. And bemg come thither, and having staid there the space of seven days, imd looked in vain for their coming, he determined at length to proceed alone in the purposed voyage. And as he was pre- paring himself, to depart, it happened that he fell in company imd siieech with certain Scottishmcn ; who having understanding of his intention, and wishing well to his actions, be^n eamesdy to dissuade him from the further prosecution of the discovery, by amplifying the dangers which he was to fall into, iuid c.-nitted no reason that might serve to that purpose. But he holding nothing so ignominious and reproachful, as in* constancy and levity of mind, and persuading himself that a man of valour could not com- mit a more dishonourable part, than for fear of danger to avoid and slum great attempts, was nothing at all changed or discouraged with the speeches and words of the Scots, remaining stedfast and immutable in his first resolution; determining either to bring that to piiss which was intended, or else to die the death. And as for them which were with Miuster Chancelor in his ship, although they had great cause of discomfort by the loss of their company (whom the foresaid temiiest had separated from them) and were not a litde troubled with cogitations and perturbations of mind« in respect of their doubtful course ; yet notwitiistanding they were of suck 28 VOYACKS OF SIR llUfill WIM.Olf.llBV AND OTIIEUH, consent and agreement of mind with Muster Chiineclor, that they were resuluie, and yrepured, under his direction uiid government, tr) make jiroof and trial of all adven- tures, without all fear or mistrust of future clangers. Whieh constancy of mind in all the connxuiy did exceedingly increase their captain's carefulness ; for he Ixing swal- lowed up with like good will luid love towaixls them, Icarid, lest through any error of his, the safety of the company should Ik: endangtred. To conclude, when they saw Iheir desire iuid hope of the arrival of the rest of the ships to be every day more anil more frustrated, they provided to nea again, and Master Clumcelor held on !ii.> course towards that unknown part of the world, and sailed so far, that he came at last to the place whetv he found no night at all, but a continual light and brightness of the sun shining clearly upon the huge and mighty sea. And having the benefit of diis per- petual light for certain days, at the length it pleased God to bring them into a certain great bay, which was of one hundred miles or Uiercabouts over. Whereinto they entered, and somewhat far within it cast anchor, and looking every way about them, it liappened that they espied afar oft' a certain fisher boat, which Master Chancelor, accompanied with a few of his men, went towards, to commune with the fishermen that were in it, and to know of them what country it was, and what people, and of what manner of living they were : but they being amazed with the strange greatness of his ship (for in those parts before Uiat time they had never seen the like) began presently to avoid and to flee : but he still following them, at last overtook them, and being come to them, they (being in great fear, as men lialf-dead) prostrated Uicmselves before him, ottering to kiss his feet : but he (according to his great and singular cour- tesy) looked pleasantly upon them, comfortin}^ them by signs and gestures, refusing those duties and reverences of theirs, and takmg them up in all loving sort from the ground. And it is strange to consider how mucn favour afterwards in that place this humanity of his did purchase to himself. For they being dismissi d, spread by and by a report abroad of the arriv ' of a strange nation, of a singular gentleness and courtesy : whereupon Uie common people came together, offering to these new come guests victuals freely, and not refusing to traffic with them; except they had been bound by a certain religious use and custom not to buy any foreign commodities, without the knowledge jmd consent of the king. By this time our i.ieu had learned that this country was called Russia or Moscovy, and that Juan Vasiliwich (which was at that time their king's name) ruled and go- vemed far and mde in those places. And the barbarous Russes asked likewise of our men, whence diey were, and what they came for : whereunto answer vyas made, that they were Englishmen sent Into those coasts, from the most excellent king Edward the Sixth, having from him in commandment, certain things to deUver to their king, and seeking nothing else but his amity and friendship, and traffic with his people, whereby they doubted not, but that great commodity and profit would grow to the subjects of both kingdoms. The tmrbarians heard these things very gladly, and promised their aid and furtherance to acquaint their king out of hand with so lionest and a reasonable request. In the mean time Master Chancelor entreated victuals for his money of the governor of that place (who together with others came aboard him) and required hostages of them likewise for the more assurance of safety to himself and his company. To whom the governors answered, that they knew not in that case the will of their king, but yet were willing in such things as they might lawfully do to pleasure him : which was as Ihen to affbnl hiro the benefit of victuals. ■ , .... , . .. TO IIU. NoHlllKIIV I'AK'IM 01' R( SSIA .\NI) SinF.IUA. 29 Now while these thiiijj^* wen* i\ tloinp;, they M'crclly sent u mcssciigtr unto the em- peror, to certify him of the arrival of a stranp^e nation, uiul withal to know his pleasure concerninp; them. Which messa(i;e was very weleome imto him, insoniueh that volun- tarily lie invited them to come to liis eourt. Hut if by reason of the tedionsness of so !onf{ a journey, they thou|;ht it not best so to do, then he granted liberty to his stibjects to b ufif lin, anil to traffic with them : and further promised, that if it would please them to come to him, he himself woidd Inarthe uhole charges of post horses. In the mean- time the governors of the place deferred the matter from day to day, pretending divei excuses, and sciyingone while, that the consent of all the governors, and another while, tluit the great and weighty affairs of the kingdom eomiH lied them to defer their answer : and this they did of purpose, so long to protract the tmie, until the messenger (sent be- fore to the king) did return with relation of his will and pleasure. But Master Chancelor (seeing himself hekl in this susiK'rvse with long and vain ex- pectation, and thinking that of intention to delude him they ix)sted the matter off so often) was very instant with them to perform their promise ; which if they woukl nol do, he told them that he would depart, and jjroceed in his voyage. So that the Mosco- vites (although as yet they knew not the mind of their king) yet fearing the departure indeed of our men, who had such wares and commodities as they greatly desired, they at last resolved to furnish our people with all things necessary, and conduct them by land to the presence of their king. And so Master Chancelor began his journey, which was very long, and most tmublesome, wherein he hiul the use of certam sleds, which in that country arc very common, for they arc carried themselves upon sleds, and all their carriages arc in the same sort, the people almost not knowing any other manner of carriage, the cause whereof is the pvrreding hiydness of the ground congealed in the >\uiier ihuc liv lUr force of the cold, which in those places is very extn;me and horrible, whereof herealtei wc will say something. But now they having passed the greater part of thrir jnnniey, met at last with the sleddcman (of whom 1 spake before) sent to the king secretly from the justices or go- vemors, who by some ill hap had lost his Avay, and had gone to the sea side, which is near to the country of the Tartars, thinking there to have found our ship. But having long erred and Wiuidered out of his way, at the last, in his direct return, he met (as he was coming) our captiiin on the way. To whom he by and by delivered the emperor's letters, which were written to him with all courtesy and in the most loving manner that eould be : wherein express commiindmcnt was given, that post horses should tie gotten for him and the rest of his company without any money. Which thing was of all the Rus'ics in the rest of their joumey so willinjjly done, that they lx?gan to quarrel, yea, and to fni:ht also, in striving and contending which of them should put their post horses to the sleddc : so that after much ado and great pains taken in this long and weary joumey, (for ihey had travelled very near fifteen hundred miles) Master Chancelor came at last to Mosco, the chief city of the kingdom, and the seat of the king: of which city, and of the emperor himself, and of the principal cities of Moscovy, we will speak immedi- ately more at large in this discourse. OP M0SC0\'y, WHICH IS ALSO CALLED RUSSIA. Moscow, „l.ich hath the name also of Russia the White, is a very large and spacious country, every way bounded with divers nations. Towiutls the south and the east, it is compassed with Tartaria : the northern side of it strctcheth to the Scythian ocean : md 'y 'I .10 viiVAriKs or ttm iiii.a \\u.i.or(.iiHv ^vuulll»;u», wmn the west part borclrr the Liippians, a rude niu! savaj^t* nation, living in wootT*, \vn()!*c langiia^;!! is not liiiown to any other people : next unto these, more towards tht south, ih Swccin, then Finlsuidia, then Livonia, and last of all Lituania. This country oF MoHCOvy hath also very many and ^'Ut rivcrn in it, and is miirish ground in man) places : and as for the rivers, the greatest and most famous amongst all the rest, is that, which the HuHses in their own tongue call Volga ; but others know it by the name of Rha. Next inito it in fame is Tanais, which they call Don, and the third Boristhenes, which at this day Uicy call Ne|x:r. Two of these, to wit, Rha and BorisilK-nes, issuing both out of one fountain, run ver)' far through the land : Rha receiving many other pleasant rivers int(j it, ami running from the very head or spring of it towards the east, Hfter many crooked turnings iuid windings, dischargeth itself, and all the other waters and rivers that fall into it by divers passages, into the Caspian Sea. I'anais, springing fmm u fountain of great name in those parts, and growing great neiu* to his head, sorcads itself at length very largely, and makes a great lake : and then growing narrow again, doth so run for certain miles, until it fiilletli itito another lake, which they call Juan: and therehence fetching a very crooked course, comes very near to the river V^olga : but disdaining as it were the company of any other river, doth thea" turn itself agiiin from Volga, and riuis towards the south, and falls at last into the lake of Mtcotis. Boristhenes, which comes from the same head that Rha doth {as we said be- fore) carrieth both itself, and other waters that are near unto it, towards the South, not refusing the mixture of other small rivers ; and running by many great and large countries falls at last into Pontus Euxinus. Besides these rivers, are also in Moscovy certain lakes and pools, the lakes breed fish by the celestial influence : and amongst them all, the chiefest and most principal is rMoA Rralozera, which is very famous uy Rason of a very strong town built in it, wherein the kings of Muai,ovy icscivc and repose their treasure in all time of war and danger. Touching the Rhiplie.in mnnntains, whereupon the snow lieth continually, and where hence in times past it was thought that Tiuiais the river did spring, and that the rest of the wonders of nature, which the Grecians feigned and inventecl of old, were there to be seen : our men which lately came from thence, neither siiw them nor yet have brought home any perfect relation of them, although they rcmained there for the space of thii:e months, and had gotten in that time some intelligence of the language of Moscovy. The whole country is plain and champion, and few hills in it . and towards the north hath very large and spacious woods, wherein is great store of fir trees, a wood very necesSiir}-, and fit for the building of houses : there are also wild beasts bred in those woods, us bufles, bears, and black wolves, and another kind of Ixast imknown to us, but called by tliem Rossomakka ; and the nature of the same is \'erj' rare and wonderful : for when it is great witli young, and ready to bring forth, it \cekcth out some niurow place between two stakes, and so going through them, pressetli itself, and by that means is eased of her burden, which otherwise could not be done. They hunt their bufTes for the most part a horseback, but their bears afoot, with wooden lorks. 'J'he north parts of the country arc reported to be so cold, that the very ice or water which distilleth out of the moist wood which they lay upon the fire is presently congealed and frozen : the diversity groweth suddenly to be so great, that in one and the self same firebrimd a man shall see both fire and ice. When the winter dolh once begin there, it doth still more and more increase by a perpetuity of cold : neither doth that cold slack, until the force of the sun beams doth dissolve the cold, and make glad tlic earthy returning to it again. Our marinerb which we left in the ship in K. y TO Tiir. Nontmiiv pmith or ri>ms am> *inr.Hi\, 31 th^ mean time to kcTp it, in their Q^l)ill^ up only tiom tluir cahiiis to the hatclirn, hiid thtir hrcuth oftciitiiiKs so Hiulilnil\ taken auay, that the v often llll down as min very near (lead, so ^reat is the sharpness of that cold cliinulc : but its fur the MiUth |Mirtti ul' tlic country, they arc v)me\vhat mnn- teni|K-ntte. Th or MOHLO, TIIK IMIF.I' (.ITV OF THK Kt\I.IM)\|, AM) OK 1 MK KMIM'-KOU nir.llKOF It rcmaineth that a larj^r discourHC Ix: made of Moseo, the principal city oC that coun tfy, and of the prince also, as IxI'orc we have pix)iniM d. The empire and j^ovenuiient of the kin^; is very large, and his wealth ut this tinu exceediiiff ((reat. And Ixcause the city of MoHco is the chicfest of all the rest, it setnit th ot itself to challen^* the first [)luce in this discourse. Our men nay, that in bif^u ss it is as p;reut as the city of London with the suburbs Uiercof. There arc many and ^'n■at buildings in it, but for Ixiuuly and fuirnes-H nothing comnarable to oura. There are many towns and villages also, but built out of order, anu with no h.mdsomcnesH : their streets and wajs are not paved with stone as ours aa* : the walls (if their houses iire of wo'xl : the rouh for the most pari are covered with shingle boards. There is hard by the city a very fair castle, strong, and furnished with artillery, whereunto the city is joined directly towards the north wita a brick uall : the walls also of the castle arc built with brick, and are in breadth or thickness eighteen feet. This castle hath on the one side a dry ditch, on the other side the river Moscua, whercliy it is made almost inexpugnable. The same Moscua trend- ing towards tlie east doth admit info if the ronii)uiiy nl the river Occa. In the castle aforesaid, there aiv in number nine churches, or chaples, not alto- gether unhandsome, which are used and kept by certain religious men, over whom tliere is, after a sort, a patriarch or governor, and with him other reverend fathers, all which for the greater part dwell within the cabtle. As fcr Uie king's court and palace, it is not of the neatest, only in form it is four square, and of low building, much sur- passed and excelled by the beauty and elegance of the houses of the kings of Kngland. The windows are very narrowly built, and some of them by glass, some other by lattices, admit the light : and whereas the palaces of our princes are decked and adorned with hangings of cloth of gold, there is none such there : they build and join to all their walls benches, and that not only in the court of the emperor, but in all private men's houses. Now after that they had remained about twelve days in the city, there was then a mes- senger sent unto them, to bring them to the king's house : and they being after a sort wearied with their long stay, were very ready and willing so to do : and being entered widun the gates of the court, there sat a very honounible company of courtiers, to the number of one hundred, all apparelled in cloth of gold, down to their ancles : and there hence being conducted into the chamljer of presence, our men began to wonder at the majesty of the emperor : his seat was aloft, in a very royal throne, having on his head a diadem, or crown of gold, apparelled with a robe all of goldsmith's work, and in, his hand he held a sceptre garnished and beset with precious stones : and t)csides all other notes and appearances of honour, there was a majesty in his countenance pro- portionabie with the excellency of his estate : on ihe one side of him stood his chief secretary, on the other side the great commander of silence, both of them arrayed also in cloth of gold ; and then there sat die council of one hundred and fifty in number, all in like sort arrayed, and of great state. This so honourable an assembly, so great a majesty of the emperor, and of the place, might very well have amazed our men, and •l I i '» 33 voYAoi'.!! or •tilt iiroii utUiOrcimv and oTitrnii, Iwvc dnnhcd them out of counttn;iiH »• ; lint notwitiiVandiiiff Muster Clianrdor, iK'lnp; therewithal nothing; diimiiycd, siihitcd, luid did hin dutv to tnc i mtK-ror, after thf man- ner of Knulanfl, and withal dLlivcnd unto him ilu- Icitert of our kinp;, Kdwnrd ihr Sixth. The in)|K:ror haviiin; token, and n*ad the IcttifH, Ix'^an a little to (|iH-itioiiuith thc-m, and to ask ihcm of the urlfan* of onr king: whcn.'unto our men answcnd him directly, aiul in fiw uordi: hereupon our men pasented something t(« the em|Kn>r, by the chief secretary, whici>, at the delivery of it, put oft' his hat, biing afore all the time eo\en(I : and ho the emperor having invited then\ to dinner, dismissed them from Itis |)rev me : and going into the chamlKT of him that was master of the re(|U<'sts to the empen)r, aiul having staid there the space of two hours, at the last the messenger comelh, and calleth them to dinner : they go, and iK'ing coixhicted into the golden court (for so they call it, ahhough not very fair) they find the emperor sitting upon nil high and stately seat, apparelled with a rohe of silver, and with another diailem on his head : our men tx:ing placed over against him, sit down : in the midst of the room sto no room d in cloth 1 servitors arc in likr sort terved with bread iWxii ilu- eiiineror, an the rent of the p;uenti. Laht of all, dinner iK-iiif; ended, and candles bion^fit m (for by tliit time iii^ht w.ih come) the emperor ealleth all his muils and iiobU nun b\ ihiir nanus, in siu:h sort, that it neemsi miraeuloUH that a prince, otherwise oeciipied in great matteni of estate, should so well rememlnr so many and sundry particular iiaineH. 'I'lu: Kiisseit told our men, that the reason thereof, as also of the iKstowing of bread in that in inner, was to the end that the empc mr might keep the knowledge f)f his own household : luid wittutl, that hucIi ;ts are under hid diitplciuiurc might by tliis mcan^ Ix: known, Ol' TIIR DWeil'I.INK OP WAR A MONO TIIR IltTNJIKII. Whensoever the injuries of their neighbours do call the king forth to battle, he never armeth a less numlK'r avainst the enemy than three liuiidred thousand soldiers, one hundred thousiuid whereol he carrieth out into the field with him, and leaveth the reM in garrison in some fit places, for the Initter safety of his empire. He ptesseth no husbaimman nor merchant ; for the country is so populous, that these being left at home, the } outh of the realm is sulHeient for all his wars. As many as go out to wariiuv do provide all things of their own cost : they fight not on fool, but altogether on horse, back : their ;irmour is u coat of mail and a lu-lnut : the c;oat(jf mail is gilded, or else adorned with silk, aliliough it pvrtaiii to a conunon soldier : they have a great pride in shewing their weal !< . they I'.ie bows and.iiTows, astlie Turks do : they carry lances also into the field. They ride with a short siirrup, after the manner of the Turks. They are a kind of jK-ople most sparii^r in diet, and most patient in extreraUy of col*'., above all others ; for when tlie ground Is covered with snow, and is grown terrible and hard with tlie frost, thli Husse hangs up his mantle, or soldier's coat, against that part from whence the wind and snow drives, and so making a little firc, licth down with his back towards the weather : this mantle of his serves him for his bed, wall, house and all : his drink is cold water of the river, mingled with oatmeal, and this is all his good cheer, and he thinketh himself well and daintily fed therewith, and so sitteth down by his iire, and uiK)n the hard ground roasteth as it were his w eiuy sides thus daintily stuffed ; th« hard ground is his feat)ier.bed, and some block or stone his pillow : and as for his norse, he is as it were a chamber fellow with his master, faring both alike. How justly may this barbarous and rude Russe condemn the daintiness and niceness of our capt lins, who, living in a soil and air much more tem[jerate, yet commonly use furred bcx)ts and clc»aks ! But thus much of the furniture of their common soldiers. But those that are of higher degrees come into the field a little better provided. As for the furniture of the emperor himself, it is then above all other times most notable. The coverings of his tent, for the most part, lu-e all of gold, adorned with stones of great price, and with the curious workmanship of plumasiers. As often as they are to ihlimish with the enemy, they go forth without any order at iill : they make no wings, nor military divisions of their jnen, as we do, but lying for the most part in ambush, do suddenly set upon the enemy. Their horses can well abstain two whole days from any meat : they feed upon the barks of trees, and the most tender branches, in all the time of war. And this scant and mi- serable inrmner of living both the horse and his master can well endure, sometimes for the spac; of two months, lusty and in good state of bodj-. If any man behave himself valianily in the field, to the contentation of the emperor, he bestoweth upon him in re- comijense of bis service some farm, or so much ground as he and his vnuy live upon, which notwithstanding after his death returneth again to the emperor, il' he die without ▼OL. I. F 1 04 VOYAGES OP SIR UVV.U WILLOUGIIBY AND OTIlFJtS, i i a male issue. For although his daughters be never sc many, yet no part of that inherit- ance comes to them, except peradventure the emperor of his goodness give some por- tion of the land amongst tliem, toIx;sto\v them vithal. As for the man, whosoever he be, that is in this sort rewarded by the emperor's liberality, he is bound in a great sum to maintain so many soldiers for the war when nted shall require, as that land, in the opinion of the emperor, is able to maintain. And all those to whom any land falls by- inheritance are in no better condition , for if they die without any male issue, all their lands fall into the hands of the emperor. And moreover, if there be any rich man amongst them, who in his own |x.'rson is unfit for the wars, and yet hath such wealth, that thereby many noblemen and warriors might be maintained, if any of the courtiers present his name to the emperor, the luihappy man is by and by sent for, and in that instant deprived of all his riches, which with gi-eat pains and trav;.il all his lifetime he hath flatten together ; except perhaps stjme small (Xirtion thereof be left him, to main- tain his wife, children, and family. But all this is done of all the people so willingly at the emperor's commandment, that a man would think tht'y rather make restitution of other men's goods, than give that which is their own to other men. Now the em • peror having taken these goods into his hands, bestoweth them among his courtiers according to their deserts ; and the oftf.ner that a man is sent to the wars, the more favour he thinketh is borne to him by the emperor, althcighhe go upon his own ehaige, as I said before ; so great is the obedience cf all men gfierally to their prince. OF THK AMBASSADORS OF TMK F,>lPKROIl OK MOSCOW. The Moscovite, with no less pomp and magnificence than that which we have spoken of, sends his ambassadors to foreign princes in the ;. (Fairs of estate. For while our men were abiding in the city of Mosco, there were two ambassadors sent to the king of Poland, accompanied with five hundred notable horses, and the greater part of the men were arrayed in cloth of gold, iuid of silk, and the worst apparel was of garments of blue coloni , to speak nothing of the trappings of the horses, which were adorned with gold a'ld silver, and very curiously embroidered : they had also with them one hundred . I'hite and fair spare horses, to use them at such times as any weariness came upon them. hjit now the time re(juireth me to speak briefly of other cities of the Moscovitcs, and of the wares and commodities that the country yieldeth. NOVOr.ORODE. Next unto Mosco, the city of Novogorode ib reputed the chiefest of Russia ; for al- though it be in majesty inferior to it, yet in greatness it goeth beyond it. It is the chiefest and greatest mart town of idl Moscovy : and iJbeit the emperor's seat is not there, but at Mosco, yet the commodiousness of the river, falling into .that gulf which is called Sinus Finnicus, whereby it is weil frequented by merchants, makes it more famous than Mosco itself. This to\vn excels all the rest in the commodities of flax and hemp : it yields also hides, honey, and wax. The Flemings there sometimes h;>d a hous<' of mer- chandise, but by reason that the y used the like ill-dealing there, which they did with us, they lost their privileges, a res''.tution whereof thev earnestly sued for at the time that our men were there. But those Flemings hearing of the arrival of our men in those parts, v/rote their letters to the emjieror against them, accusing them for pirates and rovers, wishing h'«m to detain and imprison them. Which things when they were known r £ our men, they conceived fear that they should never have returned home. But the erapercr (• .l--"«fe^ hat inherit- somt' por- losoevcr he great sum unci, in the incl falls by Lit', all their y rich man iich wealth, le courtiers anil in that lifetime he m, to main- so willingly ; restitution bw the em • lis courtiers i, the more )wii chiuge, cc. lave spoken lile o\ir men g of Poland, e men were ;nts of blue d with gold mc hundred upon them, vites, and of ssia; for al- > the chiefest It there, but ich is called famous thar. id hemp : it )usr* of mer- did with us, time that our those parts, and rovers, Lnown riour the ernperci- TO THE \OnTllF.RN TARTS OF RUSSIA ANH SIRRRIA. 35 believing rather the king's letters, which our men brought, than the lying and false sug. gtstions of the Flemings, used no ill inireaty towards them. VKRASLaVB. Yeraslave also is a town of some good fame, for the commodities of hides, tallow, and ( om, which it yields 'ii great abundance. Cakes of wax are there also to be sold, although other places have greater store. This Yeraslave is distant from Mosco about two hundred miles; ar.ci betwixt them are many populous villages. Their fields yield such store of corn, th;refer it to tlie magistrate. The plaintiiF craveth of the stud magistrate tliat 3G VOYAGES OP SIR IIUOII WILLOUGHBY AND OTHF^RS, he may have leave to enter law against his adversary ; and having obtained it, the officer fctchcth the defendant, and beateth him on the legs till he bring forth a surety for him ; but if he be not of such credit as to procure a surety, then are his hands by an officer tied to his neck, and he is beaten all the way till he come before the judge. The judge then asketh him (as for example in the matter of debt) whether he oweth any thing to the plaintiff. If he denies it, then saith the Judge, how canst thou deny it ? the defendant answereth, by an oath : thereupon the officer is commanded to cease from beating of him, until the matter be further tried. They have no lawyers, but every man ia hb own advocate, and both the complaint of the accuser, and the answer of the defendant, are in manner of petition delivered to the emperor, intreating justice at his hands. The emperor himself heareth every great controversy, and upon the hearing of it giveth judgment, and ihat with great equity, which I take to be a thing worthy of special com- mendation in the n.ijesty of a prince. But although he do this with a good purpose of mind, yet the corrupt magistrates do wonderfully pervert the same ; but if the *;mperor take them in any fault, he doth punish them most severely. Now at the last wh'"i each party hath defended hi; cause with his best reasons, the judge demandeth o' ' "^ cr whether he hath any more to say for himself; he answereth, that he will try fac matter in fight by his champion, or else intreateth that in fight betwixt themselv a the matter may be ended ; which being granted, they both fight it out : or if both of them, c" either of them, seem unfit for that kind of trial, then they have public champions to be . jrcd, which live by ending of quarrels. These champions are armed with iron axes and spears, and fight on foot, and he whose champion is overcome is by and by taken and imprisoned, and terribly handled, until he agreeth with his adversary. But if either of them be of any good o'illing and degree, and do challenge one anodier to fight, the judge grantech it ; in which case they may not use public champions : and he that is of any good birth doth contemn the other, if he be basely bom, and will not fight with him. If a poor man happen to grow in debt, his creditor takes him and maketh him pay the debt, in working either to himself, or to some other man, whose wages he taketh up. And there are some an.ong them that use willingly to make themselves, their wives, and children, bond-slaves unto rich men, to have a little money at the first into their hiuids, and so for ever after content themselves with meat and chink ; so little accompC do they make of liberty. OF PUNISHMENTS UPON THIEVES. If any man be taken upon committing of dieft, he is imprisoned and often beaten, but not hanged for the first offence, as the manner is with us ; and this they call the law of mercy. He that ofFendeth the second time hath his nose cut off, and is burned in the forehead with a hot iron. The third time he is hanged. There are many cut- purses among them ; and if the rigour of the prince did not cut them cfT, they could not be avoided. OF THEIR RELIGION. / * 'I They maintain the opinions of the Greek church : they suffer no graven images oi saints in their churches, but their pictures painted in tables they have in great abund- ance, which they do adore and offer unto, and bum wax candles before them, and cast holy wster upon them without other honour. They say that ou/ imrges which are set up in churches and carved have no divinity in them. In their private hoises diey liave TO TFIF. XOUTIIF.nN PAIITS OP IIUSSIA A\F) SmRRIA. 3: the officer for him ; an officer rhe judge y thing to defendant beating of [nan xa his defendant, his hands. )f it giveth ecial com- jurpose of emperor wh' n each '-"? n. '.xr iac matter the matter f them, c" >ions to be iron axes i by taken lut if either fight, the le that is of fight with laketh him s he taketh heir wives, t into their le accompC ten beaten, ey call the d is burned many cut- ihty could k images oi reat abund> n, and cast lich are set js they have images for their household saints, and for the most part they iirc put in the daikcst place of the house : he that comes into his neighbour's house doth first suluic hi:> siiiius, although he sec them not. If any form or stool stand in his way, he olkiitinKs bcatcth his brow upon the sjime, and often ducking down with his head and body, wt^rahinpcth the chief image. The habit and attire of the priests and of the laymen doth nothing at all differ. As for marriage, it is forbidden to no man, only this is received and lukl amongst them for a rule and custom, tliat if u priest' i wife doth die, he may not murry again, nor take a second wife; and there ore they of secular priests, as they call them, are made monks, to whom then chastity for ever is commanded. Their divine service is all done and said in their own language, that every man may understand it : they re- ceive the Lord's supper with leavened bread, and after the consecration they carry it about the church in a saucer, and prohibit no man from receiving and taking of it that is willing so to do. They use both the Old and the New Testament, and read both in their own language, but so confusedly, that they themselves that do read understand not what themselves do say ; and while any part of either Testament is read, there is liberty given by custom to prattle, talk, and make a noise : but in the time of the rest of the service they use very great silence and reverence, and behave themselves very motlcstlj', and in good sort. As touching the Lord's Prayer, the tenth man amongst them knows it not ; and for the articles of our fiuth, and the ten commandments, no man, or at the least very few of them, do either know them or can say them ; their opinion is, that such secret and holy things as they are should not rashly and imprudently be com- municated with the common people. They hold for a maxim amongst them, that the old law and the commandments also are abolished by the death and blood of Christ : all studies and letters of humanity they utterly refuse : concerning the Latin, Greek, and Hebrew tongues, they are altogether ignorant in them. Every year they celebrate four several fasts, which they call according to the names of the sdnts. The first begins with them at the time that our Lent begins; the second is called amongst them the fast of St. Peter ; the third is taken from the day of the Virgin Mary ; and the fourth and last begins upon St. Philip's day. But as we begin our Lent upon Wednesday, so they begin th<'irs upon the Sunday. Upon the Saturday they eat flesh. Whensoever any of those fasting feasts do d/aw near, look what week doth immediatelv go before them, the same week they live altogether ujwn white meats ; and in their common language they call those weeks the fast of butter. In the time of their fasts, the neighbours everywhere go from one to another, and visit one another, and kiss one juiother with kisses of peace, in token of their mutual love and christian concord ; and then also they do more often than at any other time go to the holy communion. When seven days are past from the be^nning of the fast, then they do often either go to their churches, or keep themselves at home and use often prayer ; and for that sevennight they eat nothing but herbs : but after that seven- night's fast is once past, then they return to their old intemperance of drinking, for they are notable tosspots. As for the keeping of their fasting daj'S, they do it very straightly ; neither do they eat any thing besides herbs and sah fish as long as those fasting days do endure ; but upon every Wednesday and Friday in every week through- out the year they fast. There are very many monasteries of the order of St. Benedict amongst them, to which many great livings for their maintenance do belong ; for the friars and the monks do at the least possess the third part of the livings througnout the whole Moscovite em- pire. To those m(xiks that are of this order tl^re is amongst them a perpetual prohi- 38 A OYAGES OP Sm IUtOTI WIM.OtTfJiinY AVD OTHF.nS, • I hition that they may eat no flesh, and therefore their meat is onl^ salt fish, milk, and but- ter ; neither is it pennitted them by the laws and customs of their nlif^on to eat any fresh fish at all ; and at those four Histing times whereof we spake before, they eat no fish at all, only they live with herbs :ind eucumbers, whi<;h they do eontinuiilly for that pur- pose cause and take order to grow and spring, for their use and diet. As for tiieir drink, it is very weak and small. For the discharge of theif office, they do every day say service, and that eiu^ly in the morning before day ; and they do in such sort, and with such obser\'ation, begin ihcir service, that they will be sure to make an end of it before day ; and about nine of the clock in the morning they celebrate the communion. When they have so done, they go to dinner, and after dinner they go again to service, and the like i ' c after biijjpcr ; and in the mean time, while they are at ditiner, there is some ex)X)sition f ' pretation of the gospel used. Whensoever any abbot o. monastery dieth, the emperor taketh all his household stuff, beasts, flocks of sheep, g-.ij, silver, and all that he hath ; or else he that is to succeed him in his place and dignity doth redeem all those things, and buyeth them of the em- peror for money. Th(;ir churches are built of timber, and the towers of their churches, for the most part, are covered ^vith shingle boards. At the doors of their churches they usually iniild some entrance or porch, as we do; and in their church yards they erect a certain hous« of wood, ;vlierein they set up their bells, wherein sometimes they have but one, in some two, and in some also three. There is one use and custom amongst them which is strange and rare, but yet it is very ridiculous, and that is this : when any man dieth amongst them, they take the dead body and put it in a coffin or chest, and in the hand of the corpse they put a little scrawl, and in the same there are these words written, that the same man died a Russe of Russes, having received the faith, and died in the same. This writing or 'etter, they say, they send to St. Peter, who receiving it (as they affirm) reads it, and by and by admits him into heaven, and that his glory and place is higher and greater than the glory of the christians of the Latin church, reputing themselves to be followers of a more sincere faith and religion than they : they hold opinion that wc are but half christians, ancT themselves only to be the true and perfect church. These are the foolish and childish dotages of such ignorant barbarians. OF THE MOSCOVITES THAT ARE IDOLATERS, DWELLING NEAR TO TARTARIA, There is a certain part of Moscovy, bordering upon the countries of the Tartars, wherein those Moscovites that dwell are very great idolaters. They have CMie famous idol amongst them, which they call the golden old wife ; and they have a custom that whensoever any plague or any calamity doth afflict the country, as hunger, war, or such like, then they go to consult with their idol, which they do after this manner : they fall down prostrate before the idol, and pray unto it^ and put in the presence of the same a cymbal ; and about the same certain persons stand, which are chosen amongst them by lot ; upon their cymbal they place a silver toad, and sound the cymbal, and to whom- soever of those lotted persons that toad goeth, he is taken, and by and by slain ; and im- mediately, I know not by what illusions of the devil or idol, he is again restored to life, and then doth reveal and deliver the causes of the present calamity. And by this means kno\ving how to pacify the idol, they are delivr i«d from the imminent danger. TO THE NOnTlfERN PARTS OF RUSSfA AND SinElH.i. 39 i, and but- t any i'lcsh t no fish ut thiit pur- )fficc, they do in such J mukc an lebrate the y go again I at dinner, household to succeed of the em- ir the most ey usually :t a certain c but one, ut yet it is ce the dead ittle scrawl, : of Russes, y say, they admits him lory of the ore sincere istians, and md childish OF THE FORM OF THEIR PRIVATE HOUSES. AND OF THE APPAREL OF THE PEOPLE. The common houses of the country are every where built of beams of fir-tree ; the lower earns do so receive the round hollowness of the uppermost, that by the means ol thi- building thereupon, they resist and exjicl all winds that blow ; and where the timber is joined together, there they stop the chinks with moss. The form and fashion of their houses in all places is four square, with strait and narrow windows, whereby vvith a transparent casement, made or covered with skin like to parchment, they receive die light. The roofs of their houses are made of boards covered without with the bark of trees ; within their houses they have benches or griczes hard by their walls, which com- monly they sleep on, for the common people know not the use of beds ; they have stoves wherein m the morning they make a fire, and the same fire doth eiUier mode- rately warm, or mnke very hot the whole house. The apparel of the people for the most part is made of wool ; their caps are peaked like unto a tike or diamond, broad beneath, and sharp upward. In the manner of mak- ing whereof there is a sign and representation of nobility ; for the loftier or higher their caps are, the greater is their birth supposed to be, and the greater reverence is given them by the common people. THE CONCLUSION. TO QUF.F.N MARY. These are the things, most excellent queen, which your subjects newly returned from Russia have brought home concerning the state of that country ; wherefore, if your majesty shall be tavourable, and grant a continuance of the travel, there is no doubt but that the honour and renown of your name will be spread amongst those nations, whereunto three only noble personages from the very creation have had access, to whom no man hath been comparable. THE COPY OF THE DUKE OF MOSCOVY AND EMPEROR OF RUSSIA HIS LETTERS SENT TO KING EDWARD THE SIXTH. BY THE HANDS OF RICHARD CHANCELOR 'ARIA. he Tartars, one famous custom that i^ar, or such r : they fail ' the same a ^st them by id to whom- n ; and im- tored to life, Y this means ;er. THE almighty power ofGod, and the incomprehensible Holy Trinity, rightful Christian belief, t.c. We, great duke Juan Vasilivich, by the grace of God, great lord and emperor of all Russia, greatdukeof Volodemer, Mosco, and Novograd, king of Kazan, king of Astracan, lord of Plesco, and great duke of Smolensko, of Twerria, Joughoria, Permia, Vadska, Bulghoria, ai«l others, lord and great duke of Novograd in the low country, of Chemigo, Rezan, Polotskoy, Ro?tove, Yaruslaveley, Bealozera, Liefland, Oudoria, Obdoria, and Condenza, commander of alt Siberia, and of the north parts, and lord of many other countries, greeting. Before all, right, great, and worth) of honour, Edward king of England, &c. according to our most hearty and good zeal, with good intent and friendly desire, and according to our holy christian faith, and great governance, and being in the light of great understanding, our answer by this our ho- nourable writing unto your kingly governance, at the request of your faithful servant, Richaixl Chancelor, with his company, as diey shall let you wisely know, is this. In the strength of the twentieth year of our governance, be it known, that at our sea coasts arrived a sdiip widi one Richard and his company, and s«ud Uiat he was desirous to come T"- 40 VOYAOES OF SIR MiTr.H Wnj.OUO!IDY AND OTIIRRS, into our dominions, and according to his request hath seen our majesty and our eyes ; and hath declared unto us your majesty's desire, as that we should grant unto your sub- jects to go and come, and in our dominions, and among our subjects, to frequent free marts with all sorts of merchandises, and upon the same to have wares for their return ; and they have also delivered us your letters, which declare the same request. And here- upon we have given order, that wheresoever your faithful servant Hugh Willoughby land or touch I ' our dominions, to be well entertained, who as yet is not arrived, as your servant Richard can declare. And we, with christian belief and faithfulness, and according to your honourable request, and my honourable commandment, will not leave it undone ; and are further- more willing that you send unto us your ships and vessels, when and as often as they may have passage, with good assurances on our part to see them harmless. And if you send one of your majesty's coui\sel to treat with us, whereby your country merchants may, with all kind of wares, and where they will, make their market in our dominions, they shall have their free mart, with all free liberties through my whole dominions, with all kinds of wares, to come and go at their pleasure, without any let, damage, or impediment, according to tliis our letter, our word, and our seal, which we have com- manded to be undersealed. Written in our dominion, in our city, and our palace in the castle of Mosco, in the year 7060, the second month of Febniaiy. This letter was written in the Moscovian tongue, in letters much like to the Greek letters, very fair written in paper, with a broad seal hanging at the same, sealed in paper upon wax. This seal was much like the broad seal of England, having on the one side the image of a man on horseback, in complete harness, fighting with a dragon. Under this letter was another paper, written in the Dutch tongue, which was the interpretation of the other, written in the Moscovian letters. These letters were sent the next year after the date of king Edward's letters, 1554. ' . .* ■ . . . , THE COINS, ATEIGHTS, AND KIEASURES USED IN RUSSIA | WRTfTEN BT JOIIN HASSE, IS THE TEAR IfM. FORASMUCH as it is most necessary lor all merchants who seek to have traffic in any strange regions, first to acquaint themselves with the coins of those lands with which they do intend to join in traffic, and how they are called from the valuation of the highest piece to the lowest, and in what sort they make their payments, as also what their common weights iuid measures be ; for these causes I have thought good to write some- thing thereof, according to mine own knowledge and experience, to the end that the merchants of that new adventure may the better understand how the wealth of that new frequented trade will arise. First, it is to be noted, that the emperor of Russia hath no other coins than silver in all his land, which goeth for payment amongst merchants ; yet notwithstanding there is a coin of copper which serveth for the relief of the poor in Mosco, and no where else, and that is but only for quasse, water, and fiiiit, as nuts, apples, and such other like. The name of which money is called pole or poles, of which poles there go to the least of the silver coins eighteen. But I will not stand upon this, because it is no current money among merchants. Of silver coins there be three sorts of pieces : the least is a poledenga ; the second a denga ; the third, nowgrote, which is as much to say in English, as halfpenny, penny, and two-pence ; v-uid for other valued money than this, there is none : there are often- TOTIIK NOUrilKKN k'AHTS Ol' HL'SSIA AND SUlKltlV. 41 '.ti times there coins of ^M, but they come out on'oi-eigii countries, whereof there is no ordinary vahiution, but they pass according to the agaement of merchants. 'i'heir order in summing of money is this : as we say in England halfpenny, penny, shiUing, and jwund, so say they ix)lcdenga, denga, altine, and rubble : there goeih two poledengus to a denga, six dengas to an altine, and twenty-three altincs and two den- gas to a rubble. Concerning the weights of Russia they are these : there are two sorts of pounds in use amongst them ; the one great, the other small : the great pound is just two small pounds : they call the great weight by the name of bcasemar, and the small they call the skalla weight : with this small weight they weigh their silver coins, of the which the emperor hath commanded to put to every small |xjund three rubbles of silver ; and with die same weight they weigh all grocery wares, and almost all other wares which come into the land, except those which they weigh by the pode, as hops, salt, iron, lead, tin, and batrie, with divers others, notwithstanding they use to weigh batrie more often by the small weight thim by the great. Whensoever you find the prices of your wares rated by the pode, consider that to be the grcat weight, and the {X)und to ^c the small. Also they divide the small pound into forty -eight parts, and they call the eight-and- fortieth part a slotnike, by tie which slotnike, the retailers sell their wares out of their shops, as goldsmiths, grocers, silk- sellers, and such other, like as we do use to retail by the ounce : and as for their great weight which they call the beasemar, they sell by pode, or ship^iond. The pode doth contain of the great weight forty pounds, and of the small eighty : there go ten jxxlcs to a shippond. Yet you must consider that their great weight is not full with ours : for I take not their ^at pound to be full thirteen ounces, but above twelve 1 think it be. But for your lust proof, weigh six rubbles of Russia money with our pound weight, and then you shall see what it lacketh : for six rubbles of Russia is by the emperor's standard the great ix)iuid : so that I think it be the next way to know the just weight, as well of the great pound as of the small. There is another weight needful to be known, which is the weight of Wardhouse, for so much as they weigh all their dry fish by weight, which weight is the beasemar, as thev of Russia do use, notwithstanding there is another sort in it : the names of those weights are these : the mark pound, the great pound, the weie, and the shijipond. The mark pound is to be understood as our pound, and their great ix>und is twenty- four of their mark pound : the weie is three great pound, and eight weie is a shippond. Now concerning their measures, as they have two sorts of weights, so they have also two sorts of measures, wherewith they measure cloth, both linen and woollen : they call the one an areshine, and the other a locut : the arcshine I take to be as much iis the Flanders ell, and their locut half an English yard : with their areshine they may- mete all such sorts of cloths as come into the land, and >vith the locut all such cloth, both linen and woollen, as they make themselves. And whereas we use to give yard and inch, or yard and handful, they do give nothing but bare measure. They have also a measure wherewith they do meet their corn which they call a setforth, and the half of that an osmine : this setforth I take to be three bushels of London measure. And as for their drink measure, they call it a span, which is much liki^ a bucket, and of that I never saw any true rate, but that some was greater tb.m other some. And as for the measures of Wardhouse, wherewith they mete their cloth, VOL. I, c 43 VOVAOEA OF SIR IIIICII WIIXOLCIIBY AND OTHRRS. i I 'f'l I there Is no diflfcrence between that and the measure of Dansk, which is half an Eng- lish ell. Concerning the tolls and customs of Russia, it was reported to me in Moscovia, that the Turks and Armenians |>ay the tcntli penny custom of uU the wares they bring into the emperor's land, and above that thev pay for all such goods as they weigh at the em- peror's !.^am, two pence of the rubble, which the buyer or seller must make report of to the master of the beam they : also pay a certain horse toll, which is in divers places of his realm four |)ence of a horse. The Dutch nation are free of this : notwithstanding, for certain offences, tliey had lost their privileges, which they have recovered this summer, to their great charge. It was reported to me by a justice of that countrv, that they paid for it thirty thousand rubbles, and also that Rye, Dorpte, and Revel have yielded tliems elves under the go- vernment of the emperor of Russia : whether this was u brag of the Russes or not, I know not, but thus he said, and indeed while we were there, there came a great am- bassador out of Liefland, for tlie assurance of their privileges. To speak somewhat of the commodities of this country, it is to be understood, that there is a certain place four score miles from the sea called Colmogro : to which place there resort all tlie sorts of wares tkit are in the north parts, as oils, salt, stockfish, salmon, feathers, and furs : their salt they make of salt water by the sea side : their oils they make of seals, whereof they have great store, which is brought out of the bay where our ships came in : they make it in the spring of the year, and bring it to Col- mogro to sell, and tlie merchants there carry it to Novogrode, and so sell it to the Dutch nation. Their stockfish and salmon cometh from a place called Mallums, not far from Wardhouse : their salmon and their salt they carry to Mosco, and their dry fish they carry to Novogrode, and sell it there to the Lieflanders. The furs and feathers which come to Colmogro, as sables, beavers, minks, armine, lettis, graies, woolverings, and white foxes, with deer skins, they are brought thither, by the men of Penning, Lampas, and Povvstezer. which fetch them from the Samoedes that are counted savage people : and the merchants that bring these furs do use to tnick with the merchants of Colmogro for cloth, tin, batrie, and such other like, and the merchants of Colmogro carry mem to Novogrode, Vologda, or Mosco, and sell them there. The feathers which come from Penning they do little esteem. If our merchants do desire to know the meetest place of Russia for the standmg house, in mine opinion I take it to be Vologda, which is a great town standing in the lieart of Russia, with many great and good towns about it. There b great plenty of com, victuals, and of all such wares as are raised in Rusland, but specially flax, hemp, tallow, and bacon : there is also great store of wax, but it cometh from the Mosca The town of Vologda is meetest for our merchants, because it lieth amongst all the best towns of Russia, and tliere is no town in Russia but trades with it : also the water is a great commodity to it. If they plant themselves in Mosco or Novogrode, their charge will be great and wonderful, but not so in Vologda : for all things will there be had better cheap by the one half. And for their vent I know no place so meet It is likely that some will think the Mosco to be the meetest by the reason of the court, but by that reason I take it to be worse : for the charge there would be so great by Gravers and exigences, that the moiety of the profit would be wholly consumed, which in the other place will be saved. And yet notwithstanding our merchants may be there ill the winter to serve the emperor and his court. The emperor is a great merchant TO TIIR NORTIIF.riN PARTA OF nUMIA AND .SinF.KI* 49 himself of wax and sablcH, which with gootl forc»ij?ht may Ix- procured to their hanils : UH for other commcxlities there are little or uouc in Moscovia, besides those alxjve re. hearsed : if there be other it is brought thither by the Tiirlcx, who will Ik: dainty to buy our clothes, considering the charprcs of curri.iRe over laml. Our merchiints nrwy do well to provide for the Ruswes such wares as the Dutch nation doth serve them of, as Flanders and Holland cloths, which, I believe, they shall serve better and with less charge than they of Rye, or Dori)te, or Revel : for it is no small adventure to bring their clothes out of Flanders to either of these places, and Uieir charge not little to carry them over land to Novogrode, which is from Rye nine him. dred Russian miles. This Novogrode is a place well furnished with flax, wax, hides, tallow, and many other things : the best flax in Russia is brought thither, and there sold by the hundred bundles, which is done also at Vologda, and they that bring the flax to Novogrode, dwell as near Vologda, as Novogrode, and when they hear of the utterance which they may have with our nation, they will as willingly come to them as go to oUier. They have in Russia two sorts of flax, the one b called great flax, and the other small : that which they call great flax is better by four rubbles in one hundred bundles than the small : it is much longer than the other, and cleaner without wood : and whereas of the small flax there go twenty-seven or twenty-eight bundles to a shippondi there goeth not of the greater sort above twenty- two or twenty- four at the most. There are many other trifles in Russia, as soap, mats, ^c. but I think there will be no great account made of them. \'i »''»M ».*I 1>)J f\ u voYACi^a or im high wiixouGiinv anu otiium*. The letter of M. Georfre A'i/lhiffjvorth, the company^n first agent in Afotcovif, touch' ing their entertainment in their svcimd voyage. Anno 1555, the twenty -aeventh ij/* Jsovemher in Mosco. RIGHT worshipful, my duty coniiidcrcd, he. It may please your wornhlp to under, stand, that at the making ncrcof wc all Ik: in g(Hxl health, tlvinks Ik- to God, »uve only William our cook as we came from Colmogro fell into tlx* river out of the boat, and was drowned. And the eleventh diiy of September we came to Vologda, and there we laid all our wares up, and sold very little : but one merchant would have given us twelve rubbles for a broad cloth, and he said nc would have had them all, and four altines for a pouiKl of sugar, but we did refuse it lx:causc he was the first, and the merchants were not come thither, nor would not come before winter, trusting to have more : but I fear it will not Ik much better. Yet notwithstanding we did for the best. And the house that our wares lie in costs from that day until Kaster ten rubbles. And the twenty, eighth day of September we did determine with ourselves that it was good for M. Gray, Arthur Ldwards, Thomas Hautory, ChristoplKT Hudson, John Segewic.k, Wchard Johnson, and Richard Judd, to tarry at Vologda, and M. Chancelor, Henry Lane, Kdward Prise, Rolxrt Best, and I, should go to Mosco. And we did lade the en»|)e. ror's sugar, with part of all sorts of wares, to have had to the Mosco with us, but the way was so deep, that we were fain to turn back, and leave it still at Vologda till the fix)st. And we went forth with post horse, and the charge of every horse being still ten in numl)er comes to ten shillings and seven pence half-|)enny, besides the guides. And wc came to the Mosco the fourth day of October, and were lodged that night in a sim* pic house : but the next day we were sent for to the emperor his secretary, and he bade us welcome with a cheerful countenance and cheerful words, and we shewed him that we had a letter from our queen's grace to the emperor his grare, and then he desired to see them all, and that they might remain with him, to have th?m perfect, that the true meaning might be declared to the emperor, and so we did : an then we were appoint- ed to a better house : and the seventh day the secretary sent for us again, and then he shewed us that wc should have a better house, for it was the emperor his will that %ve should have all things that we did lack, and did send us meat of two sorts, and two hens, our house free, and every two days to receive eight hens, seven altines, and two-pence in money, and meat a certain portion, and a poor fellow to make clean our house, and to do that whereunto we would set him. And we had given many rewards before, which you shall perceive by other, and so we gave the messengers a reward with thanks : and the ninth dav we were sent to makt us ready to speak with the emperor on the morrow. And the letters were sent us, that we might deliver them ourselves, and we came before him the tenth day : and before we came to his presence we went through a great chamber, where stood many small tuns, pails, bowls, and pots of silver, I mean, like ^vashing l)owls, all parsel ^It : and within that another chamber, wherein sat (I think) near a hundred in cloth of gold, and then into the chamber where his grace sat, and there I think were more than in the other chamber also in cloth of gold, and we did our duty, and shewed his grace our queen's grace's letters, with a note of your present which was left in Vologda : and Uien his grace did ask how our queen's grace did, calling her cousin, saying that he was glad that we were come in health into his realm, and we went one by one unto him, and took him by tlie hand, and then bis ■ II TO nil: NOHIIIRUN PAKTb UK Rl i4SI.\ MiO and the proof to be made that such kind of \vares were laden, the English merchants to bear no loss to the other merchant. Then the chancellor said, methinks you shall do best to have your house at Colmogro, which is but one hundred miles from the right discharge of the ships, and yet 1 trust the ships shall come 4(\ vovAr.ri or mit iiunii willouomhv awd ortiFR^, nearer hereafter, because the ships may not tnrry lotig for their ludinfif, which is one thousand miles fn)in Vologda hy water, and all our inerehants shall liring all our nier- chundiH( to Coltno^ro to you, and !to shall our merchai)t!i neither go empty nor come empty : for if they luck hiding homeward, dica- is »alt, which is good ware Ik-re, that Ihcy may come loaden again. So we were very glad to heiir thnt, and did agree to h's Huying : for we shall neverthelesM, if we list, have a house at Vologda, and ar flie Mosco, yen, and at Novngrode, or where we will in Rutland : but the thrte-and> twentieth of this present we were with the secretary, and then, among other talk, wc moved, that if wc should tarry at Colmogro with our warcn, and should not come to Volowia, or further to seek our market, but tarry still at Colmogrt), and then the merchants of the Mosco and others should not come and bring their wares, and so the shi|>s should come, ai\d not have their lading ready, that then it were a great loss and hin(hance for us : thens;ud he again to us, that the merchantM had lx:en again together with him, and had put the like uoubt, that if they should come and bring their wares to Colmogro, and tnat they sliould not find wares there sufficient to serve th ^, that then they should be at a j'reat loss ami hindrance, they leaving their other tn 'o fall to that : and to thai we did answer, that after the time that we do apinint .hem to bring llieir wares to Colmogro, Ci(xl willing, they should never come thither, but at the 'x'giuning of the year, they should find that or" merchants would have at the least for a thousand nibbles, although the ships were not come : so that he said, that then wc must talk further with the merchants b so that as yet I know not but th t we shall have need of one house at Colmogro, and another at Vologda, and if that they bring not their wares to Colmogro, then wc shall be sure to buy some at Vologda, and to be out of Ijondage. And thus may we continue three or four years, and in this space wc shall know the country and the merchants, and which way to save ourselves best, and where to plant our houses, and where to seek for wares : for the Mosco is not best for any kind of wares for us to buy, save only wax, which wc cannot have under seven pence the Russe pound, and it lacks two ounces of our pound, neither will it Ix* much better cheap, for I have bidden six pence for a pound. And I have bought more, five hundred weight of yam, which stands me in eight pence farthing the Kussc pound, one with another. And if we had received any store of money, and were dispatched here, of that we tarry for, as I doubt not but we shall be shortly (you know what I mean) then as soon as we have made sale, I do intend to go to Novogrode, and to Plesco, whence all the great number of the best tow flax cometh, and such wares as are there I trust to buy part. And fear you not but we will do that may be done, if God sends us health, desiring you to prepare fully for one ship to be ready in the beginning of April to depart oft' the coast of England. Concerning all tnose things which we have done in the wares, you shall receive a perfect note ^ the next bearer (God willing) for he that carrieth these from us is a merchant of Terwill, and he was caused to carry these by the commandment of the emperor his secretary, whose name is Juan Mecollawich Weskawate, whom we take to be our very friend. And if it please you to send any letters to Dantiske to Robert Elson, or to William Watson's servant Dunstan Walton, to be conveyed to us, it may please you to enclose ours in a letter sent from you to him, written in Polish, Dutch, Latin, or Italian : so enclosed coming to the Mosco to his hands, he will convey our letters to us wheresoever we be. And I have written to Dantiske already to them for the conveyance of letters from thence. I'u h is one I our nicr- nor come Iwrf, that (I iififnt' to and at tlie ihrt'c-and> r talk, wc )t conu' to I then the and Hr> the It loHS ill id in together their warc» th 1, that o fall .hem ler, but at at the least lat then we shall have bring not d to be out II know the LTc to plant nd of wares : the Rusue ctter cheap, ve hundred ], one with ed here, of mean) tlien , whence all e I trust to Is us health, iril to depart ill receive a rom us is a Kient of the om we take e to Robert D us, it may lish, Dutch, convey our to them for TO Tiir. NonTiir.RN p\nTs of nir«siA and siiikria. 47 And to certify you of the weather Wn, men nay that these liiiiidi id years was iicvei 80 warm weather ni this country at this time of the year. Hut .iHycsterm^lu we recei\ed a letter from Christo|)her Iltidvm from a city (tailed Yeraslave, who is r.onjiug hifhci with certain of our wares, but the winter did deceive him, so tluit he was fain to tarr) by the way : and he wrote that the empen)r's present was delivered to a gentlenum at Vi>logda, and the sled did overthrow, and the butt of hollocL was lo^t, which made us all very sorr)'. I pray you Ik* not offended with these my rude letters for lack of time : but ;us soon Ott sales be made, 1 will fnid the means to convey you a letter with speed : for the way is made so doubtful, that the right messenger is so much in doubt, that he would not have any letters of any effect sent by any man, if he might, for Ik knows not of these: and to say the truth, the way is not for him to travel in. But I will make another shift be- side, which I trust shall serve the turn till he come, if sales be made Ixl'oa- he be ready, which is, and shall be as pleaseth God : who ever preserve your worship, and send us good soles. Written in lutst By your's to command GEORGE KILLINGWORTH, Draper. A COPY OF THE FIRST PRIVILEGRS fillANTKn UV TUK RMPKKOli OF IIUSSIA TO TUB ENGLISH MKKCIIANTS IN THE VF.AU 1555. John Vasilivich, by the grace of God emperor of Russia, great duke of Novogrodc, Mfwcovia, &c. To all people that shall see, read, hear, or understiuid these prcst;nts, greeting. Forasmuch as God hath planted all realms and dominions in the whole world with sundry commodities, so as the one liath need of the amity and commodities of Jje other, ana by means thereof traffic is used from one to another, and amity thercby increased : and for that as amongst men nothing is more to be desired than amity, without the which no creature l)eing of a natural good disposition can live in quietness, so that it is as troublesome to be utterlj- wanting, as it is perceived to Ix; grievous to tlie body to lack air, fire, or any other necessaries most requisite for the con- servation and maintenance thereof in health : considering also how needful mcrchanvver unto the said governor, consuls, assistants and com- moniJty of the said fellowship, and to their successors forever, that all and singular the mtirchaiKs of the same company, their agents, factors, doers of their business, attomies, ser/unts, and ministers, and every of them, may at all times hereafter for evermore, surely, freely, a-id safely, with their ships, merchandises, goods, and things whatsoever, sail, come and tnterjnto all and singular our lands, countries, dominions, cities, iowns, villages, castles, ports, jurisdictions, and districts hy sea laud, or fresh waters, and there fairy, abide, or sojourn, and buy, sell, barter and change all kind of merchan- dises, with all manner of merchants, and people, of w!.:;tsi)ever nation, rite, condition, state or degrees they be, and v/ith the same or other ships, wares, merchandises, goods, and things, \\'hatt,oever they be, unto othev empires, kingdoms, dukedoms, parts, and to any other place or places at their pleasure and liberty by sea, land, or fresh waters may depart, md exercise all kind of merchandises in our empire ?ind dominions, and every part thereof freely and quietly, without any restraint, impeachment, price, exae- tion, prest, strait, custom, toll, imposition, or subsidy, to be demanded, taxed, paid, or at any time hereafter to be demanded, taxed, set, levied, or inferred upon them, or any of tliem, or upon their goods, ships, wares, merchandises, and things of, for, or i;fjon any part or parcel thereof, or upon the ^joods, ships, wares, merchandises, rnH things of ai»y of them, so that they shall not nt ^d any othci safe conduct or licence-genPi al nor spe<,ial of us, our aeirs, or successors ; neither shall be bound to ask any sffe conduct or licence in any of the aforesaid places subject unto us. 2. Item, we give and grant to the said merchants this power and liberty, that they, nor any of them, nor their goods, wares, merchandises, or things, nor any part thereof, shall be liv uny means within our dominions, lands, countries, castles, towns, villages, or other place or places of our jurisdiction, at any lime hereafter attached, stayed, arrested, noi disturbed for any debt, duty, or other thing, for the which they be not principal debtors or sureties, nor also for any offence or trespass committed, or that shall be com- mitted, but only for such as they, or any of them, shall actually comm't ; and the same offence^ (if any such happen) shall be by is only heard and determined. 3. Item, we {>;i\e and grant that the said merchants shall and may have free liberty, power, and ai'tliority to name, choose, and assign brokers, shippers, packers, weighers, measurers, waggoners, and all other meet and necessary labourers, for to serve diem in their leat of merchandises, and minister .^'iid ^ve unto them, and every of them, a cor- poral oath, to serve them well and truly in their offices, and finding them, or any of them, doing contrary to his or their oath, may punish and dismiss them, and from time to time choose, swear, and admit other in their place or places, without contradiction, let, \'ex?.tion, or disturbance, either of us, our heirs, or successors, or of any other our jus- tices, officers, ministers, or subjects whatsoever. 4. Item, we give and grant unto the said merchants, and their successors, that such person as '^^ or shall be commended unto us, our heirs, or successors, by the governor, consuls, and assistants of the said fellowship resiant within thec.fyof London, within the realm of England, to be their chief factor within this our empire ai.d dominione, may and shall have full power and authority to govern arid rule all Englishmen that have l.>ad, or shall have access, or repair in or to this said empire and jurisdictions, or any part TO THK NOHTIIKUV I'AUTS OV Ul SSI A AND SiriKlM V. 49 es, liber, dcclured, grant free and com- igular the attomies, evermore, hatsocver, es, iowns, aters, and mcrchan- condition, ies, goods, irts, and to :sh waters nions, and "ice, exac- d, paid, or im, or any r, or i»;jon 1 things of eppiil nor fe conduct that they, irt thereof, tillages, or I, arrested, it principal U be com- the same ee liberty, weighers, e tiiem in em, a cor- or any of rom time iction, let, :r our jus- that such governor, within the ion«, may have l>ad, r any part thereof i and shall and n>iiy nunistcr unto them, and every of them, good justice in all their causes, plaints, (|uarrcls, and disorders between them, moved and to be moved, and assemble, deliberate, consult, coucIikIc, define, determine, and make such acts and ordinances as he so commended with his assistants shall think good and meet for the good order, government, and rule of the said merchants, and all other Englishmen re- pairing to this our said emi)ire and dominions, or any part thereof, and to set and levy upon all and every Englishman, oftlnder or offenders, of such their acts and ordinances made and to be made, penalties and mulcts oy fine or imprisonment. 5. Item, ii ir. happen that any of the said merchants, or other Englishman, as one or more do rebel against such chief factor or factors, or his or their deputies, and will not dispose him or themselves to obey them, and every of them, us shall appertain ; if the said rebels or disobedients do come, and be found in our said empire and jurisdictions, or any part and place thereof, then we promise and grant that all and every our officers, ministers and subjects, shall effectually aid and assist the said chief factor or factors, and their deputies, and for their power shall really work to bring such rebel, or disobedient rebels, or disobedients, to due obedience ; and to that intent shall lend unto the same factor or factors, and their deputies, upon request therefore to be made, prisons and instruments for punishments from time to time. 6. Item, we promise unto the said merchants, and their successors, upon their request, to exhibit and do unto them good, exact, and favourable jusdce, with expedition m all their causes ; and that then they, or any of them, shall have access, or come to or before any of our justices, for any their plaints moved, and to be moved, between any our subjects or other stranger and them, or any of them, that then they shall be first and forthwith heard, as soon as the party which they shall find before our justices shall be deijeached, which party being heard forthwith, and as soon as may be, the said English merchants shall be rid and dispatched ; and if any action shall be moved by or against any of the snd merchants, benig absent out of our said empire and dominions, then such n »rchants may substitute an attorney in all and singular his causes, to be followed as need shall require, and as shall seem to him expedient. 7. Item, we grant and promise to the said merchants, and to their successors, that if the same merchants, or any of them, shall be wounded, or (which God forbid) slain in any part or place of our empire or dominions, then good information thereof given, we and our justices and other officers shall execute due correction and punishment without delay, according to the exigence of the case ; so that it shall be an example to all others not to commit the like. And if it shall chance the factors, servants, or ministers of the said merchants, or any of them, to trespass or oftend, whereby they, or an} of them, shall incur the danger of deatlv or punishm.ent, the gootls, wares, merchandises, and things of their masters shall not therefore be forfeited, confiscated, spoiled, nor s?'zed by any means by us, our heirs, or successors, or by any our officers, ministers, or sub- jects, but shall remain to their use, frank, fi-ee, and discharged from all punishment and loss. 8. Item, we grant that if any of the English nation be arrested for any debt, he shall not be laid in prison, so far as he can put in sufficient surety and pawn ; neither shall any sergeant or officer lead them, or any of them, to prison, before he shall have known whether the chic f factor or factors, or their deputies, shall be sureties, or bring in pavm for such arrested ; then the officers shall release the party, and shall set him or them at Ulxrtj\ vol.. I. H 50 VOYACiES or sill mUill UILLOIT-HHY ANDOrUKItS, 9 Moreover, wc give, grimt, and promise, to the siiid merchants, that if any of their shins, or other vessels, shall be spoiled, robbed, or dc.:nnified in sailing, anchotmg, or returning to or from our said empires and dominions, or any part thercot, by any pirates, merchant^, or other person, whatsoever he or tliey be, that then, anrl „, such case, we \vill do all that in us is to cause restitution, reparation and satisfaction, to be duly made to tiie said linglisl; merchants, by our letters, and otherwise, as shall stand with our ho- nour, and be consonant to equity and justice. _ , . . r 10 Item, for us, our heirs, and Miccessors, we do promise, and grant, to perform, maintain, corroborate, authenticate, and observe, all and singular the aforxsaid liberties, franchises, and privileges, like as presently we firmly do intend, ana will corroborate, authenticate, and perform the same, by all mean and way that we can, as much as may be, to the commodity and profit of the said English merchants, and their successors, ""^And 'to the intent that all and singular the said gifts, grants, and promises, may be inviolably observed, and performed, we, the said John Vasilivich, by the grace of God, emperor of Russia, great duke of Novogrode, Mosco, &.c. for us, our heirs, and sue cessors, by our imperial and lordly word, instead of an oath, have, and do pronuse, by these presents, inv"iolably to maintain and observe, and cause to be inviolably observed and maintained, all and singuUu- the aforesaid gifts, grants, and promises, from time to time, and at all and every time and times hereafter; and for the more corroboration hereif, have caused our signet hereunto to be put.* Dated in our castle of Mosco, the twentieth day of , in the year * The charter cranled by Philip and Mary to the Russia merchants does not deserve insertion ; but it is singular, tliat tlie right of conquest is permitted over any part possessed by infidels. TO TIIF. NOUTHERN l'AHTff OF RUSSIA AND SIREKIA. HI we 77te navigation ami discovenj toward the river of Oh, made by master Stephen liur- rou^rh. master of the pinnace called the Serchthrift, with divers things worth the noting, passed in the year 1556. (HACKLUYT, VOL. I. P. »74.; WE departed from Ratcliffc, to Blackwall, the twenty-third of April. Saturday, being St. Mark's day, we departed from Biackwall to Grays. I'he twenty-seventh, being Monday, the right worshipful Sebastian Cabota came aboard our pinnace, at Gxavesend, accompanied with divers gentlemen and gentlewomen, who, after that they had viewed our jjinnacc, and tasted of such cheer as we could make them aboiuti, they went on shore, giving to our mariners right liberal rewards ; and the good old gentleman, master Cabotii, gave to the poor most liberal alms, wishing them to pray for the good fortune and prosjx;rous success of the Serchthrift, our pinnace ; and then, at the sign of the Christopher, he and his friends banquetted, and made me, and them that were in the company, great cheer; and for very joy that he had to see the towardness of our intended discovery, he entered into the dance himself, among the rest of the young and lusty company ; which being ended, he and his friends departed most gently, commending us to the governance of Almighty God. Tuesday we rode still at Gravesend, making provision for such things as we wanted. Wednesday, in the morning, we depiu-ted from Gravesend, the wind being at S. W. that night we came to an anchor thwart our Lady of Holland's. Thursdiiy, at three of the clock in the morning, we weighed, and by eight of the clock we were at an anchor in Orvvcl Wanns, and then, incontinent, I wr^nt aboard the Edward Bonaventure, wher 'he worshipful company of merchants appointed me to be, until the said good ship arn , I :it Wardhouse ; then I returned again mto the pinnace. Friday, the fifteenth ot May, ac were within seven leagui s oi the shore, on the coast of Nonvay, the latitude, at a south sui 58" 30', where we sa^v three sails, beside our own company ; and thus we followed the shore or land, which lieth N. N. W. N. and by W. and N. W. and N. as it doth appear by the plat. Saturday, at an east sun, we came to St. Dunstan's island which is'and I so named; it was off us east, two leagues and a half, the wind l> ing at S. E. the latitude this day, at a south sun, 59** 42'. Also the high round mountain bare east of us, at a south sun ; and when this hill is east of you, and Ijeing bound to the northward, the land lieth north, and half a point westerly, from this said south sun, unto a north sun, twenty leagues N. W. along the shore. Upon Sunday, at six of the clock in the morning, ' c farthest land that we could see, that lay N. N. W. was east of us three leagues, at .a then it trended to the northwards, and to the eastwards of the north ; which headland I judged to be Scoutsness. At seven of the clock we changed our course, and went N. the wind being at S. S. E. and it waxed very thick and misty, and wnen it cleared, we went N. N. E. At a south sun we lost sight of the Serchthrift, because of the mist, making our way N. and when we lost sight of the shore and pinnace, we were within two leagues and a half of the shore. The last land that we saw, when this mist came upon us, which is to the northwards of Scoutsness, lay N. N. E. and S. S. W. and we made our way N. until a west sun five leagues. Frcm that until Monday, three a-clock in the morning, ten leagues N. N. E. and then we went N. and by E. because the wind came at the W. §. W. with thick 53 voYAr.F.s OP SfR mr.ir willouoiiby and OTifr-iis, mist ; the latitude this day at u south sun 63° 30' truly taken : at this season we had sight of our pinnace aj^ain. From that until Tuesday a south sun > . N. E. forty-four leagues, and then N. E. from a south sun until ei^ht of the clock, fifteen leagues N. E. From that until Wednesday a south sun N. N. L. except the first watch N. E. then had \vc the latitude in 67° 39'. From that unto a N. W. sun eighteen li'ugues N. E. and then we were within tw o leagues of the shore, luid saw the high land to the south* wards of Lo\vfoot break out through the mist, and then we went N. and by E. From the said N. W. sun until four of the clock in the morning, N. and by E. ten leagues and a half, and then N. N. E. until a south sun, the latitude being 69° 30'. From that until half an hour past seven of the clock, N. N. E. eleven leagues and a half, and then we went N. E. ten leagues. From that three leagues and a hall" E. N. E. and then we saw the land through the clouds and hazy thwart on the broadside of us, the wind being then at S. S. VV. From that tmtil Saturday, at eight of the clock in the morning, E. N. E. and to tlie northwards forty-eight leagues, and then the wind came up at N. we being aboard the shore, and thwart of the chapel which I suppose is called Kedihvike ; then we cast the ship's head to the seawards, because the wind was very scant ; and then I caused tlie pinnace to bear in with the shore, to see whether she might find an harbour for the ships or not, and that she found and saw two roaders ride in the sound ; and also they saw houses. But notwithstanding, God l^e praised, the wind enlarged upon us, that we had not occasion to go into the harbour ; and then the pinnace bare her mizen mast overboard with flag and all, and lost the flag : with the mast there fell two men over- board, but God be praised they were saved ; the flag was a token, whereby we might understand whether there were a good harbour there or not. At a north sun the North Cape (which I so named the first voyage) was thwart of us, which is nine leagues to the eastwards of the aforesaid chapel from the easternmost point of it. iune 7. The Sunday we weighed in Corpus Christi bay, at a N. E. and by E. sun ; the bay is almost half a league deep ; the headland, which is Corpus Christi point, lieth S. E. and by E. one league from the head of the bay, where we had a great tide, like a race over the flood : the bay is at the least tv\'o leag les over ; so do I imagine from the Fair foreland to Corpus Christi point ten leagues S. E. and bv E, it floweth in this bay at a S. and by W. moon, full sea. From that wc went until seven o'clock at after- noon twenty leagues S. E. and by S. and then we took in all our nails, because it was then very misty, and also we met with much ice that ran out of the bay ; and then we went S. S. E. with our foresail. At eight of the clock we heard a piece of ordnance, which was out of the Edward, which bade us farewell, and then we shot off" another piece, and bade her farewell ; we could not one see the other because of the thick mist : at a N. W. sun it began somewhat to clear and then we saw a headland, and the shore trended to^the southwestward, which I judged to be about Cr< > Island; it was oflf us at a N. N. W. sun, W. S. W. 8. From this N. N. W. sun until Monday we went S. E. aiul this morning we came at anchor among the shoals that lie off" Point Lookout, at a N. E. and by E. sun, the wind being at E. S. E. At this point Lookout, a south ...'^.m maketh a full sea. Cape Good Fortune lieth from the Isle of Crosses S. E. and between them is ten leagues. Point Lookout lieth from Cape Good Fortune E. S. E. and between tlum are six leagues. St. Edmond's point lieth from Point Lookout E. S. £. and half a point to TO TIIR NORTIIKRS PARTS OF UL'SHr.\ AVI) SIHUJI A 53 the southwards, and between them are six leagues. There is between these two points a buy that is half a league deep, and is full of shoals aiul d.mgers. At a S. K. sun we weighed, and tinned to the windwards, the wind being at L. iS. K. and at a S. E. sun we eame to an anchor, Ix'ing then a full sea, in five fathoms and a half water. It hicth at this plaee where we rode, and also at |X)int Lookout, (our fathom water. At u W. N. W. sun wc weighed, and drived to the windwards until Tuesday, a N. N. E. sun, and then, being a high water, we came to an anehor open of the river Cola, in eight fathom water. Cape St. Bernard lieth from St. Edmond's point S. E. and b} S. and betwixt diem are six leagues; and also betwixt them is the river Cola, into which river .we went this evening. 10. Wednesday we rode still in the said river, tlie wind lx;ing at the N. we sent our skiff a-land to be dressed; the latitude of the mouth of the river Cola is 65" 48'. 11. Thursday, at six of the clock in the morning, theix* came aboard of us one of the Russc lodias, rowing with twenty oars, and tliere were Ibur-and-twenty men in her. The master of the Ixwt presented m i >^'ith a great loaf of bread, and six rings of bread, which they call colaches, and four dried pikes, and a peck of fine oatmeal ; and I giwe unto the master of the boat a comb and a small glass : and he declaad unto mc that he was lx>und to Pechora; and after that I made them to drink, the tide being somewhat broken, they gently departed. The master's name was Pheodtr. Whereas the tenUi day I sent our pinnace on shore to be mended, Ix'cause she was leaky and weak, wiUi the carjienter and three men more to help him, the weather chanced so, Uiat it was Sunday before they could get alx)ard our ship. All that time they were without provision of victuals, but only a little bread, which they spent by Thursday at night, thinking to have come aboard when they had listed, but wind and weather denied them ; insomuch that they were fain to cat grass and such weeds as they could find then above ground, but fresh water they had plenty ; but the meat with some of them could scant frame, by reason of their queazy stomachs. 14. From Thursday at afternoon, until Sunday in the morning, our bark did ride such a roadsted, that it was to be marvelled, without the help of God, how she was able to abide it. In the bight of the S. E. shore of the river Cola, there is a good road in five fathom, or four fathom and a half, at a low water; but you shall have no land N. N. E. of you then. I proved with our pinnace that the depth goeth on the S, E. shore. 18. Thursday we weighed our anchors in the river Cola, and went into the sea seven or eight leagues, where we met with the wind far northerly, that of force it constrained us to go again back into the said river, where came aboard of us sundry of their boats, which declared unto me that they were also bound to the northwards, a fishing for morse and salmon, and gave me liberally of their white and wheaten bread. As we rode in this river, we saw daily coming down the rivei many of their lodias, and they that had least had four-and-twenty men in them, and at the last they grew to thirty s^l of diem ; and among the rest there wjis one of them whose name was Gabriel, who shewed me very much friendship, and he declared unto me that all they were bound to Pechora, a fishing for salmons and morses ; insomuch that he shewed me by demonstrations, that with a fair wind we had seven or eight days sailing to the river Pechoi-a, so that I was glad of their company. This Gabriel promised to give me warn- ing of shoals, as he did indeed. 21. Sunday beii.;pjthe one-and-twentieth day, Gabriel gave me a barrel of mead, and one of his special friends gave me a barrel of beer, which >vas carried upon men's backs at least two miles. •' -! B^ VOYAGES OF SIR UVCU WllJ.OlIfilinV AND OTHERS, 22. Monday wc departed from the river Cola, with all the rest of the said lodias, but sailing Ixfore the wind they were all too good for us; but accordin)^ to pujunse, this Gabriel and his friend did o ften strike their sails luid tirried for us, forsaking their own company. 23. Tuesday, at an E. N. E. sun, wc were thwart of cajx; St. John. It is to be un- dprstO(jd that from the Cape Si. John unto the river or bay that goeth to Mezen, it is all suii!: lai.d, and full of shoals and dangers, you shall have scant two fathom water, and see no land. And this present day we came to an anchor thwart of a creek, which is four or five kMgues to the northwards of the said cape, into which creek Gabriel and his fellow rowed, but we could not get in ; and before night there were above twenty sail that went into the said creek, the wind being at the N. £. We had indifierent go(xl landfang. This afternoon Gabriel came aboard ^vith his skiff, and then I rewarded him for the good company that he kept with us over the shoals with two small ivory combs, and a steel glass, with two or three trifles more, for which he was not ungrateful ; but not* withstanding his first company had gotten further to the northwards. 24. Wednesday being Midsummer-day, we sent our skiff aland to sound the creek, where they found it almost dry at a low water; and all the lodias within were on ground. Although the harbour were evil, yet the stormy similitude of northerly winds tempted us to set our sails, and we let slip a cable and an anchor, and bare with the harbour, for it was then nei^u* a high water : and as always in such joumies varieties do chance, when we came upon the bar in the entrance of the creek, the wind did shrink so sud- denly upon us, that we were not able to lead it in, and before we could have flatted the ship before the wind, we should have been on ground on the lee shore ; so that we were constrained to let fall an anchor under our sails, and rode in a very breach, thinking to have warped in. Gabriel came out with his skiff, and so did sundry others also, shewing their gooid will to help us, but all to no purpose, for they were likely to have been drowned for their labour ; insomuch that I desired Gabriel to lend me his anchor, be- cause our own anchors were too big for our skiff to lay out, who sent me liis own, and borrowed another also and sent it us. Then we laid out one of those anchors, with a hawser which he had of one hundred and forty fathom long, thinking to have warped in, but it would not be, for as we shorted upon the said warp the anchor came home, so that \ye were fain to bear tlie end of the warp, that we rushed in upon the other small anchor th It Gabriel sent aboard, and laid that anchor to seawards ; and then between these two anchors we traversed the ship's head to seawards, and set our foresail and mainsail, anc' when the bark had way we cut the hawser, and so gat the sea to our friend, and tried out all that day with our main course. 25. The Thursday we went room with Cape St. John, where we found indifferent good road for a N. N. E. wind, and for a need, for a N. and by W. wind. 26. Friday at afternoon we weighed and departed from thence, the weather being meetly fair, and the wind at E. S. E. and plied for the place where we left our cable and anchor, and our hawser ; and as soon as we were at an anchor, the foresaid Gabriel came aboard of us, with three or four more of their small boats, and brought with them of their aquavitae and mead, professing unto me very much friendship, and rejoiced to see us again, declaring that they earnestly thought that we had been lost. This Gabriel declared unto me that they hud saved both the anchors and our hawser ; and after we had thus communed, I caused four or five of them to go into my cabin, where I gave TO TirR VOnTIIERV PARTS OP Rl'SSIA AND SllirniA. 5.) them figs, and made them such cheer as I could. While I was thus ban«|iicttin|? ol" thim there came another of their skiffs aboard with one who was a Keril, whose name afterwards I learned, and Uiat he dwelt in Colmogro, and Gabriel dwelt in the town of Cola, which is not far from the river's mouth. 'I his foresaid Keril said unto me tha( one of the anchors which I Ijorrowed was his ; I gave him thanks for the loan of it, thinking it had been sufficient. And as I continued in one accustomed manner, that if the present which they brought were worth entertainment, they had it accordingly ; he brought nothing with him, and therefore I regarded him but little. And thus we ended, and they took their leave and went ashore. At their coming ashore Gabriel and Kcri! were at inconvenient words, and by the ears as I understand ; the cause was l)e- cause the one had Ix'tter entertainment than the other : but you shall understand that Gabriel was not able to make his party good, because there were seventeen lodiasofthe Kcril's company who took his part, iuuj but two of Gabriel's company. The next high water Gabriel and his connxiny departed from thence, and rowed to their former company and neijjhbours, which were in number twcnty-eight at the least, and all of them belonging to the river Cola. 27. And as I understood Keri! made reckoning that the hawser which was fast in his anchor should have been his own, ind at first would not deliver it to our boat, insomuch that I sent him word that I would complain upon him, whereupon he delivered the hawser to my comjiany. The next day being Saturday, I sent our boat on shore to fetch fresh water and wood, and at their coming on shore this Keril welcomed our men most gently, and also ban* quetted them ; and in the mean time caused some of his men to fill our barricoes with water, and to help our men to bea" wood into their boat ; and then he put on his best silk coat, and his collar of pearls, an:! came aboard agiiin, and brought his present with him ; and thus having more respect anto his present than to his person, because I |ier- ceivedhim to be vain glorious, I bade him welcome, and gave him a dish of figs ; and then he declared unto me that his father was a ^^ntlemiui, and that he was able to shew me pleasure, and not Gabriel, who was but a priest's son. 28. After- their departure from us we weighed, and plyed a'l the ebb to the wind- wards, the wind being northerly, and towards night it waxed ery stormy, so that of force we were constrained to go room with Cape St. John again, in which storm we lost our skiff at our stem that we bought at Wardhouse, and there we rode until the fourth of July. The latitude of Cape St. John is 66° 50'. And it is to be noted, that the land of Cape St. John is of height from the full sea mark, as I judge, ten fathoms, being clean without any trees growing, and also without stones or rocks, and consists only of black earth, which is so rotten, that if any of it fall into the sea, it will swim as though it were a piece of wood, In which place, about three leagues from the shore, you shall not have above nine fathom water and clay ground. July 4. Saturday at a N. N. W. sun, the wind came at E. N. E. and then we weighed and plyed to the northwards ; and as we were t^.vo leagues shot past the cape, we saw a house standing in a valley, which is dainty to be seen in those parts, and by and by I saw three men on the top of the hilh then I judged them, as it afterwards proved, that they were men which came from aome other place to set traps to take vermin for their furs ; which traps we did perceive very thick along the shore as we vvcnt 5, Sunday at an E. sun, we were thwart of the creek where the huoses lay, and there came to an anchor, and perceiving the most parr of the lodias to be gone, we thought it jiot good to tany any longer there, but weighed and sixint all the ebb plying to the windwards, 3Ct VUVAGKH Ol' SIH llt'GM WIl.I.OlTCIinY AND OTIIKRS, 6. Monday at a south sun it was high water. All along the coast it flowcth little, only a south moon makes a full sea ; and as we were a weighing we espied the Uusse lodias whieii we fust lost ; they came out of a exeek amongst iIk* sandy hills ; which hills begin fifteen leagues N. N. E. from Cape St. John. 7. Plying this ebb to an end, we came to an anchor six leagues N. N. K. fmm the place wnea" we siiw the Russes come out ; and there the Uutises harboured iheniselvcg within a sinik bank, but there was not water enough for us. At a north sun we weighed and plyed to the northwards, the land lying N. N. E. and S. S. \V. until a south sun, and then we were in ^}^c latitude of 68° 30' ; and in this latitude end those sandy hills, and the land l)eginneth to lie N. and by W. . S. aiKl E. and N. N. VV. and to the westwards, and there the water beginncth to wax deep. At a N. W. sun we came to an anchor within half a league of the shore, where wc had good plenty of fish, both haddocks and cods, riding in ten fathom water. 8. Wednesday wc weighed and plyed nearer to the headland, which is called Ca- ninoz, the wind being at E. and by N. 9. Thursday, the wind lx;ing scant, we turned to windwards the ebb, to get about Caninoz : the latitude this day at noon was 68° 40'. 10. Friday we turned to the windwards of the ebb, but to no purpose ; and as we rode at an anchor, we saw the similitude of a storm rising at N. N. W. and could not tell where to get rode nor succour for that wind, and harbour we knew none ; and that land which we rode under with that wind was a lee shore. And as I was musing what was best to be done, I saw a sail come out of a creek under the foresaid Caninoz, which was my friend Gabriel, who forsook his harbour and company, and came as near us as he might, and pointed us to the eastwards, and then we weighed and followed him, and went E. and by S. the wind being at W. N. W. and very misty. 11. Saturday we went E. S. E. and followed Gabriel, and he brought us into an harbour called Margoivets, which is thirty leagues from Caninoz, and we had upon the bar going in two fathom and a fourth part ; and after we were past in over the bar it waxed deeper, for we had five fathoms, four and a half, and three fathom, &c. Our bark being moored, I sent some of our men to shore to provide wood, where they had plenty of drift wood, but none growing ; and in this place we found plenty cf young fowl, as gulls, seapies, and others, whereof the Russes would eat none, wher.-of we were nothing sorry, for there came the more to our part. 12. Sunday our men cut wood on shore and brought it aboard, and we ballasted our ship with stones. This moi ning Gabriel saw a smoke on the way, who rowed into it with his skiff, which smoke was two leagues from the place where we rode ; and at a N. W. sun he came aboard again, and brought with him a Samoed, which was but a young man ; his ap- parel was then strange unto us, and he presented me with three young wild geese, and one young barnacle. 13. Monday I sent a man to the main in Gabriel's boat, and he brought us aboard eight barricoes of fresh water : the latitude of the said Margiovets is 68° 20'. It iloweth there at a S. S. W. moon full sea, and hieth two fathom and a half water. 14. At a W. N. W. sun we departed from this place, and went E. twenty-five leagues, and then saw an island N. and by W. of us eight leagues, which island is called Dol- goieve ; and from the easternmost part of this island there lieth a sand E. and by S. seven leagues long. 15. Wednesday at a N. and by E. sun, Swetinoz was S. of us five leagues. This day at afternoon we went in over the dangerous bar of Pechora, and had upon the bar but one fatliom water. TO TIIF. NOHTIIV.nS' TARTS OF niTMIA AND «iar.!lf V 57 16. Thursday wc rode still. 17. Friday I went on shore and observed tin- variation of the cotnpass, which was 3® 30' from the N. to the VV. the hititiule this du> was 69" 10'. From two or tha-e leagues to the eastward of Swctiiioz, until the eiuvring of the* river Pechora, it is all sandy hills, and towards Kchora the sandy hills are \ erv low. It hieth on the bar of Pechora four feet water, and it ttowcth there at u S. W. imwn a full sea. 20. Monday at a N. and by E. sun we weighed, and came cut over tin; said dangerous bar, where we had but five feet water, insomuch that we fouid a foot less water coming out than we did going in. I think the reason was U'causc r^'hen we wer.t in the wind was oft' the aci;, which caused the sands to break on either side of us, and we kept in the smoothest between the bn-aches, which we durst not hav« Jonc, except we had seen the Russes to have gone in before us ; and at our coming o'u the wind was off" the shore, and fair weather, and then the sands did v^t appear with breaches iis at uur going in : we thank God that our ship did draw so littL water. When we were a sea board the bar the • d scanted upon us, and was at E. S. E. insomuch that we stopped the ebbs, and plird all the floods to the windwards, and made our way E. N. L. 21. Tuesday at a N. W. sun, we thought tl'at we had seen land at E. or E. and by N. of us, which afterwards proved to be a monsU ous heap of ice. Within a little more tnan half an hour aftei we first saw this ice, we were enclosed within it before wc were aware of it, which was a fearful sight to see ; for, for the space of six hours, it was as much as we could do to keep our ship aloof from one heap of ice, and bear roomer from another, with as much wind as we might bear acourse ; and when we had passed from the danger of this ice, wc lay to tlie eastwards close by the wind. 22. The next day we were agam troubled with the ice. 23. Thursday being calm, wc plied to the windwards, the wind being northerly : we had the latitude this day at noon in 70° 11'. We had not run past two hours N. W. the wind being at N. N. E. and N. E. and by N. a good gi\le, but we met again with another heap of ice : we weathered the head of it, and lay a time to the seawards, and made way W. six leagues. 24. Friday at a S. E. sun wc cast about to the eastwards, the wind being at N. N. E. the latitude this day at noon was 70° 15'. 25. On Lt. James his day, bolting to the windwards, we had the latitude at noon in 70° 20'. The same day at a S. W. sun, there was a monstrous whale aboard of us, so near to our side that we might have thrust a sword or any other weapon in him, which we durst not do for fear he should have overthrown our ship ; and then I called my company together, and all of us shouted, and with the cry that we made he de- parted from us : there was as much above water of his back as the breadth of our pinnace, and at his falling down he made such a terrible noise in the water, that a man would greatly have marvelled, except he had known the cause of it ; b . . God be thanked we were quietly delivered of him. And a little after we spied certain islands, with which we bare, and found good harbour in fifteen or eighteen fathom, and black oze : we came to an anchor at a N. E. sun, and named the island St. James his island, where we found fresh water. 26. Sunday much wind blowing, we rode still. 27. Monday 1 went on shore and took the latitude, which was 70° 42'. The varia- tion of the compass was 7° 30' from the N. to the W. vox.. 1. I i 98 VOVAOtH OF Hilt IILT.M WIIXUl'GIIIIY AND Oril(:R4, 28. Tuesday wc plied to the westwards ulonpf the shore, the wind Ix-ing at N. W. and us 1 was iU)out to come to anchor, we Niiw a sail coming about the |)<)int, when inulcr we thought to have anchored ; then I sent a skiif ul)o;ird of liim, and at their conung aboard tiiey t(X)k acmiaintunce of them, and the cliief man said lie had been in our company in the river Cola, and also declared unto them that we were |)ast the way which hhould bring us to the Ob. This land, said he, is called Nova Zembia, that is to say, the New Lund ; and then he came ulx)urd himself with his skifl', undut his coining utx)ard he told me die like ; and said further, that in this Nova Zembia is the highest motnUaiii in the world, as he thought, and that Camen Uolshay, which is on the main of Pechoru, is not to be compared to this mountain, but I saw it not ; he made me ;ilso certain de< inonstrations of the way to Ctv: Ob, and seemed to make haste on his own way, Ixing very loth to tarrj', iKcause the year was far past, and iiis neighbour had fet Pechora, and not he ; so 1 gave him a steel glass, two pewter spoons, and a pair of velvet sheathed knives, and then he seemed somewhat tlie more willing to tarry, and shewed mc as much us he knew for our puqiose ; he also gave me seventeen wild geese, and shewed me that four of their lodiiis were driven {ler force from Cuninozc to this Novu Zcmblu. This man's name was Loshak. 29. Wednesday, as we plied to the eastwards, we espied another sail, which was one of this Loshak 's company, and we bare room and spake with hii who in like sort told us of the Ob, as the other had done. 30. Thursday we plied to the eastwards, the wind being at £. N. E. 31. Friday the gale of wind began to inca-asc, and came westerly withal, so that by a N. W. sun we were at an imchor among the islands of Vaigats, where we saw two small lodias, the one of them came aboard of us, and presented me with a great loaf of bread ; and they told me that they were all of Colmogro, except one man that dwelt at Pechora, who seemed to be the chiefest among them in killing of the morse. There were some of their company on shore which did chase a white bciu- over the high cliffs into the water, which l^ear the lodia that was aboard of us killed in our sight. This day there was a great gale of wind at N. and we saw so much ice driving a seaboard, that it was then no going to sea. August 1. Saturday I went ashore, and there I saw three morses that they had killed : they held one tooth of a morse, which was not great, at a roble, and one white bear skin*^ at three robles and two roblcs : they further told me that there were people called Samoeds on die great island, and that tl»ey would not abide them nor us, who have no houses, but only coverings made of dcers' skins, set over them with stakes : they are men expert in shooting, and have great plenty of deer. This night there fell a cruel storm, the wind being at W. 2. Sunday we had very much wind, with plenty of snow, and we rode with two anchors a-head. 3. Monday we weighed and went room with another island, whi. h was five leagues E. N. E. from us ; iu;d there I met again with Loshak, and went on shore with him, and he brought mc to a heap of the Samoeds' idols, which were in number about three hundred, the worst and the most unartificial work that ever I saw : the eyes and mouths of sundry of them were bloody ; they had the shape of men, women, and children, ver)' grossly wrought ; and that which they had made for other parts was also sprinkled with blood.' Some of their idols were an old stick, with two or three notches made with a knife in it. I saw much of the footing of the said Samoeds, and of the sleds that they ride in. There was one of their sleds broken, and lay by tlie heap of idols ; TO Till: NOUTIir.HN I'AKTli OK UUSttA AND SIOERIA. 50 and there I mw n dccrN nkin which the fowls hnd spoiled ; and before certain of their idols blocks were made as hi({h as their moviths, Ixing all bll pari of it, thanks be to (lod. And then Against night, it waxed ealm again, and the wind was at S. VV. we made our way until Smulay nof)n N. VV. and by VV. and then we had the latitude in 70** 30', the wind at S. VV. there was a billow no that we eould not discern to take the latitude exactly, but by a rea-Honable guess. 24. Monday there was a pretty gale of wind at 8. so that we went VV. and by S. the latitude this day at n(X)n was 70" 10' : we had little wind all day : nt a VV. N. VV. ■un we sounded, and had twenty-nine fathoms blaek sandy 07.e, and then we were N. K. five leagues from the N. K. part of the island Colj^oieve. 25. Tuesday the wind ill westerly we plied to the wnidward*. 26. Wednesday the wind was all westerly, and calm : we had the latitude this day in 70" 10', we being within three leagues of the north part of the island Colgoii ve. 27. 'i'hursday we went room alxjut the westermosi part of the island, seeking where we might find a place to ride in for a N. VV. wind, but could find none, and then we cast about again to the seawards, and the wind came at VV. S. VV. and this morning we lud j)lenty of snow. 28. Friday, tlK wind being at S. VV. and by W. we plied to the windwards. 29. Satuixlay, the wind being at S. we plied to the westwards, and at afternoon the mist jrake up and then we might see the land seven or eight leagues to the eastward of Caninozc : we sounded a little before, and had thirty-five fathoms and oze. And a while after we sounded again, and had nineteen fathom and sand : then we were witlVm three leagues and a half of the shore, and towards night there came down so much wind, that we were fain to bring our ship atric, and laid her head to the westwards. 30. Sunday, the wind became more calm, and then it waxed very misty : at noon we cast about to the eastwards, the wind being at S. and ran eight hours on that Ik )ard, and then we cast about and caped W. S. W. we sounded and had thirty-two fathoms, and tough oze like clay. 31. Monday, we doubled about Caninoze, and came at an anchor there, to the in- tent we might kill some fish, if God would permit it, and there we gat a gnat nusc, which nuses were there so plenty, that they would scarcely sufter any other fish t(» come near the hooks : the said nuses carried away sundry of our hooks and leads. A little after at a W. sun, the wind began to blow stormy at VV. S. W. so that wc were fain to weigh and forsake our fishing ground, and went close by the wind S. VV. and S. W. and by W. making our way S. S. VV. September 1. Tuesday at a W. sun, we sounded and had twenty fathoms, and broken wilkeshells : I reckoned Caninoze to be twenty-four leagues N. N. E. from us. 11. The eleventh day we arrived at Colmogro, and there we wintered, expecting the approach of next summer to proceed farther in our intendi d discovery for the Ob : which (by reason of cjr employments to Wardhouse the next spring for the search of some English ships) was not accordingly performed. % 69 VOYAGES OF SIR HUGH mLLOUGHDY AND OTHERS, Certain notes unperfectlu written by RichardJohnson, servant to master JR'chard Chan- color, ivhieh was in the discovery of l^aigatz and JS'ova Zemb/a, xvith Stephen Bur- rough in the Serchthrift^ 1556, and qfterward among the Samoeds, whose devilish rites he d""-'ideth. ^1 FIRST, iiftci' we departed out of England we fell with Norway, and on that coast lieth Northbern or Northbergin, and this people are under the king of Denmark ; but they differ i'l tlicir speech from the Danes, for they speak Norsh. And north of North- Ijcrn lie the isles of Rost and Lofoot, and these islands pertain unto Finmark, and they keep the laws and speak xhe langr^jit: of the islanders. And at the eastermost part of that land is a castle which is called the Wa:'dliousc, and the king of Denmark doth fortify it with men of war: and the Russes may not go to the westward of that castle. And E. S. E. from that castle is a land called Lappia : in which land be two manner of people, that is to say, the Lappians, and ihe Scrickfinns, which Scrickfinns are a wild people, which neither know God, nor yet good order : and these people live in tents made of deer skins : and they have n j certain habitations, but continue in herds and companies by one hundred and t vo hundreds. And they are a people of small stature, and are clothed in deers' skins, and drink nothing but water, and eat no bread but flesh all raw. And the Lappians be a people adjoining to them, and be much like to them in all conditions, but the emperor of Russia ham of late overcome many of thern, and they are in subjection lo him. And this people will say that they believe in the Russes' God. And they live in tents as the other do. And S. E. and by S. from Lappia, lieth a province called Corelia, and these people are called Kerilli. And S. S. £. from Corelia lieth a country called Novogardia. And these three nations are under the emperor of Russia, and the Russes keep the law of the Greeks in theii churches, and write somewhat like as the Greeks write, and they speak their own language, and they aoiior the Latin tongu*^, neither have they to do with the pope of Rome, and they hold it not good to worship any carved image, yet they will worship painted images on tables or boards. Arid m Russi'". their churches, steeples and houses are all of wood : and their ships that they have are soA^ed with withes and have no nails. The Kerilles, Russians and ^vloscovians be much alike in all conditions. And S. from the Mosco- vians lie the Tartarians, which lie Mahometans, and live in tents and waggons, and keep in herds and companies : and they hold it not good to abide long in one place, for they will say, when they will curse any of their children, I would thou mightest tarry so long in a place that thou mightest smell thine own dung, as the christians do : and this is the grea*est curse that they have. And E. N. E. of F.ussia lieth I.ampas, which is a place where the Russes, Tartars and Samoeds meet twice a yeav, and make the fair to barter wares for Wiwes. And N. E. from Lampas lieth the country of the Somoeds, which be about the river of Pechere, an • these Samoeds be in subjection to the emperor of Russia, and they lie in tents made of deer skins, and they use much witchcraft, and shoot well in bows. And N. E. from the river Pechere lieth Vaigatz, and there are the wild Samoeds, which will not suffer the Russes to land out of the sea, but they will kill them and eat them, as we are told by the Russes : and they live in herds, and have all their caniages with deer, for they have no horses. Beyond Vaigatz lieth a land called Nova Zembla, which is a great land, but we saw no people, and there we had fowl enough, and there we saw white foxes and white bears. And the said Samoeds which arc about the banks of Pechere, which are in subjection to the empe- TO THE NORTHERN' PARTS OF RUSSIA AND Sini.IllA 05 but ?rds, ieth ror of Russia, wlicn the}- will remove from one place to another, then they wiW make sacrifices in manner following. Every kindred doth sacrifice in their own lent, and he that is most ancient is their priest. And first the priest doth begin to play upon a thing like to a great sieve, with a skin on the one end like a drum : and the stick that he playeth with is about a span long, and one end is round like a ball, covered with the skin of an hart. Also the priest hath upon his head a thing of whi c like a garland, and his face is covered with a piece of a shirt of mail, with many smail ribs, and teeth of fishes and wild beasts hangmg on the same mail. Then he singeth, as we use here in England to hallow, whope, or shout at hounds, and the rest of the company answer him with this owtis, igha, ig/ia, igha, and then the priest rcplieth again with his voices. And they answer him with the self-same words so many times, that in the end he be- cometh as it were mad, and falling down as he were dead, having nothing on him but a shirt, lying upon his back I might jx;reeive him to breathe. I asked them why he lax' so, and they answered me, now doth cur God tell him what we shiill do, and whither we shall go. And when he had lain still a little while, they cried thus three times to- gether, oghao, ogliaoy oghao, and as they use these three calls he riseth with his head and lieth down again, and then he rose up and sang with like voices as he did before : and his audience answered him igha, igha, igha. Then he commanded them to kill five olens, or great deer, and continued singing still, both he and they, as before. Then he took a sword, of a cubit and a span long (I did mete it myself) and put it into his belly halfway, and sometime less, but no wound was to be seen (they continuing in their sweet song still.) Then he put the sword Into the fire till it was \varm, and 'io thrust it into the slit of his shirt, and thrust it through his body, as I thought, in at his navel, and out at his fundament : the point being out of his shirt behind, I laid my finger upon it, then he pulled out the sword and sat down. This being done, they set a kettle of water over the fire to heat, and when the water doth seeth, the priest beginneth to sing again, they answering him, for so long as the water was in heating they sat and sang not. Then they made a thing, being four square, and in height and squareness of a chair, and covered with a go\vn, very close, the forepart thereof, for the hinder part stood to the tent's side. Their tents are round, and are called chome in their language. The water still seething on the fire, and this square seat being ready, the priest put off his shirt, and the thhig like a garland which was on his head, with those things which covered his face, and he had on yet all this while a pair of hosen of deers' skins with the hair on, which c?me up to his buttocks. So he went into the square seat, and sat down like a taylor, aiid sang with a strong voice or hallowing. Then they took a small line made of deers' skins, of four fathoms long, and with a sm?.!i knot the priest made it fast about his neck, and under his left arm, and gave it unto two men standing on both sides of him, which held the ends together. Then the ketde of hot water was set before him in the square seat, all this time the square seat was not covered, and then it was covered with a gown of broadcloth, without lining, such as the Russcs do wear. Then the two men which did hold the ends of the line, still standing there, began to draw, and drew till they had drawn the ends of the line stiff and together, and then I heard a thing fall into the kettle of water, which was before him in the tent. There, upon I asked them that sat by me what it was that fell into the water that stood before lum. And they answered me that it was his head, his shoulder, and left arm, which the line had cut off, I mean the knot which I saw afterward drawn hard together. Then I rose up, and would have looked whether it were so or not, but they laid hold on me, and said, that if they should see him with their bodily eyes, they should live ito longer. And the most part of them can sj^ak the Russe tongue to be understood ; 64 VOVAOfciS OF Sin HUGH WILLOUGHUY AND OTHKllS, aiid they took me to be a Russian. Then thev began to hJlow will; these words, oghaoo oghaoot oghaoo, many times together. Ajid as they were thus singin^-i- and out culling, I saw a thing like a linger of a man two times together thrust through the gown from the priest. I asked tl>cm that sat next to me what it was that I saw, and they said not his finger ; for he \vas yet dead : imd that which I saw appear through the gown was a beast, but vviiat beast they know not nor would not tell. And I looked upon the gown, and there was no hole to be seen : and then at the last the priest lifted up his head with his shoulder and arm, and all his body, and came forth to the fire. Thus far of their service which I saw during the space of certain hours : but how they do worship their idols that I saw not : for they put up their stuff for to remove from that place where they la}'. And I went to him that served the priest, and asked him what their God said to him when he lay as dead. He answered that his own people doth not know, fieither is it for them to know : for they must do as he commanded. This I saw the fifth day of January in the year of our Lord 1556, after the Englbh account. OP THE PBRMIANS, SAMOITES, AND LAPPES. (HAKLtrVT L 491.) THE Permians and Samoietes that lye from Russia, N. and N. E. are thought likewise to have taken their beginning from the Tartar kind. And it may partly be guessed by the fashion of their countenance, as having all broad and flat faces, as the Tartars have, except the Chircasses. The Permians are accounted for a very ancient people. They are now subject to the Russe. They live by hunting and trading with their furs, as also doth ♦he Samoit, tliat dwelleth more towards the North Sea. The Samoit hath his name (as the Russe saith) of eating himself: as if in times past they lived as the cannibals, eating one another. Which they make more probable, because at this time they eat all kind of raw flesh, whatsoever it be, even the very carrion that lieth in the ditch. But as the Samoits themselves will say, they were called Samoie, that is, of themselves, as though they were indigene, or people bred upon that very soil, that never changed their seat from one place to another, as most nations have done. They are subject at this time to the emperor of Russia. I talked with certain of them, and find that they acknowledge one God : but repre- sent him by such things as they have most use and good by. And therefore they wor- ship the sun, the ollen, the losh, and such like. As for the story of Slata Baba, or the golden hag (which I have read in some maps, and descriptions of these countries, to be an idol after the form of an old woman) that being demanded by the priest, giveth them certain oracles, concerning the success and event of things, I found to be a very fable. Only in the province cf Obdoria upon the sea side, near to the mouth of the great river Obba, there is a rock, which naturally (being somewhat helped by imagi- nation) may seem to bear the shape of a ragged woman, with a child in her arms (as the rock by the North Cape the shape of a friar) where the Obdorian Samoites use much to resort, by reason of the commodity of the place for fishing : and there some- time (as their manner is) conceive and practise tlieir sorceries, and ominous conjectur* ings about the good or bad speed of their iournies, fishings, huntings, and such like. They are clad in seal skins, with the hair side outwards, down as low as the knees, with their breeches and netherstocks of the same, both men and won^icn. They are all black haired, naturally beardless. And therefore the men are hardly discerned from the women by their looks : save that the women wear a lock of hair down along both or to TO THE NOnTIIERN PARTS OF RUSSIA AND SIRRRIA. ()5 their ears. They live in a manner a wild and savage lite, roving still from one place of the country to another, without any property of house or land more to one than to another. Their leader or director in every company is their [xipa, or priest. On the north side of Russia, P'^xt to Corelia, lieth the country of Lappia, which reacheth in length from the farthest point northward (towards the North Cape) to die farthest part S. E. (which the Russe calleth Sweetnesse, or Holy Nose, the Englishmen Cape Grace) about Uiree hundred and forty-five verst, or miles. From Sweetnesse to Candelox, by the way of Versega (which measureth the hreadth of d.at country) is ninety miles or thereabouts. The whole country in a manner is either lakes or mountains^ which, towards the sea side, are called Tondro, because they are all of hard and craggy rock, but the inland parts are well furnished with woods, that grow on the hills* sides, the lakes lying between. Their diet is very bare and simple. Bread they have none, but feed only upon fish and fowl. They are subject to the emperor of Russia, and the two kings of Sweden and Denmark : which all exact tribute and custom of them (as was said beforc) but the emperor of Russia beareth the greatest hand over them, and exacteth of them far more than the rest. The opinion is Uiat they were first termed Lappes of their brief and short sjjeech. The Russe divideth the whole nation of the Lappes into two sorts. The one they call Nowremanskoy Lapary, that is the Norwe- gian Lappes, because they be of the Danish religion. For the Danes and Norwe- gians they account for one people. The other, that have no religion at all, but live as brute and heathenish people, without God in the world, they call Dikoy Lapary, or the wild Lappes. The whole nation is utterly unlearned, having not so much as the use of any alphabet, or letter among them. For practice of witchcraft and sorcery they pass all nations in the world. Though for enchanting of ships that sail along their coast (as I have heard it reported) aivi their giving of winds good to their friends, and contrary to other, whom they mean to hurt, by tying of certain knots upon a rope (somewhat like to the tale of Elolus his windbag) is a very fable, devised (as may seem) by themselves, to terrify sailors for coming near their coast. Their weapons are the long bow, and hand gun, wherein they excel, as well for quickness to charge and discharge, as for nearness at the mark, by reason of their continual practice (whereto they are forced) of shooting at wild fowl. Their manner is in summer time to come down in great com- panies to the sea side, to Wardhuyse, Cola, Kegor, and the bay of Vedagoba, and there to fish for cod, salmon, and but-fish, which they sell to the Russes, Danes, and Norwe^ans, asid now of late to the Englishmen that trade thither with cloth, which they excliaiigc with the Laps and Coreli? "s for their fish, oil, and furs, whereof also they have some store. They hold their mart at Cola, on St. Peter's day : what time the captain of Wrordhuyse (that is resiant there for the king of Denmark) must be present, or at least send his deputy, to set prices upon their stock fish, train oil, furs, and other commodities : as also the Russe emperor's customer, or tribute taker, to receive his custom, which is ever paid before any thing can be bought or sold. When their fishing is done, their manner is to draw their carbasses or boats on shore, and there to leave them, with the keel turned upwards, till the next spring tide. Their travel to and fro b upon sleds, drawn by the olen deer : which they use to turn a grazing all the summer time, in an island called Kildyn (of a very good soil compared with other parts of that country) and towards the winter time, when the snow beginneth to fall, they fetch them home again for the use of their sled. VOL. I. ■ K ■ .i ;! if 66 VOYAGES OF SIU IIUOIC WILLOUGHDY AND OTHERS, ^ learned epistle, written in 1581, unto the famous cosmographer, M. Gerard Af crea- tor , concerning the river Pechora, Naramsay, Carareca, the mighty river of Ob, the place of Yaks Clgush, in Siberia, the great river Ardoh, thelakeofKittay, call- ed of the borderers Paraha, the country ofCarrah Colmak, giving good light to the discovery oj (he north east passage to Cathay, China, and the Malucaes. (IIAKLUYT 1,509.) '' To the famous and renowned Gerard Mercator, his reverend and singular friend at Duisburgh in Cliveland, Uiese Ix: delivered. CALLING to remembrance (most dear friend) what exceeding delight 5'ou took at our being together, in reading the ^-ographical writings of Homer, Strabo, Aristotle, Pliny, Dion, and the rest, I rejoiced not a little that 1 happened upon such a messen- ger as the bearer of these presents (whom I do especially recommend unto you) who arrived lately here at Arusburg, upon the river of Osella. This man's experience (as I am ot opinion) will greatly avail you to the knowledge of a certain matter which hath been by you so vcaemently desired, and so curiously laboured for, and concerning the which the late cosmographers do hold siJch variety of opinions : namely, of the dis- covery of the huge promontory of Tabin, and of the famous and rich countries sub- ject to the emperor of Cathay, and that by the N. E. oceri sea. The man is called Alferius, being by birth a Netherlander, who for certain years lived captive in the do- minions of Russia, under two famous men, Yucovius and Unekius, by whom he wjis sent to Antwerp to procure skilful pilots and mariners (by propounding liberal re- wards) to go unto tlie two famous personages aforesaid, which two had set a Sweden shipwright on work to build two ships for the same discovery, upon the river of Dwina. The passage unto Cathay by the N. E. (as he declareth the matter, albeit without art, yet very aptly, as you may well perceive, wliich I request you diligently to consider) IS without doubt very short and easy. This very man himself hath travelled to the river of Ob, both by land, through the countries of the Samoeds, and of Sibier, and also by sea, along the coast of the river Pechora eastward. Being encouraged by this his experience, he is fully resolved with himself to conduct a bark laden with mer- chandise (the keel whereof he will not have to draw over much water) to the bay of St. Nicholas, in Russia, being furnished with all things expedient for such a discovery, and with a new supply of victuals at his arrival there, and also to hire into his company certain Russes best known unto himself, who can perftictly speak the Samoeds' language, and are acc^uainted with the river of Ob, as having frequented tliosc places year by year. Whereupon, about the end of May, he is determined to sail from the b' y of St. Nicholas eastward, by the mdin of Joughoria, and so to the easterly parts of Pechora, and to the island which is called Dolgoia. And here also he is purposed to observe the latitudes, to survey and describe the country, to sound the depth of the sea, and to note the distances of places, where, and so oft, as occasion shall be offered. And foras- much as the bay of Pechora is a most convenient place both for harbour and victual, as well in their going forth as in their return home, in regard of ice and tempest, he is determined to bestow a day in sounding the flats, and in searching out the best entrance for ships : in which place heretofore he found the water to be but five feet deep, howbeit he doubteth not but that there are deeper channels : and then he intendeth to proceed on f r TO THR NOnrilEHN PAUTS OF RUSSIA AM) SIBFKIA 67 uloiig those consts for the space of three or four leagues, leaving the island called Vaigats almost in the middle way between Ugoria and Nova Zembla, then also to pass by a certain Ixiy Ixtween Vaigats and Ob, trending southerly into the land of Ugoria, whcreinto fall two small rivers, called Mannesia and Carah, upon the which rivers do inhabit another barbarous and lavage nation of the Samoeds. He found many flats in that tract of land, and many cataracts or overfalls of water, yet such as he was able to sail by. When he shall come to the river of Ob, which river (as the Samoeds re- port) hath seventy mouths, which by reason of the Inigc breadth thereof, containing many and great islands, which are inhabited with sundry sorts of people, no man scarcely can well discover, because he will not spend too much time, he purposeth to search three or four at the most of the mouths thereof, diosc chiefly which shall be thought most commodious by the advice of the inhabitants, of whom he meaneth to have cer- tain with him in his voyage, and meanetli to employ three or four boats of that coun- try in search of these mouths, as near as possibly he can to the shore, which ^vithin three days' journey of the sea is inhabited, that he may learn where the river is best navigable. If it so fall out that he may sail up the river Ob against the stream, and mount up to that place which heretofore, accompanied with certain of his friends, he passed unto by land, through the country of Siberia, which is about twelve days' jour- ney from the sea, where the river Ob falleth into the sea, which place is in the conti- nent, near the river Ob, and is called Yaks Olgush, borrowing his name from that mighty river which falleth into the river Ob, then doubtless he would conceive full hope that he had passed the greatest difficulties ^ for the people dwelling therealx)ut report, which were three days sailing only from that place beyond the river Ob, whereby the breadth tliereof may be gathered (which is a rare matter there, because that m.any rowing with their boats of leather one day's journey only from the shore have been cast a- ."-y in tempest, having no skill to ^'uide themselves neither by sun nor star) th they have seen great vessels laden with rich and precious merchandise brought down that great river by black or swart people. They call that river Ardoh, which falleth into the lake of Kittay, which they call Paraha, whereupon bordereth that mighty and large nation which they call Carrah Colmak, which is none other than the nation of Cathay. There, if need require, he may fitly winter and refresh himself and his, and seek all things which he shall stand in need of: which if it so fall out, he doubteth not but in the mean while he shall be much furthered in searching and learning out many things in that place. Howbeit, he hopeth that he shall reach to Cathay that very sum- mer, unless he be hindered by great abundance of ice at the mouth of the river of Ob, which b sometimes more and sometimes less. If it so fall out, he then purposeth to return to Pechora, and there to winter : or if he cannot do so neither, then he mean- eth to return to the river of Dwina, whither he will reach in good time enough, and so the next spring following to proceed on his voyage. One thing in due place I forgat before. The people which dwell at that place called Yaks Olgush affirm that they have heard their forefathers say, that they have heard most sweet harmony of bells in the lake of Kittay, and that they have seen therein stately and large buildings : and when they make mention of the people named Carrah Colmak (this country is Cathay) they fetch deep sighs, and holding up their hands, they look up to Heaven, signifying, as it were, and declarmg the notable glory and magnificence of that nation. I would this Oliver were better seen in cosm(^raphy, it would greatly further his experience, which doubtless is very great. Most dear friend, I omit many things, and I wish you should hear the man himself, which promised me faithfully that he would visit you in his i 63 VOYAGES OF SIR IIl'GM Vn.l.OLT.linV ANU OTIIV'RS. way at Duisburg, for he desircth to confer with ^ou, and doubtless you shall very much further the man. He seemeth sufficiently furnished with money and friends, wherein, and in other offices of courtesy. I offered him my furtherance, if it had pleased him to have used me. The Lord prosper the man's desires and forwardness, bless his good beginnings, further his proceedings, and grant unto him most happy issue. Fiux; you well, good sir, and my snigular friend. From Arusburg, uix)n tlic river of Osclla, tlic twentieth of February, 1 58 1. Your's wholly at commandment, JOHN BALAK. The letter of Gerard Afercator, written to M. Richard Hakluyt, ofOxfordy touching the intended discovery of the north east passage. Anno 1580.* (HACiaUYT, VOL. L P. 444.^ [Translated from the Latin,] SIR, I received your letters the nineteenth of June : it grieved mc much that upon the sight of them, the time being spent, I could not give any convenient instructions : I wir*- Arthur Pet had been ii»f'^mied before his departure of some special points. The voyage to Cathaio by the east is doubtless very easy and short, and I have oftentimes marvelled, that being so happily becun, it hath been left off, and the course changed into the west, after that more than half of your voyage was discovered. For beyond the island of Vaigats and Nova Zembla, there followeth presently a great bay, which on the left side is enclosed with the mi^ty promontory Tabin-f Into the midst hereof there fall great rivers, which passing through the whole country of Serica, and being, as I think, navigable with great vessels into the heart of the continent, may be an easy means whereby to traffic for all manner of merchandise, and transport them out of Cathaio, Man^, Mien, and other kingdoms thereabout, into £ngland. But consider, ing with myself that that navigation was not intermitted, but upon great occasion, I thought that the emperor of Russia and Moscovy had hindered the proceeding thereof. If so be tbi't with his grace and favour a further navigadon may be made, I would counsel them certainly not first to seek out the promontory Tabin, but to search this bay and rivers aforesaid, and in them to pick and choose out some convenient port and harbour for the Englinh merchants, from whence afterward, with more opportunity and less peril, the promontory Tabin and all the coast of Cathaio may be discovered. And that there is such a huge promontory called Tabin, I am certainly persuaded, not only out of Pliny, but also other writers, and some maps (though somewhat rudely drawn :) and that the pole of the loadstone is not far beyond Tabin, I have learned by the cer- tmn observations of the loadstone ; about which pole and Tabin I think there are very many rocks, and very hard and dangerous sailing : and yet a more hard and difficile passage I think it to be this way which is now attempted by the west, for it is nearer to the pole of the loadstone, to the which I think it not safe to approach. And because the loadstone hath another pole than that of the world, to the which from all parts it * In the original, this letter follows some instructions for navigators, by M. Richard Hakluyt, of Elton, iu the county of Hereford, esquire, anno 1 580. Was this gentleman the father of our editor ? t This absurd theory is founded upon a misapprehension of the ancient geography. "''St to he ■4? TO TiiK NORTinERN PAm's! or HissiA \M) .siiu;ni \. (ii) luith a respect, tlic nearer you come unto it, the more the needle of the compass iloth vary from the north, sometimes to the west, and sometimes to the east, according as a man is to the castwiuxl or to the westward of that meridian that passcth Ij} both the poles nf the magnet and the world. This is u strange alteration, and very apt to deceive die sailor, luiless he know thr unconstaney and variation of the compass, and take the elevation of the pole sonie- times with his instruments. If Master Arthur he not well pro\'ided in this hchall", o\ of such dexterity, that jKrceiving the errors he he not able to eoirect the simie, I fear lest in wandering up and down lie lose his time, and be overtaken with the ice in the midst of the enterprise. For that gulf, as the}- say, is frozen every year -. rv hard. Which if it be so, the best counsel 1 could give for their best safety were to seek sonv harbour in that bay, and those rivers whereof I have spoken, and by some ambassador to make friendship and acquaintance with the great Can, in the name of the (pieen's majesty, whicsi I believe will be grateful to the mightiest emperor in the w orld, yea most excellent for the length of the traific, and great distance of the places. I think from the mouths of the mighty rivers Bautisus and Oechardus to Cambalu, the ehiefesi seat of die prince the Can, there arc not past three hundred German miles, and to piibs bv Ezina, a city of the kingdom of Tmgut, which seemeUi to be but one hunched German miles from the mouths of die said rivers, and is subject to the great Can. I would gladly know how high the sea doth flow commonly in the port of Moscovia^ where your men do harbour, and in other easterly places unto Tabin ; and also whe- ther the sea in this strait do flow always one way to the E. or to die W. or whether it do ebb and flow according to the manner of the tides in the middle of the channel, that is to say, whether it flow there six hours into the W. and as many back again to the E. for hereupon depend other speculations of importance. I would wish M. Frobisher to observe the same westwards. Concerning the gulf of Merosro and Ca- nada, and New France, which are in my maps, they were taken out of a certain sea card drawn by a certain priest out of the description of a Frenchman, a pilot very skilful in those parts, and presented to the worthy prince George of Austria, bishop of Liege : for the trending of the coast, and the elevation of the pole, I doubt not but they are very near the truth : for the chart had, beside a scale of degrees of latitude passing through the midst of it, another particulariy annexed to the coast of New France, wherewith the error of the latitudes committed by reason of the variation of the com- pass might be corrected. The history of the voyage of Jacobus Onoyen Buschwlu- censis* throughout all Asia, Africa, and the north, was lent me in time past by a friend of mine at Antwerp. After I had used it, I restored it again : after many years I required it again of my friend, but he had forgotten of whom he had borrowed it. The writings of Gulielmus Tripolitanus, and Joanes de Piano Carpini, I never saw : only I found certain pieces of them in other written hand books. I am glad the epitome of Abilfacb is translated, I would we might nave it shortly. Thus much, sir, I thought good to answer your letters : if there be any thing else that you would require of me, I will most willingly communicate it with you, craving this likewise of your courtesy, that whatsoever observations of both these voyages shall come to your hands, you would impart tliem to me, they shall all remain with me according to your discredon and pleasure, and whatsoever I gather of them, I will faithfully signify unto you by letters, if happily they may yield any help or light unto diis most excellent enterprise of navigation, and most profitable to ouy christian common- • OfBoisleDuc. <« 70 VOYAfJF.S OK SMI rilX.ll M'II,UOL'(.IinV AM) OTIIF.HS, wealth. Fare you nxll, most Icarncrl friend. At Duisburg in Clivclancl, twenty-eighth of July, the year 1580. At Arthur his return, I pray you Iciirn of him the things I have requested, and whc- dier any where in his voyage he found the sea fresh, or not very salt ; for I suppose the sea between Nova Zembia and Tabin to be fresh. Yours wholly to my power to be commanded, GKRAUU MKRCATOR. T/w (Uscoverif made by M. jirthur Pet and M. Charles Jackman of the north-east parts, beyond the Island of l^aigatz, with two barks ; the one ealled the George, the other the JFiUiam, in the year 1580.* IFritten by Hugh Smith. (FROM llAKLUVT, VOL. I. P. 4iS.) UPON Monday the thirtieth of May we departed from Harwich in the afternoon, the wind being at S. and to the eastward. The ebb being spent we could not double the pole, and therefore were constrained to put in again until the next cjay in the morn- ing, being the last of May ; which day we weighed our anchors about three o'clock in the mornmg, the wind being W. S. W. The same day we passed Orfordnesse at an east sun, and Stamfortl at a west sun, and Yarmouth at a W. N. W. sun, and so to Winterton, where we did anchor all night ; it v»as then calm, and the flood was come. The next day, being the first of June, we set sail at three o'clock in tlic morning, and set our course north, the wind at the S. W. and at S. S. W. The tenth day, about one of the clock in the afternoon, we put into Norway, to a place where one of the headlands of the sound is called Bottel ; the otlier headland is called Moile. There is also an island called Kene. Here I did find the pole to be ele- vated 62° : it doth flow there S. and it hieth seven or eight feet, not above. The eleventh day in the morning the wind came to me S. and to the S. E. the same day at six in the afternoon we set sail and bare along the coast ; it was very foul weather, with rain and fog. The twenty-second day, the wind being at W. we did hall the coast E. N. E. and E. The same day, at six in the morning, we did double the North Cape. About three in the afternoon we passed Skitesbeareness, and hald along the coast E. and E. S. E. and all the same night we hald S. E. and S. E. by E. The twenty-third day, about three in the morning, we came to Wardhouse, tho wind at the N. W. The cause of our coming in was to seek the William, whose com- pany we lost the sixth day of this month, and to send letters into England. About one of the clock in the afternoon the William also came into Wardhouse to us in good safety, and all her company in good health. The twenty -fourth the wind came to the E. N. E. This day the Williatn was hald aground, because she was somewhat leaky, and to mend her steerage. This night, about twelve of the clock, she did hale afloat again. The twenty. fifth day the wind was at E. N. E. , , , ,, , , . • * This narrative is inserted, though somewhat prolix, as the voyage was of »reat expectation, and the navigators had the merit of making a most obstinate and persevering attempt for a north-east passage to ('hina. TO Tirc NOnTlfF.UN PARTS* OV TiVHSiX AM) .Sini.lllA 74 The twenty .sixth day the Toby of Harwich departed from W'urdlioiisc for London, Thomas Green Ixring master, to whom we delivered our letters. The twenty-seventh day the wind was at S. S. K. and the twenty -eighth also. The twenty-ninth day, about six in the afternoon, the wind came to the W. N. \V. for Uic space of one hour, and presently to the K. again, and so wan varia!)lc all the same ni^rht. The tliirtieth, about six in the morning, tl»c wind eamc to \\. S. E. and continued sr* all the same daj-. The first of July, about five in the afternoon, the wind was at N. N. W. and about seven of the clock wc set sail from Wardhousc I*', and by S. The second day, about five in the morning, the wind was K. and E. S. E. and we did lie to the shorewards ; and about ten in the morning the wind came to S. S. E. and wc laid it to the eastwards ; sometimes we lay E. by S. sometimes E. S. E. and sometimes E. by N. About five in the afternoon we biu*c with the William, who was willing to go with Kegor, because we thought her to be out ol trie, and sailed very ill, where we might mend her steerage ; whereujjon Master Pet, not willing to go into harbour, said to Master Jackman, that if he thought himself not able to keep the sea, he should do as he thought best, and that he in the mean time would bear with Willoughby's land, for that it was a parcel of our direction, and would meet him at Verove Osfrove, or Vi: igats, and so we set our course E. N. E. the wind Ix^ing at S. E. The third day the wind at S. E. wc found the pole to be elevated 70° 4<)'. The same night at twelve of the clock we sounded, but had no ground, in one hundred and twenty fathoms, being fifty leagues from the one side by our reckoning E. N. E. from Kegor. The fourth day all the morning was calm. This day we found the pole to be ele- vated 71° 38'. This day, at nine in the afternoon, the wind atN. E. with a gentle gale, we hald along S. E. by E. The fifth day, the wind at N. W. we hald E. and E. by S. This day we saw land, but we could not make it, the wind being northerly, so that we could not come near to it. The sixth day, about two in the afternoon, the wind at N. N. W. we hald E. S. E, with a fair and gentle gale. This day we met with ice. About six in the afternoon it became calm ; we with sail and oars laid it to the N. E. part, hoping that way to clear us of it : for that way we did see the head part of it, as we thought ; which done, about twelve of the clock at night we gat clear of it : we did think it to be ice of the bay of St. Nicholas, but it was not, as we found afterwards. The seventh day we met with more ice, at the eas- art ol le other ice : wr hald along a- weather the ice to find some eind thereof by E. N. E. Th;^ day there appeared more land north from us, being perfect land : the ice was between us and it, so that wc could not come nearer to it. The same morning, at six of the clock, we put into the ice to find some way through it ; we continued in it all the same day, and all the night following, the wind by the N. N. W. we were constrained to go many points of our compass, but we went most an easterly course. The eighth day, the wind at N. N. W. we continued our course, and at five in the morning we sounded, and had ninety fathoms red oze. This day, at four in the after- noon, we sounded again, and had eighty-four fathoms oze, as before. At six in the afternoon we cleared ourselves of the ice, and hald along S. E. by S. we sounded again at ten o'clock at night, and had forty-three fathom sandy oze. The ninth day, at two in the morning, we sounded again, and had forty-five fathoms, /" b 72 \uYA(.Ks UI-' Silt iitt.ii wiia.oi (.iinv xstt utiieuh, thill tlita' apiwari'd a shadow of land to uh K. N. E. and so uc nin whh it the space of two hours, and then pcrct ivin^r that it was but log, wc hi»ld along S. K. ThLtday, at two in the atkriKMin, wc soinidcd, and had fifty fathoms hiack ozc ; our latitude was 70° 3'. At ten o'clock at night we Hounded again, and luid fifty fathom*) black oze. The tenth day, the wind kinp^at N. N. W. we hald K. and by N. which course wc set, because at ten of the clock alorcixwii wc did see land, and then we sounded, having thirt} -five fathoms black oze. All this day there was a great fog, so thiit we durst not bear with the land to make it, and so we kept an outwaally course. This day, at six in the afternoon, we espied land, whcrewitn wc hald, and then it grew calm ; wc sounded, and had one hundred and twenty fathoms black oze ; and then wc sent our boat a-land to sound and prove the land. The same night wc came with our ship with- in an island, where we rode all the same night. The same night we went into a bay to ride near the land for w(kx1 and water. The eleventh day the wind came to the E. S. E. This ■' , about a league from us to the eastwards, wc saw a very fair sound or river that pasi very far into the country, with two or three branches, with an island in the midst. The twelfth of July the wind was K. S. E. This day, about eleven o'clock in the morning, there came a great white bear down to the water side, and took the ^yate^ of his o^vn accord ; wc chased him with our Ix)at, but for all that wc could do he got to land and escaped from us, where wc named the bay Bearbay. This day, at seven in the afternoon, we set sail, for wc had good hope that the wind would come westerly, and with sail and oars we gat the sea. All the night it ^vas calm with fog. The thirteenth day in the morning the wind was very variable with fog, and as it cleared up we met with great store of ice, which at the first shewed like laixl : this ice did us much trouble, and the more because of the fog, which continued until the four* teenth day twelve of the clock. The fourteenth djiy in the morning we were so imbayed whh ice, that we were con- strained to come out as we went in, which was by great good fortune, or rather by the goodness of God, otherwise it had been impossible ; and at twelve of the clock we were clciu" of it, the wind being at S. and S. by W. The same day we found the pole to be elevated 70° 26' : we lay along the coast N. W. thinking it to be an iskmd ; but find- ing no end in rowing so long, we supposed it to be the main of Nova Zembla. About two in the afternoon we laid it to the southward to double the ice, which we could not do upon that boiuxl, so that we cast about again and lay W. along under the ice. About seven in the afternoon we got about the greatest part thereof. About eleven o'clock at night we brought the ice S. E. of us, and thus we were rid of this trouble at this time. The fifteentn day, about three in the morning, the wind was at S. S« W. we cast about and lay to the eastwards ; the wind did wester, so that we lay S. S. W. with a Hawn sheet, and so we ran alt the same day. About eight in tlie afternoon we sounded, and had twenty-three iiithoms small gray sand. This night, at twelve of the clock, we sounded again, and had twenty-nine fathoms sand, as afore. The sixteenth day unto three in the morning we hald along E. S. E. where we found eighteen fathoms red sand, then we hald along N. E. In these soundings we had many oveifals. This day, at ten of the clock, we met with more ice, which was very great, so that we could not tell which way to get clear of it : then the wind came to the S. S. E. so that we lay to the northwards : we thought that way to clear ourselves of it, but that way we had more ice. About six in the afternoon tlie wind came to the E. then we lay 10 the southwards, that wc had thirty fathoms black oze. This day we found the' 1 TO THr. N(Htriil.HN I'AKTA Of lit MMI V AM) iilHf.lllA. 7i pole to \)c cl( vated 09** 40' ; iuul tliis night at twelve o'clock Uf had lorty-onc fathoim red sand. The seventeenth daj , at three in the nioniiii^, \vc had twelve fathoms. At nine wc hod eight and seven. All thi^duy w* ran S. and S. In W, at the depdi uibre-iiiid, ivd sand, being hot ., very gutxl har- bour, and within are twclvr fathoniit. 'I'hin island is to the castu irds of Vaigntz four or five leagues. This land of tht- main doth trend S. E. and S. K. by K. it is a very fair C(K»»t, and even and plain, and not full of mountains nor rucks : you have hut shallow water of six or hcvcu fathoms alxjut a league from the shore. All this morning we hald K. S. E. This day we found the pole to he elevated 09" 14'. AlM)Ut twelve o'eUjck we were constrained to put into the ice, to seek some way to get to the northwards of it, hoping to have some clear passage that wa\-, but there was nothing but whole ice. Alxiut nine in the at\er< ncKJii we had sight of the William, and when we saw her there was a great land of ice between her and us, so that we could not come one to the otlnr; but as we came near to her, wc sounded our triim|)et and shot ofl'two muskets, and sIk* put out her flag u])on her foretopmast in token that she did see us. All this time we did shorten our sails, and went with our foresiiil and maintopsail, seeking the best way through the broken ice, she making away the best tlut she coidd to follow us, we nut our flag to answer her again with the like ; thus wc continued all the aftcrnooon till alK)Ut twelve o'clock at night, and then we moored our ship to a piece of ice to tarry, for the William. The twenty. fifth day, alxjut five in the morning, the William came to us, being both glad of our meeting. 7 he William had her stcmpost broken, that the rudder did hang clean besides the stem, so that she could in no wise port her helm with all hands ; she did lighten her stern, and trim her head, and when wc had brought her forward all that we could, we brought a cable under her stem, and with our capstain did wind up her stem, and so we made it as well as the place would give us leave, and in the end wc brought her to steer again. We acknowledge this our meeting to be a grea t benefit of God for our mutual comfort, and so gave his majesty thanks for it. All the night after we took our rest, being made fast upon a piece of ice : the wind was at W. N. VV. but we were so enclosed with ice that we could not tell which way to pass. Winds we have had at will, but ice and fogs too much against our wills, if it had pleased the Lord God otherwise. The twenty-sixth day die wind was at W. N. W. we set sail to the northwards, to seek if we could find any way clear to pass to the eastward ; but the further wc went that way, the more and thicker was the ice, so that we could go no further ; so about four in the afternoon we were constrained to moor upon another piece of ice. I think we sailed in all a league this day ; here we had fifteen fathoms oze, and this oze is all the channel over. All the same day after four of the clock, and all the night, we tar- ried there, being without all good hope, but rather in despair. This day Master Jug- man did see land £. N. £. from us, as he did think ; whether it were land or no I cannot tell well, but it was very like land, but the fogs have many times deceived us. The twenty-scventh day the wind was at N. W. This day, at nine in the morning, Ave set sail to seek the shore. Further into the ice we could not go, and at seven in the afternoon we moored to a piece of ice, and the William with us ; here we had fourteen fathoms oze. At three in the afternoon we warped from one ice to another. At nine in the afternoon we moored again to a piece of ice until the next day. All this night it did snow, with much wind, being at W. N. W. and at N. W. and by W. The twenty-eighth day the wind came to the S. W. and S. S. W. Thii day was a very fair day. At one in the afternoon Master Pet and Master Jackman did confer together what was best to be done, considering that the winds were good for us, and Wje ■ f.^. TO riiK. N-onrir>:itN vsnih ov ittisiA and Hin».HiA. Jg Itot nMc to pRM for uf, thvy did a^cc to v ck to the land n^i^ain, and ho to Vuifi^tz, and llurri to confir further. At tliric in the alkiiuMJH we ditl warp from one piece of ice to uiiother, to get from then* if it were pos!^il)le: here were pieces of ice no great, thai we could not ?iec Ix;) ond them out of the top. Thuf» we warixd tuUil nine in the after. n(M)n, and then we moored ihMx our shipt to a great and high piece of ice until the ncxt morning. The nine and-twcntieth (hiy the wind came to the S. W. we net siail at five In the morning, to ply into the shore if it were ixwHihle : we made many turns among the ice to hmail pur|X)^K■, for with the wind dotli the current rini. This day by miiifortune u piece of ice staielt ofl'our gattp af(jre at two aforenoon, yet f(jr all thitt we turned to do our lx.