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Dc iMontreal by way of Chazy AM) Down the St. Lawrence River to Quebec. A BICYCLE TOUR. ( I LITTLE CHAMPLAIN STREET, QUEBEC. \ ■ « PRICE 25 CENTS. 1 V j i IVIETRO? TO?. lO CENiR.l LIBRARY OLITAN History m AUTHOR'S NOTE. The last chapter of this book first appeared in the Boston Courier, under the title : " Canada's Attitude Toward the United States," and is re-published by per- mission. ACKNOWLEDGMENT. Many of the illustrations that embellish this narrative are reproduced from photographs taken by the Authors during the journey, but to the kind courtesy of The Canadian Pacific Railway, whose splendidly equipped line and superb service are so highly appreciated by the patrons thereof, the Authors are indebted for the follow- ing plates: — Dominion Square, Montreal; Notre Dame Cathedral, Lachine Rapids, The Cidatel, Quebec; Chateau Frontenac, St. Louis Gate, Martello Tower, Little Cham- plain Street, Quebec; Falls of Montmorency, The Basilica, (two views) ; Ste. Anne de Beaupre. l)i \m MONTREAL BY WAY OF CIIAZY ■<>■ AND ji ■ :)wn the St. Lawrence River to Ouebec. BY ALLAN ERIC A N D THE "JUNIOR PARTNT?]R" \i.thorJ» of. — " Hutkra" Land, A Vacation Tour Awb'^c', Follow- ing the Tow-Path and Through the Adirondack^ Aw'ic'?', The Coinit History of Spain, Two Vears a Castaway on a Tropical Island, Etc., Etc. 1899. ::i:v I : if 1 BOSTON: Gku R NVii.iis & Co., 286 >Vashington Sirret. If M I > i MONTREAL by way of CHAZY AKD Down the St. Lawrence River to Quebec. BY ALLAN ERIC AND THE "JUNIOR PARTNER." Authors of : — " Buckra " Land, A Vacation Tour Awheel, Follow- ing the Tow-Path and Through the Adirondacks Awheel, The Comic History of Spain, Two Years a Castaway on a Tropical Island, Etc., Etc. Wt ill s ■ I: Mm 1899. BOSTON : Geo. R. Willis & Co., 286 Washington Stkbbt. t Copyright, 1899, By the Authors. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. The Authors, en route Frontispiece. PAGE. Breakwater and Lighthouse, Lake Champlain ... 32 On the Frontier 36 General View c' Montreal 44 Dominion Square, Montreal 46 Lachine Rapids 48 Notre Dame Cathedral, Montreal 50 A Drogher on the St. Lawrence River .... 52 The Citadel, Quebec 54 Falls of Montmorency - - 56 The Basilica, Ste. Anne de Beaupre 58 Interior of the Basilica 60 Booths Near the Church 62 Shrine in the Garden 64 Wolfe Monument, Quebec 66 Chateau Frontenac, Quebec 68 St. Louis Gate, Quebec 70 Martello Tower, Quebec ....... 72 Grand Battery, Quebec 76 On the Summit of Mount Royal, Montreal .... 78 wi mi MONTREAL by way of CHAZY AND Down the St. Lawrence Eiver to Quebec. CHAPTER I. Such an extended trip, embracing something Itke fifteen hundred miles, could not be accom- plished wholly on bicycles, in the time at our dis- posal. But when we were seated comfortably iu b luxurious parlor car and the train on the Fitch- buig railroad pulled out of the Union Station, '" Boston, our wheels, luggage and full equipment were in the baggage car ahead. Although we had several times ridden over the Fitchburg road on that splendidly appointed ex- press, it is always new, always delightful, ever re- plete with rare enjoyment such as luxurious equip- ment, courteous officials and rare scenery com bined, can afford. The time passed pleasantly, with an agreeable traveling companion, as the train sped on over the length of the State of Mas- sachusetts, past fertile farms, beautiful valleys and over rushing streams, making few stops untn we were within the shadow of the Hoosac Moun- tains; and then we began to anticipate that al- ^i i ! 1 I 10 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. ways interesting experience, the passage through tlve famed Hoosac Tunnel, which, for travelers, renders this line particularly attractive; for thero is a novelty in shooting through a tunnel, miles In length, of wliich one never wearies. A sudden exit from the bright light of day, a prolonged roar, a sudden flash and the train shot into the bright sunlight of the perfect July day; and we realized that we had passed under th^ mountains that towered thousands of feet above us. Then on to the northwest corner of the state, across a bit of Vermont, roaring over streams above which darted great northern king-flshers, and the train stopped at Hoosic Junction, a ro- mantic spot in the State of New York. Here we disembarked, and made haste to strap the lug- gage, the camera and the large foot-pump upon the wheels, while an interested audience gathered around. We formed a unique caravan, no doubt, for anyone could see that we were equipped for i journey, and it is not often that bicycles are seen in such touring equipment. The case containing extra clothing, photographic plates and some other articles was forwarded by express to Bur- lington, Vt., where we expected to require it. We were bound for Eagle Bridge, only two miles distant, where we were to embark on an- other railroad for Fairhaven, Vt., for, having on a previous trip ridden on our wheels over this route, we preferred not to go over it a second time; therefore we proposed to make Fairhaven, near the head of Lake Champlain, that night. But although Eagle Bridge was but two miles away, we were obliged to ride back, eastward. MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 11 about two miles, In order to cross the river; so we had really more than four miles to ride in reach- ing Eagle Bridge. While the road had been rend- ered rough by recent rains, there had been suffi- cient to-^ming over it to make a fair path in the wheel track, and we were not long in reaching Eagle Bridge. Going up to the railroad station we found that we had two hours to wait for a train on the other road; but the time did not prove monotonous, as the oflScials about the station made things very pleasant for us. When at last the train arrived we went aboard in a smart shower, during which the wheels re- ceived a little wetting, all because the baggage master neglected to place them in proper shelter, thinking, probably, that they were wheelbarrowB or some such delicate machines, instead of pieces of finely constructed mechanism. Instead of starting on time, we had a tedioufc wait which was very annoying to us, as we had to ride over the road, eight miles, from Poultney, whither we were bound by rail, to Fairhaven, and, not knowing what the conditicL. of the roads might be, we naturally wished to go over them before dark; and every minute lost might mean an hour of stumbling along through the dark with our heavily-loaded wheels. While the fireman and the engineer smoked and took things easy, we consulted the time-table of this particular road, from which is taken the following quotation, by which it will be seen the road lets itself down very easy: "Showing the time at which trains may be expected to arrive at and depart from the ■M ] iH i! V 12 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. several stations, but their arrival or departure at the time stated is not guaranteed, nor does the company hold itself liable for any delay or any consequences arising therefrom." But there is always an end to all things, and so at length, the train started, and at once set about making up lost time. The car was !ight and the speed being terrific, we were snapped around curves until our necks were full of "cricks," oup backs were nearly broken and our heads ached That ride can only be compared to a ride in a farm wagon, without springs, drawn by a pair of horses at full gallop over a very poor corduroy road. The train stopped frequently to let passengers on and off, and probably to leave the mail. At each station large delegations were present to se? the train come in and to shake hands, kiss and talk to one another, while the train waited for them to do it— it almost seemed to us. The ami able conductor, a veteran of the road, seemed to know everybody who got aboard, all up through that country, and greeted them as old acquaint- ances. Between somp of the stations he came and talked to us about the people along the way which explained the familiar greetings between him and local denizens as the train pulled in and out of stations. He knew who lived In nearly every farm-house beside the line, and was posted with regard to family details. But he couldnU help that. A man who has been passing over th« same route for two or three decades, must, of ne- cessity, know something about the people. He even claimed to know the pedigrees of most of MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. IS the hens in the farmyards, and related to us how he had once partaken of a fowl at a farmer's table, whose house he pointed out as we Jogged past, but he stated that he had too much respect for