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MODERN GEOGRAPHY.

DESCRIPTION

/ , OP TH»

EMPIRES, KINGDOMS, STATES, AND COLONIES;

WITH THE

OCEANS, SEAS, AND ISLES;
IN ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD s

INCLUDING THE MOST RECENT DISCOVERIES AND
FOLITICAL ALTERATIONS.

DIGESTED ON A NEW PLAN,

BY JOHN PINKERTON.

THE ASTBONOMICAL INTRODUCTION
BY M. LA CROIX,

• t

TRANSLATED BY JOHN FOND, ESQ. ASTRONOMBR-ROt^&V r- -* ^

CAREFUXLT ABRIDGED FROM THE LAROL^; WQ&I^
IN TWO VOLUMES, QUARTO. ' '^'^

WITH MAPS,

To the whole are addtdf
A Catoiogw iff the left McfSt md Books ofTraodt and foyages, in aU

And an ample Index.

THE THIRD EDITION,
REVISED AND BNLABOUl BY THE AUTHOS.

ri->>-

...I

lONDON: if/

tRIMTED roft T. CAOUt Afro W. DAVIES, ITRANO ; AMD LOtTOMAM, BOWT, ltUI||i
ORMt, AN0 >«OWN, PATKBNMTWKOW. ^

^^9b^.

'-T\ :,.,

£:

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StrahananclPrcftoo,
IVmten-Screct, London.

■ *" . -'- ■-■"»'■

■■feii

PREFACE.

4»

THE Importance of geography as a f:ience, and f!ic exuberant
variety of knowleHge and amufemjnr which it exhibits, are
themes too trivial for argument or illuJlration. Eagerly attached
to this ftudy from his early years, the author always cherifhed a
hope that he might contribute his labours to its advancement. For
(nuch remained to be done ; and many literary men have long ad-
mitted, that great advantages might be derived from a new and^m«
proved fyftem of modern geography, the lateft popular works of
this nature not only abounding with numerous and grofs millakes,
but being fo imperfeft in their original plans, that the chief geo-
graphical topic6 have been facrificed to long details of hiliory, chro-
nology, and commercial regulations, wholly extranrous to the vry
nature of fuch a defign. When to this it is added, that the molt
recent and important difcoverics are either omitted, iraperfedly
illuilrated, or fo defectively arranged as to embarrafs and baffle: the
refearch of the moft patient inquirer, there is no reafon to be fur-
prifed at the general confeflion, that fuch compilations are only
ufed becaufe there is no better extant.

The fucceffive difcoveries in the Pacific Ocean, and other parts
of the globe, have, within thefe few years acquired fuch a certainty
and confiftency, that they may now be admitted and arranged, in
a regular and precife diftribution of the parts of the habitable world;
while the recent difcoveries of La Peroufe, Vancouver, and other
navigators, nearly complete the exa^ delineation of the continental
ihores. No period of time could be more favourable to the ap-
pearance of a new fyftem of geography, than the beginning of a new
century, after the elapfe of the eighteenth, which will be memorable
in all ages, from the gigantic progrcfs of every fcience, and in par-
ticular of geographical information; nor lefs from the furpruing
changes which have taken place in moft countries of Europe, and
ivhich of themfelves render a new defcnption indifpenfable. Whole
kingdoms have been annihilated -, grand provinces transferred} and
liich a general alteration has taken plac:f in ftat^s and boundatieSy
that a geographical work pubiiflied five years ago may be pronouuccd
to be already aati^uated.

A i| A new

PREFACE.

A new fyflem of geography is alfo fpccially autliorized and atl-
tlienticated, by the fingular advantage of feveral important booics of
travels having appeared within^hcfe few years, which introduce far
more light and precifion into our knowledge of many regions. The
embaflies to China, Tibet, and Ava, for example, prefent frefli and
authentic materials, without which recourfe muft have been had to
more remote and doubtful information ; and the Birman empire is
unknown to all fyftems of geogrnphy. The Rcfearches of the
AHatic Society, and other late works, difFufe a new radiance over
HindoHan, and the adjacent countries. The labours of the African
Society, the Travels of Park, Browne, and Barrow, have given
more precifion to our impei:fe«Sl knowledge of Africa : and the
journeys of Hearne and Mackenzie have contributed to difclofe the
northern boundari^rs of America. In (hort, it may be fafely af-
firmed, that more important books of Travels and other fources of
geogrsfphical information, have appeared within thefe few yearsy
than at any period whatever of literary hiftory.

Nor mull the rapid advances of natural hiftory be forgotten,
which now confer fuch fuperior precifion on tlie natural geography
of moft countries. Not only have zoology and botany received the
grcateft improvements" ; but geology and mineralogy have, within
."thefe twenty years, become entirely new and grand fciences ; the
■fubftances being accurately arranged, and defcribed with fuch clear-
nefs, that throughout the literary world they are exa£ily known and
difcriminated.

. Yet even with fuch advantages geography is far from being per-
fe£l ; and the familiar exclamation of D'Anville in his old age may
ftill be adopted : " Ah ! my friends, there are many errors in
geography." This fcience may indeed be regarded as imperfe£l in
its very nature, as no reafonable hope can be entertained that all
the habitable lands (hail, at any period of time, pafs under a trigo-
nometrical furvey, the only ftandard of complete exa£tne(s. The
chief defeats are the interior parts of Africa, and many portion*
even of the fliores; Tibet, and fome other central regions of Afia,
nay, even Perfia, Arabia, and Afiatic Turkey ; the weftern parts
of North America ; and the Spanifli fettlements in that part of the
new continent ; with the central and fouthern parts of South Ame-
rica. Of New Holland little is known, except the (bores : and
many difoovcries remain to be made in the Pacific Ocean, parti-
cularly the extent and interior part of New Guinea, and other large
lands in that quarter. Even in Europe the geography of Spain
and Portugal is very imperfe^i:, though not fo defeftive as that of
European Turkey; nor can we loudly boail while, as Major Ren-
TiCll informs us, there is no exaft chart of the Britiili Channel ;
and the trigonometrical furvey, fo far as it has extended, has de-
tected grofs errors in the maps of the counties. We have indeed
been generally more attentive to remote regions, than to our native
country ; and could a new fyflem have been pubiiftied with mord
advantages, than in the kingdorc which has given birth to the
greatell modern dircoveries and tn orovciuents in geography?

:: X With

PREFACE. ^

With the advantages, above enumerated, of new and important
difcoveries, of recent and authentic intelligence, and of the parti-
cular period of publication, there cannot be any great claim of merit
in prefenting a more complete fydem of geography, than has yet
appeared in any language ; for the Spaniards and Italians have been
dormant in this fcience, the French works of La Croix and others
mre too brief, while the German compilations of Bufching, Fabri,
Ebeling, &c. ice. are of a mod tremendous prolixity, arranged in
the moft taftelefs manner, and exceeding. In dry names and trifling
details, even the minutenefs of our Gazetteers. A defcription of
Europe in fourteen quarto volumes may well be contrafted with
Strabo's defcription of the world in one volume : and geography
feems to be that branch of fcience in which the ancients have eila*
hliftied a more claflical reputation than the moderns. Every great
literary monument may be faid to be erected by compilation, from
the time of Herodotus to that of Gibbon, and from the age of
Homer to that of Shakfpearc, but in the ufe of the materials there is
a wide difference between Strabo, Arrian, Ptolemy, Paufanias, Mel;i^
Pliny, and other celebrated ancient names, and modern general geo-*
graphers } all of whom, except JD'Anville, feem under-graduaces in
literature, without the didinguiflicd talents, or reputation, which
hzvt accompanied almoft every other literary exertion. Yet it may
fafely be affirmed, that a produ£lion of real value in univerfal geo-
graphy, requires a wider extent of various knowledge than any other
literary department, as embracing topics of the moft multifarious
defcription. There is however one name, that of D*AnviUe, pe-
culiarly and juftly eminent in this fcience ; but his reputation is
chiefly derived from his maps, and from his illuflrations of various
parts of ancient geography. In fpecial departments Goffellin, and
other foreigners, have alfo been recently diflinguiflied ; nor is it
neceflary to remind the reader of the great merit of Rennell and
Vincent in our own country.

With fuch examples, the author confefles hi} ambitious defire that
the prefent work may, at lead, be regarded as more free from de->
fcGts than any preceding fydem of modern geography. By the
liberality of the publifhers, no expence has been fpared incolle£ling
materials from all quarters; and the affemblage of books and maps
would amount to an expence hardly credible. If there be any failure^
the blame mud folely red with the author ; who being however
«onverfant with the fubje£t, from his early youth, when he was ac*
cudomed to draw maps, while engaged in theiftudy of hidory,and
-never having neglected his devotion to this important fcience, he
hopes that the ample materials will be found not to have been en-
truded to inadequate hands. He may affirm that the mod fedulous
attention has been exerted, in the fele^ion and arrangement of the
jnod interefting topics ; and he hopes that the novelty of the plan
will not only be recommended by greater eafe and expedition, in
vfing this work as a book of reference % but by a more drifl and
cUffical connexion, fo as to affisrd more clear and fatisfa^lory in-

A 3 formation

PREFACE.

formation on a general perufil. The nature and ca(es of t!ic plan
ihall be explained in thf preliminary obfervations, as being inti-
mately connected with other topics there inveftigated. It may
here luffice to obferve, that the obje«Sts mofl eflentially allied with
each other, inftead of being d fperfed as fragments, are here gathered
into dillinft heads or chapt< s.i, arranged in uniform progrefs, ex-
cept where particular circumltances commanded a deviation : and
inftead of pretended hiftories, and prolix commercial documents»
the chief attention is devoted to ful)je£ls ftriftly geographical, but
Vrhich in preceding fyftems have often appeared in the form of a
were lift of names, the evanefcent (hades of knowledge. Meagre- ,
details of hiftory can be of no fervice even to youth, and are foreign
to the name and nature of geography, which, like chronology, only
afpires to illuftrate hiitory ; and, without encroaching upon other
provinces, has more than fufficient difficulties to encounter. The
States are arranged according to their comparative importance, as it
is proper that the obje«Sts which deleave moft attention (hould be
treated at the greatefl: length, and claim the earlieit obfervation of
the (Indent.

Mr. Pond has rather chofen to tranflate the able introduc-
tion of M. La Croix, to the French editions of this work, than to
difplay his own talents on ihe parts of aftronomy, which are con-
nected with geography. For the botany of the feveral countries
this work is indebted to Mr. Arthur Aikin, a zealous and intelli-
cent cultivator of natural hiftory. It may be necelTary to remind
the unlearned reader, that the Latin names in this part are una-
voidable, becaufe plants not known in England muft rarely admit
of Englifh appellations.

Amid ft other advantages already indicated, the regular reference*
to the authorities, here obferved for the firfl: time in any geogra-
phical fyftem, will be admitted to be a confidcrable improvement,
not only as imparting authenticity to the text, but as enabling tht
reader to recur to the bed original works, when he is defirous of
more minute information. Yet this improvement is fo fimple that
the omifTion might feem matter of furprize, were it not that former
works of this nature will gv^ierally be found to be blindly copied
from preceding fyftems, with the Ible claim of fuperiority in error,
as muft happen in fucli calVs, where miftakes multiply, and an old
hallucination becomes the father of a numerous progeny. The ftrirt
quotation of authorities might alfo be rather dangerous in erroneous
details } and the omiftion is as convenient, as it is to pafs in filence
geographical doubts of great importance, which might prove peri-
lous ordeals of fciencc. Accuftumed to the labours and plcalures
of learning merely for his own mental.improvemtnt, as the delight
of his eafe, the relief of care, the folace of misfortune, the author
never helitates to avow his doubts, or his ignorance i nor fcruples
to Ticrifjce the little vanity of the individual to his grand obje^,
the advancrment of fciencc. An emphatic Arabian proverb de-
clares tlut ihe tmrs of tht learned ar4 itarmdt. and «vcii the mif-

PRtVACt.

Vli

tatces ol^ a patient and unbla£ted inquirer may often excite dlfcufnony
and a confequent elucic'ation of the truth.

A few words remain to be faid concserning the principles on
which the prefent abridgment of the original work has been formed.
The quarto edition, from its magnitude and confequent price, is
little calculated for general ufe as a fchool book, and for the fame
teafons may not be eafily acceflible by many who would gladly
avail themfelves of it in a cheaper form. To fupply this want,
the edition which is now fubmitted to the candour or the public,
has been prepared with much labour and pains. The ftyle of the
original, being for the moft part as concife as is confident with per*
fpicuity, has allowed, comparatively, but few opportunities for fuc-
teeding condenfation •, but wherever this was poflible, it has been
carefully pra£lifed. The geographical difcuflions interfperfed
throughout the work, as being the lead neceflary to the young
iludent in th*s fcience, have been curtailed with lefs referve i much
alfo of the technical and lead interelting parts of the botany and
mineralogy has been omitted. Other abbreviations of fmaller con-
fequence have been made, which it is unnecefTary to particularize.

Many particulars have been added from the late general enume-
k-ation of the inhabitants of England and Scotland ; the provincial
fubdivifions of the European dates have alfo been inferted, and
fuch other additions and alterations made as might give to the
work a fair claim on the patronage of the public.

To this new edition of the Abridgment is fubjoined an ample
index, which will be found ufeful) as it may often fupply the want
of a gazetteer.

The plan of the prefent work has met with general approbation
at home and abroad, as being more clear and conne£ted than any
before adopted. The proper arrangement, indeed, of any book of
fcience is judly regarded by all judges as the mod eflential quality.
In the education of youth, in particular a clear and lucid order be-
comes indifpcnfable, as imparting pleafure in the middof indruc-
tion, and as tempting to read what was before dudicd as a talk,
or only recurred to in cafes of neceflary confultation. Youth is
often deterred from improvement by the ufe of confufed and an*
tiquated fydems, at which even knowledge would revolt, and eru-
dition itfelf be embarrafled. Throughout the whole of this abridg-
ment accuracy has alfo been dudied as far as human frailty would
permit } for in education ignorance itfelf is preferable to error.
The fcientific works of France have been long celebrated for clearnefs
of arrangement *, yet the prefent abridgment, even at a period of
violent animofity, has been preferred to their own elementary
books of geography, and adopted in their colleges and academies $
and experience has declared, that the attempt has been followed
by more fpeedy and folid indru^on.

( *"« )

LIST OF THE MAPS,
With DireFlions for pbcing them.

' No. I. Plamfphere,

2. Europe,

3, Brttiih Ifles,
„ 4. France,

5. RuQia in lEurope,

6. Spain and Portugal,

7. Italy and Turkey,

8. Sweden, Denmark, &c.

9. Germany,
ip. Afia,

,, II. Eaft Indies,
12. North America,
, 13. Weft Indies,

14. South America,

15. Africa,

to face Page i

• 4

• 115

140

>93

212
234
284

3'4

414

535
- 658

74*

.*- ■" .

.' «• .. , ,■

; r. ••

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

4
o

4
4
f

INTRODUCTION, p. i. -- Jpommlcal Elements necejfary for
the Study of Geography. — Co.'iJIruSIwi and Ufe of different
Reprefentations of the Earth and different Parts of the, Earth,
Tables relating to the Magnitude and Figure of the

Earth, p. Ixxv.
Table of Latitudes anp Longitudes, p. Ixxxv.

Preliminary Observations, p. i. .

EUROPE, general View of, p. 4. — Extentt Limits, Anciemt
Population, Progrejftve Geography, Religion, Climate, Inland
Ssas, Sand-banks, Rivers, and Mountains, — Governments^
Arrangement,

England, Chap. i. p. 10. — Names. — Extent. — Original
Population, — Progrejfve Geography. — Heptarchy, and
Shires or Counties. — Hijhricol Epochs. — Antiquities^
Druidic, Belgic, Roman, Saxon, Danifli, Norman,
Chap. ii. p. 17. — Religion, Ecclefiajlic Geography and
JurifdiSliou, SeSlaries. — Government. — Judicature and
Laws. — Population. — Army,'^ Navy, — Revenue, —
Political Importance.

* Chap. iii. p. 28. — Manners and Cujloms. — Language. —

Literature. — Artf. — Education. Univerfities, — Cities
and Towns ; Ltndon, Tork, Liverpool, Bri/fol, Bathp
Manchefler, Birmingham, Sheffield, Falmouth, Dorchefler^
Sali/bury, JVinche/ler, Portfmouth, Lewes, Brighthelmjlontf
. , Canterbury, Hereford, Gloucejler, Worceffer, Coventry^
Norwich, Yarmouth, Lincoln, Lancqfter, Hull, Leeds^
Durham, Stockton, Newcaftle, Berwick, CaermarthentCaer"
tiarvon. — Edifices and Gentlemen* s Seats. ^Bridges. — /«-
landNavigationandCanals.—Manufa^uresandCcmmeree*

SnCLAMD, Chap. iv. p. 49. — Climate and Seafons, — Face of tht

Country,— SoilandAgiculture,^^ Rivers; Severn,Thames,

Humbtr, Merfey^ \sfc» — Mountaim*^' Fmllt, — Botany,

. , • ^'Zoology*

^mm

CdNtENtS.

•—Zootog^, — Mineralogy i Titty Copper^ Leaa, irotty tloait
Rock/alt. — Mineral Heaters. — Natural Curiqftties. —
Englijh IJlands : Wight y Guernfeyy Jerfey^ Eddi/lone,
Scilly IJleSf Lundayy Atiglefey^ Mali.
SCOTLAND) Chap. i.p. 64. — Nantes, — Extent. — Civil I^ iv'tftoni.-^
Original Population. — Progreffive Geography. — Hijiorical
Epochs. — Antiquities.

Chap. il. p. 6g. — Religion. — Ecclejiqjlic Geography, — Go-
vermncnt. •— Laivs. — Population.

Chap. iii. p. 71. — - Afanners and CttJloiHs. — Language. —
Literature. ^— Education. — ■ Univerfities. — Cities ana
Towns : Edinburgh^ Glafgonvy Perthy DundeCy Aberdeen,,
tsfc. — Edifices . — Inland Navigation.

Chap. iv. p. 79. — Climate and Seafons. — Pace of the Coun^
try.— 'Soil and Agriculture. — Rivers; Eorthy Clydcy Tayt
Tweedy Decy Speyyl^c. — Lakes; Lomondy Tayy Nefs,

. Awcytj^c. — Mountains y Lead hills y Ochillsy Grampians.

— Parens. — Botany. — Zoology . — Mineralogy. — Mineral
Waters. — Natural Curioftties. — Scotifj IJlesy Hebudes,
OrkncySy Shetlands.

IeELANDi Chap. i. p. 99. — Names, — Extent. -^Original Population,

•—Progre/ftve Geography, — Hijiorical Epochs . — Antiquities,

Chap- ii. p. 102. — Religion. ^^ Eccleftajlical Geography,-"*

Government. — Civil Diviftons. — Population, — Army,

RevenueSy Political Importance.

Chap. iii. p. 104. — Manners and Cujloms, ^^ Language,

— Literature. — Education and Univerfities, — Cities and
Towns ; Duhliny Corky Limericky Galwayy Londonderry,
Belfafly Wexfordy Waterfordy lie. — Edifices. — Roadi,

— Inland Navigation. — ManufaElures and Commerce.
Chap. iv. p. log, '^•Climate and Seafons. — Face of the coun-*

try. — Soil and Agriculture, — Rivers ; Shannony ^c, —
Lakes; Neagh, Earn, Killarney. — Mountains.—"
Forefls. — Bogs. — Botany. — Zoology. — Mineralogy ;
Goldy Silvery i^c. — Natural Curioftties. — Ifiands.
FllAMCE« Chap. i. p. 1 15. — Names. --^ Extent. — Original Popula-
tion. — Progrefjtve Geography ; Ancient Provinces j new
Departments. —Hi/lorical Epochs. — Antiquities.
Chap. ii. p. lao. — Religion. — Eccleftajlical Geography,

— Government. — Population. — Colonies. — Army, —
Navy. — Revenue, — Political Importance,

Chap. iii. p. 123. — Manners and Cujloms, — Language.—^
Literature — Education — Univerfities. — Cities and Towns ;
Parisy Lyons y Marfeilles, Bourdeaax, Brejiy Nantes y t^c.
Edifices. — Inland Navigation,—- Manufa6ittres and T^ade,
Chap. iv. p. 128. — Climate and Seafons — Face of the
Country. — Soil and Agriculture. — Rivers ; Seine, Loire,
Rfjone, Garonne, — Lakes, — Mountains ; Vofges, Mount

Jura,

Franc I

CONTENTS.

yurOf Cevennes, Pyrennees. — Forefls,—- Botany. -^Zoo*
logy. — Mineraloi.>;y. — Mineral IVaters. — Natural Cw
rioftties. — French IJles ,• Corfica^ HyereSy Oleron^ l^c.
Netherlands, p 135. — Names.— ^Extent. — Original Population,
— Antiquities. — Religion . — Population — Manners and
Cujlonts. — Literature. — Education. — Cities and Towns g
Brujfelsy Ghenty Antiverf> — Sea Ports. — Edijices. — In-
land Naingation ManufaBures and Commerce. — CYz-

mate and Stafons. — Rivers , Scheldt Dy^'t ^c. — Moun^
taint f ^c. — Botany . -^ Mineralogy.
Russia in Europe, C'lap. i. p. 140. — Extent. — Boundaries."'-
Names. — Original Population. — Progrejjive Geography*
—^ Provinces. ■"^Hiflorical Epochs. — Antiquities,
Chap. ii. p. 143.— i2f//g^/o« and Eccleftaftical Geography,-^-
Govern ment .—'Laws, — Population , — Navy, — Revenues*
Political Importance.
Chap. ill. p. 148. — Manners and Cujloms. --^^ Language, •-»
Literature, — Education. '^Cities and 7 owns i MofcoWf
Peter/hurgf A/lracan, ^c, — Inland Navigation. — Ala-
nufaSlures and Commerce.
Chap. iv. p. 152. — Climate end Seafons. — Face of the
Country. — Soil and Agriculture,,— Rivers ; VolgOf Don^
Nieper^ Niejier^ Dwina^ isfc. — Lakes. — Mountains ;
OhnetZt Uralt ^c. — Fore/Is. — Botany. — Zoology, —
Minerahgi).— Mineral Waters. — Natural Curiofities.-^^
Rujfic.n IJles ; Cronftadty Novaya Zemlia^ Spitzbergen,
Austria, Chap. i. p. 162. — Names. -^Extent and Provinces,--^
Original Population —^Provrefjlve Geography, — Hi/lorical
Epochs ; of Auflrietf of Hungary^ of Tranfylvania, of
Bohemia t of Venice. — An Equities.
Chap. ii. p. i6B. — Religtofi. — Government. -"-LaiuT,-^

Population. — Army.—Riz enue. — Political Importance,
Chap. iii. p. I'jo.^-' Manrt \' t and Cudoms.— Language,-^
Literature. — Education md Univerfities, — Cities end
Townf ; r? fna^ Venice ^ Pi t gue,GratZi Pre/burg^ Budafira*
ccw, Trie/le, ^c.-^-EdiJices. —Manufa^ures and Commerce,
Chap. iv. p. 175. — Climate and Seafons . — Face of the Coun»
try. — Soil and Ai>r>rUiture. — Rivers s Danube, Tiejs,
Inn, Elbty Adige, i^.—Lnkrs, "^Mountains ; Tyrolefe
Alps, Er%-ehergy Carpathian. — (Forefts.'— Botany,-^
Zioloay.— Mineralogy t Qo/d, Silver, ^tickftlyer, Upalf
Rock flit, Soda, isfc. — Natural Curiftties.
pRUISIA, Chap. i. p. 1 3 2.-^ Names. —Extent. — Suhdivifons, and
Population, — Original Population. — Progrefftve Geogra*
phy. — Hi floriral Epochs, of Brendenburgh, of Prujffia, $f
Poland. — Antiquities .
I^AQStlA, Chap. U. p. \Z6.'-—ReUgionandEccleliaJiicalGeography.'-*
Ge/vernmetUt'^Army. -^-'Revenues, — Peiitieal Importance,

laf Ch-i^:.

CONTENTS.

. V ■' Chap. m.^»li'].'-- Manners and Cujioms.^-Langtiage.'—
. , .., Literature. — Education and Univerftties. — Cities and
Towns i Berlin, Konigsburgi WarfaWi BreJlaUi Dantzic,
' .. Pot/dam, ^c. — Edifices. — ManufaElures and Commerce.

■ •. Chap, iv, p. 190.-— C/r'wfl/^ and Seafons. — Face of the
Country. — Soil and Agriculture. — Lakes; Curifch-Hoff,
Frifch.Haffii^c. — Mountains ; Sudetic, iSc. — Forejls. —
'Botany. — Zoology. — Mineralogy ; Amber. — Mineral
Waters. — Natural Curioftties.
Spain^ Chnp.i. p. 193.^ — Names. — Extent. — Original Population.— ^
' _ Progrefflve Geography.'-^ Hijlorical Epochs. — Divifions —
Antiquities ; Alhambra.
Chap. ii. p. 197 — Religion and Ecdefiqjlical Gengrrphy. —
Government. — Laws. — Population. — Colonies. • — Army
and Navy. — Revenues . — Political Importance.
Chap, iii.p. 199. — Planners and Cujloms. — Language. —
Literature. — Univerftties. — Cities and Towns ; Madrid,
^ Cadiz, Afalaga, Barcelona, Corunna, Saragojfa, Toledo,

. /, . . Badajos, Granada. -^-^ Edifices, Efcurial. — Inland Navi-
gation. — ManufaSiures and Commerce.
« Chap. iv. p. S06. -— Climate and Sca/hns. — Face of the

^ Country. — Soil and Agriculture. — Rivers. — Lakes. —

Mountains, of Gallicia, Mcntes Carpentanos, Sierra Morena,
, . Sierra Nivada, Montferrat.—Forefis. '•^Botany. — Zoology,

fc • ^"Mineralogy ; Mines of Almaden. — Mineral Waters. —

Natural Curioftties. — Spanifi) Ifles ; Majorca, Minorca,
^ - Eviza,

Turkey in Europe, Chap. i.p.2i2. — Names and Provinces. —
. , ,. Extent, — Original Population. — Progrejfive Geography,
— Hiftorical Epochs. — Antiquities,
Chap. ii. p. 216. — Religion.'— Government. ~—P(ipt4lation,
^ • — Army and Navy, — Revenues. — Political Importance.
Chap. iti. p. 218. — Manners and Cti/Joms. — Language and
Literature. — Education. — Cities and Towns ; . Cottflanti-
nopU, Aprianople, Belgrade, i^c— Edifices.-— Mantfac-
tures and Commerce.
Chap. iv. p. 221. — Clitnate and Seafons. — Face of the
^ , Country. — Soil and Agriculture. — Rivers \ Danube,
Maritz, tlfc. Lakes, — Mountains ; Bajlarnic Alps,
.' Hamus, Pindus, Olympus, OJfa, Atbos. — • Botany. —

^ } . Zoology. — Mineralogy, «— Natural Curiofties > Grotto of

Antiparos.—- I/lands ; Crete, Eubeea, the Cyclades,
HoLLANDi Chap. i. p.225. — Names. — Extent. — Diwfians.-^
Original Population. — Progreffive Geography. — Hifiorical
Epochs. — Antiquities.
Cliap. ii. p. 228. — Religion and Eeelefiafiic Geography.--^
Government, — Laws. — Population. — Colonies. -^ Artriy
tin.d N(ivy.--'.Iitv<nvf,'^ Political Importance.,

I ^ ' HOUANU,

*<»

CONTENTS.

and
zicf

the
1^

ral

HoLLAND)Chap.ui. p. :229. — Manners and Cujioms. — Languageand

Literature. — Education. — Cities and Towns ; Amjlerdam^

Leyden^ Rotterdam^ Haarlentf the Hague, Middleburg, Mae»

Jlriiht^'^InlandNavigation. — ManufaElures andCommerce,

Chap. iv. p. 232. — Climate and Seafons. — Soil and AgricuU
tiire.-— Rivers,— Lakes, — Botany. — Zoology. — Minera*
logy; Peat,
Denmark, Chap. i. p. 234. — Names. — Extent. — Diviftons. — Ori^
ginal Population, — Progreffive Geagraphy. — Hijlorical
Epochs ; of Denmark^ of Norway. — Antiquities,

Chap. ii. p. 23 7 . — Religion, — Government. — Laws. — PI9-
pulation. — Colonies. — Army and Navy. — Revenue, —
Political Importance.

Chap. iii. p. 239. — Manners and CuJloms i Laplanders^
Icelanders. — Language. —'Literature. — Education. — C7>//-
verftties. — Cities and Towns ; Copenhagen, Bergen, Altona,
Chrifliana, Drontheim. — Edtfices. — Inland Navigation.— ~
Manufa£lures and Commerce.

Chap. iv. p. 243. — Climate and Seafons. — Face of the Conn"
try. — SoilandAgriculture.- — Rivers. — Lakes. — Motintainsg)
Lang fiall, Dofrafiall, Kolen. — Forejls. — Botany . — Zoology*
— yiineralogy ; Silver Mines of Kongjherg, Copper Mines of ,
Rorast — Mineral Waters .•'— NaturalCuriofities : Maljlrotttf
Mt, Hecla. — Danifli Iflands i Ferroe, Iceland^ isfc.
Sweden, Chap. i. p. 249. — Names. — Extent. — Divifions. — Origi'
eal Population. — Progre^vcGeography,- '•Hi/loricalEpocl.vl
— Antiquities,

Chap. ii. p. 25s. — Religion and Eccle/tTjiical Geography,— ^
Government t-— Population, — Colonies, ~ Army and Navy,
— Revenue.— -Political Importance,

Chap. iii. p. 2$'^,-— Manners and Cu/loms. — Language.— m
Literature. — Education,— Cities and Towns; Stockholm,
Upfid, Gothenburg, tsfc— Edifices, — ^Inland Navigation,
— ManufaElures and Commerce,

Chap. iv. p. 256. — Climate and Seafons. — Face of the Coun^
try. — Rivers; DahltTornea^lsfc. — Lakes; WenertJVeter,
,.. Afeler,Enara,Pejend. — Mountains. — Forces. — Botany."^
Zoology. — Minerahgy:GoldMincsofAdelfors,Coppi'r Alines
cfFahlun, Iron Alines of Danemora, Taberg, and Lulea.—
Swedijh IJlands; Rugcn, Oeland, Gothland, ^c,
Portugal, Chap. i. p. 262. — Names, — Extent, — Progrejfive Gea-
grophy, — Hijlorical Epochs. — Antiquities,

Chap. ii. p. 263. — Religion. — Government.'^ Divi/ions and
• " Population,- Colonies. — Army and Navy, — Revenues.—'

. ' . Political Importance.

Chap. iii. p. 264. — Aianmrs and CuJloms, — Language,— •
Literature, — Education. — Cities andTowns; L'Jhon, Oporto^
l^c, — Edifices, — Alanufa^ures and Commerce,

1 8 . Portugal,

>«M

xlv

CONTENTS.

FoRTUCrAL) Chap. iv. p. 267. — Climate mid Seafons — Face of ihs
Country, — Rivers. — Motwtuins. — ZoJjgy. — Mineralogyi
Roman Alines. — Mineral Waters. — Natural Curiofiiics,
SwiSStRLAND, Chap. 1. p. 27 1. — Names.— r Extent. -^Divijtom- —
Orig'mal PopuLtion. — Frogrejfive Gejgraphy.'-fHtJiorical
Epochs. — Antiquities.
Chap ii. p 27 J . — Religion. — G^ivermnrnt. — Pcpulation.—

Army — Revenue. — Political Importance.
Chap. lii. p. 274. — Manners and Cujloms.-r- Language.'— '
laiterature. — Education. — Cities ndToivns; Bajel.Bernet
Zurich, Laufanne, ^c. — Edifices. — Commerce ana Manu'
fflElm'es.
Chap'. iv. p. 116.— Climate and Seafons. — Face of the Coun-
try. — Rivers t Rhine, Aar, Reufs, Limtnat, Rhone, Thur,
— Lakes { of Confiance, Geneva, Neufchatel, Zurich, Istc. —
'i ^ Mountains^ Alps, St. Gothard. Mt. Blanc, ^c. — Botuny.
•— Zoology. — Mineralogy . — Mineral Waters . — Natural
Curioftties i Glaciers, Avalanches, Source of the Rhone,
Waterfalls.
German States, Chap. i. p. 284. — Extent. — Original Population.
— Pr^grcffiveGeography. — Hifiorical Epochs . — Antiquities,
—•Religion. — Government. — Populati n. — Face of the Coun-
try. — Rivers i Elbe, Wefer, Rhine, Dafwbe, Neckar —
Lakes. — Mountains ; Hartz, Ertzgeberg, Schivartzivald,
^c. — Fore/Is. — Botany. — Zoology,
Chap. ii. p. 289. — Saxony { Hifiorical Epochs^ Religion,
Government, Army, Literature, Cities and Towns, Manu-
failures. Minerals. — Hanover ; Extent, Population, Hifiory,
Literature, ManufaRures, and N.'tural ProduBs. — Ofna-
truck. -—Hejfe.'— Mecklenburg. — Brunfwick. — Hamburgh,
tsfc.
Chap. iii. p. 2^)^.^— Bavaria and the Palatinate.-— 'Wurtem-
burg. — Anfpach and Bareuth . — - Salzia . — Baden. — H^e
Darntfladt. — Nuremburg.
IfALT^ Chap. i. p. 299. — Divifons. — Boundaries.— Face of the CouH'
try.— 'Rivers $ Po, Arno, Tiber. — Lakes, — Mountnins i
Alps, Apennines, Vefuvius, Etnay Stramboli, ^c. — Fonjls.
'•^Botany. — Zoology,
Chap. ii. p- 305. — Naples and Sicily; Extent, Population,
Hifiory, Religion, Cities and Towns, ManufaElures, Reve»
nue, Army, Navy. — Malta.
Chap. iii. p. 3 07. — Papal Territory, Rome. — Tifcany, Lucca,

—Ifie of Elba.
Chap. iv. p. 3 10. — Piedmont. — Cifalpine Republic.-^ Man-
tua. — Alodena. — Parma and Placentia, — Ligurian Re*
public, Genoa.
ASIA| p. 314. — Extent. — Original Population. — ProgrefftveGeogra-
fhy,— Religions, — Scasj Red ^Perftan Gulf, Cafpian,Aral^

Baiktd,

CONTENTS,

Baihali Beering*s Straits. — Rivers. '•^Mounte^ns.'—Gf^
vermnents. — Arrangmetit.
"JTUHKET in Asia, Chap. i. p. 321. — Extent. -^Divifions, — OW-
ginal Population. — Progrejfive Geography. — Hijlsricd
■ . Epochs. — Antiquities s Palmyra^ B^l^ec, Plain of Troym

Chap. ii. p. 322. — Population, ^c.

Chap. iii. p. 323. — Manners and Cufloms.-^-^ Cities and
Towns ; Aleppo^ Damafius, Smyrna^ Prufoy Angora f^^ohctt^
Ba£oray Bagdad, Jerufalem. — Manufa&ures.
Chap. iv. p. 325. — Climate and Seajons. — Face of the Coutt'*
try. — fivers; Euphrates, Tigris, Halys, Maander, Oron-
tes, ^c. — Lakes; Dead Sea. — Mountains; Taurus, Ara^
rat, Lebanon, Olympus, Ida.— -Fore/Is . — Botany. -^Zoology.
-—Mineralogy. — Mineral Waters. — IJlands j Lejbos^
Chios, Samos, Rhodes, Cyprus.
llussjA in Asia, Chap. i. p. 331. — Extent. — Boundaries. — Ori~
ginal Population. — Names. — Progrejftve Geography.'-^
, Hiftorical Epochs. — Antiquities.

Chap. ii. p. 334. — Religion. — Government.— 'Population,
Chap. iii. p. 335. — Manners and Cujloms, Monguls, Kal-
muks. — Language. — Cities and Towns; AJlracan, Tobol/k^
^c. — Manufailures. — Commerce.

Chap. iv. p. 339. — Climate and Seafons Face of the Coun»

try. — Soil and Agriculture. — Rivers; Ob, fentjei, Selinga^

Lena, Onon,^c.— Lakes. — Mountains ; of Altai, of Ner.-

fhink, of Caucafus. — Forejls. — Steps. — Botany. — Zoology,

— Mineralogy; Gold, Copper, Iron, Topaz, Beryl, Jafper^

Lapis Lazuli. — Mineral Waters. — IJlands.

China Proper, Chap. i. p. 350. — Names. — Extent.-— Original

Population. — Progreffive Geography. — Ht/lorical Epochs,

— Antiquities ; great Wall.

Chap. ii. p. 352. — Religion. — Government.— -Laws, --^

Population. — Political Importance.
Chap. iii. p. 355. — Manners and Cufloms. — Language.—-^
Education. — Cities and Towns ; Pekin, Nankin, Canton,

— Edifices. — Roads. — Inland Navigation.— Manufac^
tures and Commerce.

Chap. iv. p. 359. — Climate and Seafons Face of the Coun*.

try. — Agriculture. — Rivers; Hoan-ho, Kian ku.— Lakes,

— Mountains. — For efts. —Botany. — Zoology,— ^ Minera-
logy. — IJlands ; Formofa, '• • ^

Chinese Tatary, Chap. i. p. 363.— JVaw^j. — Extent. — Original
• ^ Population, — Progriffive Geography. — Hijlorical Epochs,

— Antiquities,

Chap. ii. p. 365. — Religion, — Government. — Population,—^
' Diviftons : Mandftjurs, Ccreans, Alonguls. — Army.

Chap. iii. p. 366. — Manners and Cujloms. — Language,'-^
Literatttre. — Cities and Towns; Cnjhgar, Turfan, ^c—
Trade.
Chinese Tat^rt, Chap. iv. p. i69.— Climate,— Face of the Coun-

xvi

CONTENTS.

ty)\— 'Agriculture. — Rivers; Amm'^ tsfe.—^Lakes.--^
Mountains. — Botany. — Zoology. •— 'Mineralogy, — IJle of
Sagalian,
Tibet, p. 371. — Names. —'Extent. — Boundaries and Provinces.— ^
Progreffive Geography. •■ — Hijlory. — Religion.'— 'Govern"
ntent. — Revenues. — Manners and Cujloms. — Language,
— Cities and Tovtns. — Edifices. — ManufaSlures. -—Trade,
— Climate.— 'Face of the Country. — Rivers ; Berhampooterf
Gagra, ^c. — Lakes. — Mountains. — Fore/Is. — Zoologys
fait Mufk Deer^ ^c.—^ Mineralogy i Tincal,
Japan, Chap.i. p. 379- — Names. — Extent. — Progrejftve Geography,
— Hijlorical Epochs. — Antiquities.
Chap. ii. p. 381 . — Religion. — Government. — Laws. —

Population. — Colonies. — Army. — Revenues.
Chap. iii. p. 384. — Manners and Cujloms. — Language.'—
Literature.'^ Education. — Cities and Towns j Jedo^ Miaco^
Nagafahi. — Manufadlures and Commerce,
Chap. iv. p. 2^1 '-^Climate and Seafons. — Face of the Coun-

try. — Agriculture. Rivers. — Lakes, — Mountains. — •

Volcauces.-r-'Botavy. — Zoology. — Mineralogy; Goldj Sil'
vert Copper,
BiHMAN Empirf., Chap. i. p. 390. — Name. — Extent and Bounda-
ries. — Original Population , — Progressive Geography.'—
Hijlory.
Chap. ii. p 393. — Religion.— Laws.— 'Government. — Popu-
lation — Army and Navy.— Revenue. — Political Importance.
Chap. iii. p. 395. — Alanners and Cujloms. — Language and
Literature. — Cities; Ummerapoora, Ava, PegUf Rangoon j
l^c. — Edifices. — ManufaHures, — Commerce.
Chap. iv. p. 398. — Climate and Seafons. — Face of the Coun-
try. — Rivers. — Mountains, — Fore/Is. — Botany. — Zoo-
. logy^ — Mineralogy: Rttby^ Sapphire.
MalATA or Malacca, p. J^oi.— Progreffive Geography. — Name.—
. Language. — Produ^s.'— City of Malacca. — Manners and

Cufioms. — Andaman I/lands. — Nicobar Ifles,
Sum, Chap. i. p. 40^.'— Name. — Extent and Boundaries, — Pro-
greffive Geography. — Hifiorical Epochs.
Chap. ii. p. 406. — Religion. — Government. — Laws.—Popu-
, , : j tation. — Army.— Navy. — Revenue. — Political Importance,

Chap. ill. p. 407. — Manners and Cufioms, — Language.—
Literature. — Cities and Towns. — Edifices. — Manufac-
tures and Commerce.
Chap. iv. p. 410. — Climate and Seafons, — Face of the Cotitt"
try. — Soil. — Agriculture. — Rivers. — Mountains, — Zco-
logy, — Mineralogy.— Laos. — Cambodia,— Siampa,'— Co-
chin China. — Tunquin,
HinDOSTAN; Introduction, p. 414. — General Geography.'— -Gene"
rat Divifions ; Gangetic Hindofian^ Sindetict Central and
Southern. — Political Divifions ; Briti/h Pojfeffions, Britijb
Allies, Maratta States, Soubah of the Deccan, Seih,
•■ .,; ^:r- '•■ m'- '-"■*' - HiN-

CONTENTS

XT»

riiNDOSTANt Chap.i. p.418. — Name, — Boundaries, — • Original

Population, -^ProgrejUlve Geography.— 'HiJiory'-^ChronO''

logy. — Hijlorical Epochs. — Ancient Monuments, — Mytho'

s r vn logy,— ^Religion. — Government.-— Laws.— Population,-^

^, *■ Revenues. — Political Importance.— ^Manners and Cujloms,

• . r; \ - — Languages. — Literature, — Univerfities. — Manufac*

j,t^„ tures, — Climate and Seafons.—Face of the Country. ^—^Soil,

— Rivers i GangeSfBurrampooter,Jemma, Indus iGodaveri,

V. i Nerl/udda, Ki/lna, isfc. — Lakes.— ^Mountains,— Fore/Is.—

.1. Botany. — Zoology; Elephant, Tiger.— Mineralogy, Dia-'

. mond Mines, — Natural Curiofities,

Chap.ii. p.437. (Gangetic Hindoftan.) — Extent and Divi-

"■- , fons. — Briti/h Pojfeffions. — Revenue. — Government.— At"

my.— Cities and Towns ; Calcutta, Dacca, Patna, Benares,

Delhi.

Chap. ill. p.440. (SIndetic Hindoftan.) — Extent,— Cities:

and Towns ; Sirhind, Lahore, Cafljmir, Tatta,
Chap.iv. p.443. (Central Hindoftan. )—J?o««</an>/.—C/riVx.

and Towns ; Amedabad, Surat, Bombay. — Pirates.
Chap.v. p.445. (Southern Hindoftan.) — Boundaries,—^
Briti/h Pojfejftons. — Cities and Towns; Seringapntam, Call*
cut, Madras, Arcot, Cochin, Goa, Hydrabad, ^c.
Ceylon, p.447. — Extent and Names. — Religion. — Pcpulation.—*
Manners and Cujloms. — Towns; Kandi, Columbo, Trin-
eomali. — Manujfaflures. —Climate. — Rivers. — <Mcun»
,^ tains. — Forejls. — Zoology. — Mineralogy; Ruby,Tobaz,
Cafs-eye. — Pearls. — IJles of Maldives and Lacadives.
Persia, Chap.i. ip. 4^1.— General Divi/ions.— Names.— Extent.— ^
Population.*— Progrejjive Geography. — Provinces, — Hijlori-
cal Epochs.-— Antiquities ; Perfepolis.— Modern Hijlory : (jf
Wijlern Perfta, of Eajlern Perfta.
Chap.ii. p.45;. — Religion; Parfees^ Mahometans. — Govern*
-.:■■ ment. — Population. — -Navy. — Revenues. — Political Im-

portance.
. y\\ ^ Chap.iii. ^,/^^g,— Manners and Cujloms.— Languages.—
Education. — Cities and Towns; Ifpahan, Shiraz, Tejiis,
Derbenti 5s*r. — Edifices,— ManufaElures and Commerce,
Chap.iv, p. 464. — Climate, — Face of the Country.— <Soil ana
Agriculture.— Rivers ; Gihon, Araxes, Kur, Qfc.—^Lahes,
.. > —Mountains.^ — Deferts.— Fore/Is. — Botany. — Zoology.—
Mineralogy. — Mineral Waters, —■■ Natural Curiofities ;
Naphtlni Springs at Baku,
Independent Tatary, Chap.i. (General Obfervations.) p. 47 2.
. . *' ^ v.'i Name, — Extent. — Divijions.—v Progrejfive Geography, t-
Modern Geography. -^ — Towns. -— Hijlory,— ^Religion.
Chap.ii, (Defcription.) p.47j. — Kirgufes; Stepp of Ijftm.
Manners and Cujhms, Trade, Hifiory.—IChari/m. — Great
— ..vj, Bucharia; Extent and Boundaries, Hijlory, Religion,

,ag\jtv*&^ii Manners aftd Cujloms, Provinces^ Cities, Samarkand,
,'ViV!*\ . J|:^ , ., , Bokhara,

if*

XvlU

CONTENTS.

^AMp-^ jSolharot Balk, tsfe, — ManufaEiuteSi Climate^ Rivers,

jium, Sirr, SsV-.; Lakes, Mountains, Belttr, Hindoo Kohs

Mineralogy, CharaBer of the Country and People.

ARABIA) Chap.i. p. 484. — Boundaries,— Population. — Progrefflve

Geography. '-^Hifiorical Epochs, — Religion.— Government,

-i' • .: , > „^ Manners and CuJioms.'-'Drefs. — Language,'-^duea»

.>>i*:--^ tion, -— Cities and Towns; Mecca, Medina, Jedda.—^

■ Edijices. — ■ MamtfaBures. — 'Commerce.

Chap. ii. p. 49 1. — Climate and Seafons.—^Face of the Country*

"•'• ■ '~'- — Soil and Agriculture. — Rivers,-— Mountains, Deferts.-^m

.' Botany, — Zoology.'—Mineralogy. --'Natural Curiojities,^^

yies; Socotra, Bahrin.

Asiatic Islands {Introc!u£lion.)» P'495' — Boundaries and Extent,

'—Aufiralafta. — Polynefta,

Ifles of Sunda, p.497. — Sumatra,^— Banca—Najau I/les.—^

• "' Java, Batavia. — Madura,

Borneo, p. 501.

■ .4..: ., Manillas, p.502 — Luzon, Manilla.^ MinJano. — Pula»

wain, ^c.
Celebezian Ifles, p. 503. — Celebez, — Sanguy.—Bouta/t.—^

* ■ Sola.

Spice Iflands, p.504.— G/7c/(j. — Ceram. — Bouro'-^Myfol,'—
*"" .. ' Ouh: .'-Batchian. — Mctir. — Tidore. — Ternat. — Amboyna,

•:••'*'-' —Banda.

Australasia, P.50S. — Neiv ihlland; Englifj Colony, Natives;

ClimntP and Seafons, Zoology, — Papua, or New Guinea;

Population, Birds of Paradife. — New Britain, New Ire.,

"' ^ land, Solomon IJles. — New Caledonia. — New Zealand;

Manners and Cujloms, — Van Dieman*s Land,

Polynesia, p. 5 18. — Pelew Ifles. — Ladrones. — Carolines. — Sand-*

wich Ifles ; Manners, Climate, Zoology. — Marque/as. —

' Society Ifles ; Oiaheite; Natives, Religion, Zoology, Mine-

-u'V ,..;; ralogy, ^c; Eajler IJland. — Friendly IJles ; Tongataboo,

IJles of Navigators. — Botanfofthe A/iatic Ifles,
AMERICA, p.530. — Extent, — Progrejive Difcovery and Settle-
ments. --7- Population.
North America, p. 535. — Boundaries, — Original Population.— >
Language.- — Progrefftve Geography . — Religion. — Climate,.
•—Inland Seas ; Gulf of Mexico, of California, of St. Law-
"" ranee, Hudfon's Sea, Davis* s Gulf. — Laket of Canada,

,1..;^,. Slave Lake, ^c. — Rivers; MiffiJJippi, Mijpiuri, Ohio,
St'.Lawence, t5'f.'= — Mountains; Stony Mountains, Apa-
lachian, l5?c.
United States, Chap.i. p. 543. — DiviJtons.-^-^Boundaries — Ori»
ginal Population — Hiflorical Epochs,
Chap. ii. p. 54^. — Religion. — Government,— Laws,'^PopU'
lation, — Army, — Navy,— ^Revenue.— Political Importattee.
Chap.iii. p. 548. — Manners and Cufioms,— Language, —
Literaturef—'Univerfiti€S»'^itietand Jnvn/i Wajhingtony

Phila^

-•;ntt.iS';/v.

CONTENTS.

SIS

• P«/tf-

ZettU'

\tion.—-'

\.Laiu'''
lanadaf

\y OhiOy

Ape
■OrU

-PopU"

Xrtatwe.

ingtorty
\Pbila^.

- **

.,;.-; f Thila^elph'iat New Tork, BoJIott^ ^altitnore.'^CharlJfownp
• r \a <. (sfc. — Edific(S,--~ Inland Navigation^'—Manufa^ures,-—*

Commerce.
United States, Chap.iv. p.553.— CA'nw/^.^— S^^«x.— i^'-aw of
the Country. — Soil, — Agriculture, ^ — Rivers; Hud/on,
Delaware, Pafomai, — Lahei,^-^ Mountains,^- Forejls and
... Swamps. — Botany. — Zoology, — Mineralogy. •^^ Mineral

Waters. — NaturtU Curiojities, — IJlands.
Spanish Dominions in North America, Chap.i. p.551.—
Boundaries a nd Diviftons. — Original Population, -^Hi/lo^
rical Epochs ,• of Mexico^ of Cal^ornia, ^ Louiftana, efthe
Fhridas. — Antiquities.
■■'■' •, Chap. ii. p« 5 7 *• — Religion. — Government. — Population,-'^
Army, Revenue, tsfc. — Political Importance,
Qlaz'p.\\\,^.^Zo.—~Manners and Cujlonu. •— Language.— »
Cities; Mexico, Guatirnala, Acapulco, ^c.-^Edifces.--*
ManufaElures and Commerce,
Chap. iv. ^.612*— Climate and Seafons.—-Face of the Country,
'—Rivers; Rio Bravo, Guadalapcara. — Lakes. — Mouji-^
tains.-^Botany.--<Zoology.— 'Mineralogy. -—Mineral Waters
and Natural Curiofities.
British Possessions in North America, p.()4i. — Diviftons.—
Canada; Extent, Religion, Government, Population, Man^
ners, ts^c. Quebec, Montreal, Climate, Face of the Country,
^ Falls of Niagara.— 'New Brun/wick. — Nova Scotia..-^

Cape Breton. — Newfoundland.— Bermudas.
Native Tribes, p.648. — Greenland.— Labrador. — Hud/on*s Bay.
— Central Parts; Mr. Hearne*s Difcoveries, Mr. Macken.^
zie^s.^^W^ern Coaft,'— Botany of Canada and the North,
"West Indies, p.658. — Cuba. — St. Domingo, — Jamaica. — Porto
Rico. — Caribbee IJlands.-f- Bahamas. — Botany of the Weft
Indies.
South America, ^.66y,— Extent. — Original Population.— Pro~
greffive Geography. — Religion. — Climate and Seafons. —
Lakes.'— Rivers; Maramn, Rio de la Plata, Orinoco.—
— Mountains; Andes. . ,

Spanish Dominions, p. 674. — Extent and Boundaries,— Govern-'
ment. — Populatian. — Manners and Cufloms. — Language,
■ — Cities; Lima, Buenos Ayres, Carlhagena, tsfc.-^Cam-.

^^> merce. — Zoology. — Botany. — Mineralogy; Silver, Met-.,

cury, Platina, (ffc. — Natural Curiofities.
Portuguese Dominions, p. 735* — Brazil, — Rio Janeiro.— Dia-^

monds.— Botany.
French Dominions, p. 737.

DtJTCH Dominions, p. 738. — Guiana.— -Paramaribo,'— Demarara,
Natives Tribes, p. 739.

Islands, p. 741. — Juan Fernandes, — Chiloe, — Falkland IJles, —
Afcenhn I/le*

II AFRICA,

.««

XX-

CONTENTS.

AFRICA , p. 742. —-Extent. — Orighial Populat'iott. — . Progrejftve
Geography. — Religion. — Rivers; Ni/e, Nigir^- Seriegal.-—
Mountains; Atlas, Egyptian Mount ainst Abyffmian Moun-
tains. ^—Def arts.'

Abyssinia, p. 748. — Eatent. — Original Population. — Progreffive
Geography. — Religion. — Manners and Cujioms.—Citels ;
Gondar, Axum. — Climate and Sea/ons, — Rivers. — Lakes
of Dewhea and Zaivja. — Mountains, — Botany. — Zoology
and Mineralogy. J

Egypt, p. 752. — Extent. — Religion. — Manners and Cujloms.—^
Cities ; CairOi Alexandrioy i!fc. — Cotnmerce. — Climate. —
Face of the Country. — Rivers.-— Lakes ; Alenzaleh, Berelos,

•»-»^« oj" Natron f isfc. — Mountains. — Botany. — Zoology. —

Ethiopia or Nubia.

Northern States, p. ']^'j.— -'Tripoli. — Tunis.— -Algier. — Morocco.
— Botany.

"Western Coast, p. 761. — Jalofst Foulahs, ^c. — Slave Coajl ;
Be7iin. — Loango. — Congo. — Botany.

Cape of Good Hope, p. 763. — Extent and Population. — General
Defer ipt ion. — Botany^ isfr.

Eastern Coast, p. 765.' — Natal. — Delagoa. — Mocaranga.—^
Mozumbiquc. — Zanguebar. — Adel.

Madagascar, p. 767. — Extent. — Natural ProduHions. — Inhabi-
tants, Manners and Ciijloms. — Botany.

Smaller African Islands, p. 7<59. — Pemba. — Comoro. — Mauri-
tius. — Bourdour. — Kergnelen^s Land. — St. Helena

Afcenftou. — Zt. Thomas. — Cape Verd JJJes. — Canaries,
Madeira, Azores.

Discoveries and Conjectures concerning the central
Parts ov Ai rjca, p. 773. — Travels of Park and Broicne^
Ptclemfs Mapy l^c, — Olfiaclcs to JXf cover y.

.-l-tci

•/

»%.^

•v^

•M^

'%4

■^

'J:..

K'>

INTRO.

ogrejjlve
legal.—
'■ Moutt'

^grejlve
'Citelsi
-Lakes

Zoology

. .,..■■♦

'omt,—'
nate.—^
3erelos, .

'gy- ~

^orocco.
Coajl;
^eneral

la.

nhabi-

lauri' ^i.
a. —
aricsy

PR AT.

n^r^^i00^9ff^'

10-

ffi~<*J

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iNf iiGDtJcf ic)iT

MAtHEMAtldAL AND CRITIGAIi dEOGRAMt*

tRAilBtATED FROM THE FRENCH Off

fe.F.LACROiXi •

Gfe66RAPliY is diyi<ied into two diftinft branches? ope of ttneTe
may be called narfative. geography, the knowledge of which is inoft
generally diffuJfedi Like the relations of travellers, it mikes lis acquainted
ixrith the varioas countries of the earth, their moi^ remarkable phyucal and
topographical birtumftances^ their form of governinent* their political
divifion, their commerce^ the mdnoers of their inhabitants, and lailly the
principal events of their hiHory.

'I'hefe defcriptions, by the aid of language idon6, inttit be neceJlat^r
fomewhat impeirfed. and vague^ on w£ch account it has been found
requifite to add outlines or maps of the countries, not only with a vkvv
of rendering the relative pofitions of the different places apparent to the
eye, but alfo to give that degree of precifion which is fo often, requirea
in navigation, in the inilitary art^ in the planning of roads and canals,
and many other important obje£ls of civilized fociety. It is the art of
projecting thefe maps which forms the fecond branch, not lefs ufeful
than the jpreceding one, but lefs generally underlldod ^ and althqiigh
the principles on which their ConitruAion depends* are derived from
aftronomy and geometry, it is often but imperie£lly compreheade4»
even by thofe already converfant with thefe fcieniies*

l^or as it often occurs that there are not fiifficient diita to admit of th«
application of mathematical principles to iili up t^e details of a map )
we are obliged to have t«courte for this purpole, to the relation 6f the
traveller and the narrative of the hiftorian.

It is not furprifinsr then, that an art which rather feenis to depend on
the intelligence and flcill of the individual than on any general rules,
fliould have been deemed incapable of analyfil } And it has therefore been
negleded in general plans of indruAlon.

It is, however, not impoilibte to obtain pofiefllon of the cliie Which
has guided the geographers of the laft and the prefent century in their
tefearches, and thus to cortiplete our geographical treatifes, by fub-
joining to them the eletnents of the mathematical and critical part of this
icience, the principal objeA of which is the con{tru6tion of charts*
And this will oe found of great importance ; for how can we make ufe
of thefe defigns with any certainty, or appreciate their corredtnefs,
nvhen we are totally ignorant of the means by which they have been
compofed^ ^

Tnefe motives have induced me to. prefent to the reader a (hort eflay
on thi« fubje^t, and to depart from the ufuol plan of introduAions pr«*

1^ fixU

INTRODUCTION.

fixed to geographical treatifes, which are only the elements of aftrb-
nomy more or lefs abridged. I fliall begin like the authors of thefe
introduftions by a fhort expofition of the firft principles of aftronomy*
but I fhall confine myfelf to thofe which are abfolutely neceffary to give
a clear conception how the pofiiion of different places on the furface of
the earth may be detenninud by obfeivations of the celeitial bodies.

"»*

SEvlT.'I. jijlronomlcal Elements necejfary for the Stiuly of Geography .

I. It muft have been remarked by every one who has been placed
in a lituation commanding an uninterrupted view, that the heavens and
earth jippear to terminate in a circle of contact, and this circle has been
called the horizon.

It is fcarcely poffible to obferve the form of the terrcltrial furface in-
clofed within the circle, bccaufe it is ahnoil always broken by irregu-
larities which alter its original figure ; but if we (land on the fea fhore,
we muft obferve immediately, that however uniform this furface may
appear, it is not perfectly flat ; for when a veflel approaclies the fliore,
it IS the upper part of her mafts that is firll perceptible ; and the beft
telefcopes would Sfford us no afliftance in rendering the lower part
vifible. As it advances towaj-ds the fliore we behold it difens^age itfelf
from the horizon, and apparently rife out of the fea. It mail then be
the convexity of the fea that intercepts the lower part of the vtlfel from
our view ; this is reprefented in fig. i.

The moment we remark that the furface of the fea is convex, we may
eafily conceuve that the earth participates in the form, fetting afide the
eonnderation of its irregularities ; and we are induced to confider the
whole as fpheric^, becaufe the geometrical laws of this curve are
more fimple than thofe of any others and the form more pleafing to the
imagination.

Other phenomena which we fhall defcrihe hc.e fterhavc flrengthcned
this conjeflure, which has been fince verified by voyages round the
world. And the laft aftronomical difcoveries, by enabling us to meafure
theearth with great precifion, have proved, that its form approaches fo
nearly to that of a fphere, that in moil cafes the difference may be neg-
leAea without any ienfible error.

.The mountains and vallies fcattered over the furface of the earthy
when compared to its mafs, do not alter its figure more than the rough-
nefs perceptible on the rind of the finell orange. This affertion will <
be demonnrated hereafter by calculation.

2. The fpherical form of the earth foon conduAs us to the explana-
tion of the moll apparent motions of the celeftial bodies.

The fun at the moment of his rifing emerges partially from the hori-
zon ; he then feems to defcribe a portion of a circle in the heavens, and
finks below the oppofite part of the horizon when he fets ; he then re-
appears the next day, at nearly the fame point where he rofe on th^'
preceding one ; we may therefore eafily conceive that he only difappears
becaufe he paffes below the horizon, to complete his courte round the
earth.

If, during the courfe of a fine night, we obferve with attention the
motions of the ftars, we perceive that Tome firll appear in that part of
the heavens where the fun rifes, and difappear in the part where he fets %
and in our climate during a long winter's night, we may diftinguifh
feme which defcribe more than a femiciicle, round another which i«

"6 "^ remarkable

\i^

INTRODUCTION.

rface

cplana*

>pears
id the J.

\n thff
jrt of
fets;f
JiguiHi
Ech i<
(kable

Itmarkable from Us apparent immobility ; fome migbf ren be fee "o
complete the circle, if the light of the fun by eflFaciiig heir luftre id
not caule them to difappear.

As all the ftars appear to revolve in the fame direftion round one
point, we are immediately led to confider this point as the centre of a
motion common to all the ccleftial bodies, and in which the fun himfelf
partakes, fince he revolves in the fame direftion as the ftars. This was
for a long time the opinion of aftronomers ; they fuppofed the fun and
ftars attached to a folid vault which carried them with it in its revolu*
tion round the earth, in the fpace of twenty-four hours. When it was
dilicovered that all the cekftial bodies were not at the fame diftance from
the earth, and tl.at many of them approached and receded fucceflively
at certain periods, it became requifite to reform the preceding conjec-
ture, and at length they began to imagine that the general motion of
the ftfirs might be only an appearance produced by the real motion of
the earth in a contrary diredlioii, round a diameter or axis which if pro-
longed would pafs through that ftar wh'ch appeared ftationary.

In faft, when we are in a boat pafling iinilormly, and no abrupt mo-
tion reminds us that we are changing our fituation, it is the objects on
the bank that appear to mov? in a contrary diretrtion. We may, there-
fore, ealily attribute the motion which we obferve in the fun and ftars
to the earth, and this explanation, which its fimplicily alone renders'
extremely probable, is confirmed by the exaft analyfis of the phe-
nomena, and by the coincidence of the refults we obtain from it with*
obfervation.

t. The point round which the heavenly bodies appear to move, i*
called the celejiial pole s the ftar which indicates it, and which is very
near it, is the polar Jlar ; the axis of the earth being direfted to this
point, marks on the furface of our globe two oppofite points, which
are the terrejlrial poles ,• that which correfponds to the polar ftar is
called the north or arSicpoht and the oppofite one \.\\s/outh or antardic
pole.

That point of the horizon which is below the north pole is called tie
north, the oppofite fide is thefou(h.

If we fuppofe a circle to pafs through thefe two points the plane of
which fliall be perpendicular to the horizon, it will neceiferily paf»
through the two poles ; this circle is called by aftronomers the mfridian g
it divides the celellial hemifphere abo\re the horizon into two equal parts^
fo that the ftars which are obfervcd on this circle are in the middle of
their apparent courfe, and it is the tranfit of ths fun over this circle
tliat marks the moment of noon.

The line whicli joins the north and fouth points of the horizon is
called the meridian line ; if we draw a litie perpendicular to it, and fup-
pofe it prolonged on both fides till it meets the horizon, it marks on
this circle two oppofite points, which are called the ett/i and we/l, OP
thepoints of rylng ^ndjettifij.

Tliefe latter denominations are intended to fignify that one of thefc
points is on the fide where the heavenly bodies appear to begin their
daily courfe or ri/e, and that the other is on the fide where they feem
to pafs below the fame circle, or to fet, and that their apparent diurnal
motion is direfted from eaft to weft.

It is proper to remark that when we look towards the foutb> th^
weft is on our right and the eaft on tmr left ; and if we mark on a ho-
rizontal plane two points in the diredion of the polar ftar, they will

b a d«terinioe

MHKi

INTRODUCTIOI^.

dcterisiino a line which will differ but little from the meridian line, t
fliall give hereafter the meana of tracing it corrcAly.

4. ^o comprehend with precifion the remarks contained in the pre',
ceding fedions, it is neceffary to have recourfe to a figure.

The circle M£NO, fig. ^. reprefeuts the horizon, in the centre of
which, the oblerver A is placed j £CDt B'C'D* are portions of the
circle which the heavenly bodies fcem to defcribe round the celeftial
pole. Thole whole diftance from the pole is lefs than the arc PNi
vrhich marks the elevation of this point above the horizon, appear to
defcribe entire circles, fuch as GHIK; N is the north point of the
horizon, M the fouth ; and confcquently MN is the meridian line.
The femicircle MZNf the plane of which is fuppofed to be perpen-
dicular to the horizon AIENOt and which pafles through the points
ilf A^ is the cekilial meridian, which divides the arcs BCD, B'C'D'
into two equal parts, at the points C C\

The point £ is the eaft point of the horizon, and the point 6 the
weft ; the heavenly bodies ieem to move from £ towards 0,'and to paft
in the middle of their courfe through fome point of the circle MZN.

$. Thefe appearances are now to be explained, and to comprehend
the fubje£t properly the reader ihould imagine himfelf removed from
the earth, and confider it only as a globe placed in the midft of fpace
fuppofed to be indefinitely extended in every dire£lion.

Figures, reprefents the terreftrial globe infulated ; the point ^ il
the fuppofed place of the obferver, £MON his horizon, and the
flraight line PP' defignates the axis round which the earth performs its,
motion of rotation from weft to eaft.

It is evident that the horizon of the obferver turning with him during
the rotation of the globe advances succeifively towards the ftars fituated
in the direction of its motion, which confequeutly feem to be moving in
an pppofite direction to approach him.

The plane MZN of the meridian line NM perpendicular to the hori-
zontal plane ENOM turns alfo with this latter, and direfls itfelf fuc-^
ceflively towards the fame ftars which are then in the middle of the
courfe which they feem to defcribe above the horizon.

When the weftern edge of the horizon touches a ftar it appears to
let, and ceafes to be vifible till the motion of the earth brings the eaftern
edge of the horizon to it ; becaufe during this interval the vifual ray*
which touch the earth pafs above the ftar.

This^explanation then applies to the phenomena which take place, ia
the moft corre£t and fimple manner, and accounts perfe6tly for the dailf
appearance and difappearance of the celeftial bodies, by which circiim*
ftance the fun produces the alteration of day and night.

6. A remarK very important to be made is, that all the motions allud-.
cd to in the preceding fedions are onl^ meafured by their angles, without
any confideration of their abfolute diftanceSf

In fa(£t when a ftar. Ft after having appeared in the direftion of the
vifual ray ^F in the plane of the horizon, is obferved in the diredion
of the ray ^F', in the plane of the meridian, the fpedator has only
obferved the angular fpace contained between the two ftraight lines jIJF
and jIF'i an^ wiiich appears to include an arc of a circle in the heavens*
whofe radiua it is impoflible to eftimate.

It follows from this remark, that we mayi when we are confiderine
t\\t ftars, fubftitutc inftead of the tangent plane ^ATOilf a parrild
plane pafling through the centre of the earth j for when a ftar placed

INTRODUCTION. ▼

«t G would appear in that horizon which is a tangent to the point yf,
an obferver placed at the centre of the earth, ieeing the fame ftar on
the line C G, would behold it elevated only "by the angle € G«, which
is fo much the fmailer as the point G is farther remoytja* as we fee by
the point G. Now the diitance of the cele.i^ial bodies ifi fo great that
this angle is infenfible with regard to snoft of ^thein, and very fmall for
the others.

After what has been faid^ we may be allowed to fubftitute lig 4,.
inilead of the preceding; but let the plane £ A^ il/ pafling through
the centre of the earth parallel to the plane which reaches it at w^, or
which is the fame thing, perpendicular to the radius C/i drawn front
this point to the centre ot the earth, be taken for the horizontal p]ane»
relatively to the ftars. Snppofe the plane MZN of the meridian to be
prolonged indeBnitely round £7, the centre of the earth, through which
It mull pafs, fince it is drawn through the axis PP', It marks then on
the terreftrial furface a circle PAP* pafling through the poles, which
is called the meridian of the point A, and of al) the points fituatcd on
its circumference. The horizon E NO Mi» called the rational Aorixon,
to diftinguilh it from that which is a tangent to the furface of the earth,
and is called the /ettfilie hori%on.

The point Z, which is the point of the heavens perpendicularly over

the head of the obferver is called the %enithy and from the fphericity of

■ the earth the line CZ prolonged downwards indicates another point Z'

Vhich is called the nadtrt it is oppofitc to the Hrll, and is the zenith of

(the place A'^ which is diametrically oppofitc to A*

The poiition of the right line ZA' which is called the vertical, is ii)*
dicated on the earth by the direction of the fall of heavy bodies* as
that of the horizontal plane is by the furface of a ilagnant fluid of
fmall extient, to which the vertical or line marked by a plumb-line, is
perpendicular.

As the action of gravity tends every where towards the interior of the
earth, it afts at A' according to the dire^ion Z' A' oppolite to ZA ;
)>odie8 at this place fall therefore to the furface of the earth on which
men are retained by their weight ; thofe who arc at A' having their
feet oppofite to thofe at /f , are the antipodes of the latter^

7. Ihe at,tentive obfervation ,of theceleftial bodies foon caufed them
to be diftinguifhed in,to two j:lafles, one of which always preferve the
fame dillance and arrangement among themfelves, and only feem to be
affeAed by the apparent motion which refults from the rotation of the
earth on its axis; the others have a motion of their own, relatively both
to each other and to the firft -mentioned clafs. Thcfe are QT^tkjixed
ftars, or fimply ftars ; the others are fubdivided into different cta/fes,
namely, //tfitf/i, fubje& to motion^ the periods of wtiich are known,
and eometst the times of the appearance and diifi^ppearance of which
vary. Thefe are generally envetope,d in a paie and diffufed light, which
fometime« furrounds them in the form of f croM^n, and Cbnvetimes followa
them in a long train of light.

The obfervation of the fixed ft '.rs is one of the moft iimple means of
knowing (he relative pofition of places fituatted on the fame meridian,
and fulty confirms what 'was advanced in the fccond fe£lio{i concerning
the fpherical form of the earth.

8. After the dej^nition that has been given of the horizon, it may be

eafily comprehended that it (hould chapge its pofition relatively to the

ftars, when the obferver changes his place. If he moves, for example,

fjova A to jV fig* 5. going diredlly north 9r fouth, following the dircc*

* ■ b 3 tiui^

•1

INTRODUCTION.

l: '

tion of the meridian, the horizontal viFual ray wliich was NM will be-
come N'M', fo that a ftar E pUced o;i the prolong itiou of this ray,
will be elevated above the horizontal ray N' M to A' by the angle
£CM't equal to that formed by the radii CA and C'A' drawn to the
centre of the earth.

In fad the angles yiCM and J' CM being right angles (feftlon 6.)»
if we fubtraft the common angle MCA\ the remainder MCM' and
^'C^ will be equal.

It wns by this means that Poflidonius having remarked that a very
brilliant ftar, known by the name of Canopus, appeared in the horizou
at Rhodes, and was elevated above it by a 48lh part of the circle, or
7 1 at Alexandria in Egypt, concluded that Rhodes was feparated from
Alexandria by a 4yta part of tl\e circle, in the diredion of the
meridian.

The Greek philofopher alfo made this important dedudion from the
fame obfervation ; that the diftaiice from Alexandria to Rhodes being
known in linear meafure, and the proportion that the arc of the meridiaj\
included between thefe two cities bore to the whole circumfeicnce, the
length of the circumference of the earth expreffed alfo in linear meafure
might be known. . From the length of the voyage, and the fpace that
a velTel could pafa over in a day, the diftance between Alexandria and
Rhodes was eftimated at 3,750 ftadia, this diftance repeated 48 times
produced 180,000 ftadia for the circumference of the earth.

The accuracy of this refult cannot be afcertained, becaufe the value
of the ftadium in- which it is expreffed is unknown, and bcfides it '\%
founded on rather vague eftimations ; but the principle is the fame on
which the moft exad determinations of the prcfent day are founded.

It is always required to find what is the proportion between the arc
jtl^f of the meridian paffing through the two points of obfervatioti,
and the whole circumference ; the linear diftance between the two placei
is afterwards meafured.

9. By this* obfervation we arc enabled to compare a place y/ with
another place ji', but to determine abfolutely the pofttion of thefe pointS|
it is neceffary to alTume a fixed term of comparifon.

For this purpofo we fuppofe a plane to pafa through the centre of
the 'earth perpendicular to its axis of rotation, which marks on its cir^
cumfcrence a circle dEF^ fig. 6, of which all the points are at an equal
diftance from the poles Pand P', and which is called the equator. To
a fpedator placed on this circle the two poles are in the horizon, but as
lie recedes from it to approach one of the poles, this one becomes ele-
vated while the other is dcprclfed. Thus at A fig. 5 . the pole P
appears elevated above the horizon, by the angular quantity PCNt and
at y/ the angle i* augmented by NCN' and becomes PCN.

The oppufite pole P' is dt-proffud on tlic contrary below the horizoa
by the angle MCM' equal to NCN\ the angles being vertical.

The angle which meafures tlie elcvati«)n of the pole above the hori-
zon is equal to that which meafures the angular diftance of a place
from the equator, eftimated in the diredion of the meridian.

To afcertain this, il is fufBcient to obferve that the angles ylCN and
GCPt fig. 6, being right angles, if we fubtrad the common angle
jlCP, the remainders ACG and NCP will be equal. It may be feen
alfo by the fame iigure tlvat MCGt the height at which the equator
«pp«'ar3 above the horizon, is the complement of the angle jfCG.

As foon then as the height of the pole above tlic horizon can be de-
termined for any placci the angular diftance of this place from the

equator

INTRODUCTION.

equator is known^ or the number of parts of the meridian intercepted
between this place and the horizon.

lO. The circumpolar ftars, which never fet in thofe places where
one of the poles is elevated above the horizon, determine this im-
tnediately.

For, fince they appear to defcribe circles round the celeftial pole,
they are equally diftant from it in every direAion, and as they pafs twice
over the meridian during the diurnal revolution of the earth, namely,
once above the pole and once below it, if we mi-ature their angular
elevation in each of thefe pofitious, and take the mean of thefe two
refuUs, we Hiall obtain the elevation of the pole.

This is /hewn in fig. 7 ; vvheji the ftar partes the meridian above the
pole, its angular elevation above the horizon is EON ; when it is at E'
below the pole its angular elevation is E'ON. The angles EOP and
E'OP Being equal, the angle PON is the mean between EON and
E'ON, and is equal, confequently, to half their fum. Moreover, if we
take half the difference EOE' of the angles EON and E'ON raeafured
between the ftar and the horizon, we fhall obtain the angle EOP^ which
will give the angular diftance between the obferved ftar and the celef-
tial pole. '

Thus by meafuring, for example, at Paris, during a long winter's
night, the two meridian heights of the polar ftar, we find *,

When it pafles above the pole - - 50®
When it pafles below the pole - "47

1 f nearly

Their fum being
The half

97 4a ;t

48 51 • f».

will be the height of the pole above the horizon of Paris, or the dif-
tance of this City from the equator.

If, on the contrary, we fubtra6^ 47® 5' from ^6^ 37' we fhall find
for their difference 3" 32' of which the half i" 46' will give the dif-
tance of the polar ftar from the pole, which, we find, does not exaflly
occupy this point, but is only very near to it.

II. The knowledge of the diftance of a place on the* earth from the
equator, is not fulRcient to determine the pofition of tho place, becaufe'
the fame diftance will agree with all the points 'fituated on tlie inter«
fedtion of the fphere and a plane parallel to the equator, which irtter-
fcAion gives a circle parallel to the equator, but of which the radhit
is fmaller, and which for this reafon is called a le/fer circle. All the
points of this circle can only be diftingnifhtd by their meridians, which
are different for each of them, and the obfervation of the celeftial
motions aft'ords the means of afcertaining them.

The planes of the different meridians Pj1P\ PLP\ PMP\ &c.
fig. 8, ail tnterfe^ each other in the axis PP\ and tumii.g upon this
line correfpond fucceffivcly to the fame ftar, and between the paffage
of the fame ftar over aivy two meridians, a period of time elapfes which
is to the whole time of rotation as the angle made 1)^ thefe meridians

' • Convinced that »he defcrlption of 11ftronomic.1I lnftnithenf< it lUtcrty !nra|HiMe of
Cflti'i^ying any idea topeii'unt who have iiwer Iceii ihrm, I have tliuup.ht it udvilibU not
to introducf any in thii introdu^Uoii. Bcfidrs the form of thefe iitftrumenti, the obje<i
(if which ii th« mMfurcmcat of angles, is To vatinUe that it would ie<)uir« a very prolix
dct.iil t» point out the manner of employing all the different knids now in ufe. More-
aver, it it known by the element!: of geometry, that an^cs are mealiired on the atcs of
circMs, and that two nitc« moveable round a joint arc luiriLicnt to atbortain the dtre<^lion
of the linea wliich cumpofr ihem. ,

b 4 , • b

«n?

INTRODUqTION.

is to two right angles ; fo that if the firft interval can be meafure^
to compare it with the fecond, we may deduce the angle whiph %\i^
two meridians in cjueftiqn make with each other.

This could be done if we could indicate by a iignal vifible at the
fame time to the places under the two meridians the moment when a
fiar appears on one of the meridians ; becaufe this inftant being marked,
K well regulated watch would give the time which elapfeti between this
tranfit and that of (he fame ftar over the other meridian.

If, for example, two obfervers, one at Paris, the other at Dreux,
Iiaving agreed to determine on the fame day the traniit of the fame
ilar over the meridian of the city they inhabit, and that a fignal giveq
at the moment when the Itar pa0es the meridian of Paris, coula be
▼ifible at Dreiix, about four minutes would elapfe before the itar.
would pafa the meridian of Dreux ; this interval being nearly the 36qtH
part of the diurnal revolution of the earth, it follows that the plane of
the meridian which paffes over Dreux, makes with that of the meridiat^
which paifes over Paris, an angle which is the 360th part of four
right anorles, or the mealure of which is a degree.

12. Knowing by this means the angle which the meridian PLP'
pafling through the place Ly makes with the meridian PAP' pafling
through a given place y#', the place L will be perfedly determined, if
«re have, befides, its diftance from the equator, EF(.iy finCe it is in
the inte^iieiE^ion of the parallel LM^ drawn at this diilance, with the
femicircle PLP*.

The diftance GL of a place from the equator reckoned on the
nirridian is called its latitude f it is northern when the place is between
the pule of this denomination and the equator ; and is fouthern whei^
in the oppof^te hemifphcre.

t The angle of the meridians PAP' and PLP't meafured by the arcs
JSG or HL included on the equator, as on the parallel, is the difference
in longitude of the places A and Z., and is called the longitude of the
place Lt when the fame circle PAP' is the principal meridian, w^ich i^
snade to pafs through a pla^e aiTumed arbitrarily.

Tiie preceding method pointed out for its determination is only
pradicable in general by taking a celeftial phenomenon for the fignal }
pecaufe, for a iignal t» be perceptible in two places at the fame time
it ikottld be fo much the more elevated, in proportion as the places
art liither afiinder. As the phenomena employed for this purpofe
rcfult from the motions peculiar to the planets, I (hall give u>me
account of thefe motions.

13. BcHdei the diurnal motion which the fun has in common with
the nars during the courfe of the year, he feems to advance alternrtelv
towards one or other of the poles ; moreover, if we compare him with
%\\t ftars, by obfcrving one which fets a little time after him, we fin^
that thp interval between thefe two phenomena diniinifhes every eyening»
and Wf fpon ceufe to perceive the ftar, being effaced by the light of
the fun, which conftquently is aavanced towards thp eaft ; a few days,
afterwards the fame ftar reappears in the eaft a fliort time before fun
rife ; the interval between his rifin^ and that of the ftar augfnent^ every
day, and aft^ i^ period of about 365 days the ftar and the fun are founo
to be in the fande relative pofition in which they were originally ob«
fenred. The fun th) n appears to be influenced by two motions, one
whofe direction is fr()m fouth to north, then from north to fouth» anc^
tke other fram the weft towards the eaft.

^ Thcf^

INTRODUCTION.

Thefe appearances mav be explained with great fimplicity, by
^^tributin? to the fun one inotion alqne, whic;h is 'repeated every year or
ftnHualtyt and which is performed in a plane inclined to the axis of the
farth, fincc he approaches both the poles alternately. But the cir-
fiumftances of the motion pf the other planets do not yield readily to
^ny plauftble explanation, when we cpnfider thefe bodies as moving
round the earth ; whereas by fuppo^ng theqj to move round the fun,
and by attributing alfo to the earth the apparent annual motion of this
body, the combination of thefe two al^folute motioi^s, eives to each of
the pli|nets, as feen from the earth, a relative motion, which agrees
perfedly with all the phenopnena they prefent,, apd is capable of
Explaining them witl) the greateft precifion.

It was by this means that Copernicus reftored to the fyftem of the
world the fimplicity and cor^eftnefs which Jt had entirely loft by the
inuhiplied efforts which the partizans of the theory which fuppofed
the earth immoveable, had made after Ptolemy, to explain how the
planets fhould appear fometinies ftationary, and at others change their
4ire6tipu.

Copernicus fnppnfed then, that at the fame time that the earth
turned on its axis from weft to eaft in the interval of a day, (fedtibn 5)
it w;is carried in fpace from eaft to weft, making an entire revolution
round tiie fun in a plane inclined to the equator, during the interval of
p y<-ir.

\''^e have every day before our eyes a multitude of examples of thefe
two fimultaneous inotions in the fame body.

The top with which dv.ldreq a:rKr\^t: themfelves is one of the moft
familiar ; whik- it turns rapidly upon the iron peg that paffes through
it, and whi^u forms its axis, it aU'o defcribes on the ground various
curves, which depend on the manner in which it was originally pro-
jeded ; a bowJ that has hteti ftrtj»,k in a diredtion not pafling through
its centre, acquires a rotatory niuiion on itfelf, befides the progreflive
inotion which refults fron> the impuUion it received. — Thefe elucida*
tions ought to fufiice to render intelligible what follows concerning the
two motions of the earth.

i^ To conceive how the phenomena of the fun's apparent change
of place are produced by the annual motion of the earth, it is only
requifite to obferve the confequences produced by the parallelifi^ which
|ts axis preferves in all the pontions it fucceflively occupies.

This axis, which is inclined to the plane in which the centre of the
earth moves round th; fun, remaining always parallel to itfelf, prefents
pUernately each of its extremities, or poles, towards the fun. This
may be leen by fig. 9. where the lines PP' parallel to each other
reprefent the axis of the earth, and S the centre of the fun. This
• parallelifm caufes the pole P, which is neareft to the fun when the
jcarth is at Bt to become the moft diftant from it when the earth it
9X D i becaufe, in the Hrft fituation, the inclination of the part BP
pf the tcrreftrial axis is turned within the curve ABCD^ while at the
point D it is on the outiide of it ; there are two intermediate points^
A and C, in which the axis PP' does not incline either towards the
fun or from it ; and the line CSA^ which joins the centres of the fun and
earth in thefe two oppoike pnfitions, is perpendicular to its axis PP*,

In all the other points of its orbit ABCD^ the terreftrial axis muft
neceflarily incline either towards or from the fun ; and as it is thefe
$wo pofitions which produce the (cafuns, I (hall confidcr them fe<i

j;. Figurp

rfMI

» INTRODUCTION. i

■ '5* Figu'^ 10 relates to t}ie cafe in which the pole P is neareil to
the lun.

The diftance from the fun to the earth being very confiderable, in
proportion to the diameter of the latter, his rays may be confidered
as parallel to the line 6'0, 'which joins the centres of thefe two bodies }
we perceive immediately that tdc terreftrial furface is divided at every
inftant into two parts ; that which is towards the fun being enlightened,
while the oppofite fide is in obfcurity. The boundary which fe-
parates thefe two parts is determined by the great circle ILK' di-awn
perpendicular to the line SO; for it is evident that this circle fur-^
rounds that part of the earth wliich is turned towards the fun, and that
the rays of light, fuch as SI, SK, which touch its circumference, arc
only tangent to the furface of the globe ; this circle is called the circle
of illumination.

It follows then that the equator £LF» being a great circle, is
divided equally by the circle of illumination ; every point in the equator
paffes fucceflively through that half of its circumference which is
included in the enlightened part of the earth, and confequently receives
the rays of the fun during half the time of the rotation of the earth.
This is the caufe that to all the places fituated on this circle (the
equator) the days and nights are equal, on which account it is fome-
times called the equinodlial line. The circle of illumination divides
the leffer circles defcribed by the points of the arc P£ more unequally
in proportion as tliey approach the pole ; the enlightened part of thefc
circles is the largoll : to all thefe places therefore the duration of
the day furpaffes that of the night ; and this difference increafes as the
places are lituated nearer the pole, till there is no night to the fpace
mclofed within the circle IK defcribed by the point /, through which
the folar ray pades as a tangent to the earth, and the neareil to the
pole P, becaufc this ciicle lies entirely in the illuminated hemifphere.

This order is totally revcrfed with regard to the other hemifphere
EPF. Beyond the equator ELF, as we approach the pole P\ the
circles parallel to the equator, which are unequally divided by the
circle or illumination ILK', have their greatcft portion in obfcurity ;
the duration of the nights therefore furpaffes that of the days more
and more as we approach the poles, and the region contained in the
circle I'K', defcribed by the point Kt being altogether in the unen-
lightened hemifplierc, has no day.

The radius SO being directed towards the centre of the earth, falls
perpendicularly on its furface, and the point PH turning round the
axis PP\ defcribes a circle JIG, all the points of which pafs in fuc-
ceflion perpendicularly under the fun ; on each iide of this circle, the
folar rays become more and more oblique, and are horizontal on the
circles IK and I'K'i where they are only tangents to the furface of the
earth.

It follows frongi thence, that the fun attains a greater altitude above
the horizon, in proportion as the horizon is nearer to UH,

1 6. In figure 1 1, where the part OP of tlic tcrredrial axis is inclined
in the oppofite diredlion relative to the fun, what we have faid con-
ccrning the hemifphere EPF muft be applied to the hemifphere EP'F,
and vice ver/a. It is in the latter that the days are lonser than the
nights, and the ft:n is vertical over the points of the circM G'H' t ^li6
contrary takes place in the hemifphere EPF*

17. vVlicn the earth is at ylorCt fig. 9, the folar ray fC or Sjfp
diicCtcd towards the centre uf the caith| being perpendicular to the

axil

INTRODUCTION.

axis PP' (feft. 14. )» this axis is in the plane of the circle of illumina*
tion, which then bife^ts not only the equator, but all the circle^
parallel to it, fo that the enlightened portion is equal to that in (hadow.
In this pofition the duration of day and night is equal at every part '
of the terreftrial furface. The points A "and C, and the periods at
which the centre of the earth is in tbefe points, are therefore called
equinoxes.

The time employed by the earth in paffing from the point A to B%
during which the pole P approaches nearer and nearer to the fun, is
tlie allronojnical fpring to the hemifphere EPFt becaufe the plane
of the equator becoming more and more deprcfTed with regard to the
fun, this body appears elevated towards the pole : when arrived at B^
the femi-axis BP of the earth having the greateft poiliblel inclination
towards the fun, he appears at the reaft diftance from the pole P, and
it is at. this point that the fummer of the hemifphere EPF commences.

As the fituation of the axis changes very little for fome days to the
places near the point 5, it has been called the fummer foljiice. This
ieafon lalls till the earth arrives at the fecond equinox C, when the
autumn commences : then the pole P, beinjj the fartheft from the fun,
this body, becoming more and more deprefled, returns into the plane
of the equator. After his paflage through the point C, the femi-
axis CP turning its inclination more and more to the fide oppofite to
the fun, he continues to appear more and more deprefled below the
horizon till the earth reaches /?, the place where the inclination of
the femi-axis DP' is dire£lly oppofite to the fun, which has confe-
quently attained the hmit of its depreflion below the equator. At this
point the winter commences to the hemifphere EPF, and the axis
remaining alfo many days in nearly the fame fituation, the point D
has beet, called the winter /olfi ice.

The duration of this feafon is defined by the time employed by the
earth to return to the point A. During this interval the pole P ap«
proaches the fun, which confequently appears to re-afcend towards the
eq- itor, which it reaches when the earth is at A, when it has ii(fi(hc4
its annual revolution. i /, ,

With regard to the oppofite hemifphere EP'Fy the feafons follow a
/contrary order; the fpring of this hemifphere correfpunding to the
autumn of the other; the fummer to the winter; the autumn to the
fpring ; and the winter to the fummer.

18. In the early ilate of ailronomy, the apparent motion of the fun

was referred to the groupes of fixed liars or condellations which he

feemed to travcrfe fucceflively, the number of which is twelve. Tha

fpace the fun traverfes in a feal'on includes three of them ; their names

and tlie characters employed fometimcs to reprefent them, beginning at

|hat where the fpring equinox takes place, are»

Y Aries b Taurus

® Cancer St Leo

/b5- Libra 111 Scorpio

10'Capricornus .^Aquarius

They pre alfo called the figns of the zoJiaCf becaufe they occupy
that band or »one on which the planets anciently known, which deviate
but little from the ecliptic, were always found ; but the planets recently
difcovercd by MelTieurs Piazzi and Holbers have orbits exceedint^ very
much the limits aifigned to the zodiac^ particularly the one lull diU
^•Qvcrcd.

.Br

n Gemini
fJlVir^o
$ SaffiUarius
KPilcea.

INTRODUCTION.

[

! fi

By the efFeA of a particular but very flow motion of the axis of the
earth, the conftellations no longer correfpond to the fame points of the
terreftrial orbit ; and as, befides, they differ from each other in thejr
extent, the name of Ogns has been given to the twelve divifions of the
circle which meafure the entire revolution of the earth ; each of thefe
(divifions comprehends 30 degrees ; and at prefent the figns of the
3;pdiac are diftinguifhed from the conftellations, this latter denomination
being particularly applied to the groupes of ftars.

By this airangement the fpring equinox correfponds always to the
firft point of the fign aries ; the fummer folftice to the firft point of
cancer; the autumnal equinox to the firft point of libra; apd the win-
ter folftice to the firft point of Capricorn.

19. In appearing ta approach alternately to both poles, the fun
paiTes fwsceifively over the zenith of all the points included within the
, two circles Gff and G'H't fig. 10 and 11, parallel to the equator, and
pver which it is vertical at the fummer and winter folftices.

Thefe limits at which the fun feems to ftop in each hemifphere
are callisd tropics j that which porrefponds to the fummer folftice is the
tropic of Cancer, and the other the tropic of Capricorn.

The circles /A" and /'^, which terminate towards each pole that
part of the earth which the fun enlightens when he is in the oppofite he*
mifphere, are called polar circles, and are diftinguifhed by the name of
the pole to which they belong : tiie one is the arSic polar eircUt and the
other the antarSic polar circle.

The polar circles and the tropics divide the furface of the earth into
five portions, called zones ; thofe which arc included in the polar
^ircles, bemg deprived of the fpn during a great part of the year, and
filways receiving his rays very obliquely, are called /r/giV xones,

Tne zones included in each hemifphere between the polar circles and
the tropics never have the (jun vertical, but receive his rays lefs obliquely
4h>ii the frigid zones, and are called temperate zones.

.I^aftly, the fpace between the tropics, over every point of which
tlie fun is vertical twice a year, and to which the rays are alwayi
left oblique than to any o^her part of the globe, fuffering on this ac«
^ount a confiderable degree of heat, is called the torrid zone.

The conftant prefencc of the fun over this zone, and the force of
llis nys, which tall almoft pei-pendicularly upon it, ought at length to
eominunicate to the earth a heat fufBciently powerful to extend to the
Interior, even as far as the poles, and to produce that uniform tem-
perature which is preferved in caves and deep mines, notwithftanding the
alterations of heat and cold which ^take place on the furface of the

globe, whether by the greater or Icfs degree of obliquity in the rays of
ie fun at the different feafons of the year, or by the eff^e6t oi me-
teorological phenomena.

30. The ancient geographers eftabliihed a divifion of the earth into
tlimatesf founded on the comparative duration of the day and night at
the fummer folftice. The firft climate commenced at the equator,
where the days, equal to the nights, are each 12 hours, and terminated
at tliat parallel of latitude on which the longeft day is i a hours ^p
minutes ; the fecond clinriate terminates at the parallel, on which the
longeft day is 13 hours, and fo in fucceffion fpr every half hour of
increafe in the duration of the fulftitial day, as far as the polar circle,
where the day contains 24 hours. After this boundary the difference
of plimate was reckoned by months, becaufe each pole paffcs the whole

interval

tNTRODtJCTlbN.

aciii

interval between the equinoxes, or fix months in the fun*ff light, and
fix months in darknefs ; and the intermediate points arje enlightened for
a longer or fliorter time, according to the diftance, they are from the
pole. The firft climate, reckoned, by months, terminates at the parallel
of latitude placed at the polar circle, all the points of ^hich arc expofed
to the fun for a month, and thus on to the pole, where day lafts fix
months of the year, and night the other {ix months. "

21. The different diftribution of the feafons in the northern and
fouthern hemifplieres, was thtf caufe of t'^e inhabitants of the earth
being ranked under denominations which a? > na longer ih ufe, but which'
ought to be known, becaufe they are met with fometinAes in rather an-
cient authors.

The people who are fituated, one to the fouth and the 6ther to
the north of the equator, but under the fame meridian and the fame"*
latitude in each hemil'phere, are Antacians ; they reckon the fame hour*'
at the'fame moment, but are in oppofite feafons.

I'hofe who are on the fame fide of the equator, but und.*r opjpofite
meridians, are Periacians ; they reckon onpofite hours a^ the ikfne
inftant, it being midnight with one when trie others are at noon, and
vicr verfat but being both in the fame hemifphere they have the fame
feafons.

The ancient geographers have alfo eftablifiied a divifion of the in-
liabitants of the earth from the fituation of their (hadnws. They called
tteterofctansy thofe who are placed in the temperate zone> becaufe their
ihadow is always turned towards the pole. ^

Perifclanti thofe who, inhabiting the frigid zones, and enjoying the
prefence of the fun during one period of the year for 24 hours, behold
this body revolve round their horizon, and projed their ihadow in every
dire£iion.

Amphiifeians m Af clans ^ the inhabitants of the torrid zone, who(b
Ihadowt at noon are alternately projefled towards either pole.

By thus turning their attention to confider locrj phenomena, they
eftabliih three fituations of thefpherct that is to fay of that aflemblage
of Tmrious circles of which I have fpoken, and to which we refer the
pofitionsof the ftars.

They faid that to the inhabitants df the eauator the pofition of thefe
circles was that of a right fpherct becaufe the plane of the circle theu
pafling through the zenith is perpendicular to the horizon, and that
confequently the ftars, which in their diirnal motion feemed to defcribe
circles parallel to the equator, appear to rife anddefcend perpendicularly
to the horizon.

To the inhabitants from the equator to the poles, as the circle cuts
the horizon obliquely* the fphere is oblique, becaufe the diurna) motion
of the ftars is inclined to the horizon. Finally, at both poles the ho-
rizon is the equator itfelf ; and the ftars feem to move parallel to this
circle, the iahabitants, therefore, of thefe two points, have the fphert
faraltel.

a«. The extent of the zones and climates is determined by the in-
clination of the axis of the earth to the plane of the ecliptic ; and this
inclination is difcovered by obferving at the fame place^the greateft and
leaft altitudes of the fun, when it pafles the meridian at the iummer and
winter folftice.

For fincc it deviates equally on each fide the equator, at both thefe
periods the points of the equator ought to pafs the meridian at the
mean altitude between the two extreme altitudei of the fun, and their

differcoot

itit

INTRODUCTION.

difference is double the angular diflance by which the fun is e!evatcd[
and depreffed above and below the equator ; we determine, therefore,
at the fame time this quantity and the pofition of the ^qwator to the
horizon, which gives the latitude of the place of obfervation.

At Paris, for example, the altitude of the fun above the horizon
is 64° 38' at the fummer folftice, and only 17° 42' at the winter
folftice.

64° 38'
17 42

The fum of thefe altitudes is
The half

82 20
41 10

gives the altitude of the equator above the horizon at Paris, and takingf,
the complement to 90^ we find that the dittance from the equator to
the zenith or the latitude of Paris is 48° ^o'. Subtracting one from
the other.

The altitudes

We find the difference
And the half

640 38'

17 4I

46
23

56
28

gives the arc by which the fun deviates from the equator towards cither
pole.

This arc, which meafures the angle FOH, fig. lO, meafures alfo that
which the plane of the equator and ecliptic make with each other, or
the ohltquity of the ecliptic with regard to the equator.
. The complement of the angle FOH is the angle POH which mea-^
fures the inclination of the terreft-ial axis OP on ihe plane of the
ecliptic reprcfented by the hne St and taking 23° 28' iVora 90° we
get 66" 32 .

It is to be remarked alfo that the arc IP which meafures the dif-
tance of the polar circle IK from the pole P, being the complement of
the arc PH, and confequently equal to FH' is 23 28' ; the com-
plemetkt 66° 3«' of this arc expreffes the value of the arc /£, or of
the latitude of all the points of the polar circle.

The latitude of the tropics GH and C H' is equal to tlxe arc EG,
and confequently is 23^28'.

23. We may deduce from thefe refults the extent of the different
tones. The frigid zones include 23° 28' of latitude on each fide the
pole. The temperate zones, or the fpace between the polar circle and
the tropic, or between 66° ?2' and 23" 28' of latitude extend 43° 4' ;
finally the torrid zone terminated by the tropics at 23** 28' diftance oa
each fide the equator, includes 46** ^6' of latitude. From thefe data«
by the afliftance of elementary geometry, the fuperficies of thefe
zones may eafily be calculated, and it is found that 83, 519, 796, re-
prefent refpedlively the frigid zone, the temperate zone, and the torrid
zone, or taking the whole area of the globe as unity.

The frigid zones occupy
The temperate zones
The tornd zone

Thefe dimenfions are not condant, for obfervation and the calcu-
lation of the caufes which produce the planetary motions, have proved
that the in«liuation of the terreftrial equator relatively to the ecliptic

diminifliet

T'On )

198
TutW

INTRODUCTION.

dimiiuflies every century by 50", till it arrives at a term which is not yet
exaftly afcertained, after vvliich it will begin to increafe.

24. It is by the apparent motion of the fun that time has been regu>
lated.

The duration of the qftronomical day is marked by the period that
elapfes between two confecutive tranfits of the fun over the meridian of
the fame place : it is divided into 24 hours ; ihe'tropical year is the period
between the paffage of the fun through one of the equinoftial points
and its return to the fame point ; it includes 365 days 5 hours, 48' 48".

As the pofition of the equinoxes on the plane of the ecliptic depends
on the iituation of the terreltrial axis, it changes relatively to the ttars
in confcquence of a flight motion of this axis, fo that the equino£tial
points retrogade about 50" a year, with reference to the liars which
conftantly appear to advance this quantity in the direftion of the
ecliptic, and this circumftance prolongs a little the annual revolution of
the earth, when compared with the liars ; it is then called the Jidereal
yeart and its duration is 365 days 6 hours, 9' 12".

The revolution of the earth is performed in a period rather lefs than
24 hours, becaufe in this fpace of time the earth not only defcribes one
revolution but as much more as is requifite to bring the fame terrellrial
meridian to the fun, and which angular fpace is equal to that which it
defcribes in the fame time in a contrary direction in its annual revolu-
tion round the fun ; fo that the interval between two tranfits of a fixed
ftar over the fame meridian which meafures the real duration of the ter-
rellrial rotation, is only 23'' 56' 4". From this difference the liars ap*
pear to gain upon the fun every day about 4' of time in their tranfit over
the meridian.

The period of the rotation of the earth is always uniform, but it it
not thus with the duration of the day, which is compofed, as we have
juft faid, of the time of its rotation, and of tliat which it employs to
defcribe round its axis, an angle which compenfates the quantity which
it has turned round the fun by the efFcft of its annual motion ; for this
other motion which is not performed in a circle but in an ellipfe, of
which the fun occupies one of the foci, is not uniform, and takes place
in the plane of the ecliptic, which is inclined to that of the equator.
From the concurrence of thefe caufcs the duration of the day, compared
with that of the rotation of the earth, is fomctimes lefs and fomeiimes
greater than 24 hours ; and the ferics of thefe differences conftitutes
what is called the equation of time f which mud, in fome feafons be added
and in others fubtradled from the hour marked by a clock regulated by
thie fun or true time^ to obtain mean timCf to which adronomical tables
refer, and by means of which we at prefent calculate with great pre-
cifion the motions of the heavenly bodies, and particularly thofe of the
fun and moon.

25. The lad mentioned body is confidered as a fatcllite of the earth,
becaufe revolving round it, it accompanies the earth in its revolution
round the fun.

The revolution of the moon round the eartli, when referred to the
cquinoAial points is accompHlhed in 27 days 7 hours 43^4"; but when
compared with the fun, which during this time appears to advaiwe in
the fame direAion, it employs 29 days 1 2 horrs 44' j" to pafs through,
the whole circumference of the heavens, with the fpace defcribed by
the fun added. This is the fvnodical revolution or the lunar month,
Which begins at the moment when the moon is directly between the fun

and

INTRODUCtlOWi

and earth, which is called in eonjunaioti: This afpe^ is re^refetiMd (ri
fig. 12, where 5 is the fmi, jTthe eartfi, and L the moon.
. During this revolution the rpoon affunijes ifelative to the fiin all pof-
fible fituations, fron:^ which refult her difftrcnt appearances or phafes {
in fa£t, the moon being an i>pake body like all the planets; c^ri. only be
feen wh?u (he reflefts to the eavth the lymiuqus rays received from, thp
fun, and it is requifite for this that Hie IhouM turn towards us at leaft
a portion of that hetnifphlrt whicii being diredly oppofite to the fun is
iemightened by ity ^ ,

The moon then only becomes vifible to iis when having paiied the

Soint L' ihe begins to turn tovvrards the edrth a poi-tibn or fegment of
er enlightened diflc, which infereafett as fhe feparates from ihe fun t<|
pafs to the other fide, Z,^, the iearth then being between the fun and
inoon fees the whole enlight,ened hemifphere of the lune> which in thit
ftate appears full or in uppqjfition to the fun; > mh

The conjunflion and oppofition of the itiobn with regard to the vm*
or the new and full moon, are the fyxygies. When the moon is diftani
from the fun by a quarter of her orbit, as at IJ and L"i Hie is in quO'
jrature ; we then only perceive half her enlightened hemifpheire; It i<
called her Bru or laft quartet- accdrd^ing as heir convexity is turned to the
well or eaft.

26. This explanation of the phafes of the moon. leemS immediately
ful^e^l to a dim'culty which leads to the caufe of eclipfes.

We are tempted to believe that the moon ought always, when ihe is
in conjun£lion with the fun) to conceal his dilk totally, or at lead par*
tially; and when it is in oppofition, to be imUheried in the Ihadow
which the earth curries behind it, and ceaHng to be enlightened by thfl
fun (hould become invifible. There would take place in the firft
cafe an eclipfe of the fun, and in the fecond an eelipfe of the mnoH.

Thefe phenomena, in fa£t, often take place under the circumflances
I have defcribed, and indeed often in a year ; but they do not happeit
at all the new and full moons, becaufe the orbit defcribed by -the moon
round the earth not being in the fame plane with that of the earth round
the fun, it happens mod frequently that the conjun£^ion of the moon is
a little above or below the fun, and a little above or below the fliadovr
of the earth at the oppofition.

However as the orbit of the moon interfe6ls the ecliptic in two points
called nades^ its coniun6tion and oppofition which may happen at the
points of her orbit, lometimes take place near the nodes, and then there
18 an eelipfe of the fun or moon.

To explain this circumftance better, I have joined to fig. la, which
reprefents the orbits of the earth and moon on z »eometrlcei planet fig. i$i
which Ihews the feSton ox profile following the line ST* This line ST
reprefents the plane of the ecliptic, and LL" that of the lunar orbit»
The iufpe6lion of this figure .is fufficient without any explanation to
ihew when there will or will not be an eclipfe. fiefides the detail of
tbefif circumftances and of the calculation ot eclipfes belongs to aftiuo
noRiy, and I have only to fpeak of that fcience as far as regards the ob«
fervation of thefe phenomena, for the purpofe of afcertaiuing the Ion*
gitude of a place on the earth.

27. It has been already feen ^11) that this depends on the df^Prmin*
atioD of the time reckoned at toe fame inftunt in two different^laccs*
by the obfervation of au inAantaneous phenomenon that can be obferved
at both points. «

7 ' nt

INTRODUCTION.

s?ii

The ecHpfes of the moon accompliih this perfeAly ; for a given
point of the lunar dific is immerfed in the earth's fhadow at the fame
inftant to all the places where the moon is viiible.

And the fpots fcattered over its diik afford the means of making
many obfervations during the fame eclipfe, by marking carefully the
time of the difappearance of each fpot at its entrance into the Hiadow or
smmerjion, and that of itd coming out of the (hadow or emerfion. If
the fame obfervations have been made at a place the pofition of which
is known, the difference between the time determined at each place by
the fame phenomenon gives the difference of longitude. If all the re-
fults do not exa£ily agree, the mean muft be taken.

It is not always neceflary to have obfervations correfponding to thofe
made at the place, the longitude of which is to be determined. If the
point is very diftant and has not yet been determined with great preci-
fion, the calculations made in good almanacks, fuch as the Gona'tjfance
des terns .of the French, or the Nautical Almanack of the Englifh, are
fufficiently exadl to fupply the place of thofe obfervations which we are
deprived of.

It is thus that the eclipfe of the moon on the 30th of July, 1787,
obferved by the aftroiromer Beauchamp, at CaJbinCi a place fituated in
the vicinity of the Cafpian fea, enabled Mr. Lalande to determine the
longitude of that place..

The end of the eclipfe or the total emerfion of the lunar diflc took
place at Cafbine at

7" 45' 30" fo^*"" t^™e
» And the calculation for Paris gives 4 36 38

The difference 3 8 52

correfj^.onds to the difference of the meridians of Paris and Cafbine. If
we convert it into degrees at the rate of 15 to an hour, which gives
15 minutes of a degree for a minute of time, and 15 feconds of a degree
for a fecond of time, we find

For 3"
For 8'
For 52"

13'

Tota.

47 n

This, then, reckoning from the meridian of Paris, h the longitude of
Cafbine, refulting from the above obfervation.

There may be fome uncertainty in this refult, not only oecaufe there
was no correfponding obfervation at the place, the longitude of which
was known, but alfo, becaufe we cannot be certain withm a few feconda
of the phafes of an eclipfe of the moon, and that 4' of time give a mi*
nute of a degree. Notwithftanding this imperfedion the obfervation of
lunar echpfes ought not to be neglefted whenever an occafion occursy
when we travel in a country of which the latitudes and longitudes ar»
but little known, becaufe the means of determining the longitude are
few, and have all fome degree of uncertainty.

FrM» what has been faid the reader fhould comprehend, that if
amonKphe planets which, like the earth, dcfcribe orbits round the
fun, tnere fhould be any with fatcUites revolving round them, thefe
l^odies being in fimilar circumstances to thofe which produce eclipfes of
the mooni will be immerfed in the fhadow of their planet ; and if their

C difappearance

SVUI

INTRODUCTION.

difappearance and reappearance could be obferv#d iti different placet at
the fame time, they would enable us to determine longitudes in the fam«
manner as the eclipfes of the moon.

This is the important use to geography, that is made of the eclipfei
of the four fatellites that accompany Jupiter, a planet remarkable for
its magnitude and the brilliance of the light which it reflects to us.
There are also two other planets, Saturn and Herfchel, which are ac-
companied by fatellites, but their minutenefs and diftance rendering them
fcarcely perceptible but in the moft powerful telefcopes ; the obferva*
tion oi their eclipfes is hardly pradticable.

The utility of the eclipfes of Jupiter's fatellites has induced aftrono-
mers not only to obferve affiduouily all thofe which are vifible, but alfo
to calculate tables to predift them, with fuch exaftnefs, that, like the
lunar eclipfes, the correfponding obfervations are not requifite.

28. The folar eclipfes are alfo employed in the determination of Ion.
gitudes ; but the calculation is not fo fimple as for eclipfes of the moon ;
they can only be performed by thofe very converfant with aftronomy ;
Mr. Lalande, by paying great attention to this fubjeA, has, by means
of them, redified the portions of a great many important places.

The caufe of the difficulty of this calculation isi that the relative fitu-
ations of the fun and moon are not the fame at all the points of the
earth where thefe two bodies are fecn at the fame time.

What takes place on this occafion may be obferved with the clouds,
which, when feen from a particular point, appear under the fun, and
caft their fliadow over a limited fpace, out of which the whole diflc of
the fun may be feen. A fpedlator on the edge of the Hiadow perceives
a part of the fun's disk, and the different appearances* change every
inllant by the eSe&. of the relative motions of the fun, the cloud, and
the fpe£lator. ,

To apply the obfervation of an eclipse of the fun to finding the lon-
gitude of places, it is requifite to have different phafes determined as
tne beginnm^ and end, and from thence deduce the middle ; the data
proper to alcertain the refpedtive pofition of the lines traverfed by the
centres of the fun and moon during the eclipfe muft be taken from the
aflronomical tables, to enable us to calculate the inflant when thefe two
bodies were in conjunftion. Knowing the hour when* this happened
at a given place, we deduce from the difference of thefe times the dif>
ference of longitude.

It often happens that the moon eclipfes the fixed flars; and by de-
termining from obfervation of the circumflances of this phenomenon,
which is called the occultathitt the moment when the centre of the moon
is in conjunAion with the flar, which afcertains the abfolute pofition of
the moon, we may, either by calculations made for this purpofe in the
aftronomical almanacks or by correfponding obfervations, find the time
of this conjunction, at a place the pofition of which is knovrn, and the
difference of longitude is found as in the preceding cafes.

29. The obicd of all thefe methods, in fa6t, in this: to determine
at the place, the longitude of which is required, the pofition of a ce-
leflial body at a given inftant, and to deduce from this pofition the time
which is reckoned at the fame inftant at a place whofe pofition it
known. It may be perceived by this defcription of the probkM^that
the celeftial body fhould have relatively to the earth amotion fiqppRitly
rapid, that its pofition with regard to the fSxed ftars or other celefHi^
b<xlies that ferve as a term of comparifon^ mvf vary confiderably in tht
fpace of 24 hours.