*»t. The William being incinnbend with ice, and perceiving that hhe did little gixKl, took in all her sails and made hcrsilf fast to a piece of ice, anu about four in the uiftern(X)n sthe set sail to follow us : we were afraid that she had taken some hurt, liut shu was well. At bcveii albanoon we took in all our sails to tarry for the William, and made our ship fast to a piece of ice : the William before she came to us took in all her sails, and moored to another piece of ice ; and thus we continued until the next morning. The thirtieth day, the wind at S. E. and b)- S, and at nine in tl»c morning wc set sail, and sooner would have done if the William had been by us ; but we did tarry for her, to know whether all was well with h(x ; but as soon as we made sail she did the like. All this day we did our best to seek our way as the ice would give us leave ; sometimes we lay S. sometimes W. and sometimes K, and thus we continued until eight at night, and then being calm, wc made our ship fast to a piece of ice, and went to supiK-r. In the mean time the wind with a fair gentle giUe came up to the E. and E. and by S. but thea* came down a shower of rain with it, which continued the space of one hour ; which being done it Ixjcame calm again, so that wc could do no good all that night, but took our rest until die next day. The thirty-first, the wind being at S. W. wc set sail to turn to windward at three o'clock in the morning. In this turning wc did little good, for the current would not give us leave ; for as tlic wind is, so is the current. We did our best until ten of the clock, and then perceiving that we did no good, and being enclosed with ice, we made our ships fast to a piece of ice. All this day the William lay still, and did as much good as we tnat did labour all the forenoon ; thus we took our rest all the same day. In the afternoon we set sail, the wind being at S. and by E. we lay to the westwards, as S. W. and S. W. and by S. and sometime to the westward, as we might : thus we continued until nine at night, and then we could go no further for ice ; so we with the William were constrained to make our ship fast to a piece of ice all the same night. This day we found the pole elevated 69° 20', and here we hud seventeen fathoms oze. The first day of August was very calm in the morning, the wind being at W. N. W. About twelve the wind came to the W. and continued so all tlic same night, with great fog. The second dav the wind was at S. W. all day, with rain and fog. All this day we were inclosed with ice, so that we were forced to lie still : here we had one-and-twenty fathoms oze. At six in the aflemoon the wind was at W. with very much foul weather, and so continued all the same night The third day the wind was at W. and W. by N. and W. N. W. This day we lay still enclosed with ice, the weather being dark with fog ; thus abiding the Lord's leisure, we continued with patience ; and sounding we found twenty-one fathoms. The foiujkh day we lay still enclosed wim ice, the wind being at W. N. W. This ice 1 70 VOYAGES OP Sm HUGH WILLOriGHBY AND OTHKRS, did every day increase upon us, yet putting our trust in God, we hoped to be delivered out of it in good time. The fifth day all the morning it rained, with very much wind, being at S. S. E. About three in the afternoon we .^ sail, and presently it became calm for the space of one hour, then the wind came to the N. 1 T. E. and here we had thirty-three fathoms ; thus we ii^ade way among the ice S. W. and S. S. W. and W. as we might find our way, for the space of three 'lours : then we met with a whole land of ice, so that we could go no further ; here we moored our ship, to tarry for a further opening : here we found forty-five fathoms oze, and all the night was very dark with fog. The sixth day having no o]M:ning of the ice we lay still, the wind being at W and W. by S. here we had sixty-three fathoms oze : all the same night the wind was at theW. N.W. The seventh day the wind was at W. and W. and by N. all day. All this day we lay still, being enclosed with ice that we could not stir, labouring only to defend the ice as it came upon us : hire we had sixty -eight fathoms oze. The eig'ith day was ve'^ ft ir and cjim, but foggy. This day towards night there ^vas little wi"id by the S. S. W. then the ice began a litde to open, and here we had seven- ty fathoms oze : all the night was foggy. The ninth day the wind was at N. W. and by W. all the afternoon we lay still be- cause ot ihe ice, which did still inclose us. This day we found the pole elevated 70° 4', we had sixty-three ♦athoms oze. This night was a very fair night, but it freezed : in the morning we had much ado to go through the same ; and we were in doubt that if it should have freezed so much the night following, we should hardly have passed out of \:. This nigl.t there was one star that apiieared unto us. The tenth day the wind was at E. N. L. with a very small gale : we with sail and oars made way through the ice. About five in the morning we set sail ; sometime we lay S. W. and sometime S. and sometime W. as we might best find t'le way. About three in the afternoon the gale began to fresh. About six in the afternoon the wind was at N. E. with fog : here we had eighty-eight fathoms : we bare sail all the same night, and it snowed very much. ' ^"^ubled with ice, and by great force we made our 1 diing impossible ; but extremity doth cause men -nm God's strength most appeare.h : this day we in the afternoon the wind came to the S. W. we were forced to make our ship *asi U) o piece of ice, for we were enclosed with it, and tarried the Lord's leisure : this night we had ninety-seven fathoms. The twelfth day the wind was ai the S. E. not very much, but in a manner calm. At eleven of the clock the wind came to the W. S. W. all the day was very dark, wit'i snow and fog. At six in the afternoon we set sail, the Aviud being at the N. N. E. All this night we bare away S. W. and S. S W. as well and as near as the ice would give us leai^e. All this night we found the ice somewhat favourable to us more than it was before, whereupon we stood in good hope io get out of it. The thirteenth day, at seven in the morning, the wind was at the N. E. and N. E. and by E. All this day we were much troubled with the ice, for with a blow against a piece of ice we brake the stock of^our anchor, and many other great blows we had against the ice, that it was marvellous that the ship was able to abide them : the side di our boat was broken with our ship which did recoil back, the boat being betwixt a great piece of ice and the ship, and it perished the head of our rudder. This day was a very hard day with us : at night we found m^xh broken ice ; and all this night it blew very The eleventh day we were mud way through it, which we thr.iig^,i - to do much, and in the weakness ' had ninety-five fathoms. At tm-e ■«> TO TIIR NORTHRRN PARTS OF RUSSIA AND 9I0ERTA. much wind, so that we lay in drift with the ice, and our drift was S. for the wind was at N. all this night, and we had great store of snow. The fourteenth day in the morning we made our ship fast to a piece of ice, and let her drive with it. In the mean time we mended our boat and our steerage. All this day the wind continued northerly, and here we had threescore and two fathoms : thus we lay adrift all the sam'- night. The fifteenth day we set sail at six in the morning, the wind being at N. E. At nine aforenoon we entered into a clear sea without ice, whereof we were most glad, and not without great cause, and gave God the praise. We had nineteen fathoms water, and ran in S. W. all the morning until we came to fourteen fathoms, and thence we hiild W. till we came to ten fathoms, and then we went N. VV. for so the land doth trend. At twelve of the clock v\ hiid sight of the land, which we might have had sooner, but it was dark and foggy aii the same day ; for when we had sight of the land, we were not passing three leagues from it. This day we had the jwle elevated SQ** 49'. All day we ran along the coast in ten and nine fathoms pepered sand. It is a very goodly coast and a bold, arid fair soundings oiF it, without sands or rocks. The sixteenth day the wind was at E. This day we were troubled again with ice, Lut we made great shift with it, for we got between the shore and it. This day, at twelve of the clock, we were thwart of the S. E. part of Vaigatz, all along which part there was great store of ice, so that we stood in doubt of passage, yet by much ado we got betwixt the shore and it. About six in the afternoon was found a great white bear upon a piece of ice. All this day in the afternoon it was dark with fog ; and all the night we hald N. and N. by W. and sometime N. and by E. for so doth the land trend. Tfie seventeenth day in the morning we hald W. for so doth the land lie : the wind was it S. E. and it was very dark with fog, and in running along the shore we fell aground, but God be praised without hurt, for we came presently off again. The William came to an anchor to stay for us, and sent some of their men to help us, but before they came we were under sail ; and as we came to the William we did stow our boats and made saii, we went within some of the islands, and hald W. S. W. About two of the clock in the afternoon we set our course S. W. and by S. so we ran S. W. until twelve at night, the wind came to the N. N. E. and then we hald W. The eighteenth day, at six in the morning, we had sixteen fathoms red sand ; at six in the morning, thirteen fathoms ; at ten, iburteen fathoms, and we hald W. N. W. At twelve a clock the wind came to the E. and E. by S. we hald W. and by N. all the same day and night At six in the afternoon we had seventeen fathoms red sand. Th^ nineteenth day the wind was at E. N. E. at six in the morning we had nineteen fathoms red sand : at twelve of the clock the wind blew N. and N. by E. we had seven- teen fathoms of water, at three in the afternoon fifteen. The twentieth day the wind was at N. E. and N. N. E. at seven in the morning we had thirty fathoms black oze : at twelve of the clock wt were upon the sudden in shoal water, among great sands, and could find no way out : by sounding and seeking about we came aground, and so did the William, but we had no hurt, for the wind was off the shore, and the same night it was calm : all night we did our best, but we could not have her afloat. These shoals do lie off Colgoyeve ; it is very flat a great way off, and it doth not high above two or three feet water : it floweth N. E. and S. W. The twenty-first day the wind was at S. W. and being very fair weather we did lighten our 8hi])s as much as was possible for us to do, by reason of the place. The same high water, by the lielp of God, we got both afloat, and the wind being at the S. W. did help us, for it caused it to flow the more water. 78 VOYAGES OF SIR HUGH ^V1LL0UGHBY AND OTHERS, This day we found the poie to be elevated 68** 40'. In the afternoon we both set sail to seek way to get out of these siinds, our boat a-head sounding, having six, seven, and eight fathoms, all within the sand which was without us. We bare to the southward, and the William bare more to the eastwards, and night being at hand the wind came to the S> E. whereuix)n we laid it to the southwards, lying S. W. and S. and by W. and ran to nineteen, and twelve, anr'. fourteen fathoms, and presently we had but six fathoms, ^^•hich was off the sands' head, which we were aground upon the day before. Then we cast about to the eastwards for deep water, which we presently had, as ten, Jifteen, and twenty, and so to twenty-three fathoms. The twenty-second day, at eight in the morning, we cast about to the southward, and this day in the morning we saw the William under our lee as far as we could sec her, and with a great fog we lost the sight of her, and since we have not seen her. Thus we ran till we came to thirty fathoms black oze, which we had at twelve of the clock, and at three in the afternoon we had twenty and three fathoms, and then we ran W. N. W. and W. by N. all the same night following. The twenty-third day we had at six in the morning twenty-seven fathoms, at eight o'clock twenty-eight fathoms : at nine the wind being at E. S. E. we hald W. N. W. this day we had sight of the land of Hugri side. At twelve of the clock we had thirty- two fathon: s sand. This day we ran W. and by N. and came to five fathoms off the bay of Morzovets. Then we laid it to the northwards, so that we lay N. N. E. off. The wind after came to the N. and N. by E. and we lay E. and E. by N. then we laid it to the westward again : and thus we lay till we came to forty fathoms, and then we went N. W. till we came to fourteen fathoms, and so to ten fathoms. Then we cast a1x}ut to the eastwards, and lay E. and E. by N. all the same night. The twenty-fourth day, at eight in the morning, we had thirty-two fathoms. We ran N. W. till we came to eleven fathoms, then we lay to the northwards till twelve at night, and then we came to forty fathoms, then the wind at N. E. we lay to the westwards, and hald N. W. along. . ••' The twenty-fifth, at four in the morning, we had thirty-seven fathoms, we ran N. W. the wind at N. N. E. very much. The twent sixth day we ran with the same wind, and found the pole to be elevated 70° 40'. The twenty-seventh, at seven in the morning, we saw land, which we made to be Kegor, then we hald N. W. and N. by W. to double the North Cape. The twenty-eighth day, at three in the morning, we ran N. W. and so all day. At night the wind came to the S. W. and we ran N. W. all that night. The twenty-ninth day we put into a sound called Tane, and the town is called Hungon : we came to an anchor at five in the afternoon, at twenty. five fathoms very fair sand. This sound is very large and good, and the same night we got 'vav^r alx)ard. The thirtieth day in the morning the wind at N. E. and but little, we set sail, and with our boat on head we got the sea about twelve of the clock : the wind with a fair gale came to the E. S. E. and all this day and night we ran W. N. W. The thirty -first day at twelve of the clock we doubled the North Cape, the wind being at E. S. E. we hald W. all the same day, and at night we ran W. S. W. The first day of September the wind was at N. E. with very much fog : all this day we ran W. S. W. at two in the afternoon the wind came N. The second day at three in the morning we doubled Foulenesse, and the wind was this day variable at all parts of the compass. In the afternoon we made but little way t TO THE NORTHERN PARTS OF RUSSIA AND SIBERIA. 70 at six o'clock the wind came to the S. W. and we went N. W. At nine in the night there came down so much wind by the W. S. W. that we were fain to lay it a hull, we hald it to northwards for the space of two hours, and then we laid her head to the south, wards, and at the break of day we saw land, wlxich is very high, and is called by the men of the country Foulenesse. It is within full of small islands, and without full of rocks very far out, and within the rocks you have fair sand at twenty fathoms. The third day, in the movning, we bare with the sound aforesaid : within it is but shoal water, four, five, and three fathoms, sandy ground, the land is very high, and the church that is seen is called Helike Kirke. It doth high here not above eight or nine feet. The twelfth day, at three in the afternoon, we put into a sound by Lowfoot, where it doth flow S. W. and by S. and doth high seven or eight feet water. The thirteenth day much wind at W . we had a ledge of rocks in the wind of us, but the road was reasonable good for all southerly and westerly wmds. We had the main land in the wind of us : this day was stormy, with rain. The twenty-third day, at four of the clock in the afternoon, we put «ito Norway, into a sound called Romesal, where it fioweth S. S. E. and doth high eight feet water. This place is full of low islands, and many good sounds without the high mountain land. Here b great store of wood growing, as fir, birch, oiik, and hazel : all this night the wind was at the S. very much wind, with rain and fog. The twenty-eighth day in the morning, the wind being at E. N. E. we set sail at eight of the clock, and hald out of the bay W. S. W. and S. W. having a goodly gale until one of the clock, and then the wind came to S. E. and to the S. with rain and fog, and very much wind : at six of the clock we came into a very good road, where we did ride all the same night in good safety. The twenty-ninth day we put into a good sound, the wind being by the S. W . at tliree in the afternoon there came down very much wind by the S. and all night with vehement blasts and rain. The thirtieth day, all day the wind was at W. S. W. And in this sound the pole is elevated 63° 10'. The first day of October the wind was at S. with very much wind and vehement blasts. The seventh day we set sail : for from the first of this month until this seventh day we had very foul weather, but specially the fourth day, v/hen the wind was so great, that our cables brake with the very storm, and I do not think that it is possible that any more wind than that was should blow : for, after the breaking of our cable, we did drive a league before our anchors would take any hold : but, God be thanked, the storm began to slack, otherwise we had been in ill case. The seventh day, at night, we came to an anchor until the next day, which was the eighth day of the month, when, as the wind grew great again with rain, whereupon we set sail and returned into the sound again : and at our first coming to an anchor, presently there blew so much wind, that although our best anchor was out, yet the extremity of the storm drove us upon a ledge of rocks, and did bruise our ship in such sor.', that we were constrained to lighten her to save her, and by this means (by the help of God) we got off our ship and stopped our leaks, and moored her in good safety, abiding for a wind. We rid from this day by reason of contrary winds, witli fog and rain, until the twenty-fourth day, which day, in the morning, the wind came to the N. E. and at eight of the clock we set sail. This sound is called Moore Sound, where it hieth about five feet water, and floweth S. S. E, The next day, being the twenty-fifth day, we put HflgHgi 80 VOYAGES TO THE NOETHERTf PARTS OP KUS8IA AND SIBERIA. into a sound which is called Ultar Sound, Nvherc was a ship of the king of Denmark put into another sound diercby, bcin^ two leagues to the southwards of us, that came out of Iceland : the wiixi was contrary tor us at S. S. W. The twelfth day of November we set sail, the wind being at the E. S. E. and passed through the sound where the king's ship did lie : which sound is called Sloure Sound. But !»s we did open the sound, we found the wind at the S. W. so that we could do no gocx(, so that we moored our ^ip between two islands, until the eighteenth day, and then the ^treuther being fair and calm, we set sail, and went to sea, hoping to find a fair wind, but in the sea we found the wind at the S. W. aiid S. S. W. so that we were constrained to re tuni into the same sound. The next day, being the nineteenth, the king's ship came out also, because she saw us put to sea, and came as far out as we, and moored where we did moor afore : and at our return back again, we moored our ship in an outer sound, called Scorpe Sound, because the king's ship was without victuals, and we did not gready desire her company, althou^ they desired ours. In this sound the pole is elevatad 62" 47'. Thus we lay still for a ivind until the first of December, whicli day we set sail at six o'clock in the morning, and at four in the afternoon we laid it to the inwards. The ninth thy we had sight of the coast of Scotland, which was Buchanness. The tenth day we were open off the Frith. The eleventh day, at four in the morning, we were thwart of Barwike : at six we were thwart of Bamburch : the san»e day, at ten at night, we were shot as ikr as Hollyfcote. Then the wind came to the S. and S. E. so that we lay still until the next day in the morning, and then we were constiained to put with Tinmoutli. The same day, at night, we hald aground to stop a leak, which we found to be in the skarf afore. The wind continued by the S. E. and S. S. E. until tlie twentieth day, r id then we set sail about twelve at night, bearing along the coast. The twenty-second day, by reason of a S. E. wind, we thought we should have been put into Humber, but the wind came to the W. so that we hald S. E. and at three in the afternoon we hald a sea board the sands, and had shoal water off Lymery and Owry, and were in four fathoms off them. The next day we hald as we might to sease Orfordnesse. The twenty-fourth day we came thwart of the Na-se, about eight in the morning. The twenty-fifth day, being the nativity of Cl'jist, we came to an anchor ^tween Oldliaven and Tilbury Hope,, The same day we turned as lii^ as Porshet. The twenty-sixth day we turned as high as Ratcliffe, and praised God for our safe return. And thus I end, 1580. The William, with Charles Jackman, arrived at a port in Norway, between Ti iMidbm and Rostock, in October, 1580, and there did winter : and from tmutce iVimrted again in February following, and went in comiituiy of a ship of the king of Denmark toward Iceland : and since that time he was never heard of. ■l—iWUMlJHillUP 81 THE FIRST VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH AND ZEALANDERS, BY THE NORTH, ALONG THE COASTS OF NORWAY, MOSCOVY, AND TARTARY, IN ORDER TO SELK A PASSAGE TO THE KINGr ^'S OF CATHAY AKD CHINA. [Newly translated from the Reccuil der. Voyages, qui ont servi a rctablissement et aux progrcz de la Compitgnie c'.es Indea Orientales. Turn. i. p. 53.] THE ancients, who possessed a great taste for the wonderful, have not failed to inter- mix it with the foundations of empires, and the establishments of states, and of almost all societies. At present, that the world is become more rational, nothing on these occa- wons is recited but of tV\e most ordinary description. We even sometimes find our- selves surprised, and in some measure displeased, at reading the feeble commencement of a great intrigue so little corrtsi^nding with the conclusion, and the ideas it has inspired. We feel inclined to call in question the veracity of those, who disc ose to us the motives and the simple means by which the greatest events have been proauced. The empire founded by the Dutch in the East Indies is not one of the least brilliant ornaments which adorn the history of the seventeenth century. It is at the same time one of those astonishing events, which have not been in the 'east foreseen when the first steps were made which gave them birth, and as nothing was farther from the views of those who n-ere the cause in producing this great effect, perhaps there also has never been so illustrious a foundation, produced almost by accident, and with so little design and power. Although this firs* relation, which is placed at the head of this volume, only presents the failure oi a & sign, it is nevertheless certain that the navigation it describes was the first instigation given to the United Provinces to go in quest of those rich regions, of w^ch they have since acquired tlie |x>ssession. Some mercnants, animated with a desire of making trade flourish, submitted propositions to the States, and obtained a permission, the consequences of whicli have been tJie sources of all the glory and prosperity of their native country. At the bead of the society which undertook this enterprise was Balthasar Moucheron, of Zeaknd. He requL ^ted of the States General and prince Maurice, high admiral, the liberty of seeking a northern passage to the kingdoms of Cathay and China : which was granted. Three vessels were immediately equipped by the society, one at Amsterdam, another at Zeaiana, and the third at ^nchuisen. Tliese vessels set sail in the year 1594, to pass around, if possible, by Norway, Moscovy, and Tartary, and j; octed to China. The vessel equipped at Amsterdam had fkn- chief pilot Wii' uu a Barentsz, of the town dt Schefling, a very skilful niariner. He took with nim a fisherman of the same town, with his bark, to keep him company, in case the other two vessels should be separated from him. ' _^ " . . '. .'';»' Tliese ves8#s nftvlliff departed from the Texd on the fifth of June, arrived on the twenty -third of the same month at the island of Kilduin, in Moscovy.' During the night of the fourth of July, Barentsz observed the altitude, the sun being at the lowest pomt, that is to say, N. E. half E. and he found he was in the latitude of 73° 25'.* TtKy then sailed live or six leagues from the land, under Novaya Zemlia, and Ijavirig: again observed the altitude, they bwe to the east. * tt apptarn, at the rttiulvislon of this journal, that TJai entsz'was separated from the olhc two vessels, and as they all joined in latitude 69*, it is very probable they were separated at leaving Kiiduin ; so that hereafter the navigation alone of the vesisel of Barentsz, with the bark of the fisherman;) '.s inquired into. VOL. I. If mm aii ^i. 83 niiar voyage of thk uuTt ii When they had run live or six leagues in the same course, thty found themselves near a point of land sufficiently low, but extending a considerable dist^ince into the sea, which they called Langenes. To the east of this jioint there was a great bay, by wliich they sent the shallop to shore, where no [)erson was obsfjrved. They afterwards remarked two creeks between the cape of Baxo, which is four leagues from Langenes, wild the western point of the bay of Loms, which is capacious and extensive. 1 o the west they founci a gtxxl haven, where are six, seven, and eight fathoms of water. Here the shallop approached the land, and they formed a buoy of an old mast which tliey found. This bay they called the bay of Loms, on account of a species of birds seen in great quantity, which were very heavy. Lorn in the Dutch langua^ signifying heavy. In effect the bodies of these birds appeared so large in proportion to their wings, which were very small, that they were surprised at their being able to lift such heavy masses. They make their nests on steep mountains, in order to be secure from the beasts, and they only lay one egg at a time. They are not scared at the sight of men : one irjirv even be taken in its nc*, without occiisioning the others near it to fly away or qu'r, «bl' stations. From the bay of Loms, they sailed towards Admiralty Isle, the western side of which is not clear, having little depth even at a considerable distance from the shore ; so that it is necessary to keep off the coast, and not to approach but with great precaution. The depth is even very unequal, and when at one sounding ten fathoms have been found, sometimes but six are found at another, and immediately afterwards they again find, ten, eleven, and twelve. The sixth of July, at midnight, they arrived at the Swarthockf or the Black Cape, lying in latitude 75** 29', and afterwards at William's Isle at the distance of eight leagues, in the latitude of 75*^ 5S'. They found at this place a great quantity of wood which had been brought by the sea, and Walrusses, or sea-cows, marine monsters of wonderful strength, larger than oxen, and having a rougher hide than the marine dog, with very short hair. Their muzzle resembles that of the lion. They almost constantly abide on the ice, and are difficult to kill, unless the blow be given exactly on tfie side of the head. They have four feet and no ears. They only bring forth one or two young ones at a time, and when met by the fish- ermen on the ice, diey throw their young ones before them into the water, and taking them between their fore legs as between the arms, they plunge with them and re-appear at different times, and when they would revenge themselves and attack the barks, or defend themselves, they again cast away tUpir young, and approach the bark with ex- treme fury. They have two teeth on each side of the mouch. nearly fourteen inches long, which are as much esteemed as the teeth of the elephant, especially in Moscovy, Tartary, and the other parts where they are used, because they are neither less white, less hard, nor less smooth than ivory. The hair of the beard resembles little horns, and is almost similar to those of the porcupine. Two were seen in 1612, at Amster- dam and other cities of Holland : one of them was old and dead, the other was young and still alive. The English call them sea-horses, and the French sea-cows : but among the Russians, who have been acquainted with these animals from time immemo- rial, they have the name of Morses. On the ninth of July they anchored in Berenfort road, under William's Isle, where having seen a white bear, they got into the shallop and wounded it with bullets. But the bear finding itself wounded, redoubled its fury', and exhibited marks of the greatest TO THE NORTH OF t.UllOPt. 83 vigour \vc have ever heard of, rising and appearing again from the bottom, where he had phmgcd, to swim m^ew. The |)ersons in the shallop dirceted it towards the luiimal, and passed a cord roii'id its neek with a running knot, tliinking to take it aUve and carry it to Holland ; nevertheless tlu'.y were very content at seeing it die, and having only the skin ; for it cried so horribly, struggled in such a manner, and made such prodigious eftbrts, that those who have never seen it would not be able to imagine any thing similar. After having tluis tormented it, they gave it a little relaxation, by not drawing tlie noozc tight; but diey always dragged it after them, in order to fatigue it the moic. Barentsz having caused it to be brought near, and touched it with his hand, the b-ar darted with vigour towards the shallop, put its f.wo paws on the stern, and ex« rted itself in such a manner that it entered with half its body. The crew were so alarmed, that they all fled to die poop, and no one expected to escape alive. The adventure which delivered them from this peril was very singular. The nooze got entangled with the in,)n work of the rudder, and stopped the bear. When they saw it thus checked, U\e most courageous of the sailors advanced ^vith a demi-lance, and gave it so violent a blow that the animal fell inco the water. The shallop, which then approached the vessel with all possible speed, dragged the beiu" after it, and so ex- hausted its strength, that seeing it less agitated than before, they were enabled to kill it, and its skin was brought to Amsterdam. On the tenth of July they observed the Isle of Cro;:ises, which they thus named on account of two great crosses which they saw there. They anchored at the distance of two long leagues from the shore, and having landed in the ij.li*nd they found it barren and full of rocks, being half a league in extent from East to West, and hiwing at each extremity a chain of rocks under wuter. Eight leagues thence is Cape Nassau, in the latitude of 76° 30'. It is a low and level point which must be carefully avoided, because there is a bank of seven fathoms at a great distance from tlic shore. From this cape they sailed five leagues to the E. and by S. and to the E. S. E. and then thought they saw land to the N. E. and by E. They immediately steered in that diicction, conceiving this to be a new land, to the North of Novaya Zemlia. But the wind increasing they were obliged to furl all the sails ; and the sea afterwards l>ecame so troubled, that they sailed for more than sixteen hours under bare poles. The day foUowmg they lost their little bark by a wave which sunk it, and after being thus driven about for a considerable time under bare poles, they found themselves at three in the afternoon under Novaya Zemlia, close to the land. On the thirteenth of July a great quantity of ice was observed from the top-mast. On the fourteenth they found themselves in the latitude of 77° 45', near a surface of ice perfectly smooth, extending as far as the eye could i-each. On the morning of the nineteenth they returned to the coast of Novaya Zemlia, near Cape Nassau, and on the twenty-sixth they were at Cape Troost. On the twentieth they arrived in latitude 77°, and the nwst northern point of Novaya Zemlia, called Ys-hoek, or Icy Cape, bore due E. Here they found some little stones shining like gold ; for which reason they called them golden stones. On the thirty-first of July , having tacked between the ice and the land, during fine weather, they arrived at the Orange Isles, near one of which they met with upwards of two hundred sea-cows on the sand, basking in the sun. The crew thinking these atnphibious animals >ERS, BY THE NORTH, ALONG THE COASTS OF NORWAY, MOSCOVY, AND TARTARY, IN ORDER TO REACH CATHAY AND CHINA. THESE vessels having returned in the autumn, reported that there were hopes of finding a passage by the strait of Nassau. The crews of the vessels of Zealand and En- chuisen were of this opinion, which was strongly supported by John Hugues of Lin. schooten, who had performed the voyage in quality of steward. This opimon inciiir^'d the states general and the prince of Orange again to equip some vessels for the following spring, not only in nrder to make discoveries, and as it were sound the passage, as they harl already done, ?)ut they were also to carry merchandi' ''. The merchants had tlic liberty of sending what goods they phased, with persons to nc- gociate for them in the places they sliould land ; and they were exempted from the taxes on exports, and all custom-house duticH. Peter Plancius, the celebrated co8mog/a|ri«e M/ii|irries have failed of success, and the routes presciibfl by him were nol I m I Many accidents occurred, and there were inconveniences wljj<. Ii if/e short nt-s ,/ I time would not permit to remedy. Seven vessels were therefore equl|j|jHl i/i IhHh: | } ^tdf^r of the states gentr.il and the prince of Orange, in ordt/ to pass by the Wi China. There were two from /Un < ' and one from Rotterdam : wx were laden uilh ;.! and merchants were appointed to nefTn »)Riri The seventh, whicli was a yacli I n/ders to return with tidings of the six others, when they should have doubled ( mjm labin, which they conceived to be the farthest point of Tartnry, or at least when tliej Ik tiild be so far advanced that they might direct their course towaitl the south, djidhai'e nothing more to dread from the ice. The same William Barentsz was again commander and pilot of the latest of the two vessels from Amsterdam ; and James Heeniskerk, who was appointed steward, b that Heemskerk who twelve years ufterf mat is to say, in 1607, acquired so gieat a reputadon in a celebrated naval combat which took place in the bay, and under the cannon of the fortress of Gibraltar. Gerard de Veer also embarked in the same vessel ; ind it is irom his journal that the present relation is publi^ed. They left the Texel on the jnd of June 1695, at sun-rise, and on the fourteenth were in sight of Norway. On tiie twenty -second, at three in the afternoon, they saw by the head of the ship a large whale aaleep : it awoke at the ncpe of the ship's ^vay and the i|. fl Ci pil towards Cathay and ' two from Enchuisen, iiercluuidise, and with money, ^ ,( T' ,,*i..^- 86 SKCOM) \OYA«r 01- TIIK ULTCIf shouts of the crew, and tims escupcd, otlicrwiiic the vessel would incvitubly have passed over it. Oil the fourth of Auf^ist the vice-admiral, who was n little way Ijefoitr, struck on a rock ; hut the weather was so favoural)le that he relieved himself without diiliculty. The accident of this vessel was a warning to the others to avoid the same r»K^k. On the sixth the same vessel of the vice-admiral and that of Barents/ ran foul of each other, ruid were much damaged. On tlie seventh they fell in with a vessel from Knchuisen, coming from the White Sea. On the fourteenth the altitude was tikcn, and they found themselves in latitude 70° 47'. On the eighteenth they observed two islands, to which the vessels from KnchuiM-u i^ave the names of Prince Maurice, and Count Frederic his brother. On the same day, at six in the evening, they discovered Nassau Strait, which bore five leagues E. N. K. From the latitude of 70° to the strait, ihcy constantly sailed through fragments of ice ; but the channel, which is situated exactly lx.'tween the cape of Idols and the land of the Samoiedes, was so full, that it seemed imjwssible to iienetrate there : they therefore determined to enter the bay, which they named Train Bay, Ixicause they there found a great quantity of train-oil. This bay is safe ; a ship is there protected from the banks of ice, and from almost every wind, and it may be entered to any distance in five, four, and three fathoms of water, on a sound bottom : hut it is deeper on the eastern side. On the twenty-first of August fifiy peisuns landed in order to reconnoitre the country. When they had proceeded two leagues, they found several sledges laden with furs, train- oil, and other such merchandise : they also found traces of men and rein-deer, and they were of opinion that there were men dwelling at no great distance, or at least that they frequented the place ; besides, tlie idols which they observed on the cape farther con- firmed them in this idea. Penetrating afterwards farther into the countiy, they were in hopes of meeting at last with houses and men, who might inform them of the state of the sea, and the navigation in those parts ; but notwithstanding theilr pains and care they discovered neither the one nor the other. In the mean time some of them advancing to the S. E. towards the shore, discovered a practicable path in the marshes ; for on entering into the water up to the middle of the, leg they found a sound bottom, and in other places less deep, the water was only above the shoe. When they had arrived at the sea shore they began to rejoice, imagining they had discovered a passage, for they saw so little ice that they were in hopes of bemg able to pierce through; they therefore returned in the evening on boat l^ and communicated this intelligence : the master had also sent a yacht with oars to observe if the sea of Tar- tary was open. The vessel not being able to enter that sea on account of the ice, re- pdb«d to Cape Cross, where the crew left it, and proceeded by land to Twist-hoek, or Cape Dispute ; •^there they perceii'ed that the ice of the sea of Tartary was in great quan> tities along the coast of Russia, and the point of Weigats. On the twenty-third day oC the same month of ^gust they fell in with a bark from Pitzora, constructed of the baiks of trees sewed together, and which was dispatched to the north tO; seek for the teeth of sea.cows, train-oil, and geese, in order to lade some Russian vessels which were to come by the Weigats. On being spoken to, they answered, that those vessels were to come round by the sea of Tartary, and pass beybnd the river Obi, to go to winter at Ugolita, a place in Tar- tar}', as they were accustomed to do every year : they also said diat the oudet from the strait would not be completely closed up before two months or two mot.ths and a half; TO TIIK NORTH (»F Kl UttVV. fff but timt then it would he po't'.ibic to proceed to Tartury on the ice, by the »tu which they nunjcd tlic sea of Marmora. On the twenty lifth ol" August the Dutch rclurnal tt) the bark, where they were re- ccivcdby the KussianHwith murks of IVieiulsliip, which they did not fail to return. The Uusiiiuns, whtj hud u great many fat geeh,c, uiaile tlicni a present ol* eight ; and tht- Dutch having entreated that some of their company would go to their ship, ^< vcn followed them. When they were arrived, they testified their s(frprise and admiration at the hi|j?ht of so large a vessel, and considering the manner and orcUr with which it was ejpiipiKd, they examined it with curiosity on all sides : they were afterwartls pivscnted with meat, butter, and cheese, which they would not taste, because it was a last day with thcni ; but they ate voraciously of pickled hening, swallowing it whole with the head aiid tail. They also made them a present of u trough full, for which they shewed much gratitude ; tht-v' tlien carried them back with the yacht to Tnmc Hay. On the thirty. first of Aug' st Barentsz sailed along th"' northern coast of Welgats, where they found some of duyac men called Samoiedes, and which aie regarded as sa- vages, though they are not absolutely so ; for the Dutch having penetrated a league into the country, and having met with twenty of them, had some conununication. It it* true there was sf) great a mist that they did not perceive the Dutch ; and when die latter 'discovered them 3 icy were already very near, and beheld them in two companies. The interpreter being detached, s»nd havinfir adviuiccd in order to speak to them, one of the Samoit-des also alvanccd, and approaching he drew an arrow from his quiver, threatenuig to kill the intcqireter. The latter having no arms was much alarmed, and cried out in i' Rtissian language, Do not shoot, we are friends. The Samoiedc imme- diately laid do his bow ud arrow, and signified that he was willing to dis(;ourse. The interpreter liaviu(^ s;\ida second time, IVt nrc friends : IVelU said he, then you are wet' come : and afterwards tfiey sauted each othtr, by inclining the head to the ground, after the Russian manner. j« The interprtner having asked some questions conreniing the state and situation of tlic country and s. a which they observed oo the east, after sainng Uirough the straits of the Weigats ; he answered, that when tl|e\ should have passed a point which was at the dis- tanee ofaboutfiv«e days journey, and wltich he infUcated to lie to the N. E. ihejr would meet with a great sea to tiie S. E. adding that tie was particularly acquainted with thht, one of his coMfMHiions having been sent there from their king with troops under hb command. The Samoiedes ar* clothed in the manner in which savages are represented ; and in ♦iuj. v/'. ticular they may be called savq|;es : but on no other accoimt do they merit the uppclittuon, for they exhilil a considerable portion of good sense i their behaviour. * The r clothing consists of skins of rein-deer, coit^ring them \ k with much civi* Uty, and immediutcly iK-gan to eat it ; but while eating, he looked around, and altcn* tivilv ot)»erved what they were doing. '1 iuir sledges are always ready, and are drawn hy n a*in-dccr or two, which run so iwiftly, that thev carry a man or two with greater celerity than honest could do. One of die Dutch having fired his gun towards the sea, they were so terrified that they ran and jimipi-d like madmen : tliey were (Mcified, however, when they understood no harm was mtcntled to them. The Dutch gave them to understand that those were the arms they used instead of bows. But in order to make them understand the power nnd use of this kind of arms, one of the Dutch took a flat stone, as large as the half of the palm of the hand, and placed it at a distance on an eminence. The Samoiedes, who comprchcnded by the signs which were made tliat he wan atx)ut to perform something singular, assembled to the number of about lifty or sixty, and placed themselves near the stone : the Hollander fired, and having hit the mark, Uic stone was broken to pieces, at which the spectators evinced u. great astonishment. At length they parted with signs of amity on both sidr^ and when the Dutch were in their yaclit, they once more took off th<'ir cap»* and srninde'd the trumpets ; to which the SamoiedcM liaving answered in their manner, they returned to their sledges and seated themselves. A litde time afterwards they saw one of them return to the shore to reclaim a statue, of very rude carving, which one of the Dutch had carried away. He came on board the yacht, and-lMiving seen the statue, signified to them that they had been guilty of a very bad action in taking it away. They returned it to htm, and it was first placed on un eminence near the shore, from which it tms afterwards carried away in a sledge. It would ap])ear from this and many other occasions that these stitues arc the gods of the Samoiedes. Near a hundred \vcre also found on the {mint of Weigats, which had been named the Cape of Idols, not better finished than the other : they were a littk; rounded at the top, and fan the middle was a small elevation serving for a nose, with two lit^e holes above for the eyes, and an6ther under the nose fbr the nioudi. A quantity of ashes and bones of rein-deer were observed before them, which shewed tliat the Sa- moiedes had oficred sacrifices to them. # The Dutch hs^ving set sail on the second of September, two hours before suiVrise, found themselves at sunset at the distance of a les^e from Tvdst-hoek, to die east of that cape ; and sailing north till noon, performed about mx leagHts of their course. They nilerwardn met widi so nuich ice, die wind wa-) so changeable, and there arose so thick a fog, that they were under the necessity of making short tacks ; and at kngth they drifted to the east of the Isle of the States,^vithin musket shot of the land. They landed on the islan4t where they met with a great quantity' of hares, many of which they killed. On the sixth of September some sailors again landed to seek for a certain sort of stone, a species of diamond, of which a sufficient quantity is also foimd in the Isle of the States. During this search two of the sailors sleeping by one another, a white bear, very lean, approached them softly, and seized one by tlie nape of the neck. The sailor, not knowing what it was, cried out, who has seized me thus behind ? His comj^nion having raised his head said. Holloa ! my dear friend, it is a bear ; and imme- diately rising ran away. The bear bit the unfortunate man in several parts of the head, T!Sl 4 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V // {/ / * ^\% it. y. 4 ^ "♦■ 1.0 I.I 1.25 '■■la iiM !-:' 1132 1.4 IM 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 % CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institiit canadien de microreproductions historiques TO THE NORTH OF CUKOPK. 89 and havinfr quite mangled it, sucked the blood. The rest of die persons who were on shore, to tne number of twenty, immediately ran with their firelocks and pikes, and found the bear devouring the body, which, on ' cicing them, ran towards them with incrcdiblc fury, threw himself ui)on one of them, carried liim away, and tore him to pieces, which so terrified them that they all fled. Those who remained in the vessel and the yacht, seeing them thus flee and return towards the shore, jumped into the boats and rowed with all their force to receive them. When they had landed and beheld this lamentable spectacle, they encouraged the others to return with them to the combat, that all together might attack this ferocious animal ; but there were some who could not be induced to it. Our companions arc- dead, said they, we cannot preserve their lives ; if wc could still have this hope, we would go with as much ardour as you to deliver diem : but there is nothing to be aspired at, but a victory from which will accnie neither honour nor advantage, and for whicli we must expose ourselves to a frightful danger. We can either kill or take the bear, and probably this will happen, but it will cost the life of one of us ; and the glory of the cap- ture or death of this animal ought not to be sought at this price. Notwithstanding these reasons three of them advanced a little, while the bear continued to devour his prey, without disturbing himself at the sight of thirty men together, so near him. THese three were Cornelius Jacobs, pilot, and Hans Van Uftelen, purser of the vessel of Barentsz, and William Gysen, pilot of the yacht. The two pilots having fired three times without hitting thv. animal, the purser ad- vanced a little farther and shot the bear in the head close by the eye, which did not cause him to quit his prey ; but holding the body always by the neck which he was de- vouring, carried it away as yet quite entire. Nevertheless they then perceived that he began himself to totter, and the purser going towards him with a Scotchman, they gave him several sabre wounds, and but him to pieces, without his 'abandoning his prey. At length the pilot Gysen having ^ven him a violent blow with the butt end of his fire- lock on the muzzle, which brought him to the ground, the purser leaped upon him and cut his throat. The two bodies half devoured were interred in the isle of the States, and the skin of the bear was carried to ^.msterdam. On the ninth of September they again set sail, but they met with so great a quantity of ice banks, which struck against die vessel, that they were not able to pass, and were under the necessity of returning in the evening, and anchoring in the same place from which theyhad set sail. The admiral and the yacht of Rotterdam touched on the rocks, which however, did them no damage. On the eleventh of the same month all the vesseb again sailed towards the sea of Tar- tary, without being able to advance farther than before, on account of the ice : thus they retiuTied to the Weigats, and steered towards the cape of tlie Crosses. On the four- teenth the weather tecame a littfe finer, the wind veered^to the N. W. and the currents set in with rapidity from tlte sea of Tartary. ^ On the same day they crossed over from the other^ide ^ the Weigats to the main land, in order to sound me channel, and pierced through the extremity of the gulf behind the Isle of the Tsui, where they found a little wooden house and a large channel. On the following morning theyliauled their anchors on board, and raised their topmasts, under the idea of endeavouring a second time to continue their voyage ; but the admiral, not being of this opinion, remained at anchor. On the morning of the twenty-fifth they saw the ice enter into the Weigats, on the eastern side, so that they were constrained to weigh anchor, and to depart from the strait by the west, in order to direct their course homewards. On the thirtieth the fleet was vot. I, N 1i- 00 THIRD VOYAGE OP THE DUTCH at the island named Wardhuys, and it remained there at anchor until the tenth of Octo- ber, when it continued its course ; and on the eighteenth of November entered the Meusc, after a voyage of four months and sixteen days. THIRD VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH AND ZEALANDERS, BY THE NORTH, ALONG NORWAY, MOSCOVY, AND TARTARY, TO PASS TO THE KINGDOMS OF CATHAY AND CHINA, BY PERMISSION OF THE COUNCIL OF THE CITY OF AMSTER- DAM, 1596. AFTER these two voyages, which had failed of the desired success, the idea of un- dertaking a third was not relinquished; but their high mightinesses were unwilling to countenttiice the attempt. Nevertheless it was decreed, that if there were individuals, cities, or corporations, willing to bear the expences of the voyage, they would not be prevented ; and that if they could furnish sufficient proofs of having succeeded, and passed, the state would make a considerable recompense in money, and the sum was stipulated. The council of the city of Amsterdam, which was not discouraged, ordered two vessels to be equipped, at the commencement of the year 1596, and the crews engaged under two conditions, which were, that they should be paid according to a certain rate, if they returned without having succeeded ; or according to another certain rate, if they accomplished their design. The recompense to be made in the latter case was consi- derable. They took as few mairied persons as posable, lest their affection for their families should occasion them to think too much of return. The two vessels were ready to sail at the beginning of May. James Heemskerk was appointed master and steward, as before, and William Barentsz first pilot of one, and John Cornelisz Ryp was appointed steward of the other. On the eighteenth of May they departed from Vlie, and on the twenty. second were ill sight of Hitlandt of Faverhill.* On the thirtieth they found themselves in latitude 69° 24', and on the first of June they experienced no night. On the second of June, at half past ten in the morning, they saw a surprising pheno- menon in the heavens. On each side of the sun appeared a mock sun, with a rainbow passing through tliese three suns. There were besides two other rainbows, one surround- ing the suns, the other crossing the true sun, the lowest part of which was elevated 28° above the horizon. At noon they observed the altitude with the astrolabe, and found themselves in latitude 71°. The vessel of John Cornelisz being always to windward of that of WiUiam Barentsz, without coming up to him, induced Barentsz to stand to the N. E. in order to come to the wind and join him, thinking that he lay too much to the west ; and indeed this ap. peared in the end. In the evening, when they had joined, Barentsz told him they lay too much to westward, and that he must bear to the east, Cornelisz answered, that hie did not wish to enter the straits of Weigats. They then sailed N. E. and by N. and were nearly sixty leagues in the main sea. Barentsz was of opinion that they should rather bear to the E. N. E. than to the N. N. E. on account of their having drifted so much to the west. He even thought that they should steer to the east, at least for some time, and until they had recovered what they had • Probably FaverliUl in Shetland. * ' ' " TO TIIF, NORTH OF V'.UllOPr.. 9[ lost. But Cornelisz would not yield to these reasons ; on the contrary, he j)ci listed in the desif:fn of always running in a N. N. E. direction, convinced that if they bore to the cast th'jy would enter the Weigats. Barentsz was finally compelled to join him, and steer N. E. and by N. whereas they should have stood to the N. E. and even have steered more to the E. On die fifth of June they began to see ice, which so surprised them tliat they imagined at first they saw swans, and those on deck cried out they beheld a quantity swimming. The others who were below having ascended to the ciuarter deck, and considered thr tiling with a calmer eye, told them that the swans were just converted into flukes of ice : in fact, ,.. j i -ill MW-fM-lk^ TO THE NORTH OK EUKOPE. 93 from the Isle of Bears, which is beyond Norway. It is under a climate which the ancients had reason to believe uninhabitable on account of its cold. There is no country in the world in which the nights are shorter. During the six months of summer the light never wholly fails ; and during two months of the six months of winter, when the sun is beyond the line, and in proportion as it recedes, the days arc only of twelve, ten, eight, mid finally of one hour ; it docs not cease when it is at the lowest, and in the middle of this long night, to rise twelve degrees and a half above the horizon, that is, in latitude 80°, and during the twenty-four hours is seen the light of day-break ; thus, according to Ptolemy and others, the dawn may appear, when the sun is only eighteen degrees under tlic horizon. *' But although die day is of such length, and the sun shines for so long a time, with, out intermission in this rigorous climate, it does not prevent the summer from being the shortest and the least warm of all the countries north of the line. The ice has sometimes been seen so thick and strong on the thirteenth of June along the coasts, and at the mouth of the harbours, that the vessels could not enter. The snow itself, which always remains in certain places, had melted so litde in others, that the rein dt-er could find nothing to graze on, and were become perfectly mengre. v ♦• The cause of this excessive cold and these long winters is, that the sun never rises higher on the horizon than 32° 20' : thus its rays strike the earth obliquely ; so that only glidmg over it, instead of penetrating, they cannot sufficiently warm it. By the same reason, the rays of the sun are not of sufficient strength to dissipate the vapours and fogs which rbe from the earth, and which remain on the mountains and the sea, often prevent- ing the crews of the vessels from seeing farther than the length of a ship. ** It is, be»des, by the same principle that this land, of which to the present time, that is to say, when this relation was published, only the coasts are known, appears overspread with high mountains, whose summits are perpetually covered with snow ; and that in the plains which intersect them, neither trees, bushes, nor fruits, are seen ; of verdure there is nothing but a short and thick moss, of a yelloMdsh colour, through which shoot litde blue flowers. Nevertheless some mariners assert that they liave observed a green plant like h&y. " The ammals which are seen there are white bears, larger than oxen, and stags, or rein-deer : the latter feed on the moss, and during the space of a month which some vessels remained off these shon?s they were observed to become so fat, that the flesh was excellent. " They ..ave very crooked horns, and are rather smaller than stags: they are unaccus- tomed to the sight of men, as may be concluded from what has been said, yet are not starded at seeing them. Sometimes they have been wounded with mnsquets, and have run towards those who fired, as if to seek succour or refuge in their arms, and struck them so violently as to occasion their falling to the ground. " On these coasts are also seen white and gray foxes, and even black. The English have found horns, which the connoisseurs pretend to belong to the unicorn. Never- theless those which have been brought to Holland have not disclosed to what species they belong. " A great quantity of whales, of different species, resort to the mouths of the harbours, many of which are eighty feet long, and have so much fat, that from it much oil is derived. Some have no fins on the back ; but at the mouth have pendants, resembling great beards, sometimes a fathom and more long. Six hundred pieces are draw from the same mouth : they are situated above, and ranged like the teeth of a comb, in the place vrb&CG other fish have their teeth, and there are only those above. The front and ii r y , riii^r- 94 THIRD VOYACJE OF TUB DUTCri back ones are very small, so that in general they do not reckon on a greater numl)cr than four huiidrtd. It is the only considerable profit which can be derived from this coast. *' On each side of the back part of tlie head the whales have large fins, whea- they are more easily struck with the harpoon, and more dangerously wounded. When they are wounded, and the blood runs from the head, they force the water and blood through the vent which they have above the head as high as the mast: when they have exhausted their strength by struggling, the boats approach, and throw darts on their head, and in the aperture. "The whales have a thick black skin, covered with a black cuticle, and smooth as satin : their f(M)d is a small fish, called by the French a sea-flea, and which is not so large as the samphire plant : they swim with the mouth open, and swallow this little fish while swimming, shutting their mouth as soon as it enters. " There are also white whales, which are of little value. Whitings are also found, but in small quantity. There are many aquatic birds, and particularly sea-gulls, which gather on dead whales ; two kinds of divers ; loms, which proixjrly are a species of parrot, geese, mallards, ducks which lay very large eggs, and a great (|uantity of wild geese. •' A litde farther norUi are found sea-cows, which may be named sea-elephants, for they much resemble the elephant by the size of the body, and by their teeth : as to their skin, though it be very thick, and that some have been seen at Amsterdam weighing four hundred pounds, it is, however,. not esteemed, because it is unequal and foul. They have much lard, which may be clarified so as to afford oil. When they see another cow of their species which is dead, they assemble in great numbers, and placing themselves upon it, they heat it, and occasion it to corrupt. " At five leagues still farther north, where are channels of fresh water, there are seen marine dogs, of the same nature as those which are seen in these provinces, that is to say, the United Provinces. " This is all the knowledge relative to the state of this country, which was possessed at the time of the publication of the present relation." On the twenty- third of June a part of the crew landed, with the intention of observing the variation of the compass : while they were thus occupied a white bear swam towards the vessel, and would have entered, if he had not been perceived. They fired some shot, when the bear returned to the ishmd in which were the Jther part of the sailors. Those who remained on board seeing him return, sailed immediately towards land, and shouted with all their strength to warn their companions, who hearing these cries, imagined the vessel had struck on some rock. The bear itself was so frightened, that it took another route leading from the island, at which those on board were much rejoiced, for their com- panions had no arms. With respect to the variation of the compass, they found it to differ 16^. On the twenty.fourth they sailed, and approached very near to shore, where having landed, they found two teeth of the sea-cow, each weighing six pounds, and also another small one. On the twenty-fifth they sailed along the coast, in 79° latitude, and having discovered a large gulf, they entered it, and advanced about ten leagues ; but were obliged to tack about quickly, in order to depart, on account of contrary winds. On the twenty-eighth they doubled a cape lyin^ on the western coast, where was so great a quantity of birds, that Uiey cast themselves m great flights against the sails of the vessel. On the twenty-ninth they were obliged to bear off from the land on account of the ice, and they arrived in latitude 76° 50', ^^mii~^.~^. ~-- mrmarmkamm^^' TO THE NORTFI OF FJTHOnR. 95 On the first of July, they were a^ain in sight of the Iskitul of Boars, whin John Comclisz, with the other officers of his vessel, went on board that of VVilllani Barentsz, where not being able to agree as to the route they should take, it was finally settled that each should steer the course he judged proper. In con'se(juence Curru Ti! cated himself by approaching the land, though with extreme difficulty ; and when he liad moored himself, the wind veered to the S. £. wliich occabiuncd him to change his anchorage. While the crew were all engaged in performing this change, the great noise Hh y made awoke a bear, who was sleepmg quite close. He immediately ran towards the vessel, and obliged all the labourers to quit their work in order to defend themselves. The bear received a musket ball in his body, and fled thus wounded to the other side of the bland, where he placed himself on a bank of ice. They followed him, and seeing the shallop sailing towards him, he threw himself again into the water and endeavoured to get back to the island. They intercepted his passage, and wounded him on the head with a hatchet. They endeavoured to follow up the blow, but every time the hatchet was raised, he plunged into the water and avoided the blows with such dexterity, that it was with great difliculty he was killed. On the sixteenth ten men in the yacht sailed towards Novaya Zemlia. They drew the schuyt on the highest part of the ice, which resembled a litUe mountain, and observed the altitude, in order to know in which direction the main land lay. They found it to lie S. S. £. and afterwards still more to the S. This kd them to tlunk, though veiy unsea- sonably, that the continent extended towards the south. At tlie same time they ob- served tlie water to the S. £. to be free, and imagined the success of their voyage was s' TO Tiff, vonrii OF i:uropk> 97 lie insured ; so that they were cxtrcmcty impatient to cany this picas'uig intelligence to Burentsz. On the eighteenth they g»)t reocly and wished to sail, but in vain, for having navigat. cd with great UilUculty, they Averc obliged to return to the place l"n)ni wlucU they de- parted. On the nineteenth they doubled Cajx; Desire, and conceived frcsh hopes of lx;ing able to soil. Nevertheless they got entangled again in the ice, luid were obliged to put Ijack. On the twenty.fu'st they enteaxl Icy HarlKHir, tuid remained at anchor there during the night. On the following morning they left it, and moored tlnir vessel to a bank of ice on which they mounted, and admired its figure, as being of very singular forn^ Tliis bank was covered with earth at the top, and nearly forty eggs were found. The colour was not that of ice, but of u sky blue. Those who were there, reasoned much concerning this object. Some said it was in fact ice, while the others maintained that it was a frozen land. However this might Ix.', tlie bank was of very great height, being about eighteen fathoms under water, and ten above. On the twenty.fifth of August, at three in the aflernoon, the tide again began to force the ice along ; and they imagined they could sail by die south of Novaya Zemlia towards the west of the Wcigats. For as Uiey had passed Novaya Zemlia, and not liuving found any passage open, they had no more hopes of being able to proceed farther, and prepiuvd to return to Holland, when being arrived in the Bay of the Currents they were mi|)edcd by the ice, which wns so thick that they werir oblig(>d to put back. On the twenty-sixth, having entered lev Harbour, they remained there enclosed by the ice which floated from all parts, and rolled along with great force* ; so tliat they were not able to extricate themselves. They even had nearly lost three men, who were on the ice endeavouring to make an opening. But happily for Uiese three men, as the vessel fell back, and the ice was carried along by the same side the vessel was forced froni, and that they were active and strong, eacn of them took so well his opix>rtunity, that one caught hold of the tacks, the other the sheet, and the third the bight of the main brace, which hung out of the back part of the ship ; and Uius they were all three most mira- cuk)usly saved, so nearly had they been carried away by the ice. In the evening of the same day they came to the west of Icy Harbour, where they were obliged to winter, and suffered a |;reat deal, as much by cold, as the want of necettom with both its extremities. In this imminent danger, the shallop was let down, in order to save themselves in case of necessity. They also ViMsted a flag, as a signal to those on shore to return on board ; at the sight of which they made all haste to repair there, though they thought that the vessel had already starteo. On the tAventy-cighth, the ice being separated a little, the ship was recovered in its Station : but before this vna quite accomplished, Barentsz went with tlie other pilot to vbit the prow. While they were there engaged, and on their knees and elbows in order to measure, the upper works of the vessel started, and in opening made so dreadful a cracking that they believdl themselves lost. On the twenty-ninth, when it was completely in iu» station, they endeavoured by means of iron crows and other in- strumeiUs to break and separate the ice, which lay in heaps, but without success ; so VOL. I. o I I' ' t I "^ 98 Tnilili VOYA^K OK Tlir. tHiTCII that they hud no lunger hopcti uf being able to di^cngugc thcmaclves and to have a free lutvi^ation. On the iliirtlith th^- flakes of ice In-gan u^ain to gathtT in heaps more and more, around the vessel, to whieh a sfronif wind contributed much, and the nnow which lell in thii k Hukes, and increaited the height of these d;iiigeroiis rantpartH which Mirroinided it. There waH a dreadl'til cracking every when; t)otn within and around the Hhip, and they were in da'ad of seeing it hurst and break t(.t nieces. As the ice was much more hea|)ed up under «he vessel on the side whence the cur- rent proceeded, than the other, it nrst lay very nuich inclined; but finally it gathered in heaps in the same manner on the other side, and by this means the vessel was set up- right agiiin, and lifted on these banks of ice, us if it hud iK'cn intentionally raised with strews or other machines. On the thirty-first more flakes of ice floated towards those at the head, and en- tirely raised up the prow ; so that the stem was elevated lour or five feet higher than the rest of the vessel, and the stern wiw sunk between the ice, as in u pit. They were in hopes tliis incident would preserve the rudder, and that the flukes of ice would no more strike against it : but this did not nrevcnt its breaking, as well as the tiller. Never- theless, if it was not abh- to save the rudder, there is every apixarance that it contributed the most to preserve the body of the vessel. For if the stern frame had been exposed to the flukes of ice which incessantly floated, like the prow, they would have lifted up the whole vessel, and finally overwt it, or even it might have filled the lower part with water, which was much ftu vd. Under this apprehension ihey had already got the shallop and yawl on the ice to re- tin; to, and after having waited for four hours in anxious exjM ctation of what might h ppen, the ice Ixgan to separate, and was carried away by the current. They all re- giirded this new incident as a deliverance sent by God, and laboured with all their might to refit the rudder and tiller. It was afterwards judged pmper to unhang it, in order that if they were again beset with the ice it might run no more hazard. On the first of September the flakes of ice began again to heap t()g( ther, so that the whole body of the vessel was raised two feet, und nevertheless remained entire. In the afternoon they made the necessary preparations to draw the yawl and shallop to shore. On the second the vessel was still more raised by new fliikes, which occasioned it to crack so dreadfully, and even to stitrt in several places, that notwithstanding tlie bad weather they resolved to drag the yawl to land, with thirteen casks of biscuits, and two small casks of wine. On the third the vessel was beset with fi-esh flakes of ice, which united with those which already surrounded it, and held it so fast. Then the after-piece which was at the stern post separated, but the sheathing still remained. The cable which was an- chored to the wind also broke, as well as a new cable which they had fastened to the ice : so that it was to be wondered at that the body of the vessel should remain entire, considering the ' >)lence, the quantity, and the size of the flakes of ice, some of which were seen floating as high as the salt mountains seen in Spain, and were only at musket shot distance from the vessel. On the fifth, after supper, the banks of ice pressed so against the vessel, that it re- maincd quite inclined on one side, and was greatly injured, though always without separating. Nevertheless, as they imagined it could not resist much longer, *; ., carried to shore an old fore-stui, powder, lead, fireIo<, ^n order to make a tent near the place where was the yawl. Tbey also carried more rvi./.iit, and wine, with carpenters* instniments, to refit tne shallop, if necessary. Jbesi'iku 'Mrc was TO TIIR NORTH 0»' IM'ROM:. 99 th an- •o little water about the vessel, thut ttu'y were not ubie at om- timo to diiuv up a (nil bucket. On the seventh, five .suiios^t having lauded, two of them nfurncd on iioaiu, and tl\r three uthcni walked lor two leuKUCM into du* country, whea' they h;»w a river of Irish water, uikI u (|uantity of wockI which had Hoated on its hanks. 'l'!uy also saw 'rac(!«i olreirj deer and elks, at least as well as they could judjjje from die niarks of the fttf, and the difleant size of these vestiges, such as 'licy am>eared imprinted on the f^round. On the night of the ninth two Ixarn came close to the vessel, which they put to Hij^hi by the noise of trumix;ts and guns which they fired, although none of them t(K)k iHat on account of the fog. On tl»c eleventh, Ixring calm weaiht r, eight sailors well arni(d went on shore, in ord«r to 'tec if the three others who had already l)et;n there had well observed every thing, ut 'I if they were not mistaken in the report ihty had made concerning the wotxl on the bunks ol the river. I'or after having Ikcii loekid in the ice ut diflerent times, and extricated themselves from it, they founil tlKln^elves this time enclosed in such umuiUKi, that they weil perceived, it being the season of atitmnn and winter upprouching, there was no more room to hot)e diey should be able to disen- gage themselves. Thus preparing to pass the winter, tney had held counsel all together OS to what was to be done, in wiuting what it .. ..ad picusc God to order concerning tliem. It was therefore resolved to fortify themselves against the cold, and the attacks of wild bcaHi:., iind to hnild u hut for this puri^w o. "I luy had a favourable opportimity for executing their design. On tlie shore were found even whole trees with the nwts, which had been brought either from Turtiiry, or Moscovy, for there were none on the spot ; so that they foimd the three first sailors had made a faithfid report. This beginning of good fortune induced them to hofie that Heiven would grant them here- after greater favours, and thiit since it furnished them with the means of building ia retreat to worm themselves, and to prevent their perishing by cold, which would have been inevitable withou* this as&istance, it would also facilitate to them the me;u)s of re. turning to their native country. On the fitteenth of the same month of September, in the morning, the man who stood centinel perceived three bears, one of which remained behind a. bank f)f ice, while the others advanced towards the vessel. As the crew were preparing to fire, one of the bears was about to put his head into a tub wherr* some meat lay in soak, at a con- siderable distance from the vessel, because there. was no water in the part where it lay. At the same instant the bear received u musket ball in his head, which laid him dead. The other bear remained as if thunderstruck : he attentively regarded his companion stretched on the place, and seeing him make no motion, he smelt to him, and at length went away. They followed him with their eyes, and as they perceived him return, j id raise himself on his hind legs in order to cast himself on the sailors, they fired and shot him in the belly, which caused him to fall again on Uh feet, and then he fled, making a great howhng. They opened the dead bear, and having taken out the entrails, they K laced him on his four legs, in order to see if he would be sufficiently frozen to carry im to Holland, if they had the good fortune to extricate the vessel. The work of the building of a hut was at length begun, by preparing a sledge to convey the wood. At this time the sea was ali frozen to the thickness of two fingers. On the sixteenth they brought four rafters from a league distant, by walking always on the ice or the snow. During that night it still froze of the thickness o^ two fingers. On the seventeenth thirteen men departed to seek for wood, ten of which conveyed it, while the other three cut it. On the twenty.first tlie frost increased to mch a degree, 'X «< 100 THIRD VOYAGE OP TUB DUTCH that it was necessary to traii^port the kitchen articles to the lower part of the hold, evtrrjr thing freezing in the cook room. On the twenty-third the carpenter died, and on the twenty .fourth was buried in a cleft of a mountain, near a water-fall, for the earth was so frozen that it was impossible to dig a grave. On the twenty-fifth the rafters were ftxedj and the building began to assume its form. On the twenty -sixth the wind blew from the west and the sea was free, but the vessel not being disengaged, the crew only beheld tliis mitigation of the weather with vexation. The whole of the crew did not consist at that fime of more than sixteen i^ien, of whom some one was frequently sick. On the twenty-seventh it froze so hard, that one of the crew, being at work, putting a nail into his mouth, as is the custom of workmen, the skin came away when he drew it out, and the blood followed. The cold latterly be- came so intense, that it was only an extreme de»re of preserving life, wliich could have enabled them to support the hardship of their labour. On the thirtieth die wind was £. and £. S. £. and it snowed so hard on the preceding night, and all this day, that the height of the snow prevented their going in quest of wood. They made a great fire along the building to thaw the earth, and raise it around like a rampart, in order to form a better inclosure, but in vain, for the earth was frozen so hard and to such a depth, that it was impossible to soften it, and if they had been deter- mined to accomplish it in all events, it would have consumed too great a quantity of wood. On the second of October the hui was in an advanced state, and near it was raised a May-pole of frozen snow. On the fifth the sea was ub»ci ved to be open as far as the eye could extend, notwithstanding which the ice about the vessel did not melt ; so that it seemed as if they had built a wall on purpose to raise it two or three feet, and k was found that the water in this part was frozen to the bottom, that is* to say, to the depth of three fathoms and a half. On the same da^ the ftx}nt cabin was cut up, and the plauiks were used to cover the hut, in form of a roof, with two sloping ; zen in such a manner that they could have no hopes of seeing it soon disengaged, they carried back the stream anchor on board, lest it should be lost under the snow, and that they might use it in the following summer, hoping to find then some &vourable occasion for returning to their country. In the mean time the sun, the sight of which was the only benefit and pleasure which remuned, beginning to abandon them, they made all possible diligence to convey on their sledges the remaindei' of the victuals in the vessel, and the rigging necessary to equip the shalk)p, in order to carry them to tiieir hut. On the twenty- fifdi of the same month of October, while occupied in this work, the master, who happened to raise his eyes, saw three bears behind the vessel, who were advancing to- wards the sailors. He cried out loudly, in order to frighten them. On their side, the sailors threw their straps on the ground, to put themselves in a state of defence. Luckilv two halberts were found on the sledge : the master took one, and Gerard de Veer the other. The others ran towards the vessel, but one of them fell into a chasm * A BtroDg and medicinal beer, made with the berries of sweet briar. , '^ i(^ THmn VOYAflK OF THE DUTCH in the ice ; an accident which miide all the rest shudder, thinking the bears would inevi- tably devour him. Instead o( which these ferocious beasts pursued those who fled towards the vessel ; during which time the master, with De Veer and the man who had fallen into the chasm, went round the vessel, and entered on the opposite side to the bears. These savage animals, seeing that they had entered, advanced furiously towards the vessel, where tne crew, having no other arms but the two halberts, on which they could not depend, endeavoured to divert their attention by throwing pieces of wood at their heads, and other things, after which they ran each time a piece was thrown, in the same manner as a dog runs after a stone. One of the sailors was sent into the cook room to strike a fire, and another to seek for some pikes. The more the sailor hastened, the less was he able to kindle any fire, so that there was no opportunity of using their firelocks. In the mean time the bears always returned to the assault with equal uiry. A halbert was thrown, which having struck the lai^st directly on the mouth, he began to retreat, and the others, who were considerably smaller, followed him slowly at a distance, and left the crew to the liberty of dragging their sledge to the hut On the twenty 'Sixth the greater part of the water was free close to the land, but the ice always continued about the vessel. On the twenty-seventh a white fox was killed, which they roasted ; it very much resembled the rabbit in taste. The same day they were em- ployed in mending and fixing the clock. They also prepared a lamp to bum m the night time, and for this purpose they used the fat of a bear, which they melted. On the twenty^ ninth they carried on sledges a quantity of the herbs and other things left by the sea on the shore, which they placed about the sail that enclosed the hut, that the cold might pe- netrate less through the planks, which were not let into each other, the bad weather not having permitted them to do otherwise. On the first of November, in the dusk of the evening, they saw the moon rise in the east, and the sun yet rose sufficiently high on the horizon to be perceived. On the second they saw the sun rise in the S. S. £.. and set near the S. S. W. but the whole of his disk did not appear above the horizon : he was only seen on the horizon itself, and a part of it remained concealed. On the same day they killed a fox with a blow of a hatchet, which they roasted. On the third the sun rose in the S. and by E. a little nearer the S. than the S. £. and set in the S. and by W. also a little nearer the S. and the top alone of its disk appeai^ed above the horizon, although the situation where they took altitude was as high as the top of the vessel, which lay dose. On the fourth it was no longer observed, although the weather was very serene. At this time the surgeon took a cask, or an emptvpipe, and made a bath of it, where they bathed one after another : from which they expenenced much benefit. On the same day they took a fox, this animal appearing ut that time while the bears were retired as welt as the sun, and did not again appear till the return of that star. As the sun had quitted the horizon, the moon had come to take its plnce, appearing all day and night without setting, when it was in its highest quarter. The sixth was so dull a day, that it could not be distinguished from the night, the more as the clock, which would have assisted them, had stopped ; so that not conceiving it to be day, all the people remained for a long time a-bed, without rising but on necessary occasions, and when they rose, they were not able to discern if the light they saw was that of the day or the moon. They even had much dispute concerning it, but finally found that it was4ay, and even the middle of the day. On the eighth they distributed the -remainder of the bread, and the portions were fixed at four pounds and five ounces fur eight days, instead, as formerly, of the same ini m i i ^lHi t »«i 10 THE NORTH OP EUHO!'E. 103 portion only lasting for five or six days. As to the fish and meat, they imagined there was no necessity of distributing them; but for the drink , they were in want of it, and what beer remained possessed no strength nor taste. On the eleventh they fixed a net made of rope yam on a hoop, to catch foxes : so that when a fox was underneath, he re- mained there caught as in a trap, and they could draw the trap and the fox into the hut. The same day they took a fox. On the twelfth the distribution of the wine was fixed at two small cups each day, and they had nothing besides to drink but water from melted snow, which they took from witliout. On the eighteenth the master distributed to each person a piece of thick cloth, to cover themselves, or to use in any manner they should choose against the cold. On the twenty-ninth the chest of sheets was opened, which were also distributed to make shirts, for the pressing necessity obliged them to seek every method to relieve their persons. On the twentieth, the weather being tolerably fine, they washed their linen, but it was not perfectly waslied: for as soon as they drew it from the boiling water, in order to wring it, it froze. It even continued frozen .. ;ar the fire on the outer side, and only the side facing the fire thawed ; so that it was necessary to plunge the other side again into the boiling water, in order to thaw it. On the twenty-second they ate together a large Dutch cheese, one of seventeen which they still possessed, and the remainder \i'ns divided, that each man might manage his por- tion at discretion. On the twenty-third, as they saw foxes, they constructed traps of thick planks, which tliey fumbhed with stones in order to render them the heavier, and fixed short stakes in the ground about the place where the planks fell, in order to prevent the foxes from dig^ng, and escaping; and they took some by this method. On the twenty-iburth two men who were indisposed bathed, and on leaving the bath the surgeon made them take a purgative medicine, from which they derived much benefit. On the twenty-sixtli, twenty-seventh, and twenty-eighth, there fell such a prodigious quantity of snow, tliat they remained buried in their hut, without being able to leave it on any occasion whatever. But the weather clearing up on the twenty-ninth, they began to dig the snow with shovels, made an opening, and finally got out, by crawling through the h(4e they had dug. They found their traps covered with snow, but disengaged them, and on the same day took a fox ; an aliment which became necessary, there being no other to be found in the snow, even when it was possible to remove it. By this they were also furnished with skins, to make caps proper to secure their heads from the seve- rity of the cold. On the first of December the snow still environed their hut on all sides ; which occa- sioned so great a smoke when they wished to make a fire, that they were obliged to lay in bed almost all day, except the cook, who at length arose to prepare some victuals. On the second day they made use of stones, which they heated and placed around them in their beds, because the cold and smoke being equally insupportable, they could scarcely find means to protect themselves at the same time from both of those evils. On the third, while in their beds, they heard the ice of the sea crack with so horrible a mnse, that they imagined the mountains of ice which they had seen during the summer, and which had appeared of so many fathoms in height, were detached, and heaping upon one another. In the mean time, as during two or three days that they had not so much fire as usual, it fi'oze so liard within the hut, that on the floor and walls was ice of the thickness of two fingers, and there was some even in their beds where they lay. They then prepared the sand-glass of twelve hours, and took care to keep it in goeid order, that they might mp\ 104 Tllini* VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH know the time, for the frost had suspended the motion of the dials, though they had increased the counterpoises. On the sixth the cold was so great, that not being able to support it any loneer, they regarded each other with languishing looks and pity, believing the cold would still in- crease, and extinguish their lives : in fact, however great they made the fire, they could no more warm themselves. The dry wine of Serez, which is of a very hot nature, also froze then, and they were obliged to thaw it on the days of distribution, which was per- formed every other day, when each man had half a pint, and after that they had only water, a drink very little fit for their condition, and the cold which overwhelmed them, and besides it was snow water. The seventh was as sad a d?y as the preceding. This day they consulted together as to the best means of resisting the cold : it was resolved to fetch from the vessel the pit- coal which was there, because it affords great heat, and bums for a lon^ time. In the evening they made a lai^ fire of this coal, which warmed them surprismgly ; but they thought not of the return and the sad effects this pleasure might possess. This warmth, which had done them so much good, they were mlling to preserve as much as possible, and for this purpose they entirely closed the windows, and went to bed, very contented to lie so warmly, which rendered them gayer than ordinary, and occasi(med them to talk to- gether for a long time after being in oed. In the end they found themselves all attacked with vertigos and swimmings in the head, some more than others, which they perceived by the means of one of them, who, being sick, could less support them, and made lamentations. They all found themselves in excessive pmn, not being able to stand up : some however crawled to the chimney and door, and opened them ; but the man who opened the door fainted, and fell down on the snow. De Veer, whose head was near to the door, having heard the fall, threw some vinegar in the face of the man who had fallen, and brought him to himself. When the door was opened, the cold, which had done them so much harm, viras of ser- vice, and recovered them ; witliout it they must all have inevitably expired during the fainting which seized them. The master dbtributed to eacli a glass of wine to strengthen their spirits. On the ninth, tenth, and eleventh, the weather was fine and clear, and the sky starry ; yet the cold increased to so great a degree, that those who have not felt it are unable to conceive : the leather of their shoes froze on the feet as hard as if it had been horn, so that they were of no more service. They made a kind of covering, 'resembling large slippers, of the upper part of sheep skins, which they might wear with three or four pair of socks over one another, in order to warm their feet : their garments were even quite white with snow and frost : when they remained without sufficiently long, the pustules and pimples on their body, face, and ears also, were frozen. On the fourteenth of the same month of December they observed the altitude, and found themselves in latitude 76*^. On the eighteenth seven of them went to observe the state of the vessel. The water had risen an inch ir eighteen days, during which time they had not visited the vessel, though it was not properly water, but ice, because the water fix)ze immediately it appeared above the ice. The water brought from Holland in casks was also coripletely frozen. The twenty-fourth, which was Christmas-eve, they cUsengaged their hut from the snow, in order that they might go out ; a labour they were at that time obliged to per- form every day. Althou^ there was no day-light, they were enabled to see to a tolerable distance, and they perceived there were several [^aces in the sea perfecdy free, which was occasioned, no doubt, when the violent cracking of the ice was heard. Churistmas- Jay n ii the TO Tire NORTH OP p.rnopF. 10.^ was dreary, yet they heard foxes around the hut, which they would have been well pleased to have caught, to use in the prchsing want. The lire no longer appeared to cast its accustomed heat, or at least it could not pass to near objects ; for their stockings were burned before their feet received any warmth, and the burning of the stockings would not liave been |x:rccived, if the smell had not been affected. In this manner passed the close of the yeiu", and in the midst of these suflferings the remainder of the crew of the vessel entered on the year 1597. The commencement was not less severe than the preceding year had been : they began it by again diminish- ing the portions of wine distributed every other day ; and as some of them feared it would be a considerable length of time before they Icil the place, though they always flattered themselves with tlVis hope, tl\ey spared that very necessary aliment, in order to make it last the longer, and to retain some in case of a more pressing occasion. On the fourth of January they put on their chimney a lance with a small piece of cloth, in order to know the quarter of the wind ; but to learn it, they did Vv'ell to ob- serve it in placing the linen, for it was frozen in a moment after, and became as stift' as a stick, without being able to play or turn. On tlie fiflh, the air being a little milder, they cleared their door, which had been shut for some days, and opened it : they made use of this opi^rtunity for regulating the most necessiiry matters ; among others, they cut some wood and carried it into the hut, that they might not be in want of it, if possible. The whole of the day being thus passed in laborious occupation, they recollected at night that it was twelfth-day, and entreated the master to ^lermit them to take at least some hours of recreation, among so many hardships and causes of grief. They were unwilling to use any thing but the wine they had voluntarily spared, and perhaps two pounds of flour, of which they made a kind of fritters cooked with oil ; a mess which W'iS eaten with as good an appedte as they would have eaten the greatest delicacies, if they had been at their own dwellbgs. They even celebrated the feast in all its cere- monies, drawing tickets, and the gunner was king of Novaya Zemlia ; a country perhaps more than two hundred leagues long, situated between two seas. On the tenth of January they found the water had risen nearly a foot in the vessel. On the twelfth they observed the altitude of the star called the Bull's Eye ; and it ap- peared to them that the altitude of this star, and some others besides, which they had observed, and that of the sun, accorded very well, and that they were in latitude 76°, but rather higher than lower. On the thirteenth the weather was clear and serene, and they perceived the light of day began to increase ; for on throwing a ball they perceived it roll, which they could not before. From this time they went out every day, and exercised themselves at walk- ing, running, throwing, in order to revive their limbs t they also remarked at the same time a redness m the sky, which was to them an aurora, the harbinger of the sun. The air was also found less cold during the day ; so that when thev had a good fire in the hut, there fell from the boards and partitions large pieces of ice, which thawed in the beds, a circumstance which never happened before, however great they made their fire ; but at night it always froze equally strong. On the eighteenth, as the wood-fuel diminished greatiy, they again used pit-coal, with the precaution of not closing the chimney, which prevented the former bad effects : nevertheless they judged it proper to be careful of it, as well as the wood, and still more 80, for they expected to reimbark in their litUe vessel without an^ covering, where they \vould have great occasion for coal. It was also necessary in the same manner to dimi- Eiish the portions of biscuit, as well on account of the quantity already consumed, as VOL. u v if* i I 106 (IIIKI) VUYA(iii OF THE UUTC'K because the casks were not exactly of the proper weight. Again, the capture of foxes was not so abundant as formerly ; and this retreat of tlie fox was still more grievous, as it was an indication of the speedy return of tlie bears, who in fact appeared very soon after. The twenty-fourth of January was a clear and fine day. James Heemskerk, Gerard de Veer, and another, took the opportunity of walking towards the southern shore of Novaya Zcmlia. De Veer, when tney least thought of it, perceived a side of the sun's disk ; full of joy, they all three returned quickly to carry this agreeable news to Barentsz and the others. Barentsz, an experienced mariner, would not believe it, because, ac- cording to all the computations, it would be fifteeen days before the sun could be seen in that altitude. The others maintained that they had seen it ; and this dispute gave rise to wagers. The twenty, fifth and twenty-sixth were so very misty that they could not see one another, so that those who had wagered that the sun had not yet appeared imagined they had already won : but the weather cleiuing up on the wenty-seventh, all the company together beheld the full disk of the star of day above the horizon ; whence it was easy to conclude that a part had been seen on the twenty- fourth. Nevertheless, as this discovery is contrary to the opinions of all writers, both ancient and modem, and that some may pretend that it is agamst the course of nature, and that it destroys the rotundity asrribed to the heavens and earth, they conceived there would be persons inclined to believe they were mistaken ; that they would say it was so long since they had beheld the day, that it was impossible to keep an exact account of the number of the days ; that probably they had passed some days in bed and sleep, uidiout being conscious of it ; and that, in fine, from whatever accident it might arise, tliey must necessarily have made some error in tbsir calculation. But as for them, who did not doubt of what they had seen, and who were unwilling to ^ve occasion to think that they might have some doubts, as they might have done if they had spoken less positively, and had not related the circumstances and the reasons, they have minutely written all these things, in order to show that their computation was exact : they then saw, for the first time, the sun in the sign of Aquarius, in 5** 25'; and according to their former calculation, he should have been in 16^ 27', before he could appear in the latitude of 76o, where they found themselves to be. These circumstances, so contrary to one another, occasioned much astonishment, the more as they did not think it possible to be mistaken in their computation of the time : they had marked day by day, without omitting any one, whatever happened : they had continually paid attention to their watches, and when they were frozen, they had recourse to the twelve-hour-glass. Their occupation at that time was to make different reflections, in order to conciliate what appeared so opposite, and to discover the truth with respect to the time. They consulted the Ephemerides of Joseph Scala, printed at Venice, which reached from 1589 to 1600 ; aid they thereby found that on the twenty-fourth of January, which was the same day the sun had appeared to them, the Moon and Jupiter were m conjunction, at one hour after midnight with respect to Venice. On this remark they were attentive to observe that same night at what hour those two planets should be in conjunction, with regard to the place they were in, and they were five hours later than at Venice, that is to say, about six in the morning. During this observation they saw that they approached each other at times till six in the morn- ing, when they were exactiy the one above the other, both in the sign of Taurus. Their conjunction took place by the compass exactiy at N. and by £. and the south of the at TO TlfE NORTH OF EUUOPi;. K)-^ compass, or of the needle, was S. S. W. where ^vas the true south, the moon iK'ing eight days old ; whence it appeared tliat the moon and sun were at the distance of eight runibs from each other. .*< This difference therefore lx:tween the place where they were and Venice was five hours in longitude, and that being supposed, we may compute how much farther they were to the east than the city of Venice, that is to say, five hours, each hour being of fifteen degrees, which makes seventy, five degrees ; from which it is easy to conclude that they were not mistiikcn in their computation, but that by the means of these two planets they had found the true longitude ; for the city of Venice is in longitude 37^ 25', and the declination being 46° 5' : it follows that the hut which was in Novaya Zem- lia was in longitude 112° 25', and latitude 76°. All which circumstances are here re- lated to shew that there was no error in their computation of lime. As to what regards the difference of time, which \v9a about fifteen days, that they had seen the sun at Novaya Zemlia sooner than it should have appeared, it is left to the learned to argue, and to determine as well as they can. On the same day, the twenty-sixth of January, the sick man of the company fell into a great swoon, and continued very bad till past midnight, when he died. On the twenty- seventh they dug a grave in the snow near, the hut in order to bury him, though with no small difficulty on account of the cold, which obliged them to work by turns. In fine, the pit being seven feet deep, they buried the dead man. The thirty-first was a very- fine day, and they were able to enjoy the brightness of the sun with pleasure. The first seven days of February were bad and stormy, which nearly occasioned them to despair ; for in the hopes of finer weather they had not taken the usual precaution of providing themselves with wood. The hut was again surrounded with high ramparts of snow : the fog was greater than it had been in the midst of winter, and the snow fell as thick as ever. But they did not as before give themselves the trouble of disengaging their door each time ; and when any thing occurred which obliged them to go out, they passed through the chimney, and these who were not ?.ble, were constrained to per- form their necessities within. On the eighth, the weather became finer : they saw the sun rise in the S. S. E. and set in the S. S. W. diat is to say, with respect to the dial of lead they had constructed near their hut, and fixed exactly south of that place ; for otherwise there was a difference at least of two rumbs from their other ordinary compasses. On the thirteenth they cleaned their traps : while they were thus occupied, they saw a large bear coming directly towards the nut, to which they all retired in great haste. One of them having taken aim, the ball struck the bear on the breast, passed quite through the body, and went out by the tail, so that it became as flat as a halfpenny. The bear being wounded, made a great leap, and retired for twenty or thirty feet from the hut, where he fell. Those who pursued him found him sull living, and he rabed his head, as if to see who had wounded him. As they had already too fatally experienced the strength of these animals, they did not stop there, but fired two other musket-shots at him and killed him : they ripped up his belly, and having taken away more than a hundred pounds of fat and lard, they melted it ; and by this means they had wheremthal to feed their lamp every night, which they had not done for some time, being in want of material ; but now they had the pleasure of havuig each a lighted lamp by his bedside when they chose. The skin of the bear was nine feet lung and seven wide. On the twenty-first they had no more wood remaining to warm themselves, and the weather was very severe, as well on account of the wind and snow as of the cold. It was I' ii I h If V «• n i! i08 THIRD VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH ncQcssary therefore to collect togithcr what wood they could, both from without and within, and use even the small sticks under their feet The weather wa.s finer on the twenty.second : they prepared a sledge tu fetch some wood, but found it so covered with snow that it was impossible to discpgage it ; tlms they were obliged to proceed much farther, whence, nevertheless, they brought but little, and with such great labour, that returning they all lost their spirits, as the severity of the cold was great, the labour of dragging the wood fatiguing, and the strength of the labourers exhaMsted by their exertions, and the inconveniences they then experienced ; but, in short, it was however indispensable cither to bring wood or perish with cold. When they approached tlx: hut, they perceived the waters open in different places of the sea, which aflforded them some consolation, and awakened the hopes of a speedy departure. Ci the twenty-eighth • 7 again went, to the number often, to fetch a sledge full of wood, the eleventh of their company not being able to assist them, because he had loat h'ls great toe by the severity of Uie cold ; and thb labour was not less punful than the other. On the eighth of March they saw no more ice on the N. £. side in the sea, iron) which they concluded that there Wiis a great sea to the N. E. of them. On the ninth they were able to see still farther, and perceived all the sea to the N. £. open ; but on t!>c side of Tartaiy there yet remained ice, whence they concluded that the sea was of no great breadth on that side, even when the weather was perfecUy serene : they imagined they discovered lands, and they shewed to one another, to the S. and S. £. of their hut, a land, which apix.*an>d to them like litde mountains, and in the same manner as prospects do when they first present themselves. On the fourteenth there arose a wind from the £. N. £. so violent and cold, that the sea was again frozen as hard as ever. Thb severe weather occasioned those to relapse, who, having been ill, and growing better, had been a litde too much exposed during the milder weather. From this day the cold continually increased, and was even still greater and more insupi)ortable than ever. This contrary weaUier, so little expected, dispirited the whole crew in such a manner, that Uiey could scarcely console themselves with the hopes of a speedy thaw, which the season seemed to promise. During the night of the sixth of April, a bear approached the hut : notwithstanding their endeavours to kill him with musket and firelock shots, they were not able to take sum on account of the fog ; and besides the powder was so damp that it would not take fire, and their guns almost always failed to fire. Tlie bear descended by the steps in ttie snow to the door, and attempted to enter ; but the master, placing himself behind it, kept it so well closed that the bear retired. Nevertheless he returned two hours after, and climbed to the top of the hut, where he made so dreadful a roaring that they were all alarmed : he advanced towards the chimney, and made such great excrdons to overturn it, that they feared he would accomplish it : he tore the sail with which it was surrounded, and having made an extraordinary ravage, he at length departed. On the eighth and ninth the wind blew from the S. W. and the ice disappeared ; but on the tenth a violent wind from the N. £. brought it back again, and filled the sea, heaping the flakes upon one another, so that about the coast there were yet moce and higher heaps than before. a h /«. ♦ This severe weather continued till the fifteenth, when they visited their vessel : they found it in the same condition tliey had left it. Returning, they saw a bear who ap- proached them : they immediately placed themselves in a state of defence, and the bear y they ap. bear ,i» •i TO Tire NOnTII OP F.UROPB. 109 as if conscious of his danger retired. They advanced to the place from which they had seen him proceed, in onlcr to discover if he had .10 lurking hole : they found a large ca- vity in the snow, nearly as deep as the height of a man, narrow at the entranee, anil very wide within : they thrust their pikes into it, and not meeting with any thing, one of the company even entered it. After this they went together to the seashore, from which they viewed the mountains of ice which covered the sea, and which were nearly dispohed like the houses of a great city, intersected with towers, steeples, bastions, and ramparts. On the seventeenth seven of tlicm returned to their vessel : they there perceiv«d that the water was free, which induced them to mount those heaps of ice, and pass as well iis they could from one to the other, till they reached the water, which thev had nr of the hut, retired when he heard the voices and noise, as one of the sailors observed, who had ascended the chimney ; so that it seemed, the bears began to be afraid, and d^rcd not attack the men with their usual boldness. On the fifth, when the sun was at the lowest, they beheld it at a considerable height above the horizon. On the seventh and eighth the snow again fell in such quantities, that they were obliged to remain in their hut, w|jere some of the sailors proposed to speak to the master, and represent to him that it was time to leave that fatal place. Nevertheless no oue dared to undertake it, because he had signified and h' »'.uuorr.. J 1 1 them : he was rccrivcd wiih a volley of three firelock h, which all took effect, the one from the chiiniK'y, uiid iIk- other two from two of the diMrs. This clciih cost tluin '.Uar, for having cut the Iku&I in pieces, unci dicitKvd the livr, and eaten it with pleasure, they were all indisiMmcd : three of them were so very ill, that tluy thought they would die ; neverthclchd tney recovered, having a ni;w skin from the hiail to tlie foot. Their n- cstubUbhmcnt scarcely grwc less pleasure to the remaituler of the com|);uiy than to them. mIvcs; for the loss of three men would |K:rhaps have put them out of condition to work with any effect for their return. On the third of June, their strength having returned, the^ resumed tl»e refitting of the bark, wliich was completed after six days* labour. At night there an)sc so violent a wind from the west, that the water again became free, and they prepared to embark. On the fourtli they wrnt to the immlKr of eleveii to the scluiyt, which was on the sea shore, and dragged it to the vessel ; diis labour being then more cosy than it h:ul been when they were obliged to quit it, either because the snow was not so hard, and tliat the schuyt glided more freely over it, or that they possessed more courage by seeing the water finee, and being on the eve of embarking. They lefttluce men there to refit the schuyt, which was properly a little herring.bark or hemngbuss, and was sharpened behind. Tliey cut off a part from the poop, made a little stem frame, and added some planks to the sides, that the vessel might have more depth, and be better able to stand the sea. The other part of the crew, which was in the hut, did not work with less ardour for the other nreparationvof the voyage. On this same day they conveyed two sledges laden with provisions and other articles from the hut to the vessel, which was nearly half way between the hut and the place where the water was free, that they might not have so long a carriage when it was necessary to embark. On the sixth they dragged two more sledges laden with some provisions and merchandise. After this there happened a violent storm from the S. W. accompanied with snow and hail, and particularly rain, which they had not beheld for a long time. The carpenters were obliged to quit their work, and retire with the others into the hut, where nothing then remained dry ; for the planks had been taken away to refit the litUe vessels, and there only remained the sail, which was not fit to keep out the rain. The rath which was covered with snow began also to thaw, so that it was necessary to leave off the shoes they had made of hats, to resume their leathern shoes, in whatever state they might be, and to make the best use they could of them. On the seventh they packed up the best merchandise, and that which they chose to carry back, and wrapped them round with tariuiwling, in order to protect them from the water, which could not fail frequently to splash in a little vessel withoi't cover. On the eighth they dragged tlteir packages to the vessel, and the same day the carpenters com- pleted the repaint of the schuyt. On the same day also they draped the shallop to the vessel ; and on the tenth they made four joumics with the sledge laden each time. They put what little remained of the wine in small vessels, in order to distribute it be- tween the two boats ; and also that in case one should remain enclosed in the ice, as they well foresaw what might happen, they could easily remove all the things from one boat to the other, or unload them on the ice, in order to transport them. On the eleventh they experienced a fresh subject of apprehension. A great tempest arose from the N. N. W. and they thought it might break the remainder of the ice on the sea shore, and occasion the vessel to float, or perhaps split it, in which was then every thing of the best they possessed, both as to provisions and merchandise ; a misfortune which would have far exceeded all the others they had experienced, and against which f 112 iiiniD voYAor. OF Tiir nirrcif » ; they would not have been at)lc to iK-ar. Diit Ciod tliark. This proposition was no sooner communi- cated to the crew than it was accepted, and they prepared to launch the vessels. Harcntsz then wrote a memoir, containing the circumstances of their departure from Holland, their voyage, their arrival at Novaya Zeinlia, the stay they made there, and dieir retreat, and put it in a musket charge, which he hung in the chimney, in order that if any one sliould land in the same place, they might be informed of what had hnp< pened to them, so as to profit by it, and to know by what adventure they found the remains of a little house, which had been inhabited for ten months. Besides this, as the \'oyage they were about to undertake with two small vessels, with- out any cover, must expose them to imminent dangers, the master thought proper to write two letters, which were signed by the whole crew, and one placed in each of the vessels. In these was contained a recitiil of all they had suflfered while waiting for the opening of the waters, and in the exix^ctat'ion that their vessel would be then disengaged from the ice ; that having been deceived in this hope, and the ship always remaining fixed, as they saw the season would soon pass away, they had been obliged to abandon it, and expose themselves to the dangers of a voyage, which delivered them to the mercy of the winds and waves ; that they had judged proper to make a double memoir, in case the two vessels should be separated, either by a storm, or any other fortune of the sea, or if one of the two should perish, that it might be learned from the other how the circumstances had come to ^xiss, and in it be found Uiat testimony for the confirmation of wlmt should be related by those who might chance to n-main. Thus, after having agreed in all arrangements, they drew to the sea the two vessels, and eleven sledges laden with provisions, wine, and merchandise, which they were careful to place in the best* manner possible for their preservation : that is to say, six packets of fine woollen cloth ; a chest full of linen clodi ; two packets of velvet ; two small boxes full of money ; two casks of articles necessary for refitting, and clothes for the ship's company ; thirteen casks of bread ; one of cheese ; a small cask of bacon ; two i •\ TO Tiir, woMTii or cimofc. 11.1 tnnces liould fssels, were f, six two |cs for two ■'1 of oil, lix of witie, two of vinrKtir, And tlir clothrii o( the crt\vn. Alt thU itpMlfld 90 miirh witcn tukcii out of the vcnmI, that it nu^ht Imvi- Ikcd iiaid to be iin|H>Mibte tO 1^ coinnioctntc it iu \i\c little itpAcc of two mich nmull vcnikU. Wlicn the cmlmrkniciit luul taken plucc, tliry also curricrl nn Ixnint two iklck men. Burt-DtHz luul another, who were diMMMttl in the two venwh, which the n^a^ter cmivd t«t be moored clotic to one unotltcr. At this time uIm> Iu: liod tlic two memoirs signed, ol which mention hus In-en nuidc. In line, on the fourteenth of June 1597, ut sir. in the morninii;, they weighed anchor, and Nct Hail from Novayii Zemlia with a westerly wind : they arrived that day at th:- Cane of tttc Isles, where tlicy iitill met with much ice, uikI they remained there encloned ; which afflicted tlK.*m in no small degae, inider tlu* a|)prehe:)sion they might continue there : four of them landed to reconnoitre the country, and they kncK^ked down four birds from the rrx:ka with stoiu:». On the fiflccnth, the ice being a little aeparuted, tlicy doubled the Cupc Flessingen, a.ul came to Cape Desire. On the sixteenth they were ut Orange Isle, where diey also landed, and having made a fire of the w(khI they found there, they melted the snow and put the water into snuill casks for drink. Three of them passed ort the ice to anotlter island, where they took three birds ; but returning, the muster, who was one oC the three, fell into a hole in the ice, wlK*re lie was in danger of peiishing, for there was at tliat part a very rupid current. Th(7 dressed tlie birds for the sick. After they had again set sail, and were arrived at Icy Cu|)e, the two vessels joined, und the master, who was not in the same with Barcntsz, usked him how he ibund himself. Barentsz replied that Ik: was better, and hoped he would still be able to travel before they arrivea at their inn. He asked if they were ut Icy Ca[)C, and De Veer having an. •wered him in the afRrmativc, he wished to be raised up, in order that he might behold that cape once more, for which there was leisure enough, being again enclosed in the ice, and the vessels completely surrounded. On the morning of the seventeenth, the flukes of ice struck against these two liltlc vessels in so dreMUul a manner, that the hair of the crew stood on end : they believed themselves at their last hour, iK-ither being able to stop the course of these floating maases, nor to prevent their Ijeing carried to Icewurd : they even found themselves all together so pressed between two banks of ice, that they took their last farewell of each other. At length, resuming courage, they endeavoured to come nearer to the firm ice, to fasten a coitl and tow the vessels there, that they might be less exposed to the floating flakes. When they had approached a little, there was no person who would go to moor the cord ; the danger was too great ; yet a virtue must be made of necessity, and the strength of the balance prevail over the weak side. In this dilemma De Veer, who was the most .amble among them, undertook to cany the cord, and leaped from one flake of ice to the other, until, with the assistance of God, he happily arrived on the firm ice, and fastened the cord about an eminence of ice. All the others then also left the vessels, and carried the sick in sheets on the ice, where they placed some other things under them, in order that they might rcpoc**. They afterwards disembarked whatever remained on IxK^rd, and dragging die vessels on the ice, they saw themselves delivered from the fear of a death which had appeared al- most inevitable. On the eighteenth they refitted their vessels, which had been damaged from what tJiey had suffered. They caulked the seams and covered them with tar-pawling, having happily found some wood to make pitch. They afterwards landed to seek for eggs, to VOL. I. Q s t t f I 2 'k 114 TIIIKU VOYAtiE OF THE DUTCH give to the sick, who most earnestly asked for some : but tlicy w(rrc not able to find my, and only brought back four birds. On the nineteenth they were more enclosed in the ice than before, and no more be- held any part open, so that they thought they had only prolonged their lives for some days, unless God should deliver them by some fiesh miracle. On the twentieth, at nine ill the morning, the mate came on board the shallop, and said that one of the crew, called Nicolas Andrisz, appeared to be drawing near to his end. Barentsz told him that he firmly believed his was not far off. The crew who perceived at the same time that Barentsz was looking over a chart, which Dc Veer had drawn of the places they had seen during the voyage, had not the least idea of his being in that state. They remained seated and conversed together of many other matters, until Barentsz, putting aside the chart, said to De Veer, give me some drink. When he had drank, h'i found himself very bad, his eyes rolled in h'ls head, and he expired so suddenly, that they had not time to cull the muster, who was in the schuyt. Nicolas Andrisz also expired immediately after. But the death of Barentsz extremely afflicted the whole crew, for they possessed great con- fidence in him, and he was very experienced in the art of pilotage and navigation. On the twenty-second, the wind blowing fresh from the S. E. the sea began to open. Yet it was necessary to drag the vessels more than fifty paces on the ice, and after having launched them, to draw them again on other ice, and to drag them for more than thirty paces before arriving at a free and navigable part. Having performed this labour, they set sail between four and five in the morning, and at noon ^t again en- tangled in the ice : but a little time after it separated, in a manner that it had the ap- pearance of the oi)ening of a sluice. They then navigated a little along the coast, and afterwards suddenly found themselves again completely enclosed, and notwithstanding all their efforts to separate the ice, they could not accomplish it. At length the waters having again opened of themselves, they continued to sail along tlie coast. On the twenty-thiid, at nine in the morning, they came to Cape Troost, from which they could not depart on account of the fresh ice which surrounded them. On the same day they observed the altitude, and found themselves in latitude 76° 39'. Here the sun shone clear ; but it was not of sufficient strength to melt the snow, for which they would have had great occasion in order to have water to drink, all of them suffer- ing a great thirst. On the twenty-fourth, at noon, they disengaged themselves from the ice by means of their oars, and having gained the sea, they sailed onward well till they came to Cape Nassau, which they discovered, and from which they were according to their computa- tion ai the distance of three leagues. Three sailors landed, and brought a little wood, which served them to boil some meat, in order to have some warm aliment for their stomachs, of which they stood in very great need. On the twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth there arose a heavy tempest from the south, during which the part of the ice to which the vessels were moored broke and separated. The vessels being unmoored, drifted out to sea, v/ithout their being able to row towards the firm ice, and they were a hundred times in danger of perishing. As they found they could not regain the land by means of the oars, they hoisted up the foresail, and stood towards the coast. But the foremast of the schuyt broke twice ; so that they wei^ constrained, notwithstanding die violence of the wind, to make use of the main sail. Scarcely was it hoisted up, when the wind took it in such a manner, that if it had not been immediately lowered, the vessel would have been sunk ; for it already admitted the water everywhere by the side, and this accid??nt, with the violence of the tempest, occa.*on- ed those exposed to them to regard death as certain. But the time appointed by Heaven :i| TO THE NORTH OP EUROPE. 115 for their last hour was not yet arrived. There suddenly arose a N. W. wind, which calmed every thing, and favoured their passiigc to the firm ice, though they did not reach it without danger. When they had arrived there, they looked about to endeavour to discover the shallop, and not seeing any thing of it, they navigated about a league along the ice with- out the least sign of it: so that they began to ap^irehend t'.c vessel w;is lost. In the mean time there happened a great tog, which obliged the crew of D Veer to fire a musket, in order that they might answer, if they heard it. In fact, the others answered, and this signal enabled them to rejoin. On the twenty-seventh they arrived at a place on the western coast of Cape Nassau, where, while they sailed along the land, they beheld on the ice more sea-cows than they had ever seen, or rather they saw an innume:able multitude. They also observed a flock of birds, at which having fired two muskets together, they killed twelve. On the twenty-eighth they disembarked all theii cargo, and placed it on the firm ice, where the}' also dragged their vessels, because the wind which ciune from the sea might force the ice towaitls them with too much violence. As soon as they had descended on the ice they made tents of their sails, and placed themselves underneath, in order to take some repose, leaving one man as centinel. About midnight there came three bears towards the vessels. The centinel discovering them, called out three bears, three bears. At this noise they all awoke, and proceeded from th ^ tents with muskets charged only with small shot to kill birds. Although these shots might give no great wounds to the bears, they did not fail to turn back, and by this means gave an opportunity of loading the muskets again. One was killed, and the other two fled. They returned on the following day, at three in the afternoon, to the place where tlie dead bear was lying, and one of them having taken him by the throat, carried him to a considerable distance on the most rugged ice, where both began to eat him. The crew seeing this fired a musket, which occasioned them to quit their prey and flee. Four men going to the plac2, found that in the little time they were about it they had already devoured half of the body of their comrade, of which seeing the size, they were astonished at the strength of the bear who had carried him away by so diflicult a path, since these four men had great difiiculty to lift the remaining half. On the thirtieth the westerly wind again forced the ice with the same violence to- wards the east ; they beheld afresh two bears coming on a bank of floating ice ; which they believed to be the same they had seen the preceding day. They shewed a disposi- tion to attack the crews, but took another route. About half past ten in the morning another presented himself on the firm ice, who retired as soon as he heard a noi. e. On the first of July, at six in the morning, which was the break of day, there came again a bear on the flakes of ice who plunged into the water in order to swim to the firm ice where the crews were, but retired at the sound of their voices. About nine, the banks of ice coming from the sea struck with so much violence against the firm ice, that it split into several pieces that to which the crew had retired with their little vessels, and occasioned it to float. This was a dreadful accident, for all their packages were on the ice, and the greater part fell into the water. It became necessarj' therefore to exert fresh strength in order to drag the shallop on the ice near the shore, where they hoped to be less incommoded by the flakes of ice. But having dravm the vessel, when they would go to fetch the {jackets, they found themselves in as great danger as ever they had been ; for while they endeavoured to lay hold of a packet, the ice split between both, or under another packet, and carried it 'i y. r ■t 116 THIRD VOYAGE OP THF. DUTCH away. It even split under the feet of the people while they were walking ; so that they were at a loss to know how to act, or how to save themselves. The same happened when they endeavoured to move the schuyt, the ice split under their feet, and the schuyt was carried away with the crew. It Mras even broken in some parts, especially in those which had been altered or repaired. The mast was broken ; the cross-piece of the mast, and almost the whole schuyt, was split to pieces. There was also a sick man within, who was not taken out but with extreme danger to the persons employed in this charitable office ; for the pieces of ice on which they were obliged to Kluce themselves floated, and stnick against other ice, and the least blow which might avc been given to an arm or a leg would have broken it. At length, after a con^derable time of hardships and labour, the ice dispersed a little, and the violence of their course diminished. They then returned to their schuyt, and drew it again on the firm ice near the shallop, where it was in a little more security. This fatigue lasted from six in the morning till six in the evening, so that all the crew Wure quite exhausted. They lost that day two casks of biscuit, a chest full of linen cloth, a chest full of clothes, and necessary articles fur the equipment of the vessels, the astronomical circle, a packet of scarlet cloth, a little cask of oil, one of wine, and some cheeses. On the second of July, at half past four in the afternoon, the weather was finer, and six men were employed at the refitting of the schuyt, while mx others went on shore to seek for wood. They also brought some stones, which they arranged on the ice to serve as a hearth, and to make a fire, in order to melt some pitch to caulk the schuyt They looked at the same time for a piece of wood to make a mast, which they found. There was even some wood cut down, and tools to cleave it, which they carried away, and which indicated that the place had l^en frequented by men. The schuyt was repaired at two in the morning, and the^' afterwards roasted some birds which they had killed, in order to eat, and recruit their strength. On the third two men wt. j sent to procure some water. They found at the water- ing place, two of their oars, the tiller of the rudder, the chest of linen cloth, and a hat out of the chest of goods. They carried away their load, and when they were returned, they sent four others, who drew all the remainder of the water, and placed it on the ice, whence they again took it when they set sail. On the fourth the weather was firer than they had experienced «nce their stay on th" 'Ovists of Novaya Zemlia. They availed themselves of this opportunity to wash in snr / water the pieces of velvet which had been wetted by the saJt water, and packed *'.em up afresh. On the fifth, John Jansz of Haerlem, a relation of the deceased Nicolas Andrisz, also died. On the same day the ilakes began again to float with violence. On the seventh they killed thirteen birds, on which they feasted the following day. On the ninth the ice continued to float, and the water became fiiee towards the land. The firm ice, on which were the vessels and crews, also began to separate and float, which obliged them to draw their vessels to the water miore than three hundred ^nd forty paces, a prodigious labour, and which they could never have perfonreJ, if they had not been actuated to preserve their lives. They set sail between seven and eight in the morning ; but at six in the evening were obUged to return to land, and replace uiem- selves ontl^ firm ice, which was not yet separated in that part. On the tenth they exerted all their efforts to pass through the ice, and Sailed till they found themselves between two large surfaces of ice, very much resembling fields, but which joined together in a part It was necessary therefore to unload the vessels again, transport their cargoes, and drag themselves on the ice tiU they should ag^n 1 w V--' TO THL NORTH OF BUllOrE Hf meet with open water, which they did not for more than a hundred paces. Afterwards they again set sail, but this did not continue long, and they were constrained to proceed more gently, in order to pass to a small space lying between two other fields of ice, which however were only two prodigious floating flakes, between which they passed, before they were completely joined. When they were without this strait, the wind began to blow fresh from the west, and took them by the prow ; so that they sailed with all their efforts tc regain the firm ice, which with fi;reat difficulty they approached. They tliere a^ain dra^^ged their vessels, and remained half dead with fatigue, and almost in despair at beholdmg the prodigious assemblage of difficulties. On the eleventh a lai^ and very fat bear advanced towards them from the water. He was received with three muskets, which were aimed at him together, and being fired when he was no farther off" than about thirty paces, killed him at once. The fat, quite warm, which issued from his wounds, resembled oil on the water where it flowed. Some of the crew placed themselves on an ice bank, which they directed towards the body, and having fixed a cord about his neck, dra^^d him on the ice, where they drew his teeth ; and having measured the body, found it to be eight feet thick. After this, three of the crew went to an island lying before them, from which they dis- covered the isle of Crosses to the west. They advanced by that side and entered this latter bland, in orde * to see if there were no signs of the Russians being arrived there ; but they saw nothing that could in the least induce them to imagine that any one had landed there since their departure. They took nearly seventy eggs of mountain mallards, and returned to join their companions, after an absence of twelve hours, which had ap. peared to the remainder of the crew, who waited for tliem, a great time, and had occa- sioned them great uneasiness. They related, that in order to i)ass the Isle of Crosses, they had sometimes been up to their knees in the water on tlie ice between the two i^ands, and that they had walked nearly six ka^es going and coming. The others *.vere astonished at their boldness, and especi^ bemg so weak as they all were, that they had undertaken so fatiguing a jour- ney. The eg^ they brought were a ven n-jcessary and agreeable mess for £em all : and though amidst so many difficulties, they aid not fail to make a very delicious repast. The^ also then distributed the remainder of the wine, of which each had three minglesy or six French pints. ... On the uxteenth a bear came towards them from the land. At first they could not discern if it was a bear, so much did his white skin glitter, and resemble the snow. When he had approached they fired at him, and the shot taking effect, he fled. On the fdlowing day, some of them wishing to go to the neighbouring island, to observe if there were any opening in the water, met about half way with the wounded bear, lying on a tank of ice. As soon as he heard them he fled, but one of them having ^ven him a violent blow with a boat hook, the hook of which entered his skin, he fell back on his two hinder paws. The man would have followed up the blow, but the bear broke the hook to pieces, so that he who had given the blow fell backwards in his turn. The others immediately fibred on the bear, which occasioning him to flee, the sailor who had fallen down, rose up, ran after him \i'itla the stump of his boat hook, and discharged several heavy blows on his body. The bear turned back each time, and leaped three times against the man who struck him. In the mean time his two companions having ap- proached, they fired again at the bear, and pierced him through the body, so that he fell back ^ain, and could no Icmger walk but with difficulty. In fine, they fired once mo:c, and having killed himi they drew his teeth, ., , .> W r u I i (: l^g THIRD VOYAGE OF THE DUTCH On the eighteenth they unloaded the vessels, and having drawn them on the ice, they dragged them over it to a place where water was open. Afterwards they carried the cargo there, that is to say, for more than a thousand paces ; a fatigue under which they hud nearly sunk. They tlien again set sail, imd navigated uU halfpast four in the after- noon, when they were again entangled in the ice : and it was necessary to draw their vessels over, as they had already so many times. They there had a distmct view of the Isle of Crosses, from which they computed they were at the distance of a league. On the nineteenth, while the vessels and the crew were on the ice, seven men passed at six in the morning into the Island of Crosses, whence they beheld a considemblc space of water open to the west, which gave them great joy, and occasioned them to hasten to bear this good intelligence to their companions. Nevertheless they took time to collect a hundred eggs, which were cooked as soon as thev arrived, and distributed. At two m the afternoon they laboured to put the vessels into the water. It was ne- cessary to drag them for more than two hundred and seventy paces, but this was per- formed with a cheeriulness which much alleviated the pain, in the hopes that it would be the last of that kind of fatigue tliey should undergo. As soon as the vessels were in the water, they set sail, and made such good way, that at six in the evening they were beyond the Isle of Crosses, and immediately afterwards they saw no more ice, or at least the little they beheld gave them no uneasiness. They bore to the W. and by S. with a good steady wind blowmg from the E. and £. N. £. so that, according to their computation, ihey sailed at the rate of eighteen leagues in twenty-four hours : which inspired them with fresh courage, and with the hopes, by the blessing of God, of a happy return. On the twentieth, at nir.e in the morning, they doubled the Black Cape, and at six in the evening observed Admiralty Isle, which they passed at midnight Tney there beheld nearly two hundred sea-cows on a bank of ice, about wliich they were feeding, and they attacked them, of which they hud occasion to repent; for this species of marine monsters possessing an extraordinary strength, they all swam towards the vessels, as if with a de- sign to attack them, and to revenge the injury they had sustained ; and they made all rour.a a dreadful noise, as if they had threatened to destroy every thing. The freshness of the wind, which forced the vessels along, relieved them from a peril which they could well have avoided, if they had been willing, and into which a want of prudence alone had drawn them. On the twenty.first they doubled the capes of Plancio and Laugenes. On the twenty- second, as they were close to Cape Cant, the crew of Gerard De Veer landed to seek for e^s and birds. They did not find any ; but aftervt^ards, about noon, seeing a rock covered with birds, they steered towards it, and throwing stones, they knocked down and took twenty-two birds, and one of th^ crew having landed on the rock, brought away twenty three e^s. Abuut three in the afternoon they came to another cape, where they took nearly a hundred and twenty-five birds, taking the greater number by the hand in their nests : for they were not alarmed at the sight of the men, and no doubt were only afraid of the foxes and other wild beasts, to secure themselves from which they built their nests on those high and steep rocks, where they could not ascend. As for the men, if the sight ;jOf them had frightened the birds, they might easily have escaped from ^heir hands, for they could not go to take them in tneir own nests, where they seemed to await being taken, without danger of breaking their legs or arms, or of perishing, and still more in descending than in mounting. Be»des, there was only one egg in each nest; and it lay on the bare rock, without straw or feathers, or any thing which could give it ^ TO rtiv. NORTH OK fciniori'.. 119 warmth ; so that there was room for wonder how these eggs could be brooded and hatched, on account of the great cold which reigned there. When they had again set sail in order to depart from the coast, the wind became per- fectly contrary. Besides, the sea was so covered with ice, that after much difficulty, and making different tacks, they found themselves again cnt^ingled. The master, who was in the schuyt, farther into the sea, seeing the others in the midst of the ice, and that they continually advanced, imagined they perceived open water farther off, in which he was not deceived ; and that they were willing to reach it. Under this idea he tacked about, and steered in the same direction, and both together bore towards the coast, where they met with a Rood harbour, sheltered almost from every wind. They landed there and brought wocS, in order to cook the birds. On the twenty-third, the weather being cloudy and foggy, and the wind blowing from the north, they were constrained to remam in that creek. In the mean time some of the crew advancing farther into the island, they found some small stones of good gold. On the twenty-fourth they observed the altitude, and found themselves in latitude 73° 10'. The weather continuing unfavourable, they were obliged to remain longer in that place, where they went to seek for small golden stones, and they brought away handsomer than they had observed before. On the twenty-sixth, at noon, they again set sail, and as the creek in which they were Mras of great extent, it was already full midnight by the time they were without On the twenty-seventh they sailed along the coast through the broken ice, and at six in the evening they arrived at a place where was a very rapid current, which induced them to think they were near Costmsarch : for they saw a great gulf, as they imagined, extending to the sea of Tartary. About midnight they doubled the Cape of the Crosses, and en- tered the channel between the main land and an island. On the twenty-eighth of July they sailed along the coast, and came at three in the afternoon to the Abbey of St. Laurence, or under Biistion Cape, where they found beyond the point two Russian barks, which were at ancho.. It would be difficult to describe the joy of the whole crew at having arrived at a place where they had the sight of men. Nevertheless this joy was damped by the reflection that these men, who were to the num- ber of thirty, were not Hollanders, but perhaps savages, or at least other people, with whom they were unacquainted, and who might treat them as enemies. In the mean time they approached the snore with much difficulty, and the Russians perceiving them, quitted their work, and advanced towards them unarmed. Approach- ing one another, tlhey made salutations, each according to his manner. Some of the Russians recollected the Hollanders, and beheld them with compassion ; and some of the Hollanders also remembered them to be the same they had seen in the preceding voyage, when they had passed the Wcigats, and who had entered their vessel. It was easy to observe on the countenances of the Russians the astonishment they were in, at beholding the others, and seeing them so meagre and cast down, wandermg in small vessels without decks, and quite exposed ; while before they had seen them in so beauti> ful a ship, and so well equipped. Two of them laid their hands in a friendly manner on the shoulders of the master and De Veer, in order to let them know they remembered them ; for of all the Dutch crew which was there, only these two had been in the preceding voyage, in which they had seen the Russians. They asked, as well as could be comprehended, where their crahble was, that is to say, their vessel. As they had ho interpreter, they made them understand in the best manner they could, that they had lost it m the ice ; upon which ,< •;' ISO TIIIRU VOVAf.K OP TUB Dt TCK they replied, Grabble probal ; the Dutch, conceiving they said the vessel is lost, replied also Crabble propai, tninking to say, yes, we have lost it. Afterwards the Russians made them understar 1 that in the other voyage they had drunk wine in the ship. One of the sailors comprehending that they spoke of drinking, went to draw some water, and having presented it to them, they shook their heads, and said, JVodobre, by which they thought they would say, that is not good. The master having approached them, and having opened his mouth, and shewn the inside, in order to make them understand that he was tormented with the scurvy, and to ask if they had no remedies for this disorder, they conceived the master would say he was hungry, and hav- ing returned to their lodia, they brought a loaf of rye flour, of about eight pounds weight, and some dried birds. The master tnanked them, and also made them a present of half a dozen biscuits. He invited two of the principal to come into the schuyt \^-ith him, where they presented each with a glass of wine of what they had remaining. The other sailors went to the place where were the other Russians, and there boiled some biscuits in water, in order to take something \vami. In fine, it was a great consolation to have commerce with men, after being deprived of that pleasure for thirteen months. On the twenty-third, in the morning, the Russians prepared to sail, and drew from beneath the grass, on the brink of the sea, some tons of whale oil, which they had buried, in order to carry on board. The Dutch, who had not been able to learn their route, perceived they took that of the Weigats. They steered the same course, and followed them. But the wciither was so dark and misty, that they lost sight of one another. In the mean time the Dutch entered a channel between two islands, and passed them till they were again entangled in the ice, without seeing any opening by which they might leave it ; which made them presume that they were near the Weigats, and that the N. W. wind had thus forced the ice into the gulf. It was therefore necessary to put back, and return to the two islands, to one of which they moored their vessels. On the thirty .first they sailed from this island towards another, hi >^ich were two crosses. Perceiving these, they persuaded themselves that they should meet with some people there : but mey saw no one. Nevertheless their trouble was not lost ; if they found no men, they found some cochlearia^ a herb of which they were nearly all in want, because they were attacked with the scurvy, and so affected, that the greater part was ready to sink under it. Thev ate the cochlearia in great quantities, because in Holland they had heard much said of its virtue, and they experienced it to be yet greater than they had imagined. It had so great and sudden an effect, that they were surprised ; so that those who were no longer able to eat biscuit began to eat it direcdy. On the third of August, 1597, they determined to cross from Novaya Zemlia to Russia. With this intention they steered to the S. S. W. and sailed till six in the morning, when they again got entangled in the ice. This new misfortune sensibly affected them, for they did not expect to be any more exposed to it, and thought they had been completely clear of it« A calm coming on at the same time, they endeavoured to extricate themselves by their oars ; and in fact, by three in the afternoon they were in the main sea, where no more ice was seen. As they proceeded at a good rate, they imagined they should soon be off the coast of Russia ; but at nine at night they saw themselves afresh surrounded with ice ; an accident which had nearly mined them, and occasi(med them to fear they should nev£r be out of these dangerous parts. . ■ , .. * !»■■.'■■.: ■■■m-' TO TUB NOIITII OF KLnOI»i;. 191 thfir Ire ice )ffthe te; an ;erbe 1." Not being able therefore to sail with the shallop, nor to double Icy CajH-, they were obliged to man through the ice which surrounded them. While they were en- gaged in this, tney advanced more than they did before, and at length ailer gr(ut dimculty found themselves again in free water. As for the master, he was in the achuyt : and this vessel, which was a better sailer than the other, passed Icy Cape, after which they rejoined. On the fourth, at noon, they saw by the prow the coast of Russia, and having ap- proached it, they sailed close to the shore, and remained moored there till three in the afternoon, when they again set sail. They kept constanUy close to the s'.tore, and pro« ceedcd at a tolerable rate till midnight, when they discovered a Russian vessel, and called out Candnocsy Candnoes ; but the Russians answered, PitzorOy Pitzora : giving the Dutch to understand that they were not yet near to Candnoes, as they imagined, but only near to Pitzora. This error arose from the variation of the needle of the com- pass, which was enclosed in a box cncomjjassed with circles of iron, so that they were mistaken by two rumbs. As tlicy had observed their error, they judged it proper to moor, and wait for day. On the fifth a sailor, having landed, found some grass and small trees. He called the others and told them to bring firelocks, because there was game, at which they were extremely rejoiced : for the provisions were nearly exhausted, only some mouldy bis- cuit remaining. Besides, some of the crew w;;re of opinion they should leave the vessels there, and proceed by land, because otherwise it wivs probable that they would perish by hunger. On the sixth of August, the wind being contrary, they encouraged one another to row strongly, in order to depart from the gulf; but after having rowed for nearly three leagues, they could not advance farther, as much on account of the contrary wind, as of their weak rendition ; and besides, the coast stretched farther to the N. E. than they had imagined. On the seventh they left the gulf, and reached the point of land where they had been before. There they were obliged to fix themselves again with their hawsers, because the wind always remamed contrary, which made them heavy at heart, seeing there was no end to their hardships, and finding disease and hunger con- sume them. The eighth and ninth were not more favourable days. Some of the crew having landed, discovered a buoy between Candnoes and the continent of Russia, and they concluded that this was the channel through which the Russians passed. Returning, they met with a dead sea-dog. They dragged it into the schuyt, and regarded it as a good piece of game, so greatly were thev pressed by hunger. But the others pre- vented them from eating it, telling them that it would certainly occasion their deaths, and that it would be better to suffer still, and wait what it should please God to do with them : that it should be hoped that out of his goodness he would at last provide for their wants. On the eleventh they rowed till noon, when they had a fresh breeze from the S. and having set the sails they proceeded very quickly. In the evening, the wind increasing very much, they sailed towards the coast, and landed, in order to water the vessel if they could meet with any. They also erected tents on account of the rain which fell in heavy showers, and which at midnight was accompanied with lightning and loud claps of thunder. All the^f^ new misfortunes, following those with which they \vere already overwhelmed, reduced them almost to despair, and occasioned some to wish for death. On the twelfth, at six in the morning, they resumed a little courage at seeing a Russian bark coming towards them at full sail. They hastened as much as they could to stand VOL. I. ft Sx f 1 122 THIKI) VOYAfJB OF THR DUTCH out to sea nnd meet it. The master went on board the bark, and asked at what distance they were yet from Candiux^s ; but he could not learn uny thin^r, beinfii^ unacquainted with the language. They extended five fuigcrs, and the Dutch miagined this signified that there were five crosses on the coast. They also drew out their steering compass, nnd shewed that the lands lay to the N. W. of them, and the Dutch found the same by their compass. As the master perceived he could derive no intelligence from them, he entered farther into the bark, and pointing to a cask of fish, asked if they would sell it, and S>resented them a piece of forty sols. They comprehended his intention, and gave lim a hundred nnd two fish, with little cakes, which they had cooked in the water in which they had boiled their fish. About noon >hey parted, the Dutch crew remaining very much satisfied at having obtained a little provision, because fnr a length of time they had only had each four ounces jier day, with water, and nothing more. They divided the fish equally between them, without the least distinctioi;. On the thirteenth two sailors landed, in order to discover if the point of Candnoes stretched far into the sea. At their return, they said there was every ap|iearance that it was the same point they had conceived, and on this the spirits of all the crew being revived, they rowed with ^reat exertion along the coast. At three in the afternoon they observed that the cape which they had seen appeared at some distance to the S. and no longer doubted then that this was the Cajie or Candnoes, whence they hoped to enter the mouth of the White Sea. "With this intention the vessels approached each other side to side, nnd stood out to sea, in order to pass the White Sea, and go to Russia, according to their idea. They sailed with tolerable success till midnight, when there arose a violent tempest from the N. which separated the two vessels from one another. On the fourteenth the weather clearing up. the crew of the schuyt discovered the others just within the reach m the eye, and used every exertion to rejoin them, but in vain, on account of a great mist which arose. On tlie fifteenth they had a fine breeze, and about noon discovered land. They then imagined that they were to the west of the White Sea, beyond Candsioes. When they ^^ ere near to land, they saw six barks of Russians lying at anchor. They saluted them, and asked them at what distance they were from Kilduin, or Kildun. The Russians gave them to understand that they were still very far from it, and that they were only on the eastern coast of Candnoes. They stretched out their arms, to signify that it was necessary to pass the White Sea, and that it would be very perilous to undertake this voyage with such small vessels. The Dutch having requested some provisions, they gave them a loaf, which they ate with great appetite, notwithstanding its dryness. Nevertheless, though they sufficiently comprehended, the crew of the schuyt could not persuade themselves that they were at the place which was signified to them : they were willing, at any rate, to believe that they had passed the White Sea. On the sixteenth De Veer steered towards a bark, which he saw to starboard, and to which he came up with great difficulty. They asked the Russian crew if they were near Zemlia of Cool, or otherwise Kilduin. The Russians shook their head, and gave them to understand they were only at Zemlia of Candnoes. The Dutch were still unwilling to believe them. They entreated them to give them some provisions. The Russians gave them some plaice, and the master having paid a piece of silver for them, tacked about, in order to enter a channel before which they then were, and through which they would pass into the sea. one TO THK NORTH OF F.l'ROPK 12.1 The RuMians observing their tacking, and that they took a wronp; course, hc!