old age to ever repeat the experiment. Meanwhile the engineer had been making up time, so we were only a few minutes late li reaching Poultney. We made haste to tecure our wheels, which, by the way, were thrown from the baggage car as though they had been pig-iron, time being very precious (vide., the quotation from the time-table). Hastily securing the baggage we started for Fairhaven. Delighted, beyond meas- ure, to find the road excellent, the eight miles' ride was a superb spin. The sun being set, the air was cool, and we glided by quiet pastoral scenes, while fire-flies danced over the meadows and across the road. Just at dark the lights of Fairhaven glimmered ahead, and presently we dismounted in front of "The Cottage," where a fair figure clad in white tripped down the path to greet us. In spite of our late arrival, thanks to a telegram which I had sent from Eagle Bridge and to the thoughtfulners of the landlord, an acceptable supper awaited as and the landlord and his wife sat with us at the table while we ate and conversed, reminiscently. I! ! i i CHAPTER II. We did not hurry about setting out the next morning for the reason that we intended to go only to Larrabee's Point, a little place on Lake Champlain, opposite TIconderoga, which, we had every reason to expect from our experience the summer previous, would be a very easy run. We were looking forward with much pleasant antici- pation to meeting again our friends at Larrabee's, also to making a brief call at a fam: house on th» way where we had been so hospitably entertained at dinner on our former tour. It was a perfect morning overhead, and we left Fairhaven with every expectation of having a de- lightful ride. But alas; this life is replete with surprises and disappointments, as well as pleas- ures. For perhaps a couple of miles we rodo along very comfortably; but then wc struck some rough road. This did not alarm us, however for we believed it would be only temporary. While walking up a small hill a party of young men and ladies on wheels, in faultless costumes, overtook and passed us; but it was not long before it was demonstrated that riders who go out for an oc- casional "spin" do not hold out against seasoned tourists, for we presently passed thom at rest be neath some trees beside the road as we flew by. while we navigated our heavily-loaded wheel<>i MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 16 over the rough road. The further we proeeede«l the more walking we did, until we ceased to ride altogether. Our surprise and disappointment were great, as the road continued to stretch ahead of us, entirely unridable; this road, which we had found so perfect a year ago. The explanation of it was that, two or three days previous, there had been heavy rains, and the soil being clayey, the teams passing over it while the surface was soft had broken up the surface, and the day mud hav- ing dried, the result was the roughest and the most utterly unridable road that we had ever seen; a continuous stretch of sharp projections, almost as hard as flint, over which we walked with great effort. Mile after mile we walked, making very slow progress, hoping against hopa that there would be an end to it. But no. W« stopped once or twice to refresh ourselves wlti? wild raspberries, and once for a drink of cold water from a mountain stream. Our progress wan so slow that we lost all idea of our location, and we were getting desperately hungry. We kept looking for the farm-house where we wished to call and renew old acquaintance, but it did not appear. Finally we concluded that we must have, in some way, left the right road; and so we lifted our wheels over the fence and struck across a field toward a house on the other road, which ran to the right of us, only more to the east than the one we were traversing. At this house we made inquiries that resulted in no satisfaction, and after the farmer and his robust family, who were sitting on the veranda digesting their recent din- ner, had favored us with a pitcher of ice-water— m Id MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. and we were surprised to find Ice at a farm-house —we went on, taking a near-by cross road back to the road we had left. We walked on, silently, doggedly, well nigh discouraged; for. If this con- dition continued, there was no hope of reachinir Larrabee's that day, or even the next. While as- cending a long hill we fully decided that further effort was useless, for we were very tired and nearly famished. At the top of the hill we saw a farm-house, and hurried to it with the hope that we could obtain something to eat; but to our great disappointment it proved to be deserted. Here the Junior Partner said that she could go no further, and to me the outlook appeared hopeless. Leav- ing her on the veranda of the deserted house I walked on a few rods to where I could see down the other side of the hill, hoping to discover an- other house not far away; but there was none, only an interminable road, rough and unrldable. stretching on and on. It was now nearly the middle of the afternoon. Going down into a field where some men were at work, I got some wate** in half a cocoanut shell and carried it to the Jun- ior Partner. Slightly refreshed, we retraced our steps about half a mile to a road we bad passed, leading to the westward, to Benson, near the lake. If we could reach there we felt sure of getting something to eat, and hoped to find some trans- portation up the lake. As we reached the Junc- tion of the roads we saw, coming toward as, a team heavily loaded with lumber. There were two men with it, and we anxiously waited to see if they were going toward Benson, and a great load was lifted from us when the team turned MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. n Into the road nnd the men readily consented to take us and our wheels to Benson. So the Junior rartner was Riven a seat beside the driver, while I rode on the top of the load, steadying the wheels. Thus we rode Into Benson, and, oblivious to the curious stares of the villagers, got off at the hoteL To the landlord I made known our situation, and asked that he furnish us with something to eat. It was far past the dinner hour and he did not enthuse over the proposition; but I told him thnt we must have something to eat, and that there could be no ifs or ands about it, whereupon he called his wife, and we sat down to a very indif- ferent meal at a good, round price. However, It was better than nothing. While at the table we discussed with the land- lord concerning the means of getting to Larra- bee's. There was no steamer, and it did not ap- pear very certain that we could reach the ferry, about ff>ur miles away, catch the sail ferry boat and get across the lake In season to get a train on the other side. In the course of conversation we mentioned going to Larrabee's by team, and I asked the landlord what he would charge to take us and our wheels there. He named a price which seemed reasonable, and to it we agreed. Almost as soon as we had finished dinner a team, consisting of a pair of horses and a beach wagon, was ready, and with the wheels In behind us, we started. To our surprise the driver turned In the opposite direction from Larrabee's, and the Jun- ior Partner mentioned it to him. He was greatly surprised, for he had been ordered to take us to i 18 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. the ferry. So we turned around and returned to the hotel, had a few words with the blundering landlord, made a new price, a dollar more, and started again. We will pass over the ride briefly; though, un- der any other circumstances and condition of the Foad, which allowed the horses to proceed at a pace but little faster than a walk, it would have been enjoyable and romantic, as it was. It was not very unpleasant, though several stops were necessary to re-adJust the wheels, and we arrived at Larrabee's, driving up to "The Locusts" Jost about sunset The welcome which we received after our gloomy day from the Doctor, the "Pilot" and from "Jack," made us forget our trials. Nor shall we ever forget that first evening at that delightful re- treat close to the lake— and we, the Doctor and I, smoked, and smoked, and smoked, until a late hour, our smoke-talk being occasionally broken, nowever, by the congenial society of the ladies; for, be It here known, the "Pilot," "Jack" and the Junior Partner were all of the fair sex. CHAPTER III. Our friends, we learned, had no idea of aUowttig us to go on the next day; on the contrary, they had laid plans for our entertainment and pleas- ure, no less than a voyage down (no, up) the lake on the Doctor's steam-yacht "Refuge." Now about going "up" the lake. I never