INTRODUCTION.

sts

Tht

The moon is moft proper for this purpofe, becaufe as it travels nearly
tj degrees a day, one minute of a degree in its change of place corre*
fpondfl to rather lefs than two minutes of time, or 30 minutes of a de-
gree of longitude ; and as we may by taking the angular diftance be*
tween the moon and the ftars or fun, afcertain its fituation with th«
greatcft prccifion, the time reckoned under a given meridian at the
moment of obfervation may by this means be determined withia two
minutes. ,

This operation has been fo much facilitated by inftruments of very
accurate conftruftion, by tables, and by various formula contrived for
this purpofe, that it can be performed almofl daily at fea, which has
confiderably advanced our knowledge of geograpliy, efpecially fince
by the example of Cook we have adopted the ufe of time-keepers ^ or
chronometers, which fcrve in the intervuis when the diltances between
the moon and fun or stars cannot be obferved.

30. The ufe of time-keepers alone would be fufficient if they could be
con{lru(!:^ed with fuch perfed^ion that being once fet to the hour under a
given meridian they would preferve the fame motion during the whole
voyage ; becaufe they would then always mark the time at that meridian,
which being compared with the time at the place required, would give
the difference of time, and confequently that of the meridians.

But if the exertions of Harrifon, of Julian le Roi, of Berthant, and
of all the celebrated artifts who have endeayoured to bring to perfection
this ufeful piece of mechanifm, have failed in rendering the motion of
chronometers thus perfeftly uniform, they have at leaft approached fo
ne?r it, that these chronometers do not vary perceptibly for a confider-
able interval of time, notwithilanding the agitation which the fea pro-
duces in the vessel.

3 1 . By confidering what has been faid above we may form a very
complete idea of the means of fixing the pofition of different points on
the earth by their latitude and longitude, which geography derives from
allronomy. We arrive at thefe refults with the greater exadtnefs in
proportion to our precifion in the obfervations, and in the calculations
which arife from them. To avoid rendering too complicated the expla-
nation of the principles on which the methods which I have fummarily
explained depend, I have avoided pointing out many corrections necef-
fary to free the obfervations from the eneCts of fome optical illufions
which affeCt them, and from the combination of fome flight motions*
both real and apparent, which the progrefs of aftronomy and the pro*
found knowledge of the laws of the fyftem of the world have enabled
us to know and appreciate.

Thefe are the moft fimple :

We know that a ray oi light pafHng from one medium into anoth(*r
of greater denfity fuffers a refraSion, because it approaches to the

ferpendicular to the furface of the ftrata which it fucceffively traverfes.
or this rcafon the heavenly bodies are never feen in their real places j
the ray which renders them vifible to us elevates them above the horizon^
by a quantity fo much the greater as they are nearer to this circle, and
which alfo depends on the ftate of the atmofphere at the time of ob«
fervation. This quantity (hould be known for each degree of altitude
abo^^^e horizon, that it may be fubtraCted from the oblenred, which
., is a^Hfs gnMter than the real altitude, except in cafe where the objeft
Us in the zenith ; becaufe then the ray of light, traverfing the atmo-
fpherical ftrata perpendicularly ^ does not fuffer any refraftton. It has
:been remarled (8) that the obfervation of altitudes was always refierred

c a to

•f-

INTRODUCTION.

from whence, by
plap.cts have been

toi the centre of the earth, confidcring the rays of light as all coming
to the earth in parallel dire£iions, and confequently negledling, from the
eonfiderable diftanee of the ftars from the earth in proportion to itf
tadius, the angle ylGC (fig- 3) ; but the planets are fo fufficiently near
to the earth for it to be requifite, particnlarly when great accuracy \9
required, that this angle Hiould be taken into conilderation. Its effect
is to deprefs the object below its real fituation with regard to the centre
of the earth. A liar at G, for example, would appear at the point ji,
in the horizon, while at the centre of the earth it would be elevated
by the angl* GCA^ equal to AGCi bccaufe the lines il/iVand mn are

1>arallel. The angle yiGCt formed as we fee by the diredlion of the
iues iu which the ftar would be feen from the centre of the earth, and
from a point on its furface, is called parallax. It changes with the
altitude of the ftar, and becomes notliing in the zenith, bccaufe the
centre C and the , the place ^and the liar arc then all on the fame
ftraight line j but it is a maximum in the horizon ; it amounts to 8" 6
for the fun, and for the moon it varies from 54' to 6i' according to its
different diftances from the earth. It is the exa«5l determination of thia
angle, for the fun and moon, that ha? made us acquainted with the
ablolute diftanee of thefe bodies froni the earth,
the laws of Kepler, the dillances of the other
deduced.

The effeft of parallax being contrary to that of refradlion, it muft
be added to the obferved altitude to bring it to ; and it fhould be taken
into conftdcratioi; as well as refra£tion, in all angles obfcrved or calcu«
lated that depend on altitude.

It is the difficulty of appreciating the effeft of thefe correftions, on
the apparent diftanee of the moon from the fun or ftars, to convert it
to the real diftanee, that renders the calculation of the longitude by thi»
method fo complicated.

When the fituation of a celeftial body, fuch as the fun or moon,
whofe difk has a perceptible diameter, is required, it is the limb that wc
obferve, and the femidiameter must be addtd or fubtradted from this to
get the pofition of the centre ; bccaufe this is the point always given in
aftronomical calculations.

32. By the alTiftanceof thefe corrections, for which there are tables
ready conftrufted, we can deternunc with precifion the real altitude of
« celeftial objedt above the horizon. If we take it on the meridian,
and its diftanee from the equator ifl known, we may d<;duce the latitude
of the place.

The tables of the fun's motion, or the ephcmcridcs of this body,
which are previoufty calculated, give its diftanee from the equator, or
t/ec/ination, for every day in the ytur.

We may therefore find the latitude of a place at any time, becaufe
we get the height of tlie e(juator above the horizon, by fubiradlinjr
the fun's declination from its altitade.if it is above the equator, ana
adding it if it iu below ; n circumftance thnt we may always afcertaiir
ky the fituation of thi diadrjw and by the fcafon.

After having found, a priori, either by the method dcf';ribcd in lo
or in 22, the ktitudcof their obfervatory, aftronomerti have endeavoured
to determine the diftances of the principal fixed ftars from the equator,
and the time which elapfes between their refpedlive tranfits over the
meridian, and the point of the ecliptic correpfonding to the vernal
equinox. They have conftiucted cutaloguei, in which thtfc rcfultsaro
fiveni and by the afltftaiicc of which wc may at any time fubftitute

5 lliC

INTRODUCTION.

xx!

the ftart for the fun in finding the latitude, and which multiply the
means of determining this important element of geographical polltions.

33. All thefe obfervations prefuppofe the pofition of the meridian
to be known. The polar ftar indicates it very nearly in the northern
hemifphere, but it is the fun's motion is the moft convenient way of
afcertaining it with any degree of accuracy.

For, on the day of the folftice, the fun, which does not change it«
diftance from the equator perceptibly, feems to defcribs a circle parallel
to it, and of which the portion BCDtfg. l, included above the hori*
zon, is divided equally by the meridian, it therefore follo\y8, that ita
altitude is precifely the fame taken at equal intervals before and after
its tran&t over the meridian, and that, reciprocally, if we take the
fun's altitude in the morning, and wait for the moment wlien it returns
to this altitude in the evening, tlie moment of its meridian tranfit will
be the medium between thefe two.

We may eafily comprehend that the length of the (hadows of bodies
depends not only on their own height, but on that of the fun above
the plane on which they reft. If this plane is horizontal, and we raife
a vertical yiD upon it, Jg. 14, SD being the diredtion of the folar ray,
its length will depend on the angle SC/i^ which is evidently the height
of the fun above the horizon.

When the fun, therefore, having paffed the meridian, is found to b«
at the fame altitude on the other nde, in the direflion S* D, the (hadovr
^B of the vertical /iD will again become equal to the Hiadow jlC i
and taking the medium between the dirc6tion of both, by bife^-
ing the angle BjIC with the right line jfNy we (hall obtain the
meridian.

It ought to be obferved, that if we meafure at the fame time the
length ot the fliadow and of the ftick, we may, by the folution of the
rectilinear triangle CyfDf in wliich the fides y/Z) and jiC are known,
calculate the angle j4CDt or the fun's altitude. We get the meridian
altitude if we meafure tlie length of the fhadow when it falls in the
dire£lbn jIN. It is by this means that the early ailrunomers got the
altitudes of the ftnrs ; the estrornity of an obelidc, or an opening in
•n upright wall, gave the vortical /ID. This fimple inftrument ig
called 9. gnomon ; but it has been abandoned fince inilrutnents have been
brought to great perfection, of fmall dimenlions, which meal'ure angles
direftly by the arcs of circles.

Thefe latter are ufed even for the determination of the meridian, by
combining them with clocks of extreme regularity. For this purpore
an altitude of the fun is taken in the morning, and the time marked ;
we then wait till the Tame time in the «nening, when the fun has the
/ame altitude, and taking the mean of the interval, we get the time
which has elapfed between iti* meridian traiifit and one, the obfer*
vationi.

If, fur example, the clock marked at the fame altitude in the
morning, - - - - ^^ 45' 30"

In the evening . . • - 2 23 i a ^^

quator,
ver the
vernal
ults are
bllitute
the

The interval between thefe two moments being - 4 37 4?

The half • . . . . • aiS5(

Added to the time of the fir(l altitude • • 9 45 30

Givci

• ilili<l ;^ «« 4 a»

fer

txH

INTRODUCTION.

for the time marked by the clock at the inftant of the fun's tranfit
over the meridian.

By repeating thcfe obfervalions of correfponding altitudest we arc
able to regulate the clock, and to get very exaftly the moment of the
fun*8 meridian tranlit, from which we immediately deduce the direction
of the meridian Hue.

s. It is to facilitate the explanation of this pj-ocefs that I have fuppofed
the fun to be at the folftice ; becaiife it may be employed at any time
of the year, by applying to the refult a flight corrtftion for the change
of the fun's dechnation, in the interval between the two altitudes which
influences its duration ; but this correction is always very fmall, and may
be negleded when we make ufe of fhadows to tind the meridian, at
leaft if the fun is not very near the equinox, at which time the daily
variations in his declination is a maximum.

^4. The true lime may be found by a finglc altitude of the fun, or
a ftar, when the latitude of thie place and the dechnatinn of the objeft
is known, and the pofition of the meridian may then be deduced. It
is done thus :

Two great arcs are fuppofed to pafs through the zenith, fig. 15,
through the pole, and through the objcf^.

The firft, which is the vertical, in which the ftar is, meafures its
diftance from the zenith ; the fecond its diftance from the pole. Thefe
two arcs form, with the part of the meridian Z/\ comprehended between
the poFe and the zenith, a fpherical triangle, in which the three fides
are known ; becaufe ZP is the complement of the height of the pole
PN i ZS the complement of the real altitude l/S ; and tlie arc PS is
deduced from the declination of the liar, which mud be fubtraded
from the diftance of the pole from the equator, or 90**, if the objeft
is between the pole and the equator, or added to this diftance if it is
on the other fide the equator. With thcfe data, and by tlie refolution
of the fpherical triangles, the angles PZS and ZPS may be calculated,
the fame as thofe of the planes which include the fides ZP and PS,
ZP and ZS. The firft marks the difference which there is between
the meridian of the place yf, and that on which the ftar is at the
moment of obfervation ; and if this be reduced into time, it gives the
interval that fhould elapfe between the moment of obfervation and the
paffage of this ftar over the meridian ; it is called, on this account, the
horary angle.

When it is the fun that is to be obferved, this time fhould be added
to or fubtniAed from iz", according as the obfervation is made before
or after its tranfit over the meridian. When we obferve a fixed ftar,
the time of its tranfit muft be calculated, which may be eafily done by
means of the data furnifhed by the catalogues already mentioned

The angle PZSt as it gives the angle which the plane ZAN of the
meridian of the place makes with the vertical plane Z/1H drawn through
the ftar, both perpendicular to the plane M//N, is meafured by the
angle of the common fedtions ^h and jiN of the firft and fecond with
the third.

If, therefore, the dircftion of /fj/ be marked upon the horizontal
plane at the moment of obfervation, the direttiou of^ the meridian MN
may be deduced.

Jf ZS hr taken 90 the point S will then be at N in the horizon, and
the horary angle ZPS will give the difference between the hour of the
ilar's meridian tranfit and that of its real rifing or fetting. If the hour
of its apparent rifing or fetting is required^ the fefra^ioa which raifes

the

INTRODUCTION.

xxiM

added

before

ftar,

lone by

in, and

of the

e hour

raifes

the

the objeft above the horizon, mud be added to the arc ZH or 96',
and the parallax which deprefles it, fubftra6ted from it.

The angle PZS^ calculated according to thefe circumftances, gives
the dittance which the liar, at the moment when it is in the horizon,
is from the north or fouth point of this circle, according to the deno-
mination of the pole P.

The obfervation of this diilance, which is called the rijing or fetttng
amplitude according as it is obferved at the rifing or fetting, and that
of the azimuth or tne angle comprized between the vertical ZS and the
meridian ZPt are ufeful to afcertain how much the dire£tion of the
magnetic needle varies from the meridian line, in order that the compafs
may be made ufe of to find this line.

55. The calculation of the rifing and fetting of the fun leads to the
determination of the duration of twilight, becaufe it is fufEcient to
augment the arc ZH by 18**, the meafure of the deprelEon, after
which the rays of the fun reflefted by the atmofphere, can no longer
reach tht furface and produce that faint light which appears before the
rifing and after the fetting of the fun.

By making the preceding calculation for different latitudes and
different declinations of the fun, the precife duration of the longeil *
and fhorteft days, and of the longeil and fhortefl twihghts, is obtained.
36. The figure and magnitude of the earth is determined by obferv-
ing the exa6t difference of latitude between two places, and meafuring,
with extreme precifion, the diilance between them, in fome flandard
linear meafure. This is one of the mofl delicate operations of practical
geometry. Many attempts to determine the figure of the earth have
y^cn made at different periods, but the firll that deferves notice wat
*.!. urdertak.^n by Picard in 1670. This ingenious aflronomer (one
< . c .10ft dillinguifhed members of the academy of fciences), by the
a. ; -nation of telefcopes to adronomical iuflruments infleaa or the
plain fights formerly in 'jfe, fcTmuch increafcd their power, that he was
enabled to determine, within a few fcconds, angles which before could
only be meafured to as many minutes.

The reader who is familiar with the elements of geometry, and
acquainted with the method of detcrnuiiing the dillances and relative
poiitions of places on the earth's furface, will readily form an idea
of the great advantages which fcience derived from this important im-
provement, and of the great fuperiority of Picard's meafurcmcnt over
other operations that prcvioufly had been undertaken for the fame
purpofe.

The arc of the meridian, meafured by Picard, extended from Mal-
toilinc to Amiens: these places were trigonomctrically connc£led by
a chain of triangles (lig. 16), and the equality of three angles of a
triangle to 180** offered an obvious method of verification. The ob*
fervrd angles wert: not always found to equal this quantity, but the
very fmall difcoidance fhcwed the errors of the operation to be included
within very narrow limits.

The determination of the angles of thefe triangles gave the relation
of their fides to each other, but not their real magnitude ; but when the
value of one of them is known, the reft are readily determined. To
t'Std this a bai'e was meafured, with inconceivable care, on the high
road between Vitlejuive and Juvify. Its length was 5C63 toifes ; with
this line (reprcfented in the figure by j1B)t and whicli forms one fide
of the triangle ^BC^ the fides ACt BCt were calculated : thefe were
iu the fame manner employed to determine the fides sf the trinnglet

c 4 ' fiCD,

iMI

iiMMa

*X1V

INTRODUCTION.

JCD, BCMf conne6ted with the former, and thus the whole feries of
triangles were deteimined, which connedled the extreme ftationsi Mai-
Toifine and Am:?ns.

To complete the operation it was ncccflaiy to determine the length
of the line which joins thefe ftations, and its fituation with refpeft to
the meridian, for the purpofe of computing their meridional dillance ;
and laftly, to afcertain the amphtude of tiiis meridional arc, that is,
the number of degrees, minutes, and feconds intercepted by it, by which
Us relative proportion to the whole circumference is ultimately deter-
mined.

This latter part of the operation is entirely aftronomical, and requires
that the zenith diftance of feme ilar fhould be accurately obferved at
each Action. The flar chofen by Picard was a bright ftar in Caf-
liopex : it was chofen bccaufe it paflcd near the zenith, to avoid the
uncertainty of refra6tion, the effeft of which, at low altitudes, was but
imperfeftly afcertaiucd at that time. The difference of latitude between
Malvoiiiue and Sourdon, near Amiens, was found to be i° ii'^^",
which coirefponded to a meridional diilance of 68,430 toifes, and the
value of a degree was eftimated at 57,064 toifes.

The difference of latitude between Amiens and Malvoifine was found
to be 1° 22' SS"> ^"'^ ^^*^''" meridional diflance 78,830 toifes, which gives
the degree equal to 57,057 toifes : the mean ultimately adopted was
57,060 toifes.

37. The circumference of the earth, fuppofed circular, is eafily
deduced from thefe data, fince every circumference contains 360 de-
grees : dividing every degree into 20 parts, called marine leagUes, each
equal to 2853 toifes, the circumference of the earth will contain 7200
of thefe leagues.

It now appeared, that if the figure of the earth was not exa^'^ly
fpherical, it at leaft differed from that form but a very fmall quantity.
It may be obferved that, independently of the remark (No. 2}, the
circular form of the earth's fhadow, in eclipfes of the moon, and the
fpherical appearances of the celtiUal bodies that admit of examination,
feemed to indicate, in a decided manner, the true figure of the earth j
neverthelefs it might have happened, that a confiderable variation from
a pcrfeft fpheie might have fubfilted, which would not eafily have
been deteded. But llronger argument in favour of this hypothefis
was deduced from this circumilance, that navigators had always em-
ployed one meafure of a degree on every part of the globe, without
any fenfible error ; for, had very great variation fubfifled, they would
eafily have perceived it, from tiieir daily praflice of comparing their
4ifFerence of latitude with the edimuted run of the (hip.

The fpherical hypothefis being thus confirmed,
Its diameter, calculated from the computed 1 .

circumference J '^ "92 leagues.

The radius , , 1146

And its fuperficial furface ' 16,501,200

38. Notwithflanding the oxaAneps of Picard's meafurement, aflro.
nomy foon indicated methods of afcertaining, with greater precifion,
the hgure of the earth, and likewife a proof of its diurnal rotation ;
an hypothefis that had long been adopted, to rive a more plaufible
explanation of the apparent motion of the celcftial fphere. Huygheui
was the fiifl phiiolophcr who, refle«ftinj' on the centrifugal force
acquired by Jl bodies turning on an a\'u (and exemplified in the path
of a (lone prgjeAcd ^om a Hiag), fufjpccUd that the fluid matter

^ ^ diilhbuted

INTRODUCTION.

XXV

[■agues.

diftributed on the furface of the globe Ihould neceffanly yield to
this influence, and that the portion near the equator (hould become
elevated, while that in the vicinity of the pole (hould become neceffa-
rily more deprefled. According to the calculation made by this phi-
Ir/fopher, the equatorial axis (hould exceed the polar axis by the ^f*
part, which correfponds to about four leagues. This hypothefis of
Huyghens may be experimentally illuftrated by caufing a wet bladder
to revolve round an axis, when it will be feen to alTume a fpheroidicdl
figure, flattened at the extremities of the axis on which it revolves.

Newton, who had been led to the difcovery of the principle of uni-
▼erfal gravitation by meditating profoundly on the laws di (covered by
Kepler relative to the planetary motions, diflPered from Huyghens in
not confidering gravity as a force conftantly direfted to the centre
of the earth, but refulting from the mutual gravitation of all the par-
ticles of which the earth is compofed to each other. Upon this fup-
pofition he found the force of gravity on the furface would be fubje^
to fome fmall variation, both in direftion and intenfity ; that the figure
of the earth would be an oblate fpheroid, compreffed at the poles and
elevated at the equator ; but he eftimated the quantity of this com-
prefTion at ^^^, nearly double that alfigned by Huyghens.

39. Thefe refults, which agree as to the nature, but diflFer as to the
quantity of the compreflion of the earth's (igure, admit of a very
wtisfaftory verification, by means of degrees meafured on different
parts of the terreftrial meridian ; for if this hypothefis be corrett, the
degrees (hould be greater in the more comprefTed parts ; that is, at
the poles, and lefs in the moft elevated or equatorial regions. This
confequencc is deduced from principles (lri6tly geometrical, and has
never been called in queftiun but by thofe who have quite mifconceived
the nature and definition of a degree of meridian. The importance
of the fubje£t requires that it (hould be entered into with confiderable
minutenefs.

It is a h&. univerfally acknowledged, and confirmed by experience^
that the dire£^ion of gravity, or the vertical^ is always perpendicular
to the terreftrial furface, whatever may he its form. We are aflfured
of this by various r: ?ans ; by aftronomical obfervation, by levelling,
and by obferving the hori/on as bounded by the fea. From this con-
fideration a degree of the meridian may be defined, " the /pace luhich
it Is neceffary to pafs over on this curve^ <whatever may be its nature, Jo
that the tv/o lines jiZ, A'ZJ (fig. 17), drawn from the extremities of
this /pace perpendicular to the curve FG (that is, to its tangents jim,
jiM\ whtch mark the horizon to the two points A and A' ), may makt
with each other an angle, AC A, equal to one degree.**

This definition being arbitrary cannot be contefted, it only remains
to (hew, that aftronomers have conftantly determined the value of a
degree according to this definition ; and this cannot be denied, fince
they always meafure the amplitude of the arc by comparing the zenith^
of the two extremities with the fame ftar, or the verticals drawn through
thefe extremities.

This being admitted, if the curve FG be a circle, the lines CA, CAt,
perpendicular to its tangents, will be radii proceeding from the cen*
tre, and mull always meet at tlie fame diftance from the curve ; anc)
fincc throughout the whole circumference, the fame angle will
always anfwer to the fame arc, the degrees will all be of an equsl
length.

MUHB

XXVI

INTRODUCTION.

It will be very different for curves in which the curvatnre ft not
uniform. If two. arcs be taken of the fame length, as JiJm', mm',
(lig. 18. ) the one on the mod convex, the other on the mod comprcifed
portion of the fphere, then the perpendiculars MC and M' Cj drawn
fiom the extremities of the firft arc will meet nearer to this arc titan the
perpendiculars m Cy ni'c drawn through the extreniities of the more com-
prcffed arc m m. The angle m e m' is therefore evidently lefs than the
angle M C M't and confequcntly if this laft. is a degree, the arc mm
equal in length to MM' cannot correfpond to a degree. To obtain
a degree in the part m P oi the curve we muft neceflarily comprehend
a gi-eater fpace than MM\

This manner of conceiving the fubjeft feems fufficiently diilin^t t«
obviate every difficulty as to tlie condufion which fhould be drawn
from the inequalities of different degrees ; for it cannot be denied that
they muft be greater where the curvature of the meridian is moft
comprefled, and fmaller where it is moft convex. About the begin-
ning of the laft century a mifconccption' prevailed with fome writers,
from not fufficiently attending to thefe confiderations, and the oppoflte
confe^quence was fuppofed to follow from the miftaken opinion that the
degrees were meafured by the angles Mo M' mOm formed by lines
drawn from the centre of the ellipfe, but this hypothefis was contrary
to the operations by which degrees are meafured, for the lines M and
M't m and vi not being perpendicular to the curve, are very
different from thofe verticals to which tlie celeftial arc is referred.
This error was but of fhort continuance, nor has it ever fince been re-
vived, except by perfons quite incompetent to form any opinion on the
fubjctt.

40. The Academy of Sciences employed themfelves very afliduoufly
in devifing methods of verifying the hypothefis of Newton and
Huyghens. Two expeditions co-nfifting of fome of its moft learned
members were fent out, one in 1736, to Peru, the other in 1737, to
the polar circle, to meafure an arc of tlie meridian at each of thefe
places ; the one fitnate on the equator, the other as near the pole at
was acceffible. The refult of thefe meafurements did not exaftly
accord with each other and with the intermediate degree meafured ia
France, yet was fufficicnt to put the qucftion of the flattened figure of
the earth beyond all doubt. The degree meafured on the polar circle
furpaffed the equatoiial dej^rce 669 toifes, and that meafured in France,
though lefs than the polar degree, furpafl'ed that of Peru by 307
tfiifes.

Thefe differences, far too confidcrable to be attributed to error of
obfervation, proved incontelUbly that the earth was flattened at the pole,
but to determine the difference of the two axes, it was neceffary to be
acquainted with the nature of tiie curve which forms the terreftrial me.
ridian. The theoretical invcftigation of Newton and his fucceffors
/hewed that this curve might be an eUiple, but in comparing this theory
with different operations, a great difcordance was found to fubfift, and
this was fuppofcd to arife from a caufe which in fome meafure ftrength-
ened the Newtonian theory of gravitation. And this was the irregular
attraction of mountains. Bouqucr firft fufpeftod that the plumb line
of his fe6tor was drawn from its true pc^fition towards the mountain
Pechintcba in Peru. This cffcft of local altradlion was afterwards con-
firmed by Dr. Mafkclync, who iniHtuted fonic very cxaft experiments
for this purpofc, in the nortli of Great Britain. The length oJF the

pendulum

INTRODUCTION.

-xxvM

rror of
pole,
to be
al me-
ceflbrs
tlicory
\, and
ength-
cgular
b line

pendulum vibrating feconds was found to vary, regularly indicating a de-
creafe of the force of gravity towards the equator, but the quantity of
this variation did not exaftly accord with the figure of the earth as de-
duced from the meafurement of different degrees. Clairaut and fucceed-
ing mathematicians have explained in part this difficulty, by ftiewing
that the above variations indicated an increafe of denfUy towards the
center, in the matter compofing our planet. They have fliewn that if
the figure of the earth be what is termed by mathematicians a figure of
revolution, that is, a figure produced by the revolution of a curve about
a fixed axis, in that cafe, for the iluids on its furface to be in a (late of
equilibrium, the generating curve Ihould be an ellipfe whofe leffer axis
Ihould pafs through the poles.

It was in France that the degree of the meridian was firft determined
with precifion, and it was likewife in France that the operation wa«
brought to an unexpected degree of perfcdion by the introdu6tion of
the repeating circle of Berda in a form adapted to terreftrial operations,
inilead of being made only for maritime obfervations for which it was
originally intended. Delambre and Mechain •"* 'ntrufted with the
fuperintendence of this great trigonometrical o^vdUon, which was to
determine the length of an arc of the meridian extending from Dun-
kirk to Barcelona. The principal objc6l was to determine the length of
the new metres a ilandard meature equal to the ten millionth part of
the terreftrial quadrant, and though this arc does not exceed the tenth
part of the quadrant, yet by means of this inftrument they were able
to perceive the inequality of the degrees rcfulting from the fpheroidical
figure of the earth.

Many irregularities were obferved in this meafurement which arc not
very material in queftions purely geographical.

A moft laborious inveftigation of the whole proccfs was undertaken
by a committee appointed by the Inftitute, afiifted by feveral learned
foreigners fent for the purpofe by their refpedlive governments, and their
determination fixed the compreffion or ellipticity of the earth at yl^.
This refult is the more probable as it agrees with that obtained by the
meafures of the length of the pendulum in different climates, and with
other refults from confiderations entirely aUronomical. The equatorial
regions being thus elevated above the reft are lubjeA to an excefs of
attraflion from the celeftial bodies, particularly the fun and moon ;
and it is from this caufe that a motion of the axis of the earth take<
place, producing the fingular phenomenon known by the name of the
•* treceJJiQn of the equinoxes t* accompanied by a periodical irregularitj
called the nutation.

The degree meafured by the academicians at the polar circle indicated
a greater quantity for the ellipticity than any other meafure, and this
circumftance induced a fufpicion that fome confiderable error might
have been committed in the proccfs. To remove this doubt M. Melander
Hielm, a learned Swedifti aftronomer, undertook a new meafurement
«f this degree ; he smploved the repeating circle, and made ufc of every
precaution which the preient refined ftate of the fcience could fuggeft.
The French academicians only meafured one degree. M. Melander
included an arc of double that magnitude in his operation, by a firft
iketch of the calculation communicated to Delalande, the degree in
latitude 66,20 appears to be 196 toifes Icis than the former meafurement
of 173^ and the ellipticity jj^y which does not differ greatly from the
determuiation given above*

The

XXVIU

INTRODUCTION.

The planet Jupiter* offers a firiking example of the effeft of the centri>
fugal force in producing a fpheroidical figure. The difference of tht
two diameters of this planet rp pears by exaft meafurement with a
micrometer to be nearly -^^ of the whole, and if by analogy we compute
the comprellion of the poles of the earth, by comparing the time of its
rotation with that of Jupiter, we find the clHpticity or compreffion to
be about j^^ or jj^ which is nearly the fame as that found by other
methods' Many other phenomena, the inveftigation of which is foreign
to the plan of this treatife, indicate a fimilar compreflion ; fo that we
may confider this compreflion as a fail no longer disputed, being verified
both by experiment and analogy. See Mechanique Celeile, tom. II .
&III.

41 . The principal dimenfions of the earth from the latefl meafurement
are as follows :

The arc of the meridian bet^veen Dv. kirk and Montjou contains 9*
of the wholecircle ; its length is equal to 275,792 modulesj the module
being a rod of platina equal to 199,862 toifcs. Thetoife employed in
this comparifon was that which ferved for the meafure of the degree in
Peru, reduced to the length it fliould hare at the mean temperature
which prevailed during that operation, and the module taken at the
mean temperature of the operation executed in France. The mean of
the meafured arc correfponded to latitude 46° ii'5". Hence it was
computed that

The quadrant of the terreftrial meridian is equal to 513,074 toifes,
The whole circumference is equal to 2,052,296

which amounts to 7,193 leagues of 2853 toifcs each*. ;

Thefe new meafures, determined with fuch great exadlnefs, differ but
feven leagues in the whole circumference from the meafurement of
Picard, from which we may judge of the very fmall degree of uncer-
tainty that at prefent remanis on this fubjedl.

The mdrc or the ten millionth part of the quadrant appears from
the preceding determinations to be equal to 513,074 toiles, 443,296
lines.

With this (landard as unity larger meafures are taken by decuple
progreflion, and fmaller ones by decimal fubdivifion ; a method ex-
tremely well adapted to geographical computations, as will be feen in
the following pages.

The terreftrial radii not being equal to each other catmot be com-
puted as in the circle ; formulse mud be inveftigated to exprefs the
relation of the arcs of an ellipfe with the axis of this curve, and it has
been found that if the compreflion is taken at -j^^ the fame axis £
[[fig. 18.) or the equatorial radius, contains 2,273,279 toifes, and the
femi axis P, or the polar radius, is equal to 3,263,050, the difference
being equal to 10,229.

Particular formulte :jre likcwife neceffary for compiiting the value of
the meridional degrees for every latitude ; thefe are obtained by fiudinor
the point of interfe6tion of the perpendiculars or Normals with each
other Thefe and all other requifite formuln for calculating the po->
•itions of different points on the terreftrial fpheroid may be lound in a
publication by Delambre, entitled, " Methodes Analytiques pour la

l'. * If d re^^refent the polar radius of the earth, md b the equatoTMl radius ; then,

• — 3*17 1 a6 toiles h ~ 3261432 toifes. •

'•^ = 6375737 metres. 6356649 metres.

= 30918230 EngMkh feet. %o%Si^%% £n|ljih fatt. T.

Detcrmi"

INTRODUCTION.

XXIS

Determination d*an Arc du Meridien ;" to which intelh'gent work the
reader who wi(hes for further information is particularly referred. I
ftiall only mention the value of the degree in 45% as that is nearly the
mean between that of the pole and that at the equator. It is 56,960
toises. This ellipticity of the earth, viz. ^y^, producing in the two
diameters a difference of only feven leagues, would only give a difference
of I { line in a fpheroid of three feet diameter ; no attention need be
given to this fmall quantity in the conftruftion of our terrellvial globes,
this difference being too inconfiderable to deferve notice relative to the
whole fphere. Becaufe ftill lefs important in the details of geography,
and may be entirely neglefted in the conftruflion of geographical
charts, I fhall therefore throughout tbia introf^udion, confider the
earth a perfeA fphere. The quadrant being divided into 90 equal
parts, the mean degree will be 57,000 toifes, and the marine league
2850 toifes.

Thefe obfervations apply flill more forcibly to the fmallnefs of the
terrellrial mountains, compared to the diameter of the earth. The
higheft known mountain not exceeding 3000 toifes in its perpendicular
elevation, or a little more than a marine league, and the diameter
of the earth contBining 2292 of thefe, a mountain of this height
would only have one line of elevation if rcprefcnted on a globe of 30
feet diameter.

SECT. II. Construction and use of different representations of the
earth and different parts of the earth.

43. The moil accurate method of reprefenting the furface of the
earth is certainly by means of a terreftrial globe, and indeed it is the
only one in which the relative pofition and magnitude of different
regions can be given in a fimple form.

The moft fimple and exav^ method of conftvufting them is to deli-
neate on the furface (according to directions hereafter to be given) the
various countries intended to be reprefented.

Let two points be taken diametrically oppofite to each other, to re-
prefent the poles, through thefe the axis of rotation must neceffarily
pafs. With one of thefe points ao a centre, and at an equal diflance
from each, let a circle be defcribed which will reprefent the equator.
Any great circle paffing through the poles, may be taken as the firfl
meridian, and of which each quadrant beginning from the equator mull
be divided into 9©*. The equator, likcwife, reckoning from the meri-
dian, muft be divided into 360°. This being done, it will be extremely
eafy to allign the true pofition on the globe, of any place whofe lati-
tude and longitude are known. All that is rcquilite is to mark the
latitude with a point on the firfl meridian, and through this point with
the pole as a centre, defcribe a circle which will be a parallel to the
equator paCing through the place, then a great circle is to be drawn
through the poles and through the point of the equator corrcfponding
to the longitude, and the interfe6tion of thefe two circles will be the
pofition of the place.

4|. The latitude of a place being reckoned from the equator, its
origm is determined by circumftances depending on the rotatory motion
of the earth, but it is otherwlle with the longitude of a place beiog
reckoned from a meridian, and there being no dccifive reafon for pre-
ferring one meridian to another, geographers in their choice of this nave
differed much from each other.

Ptolemy,

mmm

txx

INTRODUCTION.

Ptolemy, who has tranfmitted to us the moft ancient geographical
chart upon record, reckons from the meridian of the Fortunate or
Canary Ifles, from tlieir being fituated at the weftward extremity of
that portion of the world which was known in his time. And this por-
tion extending farther in th«.' eaft and wefl direction than from north to
fouth, tlic firil meafure was called longithde or length) the other latitude
or breath, names ftill retained to this day.

That all longitudes might be reckoned in a uniform manner,
Louis XIII. ordered that the firft meridian (hould be placed on the
ifland of Ferro, the moft weftward of the Canaries ; and Delifle, who
firll introduced a confiderable precifion into our maps, fixed the longi-
tude of Paris 20° to the eaftward of this meridian. More recent obfer-
vations have determined the difference of longitude between Paris and
the principal town of the ifle of Ferro to be 20" 5' 50", fo that it be-
came neceffary to advance the firft meridian 5' 20" to the eaft, hence it
is now merely an arbitrary circle, not palling through any remarkable
place on the earth .

The Dutch reckoned their firft meridian from the peak of TenerifFe,
a mountain fituated in an ifland of that name, formerly fuppofed to be
the higheft in the world.

Geographers reckon their longitudes eaftward of the firft meridian :
they have made choice of continuing round the entire circle j thus a
place one degree to the weftward has evidently, according to this method,
359® of longitude.

Thefe method? luve undergone confiderable alterations, efpecially by
mariners, fiace ailronomical obfervations have become generally adopted
in the fciencc of navigation, for fince the time at which any celeftial
phenomenon happens, and from which the pofitisn of a place is calcu-
lated, is always given in tlie tables for the principal obfcrvatory of the
country for which they arc conftrtifted, it has been found much more
commodious to refer the difierence of longitude to the exadl point for
which thefe tables are made. For this reafon French manners reckon
their longitude from Parie, and the Englifti from Greenwich. More-
over, when the longitude of a place is deduced from the diiference of
time which clapfcs between tfie pafTage of the fame ftar over the meri-
dian, or by the difference of time as reckoned at each place, the dif.
ference of longitude may be confidered in two different ways ; for in tra.
veiling towards the eaft, the computed time is greater than at the point
of departure, and this may amount to 24 hours in making a circuit of
the whole globle in an eaftward direiflion : the contrary happens in tra-
velling weftward ; it therefore becomes neceffary, in announcing the
difference of time, to ftate whether it arifes from a change of fituation
towards the eaft or weft. And it is the cuftom in making marine
charts, to reckon the longitude from the neareft diftance from the firft
meridian, fo that the longitude fliall never exceed tlie demi-circumfe-
rence or 180°. The globe being thus divided into two hemifpheres re-
latively to the firft meridian, thofe places on the eaftward hafr are faid
to have eaft longitude and thofe in the other weft longitude.

45. Hence we fte the neccflity of being able to reduce the longitude
referred to one meridian after the manner of geographers, to thofe
reckoned from fome other according to the method ufed by navigators.
For inrtance, in the cafe of longitudes reckoned geographically, by
making the whole circuit of the globe in an eaftward direction, if we
v?i(h" to compare two meridians, the difference of longitude muft be
taken } aud if the meiidian from which the ncvr longitudes are to be
/ ^ ^ reckoned

:ii :■

INTRODUCTION.

xxxk

gators,
ly, by

if we
lua b«

to be
rkoned

^teckoned 18 weft of the other,' tbis difference is to be added to thefe
longitudes, and on the contrary is to be' fubtracted, if fuuated to the
caftward.

For example, the peak of Teheriffe being fituatcd one degree to the
eaftvvard of the ifle of Ferro, all the longitudes reckoned accordinjf to
the Dutch manner from this mountain, being augmented one degree,
wifl give the longitudes reckoned from the ifle of Ferro ; it would be
•eceflary on the other hand to fubtradl one degree from thefe latter
longitudes to obtain the former.

But when they are reckoned from the fame meridian, all the longi*
tudes eaftward as far as iSo** are the fame in both methods, but the lon«
gitudes weftward muft be fubtra6ted from 360° to reduce them to geo-
graphical longitudes ; and reciprocally, we may reduce a longitude
which furpafl'es 180° to a weft longitude, by fubtrading it from 360%
as in the following example :

- Carthegena in America, according to the tables, is fituate in longi-
tude 281* 57' from meridian of Paris ; taken from 360, the difference
78* 3' is the longitude ; this being 17' beyond the oppofite point, we
have 179*43' ^o'" its longitude, eaft of the meridian of Paris.

46. The points which are firft placed on the globe . are thofe whole
longitudes and latitudes have been accurately determined ; they are
cfually the capital cities of different kingdoms, celebrated maritime
ports, and the points which ferve as boundaries to fome of the moftf .
remarkable finuofities of the ocean ; the intermediate fpaces are filled
up from drawings geometrically conftrufted on a plane furface, or from
the defcription of travellers ; to this is added'the boundaries of different
ftates and the courfe of the principal rivers.

47. By means of a globe we may with great facility determine the
diftance of two places from each other, and meafure the extent of dif-
ferent countries. The Ihorteft diftance of two points on a fphere is'
meafured on an arc of a great circle pafllng through them, and as all
great circles are equal, the degrees of any great circle are of equal value
with thofe of the meridian; the arc required may be therefore eafily
meafured by r^pplying it by means of a pair of compaffes either to the
meridian or equator, which are ufually graduated. If, for example,
the arc contained between two places and referred to the meridian con-
tains 29° 45', the Jhorteft diftance between thefe points will be obtained
by converting thefe degrees and minutes into nautical leagues of 20 to a
degree ; the 29* will equal 580 leagues, and each minute being equiva-
lent to one third of a league or nautical mile, the45' v/ill equal 15 leagues,
and the total refult will be 595 marine leagues.

For the preceding operation may be fubftituted a more exaft calcu-
lation. For this purpofe we muft folve the fpherical triangle j^PL
(fig. 8.) formed by the meridians jIP PL pafling through the points
^ and L whofe diftance is required, and by the arc jiL which joins
them in-this triangle ; the fides ^P, PL are known ; for they are the
co-latitudes or distances of j1 and L from the pole P, and the angle
^PL is their difference of longitude ; by the rules of fpherical trigono-
metry the arc y^Z, will be found in degrees and minutes, which may be
converted into linear meafure as above. If ^ and L are fituatcd ia
different hemifpheres, one of the polar diftances will be greater than 90*
by the latitude of one, the points of Carthagena weftward of Paris, as
k is ufually jiven in marine charts.

..•.-.,^; -^i^ -.-v ■■■;''-" '■■■^ '■--*.*** »-"■ The

xzxu

INTRODUCTION.

il ?l

The bay of Otallipiha, in the ifland of Otaheite, has been determined
by navigators to be in longitude 151** 55' 45" weft of the meridian of
Paris ; the geographical longitude is found as follows : ^

360 00 00

^5t 55 45

The difference 208 4 15 is the longitude required.

When longitudes are reckoned from two different meridians, and
diftinguifhed into eaft and weft, it becomes neceffary to "notice on
which fide the meridian is fituated to which the required longitudes are
to be referred, then the difference of longitude of all the longitudes of
the fame denomination with this fide arc to be fubtra£ted, and thofe of
a contrary denomination added.

Example. — The meridian of the obfervatory of Paris being 2* 2af eaft
of that of Greenwich, all the longitudes eaftward of Greenwich muft
be diminiftied to be reduced to the meridian of Paris, and thofe longi-
tudes which are weft mull be augmented by that quantity. Thus the
longitude of the Cape of Good Hope being 18° 23' 15" eaft of the me-
ridian of Greenwich becomes 16° 3' 15" ealt of Paris* On the contrary
the bay of Otallipiha, placed by Englifli navigators 149" 35' 45" weft
of the meridian of Greenwich, becomes 151" 55' 45" when referred to
that of Paris.

There is a cafe wHich lometimes gives rife to a little difficulty, that
is, when the place to be reduced lies between the two meridians or
their oppofites, the place being thus eaft with refpe6l to the one and
weft with refpeft to the other : for inftance, in the firft cafes the dif-
ference of the meridians muft not be fubtrafted from the longitude to
be reduced, but the contrary which changes the denomination.

In the other cafe the number which refults from the addition of the
difference of longitude to the longitude reckoned from the meridian
intended to be changed exceeding 1 80*, will be beyond the oppofite
meridian of the place to which it is referred, it muft therefore be taken
from 360, and confequently its denomination changed.

Example. Dover being i. 18. 30. eaft of Greenwich, this fubtratStion
muft be mado:

2® 20'
I* 18' 30"

The difference i" i' 30" is the longitude of Dover weft of the
meridian of Paris.

Turtle JJlandy in the Pacific ocean, is placed by the Englifh in
'77* 57' ^^^ longitude ; this, added to 2° 20' equals, 180" 17'.

When the places whofe diftance is required are fituated on the fame
meridian, nothing is more requifite than to convert their difference cf
latitude into linear mcafure. The latitude of a place is found on a
globe by meafuring the fiiortcft diftance of the place from the equator^
or from a known parallel of latitude, and referring it to the graduated
meridian, the number of degrees intercepted on this arc is that whicb
muft be added or fubtraded from the latitude of this parallel, to obtain
the latitude of the place propofed.

48. But the difference of longitude of two points fituated on the fame
parallel are by no means the meafure of their diftance, except when
they are on the equator itfelf j for thefe paralleh being leffer circles,
wbefe radii dtminini as they approach the poles, their degrees have not

the

INTRODUCTION.

sxxut

of the
rlifh in

lie fame

ence of

on 3

juator*

Iduated
whicK
obtain

j»

|e fame

when

:ircle8(

live not

the

^nc fame value as thofe of a great circle. And a remark wliicli is fome-
tiriics omitted fliould be made, that tlie abfolute length of thefc arcs is
Jiot lI.c fhorteft diftance between their extreme points, through which
*i grest circle muft always be conceived to pafs ; for the radius of the
paiailel being fhorter than that of the great circle, its arc is more con-
vex, and its curvature greater than thac of a great circle paffing through
its extremities, and confequently it is longer.

In following conltantly the fame alinement, it is impofiible to describe
aiiy other than a great circle of a fphere, becaufe the fhorteil line in this
j;ale is taken from one point to another.

Notwithftanding the degrees are different on different parallels, yet
the abfolute length of the degree on any given parallel is eafily con-
-cluded from the known value of the meridional degree ; for the degrees
of thefe circles are proportional to their radii, and the radii of the
equator and its parallels are perpendiculars let fail from the different
points of th? meridian upon the diameter of the circle as reprefented
in (lig. 8.) by the lines EC, HK ; therefore, if the radius EC be taken
as the meafure of a degree on the equator, and it be divided into twenty
parts', or murine leagues, the number of parts which the radius HK.
contains will be the value of the degree of the parallel LM.

Hence it follows, that to determine the length r f the degree for ^ ach
parallel, it will be fufficient to defcribe a qua.icroi a circle round
tipon a line ECy taken to rcpreft nt the equatorial degree, to divide
this quadrant into degrees, and to draw perpendiculars f;om t -ch point
of divifion to the radius CP, thefo lines will be n ipeftivc lengths o-
the degrees at the points to which they correfpond, or to every deg: »'.
of latitude.

The line II K being the fine of the arc P//, and the coflne oi the
arc EH, of which one meafuros the diitance of the paral' ^ 7 TIf from
the pole, and the other the latitude of the parallel, it h evid >nt that,
taking for unity the degree at the equator, the degree A any parallel
whatever will be the cufme of the latitude as given by the trigonometri-
cal tables.

The latitude of Paris being 48° 50', and the cofine of this angle
0.684 of the radius, the degree of longitude is found by multiplying
this number by 20 marine leagues, which will give 13.16 leicgues, which
ja fpace that mull be taken on this parallel, to produce a change of one
degree of longitude. At 60'^ of latitude the degree of longitude
is only 10 leagues, becaufe the cofine of 60° is equal to the radius.

49. The meridian being a great circle, it will be dcfcribed on the
earth by following the diredion of a meridian hne traced in any place
whatever, and every 20 leagues defcribe.l o' this line will produce a
change of ov.e degree of latitude ; but a i.;... v. -l to the equator will
not be defcnbed by following a direction perpendicular to the meridian
on the eaft and v/eil line ; for this alineilient would determine a plane
perpendicular to the meridian, and which '.ontinually deviates from the
parallel as it recedes from their common origin : this is fliewn in fig. 19,
where PEP reprefeuts a meridian, E-Jl t'.:e equator, IILK a parallel,
and HIK the great circle perpendicular to the meridian 2A. H. It may
be obferved likewife, that v}\ th.c great circles perpendicular to the fime
meridian meet in two oppolitc points / 7', which are the poles of this
meridian ; thefe great «;ircles, therefore, continually approach to each
other, and it is only in a very fmall fpace on each fide the meridian
PEPt that thefe circles lEI', IHP can be confidered as ])arallc}, and
for the fame reafon it is only in a very fmall fpace that the call and well

d lines,

xrfxiv

INTRODUCTION.

lines, or pei-pcndlculars to the meridian, can be confidered as a parallel
to each other.

The great circle JHK^ perpendicular to the meridian PEP, cuts the
other meridian P' LP in angles which are different for each ; but the
narallel HLQ^ cuts them all at right angles. Hence, hi proceeding
from the point H to the point L on the parallel, it is neceflary to de-
fle6l at every inftant from the fir ft direftion, to keep at right angles to
the different meridians which are fucceflively pafTed over, and which all
tend to the pole P. It is only, therefore, by the affiftance of a com-
pafs, or by fome fimilar but more exadl method of determining the po-
rtion of the meridian, that we can, by continuai^j- advancing in a direc-
tion d\ie eaft or weft, maintain always the fame diflance from the
equator, and proceed upon the fame parallel.

And in general when, by means of a compafs, we follow a direc-
tion which,cuts all the meridians at the fame angle, that is, when we
keep on the fame rumb, the alincment is changed at every point, to
preferve a conftant angle with the new meridian which converges with
the preceding ; hence a fort of fpiral line is defcribed, called a
loxodrome, and of which a more particular account will be given
in the method of conftrufting charts for the purpofes of navigation,

50. Tc meafure commodioufly the extent of any region traced upon
the globe, we may conceive Mts furfacc divided into quadrilateral
figures by meridians, and their parallels drawn cither to every 10° or 5%
that is, generally into portions fufficicntly fmall that any irregular
fpace may be compared without difUcuIty with the quadrilateral figure
which contains it. Tive fuperficial extent of each quadrilateral, con-
tained by two meridians and two parallels, is found by firfl determining
that of the entire zone contained by the two parallels, and this will be
to the area of the whole fphcrc as the diftancc of the parallels which
terminate it is to the diameter ; which diflaiue coiivfponds on the dia-
meter to the difference of the fines of the latitudes of each parallel, a»
appears in fig. 8, where the line CK n-prefents the difference between
€P and KP.

For example. For the zone contained by the parallels 48' and 49%
and in which Paris and its environs is fituateJ.

The fine of ^9° =1 0,75^
48 = 0,743.

Difference

0,012

its half, 0,006, indicates that this zone contains i^^, or t-((t of the
total furface of the globe, and this being cAimated at 16,501,200
fquare leagues, the above zone may be tiUmated at 99,007 fquare
leagues.

As to the magnitude of this zone contained between two given meri-
dians, it evidently bears the fame proportion to the whole quantity as
the difference of longitude to the whole circumference ; the extent^
therefore, of a quadrilateral ctMitaincd by one degree in the longi-
tude of Paris, is the 360th part of 99,007, or about a; 5 fquare
leagnen.

A fimilar calculation being madr for n auadrilateral containing one
degree of longitude for every dcgne of latitude from the equator
to the pole, will give a table of refults, by means of which the ex-
tent of any r 'on may cafily be computed, eitlwr on a globe or map.

51. To pla.. a globe conveniently, and that it may (erve for many
mK'fuI purpo8CB| iu axi» is usually fixed in a diameter tu a graduated

circle

INTRODUCTION.

XSxV

circle of brafs, and which reprefents the plane of any celeftial meridian
whatever : this circle pafTes through another fixed to the fuppovt of
the gIobe> called the horizon, becaufe the axis of the globe admitting
of every poffible inclination with refpeft to this circle, it may be thus
made to reprefent univerfally the horizon of any given place. The
poles may thus be fet at any elevation above the horizon, and the globe
turned on its axis independently of the mefidian» which always remains
fixed ; the axis of the globe carries an index, which is adapted to a dial
divided into 24 parts or hours, and to the whole is fometimes added A
compafs, to place it in the direftion of the meridian.

To facilitate the meafuring of the diftance of one point from another^
a thin moveable arc is added, called a quadrant of altitude, and which
may eafily be applied in any direction, and being tht arc of & great
circle, it meafures, on its graduated limb, the fhorteft diftance between
any two points to which it is applied. When the upper point is fixed iii
the zenith, the lower coincides with the horizon, and it thert tnarks the
diitance from the horizon of every point through which it paffes,
or the altitude of any ftar that may be at the time vertical to that
point.

52. The following are the moft ufeful problems that may be folved
by thefe inftrnmcnts :

1 . The latitude of any place is found by bringing it under the
brazen meridian, whofe graduated edge will indicate the dillance from
the equator.

2. The longitude of a place is found byobferving the point on the
equator interfered by th-: meridian which pafles throMgh it.

3. And reciprocally the pofition of a place is found, when its latitude
iind longitude is given by bringing the point of the equator correfpond-
inff to the longitude under the meridian, where the given latitude will
indicate the required place.

4. The hour reckoned in one place, at the moment of noon at any
other, is found by bringing the latter under the meridian, and placing
the index of the dial at 1 2 ; then turning the globe till the other place
h brought under the meridian, the index of the dial will mark the time
required : the time will be afternoon., if the globe be turned towards
the call ; and before noon, \\ tunu-d towards tTie weft.

53. The length of the loiigell day for every place in either hemif-
phcre (for initance the norlhcni) is found by elevating the meridian W
fuch -.1 manner that the ardic circle may j'.ill become a tangent to the
hori/.ou, the horizon will then reprefent the circle of illumination } then»
if the place .••eqnired be brought to the meridiiin, and tl>e hour index

f)lact-d at 12, the globe beintr turned round till the place comes to the
lorizon, the index will nr.irk the time at which the point pafles from
the enlightened into tlie obfcure hemilphcre, or tl>e time of lunfet: the
number of hours will !»e half the length of the day required.

By pljcing the pole neairr to the horizon, this circle takes the po-
fition of the circle of illununation : for periods precedtng the foHliccs^
and the length <jf the days for their refpctliw periods, will be indicated
as before.

It may be farther remarked, that, in this pofition of the globe, all
the points which are filualcd at the fame time on the wellward part of
the horizon are thofc which, pafling at once from the obfcure into the
enlightened hmiifphere, fee the tun rife at the fame inftant of time
and it pafll-s the meridian to all thofc places fituated on the meridian4
'I'he cardinal points» with their fubdivifiouSi arc ufually placed oa
• da globei|

XXXVI

INTRODUCTION.

globes, and the pofition of any place with refp?<ft to tne fun at ilic
moment of its rifmgor fetting, by obferving at what point of the hori-
3Son the place propofed pafles from the obfcure to the enlightened
hen»ifphere, and vke versa : the oppofite indications will fliew the fitu-
ation of the fun relative to the meridian of the place propofed.

This is not, however, the moll ufnal way o^ folving thefe problems
on the globe; it is moft ufual to reprefent each particular cafe fcparatcly ;
but this method feems to me prt- icrable, becaufe it is more general, and
becaufeitoffersaphyfical reprcA-ntation of wliathas hcen faid (No. 15.).
It will be fufliciont to place a glo'je in obfcurity, and to illuminate one
hemifphere by a ftrong light placed at a coiifideraLle diftance, and the
phenomena will be rendered apparent which the fun produces during a
revolution of the earth relatively to the different pofitions which its axis
takes with refped t to the fun.

And generally, the declination of a ftar being known, if the pole
of the fame denomination be elevated above the liori/.on by a quantity
rqual to that declination, this circle will then divide the heavens into
two parts, to one of which tiie liar is vifible, while invifible to the
other. The above method, thuM-efore, may be employed to determine
the places to which a ftar given in pofition is vifible at any given
inltant.

54. The diftance between any two points on the globe is meafured-
by bringing one of them to the meridian, and plr.clng the center on
which the quadrant of altitude turns dirccily over it ; then turning the
quadrant of altitude round till it pafFes through the other point, and the
degrees intercepted on the arc will be the diftance required.

If the dircftiou or azimuth which one point makes with the other be
required, one of them muft be brought into the zenith or pole of the
horizon; that is, the globe muft !)e rettified for that point, or the pole
elevated to the latitude of the place ; the liorizon of the lylobe will then
reprefent the hocizon of the place : this being done, and tlie quadrant
of altitude adiiilKd in the manner above defcribcd, the number of de-
grees intercepti'd on the horizon by tiie quadrant of altitude, and the
north or foulh point of t!ie horizon, is the azimuth required, wliich is
the angle v.-hie'i a great circle pafling through tlie given points makes
with the nifridun.

55. The problem (53) might be folvcd for any particular pla<^e, by
fubftituting the rational hori/on for the cirele of illumination. For
this purpofe the globe muft be redifud for tlte l.itilude of the place,
which muft be broug^.t to the meridian, and the hour index fct to J2. j
then the point muft be marked which is diirdly under the degree of
the meridian correlponding 10 the declination of the fun ; this point ii
then to be bro<.i(<la to the horizon, and tiie number of hours marked
on the dial will flu-w the time between noon and funfet ; for it is cvi
dent that a po' ' at a certain diilance from the equator will defcribe a
circle which will leprefciii the fun's path at the time it has a iimiiur
declination.

And by the fame method may he found the time which clapfes be-
tween the fifing of any liar and its meridian p;ilfage, by comparing it
with a point whofe diftance from the equator is equal to the dvclinatiou
•f the liar.

c6. The difllcuhy of executing globes large enough to fliew the de-
tails of geography, niul the cmbarrHffment occafioned by their ufe,
have taught the necelliiy of reprefentiug on a plane furface the re-
ipw^tive iiUation of different vbjedi on the globe uf the earth,

Curved

INTRODUCTION.

xxxva

the tie*

leir ufc,

the rc-

Cui'ved

Curved furfaces, as compared to plane, are divided into two claflfes ;
fame, like thofe of cones and cylinders, being capable of e^^tenfio:; on
a plane, without rent or told, whence they are called developable fur-
/aces ; while others, like thofe of a fpliere and ipheroids, are quite
incapable of this exteufion. If the eiisth had been ccnprifed in the
lirft clafs, a fimple developemcnt, of ealy execuiiuu, would have pre-
fcnted maps, in which tlic diilciiiceG of the places, and tiie refpe<5ivc
extent of the jj.; i.ries would have been prelevvcd, fiich as they arc
in nature ; but "'.liappily the earth is a fpltoroid, and its furface can
jiever exactly coincide with a plane : whence arifes the impoffibfclity of
pn ferving at the fame time, on a map, the natural relationsi between
the extent of the countries, the diltances of places, aud the llrict ic-
fcmblaiice of configuration. We are therefore obliged to have reconife
to different conftruAions, in order to reprefent, at Icalt. in an ap-
proximate manner, each of thefe relations.

Thefe conftrudions have been called projcSions ; a name applied iu
general to drawings, of which the object js to reprefent, on a plane
lurfacc, -the dimei.fions of fpacc and bodies. They are of two forts,
fmne being peripciitive rcprefentations of the globe, or parts of its
furface taken from different points of view, and upon diiTtreut plane*
confidcred as pictures ; whil..' the others arc only Jdndi of develcpc-
ments, fabjetl to the laws of approximation, and coniiaed to the re-
lations which are intei.ded to be prcfervtd. To this latter kind belong
the large map of France, and v'le fea charts ia daily nfe.

Lambert, and after him Euler and Lagrange, have rednced the
theory of thefe two kinds of piojeclions to tiie general principle of the
transformation of circular coordinates*, affumed from the fphere,
namely, meridians and parallels, into other ilraight or curved lines
traced on a plane, and depending upon conditions relative to the defired
qualities of the map.

57. The choice of the point of view, and ef the plane of the piilui-e
being made the projection, may be conllrutted for each particular ob-
jeA, according to the rules of common perfjjective, here rcauced to dc*
tcnninc on the pidure the point froui which the vifual ray fliail reach
the objctl ; but the number of operations which mull be made, if each
point of the country meant to be repreleu^ed were conhdercd feparatety,
being too confiderahle, it is thought fufficitnt to conllruct the hnes
which are the peripeCtives of the meridians and p u-allC-Is, and which, by
their junctions, determine all the geographical petitions.

Setting alide the oblate form of our globe, and confidoring it as a
fpherical, it may be perceived that the whole of the vifual rays, ex-
tended to all the points of any ciicle formed on the globe, conftitute a
cone, of which the feCtion, in the plane of the pidiure, can only be
one of the curves of tiie feeond degree, and even in lome cafes a llraight
line. It would appear that the lull decifions, in the choice of ll»c
point of view, were dii^tated by the confuleration of the confequent
facility in the coniiruttiou of the map ; and that, from the time of
Ptolemy, it had been obfervcd that in making the plane or picture pufs
by the centre of the fplu-re, and placing the pouit of view ut the ex-
tremity of the radius, drawn perpendicularly on that plane, a'l thefe
circles of the globe were repreiented by other circles, of wliich the c(»n-
ilruclion was ealy, and which interfected each othor in the map, utuler
the fiim^ angles as upon the fphere, fo that the fpherical rectungular

', ' • Thiiiga arranjed an J tJepeniknt on the lame oider.
t . U 3 quaJri.

xxxviii

INTRODUCTION.

quadrilaterals, comprehended between the meridians and the parallels*
were reprelented by curvilinear quadrilaterals, alfo reftangular *. It
has fince been proved that the infinitely fmall portions of the globe
aifume in this projeftion their natural figure, but it muft be obferved,
that this fimilitude only takes place in very fmall fpaces. Such are the
conventions which have given rife io iht Jiereographic projeSliont and fuch
are its principal propertiesf .

It is more commonly employed to reprefent an entire hemifphere ; and
yrhen two are joined they conftitute a map of the world When thofe
are cbofen which are circumfcribed by the firft meridian, the picture is.
in this cafe, the plane of the meridian, and the eye is placed in the pole
of that circle. It is fufficient to fee a map of this kind to comprehend
^hat the quadrilaterals, comprifed between two confecutive meridians
and parallels, augment in extent in proceeding from the centre to the
circumference, and that in a very confiderable degree. It'is perceived,
befxdes, that this enlargement refults from the obliquity of the vifual
rays, when they depart from that which is perpendicular to the pifture,
and which may be called the optical axis. Hence it follows that the
parts towards the borders of the hemifphere have a far more confiderable
Extent than thofe towards the centre ; and that miilakes will arife if
they be referred to the latter :j:.

Maps of the world have the further inconvenience of feparating the
adjacent parts of the globe, and of only offering in an exa£t manner the
ifefpeftive fituation and the configuration of the countries towards the
xniddle of the map. This defeat is remedied in Polar and Horizontal
Projedions s the firft, reprefenting the hem'ifpheres feparated by the
equator, difplay with fufficient exaftnefs the regions around the poles j
while the fecond prefent the hemifphercs above and below the horizon
of the place to which they refer, and are the moft proper for the
knowledge of the furrounding regions, or their antipodes, whence they
merit par' icular attention.

58. I ftiall therefore give the demonftration of the fundamental pro-
perties of thefe proje&ions, whence 1 fhail deduce the procefs of their
conftruftion. The eye being fuppofed at 0, fig. 20, the plane ADBEy
drawn through the centre C of the fphere, perpendicular to the radiui
0(7, is the plane of projtAion. Any circle G'///, traced upon the
furface of the fphere, determines the cone OGIHy of which the inter-
fe<Slion glhy with the plane JiDBEy is the projeftion of the propofed
Circle. Now the plane AFBOy drjjwn by the line OF^ and by the
centre K of the circle GIH^ cutting at right angles the planes GIH
and ADBEt prefents the means of knowing the angles which thefe
planes make with the fides of the cone OG and 07/ ; and it will be
seen that the angle OGH1 of which the fummit is at the circumference,
having for mcafUre the half of the arc OBHy is equal to the angle
Ohgy which, being placed bi'twecn the centre and the circumference,
has for its meafure the half of the fum of the arcs HB and AO \
befides, the angle being common to the two triangles OGH and
Oght it follows that the angleS 0//G, Ogh are eqnal, whence the
cone QGIH is cut in an antiparallel dirc(!:tion by the plane ADBE%
^heoce the fedUoo ^1^ is a circle.

• Ptolomtei PUnirpharium, etc. AWiis Venetii.', 1558.

•f The word ii derived from the Greek, meaning the art of dr.twing the form of
foli4*on a plane.

I SooM geusrapiiers begin with the coruers, and w 01k tcwaxdt the centre.

Thii

INTRODUCTION.

xxxiic

This laft, which is the projeftion of the circle GIHt will be de-
termined when we know its fize, and the pofition of its diameter, and
lo obtain them it is fufficient to conftruA in the plane AOBF the
triangle GOHt in accord with which the plane meets the cone
OGIHy the line ABt which then reprcfents the plane of projedlion, inter-
fefting the triangle 00 H, in the diameter ^^ of the projection required.
59. This being eftablifhed, in order to conftruft a map of the world
on the plane of the firft meridian, the point of view being placed in the
centre of the hemifphere, oppofite to that which is to be reprefented,
will be at the interfection of the equator and meridian, which divides
this^laft hemifphere into two equal parts. Firft is confidered the fec-
tion of the globe made by the plane of the equator jiDBE, fig. 21.
The line AjSt the common fe<ftion of that plane and of the pifture on
the projection, reprefents the equator ; the poiiitb M and N mark two
points of the divilion made on this circle by the meridians ; the eye is
then at i), and the vifual rays MD and ND, drawn to the points of
divifion M and A'', give upon AB, at m and //, the perfpcdlives or pro-
jections of thefe points ; the three equal arcs jiM, MN, NE are then
rcprefentcd by the parts y.' m, m tit n Cy vifibly unequal.

In drawing through the point M' diametrically oppofite to tlie point
Mt a vifual ray M'D^ vft (hall finifli the angle MDM't formed by the
two oppofite fides of the cone, palfing by the circumference which
comprehends the meridian drawn to the point M, and its oppofite, and
prolonging the ilraight lines AB and M'D till they meet at m', the
interval ffiffj' will be the diameter of the projedlion of the meridian
pafling through the point M.

If it be now conceived that tlie circle ADBE turns around the
diameter AB^ it may be brought on the plane of the firft meridian.
The line DE will then become the axis, the points E and D will be
the poles, and the lines MD^ M'D, not having changed their fituatioa
with regard to AB^ if there be defcribed on min\ as diameter, an arc
of a circle EtnDt it will be tlie projection of a meridian diftant front
the former by an arc equal to AM.

To conftruCt the projections of the parallels to the equator, we muft

eonfider the feCtion of the globe made by the plane of the meridian

pafling through the fight, and perpendicular to the firft meridian.

We may ftill ufe fig. 21, and conceive that the plane of the firft

meridian ADBE has turned around the axis of the poles DE^ to

aflume a fituation perpendicular to its firiV. The point B will then

be the fpot occupied by tlie eye, the axis Eli will be the projection

of the middle meridian, the points M^ A% taken on this meridian, will

belong to the parallels, whofe latitudes are AM^ AN ; in fine, the

vifual rays BMf BN> will giyc at r and s the projections pf the points

^and N.

In afl'ur

a point

vilual ray

will be the diameter of the projection of thi^ parallel. If, therefore,
the circle ADBE be brought to the pofition of the firft meridian in
this motion around the line DE, the right lines BN, BN', will not
change their rcfpeCtive fitiiations | and there may be defcribed on / s\
as a diameter, the arc Ns N', which will be the projection of the parallel
pafling at the latitude AN.

60. All this conftruCtion, which may be effeC^ed on one figure, is
tonly intended to ^nd the graduation of the diameter ^Bj which r^pre-

leiitc

3tl

INTRODUCTION.

fents the equator, and that of the axis ED, which is alfo the meridiswi
of the middle of the map ; for the points m and «, combined with th^
poles, give three points of each meridian, and there are alfo three fov
the parallels in combining the tv/o extremities N and A^' with the point
s determined on the diameter DE.

The lines C«, Cm are eafily calculated in the reftilinear triangles
DCn, DCm, reilangular at Cy whence we know the common ,fid,e
CD, and the angles CDn, and CDm, meafiued by the halves of the
arcs NE and ME^ which are the complements of the longitude of the
meridians.

The triangles BCr, and BCs, give in like manner the diftancbs
Cr and Cs, which form the graduation of the meridian in the raiddlei
of the map.

6i . The conftnidlion of the polar pro] cBlon confifts in the determinatioo
of the degrees of the meridian, and 'fig. 22. indicates the operation.
The circle ADBE reprefenrs a meridian upon which the eye is at D
at one of the poles, and whofo projeftion is the diameter AB : the arcs
AM, MN, NE, are projeded upon that line in Am, m «, « C, by tjic
vifual rays DM, DN. It may be then conceived that the phlne
ADBE, turning round AB, may apply itfelf on the equator ; and
from the centre C, with the radii 6'//, Cm, circles are dcfcribcd, which
ai'e the projeftions of the parallels to the equator, palling by latitudes
equal to the arcs y/iV and ^i1/. As to the meridians, as their planes
mtcrfedl each other according to the axis of the poles, which is at the
fame time the optical axis, their projeftions are the radii CjM, CN, cor-
refponding with the longitudes AM, AN.

62. In the hort%on!al projsBion, the circle ADBE, fig. 23, indicate*
the meridian of the place propofcd, which divides its horizon into two
equal parts. The eye being always af D, the vifual rays DP, DN,
DN', drawn to the fuperior pole P, antl to the extremities A'' and A"
of wliatever pai-allel, mark upon AB, which is the projeftion of the
femicircle y^^i?, the projeftion ^ of the pole, and the diameter tin''
of the parallel Tlie equator is obtained in the fame manner, FF'-
denoting its diameter, while ff is that of its projcdtion. This pr(v-
jeftion, and that of the parallel, may be traced in conceiving tluit t!ic
circle ADBE is*turned around the diameter y/Zf, to fall ou the hori-
zon ; the equator being the arc EfD, and the parallel being tlic
circle « «'.

To determine the projeftions of tlie meridians, firft is fought that
of the inferior pole P', wliich the vifual ray DP being prolonged, gives
at p'. Conceiving then the circle ADBE to be applied anew ou the
horizon, there is dofcribed on the diameter />/»' a circle which riprefcnts
the proje6lion cf the meridian perpendicular to that of the place. As
they muft all pafs throtigh the points /',/»'» the pro);:dtion3 of the
meridians will have their centres in the line de perpendiciihir upon the
middle of pp' { and to finilli tlieir determination, it is fiifficient to find
a third point, which may be done in many ways. Tiiat whicl: 1 am
about to give refts upon a conllrudlion which agrees with all fimilar
determinations, and which confids in referring or projediing tlie different
points of the equator upon the hori/on, by right lineu perpendicular to
the plane of the latter.

For this purpofe, I affume an arc BL, equal to the longitude of
the propofcd point of the equator, and lay down GL perpendicular to
DE, then bring GL to CF from C to /,", and drawing L"L' parallel
to DE, the point L' of the intcrfcdlion of the liuca L'L" and GL i»

the

INTRODUCTION.

13 pnv-
i;;t tiie
lioii-
ig tliv;

bt tliat
giv(<3
)u the
ixfcnts
As
of tlic
ion the
to fi'.xj

1 1 iUU

fimilai"
iffcrcnt
ular to

ucle of
liar to
jarallcl
GL\*
the

tlie projc(!^Ion vequlred, or the foot of the perpendicular let down froin
the point of the equator, of which the longitude is equal to BL on
jthe horizontal plane *.

This being done, if we obferve that the plane, pafling through the
fi T-ht and the propofed point of the equator, being drawn by the line
CD, perpendicular to the plane of the horizon, neceffarily contains
the perpendicular let down from that point at L', it will be feen that
its interf'e6tion with the horizontal plane is the line CL' drawn by the
centre of the horizon. This right line will determine at / on the arc
pf the circle EJD, which is the ilereographic projeftion of the equator,
the projeftion of the point propofed. In repeating this conftniftion,
that of the equator may be ealily gra4uated, conformably to the laws of
the pro'iedlion.

It will alfo be remarked, that the line CO is the projeftion of the
circle of altitudes (fcft. 51.) drawn through the fpot which occupies
the centre of the map, and by the. propofed point of the equator,
fince the planes of the circles ot altitude palling by the line DE necef-
farily haVe for pvojedlions, lines drawn by the centre C of the map.

63. The inequality of the fpaccs of the graduation of the Ilereo-
graphic projetlion does not, in general, permit the application of a
retSilinear fcale to compare the refpeftive diftances of places, diilances
which are mcafurcd according to an arc of the groat circle wliich joins
f hefe places two and two ; but we may always, by mc'.ms of the gra-
duation itfelf, meafure the diftance between the centre of ihe map and
any one of its points ; and we may, in confeqlicnce, find upon a hori-
zontal projeftion, referred to Pans, for example, the diftance from this
pity to all the other points of the globe. This property is the con-
fequence of a projection in which all the great circles which pafs by
the centre of the map, interfering each other according to the optical
;ixis, have for their perfp( ftivcs right lines drawn by that centre, and
admit a graduation fimilar to that which is marked upon the equator
pf maps of the world conllrueted on the plane of the meridian.

In placnig the point of view at the centre of the fphere, and afTum-
ing for the pifture a plane tangent to its furface, there is obtained a
pcrfpeftive of the globe, in which all the great circles are reprefented
by right lines. It alters like the preceding, and Itill, in a greater
degree, the extent of the countries in proportion as they are diftant
from the centre of the map ; nor can it even rcprefent an entire
jiemifphere, becaufc the vifual rays, drawn by the circumference which
terminates this hemifplicre, are parallel to the plane of the pifture ;
but it may be very uleful for portions of fmall extent, and admits a
kind of fcale of which the conftruftion is not difficult. It is doubtlefs
for this rcafon that Prony propofed its ufe in furvcying lands. This
projeftion is further remarkable, as it is employed in making fun dials.

It will not be difficult to modify in this cafe the procedures which I
have already eivcn for the conftrutlion of meridional, polar, and hori-
zontal projeAions. There muil be drawn from the point C of the
figure cited in thefe articles, the vifual rays which determine the fec-
tion made in the cones, perpendicularly to the circles which arc to be

•»TIiis prorofs will he fvidcnt by its defcription .ilone to readers who have fludied iht
(irometry of planes and rurfacet; they will perceive th.it the angle FCB is that which formi
the plane of the equator witli the horiion ; and that in conlequcnce wo have, in order to
C'niftrud the |)ointi tif the Krft, its common fei'-lion DF. with the ItCvUd, and the angle
which they comprehtr.d. Sec Com^ltmftif ite^ EUmcm «/c (Jnmttric,

reprcfcDtcd

xlii

INTRODUCTION.

reprefented, and the plane muft be affumed parallel to that which paffei
by the centre and is tangent to the circle ADBR, It will then be feen
that, in the projeftion on the plane of the firft meridian, the meridian*
will be ftraight lines, perpendicular to the equator, which will alfo be
a right line ; and the parallels to the equator will be hyperbolas. In
the polar projedlion the meridians will be ftraight lines, drawn from
the centre of the map, and the parallels to the equator circles having
their centie at that point: in fine, in the horizontal projedion the
meridians will be right lines drawn through the projeftion of the
fuperior pole. The parallel of the place to which the projedlion is
referred will be reprefented by a parabola, thofe which are nearer the
pole by ellipfes, and the others on each fide of the equator by hy-
perbolas.

64. If we conceive the point of view carried to an infinite diftance
from the pi6ture, the vifual rays will become parallel among them-
felves ; and fuppofing them then perpendicular to the plane, we fhall
have the Orthographic ProjeSlotiy in which the meridians and parallels
are in general reprefented by ellipfes, excepting in the polar projeftion,
where the meridians are right lines, and the parallels concentric circles.
The whole of the vifual rays, direfted to the different points of the
circle to be reprefented, then forms a cylinder, of which the axis is
parallel to the line marked CO, fig. 20. To form an idea of this it is
lufficient to infped fig. 24, analogous to fig. 21 ; the vifual rays Mm,
Nn drawn by the different points of the circle ADBE, confidered as,
the equator, will determine on its diamieter, the graduation conformably
to the laws of the projeAion. The fpace m m' comprifed between the
two perpendiculars Mm, M' m', led from the two oppofite points of
the meridian, is the lefTer axis of the ellipfis, which this circle has for
,its projeftion j and the great axis is the diameter of the fphere, or of
the firft meridian which remains circular. The parallels to the equator,
having their planes perpendicular to that of the firft meridian, are there
reprefented by their diameters, as NN'. After the manner in which
I have modified the defign of the meridional proje£lion, it is eafy to
find the changes which that of the two others muft undergo.

A very fimple fkctch will inftantly difplay the orthographic pro-
je£lion of any place on the plane of the meridian, and its diftance per-
pendicular to that plane. Having drawn upon the plane of the firft
meridian ADBE, by the latitude AN of the place propofed, the
diameter A^A^' of its parallel, the circle is defcribed, and we take the
arc NL equal to the longitude, then drop upon NN' the perpendicular
JLl, the point / being the orthographic projeAion of the place, while
X/ is its diftance on the plane of the meridian. The fame ficetch
executed for another point alfo giving its projedlion, it is eafy to find
the right line acrofs the globe which iniQ^ediately joins thcfe two^
places.

The operation Is Amplified when prbje^ed on the plane of the equa-
for. There is formed the angle ACB, fig. 25, equal to the difference
of longitude of the places propofed ; the arcs AM and BN are affumed
as equal to their refpe^tive latitudes ; the right lines Mm and Nn, per*
pendicular on AC and BC, give the projections m and n of thefe places,^
%vhile m R is that of their diftance. If then you ralfe on m a the per-
pendiculars mM" tiN", refped^ively equal to the right lines Mm, Nn,
and draw M" N", this right lie will be the chord of the arc of th«
^reat circle ^ompiifcd within the tjwo places propofed { and in carrying;

INTRODUCTION.

xliil

)hic pro-
ince per-
the firft
fed, the
take the
:udicular
while
ilcetch
yr to find
cfe two

it to the meridian divided into degrees, we (hall obtain, as in feflion 47,
the meafure of the (horteft road from the one point to the other.

If the point N was in the hemifphere oppofite to the pofition of the
point M, it muft be conftrufted at N' beneath BC, its projedlion on
the plane of the meridian being ftill « ; but y /e mull carry the per-
pendicular N'n beneath the right line m n, and the fliorteft redtilinear
diftance from the two propofea points will then be M" N'".

6s- The orthographic projection has, with regard to fpaces, the
contrary defeft from the preceding, as it diminilhes them from the
centre to the circumference, on account of the obliquity under which
the lateral parts of the fphere are prefented to its diametral plan. La
Kire thence concluded, that in prolonging the optical axis out of the
fphere, the plane or pidlure Hill pafling by the centre, there exilled on
that axis a point where the inequality oi fpaces was the fmalleft poilible j
for it is evident, that when the point of view is at fuch a diftance,
that the obliquity of the rays which tends to enlarge the fpaces, becom<*
ing fmaller, may be compenfated by that of the proje6ted furfaces which
tends todiminifh them, and their increafe muft be changed into decreale.
There cannot be abfolute equality in all, becaufe the law of their varia-
tion depends on their particular fituation ; but at the limit which we
have afllgned, their differences are fufficiently fmall to be negledled in
a general map.

La Hire * has afTumcd the point of view of his projection, at th*
diftance from tlie fphere equal to the fine of forty-five degrees. Fig. 26.
ihews how the graduation of the equator is obtained, when the pro-
jection is made on the plane of the meridian, placing the eye at the
point d, fnch as Dd =r FG, the arc BG being the half of BEt whence
Cg is the half of EC. It might alfo be required to place on the line
DE the point //, fo that^tlie degrees of the equator contiguous to the
point C, or to the meridian of the middle of the map, and to the point
j4, or to the firft meridian, fhould occupy the fame fpace on the dia-
meter jiB ! which is eafily accompliflied by means of the trigono-
metrical formula:, which exprefs the fize of any fpace m n.

I do not know if maps have been conftruAcd on this projection, and
I am furprifed that it fhould not become common, for it appears to me
preferable to the common projection, of maps of the world. It will be
m vain objected, thtit the meridians and the parallels being therein re-
prefented by eUipfes, it muft be more difficult to trace, for it is evident
that the method of the projection muft always be for a fkilful geo-
grapher the fmalleft of the difficulties prefented in the execution of
a map. There are numerous fmiple and convenient methods of drawing
ellipfes through points; and we are often obliged to employ them
for the circular meridians and parallels, placed towards the centre of
maps of the world on the ftereographic projection, becaufe their radius
is too great to be defcribed wiih compafles. The horizontal projec-
tion performed after the principles of La Hire, would be capable of
giving diftances as well as the ftereographic. In fine, I cannot fee
that any property of the ftereographic projection can recompence in
planifpheres the inconveniences of the difproportion thence arifinip
between equal fpaces ; and the error into which a difciple would be
led who wifhed to compare, for example, India with Novaya Zemlia
or the Red Sea with Hudfon's Bay.

arrymg

* Mem. dc TAcad. d«8 Sciences, Z701, p. 260.

66. The

x\W

INTRODUCTION. '

66 The ftereographic projedion is little nfed in particijlar mnps,
and the Germans aluiie have introduced it, particularly Halius, who
cotnpofed the greater part of the maps in tiie Atlas of Homanir, in
much requell towards the middle of the lafl century.' The four parts
of the world, feparatcly reprefented in this proje6lion> are only pov-
tions of a planilphcrc couftrudcd on the like diraenfion, on the plane of
a meridian perpendicular to that which pafle* through the middle of
the map, the eye being placed in the plane of the latter. The excef-
five length of the radii of the circles renders them very difficult to
obfcrve; and the alteration of the fpaces and diftances is not lefa than
in other piojettions of more eafy execution ; whence thefe maps, are
little known in France.

The inequality of the fpaces rnay, however, be diminifhed, as in the
planifpherc, by placing; the point of view out of the globe ; but the
diftancc to which it muft be carried, depending on the extent of coun-
try contained in the map, will diminifh in proportion as this extent bC"
comes fmallor, ai;d may be cafily calculated by comparing the degree
on the mrugins of tlie map with that which is in the middle,

" It will be eafy to peri'ons familiar with gx^onietry and trigonometry,
to deduce fiom fedion 59 and feilion 62 the procedures of the calcu-
lation in order to con ilrucl thefe maps, and to draw the arcs of thf^
circles which they miu'l contain by points, in referrinij them to their
chords or to their tangents ; but thefe details would here pafs- the
bounds which I h;^ve prefcrihcd to this difcourfe.

67. The inod limple of the projections by dcvelopemcnt, is what is
called the Ccuicil Prycciion ; it being, in fac\, natural to compare a
fpherical zone to a tniticated cone, and thence toct»nfl;ru6\ its develope-
ment. The parall-ls become circles, defcribed from a fummit of tlve
eone taken I'S a centre ; and the meridians are right lines fubjetSled to
pafs through that point. It is vifible that the refult will approach tUo
nearer, in proportion as the map flvall embrace lefs extent in latitude.
This pvoji'ftioii may vary in difFercnt ways ; for it may be fuppofed
that the cone h a tanger.t to the middle par.allel of the map, and hi con.*^
fequeiice, exterior ; or that it may be in part infcribed in the fphere»,
that is to fay, formed by the feeants of the meridians. In the firft
cafe, the map will not be p'erfcv^ly oxaft, except on the middle paralleV
which will prcferve in its deve'jpeinent the length which it rtally pof-
fellVs on the Iplicre ; but the parallels placed above and beneath will
exceed thofe wiiich on the fphere are correfpondent. Murdoch, an
Englifh geometrician, has propofed to fubftitute to the tangent cone,
a cone partly infcribed, and determined by this condition, tlocit the part
of 'tis area compr.'hftuJed in the map, fiould he equivalent to that of the
fpherical zone ti'hich it r.'prffctits.

The whole conilruft^jii of this kind of map rcfts on the determina-
tion of the fummit of the cone, and on the amphtude which the circle
ferving as its bafe mull affuine in its developement.

When the cone is tangent to a point E of the meridian yIP, fig. 27,
its fides will be obtained in prolonging *he tangent of that point till it
fliull meet the axis CPt alfo prolonged ; the line E R, being then the
fide of the cone, and its bafis the circle, havifig Ee for its radius. The
dcvt lopemeut is cffetted by known means, for which the Complanetit da ,
El?neri Je (Jeometrie r.iay be confnltcd.

To fornt^ th;' dcsrrces. of longitude, we muft take the three hundred
and fixtieth part of the arc, defcribed from the fummit R as the centre,

12 wi^H

INTRODUCTION.

-iif.

uith a radius RE, and which reprefents the developemcnt of the pa-
rallel pafling by the point £, then drawing right lines through the di-
vilions of that arc and the fuminit of the cone, we (kill have the meri-
dians, which correfponding with an arc of a greater radius than that of
the parallel, will intercept an angle fmaller than a degree. In order to
procure the degrees of latitude, we muft bear upon one of thefe meri-
dians, beginning at the point E, as well above as beneath, parts equal
to the developtixient of the aics of the tcrreftrial meridian. In fine, we
dcfcribe from the point P, and, by the divilions of the meridian, con-
centric circles which will reprefcnt the parallels.

When the cone ought to be partly infcribed, there is drawn by the
points ji and F^ in which it mull interfeft the meridian, a fecant AF,
of which thejunftion IV , with the axis CP, "ives the point of concourfe
of the right lines which reprefent the meridians, or the fummit of the
cone ; the right lines AR' being its fide, and A a the radius of its bafe.
The fpace A Ft being that which correfponds wiih the arc AEF^
ought to be divided like that arc. By this conftru6tion we take the
i;hord AF for the arc AEFy and the degree of latitude is a little tea
imall, when referred to the degree of longitude on the parallels of the
points A and F ; but the difference is a trifle when the arc of the meri-
dian has little extent. Nevcrthclefs, a perfeA equality may be efta-
blifhed between the degrees of latitude on the map, and thofe of the
meridian of the fphere, by afTuming, inftead of AF, the developement
of the arc Al'. Ft this circumllance, augmenting the didance of tlie radii
A a and F/oi'the parallels, fomewhat prolongs the point of concurrence
«f the lines AR and CP.

The point R' is obtained in gcp.eral by reference to fimilar triangles :
R'Aa, R' Ff, which give

A a: Ff:: AR' : FR' . .

AaFf:Aii:: AR' : FR' or AF : AR.

When we willi to have regard to the difference between the arc and
its chord, we fubllitute to the line AF the developed length of tl)e
arc /lEF.

68. The aftroiiomcr, Dellile (de la Croycre), who was charged with
the conftruftion of a general map of the Riiffian empire, wilhing to
avoid the inconveniences of the ftereographic projcftion ibove-men-
tioned, cliofe the conical j^rojeftion ; but in order to perfeft it, he
thought of making the cone enter into the fphere in fuch a way that
it ihould interfect it according to two parallels, each placed at an equal
diftance fnim the middle parallel, and from one of the extreme parallels.
The map had, by this mean, on the two parallels jull mentioned, the
fame diiaenfions as the correfpondent part of the fphere ; and its
total extent diifered little from the country to be reprefented, becaufe
the excef* at the two extremities of the map was at lead compenfated
in part by the deficiency of the infcribed portion of the cone, with re-
fpcft to the fpherical zone. The map comprifing from the fortieth
degree of latitude to the feventieth, the middle parallel anfwered to
55" ; and the parallels common with the fpheres were thofe of 47® 30',
and 62" 30'.

Euler occupied himfelf with this projeftion, but he fubftituted to the
determination of the parallels, which mull be common with the fphere,
that of the point of concourfe of right lines which reprefent the meri-
dians, and of the angle which they make among tKemfelves in the com-
prehended degree oi longitude. His calculations are fupported on the
icjlowing gruundi. z. That the errors are ec^ual on the fouthern and

northern

Hhi

INTRODUCTION.

northeirn extremities of the map. 2. That they* 9re alfo equal to
the greatell of thofe which happen towards the middle parallel.
He tnence concludes that the point of concourfe of the meridian
ought to be placed beyond the pole by a quantity equal to five degrees
of latitude, and that the angle of two confecutive mtryy^.'.s ought ta
be of 48° 44' *

He then enquires how much the arcs of the great ciiCl t v -^Lla isiea-
fui-e the diftances on the globe differ from the right line:, Miich are fub-
ftituted to them on the map ; and he finds that an arc of 90* will luive
on the map a length of 90*. 791 of the exaftwefs of lefs than a hundredth
part of its extent.

69. There may be fubftituted to the conical projeftion made on the
two parallels of the globe, a map which may coincide with three, by
defcribing the extreme parallels and the middle parallels cither as right
lines, or as concentric circles of A given radius, then by dividing thcfe
parallels according to the law of the deereafe of degrees of longitude,
we fhall procure three points for each meridian, which will be reprc-
fented by the circle drawn through thefe three points. I fhall not dwell
on this projeftion, indicated, I believe, by Bion, in hi&book on the Ufe
of the Globe ; and which, like that of Ptolemy, is only the conical
projeftion disfigured.

70. Some geographers have alfo entertained the idea of developing in 3
tight line all the parallels, and one of the meridians, that palling through
the middle of the map ; thus the parallels, which are all perpendicular to-
this meridian, correfpond in fpacea with the globe ; there are then affumed
in each the degrees of longitude according to the law of their deereafe,
that is to fay, proportioned to the co-fines of the latitude ; in fine, there
paffes through each feries of the correfponding points of the divifion a
curve line, which repreients the meridian. From this conilrudtion, of which
fig* 28. offers an example, it follows that, in refpeft to its parallels, the
map prefents throughout dimenfions equal to thofe of the fphere ; but
the configuration is confiderably altered on the fides by the obliquity of
the meridians, fo that the fpherical reftangular quadrilaterals, comprifod
between the mendians and the parallels, are reprcfented by mixtilinear
trapeziums, of which the angles are very unequal, but the areas are in
truth equal. This projeftion has been employed in the Atlas CclelHs
of Flamftcad ; in the four parts of the world by J.B. NoKn ; and by fe-
veral other geographers.

71. Eafy to trace, and prcferving the relations of fuperficial extent
among the different countries, this projeflion mull have iiitereftcd geo-
graphers ; and an eafy mean was foon difcovered of correcting the dcfedt
occafioned by the obliquity of the meridians, by fubftituting to the right
lines reprefenting the parallels, concentric circles defcribed from a
point taken in the axis of the map, and pafTing by the divifions of that
meridian, the pofition of their common centre is fixed according to the
curve which it is proper to give them, that they may interfeft all the
other meridians with as little obliquity as pofTible. This proje6lion, re-
prefented at fig. 29, is the moft ufed in Fiance in general maps, fuch as
thofe of the four parts of the world ; and among others, DeliUe and
D'Anville have employed it* The quadrilaterals, comprized between
the parallels and meridians of this projeftion, are, as in the preceding,
equivalent to thofe on the fphere. In both thefe, diflandes cannot be
exactly meafured, except on the meridians and parallels : and the fcales

* A6la Aiiadeniiac Pvtropolitansr, torn, x; pus z*

introduction;

xlvii

of •fiich" maps only prefent approximations, which are, however, fuf-
ficient for the common purpofes of geography.

72. M. Delorgna has pvopofed a new projcftion, pofleffing the pro-
perty of reprefcnting, by equal fpaces, countries of equal exrt nt *. In
order to conftruA the map of ahemifphere, he conceives it to be divided
into half-fpindles or half-gores, to ufe the mechanical term, by planes
drawn through its axis ; and upon the centre of the great circle per-
pendicular to that axis, he defcribes another, of which the area (hall
be equivalent to that oFthe hemifphere. It is eafy to perceive that
each half fpindle will be reprefented on the circle in quellion by a feftor,
of which the angle will be equal to that formed by the two planes com-
prehended in the fpindle. This is demonftrated, fig, 30, in which P
reprefents the pole, ABD the plane of the equator, APB a half
fpmdle comprized between two meridians and the equator, the circle
A' B' D' is that of which the area is equal to that of the hemifphere
PABDE. It will be difcovered, without difficulty, that the radius
AC muft, in general, be equal to the chord AP of the arc of the me-
ridian, comprized between the pole and the plane, which terminates the
fpherioal cup to be reprefented f ,

In the polar proje^ion traced after this principle, the meridians are
the radii of the circle which terminates the map ; the parallels are cir-
cles concentric to the firft, defcribed with a radius equal to the chord
of the complement of the latitude ; the quadrilaterals formed by the
meridians and the parallels which terminate a zone, are equal and rect-
angular as on the fphere ; and for this reafon the configuration of the
countries is not much altered. The diftances are not meafured imme-
diately by the right line which joins the two points to be compared ;
but it does not differ much, and the exa£l: proportion may be eafily de-
duced. Thefe properties, which cannot be denied to the projection of
M. Delorgna, conftitute in his opinion, thofe effential to a good geo-
graphical projection ; and, in faCt, it muft be ufeful to adopt in common
maps this projection ; which is very eafy to conftruct when a hemifphere
is wanted, terminated by the equator. The author has alfo pointed out
the method of applying it to particular maps ; but the drawing becomes
complex when there is queftion of hemifpheres terminated by the hori-
zon, becaufe we muft then fubftitute to the meridians and parallels the
azimuth circles, and the alimicanters, or thofe parallel to the horizon
of the place afTumed for the centre of the map ; circles to which we
cannot refer the latitudes and longitudes, except by a particular con-
ftru&ion or calculation. The inconvenience is the fame with regard to
hemifpheres terminated by the meridian ; but, as I have faid above, the
difficulties of projection are of fmall account, when advantages will refult
from ic in the daily ufe of maps.

73. The operations effeCted in the preceding century, in order to de-
'tcrmine the figure of the earth by the meafure of the degrees of the
meridian, and of the parallels, have given birth to a very important kind
of projection, as it is that of the grand map of France by Caffini, the
moft beautiful geographical work which has been executed to the pre-
fent day.

* Prindpi di Geographia Aftronomico-Geometiica, Verona, lySfj, 4to.

•f- In fiitt, if n reprefent the relation of the circumference to the diameter, R the
radius of the Iphere, h the height Ptoi the cup Pabd, and r the radius of the equiva-
lent circle, we ihall have :

a n J?^ r: n »•*» from which we draw r^zz% Rh; r is then the poportionnl middla
between the diamstvr of the fphere and the fej^ment P e.

S Whea

INTROJDUCTIOi^.

When the admeafuremeiit of a degree of longitude was liridertaiteri^
the difficulty was feen that there is in drawing cxaiilly on the eartli a
parallel to the equator *. Infadt, ifby an alienation, direfled by the
means of vertical rods, and perpendicular to the meridian of a plafce^ we
may determine a lerie^ of points, it is evident, that fnppofnig the earth
fpherical, they Vv'ould belong to a great circle determined by the verti-
cal plane, drawn perpendicularly to the meridian in qucrtion, and whicli
ujion tlie earth anfwers co the cek-flial circle, whicli is called the firft
vertical. The parallel foon leaves that circle, which it only touches at
the point where it interleits the meridian (fe6lion 45^). In a fpheroid,
the curve perpendicular to the meridian has a double bend, and the
enquiry into it3 qualities has occupied many geometricians f ,

The meridian and its perpcndicuhus being lines which are the moft
eafdy drasvn by allronomieal and gcodefiac operations, it is to the meri-
dian of the obfcrvatory at Paris, and to its perpendiculars, that the
{)oints of the* nuip of I'rancc are immediately referred, their latitudes and
ongitudes having only been concluded a pojhnor't and by calculation*".

In order to form an idea of the manner in which this projection repre-
fents terreihial fpaces, it muft be obferved that the great circles per-
pendicular to the meridian, fuppofing the earth fpherical, all intcrfeft
each other at the polcj of th ^it meridian, and, in conCccpicnce, converp-e
one towards the other (fcAion 49) ; while upon the map, where the
fame mcridinn is a ftraight line, they become parallel to each other.
It thence follow:;, that the portions determined by two circles, perpen-
dicular to tbe mctidiaii, are reprcfcnted by redanglesof the fame length,
but larger towards their extremities. Thus the dillances and the areas
cannot be mcafured on the great map of France, but, by approximation,
and bccaufe the extent in longitude is not fo confiderable, tliat the con-
vergence of the perpendiculars to the meridian fhould produce an error
of any confequence in the common occafioiis of geography,

74. The rliumbs of the wind, or the directions indicated by the com-
pafs, which have the property of interfoding under the fame ancle all
the meridians which they ncct, and which, for this reafon, bear on the
globe the f(jrm of fpiral lines, are alfo reprefented by curved lines of that
kind in all tt;e mp.ps where the meridians are not parallels. Mariners,
who dired all ihcir c» urfos by thefo lines, cannot, therefore, conve.
iiiently refer to tliat kind of r/.ap the courfe which tlu-y have made,
cor find that which they mean to perform, becauO^ of the diliiculty of
iiicafuriiig with compafles the arcs of a curve, and have, in confequence,
fought a prcjettion in which the meridians fliould be Itraight parallel
lines.

When there is only occaHon to reprefent very fmall fjjaces, or, at
Icall, little extended in latitude, there may be lubllitutcd ,) the fphe-
rical /.one the devilopcment of a cylinder, liilier infcribed or circum-
fcribed on that zone, and of whicli the axis may coincide with that of
the globe. The meridians which rvfult from fei'-tions of tlie cylinder by
planes pafTing through its axis, are reprcfcnted by right lines parallel t(»
that axis j the planes of the parallels interied the cylinder according tt>
circles parallel to its bafe, and which become right lines in the dcveldpe-
nient. iiuch is the coniixutWonoi Jlut tuapsy of which the invention i»

• Mem. de Ciid'ni, Acnd. ties .Stieiioes i?.}^. ^

+ Mem. dc r.Vcic'cinit! dt'j SciohCoj, nniuc I7,^j.

\ Soetle r'ail^ unJytlqu,' de, Mouvnnau nf,p\„,,„ J,., C„rp, ilktttt, br Dufejour,
t> lu, «uu ihe Vijii :j iuii J^iumetrijtic dc lu Jr'iana, I7 Cadiiii,

ftfcribed

INTRODUCTION

k1i

xux

or, at

Iplie.

cum-

lat of

(T by

Icl t(»

injr ti>

plope-

tiuu it

afcribed to Don Henry, Prince of Portuojal. Their defefts are analo-
gous to thofe of the conical projcAion, and even more confiderable ; for
in this there may be given to two parallels their real lengtli with regard
to the degrees of latitude, and to one only on the flat maps, namely, to
the inferior for the developement of the circumfcribed cylinder, and to
the fiipcrior for the developement of the infcribed cylinder. We might
alfo employ the cylinder conftrufted on one of the intermediate paral-
lels, and which would be in part interior nnd in part exterior to the
fphere ; but in this way, the extent in longitude would o;ily be exa6t
toward* the middle, though the error would be divided betwixt the
two extremities. Qu;.'rtions alf) prefent themfelv>^s here limilar to thofe
which liulcr has reiolved for the conical projeftion. It is evident, for
Cjcample, that the parallel vvliich ferves as a bafe to the cylinder, might:
be placed in fnch a manner tliat the area of the developement fhould be
equal to that of the fpiierical zone.

T!ie drawing of thefe maps may be effected without difficulty, as foon
ns the pofition of the ton-eflrial parallel to be developed is fixed ; the
only ohjtci: .being to give to the degrees of longitude on that parallel
the fi7.e which they ouvjliL to have, in regard to that alllgned to the de-
gree of latitude.

The line // G, fig, 27, being fnppofrd parallel to the axis C P, and
equal to the developement ok tlie arc B F, will be the meridian of the
nap. intended to reprefent the zone comprehended between the parallels
of tlie points i? and F. The developement of tlie middle parallel^
wliofe radiu^j is E c, will give tiie degrees of longitude. From the fame
figure may be obicrved the deficiency of the map on the extreme pa-
rallels, fmce the radius 6'°- is fmaller than B h, and the radius H h
greater than F f.

Thefe maps being only proper for very fmail parts of the world, are
xiow nearly abandoned ; and in the gr..>ater part ot thole to be met with,
which arc Dntch, there is no icale of longitudes, but only of latitudes
and the rhumbs ot the wind.

75 Tlieufe wliicli mariners make of charts is only to trace eyat'^ly irt
its Kngtli and direction the conrA.^ which t!iey have made, a;.d to de-
termine tlie dJllance from different parts of the coaiis, ai.d the diredioa
whicli they muil obferve to arrive at or to avoid them. Tt nu:ll be re*
niarked, that by the ciirection to i.".- fdlowed to proceed from one point
to another, manners do ii'.t uiideiiland the neat. 11 coiirle,vvhieh upoa
a fpliere is a circle, for the inilrnment of which they make ufe, the
compafs, ilof^s not indicate innnediUely the neareft eourie, which inter-
fcds the different meiidiai,^ ui.der nn< quid angles (fcdtio-a 49).

Mercator and Edward Wright have imagined the prv/ie(fl:on o£
redui-fd titiips, which perfcvi^ly aiiiwer the coiuliiions required. The
meridians are there ilraight parallel lines, equiddlunt, and inierfttled at
right angles by tl»e paiullela to the equator; but the interv:ds whicli
Separate them, increale in proportion as we advance towards the poles,
in a relation precifely the inverfe of the dininntion of the dtgrecs o£
longitude upon a gh)be. Thence it fo!h)WH, however, that the dif-
tauccs in longitude, meafurid upon each parallel, have, with regard to
the correfpondent diHaiices in latitude, the fame relation ai on a globe.

The drawinir of thefe mnps is attended with no diHiculty, cx.cept the
conflruftiouoJ the fcalc of latitud.-H, for which there are tables calculated
%vith great care, even obferving the oblate figure of the eattlu They
lieir fio iiarae of tables of incieafing latit.idos, becaufe of the angmcnt-
fitiou wf tlie lenj^tU gf ^Ach degree of latitude, in proportion ms they

I-

INTRODUCTION.

approach the pole, and I (hall indicate lit another place the principles
of their formation.

It is evident that there muil not be fought on the reduced maps
neither the' relations of the extent of countries, nor the cxaftnef* of
their configuration, for this projeftion confiderably augments the re-
gions whicli are placed near the poles, although it fhare with the fte-
reographic projetlion, tlie. quality of preferving fimilitude in very fmall
parts of the globe ; but thefe dcfefts are not attended with inconve*
nience in charts, which may be regarded as inftruments, defigned gra-
phically to refolve the principal qneitions of pilotage, which they do
with the greateft exadlnefs and facihty.

76. It IS to the dcvelopements of the globe that we mud refer the
conitrudlion of fpindles or gores, which are drawn upon paper, in
order to cover globes of a moderate fize. The furface of the globe i»
divided into twelve or eighteen parts, according to the iize of its dia-
meter, by drawing meridians from 30° to 30°, or from 20° to 20°. The
fpace comprehended between two of thefe meridians having a very
fmall curve in regard to breadth, may be confidered as forming part of
a cylindHcal furface, circumicribed on the fphere, according to the
meridian which divides it into two equal parts. This meridian being
developed in bearing perpendicularly on each lide, according to the law
of ordinates, the half-widths of the portions, or parallels comprehended
between the meridians, which terminate the fpindle, we obtain the form
of its entire dcvelopement. Sometimes it is truncated at the two ex-
tremities, at fifteen or twenty degrees from the poles ; and thefe two
zones are drawn apart as if they were flat. This procedure, as may be
feen, is only an approximation, and can only ferve for the manufafture
of globes, as it admits the advantages of engraving in multiplying the
number ; for the drawing thence obtained, only prefenting disjoined
portions, cannot fcrvc as a map. For this reafon I (hall not dwell on
the fubjei't, which more properly belongs to the conflru£iion of geo-
graphical inftruments.

77. I have now dcfcribed the different kinds of maps, and fliewn
their properties and defeats ; but it mufl be obferved that the word
dcfed only refers to the coirmon way of confidering maps : for if we
regard them with Eulcr and Lagrange*, as a transformation of co-
ordinates, it is always mathematically poflible to obtain on a map all the
geographical relations whicli may be required. Only, as we have already
obferved, fome relations are more eafily obtained tiian others.

In faft, the pofit'on of different points of the fphere being de.
termined by their latitude and longitude, as the different points of lliC
plane arc by two co-ordinates, if we affume on a map lines fubjedlcd to
a mathematical law, in order to rrpreient thefe c; uiuinaies, we ftiall
eftablifh, between the points of the map and tlijfe of the fphere,
fuch a relation that we may afiign on the map the equation of the lines,
whicli correfpond with circles, or even with any curves traced on the
fphere, and compare the relative fpacca -vith each other. Reciprocally
it may be aiked, what ought to be the nature of the co-ordinates of the
map, that r., of the Vine: w;'icli rcprefcnt the meridian* and the paral-
lels, in order that the parts of that map may have fuch and fuch « re-
lation with thofe of the fphere ? In reiolving this laft queilion by the
mod refined analyfis, Euler and Lagrange have dcternained a fritn the

• Mrmnir* d'Euter, A{}a AtaJcm, Fttr^tl, tom. l p. I. Memoir* da L*jran|'*,
Acid. dc Jbcrliu, aanc* 1 799.

COS-

INTRODUCTION.

The

I flievvn
le word
if we
of co-
all the
already

con-

conftrudion of different kinds of niapsi according to the qualities which
they ought to pofTefs.

It is unneceflary further to enlarge on this way of viewing maps. In
this circnmllance, as in moll others, neceflity has condufted, by par-
ticular and indireft paths, to refults immediately ufcful, long before the
difcovery of the general theory.

78. VVhen we h..e chofen the projedlion of the map about to be
conftrufted, and traced the meridians and the parallels according to the
law of that prc'jeition, the whole is divided into quadrilaterals, in which
are infcribed, according to their longitude and their latitude, the points
which have thus been dt^hiwrd. This operation becomes the more eafy
when the meridians and lU<^ parallels are reftri6ted ; and they are placed
in confeqttei>r;e from 10' to 10°, or from 5** to 5°, or even each degree,
according to the extent of country given in the map. Maps are alfo
diR.ingmttiQd into gittcrai or geographical, as the planifpheres, the four
parts of the world, the great ft<ite3 ; particular or chorographic ; and,
in iine, topographic, which embrace only very fmall extent, as the en-
virons of a town for example-, and prefent in detail the villages, hamlets,
and, by pifturefque means about to be mentioned, the features of the
land, as woods, hills, valleys, rivulets, ravines, &c.

It is proper to remark, that in whatever projection, the quadrilateral*
formed by the meridians and the parallels near the centre of the map
differ fo much the lefs from reftangular parallelograms, as they occupy
fmall fpace on tlie map or on the g! jbe ; as the map is on a large fcale ;
or as tlie meridians and parallels are more related to each other. Hence
all the proje6lions become blended with a geometrical furvey, when the
curve of the cartli is little feufible throughout their extent ; md the
diftances are then meafured by redtihnear fcales, which indicate a certain
number of itinerary meafures ufed in the country reprefented, or in that
where the map is compofed.

When the effeds of projeAion begin to be perceivable, the true
way of indicating the fize of the map, or its relation with the fpace re
prefented, is to fix the fize of a degree of latitude. It might be wifhed
that there were adopted for the different claffes of maps, fcales not only
forming aliquot parts, but according to the decimal order, as has been
appointed by the Dcpnt dc la Guerre, for the mans to be there executed.
By this moans, general maps become pcrfcftly co' .lifted with particjl: r
maps and ttjpographical plans, bccaufe the d t '/'s 'r^jreale from one
clafs to anotfier by relations oaiy lo fei/.e,

'I'he degree of latitude in the geograpiiical n^y.. \ nx\<f^ fT-imc 1 ns an
unit, that of the chorographical map ou^-^t 'n Li; repre< ■ \\ . i by 0.1c of
the numbers 2, >, or 10, which are exadl i.v Tons in the O' cimal fyftem ;
and, in like manner, for the degree rei'.i'tii^ *"rom the d.mrpfions of
the topographic plan, with regard to the dei.,'v » ( f ^'le chiivograplir: map.
A colTedlion of maps, either of the wor r of a country, is tailed
an Atlas ; and the molt convenient above all thofe which ferve to faci-
litate the reading of a work, and not I'lo";. in the largeft form, but
thofe which lead to the details by a gra'^.l '1 iuccenion of maps more
and more particular. The eye can rarely embrace without f!iiHculty the
confiderable fpace comprized in a flieet of the largeft paj r, above all,
when it mull be unrolled, and numerous names are fo. „ .L , but there
are fome cafes in which the neceflity of pail^.ng too frequently from one
map to another becomes an inconvenience to be (hunned, a.^d -naps of a
large form are then more expedient.

79. After thcfe explanation;?, it may be conceived that the fize of a
map (nay be reguhtud according to the intention ; and that maps ^ught

e 2 t«

•.^*j

T-NTRODUCTIO-N-.

to be conftrudcd inllie inverfe order of their details ; namely the topo-
graphical plan reduced from plans taken trigonomctrically upon the laud ;
cliorographical maps from an afl'emblage and redudion of topographical
plans ; and, in fine, geographical maps, properly fo called, from an
aflemblage and rcdu£liOa of chorograpliical maps.

I fliiall not here explain the rnetliods of taking furveys, as they belonpj
to geometry and trigoiiometry ; but fliall content myfelf with Ihewinjj
how feveral furveys are united in one topographical plan.

In order that two particular plans may be joined, they mud have two
common points, or a line of the one may he applied on a line of the
fame denomination in the other. Tlien defcribing this line on the paper
defigned to receive t!- ; topographic plan, fo that there may be on each
fide a fpace proper to comprise that about to be drawn, it only remains
to combine by triangie;>, either with the points of that line common to
the two plans about to be united, or with the points to be placed after-
wards, all thofe comprehended in each plane ; and, by conftruAing
equal triangles, in a fimilar pofition \\\l\\ regard to the leading line on
the topographic plan, the two plans may be united without difliculty.
But if they muft be reduced, as moil commonly happenii, triangles mult
Be formed on tlic topographic plan, like thofe on the fliects of the fur-
vcy, fo that the fides of ilie firfl. may be to thofe of the fecond in the
relation exacted by the reduelion.

When the leaves of the furvey arc marked with the meridian, cither
true or magnetic, and that this line is the icmc in all the lliects to be.
reunited, then the points of each leaf are referred to the meridian, and
to a perpendicular drawn on that line, by a point common to two con-
tiguous leaves. The dillancfj-o of all the poims from each or thcfc right
lines is meafured parallel lo the other, and thcfe diilancea arc referred,
either fuch as tiiey are, or reduced to the meridian and perpendicular
drawn in the topographic plan, to rcprefent thofe which arc common to
the fliccts about to be joined. This leads me to fpeak of the frame
divided into fquarcs, employed in reducing all drawings, and which ia
' very convenient for the conllrui-tion of the details of maps.

The Ihccts which are to be united arc divided into fquares by parallel
lines, pcrpendicuhir to tiiat which is common to the Ihcets, and the
more they are n\ulliplied tiicre is the more facility in judging of the
place to be occupied in each Iquare, by the ptjints and ciicumftanccs
herein contained, and inTcribing tlicm v/ith a (l:ic1 refemblance ia the
correfponding Iquarcs trai'ed on the reduced pLu;.