>i(Iis that the tide was almost jwshed, sent two men to tlitni in a little yawl, with a large loaK ThcHC men gave them to understand that they would do well to return to the bark, where thev would endeavour to give them more instruction. The master i^rcbenttd another piece of silver, with some eloth, to these messengers, who continued without wishing to part. Those who were in the large biu-k raised in the air a piece ol' bacon and some butter, to induce the Dutch to return. They therefore returned, and having shewed their chart to the Russians, these latter made them comprehend that they were still to the east of the White Sea and Candnoes. The Dutch were not less surprised than afflicted with this intellii^ncc, whi^ \ they could not believe till then, and to find themselves so distant, especially on acc< stretching very far, which they believed to Ik Candnoi^s. At night they anchored under the cape, and boiled a pot full of flour with water ; a mess which they found excellent, the more so as they had mixed a little honey. They were vet extremely uneasy on account of the shallop, which they saw no more, and of the fate of which they were ignorant. On the seventeenth, being moored, they saw a bark coming from the White Sea, to which they sailed. On boarding, thev present^'d them a lonf, without being vet asked for one. The Russians wislied to make them understand in the Ixst manner they could that they had seen their companions to the number of seven in their shallop, and spoken to them. But as they found they were not understood, they lifted up seven fingers, and pointed to the schuyt, giving them to understand that it was as small a vessel with- out deck, which they had seen, and that they had sold them bread, meat, fish, and other things. The crew of the schuyt be^nning to comprehend what they said, jk-t- fectly understood them, by seeing in their hiinds a little compass which they had seen with the boatswain's mate. They asked them if it was long since they had seen their com- panions, and where they then were. The Russians signified to them that it was the preceding day, and caressed the Dutch ver)' much, who did not do less in thanking them, especially on account of the good intelligence they had given them with resix^ct to the shalloL*. The master directed them to row with exertion towards the part where the shallop should be, in order to endeavour to rejoin them ; and having ranged all day along the coast, about midnight they met with a spring of fresh water, where they watered the ship, and at the same place they also found some cochlearia. On the eighteenth, at six in the morning, they drew up the large stone to which they were moored, instead of a stream anchor, and continued to range the coast, sailing till noon, when they again beheld another great cape, upon which there appeared in. distinctly some crosses. Towards six in the evening, they recognized distincUy by, the marks that it was the Cape of Candnoes, which is at the mouth of the White Sea, and under which they had wished for a length of time to arrive. This cape is very easily known again by five crosses which are there, and it can easily be perceived how it bears oflf on each side, on one side to the S, E. and on the other to the S. W, nj4 TIIIMT) VOYACiR OV TlfF. DUTCH While thej' were preparinp; to cross to tlic west of the White Sea, towards the coast of Luplaiul, they ixrccivcd that the water hud nearly all run out of uue of tlicir liule QAskn. They had more than forty leagues to go Ixfore tliey could meet with fretih, !io that they judged it pro|x:r to sail towanls land, in order to acck tor home spring; but the •ca dashed no violently along the coaht that they d^ux-d not approach. They again set sail between ten and eleven at night, and biiiled all that night and the following day with a goixl wind, by which the^ made a gnat progress ; so that on the twentieth, between four and five in the mornmg, they saw the land to the west of the White Sea, having before jXTceived bv the roaring of the sea that they were not far oflF. It was to them a great occa-sion to give thanks to Grxl, that in thirty hours they had happily passed the White Sea, in which they had a very perilous passage of forty leagues. When they were off the coast, and found that there was no way of advancing by sailing, they passed between some rocks, and came to a f^i^^Kl road, where having en. tercd, they saw a large bark at anchor, and some houses on the coast : they rowed to- wards the bark, and having moored the schuyt there, they landed and proceeded to those houses. The inhabitants received them with kindness ; they led them to a stove, where they dried their clothes, and then served them with iish. In these houses were thirteen men, who went out to fish every morning, and two of which commanded the others ; all of them living very soberly, and almost constantly on Iish. Besides these thirteen Kiissians, there were two Laplanders, with three women and a cliild, who lived in great poverty, only eating the remnants of the Russians, who left them some pieces of fish, and the heads, which they threw to them, and which the Lap> landers picked up, with great humility and many thanks. The Dutch regarded this manner of living with great compassion, who, in whatever state they were themselves, and whatever pity they must excite, could not forbear being moved lor others, ai:d con* cemed at the misery of these unfortunate people. On the twenty-first, the master had some fresh fish dressed, of which the crew ate as much us they pleased, which had not happened for a length of time, and they made a porridge of water and flour to supply the place of bread. In the afternoon, having ad- vanced into the country to seek for some cochlcaria, they perceived two men on a little mountain, and siiid one to anotlier that there must be more inhabiuints in the place than they had seen ; and afterwards, without making any other reflection thereon, they re- turned to their schuyt. These two men, who were their own companions, and of the crew of the shallop, descended from the mountain, and went to the bark, to endeavour to procure some pro- visions ; but having come there without any design, and as it were without thinking of it, and having no money, they had resolved to give two pair of their breeches, because they had each two or three pair one over anotlier. When they approached the bark they saw the schuyt, which was close to it at anchor, and recognised those who were within. The joy was reciprocal ; they messed together, and drank water as clear as that of the Rhine at Cologne. The crew of the shallop had suffered still more hardships than that of the schuyt, and both together returned thanks to God from the bottom of their hearts, because he had permitted them to meet again. On the twenty-second their companions arrived with their vessel, and this completed their joy. They entreated the cook of the Russians to wet a sack of flour and make some bread, to which he very willingly consented. As the fishermen returned at that time fi-om the sea, the master bought of them four stock- fish, which he had dressed. While the Dutch were at dinner, the man who commanded the Russians came to sec TO TriE NORTH or EtHoi»r.. 125 thfm, and m they had hut little brciul, he presented thtin with some. Tht y iiivital him to cut with thcin ; hut he would not, becautc it wm u faitdu)', and iluy had thrown a little fat or melted butter over the ti^h. Tliey could not even nrevuil on him nor \m people to drink a single draught, iKrause the cup ap|K-ared a liule greasy, and they would not lend their cups, for tear they should gretuie them ; iio MUtKTstitious arc Uiey in the ol)Hervution of their fiusts. On the twenty-fhird, the muster made a handsome present in money to the com innndiTof the Russians, and paid the c(Jok for his trouble in making bn'ud, ibr which they both returned many thunks. At six in the evening the two vessels set sail during the spring tide. On the twenty.fourth, at vix in the morning, they arrived at the Seven Isles, where they met with many fishermen, of whom thty asked for Kool, or Kilduil. The fishermen pointed to the east; and tliis was also the opinion of the Dutch crew. The fishermen threw them a stock-fish, but they could not pay them for it, being earned along too quickly by a strong wind : they only tiuide diHerent signs to signify that the\ thanked them, remaining besides surprised at the obliging iiuinners of those peoi)le. At six in the evening they met with other fishermen, who sailed towards them, and asked wheie was their crabble, that is to siiy, their ship ? They gave for answer the two words which they had learned, crahhle pro/)al, the ship is lost : upon which the fishermen again cried out. Cool brabante crabble, by which they conceived they would say that there were Dutch vessels at Cool, or Cola. On the twenty.fifth, at noon, they were in sight of Kilduin, and between one and two came to the western extremity of the island. The master immediately landed, where he foimd five or six small houses inhabited by Laplanders, of whom they asked if that country was not Kilduin ? They answered yes ; and that there were three Dutch ves- sets at Cola, two of which were to leave it that same day. Upon this answer, they again set sail between four and five in the afternoon, with an intention to reach Wardhuis ; but during their course the wind increased so that they could not keep the sea during the night : they therefore passed behind two rocks and bore towards the land. They saw a little hut there, to which they repaired, and found three men, who received them with kindness. They asked these men if they could find a vessel to go to Holland. They returned the same answer as the Laplanders, that there were three, two of which were on the eve of departure. They asked them if they were willing to go to Cool with one of the crew by land, and they would pay them well for their trouble. The Liiplanders excused themselves, saying they could not leave that place. Nevertheless, they conducted the master with one of the sailors over a mountain, where they met with other Laplanders, who engaged to conduct the sailor, on their promising two reals of eight. Thus one of them having taken a firelock, and»the sailor holding a hook in his hand, they both dejiartcd towards morning. On the twenty sixth they towed the two vessels to land, and drew cut what they had there to expose it to the air : they afterwards went to visit the Russians, with whom tliey warmed themselves : they also dressed what they had to eat, and resumed two re- gular repasts every day, as having no doubt that henceforth they should meet with men from time to time, and the most part of those things for which they should have occasion. They drank also of the beverage of the Russians, which they call quass, made of every sort of old and mouldy bread, and which nevertheless they did not fail to find good, after having for such a length of time drank nothing but water. Some of them having advanced farther into the country met with a kind of little fruit, of the colour of the i 126 Tiiinn voY,\«K or tinb nirrrH, ke. I slot*, which murh rcncmhlcd lilack ^;()o^iK*rricH, of which they ate, nnd fotiiul much lie- luTit from thcni ; for tiny |KTtxivctl thut these gooiilK*rric!t coinpkti-d the ciin: of th'r scurvy. On the twenty-ninth they siiw on u mountain the Laplander retuminu; to them, Imt without the nailor lu had conducted to Cola, which ^urprined thi ni, an(l caused some alarm. The Laplander Ik inj^ arrived, ^ave a letter to the master, who having lm»kc it oiK-n immediately, found that the writer was extremely astonished at his arrival at that Kluce with his crew ; thut he l)clicved tlK-m all lost u long time since ; that their return ad given him the greater joy, as he had regarded their loss an certain ; that he w(»uUl come very boon to meet them, with ull kinds of refrc shments. This letter was signed John Cornelisz Kiip. 80 agreeable a piece of news was received with great satisfaction. They jNiid the Laplander, and Ixsidcs made him a presint of a pair of l)reeches, st(M:kings, and some otlicr clothes, w) that he was (piite clothed in the iJuteh fashion. This man walked so quickly, thut it was perfectly astonishing : they had constantly travelled for twoditys and two nights, in order to arrive speedily at Cola, when they were Iwth together ; and at the return of tiie Laplander alone, Ik' had only been twenty-four hours on his journey. The sailors imagined titere was a little witchcraft in the busiuesii : he gave them a |>ar* tridge he had killed on his return. On the thirtieth they rt mained all day in anxious suspense to know who this John Cor- nelisz was who had written. It occurred to them sometimes that it might probably be the same John Cornelisz who had been ii\ their compiuiy ; but they afterwards rejected this idea, because they could not Ixlieve he was living, in the same manner as on his side he could not believe they were still alive. The hardships he had suffered, and would suffer, appeared to them still greater than theirs, and they consequently coticluded he could not have supported them, and that he wits certainly dead. At length the master looked for a letter that this John Cornelisz, who had sailed with him, had formerly ^vritten, and fmding it to 'x: die same hand-writing, he no longer doubted he wiis still alive. In the mean time they saw a yawl sailing tov/airds the coast, and when it approached, they recognized John Cornelisz, who was vnh the sailor they had sent to C(xil. This was a meeting of persons who had believed eu ,h other lost, and who beheld one another as risen from the dead. John Cornelisz brought with him a cask of Rastcx: beer, wine, brandy, bread, meat, pork, salmon, sugar, aivd several other refreshments. On the last day of August they got ready, and departed to proceed to Cola, after having returned many thanks to the Russians, and having paid well for their hxlging, setting sail at mid- night during the height of the tide. On the first of September, at day-break, which was about six in the morning, they found themselves to the west of the river of Cola, on which they proceeded, both row- ing and sailing at the same time, till midnight. On the second they continued to ascend the ri' -, on tl>e banks of which thev had the pleasure of seeing trees, and they imagined themselves arrived in another world ; for they had never yet met with trees in all the otlier places where they had landed. Between seven and eight in the evening they joined the vessel of John Conielisz. The meeting of the two crews was a new occasion for rejoicing, the more so as that of John Cornelisz had been in the voyage of the preceding year, with the same master. At dusk they entered Cola, and on the following day they unloaded their vessels and landed to refresh themselves, after incredible fatigues, in order to recruit their strength, and be in condition to complete the voyage to Holland. On the eleventh they t>l«Sr,HTATIOV or JOHN IHAAC; PONTANm, Ic. 127 obtained permission of tlic govtrnor, who wan there on the part of \\\v f(itat duke of Moncovy, to have thiir vchskIh coiuhictid t<» the ixihan^i", or warihoiisc ofihi- nurchantt, and to Icavf thcni there as sacred, in ordt r to nreservc thi nicniory of v) long and i\m\- gtnxis u vovagf, made by a route till then unknown, and in small vi ^seh without any covering, wliii h had navigated nearly loin* hundred lea^tles alon^j; the coastH, and in the main sea to Cola ; at which the inhabitants ol that city were in un nstoniuhment which would have Ih ( n diOicult to eK|)resH. On the fiftetnth nf SeptemlKT they came down the river in a bark, to get on board the vessel rW John Con irlis7„ which lay lulf a league from the town, and in the aftenuxMi the ves?«cl also desccrided half w«y rlinvn tl»e livcr, and beytMui the strait. On the eigh- teenth they left the river and stixxl out to sea, in ortU r to pnx-.eed to Holland. On tin- following day, at six in the evening, they came Ixifore Wardhuis, where they anchored, because Comelisz had yet to take in there some merchandise. On the sixth of October, in the evening, they weighed anchor ai\d left Wardhuis, and on the twenty-ninth of the same month theyentered tne Meusc, sailing with an K.N.K. wind. 'I'he following day they pnjceeded by land to Miuislandt-sluis, Delft, Haerleni, and on the first of November they arrived at Amsterdam, in the same dress they had wonv at Novaya Zemlia, and with the simie furred caps of foxes' skins : thence they proceeded to the house of Peter Hasselaar, who was one of the directors for the city of Amsterdam at the time of the equipment of the two vessels at that niace : that is to say, the one of John Cornelisz, and that of the master who had been to Novaya Zemliu, and returned. The return of tiiic remainder of the crew of the lost vessel occasioned much surprise to the people, who had thought them dead ; and as the re>port quickly spread through the city, it came to the ears of the chancellor of the king of Denmark, then his ambas. sador to Holland, while he was at tabic, and dining at the Prinshof.* The high bailiff of Amsterdam went himself with two other lords of the city to fetch them, and they made a recital before the ambassador and the burgomasters of Amsterdam of their voyage and adventures ; after that they retired. Those who had dwellings at Amsterdam went to their houses, and the others were placed at an inn, and their expences defrayed, until they had drawn up their accounts and had been paid. They ivere in all to the number of twelve. * The house where the counsellors of the admiralty assemble. DISSEnXATION OK THE LEARNED JOHN ISAAC PONTANUS, IN WHICH HE AN- SWERS THE OBJECTIONS OF THOSE WHO CONSIDER THE SEARCH OF A NOR- THERN PASSAGE AS A TASK OF TOO GREAT DIFFICULTY; AND IN WHICH HE PROPOSES THE MOST PROBABLE MEANS OF ACCOMPLISHING THIS DE- SIGN. (IBIO. VOL. I. P. 354.) THERE are some persons who might object that what has been attempted is abso- lutely impossible, that we have not been able to accomplish it, and that most probably we shali never succeed. But I answer, that the stime was formerly said of the navigation to the East Indies, which at present is so happily practised by the Dutch and Portuguese, 128 DISSERTATION' 01 JOHN ISAAC POiSTANUS, as we shiili mention in its place. It wa , said to be impossible to pass twice imdcr the iiuc, tiiat the hojx; was too slender, and the danger too great and certain. These ob- ject'oiiS and some others did not dissuade Emanuel king of Portugal from his design ; and he completed the discovery of that course through the ocean, which a year betore had been shewn b)' his predecessor, to the Cape of Good Hope. This prince having given the command of the fleet which he sent to ihe Indies to Velasco dc Gama, who accepted it, this commander embarked in 1497 at Calismalis, or Cadiz. * He directed his course to\vards Arabia, doubled the Cajie of Good Hope, made all the necessaiy discoveries, and arrived at the kingdom of Cidicut. At his return he related in presence of the king every thing he had performed. F'T besides the testi- monies J the ancients, they hi d entertained fresh hopes of succeeding in this naviga- tion from the account of certain iiersons whom the kuig had sent to Alexandria, with orders to pass from that place into Mauritania, which is above Egypt, whence they were to proceed towards Italy, in order to learn in all those places from the most able per- sons what route should be taken, after hav«ng passed wound the Cape of Grood Hope, in order to reach the Indies. With resi)ect to the ancients, it is true it seems probable that tlie route by this Cape may have been unknown to Ptolemy ; but Pliiy expressly relates several circumstances, from which it appears that the inhabitants of Cadiz formerly much frequented the parts on this side of the Cape : for he says, that when C. C^sar, son of Augustus, waged war on the Red Sea, wrecks of Spanish vessels were observed ; and that during the flour. ishing days of Carthage, when its power was dreaded, Hanno, having sailed from Cadiz to the extremity of Arabia, had given a description of that voyage. Besides, it may be inferred from Cornelius Nepos, that this same route was also known to the Arabs ; for he relates that in his time, one Eudoxus, who fled from Lathyrus king of Alexandria, having returned by the Red Sea, passed to Cadiz ; which is also precisely mentioned by Puny. But we must finish this digression, and return to our subject If therefore the Por- ji^'uese, from lending faith to these testimonies of the ancients, have met with a happy success, why shall we pay no regard to what these same ancients have related of the '^'uvigation by the north ? Their testimonies and the thing itself well deserve that we should make every imaginable attempt. I pass in silence what the chronicles of France and Denmark have said of those of Greenland ; which chronicles of Denmark, Ansgarius, and after him Albert, ministers of the gospel, have published at Hamburg, though at present their name is scarcely known ; but these things will appear in a new light, if they be compared with what has been related by Pliny already cited. This author tell us, on the faith of Cornelius Nepos, that fornicrly there was a famous navigation made by the north, and' he ad A^ances this proof : that when Q. Metellus Celer was consul with C, Afhinius, being also governor of the Gauls, the king of the Suabians made him a present of some Indians, who, being at sea for \ra£c, had been forced by a tempest and cast on Ger. jrnnv : he understands that pr/.t of Germany wher«; the Weser and Elbe discharge themselves into the sea ; for we have demonstrated cl^where that the dominion of the ancient Suabians extended to that place. It may be conjectured that these Indians had parted from Cape Tabin, which is in the north of Tartary, and is called Mount Tihin by Pliny ; and that they were of Seres, a neighbouring country, and where at pi^esent, are the frontiers of Cadiay, on the .id^ of the Dead Sea, thus named, or Sea of Mar. * This paper is onl^ ibserted on account t if its curiosity, geographer. PontanuB must have been a miserable CONCERNING THE NOnXII-EAST PASSAGE. 129 mora, or Maramarusat by the Cimbri, according as the same Pliny relates on the faith of Philemon ; and that the tempest had carried them to the coasts of Germany. If all these things be true, it will be found that the relation of the Samoiedes, which ve have heretofore seen, is to be credited, and that it is of great importance, since it discloses that the Russiuis every year, taking iheir opportu ity to sail to a certain cupc, which they call Ugoli'«, beyond the river Obi, arrive there in five days by that same sea before it freezes ; so Jiat the voyages we would make by the north should be undertaken by thb same route, which appears the most expeditious and sure, till better discoveries be made. We should follow the example of Emanuel king of Portugal, who, before equipping a fleet to proceed to the East, dispatched persons to reconnoitre the Red Sea, and the routes from that sea to the Indies, in order to kv.^r' ' , nature, and the gulfs which might be there. In the same manner, if we wduld wish to pass the Strait of Nassau, or of Weigats, persons should be sent at the public expence, who, taking the opportunity of the voyage made by the Russians every year, should join them, in order to proceed in their com- pany ; by tliis means we should ascertain if the sea beyond the Weigats is the great sea of Tartary, or only a gulf, beyond which we cannot pass : we should know if Cape Tabin be ad ways frozen, or if it be possible to sail beyond : we might, I say, be informed of all these things by the people inhabiting those climates, and who are acquainted with them. In order to fiicilitate this enterprise, there should be dispatched a ship of war of the lowest rate, and not so much attention paid to man it with a strong crew, as to compoge the crew of officers and sailors already accustomed to sail in those climates. This vessel should be stored * ^th provisi«^ns for a year, or even a longer time, and when arrived at the itrait, the plnce should be chosen which might be judged the most proper to winter b, from which there might be communication with the Russians and Samoides, and where they should wait the time of the passage of the Moscovites. It would be well also that some of the Dutch who trade to Japan shiould come by that side to Cape Tabin, or at least to the places which are the most neighbouring, and observe the route and the country. These are the most certain, and without doubt tlie only means, which can be put in practice to clear up this great mystery, that is, whether vessels may there meet with a passage. I am aware that others are c^. opinion it would be surer to direct the course through the main sea, and to sail around the northern coast of Novaya Zemlia, to the latitude of 82** or thereabouts, because the days and the summer are longer there, the ice not so frequent, nor in such quantity, along the coast ; and in fine, because the cold there is less severe than in latitude 76'', and b^low. I admit that all these things are thus on the globe, which isr extremely inclined and curved in this latitude, and which raises the sun on the horizon for nearly six months. Nevertheless, there are two reasons why this opinion should not be received. The first, that we have no knowledge of that cmnate, neither if it be all sea, or if there also be lands and islands. In the second place, supposing it possible to navigate there, the difficulty still remains the same ; that is to say, that it is necessary to descend from the latitude of 80° to the latitude of 70°, and below, and there to f'fifkr the inconveniences and the rigour of the cold and mountains of ice, in the nudst of which we should find ourselves ; to remain separated from all communication with men in unknown countries ; to be deprived of the brighmess of the sun ; to con- tend with yild beasts ; and finally, according to all appearance^ miserably to perish. To this has been reduced the success of the voyagts which have been undertaken to the present time. The first of those who visited the northern coast of America was VOL. I. s ISO DISSERTATION OF JOHN ISAAC P0NTANU9, 8ic. Nicholas Zenetus,* who, in the yea * 1380, after having been driven here and there, lost the hope he had conceived. In 15C0 Gaspard Cortesius, instead of the strait he sought, met with a rivtr, and having been obliged to return, he again undertook the same voyage the following year, and perished ; and his death was soon after followed by that of h:s brother Michael, who perished in the same research. Sebastian Cabot, a Venetian, having been sent, in 1506, by Henr,r VII, kin^ of England, also to seek a northern passage, was impeded by the ice, and returned without success. John Varascenus hav- ing sailed there in 1524, in the name of Francis I, king of France, who was prepossessed widi the same design, landed at Cape Britain, where he and his crew were devoured by the savages. Sebastian Gomesius, a Spaniard, took this same route in 1525, and all the honour he acquired was to b;ing away some sava|;e8. After ttiis, the English having formed the same design. Sir Hugh Willoughby, in 1553, arrived in latituu? 72°, where, from the cold and ouier inconveniences, he and his whole crew perished. Three years after, Stephen Burrough took the same routr and discovered the isles of Galgpievia, Novaya Zemlia, and some others ; but hav>r >• iv *y experienced the severity of thecdd of this climate, and foreseeing die consequ .a :&, he departed in time, and returned. Afterwards Martin Frobisher, Arthur Pet, Charles Jackman, and John Daf is, of the same nation, made the same att<:mpt without success. Frobisher, in 1576, returned on account of the ice : Pet and JatJiman experienced the odme fate in 1580, except that they more distinctly observed ^he coasts of Novaya Zem- lia. In 1585, Davi» disccvered a gulf, but to the present time the extent has not been sacertained. Finally, die Dutch in our days having rendered themselves famous in the art df navigation, 1^ their voyages and discoveries, were also willing to contribute to this last, and have acquitted themselves with honour, though they hav« failed ; for we have seen above the success of their enterprise. Thus I do not see that this rout« can be completely discovered, unless by the means I have just pointed out. * HoJipeUs ofthftjibnlous voyage of Nicholas Ztae. I ■nkn^'.' f r .1" ./• •> ■<., At I. A'^ - ■ ■' ■ ' % . i ' ■■ } ..' • 1 '•■.. ** K ... • •' v.-,:^">,. .. -• - ■•■ ■ ■■- 'r'> . 'it,- .lu.t ^',\. '■'.'■ '' ■> ■'•> 'K- ■ '-'■' ■ >> i«:r > C..v«. ■;;;?;..,; .;• ' .' • y^ '■ :■'■'! > •'■ .■ '** ttA-.i >«>/.,V7u:rir;v ■■ ;^' . - •■ ■<• ■ V v'ti'fit is.. -7 ,'.'";,Tvi;.;^ir ''■ . ' >=.{•<■' ^. .-/.. • , ^>'1 ..iifr*^.: ■''■'<' if. '■i-Utftt^.d'^f- >-^ .Sa,;.'. I'M-':., ■■: '.-ii: '.' . -v,-; -t-.r-tfl'i. -., . ;v« AftKi'f.VW. '' '^' ■■■■■ .«'.' ''-. -■^h'tii >■ t . I jl:Ha"^i^ '.■ I. ,M • .V 1 1 ■ - .'VUl/'.ii'V- ■■ •'- '■<' ■' , vincing proof that there is no intention of immediately giving it back ; and that the Spaniards, viho believed it«o strong, that they said, *' If the king of France wishes to take Cambray, he must build one," liave now taken leave of it for ever. This fortress, so famous throughout the world, was begun by Charles the Fifth, and has been increased by tnanj^ fortifications, which render it a very respectable place : its walls are astonbh- ingly high, owing to the great depth of the ditches ; but they are not on this account the stronger, as they lure almost wholly undermined. We were conducted everywhere 132 nECNAim's jotthnry to lapland. fcc. by an officer, who with pleasure showed us every thing worthy of observation, and pointed out to us the breach by which the Spaniards escaped. The city contains nothing remarkable, except the spire of the cathedral, which has Ijeen lately built with surprising delicacy of taste. We lodged at the Raven, and were very ill accommoda^'jd, owing to the number of strangers at this place. From Cambray to Valenciennes the distance is not greater than from Peronne to Cumbray. Valenciennes is situated upon the Esciiut, and they are fortifying it in such a manner as to render it impregnable. We observed carefully the place bv which it had been taken, and the gate through which the musketteers entered. This gate is constructed like a gate of vaulted iron, and had communication with a glacis ; it had not been open for twenty yei . and it was only so at this time fur the purpose of carrying in the body of the major, 'rnd been wounckd during an attack which had been made on this side : the muti ers, for whom it assuredly had not been opened, pur- sued the enemy, and, finding Uus entrance, continued their way ; and notwithstanding a shower of bullets pushed on to another gate, the portcullis of which, not having been used for a long time, it was found impossible to shut, and they made themselves masters of the cky. We entered the fortress, and as we had a kind of priest with us, they gave us two soldiers as c nductors. It is known that there is nothing Spanish in this coun- try but the disposition of the priests ; and they are carefully and cautiously watched, to prevent them from engaging in any improper enterprise. We observed that all the females in this country were hmidsome. In travelling from Valenciennes to Mons, it is customary to dine at Reverain, a place worthy of attention, both on account of the resi- dence of our armies, and of its being the spot which separates the tenitories of France and Spain : we arrived in good time at the city, and had sufficient leisure to view it with attention. Mons is the capitid of Hainault, and the first town under the d :ninion of Spain on this side ; but it remains so only until it please France to take it under her protection : it may be considered one of the strongest fortresses of the Low Country, on account of its situation, being surrounded with marshes. The burghers form its garrison, and we saw them mount guard in the great square, which is extremely handsome. The prince of Aremberg, a Spanish nobleman, whu is niso duke of Arcot, and of the fint family of the Low Cbuntry, is governor. That which gratified me much in Mons, and which is singular enough, was the royal college of Canonesses, founded by a ' — , who established this community for the reception of ladies of quality, who remain here until they leave it for the purpose of being married. These ladies perform the service with peculiar gracefulness : they have one dress in wliich they attend church in the morning, and another in which they visit the city in the evening, when they attend the best com- pany, and are perfectly well received, on account of the gallantry which they pfofess. We ascended the great tour, from whence we viewed the whole city, and where we alio saw an excellent chime of bells, which the Dutch and Flemings are very fond of. After leaving Mons, we intended to sleep at Notre Dame de HaUe. This place of devotion has been, in common with others, much abused by the armies encamped in its neighbourhood, which have had no regard for the reverence which all Flemings fed for this church, dedicated to the Vii^n. We observed on leaving Mons the spot where the famous battle of St. Denis was fought, on the evening previous to the proclamation of peace in the army, and at the dme when the prince of Orange had in hb possession the articles of peace actually signed : we were r>ocompanied by an officer who was pre- sent at the engagement, and who shewed us the posts and positions which die two armies occupied. The batde is also denominated that of Cassi»i, whidi is the appellation of a little village opposite to that abbey, whose name distinguishes this engagement. RRGNARiys JOURNEY TO LAPLAND, l«C. 133 We at length arrived at Brussels, the second city of Brabant : it is extremely agree- able, aixl very i)upulous, as it is the ordinary place ol' rehidence of the governors of the Low Country, and consequently of a numl>er of men of quality who attend the court ; c Uiis account it is called The Noble. The governor's palace is the finest building in the city, both on account of its size, and of the line park which surrounds it, serving as an agreeable promenade to all the inhabitants, and delighting the sight by the number of fountains which it contains. The prince of Parma is the present governor : he has placed the militia on an excellent footing, re-establishing it by great levies made upon the people, who have not been extremely well pleased with the measure. The town- house is a curious structure : it was erected by an Italian, who hanged himself with vexation, as his epitaph informs us, because he had neglected to place the tower in the middle. This man performed that office for himself wliich a hangman should have done ; for he deserved no better than a cord, for having lx:en deficient in a point which men the most ignorant of architecture would by no means have neglected. The churches of Bnissels, like those of the Low Country, are very handsome, and kept in excellent repair. We saw in the collegiate church, called St. Gudule, three miraculous hosts, on which we were told that some spots of blood could be discovered. We went to sec the society of Beguins, which b a peculiar order in this country : they are clothed in white when at church ; but they walk through the streets in a long black cloak, which covers them from head to foot : they have also a little cap on their heads, which forms a ". jry handsome dress ; and I observed girls in this religious habit, whom I should have loved in preference to many others shining in gold, and sparkling with diamonds. At this time there were eight hundred at Beguinagc. The court of fashionables here is the same with the court among us : here all the ladies and cavaliers are to be met with ; but there is this difference, however, that all the ladies are here on one side, and the gendemen on the other. We passed three days very pleasantly at Brussells, and after having seen even* thing worthy of observation in the city, we set out on the sixteenth day of May by the canal which communicates with Antwerp ; but by which we only went to , where we lefl the boat, for the purpose of taking coaches to Malines, wUch we wished to see before our arrival at Antwerp. Malines is termed The Beautiful, and not without reason ; for it appears to be rather a painted, than a real city, the buildings being regular, and the streets handsome, and well paved. It is to this parliament, the first of the Low Country, that every process which b appealed is referred ; and this circumstance renders the city celebrated. This province is dismembered from the rest of the Low Country, and forms a marquisite by Itself. All the common people work, as b the custom throughout Flanders, at the manufacture of white lace, which bears thb name ; and Beguinage, which is the latest and most valuable of them all, is only supported by the labour in which the Beguins are engased» and in which thev excel. The Beguins are religious ^ris or women, who retire to thb place as often as they think proper ; they have each a little house to them- selves, where they receive the visits of their reladons ; there are even some of them who take boarders. The place is called Beguinage, and the gates are shut early in the evening. There b at Maunes a tower remarkable for its height, which commands a most extensive prospect. From Malines, where we dined, we were to go in the evening to Antwerp m coaches, which travel every day at a certain hour, and by the most charming and beautiful road which I have ever seen. Antwerp, the capital, and the moat extensive city of Brabant, and to which one might mvt tides still more respectable, surpasses all the cities I have seen, Naples, Rome, and Yenioe excepted, not only by the magnificence of its buildings, the pomp of its churches, '•m ■■I I )i ytf 134 BRfiNARD'S JOLTINRY TO LAPIAND, fcc. and the size of its spacious streets, but also by the manners of its inhabitants, the itlost polite of whom endeavour to imitate the French manners both with rcg-ard to dress and language, which they are proud of possessing in perfection. That which first excited our admirt- , sister of Charles, and consequently the king's aunt. Philip, to whom they belonged, wished to levy some new t?xes from the people, and to establish the inquisition among them. The Dutch placed themselves in opposition to the nevir declarations, and the prince of Orange, supported by count Horn, and by — — — ^, at the head of the populace, remonstrated to the governess, and proposed two hundrad articles, respecting which they requested satisfaction. This lady, suipiised at the tumult^ turned round to one of the chief men of her council, who told her, m derision, that she ought not to give herself any uneasiness about a set oj" Beggars. This saying being report- ed to tlie mutineers, they became so enraged that they estaSlished a party, which has since been distinguished by the name of The Beggars. The governess, however, returned to Spain, being conscious of the factious disposition of the inhabitants of the Seven Pro> vinces, and not wishing to shew them that she could not consent to a part of the ardcljss which they proposed : this led Philip the Second to send the duke of Ava, who after. .M'^AMatrA - UB(;NAR0'8 JOUUNKY to LAI'LANU. he. 135 t wards shed so much blood, and produced the complete rebellion of the Provinces : it is said that he destroyed, by the hands of the executioner, more than eighteen thousand persons. He convoked the States at Brussels. Count Horn, not wishing to appear ringleader of the mutiny, went thither; but the prince of Orange, fearing the Spaniards, whom he distrusted, leA the States, that he might not be obliged to attend. Count Horn meeting accidentally the prince of Orange, who absented himself, '* Farewell^ (sa}s he) Prince without territories :" to which the prince replied, " Farewell, count without a head:" which was rfterwards found to be true; for being arrested at the meeting of the States, they cut off the count's head, together with those of an almost countless number of individuals, who were supposed to belong to his party, or who were suspected to do so, it being treason in the opinion of the Spaniards to be an object of suspicion to the king. The prince of Orange, being sensible by the death of Count Horn and his adherents that he had acted with proper prudence, wished still to consult his safety, and stren^hening the party of the factious, he put himself at their head, and afler many battles, in which he was continually worsted, he at length took the Brille, from which the duke of Ava, endeavoured, in vain, to expel him. This gave occasion to the pictures made of him, in wliich he is ludicrously represented with spectacles on his nose, Brille in Dutch signifyiiig spectacles. Hollanr is divided into Seven United Provinces, which are denominated Guelderland, Holland, Zioland, Utrecht, Friezland, Overyssell, and Groningen. We arrived at Rotterdam at midnight, and were obliged to go over the walls, that we might enter the city, as the gates were shut. This city is the second of the whole country ; and it is easy to judge of its richness, by the number of vessels which are to be seen here from every country, and which Hll the canal of the city, though it is extremely large. This city b remarkable fur the extent of its commerce, as well as the beauty of its houses, which are possessed of all that neatness so characteristic of all the cities of Holland. The statue of Erasmus is placed in the middle of the great square : he was bom in this city, and certainly deserved from the republic, a statue in bronze upon the bridge which is situated in the middle of the square. We left Rotterdam at two o'clock of the afternoon, in boats, which are extremely commo- dious in all i^arts of Holland : they set out, every one at different times, and half an hour after each other ; in consequence of which, some of them depart every half hour both of the day and the night tbi a hundred different places ; and so punctual are they, that the horse is yoked to the boat as soon as the hour is ready to strike ; and before it has fully struck the horse sets off. We travelled to Delft, a little village at the distance of two leagues from the Hague, where we saw the brother of one of our friends whom we had left in slavery at Algiers. We entered the principal church of the city, and viewed the tomb of the famous admiral Tromp. In the evenhig we arrived at the Hague, which is the finest village in the world: it is the prince of Qran^'s ordinary residence. He was not here at this ume, but had gone to a great hunt m Geripany, upon the lands of , with the . Th^ prince of Orange is denominated William the Third of Nassau. The late wars have rendered him popular in Holland, and he has, consequently, been declared Stadt- holder, captain -general of the armies belon^g to the United Provinces of the Low Country, and grand-admiral. The States allow him the sum of a hundred thousand francs per annum, besides defraying the expences of his private establishment. Some individuals wished him, and tried to entice him, to declare himself king of Holland, while he was ab- solute master of the troops. But those who had more wisdom pointed out to him, not only thecUfficulty attending the execution of this project, but the impossibility of maintiuning ran IQQ RF.UNARD'S JOURNKY TO LA. LAND, kt. the sovercififntv, even were he fortunate enough to acquire it. They argued that Holland would be completely and sjxitdily destroyed, if it became the property of a master, and ceased to be a republic, and that on account of the great expencc which would be constantly required for the preservation of the coimtry ; that a prince would be obliged to raise large sums upon his subjects, which, whilst they were indulged with the title of freemen, they would pay with pleasure, as all they gave was for tlic general good ; it is on this account, that no country is more harrassed by taxes and imposts than Holland ; and the people flatter themselves, that, as it is they who im- pose diem, ihey have it in their power to refuse them whenever they please. This counsel, the most prudent and politic, was followed by the prince of Orange, who found his account in it. The States of Holland hold their sittings at the Hugiir, which is the chief cause of its magnificence. The houses of some individuds are very beautiful, but the palace of the prince has nothing in it remarkable. On the contrary, it is surprising to see him so indifferently lodged, whilst some merchants dwell in far grander mansions. We saw the chambers of the States, one of which is handsome enough, and which M. Del said he would undertake to gild for two thousand crowns, though, according to the general calculation, it cost more than ten thousand crowns of gold ; but, he added, he understood that they had furnished it for him. M. Davaux was here at this time, ambassador. We saw him in mourning on account of the recent death of the CheVa- lier M. Mesme, his brother-in-law, whom I have seen at Rome, and who hud been lately killed by the stroke of a stone. On leaving the palace, we viewed a gate in the neighbourhood of the house of M. De , the place where the murder of Pensionary De Witt hajppened, who was destroyed by the populace, at the commencement of the war. ThiSM^Vi place at the instigation of the prince of Orange, who was displeased with him for publishing an edict, which had been issued a short time before, forbidding the people to recognise the prince as their sovereign, which it was their wish io do. Prince William of Nassau, who was at the head of the patriots when they threw off the Spanish yoke, behaved so generously during the whole of the war, that the Dutch, afler the Spaniards had been obliged to recognise them and their Republic as indepcu- dent states, were forced to reward, his valour, by conferring on him the title of Protector of the States. This tide is enjoyed by his successors. But the council of* the pro- vinces, and especially the De Witts, who composed a particular fttction, and who were encouraged by many others, published that perpetual law, by which it was declal^d illegal ever to propose the prince jaf Orange as sovereign, and even obliged the present prince, while young, to sign it. During these transactions, war with France com- menced ; and the people, dreading the French yoke, and believing, that, if they had the prince of Orange at Uieir hdd, they would perform wonders, proposed him. But being prevented by this perpetual edict, they brake out against De Witt, the general of the forces, and caused him to be arrested, acoHsing him^ of high treason, and of wishing to overtura the government ; but finding no evidence sufficient to convict him, they contented themselves with banishing hiiill, for the pur{>ose otsi^ihfy- ing the people and the faction of the prince of^range. His brother, pensionary, at the Hague for the affairs-: of the province of Holland, demandM permission to visit him ; but,, in endeavouring to enter the prison, the people mutiraed, suffering with impatience the sight of a man who opposed their schemes, fell upon him, and oarba- rously assassinated him on the spot. They drew him to a little distance, where fhey hung*^ him by the neck. £very body crowded to this sdene, and so en-^v ;>ed were the people, • HKCiNAnn'S JOl'RNEV TO L,\l'l.\Nn, kc. J3y Uiat they cut the body in pieces, unci took uway with them lumps offlibh, wliicli they sold some day!> ulk-rwurd!>, Kt u high price, tu those who hud not enjoyed tlie sati*.Uiei.i\)!i of bcinfj; prcbent at this mussacre. 'I'Ik- |K;ople, who are femciouii hiiiles, deliy;liii..f^ ul. ways in extixnicii, because destitute of aahon, and either loo timid, or too nish, Imvc alre;>dy relented of this action. They are sensible, thiil the law was made for their interests ; luid the Pcasionary's death was the first check whicli the republic received. The United Provinces are indebted, under Heaven, to the princes of Oran};;c lor their liberty, who forced the king of Spain to sign the treat}', and tr) recognize the Dutch as a free people, inde|ien(lunt of every other, which is a very remai kable cir- cumstance. William the First cemented with his blood the foundation of the re pub' lie. Maurice and Henry, his sons, advanced its glory, by Ixing conquerors in scvi r.il tnigagcmcnts. William the Second, not inferior to the rest, died very young, and left, as the successor of his virtues, William tlie Third of the same name, the piesent prince of Orange, son of William the Second, and Mary Stewart, eldest tlaughter of Charles the First, king of England, who was beheaded. In the thirty -sixth or thirty.seventh year of William the Second's age, William the Third was l)om, who has since mar- ried the daughter of the Duke of York. He was not bom till after his father's death, and he was, when eleven years of age, deprived of the princess royal, his mothe", who died at London, of the small-pox, the same disease which had carried ofl' her husband, William the Second. It b known to all the world, that Holland is a state purely republican ; but it will be proper to say something more particular resjieciing its government. Every city is governed by a magistrate, burgo-masters, and councillors, liesides a bailiff, in criminal causes, who discharges his office at the will of the council, and who determines absolutely, in criminal afiairs, of the sentence of the burgo-masters. Alx)\-c a ceitBio sum, an appeal m^ be made to the provincial court, to which every city sends a councillor. ^ Tlie depudes from the cities con^pose the States of the Province ; and the deputies from the Provinces form the States General, who enter into alliances, form treaties, im- pose taxis, and attend to the general interests of the republic. The Provinces have nil equally tlie same influence ; but tht province of AmstenJam generallv swuyn the balance, and infludllces the deoisioqs, accordmg to its wbh. That city alone is considered a provliice. It is a natural conclusion tpat the sovereignty is not resklent4n the States Gentral, who consist solely of envoys from the cities, for the purpose of proposing in the council those matters which they wish to be considered The Hague is the place where the Dutch nobility reside, and it Is, perhaps, the most charming residence in the world. A large forest of tall trees, botMidm^on every side by magnificent palaces, and surrounded hf dktensive and beautiful meadows, renders its appearance one of the most pleasant in Europe. Before the Stadthouse, there Is a pond sulrounded with pieces of hewn stone, while large trees on its boiders adorn the palace of the prince. One can travel in a quarter of an hour from the ha^ne tok, the sta» by a charming road. In going thither, we saw a chariot with sails, which fhe prince of Orange bad causQ4 to be oonstructed, and we went into a place, where they ride rou -X a ringon wooden horses. Wf went to view a residence of the prince, where he passes part of the year, and maintiuns a number of curious beasts. We tfso saw some cows from Calicut, of a peculiar atnxture, with bunches on their •jjltcks, besodes a number of stags. We left tne Hague, and dined at Leyden, which is called Itugdunum \tavorumt ai|d which is respectable on account of its university, its anatomioU preparauoids, aq(l tJbp pnwriety of iif buildingB ; it is in my opinion, the most VOL. I. -. * f I" 136 RPCiVAHn'S JOIHN'KV TO I.M'I.ANO, do. i: ?1 respectable of nil the Dutch towns. Wc haw here a i)umlx;r of curioHitit'«i, and among others, a hippopotanuis ur sea-cow, which had been brongkt iVoni Inili.i. In the anato- mical mnscinn they show a rpi.tntity of preparations, sonuincrous, that a cutalogtic of them would l)e siillicient to fill a large volume. Vrom I A vden we travelled to Amsterdam, and saw Haarlem on the road, where wc observeil ii Urgt.: church : we arrived al Am^ter(lam in the evening. 'I'his city of cities, r.o ri nowned throughout the whole universe, may well be considea-d a muster-piece. The houses are magnificent, the streets spacious, and the canals extremely Urge, with their banks hinged with trees, which, mixing their verdure with the various colours with whi(h the houses art painted, form one of the most delightful scenes in the world. The city a|)pears double. One can see it in the water, and the reflection of the palaces in the canals anders this place a charming a-sidence. The town- house is situated on the dam; this structure might have been reckoned one of the Hnest in Eu- rope, if the architect had not been deficient in the plan, and had made some distinction betwixt the windows and the entrance, which it is necessary to look for on oil sides, and olien to in(|uire for. We ascended the stairs of the building, when* wc saw a magazine of arms, and a very fine chime of bells. From tiie spire, we observed Utrecht, which was the place that bounded the conquest of the king. The house of correction is one of the most useful establishments I know, it contains all the females of infamous cliaraotcr, who are shut up in it, for a certain time, and obliged to work. Perhapa'there is no town in the world, Paris excepted, where there is so much debauchery, as in Amster- dam. However, there is this difference between them, that in this city there are certain districts, where Jwiwds reside, and maintain, in their houses, a certain number of girls. The gentleman is shown into » chamber, which has a communication with a number of small ones, of which he pays for the entrance. The portrait, and the price of the lady which the chamber contains, are fixed above the door ; the choice is left to the gfentle- man ; but the lady will not venture out till the price is paid, and if the portrait has flat, tered, so much the worse for him. The work-house is another receptacle for vicious penions, and childrsn whose parents have been unable to reclaim them, where they a* >i employed to gi4)id cinna- mon. There is in the great churQ^ of Amsterdam' a cliaik< of iiVimense value, on ac- count of the excellence of its workmanship. At Amstcr<»*am, and diroU^hout Hol- hind, all kinds of relijc^ons, exce|h the jCatlv)lic, are tolerated; this. exceptional an examnle o{ tlieir good policy, as they are convinced, that if ever the Catholics ac- quired power, it would be a gtWAt check to their liberty; and might prove its destruc- tion. One sees here, Lutherans, Calvinifits, Armenians, Nestonans, Atrrabaptists, and Jewi^wh* are more powerful 'in this place than in any- other country : Their synagogue here is infinitely suffEriol* to that of Venice. The India house, which is .^vithout the oity, shows ^i^arly that H belongs to tijfi richest merchants in Europe. They were building here a very. fine ^i[^ which Wastso sail for India in a mo|ith. Wc went to see their ships of war, which had no very respectable appearance, and Id^L^ not distinguish one, which was equak in beauty to our own. They ^sapprove of quarter-galleries, which are frequent with us, ijjjpid suppo^ that they obstruct the ship's motion, but this addition, so %(iron^ being any disadvantage, b, I find, extremely useful to the officers, and omameotal to the vessel. At Amsterdam, we lodged at Chellier's, at the Place Reyile, in Kajyerstraat. We knew M. de Reswic,'who Is descended of one ofthe first families in' Hfijlailfd, and who, in the late wars, expendig^ large sums of money. He shewed Miss Homia, kj& mistress, heiress to a very fine ibrtuiiG, and, ii^e him, a Cat)|plk. ««^^e saw tliem t(|j;et^er a^ the opera.^t the re- i lir.riNAiti)ii JoritvEY to lai'LAnd. Im. IJO prcscntntion of U»c nipc of Hilin. Wc were informed at tlic < om< dy that ihc whole bum rtccivcd i!> given to the poor, und that the eity \Myh the eomcdiuiis, who receive n certain calory. Wc left Amsterdam on the tucnty-lifth day of May, IfiHl, and wirivcd at Liu hiiysc ill Uu.' eveninf^, whciv we only staid while we ts, on accoinit of ihf ^rcat numlxr-i whielj the inhahituut^ cateh of this lish. \Vc hired a bait in the <. veiling to Workmn, where \w arrived next mominfi;. 'Vim piovinec ih called North Holland, and I do not IxTicvi' thtri- are finer women aJiy where, ttum what art here to be met n\ iih. The peasant girb |)Oi»!iC!>s charms not inferior to those of the ancient Homans, and they are siiiUciLnt to inspire love at first sight. Wc arrived at Lewiirdcn, the capital of Friesland, a very handsome town, whi( h chose the prince of Nassiiu for its governor, not wishing to vote for the prinrt- of Orange. This prince is about twenty. live or twenty -six years of age. He lost his father about eiglucx*n years ago, at the seventh year of his age. This prince died in consequence of an unlucky accident : a pistol, which went oft* accidentallv, at once deprived Europe of a great mail, and Frieslund of a generous governor, fie left bc- liind him a widow, illustrious for her birth and her merit, Albertine of Orange, daughter of prince . Henry and Amdiu dc Solmcs. The prince survi\ed seven or eight day* after the accident, and the |x'ople of Fricsland, out of gratitude for the good condi'C of the father, ofl'ered die government to his son, who was at that timi' extremely young, and appointed him no other governor than the princess his mother. We left Lewardcn, and having travelled the whole night, wc arrived by day -break at GfXHiingen, a city very pleasiintly situated, and which became famous in the late war, for the siege which it sustained against the bishop of Munster, who invested it at the head of twenty -four thousand men. But the exceUence of its fortifications and the courage of its mhabitants forced the besit gers to abandon their works after a siege of six weeks during which tliey lost a great luimber of men. From GroninRcn we travelled to Oldenburg, which belongs, at present, to the king of Denmark. This city has given its name to the whole county. {^Vo years ago it was destroyed by lightning : they are begiwiing to rebuild it, and the king of Denmark is rearing some fortifications. Th^ have here a horn of plenty, which nas givfgn rise to the story of a woman, who, ri^a^^out of the earth, presented herself to the count of Oldenburg, with this horn in her liand, full of a liquor which he was unacquainted with. The prince was then at the chace, ata distance fro.n his ocople, and muoh exliaul^d. But being ignorant of this .liquid, and- seeing an ^xtraorainary woman, he wpuld npj touch it, but poured it upon the buttocks of his horse. The strength of this liquor carried off all the hair from the places it had touched. , ,. . The king had departed from Oldenburg, for Copenha^n only two days bcfprc our .^vHval. On the same evening we arrived at BreJiien, a republic whose territories arc ^^rrounded with those of S^igdon and Denmark. The city is handsome, but of such small extent, that the w;dli,^most tpuch the territories of their neighbours. From Bremen we saw nothing remarkable^ till we arrived at Hamburg ; and ^ve were five days and five nights constantly t|;^elling in their poSt waggons, before we finished the journey. From Hambui^ to Amsterdam the distance is calculated at sixty miles, which. I^amount to a hundred and thirty French Jeaghes. ^ Hdmbui^ is a Hanseatic town, free and imperial, which, from Its cjccellent militia and fcgular jbrtifioations, has n<|th)ng to fear from a number of princes, who are very I I I 140 Ny.flMARIl'S JOI'NNKV ro L\Pt.ANI>, ke. I; '1 anxioiiM to pomcHH this rich tnnHurc, uikI, jHtrticularlv, tlic kino; of Denmark, for whom it Im very convniiontly hitiiiitcd. 'V\m pnticc bkntkadi'd it uiirin^ the late warn with five Kiui twenty thon^aiKl mui ; but M.x'iii^ the ntitnlKt of auxiliary i'orco which arrived from ull {jiiurtcr**, he could do rwthinK more. He n'MiKiied, a short time after, for the Kum of t" o hundred thousand cniwnn, all his prctcnHioiM to thin city. It in ^;overnecl by four bur^o-maHtcnt, and eighteen councilloni. The ladies* here arc very hand- some, and rover their faces, accordiuf^ to the SpaniHh faMhi(Ni. The Luthenm religion is profe-wcd here, where they have a Im)IIow pine a hundred ycam old. Their operas ui£ pretty well represented, and I found that of Alcestc excellently pi*rformod. 'rhc whole cotmtry is excellent, and very fertile. Tlieir carriages arc extremely con- venient, and tiM: horse:* arc excellent, and run continually. JOUnVRV TO UP.NMARK. f FROM Humburpf, wc set out for Copenhagen, which Is about a hundred and twenty leafj^iKS distant from it. At Pinncnbcrg, tliree miles from the city, we saw the queen mother of DenniiU'k, who was going to the waters of Pyrmont with prince George her son, and younger brother of the king. From Pinnenberg, we proceeded t Lm(x:, Rensburtj, Flcr.sbur^, Assen, Niel)ury, Castor, Rochild. Tlie latter was for v the residence of the Dainsh kings. Their tombs arc still to be seen hxftt ; that 0/ ilian the First is tK'autiful. We saw the model of his statue, and it was with difficulty that I reached up to iL Tlu: queen mother is of the house of Luneburg. She went to the camp to see the young (jueen, wkh whom she is by no means on a friendly footing ; an'* she would not receive the visits of the ambassadors, because they visited tlic young queen before her. All tlie above-mentioned towns are handsome : the women carry all kinds of baskets, made of very fine twigs, upon their heads. At Assen I lost a portmanteau.^ Frederic the Third was the first king under whonrf the kingdom became'^hereditary. He was supported by the merchants of Copenhagen, who could not bear the tyranny of the nobles. They encouraged him in his enterprise, and rewarded turn with their services. The merchants and people were so abiiscd by the noble^. that they could kill any one of them, if they deposited a crown under the body* of the deceased. . Froderic did not attempt to take this privile|;e from the nobilitv ; but he ordained, that if a merchant or a peasant killed a noble, b that case thfey snould place tw:o crowns below the dead body. ^ ' '•t." -^ ' * \, * J« .•*■ ' ITie coffin which contains the body of Frederic the Third, late king Qfuenmailc, and father of the present, is very rich| and covered with various |)ieces of workmanshqt in silver. Copenhagen is very aclyaatageously situated on the Baltic sea. It is a frontier town W th* side of the province of SchQnen,-4nd sustained a 'skge very vigorously, during two years, against Gustavus Adcdphus, the father of queen Christina, whom we bafw seen at Rome. The spires of Sainta Maria bear the marts of this si^. "' .*" '^■'^' The Louvre is a very ordinary building, covered with "Brass, which was formerly the residence of bishops, when the king's court was held at Rochild. The stable is very handsome, and very long, and contains a number of excellent horses ; and the riding* house, which is near it, is a verji^Qurious striMnure. It was here that the rejoicing took place when the queen of Sweden left Copenhagen. There are no buildings worth looking at in this city, ^ we except'the |j&Iace of the queen mother, the garden of the 'king, and that of the duke of Guldenlei^ which is I RrfiNARH')! JOURVKY TO I.An.AVn. Ii«. 141 the title of all the fint luMtariLi of the kii))( of Denmark, and incntin lAon (lore ; and wIm-ii the kin^ upon the ihruiic begetsi a CjiiUicitlcu, that of the late kin)( takcH the title of high miKhtiiie;i;iicH { and we arrived at Co|x;nha(]^>n on ThurMtay, at the oiK.ning; of the gate. \Vc Icxlged at KrantH. Frederit; the Third was arclibishon of Bremen, hut was elected king, on the death of his elder brotlu r. He had six children, two of them hoy<», aiul four girls. The sons were king Christian, and i)rincc Ge nil's vessel has a hundred guns. The Icings of Denmark never sent out such a num* her of ships before, and the last victory which they gained over the Swedes acquired them immortal honour. The arsenal contains a number of fine pieces of cannon. There are even some of highly polished steef, which were manufactured iiL Moscovy. In a J[iall above, there are^.^inns for Mxty thousand men, a chariot wlucfimoves of itself, and another, in the wheels of which there is'a clock, which strikes tke hour according to the motion of the wiieels. All the spoils which the Danes acquired in their late wars with the Swedes are here placed, with the equipage of seventeen vessels, which were taken at one time. The king's cabinet is above the library. There are several chambers filled with curiosities; among others, there is a t^l of a horse, which is the mark pf authority among the Turks, and which the bashaws place before their tents, when they are at the army; the grand seignior has three, and the visier two. We saw a beautiful ^itimale mandrake, the slippers of a girl who w^s dejioured 'without being consclc^is of it, M nail which they told us is one of Nebuchadnezzar's, and one of the children of that countess of Flanders, who brought fordi, at one birth, ^s many as there are in July, 1681. , J^ That country at pre^nt denominated Sweden was anciendy called Scandia, or bcm- dinavw, and is litUe else, if we may say so, than an bland, which stretches betwixt the Ocean, the Baltic Sea, and the Gulf of Bothnia. ... • ,r ^ This province is not extremely fertile throughout. Lapland is sterility itselt ; and this people, whom I have had the curiosity to visit at the end of the world, are equally destitute ofbodily and mental food, having neither corporeal nor spintual nourishment •*■ I m ' 144 REGNARD'S JOUnNEY TO LAPLAND, ke. P' i- i i » ► But Gothland and O^trogothiu arc so fertile, in some places, that they may be com- pared to France ; and the soil is so rich, that it rears in the space of three months the same commodities, which it takes nine months, in other places, to produce. There arc other places, \vhere nature must be forced in order to produce nourishment sufficient for the inhabitants, Schonen, Schunmoland, Angermania, and Finland ; and it is here, wnere nature, refusing fertility f the plains, gi ants in iis stead abundance to the forests, which in winter are burnt by the inhabitants, for the purpose of sowing in their ashes grain in spnng, which arrives at greater perfectioii, and in a shorter time, than any where else. The Swedes arc naturally a brave people ; and without mentioning the Goths and Vandals, who, scaling the Alps and the Pvrennees, conquered Italy and Spain, let us for a moment attend to Gustavus Adolphus, the chief of conquerors, who was followed by very few Swedes, and who victoriously overran the whole of Germany, like lightning, making every prince sensible of the force of his arms. Let us consider a Charles Gustavus, the last king of this country, who reduced the Danes, his moat formidable enemies, to such a degree, that they were obliged to retire within the walls of their capital, which was the only place in the kingdom remaining in their possession, where he besieged them two years, and who, after many engagements, died of a fever at Gottenburg, aged thirty-seven years, on the twelfth day of February, 1660. This prince, \vno was constandy periforming wonders, forced Heaven itself to aid and assist him, and to perform miracles in his favour, it hardened the waters <^ the Belt, for the purpose of afibrding him an opportunity of performing a heroic action. Charles the Tenth led all his troops over a frozen sea two leagues in width, with all his cannon, and encamped there, where he remained several days, with an intrepidity of resolution which surprised every body, but which was natural to Mm. If this pnnce was i^ great warrior, he was equally an excellent politician ; and he displayed it clearly during the reign of queen Christina; for, while she amused herself with consulting men of letters, whom she invibed from all quarters, but who tau^t her not the airt of reigning, he embraced the opportunity of gaining the affections of all the senators, who were dis- gusted with the administration of the queen, and v/ho obliged her to re^gn the govern- ment in his favour. Was it not the great Gustavus Adolphus who led the way to thb worthy successor ? and who, after having led a life wholly warlike and heroic, ended his days in the field of victory, and in the mklst of his troops, in consequence ci a musket shot, which deprived Europe of its greatest conqueror. Queen Christina was a worthy descend- ant of this great prince. This princess had a ^oul truly royal, and exhausted ail thlj^ praises of ingenious men. She might have reigned longer, if she had been taore mistress of herself; and the jealousy which she excited amongst the senators, who beheld with impatience the greatest favours lavished on Ritrosse, by whom she had children, obliged her to resdgn the crown. She changed her reli^on at the instigation of the Spanish ambassador, who promised her, that if she became a Catholic, she should be married to the king hb master. She remained at Rome almost all her life, after she abdicated the throne, and subsisted on ten thousand crowns, wluch the Pope gave her annually as a pension, till the king of France put her in possession of all her propertv. She kept in her own hand the fertile islands of Aland and Gothland, situat- ed in tne Baltic Sea^ but slie exchanged them, a short time ago, for the territory of Norcopin in Ostrogothia. Charles XI, the present king, is son of Charles Gustavus, count Palatine, of the house of Deux Ponts, and of Hedwige Eleonora, youngest daughter of the duke of -•l^f^. ■.J; RRONARD'8 JOUnNEY TO LAPl.ANO, &c. 145 Holstein. He is a prince who does not disgrace the dignity of his ancestors : his com- manding and royal demeanour displays that he is descended from the race of the illus- trious Gustavi. His disposition is completely warlike ; and as he has no enemies lo war with, his chief employment consists in hunting the bear. This sport is rather fol- lowed in winter tlian summer ; and when a peasant has discovered traces of the bear, by means of his footsteps in the snow, he informs the chief huntsman, who conducts the king to the spot. The bear is an intrepid animal : he does not fly at the sight of man, but walks on witliout swerving from his path. When he is observed to be suffi- ciently near, it is necessary for the hunter to alight from his horse, and wait till he come pretty close to him ; he then gives the animal a severe stroke, which obliges him to raise nimself on his hinder legs : this is the time to strike, and it is very dangerous not to wound him mortally ; for he now approaches the hunter with fury, and embracing him with his fore feet, generally stifles him ; on this account it is necessary to have a pistol, for the purpose of shooting him, and if this fails, a short spear must be reserved for dis- patching him. We saw one at Stockholm, which the king had killed with his own hand, in rescuing his favourite Vaqmester, who was almost destroyed by it. This animal lies in his den three or four months in the year, and during all this time takes no other nourishment than what lie procures from sucking his paw. The king has alwn\ s in his possession three or four little bears, whose teeth and claws are ptu-ed every month. I knew at Copenhagen M. de Martangis, the ambassador, who conferred on pd^ a thousand favours : I was several times entertained by him. He conducted me lu ' he house of Madame countess of Rantzau, whose husband was ambassador in France : I supped there with the beautiful ladies Revinsdau and Grabe, the latter of whom may justly be considered a pertect beauty. 1 also met there Madame de Ratelau and M. du Boineau, a native '^ Rochelle, one of the captains of the royal navy, who quitted the service on /iccount ,. lis religion. ♦ I left Copenhagen, .md set oul for Stockholm ^n the first day of Jn!y. We saw Fredericksburg, the king's pleasure-residencC; whicli may be denominated the Versailles of Denmark. The chapel is very magnified % the pulpit and altar, and a numbei of other figpres, being solid silver ; but that which appeared to me the most curious was, an organ made of ivory, the sculpture of which " said to have cost eighty Uiousand crowns. The oratory of the king, which U behind the chapel, and where he hears the service, is a place in which nothing has b< ' n spared for the purpose of rendering it mag- nj^ent. We were .conducted through all the apartments of the palace, in Avhich we observed nothing remarkable, except the great hall above, the ceiling of which was beau- tjl^l ; the variety of colours forms a chamiing sr ue, the sight of which highly gratifies the beholder. ^ ; After leaving Fredericksburg we arrived at Klsineur, where we slept. This is at the strait of the Sound, wher^ the vessels pay toll to the king of Denmark. Swedish vessels pay no toll, on account of which the greater number of ships which pass here take Swedish cdours, which are blue with a yellow cross. The passage is guarded h • strong fortress ; but I do not believe that it would be very difficult to pass without payin^^ any thing. * We sl^pt at the house of the agent of the king of France, who is an Irish- mati. We crossed next day to Elsimburg with an unfavourable wind. This to'vn de- fended itself in the late wars for a considerable time against the Danes. During the siege six thousand men were destroyed in eight days : they took it at last ; but they gave it back, with all the oilier places which they had taken, to the crown of Sweden. Qn our passage we saw Riga, Engelholm, Holm, and Halmstadt, a fortified town, iaid famous for. the last battle -which the king of Sweden fought there. This was the VOL. I. : II ' • ;i -it 11 fit I't'i;. :ii if' U6 regnahd's journey to LAPLAND, &r. i \ first engagement in which he was enfr^ed, and the first victory he gained : he was ac- companied by M. de Fcuquieres, a .c^'^itcnant-gcncral in the king's service, and his ambassador in Sweden. It was in this battle that the young ki:*.^, sufiering himself to be hurried en by his courage, and believing himself followed by his req^imcnt ofdrabans, who are his guitfds, and with whom he conceived himself invmcible, a- vanced alone to the middle ct the enemy's army, seeking everywhere the king of Denmark, and calling for him wi^h a loud voice ; but not finding hin», he put himself at 'he head of one of the enemy's regiments, which he found without a leader, giving orders in German, like all the northern nations, and conducted it into the middle of his army, where it was cut in pieces. From Halmstad we travelled to Jenycoj)in, whose situation on the borders of the Weser, a lake eight leagues in length, is delightful. We afterwards passed through Grenna, Norcopin, Lincopin, Nycopin, Vellit, and we arrived at Stockholm on Monday, at eleven o'clock at night, after having travelled six days and six nights among rocks and forests of pine and fir, which form the finest prospects in the world. We travelled this journey in a carriage which we purchased for four cro^vns at Drase, and we ob- served the peasants' houses, which are constructed in the Moscovite manner, with trees interlaced. The people have something savage in their appearance ; the air and the situation of their countiy inspire them with this disposition. The Swedish mile contains 66(X) toises, and that of France 2600. Stockholm is a city which the peculiarity of its situation renders delightful : it is situated almost in the middle of the Baltic Sea, at the mouth of the Bothnian Gulf. The approach is exceedingly dangerous, in consequence of the number of rocks which surround it ; but from the moment that the vessels once arrive within the port, they are more safe tlian in any odier in the world ; they remmn there without any anchor, and approach even to the walls of the houses. Stockholm has more trade than any other port in the Baltic Sea ; and as this sea is only navigable during six mouths in the year, nothing has a grander appearance than this (X)rt, which is crowded with vessels from the month of April to that of October. We had no sooner arrived at Stockholm than we waited on M. de Feuquieres, lieute- nant general in the king's service, who has lieen ambassador here for ten years : he received us with all possible respect, and conducted us next ds^y to kiss the king's hand. This prince, twenty-five years of age, is son of Charles, prince Palatine, to whom Chris- tina, daughter of Adolphus, last king of the house of Vasa, r..;,igned the Swedish crown, when she wished to retire from the throne and change her religion. The king's taste is wholly martial : the warlike exercises and those of the chace are natural to him, and he takes no greater pleasure than in the pursuit of these occupations. We had the honour of conversing with him almost a whole hour, and the pleasure of con- ' .mplating him at our ease : he is wll proportioned, his gait i» majestic, and every thing about him bespeaks the king : he married, alDout a year »r^, , daughter of Fre* deric the Third, and sister of the present king of Denmark. These two royal jx^rsonages have always had an extraordinary similarity and sympathy, which it is not difficult to perceive : Nature had formed them in every respect for each other. The prince never met with any one who coul'' '^ive him information respecting the princess, without asking questions of a particular nature, clearly showing tliat there was more love than curiosity in his disposition ; and the princess was always so anxious about the prince, that it was remarked she was less anxious about intelligence of the prince, than about the prince hinrself. During our stay at Stockholm great rejoicings were made for the birth of a princess : i URON'AUD'M JOUIIM'.Y TO LAl'I.AND, 8tc. 147 we were present at the ceremony of her baptism. There was on the occasion an open table, and the prince, to display his satisfaction, undertook to intoxicate all the court; and, in a more merry manner than ordinary, nuide himself so. He even incited them by exclaiming, " A gentleman has no courage if he do not follow his king." He spoke the little French which he is possessed of to every body ; and I observed tliat he wan the only one at court who spoke it so imperfectly. All the Swedish gentlemen have a particular pride in speaking our language perfectly. Count Stem bock, grand marshal of die kingdom, the Ristrosse or viceroy ; count de la Gardie, the grand treasurer ; Steintc Bielke, the count Cunismar, all speak French as elegantly as if they were Frenchmen themselves. The English envoy perfonned wonders at this feast, that i.«» to say, he was first dnmk. The envoy of Denmark, who had held the princess in the name of the king his master, immediately followed him, almost without reHeetion. After him the whole company followed in the same state. The ladies were also of the party. The two handsome dL"!;,hters of the Ristrosse held the two ends of the pall which covered the infant ; they distinguished themselves among all the other ladies by their beauty and politeness of manners. We went some days alter to visit count de la Gardie at Carsbery : his palace is regular, and being surrounded vith rocks, and situ- ated on the borders of the lake, is one of the handsomest in Swe« len. I'he proprietor of this mansion, who is certainly one of the greatest lords in the kingdom, has been four months ago very ill treated by a reduction, as well as a great number of others : he has lost more than eighty thousand crowns by this re- union of property to the royal ' domain. The buildings of Stockholm are grand. The house of the nobles, the palace of the Ristrosse, that of the grand treasurerf and a great number of others, arc worthy of observation. I should have spoken of the Louvre before all the other buildings ; but although it is no doubt the first in the city, in consequence of the personage who inha- . bits it, we may safely say that it is only on this account, and in consequence of the number of its apartments, that it deserves to be taken notice of: there are some halls which are magnificently enough furnished, but they are not calculated to make a palace : and it is impossible to determine what are their shapes. We saw, during our residence here, the execution of two servants, who had been pre- sent at the assassination of a gentleman, which their masters had committed : they were not the most guilty, but they were the most unfortunate. We admired the intrepidity and fortitude of these men on their way to the scaifold ; they did not seem at all affected, and spoke carelessly to all the persons whom they met : one of them was married ; his wife supported him on one side, and a clergyman on the other. At Stockuo'uTi we knew M. de Feuquieres, the ambassador ; M. de la Piquetiere, a learned and very intelligent man ; M. le Vasseur, secretjry to the embassy, and son of an advocate in the rue Quincampoix ; M. de la Chenets, and father Archange, carme- • lite and chaplain of M- . We also saw M. Bart, a corsair, who remained at Stock- holm for the purpose of recovering payment for some prizes which he had taken from the Danes and Lubeckers, and sold to the king, and which had been declared lawful. At the hotel kept by Verschal, a Norman, we knew M. M. de Saint Leu, laNeuville, Grandmaison, master of the liorse to the count Charles Oxstiern, CoifFard, suigcon, and . The mine called Coperberytis the most curious in Sweden, and is the source of the whole wealth of the country : although there are several other mines, this has been always held in the highest estimation : no tradition tells the date of its being opened : it is four days' journey distant from Stockholm. One descries this mine long before one s, t. ■■ ]! • ;' Mr <> •:' ! «J P I *' 148 RROVARD'S JOURNKY TO LAPLAND, k*. arrives at it, by the smulvc which issues from all quarters, and which makes it Appear to be raihcr the shop oi" Vulcan than the residence of men. We bcliold on all sides nothing but furnaces, files, charcoal, sulphur, and cyclops, who tend to complete this infernal picture. But let us descend this abyss, the !-A;tt"r to conceive its horrible na- ture. We were first conducted into a chamf er where we changed our dress, and were "ach fi'.njished with a stick shcxl with iron, for the purpose of supporting us in the most dangerous places. From hence we entered the mouth of the mine, which is dreadfully long and deep : we were unable to see the people working at the bottom, some of whom were raising stones, while others were throwing earth ; some were blowing rocks, by fires prepared for the purjwse ; and, in fine, every one had his employment We descended this pit by a number of steps which lead to it ; and we now began to be sen- sible that we had as yet done nothing, and that our fatigue was only the beginning of severer toils. In fact, our guides now lighted their flambeaux of fir, which scarcely pierced the thick darkness of these subterraneous regions, and which only furnished us with light sufficient to distinguish the frightful objects which presented themselves to our view : the smell of the sulphur stifled us : the smoke blinded, and the heat broiled us : and if to these objects we join the noise of the hammers, which resound throughout these caverns, the sight of those spectres, naked as the hand, and black as devils, it must be confessed that nothing can give us a clearer idea of hell than this living picture, painted in ti.e gloomiest and blackest colours which can possibly be ima^ned. We descended more than two leagues in the earth, by frightful roads, sometimes upon trembling scales, sometimes on light planks, and always in continual apprehension. We perceived in our descent a number of pumps, and curious machines for raising the water ; but we were unable to examine them, on account of the extreme fatigue which we had already experienced ; we only perceived a number of unfortunate wretches who wrought the pumps. We went with considerable difticulty to the very bottom ; but when it became necessary for us to re-ascend, superasque evadere ad auras, it was with inconceivable difficulty that we regained our former height, where we were obliged to throw ourselves uix)n the ground in order to recover our breath, which the sulphur had deprived us of. We at length arrived at the mouth of the mine, by the assbtance of some persons who supported us under the arms. Here we began to breathe with as much joy as a soul escaped from purgatory : and we were beginning to re-acquire our lost vigour, when an affecting sight presented itself to our view : they were bringing up from the mine an unfortunate creature, who had just been crushed by a stone which had fallen on him. These accidents happen daily ; and the smallest stones falling from such a dreadful height produce the same effect with the largest. There are always seven or eight hundred men who work in this abyss, who ^in sixteen sous a day ; and theit is almost an equal number of overseers, with an axe in their hands, as a marie of authority. I know not whether one ought more to pity the lot of these wretches, or the blindness of men, who, for the purpose of indulging their luxury and gratifying their avarice, tear " the bowels of the earth, confound the elements, and subvert the laws of nature. Boece was perfectly right, when, complaining of the manners of his age, he exclaimed, " Heu 1 primus quis fuit ille Auri qui pondera tecti Gemmasque latere volentes^ Pretiose pericula fodit f" •*■- ■i^ 'yr>iii- What indeed can be more inhuman, than to expose so many individuals to such immi. nent danger ? Pliny informs us chat the Romans, who had more need of men than gold, f i' ■ 1 UbtiNA Kit's .fOinNFV IM I \I'I,\N1), kc. 149 would not suffer the mines which had hicn ilibf.ovLTtd in Italy to be opmtd, i'or the purpose of preserving the lives of the people ; aiul tlu y thuiiglu tliat those wretches who had forleited tlicir lives could not be more cruelly puniiud than iu suffering them to live, for the purpose of constantly employing them t(j (liij^ their on u graves. In this mine arc found native sulphur, blue and green vitriol, and ottnedroiis, which arc stones naturally cut in u pyramidal form on all sides. From Copcrberyt we came to a silver mine at Sallxryt, a I'ttlc village two days' jour- ney distant from Stockholm, and one of the most delightfully situated places in that country. VVe travelled next day to the mine, which is aboi.t a quarter of a mile dis- tant from the village. This mine has three large mouths, at which it is impossible to see the bottom : the half of a tub, supported by a cable, is employed instead of a stair case, for the purpose of descending this abyss : it rises and falls by means of a very cu- rious machine, which is wrought with water. The extent of one's danger may eiusily be conceived, when one must descend in this manner, having only one foot in this ma- chine, and one's life de|x:nding on the strength or weakness of a rope. A satellite, black as a devil, holdin)^^ in his hand a torch of pitch and rosin, descended with us, and screamed out an air so melancholy, that it seemed to have been made on purpose for this infernal descent. When we were alx>ut the middle, we felt great cold, which, joined to the water which fell on us in torrents from all (juarters, roused us from the lethargy into which we had fallen in descending to these subterraneous regions. We at lengtli arrived at the bottom of this gulf, after half an hour's journey ; there our fears began to disappear ; we no more belield any thing frightful : on the contrary, every thing was brilliant in these nether regions. We descended still farther below ground, upon extremely high scales, for the purpose of visiting a saloon which is in the bosom of this cavern, and which is supported by a number of columns of silver, with which every thing is covered. Four spacious galleries disclose themselves, and the reflection of the lights, which shone on all sides, and dazzled on the vaults of silver, and a clear rivulet vvhi'^h ran at their foot, did not tend so much to give light to the workmen, as to render this abode more magnificent than the palace of Pluto, which the ancients placed in the centre of the earth, where the god of wealth has establish d all his treasures. Men of all countries are to be seen in these galleries, seeking with care that object, which confers 80 much pleasure on mankind. Some draw carriages, others roll stones, and others are tearing the rocks asunder. It is a town helovv a town, and contains houses, taverns, stables and horses ; and what is very remarkable, there is a mill in the bottom of this gulf, which raises the water out of the mine. One remounts by means of the same machine, for the purpose of viewing the different operations by which silver is made. The first stones taken out of the mine are called stuff, which are dried in a furnace, which burns slowly, and which separates the antimony, arsenic, and sulphur, from the stone, the lead, and the silver, which remain together. This first operation is followed by another, in which the dried stones are thrown into troughs, and piled upon each other, for the purpose of being reduced to dust, by means of large hammers wrought by water : this matter is kept in water, which runs constantly upon a large cloth, placed in a sloping position, and by which all the thick and earthy matter is earned off, while the lead and the silver remain at the bottom : it is afterwards removed from hence, and thrown a third time into furnaces, which separate the silver Irom the lead, which is con- verted into scum. The Spaniards of Potosi do not now employ so many different methods for the pur- pose of purifying silver, and rendering it malleable, since they found out the method of mixing it with quicksilver^ which is the determined enemy of all the other metals, 11 Ai- • 150 RKCNAUD'S .lOI'llXKV TO LAl'LWD, ke. i ^ Avhich it destroys, except p;()l(l and sil-er, from which it sepiiratcs all other bodies, Ibr the pur|X)se of uniting itself to them. Mercury is found in this mine ; and this nKtuI, althou^h some nfuse it such a name, Uc.ui.se It is not malleahic, is perhaps one of the most curious productions in nature ; for \x'w^ li(|uid, and tiowine of itself, it is the heaviest of all bodies, and changes into the iijjflitest, by resolvin|ff itself mto vapour, which, meetiufjr uith a hard bod}', or a cold nf^ion, imnvdiately thickens, and resumes its an- cient form, without any possibility of ever beiuf^ destroyed. The piison whoeonductid us to the mine, ami who was overseer of it, showed us a great number of curious stones which h • had collected from all parts : he showed us u lar».ve piece of that cUictile stone, which, so far from being consumed, Ix-comes white in the lire, and which the Romans einployed for the purpose of burning the bodies of their dead : he assuied us that he had foui\d it in this very mine, and presented each of us with a sm.ill piece, which, as a particular favour, he cut ott* from it. We departed the same day from diis little city to go to Upsal, where we arrived early next m(.ar approaches, they oush into his thrait their left hand wr^pjKd up in linen, and uith the right stab him in the belly. Another mode is L>s dangerous : the bear is vi ry fond of tlu- honey which liecs make in the trimks of trees; Ik- ascends, drawn by the odour of his prey, to the summits of the highest trees ; the peasimts put cli^tiljeil spirits into the honey, and the bear, fmding die taste uf^rt cable, lakes so much, that the strength of the spirit intoxicates him and makes him la!': the |)easai:t then finds him witliout strength, in a recumlxiiit posture, and easily becomes miisier of him. The elector of Brandenburg is called : he has a son, fifteen years of age, who is denominated Kurt-Prime: he professes ilic Calvinistic religion. Amber is found ui)on his lands in Ducal Prussia; for Ii)yal Prussia lx;longs to the king of Poland. It protluces to him more than twent five thousand crowns u month : he farms out the amber-fishery at from sixty to ei^u y thousimd crowns ; and there is a horse-guanl for the purpose of watching the shore. When die wind is high it is found in greatest abun- dance. Before it comes out of tl ic sea it is soft, and will take the impixssion of a seal. There are several pieces on which flics are found. This fishery extends from Dantzic to Memel. The elk is an animal higher than a horse, and of a whitish colour : it has a branch like the deer, and a foot of the same shape, very long ; its under-lip hangs down, and it has a bunch upon the neck like a camel. It defends itself, against the dogs who pur- sue it, with its fore-feet, with which it strikes Uiem very forciblj'. The son of the elector of Brandenburg married a }'car ago the daughter of prince Bogeslas de Ratzevil, duke of Stuck, and of Kopil de Bitze, and of Dubniki, of the illustrious family of the Ratzevils, descended from the ancient princes of Lithuania, and for more Uian three centuries princes of the empire. He was the son of prince Jannalius, of the black branch, whose evil destiny led him to declare himself chief of that party which oppos^.d the king, but who was soon after taken into I'avour, and of Elisabeth Sophia, daughter of John George, elector of Brandenburg, afterwards married to Julius Henry, duke of Saxe-Lawembourg : he was governor of Ducal Prussia. This young princess was wholly educated at the court of Brandenbuig. The — — p^d his addresses to her, and spent a large sum of money on her account ; but the elector would not sufter more than eight hundred thousand livres of rent to be sent out of the country. The Poles constantly complain of his conduct, as there is a treaty which stipulates that this princess should marry no other than a native of Poland. He who paid his addresses to her lost his reason in consequence of vexation. The father of the grand duke of Moscovy was called Frederic Alexander, and the present duke, Alexander Michael, or Michael Federowitz, Michel son of Peter. The prince of Transylvania is called Apaty, pays eighty thousand crowns of tribute to the Turk, and loves nothing but drinking. Reliqui governs the state, and Telechi is general of the rebels. The capital of Transylvania is Cujuar, or Albcjule. M. Acakias has been resident at the court of this prince for die purpose of treating with the faction of die rebels. Iv'i"*-"* •■)■((•■! 5, >«<'v'■' ; ■H ff 153 HRON.VUD'S JUUHKEY TO LAI LAND. fco. I tcm|K-st, ulucii in one moment drives tlieir veaisiclii af^ainst the cloudii, and in the next precipitates them to hell : such ait: the ikserintions of some. For my part, without any exaggeration, I slialhnention that the BaUic Scu is famous i'ur the number of ship wrecks whicii happen in it ; and that it can seldom be crossed in the autinna without lx:ing exposed to bad weather, for in winter it is not navigable. VVc were oblifjped in our passage to take in sail five or six times; and although it is generally made m three or lour da} s, our passage was still longer. These misfortunes were of some use : and the time during which wc remained at anchor was not the portion of my life which has been the most uselessly b[n:\\t, I went every day to the perpendicular rocks, on which I remained some hours, where the abruptness of the precipices and the view of the sea accorded extremely well with my reveries. It was during these solitary meditations tluit I entered wholly into myself, and investigated the ip:nost sentiments of my heart, to place truth in full view, without disguise, such as it really existed. I cast a look back u\K)n tlK events of my past lii'e, reflected upon my designs which had never been executed, my resolutions broken, and my unsuccessful enterprises : I considered my present nuxle of life, my wandering voy. ages, my changes of abode, the diversity of objects, and the constant motion to which I was exposed : I felt myself wholly in that state, where inconstancy is the prevalent inclination ; and I came to this conclusion, without being in the smallest degree misled by the suggestions of self-love: I judged impartially ol every thing: I reflected that all this concfuct was in direct opposition to the real enjoy :nt of life, which consists solely in repose ; and that this desirable trannuility of soul .s to be experienced in Uic pursuit of an agreeable profession, which retains us in a steady position, like a ship held l}y an anchor in the midst of a tempest. All the vague designs, investigations of the future, chimeras, expectations of fortune, are only phantoms that mislead us, which wc take pleasure in forming, and widi which our minds entertain themselves. All the ob- stacles which ambition excites, far from stopping us, ought to make us distrustful of ourselves, and more than ever apprehensive. You know, sir, as well as I do, that the choice of a profession is one of the most diffi- cult attempts of a man's conduct ; and on this account there are numbers who never embrace any, remaining in continual indolence, living not as they would have wished, but as they have begun, whether it arise from the lear of vexatious occurrences, the l(ne of idleness, the hatred of toil, or any other causes. There are other men who are not retarded in their career by obstacles, and who, giving themselves up to that inconstancy which is natural to tliem, cannot enjoy repose, even when unemployed : they are continually agitated with new ideas and designs : they change, solely from a desire of change and a natural inconstancy ; and that which they have left pleases them always more than that which t^ey enjoy. The whole life of these men is a continual agitation ; and if ihey are sometimes observed to be at rest in their old age, it is not the hatred of change which influences Uicm, but the lassitude of age, rendering them less capable of motion, and preventing them from undfrtaking any enter- prise ; like those restless individuals who are unable to sleep, but who, li om fretjuently tfjssing, find at length that repose which weariness procures ther.'« I know not ^y'lich of these situations are the most unhappy, but I am convinced that I hey are both extremely disagreeable : hence arise those tempests of the soul, and bois- terous passions, which make one wiJi that one neither could nor dared to undertake ;iny thing, when one fears every thing, ho})es every Uiing, and is desirous to seek some where else that happiness to Avhich one is a stranger : hence also arise those discontents, that displeasure with ourselves, that im[)atiencc at our idleness, those complaints which '!•■ I' nrnv Ann's jot-nvr-.Y to lvpi-and, to. i5.] *ve make at having nothing to do ; every thinp; vexes lis, compimy is iron I )lc some, soli, tude friphtful, light is disagneablc, darkness distressing, exercise futigncs, repose pro duces sleep, the whole world is (xlious to us, and we iKConie at length insupportable to outselveH. There is nodiing whieh men of this description do not desin* ; and the high opinion which they entertain of thems* ivrs leads them to attempt every thing : amhilion makes them supixwe all things possible ; but tluy want courage, and irreholution stops them. The success of others, which is always in their view, serves at one time to fo- ment their vague designs, and to excite their ambition ; and at other times it exposes them to the gnawings of jealousy : they |X'rceivc with impatience the success of others ; they wish their debasement, Ixrause they cannot rise to the same level ; and tlie destruc tion of their fortune, Ixxausc they despitir of being able to accjuire one e(|ually good. These men constantly cry up the cruelty of their fate, and cf)inplain of the inscnsibilit) of the age, and the depravation of human nature : they undertake distant journies, tear themselves from their country, and seek climates warmed l)y another sun • at onr time, they exjxjsc themselves to the tempestuous ocean ; at another time, disgusted either with its calms or its storms, they return once more to land : to-day, the voluptuousness of Italy enchants them ; but no sooner do they arrive in that country, than they sigh again for France, with all its delights. •* Let us leave the citj ," exclaims a man of this description, " where virtue is oppressed, « heir vice and luxury reign, and of which I am unable to suffer the noise." Immediately after he says, " I "t us go back to the city ; I languish in solitude ; man was not made to live with bei.ats ; and it is a long time since 1 heard the pleasing bustle which the confusion of a city excites." A jour- ney is no sooner finished, than he undertakes another. In this manner, though always flying from himself, he cannot avoid himself: he carries his inconstancy always about wiUi him ; luid the source of his uneasiness is in himself, without lx:ing conscious of it. JOURNEY TO LAPI.AND. Travelling has its toils as well as its jilcasures ; but the fatigue which we exiKii- cnce, far from disgusting us, generally increases our desire of tmvelling. This passion, irritated by obstacles, engages us insensibly to go farther than we intended ; and whon we sometimes set out for the puqx)se of visiting Holland, we find ourselves, we know not how, at the end of the world. This circumstance, sir, has actually happened to me. I understood at Amsterdam that the court of Denmark was at Oldenburg, which is only three days' journey distant from tlut place ; and if I had not gone thither to see it, I should either have displayed very little curiosity, or considerable contempt for that court I therefore sat out for Oldenburg ; but fortune, who wished to take me still farther, so ordained, that the king had departed two days before my arrival. I was told that I should find him at Altona, whici is only at the distance of a musket-shot from Hamburg. I believed myself bound in honour to follow my design, and to travel two or three days* journey farther, in order to enjoy the sight which I wished. Besides, Hamburg is a Hanseatic town, famous for its commerce with the whole world, and re- spectable on account of its fortifications and its government. I should have found at Altona the Danish court ; but I only found a part of what I wished to see : I only saw the queen-mother and prince George, her son, who wea- going to the waters of Pyr- mont. I visited Hamburg, which pleased me highly ; and after having gone so fur to see the king, I thought that I was bound to visit him in his capital city, where I was sure to find him. I sat out for Copenhagen : the ambassador presented me to the king, ▼ OL. I. X I .1' 1 • n ill (1 154 nr.ovAnui .101 iixrv ro i.aim.wd, »u. and I Imd the linnniir to Wisn \m liaiid, and lo convcrHc with him some tiiiio. My rcM (Uncr in C()|x nha^i 11 was cxtamcly u^^rirahlc ; and I loniid the ladies in it m) witt) and MO haiidsoir.i-, tliat 1 Hhowld Hcurccly have been able to leave them, if I had not lieeii ftSMired that thoMe of Suiden were efjually a}(reeal)le. The anxious desire which I had of nceinj^the kinjif of Sweden aKo induced nie to visit Stoikholm. We had the honour of »aUitin(^ die kiii)^, and of conversing with him for a whole hour. As he knew wc Mere travelling from motive:* of curiositv, he informed us that Lapland deserved to [)e Ncen by the curious, both on accoimt of^its situation and its inhabitants, whose mule of iivinf^ IS (juite difl'crent from that of all Kurope : and he !a;ave orders to count Steinbielk, urancl treasurer, to ^ive us every necessary recommendation, if we wisheil to undertake tlie journey. And pray, sir, who could resist the advice of a kinjj;, and a j.i;real kiiiff too, like that of Sweden? Mi^ht not one, with his advice, undertake any tiling; ? And could wc be unsuccessful in an attempt which he himself had recommended, and to which he wished success ? 'I'he advices of kings arc commands ; and it was on this ac count, that, after putting]; all our alVaini in order, we set sail for Tot no on Wednesday, die twenty.thir(' d.iy of July, 1681, at midday, after havin^r naid our resjKcts to M. Steinbielk, ^and treasua-r, who, olx;ying the orders whicn lie had received from the king, his master, gave his recommendiitions to the governors of the provinces through ^^ hich wc were to travel. Wq were carried by a south-west wind as far as Vacsol, where the ships arc visited. On our passage thiUier, wc were struck with the ridiculous position of Stockholm. It is almost incredible that a situation, such as that of this city, should have been chosen Ibr the purpose of containing the capital of such an extensive kingdom as that of Sweden. It is said that the founders of this city, seeking a spot on which to build it, threw a stick into the sea, with the detennination to build the city wherever the r.tick stopped : Uic stick consequently stopiied in the place where the city now stands, which has nothing frightful about it but its situation ; for the buildings arc handsome, and the inhabitants polite. We saw the island of Aland, forty miles distant from Stockholm : it is very fertile, and becomes the retreat of the elks, who go diither from Livonia and Carelia, when the winter allows them to pass over on the ice. This animal, though in some respects like the deer, suqiasses it in swiftness and strength, which it employs against the wolves, with whom it frequently engiigcs. The skin of this animal belongs to the king ; and the peasants arc obliged, under pain of death, to carry it to the governor. After leaving this island we lost sight of land, and did not again descry it till Friday morning, in the neighlDOurhood of Hernen, or Hernesantc, which is a hundred miles distant from Stockholm, ecpial to three hundred French leagues ; and the wind conti- nuing extremely strong, we soon descried the islands of Ulfen, Schagen, and Goben ; ~ ' wc loi ' ' so that on Saturday wc Ibund that we had left Angcrmania, and were now as far as from Stockholm about one hundred and fifty miles, which amount to about four hun- dred and fifty French leagues. We saw the islands of Quercken c .1 Saturday, and the wind continuing always south- west, enabled us to perceive at mid-day the litde island of Ratan ; and at four o'clock of the evening we found ourselves as fiu* as Cape Burockluben. After passing this little cape we lost sight of land, and on Sunday morning, the wind having continued southerly during the whol^ iiight, we found ourselves as far as Mai- J. Br.CN.vnn'fl jornvrv to lvplwo, Ik;. Ii5 hum, n lift! • isluiul c'i\i;\\t milts from Tomo. Some fislicrmcn Ixlon^inii; to it came ofl to IIS ill u little hark, the thiniR-st 1 have ever Hcen, the iMmrtN of w hirli were sewed to^etlier in the RuHsiutt manner. They brought us some .T/ri, and we garc them ill exehunge hii.'uiit and .snirit.s, with which they nturned ci.rrpletely satisfied. T\v: wind cuuriiming still extremely favourable, wc jirrivedwitl.Mi ti Icuguc of Torrio. whenr we east anchor. It is almost iiieredible that wc could hav imvelled so f;ir in four days. I'he distnncr from Stockholm to Torno is computed to Ik* two hundred Swedish miles by water, which arc ecjual to six hundred French leagues; and we made this voyage with ii south aiKl south-south-west wind, so favourable and so strong, that having left Stockholm on W'ednesilay, at mid-day, we arrived here at the same lunir on the Sund.ty lullou ing, without having Ixen obliged to shill our sails (iuring the whole v(»yagc. Torno is situated at the extremity of the (julf of Bothnia, in 42" 27' of longitude, and in 67" of latitude. This is the last town in the world towards the north ; the rest, as far as the cape, being only inhabited by Laplanders, savages, who have no fixed resi- dence. Here the northern nations hold their fairs in winter, when the sea is snftleiently frozen to allow them to travel in sledges. At this tin\e all the people of the north, Kussians,, Moscovites, Finlanders, and Laplanders from all the tliree kingdoms, come hither on snow and ice, which is so convenient, that l)y means of sledges one can travel in one day from Finland to Lapland, and cross the Bothnian Ciulf on ice, although it is in the narrowest places thirty or forty Swedish miles in breadth. The trade of this town consists in fish, which are sent to u great distance ; and the river Torno abounds S') much in pike and salmon, that it could furnish a sullicient quantity to supply all tlu inhabitiuus of the Baltic Sea: they salt some for exportation, and smoke others in shallow veiisels, which are constructed like baths. Although this to\vn is, strictly s\kA - ing, nodiing but a confused mass of wooden huts, it pays annually two thousand pieces of brass, which amount to alx)uta thousand livres of our money. We lodged with the agent for the hark which conveyed us from Stockholm ; his wife was not at home ; she had gone to attend a fair to the distance of ten or tw el\ r leagues, for the puqx)se of bartering s.ilt and meal for the skins of rein-deer, minevers, and other animals: for the whole trade of this country is generally carried on in barter, and the Russians and Laplanders scarcely ever do business in any other manner. We went next day, Monday, to see Johannes Tornajus, a learned man, who had translated into the Lapland language the Psalms of David, and had written an history ol the country : he was a countrj' priest, and had died three days before : we found hin\ stretched out in his coffin, with the drcss of his profession, which had been made on purpose for him. He was much regretted here, and had travelled through a consider- able part of Europe. His wife was in another part of the room, lying on her bed : she testified the regret which she felt at losing such a husbaud; and a number of other women, her friends, surrounded the bed, and reechoed by their groans to the grief of the widow. But that which consoled them a little, in such great affliction and general siidness, was a great number of large pots of silver, made in the antitjue manner, and filled, some with French, some with Spanish wines, and some with spirituous rujuors, which they took good care never to leave long empty. We tasted of them all ; and the wdow often inten'ipted her lamentations to press us to drink : she even ordered tobacco to be brought us, but we declined taking any. We were afterwards conducted to the churcli of wmch the deceased was pastor, where we saw nothing worthy of observation ; and ' I, ' .1 I 156 RERNASD'S JOURWEY TO LAfLAND. ke. when taking kave of the widow, we were again obliged to drink to the memory of the dead, and to do that which is called libare manibus. We afterwards went to the dwelling of a person who was in our company ; his mother itcclvcd us with all possible kindness ; and these people, who had never before seen Frenchmen, did not know how to testify the joy which they felt at seeing us in their country. On Tuesday they brought us a quantity of furs, to sell ; and of large coverings furred with skins of white h{»''es, which they offered to dispose of for a crov/n. They also shewed us dresses oi the Lapponians, made of the skms of young rein-deer, with their whole appurtenances, boots, gloves, slippers, sash, and bonnet. We went, the same day, to the chace, around the house ; we found numbers of wild woodcocks, and other animals unknown in our country ; and we were astonished, that the inhabitants whom we met with were no less anxious to avoid us than the game. On Wednesday we received a visit from the magistrate and burgo-master, who offer- ed us their services in every thing which was in their power. After dinner they came to conduct us to their barkb, and brought us to the priest of the town, who is son-in- law of the deceased Tomaeus. We now saw, for the first time, a Lapland sledge, and admired its structure. This machine, which they call Pulea, is made like a small ship-boat, raised in front, for the purpose of more easily keeping off the snow. The prow consists s' ^ely of a single plaiik, and the hody is composed of several pieces of wood, sewed togetaer with a large thread of :< rein-deer, without a single nail ; this wood is joined to another piece in front, which is very strong, and which extends over the whole length above, and, by going beyond the rest of the structure, serves the same purpose with the keel of a ship. It is upon th!" piece of wood that the sledge runs ; and as it is only about four fingers breadth wide, it rolls constantly from side to side ; the traveller places himself in the inside, as in a coffin, where the half of his body is covered ; there he is tied, and rendered immoveable, witn the exception of his hands, one of which is employed in hold; ,g the reins, and the other supports him, when in danger of falling. He is obliged carefully to balance himself; on which account, those who are unaccustomed to this mode of travelli»»; n.i-e often in danger of thei? lives, and chiefly when the sledge descends the steepest rocks, over which it flies with such horrible swiftness, that it is impossible to conceive the rapidity of the motion, without having experienced it. We supped ihis evening in public with the burgo-master ; and the whole inhabitants came in crowdi to see us cat. We postponed our departure till the next day, and we took an interpreier. On Thursday, the last of July, we 1< 'i Torno in a littie Finland boat, made for the purpose of performing voyages here ; it is about twelve feet long, and three broad. It is impossible to see any thing better or more lightly built than this boat ; and to such a degree is this carried, that two or three men can easily bear it, when they are obliged to pass the cataracts of the river, which are so impeti^ous, as to roll down stomal of an immense si::.e. We were obliged to walk on foot almost all the rest of the day, on account of the torrents which fell from the mountains, and of a boisterous wind, which forced the water into the boat in such quantides, that if it had not been immediately bailed out, the boat would soon have been filled. We went along the banks of the river, constantly hunting, and killed some game ; we were astonished at the number of ducks, geese, and water-fowl, and several other birds, which we met with at every step. We did not to-day go so fur as we had intended, iu ccmsequence of a violent rain which took place, and obliged us to pass the night at a peasant's house, at the distance of a league and a half from Torno. REGXARD'S JOURNBY TO LAPLAND. &C. 157 in We travelled the whole of Friday without stopping, and were from four o'clock of the morning till night in going three miles ; if, indeed, it may be called night, where the sun is always in sight, and where no distinction can be made betwixt to-day and to- morrow. We went more than half of the way on foot, in consequence of the dreadful tor- rents which it was necessiiry to pass. We were even obliged to carry our boat in some places ; and we had the pleasure of seeing; at the same time, two litUe boiits descendinr m the midst of the caUtracts. The swiftest and the lightest bird could not fly with such impetuosity ; the sight cannot even follow the course of these boats, which hide themhielves from view, and at one time dive into the waves, where they seem buried, and at another time rise to an astonishing height. During this rapid course, the pilot is standing, and employs all his skill to avoid stones of an extraordinary si^^c, and to pass through the middle of rocks, in a space no larger than the breadth of the boats, which would be driven into a thousand pieces, if they touched them in the slightest degiee. We killed to-day, in the wood, two young pheasants, three ducks, and two teal, without going out of our way, during which we were very much incommoded by gnats, which are the curse of this country, and which nearly drove us to despair. The Laplanders have no other method of defending themselves against these cursed creatures, than by filling the places of their residence with smoke ; and we observed, on the road, that to preserve their cattle from these troublesome iusects diey light a large fire, in the place where their cows (which are all wholly white) graze, amidst the smoke of which they place themselves, and thus chase away the gnats, which are un- able to remain. We pursued the same method, and smoked ourselves, as soon as we arrived at the house of a German, who has resided thirty years in the country, and receives the tri- bute of the Laplanders for the king of Sweden. He told us, that this people were obliged to be in a certain place, appointed for them in the preceding year, to bring the necessary tribute ; and that they generally preferred the winter season, on account of the convenience which it afforded them in travelling, by means of their rein-deer, upon the ice. The sum which they pay is very small ; and it is the policy of the king of Sweden, as he is desirous that they should remain his tributaries, not to impose on them vexatii.us burdens, lest this people, destitute of any fixed residence, and to whom the whole of Lapland is a dwelling place, should remove to the territories of other princes, on account of the troublesome exactions to which they were subjected. Some of these people, however, pay tribute to different countries ; and some- times a Laplander will be tributary to the king of Sweden, that of Denmaiic, and the grand duke of Moscovy ; they will pay to the first, on account of residing within his territories; to the second, for permission to fish on tlic coast of Norway, which be- longs to him ; and to the third, that they may be allowed to hunt upon his lands. Nothing worthy of observation befel us during our journey on Saturday ; but we had no sooner arrived at the residence of a peasant, than we were astonished with find- ing every body bathing. Their baths arc made of wood, like all their houses. One observes in the middle of this bath a great mass of stones, thrown together without order, except that they Ifeave a hole in the middle, in which the fire is lighted. These stones, being once heated, communicate warmth to the whole place ; but this heat augments to a great degree, when they proceed to throw water upon the flint stones, which, emitting a stifling smoke, cause the air which is breathttl in these places to be w^m as fire. But what surprised us most in entering this bath was, finding boys and 158 nEr.NARD'S JOUnNEY TO LAPLANS «ic. girls, motlicrs and sons, brethren and sisters, all promiscuously together, and observing mat the naked females remained (juite unconcerned at being exposed to the view of strangers. But we were still more surprised, at beholding young girls with a switch striking the naked men and boys. I at first supposed that nature, being exhausted by great sweat, required this assistance, for the purpose of showing that there still remained some signs of life in the bather ; but I was soon undeceived, and learnt that this practice was followed, in order that the frequent strokes should open the pores, and assist in producing great fierspiration. I :ifterwards with difficulty conceived how these people, issuing naked from their fiery baths, could run and throw themselves into an extremely cold river, which was within a few paces of the house ; and I supposed that they must have very strong constitutions, before they could remain unaffected with those consequences, which such a sudden transition from heat to cold was naturally calculated to produce. You would never have believed, sir, that tne Bothnians, an extremely savage people, should have imitated the Romans in their luxury and their pleasures. But you will be still more astonished, when I inform you, that these same people who have baths among them, like emperors, have no bread to eat. They live upon a little milk, and nourish themselves with the tenderest of the bark, which thev find on the tops of the pines. Thev gather it when the tree gives out its sap, and afte ' exposing it some time to the sun, tney bury it in large baskets unCcr ground, over which they kindle a fiie, which gives it a very agreeable colour and flavour. Such, sir, throughout the whole year, is the food of men, w ho eagerly indulge themselves in the luxury of a bath, and who can live without bread. We were extremely fortunate at the chace on Sunday, and brought home a con- siderable quantity of game ; but we saw nothing worthy of remark, except two long wooden planks of fir, with which the Laplanders run with such remarkable swiftness, that no animal, even the fleetest, can escape tliem, when the snow is hard enough to support them. These planks, extremely thick, are two ells long, and half a foot broad ; they are made ix)inted before, and arc pierced through at tlie thickest part, for the purpose of passing a leathern strap, m hich keeps the feet firm and immoveable. I'he Laplander who stands upon it holds a stick in his hand, to one end of which a round piece of wood is attached, tc prevent it from entering into the snow, and the other end is pointed with a piece of iron. This stick is employed to give him the first motion, to keep him up while running, and to stop him when he chooses ; with this he also pierces tlie beast he is in pursuit of, when he approaches near enough for that purpose. It is difficult enough to conceive the fleetness of these hunters, who can, by the aid of these instruments, outrun the swiftest animals ; but it is impossible to liave an ade- quate idea of their method of descending the steepest precipices, and how they can mount the most craggy mountains. All this, however, they perform, sir, with an address which surpasses imagination, and which is so natural to the people of this country, that the women are no less adroit in the use of these planks than the men. They go to visit their relations, and travel in this manner the longest and most difficult joumies. We met with nothing remarkable on Monday, except the quantity of game which we saw and killed ; we made use of no less than twenty pieces this day ; it is true, we had purchased five or six ducks from some peasants who had taken them. These people use no other arms in hunting than the bow or the cross-bow. They employ the bow in hunting the larger beasts, as the boar, the wolf, and the wild rein-deer ; X HEONAnn'S JOUUKEY TO I.API.AKn, ic 159 and when they wish to take the less cojisiderablc animals, they make use of the cross-bow, which differs from ours only in its superior size. So skilful arc those people m the use of these arms, that th., never fail in striking the object at the greatest distance at wuich they can behold it. The smallest bird cannot escape them ; there are even some who will strike a pin on the head. The arrows which they use are of various kinds; some are pointed with iron, or the bone of a fish; and others are round, shaped like a ball cut through the middle. They make use of the first kind with the bow, when they go to the greater hunts ; and of the latter xyith the cross-bow, when they attack animals which can 1)C destroyed without giving them any dangerous wounds. Thev employ these round arrows in attacking the minevers, martins, and ermines, that they may preserve the skins whole; and liecause it is dithcult to avoid leaving a mark on the skin, where the stroke has been given, the most ingenious never fail to hit the spot that they wish, and generally strike the head, which is the least valuable part of the skin. „r j j r *u We arrived on Tuesday at Kones, and stopped there on Wednesday, for the purpose of resting ourselves, and of seeing the iron and copper- works, which are at this place. We admired the method which they follow in working these metals, and of preparing the copper before it is made into Pelottes, which form the money of the country, alter it has been stamped with the image of the prince. But that vvhichastomshcd us most of all was, the conduct of one of the founders, who approached the furnace, and took into his hand a quantity of copper, which the violence of the heat had rendered iquid as water, where he continued to hold it some time. Nothing can be more frightful than these abodes. The torrents which fall from the mountains, the rocks and the woods which surround them, the blackness and the savage air of these founders, all contribute to form a horrible residence. These frightful solitudes, however, are sometimes agree- able, and please one, at times, as much as the most magnificent abodes ; and it was in the midst of these rocks that I composed the following verses, a practice to which I had, for some time, been unaccustomed. Tranquilles et sombres forfits, Ou Ic soleil ne luit jamais Qu'au travers de mille feuUlaReB, Que VOU9 avez pour rooi d'atiraits I Et qu'il est doux, sous vos ombragcS, De pouvoir respirer en paix ! Quc j'aime avoir vos chines vei-ds, Presque aussi vieux que Tunivers, Qui, malRre la nature fcmue, Et ses plus cruels aquilons, Sont aussi sOrs pr^s de la nucj Que lea epis dans ies sillons ! Et vous, impfetueux torrents, r* ; ' Qui, sur le roches murmurants, . .1, ' . Roulez vos eaux avec conU'ainte, ,. ,„ Que le bruit que vous excitez Cause de respect at de crainte A toux ceux que vous arretet ! ' ' Quelquefoia vos rapides eaux, - Venant arroser Ies roseaux, ...;. v< A '->» Fomtent des etan(:spacifiques, ';■ ,:Ji..r;.^ Oit Ies phngeons et ies canards, '' Ettous Ies oiseaux aquatiques, Viennent fondre de loutes partis. I :i iii ^ 150 REONAIllVS JOUnXEY TO LAPLAND, &c. D'un c6t^ Ton voit dcs poissons. Qui, suns cruindrc Ics hamc^onS) Quitient Icurs dcmeurcs profondes ; El pour prendre un plaiser noveau, Las (Ic fol^irer dans les ondes, S' ilancent et sauU-nt s'-^lTeau. Tous CCS fidiflces d^truits, £t ces respectables debris, j Qu'on voit sur,cette roche obscure, 1 >> Sonl plus beauique les b&timens 0\[ Tor, I'azur, ct la peinture, Forment les moindres orncmcnts. * Le| temps y laisse quelqucs troua, Pour la demeure des biboux ; £t Iqb betes d'un cri funestCi Lt-b oiseaux sacr^s d la nuit, Dans I'horreur de celte rctruite, Trouvent toujours un sCir reduit. We left these foi^es on Thursday, to go to others wHich are distant from them about eighteen Swedish miles, which are equal to nearly fifty French leagues. We kept al- ways in the same road, there being no other in ;he country, and pursued our journey to the northward, on the banks of the river. We learnt that it had here another name, and that it was called, by the inhabitants, TVilnama Suanda. We passed the whole night upon the water, and we arrived next day, being Friday, at the poor hut of a peasant, which, however, we found to be empty. The whole family, consisung of five or six persons, were gone out ; some were m the woods, and others had gone to fioh the pike. This fish, which they dry, serves them for nourishment during the whole year. They do not take it by means of nets, as others do ; but by lighung a fire on the prow of their litde bark, they draw the fish to the light of this flame, and harpoon them with a long stick, pointed with iron, in the shape of a trident. They catch great numbers of tnis fish, of an extraordinary size ; so that nature, like a bountiful mother, denying them fertility of soil, furnishes them with the abundance of the waters. The farther one advances in this country, the misery is the greater ; the inhabitants are ignorant of the use of corn ; fish-bones, ^ound with the bark of trees, are used instead of bread, and notwithstanding this horrid diet these people live in perfect health. As they are destitute of physicians, it is not surprising that they should be also igno- rant of diseases, and should live to such an advanced age, that they generally survive till they are a hundred years old, and some of them a hundred and f fty. We made little progress on Saturday, as we stopt the whole day in a small house, which is the last that one meets with in this country. We had various amusements while residing in this cabin. The first was to employ ourselves, everj' one at different exercises, as soon as we arrived. One cut a dry tree in the neighbouring wood, and drew it with difficulty to the place of its destination ; another, after having struck a light with a flint, blew with all his strength to lighten a fire ; some were engaged in prepai ing a lamb, which they were going to kill ; and others, possessing more foresight, left these petty employments, and went to procure firom a neighbouring pond, which was full of fish, something for to-morrow. This pleasure was followed by another; for no sooner were we seated at table, than we agreed, on account of our pressing necessities, to order a general hunt. Every body made preparations for tliis purpose ; and having taken two htUe barks and two peasants with us, we abandoned ourselves on the river ta UBCNARU'S JOUKNEY TO LAPLAND, kc. 101 our good fortune. We hunted in the strangest and most delightful manner iniaginji'jic. No one has ever heard tliat people went a hunting with sticks in France ; l)ut .^uch is the practice here, for so abundant is the game, that they make use of rods, and even sticks, to kill them. The birds which we caught in greatest numbers were divers ; and we admired the address with which they were taken. The peasants followed them wherever they went ; and when they perceived them swimming below water, they ti^rew their stick, and struck them in the head at the bottom of the water with such address, that it is difficult to conceive the promptitude with which they performed this action. For our parts, who were not made for this mode of hunting, and whose eyes were not fine enough for piercing to the bottom of the river, we struck at random in the same places wlvere we saw they struck, without any other weapons than sticks ; and so much execution did we make, that in less than two hours we procured more than twenty or twenty-five pieces of game. We returned to our little dwelling, mucii pleased with having seen this hunt, and still more with bringing something along witii us for our support Good fortune, like bad, seldom comes alone ; and some peasants, having heard of our arrival, which had been rumoured over the country to a great dis- tance, partly from curiosity to see us, and partly to receive some of our money, brought us a sheep, which we purchased for five or six sous ; and which increased our stock of provisions to such a degree, that we believed ourselves well enough furnished to un- dertake a journey of three days length, during which time we should be wiable to meet with any other house. We set out early on Sunday morning, that is, at ten o^clock ; for the necessity which we were under of taking rest prevented us from being ever on the road before this hour. We were surprised at meeting with so many swallows in this northern latitude, and having asked the country people who conducted us, what became of them in winter, jUTid whether they migrated to warm regions, they assured us, that they for d platoons, and buried themselves in the slime wmch is at the bottom of the lakes ; and that they await in this place the return of the sun to his former vigour, when he pierces to the bot. torn of these marshes, and gives them again that life, which the cold had deprived them of. I was told the same tmng by the ambassador at Copenhagen, and by several per. sons at Stockholm ; but I could never believe that these animals could live more than nx months buried in the earth, without any sustenance. However, such is the fact ; and the truth of it has been confirmed to me by so many people, that I can no longer have any doubt on the subject. We Ldged Uvday at Coctuanda, where Lapland commences ; and next day, being Monday, we travelled four nules, and encamped on the bank of the river, where we were obiiged to sleep in the open air, and where we made smoking fires, to preserve us fit>m me importunity of the gnats. We made a large round intrenchment, formed of a number of tall dry trees, and of smaller ones for the purpose of lighting them ; we placed ourselves in the middle, and made the best fire that I have ever seen. The wood which we burned would certainly have been sufficient to load one of those large boats which come to Parb with wood ; and a small quandty mwe would have been soficient to> set the whole forest on fire. We remained in the midst of these fires the ynbdc ni^it, and we set out next morning, being Tuesday, for the purpose of visiting the cjpper.mines, which were only two leagues distant. We travelled to^vards the west, on the border of a little river, called Loi^^iochi, which formed here and there the most bMcautiful fiums that I have ever seen: and after having been often obliged to cany our boat, for waitt ^f water, we arrived at Swapavara, or Suppawahara, where vol. I. y 162 KRONAHD'S JOIJHNKY TO t.AI'LANI), «ie. the copper-mines are situated. This place is about a league distant from the river, and we were obliged to travel the whole way on foot. We were extremely glad to hear, upon our arrival, that there was a Frenchman here. You see, sir, that there is no place, however retired, wlv^re Frenchmen are not to be found. He has wrought in these mines nearly thirty years, and he had really more I the appearance of a savage than a man ; but he was of considerable service to us, •'^(i^ although he had almost wholly forgot his mother tongue. He assured us, that since he had first residec' ;re, far from having seen any Frenchmen, no stranger had arrived, who was lx)m nearci France than an Italian, who }xissed by this place fourteen years ago, and of whom he had never afterwards heard. We were much pleased with this man's recovering in some measure his native language, and we learned from him many things, which we could with difficulty have been informed of by any other than a Frenchman. These mines of Swapavara are thirty miles distant from Tomo, and fifteen from Konges (a Swedish mile is always equal to three French leagues.) They were opened about seven-and-twenty years ago by a Laplander, called , to whom a small rent of four crowns and two barrels of meal is paid : he is exempt from every taxt These mines were formerly better wrought than they are now ; formerly they had con- stantly a hundred men vcrhing here, but at present one only sees ten or twelve. The co^ j)er found here is, however, the best in Sweden ; but so deserted and so frightful is the country, that there are very few persons who can remain in it. Nobody but the Laplanders can remain here, and they reside in the neighbourhood of the mines only during the winter, as in summer they are obliged to leave the country, on account of the heat and the gnats, which the Swedes call alcaneras, and which are worse, a thousand times, than all the plagues of Egypt. They retire to the mountains in the neighbourhood of the western sea, for the purpose of fishing more conveniently, and finding more easily nourishment for vtheir rein-deer, who live upon a little white and tender moss, which grows in summer on the Sellicean mountsuns, which separate Nor. way from Lapland, in the most northern regions. We went next day, Wednesday, to view the^mines, which were full half a league distant .rom our cabin. We admired the works, and the excavated abyss, which penetrat- ed even to the centre of the earth, for the purpose of seeking, almost in hell itself, materials for the gratification of luxury and vanity. The greatest number of these pits were full of ice, and some of them were clothed from head to foot with a coat of ice so thick, that even the largest stones which we amused ourselves with throwing at them, far from making any breach, did not leave the smallest mark of the place were they had been struck ; and when they fell to the bottom, we saw them roll and rebound, without making the slightest impression on the ice. And we were at this period in the liottest of the dog-days ; but what is here called a violent summer would be reckoned in France a very ^ever^'winter. * The rock does not furnish the metajin every part, but it is found in veins ; and when once one is discovered, it is followed with as much care as it was formerly sought after. For this purpose, fire is either employed to soften the rock, or powder to blow it to pieces ; the latter mode is by far the most troublesome, but it is beyond measure more useful. We took stones of all colours, ydlow, blue, green, and violet ; but the last appeared to us by far the best, and the fullest of metaL *! u We made a trial of several pieces of loadstone which we found upon the rock ; but >; nlby had lost almost all their power, by the fires whichi had been made above or below, HECNAnD'S JOURNEY TO LAPLAND, fcC l()v which prevented us from taking any avvay with us, as wc thought it better to wait till our return, when we would procure it from the iron- mine. After having investigated all the machines and pumps employed for raising the water, we contemplated at our leisure all the mountains covered with snow that surrounded us. It is upon these rocks that the Laplanders live during winter ; and this country has been in their possession since the division of Lapland, which took place in the reign of Gustavus Adolphus, father of queen Christina. These lands and mountains belong to diem exclusively ; and to mark their property, they have their names written u[ion some stones, or cut out in some parts of the niuuutain which they have had in their |X)ssession, or which they have in- nabited. Such are the rocks of Lumwara, Kercjuerol, Kilavara, Lung, Dondere, or rock of Thunder, which have furnished names to the families of Laplanders which dwell upon them, and which are only distinguished in this country by the surnames that ^ese rocks furnish them with. These mountains are sometimes seven or eight leagues In length ; and although they remain always upon the same rock, they do not hesitate often to shift their places, when necessity leads them to do so, and when their rein-deer have consumed all the moss which was near their habitations. Although some Laplanders have, during the winter, certain fixed places of residence, there are many more who con- standy wander, and whose habitations cannot be discovered ; they are sometimes in the woods, sometimes on the lakes, just as they have need of hunting or fishing, and they are never to be seen, except when they attend the fairs in winter, for the purpose of bar. tering skins for some other article which they stand in need of, and for carrying the tri. bute which they pay to the king of Sweden, but from which they might easily exempt themselves, if they did not wish to attend these fairs. But the need which they have of iron, jsteel, corda^, and knives, and other articles of thb nature, oblige them to attend these fairs, at which they receive the commodities they are in want of. The tribute which they pay is also extremely small. The richest among them, when they have a thousand or twelve hundred rein-deer, which is the case with some, pay generally only two or three crowns at the most. • After being amply informed on all these topics, we began to return to our hut, and saw on the road those forges where the copper is first founded. Here the grossest alloy is separated, and when it lias been long enough in the foundery to have all its impurities thrown out, before taking out the copper at the bottom, they lift up several sheets, which they call rosettes, in which there is only one half of copper, and which are afterwards placed in the furnace, to remove the quantity of dross which still remains. This is the first shape which is given to it here ; but at Konges it is passed three times through the fire, that it may be thoroughly purified, and rendered fit to take that form under the hammer which is wished to be given to it. On Thursday a priest of the Laplanders arrived, with four of that people, for the purpose of attending next day one of the days of religious exercise established through- out all Sweden, to thank God for the victories gained by them on that day. These were the first Laplanders we had seen, and the sight of them gave us much satisfaction. They came to barter fish for tobacco. We regarded them attentively from head to foot ; they are made quite differently from other men. The tallest of them is not more than three cubits high ; and I know not any figure more truly laughable. They have large heads, broad and flat faces, level noses, small eyes, large mouths, and thick beards, descending to their stomach. All their limbs are pro|X)rtioned to thek UtUeness of body ; their legs are thin, their arms long, and the whole of this litol;, machine seems to move on springs. Their winter dress consists of the skin of a lein- de^l , made like a sack, descending to the knees, and tfed round the thighs with a sash *^ / It) I HIXSAUD'S JOimXFV TO LAPL.VSn, IM. of Icallur, adorned with small plates of silver ; the shoes, gloves, and boots of the «aine stuff: atul this has led several historians to relate, tluit there were men in the northern regions habited like beasts, and who wore no other covering than that which nature had given them. They have always u nurse made of the entrails of the rein-deer, which hangs uix)n their baast, and in which they keep u 8p(X)n. They change this dass in summer, and Uike u lighter, which is generally formed of thiie skins of birds, whom they Hay for the purpose of defending themselves against the gnats. They have always above this a sack of coarse or whitish gray cloth, with which they cover themselves ; for they are (luite ignorant of the use of linen. They cover the head with a cap, which is generally mode of the skin of a bird, large as a dui;k, which they call loom^ signifying in their language lame^ because this bird cannot walk ; they place it on their lieads in such a manner, that the bird's head falls over their brow, and its wings cover their ears. Such, sir, is the description ot this little animal, called a Laplander ; and it may be said, that, after the monkey, he approaches the neiirest to man. We interrogated them on several subjects on which we wished for information, and, in particular, we asked them \vherc we could find their comrades. These people gave us every informa- tion. They told us that the Laplanders began to descend from the mountains situated near the Frozen Ocean, from whence th«i heat and the flies hod driven them, and spread themselves towards the lake Tomotracs, where the river Tomo takes ifs rise, for the purpose of fishing a short time, till about Saint Bartholomew's day, by which time they arrive at the mountains of Swapavara, Kilavan, and others, where the cold begins to be felt, and where they intend to pass the winter. They assured us, that we should be certain of meeting with some of the richest of the Laplanders tlMsre, and that, during the seven or eight days which it would take us to travel thither^ they would arrive in those places. They added, that, for tlieir parts, they had remained the whole summer in the neighbourhood of the mine and the lakes around it, having found sufficient nourishment for fifteen or twenty rein-deer, which eveiy one was in possession of, and being too poor to undertake a journey of fifteen days, for which pro- visions must be procured, which they had not in their power to do, in consequence of their having been unable to live away from the ponds, which furmshed them daily with their subsistence. On Friday, the fifteenth day of August, it was extremely cold, and snow fell on the neighbouring mountains. We had a long convenuuion wiUi the priest, when he had finished the two sermons which he delivered this day, the one of which was in the Finnish, the other in the Lapponian language. He, fortunately for us, spoke pretty- good Latin, and we interrogated him on every subject which he could be best ac- (juainted with, such as baptism, marriage, and funerals. He told us, that, with respect to the first, the Laplanders were Christians, and baptised ; but the majority wert; so only in form, and they retained so much of their old superstition, that it might be said of them, they liad only the name of Christians, and they were still Pagans in their hearts. The Laplanders carry their children to the priest, for baptism, a short time after they are born; if in winter, they carry them in their sledges, and if in summer, they place them upon the rein-deer, in their cradles, filled with moss, which are made of the bark of the birch-tree, and in a very peculiar manner. On this occasion they generally make ■:> ami whatever tliis rciii-decr, which thcv call Pantiihris, procUun's, in milk, cheese, or any thing else, IxlongN to the infant, if a daughter, ami forms her portion wIkh she is niar- rietl. There are some also who make a presiiil to their children of a deer when they (jcrceivc Uie lirst tooth , and all the deer which are produced fr-om this one are distin- truished by u jwrticular mark. They change the name which Uic child has received in )aptism when they are unhappy ; and on the first day of their marriage they lie together in the same hut, and caress their wives in tlie presence of every one. Respecting marriage, he told us that the Laplanders married their daughters late, though Uiey nad several offers, when it was known in the country that tlKy had a nam* ber of deer, which luid Ijcen prixluced from tlwse which their father had given them when they were baptised, and when they had their first teeth ; for here this is all that tk-y carry with them : and the son-in-law, far from receiving any thing from his father-in- law, is obliged to purchase the daughter by presents. They generally iKgin, like the birds, to make love in April. WlKn tin; lover has seen some daughter whom he wishes to marry, he must taKe care to be furnished with a quantity of spirituous li(iuor when he visits the father, or the nearest relation, to make his request : this is the only \vay of making love in this coun- try ; and a marriage is never concluded, until several bottles of spirits have been drank, and a considerable quantity of tobacco smoked. The more amorous a lover is, the greater quantity of spirits does he carry ; and it is impossible to take a moix: effectual method of displaying the strength of his passion. They give a particular name to the spirituous liquor which the lover carries to the agreement, and cai! it the hi'ippy arrival of wine, or soubbouvin^ the lover'' s wine. It is a custom among the Laplatiders to afii- aiice their children long before they are married ; they do so with the intention of making the lover contuiue his presents ; and if he wishes to succeed in his enterprise, he must not fail to continue sprinkling his love with such a delightful beverage. At length, after having a year or two performed all the necessary ceremonies, the marriage is sometimes concluded. Formerly the Laplanders had a mode of marriage quite peculiar, whilst they continu- ed buried in the darkness of paganism, which is still observed by some of them, 'i'hcy did not carry the parties before the priest, but the parents married them at liome, with- out any other ceremony than that of striking some sparks of fire by means of a flint : they believed that there was no figure more mysterious and better fitted than this to represent the nature of marriage ; for as the stone contains within itself the sparks of fire, which do not appear, except when it approaches iron, so, say they, there remains a principle of life imseen in both sexes, which only ca'* le perceived when they are united. I believe, sir, that you will not think this vt.y bad reasoning in Laplanders; and there are many men, acute enough, who would feel consideraole difficulty in giving so apposite a comparison. But I know not whether you will consider the following rea- soning to be equally excellent. I have already mentioned, that when a daughter is known in the country to have a number of rein-deer, she does not wimt suitors ; but I did not tell you, sir, that this property is all that they expect in a wife, without giving tliemselves any trouble whether she is hands(Hne or not ; whether she has wit, or is destitute of it ; or even whether she be a maid, or whether another has previously received any marks of her love. But what you will admire still more, and what at first surprised me, is, that these people, far from making a monster of this virginity, believe those girls who have lost it ought to be the more anxiously sought after ; and that poor as they are, which often hapjiens, they IM RF.OMARD'S JOmVKY TO LAPLAND. Itc rn>(]ucntly prefer them to the rich, who urc still maids, or at least who would be con* aidcTcd sucn. But it is (iccesHury to mukc this distinctM)n, sir, that thcbc ^irls, ufwhom I am speaking, must hav<' (ff'^^tcd their favours to those strangers who arrive hen- in winter, for the piiqM)sc of trade, and not to Laplanders. From hence tluy infer, that because a man, whom they believe to be richer and possessed of a better taste than them* selves, has been anxious to give marks of his love tor a girl of their countr)', she must therefore Ix* possessed of some secret merit, of which, though they are at present igno- rant, they will in time l)ecome sensible. So keen are they for these kinds of morsels, that when they come sometimes during the winter to the city of Tonio, and find a girl with child, not only do they forget their interests, in being willing to take her without property, but, even after she has laid in, they pay for her to her parentu us much as Uiey can afl'ord. I know maiw persons, sir, who would be charitable enough to make the fonunes in this manner of a number of poor girls, and who would not ask any thing better than to procure them, without beiiig put to much trouble, advanuigeous oners. If this fashion were to be adopted in France, one would not ^' so many girls remain so long unmarried : the fathers, whose purses are tied with a Ic knot, would not be so much tormented, and the girls themselves would always ha\c in their power a method, by which thoy could escape from the captivity in which they are held. But I do not be- lieve, sir, that ikhovigh the fathers would do all in their power, it would be very easy to introduce it. As.thc Laplanders are naturally ignorant of almost all kinds of diseases, they have not Seen desirous of making some to themselves, like us. Jealousy and the fear of cuckoldom give them no uneasiness : these evils, which torment so many among us, lu^ to them unknown ; and I do not believe there is any word in their language to express the idea of a cuckold : and one may say jocularly with the Spaniard, hi speaking ^jpast ages and the present, . . jiJI^W ■'! Pas«6 lo de oro, ,•!* '•}'.■ PassA lo 6ii plata, ■' •il^V'^ - '** Pa8s6 lo de liierro. .iVt^.*^.',. V Vive lo de cuemo. A \ ■ And while these people are bringing back the golden, we are makinff^^. to ourselves of horn. In fact, sir, you are now to behold among them that wmcpn believe took place in the days of Saturn, namely, a community of possessions wlueh will astonish you. You have seen that the Laplanders are what are called cuckolds before marriage, and you are now to be convinced that they are no less so after it. When the marriage is consummated, the husband does not carry away his wife, but remains one year with his father-in-law, at the end of which period he goes to settle himself where he pleases, and carries with him all that belongs to his wife. The pre- sents even which he made to his father-in-law during the courtship are givep back, and the parents repay those which have been made them by some rein-deer, according to their ability. ^^ I have shown you, sir, that strangers "Kave* a gieat priv^ege in this countrji, which is that of honouring the daughtws on their approach: they have another, which is not less considerable, that of partaking With the Laplanders a shiut: of thcii" beds and their wives. When a stranger arrives in^tJieir huts, they receive him in the best manner they are able, and think they treat him most kindly if they have a glass of spirits lb give him ; but after the refreshment, when the stranger they receivers respectable, and they wish to be kind to him, they make their wives and their daughters approach, and they think '* HMBi >««^«' IlKONARH'W JOtnSK.Y TO I.An,V>rO, kc. 167 the mstlvts highly honoured, if the str«n|^r Ixhavc to them in the snme maniuT thi y do tliimstlvcs; and as tor the wives and daughters, they make no Hcruptc of giving the visitor all that he desires ; and they Ik lieve that he d(Ks them aa much lionour u» their hiisbaiKU and fatlu tn. As this mode oi' Ix haviour surprised me mueh, and ax I had never an opportunity of ex|)trieneinpf it, I procured the most exact inrormatii)n in my power, and learnt se- veral facts of this nature. I will d»eu tell you what I have In en assured is irally true. The Frenchman whom we frtund at the mines of Swampavara, who was a simpU' man, and I believe incapable of contriving a story, assured us, that to pleasia numlK.rof Laplanders he had assisted them in their conjugal duty ; and to show us how thesit people had Used means to induce him to take this trouble, he told n , that one day, after havini^ drunk some glasses of spirits with a Laplander, lu" wassoliciird by this man to lie with his wife, who was then present, svith ail the family , and that uix)n refusing, ^vhi<•h he did in the \xrnt manner he could, the Laplander, not thiding his excuses satisfacU)ry, took his wife and the Frenchman, and having thrown them both upon a bed, he went out of the room and locked the door, begging of the Frenchman, by every argume U he could think of, to do in his place that which he was accustomed to do himself. The story wliich happeixid to Joannes Tornrcus, priest of the Laplanders, of whom I have already spoken, is no less remarkable. It was related to us by the same priest who had been his curate in Lapland, and who hud lived under him more than fifteen ycar^. A Laplander, he told us, one of the richest and most considerable in the Lapland of Torno, wished that his bed was ho: nired by his pastor; he knew no better method of multiplying his cattle, and of drasing down the blessing of Heaven upon all his family : he begged of him several times to do him that honour ; but die pastor, from conscience, or some other motive, wished to avoid it, and always represented to him, that this was not the most certain method of rendering the Deity propitious. The Laplander by no means coincided with this mode of reasoning ; and one day, when he found the pastor alone, he conjured him, on his knees, and by all that he held sacred among the god:* whom he worshipped, not to refuse him the favour that he requested ; and adding pro- mises to his intreaties, he presented him with six crowns, which he was willing to give him, if he would debase himself so far as to lie with his wife. The good priest doubted some time whether he could do it conscientiously, and, not wishing to refuse the poor man, he determined that it was better to make him a cuckold, and gain his money, than to drive him to despair. If this adventure had not been related to us by the same priest, who was at that time his pupil, and who was present, I could never have believed it ; but he assured us of the trutn of it in so earnest a manner, that, independent of any consideration of the manners of the country, I could not doubt it. This kindness which thi- Laplanders display to their women does not limit itself to their pastors ; but, agreeable to what has been already mentioned, and what shall afterwards be shown, extends also to strangers of every description. I will not take any notice, sir, of a girl, whom a magistrate of Lapland, who receives the tribute for the king, had a child by. A Laplander purchased her of him who had dishonoured her, for no other reason than because she had been able to gain the affection of a stranger. Events of this nature are so common h. thiif country, that, even during a short residence aihong the Laplanders, a person can scarcely faU to be convinced of their reality by his o^vn experience. ^' They wash their children in a tub three times a day until they are a year old, and afterwsur^s three times a week : they have few children, and it scarcely ever happens f 1 «: KiB Rf.nxARiv* jornvr.v to i.apland, he. thut nix nrc found in « faniily. Ah soon as ihty arc Ijorn they arc wasttett in snow, till they aix' deprived of I inatii, and then tluy ininterse them in u buth of hot water : I he. lieve they do thin for the |iiujn)»(.' orhardetun^ them to the cold. As noon uh the mother is delivered, she drinks a lur^e drau^ht of oil from the uhule, and she believes that it in of great use to her. It is easy to knon- when in the eradie of what sex u ehild is : if it is a Ijoy, they hang over its head a bou and arrows, or a lance, to teach them, even in the cradle, what ought to be their employment during their livctt, und to inform ihent that it is their duty to render themselves exi)crt in their exercise. Over the cradle of girls they hang the wings of the joixis, which they cull rinpa, with the feet and the bill, to insinuate to them from their inlancy the advantages ol neaUiess and agility. When the wonu n arc pregnant, these jKoplc strike the tabor, for the puq)ose of knowing what sex the ehild will Ik of: they priCiT girU, beeuuMC they receive prettents in marrying them, and they are obliged to pnrchase their wives. Diseases, as I have already mentioned, arc almost unknown among die Laplandeni, and when they arc afTected with any, nature is strong enough to cure tiiem hersrlf; ancl without the assistance of physicians tlicy soon recover their ncalth : however, they employ some remedies, such as tne root of the moss, which they call jcest, or that which is deno- minated stony angelica. The sap which oozes from their fir-trees serves them for plais- ters, and the cheese of the rein-deer is their divine ointment. They apply thest; remedies in various manners. They have the gall of the wolf, w hich they mix with guniwwder, in spirits. When the cold has frozen some part of their bodies, they spread the cheese cut in slices over the part affected, and they arc cured by it. The second method of employing the cheese, both for evtornal and internal remedies, is by inserting a red-hot iron into the cheese, which by its heat draws out a kind of oil, v/ith which they rub themselves on the part affected ; and this remedy is always followed with a certain and marvellous success : it strengthens the breast, removes the cough, and is good for all contusions ; but the usual remedy for the most dangerous diseases is firc : they apply a piece of charcoal perfectly red to the woimd, and suffer it to remain as long as they ore able, that every thing impure in the sore may be eaten out. This is a custom among the Turks ; they have no remedy which they conceive more sovereign. Those who are fortunate enough in France, and other countries, to arrive at an ex- treme old age, are obliged to suffer a great deal of inconvenience which it brings along with it ; but the Laplanders are totally exempted from them, and they feel no infirmity in this state, except a small diminuuon of their ordinary vigour : it is even impossible to distinguish the old men from the young ; and white heads arc very rarely to be seen in this country : they always retain their own hair, which is generally red. But what is still more remarkable, one meets with very few old men who are not blind : their sight, naturally weak, is unable any longer to support either the glare of the snow, with which the earth is almost constantly covered, or the continual smoke issuing from the fire, which is always burning in the middle of their huts ; they consequently become blind in their old age. When a person is sick, they have a custom of playing on a tabor, of which I shall treat afterwards, for the purpose of cUscovering wnether the disease will terminate fa- tally ; and when they sup|K)se themselves certain of unhappy consequences, and that the sick person is drawing near to his end, they gather themselves round his \xd ; and that they may assist the soul of the dying in its passage to the next world, they bring to him as much spirits as they can, and dnnk as long as it lasts, to console themselves for the loss of their friend, and to excite them to weep. No sooner is he dead, than they abandon the house, and eyen demolish it, kst that which remains of the soul ^ the de. RKn>rARiya journry to lah.ani>, &«. I(i9 I, which the ancicnUi ciJIctl manc-i, should do them any injury. The coffin consifttsi of a trcT hollowed out, or even v)metimcs of their Hlednc, into which they put all that the dead person had most valuahic, us his how, his arrows, and his lance, with the intcn tion, that should he one day return to life he may l>e ahic to exercise his former omfcsi- sion. Some of them arc evt n such (jr;illant christians, as to confomid Christianity wifli thcii' ancient sufjcrstitions ; for, liaving heard their priests tell that we should one day ariv again from the dead, they put into the coffin of the dead person his hatchet, a flint, and u niece of iron, to sfikc a lire (Laplat\der» never travel without these necessaries) that wlien he arises he may Ik' able tocutdowi\ trees, level rocks, and bum all the ol)stacles that he may meet with in his road to Heaven. You see, sir, that, nf)twithstanding all their errors, these jjcojile move thithcrwiird as much as possible ; they wish to sirrive at it, either peaceubly or uy force, so that it may be said, /m /jcr/'rrrum it iffncs arl ca'/ot fftassari con.'» JOURNBY TO LAHI-ANU, &r. 171 to kill a deer for its flesh, live on nothing else than its cheese : these cheeses are fat, and have a very strong smell; but being made and eaten without salt, they are quite tasteless. The greatest advantage derived from the rein-deer is, their usefulness in travelling, and in carrying burdens. We had so often heard with astonishment of the manner in which the Laplanders employ these animals in travelling, that we wished to gratify our curiosity upon the spot, and to see in what manner the deer ate fixed to the sledge : we immediately ordered them to bring us one of these machines, which the Laplanders call pulaha, and which we denominate a sledge, and which I lately described : we made them fix the rein-deer b<;fore, at the same distance which our horses genonilly are, to that piece of wood of w!»«'A I have already spoken, and which they call jocolaps : it has no other collar than a jMcce of skin covered with hair, from which a piece descends towards the breast, and passes under the belly between the legs, and is attached to a hold ^vhieh is in the fore part of the sledge. The Laplander has no other guide than a cord llxed to the root of the animal's horns, which he throws on the back of the animal, sometimes on one side, sometimes on the other, and directs it in the road, by drawing to that side on which he wishes it to turn. We travelled to-day, for the first time, in these sledges, with inconceivable pleasure ; and it is in this carriage that they jjerform a long journey in a short time : they advance more or less quickly, according to the strength and vigour of the animal. The Lap- landers rear them intentionally from a cross breed, which is produced from a wild male and a tame female, as I have already mentioned, and they are far more swift than the others, and more fit for travelling. Zieglerus says that a rein-deer can in one day three 1 imes change the horizon, that is, can three times arrive at the most distant mark which can be perceived. This length of road, though very considerable, and not ill expressed, does not furnish us with a sufficient idea of the swiftness of the rein-deer : the Laplanders express it more exactly, when they say that it can travel twenty Swedish miles in a day, or fifty leagues, in only calculating two leagues and a half of French measure to one mile of Swedish. The Swedish mile is six thousand six hundred toises long, and the French league is two thousand six hundred ; however, the Swedish mile is generally calculated as equal to three French leagues. This computation is more satisfactory than the other ; for as in this country the day may be extended to any length, and as the Laplanders in their calculations do not make any distinction betwixt the natural day of twenty-four hours, and the day in which a traveller is on his journey, it will be more correct, for the purpose of giving a clear idea of the distance which a deer can run in an hour, to state, both from the Eieceding computation and my own experience, that those which are to be met with in .apland, kimi /upmarc/i, and which are celebrated for being the swiftest and stro.ngest, can make, when pushed, six French leagues in an hour ; but for this purpo.