could get Lake Ghamplain straightened out in my mind, b» cause one naturally associates south with "dowQ,'* and north with "up;" but as the head of Lake Ghamplain is to the south, and the foot, where It empties its waters through the Richelieu river la- the St. Lawrence, is to the north, when you go up the lake you go down, and when you go down thin lake you go up— up south and down north sounds funny, but the lake is wholly to blame. The Doctor said something about calling us in the morning. But that wasn't necessary, for I got up half a dozen times in the night and looked out of the window to see if we were to have a fine day, and so I was awake about as early as the Doctor was. The Doctor, with the aid of his big, handsome dog "Don," his inseparable companion, had got the curtains of the "Refuge" snugly stowed, and she lay at her anchorage as jauntily as a duck. The morning was beautiful and the lake, spark- ling in the bright sunlight, reflected the shadows of the magnificent locust trees on the lawn at the water's edge— not forgetting the cork tree. 20 MONTREAL UY WAY OF CHAZY. The Doctor appeared at the breakfast table clad for a long voyage. The Pilot and the Junior Partner were in good spirits, and Jack was us sweet as the pinks that blushed on the lawn. To add to the pleasure of the day, there had been invited three young ladies and a gentleman, all of whom appeared in good time. During the embarkation of the stores, Jack assisted the Doc- tor, and rambled about from one rocking boat to another as though they were solid rocks. A thorough boatman is Jack. Meanwhile Don got terribly excited for fear that he was not down upon the ship's papers for the day's voyage; and I fully believe that it would have broken his heart if he had been left behind. He obediently lay upon the lawn, at the Doctor's command, un- til the stores were aboard, and the ladies. But then he could no longer endure the strain, for he rushed down to the landing, barking joyously, and was transported to the Refuge. Then he was su- premely happy. All aboard and snugly stored, and Jack lighted the fire under the boiler. In an incredibly short time steam was up and the Doctor, who was chief engineer, started the engine. The Doctor is as skilful an engineer as ever opened a throttle on Lake Ghamplain. He knows a marine engioe from eccentric to crank-pin, and the slightest un- usual sound from the engine while it is working attracts his attention and causes him to feel at once for the proper tool with which to set every- thing right. The Pilot, who is duly licensed as such, took the wheel, and as the screw began to revolve the MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 21 Refuge swung gracefully around and headed for the draw (?) bridge over which the railroad crosses the lake, which Is narrow here. The Pilot blew the whistle for the draw to be opened, and then she disturbed the atmosphere with the syren. This syren will bear looking into, as the Doctor said one day as he gazed down its yawning mouth. It gives forth the most unearthly sound that ever cleft a glorious morning in twain. As it bellows out, the torn and tattered sound as it reverberates from headland to headland is like unto a thousand catamounts, and ten thousand Indian devils. When this syren was first import- ed from xifrica it frightened half the population of Vermont out of several years of growth. Now the Pilot has got the blowing of the syren down to a science, as the Doctor said, and when s«ic toys with the rope the demons are let loose, un- muzzled. Meanwhile the draw swung open. It is a fear- ful and wonderful draw. When it opens it looks as though half the bridge had broken away and started to float off up the lake. It is moved by means of engines and huge chains that hang sus- pended beneath the surface of the water, their weight causing them to sag sufficiently to allow the keels of boats and steamers to pass over them. The opening of the draw was wide enough for a cathedral to be towed through, and the Ref- uge glided through as though she owned the lake, her two yacht club flags fluttering from the peaks, fore and aft. Meanwhile the Doctor was by the engine, Don stood the port watch, while all the rest, myself nu /■••■^'' ^wi1:';i II' '-''Jfl 22 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. excepted, gathered in the saloon aft and were comfortable and happy. The "Twins" made a lovely picture as they reclined in the stern sheets. As for me, I was perfectly happy up forward with the Pilot, who pointed out to me all the points of Interest on either shore. Among the most interesting objects was the ruin of old Fort Ticonderoga, which stands on a bold, high head- land not far from the mouth of the creek wh'ch forms the outlet for the waters of Lake George into Lake Ghamplain. This historic fortification was erected by Baron Dieskau, the French general, in 1755, and it was somewhat enlarged in 1757, when it was occupied by Montcalm, who marched thence to attack Fort William Henry. Fort Ticonderoga and the immed- iate vicinity was the scene of many bloody con- flicts between the French and English. On the morning of the 10th of May, 1775, the fort was surrendered to Gen. Ethan Allen, who demanded its capitulation "In the name of the Great Je- hovah and the Oontinental Congress." In 1777 General Burgoyne, with 7,500 British soldiers, laid siege to the fort, from Mt Defiance, from which latter point they were able to drop shot over into the fort, and it was abandoned on the night of July 4th. After the capture of Burgoyne at Saratoga the British retired into Canada, but in 1780 the old fort was again occupied by the troops under General Haldiman. Referring to the ruins of today— the old battery on the bluff is said to have been the original Carillon. Back on the higher ground are the barrack walls, trenches and bastions. On the west, beyond the outlet of La&» MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. George, is Mt. Defiance. Opposite the fort at the southeast, the lake is narrowed down by Mt. In- dependence, which was aldo fortified while St, Glair held command during the siege. The lake here turns toward the north, the water washir.g three sides of the promontory. Across the locust- covered flat, just north of the ruins, from a poiat near the draw-bridge, lay Ethan Allen's route in 1775. Whitehall, at the extreme end of the lake, our destination, is about twenty-three miles south of Fort Ticonderoga. Under the skilful guidance ot the Pilot, with the Doctor in the engine room, and with Don keeping a sharp lookout ahead and on either side, the swift craft flew tbroueh the water, threaded narrow channels, along lovely shores, past bold headlands and high cliff s— a perfect pan- orama of lovely scenery. On the west shore is the State of New York with the Adirondacks looming up in the distance, while on the east shore is Ver- mont. We frequently passed lighthouses and bea- cons, every one of which was familiar to the Pilot, who, while she manipulated the wheel, acted tha part of a charming hostess. Sounds of frequent disturbances, interspersed with singing and laugh- ter, came from the cabin aft; but as for the Pilot and myself we were simply glad that the rest of the party were enjoying themselves. We met several small steam launches that, an they passed, were tossed like corks on the sea kicked up by the Refuge as she bowled along, as craft of lesser size are rocked by a passing Ouu- arder. Each craft was saluted with the syren, to which Don invariably contributed his stentorian voice. 