Tliis operation is repn fentcd in tig. 31. 'i'iie fiieets ABCD, EFGHt
having in comn.on the right lines CD and ZT/, arc divided into fquares*
of which the iides are i)araU( 1 and perpendicular to thefe right lines ;
the leduced plan, a t'fc, it; divided in llie fame manner, in regard to
the lli.e 4 </, reprcfentin^ the comraou right line, hut the fides of each,
fquare are the halves ot tliofe of the llieets yli]Cl), KfGII, fo that tho
objcds marked m\ lliele flieets aiv '•educed lo half their dimenlions, and
to a fpace forming only one quarter of what they occupied at fird To
copy the defign traced m each ol tlie original leaves, we either imitate
by the eye in the fqnan s of the plan ahff^ what i"? contained in the cor-
refpondent fquares »)f the flieets AllCD^ EFQHy or rather, for more
exatliiefs, we take marks or numbets on cwch of the fides. When we
do not vvilh to draw lines on the drawing to be copied, a very level glafs,
of very equal tranfparency, is placed above it, uj.i'ii which fijuares are
drawn with a glazier's diatYiond, and two perpendicular lines are made
to coiiitidr on fhnfe whitli are ;o fci'vc for the juudtiou of the (beets or
tike points wiiicii dctcnuiuc it.

► ^ 80. Whca

INTRODUCTION.

■Sc. When a topographical plan is thus formed by the union of de-
•frached furveys, in order to pafs to chorographic maps, we mult not
only afiemble the plans, butfubjeft them to the projeftiun to be adopted.
For this purpofe we trace on thefe plans the meridians and the parallels
in right hnes, refpeftively parallel and perp;?ndicular, as thefe circles are
when only extended over a very fmall portion of tcrreftrial fiirface. The
correfpondent quadrilaterals are alfo traced on the map to be conlhu£led,
but agreeably to the laws of projeftion ; and there only remains to draw
in thefe quadrilaterals what is contained in the fquares cornprchended
between the meridians and the parallels of the topographic plan. When
extreme precifion is required, as thefe fquares do not Itridtly correfpond
with the quadrilaterals, we take, by reference to the fides of the tirft,
the dillances of tlie principal points therein contained ; thefe dillances
are converted into fubdivilions of the degreea of latitude and longitude ;
and the like are taken from the parallel or meridian contiguous to the
coiTefponding quadrilaterals of tlie map.

In thus conllru6ting, by fmall portions, the drawing of a map, the
embarraffment is favod which is occafioned by a too wide «txteniion of
tlie compafl'es ; and great errors and their confequences are avoided, as
the foundation refts on the fides of the fsme little fqnare : befides this
fpace being very fmall, any eye of the leaft experience immediately per-
ceives the flightell error, which may have been committed in the tranf-
pofal of the objeiEts.

It may happen that the topographic plan is not marked with the
points of the compafs, or being marked in thcdirettion of the magnetic
needle, we do not know what was the variation of the needle at the time
the plan was taken, or reduced, or even on the fpot of the operations.
Tiiis effential objedt may be fnpplied, when the plan contains two points
of which the refpeflive pofition is known ; as in joining thefe two points
by a right line, we thall find the angle which this riglit line forms with
the meridian, and we may in confeqnei.ee place it injts due relation to
the meridian, or conitrudt by means of a given angle the meridian of the
jilan.

By the fame rnethod may alfo be determined the fcale of a topogra-
phical plan, when k has been oniitti'd ; for if we know the diilance of
two points in t'.iat phui, we have only to divide into pi>rts, proportioned
to the itinerary meafmes contained ».■ this dift:;acc, the riglit hnc which
joins thefe two points; which thus bec.inies the fcale of the map, and
fiiews he didance oi alt the other point;^ from each otiier.

8 rhe paffage from chorognip'.ital mips to a general or geogra-
phical map is analogous to that from topographical plans to the choro-
graphic map, by tianlpufing into the qnadnlaterals, formed by the
meridians ar.d the parailclb of the geographical n ap, what is contained
in the correfpondent quadriltvlcrals of the chorographic maps, which are
aifenibled and reduced.

It is abo\'e all in this la(l operation that we perceive the nrccfllty of
aftionomical obfervations, in urdcr to li^. t'ne pufition of points at lonie
diilance from each other; it may in fad happen, that in the topog»-a-
phical maps, which ferve for the conftrudtion of the chorogi-aphic, there
may be errors common to all points of the map, as dillances too fmall
or too li.vge in tlie fame direction, and that thef;.' errors remain on the
chorographic mnps ; and, in re-uniting the latter upon h general map,
the large (paces which it reprcuiits will be fjniid too much redriftcd
or ddated vvitlMiul theenois bjiug perceived. But when tlierc is placed
ftirci^tly on the chot'ugraphic ii>iips, or at lealt ou the gcograpluCi « rer-

e 3 tai»

l!v

INTRODUCTION.

tain number of points, of a latitude and longitude finally determined,
thefe points will define upon the map certain fpaces, in which thefe
points and intermediate details may be laid down ; and if this do not
happen, the excefs or deficiency perceivable, arifing from the errors of
many maps aflembled, is divided among all the points of each, and
thence becomes almoft infenfible, except there be fome reafon to afcribe
the inaccuracy to particular points which muft be corrected by theaftro-
nomical obfervations upon others.

To lend more exaftnefs to the copies of their maps, it is upon the
copper itfelf that the geographers of the Depot de la Marine execute
their graduation ; and they even attend to the alteration of dimenfions
occafioned by the drying of the paper. The procedure followed in
thefe operations may be found in the Voyage of the fhip Flora, drawn
up by M. de Fleurieu, and the article Carte of the Encychpedte Me-
thodique.

82. It is not difficult to perceive that we may, by the means above
indicated, transfer upon globes the details marked in chorographic and
geographic maps. This operation, which I have mentioned in feft.46»,
confifts in dividing, by meridians and parallels, the furface of the globe
into quadrilaterals fo fmall, that the curve of that furface may be little
fiF^nfible, and to draw in thefe quadrilaterals what is contained in the
correfpondent quadrilaterals of the maps of vaiious parts of the earth.

Such would be the procedure in the conftru6ticn of maps, if wc might
in all countries begin with topographic maps, and materials reduced
to the fame mea Cures, cqwally accurate and perfectly accordriut ; but
unhappily this is not the cafe, there being but a fmall number of
countries, and France alone completely, which have been trigonome-
vric-dly fnrveycd. As to the oti^:M- parts, there are only maps con-
flrufted after different methods, and upon data which are little exa£^.
It is only in endeavouring to rec jncile all tliofe that rcprefent the fame
country, that we know the degree of confidence that may be placed
in each, and that wc may approach the real delineation.

After fome obfervations on itiuerar}- meafures, M. Lacroix thus
proceeds :

When we have eftablilhcd the agreement of the meafures, or of the
fcalcs employed in different maps, we can conflruft a graduation to
thofe which are deflitiite of it, as foon as we know, either immediately,
or by the diftinces oF given points, the latitudes and longitudes of
whatever poir.t ol thefe maps. We may in confequence compare,
by the latitiides and longitudes which they affign to the fame places,
the maps which comprehend the fame rcj^n ms ; and this manner is the
more r'. ;veniei)t, becaufe it eafily permits a reference to the difFcrencc
of pr. ,(.£^10118 in thefe maps.

The fame point being thus placed under different latitudes and lon-
gUiides in fcvcral ma',)K in r'er to procure to thefe data the degree
of c(>i^fidence which they merit; it nalt he obfcrved how thefe maps
prcfint ot.icr circumiian -es, as the reip-.v live fituations with .egard to
points well determined, Inch as the capitals of large countries, or of
th ir provinces, the diilanccs of thefe towns from places of leis con-
frquence, thi.' configmationi of the fliores, of the '.ourfes of the rivers,
cf the chains of mountains, of the high roads, the limits of territory j
and to «xamiiie in what they agree and in what they differ under each
of thefe relations. The latitudes, more eafy to be obfcrred than tha
longitudes, are generally better cflabliflicd upon maps drawn on the
relations of truvcUcis, The common dcfcft of the ancient maps it

1 ^ ctiuridcrablj'

INTRODUCTION.

Ion.
degree

maps
ird to

or of
s con-
rivers,

tory;

confideraWy to augment all the diftances of the places in the diredtion
of eaft and weft ; and the error becomes the greater in proportion as
the points are diftant from the principal meridian, whch regulates the
longitudes of the others. This fault is very remarkable in the maps
of Ptolemy with regard to the differences of longitude between Alex-
andria and the other, towns upon the fliorcfs of the Mediterranean.
The maps of the Sanfons, of Juillot, and others, compiled towards the
end of the feventeenth century, alfo extend all the countries in the
dire£lion of the longitudes. Such maps ilill furnifh ufcful materials
when the pofitions are corre6led in the diredlion of caft and weft, by
dividiiig, proportionally to the diftance from the principal meridian,
the difftrence between the h)ngitudes alfigned in thele maps, and thofe
which refult from new determinations.

In his Companion to a Map of the Worlds (London 1794, 4to.) Mr.
Arrowfmith offers the following practical remarks on projeftion *.

** As the Earth is of a form approaching very near to a globe, or
fphere, it is evident that the only map which can truly reprefent the
figure of the various countries, and their relative bearings and diftances,
muft be delineated on the furface of a Globe.

" But as globes of a fize proper to exhibit a map fufficiently
accurate, and containing all the information that is neceflary or de-
firable, muft be very bulky, and very expenfive, it is neceffary to have
more portable and cheaper Maps, executed upon a flat furface ; thefe,
fiace the art of copper-plate printing has been iu ufe, have generally
been made upon paper.

** It is obvious, that fuch a map, wherein is attempted to reprefent
upon a plane furface that which is really fpherical, muft depart con-
(iderably from the truth ; efpecially if it comprehends the whole, or a
confiderable portion of the world. It has, therefore, been an objeft
which has engaged the attention of the moft eminent geographers, to
difcover a projedion (or arrangement, of the proportional parts of the
map) which Ihould be liabl< to the feweft errors-

" The moft natural method of reprefentiiig a fphere upon a plane
feems to be to divide it into two equal parts, and inicribe each of them
in a circle : but as the equator, and the polar axis, which interfe^s
that circle at right angles, and makes one of the meridians, muft be
fuppofsd equal in length to the half of the periphery, (of which it is
not quite two-thirds), it follows, of courfe, that the countries delineated
upon, or near, thefe lines, muft be reduced to fome\vhat lefs than two-
thirds of the fize of the countries of equal extent, vhich lie at the
extremity of the circle; and ih-^t the lines drawn to meafure the
latitude, which are parallel to each other, or nearly fo, mull, in order
to preferve as nearly as poflible their proportional angles at the points
of iiiterfedion with the meridians, form fegments of circles, of which no
two are parallel or ctaiccntric.

•• There may be as many different projeftions as there .are points
of vinv, in which a globe can be feen, but geographers have generally
chofen thofe which reprefent the poles, at the top and bottom of the
map ; thefe, from the ddiiieation of the lines of latitude and longitude,
are called tlie fter'.ograpfac, orthographic, and globular projections.

*' I do not propole to detain the reader with a defcription of all
tlie projv^ionsj lome of whicb are fo erroneous (for the purpofe of

• Tbe sTjimruitlc^ errors .ire p«^y correled.

c + conftruftingr

•I'll

Iv]

INTRODUCTION.

conftruAing of maps) as to deferve being configned entirely t<|
-oblivion. But as projeftions of maps form a plcafing and irftruftiva
exercife, and indeed indifpenfably ncccfTaty to the right underllaiiding
of Geogrnphy. by ltud(!i.ts, 1 fliall delcribe the rr.nnncr of conftruding
the map tii?t accojrpar.ief this work. t'V.i firll hirt at the Stereogram
phic Projedior. . Among the various p litions aflignable to the eye,
there are chiefly two that have been adopted, wherein the eye is placed,
either in the points (i9, fig l-) or removed to an infiiiite dillance;
and hence this projedtion is liable to tlie great error of diltortiug the
form of the countries reprefeiitcd upon it, much more than is ntceflary.
The only advantage is, that the lines of latitude and longitude inters '
fed each other at right angles.

" This being obforwd by that excellent allronomer. M. de la Hire f ,
he invented a remedy for the inconvenience, by afiigning to the eye
a polition at the point (fjg i.), the diflance of which, from the
globe at Z>, is equal to the right fine of 45 degreer, ; and hence the
right line CO, .which bifeds the quadrant I3C, alio bifeds the radius
£C, and produces the fimilar triangles OFC't and OEI j and thus the
qther parts of the quadrant £C, and in like manner of the whole femi-
circle jIBC, are rcpvefented in the pro]t6tiou nearly proportionable
to each other, and to the eye perfetlly fo.

♦* This projedion, as coming the ncareft to a true reprefentation of
the globe, is called the Globular Projedion : it is equal to the Stereo-
graphic in point of facility, and valUy fupciior to it in point of
truth,

** Gcomeirical Co7iJi-u£llon of the Glolular Projinlcn.

" From the centre C (Og 2.) with imy radius, as CB, defcribe a
circle; draw the diameters u'lBt and 90, yo, (be careful to duiw them
at pcrfo6"t right angles,) aid divide them into nine equal parts ; like-
wife divide each quadtant into liine equal parts, each of which contains
ten degrees ; if the fcale admits of it, every one of thefe divifions may
be fubdivided into degrees : next, to draw the meridians, fnppofe the
meridian Sc" W. of Gicenwich, we hove given the two poles 90,90,
and the point So in the equator, or diamtter y/^ ; defcribe a circle
to pafs through the three given points as lollows ; with the radius 90,
fet one foot of the compiifils on the point 90, and defcribe the femi-
circles XX and ZZ, then remove the ci,mpaffcs to the point 80, oa
the equator, and dcfcrilc the arcs 1, i, and 2, 2 ; uhere they interfed:
the femicircle, make the point, as at i and 2, and draw lines from a
through the point i, till they interfed the diameter B^l, continued
in E, then will E be the centre tron-. wlsence the meridian 90, 80, 90,
muil be drawn, ;-nd will e.\j<refs tlie mciidiiMi of >'o° W. longitude tVoin
Greenwich. The fame rauius will draw the meridian exprelling 140*
W longitude, in l;ke uianuer. Draw the next meiiJian with the ra-
diu» CB, fet one loot of ti.e c<.tnpifres in the poii.t </, and defcribe
the arcs a a and b b, tluii draw lincB :•;> before, will give the point /),
the centre of 90^ W. U)ngilude, and fo of all the refl.

" Tne parallels of latitude are drawn in the fame manner, with this
ditference, that th-: leuiciixles XV and Z2'. n.ufl be drawn from the
poiuts A and B, the extremities of the equator.

• " Tlie iireat gcogrnphcr l}'Anvi|!(«, l,.is cciidrix^cil Iiis mnp ft" tlie World upon
tfcjj pT"!e<»lon, aJapiinK it to Caltiiii'!. fyltem of ilit figure cl the li;uth, which nukes
ihfc pol r (liiinc-rr iongci than ihc t\u.iiorialt

•f HJiLAcdfl. .KicttC, J7CX,

INTRODUCTIOK

rom a

tiiiued

o, 90,

tVoin

le ra-
licribQ
lit D,

:h thi»
III tlic

d upon

" In

^ M Tn tlie manner above defcribed, with great labour and exaftnefs,
I drew all the meridians and parallels of latitude to every degree on
two hemifpheres, which laid the foundation of the map now before us*

" We fliall now dtop a few hints on the advantage and difadvantage
of Meicator's Projeftion.

«' A method has been found to obviate fome of the difficulties attend*
ing all the circular projeJ'.^ions by one, which, from the perfon who
iirft nfed it, (though not the inventor, ) is called Mercator's Projeftion»
In this there are none but ri/rht lines ; all the meridians are equidiftant,
and continue fo through the whole extent ; but, on the other hand,
in order to obtain the true l:)earing, fo that the compafs may be applied
to the map (cr chart) for the purpofe of navigation, the fpace*
between the parallels of latitude, (which in truth are equal, or nearly
fo,) are nitide to increafe as they recede from the equator in a propor-
tion which, in the high latitudes, become prodigioufly great..

*• The great advantages peculiar to this projettion are, that every
place drawn upon it retains its true bearing with refpeft to all other
places ; the diftances may be meafured with the niceil exaftnefs by
proper icales, and all the lines drawn upon it are right lines. For thefe
rcalons, it is the only proje6lion in drawing maps or charts for the
life of navigators,

" Its o'lly difadvantage is, that the countries in high latitude*
are of n^'^eflity increafed beyond their jull fize to a monflrous degree^

*♦ Thus it appears, from this fliort view of three of the bett modes
of projf <?ting maps of the World upon a plane furface, that each of
thole which have been more particularly delcribed, is attended with
advantages and difadvaitages peculiar to itfelf ; it is obvious, that tha
only means to acquire a jnft idea of the various countries upon fuch a
furface, is by a companion of two maps, one laid down on the Mer-
cator's Projcdion, and the other upon the beft of the Circular Pro-
jeftione."

83. But the itinerary meafures adopted by the civilized natfons of
Europe, where fcience has been cultivated, are in a great mcafure free
irom this difficulty, as moll of them have been repeatedly compared
either with the degree of the meridian, or with each ether by means
of their refpcftive llandards ; for inltance, the Englifh, and the nautical
miles, the degree of the meridian coiitains 69.2 of the firft, and 60 of
the lecond : the P'nglifh foot is now known to be equal to 0.9384
of the French foot, or il inches 3.1 lines; and the Englifti yard of
three feet is equal to 33 inches 9.3 lines perch meafure.

By limilar companions and rtduftions the meafures ufcd in one
(Country may be eltimated in thofc of another ; but it often happens
that in the lame kingdom there are local meafures in particular pro-
vinces which are but httle known, and which differ confiderably from
the general llandaid. The difficulty of comparing thcfe often givea
rile to grtat confulion ; in France, for example', nothmg can differ
jnort" than tlie league of one pi-ovince from that of another : the perch
likcwii'e ufed by artificers is equally uncertaiw, varying from 18 to
22 feet.

84. It v/as to remedy this inconvenience that the French government
refulved to adopt a new flandard meafure, which, being founded ia
nature, fluiuld be lor ever independent of accidental circumllances.
The Metre is the ten millioneth part of the quadrant of the meridinn,
and the various fubdivifions and multiples ot this flandard unity will
be given in the fubjoiAcd tables,

85. The

Iviii

INTRODUCTION.

85. The laborious operations recently concluded for the purpofe of
eftabliftiing the metrical fyftem, have not only been the occafion of a
great number of accurate comparifons being made of different modern
meafures, but have likewife induced many learned men to inveiligate
the relation of thefe meafures with thofe of the ancients. To fucceed
in this attempt, we have only the traditionary relations of ancient
writers of the meafures of edifices, moftly either defaced » or entirely
deftroyed by time ; and of the diftances of cities from each other,
which likewife have either difappeared from the furface of the earth,
or whofe pufition is ftill a fubjedl of doubt and difcuifion. If we
attempt to compute thefe diftances from the writings of geographers,
as Hipparchus, Ptolemy, and Strabo, a great difficulty ariCi* from their
ufing the fame word **Jadiumt* to expreis different meafures. M. Gof-
felin, for example, has fliewn that Ptolemy ufes occafionally both the
ftadiuro of 500 and 700 to a degree.

The expedition of the French into Egypt, during the years 6 and 7
(1799, 1800), by procuring us very exatt meafurements of fome of the
moft ancient and beft preferved monuments of former ages, will afford
us great afliftance in thefe inveftigations. M. Girard has already pre-
fented a memoir on this fubjeft, chiefly relating to the cubit of the
Kilometer found in the ifland Elephantis, in Upper Egypt, an ancient
edifice, formerly built to meafure the increafe of the Isfile, a circum-
ftance of great importance in a country whofe fertility depends entirely
upon it. It would be foreign to the defign of this introdu6lion to
enter farther into this difficult fubjeft : feveral very valuable works
have been written on this fubjeft, to which the readier is referred, vid.
Traite des Mefurcs Itineraires des Anciens, by D'Anville } Metrologie,
by Paufton ; Traite des Mefures, by Rome de Lille, &c. &c.

86. When different maps are to be compared, if the relation of their
refpedtive meafures are known, a graduated fcale may be conftrufted
for them, provided the latitude and longitude of fome point be known.
And different map*; of the fame kingdom may be examined by obferv-
ing the latitudes and longitudes which are affigned to the fame place ;
and this method hni tlic advantage of not requiring any attention to
be paid to the diffc\cnL projedions which may have been employed for
their conitruftion.

We may judge of the rccuracy of different maps by obferving the
degree of difcovdance that prevails in the latitudes and longitudes ;
and to determine which merits the preference, other circumflances may
be examined, fuch as the dillances of places well known, as the capitals
of kingdoms and provinces, the courfes of rivers, the configuration of
their fhores, chains of mountains, high roads, boundaries of territory,
&c. ; and by obferving in what they agree, and in what they differ,
we may form a judgment of their comparative accuracy. The latitude
of a place being more eafily determined than its longitude, is ufually
the moft exactly placed in maps conftrwfted from the relation and
obfervation of travellers. The moft common defeft in ancient maps
is to affign too great a diftance to places fituated eaft and weft of each
other ; and this error is the greater as the places in queftion are farther
removed from the principal meridian. Tins is particularly remarkable
in the charts of Ptolemy, in which the longitudes of the places on
the fhores of the Mediterranean, and remote from Egypt, are made
much too great. The charts of Janfon, Jaillet, and others, conftrufted
about the end of the 17th century, have likewife the fame defeft.
Thefe charts afford, ncvcrthelefs^ ufcful materials, when the longitudea
;,,-,"'" ^ '.- * ' • ' ' are

INTRODUCTION.

tre proportionably correfted, by comparing the extreme error with
modern obfervations. When no reafon appears why any preference
fhould be given to one chart over another, a new one may be con-
itruAed, by taking the mean of all the longitudes and latitudes accord-
ing to the ufual arithmetical rule. With thefe new data, the general
outline is to be filled up according to the rule given, No. 80 and 81.

87. In comparing fmaller maps by means of the diftarces between
different points (and which diftanccs have perhaps been the foundation
of the map), it is ufeful to aflume two points, whofe diftance may fcrvo
as a ftandard to which the reft may be con^.paied. In comparing the
pofition of a third point with thofe on two different maps, two trianglei
fhould be conilrudled on the fame bafe, and the difference of their fum-
mils will fhcvv the difcordance between them ; and the middle point
(hould be chofen as the mean between them. Three comparifons of thit
kind will give a triangle, and feveral a polygon ; and the mean politioft
will be found by taking the centre of gravity of the Hgure thus formed.
The theory of this operation will eafily be underftood by thofe con-
verfant in the principles of ftatics ; I fliall only add, that the centre of
gravity of a triangle is found by drawing lini.s from each angle to the
point bifefting the oppofite fide; and '''■? rule will fuffice for three
determinations.

When, by this method, the diftance ne point is determined from
two others, fiippofed given in pofition, its longitude and latitude may
be determined, and the pJace transferred on the new chart, whatever
may be its projeftion. But if the chart includes but a very fmall fpace»
the fame operation may be more conveniently performed, by employing
a tretllis or fcale of crofs lines to lay off on the new chart the mean of
the different determinations.

It is not my intention to «numerate all the methods employed by
geographers in the conftruftion of maps from the different materials tliat
occafionally come into their poffeffion ; enough has been faid to enable
the reader, if acquainted with the geometrical principles of the fcience,
to apply them advantageouily to praftice, when an opportunity oc*
curs, having fufficiently explained the nature and objeft of thefe vari-
ous operations.

I have fuppofed materials to have been coUeAed, not from trigo-
nometrical furveys, but the obfervations and relations of travellers and
hiftorians. That nothing effential may be omitted, I {hall add the
method of reducing thefe materials into the form of a chart, particularly
as it is from fuch relations that maps relating to ancient geography are
conftru£led.

88. But, to proceed methodically, we fhould firft examine the nature
of the data that can be colle£led from the relation of travellers and
hiftorians : thefe are of two kinds, the one comprehends the tradition'
of certain celeftial phenomena, from which at leaft the latitude can be
calculated, as the length of the folftitial days, the lengths of the
fhadows of gnomons ; the other is the ftatement of the length of the
road between the two places, determined with a greater or lefs degree
of prccifion, and fometimes the indication of the diredion or bearing of
one place relative to the meridian of the firft. It will be (hewn, that
this latter method is that which is adopted by mariners, and, if exa6l»
would be fufficient to give the fituation of a place with precifion.

Among the data of the firft clafs may be cited the remark attributed
to Pytheas, a traveller who lived, it is fuppofed, about i zo years before
ihe Chriftian era, in the Greek colony eUabliihed at Marfeilles,

* He

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j^^.n^iS^^'ititi^^

mTRODUCTION.

He relates, that in the Ifle of Thule, fituated to tlie north of th©
Britannic iflea, and the moll r.orthern land known at that time*
there was no night at the folftice of fummer, nor no day on the folftice
•f winter. This phenomenon places the ifland, mentioned by Pytheas,
under the polar circle, and can only agree with Iceland ; and this feem$
confirmed by what the ancients relate of the magnitude of this ifland ;
iieverthelefs, fome difference of opinion ftill fiibfifts on this fubjeft,
partly becaufe of the great dillance of the place from the Britannic
iflands, and the difficult navigation incidental ta fo inclement a climate ;
and partly becaufe later authors than Pytiieas havefpoktn differently of
it. Stephanus of Byzantium, for example, defcribes the day as 20
hobrs long in fummer, and four hours long in winter ; this would bring
it much nearer, and within a few degrees of the Britannic ifles. But
the account given of it by Procopius, the Greek hijlorlarit would make
V8 imagine it to have been ftill farther north. Without entering into
this controverfy, I fball only obfervc, that the knowlctlge of geography
has varied fo much in different ages, that fome countries have become
unknown and forgot, while new ones have been di'icovcred ; fo that the
tidxat .oi Thule may really have been given to very diHerent places.

If we pixfer the authority of Pytheas, whofe defcription feems very
exaft, and moreover relates to a phenomenon which mull have appeared
very remarkable to the fouthern inhaijitants of Europe, we mull fup-
j)ofe the place under the polar circle ; and to deduce the latitude, we»
mull take into confideration the diminution of the ecliptic fince the
time this author lived. Admitting the change to be 50" for every cen-
tury, the total change for about twenty-one centuries will be 17' 30" |
the prefent obhquity being 23 ' 28', in the time of Pytheas it rnuft have
been 23° 45' 30". Hipparchus, who lived near two centuries later
than Pytheas, fuppofed it 23'' 51' 2o", an«J whichever of thefe deter-
minations we adopt, the Thule of Pytheas would be under the r;arallei
«f66.

But if we adopt the length of the folftitial day, as given by
Stephanus of Byzantium, we Ihall only have 63'' for the latitude of
Thule.

The fame Pytheas relates, that at Marfeillcs a gnomon divided into
ISO parts, projeded at the fummer folllice a fliadow vhofe length
W88 equal to 41^ ofthtfe parts. By conllruding a right angled triangla
whofe fides are in this ratio, it appears that the altitude of the fun muft
have been 71"; if from this the obliquity of the ecliptic as eftablifhed by
Hipparchus at 24®, in round numbers be taken, there will remain 47"
for the height of the equator at Marfeilles, or 43" of latitude.

Sometimes the Greek allronomcrs have indicated the height of the
fun in cubits each of 2". According to Hipparchus, the fun's altitude
•t the winter's fuUlice was onlv nine cubits on the parallel of latitude
^MjiTuig through the mouth ufthe Boryfthcnes (at prefent the Dnieper).
This luppofeu the altitude of the fun 18", and the latitude computed
from this is 48 , which diifem but little from modern deter^iinations.

It was from this kind of data that Hipparchus divided the whole
diftance from north to fouth of the known world into parallels. The
table of climates (N'. 20) calculated by this aftronomer, indicated the
principal cclcftial phenomena for evciy degree of latitude, and thereby
enabled attentive travellers to verify or improve the (late of gcographi*
Cal knowledge.

89 • It is not now exaiSlly known in what manner Eratollhenos, and
iftcrwaids Hipparchus, fettled their longitudes, the works of thefa

«arl/

INTRODUCTION.

rth of tTj9
that umcj,
the folftice
y Pytheas,
this feems
his ifland ;
lis fubjeft,
E Britannic
a climate ;
fFereiitly of
day as 20
•ould bring
ides. But
rould make
tering into
geography
ave become
fo that the
>laccs.
feems very
ve appeared
e muft fup-
atitude, we
ic fince the
r every cen-
be i7'3o"i
it riuift have
iituries later
thefe deter-
tbe parallel

s given by
latitude of

divided into

tofe length

;led triangle

e fun muft

abliftted by

remain 47"

•

|ight of the
altitude

of latitude

Dnieper).

computed
binations.

the whole
llels. The

licated the
Ind thereby
1geographi«

ihen«8, and

of thefa

eai-ly

tarly geographers ndt having been tranfmitted to us ; it is fuppofed^
kowcver, that it v/as by the mean* of itinerary diltances, which wa»'
very applicable to places in the Mediterranean, and along its coafts^
which lay in an eaft and weft diredlion.

With refpedl to places not fo conveniently fituated, they combined
thefe diftances into a fyllem of triangles, which method I fliall ex-
emplify by a cafe taken from the work of M. Gollelin, entitled,-
** Recherches lur la Geographic fyftematique et pofitive des Anciens."

From the defile called Calpiae Pylae to Babylon, Hipparchus reckons
6,700 lladia. From Babylon to 8uza 3,400, in the direAion of %
parallel to the equator upon which he fuppol'ed both thefe cities to be
iituated ; and lallly from Suza to the Calpiae Pylae 4,900 ; thele three
places form the triangle /?, .S, P, (fig. 32.) the initials of the place*-
reprefcnted. If a perpendicular PA be drawn from the fummit P of
this triangle to the oppofite fide B St which reprefents the parallel paff-
ing through Babylon and Suza, the length of this perpendicular 4,705
ftadia,. will be the difTerence of latitude between the Cafpiae Pyias and- .
Suza. This dillance, 'cftimated in degrees, (700 ftadia to a degree)
gives 6" 43', for the difference of latitude, and that of Suza being fixed
by Hipparchus at 33° 34', the latitude of the Cafpis Pylae would
be 40° 17'.

Tht didanco iS"-.^, contained bet^v^en the extremity of the perpen-
dicular P^and Suza, 1,370 ftadia, gives the diftance between the two
places mcuiarod from eaft to weft.

To conclude with fonie d-'gree of prt'cifion the difference of longi-
tndo expreiied in degrees, it would be roqiiifite to attend to the dimi-
nution of the dfgrees between tliefe parallclo, and which are inter-
ft'dted by the oblique line joining thcfo two points ; but this corredVion
would be very liale in compaiiiou of the error which more modern
obfcrvations have dctcdtod in thefe ancient determinations, and whicU
arifcs, not only from the curvature of the enrth being neglcfted, but
bccatife the itiner.iry meafurcs were eilimated in a very vague and
inaccurate manner, by days jouniios eitlier by land and lea, in which
. were reclcoiifd the different windiii<^-'i of the road and the finuofity of
the Ihore. It is only therefore, by a very careful invcftigation of dif-
ferent authorities and by a judicious choice of difl'ereI^t data, that the
errors of one can be re£\iiied by ihofe of another, 'i'he circuniftance
on wluch critics place tlicir gteuteft reliance, is the probability that tlie
mean of a great number ot tbcfe dcterminatiops will not differ widely
from tlie truth, fince it generally ha])pL'j!» that when an error has been
found in one direction, th.' fear uf falhng into llie fame, produces
another n\ an oppofite direction, and iroin tlu-K* coniiderations refults
tolerably accurate are fomctnnes obtained from very defeclive materials.
But it is the detail of the particular conllgination of each country
that has been of the greateft ufe in improving our knowled-fc of ancient.

?;eography, for ihcie local circumlhuic^js have been uiually very faitJi-
iilly delcribed, not only by hiftorians but by potts. Our modern geo-
craphers make the ancient map which they propofc to conftrud\ lub-
lervient to the confi'juration of the country as recently determined, and
by this mean* are able to explain the meaning ot many p.ifl'tgcs in
ancient authors, and to determine the poficion of places wiiich
they have deftribcd. It is thus that the Travels of M. Choifeuil
Gouvirr into Greece, and M. Chevalier to the Plains of Troy, have
•ffordcd very valuable documents to M. Baibier du Boccagc, fur
the conftiudion of his atlas to the TraviU oj.Ana;harJ'it t and it it

. .^E^Sf~ Ti^S^^S!^^^^ ^

txii

INTRODUCTION;

well known what utility D^Anville derived in conftru6ling his maps of
Italy and Greece from a judicious comparifon of ancient and moderft
xelatioos.

Hillorians who often had nothing in view but to relate the marches of
armies, only indicate the route by the fuccelHon of places, without
noticing the turnings and change of direction. In this manner military
maps were fometimes conftrudlcd ; for example» the one found in 1547
among the papers of Peutinger. This chart, though 22 feet long, was
only one foot broad ; it appears to have been con(lru6ted in the time of
Tbeodofius the Great ; it embraces all the extent of the then known
world, but diminifhed in breadth, fo as to appear abfurd, till we reflefi
that it is only intended to indicate the diftances of places, and not their
felative pofitions, or the configuration of the country, which could not
have been preferved in this form, which was fuited to be rolled up in a
imall fpace ; yet this map is extremely valuable, iince the diftances of
thofe places which are known appear to be very exa€l, from which we
conclude, that thofe which are now deilroyed or forgotten are fo
like wife.

It viras by a flmilar comparifon, and from a knowledge of modern
geography, that M. Goflelin, in the work above-mentioned, fixed the
extent of the navigation of the Carthaginian Hanno, and the hiftorian
Folybius along the coafts of Africa.

By thefe methods the ftudy of ancient geography has been reduced
to a fyftem, by which the identity of ancient cities and places is ellab-
lifhed with thofe more recently difcovered. And this is acconipIKlied
cither by the fimilitude of the country with that formerly delcribed,
its relative fituation with refpeft to others that are known, and fome^
times by ancient monuments and traditions ; and laftly, by the fimilarity
of name» conformity of language, and by the manners of the inhabit-
ants. This method alfo is fometimes applied to the long voyages un>
dertaken in the 1 6th century, the tradition of which is often extremely
confufed, the narrative of them being ufnally drawn up in too confufed
a manner to afford the requifite data for the determination of the fitua*
tion of the different places which were viflted by thefe early navigators.
91. It has already been remarked, (N" 88.) that beddes the itinerary
or linear diilancc of a place, it is neccffarr alfo to have its dire£Uon.
Before the difcovery of the compafs this could not be very accurately
afcertained. The ancient navigators, unprovided with mftruments*
directed their courfe by the circumpolar ftars, chiefly by thofe in the
Great Bear, our prefent polar ftar being 12° from the pole in the time
of Pytheas. They divided the horizon into a few fubdtvifions, often
determined by local circumllanccsy at appears by the names they gave
to the winds.

The Greeks at firft gave only four names to the winds* correfponding
to the four points, north, fouth, eafl and weft) called afterwards tht
cardinal points. Thefe names were

Eurus or the Eaft

Zophyrus - Well

Boreas • * North

Notus - • South.

They afterwards added four others, correfponding to the four polott
in which the fun rofe and fct at the winter and fnmmcr folftices. Scacca
in his QucUioncs Naturalcs* has given their names*

8ubf6l8ni)|

INTRODUCTION.

biii^

Eaft wind.

Winter rifing.

Between this lait and the fouth.

South wind.

Between the fouth and winter fet*

ting.
Winter fettinp.
Weft.

Summer fetting.
Between this and the north.
North.

Between this and fummer rifing.
Summer riiing.

From this table are derived twelve diviHons, which if equal would
contain each ^o°, but the rifing and fetting points determined by the
folftitial amplitudes of the fun, depend on the obliquity of the ecliptic
and the latitude of the place. This method of fubdivifion was therefore
too local and partial to continue long in general ufe.

Vitruvius has tranfmitted a divifion of the horizon into twenty-four
parts of 15 degree» each, and the names afligned to each wind are as
follows:

Subfolanus or

Apeliotes.

Vulturnus.

£uru3.

Euronotus.

Aufter.

Notus.

Lebonotus.

Africus.

Lebs.

Favonius.

Zephyrus.

Corus.

Argeftes.

Thrafeias.

Septentrio.

Aparetias.

Aquilo.

Mefes.

Cxceas.

Solanus. Eaft wind.

Favonius.

Weft wind.

Ornithiae.

Eteliz.

Cccias.

Arcius.

EuruB.

Cauru£.

Vultarnus.

Corus.

Euronotus.

Thrafeias.

Auftra. South wind.

Septentrio.

North wind*

Altanus.

Gallicus.

Lebonotus.

' Supernas.

Africus.

Aquilo.

Subvefpenii.

Boreas.

Argeftes.

Carlas.

By this diftribution, it is eaf^ to aflUrn the angle which any parti-
cular wind makes with the meridian ; for example the direction of the
wind Boreas being the fourth after the north, neccflarily makes an angle
of 60* with the meridian line.

Modem navigators divide the horizon into thirty >two parts or rhumbs,
each quadrant, containing eight. Ir. the ocean thefe are denominated
after the cardinal points, but in the Mediterranean they are known
moft commonly by particular names.

The following table will (hew in what manner thcfc correfpond with
csich other. It ocgins from the eaft that it may the mdre eafily be com*
par^d with the preceding.

In the Ocean.

East.

. E.byS.
E.S.E.
S.E.byE.
Ji.E.

S.E.byS.
S.S.E.
S.byE.

In the Mediterranean.

Lf.vante.

Quarta di levante firocco.

Levante firocco.

Quarta di firocco levante.

tilROCCO.

Suarta di firocco oftro.
ftro firocco.
Quarta dcU' oftro lirocco.

INTRODUCTIOtT.

In the Oceak.
South.
S.byW.
S.S.W.
S.W.byS,
S.W.

S.W.byW.
W.S.W.
W.byS.
West.
W. by N.
W.N.W.
N W. by W.
N.W.

N.W.byN.
N.N.W.
N.byW.
North.
N. by E.
N.N.E.
N.E.byN.
N.E.

N.E.byE.
E.N.E.
E.byN.

In the MediterranCaiI4

OsTR0<

Quarta dell oftro garbino*

Oibo garbino.

Quartu di garbino oftrp.

Garbino.

Qiiarta lii garbino poncnte.

Ponente garhiiio.

Quarta di ponente garbino.

PONENTE.

Quarta di ponente maeftro.

Ponente marltro.

Quarta di maeftro ponente.

Makstro.

Quarta di maeftro tramontana<

Tramontana maeftro.

Quarta di tramontana maeftro^

Tramontana.

Quarta di tramontana greco.

Tramontana greco.

Quarta di greco tramontana.

Greco.

Quarta di greco levante.

Greco Icvantc.

Quar a di levante greco.

Each of thefe divifions containing \ of the whole circumference, is
•qwal to 11*15'; therefore if a fliip fails N.E by E., this rhumb being
the fifth from the N» ia equal to five times x i" 15', or 56" 15' ; in like
manner all the other angles are attained, oaly care muft be taken to
obferve if the dircdtion is eaft or weft of the meridian line. By reckon-
ing either from the N. or S. point, the obtufe arigles which the above
metiiod introduct s are avoided, S.W.Jjy S. for example being the third
ireckoniiig fror.i S. towards W. corrcfponding to three times n" ij' or
33" 45' from S. towards W. Notwithftanding the facility of this re-
<hi£tion, it would have been preferable to have divided each quadrant
contained by the cardinal points into 90° each, according to the ufual
divifion of the circle ; and which method is fotnetimes employed by na-
vigators who aim at great prccifion. In general it may be obferved that
divifions of any kind indicate the ftate of the fcience at the period of
their eftablKhnient. The firft mariners wfu) ufcd a compafs, no doubt
thought they had done a great deal in dividing the circle into thirty two
parts. They chofe tliis number probably from the facility with which
compaftes could be divided by continual fubdivifions, as they were at
that time conftruded by the pilots themfelves. The aflemblage of
thefe divifions in their well known form is called the *♦ mariuer^s card.**

92. If the length and direction of a line commencing at a given point
be known, the point at which this line terminates is alfo eafily found.

If its length be not confidcrable, the curvature of the earth may be
difregardvd, and the meridians may be confidered as parallel, and the
rhumb lines as ftraight lincB ; and to trace upon a plane fi.rface the
trait defcribed in this cafe, it will only require a line to be drawn, making
an angle with the meridian corrcfponding to the rhumb-line ; and to fet
off from the fcale u portion of this line equal to the diftance defcribed,
the point thus found is the point arrived at. Or it may be calculated*
by uiawing a perpendicular from one extremity of the above line, to the
I 9 mcrid aa

INTRODUCTION.

•tneridian pafllng through the other extremity ; a right-angled triangle
WiH thira be formed, in which the diftance between the point of depar-
ture and the perpendicular intercepted on the meridian will give the dif-
ference of latitude in linear rheafure, and which may alterwards be
reduced to, decrees of the meridian. In the fame manner the perpen-
dicular will corrcfpond with the difference of longitude of the two
points, and may be reduced by a fimilar procefs. But in making this
red-u6tion it is advifable to calculate the value of the degree of longitude
for the mean latitude between the two points, in preference to that of
the point of departure. This operation is equivalent to dividing the
degree of meridian by the cofine of the latitude.

Another queftion fometimes occurs, which is, when the dire6tion of
the traA is not known, but is to be determined by the latitude of the
point arrived at. Tlie conftru6lion of the chart confifts in drawing the
two parallels, and with the point of departure as a centre^ defcribing a
circle with. the radius equal to the traft run over, the point of iuteriec*
tion t)f the circle and the fecond parallel is the point required.

To determine this point by calculation, a right-angled triangle it
formed, as in the laft example, the difference of latitude is to be con-
Verted into linear meafure. Then one fide and the hypothenufe being
given, the other fide or perpendicular, which is the difference of longi-
tude, may be found as above.

93. When the traA defcribed is of fuch a length that it becomes ne-
ceffary to attend to the curvature of the earth, the above problems (as
far as they»-relate to the redudlion of the eaft and weft lines into degree*
of longitude) require an operation which can only be commodioufly ef-
fefted either on a reduced chart, or by a calculation^ the nature of Mrhich
is now to be defcribed. Since the rhumb-lines interfe6t all the meridians
at the fame angle, let us imagine the trait defcribed to be divided into a
number of fmaller portions confidered as ftrait lines, then through the
extremities of thefc portions let meridians and parallels be drawn, each
of thefe portion;) will thus become the hypothenufe of a right-angled
triangle, whofc fides will be tha> difference of latitude and longitude ex«
preffed in linear meafure. Let one of thefe be reprefented by the tri-
angle y/5C (fig. 33.) ; by trigonometry ^j5 .• yiC ;: I. cos. J9^C hence
y/6' = JB. COS. BylC. but the angle jBj^C being conftant for all the
meridianG interfedled by the courfe, the difference of latitude proper for
each fmall triangle will h.. .e the fame faftor, and the fum of all thefe
differences, or the total difference of latitude of the extreme points will
be equal to the fum of the portions, or the total length of the traft de-
fcribed, multiplied by the cofine of the angle which it makes with the
meridian,- as in the preceding cafe. The rcdudtion into degrees is cf-
fedled in the fame manner.

The difference of longitude correfponding to £C may be found by
means of the difference of latitude j^C. for yiC : BC ,•.•!: tang. B/lCt
hence

J?C = AC. tang. BAG.

But to know this difference in parts of the equator we mud refer t9
what has been faid, (N*48.) where it is fltewn that if Z, reprefents the
latitude of the parallel pamng through the pomt A. then
B : to the correfponding arc of the equator : : cos. Lit. and confe*
quently this arc it

^V^IZTT^ ^»' ^^ fttWUtute iu valut found at above, and, Tht
cot. ^

f ' diffiertnct

MMmmmmm. .,^i.

Ixvi

INTRODUCTION.

difference of longitude =

X tang. SJC, The fam therefore

C08.L

of all thefe elementaiy differences of longitude vnW be obtained by

multiplying the fum of all the values of the Tatiable h€tor =•

COS. L
by the conftant faftor tang. SjtiC.

If theTe portions be taken fuch that the difference jfC may equal i'

of the meridian or equator, then fince

COS. Z,

=: fecant L. the above

expreffion becomes difference of hngitnde rr i' X fee, X. tang. BAC,
and the fum of the fadtors i' X fee. L vrill be obtained by adding all
the fecants for each minute* for the whole are between the point of de-
parture and that of arrival. '

This method, however, is only an approximation. Since even the
arc of a minute is not rigoroufljr a ftrait line, it may be made more
exadl by taking the fecants for every loth, or even for every fingle fe-
cond ; this procefs would be extremely tedious, but the integral
calculus gives the exaft expreffion for this fum to difference of latitude*
or intercepted arc of the meridian being fuppofed divided into an infinite
number of portions. It is in this manner that the values of all poffible
arcs have been calculated in the tables of meridional parts mentioned
above.

The ratio of the degree of latitude to the degree of longitude being
as 1 to cos. latitude, to preferve this ratio wheu the meridians are fup>
pofed parallel, it is neceffary that,

i' of the merid. : V of the paridlel i: i : cos. lat. or I'of the
1 ' of the parallel , r , r »

mer. =: v = i' of the par. X fee. L»

cos. L

' If we calculate therefore from ©• the fucceffive minutes of the meri-
dian, taking thofe of the parallel equal to the equator, we fliall be led
to each parallel by the fum of the fecants, calculated from minute to
minute, from o' to that parallel.

The exaft method of calculating thefe tables is derived from the pre-
ceding confidcration, as likewife the conftruAion of a traverfe upon a
reduced chart. But for the object I have in view the two following
ruJes are to be obferved.

For the firft queftion. — After having obtained, as in N® 92 the la-
titude of the pomt of arrival, take in the table of meridional parts, the
difference of the numbers correfponding to the two latitudes, and mul-
tiply it by the tangent of the angle which the courfe or rhumb line
makes with the meridian, and the refult will he the difference of longi-
tude expreffed in minutes of a degree.

In the fecond qucftion, the angle which the rhnmb-line makes with
the meridian is not given, but it may be deduced from the difference of
latitude reduced into leagues, and by the diftance defcribed ; with thefe
data the difference of longitude may be computed as above.

For example, fuppofe a veffel fets out from a point, fttuated in lati-
tude 42* 3' iforth,. and has defcribed a C2 leagues N.£. bv E. which is
equivalent to An angle of 56" 15' with the meridian, it will be found that
the difference of latitude, reckoned on the line N. and S. is 140 leagues,
or 7^ towards the N. This difference being of the fame denomination,
muli be added to the latitude of the point of departure, which givet
4Q« 4' for the latitude of the point of arrival.

INTRODUCTION.

Ixvu

The number is then to be taken from a table of meriilional parts, ccoy
Ihefponding to 49* 3',

viz. - • 3386,7

then for 42* 3' = 2785,8

the dilTerence • - 600,9 the log, of which is to be
added to the tangent of the angle 56* 15', and therefult, which anfwers
to 899', or 14* 59', as the difFerentfe of longitude towards tlie eaft.

94. Thefe ryles being founded on ftrift geometrical principles would
be perfe£lly exadl, if the data were fo likewife, but the direftion of the
tra« defcribed as given by the compafs, is fubjeft to much uncertainty,
from caufes well known to mariners, fuch as the variation of the needle,
not always eafy to determine, and the drift or lee way which a (hip
makes by the adion of a contrary or fide wind, which prevents it from
following exaftly the direftion of the keel. Thefe circumftances were
very imperfedtly attended to by navigators till within the laft century.
The meafure of the dillance actually defcribed is alfo fubje£t to coa*
fiderable uncertainty. ■

The ancients often exprefs it by the numbert of days* march or navi-
gation, and it is frequently a queftion of great difficulty to afcertain
the value of thefe quantities, which vary in a variety, of ways, and in
different ages, according to linear meafures in ufe at the time, to the
particular region, the manner of travelling, and the fize of the veffel.

By duly confidering all thefe circumftances we obtain a mean value,
which is to be depended on, in proportion to the number of fa£):8 from
which it is derived. By attending to the forms of the various inflec-
tions of the roads in countries interfe£fced by mountains, or by the courfe
of confiderable rivers, and likewife in level plains, general refults may
be obtained concerning the increafe of length in the roads, produced by
the interpofition of thefe obftacles, and by which the diftance muft
therefore be diminished, to obtain the rcfult on a llrait line.

To eftimate the diftance palTedover by a fhip, it isrequifite to know
the effect of currents, which a£t at the fame time on the vefTel, and on
the piece of wood or /og which failors throw into the fea, confidering it
as a fixed point, and reckon how far they recede from it in a given time,
ufually half a minute a rope divided into knots, the diftance of which is
the hundred and twentieth part of a nautical mile, becaufe half aminmc
is the hundred and twentieth part of an hour, as uXed for this purpofv*.

^ut if the velTel and the piece of wood are Jpoth a£led on by the fam«
current, the diftance of the fhip from the log will ojily fliew the relative
velocity of the fhip with regard to the current, and the velocity which
this current imprelTes at the fame time on the veffel and the log, ftill re*
mains to be determined. It is partly from thence that the difference,
which is often very confiderable, arifes between the fituation of the
Aip, as eftimated by the pilot, and that where fhe really is.

, From thence alfo it happens that the countries difcovered by ^fage^an,
Mendana and Quiros, have been fo ill deianed with regard to their lon-

g'tude, that it was with difficulty that they were again found. The
>1omon iflandi, remarkable from their extent, and the circumftantial
defcription of them left us by Mendana who difcovered them, have
varied '» fituation almoft through the circumference of the globe. None
of the navigators who took this route after him, beginning with Quirot
who had accompanied him, and who followed him immediately, could
find them. At length their e](iftence even became doubtful, but
M. Buaiche hai at length proved that they were the Tern de» Arfocidet

f 3 . and

_«iiiii.,-.

:^.>aaitmi'W'iiiiitiiS!iri

IxTiii

INTRODUCTION".

and the adjacent iflands^difcovered by M M. de Bougainville and ^eSur*
ville.

Their latitude was found to be correft, bijt the currents that run
from eaft to weft in tlie Southern ocean had very much increafed the
diftance traverfed by Mendana, of which he was not confcious ; fo that
he imagined himfelf to be 1500 Spanifli leagnes, or 1700 French nautical
leagues from the coaft of Peru, when he was in reality 2400 leagues.

The voyages round the world, particularly thofe of late years, in
which the frequent obfervation of the longitude has enabled the navi-
gators to make a comparifon between feveral corredt points of the courfe
and thofe obtained by eftirtiation, have procured many very important
data concerning the velocity of currents in different parts of the ocean.

Thefe data are colle£led and carefully difcufled in the Voyage dn
Capitaine Marchand, publiflied by M. de Fleurieu.

The fame work contains an hydrographical nomenclature of feas,
gnlphs, bays, &c. which it would be very convenient to adopt in geogra-
phy and in charts.

95;. When a refult has been adopted for the value of the diftances in
a ftrait line, the application of the ''procefs defcribed in No 92 . will
almoft always fuffice to conftruA the geometrical plan, from rfie dath
deduced from hiftorical or itinerary narrative ; for thefe dift'ances can
only be correft in proportion as they are fmall, in which cafe the pro-
jeftion (No. 78.) may be neglefted ; and when th?y are large their un-
certainty often iurpaffes the reductions which the laws of projeAion re-
Jiuire, which therefore may be always omitted in the conftrud^ion of thia
pecies of chart, recollefting, however, to take them into confideration
when thefe materials (No. 81.) are applied to geographical charts, fubje&
to aftronomical projections and obfervations.

By the perufal of what has preceded, we may judge of the extent and
variety of knowledge which a geographer fhould poflefs, of the courfe of
reading which he fliould affiduoufly purfiie, the notes which he (hould
colleft, and moreover difcufs and clafs according to the rules of found
criticifm.

I have been obliged in an Introduction to confine myfelf to general
ideas on the fubjeft, and to refer for particular examples to individual
treatifcs. It is m the writings of Dehfle, D'Anville, of Buache, and of
GoiTelin, that the elements requifite for geographical combination muft
be fought.

At the end of the voyage in the interior of Africa by Mungo Park,
we find notes by the learned Major Rennell, which prefent a coUeClion of
difcuflions, as well adapted to render intelligible the nature and objett of
critical geography, as they are important in defining the ftate of our
knowfedge of the interior of Africa.

96. Having briefly expofed the principles of the conftruftion of chartSf
it rema.in8 to fpeak of their ufes.

Of thefe the greater part are obvious, or onl^ require the knowledge
•f a few marks eafily recognized, and which formerly were explained in
a reference placed at one fide of the map.

Thefe figns mark the fituations of places, and are modified according
to the imjiortance of the places, and the rank which they bold in the
civil, military, or ecclefiaftical government of the country.

The very fmall circle which is adjacent or attached to each of thefe
fiffns, muft always be obferved, becaufe it is the c«ntre of this circle
wki«h marks tke pofttioA tf Uie plucc.

I* 3f

INTRODUCTION,

Uix

'By taking its diftance from the neareft parallel of latitude in the direc-
tion of the meridian, and meafuring this diitunce on the graduated v(ievi-
dian, we get the latitude of the place ; its longitude is obtained by the
meafure of its diHance from the neareft -^eridian^ taken in the diredlion
of the parallel.

Thefe operations require a little attention in charts, where the meri-
dians are not parallel ftrait lines.

The graduations marked on the edge of the chart being then oblique
with regard to the meridians and the parallels the diftaiices taken as
defcribed and referred to thefe graduations, will not give exafliy the
differences of latitude and longitude between the place required and the
ueareft parallel or meridian.

In this cafe it is requifite, either to find the proportion between thefe
diftaisces, and thofe of the parallels and meridians on the map, or elfe to
draw the parallel and meridian which pafles through the place required,
a^d prolong them to the edges of the chart.

This latter operation is very eafy on the conical projeftion relative
to the meridians which are itrait lines ; and the parallels, which are
poncentric circles, may be alfo drawn by following the neareft with
pne poin.t of a compafs, whofe opening is equal to the dijBTerence
of latitude. It is not neceffary to obferve, that tlie diltance of the
two places ought to be meafured from the centre ■ of the little circle
which indicates their poiition ; but it (hould be remarked, that whei)
the itinerary diftaace is required, and the roads are marked, the length
of thefe lines ought to be meafured, by taking between the compaffes
every individual length of the parts included between the turns of the
road.

When the map admits of fufficient detail, the plan of the cities is
a little extended, and the principal points of them are marked ; and it
muft then ^e indicated to which of thefe points the geographical po/i«
tion refers.

97. A fimple line marks the courfe of fmall rivers; and the two
banks are marked feparate, when the fize of the river is fulBcient to
^dmit of its being eftimated on the fcalc of the map, which happens
xnoft frequently at their mouths.

The mores of the fea arc marked by a very fine line, edged with crofs
fading.

In geographical charts thefe Hiades are exterior with regard to the
land, and feem to indicate the undulations of the fea on the coafts ;
while in nautical charts the (hades are turned towards the land, as indi-
icating the fteepnefs of the coafts.

Navigable canals are reprefented by broken lines, to diftinguifli them
from natural water courtes, which arc reprefented by undulating or
waved lines.

High roads are often diftinguifhed by fine double lines running
parallel to each other, and fometimcs by fingle lines, either continued
,or (lotted, though thefe laft are ufually referved to diftinguifh the
boundaries of different ftates, kingdoms, and provinces, the magnitude
and diftance of thefe points being varied accordingly.

Maps are rendered ftill more intelligible by being coloured. In fome
countries, particularly in Germany, the fame colour is fpread over the
whole furface of the country which is to be diftinguiflied fi;om the
others ; this mode of colouring is perhaps lefs beantitul than that ufed
}n France, but it has the advantage of rendering th? Hze of the country^
fu^d form of its boundariesi more obvious,

^3 In

-.^.^..aMiaPIWmmwrn

INTRODUCTION.

In meafuring the extent of a countij, two cafes are to be diftin*
guifhed ; that in which the proje£tion of^ the chart reprefents, by ecfbal
larfaceS) regions of equal extent upon the earth ; in this cafe their area
is meafured like that of plane figures, by infcribing redlangles on the
fpace contained within their boundaries j or by reducing them, at lead
by ai)proxin?ation, to regular figures.

In the other cafe the fuperficies mud be divided into quadrilateral
figures, formed by the parallels and meridians taken fufficiently near to
each other, as has been defcribed in No. 50., fpeaking of the globe^
and the areas of thefe quadrilateral figures mull be meafured according
to the prpcefs defcribed in that number.

98. Maps of the world may ferve for the fame purpofe as general
charts ; and thofe which are projected on the plane of the horizon
may befides be employed for the (olution of the queftions defcribed iu
K08. 54. and ^$. The difference of longitude contained between two
meridians which terminate in the fame parallel, being converted into
time at the rate of one hour to 15 degrees, gives the time which a celef-
tial body, correfponding to the propofed parallel, remains above the
horizon, and confequently gives the length of the day, when thofe
parallels are taken, ou which the fun traveld from one folftice to the
Other.

If, for the plane of projection or horizon, a circle of illumination be
taken ; that, for example, which correfponds to our fummer folftice*
and which is confounded with the horizon in the latitude 66* 32', the
map which will refult indicates the duration of the day for all the lati*
tudes, by converting into time the difference of longitude of the
meridians which terminate thefe parallels of latitude m each hemi-
iphere.

In general we may, by projeflions on the different circles of the
fphere, refolve the fame queltions as by means of a globe ; and for this
purpofe, charts have been drawn, to which, on account of their pro-
perties, the name of planifpherfs have been given. Father Chryfologue
of Goy has publifhed maps of the world on the horizon of Paris^
carefully conilrudled, conveniently mounted^ and adapted to folve
many problems, both aftronomical and geographical, explained in a
pamphlet which accompanies the maps. The fame author has brought
this work to perfe£iion, and has conftruAed new planifpheres on a
much larger fcale.

99. It is not fufficient to reprefent in charts the iituation of places,
the connexions of countries, their extent, their divifions, and their
boundaries, circumftances which belong to mathematical and political
geography j it is likewife required to know the form of the terreftrial
furface in thefe regions, that which is called the fdOi of the c»untry ;
that is to fay whether it is flat or mountainous, open or wooded, dry or
marfhy. Engravers have devifed means, fometimes pi£lurefque, fome*
times arbitrary, to exprefs upon trigonometrical furveys and topogra-
phical charts, thefe different circumftances which, combined with the
climate, and the meteorological phenomena of each country, conftitute
its phyfical Eeography. It is fiiificient to look at a map of this kind

jto recollect the ugns which are employed, and to obferve that the partu,,
more or lefs flrongly fhaded, reprefent declivities more or lefs fteep, oti
which the light lofes itfelf in proportion as they are more perpen*
dicular. . *

The defigns of geographical charts have been very much behind
thofe for topographical purpofesy particularly with regard to the

mountain! s

INTRODUCTION.

Ixxi

mountains ; becaufe the extent of the foreils being confiderahly dimi-
niflied in civilized countries, they have nearly difappeared from all
maps ; but the inequalities of the ground, from the moil lofty chains
of mountains} to hills of the loweft order, (hould be expreifed in a
manner correfponding to all the other geographical circum (lances, and
confequently (hould have a place in the details proportionate to their
fize.

Peaks, or infulated points, in general, reft upon elevations more or
lefs confiderable; but the extent of which gives the outlines which
determine the form of the vallies, like the finuonties of the coafts, which
are, with regard to the fea, like the hollows of mountains.

It may be perceived by thefe remarks how vague and infignificant
are thofe iofuiated points which mark the mountains on the majority
of maps. We fee nothing but that the country they occupy is moun-
tainous, and it would be as well to write here are moumains y nothing
indicates the courfe of their chains, their various depreflions, and their
connexions either with each other, or with the iflands formed by the
fummits oT the chains, of fubmarine mountains.

Philippe Buache is the firft who has attached himfelf efpecially to
phyfical geography, and who has given a precife idea of the branches
of the different chains of mountains on the earth conne£led with the
inequalities of the bottom, of the depth of the fea, by means oi found'
ingt marked on nautical charts. lie conftrufled, with great care, a
globe, on which thefe forms were expreifed in relief, certainly in aa
exaggerated manner with refpeft to the diameter of the globe, becaufe,
without this, it is impoflible to render them perceptible. fN®42.) la
the charts which he compofed on this fubjedl, he indieatea the chains
of mountains by the outline of their fummits, to which he joined pro-
files or feAions, following given lines, on which he conftruAed, from
a convenient fcale, the heights of different points of the terreftrial
furface. He traced with particular care, in I736» a fe£tion following
the line which pafles from Cape Tagrin to Rio Grande, in which direc-
tion Africa and America approach the nearell to eai'Ji other, and which
pafles near the iflands fituated in the middle of the great ocean which
•feparates thefe two continents.

Several authors, taking advantage of this original idea, and afllfted by
new information acquired on tliis lubje6l, have publiflied maps of the
world, and charts which may be confulted with great propriety tQ
acquire a knowledge of the great inequalities of the terreilrial furiace ;
but precife means are yet wanting to reprefent them, and to render
their rcfpedive altitudes obvious.

lOO. Profiles leave nothing to be defired with refpe6t to precifion ;
but it is fcarcely poflible to multiply them fufliciently to give in every
^redlion the form of every part of the furface of the earth.

It is obvious, that if upon a nautical chart all the points where the
foundings are equal be conne6led by a line, the form of this line will
h^ that of a fe6tion Ofiade at the bottom of the fea, by a horizont^
plane, deprefled below the furface of the fluid, by a quantity equal
to the number of the ineafures or fathoms contained in the founding.
M.Duflain Triel has devifed a method, as ingenious as fatisfaftoryt
to reprefent geometrically the form of the furiace of a country. This
method confiits in tracing on the map to be conftrui£led lines which pafs
throuffh ppints at the fame level or altitude above the furface of th«
fea } unc9 which would iucccflively becoo^i ban^s, if the fea could,

*4 ty

'^■■^...Ljmmfmmom-,^m^^

Ixxl!

INTflODUCTION,

by any canfe whatever, be raifed to that altitude : as the lines wbiofiij!
join the equal foundings would become banks, if it could be ft^nk t<f
the number of fathoms expreflVd in the foundings.

The heights of thefe lines, or horizontal feftiona, are gniduatedl
accordmg to the fcale of the map, and the fteepnefs of their ^clivities.
Upon a projet of a map of France which he has publifhed, M. DufTain
Triel has drawn, in the level countries and near the fea-coaft, a line
■which paffes through the points which have ten toifes of altitude]
then that which paffes through twenty, and fo on fucceflively througl^
every ten toifes. Thefe lines, at firft thinly fcattered, become clofer
as the country rifes more rapidly. Near infulated mountains thefe
. ]ines, which are only marked at the diftances of 50 or 100 toifes,
approach each other according as the inclinations are more or lefs
Aeep ; this may be eafily conceived, by obferying that the lines traced
©n the map are the projeftions of lines on the fame level, drawn on the
terreftrial furface, and that they ought to be thicker on the mountains
for the fame reafon that the (paces are contradled on the edges of 9
jnap projefted orthographically. (N''65.)

It is alfo obvious ♦liat the Plateaux are reaiarkable for the level
lines which furround them, and which mark the outline of their boun*
daries.

Finally, if we imagine other lines to interfeft the horizontal lines at
right angles, thefe will be the lines of the greate/l inclination^ or thofe
which follow the courfe of (he waters running over the fides of the
mountains.

If horizontal lines were always traced on maps, befides the advan-
tage of adopting the methods of the geometry of planet and furfaces
(defcriptive geometry) for the refolution pf problems, on the mter-
fedtion of horizontal and inclined planes, very important in the con-
ilrudlion of roads and canals ; they would be the means of colleding
and bringing forward to the world a number of furveys and obfery-
ations made by civil and military engineers on the heights of moun-
tains, and the rcfults of which are buried with the government plans ;
and the advantage which might be derived from them would excite
iravcllcrs and men of fcience refiding in great cities to multiply thofe
barometrical obfervations which give the refpedlive altitudes of the
places where they are made *.

It is not neceflary to have correfponding obfervations at every
ilation ; it is fufUcient to procure fucn a number of obfervations as
will enable us to deduce the mean height of the barometer in that place
with certainty. The comparifon of the mean heights peculiar to the
different ftations enables us to afcertnin the difTerciit altitudes of thefe
nations. Tliis method, which would not be fufficiently exaA if it
was requifite to compare Itations but little elevated above each other,
and not far diflant, becomes very important with regard to points too
far diftant to admit of their being trigonometrical operations.

It has been objected, it is true, agamit the conllrudion of horizontal
lines upon charts, that they render them confufcd ; but this incon-
venience, however ferious it may be, cannot be compared with the
utility of the objcfts dcfcribed above ; befides, it may be partly
remedied by dilUnguifhing with a particular colour the horizontal
lines.

• The Abbe CIrippe furvey«d, in this manner, In T?^!, the rond fr«ra Brcft to
TubuUk, and gave thv refults in the nauative of his jouincv,

I (hall

INTROBUCTION.

Ixsii)

1 /hall obferve on tins fubjeft, that even topographical objefts, where
Ithey ijre ftrongly exprefled by the gravt"-, do not allow of many place*
being defignated on one map, and compel us to adopt a larger fcale.
^owevcr, if it cannot be ptherwife contrived, each country may be re-
prefented by two charts on the fame plan ; one containing the detail of
fhe places : the other, only inclpding the mofl remarkable points, might
contain the horizontal lines.

loi . When the lail mentioned charts cannot be obtained, it is poflible,
by an examination ot the courfe of the water and its branches, to deduce
JTome general indications of the form of the ground in the different coun-
tries of the globe.

The water which falls from the fides of mountains and hills, col-
lefting itfelf in torrents and rivers, either immediately, or after having
penetrated into the interior of the earth, as far as the clayey ftratum
which flops its progrefs, traces upon the terreftrial furface the lims of
file greateji inclination, which approach nearer to the level of the fea in
proportion as the courfe of the water is prolonged.

The codrfe of the ptincip"'. rivers on a map, mdicates the low part of
the moft confidenible vallies. Thefe vallies are bounded by high lands,
which are ag^in interfered by fecondary vallies, through which run thofe
fivers which empty themfelves into the lirfl.

In the fame manner other fmaller vallies are diftinguiflied by flill lef$
confiderable rivers ; fo that the whole coui-fe of water forms a fort of
net-work, of which the threads interfedt at very ohtufe angles.

Jf we afcend as far as the fource of the largeft riyers, and to that
of their fecondary rivers which join them near their fource, we fhaH
generally arrive at the mod elevated points. We may deduce, therefore,
with a very few exceptions, the fteepnefs of a declivity from the greater
or lefs degree of curvature in the bed of tlic river ; but that which h
more particularly worthy of attention, are thofu parts where the water
divides itfelf into oppofite directions, and runs into different feas or lakes.
It is there that the points ofdivifion are found, the determination of which
is the principal bafis of the conllrudlion of navigable can ills, intended to
connedl one fea with another. It was by difcovering with great faga-
city, by the infpe«Slion only of the form of the Black Mountain, the ponit
of fcparation of its flreams towards the ocean and towards the Meaiter-
ranean, that Francic Aiidroofly conceived the plan and the pofTibility of
executing a canal towards the fouth, the fincfl work of this dcfcription
that has ever been attempted. His great grandfon, Andrcoffy, the
general of artillery, was the rtril to devclope, in his interelling hiilory of
the fame canal, the confidcrations which ought to ferve as a guide, in a
furvey intended to difcover the points of feparation and re-union of the
fti earns intended to fill a canal.

Two engineers of bridges and high roads, M. Dupuy and M. BrifFon,
have alfo, in a very ingenious manner, referred the charaiters, indicative
of thefe circumdanceti, to the forms of geometrical furfaces. Their
memoir, prefented to the Inflitute, will no doubt be very foon printed.

I02. lo particularize the fummary ideas which I have juil piefented«
I fliall now point out their application.

At the full jjlauce over a gene.al map of Afia, it muft be obferved
that the great rivers wliich terminate in the Indian, the Chincfe, and the
Northern feas, rife in Thibet and to the north of the country of the
^leutheri, from which it appears that thefe countries are furroundcd
with very high mountains, and hero is found the highcft plain in Afia,
which is the \iAk of thci'e muuiituiui. Frum this plain three deoUvitiei

are

htxW

INTRODUCTION.

•redirefted towards each- of the above-mentioned feat; thefe declivities
are iaterfe£ted by the branches of the mountains in which the auxiliary:
^reams of thefe rivers have their fource.

Even if the mountains of KamenoipayaS) which feparate Ruflla in
Xurope from RulTia in Afia, were not marked upon the map, the almofl
oppoHte dire&iun of the Oby and Peezara, and that of the rivers which
fail into the Northein Ocean to the weft of the Strait of Waygats, and
into the White Sea, would indicate them.

In the fame manner, we obferve an elevated plain between the Black
lea>tbe Cafpian, the Mediterranean, and the Perfian gulf. The Cafpian
fea, the lake of Aral in Afia, and that lake where the Niger lofes itfelf
jn Africa, are, on the contrary, the low parts where thofe declivities
meet on which the rivers flow that defcend along their fides.

103. Having explained the aftronomical methods for the determi«
nation of places diftant from each other, and the means of delineating
thefe places, either by the con(lru6tioD of globes or maps, and alfo
fiiewn how thefe maps fhould be tilled up, by the combination of trigo-
Bometrical plans, with the narratives of travellers or hiftoiians, the ufe
that may be n.ade of thefe various reprefentations, and the conclufions
that may be drawn from them relative to the inequalities of the furface
of the earth, I have fulfilled the objeft which I propofed to myfelf in
this Introdu6tion. In only contains, in fadt, the rudiments of the im-
portant fubjefts which I have treated ; but it k t}ie firft time that they
Bare been coUefted and methodically arranged. I therefore flatter
myfelf that I have fome claim to the indulgeiice of the reader, who
bemg put into the proper rqad to purfuc thi^ ftudjr, cannot fail of finding
fources from which he may obtain more detailed information. The
original works are well known : the improvement which geography has
received from the meafurc of the arc of the meridian ; from the great
ynilitary operations, and from the recent labours of government, are con-
tinually improving thefe methods, and obtaining more fatisfadlory re*
fults*.

• Th« topographical «nd millttry memorSit, ab-idgfd for the v»r department, prefentt
a methodiMl expoGtioR. I'here is aifo in Geruuiiy a Jouriflii devoted to Kcogtaphy,
coiiduiUd bj M.de Zocb.

TABLES

INTRODUCTION,

Ixxff

TABLES

RELATINO TO THE

MAGNITUDE AND FIGURE OF THE EARTH.

TABLE. L

A Table of the Meridional Degrees of the Terreftrial Spheroid calcu-
lated to every Degree of Latitude.

Englifh
Feet.

Diff.

Lar.ofthe
middle Point.

Englifti
Feat.

DiflT.

Engliih

Fc«i.

Diff.

o
I

3
4

7
H

«4
i5»

»7
i8

«9

20
21
22

*3
*4

362909
362910
362913
362918
362925

362934
362945
362958
362973
362989
363007
363027

363049

363073
363099
363127

$^V57
363189

363**3
363258

363*95
363333
363370
363410

363451

363494

363538

363583
363629

363676

5
7

9
II

»3

15
16

26
28
30
3*
34
35
37
S^

39
40

4»
43
44

47
48

30
31

3*
33
34
35
36

37
38

39
40

45
46

47
48

49
50
5»
5*

53
54
5S
5<i

57
58

3637*4

363773
363823

363874
363926

363979
364033
364088

364144
364201
36425b

3643^5
36437*
364430
364488
364546
364604
364662
364720
364777
364834
364 "-9 »
364948
365004
365059

365««3
365160

365218

365269

3693'9
J6^^

50
51
5*
53
54

57
57
57
57
57
5«
58
58
58
57
57
57
57
57
56
S5
54
53
5*
5»
50
49

,60
61
62

65
66

67
68

75
76

77
78

79
80
81
82

83
84

85
86

87
88

89
90

365368
365416

365463
365509

365554
365598
365641
365682
365722
365761

365799
365836

365871

365904

365935
365965

365993
366019

366043
366065
366084
366102
3661 18
366133
366146
366159
366168

366175
366180
366183
366184

47
46

45
44
4»
42

39
38
37
35
33
31

30
28

26
*4

j8
.16

»5

'3
ij

7
5

|n the above Table, the elliptioity is fuppofed .^4^, the degree at the
equator, and at 4c" taken from adual mcafurt'meut ; and the other
degrees calcuUted according to the rules explained in the text.

hsxd^

INTRODUCTION*

TABLE II.

A Table of Perpendicular Degrees on the Spheroid calculated to ev«y
Degree of the Meridian in Enghfli Feet, (Ellipticity = -^j^).

Lat

Perp. 1 )cg.

Diff.

Lat.

Perp.I)eg.

DifF

Lat.

Peirp. Dee

. i>iff

365094

365360

365920

365095

3»

365377

,61

365937

3^5097

365395

365953

15
14

13
12

3
4

365099
365102

33
34

365413
36543*

18
18

63
64

365969
365984

365106

■

365449

365998

365110

•

365468

366011

7
8

» 3651 15
365120

37
38

365487
365506

19
19

67
68

366023
36*035

3^5^^5

^655^5

366047

365131

365544

366058

365138

365563

366069

365146

365S^^

366079

365156

365601

366089

36J163

•

365620

366099

365172

365640

366 I oS

365181

365660

366117

365191

365679

366126

365201

365698

366134

365211

365717

19.

366141

365222

365736

366148

365233

5»

365755

366154

365245

365774

366159

365257

365793

366164

365269

.3 ^+

365812

366168

365282

365831

366172

365296

365849

366176

36531 1

365667

366179

365327

3658H5

366181

»9

365343 *

»7

^65903

366183

30 1

3<5^3^ I

365920

3661U4

fKl'RODUCTION..

Ixxvii

TABLE in.

Tabic of the Degrees oT Longitude on the Spheroid ; to every Degree
of Latitude, computed in Fathoms, the EUipticity being fuppofed ^\-^,

»7
i6

i6
»5

12
»
12
II
II
10
10
10

9
8

7
7
6

4
4
4
3

a
1

Lat.

O
I

3
4

7
8

II
12

^3
H

'7
18

»9
20
21
22

»3

»4

Degrees
of Longi-
tude.

Fathoms.

60849

60840

60812

60766

60702

60619

60518

60899

60261

60105

59931
59738

59527
59299

Diff.

46
54

lOI

119

138
156

174
192

210

228

246
59053 I 25^

282

ad
Dii

ffi

«7
38

58789
5S507
58207
57890

57554
57209

56828

56438
56031
55608
55169

547 H
54H3
53756
y3a53

300
318

33<>
354

372

390
407

423

489

455

471
487

503
519

«9
18

»9

18
18

'7
16

Lat.

30
31
32

33
34
35*
36

37
38

39
40

41
42

43
44
45
46

47
48

49
50

51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58

59
60

Degrees
of Longi-
tude.

Diff.

Fatlioms.

52734 I 536
52198 ■

51646
51078

55^

568

584

5^494 600

49894 ' 615

49279 ' 630
48649

48004

47344
46670
45982 I
45280 '
44564
43834 '

43091 !

Diff.j

Lat.

645

660
674

688
702
716

730

743

1756
+"35 769

41566 ig^

40784

39989
3918 1

3836X

37530
36688

$59^5
34971
34096

332x1

31409

i^o^

795
808

220

842

853
864

875

886

896

906

916

16
16
16
16

J5
15
'5
15
H

Degrees
of Lbiigi-
turfe.

II
II
II
II

60
61
62
65
64
65
66

67
68

72
73
74
75
76
77
78

79
80

83
84

85
86

••7
8S

89
ill

F.-ithoms.

30493
29568

28634

27691

2673*

25778

24810

23835
22852
21863
20866
19863
18854
17839

1 68 18
15792
14762

»3727

12687

1 1 643

10596

9546

8493

7437

6379

SS19

4*57

3194
2130

1065^

0000

Diff

925

934
943
952

960
968
9,76

983

990

997
1003

1009

1015

102 1

1026

1030

»035
1040
1044
1047
1050

X053
X056

1058

1060

1062

1063

1064

X065

1065

ad
Diff

9
8

,'i

6
6
6

3
2

Ixkviii

INTRODUCTION.

TABLE IV.

Table

of Degrees

Longitude on the

Spl

lore to every

' Degree of

Latitude.

Lat.

Fathoms

Diff.

Diff.j ^''*-

Fathoms.

DifF.

Id
Diff.

Lat

Fathoms.

Di£

DifF.

60758

• ^\

•

53618

538

,60

30379

923

50749

'""°'S5*

29456

932

60721

f f^

J'^^^Uyo

* \J

15
16

28524

940

60674

5°9;« ; jgj"

27584

949

60610

»5
»5

15
H
15
•3
15
»3
H
>4

26635

958

5
6

60527
60425

102

120

^9
18

35
36

'59770|6,6
49b-4 63,

65
66

25677
24712

965
972

60305

139

48523

646

23740

979

60166

156

1 r\

47878

660

22760

986

60010

175

'9
18

47218

675

21774

993

6
6

59835
59642

193
212

»9

19
t8

40
4»

46543
45855

688

703

70
7»

20781
19782

999
1005

»3

59430
59201

229
248

45152
4443<5

716

730

72
73

18777
17766

JOII

1017

58953

26?

43706 ^^^

16749

1022

58688 ^g;

^'^^' 756

«3
12

1 2

15727

1027

58404

301

»7

42206

769

14700

1032

4
4
3
3

»7
i8

58103

319

337

«7
17

47
48

4>437
40655

782
794

77
78

13668
12633

1006
1040

57447

354

39861

S06

»«593

»043

57093

371

39054

818

12
1 1

10550

1046

56722

ssr,

•7
18

f ^

5»

39235

830

9505

1049

5O334

406

37406

841

I I

8456

1052

55928

423

»7

17
x6

»7

»7
16

36565

852

7404

1054

2
4

55505

440

35713

864

635*

1056

I
t

25
36

55065

54609

45fi
473

5S
56

34849
33975

874
884

10
10

85
86

5295
4238

1057
1058

54»3<5

<90

33091

894

3180

1059

53646

see

32197

904

1 v/

2121

1060

53»40

522

1 v

3»293

914

1 w

1060

_ 30 1 520x81

•M

60 1 30379 1

1^,^

cooo

introduction:

*M^

TABLE V.

Table of Decimal Degrees of Longitude on a Spliere.

Degree of

^^B

Latitude

in Decimal

Degrees.

Degrees of

Longitude.

Latitude

in Decimal

Degrees.

Degrees of

Luiigitude.

Latitude

m Decim.il

Degree«.

Deirees <S
Longitude.

Kiliometres.

Kiliometpet.

100,000
99,988

86,074
85,264

€8
69

48,175
46,793

■

99.95'

84>433

45.399

W g

99,889

83.5«'

7«

43.994

93* 9

99,803

82,708

42,578

94^ 9

99,692

81,815

41,151

949 5

99>556

80,902

39."5

958 7

■

99.39<5

4«

79^968

38,268

965 7

99,211

79»oi5

36,812

972 7

99,002

78.043

35.347

.979 7
986

98,769

77*05 >

33.874

98,511

76,040

32,392

993 6

98,229

75,on

30,902

999 6

■

97,922

73.963

29,404

1005 g

97»59*

72,897

27,899

JOII g

97*237

7'.8i3

26.387

1017

96,858

70,711

24,869

1022

«7

96^456

5«

69,591

23.344

1027

96,029

68455

21,814

1032
1006

»9

95^579

67,301

20,279

(

95,106

66,131

18,738

1040

94,608

64,945

17.193

1043 3
104.6

94,588

5<5

63.742

15.643

94.544

62,524

14,090

*049 3

92,978

61,291

12.533

1052

92,388

60,042

io>973

>o54 a
1056 J

91.775

58,778

9,411

91,140

57»5oo

7.846

»0S7 ,

90.483

56^208

6,279

1058

89,803

54,902

4.7 u

>059 1

89,101

53.583

3»»4»

1060 ^

88,377

52,250

i.57«

1060 ,

3»
33

87.631
86,863

66
67

50»904
49,546

100

0,000

6cx»

iNTRODUGTiON.

tABLE VI.
' Of ISecimal Degrees of Latitude, the EUipticity being fuppcfed -j'^l

Lat.

Degrees ol
Latitittie.

Differ.

i..it.

Degrees of
Latitude.

Differ

Lat.

Degrees of
Latitude.

Differ.

; o.

Metres.

Metros.

; o

99552.5

0.4
0.9

»-3
1 8

99802.2

127

100269

99552.9

998149

100280 2

1 1*2

! 2

99; ^3-8

99827.8

12.9

131
132

'34
13.6

100291 1

10.9
106

99555 •»

3«

99840.9

10030 1. 7

1 '^

99556.9

2 I

99854.1

1003 I 2 .0

10.3

1 5

99559.0

2 8

99867.5

JOO322.O

1 0.0

; <5

99561.8

3-0
3-5
3-9
4-3

4.8

5.1

5-6

5-9
6.4

6.7

. 7'i
74
8-0
8.3

8 6

4»

99881.0

ICO33I.7

9-7

99564.7

99894.6

"77

10034 1. 1

i 8

99568.2

99908.3

'37
138

'39

14.0
14.0
14.1
14.1

14.1

14. 1
14.0
140

139

T 5 n

100350.1

90
8.7
8.4

99572.1

99922.1

100358.8

: lO

99576.4

99936.0

100367.2

III 99581.2
12 ^5J??86.3

99950.0
99964.0

81
82

100375.1
100382.7

7-9
7.6

99591.^

99978.0

100389.9

7-2

6.9
6.4

6.1

56
5.2

4.8
44

99597.8

99992.1

100396.8

99604.2

100006.2

100403.2

99610.9

100020.3

100409.3

99618.0

IOQO34.4

IOO4I4.9

99625.4

100048.4

IOC42O I

996334
99G41.6

54
55

ICC062 4
ICOO76.3

89
90

100424.9
100429.3

13 9

3 9

99650.2

8.9

9-3
9.6
9.9

10.2

10.5
10 8

1 00090.2

137

'3-7
136

«3 4

15 9

100433.2

36
2.6

2 2

1.8

1-3
0.9

0.4

99659.1

IOOIO3.9

1C0436 8

23
24

«5

99668 4
99678.0
99687.9

5«

59
60

IOOII7.6
JOOI31 2
IOOI44.6

93
94
95

1004^9.9
100442.5
100444.7

99698.1

100157.9

^3-3

131
13.0
12.8
12.6

123

12.2

100446.5

99708.6

IOOI7J.O

100447.8

29
30

99719.4

997305
99741.9

II. Z
1 1.4

.t.6
1 1.8

1 00 1 84.0
100196.8
ICO209.4

99
100

100448.7
100449.2

99753 5

ICO22I.7

99765-3

12. 1

100233.9

12.0

997774

12.3
12.5

100245,9

11.7
1 1.5

99789.7

100257.5

99802.2

100269.0

mmmm

i^,i'V>-

INTRODUCTION.

Ixxxi

TABLE VII.

jofed 7*^;

9
I

•9
•3

56
5.2
4.8
4.4

39
3.6

2.6

2 2
1.8

1-3
0.9

0.4

Of decimal Degrees of Longitude, the Ellipticity being fuppofed ^ |^.

Lat.

G.
O
I

3
4
5

7
8

9
10

II
12

»3
H
>5

»7
18

21
22
23

H
«5

27
28

29
30

33
34

Degrees of

Longitude.

Metres.
IOOI49.4
IOOI37.I
1 001 00.3
100038.9

99953-0
99842.5

DU&r.

99707.6
99548.2

99364-3
99156.2

989*3-6

98666.8
98385.8
98080.6

9775>-3
97398.1

97020.9
96616.9
96195.1
95746.8
95274.9

94779.6
94260.9
93719.1

931542
92566.4

91955.8
91332.6
90666.9
89988.9
89288.6

88566.4
87822.4
87056.7
86269.5

12.3
36.8
61.4
85.9
110.5

1349

159.4
183.9
208.1
232.6

256.8

2810
305.2
329-3

377-2

401.0
424.8
448.4
471.9

495-3
518.7
541.8
564.9
587.8

610.6

633.2

655-7
678.0

700.3

722.2

744.0
765.7
787.2
808.5

Lat.

35
36
37

Degrees of
Longitnde.

Differ.

Metres.
85461.0
84631.4
83780.6

38 I 82909.7

39 82018. 1

4«

43
44
45

8iio6.a

47
48

45>
50

51
52

53
54
55

80174.1
79222.3
78250,9
77260.1
76250.1

75221.3

74173-8
73108.0
72024.0
70922.1

69802.6
68665.8
67512.0
66341.3
651542

59
60

63
64

66
67
68
69

63950.9
62731.7
61496.8
60246.7
58981.5

57701.6
56407.4
55099.1

53777-'
52441.7

51093.1

49731.8

48358.3
46972.4

yp.'i^m

829.6
850.5
871.2
891.6
911.9

932.1

9518
971.4
990.8
1010.0

10288

1047.5
1065.8
1084.0
1 101.9

IU9.5

1136.8

"53-7
H70.7
1187.1

1203.3

1219.2

'234-9
1250.1
1265.2

1279.9

1294.2
'308.3
1322.0

'335.4

1348.6

i36'3
I37J6
1385.8

1397.^,

liab

73
74

79
80

l^
84

87
88

89
90

9'
92

93
94
95

97
98

100

Degrees ot

Longitude.

Differ.

Metres.

45574-8
44165.9
42746.0

4'3'5-3
39874*4
38423.4

36962.8
354930

340'4-2
32527.0
31031 6

29528.5
28017.9
26500.3
24976.1

23445.6

21909.2
20367.3
18820.3
17268.6
15712.6

14152.6
12589.0
11022.3

9452.9
7881.0

6307.2

473 '-8

S'55-7
1577.8

0.0

X408.9
I4I9.9

'4307

'440-9
1451.0

1460.6

1469.8
1478.8
1487.2
1495.4

1508. 1

1510.6
1517.^
1524.2

'530.5
'536.4

'54'»9

15470

'55'-7
1556.0

X560.0

i563»6
1560 7
1569.4
1571.9

1573.8

'575-4
1576.1

'5779
1577.8

hixii

INTRODUCTIOK.

NEW FRENCH MEASURES.

Millimetre •
Centimetre
Dicimetre
Metre
Decametre
.Hecstometre •
Chiliometre
Myriometre -

S^8t

EagUih tnclief,

.39371

3»937JO

39»37ioo

593,71000

3937,10000

. 3937i/X}ooo

393710,00000

A Mietre i0.t,o936]f yards^ tie nearly one yard i| nail, or443«S959 line»

Fr., or ,513074 toifes.
A Decametre is 10 yards, 2 feet, 9,7 inches^
,A Hecatonietre is 109 yards, i foot, i inclv.
A Chiliometre 4 furlongs, 213 yards, i foot, t inch.
A Micrometre,, 6 miles,. I furlong, i^6yard8,^o feet,^6 inches.
Eight Chiliometres are nearly five- nules.
An inch is 40254 miles, 2441 inches, 62 metres,. 1000 feet, nearly 303^

metres^
An Are, a iquare deeametre, is 3,95 perches,. E. t

A Hecatate, 2 acrest 1 rood^ 35,4 perehesti.

Cubic Inches.

Millifitre • • •

,06103

Centilitre

,61628

Decilitre- - - -

6.10280

Litre, a cubic Decimetre

6y 102800

Decalitre - - -

610,28000

Hecatolitre . • -

6102,80000

Chiliolitre - . .

61028,00000

.Myriolitre . - .

6IO28O1OOOOO

A Litre it nearly 2} wine pints ; 14 Decilitres are nearly three wior

pints ; a Chiliolitre is i tun, 12,75 ^'"^ gallons^
A Dedftre for firewood is 3,5317 cubic feet £•
A Stere, a cubic meafure. ^

.4...

A TABLE

M'-f

iree wine-

TABLE

OF THE

LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES

• OP THE

PRINCIPAL PLACES ON THE EARTH'S SURFACE.

f»

. ^JltKit-^..

TABLE

OF THB

LATITUDES and LONGITUDES

OF T«E

PJUNCIPAL PJ ACES ON THE EARTH'S SURFACE.

a
1

Names of Platoes.

C!ont.

Sea or
Ccmtry.

Latitude.

Longitude.
In Degree?. In Time.

H.W.

O 11

/ //

h » "

h '

AbbeviUe

Eur.

France

50 7 4N

I 49 43 E

7 >9E

Abo

Eur.

Finland

60 27 loN

%% 13 30 E

I a8 54 E

Achem

Afla

SumatM

5 a» oN

95 34 oE

6 aa 16 E

Advtnture (Bay)
Adventure (Ifle)

Afia

N.Holland

43 as S

147 30 E

9 50 oE

Afia

Pac. Ocean

17 J 15 s

144 17 45W

9 37 "W

Agde

Eur.

France

43 18 43 N

3 »7 55 E

13 5a E

Agen

Eur.

France

44 i» saN

36 10 E

a a5 £

St Agnes (lights)

Eur.

Scillies

49 56 oN

646 oW

oa7 4W

Agra

Afia

India

a6 43 oN

76 44 E

5 656E

Aire

Eur.

Firance

43 41 5»N

4 55 51 E

19 43 E

Aix

Eun

France

43 31 48 N

5 a6 3» E

ai 46E

Alby

Eur.

France

43 55 36 N

a 8 18 E

8 83E

Aleppo

Afia

Turkey

35 " »5N

37 «o oE

a a8 40E

Alexaddretta

Afia

Syria

36 3J a7N

36 15 oE

a a5 o£

Alexandria

Af.

Egypt

31 II a8N

30 10 %% E

a 41 £

Algiers

Af.

Alters

36 49 30 N

a i» 45 E

8 5xE

Amboire

Eur.

France

47 14 54 N

059 7W

3 56W

Ambrym (Ifle)

Afia

Pac. Ocean

16 9 30 S

168 la 30 E

II ia 50 E

Amiens

Eur.

France

49 5i 43 N

a 17 56 E

9 laB

Amfterdam

Eur.

Holland

St 11 56 N

4 51 30 E

19 a6£

3
8 30

Amfterdam (Ifle)

Afia

Pac. Ocean

ai 90S

174 46 oW

II 39 4W

Ancona

Eur.

Italy

43 37 54 N

13 a8 5a E

53 56 E

Angers

Eur.

France

47 a8 9N

33 X5W

a 13W

Angouleme

Eur.

France

45 3857N

9 15 £

a6E

Angra

Eur.

Tercera

38 39 oN

a7 la 15 W

I 48 49W

Annamocka

Afia

Pac. Ocean

10 16 30 S

174 30 30W

II 38 aw

St. Anthony's (Cape)

Am.

Suten Land

54 46 4? S

Antibea

Eur.

France

43 34 4iN

7 7 »oE

a8 «9E

Antigua (St. John's)

Am.

Carib.Se«

17 4 30N

6a 9 o\i

4 836W

Antwerp

Eur.

Flanders

51 13 15 N

4 »» 45E

17 31 £

Anvers

Eur.

Netherlands

51 13 15 N

4 »4 15 I

17 37 E

Ap« (Ifle)

Afia

Pac. Ocean

16 46 15 fl

168 *7 30 E

II 13 JO E

Aia£la

Afia

Turkey

36 1 ON

38 30 El a 35 ao TL\ ^\

The

I«i

'!Ji2i3£ii«iuA>

Imvi

INTRODUCTION.
Thi Latiiudet and iMigitudes of Placet,

NanetofPUcei.

Cont

Sea or
Gauntry.

Latitude.

Longitude.
In Degrees. In Time.

H.W.

1 n

/ ff

h ' »

h '

ARbamel

Eur.

Ruflia

64 3.3 36 N

38 59 "5 E

» 35 57 E

Arica

Am.

Peru

18 s6 38 S

70 25 ow

4 41 40W

Arlea '

Eur.

Franca

43 40 »8N

4 37 ME

18 30 £

Am»

Eur.

France

50 17 30 N

2 46 12 £

It 5 E

AlcenlioB (lile)

Af.

S. At. Ocean

7 57 OS
38 5 ON

13 59 «W

55 56W

Athens

Eur.

Turkey

23 5» 30 E

4^5 30 E

Aueh ^

Eur.

France

43 38 39 N

34 56 F

o^» 18 E

St.Auguftia

Af.

MadagaTcar

a3 35 a9 S

43 8 oE

2 52 32 E

Aurillae

Eur.

France

44 55 IPN

2 27 OW

9 48W

Aurora (Ifle)

Afia

Pac. Ocean

15 8 ON

168 17 o£

II 13 8£

Autun

Eur.

France

46 56 48 N

4 17 44E

17 II E

Auxerre

Eur.

France

47 47 57 N

3 34 6E

14 16 E

Auxonira

Eur.

France

47 II 24 N

5 a3 35 E
4 48 xo £

21 34 E

Avtgnoa

Eur.

France

43 56 j8N

19 13 £

Avranchet

Eur.

France

48 41 21 N

X ai jiW

5 »7W 11

Babelmandel Stnha

Af.

Abyfllnia X2 50 oN

43 50 E

2 55 ao E

Babylon (Ancient)

Afia

Mefopotam.

33 ON

42 46 30 E

2 51 6E

BagLi

Afia

Mefopoum.

33 19 40N

44 U 30 E

a 57 38 E

Balafere

Afia

India

XI 20 oN

86 oE

5 44 oE

B4llabea(Ifle)

Afia

N.Caledonia

20 7 S

164 22 E

10 57 28 E

Banguey (Peak)

Afia

Malacca

7 18 cN

H7 17 30 E

7 49 to E

Bantry Bay

Eur.

Ireland

51 06 oN

10 10 CW

40 40W

Barbadoei, B.Town

Am.

Atl.Oceaa

13 oN

59 50 oW

3 59 aoW

Barbat (Cape)

Af.

Sanhaga

23 15 30 N

16 40 OW

I 6 40W

Barbuda (ide)

Am.

AtL Ocean

17 49 45 N

61 J6 oW

4 7 »oW

Barcclma

Eur.

Spain

41 »3 oN

» 13 o£

8 52E

Bamevelt'a (Ifle)
St.BartlKilomewVIfle)

Am.

T.delFuego

J5 49 OS

66 58 6W

4 »7 5»W

A6a

N.Hebrides

15 42 S

167 17 30 E

II 9 loE

Bam

Eur.

Switserland

47 35 oN

7 29 30 E

2Q 58 E

BaflkTcirt

Am.

Guadeloupe

15 59 30 N

61 59 «5W

4 7 57W

Bauvia

Afia

Java

6 12 S

106 53 46 E

7 7 35E

Bath

Eur.

England

51 22 30 N

1 21 30W

9 26W

Baycux

Eur.

France

49 «6 34 N

42 llW

S49W

Bayonna

Kur.

France

43 »9 >5N

X 28 4i^V

J55W

3 30

Beachy Head

Eur.

England

50 44 30N

19 40 E

I 19 E

10
12

Bau (Ifle)

Am.

HudHBay

54 34 oN

79 56 oW

5 X944W

Beauvoii

Eur.

France

49 26 oN

2 4 4* E

8 19E

BeUalfla

Eur.

France

47 17 >7N

3 5 oW

12 20W

» 30

Bembridga Point

Eur.

IflaofWt.

50 40 15 N

I 445W

4 19W

Bencoolan

Afia

L matra

3 49 »6 S

102 10 30 E

6 48 4« £

Berlin

Bur.

Germany

52 31 30 N

13 22 (f£

53 28 E

Bermudu (Ifle)

Am.

AtL Ocean

3» 35 ON

63 28 oW

4 13 5» E

Be(kn$on

Eur.

France

47 14 i»N

6 2 46E

24 It E

Bcfiers

Eur.

France

43 ao 2.^ N

3 i» a4E

12 50 E

Blanco (Cape)

Af.

Negroland

20 S5 30 N

17 10 oW

I 8 40W

9 45

Blanco (Cape)

Am.

Paugonia

47 20 S

64 41 oW

4 18 48W

Bloi*

Eur.

France

47 35 »<-*'

I 20 10 E

5 ao E

Badaior (Cape)
Bolabola (Ifle)

Af.

Negroland

26 12 30 N

14 27 OW

57 48W

Afia

Pac Ocean

16 32 30 8

151 52 OW

to 7 28W

Bologna

Eur.

FraiKk

50 43 33 N

I 36 33 E

6 26E

10 30

Bolflfna

Eur.

luly

44 X9 36 Nl II tt 15 E

45 »5 E

c
c

C
Ci
Ci

TJk$

INTRODUCTIOW.

The Latitudes and Longitudes of Plaets*

lx»«ft

3 30
o 10

lis o
a 30

7 o
9 45

o o
10 30

Names of l^laces.

Cont.

Sea or
Country.

Latitude.

Longitude.
In Degrees. In Time.

[»«-1W •

1 II

t II

h ' It

h '

Bdfchereikoi

Afia

Siberia

Si 54 30 N

156 37 30 E

10 a6 3o£

Bombay

Afia

India

18 56 40 N

7a 38 E

4 JO 3» E

■ ,

Bonavifta (Ifle)

Af.

.^tl. Ocean

16 6 oN

aa 47 tjW

131 9W

Bflfton

Am.

N. England

4* %% XI N

70 J9 oW

4 43 J6W

Bouny Bay

Afia

N. HoUand

34 S

tji ai oE

10 J 34 £

■
■

Botany (lOand)

Afia

N. Caledonia

24 a6 40 S

167 16 4j E

H 9 7E

Bourbon (Ifle)

Af.

[nd. Ocean

ac) 51 43 S

55 30 E

3 4a oE

Bourdeaux.

Eur.

France

44 JO 14 N

34 14W

a 17W

Bourges

Et*r.

France

47 4 59 N

* a3 4J E

9 3jE

Breflaw

Eur.

Silefia

5» 3 oN

17 8 45 E

I 83JE

Breft

Eur.

France

48 aa /la N

4 ay 19W

17 J7W

3 45

Bridge Town

Am.

BarhadoM

t3 5 oN

J8 3J OW

3 J4 aoW

St. Brieux

Eur.

France

48 31 at N

a 4.^ 17W

10 J3W

Brighton Start-Houfe

Eur.

England

50 49 48 N

6 a8W

a6W

Briftoi (Cape)

Am.

Sandw. Land

59 a 30 S

a6 JI oW

I 47 a4W

Brufleli

Eur.

Brabant

JO JO J9 N

4 ai IJ E

17 aj E

Buenos Ayres

Am.

Brafil

34 3J a6 S

J8 .11 ijW

3 54 JW

BuJureft

Eur.

Wallathia

44 a6 4j N

a6 8 oE

I 44 3a E

Buller(Cape)

Am.

'>. Georgia

5i 58 30 S

37 40 oW

a 30 40W

Burgeo (Me)

Am.

NewfoundL

47 36 aoN

J7 36 30W

3 JO a4W

Buttings

Eur.

Portugal

39 40 N

9 36 45W

38 a7W

CabeUo (Port)

Am.

TenaFirmalio 30 50 N|

67 3d oW

4 30 8W

Cadis

Eur.

Spain

36 3a oN

6 16 ijW

oaj jW

,4 30

Caen

Eur.

France

49 II laN

ai 53W

I a8W

Cahon

Eur.

France

44 a6 49N

s a6 aa E

J 4jE

Cairo

Af.

Egypt

JO 3 laN

31 18 16 E

« 5 49E

CalaU

Eur.

France

50 57 3a N

X JI t E

7 a4 E

II 30

Calao

Am.

Peru

la 1 Si s

76 j8 oW

J 7 jaW

Calcutta (F.Will)

Afia

India

a* 34 45 N

88 a9 30 B

J 53 58 E

Calmar

Eur.

Sweden

56 40 30 N

16 ai 4j E

I 5 a7 K

Cambray

Cur.

France

JO 10 37,N

3 13 3» E

la 54 E

Cambridge

Eur.

England

ja 14 35 N

4 ijE

17 E

Cambridge

Am.

N. England
Cannries

4a »3 a8 N

71 4 oW

4 44 i6W
1 a3jW

Canary (Ifle) NE.Pt.

Af.

a8 13 N ij 38 45W

Candi.i(lfle)

Eur.

Medit.Sea

3J 18 35 N aj 18 E

I 41 la E

Candlemas Ifle*

Am.

Sandw. Land

57 10 S

a7 13 oW

I 48 #aW

C.uifo (Port)
Canterbury Catliedral

Am.

Nova Scotia

45 ao 7N

60 jj oW

4 3 40W

Eur.

England

51 18 a6N

« 4 53 E

4 19 E

Canton

Afia

Chinn

a3 8 yN

III a 30 E

7 33 10 E

Cape Capricorn

Afia

N. Holland

aj a6 40 S

ao8 j4 aoW 13 JJ J7W

Cupe Clear

Eur.
Afia

Ireland

Ji 15 oN

9 JO oW 39 aoW 4 1

Cape Colenet

N.Ctlcdoiiij

ao 30 08

164 j6 E

10 J9 44 E

Cape Comorin

Afia

India

7 56 oN

78 J oK

J aa ao E

Cape Coionation

Afia

N. Caledonia

aa 5 s

167 8 oE

II 8 3aE

Cape Cumberland

Afia

N. Hebrides

14 39 30 S

166 47 E

II 7 8 E

Cape Florida

Am.

Florida

»5 44 oN

80 44 oW

J aa j6W

Cape Howe

Afia

N.Holland

57 3» 57 S

aio 39 3W

4 a 36W

Cape Table

Alia

N.Zealand

39 6 40 S

181 J7 41W

la 7 J«W

Carlltroon

Eur.

Sweden Ii6 aj7N

IJ a6 IJ E' I I 4j El ||

Thi

-'•liS^i^tamntiifi--

hmwL

1 i

INTRODUCTION.
The Latitude* and Longitudes of Placet",

. Namet^of Flukes,

Cont.

Sea or
Country.

Latitude.

Long!
In Degrees.

tude.
In Time.

H.W.

/ II

/ //

h ' "

h '

Carthagena

Eur.

Spain
Terra Firma

37 37 oN

I 8 30W

434W

Canhagena

Am.

lo iS 19 N

75 4» 54W

5 »5aW

Cafan

Afia

Siberia

S5 4358N

49 8 15 E

3 16 33 E

Caflel

Eur.

Oermany

51 19 aoN

9 35 3 E

38 ao E

Caftre*

Eur.

France

43 36 II N

a 14 x6 E

8 57E

ShCad)erine'a(Ifle}

Am.

AtL Ocean

47 35 OS

49 17 oW

3 17 30W

Cavan

Eur.

Ireland

54 51 41 N

7 23 oW

a9 3aW

Cayenna

Am.

Ifle Cayenne

45615N

5a IS oW

3 a9 oW

C«ylon,S. Point

Afia

India

5 47 oN

81 a o£

5 a4 8E

Cetta

Eur.

France

43 »3 51 N

3 4a 7E

14 48 E

CliaUon

Eur.

France

46 46 54 N

4 51 a/E

19 34 E

Chalous

Eur.

France

48 57 »8 N

4 ai a9 £

17 a6 E

Chandemagor

Afia

India

%% 51 a6N

88 39 15 E

5 53 a7 E

Q. Charlotte Sound

Afia

N. Zealand

41 5 58 S

174 13 3« E

n 36 54 E

Q. Charlotte Foreland

Afia

N. Caledonia

»a 15 S

167 la 45 E

11 8 ji E

Q.Charlotte** Cape

Am.-

S. Georgia

54 3» OS

36 11 30W

a 34 46W

Charlton Ifle

Am.

Kudf. Bay

5» 3 oN

79 J oW

5 16 20W

Chartrei

Eur.

France

48 a6 54 N

I 49 35 E

5 56 E

Cherbourg

Eur.

France

49 38 31 N

I 37 18W

6 a9W

7 30

Chriftmat Sound

Am.

T.dclFuego

55 ai 57 S

-70 a 50W

4 40 iiW

a 30

St.Chriftopher's(ia«)

Am.

Carib. Sea

17 15 oN

6a 43 oW

4 10 jaW

Churchill River

Am.

Hudr. Bay

58 47 3» N

94 7 30W

6 16 30W

7 30

Ctvita Vecchia

Eur.

Italy

4» 5 a4N

15 46 15 E

47 5E

Clerke'i Iflet

Am.

All. Ocean

55 5 30 S

34 4a oW

a 18 48W

Clermoat

Eur.

France

45 46 44 N

3 5 a E

la aoE

Cochin

Afia

India

9 33 ON

75 35 E

5 a aoE

Colmar

Eur.

France

48 444N

7 aa II E

39 39 E

Colognt

Eur.

Oermany

50 55 it N

6 55 E

37 40 £

Compiegne

Eur.

France

49 a4 59 N

a 49 41 E

II 10 E

Conception

Am.

Chili

36 41 5i S

7a 40 oW

4 50 40W

Conftantinople

Eur.

Turkey

41 I a7N

a8 55 E

I 55 40 E

Cooper's Id*

Am.

Atl. Ocean

54 57 OS

36 4 aoW

a 34 17W

Copenhagen

Eur.

Ocnmark

55 41 4N

la 35 15 E

50 31 E

Coauimbo
Cork

Am.
Eur.

Chili
Ireland

29 5» S
51 5i 54 N

71 19 oW
8 a8 X5W

4 45 3W

33 53W

6 30

Corvu

Eur.

Asorc*

J9 4» N

31 6 oW

3 4 a4W

Couvtancei

Eur.

Fiance

49 » 50 N

I a7 ajW

5 ioW

Cowei Weft, Fort

EMr.

Ifie of Wight

50 46 18 N

I 17 I7W

s 9W

10 30

Cracow

Eur.

Poland

49 59 »o N

19 50 E

I 19 ao £

Cremfmunftor

Eur.

Germany

48 3 »9N

14 7 oE

59 a8 E

Croiiic

Eur.

France

47 17 40 N

3 31 4aw

10 7W

Cummin (Ifi«)

Afia

Pae. Ocean

31 40 oN

lat 4 E

8 4 i6£

Cyprus ,

Afia

Syria

34 30 N

33 x6 £( a 13 4 El M

Danttic

Eur.

Poknd K4 SI 9N1 x8 38 oH| I 14 .n ^

Dardanella'i Straits

Eur.

Turkey

40 10 oN

a6 a6 ol

I 45 44 E

Daflkn tfland

Af.

Caffrtcs

31 45 S

18 a o£

I la 8B

Dax

Eur.

France

43 4S 19!^

t 3 i«W

413W

Deal Caftia

Eur.

Knj!and
I. Bourbon

5> t3 5N

I at <o E

5 3*1

St. Dennis

Af.

ao 51 43 S 55 30 E

3 4a El

■J

.■ •*■ tt^

INTRODUCTION.
[7%^ Latitudes and Longitudes of Places^

ls.^xix .

lo 30

E
El

Names of Places.

Cont

Sea or
Country.

Latitude.

Longit
In Degrees.

ude.
In Time.

H.W.

1 n

/ //

h ' »

h '

Diego (Cape)

Am.

T.d. Fuego

54 33 OS

65 14 OW

4 «o 56W

Dieppe

Eur.

France

49 S5 34 N

I 4 29 £

4 x8E

10 30

Dijon

Eur.

France

47 19 »5 N

S I 50E

30 7 E

Dillingen

Eur.

Germany

48 34 azN

10 14 30 E

40 58E

Difappointm. (Cape)

Am.

S. Georgia

54 58 S

36 15 oW

a a5 oW

OifTeada (Cape)

Am.

T. d. Fuego

SS 4 15 S

74 18 oW

4 57 laW

Dol

Eur.

France

48 33 8N

X 45 »8W

7 aW

Domingo Mole

ACa

AtL Ocean

19 49 oN

73 45 oW

4 53 40W

Dominique (Ifle)

Am.

Windvv.Iflea

15 i8 «3 N

61 37 55 w

4 5 5»W

Dorchefter Church

Eur.

England

50 4» 58 N

a a5 40W

9 43W

Douaj

Eur.

Flanders

50 i% 12 N

3 4 47E

xa 19 E

Dover

Eur.

England

51 7 47 N

X 18 ^0 E

5 14E

II 30

Dreux

Eur.

Frunce

4844 17N

t ai a4 E

J a6E

Drontheim

Eur.

Norway

63 a6 iN

10 aa E

41 a8 E

Dublin

Eur.

Ireland

Si %i XI N

6 6 30W

34 36W

9 15

Dungeneft

Eur.

England

50 ja »o N

59 6E

3 56E

9 45

Dunkirk

Eur

France

ji » ixN

a aa 33 £

9 30 E

Durham

Eur.

England

54 43 45 N

X xc oW
z66 18 9 £

5 oW

Dulkey Bay

A(i.

N. Zealand

45 47 47 6

ti 5 13 E

1057

Dunnofe

Eur.

England

50 33 30 N

at 24 S

X 16 aoW

5 5W

9 45

Eaoowe (Ifle)

Afie Pae. Ocean

174 30 oWii 38 oW, a 1

Ealler Ifland

Am.

Pac. Ocean

il 63-58

109 46 45W

7 19 7W

4 30

Edinburgh

Eur.

Scotland

55 57 57 N

3 xa 15W

13 49W

i 30

Edyftone

Eur.

Eng. Chan.

50 8 ON

4 34 oW

17 a4W

ElHiiore

Eur.

Denmark

56 oN

»J 35 E

^4 ao £

Embden

Eur.

Germany

53 5 3N

7 a6 E

»9 44E

Embnm

Eur.