^^ the sno'v must be hard and frozen. It is true the animal cannot continue to travel long at this rate, and that it requires rest after seven or eight hours of toil Those who wish to go farther do not travel so fast, but continue longer on their way : the animals in this case sup- port the fatigue during twelve or thirteen hours, at the cikI of wWch it becomes necessary to allow them rest Tor a day or two, unless the traveller wish them to die in the sledge. This distance you see, sir, is very considerable ; and if there were posts of the rein- deer established in France, it would not be very difficult to travel from Paris to Lyons in less than twenty-six hours : the diligence would be delightful ; but although it ap- pears that this mode of travelling would be very convenient, yei it would undoubtedly be extremely fatiguing : the leaps which it would be necessary to take ; the ditches over which it would be necessary to skip ; the stones which must be passed over ; and £<' .1 172 HROVARD'S JOUnVEY TO LAPLAND, &C. the constant toil which the traveller would be exposed to in preventing himself from falling, and of raising himself up when overturned, would make one desirous of travel- ling more smoothly, and of running less risk. Although these animals suffer themselves to be conducted with great docility, there arc nevertheless many of them restive and almost untameable : so that when you push them too hard, or wish them to travel farther than they themselves incline, they imme> diately turn round, and, erecting themselves on their hinder feet, they attack with such fury the driver in the sledge, who can neither defend himself, nor escajie from it, on ac- count of his being tied, that they often break his head, and sometimes destroy him, with their fore-feet, in which they have so much strength that they have no other means of defence against the wolves. The Laplanders, to ward off the blows of these animals, have no other remedy than to turn themselves towards the ground, and to cover them- selves with their sledges, until the anger of the rein-deer has been somewhat appeased. They have also another kind of sledge, much finer, and made in a different manner, which they call racdakeris: they make use of it to seek after their wood, and to remove their property, when they change their places of abode. Such, sir, is the manner in which the Laplanders travel in winter, when the snow completely covers the ground, and when the cold has covered it with a slippery crust In summer they are obliged to travel on foot, for the deer are not strong enough to carry them ; and they never yoke them in chariots, which is a practice they are totally ignorant of, on account of the badness of their roads : they however still carry burdens, and the Laplanders take a strong bark of the birch-tree, which they bend into the form of a bow, and place upon its broadest part that which they are to carry, which does not exceed on every side forty pounds weight. In this niannei do they carry children in summer to be baptised, and they themselves follow behind. The most ordinary food of the rein-deer consists of a little white moss, extremely fine, which grows in abundance throughout all Lapland ; and when the earth is wholly covered with snow, nature has imparted to these animals an instinct, which enables them to know the place >vhere it is to be found under the snow ; and whenever they disco""er it, they make a large opening in the snow with their fore-feet, which they do with a surprising swiftness ; but when the cold has so hardened the snow that it becomes ice itself, the deer then eat a certain moss, like a spider's web, which hangs from the pine-tree, and which the Laplanders call Itiat. I believe I have already said that the rein-deer have no milk, except when they have a young one, which sucks three months ; and soon as the young one dies, they have no more milk. When they wish them to eat, they place before them the pods of the pine- tree ; and when they tease and irritate the mother, she strikes them with her horns. It is said of these animals, that they speak in their ears if they wish them to ^c en one side or the other : this is completely false. They travel almost constantly with a vunductor, who leads six of them ; and when any one wishes to travel to any place, if he can find a rein-deer on its return to that place to which he wishes to go, he will not require any guide, as the deer will take him to the place of destination without any guide, and that too although there be no regular road, and the distance be more than forty leagues. On Saturday we set out to go on foot to the priest's house, which was alx)ut five miles distant, and from whence we afterwards determined to travel north-west, and go to Tornotresch, where we were to find the Laplanders whom we were in search of. We were no sooner out of Swapavara than we had supper prepared for us : we killed three or four birds, which are called in this country siairipa, or birds of the mountain^ and which the Greeks denominated lagopos, or hairy -foot ed : itisof tiie size of a hen. HKGNARD'S JOURNEY TO LAFLAND, kc. 173 and during summer has the phimage of a pheasant, but more of a brovvn colour, and is distiiiguislu'd in certain places by whitish spots ; in winter it is quite black. The male imitates, while flying, the noise of a man who laughs extremely loud : it sleeps rarely among trees ; and uirther, I know no game of such an agreeable taste ; it has at the same time the delicacy of the pheasant and the tenderness of the partridge. It is found in great plenty on the mountams of this country. Two miles distant from Swapavara we met with the barque of the Laplanders to whom we had spoken the day before, and who were to conduct us to Tornotresch : they had been fishing the whole night, and brought us very excellent salmon-trout, which are called in this country cerlax. From thence, continuing our journey by water, we encamped on a little height. We passed the night in the middle of the wood, which we found very agreeable ; for the cold being extremely violent, we were obliged to make such a large fire to protect us from wild beasts, and especially the liears, that we this day set fire to the forest. We forgot to extinguish it on our departure, and it ex- tended with such rapidity, by means of a tempest, that on our return, fifteen days after, we found it still burning in certain parts of the forest, where it had burned with suffi- cient success : but this did harm to nobody ; and incendiaries meet with no punishment in this country. We travelled only half a mile on Sunday, in consequence of torrents and an impe- tuous wind, which constantly hindered us ; and during the time which we took to travel this length we could not advance four steps, without seeing or hearing extremely large pines fall, which in falling made a dreadful noise, which resounded throughout the whole forest. This tempest, which lasted the whole of both day and night, obliged us to stop, and to pass this night as we had done the last, with equally large fires, v^hich, however, we made with more precaution, that every thing might not be burned on our route : this led our boatmen to say, that four Frenchmen would be sufficient to burn the whole country in eight days. Next day, Monday, unwilling to be exposed to the north wind without advancing, we failed not, notwithstanding the continuance of the tempest, to proceed on our jour- ney, upon a lake which liad the ap[)earance of an agitated sea, so high were the waves ; and after five or six hours of exertion we arrived, after travelling three-quarters of a mile, at the church of the Laplanders, where the priest lived. This church is called Chucasdes, and it is the place where the fair of the Laplanders during winter is held, to which they come, for the purpose of bartering the skins of the rein-deer, of ermines, martins, and minevers, for spirits, tobacco, and valmar, which is a kind of coarse cloth, with which they cover themselves, and surround their huts. The merchants of Torno and the neiglibouring country do not fail to attend on this occa- sion, which continues from the Conversion of St. Paul in January to the second day of Februarj'. The magistrate and the judge of the Laplanders attend in person; the one, to receive the tribute which they pay to the king of Sweden ; and the other, to terminate any differences which may arise among them, and to punish all vicious ;md abandoned persons, although it seldom happens tha' any of this description can be found ; for they live with each other in great confidence, without ever having heard of thieves, who ne- vertheless would find no difficuhy in prosecuting their projects, as the huts, lull of various articles, remain quite open during the ^^'hole summer, while they travel to Norway, where they rei^iain three or four months. They leave in the middle of the woods, on the top of a tree which they have cut, all the necessiu-y ammunition, and their being stolen is ver}"^ rarely heard of. The priest, as you may well believe, sir., is not absent on thb occasion ; and it js at i¥. 174 UKGyAIltrS JOURNEY TO LAPLAND, fcc. this time that he receives the tenths of the skiiis of rein-deer, of cheese, of gloves, of shoes, and otlicr articles, according to the ability of those who make them presents. The Laplanders, who have the most Christianity, do not confine themselves to making presents to their pastors, but they also make offerings to the church. We have seen a number of skins of minevers, which hung before ihc altar, and when they wish to ward off some disease which afltcts their flocks, or to. pray to G pletely melted. The floor of the hut is made of branches of the birch-tree, or the pine, which they throw down in a heap, when they em^oy them to make their beds of. Such, sir, are the habitations of the Laplanders. There, the old and the young, the male and the female, the fathers and the children, five together : they all sleep promis- cuoudy, and quite naked, upon the skins of rein-deer, wmch frcquendy produces very serious disorders. The door of the hut is very straight, and so low, that it is necessary to enter it on the knees ; they generally place it tovrards the south, in order that they may be less exposed to the north wind. There is also among these people another hut, which is fixed, and of a hexagonal form, with pines, which they fix the one above the other, and of which the apertures are lined with moss. These huts belong to the richer individuals, who do not fail to change their places of residence like the rest, but who return always after some time I ir il vol.. J, A a 178 KF.OXARD'S JUCRNEY TO LAPLAND, kc. to th? same place, which is fjcncrally in the immediate neighbourhood of a cataract, which aft'ordh them a great lueility in procuring tibh. It was in one of these hutH that we passed the night : it Wiis covered only with branches interwoven, which were filled with moss. We met here two Laplanders, whoi \luted, by giving tlu-m our hand, and saying Fourht, which is the Luppunian saluti (I means If^elcome. Thetie poor people saluted us in the same manner, and rci our salute by the words Pourtst only you are also welcome. They accom< paniid tliese words with their ordinary bow, which they performed in the manner of the Muscovites, by bending their knees. We did not fail to give them live or six kinds of spirits, for the purpose of becoming ac(|uaintcd with them, which they took so heartily that they became intoxicated, and their brain beginning to turn, one of them wished to act the sorcerer, and took his tabor. As this instrument is the most essen- tial point of their superstition, you no doubt wish, sir, that I should speak to you of their religion. . L AH the world knows, that the people who lived nearest to the north have always been addicted to idolatry and to magic : the Finlanders, in this rcsix;ct, surpassed all others ; and we may say, that they were as well versed in that diabolical art, as if they had had for their teachers, Zoroaster or Circe. The ancients knew them to be so ; and a Danish author, in speaking of the Finlanders, from whom the Laplanders are de- scended, says. Tunc Biarmenses arma artibus pennutantes, carminibus in nimbos solvere coelutn, latamque aerisfaciem tristi imbrium aspergine conjuderunt. " The Biarmenses, having recourse to arts instead of arms, change, by means of their incantations, serene weather into dreadful tempests, and cover the cheerful face of Heaven with gloomy clouds." This writer informs us that the Biarmenses, who were the ancestors of tne pre- sent Finlanders, were as bad soldiers as they were good magicians. He speaks of them in another passage in these terms. Sunt Finni ultimi septentrionis populi ; vix quidem habitabilem orbis terrarum partem culturd complent : acer iisdem telorum est usus ; non alia gens promptiore jaculandi peritia fruitur, grandibus et. latis sagittis dimicant, tncantattontim studiis incumbunt, &c. " The Finlanders," says he, " are the people who dwell farthest towards the north; they live in the most uninhabitable part of the world, and make use of arrows so skilfully, that there is no other people so adroit in drawing the bow ; they fight with large and broad arrows, and give themselves up to the study of enchantments." If the Finlanders were so much addicted to magic for- merly, their descendants, the Laplanders, are not less so at the present day. They are only Christians from jjolicy, and by constraint. Idolatry, which is much more palpa- ble, and which aftects the senses more than the worship of the true God, cannot be rooted out of their aftections. The errors of the Laplanders maj be classed under two heads ; those which arise from their superstition and paganism, and those which are owing to their enchantments and their magic. Their first superstition is generally to observe their unlucky days, during which they are unwilling to go to the chace, and believe that their bOws would break on these days, which are the days of Saint Catha- rine, Saint Mark, and others. They will scarcely venture out on Christmas-day, which they belive to be unlucky. The origin of tliis superstition is, that they have misimderstood what happened on this day, when the angels descended from Heaven, and astonished the shepherds ; and they believe that on this day evil spirits are abroad in die atmosphere, and might destroy them. They arc also superstitious enough to believe, that after death there remains something called manes, of which they are much afraid ; and when any one is killed in a dispute with another, it is necessary for a third person to go to the place where he is buried, that he may be enabled to pro- '•(*;-■; .1111 IffJP WWWP**"^*-. RP.r;NAni)'8 .iouuney to i.Ari.AM). fcc. 17V mote a puciRcntion between the iktsoii who ih dead und him who is nlive. This is, strietly siKakin^, the error of the ancient Pa^^uns, who called Manes t/uasi qui mnumnt post ohitum. All this is only sii|)er!>tition : but you shall now see how much they have of impiety, pagiUiisin, and mafi^ic. In the first place they mix Jesus Christ indiflferently with their false gotls, and they make only one iK'ingof G(xl and the devil, whom they Ix-lieve they may worship in the manner most agreeably, to their taste. This mixture is particularly to be remarked on their tabors, where they place Storiunchar and his family above Jesus Christ and l;is apostles. They have three principal gods ; the first is called Thor, or the god of thun- rter ; the second Storiunchar ; and the third Parjtttte, which means the sun. These three gcKls arc worshipped only b\ the Laplanders of Liila and Pitha ; for those of Kimiet and of Torno, among wh< a I have lived, know of one only, whom they call Seyta, and who is the same among them, as Storiunchar among the others. These gods are made of a long stone, destitute ot any other figure than that which nature has given it, and such as they find it on the borders of the lakes. So that every stone made m a peculiar manner, rough, or full of holes and concavities, is with them a g(xl ; and the more remarkable its structure is, the greater is their veneration for it. Thor is the chief of the gods, and he is, they believe, ruler of the thunder, and they arm him with a hammer. Storiunchar is the second, whom they suppose to be vicar of the former, as if one should say, Thoriunchar, lieutenant of Thor. He pre- sides over all animals and birds, as well as fish ; and as it is him of whom hey have most need, it is to him also that they chiefly make sa( rifices, to render him pi opitious. They place him generally on the borders of lake*, and in the forests, over wnLii lie extends his jurisdiction, and (llHoliiyn his pow( r. The third g(xl, whom they have in common with several other PagunSi Is tin ^mn, for whom they have much v( nrru'ion, on account of the benefits which they rectivi from him. This is the oiH of all fhc three that they adore, whom, in my opinion, they have the greatest reason to worship. t\\ the first place, he e.hases imvhVi \\\ f|}s aoproach, that cold, which has tormented them during more than nine [\nu<\\^^ ) h^ wulhvtiH the earth, and affords nourishment to the rein-detr J he hm^a a i\i\v wl/| M several months, and dissipates the dark- ness in which they hati i/j long iMtn \\\\iu «| ; on which account they have, during his absence, a gnat respect for tlie \\it , m\\\\< iji'j' hfljfve to be a living representation of the sun, and whicli prfKllires on ewtji '' " ■ ^^ ' ; vvhich the other does in the heavens. Although each family has its ow/j |)artj» ,J ii gcjds, the Laplanders nevertheless have public places, which mlong to the crtMiminiitv I will talk to you afterwards of one of these places which I vbjteti; ' iheir altars : and it is there that Uiey generally make their sjicrificcs, in the following u mijcr : When the (iaplaiiriers have kno'vn li} tlie noise of the tabor, that their god is desir- ous of blofxl, and that he d( inands ;in om ring, they conduct the victim, which is a male rein-deer, to the altar of the god to whom they wish to sacrifice, and Uiey permit no wifi' or daughter, who are also foi bidden to sacrifice, to approach the altar. 'I'hey slay the victim at the foot af the altar, in piercing his heart with a knife, plunged into his side ; then approaching the altar with reverence, they take the fat of the animal, and the blood nearest to the heart, with vvhich they sprinkle their god, with fear, in making crosses to him with the snme blood. They place behind the idol the horn of the feet, the bones, and thr hor ; thej hang upon the one side a red thread, adorned with carded wool ; and upon the other those parts, by means of which the animal augments 180 RRGNAUD'S .lOUUNKY TO LAI'LANU, fce. I ita species. The sacrificer carries uwuy with him every part which can l)c Ciiten, and leavcM only the honis to hi.s god. Uiit wlicn it hapi)cnM that the ultiir of that g(xl, to whom they intend to Hacrifice, is Hituated on the; summit of inaccessible mountains, where they believe him to reside, in tlut case, as they are unalile to sprinkle tlieir gfxl with the l)luod of the victim, they take a small stone, which they steep in it, and tlirow it towards the spot which they art: unable to reach. They do not oflfer up sacrifices to their gods only, but they also make them to the manes of their piirents, or their friends, to prevent them from doing them any injury. Tiie diiferencc which takes place with respect to the sacrifice to the manes is, that the Uireud, which is red in the other case, is black in this, and that they bury the remains of the animal, as the bones and the horns, and do not leave them uncovered, as they do upon the altars. Thus much, sir, have they in common with the Pagans : let us now consider wliat they possess in particular, with respect to their magical art. Although the kings of Sweden have been able to do something by their threatening edicts, and the punishment of some sorcerers, yet they have found it impossible entirely to abolish the intercourse of the Laplanders with the devil ; they have only lessened their number, and prevented tlie practiscrs of the art from professnig it openly. Among other enchantments which they are capable of producing, they say, that they can stop a vessel in the middle of its course, and that the only remedy against the power of this charm is the sprinkling of female purgations, the odour of which is insupporta- ble to evil spirits. They can also change the face of the sky, or cover it with clouds ; and that which they perform with the greatest facility is, tlieir sale of the wind to those who have need of it ; and they have for tliis purpose a handkerchief, which they tie in tlm:e different places, and which they give to him who has need of it. If he i 'tie the first, he procures a gentle and agreeable wind, if he require a stronger he unties the :3ci:ond, but if he loosen the third, he is certain to excite a dreadful tempest. They say, tliat this mode of selling the wind is very common in this country, and that the very lowest sorcerers have this power, provided, that the wind which is wanted has already com* menced, and requires only to be excited. As I have never seen any thing of all this, I shall give no opinion respecting it j but with respect to the tabor, I can tell you some- thing with a greater degree of certainty. This instrument, with which they perform all their charms, and which they call Kannus, is made of the trunk of a pine and a birch -tree, and the veins of which ought to proceed from cubt to west. This kannus is made of a single piece of wood, hollowed in its thickest part in an oval form, the under part of which is convex, in which they make two apertures, lon^nough to suffer the fingers to pass throv gh, for the purpose of holding it more firmly. The upper part is covered with the skin of a rein-deer, on which they paint, in red, a number of figures, and from whence several brass rings are seen hanging, and some pieces of the bone of the rein- deer. They usually paint the following figures ; they draw first, towards the middle of the tabor, a transverse line, above which they place the gods whom they hold in the greatest veneration, as Thor, with his underlings, and Seyta, and they draw another line a little below the former, but which extends only half across the tabor ; there Jesus Christ, with two or three aposUes, are to be seen : above these lines are represented the sun, the moon, the stars, and the birds ; but the situation of the sun is under these very lines on which they place the animals, the bears, and the serpents. They also sometimes draw upon them the figures of lakes and rivers. Such, sir, is the figure of a tabor ; but they do not place upon every one the same thing, for there are some on which troops of rein deer are drawn, for the . ^ n, ; ,, j ,...i. "••r- KP.tiNAUU'fl JOl'llNrV TO LA»*LAXn, lie. 181 purposf- of knowing where thoy may l)e found, \\\\rn nny of thrm irc lost. Tlurc arc some fitfuns which tell the |m'j>tr nlaccs for hmilinjif, and other!* for lishinj;; M)mc for diHCOVcrnipf whether the d'mc thCM with wliich tln-y are nftceted will he tnortul ; and in this manner, of several oth:r matters of which they are in donht. Two cireumstances arc e.sM.*ntial to the making use of this tal)or ; the index, for the InirpoMC of murkiiiK the thing which they dei^ire, and the hammer to strike the tabor, or the purpose of moving the index, till it stop at some figure. This index usually consists of a piece of brass made in the form of studs, which arc fixed in the bridles of horses, from whenf'c several other little rings of the same metal arc |K'ndant. The hammer is made out of one hone of the re in -deer, and is of the form of u large T. borne are made in a diilercnt form, but this is the most usual. In such veneration do they hold this instrument, that they keep it always wrapped up in the skin of a rein- deer, or in something else ; they never carry it imto the house by the same door through which the women pass ; but they introduce it, eidier through the cloth which surrounds Uieir hut, or by the aperture through which the smoke issues. They gene, rally make uae of the tabor for three principal purjioscs : for hunting and fishing, for sacrifices, and for knowing the iiuimueiiuns which arc taking place in the most distant countries : and when they wish to know something on this subject, they take care, first, to bend the skin of the tabor, in taking it near to the fire ; then a Laplan* der, falling ou his knees, together with all those who arc present, he bcs^ins to strike his tabor all round, and redoubling tlie strokes with the words which he pronounces, as if he were possessed, his countenance becomes blue, his hair stands erect, and he, atleiii^h, tolls 'uotionless on his face. He remains in this state as long as he is possess- ed by the devii, and as it is necessary for his genius to bring him a sign, to prove that he h;' been at the place wheix he was sent ; then, recovering his senses, he tells that which ^ devil i< * ealed to him, and shows die mark which has iK'en brought to hini. The sn cond manrier, which is Irss important, and less violent, is, how to discover the event of a fourth u>»e, to whi'h they apply the index, viz. lor the purpoiie of discovering whether their gods desire sacrifices, and of what kind they ^vish them to ix*. If the index stop at the figure which represents Thor, or Se)'ta, they sacrifice to him, and learn at thr same time what victim gives him the greatest satisfaction. Behold, sir, the usefulness of this wonderful Lapponian tabor, of which we in France are totally ignorant. For my part, I who bel. ve ^vith difficulty respecting sorcerers, I shall cheerfully oppose the general opinion of t whole world, as well as of many intelligent men, who have assured me that nothing w v, more true, than the Lap- landers could know distant events. John Tomajiis, whom ' have already mentioned, priest of the province of Tomo, an extremely learned man, whose veracity I would readily believe, asserted, that this had happened to him so fretjiently, and that certain Laplanders had told him so often every thing that had occurred u: his journey, even to the smallest particulars, that he had no difficulty in believing all ti t had been related concerning it. The archives of Bergen testify a fact which happened to the servant of a merchant, who, wishing to know what his master was doing in German , went to visit a very famous Laplander, and havhig written the information of the sorcerer in the i 1^^ m 183 nr.iiWRD'A JOIRXKV TO l.\l'l. \M), \e. archives of the ritv, the fad fiiriud out to Ik* as uas nlatttl, the mrrchnilt Imvinf; aAcrwardM coiiR^sid, that, aj^oiably to the sorcererS iDformatioii, he had, on Mich u day, hiept with a ^irl. Ah the Laplander had mentioned a thoti^and other factH of thii nature, whiih hail Ikto related to me in the (;ountrv by ho many men worthy of credit, I eonfesn to you, sir, that I could not help lK-lievin|>( them. VVIk tlur these thinj^n which I Iwve mentioned to you be true or false, this is certain, that th( I^a|>landers have an implicit faith in the emcts of the tabor, in which they are Hlniifi^tlu ned every day by the stranjje success which they observe to attend it. If they had no other instrument but this to cxeix:ise their diabolic al art, it would do harm to none but themselves ; but they hiivc, b // 5^ <. (/j (/. 1.0 l.k !.25 f IIIIIM i:.: Ilia '- liliO I. ft WJ. 1.4 6" IIM 120 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut canadien de microreproductions historiques A^ UEliXAUU'S JUUUNEV TO l.ArLAM), Sec. 183 simple efiect of chance, we told liim tliatwc should l)clitvc him to be a real sorcerer, if he could send his demon to the lodging of any of us, and bring back a sign, to convince us that he had been there. I abktd him for the kej s of my mother's cabinet, \yhich I well knew he could only lind upon her, or under her bolster, and I promised him fifty ducats, if he could tiring them to me. As tl/i journey was pretty long, it was necessary for him to take three or four good draughts of spirits, tl.at he might travel the more giily, p.nd be enabled to employ the strongest and the most powerful charms to call his familiar spirit, and to persuade him to undertake the journey, and to return si)eedily. Our sorcerer used his utmost exertions; his eyes rolled round, his face changed colour, and his beard bristled violently ; he almost broke his tabor, so violently did he strike it, and he fell at length upon his face, as stiff as a rod. All the Laplanders who were [ire- sent carefully hindered any person from approaching him while in this state, and kept oft" even the Hies, not suffering them even to remain upon him. I assure you that, when I saw this ceremony, I believed that I was going to see fall in at the hole in the roof of the hut the keys which I had asked for ; and I waited till the charm would be finished, that I might make another request, and beg of him to procurc me a quarter of aii hour's conversation with the devil, from which I expected to learn many things. I should have kno^vn whether Miss is still a virgin, and the nature of the intercourse betwixt Monsieur and Madame . I would have asked him if Monsieur had I [ his wife during three years that he has lived with her ; whether the last child of Madame is her husband's or not : in line, I should have known a great r jmber of things, which none but the devil knows. Our Laplander remained as if he had been dead during a good quarter of an hour , when, beginning to recover a little, he began to look upon us, one after another, with haggard eyes ; and after having examined us all very attentively, he addressed himself to me," and told me that his spirit was not able to act agreeably to his inclination, because I was a greater sorcerer than he, and my genius was more powerful ; and that if I would give orders to my devil to intermeddle nothing with his, he would give me satisfactior . I confess to you, sir, that I was exceedingly suqirised at having been so long a sor- cerer, without being sensible of it. I did every tiling in my power to put our Laplander on the road ; I commanded my familiar demon to give no disturbance to his ; but after all these efforts we could gain no intelligence from our sorcerer, who extricated himself very aukwanlly from so difficult an affair, and who sallied out in great wrath from the hut, to go, I believe, to destroy all his gods and devils, who had deserted him in the time of need, and we never saw him more. On Thursday morning we continued our journey to the lake of Tornotresch ; and at the place where it begins to form a river one can observe a little island on the left, which is sur- rounded on all sides with dreadful cataracts, which descend with an awful precipitation among the rocks, where they excite a terrible noise. A famous altar, dedicated to Seyta, has been establbhed there since the earliest times, to which the Laplanders of the province of Tomo resort, for the purpose of offering up sacrifices on the most ur^nt occasions. John Tomaeus, of whom 1 have already spoken several times, mentioning this place, speaks of it in the following manner : Eo loco tibi Tornotresch ex se cfftidit Jiuvium in insula quddam, in medio cataract a Dara dicta, reperiuntur Seyta lapides, specie hiimand collo- cati ordine. Primus altitudine viriproceri, post, qmtuor alii patdo hreviorcs, jtixta col- locati : omnes quasi pileis qiiibtisdam in capitibus suis ornati: et quoniam res est dtffi- cillima periculique pfenissima, propter vim cataracta indictam navigium appellere, idea Lapponi pridem desierunt invisere locum istum, ut nunc explorarni equeant, utrum quo- modove ulli fuerint in istam insulam, " In the place," says he, " where the lake of 184 RF.GXAUD'S JOURNEY TO L VPI.ANl). 8tO. Tornotrcsch begins to form a river, on a ccrtiiin island in the middle of the cataract called Dara, Scytan stones aie fonnd, placed in regular order, and liearing the human form. The first is of the size of a lall man, and four others, somewhat less, placed at its side : every one of them has on its head a kind of little hat ; and because it is very difficult, and even dangerous, to approach tliis island in a boat, the Laplanders have for a long time past ceased to visit tliiis altar ; and they cannot understand how it has been ix)ssible to adore these gods, and in what manner these stones have been conveyed thither." We approached this altar, and perceived rather a large heap of rein-deer's horns, than the gods, who were behind. The first wjis the thickest and the largest : it was not at all shaped in the human form, and I cannot well say what it resembl^ ; but this I can say, that it was very greasy and very dirty, in consequence of the blood and fat with which it was covered. This one was called Seyta ; his wife, his children, and servant were ranged on his right side, in regular order ; but all diese stones had no other shape than what they received from nature, when exposed to a fall of water ; they were as thick as the first, but much shorter. All these stones, and particularly that which represented Seyta, were placed upon branches of the birch-tree, which had been lately cut ; and there was to be seen on one side a mass of carved pieces of wood, upon which some characters were engraved. VVe observed one in the middle, which was much thicker and taller than the rest ; and this was, as our Laplanders informed us, the staff which Seyta employs when on a journey. A little behind all these gods there were two otliers, thick, greasy, and covered with blood, under whom there was, as well as the rest, a number of branches : th:se were nearer the river than the others ; and our Laplanders told us that these gods had been thrown several times into the water, and that they had always been found again in their places. Some time after I saw a circumstance contradictory of the information of Tomeeus. He says, in the first place, tliat this spot is no more frequented by Laplanders, in consequence of the difficulty of approaching it ; and it is on this account that it is held in such great veneration by them, because, according to them, the Seytan gods take delight in places difficult of access, or even inaccessible, as is evinced by the saciifices which they make at the bottom of the mountains, where they imbue the stone with the blood of the victim, and throw it to those places which thev are unable to reach. But, according to the assurances of our Laplanders, this place is at present as much frequented as formerly ; and this we were induced to believe, by the green leaves which still remained on the branches which supported these stones, and by the fresh blood with which they were still sprinkled. With respect to the hats which Tomseus mentions the gods had upon their heads, they consist merely of a flat figure, which is at the top of the stone, and juts out ^ litde from it : but only the two first, which represent Seyta and his wife, have this appearance ; the rest being merely stones of a long shape, full of protuberances and holes, and ending in a point ; they represent die children of Seyta, and all the rest of his household. In fine, the altar is composed solely of a single rock, which is covered with grass and moss, like the rest of the island, with this difrcrence, that the blood spilt, and the quantity of wood and bones of the rein-deer, render the place more frequented. Notwithstanding all that our Laplanders could say, to prevent us from carrying off these gods, we failed not to diminish the number of Seyta's family, and to take each of us one of his children ; while they failed not to threaten us, and to call down impreci^. tions on our head, by assuring us that our journey sliould be unsuccessful, if we excited the wrath of their gods. If Seyta had been Uiinner and less heavy, I should have car« ried him off with his children ; but having taken him in my hand, it was with gresft difficulty that I could move him from tlie ground. The Laplanders, observing this, con> RECNAUD'S JOURNEY TO LAI'LAND, &c. 185 sidcrcd me a man already doomed to destruction, who could not go many steps without being at least thunder-struck ; for the most certain mark, in their opinion, of a god in- censed, is the weight discovered in the idol ; as, on the other hand, when the g(xl is propitious, and ready to go where he is desired, the idol can be lifted with great ease : It is by this means also that they learn whether he is desirous of a sacrifice. We had no sooner left this island than we entered the lake of Tomotresch. From this lake the river Torno takes its rise : it is in length about forty leagues from Ciist to west, but in breadth it is very inconsiderable : it is frozen from September to St. John's day, and furnishes an almost inconceivable quantity of iish to the Laplanders. The tops of the mountains by which it is surrounded are so high, that they conceal it ; and the snows with which they are constantly covered prevent one almost from distinguishing them from the clouds. These mountains are totally bare, and have no wood growing on them : there are nevertheless a number of beasts and birds upon them, and chiefly sieiripor, which prefer these situations to any other. It is around this lake that the Laplanders sprecid themselves when they return from Norway, whence they have been banished for a season by the heat and the gnats ; and it is here, and in the neighbour, hood, where the greater nr.mber of them deposit their riches : they have no other strong box to hold their money and their most valuable articles. They take a pot of copper and fill it with their most precious goods, after which they carry it to the most secret and retired spot which they can think of; there they bury it in a deep hole dug for the purpose, and cover the place with grass and moss, to prevent any one from discovering it. All this is done by the Laplander, without giving any information respecting it to his wife or children ; and it often hapjiens that the children lose a treasure, in conse- quence of its being too well hid, when the father happens to die an unexpected death, which prevents him from discovering where his riches are concealed. All the Lap- landers hide likewise their property : and quantities of rix-doUars, and vessels of silver, rings, and other trinkets and ornaments, which have no other owner but him who finds them, and who does not ^ve himself very much trouble in seeking after the true owner, are often discovered. We advanced pleasandy about seven or eight leagues upon the lake, near to a mountain which surpassed all the rest in height; it was here that we ended our journey, and erected our memorial. We were full four hours in ascending to the top, by a path which had never before been trod by a human being : when we had at length arrived at the summit, we saw the whole extent of Lapland, and the northern ocean, as far as the North Cape on the western side. It was here that we planted the following inscription, which was its proper place, but which will never be read, I believe, except by the bears : •V • • ' " Gallia nos genuit ; vidit noB Africa ; Gangem •>- V .V f , Hausimus, Europamque oculis lustravimus omnem ; ..., •, . ,. v.^.r- Casibus et variU acti teiT^que mariquc, \ « . „ , , Hie tandem stetiinus, nobis ubi defuit orbis. De Fercourtj De Corberotii Regnard. jtnno 1681, die 22 ^ugtuti,*'* This rock will be at present known in the world by the name of Metavara, which w? gave it. This word is compounded of the Latin word meta, and another Finland word vara, which means rock / as if vire had said, the rock of boundary. In fact, sir, it was here that we stopped, and I do not believe that we will ever go farther. While we were mounting and descending from this mountain, our Laplanders went .1 »,' 1 '1 I H ^i*' ./•;^f^JV = VOL. I. * For the translation, see page 175. B b _ ibo RECNAnD'S JOURNEV TO LAPLAND, &c. to find out the habitatiuns of their comrades : they did not return till an hour alter midnight ; and they told us, that after having travelled a great way they had not been able to fmd any body. This intelligence vexed, but did not depress: us, for we had only come this length for the purtiose of seeing the most distant spots, and we had left a nimiber of objects behind us, which we had deferred visiting till our return. We hiid been desirous ofemnloying our first ardour in visiting the most difficult objects, lest, this fire of curiosity being lessened, we should have been contented with observing the nearest objects. We resolved therefore now to retrace our steps ; and the wind being westerly, we set sail early in the morning, and returned in owe day to find that little old Laplander whom 1 have already spoken of, and ^vho promised to entertain us on our return : we met him oil the river fishing, and we induced hiifl, by our present of tobacco and spirits, to take us to his hut, although he endeavoured to avoid it, iind seemed to forget the promise which he had made us. He informed one of our Lapland conductors, who was his son-in-law, of the place of his residence ; and having set out through the woods with one of our interpreters, whom we expressly prohibited from quitting liim, we continued our route by water. Having arrived in two hours opposite to the place where the hut was situated, we went ashore, and finding that it was sull at a considerable disUmce, we took, with us a quantity of tobacco ^.nd a bottle of spirits, and followed our Laplander, who conducted us during the whole night through the wood. This man, who was not intimately acquainted with his father's residence, which had been lately changed, was as much embarrassed as ourselves : sometimes he nut his ear to the Ciuth, in order to hear some noise ; sometimes he examined the f(X)tsteps of the animals which we met with, in order to discover whether the rein-deer which had passed were savage or tame; sometimes he climbed like a cat to the tops of pine-trees, to discover the smoke, and always roared with his whole force, with a dreadful voice, which resounded through all the wood. At length, after having wandered a long time, we heard a dog bark ; never did a voice appear to us so charming as that of this dog, which came to console us in the desert. We turned to that side from whence the noise proceeded ; and after having still travelled some time we fell in with a large troop of rein-deer, and a short time after- wards we arrived at the hut of our Laplander, who had only just arrived, like ourselves. This hut was in the middle of the wood, constructed like all the rest, and covered with its valdmar \ it was surrounded with moss, for the purpose of feeding about eighty rein-deer which the Laplander possessed. These rein-deer form the whole wealth of this people : there are even some who have a thousand and twelve hundred. It is the employment of the women to take care of them, and they tie and milk them at certain hours : they count them twice every day ; and when one strays, the Laplander searches for it in the woods till he finds it. They sometimes run a very long time after these animals, and follow their tracks in the snow for three whole weeks. The women, as I have already said, have a particular care over the rein-deer and their young ; they watch them constantly, and guard them day and night against the wolves and other savage beasts. The best method of guarding them against the wolves is diat of tying them to some tree ; and the wolf, who is very suspicious, and fearful of being taken, b afraid that this is only a feint, and that there is near the animal some snare, in which he may be caught. 'The wolves are in this country extremely strong, and quite gray ; they are almost quite white during the winter, and are the most deadly enemies of the rein-deer, who defend themselves against them with the fore-feet, when they cannot escape by flight. There is also an animal of a grayish brswn colour, about the height of a dog, wliich the Swedes call jar*, and the Latins gulOf which also carries on a bloody warfare nF.GNAUU'S JOURNEY TO LAPLAND, &C. 187 P wiih the rcin-decr. This Ijcast will ascend to the to\)s of the liighcst trees, tor the pur- pose of seeing and surprising its enemy, while it remains concealed. When tlwjwrt discovers a rein-deer, whether tame or wild, passing under the tree on \»hich he is seated, he throws himself on its back, and placing its hind-feet on its neck, and his fore- feet towards its tail, he stretches out and stiffens himself with such violence, that he slits ojien the rein-deer's back, and inserting his snout, which is extremely sharp, into the animal, he in this manner drinks its blood. The skin of lln^Jocrt is very handsome and very beautiful ; it is even compared to that of the sable. There are also some birds which carry on a destructive warfare with the rein-deer ; and among the re u the eagle is extremely fond of the flesh of this animal. In this country great numbers of eagles are to be found, of such an astonishing size, that they often seize upon with their claws the young rein-deer of three or four months old, and lift them up in this manner to dieir nests, at the tops of the highest trees. This parti- cular immediately appeared to me, what I suppose it will also do to you, very doubtful ; but so true is it, that the guard employed to watch the young rein-deer is only used for this very purpose. All the Laplanders have given me the same information ; and the Frenchman who was our interpreter assured me that he had seen many examples of it ; and that having one day followed an eagle, which carried a young rein-deer from its mother's side to its own nest, he cut the tree at the foot, and found that the half of the animal had already been eaten by the young ones. He seized the young eagles, and made the same use of them which tliey had made of his young deer, namely, he ate them. The flesh is pretty good, but black, and somewhat insipid. The rein-deer remain pregnant nine months. When the Laplanders wish to wean the young ones, they put upon their heads a circle of pine, the branches of which are made sharp, and prick very much, so that when the young one approaches its mother, in order to take its usual nourishment, she, finding herself pricked, pushes away the young one with her horns, and obliges it to seek for nourishment elsewhere. This is not the only employment of the women ; they make the clothes, the shoes, and the boots of the Lap- landers ; they draw the carded wool to cover thread : this they do with their teeth, while they hold the bone of a rein-deer, through which there have been several holes made of various sizes, and they first pass their wool through the largest, then through the next, and so on, till it be brought to the state they desire, and fit to cover the thread of the rein-deer, with which they cnament their dress and every thing they make. This thread, as I have already mentioned, is composed of sinews extracted from the rein- deer, which *^'>ey draw by fibres, and entwine them afterwards on the cheek, while they continue constantly to twist Uiem, and fi'om Ume to time to moisten them : this is the only method they make use of to make thread. All the harness of the rein-deer is likewise made by the women : this harness is composed of the skin of the deer ; the breast- leather is ornamented with a number of figures, made of woollen thread, from which several little bits of serge of all colours hang, which form a kind of fringe : the litdc bell is in the middle ; and there is nothing which gives vigour to this animal, or which gladdens it more, than the noise which it makes with his bell whilst travelling. As I have begun with speaking to you of the occupations of the females of this coun- try, I am naturally led to talk of the employments of the men. I shall now state, in general, that all the inhabitants of this country are naturally sluggish and lazy, and that nothing but hunger and necessity can chace them from their huts, and oblige them to labour. I should have concluded that this general vice arose from the climate, which is so cold that no one can easily expose himself to the air, had I not found that they arc equally lazy in summer as in winter ; but, in fact, as they are almost constantly neces- 188 REOVARD'S JOtrnVEY TO LAPLAKD, he. sitatcd to use exertions for their subsistence, they are nearly always engaged in hunting and fishing : they hunt during winter, and fish during the summer ; and make with their own hands all the instruments necessary for each of these employments. Their bosits are made of fir, and are joined together by the thread of the rein-deer, which makes them so light, that one person can easily carry one of them upon his shoulder. They require a cjuantity of these boats, in consequence of the number of cataracts which they fre- quently meet with ; and as they are unable to ascend these, they have in many places a boat on each side of them : they leave them on the bank of the river, after having drawn them to land, and put two or three stones into them, to prevent the wind from carry- ing them away. Some employ thread and cord to fasten them ; the thread is made of hemp, which they purchase from the merchants : they often rub it with a kind of red glue, which they make of the scales of fish dried in the air, for the purpose of strength- ening and rendering them le&s disposed to putrefaction. They make their cords of the bark of the birch-tree, or the root of the fir ; they are extremely strong when immersed in water. The men are continually employed in making sledges of all kinds ; some of them for the puqjose of conveying their persons, which are called pomes; and others for carrying the baggage, which arc called racdakeresy and are shut like coffers : they also make their bows and arrows. The bows are composed of two pieces of wood placed one above the other ; the lower one consist of burnt fir, and the other of birch ; these pieces are glued together, and covered throughout their whole length with a ver}' thin piece of bark of the birch-tree, which prevents one from perceiving that which it contains. Their arrows are of various kinds ; some are composed solely of wood, and are employed to kill, or rather to stun, the minevers, the ermines, and the martins, and other animals, whose skins they are desirous of preserving ; there are others cc vercd with the bone of the rein-deer, made in the shape of a harpoon, and long- pointed ; this arrrow is thick and heavy : the latter is employed against birds, and never comes out of the wound when it has once entered the body ; it also by its weight prevents the bird from flying, and carrying away with it the arrow and the hopes of the huntsman. A third kind is covered with iron, in the form of a lancet, and is employed against the large animals, such as the bears and the wild rein-deer ; and every arrow of this sort is placed in a little quiver, made of the bark of the birch-tree, which the huntsman carries m his girdle. In fact, the Laplanders are extremely expert at the use of the bow, and they oblige their children to engage in those practices, which several warlike nations in former times wished that they had done ; for they give them nothing to eat, till thejr have previously hit an object prepared for them, or have knocked down some mark, which has been placed for the purpose on the top of some high pine. All the household utensils are made by the men : their spoons are cut out from the bones of the rein-deer, and they adorn them with figures, in which they put a certain black composition. They make lids to their sacks also from the bone of the deer, and little baskets of bark and rushes, and likewise those planks which they employ in running upon the snow, and with which they pursue and catch the swiftest animals. The de- scription of these planks has been formerly given. But that which is truly remarkable is, that the men always perform the business of the kitchen, and that they prepare all the food they procure, whether in hunting or fish- ing ; the women never intermeddle with this part of their duty, except during the ab- sence of their husbands. We observed this immediately on our arrival, and the Laplander dressed some fresh sic/is which he had taken that day. This fish is somewhat larger than a herring, but incomparably better ; and indeed I never tasted fish more delicious than this. As soon HKONARD'S JOI'UNKV TO I.xn.ANI), L(. 189 as it was dressed they prc|;prcd the tabic, made of pieces of the Iwrk of the l/irch-trcc sewed together, and spread it iHK)n tlie ground. Tlie whole fiituily phicid ihiiusclvcs around it, with their legs crossed in the nianricrof the Turki, '.iiid every one l(K)k his share from the pot, which he placed either in his cap, or in a corner of his dress. Tlu ir drink is placed in a large wooden dish at their side, if in summer, and in v\ inter it is in a pot on the fire. Kvery one tiikes accordinj^ to his inclination his share of ihi- food, by means of a large wooden sp(X>n, luid drinks m the same manner according to his thirst. When the meal is finished, they strike their hands in token of friendship. The most ordinary ftxxl of the poor consists of fish ; and they throw some bruised bark of the pine in the water, which serves to dress them in the same manner as boiled meat. The richer individuals eat the flesh of the rein-deer which they have killed at Michaelmas, when thty arc fat. They sutler no part of this animal to be lost : they even preserve the blood of it in its bladder ; and when it has thickened and become hard, they cut it, and place it in the water which remains from the dressing of the fish. The marrow of the bones of the deer is considered with d)em a delicious morsel ; the tongue Is no less so ; and the limb of a male rein-dccr is one of their greatest delicacies. But although the flesh of the rein-deer be much esteemed among them, Uiat of the bear is incompa- rably more so : they make presents of it to their mistresses, which they accompany with that of the castor. They liave during the summer a ragout, which 1 tasted, and u'hich I thought would have killed me. 1 hey make use of certain little black fruit whicii grows in the woods, about the size of a gooseberry, which they call crokberfftt and which means raven's gooseberry. They put these along with the spawns of fish ii\ a dish, and mix the whole together, to the great torment of the stomachs of all those who see them, and who are not accustomed to such kinds of rrz^ot^^;, which however are considered by them as the most exquisite luxuries. When the meal is finished, the richer individuals take, by way of desert, a small piece of tobacco, which they draw from behind their ear ; thb is the place where they dry it, and they have no other box in which to preserve it : they then chew it, and when they have drawn all the juice from it, they place it again behind the car, where it acquires a new taste ; they still chew it once more, and replace it again in the same manner, and when it has lost all its strength, they smoke it. It is astonishing to see with what facility these people live without bread, and how aiixious they are at the same time about a paltry herb, which grows at such a distance from them. We interrogated our Laplander upon many subjects. We asked him what he had given his wife at their marriage : he told us that she had been very exiiensive to him during his courtship, having cost him two pounds weight of tobacco, and four or five pints of brandy ; that he had made a present of the skin of a rein-deer to his father-in- law ; and that his wife had brought with her five or six rein-deer, who had multiplied exceedingly during the forty years in which they had been married. Our conversation was enlivened with brandy, which we poured from time to time, by means of our entrea- ties, down the throats of this good man and his wife ; and the return of this pleasing practice became so frequent, that both began to feel the effects of it. They now ca- ressed each other, in the Lapland manner, as ardenUy as you can well imagine ; and their tenderness went so far that they began both of them to weep, as if they had lost all their rein-deer. The night passed away in the midst of these mutual endearments ; and we observed on this occasion, what I believe I have already told you, that the whole family sleeps on the same skin. This confusion is always prevalent among the Lap- landers ; and a husband not only lies with his wife on the first night of his marriage, but with all the family together. Next morning we each of us caused a deer to be killed, which cost us two crowns ' iy(j Itr.riNAHD'S JOl'HNKV TO LAIM.ANO, Ue. ill order to have its skin to carry to France. If I had returned by u direct road, I sliould Jiavc endeavoured to e;irry some live reiu'dcer alon(( with mc. Several individuals have in vain endeavoured to do so ; and last year three or four were conducted to Dantzic, where they died, not being able to live in such a climate, it being too hot for them. VVe dela\ed killing them till wc should visit the priest, when we could do it more con- veitientl) ; and after having taken two or three of those little collars which are employ- ed to guide these animals, and some others for the purjwse of securing them, we set out on our return, and made our rein-deer pass the river ; we arrived the same day, Saturday, at the residence of the priest of the Laplanders, where we hadstont inpiissing. No sooner had we arrived than we were anxious to kill our uninials. The Lmained too long on the sand. There are many who make a prosperous voyage, and who arrive safely in ix)rt, provided the wind has tieen favourable, and has excited no storm upon the water, ^vhich indeed would not require to be very violent, for the purpose of swallowing up these little structures. 1 his particularity might pass for a fable, had I not been convinced of it from my own experience. After having travelled a long time, we arrived at the hut of our Laplander, which was surrounded by a number of others belonging to his comrades. Here it was, that we learned the nature and condition of the Laplanders and Lapland. We resided three days among them, for the pur|X)se of observing all their manners, and of being informed respecting a number of particulars, wh'ch we could only learn from themselves. First, our sorcerer intended to fulfil his promise, we began to entertain some expectation of learning some of those things which we wished to know, when \ve observed that he had brought with him his tiibor, his hammer, and his index, which he drew from his breast, which served him instead of a pocket. He put himself in a condition to call the devil by his conjurations. Never did a person possessed place himself in so many different postures as our magician. He stnick his breast so rudely and so unmerci- fully, that the black wounds, with wl.xh it was covered, showed clearly that he was really in earnest. To these blow^ he added others, which were no less harsh, and which he gave himself with his hammer upon the face, so that the blood flowed from every part. His hair stood erect, his eyes turned, his whole countenance became blue, he suffered himself to fall several times in the fire, yet he was never able to tell those things which we demand ed. It is true, that even a perfect sorcerer would have found it difficult enough to give the satisfactory evidences which we inquired after. I wished ill 4 ' i-i; 102 liKC;N\RI)'» JOLTRNRV TO LAPLAND, kc. to have Honu' ccrtuin proof IVoin France, in proof of the miiuiion of his demon ; and thin wnii the Htunihliiif^lilock of all the sorcerers whom we had yet consulted. This person, who was cohHideied very expert ut iiis prolession, assured us, that he had formerly Ixrn ai)k' to do what we desired ; hut that his f^et^ius had never been farther than Stockholm, and that there were very few who could ^o farther ; and that the devil hejijan to leave him as he grew old, and lost his tec th. This |K*culiarity astonished me. I intpiired resjKctinn it nuire particularly, and 1 iniderstood that it was very true, and that the power of the most intelligent sorcerers decreased as they lost their teeth j ;"id I concluded, that, in order to be a j^ood sorcea-r, it wiw necessary to hold the devil by the teeth, and that he could only Ih: well f.iHtened in this manner. This man, ob- serving that wc drove him, by means of our questions, to extremities, promised that, with the aid of spirituous li(|Uors, he would tell us something; hurpri:,ing. He took, ai\d looked upon it several times, after having made n miniber of invocations and grimaces ; but he only told us very ordinary things, which one could very easily under- siiind without lx;ing a great s(jrcercr. All these circumstances led me to draw a con- clusion, which was a very just one, that all these people are more suiK-rstitious than s )rcerers ; that they easily believe the fables which are related to them respecting their ancestors, who, it is asserted, had a great intercourse with the devil. It may be true, sir, that there were, in rtalitv, some sorcerers among them in former times, when the Lsiplanders were buried in ihc errors of paganism ; but at present I believe it would be extremely diHicult to find one, who well understood his profession. When we saw that we could procure no information from o«ir Laplander, we amused ourselves with making him drunk ; and thi^ deprivation of reason, which continued three or four days, gave us an op|K)rtunity of stealing from him all his magical instruments : we took his tabor, his hamnur, and his index, which was composed of a numlx;r of rings, and several pieces of brass, which represented several infernal figures, or aome cluiractcrs tied together by a chain of the same metal ; and when, two or three days after, we were on the point of setting out. he came to us to demand all his articles, and in- quired particularly at every one, if he had not seen them. The answer we gave him was, that he could easily know, and that, if he was a sorcerer, he would find no difficulty in discovering who had them. Wc left these people, in order to visit others, that we might see and learn some- thing further of their manners. We entered first into a hut, where we found three or four women, one of whom was completely naked, and was giving suck to a little child, which was also in the same condition. 'I'hc cradle was at the end of the hut, hanging in the air ; it was made out of a hollow tree, and full of a fine moss, which supplied the place of linen, mattrass, and coverlid ; two small circular pieces of osier covered the upi^or part of the cradle, over which was placed a wretched piece of cloth. This naked woman, after having washed her child in a pot filled with hot water, placed it again in the (,radle ; and the dog, who was instructed how to rock the child, placed his two forefeet upon the radle, and gave it the same motion which a woman does. The divss of the woman differs very little from that of the male sex ; it is of the same valdmar, and the sash is lai^r; it is adorned with pieces of tin, which cover its whole breadth, and differs from that of the men in this respect, that the latter is only marked with pieces of the same metal, placed one after the other. At this sash a sheath, filled with a knife, hangs; the sheath is adorned with filaments o'. o ^^ter; there is also a purse, adorned in the same manner, in which they place a slct , to strike fire with, and all their most precious articles; this is also the place wh re ♦hvv hang their needles, attached to a piece of leather, and covered with a piece of br?s:<. vrhich ttr.«NAPn'9 joirnNRv to laplano. to. IIS i; and he hud farther liut the jniithcd ry true, teeth ; ic devil lun, ub' d thatf e tuok, ma uikI under- ' u con- us than iig their be true, /hen the it would we .saw es with or lour we took igs, and uiractcrs ftcr, we and in- 'ave him iiificulty n some- three or :le child, in ?'"& in piled the ered the lis naked again in his two PS. The he same :h cover he latter this sash ooATter; ro strike ivv hang which they push ovtr it. All these urticlcs are adorned on the lower side alv) with a lumilier ofbniss rings of various sizes, the nolte and sound of which umiisc them ixtrcmdy: and they believe that the^* omumeiits teml essentially to set oH" their natural Ixiiuty. But ncrnans, sir, whilst I am speaking of Ixuiuty, yoM will have tin; curiosity tr) iii(|uirc whether tliere are any haiidsonie Laplanders. 'I'n this (juestioii 1 will answr, th.tt nature, which has Ik'cii pleased to create mines of silver una other metals in the nortlurn regions, the most distant from thr sun, sports hcr. »he following particulars. They assured us in the first place, that in this country they were frequently exposed to winds, so impetuous, that they carried away every object that they encountered. The stmngest houses are unable to withstand them ; and they carry to such a distance eveii whole troops of beasts, when they are on the suir.mits of the mountains, that it frequently is unknown what has become of them. The hurricanes bring with them such Hi ? r, vol.. I. c c 194 RR(iNARD'S JOURNEY TO LAPLAm, Sec. n quantity of sand in sumnicr, from the coasts of Norway, that they lessen the view to such .. ''cgree as to render it mpossiblc to see two steps distant ; and in winter they drive such a quantity of snow, that they bury the huts, and whole flocks. Wlien the Laplanders are suddenly surprised on the road with one of these storms, they have no other means of defence than that of overturning their sledge over them, and remaining in this ix)sture as long as the storm continues : others retire into the cavities of mountams, with all that they can take along with them, and remain in these caves till the tempest, which continues sometimes-- eight or fifteen days, shall have wholly subsided. Of all the animals of Lapland, there are none so common as the rein-deer, whom I have already so particularly described. Nature, like a kind mother, hiu> provided for countries cold as those of the north, in giving them a number of animals fit for pro- viding them wiih furs, which ilefend them against the excessive rigours of winter, and which last for ages. Among those whose skins arc most esteemed for their warmth, those of the bear ^nd the wolf hold the first rank. The former animal is very common in the north ; the Laplanders call him king of the forest. Although the bear is generally of a red colour, yet some are nevertheless observed to be white ; and there is no animal against which the Laplander wages such a cruel warfare as this, in order that he may procure his skin and his flesh, which he reckons the most delicate of all food. I have sometimes eaten of it, but it appeared to my taste extremely insipid. The chace of the bear is the most solemn action of the Laplander ; nothing is more glorious among this people than to kill a bear, and they carry evidences of their having done so about with them : co that it is easy to see how many bears a Laplander has killed, by the hair of them which he carries in various places of his bonnet. He who has made the discovery of some bear goes to inform his companions ; and he whom they believe to be the greatest sorcerer plays upon the tabor, to learn whether the chace will be prosperous, and on what side the animal ought to be attacked. When this ceremony is over, they march against the animal ; he who knows the spot marches first, and leads the rest, until they arrive at the den of the bear. There they surprise him in the speediest manner they can ; and with arrows, lances, sticks, and firelocks, they kill I^'m. Whilst they iire attacking the animal, they all sing a song in these words : Kihelis pourra^ Kihelis iiscada soubijcellajeitti. They beg earnestly of the bear that he will do them no mischief, and that he will'not break the lances and other arms which they employ to destroy him. When they have killed him, they put the body into a sledge, to carry it to the hut ; and the rein-deer who has been employvd to remove it is exempted during the whole year from labour in this sledge ; and means are also taken to prevent him from approaching any female. They construct a hut for the express purpose of dressing the bear, which is employed in no other manner, and in which tlie huntsmen attend, with their wives, and begin again their songs of joy and of thanks to the animal, that they have been ;illowed to return in safety. After the meat has been dressed, it is divided between the men and the women. The latter are unable to eat any of the hind parts, hut always partake of the fore part. The whole day is passed in rejoicing ; but it deserves to be re- marked, that all those who have assisted in taking the bear must not approach their wives for three days, at the end of which they must bathe themselves, in order to be purified. I had- forgotten to observe, that when they have arrived with the bear near to the hut, they do not carry it in at the door, but cut it in pieces, and throw them in at the hole through which the smoke issues, in order that it may appear to have been sent and descended from Heaven. They do the same, when they return from the chace of other animals. There is nothing more estimable, in the opinion of a Laplander, 'than to assist at the death of a bear, and he glories in k all his life-time. The skin of a bear generally costs — ^. REGNARD'S JOURVF.Y TO LAPLAND, fcc. 1.95 The wolves are almost all of a witish gray colour ; there arc some of them white ; and the rein-deer has no enemy more determined than the wolf. It avoids the wolf by flight ; but when it is surprised by its adversary, it defendu itself with its fore feet, in which consists its chief strength, and with its horns, when they are strong enough to sustain the shock ; for the rein-deer cast tlieir horns every year, and when they art- new, they cannot be made use of. To prevent the wolves from attacking the rein-deer, the Laplanders tie them to some tree, and it seldom happens that they are attacked in that situation ; for the wolf, being a suspicious animal, is afraid lest there should be some snare laid for him, and ihiU this is employed as a bait to draw him thither. The skin of a wolf may be worth , and there are few persons, even the greatest nobles of Sweden, who do not wear dresses of its ftu' ; and there is no better tlefence against the cold. Foxes arc abundant in every part of Lapland ; they arc almost all white, although some are found of the ordinary colour. Those of a white colour are in little estima- tion; but sometimes those of a black colour are met with, and these are the rarest, and the most costly : their skins are sometimes sold for forty or fift}' crowns ; and the hair is so fine and so long, that it hangs from any sid<^ ; so that, in taking the skin by the tail, the hair falls by the side of the ears, and lies towards the head. All the princes of Muscovy and the noblci of this country seek with anxiety the fius of these skins : and, after those of the sable, they are the most esteemed. But as I have mentioned the sable, it is but proper that I should mention to you all that I know of it. That which we denominate sable, was formerly called Zahfil. This animal is the same size with a pole-cat, and differs from the martin, in being of a less size, and in having much longer and finer hair. The true sables are damasked with black, and are caught in Tartary and Muscovy ; very few of them are found in Lapland. The blacker the hair is, the morc is it sought after, and is sometimes worth sixty crowns, although its skin be no more than four fingers in breadth. Some of a white or gray colour have been met with ; and the grand duke of Muscovy has made presents of them to the king of Sweden by his ambassadors, as being skins exceedingly valuable. ., The martins approach nearer to the sable than any other animal, they imitate them pretty exactly in the fineness and length of their hair; but they are much larger. I have met with some as large as a cat, and there are few countries, in which they are more abundant than in Lapland. The skin is worth a rix-doUar, and those of them whose skin is of an ash-colour above the throat are in higher estimation than those who have it white in the same place. This animal makes a great havoc among the minevers of whom it is extremely fond, and seizes them in the chace, without great difficulty : it does not live solely on squirrels, but it hunts also after birds ; and mounting to the tops of trees, it waits till they are asleep, and then jumps upon them, and devours them. If they are nevertheless strong enough to fly, they abandon themselves to the air with the martin, whose claws are as strong and as sliarp as those of any other animal, and which maintains itself on the back of the bird, and bites it in its flight, till ac length the biixl falls down dead. This fall is ofu u equally fiital to the martm with the bird ; and when it has risen to a great height in the air, the mtu'tin frequently falls among rocks, where it b destroyed, and has no better fate than the other. I have spoken in another place of the joerts in Swedish, and gulones in Latin, when speaking of the rein-deer, whom they cut In two. This animal is alx)ut the size of a dog ; its colour is dark brown, and its skin is compared to those of the sables ; it is damasked, and very precious. -i, ,?:,:, -jr.! > • >■■ v - !«i«4.W- ■i-.f filJ- f. Jft ^ f 196 IIKG\A«1)'S JOlUNBr TO LAI'LAND. fcc. The quantity of ilsh is tlic reason why one meets with so many castors in Lapland (the Swedes call them haver) and they take great delight in those places, where no noise of the traveller disturbs tlieir repose. But the best place to find them is in the province of Kimi and in Russia. The kidney of this animal is employed in the cure of many diseases. Every body asserts that there is no greater specific against the plague ; and that, if it is taken every morning, it dispels the bad air : it is also said to t^ an ingredient in the most efficacious compositions. Olaus, chief priest of the province of Pitha, presented me with the half of one at Torno, ;ind assured me that he made use of nothing else for his best remedies ; he was well acquainted with pharmacy. He further assured me that he extracted an oil from the tail of the same animal, and that there wasi no remedy of more efficacy in the world. There are also in Lapland a very great number of ermines, which the Swedes de- nominate lekat. This animal is about the thickness of a lar^ rat, but twice as lon^. It does not always retain the same colour, for in summer it is somewhat red, and m winter it changes its hair, and becomes as white as we see it : its tail is equally long with its body, and it terminates in a little point black as ink, so much so, that it is diffi. cult to see an animal which is at the same time either blacker or whiter. The skin of an ermine costs four or five pence. The flesh of this animal smells disagreeably, and it lives upon minevers and mountain-rats. This last little animal, wholly unknown every where else, and very singular, as you shall see, is sometimes found in such abundance, that the earth is wholly covered with them. The Laplanders call it lemucat / it is of the size of a rat, but the colour is redder, marked with black ; and it seems as if it feU from Heaven, for it is never seen, except after great rain. These beasts do not flee I'rom the approaching traveller ; but, on the contrary, run to him with a great noise ; and when any one attacks them with a stick, or an^ other weapon, the^ turn upon him, and bite the stick, to which they continue hanging by the teeth, like litUe angry dogs. They fight with the dogs, whom they are not afraid of, and leap upon their backs, and bite them so severely, mat the dogs are obliged to roll themselves on the earth, to get rid of this little animal. It is even said that these animals are so warlike, that they sometimes declare war against each other, and that when the two armies arrive near to the place which they have chosen for the field of battle, they fight bitterly. The Lap- landers, who observe the quarrels of such small animaJs, conclude, that the battles of other individuals must be much more bloody ; and they think that Sweden has a good right to go to war with Denmark or Muscovy, who are her most mortal enemies. As these animals are warlike, they have also many enemies, who make considerable havoc among them. The rein-deer eat all those they can meet with. They are tlie most delicate food of the dogs ; but they never eat their hind parts. The foxes fill their dens with them, and lay up tnagazines of them for times of scarcity ; this vexes the Laplanders, who know when they have procured this food, ibr this prevents them from seeking food elsewhere, and from falling into the snares which have been laid for them. £ven the ermines fatten themselves on these animals. But that which is re- markable in this creature is, its sensibility of its approaching destruction. Foreseeing that it cannot live during winter, it retires to tlie top of a tree, between two forked branches, where great numbera are caught ; others of them, not relishing this kind of death, jump into lakes, where they are often in the body of the pike, newly swal- lowed ; and those of them, who do not wish to be the authors of their own destruction, and who patiently await theirdestination, perish in the earth, when the rains which, brought ihem into existence likewise deprive them of it. They chace a great number of hares. ■•^-n 'F ' .Vl' !i.ny, for we could understand nothing from his discourse ; and a short time after the burgo* master of the city, with an oflicer who was there in giirrison, came to take us in their boat across the water to the housi; of the deceased. On our arrival wc found the whole liouse filled with priests, habited in long elaiks, and hats, which appeared by their height to be columns employed to support soine licam of a house. The body of the deceased was deposited in a colHn, covered with cloth, and placed in the middle of them. They watered him with their tears, which trickled down their moistened beards, the separated hairs of vvhicli formed various channels, and distilled this sorrowful humour, which was employed instead of holy-water. All these priests had led their parishes, and had come from a great distance : some of them had travelled more than a hundred leagues ; and we werc assured that such is their regard for this ceremony, if it Md happened in winter, when the roads are in the best situation for travelling, there was no priest within two hundred leagues distance who would not have attended. The oldest delivered a funeral oration to all his assistants ; and he must surely have said something very affecting, since his mournful air had almost dntwn forth even our tears, who knew not a word he spoke. The women were in a little chambe/, separated from the men, and they groaned in a dreadful manner ; among others, tlie widow of the deceased interrupted by her sighs the discourse of the preacher. While this sermon was delivered here, another was preached in the: Finland tongue at the church ; and when the two discourses were ended, they set out to conduct the body to the church. Seven or eight respectable inhabitants car- ried him on their shoulders, and every one was anxious to lend their aid. This brought to my recollection what Vii^il says of the entrance of the horse into Troy, when he mentions that both young and old were anxious to lend their aid to draw that machine mto their city : Funemque manu coutingere gaudent. We followed the corpse like the chief mourners ; and the widow was afterwards conducted under the arms of two of her daughters, the one of whom grieved much, while the other seemed not at all affected. The body was placed in the middle of the church, while some psalms were sung; and the women, m passing by the deceased, threw themselves upon the coffin, and embraced him for the last time. Now commenced the grand and principal funeral oration, delivered by John IMantinus, priest of Uma, who received a dish made of silver for his trouble. I cannot say whether he merited it ; but I know that he cried much : and that to render every object more sad, he made himself hideous, in leaving his hair in disorder, and full of pieces of straw, which he had not had time to take out of it.^ This man related every occurrence in the life of the deceased, from his birth to his last sigh : he mentioned the places, and the masters whom he had served, the provinces which he had seen, and did not omit the minutest circumstance of his life. It is the custom in this country to deliver a funeral oration over lacqueys and servants, provided the relations are able to pay a crown to the orator. I attended through curiosity the funeral of a servant at Stockholm. The priest who delivered her funeral oration, after mentioning the place of her birth, and her relations, expatiated on the good qualities of the deceased, and exapj^rated highly her knowledge of kitchen-work, distributing his discourse into various divisions, according to the num- ber of ragouts Avhich she knew how to prepare ; and formed a part of his oration, 1^ I' 'I HF/lNAIin'S JOURNKY 10 LAPLAND, «tc. SOI telling them that she had only one fault, that of making every thinj^ too salt, and that she shewed by this conduct the regard slie had lor prudence, of which salt is the s) nibol, and her little regard for the things of this world, which she threw away in profusion. You may see by this, sir, that there arc few people, who may not give occasion to ii funeral speech, and furnish an orator with a wide field for the display of his elo terthan on this occasion ; for one can scarcely figure a more exact representation of the marriage at Cana, than the picture in which it was now represented to us, more beautiful and more natural than that of Paul Veronese. The tables were covered with strange, and, if I may use the expression, antique dishes ; for it had been at least eight days since they were dressed. Large pots, of different kinds, made for the most part like those v ' h were used at the sacrifices of the ancients, covered this table, and produced by tlieir number a confusion similar to that which took place at the banquets of the ancients. But what gave the finishing stroke to this picture was, the venerable ^r of all the priests, clothed in their beards, and the Finland dress of all the guests, which are as becoming as can well be imagined. There was among others a little old man, with short hair, a thick beard, and a bald forehead ; I do not believe that a more exact representation of the figure of Saint Peter could possibly be produced by the imagination of :my painter, Thb man wore a green robe, turned up with yellow, without any shape, and producing the effect of a drapery tied with a sash. I could not cease contemplating this man, who was the brother of the deceased. Whilst I was engaged in looking at this man, the rest were employed in more im|)ortant occupations, and were drinking to the honour of the defunct, and the prosperity of his family, ih an astonishing manner. The priests, like the best friends, drank the most copiously ; and after having toasted several healths, they came at length to kings and great men. They began (irst by drinking to the health of handsome girls, which is the custom throughout all Sweden, and from thence they rose to kings. These healths are drank out of vessels, the size of which is proportioned to the rank of these royal personages ; and to induce me to dnnk, they proposed the health of the king of France, in a vessel as much larger than the rest, as this monarch surpasses the other kings in power. It would have been a crime to refuse this toast ; I VOL. I. D d 303 RKONAnn's jornvEV to l\im.and. itc. i i { dratik it, and emptied the pot very cour.igeoiisly. It wits not likely that, as we were in Sweden, we should drink the king oil lanee's luitlth, and forget that of the king of Sweden ; it was tlurtlbre drank out of a vessel which was scarcely inferior in size to that of the other; and after having drank several healths out of it, every one was silent, to say prayers, it hap|K'ned, unluckily, th it ut this lime one of uur party said something witty, and obliged us to burst out into loud laughter, which continued so long, that the whole assembly, whose eyes were turned towards hin^ were extremely displeased: and what was still more vexing Wiis, that ;is every one was uncovead duritig the repast, on account of our iK-ing present, our hats had Ixen carried away ; so that we had no means of hiding the laugh, which we were unal)Ie to resist, and the more we endeavoured to stifle it, the more it burst out : on which account the priests, supposing that we made a jest oftheir religion, left the assembly, and were unwilling to return. VV^* were informed jy a little priest, who was more our friend than the rest, that they had determined to attack us on the subject of relig? i : however, we avoided talking with them on this sub- ject, antl we went to find them in another place, to which the con»|xiny had retired, for the purpose of smoking, whilst the servants cleared the tables : they brought, as a desert, fipes and tobacco, and all the priests drank and smoked till they fell under the table, n this manner it was that they watered the grave of John Tornaeus ; and thus the feast ended. Olaus Oraan, son-in-law of the deceased, endeavoured, as well as he was able, to conduct us to our lK)at, with his pit in his hand, but his legs failed him ; he was very near fulling into the river; and he was obliged tol)e carried home by two men. We believed that the whole ceremony was finished, when next morning Olaus Graan again made his appearance, followed by some other priests, who came to retjuest our attendance on the morrow. I assure you, sir, that this surprised me : I had never heard of a second day's feast, except at a maniage, and I did not suppose that it was the siunc with reganl to funerals. We were tiecessitated to resolve on a second attendance, and we had a conference widi Olaus Graan, during the i;appy interval he enjoyed between past and futurc drunkenness. This Olaus Graan, son-in law of the deceased, is priest of the province of Pitha, a learned man. or at least calling himself such, a geographer, chemist, surgeon, mathema- tician, and above all pluming himself on his knowledge of the French language, which he s|M)ke in a manner you may have some idea of from the following compliment he paid us ; " La grand ciel," he rejieated several times, " conserve vous et votre applicabilite, tout le temps que vous verrez vos gris cheveux." ' The great Heaven preserve you, and your applicability, every time that you look upon your gray hairs.' He shewed us two medals, the one of queen Christina, and the other a shekel of the Jews, which on one side represented the rod of Moses, and on the other a cup, from whence a kind of incense issued. Besides all his other qualifications, he pretended to possess a perfect knowledge of pharmacy ; and to convince us, he drew from several pockets a quantity of ix)xes of all sizes, and of cordials sufficient to fill an apotl^ecary's shop. He gave me a piece of the testicle of a castor, and assured me that he extracted an excellent oil from the tail of this animal, which was u-^eful in all kinds of diseases. When our con- versation was finished, wc were conducted to the place where we had been the day be- fore, where every one, to pay honour to the defunct, drank plentifully, and those who were able returned home. We remained at Torno, on our return from Lapland, eight days. Wednesday and Thursday were spent at the funeral ; Friday, Saturday and Sunday were only distin< guishcd by the frequent visits we received, when it was nece8s:iry to make every one drink. On Monday the burgo-master gave us a dinner ; and on Tuesday, at day-break, ^^ RF.r.KAim'S JOIRNRY TO LAPLANI), kc 203 Ctlt, the and , oil :ans d to :k' a ncd (1 to sub- for sert, iblc. Icaiit ablf, was • raan our leard >amc . • and vceii la, a ;ma- ^hich paid lilite, ^» you, 5|v ?wed % hich kind rrfect ntitjr gave lit oil con- rbc- vvho and istin- one reak, the wind bcinpf westerly, we set sail. The wind continued very go ing eaten any food, like ourselves, during the whole day, stopped on u sudden, and wc found it imjiossible to make them advance one step. Behold us then sorrowfully remaining in the middle of tlic wood, without having any thing in the world to cover us, except the bellies of our horses ; and one might do so without danger, for the poor animals were so fatigued, that they passed the night without stirring, and without eating, as well us their masters. Our only consolation was a good fire that we made, which warmed us a little; but nothing could l)C mori- amusing than to see us in this plight, all extremely sad and overcome, like men who had not eutcn for tvventy.four hours, and who languidly bowed dieir heads, to receive the rain which it pleased Heaven to pour down plentifully upon us. And what tended to make our ad- venture still more curious was, that next morning, by the break of day, we were no sooner on horseback, than we discovered, at a distance of about two gun-shots a little house, which we had so anxiously inquired after, and to which wc repaired to drink some milk. Misfortune is good for something, they say ; for this wandering enabled us to reach Cojx.rberyt the next day, which was Sunday, where we should not otherwise have arrived till the day after : wc discovered that town by means of the smoke which issued from it, and which resembled more the shop of Vulcan than any thing else : no- thing was to Ix; seen on every side but furnaces, fires, coals, and frightful cyclops. It is necessary to descend to the town through holes.* To give you an idea of the frightful- ness of it, thc}^ conducted us first into a chamber to change our clothes, where we took a stick shod with iron, to support us in the iiiosi dangerous places : we at length descend- ed to the mine, which is astonishingly wide and deep. We scarcely jjerceived the work, men, some of whom were raising stones, others throwing earth, and others making fires, to loosen the mine, and every one, in fact, at his separate employment. We descended this pit by a number of roads which led to it ; and we now began to find that we had as yet done nothing, and that this was only a beginning to more serious labours. Our guides lighted their flambeaux, which were scarcely sufficient to dispel the thick dark- ness which reigned in these subterraneous regions. One sees noihmg on every side, and that too by endangering the sight, but subjects of horror, by the aid of some glim- mering lights, which are only sufficient to enable one to distinguish them ; the smoke blinds, and the sulphur choaks one : add to this the noise of the hammers, and the view of these shades, these wretches, who are stark-naked, and black like devils, and you will Ix: of my opinion, that nothing can be a b^'tter representation of hell than this living picture, painted with the blackest and most sonbre pictures that can possibly be imagmed. We descended more than two leagues into the earth by frightful roads, sometimes on trembling ladders, sometimes on thin planks, and always in continual ap- prehensions. We observed on the road a number of pumps to raise the water, and very curious machines, which we had not leisure to examine ; we only saw numbers of those '»vretclies who wrought at the pumps. We penetrated to the very bottom with great diffi- * This description is preserved, though nearly a repetition. Hr.r.NARIt'N JOURNRY TO LAI'I.VNIJ. kt. i205 ii ctilty : but when wc lx'fi;aii to rc-iuicciKl, tin- sdlpliiir clioakcd lis tu such u digrc i\ that it wait aiUr incoiiccivuhlc pain that wc- regained thi* liritdcNCcnt : vvc wen- ul)lig(.d several tlnu-H to throw oiintc-lveit upon tlic etu-th, and our knecH iKMiig unahic to support us, wc were ohhgt-d to walk by the ii ssi .stance ut' our hundtt. We at length arrived, after diead< ful exertions, at the mouMi of the mine : here it Wiui Uiat we hcgim to hreuthe, in the same manner as a »oul drawn out of purgatory. A |)itiiil)lc object now prchcnted itself to our sight : they were currying away one of tiiose miserable wretches, who had Ixeii crushed by u little stone, which Uie fall from a gnat height hid rendered dangerouH. These |KK)r people cx|)0(»c their lives very lighUv : they receivi- sixj)ence a day ; and there are six or seven hundred men constanti} employed in this place. I know not whether wc have more reason to pity the loi of these wn-tches, who work in this infeniul place, or to cursjc the avarice of those men, who, for the pur|X)S(- of gratifying their liix> ury, tear out the bowels of ihc earth, confound the elements, and reverse the order of nature. JBoethius hud a good reason U) say, siK-aking of his own age, '* lieu ! primus quit fult illc Auri, ((ui pondcru iccti, GeiiiniUHque latere vulcntcH, PreUosa peiicuU fudit i" And Pliny tells us that the Romans, who hud more need of men thun gold, would not suffer those mines to lie opened which had been discovered in Italy. The Spani;uxls go to Guinea for wretches, whom they destine to labour at their rock of Potosi ; and there are some countries which send those thither whose crimes have merited death, and who continue to dig their graves their whole lives. In this mine of Co|x,'rberyture found native sulphur, blue and green vitriol, and octa« drons ; the latter are curious stones, naturally cut mto an octagon shape. We departed from this place the same day, to visit the silver mine at Salsberyt : we arrived there next day, which was Tuesday : its real name is Sula ; and its situation is one of the most Jkleasant in Sweden. Next day we went to the mine, which is a quarter of a mile distant irom it : this mine has three large mouths, like pits, of which it is im|X)ssible to sec the bottom ; the half of a tub, supported by a rope, is the only stair which leads to this abyss : the water makes this machine move in a curious manner ; it wheels about, and turns on both sides, for the purpose of ascending and descending. The imminence of the hazard can easily be conceived ; you are lialf in a tub, in which you have only one leg ; a satellite, black as a devil, with a flambeau in his hand, descends along with you, chaunting a mournful song, made on pur{X)sc for this descent. The mode of travelling is pleasant enough ; but one can scarcely he quite at ease here, when one sees one's self at the end of a rope, and remembers that one's life depends entirely on its strength, or its weakness. When we had reached the middle, we began to experience great cold, which, joined to the torrents which fell from all quarters, roused us from our Ictluirgy. We arrived at length, after half an hour's journey, at the bottom of the abyss : here our fears began to disperse ; we no more beheld any frightful objects : on the contrary, every object sparkled in these subterraneous regions ; and after having descended stiii fartlier, supported by extremely high ladders, we arrived at a saloon, which is at the bottom of tne mine, supported by columns of this precious metal : four spacious galle- ries next appeared ; ancl the light of the fires which bunied on all sides, and whicli sparkled on the vaults of silver, and a clear rivulet which flowed by their side, tended less to afford light to the workmen, than to render this the most magnificent abode which can well be imagined, and somewhat like the enchanted palaces of Pluto, which fe •■' 'i I* % '^ »! ARDt jntiNVrV TO I.APl.ANI), li«. 200 the jMJctii have placed in \\\v ciiitir of ihr earth, where she prcBcrvrs her treaviirit. Ill ilR-Ne )(allerie«i men of all ( ountries are eonsiaiitly to Ih IouikI, who lalMiiir hard to fiiKl that whieli ^ives so imich (ieii((ht to the rent oiinankind. Some draw eurriii^eiit some mil moikh; home arc dividing rockn ; and every oik- luisited in water, which runs constantly upon a plunk placed in a slopitifj^ direction, aiul which, carr) in(r oH the grosser |)articli s, le.ives the silver and the lead tx** hind at the bottom on a cloth. The third operation separates the silver from the lead, which falls to the lM)ttont in dross; and the tourih serves at length to bring it to |kt- fection, and to put it in a com'ition tit for the hamim r. One would not bU|)posc tluit so many o|H:rutions were neccssiiry to pnxluce a metal, which is only an excrement of the earth. The S|)aniards at Potosi do not give themselves the trouble of |KTforming all these operations, in order to purify their silver, as tlu-'v have discoveretl the method of cleaning it with c|uicksilver, which Ixringan enemy oi^ all the other metals, which it dc< stroys, except silver and gold, it separates them of all their grosser and earthy mutter, in order to unite itself entirely to them. Mercury is found in this mitie ; and this metal, though some refuse it the appellation because it is not malleable, is perhaps oiie of the rarest productions of nature ; for Ixiing liquid, und flowing of itself, it is the heaviest body in the world ; und it changes to the lightest, und is resolved into va|X)ur, which, encountering u solid substance, or a cold atmosphere, immediately becomes thick, and re-assumes its former f(»nn, without ony |X)SNibility of ever being destroyed. 'I'he (x'rsoii who conducted us in the mines afterwards shewed us, in her posse^ssion, a numlx:r of curious stones, which she collected from all quarters ; among others a large piece of thatsoR stone, which, instead of Ixing consumed by the fire, assumes u white colour, and which the Romans employ ed to burn the bodies of their dead. She had fouiKl it in this mine, and prescnttd each of us with a smull piece of it. We left this little town the same dny, to go to Upsal, where wc arrived early next morning. This is the most considerable town of all Sweden, both on account of its university und its situation ; it is to this place that all those who intend entering into holy orders are sent, from which profession ull the Swedish nobility are excluded ; for it is the policy of this country, lest the number of nobles should l)e diminished, to employ them more usefully otherwise. We saw the library, which contains nothing worthy of notice, except the codex argenteus manuscript, written in Gothic letters of silver, by a bishop called Ulphila, in Mesia, about the year 370, found at the destruction of the city of Prague, and brought away by count Ko'iingsmurk, who made a present of it to queen Christina. We went afterwards to the church, where we saw the tomb of Saint Eric, king of Sweden, who was beheaded. They gave us his head and his bones to touch, which are wholly preserved in a box of silver. We saw in a large chajxl, Ixhind the quire, the tomb of Gusiavus the First, and his two wives, one of wnom had in her hand a whip, on account of her cruelty. They shewed us in the vestry an ancient idol, called Thor, which the Swedes adored, and a very beautiful communion-cup, which nr.r.sAUD'it joiunky to i.api.ani). M- flU7 4J was ■ prcMrnt fmrn ruucit Chrintiiia. Thcrv nn* Hvvcrui kariKd imii lurn', niui, atnon^ oilu-ri, Kii(llHkiiis, a |ili\>i(:i.ui, ulio hat uritUii u very (iirintit hook, which he shtvvtd tit h'.iiiMir. 'V\\\s man nhcUN, I)) all that is coiitaitud in authors, hik h .ih lit-nxtutus, I'lato, l)i(Kt<>riiN ui Sicil), anil othcri, that tin* ^(mU caiiu' fn)in Ium ctNintry ; lie ((ivcN very htroii^ ruisoiin lor it : he {xrMia(Urted, arc paid to the king of Sweden : it is here where the rocks which surround Stockholm are first observed, and among which it is difficult to travel. Our boat was not yet there, but it arrived on the morrow at mid-day ; it came from Stettin, in Pomerania, which belongs to the king of Sweden, and vhich gave so much employnu nt, (hiring the late wars, to the troAnd tliere are also a much greater number of inhabitants. As for the ladies it is necessary to give them their due. I have never seen in ^y country a greater number of beauties; they are all very fair, and are extremely agreeable. The wives of Messrs. Mathias are "^tremely handsome, and especially the youngest, who might pass for a perfect beauty. 1 Wet)bserved the Polish dance, which is peculiar. The servants march before, i|id the masters follow; thev do scarcely any thing else but march. There are oxen in this country of a prodigious size ; they are brought fix)m Podo] which belongs to the Turks, or from the Ukraine, tlie best part of which belongs to thi also. This :^ rovince of the Ukraine is inhabited by the Cossacks. The soil is so good, tl it is suffict" t to sow seed in it once in three or four years; that which falls from the sic' in cuttin' ^s suiBcient to sow the crop; and those wlio wish to sow tliem a second ti gather .i the same manner. There are few finer countries. W J understood at Dantzic that M. de Betliunc was verj-^ much esteemed by the Polei am' extremely generous. At the election of the present king of Poland, not one gener of Lithuania op^iosed his coronation; but the rest wbhed for the prince of Lorraine, that of Neuboui^. The prince of Lorraine married a princess Mary, dowager queen Poland; but he was not supported by France. The king, Michael Coribut W*isnowischy, was chosen king as if it had proceeded fi«c;n| the vexation of those, who could not agree before the election. He received a pensioni of five thousand livres from the queen for his subsistence. He died very opportunely ; for! the Poles were deliberating about his deposition. His funeral obsequies were jjerformed at the same time with those of king Casimir, who died at Paris. HKiiNiUtU'S JOURNEY TO LAI'LANU. kf. •211 of he :;tt| The prince of Conde has several times in the diets been proposed as king; Ijiit th( Poles arc too much afraid of him: they are extremely apprehensive that he would Ix- desirous of encroaching on the liberties of Poland, of which they are extremely jealous. Count St. Paul died two diiys too soon, and was deprived of the pleasure of seeing himself king. He had been chosen by common consent ; but Heaven ordained otherwise. The Poles made some scruples about crowning the queen, because the dowager was still alive, and wi^d to relieve the state, which was unable to support two queens ; but the king had taken his measures with such prudence, that she was crowned a short time after him. The starosties are the governments of a province ; the king gives them to the gentlc- bien, and cannot deprive them of them. The cities send deputies to the diets, which the king assembles when he pleases; and the most insignificant of these gentlemen, or of these envoys, can put an end to a diet ; for there is a law in Poland, by which it is enacted, that their afHiirs must be decided, non pluralitate votorum, sed nemine contradicente, * not by a plurality of voices, but b)- unanimous consent.* The wayvodes, or palatinates, are larger than the starosties ; they are subdivided into starosties. The palatinate of M. Vaubrenic, called Boncosci, was injured by a Polish gentleman» who abandoned it, and was received and brought to France by him. Madame, the marchioness of Bressoi, his aunt, was expelled frqm the court, and obliged to leave the city by the intrigues of the qr een, who dreaded the king's engagements, and felt some pangs of jealousy. The story adds, that it was Seinkamer, called the Wolget. We saw, on the dav of our departure, the great Hevelius, professor of astronomy, one of the learned men of the age, ^vho received pensions from a number of princes, and, particularly, from his most christian majesty. This man shewed us all the works which the fire had spared. He related to us, with tears in his eyes, the loss he had sustained by a dreadfiil fire which had happened two years ago, had consumed more than forty houses, and which unfortunately had begun with his. This great man has continued to labour, night and day, for nearly fifty years. At night he is employed in observing the stars from the top of his house, with glasses more than a hundred and eighty feet in length; and during t^e Jay he reduces to writing what he had observed the preceding night. Among several other learned subjects on which he entertained us, we learnt that he was of the same opinion with Copernicus; and he told us that it was perfecdy absurd to believe that the heavens turned round the earth, and he supported his assertion by several demonstrations, by which we were con- vinced ; he shewed us, on this subject, a terrestrial and celestial globe, which proved In a surprising manner that which he told us ; he mentioned, as one of his strongest reasons, that he always remarked at one time the same distance betwixt the earth and the fixed st»^, which are attached, as well as the sun, to the firmament ; and that at another he found that it was much more distant from them; which convinced him that the motion was in the earth, and not in the heavens ; and on this subject, we having told him that this opiiuon was condemned among us as heretical, he told us that Father , confessor of his holiness, had written to him on this subject, and pointed out to him that the church condemned this opinion, till it was proved ; but, so soon as any one hud demonstrated it to be true beyond a doubt, he would then find no difficulty in adopting the more probable opinion. In the observation which he made at first upon this motion of the earth, and upon thb nearness and distance from the stars, he thought he had been mistaken, as he told us, in hb calculation; but h»ving, durini^ £ E 2 fe l;'2li)K V 212 REONARIVS JOURNEY TO LAI'LAND, &.O. a lapse of fifly successive years, made the same observation, he had now no doubt of the truth of his opinion. He also told us that he had dbcovcred the libration of the moon, which no person before him had been acquainted with, and the knowlcdgje of whi^^h had been of great use to him in all his works, tnc number of which exceeds all belief. He has dedicated them to almost every prince in the world, and the volumes are full of plates made with his own hand : he shewed us them all, besides fifteen large volumes, as thick as the lives of the saints, full of letters, which the most learned men of the whole world had written to him on various subjects. The moon is a round body, full of depressions and elevations. He has drawn a chart of it several times, and has given particular names to the mountains and remarkable places which he has observed ; not that there is any water in the moon, but a certain kind of matter, which has the same apjpearance with water. He is at present constructing a glol)c of a spherical form, in which he intends to shew all the scientific discoveries which have been made during more than fifty years : he is assisted by the king, to whom he intends to dedicate his perfonnance. He shewed us the most beautiful geometrical instruments that I have ever seen, and a piece of amber, on which, as soon as it was drawn from the sea, he imprinted himself the impression of a seal, whilst it was stili sufficiently soft to receive it ; for the moment it has been exposed to the air it becomes hard, as we observe it. The marquis of Brandenburg has made a present to the emperor of a chair of am- ber, which is said to be the greatest curiosity in the world ; and to the dauphin, a mirror of it, which is considered a master-piece. This prince is certainly the most powerfdl of all Germvars, and who necessarily diverted the attention of the emperor. The duke of Transylvania is chosen by the states of the country, and is confirmed by the grand Turk, to whom he pays tribute. He swears, on his arrival at supreme power, to maintain in the country the free exercise of five religions, which are, the Roman-catholic, the Greek, the Lutheran, the Calvinistic, and the Anabaptist. He receives tribute from the princes of Moldavia and Wallachia. ... ^ V tA • RKOVARD'S JOtUNKY TO I,Al•LA^n), he. 213 The late prince of Transylvania was called Ragotski, of the klncdom of Hungary ; and his predecessor was BeUiltm Cabor, who married Catherine of Brandenburgh. We set out from Dantzic for Warsaw on Wednesday the twenty-ninth of October, in a little covered chariot, which we hired for four-and-twcnty crowns, current money of the country, which amount to about twenty French livres. On our departure \\c passed through a very large suburb, a German mile in length, which is called Schotland. The road is very fine, the country very good, and the inns very wretched ; but one does not observe this wretchedness, because it is the custom in Poland for travellers to carry every necessary iilong widi them, even their beds ; for in the inns nothing is to be found but what one carries. This custom has its advantages and its disadvantages ; one disadvantage is, that it becomes necessary for one to carry a great equipage ; but it has this advantage, that one always has something good to eat, and that one always sleeps in one's own bed ; which is undoubtedly a great convenience for a traveller, who is very happy at enjoying repose at night, after the fatigues of the day : this consideration alone is sufficient to make one support the toil of a journey. The reason why nothing is to be met with in Poland is, that the gentlemen take every thing from the peasant, and pay him most frequently with stripes. All the pea- sants are bom slaves ; and so great is the power of the lords of the soil, that it extends even to the jurisdiction over life and death ; and when a gentleman has killed one of his peasants, he is acquitted by paying , which amounts to about seven francs of our money ; and this sum is employed to bury him. • The lands are not sold according to their value, but the number of peasants which are upon them : they are obliged to work five days in the week for their master, and the sixth for themselves and their families, who are more wretched than it is possible to express. It frequently happens that the lords, having need of money, sell to their slaves their liberty for a certain sum of money; but without this they are not permitted to remove their habitations : and a peasant who should be found in flight would undoubt- edly be massacred by his master. This dominion extends over the women, as well as the men, and even somewhat further; and if the peasant has a handsome daughter, the gentle- man does not fail to take the privilege of the lord of the soil. We passed through Graudentz, a city situated on the Vistula, which is a magazine of the grain which is carried down this river to Dantzic and Culm, where we attended mass, in a very fine church, on Toussmnt's day ; and we arrived at Thorn, a city finely situated, which for this reason is called Die Schenste, the handsomest. Thorn is a free city, under the protection of the king of Poland, like Dantzic, and it is the capital of Prussia-royal ; it is almost in the middle of the distance betwixt Dantzic and Warsaw. The government is almost like that of Dantzic, except that the four burgomasters are changed every year, fifteen days before Easter, on the Sunday of Judica. These four burgomasters are elected ; but the burgrave, who is the chief, is appointed by the king of Poland. We went to see the town-house, which is very mag- nificent ; and in the magistrates' hall are portraits of the kings of Poland, from Casimir the Fourth, who reigned forty-five years. To him succeeded John Albertus, who sat on the throne eight years ; and was followed by Alexander, who reigned five years ; and after him Sigismond the First remained on the throne forty-one years : Sigismond Augustus was next elected, who remained king four and twenty years ; but his successor, Henry the Third, who was afterwards king of France, reigned only three months. Thb prince received two crowns, and had for his motto, Manet ultima coelo; but others changed coelo to claustro. Afler him came Stephen, who reigned six years ; and Sigis- mond the Third, king of Sweden and Poland, succeeded him. The former kingdom -m 214 iiRONAun's joruNKv ro i,\i>i.ANn, do. was snutchcil IVom him by Cliarks the Ninth, his uncle, whilst he was in Poland. This prince was chosen kin^ ol" Sweden, and engajjcd at his election to live every fifth year at Stockholm ; hut being unable to keep his i)romisc, on account of the continual wars in which he was engaged with Uie Turks, the Tartars, and the Muscovites, he deter* mined to send them a senate, composed of forty Jesuits, A\o should rc|>rcsent his court : this senate was received at Dantzic widi great magnificence, and emlxtrked for Stock> holm ; but intelligence of their departure being received at Stockholm, the council assembled, in which Charles, the king's uncle, presided, who dissuaded the Swedes from receiving a government of priests ; and the vessel containing them having arrived in the road, he went in a twenty-gun vessel, imder pretence of receiving them ; and having given a siilute rather too rough to the vessel containing the hol;^ brotlierhood, he drove It td the bottom, without attempting to save any Jesuit, whom he jeered, in crying to them. Perform now your miracles, as in Japan, when you walked on the water. Sigismond in Uiis manner lost his crown of Sweden, which his uncle acquired ; who, knowing well that there was no better means of exciting a war than under the pretext of religion, explled all the Roman-catholic priests, aiul established the Lutherans in their stead. He was engaged in a war with his nephew in 1604, which continued two years ; but the king of Poland was unable to undertake any attempt of consequence, from the attention which it became necessary to pay to tlie Tartars, who pressed him strongly on the other side. This did not prevent the kings of Poland, after Sigismond the Third, from taking the title of kings of Sweden, until the time of John Casimir, at the last pacification, w^ieh took place at Oliva, near Dantzic ; where it was ordained that John Casimir, being the last of his family, should condescend to enjoy this title only during his life-time, in his intercourse with all the princes of the world who sliould ^ve him this title, except the Swedes. Sigismond had two sons, both of whom succeeded to the throne : the eldest was Uladislas the Fourth, who reigned fifteen years. It was during this reign that the cele- brated entry of the Poles into Parb, to demand the princess Mary for their queen, took place. Uladislas being dead, his brother Casimir was chosen in his stead, who married his brother's widow, and reigned sixteen years, at the end of which he resigned the crown, and retired to pass the remainder of his days in France, where he died. To him succeeded Michael Coribet Wesnowischy : this prince was too good ; and his nobles despised him to such a degree, that they put it into his head to retire into a convent, wluch he would have done, if death had not prevented him. The queen agreed to it, because she was to have been married to count St. Paul, whom the majority wished to raise to the throne. It was under him that Sobieski, who at that time was only grand marshal, gained the famous batde of Cochin, in the Ukraine, between the Niester and the Pruth. The Turks were encamped and well entrenched under a fortress; and the Poles, being about eighty thousand men strong, having passed the Niester on Sunday, encamped the following days almost within sight of the Turks. ThursdM^ and Friday verc s{)ent in making some skirmishes, and on the evening of this day the roles charged the enemy. This attack continued the whole night, and on Saturday morning the de- feat commenced, and continued only two hours, during which more than eight-and- tliirty thousand Turks were killed, vnthcut giving quarter to a single individual. Hus- sahi Pacha, who commanded the Turkish army, wim great difficulty saved himself, with two thousand men, who alone remained of the whole army, which amounted to more timn forty thousand men, and which by flight avoided the fate of their companions. The booty was great, and it was wholly given up to the soldiers, except the tent of UK(*.N\RI)'S .lOl.'UNRY lO LAPLAND, &c. ai5 Hussain, which was catx:fully preserved, and sent as a present to the king. Nothing could be more superb than this tent : it had more the appearance of a city than a pavilion of war, and all the officers were lodged in it. Hussain Pacha repassed the river with near six thousand men ; but the bridge fell when the whole army was upon it, and more than four tiiousand men were drowned, without any relief to those who experienced the cruelty of the waves, excqit that of lx;ing cut to pieces by their enemies. The king Michael received this intelligence with great joy, and Uiis caused his death, which hapjiened eight days after. There were great tactions after his death, as always happens in Poland on similar occasions. Sobicski was then grand marshal, and genenil in chief, and he made the whole army swear before he left them, that they would give their votes for the prince, although at that time he was not beloved Ijy the lesser nobles. M. de Beauvais was sent fixim France ; and whether it was not the interest of France that the prince should liecome king, or that he found too many obstacles among the nobilit}-, he made before die assembled senate one of the finest speeches ever delivered, telling the republic Uiat both in gratitude for past services, and in the hope of those which might in future be received, no flection could be so favourable to the public good as that of Sobi. cski, who in consequence was chosen king, and afterwards crowned at Crackow, under tlie name of John the Third. The dowager of king Michael has since been married to the prince of Lorraine, who has more influence than any other at the court of Poland, if the intrigues of France had been less powerful, and if it had not been wholly her interest to prevent this prince from arriving at the throne, since by this new acquisition of |X)wer he might have been enabled to undertake some enterprise against France, for the recovery of his duchy. Although Poland be united to France by friendship, without having much intercourse \wth her, it is more her interest to remain on good terms with the emperor, whose growing strength in Hungary is alarming. It was made apparent two years ago that tlie Poles were not ignorant of this maxim, when M. de Bethune was at that court, for the purpose of fomenting the rebellion of the Cossacks, both by means of men and money. The queen ordered the recruits which M. de Bethune was sending off to the rebels to be arrested, near the Hungarian mountains, by tlie Palatine of Russia, bv which she evinced that Poland had no concern with what passed in that quarter, and that the whole proceeding originated with the court of France, which, for want of money, allowed the troops commanded by M. de Guenegaut to be disbanded. These troops were com- posed of some Frenchmen, Tartars, but the greatest part were rebels, who, finding that It had been more than two years since they had received any pa^, they mutinied against their generals, whom they attacked and arrested prisoners in a village, where they wished to massacre them. This conduct of the palatine of Russia, ordered by the queen, produced a great alte- ration in the mind of M. de Bethune, who was a considerable time without attending the court, which was also the case with madame the marchioness, who could not remain on good terms with the queen. M. de Bethune did not wish well the more Fjr this action to die palatine of Russia, under-genen\l of the crown, and in some degree put him at defiance, by telling him, if they were each of them at the head of five hundred horse, it would be seen who was superior : however, they afterwards became friends, and the palatine after- wards made a present of a fine Turkish horse to M. de Bethune. M. de Bethune was extremely popular in Poland : no man ever sustained his cha- racter better in that country than him ; he always kept open table, and had more than a hundred persons in his house: he lodged at the Cassimerian palace, built by the prin- ce^ Mary. >, , .; : , ,, . n 216 imCiNARU'S JOUHNKY TO l-AI'LAND, he. i Tht; diets arc hcU once in three years; two are held in Warsaw, and one at Cirodno, or Wilna, the two most resiKctablc cities of Lithuania. This province has the siime officers with Poland, and ^-nenil Spas is commander in chief in Lithiumia. It is said in the country, that it might so haj)pcn that the Lithuanians might choose a king; they sec themselves despised by the Poles, and even by the king, who has not the same regard for them as for his other subjects: it is feared that they may put themselves under tlie protection of Muscovy-. They cry out for war in every diet ; but they, as well as the Poles, are in no condition to carry it on. When war is declared, you see all the litde gentry on horseback attendii>g the army : they remain as long as their provisions last, which consist of a great number of little cheeses, hard as wood, a kitt ol butter, and something else of that nature ; and when this is consumed, and they have eaten the price of their horses, they return home, and are thus in a very poor state for continuing the ^var. The last diet was held last year, and \vas broken up by a little gentleman, who was of a different opinion from the rest. It was at that tjme that the affair res|)ecting the ambassadors took place, who returning from the castle were insulted by some Poles, who had endeavoured to seize the sword of a page : he drew his sword ; but some gentlemen having alighted from their chariots, among others the marquis of Janson, the whole was api)eased. The Poles departed for assistance, and returned with nearly three hundred persons, to fall once more u|xjn the attendants of the ambassadors, with hazel sticks anJ cudgels, crying, Zal/i, zabiy fransleute ; tue, tue. The attendants alighted from the chariot, and went into the residence of the palatine of Russia, where they defended them- selves as well as they were able against this multitude, whom the presence of the ambas- sadors was unable to overawe, and which could not prevent several gentlemen from being wounded, and some remained apparently dead on the spot. The king came next morning incognito to the ambassadors, who lodged at the Holy Cross with the fathers of the mission, to settle matters: the palatine of Russia came thither also, and offered to put all his people into the hands of the ambassadors, to treat them as they thought proper. Envoys are sent from all parts to these diets : some were there from Persia, Turkey, and Muscovy. The Muscovite was conducted in the chariot of the grand marshal, drawn by die king's horses. The Turk was there, on account of the limits which he had established v/ith near thirty thousand men seven leases from Leopdd, according to his inclin ' lion, for they were m no condition to contest with him. Thb gave great vexation to many individuals who had property in that quarter, who however re- ceived promises of being otherwise recompensed. This is a pretty good ^vay of establish- ingboundaries, at the head of an army. The first office belonging to the crown is that of general, which is possessed by prince Nitre, nephew of the king, although older. ' / ' \n- The second is that of grand marshal, possessed by Lubomirsky. ^' The palatine of Russia is under-general. The chevalier Lubomirsky is grand ensign, and M. de Morstain is great treasurer of the kingdom, without being obliged to give any account : he is immensely rich, although it is not yet eight years since his circumstances were very straitened. All these offices are sold by the possessors of them; but if they happen to become vacant by death, the king disposes of them. The archbishop of Gnesne, who is at present ■ , is primate, and first prince of the kingdom, bom a legate, and governs the whole country during the interregnum, which continues a year. The money is marked with his image. There is almost no other kingdom in Europe, except Poland, which is elective. The ^ i i ft Kkir.NARU'g JUl'KVKY TO I.A)'LANU. &e. 317 The Icings proposed at the last diet that they should recognise his Hon as his Huccessor ; but the Poles suid that they could only rccogiiise him ns son of the grnnd nuirsluil, his iathir filling that office when he was tx)rn. The troops are raised and paid at the cxpence of the republic, wliich supports only five or six thous:md men, for the purpose of protecting the fmntiers from the mcursions of the Tartars. They have some regiments of hussars, who arc men armed in a vcr}' particular manner. To equip one of these hussars costs more than two thousand livres : they have large horses, and carry a tiger's skin upon their shoulders, a quiver and arrows liehind their ImcIc, a coat of mail upon their head, a sabre, pistols, and a cutlass. The servants of these men precede the sipiadron on horseback, with a lance in their hand; and it is very singular that these i)eoplc have wings fixed to their backs : they rush occasionally into the midst of their enemies, and frighten their horses, who arc accustomed to these visions, and make wa)- for their masters, who closely follow them. The republic has also some Tartars whom it sup- ports in time of peace, who arc, like the Swiss, willing to hire themselves out to those who will pay them : these' are in other res|iccts the worst troops in the world : the y shewed clearly that their horses were better than themselves, when, observing the Swedes passing the Vistula, they chose rather to avoid than to await them, and left king Casimir, who had only leisure to help the queen into her chariot, and who saw from his resi- dence the Swedes pass the nver, and enter into Warsaw ; and, on the other hand, ob- served the Poles and the Tartars flying swifter than the wind. They ravaged the whole city, conducted by Gustavus Charles, father of the present king, who gave a wished-for permission to his soldiers to carry away the beautiful column at the entrance of the giUe of Warsaw, provided they removed it without breaking it. In the last diet it was resolved that no candles should be lighted there, to prevent those who slept from being seen ; for it often happens that as the Poles go to the diet at three or four o'clock, after dinner, when they have drank too freely, others took the opportunity of passung some resolutions, while they knew those who were of an opposite opmion were asleep, and which consequently passed unanimously : it is on this account that they have been anxious to banish light from their assembly, that the confusion in it may be increased, if indeed it could be greater, and that those who slept might not be observed. Warsaw is in Mazovia, the capital of U[)per Poland, and is the place where the diets are held every three years. This city is situated upon the Vistula, which comes from Cracow, and on which a great quanti^f of commodities are conveyed from Hungary, and chiefly wine, the most excellent which can possibly be drunk. It contains nothing worthy of observation, except the statue of Sigismond the Third, erected by his son Uladislas, which is placed at the entrance of the gate, on a pillar of jasper, at which the Swedes fired several cannon : the gilding of the figure ''■,. deeper than tne thickness of a ducat. The city is very dirty and very small, and, properly speaking, consists solely of the great square, in the middle of which the town-house is situated, and around it there ;ire numbers of shops kept by Armenians, very richly furnished with stuffs and merchan- dise, in the Turkish manner, such as bows, arrows, quivers, sabres, carpets, knives, and others : here they have a great number of churches and convents. We saw the Cassi. merian palace, built by the late queen, which is at present so much neglected, that every part of It is falling to decay : we saw there several of those chairs, by means of which they ascend and descend from one chamber to another. It was from this palace that the queen beh**''' the Swedes pass over the river, which washes the feet of the walls ; and It was !.ere where M. Bethune dwelt. We went to pay a vbit to M. Lubomirsky, grand marshal, who is one of the richest VOL. I. F F 1 1 y 111 :218 RRC.NAHD'ft .fOtnSF.V T«) I.AIM.AND, lie. princes of Poland. His futhtr wan generalissimo, and entertained great jealousy of rotosky, another genenil : however they (xxamc friends in ct.n!iemience of the marriage which Lubomirsky hrouj^ht alxjut iKtwixthis son and Potosky's daughter : she is dead, and this prince has since married the daughter of the great chamberiani. Luijomiriky, his father, took up armsag/mst his king, and defeated his troops several times : he was accused of favounng Austria in the approaching election, and of assiutirig the great party of the confederation. This nobleman shewed us his whole house with great condescension; he purchtuicd it tivc or six years ago, and had an excellent bargain of it ; it is called Jcsdoua, and is only about a cannon-shot distant from the city. This prince is constantly building in his garden hermitages and baths, which arc very Ixautitul. His palace is full of a great number of very beautiful originals, which he has collected ut a great cxpcnce. His gallery is very curious: he she\ved us a large piece of mechanism, which he nad received from the neighbourhood of Augsburg, which contained a f )o k, a chime of bells, a per- petual motion, and a number of other things ; the whole was made in the form of a large cabinet of silver. He shewed us the spot on which his grandfather had gained the battle over the Turks at Choczim, where Osman was present, and where sevend thousand of the enemy were left on the field of battle. This place is favourable to the Poles ; they have gained two signal victories on it, and especially the last, which tended not a little to the peace which succeeded. VVe went to the castle, which contains nothing beautiful, except the chambers of the senate, and that of marble, where the taking of Smolensko by the Poles from the Mus- covites is painted, and where they killed great numbers, and took two sons of the grand duke prisoners, whom they brought to Warsaw, where they died; and a nhapel was built for them, which is still called the Chapel of the Muscovites, and is situated ^le- fore the place where we lodged. There is in the castle some very fine tapestry, wrought with gold, which was brougnt from France by king Henry ; a part of it was pledged to the inhabitants of Dantzic by Casimir, to induce them to relieve the necessities of the state. The palace of M. Morstain, grand-treastirer of the kingdom, is the most magnificent of all, both with regard to the fine effect of the structure, and the richness of the fur- niture wi»h which it is adorned. This nobleman received us with all possible affability ; he shewed us all the apartments of his palace, and a number of pictures in his gallery. \Vc saluted die treasurer's lady, who is a native of Scotland, wnom we met with at general Beam's, who served in the French army in Hungary. M. Morstain has pur- chased from the Marquis de Vitri the territory of Montrogue, in France. He pretends that his son, who is called M. de Chateau- Villain, and whom the queen in derision de- nominates Litde- Villain, will rtt^iain in France, and possess all his property there ; and what remains in Poland is to be the property of his grand-daughter, who is now mar- riageable. ^ He requested us to take a repast with him. The house of the palatine of Lublin is also to be seen. General Spas is cliief general of Lithuania : he made a strenuous opposition to the election of Sobieski ; but it was carried by means of money. It is prohibited under severe penalties to draw a sword during the diets, and to fight any where in Poland within three leagues of the king and the grand marshal. M. de Beauvais only proposed in his harangue the prince of Noubourg to be elected, and did not give himself much concern who w.i3 king, provided it was not the prince of Lorraine. The election of the king takes place in the country, where they erect a wooden structure. A circumstance took place at the coronation of the present king. HKGMAKII^it JOCKNr.Y TO LAI'I.ANU. Ac Ji«* mar- which never liai>|K'i)cd iKforc, aiul which will prolialilv iitvt-r hapiKii a^aiii, which was, that ihi- kiiiKtbllowcd tlic Ixxtics oi' two othiTH, k\\\\^ NlichacI uiui king Cuhiinir, tu thf grave. TIk- coronation takes plate at Cnu ow. King Michael had a little soul ; he took pkaNure only in procuring iinngenand watches; and tx.'(|uesting iVom the oueenone duy u watch, he told her he wished to make hutton^i uf it to his waiitteoat. When he vvus elected, the queen settled a |K.n!iion on him of tivc Uionsand livres ; M. Seryeant lent him a third part of it. TIk- 1*oIch are extremely proud, and plume themselves highly up<»" their noliility, the greater part of whom are obliged to till the ground, so wretched is their condition. A petty nobleman wears his sabre w hile proceeding to cidlivate the ground, and lays it down beside some tree ; and if atu one passing would refuse him the ajipellation ol Mouchc-Panier, and itimply call hnn Panier, which is e(|uivalent to Mr. he would be treated very roughly. In other respects they arc very civil, and are always the first to put their hands to their hat: they aa* great observers of fasts, and practise more abstinence than is demanded of them. Some Poles eat no flesh on Monday and Wednesday ; on Friday almost no- body eats butter; and on Saturday they eat nothing boiled, but take Uiat which haslK-en roasted. This devotion extends towards all the animals ; and our valet having one Satur- day given some fat to a dog, our hostess wished to pimi^h him, thinking she wa^i perform. ing a meritorious action. The Poles lay out considerable sums on their interments, and delay them a long while, from motives of magnificence. There are great lords, who are not interred for five or six years after their death, and who are deposited in heated chapels, which cost hirge sums. On the day of interment they cause armed men to enter, like the ancient chevaliers, who come, as if on horseback, into the church, and run to break their lance at the foot of the cofHn. The house of the fathers of the mission, where the ambassiidors lodge, is veiy large. They built a church, called Holy Cross ; but it remains there till some gofxl man finish with his |K*nce that which the fathers have begun. They were established with the re- ligious of St. Mar^ by the late queen ; they are very rich, and the bishop of Cracow is at present e«tabhshing them in nis diocese : the superior was not there, but we saw father Mumasan. The rebels of Hungary have revolted, on account of religion, against the emperor, who wished to deprive them of liberty of conscience. Michael Apaflei is prince of Transylvania : he swears, at his accession to power, to maintain four religions in his states. The greatest pleasure of this prince consists in drinking, and whoever is able to do so, is sure to make his fortune in his service. The capital of Transylvania is Cuisvar. The )roung prince, six or seven years old, is educated in the disposition of his father, and carries always a bottle at his side, in the form of a bandoleer. M. Acakias was a long time the resident in this country ; at present it is M. du Verdet. The chevalier de Bourges, who lefl it with M, Acakiaii, but who, being sick, stopt at Leopold, assured us that he had, in a feast which he gave to the resident, taken the hair of a slave, and having passed a stick across, he took pleasure, for the purpose of diverting the company, to make him swing during the whole repast : he afterwards oblijged him to run quite naked eighteen leagues, at the side of the chariot of the princess Telechi ; this is the wife of the minister of state, through whose hands every tiling passes. The prince does not open even a single letter, and thinks of notliing but drinking. This Telechi is the most barbarous man in tlie world ; there are more irons in lus house than in Marseilles, F F 2 1 390 RP.t.KARtyi JODRNf.V TO LAPi.AND, IM. Tclcchi i* the chief of the army, nrul aupnoru tl»c itIkU. This prince of Trunsylvuni.! piiv.t eighty thoiiHiuul crownt oftrilmtc to tlK-(>r:ind StiKuior: tliiitycar tu- hxt paid duiiblc trimitc, hccausc v>nu 'I'm kn had been killed on the territory of Truiinylvania. ikthliMU OatM)r wuh the first who liccunie tributary to the i*ortc ; lie paid ten falcons. Hin ftiicccNVir Michael HaMonH waH obliged to (kiv ten thoiittand crown»; and liagotaki paid twenty ; and the present prince pays eidity thousand. We travelled from iavarow to Javarouf ni ;iix duyH; it is a distance of about forty lca)(uos, Javarouf iH the moHt abominable place, not only of Poland, but of llic whole world. The court remained here this winter, on aceount of the pref^nancy of the (|ueen, who intended to lie in at this place. The court stopn but a short time in one place : it truveU constantly, ami in tlu* most a^reeablc manner imaginable ; for the whole of Poland iHthc fntest country for hunting I have ever seen, and this journey 18 u continued cliace. We had the honour to salute the king, and to kiss the hand of the ouecn. This prince received us with all that gocKlness which he shews to every one, nnu especially to stran- gers : he t(M)k great pleasure in making us relate the particulars of our voyage to Lapland, and he never ceased to intcrn)gute us resi)ectin(r it. The queen lud equal curiosity, and wished to be informed of every particular. PIuh princess is one of the most accom- plished in Kurope; :ihc is about thirty -eight years old, and nature lias Ixren pleased tci im> part to her u portion of all her gifts: she is the finest person at court, the handsomest, and the most witty : it is only to see her, that she may Ix: known ; but one is Uie Ix'ttcr |)er« suaded of her excellencies, when one lias had the lionour of conversing with Ikt. It wan she who placed the crowti on the king's head; and ambition, whidi is tlic noble failing of great souls, was enjoyed by this princess in the highest degree. It was she who incited the king to endeavour to ascend the throne ; and for this purpose she spared neither money nor promises, and exerted herself so much, that she was at length s'jccess- ful, notvvithstanding the great intrigues of the prince of Lorraine. It is true that the arrival of M. dc Bcthune was of noUttle use ; he arrived the night before the diet was to have iKcn finished, when it was intended to proclaim llic prince of Lorraine king the day after ; he made such use o** the litUe time he had, and he nuuiaged the members of the diet so successfully, that they prolonged it for some days, during which time he had leisure to act with that success which he met with. The royal family is the most accomplished which can be any where met with. The eldest prince is called Louis Henry Jacob ; the kin(; of France, the queen of England, and his grandfather, were his g(xl-fathcrs and god-mother. This prince is m his fourteenth jeiur, and promises every thing that can be expected from a great prince ; he is handsome, dances well, and speaks four languages as well as hb own, the German, Latin, French, and Polish : to gratify the king, who knows these languages perfectly, he says, that he wishes to learn all the languages of Europe. The princess, about six or seven yairs of age, is very handsome, and was crowned before she was bom. The prince Alexander, six yearo old, is the most amiable prince that am be seen : there is also the prince Amour, three or four years old. The queen, who is at present preg. nant, has hi*'^ fourteen childn-n, and is still as fresh, and in as good health, as a woman of twenty years of age. I had the honour of holding the game of the king at ombre, of playing with him, and, to crown me with honour, of eating with him at his table, tiie ambassador being placed on his right, and I on his left The master of the horse was there, with the staroibt of . We this day accompanied the king to the chace. Poland is a country wholly adapted for this amusement : this is expressed by tlie word itself; for Po/n, from whence the word is derived, signifies level country, in the Sclavo> nian language. But the chace is not conducted here as in {"'ranee : they make an en- KKONAnt)'» JOirHNT.V TO LAI'I.AM), M. 221 clowirc of nets, near whicli llu^y place )»oldicr», who drive «miI the mime at an o|Kiunn which in left for that piiriKwc : thty send in a gaat iuiiiiIk r of dogs at ihiH ojiciunji;, accom- panied by huntHmen on hoiseback, to asHi^t them, who drive out all the animals which ii ton'uintj. Kvcry one Uikcs hi;* |Mi>.t, two musket-siholH distant from each other, and when •ny animal ap(»ear», whcthtT wolf, fox, roe buck, 8tc. ihcy let loose hiich a numlxr of greyhounds, that the animal must U* very fleet, if it can escajH;. We were extremely sue- cejMiful this day : in less than four lK>ur» we took more than ten roe-bucks, three wolves, fiv»* or nix foxes, and a number of hares ; but what rendered the hunt delightful and blootly, was a wild boor, of the size of a horse, who was killed, after u long contest with the dogs : he killed some of them, niaugled others, and wounded boUi men and horses ; but at length he was killed by the shot of a blunder-buss : they carried him on a little cart to the king, and every body owned that tliey hatl never seen so furious an animal. It was necessary to procure a chariot lor the removal of the mangled dogs, in the same manner as the wounded arc removed after a battle. We saw at the court M. de Vitri, ambassador extra'jrdinary, who received us with particular kindiK'ss. During all the time we were at court, wc had no other house and no other table than his. We saw at his house M. de Valal6, his equerry ; M. Noblet, who departed for France the day after we arrived ; Mess. IVtissier and Devilles, secre- taries ; the marquis ol Arquien, to whom tlie queen gives twenty thousand livres a year ; this is the rendezvous of all the French, for pleasure and for play ; the count of Ma- tigny his son, who is captain of dnigoons, and to whom the (lueen gives two thousand crowns. Wc saw at tne liouse of the marquis of Arquien M. D'Alcruc, M. de Va- lal6, 8ic. The queen has three F. .nch gentlemen, Mess. Ryon, Forges, and Villars, who was in the Swiss regiment of Monsieur : he made a tour through France. Wc knew at the court tlic master of the horse, M. Jalonsky, vice chancellor of (he queen, who is a man of genius ; M. Sarinski, king's secretar}' ; M. Dalanty, an Italian aecretar)' of the king ; and M. Dumont de I'Espine, valet dc chambre. In Poland it is a custom to make presents on festival days. The princess Radzivil is called Catharine ; her fete took place while we were at the court ; tlie queen made her a present, and wished that there should be a dance at the court. These kind of dances never terminate ; and from the beginning to the end every one dances with hb own partner without stopping. They have a mode of dancing in the Russian m»nnci , which b very pleasant : M. the chevalier Lubomirski, grand ensign of the kingdom, dances it perfectly well. They never dance more than at marriages, where the king is at all the ex pence during the ^x or seven days in which the wife does not live with her husband ; and the d;iy in which she is put into his ix)ssession, he treats every body. The Poles are proud, are cxti-emely vain of their hi^h rank, and lay out every thing to procure a fine horse, an elegant dress, and a beautiful sabre : they are handsome ; but in this the women do not resembk them : widi difficulty could two be found at the court, who were supportable. They gratify themselves \vlii\ a number of attendants ; and die petty nobles, who have nothing to live on, attach themselves to some of the richer. The w(»nen almost never go abroad, and go to embrace their husband's thigh when they return home : this is the most cu^omary mode of salutation in Poland ; and the women of quality are saluted in no other manner than by embracing their thigh. There are aome whose embi-aces are a UtUe too rough, and who are very willing to feel that vdiich they embrace. Their dresses are very rich, and are wholly covered with gold at fc'i h i I s I UEGNAUD'S JOUHNEY TO LAPLAND. Uc. aiid silver. Their dress consists of a man's waistcoat unbuttoned, and a petticoat ; they wear boots like men. There is no country in the world more flat than Poland ; we have travelled through almost the whole country without finding a single mountain ; whence, the countr}' bting flat, there are few rivulets, as they are unable to flow, on which account the water is very scarce ; but, to make up for this deprivation, they make very good beer» particularly at Varca, which is renowned throughout the country as being the best. All these extensive plains are sown with corn, and it is exported to various parts of Europe. There is no fortified place in Poland, except Leopold, which is situated on the Turkish frontier: still, however, these are fortifications m the Polish manner, which the French v/ould willingly destroy. It is by this means, they think, that they preser>'e their liberty ; and having no place where they can intrench themselves, they arc ob'iged to make ramparts of their bodies. They are certain to beat the Turks, when they choose, as they have always done ; but, nevertheless, they do not cease to lose their 'country with them. The Tart>irs art the enemies whom they fear most : these men do not seek after glory ; they only desire booty, on which they live. Their trcoi«:5 are never placed in regular order •, they fall suddenly on the enemy's camp, and take every thing they can find ; and at the first sound of the drum, which the captain has fixed to the bow of his oaddle, they retire, and return a qvarter of an hour after- wards to attack some other place ; so that they are constantly on the alert ; by which means they confound their enemies, and continually stop !r"^ molest them. They are, in fighting, particular in this respect, that they fight when flying, and shoot arrows from behind their heads, which are discharged upon their enemies. They make frequent incursions into Poland, when ^!te Poles do not pay them the ten thousand cousuques, which they are obliged to furnish them with every year, which are dresses made of sheeps' skms. The Tartars, when making their incursions, travel thirty or forty leagues in one night, canying with them a little sack filled with straw, attached to the head of their horses, v/hodo not stop, that they may eat it, and a piece of flesh, which becomes baked und:r the saddle ; so that their enemies, unapprised of their approach, they take all that tb4 y can find in the country, men, women, and children, whom they afterwards carry by thv^ Black Sea, to sell at Constantinople. But they have this peculiarity, that they i^ever attack fortified places; nor will forty thousand Tartars attack a paltry village, provided it be only shut up with planks, because they are afraid of ambuscades, and thej do not wish to fight regularly. The Poles are anxious to procure the alliance of the Tartars, and make use of it, unless when at war with the Turks, for whom they always declare themselves, as being Maiiometans, and rendered tributaries to the grand seignior, in consequence of which, if the Ottoman race became extinct, the khan of the Tartars would succeed to the empire. King Casimir had more than twenty thousand of them when the Swedes entered Poland, but they did not await the enemy, and as soon as they knew that they were only two leagues distant from them, they flsd as if they had been at their heels> The n°nublic always maintains seven or eight thousand regaiar troops on the frontiers, to prevent the incursions of the Tartars. The king does pc: mdntsun these troops; he only pays the Heydukes, the Semelles, and ths Janivsaries. The first-mentioned are dressed in blue, with large buttons and plates of tin, and have bonnets made of felt upon their heads. They have firelocks, and the bardiche, which they say is a very good weapon. The Semelles are otlier sokliers. all armed in the same manner; but all the ly^g-lv- ■'^-:-^!i^::>-ii^0',1s''- €^>'j^i^:^:^''-^'^^ m REr;NAnivs jourxey to LAIM.AND, «cc. 223 Janizaries are Turks, dressed like those whom I have seen in Turkey. A very curious circumstance happened during the sitting of the hist diet. A Turkish company of the garrison of Kaminiek deserted completely, v/ith its arms, colours, money-chest, and officers, and came to offer their services to the king of Poland. The king behaved, on this occasion, in a manne." that Ixjcame a great prince, and with his usual intrepidity ; for, notwithstanding the solicitations of the queen, and of all his council, who advised him not to take these men i'lto his service in the present conjuncture of affairs, as he had at that time a Turkish r.nibassador at the court, which made them suppose, wh;it was not unlikely, that thev were spies (the event shewed, however, that he was better infonned than them all) he has them still, and gives them double pay. But it is a ven^ extraordinarj' thing to see a whole company desert, with its officers. The finest militia of Poland consbts of hussars, Tavaches, and ^ nsars, who are all nobles. The armour of the hussars is somewhat singular, i ne king has still a company of about a hundred reitres, who accompany him on all occasions. We saw at Veroni M. Acakias, who returned from Transylvajiia, and gave us infor- mation respecting tliat country ; he told us that the people consisted of Transylvanians and Saxons ; that the former were masters, and the latter somewhat like slaves. The Saxons are people who came from Saxony, who are here treated like Jews, although they are more men of property than the others. The Transylvanians travel without ex- pending a halfpenny, as they live upon, and lodge with the Saxons. When the Tran> sylvanian noblemen have caught some game, they send one of their servants to sell it, and the masters demand some game to eat ; the poor Saxon is obliged to go and pur- chase from the servants of tliese masters the game, and to pay them whatever they demand for it. Almost every person speaks Latin in this country. The Polish language «s Selavonian, like that of Muscovy and Tartary ; and there b as great a difference between these languages, though they are derived from the same source, as betwixt the Italian and Spanish, which are derived from the Latin. The living langua^s which are spoken in Europe may be classed under two heads ; for I am not speakmg of the dead languages, like tlie Greek, the Hebrew and the Latin. The Arabic language is in Asia what the Latin is in Europe ; and with a knowledge of this language, one may pass from the Bosphorus to the most distant parts of India. There are, therefore, only two mother-tongues, which have their dialects, and these are th.^ Teutonian and the Selavonian. The Sclavoniaii is familiar at Constantinople, and its principal dialects are the Russian, spok'^n by the Muscovites, the Dalmatian by the Tran- sylvanians and the Hungarians, the bohcmian and the Polish, and some others, which are spoken among the Wallachians, Moldavians, and Lesser Tartars. The Teutonic has three principal dialects, the German, the Saxon, and tJie Danish ; and from these proceed other idioms, as the English, the Swedish, the Flemish, &c. The Greek language is dead, and less corrupted than the Latin ; but it is still spoken in the 'islands of the Archipelago, in Achda, and in the Morea. There are also several other lesser original languages, which have very little extent ; as the Albanese, in Epirus and Macedonia ; the Bulgarip*^ ' Servia, Bosnia and Bulgaria ; that of the Cossacs, or Lesser Tartars, on the banks of the Tanais ; that of the Laplanders, and the Fins ; that of the Irish ; and the Biscayan, and the Breton. We left the court, after having taken leave of th«r majesties, on Friday, and were conducted by the Sieur de Valal6. We passed next day through Jeroslans, which ^Ives its name to a duchy, the half of which belongs to the queen. We saw some little vil- lages, which contain nothing remarkable. On our journey we were attacked by three robbers ; we were in our chariot, which, on account of the wind, was shut up on all * ;i ^^^ 224 REONARD'S JOimNEY TO LAPLAND, kc. 1 sides : they cried out to our coachman to stop, who had no inclination to obey them, and made a signal to us to prepare our pistols, which we immediately did, and descend- ed from the chariot ^vith the pistoU m our hands, accompanied by our valet, who, armed with a firelock, kept them in check. When they observed this arrangement, they stopt short, and regarded us, without daring to approach. We continued our journey on foot, with our pistols in our hands ; and as it was late, we arrived a short time after at tlie inn, where they sent two of their companions, who came, like passen- gers, to obser/e the situation of our countenances. They saw that we had our arms ready, and that we were on foot during the whole night. We did not know them to be what they really were ; and as it was already late, ^ve had been unable to remark them, on account of the obscurity. They set out two hours before day-break, and we were arranging matters to set out, when the coachman told us that he had seen them join four others in the neighbcnirhood of the house, and that Aey had entered the wood, which was about a hundred paces distant. We did not think it prudent to depart till the return of day ; and we wf^e waiting till it should be lig^t, when we heard four carriages passing, containing twt oxen each. We embraced this opportunity of passi./ through the wtwd ; and as it wa » clear moon-light, we obliged all the drivers to ta!.. white sticks in their hands, which appeared, by the light of the moon, as if they had been muskets. In this manner >ve passed on, while they dared not attack us, although we heard them rustling on everj' side. At the first village we arrived at, the people informed ns that the wood was full of them, and that it was difficult to pass ic without being rouoed. We arrived at Cracow on Thursday morning ; we had some difficulty in procuring lodgings, for there was no tavern in the place. We found an Italian, who conducted us to his house. This man, like all his counUymen, immediately deafened us with his loud noise ; he talked about nothing but millions, his equipage, his horses, and his chariot. We were not long in discovering that the fellow was one of the greatest scoundrels that ever lived. We were no sooner seated at table, than he went to borrow three wooden spoons of his landlord, t»*^ told us that he had ^ven out his own, which \vere silver, to be cleaned. We talked of going out afler dinner, and having inquired whether he had a sword, he told us that ne had unfortunately fdlen the day before, un'l that in falling he had broken it, and had consequently given it to an armourer. In looking at our pistols, he told us that he had a pair, which he had purchased at Amster- dam, which were double-barrelled, and which were at present in the hands of the ar- mourer, that tliey might be cleaned. He told us that he would take us in hb chariot to see the mines ; but when the time came, he said his chariot was newly painted, and four of his horses were lame. But what was most entertaimng was, that he was always protesting that he would take nothing for our lodging with him ; and when it was necessary to go to market, he came to ask a crown, saying, that he had given away nil his cash for letters of exchange on Mess. Pessalouki, of Vienna. He said he had a law-suit respecting two houses in the city worth ten thousand francs, which had come to his possession through his wife ; and, nevertheless, he wished to return with us the fol* lowing day, without any intention of ever coming back. And having aiiked the reason why he would leave such a fine property, and such excellent expectations ? " O," said he, " that gives me no uneasiness ; I shall settle all that business to-morrow ; I shall gain my law-suit ; I shall sell my houses." We sawquite well his rascally inientions,' '> but we wished to amuse ourselves with him to the end ; and to push the raillery a little farther, I asked him, if he would give me letters of exchange on Vienna, for money wluch I sliould pay him ? At l}ib proposition joy began to sparkle cm the scoundrel's -'* .,:*viy'-»7'^r^.