24 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. Meantime the stores were broken out and we enjoyed a bountiful repast; and as the eatables rapidly disappeared the Doctor couldn't seem to understand why the yacht was not thereby light- ened, why she did not draw less water just as she did when the coal was used from the bunkers. But I tnist that he will fathom the mystery, clear- ly, and to his own satisfaction. As we neared Whitehall, we met a long line of canal boats, clumsy looking craft, tied two abreast. In tow of a tug-boat with a funnel as high as the chimney of a sawmill. Curious look- ing, unkempt, unshaven characters, one sees on the canal boats, and the women who live thereon are not exactly examples of feminine loveliness. Yet who knows but what some of them may have seen better days? For much of the way below Larrabee's the lake is very narrow, and winds along like a river. Rounding a point we steamed up to a wharf at Whitehall, and disembarked. The entire com- pany, the Pilot excepted, went up town with vari- ous objects in view. The .Junior Partner and I looked about for objects of interest, which we found principally In the Ghamplain Canal, wh'ch leaves the lake at this point and furnishes direct water communication with New York, by way of West Troy and the Hudson river. We watched the interesting process of locking the boats from the level of the lake up to the highest level of tiic canal, and it is wonderfui how quickly a heavily loaded boat is lifted many feet. The process Is the same as on the Erie Canal, but the locks here are much smaller. t! ■i MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 26 Just as the Junior Partner and I reached the Refuge on our return, a drenching shower of rain came on, and I made haste to lower the curtains. One by one, as the rain ceased, the other mem- bers of the party came aboard, including the Doc- tor, who carried a great coil of rope. In view of the fact that I had never noticed anything espe- cially peculiar about the Doctor, and because there was a determined look in his eye as he ap- proached, I was not a little startled for a mo- ment; but we soon learned that the rope was in- tended for the anchop. Steam was soon up, the lines were cast o 1; trj i A : 80 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. country Is presented. The lake's greatest width, which is near the outlet of Ausable river, Is twelve and one-half miles. Measuring north, from Whitehall into Missisquoi Bay, whi»;j ex- tends into Canada, its extreme length is D 8 miles. Its elevation above tide-water is ninety-nine feet and its greatest depth is 399 feet. The steamer Vermont is a magnificent craft splendidly appointed, with spacious saloons ard promenades, luxurious cabins and handsotno staterooms; and a voyage on bohid the great boat on this broad inland sea is one of the finest ex- periences the world can afford. The Vermont hoti two towering smokestacks, and her two great boilers are located on the main deck, one on tb» port and one on the starboard side— amidships*, and she burns pea coal. The engine is a ponder ous affair, and, through the courtesy of the chief engineer, we made a thorough inspection of iu The passengers on the Vermont are pleasantly Im- pressed with the freedom which they enjoy, and with the unobtrusiveness, yet easy courtesy of every person employed on the boat. When I re- marked this to Capt. Arbuckle, in the course of a chat with him, he said: "I will have it no other way on a boat which I command. I want passen* gers to feel at home;" and Capt. Arbuckle means what ne says, and if I am a judge of character, h» never says anything which he does not mean. We took things very easily, enjoying the superb scenery in either shore, especially the bold, beet- ling cliffs on the New York side. The steamer made various landings during the afternoon. SiZ miles north of Crown Point are the ruins of tb» MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 81 fort, famous In Revolutionary history. The Take Is here narrowed down by the approach of land extending from the west, on which the ruins stand. Chimney Point approaches from the east side. Beyond the lighthouse, at the narroweet place in the passage, are the scarcely visible mini of Fort St. Frederick, built by the French in 1731. Grown Point Fort, standing over toward the west, was commenced by Amherst in 1769. The exten- fiive earthworks, and the walls of the barracka, are still In a good state of preservation. Port Henry, two miles to the northwest, is exceedingly picturesque. Calamity Point is about two miles north of Westport; and here the steamer Jham- plain was wrecked in 1876, while running north on her regular night trip. Spilt Rock Mountain ox- tends along the west shore, terminating in a sharp point eight miles north of Westport. In the ul- certain record of old Indian treaties, it is claimed that this rock marked the boundary line between the tribes of the St. Lawrence and those of the Mohawk Valley. Otter Creek enters the lake from the east, a little over five miles north of Wost- port. It Is navigable to Vergennes. Fort Cassfn stood at the mouth of Otter Creek, and bits of the ruins are now visible. In this creek a portion of the American squadron was fitted out In 1812. which, under Commodore McDonough, defeated the British fleet under Commodore Downle, In September of that year. Four miles north of Es- sex Landing Is the mouth of Boquet river, navi- gable about a mile, which was the rendezvous ol Burgoyne*s flotilla In the advance on Ticonderogiw in 1777; and in 1812 it was entered by the British il'.hty'' 89 MONTRKAL UY WAY OF CHAZY. vessels lu the attack upon Wlllsborough. Near the middle of the lake near Wlllsborough Point are the islaiuls known as "The Four Brothers." where occurred the running engagement between Benedict Arnold and Captain Prlngle, In 1776. In which the British were the victors. After leaving Essex Landing the boat pasadd out Into the broad lake, gradually nearing the Vermont shore and approaching Burlington. In- land are the two highest peaks of the Green Mountains, Mt. Mansfield, 4,360 feet high, and Oamel's Hump, known to the French as Leon Con chant. The longest stop was made at Burlington, which was Interesting to us principally because It Is said to be the most beautiful city In Vermoat. and because that, near here, Is located Fort Btha»» Allen, named after the hero of Ticondei oga. Col. Chester Point reaches half-way across the lake north of Burlington, and further west is Oolches- ter Beef, the outermost rock of which is surmount- ed by a tower showing a red light We called at Port Kent, ten miles north of Burlington, and then, six miles beyond passed Valcour Island, near which occurred the first naval battle of the Revolution, October 11, 1776. The hotel where President McKinley stayed during his sojourn at Lake Champlain, stands on a bold headland which puts out from the west shore Just north of Valcour Island. While in what Is known as the "brood lake,*' we had one of the experiences of an ocean voyage —for the waters of the great lake stretched away to the horizon, and no land was in sight ahead. As we neared Plattsburg, our destination, we rin igb. Nmf *ough Polat Brothers," mt between In 1776. in boat passtMl nenring the Ington. la- the Green ; high, and IS Leon Goa : Burlington, illy becaase in Vermont. 1 Fort Btha»» ieioga. Col. )S8 the lake t is Oolches- is surmount* We called at lington, and cour Island, battle of the hotel where Is sojourn at Id headland lust north of brood lake,*' )cean yoyage etched 4way sight ahead, itlon, we rin iij U|i; '•■i\ 1/: n i.!.i>a ui li4 '.;!■;: m ... i.r,,^ '.A ( 1 ; i 1 < ( , ^ - !| MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 33 into a heavy squall, which raised a siasable sea and covered the lake with white-caps. For a few minutes there was a pouring rain, and then, nn the squall passed over, a gorgeous rainbow hang over the Vermont shore. Passing In by the break- water with its Ilglit* house, we landed at Plattsburg, and dlsembarkr^d with our wheels, going directly to our hot'il. Plattsburg Is In New York. The first settler In this region was Count Gharles de Fredenburgh, a captain of the British army. After the Revolii tlon the land was granted. In 1784, to Zephanlah Piatt and others, and Incorporated Into the town of Plattsburg In 1785. Here, In the lake, occurred I a great naval battle, In 1814. That evening, after supper, we walked aronnd I the old town, and presented letters of introductloii jtbat the Doctor and Jack had kindly given nt. I and which were of great service to ns in connec- {tlon with our trip further north; and we enjoyed the superb twilight as we returned to the hoteL In the morning we mounted our wheels nn^ jrode out to the barracks, a regular United States Army post, about a mile south of Plattsburg. where there are some fine buildings and exten sive, well-kept grounds. At the time of our visit troops were being recruited there for service in [the Philippines. Returning to the hotel, the luggage was fas- Itened upon the bicycles, and mounting, we wheeled away toward the Canadian frontier. Irl i.J ii '. ill > t !(:, i 5 :'! ;iir I. OHAPTEK V. We had, the evening before, made inquiries con- 1 cerning the best route to talse from Plattsburg to Rouse's Point, and, in each instance, we were ad- vised, even urged to go by way of Chazy. The gentleman to whom we had a letter of introduc- tion said, "You had better go by way of Chazy." A wheelman whom we accosted replied, "Be sure to go by way of Chazy, for you will find the best ] road that way"; and so, all the way, the breeze j which blew from the northwest seemed to say.j "Chazy, Chazy"; and the swaying boughs of the trees sighed, "Cha-zy, Ch-a-z-y." We could not miss the road, for nearly every sign board read— | "To Chazy." For the first two miles or so out of Plattsburg | we went over a fine macadam road, which afford- ed us some charming glimpses of the lake; then,! turning due north we found a good loam road,| which allowed us to wheel at a good pace, and not- withstanding that there was a strong wind blow- 1 ing, it came from a point nearly at i^l.