France

44.34 oN

6 »9 o£

35 56 E

Enatum (Ifle)

Alia

Puc. Dcean

CO 10 c S

170 4 E

II 30 16 E

Endeavour Rjver

Afia

N. Holland

15 a; II S

7 Id 50 oW

>4 19 aoW

Etiglifh Road

Afia

Eaoowe

SI ao 30 S

174 34 cW

II 38 x6W

Erramanga (Ifle)

Afli

Pac. Orean

18 .'f JO S

169 18 30 Eit 17 14 E

Erzerum

Afli

Armenia

39 56 iS N

48 ZS 45 E

3 M 33E

Eiiltachii (Town)

Am.

CariS Sea

17 a? oN

6? 10 oW

4 13 40W

Evout's Iflei

Am.

T. d. Fuego

55 3-. 30 S

66 :,) oW, 4 27 ^6W

Evereul

Eur.

France

49 I 30N

1 ^ 54 K

4 .^5 E

Exeter

Eur. lEiigland '5044 oNI i :^ 30W

14 30WI

Falmouth

Enr.

En;;lind

50 8 oNl s a icAV

' 30 loV

;5 3^:

Falfe (Cape)

Af.

Ciiffroa

,;.; 16 c ■

x8 44 t B

I 14 56 I

FalTe Bay

At;

Catfii'i

J4 10 Oh

18 a E

I 14 It F

Farewell (Cupe)

^m.

( irtieiilmd

59 38 o N

4- 4» ■^^'^

» ^o 48M

Farewell (Cap ■)

Afia

N. Zenland

40 37 S

171 ..t J'J l

1' .10 .x'tT^

Fi yal Town

Eur.

.\zor(:t

38 3a aoN

ii .11 iW

I /4 4 iW

» :c

Ferdinand Noronha

Am.

iirazii

3 56 ao S

3a 3:^ CAV

an iW

Perrara

Bur.

Italy

44 4; j6 N

n 36 Hi F

^:.' :. ; T

I'erra Ifle (Town)

.\t.

Cauiriei

i7 47 20N

17 4V 50Vi

I i: oW

Fniiilerre (v. ^pe)

Eur.

S'liiin

»* 54 'aN

9 17 U'W

37 vw

I'iainlioroujK Heid

Eitr.

EngijtMl

J4 8 oN

11 ■.) K

C .\.4 £

J;^H'>ii''Jbis.&i

INTRODUCTION. ''^V

The Latitudes and Longitudes of Places, ■

Names of Places.

Cent

Sea or
Country.

Latitude.

Longitude
In Degrees. In Time.

H.W.

f tf

/ n

h ' "

h '

Florence

Eur.

Italy

43 46 30 N

IX 3 30 E

44 14 E

Floret

Eur.

Asores

39 34 oN

31 oW

a 4 oW

St Flour

Eur.

France

45 I 55 N

3 5 30E

la aa E

Fortaventure (W.Pt.)

Af.

Canaries

18 4 oN

14 3' 30W

58 6W

Foul Point

Af.

Madagafcar

17 40 14 S

49 53

3 19 3a E

France (Ifle of)

Af.

Ind. Ocean

io 9 45 S

57 a8 oE

3 49 5a E

Francforr (on the Ma.)

Eur.

Germany

49 55 oN

8 35 oE

34 ao £

Francois (Cape)

Am.

Hifpaniola

19 46 30 N

,7a 18 oW

4 49 laW

Old Ca)ie Francois

Am.

Hifpaniola

19 40 30 N

70 a oW

4 40 8W

Frawenburgh

Eur.

Pruflia

54 az 15 N

ao 7 30 E

I ao 30 E

Frejus

Eur.

France

43 »5 5a N

6 43 54 E

a6 56 E

Frekel (Cape)

Eur.

France

48 41 3 N

6 oW

a4 oW

Friefland's Peak

Am.

Sandw. I<and

59 a S

a6 55 30W

I 47 4a\V

Fronrac (Strait)

Am.

Nova Scotia

45 36 57 N

61 19 30W

4 5 i8W

Fuego (Ifle)

Af.

Cape Vcrd

14 56 45 N

a4 a8 oW

1 37 5aW

Funchal

Af.

Madeira

3a 37 40 N

17 6 X5W

I 8 a5Wi, 4

Furneaux Ifland

Afia

Viq. Ocean

17 II S

143 6 40W

9 a8 »7W|

■ ;,,; v'v-

Gap

Eur.

France

44 3^ 37 N

6 4 47E

34 19 E

Gabejr

AflA

N. Guinea

6 S

ia6 »3 45 E

8 a5 35 E

Genes

Kur.

Italy

44 a5 N

8 A5 45 E

34 a3 E

Geneva

liur. Savoy

46 11 oN

6 oE

24 oE

Genoa

Eur. Inly

44 15 oN

8 56 37 E

34 a3 E

St. George (Ide)

Eur. Azores

38 39 oN

a8 oW

I 5a oW

St. George ( Towd)

.'Vni. Bermudas

3a 45 N

63 35 oW

4 14 aoW

St. George (Fort)

.\(i4 India

«3 454N

80 a8 45 E

5 ai 55 E

St.Gcorg.j(Cape)

ACu N. Britain

4 53 30 S

153 8 45 K

10 12 35 £

George (C.»p«)

Am. 8. Georgia

54 17 OS

36 3a 30W

a a6 loW

Ghent

Eur. Flanders

51 3 oN

3 43 45 i:

14 55 E

Gibraltar

Eur. Sp:.iti

36 6 30N

5 ai oW

21 a8\V

Gilbert's Ille

Am. T. del I'liego

55 X3 S

71 6 4^W

4 44 iiW

Glafgow

Eiir. .Scotland

S5 51 3a N

4 15 o\V

17 oW

Goa

Afia India

15 31 oN

T3 45 E

4 55 oE

Goat Ille

Alia

Indium Ocean

13 55 oN

120 a E

8 8 E

Gomera (Ilk)

Af.

Cin.iries

28 5 40N

17 8 o\V

I 8 32W

Good Hope (Ilia)

Af.

CaftVcs

34 29 S

18 23 15 E

I 13 33 E

Good Hojie (r«wn)

Af.

Caffres

33 55 42 S

18 13 15 E

« 13 33 E

a 30

Gorec (Ille)

Af,

Atl. Ocean

14 40 JoN

17 35 oW

I 9 40W

I 30

Gottenhurgh

Eur.

Sweden

57 4» oN

U 38 45 E

46 35 K

Oottiiigeii (Obforv.)

I.ur.

Germany

51 3» 54 N

9 53 E

39 32 E

Granvilltj

i:ur.

I-'r.incc

4S 50 16 N

I 36 I5\V

6 25\V

Grade

Eur.

France

43 39 19 N

(> 55 9 ''■

27 41 E

Gratiofa

Eur.

A:tore«

39 a N

n 58 ovv

I 5' 5aW

(Jral/.

Eur.

(•erm.iny

47 4 9N

>5 a.j 45 K

I I 48 F.

Gravcliiics

i'lur.

I'Lindeis

.vo .59 4 N

a 7 3a E

8 30 E

f;reenwicl> (Obfcr.)

Eur.

England

.51 j8 40 N

000

Greofnobie

Eur.

Franco

45 n 4aN

5 43 34 K

21 54

Grypliifvvald

Eur.

Gtirmany

54 4 a5N

»3 38 30 ••

54 34

jGuadaloiipc

Am.

('arib. Sea

»5 59 .10 N

(it 48 nvv

4 7 13W

^G)iai4(|tiil

Am.

Peru

a II ai S

81 II 30W

5 »4 46W

INTRODUCTION.

Tie LaiitttJe and Longitude of Places,

%Q\

aw.

Names of Places.

Cont

Sea or
Country.

Latitude.

I^ongitude.
In Degrees. In Tinie.

H.W.

■

1 II

/ II

h 1 ft

h /

Gurief

Afiji

Siberia

47 7 7N

51 56 oE

3 27 44 E

Guernfey

Eur.

Brit. Chan.

49 30 oN

a 47 o.W

n 8W

.,.

■

H , ', .' '■

■

Hague

Eur.

Netherlands

54 4 loN

4 17 30 E

17 10 E

« 15

Hamburgh

Eur.

Netherlands

Si 3i 3N

10 I II E

39 ao E

Hang-lip (Cape)

Af.

Caflfres

34 i6 S

18 44 E

I 14 56^

Hanover

Eur.

Germany

ja ai 18 N

9 4« *5 E

38 57 E

Harborough (Mark.)

Eur.

England

5a a8 30 N

57 25 W

3 50W

Harlem

Hsttings

Eur.
Eur.

Netherlands
England

5a aa 14 N

50 ja 10 N

4 37 E
41 10 E

18 38 E
a 45W

/ ■

Havaunah

Am.

Cuba

a3 If 5 N

8a 18 30W

5 49 mW

Havrc-de-gracc

Eur.

France

49 39 14 N

6 a3 E

a6 E

^ \% 4

Heele (I.a)

Eur.

Netherlands

51 a3 aN

4 45 30 E

10 a E

St. Helena (Ja. Town)

Af.

S.Atl.Ocean i,<f s.t © S

5 49 oW

33 16W

1 ^

Henlopei) (Cape)

Am.

Virginia .^8 46 oN

75 I a 30W

5 50W

Hernofand

Eur.

Sweden 61 38 oN

17 S3 E

I 11 3a E

Hervey's Ifle

Afla

Pac. Ocean

19 17 S

158 48 oW

ro 3 J laW

Hinciungbroke Ifle

Afld

Pac. Ocean

17 aj S 168 38 E

II 14 3a E

Hoai Nghan

Afia

China

Zi 34 40 N

118 49 30 E

7 55 18 E

Hogue (Cape La)

Eur.

France

49 44 40 N

I 56 50W

7 47W

Holyhead

Eur.

Wales

Si 33 oN

4 40 oW

18 40W

Hood's Ifle

Afia

Pac. Ocean

9 a6 8,138 j» oW

9 15 aSW

E
E

Hoogdracten

Eur.

Netherlands

51 a4 44 N 4 47 E

19 8 1

Horn (Cape)

Am.

T. del Fuego

SS S* OS 68 13 oW

4 29 44W

Hout Bay

A(.

Caffres

,54 3 S 18 19 E

I 13 16 E

Howe's Ifle

Afia

Pac. Ocean

16 46 30 S 154 6 40\V

10 16 27W

Huahiiic (Ifle)

Afia

Pac. Ocean

16 44 S 151 6 CW

10 4 34 W

Mull

Eur.

England

Si 50 N a8 oW

I 5aW

_ ..

Hunl CaOlc

Eur.

Eii^^land

jo 4a a3N I 3a 45W

6 iiW

kV c

J'' V '■ /

■

Jafl^a

Afia

Syri.i

U T oN

35 10 E

3 ao 40 P.

«7

Jamaica (Port-royal)

Am.

Atl, Ocean

18 oN

76 44 30W

5 6 58W

Jakutlkoi

Afia

Siberia

6a I 30 N

119 47 45 E

8 39 " E

A''

Jant'iro (Rio)

Am.

Brazil

aa s\ »o S

42 43 45 W

a 50 55 W

E 3 o

lafTy

Eur.

Moldavia

47 8 30 N

a? a9 45 E

» 49 S9 E

>- a 30

Java Hcnd

Afia

J.va

6 49 S

106 50 E

7 7 ao E

tV I 30

Jerurnlena

Afia

P.ilelline

31 46 34 N

35 so ^ E

a ai 30 E

St lldefoitfo's Iflei

Am.

r del Fnego

S5 .n S

69 21 oW

4 37 5aW

Inrncr (Ifle)

J\fi.i

Pac. Ocean

19 16 .S

169 46 E

II 19 4 £

IV 7 c
E

hicollladt

i-ur.

Germany

48 AS AS N

II az 30 £

45 30 E

St. John's

Am.

Antigua

17 30N

6a 9 oW

4 8 36W

St. John's

.Am.

Nftwtbimdl.

47 31 oN

5a a6 oW

3 39 44W

Jop))a

Afia

Syrii

,5a AS oN

36 cW

a 34 oW

E c

■

St. Jofcph's

California

23 3 4a S

109 4a 30 W

7 18 50W

Irraname (Iflt)

Afia

Pac. Ocean

19 31 S

170 m E

11 at 34 F

IflamnbaH

Alii

India

aa ao oN

91 AS £

6 7 oE

Ifle of Pinet

Afia

f'ac. Ocean

11 38 S

167 38 E

II 10 33 E

"~ ■^—

Ifpahan

Afia

Perfla

3a IS oN

5a 50 E

3 3» «'?E

St Juan (Cape)

Am Staten Lind|

54 47 10 S

63 47 oW

4 15 8E

iBBBS

h a

TAt

xcu

INTRODUCTION,
The Latitudes and Longitudes of Places*

Names of Places.

Cent.

Sea or
Country.

I--"'^'- .„D.sJ^''t-T,„e.

1
H.W.

o ; // j 1 II

h / If

h /

Judda

Afia

Arabia

zi 29 N'i 39 aa E

2 37 a8 E

St. Juliana (Port)

Am.

Patagonia

49 10 S' 68 44 oW

4 34 56W

4 45

Juthia

AHa

India

14 18 N xoo 50 £

6 43 20 £

V : ■ '

^■^ 1

Kedgeree Afia

India

31 48 oN

88 50 15 E

5 55 21 E

Kiow

Eur.

Ukraine

50 27 oN

30 27 30 E

^ I 50E

J^l» ■ .: '.-,■

Eur.

Lapland

68 Si 30 N

33 30 E

a 12 2 E

i - ,- ,, ,

f (. •- ^A/.i "

'li-: ■-■li;...^ ■--■; ■ [

Ladrone (Granrf)

Afia

Pat-. Ocean

az a oN

If? 56 E

7 35 44 E
I 5 I3W

Laguna

Af.

EeuerifFe

28 28 57 N

i6 i3 15W

Ltncarota (E. Pt.)

Af.

Canaries

29 14 oN

13 26 oW

53 44W

I^andau

Eur.

France

49 11 38 N

8 7 30 E

32 30 E

Landfcrnon

Kur;

Sweden

55 J» 31 N

1 2 50 46 E

51 23 E

Lands-End

F.ur,

England

50 4 7N

5 41 31 W

22 46W

Langres

Vur.

France

47 5a 17 N

5 19 23 E

21 18 E

Lauinnne

Eur.

Switzerland

46 31 5N

6 45 15 E

27 I E

Lcf^cure

Eur.

France

43 j6 2N

36 53 K

2 28 E

Leeds

Eur.

England

53 48 o^

I 34 15 W

6 17W

Leghorn

Eur.

Italy

43 .13 oN

10 as E

41 40 E

LeiceWer

Eur.

England

51 38 oN

I 8 30W

4 34W

Leipiic

Lur.

Saxony

ji 19 14N

I z 20 E

49 20 E

Le)>er'* inaml

Afu

Pac. Ocean

ij »3 30 •''

167 5B 15 F-

ro n 53 E

Lefkeard

Eur.

J-'ngland

50 26 55 N

4 41 45W

18 47 w

Lefparra

Eur.

France

45 18 ^i N

57 3W 3 48W

Leyden . '

Eur.

HoUand

53 8 40N

4 a8 oE

17 52 E

Liege

Eur.

Netherlands

50 37 30 N

5 35 E

22 20 E

Lima

Am.

Peru

la I 15 s

76 49 30 w

5 7 18W

I>iinoge8

Eur.

France

45 49 A4 N

I 15 50 E

5 4E

— —

Lint*

Eur.

Germany

48 16 ON

«3 57 30 K

55 50 F.

Lifieux i ;" '■■''•

Eur.

France

49 8 SO N

13 3^ P-

54 f:

Line

Eur.

Flanders

50 37 50 N

3 4 16 E

12 17 E

Lilbon

Eur.

Portugal

38 4a 25 N

9 4 40W

36 40 W

» 15

Lion's Bank

Eur.

Atl. Ocean

56 40 N

17 4i o\V

I II oVV

Lidinrnt (Cape)

Alia

N. Hchrides

IS 40 45 t^

i66 .57 E

II 7 48 E

LTver|KM)l

Eur.

England

53 22 oN

3 10 oW

11 40 W

Licard Fhgftaif

Eur. |Eiii;land

49 57 56N

5 ti i8W

20 4.5 W

7 30

Lambes

Eur.

1 France

43 »8 30 N

•0 55 9 1*^

3 41 E

r..ondon (St. Paul's)

Eur.

Envjland

5* 31 oN

5 37VV

22^W

Lorenio (Cape)

Am.

Peru

I 2 S

3c3 17 o\V

5 ai 8\V

St. Louis (Port)

Am.

tlilpanioLi

18 iS 50 N

73 16 OW

4 53 4W

St. Louis (Port)

Af.

Mauritius

i.0 9 45 S

.57 28 F.

3 49 Si I'

Louifbourg

Am.

Cape Breton
India

45 53 40 N

59 'SS 0^^'

3 59 40W

Louveau

Afia

12 43 30 N

loi I 30 F.

6 44 6 V

Louvaiii

Kur.

Netherlands

50 53 3 N

4 44 15 F

18 57 E

Lowefloflfe

Eui.

England

SI 29 o^

I 44 9 !'■

3 57 E

St. Lucia (lfl«)

Am.

Antilles

13 24 30 N

60 .51 3o\V'

4 3 a6W

Lunden

Fur.

Swoden

5.5 42 26 N

13 12 27 I

52 JO F

Luneville

Eur.

France

48 35 33 N

6 30 ft F

26 F

INTRODUCTION.

The Latitudes and Longitudes of Places.

%tm\

Names of Places.

Cont

Lufon

Luxembourg
Lyme Steeple
Lynn
Lyons

Macao

MacafTer

Madeira (Funchal)

Madras

Madre de Dios (Port)

Madrid

Magdalena (Ifle)

Mahon (Port)

Majorca (Ille)

Malacca

Eur.
Eur.
Eur,
Ewr.
Eur.

Afia

Af.

Afia

Eur.

Afia

Eur.

Afia

Sea or
Country.

Latitudes.

I^atitudes.
In Degrees. In Time.

France ' 46 27 15 N
Netherlands 49 37 6N
England 51 4 2oN

England 5 a 45 16 N

France 145 SS 5*^

H.W.

» II

10 34W

11 45 E
I «a E

aj 45 K
49 9 E

/ II

4 4»W
24 47 E

4 JE

X 35 E
19 17 E

h /

Malines

Malicola (Ifle)

St. Maloes

Malta (Ifle)

Manilla

St. Margaret's Steeple

Marigalante (Ifle)

Marfcillcs ^

St. Martha

St.Miriin*s(Ifle)

Eur.

Afia

Eur

Af.

Afia

Eur.

Am.

Eur.

Am.

China

Celebes

Atl. Ocean

India

M.nquefas

Spain

Pac. Ocean

Minorca

Medit. Sea

India

21 12

5 9

3* 37

13 4

9 55

40 25

10 25

39 50

39 35

2 12

44 N'

o S

40 N

54 N

30 S

18 N,

30 S

46 N

113 46
119 48

1656
80 28

139 8
3 la

138 49
34«

2 29
102 J

Netherlands
Pac. Ocean
France
Modit. Sea
Pliillipines
England
Atl. Ocean
France
Terra Firma
Carih. Sea

Martinico (Port-royal)

St. Mary's (Ifle)

St. Mary's (Town)

Maflcelyne's Ifle

Si. Matthew ^iglits)

Mauritius

Mantua (Ifle)

Mayence

Mayne (John's Ifle)

Mayo (Ifle)

Am.

Eur.

Afia

Eur.

Af.

Afia

Kur.

Eur.

Af.

AtL Ocean
Scilly Ifles
Azores
Pac. Ocean
France
Ind. Ocean
Pac. Oce.m
Germany
North Ocean
Cape Vcrd

Meaux

MeccH ,^

Meude

Mergui

Metr.

Mew Stone

Mexico

Mczii're*

Miatea (Itle)

.St. Michael's (Ifle)

Mlddlcbur; (Ifle)
Milan
MUo (IfW)
[Minorca ( Ft. 9t. Phil.)

Eur.
Afia
Eur.
lAfia
Eur.
Afia
Am.
Eur.
Afia
Eur.

5«

48
35
14
51
15
43
II

15 B

45 E
oW

45 E

40W
oW
oW

30 E

45 E
oE

7 35 5 F'l
7 59 «5 B
I 7 44W

5 41 55 E
9 16 35W
o 14 8W
9 15 16W
o 15 14 E
o 9 S9E

6 48 20 E

12 4
% 30

49
36
16
48

20
16

49
71
15

iS 55 N
57 30N
56 40 N
32 o S
19 5»N

I 50N 4 28 45 E| o 17 SS E
15 30 S 167 39 15 E It 10 37 E
38 59 N 2 2 22W o 8 9W
53 "47 N 14 28 30 E o 57 54 E
36 8N120 52 oE 8 3 28E

9 14N I 22 7 E O 5 28 E
SS 15 N 61 II cW 4 4 44W
17 43 N 5 21 43 Ei o 21 27 E
26 40N 74 4 30V/ 4 56 >8W

4 20N 63 2 oW 4 la 8W

»5
54
10
10

40 S
ON
oN

France

Ar.ibu

France

Siam

Fnince

New Holland

Mexico

France

Pac. Ocean

Azores

Afia
Eur.
Eur.
Eur.

4857

21 40

44 3»
12 12

49 7
43 48
«9 25
49 45
t? 5a
37 47

Pac. Ocean
Italy
Medit. Se«

40 N
oN
aN
oN

10 N
o

50 S

47 N
o S
oN

»5

167 59

4 47

57 »9

15a 3a

8 20

6 o

oW
15W
15 E
25W
15 E
40W

oE
30W

%
41

146
1 100

4
148

4
o
I

II
o
3

4
26
40
II
19
49

10 10

o 33

1 32

36W

jaW
37W
57 E
loW
57 E
liW
20 E

I8W

aoW

J 45

21 ao 30 s

45 a7 57 N
36 41 N

Madit.Sca 39 51 oN

5a 30 E
o oE

a9 35 E

845F

to 13 E

37 oE

45W

16 E

43
6

4»

174 34 oW

9 iz 45 B
t5 o oE

3 54 oE

II 30 E

44 oE
I3 5«E

3a 3S^
24 41 E

45 48 E
40a3W
x8 53 B
58 14W
4a 48W

n 38 16W

O 36 47 E;

« 40 oE

o ij 36 E

rt$

itclv

IJITRODUCTION.

Thf Latitudes and Longitudes of Places,

Namts of Places.

Cont.

Sea or
Country.

Latitude.

Longitude.
In Degrees. , In Time.

H.W.

/ II

/ //

h ' "

h '

Modena

Eur.

Italy

44 34 N

II 12 30 E

44 50 E

Mont

Eur.

Netherlinds

90 a; 10 N

3 57 15 E

15 49 E

Montagu (Cape)

Am.

^andw. Land

58 33 OS

a6 46 oW

I 47 4W

Montagu (tHe)

Alia

Pac. Ocean

17 26 S

168 31 30 E

II 14 6 E

Montmirail

Eur.

Franca

48 52 8N

3 3» 16 E

14 9 £

Montpellier

Eur.

France

43 if> 29 N

3 S^ aj E

15 30 E

Montreal

Am.

Canada

45 50 oN

73 II oW

4 5a 44 W

Montlerrat (Ifle)

Am.

Carib. >Sea

i6 47 30 N

6a 17 oVV

4 9 8W

Monument (The)

Ada

Pac. Ocean

17 M ij S

168 38 15 E

II 14 .33 E

Mdcow

Eur.

Mofcovy

55 45 45 N

37 3» 45 E

a 30 II E

Moulins

Eur.

Fiance

46 34 4 N

3 19 59 E

13 20 E

Munich

Eur.

Bavaria

48 9 55 N

11 30 E

46 E

Mulkctto Cove

Am.

Greenland

64 55 13 N

5a 56 45W

3 31 47W

10 I?

Mufwell Hill

Eur.

England Iji 35 3*NJ 7 aoWl l^Vik ' 1

c . N 1

Namur

Eur. jNetherlands

.P 28 32 N( 4 44 45 K' 18 59 T^f 1

Nancy

Eur.

France

48 41 SS N

6 10 i6 E 24 41 E

Nangafacki

Ada

Japan

3» 3Z oN

128 46 15 E 8 35 5 E

Ndiikin

Afia

China

3Z 4 40 S

u8 47 OE 7 S5 8E

Nantes

Eur.

France

47 t3 6N

I 32 59Wi 6 12VV

Naples

Eur.

It.il)

4C 50 15 N

14 17 30 E

57 10 E

N:irhonne

Eur.

France

43 10 58 N

a 59 59 E

» la oE

Nevers

Eur.

Franca

4^ 59 17 N

3 9 16 E

12 37 E

New Year's Harbour

Am.

Staten Land'54 48 SS S

64 II o\V

4 16 43W

Niigara

Am.

Canada

43 4 »5N

79 7 Ji^V

5 l6 31 W

Nice'

Eur. I'ranct

43 41 47 N

7 16 22 Ej 29 5 E

yt.Nicluibs Mole

Am. Hil"|'rtniofa

19 49 20 N

73 29 45W

4 5'^ 59^V

Nieuport Alole

Eur. JFLnideis

51 7 41N

a 45 E! ji E

Ningpci

.Afii IChiii.i

»9 57 45 N

120 18 El 8 I 12 E

Nifmes

Fur. iKraiice

43 50 ^'^^

4 18 39 e! 17 15 E

•

Noir (Cape)

Am. i'l". del Fiiego

54 3» 30 S

73 3 15 W

4 48 13W

Nootka

Am. jPac. Ocean m^ 36 6N

126 4 30W

1 8 26 50W

Norfolk rn.ind

Afi.i (Fjc.<)ce.Mi 'ay i 45 N

168 10 E^n 12 40 E

Noriron

.\m. iPLiiniyivania40 9 56 N

75 «3 30W

5 1 .14W

North Cupc

Fiur. jLapland 171 10 oN

25 57 E

I 45 48 E

Cape North

Am. |.S. Georgia 54 4 45 N: 38 15 oW

a 37, cW

Noyon

Eur. JFrance '49 34 59 N 3 59 4^ E

II 59 E

Nuremhere

iiur. IGeimauy '41^ 26 JJ N n 4 oE

44 16 E

»■ -^ '

Oaitipeht Bay

Afa

Orn»-,eito 17 29 17 S|i49 3.? 45W

9 56 5/W

Ocho»

Afia

Taury

59 20 10N1143 »a 30 E

9 32 50 E

Olnmsn^no Harbour

Afia

Uliit^dh

16 45 30 .«;i5l 38 5W

iQ 6 32W

11 ao

Ohcvahoa (Ifle)

Atia

P.»c. Ocean

9 40 40 S|i39 * 40^^'

9 16 7W

Ohitahoof[(le)

Afia

Fac. Ocean

9 55 30 *< 139 6 oVV

9 16 24W

a 30

Olerqii (Ifle)

Eur.

Franco

46 2 50 N I 25 I3\\'

5 41W

Qlinije

Am.

Brazil

8 13

35 5 30W

2 ao aiW

St. pmerffl

Eur.

Flanders

JO 43 4^ N

* 14 51 E

9 oW

Ohateavio (Iflt)

A^ia

Pac. Ocean

9 .cS s 138. n cAV

»9 15 29W

^■""^

« .

7'A^

INTRODUCTION.

XCT

Tie Latitudes and Longitudes of Places.

Names of Places.

Cont

•

Sea or
Counuy.

Latitude.

Longitude
In Degrees. Ir

•

1 Time.

H.W.!

t It

/ ff

/ //

h ' j

Oporto

Eur.

Portugal

41 lO N

8 aa oW

3i 8W

Orenburg

Ada

Tatary

51 46 5 N

SS 4 30E

40 18 E

Orleans

Ei'r.

France

47 54 to N

1 5 ■ a7 E

7 38 E

Orleans (New)

Am.

Louifiana

*9 57 45 N

89 58 45 W| 5 59 5sW

Oraiava

Teneriffe

28 43 ^^ N

16 a4 iiW

5 37W

Ordc

Afia

Tatary

ji la 30 N

58 30 45 E

54 ? E

Ortagal (Cape)

Eur.

Spain

43 46 30 N

7 39 oW

30 36W

Olnabiirg (Ifle)

Afia

Par. Ocean

17 49 30 S

149 a6 :5W

9 5a a4W

Oftend

bur.

Neitherlatids

5« 13 SS N

3 SS 45 E

II 43 E

la <

Owharre B.iy

Alia

Huahind

16 44 S

151 3 15W10

4 33W

Oxford (OWcrvatory)

Eur.

England

51 45 38 N

45 1.1 40 N

I 15 3tWl

i iW

Pat^ua

Eur.

Italy

II 5a 30 E

47 30 E

Paita

Am.

Peru

5 I* S

Palliler's (Ifles)

Afia

Pac. Ocean

15 38 15 «

146 30 ijW

46 iW

PalliCet's (Cape)

Alia

N. Zealand

41 ^8 S

175 i8 E

44 30 E

Palma (Hie)

Af.

Caniiries

z8 36 45 N

17 50 oW

ti aoW

I'ainwrfton's (Ifle)

Afia

Pac. Ocean

18 6

1 6a 57 oW

51 48 w

I'anama

Am.

Mexico

8 47 48 N

80 ai oW

a I a4W

Paoom (Ifle)

Afia

Pac Ocean

i6 30 .S

168 a8 45 E

13 45 E

Pans (OlUerv.)

Eur.

France

48 JO 14 N

a ao E

9 ao H,

PatrixAord

Eur.
Eur.

Iceland

65 25 45 N

a4 10 oW

36 40 w

Pau

France

43 »5 oN

9 oU

36 vv

St. Pauls (Ifle)

Af.

hid. Ocean

37 51 S

77 48 E

II 12 E

St. Paul de 1/v.on

Eur.

France

48 40 5.5 N

4 aiVV

16 i\V

Pekin

Afia

Chin.1

J9 54 13 N

116 a; 30 E

7 45 50 E

t'erigueux

Eur.

I'rance

45 II 8N

43 9 E

a S3 E

Pennaldi

Hur.

Italy

43 Si aoN

7 40 !■

30 40 IL

Perpigoan

Eur

France

41 41 53 N

» Si 35 E

II 34 E

St. Peter's Fort

Am.

Ma^tinico

14 44 oN

61 21 16W

5 a.5W

St. Peter's (lilt-)

Am.

Atl. Qce.in

46 46 30 N

56 17 OVV

..
J

45 8VV

Pcterfturgh

Kur.

Ruflia

59 56 23 N

30 19 [•-

I 16 E

l*elit Ooave

Am.

Hil'paniola

j8 17 oN

7a ja 30W

51.30W

Petro lawlolkoi

Alia

Kamchatka

Si 1 aoN

158 4^ E

35 I.-. E

Philadel|<liia

Am.

Penlylvania

J9 56 SS N

75 13 3-VV

54W

St Philip's Fort

Ew.

Minorca

39 50 46 N

3 48 30 E

15 «4 E

Pickerlgtil's (Ifle)

Am.

Atl. Ocean

54 4» 30 S

36 58 oW

37 5»V\

HckerfsiU's Harbour

Afia

N. Zealand

45 47 27 S

t66 I? 9 (

5 13 E

Pico

Kur.

Azores

38 a8 40 N

a8 26 oVV

Si mW

I'ines (Ifle)

Afia

N. Caledonia

it 38 s

167 ;i8 I

10 3a !■,

PiCa

Kur.

Itily

43 43 7N

10 a3 I:

41 3a E

Plymouth Garrii'on

Eur.
Eur.

England

50 31 aaN

4 7 24W

16 30 W

Poitiers

France

\<i 34 50 N

20 48 E

I a3 E

Pollingen

Eur.

C{cim.iny

47 48 17 N

II 7 17 E

44 i') E

Poole Cliurch

Kur.

Eii$lan4

50 4a <oN

I 58 55W

7 56W

Poiidicherry

Afin

India

II 4> SS"^

79 51 45 E

19 31 E

■

Ponoi

Eur,

L^aptan^

67 4 30N

36 33 15 E

a5 3"^ E

Pontolfe

Eur.

Fiance

49 3 aN

a 5 37 E

8 aa E

PoitlandLisht-houfe

Eur

England

50 31 aiN

a 26 4>;\V

9 47W

Porto Btllo

Am.

Mexico

9 il 5 N

79 50 aoW

19 21 VV

Tie

iiinawWiSiafcigait .,:,i

SCVI

INTRODUCTION, v
T/je Latitudes and Longitudes of Places*

^^^^^^^H

Namei of Places.

Cont.

Sea or
Country.

Latitude.

Longitude.
In Degrees. In Time.

H.W.

'^^^H

/ //

h ' «

h '

^^^^1 '

Porto San£lo (Ifle)

Af.

Madeira

3a J8 15 N

16 a5 15W

1 5 4iW

^^^^H

Port Royal

Am.

Jamaica

18 oN

76 45 30W

5 7 4W

'^^^^^1

PortRc^l

Am.

Martinico

14 55 55 N

61 9 oW

4 4 36W

^^^^^B

Portfmouth Church

Eur.

£ngland

jO 47 27 N

» 557W

4 a4W

XX X5

I^^^^^^^^H

Portfmouth Academy

Eur.

England

50 48 »N

I 6 iW

4 24W

Portland (Me}

Eur.

North Sea

63 «» oN

18 54 oW

1 15 i('^

^^^^H

Portland (Ifle)

Afia

Pac. Oce in

39 45 S

178 la oW la 5a 48 E

^^^^^B

Fort Faix

Am.

Kifpaniola

19 58 oN

73 a oW 4 48 8W

^^^^B

Port Picay*

Af.

St. J ago

M 53 Si N

a3 89 aaW i zi 57W

^^H

Prague

Eur.

Bohemia

50 5 47N

14 84 E 57 36 E

:|^^H

Prince of Wales's Fort

Am.

New Wales

58 47 3»N

94 7 30W

6 16 30W

^^^^^H

Providence

Am.

N. England

41 50 40 N

71 a6 oW

4 45 44W

'■H^H

Pudyoua

Alia

N. Caledonia

>o iS S

164 41 14 £

10 5 8 45 E

6 3c

■^^^H

Pulo Condor (Ifle)

Afla

[nd. Ocean

8 40 oN

to7 ao E

7 9 ao£

^^n^H

Pulo Timor (Ifle)

Afla

Gulph Siam 3 N

104 a« E

6 45 40 E

Pyleftaarfs(lfle)

Afia Pac. Ocean |za 23 S

t75 41 30W

II 4a 46 w

•

Quebec

Am. Canada

46 47 30 N

ft 10 oW

4 44 40W

7 30

^^^^^H

Quimper

Eur. France

47 58 »9 N

4 6 oW

16 a4W

l^^^^^l

St. Quinton

Eur. France

49 50 51 N

3 »7 a3 F

13 ID E

^^^^^H

Quiros (Cape)

Alia N.Hebrides

14 56 8 S

167 ao E

II 9 ao K

^^^H'

Quito

Am. Peru

p 13 17 s

77 55 oW

J H 40W

'!^^^^^^B

Rakah (Ancient)

Afia Mefopotam.

36 X oN'i 3? 50 oE\ a ^5 aoF.
5Q 18 40 N 4 ao 15WI 17 aiV7

^^^^^H

Ramhead

Eur. Englind

^^^^^K

Romfgate Windmill

Eur.

England

5« 19 49N

I a4 4 E 5 36 J\ II

I^^^H

Rhe (Ifle)

liur.

Fniice

46 1448N

I 34 a8W 6 18U

i ^^^H. '

Recif

Am.

Brafil

8 10 S

i5 35 oW

a aa aoW

1' ^^^^H

Reikianefs (Cape)

Eur.

Icel.ind

6.? 55 oN

aa 47 30W

I 31 loW

^^^^^^^^^H

i< ennes

Eur.

France

48 6 45 N

I 41 53W

6 48W

Relblution (Bay)

Afia

Ohiatoo

9 55 30 J'

■ 39- 8 40W

9 16 35W

a 30

^^^^^^^^^^^^K

Relblution (Ifle)

Afia

Pac. Ocean

17 a3 30 S

141 45 oW

9 a7 cW

^^^^^^^^B
^^^^^^^^H

I efolution (Port)

Afia

Tanna

19 3» 45 S

169 4» 5 E

XI 18 44 £

i ^H

Rheims

Eur.

France

49 15 i6N

4 I 48 E

16 7 E

\ i^^^^^H

Rhodes

Eur.

France

44 ao 59N a 34 17 ^^

10 17 F

^^^^^^^^^^1

Rhodes

Afia

Archipelago

35 a7 N a8 45 E

I 55 oE

^^^^^^^^H

Rimini

Eur.

Italy

44 3 43N la 34 is E

50 X7 E

Rhj Janeiro

Am.

Brazil

aa 54 10 S 4a 43 45W

a 50 55W

^^^^^^^^H

Rochelle

Eur.

France

46 9 ai 15I 19 55'^

4 4o^^

3 45

' I^^I^^H

Rochfort

Eur.

France

45 50 loN 57 49W

3 5iW

4 15

^^^^Hjj^^^H

Rock of Lifbon

Eur.

Portugal

38 45 30 N| 9 35 30W

38 aaW

^^^^^m

Rcdrigues(lfle)

Af.

Ind. Ocean

19 4t> 40 Si 63 lo I

4 xa 4o£

^K^k

Rome (St. Peter's)

Eur.

Italy

41 SZ 54 N la a9 15 E

49 57 I

;

^^^H

Rotterdam

Eur.

Holland

51 55 58 N! 4 19 OE

17 5* I

• 3

fl^^^H.

Rotterdam (Ifle)

Afia

Pac. Ocean

ao 16 30 S174 30 3oWiix 38 a\V

B '

Rouen

Eur.

Franc*

49 a6 a7Ni x x jaWj 4 6VI

' X X

Tbi

H.W.

II 25

6 3©

7 30

3 o

» 3°

f E

1 E

»E

3 45

4 15

I I

INTRODUCTION.
Tbe Latitude* and Longitudes of Places,

xcvu

Namei of Places.

Cont.

Sea or
Counuy.

Latitude.

Longit
In Degrees.

uds.
In Time.

H.W.

Q 1 II

1 II

h 1 II

h /

SAa (Ifle)

Am.

Carib. Sea

17 39 30 N

63-17 15 W

4 13 9W

Sable (Cape)

Am.

Nova Scotia

73 *3 45 N

65 39 15W

4 22 37W

Sag«n

Eur.

Silefia

51 42 It N

15 2a 15 E

I I 29 E

Sauites

Eur.

France

45 44 43 N

38 5W

2 36W

Sainfe-Croix

Eur.

Fnmce

48 35 N

7 33 SS E

29 36 t

Salilbury Spire

Eur.

England

51 3 43 N

I 47 oW

8 8W

SaU (Ifle)

Af.

Atl. Ocean

i6 38 15 N

22 56 13W

I 31 45W

Sanolique

Eur.

Turkey

40 41 10 N

aj 8 E

I 33 33 E

Salvages (Ifles)

Af.

Ad. Ocean

30 N]

r T5 54 oW

I 3 26W

Samana *

Am.

Hilpanioia

19 15 oN

69 16 30W

4 37 6W

Samos

Afia

Archipelago

37 46 oN

a7 13 cE

I 48 5a E

Sandla Cruz

Af.

Tcneriffe

a8 ^^ 30 N

i6 16 15W

I 5 5^^'

Sandwich (Bay)

Am.

St. Georgia

54 5* S

36 I a oW

a a4 48W

Saiidwch (Cape)

Afia

MallicoLi

16 28 OS

167 59 E

II II 56 E

S.indwich Harbour

Aiia

Mallicola

16 25 ao S

167 53 • E

I n 3a E

Sandwich (Ifle)

Afia

Pac. Ocean

17 41 OS

168 33 c E

II 14 la E

Saunders's (Cape)

Am.

Saudw. Land

54 6 30 S

36 57 30W

a 27 50W

Saunders's (Ifle)
Savage (Ifle)

Am.

S. Georgia

58 S

2658 oW

1 47 53W

Afia

Pac. 6ccan

19 2 15 S

169 30 30W

n 18 aW

Scarborough Head

Eur.

EngUnd

54 18 oN

13 cW

jaW

Schwezingen

Eur.

Germany

49 13 4N

8 40 45 E

34 33 E

Scillv Ifles (I-ights)

Eur.

Eng.Channel

49 56 oN

6 46 o\V

37 4\V

Seballian St. (Cape)

Af.

Madagafcar

la 30 S

46 25 E

3 5 40E

Sedan

Eur.

France

49 4» 29 N

4 57 36 E

19 50 E

Seez

Eur.

France

48 36 23 N

10 44 E

40 3 E

Senegal

Af.

Negroland

15 S3 oN

16 31 30W

I 6 6W

10 30

Scnlis

Eur.

France

49 12 28 N

a 34 58 E

10 aoE

Sens

Eilr.

France

48 II 55 N

3 17 31 E

13 6 E

Senonef

Eur.

France

48 23 7 1^

6 57 oE

27 48 E

Sheeincfs

Eur.

England

5^ ts o^

j» E

3 aoE

Shepherd's (Ifics)

Afia

Pac. Ocean

i6 58 S

168 42 £

u 14 48 E

Shirbum CalUe

Eur.

England

51 Z9 «5N

I oW

4 oW

Siam

Afia

India

14 ao 40 N

100 50 o E

6 43 20 E

Si>ngham*fu

Afia

China

34 16 30 N

108 43 45 E

7 14 55 E

Sifteron

Eur.

France

44 II 51 N

5 56 18 E

33 45 E

Sligo Bay '

Eur.

Ireland

54 15 oN

9 18 oW

37 laW

Smyrna

Alia

Natalia

38 28 7 N

«7 6 35 E

I 48 26 £

Snxfell (Moui;t)

hur.

Iceland

64 ja 20 N

23 54 oW

I iS 36W

Soiflbiu

Eur.

France

49 22 ja N

3 19 16 E

rs 17 E

Sombavera (Ifles)

Am.
Afi»

Carib. Sea

18 38 oN

63 37 30W

4 14 3o\V

Sodo

India

5 57 oN

121 15 30 F

8 5 2E

Southampton Spire

Eur.

England

50 53 59 ^

1 23 56W

5 36W

Southern Thule

Am.

Sandw. Land

59 34 OS

27 45 oW

I 51 oW

Speaker Bank

AAa

Ind. Ocean

4 45 S

73 57 oE

4 51 48 E

Stalbrldgc

Eur,

England

50 J7 cN

a 23 -30W

9 34W

Star-Point

Eur.

Englaiid

JO 13 26 N

3 38 2iW

14 33W

Stotkholm

Eur.

Sweden .

S9 20 31 K

18 3 45 E

I 12 10 E

Stonehengt

Eur.

England

51 10 44 K

I 49 8W

7 i6\V

Straumnefit

Eur.

Iceland

65 39 40 N

24 29 15W

» 37 57W

Stratabourgh

Eur.

France

48 34 56 N

7 44 36 E

30 58 E

Tb4

..,sdM^^.

■ • I iiiwiiWawiMliiH

scvm

INTRODUCTION.
T^e Latitudes and Longitudes of Placet,

1 Namrs of Places.

Cont

Sea or
Country.

Latitude.

Longitude.
In Degrees. In Time.

H.W.

O 1 II

/ H

h / n

h /

Succefs Bay

Am.

T. del Fuego

54 49 45 S

6s 25 oW

4 31 40W

Succefs Cape

Am.

T. del Fuego

55 I o S

6s 27 oW

4 21 48WI II

Suez

Af.

Egypt

29 50 oN

33 27 oE

3 13 48 E

Suits

Eur.

France

47 Si 10 N

7 14 32W

38 58W

Surac

Afia

{India \ti lo oN

73 22 30 E

4 49 30 E

Table Mand

Afia

N. Hebrides

15 ."JS S

167 7 oE

II S2SE

Tanna

Afia

Pac. Ocean

19 3» aj S

169 41 J E

II 18 44 £

Taoukaa (Ifle)

Afia

Pac. Oceao

14 30 30 S

145 9 30W

9 40 38W

Tarafcon

Eur.

France

43 48 30 N

4 39 36 E

18 38 E

Tarbes

Eur.

France

43 13 J»N

3 59E

j6 £

Taflacorta

Af.

Ifle Palma

a8 38 ON

17 58 oW

I II 53W

Temontengis

Afia

Soloo

5 57 ON

«3o'53 30 E

8 3 34 E

Tencriffe (Peak)

Af.

Canaries

28^7 ON

x6 40 oW

I 6 40W

Tercera

Eur.

Azores

38 45 N

27 6 oW

I 48 34W

Texel Ifle

Eur.

Holland

53 10 oN

4 59 oE

19 56 E

Thionville

Eur.

France

49 ai 30 N

6 10 30 E

34 43 E

Thomas St. (Ifle)

Am.

Virgin Ifles

18 ai ss N

64 51 30W

4. 19 36W

Thule (Southern)

Am.

Sandw. Land

59 34 S

%-i 45 oW

1 51 oW

Thury

Eur.

Fr.yice

49 21 38 N

3 i8 30 E

9 14 E

Timor (S.W. Point)

Afia

India

10 23 OS

133 59 E

8 15 56 E

ThnorLand (S. Point)

Afia

India

8 15 OS

131 54 E

8 47 36 E

Tobolflc

Afia

Siberia

58 12 30N

68 35 E

4 3.1 40 E

Tolaga Bay

Afia

N. Zealand

38 21 30 S

»78 3i 45 E

II 58 15 E

Toledo

Eur.

Spain

39 50 N

3 30 oW

13 3CW

Tomflc

Afia

Sibtria

56 30 oN

84 59 30 E

5 39*58 £

Tonga Tabu (Ifle)

Afia

Pac. Ocean

21 9 S

174 46 oW

II 39 4W

'I'onnerre

Eur.

France

4751 8N

3 58 44 E

»5 59 E

Torbay

Eur.

England

50 34 oN

3 36 oW

14 34W

Tornea

Eur.

Sweden

(>S 50 50 N

34 13 £

I 36 48 E

Toulon

Eur.

France

43 7 16N

J J5 26 E

33 43 E

Touloufe

Eur.

France

43 is 46 N

X 36 31 £

5 45E

Tournan

Eur.

France

48 43 57 N

3 45 15 E

II X K

Tours »

Eur.

France

47 23 46 N

41 32 E

2 46 £

Traitor's Head

A!ili

Erramanga

18 43 30 S

169 30 30 E

IX 17 33 £

Trieile

Eur.

Adriatic Sea.

45 51 oN

14 3 oE

56 13 E

Tiinidad

Am.

Atl. Ocean

20 15 S

126 43 oW

8 36 48 W

Tripoli

Af.

Barbary

32 Si 40 N

13 5 15 E

53 31 E

royes

Eur.

France

48 18 5N

4 4 34E

16 18 E

Turin

Eur.

Italy

45 4 14N

7 40 E

30 40 E

Turnagain (Cape)

Alia

N. Zealand

40 38 h

176 56 E

II 47 44 E

Turtle Ifland

Afia

Pac. Ocean

19 48 45 S

177 57 oW

II 51 48 vv

Tyrnaw

Eur.

Hungary

48 23 30 N

17 33 45 £

X 10 15 E

Uliateah

Afia 'Pac. Ocean

16 45 8151 31 oW|

10 6 4W

Unlal

Eur. jSweden

59 51 50 N

17 38 45 E

t,..io 3S E

Uranibsrg

Eur, :Denniark

55 54 38 N

12 43 44 E

50 51 E

Ulhant

Eur. ; France

48 a8 30N 5 4 33W

20 18W

T&i

INTRODUCTION.

Tie Latitudes and Longitudes of Places.

XCIX

Names of Places.

Cont

Sea or
■ Country.

Latitude.

Long
In Degrees.

tude.
In Time.

H.W.

/ //

' ti

h / n

b /

Valenciennes

Eur.

France

JO ai 27 >

3 31 40 E

14 18 E

Valery, St.

Eur.

France

5° n 1.1 ^

I 37 6E

6 a8E

VaUery,St.

Eur.

France

49 ja laJN

41 10 £

a 45 E

ValjKiraiib

Am.

Chili

33 a 36 S

72 19 15W

4 49 I7W

Van Dieman's Road.

.Vfia

Tonga Tabu

ai 4 ij S

174 56 24W

II 39 46W

Vannes

Eur.

France

47 39 14 N

2 46 26W

II i7W

Venoc

Eur.

France

43 43 16 N

7 7 a8E

28 30 E

Venice

Eur.

Italy

4J a6 7N

12 22 45 E

49 31 E

Venus (Point)

Afia

Otahcite

17 29 17 S

149 35 45 W

9 58 23W

lo 30

Vera Cruz

Am.

Mexico

19 9 38N

96 oW

6 24 oW

V«rd (Cape)

Af.

Negroland

14 43 45 N

17 3045W

Tio 3W

Verdun

Eur.

France

49 9 a4N

5 aa 41 E

21 31 E

Verotja

Eur.

Italy

45 a6 7N

n 18 30E

45 14 E

Verfailles

Eur.

France

48 48 aiN

2 7 7li

8 28E

Vienna (Obftrv.)

Eur.

Hungary

48 I a 36 N

16 16 22 £

I 5 30E

Vigo

Eur.

Spain

42 14 24 N

8 28 oW

33 5aW

Vincent, St. (Cape)

Eur.

Spain

37 3 ON

8 59 26W

35 58W

Vintimiglia

Eur.

Italy

43 53 20 N

7 37 30 E

30 30 E

Virgin Gorda (Fort)

Am.

Well Indies

18 18 oN

64 oW

4 16 oW

Virgin (Cape)

Am.

Patagonia

ja 23 S

67 54 oW

4 31 36W

Viviers

£ur.

France

44 a8 J7N

4 40 55 E

18 44 £

w 1

Wakefield

Eur.

England

S3 41 ON

I 33 30W 6 14W

Prince of Wales's Fort

Am.

New Wales

j8 47 30 N

94 7 30W 6 16 30 W

Waiiftead

Eur.

England

51 34 19 N

3 30E

10 E

Wardhus

Eur.

Lapland

70 22 3^N

31 6 45 E

2 4 27E

Warfaw

¥.MT.

Poland

5* 14 aSN

21 oE

I 24 2 E

Weftman (Ifles)

Eur.

N. Ocean

63 20 30 N

20 27 45 w

I 21 51W

Wexford

Eur.

Ireland

52 22 oN

6 30 oW

26 oVV

Weymotith

Eur.

England

ja 40 oN

a 34 oW

9 36VV

Whitehaven

Eur.

England

54 25 oN

3 15 oW

13 o\V

Whitfuntide (Ifle)

Afia

Pac. Ocean

15 44 20 S

168 ao 15 E

II 13 ai fi

William (Fon)

Afia

Beng,il

aa 34 45 N

88 a9 30 E

5 53 58 E

Willis's (Ifles)

Am.

S. Georgia

54 S

38 29 40W

a 33 59^^'

WUua

Eur.

Poland 1

54 41 oN

25 27 30 E

I 41 50 E

Wittenburgh

Eur.

Germany

51 S3 oN

la 44 30 E

50 j8 E

Wologda

Eur.

Ruflia

59 19 oN

Worcefter

Eur.

England

5a 9 30N

a ijW

8 iW

Woflak

Eur.

Rullia

61 15 oN

Wyke Church

Eur.

England

50 35 57 N

a 18 loW

9 53W

Wurtzburjjh

Eur.

Frauconia

49 46 6N 10 ij 4.) e; 40 ss E|

Ylo

\m.

l»er»

17 36 15 s

;r T3 cW

4 44 Styf

York J

Eur.

ingl.md

93 59 oN

r 6 40W

4 a7W

York (New)

\m.

lerl'ey

40 40 oM

74 II oW

4 56 44W

Yorkminller

A.m.

r. del Fue^o

55 a6 29 S

8 o>\

4 40 33W

MODERN

'^ai4*ia£:^**'.

,.*»l*.,--^-'A^ wi-r '

H-Jt-

i ■-

'♦'. n-

def

f' j'i . '-.' V ■ ."< f ■■i,.j r.

-f :-i -■«'] ""■■

', !

MODERN GEOGRAPHY.

' •' PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. ;^

_. ^ -| nPHE word geography is derifed from the Greek

JJEFINITIONS.J J^ language, and implies a defcription of the earth*
It is fometimes contrafted with hydrography^ which fignifics a defcriptisn
of the water, that is, of fe^, lakes, rivers, &c. thus including marine
charts: but in. general hydrography is rather regarded as a province of
geography. Both were anciently confidered along with aflronomy as
parts of cofmographyy which afpired to delineate the univerfe.

Geography is more juftly contrafted with chorography, which illuf-
tratcs a country or province ; and ftill more with topography^ which de .
fcribes a particular place or fmall diftridt.

What is called Genetal Geography embraces a wide view of the fubjeft,
regarding the earth aftronomically as a planet, the grand divifions of land
and water, the 'winds, tides, meteorology, &c. and may extend to what
is called the mechanical part of geography, in direftions for the conftruc-
tion of globes, maps, and charts.

Among the other divifions of this fcience may be named Sacred Geo-
graphy, lolcly employed in the illuftration of the Scriptures ; Ecclefiaftic
Geography, which defcribes the government of the Church, as divided
into patriarchates, archbiihoprics, biflioprics, archdeaneries, 6cc. with
their refpedlive boundaries, often varying much from thofe of the fecular
provinces : and Phyfical Geography, or Geology, which inveftigates the
interior of the earth, fo far as real difcoveries can be made ; for what
have been ftyled fyftems of the earth, which have confumed the labours
of many ingenious men, have no connexion with the folid fcience of
geology, but ought rather to be flyled cofmogonies, or ideal creations
of planets.

But Geography, popularly confidered, is occupied in the defcription
of the various regions of, this globe, chiefly as being divided among vari-
ous nations, and improved by human art and induftry. If a fcientific
term were indifpenfable for this popular acceptation, that of Hiftorical
Geography mignt be adopted } not only from its profefled fubfervience to
hiftory, but becaufe it is in fa£l a narrative fo nearly approaching the
hiftorical, that Herodotus, and many other ancient niftorians, have di-
▼erfiiied their works with large portions of geography, and the celr<
brated defcription of Germany bv Tacitus contains moft of the mate-
rials adopted m modern treatifes of geography.

Divisions of Geoor aphy.I In this popular point of view hiftorical
geography admits of three diviflons : i. The Ancient or Clailical, which
defcribes the ftate of the earth fo far as it was difcovered at diiferent
periods, but not extending further than the year of Chrift 500. 2. That
of the Middle Ages, which reaches to the fifteenth century, when the
difcoveries of the Portuguefe began to lay wider foundations of the

D fcience.

■^Hl^SS&miim'ii^-

2 PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS.

fcience. 3. Modern Geography, the fole fubjedl of the prefent work,
which, while it embraces the molt recent difcoveries, ftill remains capable
of great acccfllons, particularly in Africa j not to mention more minute
deficiencies..

The chief objoft of modern geography is to prefent the moft recent
and authentic information concerning the numerous nations and ftate*
which divide and diverfify the earth ; but on this fubjedl it is impofllble to
attain accurate ideas without a brief introdudlory view of the progrefs of
each nation and ftate. Thougli in fome few inftances natural barriers
have divided, and continue to divide, nations, yet in general the bound-
aries are arbitrary ; fo that the natural geography of a country, though
forming an efTential feature, hitherto treated with too much negleft in
geographical works, cannot be admitted to a predominance, but, on the
contrary, as matter yields to mind, may rather be regarded as a fequd in
hiftorical geography, which is chiefly occupied in defcribing the diverfi-
t"s of nations, and the conditions of the vatious races of mankind. On
this fubjeft there is no doubt room for a variety of opinions ; but, after
long conlideration, it has appeared moll eligible to prefer the following
order; i. The hillorical or progreflive geography of each country.
2. Its pohtical llate, including moll of the topics wliich recent German
writers, by a term of dubious purity, call llatillic. 3. The civil geo-
graphy, including objefts not fo immediately conntdted v/ith the govern-
mcnt, as an account of the chief cities, towns. See. 4. The natural
geography.

QtAUTiiUs OF THE vvoKM).] Tlie ancients confiJeredthe earth under
the three grand divifions of Alia, Euro|)e, and Africa ; yet, as they all
form one continent, the diliindions were arbitrary, as they often included
Egypt under Alia, and they had not difcovercd the limits of Europe
towards the nt)rth-eall. Modern difcoveries have to thefe added a fourth
divilion, that of America, which, exceeding even Afia in fize, might per-
haps as well have been admitlod undc r two grand and diftinA denomina-
tions, limited by the Illhmus of Dari'-n. It was fuppofed, till within
thefe thirty years, tliat iIktc exilled a vail continent in the fouth of the
globe, and many fchemes were formed fur coloniziiuj the wide and opu-
lent Terra yliijiralh ; but the fccond navigation of the inuiiortal Cook
difpelled this yilionary land from ge<5graphy, or dcmonltratcd, that if any
continent there exilled, it mull by loll in the uninhabitable ice of tiie
South Polo. Yet the vvido extent of New Holland rewarded the views
of enterprile. Too large for an iilandj too fmall lor u continent, New
Holland, like the other works of nature, eludes the petty dillindlions of
man ; and while geographers hefilate wiietlier to afcribe it to Afia, or,
with De Brolfes, to denominate it a fifth fpecific divifion of the globe, it
is not improbable that the popular divilion of four quarteri of the world
will continue to predominate over any Icientific difculllon. Of the grand
(Uvifions of the earth, Afia has ever been the moll populous, and is fup-
pofed to contain about 500,000,000 of fouls, if China, as recently averred,
gomprife 330,000,000. The population of Africa may be 30,000,000,
of America 20,000,000, and 150,000,000 may be affigned to Europe *.

Face ok tub globk.] Recent difcoveries have evinced that more than
two-thirds of tins globe are covered with water ; and thefe waters, whe-
ther oceans, feas, lakes, or rivers, arc contained in hollow fpaces more or
Vih large, which late French geographers have called li^mt% or baConajby

* Auflralafia and Polynefii, or Niw Holland, inii tits iflcs in Uie Pacific, probably d*
not loutiiiii abuva half a niilliva.

a tcri«

l»RELIMmARY OBSERVATIONS.

a term of little dignity. They may as well be called concavities ; while,
on the other hand, the chief convexities or protuberances of the globe,
ty the French llylcd plateaux^ confifl: of elevated uplands, fometimcs
crowned by monntains, fometimcs rather 'evel, as in the extenfive central
protuberance of Aiia. ^ In eitlier cafe, long cJiains of mountains com-
monly proceed from thofe chief convexities in various direftions ; and the
principal rivers ufually fprir.g from the moll elevated grounds. Though
the low and fertile plains generally perceivable for a long fpace before
rivers enter the fea areofteji depolked by their waters, as in the Delta of
Egypt and other initances, yet the geologift wbuld in Vain attempt go-
ncral rules ; while as on a fmall fcalc deep glens are found without any
rivulet, fo on a large one, vaft and extenfive hollows will appear without
the fmalleft trace of their having been pervaded by a river.

Oceans.] The grandcft concavity of this globe is filled by the Pacific
ocean, occupying nearly half of its furface, from the ealtern fliores of
New Holland to the Wellern Coail of America ; and diverfified with
feveral groups of iflands, which feem as it were the fummits of vaft
mountains cmerHng from the waves. This chief concavity, feparately
confidered, receives but few rivers, the chief being the Amur from Tar-
tary, and the Hoan Ho and Kian Ku from China, while the principal
rivers of' America run towards the eaft.

The next great concavity is that of the Atlantic ocean, between the
ancient continent and tlic new. A third is the Indian ocean.

The feas between the ardlic and antarftic circles and the poles haver
been llyled the Arftic and Antarftic oceans ; the latter having fup-
planted the Terra Aultralis, and being in faft only a continuation of the
Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian oceans ; while the Arftic fea is partly em-
braced by continents, and receives many important rivers.

Such are the moft profound concavities of the globe, while others are
filled by more minute feas, as the Mediterranean, the Baltic, and others
of yet fmall^'r extent till we defcend to inland lakes of frefh water.

Riviais.] Oblong concavities, fometimes of great length, mark the
courfes of the rivers ; which generally at firit interfed the higher
grounds,- till the declivity liecome more gentle on their approach to-
wards their inferior reccpt:iclcs. But as gi neral views are feldom precifc,
it mult not be forgotten, as already hi part obfervcd, that even large
rivers fometimes fpring from lowland marfhes, and wind through vaft
plains unaccompanied by any concavity except that of their immediate
conrfe ; while, on the other hand, extenfive vales and low hollow fpaccs
frequently occur dellitute of any llream. Rivers will alfo fometimes
force a piiflage, where nature \\^ erefted mountains and rocks againft it ;
and where the bajtn of the French would appear to be in another direc-
tion, which the river might have gained witn more eafe : fo eflrangcd is
nature from human theory. In like manner though the chief chains of r
mountains in Europe extend in a fouth-eallcrly andiiorth-wefterly direc-
tion, yet there are fo many exceptions, and fuch numerous and ini-
portant variations in other parts of the globe, that theory in vain attempti
to generalize. As mountains may be found in every dircAion of the
compafs, fo a river may rife from an inland lake or marfh, and force itt
way through rocky barriers of great elevation. In fhort, the theory of
the French geographers, though juft in general, mull not be too widely
accepted : and tl:e book of nature mult be regarded as the chief code of
confnltation.

CoNTiNKNT?.] From the vaft cxpnnfe of oceanic waters arifes in the
9nciej)t hcntifphere that wide continent which contains Afia, Europe,

£ i aud

•;>vV

'^'
^

•^

..^ife«i»i*fe-

4 PRELIMINARY^ OBSERVATIONS;

and Africa, and in the modern hemifphere the continent of America, now
difcovered to form as it were a'feparate ifland, divided by a ftrait of the
fea from the ancient continent. In the latter many difcoveries of -the ut-
moft importance to geography are of very modern date j and it is not
above fixty years fince we obtained an impeffeft idea of the extent of
Siberia and the Ruffian empire ; nor abdve twenty years fince ample,
real, and accurate knowledge of thefe wide regions' began to be diffufed.
So that vu fa<!it,Anierica may be faid to have been difcovered before Afia ;
and of Africa our knowledge continues imperfeft, while the neweft ob-.
fervatioys, inttead of diminifhing, rather increafe our idea* of its extent.

But the grandeit divifion of the ancient continent is Afia, the parent
of nations and of civilization : on the no.<.h-eaft and fouth furroundedby
the ocean ; but on the weft divided by an ideal line from Africa, and
from Europe by boundaries not very ftrongly impreffed by the hand of
nature. The Ruflian and'Turkifli empires extending over large portions
of both continents intimately connect Afia with Europe. Bur for the
fake of clearnefs and precifion, the chief merits of any work of fcience,
geographers retain the ftrift divifion of the ancient continent into three
great parts, facrificing a more minute to a more important diftin£lion ;
which if not ftri£tly natural is ethical, as the manners of the Afiatic fub<
je£ts of Ruflla, and even of Turkey, differ confiderably from thofe of the
European inhabitants of thofe empires.

As Europe is the feat of letters and arts, and the greateft exertions of
human energy in every department ; and is befides the native region of
the chief modern geographers, and that in which the readers are moft
intimately and deeply interefted, it is always the divifion firft treated ;
though the order is arbitrary, and Ptolemy, who has beeo ftyled th»
father of geography, begins indeed with Europe, but defcribes Africa
before Alia *. Before proceeding more minutely to confider the feveral
kingdoms and itates comprifed in this great divilion of the globe, it will
be proper, in compliance with an ufual and unobjedtionable form, to offer
a brief and general defcription of this diftinguiihed portion of the earth.

EUROPE.

*. I'T^HIS part of the globe is the fmallefl In extent, yieldiuj

*■' A confiderably to Africa. From the Portuguele cape,
called by our mariners the Rock of Lifbon, in the wefl, to the Uralian
mountains in the eaft, the length may^e about 3,300 Britifh miles;
and the breadth from the North Cape m Danifh Lapland, to Cape Ma.
tapan, the fouthern extremity of Greece, may be about 2,5(0. The
contents in fquare miles have been calculated with fuch diverfity of
opinion, fuch eftimates being in truth arbitrary and only comparative,
that it is fuificient to mention the medial number of about two millions
and a half. "^^

Limits.] The ancients had no juft ideas of the boundaries of Europe,
the name itfelf having feemingly originated from a fmall diftrid near the
Hellefpont, as the dillindtive name of Afia alfo fpread from the oppofite
fhore. More than a third part of Europe towards the north and eafl
has only been known with prccifion in modern times ; on the foutht the
«outiiieutal pait is limited by the Mediterranean fea, on the weft by the

* 1 h« btlt edition of hit mif s, Amft. 1 7 jo, plactt Africa firft.

14 Atlantic^

\menca, now
a ftrait of the
ries of -the ut-
f and it is not
the extent of
8 fince ample,
:o be diffufed,
I before Afia ;
Jje neweft ob-.
k of its extent,
ia, the parent
furrounded by
n Africa, and
y the hand of
large portionj
Bur for the
irk of fcience,
«nt into three
nt diftindlion ;
le Afiatic fub*
m thofe of the

:ft exertions of

itive region of

iders are moit

1 firft treated ;

^a ftyled th»

fcribes Africa

der the feveral

globe, it will

form, to offer

of the earth.

tent, yieldiug
ugueie cape,

the Uraliaa
)ritiih milc»i
to Cape Ma-
a,«o. The

1 diverfity of
comparative,
two milliong

;8 of Europe,
Iridl near the
1 the oppoTite
orth and eaft
le fouth, the
e weft by the

Atlantio)

, ^.—

_ .. V r' <■' ""'«N

1?;^

'L'

^^pi

i '^'"'^^

r'^%^.

Pi-oin ArreirtMiHit .» jihavt AUp of Kihiopr.

'••.' /,

,.►%; '\f^

■uMh c 4 jih«»t Maf of Kihiopr,

ifle
the

EUROPE.

Atlantic, which contains the furtheft European ifles, thofeof the Azores
and Iceland, Greenland being regarded as a part of North America.
On the north the boundary is the Arftic ocean, embracing the remote
ifles of Spitzbergen and Novaya Zemlia, or the New Land. Toward
the eaft the limits admit i)£ fome difcuffion. The Uralian mountains,
a grand natural limit, not extending to the ArAic ocean', the river
Cara, which flows into th^ fea of Karflcoy, is admitted as a boundary.
The Uralian boundary extends to about 56 degprees of north latitude t
to the fouth of which the grand confines of Europe and Afia have been
fought in the petty diilindlions of Ruflian governments. More natural
limits might be obtained by tracing the river Oufa from its fource to its
junAion with the Belaia. Thence along the Kama to the Volga, which
would conftitute a ftriking natural divifion, to the town of Sarepta j
whence a fliort ideal line, the only one admitted in this delineation, will
lead due weft to the river Don, which would complete the unafcertained
boundary ; that on the north and weft of the Euxine being clear and
precife.

- Ancient population.] The ancient population of Europe confifted
of the Celts in the weft and fouth ; the Fins in the north-eaft, and the
Laps or Laplanders, a diminutive race like the Samoieds of Afia, in the
furtheft north, and who feem to have enriched their original rude lan-
guage by adopting in a great meafure that of their more_ civilized neigh-
bours the Fins. Thofe ancient inhabitants, who feem to have been
thinly fcattered, were driven towards the weft and north by the Scy-
thians or Goths from Afia, whofe defcendants occupy the greater part
of Europe ; by the Sarmatians or Slavonic tribes, alfo from Afia, the
anceftors of the Ruffians, Poles, &c. and who were accompanied by the ■
Heruli, ufing what is now called the Lettic fpeech, to be found in
Pruflia, Lithuania, Samogitia, Courland, and Livonia, being akin to
the Slavonic language *, yet with many fliades of diftin^lion. From
Africa the colony of Iberi, and northern Mauretani, pafled into Spain at
a very early period. The later accefllon of Hungarians and Turks from
Afia may likewife be commemorated.

Progressive geography.] The progreflive geography of Europe
will be more aptly illuftrated in the defcriptions of each kingdom and
ftate. Suffice it here to observe that the ableft modern geographers, not
excepting D'Anville himfelf, have greatly erred in their views of the
ancient knowledge of Europe. Of Scandinavia the ancients only knew-
the fouthern part as far as the lakes of Weter and Wener. The Roman
fliips explored the fouthern fliores of the Baltic as far as the river Rubo
or the weftern Dwina, and difcovered the names of feveral tribes along
the fliores ; but of the central parts of Germany it is evident from the
maps of Ptolemy that they had no juft ideas : fo that the tribes which
he enumerates may be more juftly alfigned to the northern parts along
the Baltic, or to the fouthern on the left of the Danube. The Carpa-
thian or Sarmatian mountains were well known, but the line df 50 ' or
52° of north latitude muft confine the ancient knowledge in the north-
eaft. A fingularity in the ancient defcriptions has often mifled : for as
the mountains in the favage 'ftate of Europe were crowned or accompa-
nied with forefts, the fame term was ufed m feveral barbarous languages
(o exprefs either ; fo that the ancients^ often place important mountaini. ,
whefe the hand of nature had only planted large forefts. This remarl^ '

• Toek's View of Ruffi,«, i. 455.

become*

EUROPF..

becomes o/Tential In the comparifon of ancient ancl modern geography.
The Riphoean mountains are vainly fuppofcd to have been the Uralian
chain, which were to the ancients hid in the profoujidelt darknefs,, in-
ftead of a large forell runninu from eaft to well. The Sevo Mons of
Pliny, which lie pofitively amgns to the north of Germany, though
geographers in direft oppofition to his text transfer it to Norway, a
^region almoft as unknown to the ancients as America, mull be regarded
as a vaft foreft extending to fome promontory : and the Venedici
Montcs of Ptolemy are in the like predicament, for modern know-
ledge evinces that no fuch mountains exiit. Of all fciences perhaps
geography has made the mioft (low and imperfe£l progrefs ; and the
lirll reftorers of it place at random many grand features qf nature,
inllead of purfuing the recent and juft plan of giving an exadl delinea-
tion of the country, and afterwards exploring the real extent of ancient
knowledge.

Religion.] The Chriftian religion prevails throughout Europe ex-
cept in Turkey, where however at leali one-half of the inhabitants ara
attached to the Greek church. Wherever the Chriltian faith has pene-
trated, knowledge, induftry, and civilization have followed ; among the
barbarous tribes in the north the progrefs was unhappily flow, Scandi-
navia remaining Pagan till the eleventh century ; and fome Slavonic
tribes on the fouth of the Baltic till the thirteenth ; nay, it is not above
a century fince the Laplanders were converted by mifTions from Den%
mark. The two grand dillin£lions are catholics and proteftants : the
former ia the fouth, where the paflions are more warm and the imagina-
tion more delighted with fplendour ; the latter in the north, where the
fatisfaftion of the judgement predominates.

This univerfality of the Chriftian religion lias been followed by another
fuperlative advantage, that of conftitutiiig all Europe, as it were, into
one republic, fo that any ufeful difcovory made in one ftate palfcs to the
reft with celerity. In this refpeft Eunjpe has been compared to ancient
Greece ; and it is to be hoped that Rnifia will not prove another Ma-
cedon.

Climate.] This fair portion of the globe is chiefly fituatcd in the
temperate zone, if fuch diftindtions have not vaniflied from geography,
fince modern difcoveries have evinced, that the climate often depends ou
local caufes ; that the Alps in a fouthern latitude prefent mountains of
ice unknown in Lapland ; that the torrid zone abounds with water and
habitations, and may perhaps contain mountains covered with fnovv. Yet
freedom from the exceflive heats of Alia and Africa has contributed to
the vigour of the frame, and the energy of the mind.

Inland seas.] In a general view of Europe one of the moft ftrikinjf
and intcrefting features is the number and extent of the inland fear, ; jullly
regarded a« chief caufes of the extenlive indullry and civilization, aiid
confequent fuperiority to the other grand diviftons of the globe. Had
Africa been interfedted by a large inland fea from the weft, it ia probabl*
that the bleflings of induftry would have been widely fprcad. Among
inland feas the Mediterranean is juftly pre-eminent, having been the
centre of civilization to ancient and modern Europe. The columns of J-Jer-
cules marked its weftern boundary; being the mountain or rock of Abyla,
in Africa, now called Ceuta, and Kalpe in Spain, the Gibraltar of modern
fame. The length of the Mediterranean is about aooo miles to its fartheil
extremity in Syria ; but in ancient maps tlie length has been extended
to about 2500 miles. On its northern fide open two large gulfs, that of
Vvnicp and the Archipelago j the fonner being the Adriatic, the lattf^r
;■ ■ • ' • • . ' tlie

EUROPE. I

the Egean ^^^ of the ancients. From this lad a ftrait called the Hellef-
pont condufts to the fea of Marmora, tlie clafllcal Propontis : and an-
other now ftyled the ftrait of Conllaiitinople, tlie ancient Thracian Bof-
phorus, leads to the Euxinc or Black fea ; whicli to the north prefcnts
the shallow Palus Mocotis, or fea of Azof, tlie utmoft maritime limit of
Europe in that quarter. This wide expanfe of the Mediterranean is
beautifully fprinkled with iflands, and environed with opulent coafts,
abounding with the moll fublime and pidlurefque features of nature ;
tides are not perceivable except in the narrowcft ftraits ; but according
to naturalitts there is a current along the Itahan fliore from the weft to
the eaft, and towards the African coad in an oppofite direction. In the
Adriatic the current runs nortli-weft along Dahnatia and returns by the
oppolite fhore of Italy. The Mediterranean abounds with fifli, many of
which are little known in more northern latitudes. The chief fiftieries
are thofe of the tunny, of the fword-fifti, and of the fea-dog, a fpecies of
fliark, and of the diminutive anchovy. It is alfo the chief feminary of
coral, now known to be the work of marine infcfts. This fuppofod
plant is of three colours, the red, the vermilion, and the white ; and it?
greateft height is about eleven inches. It is equally hard in the fea and
in the air ; and is generally brought up by a kind of net from the depth
of 60 to 125 feet. To enumerate and afccrtain flioals and rocks is the
office of the hydrographer ; but fifhin'g banks are of general importance,
and fome are found near Sicily. The Black foa is faid to derive its name
from its black rocks or dangerous navigation ; but it is difficult to ac-
count for fuch terms often derived from the fertile and fuperftitious fancy
of mariners. The foa of A/of is polluted with mud, whence it was
ftyled Palus, or a marfti, by the ancients : it is united to the Euxine by
the ftrait of CaiFa, the ancient Cimmerian Bofphorus.

The fecond grand inland fea of Europe is the Baltic, by the Germans
called the Eaftern fea ; whence the Eafterlings of Englilh liirtory, people
from the ftiores of the I altic. This extenfive inlet opens from the Ger-
man fea by a gulf pointing N. E. called the Skager Rack ; and after-
wards paffi^s fouth in what is called the Cattegat, to the S. E. of which
is the Sound of Elfinore, a ftrait where vefFels pay a tribute of courtefy
to Denmark. The Baltic afterwards fpiVa!ds widely to the N. E. and
is divided into two extenfive branches called the gulphs of Bothnia and
Finland, both covered or impeded with ice for four or five months of the
northern winter. Ancient hiftorians even report tliat wolves have paflod
on the ice from Norway to Jutland ; and if veracious the rigour of the
feafons muft have greatly abated. The greateft depth of this fea is faid
not to exceed fifty fathoms. Swedifti naturalills pronounce that it lofes
about four feet in extent in the courfe of a century ; and that the water
does not contain above one-thirtieth part of fait, whereas other fea-
water often holds a tenth : this freftiiiefs they impute to the quantity of
ice ; and they alfo aflert, that when the north wind blows, the waters
become fo frefl\ that they may even be employed for domeftic ufes. Tide*
are unknown, and the fifti are few.

The third and laft inland fea of Europe is that called the White Sea
in the north of Ruffia, more known in Europe, and particularly to
Englifti enterprize, before the commerce of Archangel was fupplanted
by that of Peterftjurgh. To Ofter, in the reign of the great Alfred, it
was known by the name of the Qven fea ; and the Icelandic writers
ftyled it the fea of Ganviik, on the ftiore of wliich was their Biarmia,
The White Sea contains a number of fniall iflan4s } but the accounts yet
jjiven have been brief and unfatiafaftory,

B 4 ' ' Among

EUROPE.

Among the other maritirr.c divifions may be named the German fea,
fo called becaufe it watej-s the weftern fhores of ancient Germany, from
the Rhine to the extremity of Jutland. It is now often.ftyled, with fuf-
ficient impropriety, the North ft- a, a term probably adoplted by us from
the Dutch. It may be rcgardf d as a part of the Atlantic ocean, ter-
minating at the ftraits of Dover ; whence the Britiih Channel extends to
the weft. The bay of Bifcay is another large inlet of the Atlantic. The
Briftol Channel is rather the eftuary or wide frith of the Severn. Be-
tween Great Britain and Ireland are St. George's Channel on 'the fouth ;
the Irifh fea in the center, which leads to the North Channel. That
part of the Atlantic which pafles between Scotland and the extreme
range of the weftcrn ifles from Barra to Leuis has received no dillinft
appellation, though it may be aptly ftyled tke Hebudian Channel. To
the north of Scotland is the Deucalpdonian fea of the ancients ; which
being confidered as extending into and throughout the Baltic was alfo
ftyled the Sarmatian.

To the north of Europe is the Arctic ocean,' the difmal and folitary
refervo^r of myriads of miles of ice, the very flcirts of which, floating in
enormous mountains, crowned with brilliant pinnacles of every hue, do-
light the eye and appal the lieart of the mariner. Yet this enormous
wafte is in the hand of Providence a fertile field of provifions for the hii-
man race. Here the vaft battalions of herrings feein to feek a refuge
from numerous foes, and to breed their millions in fecurity. About the
middle of winter emerging from their retreat they fpread in three divi-
fions ; one towards the weft, which covers the fliores of America as .far
as the Chefapeak and Carolina, wliile another more minute fquadron
pafles the ftrait between Afia and America, and vifits the coafts of Kam-
ichatka. The moft memorable divifion reaches Iceland about the begin-
ning of March, in a clofe phalanx of furprifing depth, and fuch extent that
the furface is fuppofed to equal the dimenfions of Great Britain and Ireland.
They are however fubdivided into numberlefs columns of five or fix miles
in length and three or four in breadth, followed by numerous fea fowl,
and perceivable by the rippling of the water and a brilliant reflexion like
that of a rainbow. In April or May the vanguard of thofe allotted to
the Britifh dominions reaches Shetland, and the grand body arrives in
June ; towards the end of which month and througli that of July they
are in the greateft j^erfeftion, a circumftance well kno^vn to the Dutch
fiftiers, who then caught that fnpcrior fort which formed the grand fource
of the wealth of the United Provinces. From Shetland one divifion pro-
ceeds towards the eaft as far as Yarmouth, where they appear in Odlober.
The other brigade pafles to the weft along both fhores of Ireland. A
few ftragglers are found at irregular periods, having proceeded beyond
their powers of return ; but it is generally credited thfit millions regain
the Arftic ocean and depofit their fpawn about the month of Oftober.

To enumerate the fmaller gulfs, the ftraits, and other minute diver-
fities of the feas, either in a' feeble feries of names, or in a dry arithme-
tical table, vyould be fuperfluous, as they are beft ftudied in the maps,
and as that mode of communicating fcience is perhaps of all others the
most uncouth and repulfive, As well might hiftory be ftudied by the
barren repetition of a hundred names of natpfmen and warriors. But
this account of the European feas muft not be clofed without a few brief
hints on a fubjeft generally neglefted in works of this nature, the large
banks or comparative ftioals, fuppofed to be ridges of fubmarine moun-
tains, and which being frequently the refort of cod and other lifli, invite
the attention of national induitry. The Goodwin fands, off the coaft of
i '■ Kent|

EUROPE. f

Kent, are rather danjrerous to the manner, than inviting to the fiflier j
but on the coaft of Holland there are many banks which fupply excel-
lent fiOi, as turbot, foal, plaice,i:&c. Further to the north is the exten-
five Dogger-bihk, ftretching fduth-eaft and north-weft ; beginning about
twelve leagues from Flamborough head, and extending near 72 leagues
towards the coaft of Jutland. Between the Dogger and the Well
bank ta the fouth are the Silverpits of the mariners, which fupply Lon-
don with cod, a fifli which loves the deep water near the banks, while
the flat fifh delight in the (hallows. Near the Dogger-bank was fought
the noted engagement with the Dutch in 1781. The Ore and the
Lemon lie between thefe banks and the Britifh ftiores. To the north-
eaft of the Dogger-bank is the HornrifF, a narrow ftrip extending to
Jutland : the Jutts-Viffis a fund-bank, ftretcliing like a crefcent from the
mouth of the Baltic into the German fea.

The Mar-bank begins oppoiite to Berwick, but is only about fifteen
miles in length. Further to the eaft extends the I^ong Fortys, of great
extent, from Buchan Nefs to Newcaftle, and from 40 to lOO miles
diftant from the fhore. From the coaft of Buchan a bank alfo reaches
acrofs the German fea towards the Jutts-riff. What are called the Mon-
trofe Pits, as being in the latitude of that town, though to the eaft of
the Long Fortys, are hollows from three to four miles in diameter, from
feventy to one hundred fathom deep, with a foft muddy bottom, in a
bank of gravel about fifty miles long, under forty fathom of water.

In the open Atlantic the largeft bank is that of Newfoundland, re-
ferved for the defcription of the American feas ; but there is a con-
liderable bank to the weft of the Hebudes abounding with cod and
other fifh.

Rivers and mouxtains.] The chief rivers of Europe are defcribed
under the refpeftive countries through which they flow. Of the vaft
Wolga far the greater part is included in Europe : the Danube is the
next m fame ; and is followed by the Dneiper or Nieper, the Rhine, and
the Elbe. The moft elevated mountains are the Alps, which are followed
by the Pyrenees and the extenfive ridge which divides Norway from
Sweden. The Carpathian mountains, and the chain of Emineh or Ha3mus^
are, with the Appenines, of inferior extent and height. In the particular
defcriptions, thefe grand and immoveable features of nature, which un-
accountably have only attrafted due attention within thefe few years,
will be found to be illuftrated as far as the materials would permit.

GovEUNMENTs.] The kingdoms and ftates of Europe may be con-
fidered, i. As defpotic monarchies, as thofe of Ruflia and Turkey*.
2. Abfolute monarchies, as Spain, Denmark, Sec. : or, 3. Limited mo-
narchies, as the empire of Germany, kingdom of Great Britain, &c.
Since the fall of Venice, and the fubverfion of Swiflerland and Holland,
fcarcely an example occurs of permanent and fixed ariftocracy, or the
hereditary government of nobles. Of democracy, or, more ftridlly fpeak-
ing, eleftive ariftocracy, a fevv cities and fome Swifs cantons may preferve
a lemblance ; while France at the prefent hour is a military defpotifm
under the name of an empire.

Arrangement.] According to the plan of this work already ex-
plained, the various ftates of Europe will be arranged in three diyi-
iions, confidering them, according to their real confequence, as of the
firft, fecond, or third order ; and each will be treated al a length pro-
portioned to its weight in the political fcale, and the confequent in-
tereft which it infpires. A fmall ftate may indeed fometimes excite a
more juft curiofity than gne of larger dimeofions ; but fuch co>iideration»

arc

-',.,

EUROPE.

are foreign to an exa<^ fyilcm of geogr.'.pliy, detailed in a precife order
of topics, and extended witli impartial views over the whole circle of
human affairs. Foreigners may objcdt that too much fpace is allotted
to the Britifli dominions ; but the fame objeftious might extend to every
fyilcm ancient and modern, as the authors have always enlarged the
dcfcription of the countries in which they wrote. His native country
ought alfo to he the chief fubjcft of every reader ; nor can mych ufL-ful
kr.ov.'leJge (for our knowledge chiefly fprings from compaiifon) be
inilituted concerning foreign regions till after we luivc formed an intimate
acquaintance with our native land. It will alfo be underftood, that
tliough no point of fcience is more fimple or cljar than the arrangement
of ftatcs according to their feparate orders at a given period, yet it
would be alike idle and preftunptuous to decide the precife rank of a
rtate in each order ; for inltancf, whether France or Ruffia be the mon?
powerful. This part of the nrra.igcment mull therefore be i;U ftive ; ar.d
it is fufiicient that the Hates cf the fame order be treated with a funilar
. length of dcfcription.

At tlie beginning of the nineteenth century the European Hates com-
prized in the tiril order are : i. The united kingdoms of Great Britain
and Ireland : 2. France : 3. Ruflia : 4. The Aullrian dominions :
5. Thofe of Pruflia : 6. Spain : 7. Turkey : which laft cannot be fo
jnilly reduced to the fecond order ; for though perhaps approaching its
fall, dill it boafts the name and weight of an empire.

Under the fecond order have been arranged: i. Holland or tha
United Provinces : 2. Denmark : 3. Sweden : 4. Portugal : 5. Swif-
ferland. In the third are confidered the chief Hates of Germany, that
labyi inth of geography, and thofe of Italy. Tlie kingdoms ot Sicily
' nnd Sardinia miglit perhaps, if entire and unfliaken, afpire to the fecond
order : and an equal Itation might be claimed by the jundtive Elcftorate
Palatine and Bavarian, and by that of Saxony. But as fuch ftates only
form rather fuperior divifions of Germany and Italy, it appeared more
advifeaiile to confider them in their nati-ral intimate connexion with thefe
countries.

This explanation being prcmifed, the firfl dcfcription fhall be that of
the Britidi dominions.

ENGLAND.

:■>*■

CHAPTER I. •

, ' irr.«.Tonir,M. on I'liociUKssiVK (iF.oGnAi'nv.

Karnes. — T.xt. nl. — Original Popultitlon Roman, Saxon, and Nonpar

Uco^f(iphy. — hijiurical Epochs, and /tntlquUies.

ry IIP. Phenicianoarp generally fuppofed to have difcovcrcd
^ A \n-^. J J^ C'.reat Britain and Ireland at a period of very early ant iq^ui.
ty ; and fome fwppofe that the name of Britain originates from a Phenlcian
word, wliile others with more probability infer it to have been an indigenal
trnn derived from the Brets, tribes of which appellation may be traced
iu Gaul and iSeythia. Among the firft objca» of the Phenician in-

Ivrcouiftt

•ecife order
; circle of
; is allotted
lid to every
iilargt'd the
ive country
nych iif-jful
;aiifon) be
an intimate
flood, that
rrangtmciit
riod, yet it
rank of a
)e the more
kftivo ; and
ith a fimilar

ftates com-
reat Britain
dominions :
innot be fo
reaching its

land or the
al: 5. Swil"-
rmany, that
ns ot Sicily
to the fecond
e Eleftorate
:h ilates only
•pcared more
jii with thcfe

ill be that of

, and Norman

vc difcovercd
early ant iqui-
m a rhenician
n an indigenal
nay be traced
Plienician in-
tvrcouiftt

£?

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nation

ENGLANP.

tercourfe was tin, whence the Greek name of Cafilterides or the iflands
of tin, a name which in its firft acceptation feems to have extended
to Great Britain and Ireland, though afterwards confined to the ifles •
of Scilly, wher.* the metal does not appear to have been trSced in
modern times, , . -

The name of Anglia or England is well known to have origmated
from the Angles, a nation of the Cimbric Cherfonefe or modern Jut-
land, who fettled in the northern parts in the ilxth century. The eccle-
fiaftical hiftory of Beda, written in that part of the country which was
pofTefled by the Angli, feems to have contributed greatly to the extenfion
and general acceptation of the modern name.

Extent.] The ifland of Great Britain extends from fifty to fifty -eight
and a half de.grees of north latitude, being about 500 geographical
miles in length. Its greateil breadth, from the Land's End to the
North Foreland in Kent, 320 geographical miles. In Britilh miles the
length may be computed at 580, and the breadth at 370.

England is bounded on the call by the German ocean ; on the fouth
by the Engliih channel ; on the v^'eft by St. George's Channel ; on
the north by the Cheviot Hills, by the paftoral river Tweed, and an ideal
line falling fouth-well down to the Firth- of Solway. The extent of
England and Wales in fquare ]Xi'\\cs is computed at 58,335 ; and the po-
pulation being eftimated at 9,500,000, the number of inhabitants to a
fquare mile will be about 162.

Original population.] The earlieft inhabitants of England are fup-
pofed to have been tlie Gael or Southern Celts, called Guydels by the
Welfli, who regard them as their predecefibrs. Thofe tribes feem to have
arrived from the nearefl: fliores of France and Flanders, and were followed
by the Cymri or Cimbri from the fame regions whence the Angles after-
wards proceeded. But the Cimbri were northern Celts, the anceftors of
the modern WelHi. The Scythians or Goths from Afia having fclzed on
Germany and a great part of Gaul, gradually rrpelhng the Celts towards
the weft, appear to have fent colonies into England three or four centuries
before the Chriftian era ; for Caefar found many tribes of the B( Igs, a
German or Gothic nation, eftabliflied on the fouth and eaft of Britain.
Tliofe Belgae may be juftly regarded as the chief anceftors of the Englifli
nation ; for the Saxons, Angles, am. other northern invaders, thougn of
•'.iftinguiftied courage, were inconfiderable in numbers, and the Englifh
languajre bears more affinity to the Frific and Dutch than to the Jutlandic
or Daniih.

In the courfeof four Cvi.ituries of fubjcftion to the dominion of the
Romans, even the Bdgic colonies, unaccuftomed to the ufe of arms, had
forgotten their former valour. Preffed by ferocious invaders, they feem
to have ir.vited to their afllftance ilangeruus allies from the continent.
The Jutes arrived in the year 449, and founded the kingdom of Kcr.t
about the year 460 ; they alfo took poflefllon of the ifle of Wight. In
447 the Saxons firft appear, and the kingdom of the South Saxons
commences at that epoch. The Weft Saxons, arrived in the year 495.
The fixth century was confiderably advanced when thofe barbaric colonies
were increafed by the Ealt Saxons in the year 527 ; but the firft appear-
ance of the great branch of the Angles, who were to perpetuate their
name in the country at large, did not occur till the year 547, when the
vahant Ida led his troops to Beruicia. The Eaft Angles taking poffef-
fion of Norfolk in the year 575, the fouthern and eaftern coafts were
almoft wholly in the power of the invaders, who, foon extending their
4Jonqucft» into the interior of the country, founded in the year 585 the

^ . kingdom

<|r' ENGLAND.

kingdom of Mercia, the laft of the Heptarchy. Bedc pronounces
Mercia to have been an Anglic kingdom ; and if fo, the Angles might
perhaps have equalled in number the Saxons themfelves.

Progressive geography.] The knowledge of the progreflive geo-
i-aphy of any country is indifpenfably neceflary for the elucidation of its
iiftory. In the Roman period England was divided into the following
large provinces.

Britannia Prima, the whole fouthcm part as far as the mouths of the
Severn and the Thames. . .

Britannia Socunda, Modern Wales. • . -

Flavia CEefarienfis, from the Thames to the Humber.

Maxima Caefarienfis, from the Humber to the Tyne, from the Merfey
to the Solway,

A more detailed account of the Roman divifxons of England properly
belongs to ancient geography ; and the curious reader may be referred
to the works of Horfley and Roy, authors of defcrved eftimation.
Of the Saxon geography an idea may be derived from the following table.

1. Kent comprehended the county of Kent. ■

2. Suffex, or the South jSuffex.

Saxqns. "[Surrey.

f Norfolk. - ^ .

3. Eaft Angles* < Suffolk.

[Cambridgefhire, withthcifleof Ely,

Cornwall.

Devonfhire,

Dorfet.

Somerfet.

Wilts. '

Hants. . '

Berks.

Lancafhirp,

Yorkihire.

Durham. * ' ^^.- • ' .

Cumberland. ' ' '" ^' ■■

Weftmoreland. ■ '

Northumberland, and the parts of Scotland
to the Frith of Edinburgh.
rEfTex.

MiddlcfeXt ,

Htrtfordfhire in part.
'Gloucefter.

Hereford.

Warwick. " • "

Worcefter.

Leicefter.

Rutland. , ''

Northampton. " . . *

Lincoln. '• " "

- Huntingdon. ' • .

Bfedford. '. : , .'

Buckingham^ ' .,.

Oxford.

Stafford.

Derbjv '

>. Salop.

• 4. Weflex, or the Weft
Saxons.

r. Northumberland,

6. Eflex, or the E«ft
Saxons,

7. Mercia.

■'.: >

ENGLAND.

Salop.

Nottingham.

The reft of Hertford,

«3

The divifion into {hires is faid to have been kiftiCuted by the great
Alfred. Thefe departments are alfo ftyled counties, as having beftn
each governed by a Count in the Saxon times, ftyled Ealdorman, and
after the Danifti conqueft called Earl, from the Danifli larl, implying a
great man. The dignity and title becoming hereditary, the governmeJit
of the county devolved upon the Earl's deputy the Shire-reeve, fheriiF
or manager of the (hire. Yorkftiire being very extenfive it was divided
into three parts called in Saxon trithings, as a farthing is a fourth part,
and now corruptly called Ridings^

England proper is divided into forty counties, and the principality of
Wales into twelve, thus making the whole number of counties in South
Britain fifty-two ; of which the following is a lift, together with their
rcfpedtive chief towns.

Six northern
counties

Four bordering
■ on Wales

Twelve midland

Eight eaftcrn

Three fouth*
eaftera

Nvimbw of thluliitants
V according to the lute Chief Towni.

Enumeration.

" Northumberland
Cumberland

Durham

Yorkftiire " ^
Weftmoreland
Lancaftiire ■ >

i'Cheftiire
Shropftiire
Herefordftiire
Monmouthftiire

Nottinghamftiire

Derbymire

StafFordftiire

Leicefterftiire

Rutlandlhire

Northamptonftiire

Warwickftiire

Worcefterfhire

Gloucefterftiire

Oxfordftiire

Buckinghamftiire
. Bedfordfhire

Lincoln ftiire

Huntingdonftjjre

Cambridgefliire

Norfolk

Suffolk

Effex

Hertfordftiire
. Middlefex

Surrey

I Kent
SufTex

117,230
160,361
858,892
4i»6i7
672,731

191.751
167,639

89,191

45,582

140,350

161,143

239.153
130,081

16,356

131.757
208,190

>39.333

250,809

109,620
107,444

63.393
208,557

37.568
89,346

273.371
210,401

226,407

97.577
818,129*

269,043

307,624

'59.3"

■X

* ExcIufvJ of tht capital.

Newcaftle •

Carlifle

Durham

York

Appleby

Lancafter

Chefter

Shrewfbury

Hereford

Monijiouth

Nottingham

Derby

Stafford

Leicefter

Okeham

Northamptoa

Warwick

Worcefter

Gloucefter

Oxford

Aylefbury

Bedford

Lincoln

Huntingdoa

Cambridge

Norwich

Ipfwich

Chelmsford

Hertford

London

Guildford

Maidftone

Lewes

r
» ♦

'•i

lU"

i
♦'

ENGLAND.

Number of Inh ibitains
according ti» tlie late Chief Towiw.
Enumeration.

Four fouthcrn

Three fouth-
weitem

pBerkdiire
) Wiltlhire
"l Hainpfliire
[_Dorfetfhire

{Somerfelfhire
Devoiifliire
Cornwall
f Flint fliire
■ Denbiglidilre

c- XT ^1 TTT 1 ! Caernarvonfhire
Six, North Wales ^^^„g.I^.f^y

I Merionethfliire
[ Montgomeryfhire
f Radnorfliire

.1j\

IX,

I Cardiganfliirs
South Wales \ Pembrokelhire

Caermarthenfliire
'" Brecknockihire

^ Glamorganfhire

109,215

185,107
219,656

1 15.319

273»750
343,001

188,269
39,622
60,352
41,52'
33,8of)
29,506
47=978

i9>o5o
42,956
56,280

67.317
31.633
71,525

Reading

Sail (bury

Wiuchelter

Dorcheflcr

Taunton

Exeter

Launcefton

Flint

Denbigh

Caernarvon

Beaumaris

Bala

Montgomery

Prefteign

Cardigan

Pembroke

Caerinarthcn

Brecknock

CacrdifF

It 18 alfo generally believed that Alfred founded the fubdivifions of
counties called Hundreds and Tytliings, now^ feldora mentioned except
in hgal proceedings and in topographical defcriptions. The Hundred
probably contained one hundred farms, while the Tything was reltridcd
to ten.

In the Norman period of EngliHi liiftory few alteratior.s of confequcnco
nppcar in the geography. Cumberland and Weftmorelai.d were wrclted
froiT) the Scots, and the provinces nprth of the Humber, which had main-
tained a kind of independence after the cxtindion of tlic Dajiifh kiii^r.
dom of Northumbria, were completely incorporated v\it}i the monarchy.
On the weft Henry I. about the year 1 120 having conquered a part of
Wales, invited and eftablirtied a FlcmiHi colony in rv mbrokcfiiire, and
one or two others of the moft fouthern counties, whieh afterwards he-
came remarkable for induftry. The fubfequent conquell of Wales Ly
Edward I. and its gradual affociation with England, are fufficiently
keown.

Historical kpochs.] Geography has been ftyled one of the eyes of
hiftory, a fubfervience to which Itudy is undoubtedly one of its grand ob-
jefts ; but it would at the fame time be foreign to its nature to render it a
vehicle of iiiltory. The proper and peculiar fubjedts of geographical
< fcience are fo ample, and often attended with fuch difficult refearch, tliat
it becomes equally rafh and unnecefl'ary to wander out of its appropriated
domain. In this work therefore it is only propofed briefly to mention the
grand hiftorical epochs of nations, and thofe events which have altered
their ^boundaries and geographical relations. ,

1. The population of England by the Celts.

2. The Belgic colonies, who introduced agriculture.

3. The Roman conqueft. Britain was little more than feen by JuHiii
Cxfar. 'The Roman conqueft began in the reign of Claudius, and ia
that of Domitian the Roman Eagle had been difplayed as far as the
Grampian mountains.

4. The arrival gf tlic Saxons and Angles in the fifth century.

5. The

ENGLAND.

equcncc
wixlled
id n:ain-

itiarcby.

part of

lire, and

ards be-

ales by

iciently

L eyes of
Irand ob-
Indor it a
Graphical
■rcb, tbal
Toprialed
[iition tbe
altered

jy Juliui

^, and in
ir as the

:. TUc

^, The Danifli conqiieft, A.D. 1016. The Danifh monarcbs of
Eiiffland were Canute, Harold, and Hardicanute; but the fceptre returned
to the Saxon line A.D. 1042.

6. The Norman conqueft, A.D. 1066.

7! The great charter granted by John at Runnymede.

8. Not to mention the conqueft of Wales and the temporary fubjuga*
tion of Scotland, the civil wars between tlie houfes of York and Lan-
taller may be regarded as the next memorable epoch.

g. The reformation introduced by Henry VIH. and Elizabeth.

10. The civil wars under Charles I.

11. The Revolution of A.D. 168S.

12. The war with the American colonics forms not only an epoch of
fiiirrular novelty, but of the moft important confequences.

ANTIQUITIKS.3 Tlie ancient monuments of a country are intimately ■
connected with the chief epochs of its hiftory, and particularly with the
revolutions it has undergone by foreign conqueft or new population.
Tlie Enfi"h(h antiquities fall into fix diviiions. i. Thofe belonging to the
primitive Celtic inhabitants. 2. Thofe of the Belgic colonies. 3. Thofe
of the Roman!). 4. Thofe of the Saxons. 5. Rcliques of the Danes.
(,, Norman monuments. Few of thofe remains, it muft be confeflcd,
throw much light upon liiftory ; but many of tliem being intereftiiig and
curious in themfelvcs, they deferve the attention of the traveller and •
geographer.

Tliole of the firft Celtic inhabitants were probably, as ufual among
fav;ige nations, conftruded of wood, and of courfe there can be no re-
mains. Some rude barrows and heaps of ftonCs may perhaps belong to
the Druidic tribt^s, but Stonchcnge, the large Barrows or tumuli, &c.
S:c. more probably l;)i.'K>ng to the Bolgic colonics. Stonehengc is fitu-
at.'i near the capital 0*" the aacicut Relgx, and tliere is a fimilar monu-
ment, but faid to.be of far greater extent, i^oar Valines, a town on the
French coaft which was poifofred by the Bclgx. Similar monuments
alfo occur in Denmark aiul Sweden, and in Iceland even the date of
eredion is fom'-timm iileertaincd, thefe circles being familiarly known by
the name of Domh-r'iiigr, that is literally Doom-ring or Circle of Judg-
mont, being tiie foleinn places where courts were held. Yet Stonehenge
will he found on infpcction to fall fliort of the ridiculous exaggerations of
antiquaries, imprefilng every tr.iveller after tlie perufal of fuch accounts
with difappointed ideas of fmallnefs and wa.it of importance. Such idea»
are however unjuil, as it i^ a noble and curious monument of early times.
Tl'.ere appear to be tiirce princi])al circV's of ftones, the outer connefted
together by an uniform pavement as it were at the top, to which the
chiefs migfit afcend and fpeak to the furrounding crowd. A fccond
circle conlilLi of detached upriglit ftones about five feet in height, while
the higheft are eighteen. Within this is a grand oval, originally confift-
ing of five trilithons of two huge ftones eroded by another at the top
and inclofing fmaller ftones, which feem to have been feats, and a large
flat ftone commonly called the altar, ibut which feems to liavc been the
throne or feat of judgment. There is bcfides a very high ftone, towards
the north-eaft or rifing fun, and near this a large flat ftorre cncompafTed
with a mound, which is probably the real altar on which human viAims
were fometimes facrificed. There arc alfo two other ftones at a confider-
able diftance to the E. and W., and the whole feems to be in the midft
of a very extcnfive circle, marked by an earthen embankment almoll
effiiced by the lapfe of years, and afibrding fuflicient fpace for all the
males of the tribit or pation. The largcil ftones arc of filiclous fand'

iloncy

ENGLAND.

ftonej but the altar, or rather throne, is a calcareous fand-ftone *i The
finaller ftones are of grunftein or hornblen J mixed with felfpar. On its
flrft ereAion the appearance mull have been flriking, the large ftones be-
ing of pure white and the fmaller black.

After the eftablilhment of Chrillianity the circles of judgment, which
had been polluted with human facrifics and other pagan rites, were aban-
doned, and the great courts were held on wliat were called Moot-hills
or hills of mcetiv j^, many of which flill exift in the Britifh dominions and
in the Netherlanils.

The Roin-.m antiquities of England have been repeatedly illuftrated.
The greatell number of Roman infcriptions, altars, &c. has been found
in the north along the great frontier wall which extended from the weft,
em fea to the efhiary of Tyne. The Romnn roads were alfo ftrikiiag
monuments of their power. A grand trunk, as it may be called, to an.
ticipate the language of our inland navigations, pafied from the fouth to
the north, and another to the welt, with branches in almofl every direc-
tioN tliat general convenience and expedition could require. What is
called the Watling-ftreet led from Richborough in Kent, the ancient
Rutupiie, N. W. through London to Cheller. The Ermin-llreet paflccl
from London to Lincohi, thence to Carlille and into Scotland, the name
being fuppofed to be corrupted from Hcrmariy which means, warrior, as
the chief wars lay in the north. The Folic way is fuppofed to have led
from Bath and the wcllern regions N. E. till it joined the Ermin-ftrcet.
The lail celebrated road was the Ilkenild, or Ikneld, fuppofed to have
extended from near Norwich S. W. into Dorfvtfhire f .

The Saxon antiquities in England are cliieHy edifices, facred or fecu-
lar ; fome churchej remain which were for the moll part conllrudled
in the Saxon period, and fome are extant of the tenth or perhaps tin;
ninth century. The vaults eredled by Grimbald at Oxford in the
reign of Alfred arc jullly elleemed curious relics of Saxon architeAure.
Mr. King has ably ilhiilrated the remains of the Saxon caltles. The
oldeft feem to coniift of one folitary tower, fquare or hexagonal : one
of the rudell fpecimens is Coningfturg Caftle in Yorklhire ; but as
that region was fubjeft to the Danes till the middle of the tenth century
it is probably Danilh. Among the fmaller remains of Saxon art msty be
mentioned tlie Ihrines for preferviug relics, which fome fuppofe to prefent
the diminutive rudiments of what is llyled the Gothic architcfture ; and
the illuminated manufcripts, which often afford curious memorials of the
ftate of manners and knowledge. '

The Danilh power in England, though of confiderable duration in the
north, was in the fouth brief and tranlitory. The camps of that nation
ivere circular like thofe of the Belga; and Saxons, while thofe of Roman
armies are known by the fquare form : and it is believed that the only
diilindl relics of the Danes are fome caftles to the north of the Humber
and a few ftones with Runic infcriptions.

The monuments ftyled Norman, rather to diftinguifh their epochs than
irom any information that Norman architedls were employed, are reputed
to commence after the conqueft, and to extend to the fourteenth cen.
tury } when ^vhat is called the rich Gothic began to appear, which ia
the fixteenth century was fupplanted by the mixed ; and this in its turn
yielded to the Grecian. In general the Norman ftylc far exceeds the
Saxon in the Oze of the edifices and the decoration of the parts. The
f hurches become more extenfive and lofty, and though the windows rsr

tain t

doors

mals J

..or to\

courts

ditche

the cal

monun

and W(

rally fi

next it

great b

ed with

into vai

note, w

College

The fp]

about t!

dimiiuTli

* T»\vnfon'$ Tiafts, aa8.

f Cough's firit. Topog. i, lo.

taia

Religion.-
and Rt
Rkligioj

A STIC

iftic of a 1
tremes, tl
and defpoi
people, pr
while the
other extr
the only i
its ancient
;inark, Swe
of the clei
with irenat(
bifliops are
bUitv. Ye

Lutheran.

explained ii

will be moi

Upon hi!

Henry VI

Next in dig

the firft beii

England.

royal family

province, ar

Oas^Ifofou^

ENGLAND.

tain the circular arch they are larger and more diverfified j the circular
doors are feilooned with more freedom and elegance, and uncouth ani-
mals begin to yield to wreaths of leaves and flowers. The folitary keep
^or tower of the Saxon caftle is furrounded with a double wall, indofing
courts or dwellings of large extent, defended by turrets and double
ditches, with a feparate watch-tower called the Barbican. Among others
the cathedrals of Durliam and Winchcller may be mentioned as venerable
monuments of Anglo-Norman architedture, and the caftles are numerous
and well known. What is called the Gothic or pointed arch is gene-
rally fuppofed to have firft appeai'ed in the thirteenth century, and in the
next it became univerfal in religious edifices. The windows diffufed to
great breadth and loftinefs and divided into branching interftices, en;-ich-
ed with painted glafs, the cluftering pillars of exceflive height fpreading
into various fret-work on the roof, conftitute, with decorations of fmaller
note, what is called the rich Gothic ftyle, vifible in the Chapel of King's
College, Cambridge, and many other grand fpecimens in this kingdom..
The fpire of thole edifices correfponds with the reft, and begins
about the thirteenth century to rife boldly from the antient tower and
diminiili from the fi^ht in a gradation of pinnacles and ornaments.

CHAPTER II.

POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

HO.

Religion. — Eccleftajl'ic Geography. — Government.'-— Judicature an J La<tvf.
— Population.-— /Irmy. — Navy. — Revenues. — Political Importance
and Relations.

Religion and ecclesi-'T*HE church of England is eftablifticd upon
ASTic GEOGRAPHY.] A a moft peculiar balis, and truly charaAer-
iflic of a moderate and judicious nation. As in the political fyltem ex-
tremes, the ufual concomitant of inexperience, awe carefully avoided,
and defpotifm or anarchy from whatever fource, monarch, nobles, or
people, prevented as far as human wifdom can devife ; fo in the church,
while the papal power and other, catholic chains are profcribed, tha
other extremes tending to loofe democracy are equally avoided. It is
the only reformed church which has retained the epifcopal form in
its ancient fplendour ; for though bifhops may alfo be found in Den-
mark, Sweden, Norway, &c. they are rather inipeflors of the condu£t
of the clergy and of the modes of education, than prelates endowed
with fenatonal rank and dignity. In England on the contrary, the
bifliops are peers of parliament, and have the ftyle and importance of no-
bility. Yet the creed of the Englifti church is rather Calviniftic than
Lutheran. But the fpecial tenets of the Englifh church are fufficiently
explained in the thirty-nine articles ; and a brief idea of its government
will be more pertinent to the prefent purpofe.

Upon his difputc with the pontiff to avoid any claims of fupcriorityj
Henry VIII. (eized the title of fupreme head of the national church.
Next in dignity and power are the archbi/hops of Canterbury and York,
the firft bemg ftyled Primate of all England, and the fecond Primate of
England. The archbifhop of Canterbury precedes all perfons except the
royal family ; he has the power of probate of all teftaments within his
province, and of granting feveral difpenfations concerning benefices ; he
bas^fe four (jourts of judicature) that of Arches, of AA(diCQ$e, of Preru-

^ ^ativc,

ENGLAND.

gative, end of Peculiars. In other refpefts the archiepifcopal office la
rather a dignity than a jurifdidion, and the primates rarely interfere in
any diocefes except their own. They are appointed by the king in the
fame manner as the biihops, by what is called a Conge d'EIire, or leave
to eleft.

Ujion any vacancy in an epifcopal fee, the dean and chapter apply to
.the king, who returns a Conge d'Elire, naming the perfon to be chofen.
A chapter of tlie prebendaries is then fummoned by the dean, and they
are condrained under the penalty of 2i pramunire to eleft the perfon no-
minated. The folemnity is completed by the royal aflent under the great
feal, and by the confirmation and confecration performed by the metro-
politan or in his name. The prelate afterwards pays homage to the king
for his temporalities, or the baronies conne£ked with the fee ; and com-
pounds for the firil fruits, that is, the revenue of the firft year, which is
paid to the corporation for increaling the benefices of the poor clergy.
The omiffion of confecration is the only difference when a bifliop is tranf-
lated to another fee ; and when an archbifhop is nominated, the king ap-
points four or more bifhops to officiate at the confirmation.