- ■,;•• 'J"M: REONARD'a JOURVEY TO LAPLAKD, lu 225 countenance ; he began to paparc the most excellent letters of exchange that were ever made by tlie most celebrated banker ; but unfortunately neither ink nor pajx;r wen- found in the house. I afterwards asked to see his horses ; tho scoundrel perceived that he was laughed at, and that he had to do with men as intelligent as himself. I never saw a man more confounded in my life, and we amused ourselves with i^peating his usual phrase, Italiani non sono miga criUoni ; and we said Francesi, instead of Italiani. We threw in his teeth an infinite number of his deceptions, lies, and contradictions ; and we had the pleasure of confounding the greriest scoundrel in the world. Cracow is the chief city of Upper Poland, and is infinitely more handsome, larger, and has more trade than Warsaw. It is situated on the Vistula, which takes its rise at no great distance. Its academy is much esteemed : it was founded, about three hundred years age, by Casimir the First, who asked for professors from the colleges of th* Sorbonne at Paris, who were the causes of that great reputation which it accjuired. The object most worthy of notice in Cracow is the castle, situated on a little hill ; it is very extensive, but without form, or any regard to the rules of architecture ; the chambers are spacious, and the ceilings superbly gilt ; on which account this residence might be fit for a king. In the church of the castle, ^he tombs of the kings are to be seen ; and they never inter one king, till another has Heen elected. King Casimir and king Michael were interred the same day that the present king was crowned ; for they all come to be; crowned at Cracow. The body of Saint Stanislas is in a shrine of silver, placed in the middle of the church, and covered by a ranopy. This saint, who was killed by one of the kings of Poland, is the cause why the Poles go mth their tieads shaved, and eat no butter on Friday, and some of them on Saturday ; this was imposed on them as a penance, by one of the popes, during a hundred years ; and this custom became a law ■, for although the time of the penance had ex[Hred, they never ceaae to observe this fast, and the custom of Slaving the head. There are few cities, I do not say in Poland, but m all Europe, where there are more churches, priests, and particulariy monks, than in Cracow. They are as rich and as much req)ected here as in Italy ; and this is the reasqn why they are so numerous. With respect to the churches, to do them justice, it must be confessed that the Poles are extremdy anxious about tiie beau^ and the service of their churches ; the gold shines in them on all ades ; and one is astonished to find a church gilt to the very vault, in a wretched village, where it has been in^)os5ible to procure a morsel of bread. The finest churches in Cracow are the Dome, dedicated to Saint Mary, which is in the middle of the square, the Minims, and the Bemardins; the Jesuits have a very beautiful one, lately built in the Italian manner. The great square f s very spacious, and the principal stieets branch out from it : chiefly the grand street, which leads to Casimir, the residence of the Jews, who have in that place their republic, their syna^;ogue, and ttieir court of justice. These gentlemen are no better treated in Poland than m Italy and Turkey, where they are the dregs of the human race, and the sponge vAach is pressed from time to time, and chiefly when the state is in danger. Although they were not disunguished by any particular mark, as in Italy hy a yeUow hat, in Germany by a dress, in Turkey by a turban, in Poland by a ruff, it would be impossible not to know them by their exoom- municated air and their hag^gard looks. However rich they may be, they are unable to leave off that villainous dispositicm in whidi they were b(Hii, and which excites honor in those who have seen them* chiefly in Poland, in the inns which they keep. Throughout the wlide of Black Russia, where there are thirty or forty of them in a little chamber, the chiMren are nd^ed as they were bom, and the fiithers and mothers are only half VOL. I. G c ill! If if : 1.1 Ml i!1 m 9 226 REGNARD'S JOURNEY TO LAPLAND. &C. covered. I do not believe there is any nation in the world more fruitful : one finds in the same box filled with straw, and the same cradle, four or five children of the same mother, who arc so black and hideous, that they appear like little crows in a nest. The tribute which the Jews of Cracow pay to the republic amounts to twenty thou- sand crowns; they give, besides this, tnrc« hundred ducats annually to the l.ing, two hundred to the queen, a hundred to the prince, and a number of other 'esscr cxpcnces, to which they are daily subject. There are some cities in Germany, where they are not permitted to reside ; and when their business calls them to these places, they give one ducat for the first night they sleep in the city, two for the second, and three for the third. This is also the case at Warsaw^ where they are not permitted to reside, except during the sitting of the diets; u*- there is no kind of rascality, which they do not practise; and when any one is kv> ' another time, the scholars are let loose upon them, and have a right over their \a ms ; so that it is easy to imagine what kind of treatment they will receive from these gentlemen. We went to pay our respects to the palatine of Cracow, the first of the kingdom, called Vicliposky, grand chancellor of the crown, and brother-in-law of the king. We had letters to deliver to him from the ambassador, and others for the lady of the grand-chancellor, from the queen, and from the marquis of Arquien, hb father. This nobleman requested us to dine with him : a number of excellent fish were on the table, but the greater part in oil, as it was Saturday ; and here it may be observed, that the Poles do not relish oil, unless it be very strong ; and they say, when it is sweet, as we prefer it, it has no smell. The equerry is at the end of the table, with a large spoon, by which every body is served ; it is necessary to have a knife and fork m one's pocket, else one may very probably be obliged to make use of one's fingers. The grand-chancellor has a very handsome daughter, about thirteen or "^urteen years of age, and two bovs somewhat younger. This nolMeman had the goodness to send us a chariot, to go to the salt mines of Vicliska, which are a good league distant from Cracow. It was to this place we went, to admire the effects of nature in her different productions. In the middle of the square of the city one sees a shed, under which one no sooner enters than a large wheel is observed, which horses are turning, and which is employed to raise the stones which are drawn from the mine. Near this wheel there is a hole dug, as wide as a very large pit, and covered wholly over with large pieces of wood, fixed the one to the other. It was by this aperture that we descended to that abyss ; but before 3etting out on this journey, they clothed us with a kind of surplice. They moved a great number of ropes and girths, which were fixed to the great cable, the one after tte other. Five or six men made preparations to go down with us, and lighted a number of lamps, while others surrouncfed the mouth of the hole, and began to ^ingthat passage of the Passion where these words are, Expiravit Jesus, and still continual, in the most frightful tone, the De profundis. I confess that, at this time, my whole blood freezed ; all the prepa- rations for this living interment appeared to me so horrible, that I wished to be a great way off from the place where I was ; but matters had gone too far ; I was obliged to bury myself alive in this grave. One of our guides placed himself at the end of the cable, with a lamp in his hand ; I then placed myself on my girth above his head ; one of the miners placed himself above me ; my comrade was above him, and another was over his head, with a lamp in his hand, and another rbove him ; so that there were more than a dozen of us, one above luiother, fixed to the cable, like strings of beads, REONARD'S JOURNEY TO LAI'LANU, «M5. 227 in a posture not the most agreeable in the world ; for not only did we run the risk of tlie cable breaking, but we were also afraid lest the cords that supported us should give way> and lest those of others, which would fall upon us, should break. We descended a hundred long toises in this manner ; and we at length found our- selves in a "^lace, very spacious and very deep, in the middle of which we found a chapel, where mass» was fiequently said ; from whence we were conducted by roads without end, where they had removed the salt, which they break off in large pieces, which three horses can with difficulty draw. This stone is of an ash colour, and sparkles like dia- monds ; it is not hard, and the small pieces which fall off in cutting it are put into barrels, and are sold in that state. This stone is infinitely Salter than our excise salt, and becomes white when it is piled up ; but they make a salt of the water which they draw from the deepest places of the mine, which, after it hardens, becomes the whitest and the finest that can possibly be seen. From this quarry we descended to another, for there are seven of them, the one above the other, and when we were near the last we found a rivulet of fresh water, the best I ever drank. This is one of the greatest curiosities I ever beheld in my life, to see a water issuing from and running over stones of salt, without taking the taste of it. There are also other rivulets found here, but their waters are perfectly salt. Afler having descended for two hours, we arrived at length at the last quarry, where the men were working : they cut for us a stone, which fifty horses would have been unable to draw ; and a single man severed this stone from the rock with great ease. When this piece has fallen, they cut it into round pieces, the shape of a barrel, that they may be able ( > roll it into the carriage. We found in this pit a number of men and horses, who wrought at wheels made for the purpose of raising the water. In this mine salt is found of various prices and veins, some of which are better than others. The smallest is called Ziclona, the next Zibicoa, and the best of all Ockavata. The first kind is sold for twelve guldens the ton, which weighs six hundred pounds, the second thirteen, and the third sixteen. This last is like crystal, and equally transparent, and is divided into little squares, like ice. We travelled near four hours in this mine ; and we were assured that, so great is its extent, a person would be unable to go through every part of it in fifteen days. Along the whole length of the vaults of this quarry, salt water, petrified, may be observed, hanging like icicles at a rain spout ; and when it has become hard enough to be wrought, the workmen make chaplets of it, and little utensils of that kind. We ascended by the same ladder by which we descended, and I was still more un- comfortable in going up than in coming down ; for the rope that supported me, not being sufficiently fixed to the cable, slid off from time to time, and caused me great uneasiness ; and, without deceiving, I confess that I felt exU«mely disagreeable, and I promised that I should never revisit these subterraneous regions. To travel this journey once in one's life is perfectly sufficient. We remained three or four days, afler which we set out for Vienna, We passed through Zator.Ozvienzin, and other places belonging to Polandt A JOURNEY TO GERMANY. The first city in Germany which one meets with in Silesia is -, and which is dependant on a particular prince, who is called count Balthasar. We travelled from thence to Ohnutz, the seat of the bishopric. The palace of the bishop, who is both spiritual and temporal prince, b as fine a one as can l>e seen in Germany. We observed i\- 'J:: Vliv "' '* G G 2 I 228 REUNAEiyS JOUUNKY TO LAPLAND, tic. that the principal occupation of the scholars is, to go at night, from street to street, and sing, wlieii they beg for alms : this is a oommoii practice of all the students oi' Germany. We arrived at Vienna on the twentieth day of September. One |xut of the court was absent, and thtre was only here that of the empress dowager, who is of the house of TjTol. The emperor was at Oldenburg, where he held a diet, which all the palatines and great lords of Hungary attended, both to settle the affairs of the rebels, which have (Kxupied attention for more than fifteen years, and to assist in the coronation of the em- press, queen of Hungary. The emperor arrived two days after at Vienna, and we returned with him from J^ungary. He intended to pass the whole winter at Vienna, and after- wards to go to the diet at Ratisbon. The Hungarians are proud, and magnificent in diamonds. The palatine of Hungary, or vice-king, is the richest : he had lately received the order of the Fleece from the Icing of Spain, vacant by the death of the president, who had married the princess of Holstein, where I was present, and where all the people have their rendezvous ; he had long ad- ministered the affliirs of the empire, and has since been blamed, and turned out of the ministry. Abeley has taken his place in the government. The Hungarians are not tall, bat their dr^s tends to give them a good air ; together with the cock feathers which they wear upon their heads, they carry as many feathers as they have beheaded Turks in battle. Their country is the most productive in the world in com, wine, and pasturage, but they are at present ruined; their wine of Tokay is esteemed the best. Vienna is the capital of Austria, and the seat of the empire ; it was attacked in — ~. by the great Soliman, with an army of an hundred thousand men ; but he was obliged to raise the siege. The Turkish arms, which are above the tower of Saint Stephen, are witnesses of a good resistance ; they have been left there, either as a mark of this action, or firom the articles of the capitulation concluded in this manner. The city of Vienna is not large, but it is populous, notwithstanding the horrid ravages of the plague two years ago, which destroyed more than two hundred thousand men. The streets are handsome, and especially those of the quarter of the nobles. The churches are .magni> ficent here, and above all those of the Jesuits, who have three convents here, and are the masters at Vienna. They gather a very considerable tax upon those who enter the city after eight o'clock in summer, and six 'n winter ; one must pay four pence, and this is a dreadful monopoly. Ail tlie fashionables assemble in the church of Samt Michael and Sainte-Croix ; the ladies are placed on one side, and the genUemen on the other. We saw there the sister of MontecucuU, the countess of Arach and for cavalier Nostiche Bouquin — — — . The gala days with the emperor are certain days of rejoicing, when every body is superbly dressed. The precious stones are to be met with in abundance ; and I do not believe there is any place in the world where they are more plenty : the rejoicings take place on the emperor's birth-day, on those of the empress, &c. The emperor is a younger son of Ferdinand the Third. His elder brother died arch> duke at eighteen or twenty years of age ; he was a very handsome prince. The emperor was taken from among the Jdsuits, to be put in his place ; but he was rather bom for the convent than the throne. Ferdinand the Third had three wives, the first was called Mary, the daughter of Philip the Third, king of Spain, by whom he had three sons. The first, as I have said, died king of the Romans, tne second is at present emperor, and the third died bishop of Passau and of Breslaw. HECiNARU'M JOUKNRY TO LAPLAND, br. 229 The second wife of Ferdinand was of the house of Inspruck, who died in child-bed vcnr youngr : her tomb is to be seen at the church of tlie Dominicans. The third, who is still living, is called empress Leonora, dowager ; she is of the house of Mantua, aunt of Uie dutchess of York. She has two daup^hters ; the eldest married Michael Coribut Wienowieski, king of Poland, iind has since been married to tlie duke of Lorraine ; the second was married about two years ago to the duke oi Neubourg, brother-in-law of the emperor. The emperor is called Leopold Ignatius, son of Ferdinand the Third and of Mar)', daughter of Philip the Third, kin^ of Spain. He was bom the ninth dav of June 1640, and was raised to the imperial dignity in ihe year ).659. He has had three wives, like his father. The first was the infanta of Spain, daughter of Philip the Fourth, only sister of the present king, Charles the Second, and sister of the father of the present queen of France. She has a daughter called the arch-duchess, about fourteen or fifteen years of age, who is lame. The second was of the house of Inspruck. The third is of the house of Neubourg. He married this princess about four or five years ago ; and he has a son by her, about four years old, who is called the arch-duke. The arch-duchess had great expectations of being married to the king of Spain ; it is even said that they saluted her as queen for some time at the court. There n1.AM), lie. The horses arc hamessctl with ropes, and the coiichmaii is on horseliuck, since one of thcni heard upon his scat a secret that he revealed. All the attendants travel on liorseback. Before the emixror can be elevated to the imju'rial dignity, he must have been elected king of the Konians, and he cannot enioy this title till he is fourteen years of age. The emperors are elected and crowned at trankiort, but the crown is at Aix-la-Ciupclle. The emperor is very fond of hunting ; 1 was at a hunt which he made on his return from Oldenburg, where they killed eighty or ninety wild boars with the sword. Those ^vho arc near the emperor kill them from a lodge, which is preiiared for him. They treat the emperor witli the respect due to his sacred majesty. He carries the order of the Fleece ; but he does not give it, and it Ix'longs solely to the king of Spain. We never have ambassadors at Vienna, because Spain wishes to have the precedence, as being of the same house. The marquis of Selcvillc was, at this time, envoy extra- ordinary. We lived with the marquis, and I had a private conversation with the mar- chioness ; she is one of the most intelligent and virtuous ladies I have ever known. Wc knew there M. de Saint Laurent, cousin of madamc the marchioness Pigore. We dined several times with the coinit dc Stirum. The count of StarcmlK'rg is governor of the city ; he wished to have a dispute with Messrs. de Marsillac and d'Alincourt, because they had not told their names at the court. V^ienna takes its name from a little river, which passes between tlie suburb of Islaw and the city, which, when it oversows its banks, makes dreadful ravages. The Danube passes here also. It is the largest river in Europe ; it takes its rise in , and, after flowinf; seven or eight hundred leagues, it falls into the Black Sea, by seven mouths. Its course is contrary to that of all the other rivers of the world ; it flows from west to east, and there is no other, except the Po, that resembles it. The Louvre is a large square structure, which contains nothing remarkable. Its court is used as a riding-house. The gentlemen have steps of wood, to assist them in mounting their horses. AUG 13 lg90 • -^"^ ^'J|«| dV^i tt"-nt»_ , j>' IlL on 231 eel he irn )SC ley of ce, ra- ur- Vc led ^ith art. law Libe fter ths. tto Its I in MEMOIR READ BEFORE THE ROYAL ACADEMY OF SCIENCES, i IIIRTEENTil Ol NOVEMBER, ir37, ON THE MEASURE OF A DEGREE OF THE MERIDIAN AT THE POLAR CIRCLE. [BY M. MAUPBarUI*. NEWLY TRANSLATBO.] ililGHTEEN months ago I submitted to this assembly the object and plan of a voyage to the polar circle : I have now to render them an nccoimt of its success ; in doing which it may first be necessary to advert to the ideas which were the cause of its being undertaken. M. Richer having noticed at Cayenne, in 1672, that gravity in that island near the equator was less than in France, the learned turned tlieir eyes towards the consequences that might result from this famous discovery. One of the most illustrious members of the aciidemy maintained, that it proved as well the revolution of the earth un its axis (which did not require to be proved) as the flatness of it towards the poles, which was a paradox. M. Huygens, applying the theory of centrifugal force, of which he was the author, to the jparts which constitute the earth, demonstrated, that taking these parts as gravitadng unirormly towards a centre, and making their revolution round an axis, it must necessarily follow, to support an equilibrium, that they form a spheroid flattened towards the poles. M. Huygens even determined the proportion of flatness, and this by the ordinary principle of gravity. Newton was the partisan of a different theory, of the attraction of the particles of matter one towards the other ; art TIIK MKASURR OF :t li pcatcd, UH often an tlua* urc intermediate degives, would make togctlicr n sum too con* siderable to es(,a|H' the observers*. M. Le Cojnpte de Muiiripan, who is nttucliedlo die st^icnces, and who i^ de^iions o( rendering them servieeable to the state, found united in this undertaking, un advunt.ige to navigation, and to the academy, and the proh|xrct of its being of utility toUic pubhc insured the attention of the Cardinal de Flcury, in the midst of war. The sciences found in him that protection and assistance, which cotild scarcely be exjKXtcd in time of the most profound peace. M. Le Compte de Mauripas (|uickly after sent to the academy the orders of his majest)', to have the (|ue:stion decided resix-'cting the licua- of the earth ; the academy received them with joy, and hiisteiicd by several of its mcmlxrs to put them in executioji ; some were destined to the equator, to measurt the first degree of the meridian, and set off a year Jjefore us; the others for the norili, to measure a degree as near to the pole us possible. The same zeal actuated those vt lio went to expose themselves to the sun under the torrid zone, as them who were to ex|K.*- ricnce the norrors of winter in the frozen regions ; cither had but one aim, that of ren- dering themselves useful to their country. The {mrty designed lor the north was composed of four academicians, Messrs. Clairaut, Camus, Le Monnicr, and myself, and of Mr. L' Abbe Outhier, accom> ixinied by M. Celsius, the celebrated professor of astronomy at Upsal, who assisted us u\ all our labours, and whose information and advice were very useful to us. Were it }x:rmitted mc to speak of my other companions, of their finnness, and their talents, it would be visible, that, however difficult the work we undertook, with their concurrence it must have been easy. A long time has elapsed since we heard last from those gone to the equator : little more of that expedition is known, beside the trouble it has met with, and our experience has taught us to feel for those engaged in it ; we have been more fortunate, and are returned, to bring to the academy the fruits of our toil. The vessel that bore us having arrived at Stockholm, we hastened to set out towards the bottom of the gulph of Bothnia, where we could choose, better r.han by trusting to charts, which of the two coasts of the gulph would be moat suitable to our operations. The perils with which they threatened us at Stockholm did not dete; us ; nor the kind- ness of his majesty, who, in spite of the orders that he issued for u: ceased not from testifying his concern at seeing us depart on so dangerous an adventure. We arrived at Tomeo in time to see the sun shine without setting for several days, as is usual in those climates about the summer solstice ; an admirable sight to an inhabitant of the temperate zones, notwithstanding his knowledge of such being the case at the polar circle. It perhaps will not be useless here to give an idea of the work we had laid down, and the means we had to take in measuring a degree of the meridian. Nobody is ignorant, that as one advances towards the north the stare placed towards the equator appear to sink ; and on the contrary, those situated towards the pole to rise : it is very prooable that the observance of thb phenomenon afforded the first proof of the roundness of the eartho This difference in the meridian height of u star, which we perceive in tracing an arc of the meridian, I call the amplitude of that arc ; it is this which is the measurement of its curve, or, in other words, it is the number of minutes and se- conds which it contains. >V y*f ■ Were the earth entirely spherical, this diffetence of the height of a star (this ampli- tude) would always be in proportion to the arc of the meridian passed over. If, in order to see a star change its elevation one degree, it might be necessary at Paris to pass lit JOltlNKY OP MAirPP.RTVM. i3.t over u H|)ace of fil^y -seven thoiisiiiul Umvs, the sitinc distaiuc sIkuiUI Ik: ({cmo ovir ni 'I'ornco, to (iiid the HHme chiin^;t.- in thv iK-i^ht of the Htar. ir, on the coi\tiary, the surfaec of the lartli wen miilornily even, howi ver great \\\v di^ tanrc passed over towards the north, the Htar would a|)i)c-ar neither more nor less elevated. If then the buri'ace of the earth Ik: unequally eurved in different n gifinN, to find tiM san»e diff'erenee of die elevation of a star, it will be neeevsarj , in those different rcnions, to pass over une(|ual arelies of tfie meridian of the eardi : and those arches, whose am- plitude is a deffix'e, will fjc lonf^T where tlit earth is more fliitenetl. So tliat if die carti) he flattened towards tlie poles, a degree of tlie terrestrial meridian will \k. longer towards the poles than at the ecjuator ; and liencc the figme of the earth niay he ascer- Uiiiud, by comparing the diffennt degrees one with the other. By this will Ik; seen, that to have the measure of a degree of the meridiiiu of tite cnrtfi, a distance on tluH meridian must be measured, and the eluinge of the ek va'ion of a star at the two extremities be known, in order to be able to eonipari the length of iIk arch with its amplitude. The first part of our work consisted then in measuring a considi rable space ii|K)n the meridian, and for this purposv a succession of triangles was necessary, which might com- municate with some base, whose length miglit be measured l)y tlie ihjIc. We had always entertained the liope of fx'ing able to make our obscr\'ations upon the shores of the Gulph of Bothnia. The facility of crossing by sea to tlie diffeivnl stations, of trans|X)rting the instruments in boats, the ad>> ant;igc uf observations, that the islands of the gulf markcxl in such number upon the cliarts seemed to hold out to U8 : all these had pre-determined us in favour of the coast and isles. We proceeded with impatience to reconnoitre, but all our voyages for that purpose served only to shew UR the necestiity of giving up our first intention. These islands, which lay off the shores of the gulph, and the coast of the gulf itself, which we had repascnted to our fancy as promontories, visible at a great distance, and from which we might distinguish others equally distant, all these islands were level with tlic water, and conse(|uently quickly hid by the roundness of the earth. TIK7 even concealed each other to\\'ards the borders of the gulf, when they were too near; and wheiv ranged along the coasts, they did not adviince far enough into the sea, to aftbrd us the direction we required. After repeated fruitless endeavours to obtain in these islands what they could not afford, we were obliged to give up all hope, and abandon them. I travelled from Stockholm to Torneo in a coach with the rest of the company ; but chance having thrown in our way, in the course of this long journey, the vessel which bore our instruments and serv ants, I went on board, and arrived at Torneo several days before the others. On landing I met with the govemoi* of the province, who was going to visit Northern Lapland (part of his government.) I joined him, in order to gather some idea of the country in the absence of my companions, and penetrated fifteen leagues towards the north. On the night of the solstice I ascended one of the highest mountains of this country, called Avasaxa ; and returned in sufficient time to be at Torneo on their arrival. In this journey, which lasted but three days, I remarked that the river Torneo ran pretty closely in the direction of the meridian, as far as I had gone ; and noticed on all sides high mountains, diat afibrded stations perceptible at great istances. We thought then of beginning our operations to tlie north of Torneo, upon the sum- mits of these mountains, but this apjxared to us scarcely (wssible. We had, in the deserts of a country hardl}' inhabitable, in the immense forest which extends from Torneo to the North Cape, to effect operations, difficult even in the most VOL. I. H H r^i 934 jouRNr.Y or M.vtpi'.nTtiii. f I cf iDHUxlioiis (TMintricH. Th( re w^rv fnit two mo<1t's ofpjcuing forward it) ihcv doHfrts, lo l)oll» ol" whifh wc wen ohli^al to huvr ricour »f ; the om- by iiaviK.itiiifif it rivxr full of ( ataractit, the otlu r It) pi'ocrcdinp; on toot throii^li thick forcittN, or dcip nuin)hco f'MHu ntin^, that they ohlij^e the I^aolaiiders and tlieir rciii-decr to abandon the coiinliy durinp; this season, to seok, on the filioren of the sea, u more tolcruhle residence. To huni tip all, the work was to be uiulertakcn without knowing, or Ivcing able to learn, win the r it was practicable; without knowinj^ whether, alter so much pains, the want of one mountain mi)j;ht not ubsolutdy sto[) the course of our triangles ; und without knowin^r whedur we should be al.>le to find upon the river a base, that could ix: united with our triangles. Should all these succeed, we had afterwards to construct ol>scrvtt- tot ies on the most northern of our mountains ; a train of instruments, more complete than are to lic found in many of the obnervatories of Europe, were to be transported there; and astronomical observations to be made, the most minutely exact. If on one hand these different obstacles were sufficient to alarm us; on tlic othet ihc work had many attractions. Besides the difficulties wc had to overcome, wc had to measure a degae, in all probability as far towards the north as is |Krmitted man t measure, the degree which cuts the jwlar circle, and of which one part is in the froze zone. After all, gVvinjj* up tfie hope of being able to make use of the islands of the gulf, this was our last resource ; for we could not satisfy ourselves, by descending to tnc more soiiihern provinces of Sweden. We left Torneo on Friday July sixth, with a company of Finnish soldiers, and a great number of boats, laden with instruments, and the most indis|)cnsible necessiirics of life ; and began to astiend the great river, which, proceeding from the extremity of Lap- land, empties itself into die Bothnick Sea, after dividing into two branches, which form the little island Swintztitr, on which the t^)wn is built, in latitude 65 degrees 51 minutes. From that day we lived in the deserts and on the tops of mountains, which wc were desirous of uniting by triangles. After having ascended the river from nine o^clock in the morning until nine at night, wc arrived at Korpikyla, a hamlet on its banks, in- habited by Fins; we landed there, and after marching a long time across the forest, we arrived at the foot of Nirva, a sharp mountain, whose summit is composed of rock alone, which we ascended, and upon which we established ourselves. On the river we had been grievously incommoded by large flics with green heads, which drew blood wherever they stung ; on Nirva we were plagued with several other kinds, still more tormenting. Two young Lapland girls were keeping a little herd of rein-deer upon the summit of this mountain, and from them we learned an antidote against the flies of the country : diese poor wenches were so much hid by the smoke of a great fire which they had kindled, that \ve could scarcely see them ; and very soon we were surrounded by a smoke as thick as theirs. While our party was encamped on Nirva, I left it at eight in the morning witli Mr. Camus, to reconnoitre the mountains towards the north ; we ascended the river again as far as to the foot of Avasaxa, a high mountain, whose summit we stripped of its trees, and erected a signal upon it. Our signals were hollow cones, made by a number of great trees, which, being deprived of their bark, were so white as to be easily distinguished at the distance of ten or twelve leagues ; their centre, in case of ,!l JUIUNKV Ul' MALt'KUILM. JJ.5 of of a be of ■eokknt, \va» cunily to be foiiiul a^tiii, by inarkrt wtiicli ui luaiU- oit tlic lutk^, iwul Mtakt-H which were driven dctp info the earth, and covered aj^aiu by ijreut htont ^ ; in nhort, thtse si^naN were snthcii-ntly comm'Khons ibr ob*iervution», and uh Hulittantially constructed as most of the buildings <>t' the country. As soon as the signal was finished we descetukd llic uunintain, and having embarked on the little river Tenglio, which, passing die llxit of Avasaxa, empties itself into the great river, we went .p it us far as to that part which seemed to us nearest to a nioimtaiii apiwrcntljr caiculnted for our work ; there we landed, anti, after a nurch of three hoursi across a marsh, arrived at the foot of Horrilaken). Although greatly fniigued, wv ascended it, and paMsed the niglu in cutting down what trees we fomul. A gre.it part of the mountain is of red stone, interspersed with a sort of white crystals, long, and tolerably parallel to one another. The smoke wuh not heiv a preventative against the flies, more vexatious upon tliis moimtain than on Nirva. We were obliged, notwith- standing the excessive heat, to cover our heads with our Lapnuides (a dress njiiile ol" the skins of rein-deer) and to cause ourselves to be surrounded by a thick rampart of branches of fir, and even by whole trees,, which almoiii. overw helmed us, but which pre- sv'rvcd us only for a short time. After having felled all the trtxs on the ton of Hoirilakero, and constructed a signal there, wc left it, and retraced our roiid, to find the l)oats which we hud drawn into the wood ; it is thus the inhabitants of the country manage, for want of cordage, which is very scarce with them. A few verv thin planks of deal compose their skift's, so light, and so flexible, that notwithstanding ihey continually strike uguinst the stones, with which the rivers are full, borne by the whole violence of the torrent, they bear the shock without injury. It nflbrds a sight, terrible for those unaccustomed to it, and astonishing to all, to behold this frail machine in the midst of u cataract, the noise of which is deafen- ing, carried away by a torrent of waves, froth and stones ; sometimes borne up aloft, and at others lost amid the waves ; one dauntless Fin steering it with an our, while two others row with all their might, to escape the following waves, that threaten to over- whelm them ; at such times the keel is often above the water, and only supix)rted by one extremity pressing on a wave, which sinks at every instant. Although these Fins be particularly bold and skilful amid cataracts, they are everywhere else in^nious in steer- ing small vessels, in which most frequently they have nothing but a tree, with its branches, to serve for a mast and sails. We re-embarked on the 'I'englio, and having entered the Torneo, we sailed down it, to return to Korpikyla. Four leagues from Avii&axa we left our boats, and, after walking nearly an hour in the forest, we found ourselves at the foot of Cuitapari, a very rugged mountain, whose top was a rock covered with moss, commanding a pros- (lect all around for a considerable distimce ; from it on the south wc could distinguish the sea of Bothnia : we raised a signal here, from which we saw Horrilakero, Aviisiixa, Torneo, Nirva, and Kukama. We continued then to fall down the river, which, between Cuitaperi and Korpikyla, contains dreadful cataracts that it is not usual to puss in boats. The Fins did not fail to land in the neighbourhood of these, although excess of fatigue made it more supportable for us to pass them in boats than to walk a hui-dred paces. At length, the eleventh of July at niglit, we came to Nirva, where the remainder of our company was established ; they had seen our signals, but the sky had been so much charged with vapour, they had been unable to make any observation. I know not whether it was owing to the continual presence of the sun above the horizon, whicli raised vapours that there was no night to condense, but during the two months that we passed upon these mountains the heavens were always overcast, until the north wind H H 2 ,t >■ iil-i"' ii 236 JOURNEY OF MALPKkrnS. came to dissipate the mist. This disposition of the atmosphere often detained us eight or ten days on u m'liwitaiii, in waiting for the favourable opportunity of s;;eing distinctly the objects we \\ ished to observe. It was not until the day after our return to Nirva, that some angles were taken ; and the following, under favour of a very bleak north wind, we completed our observations. July tb'j fourteenth we left Nirva, and while Messrs. Camus, Le Monnier and Celsius went to Kr,kama, Messrs. Clai.aut, Cuthier and myself passed on to Cuitaperi, whence on the sixteenth M. L Abbe Cuthier departed, to place a signal on Pullingi. The ?ighteenth we took ol>servfitions, which, notw'thstanding the interruption of thunder and rain, we completed by night, and the twentieth we set ofF, anj arrived at midnight at Avisaxa. This mountain is fifteen leagues from Torneo, on the bank of 'he river ; the access to it is difficult ; to ascend it, we had to pass through a fores', that continues for half its height ; it is there divided by great heaps of shiu-p and slippery stones from its re- mainder, which extended to the summit ; I say extended, because we caused all the trees that covered th'. top to l)e cut down. The north-east side is a frightful precipice of rocks, in whici i some falcons had made their nests ; at the foot of it the Tenglio runs, 'vh'ich turns round Avasaxa before it throws itself into the Torneo. From this moun- tain the prospect is beautiful ; nothing interrupts the sight towards the south, and the course of the river is discernible for a vast extent ; towards the east the Tenglio is traced through several lakes that it passes ; on the north the view extends twelve or fifteen leagues, where it is interrupted by a multlt ide of mou'icains, heaped one upon the other, resc'nbling chaoc imong which it wai not easy to find that which we had see^n from Avasaxa. We j-5assed ten days on this mountain, during which curiosity often procured us visits frcm the inhabitants of the neighbouring country ; they brought us fish, sheep, and such wrjtched fruits as grow in their forests. Between this mountain and Cuitapari the river is exceeding broad, and forms a kind of lake, v.Iiich, as well as that it w^as extensive, was very advant^eously situated for our base ; Messrs. Clairaut and Camus took upon themselves the care of ascertaining its direction, and for that purpose remained at Oswer Torneo after our observations upon Avasaxa were completed ; while 1 went to Pullin-ji with Messrs. Le Monnier, Cutluer and Celsius. On the same day that we left Avasaxa we passed the polar circle, and airived the next day f.T'..ly thirty- first) at three o'clock in the morning, at Turtula, a kind of hamlet for the reapers of the little barley and grass that ^w in those parts. After walking some time in the forest, we embarked or a lake, which carried us to the foot of Pullingi. It is the highest of the nwuntains, and extremely difficult of access, from the sudden- ness with which it arises, and from the height of the inos», in which we could scarcely walk. We got to the summit however at ax o'clock in the morning, and the stay we made, from July thirty-first to August sixth, was as painful as our ascent. It was ne- cessary we should cut down a forest of the largest trees ; and tlie flies were so trouble- some, that our soUliers of the regiment of Westro-Bothnia, a regiment distinguidied even in Sweden, where there are so n«any brave men, these men, inund to the greatest hare* '^ hips, were obliged to envelope their faces, and cover them with pitcii -, these insects infected every thing we were about to eat ; as soon as exposed, our meat was biuck over with them. The birds of prey were iwt less famished ; they flew round us continually, to seize on some joints of mutton wMch were cooldng for us. ^^U£ JOl'RNKY OK MVl.l'F.UTLIh 23' The day after our arrival at Piillingi, M. L' Abbe Ciuhicr left us, accompatjjcd by an officer of the same regiment wliich had rendered us so much service, to erect a signal towards Plllo. On the fourth we ixjrceived one on Niemi, that the same officer had raised : having taken the angles between these signals, wc left Pullingi the sixth of Atigust (having suffered severely) to go to Pillo ; passing four cataracts, we arrived there the same day. Pillo is a village inhabited by a few Fins, nes^r to which Kittis, the lowest of the moun. tains, is situateu , upon this our signal vvas placed. In ascending towards it, we found a spring of the purest water, issuing from a very fine sand, and which in the severest frosts of winter preserves its liquid state ; when we returned to Pillo, at the end of winter, while the sea at the bottom of the gulf and all the rivers uere liecome hard as marble, this water still ran as in the middle of summer. We were so fortunate on our arrival as to complete our observations, and staid at Kittis only till the following day ; leaving it at three o'clock in the afternoon, and arriving the same evening at Turtula. Already a month had passed that we had lived in the deserts, or rather on the tops ol mountains, having no other bed than the ground, or a stone, spread over with deer skins, nor any other nourishment than a few fish which the Fins brought us, or which we our- selves caught, and iome species of berries, or wild fruits, which the forests i'JForded. The health of M. Monnier, which was not proof against this kind of life, and which was considerably hurt at PuUingi, diminished visibly, and entirely failing him here, I lelt him at Turtula, to descend the river, and go for its re-establishmcnt to the house of the rector of Oswer Tomeo, which was the best and almost the only asylum the country possessed. At the same time I left Turtula in company with Messrs. Cuthier and Celsius, to tra- verse the fore.t in search of the sgnul that the officer had erected at Niemi ; this was a terrible jr !rnev , we proceeded as far as to a littlr rivulet on leaving Turtula, when we got on board tnrce small boats, but they passed with so much trouble among the rocks, Wat we were tvery now ind then obliged to get out, and leap from one to .:T.other. This rivulet led us to a lake, so full of little yellow grains of the size of millet, that its water was entirely coloured by it ; I took them to be the chrysals of some insect, and conjectured that they were those of the flies which had so much tormented us, since I saw no others whose numbers could answer the quantity of grains requisite to fill a lake of tdcrable size. At the end of this lake we had to walk to another of the finest water, on which we found a boat ; we put our quadrant in it, and followed it along the shore. On these shoi\:s the forec^ was so thick, that we were obliged to cut our way through, every moment inconveiienced by the height of the moss, and by the fir trees which wc met with lying on the ground. In all these forests there are nearly as rm\y of these trees llillen as standing ; the soil which nourishes them to a certain point is inca- pable of afifoiw^i; them nutriment beyond, and not deep enough to allow them to establish themselves firmly ; one half perishes, or is blown down by the least wind. All :hc;se forests are full of firs and birch trees, thus rooted up. Time has reduced the lattei to dust, without occasioning the smc'lest change in the bark : we were surprised to find that with the least stroke wc could crush and break them, although of some size. It is this, most likely, which gave origin to the use that the Swedes make of the bark of birch ; they cover houses witli it, and in fact nothing can be better adapted fw the purpose. In some provinces this bark is covered with earth, upwi ^^ich gardens are form- ed upon tne roofs, as on many of the houses at Upsal. In Westro-Bothnia the u m M^m... 238 JOl'UNKV OF MAUPEini'IS bark- '3 fiistencd by cylinders of fir, fixed to the ridge, declining on both sides the roof, rhese woods seemed only the ruins of forests, of which the greater part of the tret, s had perished; it was one of this description, and the most hideous of them, that we had to pass through on foot, followed by IwcIaA soldiers, wiio carried our baggage. We camL- at length to the border of a lake of great size, and of the finest water in the world ; we found two boats on it, into which having put our instruments and lug^jage, ^ve waited their re- turn at the side. A heavy gale, and the bad state of the boats, made their voyiige tedious ; they came back at length, we went on board, traversed the lake, and got to the foot of Niemi at three o'clock in the afternoon. This mountain, which the surrounding lakes, and the difficulties we liau to surmount in reaching it, made appear like the enchanted grounds of fairy tales, would be delightful in any other part but Lapland : on one side a clear wood, the walks of which were as even as the alleys of a garden ; in it the trees formed no impedime\it to our >vay, nor prevented the view of a charming lake that washed the foot of the mountain ; on the other side were parlours and closets, seemingly cut out of the rock, and to which nothing but the roof was wanting : these rocks were so perpendicular, so lofty, and so even, that they looked more like walls begun for some palace, than a work of nature. Frequently while there we saw those vapcirs rise out of the lake, which the inhabitants of the country call Haltios, and which they conceive to be the spirits to whom the guardianship of the moun- tains is committed : this particular mountam was formidable, by its being the residence of bears ; however, we saw none, and it had more the appearance of the habitation of genii and fairies, than the dwelling for bears. The day following that of our arrival a fog prevented our observations ; on the tenth they were interrupted by thunder and rain ; the eleventh wc completed them, and leaving Niemi, after rejiassing three lakes, wc arrived at Turtnla, at nine o'clock in the even- ing ; whenccon the twelfth we again set out for the house of the rector of Oswer Torneo, which we reached at three o'clock in the afternoon, and where we met with opr compa- nions : leaving M. Le Monnier, and M. L'Abb^ Cuthier, on the thirteenth, I proceeded with Messrs. C'airaut, Camus, and Celsius, for Horrilakero, with four boats. We entered the Tenglio, which has its cataracts, but is more inconvenient from its shallowness, and the great number of stones in it, than from the rapidity of its waters. I was surprised to find on its banks, so near to the frozen zone, roses of as lively crimson as those which grow with us. At nine o'clock in the evening we arrived at Horrilakero. We did not complete our observations here until the seventeenth, and leaving it the nest day, we got to Oswer Torneo by night, meeting with all our company. The most suitable spot for establishing the base had been fixed upon ; and Messrs. Clairaut and Camus, after having visited the banks of the river, had determined its direc- tion, and fixed the length of it by signals, which they had caused to be erected at its two extremities. ; i , Having ascended Avasaxa in the evening, to observe the angles wlu<^ wereto unite this base to our triangles, we saw Horrilakero all on fire. This is an accident frequent in these forests, where there is no subsisung during summer except in the midst of smoke, and where the moss and the firs are so combustible, that oftendmes the fire that is lighted occasions the conflagradon of thousands of acres. The smoke of these fires has irequently hindered us in our work as much as the thickness of the air. Seeing that it was highly probable that the fire of Horrilakero arose from the embers of that we had kindled, and which had been badly extinguished, we sent thirty men to cut away its communication w^*h the neighbouring woods. Our observations on Avasaxa were not completed before the twenty-first. Horrilakero still continued burning ; we saw it co- *^i JOVRXEV OF MAlTKIlTflS. 239 vcied with smoke, and the fire, whicli had reached the forest below, at intervals brolce out with violence. Some of the people sent to Horrilakero reporting that the signal had been damaged by the fire, we sent to re-construct it, u work of no difficulty, from the precautions be- fore noticed. The twenty-second we went to Poiky Tomeo, on the bank of the river, where the northern signal of the base was stationed, to make the observations necessary to unite it to the summit of the mountains ; and on the twenty-third we left it for the other extre- mity of the base, where, on the bank of the river, at a place called Niemisby, the southern signal was placed. That night we slept in a pretty pleasant meadow, from which M. Camus the next day went on to Pello, to prepare huts for us, and construct an observa- tory on Kittis, where we were to make astronomical observations, for ascertaining the amplitude of our arch. After taking our observation from the southern signal, we again ascended Cuitaperi at night, where the last observation, which was to unite the base with the triangles, was completed on the twenty -sixth. We had just learned that the sextant which we expected from England had ar- rived at Tomeo, and we hastened to that place to get it ready, with the other instru- ments that we had, to carry to Kittis, where the severity of winter was more to be dreaded than at Tomeo, and where for which reason we were desirous of beginning our observations for determining the amplitude of the arch, before the frosts set in. While all was preparing for the journey to Pello, we went up the steeple of the church built on the Isle of Swintztar, which 1 notice, in order that it may not be confounded with the Finnish church built in the Isle of Bierckhohn, to the south of Swintztar ; and having observed from this steeple the angles which it made with our mountains, we again left Tomeo the third of Septemlxr with fifteen boats, the largest fleet which had ever lieen seen on the river, and arrived to sleep at Kuckula. The succeeding day we rt ' d Korpikyla, and while part of our company continued their route towards Pello, I setoti" on foot with Messrs. Celsius and Cuthierfor the Ka- kama, where we arrived at nine in the ev* ning, through a he avy rain. The whole summit of Kakama consiai;:* of foliated white stone, its leaves having a ver- tical direction, almost perpendicular to the meridian. 1 j lese stones held the rain, which for some time back had fallen in such manner, that every part which '^.id not consist of rock>vas covered with water; and it continuing to rain through the night, our observa- tions could not be completed till the next day ; we ere consequently obliged to pass a second night as damp and as cold as the preceding . on the sixth our observations were finished. After the uncomfortable stay that we made at Kakama w left it, and, urged by a con- tinual rain through a forest where we had difficulty to keep our feet, we exerted our- selves greatly to get forward, and after five hours \ .uh.ing arrived at Korpikyla : we slept there that night, and continuing our journey the next day, we reached Pello the ninth of September, where we met all together. Our different expeditions, and a r^aidence of sixty-three days in the deserts, had ^ven us the best succession of triangles possible : a work, the practicability of which was un- certain, and in which we ran great hazard of not succeeding, had turned out as fortu- nately as it could have done, had we possessed the power of disposing the site of the mountains at our pleasure. Our mountains collectively wth the church of Tomeo formed a close figure, in the midst of which was Horrilakero, a focus serving to unite all the triangles of which our figure was composed : it was a long heptagon, m the direction of the meridian. This \i'>t Hi:. 240 .lOUKNEY OF MAOJ'RRTLiH figure was susceptible of a proof rather singular in these operations, depending on the natural qualities of polygons. The sum of the angles of an heptagon on u level is 900 degrees : the sum of our heptagon on a curvetf surface ought to exceed this a little, and we found it 900 deerees } minute 37 seconds, ccording to our observations of sixteen angles. Towards the middle of the figure Wv, firmed a base, the largest perhaps that ever was measured, and the most even ; since it was on the surface of the river that it was to be measured, when it should be frozen. The extent of this base secured o us an exactitude in measuring the heptagon, and its position left no room to apprehend that there could be any errors of moment, from the small numlier of triangles, in the midst of which it was placed. Indeed, the length ^f the arc of the meridian which we were measuring was very con- venient for the certainty of our work. If there be an advantage in measuring largo arcs, inasmuch that the errors ^vhich may arise in computing the amplitude are not greater for large than small arches, and that diffused amid small ones, they make a more considerable total of error than amid larger ones : on the other hand, the mistakes which may be made in the triangles may have consequences dangerous in proportion to the distance to be measured, and the numIxT of tlie triangles. If the number be great, and the conveniency of a base for IVequent proofs be wanting, these last errors may form a very diverging seiies, and more than coimterbalance the advantages derivable from large arcs. I had read to the academy before my departure a memoir on this subject, in which I determined the most advantageous length to be measured for a cer. tainty of exactitude ; this length depends on the precision with which the horizontal ?ngles are obscn-ved, compared with that which the instrument may give, with which ^hc disumce of the stars from the zenith is taken ; i>nd applying the reflections which I made to our work, it will be found that a longer or shorter arc than ours would not have afforded so much certainty of its measure. • *; ■ v. For observing the angles between our signals we used a quadrant of two feet radius, with a micrometer attacned, which, being verified round the horizon, always gave the sum of the angles very nigh by four proofs : its centre was always phced in the centre of the !,jgnals; every one took and wrote his observations separately ; and afterwards we adopted the mean of all the observations, which differed very little one from another. On every mountain we took especial care to observe the elevation or depression of the objects chosen for taking the angles, and the reduction of the singles to the level of the horizon we established on these heights. This first part of our work, which might have been impossible, being thus happily terminated, wt gathered fresh spirits to go through the rest, which simply required labour. In a succession of triangles joined one to another by common sides-, the angles of which are known, one side being ascert^ned, it is easy to find the remainder ; we were sure of possessing the exact distance from the steeple of the church of Tomeo, which terminated our heptagon towards the south, to the signal of Kittis, which was its northern extremity, as soon as the length of our base should be known ; and the measurement of this we postr jned till winter, when we should -ot want either for time or ice. We then turned to another part of our work, to determine the aittpPtudeof the arc of the meridian comprehended between Kittis and Tomeo, the measurement of which we looked upon as complete. I have already stated what this was \\ liich we had to de» termine. It was necessary to observe how much higher or Iovt the same star when on the meridian appeared at Tomeo than at Kittis, or, what is the tsamc, how much this star on crossing the meridian was more near or distant from the zenith of Tomeo than of Kittis. This difference between thet wo elevations, or the two distances from the zenith, ./OURNKV OP MAUPKRTUIS. 241 was the amplitude of the arc of the terrestrial meridian between Kittis and Tornco. This i» a simple operation ; it does not even require tliat one should have the positive distances of the star from the zenith of each place ; it is sulHcient to take the ditterencc between tlie distances ; but this operation exacts the greatest rucety and the utmost pre- caution. We had for the purpose a sextant of about nine feel radius, similar to that which Mr. Bradley uses, and with which he made his curious discovery of the aberration of the lixed stars. The instrument was made at London, under the inspection of Mr. Graham, of the Hnynl Society of England. This able mechanic had studied to unite in it every advantage and convenience that we could desire, and himself graduated the limb. There are too many things to notice in this instrument for my giving now a complete description of it. Although what properly constitutes the instrument Ije very simple, its size, the number of pieces serving to render it commodious to the observer, tne weight of a large pyramid nearly twelve feet high, which forms its pedestal, made its getting up to the summit of the mountains of Lapland almost un impracticable matter. On Kittis two observatories had been buii' : in one was the time-piece of Mr. Gra- ham, a quadrant of two feet, and an instrument consisting of a telcscojie fixed perjien- dicularly, and moveable about an horizontal axis, for which as well we were indebted to the care of Mr. Graham ; this instrument was placed exactly in the centr' of the signal, which served as a point to our last triangle; it was used for determinirg the di- rection of the triangles with the meridian. The other observatory, much lai^r, was adjoining, and so nigh, that one could distinctly hear the ticking of the time-pieces from one to tne other ; the sextant almost filled it. I shall say nothing of the diBiculty of transporting so many instruments to the top of the mountain : it was effected, the limb of the sextant was placed exactiy on the level of the meridian we had traced, and we satisfied ourselves of its exactness by the time of the passing of a star, of which we had taken the elevation. To sum up, every thing on the thirtieth of September was ready to begin observing, and the succeeding days the observations of the star ) of the Dragon were made, in which the greatest diiference that occurred did not exceed 3 seconds. While observing this star with the sextant, the other observations were not neglected ; the time-piece was regulated every day with care by corresponding elevations of the sun ; and with the instrument which I before mentioned we observed the jiassagc of the sun, and the time of passing the verticals of Niemi and PuUingi. By these means the situation of our heptagon in respect to the meridian was ascertained, and eight of these observations, the difference between the widest of which did not amount to a minute, gave for a mean of the angle forajed with the meridian of Kittis, by a line drawn from the signal of Kittis to the signal of Pullingi, 28 degrees 51 minutes 52 seconds. All these observations were very happily completed, but rains and fogs had so much retarded them, that we had reached a period, at which it was scarcely possible to under- take a return to Torneo ; nevertheless, other corresjwnding observations upon the same star remained to be made there, and we were desirous that the smallest possible interval should occur between the observations, in order to obviate the errors which might arise from any motion of the star (in case it should have any of which we were ignorant.) It is sufficiently distinguishable that the whole of this operation, being founded upon the difference of the meridional height of a certain star observed at Kittis and at Torneo, it is necessary that the star should maintain the same position ; or at least, if it should be lia. ble to any change of elevation, that it should be known, in order not to confound such mo- tion with the curve of ibe arc desired. Astronomers for many ages have noticed a revolution ol the stars round the poles of vol. I, II 'i f '\^ i ' 242 JOURNEY OP MAUPKRTtlS. the ecliptic, which causes the preccsssion of the equinox, and a change of declension in the stars, which wc can compute upon in the matter of which we speak. But there is in th;- stars another change of declension, on which, although more rc- ccntlv observed, I In lieve we may reckon as securely as upon the other. Although Mr. i3radlcy be the fust who discovered the rules of the change, the exactness of his observations, and the excellence of the instrument with which they were made, arc equivalent to many ages of ordinary obsevvations. He found that every star observed during the course of tne year seemed to describe in the heavens a small ellipsis, of which the ;^eat axis is about 40 seconds. As there appeared at first to be a great variety in this motion of the stars, it Wiis not till after a long succession of observations that Mr. Bradley discovered the theory upon which this niotion, or rather this appearance, de. pcnds. If to discover so small a motion required his nicety of observation, his intelli- gence as well was necessary to find out the principle which produced it. We will not attempt to explain the system of that celebrated astronomer, which may be much better seen by consulting No. 406. of the Philosophical Transactbns ; all that we shall observe on the subject of this difference in the place of the stars, observed from the earth, is, that it arises from the motion of the light radiated by the star, and the motion of the earth in its or^it, combined together. Were the earth motionless, it would require a certain inclination of the telescope, through which a star is observed, to permit the ray emitted by the star to traverse its centre in coming to the eye. But if the earth, ii^ich bears the telescope, move with a velocity comparable to the velocity of the ray of light, it is no longer the same inclination which is necessary to ^ve to the telescope ; its position must be changed, to allow the ray of light penetraung Us centre to reach the eye ; and the different |X)sitions of the telescope will depend on the different directions in which the earth moves, at the various seasons of the year. The calculation being made on this principle, according to the velocity of the earth in its orbit, and according to the velo- city of light, known by different experiments, the change of declension in the stars is found to be as stated by Mr. Bradlc} , from observation ; and one is enabled to subtract from the declension of every star the quantity necessary for considering it as fixed, dur- ing the time that must elapse between the observations that are compared with each other for determining an arc of the meridian. Although the motion of every star in the course of the year follows very exactly the law which depends upon this theory, Mr. Bradley has discovered yet an additional mo- tion of the stars, much smaller than the two wliich we have mentioned, and which is not sensible until after the lapse of several years. To perfect nicety this third motion should be reckoned ; but for our work, in which the time that passed between the observations was very short, its effect is insensible, or raf.her much smaller than one can reasonably hoi>e to determine in these kind of operadons. In fact, I consulted Mr. Bradley, to know if he had any observations upon the two stars that we used for ascertaining the amplitude of our arc. Although he had not observed our stars, because they pass too far from his zenith to be observed with his instrument, he has been so good as to com- municate to me his last discoveries on the aberration and the third motion of the stars, and the corrected copy which he has sent for our amplitude, in which attention is paid to the precession of the equinox, the aberration of the stars, and this new motion, does not sensibly differ from the amended scheme which we had made for the precession and aberration alone, as in the detail of our operations will be seen. Notwithstanding we might safely rely upon the amendment for the aberration of light, we were willing to make this amendment as little as possible, in order to satisfy those (if any there should be) who might be unwilling to admit of Mr. Bradley's theory, or th JOURNEY OP MAUPERTr;i3. 243 who should imagine that there were other motions of the stars ; for this piir[)ose it was fit that the interval between the observationsi at Kittis and at Torneo should be as short as jKissible. We had perceived ice as early as the nineteenth of September, and snow on the twentj . first. Several parts of the river were already frozen, and these first frosts, which were im« ptrkct, prevented navigation for some time on it, yet left it impassiible with sledges. Ill case of waiting at Pello, we ran the chance of not arriving at Torneo until a |)eriod, which would occasion too long an interval between the obscrvatioi's alaady made and those we had to make there ; we even risked losing the star, by the >un, which was ap- proaching it, merging it in its rays. It would then be necessary to return in the midst of winter, to take fresh observations of some other star upon Kittis ; but it was apparently neither practicable nor possible to pass whole nights taking observations during the winter on that mountain. By settin? off, we ran the risk of being surprised by the ice in the river, and detained with all the instruments ; thfte was no computing wnere, nor how long : ve risked as well the rendering fruitless o«ir observations at Kittis, and we readily perceived how difficult it would be to repair such a loss, in a country where observations can so seldom be made, where throughout the summer we could not hope to see any of the stars which our sextant could embrace, from their smallness, and from the continual day, which ren- ders t** ;m invisible, and where the winter made the observatory of Kittis uninhabitable : we weighed all these difficulties, r.nd resolved to risk the voyage. Messrs. Camus and Celsius departed the twenty-third with the sextant ; the following day Messrs. Clairaut and Le Monnier ; and on the twenty-sixth M. L'AbbS Outhier and myself : we were fortunate enough to arrive by wa>er at Torneo the twenty-eighth of October, and were assured that the river had scarcely ever been navigable so late in the season. The observatory which we had caused to be prepared at Torneo was ready to receive the sextant, and it was placed there on a level with the meridian. The first of November it began to freeze hard, and the succeeding day the river was frozen over : the ice no longer melted, but was quickly white with snow ; and this vast river, which a few days before was covered with swans and various other water-fowl, was now no more than an immense plain of ice and snow. On the first of November we began to observe the star we had before observed at Kittis, and with the same care : the widest of these observations did not differ one second. These observations, as well as the former at Kittis, were made by day, without tWrow- ing light on the threads of the telescope : then taking a mean, reducing the parts of the micrometer into seconds, and having due regard to the change of the declension of the star, during the time elapsed between the observations, as well for the precession of the equinox as for the other motions of it, we found the amplitude of our arc 57 minutes 27 seconds. Our work now, as far as it could be, was complete ; it was stopped, without our being able to tell if we should find the earth lengthened or flattened, because we were unac- qudnted with the length of our base. What remained to do was not an operation diffi- cult in itself, it was only to measure with a rod the distance between the two signals that were raised the summer before ; but this measurement was to be made upon the ice of a Lapland river, in a country where the cold became daily more and more intolerable, and the distance to be measured was more than three leagues. We were advised to delay the measurement until the spring, because then, in addition to the length of the days, the first thaws which happened on the surface of the snow, which are quickly succeeded by a new frost, form a sort of crust capable of bearing men ; instead of which, during the coldest part of winter, the snow of these countries is I I 2 < ? t \ :!:i! inf 1 % \\ 244 jnirnvKY or MvrPF.nTtnH. nothing but a fine and dry powder, generally lour or five feet high, in which it is impos- sible to walk, when once that height \h attained. In spite ot what was every day before our eyes, we were fearful of being surprised by u thaw. We were ignorant of its being suHiciently in time, in the month of May, to measure the base, tmd all the advantages we sought in spring disiipjKared before the un- grounded fear of missing our measurement. In till' mean time we did not know whether the height of the snow would allow of our walking on the river between the signals of ihe base ; and Mi.'.ssrs. Clairaut, Outhicr and Celsius set off the tenth of Decemlxr to try. The snows were found alread) very high ; but as they did not leave us without hope of being able to measure, we nil dc- |)aried together for Oswer 'I'orneo. M. Camus, assisted bv L'Abbe Outhier, employed the nineteenth and twentieth ol" December in adjusting eight rods, of thirty feet each, by an iron toise which we had brought with us from France, and whiirh, during the adjustment, we took care to kee|) in a place where the thermometer of M. Reaumur was at 15 degrees above 0, and that of M. Prius at 62 degrees, which is the temperature of the months of April and May at Paris. Our rods once adjusted, the change which cold could effect in their length was not to be api)rchended, since we had observed that heat and cold caused upon our deal measures much less sensible changes than upon the length of iron. Every experiment that we tried gave us variations of length almost imperceptible. Some trials which we made give me reason to suspect diat cold possesses the quality of lengthening, rather than diminishing, the length of wootl, contrary to its known effect on metals. Possibly a remnant of sap, which was contained in the measures we used, froze, on being exposed to the cold, and caused it to participate the property of liquids, whose volume augments upon freezing. M. Camus took such pains in adjusting the; :> rods, that in spite of their extreme length, when they were placed between two gauges of iron, they fitted so exactly, that the thick- ness of a leaf of paper of the thinnest kind, additional or less, made the putting them be- tween them impossible, or left room. On Friday, the twenty-first of December, the wintry equinoctial day, a remarkable one lor such a work, we began the measurement of our base towards Avasaxa. The sun at that time sciircely rose by noon; but the long twilights, the whiteness of the snow, and the fires with which the heavens in this country are illuminated, afforded, us every day sufficient light to work during four or five hours. We left the house of r'le rector of Oswcr Torneo, where we lodged during this work, at eleven o'clock in the morning, and got on the river, when we were to begin the measurement, with such a number of sledges, and so numerous an equipage, that the Laplanders descended from their moun- tains to enjoy the novelty of the sight. We divided ourselves into two companies, each of which carried four of the measures we have spoken of. I shall say nothing of the fatigue, nor of the dangers of this operation : conceive what it must be, to walk in t\vo feet depth of snow, loaded with heavy rods, that we had to place continually upon the snow and take up again, and this during so intense a frost, that our tongues and lips froze to the gl^ss on drinking brandy, which was the only liquor which could be kept sufficiently liquid to drink, and could not be got away without taking off* the skin ; a frost which nipoed the fingtrs of some of us, and which continually threatened us with greater accidents. While our extremities were frozen, our labour made us sweat. Brandy did not slake out thirsts ; we were obliged to dig deep pits in tlie ice, which were almost as quickly closed, and from which the water could scarcely be brought in a liquid state to the mouth ; and we were obliged to run the risk of the dangerpus consequences which 5vere to be apprehended from tiiking this iced water at a time our bodies were so warm. r" ' »^t «■!»"»•«< ■ X > »< W < JOI'RXKV itV MAUPF.UTl l> 245 However, the work ndvaiK'ed : six days lal)our had l)rouf;ht il «> luar to an end, that no more than five hundred toises, which could not iyc marked with ^U'l^es sutlieiently soon, reniiiined to Ix* measun-d. The continuation of thi: measnrt iiicnt ihon wiii interrupted, the twenty-seventh, and while Messrs. Clairant, Camus and Le Moni/er busied them- selves in fixing the stakes, incomiKiny witli M. L'Abbc Uuthier, 1 employed the day in an enterprise rather singular. An observation of the slightest moment, and which in the most commodious coutitrics might l>c overlooked, had Ixen neglected the summer iiefo. e ; the heiglu of an object used on Avasaxa, in taking the angle formed by Cuita|)cri and Hoirihikero, [lad not beett ob- served. The desire which actuated us, that nothing shor.ld l)c wanting in our work, ini|)elled us to be scrupulously exact. I undertook to asc'Jiid Avasaxa with a quadrant. Figure to yourself a very lofty mountain, full of rocks, hid l;y u prodi«;ious ({uantity of snow, and the cavities made by which, alike concealed, tb-.aten the adventurer who should attempt to ascend it with destruction ; it will be deemed impracticable ; nevertheless, there are two modes of effecting it ; the one, by walking or rather sliding on two narrow planks of eight feet long, us the Kins and Laplanders do, in order toprcvent their sinking into the snow, a custom that requires a long icticc ; the other, by trusting to the rein- deer, who are able to make such a journey. These animals are not able to draw any otner thsin a very small boat, into which the half of the body of a man can with difficulty enter: this boat, designed for travelling through the snow, in order to find the least resistance from it, in cutting it with its prow, and sliding over, is fashioned the same as Ixxits used at sea, that is to aay, with a pointed prow and a sharp keel below, which causes it to roll and overturn continually, unless he who is within be careful in preserving a balance. The boat is fastened by a thong of leather to the breast of the rein-deer, who, if upon a beaten and firm track, runs with fur}'. However desirous of stopping him, you pull in vain at a kind of bridle fastened to his horns ; intractable as he is, it causes him only to change his road, sometimes even he comes back, to be revenged by kicking you. On such occasions the Laplanders turn the boat over them, making it serve as a shield against the rage of the animal. For our Kart, little able to employ such a remedy, we should have been killed before we could uve shielded ourselves. Our only defence was a little stick that was put in our hand, with wliich we had to steer as with a rudder, and shun the trunks of trees. Thus trusting to the rein-deer it was that I ascended Avasaxa, in company with M. L'AbbS Outhier, two Laplanders, one Lapland v/oman, and Mr. Brunnius, their rector. The first part of the voyage was completed in an instant, there was a hard beaten road leading from the house of the rector to the foot of the mountain, which we passed over ^vith a swiftness comparable only to the flight of a bird. Although the mountain, on which there was no road, delayed the progress of the rein-deer, they drew us to the top, and we completed immediately the observation, the object of our journey. In the interval, our rein-deer had dug deep holes in the snow, where they grazed ihe moss with which the rocks of this mountain are covered ; and our Laplanders having kindled a great fire, we approached it to warm ourselves. The cold was so severe, that the heat had no power to extend itself the shortest distance ; if in such places as the fire immediately touched the snow it melted, it froze again all around it, and formed a hedge of ice. If our troubles were great in ascending Avasaxa, our fear of returning too quick over a craggy mountain was not less ; exposed in carriages which always slided, even while sunk into the snow, and drawn by animals which excited our apprehensions even on the plains, and which, notwithstanding ihey sunk to their bellies, extricated themselves 246 jovntiry or MAUPERTrw. I' 1 1 bv the velocity of thrir course. Wc were shortly Ht the foot of /ivasaxa ; and in a minute ahcrvvimls we had pas-scd the frrcat river, and were housed. The following duy we finisned the measure of our base, and had no ripjht, when wc saw the precision that our level had afforded us, to regret the trouble which our mea- surement on a frozen river had caused. The difference foiuid Ix'twecn the measurenicnt of our two parties amounted to no more than four inches on a distance of seven thousand four hundred and six toiscs five feet ; a precision which wc could not exp' f'', and winch one should almost fear to tell. Neither can it be considered as the result of chance, or compensations for more considerable former differences ; for th'is smiill one ahnost wholly arose during the last day. Our two parties measured daily by the same nunil)cr of toiaes, and on none did the difference of the two measurements exceed an inch, which sometimes one exceeded the other, and at other times the reverse. This nicety, although due to the ice, and the extreme care wc employed, shewed at the same time the exactness of the lengths of our rods ; for the st*;y formiiipf a larjfc scnrf of clear uikI movini^ iight, whose extamitics irach to the lioiizon, and which ra|)i(lly traverses the heavens with u motion re^embHng the cast of a tt taken, die angle between the two sights was 5 de- grees 29 mindtes 48 ateconds 95. By calculation the angle should have been 5 degrees 29 minutes 50 seconds, that is to say, it differed from the angle observed by 1-rs second. It will no djubt be thought surprising, that a sextant of 5 degrees i'9 minutes SG-J. seconds, in a climate so temperate as that of I^ondon, and divided in a chamber which certrunly vas not cold, should be found precisely of th: same angle at Tomeo, when we tried it. The parts of die sextant were certainly conti acted by the cold in this last expe- riment} but one's surprise will vanish, on consideration that the instrument being made wholly of die same matter, its parts would contract proportionally, and consequently its figure remain the same, which was the case. Having thus found such a wonderful exactness in the whole arc of our se^jtant, we wished to know if the two degrees of its limb which we used, the one for /, the other for a, were perfectly equal. M. Camus, whose ingenuity had already been so useful to us on several occasions, procured us the means of making this comparison with all possi- ble exactitude ; and having compared together our two degrees, the mean of the obser- vations, taken by five observers, gave 1 second more for the degree of the limb used in taking /, than that used for «, 1 JOURVEY OF MAUPERTUIS. 251 We were surprised, when we saw that this inequality between the two degrees tended to diminish the very trifling difference found between our two amplitudes, reducing it from 3i seconds to 2| seconds; and it will be seen in the detail of the operations, that this difference between the two degrees of the limb, however small, may be accounted for by the means used to discover it. Thus wc verified, not only the total amplitude of our sextant, but olso different arcs, which we compared together ; and this proof from arc to arc, joined to that of the total which we had made, satisfied us that notliing had been left to wish for beyond in the con- struction of the instrument, and that so great a precision could not have been expected. We did not know what else to imagine as necessary for the measurement of the degrer of the meridian ; for I shall not say any thing here of our experiments on gravity, a matter equally important, and which we treated with equal care. It will be sufficient now to say, that if disposed to follow the example of Messrs. Newton, Huygcns, and some others, among whom I scarcely dare to name myself, one might be disposed to compute the figure of the earth by gravity. Every experiment wc made in the frozen zone will shew the earth to be flattened ; which is confirmed also by what we learn of the experiments made by Messrs. Godin, Bouguer, and La Condamine, on the torrid zone. In die mean time the sun drew nearer to us, or rather no longer left the horizon : it was a singular sight to behold it so long illuminate a frozen horizon, to see the summer in the heavens, while rigid Avinter grasped the earth : we were then in the morning of that long day which lasts for several months : in the mean time it did not seem that the continued sun caused any change in either ice or snow. On the sixth of May it began to rain, and some water was perceptible on the frozen river. Every day at noon the snow melted, and every night winter resumed its sway- At length, on the tenth of May, the earth was visible, unseen for such a length of time : some elevated points, exposed to the sun, began to appear, like the summits of the moun- tains after the Hood, and soon after the birds, natui^ to the country, were seen again. Towards the beginning of June the ice gave up both land and sea : we immediately turned our thoughts to our return to Stockholm, and departed the ninth of June, some by land, and some by sea ; but the rest of our adventures, or our shipwreck in the Gulf of Bothnia, do not belong to this subject. ► ,| >de- :din ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY TO THE EXTREMITY OF LAPLAND, FOR THE PURPOSE OF FINDING AN ANCIENT MONUMENT. [BY M. MAUPERTUIS.] WHILST we were at Pello, where the arc of the meridian which we had measured terminated, the Fins and Laplanders frequently spoke to us of a monument, which they looked upon as the wonder of their country, and in wliich they conceived was contained the knowledge of every thing of which they were ignorant. , This monument was re- ported to be situated from twenty-five to thirty leagues towards the north, in the middle of a vast forest, which separates the Gulf of Bothnia from the ocean. To arrive there one is obliged to be drawn over the snow by rein-deer, in those danger- ous sort of carriages called pulkas, of which I already have given a description in the account of our observations. Although it was the month of April, there was yet a risk of being frozen in the deserts, where there was no hope of finding an asylum ; and this risk was to be undertaken upon the assertions of Laplanders. I am almost ashamed to tell that I undertook it. The want of occupation, during a, K K 2 252 JOURNEY OP IMAUPERTUia. Stay which we were obliged to prolong in these countries till the season for our depar- ture ; a disposition from curiosity of penetrating to the centre of Lapland ; the most slender hope of seeing the only monument of this description perlraps extant in the world, with the habitude which we had of encountering hardships and danger ; these perhaps may excuse me. I resolved then on going, imd had the good fortune of being accompanied by M. Celsius, who, to a most profound acquaintance with astronomy, joined a profound knowledge of the northern languages, and who had made a parti- cular study of Runic inscriptions, to which we thought thb which was spoken of to us might have some relation. It perhaps may be pleasing to know the method used in travelling in Lapland. In the beginning of winter the roads conducting to frequented places are marked vviili branches of fir : scarcely have the sledges and pulkas beaten the first snow which covers the road, and begun to hollow it, before a succeeding fall, driven by the wind, fills it, and brings it to a level w-th the surface of the country, lake, or river. The next car- riages that pass beat again the way, which other falls of snow cover anew, and these roads, alternately hollowed by carriages, and filled by the wind, ihat reduces everywhere the snow to a level, although not more raised thiui the circumjacent parts, forn., neverthe- less, causeways or bridges of compressed snow, from which, by varying to the right or left, one is engulfed by the snow. Great care is taken not to swerve from these roads, and mostly towards the middle they are hollowed by a kind of furro^v , made by the pulkas travelling over them ; but in the midst of forests and unfrequented places no such roads exist. The Fins and Laplanders only find each other by marks cut on trees. Sometimes the rein-deer plunges up to the horns in snow ; and in diese places, if over- taken by one of those storms, during which the snow falls in such quantity, and driven by the wind on every side in such manner, that it is impossible to see two steps from one, it would be impossible to find again the way passed over, or to pursue one's course ; destruction must infallibly follow, and above all, if not provided with tents, as we were, to shelter us from part of the storm, While on our journey, our Laplanders, fruitful in wonderful stories, related to us on this subject many accounts of men, who had been taken up into the air in these storms, with their pulkas and their rein-deer, and precipitated sometimes on rocks, at others into the middle of the lakes. I left Pello the eleventh of April, 1737, and arrived in the evening at Kingis, which is twelve or fifteen French leagues distant. I did not stop there, being desirous of getting to the place where rein -deer were to be provided for me as soon as possible ; I therefore proceeded five leagues farther, and slept at Pellika ; this is one of the houses which forms the village of Payala. In these countries villages are composed of no more than two or three houses, each some leagues distant from the other. I there found six rein-deer, with their pulkas ; but as we could yet go three leagues further in sledges, I reserved our horses for the next day, to carry us to Erckiheicki, to which place I sent forward the rein-deer to wait for me. In these unfortunate climates, incessantly burnt during the summer by the rays of the sun, which never goes down, and afterwards during the winter wrapt in profound and continual night, one could not expect to meet with such an agreeable asylum as that we found. The house called Pellika, in spite of its remoteness from the inhabited world, was one of the best I had met with in the country ; we stretched out skins of bears and rein-deer, on which we prepared ourselves, by taking a little rest, for the fatigues of our next day's journey. Long before sun-rise I left Pellika on the twelfth of April, and soon arrived at Ercki- heicki, where I stopped no longer than was necessary to leave our sledges, and get tied ■■MM**! tWMMMbi JOl nXEY OF MALPEUTUIS. o rr ■■> in our pulkas ; a precaution, without which, when the icin-deer is at its speed, one should not long remain in the carriapjc. At this season, however, our precautions against the rapidity of the rein-deer were superfluous : they were no longer those ungo- vernable deer which drew me la ' summer with such swifniess over the river, and almost flew with me from the top of Avusaxa. Their former smooth horns were now no other than white and dry bones, which one might mistake for parched ribs of dead animals : their bones came through their skin, and they looked as though incapable of dragginj^* tis a hundred steps. The difference of the seasons was the cause of this change. When they drew me to Avasaxa they came from Norway, where, during the summer, they had nothing else to do but to feed and get fat : at that period I would advise no one to travel in pulkas ; but at the present season, after having undergone ail the toil of winter, and returned from the Lapland fairs, we had nothing to fear from the rein-deer, unless it were to be left belund. If it be difficult to stop this animal when in its full strength, at the time of his exhaustion it is not less difficult to make him proceed. We travelled thus dragged through a forest, having eight or nine leagues to go : tliere was no road which led to the spot we were going to, which made it so much the more laborious for the rein-deer ; at every short interval we were obliged to suffer them to rest, and give them moss, which we had brought with us : this moss is their only food. The Laplanders mixed it with ice and snow, and form very hard cakes of it, which serve at the same time as food and beverage for the animal, who gnaws it with avidity. In spite of this, we were under the necessity of leaving a deer on the road : he was tied to a tree, and some of these cakes left beside him. We ourselves were much incommoded by the uneasy posture which we were obliged to assume in these pulkas : the only amusement afforded us during this tiresome journey was in noticing in the snow the footsteps of the different animals, with which the forests are filled : we easily distinguished the different ones, and saw with surprise the number of various animals which had passed in a very short space during a few days. We saw on the road many snares laid for ermines, in some of which were prisoners. The Laplanders tie to a tree, whose top is cut oft" level vwth the height of the snow, a log of wood, covered by another ready to fall, beneath which a small passage is left for the ermine, and which, upon its entering to eat the bait that is set for him, falls on and crushes him. It is thus that ermines, which are very plentiful in Lapland, are snared : these animals are cinnamon-coloured in summer, having only the belly and tip of the ears white : \vc frequently met with such on the banks of lakes and rivers, where I ima^ne they watch for fish, of wluch they are particularly fond ; sometimes even we have found them swimming in the middle of the water. In winter they become entirely white ; which was the case of those we found in the snares. However, upon leaving Tomeo, a tame ermine that I had in the house had already lost its white in n any places ; and on my return some days afterwards I found it perfectly gray. It is true, if ii be the cold, which, by any cause whatever, whitens them, those which were exposed to the air should natu- rally remain longer white than those shut up in a house : perhaps the ermines found by us had been caught some time ; for, as may be conceived, frozen animals are preserved all the winter. In the packages of ermines sold by the Laplanders, when the skins are turned inside out, there are always a number of gray, or spotted with gray, which are not used for trimmings. We arrived at Keyma, situated at the foot of a little mountain called Winso, at one. o'clock in the afternoon : we ascended it ; it was there we were to find the monument we were seeking, but it was covered with snow. Our Laplanders sought for it without ft-i 254 JOUnXEY OF MAUPRBTnS. being able to find it, and I began to repent me of having undertaken so fatiguing a voyage upon such suspicious information, wlien, after a long search, it was discovered : I caused part of the snow to be removed, and lighted a great fire, for the purpose of melting the remainder, in order that we might examine this pretended wonder. It is a stone, of which a part of irregular form advances out of the earth to the height of a foot and a half, and is about three feet broad : one of its faces is tolerably even, and forms a surface not altogether vertical, but which makes an acute angle with the horizon. On this face are two very straight lines of characters, rather more than an inch long, and which !'-e cut tolerably deep into the stone, like notches made by the stroke of an axe in wood, or a chisel, being broad at the surface, and ending at the bottom with an acute angle. At the bottom, and out of the two lines, arc some larger characters ; in spite of all the signs which these characters shew of having been engraved with iron, I dare not venture to affirm whether they be the work of man, or a sport of nature. I leave to those who have made a longer study than myself of ancient monuments, or who may be more bold than me, to decide this question. If the resemblance of several of these characters, and even of many which succeed each other, appear to discounte- nance their bein^ letters, I should not therefore conclude that such characters were without signification. If we mark one, eleven, one hundred and eleven, &c. in Arabic figures, it will readily Ije seen what different meaning may be made by the addition of a similar character. The most ancient inscriptions of China are composed of no more than two characters, and one cannot doubt of these being the work of man, or of their containing a meaning, should they be no other, as some with much apparent reason imagine, than arithmetical works. If the tradition of the country be consulted, all the Laplanders assure us that they are characters of ^eat antiquity, containing valuable secrets ; but what can one believe in regard to antiquity from those people, who even do not know their own age, and who for the greater part are ignorant who were their mothers. M. Brunniers, their rector, speaks of this monument, in a dissertation that he has caused to be printed upon the town of Tomeo and the neighbouring country : he looks upon it to be a Runic inscription, and relates that there were formerly three crowns on it, effaced now by time. But M. Cebius, very well acquainted with the Runic, could not read these characters, and found them to differ from all the inscriptions subsisting in Sweden ; and as for the crowns, if there ever were any, time has effaced them in such a manner, that no vestige of them remains. The stone on which these lines are engraved is composed of different beds ; the charac- ters are written on a species of flint, while the rest, and above all between the two lines, seems to be of a stone more soft and foliated. However it may be, M. Celsius and myself copied separately, and with care, all that we could discern. 1 —am JorUNKV OF MAt'PEKTUIS. 25.'; Should it be no other than u sport of nature, the reputation which the stone bears iu this country deserves that we should have given the description of it. This stone does not certainly possess the beauty of the monuments of Greece or Rome : but if what is on it be an inscription, it very possibly has the advantage of being the oldest in the universe. The country in which it is found is inhabited only by a race of men, who live like beasts in the forests : we cannot imagine that they can have ever had any memorable event to transmit to posterity, nor, if ever they had had, that they could ever have invented the means. Nor can it be conceived that this country, with its present asjx^ct, ever possessed more civilized inhabitants. The rigour of the climate, and the barrenness of the land, have destined it for the reU-eat of a few miserable wretches, who know no other. It seems therefore that our inscription must have been cut at a period when this country was situated in a different climate, and before some one of those great revolutions, which we cannot doubt have taken place in our globe. The position that its axis holds at present, with respect of the ecliptic, occasions Lapland to receive the sun's rays very Dbliquely ; it is thereby condemned to a winter long, and fatal to man, as \vell as to all the produc- tions of nature ; its laud is barren and a desert. No great movement possibly in the heavens was necessary to cause all its misfortunes. These regions may formerly have been those on which die sun shone most favourably : the polar circles may have been what now the tropics are, and the torrid zone have filled the place now occupied by the temperate. But how could the situation of the axis of the earth be changed ? If attention be paid to the motion of the celestial bodies, but too many causes may be seen, capable of producing this and even greater changes. If the knowledge of anatomy, of all the parts and all the springs which cause the mo- tion of our bodies, occasions those acquainted with it to wonder how the machine can possibly last so long, the same may be said of astronomy. The knowledge of the celes- tial '"^ivciTjents discovers to us many causes, which could effect, not only upon our cnvth, but on the general system of the universe, material changes. The varition in the obliquity of the ecliptic, which several astronomers consider as demonstrated by the observations of the ancients, compared with our own, might of itself, after a long lapse of ages, have produced changes similar to those we speak of. The obliquity at which the equator of the earth at present cuts the ecliptic, which at pre- sent b no more than 23 V degrees, may possibly be the remainder of a much greater obliquity, during which the poles may have been in the temperate or the torrid zone, and have had the sun at their zenith. Whether there may have been such changes, or more sudden ones, it is certain there have been some. The print of fish, and fish themselves petrified, which are found in countries most remote from the sea, and even upon the summits of mountains, are in- contestible proofs of these places having been formerly low, and covered with water. Sacred history teaches us that the waters formerly covered the highest mountains. Suca an inundation it would be difficult to imagine, without the transposition of the centre of gravity of the earth, and of its climates. If repugnant to the allowance of such changes, the inscription at Winso may be con- ceived to owe its ori^n to some event as singular as our voyage. An inscription, which should contain the history of the operation which we went to this country to effect, might in some future day, perhaps, be as obscure as this is now ; and if all the sciences were to be lost, who could then discover, who could imagine, that such a monument had been the work of Frenchmen ; and that what was cut thereon was the measurement of the degrees of the earth, and the soludon of its figure. in .^> :ji M f 1 J5G JOURNF.Y OF MArrr.nTns. I leave my reflections and the moiuimeiit to the conjectures which may be entertained on them, and take up the thread of my relation. After we had copied what wc found ont he stone, we embarked in our pulkas, to return to Erckiheicki. This journey was still more f.ttiguinjir than it had Ixen in the morning : the posture in the pulkas is so very incommodious, that it gives the sensation of a broken back after a few hours ; not- withstanding, wc were so seated continually from four in the morning luitil one in the afternoon. Our return was still longer ; our deer stopped every minute, and the moss wc carried with us being all consumed, wc were obliged to seek some. When the snow is in powder, which is the Ciisc till spring, although it cover the earth entirely ton great depth, a rein-deer difs himself a stable in a moment, and brushing away the snow on all sides, discovers the is' which is hid at the bottom. It is pretended that the animal has a particular instinct for iiuding the moss so covered with snow, and that he is never de- ceived when he makes his hole ; but the state of the surface of snow hindered my ascer- taining whether this account be true or false. As soon as this surface has been thawed by the power of the sun, the frost which succeeds freezes it, and forms a crust sufficiently hard to bear men, deer, and even horses ; but when so hardened, the rein-deer being unable to penetrate it, the Laplanders are obliged to break it ; and this is the total of the returns which they make them for their services. These rein-deer deserve that we should say something of them ; they are a kind of deer, whose spreading horns branch out before the forehead ; they seem designed by nature to satisfy all the wants of the Laplanders; they serve them instead of horses, cows, and sheep. The rein-deer is fiistened to a small boat, called a pulka, pointed before, to cut through the snoW; uud a man, in a posture half-sitting and half-lying in this carriage, may go with great s\)eed, provided he does not fear overturning, or being ingulfed in the snow. Tb*; flesh of them is excellent to eat, either fresh or dried. The milk of the doe is rather sharp, but as thick as the cream from cows' milk : it is capable, when frozen, of being preserved for a long time, and the Laplanders make cheeses of it, which however would be much better than they are, if more care and cleanliness were used in making them. The skin of the deer serves for all sorts of clothing : that of the young ones, covered with a yellowish hair, a little curly, forms a very soft lining for the clothes of the Fins : when older, the hair becomes brown, when those dresses are made of it, so well known over Europe by the name of Lapmades ; they are worn with the hsur outwards, and are a very light and warm dress, f he skin of the old deer is prepared in the same manner as that of bucks and does, and makes excellent gloves, the finest waistcoats, and most handsome girdles. The Laplanders make the nerves and guts, by twisting them, into thread, which is the only kind they use. To conclude, that every part of them may be serviceable, they offer their horns m sacrifice to their deities. Being returned from Pellika after having experienced much fatigue, cold, and tire- someness, we left it again on the thirteenth, early in the morning, and arrived by nine o'clock at Kingis. This place, although a wretched one, is rather more known than the others, by tlie iron forges in it : the ore is brought there during the winter by rein-deer, from the mines of Ju- nesvando and Swappawara. These forges are worked only for a short part of the winter, the extreme frost not allowing the wheels to act upon the bellows and hammers. Kingis is situated on a branch of the river Tomeo, which has a dreadful cataract before it, im- passable for boats. The masses of ice and foam precipitated with violence, and forming » cascade, the edges of which appeared like crystal, formed a most noble spectacle. After JOUnNEY OF ,>rAirrF,nTUIS. J I be dining with the clergyman rt Kingis, M. Aiuilius, wc left it, and arrived in the i vining at Pcilo, wiicrc wc slept in the same liousc that \\x liad resided in so much, and uliich we beheld very likely the last time. Proceeding from Kt ngis we met upon the river several caravans of Laplanders, ear. r}'ing skins and fisii to Pcllo, which they had been bartering for at tiic fairs of Upper Lapland with the merchants of Toriico. These caravans formed long files of pulkas : the first rein-decr, who is guided by a Laplander on foot, draws the first piilka, to \\'hich the second rein-deer is fastened, and in like manner the remainder, to the number of thirty or forty, who every one follow exactly in the little furrow traced in die sno^v by the first, and deepened by all the rest. When they are tired, and the Laplanders have pitched on a spot where they mean to encamp, they form, with the deer fastened to their pulkas, a large circle : every one makes his bed in the snow on the middle of the river, and the Laplanders distribute moss among them : they themselves are little more difli- cult in their accommodation ; many are satisfied with lighting a fire, and lie on the river, while their wives and children fetch from their pulkas some fish for their supper; others erect a kind of tent, a receptacle worthy of a Laplander, l)eing no other than miserabli rags of a coarse woollen cloth, rendered by smoke as black as if it had been dyed ; it is fastened round certain stakes, which form a cone, with an opening at the top, which serves for a chimney. There the most voluptuous, stretched on bear and rcin-dcer skins, pass their time in smoking tobacco, and looking with contempt on the occupations of the rest of men. These people have no other dwelling than tents ; all their wealth consists in their deer, which live on nothing but a moss that is not everywhere to be found. When their herd has stripped the summit of one mountain, they are obliged to conduct them to another, thus obliged to live continually wandering in the deserts. Their forest, dreadful in winter, is even less fit for Uving in in summer : an innumerous swarm of flies of every description infect the air; they follow men by the smell from a great dis- tance, and form around every one who stops an atmosphere so thick as to exclude the light. To avoid them, it is necessary to be continually moving without rest, or to burn green trees, which causes a thick smoke, and drives them away by its becoming insupportable, as it is almost to man himself: and lastly, they are sometimes obliged to cover their skin with the pitch that exudes from the firs. These flies sting shar[»ly, or rather many of them frequemly occasion real wounds, from which the blood flows abundantly. During the time that these insects are most violent, that is to say, in the two months which we passed in forming our triangles in the forest, the Laplanders fly to the coists of the ocean with their rein-deer, to get free from them. I have not yet spoken of the appearance or size of the Laplanders, of which so many fables have been related. Their dimiqutiveness has been greatly exaggerated ; it is im- possible to exa^erate on their ugliness. The rigour and length of a winter, agt-inst which they have no other shelter than what the wretched tents afford which I have de- scribed, in which they make a blazing fire, which scorches them on one side, while they are frozen on the other : a short summer, but during which they are incessantly burnt by the rays of the sun ; the barrenness of the ground, which produces neither grain, nor fruit, nor pulse, seem to have caused a degeneration of the human race in these climates. As to their size, they are shorter than other men, although not so much so as some travellers have related, who make pygmies of them. Out of a great number of men and women that 1 saw, I measured a v/oman, apparently of twenty-five or thirty yealrs of ^e, and who suckled an infant, which she carried in the bark of a birch-tree : VOL. I. L I. i>:' 2:) 3 .rOIUyKV OF MAriTHTIIS. she seemed to Ix; in j^ood licaltli, and well proportioned, according to the idea I formed of the proportions of their btature; she was four feel two inches five parts high, and certainly she was one of the smallest I met with, yet without apixiaring from her dimi- luiliveness either deformed or cxtraordinjiry in that country. People may have deceived themselves as to the stature, or large heads of Laplanders, who have not made die ob- servations which I did, in spite of the general ignorance of their ages that prevails among them. Children, who from their tenderest youth have dicir features disfigured, and frequently the appearance of litUe old men, begin very early to conduct their pulkas, and to follow the sjime labours as their fathei-s. I suspect the greater part of travellers have formed their judgment of the size of Laplanders, and of the largeness of dieir heads, from those of the children ; and I myself have frequently been nearly deceived in this point. I do not mean to deny that Laplanders are shorter than other men, for the greater part; but that I esteem their shortness to have been stated as too great in the relations of travellers, owing to the error I have mentioned, or possibly to that in- clinalion toward the marvellous, which is so predominant. To me there seems to be a head difference between us and them, which is a great deal. A country immediately contiguous to Lapland produced a real wonder, of an oppo- site description. The giant exhibited at Paris, in 1735, was born in a village but little distant from Tomeo. The academy of sciences having caused him to be meiisured, found him to be six feet eight inches eight lines in height. This Colossus was made up of matter sufficient to have formed four or five Laplanders. * I ii JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO THE NOUTH, IN TIIK YRAIIS I7J6 AND 1737 [By M. Outh'ter. Newly translated from the original. Paris, 17 U, quailo.J Is the earth lengthened or oblate at the pies ? This b the famous question so lonf; agitated among the learned, which neither the ingenious systems conceived by different persons, nor geometrical and astronomical observations up to 1735, have been sufficient to decide. The best mode of terminating the dispute was, to measure imder the etiuator, and at the polar circle, one or more degrees of the meridian, by trigonometrical and astronomical observations, of the cxactest nicety. M. Le Comte de Maurepas, always busted in contributing to the advancement of the sciences, and the welfare of commerce and the state, obtained for the gentlemen of tlu; academy of sciences all the assistance necessary from his majesty, towards making obser- vations, the result of which was im^iortant, as well to the perfection of the sciences, as the greater security of navigation. Tne academy received the orders of his majesty ; all the necessary instruments weix- constructed. Although at that time France had to stistain a war of magnittide, no ex- pence was spared ; several members of the academy set off" in the month of May 1735, for Peru, under the equator ; M. de Maupcrtuis offered himself for th^ voyage to the polar circle. Its length, the excessive fatigue incident thereon, the risks he iiad to run, nothing lessened his zeal : Messrs. Clairaut, Le Monnier, and Camus, of the academy, were associated with him ; he did me also the honour to ask for me to accompany him. Although before-hand prejudiced against the norUiern climates, I left immediately, and witliout hesitation, the agreeable society of the lord bishop of Bayeux, v/ith whom I was, to join him. We were not to leave Paris before April 1736 ; nevertheless, I went there in the beginning of December 1735 : M. Celsius, professor of astronomy at Upsal, was to join us on the road. M. de Maupcrtuis requested as well of M. Le Comte de Maurepas, to have M. Sommereux for secretary, and M. d'Herbelot as draughtsman. The four or five tnonths preceding our departure were passed in overlooking the con- struction of the instruments which we required, and in providing whatever might be useful to us on our voyage : We made also upon the simple pendulum many observa- tions, the corresponding ones to which we were to make at the polar circle. It was there that M. de Maupcrtuis had resolved to go, to make his experiments for ascertaining the figure of the earth ; but for a long while he was un ' ♦^erml . ' whether it should be in Iceland, on the coasts of Norway, or towards the jttom * . the Gulf of Bothnia. The best maps have a great number of islands described along the v oasts of this gulf, which promised to be advantageous to the work to be effected ; in consequence M. de Maupcrtuis gave it the preference, and requested of M. Le Comte de Maurepas to obtain the orders of his majesty, the necessary recommendations, and to cause advice to be sent to Sweden. The answer was no sooner received than we immediately prepared for our departure. All the instruments were ready, and packed with care. The carrier which conveyed them was accompanied, as far as Dunkirk, by a servant which M. de Maupcrtuis took with him ; he as well had four others, one of whom had before been at Stockholm, and understood the Swedish language. As soon as the day of our depiu"ture was settled, L L 2 260 OUTIIIF,U'« JOURNAt, OK wc took all the places of the St. Omer's i>ost coach, for Friday, twentieth of April, 1730. We set ofl", Messrs. dc Maupcrtuisj, Clairaut, and Camus, of the academy of sciences, Messieurs Soinmcrcux, lltrbclot, and myself, by the post coach, on Friday the twentieth of April, with four serviuits. M. Le Monnicr, who had been dctiiincd by business, followed ill a scpaiatc ciirriapc, and overtook us before wc arrived at Louvre, where wc dined with Messrs. Nicoli and Hellot, of tlie atuuleiny of sciences, who uccompHnicd us so far ; we passed by Senlis, and arrived to sleep ut Pont St. Maxcnce. On Saturday the twenty-iirst we dined at (ioumay, where there is a fine castle, with canals and beautiful iountnii^s ; and slept at a small town, called Rove. On Sunday the twenty- second we dined at Myaucour, and slept ut Perenne. It is a pretty town ; the ram- parts, mostly of tmf, forni afj^recuble prominudes ; the town is surrounded bv a great ileal of water, and marshy lands. \Ionday the twenty-third we dined at jfiapaume, and slept at Arras : wc .irrived tiiere early, and went to see the abbey of St. Vaast, its library, and treasury ; in which was shewn to us a thorn of the holy crown, and a bit of the sponge. Tuesdiiy the twenty-fourth wc dined at Souchet, and slept nt Bethune, a very hand- some town, with good fortifications. Wednesday the twenty- i wc dined at Aire, and slept at St. Omer's ; both these towns arc handsome, large, and have very clean streets. ^ t St. Omer's we saw die abbey of St. Bertin and its church ; in it, on the summit of a pillar, are the toad and lizard, the history of which is known to every one. Thursday morning the twenty-sixth we embarked on tlic canal in a very pretty boat ; wc dined ut Bourbourg, and continued our route in the same boat to Dunkirk. Wc made a quick passage, with sails set all the way, and a favourable wind. Near Dunkirk we found, on the banks of the canal. Dr. Lythenius, a Swedish physician, who came to France with M. Lc Comtc dc Chronihelm, a Swedish nobleman ; M. Le Comtc de Muurepas had Ciirected that they should both accompany us to Stockholm ; he also ordered M. de la Haye d' Anigemont, commissary of the marine at Dunkirk, to get ready a vessel for us, and store it with every thing needful. As soon as we arrived, we went to see the vessel which was to take us to Stockholm ; it was small, but safe, and abundantly provided with every thing necessary, M. d'Anglemont had taken a lodging for us at Dunkirk. Friday the twenty -seventh we dined at his house, in company with Messrs. de Jansac and d* Alembon. Sunday evening the twenty-ninth, while we were at supper, M. Celsius arrived from London ; he had seen M. de Maupertuis at Paris, and had taken upon himself to cause some instruments to be cojistnicted in England, which were of material service afterwards. On Wednesday the second of May Messrs. de Maupertuis, Clairaut, Camus, Le Monnier, Celsius, Sommereux, Herbelot, and myself, accompanied by M. Le Comte de Chronihelm, er half an hour Hew aw ay towards the west. We took an oljservation with the English instrument at noon, a<\d found the latitude 54 degrees ■14 minutes. The captain and like pilot, with the forcstanT, found it 54 degrees 36 mii\utes. At the beginning of the evening we saw u fine aurora b(»( oalis. The pilot remarked that it presaged a tempest. Saturday the tilth the weather became squally, and I was very sick. We observed af^ain the height of the sun with our English instrument, and found our latitude within a minute of our computation by the log. When the weather was ftne, although it was windy (as was almost always the case) we dined on tlK* deck ; it was sometimes so much inclined, that \m were frequently neiu" oversetting, dishes and all, which created some little confusion at our meals. All day, Sunday the sixth, the weather has been rather s(jually ; I have been continually sick, and unable to cat any thing. A wave broke, and nearly covered the deck : the captain ordered us to make haste into the cabin. Monday the seventh, which was Rogation Monday, the sea was very much swelled. The night very dark. The sea entirely covered with sparks of light. We hoisted up water in a pail, and agitating it with the hand, we distinguished a number of similar sparks, wliich followed the motion of the water, and for the most part sunk to the bottom of the bucket. A Norwegian ship, large, and of a bad appearance, as well as its sailtvrs on the deck, pursued us in an insolent manner astern, and going faster than us, would have run us down, had we not steered out of its way. Ihursday the tenth (Ascension-Day) very bad weather, we went ata ^reat rate, all on one side, from Skayen, very nearly to the Sound. The pilot has not lost sight all day long of a vessel which went before us, and has followed its track. Kept all day on deck, not bciuff able to bear shutting up ; was obliged to hold by the rigging on the upper part of the deck. Were so much inclined, that the gunwale was frequently under water. At night-fall the captain and pilot much embarrassed, afraid to enter the strait, and equally fearful of keeping out at sea, lest we should be driven by the ^vinds on the coasts. We reefed all sails, and passed a most horrid night, rolling dreadfully and continually. All the things in our lockers struck and rolled against each other. This situation appeared the more dreadful to us from its being new ; M. de Maupertuis kept all his presence of mind, and encouraged us by his serenity, and the liveliness of his wit. At length, on the eleventh, by two in the morning at dawn '"f day, we set sail, entered the strait, and anchored before Elsineur. Messrs. Le Monnier and Celsius disembarked, to proceed by land to Stockholm : Messrs. Chronihelm and Lythenius went on shore, as well to proceed to Gottenburg : Messrs. de Maupertuis and Camus accompanied the captain to Elsineur, to make their declaration. These gentlenicn learned of M. 262 OUTIIIF.n'H JOURNAL OF Alw, the French consul, th«t ours wiui the first Frcncli ship which had passed this year. Messrs. do Muupcrtuis and Camus, on their return at five in the evening, suid, U\ut when they first landixl, it was with ^reat difficulty they could keep on their legs. Elsiueur is a little town, almost wholly of wood ; the view of the strait from it is very pleasing. 'I'hcrv is a handsome canile with guns, under which one is obliged to pass : it Is a fine coiist, covered with verdure and trees. The Swedish coast on the north \h more dry and barren. Helsinborg is seen upon it, with u large tower, and terruce covered with etymon. Saturday morning the twelfth \vc passed the south-west side of the island of Huanc, formerly the residence of Tycho Uiahe. Where his observatory was bitUMted, there is no longer any thing remaining but a small house. The coiists of Sweden and Denmark were entirely covered with snow, which fell in the night. The night l)eing very dark, wc drew water in a bucket, but however much we dis- turbed it. It yielded no sparks : wc discovered as well that the water of the Baltic con- tained very little salt. On Monday the fourteenth, from eleven o'clock till noon, a halo round the sun was seen ; its radius, from the centre of the sun to its interior circumference, was 21 degrees 30 minutes, and to its exterior circumference 22 dcgrces 30 minutes. The external edge of the circle was confused, but the internal edge was distinctly marked, at least towards the zenith and the horizon. The same day I took an elevation at noon, and found the latitude 55 degrees 40 mi- nutes. The pilot found it no more than 55 dej^rees 30 minutes. Tuesday the fifteenth the sea was rruch swollen, although there was little wind ; wc were obliged to steer as near to it iis possible ; the vessel pitched dreadfully. The seventeenth a Swedish lx)at requested to accompany us ; but had great difficulty to keep up with us. As it was rather distant behind, M. de Maupertuis desired our captain to l)aek sails, and invite the master to dine with us. Our captain made a tack ; this manauivre is extremely simple ; by moving the rudder the vessel makes a small half circle, which is described on the water ; he then lowered sails, and waited. The master of the Swedish brigantine thanked us. Another Swedish vessel which wc spoke accompanied us to Dalheron. At eleven o'clock saw an aurora borealis, notwithstanding a clear moon light. On the nineteenth saw the tower of Lungsoort, situated on a point of land : the tower the farthest advanced is about six thousand toises more towards the south, tlian the place where wc took an elevation at noon ; found the latitude 59 degrees 15 minutes. Our pssage for the last four days delightful ; night and day we made a league an hour, without feeling the least motion. Dalheron is a large village, divided in two ; on the rocks on both sides the passage ; its houses, extremely small, of wood painted red, with their white chimnies, and their little glazed windows, offered a very pleasing spectacle. Near to Dalheron is a very handsome country house on the shore. As for the rest, the country on both sides the Lidt, or bed of the river (which is rather an arm of the sea) is frightful, being nothing but rocks extremely arid, with a few very small firs. Sunday the twentieth (Whitsunday) we followed the Swedish galliot, and another small vessel. I said mass, imd at the communion the pilot thundered out Domine, sahitm fac re^em nostrum Ludovictim, in which he was joined by all the assembly. No night ; at micliiiglit, I read in a book of very small letters. \ vovAfif, T« riiF. Miirrn 26.1 We piuiKcl by a Mn.ill NilLi^c oallid I.iiulal, and near to Ou.':yoiip, uliiic there U u cnstic n mile farther on. \Vc eiUenil a \ii} narrow ^traif, the current in which was rapid} the sallorh went on shore, to araju of the coasts of the Gulf of Botmiia, where we relied on making our expcrirutit*, In consequence, a beautiful draft of the western side v;as presented to as^ \'hich we carried with us: there was not before our departure sufficient time to complete the eastern side, but it was sent to us some days after. We went the same day to see the king's gardei); where we saw in green-houses orange- trees, with oranges on -J ein. We had before noticed in other gardens ivy, such a& creeps on our walls, rlautrd in pots, and which appeared to be Iiighly esteemed We then went to C /-lesberg, a royal palace, and, to Ulriksdale, another, where thqre is a tolerably large park, with plenty of game. THE CITY OP STOCKHOLMi Stockholm is a fine and large city ; all the houses of the city, ai:d part of those of the suburbs, are of stone, well built, and four or five stories high : the other part of the houses in the suburbs are of wood ; they are built with square beams placed- horizontally, laid one upon the other, their exti-emities Tossing at the angles of every apartment UUTHIBR'S JOUBNAL OF 265 which they make. These houses are painted in red, not only for neatness sake, but also to preserve them : above the timber- work planks are nailed, which are covered with birch-lxirk first, and aftenvards with turf or earth. Many of tlie stone houses are co- vered with iron plates, or wrought iron ; some are covered with cojjper, others with ridge tileb. To some of their windows they have Venetian blinds, which move on a pivot, so as to increase or diminish light at pleasure. Every night, after ten o'clock, a number of men parade the streets, crying or rather singing the hour, and afterwards a kind of prayer ; they watch as well to prevent any noise or disorder during the night ; they are armed with a staff, at the end of which is a machine with springs ; th^ use of it, to seize by the neck or the leg those whom they are desirous of stopping, or who insult them, and it is impossible to get loose from it. While we were at S'/nJtholm a fine palace for the king was being constructed. There arc in the town many I: iCtiome and large churches ; that of St. Catherine is perfectly new, and built witli a dome, the great altar of it is very handsome : 1 noticed there a painting of the Purification of the Virgin, very well executed. On one side of the altar IS Hope holding an anchor : on the other. Religion holding a cross and a chalice. They have in almost all their churches a very handsome pulpit, with an hour-glass. In the great church of St. Nicholas, close to the king's castle, there is a large paint- ing of the Judgment, thirty-three feet high by twenty-two broad. There is abo another, which represents Christ upon the Cross, all the circumstances of his passion being re- presented in different basso-relievos ; and a handsome statue of St. George. The church of St. James is in the same taste as tliat of St. Catherine, new, and nearly ofthe same shape. That of St. Claire is built similarly to ours ; it is beautiful and lai^. The chapel ofthe Russians, or Greek scliismatics, which is at the town-house, is of no consideration, and very badly lighted ; nevertheless there are many figures of saints gilt, and some sculpture, but badly proportioned, and somewhat after the Chinese taste : the sanctuary, where the altar is, is kept shut ; the priest opens and shuts it several times, in jierform- ing the office. At Stockholm are many Roman-catholics, who exercise their religion freely, in the chap'^ls ofH. E. the French ambassador and the envoy of the emperor. In the mean time we thought of our work, and of proceeding in as little time as possible to the most northern parts of the states of Sweden. We amused jurselves m looking about the city, only when we could not occupy ourselves in accelerating our voyage : every thing at length was ready ; M. de Maupertuis had made every necessary arrangement. At Stockholm he met with M. D'Hegreman, son-in-law of the burgo. master of Tomeo, a little town situated at the bottom of the Gulph of Bothnia, and through him he had secured a vessel to carry our luggage and instruments. M. de Maupertuis hired as well a servant, who spoke Swedish and French, beades which H. E. the ambassador gave one of his own ; and as our intention was that the operations should be carried on on the coasts of the gulf, his excellency insisted on our shipping his own boat in the vessel which carried our lu^age and instruments. M. Sommereux and most ofthe servants went on board, and sailed on Sunday the third of June. Monday the fourth, after dining with the ambassador, he presented us altogether, to take leave of the king of Sweden. We had bought two coaches, to travel from Stock- holm to Tomeo by land : M. de Maupertuis set off in one, with Messrs. Clairaut and Celsius, on Tuesdiay morning the fifth, to visit M. le Comte de Horn, who was at his country-house, and proceed thence to Upsal, where we were to meet togedier. M. de Maupertuis always intended that we should have pursued our route from Stockholm to Torneo by sea ; but we prevailed upon him to alterour plan» from the repugnance to the VOL. I. mm'* I 1 266 0UTHi!ia»8 JOURNAL OF •I' "is "i I sea which some of us manifested. It is true, the expence of travelling by land was not considerable. Coaches made entirely of wood, lined with fustian, and with common glass instead of plate, cost no more tha^^ five hundred livres a piece ; each horse in Swe- den is paid for after the rate of eight sous for a mile, which is equal to two French leagues, and in this manner we travelled ; this formed almost all our expence. Wednesdax the sixth, at eight o'clock in the morning, we set off in the second coach, Messrs. Camus, Le Monnier, Herbeloi, and myself; we went again to take leave of the ambassador, and left Stockholm at ni.jc o'clock. We changed horses at Rotebron, two miles off, that is to say, nearly four Fnsich leagues: the Swedish mile contains eighteen thousand Swedish ells, each ell one foe* ten inches of French measure. From Uotebron to Maestrad one mile and three quart; ;•« ; from Maestrad to Alsik one mile and three quarters : these are the names of the pieces where we changed horses. From Alsik is one mile and a half to Upsal, where we iv-rived at ten o'clock at night. It is seven miles from Stockholm to Upsai, through a country filled with rocks and small hills, covered with firs, among many branches or sinuosities made by the river of Stockholm. We passed a river to tlic north of Alsik in a flat boat ; and a little before our arrival at Upsal we entered a beat^^Uul wood of large firs, traversed by a road in a straight line. The roads from Stockholm to Upsal, and even as far as Tomeo, are fine, well kept, and marked at every quarter of a mii?: by a wooJen post, properly shaped, and painted ••d, on which is marked the number of miles and quarter of miles from Stockholm. Some ancient posts are found as well, or rather pillars of stones ; but within a few years th«* roads have been measured by the pole, and smce wooden posts have been placed. Frequently along these roads gates are met with, which shut in a most ingenious maimer. M. de Maupertuis soon after arrived, with Messrs. Clairaut and Celsius. On the seventh we all went together to see the governor of Upsal, who detaintu us to dinner. At the end of the repast white wine, in which orange and sugar were mixed, was handed round in a large glass ; every one drank from the same glass, which went round several times, first to the health of the governor and his lady, and afterwards other toasts. After dinner we went to see the great churcit, which is the cathedral, the university, and the garden of the castle ; and all of us supped with M. Celsius. The city of Upsal is rather large, most of its streets are perfectly straight. Except the cathedral a\.d seven or eight houses, which are of stone, all the other buildings are of wood, covered with birch-bark, and turf upon that : there are only the houses of the governor aqd the archbishop which are covered with birch-bark without turf; and throughout the remainder of the road towards the north they are as well without turf. On an eminence to the south of tlie city the castle stands in ruins, but the garden is yet handsome. Looking on the town from the castle, it has the appearance of a large gar- den, the streets of which, in straight lines, sufficiently resemble the alleys, and the houses covered with tuif the squares. A river passes through the city, the water of which 'y red. Over diis river there are two bridges, suspended to beams arching from one side of the river to the other. The cathedral is rather large, but ill paved : there is an excellent choir, a fine altar, with a great crucifix, and a very handsome pulpit : in the sacristy are ornaments suffi- ciently rich, among others a suit of black for Good Friday ; two chalices, one of which is of gold ; wood cf the real cross, on a great cross of silver gilt. In a chapel of the cathedral the tomb of St. Eric, king of Sweden, is seen, a martyr : both the tomb and the relics are greatly neglected. In the university arc four auditories, or apartments for teaching : there is a cabbet A VOYAGE TO I'HE NOUTII. 207 1 of rarities, and a tolerably good library. I noticed a quadrant of Hevelias ; it is ol" wood, divided into spaces of ten minutes, four feet and a half radius, with sights. Friday the eighth we went to the archbishop's, but he was then holding a consistory, and we could not see him : M. de Maupertuis returned there in the afternoon, or the next morning, and held a long conversation with him. If we had set off together we should frequently have been delayed at the stages, where we should scarcely have been able to meet with sufficient horses for our two coaches ; we therefore took the precaution of sending a servant before on horseback, who ordered the horses to be got ready for the first coach, and this gave information at the different stiiges where we changed, that another would follow in seven or eight hours, in order that the horses might be got ready, and we arrived the quicker at Torneo. Messrs. Camus, Herbelot, and myself, began our journey at five in the evening in the first coach. M. Meldecreutz, a Swede, who was fond of geometry, and spoke French, should have made the fourth, and promised to join us at Upsal ; he however did not come : he arrived not till some diiys after in a chaise with a young Swedish nobleman, son of M. de Cederstrom, secretary of state : this young nobleman, having a desire to see the country which we were going to, determined to take the opportunity of our expedition. We found about half a mile from Upsal, a little before our entrance into the wood, a church and some ruins, which we were told were Old Upsal. We changed horses at Hoystadt, one mile and a quarter from Upsal ; at Laby, one mile and a quarter from Hoystadt ; at Yffetel, two miles beyond Laby ; the road all the way excellent, but through a country made up of marshes and woods. We arrived at Yffetel a lit'Je before midnight ; we found some e^s, which we made them boil hard for us, and they formed our supper. We left it on Saturday the ninth, at two o'clock irj the morning, went through the woods as far as Mehede, a distance of two miles and a half, and always through woods imd low grounds, yet covered with water, from the thawing of the snow, to the great town of Elfskarby, one mile and a half beyond Mehede. To anive at this town it was necessar}^ we should pass over a great river, which has a handsome cataract, where there are iron founderies, in a boat. We left it at eleven o'clock, by a road through woods of fir, between lakes and rocks ; having passed a river by the way, over a bridge, we arrived at three in the afternoon at Geffle, which is two miles and a half from Elfskarby, and eighteen from Stockholm. Geffle is a pretty large town ; through it a river passes, over which is a wooden bridge ; vessels come up the river into the town. In the middle of the town are seen the remains of a stone castle, which seemed to have been somewhat grand. Some of the houses of the town are of stone, the remainder of wood, without turf on the roof. The enclosure of the tovni is the same as at Stockholm ; and at Upsal is a pallisado, with very neat wooden gates ; it encloses several large gardens ; by the remains of the church which was burnt, it appears to have been of size. "' We found a good inn at Geffle. After dinner we went to the governor's, who was absent : we begged his secretary to forward orders for our obtaining post-horses, and set off at six in the evening, before the coach of M de Maupertuis arrived. After half a league of open country, we at-jain met with woods atid rocks, as far as Troye, a mile and a half distant, where finding fresh horses, we went on, through a marshy and woody country, toHamrung, one mile and three quarters farther: we arrived there at eleven o'clock at night. We soon afit i sigain set off; we passed through veiy thick woods for the space of r-ix French leagues, in the midst of which arc some houses, oti the banks of the river Liusna, which vire crossed in 9 boat ; farther on we crossed uu2 If m iifl m I 268 OUTHIER'8 JOURNAL OP another ; afterwards we continued our route between lakes on the right and left, and arrived at Skoog, a three mile stage, at five in the morning. This night the gnats plagued us greatly : to get quit of them, we were obliged to draw up the glasses of the coach, when, the weather being extremely hot, we were nearly suffocated : this incon- venience, however, was more tolerable than the gnats. As it was Sunday, the tenth, we could not obtain horses until the people returned from church ; we consequently threw ourselves on beds to take some rest, having first eaten some bread and cheese which we took with us ; for in general we could meet with nothing to eat, sometimes eggs and milk, but the milk mostly sour ; they make it sour immediately upon milking the cows. When the good people we travelled among had any thing to give us, they gave it most willingly ; and it was necessary for us to insist, before diey could be persuaded to receive for it. Every thing there is cheap, and our liberality astonished them. The post.master is not obliged to keep more than one horse in the stable : when several are wanted, he informs the individuals of his neighbourhood, who go to the woods to seek theirs. These individuals, sometimes as m^^ny as three, came, bring^g their horses ; one mounted the coach-box, another one of the horses, and at times they ran on foot a great length of way. It is the rule to pay them eight sous per horse per mile ; for the drivers, we paid them twice or three times as much as the people of the country are wont to do, which was very trifling. If we ^ve them eight sous for two or three miles, they were surprised at our generosity ; they took us by the hand, with an air of joy and friendship, exclaiming: " For myck, tak myn herr;" you give too much, thank you, sir. After reposing ourselves a little, we set off at one in the afternoon : the road still through woods ; some lakes and mountains are seen. We passed in a boat by rowing across a river, and arrived at half past four at Soderella, two m^'es from Skoog. From Soderella we went to Noralla, one mile off: between these places we passed by Soderham, famous in Sweden for its musquets. From Noralla we proceeded two miles and a half through woods, wherein were marshes, and here and there some houses, and arrived at Upang^ at eleven o'clock, leaving it at midiiight. One Swedish mile farther on, on v.he eleventh, we entered a more pleasing country, but more mountainous : there are lakes, and a river which works a considerable forge, near to which is a handsome house, close to the post-house of Eksun- da, one mile and a half distant from Upange. We left Eksunda at three o'clock in the morning, and at a mile distance parsed close to Hudswikstvald, without entering it ; it is a town of a neat appearance ; it had two steeples, and a town-house with a kind of dome ; tlie town is situated 4t the bottom of the gulf. A little farther, that is to say, one mile and three quarters from Eksunda, we took fnesh horses at the post-house of Sand, and again others, three quarters of a mite farther, nt Weista : these two latter places are situated in a fine country, of vaUies abounding with barley and rye. From Weista we went on to Hermongar, one mile and three quarters off, always amcMig woods. For the first time on the ro« \ we saw a rein-deer, which shepherds were guard- ing, and which appeared very tame. Leaving Hcrn\o>\gur we passed a river ; all the way was lined with woods of birch, for one mile and a half, to Unarp, which we reached lit two o'clock in the afternoon. We waited there for M. de Maupertuis, who arrived at nine in the evening. White waiting for him we dined and slept, and departed at ten o'clock, leaving our companioQS by !ih at lit T A VOYAOE TO THK NORTH. 269 in the second coach to take their rest in their turn. Almost ahvays MOods of fir ; \vv passed through a hamlet, crossed a torrent, and at last a great river, over a bridge, at the end of which is the post-house of Niuronda, t*vo miles and three quarters from Gnarp. Messrs. de Cederstrom and Meldeorcutz joined us here. At six in the morning oi .. v.esday the twelfth, after going one mile and a half, we arrived at the little town of Sundswald, very prettiiy situated at the bottom of a small gulf, where vessels come up : the church and the town-house have a very neat appear- ance, as well as the houses themselves. We piissed a great river, a quiu'ter of a mile before we came to it, and a small one on leaving it, which empties itself into the gulf. We asked for bread, and were told there was none. There is no post-house in this town, wherefore we went on, with the same horses, one mile farther, to Dinguelstadt, two miles and a half from Gnarp. We left Dinguelstadt at eight o'clock, and, through roads mountainous and full of sinuosities, came to the great river of Lindal : we passed in a bark the two branches which it forms on different sides of an island ; and after landing we chan i;ed horses at Fiahl, one mile and a quarter from Dinguelstadt. At noon we quitted Fialil, going through woods of birch, and at three o'clock arrived at Marck, one mile and seven-eighths distant ; we dined there and left it at seven o'clock. We met now with an unequal country, but in which were fine vallies, intermixed with lakes ; mid- way passed a river, and got to Skoog by ten o'clock, one mile and three quarters from Marck. We were now near Hemosand, and passed by the country-house of its bishop. M. de Maupertuis afterwards informed us that he went to sleep there, and received at his hands every marie of poiiteness. M. de Cederstrom, his relation, told us as well he would have been much gratified to have seen us. \V e left Skoog, on the thirteenth, at eleven o'clock at night, and towards midnight arrived at the borders of a gulf, into which the great river Angcran empties itself. It blew fresh ; the boatmen advised us not to go over with the coach ; they joined two boats leather, fastening them well ; they placed the two hind wheels of the coach farthest from the shore, making them run on planks, and afterwards the two fore ones in the other, and got over by dint of rowing, being ill-favoured by the wind, which had much to work upon in the coach . ve were obliged to use the same means in the passage of several other rivers on the road. After the coach was landed, they returned to pass us over ; this maroruvre cost us nearly three hours. On landing we met with horses ready for us on the banks at Veyda, and at four in the mormng we reached Skullerstadt, three quarters of a mile from Veyda, and one mile and five-eighths fix)m Skoog. We slept at Skullerstadt, and did sot leave it till eleven o'clock ; tlie roads were very crooked, and over higli mountains, th vallies of which are mostly lakes, or arms of the sea. We went tv^o miles and a half farther, and arrived at four in the aftemx>n at Saltzoker, thence over mountains to Essya, five-eighths of a mile from it : we found there flat bread, in the form of cakes, which v/as good, as well as the milk and butler i fo- a long time wc had not forcd so well. The country still full of mountains, but the best we had seen since we left Upsal. The vallies end in lakes, or gulfs ; but there are many fields sowed with buley and rye. We quitted Essya at six o'clock, and, on account of the mountains, did not arrive at Dokstat, although no more than a mile distant, until nine. We could have embarked our coach in boats at Saltzoker, and passed by water to Di^stait j it was proposed to us, but would liave given us too muchtroul^. 'fr« »'& 'W --J •'* t v"' 270 OUTIIIER'8 JOURMAL OV At a quarter of a mile beyond Dokstat wc p;tssed undei mou it Skula ; above we Ijcrccived the entrance of an apparently inaccessible cavern ; we werj told, however, that people had entered it, and that it was very white inside. We travellv'd between the sea, which was east of us, and this mountain, which is nothing but one prodigious rock. The country continually mountainous, but the roads much beiter. Wc arrived the fourteenth, at one o'clock in the morning, at Biestadt, two mi'cs frcm Dokstadt. We waited here for M. de Maupertuis, who came up with us, together with Messrs. Clairaut, Le Mon'iier, and Celsius, at half past five. M. de Cederstrom, with M. Meldecreutz, airived nearly at the same time. M. Hcrbelot staid behind, to follow in M. Cederstrom. 's chaise ; and M. Meldecreutz occupied his place in the coach, which carried M. Camus and myself. We set off at six in the morning, meeting with many mountains and woods, and after travelling a mile arrived at the post-hou^e of Hoonas. We left it at ten o'clock ; many mountains, the vallics of which were fertile, frequently lakes and gulfs ; we passed over one by a bridge, and arrived at Brostadt, a mile and one eighth from Hoonas. As all their moveable feasts were four weeks behind, they were now keeping Ascen- sion Day, and we could not obtain horses till one in the afternoon. We were twice obliged to have some parts of our coach mended, and M. de Maupertuis overtook us. Al^e.* proceeding a mile, we crossed a large and rapid river over a bridge ; the water of it was red, the case with the most part of the rivers of this country ; we crossed a second by a bridge called Husa, a little while before we reached Onska, two miles and three quarters from the last post-house. We arrived at Onska nearly all together ; a man came to inform us that M. Somme- reux and our luggige was at anchor about three leagues from us. M. de Maupertuis went first in his coach ; one of our servants driving him, on going down fix)m Onska CiV»r *he peasants of this country do not understand driving) ran the coach against the gate, and broke the shafts, which obliged him to return to the post-house to have them mend- ed ; and as we were still together, M. de Maupertuis, tired of the inconveniences of tra- velling by land, took horse, and joined the ship. M. de Cederstrom in '•ur coach took the place of M. de Meldecreutz, who remained at Onska, to wait for M. Sommereux, who M. de Maupertuis was to send back from the vessel. The fifteenth we journeyed for two miles through woods of fir and birch, and by mid- night came to the post-house of Afwa, and one mile and a half farther to that of Lafwar. Thence to Sodermiola was three miles and three quarters, and two miles and a quarter from Sodermiola to Rodbek ; we passed entirely through forests of fir and birch, over very sandy roads, with now and then a lake. Rodbek is a fine and large village, at the west of a great plain or meadow, interspersed with a number of small sheds for housing the hay. In this village there is very good water, said to be mineral. We changed horses at Rodbek, which is only a quarter of a mile distant from the town of Uhma ; we crossed a part of this great plain, and passed in a boat the river of Uhma, where we arrived at half past five in the evening ; the second coach followed us very closely. The city of Uhma, sixty-eight miles one eighth from Stockholm, is no otherwaj-s handsome than from its situation on a river of the same name, wide as the Seine, at Pans, and on which the vessels come up to the houses. There are four streets in a straight line, running from east to west, and parallel with the river : tliey are crossed by several others north and south. At the eastern extremity of the city is a great square, in which is the church : on Sundays and holidavs there are numbers of men with halberts in the city, to prevent noise and disorder. And further on towards the north, in every parbh in A VOYAGl*. 10 THE .VOmii. 271 the country, there is a lansiman, that is, a man to whom the governor addresses all orders ibr the pul)lic service ; in lovviis he is called a biirg(Mnaster. I'he prospect of the neighbourhood is plia-^ing ; it consists of large plains, full of small houses or sheds for hay, ijcyond \vhii:h arc the mountains, rather elevated ; half a mile from die city to ''"' east, on the norlliern side of the river, is the house of die governor of the province, built endrely of wood, nevertheless very liandsonie for that country ; people were at work in making large gardens, sufliciently pretty. It having been noised aijout in the city that some Frenchmen were to arrive there, >x number of persons had collected to see us. M. Clairaut arrived with the second eoae!i, the care of which M. de Maupertuis h.id left to him ; we supped together in a good inn, and met with wine : at half past ten, Messrs. Camus, Celsius, Herbelotand myself iet off; M. Clairaut with the coach waited for Monsieur Sommereux, and to hear of thi embarkation of M. de Miiupertuis. Leaving Uhma we met with nothing but Helds, with some valleys, for the space ofa mile, and arrived at Taffley by midnight : thence still the same country : we passed a river, and Ix'yond it found a camp, consisting of t^vo companies only ; they exclaimed, in German, war das ; M. Celsius answered, goth wan ; that is to say, a good friend. The sixteenth we changed horses at Saswaar, one mile and three eighths from Taffley, and again entered woods, which continued one mile and seven eighths to Diekneboda. About a mile farther, at six o'clock in the morning, we came to the village of Bygdo ; we saw there an arch formed by two trees from thirty to forty feet high, from which is suspended a kind of eii'cle made of branches ; here the troops exercise themselves in throwing hand grenades. We did not change horses at Bygdo, the post-house was at Riklera, a little farther, one mile and three-eighths from Diekneboda ; from thence we went on to Gamboda, through a pleasant country, the same distance of one mile and three eighths. Afterwards higher mountains succeeded, one in particular which extends a great way from north to south, at the bottom of whicii is a lake : we passed this moun- tain in an oblique dii-ection, and arrived at noon at Grimmersmack, one mile and one eighth distant ; we left it, without waiting, and travelling through a similar road, came by a beautiful valley, between two lakes, to the post-house of Selet, one mile from the former. We met here with good fish, and dinR(i ; they asked next to nothing for our dinner, and when we offered them more, made some difficulty in accepting it. It was two in the afternoon when we arrived at Selet ; we left it at four o'clock ; we passed a river, over a bridge, between two lakes ; soon after another ; then succeeded a flat counUy, and fine woods of fir, as far as the post-house of Dagbostadt, one eighth of a mile off; Thence through woods of fir for one mile and a half, when we reached Burea. We left this place at seven o'clock, and shortly after passed a river, then tf.rough a long valley, in which runs a large river, on the banks of which we left our. horses at Simmanasin, which is divided from Sialefstadt only by the river, which we passed in a boat. From Burea to Sialefstadt two miles ; it was midnight, on the seventeenth, when we landed ; we did not go into Sialefstadt, which is a large town ; we found horses near the church, to the west of the village ; the iansiman had been in- formed of our coming, and many were collected, waiting to see us. At first they put horses to our coach which did nothing but rear, not knowing how to draw. We had others haniessed to, and when about to depart, the countryman who was to drive us was much puzzk^d where to place himself, and, after considering some time, at last clapped himself in the boot, where we could scarce perceive him, which diverted us highly. We slept without fear, all four of us, during a great part of the way, notwith- standing the bad coacliman we had, and the horses which drew us having been just \ 1 1 .' I'll, 272 OTTIIIEH'S JOURNAL Ok' \ cuiight ill the woods, and which were very little suited to coaches, and that through immense forests, and sumciimcs deserts, where for four or five miles not u huu^c wus to be seen. \Vv at lengtl set off; travelled through a tolerably fine country, and crossi-d two rivers by bridges, and arrived at Vraskager, one mile and a half farther, at diree o'clock in die morning; we left it :i|jain inunediately ; die road was perfectly level, ihmugh forests of fir and birclt, intermixed with marshes. We passed a Itundsotne and htrgc river called Dusti ' ir o\ lock, whereat the coach was put in two boats ; same road, level and amid Wi > Abyn, two milts and a quarter distant. We arrived there at seven o'clock ; atw . aids we passed a river over a bridge of wood (in this ( ountry there are none of stone.) We tncn had a very even roiid, amid woods of fir and marshes, but very sandy, and in which we liad much trouble to get on, so that we did not arrive at Geffre, no more than seven-eighths of a mile distant, l)cfoie eleven o'clock. The valley of Geffre is sufficiently pretty ; one of its extremities reaches to the sea to the south- east, and at the other is a lake, through which the river runs. A number of houses arc dispersed about, and a great quantity of land is under cultivation. We passed the river, and after riding two leagues, over an even but sandy ro^d, amid woods, we perceived a handsome common, well cultivated, with two hamlets: yet some woods, and a sandy road, till \ e came to the great river Pithea, which we passed in a boat at four in the afternoon, and arrived at Pithea, two miles and a quarter from Gefl're. It is the ancient Pithea, which, besides a large village built round about the church, comprises a great number of houses, dispersed in a beautiful meadow, on the borders of some lakes contiguous to the sen. and the great river, which is rather an arm of the sea. New Pithea, or the town, is a French league from it ; we saw it on our return. The eighteenth we dined, and stopped at Pithea till Monday morning. M. de Cederstrom and Meldecreutz arrived at two in the morning, their chaise much damaged. M. de Clairaut came shortly after with his coach. As soon as these gendemen had breakfasted, we were desirous of going on, but had to seek M. Celsius, who had gone to sleep at the clergyman's, or rector of the parish, at some distance from the inn. M. Clairaut and myself went to look for him, but neither of us knew where he lived. We knocked at the door of a seemingly genteel house, imagining it to be that of the clergy, man : although M. Clairaut already knew something of the language, he could not make the servant understand him, and we were going further at hazard, when the master of the house, who was the judge of the place, came out, and said to us in French, qui demandez vous, Messaeurs? (What do you wish. Gentlemen.) We were bath sur- prised and pleased : he politely accompanied us to the house of the clergymw, which was some way off. M. Celsius returned with us, and set off in the first coach with M. Camus, M, Le Monnier, who took the place of M. Herbelot, and myself. M. Clairaut and M. Sommereux reposed themselves a little, and afterwards set off in their coach, with M. Cederstrom and Herbelot. It was eight o'clock when we left Pithea, and after a mile and seven-eighUis, through woods intermingled with fields and lakes, we arrived at Roswik by noon ; thence travelling on, we passed a bridge over a river, and after going up hill for a long time in the woods, we descended into a beautiful plain, and arrived at two o'clock at Emas, one mile and an eighth from Roswik. Leaving Emas, .we passed an arm of the sea, which looked like a marsh, and afterwards, through woods ck we followed the course of its southern bank, and after two miles riding we crossed it in a boat, to arrive at Calix : M. Celsius and iome others of our party went to the clergyman's, or rector's, called in Swedish Kyrckher. ' From Calix we set off at four o'clock, ulwiiyi through woods, with bad and sandy roads. The servant which we had with us, tim wrcftt before, sent us horses to llic middle of the wood, and we changed after liaviiiff gone a mile. We walked another mile, passed between two lakes, and ( iuni »(» a IIHIe tWtc, just before a village cidled Sangis, wliere tliere are some well tulllvnl* il li< M , m Is gtJii rally the case round about the villages and hainifffi tf thf* rountry, wituli ttii t^ver near tlie banks of some river, or the shores of some gulf. At Sangis we crossed in a boat a latge ti I ||{|fk li vjth which we travelled for a mile iKtween lakes, thioiitfh n rT|oiiii(Hiii ' d by marshes, as far as Sanhiwitz, where we arrived iif I'- i i i.t^^i... We yet continued among woods and marshes, crossed two liiui^ ill rivers ; then an arm of the sea in a boat, at two o'clock (Hi the f \ventieth, and a similar at four : yet some woods and marshes ; after which we arrived at Hm 1 1, uprni the shore of the gulf, formed by the river Torneo, at five o'clock, two m^ «i!i from Sanliiwitz, and one hundred and seven miles and three eighths from StocklKiim. We passed this gulf with oui coa( lw:s by lipats, to go to Torneo, where we reckoned on taking up our quarters ; but having learnca that M. Piping, burgomaster of the town, lived near the bottom of the (iulf at Martila, in his house called Nara, we did not go down to the town, but went io the same boat to the bottom of the bay, and entered the house of M. Piping who had been informed of our journey by M. D'Hegreman, lus son-in-law, a merchant of Stockholm, and in consequence prepared apartments for us. M. Clairaut and those who were in his coach arrived soon after us. We were all very much fatigued, aoKl rested -rsdves during Wednesday and Thursday. It was ."M VOL. I. N N 't! 274 oimrren'i JoimxAi. or the day of the summer solstice, on the twcnty-fimt, a season when in this cmmtry the sun is seen passing the mcridiut) ut midnight, in the nodh. Wc looked Tor this si^htt but in vain ; the vapours with which the horizon was overcharged hindered us, ChtU'lcstlu; Eleventh, king of Sweden, incited by the same desire, purposely undertook, a voyajjc from Stockholm to Tomco, to sec it ; he was more fortunate than us, for getting mto the lx:lfry, he saw more than a quarter of the diameter of the sun, at midnight. M. de Maupertuis had made a fortunate voyage ; he had seen, froni sea, the sun duritjg a whole night, at leitst a part of its disk. He arrived at Tomeo nearly two days before us, and found there M. Gullingrip, governor of the province, who was going into Lapland. M. dc Mauiiertuis did not hesitate to accompany him, impatient to exa- mine the country ; he went as far as Oswer Tomco, and ascended mount Avasaxa, to sec if he could not draw some advantage for the observations from the mountains. He did not choose to go farther, wishing to be at Tomeo against our arrival. We had thci)leasurc of seeing him there, and of meeting altogether on Thursday evening. The twenty-second M. Duriez, lieutenant colonel of the regiment of Westro-Bothnia, was then at Tornco. Wc went altogether on Friday to visit him, at a somewhat elegant house which he had at Hapaniemi ; he treated us with great civility, and during our stay ir> the country wc saw him frequently. There were only two persons in Tomeo who spoke French, M. Duriez, and a young man, whom the governor pointed out to M. dc Maupertuis, and who served us for an interpreter. From Hapaniemi we went to the town : we ascended the balcony of the town- house, to observe the neighlx)urhood ; for we thought of nothing but finding situations proper to form a succession of triangles. M. de Maupertuis, on his joumcy to Oswer Tomeo, and from the summit of Avasaxa, had seen some mountains, which appeared advantageous to our purpose ; but he noticed that the greater part of these mountains were near to each other, and covered with trees. . . , .•, '. > vr» We employed Saturday and Sunday in visiting the neighbourhood of Tomeo, and in deliberation on the measures most proper to adopt for the success of our operations. At length we resolved on going to visit the coast of Ostro-Bothnia, and the islands along that coast. We no longer thought of the coast of Westro-Bothnia, since M. de Mau- pertuis informed us, that, coming by sea, he had noticed it, and that both the coast and islands were nearly level with the water, and covered with wood. M. Camus, Sommereux, and myself, were charged with the examination of the course of the coast, and the islands met with there, from Tomeo as far as Brakestadt : we took seven men, who were to row and steer the boat, which was a common one, in which we embarked with two scr\'ants, and provisions for a fortnight : that is to say, biscuit, and some bottles of wine, remainuig of the stock laid in at Dunkirk. We began our voyage Monday the twenty-fifth, at half past six in the afternoon. I continually observed with my compass the direction we took, the position of the islands, and the most apparent parts of the coast. The twenty-sixth, at four in the morning, we had already advanced seven miles and a half from Torneo ; the wind became northerly, and we set the saUs. We were all extremely cold ; we landed on the island of Knawaniemi ; we made a good fire, beside which we breakfasted. The wind continued northerly, with very fine weather ; we carried sail, and arrived at Ullea, at half past five in the evening, on the same day (Tuesday) which with them was Whit -Tues jay. Ullea is a pretty considerable town of Ostro-Bothnia; the streets are in straight lines, and very long. There is but one church, and a town-house, where there is a public clock. Ves- sels come up nearly to the town ; it is built entirely of wood, as well the church as the houses of the town. There is a dock-yard, in which vessels are built The castle of Ullea, called A VOVAOE TO TIIK NOHTII. S^7j Ullaborg, is in n small island to the north of the town ; it is built also of \voove two days, living oi our provisions, with some milk and fish that we bought in a villai|?e ; for shortly after our landing the wind blew so violently, and so adversely the whole time, that wf oould not leave the place. Towards evening M. Camus and Sommereux went to the house of tlie clergyman, which we were informed was about three quarters of a league distant. He shelved th';ir\ fjrcat civility ; the next day he stmt us eggs, and on Saturday morning he came to see ns. I accompanied him a good part of the way on his return, and we had a long convti "sation together : as he had learnt that I was a priest, hi often inquired of me, vhy rre you not allowed to marry? This good chaplain was shoi v^ about to marry the daughter of the rector of Flaminia, who had recenUy died, and expected thereby to insure to himself a succession to the rectory, of which he was only te curate : he took all our names, and was delighted with our having touched at hih island. We saw there very fine crops of rye and barley. Every countryman here, as w-ll as in Westro. Bothnia, has several out-houses ; he has his windmill, and manufactures liis own cloth. This island is four miles from Ullea, and two miles from the main land ; nearly joins • - ■ 1 ■ • ■ - - ■ ■■■ - - V V 2 ' ••'.«. . -'.: ■, . - * , , f 2 w 1 I \ i t' t t, ll i< I' I. !'■ r. 976 OUTIIIKR'a JOURNAL Or the lilllc iHlnmU of Hauin iind fjnppiikari. Cnrloohii w the only itlancl which w»- -vw on our voyage which m iiihaUitid. At length, oil Satiitilay the thirtieth, ut nine in the evening, the wind having nhuted, we returned to our lH)at, to proceed toward** Tonieo. At half past eleven u hr^v ilock of birch, called Curlews, cume over, making u horrid noiiie, and Hying very nnir us i occasioned by our aimnmching an island formed hy u great heap ol stones, on whl -*t they made their nests. VVe arrived there ut niidniglit, and funded ; this caused an increase in the cries of the birds, who, when we took any of their little ones, up|xared n*ady to m tack us. We afterwards |)assed by three similar islands. A strong soiith-west winfl r lit^g^ which caused u great swell, at two oVlock in the ufteriKX}n we got into a creek where we landed. In this place were fishermens' houses ; it is culled Muscakckti, and i> .