^ht angles to our course, so it did not materially impede our| progress. The country was not particularly interesting, be- i ing rolling, not very profusely wooded and fairly | well cultivated. At one house we stopped for water, and there MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 35 ater, and there being none In the house I volunteered to take the tin pail and get some from the well. While clam- bering over a pole fence with the pail of water* one of the poles slipped and down I went, on top of the pail. The result was that I was pretty well soalied, the contents of my pocliets were strewn around and the pail was badly bent. We found wild raspberries plentiful and with fine, cool, bracing air we enjoyed the run to the utmost. Many of the houses here are built of logs, whitewas/hed on the outside. At a little vil- lage late in the forenoon, we stopped for refresh- ments and to renew my supply of smoliing tobac- co. The proprietor of the Inn congratulated us on stopping there, for he said we would not be able to procure such refreshments as he could fur- nish us with, at Ohazy. At noon we made a short stop at Chazy, which would be an excellent location for a sanitarium for people afflicted with nervousness. There be- ing no hotel visible there, we ran on until we came to a farm-house which looked as though there might be some hospitality to spare, and we were not mistaken, for the woman of the house was most obliging. We were anxious to reach Rouse's Point as early as possible, for we expected to find there a Cana- dian customs agent to clear our wTieels. It is the last place on the American side, before crossing the frontier, and an important United States cus- toms post. Five miles from the frontier, at inter- vals of a mile, we passed posts which gave the distance to the line, viz., "5 miles to B. Line," or British line. -f^ m 86 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. Rouse's Point is a place of considerable commer- cial importance, and the most prominent port of entry on the frontier, and five railroads centre there. It is at the very end of the lake, and close to the mouth of the Richelieu river, which flows into the St. Lawrence. A short distance north is Fort Montgomery, an Interesting ruin belonging to the United States. Reaching Rouse's Point, we easily found the United States custom house, where we were cour- teously received by the officers, wlio Informed us that there were no formalities to go through so far as the American authorities were concerned, also that the Canadian customs agent was away. They advised us to go on to the village of Lacolle, seven miles distant, on the Canadian side, where we would find a Canadian official. So, after get- ting directions, we mounted and went on. At the edge of the village we took closer chances at crossing the railroad track In front of an ap- proaching train than we shall, either of us, care to take again. We soon had to dismount, for we came upon a clay road wliich had been rendered entirely un- rideable by recent rains; but we were not so crest- fallen over It as we should have been had we not been so near to crossing the frontier, which was an interesting event to us. Presently we reached a junction of the road with another leading to the east, wTiere stood an iron post, marking the boun- dary between the United States and Canada. This, we decided, would be a proi>er object to photo- graph; so T unshipped the camera, stood the wheels up against the p^st, and while the Junior >le commer- f6nt port of )ads centre and close '■hich flows ice north is >elouging to found the i were cour- [nformed us through so i concerned, ; was away. B of Lacolle, side, where o, after get- : on. At the chances at ; of an ap- of us, care ame upon a entirely un- not so crest- had we not which was we reached iding to the ig the boun- inada. This, 2t to photo- stood the the Junior • • ■P^' * r • ,i ,1 S ' 1 * • ■, •: .vi*-rv.' T 4 4 I 4 1* # ■■' g^gpHfiiWi ^^m ^. 'i^', - - * r^ . ^N W"" S f|g_.|:-,^^^^^^;r f h- 1 ' i ♦* -;V ..■* St w ■>> ' ■', ■.■.<*«(, j^i>ii mm ('■Jr. -■': ■ ■ 1... i »; .:>.:■ MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 87 Partner was taking her place she caught ber foot in the Canada line and nearly fell down. Step- ping over to the American side I leveled the cam- era at Her Majesty's Dominion and— fired. The reason why I stood on the American side was that I feared that some wandering Oanadian mlgbt mistake me for another Fenian Biald, for they have not recovered from their scare of thirty years ago, or so, yet. After taking the photograph I copied the inscrip- tions from the four sides of the Iron post:— North side:— ^'Lt-JOol. I. B. B. Bstcourt, H. B. M. Com'ss'r." Bast side:— 'Treaty of Washington." South side:— "Albert Smith, U. S. Oom'ss'r." West side:— "Boundary, Aug*st 9th, 1842." Continuing our leisurely walk, we wondered how many miles we were to have of it. The moment we crossed into Canada everything was changed. We were on a vast, fertile, thor- ouglily cultivated plain, settled by French farm- ers. The laiid Is divided into small farms, bound- ed by the parishes. Just as it was laid out when the French first settled In Canada. These farms are small, of but few acres in extent, and in the form of perfect rectangles. They are separated from one another by rail fences laid in herring- bone fashion, and so numerous are they that, look- ing across the level country, at a distance it looks as though covered with piles of wood. The roads follow these boundaries, turning at ri'^t angles, like stairs— up Into Canada. We were interested in observing the crops, and we saw but little corn, for corn Is not successfully grown so far north. 1< '.i. ' hi 88 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. But Instead of each landholder having a large farm and half-tilling a small part of it, as in New England, each had Just what he could thoroughly till; and these French farmers are thrifty, as their buildings and surroundings indicate. After a few miles of walking, to our great Joy we reached a loam road and mounting we wheeled rapidly along througli the beautiful country until we came in sight of Lacolle. We dismounted at a station on the Canada Atlantic Railway to make inquiries of the agent, and while talking with him a portly, benevolent looking man strolled in and stood near. As I finished conversing with the agent, he faced me and said: "Have you a permit to travel in this country?" I replied that we were, as yet, liable to be grabbed up almost anywhere, but that we were about looking for a customs oflScer. "I am the customs oflScer," said lie, in an im- pressive manner. "You are the gentleman whom we have sought to seek," said I. "You haf to hunt for me, not I for you," said he. "That's why we have invaded Lacolle," I as- sured him. His office was near by, and with him we en- tered the sacred precincts of Her Majesty's guar- dian of the treasury— no, Sir Wilfred Laurier's, for Canada is Britii^h by courtesy only, through the indulgence of the Dominion. The officer, a Frenchman, was very courteous, and the necessary papers were soon filled out and handed to us, we surrendering our membership MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. &9 tickets In the League of American Wheelmen un- til the wheels were returned to the United States —thereby avoiding the payment of duty. I mentioned to him that we (had a camera, but he said that was all right; and thanking him, we mounted and rode to the village; but as for that customs officer, there was no doubt in our minds but that he saw us comhig along the road and strolled out to see who we were and what we pro- posed to do. Our minds easier, with the precious documents in our innermost pockets, we wlieoled into the vil- lage. We felt the need of something to eat. The station agent told us there were two hotels, one kept by a P'renchman and the other by an Irish- man who married a French woman. As the pure French hostelry was nearest, we stopped there. A frousy-headed man answered our knock, and, after allowing that he could get us some tea, he ushered us into a front room. There was a piano there, which had no excuse for standing alone, and while we waited I played, first "Y|inkee Doo- dle" and then "God Save the Queen." While we sat there one or two men poked their heads into the door and looked at us, and then an old woman, a veritable