Tlie biHiop alone may ordain deacons and priefts, dedicate churches
and burial grounds, and adminiller confirmation. In former times epi-
fcopaljurifdiilion extended to tlie Hcenfing of phyficians, furgeons *, and
fchoolmailers, and to the conjunftion of fmall pariflies. At prefent it
chiefly embraces queftions of births, marriages, deaths, and tellaments,
and any delinquencies of the clergy ; to which body indeed their atten-
tion is now chiefly confined, and they rarely, except in parliament, inter-
fere in fccular fubjedls. The bifliop of Sodor and Man has no place m
parliament. Ail the other bifliops are barons and peers of the realm by
three different claims ; in riglit to the baronies attached to their fees, as
barons fummoned by writ, and as barons by patent, a form which accom-
panies their confecration. Their privileges approach tlie regal ; they are
fole judges in their own courts, and iffue writs in their own names, not in
the royal ft.yle ufed by other courts. They can depute their authority,
which no other judge can ; and their epifcopal power of conferring or-
dt'rs, &c. may be exerted in any Chriftian country, while lay peers are
only acknowledged in the country whence tliey derive their dignities.
To pafs other more minute privileges, the bilhop of I^oiidon, as prefiding
over the capital, has the precedence of all the others, and the colonies
are regarded as in his diocof<'. The fee of Durham conlUtutes a
country palatine, with great powers and prerogatives : the authority
and patronage of the bifliop arc of courfe very extenfive, and even the
■ king's judges fit in his diocd'e only by his permiinon.- The bifliop of
Winchefter is the third in dignity, but efleemed the firil in opulence,
as the large civil Hi! of Durham, while it adds power, diminiflies revenue.
Thcfe three bifliops precede all the reft, who take pluce according to
the feniority of confecration.

• To every cathedral in England belong feveral prebendaries as canons,
and a dean, fo llyled, as is faid {Decanus^ ber-aufe he anciently prefided
over ten canons. In the old quaint language he was called one of the
bifliop'a eyes, while the archdeacon wlio had charge of the deacons was
reputed the other. TJie dean and chapter of prebendaries affift the bifliop
in eCclefiaftic affairs. The prebendaries are fo llyled from the prebend
or pars prahendiii a portion of land or income allotted to them ; and, with

• F.st\\ now any perfon obtaining a licence from the tonrt of the bifliop of his dioceCt
nijy pri^iifei and thft archbilliop of Canterbury may confer a difloma of M. D.

'-( ,,- the

ENGLAND.

the dean, form a body, college, or corporation ; and they have feveral
privileges fuperior to the common or minor canons. At the reformation
their falaries were moftly converted into money, but thofe of Durham pre-
ferred the ancient portions of land ; which having prodigioufly increafed
in value, they are now ftyled golden prebends, being worth from 800I. to
1 200I. a year, while the bifhop out of 9000I. a year has to fupport u
great and unavoidable expenditure.

The next order is that of the irch-deacons, amounting in all to about
fixty ; their office is to infpedl the moveables of the churches, to reform
flight abufes, and to induil into benefices. Arch'-priefts, who on the
Continent fliare the labours of the arch-deacon on a fmaller fcale, being
fuperintendants over a few pariihes, were in England alfo ftyled rural
deans, a clafs ftill conimon in fome parts of England, where they nearly
fuperfede the arch-deacOn in the duties of his office. Subdivifions of
government are fo much controuled by the very nature of human affairs,
that the power of the arch-prieft almoft correfponded with the Scoti(K
prefbytery, while the provincial fynods are fimilar to bi(hoprics.

Or the clergy in general, the loweft order is that of deacons, whofe
office formerly was to fuperintend the poor ; the ancient donations to the
church being always affigned in three divifionst one to the poor, mother
for repairs, and the laft for the clergy. At prefent the deacon's office is
reftrifted to baptifm, to reading in the church, and affifting the prieft at
tlie communion by handing the cup only. Deacon's orders cannot be
canonically received before the age of twenty-three years, thofe of a prielt
require twenty-four, and a bifhop mull be thirty. 'The curate is a cler-
gyman appointed to officiate for another, and is fo named from his having
the care of fouls ; hence the French rather apply the term to the reftor.
If the predial or great tythes of the parifh be impropriated, or converted
into fecular hands, the prieft is termed a vicar, a name originally imply-
ing that they were the vicaril, or deputies of the reftor ; but if the tythes
be entire, the prieft is ftyled rcftor. The churchwardens fuperintend
the repairs and decorations of the church, and the requifites for divine .
fervice, and coUeft the alms of the parifliioners ; they are annually elefted
at Eafter, and have fomctimes fidefmen, a kind of affiftants. The facrif-
tan, corruptly called fexton, originally had the care of the furniture and
plate of the church ; and by a ftill greater corruption the appellation is
now applied to the grave-digger, when it ought to have been conferred
on the pariffi-clerk.

The clergy in general cr.joy fome peculiar privileges. Their goods
are free from tolls in ftiirs or markets : they cannot be compelled to any
office civil or military : they are only amerced according t. th:\r tem-
poral eftate : nor are they affeffed for a robbery committed i ; -le hun-
dred, or for watching, warding, highways, &c. &c.

Ecclefiaftical courts ftill retain coiifiderable power : the convocation,
confifting of the archbifhops and bifhops, with a lower hc.ife of 150 mem-
bers, only meets for the fake of form ; but have not *ic.;n allowed to de-
liberate lince the reign of Anne.

Next in digriity is the court of delegates, adling by a fpecial commiflion
under the great feal ; and to whom an aj peal lies from the higheft ix»c-
tropolitan court. The court of arches is fo ftyled becaufe it was held in
the arches of the church St. Mary-le-bowe, London, but now in the
great hall, Doftors Commons ; only dodlors of the civil laws are allowed
to pleadt The court of audience is always prefided by the archbiihop
himfelf, who decides any doubts concerning the admiffion to benelicc«
and difpenfation of the banns of matrimoav. • .- I V ' :'

C 2 ' ' The

mmmlitii>^-

England.

5-
6.

7-
8.

10.

II.

The next court is that of preroffative, which jad^s of eftates fallen
by will, or inteftate ; the prerogative office is likewife in Doftors Com^
mens. The court of peculiars refers to feveral peculiar parifhes exempt
from the jurifdiAion of the bifliops, but here amenable : the judges are
fole and without jury.

The ecclefiaftical geography of England may be fetn in the following
fable :

Province of Canferbvry.
The Archbiftiop, Canterbury and part of Kent.

1. Bifhoprick of London, containing Effex, Middlcfcx, and part of
Hertford.

2. Winchefter.— Surry, Hampftiire, Iffes of Wight, Jerfey, Guernfcy,
and Aldcrncy.

3. Litchfield and Coventry. — Stafford, Derby, and part of Warwick
and Shropfhire.

4. Lincoln. — Lincoln, Leiceller, Huntingdon, Bedford, Bucking,
ham, and part of Hertford.

Ely. — Cajpbridgefhirc.

Salin>ury. — Wilts and Berkfliire.

Exeter.— Cornwall and Devon.

Bath and Wells. — Somerfetihire.

Chichefter. — Suflex.

Norwich.— Norfolk, Suffolk, and a fmall part of Cambridge.

Worcefler — Worcefter, and part of Warwick.

12. Hereford.— Hereford and part of ShropfKire.

13. Rochefter. — Part of Kent.

14. Oxford. — Oxfordfhire.

15. Peterborough.— Northampton and Rutland.

16. Glouccflcr.- Glouccftcrfliirc.

1 7. Briftol. — The city of Brillol, part of Gloucefterfiiirc, aiid count jf
of Dorfet.

18. Llandaif.-'OIamorgan, Moiunouth, BrecknoQk, and Radnor.

19. St. David's.— Pembroke, Cardigan, and Caermarthen.

20. St. Afaph. — The greatell part of Flint, Denbigh, and Mont.
^omcry, and fomc part of Shropfhire.

2 1 . Banggr.— The counties of Anglefcyj Caernarvon, Merioneth^ and
part of Denbigh and Montgomery.

Province of Tort*
The Archbilhop, the Counties of York and Nottingham.

22. Durham.— Durham and Northumberland.

23. Carlille. — Great part of Cumberland and Weftmorcland.

2I. Cheller. — Chefhire, Lancaihire, Richmundfhire (wliidi iipartoC
York ) ; with part of Cumberland and Weftmoreland.

2C. Iflr of Man.

1 ne valuations in the king'* books are omitted, becaufc even the com-
parative valuation would lead to ideas whollv erroneous. Several change*
nave taken place in the number and fituations of the bifhopricks fnicc
Chriftianity was firfl eftablifhcd in this country, but thcfe rather belong
to the province of the antiquary.

Thofe who differ in tenets or forms from the eftablifhod church m«)',
in general, be flyled Diffenters, though the term be more ftri6Uy apphed
to the Prefbytcrians and dependents. The otlier principal claMcs of
the diifidents are the Pauw^s, Methodifts, Quakers the fiaptifts, tlio
JBwcdenborgianS) and the Unitarians \ tlie kft cla£i dciiyinj^ the Trinity,

uiii)

ENGLAND.

and believing only in one God, is now intermingled with the two firft,
who have confiderably relaxed the llridlnefs of their diicipline. The
Independents affert, that each congregation has a right to regulate itfelf,
while the Pren}yteriaiis unite churches under various divilions, provincial
and national. The clerical arittocracy of the Prefbyterians was obtruded
with great haughtinefs upon the Engliih nation during the civil war in
the laS century, and was rendered the more odious, becaufe it admitted
no toleration : hence the EngHHi found that they had only exchanged
one yoke for another, or rather for flavery, as ten prefbyters amounted
to one bifhop, and fuperadded the petulence and mArofencfs of individual
inquifitors. Milton and other friends of freedom foon began to fatirize
the whole fe£l, and to fly for refuge to the independents, whofe bene-
volence or addrefs granted univerfal toleration. To this body Cromwell
lent an iron hand ; and after annihilating the Prefbyterian power in Eng-
land, in a great meafure fubverted that of Scotland. The intolerant
fpirit of the Prefbyterians originated with their apoille Calvin, whofe
cruelty to Servetus was balanced by furprifing talents in clerical po-
lity : It rendered their power Hngularly adverfe to letters and tafte |
and no man of fciencc who had Itudied the literary hiftory of this coun-
try would wifli for the revived of fuch domination. But at prefent
Calvin would not rccognife his difciples, as they have abandoned their
polemical thilUes, and cultivate the molt elegant productions of the li-
terary Beld. The papills ufed chiefly to abound in Lancafhire, Stafford*
(hire, and Suflfex ; they had potent chiefs, and were a formidable body ;
but the paflage from fuperllition to contempt is fo natural, that many
have flei to the oppofite extreme. Thofe who retain their faith gene-
rally difplay moderation, which has been naturally increafed by the late
privileges extended to them.

The methodiils are extremely numerous and refpcftable. They feem
to allow the propriety of the creed and government of the church of
England ; but they require a more ftri£t lite, more fervent devotion, and
more frequent and ferious attendance upon divine worlhip than is en-
fi)rced by the eRablifhment. A philofophcr may well envy the mild
creed and univerfal charity, or fraternal love of the quakers ; while we
mud allow with a figh that a nation of quakers could not exill, except all
nations were of the fame perfuafion. The Baptifts difovvn infant bap-
tifm, and bathe the adult difciple. The learned Whi (Ion admired their
tenets and their prai^icc of anointing the Tick with oil, which,' as he be-
lieved, operated with miraculous power. The Swcdenborgians derive
their name from the Baron Swedenborg, a nobleman who exchanged
his native country of Sweden for a rclidence in England. After liav-
iiig publifhed two folio volumes in the Latin language upon the art of
exploring mines, he was fcized with a violent fever, and with great dif-
ficulty recovered. In his difordered imagination he fcemcd to maintain
a frequent intercourfe with the fpiritual world ; and he has publifhed
twenty or more vaft volumes in quarto, alfo in the Latin tongue, replete
with curious metaphylicul ratiocuiation, interfperfod with vilions, which
are fometimes narrated with higii poetical fpirit and elegance. His fyilem
is fo much adapted to the (Irongeil propendties of human nature, that
his difciples encrepfed with great rapidity. His chief tenets are, that
there is but one perfon of the Deity, namely, the Lord Jefus Chrilt |
that the day of judgnu-nt is already paffed, &c. &c. | but his moll allu-
ring tenets partake of Muhometanifm, in reprcfcnting the connubial plea^
tares and the other enjoyments of a futua* worldj wluwh he paints at

C 3 finuUr

^^|i:

-jTlt'itfiiiMilifci

ENGLAND,

fimilar to this ftate of exiftence, but far exceeding it in the gratifications
of every fenfe whether mental or corporal.

For the following obfervations on this important fubjedl the author is
indebted to a well-informed friend.

** Although the denominations Prejbyter'tan and Independent are ftill
*' applied to two large bodies of diffenters, yet it may be queilioned
*' whether either of thefe parties coincides exactly in principles and dif-
** cipline with its predeceffors. With regard to the tiril, it is certain
** that in both refpeAs they have deviated widely from their ancettors.
*' With the exception of one only in the moft northern part of Eng-
** land, there is at this time no Englijh Prejhytery ; the Englifti Diflent-
•• ers, who ftill go by the name of Prefbyterians, have aflumed the con-
** gregational independuMice of the other ftdt, and each fociety is now
*• governed, by different methods indeed, by its own members exclufive-
•' ly, without being in the leaft fubjedted to the domination or interfer-
** ence of any other, or of any fynod of miniilers. The congregations
** ftill denomniated I^reft)yterian, have alfo changed their rehgious creed.
♦* None of them nov^ are Calviniftic, and they differ widely from each
** other ; fome being Amiinian, others Avian, others Unitarian, but moft
** of them compofed of a mixture of thefe ; ftritl uniformity of opinion
*• being feldom found' in large focieties.

*♦ The Independents have adhered more clofely to the difcipline of
<♦ their anceftors, though among them ihades of difference appear in
** their internal management. They are now univerfally Calviniils,
*• though fome hold the dodriiies of the reformer lefs ftridtly than
*♦ others.

<♦ The Baptifts, who form the next great clafs of Englilh diffenters,
** are divided into two bodies, which are denominated Particular and
<* General Baptifts. The former are Calvinifts, and differ from tlie In-
" dependents only on the fubjcft of baptifm. The Gnft'ral Baptiftn
** derive their name from being advocates of general redemption— that
<* is, being Arminians. Many of them are now SabeUiaiis, Arians, and
** Unitarians ; but ftill all of tliem oppofe tlie baptifm of infants.

*• The appellation //n^-baptift is not admitted by this refpedible body
♦• asjuft or appropriate. It was originally applied to tluni by way of
** reproach as iv-baptifers of thofe wi;om they received into their com.
*• munion by immerfion. As however they did not confider infant
.** fprinkling to be a Chriftian ordinance, or the baptifm which Chrillianity
•* required, they regarded their own baptifm as the only one which the
♦* party had really received. In their opinion, therefore, lie was not
** ana-baptifed. The term Anabaptift, as it ought, is now difcarded,
♦• and that of Baptift properly fnbftituted in its Head. *

" It is to be obfervcd, that what is called the • General body of Dif-
•♦ fenters in London' confift^ of thefe ihrce claffcs only : that is, the
•* Preft)yterian8, Independeiii ,, and Bantiils, including the General and
*• Particular Baptifts. They hold a friendly conference once a year al
«• the great room in Dr. Williams's library. Red-Crofs-ftreet, which is
»♦ lent to them for the purpofe by the trullees. It is at thefe annual
*• conferences, or at fpvcial meetings of the fame denominations convened
" for the purpofe, that all public incafnres relating to tlie diffentersj
^* fuch as addreffes to the throne, &c. ori^;inate, or are carried on. Upon
♦♦ occafions of importance, however, they advife with their brethren in
♦• other parts. The congregations of thefe denominations have befides
** a body of deputies, two from each, who arc deputed as a ftanding
• ^ " committee

ENGLAND.

and
ul
h is
ual
ncd

ITS,

poll
I ill
ides
liiiK
ttto

({

« committee to watch over their civil rights, with power to refort to
u legal profecutions in defence of any privilege which may be encroached
" upon by ignorant or bigoted perfons.

« The Metbodt/is are divided into two claffes, the followers of Whit-
« field, who are Calvinifts of the llridleft kind, and of Wefley, wIk) are
«« Arminians. Both claffes, altb lugh they had feparate chapels for wor-
« (hip, which they conduced ">i\ lI"; plan of the generality of diffenters,
« without a fet form or liturgy, .-etained their allegiance to the Church
«• of England, by remaining in communion with it, and refraining from
«' adminiftering the Lord's fupper in their chapels. I believe the Whit-
«* fieldian Methodifts ftill preferve this rule. A fliort time fince a grand
*« fchifin took place among the Wefleyans on the fubjeft. The leced-
«* ing party, confiding of about one half, more or lefs, of the body,
" feparated on the ground of a total nonconformity with the eftablifiied
" church, and have introduced the praftice of adminiftering the ordi-
«* nance of the Lord's Supper in their own places of worihip, as done
'< by the other diffenters. They ftill retain generally, however, the

difciphne of Wefley in their internal government,

*« The Unitarians until lately were only found fcattered as individuals

in other congregations. Of late, however, their number has confi-
« derably increafed, and there are, at this time a confiderable number of
" congregations avowedly Unitarian in different parts of the country,
" and feveral in the metropolis and its neighbourhood."

Government.] It is difficult to give a brief idea of the Enghfli con-
ftitution, which prefents an infinite number of pradlical ramifications, and
is intimately connefted with the fpirit and martners of the people. A mere
outline muft here fuffice. It is a limited monarchy, counterpoifed by two
feiiates, one of hereditary peers, the other of reprefentatives, who are or
ought to be chofeii by tlie people. The liability and real power of thefe
fciiates depend on a general coiicurrencc with the popular voice, arifing
partly from the mode of elcdioii, and partly from the fympathetic grar
dation of ranks.

Our lawyers pronounce that the king of England unites in his perfon
the dignity of chief magiftrate with the fandlity of a prieft ; and the title
of Sacred Majefty appears to have commenced when he affumed the
fanftion of Head of the Church. So auguft is his perfon that even to
imagine or intend his death is a capital offence, when in all other cafet
the deed alone is punifhable. Fortefcue in his old emphatic language
has defcribed the office of tlie king of England to be ** to fight the
battles of his people, aiul to judge them with moft righteous judgment,'*
At his coronation he foloniiily Iwcars to govern his people according
to parliumeutary ftatutes, and the law of the country \ to maintain the
Proteftant religion ; and to preferve the legal rights ajid privileges of the
hilhops, clergy, and rhurch.

The ackiiowledijed prerogatives of the monarch arc chiefly to declare
war and to make peace, a power udoh which the whole of public pro.
fpority may be faid to depend ; to form alliances and treaties ; to grant
toniniiffion for levying men and arms, and even for prefiing mariners.
To the king ulfo bektiig all magazines, ammunition, caftles, iorts, ports,
huvens, and iliips uf war ; he lias alfo the fpecial management of the
coinage, and determines il)c alloy, weight, and value. The prcrogative
likewife extends to the affembling, adjournmcut, prorogation, and difp
Solution of parliament, and to its removal t«) any place. The royal
»ffent is neceffary to give validity to an aft of parliament. The fovoreign
alfu viijoyi the iiuminatiun uf all officcr.H on fca or land i of all ma>

C 4 giilrates,

wnmsmimim^-

ENGLAND.

giftrates, counfellars, and officers of ftate ; of all blfliops and other
great ecclefiaflical dignitaries ; and is not only the fountain of honour
but of juftice, as he may pardon any offence, or mitigate the penalty.
As head of the church he may call a national or provmcial fynod, and
with its confent enaft canons either relating to faith or pra£^ice. The
other prerogatives are more minute and more adapted to jurifprudential
enumeration. The more important exceptions are, that he cannot enadt
new laws or impofe new taxes without the confent of both houfes of
parliament.

This grand national council claims the next confideration. Origi-
nally both the nobles and the commons met in one houfe, and it is not
impodible that the mere inconvenience of not finding halls large enough
for our then ambulatory parliaments might have occafioned the divifion
into two houfes, unknown in any other country, and which in fatt may
be regarded as the fole foundation of Englifh liberty. The houfe of
peers may be faid to have exifted from the earlieft period of our hiftory,
but concerning the origin of the commons there is a difpute between the
Tory and the Whig writers. The prcfent conftitution of the parhamcnt
of England may however be traced with certainty to near the middle of
the tliirteenth century ; but it remains unknown at what precifc time
happened the important feparation of the commons from the peers.
The peers are hereditary fenators in their fevrral degrees of duke, mar-
quis, earl, vifcoimt, and baron. The duke ife fo ftylcd from the Latin
</«.v, a leader or general ; the title of marquis fprings from the Gothic
language, and implies the cotlimander of a march or frontier : the earl
and baron are alfo from the Gothic, and merely imply eminent men j
the vifcount is Latin, and fignifies the lieutenant of the count or earl.
The various orders of nobility have been preferved more pure in Eng-
land than in any oiuer country ; owing partly to the laws of primoge-
niture, partly to their fenatorial officp, partly to the inftitution of the
college of heralds. In Germany and fomo other countries the nobihty
has fallen into comparative degradation, from the extenfion of the title
to all the fons, and from the prefumption of adventurers. The privi-
leges of the peers are moderate and uninvidious, there being no exemp-
tion from taxes, &c. as in fome countries.

The houf" of commons confills of knights, citizens, ahd burgcni's,
chofen by counties, cities, and boroughs, in confeqtience of royal writs
, direfted to the (hcriif. The members have certain privileges, as exemp-
tion from arrefl in civil caufes, on their journey to parliament, durinjr
their attendance and on their return ; nor can tney be queftioned out of
the houfe for any fentiment there uttered. The commons form the
grand inqueft of the realm, and may impeach or accufc the greatcil
peers ; but their chief privilege, and upon which their whole power
depends, is the levying of money, in which they are deferv^ly fo Jea-
lous, that they will not permit the fmallell alteration in a money bill.
Since the union with Ireland the houfe of commons confifts of fix
hundred and fifty-eight members ; but by ficknefs, important offices, and
indifpcnfable avocations, there rarely appear above two thirds of the
number. A fpeaker or prcfident is cholen at the meeting of every new
parliament, but is ufually continued from one to another as the office
requires a complete and ready knowledge of the forms, and confiderable
abilities.

AAs of parliament are firft prefented in the form of /liV//, and, after
hiving gone through various and cxaft forms generally obfcrved with|
grciit minutcnvfi, bvvome law on receiving the fw^on ot the crown.

? 'The

ENGLAND.

*rhe attention of the nation is chiefly bent upon the parliament, when
crand political queftions arife concerning war and peace, or afFefting the
conftitutional liberties of the land. On fuch occafions the utmott powers
of eloquence are exerted ; and fpecimens produced worthy of Greece or
Rome. Such trials of elocution may either arife in the Itages of a bill
as before defcribed, or by the fpecial motion of a member for fome parti-
cular objeft, or addrefs to the throne.

Adjournments may frequently happen in one fefljon, and the bufinefs
is continued and refumed ; but a prorogation terminates the feflion, and
the bills not then pafl'ed mull recommence their whole progrefs. By a
modern ftatute the death of the king does not, as formerly, terminate
the parliament ; which, on the contrary, had it been prcvioudy diflblved,
may, on that event, refume its funftions.

Such are the three grand component parts of the Englifli conftitution ;
but perhaps its mofl beneficial and popular effeAs ariie from the mode
of adminiilering jufticc, and other ramifications. For the fake of con-
nexion, however, it is proper firft to conlidcr thij privy council and
the other divifions of the government.

The privy council formerly polFeflcd great power, but at prefent
is chiefly employed in deliberations on aff"airs of fudden emergence, on
peace and war, and fpecial provinces of the royal prerogative. The
members are chofen by the Iting, and on changes of adminiftration are
fc'ldom erafed, though thofe in oppofition never attend. They are flyled
right honourable, and are fworn to obferve fecrccy : the Ipwcll at the
board pronounces his opi^iion firll, and the king, if prefent, concludes
with declaring his judgment.

Even at an early period, when the monarch maintained in his own

hands a great Ihare of the adminiflration of juilicc, and of the aftual
exercife of authority, there were intervals of abfence or recreation in

The

which he delegated the chief management of bufinefs to fome felcft
pcrfon ufually an ecclefialtic, whole cultivated talents qualified him
for fuch an important truft. To lend more weight to this fubltitute,
he was .commonly appointed chancellor or chief adminillrator of civil
juilice, was prefident of the houfe of peers, and fupported the royal
influence in that great afl'embly. But in later times when the manage-
ment of the houfe of commons became the chief object of the crown,
the chancellor of the court of Exchequer, as fuperintendantof the public
revenue, is the officer generally conlidcred as prime miniller. The dillri-
bution of fifty millions a year, joined with the royal fupport, has recently
carried his power to the highell elevation. Next to him in authority arc
the fccretaries of ftate, who are followed by the chancellor, tlie treasurer
of the navy, tlu prefident of the council, the paymafter of the forces,
the commiffioneth of the treafury, v.m\ other perfons of high truft.

.IrniCATiTRE AND LAWS.] The judicature of England is worthy of the
highelt applaufe with regard to precifion and purity ; and bribes, fo fre-
quent in other countries, being totally unknown, the faving of this expcnce
mull be candidly poifed againil other legal difburfements. The trial by
jury is another glorious feature of Englifli jurifprudence, handed down from
the Saxon times, and is juftly rcfperted as the very fafeguard of the livos,
liberties, and properties of the nation. It would be idle and extraneous
here to attempt even a brief fltetch of the laws of England. The mtifl
fingular ufuagcs arc what is termed Borough Engltjh^ by which the
youngeft fon, or, in defeft of iflvic, the youngcft brother was to enjoy
the heritage, as it was to be prcfumed that his elder brethren had learned
ft^eir father's bulincfs, and tliat of gavel ki|id, fcarcely known except in

KcnU

M|SMte^ <^>f BiiiMr'y«-- ■

ENGLAND.

Kent. In no country arc wills fo much venerated by law ; that of Mr.
Thelluflbii furnifhes a recent exaniple.

The foreft laws relate chiefly to offences committed in or near the pre-
cis fts of the royal forcila, and were formerly regarded as a confiderable
portion of the national code. But a more vigorous branch of EngliOiju-
dicaturc muft not be forgotten ; martial law, or the Lex Cqflrenfis Anglic
cana-, may be clearly traced to the reign of Henry V. who iflued a code
of military ftatutes publiflied by Upton and Grofe. The ftatutes chiefly
relate to facrilege, prifoners, robbery of merchants, &c. &c. and refer
folely to the a6iual exercife of war ; thi* pain of death rardy occurs ex-
cept in the cafe of any perfon who cries havoc^ an exprefllon feemingly
equivalent to " no quarter," Martial law may be proelainned by the
king, regent, or lieutenant-general of tlie kingdom ; and even in time of
peace, though the prerogative be rarely employed except during war.
It is in faft a diftatorial power never exerted except on great emergencies.
The trials are fummary and fevere as the neceflity of the cafe authorifes.

Among the courts of law the next in dignity to the Houfe of Lords
i:. the Court of Iving's Bench, fo called becaufe the fovereign was un-
derltood to judge in perfon ; and its jurifdittion of courfe extends to the
whole kingdom, the preliding judge being denominated Lord Chief
Juihce of England. The Court of Chancery judges caufes in equity to
moderate the rigour of the law, and defend the helplefs from oppremon,
and efpccially to extend relief in three cafes, accident, fraud, and breach
of trult. The Court of Common Pleas determines, as the name imports,
the common fuits between fubjeA and fubjeit, and tries all civil caufes,
real, perfpnal, or mingled, according to the precife precepts of the law.
The Court of Exchequer, fo termed from the ancient mode of account-
ing upon a chequered board, decides all caufes relating to the royal trea-
fury or r^y.-nue. There is alfo a court for the duchy of Lancaiier, having
cogni/ar.ce of the revenues of that duchy aimexed to the crown by
Henry IV.

The judi^es pcrfoi'm their circuits in the fpring and autumn, and in
tlte mean while more n-'nute cafos are determined by the juilices of the
peace, who may be traced to the fourth year of Edward HL Every
three montlis the juftices of the county meet at what is called the quarter
feffions, and the grand inqueft or jury of the county is here fummoned,
which inquire^ concerning crimes, and orders the guilty to jail till the
next circuit or aflizcs. The ofiice of the (heriff is to execute the royal
mandates, to impannel juries, to bring perfons for trial, and to fee tho
fentcncc's executed ; to coUeft fines and remit them to tlie tixchequcr,
and to preferve the tranquillity of the fliire.

I'here was formerly a bailif. in every hundred, but the office is now
rarr. Thj conftables perfonally aflilt in the prefervation of the peace,
and cxcv ute the warrants of the juilices. The coroner inquires by a jury
of neighbours into cafes of violent death. The clerk of the market
fuperintends the weights and meafiires { and it were to be wiflied for
tlie benefit of the poor that the office were multiplied and ItriAly en-
forced.

Such are the chief magiflrates and ofHues in the country. Cities and
towns are generally ruled by a mayor and aldermen, or by fimilar magi-
Ifrales under different appellations* wiiofe juridical power little exceeds
that of juilices of the peace.

To enumerate the various punifliments inflifted by the laws of Eng-
land would be an unneceffary talk. It has been julUy obferved that they
are too fanguinary, ar<d that tUcir frei^ucncy dimiiiilUca tlu; intended pur^

pofc

ENGLAND.

pofe of imprefling terror. If ^eatb were only infli£ked in cafes of mur-
der, the relaxation would be found beneficial to the community. As
man is an animal reared with confiderable difficulty, and may generally
be rendered ufeful, it would certainly be preferable to fend criminals for
life to the new and diftant fettlenients in Auftralafia, than by the wafte of
blood to leffen ttrengrth and population.

Population.] The population of England and Wales by the late
enumeration amounts to nine millions three hundred and forty-three
thoufand five hundred and feventy-eight. That of Ireland is generally
computed at three millions, while that of Scotland has been lately found
to equal one million fix hundred and feven thoufand feven hundred and
fixty. The various colonies in America, &c. will not perhaps be found
to amount to one million ; but the American ftates boaft a Britifh pro^
geny of fix millions, and the Englifh language is probably diffufed to the
extent of twenty millions of people.

Army.] TJie army during the late war was fuppofed to exceed
170,000, with 30,000 fencibles, and 78,000 militia, the volunteers being
fuppofed to be 60,000.

Navy.] But the great rampart and fupreme glory of Great Britain
confiil in her navy, in fize, ftrength, and number of (hips, far exceeding
any example on record, as may be judged from the following catalogue.

NAVY LIST, May iSio.

Statement of the dijlribut'ton of the Brit'tfh Naval Force, excluftve of the
hired armed Vejfels, tvhich are chiejiy employed in protei^itig the Coajlivg
Trade of Great Britain.

■■-— -^

-t>

tn 1

— — — .

(/I

j; '. _ 1

> •^

Stations.

.tJ)

2 1
U

*-<

I-;

Downs - . -

.^■^

North Sea and Baltic

(

Englilh Channel und Coaft of Fruicc

Irilh Station - - -

1 <

Jerley, Guernfey, &c.

*
/

(4
.1

Spain, Portugal, and Gibialtar

,5«

Mediterranean, and on Pafliige -

2,7

Coart of Africa

Halifax, Newfoundland, &c.

1 1

3«

\\r at J . S l-eeward lilands
^•^^'"''"^'^amaica.anaonPafrage

3
3

14
14

c
c

»3

67
46

South America

Cape of Good Hope, and Southward

Enit Indies, and on Palfage
Total at Sea

4
91

2
14

2C
124

5
1-9

3»

»3V

s;6

In Poit and (iiting

3«

.S6

'93

Guard Ships - . .

."i

Hofptal Ships, Prifou Ships, &c.
Total ill Commitnon

5
i6v

2
151

' 12

'9A

3»

. 97

«33

Ordinary and lepaiiini; fur Service

>i6

Uuildini; • . .
Total -

1 • P II

41
156

c
_ 39

189

- ■' -■;

219

»«3

lit '3

For

■^

ENGLAND.

For this immenfe fleet the number of feamen amounts from one hun-
dred to one hundred and twenty thoufand, a number which no other
country ancient or modern could have fupplied.

The naval power of Great Britain conflitutes fo ftrikin? and im-
portant a feature in the national portrait, that it merits particukr illuftra-
tion. Even in the Saxon times we find confiderable fleets mentioned
of the fmall vefiels then in ufe. One of the Northumbrian monarchy
afTemblod a numerous fleet near Jarro, the monaftery of Beda, in an exten-
five haven of the time, now become a fait marfh. About the year 882
wc Hnd that Alfred directed a powerful fleet againft the Danifli in-
vadcTS. The fleet of Edgar is alfo celebrated, but the armament of
Ethelrcd tJic fecoiid in the year 1009 exceeded any which England ever
before had beheld, probably amounting to five hundred of the fmall
(hips then known. But the devaftations of the Danes and Normans
Oixafionod fuch a decline in the naval power of England, that Richard I.
was obliged to have recourfe to foreign veflels for nis crufade. In the
reign or John we, for the firft time, find commemorated a fig^al
victory of the Engliili and Flemings over the French fleet of Philip
Augiilhis, which was computed at 1700 fliips, or rather boats. The
Englifli monarch in the pride of his triumph was the firil who ordered
the sAhUTii to bi.' paid. by foreign veflels to the national flag. The fleet
of England thenceforth continued to be always refpeftable, and gene-
nilly vicloi-ious ; but the preponderance of the Engliflt armaments over
tlioie of France only became pennanent and decifive a little more than a
rentury ago, after the battle of La Hogue. Spain had yielded the con-
teft fiiice tha deftruftion of her great Armada, and Holland had been
greatly reduced in her naval conflicts under Charles the Second ; fo that
no other rival remained, and Great Britain maintains a fixed fuperiority
over the ocean.

The fpfcial fuperintendance of the navy is committed to the Board of
Admiralty, compofed of admirals of known flcill, and of peers whofe im-
partiality gcniTuily regards jnerit alone in tliis important fervice. Tlje
n'cent condiift of maritime war has been crowned with dillinguiflied
fiicoefs ; ancj wiiiHl the admirals mull be allowed to rival any names in
naval liiftory ancient or modern, the fame of Nelfon has been confecrated
by his glorious death.

Rf:vi'A'UK.3 111 ancient times the royal revenue chiefly arofe from the
domains, or l.mds appropt-iated to the crown, from amerciaments civil and
criminal which paifcd lo tlie fife or treafury, and from cuftoms on goods
imported and exported. As in war each foldier was obliged to mamtain
himfelf for a certain time, tl>e expenditure was not much increafcd,
Ifpcm extraordparv emergencies, it appears that a contribution was
raifed by the confent of the national council. In later periods fubfidiei
were granted to the amount of a fifteenth or a tenth of landed income,
und a proportionable rate on moveable goods. As fociety advanced, taxes
began to be impofed on the materials tnemfelves ; and from a fmall plant
an enormous tree lias rifen, with a labyrinth of roots, which in the opmion
of fome politicians undermine the ifland, while others believe that they
only produce a more lirm confolidation,

'Pije exciie forms one of the moft productive branches of the revenue,
amoui.tiii'T to between feven and eight millions. Next ftand the cuftoms,
vvliich proiiuce about half that fum. The ttamps and incidental taxes,
as they art' temu-d, arife to near three millions. The land-tax has re-
ctiitly bicn reiidircd perpetual, and fold to proprietors of eftates and
other individuals. But JnlUad of tlie land>tax, now appear thofe on

ENGLAND.

fuffar, tobacco, and malt, amounting to two millions feven hundred and
fifty thoufand pounds ; the other fupplies arife from the Eall India Com-
pany, lotteries, &c. In addition to thefe the income-tax is fuppofed to
yigld'y,joo,oool. In the year 1799 it was fuppofed that the additional
fums raifed by loans, and other methods, fwelled the national expendi"
ture to near fixty millions fterling.

Of the permanent taxes the greater part is employed in difcharging
the intereft of the national debt, which after the American war amounted
to more than 239 millions, while the intereft exceeded 9,000,000. At
prefent the national debt is about 480,000,000) and the intereft about
19,000,000.

To alleviate this growing burthen, a fmking fund was inftituted in
1786, by which between 20 and 30 millions may be confidered as already
redeemed. The national debt began in the reign of William, and grew
into what are called the funds or ftocks, only fynonymous terms for the
public debt.

The civil lift," from which are defrayed the falaries of officers of ftate.
Judges, ambafladors, &c. together with the expences of the royal family,
amounts to i ,000,000 annually.

Political importance and relations.] With fuch a prodigious
command of national treafure, the political importance and relations of
Great Britain may be faid to be diffufed over the world ; for wherever
monny influences man, there may her power be perceived. The union of
Scotland with England delivered the latter country from the perpetual
check, exercifed by politicians ancient and modern, of exciting an enemy
from behind, and thereby dividing the power of an antagonift. That
with Ireland, if preferved by wife and lenient meafurea* muft alfo impart
additional energy. The moft important political confiderations are thofe
between Great Britain and France. If this countr)' muft not be ftyled
the natural enemy of Great Britain, flie has yet for many centuries been
a conftant and jealous rival, eagerly embracing every opportunity to
leflen Britifti profperity and power. Such being the cafe, it has been
regarded as the politicsu intereft of England to balance and divide the
«nmity of France by a ftrift alliance with fome limitaneoi?3 ftate. None
of the German ftates bordering on France, nor even Switzerland itfelf,
are capable of much exertion. Hence it might feem that found policy
would didate as complete a confolidation of German power as could be
effeAed, in order to give a decided and vigorous check to that of France
from behind. Holland prefents a connection of fuperlative importance
to England, being her grand mart of trade from the continent. The
amity of Ruflia is valuable in a commercial view, as ftie might by no
great ftretch of oriental power detach an army into Hindoftan, and over-
turn our opulent pofTelfions.

The connexion of Portugal has been enforced by mutual advantagr^g
of commercial intercourfe, and by the family compa£l between France
and Spain. The friendfhip or enmity of Denmark^ and Sweden is little
momentous ; but as this latter country has long maintained a ftri6( con-
nection with France, it is moft natural that Britain ihould balance It by
qiltivating that of Denmark.

CliAP.

ENGLAND.

CHAPTER III.
Civil Geography.

Manners and Cujloms — Language — Ltteratttre — the Aris-^Editcai'tnri'-^
Unlverfith's — Cities attd Towns — EJifces— -Roads — Inland NavlgU'
tlon — MaiiufaSures and Commerce.

M wvFR • AKT1 • \ 1 Tpi^E fingularity of manners in England

' *-' X has often excited the furprife of fo-
feigners, and the jlttention of Our own ethic writers, whb have attempted
to deduce the fources from moral and phyfical caufes : ellimating as the
firll, the freedom diffiifed over the country, which permits the indulgence
of individual inclinations i asd recurring for the latter, to the perpetual
variations of the climate.

The conlideration of nationcil manners may be conveniently referred
to three divilions ; firft, diet ; fecondly, houfes and drefs j thirdly,
amufem<mt8.

The Englifh are generally efteemed to exceed in the ufe of animal
food ; but fmce the introduction of potatoes and other efculent vege-
tables, .this pofition may be doubted. Our potations of heavy malt
liquor dcfervcdly ftrike foreigners as a fingularity in Enghfh diet. Even
our lightefl liquors of that fort have not efcaped their remark ; for a
late French traveller has obferved, that the Englifli commonly drink at
their meals a fort of medical ptifan, which they call fmall beer. Our
anceftors prided themfelves in the variety and richnefs of their ales ; nor
even at prefertt do we refufe praife to the various qualities of our Burton,
Dorchefter, Taunton, Windfor, Scottilh, Welfii and other ales. But
the moll peculiar malt beverage is porter, which ought to be folely com*
pofed of brown or high dried malt, hops, liquorice, and fugar ; but it
is fometimes debafed by other ingredients : that of London is particu-
larly famous, and is an article of exportation, being elteemed a luxury
on the banks of the Delaware and the Gangt-s. The prodigious con-
fumption of tea is another peculiar feature, tlie ufe of that plant being
rare in other lOuropean countries. The baneful eftotls of excefs in
fpirituous liquors may be traced in the ruined health and morals of the
people. t. >-

The fimplicity t)f tlie Englifli cookery ftrikes foreigners as much as
that of the dri.'i's, which even among the gi-eat is very plain, except on
the days of court gala.

The houfes in England are peculiarly commodious, neat, and cleanly ;
and domeftic arcliit^'dnre feems here arrivetl at its greatell perfeftion.

The amufements of the theatre and of the iield, and various games of
fkill or chance, are common to moll nations. The baiting of bulls and
bears is, it is believed, nearly difeontinued : cue of the moft peculiar
amufements of the common people is the ringi.ig of long peals, with
many changes, whicli deafen thofe who arc fo unliappy as to live in the
neighbourhood of the church. •

Prior to the middle of tlie pAteenth century, the Englifli and Frencli
were regarded as barbarous nations by the more poliflicu Italians. The
reign and female blandilhments of the court of Elizabeth feem to have
had a wonderful c(L£t in civilizing the manners. The iraulition has b^i-n
well pourtrayed by an ancient writer, whofe liinple language, given in
modera orthography, may perhaps aniufe the reader.

" There

ENGLAND.

J«

« Thei'e are old men yet dwelling in the village where I remain, who
" have noted three things that are marvelloufly altered in England within
*< their found remembrance. One .is the multitude of ohimnies lately
♦« erefted : whereas in their young days there were not above two or
« three, if fo many, in many uplandiOi towns of the realm (the religious
«« houfes, and manor places of their lords, always excepted, and perad-
♦« venture fome great perfonages), but each one made his fire againft a
« rere dojfe in the hall, where he dijied and dreffed his meat. The fe-
« cond 18 the great amendment of lodging ; for, faid they, our fathers,
« and we ourlelves, have laid full oft upon ftraw pallets, covered only
" with a (heet, under coverlets made of dagfiuain or hopharlots ( I ufe
*« their own terms) and a good round log under their heads inilead of a
*« bolfter. If it were fo that our fathers, or the good man of the houfe,
" had a mattrefs or flock bed, and thereto a fack of chaff to rell his
" h'.ad upon, he thought himfelf to be as well lodged as the lord of the
«♦ town, fo well were they contented. Pillows, faid they, were thought
*' meet only for women in childbed. As for fevvants, if they had any
" flieet above them, it was well, for felejom had they any under their
«♦ bodies, to keep them from the pricking llraws that ran through the
" canvas, and razed their hardened hides.

" The third thing they tell us of, is the exchange of woqden platterS
«* into pewter, and wooden fpoons into filver or tin. For fo common
" were all forts of wooden velfels, in old time, that a man fliould hardly
" find four pieces of pewter (of which one was peradventure a falt-feller)
" in a good farmer's houfe ; and yet, for all this frugality, if it may be
** fo juilly called, they were fcarce able to live and pay their rents at
*« their days, without felling of a cow, or a liorfe, or a mare, although
" they paid but four pounds at the uttermoft by the year. Such was
" alfo their poverty, that if a farmer, or huibandman, had been at the
" alehoufe, a thing greatly ufed in thofe days, amongft fix or feven of
" his neighbours, and there, in a bravery, to fliew what (lore he had,
" did call dq^n his purfe, and therein a noble, or fix fliillings in filver,
" unto them, it is very likely that all the reft would not lay down fu
" much againll it ; \. hereas, in my time, although peradventure four
" pounds of old rent be improved to forty or fifty povmds, yet will the
" farmer think his gains very fmall, towards the midil of his term, if he
" have not fix or feven years rent lying by him, therewith to purchafe a
" new leafe ; befides a fair garnifti of pewter on his cupboard, three or
*• four feather beds, as many coverlids, and carpets of tapeftry, a filver
♦' falt-feller, a bowl for wine, if not a whole neil, and a dozen of fpoons
*' to furiiilh up the fuit. This alfo he taketh to be his own clear ; for
" what llock of money foever he gathereth in all his years, it is often
" feen that the huidlord will take fuch order with him for the fame, when
•♦ he reneweth the leafe ( which is commonly eight or ten years before it
•* be expired, fince it is now grown almoit a cullom, that if he come not
" to his lord fo long before, another fiiall ftep in for a revcrfion, and fo
"defeat liim outright), that it Ihall never trouble him more than the
•♦ hair of his beard, when the barber hath waflied and Ihaven it from his
«Vchin*." , ■. :, , > .

Under this divifion of geography have been generally arranged what
are called national charadcrs, but which, in fad, are commonly monu-
ments of prejudice and injuftice, and particularly noxious to the minds of
youth. It thall therefore only be remarked, that the cold rellraint which

• Defcription of Britain, in Holinflitd's Chronicle, vol. i. W. 8;.

ENGLAND.

fome foreigners have afcribed to the £iig1t(h« has been candidly judged,
by a recent traveller, to exill only in appearance. A more genuine at-
tribute of the Englifli is integrityj wnich has carried their credit and
commerce to an extent before unknown in the liHtory of nations*

Language.] Moll European languages are derived fromthe Goiir'
or the Latin. To the Latin origin belong Italian, French, and Spanii:
to the Gothic, the German, Dutch, Flemifli, Danifh, Swedifli,and Nci
wegian. From the fituation of the country, and other caufes, the
Enghfh participates of both thofe grand fources ; and unites, in fome
degree, the force of the Gothic with the melody of the Latin dialers.
The ancient ground, and native exprellion, originate from the Gothic
divifions of the Belgic, Saxon, and Danifli ; but particularly from "the
Belgic, as will appear from comparifon with the Dutch and Frific.
The languages of Latin origin have, however, fupplied a vaft wealth of
words, Ibmetimes neceflary, fometimes only adopted becaufe they are
more fonorous, though not fo emphatic as the original Gothic. There
is no evidence of the exiftcncc of Celtic words in our language, whatever
fome antiquaries have imagined, for the words they indicate may alfo be
found in Iceland, a country never peopled by the Celts.

Numerous manufcripts cxift, written in the Anglo-Saxon or old
EngliHi language, and one of its molt claflic authors is the great Alfred
himfelf. It appears from many works, written long after the Conquelt,
that the Frencli language, though colloquial among the great, fcarcely
imparted any tinge to the national tongue. The conqueils of Edward
III. in France, and other circumftances, effefted, in the fourteenth cen-
tury, a change in vain attempted by the Norman conqueror. Chaucer,
who wrote at that period, prefents almoll the firft rude dawn . of what
may be termed the Englifli language In the fame century, that fabu-
lous traveller Sir John Manderville fupplies one of the bell fpecimens of
Englifh profe.

In the fucceeding century, the fpeech had made fuch rapid advances,
that even as early as the reign of Edward the Fourth, we find it vary
very little from that of the reign of Henry the Eighth. The works of
Fortefcue, in the reign of Edward the Fourth, fctting afide the ortho-
graphy, might even be perufed by the common reader.

In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, a century after, the Engllfh language
liad acquired fuch copioufnefs, dignity, force, and melody, that perhaps
in the eye of very diftant pofterity, moderns may be fuppofcd never to
liave exceeded, what is gained in elegance being generally loft in power.
Sydney's defence of poefy may be regarded as a good fpecimen of
Engliui profe, not to mention Hooker's ecclefiallical polity, and other
large works of that period, which continue to be read and admired.

The common trandation of the bible is a noble fpecimen of the dig-
nified profe of the following reign, beyond which it is unneceffary to
condudl this fketch, as our ubraries abound with the fucceeding publi-
cations.

The conftruftion of the Englifh language is peculiar, and renders the
ftudy of it very difficult to foreigners. Tne German and other Gothic
dialc<^3 prefent declenfions of nouns, and other correfpondencies with
the Latin, while in the Englifh all fuch objedls are accomplifhed by pre-
fixes. Anomalies alfo abound, and are too deeply rooted, ever to be
eradicated by ^mmatical rules. Farther remarks would be foreign to
the plan of this work, which however requires, occafionally, ftiort fpe-
cimens of the various languages of the globe, to enable the reader to judge
•4$bc relative origins ofnaUons : for Uus ptirpofc the Lord's prayer is
14 ' generally

ENGLAND.

fenerally chofen, which (hall be here given in Anglo-Saxon and modern
ingliHi.

uren fader ihlc arth In htofnds, Ste gehalgud thin noma* To cy-
meth thin rye. Ste thin willay fue is itt heofnas and iff eottho. Uren hlaf
oferwijllit fel us to daeg. And forgeve us fcylda urna fue we forgefan
fcytdgum urum. jind no inlead ufig in cuftnutig. Ah gefrig tjich frim
tflt. Amen.

Our father^ which art in heaven, hallowed be thy naftte ; thy king-
dom come, thy will be done on earth as it is in heaven ; give us this day
our daily bread, and forgive us our debts as we forgive our debtors ; and
leiid us not into temptation, but deliver us from evil. Amen.

LiTKRATURE.] Englifh literature is a valt and inviting field ;'but a
few fugitive remarks muft here fuffice. Of the traditionary terfes of thtf
Druids, no rclie probably exifts ; and the Roman conquefl; does not ap>
pear to have inculcated letters with much diffufion, for no author of thofe
periods claims a. Britiih origin. The country was feized by the Saxons^
before Brithh Hteraturc faintly dawned in Qddas, A. D. 560. Irifti li-
terature commenced about the fame period, and continued for fome cen-
turies to fupply numerous writers in the Latin language, while England
remained almoft dellitutc. But Bcda in the eighth century redeemed
this defect, in himfelf a hoft, aiid, like Chaucer, the wonder of his time-
The Danifh invafions were ruinous to literature, both in Great Britain
and Ireland, and the great Alfred was obliged to exert his utmoft en-
deavours in order to reftore fome degree of learning even among the
clergy. That admirable prince himfelf tranflated fome works of merit
and utility, as the hiRorics of Orofius and Beda into the Anglo-Saxon^
Of the interval between tlie age of Bcda and the year 1100, the Saxon
fhronicle is a noble but negle<^ted monunicnt, being the only civil hiftory
of England, for a fpacc of 400 years. About the year iloo, Enghfti
Jiterature commenced a firm and Heady pace ; a numerous train of hifto-
rians, poets, and other writers, fills the pages of biography. In the four-
teenth century, Roger Bacon afpires even to the praife of eminent ge-
nius. In the foUowmg century, the civil wars between the houfes of
York and Lancalter were doftruAive of literature and the afts ; nor will
it be eafy to name an illuftrious avithor of that period, though the intro-
du^ion of printing in the reign of Edward the Fourth forms a memo-
rable epoch. The writers of the fixtecnth and following centuries are
numerous and well known.

The grand feature of EhgliHi literature is original genius, tranf-
mitted even from Roger Bacon to our Shakefpeares, Miltons, Newtons,
and Lockes, not to dwell here on claims more minute, but equally firm.
In fcientific departments, England mull yield to France, except in the
various branches of mathematical knowledge ; the inll'.ution of the royal
fuciety, and the genius of Newton, having attracted the greateft talents
within their fphere, to the negle^ of other branched of curious^ invcfti-
g^tion. The Englifli clergy, who far exceed in learning any other budy
of that defcriptiou in Europe, have always cultivated -Ciaflical iiteraturo
with diftinguiihed zeal and prediledion.

Arts.]] The prefent ftate of the artstn England is worthy of fe opu-
lent and reiined a country, and the progrefs has been rapid beyond ox-
ample. Some faint traces of painting occur in the thirteenth century 9
but the names and country of the artifts do not appeat, except that of
William of Florence, M'hcre the art had faintly begun to revive. In
the reign of Edward I. the magnificent cailles built m Wales atteil the
geuiui and Ikill of the architcdtsj while tlieir indif idual fame is loft in ob«

V , . D fcurity »

ENGLAND

fcurity : and towards the end of the fourteenth century, rich monumMti
of architedure and fculpture are interfperfed with fome few remains of
painting. But England continued, till the laft century, to import her
chief painters from abroad ; as Holbein, Antonio More, Zucchero,
Janfen, Mytens, Rubens, Vandyke, Lcly, Kneller, Sec. &c. Yet in
miniature and engraving, there were excellent native artifta in the feven-
teenth century, and an eminent native architect, Inigo Jones. In tht:
beginning of the eighteenth century, even the noble architcfture of St.
Paul's did not redeem the other arts from great decline, till Hogarth
inftituted examples of ethic antl charadoriftic painting, which have de-
fervcdly excited the admiration of Europe. The prefent reign has not
only been diftinguifhed by patronage of the arts, but been fortunate iu
exuberance of artifts of deferved reputation. In painting, engraving,
architeAure, and fculpture, we now alfo boalt of many diftinguilhcd
native names ; but in mufi ; we ftill revere the fuperior ikill of the Ger-
mans and Italians.

Education'. 3 In a view of any country, education forms one of the
moft important topics, as its coafequences extend to the effence and well-
being of the community. The education of the lower claflea in England
had become extremely negledled, before the benevolent inllitution of the
Sunday fchools. There can be no doubt that where the common people
are the beft inilrudled, there they will be found the moil quiet, contented,
and virtuous ; as they feel a confcious felf-refpedl, are accuilomcd to be
treated with regard by each other, and will chearfully extend the faro*
reverential condu£l towards their fuperiors in the favours of fortune ; and
a pra6lical eftimatc of the advantages of general education, muy be
formed by comparing the neglefted pejfaiitry of Ireland, with the peace,
able Highlanders of Scotland, whore public fchools exUl in every parilh.
The middle and higlier ranks of Engliih fparc no expence in the educn.
tion of their fons, by private tutors at home, or at what are called day
fchools and boarding fchools. Our mott eminent public fchools art
thofe of St. Paul's, Wertmiiiller, Eton, and VVinchclUT ; and from
them have arifen fome of the nio(l diAinguidied ornaments of their
country. The fcholars in due time proceed to the univerfities of Oxford
and Cambridge ; foundations of an extent and grandeur that impivGi vi*.
neration. Tlie number and lera uf the colleges will appear from the iul*
lowing liil : . *

Univerfity of Oxford.
Baliol College — Founder, John Baliol (father of John, king of

Scotland), and his wife, Dcrvorgilla, countefs of Galloway.
Merton College, firll eivAed at Maiden, near Kingllon, in

Surrey, A. D. 1260, ami ten years after removed to Oxfird.

The founder was Williatn de Merton, Lord Chanceliur tw

Henry III. — Walter Merion, bifhop of RocUeller.
Univerfity Collegt- — William, archdeacon of Durham*.
I3I6. Exettr College — Walter Stapleton, bi(hop of Exeter. *

l^fj* Oriel College»~Adam de Bronu", almoner to £d>^rd II.

Queen's College — Robert Eglesficld, chaplain to queen Philippa,
New College — William of Wickham, bifnop of VVincheiUr.
Lincoln College — Richard Fleming, archbi(hop of York.
AlKSouIi — Archbifhop Chicheley, archbidiop of Canterbury.
Magdalen College — William of Wainflet, bifhop of WinclHrller.
Braiea Nofc— 'William Smith, billiop of LiACwln.

1270.

1292.

«340

«379'
1420.

«437'
1458,

• Ceti|b'i Canid. I f, y.k

1516.

■-»( -^ijjt'

ENGLAND.

1516.
151 8.

1437-

1571.
1613.
2624.

Corpus Chrifti^-Richard Fox, bifliop of Winchsfter.

Chnft Church— Wolfey and Henry VIII.

Trinity College — Thomas HatHeld, biihop of i^urhain, and

completed by Sir Thomas Pope.
St. Jomi's— -by archbilhop Chickeley, re-endowed by Sir Thomas

White, 1557.
Jefus College— Dr. Price.
Wadham--Nichola8 Wadham, Efq.
Pembroke— Thomas Tefdale, Efq.*

There are befides feveral halls or fmaller colleges, and fome reeent
foundations. The laudable favour of the Oxonians adores Alfred as th«
founder of what is called the Univerfity College, and even alfigns the
date of 886 ; biit candid antiquaries affert, that the paflase in one or
two old chronicles alleged in lupport of this idea, is a manifeft interpo-
lation, not to b« found in the beft manufcripts : and though great fchools
of divinity may have previoufly exifted at Oxford, fuch were alfo knowa
at other places which lay no claim to the title of univerflty.

1257.
•344

»343
1348;

»35»

Univerflty of Cambridge.
Peter-houfe — Hugh Balfham, biihop of Ely.
Clare-hall — Elizabeth de Burg, couutefs of Ulfler.
ii'embroke-hall— 'Mary de Valentia, countefs of Pembroke,
and 1557. Gonville and Caius — The Doctors fo named.
Trinity-hall — William Bateman, biOiop of Norwich.
1356. Benc't or Corpus ChrilU — Hei^ry Duke of Lancafter.
1443. King's College — Henry VI.

1448. Queen's College — Margaret of Anjou. ,

1475. Catharine-hall — Dr. Woodlark.
1496. Jefus College — .Tuhn Alcock, bifhop of Ely.
1506. Chrid's College 1 Margaret, Countefs of Richmopd, mothei of
1 511. St. John's J Flenry VII.

Magdalen College— Thomas, Lord Audley.
Trinity College— Henry VIII.
Emanuel — Sir Walter Mildmay.
596. Sydney College^— Frances Sydney, countefs of Sufiex.
809. Downuig Cohere— now erc<^ing, in purfuance of the will and
bequell of Su- George Downing, uart.

1542
1546
1584

Of the two univcrfities, many minute defcriptions have appeared. Ox-
ford is the more majeilic ; from the grandeur of the colleges and other
public buildings, and the fuperior regularity and neatnefs of the llreets :
but the chapel of King's College, at Cambridge, is fuppofed io excel any
finale edifice of the other univerflty. Both of thofe mag'Mficent femi-
naries imprefs every feeling mind with reverential awe ; not only by their
architectural dignity, but by <\ thoufand collateral ideas of ancient great-
iiefs and fcience.

Cities and Towns.] In giving a brief account of the chief cities
and towns in England, a few of the mod important (hall be arranged
according to dignitv, opulence, and population : and the others (hallbe
ftated without preference, in a kind ot progrefs from the fouth>weft to
theogrtb.

' * Cou|h*s Camd. i. p. 30S. Iic

Losnoovi

3<5

ENGLAND.

London, the metropolis cf England, is fituatcd in an cxtcnfivc plain
or valley, watered by the Thames, and only confined on the north by a
few fmall elevations ; being a place of great antiquity, and firft men-
tioned by Tacitus. It now includes Southwark, a borough on the
other fide of the Thames, and Weftminfter, another city on the well ;•
fo that, like fonie places of ancient geography, it might be named Tri-
polisy or three cities. The noble river Thames is here about ^sfo yards
in breadth, crowned with three bridges, crowded with a foreft of mails,
and conveying into London the Ivealth of the gh)be, forming an excel-
lent port, witliont the danger of expofure to maritime enmity. It is,
however, a great defedt, that inllcad of open quays and ftrects on the
banks of the ftrcam, the view is obilrudled on both fides by irregular
mafTes of building, which do not even admit of a path. London prc-
fents almoft every variety w]\ich diverlifies human exiftence. Upon the
call it is a fea-port, rej)lete with mariners and with the trades conncfted
with that profefRon. In the centre, it is tho feat of numerous manufac-
tures and prodigious commerce ; while the weJtern or faOiionablc extre-
mity preiVnts roval and noble {plendour, amidlt fcencs of the highcH
luxury and mofl ruinous didipation.

r'ew cities can boafl a more falubrious filuation, the fubjaccnt foil
^eing pure gravel ; by which advantage, united with cxtenfive fewer*,
the houfis are generally dry, cleanly, and healthy. Provifions and fuel
are poured into the capital, even from diflant parts of the kingdom ; the
latter article being coals, from the counties of Northumberland and
Durham, transferred by fea, and thence denominated fea-coal*. Lon-
don requires in one year 101,075 beeves, 707,456 Iheep, witii calves and
pigs in proportion : the vegetables and fruits annually confumcd are
valued at a million lltTlingf.

The population <»f London has by fome been exaggerated twa million
of fouls ; but by the late enum-'ration it contains about 860,000. Its
length from Hyde-jiark Corner on the well to Poplar on the eaft, is
about fix miles ; the breadth imequal, from three miles to one and lefs ;
thtf circumference may be afjout iixteen miles. The houfes arc almoft
univerfally of brfck, and difpofed with inlipid limilarity ; but, in rf-
compence, moll of the ftreets are excellently paved, and have conve-
nient j)atli3 for foot pallengt r.i ; a mark of refpea to the common people
almoil unknown to the capitals on thi- Continent. Another national
feature is the abundance of charitable foundations for almoft every infir-
mity and dillrefs incident to human nature. Tlie multitude and rich
difplay of the Ihops inprefs llrangers with alloiiiniment ; nor are they
lefs furprifed at the cunflant t(»rrent of popufation rolling through the
principal flreets, nor at the fwarm of carriages at all times crowdnig all
the roads to the capital, and the norturnal illnminationi which extend
even to four or five miles of the environs. 'J'hough the iniprellion of tiie
tid« be feh ..» far an Staines, the 'i'hame.s at London, and a confiderable
way below, is untninted with fait. It water.s are raifed by machinery,
and conduced in innuintrable pipes for domellic ides ; while the party
wore remot' an* Inpplied w ith water from finne fmall pond"* near Hamp-
flead, and fr»m that laudable work »f Middl -ton, the New River,
which conveys a copiotis additiou from the north.

• Mr. MiJdlctoi'. in his X'ie^v of Middlrfr-x, iSr 7, lupivlcd fhlf "OO.OOC chlMfoni
■r^ vemiv cr)iifum<"'t in fli ir rdunijr. Sf«««rton C'o.il, |>. 171, liyv 8X6,167.

t Iliht. 6.1 \. Mr. IVnn.int, Urit. /ool, 4. j>. bys, to,OCO lobftcri we Jonua'.ly broiifht
Cf Loudon tVoin iitiir Momioic,

province.

The njime
which den
I'mporary
venf rable «
»i cdcbra

ENGLAND.

•XI

lonal
ntlr-
rich
lliiy
\ the

inul

of thf

erabte

iiinrry,

party

iamp-

liver»

nldron*
brourhi

The environs wf London prefcnt a fijeftacle almoft as grand and inte-
reding as that of the metropolis itfelf. Exteniive llreets of villas and
houfes are continued in almoU every direftion within feven or eight
miles. Yet few of the public edifices in London can pretend to much
magnificence. The catliedral of St. Paul's forms one of the chief ex-
septions ; the exterior archit^fture of this principal cathe' al of the Pro-
teftant faith being majeilic to a degree of fublimity, but the interior is
deffftive in decoration.

Weftmin<ter-abbey may claim the next rank to St. Paul's cathedral ;
being not only in itfelf a grand impreflive edifice of the Gothic clafs,
but as being the fanctuary (*f the iluillriuus dead of all ranks, periods,
and profeflions, from the vKOiorious monarch down to the humble peda-
gogue. It was founded by Sebert, king of the Eaft Saxons; was af»
terwards ruined by the Dai^-,, and rc-fouiidvd by Edward the Con-
feflbr, wliofe tomb is thf molt ancient now remaining. The prefent
edifice Wi s the work of Henry IIL ; and Henry VH. added an elegant
chapel, and his tomb, the work of Torrigiano : in the vaidts under
this chapel, the late monarchs and their ofl'spring have been depofited.
Adjacent are the two houfes of pariiament, and Wcftminiler-hall ; a
vaft room, 250 feet long and 70 wide, with a cu:iv>'js cieling of Irifh
oak, and apartmcuta on the fide, in which are hold tlic principal courts
of ju (lice.

The churches and chapels exceed 200 In number, and a few are of
beautiful architefture. Some are the produclious of Initro Jones ; as is
alfo the noble banqueting-houfe at Whitehall, with a malLrly cieling
painted by Rubens, reprefenting the apotheolis of .lamc^ I. The new
theatre of Covent-garden may be added as doing honoiu: to the taile of
the archite^ and managers.

Near London bridge, a pillar of 193 feet elevates his bold front abova
nx)rt of the fpires, and is called the Monument, being dellined to com-
memorate the conflagration of London in the reign of Cliarles IL The
Tower is only venerable from ancient fame, and remarkable for the cu-
jiofities which it contains. The royal palace of St. James's is an irre-
gular building, of very modcft afpe£\. The Queen's palace, formerly
Biickingham-lioufe, only afpires to elegant convenience, bu; n ntains
fome valuable paintings, and an excellent library formed fulely i>" the
talle of the reigning monarch. The palace of Kenfingtor pr-' ;<.s «i<
exuberance of vaKiahle pid^ures, little known, and rari-l/ vilitt '. llw
houfes in the weft -end of tiie town of llienifelves Ihew tl«»* gen<.- grada-
tions of rank in England; thofe of the <hiif nobility bi u" u flj- dif-
tinguifhablt ffi^ni the others: the more remarkable art 1 >lev-houfe f
Cliefterfield-houfe ; Lord Spencer's, in tlic Green.p;u-k , Mirqi'^^ o'"
L;uifdownc'«, Derkeley-fquare ; Duke of Northuniberl.i'v" , ai Cha-
ring-crufs ; Burlington-Iioufr, with a fine coloimade behiiu' me front
wall ; and thofe of thf Duke of Devoiifliire and the Earl o*" Bath, all
m Piccadilly ; nor mull Cumbi rlaiid-houfe and Carleton-hou'^ , in PalU
inall, be forgotten,

York. Next to the i:apitul in dignity, though not in exiont nor
opulence, i# York; which' is not only the chief of a large and fertih
province, but may be regardid as the metropoliRof the Noithot England.
The niune has been gradually corrupted from the ancient Eboracum ; by
which denomiufttion it was remarkiutle, even in the Hontan times, for the
temporary refidence and deatliofthc Roman Emperor Sevcrus. Thii
vcnrrable city is divided by the river Oufc ; »iid ti>e (»othic cathedral U
/of celebrated beauty, the wtllern front bemg pctuliurly rich, th(,' chief

P I lOWCf

3«

ENGLAND.

tower very lofty, and the windows of the fmcft painted glafs. York
ditidcs with Edinburgh the winter vifits of the northern gentry. Its
inhabitants, acco;rding to the late enumeration, amount to 16,145.

Liverpool. But Liverpool, in Lancafhire, is now much nearer to
London in wealth and population : being the feat of a vaft commerce,
which has been continually on the increafe fince the beginning of the lad
century, when it was merely a village. In 1699, Liverpool was admitted
to the honour of being conftituted a parifli. In 17 10, the firft dock was
conftruftcd ; and the chief merchants came originally from Ireland, a
circumflance which has given a (Mftiiift tinga to the manners of the town.
Thenceforth the progrofs was rapid, and in 1 760 the population was
computed at 25,787 fouls*. In 1773, they amounted to 34,407 ; in
1787, to 51*5,670 ; and by the enumeration m 1801, they were found to
havt* increafed to 77,65?.

The number of (hips which paid duty at Liverpool in 1757, wag
1 37 1 ; in 1794, they amounted to 4265. In the African trade, once a
diftinguifliing <..\'ture of Liverpool, there was only one (hip employed in
1709 ; in 1792, they amounted to 132. In the recent aft for the con-
tribution of feamen *m xhc royal navy, according to the (hips regiftered
in each, the eflimatc is as follows ;

London, 5725 Hull, 731 Briftol, 666

Liverpool, 171 1 Whitehaven, 700 Whitby, 573

Newcaftle, 1240 Sunderland, 669 Yarmouth, 506

Bristol is ftill a large and flourifhing city, though much of its com-
merce with the Weft Indies and America have pafled to Liverpool.
This metropolis of the weft of England gradually rofe to eminence in the
Anglo-Saxon period ; and was fo flourifhing and opulent in the reign of
Henry II. that, befidcs other charters, he granted the polFeflion of
Dublin, in Ireland; and a colony from Briftol was accordingly tranfplant-
edf. The trade with Ireland has continued chiefly to ctntfr in tliif
city : even in that reign, as ancient writers inform us, the port of liriilol
was replete with vcfTels from Ireland, Norwayv and other parts of Europp.
Briftol is plcafantly fituated at the confluence of the Froonie with tlie
Avon. The hot-wells in the neiglibotn-hood appear to have been known
in 1480 : but the water was chicHy iifcd externally till abojit the year
1670 ; when a baker dreaming tliat his diabetes was reheved by drinking
the water, he tried the expertmcnt and recovered I . Since that p<'riod
its reputation has iiicrcaftd, and many conjmodious and tlegant erriitions
have contributed to recommend thefe wells to invalids. In the adjacent
rocks arc found beautiful cryflafs, which before the introdui'lion of
artificial gens, were j^reatly in failiion for female ornaments. The trade
of Briftol is chi»;ily with Ireland, the Weft Indies, or North Americii,
Hamburgh, and tlie Bahie. ; that with Guinea, not the niort laudable,
had been refigned to Liverpool. By tlie navigation of the two ri\'ers
Severn and Wye, Bn'ilol alfo enj^roffes much ot the trade of Wale<;. In
1787, Briftol employed about i^ioo coafting veffels, and 416 (hips en-
gaged in foreign commerce [|. Inhabitants in i8oi, 68,645.

B;\TH. The proximity may herir authorife the mention <»f Bath,
efteemed the moll elegant town in England. The hot. baths, from
which it derives its name, were known in the Roman times ; nor was their
celebrity loft, even in the dark period of Anglo-Saxon hiftory. But the

• AikiiiS Man. J3J. ct feq.
I Barrctt'i Briftol, 190*

f Barrel's Briftol, 49. 57,

town

ENGLAND.

town has been greatly enlarged and decorated in the laft century. The
^vater8 are ufed both internally and externally, chiefly in gout, bilious,
and paralytic cafes ; being frequented at two times in the year, what is
called the fpring feafon from April to June, and the autumnal from
September to December. Two thirds of the company are attracted
merely by amufement, fociety, and diflipation ; in all which it is only
fecond to London. Situated in a vale, Bath is very hot in fummer.
The houfes are conftrufted of white limellone, which abounds in the vici-
nity. Its inhabitants in 1801, amounted to 32,200.

But next to Briftol, in point of opulence, mulk be claffed the towns of
Mancliellcr, Birmingham, and Sht'lfield.

Mancheiler, in JLancafhire, was known in the Roman times under the
ii-nne of Mancuiiiimi, ? fmall Roman ttation ; but it continued in obfcurity
till the tiiv.e of Elizabeth *, when Camde:. mentions its manufafture of
w()ollen-cloths» then called cottons. During the civil wars under Charles
I., Maiichclter remained in the hands of the parliament. In 1708, the
inhabitant*! were only computed at 8000. In 1757, they fell fliort of
20,000 ; at prefent, they amount 10,84,020. The cotton manufaftures
(if Manchefler are fufHciently known over Europe ; and the machinery,
greatly indebted to the genius of an Arkwright, excites ailonifhment at
ti e progrefs of human art and induftry f ,

Birmingham, in Warwickfhire, was originally a village, belonging to
a family of the fame name, whofe monuments remain in the old church.
Leland mentions it as a town inhabited by fmiths and cutlers, in the
time of Henry VIII. ; and by lorimers, now called bit makers. The
extenfjoH and improvement of Birmingham originated in a great degree
from Mr. John Taylor, who introduced the manufacture of gilt buttons,
and japanned and enamelled works ; but the toy manufadlure was known
ill the reign of Charles II. The great fsbrick called Soho, belonging
to MelFrs. Boulton and Watt, is fituated about two miles from Birming-
ham, but in Staffordfhire. Between the year 1741 and 1 790, Birming-
ham had received an augmentation of feventy-two llreets, 4172 houfes,
and 23,^20 inhabitants \ : the population iu 1791, amounted to 73,670.

iihefiield, in the moll foutheni part of Yorkihire, is ftylcd by L.*-land
the chief market-town in Hallamlhire (for in th? north 'nany particular
fliftridts ufurp the name of (hires. ) The compar;y uf cutlers of Hallam-
Oiire was eilablilhed by ai't of parliament in 1625 ; biu Sheffield bad
been diflinguilhed for a kind of kniws i-alled whitties, and other articleH
nt cutlery as early as ::> thirteenth rentury ; yet l\\\ within the laft
hiilf century, the manuladtures of Sheffield were conveyed weekly to the
metropolis, on pack horfes. In 1751, the river Don was rendered
navigable to within two miles of the town ; which facilitated the export.
i'h.' plated goods cot^imenced about 1758. In the year 1615, tlie popu-
lat on only amounted to 2152 ; in 1755, to 12,983 ; in I78<;, about
^o,ooo||. At prefent, it is ♦•qual to 35,000.

The other chief towns in England, not afpiring to fuch pre-eminence,
t'lough feveral be of far more importance than otners, fliall be clafled, as
h iore-mentioMcd, in a kind of geographies! order, beginning at the
fo ith-weft, and proceeding to the north.

Falmouth, in Cornwall, the moll wefterly port in Eiigland, with a
po|)ulation of 3,684, is tMefly remarkable for the arrival and difpatch of
picket-boatt and irs now forming into a naval depdt ; but Exeter, \\\

• Aikin'n Man. I4<S.

I Huuon's hi!t. cf Birrainshiim.

+ Aikin's Manchefter, 145. 156.
y AiKin'i Mill, ^ j^, ft its{,

I>4

thf

ENGLAND.

the adjacent county pf Devon, is an ancient and refpcAable city.
It is the feat of an extenfive commerce in coarfe woollen goods,
raanufa^ured in a part of Somerfetfhire and i" Devon and Corn-
wall *. • They are exported to Italy, and other parts pf fhe con-
tinent, to the annual value, as is fuppofed, of 6op,oool., and the Ead
India Company purchafe yearly to a conliderable amount. Befidea
the native wool of the above mentioned counties, Exeter imports frora
Kent about 4000 bags a year. Some (hips are alfo occupied in the cod-
fi(hery of Newfoundland, and in the Greenland capture of whales. The
imports are from Spain, Italy, Hamburgh, and the Baltic ; and coals
from the north of England and Wales. It is, moreover, the refidence
of many genteel families ; and the frequent refort pf others from the
neighbouring counties. Inhabitants, 17,398.

Plymouth is a celebrated port, with a population of 43,194.

Dorcheller, the chief town of the county of Dorfet, is a place of
confideriible antiquity, fituated on the river Froni^ j but has no maini-
fa«Stures, and is only celebrated for its malt Uqiior. Inhabitants, 2,402.

Salilb'ury, the principal town of Wiltlhire, is chiefly rei^iarkable for
extreme neatnefs ; and for its cathedral, a boautiful piece of Gothic
arcbitt 'ibire, with the loftied I'pire in England, the height being 400
feet. There is a manufaftiiro of flannels, and another of cutlery goods
ant) ';i irdware. the fuperiority of the fciflars being particulnrlv noted,
I.'ihabi mis 7,668. Wilton, in the fame county, ii> famed Tor the manu-
fachii-e of beautiful parpets.

W; I heftet the chief city of J^lanipfliire, was for many centuries the
vnt tvopolis of England ; :> pre»eminence which it did not >vholly lofe till
•the if>n teenth century f . The port was Southampton ; but tlie fuivrior
faf I" .nd convenience of that of London jri .dually reftond the latter
to that nietropohtan dignity which it held lu t!>e Roman period. Win-
cheller remains a venerable city, witli mi'KV veiliges of ancient fame and
fplendour. It is fituated in a bottom, amid open chalky downs, upon
the fmall river Itchyn. The cathedral rather impreffes the idea of ma.
jeftic gravity than of magnificence ; and has no fpire, having been
eredled before that mode of architedure was ufed. 1 he afhes of feveral
Saxon monarghs are here preferved with reverence. Not far from the
cathedral ftands the celebrated eollrge founded by William of Wick-
ham, and which has fent tbrvh many illuilrious characters. The regula-
tions of this fchool are 'u fome inllaiices peculiar and fevere ; but in
this, and the other gra id Enghfh feminaries, the equality of the pupils,
except in refpe«ft ot ag< and abilities, and even the fubfvrviency in which
the younger tire 'leld by the elder, tend to Heel .nd fortify the mind
«ffainil the fub"" quent cares and emulations of life, tff the centre of the
city is ^ fmall '<ut moil elegant Gothic crofs ; and at the wellern extre-
mity is tl^e fhell of a palace, built under the direttion of Sir Chrillopher
Wren, yel neavy and inelegant , t w -^ begun by Charles II.- but left
unfmilhed at his death, jt has lince been uf'l for French prifonerM,
Mild in 1796 was the refidence o( about 640 emigr.'.^t prieils from France,
I'he iuhabitaiith of tliis city, b\ the late enumeration, amount to ^,826.

Iii the fame cf)unly is fil\i<nted portfmouth, the grand naval arfenal of
Eiigland. The harbour is noble and capricioiu j narrow at the entrance
but rpnading out into an inland bay live or li\ miles in length, and
fron-. two to four in breadth. The advantages derived fnnn nature have
Dcen improved by the art and indullry oi fucceni\e generations ; and to

f .iikiii's Ensl. dilincatcd, p. 33 j.

■W

Apairiolj

•r

ENGLAND.

a patriot, Portfmouth prcfents one of the moft interefting fcenes to be
found in the Britifli dominions. The regular forti^catici'.B towards tlic
land, in themfelves happily a novelty to the Britifti eye,^ the magnitude
jind variety of the maritime objects and manufa^ures, and the profpciTr
of Spithead, the grand focus of naval armament, confpirc, with a tliou-i
fand relative ideas concerning the power of England, fuprcme in eveiy
fea, to excite our aftonifhment and exultation. Inhabitants, exclufivc of
Gofport, 32,166.

Lewes is efteemed the chief town of SufTex ; the fituation is lofty and
pifturefque, efpecially the lite of the ancient caille belonging to ' the
once powerful Earls of Warren and tSulFex. Beneath, in a pleafant
plain watered by the river Ouie, Hand the ruins of an ancient minnery.
Inhabitants, 3,300.

Cliichciler retains fome little traffic ; but it is chiefly regarded as an
ancient city, and a bifliop's fee. Brighthglmfliojje is a faftiionable refort for
the fea air and bathing. An extenfive beach extends four miles under lofty
cliffs ; and on the other fide are wide open downs, compofed of numerous
verdaiit hills diveriified with winding cavities. Towai'ds Shorehain are pita
of a kind of bitumen, which might, perhaps, be ufed in fome manufafture.
Wiion drii-d an;! rolled by the waves, it forms balls of various iizes ;
frequent on the beach and formerly ufed as fuel by the poor, though
iince forbidd.'n on account of the noxious fmell. Brighthelmltone not only
prefeiits the nearell open Ihore to the capital, but is dillinguiflicd for
ihe pecuiikr mildnefs and lalubrity of the air. Inhabitants, 7,''3y.

Canterbury, the chief town of Kent and the metropolis of Uie Eng-
lifli church, is chiefly remarkable for ecclt lialtical antiquities. Its inha-
bitants amount to 9000. The county town is Maidllon*, noted for
hops and thread. Kent prefents many oth<T important tov.'i.s, as Deplr
ford, Greenwich, Woolwicli, (Jraveft-nd, L'hatham, Rochclh'r, ar.d the
fiiihionable reforts of N'fargate, Ramigate, and Tunbridg''. Do\:r and
Deal an' remarkable havens.

Having completed this brief fiirvey of the chief towns to the fjuth of
the Sev(-rn and the Thames, tliofe of tlie middle and northern couiiuoi
may be again commenced from the well.

Honlurd, the capital of a count \ bordering on Wales, \^% known
in the Saxon times ai> an epifeopal fee. The callie, fuppofed to have
been founded in the reign of tiie Confeflbr, was on the left banlj of the
river VV^ye. 'I'he cathedral is large ; but the town prefents little remark-
al)i«', having gone into great decay ; the only manufacture is that of
gloves*. Inhabitants, 6H2H. s

Gloi'cefhr, tlu^ capital of the cqiuity fo called, is admired for the re-
gularity of the four principal ilreets joining in tht- centre of the town.
It avails itfelf of the traffic of the Severn j which, among other (i(\\
jifFords a luxurio;4S tupply of lamprrys. Tliis town has been recently
eelebrated for ifs neatnefs, and the chfapnef;, of provijlons. Inhabitants,

7.579-

Worcefler is alfo fituatcd on the nobte river Severn, over which there
i'j a beautiful bridge. The manufactures are chiefly gloves and woollen
(luffB ; and the p«>reelain maintains a high reputi-tion. Inhabitants^

On the eaft, the firlt town of no e is Cov Mitir, elfeemed the moft inlanci
and centrical of tf»e Englifh towns ; v.lieuce, prrhaps, the militarv phrafe
>>f fcnduig a man to Coventry, win re he would be thi moil remote from

• Go\igh 'f Camden, li. 450.

frrvice.

■■SV:

ENGLAND.

fervice. The manufa£liires are chiefly ribbons, with a few gauze? and
cainleta. The beautiful crofs erefted in 1 541, after being much da-
maged by the lapfe of years, has been taken down*. Inhabitants, 16034.

The next memorable place is the city of Norwich, the capital of
Norfolk. It is, however, not mentioned till the year 1004;, when it
was ruined by the Daneit. The worfted manufaftory is fuppofea to have
been introduced here by the Flemings, in the twelfth century, and was
followed by that of fayes, arras, bombazeens, &c. Of late tne damafks,
camlets, crapes, ftuffs, &c. here wrought, have been computed at the
yearly vaJue of 700,000!. ; but the falhionable ule of cottons, and the
interruptions of commerce by war, have confiderably Icffcned the con-
fumption. The wool is chiefly from the counties of Lincoln, Leiceiter,
and Northampton ; the chief exports, to Holland, G»*rmany, and the.
Mediterranean f . Nonvich is of courfe opulent and extenfive, but the
ftrrots are confuied and devious. Inhabitants, 36,8510.

Yarmouth is a noted fea-port, wth a beautiful quay ; and remarkable
for its fifhcries of mackarol in May and June, and herrings in O<i\obor
and November ; the latter, cured by fait, and dried in the fmoke of wood,
are called red-licrrings ; and, belidi'S home confumption, form a confi-
derable article of export to Spain and Italy. Inhabitants, 14,845.

In proceeding northwards, Lincoln nmft arreft attention i thoujrh
BOW much fallen from its former fame. Thf interior of the cathedral h
iidmired for its lightiiefs and magnificence. The flu'cp of the counir
form a celebrated breed, but the wool goes chiefly to Norwich. Lincoln
trades in coals, imported on the Trent. Inhabitants, 7,398-

Derby, which gives name to the county fo called, h\ a neat town on
the river Dorwcnt, wit!\ five pariilios and a ))(>pulatioi> of about 1 1,000
fouls. In 1734 the firll mill for throwing filk was htrc eilablilhed, the
model having been brought from Italy. There in a celebrated and
imique manufacture at Derby, celebrated all over Europe, that of the
fluor, which is railed from the lead mines, in mafll's of fuch a fi/.e and
beauty as have never yet been difcovei'cd in any other regi»ni ot the
world.

In a cTiorographv of England, Leicefler and Slirewfljury might dcferve
defcriptioi^ but its geography can only embrace the moil important
topics. The city of Chefter muil claim the next confideration. It is of
Roman origin, and the chief ftreets are fingiilar in their conilrudion,
being excavated beneath the level of the ground, while a covered portico,
in the front of the houfes, affords an elevated and flieltered foot-path ;
beneath are the fliops and warelionfes, on t!;c level of the ilreet, to which
*lxc pallniger defcends by occafional Itairs. 'I'lie trade of Clieiler is not
«u)nfi derable, but it carries on a Ihare of the tiiiflRc with North Wales j
a;id its two aimual fairs are famous f,tr the lale ot Iriih linens. It is the
favotirite refidt'nce of many genteel families froni Waks |. luhaibitanl!<,
15,052. *

Near an prtcnfivc bay of the Irifli fea, which might now be termed
the bay of Lancailer, while antiquaries aflVcl to retain t!ic Roman name
of Mor'tcamie, ftands Lancafter, an ancient and populous town. The
name is iu the north pronounced Loncalter, the proper etymology, ab it
Uands upon '^he rivtr Loii. W hen the counties olCumherland and W«?fU
morelanU beitrnged to the Scots, this was regarded at; a kind of frontier
place ; and wah def»*nded by a ilroug caitje, iituated on a commanding

• fJoUith's Cjrmfi.n, vol li, p. 74^%

t A kin, 316.

tmtner

royal 1

well ki

into a I

with tl

kennie

On \

ing tov

On the

fea-pori

that of

vileges ■

Itoek-fii

Hull di

bour is

dom. '

but chie

them \v

wool an(

thern co

other br

Ihire*.

Leeds
the great
pal mart
is iituatei
the parifl
villages ;
approprii
«icted wit
elevated
thiiuier w
on the ea
«>!> Jicfou:
''uait, an
Durha
eminence
renders i
wh\ch litt
pleafnnt p
thepeninj
lituation,
the banks
nature, w
leiice of t
cuted ; b
wAi, that
tile archo!
crols ; w
bloody CO
the lowei
architedu
ten Son

emmeno

ENGLAND.

tminence. Lancalter aftemards gave the title of Duke to princes of the
royal blood ; and the contentions of the houfes of York and Lancafter are
^vell known. There is a bridge of five arches over the Lon ; which opens
into a coufiderable haven, the feat of a moderate commerce, efpecially
with the Welt Indies. A noble aqueduft has been conitru£ied by Mr,
Rennie. Inhabitants 9t030.

On the call, the extenfive province pfYorkfhire contains many flourifli-
ing towns, belides the capital York, and Sheffield, already defcribed.
On the Hufnber, the wide receptacle of many rivers, Hands the great
fea-port of Hull, or Kingiton-apon-HuU ; the latter name being only
that of the rivulet. The town was founded by Edward I. Several i-ri-
yileges were pbtained from Richard II. ; and the firft ftaple of trade, was
lloi-k-filh imported fron> Iceland. In the civil wars of the 17th centurj',
Hull difplayed the firll flag of defiance againft the monarch. The har-
^jour is artificial, and is fuppofed to prcfent the larged dock in the king-
dom. Tiie trade is important with America and the fouth of Europe,
but chiefly with the Baltic ; and fcveral (hips are' employed in the nor-
thern whale filhtry. The coaftiiig traffic is extenfive in coals, corn,
wool and manufaftures : and Hull fupplies the commerce of many nor-
thern counties ; having not only communication with the Trent, and
other branches of the Humber, but with the rivers and canals of York-
ihire*. Its inhabitants amounted in 1801 to 29,516.

Leeds, )3radfield, Hahfax, and Wakefield, are the chief centres of
the great manufaftures of woollen cloths and fluffs. Leeds is the princi-
pal mart for brpad-cloths, or what foreigners term fine Englifli cloth. It
is fituated on the river Aire, in an exteniive vale ; and the population of
the parifti amounts to 5'^, 162 : the cloths are woven in the neighbouring
villages ; but are dyed, prepared, and fold at Leeds. The cloth-hall
uppropriated to the fali", is a vail edifice ; and the whole bufinefs is tranf-
jictod within the fpac.e of an hour on the market days. Halifax is an
pK'vated fituatipji, and very populous. It is the chief market for the
thinner wouUtMi clptljs ; fuch a$ fluffs, culimancos, &c. Scarborough,
on the eaflern coail, is a place of celebrated refort ft)r fca-bathing, and
oi) Jiciount ()f its mjnoi-al Myatcr ; the fite is romantic, but the port is
iuiall, and chiofly frequented by liiliing vi-fTols.

Durham is a pleafant and veiicrnb|e city, extending partly over an
eminence : tlic river AV'ere, winding aroijtiu in tho form of a horfe-fl\be,
renders it peninfular.* Near the neck of land is placinl the caftle, of
winch little more than 1 he keep remains ; which is furroiuided by the
pleafant garden of the bilhop's adjacent palace. Tp^^'ai'ds the point of
the peiiinlula Hands the cathedral ; a moil aiigiill editice, in a moft augufl
litiiation, with deep declivities on the foutli and well, down to the river;
the banks of which are finely wooded, and rich in the wild beauties of
nature, which have been improved, not injured, by the tafte and opu-
lence of the clergy. The bridge on the call is narrow, and meaidy exe-
cutt'd ; but on the foiith, there is an elejraiit modern bridge ; and on the
wi'fl, that of hilhop Flanibard is admired foe thelightnefs and beauty of
the arches. About a mile from the town, on this fide, ftands Nevil's
crols ; where David II. king of Scot1:uid, was taken prifoner after a
bloody confli(ft. The cathedral wab built about the year 1004, at leaf!
the lower part, which belongs to what is called the oaxon form of
architerture, and is now repairing at the expencc of the bifhop and chap,
tcr. Some branches of the woollen nuuiutadlure are carried on at Dur«

• Aikin, Engl dcliit. 56.

ham,

ENGLAND.

ham, and a Few elegant carpets have been lately made there in a kind of
Mofaic form. Inhabitants, 7530.

Stockton on the river Tees, .Sunderland at the mouth of the Were,
and South Shields on that of the Tyne, are fea-port towns in the
l)i(hopric (for fo the county of Durham is commonly ftyled in the north)
of confiderable fize, trade, and population. .Hart-le-Pool is only a
bathing places

On the river Tyne ftands Newcaftlc, fo termed from a fortrefs crefted
by Edward I. This large and populous town, containing 28,366 inha-
bitants, is placed in the centre of the g.*and coal-mines in the counties of
Durham and Northumberland, which have for centuries fupplied Loi;don
and moft of the eaft and fouth of England with that fuel ; which hn ,,
perhaps, contributed more to the manufaftures and commerce, and cou-
feqiient wealth and power of this kingdom, than any other material or
circumllance. The coal fleets fometimcs amount to five hundred fail ;
their ftation is at Shields, and the quays Jarrow and Wiliing^ton. Even
as a nurfery of feamen, the trade is invaluable *. In all parts of the
neighbourhood are feen large carts laden with coals, and proceeding
towards the ports, on inclined planes, without the help of horfes or men,
to the great furprife of the ftrangcrf . Near NewcalUc are alfo fowiul
quarries of grind-ftonc ; and many glafs-houfes fmoke around, the pro-
du^lions of wliich have been recently of remarkable purity. Other ex.
ports are, pickled fixlmon, lead, fait, butter and tallow. The fuburb
•f Gatefliead flands on the fouth of the Tyne, and is jConneAed with the
city by a grand bridge. The fhops and crowded ilreets recal the idea
of London ; but the latter are generally narrow, fteep, and incom*
modioirs.

Berwick-upon-Tweed, being on the Scotifli fide of the river, fliall be
referved for the defcription of that country. The chief remaining town
^n England is Carlifle, the capital of the county of Cumberland, placed
at the confluence of the rivers Pettril and Caldew, with the Eden|:. The
old fortifications remain nearly entire. It is fuppofed to have been the
ancient Luguballia ; but neither the callle nor cathedral are remarkable,
The chief mancfaftures are linens prifitcd and checked, whips, and
fifti hooks. The town is little, but populous, containing 10,2 2 1 inha,
fcitants ; and is chiefly memorable for tranfaftions in the ancient wars
Jjetween Scotland and England.

Walps, a country abounding in the fublime anti beautiful features of
liature, contains many towns of note ; and the defcription of a few has
been referved to this place, for the greater clearnefs of arrangement.

Swanfea is on many accounts entitled to be ranked as the firll town in
Wales. By the returns its population is eftimated at 6099, which ig
ponfiderably under the real amount. It poJTefl*es a very commodious
and fafe harbour, lately greatly improved by the ereftion of two fine
piers. Its trade in cpal and copperas is very er.tenfive. It Hands at the
inou^h of the river Tawey, which is navigable about three miles above the
0wn. It once poflefled a fine caftle, very confiderable remains of whicb
^re ftill preferved in fine repair. It is a laftiionable refort for bathers in
the fummer feafon. The coal is remarkable in mineralogy.

Caermarthen, the capital of a county, is alfo regarded as the principal
^town in South Wales : it Hands upon the riyer Tovry, and was anciently
defended by a caftle, now demolilhed. The haven ia (hallow, gind th«
Jtrade, of courfe, not very confiderable j|. Inhabitants, 5)548.

* GoDgli's Camden, iii. 251. + Paujas, voyage en AngJ. i. 163.

I Uo'tgh's Ciimdcn, iii. J 75. || Gouj^h's Camden, 11.504,507

Wincf
Su(

Richi

Ker

funom

pcmbrok^y

ENGLAND;

ind of

Were,
n the
north)
only a

;refted
S inha-
iitics of

jOiidon
;h ha:;,
iid cou-
erial or
cd fail ;
Evea
I of the
cecding
or mfii,
b fouiul
he pro-
ther ex-
fuburb
with the
the idea
I incom*

(hall be
ng town
, placed
n^. The
jecn the
rarkable,
\ips, and
Zi inhur
snt wars

atures of
few has
ent.

i town in
which i«
imodious
two fin«
ids at the
ibove the
of which
tathers in

1 principal
anciently
jflid. th«

II. 163.

»,5C7

Pembroke, on a creek of Milford haven, is a fmall town of little com-
merce.

Caernarvon is efteemed the chief town of North Wales, for the beauty
of the fituation, regularity of the llreets, and above all for the gran-
deur of the cattle, one of the moft magnificent in Europe, founded by
Edward I. in 1282. Here was bofn Edward II. furnamed of Caernar-
von, who was immediately created the firft Englifh Prince of Wales ; liis
father having equivocally promifed to the vanquiihed Wclfh a prince bora
in their own country, and who could not fpeak one word of Engliih.
The town has a confiderable trade with London, Briftol, Liverpool, and
Ireland, and has a beautiful quay along the fide of tlie Menai, a ttrait
between North Wales and Anglefea *. ^

Edifices.] In a brief enumeration of the principal edifices in Eng-
land, the royal palaces demand of courfe the firft attention. Windfor
caille, fituated on an eminence near the Thames, has an appearance
truly grand, and wortliy of the days of chivalry. The view extends as
far as the cathedral of St. Paul's; and the wliole fccne ftroiij^ly impreflVs
the circumftances fo vividly delineated in Gray's pathetic ode on Eton
College. This palace contains many noble paintings. Hampton Court
is in a low fituation, ornamented with aquedu6ls from tl"* river Colne.
This palace is alfo replete with interefting pictures. Tli ;'l garden*

at Kew are truly worthy of a great and fcientific prim ae ground,
though level, is diverfified with much art ; and the collection oi plants
from all the regions of the known world, fills the admirer of nature witk
delight and furprife. They are fo difpofed, that every plant finds, an it
were, its native foil and climate ; even thofe that grow on rocks and lava
having artificial lubftitutes.

The royal palace at Greenwich has been long abandoned, but the ob-
fervatory does credit to fcience. It is a plain edifice, well adapted t&
aitronomical obfcrvations, and at prefent ably fuperintended by Mr.

Pond. ~ ■ " - - - -

fcope,
whi-'re
ledge.

Dr. Herfcliell's obfervatory, inftead of containing his tele-
is fufpended from it in the open air, at Slough, near Windfor,
he is continually extending the bounds of attronomical know-

Among the houfes of the nobility and gentry, or palaces, as they
would be termed on the continent, the firli fame, perhaps, belongs to
Stowe, the feat of the Marquis of Buckingham ; which, Jor its enchant-
ing gardens, has been long celebrated. When Mr. Beckford's magnifi-
cent ercttions at Fonthill are completed, that fame will be far furpaffed.
The prefent intention, however, will be better accompliftied by a brief
view of the edifices, as they occur in the order of counties above ar>
ranged.

Cornwall. — Mount Edgecombe, Lord Edgecombe.

Devonihirc. — Powderham-caftle, Courtney family.

Wiltfliire.— -Wilton, Earl of Pembroke's ; Fonthill, Mr. Beckford's,

Hampihire. — The Grange, Mr. Henley ; the Vine, Mr. Chute.

Surrey. — Earl Spencer'^ at Wimbleton ; Farnham-cattle, Bifliop of
Winchefter.

Suflex. — Arundel-caillc, Duke of Norfolk ; Goodwood, Duke of
Richmond. «

Kent.— Knowle, Duke of Dorfet ; Penftiurft, near Tunbridge, a
fanusus feat of the Sydneys.

* Pennant's Walei, ii. aaj, 127,

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Effex.— Wanftead, EarlofTilney. ,

Middlefex.— Sion houfe, Duke of Nortlmmberland. --'.■.^ ■

Bucks Stowe ; Bulltrode, Duke of Portland, &c. &c. '""" '

Oxfordfhire. — Blenheim, Duke of Marlbofough ; Newnham, Earl of
Harcourt, &c.

Gloucefterihire.— Berkeley-caftle, Earl of Berkeley ; Kmg'8 Wefton,
Lord de Clifford.

Herefordfliire.— Acoabury, Duke of Chandos ; Clifford-caille, Lord
Clifford.

Worcefterlhire.— Hagley, Lord Lyttleton. The Leafowes of Shen.
ftone is in Shropfhire.

Warwickfliire.— Warwick-caftlc, Earl of Warwick.

Northampton. — ^Althorp, Earl Spencer; Burleighj Earl of Stamford ;
and Apthorp, Earl of Weftmoreland.

Bedfordflure.— •Woobum-abbe)', Duke of Bedford j Luton, Marquis
of Butew

Hertfordfliire. — Hatfield, Earl of SaliHmry ; Gorharabur)' (once the
ieat of the great Bacon), Lord Grimilone ; Moore-park, Lord Dundas.

Huntinjrdonfhire.— Kimbolton-caille, Duke of Manchefler ; Bugden,
Bifliop of Lincoln.

Cambridge{hire..—Thorney -abbey, Duke of Beaufort.

Suffolk. — Eufton-hall, Duke of Grafton,
r Norfolk. — Houghton, Lord Cholmondeley ; Raynham, Lord Townf*
£end.

Lincoln.— Grimfthorpc, Dukcof Ancafter.

Rutland(hire.— Okeham and Burley, Earl of Winchelfea:

Leicefterfhire.— Belvoir-caftlc, Duke of Rutland.

Nottinghamihirc. — Welbeck, Duke of Portland ; Workfop, Duke of
Norfolk.

Derbyfhire.— Chatfvvurth, Duke of Devonfhire; Keddlafton, Lord
Scarfdale.

StafFordfhire. — Beau Dcfurt, Earl of Uxbridge j DuJley-cadle, Lord
Dudley, &c.

Shropfhiro.— Okelev-park, Lord CHvc ; Atcham, Lord Berwick,
&c.

Chefhire. — Cliolmonde'ey-hall, Earl of Cholmondeley; Eaton4iall,
£arl of Grofvenor.

Lancailer. — Kuowflcy, Earl of Derby.

Yorkfhire. — Sheflit Id-manor, Duke of Norfolk ; Wentworth-caftle,
Earl of Aylefbury ; Hornby naf tie, Earl of Holdernefs ; Kivcton, Duke
<if Leeds, &c. &c.

Weflmureland.-— Louther-liall, Lord Lonfdale.

Cumberland. — Greyituck-cailh', Duke of Norfolk.

Durham. — R;>by-calllc, Earl uf Darlington; Biihop's«AuckIand,
Bifhpp of Durham.

Nc^rthumberland.— Aln.vick, Duke of Northu'mJberland; Morpeth*
caftlc. Earl of Carliile,.&c.

Wales abounds in elegant edifices : as Winftay, the feat of Sir WatkiA
Williams Wynn ; I^ord Bulkolcy's, near Beaumaris t Duke of Beaufort's,
in BrecknocKfhirc ; C^liirk-callle, in Denbighfhire ; Hawarden<cafUe, io
Fliiitfkire ; Swanfea and Cardiff caiUes, in Glamorganfliire { Powis
caftle, in Montgomery, Pi£ton-ca(lle, in Pcmbrokefhire.

Among public buildings mufl not be omitted, t)ie . noble hofpitali for
fcamen and foldicrs, at Greenwich and Chelfea. Many of the county
halU have no iaconliderable claims to clegaot architefture.

. , !• Baioois.}

ENGLAND. Ip

Bridges.] The bridges are worthy the fuperiority of the Englifli
roads ; and a furprifing exertion in this department, is the recent con-
llru£iion of bridges in uail iron^ an invention unknown to all other nations.
The firll example was that of Coalbrook-dale, in Shropfliire,-trc6ic»|
over the Severn in 1779. This bridge retts on abutments of ftono.-
work, the main rib confiiling of two pieces, each 70 feet long, con-
neded by a dove-tail joint /aliened with fcrews. The road over th*
bridge is made of clay and iron flag, 24 feet wide and one deep ; tite
fpan of the arch, 100 feet 6 inches j height from the bafe line to th*
centre, 40 feet ; the weight of iron employed, 378 tons 10 hundred
weight *. Anotlier iron bridge has lince been erei^ed in the vifcinity.
A uupendous iron bridge w^s thrown over the harbour at Sunderland,
about five years ago ; the height of which i« 100 feet, and the fpan of the
arch 236 : it is compofcd of detached pieces, which, if damaged in any of
the parts, may be withdrawn and replaced by others. It ,is fupported
between two llrong and elevated ftone piers, and the surh is furmounte4
at either end by vaft hoops, fupporting the platform or paiFage of the
bridge, which is thus rendered almoft level. Wlien viewed from beneath*
the elegance, lightnefs, and furprifing height, excite adn\iration, and the
carriages appear as if palling among^the cuiuds.

Inland Naviuatiox.] This article is important to the bell intereftt
of the country, and demands particular attention. The earlieit inland
iiavigation that can be authenticated, is the Sankey canal, leading from.
the coal-pits at St. Hek'ns, in Lancafliire, to the river Merfey, and
coaftrudled in order to convey coals to Liverpool f . The length of.
the canal is twelve miles, with a fall of ninety feet. The vlA of pariia-
inent pafled in 1 755 ; the original intention was only to render the rivldet
called S.'.nkey Brook, navigable ; but it was found more advantageous to
iorm a canal alon«' its courie. The furveyor was Mr. John Eyes.

But the Duke of Bridgowater is juilly venerated as the grand founder
of inland navigation : his fpirit and opulence were happily feconded by
Brindley, than wliom a greater natural genius in mechanics never exifted.
It was in the year 1758 that the iirii zA was obtained ft^r thefe great
deligns. The fir lit canal extends from Worfley mill, about feven com-
puted miles from Mancheller, and reaches that town by a courfe of nine
miles. In this fhort fpace almoli every difficulty occurred that caa
arife in fimilar fchemcs ; but mountains and rivers yielded to the geniua
of Brindley. There are fubtcrraneous paiTages to the coal in the
mountain, of near a mile in length, fometimes cut through the folid
rock, and occafionally arched over with brick \ with air-funneli to the
top of the hill, fome of them thirty>feven yards perpendicular. Thia
beautiful canal is brought over the river Irwell, by an arch of thirty-
aine feot in height, and un.ier which barges pafs without lowering their
mails. The Duke of Bndgewater fuon afterwards extended a canal of
twenty<nine miles in length, from Longford-bridge, in Lancafliire, t9
Hempilooes, in Chefhire.

Alter this deferved tribute to the fathers of inland navigation in Eng-
land, it will be eligible to review the other canals in a geographical
manner, proceeding from the north to tlte fouth.

FirA in order is the Lancafter canal, extending from Kendal, in
Weftnnoreland, by Lancafter, to Weft Houghton in Lancafliire, a fp^cc
of about r&>venty4four miles.

* 0«N)gh'» Csmdaa, iL 417.

t Fbilips, HiA. oflnLiRd Ntv^stioa.

The

iiuiaiiiJa^' '

England.

• The canal from Leeds to Liverpool, direAed in a northerly courfe by
Skipton, winds through an extent of 1 17 miles ; and from this canal a
-branch alfo extends to Manchefter,, begun in 1771.

From Halifax to Manchefter is another confiderable canal, commonly
tailed that of Rochdale ; length thirty ^ne miles and a half, begun in 1 794.

Anotlier canal extends from Manchefter towards Wakefield; and
another called the Peak Forell canal, ftretches from the former, fouth-
cail, about fifteen miles.

Another joins the river Dun, feveral miles above Doncaller, to the
' river Calder, near Wakefield.

To pafs feveral of fmaller note, the Chefterfield canal extends from
Cliellerfield, in the county of Derby, to the Trent at Stockwith, a
courfe of forty-four miles and three quarters,' begun in 1770.

In Lincolndiire, one canal extends from Lincoln to the Trent, and
another from Horncaitle to Sleaford. Granthan canal reaches from
that town to the river Trent, a courfe of thirty miles.

The grand defign of Brindley was to join, by inland navigation, the
four great ports of the kingdom, liriftol, London, Liverpool, and Hull.
Liverpool is accordingly connected with Hull by a canal from that long
navigable river the Trent, and proceeding north to the Merfey. The
canal which joins thefc? two rivers is llyled the Grand Trunk ; and wat
begun in 1 766, under the diredion of that great engineer ; but was not
completed till 1777 : the length is 99 miles. It was attended with
great difficulties, particularly in palling the river Dove, in Derbylhire,
where there is an aquedu£i of twenty-three arches, tlie tunnel through
the hill of Hare-caiUe, in Sta^rdOiire, is in length 2880 yards, and
more than 70 yards below the furface of the ground, and was executed
with great labour and expence *. But the utility correfponds with the
Iprandeur of the defign : fait from Chefhire, coals and pottery from
^taffbrdfhire, and manufactures from various places, arc tranfported on
this canal.

From the Grand Trunk five or fix branches extend in various direc-
tions ; among which muil not be omitted tliat to the river Severn, near
Bewdley, which connects the port of Briftol with thofe of Liverpool
and Hull ; the length is ±6 miles ; completed in 1772.

From the city of Chelcer one canal extends to the Merfey, and an<
•titer to Namptwich } another proceeds fouth to Sln'cwlbury, uniting
xbt Merfey and the Severn ; with north-welt and fouth-cafl branches of
confiderame length.

From Coventry, in the centre of the kingdom, canals extend to tlic
Grand Trunk ; to Alhby-de-!a-Zouch, and to tlie Braunilon, or Grand
Junction canal.

What is called the StaffbrJihire canal, extends from the Grand Trunk
|0 the riwr Severn ; and is met by the Kington canal, which reaclu »
to Kington, in Htrcfordihire, fo as almoit to join the rivers Trent am!
Wye. It may be h -re oltferved, that in this defcription the gprand courfts
of navigation arc att.'uded to, rather than the minute names and divifions
of the canals.

Several inland nnvigations pafs by Birmingham. The Union canal
completes a courfe of forty-three miles and three-quarters, from Leiccftcr
to Northampton, whence the river Nen is navigable to the £ea.

various c(

• C.'rv'« Plant, >>. 16, 27, jj?. The anount of the GranH Trunl; in Phllipi, is very
tfr!te>'ltve { lie may here be rcietred to in gcucral tor die «}U>«f a. tf alfo HtHiAimiiiii
122.

«r» . j f . . # ., ,; Another

ENGLAND.

an'

the
irand

rutik
ach(9
it ami

urft»
rifions

canal
ccftor

I n very
icmun,

jther

Another canal extends from Gloucefter to Hereford : and the fouth
of Wales prefents feveral navigations of confiderable length, particularly
that from Brecon, in Brecknockfhire, to Newport, in Monmouthfhire.

The Severn is not onlv joined with the Trent and the Humber, by
various courfes of navigation, but is united with the Thames, by a caniil
extending by Stroud to Lechlade, a courfe of near forty miles.

Other canals branch out from the Thames in various direft''^: s : that
of Oxford extends to the Grand Trunk, or rather joins the Coventry
canal, after a courfe of ninety-two miles.

The Braunfton, or Grand Junftion canal, reaches from Brentford, on
the Thames, or even from Paddington, and joins the Oxford canal at
Braunfton, in Northamptonfhire, after a courfe of ninety miles. It is
ftyled the Grand JunAion, becaufe it may be laid to unite the nume-
rous courfes that pervade the central counties, with the capital of the
kingdom.

On the fouth of the Thames, a canal proceeds from Reading to Bath j
and another fi-om Wcybridge to Bafingiloke ; and a third irom Wey-
bridge to GodalmiiK

A fmall canal or two have been executed in Devonfhire. The Andover
canal, in Hampfhire, extends from Andover to Southampton water.
SufTex prefents two canals, that of Arundel, and that of Lewes.

Manufactures and CoMMERcii.] The manufactures and com-
merce of England form fo extenfive a theme, that only .a brief and fu»
gitive idea of them can be here attempted. The earlieft ftaple commo-
dity of England was tin, a metal rarely found in other countries. The
Pliocnicians firft introduced it into commerce, at leaft five or fix hundred
years before the Chriftian xra ; and their extenfive trade foon diffufed it
imoiig the Oriental nations. The Romans, upon their conqueit of thefe
regions, did not neglcdl the fource of wealth ; but as Cornwall was not
conquered by the Anglo-Saxons till the reign of Athelilan, we kA>vp
not whether the Cornilh Britons carried on any confiderable traffic in
this commodity, though it be probable that it was at leaft exchanged for
the V, ines of France. Yet even in the reign of John, the product was
fo inconfidcrable, that the mines were farmed to Jews for loo marks i
Idit in that of Henry III., they began again to yield a large profit, which
has gradually increafcd*.

Cornwall, like moft countries that abound with minerals, prefents an
(xtenfive afpe£t of defolation : a feries of barren hills and bleak heaths
pervades its whole length, and the violent winds from the fea check the
vegetation of trees and fhrubs. The tin mines are numerous, and of va-
rious defcriptions. This metal is either found in the mafs, in what are
called lodes •dtid^oo/s ; or in grains, or bunches, in the rocks ; or detached
in feparate ftones, called Jhodet or Jlringt ; or in a courfe of fuch ftones
called the beuheyl or living Jlr'tng \ or in the pulverized fliape of fand. Af-
ter having been pounded in a mill, it is melted into blocks of 420 pounds
weight. In the ore it is ftyled black tin, and is fometimes, tnough very.
rarely, found in a metallic ftate.