^ little to the north-west of Siinoka. VVe were told that M. dc Maupcrtuis had been t'urc on Friday. At live o'clock we left this place, and arrived by ten at the island of Moii:u Iota, where we landed, and from which '1 ornco is easily distinguished. We did not dc^ocnd the river by the same course we took on leaving Torneo; we steered then cast f the Finnish church, and the island of Biorckholn, near the little island of Kugen, i >•<' re. turned by the other branch of the river to the \vest of the islxmd of Biorckholn, and a; iffd ut the burgomaster's ot; Monday, the second of July, at three o'clock in tite motumg, where wc commiinicated to M. de Maupcrtuis all the remarks wc had made on our voyage. He had himself undertook a journey along a part of the eastern coast oi die gulf, and saw that there were no means of forming a succession of triangles. M. Celsius proposed to postpone the work until winter, and to effect it by actual measurement on the ice of the gulf; but what should wc have been doing for three months, during which we could see no star, the sun Ix'ing always above the horizon, or so little set, that there was u continual strong twilight ? Besides, we had not yet received the sextant, by whuh we were to observe the distance of certain stars from the zenith ; and the inhabitan! of Torneo could tell us nothing for certiiin of the state of the gulf in winter : they uriAi^nyc that die whole of it is frozen over ; but no one could tell us now far we mi^ht with tailty venture on the ice. And if certain of being able to traverse it, a south wind happeiuiig to blow, the ice would be opened, and sometimes piled up, and thereby our plans become interrupted, und lost. It was proposed to cut a line directly north and south, and measure it with a rod, through the woods ; this was a pro|)osition- superior in value to our trusting to the ice ; it was more certain, but subject to great inconveniences. Although the country be not very uneven, we could never expect to meet with twenty leagues without considerable elevations, and without having lakes, rivers, and marshes, to pass, which would have made this measure difficult of execution. At last M. de Maupcrtuis resolved on undertaking the operations on the mountains. M. Viguelius, director of the schools of Torneo, who had for a long time acted us pastor, or chaplain, in Lapland, informed us that the river Torneo ran more nearly from north to south, than what the mops described, which gave us further encouragement. M. de Maupcrtuis laid his plan with M. Duriez, to have a number of soldiers ready to forward us in their boats : these men are peasants, residing in their own houses, always ready at call, either to pass in review, or to join the army ; a very courageous set of men, and not afr lid of fatigue. There is not an inhabitant of Torneo without one or more lx)ats ; for during the summer, and as long as the river be navigabk:, they travel in no other man* ner ; and it is terribly laborious to walk, as we, in the event, were obliged to do, through a country made up of marshes and forests, and where the moss grows so high, that a man can scarcely extricate himself from it. 1! IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) J/ e -"','4> ii. -^ ,/^'.'v [/ ^ 1.0 I.I 1.25 i'^ IW II 2,2 '■ ■*" IIM 111= 1-4 III 1.6 «• Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREtT WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872 4503 4 ^ ;v \ \ ^9> V «.' ^ m , CiHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CiHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institiit canadien de microreproductions historiques O^ A VOYAGE TO THE NORTH. 277 Tuesday the third, and Wednesday the fourth, we employed ourselves in preparing for travelling . some biscuits, a few bottles of wine, some rem-deer skins for our beds, four tents, which could contain no more than two persons each, two quadrants, a plane- table, a pendulum, thermometors, and all he instruments necessary or useful towards the completion of our operations ; this was our baggage. We went twice near the Fins' church, in the island of Biorckholn, in order to recon- iioitre properly two or three mountains perceivable from that spot, and the belfrey, which we went up. Thursday the fifth was the feast of St. John, which they keep eleven days later than us, according to the old stile ; it was a grand solemnity, and we could not de- part that day, notwithstanding every thing was ready. Friday the sixth, by nine o'clock in the morning, our instruments, our provision, and the few clothes which we took with us, were embarked, and we departed m seven boats, each boat manned by three men. We were all eight of us together, with five servants, the other two being left at Twneo ; besides, we carried with us our host, M. Piping, the young M. Helant, who M. de Maupertub had met with at the governor's, and who served as an interpreter throughout the expedition. M. Piping and M. Helant spoke the Finnish tongue, the vOnly one in use among the soldiers, and throughout the country beyond Tomeo, and which is entirely diiFerent from the Swedish ; he spoke Latin also. We landed, and walked along the banks, while the sailors with great difficulty ^ot the boat up the cataracts of Wojackala and Kuckula. The mountains which we saw from Tomeo were Nieva and Kukama : the first is not far from the river, it b nigh some houses called Cofpikyla ; and it was on this mountain that M. de Maupertub wished to make his first station, and begin the operations ; but for this purpose objects to be seen were necessary. Kukama presented itself as fit for this purpose, and me first thing to be done was to construct a signal there. At six in the evening, while all our flotilla was before the village of Karungi, I detached myself, with Messrs. Sommereux and Helant, two servants, and two boats ; of the six men whicn manned these, one was left in care of them, and with the five others we undertook to go to the mountain of Kukama. We met widi dreadful roads ; as the snow had but lately thawed, the marshes, which formed a great part of the road, were impassable. The inhabitants, to pass these marshes, had joined together fir-trees, end to end, on which, by keeping a due balance, it were possible to pass, if the knots of these trees, which are like so many pcnnts, allowed of treading on them : and there was nothing impossible to our soldiers ; they carried our provisions and their own, with hatchets, the plane-table, vnth a part of our clothes ; and when we could no longer walk on the trees, we trudged through the marshes ; onoe I sunk in up to the knee, and with difficulty got out. We travereed two lakes ; a boat which was in the first of these lakes not being on the side nearest us, our soldiers gathered together some pieces oi timber, upon which two of them got, to go to fetch the boat, on which they ferried us over. On the second lake there was no boat ; in the same manner as before they fastened together six pieces of timber, on which we all ten embarked ; but as it sunk a little under our collected weight, two soldiers re-landed, with our two servants ; they joined five pieces of wood, together, on wluch they passed, while we went over on the first. On all the road we found only a deserted mill, on the river Musta, and two bams for hay near the lakes. We suflfered a great deal, not only from iatigue on the road, but from the stin^ngof gnats and the heat. Althou^ it be no more than three French leagues from Karungi to Kukama, we were eig^ hours in going, and did not arrive there t^fore two o'clock on Saturday morning. •< w.u ■ ;'vhich \vas entirely covered with trees. Our sailors told us it was Pulhngi, and we immediate!) resolved on going dicre. While our siiilors with great difficulty got the boats up the cataract of Katilla, wc proceeded on fcot along the bank ; and here it was I first passed the polar circle. It was nciirly seven in the morning when our boats received us above the cataract : we found the river still fine and spacious, some very good fields on its sides of excellent rye, barley, and hops, near the hamlets of Komnus, Hiougsing, and Rattas. VV'e got out of the boat again, to examine the mountains of Rattas, but found they could be of no use tu us. We left them at noon, and arrived by two o'clock at Lambisen Nieva : we found there a comfortable house, where we left a part of our things, in order to get to PuUingi, through the woods and marshes, with greater facility. It was too leagues distant ; we attained its summit at seven o'clock, exceedingly tired ; the gnats tormented us here more than any where before; besides these, the air was full of extremely small flies, whose stings drew blood. In order to eat our bread, for we had nothing else, we were obliged to be very quick in passing our hand under the veils which covered our faces ; without this precaution, we should have been covered with blood by their stinging, and have swallowed an many of them as crumbs of bread. M. Helant and I were by our- selves, with six soldiers or sailors ; we enveloixd onrselves botli together in the cloth of a tent, in such a manner as to leave no entrance to the flies, and seated ourselves near a large fire, in order to Kleep. The eastern extremity of PuUingi is the most elevated part of the mountain, but co- vered with fir-trees, of a much larger size than any whicli we had hitherto met with. From the top of a tree I discovered Avasaxa and Horrilakero, and I determined on erect- mg a signal ; but it was necessary to fell beforehand a part of the trees. Our six men were employed about it incessantly, and the signal was raised on Wednesday the eigh- teenth, at four in the afternoon ; we then retraced our way, to take our clothes at Lam- bisen Nieva, and re-ascend the river in our boats. We were so much fatigued, that we verc not so lively. On the twenty .eighth, at night, it rained heavily, with thunder, after which we con< structcd the signal, and continued stripping the mountain till four in the afternoon. Wc descended and re>emJarked, and after two hours, which it took to cross the lake, we again entered the river. Fortunately we arrived by eight o'clock in the evening at the house of Lohi Jerfwi, where we sheltered ourselves from the rain, which fell m abundance throughout the night, accompanied by dreadful thunder. We slept upon heaps of new- mown hay, the best bed we had met with since we left Tomeo. We did not leave this place till near ten in the morning, to continue our journey to- wards Avasaxa, where we expected that M. de Maupertuis yet remained. Our provi- sions failing, we proceeded to the house of Portimo, on the lake of that name, to try what we could find to eat : we met with bread, or rather dry barley-cake, made half of straw ; extreme hunger made this appear delicious. We reached the i j) of Avasaxa at ten o'clock, as those gentlemen were returning from the house of M. Bmnnius. The length of my voyage had given them time to make their observations ; they had not l)ccii able to see the signal on Ketima, and waited fo*- our return, in order to determine on the course we should take. Mount Avasaxa is situated in the best peopled and finest part of the river : its bed, above all, towards the south, for the space of four or five leagues, is extremely wide, and offered the most proper spot we could desire for an excellent base, whose extremities would be visible from Cuitaperi and Avasaxa. This base could not be measured at any other time than in winter, over the ice ; but it suited to fix upon it, and erect signals at its extremities, to join it to the triangles, and to make the necessary observations before winter came on. Monday the thirtieth, shortly after noon, we all came down from Avasaxa : Messrs. Clairaut and Camus took upon themselves to determine the direction of the base, and its extremides ; and M. de Maupertuis with the rest of his party embaiked in five boats, to go to Pullingi. At nine at night we landed, to get up the cataract of Kittilla, which is intersected by the polar circle : our seamen took us to Hiougung, on the western side of the river, to a good house, where we supped ; we found there good barley-bread, dry fish, milk, cream, ^tter, and cheese, and were served in a very cleanly manner. We left this house at eleven o'clock, and instead of going to Lambisen at Pullingi by land, we went on in the boats to the Uttk village of Turtula, and fxota thence to the A VOYACiE TO TIIK N<»KT»I. Jb.) mouth of tlic river Kcutas, vvliicli is nut navigaljlc. Wc left out buut:i on the bunkn of thcjrrcat river, uiul nrocccckd on lixjt to tlic sicU' ol' Luke Kvutas. 'Flic thirty-firhL Ordinarily they have a littli- Ixwt on culH hike, to fetch the hay nu)\v(d in the marches : on this lake we f'otnid two, and we made use of one on several expedi- tions to the foot of the moinitain of PuUin^i. VVe hadnutch trouble to reaeh the huiu- mit 5 it is very steep, and at every step we made w crtuis and Celsius ; and observed an eclipse of Aldebjran by the moon, which was u.cful in ascertaining the difterence between the meridians of Pullingi and Puris. To p.t Ixitter, it was necess;u-y he should be more comfortably lo t) — 'i mm M A VOYAGE TO TIIE NOBTH. 289 lay pior our sailors had laid in provisions for more than two or three d;iys ; in the mean time we had no prospect of fair weather, and had already begun to divide the provisions which we had remaining among our soldiers : we therefore dispatched five of them to Turtula on Friday evening, for victuals for us and for themselves. Saturday the eleventh, the weather becoming fine, we begun our observations at three o'clock in the morning, and they were completed before noon : we sent our baggage down to the foot of the mountain, thinking that the soldiers sent to Turtula would make huste back. The boats returned, and we embarked at five in the evening ; we had difficulty in crossing ; a very violent contrary wind had rose, and the boats were not sound ; the sailors took the precaution of keeping close to the side, to be under shelter from the wind by the forest. It was ten o'clock before we reached Turtula ; we supped at the farmer's at Martila, and although there were two empty beds, Messrs. de Mau< pertuis and Celsius slept in a tent, wluch was pitched before the house ; and as three could not commodiously sleep in it, I returned to sleep on the bench which had been my bed before. M. Le Monnier had sent back the boat which carried him to Oswer Torneo, and we had five on the bank of the great river. We went ofi board them with all our ba^age on Sunday the twelfth, at nine in the morning, and arrived somewhat before two o'clock at Ruktula, where we dined. We afterwards crossed the river, to go to the house of M. Brunius, the pastor of Oswer Torneo ; we found at the water-side Messrs. Clairaut and Camus, with M. Le Monnier, who was much recovered. The weather was de- lightful, and the air free from flies ; together we took rather a long walk, entertaining ourselves with plans for spending the winter at Torneo ; we met all at M. Brunius's, who with much politeness offered us his house. M. de Maupertuis willingly took upon himself whatever was laborious, and insisted upon every one C:ring better or less ill than himself. I did not spare myself, pardcu- larly when I had to accompany him ; notwithstanding, he obliged me to remain at M, Brunius's, to take repose. I stopped with Messrs. Le Monnier, Sommereux, and Her- belot, who had remained there since their departure from Avasaxa ; and Messrs. de Maupertuis, Clairaut, Camus, and Celsius, departed on Monday the thirteenth, at nine in the morning, to make observations on mount Horrilakero. Messrs. Clairaut and Camus had determined the base, and caused a signal to be con- structed at each of its extremities. Messrs. Le Monnier^ Sommereux, and myself, after dinner, took a walk to the signal at the northern extremity of the base ; we secured the centre by difierent directions, taken firom the neighbouring trees, which we marked, that we might know its position again, in case of any accident ; and as we could not see the signal on Avasaxa from this one, on account of the trees on the summit of that mountain, I went up it with two sailors, in order to fell them. I rejoined Messrs. Le Monnier and Sommereux, and we returned together to the house of M. Brunius. I went by myself in the evening to take a walk on the Uttle mountain Sarki Wara, which joins the Presbytery : from the Dp of it I had a most beautiful view towards the south, along the course of the river, as fir as Kainenkyla ; the weather delightfiil, and no gnats. M. Brumus returned from Hieta Niemi, a chapel of ease to Oswer Torneo : we supped with him and Mad. Brunia ; he exercised the functions of curate, and expected ' to succeed his father in the rectory of Oswer Torneo, who was blind, and incapacitated fix)m fulfilling his duties. Tuesday me fourteenth, at nine in the morning, I set off alone with three sailors in a boat to go to the southern extremity of the base, in order to secure the centre of the VOL. X. r ? tv OT 290 OirTFIIEn'S JOURNAL OP signal : I could not effect it by directions taken from tree to tree, for there were none except what were very small ; but I made a more certain mark, by the means of a great rock which was near the signal. We passed the day of the assumption of the Blessed Vir^n (whose feast is not held in Sweden) very tranquilly. M. Brunius kept company with us almost all the day ; we entertained ourselves in talking Latin with him. Just as we were all in bed, ut eleven o'clock, M. Camus returned from Horrilakero, to go the next day to Kukuma, in order to rebuild the signal which the winds had blown down. He took some rest ; and Thursday morning the sixteenth we both set off, with a servant who spoke Swedish, and nine soldiers, one of which also spoke Swedish. We embarked in three boats, of which we left one at Hieta Niemi ; two being sufficient for us, a third would only have embarrassed and detained us in passing the cataracts. M. Camus and myself were in the same boat, in which we kept going down the cata- racts. At that of Waojenna, a wave on the side where I sat spent itself over the boat, and almost covered me with water. We were obliged to keep ourselves in a posture almost lying, in order that we might not hinder the pilot from seeing the rocks, which he continually avoided by the means of ihe rudder, while two Fins rowed with all their might : in some places, however, they suffer the boat to fall down the stream, guided only by the pilot. The cataract Matka was quite as terrible as the first ; we were, as it were, buried amidst the waves, but this was of short duration. We arrived at Kor- pikyla at three in the afternoon ; we stopped more than two hours at a farmer's ; we dined there, as well as our sailors, who required a little rest. We got to the top of Kukuma by ten o'clock : the heat and almost continual rays of the sun had somewhat dried the marshes, and we found the road pretty good. A rein- deer belonging to the Lapland girls who lived at the foot of mount Nieva took a liking to us, and followed us in spite of his mistress, who could not prevent him ; he stayed on mount Kukuma all the time we remained there. The nights began to be cold, and we passed this near a great fire. At three o'clock in the morning of the seventeenth we set to work to re-establish the signal ; we set off at nine o'clock, and arrived by noon at Korpikyla. The rein-deer came back with us, and returned to his mistresses, who had five or six others. We ascended the cataracts on foot ; the waters were very low in them, and the navigating through them incommodious : we got into the boats again at Kainuq- kyla, and arrived at M . Brunius's, where all were in bed except himself, who was re« turning from fishing at midnight. Saturday the eighteenth was very fine, scarce any gnats or small flies ; there were only a few flies remaining, similar to those we met with in France. Messrs. de Mau- pertuis, Clairaut, and Celsius, returned from Horrilakero at five in the afternoon, and we were all met together. In the evening we perceived a fine aurora borealis. On Sunday the nineteenth, some of our party going to church, where there was a sermon, were astonished to hear the sobbing of the audience, affected by the discourse of M. Brunius. On their return from church, it was said that the forest of Horiilakero was on fire ; this turned out but too true : after dinner we saw from the top of Avasaxa the smoke of the fire ; it even prevented our observing the angles of the extremides of the base, or seeing Horrilakero. We were obliged to send an express there, to know if the signal was not damaged ; as for the rest, the weather continued fine, and the nights rather cold. Messrs. de Maui^ertuis^ Celsius, and myself, notwithstanding, slept on the mountain. Messrs. Clairaut and Camus went to M. Brunius with M. Le Monnier, as yet convalescent ; they found M. Herbdot there, who on taking a trip in a boat was A VOYAGE TO THE NORTH. 291 near being tlro\vned : as all the ill that followed the accident was only his fear, we diil nothing but laugh at it, and kept ourselves alive by our gaiety. Monday the twentieth, the smoke was still thicker ; it was distinguishable in every quarter. In dry weather, as it was then, the mountains of the country often take fire, which commimicates in an instant to the dry moss, and spreads prodigiously ; sometimes three weeks elapse before it is extinguished. The smoke of these fires extends over the gulf, hides the beacons from the pilots, and frequently causes shipwreck. This shewed us how wisely we had acted in not losing time in Sweden and at Tomeo, and in nearly completing our trigonometrical observations before this smoke was common, which would not allow the perception of distant objects, such as the points of our triangles were. Messrs. Clairaut and Camus returned in the evening, to sup and sleep with us on the mountain. Tuesday the twenty -first, the express sent to Horrilakero having reported that the signal there was burnt, Peter, the servant which the ambassador gave, an intelligent man, and who knew the centre of the signal, departed with six men to reconstruct it. We never failed to take exactly the centre of our signals, and in the observation of the angles to make the intersection of the two refl^^tors of the instrument answer to it. When we left a signal, if it was on a rock, we made a mark at the centre on the rock ; and we made more sure of it, by taking its distance and direction from certain neighbouring trees and rocks, of which frequently we preserved a copy in the register of our obser- vations. If the signal was placed on the ground, or we were any ways able to drive a stake in at the centre, we did so, and on leaving the place we covered it with a large stone ; it is thus we had acted at Horrilakero. Madame Brunia sent to us on the mountain a dish of harshed meat, and one of green peas ; but they were so much sugared and seasoned with lemon-peel, according to the taste of the country, that we could not eat it. At four o'clock in the afternoon the smoke was dispersed, and we took the two angles remaining. At nine o'clock we went down to sleep at M. Brunius's, where we found letters announcing the arrival of the sextant, which M. Celsius had ordered in England, and which was to serve us to examine the distances of some star*^- from the zenith. The next day, Wednesday the twenty-second, early in the morning, we all went to the northern signal of the base : we caused it to be rebuilt in as solid a manner nearly as the houses of the country are wont, preserving in a scrupulous manner the same centre. We had only to take the angle Ijetween Avasaxa and the southern signal of the base, and were not able to effect this, owing to the smoke, till four in the afternoon ; we were even obliged to send a man to spread a very white cloth over the signal. At nine o'clock we returned to sup and sleep at M. Brunius's : his house was the best retreat we met with ; it was placed nearly in the middle of the space comprised by our triangles, and very near the northern extremity of our base : we always found there three rooms that we could occupy, without inconvenience to the family, which was very numerous. They fumbhed us abundantly with every thing necessary for our sustenance, and every one there exerted himself to serve us. The good father, old and blind, the mother of the same age, their son and son-in-law, with their family and servants, formed a very- natural representation of a house of the ancient patriarchs. Hospitality is exercised pretty generally throughout the country : if want of rest, or dread of bad weather, at any time induced us to take refuge in a house, the master, before we could say any thing to him, sometimes even without an interpreter to make ourselves understood, im- mediately opened for us an apartment, apparently destined for strangers only, and re- mained standing, looking at us, his family assembled about him, and every one quickly hastened to wait on us. If it were in the smallest degree cold, fire was immediately r p2 292 OUTHIEH'S JOURNAL OP kindled ; and frequently they brought what little they had to eat before we asked for it. As M. Helant, the only Finnish interpreter we had, could not be eveirwhere, that we might not want for necessaries in his absence, we learnt to salute in this language, and to ask for milk, butter, bread, water, or drink. Thursday morning the twenty.third, not content with giving us an excelleni breakfast, M. Brunius put several bottles of beer into our boats : we had five ready, and at ten o'clock we embarked, to go to the southern extremity of the base. M. Brunius went with us ; he was going to lay in his stock of salmon : he told us, for many years there had not been so great a scarcity of water in the river, nor so much dry weather ; in conse. quence on every side there were fires in the forests. Peter returned then from Horrila> kero, where he had employed twenty-two men in extinguishing the fire, and re-establish- ing the signal : he left seven, to watch lest it should break out afresh. At three in the afremoon we reached the southern signal of the base, at a moment when the clouds of smoke were tolerably dispersed ; but scarcely had we begun our observa< tions, before the wind changing brought them back ae;ain. We were impatient to finish them, and to profit of the remaming time, before the frosts set in, to go to Kittis, in the neighbourhood of Pello, in order to make the necessary observations with the sextant, which had Just arrived from England at Tomeo. In the evening yve went down to Nie- misby, which is a small village ; we pitched our four tents there in the meadow, where we passed the night. After listening to all the means proposed for preventing the loss of time, M. de Maupertuis thought it would be best for some (me to go to Pello, to pre. pare every thing necessary, in oracr that, on arriving there with the sextant and other in- struments, we might be enabki to begin immediately the necessary observat'ions. M. Camus took these preparations upon himself, and for that purpose left us on Friday the twenty-fourth, accompanied by M. Herbelot. We returned to our southern signal, where we happily terminated our observations : we then came back to Niemisby, to embark in our four boats, to go to Cuitaperi, to take the angle between the southern signal of the base and mount Avasaxa. Friday night, and Saturday the twenty-fifth, we made many fruitless attempts ; we were unable to make our observations, the clouds of smoke which covered the country keeping us on this mountain, where our residence was extremsly disagreeable ; in spite of cold, we had numbers of gnats. A little rain which fell in the night was not sufficient to extinguish the fires ; it had however beaten down and dbper sed the smoke, and we had clear weather sufficiently long to make our observation, which was only of one angle, on Sunday morn- ing the twenty-sixth. At two o'clock in the afternoon we came down the mountain ; we found five boats at the banks of the river, M. Camus having sent his back as soon as he had reached Oswer Tomeo, where he took another. I embarked in the same as M. de Maupertuis, and we kept in it going down the cataract of Matka. A little below this cataract, as we were threatened with a heavy rain, and it was late, we made for land at a good house of Korpi. kylu, on the western side of the lake made by the river : the rain dispersed, we pitched our tents, and passed the night there. M. Viguelius, chaplain and director of the schools of Tomeo, was with us ; he had that day preached at this house, which was called Te- pane Piping ; the inhabitants of the neighbourhood, having been informed of it, had assembled there. M. Vigi^elius told me that this was often the case at places distant from a church ; and further, that when there was any one ill, he used to make the con- secration to them to adnriinister the communion. In the evening we saw between the clouds an aurora borealis. .-.i' KhT >»:i i!', '.i! *k.'i ii-i' A VOYAGE TO THE NORTH. 293 Monday morning the twenty-seventh, there was in the court a Lapland man and woman ; they were two ill made persons, almost always sitting on their heels, and came begeing ; they would not have been very short, had they stood up. We left this place at seven o'clock in the morning. We landed, on passing the cata- racts of Kuckula : we amused ourselves in noticing the movements of our boats from the banks, how at times tliey appeared in the air, and at others engulfed bv the waves. We saw there an ermine, which hid itself so cunningly among the stones, that we were unable to find it ; we sometimes saw them run into the water towards the banks of the river or lakes. We saw also birds of the eagle species dart into the waters of the cata- ract, and carry away fish in their claws : we were told, that when these birds dart upon fish of too considerable a size for them to bear away, they are sometimes drawn beneath the water by them, and drowned, not being able to withdraw their claws. At three in the afternoon we arrived at M. Piping's, where we first landed, on our arriving at Torneo; we found there again the same rooms and beds. It was the first time from the sixth of July that we lud between sheets. From the mountains of Nieva, Kukuma, and Cuitaperi, we distinguished the belfry of Torneo, and from this belfiy we had to take the angles between those three mountains : the two first were easily distinguished ; but neither on Monday, nor at any time on Tuesday the twenty-eighth, could we perceive the third. At length, on Wednesday monung the twenty-ninth, we perceived from the belfry of the town mount Cuitaperi, and we ascended with our quadrant to make our observations ; the weather did not allow of our taking them to our satisfaction. During the night it rained a great deal, and still more on Thursday morning the thirtieth. The rain began again in me evening, lasted all the night, and the whole of Friday the thirty-first. After wandering about so long among die lakes and mountains, Torneo appeared to us another world. Lieutenant-colonel Dariez came to see us, and invited us to dine with him ; we all of us went on Friday ; Messrs. de Cederstrom and Meldecreutz were of the party. The next day these gentlemen accompanied us to tlie belfry, where we staid all day, waiting in vain for an opportunity to observe our angles. We then re* gretted the tranquility of the mountains ; we were surrounded by spectators, who in. commoded us, and were no ways interested in our observations. Sunday the second of September there was clear weather, very fit for cur taking the angles ; we thought of nothing else. In order to get rid of troublesome company, and to make our observations at ease, M. Celsius, who went to church, as soon as it was over went up the belfryl and shut himself in. M. de Maupertuis and myself pretended to take a walk, and when by ourselves we ascenderi to the tower of the belfry, where M. Celsius, as we had concerted, was waiting for us, and where we had shut up our quadrant some days before. Before evening service we had sufiicient time to complete our observations. We had now no more than one angle to take, to perfect our trigonometrical series ; it was at Kukuma, to take the angle of Horrilakero and Niemi, in order to close the hepta- gon which the utuation of places had allowed us to form, and which afforded us singular advantages for proving the series of our triangles. During the too long stay we had made at Torneo, we had got ready every thing we had to taike to Pello, for making the different observations. For the sextant alone three boats were required : we had besides, three pendulums vibrating seconds, several simple pendulums, quadrants, barometers, thermometers, and a variety of other instruments, to take with us. M. de Maupertuis had obtained an order for the lansiman of Oswer Torneo to furnish us mth fifteen boats ; the soldiers and countrymen were so anxious to serve us, U 394 OUTIIIBR'8 JOURNAL OF that instead of fifteen, there were eicrhtccn or nineteen. There was a long dispute among these Fins; they would ull go, and siezed on the dilTercnt packages to load their l)oats with; but the laiisiman had sent a list of fifteen which he had engaged, and in these wc all set off on Monday the third, a little after noon. We only left two servants at M. Piping's at Torneo, with M. Herbelot, who was just returned from Pcllo. Along the catiracts we walked, and again saw birds taking fish. It rained a little, and us it in- creased after passing the cataract of Kukula, we landed on the island Toiwolmi, otherwise Kukulan ; there were some houses there, wherein we spent the night. Tuesday the fourth, about six in the morning, we departed, and arrived with our little fleet at Corpikyla at ten o'clock. After dining here all together, while the rest of the party continued their road to Pcllo, M. de Maupertuis, M. Celsius and myself, set out towards Kukuma ; the rein-deer which followed us on the nineteenth of August resolved again to be of the party, and would not leave us. At two o'clock in the after- noon one of our sailors or soldiers |x?rceived we were gone wrong, and one of them returned to Coqiikyla, to obtain a guide. We were tlien obliged to wait for him in a heavy rain ; and after our guide had arrived, we were able t< proceed but very slowly, our Fins being very heavily laden. We arrived on the top of Kukuma a little after eight o'clock ; it was already very dark, and the rain came on heavier ; the whole summit of the mountain was nothing but rock or water : nevertheless we pitched a tent in a spot as damp as it was hard, and Peter, who was with us, pitched the other near tlie signal, to put the quadrant under shel- ter. Our Fins, well skilled in making fires, kindled one, in spite of the badness of the weather ; we endeavoured to warm and dry ourselves, but die cold rain, which fell in torrents, rendered our attempts useless. M. de Maupertuis, tired of being cold, and getting wet by the fire, retired towards the tent : the night was very dark, it was one of those not lightened by the aurora borealis. M. de Maupertuis, walking on the points of the rocks, on which by day it b difficult to walk, put his leg between two rocks, and fell. Peter and myself ran to him on hearing the noise, and found him in such a situation as to give us apprehension he had broke his thigh : we helped him into the tent, and we cut twigs of birch to serve as a mattress for him. I supped by the fire with M. Celsius ; we went to lay down in the tent beside M. de Maupertuis, and passed the night coolly enough. It rained again on Wednesday the fifth, all the morning, with a fog; in the afternoon we endeavoured to take our angle, but could not satisfy ourselves ; we were however comforted by learning that M.de Maupertuis found himself better, and that he had nothing to fear from his accident. It rained very much through all the night again : our poor Fins bore with all the constancy imaginable the brunt of the weather, without any shelter ; they appeared as insensible to its roughness as our rein-deer. Thursday the sixth, by ten in the morning, it ceased to rain ; we made our observa- tion very well, dined, and left the mountmn at three in the afternoon, to go by very bad roads, and often thrciigh water, to sleep at Corpikyla. M. de Maupertuis walked very well, and felt scarcely any pain ; our rein-deer came back with us, and rejoined the others feeding by the hut of die Laplanders. Friday morning the seventh, one of the Lapland women, very infirm, came, drawn by a rein- deer, to M. de Maupertuis, to bring him a basket which she had made, and which she sold to him. At six o'clock we set off in five boats ; we ascended all the cataracts on foot as far as Cainunkila. While waiting there for our boats, we saw them thresh their barley : they put it first in a room to dry, in the corner of which is a kind of stove ; it is a large square block of stone, rather longer than wide, through the middle A VOYACr TO THE NORIH. 295 of which a cavity is cut, which runs its whole length. They kindle a fire in this hollow, as we do in our ovens, and this causes an amaznig heat, which contiiuics for a great length of time in the block of stone. It is in this room that they finish the drying of the biirley, which beforehand, after the harvest, has been exposed to the rays of the sun on large ladders, which are erected for this purpose near to every house ; there are even some in the middle of the town of Torneo. They thresh their grain, thus dried, with flails, sufficiently resembling those which the country people make use of in France ; and after clearing the gr;un, by throwing it from one side of the bam to the other, to separate the dust, they complete the operation of cleaning in rather deep baskets, which serve them for fans. I ought to have observed before, that they reap their rye and barley with a sickle, as is the practice in France ; not so with the hay ; they use a scythe, the blade of which, almost as long as ours, is much more narrow ; it is listened to a handle, which is no more than two feet four inches long, or at most two feet and a half: they dart this scythe among the grass, first to the right, and then to the left, with such quickness, and stooping so low, that it is wonderful how they are able to support the fatigue. We began to see some horses, which were returning from their summer quarters. The manner of living of these animals is among the most surprising things of this coun. try : it is only in the winter that they are made use of in dragg-'ng sledges, which serve for travelling in, as well as to carry the different necessaries of life, particularly wood and fodder ; for during the summer all travelling and carriage of every thing is eifected by water. During the month of May, earlier or later according to the length of winter, the horses leave their masters on the first thawing of the snow, and go into certain quarters of the forests, where they seem to have established among themselves a rendezvous. These horses form sepaiiite troops, which never interfere or sepiu'ate from each other : each troop takes a different quarter of the forest for its pasturage, and keeps to that which is fixed upon, without encroaching on the others. When their food is exhausted, they decamp, and go in the same order to occupy another pasture. The police of their society is well regulated, and their march so uniform hat their masters always know where to find them, if by chance they should want in the spring or summer to travel any where in a carriage or sledge, which sometimes happens to be the case ; or if any traveller should want horses. In that case the countrymen, receiving the orders of the gifwergole, that is to say, the post-master, go into the woods to fetch their horses, which, after rendering the services required, return to the forest of them- selves, and join their companions again. When the season becomes bad, which it began to do in the month of September, the horses quit their forest in troops, and every one proceeds to his own stable : they are small, but excellent, and lively, without vice ; their masters lay hold of them sometimes by the tail to catch them, and they seldom make resistance. There are however some, in spite of their general docility, who defend themselves on taking them, or attempting to harness them to carriages. They are very healthy and fat when they return from the forest ; but their almost continual labour during the winter, and the little food given them, makes them lose their good appearance very soon. When fastened to the sledges, they frequently, as they run, seize on mouthfuls of snow ; and as soon as released they roll amid the snow, as ours are wont to do in the grass ; they pass the night as frequently In the yard as the stable, even in the sharpest frosts ; they frequently are in want of food, particularly when the winter is very long ; the horses then go and forage for themselves, in places where the snow has begun to thaw. V;. J c :■ i 296 ouTiirF.n's journal or Not so witli the cows ; in the villages ulong the rivers theyeo to no distance from the houses, to which thev are daily taken to be milked. At Tornco, in the Hummer, there arc few cows brought to Uie town : during rainy years, when the isthmus of Nara is overflowed by the river, they can only reach it by swimming ; on this account, many of the burghers have sheds on the western banks of the river, south of Matila, to which their wives and maids go by water to milk them ; they are small, almost all white, and many without horns. By then our boats had got up the cataract Waojenna, it was ten o'clock in the morn- ing ; we re.embarked, and took shelter from a very heavy rain at two o'clock at Alkula. We arrived at night at M. BruniusN, where as usual we were received in the most gra- cious manner. Saturday morning the eighth, after taking tea, which is much the practice in the better houses of the country, a> ' eating our breakfast, we set ofl' for Pello, with only four boats : the conductor of the fitth could not accompany us ; he was a corporal, and had received order to be at a certain place, to attend tne exercise of the soldiers. At eight o'clock at night we arrived at Turtula, that is to say, to the house of Martila, where we always took up our abode. We left it on Sunday the ninth, at seven o'clock, and pro- ceeded to dine on the rock of Pello Pyta : there was a fog, and very cold north wind ; we made a good fire, for wood in thb country is nowise scarce. At length, at three o'clock, we arrived at Pello, where we all met together, except M. Herbelot, who was employed at Tomeo on some drawings he had to finbh. M. Camus had been a fortnight at Pello ; he had been alone, before joined by Messrs. Clai- rant and Monnier, who accompanied the sextant with all the instruments. M. Camus in that time had got ready for us two apartments in the house of Corten Niemi, one of which was intended for observations on the simple pendulum, and to fix a telescope in, to regulate them by the motion of the fixed stars. M. Camus, for that purpose, had caused the floor of the apartment to be cut, in order to erect a shaft of stone, on which to fix the telescope, and hang the simple pendulums ; there remained therefore no more than one room for sleeping at Corten Niemi. He had provided two others in the house of Purainen, about one hundred and fifty toises from the other ; one of these apartments was occupied by Messrs. Clairaut, Le Monnier, and Celsius ; the other by M. de Mau- pertuis and myself. In the house of Saukola we should have been much nearer to mount Kittis ; but it belon^d to a poor man, who had not a single room fit for us. M. Camus bought of turn his cotta, that is, a sort of pavilion, higher than the other parts of the house, and lai^r at the top than the bottom ; at the top there is usually a long pole, with a wea- ther-cock. In this cotta it is that snow is melted and water warmed, to give to the cattle during the winter ; some make their brandy in it fix>m grain. M. Camus bought diis cotta then, and had it taken to pieces, and afterwards carried and put together again on the mountain, where it served as an observatory to place the sextant in, and to take the distances of some stars ftt)m the zenith. We had the convenience of a foi^ at Corten Niemi ; although not in venr good condition, it vna useful to us ; we even forged several pieces of iron work for which we had occasion. Monday morning the tenth we employed a great number of workmen, the horses were returned to their homes; those of our two hosts were used in drawing upon sledges the cases which contained the parts of our sextant ; a small observatory was be- gim, quite new, precisely over the point of the last of our triangles, to take there the direction of the meridian, and to fix a pendulum. The following days these different works were continued ; every one worked at die part assigned him ; all was in motion i I 3n Ithe ent ion A VUYAbK TO TIIK NOItl H. ^^97 ut Gorton Niemi, and on'the mountain : tlic ■k.aft of stone wus finished, and secured with clamps ; the fixed telescope was set up, and un excellent pendulum of Julien Lc Roi was iu its place, on Thursday night the thirteenth. Tiie two lust nights there hud been an abundance of nun : this was remarkable fur a very beautiful aurora borealis, whose streams of light formed at times u vault, gushing upwards from every side, und joining at the zenith ; incessantly they changed their shuiK* ; in every quarter fresh ones were thrown out, less however in tlic north than in the other divisions of the skv. Friday the fourteenth was one of those ^rand prayer-days, of which the king of Sweden obliges the inhabitants to keep four m the year ; on them they do no manher of work ; they arc obliged to send one from every family to church, though it should be thirty miles distant, that is to suy, sixty kagues. k'ive families, however, in the viU lage of rello ore exempted, for fear of accidents happenings from Pre, or any other cause ; and each inhabitant in his turn succeeds to the exemption. At church the numes of those who attend are registered, and there ore penalties for such (umilies as arc ub. sent without satislactoiy reason; on these days Uiey remain very long at church. At Oswcr Tomeo there were two succesuve sermons, and the people were in church from nine or ten in the morning until three in the afternoon. Saturday the fitkenth, a man coming from Wardhuis, M. Celshis had a lon^ con. versation with him ; if we had had notlung else to do than to satisfy our curiosity, he would have created in us a desire to visit a courttry still colder and more desert than that which we were in. There came some La|^anders, most frightful figures, to ask charity of us, crying all the time ; they came in without tapping at the door, entering our apart, ment without ceremony ; and, whatever they said, we could only comprehend the word Jesou Christou, which they repeated pretty oAen. Some girls of the village who were betrothed came with their mothers, to beg a few pieces of money towards celebrating their nuptials. As we ptud our workmen well, in so poor a country it caused a high opinion of our opulence. M. Camus had provided a case of drugs and medicines for our voyage ; this made him esteemed throughout the country some famous physician. A girl, who had fallen ill at Tomeo, sent an express to Pelto to consult him on her com- plainty and to request the proper remetfies ; he answered with so much j^vity, that she certainly would be cured, if all that were wanted in the cure were to stnke the imagina- tions These little adventures added to the gaiety which we constantly enjoyed in the midst «f our operations^ ' The sky was cloudy, and we had not hitherto been able to observe by our fixed tele* scope the passa^ of a star ; nevertheless, the observatories were ready en Kittis. Sunday afternoon the sixteenth, we |daced the sextant in the grand observatory ; the weather continued heavy, with a little rain the rest of the day, and all Monday the seventeenth, and Tuesday morning the eighteenth. Tuesday afternoon it began to be fine, and Messrs. de Maupertuis, Clairaut, Somme. reuK, and myself, went to take a walk ; at night, die sky being clear, wc observed the passage oiihe bright part of the Eagle over the thrfads of the fixed telescope, which was fastened to the stone shaft. We had fixed anc'her telescope against the planks of wood, which served as a wall to the apartment : but we very soon perceived that the wood gave, and that no reliance could be placed on the observations made with this telescope. Dunng the night there were aurorse boreales, and it froze. Wednesday the nine- teenth the weather changed, the wind got round to the south, it was m'lsty, mth an wpcarance of snow. It rained very hard during the night, so that no opportunity offered of observing an eclipse of the moon : we only began, at a quarter past four on VOL. r. q, q^ Q98 UUTIIIF.R'S JOt'RNAL OP Thursday morning; the twcntidh, to sec the moon, which was then entirety cclinsed; it was very feebly distinguishi d, perhaps owin^ to the twilight ; at u quarter past five it Xud not bef(un to pass the shadow of the earth, and sinking below tlic horizon, it was again concealed by clouds. We continued to work at what related to the observations which we had to make : we went to place in the little observatory on the mountain u pendulum which Mr. Gra. ham h id sent, with the sextant. In the same observatory an instrument was placed, for taking the direction of the meridian. From the time of the sextant Ix^ing put up, some one of us had slept every night in the great observatory, in order that the instruments mi^ht not Ik: deranged or spoilt. The inhabitants began to bathe frequently ; their bath is so hot, that M. de Mauper- tuis, who wished to try it, found that the thermometer of Reaumur rose to 44 tk grecs above the freezing point. In their baths they have a kind of stove, exactly asembling that which I described as in use among them for drying their com ; it is as well placed in the corner of the chamber. When the block of stone which forms it Ix'comes well heated, ihey throw water upon it, iuid the steam from this water makes their bath ; they generally go in two together, each holding a handful of twigs, with which they whip each other, to excite perspiration. I have seen very old men at Pello go out of a batn quite naked, and violently sweating, and i)ass across a court through the frosty air, with- out receiving any injury from it. At Corten Niemi, and in the house of every farmer at all of easy circumstances, besides the room designed for the bath, they have another, larger, wherein there is a stove ; two or three little square holes, of six inches wide, serve for windows; here the familyssleep during the winter. In the day-time the men work at mending their nets for the fishery, or making new ones ; the women sew, or weave cloth : they are, as it were, in a hot cond there oii well, which was u tolerably line day, and at length began to talie obscrva* tions with the sextant. It hud not thawed throughout the day, notwithstanding the sun WDs out for some time, still we did not much feel the cold. The following niglit it was so extreme, that the river was frozen almost totlic middle by Wednesday morning the third; at the edges the ice was from fourteen to- fifteen lines thick. Scarcelv a night passed ^vithout aurorae boreales. Game and birds became every day more plentiful ; we sa\T large flocks of ducks on the river; and frequently heard the cry of cranes and storks> as they flew over us. M. de Maupertuis came in the morning from the mountain to the apartment of the stone shaft, where I was continuing experiments on the simple pendulums, dming the time of the stay of the others of our party on the mountain, occupied with their obserra- tions. M. de Maupertuis divided his attention between one and the other. This evening he received a letter from M. dc Maurepas, which he communicated to us ; it was highly complimentary in what regarded us. Tne weather was still cold, and, although cloudy, it never (ailed to freeze at night. Thursday the fourth it was more mild, and very fine, and at night we made our observa. tions as well as we could desire : M. de Maupertuis, M. Camus and myself, that on the bright port of the Eagle with the fixed telescope ; and Messrs. Clairaut, Le Monnier, and Celsius, that on the star / of the Drapon, with the sextant. The two following days, the fifth and sixth, it continued fine, and ve again made the same observations. At the sextant we always observed three together, and not every day the three same persons : one counted the pendulum, and another attended to the micrometer, while the person observ- ing through the telesco[)e moved it backward or forward by the micrometer, without looking to it before he saw the star cut by the thread of the telescojx:, and pass through its whole scope. Sunday the seventh the weather continued fine ; but unfortunately during the obser.. vation a motion was communicated to the sextant, which made us suspicious of error. I A \OYAnr. TO TMR NOHTIJ. 301 Monday the (iglith, Mill liiu' wrutlicr ; tlic ohwrvnlioti at ni^ht wa-t |)«*rfcrtlv made : the cold incrt'n( morr, aiwl M. dc Maiipertiiin was |Krfe('tly ^utikfMtd with tlioMe alremly maile. All tlurtc by the tcx uiit gave the Hiime dintattce ot the »tar / otthc Dragon i'rom the zenith, within two or ll»ree Jiccondi. The dift'crcnt oli^cr. viitions on the simple |)cndiiliimt hud ul.so Ixren made with all |K>s'»il)le care, hut did not ^ive the same result to c(|ual ninety. Two of iIkihc i)endulumA were hnrs of iroii, well |x>li»ltcd i one e.ylindricul, tunicd ; the otlrr lozenge. niia|)e(U with four sitlci : three others of these penduhimN were nuide with u ImiII of hnisM, lilled with lead, strongly Holdered to a riMl of steel, at the end of which it was sustKuded upon two knive!i. VVetlnetNluy nighl, when I returned to Corten Niemi to Puraincse, I found M. dc Muupcrtuis come bnck from the mountain, who acquainted me with the result of tite observatiom on Uic simple |iciKlulum», and told me Ik was desirous that at least one of the ball |jendulums, instead of Ix-ing suspended on two knives, should Ik> huiif^ on a ring, or ruthcr u simple shaft, lixed at the extremity of the rod of the pendulum : thi«*, on the next dtiy, I eftcctcd ; in retunung from one side to the other, its motion was more uni< form than it had been when hung on two knives. I took away the bull from another of these penduloms^ and substituted a lentil, in order to determine, whether, the resistance of the air inm^g leas, Uicrc would not be a dili'crence in tlic movements of the pendulum ; there did not appear to l)c any. Thursday the eleventh the weather had become very mild, but there was a thick fog, which cndoel in rain ; and atlerwards there was nothing but a succession of fog and rain : if at any tunc some short intervals of clear weather occurred, they never happened at such hours as were seasonable for our observations. Any man, except M. de Maupcr- tuis, ^tould hare been satislicd with those we had already made, as well with the sextant as the sim|>ic pendulum ; he however mshcd to wait for a return of Rnc weather, to repeat theiMb Wc hud now readied the twentieth of October, without luiy appearance ot it ; the barometers rose several lines, and, notwithstanding, wc had continually either fogs, rain, or snow, which melted as it fell. In case the weather should Ixicome clear, tlic season being far advanced, wc ran great risk of being detained at Pcllo at least for a month : there would have been a (h)st sufficiently sharp to freeze the river ; and as long as this remained, without becoming much more severe, the ice would have prevented the navigation of the river, without benig sufficiently hard to bear sledges. Besides, it was desirable to suffer as short an interval as possible to elapse, between the observations made at Pello and those to be made at Tonieo. All Saturday, and Sunday the twenty-first, was passed in deliberating on what should be done ; and at last, the bad weather still continuing, wc determined on going. Mon- day morning, the twenty-second, we went up the mountain, and took down the sextant and a!! the instruments, which kept us employed till five in the evening, when we returned to Corten Niemi. Tuesday morning the twenty-third, the sextant, part of the simple pendulums, the pendulum of M. Le Roi, and almost all the instruments, were put on board five boats ; Messrs. C;)mns and Celsius embarked at the same time, to fhll down to Tomeo, and prepare there a prO|ier place to fix the sextant in, and to make observations upon it. On arriving at Oswer Tomeo they took fresh boats, and sent back the five they took from Ptrllo : Messrs. Clairaut and Le Monnier set off the next day in the afternoon, with three of these boats. We should have departed together, but the presence of all of us at Tomeo was not indispensable during the preparation of a place for, and fixing the 302 OUTIIIKU'S JOURNAL OP 1 sextant ; and M. de Maupertuis was yet desirous of making, for two days longer, some experiments on the simple pendulums. We continued tlierefore those which we had bei'orc begun; but as the weather was still bad, and we co.ild make no observations with the fixed teles: ope, to ascertain the motion of the pendulum of Mr. Graham, which we had reserved, M. de Maupertuis, fearful of \x'mg detained too long a time, if the river should happen to be frozen, resolved on our departure the next day. He wished to make experiments of gravity, without interruption, by the pendulum of Mr. Graham, which for some days back we had placed in the apartment of the stone shaft : we there- fore left it at Pello, with the other simple pendulums which had not been tried, designing to come back in a sledge during the winter, when we were given to understand we might expect a very serene sky. Friday the twenty-sixth Messrs. de Maupertuis, Sommereux, Helant and myself, embarked for Tomeo : we dined at Hyougsing, in the house where we had been so well received the thirtieth of July, and by night reached the house of M. Brunius. The sailors who brought us from Pello knew the danger to which they were exposed, by being at any great distance from home at such a season : they were apprehensive, if the frost began, of being stopped by the ice in the river on their return ; on which account they besought us to take others for the continuation of our voyage. We took four at Osv'er Torneo, and departed early on Saturday morning the twenty-seventh. We dined at Coifwunkyla, at a friendly farmer's, whose nephew, then in the house with him, spoke Latin. M. de Mauper:uis made him dine with us ; and we were looked upon with great curiosity by all the family. We did not land to go down the cataract Waojenna, which was frightful, as much from the contrary wind, as the great abundance of water ; for many years the river had not been so much swollen at that season. The cataract Macka was so strong and impe- tuous, that not only did we land, but the sailors themselves were obliged to unload their boats, to carry their loading along the bank of the river for the space of ftom one hun- dred to one hundred and fifty toises, and aftenvards to pull their boats ashore, and drag them the same distance, to launch them again into the water below the cataract ; there they loaded them afresh, and we embarked. We reckoned upon sleeping at Tohiwolan Sari, where we had before slept on the third of September ; but at five o'clock, getting dark, and the bad v/eather continuing, we landed at tlie house of Frankila, belonging to a very hospitable faimer, where we fared pretty well ; we slept there, as usual, some on Ijenches, some on tables, and others on the floor. Sunday morning the twenty -eighth the sky became serene, and our watermen, fearful of cold and ice, set off with us a long time before day-light ; they would not allow us to remain in the boats at the cataract of Kukula, belov*' which we again went on board. We saw a numiaer of swans on the banks of the river. We passed over the isthmus of Nara in our boats, where the waters of the river formed a little cataract, entirely sur- rounding with water the town of Torneo. M. Piping, the burgomaster, could spare us no more than four apartments, one of which was required for our servants : we were vtry well able to bear with being a little straitened for room, where we passed a few days only at his house ; but now having to pass ihe winter ut Torneo, vvc sought to lodge more comfortably. Instead therefore of landing at M. Piping's, at his house of Nara, at the village of Matila, we advanced far. ther with our boats, and landed pretty nigh the town-house, and proceeded to the house of a citizen, who had provided for us a dining parlour and two bed rooms, which Messrs. Le Monnitr and Celsius chose for themselves ; Messrs. Camus and Herbelot lodged ia the same street, with M. Planstron ; M. Clairaui lodged at M. Creuger's ; and M. de 4 ■> A VOYAGE TO THE NORTH 303 Maupcrtuis with M. Piping, a relation of the burgomaster. M. Helant went to his father's,, at the southern extremity of the town. There were then only M. Sommcrcux and myself unaccommodated. M. dc Maupcrtuis found a spare room at the house of his host for M. Sommereux, with whom he had frequent business, as he stood in the double capacity jf secretary and treasurer. M. Herbelot, who had stopped at Torneo, and knew the town, took me to Madame Tornbery's, mother-in-law of M. Rockman, the surgeon : I there found an apartment, which was very quickly pu. in order, and where I lodged during the whole of my residence at Torneo. All the others ^ ere in the same street, along the margin of the water ; I alone was in the second street, but di- rectly opposite to M. de Maupcrtuis' lodgings, a back door of which led into my street. Torneo is a little town, of about seventy houses, which are all built of wood : there are three parallel streets, extending from north to south, a little towards the turning at the bank of a branch of the river, which is nothi»;g but a bay during the summer, when the town is not entirely surrounded by water j these three principal streets are crossed by fourteen lanes. The church, which also is of wood, is somewhat separated from the houses, although within the palisades which surround the town, and which as well in- closes a space of ground which is cultivated, of rather considerable extent. In this church the prayers are read in the Swedish language, on account of the burghers, who speak that language. The town and this church are situated in an island or peninsula, called Swentzlar. There is another church, built with stone, in another bland, called Biorckholm, a quarter of a mile to the south of the town : here the service is "ead in the Finnish language, for the benefit of the servants of the town and the peasantry of the neighbourhood, very few of whom understand tlie Swedish. The house of the rector is near the second church, and he is unable to go to the city, except by a boat, or over the ice. In 1737 there were, besides, 4hree curates or chap- lains, who assisted the rector, and preached or read the service sometimes : they all dwelt to the west of the river, and came to town over the ice in winter, and in summer in boats, to avoid the greater length of road by Nara. One of these chaplains wiis di- rector of the schools, and came every day to town ; it was M. Viguiliers, of whom I have spoken, and who came very frequently to see us. All the houses in town as well as country have a large court, inclosed at least on two sides by apartments, and on the two others by stables and hay sheds. In the country these courts are perfectly square ; in town they are oblong. The sleeping-rooms have the chimney in the comer, as was the case in all of ours : the chim- ney-places are no more thai#from two feet and a half to three feet wide, by four or four feet and a half high. Above the chimney-piece there is a very narrow horizontal slit, in which a plate of iron is inserted, called Spihel, in order to shut the funnel of the chimney entirely, or in part, at will. When they make a fire the wood is placed upright in sufficiently large quantity, and as soon as lighted it is speedily reduced to charcoal ; the spihel is then shut, and a de- gree of heat proportionate to their wish is communicated to the apartment. In my room I made the thermometer of Reaumur rise to thirty -six degrees above the freezing point, at a time when the passes of my windows were covered with ice. A candle placed in a candlestick near the window became so soft, that it bent and fell. In the country, the bed-ropms and the kitchen are made pretty nearly in the same manner as in town ; the chimneys are made of brick and unhewn stones, which is the only mason's work known in the-country : frequenUy, under the same chimney-flue, near the fire in the kitchen, they have an oven for baking bread ; and sometimes an alembiu for distilling brandy from barley. ■ • 304 OUTHIER'S JOURNAL 01' » 1 y \ •'; Beyond Tonieo, in going up the river, every countr}'man has a kind of pavilion, whicli they call Cotta, larger at top than at the bottom, and higher than the rest of the house, at top of which, at the end of a long pole, is a weather- cock. Close to the window of the cotta, without the house, there is a well ; through the window the water is made to pass into cauldrons, where it is heated, and where snow for the cattle is sometimes thawed ; occasionally as well they make their brandy there. Moreover they have their granaries, which are several small apartments separate from the house, their baths, their rooms for drying and threshing their barley, somewhat resembling their baths ; and besides, their kitchen, and room called Pyrty , of which 1 have before spoken ; ordinarily they have two verj' decent rooms for strangers, to whom they always offer the best in every thing. The burghers in town, no more than the country people, use above one blanket on their beds, a coverlid of white hare.skin serves instead of a second. Many of these farmers have silver forks, large spoons, and goblets ; with those who are less rich they arc of wood : they are kin'^, studious of making themselves serviceable, and perfectly honest. I said bcibre that every farmer had his magazines : the greater part of those of Tor- neo are along the side of the river. This magazine is a room built of wood, Kke the others, but raised from the ground ; many even placed over the water, on four or six blocks of stone, to keep away rats : they get up to them by a wooden ladder, which is divided from the door by the space of a foot. It is in this room that they inclose a good part of their provision. Those who are in easy circumstances h;;(ve several of these ma- gazines. They are forbid having many coats of the same colour : they are not allowed to wear any cloth coat, which is not marked in the folds with the king's signet ; any venturing to do so would have it seized. There are officers, whose duty it is to go from house to house, to see if the chimney-places are properly kept ; if diey have a lanthom ; in short, if every thing be in proper order. They are forbidden also, under a penalty of fifteen hundred dollars, being present at the mass of the Catholics, to whom the laws of the kingdom only permit the exercise of their religion in closed apartments. They season all their meats with sugar, saffron, ^nger, lemon and orange-peel, and mix cummin in all their bread. The ordinary drink is beer, which thev make very good : they have a little white wine a^. Tomeo, which they call Vin de l^icardon ; all red wines they call Pontacte, Many country people know nothing of red wine ; some of those who followed us to the mountjuns, seeing us drjnk of it, imagined we were drinking t' blood of the sheep we had bought of them. "^ Along *' e river there are nouses from space to space, a certain number of which, although' v-ery widely dispersed, make up a village. All those from Tomeo, to a spot beyon the cataract of Waojenna, belong to the parish of that town ; and all north of ti," cataract to that of Oswer Tomeo, that is to say, Upper Tomeo. In this parish of Upper Tomeo there are as well two churches; the chief at Sarki Lushti, where the rector Brunius lives ; the other at Hieta Niemi, where service is some^ times performed, for the convenience of those parishioners at too great a distance from the principal church. Besides those, there is a chapel at Keiins, with a chaplain, who does the duty of the rector. The villages the most apart are Turtula and Pello ; at the first are only nine houses ; at Pello are seventeen, nine or ten of which are nearly con- tiguous to each other. At Pello, the ninth of September, there was rye already up, very green and promising. They cultivate the land with shovels and spades alone, and know nothing of either ploughs or carts. The second of October, as the eardi was much frozen, they suflered i! 1 if 'if # A VOYAGE TO THE NORTH. 305 their horses to graze this fine rye. They sow barley at the earliest in May, but generally in June, and it iii ripe in the beginning of August, as well as the rye ; they then reap it with a sickle, the same as in France. All the barley is round-eared, and makes a very welUtasted bread. The inhabitants have near their houses long poles, placed horizon- tally, into holes made in two or three upright beams ; the whole forms a kind of ladder, very wide, on which diey expose their barley to the rays of the sun, during the remainder of the month of August, while it yet appears for some time above the horizon : when the season is adverse, they take them into the rooms set apart foi .hreshing ; they place them on large ladders, with the ears downwards, so that birds, no^ being able to perch on them, should do them no damage. Their harrows are contrived very ingeniously ; they are composed of small pieces of wood, which are fastened together very much m the manner of certain chains made for watches : there are several ranges of the^e pieces, each range consisting of twelve ; the first rank hung entirely upon two cross pieces, to which the harness is fastened, by which »he horse draws. In all the country through which we passed scarcely any other trees were seen but fir and birch. In the islands of the Gulph of Bothnia there grows a tree resembling the acacia ; it bears bunches of white flowers, which turn to berries of a very lively red : there are a number of these trees in the church-yard of Torneo : no use is made of their fruit. A little to the sou *h of Torneo, in West-Bothnia, a tree is met with, of a middling size : some of them have leaves which resemble those of the pear-tree ; others resembling cherry leaves ; this tree bears bunches of white flowers ; it is called Eque. At Torneo, and even beyond Uhma, there are no fruit trees ; we did not find either black or white thorn, nor even bramble : strawberries, however, grow even north of Torneo, with some currants, and wild roses. North of Torneo no raspberries are met with ; they have yet however a good sort of fruit, which they cail Ocrubeus ; it is be- tween a raspberry and a strawberry, and of a size between both ; its leaf resembles that of a raspberry, its height is inconsiderable, its stem v/oody : it bears a red flower, which turns to a red fruit, pleasing to the taste. In some of the islands of the Gulf white-flowered ocrubeus are met virith ; they be ir five or six white flowers on the same stalk, very much like the raspberry, while the red- flowered ocrubeus has seldom more than one flower on each stalk. They have also some other fruits: the hiouteron, a sojt of mulberry ; its stem resem- bles that of the ocrubeus, five or six inches high, and its fruit, on ripening, becomes yellow ; it is found in marshes and meadows. In dry places, in the woods, lingen is met with ; it grows on a small plant, whose leaves are like box ; the stems, after creep- ing in nearly tne same manner as verenica for four or five inches, lift themselves up, and bear at their extremities a bunch of very pretty bell-shaped flowers, of a purple co- lour, which in autumn produce red berries, a litde sour ; the flavour like that of our barberry : this fruit, notwithstanding its sharpness, frequently incloses a small worm. The blober is another fruit of this country ; it is a small black berry, which is often met with in different places of Normandy, and in the mountains of Franche Compt^. That of the north is of two kinds : one is at most but five or six inches high, the leaves of a bright green, and the fruit of a fine ' 'lack ; the other is above a foot high, and has the leaves and fruit somewhat of an ash colour ; both one and the other have leaves similar to those of the myrtle. Besides fir and birch, there are some sallows, and here and there aspins, very higli andstrai^t ... '•«, VOL. I. ^ R ft fc f '■'■ I" 1 ir } ' 1 '- i i ;l' 306 OUTIllKR'S JOUUNAL OF 111 ihc meadows is seen a kind of narcissus, very pretty : the leaf is thick, and hkc that of clover ; it is culled Sceptrum Carolinum, and kno\vn to the French botanists by the same name. We saw a small lily of the valley, much less »han ours, whose leaf was heart-shaped. They have also pirola, golden rod, cudweed, or goldy locks, and a plant %vith long leaves, whose root has two bulbs ; it bears, on a lofty stem, a bunch of hood- shaped flowers ; they arc not handsome, but have exactly the same smell as honeysuckle. There is, besides, a sort of serpent's tongue, or herb without partition, a great quantity of small shrubs, which they call small broom ; most of the marshes are full of them. Monday, and Tuesday the twenty-ninth, after our arrival at Tomeo, were employed in putting the observatory in order, where the sextant was to be placed. M. Hellander, the host of Messrs. Lc Monnier and Celsius, and at whose house we dined, had a room, like the cotta before described, which was very fit for our purpose. We dug into the ground beneath it, to fix the more firmly some large stones, on which, as a base, we were to place the sextant : we opened the ceiling of this room, as we had before done with that of Pello , and M. Stenols, a Swede, sent into that country to visit the mines, made a pull, of very ingenious contrivance, to lift with ease, and quickly, the covering of the opening of the roof, when it was necessary to make an observation. Wednesday the thirtieth, the sky being clear, we hastened to place the sextant. Messrs. Le Monnier and Celsius had already marked the direction of the meridian in our new observatory • we verified it anew ; and in the evening the sextant was ready, so that we made an observation on the star of the dragon, which we had observed at fello. We moved the sextant, but in the slightest manner imaginable, to place it more exactly in the line of the meridian ; and we continued taking observations every day, the fair weatHer continuing to the seventh of the next month. The weather was fine, but very cold, and Thursday the first of November the river AVas entirely frozen over, between the town and Hapa Niemi : no one however passed over as yet upon the ice ; but the waters liaving somewhat subsided, people passed from stone to stone to the isthmus of Nara. We saw ourselves now established in the tOTvn for all the winter ; each was obliged to make hic own individual arrangements, and at the same time to attend to whatever conccnied the operations and object of our voyage. From the observatory, where the sextant was, we could not see the horizon, nor make any other observations than with the sextant. \\'e caused another small observatory to be built on the side of the water, entirely separated from the houses of the town : the little English instrument was placed here, which served to take the direction of the meridian, with a pendulum, and a quad- rant. Messrs. Lc Monnier and Celsius took their corresponding heights, regulated the pendulum, determined the south, and a point at the horizon, by the means of which, with the little English instrument, we always found again the pascage of the stars over the meridian. We made new barometers. M. de Maupertuis was ver)' careful through- out the winter in noticing their variations, as well as those of the thermometers, whether filled with spirits of wine or mercury, constructed upon the principles of M. de Reaumur. Saturday the third the ice of the river was strong enough to allow of passing from the town to Hapa Niemi. Sunday the fourth M. Sommereux and myself crossed it, to go to sec M. Viguelius at his house of Granwik : we were obliged to make use of a boat, to go from the shore to the ice, and again from the ice to land ; a south wind had swelled the river, by driving up the waters of the gulf, which caused the ice to break along the sides. The vrater, notwithstanding, was much lower than on the twenty-eighth of October, when we passed in a boat over the isthmus of Nara ; we crossed it on foot. A VOYAGK TO THE NOUTll- oO*. returning from Granwik to the town ; it is true, we were obliged to step irom stone to stone. The ice, owing to the rapidity of the water, was not firm there, although the cold was so intense tliat our shoes were glued to die stones, upon our waiting only for t^venty seconds in the sjime place. M. Marilius, a surveyor, arrived from Stockholm, to sec our o|x*rations : he was sent by M. Nodelcreutz, director of the office established at Stock- holm for geograpliv, and charts and maps of the kingdom. It was M. Nodelcreutz who prepared for us in his office the chiuts of the coasts and islands of the gulf. The weather continued fine, and observations with the sextant were made every day, as well as aiuld be wished ; they were continued on Monday night the fifth ; but during the night it began to snow. It continued on Tuesday morning the sixth, and from that time till towards the end of May, there was neither ice nor earth to be seen, there was nothing but snow. People began travelling in sledges on the rivers and lakes, as if upon land. Orders were issued, and almost as immediately executed, for planting small firs on the ice in avenues along all the places through which the road was to go, which is most usually made over the ice, as soon as sufficiently strong, on account of its being more even, and the shortest way. They are obliged every year thus to mark the road, witliout which it would be im- possible to follow it, and travellers would frequently be lost in the snow, when increased to the height of four or five feet. The first sledges which pass over the snow press down and harden it ; soon other snow falls, which fills up the road, and which succeeding sledges, keeping the same path, harden anew ; so that by the middle of winter the snows which have fallen, or which frequently the winds have drifted into the road, thus hiu*- dened, present a kind of highway, extremely hard, as high as the rest of the snow above the ice or ground. Wednesday the seventh it was so cold, that the thermometers fell to 20 degrees below the freezing point : in the remarkable year of 1709 it did not fall below 14 i degrees. This extreme cold did not last long. Thursday morning the eighth it was much milder. Friday the ninth, and Saturday the tenth, ll thawed ; already a foot and a half of snow had fallen ; a good part had thawed ; but the ice was not yet sufficiently hard to be.'ir. Sunday morning the eleventh the sky was partly clear, and we prepared every thing for observing the passage of Mercury over the disk of the sun ; but fog succeeding, we were not able to make the least observation. The weather became more cold, and it froze very hard till Wednesday night. Monday the twelfth was a grand holiday, the feast of All Saints, according to old stile, which is followed by the Swedes : in the morn- ing were two services in the church of the town, and one in die afternoon. The last vessels were not yet returned from Stockholm ; they were expected with impatience, and much apprehension was entertained for them from the north winds, and more rij^d frosts, which would freeze the Gulf of Bothnia. It created much joy on Thursday morning the fifteenth, to liehold the wind turn to the south : it continued Friday the sixteenth, ^vith snow from time to time, and a beginning of thaw, which lasted throughout Saturday the seventeenth, and Sunday the eighteenth. The wind was continually south, and very violent ; the ice began to be dangerous ; a horse harnessed to a sledge was drowned, but the men in it were saved. The violence of the ^vind threw so much water from the gulf into the river, that our little observatory was already a foot under water : Messrs. de Maupertuis, Le Monnier and myself, went in a boat, to bring away the quadrant, the pendulum, and the English instrument, which however we could not effect, without being up to the knees in water. Miss Bek, the lady to whom the medicines were sent from Pello, was lately married to Dr. Ervaste : it was he who preached on Sunday ; the subject was, the father of a R K 2 ;•'■! ) .,., .-^j^.. ac . If I' 308 OUTIIIER'S JOURNAL OF i':} ■1| family celebrating the nuptials of his son. Monday the nineteenth the same mild wea- ther continued, with a violent wind. Thursday the twenty- second, the interment of a young girl, who died the fourth of the month, took place ; she was exposed for fifteen days at ncr mother's, with her face uncovered ; all the in! ibitants of the town and neigh> bourhood attended the funeral ; from all quarters people were flocking in sledges, the ice having become firm again, and travelling safe ; there was only half a foot of snow. I went with M. Camus over the ice to Matila on Friday the twenty-third, to visit M. Piping, our fii^st host ; it was scarcely two o'clock when we saw the sun set. The ships which were expected from Stockholm had arrived pretty near the shore on Saturday the seventeenth of die month, but the ice had prevented their reaching it, and was not strong enough to bear on sledges the merchandise they brought ; many of the men had got to the town over the ice ; my host was one of the number, and had arrived on Saturday last. This day, the twenty-fourth, the ice was sufliciently firm, and some of the goods were brought on shore : they consisted of grain, rye, rice, cabbages, salt, apples, and some oranges ; till four days more they did not trust their heavier com- modities to the ice, less aipable of bearing, and more dangerous on the gulf than what it was In the river. Aldiough the different observations made at Tomeo and at Pello all agreed to two or three seconds, and though there was no ground for suspecting any injury to have hap- pened to die instrument, in its passage from Pello to Tomeo, particularly as it was trans- ported in a lx)at, M. de Maupertuis, always as scrupulous as he had been upon the moun- tains with respect to the observadons on the angles, thought of nothing but of contriving means for verifying the observations made with the sextant. We talked of taking it back to Pello ; but it was resolved, instead of this, which was a difficult expedient, and would have taken a long time, to transport it to Matila, a quarter of a league from Tomeo, and observe whether, after bringing it back and replacing it in the observatory, subsequent observations made upon the same star would have the same results, so proving no altera- tion in the instrument. Tuesday the twenty -seventh we got every thing ready, in order to observe, as soon as the weather would allow us. We began as well to prepare whatever might be neces- sary to us for the measure of our base ,• while M. Brunius got made at Oswer Tomeo eight large rods, very straight, each five toises long, with a good number of supports, according to the idea which we had ^ven him, and which we had entreated him to at- tend to. We lived very comfortably at Tomeo. M. Duriez, lieutenant-colonel, the rector, named Proubst, that is to say, priest, answering to deans in our dioceses, our ancient host M. Piping, M. Viguelius, the brother of M. Bmnius, made up our general society} they were pleasant and sensible men : as for the rest, our unanimity and gaiety wc^ sum- ient for making our mode of life agreeable. The inhabitants of the country had con- :,2ived a friendship for us. M. Helant, our interpreter for the Finnish language, in- ,} "med us at dinner on Wednesday the twenty-eighth, that several countrymen wished to go to France with us, where they said they would teach our fishermen how to take salmon. Thursday the twenty-ninth the weather became very mild, the thermometers stood at the freezing point : the wind was south, pretty strong, and drove the water of the river over the tdges of the ice. Saturday the first of December was fine, and an observation was made with the sextant. Sunday the second two Laplanders from Corpikyla came to Tomeo, each drawn by a rein-deer. We had never seen these sledges in motion before ; the con«* niction of C(4> A VOYAGE TO 1111". KOnill. 309 them is singular, and the Laplanders and Fins made use of them with wonderful skill. I shall speak more at large of them at the twenty-seventh of December. Monday the third was fine, and we made other observations with the sextant. The cold increased of a sudd.n so much, that, on Tuesday morning the fourth, the thermometer of spirits of wine was at 18 degrees, and that of mercury at 22 degrees, beluw the freezini; point. During the night, and all day on Wedr 'sday the lifth, it snowed. Thursda} morning the sixth we took off the telescojx: from the foot of the sextant; ^ve put it into its box, and caused it to be carried to Matila, and brought back again into the observa- tory. The good people were very much surprised at this ceremony ; they looked upon it in some measure as mysterious : some of them asked M Helant how he came not to attend the procession of the French? We replaced the sextant on its pedestiil : that night we made an observation, which gave the same elevation to the star, and shewed that the sex- tant had not suffered by all the motion given it in the porterage : by a second observation, made on Saturday, we found still the same height for the star. Wednesday evening the seventh M. Brunius arrived, and was to go back on Friday morning : the rods for the measure of the base were made, as well as the supports : but we knew not how to act. Were we to measure the base now, or defer it until the spring ? A great deal of snow had fallen already, and frequently it snowed ; sometimes even the weather was mild, and it rained, as was the case all this day ; all this rendered the work of measurement very difficult, and very laborious. In putting it off till the spring, we were sure of having much longer days ; and had a right to expect that the surface of the snow, a little melted by the rays of the sun, and afterwards hitfdened by the frost at night, would make a crust hard enough for us to walk upon, and perform our work with ease. Many citizens of Torneo advised us to put off the measurement till the spring, when the days would be longer, and the cold less severe. M. Brunius and some others gave different advice ; they said some considerable thuw might take place sooner than expected, and we run the risk of losing our measurements. After consulting among ourselves, Saturday the eighth, and Sunday the ninth, it was resolved that M. Clairaut, M. Celsius and myself, should go to the spot, to examine if the operation was then practicable. We took two sledges, and all three departed, with one servant, on Monday afternoon the tenth : we passed by Matila and Neder Wojakala, thence we crossed the river, to go to change horses at Oswer Wojakala; from which place we proceeded continually among woods as far as Kukula, on the eastern bank of the river, because the ice was not passable in the cataracts ; they were very rugged there, with large chasms in them in several places. From Kukula we crossed the river again, to go to change horses at Lactilu : we left it at half past five o'clock, and arrived at three quarters past six at Corpikyla, at the house of Tepane Piping, where we supped, slept, and took fresh horses on Tuesday morning the eleventh. We passed on still among woods, on the western side of the river, and passed over a small like in the forest of Taipala. We arrived at Witza Niemi, whence we went down upon ;he ice of the river : we passed before Pckila, near to the church of Hieta Niemi, and from there to Coifwun- kyla ; we changed horses there, and after leaving Niemisby, we followed very near the line of our base, as far as Mickolen Sari, whence we proceeded to M. Brunius's, where we arrived at noon. We had a long conference with him on the project we had formed of measuring our base immediately; he strongly advised it, notwithstanding the difficulties started by M, Celsius. > Monday it was very cold, and still more so on Tuesday. The last night, while we were at Corpikyla, the wood with which the houses are built cracked with a loud noise, 1 i ,.. 11 < n inw jt.1 I*! ilO OlfTIHRIt'S JOimVAI. rtl- ♦(,; iis though it was about to split in every direction. Tuesday evening the weather was milder, it snowed, and spoiled all the r(xid», greatly retarding our return. VVe were how- ever inidcr nu apprehensions of mistaking our road, iKcause it was marked by trees on one side and the other. We traced the same road we came by. The road upon the river wm perfectly safe, except over the cataracts. Above Waojenna, and through a g(x)d part of its current, there was a considerable space not frozen, from which continually a prodigious quantity of vapour arose, thrown up by the impetuous motion of the water. VVe arrived at ten o'clock at Torneo : we made our report on the state in which we found the ice and snow, and the next day, Thursday the thirteenth, in the morning, it was resolved to go and measure. We prepared every thing necessary for this work, and every one made his individual arrangements. M. Camus and myself departed, Friday the fourteenth, at nine in the morning, to adjust the rods w ith which we were to measure, and trace the line of the base. Messrs. Helant and Herbclot came with us ; \vc h.id five sledges, in which we took a (]uadrant and some necessary instruments, thermometers, files, mallets, and several iron works for our measures. We arrived a little after eight o'clock at the house of M. Brunius, where we found one room short of our former accommodation ; his sister-in-law, wife of the chaplain of Tomeo, was on a visit to him. We managed as well as we could, I had my bed with me, which I laid on a large table. Saturday the fifteenth, and Sunday the sixteenth, there was dull weather, and it snowed occasionally. Monday the seventeenth the weather was fine ; we went to look about the course of the base ; on the eighteenth we liegan to fix stakes, and continued our work on Tuesday. Messrs. de Mauiiertuis, Clairaut, Monnier, Celsius, and Sommc- reux, arrived the same day, and Tuesday we were all assembled together at the house of M. Brunius. We had brought from Paris an iron toise, well adjusted by that of Chatclet, with a standard of iron as well, into which the toise exactly entered. Both one and the other were adjusted at Paris, at a tin.c that the ihcrniometers were 14 degrees above 0, of Reau- mur. Wednesday the nineteenth we kept them in a chamber of the same temperament, by means of a good fire. We made five toises of fir, which we armed at each of their ex- tremities with a large round headed nail, filing it away till the toise exactly fitted the standard. We carried our precision so fiu", that a sheet of paper could not enter between the measures and the standard. While we were adjusting the toises, beds were prepared for us, and I ceased from keeping mine on the table. Thursday the twentieth, while M. le Monnier and some others continued fixing stakes along the base, Messrs. Camus and myself, with the five toises which we had adjusted the day before, had fashioned eight long fir rods, of the length of five toises each. We made for this purpose a sort of long standard. We fixed in the apartment a large nail, and another in the porch, at a distance some trifle short of five toises ; we placed supports in a line, forming a kind of scaffold from one nail to another ; we ranged along them our five toises, end to end, very carefully. We then drove our two nails apart, and filed away from them just enough to allow of the five toises, when they were closely joined at their ends, to enter bet^veen them, the nails being driven into the wooden walls of the house. It was between these two large nails that we adjusted our eight rods, as exacdy as possi- ble of the length of thirty feet. We proved the length of the five wooden toises, and after- wards the distance of thirty feet, between the two large nails. We made ready on Friday the twenty-first to begin our measurement from the northern signal. As a great deal of snow had fallen, eight machines were prepared to clear the road for those who measured : they were large logs of wood, fastened together A \(lVA(.i: TO TIIF, NORTH. >ll in the hhapc of a trianglo, drawn l)V a horse, with the most acute anele foremost, m> that the sides, cncrcasiufr to the end, ranged the snow on both sides. Those machines, each of which was so heavy that one horse could scarcely draw it, did not however sink deep enough into the snow, and had not all the cHlct which the ecjuntry iKople gave us reason to expect, so that we made no further use of them. As soon as we had arrived at the northern extremity of our base, between ten and eleven o'clock, we concerted together, to begin exactly at the centre of the signal, and to go on the ice from the shore some toises distant from the signal : we then divid' d into two parties, each consisting of four measurers. Each of us had a pencil ; som*^ made use of paper, others hung a slip of board to their neck, on which to mark a stroki with dieir pencil every time they laid down their rod. We did not trust these rods to any of the country people, nor even to our servants; they only supported one end of them, to help us in carrying them, one of us always holding the other, and taking care to unite exactly the nail which ended it with that at die extremity of the one before. Wc had the precaution to mark our rods, that they might succeed m the same order ; already we had measured seven hundred toises at h;df past two, \vhcn night coming on, we returned to the house of M. Brunius. That day it was exceeding cold ; the thermometer was at 18 degrees below the freezing point. While we were upon the base, M. Ic Monnier drinking some brandy out of a silver cup, his tongue was glued to it, in such a manner as to tear off the skin. Saturday the twenty-second it became milder ; it snowed a litde till noon ; it did not however interrupt our measuring ; even till three o'clock the weather became ojien, enabling us to see sufficiently well. Sunday the twenty -third was very mild and ckar ; while wc were on the base at noon, we saw the sun entire, elevated about a (|uartcr of a degree, that is to say, about half its diameter above the horizon, in the direction of die river ; we saw it as well on Tuesday the twenty-fifth; it rose at half-past eleven, and set half an hour after noon. The weather continued fine and moderate on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesdey. Messrs. De Cederstrom and Mcldecreutz came to sec us measure, and remained with us Tuesda) and Wednesday. Wednesday the twenty-sixth, in the evening, the cold increased ; wc all suffered f'eatly in returning to M. Brunius's, from which wc now proceeded as far as full two rench leagues. We got into our sledges, heated by the exercise of measuring, and proceeded two leagues ni this state without moving our limbs, and exjwsed to an ex- treme cold ; notwithstanding which none of us was materially injured ; 'tis true M. de Maupertuis had some of his toes frost nipped ; and I for some weeks felt pain in my fin- gers ; but this was little to what we had a right to apprehend. Wednesday evening the thermometer was at 15 degrees below the freezing point, and Thursday at 25 degrees. On the twenty-seventh there was yet one part of the base to measure, which ^\'as not planted with stakes ; Messrs. Clairaut and Camus went to fix them, while M. dc Mau- pertuis and myself undcrook a short but terrible excursion. On taking observations of the angles at Avasaxa, wc had omitted to take the height of a tree whicli entered into the angles observed. This could not cause any sensible error in our observations, but M. de Maupertuis was too scrupulous to pass over the slightest matter. We therefore ascended Avasaxa, drawn in pulkas by rein-deer : they are sledges made like small bouts, p'^'''*?d before, and ending in a keel, which is only two or three inches broad. The Laplanders have sledges of this description five or six feet long, which are used for transporting their dry fish and rein-deer skins; but those common among the inha- bitants for travelling, wliich were what we made use of, are at most only four feet long ; II 3 i » I .• \ 1^ \ I 312 oimiir.n'fl journal of tin- deck of these sledges U covered with lM)ard8, and on the cdji;c of them a rein deer's skin is nailed, which lie who travels \n the nulku draws over his breast, and fasten*! witli cords round his body, to prevent the snow, in which he is sometimes nearly buried, from entering the sledge. The principal difficulty is to paserve a balance, the milkas luiving no more footing than the skaits which are commonly used in France. M. Brunius, who accompanied us, accustomed to this sort of coiweyance, managed his so well, that he preserved a perfect equilibrium ; M. de Mau|)ertuis and myself were continually over- setting ; when we attempted to raise ourselves with a little stick on one side, we fell over to the other; M. de Mau|x:rtuiseven bruised his arm. The rein-deer which drew us are a kind of stag, whose horns arc large, with the brunches turned down before. These animals serve for many purjioses : the flesh of them is eaten, which is tender, but insipid ; the inhabitants, narticidarly the LaplaiKlers, dry and keep it for u long time ; with the nerves of them they make thread, which is used esiKcially for sewing of the planks of boats together ; they cat their milk, and make cnecse of it, which is not good. Their skin serves for dresses, particularly that of the ^oung ones, the hair of which is soft. There is no inhabitant whatsoever, whe- ther Fni, or Laplander, or even Swede, without his coat of rein-deer skin ; we as well had each of us one of them ; dicy arc called Lapmudes, and are used instead of great coats. The hair is worn outside, and it is lined with cloth, serge, or another skin, with the hair turned inwards. Of the skin of the old rein-deer, stockings or rather pliant boots ore made, the hair of which also is worn outside ; they are very warm, and very serviceable for walking with on the snow, when it freezes ; when it thaws, they are not wonv* /Rein-deer arc used for travelling in places difficult for horses to pass, or in (ouniries ivherc there is a scarcity of fodder for horses, as in the neighbourhood of Kengis, and to the north of it, that is to say, in all the northern part of that continent. Some travel- lers have pretended, that on being told in its ear the place tc which you were disposed to go, the rein -deer understood you ; this is a mere tale ; they are very fleet, but not strong ; harnessed to a sledge, provided the road were well beaten, they might travel thirty leagues in u day ; but when the road is not hard, and well beaten, and the snow resists the sledge, the rein-deer gets on with difficulty, and very slowly. It has the advantage of being able to find its food everywhere. When tired, his master, well wrapped up to keep himself from the cold, loosens the animal, who does not wander far : he scratches up the snow, and at bottom finds a white moss, which is almost his only food, so that the traveller only carries provision for himself; he puts it on the head or fore part of the sledge. A matter which will appear extraordinary is, that on a journey to Wardhuis the traveller is obliged to carry provision of wood, on account of passing over great extents of country entirely naked, and without trees. From the house of M. Brunius we proceeded over the ice with dreadful rapidity, there the road being beaten as far as Narki, at which place we were at the foot of the mountain. It was entirely covered with snow, there was no beaten track, and we had to apprehend falling between rocks, where we should have been overwhelmed in the snow. A Fin, who had long and narrow boards fastened to his feet, walked slowly before us, to fathom the road ; he led with a string the rein-deer of the first sledge : this poor animal sunk into the snow up to its belly, and had great difficulty, as well as those which followed him, to draw us to the top of the mountain ; we were frequently obliged to stop for them to rest, and take breath. We however arrived, and immediately made ready our quadrant of eighteen inches, for taking our observations, while two Laplanders and a Lapland woman, who served A V0Y40B TO THJC NORTH. 31J us fbr guides, made a Ux)^ fire, and the rdn-dcer were diffgino; in titc Know, and Cvvd- \ng on die moM they fuuiul. TIk* cold wus so extreme, tliat tn - uiiuwdid nut nic-lt be. lure tlie fire, nor a foot from it. On going down the mountain, our Lu|)lunder8 cau> tioned u» to pluuge our sticks into tlK* snow as deep uh we could, to lessen the velocity ol the Nlcdgi^H, and to prevcu their eontinuiUly fulling on tlie hind kvH of the rein-deer, which were fastened to them. When we were ut die iMttoni uf the mouutuin, our Luplandcni lefl Uieir own sledges at Nurki, and cucJi guide seated himself on the fore* part of a slodKc, aikl kept it poised with singular address. We went all the way to the nouseof M. urunius without once ovcrturnnig, and very rapidly. M. MuritiuB, belonging to the chart and map-office ol' Stockholm, arrived at Tornco, and came to sec us conthiuc and complete our measurement of the l)ase, and returned again to Tomco. We measured in two distinct parties, as before noticed ; Uic result of tlic mciuiurement of one was seven diouHiind four hundred and six toises live feet four inches, of the other seven thousand four hundred and six toises five feet exactly. The second party, in meaauring, fixed in the ice a stake at every hundred toises. M. dc Maupertuis, Camus, and myself, went on Saturday the twenty-ninth, arul Sunday the thirtieth, to be certain that no error had occurred in the number of the hundreds, and measured, with a long cord of fifty toises, the whole length of the base. We competed this at three o'clock in the afternoon of Sunday ; a quantity of snow fell, with a bleak north wind. M- de Maupertuis with M. Hclunt set off fur Tomeo, to which Clace Messrs. Cbiraut, Le Monnier, Sommcreux, and HerlK'lot, had gone the Friday cfore. M. Camus and myself returned to M. Brunius, whom we left on Monday morning the thirty-first, accompanied by M. Celsius, and two servants, and arrived at Tomeo at seven o'clock in the evening. It was very fine in the morninK* and suificiently temperate, but at four in the afternoon a very cold south wind blew, with snow. Tuesday the first of January was very fine, but very cold : the thermometer re- mained for a long time at 20 degrees, and even fell so low as 22 degrees, below the freezing point. Wednesday morning the second the thermometer of mercury was at 28 degrees, and that of spirit of wine at 25 degiees. On the evening of the same day the cold increased, the thermometer of mercury was at 31} degrees, and a bottle of strong French brandy was quickly frozen. We heard the wood of which the houses are built, in the night, crack with a great noise. The noise resembled that of mus- quetry. In spite of this dreadful cold, the inhabitants travel a great deal, and seem to prefer this season for their business. Thursday the third it snowed in quantities : at night the sky was clear, and Friday morning the fourth it was covered with aurorse boreales ; the thermometers were at 25 degrees and 28 degrees, which they continued to be at on Saturday the fifth, the day on which they kept Christmas, which they call Jnle ; the inhabitants passed a great part of the day at church, and the rest in their houses, very much retired, and occupied with reading, or singing the psalms and candcles of the church. The thermotneter of mercury in the evening was 31 degrees, and Sunday morning the sixth 33 deg^es. An entire botde of French brandy was frozen in a room without a fire. The evening of the same day the thermometer was at 37 degrees, while that of spirit of wine was but at 29 degrees, and this last was frozen on Monday morning the seventh, and had risen to the temperature of the cellars of the observatory. M. de Maupertuis carried it into his room in this state ; immediately after thawing it fell a great deal, and afterwards rose to the temperature of the apartment. The weather became milder in the evening, and the thermometer of mercury was at 25 degrees ; a. quantity of snow fell, with a south wind. M. de Maupertuis had begun at the house of M. Brunius, while we were measuring VOL. I. s s *ii n\ '■I II It h, ! i ' I 314 oirTlliru'n JOtrR\Al. OF ihc l);i8c, an experiment, which lie repented sicvcrul times at Tomco, to ascertain if the toiscs nnd ickIh of wotxU were lenfi^hened, or shortened, by the diHerrnt tem|)er.iture<» of uir : he kept continually in his imurtment two of tlK* W(xx(en toincM that we had adjusted in the iron ittandard, nnd two otners without in the «:ourt ; he never distinguished any sensible diminution or lengthening; ; he wus nither of opinion thiU those which hud Ikch exposed to the cold were lengthened. By the height or dintuncc from tlie zenith of the star / of the dragon, taken at I*ello nnd Torneo, we obtained the amplitude of the arc of the meridian comprehended iK-tween the two observatories. We had but to com- {Mire it with the distance in toises from Kittis to Torneo, which we were enabled to cal- culate, after ascertaining the length of our l)ase. The Parallel of die observatory of Torneo was different from that of the steeple, which served for the point of the last triangle. We had not measured the distance between these parallels; but, from the measurement I h;id made for taking a plan of the town, I knew within u trifle the dis- tance between them. We every one were occupied in private, calculating our triangles. M. de Maupcrtuis luis published those which he made by sevend successions of triangles, in his book on the Figure of the Karth, with all the corrections, and subtractions, which the most rigid geometrici;in could re(|uire. Besides our usual occupations, and the observations which we had sometimes the op. portunity of making, although very rnrely, every one had some distinct pastime : I passed many of my leisure moments in copying fair the plan of the town of Torneo which I had taken, and the course of the river comprised withii« the extent of our tri- angles : M. dc Maupcrtuis had brought a great number of books, which he lent to us ; we were rather long at table after dinner and supix:r ; frequently visited each other ; went often to sec our friends in the town and neighbourhood. These, together, made our time pass pleasantly enough. During the night the wind abated, and Tuesday the eighth it was fair, and not so cold. In the morning I went to see our old landlord the burgo master, and afterwards we all went to dine with die licuter nt-colonel, who had invited us. There was a large com- pany, we were twcnty-ninc at table, fourteen ladi's and fifteen gentlemen. It was All Saints Day ; we saw one lunidrcd Fins come ou'i f»f church at noon, who were re- turning to their houses, some in town, some in (hjc country, higher up the river. This succession of so large a number of sledges form d a singular spectacle, nnd at Hapu Niemi wc were most advantageously placed for seeing it. Wednesday the ninth was fine, and rather mild, ns well as the next day ; still the thermometers were at 17 degrees to 19 degrees, and although the cold was much more intense than it was in France in 1709, we could bear it very well. Thursday the tenth there was a grand dinner at Papilla, or Preskhot (the presbytery, or priest's house) at Mr. Foulq's, tnc rector of Torneo : during the night, and on Fri- day the eleventh, it snowed, with very mild weather ; the thermometer of mercury was no more than 3 degrees below the freezing point, and that of spirits of wine 5 degrees ; instead o*" which diftcrence, before the severe colds of Sunday and Monday, they were both of them at the same degree, 4 degrees or 5 degrees below 0. Saturday the twelfth was new year's day, a great holiday in this country ; it was fine, but rather cold. After dinner M. Duriez arrived with his lady; they supped with us, and did not leave us till midnight. The cold increased continuall), and on Sunday the thirteenth, at noon, the thermometers were, that of mercury at 27 degrees, and that of spirits of wine at 23 degrees. Monday the fourteenth it was less cold, and in the after, noon it snowed, with a strong south wind. Tuesday the fifteenth the two thermometers were at 13 degrees ; it was cloudy, and snowed all night. Thursday the seventeenth it continued to be very mild, at least we found it such^ although it froze hard : M. de Maupcrtuis invited to dinner all those who had shewn us A \l)VA(ie TO Tin. NOHTII. J 15 re »♦ le lof jr. frs civiliticK, and the principul inhnbitantM of the town, wc wore thirty -1^0 Ht taUle, and treated them haiulHomcly. The eoiirt and "itrcct were full of Fiiw, and ehildren, who eume to Hee the novelty of the entertainment. It wan at the time of the fair of Jukas Jerfwi : it l)C|i;ins the fourteenth of Januar)\ and endn the day of the Converition of St. I*aul. It in held thirty miles from Tonuo, about sixty Freneh leugue>( ; the citizens of Tornco [^> there in crowds ; they alone havi: the rii^ht of huyin^r there. They are obliged tool)tain a [icrmit from the governor oithe provma: to jjfoto this fair; this costs them three dollars, worth nlK)Ut thirty-four or thirty-five sous of French nioney t were they to go to this fair without this licence, they would be fined one hundred and fifty dollars Coppermyth, that is to say, eighty livres French money (the silver dollar being worth about thirty-four sous, the cop|)crmyth dollar only eleven sous.) To go any where else reciuircs a similar permit ; however, when they arc going no farther than Oswcr Torneo, or Pello, the allowance of the lieutenant-colonel who commands in the town is sufficient, and is given gratis. They det ofi'tbr die fair of J ulcas Jerfwi in their sledges, drawn by horses as far as Oswer Tor- neo ; there they tiike sledges drawn by rcin-oeer, and send their horses back. They have at the place where the fair is held a great number of shops, which belong to them, wherein they dwell. Phese shops, which are abandoned during the rest of the year, com^xise the village of Jukas Jerfwi, with the church and the house of the rector. It is diere that the citizens of Torneo trade with the Laplanders ; they carry there some bot- tles of low brandy, syrup which they bring from Stockholm, u,m dried bread in cakes. The Laplanders 1" exchange give them cod, and other dried fish, skins, and dried meat of the rein-deer, !. ar and foxes skins, of different colours, ermines and martins. I wished to sec this fair; the base being measured, I hod leisure, but I could r '>r find any suitable com|)any to go with, the burgomaster not going. I did not much regat it, how- ever, the whole country being covered wid» snow, so that I could not have distinguished cither lakes or rivers, scarcely even the forests. Friday the eighteenth the weather was delightful, not at •^' tain, disposing properly the sex ant for observing the passage of the star a of the dra^ (. They began to make their observations on Thursday morning the fourth, and continued it the succeeding days. The balls which M. Camus had made of different metals were finished, and M. de Maupertuis had brought them. The pendulum of M. Julien Le Roi v^as phced in the stone s** ^t room, its rod was split, and was separable into two pieces ; tlie diHereat balls were successively fitted to it, to observe the length or the number of their vibrations in a determined time, which was known by the pendulum of Mr. Graham, regulated by the observation of Rcgulus, keeping the temi^erature of the apartment always the same, by increasing the fire, o: suffering the admission of cold air at the door. Thursday night the thermometer out of the room was 9 degrees below 0. And Friday morning the fifth it was 17 degrees ; the night was fine, we made the observation with the sextant. M. de Maupertuis had his bed placed in the apartment of the stone shafl, where the pendulums were, in order to be n.jre within reach of preserving a regular heat. That day the Annunciation of the Virgin was celebrated with great solemnity : We continued our observations on the simple pendulums ; we made that of the passage of Regulus by *'>e fixed telescope ; afterwards, M. Le Monnier and myself went to observe the star a of the dragon with the sextant ; we were very well satisfied witl» thte observation. : a. little after we took the elevation of Venus, at its passage to the meridian towards the north ; she was 1 degree 15 minutes above the horizon. We descended from the mountain, and entered our apartments on Saturday the sixth, at three in the morning. The twilight finished at eleven o'clock at night, and the dawn began at one in the morning. The thermometers yesterday were in the evening at 12 degrees below 0, and this morning they were at 16 degrees. The wood of the houses cracked, as it had done in the months of December and January ; M. de Maupertuis was all the morning observing the balls, and I all the afternoon. Again it was exceeding cold during the night. Sunday the seventh, at five o'clock in the morning, the thermometer of spirits of wine was at 20 degrees, and Monday morning the eighth at 18 degrees. These two days we continued the observations of the balls and pendulums. We went to the mountain on Monday, to take dotvn and pack up the sex> tant, and the other instruments, to be ready to return the sooner tc Torneo. The cold still continued, and Tuesday morning the ninth the thermometers of spirits of v/Lie were 17t degrees below : there were yet some balls and pendulums to make experiments ■ ii A VOYAGE TO THE NORTH. 319 with, which was done on Tuesday and VVcdnesdii^ ; and on Thursday the eleventh we setoff to return to Torneo, where we arrived on Friday the twelfth, in the sil'tcrnoon. M. de Maupcrtuis had set off from Pc!lo with M. Celsius, to go beyond Kengis, to look after a great stone, on which certain characters were engraven, and which was spoken of as a curious monument. They only arrived at Torneo on Sunday the four- teenth, at ten or eleven at night. We remained at Pello as short a time as possible : it was time to come back to Torneo, in order to prevent our being exposed to the ha- zard of l)eing obliged to wait five or six weeks, or perhaps longer, at Pello. Travelling b altogether impracticable during the height of the thaws, whether by land or water ; these begin earlier or later, and last sometimes a very long while. The snow began to melt, afterwards it froze again, and formed a crust sulHciently hard to bear almost every where. On Monday the fifteenth the weather was fine ; but on Tuesday the sixteenth there was a south wind, and much snow. The thermometers at 4 degrees below 0. Thursday the eighteenth, in the holy week, the inhabitants went to church ; there was a sermon, but no communion. On Friday the nineteenth they went more gene- rally : they gave a sermon, with the oommunion ; many received the Lord's Supper. In die afternoon a second discourse was given, and the priest sang something from the pulpit. They do not fast commonly, even on Good-Friday ; tney however practise some mortifications, as they think proper ; some, more devout than the rest, ate nothing during the whole of Friday. Saturday the twentieth, and Easter- Sunday, the twenty- first, very fine and mild weather, the snow melted in the sun. Easter-day, the rector and the ministers did not administer the communion : people, however, went to church, and a sermon was given morning and evening. M. de Maupertuis, immediately after his return from Pello, resumed his observations on the lengthening, or diminution of length, of the wooden toises, from exposure to heat and cold. During Easter week we observed the variation of the needle, which we found to be 5 degrees and about 5 minutes ; it was nearly che same as we noticed in the Baltic, before our arrival at Stockholm. The house which M. Camus lodged at looked upon the bay which the river forms to the west of the town ; and one of the rooms was a very fit one to verify the sextant and its divisions in, by actual measurement upon the ice. M. Camus caused the floor of the room to be taken up, in order to fix with more firmness, upon a vault which was below, two strong cross trees, to serve as a support for the sextant, and enable it to move in the line of the horizon with its divided limb. M. de Maupertuis sent a servant to Oswer Torneo, who brought thence four of the large rods, wth which we measured the base, for the purpose of measuring a suitable space for the proving of the sextant. The weather was continually changring : at times the snow melted, especially when the wind was southerly ; at others it snowed again, and frequently it was very cold. Tuesday the thirtieth, after Low Sunday, there was a great dinner at the rector's, at Preskhot : we were invited ; but as there was to be a prodigious number of guests, and as we saw sledges going there from every quarter, M. de Maupeituis, M. Somme- reux, and myself, did not go, nor M. Camus, whose health was not yet perfecUy re- established. Wednesday the first of May, at half past two in the morning, we saw Venus, on her passing the meridian towards the north, elevated about 4 degrees above the horizon ; it nad frozen very hard, and the weather was beautiful ; the heat of the sun melted the snow from nine in the morning till six at night. M. Camus and myself adjusted to their proper length of five toises, the four rods which were brought from Oswer Torneo, and which were found each too short by about half a line. ^.:\ .1 *i ! h iji ( "i I' A 320 OUTHIER'S JOURNAL OK Saturday the third wc placed in the «ce a large log, with a sight opposite to the ixwm wherein M. Camus had caused the sextant to be fixed horizontally, at the distance of three hundred and eighty toises. We afterwards placed a log of wood, as large as the first, with a sight in such a position, that a line drawn from it to the first sight should fall perpendicularly on the line drawn from the first sight to the centre of the object-glai' :, of the sextant. In this last space, of upwards of three hundred and ciglity toises, not half a line of difference was found on our twice measuring it. Sunday the fifth, after mass, we began to observe the angle which the two objects formed at the sextant : we began on Monday the sixth, and finished on Tuesday the seventh. It was yet cold at times ; but it began to thaw, the snow melted, and occa- sionally it rained ; all this made the roads very bad. The letters, which ordinarily ar- rived on Sunday and Monday, did not reach us till Wednesday tlie eighth. On the first of the month I was present ' "'th small sprigs of birch in a phial, as flowers are wont to be presented in France. ^varmth of my apartment made die sprigs open their leaves. By night it froze a litu* in the day-time it was fine, or at least mild. On Thursday the ninth the ground appeared ; being fine, we walked out of the town to the Bolplass (bowling-green.) A part of the isle of Lammas was visible ; not- withstanding, people passed over to it upon the ice, and there were there already two horses, who had left their master's house. At our return, passing by the church, we saw the funeral procession of a girl; it consisted often men, dressed in black, who carried the bier ; the priests and assistants, five or six in number, followed, having the father in the midst of them ; after them, another relative of the deceased. The procession was ver}' orderly, and well conducted : no female accompanied it, it is not the custom ; they go to the church before. Friday the ninth, and the two following days, are set aside for familiar instruction. A catechism is made, in which, indifferently, young and old are examined. Thursday, and Saturday the eleventh, it is conducted in the Finnish language, for i ■^, men and maid servants ; and on Friday in Swedish, for the burghers, who attend very punctually. Sunday the twelfth the weather pretty fine, the thaw continued ; and on Tuesday the fourteenth the water began to spread in quantity over the surface of the ice, and made the passing over it very difficult. The bui^omaster and M. Viguelius came to reside in the town till the passage in boats should be free, after the melting and dispersion of the ice. A great number of country people coming to town had planks on their feet, four or five inches wide, and eight feet long : they make use of them in winter for hunting with, and travelling over the snow, when there is no beaten road. These skaits are also useful during the thaws to pass over the ice with ; they hinder it, weak as it is in some places, from giving way u.ider them. They use, particularly in the fo- rests, machines of this description, of no more than six feet long. M. de Maupertuis, before the thaw, caused a lump of ice to be cut out of the river ; it was two feet thick : we were told that it was frequently thicker ; but that the snow, which had fallen immediately after the first frosts, prevented its becoming so thick as usually it did. The post did not arrive until Wednesday night the fifteenth, owing to the snow, and the difficulty of the passages. Thursday the sixteenth, the weather being pretty fine, we walked into the northern part of the island, where more than half the ground Nvas visible. Friday the seven- teenth, and Saturday the eighteenth, it was colder; some snow fell, and it froze dur. ing the night. Sunday the niineteenth was finer. Monday the twentieth it snowed all day, but it melted immediately along the streets ; howev r, lai^ heaps of it remained. Tuesday the twenty.first it was fine : in walking about we looked for some proper A VOYAf.K TO TlIK KOItl H. 321 place on which to erect a monument, commemorative of our exi)edition, with asuitabli' uiscription. On going out of the town wc found a large rock, which was not far front the church; we examined it, and findii\g it solid, began to work upon it. In thiscoun try tl y have no masons : instead of working with the mallet, they make a fire on the rock, and when the part they wish to open is sufticiently heated, they throw water upon it, which makes the rock splinter. A letter which M. de Maupertuis received, on Wed- nesday the twenty- second, stopix.'d the work. We thought of nothing now but re- turning to France, as soon as the navigation should be free. The same day M. dc Maupertuis learnt, by a letter from M. de Maurepas, that liis majesty had granted a pension of a thousand livres to M. Celsius. Friday the twenty-fourth was another of those grand prayer-days which I have be- fore noticed. The river brought down a quantity of floating ice, and jx;opIe began to pass it, although not without danger. The sun set entirely at ten minutes past ten. VVe ascended the highest part of the isle of Swentzlar: we observed with a quad.anl the angle between the sun at the horizon and the signal of Kukama, at the same time counting seconds by a pendulum which we had placed near the spot, in one of those houses used for keeping fodder and cattle in, and which then was empty. The night was very fine : the next morning we returned to take the angle between the rising sun on the horizon and the same signal. The direction of our succession of triangles, with respect tr> the meridian, as found by these observations, differed by some minutes from the direction found at Pello. We were at first surprised ; but quickly reflected that, Kittis and Torneo not being under the same meridian, we ought to find some difterence, on account of the two meridians approaching sensibly towards the poles in the country where we were. M. Clairaut very quickly made the calculation of what this approxi- mation of the two meridians amounted to ; and it was found, by taking this into com- putation, the directions of the triangles taken at Kutis and Torneo agreed within half a minute of a degree. There was now scarcely any ice on the river ; yet the sea was quite white with the floats of ice covered wiUi snow. There was very little snow remaining on the ground, even on the northern side of bushes : and the inhabitants began to sow their barley all over the island. Sunday the twenty-sixth there was no longer any night; and a fortnight had elapsed since our being enabled to read in our apartments the most small characters at midnight. I had my fire only once made up in the day. I was much amused for a long time on Sunday afternoon, admiring the address ofacitizen of Torneo, who could draw, without having ever been taught, and delineated figures with singular skill ; had he been under the hand of a master, he would have excelled in this line ; he drew pictures, made coats, and was the only tailor at Torneo. They kept Easter the same day as we did, and Rogation Sunday as well. Monday the twenty-seventh, and Tuesday the twenty-eighth, people went much to church : that day they preached on the gospel which we have for the Rogation mass. They call these days Gonge dagen, the days of procession ; they however have no procession, and are satisfied with preaching, and singing the hymns of the church. I went to M. de Maupertuis, to help him to place two pendulums near to each other ; he made use of tliem for examining if two pendulums, moving very near each other with unequal vibrations, had any sensible influence one on the other : M. de Maupertuis did not find that they had. The horses had all proceeded to their summer quarters ; my landlord sent for his, which he wanted, to go to Kimi. The horse on his return rested at his master's ; and • 11 VOL. I. T T 1 !|' ;: ' 'I !i i| 322 ouTuren's joirnvAL op Wednesday morning the twenty-ninth departed, of himself, to join his companions, which he could not effect without swimming across the river. M. Viguclius, assistant minister and diiector of the schools of Torneo, had composed a Latin |iocm in honour of the king of France, and the academicians which his mnjcstv had sent into the North ; he invited us to dine with liim on Wednesday, and gave eacK of us a copy. Thursday the thirtieth, Ascension Day, was kept very solemnly; we kept it also in our little chapel. Wc hiid a large company to dine with us • the lieutenant-colonel, with the gravm' which answers to countess, was of the party. Sunday the second of June very fine weather, and Monday the third the same. I went with M. Sommercux to the highest part of the island, to see the sun set : the upper edge passed behind mount Nieva, near to Corpikyla, and shortly afterwards it again appeared on the other side, that is to say, on the right of the mountain ; it did not entirely cUsappear before two or three minutes after eleven. M. de Maupertuis went in the afternoon to see the vessel which was to carry our in- struments and luggage to Stockholm. We began to make ready for our departure ; the following days were dedicated to this purpose, and were fully occupied. On Wednes- day night the fifth, many cases filled with instruments were carried on board the vessel, nearly two leagues distant from Torneo : the sea and the river are so shallow, as not to allow vessels to approach nearer to the town. We took our leave : M. de Maupertub rewarded, in a noble manner, all those who had rendered us service, and we thought no longer of any thing but our departure. DEPARTURE FROAI TORNEO TO RETURN TO FRANCE. All the instruments, bag^ge, and one of our coaches, were put on board a ship be- longing to Torneo, which was speedily about to sail for Stockholm. Sunday the ninth, Whit-Sunday, I said mass early ; and M- de Maupertuis, after hearing it, had every thing ready to go by sea to Stockholm. Messrs. Le Monnier, Sommereiix, and Her- belot, were to accompany him ; Messrs. Clalraut, Camus, Celsius, and myself, intending to go by land, in the coach which for that purpose was left behind at Torneo. The wind became fair in the afternoon ; and as ^^. Le Monnier, who was gone to Kiemi with M. Celsius, was not returned, M. Clairaut took his place, and went after dinner with Messrs. de Maupertuis, Sommereux, and Hcrbelot, to embark on board the vessel in the harbour of Puralakti, two or three leagues from the town : Messrs. Camus, Helant, our interpreter, and myself, acccmpanied them on board : we saw them set sail at seven in the evening, and returned in one of our boats. We M^nt to Hapa Niemi, to take leave of the lieutenant-colonel, and at ten o'clock got back to town, where we met with M. Le Monnier returned ; M. Celsius came back during the uight, that is to s^, towards midnight, for there was continual da|^. Monday morning the tenth, M. Camus and myself looked to our coach being put m order, and got every thing ready for setting off. It was two in the afternoon when we left the town; we passed in a boat mm our coach at Hapurunda, where we were to find horses ; we had much trouble in obtaining any, they had but lately returned to their summer quarters ; a number of them, how- ever, was brought, but very meagre, not having yet got over the fatigues of their winter service. We at length set off at five o'clock ; there was yet some sntiw along the coasts of the gulf: we found some at Sangis, where we arrived on Tuesday the eleventh, athalfpastoneinthe morning. We could not obtain horses here until the afternoon, and then very bad ones ; of the four which were brought us, only two could draw : M. Le Monnier said :nyself were obliged to mount the other two, which were badlf 'J»^VV>^ jriC/.,.,, ;T,-iJJ^. .iU.'-'ficH?;' ,. J ' A VOYAGE TO THE NOITH. 323 saddled, and had much difficulty in keeping on their Icj^s. We arrived at Calix towards six in »hc evening: thence, on Wednesday the twelfth, at ten in the mornit\g, at llunea. In Sweden they observe the fourth day of VVhitsn:itide with more strictness than the preceding ones, and wc could not get away until 'I'hursday the thirteenth, at five in the afternoon. We passed at midnight by Old Lullca ; there tliey gave us such bad horaes, that in order to reach Bac, which is only half a mile from Bourg, wc were obligvd to send back twice for fresh ones ; it is true, the roads were through sands, and very bad. After- wards we obtained better horses : we were seven minutes and thirty- five seconds in pass- ing over the wooden bridge, which the maps describe to have one hundred and two arches, and notwithstanding went at a good rate. On our arrival at Old Pithea, as M. Celsius was conducting us to the proubst, or rector, we were much surprised at meeting with one of the servants which M. de Mau- pertuis had taken on board with him. He told us that the vessel was run upon the coast at two miles from the town of Pithea, from which we were at the distance of a good French league ; that these gentlemen had gone to the town, and begged us to join tnem there. We went immediately, and arrived to dine with them ; and iJter hearing the account which M. de Maupertuis gave of his shipwreck, we made arrangements for continuing our journey in company. Scarcely had the vessel on which these gentlemen were embarked left Puralakti, at seven o'clock in the evening, and proceeded three or four hours on its course, before the wind changed, and became furious : all Monday they were beaten about by the tempest. On Tuesday morning M. Sommereux, from his bed, perceived the pilot apparently very uneasy and agitated, and learnt that the vessel made a great deal of water. At this news every one rose and stirred about : there was but one pump, at which a part worked, wliile the others emptied the water with buckets through the skuttles. As soon as there was any respite taken, instantly the water gained upon them. The wind was continually changing. They often went up aloft, but could descry no land ; they could only distinguish at a distance long white flats, which were supposed to be floating ice. At length, the same day in the evening, the wind was more favourable : the pilot ordered all sails to be hoisted before the wind, while they concinued emptying the water ; and at length they discovered the shores of Westro-Bothnia. The pilot, who was experienced, and had much frequented the coast, found a proper place on which to run the vessel ashore ; and he did this with so much caution and management, that the ship was no ways damaged by it. They had thrown overboard a part of the boards with which tliey were loaded ; as soon as she grounded, they quickly landed the rest, with the luggage, and all our instruments. It was on the skirts of a wood ; the servants erected tents, and remained there, while M. de Maupertuis, and his companions in the shipwreck, went to the town of Pithea. M. de Maupertub departed on Friday the fourteenth, in the coach which brought us, with Messrs. Clairaut, Celsius, and Camus, who was directed to examine with attention the copper mines of Fahlun ; while M. Sommereux remained with M. Le Monnier and myself at Pithea, until the vessel was put into condition to resume its course to Stockholm. Saturday the fifteenth, the wind b^ing southerly, and favourable for returning from the vessel to town, Messrs. Le Monnier, Sommereux and myself, went with two boats to bring back the coach which had been embarked at Tonieo, and which was with t^e servants, the luggage, and the instruments. The vessel remained there no more ; it had been brought closer to the town, to be nearer to the workmen who were to refit it ; we found it laying on one ude, and entirely empty. We came back to town, the wind , w ■ ■ >.,r.» >. >-■>». 324 gUTHIRR'S JOURNAL OP 5, ' Hi bcine Ckvourablc, remarkably quick ; on the rood wu hud thunder and ruin, but in the evening und the ni^ht there was fair weather : there was yet some clouds ; and I re« marked at midnight that the sun iUuminuted them as far us to the horizon on the side of the south, the same us with us it does on the side of the west some minutes before rising ; it robC at nearly half past twelve in the morning Sunday the sixteenth, as our lodging was in front of the bridge, we had the pleasure of seeing all the people come from church : there was u very large congregation, great part of them very well drest, and all returning with much decorum. Durnig our resi- dence at Pithcu 1 took the plan of it : 1 went therefore, while all Uie inliabitunts were in bed, to step the principal streets about midnight. The situation of tlie town is singular enough ; it occupies entirely u small island, which has no communication with the town but by a wooden bridge, at the end of which is agate which shuts. The church is out of the town, and people go to it over the bridge. The streets of the town are all straight ; in the middle is a little square, regular enough, one side of which is made up by the town-house and school. This town is half a mile, that is to say, a league, from the old town, whence it is distinguishable. The road leading from one to the otner was our cus- tomary walk : having lost our way one day in the wood, we found a woodcock's nest, where as yet there was only eggs. Tuesday the eighteenth the vessel was in proper condition, and we now only waited for a fair wind, to put our baggage and instruments on board. It became fair on Wed- nesday the nineteenth ; we immediately repaired to the spot where the baggage was, und off which part the vessel had proceeded to lay : we Ixgan to load, and continued the next day, the twentieth, in oitler to depart immediately. We came back to the town, whence we designed setting off in our coach on Friday morning early, the twenty-first ; but it was one of those grand prayer-days, on which, under great penalties, they are obliged to attend both at service and sermon, that we could not obtain horses until they bad come from church. At length, at four o'clock in the afternoon, Messrs. Monnier, Sommereux, and my. self, set off; M. Herbelot, shortly after the vessel grounded, embarked in another, which went from PiUiea to Stockholm. When we had ])aased Aby, we came to a river called Byka ; our coach was put into two bouts joined to each other, to pass it : we then took fresh horses ; we went on to Fruskayer, and arrived on Saturday the twent^'-second, at ten o'clock, at Sielefflat, which is a large town, where we dined. Leaving it, we passed a very broad river, on a wooden bridge, quite new, and very well built. We were sur- prised to see so considerable a work entirely fiinshed, having passed by there in boats a year before, without seeing any preparations for the construction of it. We arrived at eight o'clock at Selit, where there is a church ; and as we could not obtain horses until the afternoon of Sunday the twenty-third, we went on with the same as far as Gremmersmark, where we arrived at eleven o'clock : we passed the night there, lodging very badly, and very cold ; it froze, and they were under much concern on account of the barley. We made so much interest as to get hoi'seB by ten o'clock in the morning : we passed by the side of the church of Nasastra ; afterwards through the village of Saswor ; then across a river, over which was a bridge : we passed after* wards a heath, where there were some Swedes encamped ; the sentinels cried out in German, who goes there ? they came to reconnoitre, and suffered us to go on. About a mile beyond the camp» at eleven o'clock at night, we arrived at Uhma : we supped and slept in the inn, which is a very good one ; and Monday morning the twenty-fourth M. Sommereux and myself went to see M. Guilingrip, the governor of dtie pi'ovince, wh9i9 we i^td iHet with ^YG^I times j»t Tornco : 1 loiind tHcve R tetter A VOYAGE TO TIIR NORTH. 335 which M. dc Maupertuis had left fur mc, in which he mentioned that M. Camus w;iitcd for us ut the c()p|)er miiicst of I'uhlun. The house of the |j;ovc:rnor in about u(]uurter of a mile out of the town : we dined with him, and went to rejoin M. Le Moiini' r, at R beautiful country : from there to Lingscre and Boriklo, which is four mUes to the south of Swersio Kyrka, which is the pari^i. The people returned very late from church on Sunday the tmrtieth, and we were obliged to wait till four o'clock at Boriklo, the x)ad being shut with a gate and chuin till aft:er service. The road passes in two places on causeways, very icng, elevated above the level, among fields, lakes and rivers : along diese causeways, which are said to be natural, we met ! f 1 < •^.-^.mmt^i^t* I »k AH '■»■•■ I *.fc 326 otTTiirr.n'i joitrmal of with siomc houses, with a numlxT of forjrcs for melting the copper ore. Frotn thrnc forges to Fahliiii nothing wusi acm but woods, mountains unci :»toncs ; we arrived then: on Sunduy, at nine o'clock. The town of F^ihhni, otherwise called CopperlxTg, is very large : it is not surrounded with barriers, as are all the other towns ol the country ; the greets of it are (Krfeilly straight. There are two souaas, one of which is handsome, large, and regular. North of this is a large house, built of stone ; it comprises the hill where justice is rendered, a cellar, a granary, and a public dispensary. Eubt of the s. t:,' - A yOYAOE TO TMR NORTH. 327 After pa.isinpf these naked men, wc ugnin descended, nnd found oursclvc» at lcngtl> In cavities from thirty to forty feet Imwd, sonu" of which were tcriniimted by very lurj;!' wclla. Wc paHiicd by narrow passai^H to gt t from one of these cavities to the other. The greater part of these roadN are furnished Ulow with a wtxxicn channel, to direct the wliecls of the tumbrils, in which the horses draw un the ore, to conduct it op- posite to the wells which are cut to the top. It is throni^h these openings that the ore IS raised in very large buckets. These buckets arc snsjKiul.d tocaulcs, rolled over the axis of large wheels, some of which are turned by horses, and others by water. 'I'luy arc so constructed, as while one bucket descends, another is riiis<.'d. When it is retjuired to let down a horse, a band which gocK under the whole of his body is fastened to one of these cables. On each side of the canal I am speaking of there is sufficient room for a person to pass ; and to prevent passengers from iK-ing hurt by the tumbrils, they are confined by a middle wheel, placed under them, to the middle of the channel. In some places there arc other wooden channels fastened along the rock, the use of which is to concUict the water ncc(.*ssary in the working the mine. In these subterraneous places wc saw two stables for horses, and a smithy, wherein tools, and shoes for horses, were made. In all these caverns, but above all in the larger ones, wc saw a great number of work, men, some clothed, others naked ; they make a fire on the stone they are desirous of breaking, and, when sufficiently heated, remove it, aixl directly throw water upon the hot stone, whicn splits ; on every side there arc a number of these fires. Here wc saw levers of every description for moving the ore, and placing it within reach of the tum- brils. There were various punnps for raising water from parts where it was injurious, and directing it to others where it was of use. Sometimes we saw rivulets running, which apparently lost themselves in the crevices of the rock. There* is in these mines a great numlxr of roads, which we did not see, on account of the gates being shut. In many of the caverns the rock is supported by walls ; in others by planking joined together, some with iron clamps, others with wooden stays. In spite of these precautions the tops of the mines are not firm, for workmen are fre*- Jiucntly either wounded, or crushed to death, by the fall of large fragments. These un- ortunatc beings know the danger to which they are exposed, and in consequence a sombre sadnesa reigns among them it seems as though mirth were prohibited indeed, for they are not allowed cither to whistle or sing in the mine. Women arc also expressly forbid going down them. Af\er having gone throuf^h different caverns during two hours, we found ourselves at the bottom of the largest well, and Uiought it rained abundantly, notwithstanding the se- renity of the sky, the vapours ascending from all parts resolving mto real rain, which conti- nued to wet us, till we had ascended two thirds of the height of the well. It is three hun- dred and fifty Swedish ells deep, which make six hundred and forty French feet. We now wanted no more* than two guides to brin^ us to the light of day ; one of them placed himself with M. Lc Monnicr and myself, in a large bupket, which is used to draw up the ore. We had neither of us more than one leg in the bucket, and held by the chain with which it is fastened to the cable. While ascending, every now and then our guide touched the sides of the well, in order to direct the bucket, and avoid the points of the rock which projected, as well as the descending bucket, the shock of which would have been dangerous. The coachman of this singular kind of carriage required a considerable portion of skill ; for the swinging of the bucket, the turnings wmch the cord occaidoned by its twisting, and the snuJl uze of the well, rendered ue 9^ i ■wrl»« I p>»f»^fc»i '■^.^ > ^i ■^■■•i* 1*1 I .": 1 328 Olr-nilRII'll JOI/RNAL Or paiiH;)gc difficult. Notwithntanding the horv^s which drew us went at u very good rate, wc were nint* minutes in rising from the (xjttom to the top of the well. There are two water. w«)rkH, which draw up the ore i«» chains instead of cables. They are composed of large overshot wheel"*, with two rows of buckets, one of whu li i« opposite to the other. These ivh( els are placed in large wooden buildings, closely shut up. At the top of the building is a large reservoir, into which pumps continually throw up water, carried to it by large wooden nines ; at each opiKwite side of the reservoir there is un opening with u flood-gate, which corres|X)nds with the buckets; so that by oi)ening oiu of the Rood-gates, the water fulls into the buckets that answer to it, and the wheel turns one wuy ; instead of which it turns the other way, upon the shutting that and opening the op|)osit( tlo(xl-(rate. We saw anoUi'T water- work, which had two wheels, each twenty-seven French feet in diameter. It was not at work when we went there ; it is used for raising the ore, and to work a prodigious (luantity of machinery for pumping, and other purposes. There arc besides several otner machines worked by water and horses, for drawing such water from the mine us is superfluous ; the machinery foi workhig these pumps extends to a very givat distance, and divides and sub-divides in a numlx.'r or brunches, for pumping at the same time in a great many different places. Some of this machinery moves vertically , others horizontally ; and if the mountain be frightful from its rug- ged rocks, the moving forest, formed by the different machinery, is an object well worthy u curious eye. All the bodies of the pumps are of \vood : the wheels, the levers, and all other parts ot the machinery, are perfectly well constructed. All the reservoirs us well arc of wood, very closely joined and i)itchcd, so as no water can escape. As the ore is drawn it is separatee! into different heaps, which are the property of in- dividuals. Every proprietor carries away his share in little tumbrils, to take it to the foundery, where they prepare it fur fusion. The mines are* south-west of die town, about one hundred and fifcy toises distant from the nearest houses. Between the houses and the town, and the town itself even, and along the banks of the river, there is nothing to be seen but forges, the bellows of which are moved by water. Near these forges are a number of furnaces, where the ore is ex. tended on two layers of wood, which is set fire to, and is \e[t to bum for several days ; this is the first part of the process for the preparation of the ore, and is called Kallerostat. The second is in a nearly similar kind of furnace ; it is lons^er only and narrower. They then make the metal run in a very violent fire blasted by immense bellows, worked by water. There then remains to refine it only. Of this I shall speak presently, when I come to Afbta. On passing near the Kallerostats to leeward, the smoke is so thick and sulphurous, as not to be respirable. Sometimes it entirely covers the town, and although incommo- dious tc the inhabitiints, it procures them the advantage of being never troubled with gnats ; an insupportable vexation throughout Uie rest of the country. The officers of the mine made us each a present of u Berseman's hatchet, on the part of the company ; they are very small ; the inhabitants of Dalecarlia always carry one, which is to them in lieu of a stick. The governor invited us to dinner, and shewed us the greatest civility. Tuesday the second of July we went to see a man, who they said was petrified ; he bad been crushed under a mass of rock. After forty or fifty years, in digging, his body was found ; it was so little changed, that a woman recollected him ; for sixteen years lie had been kept as a curiosity in an iron choir. We saw nothing but a Body perfectly black, much disfigured, and which exhaled a cadaverous smell. A \u\ s(.r. ro lilt'. Nourii 32\> SntiircUy the ^ixth, alter dinner, we took leiivc ut' the governor, :uk1 dcpnrtcd in our coach ; we Kto|)|K-d at the CDUiitr) -house ot M. 'IVohili, tiie li«ir^oinustcr : it i.h very ele- Smt; the garden in exteiiMve, the |)ros|>eet diverhilicd by wuuiit, nuadowk, und lar^e eet» of water, in which Home excehi ni fish were cuuKht lor our hup.ier. W't did not depart till eleven o'clock in the evening ; we rode all night through u "tue country, and more than two thirds of the way on very large cause wayit. W c puitkcd the ga*i)t river Ualu three tiincH on fli)ating bridges. Thciic Hoating bridges are large planks of w(X)d joined together, p&rallcl to tlic cur- rent of the river, and laid ovciodK-r planks, similar but longer, which art ut right angles ivtth the tintt ; uli these planks are well join* d ; when loaded with a heavy carnage, they •tnk a little, and tin* water sometimes comes to the highest edge. These flouting uridgcs •re of two descriptions ; the one extends from one side of the river to the odier, as in the case with bomc at Stockholm ; the other occunies but u small part of the river, and is crossed along a cable extended from one side of ttic river to the other, in the sume man- ner us our ferry bouts. Sunday noon, the fccventh, we arrived at Afsta, seven miles bom Falilun. Afsta, to which nume For is added, signifying forge and cataract, b a very small place, situated on the side oi die great river Dalu, Ixriowumost friglitful cataract, which turns a large number of wheels used for refining copixi. We first went to see the inspec- tor of the works, who received us very politely ; he told us he would cause the whole process of refining to be gone through as soon as we p'cased ;iAer midnighs IV r dtey observed the Sunday with great strictness. At midnight we went to see them at work. The cop[)er is forwarded from Kahluii to Afsta b clocks, in a very impure state, only having undergone the first fusion. When it arrives at Afsta, an exact account is taken of w hat belongs to each individual, in order to know what he may have to receive, after deducting the king's dues, and the charges of refining. They began by putting into a kind of large crucible, cut in the ground, a bed of char> coal, and above that a heap of large inj^tsor blocks of copper, till there was about eight ^ or nine thousand weight, with a cjuantity of charcoal above it. This was set fire to, and blasted by two large bellows, which the water kept continually playing, until the ingots were entrely melted ; after this the bellows continued to play for a long time, fresh charcoal being added as often aK requisite ; now and then the crucible was opened, the charcoal which floated on its surface was taken away, and the melted ore skimmed of whatever dross swimmed upon it. At length, a little before ten o'clock, the whole of the charcoal was removed, and the bellmvs ceased from working. On the melted cop- Etr a little water was thrown, which, not being able to evaponite ei :he instant, rolled ack wards and forwards on the surface in little drops : this water halving chilled the top, a crust was formed, which was taken oflP with hooked poles, and other iron instntments ; water was thrown on a second time, and a second crust taken off; and thus until the crucible was empty ; it gave, if I mistake not, forty crusts, or round sheets of copper, the last of which are always the purest and the best. : This work was completed by ten o'clock ; the inspector came to seek us, and car- ried us to see die last fusion, which was not long. A great number of these round sheetu were put into a crucible nearly resembling the former ; they were very soon melted ; they then dipped out of it with large iron spoons, suspended as a lever by chains, the melt- ed matter, which was poured into moulds as large, and nearly of the shape of the top of a hat This matter become solid, but yet red, was placed on an anvil, and flattened by the stfokes of a heavy hammer, which the water worked. These sheets of copper were VOL. I. ir u 3M OUTHIBR'S JOURNAL OF aflen'rards cut into narrow plates, and passed between rollers, to make them even ^nd of equal ihickness. Three men weighing upon a large pair of sheers, the lever of which was horizontallv placed, cut the plottes, that is to say, the large copper coin. Four others, each holding a comer of the pieces with its impression, received the stroke of a large hammer moved by the water, which stamped the coin. Others cleaned it in rolling casks. The inspector went with us every where, and invited us to dine with him. Tuesday the ninth, at five ni the morning, we went in out coach to Messinsbrok, a quarter oi'a mile dicta'^*^ from Afsta, to see them make brass. They have three aubter* ranetin furnaces, each furnished with a lid ; they let down with lai^ hooks to the boUcm of these fum.:ccs nine very deep crucibles, which have of>en filled with red ccp^)er, calaminaris, with some raspings of yellow coppei. Soa-e time after they take up these same crucibles, in which the matter is founded : they pour it into a large mould, very flat, to make sheets of brass ; some are cut into long ilips, which are put to heat again m a large oven, wherein the fire is on one-side ; they are afterwards cut for bra^ wire, at first square, and large, but they are rendered round and slender as they please, by being drawn through guages by means of water that works nippers, which lay hold of the wi.e on its being forced through the gudge, and draw it forward with violence. On ore machine there are twelve of theses guages, with their nippers, which the tree of one single wheel works with surprising celerity. They melt and work also a number of different articles in yellow copper. The inspector made us take tea there, and to dine we resumed to Afsta, which we led at noon for Salsberg, four miles and an 1 ilf distant from Afsta. The whole i\Md through en even country, but very barren, am almost wholly wood : through the wholr distance v/e passed but three villages. We had bad horses, and did not arrive till eif^ht o'clock r«t night. S^l^.berg is a large and handsome town; the streets are straight, and paved, as well as the square, which is handsome and r^ular. On the twenty-first of August, in ^ 736, this town was almost wholly destroyed by fire, and presented a very sad appear* ance, few of the house? being yet re-built. The town is watered by a very ^mall river. We went on Wednesday morning the tenth to see the silver nunes ; as they were not of any magnitude, we did not go down them ; ihe bui^master sheweH us all the oits ; there is but one machine, both for pumping the water, and drawing up the ore. Thb ma- chine is well made, but not so large ss those at Fahlun. At three o'clock in the afternoon we left Salsberg ; for seven miles we travelled through a very fine ;uid well cultivated level country : we saw quantides of rye, bar- ley, peas, and even very fine crops of wheat ; plenty of meadows, several parishes and villages, and but litde wood. The rest of the road was more diversified ; plenty of wood, mixed however with cultivated fields in the vallies, and often lakes ; we passed a strait between two lakes on a flpating bridge, which was drawn over by a rope. We were then two miles and a half from Stockholm ; we travelled all night, and arrived on Thursday, at eleven o'clock in the morning ; we put up at the same inn which we lodged at the year before ; we met then Messrs. dc Maupertuis, Clairaut, Celsius, and Herhelot, with all the servants, and the luggage, which had arrived mth the vessel, after a good voyage. Ot. Sunday the fourteenth, after saying mass, Messrs. de Maupen ii«: Camus, and myself, went to dine with the ambassador. On Monday the fifteenth his excellency took us to Carlsbei^ at ten in the morning, and presanted us to their mujesdes. it the day of St. Ulric, whose name her majesty bore ; on this occasion an entertain- wai merit was given in the gardens of Carlsberg ; the king wished to see the drawings (^some A VOYAGE TO TUB NORTH. 33 ^ plants and animals, of some Laplanders, and their dwellings, which M. Herbelot had designed, and conversed with much familiurity and benignity with all of us ; wc took leave of their majesties, and returned to Stockholm. Tuesday the sixteenth M. Clairuut, M. Camus, and myself, went to see the count de Tessin ; afterwards I went to Mr. Horleman, and to see Mr. Bentzilius, at the king's library. After dinner we employed ourselves in cleaning the quadrants and other instru- ments, which had got wet in the ship. \\ ednesday the seventeenth we put them in their cases, and ^J . de Maupertuis got every thing ready for our departure. For M. Somme. reux and hin>self he had engaged a p assage in a vessel going to Amsterdam ; M. Her. belot and some servants remained at Stockholm, rill some vessel should sail for Rouen, on board which they might ship the luggage and instruments. One of the coaches was presented to M. Celsius, and the other was designed to carry Messrs. Clairaut, Camus, Le Monnicr, and myself, to Amsterdam, whither M. de Maup«:rtuis went by sea. Thursday the eighteenth, at five in the morning, M. de Maupertuis departed with M. Sommereux ; Messrs. Clairaut, Camus, Le Monnier and myself, after taking leave of the ambassador, set off in our coach, at six o'clock. We passed over two very fine floating bridges, and by midnight arrived at Soder Talge, and on Friday the nineteenth, at eleven in the morning, at Nicoping. We did not leave it till six in the evening, and arrived on Saturday the twentieth, at four o'clock in the morning, at Nordkoping : it is a large town, in which there are many stone houses : below a very rapid cataract, which works the wheels of an iron forge, we saw a great number of vessels. By noon we were atLinkoping, twenty 4wo miles from Stockholm. The city of Linkoping is handsome ; it is the see of a bishop ; there is a cathedml, with a large burial place, which many good houses look out upon ; we lodged in one which was very neat, and in which we felt ourselves at ease ; two or three miles before we arrive*^ at the city, there began a handsome causeway, planted on both sides with willo ,-s. We left Linkoping at seven o'clock, we travelled frequently among rocks, and came near to the side of the great lake Water. For two miles we co 't'.nued our route along its side, at first over rocks which surround it, and afterwards under the rocks, along the margin of the lake. We passed through a village, very small, and very poor, opposite to which, on the top of the mountain, the remains of a castle are distin> guished, called Brahuss, or good house, which had been burnt down ; to judge from its remains, it must have been very handsome. On Sunday the twenty.first, a quarter of a mile further, below the same range of rocks, from cn^ hundred to one hundred and fifty toises from the lake, is the little town of Gnenna, thirty miies from Sv xkholnu The houses are very small, and all of wood ; they form two parallel street i^, on the same line as the length of the lake. The lirgest of them b very broad, and nearest to the lake ; in the middle of the street there is a row of lofty trees, which divides it from beginning to end, and affords a pretty prospect ; it is neariy three hundred toises long, running north north.east ; a third part down tHi« street towards the north-east b a pretty regular square, utuated between the two streets, into which five or ax little cross streets fall. The church, the only stone building, is about two thirds up the great street, going towards the south-west. Between the town, which is quite at the bottom of the rocks, and the lake, is a well cultivated country, about one hundred and fifty toises broad, stretching along the lake. There are several ^rdens, in which cherries are very plentiful, M^ich appeared to us to be of a good kind. We amved there at nine o'clock in ue morning, and departed at four in the afternoon. . j .