witch in appearance, pushed her face in. Several times she did it, disappearing as soon as we looked at her. Finally the Apparition appeared at another door, and this time I looked at ber and made the statement:— "Boo!" ' The face disappeared Instantly. And still we waited. At last becoming Impa- tient, I went out to inquire wlien the tea would be ■m ;'s; r'U iM m .P /,« w V, 40 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. i^ady. I found a man In the bar-room, and asked him about it. He was very short, saying: "I don't tlnk you get nothing warm here today I" So I went back to the front room and reported to the Junior Partner, the ultimate outcome being that we left the hotel, mounted our wheels and started for the other tavern. There (God bless the Irish) we found a more hospitable welcome; and the Hibernian bonlf ace, and the French lady who assisted him in dispensing hospitality, got us a nice meal, ham, eggs, bread, berries, cake, tea and plenty of Ice water. The landlord was all right, and as we took our departure he gave us direc- tions regarding the road, with instructions not to disregard them for anybody; and we found it all to be as he said. We found a good road and a pleasant country to ride through. But another adventure was in store for us. In front of a house we saw a team stand- ing, the occupant being engaged In conversation with a woman. Thinking that he was about to turn into the road, as we passed we rang our bells, simply to warn him of our presence. The moment we passed, he whipped up his horse and came on after us, sOiouting wildly some words that we could not understand. As we passed a man who was leaning against a fence, the Junior Partner asked what was the matter with the man in the team. He replied that he thought he wanted us to stop, or that he wanted to get by. Finally the wild Frenchman In the wagon got sio near us, keeping up hij -svild shouting, that we dismounted and stepped out of the road. When we did so he 1, and asked I't tlnk you MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 41 reined up, spoke ft sentence or two rapidly, of which the only word we could catch was "parlez!" Now we knew that that meant "speak"; but as we were not conscious of having committed any of- fense we did not trouble ourselves as to what he wanted. He turned about and we remounted and rode on; but presently we lieard ihlm after us again. Fearing that he would run me down, I again dismounted, and as he passed me, as closely as he dared, he glared at me and muttered "sacrel" I ought to have told him to "sacre him- self," but I saw that he had been drinking, so I held my peace and he drove on, soon turning in at a farm, and we saw him no more. We subse- quently learned that It Is not considered courte- ous, In that country, to ring the bells when one wishes to pass, but to speak. So he probably wanted to know why we did not speak— "parlez." A mile or so further on we stopped to photo- graph a French farm-house. The houses have the walls built of stone, as a protection against the severe Canadian winters. We found at home only a lot of children, In charge of a brig^ht little girl, whom we could not make understand what we wanted. She thought we wl^ed water and brought us some, very warm and in a very dirty vessel. As near as we could learn her mother was at work somewhere in the field. We succeeded in posing the children in a group on the door-steps, and after "pressing the button," we pushed ahead at a rapid rate over a very good loam road, until near sunset, when we noticed a shower coming rapidly up. This set us to thinking, for we were now not far from Montreal and it was not worth m ■'I :* m m m li 4S MONTREAL BY WAY OF ClIAZY. our while to spend another nig'ht on the road; be- gides, we wished to reach Montreal that evening. But we could not reach It awheel, especially in a (Bhower. So, reaching a little French village we dismounted at the station— on the Grand Trunk road—and inquired ahont a train. The agent was a Frenchman who sipolce good Englisih, and he was very courteous. We secured our tickets, checked the wheels, and while we waited the agent made things very pleasant for us. Here we were again reminded that we were in a foreign land; for the sign over the railroad crossing read: — "Tra/erse du Chemin de Fer" (Railway Cross- ing). We looked about the quaint little village, and watched the people, all conversing in French. There was a curious little chapel there, whose bell was hung in a framework of timbers, beside the door; and while we were there a boy came and rung It as though a conflagration was visiting the town. Almost the first Impression w^hicti comes to one the most forcibly, on entering Upper Canada, is that it is a priest-ridden land. One sees priests trailing around everywhere, and in the country districts they are the only ones w^o seem to live on the "fat of the land." There Is nothing that ge'ts by them in the way of the enjoyments and the sweets of life, I imagine. In this tiny village, so small that we could see, from the station, the country all around, a church was being built to cost $25,000; Just before our train was due a through express came In sight, and the agent warned everybody MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 48 away from th« edge of the platform, where there was danger of being drawn under the train by the draft which it created. He knew what he was talking about, too, for the train went by at fifty miles an hour, and the breeze carried with it wa« terrific. The train we were to take had to be flagged, and even then we came near losing It. Either the agent replaced the signal too soon, or the engineer did not see it, for the train thundered past the station at full speed. Immediately the agent start- ed running up the platform after it, gesticulating as only a Frenchman can, and somebody on the train seeing him, and knowing a mistake had been made, stopped the train and it backed down to the station. It was a close call for us, and we came near having to stop at the village all night, which prospect did not please us. So we flew on toward Montreal, with the light- ning playing all around us. On the train we met two Americans, a gentleman and his son from South Framlngham, Massachusetts, who had come up on their wheels as far as Burlington, but flnd- Ing the roads very bad, ihad shipped the bicycles home. Soon we were rumbling over the great Victoria Bridge w'hich spans the St. Lawrence, and in a few moments pulled into the Bonaventure sta- tion, Montreal, where, after running the gauntlet of the pestiferous hackmen, worse than mosqui- toes, we made our way to the Savoy, the most ex- clusive and select hotel in the Canadian metrop- olis. %■ t i '1 •I .'•■■^•'1' m '. 'i; '^ ' "vJ,, CHAPTER VI. The first thing on the program the next morn- ing, after breakfast, Tvas to secure our wheels and get the baggage, wlilch I had ordered shipped from Burlington in bond, released from the cus< toms authorities. Obtaining the wm the CUB- iels was an iked from a r way down a policeman I applied to g us that it lit at police ted us. The B^ith wound corridors of Dally led us occupied by at last, we uld give us h we would 9S at a cost a^ on our : quite cover sallied forth uly licensed I days, with :ts. This is M] ■s ■■■ e V a t s MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 46 THE CITY OF MONTREAL. No. 1417— Chief of Police Office, Central Station, Notre Dame Street. Pass to "the Junior Partner" For 7 days Bicycle. July 15. 