The fingularity ^nd importance of this firft national ftaple, may apo-
logize for tliis difcuffion ; but the abundance of the other topics will re-
quire more brevity. Wool had been regarded aa a grand ftaple of Eng-
land, as earlv as the twelfth century, but was chiefly exported in a crudo
llate, till Edward III. encouraged fettlements of Flemitn manufadlurers.
Wool foon became the ((aadard of private propertyi wid the prime iMTtifilft

r. •»

tlJ

Borlnfe'* CorairalL

^ '!'.4'-

i^wiSiMuSUiiiiw-'.

ENGLAND.

of commerce. Taxes and foreign fubfidies were eftimated by facks of
this commodity *. Great quantities of raw wool continued to be export-
ed to the Netherlands and Hanfe Towns ; but in the reign of Elizabeth
It began to he chiefly maimfaftured at home, andthe'exportatien of wool-
len cloths was then valued at a million and a half annually. The ex.
portation of raw wool was at length prohibited } and the woollen fabrics
preferve great importance^ though they no longer attraiSi fuch particular
regard, amidft the exuberance of Englifli manufaftures.

In recent times the manufaAures of iron and copper, native minerals^
have become great fources of national wealth-; nor mult the new and ex.
tenlive exportation of elegant earthen-ware be forgotten. Tlie cotton
manufadture is difFufed far and wide, farming a grand fource of induih-y
and profpority. That of linen, except of lailH:loth, is not much culti.
vated in England. The manufadlures of glhfs and fine fteel, clocks,
watches, &c. afe defervedly eminent and extenfive* As the nation is
indebted to Wedgewood for converting clay into>gold, fo to Boy dell for
another elegant branch of exportation, that of beautiful prints.

BeHdes manufactured articles, England exports a number of native
products too numerous to be liere mentioned.

. The Englifli manufadlures hsive been recently eftimated at the annual
value of 63,600,000/. and fuppofed to employ 1,585,000 perfonsf.
Of thefe, the woollen manufa^ure is fuppowd to yield in round fums,
15,000,000/. the leather JO,ooo,ooo/. the iron, tin, and lead lo,oco,ooo/.
the cotton 9,000,000/. The other chief manufa<5\ure8, which yield
from I to 4,000,000/. n\ay be thus arranged, according to their confe.

auence ; fteel, plating, &c. copper aud brafs, filk, potteries, linen and
ax, hemp, glals, paper.

The commerce of England is, at the preilent period, enormous, and
may be faid to extend ta every region of the globe. The trade with the
Weft Indies is one of the moil important, and that witK the Eaft Indies
alone, would have aftoniihed any of the celebrated trading cities of an.
tiquity.

From the States of North America, are chiefly imported tobacco, rice,
indigo, timber, hemp, flax, iron, pitch, tar, and lumber : from the Weft
Indies, fugar, rum, cotton, cofl*ee, ginger, pepper, guaiacum, farfaparilla,
mancineal, mahogany, gums, &c. From Africa, gold duft, ivor)-,
gums, &c. From Uie Eaft Indies and China, tea, rice, fpiccs, drugs,
colours, (ilk, cotton, falt-petre, fliawls, and other products of the loom.
Frotp our remaining fetttements in North America, are imported furs,
timber, pot-afh, iron ; and from the various ftatcs of Europe, numerous
articles of utility and luxury.

The annual income of Great Britain was eftimated in 1799 by Mr. Pitt
at 102,000,000 ; and including the money, of which the eltimate is fai-
from certain, the whole capital of Great Britain may perhaps be calculated
at more than one thoufand two hundred millions.

In the year 1 797, the amount of the exports, according to Cuftom*
houfe accounts, was 28,917,000/. and of the imports, 21,013,000/.
yielding, as is fuppofed, clear profits on foreign trad^ to the amount of
at leai. 10,000,000/. The number of merchant vefTels amounts probably
to 16,000 ; and it is calculated that 140,000 men and boys are employed
ao the navigation.

* Campbell't Pofiticnt Survey, vol it. p. ijl, rj^. A woik opultat in materia1i,but
•f mod teitioiM ami uncouth cxemtion.
f Mr. <#r«Ui«r ill tl)« Monthly Ma(.Ianuiryi8oi. . >«. r» ,<r

, CHAP.

ENGLAND.

iksof
uport-
RabotH
' wool-
he ex-
fabrics
•ticular

inerals*

and ex-
cotton

ndullry

li culti.
clocks,

atioii is

,'dell for

f native

le annual
erfons f .
nd fums,

)CO,OOo/.

ich yield
z\t confe-
linen and

lous, and
; with the
aft Indies
its of an-

icco, rice»
the Wcfl
faparilla,
ft, ivorj',
lc3, drugs,
Ithe loom.
rted furs,
numerous

Mr. Pitt
late is far
Icalculatcd

Cuftoni-
1,013,000/.
1 amount of

probably
I employed

tiatcriaU,but

CHAP-

? CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.

Climate and SeaJons.-^Face of the Country.-^ Soil and jirrtcufture.-^
Rtvtrs.— Lakes,-— Mountains. — ForeJIs,-— Botany,— ~ZooTogy»—Mttu-
ralogy.'— Mineral IVaters,— Natural Curlofitles,

^ .-» .v,^ o^ »«„>«« T T'he climate of Great Britain is perhaps
Climate and Seasons.] j^ ^^^^ ^^^j^y^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^ J^ ^^^^

country on the globe, as the vapours of the Atlantic ocean are oppofed
to the drying wmds from the Eaftern continent. The Weftern coans, in
particular, are fubje£l to frequent rains : and the eaftern part of Scotland
is of a clearer and dryer temperature than that of England. , The humi*
dity of the climate, indeed, clothes the delicious vales and meadows with
a verdure unknown to any other region : but is injurious to the health of
the inhabitants, by cauung colds and catarrhs, the frequent fourcea of
more deadly diforders. .

In confequence of the mutability of the climate, the feafons themfelves
are of uncertain tenour, and the year might more properly be divided
into eight months of winter, and four of fummer, than into any theoretic
arrangement, originating in the fouthem latitudes. What is called the
Spring dawns in April, commonly, indeed, a mild month ; but the eaftern
wmds, prevalent in- May, feem commiffioned to ruin the efforts of revivinsr
nature, and deftroy the promife of the year. Junc^ Julv, Aujguft, and
September, are umally warm fummer months ; but a ni^nt of froft is not
unknown, even in Auguft, and fometimes a cold Eaft wmd will blow for
three days together ; nor, of late years, are fummers unufual of almoft
conftant rain *. The winter may be faid to commence with the beginning
of October, at which time domeftic fire* become neceffary } but there is
feldom any fevere froft till Chriftmas, and January is the moft ftem month
of the year. Yet, as our fummers often produce fpecimens of winter, fo
now and then gleams of warm funfliine illuminate the darker months^
though rarely amounting to what the French call un ete de St. Martitit or
Martinmas fummer. March is generally the moft unfettled month pi the
year, interfperfed with dry firoft, cold rains, and ftrong winds, with ftorms
of hail and fleet.

Face or the Country.] A chief ftep to the ftudy of Geography
confifts in the knov^ledge of what may be term^rl the phyfiognomy of^the
country ; yet has no province in this fcience been fo completely neg^^ed.
We have even maps of Scotland and Switzerland, without mountains,
and maps of China without canals. The chief features of any country
are its hdls, vales, and rivers ; and of a maritime ftate, the fea^:oaft. Mr.
Pennant, in his ArAic Zoology, has given an admirable defcription of
part of the Englilh ftiores, whicn fliall here be abbreviated, with an alter-
ation in the arrangement, as be choofes to begin with the Straits of
Dover.

From the mouth of the Tweed to Bamborough, extends a fandy (horef
and the moft remarkable obje£^ is Lindesfam, or Holy Ifland, divided
from Northumberland by a level, which is dry at low water, but out of
which the flowing tide wozes fuddenly, fo the terror and peril of the un*

* Til* fummer of itoo wii rtmarkabic for drynift and warmth, fcarcely any viim
Ming fcuni tiis ith of Juns to tht soth of Auguft, when s tbuadw-Aorn fuccsoM

£ 3

■'•

ENGLAND.

wary traveller. From Baniborough Caftlcf to Flamborough Head, are
moftly low cliffs, of lime-ftone, and other materials ; and at Sunderland*
of a peculiar ftone ufed in building, and which feems the work of marine
infers. Scarborough Hands on a vaft rock, projecting into the waves ;
but Flamborough Head is a far more magnificent objeft, beinff formed
of lime-ftone, of a fnowy whitenefs and ftupendous height, vifible far off
at fea. Grand caverns open on the north fide, *« giving wide and folemn
" admiflion, through moft exalted arches, into the body of the moun-
" tain, together with the gradual decline of light, the deep filence of the
** place, unlcfs interrupted by the ftriking of the oar, the coUifion of a
** (welling wave againft the fides, or the loud flutter of the pigeons, af-
** frighted from their nefts in the diftant roof, afford pleafures of fcenery
** which fuch formations as this alone can yield. Thefe alfo are won-
*• derfuUy diverfified. In fome parts the caverns penetrate far, and end in
•* darknefs } in others are pervious, and give a romantic paffage by another
** opening, equally fuperb. Maqy of the rocks are infulated, of a pyra-
** midicd^form, and foar to a great height. The bafes of moft are folid»
** but in fome pierced through and arcticd. All are covered with the
" dung of the innumerable flocks of migratory birds, which refort here
" annually to breed, and fill every little projeftion, every hole, which will
** give them leave to reft *."

Hence to the Humber are commonly clay cliffs ; and near Spurnhead,
amber is fometimes found. The extenfive coaft of Lincolnfhire is flat,
and, according to Mr. Pennant's opinion, has been gained from the fea ;
though, in fome parts, the fea has in its turn invaded the land, and the
remains of a foreft ar& vifible under the waves. The county of Lincoln,
and part of fix others, are the low countries of Britain ; and the coaft i»
diftineuifhable by cluirdies, not by hills. Tlie fhores of Norfolk and
Suffolk prefent fometimes loaniy or clayey precipices, fometimes hillocks-
of fand, and fometimes lo\V and flat fpaces. Hunftanton-cliff rifes to the
height of about eighty feet, compofed of chalk and friable ftone, rcfting
on a bafe of wliat is called iron-coloured pudding ftone, projedling into
the fea. The coaft of Eflex is generally low ; but, to the fouth of the
Thames, arife continued cliffs of chalk, with layers of flint, refembling
mafonry. The north Foreland is a lofty, ciialky promontory j and the
Cliffs of Dover arc known to every reader of Shakefpeare.

It is to be regretted that Mr. Pennant did not extend his animated
defcription to the fouthern and weftern coails : cliffs of chalk and clay
are interfperfed with flat gravel, till the ifland of Portland prefents i^s bold
rocky front. The weftern fliores abound with gramte» flate rocks, and
lime-Kone.

Soil and Agriculture.] The foil and agriculture of England ar*
topics which have recently beenilluftratei in Tuch a multiplicity of me-
ritorious works, that the uibjedl labours under the abundance of^the ma-
terials. A few very general remarks muft here fufiice. The foil is greatly
diverfified, but in general fertile ; and in tio country is agriculture more
thoroughly underftood» or purfued in a grander ftyle, except, perhaps*
in Flanders and Lombardy. The nobiUty and gentry mofUy refiding
upon their eftates in fummer, often retain confiderable farms in their own
lianas, and pra£tife and encourage every agricultural improvement. The
writings of^ Mr. Young, the inftitutions in the weft, and the Board of
Agriculture, recently eredlcd, have contributed to diffufe a wide and laft-
log knowledge of this interefting branch. The intermixture of the green

^"■^W

* Pcunant'i Ar^Hc Zooloj/, vol. i. p. kw
8L

crop*

crops wi

the regu

the art o]

among ti

in the bn

forgotten

Amidfl

two circu;

vaft exter

acres in [

while thof

above half

fit for plar

and three-j

Horticn

great aflidi

and fruits,

fpirit of cu

about 120/,

computed

with ajuft i

afFedlations

tryf.

Rivers."
important £
phical portr
terfeiEled by
and the Mer
after an eaft(
Gloucefter,
grefs of abc
tributary ftr
the Wye t.
The Thar
tains a fouth.
receiving the
and Lee. 1
Wye into ths
vigable to Cr
The Hum
ceivcs many c
Of thefe the
Staflbrdfhire,
direft courfe
ftire. Theot
a navigable ftr
and the Caldei
the woollen .
noble river Vi
branch of the
omitted, whici
the Hull. Th

* Firft Report
t i-wrd Offo«

ENGLAND.

crops with thofe of grain, the ufe of turnips, the irrigation of meadows,
the regular fubftitution of crops appropriated to the ftate of the land,
the art of driaining condu6led on fcientific principles, may be mentioned
among the recent advances of knowledge ; inor muft the improvements
in the breed of fheep and cattle, introduced by Bakewell and others, be
forgotten, though their utility to the confumcr be doubtful.

Amidft fuch topics of juft exultation, it is mortifying to refleft upon
two circumftances, the deficiency of a propef fupply of grain, and thet
vaft extent of wafte lands in this induftrious country. The cultivated
acres in England and Wales are computed at upwards of 39,000,000,
while thofe uncultivated are 7,888,777. Of thefe it is fuppoied that not
above half a million is wholly unimprovable, and perhaps a million is only
fit for plantations, while of the remainder one quarter is fit for tillage,
and three-fourths for meadow and upland pafture *.

Horticulture, or the art of gardening, is alfo purfued in England with
great afliduity and fuccefs. The large fupply of the capital in vegetables
and fruits, and the high prices given for early produce, occafion fuch a
fpirit of cultivation, that each acre thus employed is fuppofed to yield
about 120/. annually, the yearly confumption in the metropolis being
computed at more than 1 ,000,000/. Or ornamental gardens, laid out
with a juft attention to the beauties of nature, and free from the uncouth
afFeftations of art, England is defervedly regarded as the parent coun-

tryt- . . . „

Rivers.] But the rivers and mountains of a country conftitute its more

important features; and, without juft delineations of them, the geogra-
phical portrait cannot boall much truth in refemblance. England is in-
terfeAed by four important rivers ; the Severn, the Thames, the Humber,
and the Merfey. The Severn rifes from the mountain Plinlimmon, and,
after an eafterly courfe to Shrewft)ury, bends its progrefs almoft fouth to
Gloucefter, whence it flows fouth-wett into the Brittol Channel, a pro-
grefs of about 150 miles, navigable as far as Welch-pool. Its chief
tributary ftreams are the Northern and Southern Avons, the Teme and
the Wye J,

The Thames originates in Cotfwold-hills, Gloucefterfliire ; and main-
tains a fouth-eafterly direftion, to its egrefs into the German ocean, after
receiving the Cherwel, the Teme, the Kennctt, another Wye, the Mole,
and Lee, The Medway flows into the eftuary of the Thames, as the
Wye into that of the Severn. The courfe is computed at 140 miles, na-
vigable to Cricklade §,

The Humber is a name almoft confined to a large eftuary, which re-
ceives many confidcrable rivers that fertilize the central parts of England.
Of thefe the Trent is the moft important, which rifes at New-pool, in
StafTordfliire, and, proceeding north-eaft, enters the Humber, after a
direft courfe of about 100 miles, being navigable to Burton ilf StafFord-
fhire. The other principal rivers that imie into the Humber are the Dun,
a navigable ftream which runs by Doncafter ; the Aire navigable to Leeds,
and the Calder navigable to Halifax, both fingularly ufeful in tranfporting
the woollen manuradtures ; the Warf, navigable to Tadcafter ; and the
noble river Ure, or Oufe, which runs by York, and forms another grand
branch of the Humber, navigable to Rippon t nor muft the Dcrwent be
omitted, which is navigable to New Matton ; nor, though laft and leaft,
the Hull. The Humber may be regarded as the item ofa venerable oak,

* Firft Report of the Committee of the Houfe of Commons, p. is.

t iiwrd Orford on Modem Guiwing. \ Campbell, l X46. § Ibid.L 139.

- ' E 3 , •% which)

mfmrnai^aa*--

ENGLAND.

which, as ufual with that tree, fpreads its chief branches in a horizontal
direAion.

Though the Merfey prefent a grand eftuary, its courfe is not of great
extent. It arifes in the Weft Riding of Yorkfhire, and runs to the
fouth-weft ; but the eftuary bends towards the north. The direft courfe
is not above fifty miles ; and is navigable to Stockport : as the Irweil to
near Manchefter, and the Weever to near Northwich, and the mines of
rock-falt.

In briefly defcribing the other navigable rivers of this kingdom, it may
be proper to return to the Severn, and, proceeding fouth-weft, piirfue the
outline of the coaft. The Avon is navigable to Bath« the Perrot to
Illchefter, the Tone to Taunton, the Taw to Barnftaple, and another
branch to Biddeford: the Camil of Cornwall, to Wedbridge, while the
Plym, Dart, and Ex, can alfo be pervaded to a confiderable height=
Another Avon is navigable to near Salifbury, the Itchyn to Winchefter,
the Arun to Arundel, the Oufe to Lewes : the Rotlier, which forms the
haven of Rye, is yet navigable, though fallen in fame. The Stour admits
boats even to Canterbury ; but the Medway prcfents a navigable ftream
as far as Tunbridge. On the north of the Thames, the Lee is navigable
to BiHiop's Storttord and Hertford : the Crouch conveys boats from the
fea to Hull-bridge in EiTex j the Black-water to Chelmsford, and another
branch to Colchefter. The Stour is navigable to Sudbury ; the Onvell
to Stowmarket j, the Deben to Woodbrioge j the Yare and Waveney
prefent accefs to Foulfham, Norwich,' and Bungay. Next is the eftuary
called the Wafh, which receives the Oufe, 'the Nen, the Welland, the
Witham ; all .ftreams of confiderable navigation.

On the North of the Humber, the Tees admits veflels to Stockton ;
the Tyne to Newcaftle.. On the Weft, the Eden is navigable to Car-
lifle ; the Lun or Loyne to Lancafter and Hornby i the Dee taChefter;
the Conway to within two miles of LJanrwft ; the Tivey to a little above
the tawn of Cardigan. Milford Haven prefents branches navigable to
Haverford-weft, and to near Wifton : and laftly, the Wye may be pur-
fued as far as Hay in Brecknockfhire.

In general it may be Obferved of the Britifh rivers, tliat the length of
their courfe is inconsiderable, when compared with that of the Con-
tinental ftreams. The length of the Thames, compared with that of
the Danube, is only as i to 7, and with that of tne Nile as i to 12.
The Kian Ku of China, and the river of Amazons in South America,
extend through a progrefs of more than dfteen times the length of
that of the Thames. The rivers of the fouthem and middle parts
of England prefent a ftrikiog contraft to thofe of the north ; the former
purfuing a flow and inert courfe over mud, between level banks* amid
rich and extenfive meadows ; while the latter roll their clear torrents over
beds of gravel, between elevated banks and rocky precipices ^ and even
when verdant levels occur,, the ftream ftill retains its banks and beds
of gravel. «.

Mountains.] The mountains form another grand feature of geo-
H^raphy. They feldom appear iingle, but are either difpofed in lines or
ndges» called chains, or m anomalous clufters. When they can be ar.
ranged under the firft form or denomination, as the Alps, for example^
or the Pyrenees, they afford great cleamefs to geographical limits and
defcriptions. It is not, however to be conceived, that a chain of moun.
tains forms one feries, as delineated in fmall maps, for the leading fum-
mits diverge on both fides into extenfive ribs, gradually melting into
the champaign country. And the clufterSf if accurately furveyed, will

generally

chain

minerals

a little

traced in

gular bri

v.liile a

of Qogn

fliire, Su

called tlu

ill Ox for

tral ridge

as a cor

BIackdo\

Devon ,

to the L:

in the ifla
Wales

vinces ;

actual fur

' ^iti

ENGLAND.

generally be found to prefent central elevations, whence fmallej: oranchea
irradiate.

While Bennevis, the higheft mountain in Scotland, is not much
above one quarter of the height of Mont Blanc, the fovf :?ign of the
Alps, the Enghlh and WeKh fummits afpire to heights ftiUlefs confi-
derable ; Snowdon being only 3568 Eng-lifn I'eet above the fea, wliile
Bennevis is 4387, or, by other accounts, ^o. Wham, or Wharnfide,
in Yorklhire, was eftimated at 4050. . '<;leborough at 5280 feet. A
late accurate meafiirement has, however, reduced this latter to 2380 feet,
and probably Wharnfide ought alfo to be diminiihed in the fame pro-
portion.

Evc;n at the prefent day, the geography of fome parts of New Holland
is better underllood than that of fome parts of Great Britain. There is
not even a feparate map of the Enghfh rivers, though France fet an
example of tliis kind, a century and a half ago ; nor has there been any
attempt to delineate the chains of mountains in England. The imper-
feftlon of, the matorials mull therefore apologize for any errors or deiefts
in tlie fubfequent flight iketch- The mountains of Cheviot may be faid
to form a regular ridge, running from the foulh-weft, where they join
thofe of Gallo-way to the north-eaft. But there is a central ridge which
pervades England from north to fouth, beginning at Geltfdale foreft, 14
miles S. E. of Carlifle, and paflingon the well of Durham and Yorkfliire,
where it contains mines of coal and lead. The chief elevations, fuch as
Kolton-fell, Stanmore, Widehill-fell, Wildboar-fell, Bow-fell, Home-fell,
Binihill, 5cc. Sec. arife on the weftern limits of Yorkfliire. Cumberland
and Weftmoreland prefent many detached moimtains, Skiddaw, &x. which
can hardly be reduced to any (lifting arrangement ; but thofe ofXraven,
in the Well Riding of Yorkfhlre, as Wharnfide, Ingleborouj^h, and
Pennigent ; and Pendle, .on die eail of' Lancafter, belong to the jcentral
chain which proceeds fouth, through Derbyfliire, (till abounding with
minerals and natural curiofitiesj buthereit fceinsto terminate, fpreadmg
a little into Qlhefhire^ A central chain of fmaller elevation may be
traced in a y.igzag line, to near Salilbury, with two divergiuj and irr^
gular branches on the eall, one towards Norfolk, another into Kent,
v.liile a third runs fouth-weft into Cornwall. To the firft belong the hills
of Qogmagog, in Ciimbridgelhiro, &c. to the fecond the hills of Hamp-
fliire, Surrey, and Kent. Another upland trnft of confiderable elevation,
called the Chiltern- hills, extends from Tring in Hertfordlhire, to Henley
ill Oxfordfliire. Malvern hil's, in Worcefterlhire, deviate from the cen-
tral ridge, while thofe of Cotfwold, in Gloucefterfliire, may be regarded
as a continuation of it. The bins of Mendip. Polden, Sedgemoor,
Blackdown, in iSomerfetlhire ; the Tors and Wilds of Dartmoor, in
Devon ; and the hills and upland downs of Cornwall, extend this chain
to the I^and's End? and after pafling this lall rocky province, it expires
in the iflands of Scilly.

Wales is a country abundant in mountains, efpeciaUy the northern pro-
vinces ; but their orology jremains indeterminate, and it would require the
adlual furvey of an experienced engineer to reduce them to chains or
groupes. To begin with the noftli, Snowdon commands the firft atten-
tion, a mountain of eminent heiv^ht and fame. The top is called Y Widdfa,
or the confpicuous, forming abnoll a point, and prefenting a view of the
county of Chellcr, the mountains of Yorkfliire, part of Scotland and
jLrcland, and the illcs of Man and Anglefey*.

,? « MMtin I-

* Pennant's Junrnry to London, p. 170*

E 4 ■ .. - .

■ ^ ^ * -■?! >'*

The

I«

ENGLAND.

The ftone that compofes it is petrofilex and argillaceous fchiftus, large
coarfe crvftals are often found in the fiflures, and very frequently cubic
pyritae, the ufual attendants on Alpine trafts. From Snowdon, a line of
mountains extends by the fea to Pbnlimmon, a boundary of North Wales,
vrhence iffues the noble rivers Severn and Wye. Of thefe hills, Urrou
Seth, Caer Idris, and Moel Vadiau, are the moft memorable. The hills
on the eaft of North Wales are far from attaining fuch confiderable eleva-
tion, and gradually decline to thehillsofShropfliire, of which the Wrekin
IS one of the moft noted.

A chain proceeds due fouth to near Cardiff in South Wales ; it is of
far inferior height, and a fmall branch diverges to the weft, confifting of
Cwm Cothy, Mynydd, Carreg, Brilley, and Cwm Kcrrun-hills. On the
eaft of South Wales are the hills of Herefordfliirc, the Black Mountain,
Cufop-hill, Hargeft, Stockley-hill, &c.

In the northern and wreftern mountains and hills, chalk is unknown,
vrhile it forms a chief material of thofe of the fouth and eaft. An eminent
naturalift obferves, that a line drawn from Dorchefter, in the county of
Dorfet, to the county of Norfolk, would form a boiuidary of the great
chalky ftratum which interfefts the kingdom, none being found in any
quantity to the north or weft of that line*. The northern mountains are
moftly compofed of limeftone, fandftone, (late, or fchiftus, with mines
of lead or coal ; thofe of Derbylhire prefent vaft mafles of limeftone,
interfered with thick veins of toadftone, and numerous foflils and mine-
rals, the confideration of wliich is referved for a future article.. The
fummit of Skiddaw prefents white fhivery flate, or argillaceous fchiftus ;
but fome of the Weftmoreland mountains contain filiceous fchiftus ; and
it is probable that granite may exift in thofe of Cheviot. The vaft bafe of
Ingleborough, near 30 miles in circuit, confifts of limeftone ; on the
eaft fide full of fhells to near the fummit, whi9h is of grit and fandftone-.
flag ; the foflils, black and brown marble, thin flate, near Ingletou, rotten
ftone, or tripoli, and fome lead oref .• And fuch is this chain to its ter-
mination ; while further to the fouth the eafterly elevations are of chalk;
and thofe on the weft, as Mendip hills in Somerfetfliire, are wholly cal-
careous. The granite begins at Dartmoor in Devonfhire, and continues
through Cornwall, where it occurs of various colours, the grey granite,
or moor-ftone j the red, or oriental ; tlie white, the yellow, and the
blueifli, or pigeon-coloured ;{:. Near the Lizard and Mullion are rocks
of Terpentine and fteatites, together with a dccompofed granite, which is
iimilar to the petlmfi of China, and applied to the fame purpofes iu the
manufa6lure of porcelain.

The Welfli mountains abound in flate, horn-ftone, arid porphyry,
■with large maffes of quartz. The Wrekin, about ten miles eaft of
Shrewft)ury, is chiefly compofed of reddifli chert, or petrofilex, with
filiceous fand-ftone, bafalt, and a kind of granite ||. The great coal
diftrid of Coalbrookdale refts on indurated clay, while that near Briftol
is accompanied by black free-ftone, and even the calcareous freeftone
near Bath is interfperfed with numerous veins of coal. The Malvern
hills, on the S.W. of Worcefterfliire, run N. and S. about ten miles,
and afford many granitic rocks with chert and hornblende flate J. Thefe
few notices muft fuffice on the compofition of the Engliih mountains.

* Pennant's Journey from Chelter to London, p. 214.

•f- Guide to the Lakes, 265, 367.

J Pryce's Mineralogy of CornwalL Maton's Weftern Tour, &c.

(1 Townfon's Trads, p. 163.

§ Ibid. ai6.

afubJ«A

ENGLAND.

a fubje£l which only begins to attradl the attention which its curiofity
deferves.

Forests.] To the reader of poetry the vfordforefi conveys the idea
of a region replete with thick and tall woods, interfperfed with romantic
lawns and murmuring rivulets. But in England a foreft is fometimes bare
of trees, or not unfrequently only prefents a few withered oaks ; and
the term is even applied to upland downs and heaths. Many of the fo-
refts were, even in the Anglo-Saxon times, efteemed royal dcmefnes ;
but the Norman monarchs were fo. much addifted to the cliace, that up-
wards of fixty foretts at one time appertained to the crown ; of which
the chief now remaining are the forefts of Dean, in Glor.cefterfliire ;
Sherwood, in Nottinghamfhire ; Windfor, in Berkfhire ; and the Newr
Foreft, in Hampfliire. The royal forefts conftituting fo large a part of
the kingdom, fubjeft to peculiar regulations, many grievances arofe, till
the Barons exadled from Henry III. the foreft charter ; in which fevcral
defpotic laws were revoked, and more equity extended to the neigh-
bouring proprietors and tenants.

General Sketch of British Botany.] Among the numerous
fpecies of vegetables which are natives of Britain, icarcely any are
adequate to the fuftenance and cloathing of man. Our frequent rains,
our blafting winds, and the fcanty portion to which we are ftinted of
the light and heat of the fun, deprive us entirely of thofe vegetable
treafures, which, in the tropical climates, offer themfelves in overflowing
exuberance, to fatisfy the wants and luxurious defires of their human
inhabitants. The never-failing verdure of our plains and hillS, covered
with a rich carpet of grafles and papilionaceous plants, ihews how admi-
rably our country is qualified for the fupport of graminivorous quadru- •
peds ; and we find accordingly that our ancient forefts abounded in ftags
and roe-deer, as our cleared and cultivated lands do now with (heep and
cattle.

The Flora, of Britain, though it cannot boaft the moft fplendid and
exquifite of vegetable productions, yet contains as great a variety of ge-
nera %nd fpecies as any other country of equal extent. The inveftiga-
tion of indigenous plants is continually carrying on here with increafing
ardour, and every year brings new acceffions to our crowded ranks of
native vegetables. •

The hrft for importance and variety is the family of grasses.
Almoft every part of the country that is not under tillage is principally
covered with grafs. Under almoft all the differences of foil and fitua- ^
tion, we find the chief covering of the richeft, as well as of the moft
barren trafts, made up for the moft part of thefe plants ; to thefe we are
indebted for the luxuriant verdure of our paftures, for the clofe velvet
carpeting of our downs and fheep-walks, and the more fcanty cloathing
ofour mountainous diftridls. Twenty-feven genera, and a hundred ana
ten fpecies of grafs, are natives of our ifland, moft of them of common
occurrence in Situations where they are found at all. None of them have
been proved to be poifonous, either to man or beaft ; on the contrary,
whether frefh or dried, they furnifli a grateful food to all our domeftic
cattle. The moft important graffes in meadows and paftures are the
meadow fox-tail grafs ; two or three fpecies of hair-grals, and meadow-
grafs ; the cock's-foot fefcue, and oat-grafs. Other fpecies are natives
of marfhes and wet places ; thefe are generally the largeft and moft luxu-
riant J and if ;n quality they be fomewhat inferior to the preceding, yet
the defcfl is probably more than compenfated by the quantity of herbage
that they fupply. Light fandy foils, efpecially the flat parts of the
eaftern and fouthern coafts* abound in gralTes that are hardly to he met

with

ENGLAND.

with in the interior of the ifland ; the herbage of thefe affords a coarfe
and fcanty pailure, and they are eminently diftinguifhed from their kin»
dred fpecies by the length and ftrength of their creeping-roots. The
inhabitants of Skey> and the other weftern iflands of Scotland, manu.
faAiire them into durable ropes ; and, vvJiile growing, they ferve the
very important purpofe of binding together the loofe fand, which other-
wife would be drifted far up the country. Upon the fides and fumniits
of cur mountains are fbund a few graffcs that do not appear elft^whcre.

mixed with fonie others of more grneral occurrence ; as, however,

tliefe bleak and elevated fituatious, covered with fuow for forae months
in the year, and fhrouded in clouds for the principal part of the remain-
der, it would be fcarcely poifible for thefe plants to bring their feeds to
niUurity, we obferve in them a wife and ftriking deviation from the com-
mon courfe of nature. Like tae roil of their tribe, they throw up flower-
ing ilems and liear blofToms j but thefe are fucceeded not by feeds, but
ly bulbs, which in a fliort time vegetate, and are already furniflied with
a leaf and roots before they fall to the ground: all the viviparouykgraffes,
except one (Feftuca vivipara), if tranfplanted to a lower and warmor
fltuatbn, accommodate themfelves to their new chmate, luid produce
feedt. Befides thefe there are others of a more hardy couftitution,
■which appear to be theirue natives of the mountains, and multiply their
fpecies by feed in the ufual way*.

Nearly allied to the graifes in general hahit, are a number of fpecies,
natives of moors, bogs, and pools ; thefe ferve to give confiitency to the
deep mud or peat in which they are rooted, and, when young, afford a
coarfe pafture to flieep and cattle ; feveral of them are nfed for matting,
thatching, and for chair bottoms. The ftately Typha (bull rufh) is one
of the principal ornaments of our fens and negle(fted pools, and the fe-
veral fpecies of cotton-grafs enliven many a dreary mile of bog, by their
gracefully pendant tufts of fnowy white.

The Leguminous, or papilionaceous plants, fo called from their winged
bloifoms, form a very important diviJion in Britifh botany. The bcrbaf;c
of all when frcfh, and of many when dry, is a moft grateful f6od to
horfes, cattle, and fheep ; and feveral of them, as the clovers and vetches,
are largely cultivated for this purpofe. Many of this clafs are climbers,
and adoni our thickets and hedges with elegant feftoons of bloffoms and
foliage. Almoll all the Enghih pa])i]ionaceou8 plants flourilh bed in
light calcareous foils, either rocky or fandy ; and fome of them, as the
lady's finger, and fantfoin, may be reckoned certain indications of chalk
or lime-ftone.

Tlie umbi.'lliferous plants form another large clafs in the natural ar.
rangemcnt of Britifh vegetables, confifling of about fixty fpecies. The
roots and feeds of thofe kinds which grow on dry, lignt foils, are frc
quently aromatic ; thofe that are natives of marfhes and moift meadows,
are, for the moll part, in a greater or lefs degree poifonous. Tho
whole clafs, indeed, is a fufpicious one ; and excepting the fennel and
ci;lery, not a fingle native fpecies is cultivated for the food of nun or
b;aft.

Perhaps the moft fpleudid of all the herbaceous plants are the bulbous
rooted, which, from their general refemblancc to tne lily, have ohtaimd
the name of Liliaceous ; moft of thefe, however, are natives of wannrr
climates ; the fandy deferts about the Cape of Good Hope, and the
fhores of the Indian ocean, produce the moft beautifiti (pccies. Of
thofe which are found wild in England, there are only twenty-eight

* 'I'h* iralt r.'llrd fiorin now attraAi much attention, from iu gruwth in cold and
niiuiliy fuu40ui.a4 I'u thai liay may be made iii Ciiriltinw.

7 fpccie«|

ENGLAND.

{pecies ; and the greater number of thefe are of rare occiurence in »
truly native ftate ; the fpring and autumnal crocas, the fnow-drop, th«
fnow-flake, the three kinds of Narciflus (including the daffodil;, the
fritillary, tulip, and lilly of the valley, are more familiar to us as garden
plants, than as niitives of our woods and paftures. The common ones
of this clafs are Ramfons, a fpecics of garlic, meadow faffron, and the
beautiful and fragrant hare bell, or wild hyacinth, one of the principal
ornaments of our groves and thickets, even at a time when they are pro-
fufe of beauties.

Our native fruits belong, for the moft part, to the clafs of Rofaceous
plants ; fuch as the wood-ttrawberry, the buUace and black-thorn, the
hawthorn, crab, and mountain afh ; the common bramble, or black-
berry, the rafpberry, ftone-bramble, and cloud-berry. The cherry, the
medlar, the fervice, and pear trees, whofe fruit, when wild, is of fo
little aecoimt, and of fuch value when improved by cultivation, belong
alfo to this clafs.

One of the largeil of the natural clafTes of En^lifli vegetable* it thit
of the radiated of compound flowered plants (including about 120 fpe«
cies). It is rather remarkable, that out of fo large a number of plantSt
many of which are very abundant and of great fize, only a fingle one,
the Tragopogon porrifolius (falfafy), (hould be applied to the fufte-
nance of man, and not even a fuigle one (hould be cultivated for the ufe
of cattle } more efpecially as theJLaftuca virofa ( ftrong-fcented lettuce^
is the only fpecics pofTefTed of deleterious properties. Moft of this cla»
have an ungrateful bitter talle, and the fucciilent ones contain a white
milky juice, of an acrid flavour. Of all our native vegetables they are
the commoneft, thriving by ncgleft, and multiplying under perfecution i
the farmer and gardener are unceafingly employed in their deftru£kion,
for they contribute little or nothing to the fupport of man and the larger
quadrupeds ; nor is the beauty of their appearance fuch as to obtain for
tnem a place in the flower garden. The annual kinds, however, pro-
ducing vail multitudes of feeds, and the perennial ones being furniflied
with rong and deeply ftriking roots, there is no fear of their extermina-
tion { they occupy road fides, ditch banks, and all waile places that are
incapable of cultivation, and feem peculiarly devoted to the fuilenance
of the granivordus birds by their feeds, and of numerous tribes of in-
fers by their foliage. The fow thiftle, hawk weed, burdock, thiftle,
cud-weed, coltsfoot, groundfcl, dandelion, daify, and yarrow, are the
moft commonly occurring genera.

Such of our trees and l.*rub8 as h-'.ve not been already mentioned, may
be confidered as forminjr a peculiar clafs, and' one of great importance {
it is naturally fubdivided into the evergreen and deciduous.

The moft valuable of our native evergreens are the box, the pine, the
yew, and the holly ; thofe of fecondury confequence are the juniper and
ivy } the fpurgc laurel ; the cranberry ; and thofe extremely ornamental
plants, the Vaccinium vitis idxa (red whortle berries) ; and ArbutUI
uvaurfi (bear-berry).

The deciduous tiihbcr-trccs that are either aboriginal, or at leaft have
been long naturalized to our foil, are the oak, the cliefnut, and beech,
all of which are niq/l'hraring'treest or produce farinaceous oily nuts, the
favourite food of hogn, and of many graminivorous quadrupeds { the
birch, the alder, the horn beam, the abele, the black poplar, and the
afpen, bearing catkin^ { the fycamore, the maple, and tne afli { the
lime, the elm, and wych hazle. A middle ftution between the timber-
Vtw$ and (hrubtt is occupied by the hazU'» and the uuincrout fpeciet

ENGLAND.

of willow. The pulpy fruit bearing (hrubs are the currant and goofe-
berry, the elder, the barberry, the bilberry, the cornel, or dogwood,
the buckthorn, the guelder rofe, and the mezerion ; the four firft
are wholefome and grateful to the palate, the reft are either infipid or
noxious.

' The ferns coraprife a number of elegant plants that grow in moill,
fiiady, and uncultivated places, the ufcs of which have boon but little
inquired into ; about forty-four fpecies are natives of Britain ; the roots
of moft abound in a mild fwectifli mucilage, which in times of fcarcity
has been reforted to for nutriment ; the larger and commoneft kinds,
fuch as common fern or brakes, are coUedled and burnt for the potafh
which is yielded from their aflies ; the Equifetum hyemale (fliave grafs)
18 much ufed by turners and cabinet-makers, as a fine file to fmooth their
work with.

The laft clafs of Englifli vegetables that we Hiall mention, is that of
the marine Algae, or fea weeds. Between two and tliree hundred fpo-
cies are found upon our own fhorcs ; the more tender and gelatinous
kinds are eaten either raw or boiled ; and the reft on thofe rocky parts
of the cuaft, where the) can be colledled in great quantities, arc burnt
into kelp for tlie ufe of the foap-boilers and glafs-makers.

ZooLOCiY.3 Mr. Pennant, in his Britilh Zoology, has treated this
fubiedl at due extent, and with his ufiial ability. The nature of this work
will only admit of a few imperfedl notices. Of quadrupeds, that cele.
brated author enumerates twenty genera, from the horfe down to the
feal and bat. The birds extend to rorty-K.Mght, the reptile.) to four, and
the fifh to forty genqra, befides the cruftaceous and fliell iiih.

That noble and ufeful animal,, the horfe, is found in England of many
mingled breeds, while moft other kingdoms produce only one kind*. Our
race-horfes defcend from Arabian ftallions, and the genealogy faintly ex-
tends to our hunters. The great ftrength and fize of the En^lirti draught-
horfes are derived from thofe of Gcnnany, Flanders, and Holftcin ; and
other breeds have been fo intermingled, that native horfes may be found
adapted to every purpofe of pomp, plcafure, or utility. Thofe of Yorkr
ihire arc particularly celebrated for their fpirit and beauty ; and tlie
grooms of that county are equally noted for their (kill in the manage-
ment of this valuable animal.

The iiidigenous horned cattle arc now only known to exift in Ncid-
wood foreft, in StafTordfhire ; and at Chillingham caftle, in Northum-
berland* They are long-legged and wild like deer, of a pure wliite
colour, with black mu/.zles, ears, and tails, and a ftripe of the fame
l»ue along the back. The domefticated breeds of our cattle arc a^molt
as various as thofe of our horfes ; thofe of Wales and Cornwall are fniall,
while the Lincolnfhire-kind derive their great fi/.e from thofe of Hoi-
ilein. In the North of England we fnid Kylies, fo called from the dif.
tridt of Kyle, in Scotland ; in the South we fnid the elegant breed oi
Guernfey, generally of a light brown colour and fmall fr/.e, but re-
markable for the richnefa of their milk. Of late years Mr. Bakewell,
and others, have brought the breeding of cattle and iheep to u regular
fyftem, but to the great injury of good beef and mutton.

The number and value of fheep in England may be Judged from the
ancient ftaple commodity of wool. Of this molt ufeful animal fcveral
breed* appear, generally denominated from their particular counties or
tliflridti ; thofe uf Hcrefui'dlhire, Devonfhire, and Cotfwuld downs, arc;

* Pennant '1 Zoology, vol. it p. 1,

noted

•'A

ENGLAND.

noted for fine fleeces, whfle the Lincolnftiire and Warwickftiire kind are
remarkable for the quantity. The Teefdale breed of the county of Dur-
ham, though lately negle£ied, continue to deferve their fame. The wool
is beautiful, but the length of their legs leffens their value in the eyes
of the butcher. The mutton of Wales, on the contrary, is efteemed,
while the wool is coarfe, yet employed in many ufeful and falutary ma-
iiufaftures.

The moft laudable exertions have lately been made by the Board of
Agriculture, and by individuals, for the improvement of the Englifh
fleece.

The goat, an inhabitant of the rocks, has, even in Wales, for the moft
part, yielded to the more ufeful (heep ; that country being, like Scot-
land, more adapted to the woollen manufacture. The breeds of fwine
arc various and ufeful.

England alfo abounds in breeds of dogs, fome of which were cele-
brated even in Roman times ; nor have their modern defcendants, the
inaftiff and bull-dog, degenerated from the fpirit and courage of their
anceftors.

Of our favage animals the moft fierce and deftruitivc is the wild cat,
which is three or four times as large as the domellic, with a flat broad
face, colour yellowiih white, mixed with deep grey, in ftreaks running
from a black lift on the back ; hips always black, tail alternate bary of
b!ack and white ; only found iu the moft moiintainous and W<)ody parts.
The wolf has been long extinft, but the fox abounds.

The chief of o\ir birds of prey arc, the great eagle, idly called the
;joldcn, fomctimes found on Snowdon j the black eagle has appeared in
Derbyftiire ; the ofprey, or fea eagle, fecms extinft in England. The
peregrine falcon breeds in Wales j and many kinds of hawks in Engl?.nd.
An enumeration of the other birds would be fupcrfluous. The nightin-
jrale, one of the moft celebrated, is not found in North Wales, nor any
wh'.reto the north, except about Doncafter, where it abounds; nor does
it travel fo far weft as DcvonHiirc and Cornwall *. Our poultry feem to
ori;jinate from Alia ; our peacocks from India ; our pheafants from
Colchis J tiirkies from North America ; the guinea-fowl are from
Africa. Our linalli ft bird is the uolden-crefted wren, which fports on
the higheft pine trees; and our Targcft the buftard, fome of which
weigh twcnty-five pounds, and are found in the open countries of the
fotitti and call. The moft uA'ful of our water-fowl is the mallard, or
wild-duck, which is chiefly caught in the fens of Lincolnfhirc ; the num«
bcrs fent to the capital ahnoft exceed credibility.

The reptiles are fro^s, toads, fcvcral kinds of lizards : of our ferpents^
the viper alone is venomous ; other kinds are, the fhakc, fomctimcs found
four feet in length ; and the blind-worm, fcldom cxoccding eleven inches.

Of fifh, the whale but feldom appears near the Englilh coafts ; the

iorpcfs, and others of the fume genu;;, are not uncommon. The baflc-
ig fliark appears off the fliorca of Wales. Numerous are our edi-
le fea fifh. Some of the moft celcbrAtod arc the turbot, dorcc, foal,
cod, plaice, fmelt, and mullet. The cojifumption of herrings ar.d
fiackarel extends to moft parts of the kingdom ; but pilchards are con*
fined to the Cornifh coafts. Our chief river fifli are the falmon and the
trout, wliich arc brought from the northern parts in prodigious ni:m-
bcrs, generally packcu in ice. It is faid that not Icfs than 30,000 fal-
mon arc brought from one river, the Tweed, to London, in the courfe

• rcimmt* D. Z. i. jdDi.

ENGLAND*

of a feafon. The lamprey is chiefly found in the SeTerii) the charr ii»
the lakes of Weftmoreland.

The lobfter is found on moft of the rocky coafts, particularly off Scar,
boroush; but there is a great fupply from the Orkneys, and the
Enelim oyilers maintain then- Roman reputation. The green, from Col.
chefter in Eflex, and the juicy white, from Milton in Kent, have the
chief reputation.

Mineralogy.]] It feldom or never happens that countries, abundant
in the production of agriculture ihould at the fame time, prefent an
opulent mineralogy. Yet England is far from being deficient in this
refpedt.

The tia mines in Cornwall have been already mentioned ; and they are
■ot only venerable from their antiquity, but air, it is fuppofed, tlie richeft
of the kind in the world. That kind of filver termed by mineralogiftg
horn ore,'is alfo found in that diftrift ; but the profound fccrecy obfervcd
in working it forbids any inveftigation of the amount. The Huel rock
boafts of what is called bell-metal ore ; and of wolfram.

Cornwall alfo produces copper at Redruth, Alftone, and the Land's
End. The fame metal is found in Yorkfliire and Staflbrdfiiire ; but no
where in fuch abundance as in the Parrys moimtain, in the north-weft of
Anglefea*. Inftead of dcfcending in veins through various rocky ftrata,
the ufual form of metallic ores, it here forms a prodigious heap, and is
worked in the manner of a quarry. The mountain is almoft bare of
fhrubs or grafs, and is covered with aluminous ftate, under which in grey
chert, is the ore, being chiefly the yellow fulphuret, of very variable
richnefs. ITiis valuable mine was difcovered about thirty years ago.

Lead is found in the Mendip hills, Somerfetfliirc; which alfo produce
calamine and manganefe. The lead mines in Derbyshire are well known,
not only for that metal, but for the beautiful veins of fluor which accom.
pany it, and which is manufaAured into feveral ornamental articles. In,
general, the northern central ridge of mountains abounds with lead ore.
The lead mines of Allton, on the eafteni verge of Cumberland, employ
about iioomen.

No metal is fo widely difTufcd, through the globe as iron ; and England
■ot only contains excellent mines, but excels all nations in the variety of
fiibrication. The moft remarkable mines of iron arc thofe of Coalbrook.
dale, Shroplhire, Dean foreft in Gloucefterlhire, with fome in the north
of England, particularly near Ulverftdn, in Lancaihire.

Among the minor metals, zinc, in the form of lapis calaminaris, and
blende, is found in Derbyihire, Denbighfliirc, Cornwall, and other re.
gions. Nickel and arfenic fomctimes appear in Cornwall ; and recently,
what is called mcnachanite. But one of the moft important of this kind
is plumbago, or black lead, which is found in the ridge of Borrodale, near
Kefwic, in Cumberland ; the mine is only opened at certain intervals of
time.

Gold has been difcovered in Tarious quarters of England ; but the metal
has never recompenfed the labour and expence. The real gold mines of
England are thofe of coal, found in the central, northern, and weftern
parts, but particularly in the northern, around Newcaftle. The coal> of
Whitehaven and Wigan are more pure ; and the cannel coals of Lanca*
flkire are fo beautiful, that they are fufpeded bv fome to have confti.
tuted the ga^atett or jet, which the ancients alcribed to Britain. A
lingular fpe«ies of coal ii found in Bovey lieath, Devonftiire, refemblipg

• Aikia'i Walci, 1J3.

wood

ENGLAND.

wood impregnated with bituminous matter. Turf, or peat, is common,
even in Hampfliire, and other fouthern counties.

The mines of rock fait, in Chefhire, muft not be omitted. They ap»
pear to have been known to the Romans. Leland has defcribed them ia
the time of Henry VIII. ; nor were they unknown even in the Saxoa
periods. Thofe of Northwich are tlie mod remarkable : at Namptwich
and Middlewich are only fait fprings : and others occur at Droitwich, in
Worceilerfliire, and Wefton, in Staffordihire. The immenfe mines on tlie
foiitli iide of Northwich were difcovered about the beginnbg of this cen-
tury. The quarries, with their pillars and cryftal roof, extending over
many acres, prefent a beautiful fpeftacle ; the ftratum offalt lies under a
bed of whitifli clay, at the depth of about forty yards. The firft ftratum
is about twenty yards thick, fo folid as to be blafled with gunpowder >
this fait refembles brown fugarcandy. Next is a bed of hard ftone, under
which is a fecond ilratum of fait, about fix yards thick ; in fome parts
brown, in others as clear as cryftal. The Witton pit is circular, io8 yarda
In diameter, the roof fupported by twenty-five pillars, each containing
294 folid yards of rock fait ; the whole covering near two acres of land.
The annual produce of rock faltat Northwich has been eftimated at 65 ,000
tons ; of which about two thirds ufed to be exported to Flanders and
the Bahic*.

Marbles, and free-ftone, or fine limeftone, of various colours and tex-
tures, alfo occur ; the moil celebrated of the latter are thofe of Port-
land; Furbeck, &c. Fine alabafler appears in Dcrbylhire ; fullers-eartb
in Berklhire, and fome other amnties.

MiNEiiAL WATKRs.] Noris England lefs produAfve of mineral waters^
ot various properties and dt-fcriptions. Thofeof Bath have been celebrated
ilnce the Roman times. Next to that place of faOiionable refort may be
mentioned the hot-wells of Briftol, thofe of Tnnbridge in Kent, and of
Buxton and Scarborough in the North. Thofe of Cheltenham in Glou-
cefterlhire have been elleemed beneficial in fcorbutic cafe« • but to enmnf-
rate the fprings of inferior note would be infinite} as chalybeat wells, at
Icaft, muft occur in almoft every county, and new waiters are daily fturtin^
into celebrity.

Natural cimiosiTiRs.] Among the natural curiontics, thofe of
DerbyHiire have always been efteemed the nioft memorable. Hobbes and
uthcrs have long 'fince celebrated the wonders of the Peak, a mountaiti
not equal in height to thofe of Wales, or the more northern part of
England, but perfomted with fuch vertical chafras, and fuch furprifing
caverns, as have dcfervcdly excited admiration.

Other remarkable caverns are found in the northern ridge of Englifli
mountains. In the vale of Kingfdale, on the weftern extremity of York-
fhire, is Yordas cave, which prefent s a fubterraneous cafcade. But the
moft noted is Wethercot cave, not far from lugleton. It is furrounded
with trees and ftirubt, is in form Uke a lo/.enge, divided by an arch of
limeftone { pafling under which you behold a large cafcade, faUing from
a height of more than twenty yards ; the lengtli m tliis cave is about futy
yards, the breadth thirty.

The lakes of Cumberland form another grand fcenc of attrafkion : but
it would be idle to attempt td dcpiA, in a fe^ words, beauties whickhavc
been defcribed by fo many authors, and particularly by the glowing pen-
cil of a Gray. Suffice it to ubfcrve, that tlte three moil celebrated lakct

* rtnn«nt*f 7oumey from Cb«(\«t t« LonJon, f, iC> Cough's C'n-dcH, u. 436.
Aikio t MsnciitfttCj 427.

«re

ENGLAND.

are thofe of Cbnifton, Windermere, and Derwent. The beauties of the
firft have been compared to the delicate touches of Ciaude ; the noble
fce?ie8 of the fecond, to thofe of Pouflin ; while Derwent has much of the
wildnefs of Salvator Rofa : but moft travellers efteem Ulfwater to be
the moft truly fublirfe.

The mountainous regions of Wales may well be fuppofed to prefent
many natural curiofities ; and the Parrys mine in Anglefea is in itfelf a
furprifing objeft. The tatarafts in Cumberland are rivalled by a remark-
able fall of the Tees, on the weft of the county of Durham, over which is
a bridge fufpended by chains, feldom pafled but by the adventurous
miners ; nor muft Afgarth force, in Yorkfliire, be pafled in filence.

The fubmarine relics of a foreft, on the coatt of Lincoln(hire, may be
defervedly clafled among the moft remarkable natural curiofities. On the
N. W. fide of the Mendip hills is a conliderable cavern, at the bottom of
a deep ravine, near the little village of Berrington, or Burrington. Here
are a number of human bones, gradually incorporating with the lime-ftone
rock ; there being a continual dripjyct'; from the rooiand fides, which de-
pofits a ftaladtitic fediment on the bones. Several nodules contain perfeft
human flcuUs. At the farther end, where the height is about fifteen feet,
there is a large conic ftalaftite, wliich nearly meets a pillar riling from tlie
floor. This cave was difcovered in 1 796 and as the matter increafes fo
faft, it is conjeftured tliat it would fooii have been clofed up*. Hence
it is probable that thcfe- bones are of no remote antiquity, and may
perhaps be the remains of fome wretches wlio had here taken flicltcr
from the cruelty of JefFeries, after the infurredlion of Monmouth.

at 20,000
1781, St.
was killed
valour beii

ENGLISH ISLES. .' . v : . -

In the Southern, or Enghih Channel, firft appears the Ifle of Wight,
by the Romans called FeSllsy by the Saxons Vihtlond, of an oval form,
about twenty miles in length, and twelve in breadth. This ifle is fertile
and beautiful, and decorated witli many pifturefque villas ; the principal
haven is that of Welt Cowes. The chief mineral produd^s are pipe clay,
and fine white fand, for the fabrication of pure glafs ; and at Alum
Bay, on the north lide of the Needles, are found confiderable quantities
of native alum f. One of the moft remarkable buildings is Carifljrook
caftle, where Charles I. was imprifoned ; it was built foon after the
conquell, as appears from the book of Doomfday. The lofty white
rocks ftyled the Needles, feem to have been disjoined from the wcIUtii
extremity of the ifle by the violence of the waves. There were formerly
three ; but about the year 1782, the talleft, which rofe about 120 feet
above tl^e low-water mark, was overthrown, and totally difappenred |.

At t\t diftance of about feventy miles from Wight, to the S. W. arifcs
the little ifle of Alderney, off the Cape la Hogue ; which is afterwards
followed by the more important ifles of Jerfey and Guernfey ; Sark being
a fmall ifle interpofed between the two latter. Jerfey, the chief, is
about twelve miles in length, and fix in breadth, a well watered and fer-
tile ifland, producing excellent butter and honey. The winters are
milder, but more windy than thofe of England. The northern fide of
the ifland is high, but the fouthern fubfides into pleafant vales, covered
with orchards. The remarkable places are the two towns of St. He-

• Tranfiid. of the Linnxan Society, vol, v.
i Worllcy's Ifle of Wight, p. »74.

I Cough's Camden, L 143.

•Gu
t Got

lier

ENGLAND.

iter dnd St. Aubin, both {landing on a bay, opening to the fouth ; and
the caftle of Mont Orgueil. The inhabitants of Jerfey are computed
at 20,000, of whom 3006 are capable of bearing arms. In January
1 78 1, St. Heher was ifurprifed by 800 French, under Rullicourt, who
was killed, while Major Pierfon fell on the fide of the Englifli ; his
valour being commemorated by paintings and prints, and by a handfome
monument in the church of St. Helier. Guernfey is a verdant iflc,
though the foil be hilly, and barren of wood. The only town is that of
Port St. Pierre*. Alderney is a fmall ifle, with a town, and about
1000 inhabitants in all. Sark has about 300 inhabitantsf .

Returning to the Enghfli fhore, we firft defcry Eddiftone light-houfe,
beat by all the fury of the weftern waves. This edifice has repeatedly been
overthrown ; but the prefent ereAion, by Mr. Smeaton, compofed of valt
mafles of ttone, grooved into the rock, and joined with iron, promifes
alike to defy accidental fire, and the violence of the ocean, though the
waves fometimes wafh over the very fummit in one flieet of foam.

About thirty miles to the weft of the Land's End appear the Ifles of
Scilly, which have been idly deemed the Calfiterides of the ancients. This
clufter is faid to confift of 145 ifles, covered with grafs or mofs, befides
innumerable dreary rocks. The lai"^eft ifle is that of St. Mary, which is
about five miles in circuit, and has a caftle and garrifon : inhabitants about
600. That of St. Agnes is rather fertile : inhabitants about 300. The
whole inhabitants of the Scilly Ifles are computed at about 1000. The
cattle and horfes fmall ; but ftieep and rabits thrive well. Confiderable
quantities of kelp are prepared amid thefe rocks ^.

On turning to the north, firft appears the little ifle of Lundy, fituated
in the Briftol Channel, about three miles long, but not a mile in breadth,
with about 500 acres of good land, fome rivulets, and a caftle. It was
formerly a noted retreat for pirates.

Some fmall ifles lie off" the Welch coaft of Pcmbrokefliire and Cnornar-
von, fuch as Caldy, Skomar, Bardfey, and others : but the ifle of Angle-
La deferves more attention, being the Mona of Tacitus. Anglefea is about
twenty-five miles in length, and eighteen in breadth. The chief towns
arc Newburgh, Beaumaris, and on the weftern extremity, fronting Ire-
land, Holyhead. This ifle is fo remarkably fertile, that the Welfli have
emphatically ftyled it the mother of Wales ; and of late has been alfo pro-
ductive of rich copper found in the Parrys mountain, in the N. E. part of
the ifland, near Amlwch, of which an account has been given in treating
of the Englifli minerals. Beaumaris is a large town, with a caftle built by
Edward I. Newburgh is a corporation of fmaller moment. Holyhead,
originally a fifliing toAvn, has become of confequence, by the Irifli packets
which pafs daily, the average time being twelve hours.

The laft Englifli ifle worth mention is that of Man ; it is about thirt
miles in length, and fifteen in its greateft breadth. In the midft is a high
mountain, called Snafel. The chief mineral produftions are black mar-
ble, flate, lime ttone, lead, copper, and iron. Man is alfo well ftored with
black cattle, and flieep ; and the population has of late years greatly in-
creaied. This ifle was fei/ed by the Norwegians, along with tiie Wefteni
Ifles of Scotland, in the ninth century ; and remained under tlicfe lords
an independent kingdom, till the thirteenth century, when it fell with
thofe iflands to Alexander III. of Scotland. The Scots were expelled in
the reign of Edward II., but the title continued dubious ; for in he 15th

^ • Guernfey is chiefly remarkable for iti fmall brted of cattle,
f Oough'i Camden, iii. 753. J Ibid. iii. jsi

tod

SCb-TLAND.

and 1 6th centimes, Alexander and John, dukes of Albany, ftyledthem-
felves lords of Man, and interwove the arms in their heraldry. In the
reign of Henry IV. the kingdom of Man was conferred on the Stanleys^
afterwards earls of Derby, and latterly paffed to the family of Athol, by
BiaiTiage. This petty fovereignty has been fince purchafed, and annexed
to the Englidi crown. The chief places are Douglas and Caftletown, and
there are fome confiderable villages.

There are alfo fome fmall illands off the eaftern coaft, as Lindisfarn,
arid Coquet ifland, near the mouth- of the river oT that name, in Nor-
thumberland. The Ifle of Thanet is now joined to the land of Kent ;
but Sheppey remains a pleafaut and intercfting ifle.

SCOTLAND.

\ ' CHAPTER I. ' ' '

HISTOniCAL GEOGRAPHY.

^'ami's. — Extent. — Original Population. — Progrejftve Geography. — fttf.

I or leal Epochs. — ^ntlquitiet.

SCOTLAND was ftrlt difcovered to the Romans by Agricola ; and, in the
works of Tacitus, the northern part of Britain is for the firft time dif-
tinguifhed from the fouthern^ by the fpecial and repeated appellation of
Caledonia, a name faid to be derived from a Cymraig word, fignifying
woodlands, forolls, or perhaps rather a mountainous country ; for the
ancients often blended the ideas of forefl and mountain.

Tiie names CaUdouioy and Caleilonians, continued to be ufed till the
Roman power expired. Bede, the father of Englirtl hiftory, calls the
inhabitants of the country by the name of Piaiy which had alfo been
ufod by the later Roman writers as fynonymous with tliat of Caledonii.
The countrA' he denominates Provincia Pldorumy the province or re-
gion of the Picti.- This new name feems to have been native (Piks, or
Pehts) ; and to have originated from a country fo ftyled, in the fouthof
Norway, whence tliis colony had arrived. The Saxon writers, and
among them king Alfred, called the people Peohts, and the country
Pfcchtlond.

Thefe dilliiiclions continued till the eleventh century* when the new
name of Scotia was taken from Ireland, its former obje&, and applied to
modem .Scotland.

ExrrNT.J Tliat part of Groat Britain called Scotland is about 260
uiiles in length, by about 160 as its greateil breadth ; it extends from
the 55th degree oflatitiido, to more than ^^\. The Superficial contents
have been computed at 27,793 ^R^^re miles, a little exceeding that of
Ireland, aiid conliderably more than l»alf that of England. The po-
pulation being cllimated at 1,600,000, there will be only fifty-feven
inhabitants for every fquare mile, a proportion of about one-third of that
of 1 reliind. This defed of population arifes folely from the mountainoui
u:;ture of the country, ainuuuting perhaps to one4ulfy little fufceptiblt
♦)f cultivatjoii.

DlTISION3*2

SCOTLAND.

new
edto

260
"rom
tenti
It of

po«
[eves

that
bous

tible

Divisions.] The territory of Scotland is unequally divided into
tliiity-three counties, which are as follow, the number of inhabitants
being from the enumeration of 180 1 : i- •

— 46,844 •'
— - 22,609 ' •

— 23,117

— 52,291 • ^

— 3'052

— 74,292

— 71,859

— 11,791

— 8,252

— 26,705

— 35>8o7

— 123,082

— 26,349
i- 99'i27 •

— 126,366

— 93'743

— 6,725

— 10,858

— 50,825

— 20,710

— 17.844

— 122,954

— 29,086

— 30,621

— 78,056

— 84,306

— 22,918

— 146,699

— 8.735

— 5'07o

— 33'682

— 54'597

— 29,211

OnfOiNAL Population.] So far as hiftorical refearches can difcovor,
the orifjinnl population of Scotland confirted of CimbrI, from the Cim-
bric Cherloncl ■. About two centuries before the Chnllu ,1 jera, the
Cimbri feom to liavc been driven to the fouth ut' Sc^ tland by t'.e Cale-
doaians, or Pidti, a Gothic colony from Norway. The Cimbri, a con-
gem-rovis people with the WeWh, continued to hold the country fouth
of the two Firths of Forth and Clyde : but from the former re";ion they
were foon expelled by the Picli, who, in this corner, became fubjc<i:\ for
a time to the Anglo-Saxon kings of Bernicia. On the weft, the Cym-
nig kingdom of Strath Clyde continued till the tenth century, when it
bec.ime lubj' dt to tlie kings of North Britain, who, at the time, ex-
tended th« ir ;uithority, by the pprmilHon of the Eiiglifh monarchs, over
the couiities of Cumberhnd and Wellmoreland, which abounding with
li'lk and fortrefles on th." fouth and call, were little acccflible to the
Eiiglilh power } and while the Danes poifafltid the country to the north

Fa of

• ■

''Orkney — . —

Caithnefs — • mm-

Northern

Sutherland — —

Divifion.

Rofs — —

Cromarty — —
_ Invcrnefs — —

^Argyle — —
Bute — —

Nairn — —

, , »

Murray, or Elgin — -
Banff — —

Aberdeen — — •

Midland

Mearns, or Kincardine —

Diviiion.

Angus, or Forfar —

Perth — —

Fife — —

, » .

Kinrofs — — -

Clackmannan —

t ■■ - ■

Stirling — —

, Dumbarton —

■' ^■■)![*- ,:: '.

'Weft-Lothian, or Linlithgow

■ ' '," u . ■

Mid-Lothian, or Edinburgh

■'\ , ^ '

Eaft-Lothian, or Haddington

-' ^ ' '

Bt^rwick — —

Renfrew — —

Soiithern
Diviiion.

Ayr «. Xvmm-.. , ►.. r-n**-
Wigton — —
Lanark — —

Peebles — ■ —

Selkirk — —

Roxburgh — —
Dumfries — —

^ Kirkudbright —

SCOTLAND.

of the Humber, could yield little revenue or fupport to the Anglo-
Saxon monarchs. From the Pifti originates the population of the Low*
lands of Scotland, the Lowlanders having been, in all ages, a diftinft pec
pie from thofe of the weilern Highlands ; though the Irifh clergy endea-
voured to render their language, w^hich was the moft fmooth and culti-
vated of the two, the polite dialeft of the court and fuperior claffes.
About the year of Chrill 258, the Dalriads of Bede, the Attacotti of
the Roman writers, p:iflcd from Ireland to Argyleftiire, and became
the germ of the Scotifh Highlanders, who fpeak the Irifti, or Celtic
language, while the Lowlanders have always ufed the Scandinavian, or
Gothic.

Proguessive Geography.] The progrcffiye geography of Scotland
is little opulent in materials. In the fccond century we find a map of
North Britain, by Ptolemy ; but he reprefents the Mull of Galloway as
the moil northern promontory of Scotland, and thence bends the country
due eaft, fo tliat all his longitudes and latitudes are fiftitious*. But his
diftribution of tlie tribes which then inhabited Scotland, may be regarded
as tolerably exad. In the centre of the country he places a vaft forcft,
which he calls the Sylva Caledonia, chiefly extending over modern Perth-
Ihire ; an indication that the colonics had fettled on the fhores, and that
the interior part of the country was little known. The Otadeni were
the people of modern Northumberland and Lothian ; the Selgovse extend-
■ ed over Dumfrielhire and Kirkudbright, to the bay of Wigton, while the
Novantse filled modern Wigton f hire, and extended upwards to Ayre-bay,
The fourtli fouthern tribe was that of the Damnii, who poflefTed the cen-
tral region from near the fource of the Clyde, to that of the Erne. On
thenorth-eail; of the Damnii were the Vcnicontes, from the Firth of Forth
to the river Dee, while the Texali held the modern fhires of Aberdeen
and Banff. To the well of them were the Vacomagi, extending from Fort
William to the Caftra Alata, or Invcrnefs. The other tribjes fcarcely
deferve enumeration ; the Cornabii polTefled the moll northern parts of
Scotland, from Dun(by-head to Strathnaver. Four tribes extended along
the north-well, down to Loch Linny ; to the fouth of which are placed
the Epidii, in Argylefiiire, who were divided by Loch Fyn from the Ga-
deni, who held that part to the eall of Argylelhire called Cowal, in the
county of Dumbarton.

After the time of Ptolemy, little information arifes concerning the geo-
grapliy of Scotlaiid, till, after the lapfe of feven or eight centuries, we
find the dawn of tlie prefent names and divifions. ,In the latter Roman
period, tlie province of Valentia embraced that part which was fouth of
the Clyde and Forth ; as for a Ihort fpace, from about A.D. 140 to 170,
the name of Vefpafiana had been imparted to the region extending from
the Forth to Loch Nefs. The remains of Roman roads from the chief
evidence of the firm pofleflion of the latter province.

In the middle ages, the name of Albany had been applied to that part
of Scotland which lies ■on the north of the Firths : and about the year
1200 was written the Defcriptio Albaniae. In the fourteenth century,
Fordarn produced a larger and more precife idea of Scottifh geography.
Harding, who wrote his rhyming chronicle in the reign of Edward IV.,
gives a tolerably exad defcription of Scotland, which he had vifited ; and
fome manufcripts of his work contain a rude map of the country. The
firll engraved map is that publilhed by Bilhop Lefley, with his hillory ;

• For an ingenious exj licstion of this f'cfeft, fee M. GolTellin's letter to Mf. Pinker-
ton, in ihe appendix to tJse KetLncbei fur Ut ScyiLet. Palis, 1804, 8vo.

but

SCOTLAND.

but it abounds with portentous errors, which have been flowly removed.
The atlas publiflied in the laft century does honour to the induftry and
abilities or Pont, and the munificence of Sir John Scott ; and the recent
exertions of Dorrett, Roy, Mackenzie, Huddard, Ainflie, and others,
have contributed to eftablilh fome exaftnefs in- the geographical and hy-
drographical delineation of the country.

Historical Epochs.] i. The original population of Scotland by the
Cimbri, and by the Pifti, forms the firft hiftorical epoch.

2. The entrance of Agricola into Scotland, and the fubfequent con-
flifts with the Romans, till the latter abandoned Britain.

3. The fettlement of the Dalriads, or Attacotti, in Argylelhire, about
the year 258, and their repulfion to Ireland about the middle of the fifth
century.

4. The commencement of what may be called a regular hiftory of
Scotland, from the reign of Druft, A. D. 414..

5. The return of the Dalriads, A. D. 503, and the fubfequent events
of Dal?"iadic llory.

6. The introduction of Chriftianity among the Caledonians, in the
reign of Brudi II. A. D. 565.

7. The union of the Piai and Attacotti, under Kenneth, A. D. 843.

8. The reign of Malcolm III. A. D. 1056 ; from which period
greater civilization began to take place, and the hiftory becomes more
authentic.

9. The extinction of the ancient line of kings, in the perfon of Marga-
ret, of Norway, grand-daughter )f Alexander III., A. D. 1200. Tnis
event occafioned the arbitrary interpofition of Edward I. king of England,
which was the fole fource of the enmity which afterwards unhappily pre-
vailed between the kingdoms,

10. The accefllon of the houfe of Stuart to the Scotifh throne ; a
family which produced mojt ingenious and intelligent, but moft unfor-
tunate princes.

1 1. The eftablifhment of the Proteftant religion, A. D. J560.

12. The union of the two crowns, by the acceflion of James VI. to
the Englifli fccptre, A. D. 1603.

13. The civil wars, and the fubfequent difputes between the Prefby-
terians and indcpendants ; caufes that extinguiflied all found literature in
Scotland, for the fpace of twenty years, A. D. 1640-1660.

14. The revolution of 1688, and the firm eftablilhment of the Prefby-
terian fyftem.

15. The union of the two kingdoms in 1707.

16. The abolition of t!ie hereditary jurifdiftions, 1755, which laid the
firft foundation of the fubfequent profperity in Scotland.

Antiquities,] The monuments oi antiquity belonging to the more
farly epochs, may be confidered in the following order. Of the firil
ci)Ocli, no monuments can exift, except thofe of the tumular kind; and
it is impofTible to afccrtain the period of their formation. The remains
of the Roman period in North Britain chiefly appear in the celebrated
wall, built in the reign of Antoninus Pius, between the Firths of Forth
and Clyde, in the rums of which many curious infcriptions have been
found. Another ttriking objeft of this epoch, was a fmall edifice on
tile ftream of Carron, vulgarly called Arthur's Oven, which feems riglitly
to have been regarded by fome antiquaries, as a fmall temple, dedicated
to the god Terminus,

The Tnoft northerly Roman camp yet difcovcred is that near .he fource
of the river Ytlian, Aberdeenlhire ; the periphery of which is about two

F 3 Engliih

SCOTLAND.

Englifli miles. A fmaller ftation has alfo been obferved at Old Meldnim,
a few miles to the S. E.

Roman roads have been traced a confiderable way in the eaft of Scot-
land, as far as the county of Angus, affording fome evidence of the ex-
iftence bf the province Vefpafiana ; but the chief remains are within the
wall. The fmaller remains of Roman antiquity found in Scotland, as
coins, utenfils, &c. are numerous.

With the fourth epoch may be faid to commence the Pikifh monuments
of antiquity. The tombs it would be difficult to difcriminate from thofe
of the firft epoch ; but as the Caledonian kings, when converted to
Chriftianity, held their chief refidence at lavernels, the Angular hill in its
vicinity, prefcnting the form of a boat reverfed, may perhaps be a monu.
ment of regal fculpture. The places of judgment among, the Gothic
nations, or what are now llyled Druidic temples, Jtre numerous ; and
there is a remarkable one in the ille of Lewis. Some of thcfe monuments
are of fmall circuit, and fuch are fometimes'found at no great dittance
from each other ; as they were not only erected as temples to Odin,
Thor, Freyga, and other Gothic Deities ; but every chief, or lord of a
manor, having jurifdiftion over many fervants and flaves, fuch fmall
courts became places of neceflary awe.

The houfes feem to have been entirely of wood or turf ; but in fome
fpots fingular excavations are found rudely lined with Itone : thefe are
called JVeemsy and it is likely that they were always adjacent to the
wooden refidence of fome chief, and were intended as depofitories of
ftores, &c. tlie roof being too low for comfortable places of refuge.
The Itations and camps of the natives are dillinguiflied by their round
form, while thofe of the Romans belong to the- fquare.

Under the next epoch it would be difficult to difcover any genuine
remains of the l^alriads. The houfes, and even churches, were con-
ftrufttd iu wattle-work : and the funeral monuments were cairns, or
heaps of Itones.

To the fixth epoch may probably belong a chapel or two, ftill re-
maining in Scotland ; but it is probable that thefe facred edifices in
ftone were foon followed by the erection of thofe rude, round piles,
without any cement, called Piks houfes ; yet they may more properly
belong to

The feventh epoch, when the Danes may (hare in the honour of the
ercftior, for fuch edifices huve been traced in Scandinavia. They feem
•to have confiikd of a vaR hall, open to the fl<y in the centre, while the
cavities in the wall prefcni intomniodious reccifes for beds, &c. Thefe
buildings are remarkable, ns difplaying the firlt elements of the Gotliic
caftle ; and the cafUo of Ci. lingfburg, in Yorkfliirc, forms an eafy tran-
fition. The engraved obiliks found at Forres, and in other parts of
Scotland, have been nfcribed to the Danifli ravagers who had not time
for fuch crcftions. They are probably monuments of fignal events,
raifed by t';e king or chiefs ; and as fome are found in Scandiuavia, as
recent as tlie fifteenth century, it is probable that many of the Scotifli
obelifks are far more modern than is generally imagined.

To enumerate the churches niid caules ereded lince the reign of Mah
eolm in. would be infinite. Some of the moll fplendid churches derive
their, foundation from David L, in the twelfth century.

CHAP-

SCOTLAND.

7»

CHAPTER II.

POLITICAL CEOGllAPIIY.

ReUgion.'^EccleJtaflical Geography. — Government. — Laws. — Population^

— Colonies.

■ ■ v

_ -] OINCE the revolution, 1 688i the ecclefiafticalgoverhmeot

JS.EL * J l3 of Scotland, has been of the Prefbyterian form. The

number of parifhes in Scotland is 941*; contiguous parifhes unite in what
is called a prefbytery, of which denomination there are lixty-nuit'. The
provincial fynods, amounting to fifteen, are cf^mpofed of fiveral adjannt
prefbyteries •; but the grand ecclefiaftical court is the gene ral aflembly,
which meets every year, in the fpring j t'^e king appointing a commif-
£oner to reprefent his perfon, while f..i members nominate their modera-
tor, or prefident.

To this ecclefiaftical council laymen are alfo admitted, under the name
of ruling elders, and conftitute about one-third of this venerable body.
This court difcufles and judges all clerical alFairs, and admits of no appeal,
except to the parliament of Great Britain. In general, the Scotifh clergy
deferve the highett praife, as men of enlightened minds, and moderate
condu6^ ; and a fingular proof of the diffufion of talents among them has
recently appeared, in the ilatiftical account of Scotland, publimed by Sir
John Sinclair, in twenty-gr.e volumes ; for there are few parities of which
the account is not ably delineated by the clergyman himfelf.

As whatever eftabli(hment is effected in k free country, oppofition will
always arife, the eftablifliment of the Preftyterian fyftem was, in the fpace
of one generation, followed by the feceflion, which took place in 1732,
The feced^rs being the moft rigid in their fentiments, and animated by
perfecution, foon formed a numerous party.

About the year 1 747, they were tliemfelves divided into two denomi-
nations, called the Burgers and the Anti-Burgers, becaufe the divifiofl
arofe concerning the legality of the oaths taken by tlie burgefles of fome
of the royal boroughs ; the former allowing that the oath is proper, while
the latter objeift ; the former are the more numerous, the number of their
niiniflers being coniputed at about 100, aiid at a medium each has a con-
gregation of about 1000.

Many refpeftable families in Scotland embrace the epifcopal form of the
church of England. The other defcriptions of religious profeffions are
not numerous. There are but few Roman Catholics, even in the remote
Highlands, the fcheme of education being excellent, and generally fup-
ported with liberality.

Ecclesiastical geography.] To delineate the ecclefiaftical geoorra-
phy of Scotland, would be to enumerate its parifhes ; nor are the Pref-
byteries and fynods of fuch account as to influence the fate of the towns
where they affemble. The ancient eftablifliment comprifed two archbi-
(hoprics, thofeof St. Andrew's and Glafgow ; and eleven biflioprics, (that
of Edinburgh having only been eitablifhed by Charles I. ) which, in the
order of antiquity, may be thus enumerated: Galloway (St. Andrew's)
jDunkeld Moray ; five founded by David I. Brechin, Dumblane, Aber-
Aeeiif Rofs, (Glafgow); that of Argyle, or Lifmore was founded

• Stat'ift. Account.

abouf

SCOTLAND.

about the year 1200, becaufe the bifhops of Dunkeld did not fpcak the
Irifli tongue. The biftiops of Orkney, and of the wellcrn iflands, date
from an early period, while tlieir fees were not fubjcd; to the Scotifli
crown.

GovERNMEXT.J The government of Scotland, fince the union, has
• been blended with that of England. The chief diftinftion between the
original conftitution of the two countries was, that Scotland had no
houfe of commons, the parliament, coniUling of all defcriptions, af.
fcmbled in one hall. That enlightened prince, James I., of Scotland,
endeavoured in vain to eftabhfh a houfe of commons, in imitation of that
of England, where he was educated. The moil fplcndid remaining
feature of government in Scotland is the general aflembly. Next to
which may be claffed the high courts of julticc, efpecially that ftylod
the feflion, confifting of a prcfident and fourteen fenators. The
lords of feflion, as they are ftyled in Scotland, upon their promotion
to office, afliime a title, generally from the name of an ellate, by which
they are known and addrefled, as if peers by creation, while they are
only conftituted lords by fupcrior intereft or taUnts. This court is the
laft refort in feveral caufes, and the only appeal is to the parhament of
Great Britain.

It is to be regretted that- the caufes ai;e not dotem'ncd by jury as in
England. #ThejuiHciary court coniills of five judges, who are likewife
lords of feflion : but, with a prefident, Ih'Wl the lord juftice clerk,
as h'> is only underlKjod to n-prcfent tlie formerly great oHice of jullicc
general. This is the fiipreme court in criniirial caufes, which are
determined hy the majority of a jury, and not by the unanimity, as in
England. There is alfo a court of Exchequer, confiiling of a lord
chief b:iron, and four barons : and a high court of admiralty, in which
there is only one judge. The keepers of the gn-at and privy feals, ;nul
the lord regiller or keeper of the records, may alfo be mentioned under
this head.

Laws.] The law of Scotland difl"ers efTentially from that of Enp-
land, bring founded, in a great mcafure, upon the civil law. It partly
confifls of fliatute law ; but many of tlu ancient flatntos never having
been enforced, tlie chief rule of this fort arifcs from the decifions of the
feflion, which are carefully prtferved and publilhed, and aflbrd prece-
dents, generally deemed Unexceptionable. Of common law there is
hardly a trace, while the civil and c;int)n laws may be faid to form thf
two pillars of Scotifln judicature. The modes of procedure have, how-
ever, the advantage of being free from any of tlioie legal fidions which
difgrace the lawr, of fome other couiitriis. The inferior courts are thofe
of the Iherifl's, magiilrates, am! jullics of the peace. Under the heredi-
tary juriidictions happily aboli!hed, the peers and other great men main-
tained a power ahnoll abrohite, over l!i'. ir attrmlanls ar.d followers, fn
that there was no law but the will of the mailer, and the cities alone
couhl be dfcrncd feat, ot freedoi.i.

Poi'LLAilON.") Thi.' popnhition of Scotland in 1755, was compiiteil
at 1,265,000; accdrJiii'^r to tl • documents furnilhed by Sir .1. Sinclair's
ftalillical account, ih'' numhi is in 17';^ were i, 526,^(^2 * ; and by the
government enuineralion in ilioi, the inhabitants aj peartd to amount
to \,^ij(),c6H.

Tlic army, navy, revenues, political import-nice, and relations of
{jcullaud uro now inhparably interiningh d with thoic of England.

\\\. XX. p. 6.C,

CllAW

SCOTLAND.

of Enff-
t partly
liaving
IS «if tiio
d prccc-
tbcrc i"^
'orm thr
f, lu)\v-
s wliicb
n- llioff
hcrcdi-
,tn maiii-
wcrr., fii
lies aluiie

pmputfil

tiiiclair's

by thi-

uuimiiiV

Jilions of
lid.

ICIIAIV

CHAPTER IIL

CIVIL GEOGRAPHY. •

J^anntrs and Cujloms. — Language. — Literature. — Education. — - Ifni-
verfitles. — Cities and Towns. — Edifices. — Inland Navigation. -^Ma-
fiufailures and Commerce.

r^ -, T^HE manners and cuftopis of the Scots

Mavners AND Customs.] J_ ^^^j^ ^^ ^^ ^^,^j^ affimilated with thofe

of the Enghfli. In their religious ceremonies, attending baptifm and
marriages, thfre are variations anfing from the Prefbyterian form which
does not admit of god-fathers or god-mothers, but renders the parents
alone anfwerable for the education of the child. The clergyman doe«
not attend at funerals, nor is there any religious fcrvice, but generally
great decency. Among the lower clafies the funerals are generally far
more numeroiifly attended than in England ; nor is black an mdifpcnfable
colour of drcfs on fucli occafions.

In the luxuries of tlie table the fuperior claffos rival the Englifh ;
ft'veral national dilhcs, formerly ferved up at the beft tables, and origi-
nating from the French cooking, in the reign of Mary, being now vul-
gar or negledlcd ; fuch as the haggis, or hachis ; cock a-leekie, or a
capon boiled down with leeks ; crapped heads, or haddocks Hewed ;
the heads being Huffed with a kind of forced-meat balls, &c. &c. Tiie
diet of the lower clafles pafles in a gradual tranfitioii from the north of
England. The chief food is parich, or thick pottage, formed with oat-
meal and water, and eati-n with milk, ale, or butter ; in a hard lumpy
form it is called Irofc. With this the labourer is generally contented
twice or thrice in the day, with a little bit of meat for Sunday ; nor does
he repine at the bacon of the Engli(h poor, there being a theological an-
tipathy to fwine, which alfo extends to eels, on account of their ferpent-
like form.

The fobrietv of the lower clafTes is in general exemplary ; and the
Scotilh maiuifadurer or labourer, iiiHead or walling his weekly gains
at an ale-houfe, is ambitious to appear with his fainily in decent clothes
on Sundays and other holidays. This may be n-garded as a llriking
charartcrillic of the Scotifli peafantry, who prefer the lailing decencies
of life to momentary gratifications. To this praife may be added, that
of intelligence, arifing from the diirufion tA education, which is fucli, that
tven the miners in the fouth poffefi a circulating library.

The houfes of the opulent hare been long eredled upon the Englifh
plan, which can hardly be exceeded for interior elegance and convenience, t
Ev\Mi tlu' habitations of the poor have been greatly improved within thefe ,'
f.'w years, and inllead of the thatched mud liovi 1, there often appears the
iii'at cottage of Hone, covered with tile or ilatc. '

The drefs of the fuperior clalfis is the fame with that pf the Englil\i.
Tlie gentlemen in the Highlands, efpecially in the time of war, ufe the
IH'culiar tlrefs of that country. Among the other clalfi Sf the Scotifh
bonnet is now rarely perceived, except in the Highlands; it was the
nfual cowring for the liead all over Europe, till toward:^ the end of the **
rixti-iiih century, when the hat, formerly only worn in riding or minting, '
canu' into general nle.

The anujfements of the rich are on a ])aralli'l with tlu)fe t)f the Eng. •
lifli ; but thufc of tlic peafantry have fcveral diverlitai;, which the nadcr-

y may, >

SCOTLAND.

may, perhaps, bed learn from the poems of Burns. That oi curling con.
fifts in rolling large ftones, with iron handles upon the ice, towards a fixed
mark, a favourite and healthy diverfion in the winter. The Englifh
quoits are fupplied by penny Jlanesi round flat ftones, which are tofTed
in the fame manner. Two exquifite poems of Mr Burns, his Halloiveen
and his Cotter's Saturday N'tghtt will convey more information concern.
ing the amufements, fuperftitions, and manners, of the Scotifli peafantry,
than the moft long and animated detail.

Language.] The Scotifh language falls under two divifions, that
of the Lowlands confifting of the ancient Scandinavian dialeft, blended
with the Anglo-Saxon; and that of the Highlands, which is Irifti. The
Lord's prayer, in the moft ancient language of the Lowlaiads, would be
as follows :

I Uor fader quhilk becft i Hevin. 2. Hallowit weird thyne nam.
3. Cum thyne kingrik. 4. Be dune thyne wuU as is i Hevin fva po
yerd. 3. Uor dailic breid gif us thilk day. . 6. And forleit us uor
ikaiths, as we forleit tham quha ilcath us. 7. And leed us na intil tem-
tation. 8. Butan fre us fra evil. Amen.

The iflauds of Orkney were feized by the Norvegians, in the ninth
century, and the inhabitants retained the Noefe language till recent
times, when they began to fpeak remarkably pure Englifh. Chamber,
layne has given the Lord's prayer in their ancient dialed :

1. Favor ir i chimrc. 2. Hellcur ir i nam thite. 3. Gilla cofdum
thite crimma. 4. V\'yn thine mota vara gort o yum fnnia gort i chimrie.
5. Ga VMS da on da dalight brow vora. 6. Firgive vus fuma vora fin
vee firgive findara mutha vus. 7. Lyv us ye i tuntation. 8. Min
delivera vus fro olt ilt. Amen : or^ On fo meteth vera.

In the Erfe, or Irilh, of tlie Higiilands, the fame fupplication runs
thus :

A n' Athair ata air N^amh. i. Gu naamhaichear t Tinm. 2.
Tigt!adh do Rioghachd. 3. Deantliar do Tlioil air an Talamh mar a
nithear air Ncamh. 4. Tabhair dhuinn an diu ar n Aran laitheil.
5. Agus maith dhuinn ar Fiaclia amhuil mar mhaitlunid d'ar luchd fia
chaibh. 6. Agus na leig am buaireadh finn. 7. Ach faor finn o Ole.
Amen.

LiTERATUKE.] Thc literature of Scotland rec»)mpcnfe3 for its recent
origin by its rapid progrefsand extenfive fame. The country that pro,
duced Buchanan in the iixteenth century, could not, in the 12th, boall of
one native writiT.

Y(.t, it muft not be forgotten, that in this dark period, on the facred
ground of Hyona, flourilhi-d feveral refpedlable Iiiflj writers, who |Brc
lillo clafled among the apoflles of nligion and learning in England 5
fuch were Columba, who converiod the northern Caltdouians, and his
biographers, Cuminius and Adomnan, the latter the friend of Bede.
Among the Strathclyde VVclih may be named Patrick, in his turn the
apoflle of Irelaiul.

One of tlie earliell native writers is Thomas of Erceldon, called thp
Rimer, who flouriflicd about the year 1270, and wrote a metrical
romance, called Sir Triftrnm. John Barbour, Archdeacon of Aber-
deen, wrote his poem on the adions of Robert I„ in thc year 1375.
At tlu' fame time flouriflied John Foidiin, the father of Scotiih hiftory.
James f. of Scotland, wrote fome excellent pofms early in the fifteenth
century ; and he was followed by Holland and Henry the Rimer. In
the end of that century arofe Dimbar, the chief of the ancient Srotlfli
poets; and, in the beginning of tiie uext, Gawin Douglas and David

Liiil^ay.

SCOTLAND.

Linfay. The Scotirti mufe continued to warble till the middle of the
feventeenth century, when religious fanaticifm extinguifhed all the arts
and fciencos, but not before Drummond had woven his web of Doric de-
licacy. In more modern times the names of Thomfon, Blair, Armftrong,
IJcatUe, Burns, &c. are univerfally known.

Rude chroniclers continued the chain of events, but hiftory was mute
till Buchanan founded his claffical trumpet. Bifliops Lefley and Burnet
are not without their merit ; but why repeat to the echoes of fame the
ilhiilrious names of Hume and Robertfon.

The other departments of fcicnce are of yet more recent cultivation
in Scotlind ; even theology fecms unknown till the begiiiuing of the
fixteonth century ; and of medicine there is no trace till the feventeenth ;
whii 've can nowhoart of Blair ; and Edinburgh ranks among the firll
mcu c il fchools of Europe. Natural philofophy and hillory were totally
neglcdted till after the Relloration" ; yet Scotland can now produce able
writers in ahnod every branch, and equal progrefs has been made in
mor il philofophy. Among the few departments of literature in which
the Scotifh authors have been unluccefsful, may be named epic poetry,
comedy, and the critical illuftration of the clnflics.

Eorc/VTioN.]] The mode of education purfued in Scotland is highly
laudable, and ti) j idgc from its cfiedls is, p rhaps, the bed pradtical
fyilcm purfued in any country ii; Europe. The plan which is followed
in the cities is n-arly fimibr to th.it of England, either by private
teachjrs, or at large public fchools, of which that of Edinburgh is the
moil eminent, and may be traced from the fixteenth century. But the
fuperior nd..intage of the Scutifh education confiits in every country
parKh podelFing a fchoolmailcr, as uniformly as a clergyman ; at leaft
the rule is general, and the exceptions rare. The fi.hoolmailer has a
I'mall falary, or rather pittance, whicli enables him to educate the chil-
(livn at a rate eafy and convenient, even to indigent parents. In the
Hii^hlands the poor clrildren will attend to the flocks in the fummer,
and the fchool in the winter.

Umvehsitiks.] The univerfities of Scotland, or rather colleges,
(for an Englilh univerllty includes many colleges and four.d.itions,)
.imoiiut to no lefs tliaii four, three on the eailern coail, St. Andrew's,
AIkuKhii and Edinhurgh ; and one on the w« Hern, that of Glafgow.

The univerlit} of St. Andrew's was founded by BUhop Wardlaw, in
the ve.'.r 1412 ; but as it is now of fmall importance in the proximity of
that of Ednihiu-'.'li, it wouKl he a patriotic uieafure to transfer it to the
II I'^lilaiuls. Tiiat of GKtlgow wa~! found'-d by Bi(hoi) Tumbull, in the
v..!r| 1453, and it has pro(luce«l many illuflrit)us prufeilors and able
ih;di'iits. 'I'he late .^Ir. Auderfon, proR Hor of natural philufophy,
finiiid 'd an inllitution t(» promote the knowledge of natural pluloU)phy
;ind liidciy, and more efpecially the application of ihcfe fciences to the
iiirful purj i)fes of conuntrce and manufiiOlures*.

Til' third univerlily, tliat of Aberdeen, wa ; foimded by Birtiop
VJ()!iIi (lone, in the year 15CO, and it has alw:'ys fupporlcd its hign
(' .after and intentions, lathe year ij'j^, George Keith, fifth Earl
^i rlhall, fouiided a cv)llege at Aberdeen, b"in<i; tlu- only Scotilh noblc-
miii who can clann that liiirli honour. The lafl, not leall, is that of
r,Ji;il)uri,li, founded by .huncs VI., in 15B0; and the bare enun\eralion
of it;, illullrlous prof'licr, and writers would occupy too much fpace for
the prel'tut plan. The buildings Ix. ing mean and cunluicd, the founds-

f Carnctt's 'I'uur, ii. I9J.

tlOM

SCOTLAND.

tion of a new edifice was laid in 1789, and, it is hoped, will foon be
completed on tlie magnificent plans adjufted by Adams.

Cities anj) towns.] The chief cities and towns in Scotland muft
now be confidered. Edinburgh, the capital, is comparatively of modern
name and note, the earlieft hint that can be applied to it, occwring in
the Cronicon Pidorunit about the year 955, where mention is made of a
town called Eden, as refigned by the Enghfli to the Scots, theft ruled by
Indulf. Holyi-ood-houfe was the foundation of the firft David.

The population of Edinburgh, including the port of Leith, was,
in 1678, computed at 35,500; in 1755, at 70,430; and iA 1791, at
84,886*.

The whole number of inhabitants in the old and new town of Edin.
burgh, together with the fuburbs, and the fca ports of north and fouth
Leith, were found by aftual enumeration in 1801 to amount to 82,560!.
The arrivals and clearances at Leith harbour, exceed the number of
1700 veflels of various defcriptions. Of thefe 165 belong to the town.
The commerce has been Hated atlialf a million annually.

The houfcs in tlic old town of Edinburgh are fometimes of remarkable
hriglit, not lefs than thirteen or fourteen floors, a fingularity afcril.. d to
the wilh of the ancient inhabitants, of being under the protection of the
caftle. This part of the city (lands on the ridge of a hill, gradually
defcending from the lofty precipice on which the caftle is fituated, to a
bottom, in which (lands the palace of Holyrood-houfe. Adjacent to
this edifice, is a park, of confiderable extent, rc'pKte with mountainous
fcenery ; for the bafaltic heights of Arthur's feat, and Sali(bury craj:fs,
are within its precintls. The new town of Edinburgh is defervedly cc
lebrated for regularity and ek-gance, the houfes being all of free-iloin.',
and fomeofthem ori'.amentcd with pillars and pilailers.

There are feveral public edifices in Edi.iburgh, which would do honour
to any capital ; among fucli may be iiamed the caillc, tlie palace, the
■principal church, Henot's-hofpital, the regiiler office, tlie new college,
and fivLi-al buildings in the new cityj. Tliere is an elegant bridge,
reaching from the hill on which the ancient city Itands, to the elevated
, fite of the new town. Another bridge palFcs in a line with the former,
towards the fouth, over a llreet c:illcd the Cow-gate : and an artitieial
mound extends from the wefiern part of the ridge to the oppofile hill.
Tlieenviions of Edinburgh- are fiiigulaily pleallngand pidurcfque. Oii
the north is an cK vatfd path, leading to tiie harbour of Leith: on the
eaflare Muflclbur ,h and Dalkeith, rural villages, watered by a beautiiiil
ftream. On the loiilh, Pentland hills; and towards tiie welt, the rivulet
Leith, and ba.ikj of rDmantic variety. I

The fecond city in Scotland is Glafgow, of ancient note in ec'erMllie
ftory, but of fniall account in the annals of cuinmerce, till the time ot
Cromwell's ul'urpation *,^. The ])Oj)5ilation of Glafguw, in 1755, ^^■''■■'
computed at 23,546, including the fnbiirhs ; the uuniber in 1791, was
ellimattd at 61,0)45 ; and the ."mount of the em:n:'.ration in 1801, \v;i;
77,385. The anciuit city wa.s rattier venrmible l!ia;i beautiful, but receiit
improv n-.Lii's have rei'.dercd it one ()f tlie neateil cities in the empire.
Its weilcrn fitnation expofes it to frequent ruins, a difidvautage reeoin-
pcnfd by il3 favouralde pofition fur connnerce with America and the
Well ludie:.. Ls commerce ha;t arifen to great extent fince the yeji

• Slatirt. Arcouiit, vi. ^^4.

+ .M):li,i(^t i.f ilie .iMiWcri .iivl loMirns.^c P. If.

} Aniot s I'.liiilMir'li. KmciiJ s L'o.

^ DoiiiiuliM s ULiI)^ >w.

• -*i'atirt. Ac

I7i«,

SCOTLAND.

1 718, when the firft (hip that belonged to Glafgow crofled the Atlan-
tic *. The number of (hips belonging to the Clyde, in 1 790, was 476,
the tonnage 46,581 ; but before the American war, it was fuppofed to
have amounted to 60,000 tons. Though the manufaftures fcarcely ex-
ceed half a century in antiquity ,they are now numerous and important f .
That of cotton in 179 1, was computed to employ 15,000 looms ; and
the goods produced, were fuppofed to amount to the yearly value of
1,500,000/. the manufadlures of linens, woollens, &c. are far from being
of fimilar confequence. The ancient cathedral of Glafgow furvived the
reformation, when the otlier Scotifli edifices of that denomination funk
into ruins. Two convenient bridges are thrown over tlie Clyde. The
environs of Glafgow prefent little remarkable.

Next in eminence are the cities of Perth and Aberdeen, and the town
of Dundee. Perth is an ancient town, fuppofed to have been the Vic-^.
toria of the Romans. It is pleafantly fituated on the wcftern bank of the
river Tay ; and has been known in commerce iince the thirteenth century,
but at prefent the trade is chiefly of the coafting kind, Dundee poflef-
fing a more advantageous fituation for foreign intercourfe. Linen forma
the llaplc manufafture, to the annual amount of about 160,000/. There
are alfo manufa£lures of leather and paper. Perth difplays few public
edifices worth notice. Inhabitants 14,878. There is a noble bridge, of
recent date, over the Tay, and the environs are interefting, particularly
tlic liill of Kinnoul, whicli prcfents fingular fcenes, and many curious
mineral produftions.

About eighteen miles nearer the moutli of the Tay, ftand Dundee, in
the county of Angus, a neat modern town. The firth of Tay is here be-
tween two and three miles broad ; and there is a good road for fliipping to
the eatt of the town, as far as liroughty-caftlc. On the firll of Septem-
ber 651, Dundee was taken by ilorm by General Monk ; and Lumif-
den, the governor, pcriihed amidlt a torrent of bloodflied. The population
is however, now equal to 26,084 ; the public edifices are neat and com-
modious. In 1792, the vefiels belonging to the port amounted to 116,
tonnage 8,550. The Uaple manufad\ure is linen, to the animal value of
about 80,000/. oanval's, Sic. about 40,000/. Coloured thread alfo fi)rms
a confiderable article, computed at 33,000/. and tanned leather at
1 4,00s/ J.

Aberdeen firil.rifes to notice in the eleventh century, and continued to
be chiefly memorable in etclefialUcal llory. In the fourteenth century it
was dcftroyed by Edward III. of En[;!aiid. The population in 1795,
v.aa computed at 24,493, but ^''^' enumeration in 1801, reduced it to
17,597. Though tho harbour be not remarkably conunodions, it can
bouit a confiderable trade, the ciiief exports being falmon and woollen
jjoods. In 1795, ^'"-' Bfitilh fliips entered at the port, were fixty-one,
the foreign five ; and the liritiih, ihips cleared outwards, amounted to
twenty-ciglit. Tiie chief niauufatluns are woolK-n goods, particularly
ilockings, the annual export of which is computed at 123,000/. The
coarfe linen mauufatlure is not of much account , but tlie thread is of
ttleemed quality.

The other chief towns of Scotland (h:\\\ only be briefly mentioned,
beginning with the fouth-Oail part of the Kingdom. Berwick is a for-
tified town of fonie note, and carries on a confiderable trade in falmon.
The veffeU built at tbis port are conllructcd on excellent principles.

• Sfatirt. Ace. V. ^98.

f Ibid. 501.

t StatiiU Ace. viii. p. ao;,X.c.
JcdlM:rj;;h,

mmm^-

SCOTLAND.

Jedburgh, on the river Jed, which dcfccuds from- the Cheviot hills, i$
chiefly remarkable for the beautiful ruins of anabbty, founded by David I.
Prefent number of inhabitants 3,834.

Dumfries ftands on a riiing ground, on the eaftern banks of the Nith,
and contains 7,288 inhabitiiuts.

Ayr, the chief town in the S. W. of Scotlnnd, is fitunted on a fandy
plain, on a river of the fame name. The chief trade is iu grain and coals ;
and a few vcflcls arc built. Inhabitants 5,492. Irwin has about 4000.

Lanark ftands iu a moft pidlurefque country, near the celebrated falls
of the Clyde. It \vas only noted for its acjtdemy, under the manage-
ment of Mr. Thomfon, broti.er-in-law of Thomfon the poet, till the
recent cotton manufacture, and other ert-^.lions by the patriotic Mr.
Dale, rendered this town ftill more worthy of attention. Inhabitants
4,692.

Greenock and Port-Glafgow, are confiderable towns, which have
arifen to celebrity, by fharlng in the trade of Glafgow. Greenock con-
tains 17,458 inhabitants; Port-Glafgow about 3,865. Pailley, in the
fame county, is celebrated by its mannfafturc of muflin, lawns, and
gauzes, to the annual amount, it is faid, of 66o,oool. The population
amounts to 31,179. Dumbarton, on the oppofite fhoro of the Clyde,
contains about 2,541 fouls, and is alfo fubfcrvient in the manufafturos of
Glafgow.

Sterling is rather romarktible for its commanding and truly royal fitu-
ation, than for its induRry. The inhabitants amount to 5,256. Between
Sterling and Edinburgh Hands Bonefs, formerly called Borrow ilowiufs,
in the midtl of collieries and falt-works : the harbour is good, and tlicre
are 2,790 inhabitants.

The county of Fife contains many towns, fome of which were in a
more flourilhing fituation when Scotland carried on a confiderabie inter.
coiu'fe with France. Dunfermline h a pleafant town, containing 9,9^0
inhabitants, and carries on a confiderable manufa<^\ure of diapers, riicre
are ruins of a pahice, tlie royal rcfulence in the tiuie of Malcolm III,
St. Andrews lias about 2,500; it is chiefly remarkable for its ruined
catiiedral.

Forfar, in Angus, contains 5,165 foulu, and the linen manufadurcs
defervc inei.tion.

Dunkeld is ot venerabl • and pidurefque fame, but jts linen manufac-
ture* are incoiiliderable. I'recln'n tontains 5,466 people: its products are
linen, cotton, and tanned le:;tlier. Muntrolo has a population of 7,974,
and a few manufadun-; the i)uildings are nioilly modern and neat.

The county of Meunis prefents no town .. ortli mention. Peterhead,
in Abcrdeenlhirc, contains ab(/.it 2;COO fouls. It has a n\ineral fpring,
and carries on i" me tr;ule v.\{\i the Baltic. Fni/erburgh, near the pro-
montory of Kiunaird li.ad, has alio a tolerable harbour. Inhabitants
2,215.

Portfoy is a fea port town, peopled with al.out 2,coc fouls. In the
rcighbourhood, are i!" rocks well kno- n lo niineralogills, c(«itainiiig
elegant granites of dilfernt kinds, ft.,j,ri:'.lnes and fte"'tiles, with their
ufual concomitants, afhellos a; J amiantlius.

Elgin, the capiiul oi the county of Mur.iy, boalls of tlie remains of an
elegant cathedral, ;uk1 cowl. .ins 4,3^ , ii hal.i'ants.

Iiivcrnefs is an ancient aiul lloiu-'lhing town, the capital of the nortliorn
Highlands. The j)()| ulatit-n etpials X,~22. The chief inanufadures are
ropes and candles. An academy has luuly becu fyundcd hwrv ou an ex-
cellent plan.

5 ' . " • The

SCdTLAJfDI.

ami f lic-
it s are

7.974»
■at.
rhcLid,
fpriiig,
H> pro-
abitauts

In tlic

IS of an

ortliern
urcs are
1 an ex-

The few towns further to the north are of little' account. Port Rofe
has only 800 fouls ; but Cromarty has 2»2o8, a fmall manufadture of
coarfe cloth, and fome coalting trade in corn, thread, yarn, nails, ii(h and
(kins. Dingwall contains 1,418 fouls, and a fmall linen manufa£turc.
Tain has 2,277 inhabitants. Dornoch was once the %efidence of the
bifhops of Caithnefs : population 2,362.

After a dreary interval Wick occurs, the laft town on the eaftern
coaft ; the inhabitants, 3,986, chiefly deal in cod and herrings.

Thurfo, on the northern fhore, fronting the Orkneys, has manufac-
tures of woollen and linen. Population 3,628.

Hence there is a lamentable void along the weftem half of Scotland,
till we arrive at Inverary, in Argylefhire, 'the foundation of the noble
houfe of Argyle, after pafllng a fpace of about 1 60 miles, where only a
few fcattered hamlets can be found. Inverary is a neat and pleafant
town of about 1,000 fouls ; there are manufaftures of linen and woollen,
and a coniiderable iron work. The ore is brought from the weft
of England, and is fmelted with charcoal, from the woods of Argyle-
fhire.

In the fame county is Campbell-town, a royal borough, in the fouthern
part of the peninfula of Cantire. The trade is confiderable as it is the
general refort of the firtiing veflcls ; and the inhabitants amount to 7,093.
The liarbour is excellent, m the form of a crefcent, opening to the eait,
in front of the Ifland of Arran. About fifty weavers are employed in
the cotton manufafture*.

Edifice^.] Scotland abounds with remarkable edifices, ancient and mo-
dern. Thofc of the capital have been already mentioned. In its vicinity
is Hopeton-houfe, the fplendid refidence of the earl of Hopoton ; Dal-
keith palace, a feat of the duke of Buccleugh ; Newbottel, the feat of the
marquis of Lothian ; Mclvillc-caftle, the elegant villa of the Rt. Hon.
Lord Melville ; and the fplendid manfion of the marquis of Abercorn.
Nor mult Pennicuick, the feat of the family of Clerk, be omitted ; but
the traveller of taite would be more interefted in Hawthornden, the ancient
feat of Drummond the poet. It would be vain to attempt a fimilar enu-
meration of the other counties, and only a few of the moft remarkable
(hall be mentioned ; fuch as in the fouth, the duke of Roxburgli's, near
Kello; the Dukeof (^ueenfbcrry'satDrumlanrig; and Hamilton-palace
near Hamilton.

Tlie county of Ayr contains many beautiful edifices belonging to the
nobility and gentry, among wliich may be mentioned Loudon-houfe, the
feat of the earlj of Loudon ; and CoIaiiie-caiUe, the feat of the earl of
Caihlis, defjgned by Adiuns, in 1789. Wigton(hire has Culhorn, the feat
of the carls of Stair and CalUc-Kcnnedy ; Galloway-houfe, &c. In the
vicinity of the flourifliing city of Glafgow, it may be imagined that the
villas muft be numerous and elegant ; and, even the fmall liland of Bute
can boall of Mount Stuart. The caille of Dumbarton is another re-
markable edifice in this region.

On pafling the Forth, the rich county of Fife prefents many inte-
rcfting edifices, fuch as Lcllie-caftle, the feat of the earls of Rothes ;
Wemyfs, and Balcarras, the feats of the earls of thofe titles ; the
houfe of Kinrofs, built by Sir William Bruce, &c. Sec. Perthfhire con-
tains Tullibardin and Blair, the feats of the Duke of Athol ; DuppHn,
that of ♦'!"• earl of Kinnoul ; Drummond, the refidence of lord Perth;
Tayi..:i!tli, the fplendid manfion of the carl of Draidalban ; Scone, a

• Switft, Account, X. S5i-

The

royal

SCOTLAND.

royal palace, S(C, &c. In Angus we find Panmure, the ancient refidenc^
of the earls of Panmure ; and Glammis, the venerable feat of the earls of
Strathmore. The Shire of Mearns, or Kincardine, contains Dunotter-
Caftle, the elevated manfion of the earls Marfliall, &c. Aberdeenfhire
prefents caftle Horbcs. In Bamff-fliire we find Cullen-houfe, the intereft.
ing feat of the earl of Finlater ; DufF-houfe, that of the earl of Fife ;
Gordon-callle, a beautiful manfion of the duke of Gordon ; in the county
of Moray, Tarnaway -cattle, the feat of' the earl of Moray ; Invernefs
prefents Fort George, a miUtary eredtion of fome note, about twelve
miles to the eaft of Iiivernefs. The line of forts is continued through the
centre of the county, by Fort Auguftus, at the further end of Lochncfs,
and Fort William, at the northern extremity of Loch Linny, at the bot*
torn of the lofty Bennevis. In the county of Rofs, to the north of Ding-
wall, is Caftle-Leod, a feat of the carls of Cromarty, New Tarbet, and
Balnagowan, command the Frith of Cromai'ty. At Dornock and Dun-
robin, are feats of the carls of Sirtherland. The fliore of Caithnefs dif-
plays many ancient caiUes, but the modern edifices are few ; the patriotic
Sir John Sinclair has a pleafing rclldcnce near Thurfo ; and in the N.W.
extremity of Scotland, lord Rcay has two manfions, one near Tong, and
another at Durnefs, with an extcnfive wild of rocks, intercepted with
moraflcs, called lord Reay's forcll. The wellern coails of Scotland pre-
fent an enormous void, till liivcrary, the fplcndid manfion of the dukes
of Argyle, rifes like fome oriental vifiou in tlie wildernefs.

In/.and Navigation'.] The moll remarkable inland navigation in
Scotland, is the excellent and extenfive canal from the Forth to tlie Clyde,
commenced in 1768, from a furvcy by Smeaton four years before.