^ , < ,?. » , , -•■>,.:--v --..•, . ,- . ■ ■^. VV2 ■ ... ■.".-..'.•;>'•,_>. i. I 332 OUTHIER'8 JOURNAL OP Af^cr travelling about a quarter of a mile at the foot of the rock, upon leaving Grenna, we ascended it, und passed to the east of a small lake. Some time aticr we descended to the side of the great lake, along which we continued to Jonekoping. West of Grenna in the lake we perceived a large island, with houses upon it. At nine o'clock in the evening we arrived at Jonekoping ; the town appeared to us large and handsome ; a large and very broad street passes through it ; the houses of it are neat, altl-iough aiinost all of wood, it is situated at the southern extremity of the great lake Water, the water of which as well forms a large bason within the town. We saw no boat either on the bason, or on the lake, which much surprised us : 1 had before remarked that there was none on the lake near Grenna, nor in uiy of its extent, while we were coasting it ovtr the rocks. I was not able to learn the reason of it at Jonekoping ; we waited only an instant there, because there were some German noblemen behind us, who took sixteen horses, and we were fearful of their getting before us. We left it on Monday the twenty-second, at ten o'clock at night We found an even country on proceeding, the road almost always sandy, and through woods ; to this succeeded fields, meadows, lakes, and heaths ; we passed two rivers, and on Tuesday the twenty-third, at four o'clock in the morning, we amved at Hionby, where we saw more empty sh^-ps than houses ; it is a place famous for markets and fairs. At eight o'clock we arrived at Hambneda or Hamna, where we rested ourselves ; the hostess took us for people out of their senses, to ask to go to bed at nine o'clock in the morning. We did not set out till five in the evening ; we passed a river, and afterwards throu^ coppices, where we saw beech for the first time. By seven o'clock we reached Trahry ; we went slowly throu^ the woods the space of two miles, as far as Muskarid, where we arrived at nudnight ; afterwards, having got to Fayerhah, one mile and a half further, by two o'clock on Wednesday morning the twenty-fourth ; we left it at four o'clock, passed by Orkliona, and Lenby, and reached Helsinbore at six o'clock in the evening. We had travelled for a lone time through a coimtr)r, the kmguage of which was not familiar to us. We were delisted with finding at Helsinbor^ several persons who spdce French. The town of Helsinbor^^ is not handsome ; there is a small terrace on the bank of the strait, where many cannon are placed. The wheels were taken dF our coach, and it was put ittio a large boat, in which we embarked at seven o'clock. The wind was southerly, v.'e kept as near to it as posuble, and, using our oars, we passed the Sound in an hour; but as the wind and the current had thrown us out of our course, and carried us somewhat to the north of the eastte of Elsineur, we were obliged to puU against wind and tide, to get to the town at the soath south-east ; we did not land at Elsineur until nkie o*ck)ck : this town is pretty, the bosses have a neat appearance, but they have very few lodgings, ar*i do not behave with much politeness to strangers. t^^ft<- 1 « -it-vjAC.n-- We left Eliuneur on Thursds^ the twenty-fifth, at one in the eftemoom ; we met ividi roads very ill kept, and sometimes very bad, and did not arrive at Copenhagen nntik nine o'clock in the evening. We lodged at an inn, which was oj^osite the palace of the king of Denmark. Friday the twenty-Mxth, M. de la None, envoy of France, invited us to dinner. Afler dinner I went with Messrs. Clairaut andCamus to see a n^ palaee, catted Frederiksberg, which is handsome, and has fine gardens. Saturday the twenty eighth I heard mass said by the Jesuits^ who officiate at the em- peror's chapel. This chapel is elegant ; » number of catholics were collected there, to hear divine serke. M. de la Noue did us the honour of visicing us ; and we passed A VOYAGE TO THB NORTH. 335 the remainder of the day in looking about the town, canals, ports, and vessels of the kine. ' On Sunday the twenty-ninth, M. de la None again invited us to dine ; he invited ns well M. Herrebon, astronomer of the king of Denmark. After dinner we went to M. Hcr- rebon, who made each of us a present of some books of his composing : he gave us a coUation in his garden ; he had requested the company of a clergyman, whose dress ap- peared to me extraordinary ; he had on a long coat, with a ruff of very fine linen round his neck, and wore a cap, terminated at top by a large round piece of felt, about eighteen inches in diameter, placed horizontally ; this is the usual dress of professors of divinity at Copenhagen. We afterwards went to see the astronomical tower, where several of the instruments of Tycho Brahe are preserved, and part of the original registers of his obser- vations. We saw the library of the university, over the vault of the church, contiguous to the astronomical tower. M. Le Cierc, son of the famous Le Clcrc, designer and engraver at Paris, invited us to supper. Monday the twenty-ninth we all went to the king's library, to the stables, and the ridingc quay, the gates of the town of Niuboig being shut We left that place at seven in the mornmg oi » ednesday the thirty.first ; we passed through Niuborg, vrh/ere there is a garrison, and after trarelfing four miles arrived at Qoon at Odenzee, a handsome and lai^ town ; we went fax miles farther to Middelfast, » small toim, which we reach'' i at eleven o'clock at night ; we immediately embarked, to cross the little Belt, in a large flat boat. We were cmliged to row against the wind, which was south-west ; at every stroke of the oar (which was very k>ng) we perceived a kumnous train of sparics on the 8urfeK:e of the agitated waters. The water of the Belts bein^ the same as that of the Baltic Sea, which is scarcdy at all salt, it is presumable that It is not the agitation of the saline particles alone which causes these spark«: after having gsuned on the wind by dint of rowing, we hoisted ssdl, and passed over in an hour and a fastfy landing stt one in the morning. iu OCTIIIER'S JOURNAL OP We set off on Thursday the first of August, at three o'clock, and aAer travelling three miles arrived at Kolditig, a small town, in which is a garrison : we travelled four mil^s farther, arriving by noon at Hatterslebjn, a pretty town, but without gates. The postilions drove us very slowly : we journie all night, and did not arrive at Flensborg till Friday the second, at six in the morning, where we had to do witii vcij' uncivil peo< pie, disobliging, and selfish in the extreme. We left Flensborg at eight in the morning, passing over nothing but heath to Rensborg, where we arrived at ten o'clocL at night. As the gates of the town were closed, we took up our abode with a friendly ffxmer, who, from his courteous behaviour, might well have been taken for a stranger. From this place the country houses, and even some in the town, are singularly plan, ned : they consist o." a large court, to which you enter bv a great gate ; at the bottom of this immense court are some apartments ; all round, m sheds, the cattle and poultry are kept, who in consequence are habituated tc live very familiarly with the family : thie kitchen is in the comer of the court, which is large enough to serve for a coach house ; carriages are kept in it. We continued our journey, passing through the town of Rensborg ; it b well forti- fied ; it is divided in two by a canal, on which were many handsome boats, carrying masts ; the southern part is very handsome. At four o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at Itzehoa ; it is a fine town, of great trade, but not inclosed. We "et off thence at six o'clock in the evening ; we passed over a fine fertile country, variegated by meadows, and watered by canals. A mile beyond Itzehoa we saw on die side of the road a fortified castle, surrounded by meadows. We stopped a little at midnight in the town of £lme« shem, and arrived on Sunday the fourth, at eight o'ckxk in the morning, at Hambourg. We went to pay our respects there to M. Poussin, envoy of the king ; he kept us to dine with M. de la Chetardie, who was returning from his embassy to Prussia. On Mon> day the fifth, and Tuesday the sixth, we dined there again : we cannot speak too highly of the eagerness he manifested to have us continually with him. Tuesday he gave a dinner to M. de Chavigny, who was going as ambassador to Copenhagen. Wet'nesday the seventh we went to see M. Rochefort, commissary of the marine, and to (ake leave of M. Poussin. We dined at our inn : towards the close of dinner some Prussian soldiers, extremely tall, gave us a concert with a bass viol, a bassoon, vio> lins, a guitar, and French horns. At four o'clock in the afternoon we set off in our coach ; and afler travelling two miles along the northern bank of the Elbe, we crossed it at Blankinese in a rery incom- modious boat, and conducted by very unskilful boatmen. We continued our route in this boat along a little river, which discharges itself into the Elbe, &vA which allows of decked vessels to go up of some burthen ; we landed at eight o'clock in the evening on tlie bank of this little river. W« went on a mile farther to Boxtehode, situated on the same river ; we arrived there at midnight ; we changed horses there, and left it (mi Thursday the eighth, at two o'clock in the morning. There are four or five villages on the road, both sides of which present barren uncultivated plains, as far as near to Bremen. We dined at on . of these villages, and fared very v/ell ; they presented s first with tea and coffee, which is the custom of the country. At ten o'clock in the evening we arrived near the gates of Bremen, which were already closed. Bremen is a very fine and large town ; we were told it contained a church for the catholics. ■ ^ After travelling a mile we passed by Delmerhorst, continually in a bad country, nothing but heath and sandy roads. Two miles farther we reached Villenhusen ; we A VOYAGE TO THR NORTH. 335 left it at seven o'clock, ^ing through a very unpleasant country, composed of heath and uind, and arrived on Friday the ninth, at three o'clock in the morning, at Klappcnborg, all the inhabitants of which are Catholics. We departed at five o'clock, and by nine reached the village of Largning, where wc heard mass. In this country they no longer conform to the old stile : the feast of St. Laurence was celebrating, whose muss was solemnly sung, accompanied by the organ. We went afterwards to the town of Hasselune, thence to Lingen, and arrived on Sunday the twelfth, at two in the morning, at Nothoron, a small town, in which the Catholics, Lutherans, and Calvinists, each publicly exercise their religion. The post- masters of this country are not famous for their honesty ; they asked us twice what they had a right to receive, and we were obliged to wink at their n^ery, m order to get on. We travelled over heaths almost as far as Dolden, a large village, near which is u fine castle ; there we came to a better country, as well in what regarded the soil, as its in. habitants. When we passed Ddden, we ^^ xeived many castles, with fine avenues to them ; notwithstanding there yet was a quantity of heath, on which they cut turf, which b almost their omy fuel. We arrived at the gates of Deventer, which were sliut, at mid- night : we passed the night in the suburbs, and on Monday the thirtee ith, at six o'clock, entered the town, which is pretty, neat, and apparendy well fortifier. We took fresh horses there, and departed at seven o'clock : on leaving it, we went over a handsome floating bridge (^ boats. The country afterwards was beautiful for two miles from the town : we tnien came to a very handsome and very large castle, a short time before we reached the post.house ; afterwards a forest of beech, and immense heaths, v/ithout vil-. lages, until within a mile of Amersford, where the country be^ns to improve. We saw there a great number of fiel^ of tobacco, and several very long buildings for drying it We passed through the town of Amersford, which is handsome and large ; the fortifications are not in rep^. At midnight we arrived at Narden, as pretty a town as possible to be ; its fortifications are respectable ; it is separated by several canals, over which are bridges. We continued our road along a canal until we arrived at Amster- dam, on Tuesday the thirteenth, at nine in the morning. We had again the pleasure to meet with M. de Maupertuis ; he had only arrived the day before : the wind for a long time had been adverse on his passage, and the vessel had been tempest tost. The rest of the day, and the succeeding one, we employed in examining the city and the port. Wednesday the fourteenth we embarked in a schuyt, where we were not very comfortable till we arrived at Leyden : we there took another boat, much more comraodious, and more clean ; and again another at Delft, which conducted us to R(Aterd{\m. AXi. these towns are elegantly handsome, and yield nothing in neatness to Amsierdanu Xji. -.-'H. «t :,t^- i ■■■^u^.-,. t. . y ». . The banks of the canal are adorned with magnificent houses, and very fine gardens, particularly opposite to the Hague. On one of the bridges of Rotterdam is the brass statue of Erasmus, dressed as a Coraelier, holding a book in his hand. The vessels seen on every ude in th'is town, on the canal, and on the river, ofier a very fine spectacle. M. de Maupertuis hired two calashes to continue our journey. Friday the sixteenth, at two in the morning, we crossed the Meuse in a large flat-bottomed boat ; at nine we passed the Scheldt, at a place where its waters are stopped by three fine locks, which serve to let down into the canal the barks and small vessels with which this prodi^ously wide river is covered. Near the locks there h a very large lanthem at the top of a mas^ with a ladder to go up to it. 1 1 Vi 336 OUTIIIRR'8 JCl/RNAL, 8u: '\ We sent back our calashes on arriving at the banks of the Scheldt ; and after passing it we met with fresh ones at Mordyk, which carried us to Antwerp, where we again changed our carriage : we there hired a lar^ coach, which would hold eight persona. From Antwerp we had the bent road possible, well paved, straight, and planted with trees on the sides ; attcrwards beside a fine canal, which we parsed by a bridge, on com* ing nigh to Brussels. The side of the canal towards the wcsi U horned with country houses, and magnificent garderts, where fountains >.re seen playing, and very high and well cut hedges. On C.'turduy the seventeenth, at seven o'clock in the evening, we arrived at Brussels, whence we followed the customary road to Paris, where we arrived on Tuesday the twentieth, at eight o'clock in the morning. M. de Maupertuis went forward from rercnni ; we proceeded to his house, and after resting ourselves, we completed our voyage by supping all tc^ther. We arrived too late on Tuesday to complete our hrst dutv, which was to go and render an account of our expedition to his majesty, the cardinal, and M. de Maurepas. On Wednesday the twenty-first we all proceeded to Versailles : we first went to M. Le comte de Maurepas, who received us m the most kind manner; he presented uato the cardinal minister, and aftermirds to the king. The cardinal observed to us, that the perfect union whkh had reigned among us during so k)ng a voyage delighted him extremely. M. Le comte de Maure^ afterwards carried us home to dine with him. It was scarcely possible for M. de Maupertuis to prevent the loss of some time, occa- sioned by the earnestness of so many friends. It was a week after our arrival before he laid the account of our trigonometrical observations before the academy ; in which, on a large scale, he exposed tne series of our triangles. ■ Friday the thirteenth of September we all went to the comte de Maurepas* ; , I took my leave of him, and returned to the bishop of Bayeux, to resume my ftxmer course of life. ; jk). ' .'4-". '' ! .■ »*■>' ■'\> :. liV ) r: / < \\.l!\ ••;!>. !>..■*■• -^'A, ». .■ . . V. ' . i. . . \ ■.■'.j( .,: f. .i.».»iiHii- ')..^ -►. :, ■'.■ , ,'j,,<-;v .-' . ' ■ -I -.iiiffis-' ■ r ' •'v.-i. ■■ • I . , ■. ., j'i.' .'. »'^-. J k '. t ./< it . .: 1 1 ; fi; . • !>''. ii ■'•.■.•i,v/ »' -'f. ' . i»ui7> f>ilW i*.sT«' ill .t.1 J->fc . r . < . i • .Jil^j'*! ifv^'/ "!►♦/« ,i4<«y '4 (!•'.»'. ^ir. Rsjk iifltti «a»U(.'ft i^>jj.>«.»'i jr- : "iJit :yi ^ . ...51 1 ' K, U.i4., I i .<. u^U ■ ^i-t tj«*tl^<*;|| -OS *(if? 'I. .'•■'. ''.i '■■^':>i '' ' • iJ^' *^«?ifrtM*'r •• • 'iix..'.. ■ .' .'7 Hip ^)?iiUi.-..i . ^ i ^. '.^ ?* 1^ • «-; jfa .i..i/jp,*;''iMV .«}»? - 5<; \ ;4: 1 .'■ w-«i9r k.. ><>:•» <■-, .;^.-^% ■^. T:^'* f? ■!*--•:. -■,r- ,.1 ' V , • .»-v'- ^■%^' ■n ■1» ■ ■ ■•■.*. .li I ih. 'i^'-->!Ui\^. m 4I» ■>0t- ■ ll»A.V ' .. '.•^V; , IB ?; 'I' u "It *1* ^^. - rr -^' " **' TRAVELS OF M. ARWID EHRKNMALM INTO Wl.STERN NOPDt.AND. AND 'iHi: LAPLAND HKOVINCL OF ASLIILL, Oil ANGHEUMANLANU, IN THE MONTH OF JUNE, 1741. rrROM THE HWr. OBN, DKS VOT. XXV. «««.] 1 HIS work, translated from the Swedish, is pcrfecUy new to foreigners, and the translation has been made for the History of Voyages and Travels : It will t-nlargc our knowledge of a country, which, though barren, and bvi a waste, is sufliciently near our civilized states to merit the attention of the reader. Shut.ld an invasion in Europe ever take place, it will, we have no doubt, proceed from thof c countries which wc at present despise. The most indigent nations only wait for some violent convulsion, some rupture in Europe, to fall upon it from all '>uarters ; and perhaps the Nordlanders will per- form their part in this great revolution. We regard it as a mere chimera ; because history does not present the samift even* Kice, and that the past, we imagine, fa.' fmrn being an example which ahontd abrm the present, is, on the contrary, the guarantee of our securiQr ; so does the difference of d^ne ftnd situation change the order of causes and effects. We confide b the polttica^ connections of Europe, which balance all its powers by one another, wfaSch gii!«^^A(< fo >ulty of foreseeing, and time to guard against, u-ruption. We trust in the^progreMof die art of wjm" ; in the security of fortresses ; in the mexhaustible reaouroe of fire-armii ; in money, which creates numerous armies ; in the multiplicity of states, winch mutually thwart the enterprises and retard the progress of one another; in commeiice, in fine, wMoh, nioUipiying and mingling interests and wants, diverts, towards tubonr and indtistry, that restlesa «nd furious activity of men, which formeriy inclined them-'to vmr. But ia not the inventioiv of fire.arms favourable to the northern nations, Whooti' nature has i^^shed with iron, to conquer the land ? Citadels, which may fmvtnlt ikapriscy will t^|j^ii^«{|M^ famine and devastation, with which it is easy to aurrotfhd thtra ? The gdiP' liHlioh pa^s the troops, will it inspire them with courage ? If ivsM^ fbr deftnect will .<|r^'tijt an aflurement for attack ? All the riches of the new world, Hihildf^ low in d>imjf|(]|bbrl«^^ of Europe, do they not invite the inhabitants of the n'J^.tfl to^va!n|b tn0 Mn^f;A^ iiot the connections of powers hasten the rev(^udon they '4i^i ,^ts^m^ fMiytn%f: V^^ not the preponderance of one of these northern e J w M ^ a des bpw^ on the &I^ind^ ruin of the equilibrium? Would not each petiqr r/iMiiber anite vypt^ilie greates#,^*|vMi the strongest, to complete the destruction of ^mdlK^biidy f DoMnSit commerce' jpm out the way to conquest ; does it not inspire te mpt ; tf |iif 'What biR|Vilen years warih-BjOrope is sufficient to de- prive the richest powers kl^nii^rica of diW'Oolonies? Why aMure ourselves that these, at the least shock of the tnoAttr countiy, ^Ruld not throw oflT'the yoke of the power which oppresses them ? T^ *iHial iHl{j|(q^l|l^(» #ttipon^me^ ^^^ ^^^ Indies, but to enervate, perhaps eiim^t^tibterieMii it -y^ the nadCft^1^|||ve seized on it, to the exclusion of all othergr > "Hie nbrfhem nations, foil of vigour, ^th1ih<^ir fbr(x.'s united, would fall upon our southern Countries. They are open to invasron % the passage of the two seas, which at pruient form the path of all countries ; by the effeminacy of the only inhabitants who have interest, without power ; by the misery of ^e only inha. bitants, who have power, without interest, to defend the state. What, when Rome pos- sessed all the riches of Asia, and all the strength of Europe ; a discipline unique ; a nation trained up to war by the conquest of the world ; nations which it had enlightened and civilized ; laws, arts, knowledge, and enjoyments, which should have rendered it I VOL. I. X X 338 TRAVBLI OP BIIRENMALM. dear to the extent of its dominion ; even at that rime it lost all, beheld every thing sink under its tcct : in lean than two aecs, the barhariunH seized on all itii wcscrncun- quests, arrived at its gates, overturned its empire, annihilated its power I And wc dare to hope, that with all its vices, and without its resources ; without spirit of union and pa- triotism among the principal families of each nation, all debased or corrupted by the servitude of courts ; without any political link between the people, who, by turns ene- mies and allies, know neither the mtcrests nor sentiments whicfi should unite or divide them ; without attachment fur a land, in which the soldiers who dcfeixi it poHsess no- thing, where all the fundamental bands of society are relaxed by the licentuiusness of the manners, and by the fatal necessity of a celibacy, which luxury ordains, though pro- scribed by nature ; we ho))e that, in such a situation, the nations will not dare nor be able to attempt any thing ? Slumber in indolence, ye that are bom to slavery ; it is of little conseciuence to you, into 'v hat hands your chains may fall. In the mean time let us consider the land, we idle cotitemplators, who can only think, without acting ; we, whom the spectacle of the vices of the age and our native countrv strongly repels toward regions, dreary indeed to the sight, but consolatory to the mind. Let us follow an enlightened traveller, who seeks, in the ruins and the deserts of nature, the traces and hoiieu of socialness : he is an academician of Stockholm, who has visited regions, where the liberty which reigns in his country might give rise to culture, and correct the defects of the climate. This journey w'M not be found the least instructive of this volume, nor of the whole collection. I^t us give the trave'ler leave to speak for himself; permitting ourselves to add and blend our reflections w a those with which he has embellished hih work. I acquit myself of a duty, by prese"««'«g the observations I have been enabled to make in my journey to the acaden>^ '*' which had countenanced it : whatever good it will meet with will be the lexw of the happy fruits it has produced i what defects and errors will be seen, only belong to the most useless of its members. Before commencing the description of the province of Asehle, which is the principal object of this ioumey, let me be permitted to say a few words of the country whicn I have traversedf, with my faithful companion, the baron of Cederhielm. The road leading from Upsal to Flaedsund is divided into three branches, towards the south, the north-east, and the north-west ; the Utter, which conducts to Old Upsal, ex- tends in a line so straight, that on departure the exuvmity may be perceived. This road appears to me the image and emblem of the order which should reiirn in all our ideas, whether of speculation or of conduct, and be directed towards the utility of man. The studies of the learned, the enterprises of the politician, conducting to the same end, ought equallv to concur to the happiness of society ; all which does not lead there de- viates from the paths of nature and of truth. The country, extending for two miles and a half from Upsal, presents a soil nearly all argillaceous, or fertile, whetlier in tlie cultivated lands or the meadows, without any other wood than juniper-trees, which are regarded by skilful economists as a sign of fer- tility. This land, which has never been manured, and wluch is but indiffereutly culti- vated, produces sufficiently good crops, with a certain abundance. The pasturages furnish a turf, which might make useful fuel. If trees were planted along the hedges, the flocks would And shade: lO repose in the night-time, during the long stay of the sun in summer, and the ix:asants wood, in the winters still longer. Great con(|uests would cost more to Sweden, and yield less, than the knowledge and cultivation of the good lands The Academy of Sciences of Sweden. T»;.. TRAVrUI or KMnKXMAI.M. 339 of that kingdom. It in hi^h time that man, who has ruvngcd and depopulated the earth for ages, hhould ;it laiit cndcaivour to fertilize it completely, und to cover it with inhabitants. The road leading from Licbi to Ohtflr is bordered with a land produciii}^ nothing but firs ; but if peace continue long, thcM- trees, yet ^oung, will lx;come ol great utility to navigation. This district, howevir, |)OS!iesbe8 villages, the fruits of cultivation, und exhibits some fertility. The sand of this soil is covtred, in some pliices, with a l)tdof black earth ; but this Iku) is of such little thickness, that it is more prejudicial than advau> tageous to bum the fields, in order to render them fertile. r«fo land is entirely useless in the eyes of an industrious economist. In these countries, almost deserts, the intelligent cultivators have left the hills to Ix: covered with woods, while they have distributed the plain into fields and pasture lands. Here are found fields of a sundy soil, which receives fertility by manure; hinds, a mixture of sand and argil ; and sf)ils of pure at-gil : beneath the beds of sand there must be u bed of argil, of the same nature as that of the vallies. At two miles and a half on this side of Gheflc we crossed the river of Dal, which proceeds from Dalecarlia, and passes to the manufactory of Avesta. Near this pus- Kigc we saw a fall, or cataract, which, wc were told, is the strongest of this river. At that place two islands divide it into three arms, which form three falls ; that on the east the steepest, and four fathoms high, falls from four rocks, which iiu "Hse the rapidity : the two oth/ r cascades, the one more feeble ihan the other, are little remarkable, and sometimes fail of water. Below these falls the shores of the river are of a bed of sand, which at the depth of two fathoms covers a bed of argil. The annual increase of the waters in the spring raises up the sand, and transports it to the bed of the river, where there are. formed moving banks, from ten to twelve firt in height: thr» tee of t]w river breaking up also detaches the sand, and augments the bunks of the river at the expcnce of its snores ; thus\hc shores are undermined, and its channel lessened; the lands become the prey of the waters, which should nourish them. An attempt might be made to dig the shores of the river when the waters are low, and to plant trees, which would protect the lands against tlie inundations :' the river, then compelled to run in its proper channel, would soon destroy the banks of sand which time has accumulated. It would become navigable ; and pos- terity would bless the generation, who should have thus prepared for the welfare of its descendants. It would be the means of deriving fertility even from the bosom of this river, which consumes the countries that it waters, to dig in the argil, or the rich land, which is bu- ried under the sand; the two mixed together would enrich the fields. This work might be attempted during the summer ; it would often be laborious, on account of the depth of the sand. But there are places where the argil, lying very near the surface of the earth, would rewsird the labourer lur the pains which this method of fertilizing his land would cost. Thus the river Dal, which, besides very full of other fish, furnishes great quantities of salmon and lampreys to the inhabitants of its shores, would also be- come a great resource for agriculture. There are few countries where the waters do not offer to man more means of subsistence than it deprives him of: the torrents, which ravage in winter, water the lands in summer. The great rivers, which desolate their shores to the right and left, moisten the lands far distant from these same shores, which they never cease to overflow. The sea, which exercises over the globe an eternal and insurmountable empire, receives men and nourishes them, when it has dispossessed them of their lands, or transports them to countries which it permits to exist, during some XX 2 I * i 340 lltAVKU or t'.IIRR.XMAI.W ! I i a^;c!i, 01) titcir rtniiulationn. Holland, China, tlu* commerce ol' the whole world, thi- fiMlicrmcn of thi north, and of all the (luvu^t: isluniU, cvi ly thuiK dc moniitraicH that thr bcu, notwithstandinu^ itH dclugcH, iiuindationh, and •ihipwackit, ih yet an element more bountifid than terrible. All die country is sundy from IClfcarleliy to Ghctle ; at timt place Upland endii, and GhcKtri-Kcland commenced. It in impoHiiibU- tcKi nuich to admire the road leading to that province across martheti ; or to Ik weary of l>choldin|r die muniRT in which lunnuti induttry has fnniished it on both sides with a rampart of Hints, which protect and Ixirdcr it like walls ; at the price of what lalM)iirs the inhabiiaut of un inacccMiible country Iuih been able to o|)en these mcuns of communication, which comiKiisate for die avarice und the . ugijiedness of nature ! Ghene is of no (^reat compass ; most of the houses are built of stone and wood toge- ther ; die streets are narrow, and sometimes cr(K)ked ; the market Uicrcforc, for want of outlets and o|M:nings, has no fixed place ; it is even held in the streets, which it in- cumbers, an inconvenience still more grievous in ga'at citiea, where carriages and cquipagis arc multiplied by luxury. But Ghefle is recomjKrnsed for this inconvenience, inse|)arable from its smal!:u;a9 and construction, by innumerable advantages, for which it is indebted partly to na urc, and piully to industry. It is situated at the extremity of a gulf; which the seu hab formeti half a mile in the land : the vessels ore sheltered dR*re from the rcx:ks and breakers, which beset the coasts of Sweden with diingei-s : hirge ves- sels, it is true, cannot anchor in the harbour ; but as the town is traversed by a river, this establishes a continual intercourse l)etwcen the magazines built on its bonks, and the merchandise unloaded or embarked at the port. A crowd of small boats carry on this communication. A machine, which serves to carry off* the mud, never ceases clearing this channel of navigation and commerce. Ghefle is n commercial and manufacturing town, rich and populous ; all the mechanics profit, all the inhabitants labour. This town, happily situatc*d lx:tween the sea and the mountains, serves as a magazine to the whole country, stamps a great value on its mines, and scatters\^undance throughout its lands. By the mediation of this port, the cop|)er attracts provisions, and the provbions occasion the exportation of the copper : the manufactures serve as vehicles for this com- merce. Under u heaven which only yields snow is seen a bakehouse of sugar, a pro- duction which only thrives under a burning sky ; this manufacture ir without the town ; within is a manufacture of tobacco, another production of the torrid zone. But what occasions one of the smallest cities of the north to flourish in an extraordinaiy manner, is a school for the thread and linen trade. The principal citizens send their children there, as well for their own advantage, as for an'example to the people, who find in this school a certiiin resource for the maintenance of their families. I cannot conceal the sentiment of joy with which my soul was aflfectcd at behold- ing an establishment so patriotic, so founded on humanity. The great quantity of flax which grows in this country, and the laborirus and careful character of the women, united widi the moderate price of provisions, cannot fail rendering the manufacture of cloth very advantageous, by increasing the cultivation of flax, so natural to lands which produce HtUeclse. The munufuctures of which the materials are foreign are not near in so great a proportion ; yet the bakehouse of sugar, established at Ghefle, is of great be- nefit. The proprietor, who prejwres five thousand pounds of sugar weekly, supports many men by this labour. The fir^t who opened this branch of industry was com|x:lled to buy of foreigners sugar-loaf moulds, for the value of twenty-four or thirty thousand cop|x r crowns. But the love of gain has occaaioned the discovery in the country iwelf of an earth sufficiently fine for these brick moulds; and the inventors are enriched, as THAVKLN Ur CHUKNMAL.M. Ml well a« their c.mntry, with all the mnnry which wnxM have ^onc out of it without thi-. diicitvcry. Virtue?!, as uNo vices wlKtlar in luonility or |M)htics, never go »ir»p;U , one brunch orcoiniuircc has given birih toothers. Happy the counui<«* who«»e inliabitants love hil)our, atui p- leuvour to proc.iire it hy their inj^eiuiity ! When ti,v material of the inanuru(^tiirc!i is at a great price, and the return of the great advances slow, the worknufi are long idle, for the enterpriser will not overcharge hiln^.'lf with merciiandiac In the uncertainty of gain he avoids hazard, or makes it fall on the purchaser, by raising the price of these articles : from that time he diminishes the consumption, and leaves unent' ployed a great many hands, wliom ofteti he has taken from agriculture, to which thev no more return. Such is the inconvenience of manufactures of luxury. Those of Ghellc are not liable to it : the two thirds of its inluibitants, which industry or eommeree doen not occupy, are employed in fishing ; and even the peasants have recourse to this busi> ncss, when the earth is not §u(hcient for their subsistence. The rich people possess in the town u school, and a small college, with six lecturers. Children; to whom nature has given genius or taste for the sciences, may there accpiire suthcient Uieory to |x:rfcct tlie practice of the civil arts. Ghcflc is the residence of the governor of Western Nordland, which comprehends Ghestri-Kelund, Helsingeland, Medclpad, iemteland, and Anghcrmanland. There was formerly a small castle, which the government have not possessed the iK'cuni.iry means to rebuild, but which, ncvcrUickss, would ben eccssary to protect the town from any insult. In Ghestri-KelaiKl nearly all the peasants live with comfort ; they dwell in houses tole- rably well built : it is because they are citizens of a country where their class is an order of the state, a body respected by all the others, us the most numerous, the most ix)u crful, and, above all, the most useful, in the view8 of nature. It is not innuired in Sweden whether it b proper to give propriety of lands to the peasants ; they have it, and they cuUivatc them, because they arc in possession of them. The inhabitants of Nordland aro more active, laborious, healthy, and strong, than those of the south of Sweden ; they receive strangers with much more affection, if they are not importunate. Most of the Nordlanders paint the interior of their chambers, to enliven their abodes, which the climate renders dreary. They arc cleanly in their dress, and also in their food ; but their nourishment is not very delicate : cheese and butter are suflBicient for the simple inhabitants : they cat barley and oaten bread in scarcity oi rye, which is observed to decrease, both in quantity and quality, the farther wc advance north. But the vices which exist in the south are observed to diminish in the same pro. portion : travellers are there as safe as the inhabitants, without locks or bolts. Ecggarj IS very rare, because idleness excites no pity ; but the wants of old age and infirm indi - gence are supplied by the social affection which unites families. The duties of kindred, ttie sentiments of friendship, have no reputation, they ivre so common : little falsehood, and no oaths. The candour of youth is pK^rpetuated in the uprightness of old age : there are no vices between these two ages, which wither the flowers oi* the former, and the fruits of the latter. The picture of these manners, worthy the pencil of Tacitus, is not a mere fiction. The peasants of Nordland are excellent cultivators : meadows are the mothers ol fields; they are acquainted with this rule of agricuHure. In order to obtain the best grass, they every year cultivate a portion of their pasturages : the first year they sow flax without manyre ; the second, barley, or mixed grain ; the third winter they cast dung on it, especially that of the horse ; they afterwards plough this field, and in the spring sow oats. When the harvest is got in, they again appropriate this land to 342 TRAVELS OF EHURNMALM. nicadows, and change the land of men into what the / call cows' land : the grass, rich and abundant, which dicy derive from it for seven or eight years, pays them with usury both for their manure and labour. These large meadows are intersected by hedges, where each peasant proprietor has his barn : the fields, in the same maniiCr, are divided into as many partitions as there are families or cultivators ; these latter comn¥jnly only sow the argi..uceous lands, which may reward their pains. If this country possessed more inhabitants, it would become more fertile. I have seen many places capr.ble of cultivation, and much marshy ground, which might be turned into excellent meadows. Not merely that on the heights there is found much stony sand, which, scarcely having an inch of rich land, would not be worth the pains of clearing the wood. But good croos might be drawn from many vallies, covered with hv-rbs, which grow naturally amongst birch and oziers : these trees are of a green, and vigour which indicate a land fit for cultivation. The products, as well of the land, of the commerce of grain, the fishery, the flocks, of which thty sell, the milk and butter, mines, manufactures, and especially of those of flax, pay for their subsistence, and the imposts of Nordland. In the west of this pro- vince they also collect hemp, of which they make sails. They are inferior to those of Stockholm ; but if they are not sufficiently strong for vessels, they serve at least for barks, and to make tents and sacks. The peasants of Nordland have procured a species of cows, which are small indeed, but yield a great quantity of milk,, a profit for which they are indebted to the assiduity of their cares, and the quality -if their pasture lands. They have excellent hay ; i i.d the straw of the grain they sow is better than that of rye. They are careful during the sum- mer to collect leaves of brrch, alders and oziers, which they dry. They mix them in the winter with the bran of their grain, in hot water, and fill large tubs with them, which are in the stalls of the Cc.:tle. The forage cf the meadows is reserved for the winter. Thus during the summer the Nordlanders lead th° cattle, far from their dwellings, into kinds of stalls, or they leave them at liberty to graze on the environs. Some of these pens are common to whole villages : some belong to particular families. A peasant has in his fold one or several chambers, where he dwells, prepares and keeps his milk food. These folds are established in ^he midst of the woods., at places where there is tolerably good grass. These uncultivated spots are by degrees changed into meadows, field&> and gardens. The cattle pass the night in these grounds, when they would prepare them for tillage ; or else they carry che dung there from the stalls. In each family the greater number passes the summer with their cattle. During that time they prepare the fal'ow ground, by burning the '.» jods and heaths ; inclose fields ; they till them, gather the little they have sown, spin, and make cloth. At the time of the hay harvest they all go, men and women, to reap and gather in their crop. The Nordlanders have many goats, a cattle easily bred up ; but few sheep, the wool of which is too coarse to repay them for the trouble it costs. The swine, nearly all the summer, seek their food in the woods. They are only seen in the winter in villages, where they are fed with b&rk of trees. The p asants dwelling near the mines are those who may possess the greatest number of horses : but they have scarcely one for nine cows. These horses are at the most four fee: and a half high. The finest are those which were left by the Finlandish regi- ments of cavalry in Nordland, during the winter quarters of the war preceding 1740. In proportion as we advance north, the horses decrease in size and strength. Those of Western Nordland are of a smgular form. They have the head and eyes large, small I'RAVELS OF EHRENMALM- 343 ears, very short neck, full chest, strait ham, the body of little length, but large, short loins between the tail and the belly, the upper part of the leg long, the lower siiort, the bottom of the leg without hair, the hoof small and hard, the tail large, the hair thick, small feet, sure, and never shoed : they are good horses, seldom restive or obstinate, climbing up all the mountains. They owe their strength to the excellent grass on which they feed. The odour of clover announces fine meadows from afar. When these horses are moved to the pasture lands at Stockholm, they seldom pass a year there without growing lean, and losing their vigour. On the contrary, the horses which come from more northern countries into Nordland, though sick the first year, recover their strength. But on the other hand, stallions brought from a more southern climate would here degenerate, perhaps at least in size. From Gheflc to Hemosand, we never lose sight of the gulf of Bothnia, which t>y its fishery might su^iport the inhabitani:;^ of its shores ; but there are also found in the midst of the woods, lakes, some of them extensive, others smaller, which abound in large fish, and of good flavour, such as pike, bream, and perch. These lakes are bordered with verdant shrubs ; they flow in small vallies, which they clothe with grass, and often form, by their union, rivers, in which salmon is found. Most of these lakes are in elevated situations, and their waters turn many mills. The trees of this dbtrict are tolerably good in some places, and fit for timber- work, but, in general, small, weak, old, and overgrown with moss. There is but a single peasant's house between the inns of Hammarangria and Skog, which are at the distance of three miles from each other. It is situated by a lake abounding in fish, near the bridge thrown over the little rivulet separating Ghestri. keland from Helsingeland. The peasant who dwells there possesses lands, which, bor. dering the highway for the space cf a mile, extend half a miie into the country. A wood to the south serves in common for the parish of Hammarangria ; a wood to the north serves in common for the paiish of Skog. Each of these woods is a mile and three quarters in length, and one in breadth. This country only wants men. Although the whole extent of this road is covered with sand and aged firs, at intervals there are seen lakes and vallies, clothed with herbage and wood. Nature k ready to assist culti. vation. From Skog we proceed to the river of Saderahl, where b found a ferry-boat. This river merits attention. It yields a very considerable salmon fishery. It serves to trans- port to Soderhama ^>ie iron which is worked in the mills it turns. Every thing ivhich contributes to the subsistence of man, to the relief of his real wants, ought to interest him. The iron mines of Nordland do not present to the imagination of the reader those torrents of blood and carnage, with which we see the mines of gold overflowing, in the deplorable history of the New World. Man, bom good and virtuous, delights to travel, at least in imagination, into these barren countries of the North, which, existing under a fi-ee and patriotic government, do not repel the heart by scenes of crime and vexa- tion, engendered by one another. Nature there is sad, and even harsh ; but there man b not imilevolent; man, who nearly over the whole earth occasions the woes of his kind. The soil of Helsingheland is similar enough to that of Ghestrikeland ; equally stony, more barren, overspread with steeper mountains. Helsingheland has besides a mixture of every kind of soil ; gravel and sand which produce firs, rich and firm argil, marshes, miry plains, black earth ; in fine, it is intersected with lakes, of which the bottoms are sometimes sand, and sometimes mud. In the district where the road borders the sea, ih-^re appear to have beeq woods fit for timber work, but they have all been cut, and 344 TRAVELS OP EHRENMALM. I I ii no more is seen than pines, and woods of which the blackish verdure is eternal, like the sadness and melancholy which it imparts. The difference observed of one province from another is composed of insensible shades. It gradually augments and diminishes. Nature does not proceed by leaps : all her works form a chain, the links of which are imperceptible to the eye which regards them the nearest, while the vulgar eye only sees itk the picture of the physical or moral world strong and sharp colours, which diversify it, without observing the intervals where tliey mingle and grouiul with one another. The people vary but little, like the climate and soil they inhabit. A sudden difference is seldom seen between neighbouring nations. Yet, in the same manner as the constitution of our bodies de- pends on our food, the method of thinking and acting is the fruit of education, ex. ample, and custom. The government, which may be termed the education of the people, modifies the natunil disposition of the mind and body, and sometimes derogates, by transient variations, the constant law of the climate. But u the policy of states has litUe influence in Nordland, nature alone has there fonmed the constitution of the men. The inhabitants of Helsingheland are of thick stature, with large limbs. They are vigorous, industrious, and expert in the mechanical arts. Their culture differs from that of the environs of Stockholm. All their lands are sowed with spelt, excepting one or two acres intended to produce rye. These latter are first lightly plougi.ed in the spring ; but they undergo several operations in summer. The harrow is passed over them ei^t days after the plough or mattock. The land fit for r;^e, which is so rank as to nroduce many tares, requires hard labour, but short, and little expensive, because it docs not extend far. Flax is sowed in the lands prepared for the culture of com, in untilled land, and in argillaceous earths, where it greatly thrives. The dung is liot conveyed, either during the summer, because the com is then stand- ing, nor during the autumn, because the cattie graze the stubble, but in the spring, because in that season the cold is not sufficiently strong, nor the sun sufficiently hot, to dry up the moisture of the earth. The dung is then of greater bulk and less weight. It is spread at several different times, and in thin beds. The manure does not so soon loose itself in the sand, and the rain much better dissolves the salts. But the dung and the lands are often burnt, in the idea and hope of increasing the fertility. When they reap, the sheaves of corn are never placed upright in the fields. But if the weather is serene, several sheaves are arranged in crosses on one another, which are pierced through, and fixed to the ground by a stake six feet in length. When the wind has blown for two days on these sheaves, during very dry weather, they are car- ried into the barns. But during cloudy or rainy weather, they are laid up in a machine called a hassior. These are vertical beams, through which pass cross bars ; these beams are often composed of two pieces fastened together with oziers, to raise or lower the cross bars at pleasure. The sheaves are spread on these bars. The lowest is a little raised above the ground. A bed of corn-ears is placed on it, which b fixed by the second bar, which presses it. This latter supports a second bed, fastened and picssed by a third bar ; and this heap of sheaves is thus raised to the height of four or five fathoms. Under the bar which supports the first bed from below is placed a pole, fastened at one of its ex- tremities, with an ozier, to the second bar from above. At the other extremity is a hole, .and through it passes a cord, by which the whole mass is raised, so that a man cannot reach it ; this pole perhaps raised from one extremity of the hassior to the other. Th» whole heap is covered with straw. The com thus collected is left under the roof of the suraw, for any length of time, and in all weather. Beyond Hernosand, towards the north, the hassior serves as a granary, not only for corn, but to dry and preserve the hay. TRAVELS OF RHRENMALM. 345 » 9 D e It or } It 3t :d The hay harvest lasts longer in these northern provinces, than towards the soutli, though both men and women labour. In Helslnghcland, the hay mowed in the morning in the evening is placed in small heaps. In other parts it is spread in l)eds in the barns, where u is left to dry, before it is laid up. In Anghcrman. land :t b kept in the hassiors, which are by the side of the meadows, until the approach of winter. Formerly the fields of Helsingheland were not inclosed. ^*t present they more re- semble gardens than fields, by the moats with which they are surrounded. Their economy proceeds so far as to draw all the herbs from these ditches, which are left to rot, to make manure. Green turf and peat equally serve for this purpose. This manure prepares the lands for the sowing of the corn. The com has two plagues to dread, frost and mildew. This latter stains the ears witli a dusky red ; but it only blasts the com near the mines. The fogs of the morning and evening, so destructive to com in many countries, are salutary m Nordland. On the other hand, the serenity of the nights sometimes occasions scarcity. In the montlis of July and August we often experienced a hot day. and a cold night We felt a very sharp cold, especially in the vallies covered with wood. This might perhaps be a reason for clearing the country of all the useless wood. The naked lands, and the open heights, are less exposed to the cold. If the land were more cleared, it would increase in population. The rye thrives well in those parts where the wood has been burnt. The ears of com I have seen were full and rich ; the straw strong. But a small number of inhabitants cannot undertake an extensive cultivation. New colonics must be established in these desert districts, or at least the number of families and houses should be increased. But new farms are not formed, because the lands are never divided. A father of a family is only succeeded by one of his children ; all the others, having no share in the estate, rather choose to become mariners. Yet if they remained in Sweden, they would be of essential service to the state. But after having been trained to the sea in Nordland, they often engage at Stockholm, with vessels which sail to distant countries. The allurement of a greater recompence oc- casions them to lose sight of their country : they serve foreign nations, and seldom re- turn to Sweden. In vam do the laws forbid them, to leave their province ; interest pre- vails, both over the wisdom of the regtilations, and the vigilance of a few magistrates, who are unable to manage a country too extensive. Ihe ordinances which limit the rights of a free nation are never observed, when they would detmn in a land, but thinly peopled, men who have no hare in the possession. They have no native country, who possess no land. A country is in fact only peopled in proportion to the number of its proprietors. Artizans, sailors, and soldiers, belong to any country who can aifoni to pay them. Man properly only belongs to the land which belongs to him. Mankind is mcreased by lands. All other methods of popuLition are precarious and transient Nordland has still more occasion to attach her inhabitants by possession, since the soil is more unkind. The dales are scarcely inhabitable. Most of the villages and parishes are situated cm hills. The cold of the climate, which permits but little cultivation, and occasions firequent scarcity, compels the Nordlanders to live, not on acorns, which nature denies them, but even on the bark of trees. From underneath the thick rind of the fir they take a white cuticle, covering this wood, dry it, first in their hassiors, then in the oven, and reduce it to flour. In fruitful seasons it feeds the swine, and makes them become very fat But in time of scarcity, the rich people mix this fiour with barley, and the poor with bran, and make a kind of bread. It b dry, and rough VOL. X. V y 346 TRAVELS OV EHRV.NMALM. to the palate ; those wlio eat it, are neither less healthy nor vigorous. Perhaps the cheese and butler, with which they season this hard and insipid mess, may supply the want of substance and moisture. Beholding on one side the treasures and crimes pro- duccd by the torrid zone ; on the other the want and peace which reign towanls the frozen zone ; we a^ at a loss for which we should be most thankful, the prodigality or avarice of nature ! Happy are the countries, where she is neither so harsh as to com- pel men to w t, nor so liberal, as to dispense with l&*jour. Such is the situation of Nordland. At the distance of half a mile from the ferry-boat of Ssederahl, towards the north- west, is found the linen manufactory of Flors. We saw children of the country, who had been at the business but three or four years, working with all die confidence and address which might result from a long experience. Here are manufactured fine and coarse cloth, thread stockings, night-caps, Jamasked table-cloth, as fine as the foreign. Yet it is complained that the works of this manufactory are of unequal tex- ture, and little duration. This defect iu-ises from the inequality both of heat and humidit}', which reigns in the rooms where they work. Each workman leans his loom against a window ; the exterior air is often moist, while that of the room is hot. The air Avhich then entei .> at the crevices of the window meeting the nearest threads preserves them in their full length ; and those which are farther in the chamber dry and con- tract. The warp therefore becomes unequal, shorter at one of its extremities than the other, and breaks when worked. It r. ust often be renevved, and the cloth in conse< quence is weakened. When it is used, the change of dryness and humidity which it experiences, giving an imequal tension, occasions it to yield and break. The hot water which is kept in these rooms might ^ve a temperate heat, and the vapour arising from it might preserve the threads in nearly an equal degree of tension. But the sun, whose light is requisite, shining on one side of the room, still occasions inconvenience. To remedy this, M. Bennet, the director of this manufacture, has buried his shop in a sandy eminence, and constructed a large parapet, raised to the win- dows, made of bark of trees, moss, heath, and everywhere covered with green turf. By these means he gives a moderate degree of (humidity to his rooms, nearly every- where equal, which must produce the best works. If the manufacture of Flors had not been placed in such skilful hands, it would have fallen into discredit, from which the greatest exigence could have raised it again but extremely slow ; since it is not more easy to restore fashion to articles, than reputation to men. Thanks to the cares of an industrious administrator, I have seen in the bleaching yard of the manufacture of Flors thread as fine as that of Holland. The method of sowing the linseed in the environs is the same as fcrmerly. But this manufacture has inspired them viith desire, and afforded them the means, of cultivating flax proper for fine works. They have learned the art of making the flax and cloth more quickly, and rendering them extremely white. When the inhabitants of a country are able to im- prove the gifts of nature, to procure themselves a livelihood, which affords greater com- forts, at the same time that it requires more labour ; wheii the increase of industry en* sures that of fortunes and families ; a commerce more extended, the means of subsistence multiplied, agriculture brought to perfection, a general activity, a more universal pros- perity ; this moving spectacle fills the heart of a true patriot with a lively and unaffect- ed joy, with love for the labour which produces all these benefits, with zeal to employ his talents and power for.tjje happiness of his brethren. A happy and contented people is never beheld without a delightful emotion, which makes us rejoice in our ex- istence. We do not contribute to this public felicity, without gathering ourselves the rRAV«:L» OF KIlRbNMALM. J47 first fruits. How is it possible there caii be princes and ministers on the curtii, who do not enjoy this foretuste of the immortality reserved for their labours ! The manufacture of Flors spreads industry and fertility around it. In its eastern environs, which border the sea, few families are found, either rich or poor, who are not occupied in making spinning-wheels and looms. This lal)our procures them the means of living tolerably well, notwithstanding the dcarness of the corn they must buy, and their objection to pay a tax which is well administered. The town of Soderhamni, which is a mile and a half distant from Flors, feels but faintly the influence of this manu- facture. It is small, situated between two mountains, on the banks of a rivulet. Few houses are seen, which are better constructed than those of the peasants around it. To paint them would lie an idle luxury. 'I'he inhabitants only labour in order to subsist. The works of their hands clothe them, and their food would be little relished elsewhere. But the method of spinning and making cloth they have brought to per* fection. Commerce would thrive well, if the town were not too far from the sea. Yet fishing, the common resource of all the Nordlanders, a little agriculture and gardening, in a soil which produces with difficulty, contribute to support its inhabitants in that state of mediocrity, which leaves nothing to wish for, nothing to regret. These men, who lead a life of innocence, arc besides employed in the manufacture of arms, for the chastisement of vicious nations. The forge of Soderhamm is the most ancient of the kingdom of Sweden, and at present the least excellent. Yet there is seen a handsome pump, which is worked by means of a single wheel ; a simple and wonderful invention of Polheim, a man of great talents in the most useful arts. Soderhamm is besides remarkable for the church of Ulrica Eleanora, a tolerably good building. It has some ornaments of wood, as its dome, sufficiently tasteful, though little eypencivf. As a man is allured even to piety by the senses, an organ has been con ict- ed in this church, and I can affirm that it will be one of the best in Sweden, for strength, harmony, and purity of sound. When I saw it, besides the ordinary tones of an organ, it produced those of a woman's voice, and German flute : the latter was so accurate, that the ear was completely deceived. The name of the artist who constructed this oij^n is Daniel Strale. This man deserves to be much more known, since he is un- airccted in his manners, mild, without any arrogance, and without that spirit of cupidity, by M^iich intri^ing men obtain the reward of the inventors. Helsingheland extends to a village two miles to the north of the inn of Gnarp. On this road we meet with nine or ten villages, and some lonely houses. In several places of this road we observed those stones called lapis violarum spurius. If intelligent miners were sent to these districts, they would no doubt find mines ; and this discovery would be extremely useful to the proprietors of the smitheries established in the envi- rons. It would even increase the number of mills with much greater facility, since the whole country abounds vrith woods and water falls. Between Igghesunid and Saima I saw, on my journey, the town of Houdwikswald. It is situated on a small tongue of land, stretching between the sea and the lake Houd- wik. It has a very good and deep harbour. Its inhabitants are employed in fishing and the mechanical arts. They manufacture in particular a great number of wooden chairs, which are transported to Stockholm. Every town which labours for the capital deserves some fame. The smallest branch of industry is interesting, in p. country where nature offers few means of subsistence. It is pleasing to see the men struggling against the cruelty of her denials, endeavouring by labour to avoid that insignificance, from V which she appears to have drawn them with y y2 regret, to invo've them quickly .348 TKAVRLS OF KIIRRNMALM. 1 aguin. Where the earth is sordid, man is the creator ; where the earth yields every thing, man alone is nothing. On the roud leading from Ghi>flc to Sundswald, I observed some hop plantations, on hillocks exposed to the sun. Beyond Sundswald, the only plantation I saw was by a small house situated on the Niouronda. Periiaps these arc the last efforts of a land, which, removing from the sun, sinks into the obscunty and solitude of the frozen zone. When we passed through Gnarp there was a little fair. We saw merchants enough, but little merchandise. This parish is the mart of the towns of Nordland. All com- mercc is carried on there by reciprocal exchange. The peasants come to pay for the merchandise they h ; taken on credit ; they acquit themselves by provisions. This species of commerce, oy xchangc, is universal throughout Nordland, although the met. enandisc is not every where the same. The peasants, who in winter have occasion for corn, tobacco, or clothes, in spring and summer for salt, iron, and even money, to pay the taxes, borrow what thev want of the citizens. When their fortune and credit warrant their solvency, they lend them what they require, on condition of re-payment at the first fair, at the current price of the place, in butter, cheese, meat, fish, flax, cloth, stockings, pitch, and tar, and sometimes in ?lanks. But if they are little known, the price of what they lend is fixed before hand, "he opulent {x^ople, who repair to the fair to sell, proportion the price of their merchan- dises to the want the purchaser has for them. Those who pay ready money for the commodities the^ purchase for ilie maintenance of the whole year, might sell these for a greater price, which they would not be obliged to give in return. But die citizens never buy of a p< '\sant, who sells to any other but his confidential merchant. Th« latter, on his side, never buys any more of the peasant, who does not confine to him alone the whole of his commerce, and endeavours to injure the merchant who succeeds him. It is a species of monopoly ; but it arises fi'om the Nordlanders being compelled to bring the produce of their land to Stockholm, and to derive all their consumption from that city. The government will no doubt correct these abuses, and render the com- merce of the capital more favourable to the peasant. The higher class, whose interest it is to participate in every kind of riches, will be enabled to trade, in proportion as the population increasing in the countries will stock the towns with real dealers, and particu- lajh mechanics. Example has more effect than rule. The inferior classes imitate the higher ; and villages are modelled afler cities. Let manufiictures be established at Stockholm, and the provincial towns will bring their industry and commerce to perfection, in imitation of the capital. From Helsingheland we pass into Medelpad. The first object which meets the atten* Uon of the traveller is the river of Niouronda. It descends from Heriedale, deriving its source from the mountains ; it is large and navigable. Its shores are bordered with large woods and rocks ; few fieldis which admit of cultivation, and yet fewer which are tilled. Towards Sundswald, the land is sandy, useless to the inhabitants, and incommodious to travellers. Sundswald is situated in the midst of a plain, covered with barren sand, and surrounded by high mountains. A small gulf, extending for half a mile to the sea, ren- ders this town extremely fit for commerce, affording to vessels the facility of coming there, and taking in their cargo almost entire. The exports from Sundswald consist in chairs, pitch Hud tar, planks, the bark of trees to make bread, works of wood, linen cloth, meat, and milk food. The imports ^ven in exchange conust of com, salt, tobacco^ wooUeQ cloth, spices, wine and brandy. TRAVELS OF KIIUEVMALM. 349 A dock for building of ships has lutcly been established. It might also serve for the provision of the salt of all Nordland. A niuiiMlUctory of wool is also seen there, which IS only in its infancy, but happily enough begun to increase and pros|)er. The sheep of the country have a coarse rfeece. If the peasant were assisted by the advances of the rich proprietors, he would soon have flocks with fine wool. For this purpose it would only be required to improve the forages by culture. The church of Sundswidd is of wood, and very ancient, as are all the houses. Oppo site to the custom-house a church has been constructed of free-stone, on a sandy hill. Its form is oval ; the walls and roof are fmished ; but the dome, which is but half made, is every where cracked. The architect is a peasant of the vallies. But the workman is less to blame than those who have employed him. A good architect would say, that the dome has cracked, because the arch is too elevated, or too flat ; or because the foundation lies in a moving and little stable soil ; or that the building itself, without piU lars, is too wide for its length. But I dare afiirm that all these defects are there united. Besides, the vvaiis are too thick, and the windows small. The country to the north of Sundswald a|)pears to be a little better cultivated than that towards the south. In general, it rather wants culuvators than fertility. The banks of the river Indahl, on tlie right and led, for the space of a league and a half, are deep sands, but fertile, and covered with a thin bed of black earth. Between two large neighbouring mountains are found many cultivatable lands, composed of sand and argiL Li this prospect we observed a great number of alders thriving on the heights ; they resemble nut-trees, in their leaves, bark, and wood ; hut they are a little larger. We imagined we saw beds of argil, sometimes thick, sometimes thin, underneath the sand of the heaths we traversed. In several places we met with people who assured us they had found beds of arg^l, sometimes of the thickness of three fathoms, and some> times of only a foot. The banks of the rivulets and rivers of the whole of this district are very much elevated, and the bed of argil lying under the sand may be distinctly seen. The sands appear to be the eflR.ct of a very ancient inundation. Most of the hills of sand are steep, and increase in height from south-east to north-west ; while the rivers descend from the north-west to the south-east, towards the sea, which probably has formed the hills and rivers. Add to this observation, that there is seldom found in the vallies a pure sand, without a mixture of argil. The latter no doubt must belong to the nature of the soil, the former may have been cast there by the sea. The woods of Medelpad, especially those through which the road lies, are nearly all cut or burnt. Few firs are seen, but many small pines and other shrubs. The country of this province resembles that of Helsingheland ; with this difference, that we meet with more inc'tosed fields, and a richer soil. Does ihis advantage arise from the mountains with which the country is surrounded ? We know that vallies and plains are enriched at the expence of the mountaia<), which are thinned by the torrents. Is not this land in. debted for its abundant moisture to the number of lakes which water it ? The pasturages are more fisrtile ; die fields, more multiplied, remain unemployed for a longer time ; the flocks are not led there, nor is there so much flax sown as in Helsingheland. The men at Medelpad are large and athletic, more able, lively, adroit, and more addict- ed to commerce, than in that province. The cattle ai-e larger, give more milk, assume a wlutish colour, which gradually augments, so that there are very few at Asehle which are not wtute. Is this a quality of the same sf)ecies of cattle ? Is it owing to the climate, to the nature of the pasture lands? Or have the peasants chosen in preference white I 35Q IkWKLS UF KllltKNMAI.M animals? Tlic climate is one of the strongest reasons. It lias a sin^^ular inHuencc on colour. In the middle of the river Induhl, by the place \vc passed, is seen u very beautiful island, which has on each side a bridge, formed of Hat bo.its : beyond and below this isle the river appears to be u thousand fathoms in width ; it is rapid ; it springs from the lake Storsion, or great lake, and receives in its course nine small rivers, which descend from the mountain. Beyond this isle arc many water-falls : a mile below it runs into the scu on the east, which supplies it with salmon. The province of Medelpad is separated by a small rivulet from Angherman. On entering this latter Hcrnosand presents itself, situared in afi island surrounded by the sea, and joining the continent by a bridge thirty fathoms in length. This town, burnt by the Russians in 1719, like all those of Nordland, is com|Xised of wooden houses and nur. row streets. The south side is built on the declivity of a hill, extending to the seu; on this side it only receives lighters and large barks ; but on the northern side the largest vessels may anchor, and load before the magazines. There are few inhabitants. Bodies of trades are useless here, for want of capital ; and the college is of no benefit, in the want of occupations more essential than study. The women spm, warp, and manufacture cloth ; though they succeed indifferently, it is one of their principal resources. Nearly all the men fish during the summer : they salt all the fish they take, or sell them fresh to the peasants, who salt them for their use. When the birds of the sea collect together, it is a signal for the fishermen that the fish are not far off: the sea is imme> diately covered with boats and nets. Every society would have laws relative to its kind of life and property. The fishermen of Hernosand have a maritime code, according to which they are Judged, by a particular council. All the inhabitants of Hcrnosand, ex- cepting five or six, live on the product of their fishery or lands. The lands are divided between all the citizens ; they burn them, and sow them with rye ; they have pasture lands, which they hire of each other on occasion, at a price vary, ing with the abundance or scarcity of forage. Near a soil which they have observed to be fit for the bearing of flax, they have built in the town itself a manufacture of linen cloth. This establishment will become considerable, if we may judge from the situation of the town, the character of its inhabitants, and the nature of the soil. The commerce of this country consists particularly in flax : it has besides, like the other districts of Nordland, a resource in the traffic of game, which it sends to Stock- holm during the whole of the winter. In Hernosand there are factors, who travel in the summer to certain parts of Lapland, to buy, or exchange for brandy, all merchandise suitable to that town : these merchants travel farther than fifteen miles. They would render greater service to commerce and the state, if they employed themselves in tan- ning of hides, and prei^aring the skins of the beavers they procure from Anghermanland and Lapland : they would add or substitute the profit of the manufacturer to that of the dealer : the returns of their capital would augment in their hands. The town of Hernosand is paved with a species of flint, which might be used as whet- stone ; but it is so common, that the commerce would not compensate for the cxpences. The mineral waters of the environs, very rich in ochre, form a more lucrative object, Hcrnosiuid has the advantage of being the residence of the superintendant of all Nord- land, which is the most extensive and perhaps the best government in Sweden. But there exists an abuse, common enough in that kingdom, which is, that the superintendant possesses the prebends destined for the lecturers of the colleges, who never enjoy them : thus the patron becomes the incumbent; nevertheless, Hernosand without a college TKAVM.S OF I.IIItKNMAI.M. 351 would merely be a vilInfj;o. Indif^'ncc often rcigiis then?, from the scarcity of corn, nnd the smallncss of the product of the fi!>hci\ : there air siicccjihive years, in which the earth und the seu arc equally Hordid. The inhahitaiits of Hernosund might remedy these de« fects by the resource of labour, if it were suffuient to Ix? miserable, in ortler to become induhtrious ; but they would have ixic.ision for advance tice, or at least a folly, of courtiers to complain of the disgraces which they should have foreseen, by facing them ; which they purchase before-hand, by the value they set on . the shortest favour ; and which they constantly deserve, were it ojjly by the good offices they render themselves, by corrupting or pilfering their maiter. But it is an ingrati- tilde in people who dwell on the banks of rivers, when they complain of inundations. "'^i TRAVKU or CURKNMALM. ^53 A ltirf[;e river overflown rsvaf^s, it is true, cultivated fields ; sometiines curricH away hiimlcts, with tlicir inliabiUtnts uixl Hoclcti destroys the pruvisions ul' oiu- Viur, the crupK of antHlier, and tlic rcHourcot of Hcvcrul. But this river has produced during agen nii inimcnM: )xj()uluticN), by the fertility of its banl(8, by navifration, and commcrcr ; it has given water to the cattle, who manure the land, and att'ord food to nnait ; it has supplied lu inhabitanU of its utiort s with ii^h : if it had not fed the regions which it traverses, we should not behold them covered with fields, towns, rich and populous cities. Happ) therefore are the states which are watered by great rivers, it the inhabitants know how to take advantage of the bcnctits thev oiler, and provide aguiuht the disiL subsistence from the waters than tlie land : it scarcely possesses any other soils fit for cultivation than those which arc marshy. Near Resilla is seen a hill covered with bushes, which arc only fit for burn- ing; It is the must elevated part of the environs ; the soil is G;ood, but uncultivated, be. cause it is overspread with streams, which render it miry. Nearly in all Nordland, each peasant possesses a small water-mill, the wheels of which ore horizontal. Water even which refuses to tht; culture of lands, lends at least its assistance to the labour of man. Between Liens and lunsila the lands, nearly all stony, are covered with moss and wood : they could procure timber, if thev h\A the means of conveying it. A merchant of Hemosand has attempted to procure some : durfng the winter he had some cut, and carried to the riverside ; then, about the middle of summer, at the greatest swells of the waters, he had his wood thrown into it in pieces : the river has brought sevenil of them to the place he wished ; but many others have been stopped by the sinuosities of the river : p< rhaps another swell will bring the remainder of his c4irgo of wood. This metliod of conveyance would be useful to navigation ; for in those woods there are found trees which appear very fit for masts : it is true that they are in general iiijured by the inclemency of tlie seasons ; many are frozen, beat down by the wind, 01 at least broken ; the greater part is cracked. The cold, which is injurious to the trees, is yet more fatal to the com. The inha- bitants of all the country to the north of Resilla are uiiable to derive from the land either any thing for sustenance or to pay duty : the nights there are so cold, when the com ripens, that it is often frozen, and irrecoverably lost. The parishes of Liens and lunsila have few hamlets which are not exposed to this calamity. The greater part therefore of the inhabitants of this district, and the parish of Asehle, give themselves up to the care of their cattle, in which consist all their riches ; that is, vmich afibrd subsist^ ence to the cultivator, and duty to the state. From lunsila to the village of Hellan, in the parish of Asehle, we traversed for four miles marshes, woods, and mountains : we followed for some time by water the wind- ings of the river, in the places where there were no falls. Those kinds of channels, where the calm of the waters is not intermpted by any fall, are called in the Nordland language Sehles. Stark is a name give: to the intervals of water where the current is stronger, but not sufficiently rapid to prevent the passage of vessels : those where the waters, without falling, run with sufficient rapidity to carry away every thing, are called Forss : lastly, they give the name of Fall to those where the waters are precipitated, from whatever height they fall. This is a land as much neglected by na- ture, and disr^;arded by man, as that of which the unequal declivity occasions so irrc. VOL.1. ? li I T 354 TRAVF.IJ or P.IIRKVMAI.%1. * gular A course to the waterH, no little niivi^ahlc. Hom' nhould n country be inhnbited, which pri..tnts vi nvMxy difficulticit to thr truvcllc-r? VVc travelled iiljout four njiles, over mx of thiiic schlen, where the water wemn to re- poAC : the Hntt wah that of IiiOHila. Hence wr travelled half u mile by land to the schle of lal, upon which we navigated a quarter of a mile. Afterwards, having trivclUd thrti* quarter;! of a mile by land, wc travelled u fourth by water on the nehle ot Korting ; then r)uc and a half by land, and tliree quarters of a mile on the sehic of Gouhlo. A sni til island whit^h wc meet in the middle of this la»t tichlc separates Angliernianland from Western-Bothnia. We again travelled by land seven eighthd of a mile, then a quarter of a mile on the schle of Alfwets; aOerwanU half a mile by latKi j lastly, we navigated on the sehle of Hellan, to the village of that name. We arrived there in the evening, very mu( h fa- tigued, by a route of about twelve leagues, in which we were obliged to embark and disemlKirk six times in the space of twenty-two hours, passed in the open air, during a continual rain ; for no house is met with in the whole of this road, intersected with deep marshes, high mountains, and extensive countries of gravel and sand. Hellan is two miles and a lialf from the church of Asehle, where we went the next day, as much by foot as by water. The course on these nuites \» directed, as at sea, by the comtMss and map ; not tluit the waters vary as much as the wIikIs, but their dia'ction isoi)liquc and sinuous. The terms north-east and by north, north and by east, should be as fami- liar and as frequent in a journey in Nordland, as they are in the journal of a navigator. Though the province of Asehle be in Lapland, there are no Lapland inhabitants in its southern part : some peasants havr formed in these deserts colonies, which they call Nybvgghes. They reckon twenty-five ; the parish of Asehle contains a part of them : Hellan and Gaffehle arc the most ancient : they have iK'en established nearly fifty years ; the others arc recent. The first traces up even to the reign of Charles the Eleventh. This great monarch, by an ordinance of the twenty-third of September, 1673, exempted from the militia, the lodge, ment of troops, and the poll-tax, all those who would settle in the province of Asehle ; and tliese privileges were confii*med by the states of the kingdom, at the diet of 1720. Each colony only pays, like the Lapland districts, a fixed sum, which never varies with the wealth of the contributors. '1 he richest peasant only pays twenty-one crowns of copper, which amounts to twenty -five livres and four sous of France ; but the greater part only pay three crowns of copper, or three livres and twelve sous. For this price they may possess a land of about twelve miles, or four leagues, in circuit ; and often even any quantity of land they choose. The land indeed is so barren and poor in these countries, that it need not be measured. The exempti(m from service, and the small- ness of the taxes, are the least encouragements which may induce men to come and culti- vate these barren and frozen mounts. The inhabitants of Asehle are large, laborious, active, able in their kind of commerce, and hospitable to strangers: their houses arc tolerably well built, very similar to those of Nordland, except that their walla are not of stone or lime. The province neither aftbrds that material, nor the kind of argil which might be substituted : in two places only IS found a very fine atrgil, of which they make bricks, which serve for building. These people are very comfortable, notwithstanding their little wealth, which consists in their cattle and nets; but this latter resoilrce seldom disappoints their hopes. The river of Anghermanna, which traverses the province, and all the small lakes by which TRAVBU or kiihknmalu. :i55 ;e, se er es its tlie Ittnc! U Intcniccted, furnish a Mifficicnt qimntity of fish to feed the inhabitants, and to sell to strati^vn. A rich colony may posHCss twelve or liftcin <:ows, with their calves, siheip, a horse, and ^oat!i. The hay of thin province is so iMHirishiiifi;, that the cows yield an ahundaiu e of milk three tmie.i a diiy. Kach cow aflonis two |xjunds of Initter, as jjoixl a>» tluii (»f HelhiiiKlu land, which is the best that is catcit in Sweden, and iterhapH it is superior to that of Holland. Thin butter is an object of commerce, and constitutes, with cheese, drietl fish, '>irds, andstonie firs, all the wealth of the country. These provisions serve.to procure, inex« chan^', corn, salt, tobacco, and other objects of consumption. The iK'asants are not much of cultivators : the whole sowing of the year only amounts to three casks of barley and rye. The men and women till the laiuls, and gather in the cropsi in all Nordland. Their scythes equally serve to cut the hay and corn. Tluy mow the grass very short, and close to the ground ; but this labour is slow, and tlu y Urn- in tim« what they giiin in hay. When they employ this scythe to cut the corn, tluy fix a bow to it, which serves to collect the ears together, and to spread them as they mow. But a single night has often cropiied the whole ; and when the colonist rises iu the morning, he finds the grass withered, the corn-curs blemished, his labour lost, and his ho|K's destroyed by the frost, in the middle of summer. It is diHicult to determine the cause of these accideiits. The high latitude, and the neighbourhood of the frozen zone, do not alone produce this extraordinary cold. The Alps and the mountains of Sweden, though much nearer the tropic, have snow all the year. Holland, though farther north than Swisserland, is yet less cold. Even in Nordland there are fotuid, in the midst of the mountains, two parislati, called Nordlian and Sudlian, in which rye and barley are sown, which never freeze. In certain districts a field is frozen by the east wind, while tluit wind does not produce the same effect elsewhere : another field freezes with a west wind, which does not aifect the surrounding fields ; ano- ther freezes by the south wind ; another, in fine, by the north wind. These sudden and unforeseen frosts happen from the end of July to the beginning of August, the hottest part of the year. The cold nights of the summer are accomixmied with ice, which soon melts, because the sun only quits the horizon for a short time, and does not delay, to warm it. Among the reasons assigned for these pernicious phenomena, the t)easants, who com< plain of them, attribute them to the fogs which arise from the marshes, with which the fields are surrounded. As these vapours are not attracted by the course of any water, they fall again about the marshes which have exhaled them ; but this cause, which may aug- ment the cold, does not produce it. Near Solett is observed a field, which often freezes ; while the neighbouring fields, which are surrounded with marshes, do not experience the same misfortune. The corn of Hellan is never frozen, though the lands there are full of marshes. That of Gaffele and Nore are often frozen, though near to a river, which may attract in its course the fq^ of the marshes through which it traverses. The fog arising from rivers and rivulets generally secures the corn from frost. They do not experience this disaster during the cloudy nights ; yet we sometimes see a field situated on the bank of a river freeze sooner than another. These frosts might be attri- buted to the north wind, if, in certain districts, the other winds were not more formi. dable. It may perhaps be said that these fields being sowed every year, the moisture is soon exhausted from a soil naturally barren, and they cannot give sufficient strength to the corn to resist the frost ; but the quantity of cattle which the countrj' feeds furnishes sufficient dung to manure the fields every other year. Though the Imds for the most part are formed of a l)ed of sand, by the means of a thin bed of dung, which is spread from z z 2 356 TRAVELS OF EHRB>'MALM. 1 :i ii; time to time, they afford sufficient nourishment to the corn : I have seen it extremety Ai.'C, and adorned with very large leaves. Tl.us, in order to discover the secret cause o4' these frosts, the baron de Cederhielm and myself proposed to M Elic, inspector of the fishery of pearls, to make continued observations for several years, in diiferv-nt places, on the times and circumstances of ^his destructive phenomenon, which must certainly be the effect oi' a concurrence and comi^i- cation of causes : we advised hirn to observe the position of the fields, the nature of the soil, the state of the weather preceding these unforeseen frosts, and the wind with which they were accompanied. While waiting till the source of the evii may be discovered, in order to find a remedy, I am of opinion that it may arise from the vapour of the acid waters which are in the earth. When this vapour rises in fogs, it dissipates, and occasions no injury; but when it cannot exhale with sufficient strength, it is attracted by the corn, stops there, and blights it in a single night. Near Hell?n, where the com is seldom frozen, the bottom of die soil is of rock, rarely covered wi»h three feet of sand : the moisture of this sand is evaporated during the middle of simmer ; but elsewhere the sand is deep, and without rich land to bind it. Near Gaftclc, and particularly Nore, the marshes are more elevated than the fields ; hence the waters, which are corrupted there, flow from the former to the htter before they evaporate. In fine, the fields near the mountains, from which the snow-water descends, and insen- sibly filters through the sauds, are more subject to frost than the others. Perhaps the scarcity occasioned by this calamity also depends on the quality of the f^?ain : they only sow barley at Asehle, on a tract if land from eight to nine miles in length. Would it not be preferable to sow rye ? This is what a skilful economist should r.wempt : not to mention the advantage arising fi-om a com which makes the best bread, and which keeps better, i ye yields more than barley, and especially resists the cold Ijetter ; it is sowed in autumn ; it has time to shoot strong roots during the winter ; a moderate degree of heat is suifioient in the summer : this corn ripens early, before the return of the frosts of the month of August. At least a trial should be made, by sowing rye and barley ; one crop might supp'}' the failure of the other. For want of these precautions, L,^ l..:quent scarcity experienced by Asehle renders the corn very dear. When v/e pasr •' through it, a cask of barley sold for nearly forty Swedish crowns. On account o'' uii!» d^amess, the inhabitants cannot always eat it ; they therefore have recourse to timT bark of the fir, dried and moulded ; and not to lose ihe habit, they mix it with barley >!o.f, even in abundant years. Were they to change suddenly from a healthy and light fool toche i^se of this bark, their digestion would be injured, and scarcity would occasion plagues and epidemical disorders. Art and pre- caution are necessary to tlie poor inhabitants of the nc-rth, in order to accommodate theniselves to ihe wretched food of their climate ; as they are to the rich nations of the south, to accustom themselves to the use of the Apices and the delicious beverages of Asia and America. But while the tables of our voluptuaries are overloaded with the super- fluities of a foreign world, whole nations have not even one of the necessaries which wc refuse. The Laplandeis is\d Nordlanders might feed on nKlishes and potatoes ; they could make a bread of them much superior in flavour and digestion to that of bark : these roots would thrive in the sands. The minister Forsbei^ has produced some radishe<: with success. 1 ■' ; '> ( i4i TRAVELS OF EHitF.NMALM. 357 he sia sr- The tree from which they take this rind, which affords food to man, is very common and ancient, particularly in the north. The fir reigns in the sands and cold countries, like the cedar on mount Lebanon. Nordland exhibits some of very great age. At th<; distance of a quarter of a mile from the church of Asehle, to the south-west, we cut a fir, and we counted the concentric circles of which the trunk was com]X)sed, in order to determine the difference between the growth of the side of the tree towards the north, and that of the side towards the south. We found that the bulk of this fir, which was of three thousand circles, and consequently of three hundred years, had been formed nearly in the following manner : From the centre we counted, for the first half century, five hundred and seventy-two parts to the south, and five hundred and nine to the north ; for the second half century, three hundred and sixty-eight parts to the south, and three hundred and twenty ■.«• ^ -n to the north ; for the second centur)', six hundred and eighty- five parts to the south, six hundred and nine to the north ; lastly, for the third century, five hundred and seven parts to the south, and four hundred and fifty to the north. The whole diameter of the trunk of a tree three hundred years old, therefore, contained four thousand and twenty-seven parts of our geometrical scale ; tliat is, twenty geometrical inches and nearly an eighth. The soil of this tree was sandy, and covered with moss, as is the whole of the province of Asehle. The inhabitants of Asehle are troubled during the summer by a species of fly, which they call Knort : they are small insects, of a foetid iimell, which seem to form a species, or a middle class, between the fly and gnat : they have black and yellow stripes on the back and legs. They are so numerous, and especially in hot weather, and under a serene sky, that the inhabitants are obliged to protect themselves by a kind of pomatum, a mixture of fat and tar, with which they smear the face ; but the odour is not less insupportable to me n who are not accustomed to it, than to the flies, who always remove from it. The inliabitants also preserve themselves fiom these insects in their houses, by burning every night pieces of a knotty tree, the smoke of which kills them. The last church we meet to the north of Asehle is of wood, very badiv constructed, and more resembling a barn for beasts, than a fold for a christian flock, it was erected under the reign i>f Christina, for the conversion of the Laplanders, and cost six thousand crowns of copper. I can affirm that the architect, whoever he was, could liOt have lost by the undertaking of this edifice. The province of Asehle is so extenNve, and the Laplanders are so far removed from the church, that divine service is only performed once in fifteen days. All the inhabit- ants assemble tt^ther from the Saturday in the even*r. iia the Laplanders, and to divest them of their idolatrous practices. The minister Forsberg, who formerly held this school, is of the same opinion, which apj)ean> to have greater foun- dation, since to the present time the conversion of the Laplanders has only been a scene of fraud and Ij> pocrisy. Infatuated with the customs and opinions of their ancestoi-s, they regard our ceremonies with the same eye that we behold their superstitions. They see no other difference between their idolatry and Christianity, than the protection afforded to the gospel by the government. It may ji'itly be concluded, from their manner of life, their aversion to die Swedes, and especially to the ministers, from the fear they testify at speak- ing of religion, from the habit which they have of agreeing with their superiors on the truths of Christianity, still suspending their offerings to the sacred trees, from the secrecy they all preserve, when they commit actions forbidden among christians. It will cost a great deal of trouble to make them renounce their drums of divmation. They have innu- merable places to conceal them in their woods ind deserts, eternal asylums of supersti- tion. The minister Forsberg broke one of these instruments of their pretended magic, but they soon made others, at little expence. It is not the drums which must be broken, nor the books which must be burnt ; but it is the human mind which must be insensibly freed from its errors, by reason, and especially by the mild laws of a government, bene- ficial to the nation which finds itself subdued. When the people are happy, they do not disturb themselves with idle discussions of tenets, they do not become fanatics for their o» anions. It is the cruel infatuation of forcing them to admit that which they cannot per- suiivle, of imposing silence by punishment ; it is persecution, in a word, which first creates enthusiasts, then martyrs, then sects, then rebels, and finally civil wars. The Laplanders are surprised when we would forbid their drums, which serve them, they say, to direct the winds ; while the Swedes have compasses to direct their course, and mark the progress of time. Notwithstanding, the Laplanders do not entirely rely on their juggling. They are attracted to the religiouu lestivals by the fmrs. Among other merchandise, they bring skins and firs. In exchange for this clothing furnished by nature, they take that which art has manufactured, such as woollen cloths or stuffs. For meats and dried fish they procure tobacco and pipes, salt and pepper. For cords drawn from the roots of trees, they receive hemp, of which they make nets. They sell baskets, and buy kettles, knives, sometimes hatO'iets, more rarely planes or augers. They prefer, before all these tools, brandy or port wine, which they find excellent when mixed with that strong liquor. The Laplanders are unwilling to be paid in copper money, though it is current in the traffic between the Swedes who come from Oumea and the colonists of Asehle ; but they ac- cept, and even seek the silver money. Such is their clownishness, that they have no con- fidence in a supposed value, which only has the stamp of the prince for guarantee. At our departure from Asehle, we took some Laplanders as guides, for we had to ascend the river Anghermanna, with its falls. We met with some of great height, whirh obliged us to convey our boats and crews by land. Sometimes we were compelled to walk two or three miles, to relieve those who rowed, dragged, or forced the boats against the current. The Laplanders reckon the way by journies, and the Nordlanders by miles. From the church of Asehle to the mountains to which we went, th*^ distance is neariy seven miles. During this route, the magnetic needle pointed to tl^ north, north-east, and north-west ; but the most part of the time to the north north-east. The river makes a great many windings, •n'^. ■^<';';\.,:;:;iHr :'>4^j<^^*^-M.i.?J:,fe'^'*f.^ .«i-eVf>}js'>:s^ ';,^\i'iK It was about six in the morning when we arrived at Wolksio. At midnight a thick fog arose, which began to dissipate about four in the morning, and was completely dis- TKAVKL8 OF EIIRENMALM 35y persed by the time we had passed the Forss, or current of Wolksio. We then beheld, on the lake of that name, a kind of rain-bow, a thousand paces from us. The air was calm and serene, the sun brilliant ; and the waters so clear, that we could distinctly sec the gravel, flints, coarse and fine sand, of a brown and gray colour, at the depili oi' two fathoms. At a mile from Wolksio is seen a mountain, Separated from the others. It is a singu- larity, like the phenomenon of the rain-bow seen on the hike in serene weather. VVe crossed this lake at the width of a quarter of a league, and after travelling for about a mile and a half, we arrived at Telt-Sio-Arne. From the parish of Asehle to this last place there are eighteen currents, falls, or sheets of water to cross, in ascending the Anghermanna. This river rises in the mountains of Koultsiofiall and Biorkfiall. It receives the river of Marsfiall, and many small lakes and rivulets ; it even traverses the lakes of Malgomai and Wolksio. It is so increased by the tribute of all these waters, that in many places it is from a quarter of a mile to a league in width. It then glides slowly, and forms, by its dormant waters, what are called Sehles. But in proportion as it grows narrower, it dashes over the obstacles it meets, and falls with so violent a noise, that in calm weatherit may be heard at the distance of two miles. What a country is this ; merely a desert, where are only beheld mountains without cultivation, without any trace of human industry, nor scarcely of life and sensation ; where, even in the season of life, when nature revives, no noise is heard but that of cataracts, which, roar- ing from afar behind hideous rocks, seem to environ the traveller, whom they threaten, sometimes to approach him, sometimes to follow him! Miserable, indeed, if he were alone ; all the horrors of a deluge, all the images of the Styx, with its nine great wind- ings, would assail his trembling soul. Then would he experience those involuntary ^terrors which gave birth to the spectres of superstition, and as if fantastic beings were necessary to assist him to struggle against nature. Man alone, surrounded by dan- ger and objects of terror, beholds the lace of nature in a different view. Every thing ithen becomes a demoni, every thing a deity. He invokes the stone against the roaring * torrent ; as he approaches the source of his fears, they multiply ; his mind is disturbed, 'his knees totter, his eyes roll, all his senses are disordered ; and if he discover not the cause of his fear, his reason for ever sinks into unfathomable obscurity, into everlasting night. : I have seen the peasants of Asehle ascend this river with their boats ; when they ap- proached a rock, land, and draw these light skiffs against the current, with all the cou- rage and adroitness which arise from a long habitude. But they are not equal to the Laplanders in this laborious and difficult art. :. The LaplaiKlers have boats, the keel of which, one fathom long at bottom, extends to two fathoms upwards. It is large, flat, and equally pointed at both ends. The ribs are very narrow. There are three or four of a tolerable length on each side ; they are covered or doubled with fir planks, which have been cut with the hatchet. These planks, two lines thick, are joined with the sinews of the rein-deer, or fastened with ropes from the root of the fir. It will be seen by this description how brittle these little boats are ; a man might break them with his hand ; if he placed his foot on the sides of -the boat, on entering, the timbet would crack. A boat only contains the rower seated at one end, and the passenger at the other, to keep it in equilibrium. A bowl, of the bark of the birch-tree, to bale out the watt r which enters at the joints, cracks, and even •the pores of the wood, two oars, and a hatchet, form the whole cargo of the little ihoat. S60 TRAVELS OF KilRKNMAL.M. But if the boat can only carry two men, one man is sufficient to carry the boat. When a Laplander meets with a water-fall, which he cannot pass by nicanij of his oars, as he does not even iiossess any idea of sails, he puts the bowl of liis little boat on hiti headv passes the oars into two wickeni :ther by natural ctiannsis, forming as many rivers. These lakeN indicate a land rising in plat- forms, disposed one above another, in amphitheatres. They resemble large terraces, where the rain and snow form themselves basons, the waters of which flow out by water-falls, rivulets, or ponds, accon^'ng as the declivity of the liuid is sometimes sud- den, sometimes gentle, or interrupted and bix)ken ofl'. The soil of the lake (^ Wolksio is stony and sandy. Towards the upper extremity of this lake the fir woods liecome rare, and tliose of the pine more numerous; so that near the lake Malkomai scarcely any firs are seen. This was the last lake on which we navigated ; yet we did HUM Bmi IRAVT.LS OF RMRRNMALM. 361 not proceed on it for more than two miks, though it is three and a half in length, with an unequal breadth, varying from a quarUT to a whole mile. It stretches from the north- east to the south-west, and empties it'^ellinto the Anghtrmanna towards the south-west. The bed of this lake, and !♦ '-her/, are the same is all the others. Arriving there, we perceived, at the distance of six miles on the western side, the mountains called Akick-fiall. The heights near the mouth of the lake are sufficiently fertile, as is part of the surrounding land. But the woods are nearly all burned. We felled the largest fir we could find in this place. By the number of circles which appeared from its section, it must have been a hundred and sixty-two years old. Its semidiameter contained thirteen hundred and thirty-one parts of the geometrical scale, or about six iiches three lines and a fourth. The soil in which this tree had grown was stony. The pines of these environs were of a tolerable height, and covered wiUi moss. In these far removed countries from the sun, nature employs ages to produce little. The inhabitants live to a great age, but what a life ! withouf ever feeling the pk'asures of the senses or the i imagination, which yield to the soul a live^/ and solid enjoyment; without experiencing that inward and continual action r.nd re-action, which Wnd men to every thing in nature, by sensation, desire and enterprise ; without any taste, which may attach a being to himself and to those around him. Thus the manners of these people, incloKed by frozen seas and mountains of snow, possess not the least of animation, or of vigour. Society there is dull, monotonous, without passion, without incitement. The inhabitants, like the trees, are almost isolated, though placed by the side of each other. Love has no branches ; friendship no name. They arc perfect strangers to ideas oi" protection, assistance, compassion, beneficence and charity. But, ye senseless beings, who glory in these interesting names, do ye know how much they cost to human nature ; and that those virtues are created at the expence of the vices, crimes and misfortunes of your fellow creatures ? We left the lake Malgomai, and ascended a small rivulet for half a mile north-west, towards Tetsio, where we landed, and left our ixu-ks. We were obliged to perform the remainder of our journey on foot, among the highest mountains. Tlie first district we had to traverse had been set on fire. The soil was sandy, and mixed wkli stonc=. We afterwards entered a wood of very small pines, which ex- tended to the top ot die mountain, a mile and a half distant. These trees were tolerably ft«sh ; most of their branches lay horizontally. They were lower and smaller than th(»e of Asehle. The ir wiM not thrive among pines, it is of too elevated a structure. The small num. ber wfiich is seen of these majestic trees, created to defy the <'^nds of the land and ocean, are of a dwarfish species. But we observed that the smo* tl.tr and more marshy the country was, the greater number of birch-trees and poplars grew, always small and low, with many branches, and few leaves. The birch-trees appeared of two different species ; the one had small leaves, of the ordinary form of this tree : the leaves of the other wMte larger, thicker, more curled, and, being of greater substance, they formed a medium between the ieaves of the birch and those of the gooseberry bush. In these marshy places we also saw some thickets of both the hawtfiorns, but neither of them having any fruit. In these marshes there grows a shrub called Myr-riss ; that is, Moor's- shrub. The branches are strait, without suckers. The wood is strong. Near the root the bark is gray : towards the summit it is of the brown of young^ birch-trees. The leaves are ar- ranged thi«ee by thr«c, very near the branch, and are rotindish, like those of clover. VOL. I. 3 A Ml ,«««k»««^>*^ -^ ■ JB2 TRAVELS OF KIIRBNMALM. 1 !t The soil which produced these woods was partly of rock and partly of stones, co- vered with moss, between which was |x.'rccived a fine sand of a brown colour : the land about the marches we met with in these woods was also a St\nd, among which, from time to time, we perceived a black eaith, formed by putrified saoss. This soil in some pluccs was half a foot thick, in others two feet, and perhaps more ; for we were not al)le to measure it everywhere. The marshes are covered with a prodigious quan^ tity of Hies, which they appear to produce. Thev are in greater numbers in these mountains than in the parish of Asehle, and of a different form. Their body and feet are yellower ; their sting is sharper. Their stings pierce through the cowls of crape, with which the inhabitants in vain cover their faces. They are also more venomous, and commonly leave a black spot on the skin, which becomes a tumour. At the extremity of the wood we found a verdant country, the soil of which was stony. We saw many plants and herbs which were unknown to us ; among others, one, the leaves of which resembled those of the lily of the valley. We also saw many junipers, but very small, and without kernel, of a very deep brown, as if they had been burned. All these observations are not wholly useless, even to the inhabitants of more scutiuvu countries. Everywhere we meet with sandy and barren soils, where grow pines and shi ubs similar to thoae which alone nearly cover all Siberia, Lapland, and the most northern countries. By estimating the quality of the soils, and the nature of the productions which are found in such different climates, we might examine if the soil contributes, still more than the sun, to the generation of plants : whether the abode of the waters of the sea, or the internal structure of the earth, do most determine the disposition of the beds on its surface. The sands of Africa, those of the heaths of Spain and France, {hose of the north of Europe and Asia, are they the same, with respect to grain, colour, iliickness, mixture, vegetable substance ? Nature has done nothing in vain ; her con- templator should observe nothing without reaping benefit. We at length arrived at the foot of the mountain of Rod-fiall. It occupied us an en- tire hour to reach its summit. From the lake of Malgomai, whence we had perceived it, it seemed to supiwrt the heavens. Nevertheless we found this mountain to be of less altitude than any of the surrounding. In Lapland a mountain covered with stones is called a fiall. The mountains which are wholly of rock, an uncommon circumstance, have so many gaps, that they may be regarded as a pile of rocks. The latter are sometimes bare, but oftener covered with a little tnoss, or earth. The mountain of Rod-fiall is curved towards the north, and forms an arch of a circle about the lake of Rodsio. The soil is rich, and overspread with small birch-trees, oziers, and herbs of every kind. The soil of the hills is a white and fine sand ; beneath is a white argil, having no binding earth. If the fountains which issue in great numbers from that mountain did not hinder the corn in the spring from thriving, by the frosts, of which the coolness of the running waters augments the cold, tliis district might support many inhabitants. It is the best we have seen in the whole of this country. Here we meet with a pure black earth, a foot in thickness, with a little mixture of gravel. The declivity of the land is gentle, and stretches sufficiently far for one to walk upright. Pursuing our route we passed by a round mountain, encompassed with stones and marshes. The latter are very common. They might be drained, and prepared for culture by manure, suitable to the productions we would familiarise. The most ele- vated might be turned into fields ; the less elevated into meadows. The Laplanders say, tliat towards Norway sinrlkr kinds have been peopled and cultivated. Those which tkavl:ls uf kiiurnmalm. o63 uc saw might be tilled, if the Laplanders were made to quit their waiideriiiy; life of shep- herds, for the stationary life of tillers ; or if the Swedish colonies were to increase, and extend by degrees to these mountains. It would Ik' imprudent to plant an isolated co- lony here. The construction of houses would be difficult and too expensive, in a place from which the nearest woods of iir are six miles distant. The necessary advances for two or three years would become burthensotne ; to transport cattle by water would U' difficult ; to conduct them by land troublesome. When the colony enlarged, they would jjcrhaps want wood to build new houses, or to inclose fields, or even for firing. 'IVees, which grow more slowly than men, would not assist the wants of cultivation, and might deprive ihc colonists of the fruit of their advances and paia&. The general maxim for the clearing of land is, to do it by degrees, by advancing from all the inhabited places which surround the untilled country. Men should proceed step by step, like nature. The population and culture of a desert must not be com- menced at the 'cntre, but at the circumference. The borders of a hiiith join toiVuiiful lands ; it is there it should be vivified, bv the communication of seeds and the sources of cultivation. Every other method is m vain, and ruinous. The nations of Europe, who were willing to seize on the interior lands of America, have lost their popula- tion and their culture. The English, who have only occupied the sea coasts, ha\'e gathered strength, increased, and enriched themselves. The colonies of the interior will in the end Ix; invaded by those of the extremities. It is because the former are insulated, while the latter are supported by a free communication with their me- tro)x)lis. We travelled two miles more to arrive at the mountain of Kitschewari. Although ii was the middle of August, we walked over sr.ow, with a kind of pattens made of green branches. VVe met with inoi*e ice-houses than could', be wished for, in this season, in the warmest countries of Europe. Here the travellers separated, in order to proceed, some towards the north beyond the mountain, the others towards the south, over an extensive and marshy land. It reaches in the form of a circle for two miles to the south one-fourth west. Many hills of va- rious heights are there observed, covered with some jMiies and bushes. Those who passed beyond the mountain discovered, to the north-east and by east, the western ex- tremity of the lake Malgomai, about three miles from Kitschewari : the two lakes of Lidsio, to the north-east and by north ; to the north, a part of the lake of Koultsio, which the Anghermanna crosses ; to the north north-east the lake of Mai-sio, which com- municates with that of Malgomai. Lidsio is three miles and a half from the mountain ; Koultsio and Marsio are four miles. From the same place are also seen, twelve miles to the north-east, the mountains of Lycksele-fiall ; Mars-fiall, five miles to the north north- east; Fiald-fiall, twelve miles north; Biork-fiall, nine miles to the north-west and by north; Amas-fiall, twelve miles north-west; the mountains of Norway, twenty miles west one- fourth north ; Hammardahls-fiall. eight miles to the west south-west ; Yemptelands-fiall, twelve miles to the south-west and by south; Block-fiall, four miles to the south-east; and, lastly, Arksio, fourteen miles to the south-west: and many other mountains, which, on ac- count of their smallness, have no name, although it does not secure them from being co- vered with snow nearly the whole of the year. In the midst of this frightful compass, the traveller feels the superiority of nature over human strength. In other countries we find it yield to the industry of man, which changes the face of the earth. The sea even afibrds a passage to man through its tempests, iuid its rocks. Bui here the mountains forbid him fi-om afar to approach, and their summits, bristled with Bakes of ice, oppose to his au- dacity a barrier, more formidable than the fires which formerly burned on a mountain of Arabia. The feet of volcanoes are inhabited ; the mountains of Norway and Lapland 3 A 2 364 TRAVP.LS OK RIIUP.NMALM. can scarcely be factd. The Alps am crossed ; but it is to pass into the beautiFiil und delightful couuti y ol" Italy. The north defends itself by the horror of its pros|x;ct, und itu climate ; but mountains of greater height than those of the pole have never ar- rested tlu: pi )grebs of the conquerors, who, for these ten centuries, have disputed the richest country of Europe. Germany, France, and Spain, have ravaged by turns this same It;ily, which is now the prey of those nations, of which it was formerly the mis- iress. It will no d Dear surnrising, that mounUiins may be seen which are more tlian forty leagues > d, and that consequently objects may be discovered at a greater distance on laud liian at sea. But it must be observed, that this disbmcc does not lie in a direct line, and that we reckon on the length of the path, which, descending from the summit of the mountains into deep vallies, by sinuosities and inflections, renders it of much greater length than it appears to the sight. Besides, the place from which the eye embraces so vast an horizon is considerably above the level of tne sea. The distance is very great from Hernosand, which is on the shore of the gulf of Bothnia, to tlic moun- tain of Kittschevari. We proceed from the one to the other, ascending the course of the Anghermanna by cascades, always incrcasing in height from south to north. Thus the foot of the mountain of Rod-fiall must be half a league higher than Hernosand. It occupies more than an hour to ascend from the foot of Kittschevari to its summit. From the foot of that of Rod-fiall, there are three mountains equally high to ascend. Now, if from the height of a mast, which is only sixty feet, we can see to a much greater distance in the sea than from the deck of a vessel ; from the summit of the mountain of Kittschevari, or Rod-fiall, we should see the summit of anoUier mountain, which is at the distance of twenty miles. Arrived at the mountain of Swans, which constitutes part of that of Kittschevari, we pitched our tent, near a hut of Laplanders. The northern path had a much greater quon. tity of snow tlian the southern, and it thence extended a mile farther. Besides the moun- tains, we saw between the lakes, in the environs of Kittschevari and Mars- fiali, hills over- spread with pines. These hills and mountains form no chains. They are all separated, as if they had arisen from as many different lakes, which had undermined their shores, and flowed out on alt sides. On the hills we meet M'ith many springs, and in the vallies with small lakes, or large marshes, from which issue rivulets of considerable size, which discharge them- selves in^o the inferior lakes. It would appear, that in these countries die mountains are die work of the snows, which, tarrying for a length of time, and melting slowly, dig, tear up, and overthrow Uie surface of the earth, where they have not a free and quick passage^ In more southern countries, the rivers cajry along to the sea all the waters which &1I either in rain or snow. In the north, the blocks of ice break the earth and rocks, where the snow undermines in the end the land which it covers. Between the gaps of the rocks there is always snow, which the Asehlese call Groub- bar, and which no doubt produces the springs that are met with at the summit. The snow fallen in winter melts in the spring, and, filtering between the sand and stones, pierces and flows in rivulets through the clefts of the rocks ; so many principles of ruin^ which concur to the formadon of these isolated mountains. I have found on the highest some handfuls of black earth, collected here and there between the flints. I confess that I do not see any reason for this phenomenon, unless the snow contains this earth, and leaves it on the surface in filtering through the sands. This conjecture will not appear strange to those, who lielieve that rain water may even be converted into earth. i TBAVKLH OK l'.linKNIVIAI.>r. 365 The sand of these mountnins is white, sometimes ns fine as dust ; and in humid wea- ther it la of the consistence of urgil. The j^rcatcr part of the rocks are of sand- stone. Those which ure found scattered in the country become nearly as hard as Hint, no doubt by the action of the air and wind. Some, which appear to have the nature of hme-stdne, are not of less hardness than the others. Some appear of alabaster, and are harder than flint. In thiii hideous < ountry are also seen a s|)cctes of hematite, or blood-stone, black and gray slate, ;uid many other stones, some of which resemble iron ore, but are only flints iuid quartz : there are many of these substances among the sand- stones. The highest mountains of the north do not admit of trees. The snow and ice little accord with verdure. But on the lowest, as well ;is in the vallies, we here and there meet with tirs. We cut down the largest we sav and by the circles of the vegetation we judged it to be two hundred and forty-six years old. Notwithstanding it was only thiriy-two feet in height, its diameter near the root was only eighteen hundred and fifty parts of our geometrical scale, that is, nine inches and three lines. All its branches were bent towards the south, and inclined to the earth. This direction, no doubt, arises trom the snow, which the north wind drives towards the south. The top of this tree was (Xjinted, and its trunk unfurnished with branches : we observed that it had grown m spite of the seasons and climate ; similar to a vessel disabled, and without rig- ging, ciist upon a desert shore by tempests and currents. About this wild pine were birch-trees and pop!;irs, small, knotty, and near!) dl withered. These trees perish by die excess of cold, as soon as they rise above the heig^ht of eighteen feel. They have the fate of the Laplanders, whom nature does not per- mit to grow to the ordinary height of tnan> But, in the place of lofty trees, we meet with junipers of a brown colour, utid diniil'ozjtrij. The latter are remarkable by a singular difference in the sex. The Icavts oj llie nmle ozier are green, smooth, and shining; those of the female ozier are gray and roUgli. If the bark of the male ozier lie scraped with a knife, the raspings rest niblr lint. Tne Laplanders ornament the cradles of (lii.ir children with it, anniHl jl jiito ozier ia too hard for such »'eiint' I hell Hlir)es. But the bark of the fe- male ceive themselves, when rhi )' give the liu (ii/ailllt jiii (LJne would imagine that men de- /lielr own sex to these female trees, jjear, when they are planted near a i; ''r : M' i\i'm'. kinds of trees which I I necessary to oziei's for But we observe them wiili (k/ii((^i wjiii li ih ^ male ozier in an isolated place ; while wt i <■ are assembled together withoiil nrim Mnii ! fruitfulness, as it is useful to men. ^ Although these shmbs are very near the eflHIl the mountain of Bwans, andtlitte thiji ' ho vvej country. In the southern districts, tile ()ei|) o great quantity in the fields watt red by the Aiigji in its course the berries which iall into it near lis spring. The soil of the hills where the j)liics grow is nearly every where sandy. A little black earth is sometimes perceived between the stones. Grass is also seen in those parts exposed to the south. Thi colour of the grass becomes greener as we descend. This district produces in partituilar wild sorrel and other plants, which the Laplanders eat, or mince and mix with their milk, when they cook it. When the weather is serene, the mountain of Swans exhales from its summit, and particularly from the fountains whifh are seen to issue from it, a thick mist, which ob- scures the sun even in full da^, and which is insensibly converted into clouds. But and almost creeping, they increase on , that It may be said to be their proper ijiis tree seldom ripens. It grows in manna. This river, no doubt, disperses i 1*1 i J()(} IHATIXH Oti' IWIUKNMALM. when the wcutlicr is ^^loumy, this mist only rises from the middle of the declivity, about us high us the place where we werecncutn|Kd between two Lapland huts. It wus so near us, that one of our fellow-truvellers walked for a whole ni^ht in this nust without being able to get out of it, nor to perceive the fire wc had purposely kindled, to serve him as a light- house. In the time of these mists, which commence in Augiitt, the cold is as sharp in this dis- trict as it is at Stockholm in the beginning of October. The distance of three or foin* degrees of latitude should not occasion so great a difference in the elfccts of the climate. We may therefore attribute the premature rigour of thii» cold to the northerly wind, which l)lows from the mountain of Swans. The most neighbouring summit to this latter appear d very near us, and yet the rein- deer which we perceived running seemed so small, that wc could scarcely discern a flock of sixty. How should we measure the distance betwee) these two mountains ? We hud no trigonometrical instrument. The mountain was too steep, to judge of its disUmcc by the number of paces. We could only estimate it by the power of the voice, or soimd. I therefore went there, and the baron Cederhielm remuincd near the tent. This dis- tance appeared to us about two hundred fathoms. From the sight alone, I should have judged it of a hundred and fifty ; but the tent appciu-ed lo mc at a greater distance, than the summit where I was situated appeared to those who observed me from the tent. This is a phenomenon in optics, arising, no doubt from the dift'ercnce in the projection of light, or in the reflection of the rays. I was not less surprised at the thirst which is experienced on these mountains, while it is not felt in the climate. Nevertheless the waters are very clear, tasteless, and commonly produced from the melting of the snow, which should quench the thirst, unless Uie salts and the nitjre with which they abound produce the contrary cflect. From the lake of Malgomai wc had Ijeheld all the countr)' to which cultivation migi extend. It apix:ared to iis impossible to be carried farther. Thus we resolved to walk back, after having waited three days in vain for clear weather. The mist, which the little heat remaining occasioned to exhale about these mountains covered with fresh snow, deprived us of the sight of the sun and stars. It was time to return to the abode of light and the living. Nature only oftered to our observation the prospect of an eternal winter. It threatened to envelope us in its frosts, if ^ve delayed to resume a route, which even in the summer had caused us great dilficulty to pursue. The lakes were about to be covered with ice ; the trace of the paths eflaced ; the Laplanders buried in their huts. Navigators are still happy, when they only behold sky and water; but to wander among snow and clouds, unable to advance, or only to advance to be bewildered ; to have rivers to descend by frequent cataracts, between points of rocks, from which are detached flakes of ice? sufficient to break a small boat to piece&.. or to sink it ; this was the situation that awaited us, if we made the smallest delay. We hastened, with the satisfaction of having observed, not lands to conquer, but countries to till, a country suf- ficiently extensive to jxiople, to cultivate ; in fine, to render worthy of the innocence of its inhabitants. A short summary of their manners shall complete the picture of their dreary region. Such is the weakness of the human mind, that it can only arrive at truth through a croud of errors. It is only by reading the different descriptions which travellers have made of the form and manners of a people, that we can obtain a perfect knowledge. These pictures differ according to the observers. A traveller almost every where mea- sures man by his stature, and judges of his manners by hb education. But those It TRAVr.LS 01 F.HIIENMALM. 3fl7 In whrtw understnmlinpfn arc more extended, and their mituls more enlarged, arc not the most ditficiilt to teco^piize inuii in Uie stavagc Luplundcr. Very liinitcd mindii uloiic find in liim the liruie. The Laplanders are strong, nnd of a toleruhlc stature. Their limbs are coarse, thelf huir long and thick, face small, their forehead strait, the beurd smooth, their breast and shoulders broad, u/id their legs ctimmonly bent. The women, on the contrary, have small limbs, huir oflittlc thickness, and narrow breasts. 'I'hc men are incontinent, without being vicious, and the women extremel) licentious; that is to say, that both scarcely know pleasure nor * rime in love; and us they almost attach no moral idea to the intercourse of the svs's, they make no virtue of continence. But the Lapland women would be capable of inspiring it, by the intirmities widi which nature s(xms to have armed them against the attempts ofag. gressors. The only advantage which thev may possess over women of other nations is, of being ignorant of the alteration of fashion in dress ; if, however, it is a nu rit in a weak and slender sex to be free of those frivolous tastes, which jj;ive it so much importance. One would say, that they are afraid of pleasing, lest they should have cause to blush at the flight of the conqueror, at the moment of triumph. 'I'hey |)retend to have preserved the attire of ancient times ; yet I do not Ix'lieve it, nor think that fhe Laplanders have a sufficient resemblance to the Israelites to be descended from them, us some would presuade them. It is more reasonable to think that transmigrations of na- tions proceed fron\ the frozen zone to the torrid, than from the equator towards the pole. A nation has scarcely any occasion to borrow its cu«>toms from another ; at least all the oust' -MS which relate to the first wants of life. The Laplanders live and dress as the dima permits. They use no luien cloth ; this only accf)rds with warm countries. All their loi • ign luxurv consists in a very coarse woollen cloth. They ha\e caps of it, which they t)order on all the '>eams wirh a lace of a richer or more shinmg cloth. They make' their doublet of ii , it is a great coat with long sleeves, wide about the neck, and open at tlie breast. Yet thty cover the skin with u stomacher : in the bad weather of summer this piece of cloth is covered with an old furred robe ; in the winter with a warmer fur. In the severe cold < » that long season, they wear caps or cloiiks of skin. The Laplanders of 'he woods in summer wear shoes made of the bark of birch ; the Laplanders of the m* 'untains in winter hav shoes of rein-deer skin. The trees and the rein-deer are tlieir resource for clothing and food. They have neither in abundance ; but they are seldom in dread of want. Careful to ])rovide subsistence for themselves, they do not expect it from public provisions and magazines, which may suddenly raise ja price, or totally fail. Tney are not subject to scarcity or famine, before the grana> riei. or tables of opulence, which overflow with superfluiu They are not seen to V. finder pale and dishtartened in the provinces, about castles id parks, of which the misters make parade at court, or in the-capital, of gold, silver, diamonds, and sumptuous dresses of various colours, where the people might reclaim its l> »od, and the labourer his reward. The dress of the Lapland women is nearly the same with that of ail the savage women of the north, short and tight, differing litde from that of the men. Ex^rnme want in re- spect of clothing makes no distinction of sexes, except by concealmc tt; and if they conceal them in the north, it is because the cold will not suffer nudity. Nevertheless, even in Lapland, the women are willing to distinguish themselves, at least in their .tcad-dress 368 rmvf.i.Ji Of KiinnNMAi.M. by a fillet of woollen cloth, fur want uf rihhonsi of bilk, and a light border of wool, io- M«'atl ol' laer. 'I'ht jlutllinf^ of the LaplandtTs are no wnv HuiKrior to their clonthing. They arc of three kinds, known by the name of Kator. 'f'he nrst i"* a sort of tent, com|KVied ufnolcs diii|)()M.(l in a eircular form ; it Im covered widi branches of the pine, eloth, or hides ; so that the rain eaniu^t penetrate. A lioir contrived at the top serves at the same time for ( hinniey and wind(Av. Hut ttu transparency of the skins which inclose the tent coni|M;nHates for the little day-light afl'orded by the ui)erture of the roof. The door is a frame, composed of two upright and six cross bars, to which is attached asqiuirc piece of cloth, yet it is so narrow tnat it can only be passed sideways. But they seldom (piit their tents, and never enter in u crowd. The second species of tent is of n more oblong fonn, but round. It consists of four poles, a little bent at the top, and joined together by u scpiare frame. In all other re- s|)ects it re!>embles the former. The third kind is the most comm(xlious, and l)cst suits the more sociable Laplanders. Every family builds one of these dwellings. The greater part have them near the church of Asehle, to pass the Sunday, 'i'hesc cabins, or barracks, arc formed of four partitions of planks thrust into the earth, six feet in height, covered with a sort of roof, composed of very short poles ; supporting green turf and the bark of the birch. The door, also made of planks, is small, and serves for a window. The hearth, always in the middl^', consists of a flat and round stone, upon which they place wood, and the smoke arising from it departs through the hole in the roof. In this house all the Laplanders sleep together, men and women, children and fathers, married or single. But the crimes and debauchery which accompany both misery and opulence in civilized countsies never enter into these little habitations. The climate prevents the temptation of licentiousness ; ignorance and simplicity have not even the idea. The household utensils consist of pots of brass, and seldom of iron ; wooden plates and spoons. Men who do not tarry in one place for more than three weeks should not have many goods to remove. A chain furnished with hooks, where they hang their pots and other kitchen furniture; some chests secured by plates of iron, a flint, boats and nets; these form all the luggage they have to transjwrt on their sledges. With so small a retinue, they do not feiu- the meeting of robbers, nor the pursuit of creditors, nor the visit of extortioners. The subsistence and manner of life vary among the Laplanders according to the soil they inhabit. The Laplanders of the woods, such as those of the province of Asehle, who retire in winter to the forests of pine trees, where their rein deer feed on the moss of the trees ; these Laplanders mostly live by fishing. The waters of that region, and the river Anghermanna in particular, furnish them with perch, trout, and pike. In the failure of these fish, 4he lakes have others, and each lake has some which are peculijir to it. In general the fish are finer and fatter, hot not so large, in the lakes. Should the goodness of these fish be attributed to the purity of the waters, to the length of the winters during which the fry are not disturbed, to the great numlier of fisheries, which not jxirmitting the Laplander to travel over them all in a year, the fish are left to increase and fatten ? It is besides a custom among the Laplanders and Swedish colonists to pay regard to the time of spawning, and to leave the fisheries at rest, like the lands. Every father of a family has a space allotted for fishing; but this space comprchcnds so many lakes, that the year is closed before he returns to the first in which he fished. A certain policy finds its way amongst men in the most savage state, whether hunters or m w IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) fe < CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut canadien de microreproductions historiques M~ TUAVELS Of EllHESMALSl. V J69 fishemiaii. They have no jccasion for kings, philosophers, nor pontiffs, in order to Hve in peace, and to observe those rules of justice, on which depends the safety of individuals. Nature alone dictates to them, and her voice is sufficient. They commonly make use of nets called Ryssior, which they stretch at the mouth of the rivulets. They have four sorts, which bear :he name of four species of fish: the first, which is called a Mort net (a species of Gudgeon) has its meshes two fingers wide ; the second, which is the Pike net, has its meshes four lingers wide ; the third, which is called a Suk net, has its meshes four inches wide ; and the fourth, which is called a Skaft net, nearly resembles the pike net. They have, besides, nets stretched upon poles : they have also nets for winter. The poles or sticks of these first arc a little longer and thinner than those of the nets of Stockholni ; some are only an inch in diameter, being twelve fathoms in length. The reason of this little thickness is, that the fishermen, being always in small bodies, they would not be able to carry nor manage them, if they were larger. The use of the large net may be said to be unknown in the province of Asehle ; they are not necessary in waters so limpid as those of these fisheries. The Laplanders eat some of these fish as soon as they are taken out of the water, others they dry for the winter, and the remainder they sell, to pay the impost. In the spring they kill a great quantity of birds, which they never dress, but dry, after having stripped them of their feathers : I have eaten of them, and the flavour was not unpleasant. During the autumn the Laplanders of the woods search for the caves or dens of the bears, and in the winter they hunt them, armed with firelocks and stakes : they have dogs, which they send to rouse the bear from his den. A Laplander will often alone attack a bear, and the animal seldom escapes. When our soldiers or officers shall thus dare to brave a bear in his den, they will only possess the courage of the Laplander. Those people are therefore not so pusillanimous, or perhaps it is only in the chace of men. But it is what they are unacquainted with, and the preparations of a camp under arms or tents, and the regular and measured march of men and horses, covered with gold or steel, pluross of feathers floating in the air, the dust and sweat of war, heaps of ensigns and trophies, and decorations, and pompous and magnificent titles, which only conceal at the bottom carnage, wounds, blood ; the shrieks, convulsions, palpita- tions often thousand innocents slaughtered on one another in the space of an hour, by twenty thousand assassins, to appease the jealousy of a man, or the caprice of a woman. At least the Laplander eats the flesh of the bear he has killed ; he sells the skin, if he does not make use of it for clothing himself. This bear is the enemy of the rein-deer of Lapland; and for want of deer he will attack men, if extremely pressed by hunger. Nature has decreed war between the bear and the Laplander ; but does she compel entire nations to leave their fields untilled, in order to go and desolate those of a distant country ; to put to the sword a neighbouring nation, whose only crime is a wish to en- joy its own rights ; to exterminate, as we have lately seen in Servia, thousands of colo- nists, transplanted at great expence to a desert country, which they had cultivated ; to cross two wide seas, in order to spread fire and devastation to the two extremities of Europe ? AVhatever be the latter, their fate occasions more horror than the life of the former excites pity. The Laplanders of the woods live on fish ; those of the mountains on their rein-deer. The milk of these animals is so rich, that mixed with three- fourths water it is still as thick a;s the milk of the cow. We preserved some in a bottle for the length of seventy-two hours, and we found it sufficiently sweet to boil and drink. A reb-deer gives each time hiUf a bottle of milk. When they wonld milk the mothers, they lead the fawns or young to pasturage, where they remain till noon unmuzzled: VOL. I. 3 b I] I* ' it' it 370 1'UAV1:L8 UF LIIRKNMALM. they arc then led back to the fuld, and al^out five in the afternoon they are re-conducted to pasturage ; at night-time they re-enter their habitation, and the young are muzzled, to prevent their exhausting the milk destined for the support of men. These animals arc so gentle, that I think they mi^ht dispense with shutting them up in folds : they never leave them before the dog of their shepherd, and till they hear the bell of the rein-deer, which is brought before, in order to serve as guide ; but then they all rush out together, disix.*rsing themselves in every direction. In very hot summers they graze till midnight, and repose during the excessive heat : they are at that time encompassed \vith fire, to protect them from the flies : such are the rein-deer of Asehle, in the more northern parts of Lapland they are tamed, and are more difficult to manage. The Laplanders immediately boil part of the milk they draw : they leave the remain- der till it becomes of sufficient consistency, to be preserved as a provision for winter. In that season they eat it boiled in water : the taste, though strong, is not disagreeable ; but it requires tin^e to be accustomed to it. The life of the Laplanders, whether they inhabit the woods in the plains, or encamp on the mountains, is really severe and pitiful ; but it is yet preferable to that of the Grecnlanders, who have only the choice of ihe ice of the sea and that of the land ; who have not even cattle for their companions, and for support in their misery. It is better than the life of the people of Siberia, who only see the arrival of soldiers to oppress them, or disgraced courtiers, whose fall announces a frightful power, and spreads consternation m the deserts. This needy and wandering life of the Laplanders is no way uneasy or distressing to them : they do not possess the talent of writing ; but the liberty of talking remains, for they have only to complain of the evils of nature. All equally subject to her power, and almost equally independent of that of man, they have at least no fear of being punished for their virtues, of being persecuted for their opinions, or being betrayed by their good faith. Society amongst them does not require those discretions, which occasion a public idolatry of the fashionable vices : they are not reduced to the necessity of choosing between clamour and disdain, between obstacles which repel talents, and the oppression which follows obscurity : they do not perceive any trace of that desire to injure, which wearies and disheartens tne best intentions. Among them the sentiments of the honest are not stifled by the wants of competency : in a word, they receive all their benefits and ail their evils fix)m the hands of nature ; and have neither to fear the unforeseen blows of fate, which bring the ind^;ent to punish- ment, nor the invasions of war, nor the thunderbolt ofdespotism, which bometimes falls upon opulence : they are only acquainted with the vicissitudes and injuries of seasons, less destructive to man than the vicissitudes and injuries of fortune : in fine, the exemp- tion from our pains indemnifies them with usury for the privation from our pleasures. They are seldom exposed to absolute want. The Laplanders of the mountains, in particular, find on the heights lakes abounding in fish. They never spread their nets without drawing in them several species offish, but particularly of red fish, which they call Rodfish. As this species is difierent in Lapland from many other known elsewhere under the name of red fish, I shall here subjoin a description of it. They took one in our presence ; it was only nine inches long, though it sometimes may be two feet in length. This fish, in general, has the form of the trout. On each side are two broad streaks, very distinct, of a dusky colour, and crossing each other. The first, formed by little points, situated v^ near one another, and of a dark green, commences near to the head, and proceeds along die tmck bone, terminating about the middle of the tail. The second streak, commencing at the fore part of the fin, which is situated on the back, extends to betow the belly, where it is of the cohmr if TKAVKr.S OF r.IIUl'.XMAI.M. ,)71 the our of a lemon : a little beyond is seen a third streuk, shorter, and of the same colour, but not so strong. The back is dyed like that of a small marbled perch ; and the belly is of » fire colour, which varies in the two great divisions made on each side, by the two streaks which extend to the right and left along the body. This colour is more dusky on the fore part of the back, and clearer towards the other extremity. The edge near the head is of the same colour as the back ; but it becomes lighter as it approaches the fin, where the colour of the pale fire changes by degrees about the navel into a yellowish colour. This fish, covered with spots like the trout, also resembles it by the form of the head, and the parts composing it : nevertheless, the eyes are larger, and a little more elevated, the bone of the upper jaw shorter, and that of the lower longer. Above the jaw it is of a dusky green. The palate is of a blood colour ; it is divided into four parts ; of which the first has twenty -two teeth, and each of the others twenty. The colour of the fins is variable, like that of the body of the fish ; they have each fourteen joints. The prickles of the back are twelve in number, very pointed, and of a dusky green ; the last is double the length of the first. Those beneath the belly are of a bright yellow in front ; towards the middle of a deep bro\vn, the tint of which is singular ; and towards! the exti^mity of a fire colour ; there are nine on each side. This fish feeds on the dead flies which fall into the water. Near a cascade we saw many little fish seizing on a dead fly ; but I cannot afiirm that they were red fish. For the rest, similar descriptions can only interest professed naturalists, by their in- stinct, to keep a register oi every thing. But when a botanist describes all the leaves of a plant, with an exactness driving his readers to despair, a traveller may be allowed to reckon the spots and fins of a fish. Lapland possesses so few animals and terrestrial plants, that the admirers of natural history are reduced to ichthyology, for the food of their curiosity, as the Laplanders are to fish, for the greatest resource of their suste> nance. Nevertheless they have, besides their fisheries, green plants which they eat, such as clover. Where tro cattle feed on moss, the shepherds must be contented with herbs, The rein-deer are so gentle and quiet, that the women guard and lead them. The care of their children and flocks, which they raise and feed at the same time, constitutes their principal occupation. A mother conducts her rein-deer, having her child at her breast ; she suckles her children, while making the young fawns graze. These innocent beings can sleep together without danger. The shepherdess sometimes beholds them all skip, ping and playing* together, without dread of accident. If tears flow, thev are tears of joy. Her mind is not distressed, nor her heart torn, by the afllicting idea, that she may one day behold this child of her breast torn from her arms, to shed m battle the blood he has drawn from her. The Laplanders of the mountains subsist more on their rein-deer, and those of the woods more on fish. Though the latter, living nearer to cultivated and populous coun- tries, have less distance to travel than the former to traffic with their provisions, they are nevertheless more indigent. I am inclined to attribute their misery to brandy : for these two years they have purchased it at a great price; and, as I have been informed, a crown was ^ven last summer for a glass of brandy. Perhaps it may have been imagined that this was the means of giving them a dislike to it, but it has only served to impoverish them. When a people are accustomed to things which please their taste and senses, but particulariy to strong liquors, they will not renounce them. It is a snare to g^ve them these tastes ; but it is a cruelty to make them pay an exorbitant price, when they have become accustomed to them. - 3 2 ■it ' 372 TRAVELS Or KHRRVMALM. The Laplanders regard the nassion they have tiiken for brandy as a misfortune. But when we represented to them the danger of this custom, and how useless was this foreign liquor to them, they answered, that without brundy they could have no wives, in fact, the first proposition of marriage is made with a glass of brandy in the liand. It is in joy this bargain is concluded ; for they sell a woman like a rein-deer, and pay for her from five to nuie crowns. This would yet be too much, if the man was a true pur- chaser. The less a woman costs, the more valuable she becomes : at this rate, a Lap- land woman must be an inestimable treasure. But those are ideas taken in a wc id, where delicacy is an clement of select souls. The Laplanders are not sufficiently corrupted to have occasion for these refmements. The sublimity of manners and sentiment supposes a society depraved, where virtue requires heroism to resist contagion ; where we are only great, elevated, singular, because all are little, base, and common. Whether it be a received prejudice, an agreement, or love of preference, it is said that the Laphuiders have more dislike than inclination for promiscuousness in the inter- course with their women. They do not unite themselves to one another accidentally, like their flocks : they even respect the degrees of consanguinity, which are so religious- ly observed among civilised nations, in or Jer to unite again, by the ties of love and blood, families which have been divided by property. If the relations were always to marry among one another, each lace, remaining foreign to all the others, would forma distinct society, and discord would arise from this social state. It is necessary for families to intermix, in order that fortunes may circulate, interests unite, and that prejudices and manners may be softened. The Hebrews were commanded to marry in their own tribe; but it was {jcrhaps a means of encouraging them all to population. Twelve tribes among the Jews were more certain of agrei.>ing, than the two classes of plebeians and patricians among the Romans. Between these two factions nothing could bring back the equili- brium; among twelve classes it maintained itself: all with emulation counterbalanced each other, and each was of sufficient weight to prevent the predominance of any one. Thus the circulation of blood from family to family is an infallible guarantee for the peace of states. We do not hate beforehand a family into which we may one day enter. We cease to despise a race to which we may be united. We support without spleen a dis- tinction of rank and honour, from which we are not excluded without hope, especially in those empires where labour leads to fortune, and fortune to honour. In this passage there are only hasty and sudden revolutions, which clash all conditions, when a man finds himself suddenly transported by money or favour from the level of the crowd to the summit of greatness. Among the Laplanders every one i^ of the common class, and this natural lowness does not excite the envy of any body : the order of peasants is the only one. There are not sufficient riches in Lapland to establish a large body of nobility, a numerous and pow- erful clergy, as in Sweden. Their drums of divination do not create much noise, and those of war are almost unknown. In fine, the little fruitfulness of the Laplanders exempts them from possessing of pri- vileged conditions, supreme honours, burthensome and brilliant titles. They are suffi- ciently limited to be devoid of ambition, and only know how to defend their life against cold and want, without attacking that of other men. They have few children, and per- haps love them the better. A father rejoices to have a son, because he has not to fear for him those whims, and even virtues, which may equally conduct him to misfortune. He never says to himself, while receiving him from the breast of a mother into his paternal arms, perhaps in my old age I shall expire on the wheel, accused of having assassinated this son, whose misfortunes or superstition shall have armed his hands against his own life. 1 •» UAVKLS OF KIIUFNMALM. 373 As scon as a child is bRni, he is wrapped, without any swaddling clothes, in a piece of woollen cloth, and placed in a sort of wooden case, wide at one extremity and narrow at the other, a cradle much resembling a coflin. The bottom is concave, and the sides are only raised to the level of the child. But to prevent his falling out, two hides are passed over his body, and fastened sufficiently tight. These cradles arc suspended in the tents, exposed to the smoke ; two cords are attached to rock the children, tor they rock them: this custom begins to appear prejudicial to us j but the example of savages instructed by nature seems to justify it. Besides, the hammocks of the Negroes, and the suspen- ded cradles of the Laplanders, have no occasion for the hand of a nurse to lull the chil- dren to sleep. The natural oscillation which they have supplies this attention. It is even more gentle and natural than the jolting of a cradle placed on a plane, and which is agitated by a motion too irregular no doubt not to be sometimes hurtful, or per- niciuus. In Lapland we may judge of the education of the children from the manners of their fathers. In Europe this would often be a slender inference. The first education of youth differs much more among us, than among the Laplanders, from the remainder of life ; and it perhaps is not to our advantage. In the age of innocence we imbibe errors; in the age of knowledge we imbibe vices. Those alone who have no education arc nearly equally unhappy in all the stages of life ; too enlightened not to feel its evils, too limited to overcome them. It is not thus with the Laplanders. Before I saw these people, I had pictured them to myself as a stupid race. I have had great reason to be undeceived. They have received from nature the same advantages of body and mind as the rest of men ; but to the greater part of the Lap- landers these benefits are lost. An excessive love of liberty which they possess, so as not to wish for any empire among themselves, a profound ignorance maintained by the prejudices of their education, remove all idea of a reasonable society. They love better to abide in the misery, in which they are born, than to release themselves from it by labour. To the most delicious dishes they would prefer the liberty of eating the rind of the pine, or clover, to satisfy their appetite. They are not acquainted with fixed hours for repast or sleep. To lie on the hard and dry earth, between thick nishes, and bear or rein-deer skins, better suits their ungovernable character, than a bed of the softest down, which they only enter and leave at times regulated by custom or business. The less soft their bed is, the less they remain attached to it. They have no dread of meeting with the anxiety of watching, or of the next day ; the wakefulness which Hums and parches ; the vapours of high living or of voluptuousness. They forget their hardships, where so many others encounter them. Independence in their opinion is true happiness. Jealous to excess of every thing which may injure this sovereign wealth of their life, their imagination is very lively and sensible, though in a cold climate. Hence arise the extacies of their pretended magicians, the ability of these people in counterfeiting the sounds of the voice, the gestures and motions of those who speak to tliem. Equally timid with their rein-deer, and ready to flee at the least noise, their propensity to superstition, their horror at the idea of servi- tude and constraint, their easily being alarmed, and fainting at the slightest accident, at% all indications of a sensibility of organs, not commonly observed' among the savages of the north. PerhapS in this respect they resemble certain ferocious animals, who are startled at every thing with which they are unacquainted ; as if fear was the first senti- ment of every creature that is careful of its preservation. t: After the character of the Laplanders, it may be judged im{^sible to subdue them by rigour, but easy to vrin them by gentle means. When they are convinced of the 374 TRVVELS OF FJIRENMALAf. l)encvolcncc ol" those who sjx^ak, they willingly listen, and readily conceive. If they were more industrious, their condition would become eiusier, they would increase their money both for the means of living, and for paying the impost. Though it is so small as not to exceed ten copper crowns for the richest Laplander and all his family, they find it exorbitant. Yet the province of Aselile only contains fifty-three inhabitants subject to the tax. Hence wc perceive what revenues Sweden may derive from Lap. land. My fellow traveller, the baron of Cederhiclm, has endeavoured to encourage the Laplanders to quit the misery, in which their natural inertness retains them. He had carried half a cask of rye, with the intention of trying whether the corn would thrive in this country, of which he had conceived the most sanguuie hopes. But finding the difficulty of attempting the execution himself, ?.nd unwilling to quit Lapland, without having contributed at least to some happy trial for its improvement, he searched for a soil proper for the experiment he had at heart. He imagined that he saw some lands of sufiicient goodness in the parts where they had established foids of rein-deer and sheep. He therefore had the com sowed, in his presence, by some Laplanders, to whom he had gratuitously given it, on condition that tney should inform him of the success of his experiment. They could very promptly execute every thing which was directed to them, and they set about it with tliat ardour inspired by a project, the utility of which is conceived. Their docility was not unrewarded, and the bi\ron de Cederhielm has since informed me that these Laplanders, having come to the fair of Koll, had assured him of ihe good success of his rye. Industry alone is wanting to this people, in order to render them happy ; for they |X)ssess few vices, particularly those injurious to society. Compelled for ever to wander, and not always being able to transport the whole of their provisions, they place them in magazines erected m the midst of the woods, with four stakes supporting a roof. These magazines continue open, and, notwithstanding, the provisions there placed, sheU tered from the injuries of the weather, are scarcely ever taken a^vay. If ui^nt necessity do sometimes prompt a Laplander to steal, it is only to appease his hunger ; he eats in these magazines whatever he chooses, but never carries any thing away. In fine, the Laplanders, humane and charitable towarcU the poor, live together in good understanding. Far from accusing one another of their bad actions, they are careful to conceal faults, and the guilty, m order to save them fram the rigour of the laws. This is a consequence of that national spirit, which a people subjected to a foreign dominion nearly always preserves, by a secret revolt against lawj, or masters, which are not of their choice. Here I conclude the relation of my travels into Nordland and Lapland. I have written it as much for my own instruction, as with the intention of acquitting myself to the academy of a duty, which the sentiments of my heart impose. With more leisure I should have added to this work other particulars. But, happily, my occupations have spared my readers from great weariness. If some errors have escaped my attention and my sincerity, I presume to hope that those who are sufficiendy enlightened to perceive them will have tne indulgence to pardon them. I shall finish these observations by a reflection, which they Iiave more than once sug- gested to me. I have not been able to think on the wise constitution of my native country, without feeling how advantageous it would be to it, were its citizens to apply themselves to the knowledge of a country, in die prosperity of which they possess so much interest. Our youth are all inflamed with the desire of travelling into foreign countries. But what do they go to seek ? Perhqps vices unknown in theirs : taste ^d TRAVELS OP EIIRENMALM. those amongst us, whom m-akc»Mtv^^^\u^T'^^r''"'''f '''"''''''■ i^"™ country, anS who willing to rSa'n™ rlct^rfS 1 • , n '"™^ '^'"" ""'•• '"'i™ that country wh..rc the fL^ tave^"i„rd~^^^^ I"''" '»"' the famous names of the Rhine the OdtV nS S v' .1 ■ ''««'!