1899. Geo. H. Hughes, Superintendent of Police. The permiCM are now cherished souTenirs of the expedition. Here we wish to pay a tribute to the police of Montreal. They are nearly ail French and they are all gentlemen. They are very cour- teous and most obliging and polite— not too mudh so, as are the black constabulary in Jamaica, West Indies. They are in striking contrast to most of the police In United States cities, w'ho are too lln- portant by far, entirely devoid of good manners and apparently unable to grant a civil reply to a civil question. We have a few police, however, w'ho are Just the opposite. Next we went to the express office, where we obtained an order on the customs warehouse for our baggage, riding to that place, down near the r^ver-front, where the officials marked It with the magic symbol and received our directions for send- ing it up to the hotel. We were now free to expl^ore the city. At first one does not find Montreal an easy city to go about. The streets are laid out with fair regularity but the visitor requires some time to locate the streets clearly with reference to the points of the compass; but after a little it is simple enougih. '^^'"^ ;111 it ii m 1, .4i: 46 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. Montreal Is a handsome city, clean and well cared for; but, omitting the points of special interest, it soon becomes monotonous. Regarding the paved streets, they were original- ly intended to be good; and those paved with con- crete and stone bloclcs, average, probably, as good as the streets of most large cities; but many of the streets of Montreal are paved with vrooden blocks that have worn very unevenly, the result being innumerable deep depressions, malcing it very hard and disagreeable to ride a bicycle over them. On the outsliirts, however, where the streets are surfaced with loam or macadam, it is pleasant riding, for the streets, particularly in the best res- idential sections, are very pretty; and the city has a profusion of fine trees. We decided first to go to Mount Royal, which stands a little to the northwest of the city, and it proved to be a pleasant ride. Arriving at Mount Royal we found an inclined railway leading to the summit. The fare is eight cents, up and baclc, in- cluding the wheels, and entering the car we soon found ourselves being drawn up by a cable, the power being located in an engine house at the top. We had been up inclined roads before, but never one so steep as this. Half of it must have been tilted fully forty-five degrees, and as we loolied behind and down below us, then up and at the slender cable upon the strength of w'hlch so much depended, it caused a sort of "creepy" feeling. At the top we stepped out and went to a pavilion, a sort of observation platform perched on the edge of the precipice, from w'hlch we had a superb pan- oramic view of the city, the St. Lawrence stretch- well cared interest, it re original- i with con- ly, as good it many of th wooden the result making it icycle over the streets is pleasant le best res- le city has ral, which ily, and it at Mount ing to the 1 baclc, in- r we soon cable, the It the top. but never lave been we looljed Qd at the I so much eeling. At avilion, a the edge perb pan- e stretch- ^if-* ,^' JlkmUk 1^ MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 47 Ing its broad silver b; I u. ^ east and west, a^.!' the country for miles on all sides. Montreal is the largest city in tlie Dominion. It is picturesquely situated on an island in tlie St. Lawrence, at the head of ocean navigation, over Six hundred miles inland. It is located in the midst of a great level plain, and t&nka among the most beautiful cities of the continent. It is, pre- eminently, a city of dhurches— gray old sanctu- aries and stately cathedrals that rival the grand- est edifices of Europe in splendor and historic in- terest. From our lofty position we could see, be- yond the St. Lawrence, to the eastward, the fa- mous Beloeil peaks, and to the north the Lauren- tian range, said, by geologists, to be the oldest of the world's mountains. Immediately below lay the city. It is a favorite lyastime for cyclists of Montreal to ascend the mountain by the inclined railway, and then coast down on their wheels, round and round, winding to and fro over a splendid road, to the foot. We did not coast the entire distance, but we rode over some of the beautifully shaded roads, that tools us a little higher than where we landed, coasting back to the power house of the railway, where we spent another enjoyable hour at the pavilion. The return to the city was made In substantially the same way, the route awheel being varied a lit- tle. Montreal is a French city, almost as much s;o as Paris. French is the language wliich one hears most spoken in the streets. J^early all the stores are French, and splendid pla:ces they are, many of Ml m ii.v ! |:;fi iii^ i ' t 48 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. them. Almost all the signs bear French names, but nearly all of them, In Montreal, are duplicated in English. The majority odC people met on the street can speak English, but French is the lan- guage of the city. In the stores, public buildings, depots, et cetera, both French and English are spoken; and the conductors of the electric cars and the cab drivers speak both languages. On the street cars, in the trains and on the boats, there are more French papers read than English. Of the total population of Montreal about two-thirds are French. Still, it is a city of the British Em- pire (begging Sir Wilfred Laurier's pardon), and there must be no clashing between the two na- tionalities. And they do get along splendidly. For Instance, If the mayor were to be elected by i)op- ular vote the English would be out-voted three to one; so the mayor is elected by acclamation, the understanding being that tbe mayor sliall be French one year and Englisih the next, and so on. In the afternoon we took electric cars for the Lachine Rapids, which we Intended to "shoot," we presumed it would be in "cold blood." But, oh, dear! We thought the rapids were very tame. It was a fine ride to Lachine, where we had some time to wait for the boat coming down the river. Here the St. Lawrence is very broad and beautl- fut, and spanned by a superb Iron bridge. There were many other tourists beside ourselves, and the moment the gang-plank went ashore there was a frightful scrambling and pushing between those who wanted to come ashore and those wlio wished to go aboard. As the former outnumbered the latter they carried the day and we were borne I Qcb names, duplicated net on the Is the lan- I buildings, Qngllsh are ectric cars es. On the ►oats, there Qgllsh. Of two-thirds (rltl^h Em- irdon), and le two na- idldly. For ed by pop- oted three ;clamation, )r sliall be and so on. TS for the o "shoot," od." But, rery tame, had some the river, nd beautl- ge. There ^s, and the ere was a reen those •ho wiiShed bered the ere borne LACHINE RAPIDS. W- ri M k ii MiM ] !"! f ■ t I Ill 1 Hi 11 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 49 along in the crush. Then there was a great rush tor tlie upper deck, but we succeeded In getting good places near the rail, and the boat started. The sail to the Rapids was well worth the time required. Presently we could see, aihead, the wliite-caps of the Rapids, and wf soon entered the boiling water. We caught our breaths, but at once discovered that it was unnecessary. Still it is customary to do so. The water all around and for some distance ahead boiled and bubbled, lashed itself into fairly large waves, wiggled and twisted and gurgled a little. The river, to be liberal, was in a state of mild agitation; that was all. The steamer did not stand on her beam ends, nor dip her scuppers under. Perhaps sbe did not have any scuppers to dip under. We didn't notice them at any rate. The boat simply pitched easily and rolled a little, as we could tell by sighting by the flag-stafiC at the bow, at objects on shore. Still it was a very Interesting experience and mildly ex- citing, occupying several minutes, during which we made several photographs. During the run down to Montreal we were in- terested in watcQiIng the shoiTS, and amused and wearied at the antics of the members of a "per- sonally conducted" pai-ty, on board, who made fools of themselves, as usual, spreading all over everything and making observations and asking questions that any intelligent six-year-old child ought to be ashamed of. As we drew up at the wharf at Montreal we no- ticed several ocean steamers lying there, and it seemed strange to tbink of their being (here, six hundred miles from the ocean, In the far northern Interior of the continent 60 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. That evening we sat for a time In the park, watching the people promenading along the brightly lighted street. Happy people are these French, always bright and Interesting. While sitting there we were both pleased and surprised to see an old friend, a civil engineer, who had visited us in Boston, and whom we had not seen for about four years— come walking by. Of course, we accosted him, for the pleasure of meeting was mutual. The remainder of the evening we pleasantly si)ent calliiig upon some friends, the result being an invitation to walk around Mount Royal in the morning:; Sunday— leaving at 10.30 o'clock prompt- ly, no waiting beyond that hour for anybody. At the appointed hour in the morning we were on hand, ready for the trip. We walked first through the beautiful and extensive grounds of McGill College, and a short distance beyond I, my host and a young Englishman also engaged in business In Montreal, left the ladles to pursue their own sweet wills, and street cars, to meet us later at "St. George's on the hill." My friend is an old Alpine climber, and a smooth path where other fe^t have trod simply terrifies him and causes him to dart away by some more diflicult and inaccessible route. His tramps among the Alps have stood (him in good i^tead, but I followed him a good second, along steep paths embowered in trees and bushes, up steep Inclines and over lilgh ledges and boulders— w'herever one could be found. It was hlgle are these g. pleased and vll engineer, horn we had walking by. pleasure of e i^leasantly result being aoyal In the ock prompt- inybody. ng we were walked first grounds of eyond I, my engaged In 3 to pursue , to meet us ber, and a trod simply t away by route. His Im In good Dond, along buslies, up 1 boulders— hlg*hly en- npanion on around the 1 i) ,^ "■- Hw r« »-• ar .