" The dimenfions of this canal, though greatly contradled from the
*• original defign, are much fuperior to any work of the fame nature in
** South Britain*. Tiie Englifh canals are generally from three to five
** feet deep, and from twenty to forty feet wide, and the lock gates from
•* ten to twelve feet ; but they anfwer the purpofe of inland carriage
•• from one town to anotlier, for vvhicli alone they were defignedi The
*' depth of the can.il ootween the Forth and Clyde is feven feet ; its
" breadth at the furface fifty-fix feet ; the locks are fevcnty-five feet
" long, and their gut'S twenty feet wide. It is raifed from the Carrcn

* ♦ by twenty locks, in a traft of ten miles, to the amazing height of i jj

* ' feet above the medium full fea mark. At tljc twentieth lock begins
•• the canal of partition on the fummit, between the call and weft feas;
*' which cannl of partition continues eighteen miles on a level, tcrmi-
*• nating at Ilaniikun-hill, a mile N. W. of the Clyde, at Glafgow. In
" fome places tlie canal i;i carried tiirough mon"y ground, and in others
*♦ through folij r6ck. In the fourth mile of the canal there a^e ten
" locks, and a fine aqueduct bridge, which crofTes the great road lead-
*• ing from Edinburgh to Glafgow. At KirkintuUock, the canal is
" carried over the water of Logic, on an aqucducl bridge, the arch of
" whieh is ninety feet broad, 'i'here are in the whole eighteen draw.
" bridges, and fifteen aquedud bridges, of confiderable lize, befide?
" fmall ones and tunnels."

The fupplyiiig the canal wit]\ water, was of itfelf a very great work.
One relervoir is above twenty-four feet deep, and covers a furface of fifty
acres, near Kilfyth. Another, about feven niih s northof Glafgow, con.
fiftb of fcveiily acres, ar.d is banked up at a fluice, twenty-two feet.

The dii
paffagc, tl
100. On t
to fea, wh
Clyde, as
prccifely t
/liiiflitd.

The ger

fmallcr cap

in the natic

Jias been ef

exports are

The imporJ

rum, fugar,

lawny, gau

foap, iron,

rum and col

wines from

carried to a

ruTchandize

TJic chief

amount, it is

carpets feem

larly that of

tiuual advant

• I'hill'i-s, 2;6.

The

Climate anet
Rivers,
Miner alo

Climate a\

a country fo

midity as in E

the Atlantic.

with rain, an

the winter is

intenfityof t

great power i:

tions chiefly a

differs but Jitt

vales of Mora

Face of
mountainous,
lation is of n
JJut the name
weft of Perth

* 'n 179.'?. th
P Ixsv. edit, i ;^

■■•(!,

SCOTLAND.

The 'Jlftance bct\YPPn the Firths of Clyde and Forth, by the ncareft
paffage, that of the Pcntland Firth, is 600 miles, by this canal fcarccly
100. On the 28th of July, 1790, the canal was completely open from fca
to fca, when a hofrflread of the water of Forth was poured into the
Clyde, as a fymbol of their jundion. Tne length of the canal is
prccifely tUiity-iive miles, and no work of the kind can be more ably
fiiiiflitd.

The general commerce of Scotland, though on a fmaller fcale, and with
fmallcr capitals, is in mod rclpc£ts fimilar to that of EnirUind, and (hares
in the national profperlty. That of the capital, through Leith its pott,
has been eflimated, as \w have feen, at half a million yearly*. The chief
exports are linen, grain, iron, glafs, lead, woollen Huffs, foap, &c. &c.
The imports are wines, brandy, and from the Weft Indies and America,
rum, fugar, rice, indigo. Glafgow exports cottons of all kinds, mufiins,
lawny, gauzes, &c. glafs, ilockings, earthen ware, cordsp^e, fee. candles,
foap, iron, leather. Sec. &c. The ch.ief imports are tobacco, fugar,
rum and cotton, from the Weft Indies ; Irifh beef, butter, ar.d linen ;
wines from Portugal, and other countries. The fifheries of Scotland, if
carried to a proper extent, would furnifh a very feonfiderable ftore of
nierchandi/e.

Tlic chief luanufaftures of Scotland are linen of vr.rions kinds, to the
amount, it is faid, of about 750,0001. annually. Or woollers, the Scotifii
cnrpets foem to form the chief branch. The iron manufafturos, particu-
larly that of Carron, deferve alfo to be enumerated among the chief na-
tional advantages.

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL CEOGRArilY.

Climate anti Senfons.—-Face of the Country. — Soil and jigr'uuliurc.'-—
Rivers. — I.ahes. — Mountains. — Fortjls. — Botany. -^Zoology. —
Mineralogy. — Mineral Healers.-— Natural Curiqfitii's.

_ _ -, np" HE climate of Scotland is fuch asmijiht

Climate and Seasons.] | ^^ ^^^^^^^ j,^ ^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^^^ - ^^

a country fo mountainous. In the eaftern parts, there is not fo much hu»
midity as in England, as the mountains on the weft arreft tlie vapours from
the Atlantic. On the other hand, the wcftern countries are deluged
with rain, an infuperable oljilacle to the progrefs of agriculture. Even
the winter is more diftinguifbable by tlie abundance of fnow, than by the
intcnfity of the froft ; but in fui -mer the heat of the (v.n is reflected with
great power in the narrow vales between the mountains. Thefe obferva-
tions chiefly apply fo the north and well. In the caft and fuulh the climate
differs but little from that of Yorkfhirc ; and corn fomctimes ripens in the
vales of Moray, as early as m Lothian.

Face op the Count uy.] The face of the country is in general
mountainous, to the extent, perhaps, of two thirds ; whence the popu-
lation is of ncceflity flender, in comparifon with the admcafurement.
But the name of Highlands is more ftriftly confined to Argylefhire, the
weft of Perthfhire, and of Inverucfs ; and the entire counties gf Rofs,

* In 179.V *h'' Sf'tilh rxports wer» computed at i,0?4,74il.
f Ujv. edit. 17^4. 'll^c IhijM cmi>!oyfd \\cr« 2,834' 'I'-

l-'w'

iik

Chalir.er't r.llimdt«,
Sutherland^

ifttMiiawi'i »■

SCOTLAND.

Sutherland, .ind Caithnefs. In proceeding from the fouth-eaft, the en.
trance into the liighlands near Dunkeld is very impreflive, there'being a
conliderable trad of plain, juft before what may be termed the gates of
the mountains. Even the eallern parts have httle of uniform flatiiefs
but are fweetly diveriified with hill and dale. The rivers in general arc
remarkably pure and tranlparent, and their courfe rapid. The rich
roughnefs of an Englifli profpeft, diverfified with an abundance of wood
even in the hedge-rows, is in Scotland rarely vifible { whence the nudity
of the country makes a ilroiig imprefllon on the itrangcr. But the laii.
dable exertions of many of the nobility and gentry, w'ho plant trees by
millions, will foon remove this reproach.

Son. AND AoRicui/ruHE.] For a minute account of the various foils
that prevail in Scotland, and the different modes of agriculture, the reader
muil be referred to the Statillical Accounts, publiflied by Sir John
Sinclair. The excellence of the Engli/h agriculture has juitly entitled
it to an imitation almolt univerfal. But this advantage is of recent
date ; and, for a long period of time, Scotland was remarkable for pro-
diicing the bell; gardeners and the worft farmers in Europe.

Rivers.] The three cliief rivers of Scotland are the Forth, tho
Clyde, and tlie Tay. Tlu? chief fource of the Forth is from 15;mi I^o-
mond, or rather from the two lakes. Con and Ard : the ftream of Go\\.
die foon joins it from the lake of Menteith ; and the river Teith, fed by
the lakes Ketterin, l^ubnaig, and others, fwells the Forth to a noble
ftream, about four mika above Stirling.

The Clyde is faid to iffue from a hill in the S. E. corner of Twecdale
called Arrick Stane, which is undoubtedly the chief fource of the
Tweed, and one fource of the Annan ; but the Clyde has a more re.
mote fource in Kirfliop, or Dair water, rifing about fix miles further
to the fouth, in the very extremity of Lanarkmirc ; and the true fource
of the Annan feems to be Loch Skeen, in the county of Selkirk. How-
ever this be, the Clyde pafl'es through Crauford Moor, leaving the range
'of Leadhills on the left, and winding under the lofty hill of Tinto, near
Symington, purfues a northerly courfe, till about two miles to the fouth
01 Carnwaith, when it rcfumes its chief wefterly direftion.

The principal fource of the Tay is the lake of the fame name, or t!ie
river may be traced to the more wefterly fourcesof the Attrick and the
Dochart, and the fmaller ftream of Lochy ; which fall into the wellcrn
extremity of Loch T.ny. Soon after this noble river iflues from the
lake, it is joined by the river Lyon ; and, at no great interval, by the
united ftrcams of the Tarf, the Garry, and the Tumel, the laft, a rapid
and romantic river. Tlie 11 reams of Ericlit and Hay fwell tlie Tay, about
nine miles to the north of" Perth ; afti • palling which city, it receives the
venerable ftream of the Eni, and fpreads into a wide eftuary.

Next in confequence and in fame is the Tweed, a beautiful and paf-
toral ftream, which, receiving the Teviot from tjie fouth, near Kelfo,
falls into the fea at Berwick.

The Scottifti Tyne is an inconfiderable river, which runs by Had.
dington.

In the fouth weft, the Annan contributes largely to the Firth of Sol-
way, but no town wrth mentioning adonis its banks. Dumfries ftands
upon the Nith, a river of longer courfe tiian the Annan, and marked a;*
its cftuarj by the ruins of Caerlavroc caftle, an important fortrefs in
ancient times. The river Ore, and that recently ftyled Kirkudbriglit,
anciently and properly called the Ken (whence is derived the title of
Kenmure), aud the Fluct, arc furpaffed by tlic river Cree gr Cricf j which

fornnyly

SCOtLAND.

formerly fplit Galloway into two divifionS} and which opens into the
noted bay of Wigton.

The rivers of Ayrfhire, flowing iiito the grand eftuary of the Clyde,
are of inconfiderable iize.

To the north of the eftuary of Forth occurs the Eden, which, after
watering the royal park of Falkland, and Coupar the county town,
meets the ocean, about two miles to the north of St. Andrews.

To the north' of Tay are the South Efk, which paffes by Brecliin and
Montrofe ; and the North Efk, a lefs Confiderablc llream.

In the county of Kincardine there is no river of confequence. But
the Dee is a conliderable and placid ftream, iffuing from the mountains
of Scairfoch, and purfuing a due eafterly courfe to Aberdeen. The
Don runs almoft parallel, a few miles to the north, joining the fea about
two miles from Aberdeen, after palling Old Aberdeen, or rather, in the
old orthography, Aberdon.

A few miles to the north of the Don, the river Ythan falls into the
German ocean, a ftream formerly celebrated for its pearl fiftjeries, of
which fomc relics remain. The Uggie is the laft ftream of any confe-
tjiicDce in Aberdeenfhire.

The following rivers direft their coitrfe to the north. The Devon
joins the fea at BaiilF. The Spey is a grand impetuous river, riling from
a finall lake, called Loch Spey, in the vicinity of the high mountain of
Corriarok, near Fort Auguilus, whence it rolls to the fouth-eaft, amid
mountainous wilds, till it fuddenly turns to its fixed direction, the north-
tad, being, perhaps, upon the whole, the moft considerable Alpine river
in Scotlnrid.

The water of LoAle is only remarkable as it walhes the venerable
remains of Elgin ; but Findorn, which runs by the Forres of Macbeth
and Shakefpeare, is a confiderable torrent.

The Nefs, iffuing from the lake fo called, and the Beuly, confpire to
form the large eftuaty, vailed Murray Firth ; while that of Cromarty is
formed by the Grady, the Conon, and other ftreams.

The eftuary of Dornoch is formed by a river which iffues from Loch
Shin, by the Caran, and by the intermediate ftream, called Okel.

The other ftreams in the furtheft north of Scotland are unhappily of
fmall confequence. The water of Thurfo, and that of Naver, are the
chief. In the north-weft extremity are the Strathmore, the Strathbeg,
snd the Durnefs, which enter the fea to the eaft of the ftupendous pro-
montory of Cape Wharf, now moderirized Wrath.

On the weft of Scotland there is no river of any moment, but the de-
fe(ft is compenfated by numerous lakes, or rather creeks, of which the
moll confiderable are Laxford, Calva, Ennard, and that of Broome,
ivhich forms a noble bay, lUidded with iflands, nearly parallel with the
bay of Dornoch. On its fhore is the proje<fted fettlement of Ullapool,
to wliich every patriot muft wiOi fuccefs. Next are the En and the
Gare, the Torridon, the KefTern, and others of fmaller note. Argyle-
Ihire exhibits the Sunart, a long inlet, which terminates at Strontian ;
and the Linny, extending to Fort William. The Etif is impeded by a
fingular cataract, at its entrance into the fea. Tlip fmall inlet of Crinau
attracts obfervation, by the promifed canal ; and the lift is clofcd by
Loth Fyne, and Loch Long, forming vaft inlets from the eftuary of
i'lyde.

Lakes.] Among the lakes of Scotland, the chief in extent and beauty
iji that of Lomond, ftudded with romantic iflands, and adorned witii
fhores of the grcateft divcrfity. The ifles are fuppofed to form part of

G 2

iiio

SCOTLAND.

the Grampian chain, winch here terminates on the well. The dtptli of
this lake in the fouth is not above t<vTiity fathoms; but tlie north-jrii
creek, near the bottom of Ben Lomond, is from fixty to eighty
fathoms.

On the eail of Lomond is an affeniblageof curious lakes, tl)c Ket-
terin, or Cathin, the Con, or Chroin, the Ard, the Achray, or Ach.
vary, the Vanachor, the Lubnaig ; exliibiting fingidar and piclurcfque
fccnes, called by the Highlander;* the 'Lrojathsy a word lignifying roueli,
or uneven grounds*. This denomination is ilridlly applicable to the (\^x.
rounding hills and rocks of diftorted forms, as if feme convulfion had
taken place, but often covered with heath, and ornamented, even to the
fumniits, with the weeping birch. The hills are of argillaceous fchilhis •
ia other words, in llrat;i of coarfe flate, moftly vertical, and interfperfed
with veins of quartz. Kettcrin, or Cathein, is a lake of conlidcrablc
extent and beauty, with fonie rocky illes, and crowned by the mouu.
tain of Ben Veney : the fifh are trout and char. Vanachor lias fahnon
and trout ; but Acliray only pike. . .

In the vicinity is the lake of Menteith, a beautiful fmall lake, about
five miles in circumference, with two woody iflcs, one prefenting the
ruins of a monallery, the other thofe of a callle of the old Earls of
Menteith.

Having thus briefly defcriued the principal lake and feme others in its
vicinity, it may be proper to obferve, before proceeding to others in a
more northerly fituation, that the S. W. region of Scotland, anciently
called Galloway, contain feveral piAurcfquc lakes (which in Great Bri.
tajn and Ireland feem always to accompany groups of mountains),
though not of equal extent and celebrity with thofe of the north. The
moil confidcrable is the lake of Ken, in the couiity of Kirkudbriglit,
on wliich Hands a village, called New Qalloway. Tiiis lake is decorated
witii three fmall illes. Next is that of Crey, on the borders of Wig.
tonlhire. In the county of Ayr, there is a fmall lake, called Loch
Dolen.

Returning towards the north. Loch Levcn, in Fifefhire, attrafts oh-
fervation from its hiilorical fame. The lakes in the fouth of Pertlifhire
have been already mentioned, and to the eall muft be added Loch Em,
I^och Tay, and thofe of Rannoch, Lydoch, and Erycht. That of
Tay, in particular, is a grand and beautiful expanfe of water, of fudi
length, as rather to refcmble a noble river ; and at its eaftern extre.
mity arc placed the capital manfion and plantations of the Earl of
Braidalbin. ,

Loch Ncfs rirals Loch Tay in extent and reputation. The depth is
from fixty to 135 fathoms, the ti(h excellent trout f. Its great depth
is the caufe why it never freezes. It is remarkable that the bed of this
lake, and in ger.eral of the watery chain which extends to Loch Liniiey,
is filled with pudding-tlone, hills of which occur near Dunolla and Dun-
ftafTnage, on the weilern fliores of Argyle. Tlic counties of Siithir.
land and C'aithnefs coiitain many fmall lakes. The chief are Locli Lnil,
whiclj fend.; a iheam into the bay of Far ; and Loch Shin, a confider-
aJJic liikt.-, twenty i!)ilcs in length, but on acct)unt of its windings the eye
can Oiii/ coinmiuul .1 Few miles at a time. I'roin its fouth-call cxlreiujly
iffnes the iivt-r Slur., i;i two broad cafcades.

l:i the veileni diviliwii of Scotland Loch Awe, in Argylefhlre, in tjie
inoil iionllderable lake { u ii> jibout thirty miles in length, and from oiif

* 'fiarnet's Torn-, ir. 1 7j

■f- Pennant's Tour.

age

/liial, tliefirU c
Jiy-liijls on the

**'^"'t. To the
Ledy (3009)
(4015}; Shiha

SCOTLAND.

«5

to t^vo in breadth ; and is fludded w'.th many fmall, woody ides, one of
which bears the ruins of a monallery, and another thofeof an ancient
fortrefii, the refidtnce of the Campbells of Lochav.-e, afterwards Dukes
of Argylc. This lake empties itlclf, by a confiderable llrcam, near its
jiorthcrn end, into the creek called Loch Etif.

But the chief diftinftive feature of Scotland confifts in its numerous
jTiountains, which interfeft the country in various directions. In the
fouth-weft, the ancient province of Galloway prefents an extenfive af-
fcmblage of hills, which feldom defcribe any uniform ciiatn, from tlic
tay of Glenluce, which extends towards Locli R yan, and thence in a
]>J. E. direftion to Loch Doon, the fource of the river of the fame name.
Other ridges nm in various dirLdlions, generally north and fouth, ac
cording to the courfc of the rivers, till we arrive at the Nith, near which
is Cruffel, a detached fummit of confiderable height. According to
General Roy, than whom there cannot be a better authority, the moun-
tains of Galloway form a oanjiefted chain with tliofe of Clieviot on the
N. E.

Cut the chief elevation of this part of Scotland is that metaliferous
ridge in its very centre, called the I^ead Hills. The fmall ftream of
Elvan conveys particles of gold to the Clyde, and German muiers are
faid to have discovered confiderable quantities of that precious metal.
The chief fumtiit of this ridge is Hitrtfell, which, according to fome
accounts, is 33CO feet above the level of the fea ; but by others 2582.
To the ealt we find the uniform ridge of Lamermoor, terminating in
St. Abb's Head. Tlie hills of Pentland, on the fouth of Edinburgh,
are rather pidlurefque tjjan important, lierwick I^aw, and the romantic
fiimmits, in the vicniitycf Edinburgh, clofe thelill of the fouthern hill».
The Lead-hills chiefly conlill of argillaceous fchithis ; but the grey gra-
nite abounds in the mountains of Galloway. In all, hov.ever, the chief
portion feems to be calcareous ; the fummits are round, fome verdant,
pthers covered with heath. The red granite, and other grand Alpine
rocks, feem here unknown. In the I^othians the calcareous ilrata fup-
port vaft mafles of whin, trap, and bafalt, which extend to the northern
ihore of the Firth of Forth. ^

On irafllng the Forth appears the range of Ochill-hills, more remark-
able for their fingular agates and calcedonies, than for their height,
On ihe north-call of Aberdeenfhire is Mormond, a remarkable folitary
(uinniit ; whence no moiintuins of note occur till Invcrnefs, on l}^ \v<il,
opens the patli to the Higldands. Yet it niufl not be forgokt-.n, that
from the lofty promontory of Trouphead to Portfoy, eKtend yatt maffes
of beautiful red. granite, interfperfed with fchorl; and of ferpentine with
lleatites, and other valuable ltoi\es. Before leaving tlie i^owland hills,
it-may be obferved, that the fmall ridge in Fifediire, between the Eden
and Leven, called Lgmiin hills, CQiililb molUy of hard free-llone, with
fupcrincumbent Hrata gf whin and bafalt.

The Grampian hills may be confidered as a grand frontier chain,
extending from I^och I^imond to Stonehaven, and forming the fouthern
boiiiidar)' of tlie Highlandfi, though four or five counties on tlio Korth-
».'ail of that chain have, in their eaftern and northern part*^ the name
and advantage of l^owlands. The tranfition to the Grainpian is gra-
fliuil, the firit chain, acconhng to General Roy, v<«;lUl:ng of the bad-
liy-liills on the call, the Ochils in the middle, and ^'amply-hills on the
well. To the Grampian chain belongs IJcu Lomond (3262); ikn
Ledy (3009); Ben More (3903) j Ben Lawn's, the cliief iummit
(4015) J Sluhalliou (3564); iien Yorlich (3300); unU other Ids im

poiUul

SCOTLAND.

portant elevations on the eaft. Mount Battock, in Kincardinfliire, is
3465 feet. Ben Cruachan, in Argylefliire, is a folitary mountain, 330Q
feet above the fea.

Ben Nevis is the higheft mountain in Great Britain, being eftimated
at 4350 feet above the level of the fea, not much above a quarter of
the height of Mont Blanc. This mountain has not hitherto been ex.
plorcd by any mincralogiil. On the N. E. fide it prefents a precipice,
nearly perpendicular, and of prodigious height, by fome accounts icqo
feet. The view from the fummit is grand*, exhibiting molt of the
wcftern Highlands, from the paps of Jura, to the hills of Cullen, in
8key ; on the eail it extends to Ben Lawres, in Perthfliire, and the
river Nefs ; extent of view about eighty miles. The fuperior half of the
mountain is almoft dellitute of vegetation.

It would be dilficult to divide the remaining mountains of the Hii-fi.
lands into diflincl lines or groups ; they ihall, therefore, be briefly
mentioned in the order of proximity. To t!ie N. W, of Ben Nevis is
the long mountain of Corriarok, near Fort Augulhis, over which a
military road has been diretled in a zig-zag direction. From the foot
of this mountain arife? the rapid river Spey j and other ftreams run to
the weft, circumftances which indicate great elevation. About thirty
miles to the eaft rifes the mountain Cairngorm (4060 feet J or the blue
mountain, clothed with ahnoft perpetual fnow, and remarkaole for quart/,
of different colours, chiefly the fmoaky kind, well known to lapidarii-s.
The other chief mountains in this region are thofe of Braemar, or Scair.
foch, at the fourceof the Dee ; Ben Awn, and many of fmaller heiirlit
fuch as Beiiibourdf , Benachie, &:c.

In the fecond divifion of the Highlaijds, which lies beyond Loch Linny
and Loch Nefs, the mountains arc yet more numerous, but not fo mc
morable. The wcllcrn (horc, in particular, is crowded with hills, from
the ifland of Skey to cape Wrath, while a branch fpnading eaftward
toward* Ord-head (1250 feet) forms, what are termed by feamen, the
Paps of Caithncfs {uj2ij feel). The chief mountains on the well of
Rofsihire are, Ben Chaiker, on the fouth of Loch Broom ; and Bon
Wevis (37^0 flit).

On proceeding to the mofl norihern parts of Scotland, the comitiis
of Sutherland and Cailhnt fs, Hrft occurs Ben Ormoid ; then extends thi-
cliain called the Faj> , coiililling of the mountains Morben, Scurahcii,
iic. from winch ran in a northerly direction, according to the coiirfe ot"
the rivers, inferior chains. The N. W. extremity of Scotland preriin>
fome pleafant vales towards the fea, and inland that of Dornadilhi,
and an elevated plain on the weft of Loch Loial, called Dirrvnion-
foreft X ' further to the well no names occur except tliat of Cape Wrath,
and the region is defcribed by an intelligent traveller in the following
terms || :

" But a will' extent of dcfcrt country lay before us, and exhibiti li
•' a nioil an 'lift pii^hire of forlorn nature. The profpect was alto-
*' gether inunenfe, but wild and defolate beyond conception. The
" nuiuntains piefented nothing to view but heath and rock; between
♦' them fonnlcfs lakes and pools, dark vvith the Ihadea thrown from

• St:iti(l. .Ace. viii. 414.

f .•\iiv.iys rovt-rcil wit!) inou', nni>, j'crhnps, .is ISIi. A'lkin conroives, higher th..ii
Ciiriijioim. At about the liuii;lii ul' .,0^0 feci, limw Lnuint all the year in .S»;ui-
land.

I Oiiil.ncr'i Lctitr to i'cini.nit, i\ m.

II Ibid. X04,

' «' prodigiouii

*• proi

'< gloc

Hav

the Sec
of the
Ib'tiient
lands, 1
tain in nf
immedia
penetrat
the Tay
vale is of
ivhole fni
gnnitv.
with a fev
hluei/li gf
iloiie is m
fthi/his, i
l^ad. Th
o^erfjjread
contains n
chiefly cxhi
lime-ftone.
Such are
uards Ben j
is chiefly of
Caiitire. £
\yhkh chiefl
of which fir
coiirfe of pui
Inns in t/ie i
tiiat the coai
in the form (
|K!)bIes of re
Mount Scur;|
•I'll other mo
"' fhe fame
'i'nl micaceoiij
The ceiitnl
fj'Vii explore
pnmitive lime
,'WiiJhis, but
if whitv qua
ii he/I adaptet
I'pon tile V
''if Scotilh m
NVvis to I»ort
liliial, but the
'"I'l fii'id-ftone
t'.iiriigorm, ai
('i;i'iipians, w
to a German nl

• Mr. A

SCOTLAND.

«« prodigious precipices, gave grandeur to the wildemefs in its moll
« jrlooniy forms."

Having thus explained, at fome length, the direftions and pofitions of
tlic Scotim mountains, becaufe they conftitute the moll remarkable feature
of the country, and yet have never received due illullration, their con-
(Ijtiicnt parts remain to be briefly examined ♦. On entering the High-
lands, near Dunkeld, the firll ridges are alluvial hills of gravel, con-
taining pebbles of micaceous fchillus, quartz, and granite. The rocks
immediately to the north of Dunkeld are compofed of micaceous fchillus,
penetrated in every direftion by veins of quart/.. From the junftion of
the Tay and Tumel, vvellward to Loch Tay, the northern bound of the
vale is of the fame fubllances, fometimes interfpcrfod with garnets. The
whole fummit of the higher chain is covered with large round mafles of
frranite. Tlie fouthern mores of Loch Tay confill of micaceou.s fchillus,
with a few garnets, interrupted about the middle with banks of compaft
hlucilh grey lime-llone. The northern Ihores are fimilar, but the lime-
jlone is micaceous. The mountains in Glenlochy are mollly of micaceous
fihillus, interfperfed with garnet ; Glen Lyon pirfents fmall veins of
Kad. 'I'lic vale of Tumel, between I^ich Tumel and I^och Rannoch, is
oveiTpread with rounded fragments of granite and micaceous fchillus, but
contains granitoid, and fome granite. The lower part of Glen Tilt
chiefly exhibits micaceous fchillus ; the upper, principally granite anj
lime-llone. ,

^)iicli are the mod fouthern parts of the Highlands. In the weft, to-
wards Ben Lomond, micaceous fchillus alio abounds ; but that mountain
is chiefly of gneifs, and the like features are found in the peninfula of
Caiitire. In the north of Argylefhire appears the beautiful red granite,
which chiefly conllitutes the central chain, already indicated; to the north
of which firll appears mi«aceous fchillus, and afterwards a remarkable
i.oiirfe of pudding-llone, exteniling from Loch Nefs to Oban. The muuiu
liiius in the north have been little explored ; but Mr. Jamel'on tells us,
that the coall is diielly a coarfe argillaceous fand-ll6ne, often appearing
in tlie form of flags, w hilc in fome places are mafles of breccia, being
jiihbles of red granite, micaceous fchillus and quart/, in arenacous bafes.
Mount Scuraben is fand-llone, with a fummit of white quart/.. Morben,
;ii:J other mountains in this dillridl, from their white colour, feem to be
nt" the fame comnolition. About the Ord of Caithnefs aj-^jcar granite
,111(1 micaceous fcliillus.

The central and wellern parts of Si'therland and Rofsfhire have not
Invn explored; but it would feem that the well of Sutherland is chiefly
primitive lime-llone, The mountains feem to be of granite and micaceous
iVhillns, but often prefent the lingular feature of vail fummits formed
i.f white i|iiart/. Near Loch Broom is found that fort of granite which
IS hell adapted for mill-jtones.

Upon the whole it would aj)pear, that the chief, or granitic chain of
ilic Seotifh mountains, extends in a S. W. and N. E. direction, from Ben
Ntvis to Portfoy, In many parts it has funk or fublided, as is not un-
iiiual, but the line is marked by the gradual tranlitions from lime-ftone
and land-llone to micaceous fchillus, and thence to granite. Ben Nevis,
{.',iirii;f')rni, and otli»r lofty fummits, mark this prnuitive chain. The
(iriiinpians, which form the outer (Kirt of tliis chain, conlifl, according
tu a German mineralogillf, uf micaceous lime-llonc, gneifs, porphyry.

• Mr. Aikiii'i Notes.

f Kir^^ au'i Gcol. LIHiys, 48(>

C 4

fflVC,

SCOTLAND.

flat**, and granite, altcrnnting nith each other : and another German fays,
that the f'ndvuncntal rock of th-> country confifla of granitic aggregates.
The mouii' a n3 in the o. W. an* chi>.-f>y fchiltoi-., and the granite is grey,
and of an inferior kind ; but Mr. Williams informs us, that Ben Nevis,
and other mouatains in thnt quarter, are conipofed of elegant red granite,
in which the pale rofe, the bluih, anJ the yellowilh colours, are finely-
mixed and (haded *. The like granite is found at Portfoy and Trciip.
head, and is probably continued through the whole chain, the fuperior
height of th I region being m-Lirkod by the extreme rapidity of the river
Spey, This tendency of the leading chain is not only marked out by the
Grampians, but by that of the ifiunJs, and of the grand chain in Norway,
which, indeed, feems a contin\iatiuu of the Scotilh chain ; ani> tlie lalt,
probably, contains filvcr ai \v,\l an the Scandinavian. The U'.ountains on
the N. W. of the lakes N^f^ and Li.uiy, are probably only exterior ikirts
of the fame chai.i, and prefeat the ufual declenfion of mic jccous fchiilas,
terminating in hme-flone and fand-Hone, in the northern parts of SuthiT.
land and Caithnefs. The iflar.da of Shetland chieily prefent micaceous
fchiftus, interfperfed with a few maffcs of granite; and the Orkneys, 2ic,
confiil moftly of fandllor.e. Tlie weilern iflnids may be fuppofed to be
chiefly calcareous. It is remnrkable that the fpace from Invernefs to
DunoUa, on the weft, abounds with pudding-ilone, compofed of p'.hbles
of quartz, probably wuflieddown from the granitic chaiii, and after >vard$
cemented by fome unknown procejs of nature, cither by iron or filiceous
earth.

General Roy mentions two remarkable features of the Highlands: firft,
the moor of Ranuoch, a higli def.rt of twenty miles ftjuare, on the S.E,
of Den Nevis, a flat uninhabited morafs. Tlie fecond is part of tlie N.W.
coaft txtenJing from Locli I.ichnrd, twenty,four miles to the font}',
breadth about ten miles, which proft-'uts a moil fingular appearance, as if
mountains had been broken into fragments, interfperfed with pools of
water.

F0KKSTS.3 The forrfts of Scotland are very rare, in the proper acccpta.
tion of the term ; and the Sylv:iCaledoii;i has long iince v.niiflied. The
wliole comity of Slkirk w;'.', formerly d'Mominated l.ttric forell. There
was alfo aco.:fiderablef<)n.'!t, that of Mar, in the well of Aberdeenfliiro,
wlierorow .> n.ihistlie fi.;r.'il of Aberii"thy|-,'">.teMding to Cairngorm. In
th:? C(.unty 0/ Su'.h.rl lid was the fir- ll of Sl'-tadalc, on tlu* iiorlh c,t
Du;:rob .1, the Kat of the r:\rh of Sutherland ; arid in tht- north of tlie
fam** co'Jiity, are marked l*<.iIi"-forefl, betv.wn Afhir and Dunan ; to the
foutli oi' wh'cli Wire Reay I'orell, or that of Dirrynion- : wit!i thufo of
DirryiiKire and X)irryn-,eiia, on thi* north iind foutli of Locli Sc'iiii. No
other fyreft occurs till wr reach the county of Argjlc, wliich cuntaiin
13oHch;ltirc forell on the n Mrtli.

BorAVY.] Plaving given a general account of the indigenous plants nf
KnglanJ, it will fullice, for the botany of Scotland, to point out the
jMrticulara iii which the two floras differ, together witli the caufe of the
diflerciice.

* Milivr.it King. II, n. Fiom 3 psr-rread hy Dr. Mickiiipfit, rt a mfciln* of
ill Wtni'iiiii Si«.kty nf Idm'uiji, Mjio'i 1810, it ai'i'Mrs, th.it tdc hjfc 0}" M i^
^.«^i> Ik I'J piieij ,41 J imcj-niM. «liuli is followeil by tlio lyriiiti' of Wern.r, or t nin-
ti.r.' ( f (*ll|ur 4MiJ liuriibleiid : w!>ile ilic l'ii|i'.iior )»)rtiiiii «)f .^ duk grey colour fecmt
In ,tc|>rivn|) to co.nj»adt It lijur, iiuitiirtitly .i.iuglcJ wjili huiablvjuj. — »NuhuUou'» Jduiuj'.

T li^. of Mo(4y, Abei, I7<;8. 8vo. p. id;.

Th^

The
it being
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are bur
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We mig
ill Scot]
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of live or
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'i-^cd breri

a:id Gullu

SCOTLAND.

Tlie northern part of Britain differs from the fouthern as to climate,
it being colder and more rainy ; and as to foil, in confifting chiefly of
niountai.ious, granitic, or micaceous dilhnfts, the higheft peaks of which
are buried in perpetual I'now. There arc no chalk-hills in Scotland ;
nor any of that foil which charaiStcrifes the fouth-eaftcrn part of the
idand, and is compofod, for the moil part, of fand and.c-ilcai ous marl.
We might therefore, a priori, cxpeA to meet with more alpine plants
ill Scotland than of tliofe which flourifli bcft in a light, chalky foil, and
ilia mild climate ; this is fdnd to be in fa£t the cafe. The greater
lujnbor of vegetable fpecios is the fame in both countries ; but the
wann, moid region of Cornwall, Dovoiifhire, and Dorfct ; the range
of cli iil:-hills on each fide of the valley of the Thames; the dry, fandy
tracts ol Norfolk, Suffolk, and Cambridgo, and the fens of Lincolnfliire
Cii-.itaia many plants that are unknown to Scotland : as, on tlic other
huud, the fnowy fummits of the Grampians, the extcnfive forells of
rjucl.noch and Braemar, ^nd ihc bleak, fl^eltcrkfs rocks of the Hcbudcs,
poffv.'fs many liardy vegetables which are not to be found in England.
Sualh Britain contains a greater number of fpccies peculiar to itfelf ;
but thole tliat are finulurly circumilanccd in the northern part of tlie
ili;uid, are of more frequent occuiTence, and therefore more charadtcr-
iitic : to the Engliih botanilt, Scotland will have more, the air of a
foreign country tliaii England will to a Scotifli naturalill. Amidft the
grand rcnianfc fcencry of the Highlands the f 'arch of the EnglifK
botanill is continually folicited and repaid by llie apj)carance of plants,
tulicr altogetlicr new to him, or which he has been acculloincd to coii-
fuler a;; th? r.ivc reward of minute invciligation. In travorfing the vail
iraturul fonds of birch and pine, although his notice will bcfirll attraiEted
i;y the trees themfelves, in every llage of growth, fnim the limber fap-
li.ig to the hare and weather-beaten trunks that have endured the llorms
ot live or lix hundred winters, yet tlu: new forms of the himibler vege-
ti'ples will loo 1 divide his attention: the red and white bloffoms of thft
tr.iilii!g/..'«//<ru, tlie Pyro/n jWunJat nwd t(;:!/!ori:y Sutyr'ium repcus, Ophrys
arj'''j;':izii, and Conviillaria vtrtirHLini, will cucli allradt their fharc of
regard. The moil! and Ihady rccLfll-s of t'-e llate mountains ;u*e carpeted
by the three Fcroniias, the /i/pirui, tlu- J'ixti/i.':s, and /nilicuh/h. The
moinitainous d.ilrict:'. of granite are peei'liarly rich in alnine plants; the
Kdgcj and creviles of tlie rock;; an adurued by tufts of the goldtn
cin(iu;^-foil, and luxuriant feitoons of tin- yhiutiis ii/pir.u, and Jfrliilut
uvii itr/t, glowing witli their fcarU-t ar.d d ep blue berries among their
pIoiTy I •av»;i. Tlie eloud-b.rry, an*' fume oi' thi- AV^v.'j, flourilh amidlt
t!i'.' hiow and folitud'- of»the juoll cltvatod fummits ; and afford at the
finv tinij fii -Uer arid food fur tlie Ptarnvgan, almoil the only one of
our native birds tliat can i:;hab;t fo colil a lit nation. Tlie Lowlands of
Scotland feem to contain no plants which vvv not found in iimilar foila
iu Ivighmd ; the fi'a-c lall, how -ver, exhibits tw(» inibelliferous vegeta-
Mes: the L'l^iiJI'uinn Sc</tit:uiHy,.\ui\ Impiriitoriu Ojlruthluiih which cannot
l)j in't witljo.i the foiithern lli;»re.

ZooLociV.] The Zoology of Scotland prefents little remarkable, aa
diilind from xnwX of England. Tiie Imull horfcs of Calloway fecm to
liave bren a primitive l-/;\v(l, and, in diminutive fi/.e, are exceeded by
thofe «)f S!i' tiand. The catlle ia Galloway are oftv*n without horn,!, a
deJ'eC) v^'hiili is luppoti'd to be reconipenlVd by t!jc fiiperior quantify
and quality of the milk. The kylif^, as already meatitniid, area middlc-
fi/cd breed fVo::i llie province of Kyle, and other dillr.Cts of Ayrlhire
and Galloway, Oil ihtt c.lll arc found larjje cattle of voriouii breedx.

The!

SCOTLAND.

The flieep are fmaller and fliorter than thofe of England ; thofe of
Shetland are remarkable for the finencfs of the wool, which is, however,
interfperfed with coarfer piles. Goats are not fo numerous in the Hig!u
lands and ifles as might be expected.

Of wild animals, the wolf has been extirpated in Scotland only fince
the year 1 680. The wild cat is ftill occafionally found ; the other
claffes correfpond with thofe of England, except that the Roe is ftiH -
not unfrequent. Among the birds, eagles are not unknown, nor ele-
gant falcons. The (hores and iflands prefcnt numerous kinds of fea-foAvI.
Scotland abounds with fifhof all kinds, and contributes great fuppljis
to the Englifh market, particularly in lobfters and falmon. The Irani',
parent lakes, rivers, and rivulets, prcfent a beautiful variety of fifh ; on
the northern and weik-rn coafls are numerous feals. The whale fome-
times appears, and the baflciiig fliark frequently plays in the weftern
inlets. Pearls are found in the rivers Teith and Ythan, in a large kind
of mya or mufcle. Many beautiful zoopliites, on the noi-thorn (Iioriii,
have been found and introduced to public notice by Mr. Cordiner.

MiNKHALOGY.] The fmall quantity of gold found in Scotland fins
been procured from the Lead hills, which are mo Illy conipofed of cnarfc
flate. None worth mentioning has been met with recently. The fiKcr
found in Scotland has hitherto been of little account : the chief mine was
that at Alva, which has fmce only afforded cobalt. Nor can Scotland hoalt
of copper, though a fmall quantity was found in the Ochills, near Alva,
vith filver and cobalt : and it is faid that the illands of Shetland oliVr
fome indications of that metal. Copper has alfo been found at Colvend,
in Galloway ; at Curry, in Lothian j at Oldwick, in Caithnefs ; and
Kiflern, in Rofslhire.

The chief minerals of Scotland are lead, iron, and coal. The lead-
mines in the fouth of Lanarkihire have been long known. Thofe of
Wanlock-head are in the immediate neighbourhood, but in the county
of Dumfries. Some flight veins of lead have alfo been found in the
iveflern Highlands, particularly Arran. Iron is found in varions part.
<if Scotland ; the Carron ore is the moll known, it is an argillaceous
iron-Uone, and is found in flaty mafles, and in nodules, in an adjacent
coal-mine, of which it fometimes forms the roof. At the Carron works
this ore is often fmeltcd with the red greafy iron ore from Ulverllon, in
Lancafliire, which imparts ealier fufion, and fupcrior value. Calamine,
or zinc, is alfo found at Wanlock-head ; and it in faid, t^at pluinbagu
and antimony may be traced in Scotland.

But the chief minend is coal, which lias been worked for a fuccefllon
of ages. Pope Pius IL, in his defcription of Europe, written about
1450, mentions, that he beheld with wonder, b%ick Hones given as ulrns
to th. poor of Scotland. The Lothians, and Fifelhire particularlv
abound with this ufeful mineral, which alfc extends into Ayrfhire ; anj
near Irwin iti found a curious variety called ribbon coal.

In pafilng to the lefs important minerals of Scotland, the new earlli
originally found at Stronlian, and called after the name of the place,
dcferves the firil notice. Fine ilatiiary marble is found in AfTynt, and
the marble of Tiree ranks among the moil beautiful varieties. Pt)rtfoy
affords peculiarly fine ferpentine, and the pebbles of Agate and C;iK
cedony, in the jieighbourhood pf Dunbur, are much valued by the
lapidaries.

MiNKHAl. Watkrs.] The mineral waters of Scotland are numeroiis,
but none of equal fame with thofe of England. The chief are Moffat
wells in the fouth, and thole of IVttrhcud in the north.

NA'fLIut

SCOTLAND,

9«

JfATURAL Curiosities.] Scotland, like other mountainous countries,
abounds with lingular fccnes, and natural curiofities. Tl^e beautiful falls
of the Clyde, near Lanark, have defervedly excited much attention,
Tho beauties of Loch Lomond have been fo often defcribed, that it is
iinneceffary to repeat fo trivial a theme. The rocks off the coail of
/^I)crdecnfhire often afl'ume lingular forms of arclies and pillars, of which
the Bullers of Buchan are the moll remarkable; and the fpace from
Trouphead to Portfoy abounds in uncommon rocks, Bud lingular marine;
produftions,

SCOTISH ISLES.

The illands that belong to Scotland are numerous and important, and
tall naturally into three grand divilions : the Hebudes*, or Wellera
Ifl:inds ; the Orkneys ; and the iflands of Shetland.

On pafTing the conic rock, called Ailfa, towards the north, two
beautiful i Hands adorn the Firth of Clyde, thofe of Arran and Bute f.
Tlie tirll is about twenty-three miles in length, by nine in breaoth, aud
has 7000 inhabitants. • The chief place is the village of Ranza ; and
iirodie caltle is'memorable in hillory. The exports are black cattle and
barley:}:. Mr. Jamefon has recently publilhcd an account of this ifland,
particularly its mineralogy, from which it appears tliat it is a mountain-
ous region : and Goatfell is near 3COO feet in height. The fouthern
parts of the illand prefent low and cultivated groiuids.

Bute is about tv.clve miles in length, by four in breadth ; inhabitants
about 4009 ; the chief town is Rothfay, and in the vicinity is Mount
Stuart, the ornamnitej relidence of the Marquis of Bute, and worthy
of the dillinguilhed talle of the noble proprietor.

To the well of the Cherfonefe of Cantire, begin the Hebudes, or
Wcftcrn Illands, properly fo called. The tirll is Hay, about the fame
k'ligtli as Arran, but nearly eighteen miles in breadth. Hay produces
many black cattle, which are exported, and fometimes pafs as far as
E'igland || ; but the Iheep are rare. Small hcrfes are much ufed, as the
toiintry is not very mountainous. This ille belongs to Mr, Campbell,
of Sliawfield. Inhabitants about 7000. Lead mines were here dif-
covored in the fand-llone, 1763 ; this lead is, as ufual, mingled witll
lilvcr.

Jura is divided from the lad by a narrow found ; it is about twenty
miles in length, but the breadth feldom more than live. It is one of
the moll rugged of the Hebudes, which, in general, are mountainous
regions, Thi- paps of Jura, a line of conic hills, prefent a Hngular ap-
pearance ; tliey are on the wellorn lide of the illand, and almoll bare of
vegetation ^". The bell crops are potatoes and barley ; and the ille con-
tains abundance of peut. The cattle are fmall, but the flieep excellent.
The noted gulph i-r whirlpool of Brecan or Corryvrekan, is on the north*
rrn extremity of .lura ^.

To the well of .lura are the iHes of Oranfa and Colonfa ; and the
ilrait between them being dry at low water, they may be confidered ag
.)iu' illand, about ten miles in length. The foil is generally light and
ui.ible, producing bafl*/ «i>J potatoes. X'**-" venerable ruins of the au-

* This namf was rorniptcil hy lienor Boyre, Into Hchrldei.

+ I'cnnniit'i Voyage, 168. ^ Statift. Accnunt, rol. ix. p. 169.

I! S. A. «i. 178. i S. A. sii. Ji8.

fl Koo\*$ \'w\v, li. 451,

i| tiuaC

9«

SCOTLAND.

cient monaftery of Canons regular in Colonfo now cxift: no longer ; tut
thofe of the curious priory in Oranfa Itill remain*.

The next ifle of any confcquence is that of Mull, one of the largeft
of the Hebudea, and furroundcd with fmalkr interolliiig iflands. Mull
is about t\rcnty-cight miles in length, by a medial breadth of about
cightce:]. An intelligent traveller informs us, that the population it
about 7000 f. On the N. E. is the new village of Tobermory.

The mofl: curious objcfts in the vicinity of Mull are, Icolm-kill and
Staffa. Hyona, or Icolm-kill, is about three miles long, by one broad,
and is venerable as the primitive feat of Scotifli literature and religion,
founded by St. Columba in the fixtli century. Its hiftory and ruins Iaivc
been often defcribcd ; but it may be added, from a recent traveller, that
the ifle produces beautiful white marble, and large blocks of indurated
fteatites.

Staffa, about fix miles to the N. of Hyona, was firft introduced to
public notice by .Sir Jofeph Banks. Buchanan has mentioned the ile,
but not its grand fiiigularities, its beautiful bafaltic columns, and one of
the mofl furpnfing objtcls of nature, the vaft bafaltic cavern, called
Au-ua-vine, or the harmonious grotto, either from a melodious found,
produced by the percuiVion of th-' waves at the fi:rthefl extremity, or
rirom the exaft order in v+iieh the columns are difpofed;]:. Height of
the entrance fifty-fix feet, breadth thirty-five, thickuefs of the exterior
vault twenty. The depth, or length of the cavern is no lefs than 140
feet.

To the N.W. of Mull are tlie ifles of Tirey and Col, the former
producing a mofl beautiful marble, of a rofe-colour,, penetrated with
fmall irregular chryflals of green hornblende, and which the French
naturalills have, from the name of the ifle called Tirite, no fimilar
marble being any where found. Tirey is generally plain and fertile;
Col, on the contrary, is rocky, but has feveral fmall lakes, replenifhed
with fifh.

Another group confifls of Skey, in the Scandinavian ftyled Skua,
and the furroundmg ifles. Skey is the largefl of the Hcbudes, being
about forty-five Engjifh miles in length, and about twenty-two in
breadth. Inhabitants about 15,200; chief exports black-cattle and
fmall horfes : the land, as ufaal in the Hebudes, rough and hilly. The
houfjs are chiefly turf, covered with grafs. The wee of the country
wild, heathy, and deluged with continual rains. To the fouth of Skcv
are tlie ifles Rhum and Eig ; and to the N. E. of Skey are Raza ani
Scalpa. The other ifles in this group ofl'er little memorable. Canna
and Eig contain bafaltic pillars, and in the former is Compafs hill, which
ftroiigly affedls the needle.

It now remains to give fomc idea of the 'Xtcrior chain of the Weflern
Ifles, forming, as it were, a barrier againfl the i^tlantic. Two fmall
and remote ifles have attradted confiderable notice. The firft is that of
Rona, about twelve leagues to the N. W. of Cane Wnith, and about
thirty leagues VV. from the Orkneys. This little ifle, with its companioa
Sulifka, or Bara, Ikis almofl efeaped from the Scotifh maps, being httle
known, and rarely vifit- d. In tlielafl century, Sir Qeorge M'Ken:'!ie,
•f Tarbat, afterwards Earl of Cromarty, drew up a fliort account ut'

• Sfat. Ace. xii. 317,

f St. I'oiid, tDino ii. p. 89.

"l lb, ttnic ii. p. 5y.

R)na,

Rona, (r
only of i
Thefi
notice, e
about fix
a half Ion
to the V
fnigular a
attention.
Having
plan here
principal :
by twent]
elevated r
the fhores
or fouth e
called a fo
to introdu
Stornaway
Stornaway
an excelle
hoiifes cov(
rain, as ufi
fiJerable fif
will thrive!
but there ai
horfes.

To the 1
length fror
recent difco
other impro
Scotifh geo
with that of
rally cultiva
the year.

The fmal
South Vifl
by about tcr
alfo throug
iiud vcrtlure.
are many fm
and kelp.

No accou
^udcs, the ai
tioble propri
that fcicnce,
year iSootl
jflaiid of I
Mr. Hcadri
forth the pi
Mtradled.

• \fonro'i
T.'io .Stat. Ace.

SCOTLAND.

[kua,

leing

and

The

mtry

ISkcv
ana
anna
hich

;ftern
fmall
Ihat of
labout
^aniou
little
len?.ie,
luut of

lionai from the oral information of inhabitant?, at that time confifling
only of five families *.

The fmall ifle of Hirta, or St. Kilda, mull have attraftcd mucli
notice, even in Leflcy's time, for in his map he has reprefented it as
about fix times the fize of Skey, whil? in truth it is only two miles and
a half long, by one mile in breadth. St. Kilda is about twelve leagues
to the weft of North Vi(l ; and has been repeatedly defcribed, tlic
fingular and fimple manners of its inhabitants having excited confiderable
attention.

Having thus briefly mentioned thefe remote and little vifited iflcs, the
plan here followed muft be refumed by fome account of I.euis, the
principal ifland of the wellcrn chain. It is about fifty miles in length,
by twenty in breadth. The face of the country confiils of a heathy
elevated ridge full of morafies from the S.W. to N. E.; but near
the fliorcs are feveral verdant vales capable of cultivation. The Hams,
or fouth end of this ifle, is flill more mountainous, and prcfents what is
called a foreft, becaufe fome deer are there found. James VI. attempted
to introduce induftry into the Hebudes by planting a Dutch colony at
Stornaway, in Leuis ; but it was foon extirpated by the Inhabitants.
Stornaway is, however, now a confiderable and fiov.rifhing town, with
an excellent harbour. Befides cottages, there are about feventy
houfes covered with flate. The feafons in Leuis are oppreffed with
rain, as ufual iu the weilern Highlands and iiles ; but there is a con-
fiderable fifhery. The crops are oats, bigg, and potatoes ; no trees
will thrive except alder and 'mountain afli ; and hardly a fhrub appears :
but there are many black cattle and flieep ; nor is there any want of finoQ
horfes.

To the fouth of Leuis is North Vift, about twenty-^iwo miles i:i
length from E. to W. and about fevcnteen in breadtli N. to S., for
recent difcovcrics have relloivd this illeto its proper form, among many
other improvements which have taken place within thefe few years in
Scotilh geography. The face of the country correfponds in general
with that of Leuis ; and trees are ctjually unknown. Potatoes are gene-
rally cultivated. Weik-rly wlnds^ with rain or fog, ufurp two-thirds of
the year, l^ord Maedonald is the pn)pri^'ti.r f.

The fmall ifle of Benbecula, and fome others, lie betwixt North aiid
South Vill ; the latter is about twenty-three mil.'s in length N. to S.
by about ten in breadth W. to E. The morafTy central chain extends
alfo through this ifle ; but to the eall are di y hills covered with heath
;uid verdure. The produdl^jus alfo rufemble thofe of Leuis ; and there
are many fmall lakes full of excellent trout. Chief cjwporls, black cattl*
and kelp. Tliis ifle is alfo naked of r.ood.

No account having appeared of the mincralorjy of the exterior IL'-
V.ides, the author was anxious to remedy that defeiJt, and applied to the
noble proprietor the Earl of Seaforth, who is hinifelf converfant with
that fcience, and wha kindly remitted fome interelling materials. In the
year 1800 there was privately printci^ at Edinburgh, a ♦« Report of the
iflaiid of Leuis, and Eftates of Kintai^ and Lochaldi, by the Rev.
Mr. Hcadrick, coutained in letters to the Right lion. Lord Sea-
forth the proprietor ;" from which the mincralogieal portion fliall be
extradled.

R )na,

• Nfonro'j Dcrciipt. of t*ie W. Idei, in r
T!io Mat. AiT. xix. 2;i, n^cis u ith iij.
\ iit4t. Acc. «i i. 300.

SA9- Eiin 17:4. HuoUecm ?, p. 63.

" A vast

■^4

SCOTLAND.

** A vafl body of breccia, or coarfe plum-puddinff flonej nins fi-oni
ih^ weft of Arniih to beyond Grace. The ftones of which it is com-
Jjofed have evidently been worn and rounded in the bottom of the fea.
The harder fpecies of this ftone are cemented by filex and iron, which
feem to have undei'jijonc a partial vitrification. In other parts, the ce-
ment rs an indurated clay, which diffolves by the weather. In the pe-
ninfulaT about Aignifli, and on the oppofite fliore, near Back, the ce-
ment is a red calcareous clay, or fpecies of clay-marl, which (lightly
eftervefces with an acid.

*' Through this body of plum-pudding Hone run various veins of fpar
of lime. There are alfo various veins of whinftonC, running nearly
from fouth to nortlu Tlie moll remarkable of thcfe is one to the call
of Grace, and which alfo appears on the oppofite fliore near Garra-
boft. It is compofed of large cubical Hones, arranged in the form of
a regularly built wall. There is another remarkable dyke of this fort
at Stornaway, on part of which the old caftle Hands. There it af.
fumes the fliape of rude columnar bafalt.

" To the eail of Grace, where this plum-pudding rock joins the
granite, I found a body of limeftone interpofed betwixt them : alfo,
below Garraboft, where the plum-pudding rock is cut oft* on that fide,
I found a vein of fpar of linle. To thefe veins of limeftone I impute
the ftalactites, and italagmitic incruftations, which are found in the feal
cove of Grace, and in many other caverns which the fea has formed
along thefe coafts

" At the head of the bay, fouth-eaft from Aignifti, the plum-pud-
ding ftone exhibits a fitialler grain, like red freeftone, and is arranged
iu regular ftrata. j\\l the plum-pudding rocks are ftratified ; thougli
moft of the ftrata are of great thicknefs, and many of them irregular.
They are interfccled by cracks, which run either from eaft to weil or
from north to fouth.

*' The plum-pudding rock is cut off towards Chicken Point and at
Garraboft by a very mattery fpecies of lava, which includes veins of
iron ftone, and in foine places of terras, or pu/'/olaue earth. The fame
ajjpears at Tolfla Point, and in fome places on the weft fide of Nefs.

" All the other rocks I have feen in Leuis are granites, of various
fpecies and qualities. Near Stornaway they are extremely fliattery and
full of cracks. Towards Birken Illes Loch, or Loch Erifort, they he-
come micaceous ; towards Loch Dungeon, and in various parts of Loch
Seaforth, they are arranged in thick ftrata, which might aftbrd good
ftones for building. Thefe rocks inclfide many beautiful filiceous
cryftals, and nodi:les of chalcedony. ,

" All thefe rocks are interf-d'tcd by veins or dykes of whin-ftonc,
which run ncar'y from fouth to north, inclining a few points towards
north-weft and fouth-eaft. Some of thefe veins are decompofed by the
weather. Others are compofed of ilones built into the form of a regular
wall, like that at (*race, and a few affeft a columjiar form. Many of
thefe veins, efpecially in the di^lridl of Uig, are filled with talcite, a
very hard porous fpecies of Hone, of which tliey make mill-ftones. In
fuch cafes, the interftices are filled with a foft fpecies of talc, in fmall
lamin:p, called hcrcjjjcfp*sfi!iur.

" In the mouniains of II ig are many veins of this foft talcky matter,
and alfo in other placi's ; ior they all run acrofs the country in the di«
rcCliyii already fpccified.

^ ' "With

The bafal
«^<' "ot complete
«ilke plage ill bi

SCOTLAND.

lonc«

?ards

|y the

rular

ly of

In
IfrnftU

latver,
lie «i"»'

*« With the whin-ftonc veins or dykes already mentioned, which in-
terfc6l the rocks, are conneAed veins of fpar of lime. Many of thcfe
alfo include veins of iron-llone, or ore of iron.

« The molt curious veins of that fort are at Rebbock Head, and
woftward. There I found the moft beautiful, regularly formed, and
ftuii-tranfparent rhomboidal cryftals of lime, both arranged in veins, and
alfo in detached nodules, in the hollows of the rocks. In fimilar hol-
lows I faw alfo nodules of chalcedony,' which on one fide adhered firmly
to the rock, and even included loofe chips of Hone ; on the othet tide
they appeared blillery, like feme metals which (brink after fufion.
Here alfo I faw a vail viiin, conipofed of rounded Itones, which are
cemented by means of fpar of lime, regularly cryltidlized.

" Befides the whin-ftone and talcky veins which interfeft the granite,
tlicre are iimumerable veins of filiceous fpar ruiniing in all diro(£tions.
There are alfo veins of foft micaceous fchiftus, chiefly towards Loch
Seaforth, which feem to indicate that veins of flate are not remote.

•' The Schaut Ifles are certainly the greateft cvuiofities my eyes ever
contemplated ; and were they known, men fond of viewing all that is
grand and uncommon in the produtlions of nature, would come from the
remotell corners of the world to fee them.

" They confi ft of two ranges or llrata of bafaltes placed above each
other, with limeftone, fchiftus, and a ftratum- that feems to be fulphur,
or hepar of lime, interpofed between them. This laft ftratum lias al-
ways been taken for common •limeftone by the people, which it very
much refembles ; but it does not efFervefce with acid, and contains thin
veins of beautifully cryftallized gypfum, formed from its oxygenation
within its cracks and cavities.

" The limeftone is of three colours, blue, whitifh-grey, and fparrj'.
Much of it is contaminated by martial pyrites, beautifully cryftallized,
and many of them indented into each other in a curious manner. The
limeftone, and feveral. of the rocks contiguous to it, contain various
fpecies of fea-fliells, petrified, and of tlie moft perfeft form. The lime-
iioiie and other ftrata appear at various points along the north fide of
Garve I Hand. They appear alfo in the neck that joins a remarkable
black rock with that iiland, where there is a commodious bav, witli

good anchorage.

" This black rock is a ledge of bafaltes, lefs perfectly fornied tliaii
the mafs which refts upon it. It is the bafis, or inferior ftratum, on
which the colnmiw of the Garve Ifland reft. It dips rapidly to the
I'outh-weft, and rifes to the north-eaft. This rock has a remarkable
natural arch under it, which is the common paflage for boats.

" Pafllng over to the Green I (land, wliicli projects a lodge of rock,
covered by the tide, to meet the black rock, we find it wholly compofed
of the fame fort of bafalt with the latter. It every where affects a con
lumuar appearance, though the columns are rude and ill-formod.

" On Its north-weft corner are feen all the ftrata of fchiftus and lime-
(lone, which run below the columns of Garve Kland. 0;i the fouth-weit
lide the limeftone projects like a vein ; and there is iiere a vaft mafs of
excellent clay marl, formed from its decompofition. Above this place
a vaft body of fchiftus is ex poled to view: it refembles that which ac-.
companies coal, only more indurated ; and, like coal fchiftus, it con-
liiins many ftrata of iron-ftonc.

" The bafaltic columns of Garve Iiland, though ama/.ingly high,
«re not completely ^etached, with fmooth furfaces and regular joints, at^
t;ike place in bnfaltK columns of the moft perfect kiild. "Tl.ey have all

St ;light

SCOTLAND.

a fl'ght inclination towards the fouth-wcft, and are interfered f)v vn<.
nous cracks or planes, running moftly at an angle of /j.^ witii thcr
columns. A tail of rocks prdje<fts towards the fouth-wcit trom Garve,
which exhibits many whimfical varieties of bafaltcs. In one rock thtv
are wav^d, rifing at an angle of about 45% but are fuddenly bent into a
perpendicular afcent, without any vilible fradlure, or rupture of their
continuity'. In aiiot'icr rock they arc tlirown ai.noft into a horizontal
pofition, with tlie oi:ds of the Columns flicking out towards the north
as if the rock had been overtui-ned by more than gigartic force. Tv.o
columnar rocks projodl boldly from the fea, refembling two nuiTy
fquare towers, wliich defy the fury of the waves.

" On the north-eall corner of Donald Bane's Ifland, or Y-kill, which
is joined to Garve by a narrow neck, there are fevcral clufters of bafaltic
columns of the mofl: perfect kind. They {land perpendicular, arc pir-
feiSlly fmooth, extremely hard ; iire moftly five-iided, with their angle:
cut off; and are as perfedl as if ft,rmcd by the moft fkilful mafon. They
are regularly joined at the fame horizontal elevation. Some ranges do
not exceed eight or ten inches in height, from joint to joint ; the reft arc
ft*om three to four feet. The joints are moil curioufly formed : evcrv
lower piece has a fmooth cavity on the upper end, which is exadlly filled
by tliu' convexity of the piece which refts upon it. Thefe bafaltic rocks
contain many nodules of zeolite, and various filiceous cryftals.

" The foil of thcfe iflands, where it is not naturally wet, is excellent,
and produces every fpccics of fweet grafles without culture. The only
exception to this remark is a part of the Green Ifland, where the foil
refts upon the fchiftus already defcribed. The foil formed from the dc.
compofition of bafalt is univerfally good.'*

The granite of the f^nii^ is of a vail variety of colour and grain, but
chiefly 11 ick and red of a fine grain. In many places it is mixed with
much mica, and with quartz, felfpar, &c. in detached portions, where
in fome fpots it contains great quantities of fchorl. It is interfeSod
with many dykes or veins of bafalt. In the moifes or peat-moors, which
are numerous, there is abundance of bog ore of iron. The iflcs of
North and South Vift and Barrow are fuppofed to be of a fimilar ftnic-
ture with Leuis and Harris. In North Vift there is a large track of
fea-fand, which might be valuable in making glafs. It muft not be for-
gotten that the ifle of Leurs produces, in the parifh of Nig, that fcarce
mineral molybdena. Dr. Walker has fomewhcre alFerted, that the little
ifte of Bernero confifts of amianthus, but this information feemsto have
been derived from fome ignorant obferver, who may perhaps have mif-
taken a decayed fchorl for that fubftance.

The iflands of Orkney and Shetland remain to be defcribed. The
Orkneys form a numernus group around the Main I^and, or what, hj
forae new and fabulous ti rin, is called Pomona*. The Main Land is
about twenty-five mil-? in length E. to W. by about thirteen in breadth
N. to S. Kirkwall, the cluef town of the Orkneys, contains ^bout
three hundred houfes, rr.d has n ftatcly cathedral dedicated to tit. 1
Magnus. Oppoiitc Hands the bifliop's palace, now called a caftlc.
The cliief exports of Kirkwall are beef, pork, butter, tallow, hides I
calf (Icins, rabbit ikin;-, falted fifli, oil, feathers, linen yarn, and coarfe
linen cloth, kelpf, and in fruitful years corn. The chief imports are

• The old accounts .ire \\'.il!r!Cc's 1693, anJ Brniid's 1701 } the modern, the Stj.
tlUc Survey.

f -auha prcil'.irps i;it:i' qwiintitlis of kolp ; when the Urkaeys in general may yield!
ajoo tons, jcc H.il 60C1 .ire d:js\ii innn tli ii iflc ouly. 6. ATvii. 4JJ. I

woodJ

SCOTLAND.

vtrbodi flax» coal, fugar, fpirits, wines, tobacco and fnuiF, flour, and
bifcuit, foap, leather, hardwares, broad clotli, printed linens and cot-
tons. In 1790 ^^^ exports were valued at 26,598/., and the imports at
20,803/. The manufaftures are linen yarn, and coarfe linens, and kelp :
this lalt was introduced about fixty years ago, and has been fince diffufed
over the Highlands and ifles. In moft parts of the main land the
foil is good, though (hallow, with a calcareous bottom. The horfes
are fmsul, but fpinted ; and the cows, though alfo fmall, yield excellent
milk. The (heep in the iflands of Orkney are computed at 50,000.
Swine alfo abound, of a dirty white colour, and diminutive fize. The
numbers of fca-fowl may be eafily imagined. The Norfe language has
yielded to the Englifh, and the manners of the people are fingularly ci-
vilized for fo remote a region. The Ward hill of Hoy, the higheft in
this region ( 1620 feet). Hands in the ifland of the fame name, the S. E.
promontory of which is erroneoufly called Walls in the Englifh maps,
inilead of the native name Waes : near its bottom is the noted dwarfy
ftone, about 34 feet long, by 1 7 broad, and 8 high, hollowed out by
art, probably for the refidence of fome hermit.

The inhabited iflands of Orkney are computed at twenty-fix, and the
people at 23,053* ; the bafe is chiefly fand ftone, as appears from Mr.
Jamefon's recent Mineralogy of the Scotiih ifles.

The iflands of Shetland prefent another group fimilar to thofe of
Orkney, with a main land or chief ifland in its centre. The main land
is much interfered by the fea ; and is about fifty-ftven miles in length,
by about ten or twelve miles of medial breadth f. The other ifles are
generally fmall, yet twenty-fix are faid to be inhabited. " On viewing
« thefe iflands in general, a wonderful fcene of rugged, bleak, and bar-
« ren rocks prefents itfelf to our view. No tree or flirub is to be feen,
« to relieve the eye in wandering over thefe dreary fcenes. Sometimes,
" however, a few fcanty portions of cultivated ground catch the eye of
<' the traveller, exciting emotions of pleafure, and forming a ftriking
•< contraft to the barren heath-covered moun;.uns which flcirt them. The
** weftcrn part prefents many fcenes as wild and fterile as can well be
*' conceived ; grey rocks rifing from the midft of marflies or pools, and
** fliores bounded by awful fea-beat precipices, do not fail to raife in the
" mind ideas of defolation and danger.

" The coafts are in general rugged and precipitous, prefenting in
" many places fcenes truly grand and magnificent ; vaft rocks of various
" heights, dreadfully rugged and broken, oppofing their rude fronts to
" all the fury of a tempeftuous ocean ; which in fome places has formed
" great detached pillars, in others has excavated grand natural arches
" and caverns that mock all lluman magnificence, and ftrike the beholder
" with that awe and wonder which muft affedt every one on viewing
" thefe amazing wrecks of nature |."

p, the Su-|

may i^^A
vroodj

• S. A. XX. 611.

+ We have better charts of the coafts of New HoUnnd than of the ifles of Shet-
land. Captain Donnelly's chatt of the SI etiand iiles feems the moft accurate, in which
the Main land correfponds in length with Leuis, while Ainfley's would give a length
of almoft ninety miles. Yell and Unft feem alio more properly difpofed in Cap-
t»in Donnelly's map. 'S*ie Danifh Ciptain Von Lowenorn (Zach's Geographical
Journal, May, 1799) found that the Shetland ifles were about one-third lliorter than
I teprefented in the Engliftt map (Prefton's) ; which alfo puts the northern extremity
kilt" a degree further noflh than it was found by minute obfervations. Lowenorn pub-
liihed a map of thefe ifles in 1787. An interefting account of the Shetland ifles has
litely been pubtiflicd by Dr. EdmonftonQ, a voh. 8vo.

t Jamefoit's Min. p. t, j. 8vo.

••...' H Such

9»

SCOTLAND.

Such 18 the animated defcription of a late writer ; who adds, that the
eaft (Ide of the main land, and other ifles, is comparatively low, but the
weft lofty and rugged. Thig is well known to be the cafe with moft
mountains and iflands, becaufe the winds and tempefls from the well
have more power than thofe from the oppofite quarter.

The hills in Shetland are chiefly compofed of fand-ftone, breccia, &c.
The bafis feems gneifs, and micaceous fchiftuj, which are fometimes ex-
pofed to the air. Limedone is alfo found, and fome granite ; but, on
the whole, the mafs is arenaceous.

The climate of the Shetland iflcs is variable, and difturbed with rains
and thick fogs. The froits are feldom fevere, and fnow rarely continues
lone on the ground. Tlie inhabitants are indeed fufficiently wretched
without additional evils ; and a benevolent government ought to pay a
particular attention to thofe dift;int prifonera. The corrufcations of the
Aurora Borealis illuminate the long gloom of winter, and delight the
inhabitants, who call them merry dancers. The arable land is moftly
near the coaft, and produces a coarfe kind of oats and bigg. Potatoes
have lately formed an addition of fingular advantage. The chief food of
the inhabitants confifts of fifh, and various kinds of fea-fowl, which cover
the rocks : the captors of the laft (hew fingular (kill and intrepidity, and
often meet with a violent fate amidft the ftupendous precipices. The
cattle are rather larger than thofe of Orkney, and the butter is excellent
if properly prepared. Sheep are not uncommon, and have been recently-
praised for the finenefs of their fleece. The horfes have mettle and
beauty, and, on account of the fingular minutenefs of their fize, have
become obje£ls of luxury and curionty in England.

Lerwick, the chief town, or rather village, containing about 150 fa-
milies, ftands on an excellent harbour called Brafia Sound, formed by
the little ifle of Brafla, on the eaft of the main land, and formerly greatly
frequented by the Dutch fifliers.

The chief exports of Shetland are fifli of various kinds, chiefly her-
rings, -cod, ling, and torfk, or tufk. The inhabitants of the Shetland
iflands in 1798 were computed at 20,186*, more 'than the country can
well fupport. In this diitant region there are neither roads nor bridges,
which may be pronounced the firft fteps in any coimtry towards the pro-
grefs of induftry. The fame deficiency occurs in the Orkneys, and even
m the northern extremity of Scotland; where, however, a road has
been recently opened between Ullapool and Dornoch.

* StacAccxx. 6x2.

IRELANIK

( 99 )

IRELAND.

CHAPTER I.

lIISTOnrCAL GEOGRAPHY.

KamC' — Extent. — Original Population. — ProgreJJive Geography. —
Hijiorical Epochs. — Antiquities.

- '' J ^HE large and fertile ifland of Ireland, being Atuated to
NAMES.J ^ ^jjg ^^ q£ Great Britain, was probably difcovered by
ihe Phoenicians as early as the fitter ifland f and it appears that the ifland
was known to the Greeks by the name of Juverna, about two centuries
before the birth of Chrift. When Ciefar made his expedition into Bri-
tain, he defcribes Hibernia as being about half the fize of the ifland
which he had explored ; and while the Romans maintained their conqueftft
iji the latter region, Ireland continued of courfe to be well known to
them ; and Ptolemy has given a map of the ifland, which is fuperior in
accuracy to that which reprefents Scotland. Towards the decline of
the Weilern Empire, as the country had become more and more known*
and had been peopled with various tribes, the Romans difcovered that
the ruling people in Ireland were the Scoti ; and thenceforth the country
began to be termed Scotia, an appellation retained by the monailic
writers till the eleventh century, when the name Scotia having pafl*ed to
modern Scotland, the ancient name of Hibernia began to reaflume itd
honours. It is fuppofed that this name, and the Gothic denomination
Ireland, are mere modifications of the native term Erin, implying the
country of the weft.

Extent. ] The extent of this noble ifla«d is about 300 miles in length,
and about 180 at the greateit breadth. The contents in fquare miles
may be computed at 27,457* ; and the population being about threv
millious, there will be about 1 14 inhabitants to each fquare mile. •

Original Population.] It is probable that the original popula-
tion of Ireland paffed from Gaul, and was afterwards incrcafed by their
brethren the Guydil from England. About the time that the BelgsE
feized on the fouth of England, it appears that kindred Gothic tribe*
pafli^d to the fouth of Ireland. Thefe are the Firbolg of the Irifli tra-
ditions, and appear to have been the fame people whom the Romans de-
nominated Scoti, after they had emerged to their notice, by not only
extending their conquells to the north and eaft in Ireland, but had
begun to make maritime excurfions againil the Roman provinces in
Britain.

Progressive Geography.] The map of Ir iUnd by Ptolemy above
mentioned is the firft geographical document of the ifland. The ge-
neral (hape, rivers, and promontories are delineated with as much ac-
curacy as could have been expefted. Nay, as we advance into the
middle ages, the geography or Ireland becomes more obfcure. The
chief tribes mentioned by Ptolemy are the Dafni upon the north-eaft,
the Venicni and Robogdii on the north-weft. Beneath them are the
Nagnati, A uteri, and Gangani on the weft, the Erdini in the centre.

* Beaufort, {>. 14, ray^iJ0!iSfl4l|a|iiQui|i'ile«.

an4

mmm^^

lOO

IRELAND.

and the Voluntii, Eblani, and Cauci on the eaft ; fucceeded by tha
fouthern tribes of the Menapii, Brigantes, Bodii» Ivelni, Velabn, and
Luceni. Ptolemy alfo mentions ten towns; of which the chief is
Eblana, now Dublin. In the middle ages we find the Dalriadi on the
north-eaft, and the Crutheni on the north-weft. The large tribe of
Nelli occupy much of the centre. The Voluntii feem transformed into
the people of Ullagh ; the Erdini of Ptolemy yield the name to ArgiaUi •
and the Nagnati to Maigh Nais. The Gangani of Ptolemy feem the
Galeng of the middle ages. The Menapii, &c. muft be traced in Mu-
man, or prefent Munfter. The towns mentioned by Ptolemy might
alfo be traced with fome degree of accuracy.

The ravages of the Danes, in the ninth and following centuries, can.
not be fuppofed to throw mucli light on the progrefuve geography of
Ireland ; but the fettlements of the Enghfh under Henry II. certainly
contributed to th^t end, for Giraldus Cambrenfis at that period com-
pofed his defcription of Ireland, which, ■amidft numerous fables, con-
tains fome curious fa£ls ; and the geography of Ireland was little better
known till the reign of Elizabetn, when Stanihurft publiflied his de-
fcription, which was foon followed by that of Spenfer the poet. The
moft remarkable diftiniflion introduced by the new invaders into Ireland
was that of the EngliHi pale, or circuit of a few counties around Dub-
lin, within which the Enghfh language was chiefly fpoken. So incon-
fiderable, indeed, were the Englim poflefllons in Ireland, that the mo-
narchs only affumcd the ftyle of Loills of Ireland, till the reign of
Henry VIII. when King of Ireland became a part of the fovercign^j
ftyle. Nor was Ireland completely fubjugated till the reign of the firll
James, who adds this merit to that of founding the American colonies ;
but mankind will ever be infatuated by the triumphs of war, and prefer
a meteor to the pure light of a pacific reign.

Historical Epochs.] The firil hillorical epoch of Ireland is its
original population by the Celtic Gauls, and the fubtequent coloniza-
tion by the Belgx.

2. The maritime excurfions of the Scoti againft the Roman provinces
in Britain.

, 3. The converfion of Ireland to Chriftianity in the fifth century,
which was followed by a fiilgular efFcA ; for while the mafs of the people
retained all the ferocity ot favage manners, the monafteries produced '
many men of fuch piety and learning, that Scotia or Ireland became
celebrated all over Cnriltendom.

±. Tliis luftre was diminifhcd by the ravages of the Scandinavians,
which began with the ninth century, and can hardly be faid to have
ccafcd when the EngliHi fettlemcnt commenced. The iiland had been
fplit into numerous principalities, or kingdoms as they were ft) led ; and
though a chief monarch was acknowledged, yet his power was feldom
efficient, and the conftant diflcntions of fo many fmall tribes rendered
the ifland an eafy prey.

5. In the year I170, Henry II. permitted Richard Strongbow Earl
of Pembroke to cfTeft a fettlemcnt in Ireland, which laid the foundation
of the EiigliOi pofTcfTions in that country. There are however coins of
Canute, king of England, ftruck at Dublin, perh^s in acknowledg-
ment of his power by the Danifli fettlers.

6. Ireland began to produce fome manufadtures about the fourteenth
century, and krr-fayes, or thin woollen cloths, were exported to Italy.
It Ih probable that llicfe were produced by riie Briftolian colony, which
had palfcd to Dublinf as mentioned iu the defcription of England.

7. Richard

• See I,ed*ich's 1
"^my of C«Juw , iJ

IRELAND.

lOI

7. Richard II. king of England, attempted in perfon the conqueft of
Ireland, but being imprudent and ill ferved, nothing of moment was
effected. The fubfequent attempts of the EngliAi monarchs to accom<
pli(h this purpofe need not be enumerated.

8. In the reign of James I. Ireland became entirely fubjugated ; and
colonies of Engufli and Scots were eftabliflied in the north.

g. The chief mean of the aflimulation of the countries having been
coi.ipletely negle&ed, namely, the univerfal inftitution of parochial
fchools, for the education ot children in the proteftant religion and
Englifli language, the Irifli continued a diftinft people ; and, oeinig in-
ftigated by their fanatic priefts, executed their dreadful mafl'acre of the
Englifli fettlers in 1641. This infurreftion was not totally crufhed till
Cromwell led his veterans into Ireland.

10. The appearance of James II. in Ireland to reclaim his crown may
alfo deferve a place.

11. The amazing progrefs of Ireland in manufa6lures and commerce,
within thefe twenty years, may be claded as the moft illuftrious of its
hiftorical epochs.

12. The deplorable events which have recently happened in Ireland
have led the way to its union with Great Britain ; a meafurc which,
it is eagerly to be hoped, will be produ6tive of great reciprocal ad-
vantages.

Antiquities.] Upon a review of the more ancient of thafe hifto«
ileal epochs, and of the monuments which may be confidered as belong-
ing to each, it muft be confidered that the edifices having been con-
ftruAed of wood till the eleventh or twelfth century, it cannot be ex-
peded that any remains of them (hoiild exift. Stone was chiefly em-
ployed in the conftruAion of funeral cre£^ions of various kinds ; nor are
barrows wanting in Ireland, being hillocks of earth thrown up in com-
memoration of the illuftrious dead. Other monuments, commonly ftylcd
Druidic, may alfo be found in Ireland ; fuch as finglc ftones eredl, cir-
cular temples, or rather places of judgment, and tlie like, which may
more properly be afcribed to the Belgic colony *.

The converfion of Ireland to Chriilianity was followed by the erec-
tion of a vail number of churches and monaftcries, the latter being com-
puted to exceed one thoufand in number ; but all thefe edifices were ori-
ginally fmall, and conftrufted of interwoven withes, or hewn wood ; for
St. Bernard, in the twelfth century, mentions a itone church as a fm-
gular novelty in Ireland.

But the Scandinavian chiefs mud before this period have introduced
tlie ufe of ftone into the caflles neceffary for their own defence againft ft
nation whom they opprefled. To the Scandinavian period alfo belong
what arc called the Danes Raths, or circular intrencnments ; and pro-
iiably fome chapels.

Of the eleventh and twelfth centuries many monuments, caftellated or
religious, may probably exiit in Ireland. Brian Boro, king of Munfter,
having been declared fovereign of Ireland in the year I002, dilHnguHhed
himfelf by his virtues and courage; an^ Dcrmid III. A. D. 1041 —
1073, was alio an excellent and powerful prince. Under thefe monarchs
mi their fucceifors, Tudflvac and Moricrtac, the power of the Oilmen,
or Scandinavians, was confiderably weakened. The native chiefs had
been taught the neceflity of fortreflei, and were generally devoutly at»

* See I.eHwich's introduction to Orufo'i Antiqiiiilot of IreUnd| fur Cromltclu in (ha
(uunty of Culuw, ami a cave in Meath.

II 3 . tachfd

mmt-^^i

102

IRELANP.

tached to religion } it is therefOTe to be infemed thtt lOiiiy eaftlet
churches, and monafteries now began to be partly conftrufLed in ftone,
by archite&s invited from France ar.d England ; out perhaps the round
towers were ere Aed by native builders.

The caitles, churches, and monafteries erected fince the period of the
Englifli fettlen>ent might be counted by hundreds, and for them one ge.
nerd reference may be made to the works of Ledwich aud Grofe.
Among fmaller reliques of antiquity, the golden trinkets found in a
bog near CuUen, in the foiith, deferve mention ; as gold was found in
Gaul, they are perhaps .ornaments of the aucient chiefs brought from
that region.

rians meet

. CHAPTER II.

POI^ITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Religion* — Eccleftajlic Geography. — Civil Divijiont. •»— Government. —
Population. — Army. — Navy. — r Revenues, — Political Importance
ana Relations.

Religion

Under the archbifliop of Armagh
are the bifhops of

^'T'HE legal religion of Ireland is that of the church of
'-' X England ; but it is computed that two-thirds of the
people are Catholics, and of the remaining tliird the Preibyteriaus are
fuppofed to conftitute one half.

Ecclesiastical Geography.]] The ecclefiaftic geography of Ire-
land comprizes fopr arch-bi{hopric8, in themfelves an evidence of the
great number of churches formerly exiiling ; and eighteen bifhoprics.

Meath

Kilmore and Ardagh
Dromore

IClogher
Raphoe
Downe and Connor
Derry
{Kildare
Ferns and Laughlin *
Offory

Waterford and Lifmors
Limerick

Killaloe ' .

Cork and Rofs ■'
^Cloyne
[■ Elpnin
Cloync
^ Killala and Achonry*.
The catholics have alfo a hierarcliy nearly fimilar, but the metropoli.
tans and bifhops are confidered by the proteftanti as merely titular.
The prefbytcrians, though here dillcnterB, partake in fome degree of
the nature and privileges of an eftablifhment. They are chiefly dcTcendcd
from the Scotifli preJbytcrians and Englifh puritans, whom James I.
eiuouraged to fettle in UHler. The preftyterian form of government
is in lime degrw retained, and the miniftcrs of nf«rly all the preftyte-

• Oough'i C«mden, iii. 487- The pr'nfucy !■ worth 8000L a ytar, Dsrry 7000L tho
©ther bUhoprici from 40COI. t9 ao^'- Youu^, U. 189.

Under ths archbifliop of Cafliel

Under the archbifliop of Tuam

IRELAND.

rians meet annually in the fynod of Ulfter, in which all the general
concerns of the body are difcufled. The number of prefbytenana ic
eftimated at half a million. Since the repeal of the ten aft they are
free from all thofe reftriftiens to which the diflenters in England are
fubjed.

Government.] The government of Ireland was conftrufted upon
the plan of that of England, being vpfted in the houfe of commons^ and
another of peers, while the- king was reprefented by a lord lieutenant or
viceroy. But no a£l of importance was confidered as valid, till it received
the fanftion of the king and council of Great Britain. At prefent Ire-
land being united to England, the form of government is of courfe iden-
tically the fame. There are fome minute variations between the ftatute
and common laws of Ireland and thofe of England.

Civil Divisions.] Ireland is primarily divided into four province.^,
Ulfter to the north, Connaught to the Weft, Leinller to the Eaft,

The fubdivifions arc counties, of which

In Ulfter

VIZ

and Munfter to the South.

the following is a ItH: :

r Antrim
Down
Armagh
Tyrone
Londonderry
Donegal
Fermanagh
Cavan
Monaghan

ILeitrim
Slii.^o
Rofcommon
Mayo
Gahvay

In Lcinfter

In Munfter

Louth
Meath
Dublin
Wicklow
Wexford
Kilkenny •
Carlow
Kildare

Queen's-county
King's-county
Weftmeath
Longford
Xlare
Limerick
Ke-ry
Cork

Waterford
(_ Tipperary
Population.] The population of Ireland has been varipiifly ftated.
Many contend that it dues not exceed three nuUionSf while others fweU
it to above five millions. As the number of houfes, according to the
official return of 1791, was above 700,000, allowing fix inhabitants to
each houfe, it would exceed five millions, which is probably mMch be-
low the real number.

AitMY.] Belides large contribution!* to the Britifli army, Ireland in
1780 raifed upwards of 40,000 volunteers, and has recently equipped ft
confiderable militia and yeomanry. If we fupppfe every eighth perfon
capable of arms, Ireland might raife a force of more than $00,000 mep.
of mariners Ireland contributes a refpectable proportion, and maoir
naval officers from this part of the united kingdom have diftinguiihea
themfelves by their courage and fkill.

Hevenurs.] The pui>lic revenues of Ireland were ppmputcd by an
intelligent traveller * at abc 'it one million fterlingt or 6/. 9d» a head»
when thofe of England ftuod at 1/. or. This was in 1778, and great
changes have taken place fince. In the year ending cth January l8o5»
lu:cording to an accuuut laid before the Houfe of^C«m|iu)nS| the fum

* Young'i Tour in Irrland*
H4

r«irt4

mm^.^^m

104

IRELAND.

raifed for Ireland exceeded ten millions, of which 4,729,406/. was the
net produce of the ordinary revonne, and the reft was procured by a
loan. By the terms of the Union Ireland pays 2-1 yths of the general
expences of the empire, and this fum, in the fame year, amounted to
5,081,474/.

Political Impoutance, &c.] The political importance and rela.
tions of Ireland are great, but intimately blended with thofe of England •
while her weftern pofition imparts fingular advantages in the commerce
with America and the Weft Indies.

CHAPTER III.

CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.

Manners and Cujloms. — Language. — Literature. — Education. — Un'iver-
Jities. — Cities and Towns. — Edifices. — Inland Navigation..— Manu-
failures and Commerce. - . .

«, r^ nOPENSERthe poet, in his view of the

MANVERSAyn Customs.] J^ ^^^^^ of Iix-land. has preferved feveral

curious particulars concerning the national manners in the reign of
Elizabeth. As that work, though fandtioned by an illuftrioua name,
is little read, two fpccimens (hall be tranfcribed ; one concerning what
M»ere then termed the Irifli horfe-boys, and the other giving fome account
of the bards. After defcribing the favage manners of the Gallow.
glaifes or infantry, and the Kernes or predatory cavalry, that venerable
writer thus proceeds :

** And now next after the Irifli Kernes, methinks the Irifli horfe-
boys would come well in order ; the ufe of which though neceflity (as
times now be) do enforce, yet in the thorough reformation of that realm
they fliould be cut off. For the caufe why they are now to be permit-
ted, is want of convenient inns fftr lodging of travellers on horfeback,
and of oftlers to tend thcii* horfos by the way. But when things fliall
he reduced to a better pafa this needeth fpecially to be reformed. For
out of the fry of thcfe rake- hell boys, growing up in knavery and vil-
lainy, are their kerns continually fupplied and maintained. For having
once been brought up an idle horfe-boy, he will never after fall to labour,
but is only made fit for the halter. And thefe alfo (the which is one
foul ovcrfight ) are for the moft part bred up amongil the Engliflimen ;
of whom learning to fhoot in a piece, and being made acquainted with
all the trades of the Englifli, they are afterwards when they become
kern, made more fit to cut their throats. Next to this is another much
like, but much more lewd apd difhoneft, and that is of their Carrows,
.which is a kind of people that wander up and down to gentlemen's
houfes, living only upon cards and dice ; the which though they have
little or nothing of their own, yet will they play for much money; which
if they win, they wafte moft lightly ; and if they lofe they pay as flen-
dirly, but make rccompence with one Health or another { whofe only
hurt is not that they themfelves are idle lofTels, but that througfi
gaming they draw cilheri to like lewdnefs and idlenefs. And to thefe
may be added unutlK;r fort of like loofe fellows, which do pafs up and
down amongft gentlemen, by the name of jefters, but are (indeedl
notable rygues, and partakers not only of many flealths, by fetting fortn
otltiT mill's goddn to be ftolen, but alfo privy to many traitcrous prac-
lites, and comiuou carriei* of news."

AftLC

IRELAND.

105

After delineating the diflblute life of an IriHi chieftain, Spencer thus
introduces the bards :

« In which if he (hall find any to praife him, and to give him en.
couragement, as thofe bardes and rithmers do, for little reward or a
Ihare of a ftolen cow ; then waxeth he moft infolent, and half mad with
the love of himfelf, and his own le ivd deeds. And as for words to fet
forth fuch lewdnefs it is not hard for them to give a goodly and painted
ihew thereunto, borrowed even from the praifes which are proper to
virtue itfelf. As of a moft notorious thief and wicked outlaw, which
had lived all his life-time of fpoils and robberies, one of their bardes in
his praife will fay, that he was none of the idle milkfops that was
brought up by the fire fide, but that moft of his days he fpent in arms
and valiant enterprifes ; that he did never eat his meat before he had
won it with his fword ; that he lay not all niffht (lugging in a cabin
under his mantle, but ufed commonly to keep others waking, to defend
their lives, and did light his candle at the flames of their houfes to lead
him in the darknefs ; that the day was his night, and the night his day ;
that he loved not to be long wooing of wenches to yield to him, but
where he came he took per force the fpoil of other men's love, and left
but lamentations to their lovers ; that his mufic was not the' harps, nor
lays of love, but the cries of people, and clafhmg of armour; and
finally, that he died not bewailed of many, but made many wail when
he died that dearly bought his death."

Tlie manners of the fuperior claffes of people in Ireland now nearly
approach to the Englifh iCandard, except that excefs in wine, unfafhion-
able in England, continues to prevail too much in the fifter ifland. The
Iriili gentry are alfo feldom addifted to literature or the arts ; but amufe
themfelves with hunting and other robuft excrcifes. Hence an overflow
of health and fpirits ; and the obfervation of an able writer, that Ireland
produces the ilouteft men and the fineft women in Europe, muft not be
confined to the inferior clafTes. The common people of Ireland ftill re-
tain too many features of national manners. A funeral is joined by all
the men and women of the vicinity, and is accompanied with dreadful
howls, and other barbarous ceremonies. Their diet confifts chiefly of
potatoes and buttermilk ; and the rural cottage is a wretched hovel of
mud. The favourite liquor is ufquebaugh, or tl>e water of life ; but
more properly the water of death, being an ardent and pernicious dif-
tillation from corn.

The Englifh language daily gains ground in Ireland, and might, if
proper attention had been befiowcd on the national education, have be-
come, ere now, the general idiom of the country. The ancient Irifh is
a dialed of the Celtic intermingled with many Gothic words, imported
by the Belgic colonies, by the Scandinavians, and by the Englifli.

The Lord's prayer in the Irifh idiom runs in the following terms:

Ar nathair ata ar Neamh. Naomhthar Ha'tnm. 7\^rii(ih do Rioghachif,
Dciintar do Thoil ar an Ttalamh mar do nithear ar Neamh, Ar tiiiran la
tjthitmha'd tabhalr dhu'mn a tiiu. Agus inaith dhulnn ar lihfncha mar
nha'tthm'idne dar bhfatheamhnuibb fein. Agus na leigjinn a caihugbadh,
Achd fair Jin no Ok, Amen.

LiTEUATURi':.] The literature of Ireland has a venerable claim to
antiquity ; for, as has been already mentioned, in the centuries imme-
diately following the introduction of Chriftianily many writers arofe,
whofe works conlift of lives of faints, and worku of piety and difcipline,
prcfenting to the inquilitive reader many fiiKTiilar features of the biftory
uf the Imraaii miud. The chief glory of the ancient Irilh literature ariies

from

''■'^'S*^r*(,h 'f"

io6

IRELAND.

from the repulfion of the rays of fcience, after it had almoft periihed in
Europp, on the fall of the Roman Empire in the weft. The Anglo-
Saxons, in particular, derived their firil illumination from Ireland ; and
in Scotland literature continued to be the fpecial province of the Irifh
clergy, till the thirteenth century.

]&>ucATiov.] In no quarter of the Britifli dominions has education
been condudled upon a more folid and rational plan than in Scotland ;
9ud no where has it been fo much neglefted as in Ireland. It is to be
Iioped that one confequence, and not the Icaft important of the Union,
will be the introdu£lion of parochial education into Ii^land, a fure mean
of preventing the ebullitions of ignorant difcontent.

Univeusities.3 With four archbiflioprics Ireland only pofTefTes one
wniverfity, that of Dublin* This inft^.ution was firft proje£ked by
archbifhop Leech, about the year 131 1 ; but death having interrupted
his defign, it was revived and executed by Bicknor his fuccefibr, and
enjoyed moderate profperity for about forty years, when the revenues
failed.

In the reign of Elizabeth the univerfity was refoundcd by voluntary
contribution, under the aufpices of Sydney the Lord Deputy. It con,
fills of a chancellor, vice-chancellor, provoft, vice-provoft, twenty-two
fellows, and thirteen profeflbrs of various fciences. The number of
ftudents is commonly about fix hundred, including feventy on the foun-
t^a'ion. The building confifts of three quadi'angles, and it contains a
library of fome account, and a printing-office.

At Maynooth there is a royal college for the education of young men
of the RomiHi church. There are many endowed fchools in Ireland,
of which that at Kilkenny is one of the bcft. Tlie education of the
higher and middle ranks is as much attended to as in England, and
fci'.ools of all defcriptions are rapidly improving.

The Dublin Society for the improvement 01 Agriculture and Manu-
failures was inftituted by the efforts of the patriotic Dr. Samuel Madden
in 1731, being the earlieft of the kind now exiiling in Europe f.

Cities and Towns.] Dublin, the capital city of Ireland, feems to
be the Eblana of Ptolemy ; but continued little known till the tenth
century, when it was mciitioned in th& Saxon dironicle ; and in the
beginning of the next century, we have coins of Canute ftruck at Dub-
liu. The fituation is delightful, in a bottom, bccwecn ranges of hills
on the fouth and north. It is pervaded by the river Liffy, and by fome
rivulets. The inhabitants have been cftimated at 1 70,000 ; this capital
beiirg juftly accounted tlie fecond in the BritiOi dominions.

Tlie circumference of Dublin may be about ten miles, being about
t\Tx> miles and a quarter in length, and au much in breadth. The har-
bour is incommodious, being impeded with two banks of fand, called
the north and fouth bulls, which prevent fliips of large burden from
pafiing the bar ; but fome improvements have been made, and otherii
might be carried into execution. A mole has been conftru£ted four
mi^s in length : and thv? quays are fpaciuus* and beautiful. There arc
fix bridges, the chief of which is thut called Carlifle. The caftlc waj
foundt'd about the year 1205, but it has been fmce rebuilt, and is now
the town refidence of the viceroy, and the fanAuary of the public re
cords. The parliament-houfe is a fuperb building, ercfted at coniidcr-
able cxpence. The church of St. Patrick is the cathedral ; a venerabK-
which was begun in the end of the twclftli century ; butt'i."

buildiiij;,

• Coiigli's Camden, iii. SSS>

f Youtig, ik aio.

• Mr. Yonng:, vft

dmm of the h.rhoul

t Oough'j Caindl

t Beauf. 9.

ftccplc,

IRELAND.

107

ftreple, the higheft in the city, was not erefted till the year 1370. The
royal exchange was completed in 1779; and, amon^ other beautiiul
edifices muft not be omitted that whirlpool of expenditure the cuftom-
houfe ; and the houfes of the Duke of Leinfter, the Earl of Charlemoi;t,
and others.

Dublin has an ample fupply of native provifions ; buf coals are im-
ported from Scotland and Cumberland.

In proceeding to eive a brief account of the principal towns and
cities of Ireland, Cork and Limerick attra£l the |irft attention. Cork is
a city of confiderable importance, fituated on the fuuth-eaft fide of the
ifland, and fuppofed to contain about 80,000 inhabitants. The haven
ranks among the mod capacious and fafe in Europe ; and the exporta-
tion, the largeft in the fifter kingdom, confifts chiefly of beef, hides,
tallow, and butter. It is the grand market of Irifh provifions ; and
it was computed that not lefs than a hundred thoufand cattle were here
annually killed and falted, between the months of Auguft and Januar}'.
This city lies chiefly in a marfhy ifland, furrounded by the river Lee ;
but the marihes on the oppofite fide of the river having been drained,
ample fpace has been given to the recent improvements*.

Limerick unites the fortunate fituation of being almofl cetitral to the
/■Quth of Ireland, with an excellent haven formed by the long eftuary of
the river Shannon. The city is accounted the third in Ireland, and was
formerly fortified with great care. The cpifcopal fee is faid to have
been founded in the year 652. The Danes held tlie city from the ninth
century to the eleventh. There are three bridges over the river,' one of
which confifts of fourteen arches. The number of inhabitants has been
computed at 50,000. The chief exports are beef and other provi-
fions f.

The other chief towns in Ireland (hall be briefly mentioned, in a geo-
graphical progrcfs from the fouth towards the north.

Galway is a town of confiderable note, and carries on an extenfive
trade with the Weft Indies. The port is commodious and fafe, but
diilant from the city, which can only be reached by veflels of fmall bur
den: the number of inhabitants is computed at 12,000. Greater trade
is now carried on in the bay of Sligo than at Galway J.

On Klew bay, in the centre of the vt-eft of Ireland ftands Weftport,
but by fomc fatality the advantages of the county of Mayo have not
been improved, nor are there any towns of much confcquence upon the
whole weftern coaft. Sligo is, however, increafing in trade, and the
inhabitants are computed at 8000 ; and Caftlebar is alfo a profperoui
town 11 .

Londonderry is more remarkable for its ancient and military fame than
for its prefent commerce, though not unimportant. It ftands on the
river Foyle, over which a wooden bridge of fingular conftruAion, one
thoufand and fixty-eight feet in length, was throwrt in 179 1.

Ik'lfaft on the north-eaft, is in the centre of the linen manufactures,
and may almoft t)e regarded as a Scotifli colony. Tiie inhabitants arc
computed at 20,000. The chief manufactures, cotton, cambric, fail-
cloth, linen, white-glafs, fugar, and earthen ware. It maintains con-

*-'^

• Mr. Yonng, vol. i 417, expreflei hiiaftoniftiment at the p«puloiifjiefs of Cork. Tiie
diities of the h«rhoiir were, in f 75t,6>,oOOl. in 1779, 140.C09I.
t Cough's Camden, iii. J17.
I Beauf. 9. II Itpd, 7 a.

xo8

IRELAND.

fiderable intercourfe with the commercial city of Glafgow; and the grand
exports are to the Weft Indies and America.

Dundalk has alfo its manufadures of linen and muflin. Drogheda
imports fea-coal and goods from England, and exports confiderable
quantities of grain. It is a well built town on the Boyne : the inhabit,
ants on enumeration in 1798, were found to exceed 15,000.

Towards the fouth-eaft, Wexford claims the firft notice, being re-
markable for its woollen manufadlures ; but the haven, though fpacious,
is not fufficiently deep for large veffels. The inhabitants are 9000.

Waterford is a city of confiderable importance, fituated on the river
Suir*, and is fuppoledto have been founded by the Danes. A noble
quay extends the whole length of the town, to which large veflels can
come ; and. a fin" wooden bridge has been lately thrown over the *^uir.
The population is about 35,000. The chief exports are beef, pork, occ.
and linen. Packet boats fail regularly betwixt Waterford and Milford
Haven.

The fea-ports of Dungarvon and Youghall are loft in the fuperior
confequence of Cork ; but Kinfale is a maritime arfenal, and is fuppofed
to contain 8000 fouls.

The chief towns in the interior, Armagh, Tuam, Cafhel, &c. &c. are
rather venerable from their ecclefiaftical antiquity than important in
themfelves. Kilkenny is, however, an exception ; a handfome town,
with 16,000 inhabitants.

Edifices.] Many of the chief edifices of Ireland have been already
mentioned in the defcription of Dublin. The cathedrals feldom afpire
to great praife of architefture ; and the villas of the nobility generally
yieUl in fplendour to thofe of England, and even of Scotland.

RoAns.3 Though the turnpike roads in Ireland be rather neglefted,
yet the crofs roads are admirable ; and Mr. Young has explained at
length the principles upon which they are conftruftedf .

Inland Navigation.] The advantages derived by England from
inland navigation foon attrafted the attention of Ireland; and, not many
years after the example fet by the Duke of Bridgewater, a grand canal
was begun from the city of Dublin to the river Shannon, and was
actually carried on to tlic bog of Allen, at the expence of 77,oco/.|.
But the engineer's want of ability occaiioned great errors in the original
plan and furvey ; and the work was interrupted in 1770. It has llncc
been completed to the Shannon, near Banagher, and to the Barrow at
Athy, fo as to join Dublin by inland navigation with Limerick and
Waterford.

A canal is completed from tlic town of Newry to Lough Neagh, and
thence to the collieries of Drumglafs and Dungannon. But the original
intention to fupply Dublin with Irifh coals, has not fuccecded.

MANUFACTUHiis AND CoMMEUC'i:.] Though we find, as has been
already mentioned, that Ireland was diftinguifhcd at an early period for
her manufadhire of woollen llulfs, yet the fpirit of indflftry made littli;
progrefs, and'the chief Irifli manufadhires are of recent inftitution. But
the linen manufadure was not unknown in Ireland in more early times,
as appears from the afts of parliament in the reigns of Henry VIII. anJ
Eli^abeth. The annual produce of the linen manufadure was com-

f Vol.

li. tji

• — Thnt gentle Swire, lliat making w.iy,
Cy fwect Clonmel, udonis rich Waterford.

Sl'l-NSER.
\ l*hilliliE, 2:^0,

)UtCd

IRELAND.

109

puted at about 2,000,000/. fterling * 1780. In the year ending January
I799> the value of .Irifti linen exported to Great Britain exceeded
2,500,000/. exclufive of that fent to America, and the home confump-
tion ; and it has fince confiderably increafed.

But a grand portion of the commerce of Ireland arifes from her
abundant ftores of black cattle, the moifture of the climate rendering the
pafturage remarkably luxuriant.

The average annual exports of Ireland for the feven years previous
to 1 791 > amount, according to Dr. Beaufort, to 4,357,000/. From.^
the annual average taken of the three years preceding the 5 th January,
1799, it appeared that the total value of exports from Ireland to Great
Britain alone was 5,612,689/. • . ' , > ■ ...

CHAPTER IV.

IJATURAL GEOGRAPHY.

Climate and Seafons. — Face of the Country. — Soil and AgricuUure.—^
Rivers. — Lakes. — Mountains. — Forejls. — Botany. — Zoology. — Mine-
ralogy.-— Mineral Waters. — Natural Curiofities.

-| TRELAND lyihg nearly in the fame parallel with Eng-
"J jI^ land, the difference of climate cannot be fuppofed to
be very important. The mean temperature of the north is about 48, of
the middle 50, and of the fouth 52 of Farenheitf.

Face of the Country.] In confidcring the face of the country
it muft be remembered, that Ireland forms a ftriking contraft to Scot-
land, being moftly level, fertile, and abundant in pafturage. The chains'
of hills, for they can hardly afpire to the name of mountains, are few
and unimportant.

Soil and Agriculture. ] The foil and agriculture of Ireland are
topics which have teen ably illuftrated by an intelligent writer |. He'
obferves, that the quantity of the cultivated land exceeds in propor-
tion, that of England. The moll ftriking feature is the rocky nature
of the foil, ftones generally appearing on the furface, yet without any
injury to the fertility. The ftones are, for the moft part, calcareous, and
appear at no great depth, even in the moft flat and fertile parts, as
Limerick, Tipperary, and Meath. The climate being more moift than
that of England, the verdure never appears parched with heat ||. 'Til-
lage is httle underftood, even in the beft corn counties ; turnips and
clover being almoft unknown:, the wheat fown upon fallow, and followed
by feveral crops of fpring corn. The farmers are opprefled by the
(hocking fyttem of middle /nen, who rent farms from the landlords, and
let them to the real occupiers ; who, as well as the proprietors, fuffer
greatly by this ftrange praftice. Lime ftone gravel is a manure pecu-
liar to Ireland ; having, on uncultivated land, the fame wonderful effects as
lime, and on all foils it is benelicial^.

• Young, ii. 438. f x Tranf. R. t. A. vol.!!. % Young's tour, ii. 72.

II The Currsigh of KilJarc is a moft beautiful lawn, of abouc 4000 Englilh acres, a
flicep-walk of the lofteft turf, and moft delicious verdure. Young, ii. 7.
^ Young, 171, Since Mr. Y«ung wrote there has been greu improvement in agti.

culture.

9 . . ' Rivers.]

mms-^mii

110

IRELAND.

Rivers. 3 Among the chief rivers of Ireland muft firft be mentioned
the Shannon, which rifes from the lake of Allen, and pafling throutrh
two other large lakes, Lough Ree and Lough Derg, afterwards ex-
tends below Limerick, into a vaft eftuary or firth, about fixty miles in
length, and from three to ten in breadth *. This noble river is, almoft
through its whole courfe, fo wide and deep as to afford eafy navigation.
Boate informs us that the celebrated Earl of Strafford deiigned to re-
move a rock fix miles above Limerick, which forming a cataract, im-
4>edes the intercourfe between the upper and lower parts. It has fmcc
been deemed preferable to conneft the navigable parts of the river above
and below the cataraA by a canal. The whole courfe of the Shannon
may be computed at 1 70 miles.

The other rivers of Ireland have little of this majeilic charafter.

The river Barrow rifes about forty miles to the welt of Dublin, near
the fource "of the Boyne ; and, after a courfe of about one hundred
miles, enters the fea on the fouth-eail, having received the rivers Nour
and Suir, and formed the harbour of Waterford.

The Blackwater, another confiderable llream in the fouth, enters tlie
iS^a at Youghall bay. >

The Slaney forms the harbour of Wexfora.

The Liffy is an inconfiderable ttrea.m, ennobled by the capital.

The Boyne, after a courfe of about fifty miles, alfo enters the eaftern
fea ; the other rivers on the eaft, are fmall and unimportant.

In the north the Bann is a confiderable ftream, which pervades
Lough Neagh, and enters the fea after a courfe of about 70 miles.
By the canal of Newry it communicates with Carlingford bay ; and thus
infulates the north-eall projection of Ireland.

The river Foyle pafles by Londonderry, and has a confiderable
eftuary called Lough Foyle. The Swilly is of confiderable length, but
forms a long elluary.

On the N.W. Lough Erne ifTucs into Donnegal bay by a confiderable
ftream ; but no other river of confequence occurs till we reach the
eftuary of the Shannon ; nor arc the rivers on the S.W. of much
note.

The lakes of Ireland are numerous, and fome of them extenfive.
"The term iougb correfponding with the Scotidi loc^t is fometimes applied
to an eftuary, or to an inlet of the fea, fuch as the Swilly, the Foyle,
that of Strangford in Down, &c. The chief lake of frefli water is that
of Erne, which exceeds tliirty Britifii miles in length, and twelve in its
greateft breadth ; it is dividt-'d by a narrow outlet from the fouthern
part into the nortliorn, of about four miles in length.

Next in magnitude is Neagh, about twenty-two miles in length, and
twelve in breadth. Both thefe lakes are ftudded with fmall ifiands; and
the latter is faid to pofFefs a petrifying quality.

The lake of Corrib, in the county of Galway, is about twenty miles
in length, and from two to five wide. Thofe of Ree and Derg are
lefs confiderable in fize ; and there is a fmaller lake alfo named Derr,
in the N. W. which was remarkable in fuperftitious times for a little
ifland, containing what was called the purgatory of St. Patrick.

Among the lakes of the fecond magnitude muft be firft named the
beautiful and interefting Lough of KiUarney, in the 8. W. abounding
with romantic views, and fringed with the arbutus, no where elfe a native
of the Briti/h dominions. This is almoft the only lake in tlie fouth of

• BoatCj p 36

Ireland;

IRELAND.

Ill

Ireland ; and the ofafenrations may be extended to the eaft. On the
^. W. are the lakes of £a(k, Tiierty, Melvin, Macnean, and GiGL
"That of Allen, aa already mentioned, is a chief fource of the Shannon,
into which the Gara and Key alfo pour their waters. Further to the
weft are two coniiderable lakes, the Conn and the Maik ; nor mud thofe
of Curraiin be forgotten.

MouJiTAiMs.] The fhountainous chains in Ireland are neither nu-
merous nor important ; but an upland ridge divides the country from
the N. E. to tne S. W. giving birth to feveral of the rivers. The Irilh
hills generally form fliort lines, or detached groups. One group of con-
fiderable height appears on the weft and fouth of Lough-Leane, or what
is called the lake of Killarney ; of thefe Mangerton is 2500 feet above
the fea. A fmall line of hills extends on the north-weft of Bantry-bay,
and paffes to the eaft, under the name of the Shehy mountains*. To
the north of this is the line of Slieblogher and Nagles, followed by the
Galtee mountains ; and towards the eaft, are thofe of Knochmeledown,
which bend fouthward towards the bay of Dungarvin. A fmall chain
alfo appears to the fouth of Tralee, which, with a group to the N. E.
may be faid to complete the enumeration of the mountains of Mun*
fter.

In Leinfter is the mountain of Leinft"&r, the line of Sliebh-bloom
«n the S. W. and a confiderable group to the fouth of Dublin,
ftyled the Kippure mountains, or thofe of Wicklow. The extent of
this group is about thirty Englifli miles in length, by about twelve

breadtn.

In Ulfter is a fmall group, called the monntains of Mournc, in the
S. E. corner of the province: one of them, Donard, is faid to be about
the height of Mangerton. The hills of Sliebhcroob (in the Irifti
knguige Jlifiht fignifics a mountain), form tlie centre of the county
of Down ; and feveral hills are fprinkled over the eaftern half of Antrim.
On the north-weft of Loughneagh arc tliofe of SHebhgallan and Carn-
togher. Sliebh Snaght is a conuderabl* mountain N. W. of Lough
Foyl, whence other lines and groups extend down lo Longh Em'*.

"The eallern part of Connaught prefents numerous marlhes, but few
mountains, except thofe of Baughta on the fouth. The extreme weftern
peninfula, is one of the moft mountainous regions in Ireland. Among
ether names may be mentioned, Mount Ncphin, in the county of Mayo,
a folitar)' hill of .2640 fe?t, and one of the moll confiderable in the
illand. That of droagh Patrick, on the S. E. of Clewbay, a cone of
2666 feet ; the Fernamoor mountains to the weft of Lough Maflc ;
and the Twelve Pins, a line of fo many fmall peaks in Ballinah'nch ;
with others to tlie fouth of Lough Corrib.