«■'"> """'"on to been dyed with our blood Bnf'.r^l,T? .h /u X'^"}'' """ '*>«' •">»<: '00 loiiR NiouroV and Severn IrmS ,n,i k"!!, °i *' Anghermaima. the Iiidal, and th? steriliry whic^he%a„W,S■^l«f»^!;H^^^ ">' ""S '^ <>f 'he cold and tie., na'ture posseie. hef,e«S,3,d her SS, "" '"""""""^ ^« "^" '" S'^" so?S Z'^rrb oK^'K^/T"''''^'' r"' 5' »'*« of "■» kingdom, feast a permamS ^Jbil^rOe^trtol^pa^L tZli'" ^."•^'T ' P""^ »' treaty of We«tnh«1i» «lui.j.„ I j t' P™panng by |the.r victories t le celebrated if £ mo« wffir 'of h!? k?„ ^ b"!^ P^ribed limits to Turkey and t^ Ru^to triumph B^u,dL,ted«„«J„^?t\'\™,!"^^ '■™'"f ""^ ca«er of iS ■nonaSj,. have irrii^etXrfe^k of Ae^,aL^l,T™'^ "nd reverses of that nor its nrrvmorWir T-u^ ^ • „ ?* ^"*^ nation, it has never recovered its o-lorv Wish this sprine of ite vklour rh^?^* however, by agnculture, that it can hope toesta- them, and chiWrei w^rU^v of thl ^ . ^™^ ,}^^ "» go to seek successors to late thb land.^ n^3l L^ wSr* '^-f'^i andlSothnia. Let us stimu! selves; and If Mo^" Tcld^th JX^^^n^^^^^ remember vour- be the greatest object^ v™.rJ!^K:/ * T"^. *° J^onQuer and subjugate, let it always would Ke Euio^!^ ^ "' '"'*'"*°" "^ ''"'* ^^^^^ *^'^' ^i'** wfich your enemiS "'. ■; ''-■' *■.,(' 'r.' ' («♦ -* > i^l- V ri^UV' -•' i:!':^)i'> li.i .,t,-!.," ,, ,4'j ,.■>. , , , '. '< I 376 VN ACCOUNT OF THK LAPLANDERS OF FINMARK, THEIR LANGUAGE, MAN- NKHS, AND RELIGION, BY KNUU LEEMS, PKOlhSSUR OF THE LAl'LANOIC, WITH THE NOTES O^" GUNNER, HISHOF OF DHONTHEIMj AND A THi.ATlbE, DY JESSEN, on the PAGAN RELIGION OF THE FINS AND LAPLANDEUS* [NEWLY TRANSLATKO.] CHAP. I OF THE ORIGIN OF THE LAPLAND NATION. Whence they have drawn the origin of their nation the Laplanders themselves arc uitogcthcr ignorant ; nor is it an easy matter to conjecture whence they are de- rived. In an inland of the government of SuiKlmocrs, culled Gidschoe, not very far from the gulf of Aalesunda, is a statue I 6aw myself, when young, marked with verses of the following import : ** Fiiidus blew his brother, because it was not agreed upon, between them, how they should go into the northern part of the kingdom, where his descendants had multiplied themselves to an immense degree. From him are descended all those Normans, who qjl themselves Fins." But admitting, as some historians maintain, it should be ever so clear, that the said Findus had been the great grandfather of that very valiant Norman, so celebrated in the annals of history, Findus, the son of Arno, and of the family of Gidschoe, yet is it hardly probable that the same should be the founder of the Laplanders ; for the Lap- landers, whom wc vulgarly call Fins, diifer altogether from the other inhabitants of Norway, and their language is ns different from that of the maritime Fins, inhabiting huts, as from the Laplanders, who live in huts on the mountains ; and has no more resemblance to the common language of Norway, than the Arabic has to the Latin. With the ancient Scythians the Laplanders hold some affinity, for what historians relate of them perfectly corresponds, such as clothing themselves from the skins of wild beasts; their inhabiting, without regard to any fixed or settled abuu , the wild and rough parts of the country, the fickleness with which they change, with their wives and children, from place to place ; their frequent use of animal food, and neglect of the culture of the soil. In all these customs thty agree with the Laplanders, using just the same mode of life. So that, if we cannot altogether conclude, yet it is fair to infer, that this nation is a branch of the ancient Scythians. What connection may be between the language of each nation, the learned, read in these matters, may discern. Thunder, which in the Lapland tongue is called Diermes, the Scythians called Tarami. Between the Laplanders and ancient Israelites a certain similitude is observed. The Jews, in general, have black hair, so have man^ of the Laplanders. The Jews, like them, are of a low stature, and affix to the extremities of their gannents, by divine precept, phylacteries ; the Laplanders are accustomed to sew to the borders of theirs certain bandages or fillets, which, in the chapter of the clothing of the Laplanders, I have shewn in many places. Saturday, the Jewish sabbath, the Laplanders, by horrid superstitions, formerly kept holy in solemn rituals. Psalmody, which the Jews attend to in their synagogues, diflers little, if you hear the tune, from the modulations of the Laplanders. The Jews polluted the sacrifices of their true God, which the Laplanders did also by * Copenhagen, 1 7#7, quarto, in the Danish and Latin Lang^ges. The Notes and Treatise are of little consequence. AtCOrXT OK DAKIIflll I.APLANO HV Lt;K»^^ 577 their oft'cringn to idols, coiiMimiiig the flesh themselves, and con»ccratin^ to their fulsc god the bare lM)ncs alone. 1 lint the I -^raeliteH had rurmcrly erected statues uiul monuments of stone, und had paid to them divine honour and religious veneration, tliere is no doubt, (or so Ood himself speaks totlicm : Make not to yourself idols, noi a graven image, nor place up a fif^ured stone in your land, that you may adore it, be. cause I am the Lord your God ; that the Laplanders were formerly guilty of this crime, from the notoriety and ubimdancc of proofs, WfMjId be needless to demon- strate. It was impious among the Jews tr) raise up altars of hewn htones ; the sto.ies which the Laplanders consecrated with religious worship were rude, and fashioned by no workmansnip. Men performed the offices of booking among the Jews ; tijc simie became a custom among the Laplanders, as is shewn in the chapter on their meat and drink. Some of the precepts concerning women labouring imder monthly infirmities, laid down in the Jewish laws, are observed by die Laplanders, who hold a woman for that time, and in that condition, in a state of impurity. From all these it is sufficienti) manifest, thnf the Laplanders agree in customs with the early Hebrew race, under a va- ne* ' of comparisons ; yet it docs not follow that they owe to them their origin. That the Laplanders had formerly made one people with the Fins of Sweden, or, as otherwise called, Finlands, is u common opinion, and everywhere adopted ; and that as well from certain words common to each nation, as from other circumstances not underserving of credit. But when I grant that the Laplanders had of old made one nation with the Finlands, yet it appears fair and just to me, for the purpose of esta- blishing some difference between nations not little disagreeing in language nnd customs at this day, to call by one common name, Laplanders, those who inhabit on the coast of Finmark and Norland, pasturing their sheep and cows, like the rest of the Norwe- gians, OS well as those who wander with their rein.deer and tents over the mountains, and who constitute, with the inhabitants of the coast, as above mentioned, one and the same nation, agreeing in language, in dress, and customs ; especially when this nation, for some ages, had been distmguished by this name. Nor do I ever remember to havo heard that any of them ever took this name amiss but the Fins of Sweden, or inhabit tants of Finland, who feel themselves hurt by it, if any one happened to call an inhabi- tant of Finmark a Fin, contending that he should be called a Laplander, and that the name of Fin, as a more honourable appellation, belonged peculiarly to him. Led then by these reasons, I shall call them everywhere in this History Lappones, Laplanders, kiule CHAP. II OF THE LAPLAND LANGUAGE. The Lapland tongue seems to stand detached and obviously different from all other languages, except the Finnish, with which it holds some affinity and analogy, yet not so much as the Danish idiom holds with the German. This language possesses, as I have already shewn, in the preface of the Lapland Grammar I have published, certain peculiarities in common with the Hebrew, but I dare not be bold enough to assert, that It derives its origin from this language. In the said preface I have quoted also certain words, which seem to be derived from a Greek or Latin origin, but thence it little fol- lows that they were pure Greek and Latin words thus adopted into the language ; for they nught have been vernacular, not foreign. And though this language contains not a few words akin to the Swedish, Danish, or what may be said, with more truth and propriety, to the Norwegian idiom, yet in most words it so far recedes from these said VOL. I. 3 c I 378 ACCUUMT OP DANISH LAPLAND BY LCKMft. lun^niagcs, that ifnich, uh'mk hi«i own dinlcct, sthould H{)cak his own language, tlie one cuukl not iiiukrMaiul the uthcr. But tills lungtiagt' to thin duy has l)ccn irjcctrd to that dcgivc, that it in little known or eultivatid by the Norwegians them.->eives, tlu: neighlxHirs uf the Laplanders, to say nothing of other iKUions more remote, thongh it is thought not less deserving of cultivation than other languages estahlislied through the gloix', and tiich us if duly cuU tivated would t)ceonie distinguished by many excellencies, as having the means ol' re- commending itself by its genius, and u certaui conciseness of phrase, us u whole period, which in the Danish is expressed by u circuit of words, in the Lanlund lunguage is ex- pressed by n single one ; for cxuni[4e, my smull loaf, in the Lupland, is Laibatzhium. The m/ : of die diminutive Atz and the pronoun Am, mine, being joined to laibc, a loaf. But the whole genius and character of this language I lutve so clearly explained and laid down in iiie Lapland Grammar, lately published by me, thut u few examples will be sufficient, I ho|)c, for my present purpose. In the Laplund lunguage the interchange of consonants taken place between the b nnd p, b aiul m, f und v, wtiich are labials ; between the pulatiuls g and k ; between the dentals s iuul z ; between the linguuls d und n, d and t, uitd between the lubial f and the palatiul letter k. The letters gn united in one are expressed by a nasal sound. In the pr munciation of many words, a certain aspiration of breath, with a hissing sound, is observed. The letter d is sometimes pronounced with this aspiration, and there arc certain dipthongs of difficult pronunciation. The vowel v seldom occurs. As to what belongs to accent or tone, among the innumerable Lapland words I have met with, I have not found one that is n^arked fbr an elevation of the voice. There is not a great number of proverbs in Uiis language ! but so numerous are the diminutives, with which it abounds and recommends itself, that I know of none equal to it. The Dnnish word Camcrat, a companion, in the Lapland is expressed by two words, Pusse vcelje ; for when a Laplander salutes a Norwegian peasant, he speaks to him in these kind words. Passe veelje, that is, my friend, my companion, though in strictness it may be holy brodier } if a woman, his manner is usually, rasse Oaabba ! literally, holy sister. The rcin.deer that arc castrated are in highest estimation among the Laplanders, as &ur|)assing the rest of their kind in size and fatness, and as of the greatest use to their owners. Hence the expression, Haerge Yetz, a castrated rein-deer itself I by which eulogy they do not in common honour any one, unless he is esteemed worthy of the highest praise. A Lapland lictor, or, if it sound better, a tribune of the country people, in Norwegian, Lensmand, whose name was John Peterson, when somewhat puffed up with himself, and disposed to brag, was used to say, Haerge Zhionvga ; what a glorious thing is a gelded rein- deer! On a child-bearing woman near her time, they usually say ; Nisson lae kietzhiembei- which, faithfully translated, is, the woman is in the days of inspection : by which viin; form of expression doubtlessly is signified, that the woman is in that condition and time, that she should both carefully look to herself, and that she stood in the greatest need of the attention of others. Speaking of the adages in use among the Lnplanders, I cannot pass by unnoticed an expression familiar to the Norwegian peasants inhabiting Finmark, and chiefly made use of when they profess to lament the condition and misfortunes of others ; and if he may be a |)erson of very distinguished rank and of very ample fortune, and of the greatest dignity, whose fall they lament, yet do they not hesitate to testify their gri ^1' for him in these words : Beiste staffur ; that is, poor beast 1 by which expression, thou^a ACOOVNT OK DANlNll I.APi.ANU nv i RP.MM. 370 of an kdc he Ithc nouikVui^ cxlrcmtly liarsli uixl full ofruHlicity, yet tluv nican to express how much thiy urc ufVcctcd and moved hy hin uiiluippy lot and coiulitioii CMAIV III OF THE CtNlUU OF THE I,M'LANl)F.«S i TIIEIU VIIITUES AND VICES 'I'lIK tliildrcii of the Laplandcrji arc very brawny in the face, as well as in other parts of iIk: Innly, yet this* bruwniness decreases with their years. The nation in ^e- neral is of u dark and swarthy complex i(in, short hair, iTfje mouth, hollow cheeks, U)u\r chin, waterish eyes, the defUixion of which is |.:.. ily to l)c ascribed to the nature of their climate, partly to th.' excessive smoke with which they are infested in dieir tents und huts, partly to the snow which drifts itself into the eyes of travellers, who pass the moimtains about the tempestuous season of their winter, and partly to be ascril)ed to their looking on entire plains and i. ountains whitened with snow, whence it seldom haj)pens, on their returning from luiniing the rein-deer, that they arc not almost de. prived of the use of sight for at leat ome days. It has been related to us by certain writers, but of no authority, that the Laplanders had coarse rough skins, like wild beasts. Another writer, also of weak credit, has not scrupled to assert that the Laplanders had but one eye, und ♦•'"♦. placed in the centre of the forehead. Opinions, which, w ith other ridiculous faoics, arc most properly ex- ploded. There are others, too, wlin do not hesitate to afHrm, that a certam slrc»ng smell is naturally in the Lanhuiders ; and to this assertion, though avowedly false, some have incautiously g'ven their belief. I, on my part, do not deny that the Laplanders smell very strong, but this very strong smell I do noi assign to the nature of them, more than to that of other »ncn, when it is obviously clear that that smell is produced from no other cause but from the clothing of this people, stained and greased through by the constant smoke of their huts, and by the oil squeezed from the fat of fish. The generality of the Laplanders arc short of stature, but of amazing strength. A hardy race, capable of fatigue and cold, beyond the belief of any man ; in confirma- tion of which I shall deem it sufficient to relate, that when, I was curate at Altcn, in the Western Finmark, a certain Lapland woman, on the fifth day after her lying-in, about Christmas, travelled over those mountains, covered with a constant snow, to mc, begging that I would introduce her ciuly and afker the forms of our rites into our church. The Highland Laplanders can Ixar the greatest extremity of cold ; and the maritime along the coast the most intolerable heat, which, in their huts (owing to the fire having no vent, the duct through which the smoke should pass being closed up, bums them almost to death. And as the Laplanders, by their own nature and habits, are hardy and laborious, so even, as we observed, vulgar medicines, and those elsewhere of no repute, are suf- ficient to repel diseases and restore health. Though the tribe of doctors may laugh, yet it is so ; and the experience of many years, experience that does not deceive, has confirmed it For all poweiful and beneficent Nature has so providently and wisely ordained all things, that what is of no account and common, in the opinit/h of some men, can furnish the most essential benefit to the indigent and afflicted in those places, where more costly and excellent medicines are not to be had. And for this reason, nothing is more ac ceptable, nothing more agreeable can happen to a Laplander, than for any jierson to make him a present of a small bit of the root of nicotiun, o. a few grains of pepper, or some such trifling thing. 3 c 2 380 ACCOUNT OF DANISH LAPLAND HY LERM8. They arc furnished with an amazing and extraordinary agility of body, for a very great niimbei of them can be compact<.d into the smallest space, and one man brought so close upon another, by means of his feet being placed with art under his seat, so that all may sit down closely and compactly together. They travel over the very highest mountains by the swiftest speed, and faster than thoughc. By a certain wooden machine, of an oblong figure, fastened to their feet, commonly called wooden sandals, they are carried with such rapidity over the highest mountains, through the steepest hills, making no use of a staff, which, in the midst of their course, they hang carelessly and negligently from their shoulder, that the winds whiz about their cars, and their hair stands an end. Yet, notwithstanding the celerity of their course, should you throw a ball, or any thing else, before the runner, in the midst of his speed, inchnpg his body, he instantly overtakes it, and picks it up. In> fants can no sooner walk, than ihcy make for the hills, and there, on foot, after they have put on their sandalt., arc borne through the declivities ; to this exercise, from their earliest years, they are accustomed. By their rein-deer they are borne, with an incredible velocity, not only over plains, and o])cn fields, but up acclivities and precipices of mountains, and, while driving, shift the reins with such readiness from side to side of the animal, as scarcely to be perceived. Those who inhabit the sea coast know the management of boats to such a degree of dexterity, that they would not yield to the best and most experienced seamen in this art. This great agility of body, in my opinion, is partly natural to this people, and partly acquired, by the frequent consuiaptiun of oil which is got from the fat of the fish, to which from their very cradle they are accustomed. In wood and horn they have the art of forming, with a common utensil, by the inhabitants named (Taelle Kniv) various figures, and with a certain natural sagacity. Hence a variety of vases, bowls, cups, &c. are made. They fashion their own vehicles, the parts of which are so well adapted to each other, so nicely fitted, as scarcely to suffer a drop of water to pass through them ; they make too, from horns, spoons, ornamented with various resemblances of wreaths and flowers. See chapter the fourteenth, concer- ning the workmanship of the Laplanders. Among the women are also found some, who are not ignorant of the tuming.art, or the the art of chiseling. But the ingenuity of this sex principally is exerted in sewing to- gether belts, and making purses, \nih tin filaments interwoven in them. As they are al- so very skilful in throwing the javelin, they ibrmerly made use of the bow and arrow, now they use muskets and bullets, with which they kill birds and beasts. The invention of the said Peter Nicolaus, of whom further in chapter the seventeenth, concerning sports, Sec. &c. there is a full account of the Laplanders, in which it has been laid down and argued, how much they excel in the art ofthrowing the javelin. Among the virtues of the Laplanders, the knowledge of the true God deservedly holds the first place, which they have obtained to in no small or idle degree. Before the goverment of the august Frederic the Fourth the Laplanders were inveloped in more than common darkness. He, in addition to his other regal and glorious insti- tutions for promoting the conversion of mankind, by which this most worthy prince ac- quired for himself immortal praise, instituted a mission, continued and promoted by his son Christian the Sixth, his grandson Frederic the Fifth, and his great grandson Christian the Seventh, our lord and king, with the same happy auspices of the Divine Being, and the glory of his name, and the true felicity of the subjects of his realm, and with a zeal, for which we can never return due praise, but by imploring the Divine good- ^ ACCOUNT OF DANISH LAPLAND BY LEEMft. 381 ness to bless and shower on his reign continued prosperity. For to say nothing ol" this state of darkness in the religious adoration of idols, formerly celebrated in this na- tion, with the greatest superstition, almost all were ignorant, or had very little knowledge of the divine essence, of the benefit and of the will of the true God, united in the blessed Trinity. The knowledge of the letters of the alphabet was one of the distinctions of learning, and he who knew them was considered as eminently learned. As an exam- ple of the hardened ignorance under which this miserable nation then laboured, I shall just mention, that when a Laplander from the bay of Porsanger was asked the manner m which Christ ascended into Heaven, he answered, on two stones of marble. The poor miserable fellow happened to hear something of the tables of the decalogue of Mount Sinai, but what they referred to he was ignorant. But those times of ignorance, praise be to God, the Father of knowledge, and to his august race of kings, who have so powerfully and happily dispelled it, have passed av/ay ; and the Laplanders, enlightened by the holy doctrines of the Evangelists, are willing and ready, either with, or even without book, by the aid of memory alone, to answer all, who inquire on the reasonableness of hope, to the utmost of their ability. In the tract in which my mission is described, not a few are to be found, v/ho faithfully retained in memory the whole catechism, a portion of the history of the passion of Jesus Christ, with some of the Psalms of David. There was one who could recite thirty-six whole psalms from memory ; and, what may excite admiration, an old man, of the name of Niels Kistrand, whom the Laplanders in their common language called Nikke Kokko-gedde (Niels they express by Nikke, and the place where he lives, the Norwegians by Kis- trand, they call Kokko-gedde) above seventy, learned by heart the first three parts of the catechism, when he never knew the form of the alphabet, nor, till then, had ever learn- ed any thing by memory. It is now thirty-eight years since I was missionary among the Laplanders ; after so g^at a lapse of time, a faithful discharge of the duties of a minister of the word of God does not leave me to doubt, when accompanied with so large a portion of Divine goodness, but a much greater progress in the salutary know- ledge of the true God is made, especially when the missionaries shall have acquired a knowledge of the language of that nation, which by all means should be done, if they mean to undertake, mr the happiness and advantage of the Laplanders, their religious instruction. If they do not, the miserable men, to whom they preach, will hear nothing but empty sound and unmeaning words. For what numbers, among the Laplanders, especially of the female sex, are found, who do not understand a single word of common Norwegian language. And the most of the men, especially such as live along the coast, can manage, from daily intercourse and habit with the Norwegians, the inhabitants of this region, their domestic and secular affairs in a manner in Danish, or Norwegian ; yet it by no means follows, that they shoukl succeed in sacred things, and that they there- fore comprehend and turn to their benefit the Divine truths, delivered in sermons, in catechetical institutions in the Danish, as they would in their own vernacular language. And lience the people themselves freely and sensi Jy confess, that they draw much greater instruction from discourses and catechisms in the Lapland language, and that they are more agreeably and more strongly afiected, than they are by those discourses which are composed in the Danish. Whilst among the Laplanders in the office of missionary, it was a custom with me to preach and examine them in the Lapland language ; at the same time I gave them chapters of the Evangelists to be learned, explaining to them also hymns, that were to be sung in stated prayers, morning and evening, on the Lord's day, in the said language. Afterwards, by the appdntment and indulgence of my most potent sovereign, being ! 382 ACCOUNT OF DANISH LAPLAND UY LEEMti. preferred to the office of pastor of a congregation of Alten, in the Western I'inmurk, which was made up of Norwegian, Lapland, and Swedish auditors, I preached one time in Danish, at another in Lapland, just as the audience seemed to recjuire, addressing the Laplander and the Norwegian each in his own peculiar language. The offices of abso- lution, betrothings, nuptials, the introduction of women afttr child-bearing, 1 adminis- tered to the Laplanders, always in their own |]eculiar language. And as the Laplanders, as already observed, have made no inconsiderable progress in the knowledge of religion, so do they hold it in the greatest veneration. For notwith« standing the public performance of singing, of preaching, and examination, can seldom be finished in less than three hours, yet all of them, should the cold be as intense as pos- sible, sit attentive, in tents, rent and full of chinks, bare-headed, in the deepest devotion, silence, and veneration, listening to the word of God. They hold in the highest honour and veneration die professors of religion. They re- ceive their doctor or divine instructor with reverence and great affection, addressing him Buorre Atzhie, that is, good father ; they rise to him, and assign the most honourable place in the inn. They place before him the most costly and excellent things they have ; as the milk of the rein-deer, hardened into a consistence, cheese, flesh, the tongue and marrow of the said animal. They return their best thanks for any religious office he performs among them, making use of this form, Kutos ednak ibmel sanest ; that b| thanks for the word of God. A great many, even in the absence of the missionary, though on their journey, do not neglect a solemn attention to prayer, morning and evening. There are some also, who at private devotion instruct their children and the rest of the family. Nor is it sufficient for them, merely to have learned faithfully the word of God, unless they also exemplify the force and efficacy of it in a life worthy of a Christian. And hence it is, that no oath, no curse, is ever heard amon^ them, but rather the indignation of the Norwegians, execrating those addicted to this crime. Their holy sabbaths seldom or ever do they violate, they are naturally nuld in temj^r, and very fond of peace, so as even hardly ever to come to words and blows. Most continent too in their h»hits, for during the space of four years, that I discharged the duty of missionary amuug the Laplanders of the parishes of Kiollcfiord and Kielvig, not a single child was bom out of wedlock ; and for the whole six years of my office at Alten, only one. They refrain with modesty from the marriage of relations ; theft is very rarely committed among them. During the whole of my time engaged as missionary among them, I never lost the least thing, but every thing remained without lock and key, packed and untouched. It is a habit with them, not to touch a crumb of food, without devoutly blessing it first hi this form, Jesusatzh sivned, Uiat i3, O Jesus sanctify ! It is much to the praise of the Lapland nation, diat strolling beggars are very seldom seen there. £ach pauper keeps himself in his ovim hut, to be examined and suf^rted by the other inhabitants of the parish : when in the other parts of Norway, and where you would expect better provision from the law in the management of paupers, you find va- grants of this sort, and sometimes in herds together. The Laplanders, like the rest of mankind, have their faults, but they are few, and seldom occur ; among which I name drunkenness, to which some are addicted, and fraud in their dealings, which the following instance shews : In the spring of the year there are found in the rein-deer little worms between the skin, short but thick, called gnormak, which gnaw into and perforate the hide of the animal ; and hence it arises that the hides of rein-deer killed about the spring, vitiated by the said worms, yield much in value and price to the hides of the same animal killed in the summer or autumn. To ACCOUXT OF DAXISII LAPLAND BY LEEM9. 383 remedy this defect, and to prevail on the purchaser, the dishonest Laplander, in order to conceal it, cunningly covers over the little holes in the hide that is eaten through. CHAP. IV OF THE CLOTHING OF THE LAPLANDERS. A CERTAIN >vriter has related to us, that the Laplanders wore cloathing of gold and silver ornaments. Another writer, of no better faith, confidently asserts, that theii' apparel consbted of the skins of sea-calves and bears, and that the whole body was co- vered over from head to heel as with a sack. A third writer has left it upon record, that the women of this nation wear ornaments made from the dried entrails of wild beasts ; which accounts, from their very air of romance, refute themselves. The men wear on their heads tall caps, not unlike a sugar-loaf. Grcat numbers of tliis sort are made out of red cloth, called Kersey, consisting of four parts or segments, broad at bottom, but narrowing to a point at top. On every hem where there is a join- ing, a very thin slip of cloth, kersey, of a yellov colour, is seen in such a manner, that the beholder thinks he sees four yellow fillets, from the lowest rim of the cap to its top : on the top of which is displayed a crest made from pieces of party coloured cloth, with a bordering from the skin of the otter, drawn about the lower part. In some caps the said bordering before and behind has a narrow form, which kind of covering, Niudne Kapperak, a covering for the nose, is so named in the Laplind language. I remember once to have seen a poor Laplander with a cap made from the dressed skin of a salmon ; it was well nigh white coloured, marked with squares, resem- bling scales of fish which had been thrown off. The cap in which the men go hunting, or wear in pasturing their tame rein-deer, is called Rivok. A small aperture is in the front, but the breast, shoulders, and part of the back, is covered by it ; neither is it fastened over the bosom by belt, button, or any other ligature, but fits close. In the fi'ont of the cap is a plate or covering, in Lapland called Zhialbme-raft. Cravats are very seldom worn by the men, and if worn, so scanty and short are they, tliat they come round the neck but once ; and this is the reason why the neck is usually exposed naked, and without covering, to the inclemency of their cold. The tunic, or inner garment of the Laplander, called Tork, is made of sheep skin, neither sheared nor dressed, the hairy part being turned in. On the upper part of the tunic is a stiff high collar, made firom kersey, or some other cloth, artificially variegated with party-coloured threads. The tunic, as the shirt, is, downwards, an entire and con- tinued piece, but upwards open, where i^ covers the breast, and if made after the fashion and condition of the nation, is rather elegant and costly ; a bordering goes round that opening, of kersey, or some such cloth, the edge of which is trimmed with a fillet made from the skin of the^ otter. On the left side are slender bandages ; but the right is orna- mented, especially in the womens garments, with gold and silver tassels. Their sleeves, in like manner, have this edging to them, made from kersey, or some such cloth, on the extremity of which is a fillet from the skin of the otter. The lowest border is tacked round with a fringe, from the same cloth as the fringes on the bosom and on the sleeves ; and as the hairy side is always turned in, as observed, it follows that the hair is every where seen to hang below the extremities of their garments. Shirts are very little worn either by the Laplanders ; but the tunic or inner garment, just now described, b next to the body, and supplies the place of the shirt. .384 ACCOUNT OF DANISH LAPLAND BY LEBM9. Cloaks, Avhich the men wear, are made either from thick cloth, commonly called Badmel, or from kersey, or of the hides of their full grown rein.deer, or from the young of the same animal, of a gray colour. Cloaks from tlie cloth badmel are in Luplund called Gaggcs-Kafte ; which also, as the tunics of which I made mention, arc made with a stift' collar, covering the whole neok to the shoulders, ornamented with a -/ariety of coloured threads, for the disdnfetioii-'dr ^e wearer. And as the tunic, made from sheep skin, in the form of a riiirt, is enore from betdw^ and open in the bosom, and trimmed with kersey, or some such doich, it dbea not agree widi oki cloak in the same manner. Over each shoulder is a slip ofclcHhi which is eKherplaih or jtiu^ -coloured, of kersey, or some other cloth of a varied oolourr>,Tbe4lq^|i: Extremity » embellishad with a fringe, adorned and diversified withvj^l^eadiaCdiffi^ colours, dfled in i«aplai^d Luskuldac. Under the neck is a button, j|;;^^<^08e the aperture of the doak. CIdaks' of kersey, or made even of other cloth, are 'Called Kersey*Kafte and Ladde-Kafle,'J|i the Lapland language. -. - ji,^:^ ' /^ '; Garments, of this kind, like tt^i^ cloak i^sti^^^ aitrmade frori)^ a very coarse cloth, called Badmel ; but if entiwp^V^ iityi^ebt part, opctli in the breii$t, \vith a very narrow fringe coming rouiid thatlp^ueei llfa^ ar^ finfshm the cOMN^.^f^tl^ cIcKi|;,r ij|^ trim^nij^ come round the sleeves, and a s^ collar ah|>^ '($b, necli) vari^pited withf«osom a little leathern bag, called Nivsak-Gierdo, where th^y put up a tinder-box, which they arc never without, and other commodities, of which they make daily use. In Finmark, the cold, which is the most severe imaginable, prevails in winter ; for, to pass over other instances, it will be to my purpose to men^n that the lakes and rivers are so frozen up witli cold, that the ice has bt<^i]ux>wil JO incnease two ells and a half in thickness. It is not undeserving of note, thfl Jcli o( itjki^li fl]^9re (KMidensed by the cold than when covered with snow : for fronai^^ iAc^fl^t^t^ei^ kept, as it were, from its attack, and defended against ^ikclcmpXty ^o ^s pervading and almost unusually felt degree of coMhess i«>to be ascnbed Ittpj^ the inhabi- tants of Finmark clothing themselves with the l^t\s of beasts. v ; f < The cloak made from the ski^ oi^^ ieiti^i|)eer, tvhen n-own^,^k< called in Lapland Paesk. It is made from tb6 skjui '^f i^ j^«iale, which the T^drwea shaggy side bein^ turned but,.li«iii9h jjnyjii'tiie .cloak a horrid and u( kind of garment isnotasothere^6^p(^^th6b^ but like a veil, nearly to the neck. About the liecWiShflL iKntier made from the shs which the Laplanders cfOl li^.I^|£^ extremity of which is a friihll tafl||^||nrae Mfewo small shreds very small into very little pi^<;ea : tnk,|ibb^^^ the pu- cloak. It is omamente d too;' p the above gbrments, with a hi^. the ears, made out of the undi^sed hide of the mn-deer, tis i$, the Laplanders use as a mantle r for if on their mflaritime e happens, they should be sprinkled ^th the:brin^ ic^^ sea they roll themselves instantly in iM sno#,^thk' ^ i^fts, sol may by this means be extracted. < ; The mountain Laplander, for his comfort, abd Simle, the Bviook. This "and of a piece <;>f the hide, , on the ^oths, cut ning the lair, mounting up to iQ!5M|k;itself^ This |i>^;itirequemly )botn(f on shore ^ the garment, mmt ^jm^Ad on his jour. ,*x/fTr r.T ^"/i fii$A iih-iii'ii m ■>-:. ^- ■ ■;r:V ^ • ■lift' .'« •'..•♦« ^.W'-* •■■''■ t'<2ftt»4n Art'" - > ■ .:; !|'. .;■», ' ■ .."^ VI it ■ •.- >lt l^i . \.'t)> ff .( ','•''■' '' ■ <■'' .'S' ( 'J, . .'•' 'I-f^'V 4 •«'■ '1 -^ "i-. •t-Sj.ia ,^ 4 i»r^ ''^1 ■ ■ <■' . '.i . :■ ■■■ ' ■'1 ■"••a ■tt, — > '■■■ -"^^i^'-^' •' ■ /"-H,..v-' ■!.. \.JL; . ■ .n).^.ilLJi.-ik i ACCOUNT OP DANISH LAHI.ANI) HV LUKArs J85 ncy, usually wears a muffltT about his ncik, made out of the skin ol a young {ox, duly observing that the tail hangs from his neck on his shoulders. The Swedish merchants, when they have to travel over the mountains, in like manner cover round the neck with the skin of a martin, in order to keep off the cold : and that nothing should be wanting to it, they usually fill up the crevices made in it by the eyes taken out, by new ones cast from silver. The cloak which is made from the hide of the rein- Jeer, when young, the Laplanders call Moedda, fashioned according to the model of the aforesaid cloak, with this difference, that it has fringes to the sleeves, and it is trimmed below with the skin of a black dog. The furred garments which the Lupland women make, to sell to persons of honourable condition, are made from the skins of young rein-deer, of a gray colour, and are open at the bosom and on each side, with sleeves ornamented with fringes from the skins of otters. A high collar is tacked to them, fringed also with the otter's skin. At the bottom is constantiv a border, the hem of which is a very narrow selvage of black dogrskin, ornamented. On each side of the lower border is seen a fillet, in the form of a wedge. But it is to be noticed, that each border of cloth before the breast, about the neck, or in whatever part of the garment it is placed, is ornamented and diversified with twisted threads of tin, drawn in a variety of forms and figures, as the taste of the pur- chaser may require. The men sometimes make use of leather gloves, called Rappukak. They are most usually made from the skin that is stripped from the feet of the young rein-deer, the shaggy part being turned outside ; and for the better defence against the cold, they put in them hay or long straw, called Sueinek. The Lapland women make up these gloves for persons of condition, which are made at the desire of the purchaser, tnat the part of the glove which covers the hand itself should be of the skin from the feet of the rein- deer, or of the black fox, with the hairy part put outside. That the sleeve, which covers the wrist, with part of the arm, should be finished with cloth, of variegated threads of tin, and trimmed with otter's skin. There are among the Laplanders men, as well as women, who have the custom of wearing bracelets of mountain-trap, which from a vain superstition they use as a charm against pains of the joints. The men never wear stockings, but breeches or pantaloons, which fit the ;s closely and compactly, going from the nip to the ancles. Breeches of this sort are made from thecloth Badmel,or from the cloth Kersey, or from the dressed leather of animals, or lastly from the hide and the skin from the feet of the rein-deer together. Those made from coarse cloth, Badmel, the Laplanders call Gagges-Busak. Breeches made of cloth Kersey, that they should last longer, they usually strengthen before the knees with a leather guard. Those made of dressed leather are called Sistekak, used principally on maritime business. Those made up of hide and skin taken from the feet of the rein-deer are called Kamas-Busak. The upper part of these is made of hide alone ; the lower, com- ing from the hip to the ankles, of the skin from the feet of the rein-deer. These are usually worn on joumies by land, yet in srch a manner that they may be drawn over other breeches next to the body, made from cloth of Badmel, or others made of coarse cloth. ~ The Laplanders fix but one sole to their shoes ; and the shoes of some men are so made, as to consist of the hide taken from the skull of the rein-deer for a sole, and that which comes from the feet of this animal for the upper-leather and latchets. The shoe of this kind is called Gallokak, covered over with h^r, and very much in use among the mountaineers. And as these shoes are on every side shag^, it is plain that they are smooth and slippery ; and for this reason the ends of the hair on shoes which boys wear are singed, lest walking on the ice with a tottering step they may to their danger tumble VOL. I. » 3 D iU: i! dfls ACCOUNT OP DANISH LAPLAND BY LEBMS. down. Some shoes have soles from the skin of the seal, the upper and other parts being made from drissed leather, or somcthinj; else of a soft pliant nature. There are some also made from the hide alone, yet in such a manner that the soles are of a leather thicker than the other purts, and this kind is called Zhi izekak. In some the soles are of the iiiidre^sed hide of the cow, the hair Ixing all outside, the upper-leather and lat* chet lieinf; eitlier from tiinned skins, or soft pliant leather. This third kind is very much in use among the seafaring people. The Laplanders fasten their shoes neither with but- ton nor latchet, but putting them on, tie them round the culf of the leg with a thong of leather, or a twisted cord. It is a custom among them to put in hay or bulrushes to their shoes, that they may retain the warmth the better ; and since the breeches in use among that nntion do not come below the ankles, it follows that the rest of the foot is thrust naked into the shoes. The straw too put in is placed about the sh(x:s, and at evening, when taken off, is taken out to be dried by the fire, that the moisture may be taken out : in the morning, when they are to be put on, the straw is again put in, which, when worn out with long service, is at v3t rejected, and other straw, fresh and sound, put in its place. The women make up boots for sale, which, at the will of the purchaser, are so made, that the soles, the upper-leather, and latchets, taken from the hide, the feet of the rein- deer, with the sh iggy side turned outward ; but the other parts, which cover the soles of the feet, the hams, and knees, consist of cloth, ornamented and diversified with threads of tin : they are fastened above the knee with a leather thong, on the end of which hangs a small tassel made frc>m short shreds of cloth. Boots of this kind, which the inhabitants call Soepokak, end in a crooked and sharpened beak. The belts which the men gird themselves with are leather, and set with tin. From the fore part is hung a purse, resembling a little satchel. In this purse they put up their tobacco, take it out in small parts, put it in their mouth, and chew it On the other side is hung a variety of leather thongs, ornamented with t'ui, tin-tassels, keys, and such things. There is appended to the belt besides, a knife in a sheath, and a variety of rings hanging by a leather thong. The women make up these belts for sale out of cloth, the outside of which is ornamented with tin ; the inner is underlaid with leather. THE CLOTHING OF WOMEN. TH£ Lapland wometi most usually wear linen caps, seldom woollen. The woollen caps are made of kersey, or some such cloth, and consist of two pieces, one of which, reaching to the neck, covers the hinder part and crown of the head, the other part the temples and the rest of it. Along the edge of the sewing, where these parts are joined, a bandage of kersey, or of yellow cloth, is placed. The lowest end of the cap is orna- mented with a fillet of gold, or counterfeit silver, or some other shining bandage, or with a strip of cloth, of a different colour from the cap itself, which is bound round with rib- bons, with gold, or counterfeit silver, which make a very shining appearance. I re- member to nave seen a poor woman with one that was bound with a bandage made of the dressed skin of a salmon, of a colour almost white, in every other respect like the ribbons just mentioned. The caps of linen do not differ from woollen but in the trim- mings ; these being trimmed with ribbons and a bandage of cloth, whereas the linen are ornamented witn more elegant fringes. The Lapland woman, before she puts on her cap, rolls up a certain round ball on the crown of the head, and draws it together under the ball with a thong, by which she gives an appearance to her head covering not unlike the women of Amager in Zealand, and of Opdal in Norway. Concerning the hood, or that covering for die head which l ACCOUNT OP DANISH LAPLAMD BY LKEM8, 387 Avomen, either intent on a journey, or occupied in keepinj^ the rein-deer by night, make use of, these observations occur : they put on a certain kind o*" covering, which reaches from the upper part of it to the neck or chin ; but from the lower is stretched over piurt of the breast, of the arms, and back. This kind of covering is fastened by no buttons or riblx)ns, as being on each side entire and fitting ; it is generally made up of red, green, or blue cloth kersey, adorned at the lower part with a border of cloth, of a colour di Be r- ent from the hood itself. When they have put n this sort of covering, they place a high hood on their head, which rises broad in the shape of a crown, being spread out in the upper part of it. Below, along the lefl side, is a selvage of cloth, of a diflferent colour from the hood ; and such as mean to surpass in dress, make use of a bandage instead of the selvage, made up of gold and counterfeit silver, from which a gilt silver button is pendent. Men as well as women wear tunics and cloaks. The ^'.nics are made from the dressed skins of sheep, resembling the tunics of men, except that behind tliey fall into a variety of folds, lie closer about the breast, and are longer ; for they come down to the hams, when those of the men come only as far as the Icnees. And as the tunics of sheep skin serve the men instead of shirts, so women make use of no other covering than tunics of this kind, made from the unshorn skins of the sheep, with the shaggy part turned inside. The outward garment of the women, made of badmel, kersey, or any other cloth, is like the cloaks of men in almost every particular, with these few excep* tions : the mens' come but to the knees, the womens' to the hams ; the men's are orna- mented with a stiff* collar, the women wear none. The tunics of women, made of sheep skins, have a stiff* collar, reaching over the ears and neck ; which cloaks, made of clotn Badmel, have not, as just mentioned, and which when worn leave the neck above the tunic exposed. Among the women there is also a certain kind of cloak in use, called Barve, made of kersey, or some other common kind of cloth ; but in this diff*ering from others, that it is not entire from the head to the ankles, but cut and sewn "^gain about the belly, and drawn into folds. The cloaks of women made up from the skms of rein, deer, or from their young, difi'er only in form from the mens' ; that these come down to the ankles, whereas the mens' reach but to the knees. The gloves of women agree in shape with those of the men ; those who are desirous of ornament and elegance have hairy gloves, o'l a very white colour, made from the skin taken from the feet of the white rein-deer, arid ornamented on the outside with varie- gated shreds of a diflferent cloth. And as the men wear breeches made of cloth, kersey, or of some other sort, or skin taken from the feet of the rein-deer, the hairy part being turned outside, from dressed skins or leather, so the women wear them, yet they are very seldom made of leather, but in (.'very other respect they are like the mens'. The shoes of the men and women only difi*er, that as the soles of mens' shoes are made of the skin which is taken from the skull of the rein-deer, but the upper part and latchets from the feet of the said animal, so the womens' are made up entirely from the skin from the legs of the rein-deer. Those who wish to be distinguished among the moun- taineers have shoes covered with h^r, of a white colour, from the skins which are taken from the feet of the white rein-deer. The girdles of the women are of leather, or some* dmes of cloth, covered on every side with tm plates ; under the girdle is seen a button, of a larger size, made of mountain-trap, from which some rings cl the same metal for ornament and elegance are hung. Women of condition wear silver girdles. Handker- chiefs, with which the women ornament their necks, are either of stanped linen of Rus- sia, or of coloured linen, which is vulgarly called in taverns Cattun ; or of common white linen, a covering of which, spread over the cloak, extends over the shoulders and breast. The aprons of the women are narrow, made from the stamped linen of '3 s fi i f J88 ACCOUNT OV UANI8H LAPLAND ■¥ LKRMt. Hdssia, or linen Cattun, or of the white common linen, of which the liandkcrchicf juat mt-ntioiicd wuh made, biich uh arc white are omanicnted with fiingcsi ot u nujic cle> gant U'xture. ** The women of Russian Lapland wear silver ear* ringn ; sometimes bilvcr chuinh comin(|^ round the neck, uiul uppendin)^ to the ears. An the cloak!i of each hex in shape diiter no little from one another, it docii not rarclv happen, a circumstance of which 1 have Ijeen a (Tedible cye-witnciis, that tlic hubband, witnout knowing it, puts on the cloak of his wife, us she does in the sume manner tlic clouk of her husband. All cUxtthing of this kind, mule us well as female, such us furred garments, gloves, ^hoes of leather, &.c. arc made by women alone ; us, on the other h.tnd, the men ore cm- ploy ed in the occupation of women, in preparing food and refreshment. 1. CHAP. V....OF THE HABITATIONS OF THE LAPLANDERS. THK hut of a maritime Laplander u cull Laume-Guatte ; it is built within of timber set upright, and without of the bark of the birch-tree, thatched over with turf. Of these beams four are thicker, culled in Lapland Baeljek, bent, and are the principal beams that sustain the bulk of tlic building. A pair are fixed on each side of the hut, driven at one extremity into the earth, but at the other, towards the ^tter, which is always in the middle of the building, upright. When they are fastened in the ground, they are distant from each other by a small interval, but, gradually rising, they keep inclining, to join again near the brink of the gutter. Hence the said four beams or Baeljek, raised in a curved manner, resemble a pair of arches within. Besides those four thick beams used in erect- ing und consolidating the hut of a maritime Laplander, other four curved rafters, called in Lapland, Zhianmek, are erected with them. A pair of these, separated by a small space in the building, in the inner part of the hut, ajid a pair also near the door, are set up : they are fastened in the ground at one extremity, but towards the tc^, arching gradually, they rise towards the gutter of the building. Between the said beams so often mentioned, Baelj«k, erected on each side of the hut, und between the four others described, Zhianmek, placed in the interior part, near the door, which, as I have just now said, ore at a small distance asunder, little beams, or broad pieces of wood, are lodged, us well within nciur the floor, as above towards the roof, whence it is easily understood, that when the four Baeljek and as many Zhianmek rise archways from tne ground to the gutter, and that the little beams or broad pieces of wood fitly correspond in situation with the larger timlier of the building, the hut resem- bles, on the inside, a small arch, from the ground to the gutter. This urch, which the hut of the muritime Laplander forms on the inside, is so low, that you cannot stand upright, but before the (ire, just under the gutter, where the hut is highest ; for if you incline but a little to the sides of the building, your body must necessarily be bent. Where the arch touches the ground, there too are the seats in the hut of a maritime Laplander, for so sunk and low is it, that you must sit on the very ground itself. The hut, when entirely built, und the timber luid in order, is floored within, and to this flcxiring the beams are fastened with nails. In the hut of the mar'time Laplander, near the door, are laid on each side some smooth stones, in Laplund, Juoudok. The floor of the hut is usually round like a circle, with branches of trees on the levelled earth, everywhere paved, except in the middle, where the fire-place is. The fire-place itself consists of rough stones, in a double row, negligently piled on the bare ground, from the door to that part of the building most fitted for it, in which T— » • • • • «■,«? ;* M •%'■ -■.■SL.- J^^ ^ ^ y^^-■ ^^'/{^t(^*;^•[. .'. %f *\. /« • , . •. •r I P J M" •? f! V % \ / • MX' ifc .». < ■ I •■, i, . ■«•• , • i>. .,,.1 NkV ^K ;.■»» Av;>| ,,v'i).^\!f}i /f '% rm /ACCOUNT UinANUII LAFLANI) BY I.KKMH 389 incfoMire a fire is made. Near turh riul oi' the firr two columns ure rrrctcd, of a mo> derate thii:kiK'hH, with one citU in the ^louiui, aiul with thcuther niiM-d up tu ilic gutter, On tht'itc two column!* two iKumn, in L.ipland, e.illt d lialkok, arc liixl((cd, on which Otiier poles are laid acrociH, (rom which are hung wooden tuMtkit, diat hold up pots and kciilc!! on the (ire. WhiNt die lin-i^i hnnun)|^on the hearth, a certain ventilator in provided in die house, near the gutter, widi this view, ksit, while the hinokc in aHCciK.inir through the gutter, thi wind, blowing with greater violence, it tthould he fttop|)id. The ventilator itself is a|>ptiedtodiat hide oC tla gutter which is towards the wind, ho diat if the wind rihCb in tin north, the ventilator is erected on that side of die gutter. The nmritimc Laplanderh, before they gtj to bed, extinguish all the log«i, which are moved from the heard) by means of a stick tilled for that purpose with cold water. Then, letting out all die smoke, they climb up to the roof by means of rafters, named ill Lapland fapimldagak, to shut the gutter. At that end of the fireplace which is opposite the d(K)r arc placed two trunks of the birch-tree, an ell asunder from each Otlier. Thocic form, on the lloor of the cottage, not far from the door, u long but narrow space, where, whenever the fia> is to Ix* lighted, pieces of wood arc to be put, which consist of trunks and branches from trees fresh cut. Here too die guest or Stranger must stand who shelters himself under their hut, until the father himself Af the family, or^omeother mendx.r of it, invites him to a nearer ai)proach. Near the other end of the lire -place, looking towards the interior side of the cottage, opposite to the gate, arc placed likewise two trunks of the birch-trcc, on branches ut die exact distance of an ell from each other; which, us the former just mentioned, make a long but narrow space, where kelites, plates, and odier utensils of this sort, are pLiced. Here is affixed u brazen vessel filled with snow water, where the Laplanders, whenever need or inclination calls them, ({uencli their thirst. From what has hitherto been stated it is easily collected, that, from the outside door to the inner side of the hut, things present themselves in this order : first, not fur from the entrance, between two logs of the birch- tree, laid on branches, is a space or cer- tain limited dimension ; then ttie fire-place, which is raised in the middle of the floor, from rough stones ranged in two heaps ; and next is another space or division, nciu* the interior corner of the hut, made like the first. On each side of the fire-place, and of the said spaces, are two beams on boughs, with which the floor is covered, at the distance of two ells from one another, reaching by one end to the fire, by the other to the wall. These beams form three spaces or measures on each side, one near the door, at the sides of the birch trunks, where the wood for firing is placed ; another in the middle of the hut, near the sides of the fire-place ; and a third at the sides of those trunks, where their kettles, dishes, 8cc. &.c. are kept. In any one of the said spaces or divisions die hide of a rein-deer is spread along the flcx>r, lest the strewed branches of the trees should incommode them too much, either wlien they sit or lie down. The hut is inhabited but by one family ; the father of the family and his wife occupy the one :4ide for them- selves, with its three divisions, leaving the other to die children and servants. But if there are two families, each has its side, with all the divisions belonging to it, so that the one fatherof the family is placed in the inward division of the side he has got, which is the most honourable in the hut, and is called Bosshio-Kiaezhie, the children in the middle, called Gosk-Loido, and the servants in that which is the next to the door, and is the worst of all, called in f .upland Ursa-Kiaezhie. The other father of the family dis- poses in the same manner as the former the pirtof the hut which he has duly obtained, assigning to each member of die family its ownpeculiar portion of it. ■it 390 ACCOUNT OF DANISH LAPLAND BY LEEMS. He who has obtained the inward or more honoured part of the habitation in the hut, on the lurivalof a missionary, comes out, together with his family, and most wil- lingly gives up the place to his welcomed guest, us long as he is p' cased to stay with him. And though two families should occupy the hut at once, yet the fire-place, and certain portions of the place, such as are next to the door, adapted for the keeping of wood, a> well as those opposite the fire-place, adapted for the purpose of keeping various do- mestic furniture, are in common use with both. This nation, which is accounted by many very ignorant of the world, as savage and asbrought under no cultivation of humanity, yet make use of the same hut and fire-side with so much friendship and harmony, that no contest, no brawl, except very rarely, is ever excited among them ; when yet it is fully and abundantly proved, that numbers, who boast, I know not why, a degree of refinement and elegance of manners, and from whom, on that account, you would reasonably expect better manners, cannot inhabit one and the same city and neighbourhood, without discord and contests. The maritime Laplander stables his lambs and calves in the same hut with himself, but a[)art, and in inclosures. How strong the stench of such a sordid lodging must be to the guests is easy to be conjectured. The hut of the maritime Laplander is built with a yard, on the one side of which is the hut itself inhabited by the family, on the other is the st;ill for cattle, hence men as well as beasts must come by the same door in- to their habitation. The hut inhabited by the family, the cow-house, and in the middle between each, the yard, are under one roof, which is first covered with the bark of the birch tree, then with turf from the ground to the top ; hence the appearance of the outside is that of a lengthened and gently declining hill. At some paces from the hut is built a depository, called in Lapland Loaave. A building of this kind consists of certain beams set up- right, over which others are placed across, with the branches of various trees, in the shape of a house without a roof. To this building the Laplanders bring hay, and bind it together so closely, that each of the poles are covered, except the ends that jut out above the hay ; so that you would say that the whole mass was nothing else than three avails of hay. Hay piled and bound up in this manner is kept under the open air during the whole winter very sound from the injury of rain, which very rarely infests this quarter of the world in winter. The outside of the hay-rick can be injured indeed by snow, but the hay nevertheless will be unhurt within. Between the rafters, where the arch is bent, the Laplanders hang their clothes. The space, above the arch, be- tween the three walls of hay just mentioned, is called in Lapland Aske, which word properly means the bosom. Here it is usual to lay up the skins of the rein-deer, baskets, and other vessels of this sort : here sometimes the wearied Laplander takes up his rcst by night. The maritime Laplanders, as often as chey are in want of food for their cattle, strip the trees of their bark, and give it to them to eat : they carry home too the branches of trees, as provender. When a tree is felled and its branches cut off, the trunk is put aside, and hence, as it happened to myself not seldom, when you come into those parts where the trunks of this kind lie along the hills and plains, they will appear to you as so many putrified carcasses. The herds of the Laplanders feed be- sides on certain root.;, some of which have the figure of a bird, some another, 8cc. &c. Besides hay, the usual and oidinary fodder, there is another food, so to express myself, prepared for cattle ; it is extracted from the heads nd bones of fish, from straw, sea- weed, and from the sediment under the oil which is taken from the entrails of fish ; which ingredients, when put together, are thrown into a kettle to be boiled, and, when done, are given in a sufficient quantity to cows, as a food they are very fond of. Tlie 1 I ACCOUNT OF DANISH LAPLAND BY LEKMS. 39 i or e ff, c ill e- c. [If, » in lie Norwegian peasants, called also Normans, inhabiting the eastern Finmark, reed their cows not only with hay, but sea grass, on which the rcin-dccr usually feed. The winter cot of a mountiiin Laplander, with respect to the floor, din\cnsions, and fire-place, resembles almost in every thing the hut of a maritime one, already described, except that the fcjr beams or columns, which in the hut of a maritime Laplander arc erected near each end of the fire-place, are not wanted in the cot of the mountaineer. Between the floor of the cot, which is covered with boughs of trees strewed on the Ir.'^c ground, and the cot itself, raised on slender poles, driven at their extremities into inc snow, and covered with a woollen cloth, a wall of snow, called in Luplund Seine, is made ; and since the snow must Ix: removed from the place in which the cot is to be raised, in the form of a round circle, it follows, that tha snow must on every side be gathered round the floor, as a solid wall. The cot itself consists of four crooked beams, in Lap- land, Baeljek, which make up its principrJ parts, and as it were its foundation and basis. Two beams of this sort are raiseid up on each side, but separated by a small distance, driven at their ends into the snow, the other extremity raised towards the gutter ; and as it has been observed above, speaking of the huts of the maritime Laplanders, they keep bending as they rise, until, joining at top, they are formed into the sha|)e of a double arch. The arches themselves, lest they should totter, are braced with a small rafter. Be- tween these often mentioned four beams are erected various poles, which are fastened at their lower extremity, as well as the beams themselves, in the wall of snow just now mentioned, but, by gradually rising, effect that the cot on the inside should not mate- rially diff*er from the sh^jieof a round tu*ch, especially if the sirid poles are drawn over with a woollen covering. Above, near the roof, another pole is placed across, from which are hung bent iron hooks, by which their kettles and pots are suspended over the fire. The poles, as said, placed in their situation and order, are covered with wcolien blan- kets, which the Laplanders call Loudagak, not with those which are new and sound, but irom such as are the worse for use. The blankets themselves are divided into two greater parts, covering the cot on each side. Each part of the blanket is fastened to the post by the door, or in the inside part of the cot ; this forming in Lapland what is called Skurro. And since these blankets are not of sufficient breadth as to cover the whole cot at once, they take care, by a certain supplement, called in Lapland Naalish, and of the same stuff' as the covering itself, which covers the gutter, should be provided. The door of the cot is made of woollen covering, cut in the shape of a pyramid, the inner part of which is stretched with tenter-hooks, with which they usually lay out s nok- ed salmon. Should a door covering want these tenter-hooks, which the Laplanders call Zangak, it could not supply the place of a door. At each side of the door is erected a thin pole, called in Lapland, Bishiamas, to supply the defect of posts. When the wind blows with violence, the door, which is hung only above, and indeed with a thong of leather a" one, is fastened to one of the poles, so that on that side where the wind presses it is entirely «>iMt against it, which, was it not so, under a strong wind the fire on the hearth would be tossed about, and the smoke, checked from going up, would fill the whole cot. When the wind does not blow, the door is open, and a free entrance and exit is made for it. The mountain Laplander usually erects his cot in the middle of the wood, and goes out every day, with the exception of festivals alone, to provide wood. When a tree is felled, he himself draws it through the snow to his cot, where he cuts off" the top, and the lesser branches, on a low block or machine, placed behind the door for this pur- pose. The trunk and thicker branches are cut into larger pieces. The wood, moist and id '■:^fk 3f9 ACCOUNT OI' DANISM LAPLAND IIY LKKM8. Stiff with the cold biiovv and ice, as brought from the forest, is laid on the fire, where, taking flame, it oozes out a certain dampness, accompanied with a strong vapour. The Laplanders call this vapour Sltiudga, from which, they say, they receive greater annoy- ance, than even from the smoke, of which the Lapland mountaineer so nmch com- plains. When preparing to light nhe fire, they catch the spark on the bark of the birch- tree, and when caught, feed it from dried leaves and small branches of trees ; then, as it lights, larger pieces of wood are put on ; when the fire is lighted, the whole cot, from the top to the bottom, is filled with smoke, to that degree, thai all who are in it are envelop- ed in a thick cloud, and are well nigh deprived of the use of sight. As the fire gradual- ly gets up and breaks out into flames, the smoke, but by little and little, decreases , and Sit :h is the abundance and force in which it remains, that, though sitting in the cot on the ground, you may yet reach it with the crown of the head. When the winds blow more than common, the smoke is struck back from the gutter, which is always open. The Lapland mountaineer, on going to bed, does not put out the fire, but lets it bum until it is extinguished of Itself. He does not use a lamp with oil and link, contented with that light alone, which the fire on the hearth supplies him with on the mountains. At the distance of some paces from the cot of the Lapland mountaineer stands a certain vessel, called in Lapland Loaavve, raised on beams set an end, on which cross ones are placed, with the boughs of various trees. The whole of this building, where vessels, rein-deer skins, 8ic. are put up, is not unlike a house built without a roof. The summer coi of a Lapland mountaineer is almost the same as the winter cot, as I have shewn, with this difference, that this is covered with woollen, the summer one with thick linen cloth, nor is it defended by a wall of snow, the snow being at this time of the year everywhere almost dissolved. The little tent which the Lapland mountaineer, when he goes to hunt the rein-deer, or otherwise intent for a longer journey, carries with him, is made of thick linen, in the Lapland Lavvo. In the place where he intends to erect this tent, the snows are carefully cleared away, even to the baie soil, so *l'at what are untouched remain as walls drawn round in a circle. He then strews the floor with branches cut from trees, laid over the bare earth ; he makes a fire-place from stones laid along in two heaps ; he erects beams, from trees which are at hand in the place, driven at one end into the edge of the wall of snow, but meeting above, and, thus raised, surrounds it with a linen covering, of which there is mention above. The tent built in this manner, the Laplander lights a fire on the hearth, in order- to restore his limbs numbed with cold, or prepare his tbod, for which purpose l^ usually takes with him a little kettle. Should the ^ ^plander, intent on a journey by sea, be compelled to put in where, on account of t' ^ tempest suddenly coming on, or any other cause, there is no trace of civiliz'ition and he has nothing at hand of which he stands in daily use, he instantly builds tilTiSelf a house : he takes the oars from his little bark, erects on the shore, and, when erected, covers them with a sail, under which roof, as long as he can subsist there, he remains. Among the Laplanders who inhabit the mountains, as well as the coast, are the cup- boards, or little out-houses propped on rjuls, where it is customary to put up provisions, and little utensils ; the cupboards of the maritime Laplander are at no great distance from his hut, the inhabitant of the mountain usually builds them in the forest. See chapter the eleventh, on die joumies of the Laplanders. The mountaineers usually build vaults under ground, called Gedde-Borra, cover the bottom with stone, and there put up the flesh of the rein-deer. AccouN I or UAxren lai'LANd by lkkms. >9.. Having now finished the description of tiie habitations of the Laplanders, 1 think 1 should add something of the little hovels of the Norwegian and Lapland peasants. The hovel of a Lapland peasant has wooden walls, and them low, and without ceiling. The beams on which the poles, sustaining the turf or thatch, arc lodged, are not laid across, but lengthways, and within. There is no gutter, as there is in other huts ; nor have ttiey light from windows, but through chinks, which, when the occasion requires, they shsit up with a little shutter. Within is an oven, not very unlike those of bakers, over which is piled a large heap of stones. In this oven a great heap of wood every day is lighted, and keeps burning, until the oven and the stones laid on it glow with a very in- tense degree of heat. Whilst the oven is heating, the outlets and chinks, as many as are, are thrown ojm}!!, that the smoke may have a free egress, to be closed again when the fire is out ; by which means the heat, which is the greatest possible, is within, and kept up by the heat of the glowing oven and stones, it continues until fresh fuel is brought and lighted up in the oven. When the chinks and outlets are all closed up, it is dark within, and for this reason they light unctuous pieces of the fir-tree, in the place of a candle, and dispel the darkness so far, as to need no other light to complete their usual work. The floor of the hovel of a Norwegian peasiint, an inhabitant of Finmark, is paved with hewn stone. The inner sides of the walls are made of timber set upright, not unlike a piece of floor- work ; but without are covered, first with the bark of the birch-tree, then with turf, one lodged .upon another, so that the ' tark of the birch-tree should be between the turf and flooring. There is no distinction of floors throughout the house. The roof rises in a point outside, as with the other peasants, covered with the bark of the birch-tree, and with turf. Olaus Magnus, a celebrated writer, is of opinion that the boisterous winds and deep snows, which are condensed in Finmark, are the reason that the inhabitants of this tract build for themselves subterraneous habitations ; but, in my opinion, the construct' on and use of these dwellings is to be ascribed to the scarcity of wood, especially in insular situa* tions, where the soil is bare and barren. But as to these habitations of wood tumbling down by the attack of winds, provided they are raised on a firm and solid foundation, is an idle fear. For almost all persons in official situaticiis, appointed by the king for administering the public affiiirs in this country, as also merchants resident here for pur. poses of business, it is certain live in wooden houses, and them seldom consisting of two stories ; to say nothing that these subterraneous caves are the best adapted for preserv- ing heat. CHAP. VI....OF THE BEDS, AND BEDCHAMBERS, OF THE LAPLANDERS. pe be Id 1p THE bed on which the maritime Laplander reposes in his hut, as the mountaineer when he goes to rest in his cot, is covered and furnished with the skin of the rein-deer laid on the bare branches of trees, which is the flooring, equally of the hut and cot. The clotlies which they wear by day serve for a bolster ; a coverlet, made of the unshorn yet dressed skin of a sheep, with the hairy part inside, is their blanket. On this blanket is afterwards laid a rough woollen cover. The woollen blanket under which the moun- taineer lies in winter is m the shape of a sack, into which he thrusts his feet. The hus* band, wife, children, and servants, every one, even if the cold is extreme, go naked to bed. The beds have no other separation than a small pole negligently placed from each other. In the inside of the hut (see what is said on the various dimensions of the floor VOL. I. 3 E ^94 ACCOUNT OP DANISH LAPLAND BY LiiBMS .' »l of a maritime Laplander's hut in the preceding chapter, for in the cot of a mountaineer the same obtains) is a small piece of wood, the inside of which the husband with his wife, on the outside towards the door the children, sleep. A little below, not far from the door, is also another small piece, within which, next to the door, is the servants bed. And tlioiigh all the beds are separated by this partition piece of wood from each other, yet so near is one to the other, that the parents can touch and handle the children when in bed, as these can their servants. The mountain Laplander, sleeping in his summer cot under a linen covering, equal- ing in length and breadth the bed itself, and coming over his body neither tight* nor close, but leaving a due space between, goes to rest : for the covering raises itself in the middle like a small oven, touching the earth at the end and on each side. But this co* vering is bound with thongs to those bent beams, which, as was shewn in chapter the fifth, speaking at length of the habitations of the Laplanders, form within the cot of the moun- taineer, to the intent lest when they repose they should be unceasingly annoyed by gnats, with which this country in summer-time abounds. For the long gnat flies about Finmark every where, and in such swarms, that those who walk between the trees, from the multitude of these insects that get about the face, seem as inveloped in a cloud : they are equally troublesome to man and beast. Those who are stung by them in the face or hands begin soon after to itch, and to swell with certain white ulcers ; so that you would believe that persons coming in summer out of the country, with commonly a swoln and deformed face, were infected with the leprosy. The Laplanders, busied in the forests in summer, either in getting in wood, or bark from trees, with difficulty can eat on account of these gnats, who, no sooner is the mouth opened, than in a swarm they fly in. When the winds set in strong, ihey instantly de- part ; but when they subside, return again, and fill all places with their accustomed humming. The recreation which the mind might be disposed to take from the agreeable return of summer, after the long wearisome time from the festival of Michael the Archangel to the month of July of the year following, is disappointed indeed, in a great degree, by these annoying insects. But how rude and immitigable the temperature of heaven is in this quarter of rh- world may be learned from this, that when on the festival of St. John, and of course in the middle of summer, 1 had been on a visit with Peter Andius, a pro- vincial judge, who lived in Talvigia, near the shore, I found a great heap of snow lying near the windows of the room I slept in, as yet unthawed. And as the said insects are so troublesome to men, so do they create no less trouble to the rein-deer and the rest of the cattle ; for whenever the herds are returning from pasture, these annoying gnats in a swarm fix themselves on the back of each beast, not to quit him until they have taken their full of blood ; for when they are driven off by the hand, drops of blood begin soon after to flow from the Lack of the animal. It is with difficulty that they endure smoke ; and for this reason, when the cattle are brought to the milk pail, the Laplanders bum turf, or some other moistened materials, that will furnish plenty of smoke, to the intent that, the gnats driven off by these means, they may milk the cattle quietly and without disturbance. And though this kind of insect is so feeble and infirm as to perish with the slightest touch of the finger, yet is it able to penetrate with its sting the very hard hide of a horse, thick woollen stockings, and other things of equal hardness. ACCOrNT OF DANISH LAPLAND DY LEUMt). ;>f» CHAP. VII....OF THE MEAT AND DUINK OI' THE LAl'LANDEKS. THERE arc certain things on which the Laplanders live, whether you look to the materials, or to the manufacture and manner of preparing them, common with those of the rest of the Norwegian jx;asants. Concerning these it is not my intention to spiak, as I have proposed only to mention something of that kind of food which is ix;culiar to the Laplanders, from the nature of the materials and manufacture. 'I'licy Ixiil the milk of the rein-deer in summer, infusing their liquor called Syrc, until, tinctured with the colour of that lujuor, it comes to a consistency. The milk which in autumn, especially about the festival of All Saints, is taken from the rein-deer, is iwuied into casks or other vessels destined for this purpose, where, from the heat still remaining in the air, it grows sour, and soon after, the cold gradually increasing, it is condensed into ice, by which means it can be preserved, and is, the whole winter. The milk, which after the festival of All Saints comes from the rein, deer, mixed with berries of a black colour, which the Norwegians call Kraefebaer, is poured, purged, and clear from filth, into a rein-deer's bladder, where, by the force of the cold, it thickens in a short time. This is their winter nourishment, which, when the Laplanders are going to eat (the} eat it during winter once a day, about noon) they cut with an axe a piece from tin- bladder, to which the milk, mingled with berries, stick, so that the skin of the bladder, milk and berries, thickened with the cold into one consistency, are cut together at once. This mass of milk, mingled with berries, and part of the bladder of the rein-deer, con- densed with cold, is afterwards cut into a variety of parts, which as they were cut, stift and unthawed by the application of heat, are put on plates, to be eaten. Whilst they are eating their teeth gnash with the cold, notwithstanding there cannot be in the milk of the rein-deer, from its natural fatness, so much cold as m the milk of other animals. The milk which later, and when the winter is farther advanced, is got from the rein- deer, is laid up in bowls, made from stocks of die birch tree, where, from the extremity of the cold, it is soon chan^'d into ice. The Laplander does not use this congealed milk himself, but keeps it for his missioniuy and others, whom he is pleased to receive with magnificence and honour. When this milk is ever to be eaten, the bowl, in which it has congealed, inclined a little, is placed near the fire-side, whilst the surface of the con- gealed milk, turned to the fire, gradually liquifies ; which when done, the bowl is taken up, and whatever milk is thawed by the heat of the fire is eaten with a spoon ; this is repeated until they are satisfied. Congealed milk of this sort is protected against the wind by a cover, which, if neglected, would lose in a short time its sweetness and white- ness, and, tinged with yellow, would soon become rancid. The Laplanders make cheese from the rein-deer's milk, and in the making of it ob- serve this form : first, they mingle water with the milk, which otherwise, by reason of its thickness, when the rennet was put in, could not be dissolved nor separated ; then they heat it over the fire in a kettle ; when heated, the rennet is poured in, by which the milk is instantly dissolved, and the whey, being separated, is formed into cheese. Lastly, they take the cheese out of the kettle, in any shape it takes, or to be pressed and formed in a linen cloth. The cheese itself is fashioned into a circular form, of a mo- derate thickness. It is eaten at will, either as it is, or boiled in water ; sometimes it is roasted, which is done in this manner : the cheese is cut into small parts, which, when pared, are put near the fire to roast ; which is repeated at the will of the feeder. So much does this cheese abound with fat, that on being put to the fire it bums as a candle. It is thought also a cure for a kibe on the heel. That rennet, by which rein-deer milk 3e2 396 ACCOUNT OF DANISH LAPLAND BY LREMS. 1 ' I '1, il is turned and made into cheese, consists of a whey, in which the paunch of an ass, or tlie ciitruils ut a ic in-clcer, huve for sonic time lain. BuUer is also made from the milk of the rein-deer, of a white colour, but not so rich and well tasted as what is made of cow's ; the reason is obvious, that this is made from creuu), but that from mere fresh milk. The UKiritime Laplanders, whose herds consist of oxen, sheep, and goats, make butter from cream alone. The La|)laiid woman, occupied in the making of butter, sits on the ground, holding a bowl in her lap filled with cream, which she stirs and works with her finger till it thickens into butler. The mountain Laplander subsists on the flesh of the rein-deer, fresh killed, through the \^ hole winter ; hence not a week passes, during the season, in which he does not kill one or two, if the family is numerous, 'i'he flesh is cut up into pieces, which, un- washed and co\'ered with dirt, is put into a kettle. It is dressed at a slow fire, put to the one side of the kettle, that the fat which sticks into the flesh should be the better extracted. From the meat, when sufliciently boiled, the oil which lies above is skimmed oil' with a ladle, put into a vessel, sprinkled with salt, and put aside. Then each piece, taken rough from the kettle, is put on a dish, while the broth is left to stand. When put on the table, the father of the family, with his whole household, sits down round the dish, which is of a circular shape. Whilst eating, they dip the bits in the oil squeezed from the fat of the flesh, which is put in a vessel ; these they take not with a fork, but with the point of a knife. In the kettle where the broth remains, when the meat is taken out, is a little ladle, with which they sup a little of the broth while they are eating. This broth consists of mere water, without any mixture of flour, or such like, and is well tasted from the meat lx)iled in it alone. It is said bv some, that the Laplanders feed on raw flesh, but in all contradiction of truth. The mountain Lap- lander, besides the flesh, boils the legs of the rein-deer, fixsh killed, and, when suffi- ciently boiled, takes them out for the marrow. A dish of this kind is among this |)eo- ple of any price ; certain it is, it is usually set before a missionary, as something pecu- liar and delicate. The entrails of the rein-deer, which are not boiled in the same kettle with the meat, are food yet for tiie Laplanders. So economically does he convert every part of the animal he has killed to his use, that not even the bones, in which any fat or marrow may be left, are given to the dogs, but, after he has picked them, he breaks them, and takes care to extract whatever fat may remain, by boiling. While he is engaged in this, he is seated on the ground, and on the rein-deer's hide, which is spread out on his lap, he breaks the bones with a mallet ; when broken, boils them, un- til whatever fat be in them is extracted. The lungs are given to the dogs ; for the mountain Laplander, when a rein-deer is killed, usually distributes among the dogs, Avhich he must have to guard and protect the rein-deer. I knew a Laj)lander who lived on the mountains, named Oluf Nielsen (that is, son of Nicolas) Aujevare, who kept eigb* of these watch dogs. But they can bear himger to an incredible degree ; lor, wi*! ne exception of these lungs just mentioned, the miserable famished animnls get nt "g besides a little broth made from the blood of the animal, called in Lapland Vuori .tiaellc, which is given to them in the morning, and of the meat in the evening, to be consumed. The Laplanders, as was said, not only boil the meat, but roast it on a spike, the end of which is fastened in the ground. It is to be observed, that the Laplanders are very fond of every thing roasted, esjKcially of meats. The roasted, of which they are so fond, is not put on spits, but spikes, nor basted with butter. From what is said on this subject, it is plain that the flesh of the rein-deer, fresh, is the ordinary food of the Lap- ACCOUNT OF DANISH LAPLAND BY LRBMS. 397 lander, and that he makes little or no use of it salted. For it would be unnecessary to sprinkle with b;ilt d)e Hesh of animals which arc- killed in autumn and winter (for in the summer season the Laplanders rarely kill) as they are best preserved by that very ex- treme of cold itself. Yet it sometimes happens that the mountain Laplander, through repetition and lan- guor of the constant use of fresh meat, takes care to smoke, for the sake of variety, some ribs of the rein-deer, and those when raw, which he first stabs with the point of a knife, that the smoke may more easily tind entrance. And when this is done, he puts them up between the poles and rafters, of whieh, in chapter the fifth, speaking of the habi- tations of Laplanders, we treated. Besides the meat of the rein-deer, whicn the moun- tain Laplandei's, and the beef and mutton, which the maritime ones use, the flesh of bears, foxes, otters, seals, and such animals, are eatable among them, with the exception of the swine, which is interdicted to the Laplander. The Laplanders engaged in fishing for salmon cut from this fish, as the Norwegians do from the larger flounder, long slices, called in Norwegian Ravreffling ; but though the salmon is a nobler fish than the greater flounder, yet the pieces of this arc better tasted. The salmon is cut from head to tail into two equal parts, a variety of cuts being indented in its flesh, and then hung up to dry in the sun. The Laplanders live on fish that is dried and pounded, without any preparatory dress* ing, dipping each bit into oil squeezed from the entrails of the fish (oil of this kind is called in Norwegian Tran) and, what you may be more surprised at, the mother gives this food to the infant at her breast. She chews a bit, before dipped in oil, and, when chewed, puts it in the mouth of the infant, who is thus accustomed to this oil from his cradle. And hence it is that oil of this kind to the Laplander, whose natural appetite is changed, is more agreeable and pleasing than butter. But though it is true that the Laplanders are much delighted with this oil, yet it is by no means true, which some author asserts with suflicient confidence, that every Laplander consumes a pint and a half of this very unctuous and rancid liquor at each meal. Nor have I ever observed, what yet the same author seriously contends, that every woman, when brought to bed, drinks in like manner a pint and a half of this said oil, for increasing her strength. I do not yet doubt that a small portion is given to a woman when near her time, which is thought to assist and strengthen her when in labour. Those who are in distress, through want of dried fish, put on the embers the dried heads and backs of fish, in which there is any meat left, and when done eat it. Dried fish, the broiled heads and back-bones of them, the marrow of seals, cut into long pieces, which, together with the fish, before put into the pot to be boiled, were some little time put up in the bladder of a seal, that the fat might be the easier extracted ; all these collected and mixed they usually boil together. A half hour at least is consumed in the boiling a fish, which, when boiled sufficiently with the other ingredients just men- tioned, are eaten together. They dip the fish in a certain liquor, not unlike common oil, which exudates from the marrow in the bladder of the seal. And as it is customary with the Laplanders to roast their flesh by a fire on spikes, so do they dress fish in the same manner ; for instance, in the dressing of the greater codfish they use this method : from this fish, when fresh taken, they first take out the entrails, then the liver, and stuflP it, and then put it on the spit to roast by the fire, and, seated on the ground, they place a dish in their lap, and cut out the belly ; and, since more time is tiken up in dressing the liver than in roasting the fish, they put it, pounded, and not yet fully roasted, on a heated stone, that all rawness being removed by these means from it, they may eat it with the rest of the fish without any illness. 'J7 •£lt 11 i! !' t II 398 ACCOUNT OF DANISH LAPI.AND OY LKR.MS. The liver of fibh is boiled, and while trailing \h stirred with a ludle, until it changes into a bort of a pulse, which ib mingled widi black tx-rries, called in the Norwegian Krafe- baer. Fo(xl of this sort is taken with snoons, without bix'ad, which they never, even with the fattest foods, make use of. 'I'liat the Laplanders bliould draw on them- selves a variety of diseases, from the frequent use of such unwholesijuie meats, you would easily believe ; but that it is otherwise, the experience of many years has enough and more than enough confirmed ; that not only the Laplanders, who inhabit this tract of country, but almost all, are men of very great strength, and very healthy. The various kinds of disorders, and whole battalions of fevers, that range the world, are banished from this place ; for, during the space of ten years I have been in Finmark, I could not find any trace of dysentery, of leprosy, of malignant fever, and such contagious maladies. The said foods, such as dried, pounded fish, dipjK'd in oil pressed from die liver of the fish, dried heads and back Ijones done on heated stones, fresh fish boiled with the marrow of seals, and dipped in oil pressed from the entrails of fish ; the greater codfish (this the Norwegians call Hyse, or Kolje) stufi'ed with its liver, and raisted, asalso the liver beat up with a spattic, and mingled with a kind of black berry much in use among the maritime Laplanders. The mountain Laplanders contrive to get now and then for themselves a few sea-fish frozen with the ice, which, by reason of the extreme cold raging on the mountain tops for a very long time, can easily preserve them safe through the whole winter. From fish of this kind they acquire a food, which cannot but be to them, so much accustomed to live on rein-deer, as delicious, as it is rare. The maritime Laplander frequently, the mountiiineer more rarely, make themselves a broth from water and meal, with which they mingle tallow, to make it more savory. They usually put the tallow into a certain entrail called in Lapland Doggie, which, when stuffed, resembles a long pudding. The tallow itself, before it is mingled with the broth, is beat with the intestine, with which it is so bound up. Besides, pieces of fresh meat and cheese of the rein-deer, cut small, are put into this broth, to render the relish more sa- vory. Another broth (Vuorra-maelle) is in use among the mountaineers, made from water, blood, pounded tallow, and meal, if .1 plenty. The blood, which makes up part of this broth, is poured from the bladder of the rein-deer, where it is kept frozen by the cold the whole of the winter. When the broth is ready, a piece of the frozen blood, with piu-t of the skin, is cut from the bladder, and then put into a kettle, to be boiled ; they usually dine the whole of the winter on broth of this kind. They sometimes make cakes, from a mixture of wati : and fine flour, which they bake on burning coals. There are certain foods prepared by the L;iplanders, not so much for the sake of satisfying the natural wants, as for the delight and gratification of the palate : for in- stance, they scrape or pure oft" the white coveriiig or bark, with which firs or birch- trees are surrounded, with a knife, which some, in its fresh state, others when dried in smoke, and dipped in oil pressed from the fat of the fish, cat. In the place of apples, nuts, and other productions of this kind, diey eat, for their amusement, Angelica, not the root itself, l:)ut the herb, and that very frequently in its rdw state, and sometimes baked on coals, or boiled in milk. In the early spring, when the snow is giving way, they usually gather berries, which during the winter were covered with snow, for use. I myself have seen boys chewing the thick weed, which the sea throws upon the shore, which is not unlike a thong of leather, or a whip. The Laplanders are very eager after tobacco, which they one time chew, at another lighted, they draw in smoke through a pii)e of clay. While chewing, they spit out also into the hollow of the hand, and Uie I* ACCOUNT OF DANISH I.APLAND HV LfX^Jf 399 spittle, tinged with the colour and taste of tobacco, thiy tajjcrly snuff, regaling two sen- scM utoiice, the smell and taste, with one piece of tobacco. They make also u snutV of the same tobacco, with which, if any thing is mingled, it is Castor. And indeed, that they should give the stronger proof of their mad fundness, or rather mad desire, for tol)ac> CO, when in want of it, they do not svTuple to chew the rollers pucki-d up in the tobacco, and, what you will express greater surprise at, the little dirty leather bags, in which they keep their tobacco, when cut into small bits. Among the Laplanders, especially the rustics inhabiting, Finmark there is a custom, that, when in a scarcity of tobacco, ten or even inorc smoke by turns from the same piiJC. Till) so order it ; thi y set down in u circle, then he who i«i fonil of a piix: and tobacco, after a few whiH's, from his seat offers the pipe to him who sets next to hun, who, taking also t^vo or three whiff->, pusses the pipe to his next man, and thus on, until the owner shall have e(]ually shared it among all his companions ; u courtesy of this kind is es- teemed very lilxiral and honourable in that nation, and he who [Krforms it obtains con- siderable favour among them. The daily and ordinary drink of the maritime Laplander, as well as mountaineer, is cold water, mingled with snow ; for snow, vviien at hand, is always mingled with their drink ; and hence it Ibllows, that the veracity of this author is questionable, who asserts that the Laplanders hist heat in u brazen kettle over the fire the water they intend to drink. In the inside of the cot, as well as hut, is a brazen kettle or tub, fUled with wa- ter. See chanter the fifth, on the houses of the Laplanders, and tub, which filled with water, w hen they choose, the) drink of. Tiie mountaineer, fearing the want of water, generally builds his cot on marshy grounds ; yet sometinies it happens, and that not seldom, that he is obliged to build in dry, where, through want of u spring, he is compelled to drink snow melted over the fii-e, a bitter and very unpleasant drink, on account of the very bad taste which snow melted in an open ketUe contracts, as well from the kettle, as the smoke. Coming into places where the water, by reason of the ice that covers it, or any other cause, cannot be easily got, the Laplanders procure drink for themselves in this manner : they put down at the one end a hollow bone, or an earthern tube, into die water, holding the upper in their mouth, and thus, as by a pump, drink. The Lapland Mf^untaineer, riding in winter through the mountains, usually takes his axe in his sledge with him, by which, on his journey over lakes and rivers frozen with cold, he cuts the ice, and inclining a little with his body, sitting in his sledge, he drinks. And this is sufficient on the meat and drink of the Lapland people. But it deserves to be noticed, that the offices of cook are performed by males, not by females, among them; for it is the father of the family himself that puts the meat and things into the pot to be got ready ; while dressing, he sits by them, and takes care, that when boiled and got ready they are laid on the table. The Laplanders rarely wash and clean their pots and kettles. The plates, out of which they eat their pottage, tbey clean, by licking with their tongue. CHAP. VIII OF THE VARIOUS FURNITURE AND UTENSILS OF THE LAPLANDERS. THE whole economy of the Laplanders is simple and short, so as not to stand in need of much furniture, nor, if filled up with it, could they commodiously make use of it. The Laplande<^ '^f the mountain inhabit a small cot, w)iich, here to-day, to-morrow 40C) AUCUUN'i UF DANIMII LAIM.WII IIV IXCMfl. l\ iH taken down, unci fixed elsewhere. Nur do the maritime Laplanders fix their al)ode less compactly, so that an abundance of furniture would Ix* rather an inipedimcnt, than use, to him. 'I'here ore no sieats, no tables, to be met with m t!ieir habitutionti. A llw pans, kettles, l)owls, and wooden dishes, which aa- ni.ide of birch, stocks, H.i^^jns of tin, horn spoons, and other vases of this sort, of little value and account, make up the whole of their household furniture. .Some have di?thes of tin, and some, who are more opulent, sometimes possess a few silver spoons. The pots in use amtjng the L.ipl.uiders are without feet, ami can conveniently Ik so ; for as in tin. ir habitations, when the Hooring consists of mere branches of trees strcwcd over the bare )^(juud, it coulil easily happen, that if these |)ots had feet, when placed on them, they could not stand firm. 'I'he hooks, by which these kettles and |M)ts are held over the lire, amon^ the moinitaineers, are in)n, but among the inhabitants of tlie coast are made of wood. It is a custom among tlicm to keep salt in the skin of a pigeon. The lamps, which supply the place of candles, in the huts of the maritime Laplanders (the mountaineers use none, contented with the light which the glowing fire furnishes) are fabricated from wood, surrounded with a wooden circle. In the lamp itself is put u shell, which in Norwegian is caiieu Har|x.--Skioel, that is, the Harp-shell, filled with oil pressed from the liver of fish, a certain niaishy weed, cidled in Lapland Sinok, being used in the place of a link. For cradles they make use of a hollow trunk (they call it themselves Gieedk.) In this the infant, wrap|Kd in wooll- en clothes and skins, and fastened with a twisted ro)K', going oAen round the cnidle, lies. In that part of the trunk M'hich the head of the infant occupies is a certain bending, repre- senting a small arch, formed by a skin expanded over nieces of wood, to cover the head of the child in it, From this arch or bend is n corcl drawn along die cradle, length- wise, to which is annexed a thread with beads, and with this the infant, when loosened, delights to play. This cradle, with the infant in it, the mother, when wishing to hush it, usually puts in her lap ; when going to walk, on her back ; and to ride, in the vcliiclc or bledge. CHAP. IX OF THE HEIN-DEER, AND THEIR MANAGEMENT BY THE LAPLANDERS. THE rein-deer couple about the end of autumn, but bring forth in spring. The elder among the male, and superior in powers among the herd, called in the Lapland Aino-valdo, drives off competitors, unequal to him either in years or sta-ngth, from the view and contact of the females. It is an opinion with many, that the females of this ani- mal do not produce their young but in the most tempestuous season, clouded with mists of snow and hail, whence the storm, which in spring, after seed-time, arises, is commonly called Rein-Kalve-Rein, the time of bringing forth the young, in the Norwegian lan- guage. But this opinion is erroneous, and justly exploded : for it follows of course, and the order of nature requires, that the rein-deer, like other dams, should necessarilj', when the time comes, bring forth, nor can they bear the young beyond the appointed time, whatever state of temjierature the air may be in. Some bear yearly, called Aldo ; others every other year, called Rodno ; and some iu-e constantly barren, which they call Stainak. The young soon drop their horns when born, and instantly from their birth take delight in the wonderful swiftness of their legs, in which they are found in a short time to equal their dams. Every dam distinguishes her own from the rest of the herd, by the scent alone. The young rein-deer (I mean those whose dams arc of an ash-colour, for the white generate white) when first born, are red, with a black line ninning along the back ACCOl Ml' 01' DAMdII LAI'I.ANW 11^ I.KKM^ 101 din'ctly, and arc then called MIcsse. This colour endures till nutiimn, when it clianj^cs into a hriiwnish and well nigh dark culour, red hairs diHtinguishiiig the greatest part, when they are ealltd Xhierniuk. The youtij^ are p;enerally ash coloured, sonu- white with ttsh spots iKtwecn, and some altogeU»er whitr, 'I'hose of an ash colour, when the winter gets advanced, and is drawing to a close, and they are changing their furs, change then their ash colour for a dark gray, but these fresh hairs increasing more and more, be- come insensibly dark and sleek in the end. The male by far surpasses the female, called I)y the Nonvegians Simpler, in the size of the Ixxly. A great many of these, evcti some from the females, are distinguished by their high and branching horns ; some, but few, are altogether destitute of thtm. In some a single horn only comes out ; these the Laplanders call Abmel. Those who Ixar horns lose them once u year, in the spring time. When the old are fallen off, new ones in a short time grow up, which at first come out from the forehead, like two dark downy apples ; when they have gradually increased, the skin, with which they arc covered, puts on an ash colour, but at the approach of autumn, when they have ob- tained their full growth, shedding their coverings, they come out smooth. Each ani- mal sustains two very large horns, which at the bottom arc thicker, but a little above, suppose in each horn, a lesser branch grows out resembling a pointed |ilate, not unlike the p;ilm of the hand, with its fingers extended. This brancn is called in Lapland Aude- Giet. Above the s;iid branches, es|H'cially in the males, other small points, or little branches, project, and near to the highest point of each horn is another pointed plate, called in Lapland Liedme or Zhioaarve-Sleddo. At the root of the other horn is ex- tended another pointed plate, called Galb, a little larger, which is sonxetimes turned downwards to the nose of the animal, and which is usually cut off, lest it should hinder it whilst fectling. The horns of some wild rein-deer are of such magnitude and size as to weigh eighteen pounds. Anu as, just said, rein-deer carry branching horns, so docs it happen, and not rarely, that struggling with each other, they get so entangled, that without the help of man they cannot be sundered and disengaged from each other. The greatest fat of this animal is on his loins, and among the rein-deer are found some who are so fat in these parts, that in the autumn, before they go to the females, they are found to be more than a full span in thickness. The rein-deer are annoyed the whole summer by certain flies, or insects, which, getting into the nostrils, miserably worry them. This animal is subject to a variety of ills. A certain malady resembling the pox rages among them, by which so great is the havoc, that a Laplander, wh3 had a large range of rein-deer, could perceive that he would be stripped of a very great mimber, if not all of them, in a short time. Certain worms that get into the flesh, short and thick, called in Lapland Gurma, near the back of the rein-deer, especially when in their first year, are also generated in the spring time. The Laplanders sometimes dig out wonns of this sort, and the rein-deer itself ejects them through the nostrils, with a snorting and neighing. They eat through the-skin of the animal, and occasion that the skins which arc stripped from the rein-deer in spring-time are esteemed far inferior to others. There is a certain worm, which is called in Lapland Saul, not rarely found under the tongue of the rein- deer. In some the neck is subject to swellings, in others the ears, smelling very strong ; sometimes it happens that the joint next the hoof is diseased. The animal when walk- ingis agitated, and brings out a very loud noise. But the rein-deer is an animal of the greatest speed, because within the shortest space of time an immense journey can be performed, though he is not governed as a horse, with reins, but inclining now on this side, now on that, in his course he makes n VOL. I. 3 F 'i J. M> 403 irNT or DAN1HII I.APl.ANn BV ITRMH. winding nnd tonp;cr truck, which \% ctutily collected from the trucks he hn« left in tlic Know. Within the spucc uf six huiint, uiul |K'rhu|)H u shorter time, from the rising to the netting elonging rormerly to the congregation of Alten, was htiilt upon a rising groin\d, to Koudekeino. As the reindeer is tleet in running, ho is he not inexpert in swimming ; they usually run lull of playfulness up and down, tor their own pleusure, without ujiv one driving them, and exult as if through joy, us 1 myself have fre(pienUy seen. '1 he Laplanders aflirm that the rein-deer, hy siK)rting in playful roinids and gamliols, predict a storm ut hand. When annoyed hy heat and summer, they usually get unon the higher groundu, cutching at the cold for rifreshment, by striking the ground with their feet. The principal and most usual fo(xl of this animal is the white lichen, which in winter the rt in-deer traces out under the snow ; and for the getting at it, he removes the snow with his feet till the ground is clear ; and hence along those places the herds range in for pasture, frecpiently, gaps and holes are seen in the snow. Sometimes too it happens that the fields are so hard with ice, or so covered with snow, diat it is not in the power of the rein-deer to get with his h(K)fs at the lichen that lies imdcr. There is no calamity the Laplanders dread mon^ than this; for under this attack there m grcutrisk lest the whole race of reindeer, the chief strength and greatest care of this nation, should all fail, and doubtlessly would, were not the impending evil averted by Divine Providence. VVhile the reindeer are Ht''aying in the plains and mountains in search of fixjd, it now and then happens that an error carries away some Irom the rest of the flock, \\<>\v fed and at rest, into the dreary and uninhabited parts of d»e country, where they fall instantly a prey and food for the ravenous wolf. The domestic rein-deer that the Laplanders have live constantly in the ojK'n air, never coming under roof, and feed in the Huininer on grass, and on lichen in winter. But the Norwegian pciisants, some of whom dwell near the river of Alten, famous for salmon, use the rein-deer as draft cattle in the place of horses, keep them the whole of winter un- der shelter, and feed them with wSitc muse, which they gather, not as hay, with a scythe, but with a kind of spade, adapted for the purpose. '1 he rein-deer arc very fond of hu- man urine, from the quantity of salt in it ; hence no sooner do they see it, than they hasten up in order toclrink, and if on the snow, they tii*yit up, to get at it. They range at large about the plains, searching for mushrooms aril mice, in Norwegian called Le- maenner,in Lapland language Godde-Saeppan,a descripiion of which I have given in chap- ter the twelfth, on the wild beasts of Finmark. They eat off the heads of the mice and greedily devour them, throwing away the rest of them. As the ground is covered with snow, they very seldom drink water, satisfied with the snow alone to quench their thirst. The rein-deer in the sledge inclines his head to the ground to take up a little snow for allaying thirst, which the Laplanders express in their language, Muottagiit Gadzut, that is, to drink snow. That snares are ever laid for the rein-deer by wolves is evident enough : to keep these off, the Laplanders expose old rags, and beams covered with rags, and other terrors of this kind. But ...ver is the danger greater to the herd, than when the tempest is setting in, for then this most savage animal furiously attacks them; so that the Laplander, if he has fixed his habitation in a place infested by wolves,, is compelled, together with his whole family, to b«i continually on the watch, if he wishes to preserve his herds. The domestics come out by turns, to strike against the sledge with a stick, that the enemy, ACCOUNT or DANNII I.API.ANU IIV L»'.».Mk. 4(>J icrrilkd l>^' the muwA, may Ik- tlrivcn from the cattK-. And iiulotil so much constant and snpcrmtt ndinijf (arc do the miHtrahk' rcindirr really stand in need ol", who ate not only wi.ik, hut c vc-n ntupid, to their own ruin, aminsl their crafty invader, that they pie- Sf.nt iheniHelves to him as the enemy ; for no sooner do they nmcll the wolf, than all, as n>any as are, rist np, takinf^ flinht, not when' the wolf is, but to another (piarter, when they would b< St considt for their safety, did llu y remain in ([uiet round the cot ; ilu: treacherous invader, as he well remarks it, pursues thetn as they fly, and nuserahly kilU llu in. The domestics heurinf( of the sudden flight of the rein-deer which lie .ilxnit the cot, and of their iK'ing v attered through the plains, easily infer that the wolf is not at a ^;reat distance, and readily hrin^ assistance, yet usually too late for the herd, who has already suflered. Should u wolf meet a rein-deer in the meadows, not far from his dwelliiifr, and hhould perceive that he is making for the hut, he cunnin^;ly strives to prevent his reaching it, and forces him to make for the forest, where, at his will, and without the fear of any assistance being brought to him, he invailes his prey. The wolf very rarely comes up with the rein-deer H) ing up the hills ; it is wh(;n running down the declivities he overtakes him most easily. Should he only lav hold of him by the loins with his grine, but lose him when wounded, he seldom, and with difficulty, lays hold of him again, escaped from his claws, usually evaded by the swiftness of the wounded i*ein-deer; but if he does, hechoaks him, by laying hold of him by the throat. I myself have seen six rrin-deer together, whom, near the col, the wolf has strangled, but alarmed by the sudden coming up of the men, hud not lorn ; so that when their carcasses lay stretched upon the snow without sign of lifcv but sound and unhurt in ap- i)earunce, for the wolf had so artificially killed lliem, that by intvrcepling '.!:.".. breath he did not leave the least mark of a mortal wound. The wolves do not devour the carcass in the place it is kilUd in, but dragged elsewhere ; and what is truly surprising, they so place the carcass they ure going to devour, that the head should be to the east, and the tail to the west, which jxisition it is manifest, from the remaining skeletons, they never neglect. The crows arc attendants, if I may so express myself, on the devouring wolves, who, led by the hope of prey, always and everywhere accompany thtm ; and hence the Laplanders learn from their croaking that the wolf is not far oft'. The wolves themselves, after they have made a slaughter, and put the carcasses underground, usually set up a howling. Those of the rein-dccr, a little more spirited, boldly oppose them, selves to the wolf, and sometimes repel the invader, of which I remember a remarkable instance. A certain Laplander of the mountains, from the bay of Porsanger, by name Mads Pedersen, that is, Matthias, son of Peter, had a male rein-deer without horns : two wolves attacked it in the night, but with little success, for on the next day the marks of the contest were visible in the snow ; by which it most clearly appeared that the con- (juering rein-dcer had overthrown both the wolves, and that they had consulted their safety by flight. The rein-deer, though he withdrew from the contest as superior in it, was found, having exhausted his strength, at some little distance from the place of con- test, dead. The wolf generally spares the rein-deer, if tied up ; but if terrified, he ex- tricates himself from his fastenings, and takes flight, he instantly pursues the fugitive, and, unless through swiftness he escapes the enemy, miserably k'"** him. But by no probable argument is it proved, though some have with too mucii confidence affirmed it, that wolves most eagerly thirst after the blood of a pregnant rein-dcer, and that they prefer the slaughter of it to that of men ; a property of this is ascribed elsewhere to bears, by those who are learned in natural history. Besides these, in the manage ment of the rein-deer among the Laplanders, the follow, ing are to be noticed. The Laplanders impress a mark on the ears of their rein-deer, 3 F 2 I $ d' .4 •- I 404. ACCOUNT OP DANISfl LAPLAND BV LERMS that each may be enabled hy it to distinguish his own. They take care tliat the rein- deer, lest tlicy may be scattered, and thus carried out of the way and into pathless places, should be led within the space of every civil day twice to the cot to rest, and twice into the forest to pasture, which they repeat continually night and diy, not intermitting it even ill .he middle of winter, when each night, from the setting sun to day-break, contains at least sixteen hours. Nor is there any one, I think, who is but slightly skilled in the prin- ciples of astronomy, to whom it is unknown, ihat the sun in that climate altogether re- cedes from the hoiizon for seven weeks together, and that, lying imder the lower hemis- phc'v.-, ItHves for full day but the twilight of a few hours ; which yet is not so dark, with a pure and serene air. but you can do without a candle from ten in the morning to one at noon fo '.vriting and other business of this sort, even when the days arc shortest. And since the siui, as mentioned above, altogether draws off its light from the horizon of that zone at u certain i ason of the year, it is "asily inferred that the lesser stars are visible on the shortest diiys about noon, ar.d that the moon itself shines not only by nighty but all the day. After the space of seven weeks the sun returns, to restore that delightful light to man a.id beast, as it were with usury ; for the day in a short time takes such and so great an increase, ut the oeginuing of April, that the whole darkness of the night begins to disappti-r. And astlic winter's sun withdraws its light for the whole space of seven weeks, and make^ the day at its shortest ; so the sum)ner's sun, in cum, repairs that loss, the nocturnal and diurnal light lasting for the space oL* as knany weeks : where it is to be well obs^^rved, that tlie nocturnal light of th": sun is much more dull and remiss than the diurnal, and that the sun itself by night has a reddish appeal oiice. But I now return to the rein-deer. Led home to rest, they He down about the cottage, and when down form accurately a full circle. The watch dogs, of which some are named Kiepros, others Gonsak, others by other names, are employed in driving the rein-deer into the woods and meadows, to pasture. They run about in the pastures here and there, remov- ing the snow by their heels, if any, in order to get at the muse that is under ; they are under the care of herdamen, without regard to time and season, whether good or bad. But though the shepherds take the greatest care of their herds, yet it happens sometimes, that when th^y are sheltering themselves behind large heaps of snow, where, driven by the vioknce of the tempest, they sometimes retire, when overtaken with sleep, one or two rein-deer str.iyl.ig from the rest of the herd fall the prey of the watching and invading wolf. The care and duty of feeding and guarding the herd properly belongs to the children and servants of the family ; yet I have knowTi a married woman, who, not hav- i»g cither servants, or a grown up family, to whom the care of feeding the cattle could be committed, she herself undertook the duty of pasturing, and having a sucking infant at her breast, was obliged to carry it with her into the woods and pathless haunts, whilst the sky ;v^., all over darkened with snow and hail as thick as possible. The rein-deer are brought home from pasture by the assistance of dogs ; nor could they be otl-erwise gathered, as, feeding at large through the meadows, they go separated at considerable dis- tances from one anothtr. The watch dogs are so instructed, that they obey the nod alone, the fi5)ger of the herdsmen ; hence the rein-deer, admonished on the sight of the dogs, instantly will collect themselves in herJfi : when collected by the help of dogs, they are driven to the cot by the herdsmen. In 'i^inter the father of the family, or his wife, examining ©!• this side, and on that, usually surveys the whole herd, now fed, and disposed round the cot to rest, to see if the whole are safe : whether any have strayed, or fullena prey to the wolf. There are Laplpjidcrs who are masters of six hundred, and sometimes of a greater number of rein-deer ; ta these it is difficult to know wheer any one from so gireat a number has gone astray. i ACCOUNT or DANISM LAPLAND 1)Y LEEMS. 406' It appears then to be a custom among the Laplanders of the mountains, that the herds of rein-deer are for the whole cf the winter season alt'?niately led to ))asturc and home to rest; but in summer, the castrated deer, together with young steers and heifers, have tlic range of the woods and mountains free, and without the controul of the he rdsmen. During summer certain female rein-deer have the freedom lo range at large for some hours with their udders clean and free, from filth by the Lapland women, to whom this care is consigned, to the end that tV' young should have a full opportimity of suckmg. Af. terwards they are driven into a fold, at the distance of some paces from the cot, which is made from the green branches of trees fresh cut, where the women, whose business it is to besmear the udders of each of them with rein-deer dung, taken out from a little case made from the bark cf the birch-tree, which they usually carry und' r, the girdle ; which when done, they come out to pasture again for some hours. ^ the fence is opened, when the young is repulsed from sucking, on account of the i.dder, which is now besmeared with dung. They now again compel the female rein-det^r within the said fence for some hours at pasture with swollen udders, and washing off the dung they milk them ; which custom for some days is practised with the greatest care. There are young who disregard the besmearing of the udders, whose mouths are gagged, as to take away all power from them of sucking their dams. A Lapland woman, when going to milk a rein-deer, knowing it to be a wild one, and that it would with difficulty come to the milking-pail, keeps at a distance of a few paces from it, and flings the rope, the extremities of which she held in her hand, over its horns, which when the rein-deer per- ceives she stands still, and lets the milker instantly approach her. Though they do not come up even to goats, in the quantity of milk they yield, yet such is^the number of them, that there is neither a deficiency of milk nor cheese. A wooden log is put or: the neck "^ the rein-deer, to prevent their straying from the flock, by ninning up and down, and which is an impediment to them 'a running. He is governed by a rein made from the skin of a seal, so that one end of the rein may be fastened to the head of the animal, but the other may be in the hand of the leader, whom the rein-deer follows, with a little distance between. They are managed by these reins also >vhen drawing the sledge. The Laplander, when castrating his rein-deer, does not take out the testicles, as is usually done, by cutting open the flesh, but, applying his mouth, bruises them at onrc. The name of the castrated rein-deer changes with his years ; when two years old, it is Vareek, four years, Goddodas, five year ,, it is Kuoistus-haerge, six years, Makan ; but from the seventh year of his age he is called Namma Lapak, that is, completer or finisher of his name, for from that rime he no more changes his name. The Laplander fastens by a rope the rein deer to a trunk that he is going to kill, which when done, he comes up to him and sticks his breast with the knife, soon after repeating the blow. The rein-tfecr, struck with the blow of the knife, makes some turns, until he drops on his back on the ground, where, when he has lain for a quarter of an hour, the butcher comes up to strip off the hide. Not a drop of blood comes from the blow of the knife, but the whole mass makes for the entrails, where it is afterwards drawn out, infused and preserved in the paunch of the animal. The hide, when taken off, is stretched on tender hooks, such as we see used in the smokii:g of salmon. That part of the skin which goes round the feet of animals, before the body is strip- ped, is taken off, aiid stuffed with shavings, that it should the more readily dry. The mountain Laplander, reduced to distress,* delivers up the few re.n-deer that re- main to him to other mountun Laplanders, to be protected and taken care of; he him i . ■J ^t f 40G ACCOUNT OF DANISH LAl'LAM) HY LEIiMH. self, with his whole family, emigrates to the sea-coast, where, mingling with the muri. time inhabitants, he gains a livelihood for himself and family by fishing. From what has been largely mentioned, it is clear that the herds of Laplanders con- sist of tame rein-deer. It happens but very seldom, that a tame or domestic rein-deer, getting by accident among tne wild, contracts the ferocity of this new society ; but it is accident, and, as I have just said, very rare. It also happens, especially in the antiimn, at the time of year when this animal is most incensed with desires, that a wild rein-deer will mingle with a herd of tame, but that it is usually at the expence of life, for, when seen, the Laplanders beset and shoot him. The wild rein-deer, thus mingled with the tame, now and then gets the opportunity of coupling with the tame female. The fruit of this embrace is called a mongrel, resembling neither sire nor dam in every respect, for he is less in size than the wild, and greater than the tame ; for the wild ever exceed the tame in the bulk of their undies. But those born of parents of unequal sizes are called Baevi-ek, by the natives. CHAP. X OF THE CARRIAGES, AND M AN.VER OF DRIVING, IN USE AMONG THE LAPLANDERS. THE more opulent among the Laplanders make use of no other beasts of carriage than castrated rein-deer ; but those of poorer condition, whose circumstances an; narrow and contracted, are obliged to employ females. The rein-deer destined for this purpose, to \ie made fit for the yoke and vehicle, is to be well broken in oy much practice. At ..st it presents itself untractable and restive, one time kicking up his heels wantonly, at another obstinately lying on the ground, whence he will not get up, unless beaten, and not slightly, with the whip and club, over the nose. Some are even so in- docile, that they will admit of no discipline whatever, for, when yoked to a vehicle, they suffer themselves by no means to be governed, but, turning themselves this way and that way, they make a winding path, not unlike to a bending serpent. There are others which are much more easily broken in, and become so tractable by the discipline they receive, that in the carriage they so slightly bound, as is seen from their track marked in the snow. The Laplanders call die harness that ornaments the head of the rein-deer Baggie. The rein by which he is guided, while driven, is not, as is usual in riding-horses, double, but single, and simple, nor passed through the mouth of the beast, but v.un one of its extremities fastened to his head, while the driver holds the other in hand. A large collar surrounds the neck of th2 animal, in the place of a trace, made up from the rough rein -deer's hide ; to the border of this collar is fastened a long thong, twisted, from die skin of the seal or ox, which, running along the belly of the animal, is brought between the fore and hinder legs directly to the yoke of the sledge, where it is fastened to a stick for the purpose, called in Lapland Jnkko, and to a small rib- bon, called Jukko-Lauvzhie. By means of this twisted thong the rein-deer draws the sledge, which, lest in driving it may fret the legs of the animal, is covered with a hairy skin. Beside that larger collar, of which I have just now spoken, there is another less in size, called in Lapland Riesegas, for ornamenting sometimes the neck of the rein-deer of carriage ; it is made of cloth, or texture of Kersey, ornamented with threads of tin, and bordered with woollen fillets. This kind of collar, which is not used by all, nor at all times, is entire in the upper part and sides, but below, under the colhr;, it is open, to be closed with a thong when occasion calls for it ; from this part too hangs a bell. I AWOINT OF DANISH LAPLAND BY LBBMS. 407 I The belly of the rein-deer is girt round with a broad bch, called in Lapland Aagotas, the outer part of which, touching the belly of the animal, is leather, but the upper, which comes round each side and the back itself, is of cloth outside, or texture of ker- sey, adorned with threads of tin, the leather being turned in. The lower part of the belt is ornamented with broad fillets of cloth of kersey, drawn into a variety of bend ings or spirals, partly of the colour of the girt itself, and partly of a colour different from it. This girt is an entire piece from the belly te the back, where it is fastened by four small ribbons, on the extremities of which arc crests, made from shreds of different co- luured cloth, which display themselves, for the greater ornament of the girt. But that these are merely ornamental, and used for that purpose alone, is evident, that, when the king's treasurer, together with his wiite, Swedish merchants, and other young Laplan- ders of quality, wore these, they generally dressed the cattle on which they rode after this manner. Meantime these girts so frequently praised among them are not without theii- use , for those that gird the middle of the belly have in them small apertures, through which the ropes, by which the rein-deer drew their sledges, pass, with this view, that they may not while drawing stagger, or the vehicle be too much shaken. The Aago- tas, or girt of this sort, yet is not much in use ;
vinding and rolling into a variety of spirals. When the Laplander is in haste, entering on his 1'ourney, he does not idly, as at other times, sit in his sledge, but falls on his knees, f he wants to stop, in driving, the rein is tlirown from the right side to the left, and there rest's ; /hen done, the rein-deer instantly stops. Should it happen, that any one is insufficient alone for the management of the animal which draws him, as being too untractable and unmanageable in the course, he then gives the rein to h'ls friend next before him, which he fastens to his sledge, and in this manner he draws the driver together with his rein-deer and sledge after him. And since the rein-deer who draws, as mentioned above, draws the sledge by a single slender and loose rein, it necessarily follows that the animal, going through declivities, cannot post with such speed, but the sledge, as slippery and full on its way, must be borne with a greater celerity, so that it must either strike on the hinder feet of the rein- deer, or even out>strip him in speed ; to remedy this inconvenience, as it sometimes happens, another rein-deer is fastened to the sledge behind, by a rein put over his horns, lest by too much haste it may incommode the animal that draws, who will be retarded by the resistance and efforts of the other. There are rein-deer who, thus put behind, so far are they from retarding the swiftness of the sledge, willingly follo\\ing it, aid and incite It as it spontaneously moves on. Others are of such adispusition, so obstinate and perverse, that after the first experiment they are rejected. Riding through hills that are not so steep, there is no need of this method of check- ing the sledge, as the driver himself, by a certain motion of his body, and a certain expertness in drawing, can easily direct the sledge in which he sits which way he pleases. But when he has to travel through places almost steep, and well nigh broken into precipices, it is usual then to join to the sledge a rein-deer, and when thus joined to, negligendy &sten him to the Hinder part of the sledge, leaving the sledge to its free course, where chance shall carry it. Parcels in the said sledges, called Raido-kierres, are thus carried : the driver of the sledges sits first in order ; another rein-deer follows bearing the second sledge, fastened by a rein to the first : then a third, fourth, and sometimes more, each carrying his own sledge, following in like order. The driver who sits in the first regulates all follow- ing in order. Some one rebi-deer closes the troop without a sledge, but following for the purpose, that if the occasion should call for it, he should check, by his effort, all the sledges running with too much celerity along the declivities, as mentioned above. It sometimes, and but sometimes, happens that the snow increases to that height, that the rein-deer cannot break through them, on his way. I have been myself earried through snow, so high, that they have equalled the back of the animal, and not seldom, by wliich it is easy to be judged, that travelling is at such a time very slow and gradual. CHAP. XI....OF THE JOURNIES OF THE LAPLANDERS. THE Laplanders of the coast change their habitations only twice a year, in the spring and autumn. When changing their abode they do not take down their huts, as tht; mountaineers, but only forsake them for a time, until they may return. The mountaineers on the contraiy, just as the ancient Scythians, mcnUoned in history, have VOL. I. > 3 c 1; 410 ACrOtJXT OF DANISH LAPLAND HY LRKMS ; i« done, and as the Arabs and Tartars do to this day, arc ever changeable, vagrant, and not contented with the same situation and place long together. The mountain Lap- lander takes himself, together widi his whole family, and the herd of rcin-deer, to the coasts and borders that lie nearest the sea in the midst of summer. But when the autumn is coming on, he retreats again with his cot, his rein-deer and family, to the mountains, slowly and by degrees; for ^tting on his way, and having moved scarcely the distance of a mile, he stops, and going on the next day, he only ad- vances one mile, which he docs every day until the winter, now at hand, after passing the creeks a distance of five, six, or about seven miles from the sea, he has penetrated to the very confines of Swedish Lapland ; where, when he has at length arrived, he stops, but not so as to preven' his moving with his cot and rein-deer from one wood and hill to another, as necessity should require. On the approach of spring, he returns in the same manner to the sea coast, but slowly, and, as just said, step by step, until he has arrrived with his family in that place, where he has determined to remain the whole summer. On the aides of the roads, through which he is to travel, he takes care that a number of little offices should be built, in which he puts up his provisions and furniture, which, during winter, he draws out, when he pleases, and when it is necessary, for himself and his family. When the mountain Laplander is preparing for a journey from the coast to the mountains, at the end of the autumn, he usually kills some rein-deer at this season, which are very well fattened, and lays up in his house, which he has for the purpose, the meat, in order, that on his return in spring, by the same road, he may have pro- vision for himself and his family. The mountain Laplander in the spring, summer, and autumn seasons of the year, when travelling over the plains, now clear and bare from the snows, with his family and rein-deer, travels on foot, having put the cot, with its timber and furniture, and other baggage, on the backs of the rein-deer ; if the mother happens to have an infant at her breast, she carries it on her back, put up in a hcllovv piece of wood, called in Lapland, Gieed'k, which I have described above in chapter the eighth, on the furniture of the LapUr.rk'rs. The herds of rein-deer, on their way, as at other times, are managed by their keepers. The mountain Laplander, travelling in the winter season through plains covered with thick snows, before he begins his journey takes u:^<'n his cot, the planks of which this building chiefly consists, the covering drawn over u, the timber of the floor, the fire stones, he takes with him, with the view, lest the want of materials of this kind should render the place into which he is disposed to emigrate incommodious to him ; but he usually flings away the branches with which the floor is covered, cutting down in the place he erects his cot new ones in their place. The cot, with all its materials, is put into a single sledge, called in Lapland Guatte- Kierres, which by the help of a single rein-deer, an animal neither so ^rear nor robust, is drawn through the thickest snows, whence it is easy to be inferred that the cot itself, with all its furniture, is of small size and consideration. The mother puts the infant, before the husband enters on his journey, into a hollow piece of wood, Gieed'k, mentioned before, slightly covered with woollen clothes, yet with that precaut'on, that a small aperture may be open before the mouth of the child, by ^vhich he may breathe freely. Their own baggage is carried also in the sledge. The husband himself goes on first, and leads on the troop. The mother manages the sledge in which the infant is, who, ACCOUNT 01' DANISH LAPLANI) «Y LEEMS 4U should it begin to cry much, instantly stops the sledge, and getting at the side of it on her knees, gives her breast to the babe through the aperture I have just mentioned, re- gardless of the severity of cold or snow. The children, with the rest of the family, manage and take care of the herds of the rcin-deer. In what manner the baggage is carried has been described in chapter the tenth, eoncernitig the kinds of carriage among the Laplanders. It is wonderful, and scarcely credible, unless one had seen it, that the Laplander, travelling in winter over vast mountains and trackless haunts, especially at that seasou when all nature is covered and whitened with a constant snow, to a degree that neither the stones nor the least part of the earth can L'J seen, nor any other trace of human cul- ture, and when the snows, agitated by the winds and whirled in circles, take away all use of sight, can find his way to his destined place, and without mistake. What I am relating 1 write from experience ; for, indeed, it happened to me not rarely, either that through clouds of mist and darkness, with which the snow driven round in a whirlwind darkened my sight, that I could not see the be;ist by which I was drawn, on whieh oc- casion trusting to the Divine guidance, and the faith of the driver, after the manner of the blind, I suffered myself to be carried, not knowing where I was going, But it appears from experience, that neither enormous heaps of snow, nor the horrid diu-kness of the night, can obstruct travellers from arriving safe and without error at their place of destination. They usually hang bells from the necks of their rein-deer cf carriage, that if they should not distinguish by sight, they might at least know eac'i other from hearing. They follow the wind too, if it is not veering, as a guide, so that if the place they are going to is to the south, and that the wind should arise in this quarter, they begin their journey directly in the teeth of this wind ; if it is a south-west wind, they go in such a manner as to have the wind on their right hand ; if it is to the cast, they contrive to have it on the left. Should they chance to see the stars shining on the way^ they direct their couree, with confidence, by the northern star. For though the Laplanders have never learned the science of the stijrs, yet they know the various stars and their situation, and designate them by certain names : for instance the Pleiades in Lapland are called Nieid-Gjerrcg, that is, a company of virgins ; the fishes in the zodiac Oaaggo, that is, the fisher ; the morning stiir is Guouvso Naste ; another star, Saiva, that is, the male rein-deer, others by different names. As it is assigned to Divine Providence, and to it alone, that a ship in the midst of tem- pests, among threatening waves, quicksands, and shoals, and darkened clouds, shall be unhurt, so it is no less an argument of the protecting care of the Deity, that a hu- man bein^ shall pass safe, and secure, through pathless haunts, through mountains covered with constant snows, through the perpetual attacks of hail, of snow and whirl- winds, forming themselves as in a troop in the very face of the traveller, and drawing on a darkness thicker than the most darksome night. For those, who are obliged to travel, discover themselves so often surrounded by precipices and high mountains, that if they should err in the least from the way, they would necessarily run into the most imminent danger of tlieir life ; a melancholy instance of which truth, we have had not long ago in one Siver Henrikson, of the Lapland youth, then in Porsanger, while I was mi^isionary at the same place, who, when driving, struck his breast against a tree in the way, by turning a little out of the course, which occasioned his sudden death, which fol- lowed ihree days afterwards. The Laplander is furnished on every journey through winter with utensils for lighting a fire, a steel, a flint, tinder and sulphur, all of which he carries in his bosom, inclosed in a bag, or little box, in order that when there is occasion he may kindle a fire or light liis tobacco pipe. For it happens, and that not seldom, what I myself experienced morr. 3 G 2 4V2 ACCOUNT OP DANISM LAPLAND HY LEKMH. i hS than once, that travellers, obstructed either by the thickness '^f the snows or Icnfi^h ol the way, are obliged to puss whole nights under tlic open air. Whenever this happens, the Lapland traveller erects a small tent, made of very coarse linen, which he always has at hand, on the snow, and lightinjr a Gre refreshes his body. In winter, whenever occu- pied in religious affairs, or engaged in any oUier bubincss, they tie the rein-deer that draws them to a tree or trunk not fiir from them in the wood. On the maritime excursions of Laplanders nothing occurs which can long detain the curious reader. It is sufficient just to mention, that they always have a tinder-box with them, and when the occasion requires it, they can light a fire and their pipe of nicotiaiie, or get ready their meal ; for they are ever ready, if they happen to catch a fish, imme- diately to land on the next coast to them, and lighting a fire between two stones, whkh they.choosc for diis use, and hanging the pot by a pole, with each end propped on each stone the fire place is made of, boil the fish they have caught. In the same manner they prepare meat for themselves from the otter or any other wikl beast they might kill on the way. From what has been hitherto narrated, it is abundandy manifest that the state and condition of this nation is, beyond description, restless and hard ; but since the sufferers are accustomed to this kind of life from their childhood, they are held by so great a love of their native soil, that scarce any other nadon, enjoying the most happy and munifi. cent bounty, can equal them : in confirmation of this assertion it will be sadsfiictory to read the following history. When his majesty the king, of most glorious memory, Christian the Sixth, on his journey which he undertook through the kingdom of Norway m the year 1733, had stopped at the gulf of Aalesund, in the division of the province of Sundmoer, he honoured me most humanely, through the favour of Andrew Ro> senpalm, admiral of the fleet, and a most worthy gendeman, with an audience on the twenty-ninth of July ; which day, as it was to me most propitious and de»rable, so shall its remembrance never fall from me. It was agreeable to nis most rcyal mujesty to propound various questions concerning the mission to Lapland, on merchandise, and other matters rcsiiecting Finmurk, and in his goodness, truly royal, to hear my humble answers, and then to mark with his royal hand, which I humbly repeat, the name of his most liege sul)ject in his diary, in sign and token of future promotion, after the ten years ministry in Lapland. His majesty then enjoined on me that I should most humbly take care, that as soon as possible some of the young men of Lapland should be sent to him at court. I obeyed, as I should, the commands of my sovereign ; but who could imagine that any person could be found who would refuse so munificent a condition ? But all did refuse. At lengdi a young man, whose name was Nicholas Peterson Korsnaes, with some diffi. culty suffered himself to be prevailed upon to go to Copenhagen. This young man was of a middling stature and figure. There were others who could have recommended them- selves by stature and comeliness in a greater degree, among whom was a young man from the gulf of Alten, of no common degree of manly beauty among that people, whom I endeavoured to prevail on, by loading him with promises, to go to Copenhagen, and would have succeeded without doubt, had not his mother opposed it toodi and nail, who, at that time pregnant, came to me, assuring me in form, that it would be a scruple of conscience to mc should I rend from her the only and dearly beloved son she had, and that I should suffix for it in the just judgment of God, if any accident had consequendy befallen her, and the birth near its dme, through grief. But I return to Nicolas Peterson. As soon as he arrived at Copenhagen he was, for his condition, indulgently received, and handsomely entertained by his majesty. He was dressed in costly clotnes, whose bor- ders and lower extremities were distinguished by silver trimmings, yet ornamented in the Lapland fashion. The bonnets in common use among the Laplanders are trimmed ACCOL'NT OF DANISH LAI'LAND l»Y LKKMS. •U3 with a border from the skin of the otter ; but the cup of this youth was ortuimcntcd with ii fringe of silk velvet, of black colour, with a facing of the same, illustrated with the name of Christian the Sixth, in silver ornament. But this pros|KTity was not durable ; for on the approaching autumn, and the fall of the year, he fell sick, and died on the begin- ning of the following year. The cause of so sudden a death without doubt is to be sought for in so sudden a change of air and food : for he who at home was used to drink of one spring, and that cold, and subsist on the congealed milk of rein-deer and such food, now regiUed abroad with wine and dainties, could not bear this unusual and sudden change without danger of life ; according to that very melancholy saying, every sudden change is hurtful. The body was honourably interred at the king's expence, and the clothes his majesty ordered him to be dressed in were sent to Lapland to his parents, that under their wretchedness they should recall the memory and once happy condition of their deceased son to their consolation. When, as above mentioned, I had to pay my profound respects to his majesty, at the time he happened to come to the gulf of Aalesund, in the province of Sundmoer, I had arrived there, for the purpose; of miurying Sophia Aletha Uuberg, three weeks before his majesty. I had at that time in my family a Lapland young man, of the name of Pe- ter Jonsen, who had so recommended himself to the attention of the high admiral, Ros- enpalm, that he was disposed to take him to Copenhagen and put him among his rowers: and as the youth had capacity, his highness took care that he should be taught writing and arithmetic: when taught, he sent him to the East Indies, to acquire, under a skilfiil seaman, a knowledge of nautical affairs ; but returning from India he fell sick, and died at Copenhagen. CHAP. XII OF THE WILD BEASTS AND BIRDS OF FINMARK, AND OF THE MODES OF CATCHING THEM, USED AMONG THE LAPLANDERS. AS many writers, versed in natural histoiy, have long since employed their time as diligently as successfully in investigating and describing the properties of the nature of ?uadrupeds and birds, it would appear superfluous here to resume the same subject, 'ostponing that consideration, I propose to mention some of the modes and arts which the Laplanders use in taking them, and also something of the singular qualities of certain quadrupeds and birds, and other matters belonging to them. Most of the kinds of quadrupeds, of a wild nature, which arc found up and down through Norway, Finmark produces in no small number ; which advantage of their country the Laplanders know well to turn to their own use. But it is to be particularly noticed, that the inhabitants of the mountains, abounding above the rest in a great quan- tity of rein-deer, have very seldom leisure for the chace, nor is there need they should, when they are so very much occupied in watching and pasturing their herds ; and they can well forego this laborious and unquiet mode of life, furnished as they are besides with an abundance of those things they have use of. Finmark both produces and breeds a great number of wild rein-deer : these, called Godde by the inhabitants, by far exceed the tame ones in the bulk of the body. The Laplander going out to hunt, in summer and autumn, the rein-deer, takes with him hi well scented and sagacious dog, ^ -hom, as a guide 'hat will not deceive him, he follows, hunting by the scent, until he cc mes up in view to the wild rein-deer. On the sight of the animal he muzzles the dog, lest he should frighten him by barking. Should the bullets he uses, when first shot, not kill him, but only mortally wound him, he drives the dog, now fi*eed from the chf 'n and muzzle, on him as he flies, who stopping now and then in his speed, in order tc defend himself with his horns against the dog, is shot at and killed by the Laplander, who makes good use of the opportunity. During au- i. S 1\ 414 AfX'nUM 0¥ DANIHII LAI'I.^NU RY LKIMI> 1^ tiimn, when the rein.dccr meet r)r th<* purpose ol" procixatioii, the i^nplaiuiir pfocs with some of his ri ill (IccT, tanu-d for that ioti-iit, when- Ik known that thi- wild ones nu it, und there faslcnin}; sonic to trvcs with halt( rs, sufl'i rinjr others to stray ut hirj^e, he pla- CCH himself in anihnsh. The wild rein.dccr, sccntinj; tlu- lemulcs, instantly Hies tothtm, hut falls a prey to the Laplander lying in wait for him. it hap|Kns sometimes that two at once come : these, sharply contendin^jr for the iemale, rush in on each other with their horns, with commonly no other termination of (heir contcbt, than that each of the cum- pctitors should fall under the arms of (he Laplander. The Laplander, when h(mtinf( the wild rein-deer in winter, closely follows the traces of the straying; animal until he comes up in view of her : on seeing her, he fastens the rein-deer of his sledge to the next trt'c, instantly on foot to pursue. In sonie parts of Lapland wild rein-deer arc taken in the following manner ; the snows being collected in such heaps that the rein-deer cannot get over them, and the outside of these heaps so incrustcd with ice as to hreak under the tread of one of tliem, but yet able to bear the weight of a man with wocxlen shoes, the Laplander, furnished with such shoes, goes out to hunt the rein-deer, who, while running over '.he snow lightly incrustcd, and disappoint- ing his Hte|)s, gets entangled. In this state he cannot escape the hunter, coming swiftly in his wooden shoes upon him by his accustomed celerity, but, transfixed with the hunt- ing sjxjar, Ixicomes his prey. The taking of the rein-deer is eflccted in other places by the following method : in places where the said l)easts usually range, a certain o|x;ning, like a gate, is made, in which a loop is hung, made of the thicker Hbres taken from the sinewy parts of the rein-deer ; this the animal, straying without caution, and fearing no- thing, enters by chance, and instantly falls into tJie snare. In certain tracts of Lapland the rein-deer were taken wild formerly, in this manner : a very high inclosurc was erect- ed from a piling of a great deal of wood, two greater arms or horns alternately projecting themselves, so that a great space should be open between the extremities of cacn arm, but l)ehind so gradually coming together, as to terminate in n narrow aperture, in the ap- pearance of a narrow gate. VVhen this inclosurc was ready, the hunting, when an op. portunity offered, was proposed, and in this very manner : the wild rein-deer were com- pelled into the inclosurc by a space lying open between the two arms that were separated, who, the farther they went in by flight, the nearer were they to the inwarc' extremities of the said inclosurc, where these separated arms again united in the form of a narrow gate, from whence they neither would nor could easily get back, lest pressed fri m behind they should tall among the hunters. A way out through the said narrow open ig was thei-e- forc to be sought by them in this miserable plight, which, when found with difficulty, a stooping hill soon presented itself, along which tney ran in a precipitate manner, when a new inclosurc again presented itself, which seeing they could not get over, nor, by reason of the steepness of the hill, pass without difficulty, were forced to surrender. This mode of catching rein-deer was formerly in use among the Varangriens, who even from that kind of chace arc held to pay a tribute of nine rein-deers, or, in defect of rein-deer, as many fox skins, to the king's governor of the castle of VVardhuis. It was usual also among the Laplanders, formerly, that they should tVive the rein-deer they proposed to take into the next nearest lake, having placed men on the farther bank to attack them when swimming over. It is related by some one, that the women of Lapland are not less addicted to hunting Uian die men ; this I never observed, and never even heard a word of. There are no deer nor elks in Finmark. That an elk, as a certain writer lays down, much J ields to the rein-deer in size is very false ; for it is sufficiently well known that one elk, of just size, at least equals three full grown reiu'deer, and those the largest of their kind, in the bulk of the body. Accmrsr or dani.hii lai'i.wii iiv i.ki;m« a 1 a (on de liat as ISO to im lOt a I'n, at of 415 Hnrcs arc bred in p;r<;it rumihrrH in Finm;irk. TIiIh wild animal is nillod by snww of the- inhabitants of Norway Tasc, but b) tlu Liiplandris Njaanul. H.iivs ff)uiiil in this tract of country during winter, are of a wlult- colour, but in snininir of a gn»y, us they un* chcwhoa-. HcsidcH the gini, ihc most iibtial instrmutnt of killing; wild animil.s, other mctluKls and arts arc in use for catchinji; hares. In those places where hurcs usually haunt, snares, constnictcd from small sticks and cords artificially ^xit toj^lhcr, ore fixed in ttic (ground, in which the hares, straying without caution and ireely amonj; the trees, fre*iuently run into the trap, and arc tuken. 'I'hey arc cmii^ht too by u certain iron machine, ticscribed in another place. 'I'he Russians pay for each harcV* skin eight iK'ncc The Swedes arc said to make co\crlets from these kinds of skins. In Finmark, not less than through the remaining tmcts of Norway, are found Ixars. The l)car in Lapland is called Guouzhia, the word denoting the male and female of this animal. But the Laplanders also distinguish the niidc and female ; the male is Acnak, the fcmale is Acste ; the Norwegians generally say Bingse. The rein-deer easily escape the Jjcars by thcfleetncss of running ; cows, goats and sheep are much moir cx|)osed to their cruelty and rapacity. That the Laplanders of Indragria, in Sweden, were compelled to bury the Ixxlies of their deceased frie'ids in certain little islands, scattered in the lake of Indra- fjria, lest they should be a prey to the voracity of lx?ars, has been handed down to us, but lor the truth of th#; relation I cannot answer, relating only what I have heard. 'I'he bear is wonderfully delighted with certain blue iK-rries, in Norwegian called Blaabaer, a great abundance of which is found in this country : but he uho feeds on grass. The Laplanders in common shoot their Ixars with grooved guns, which art only in use among them. If the bear does not fall with the first bullet, but is only wounded, he in- stantly returns, to take vengeance for himself, and often not without eiiect. But these wild beasts arc taken not with shooting alone, but by other modes and stratagems. It is a matter well known and ascertained through the regions of the north, that the bear, during the winter, lies concealed in his den, and that he is there sustained by no other aliment than a certain milky juice, which he sucks from his fore paws with a growling. It not seldom occurs, that the Laplander going to hunt birds, squirrels, and other g-ame in the woods, accidentally falls on the haunt of a bear laid up for the winter, by the assist- ance and guidance of his hunting dog, standing and barking at the den he has found out by the scent. The Laplander observing this, puts in the bow with which he de- signs to kill birds (for bows, it appears, are in use as vet in some of the countries ofLapland) to the ajx^rture or door of the den, while the bear is still carelessly at rest, and not attempting to come out. He then cuts off branches from the fir-tree, if at hand, if not, from any others in lis way, by which he shuts up the mouth of the den, drawing out first his bow with cai tion, yet in such a manner that it should not be alto- gether closed up, as there must be a small aperture for the bear to nut his head through. Things thus arranged, the Laplander, armed with an axe, plants himself before the door of the den, in order to irritate the bear by every means and threat in his power, until he, provoked in the extreme, shall rise, prepared to attack the enemy, so wantonly challenging him and provoking him. The bear then thrusting his head fiercely through the narrow aperture that is made, is hit, or, in plain terms, receives a mortal blow from the Laplander with the axe, which, if it has struck the upper part of the face, is almost harmless, but if the lower part, and next the eyes, the blow immediately cuts off the head of the wild beast. The Laplanders pursue a different method in other parts of the country, and in the following manner : When they have found the place where a bear has perhaps killed a wild beast, but, having killed it, has soon quitted, they sur- round, by a certain inclosure furnished with two doors, made in the form of an opening I I I !: ] I 416 VCCOl'NT 0\ IIVMHU I.Al'LA.NU OY LKRMn \i) J J 5?; tr, and directly opposite to tlicni, thi* carcavt tlutt 1m killed and just UW t)ehind hitn. car liuh apirtiin: or ^ati of tlu iitcloMirc- arc laid \unoiib buw^, Mrctihcd, uiid lur. nialicd with arrow«, the height ot the hear, a, and treading on the ro|)es, falls, pierced by the arrows, provided they strike with exactness. That the said inclohure is fur- nished with two doorh they assign as a reason, partly, that a free iMSittigc should iK open to the bear, on each hide, wheit he returns to hiii prey, partly, tliat if bv chance Ik* should escape the arrow:* placed at the gate by which he entered, he should more certainly fall '>y those which were placed at the otlnT. 'I'hey also extend a rope with drawn bows on each side in anibusli, on the walks and paths where they know Ixars stray up and down, with the view that, treading on the ro|K*, und the arrows being shot, he n\ay receive a death wound. The Laplander makes use of tiK* assistance of dogs in the hunting of bears, as well as rein-deer. He thoroughly rubs his limbs, when they exceedingly ache, with bear's grease, which is I . Id up ; the inUstines of the animal that is killed are anxiously preserved, with this due observance, that tlie fat of the male bear may be used for the cua- of the males alon**, and what is token from the she bear for the females. The lynxes, called by die Norweg^ians Cioupc, and by the Laplanders Albns, arc not to Ix" met with in Flnmark ; this detect however is supplied by the great number of wolves. Of these some are yellow, some of u colour inclining to white. This wild ani. mal, according to th' diflferent dialects of places, gets ditTerenr names, such as Barg, Graabeen, Sfrob, Sfrog; ttv^ Laplanders call them Kumpi, Staipe, SeilK-k, Gainc, Oigo- butzh. The Laplanders most usually kill wolves with guns; they take them also with a c r. tain iron machine, of which we shall below give a description. The most useful of these traps hold a wild beast so closely, that should they only catch the nail, yet they can re- tain him, which from the following account will be manifest : A certain mountain Lap- lander from the bay of Posanger, called Andrew lonsen, once caught a wolf in one of those approved machines, wnich, though only held by a single nail, and running be- iaides with so great swiftness, with the machine that he carried with him, that the Lap- lander, though carried by his rein-deer, a very swift animal, could scarcely overtake himi as he fled, yet so closely did the trap hold him, that he could by no means extricate him- self and escape. But whatever more of the nature and habits of this animal could be mentioned occurs in chapter the ninth, on the rein-deer. Wolfskins are stretched on wooden tenter-hooks, called in Lapland Ratzh. Foxes arc found in great numbers through Finmark. Of these many are red, called in Lapland Ruopsok ; others are red, marked with a black cross, whence they are called by the Norwegians Kors-Roeve, that is, red foxes, but by the Laplanders Raude : others are altogether black ; others black, with the extremity of the hair on the back shining with a colour like silver. Foxes of this sort, called in Lapland Zhjaeppok, whose skins, as being the best of dieir kind, were reserved under, the injunction of an edict published on the twenty -fifth of May, in the fifty-second year of the seventeenth century, for his majesty alone ; they are now sold without restraint to the Muscovites, who make garments of them for men filling the highest dignities. The Russian women of inferior condition are &iid to wear caps or hoods trimmed with red fox-skins. Besides the said species, there are white foxes found in Finmark, with black ears and legs, and black hairs in their tail. These in Lapland are called Vjelgok, and arc very rarely met vyritli. There are r ACCOimT OK DANISM l,\l'l,ANr) tlY l.r.VMS. 41: )k*^!