//■■ :r^ iBsci' /' '::iB mo Oil bu Sh sit ag fu ar in ey w B w ce ui til iD tl a t ( MONTREAL BY WAY OF Ct[AZY. 51 mountain, finally bringing up at the St George's Club, the members ol' wfhich include prominent business men. There we were met by the ladies. Shaggy, obedient little "Jip" was there, too; and sitting on the broad, cool verandah, which com- mands a superb view, we imbibed cooling bever- ages before returning to the city, where we were further entertained, at dinner, by our friends, who are delightful and accomplished hosts. The remainder of the afternoon we spent visit- ing some of the famous churches and feasting our eyes upon their splendid interiors. Among them were St. James, modeled after St. Peter's, at Rome; and the Notre Dame Cathedral, famous the world over for its grand proportions, its magnifi- cent interior decorations and the priceless treas- ures that it contains. Its bell is said to be among the largest in the world. We sat for a time watch- ing the service, and then visited Bonseoours Church, near the market by the same name, where the hanging lamps are all in the form of models of ships and steamers, and where the priest was addressing the congregation in vigorous French. This ended our day's jaunting— and we returned to the hotel to make ready for our departure for Quebec, the following morning. ' '7 I imm^' •\' !:. •IIi''"\i?; -i^ i!!i'i:" ■■ CHAPTER VII. The next morning we were up early, and, with the wheels, luggage and camera thereon, we start- ed for the steamer which left for Quebec at 9 o'clock, calling on the way at the postrofflce. Arriving at the wharf, after checking the wheels, for which we paid twenty-five cents each, we went aboard the "Caspian," w'hich was taking on coal, which was brought along In dump carts that were driven on board. The "Caspian" is a good sized side-wlieel steamer, and one of the pleasantest craft that we ever voyaged in. She has a large, well furnished and well lighted sa- loon, good staterooms, attractive dining saloon and a roomy deck. There was a fair number of first-class passengers beside ourselves, mostly Ca- nadians, with a sprinkling of American tourists (thanks be to Allah, none "personally conducted"), and one priost from Kentucky who was making a pilgrimage to Ste. Anne de Beaupre to be cured of deafness. What a broad, splendid waterway the St. Law- rence is, Btretdhing away to the northeast With scarcely a curve or bend. The "Caspian" proved to be capable of very good speed, and she belched forth a continuous volume of black smoke from her funnel, indicating soft coal below and lots of it It was a perfect day, with scarc^y a cloud vis- ible save on the far northern horizon, and the air ly, and, with on, we start, luebec at 9 t-offlce. decking the > cents each, was taking dump carts Lspian" is a one of the ed in. She lighted sa- ^ng saloon number of mostly Ca- an tourists »ndu€ted"), 3 making a )e cured of e St. Law- least With m" proved tie belched loke from nd lots of cloud vls- id the air In Pi ' ill ai I] \Mi i jwjl . 1 f faDfl V. 1 w [■\ m ; 1 MONTRSAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 63 was cool and bracing. The scenes along botb sbores were interesting to us, because they were entirely new. The country for nearly the entire distance of one hundred and eighty miles is al- most flat, excepting here and there steep blufiCs along the river banks. Here and there, as we steamed down the broad river, little liamlets ap- peared, each with its tall spired ohureh; and very pretty they looked against the vivid green back- ground. Here and there, wliere the river broad- ened, there were extensive marshes, some of them almost entirely covered with vivid crimson flow- ers. We passed several craft, coming up the river, curious, clumsy^ hulls with square bows, loaded with wood and barely moving, each under a sin- gle great square sail which looked not unlike a lateen sail, on a mast stepped well forward. Evi- dently they could only run before the wind; at least, they would have difficulty in luffing and I should like to witness tlie operation— from the bank,— for one of these curious craft would surely require the who»le width of the river. The channel is marked with frequent buoys, for we were told that the channel is constantly sliift- Ing and has to be carefully watched and dredged; and we passed several dredges at work. The first landing was at 'Sorel, a small place on the riglit bank, at the confluence of the Bidhelieu and the St. Lawrence: and it is a noteworthy fact that, in a forty or flfty foot steam launch, a voy- age can be made from the St. Lajwrence and the Atlantic Ocean at New York, by way of the Rich- elieu, Lake Ghamplain, the Ohamplain Qanal and i 111'. - 64 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. the Hudson River. This Is frequently done by canal boats. During the few minutes thr.L the steamer lay at Sorel, we had a g^od chance to observe the people, many of whom were at the wlharf , and they were well appearing, vivacious people, especially the girls, some of whom were very pretty. Soon after leaving SOrel we entered Lake St. Peter, which is simply a very broad place in the river; and such is its expanse that, looking directly aliead, the eye meets the horizon, just as it would at sea; thoug*h, on either side, the shores can, of course, be see^. The dinner gong sounded soon after entering the lake, and we forthwith repai^d to the dining- room. At our table there was a waiter whose English was so limited that he couldn't under- stand whether we wanted pommes de terre or "oeuf s" on toast. He appealed to the liead waiter, who relieved him and sent an Engli^ speaking Frenchman to our table. We sat by a wide, open window, from which we could look out at the shore; which reminded me of a voyage I once took along the south coast of Jamaica, only I could not quite see the shore of South America, although it was not very far away. After dinner we inspected the engine rooms, as we always do, and sihades of Fulton, of all the antiquated pieces of mechanism. It was built some fifty years ago; but, while rudely construct- ed and covered with rust, it forced the boat through the water without a tremor. On this deck were the passengers below flrst- dass, at which no first-class passenger ouglit to complain. r done by mer lay at the i>eople, they were «lally the Lake St. ice In the ig directly J It would sa can, of entering lie dining- er whose I't under- terre or Ld waiter, speaking ide, open it at the mce took could not though it ■ooms, as f aU the ras built onstruct- the boat ow flrst- :>ught to MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 66 At the lower end of Lake St Peter another land- ing was made, at Three Rivers, a place of consid- erable size, built along the river-bank at the foot of the blufif. Three Rivers is an important station of the Oanadian Pacific Railway, which runs along the left bank of the river. Half the population gathered at the landing, including several priests and policemen, the occasion being graced by the presence of the Ohlef of Police, as we observed by the letters on his chapeau. He looked like a Ck)S- sack in his quaint uniform, over the front of which bushy whiskers trailed like the water pouring down over the Falls of Montmorency. The Junior Partner tried to secure a photograph of this guar- dian of the peace, but the moment '^e leveled the camera toward the wharf half of the people there began to edge along so as to be included in the view, with the result that she was compelled to abandon the attempt. While we were on Lake St. Peter the steamer ran Into a squall, when the rain fell so heavily that the «rhores were obscured from view and every- body was driven inside; and It did not entirely cease raining until we were nearly up to Three Rivers. As we neared Quebec the levefl country was left behind and the bluffs were higher and ^eper, with hills beyond. Our journey was made stiiU more pleasant by the attention of Oaptain Craijg, who chatted with us concerning points on the river and rdated in