Forests. 3 Scarcely the fomblancc of a foreft remains in Ireland;
and Boate has long Hncc obfervcd, -that the woods have been greatly
diminiftied fince the entrance of the 5ngli^» partly from the cxtenfion of
tillage, and partly from the neceffity of opening up the recefles of ban-
ditti. Another great caufe was, the confumption in domeftic fuel, and
in the iron manufafture, the coal mines not having been explored.

Boos] The place of the forefts is unhappily ufurped by the mnor$
or bogs, which form a remarkable feature of the country. Boate
divides them into ieveral genera and fpecics, forming an elaborate fcale
of fterility. The dry heaths are generally confined to the mountains.
The bogs he fub^ditiaes into four defcriptions : i. The gralfy, in which
(he water being concealed by herbage, they become extremely perilous

• Beaufort's Memoir of a Map of beknd.

mmm:im«'>.m>^Mt>.-

jia

IRELAND.

to travellers : fome of thefe are dry in the fummer. 2. The pools of
water and mire. 3. What he terms haflbcky bogs, or (hallow lakes
iludded with tufts of ruflies, which are chiefly found in the province of
Leinfter, efpecially in King's and Queen's counties. 4. The peat
moors. Ornaments of gold, and other rehcs of antiquity, have, h-om
time to time, been difcovered in the bogs at great depths ; and there are
other indications that they are of comparatively recent formation *. It
is hoped that the hand of induftry will, in time, remove many of thefe
blemishes ; and one of the greateft ihiprovements of modern agriculture
is that of reclaiming peat moors, by means of calcareous manure.

The Irifli bogs differ from the Englifh moraffcs in being rarely level,
but rifing into hills ; and there is a bog in Donnegal that is a perfeft
fcenery of hill and dale. The plants are heath, with fome bog myrtle,
and a little fcdgy grafs.

Botany.] The ftudy of botany has been lefs cultivated here than ia
any other part of the united empire ; and the neighbourhood of Dublin,
which has been the beft explored, affords no rare, and few charafteriftic
plants. . From the general mildnefs of the climate, the extenfive trafts
of bog, and the vaft mountainous ranges that interfedt the country, and
afford capacious bafons for its numerous lakes, it is obvious that the
flora of Ireland, when complete, will probably contain fevcral fpecies
that are ilrangers to the reft of the Britifli iflands. On the mountains
of Sligo is found the Saxifraga umbrofa, (known in our gardens by the
xiimie oi London frl Jet) and the romantic fcenery of Killarney in the
county of Kerry, is the moil northern habitat of the Arbutus Unedo: the
heaths abound with the ftateiy Erica Dabbeci, and the mountain avens,
bear-berry, with other Alpine plants, already noticed in the botany of
Scotland, expand their negle£led bloffoms, and trail their glowing fef.
toons of clullered berries, unnoticed amidft the wild folitude of their
rocky faftneffes.

Zoology.] In paffing to the zoology of Ireland it may be cxpefted
that not many varieties (hould be found between the Irifli animals and
thofe in England.

The Irifh horfes, called . hobbys, are of a fmall breed, remarkable for
the gentleness of their pace.

The Irifli hound is one of the noblefl; animals of the clafs, and formerly
celebrated for his fize and vigour, but the breed is now almofl: extinft.

Bede has commemorated the praife of Ireland for abundance of
honey, and of milk, fo that the country feems, even in early limes, t©
have abounded in cattle. He nlfo mentions the numerous herds of
deer, which animal the progrefs of cultivation has now rendered rare. In
various parts of Ireland are dug up enormous horns, probably belonging
to a fpecies of deer now extindl. Some of thefe horns have been found
of the extent of fourteen feet from tip to tip, furniflisd with brow
antlers, and weighing three hundred pounds ; the whole flceleton is fre-
quently found with them. It is fuppofed that the aninud muft have been
about twelve feet high.

Mineralogy.] The mineralogy of Ireland has been recently enno-
bled by the difcovery of confiderable maffes of native gold in the county
of Wicklow, to the fouth of Dublin. Thefe were found in a brook,
running weft to eaft, to the river of Avonmore, where it is joined by
the river Aghran ; and on a declivity of the mountain called Croughan
Kinflielly, about feven Englifli miles weft of Arklow, and fix fouth-well

• See Di*. Campbell's Pliilofophical Survey of the South of Ireland,
afciibed to Dr. Wilkintou, to whom it is dedicated. ■ >

fometimes falfeljr
of

PWof.'

IRELAND*

tij

of the noted copper mines of Cronebane *. It is faid that a jeweller, who
lately died in Dub'lin, often declared, that gold from that fpot hadpaffed
through his hands to the value of 30,000!., tlxe fecret being retained
for many years, and fome piecea weighing to the amount of 70 or 80
juineas. It is now worked for government, and it is faid that a very
iTialTy vein has been recently difcovered, which, it is hoped, will greatly
benefit the country ; for mines have, in all ages, ancient and modern, en*
riched and improved the countries where they were foUnd, apd the excep-
tion, if fuch» of Spaniih America is to be afligned to caufes of a differcat
nature.

The filver found in the Irifli mines deferves more attention* Boate
nicntions a mine of this metal, intermingled with lead, which was
wrought in the county of Antrim, ' and yielded a pound of pure
filver from thirty pounds of lead. Another, lefs produftive of filver,
was found near the harbour of Sligo, in Connaught \ and a third in the
county of Tipperary, twelve miles from Limtrick. The ores of thid
lall; were of two kinds, moft generally of a reddifh colour, hard, and
gliftering ; the other, which was the richeft in filver, refembled a blue
marl. The works were deftroyed in the Irifli infurret\ions undet
Charles I. '

Copper has been recently found in the county of Wicklow, and at
Muccrofs, in Kerry.

One of the chief mineral produAIons of Ireland is ironj the mines of
which were little known till the time .of Elizabeth.

The beds of coal to be feen in various regions of Ireland have not yet
been explored to their proper extent. That of Kilkenny, found at
Caftlecomer, is defervedly celebrated among mineraldgifts as the purell
which has yet been traced in any quarter of the globe.

One of the mod beautiful marbles of Ireland is found near Kilkenny,
and others have been difcovered in various parts of the iilandt Slate, of
Various kinds, is alfo abundant.

Natural curiosities ] Among the natural curiofities of Ireland
would, in ancient times, have been mentioned the purgatory of St.
Patrick, a mifefable monkifh delufion. At prefent the lake of Killar-
ney attraAs more deferved devotion. This piAurefque expahfe of water
is about ten miles in length, and from one to feven in breadth : it i|j divided
into three parts, called the upper, lower, and Muckrufs lake ; and is fur-
rounded by an amphitheatre of mountains, clothed with trees, whofe
verdure iscontraftcd with intervening rocks. The arbutus, with its fear-
let fruit and fnowy bloflbms, here vegetates in great luxuriance. Nor are
cafcades, and other features of rural beauty, wanting to complete the
fcene f . The ifle of Innisfallen is not only romantic, but of venerable
fame for the annals there written.

What is called the Giant's Gaufey muft be diftinguilhed among the
moll remarkable of the curiofities of Ireland. When we recoUeft that
9 fimilar produAion, the celebrated ifland of Stafia, remaiped unnoticed
till within thefe thirty years j we (hall be the lefs inclined to wonder that
the Giant's Caufey is an objeA of recent obfervatiofl. The firft account
is that given by Sir R. Buckley, in a letter to Doftor Lifter,
J 693. This furprifing colledion of bafaltic pillars is about eight
miles N.E. from^oleraine. The adjacetit coaft is verdant, but preci*
pitous, and from it the Caufey projeds into the fea, to an unknown ex-
tent. The part explored is about 600 feet in length i the breadth from

•rhiloT.Tnmf. 1797.

t Young, i, 444, &c.

240

•114

IRELAND.

,240 to 120; the height from 16 to 36 feet above the level of the
llrand. Tt confiftsof many thoufand pillars, moUly in a vertical pofition •
fome of them high, others broken, and, for a coufiderable fpace, of an
equal height, fo as to form a pavement. They are clofely compacted to-
gether ; though the form be various, trigonal, tetragonal, pentagonal,
hexagonal, and heptagonal ; the mod numerous are the pentagonal. The
pillars are rarely compofed of ono entire piece, but molHy conhft of fliort
or long joints, either plain or alternately concave and convex. They
are from 15 to 24 inches, or more, in diameter. Towards the N,E.
is what is called the Organ, in the fide of a hill, confiding of fifty
pillars ; that in the middle is 40 feet high, the others gradually diminifli.
iiTg. Similar pillars, are alfo found a mile and a half inland, four miles
to the W. of the Giant's Caufey, and at the capes of Bengore and
Fairhead.

The bafalt of the Giant's Caufey is of a very compaA texture, and
the angles of the pillars have preferved their (harpnefs, though expofed
to the Tea lor perhaps two or three thoufand years *. The fame Ihorealfo
prefents horizontal and bending pillars, like thofe of StafFa ; the attendant
minerals are zeoUte in the irregular bafalt, deatite^ and bits of agate, red
ochre, and iron ore.

IRISH ISLES. ..vi.-Jln ,r

The few and fmall ifles around Ireland are unimportant, but muft
not be wholly omitted. To the N.E. of Dublin is Lambty, a fmall ifland
already mentioned : and at tlie S.E. extremity of Ireland appear the rocks
called Tafliard and the Saitee ifles. At the fouthern extremity is the ifle
of Clare, about three miles and a half in length, and more remarkable
for its fouthern promontory called Cape Clear, than for any other object
Turning to the N.W. are the ifte of Durfey, thp Hogillands, and the
Skellig.'J ; to the north of the latter is Valentia, off the coatt of Kerry,
which is followed by the Bla/ltets, or Ferriter illands. The fouth Arran
iflands he at the n\outh of the noble bay of Galway, and are remarkable
for a fmall kind of oats without any hufk, and for large calves ; the chit f
is near feven miles in length. A number of fmall iflands encircle the coait,
which projects furtheit into the Atlantic, fuch as Garomna, Littermore,
Minifli, Inifney ; and further to the N.W. Dunloghan, Omcy, Crua, ^^c.
UoAn was famous in the days of monadic fand\ity, and has retaiiial ii>
ancient appellation, 'i'o the N K. are the Inilture, and another Clare .it
the mouth of Clew bay j at the bottom of which is a numerous group 01
fmall iflands. 'i'o the norih is Achil, the Urged of the Irifh ifles being
about twelve miles long by ten broad. It is feparated from the et>ait ot
Mayo by a narrow channel, but no minute defcnption of it has appeared
Inifmurry is a fmall ille at the mouth of the bay of Donegal ; and wj
other iilcs worth mention apptar till we arrive at the northern illands ot
Arran, off the coad'of Douegiil. 'I'he N.W. extremity of Ireland i^
marked by Tory ifle ; and r« turning towards the ead, we meet wjtii Inif-
trahull ; and after an equal liillance, Raehlin. the Racina of Ptulctny. auJ
jTTPiuwable as the retveat of Robert f. of Scotland.

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FRANCE.

, , . . CHAPTER I. '

. " . , HISTORICAL GEOGRAPttV. ' ' "

iVdjRW. — Extent. — Boundaries.—-Origmal Population. — Progrejfne GeogrA'
phy. — Hiftor'ical Epochs and Antiquities, ^

, T7 RANGE, defervedljr celebrated amoiigll the moft eminent
Names.J j^ Europetn ftates, was probably known to the Phoenicians,
though tlie fuperior fame of the metalUc riches of Spain have almoft
cclipfcd their difcovery of Gaul. In the year 6oo beforf? the birth of
Clirift; according'to the chronology of Uflier, the Phucseans failing
from Ionia founded Maflilia, or Marfeilles ; yet Herodotus, who
lloiiriflied a gentury and a half after that period, fhew^s fo little know-
ledge of Gaul, as to fuppofe that the Danube arofe in the Pyrenees. The
ancient inhabitants were the Celts, of whom even Ariftotle feems only to
have k'arned that they inhabited the region above Iberia or Spain. The
t'outliern parts of Gaul became known at an early period to the Romans*
who entered tkat region about 1 20 years before the Chriitian epoch, and
loon afterwards founded the province termed Gallia Bracata ; but the re-
mainder of this large and fertile country was referved for the difcovery and
conqueft of Julius Cxfar. The ancients fometimes ftyled it the country
of the Celts, but the only general name feems to have been Gallia, which,
after the fall of the Roman empire, was fupplanted by that of Francia,
or France, becaufe it was fubdued and pofTelTed by the Franks, an alTem-
blage of tribes from lower Germany.

Extent.] The extent of France, before the recent acquiiitions, was
computed at 148,840 fquaremil^s ; and fuppoiing the then population to
be 26,000,000, would render 174 inhabitants to each mile fquare. The
boundaries were» on the wefty the Atlantic ocean ; on the fouth the Me-
diterranean and Pyrenees : on the £. Savoy, Swiffcrland, and Germany ;
on the north, the Auftrian Netherlands, the German fea, and Englifli.
Channel. It extends from about the 42d to near the 5 lit degree of N.
latitude ; from about the 7th degree of longitude weil from Paris to about
the 5th on the eail ; being in length N. to S. about 600 Britiih miles,
and in breadth W. to £. about 560.

Original population.] The original population of Gaul has been
ably illuftrated by many authors. The primitive mliabitants were the Celts,
to whom no j^terior people can be traced in the weflern regions of Europe ;
but on the S.W. the Aquitani, of African defcent, had palled from Spain ;
and on the N.E. the warlike German tribes, known by the name of Bclgte,
had feized on a third part of the country, • where they introduced the Go-
thic language and manners. On tlie S. alfo the German Gauls had dif-
fufed thcmfelves into what was called Gallia Bracata : nor mull the Greek
colonies be forgotten. The fohdity nnd duration of the Roman tionquelU
diffufed the Latin language through all ranks. On the N W. extremity,
it is probable that there were remains of the ancient Celts, bofore the
Britilh colony proceeded there in the fifth century, and imparted a name
tothediftria.

I 2 f PMOORESSIVR

^£JEIs^W6ai^&<>.

ti6

FRANCE.

Progressive GKOGRAFHV.] The Romans firft illuftratedthe geopr
phy of Gaul, whiciv they confidered as divided into three chief reeion"^
the Celtic, the Belgic, and Aquitanic ; the Provincia Bracata being alnmft
forgotten in the extent of their fubfequent conqueila. Thefe regions were
again fub-divided into no lefs than feventeen provinces. On the fubver
ilon of the Romun power, new names and divifions fucceedcd, as Flan
dria, Lotharingia, Neullria, Burgundia, Vafconia, &c. *: while Aauil
tania and Provincia remained ancient names, though not within ancient
biundaries, Thefe were fucceeded by divifion» yet more modern, which
in recent times, have been fupplanted by more minute departments.

Ancient Provinces.

Flandre Fran^oife.

Artois.

Picardie.

Normandie.

Ifle de France.

Champagne.

Lorraine.
Alfacc.

Bretagne.

Maine and Perche.

Anjou.
Tourainc. .

Orlcanois- ''^^

Berri.
Nivcrnois* '

Departments.

Nord.

Fas de Calais*

Somme.
' Seine Infifrieure.^

Calvados.

Manche.

Ome.

Eure.
f Seine.

I Seine and Oife.
^ Oife.
I Aifne.
L Seine and Marne.

Mame.

Ardennes.

Aube.

Haute Mame.

Mcufi?.

Mofelle.

Mcttrthe.

\ ofgcs.

Haut-Rhin.

Bas-Rhin.

■ Ifle and Vilaine.

C6tc8-du-Nord.

Finiftcrre.
I Morbihan.
l^ Loire Iiiferieure.
f Sarthe. ;
\ Mayenne.

Maycnne and Loire.

Indre and Loire.

{Loiret.
Eure and Loire.
Loire and Chen
{ Indre.
tCher.
Nievre.

Chief Towns,

Eille.

Arras.

Amiens.

Rouen.

Caen.

Coutances.

Alen^on.

Evreux.

Paris.

Verfailles.

Beauvais.

Laon.

Melun.

Chalons-fur- Mame^

Mezieres.

Troyes.

Chammont.

Bar-fur-Ornain.-

Metz.

Nancy.

Epinal.

Colmar.

Strafl>ourg.

Rcnnes.

St. Brieux.

Quimper.

Vannes.

Nantes.

Le Mans.

Laval.

Angers.

Tours.

Orleans.

Chartres. .

Blois.

Chateauroux,

Bourges.

Neveri.

* D'Anville, Euts form^^ tn £\trop«.

jHiu.'M Provence,

FRANCE.

117

Departments*

C Yonne.

)C6ted'0r.

J Sa6ne and Loire.

( Ain.

f Haute-Saone.

< Doubs.
C Jura,
r Vendue.
•I Deux Sevres.
(.Vienne.
r Haute- Vienne,
J comprifing part of
*! Limolin.
{^Creuze.
f Corrcze,

< comprifing part of
(.Upper-Vienne.

Bourbonnois. Allier.

Saintonge, comprifing | Charente-Infertcure.

Aunis. J

Angoumois, 1

comprifing part of >Charente.

Saintonge. j

. (" Puy-de.d6me.

Auvergne. \cAt^\,

r rRh6ne.

Lyonnow. I r •

For^t and Beaujolois. 1 j^^^.^ *

' Hautes-Alpes.
Drdme.

Jtment Proviitcet.

Bourgogne,

Franche-Compte.
Poitou.

Marcl4l

Litnofin.

Dauphin6.

Guyenne, compre*
bending Gafcogne.

Beam.

Comt6-de-Foix,

RoufltUon.

Languedoc.

Provencco

Dordogne.

Gtronde.

Lot and Garonne.

Lot.

Aveyron.

Gers.

Landes.

Hautes Pyr6n6e8.
f Bafles-Pyr^neeB.
\ Arriege.

Pyr^n^es-Orientales.
'Haute-Garonne.

Aude. «

Tarn. >

Garde. ' ?"

Lozere,

Ard6che.

Haute-Loire,

Hiraut.
r Bouche8.du-Rhonef
{ Bafles-Alpei.
IVar.

Chief TowM

Auxerre.

Dijon.

Macon. "^

Bourg. ,

Vefoul.

Befangon. .

Lons-le-Sauniei;.

Fontenay-le-Peup!e«

Niort.

Poitiers.

Liovoge,

Gueret,.
Tulle. •

Moulins.
Caintes.

Angoulemtv

Clermont.

St. Flour.

Lyon.

Montbrifon.

Grenoble.

Gap.

Valence.

Perigueux.

Bordeaux.

Agen.

Canors. '

Rhodez.

Auch.

Mont-dc-Marfan.

Tarbe.

Pau.

Tarafcon.

Perpignan. '

Touloufe.

Carcaflonne.

Caftreb.

Nimes.

Mende. '

Privas.

Le Puy.

Montpellicr.

Aix.

Digne.

Touloa*

AMieni

118

FRANCE.

/inctent Provinces.
Corfica.

Departments.

Ch'tefTowns.

fGolo.
\ Liamone.

Baftia.
Ajaccio.

The above are the modern departments of old France; the recent
conquefts have alfo been moulded to a fim.lar form, under the name of re.
united departments ; thefe are the followmg ;

Mclent Namis. Rc-mitcd Departments. Chief Tcwn^.

Avig- 1 Vauclufe, with the ^^j o„.
^ o* f Bouchcs du Rhone. ^

/ Mont Blanc.
VThe Maritime Alps.
I Mont Terrible.

Jemmapes.

Lya.

Efcaut.

Deux Nethes

Territory of

non, county

Venaiffin.
Diftridof Apt..
Savoy.

County of Nice.
Bilhoprick of Bale.
Auftrian Hainaut.

Weftern part of
Auftrian Flanders.

Eaftern part of Flan-
ders.

Eaftern part of Bra-
bant. ^

Southern part of Bra- 7 jj^i^

bant. J

Part of the country T j^j^^c^^

of Liege, and <>* rinfencure.
Gelderland. J

Part of the countries of ")

Liege, and of Lim- |

bourg.with theprin- } Ourthe.

cipalities of Strave-

lo and Malmedi. J *

County of Namur. "Isambre and Meufe,
Duchy of J-uxem. > Yortts. >

bourg, >

Part of the Archbu 1 n^i^j^g gp^ Mofelle.

(hopricl^ of Treves. J
Part qf the Archbi-l ^

ihoprickof Tr^es.l g^^ i

and of the Duchy f

of Deux Ponts. J
J»art of the ancient"

Archbifhopnck of

Maytuce, and of ^ Mont Tqoqere,

the Duchy of Deux

^ox»t8,

Chambery.

Nice.

Porcntruy,

Mons.

Bruges.

Gand.

Anvers.

Bruxelles.

Macftricht.

Liege.

Namur.
Luxemburgh.

Coblcntz.
Trfives.

Mayen^e.

/nclm

FRANCE.

119

jindcnt Names. Re-nn'ited Departments. Chief Towns.

Part of the Archbi-
{lioprick. of Cologne,
of the Duchy of
JuHers, of Pruflian
Gelderland, of
Cleves, MtMirs, &c.

Of the Territory of"
Geneva, of the
Diilrias of Gex,
Larouge, Thonon,
&c.

Rocr.

Aix-la-Chapelle.

^eman.

Geneve *.

HisTOiwcAL EPOCHS.] The chief hiftorical epochs of France may be
arranged in the following order :

1. The primitive population of the Celts, and the conquefts of the
Aquitani and Belgae.

2. The faint notices of the ancients concerning Gaul, from the efta-
bliflimcnt of the Phocaean colony at Marfeilles, to the conquefl by Caefar.

3. The complete difclofure of the country to the learned world by that
great general ; and the various revolutions and events of which it was the
theatre under the domination of the Romans.

4. The Hnal conquell of the country by the Franks under Clovis,
about the year 490, and the converfion of the Franks to the Chriftiaa
I'aitli, five years after that period.

J. The obfcure and dillraded hiftory of the Merovingian race, (France
being frequently fplit into fmall kingdoms), till its final extinction in the
niiiidle of the eighth century.

6. The Carlovingian race, which afcended the throne in the year 752",
and was followed, twenty years afterwards, by the celebrated reign of
Charlemagne, who carried the power of France to the utmoll extent and
fpleiidour, having, in particular, fubdued the greateft part of Germany,
where he became the founder and firil fovereign of what has fmce been
ityled the German Empire, A.D. 800, and which remained with his
defcendants for near a centur)'.

7. The accefTion of the houfeof Caprt in the year 987.

8. The crufades, in which the French bore the chief fvvay,

9. The wars with England. The acquilition of France by Henry V.,
and its deliverance by he maid of Orleans, or rather by Charles VII.,
Ilyled the Viftorious.

10. The reign of I^ouis XL, who, cruihing fuch powerful princes as
were left after tlie Englifh ihock, may be regarded ^8 the father of the
abfolute monarchy.

u. The reign of Francis I., called the father of the arts and letters,
during which the French, who had been regarded as barbarians by the
more civilized people of Italy, began, on th*.' contrary, to be dilUnguifhed

• The recent arqvtifitlons of France, Rmoiif? \\\w\\ tnuft be chiefly placed the UniteJ
Pruvincej, not to nitntion tlie new and ful)fervient kingdoms and princiiMlitics, remain to
bp Hcfiiifd and wnloliduied by a general jH;ace, l)clbrc ihey can be admitted into cldUical

$eograpliy.

I 4

]2d

FRANCE.

by fuperior refinement. This is alfo the firft epoch of a ftanding army
in Europe.

12. The inteftinc commotions with the proteftants, and maflacre of St.
Barthelemy.

13. The reign of Henry IV,

14. That of Louis XIV , too much extolled by the French, and too
much degraded by other nations.

15. The recent revolution which has artoniHied Europe, and which, in
the Singularity and importance of the events, rivals the pag*^ of ancient
hiftory.

Antiquities.] Several ancient monuments exift in France which are
afcribed to the firft epoch. The Greek colony at Marieilles feems to
have imparted fome degree of civilization to the country, and the rude
Gallic coins arc evidently an imitaftion of the Grecian model ,

The Roman antiquities in Trance are numerous, and fome of tliem
in excellent prcfervation. Thofe at Nifmes are particvlnrly ce'ehr:>,tcd,
confiding chiefly of an amphitheatre, and the temple called La Maifoii
Carre.

The other periods of French antiquity have been ably illuftrated by the
learned work of Montfauc^n ; and the difclofure of the grave of Childciic,
near Tournay, in the lad century, pni'ented fome of the mod curious.
fragments. In an old tower of St. Gennain des Pros are reprefentations
of feveral of the firli monarchs of the Franks, and many of their effigies
were prcfervcd on their tombs at St. Dennis, and other, places, till the
late revolutioiji.

The monuments of th:- Carloviii-rian race are yet more numerous, and
Roman mofaics have illuiliatcd the fame bf Charlemagne. Of the later
periods the monuments are fo numerous, that it would be vain to attempt
to ennmerate them. One of the moll fingidar is the fuit of tapeihy,
which was preferved in the cathedral church of Bayeux, in Normandy,
reprefenting the beginning and termination of the grand conteft. between
Wilham and Harold, which- led to the conqiicll of England by the Nor.
mans. It ia faid to have been the work of Matilda> wife of William ;
%nd beara every mark of that remote antiquity.

CHAPTER n.

POLITICAL GEOGUAPIIY.

/ietipon. — Eccleftajlic Geography. -^Government.-'— Laws,'— ^Popitlation.'-'
ColottUst— jinny. — Navy. — Revetiuet,''— Political Importance and Rda-
tions*

n 1 THHE religion of France is the Roman Catholic ; but

KELIGION.J J_ ^j^^. Galilean church, fince its re-eaablifl.ment by Bo.
naparte, has been confiderably modified, and rendered wholly independent
on Roman influence.
Ecclesiastic geography.] The general divifion into archbifliopricks

• (n Ficardy, and oihcr parts poffeffcd l>y the Belgre, there are circles, and otlier monii-
nents of the kind wliich we call druictic. Near tlie town of ( ariiar, 011 the coal) ut'
Vannes, in Bretiigne, there is a {^rand monument of this kind, far exceeding Stonehenge,
if the account he notcxncgcratcd, which fays, tlmt there are abuiit 'tOOO liviies^ many as
tk>gU M 18 or 2Q K>et, dif^fed ia tUc form of a (luincutui of elevcu rows.

(1 »nd

fRANCE.

tit

and biHiopricks remains much the fame as before the revolution; but the
revenues and power attached to thefe ecclefiaftical offices are now only
fufficient to render them refpedtable, but not formidable.

Gov EKVMENT.] The government of France has affumed more fta-
[jility fince the firft pubhcation of this work, every effort having beeu
uffd to introduce a new dynafty in the family of Bonaparte.

The prefeiit llHtf* of the government of France may be moll impar-
tially derived from the mouth of a French author, a man of talent and
obfcrvation *.

« The executive power is lodged, with complete plenitude, in the will
of the emperor, who has the power of adopting a fuccelTor.

« The new laws are firil propofed by the government to an aflembly o^
jifty members, called the Tribunate, which difcuffes them. They are
afterwards debated by '.he orators of government, and of the Tribunate,
before the IcgiHative body, which fandlims them or rejefts them, with-
out any difculhon by fecret fcrutiny.

«' The government may retradt a project of a law, in whatever ftatc^
of difciiflion it may be.

« The Legiflacive body, and the Tribunate are renewed in par4 each
vear, and the new members are chofen by the confervative Senate, upon
Jills formed by the eledloral colleges of the departments, of wliich the
members arc for life. Thefe cledoral colleges of the departments arc
cliofen by the eleftorr\l colleges of the aroniitfftnaiis, or dillrict? them-
fclves, ele6\ed by aifemblies of each canton, or what might be called in
old Eiigliih tything, compofed of houfholders. The emperor names
the prelident of each affembly of the canton ; and the prelident chufes
the Icrutators and the fecretary." Thefe aflemblies, as well as thofe of
the eledloral colleges, are convoked and diffblved by order of the empe-
ror ; wlio can alfo add to each college of the diilridl ten members named
by himfelf, and twenty to each electoral college of the department.

" The members of the confervative Senate are for life. The nomina-
tion belongs to the emperor, who prefents three, of whom the choice
belongs to the fenate itfclf; or, according to another difpofition^ the
emperor may prefent one, the Tribunate one, and the legiflative body
one. Thefe members muft be taken from a lift, formed by the eleftoral
colleges of the departments ; but the emperor may, without the partici*
patioii of the fenate, and without any attention to the eleftoral colleges,
name any pcrfon member of the confervative Senate, provided that he
have attained the age prefcribed by the law, and that the number do not
exceed 120.

" The fenate cannot proceed to any bufinefs, except it be propofed
by the emperor, fave only in cafes of its own arrangements. But by its
feiiatus'coiijultust which cannot proceed except upon the proportion of
the emperor, it exercifes fupreme power even upon the conlUtutional
laws, in adding, explaining, or fufpending the execution ; in diiTolving
the legiflative Dody, and tne tribunate $ and even in annulling the judg«
ments of the civil and criminal tribunals, when it fuppofes them obnox*
ious to the fafety of the ftate.

" Excepting the fupremacy of the fenate, and right of pardon, which
belongs to the emperor, the tribunal of caffation exercifes the fupreme
judiciary power, with a right of cenfure and difcipline over the tribunals

',-,.•■

* M. Walckenaer, in Ills tnnilationof the large edition of tlils Geogrephy, Paris J 804,
1 vol. 8vo. i, 59, Some aUerations have bcea aiionted. in confcQucncc of the recmt

12Z

FRANCE.

of appca], and the criminal tribunals, annulling 'their judgments
cafes of contradidion to the law, or want of form, and even with il"
power of fufpending the judges. There is a grand judge or minifter of
juftice, who, on folemn occafions, prefuk-s in the tribunal of cafiation
and the tribunals of appeals. There are alfo, unhappily, for certui'
crimes fpccial tribunals ; of which the judgments are not fubjeft to an
peal, being exempt from the ordinary forms. All the judges, exceui
the juftices of peace, are for life, and named by the emperor, nevcrthe
lefo for thofe of the tribunal of cafTation he prefents three perfons to the
fenate, whofc choice is definitive.

Population.] The population of France was formerly computed at

<b6,ooo,ooo, but the recent acquifitions, if durable, would fwell it to the

formidable extent of 32,000,000. At all events, France is a countiv

teeming with population, and quickly refumcs her vigour after llupendous

lofles, as Europe has repeatedly experienced.

Colonies.] In 1 8 i o France may be laid to have no colonies.

Army.] The political convulfxons which have agitated this unhappy
country, tlio cntluifial'm, and yet more the defpotiini, of freedom, have
occalibnally, within thefe few years, fwelled the French armies to the
amazing computatioji of upwards of a million. But it may fafcly be
doubted whether the real amount at any time exceeded 6co,ooo efFettive
men, the French having fwelled their own numbers to intimidate their
enemies, and thofe of the latter to apologize for their defeats. Under the
royal government the army of France was eftimatcd at 225,000, of which
were infantry 170,000, cavalry 44,000, artillery 1 1,000*.

Navy.] The maritime power of France was formidable even to
England, till the battle of La Hoguc, fince which the Britifh flag has
reigned triumphant on the ocean ; and the ftruggles of France, though
often energetic, have encountered the fixed deltiny of inevitable defeat.

Revenues.] The revenue of France was formerly computed at about
30,000,0001. fterling ; from which, after deducing the expwnce of col.
feftion, and the payment of the intereft on the national debt, there re-.
mained clear about i8,ooo,oool.; but any attempt to calculate the prefeiit
ftate of the revenue .mull be vague and inconclufive. According to
the moft recent accounts it amounted to about 25,000,0001. fterling.

The common current money of France has been computed at
90,000,000!. fterling, while that of Great Britain has been eftimated at
40,000,0001. The late conquefts have enriched France, and efpecially
Paris, with the rapine of many provinces ; and the generals vie with the
Romans in wealth and luxury.

Political importance and relations.] The political importance
and relations of France continue to be vaft ; nor was the prodigious
power of this ftate ever fo completely felt and acknowledged, as after a
revolution and a war which threatened her very cxiftence. When ex-
pected to fall an eafy prey, ftie fuddenly arofe the aggreflbr, and has
aftonilhed Europe by the rapidity and extent of her viftories.'. The ri-
valry of many centuries between France and England funk into a petty
difpute, when compared with this miglity contell, which will be felt and

* By the Etat Mtlitairf, a calfndar revived, for tljc clghtJ] year of the republic, it ap-
pears that the Freiieh armies coufillod of 110 demi-hrigades, each of three battalions, riiJ
wlieii complete, of 3,'iOO men ; of ;)0 light demi-brigades of like number; 8 regiments
of foot artillery, each of ilO companies ; 8 of horfo artillery, caeli of 466 men ; 26 rrs'-
nients of cavalry, and 20 regimeiUs of dras^oons, each uf 800 men; 25 rrgimenttdl"
chaffevirs, and 12 regiments of nuffars, of the like niimber. Tlie whole, without intludiiig
Uit engineers, miners, &c. &c. fonainjr a force of 11-3,728.

I deplored

[A.VNERS AND CI

FRANCE.

123

Jeplored by diftmit pofterity. Yet, by the protection of all-ruling pro-
^\lv:e, the Britifli empire has rifen luperior to the ilruggles, and re-
,,; i free from thofe fcenes of carnage and dcvaftation which attended
• Vrench progrels into other countries ; and the French navy being re-
a : 'A'o iiiiignificant a force, Great Britain has lefs to apprehend from
j'lance, than at any former period. The other powers ot Europe, ex-
cept Spain aad Portugal, are either the viftims or aObciates of the am-
bitious projeds of France.

CHAPTER III.

CIVIL GEOGRAPHY,

planners and CuJloms.^-^Language, — Literature. — Education. — Univerjttui.
^Cities and Towns. — Edifices. — In/and Navigation.-— MantifaSures and

Commerce.

„ T T'HE manners and cuftoms of the

Manners and customs.] ^ French have been fo often delineated,

that the theme has become trivial and familiar. The moll pleafing parts
of the portrait are vivacity, gaiety, politenefs, a fingular difpofition to-
wards focial enjoyments, and that happy art which enables the adept to
difpofc of his occupations and pleafures in an agreeable fucceflion, free
from HiUeflhefs or fatigue. On the other hand ancient and recent events
confpire to affix a fanguinary ftain on the national charatter, which one
would little expe6l amid fo much gaiety, and feeming benevolence.

The ancient and rooted enmity between France and England nouriflied
many prejudices againft the French charadter, which have fince difap-
peared in the reports of more candid authors. Yet, with travellers ac-
cultomed to the elegance of Englifli life, many of the French manners
and cuftoms cannot be reconciled to ideas of phyfical purity ; and the
loofeuefs of morals, in regard to the fex, has become proverbial. Even
the republican form of government did not fuper-induce republican
manners, nor has the Hberty of divorce proved any bond of chaftity.

Language.] The French language is the moll univerfatty diffufed
of any in Europe. In variety, clearnefs, and .precifion, and idioms
adapted to life, buflnefs and pleafure, it yields to no modern fpeech ;
but it wants force and dignity, and yet more, fublimity. The critics
and academicians of the feventeenth century enabled fuch fevere laws of
purity, that, hke gold reduced to the utmoft finenefs, it has become
Ibft and incapable of deep impreffions. The French language is a well
known corruption of the Roman, mingled with Celtic and Gothic words
and idioms. Even in the tenth century it continued to be called Ro-
mance ; a name which afterwards paffed to the poems and tales of chi-
valry, as being compofed in this dialed!. One of the earlicft fpecimens
of French profe is the hittory by Villehardouin, which was followed by
Joinville's life of St. Louis, and the copious and fmgular chronicle of
Froiflart. But while the Italian remains the fame from the days of
Dante and Pstrarca, the epoch of claffical purity of the French language
commences with the reign of Louis XIV. The recent revolution has
introduced fuch eajubcrance of new words and phrafes, that a neological
ditlionary is required to explain them.

J-jiT^ii.iTURf . J The literature of France has, in modern times, ex.

cited

124

TRANCE.

cited great refpe(Sl and admiration. In the bold exertions of invem'
genius, and even in profound produAions of philofophy, France can '^'
afpire to vie w^ith Italy or England; but in the pleafing and beautiTl
paths of invention, and in books of elegant learning and exatt fde
ihe remains alinoft unrivalled. French literature, like that of the oth^*
inodcfn countries of Europe, originates with the ecclefialtics, who co '

piled chronicles and theological produdions. Even in the Roman period
fome authors of refpcclability appeared in France, as Aufonius, a nati
" ^ rdeaux; Sidoniiis Apolhnaris, and others ; ar.d Severus Sulpitiuo
of the life of St. Martin, has been ilyled the Chriftian Saliuft*
i the conqucft. of Gaul by the Franks break the erolden rliain 'c

of Bourdeaux ;
author

Nor did the conqucft. of Gaul by the Franks break the golden chain of
fcicnce, which was continued by Gregory of Tours, and other venerable
writers. The coUedlion of ancient liiftorians of France is fingularU
complete and important. I:i the eleventh century the ufe of the Latin
began to be fuppla.ited by the modern dialect. But it would be idla
and fuperfluous to attcinipt to enumerate the crowd of modern authors
who have refledted honour on their language and country. Who is a
ftranger to the Roman grandeur of Corneille, to the tender and elegiac
elegance of Racine, the tragic pomp and terror of Crebillon, the comic
powers of Molicre, the naivete, tRe I'ubtle fimplicity of La Fontaine
the placid iiiHrudtion of Fenelon, the gaiety of Greifet, the cauftic vi*
vaeity of Voltaire ?

Education".] The (late of education in all the Catholic countries
was very defeftive till the Jefuits acquired great eftimation by their at-
tention to this important department ; to which, if their exertions had
been folely diredled, they would have proved a noil ufeful body of men.
National education has jullly attraded the attention of the new rulers
with what fucct^fa time muft difcover ; for there is a wide difference
between forming a plaufible fcheme, rmd the putting of it in lading exe-
cution, with regulations and funds that fupport thcmfelves. Under
whatever form of government the ignorant will be found the moH
unmanageable ; and thofe who attempted to extinguifh what they
termed the ariftocracy of talents, united, as ufuaU every vice to cou.
fummate igo orance.

UviVEicsiTiivs.] France formerly boafted of twenty-one univerfitics ;
in the nor'ih Douay, Caen, Paris, Rheims, Nanci, Strafbourgj in the
middle pr evinces Nantes, Angers, Poitiers, Orleans, Bourges, Dijon,
Befan^oM ; and in the fouth Bourdeaux, Fau, Perpignan, Touloufe,
Montpcllier, Aix, Or^ge, Valence *. Of thefe the Sorbonne of Paris
was tht mod celebrated : but it fliewed an irremediable tendency to pro-
Jong- tlie reign of fcholaftic theology. The academics and literary
focieties were computed at thirty-nine. Thofe of Paris^ in particular,
have bi'en long known to the learned world, by elegant and profuuiid
volumes of diflertations on the fciences, and on the Belles Letvrcs. Nor
have pub lie inllitutiuns of this kind been foreign to the confideration of the
new government.

CiTiia; AND Towns.] The ample extent of this country difplaysa
currefponding number of important cities and towns. Paris, the capital,
rifes on U oth fides the river Seine, in a pleafant and healthy fituation,
with deligl itful environs. It is divided into three parts ; tl;^ town, vUle
on the nortl i, the city in the middle, and that part called the univerfity on
the fouth. It is mentioned by Cxiar f as being re drifted in his time to
an ifland ii^ the midd of the Seine. An intelligent traveller fuppofei

# L« f Ciuix Gtograpliif, tcine i. 979*

t vii. 54,

FaiU

TRANCE.

ii$.

Paris to ^^ one-third fmallerthan London * : and the inhabitants prolaably
f^ (lone, but not froni the ancient quarries Hke catacombs, which run

amount

to between 5 and 600,000. The houfes are •hiefly built wit»

in various direftions under the ftreets ; fo that an earthquake would
Vj peculiarly deftruftive, and might completely bury the fouthern part
of the city. Tlie banks of the Seine prefent noble quays; and the
tublic buildings are not only elegant in themfelves, bat are placed in
Ln and commanding fituations. The Louvre is arranged among the
Ml fpecimens of modern architedUirc ; and the church of St. Gene-
vieve, now the Pantheon, is alfo defcrvedly admired ; nor muft the?
Thuilleries, the Palais Royal, and Hofpital of Invalids be forgotten,
Paris, no doubt, exceeds London in magnificence, but yields greatly ia
jleanlincfs and convenience ; and the llreeLs, generally without accommo-
^tion for foot pafTengers, loudly bcfpoak the iiaitention of the govern-
ment to the middle and lower claflcs of mea. The recent revolution has
jilile impaired the beauty of Paris ; on the contrary, the rapine of feveral
provinces has enlarged and adorned th*e public collctSlions; and, by en-
riching numerous individuals, l>us enabled tlicm to increafe their favourite
(ity with now and beautiful (Ircets.

Next to P.iris in extent and ^.opulation was the noble city of Lyons,
vhicli was fuppofod to contain about 100,000 fouls. As the chief
itianufaftures were articles of luxury, fdk, cloths of gold, and filver, &c.
it was natural that this venerable town (houTd be firmly attached to the
ancient ariftocracy, though with confequences incalculably fatal to its
profpcrity. During the infatuated reign of the jacobins it was beficged,
captured, and, after the wildcft and bufeft mailacres, was doomed to
final demolition. But as there are bounds even to rage and folly, this
decree was only executed in part ; though Lyons will probably never
recover its ancient extent and opulence. The new government lends,
however, the moll liberal encouragement.

The third and fourth cities of France are Marfcllles and Bourdcaux ;
fach peopled by about 80,000 fouls. The foundation of Marfeilles has
been already rnentioned, and the city remains worthy of its ancient fame,
the p«rt being at the fame time one of the bell and moil frequented in the
wholj Mediterranean. The exchange is a noble building, and the new
parts of the city are beautiful.

Bourdeaux was a profperous city, but the trade mivfl have fuffereJ
mat injury. The port is ample and commodious, withextenfive quays.
The chief exports are wine and brandy, particularly the vin de Bourdeaux,
which we term claret, becaufe it is of a clear and tranfparent red, while
tcrt and fomc other wines are opake. The theatre is the mod magnificent
in France, and the adlors ufed to receive cKtravagant falarics ; and as
much as London exceeds Paris, fo much did Bourdeaux, before the rc«
Tolution, tranfcend Liverpool f.

In giving a brief idea of the other chief cities and towns of France, it
maybe premifed that thofe of the Netherlands, formerly bt-longing to
Aiii^ria, arc referved for feparate defcription. But among thofc which
formerly belonged to what was lliled French Flanders, may be nainrd
Lifle and Valenciennes ; the former more mcmoiahle for its llrcuglli,
than for its manufadures of camlets and Huffs. The population is com-
puted at 60,000. Valcncicimes is alfo remarkable for the ftrength of its
fortifications; yet on the 26th of T-dy, 1793, '* furrendrred to thu
Englilh and Aullrian army, under tlu Duke of York ; but was retaken

* Young'» t'nnce, i, f 6.

+ Young, i. 60.

ti6

FRANCE.

by the French army in the following year. The chief manufa'^lures are
lace, camlets, and cambrics.

Amiens is a confiderable town, with a population of about 40 oco-
but Rouen, formerly the capital of Normandy, contains 72,000 fouls'
and carries on a confiderable trade. Brell is more remarkable as bein '
the chief maritime arfenal of France in the north, than for its extent or
population, which does not exceed 30,000. Nantes, with a population
of 56,000, is a beautiful commercial city, with a fplendid theatre, and
many new ftreets, but the environs are barren and unintcrellin^ *
Orleans, a city of about 40,000 fouls, is celebrated by two fieges wlijcli
it fuftained, one agninft Attila, king of the Huns, in the fifth centurv
the other againft the Englifli in the fifteenth. Nancy, in Lorraine i'
not equal to Metz in extent, but is one of tlie moll beautiful cities in
France. Strafhourgh is a venerable city, with a population of about
40,000, feized by Louis XIV., in 168 1, and confirmed to him by tin.,
peace of Ryfwick, in 1697." The fortifications are llrong ; and the
Gothic cathedral prefents a fpire of 574 feet in height.

Few of the other inland towns dcferve mention, except Touloufe a
city of 50,000 fouls ; and the parliament of wliicli was cllcemcd, unda
the old government, next in rank to that of Paris ; the extent is great
but the manufadlures are trifling, thougli here be the termination of the
great canal, opened by Louis XIV., from the Mediterranean to the Ga-
ronne, a work truly magnificent, and which alone would prefcrve liis
memory to future ages. Mont pell ier, on the Mediterranean, with deli-
cious and highly ornamented environs, and a noble aqucdLict, is of con.
fiderable extent, but particularly celebrated by the i.ilul;riiy of tin- air
and an ancient fchool of medicine. The profpcft is iii).^ularly cxtciuive
and interelling, endjracing the Pyrenees on the one fide, iind on the other,
the yet grander fummits of tlie Alps f .

Edificks.] Several of the moll noble edifices of France are in Paris,
and its vicinity. To thofe already mentioned mull Ik- added, the palace
of V^erfailles, rather remarkable, iiowever, for the profufiun of expcnfe,
than for the (Inll of the archite<5^ ; the part;; being imVl and ui.liar-
monious, and the general effeft rather idle pomp llian true grandeur.
The bridge of Neuilly, a league from Paris, is ellecmid tlic moll b^-au-
tiful in Europe, confitling of five wide arclief of e(iual fi/e. 'I'Ik'
ancient cathedrsls and caltles are fo numerous that it would be idle to at-
tempt to enumerate them: and the French nobdity were not contcntid,
like thofe of Spain, with large houfes in the cities, but had ^rand cha-
teaux fcattered ovi r tlie kingdom, to whieii, however, they ieMeii
reHred, except when compelled by formal banilhment from the court.

Inland N.wigatios.] The inland navigation of France has bivi
promoted by feveral capital exertions. The cana! of Biiare, «n!Hr<'.;!'i
ityled thit of Burgundy, wis begun by Henry IV., and compktid by
Louis XI IL opening a communication Ixtwem the Loire and the .StitK,
or in other words, between Paris and the wellfrn provinces, r.iniiij^
by Montargis it joir.s the eanal of Orleans, ai d falls into the Seine ni ar
Fontainbleau. This navigation of forty-two lo' li, i* of g-eat utilft) in
inland commerc | .

The canal of Picardy extends from the Somme to the Oife, beginning
at St, Oumtin, and iorming a convenient inlercourfe to the provliicewft
the N. E.

• Young's Fr»nc«, i. 104«

t Youii^'a I'Mnirj i, 4

But

FRANCE.

Diit the chief work of this defcviplion is the celebrated canal of Lan-
criicJoc, fonuncnccJ aud completed in the reign of Louis XIV., by
Riquft, tlie engineer, under the aufpices of that able minifter Colbert.
Fifteen )Tars of labour were employed, from 1666 to 1681, and the me-
chanical i(j[norance of the period was furpri<ed at a tunnel near Beziers,
of o»b' 7-° ^^^^* lined with free-ftone. ThI: noble canal begins irv the
tav of Languedoc ; and at St. Ferriol is a refervoir of 595 acres of
water: it enters the Garonne about a quarter of a mile Lelow the city of
Touloufe. The breadth, including the towing paths, is 1 44 feet ; the
depth 6 feet ; the length 64 French leag:ue?, or about 1 80 nnk'S. The
expenfe was more than half a million fteriing.

The other canals in France are very numerous ; b»it, though of
fupreme utility, are too minute to enter into shis general view of the
kingdom.

por a century, extending from 1650 to 1750, Mr. Young fuppofea
France to have poffefied the moil flovirifliing manufadlures in Europe * ;
and French writers affeft to fpeak of the Englilh manufaftures as being
of recent fame. A flcetch of this important fubjecl, particularly in-
terelting to Great Britair., as the rival of France, Ihall here be traced
from that well-informed atithor. At Abbeville was a famous manu-»
fadure of broad cloth ; and another at l^ouviere in Normandy. At the
fame place, and at Amiens, were manufaftures of ilufls, worlleds, &c.
aiiJfomeof cotton. The manufa»f!ture8 of Orleans were ftockings, and
refined fngar. At Chateau Roux another manufactory of broad clotii<: ;
and in the fame neighbourhood large iron forges. At Limoges ati
hundred looms were employed in weaving drugj^ets of hemp and wool ;
and tl'.e paper mills amounted to fevcnty. The large woollen manu-
fjctory at Cahors had declined ; but tlioic of Montauban continued to
fiHirifli. At Moi.tpellier were coniiderable niarufaC^ures of blankets
and filk liandkorcliiofs ; but thofe of Nifmrs were lliil more important
ill lilk, cotton, and thread : and at Gauge was the chief maniifafture
of filk (Inckings in all Fnince. The Londrins for the Levant wert*
chiefly made at IVg-dc-Ritux, and at CarcafTonne. At Pau are large
manufadures of linen. Tour haii long been celebrated for fdks. Beau-
v.tis, one of the moll aftive towns in France, fupplies tapellries and
printed calliooo''. The fabrication of ^late glafs at St. Gobin is well
known a^ the firll in Enr')pe, At St. Quintin arc made linen,
cambric, and gauzes. Cambrics derive their name from Cambray ;
and the laces of Valenciennes have been long known. Lifle difplays fine
cloths and camblefs. Mr. Young ilyles Rouen the Manchelter of
France, being a town eminent in contmerce, and in manufadlures of velvet,
.ind coftou cloths ; and Caen boalls of her filky fleeces. Brrtagne in
1,'cncrallias niimcnnis nianufadturcs of tlircad and linen. The fine clothii
made at Louvitre our author eflcriiis the'firll in the world, and at the
fame place is a large cotton mill. Rlieims is remarkable for wool-
len;,. Tlie lilk manufictureg of Lyons were eilimated to employ
60,000 people, the loors being computed at 12,000. Iron manu-
factures flouriflied at Nantes, Mont Cenis, St. PiuUippc-cn-forct, and
ftveral other places.

From this detail fome idea may be formed of the commerce of Franc*.
By the accc int for 1784, whicli did not include the province! of Loi«
iiiii and ^Iface, nor the Well Indian trade, the llutcmetit was

'! ■ lit

• Yi ung's Fr««c^, i, }6',J.

Ttttal

I'i i . InuiL^

4a8

FRANCE.

Total exports, 307,151,700 livres.
— — imports, 271,365,000

Balance, 35,786,700 or L. !,565,668 ftcrling

The trade with the Weft Indies gave a large balance againft Francr
which, in 1786, exported to the amount of more than 64,000000
livres, but the imports exceeded 174,000,000. The averacre imporiq
of France in 1788 were about twelve millions and a half Uerling, the ex-
ports nearly 15,000,000. The imports of Great Britain in the fame
year were about 18,000,000. the exports fevcnteen and a half*. Since
the French revolution the commerce of England has been conllautly yj;
the increafe j while that of our rival has been almofl annihilated.

' CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL OEOGRAPilY.

CTtmaie an^ Seafons. — Face of the Country. — Soil and ^^^rkuh tire — Rivns,
, — Lakes. — Mount a'iru . — Fonjlt . — liotany . — ZouL^< . — Miner alovv .—
Mineral Waters. — Natural CuricJJtics.

Climate and seasons.] T^?^ '^^"'''' °^^" extcnfive a countrya-

-■ jI. rrancc, may be expected to be varioiif,
tn general it is far more clear and ferene than that of England ; but th<
northern provinces are expofed to heavy rains, wliich lun<\ >er prrttfuc
beautiful verdure and rich palluresf. Fmnce may be divided ir.to thro'
climates, the northern, the central, and the fouthern. The full yield^ no
wines J the fccond no maize ; the third produce wines, maize and o\\\c:.
Thefe divifions proceed in an oblique line from the S« W. to the N. E.,
fo as to demonltrate " that the eallern part of the kingdom is two niid u
half degrees of latitude lidttcr than the wcftern, or if nc^t hotter mnief.i.
Vourable to vegetation." One great advantage of the climate of Fi;\iuy
arifes from its being .id<ipted to the culture of the vine, which floinidks
in fpots that would otherwiff he wallc.

Fack of the roiNTKY.] 'Plu- face of the countr}' is generally lain i
and the only moinitains defervitig of the name are found in the fouth, h
Auvergne and I.anguedoc, Daupiiinc and Provence. Brittany coirif.
ponds greatly with Cornwall, and abounds in extenlive heallis. In Lor
rain are found the moinitains of \'ofges, far inferior to the lontlierii (!■.
vitions. For beauty the Eircofin is perhaps fuperior to any oilur \)\v.
viiice of France : yet much of the country is finely iltvirfil'ied with ! !"
and dale, and the rivers, particularly the Seine, are often grand and p; -
turcfque.

SoJL AND AGUicULTlilir.] The variations of the fi)il have hronwi'i
defcribed by Mr. Yoimg}. The N. E. part from Flanders to Orlia;
is a rich loam. Further to the VV. the land is poor and llopy ; l^rittai.y
being genir.illy gravel, or gravelly (and, with low ridgen of granite. T!i
clialk runs through the centre of the kingdom, from (iermany by Cham.
pagnc to Saintonge ; and on the N. of the mountainous tr.id h a large
extent of gravel, but even the mountainous region of the foulh isgeiie'

* YoMg/ i. 539.

t ll>i«l. t. au9.

; 114. i. 9»fi.

rally

FRANCE*

ti^

rHv fert'^^» t^oug^ t^»e large province formerly called Gafcdrty prefent
many lanJes, or level heaths.

The fame writer has ably illuftrated the defeAs of French a?riculture«
which conlUl in frequent fallows, while the Englifh farmers obtain even
fuperior crops of corn, by fubftituting turnips and other green crops to
the fallows : befides the clear profit from his clover^ turnips or tares.

In fume of the provinces, however, the plans of agriculture correfpond
with the natural fertility of the foil ; and others difplay a moft laudable
induilry* A driking initance of the latter is the artificial fertility conferred
on feme of the barren mountains of the Cevennnes *. As the waters
which run down the fides carry confiderable quantities of earth into the
ravines, walls of loofc Hones are eredted which permit the waters to pafs
when they are clear; but when turbid their load of earth is gradually
(lepofited againlt the wall, and affords a fpace of fertile foil. Succcffive
ramparts arc thus crcfted to the very top of the mountain ; and the
wiiter, having no longer a violent fall, only ferves to nourifli the cropg^
which are moreover protected by planting fruit trees at certain intervals,
li) as to lend fecurity and confiftence to the new acquifition. By anothef
procefs calcareous mountains, which generally rife in (helves, are rendered
produftive by cutting away the rock behind the fheif, which fupplies
materials for a low wall around the edge. The interval is afterwardii
filled writh earth, and the barren mountain is crowned with luxuriant
terraces.

Rivers.] The rivers of France form the next obje£l of confideration }
and among thcfe four are eminent, the Seine, the Loire, the Rhone, and
the Garonne. The firft is one of the moll beautiful ftreams of France*
riling near Saint Seine, in the modern department of C6te d'Or, a portion
of ancient Burgundy ; it purfues its courfe to the N. W. till it enter the
Englifh channel at Havre de Grace, after a courfe of about 2^o EngliAt
miles. It may here be remarked that the length afllgned to rivers is not
calculated with cxadlnefs, a work uf infinite and uncertain labour, but
merely affords a comparative fcale, to judge of the relation which the
courfe of one river bears to another.

The Loire derives its fource from Mont Gerbier in the N. of an*
cient Langucdoc ; and after a northern courfe turns to the weft, enter*
int^ the ocean a confiderable way beyond Nantes, after a courfe of about
500 miles.

Tlip Rhone fprings from the Glacier ©f Furca, near the mountain of
Grimfil in Swiiferland ; and after paflin^ the beautiful vales of Valhis,
and the lake of Geneva, bends its coi: - towards the fouth) and enier^
the Mediterranean. The comparative courfe 400 miles*

The Garonne rifes in the vale of Aran in the Pyrenees. The courfe of
this river is generally N. W. It extends to about 250 raileu. After tt«
junction with ihc Dordogne, it aifumes the name of the Gironde*

The Seine is almoit univerfally pleafing and pi£turefque ; and the Loir?
piefents noble features from Angiera to Nantes, but the rell of its immenfe
courfe is disfigured with rough gravel f. The Garonne gentrally per*
vades a flat country, and is tamely fringed with willows. The Rhone
it a noble and rapid llrcam.

France is adorned and enriched with many rivers of fmaller courfe and
reputation ( as the Saone, which Joins the Rhone near Lyons } the Lot
and Dordogne, which joint the uarontic ) and the nuAcrous tributary
llreatns of tno Loire.

* ^!'H;hotfut>^ Jvwnkt, ill. <)9)'

t Voung'iFnincf, i. 30*.

ml-'} *-^

130

FRANCE.

Lakes."] A few final! lakes occur in Provence, among the Vofwpt
of Alface, and pcrliaps in (cw of thf? other provinces, but only adapted
to the minute delcription of the tO])ographer, France and Spain beiBo-
fuiifnlarly deficient in this plcaHnjv fcatnrp of landlcape. ^

Mountains.] Before proceeding to the grand cliain of mountains in
the S. of France, ic may be proper briefly to mention a few mountainous
tradts in the worth. Thofe of Brittany are granitic and primitive but
like thofe of C«.)nnvall of fmall elevation. They divide into branches to.
V ards Brell and Alt-n^an, The Vofges, in the department of that name
in the S. of ancient I>orrain, are fuppoicd to be connefted with the
nioimtains of Swifferland *.

Mont Jura, a vanguard of the Alps, forms a boundary between
l"" ranee and Swiflerland. If Mont Blanche admitted among the French
•nonntains, the other Alps cannot rival its fupreme elevation. The an-
cient province of Dauphine difplays feveral Alpine brancheSj which alfo
extend through great part of Piovence.

The grand chain of the Cevennes pafles from N. to S, and

fends out bran.^hes towards the E. and W. In the modem departments

of the upper I oire and Cantal, are appearances which, in the opinion of

eminent naturi!i • -;, indicate ancient volcanoes. The northern part of this

branch is llyl "I the Piiy de Dome, while the fouthcrn is called that of

Cantal f . 'i'Ik Monts Dor | form the centre, and are the higheft mcun-

f'Ub ;.j Fra; ct The chief elevation is that of the Puy dc Sanfi, winch

rifet ..')oti' 6,jOO feet above the level of thefea, while the Puy de Dome

is ai our r ,00, -ijid the Plomb du Cantal, the higheft of that part, is

abou 6.".. . foet. Near the Puy de Sanfi is the gigantic mountain

l'An;_ ->, and Fv uiiade a fhattered and wrecked elevation. The Plomh

du Canial in a liVj accompanied by bold rivals, as the PuydeGrioi-, Ic

Colde Cabre, lie Puy Mari, and the Violent. This vnormous aficmbiagc

of rocks covers an extent of about 120 miles, and according to the

FVcnch authors is chiefly bafaltic. The Puy de Sanfi is capped with

almoft' perpetual fnow, followed in the defcent by naked rocks and ancient

pines ; from its fide ifTues from two fources, the river Dordogne, and

w.any pidhirefque cafcades devolve amidll bafaltic coliunns ^. On the

23d of June, 1727, Pradines, a village on the hope of oiie of thefe mouii.

tains, was totally overwhelmed, the whole mountain with its baialtic co.

lunins roUing into the valley. Tli'.' inhabitants were fortiuiately engaged

in the celebration of midfummer r;ve around a bonfire at fome dillance ||.

Thefe mountains are in winif r exp(ifed to dreadful fnowy hurricanes,

called a^/rj, which in a few hourb «)bhterate the ravines, and even the

precipice*, and defcendiupf 'o the paths and ftreets, confine the inhabitants

to their dwellings till ;\ . .<mmunicatiwn can be opened with their neigh-

hours, fometimcs in the form of an ardi under the vail mafs of fnow.

Wretched the travel! f who is thus ovei -t \ken His path diiappcars,

the precipice cannot be diltiuguifhed from the levrl ; if he (land he is

chilled, an.! buried if he proceed ; his eyt^fight fails ami. '^ the fnowy

• I*iiiieili. Then, dela Tcrri", iv. U84. ;. - t

•f- Viiy. l)uiis Us ilep.irt, rutual, j). 5.

X Ndi d'Or, A^ loiniiiuiily f|)i-llc(l The name ii dftivod from the river Por, wliick
irtth titr l^ugae uimi iltc Dunlugue. See Le Graitd't curious vujngf U'Auvergn, i
vuU. fivo.

I Ih p. M.

II Vov d«irt In I'-part. C«ntal,p. 24. One vaft block of ftone, 90 f^ft lonj; mi
9'< tlitCK, l>r n^* to I heavy tu rull, funk vrrtic'a^v, vnd the ikock fctiined hii eikrthqiitlie
' rn ui the (i'.H iikOi' ' t a Ifit^u''. Auothcr uiuum^iu i< laud to luvc recently funk i?.l
«iiM^^<i«rr<i til Ut<' S. vt 1 uiuc

diirknefj;

FRANCE*

J3t

Jjrknefs ; his refpiration is impeded, his head becomes giddy, he falls
and perifties- In fummer thunder ftorms are frequent and terrible, and
jjdonipanied with torrents of large hail, which deftro%, the fruits and
jldcks, which for fix months pallure on the mountains, gjuarded by
Hiepherds, who have temporary cabins of turf and reed, ftyled burons.

Tl'j Pyrenees remain to be defcribed. This v^ait chain, known and
celebrated fiace the days of Herodotus, may be confidered with equal
juilice as belonging either to France or to Spain ; but as the moft pro*'
■juAive and interefting parts are on the fide of France, and her literati
(lave exerted themfelves in the defcription, while thofe of Spain have been
fiient, it feems at leall equally proper to introduce the delineation here*
which fliall be chiefly derived from the recent accounts of Ramond and
I^apeyroufe *. To the furprife of naturaliltd, the Pyrenees have been
found to prefent calcareous appearances, and even fliellsand flceletonsof
animals, near or upon their higheil fummits, which are in the centre of
tlie chain. Mont Perdu is confidered as the higheil elevation of the Py-
renees, afcending above the fea 1751 French toifes, or about 11,000 feet
Englift. Other noted heights are Marbore, the Pic dc Midi, the Niege
V'ille, kc. The Pyrenean chain appears at a diltance like a ihaggy
fidge, prefenting the fegment of a circle fronting France, und defconding
at each extremity till it difappear in the ocean and Mediterranean f.
Thus at St. Jean de Luz only high hills appeal", and in like manner on
j!ier!t beyond the fummit Canigou, the elevations gradually diminilh.
The high'Ml fummits are crowned with perpetual fnow. Blocks of gra-
[heareiiiterfpcrfed with vertical bands, argillaceous and calcareous, the
latier primitive or fecondary, and fupplying the marbles of Campan and
Antiii, of red and green fpotted with white, though the general moun-
tain mafs be grey. To the S. and W. the Pyrenees prefent nothing but
dreadful ijerility, but on the N. and E. the defcent is more gradual, and
affords frequent woods and paitures. Befides tlie dreadful fall of rocks,
undermined by the waters, they are expofed to Lavanges, or the impe-
iiious defcent of va(l mafles of fnow, called Avalanches in SwiiTcrland, and
havf their glaciers and other terrific features of the Alps.

According to Ramond | tlu* very fummit of mount Perdu abound«
ifith marine fpoils. This mountain is of very difficult aecofi, as the cal-
careous rock often alFumeH the form of perpendicula.'" walls, from 100 to
600 feet in height ; and the fnows, ice, a;ul glacier;, incroalc the difficulty.
Near the fummit is a confiderable lake, more than yoco feet above the
level of the fea, which throws its waters to the eall into the Spanifli valley
of BeoulTa. The bell maps of the Pyrenees are error.cous, as this lake
has noconneclion with the noted calcades of Marbore, which flow from
another lake to the well ; and Lapeyroufe has pointed out other grcfa
millakes in the topography of this interelliiig diltrid. Mr. Townfend §
obferves, that the limellone and fchillus teed the vegetation 00 the N. of
the Pyrenees, while the fouth is barren and conlills of ^.'^ranite ; 'hough
I mountains arc generally barren and pre.npitous on the S. uad VV. becaule
the moil violent rains and tcmpells come from thofe regions.

Forests, j The forettsof France are numerous andextenfive ; ami as

[wood is the general fuel, attention to their growth becomes indifpenfable.

Tuo of the moft remarkable are thofe of Orleans and Ardenn*-;, the for-

mtv for extent and the numerous troop» of banditti wl j uied to infr't its

prccinfts ; the latter for ancient fame and events of chivalry. The foreft

• JournBl del Mire», No. 37, p- 09.
; Juurn. del Mb. No. 46. p. 7 ^7 •

f Voy. dani leiDcp. No. 67, p. 4.
I iSpaiik, i- 89.

■ii

■(*■

'iM

i«ia

X3»

FRANCE.

of Ardennes lextended from Rheims to Toumay, and on the N. E. ta
Sedan in the prefent department of the Ardennes. To thefe name*
might be added the foreft of Fontainbleau, and many others which here
to enumerate would be fuperfluous.

Botany.] Notwithftanding the pains that have hitherto beenbeftow.
cd by French naturahits in illuilrating the flora of their native countrv*
it ftill remains in an impcrfeft ftate : particular diftri£ls, as the environs
of Montpellier, of Lyons, and of Paris, have been furveyed with con.
fiderable accuracy, but many chafms muft yet be filled before a com!
prehenfive hiftory can be made out of the vegetable produd^ions of
France. So great indeed is its extent, and fo various its cKmate, that
proba)>Iy more than half the European fpecies of plants may be found
within its boundaries. The bleak fhores of the North, the fertile plains
on the Belgian frontier, the rich vales of the Loire, the Rhone and Gs.
ronne, the towering heights of Auvergne, the exterior ridges of the Alps
and Pyrenees, the funny expofure of the Mediterranean coaft, offer fuch
Ariking differences of foil and temperature, as evince at once a moft abun-
dant catalogue of indigenous plants. That country which produces in
full and equal perfedion wlteat and apples, maize and grapes, oranges and
olives, the oak and the myrtle, muil doubtlcfs exceed all other European
countries of equal extent in the variety and richnefs of its vegetable trea-
fures. A bare enumeration of them would occupy more room than can
be allotted to them in a work like the prefent. We fliall therefore only
pcTticularife fuch as are the molt generally intereiling to the £ngli(li
reader.

Of the large family of compound flowers may be mentioned the laven.
der cotton, and common fouthern wood, both of them plentiful on tht
rocks of Dauphine and Provence ; the alpine Cacalia abounds on the
mountainous frontiers of Savoy and Piedmont, and a few efculent vegeta.
bles that are cultivated in our kitchen gardens, but grow wild in Langiie.
doc and Provence, arrange themfelves under this cuds ; for inftance, tlie
artichoke, falfafy, and ^orzoncra.

The cucumber, the melon, the gourd, and other kindred genera,
though cultivated largely and with great eafe in the South of France, are
yet natives of hotter climates ; only one of this natural family, the Mo.
mordica elaterium, /quirltng cucumber^ properly belongs to the French
flora ; it occurs in a truly wild Hate, on low loofe rocks, in Provence
and Languednc.

The nearer in general any country is fituated to the tropics, the greater
is the abundance and beauty of the bulbiferous or liliaceous plants that
inhabit it : the South of France is particularly rich in thefe fplendid and
fragrant vegetables, ffveral of which have bewj natura!ized in our gardens,
and conftitute their principal ornament. The large branched A ipnudei, a
flower of great beauty and poetic fame, is by no means wncommon in
Provence. The tawny dar-lily, clullered hyacinth, and fpiked ftarot\
Bethlehem, all are fouiiJ in the Mediterranean provinces of France, a»
arc alfo the orange, p</mpadore, and martagon Ulies ; the white Ijellcborf,
Narciffus, and Jonqu il. The fhorc of Hicres is adorned by the fea daffo-
dil, growing luxuriantly on the very beach ; and on the lower cliffs of
the Nicene and Genoefe Alps, the gigantic Agave > American aloe, nowna-
turahzed to tlie foil and climate, raiies her ftately flower-ftem to t^<• hciglil
of 20 or 30 feet, and looks down on every herbaceous plant of European
origin.

Of the papillionaceouK phnts that are natives of this country, feverall
(i^fcrvc notice *V»r tht.ir ulc »*( ornament. Lathyrus tuberofus, a vej

FRANCE.

of the pea kind) grows wild in AIfacc,and is cultivated in many parts of
France for its large, efculent, tuberous roots ; the great lupin, varying
irith blue, white, or fleHi-cdluured bloflbms, and chick pea, are met with
ill the fouthern provinces growing fpontaneouHy, but are more frequently
cuhivatcd in large fields, as food both for cattle and man ; in England
the former is confidered merely as an ornamental plant, and ia found in
f very flower-garden.

The broad-leaved myrtle grows with great luxuriance along the whole
of the Mediterranean coaft ; the Caper-bu(h, the laurel-leaved and Mont<
pellier ciltus, three low (hntbs of exquifite beauty, hang from the fummits,
orclufter round the fides of the low rocks about Toulon and Montpellier.
In the fame vicinity alfo are found the Pro /ence rofe, the pyracantha, and
the pomegranate tree.

Zoology.] The horfes of France do not appear to have been cele«
brated at any period, and it is well known that the ancient monarchy
tvere drawn to the national affemblics by oxen. Many EngUdi horfes are
in times of peace imported for the coach and faddle. The beft native
horfes are, for draught, thofe of Normandy ; for the faddle, thofe of the
Limotjin, which have been recently improved by croffing the breed with
the Arabian, Turkifli, and Englifh *., But the greater number of horfes
in France confifts of Bidets, fmall animals of little Hiow, but great utility.
The cattle of Limoges, and fome other provinces, are of a beautiful
cream colour. The meep are ill managed, having in winter only ftraw,
inftead of green food as in England f. The confequences are poor
fleeces, and rarity of Hieep, fo that the poor are forced to eat bread only,
and large Quantities of wool are imported. Of ferocious animals the
mod remarkable are the wild boar and the wolf ; tlie ibe* and chamois
are found on the Pyrenees and the Alps.

MiNEKALOGY.] Gold mines anciently exifted in the South of France,
and fome of the rivulets ftill roll down particles of that metal. The an-
cient Gallic coins are however of a bafe gold mingled with fdver, being
tlie metal ftyled by the ancients eleArum. France can, however, boaft of
the filver mines at St. Maric-aux-mines in Alface, and at Giromagny in
the department of the Upper Rhine, near the mountains of Vofges, alfo
apart of ancient Alface. The fame dillri£l contains mines of copper, a
metal not unfrequent in the departments of the Alps, and thofe of the
Loire, the Lozere, and the Ardeche. The duchy of Deux Ponts, a
valuable acquifition of France on the weft of the Rhine, is celebrated for
mines of quickfdver. The mountains which contain this metal embrace
a diilriA of ten or twelve leagues in length, S. to N. from Wolfflein to
Cruznach and feven or eight leagues in breadth, being of a reddifh brown or
grey fand-ilone. In this territory, among numerous mines of quickfdver,
are thofe of Stahlberg and Donnerlberg, which have been explored for
many centuries. The adjacent part of the Palatinate alfo contains fimilar
mines, particularly in the mountain of Potzberg and at Wolfftein. The
piinual produdl of thcfe mines may be eftimated at 67,200 pounds of
mtrcury t. Two-thirds of the lead of France are from Bretagne,
particularly the mines of PouUaouen and Huelgoet ; mines of lead alfo
occur in the maritime Alps, and in the mountains of Vofgcs^ in the
departments of Lozere, Ardfichc, &c. &c. Antimony occurs in the
Ardeche, in the department of the Allier, at AUemont in former Dau-
pliinc, and in that uf Mont Blanc. There are noted mines of calamine
near Aix-la-Chapdle. Mangancfe occurs in the department of the Loire,

• Young'i France, W, i^, f Il>lil i. 4ao.

X Journ. d«i Mineii x\. 43.

and

'Sia^MSUiMdMk.,

«34

FRANCE.

and in that of the Vofges ; iand at Romaneche, in the department of the
Saone and Loire ; it is alfo found near Perigou, whence it ufed to be
called pierre de Perigord : Cobalt is another produ£l of Alface. The
rew acquilitions in Savoy prefent fome mercury ; and there is a mine at
Menildot.

Iron, t)«at mod important and univerfal of metals, is found in abiin.
dance, particularly in fome of the northern departments. In 1798 it was
computed that there were 2000 furnaces, forges, &c. for the working of
iron and Heel *.

• The coal mines of France were ^at the fame time eftimated at 400
conftantly wrought ; and 200 more capable of being wrought. Of thefe
coalmines many occur in the provinces which formerly belonged to Flan-
ders, "and in the dc|->artments of Boulogne and La Manche. Coal is alfo
not unfrequent in the centre and fouth of France. Nearly allied to coal
it jet, an ariicle formerly of great confumption, chiefly in Spain, where it
was made into rofaries, crofles, buttons for black dreffes, &c. f . France
was from time immemorial in poflTeflion of this branch, which was
centered in three villages in the department of the Aude, in the S. W. of
ancient Languedoc.

• Befides excellent free-done, the environs of Paris contain abundance of
pypfum. Alum is found in confiderable quantities at Aveyron. The
Pyrenees in particular fupply beautiful marbles.

- Mineral waters,] The chief mineral waters of France are thofe of
Barrege, Bagneres, Vichi, and Plorobieres. The warm baths of Barrege,
ill particular, at the foot of the Pyrenees, have been long celebrated, and
there the Queen of Navarre lays the fcene of her tales. The baths of
Bagneres are in the fame neighbourhood.

Natlhal cuRiosiTiiis.] Among the natural curiofities of France,
the moft worthy of notice is the plain of La Crau, which lies in Pro.
vence, rot far from the mouth of the Rhone. This is the moft Angular
llony defert thnt is to be found in France, or perhaps in Europe J. The
diameter is abont five leagues, and the contents from 20 to 25 fquare
leagues, or about 150,000 Enghfh acres. It is entirely compofed of I
(hingle, or round gravel, fome of the ftoneu as large as the head of a
man, and the (hingle of the fea ihorc is not more barren of foil. Beneath
is a fmall^ mixture of l6am with fragments of ftone. In the winter !
there are Scattered piles of grafa, which, from the vaft extent of the |
fpace, pafture a conliderable multitude of fheep. In general, however,
France, being moftly a plain country, does not prefent much fingularity j
of feature ; and the fcenes of the Cevennes and Pyrenees have been
little explored by travellers, who, paffing to the chief cities, generally
fee only the moft unintereiling parts of the country.
' Frekch ksles.] The ifles around France are fo imall and unimportant,
that they would fcarcely be defervirig of notice, were it not for events
that have taken place during the late war. The ifle of Corfica muft
however be excepted. From the dominion of Carthage, this ifle paifed
under that of Rome,andwas for fometime fubje£tto the Saracens of Africa.
In the time of the (;rufadeB it was afligned to the republic of Pifa, and
was afterwardu conquered by the Genoefe. In 1736 the malcontents
rtjefted the Genoefe yoke, and chofe a German adventurer for their |
king. After many ineifeAual ilruggles Corfica was ceded to the French.
The Romans certainly (lid not biglily efteem this ifland^ when theyj

t'jifOU. JiU ^ «MMJV*'lfe«^-,»iJ '.•fjj itrntii*'

-W'-

;iy«]nit\

?»*ts- •

• ThW. Ann. vii, p.
X Young, i. a7«.

I).:ii

17 If t Joam. desMines, .4nn. ill. N0.4. |i. 41.

fficik'' it as a ]
geographer, «* th
ritory nill of mot
lies, nevertheldfs,

The ifles called

naked appearance,

however, contain 1

Hfimer's ifle of C

Of.' the weftern

niiies long by two

ty Richard I. ki

ronllituted a porti

noted for an exped

jsafmall and inflg

remarkable in the \

t«oin breadth,

it is about nine mi

nhich, with the fo

UHiant, or Oueflai

towards the weft, 1

nine in circumferen

Several other fmall

cou, about feven ir

flnce in our poffefli

Norman faint, Mai

v.;

i:-4. v/;

Kmfs. — Extent. — i
Religion. — Govei
Importance and
ratiire. — Educatic
land Navigation.-
—Face of the

—Forejs Bota

tural Curiofities.

THOSE provir
to the houfe
dominions ; and as
united to France, it
in the defcription,
that country.

Namks.] The _
nameofBelgic Gau
theTungri, the N
Franks, this countr

* I* Croix, i. i%^.

FRANCE.

135

feleilf' it as a place of exile ; and, according to a modern French
rreo^rapher, " the air of Curfica is thick and unwholefonie, the ter-
ritory fuil of mountains, of little fertifity, and ill cultivated : the val-
liest nevertheloTs, produce corn, and the hills wine, fruits, and aU

The ifles called Hyeres, near Toulon, have at prefent a barren and
naked appearance, and only prefent fome melunchuly pines f. They,
lioivever, contain fume botanic riches, and may claim the fame of being
Homer's ifle of Calypfo.

0<: the wellern coall firft occurs the ifle of Oleron, about fourteen
ntiies long by two broad, celebrated for a code of marit ime laws iffued
bv Richard I. king of England, of whofe French territory this ifle
conftituted a portion. To the N. is the ifle of Re, oppolite Rochelle,
noted for an expedition of the Englifli in the feventeenth century. Yeu
jsafmall and inflgnificant ifle, followed by Noirmoutier, which became
remarkable in the war of *La Vendee, being :ibout eight miles long and
ttto in breadth. BelUfle has been repeatedly attacked by the Englift^ :
it is about nine miles long and three broid, furrounded by fteep rocks,
which, with the fortiflcatlons, render the conquelt difhcult. The ifle of
Uihant, or Oueflant, is remarkable as the furtheil headland of France,
towards the weft, being about twelve miles from the continent, and about
nine in circumference, with feveral hamlets, and about 600 inhabitants.
Several other fmall' ifles may be pafled in iilence, but thofe of St. Mar-
cou, about feven miles S. E. of La Hogue, maybe mentioned as being
once in our poffefllon : they received their name, it is believed, from a
I^orman faint, Marcoul^ abbot of Nanto^ille, who died in 558. ^

(SE

NETHERLANDS,

■h^

•:rf

^mts, — Extent, — Original Population. — Hiftortcal Epochs.-^^ntiqmties.
Religion. — Government. — Laiuf. — Population. — Revenue. — Political
Importance and Relations. — Manners and Citjloms. — Language. — Lite-
rature. — Education. — Unlverfitics. — Cities and Towns. — Edijices.'— In-
land Navigation. — Manufactures and Commtrce. — Climate and Seafons.
— Face of the Country.- — Soil and \/f^riculture. — Rnr rs. — Mountains.
—Forefis. — Botany. -^Zoology. — Mineralogy. — Mlnertfl fVaters. — Na-
tural Curlofitles.

ijIS't?

tririfi'im •«#■*

THOSE provinces of the Netherlands which yrere formerly fubjeft
to the houfe of Auftria, have been recently annexed to the French
dominions ; and as this fertile territory may probably continue to be
nnited to France, it becomes neceflary to ufe as much brevity as pofllble
in the defcription, that it may not be difproportionate to the account of
that country.

Names.] The Netherlands in general were anciently known by the
name of Belgic Gaul, the chief inhabitants of this part being the Mcnapii,
the Tungri, the Nervii^ and the Morini. After the irruption of the
franks, this cpup^ry formed part of N^u^^^i o>^>iic o^w kingdom,^ (the

•r^

• U Croix, i. ja^. For the Ifle of Eltia, fee Italy.

K4 .

t Young's France, I. \0i.
ancient

V^. -rv;

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

^*5^%

1.0

I.I

^ ^ 12.2
«* — mi 2.0

ys 1 u^ |i.6

^/'

H>otogra[diic

Sciences

CorporatiGn

'^^ > '* ^

VV'

as WHT MAM STRUT

WHITIR.N.Y. I4SM

(7l*)l7a-4»03

ii6

NETHERLANDS.

century arofe the

powerful houfe of the earls of Flanders ; and the counts of Hainaut
commence about the fame epoch. The dtikes of Lowet Lorrain and
Brabant are little known tiU the end of the tenth century. Thefe and
other great inheritances gradually fell under the power of the dukes of
Burgundy) who in the fifteenth century enjoyed dominions worthy of
^e regal title. With the h'eirefs of Burgundy the Netherlands paffed
by marriage to the houfe of Auftria.

Extent.] The length of the Auftrian Netheiknds, computed from the
eaftem limit of Luxembourg to Oftend on the ocean, may be about 1 80
Britiih miles ; and about 110 in lireadth, from the northern boundary of
Auibian Brabant to the mod fouthem limit of Hainaut. The extent is
computed at.7,52ofquare miles, with a population of 1,900,000.

Original population.] The original population was Celtic, but was
fapplanted by the Belgse, a German colony, afterwards vanquifliedby the
Franks, a kindred nation. The progreffiTe geography may be traced with
great certainty firom the time of Julius Caefar through the later Roman
writen, and the Franqic hiftorians of the middle ages.

Historical EPOCHS.] The chief hiftorical epochs are, i. ThecTenti
while the Romans held Gaul.

2. Under the Merovingian race of French kings.
■ 3. The ancient earls of Flanden and Hainaut, ai.d other potentates
wma fluired thefe territories.

4. The dukes of Burgundy. Durinjg thefe two epochs the NetherUnds
became the g^reat mart of commerce m the well of Europe, and were
dilUngmihed by opulence and the arts.

5. The Auftrian domination, accompanied with repeated unfuccefsful
ftruffglo for freedom. The feven United Provinces having, however,
cftabuOied their liberty, the commerce and profperity of the fouthem
regions paifed quickly to their northern neighbours.

6. Tneir conqueft by the French, and annexation to the territory of
the republic.

Amtiqvitiis.^ The remains of Roman art are little memorable, an4
the chief antiquities confift in |prand ecclefiaftical and civil monuments of
the middle ages, when thefe regions concentrated a great part of the wealth
of Europe, and abounded in excellent artifts of all defcriptioni.

Religion, &c.] The religion of the Netherlands is the Roman Ca.
thoUc I and till the French revolution, the inhabitants were noted for
bigotry, a great part of the wealth being in the hands of ecdefiaftici.
The metropolitan fee was the archbifhopric of Meclilin, or Mdinei. The
biflioprics were thofeof Bruves, Antwerp, Ghent, &c., in number niiK-
or ten. The goventnicnt and laws had lome features of freedom ; but
the decline of commerce having lefTene^ the confequence of the cities and
bwrgeflcftf tlds liberty became the monopoly of the noblei and clergy,
who often oppofed the will of the fovereign, when exerted in the moft
beneficial manne( for the good of the conwiunity. The Jtfeufi Entrii was
the magna cbarta of the Netherlands, n con^tutioMl bond of natioMl
ynvili^fei.

Population* &c.] The popniatton bping computed «( 1,900,000, and
the fquarc extent at 7»5ao rnues. there will be $$% inhabitant! to the fquan
vIITi whfle France yields only 174. Under the Auftriw poweri Uie

• P'ABvUfei tmMkmk en Swope, 701 Ik,

rcveaiw

NETHERLANDS.

137

^ne of the Netherlands fcarcely defrayed the expences of govemmenty
indthe various extortions of the French rulers cannot afford fufficient
jita to compute an equitable and lading revenue. The political import-
20ce and relations of thefe provinces are now immerged in thofe of tiie
french republic.

Mannebs AMD CUSTOMS.]] The manners and cuftoms of the Nether«
lindt partake of thofe of their neighbours, the Dutch and French* the
pUegm of the one being tempered by the vivacity of the other. The
loirer clafles were fond of religious pageantry, and much addiAed to the
fuperftitious obfervances of the Cathohc fyilem. The Flemi(h laaguage
partakes of the German and of the Dutch.

Literature. 3 Thefe provinces boaft of early literature, after their
converfion to Chriftianity in the feventh century, in various chronicles and
lives of faints ; but in modem times they have rarely produced writers of
gteat talents. The native language remains uncultivatedy and the chief
authors have ufed the Latin or the French. FrqiiTart was bom at Valen*
citnnes, in French Flanders ; Philip de Comines, at the town fo called^
ibout eight miles to the N. of Lifle, and lituated in the fame divifion.
Lipfius, a man of confiderable erudition, was bom near Bmfiels. 'But in

Sneral the fouthera Netherlands are more eminent in artifts ; and the
nited Provinces in literary charaAers.

Educatiok.3 The education was negle£^ed as in moft Catholic? coun<
tries, where the Jefuits in vain attempted to bring it to a level with that
of the Proteftant dates. The univerfities, which in no country are of
equal importance with the fchools, were, however, numerous, confidering
the cxtentof the country. Exclufive of Touraay (Dornick), which has
been long fubjefl' to the French, there were otlkers at Douay and St.
Omer, much frequented by the Englifh Catholics ; and one of ftill greater
celebrity at Louvain, founded in 142 c.

Cities a\id Towns.] The three chief cities ia what were called the
Auilrian NetherkndSf are BiHiiTels, Ghent, and Antwerp. The capital
city of Bruflels ItiU contains about 80,000 inhabitants, and ia beautified
by a noble fquarey one fide of which is occupied with a vaft guildhall ; and
by numerous churches and fountains. It is fituated on the (mail river Sen»
or Senne, which runs into the Dyle and the Beheld. It is known as early
ai the tenth century, and in the fourteenth was furrounded with walls.
The imperial palace, the wonted refidcnce of the governor of the Nether*
lands, difplays confiderable tafte and magnificence.

Ghent contains about 60(000 fouls, and the circumference of the walla
it computed at 15 miles, as it is built on a number of little iilands formed
by four rivers and manv canals, and includes gardens, and even fields*
Some of the Ibreets are urge and well paved, but only a few churches
BOW deferve attention.

The inhabitants of Antwerp are computed at 50,000, the fad remains
of great population and profperity. This city, being placed upon the noble
eftuary of the Schcld, and formerly tlie chief mart of Flemim commerce,
poflenes a ftrong citadel, erected by the fanruinary duke of Alva. The
harbour is exceUent, and the fuppoied impediments found to be fiibulousk
The ftrcets, koufes, ind churches, are woethv of the ancient fame of the
city. The exchange is faid to have afforded the pattern for that of
London. The churches are decorated with many paintings by Rubenii
Vandyke, and other Flemifli nmfters. In ic68 the trade » fuppofed to
have been at its grcateft height | and the number of inhabitants was com-
puted at soo,ooo. It ftill contains tf number of the rich defcendaiits of
f he ancient mcrchanti ) with fome commcrcC| and a few flouriftiing mimi-

»38

NETHERLANDS.

fa6lures, particularly of lace and linen. Of the other principal towns
Mons is computed at 25,000 inlubitants ; Bruges, and Namur, each at
20»ooo; Luxembourg at 12,000; Roermondat 10,000; Limbour?af
8,000. ^

Sea-ports.] The fea>coa(l of Flanders, the maritime province, confift.
chiefly of fandy hills and downs, and has few inlets, as molt of the rivers
flow into the Scheld. There are, however, two ports which deferve par.
ticular notice. The Sluys *, called by the French L'Eclus, derives its
name from the fluices, by which the circumjacent country may be laid
under water. Guicciardini fays, that the haven of Sluys was capable of
containing 500 fliips. The port and population now yield greatly to thofe
of Oftend. This latter haven has been confiderably frequented fmce the
Scheld was abandoned. The town is IHU computed to contain 14,000
fouls, though it fuffered greatly by the famous fiege which terminated in
1604, when it was gallantly defended by Sir Francis Vcre, at the head of
a few Engli(h troops. Many Englifh families were fettled here before
Ollend feU a prey to the Firench.

Edifices.] In general it may be obferved that, even at the prefent
day, every traveller is impreffed with furpiize, not only at the number,
but the great extent of the Flemiih cities, towns, and even villages ; in
which ccfpeA the Netherlands exceed every country in Europe, only
excepting the United Provinces. The chief edifices are the cathedrals,
churches, and monalleries ; though a few caftles, belonging to ancient
families, or rich merchants, ufed to attradl fome notice ; the talte of the
latter buildings being faithfully copied in the Flemiih landfcapes, and more
remarkable for little prettinefs, peaked roofs, fandatic ornaments, the
muddy moat, and draw«bridge, than for grandeur of deilgn, or amenity
of iituation.

Inland navigation.] Idle would be the attempt even to enumerate
the canals which interfe6l thefe provinces in all diredions. Some of them
date even from the tenth century, and the cwal from Bruffels to the Scluld
is of the Hxteenth. Other important canals extend from Ghent, Antwerp,
Ollend, and other cities and towns, efpecially in the weftem dillrids ; but,
under the Auftrian domination, thefe important means uf intercourfe were
ihamefully neglc£lcd.

MANurACTURES AND COMMERCE.] The manufactures and commerce
of the Netherlands, for a long period fuperior to any in the well of £u.
rope, have fuffered a radical and total decline, owing partly to the other
powers entering into competition, and partly to the eilablifliment of free*
dom in the United Provinces, whence Amtterdam arofe upon the ruins
of Antwerp. What little commerce remains is chiefly inland to Ger.
many, the external employing very few native veflels. The Eaft India
Company eftabliflied at Oftcnd was fupprefied by the jealoufy of England
and other powers ; a*nd the chief commerce was afterwards carried on by
the Englifh eftabhfhed in that city. The prefent trade is chiefly with
America. Yet of the uianufadlure s a few fragments reman : Cambray,
long fubjeA to the French, is Hill renowned for the cambrics which
thence derived their name ; as Toumay, or Dornick, was anciently famous
for the (ineft linens. At Bruges there are ftill fome manufaCiurea of
broad fays, baize, and other woollens ; confiderable fabrics of broad cloth,
druggets, Ihalloons, and ilockings, were condudted at St. Omers, chiefly

* Sluyi belonged to tk« UnitMi Prov'nces, but ii here mentioned, eonfiderin;; the
Neihrrlands to tlie Rliine lu sa af ^)enil«g'? of Fruice. Nieuport, • Ihtlo fiOiMig town,
fcwcely del'ervea notiLC.

with

NETHERLANDS.

'39

^ji wool fmuggled from England. But the chief manufaftures are of
^ne linen and laces, at Mechlin, Bruii'els, Ghent, Antwerp, Louvain,
ffiijcb ftill enrich the country around, and induce the fanners to cultivate
flaXf even on the poorell foils. The Netherlands produce, for home

ggfumption, abundance of corn and vegetables ; and the coal mines would
l^ome important, if the opera;.ion8 were fkilfuUy condud:ed. There
isbefides abundance of turf for fuel, with iron, porcelain clay, and other
commoditicB.

Climate AND SEASONS, &C.3 The climate of the Netherlands confide-
fgbly trefembles that of the fouth of England, and is more remarkable for
inoitturethan for warmth ; yet the duchy of Luxembourg produces fome
wine, which probably has the aufterity of the Rhenifh, without its fpirit.
X he face of the country is in general level, and the femblance of hills caa
fcarcely be difcovered, except towards the eall, where a few elevations
relieve the eye from the general flatnefs of the other regions. The foil is
in general rich fandy loam, fometimes interfperfed with Helds of clay, but
more often with large fpaces of fand. Such has been, even in diftant ageSv
the ftate of agriculture, that the Netherlands werelong eftecmed the very
garden of Europe, a praife which tliey ftill (hare with Lombardy ana
England. No iironger proof can be adduced of the advantages which
commerce confers on agriculture, than this country, tvhich evinces that
the latter advantage chiefly arifes from commercial opulence employed in
its moll ufeful direAion. Accurate obfervers repeatedly praife the ftatc
of agriculture in the Netherlands, and point out many advantages which
it maintains over that of England. The repeated crops of excellent clover,
the coif, the turnips, the clean crops of flax, barley, and oats, defervedly
attraft their attention. The agriculture has been celebrated for thefe 600
years, ever fince their commerce and manufaAures became eminent ; and
they ilill poflefs the eflentials of good hufbandry, in the deftrudtion of
weeds, and perpetual crops. In pafling through Flanders, in 1805,
the author 01 this work was delighted with the perfcd^ion of the agri>.
culture.

R1VEBS.3 The Netherlands are watered by fo many rivers and canals,
that it will be fufficient to mention only a (ivf of the chief Rreams. The
Rhine belongs to Germany, palfing at a confiderable diltance to the W.
of the frontier ; and but a fmall extent of the Meufe,or Maes, pervades
the county of Namur, in thefe Netherlands. The chief river is the
Scheld, which receives two other fl reams, the Lys and the Scalpe, the
latter near Mortagne, the former near Ghent. All thefe rivers arife
ifl tht county of Artois, from no ccnfiderable elevation ; and the whole
courfe of the Scheld, or Trench Efcaut, cannot be comparatively ef-
timatcd at above 120 miles *. The Dyle rifes not far to the N. W. of
Namur, and joins the Scheld above Niel, after receiving from the E>
the Dermer, the Nette or Nethe, from the N. and the Senne from
the S. Moil of the other rivers yield in importance to the canals, and
it would indeed be difficult in many initanires to determine whether their
courle be the work of nature or art. There is no lake worthy of com«
memoration.

Mountains, kc."} Though there be little ridges of hills in the coun-
ties of Namur and Luxembourg, the traveller muft proceed to thedilUnt
banks of the Rhine before he meets with any elevation that can deferv^

•m

'■r.'j ^,

with

* Thr Schpld propfrly rifes itbout eight miles N. of St. Qiiintin, in the modem depert-
p>«at ul die Aii'iie. ,

tho

»4»

NETHERLANDS.

the name even of a fmall mountain. There are, howev«r( feveral woodi
even in the centre of Flanders ; and iii Brabant is the foreft of Soiinit
liirther to the E.and S. are immenfc forefts, which almoft penrade Hamaut
and Luxembourg, from Valenciennes to Treves, forming ftrikkig remsini
of the ancient foreft of Ardennes.

B0TASIY.3 The vegetable produ£ltons of the Catholic Netherlands dif.-
hr in no reipt€t from thofe' of Holland, and almoft aU the plants that are
natiiws of this country mar be met with in the faiidy and marihy diftrids
of the fouth-eaft coaft of England. A few fpecies, indeed, wUch are rare
with us, are of frequent occurrence in the Netherlands, particularly the
marih ragwort, in (hallow ditches; field eryngo, in great plenty by the fide
of the roads ; and the elegant fringed water lily, adorning the canals, and
other deep flow ftreams.

The zoology of the Netherlands affords no remarkable materiak. The
breed of hones and cattle is efteemed for fize.

MiNKRALOGY.] So plain a country cannot be fuppofed to fupply
many minerals : yet coaJ, perhaps the moft precious of them all, is found * j
in feveral diftriAs, and the ingenuity of the French has been exerted in
ain improvement of the operations. In the county of Namur are aUb
found lead and copper ; and Hainaut affords iron and flate. From iti
iron works Luxembourg derives its chief wealth ; and the foreft of
Ardennes is ftill renowned for the metal of war. MarUe and dabafter
are alfo found in the oafteni diftrifts.

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

CHAPTER L

HISTORICAL OIOORAPHY.

Efetentm^-^Atundaria. --^ Names. Original Population. '•"-Prtgnjive

Gee^rafif anJpre/aU £otmdanei»'^Proviiuet»"^Hi/icrical Epochi mi
jiatiqmtitit

Fvrawr 1 nPI^-'^ Ruflian empire is, perhaps, the moft eztenfive that
CXTS9T.J j^ ^^^ exifted; the length being about piaoo Engliih
milet, and the breadth a^oo *.

BouNDAMBs.] Bv the final i>artition of Poland, European Ruflia
now extends from wi river Dniefter to the Uralian mountains, that
grand chain which naturally divides Europe from Afia, a lenRth of
about ifloo miles i and in br^dth above looo Englifli roilct. Toe ex.
tent ia computed at about 1,200,000 fqnare miles.

Kambs.] Even the European part of the Ruflian empire embracet
many ancient kingdoms and ftates ; but the chief name, that of Ruffii,

• Tooke'i View of die Ruff. Enip. 3 voU. 8vo. i. p. 0*

OfitU

The

fl&U

Aallonl

wards th

pire, the

ninth

imported

In the fu

eolighteiu

unaccouni

an improj:

finally exi

Origin

part of th

form an e

Goths on

wefti muft

Europe:

form the

of the anc

itrength.

?H0OREi

geography

revolutions.

unknown to

in the Byza

phyrogenitu

the Ruiliani

confined on i

ofPruflia. 1

Euxinefea. |

wards famout

memorable fc

Theviftori

Kiovtr about t

ruined by th<

empire. The

little embarraj

which remain

when Ruflia «

fent extent ant

was Ivan IV.,

the Tatar kir

His fucceflbr^

which has beei

known till the

tended her lint

' Sample third oj

fertile of men i

. Divisions.]

w regard to its ]

the empire int

Ihenne II. beg

[w provincial <

lowing ynr thi

♦^■"WtJ

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

(hall only be here confidercd. Amidft the grand conflux of natlcnt to-
wards the weft, which attended the decline and fall of the Roman Em-
pire, the Slavonic tribe of Roffi efcaped the obfervation of hiftory till the
ninth century ; and it . uncertain whether the term were natiTC, or
imported by the Scandinavian chiefs who founded the Ruffian monarchy*.
In the fixteenth century, when Ruffia fifft attraaed the obfervation of
enlightened Europe, we find that the new appellation of Mv/covia had
unaccountably pafled among foreigners from the capital to the kingdom*
an injpropriety which long maintained its ground, and has not even yet
finally expired.

Original populatiok.] The grand population of the European
part of the Rulfian empire is well known to be Sbvonic. The Slavont
form an extenfive original race of mankind, radically diftind from the
Goths on the one hand> who, as pofleffing the countries more to the
weft, mull have preceded the Slavons in their paffage from Afia into
Europe : and equally diftinguifliable in language, perfon, and manners,
form the Tatars, and other nations on the eaft. They are the Sarma^ae
of the ancients, and were eveir remarkable for perfonal elegance and
llrength. re.

Phooressive geoghaphy.] To enter much into the progreffive
geography of the Ruffian empire, would be to write a hiftory of it*
revoluuons. Till the fixteenth century this empire continued ahnoft
unknown to the reft of Europe, and its geography muft be ^intly traced
in the Byzantine annals, particularly in the work of Conftantme Por-
phyrogenitus on the adminiftnttion ot the empire. Even at that period
the Ruffians held the fpacious province around Mofcow ; and though
confined on the ?aft, extended th&ir power to the Baltic, and the vicinity
of Pruffia. Towards the S. the river Boryfthenes conduded them to the
Euxine fea* The capitals were Novgorod and Kiow ; the former after-
wards famous for its alliance with the Hanfeatic league ; the latter ftill
memorable for its catacombs.

Theriaories of the Tatars conftrained the Ruffian princes to abandon
Kiow about the middle of ti»v twelfth century, and that city having been
rumed by the Tatars in the thirteenth, Mofcow became the leat of
cmoire. The geomphy of Ruffia, in the middle ages, becomes not a
httle embarraffed from its repeated fub^vifion into fmall monarchies,
which remained in a ftate of vaffiilage to the Tatars till the year 1462,
when Ruffia emerged from thiseclipfe, and gradually acquired its pre-
fent extent and confequence. The great founder of the Ruffian power

V* !i*" ^Yv ^**® '**S"«^ ^"» ^ y*" '534 to 1584, and fubdued
the Tatar kingdom of Aftracan, and fome provinces on the N.W.
H» fucceffor, Feodor I., turned his arms towards Siberia, a country
which has been, however, moft flowly inveftigated, and indeed forcely
T? }^^ if^.Y^ »730- In modern times, Ruffia baa gradually ex-
tended her limits at the expence of the Turks ; and the addition of an
^amp e third of Poland has afforded her a fource ftill more ftable, and
fertile of men and power.

Di visipHs.] No country in Europe has undergone fo many alterations
in regard to its poUtico-geognphical dirifion as Ruffia. Peter I. divided
the empire into eight governments. In the year 1763, when Ca-
therine II. began a great reformation in the colleges of the empire and
the provmcial chanceries, they had increafed to aghteen. In the foU
lowing year this number was increa(ed by two; and in 1773, ^7^

.V.V"

• Gibbo^ X, aifli.

.,.(•

firlt

»4»

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

firft diviflon of Poland, two more were added. The empire confided of
thefe twenty*two governtnents, when fladtholderniipa or viceroyattiei
were introduced in 1776. Before the eftablifliment of them was fully
eompletedf Ruflla was enlarged by the acceflion of the Crimea. Of
thefe twenty -three provinces, forty-two ftadtholderfhips Were formed ; and
this divifion exifted from 1786,10 1794. In the years 1795 and 1706
their number, by new conquefts on the Dneitter and in Poland, and by
the fubje6^ion of Courland, was increafed to fifty. The ellabliihtnent
of thefe eight new governments changed the political geography in the
whole of the fouthern, and in part of the wedern didrids of Ruflla.
But fcarcely had thefe extenfive alterations been made, when, in the
year 1796, the whole of the political divifion hitherto eftablifhed wat
changed, and the fifty governments reduced to forty*one. Other altera,
tions were afterwards made ; but on the accefTion of the prefcnt em-
peror Alexander I. he thought proper to revive moil of thofe govern*
ments which had been aboliftied under the reign of his predeceiTor. An
ukafe for this purpofe appeared in the month of September 1801, in
confequence of which the forty-one exiiling governments were increafed
by five, which had all before exifted; afterwards three were added,
which with Grufia made the number again fifty. The following is an
enumeration of the governments as they itood in 1803.

Moilcva. 2. St. Peterfburg. 3. Novogorod. 4. Olonetz.

5. Archangel. 6. Pikove
JO. Kaluga. 11. Jaroflaf.
logda. ' 15. Nifneygomd.
19. Tobolik. 20. Tomflc.

7. Smolenfk.
12. Koilroma.
16. Wiutka.
Irkutflc.

Tula. 9. Twer.

Vludimir 14. Vo.

1 8. Perm.

21.

17. Kafan.

22. Orenburg.

23. Sim.

Caucafus.

Orel.

birfk. 24. Penza. 25. Saratof. 26. Aftrakan. 27.

28. Voronilh. 29. Tambof. 30. Razan. 31. Kurflc.

33. Tho Slobodith Ukrain. 34. Ekaterinaflaf. 35. Tauria.

3^, Cherfon (Nikolayef.) 37. Poltowa. 38. Tfchernigof. 39. Kief.

40. Podolia. 41. Volhynia. 43. Grodno. 43. Vilna. 44. Vitebflc,

4c. Mogilef. 46. Minm. 47. Courlaiid. 48. Livonia. 49. Eftho.

ma. 50. Finland. 51. Grufia*.

Historical epochs.] The following appear to be the chief hiftorical
epochs of this mighty empire :

1 . The foundation of the kingdom by Ruric, a Scandinavian chief,
A. D. 862. His defcendants held the fceptre above 700 years.

2. The naval expeditions of the Ruifians againii Conftantinople, in
the tenth century.

3. In the fame century the baptifm of Olga the queen, and the fub-
fequeot converfion of the Ruifians to Chriftianity.

4. The invafion of the Tatars under Batu Khan in 1236, and the fub.
fequent vaifalageof Ruifia.

5. The aboution of the power of the Tatars by Ivan III. who died
in 1505.

6. The reign of Ivan IV. fumamed Bafilowitz, known to weftem
hiftorians by the ftyle of the tyrant John Bafilides.

7. The death of the Czar Feodor in 1508, with whom expired the
long progeny of Ruric. Several impodors afterwards appeared, under
the name^f Demetrius, the murdered brother of this fovereign.

8. The acceifion of the dynaily of Romanow, i6i3»"in the perfonof
Michael Feodorowitz, fprung in the female line from Ivan IV, He was
followed by his fou Alexis, father of Peter the Great.

* Raftiiad enter Akxander d«m Erften, bjH.Storik, I'eteriburgh, 1804.
'■ i.> ^ 6 y. The

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

?4S

g. The reign of Peter I. has been juftly confidered as a moft im*
portant epoch in Ruffian hiftory ; but on reading tlie annals of the pre-
ceding reigns from that of Ivan IV. it will be perceived that a part of
onr admiration for Peter arifes from our inattention to his predeceflbrs
and that the light which he diffufed was far from, being fo fudden and
(rrand as is commonly imaijined.

10. The late reign of Catherine II. deferves to be commemorated
tinong the moil brilliant epochs in the Ruflian annals ; nor muft her
perfonal crimes exclude her from the lift of great and able fovereigns.

Antiquities.] Of ancient monuments, Ruflia cannot be fuppofed to
afford great variety. Sometimes the tombs of their pagan anceftors are
difcovered, containing weapons and ornaments. The catacombs at
Kiow were perhaps formed in the Pagan period, though they be now
replete with marks of Chrittianity. They are labyrinths of confiderable
extent, dug, as would appear, through a mafs of hardened clay, but they
do not feem to contain the bodies of the monarchs *.

Tiie converflon of the Rufllans muft of courfe have been followed
by the erei^ion of many churches ; biit as Byzantine, or Italian
architedls were employed, thofe edifices have but few peculiarities. Per-
haps no country of confiderablc extent can aiford fewer monuments of
ancient art than Ruflia. . :, „, _ „ . ,...,,.,.

Uoi^r

CHAPTER II.

POLITICAL GEOGIIAPHY.

'ilO

Religion. ~-Eccle/!q/lical Geography. — Government. — Laws.—'Pofnilation.'^

Colonies.-— ^rmy.—— Navy. Revenues. '■—Political Importance a$uf

Relatione.

J, -j '' I "HE religion of Ruflia is that of the Greek church,

' '-^ V X of which, fince the fall of the Byzantine empire,
this (late may be confidered as the chief fource and power. .

Ecclesiastical oeooraphy.] The patriarch of the Ruflian church
had ufurped extraordinary powers, to the great injury of the Imperial
prerogative ; but the fpint of Peter I. broke thefc ignominious bonds,
and the patriarchs have fince become complaifant inftruments of the
court. The clergy are very numerous, and have feveral privileges, pat-
ticulafly exemption from taxes. They have been computed at 67,000,
fccular and regular. The Greek religion permits the marriage of the
fecular clergy. The cathedrals and parifli churches in the empire are
computed at 18,350; the monaftenes 31480; nunneries 74; monks
fuppofed to be 71300 ; nuns 3000. The monafteries have not been fuch
favourite reforts fince Peter I. and Catherine II. opened the fources of
lindultry. The bifhoprics amount to about 30.

Government.] The government of Ruflia appears to have been
always defpotic, there being no legiflalive power diftind from that of the
fovereign. What is called the fenate is only the fupreme court of judi-
cature. The whole frame of the government maybe pronounced to
be military ; and nobility itfelf is only virtually eftimated by rank in the

■army.

:>tr ^(^*4'^^'f iWf^-f •

* flerbin. CiTptie KijovieafeB.

*,*«»*-:.••

»4

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

By an viuSc iflued by the prefent emperor Alexander in the month of
June 180I) the rank of Senator is declared the higheft in the kinedom.
As the guardian of the laws, the fenate watches over the general execu.
tion of tnem ; has a vigilant eye to the col1e6ting of the public duties •
provides means for relieving the neceflities of the people^ for maintaining
public peace and tranquillity, and for preventing all proceedings contrail
to law m all the inferior departments. It has the reviflon of all affairs
both civil and criminal. From the decifions of the fenate there is no appeal,

Torture was entirely aboliihed in 1801 .

Laws.] Immediately on the fall of the Roman empire, we find the
Gothic tnbes feduloufly coUeding and publifhing their peculiar codes of
laws, but it would be difficult to difcover any Slavonic code till the fix-
teenth century, when they emanated, not from the national council, but
from the arbitrary will of the monarch. The firft Rufltan code dates from
the reign of Ivan IV. and the late emprefs had the merit of drawing up
a new code with her own hands.

Population.] The population of Ruffia is fo diflFufe, and fpread
over fo wide an extent of territory, that very oppofite opinions have beeR
entertained conceniing it. By mo ft writers it was only eftimated 9s equal
to tlut of France, or. about 2C,00O|0oo; and it was at the fame time
fuppofed that the recent acquiutions in Poland might add 5,000,000 to
the amount: but in 1783, more exaA eftimates were prepared; and in
the 41 vice-royalties, then compofing the enipire, the ftate of male inha*
bitants * was as follows :

— — 107^.08

Merchants,

Burghers,

Odnodvortzi, and free countrymen,

Exempt from taxes, — —

Crown boors, — —

Private boors, — mm

»93»79.5

773»65o
310,830

4,664,603

6,678,239

12,838^529

The number of females being fuppofed to equal that of the males, a
population would arife of 25,677,000. The moft important accelfion to
the Ruffian population arifes from the partitions of Poland, which, with
fmall acquifitions from the Porte, have been thus ftated f }

At the firft partition of Poland in 1773
From the Porte in the years 1774 and 1783
From the Porte in the year 1 791 — ^

At the fecond partition of Poland 1793
By the fubjedtion of Courland >—

At the third partition of Poland 1 795

1,226,966

171,610

42,708

3»74S.663
387,922

1,407,402
6,982,271

The following account, according to Mr. Tooke, prcfents the whole
population of the empire in 1799 :

By the reviflon of 1783 there were in the governments, 1
computing the female lex as equal to the male of regillered > 35167 71O00 1
perfons * J

* Evtb male UbM «t ioclttdcd In Um c?piUtion tax, vndcr the denotninstioB of diiif |
fMnu.
tloQkt,l.9ai. ^ ,

Th«

'Someoftheiiobil

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

The amount of Kozacks of the Don and the Euxine, )
according to the moft authentic private accounts at leaft f

For the numbered tribes and claiTes, at the time of the*!
fourth revilion, we cannot without the higheft improba* >
bility allow lefs than J

Confequently the Ruffian empire, in the year 1783,1
might have inhabitants amounting altogether to J

According to the refults deduced from experiments'
and obfervations on the fruitfulnefs and mortality in
RulTia, this mafs muft, of itfelf, have increafed annually
Qiore than half a million. If, i^ order to keep as
far as poiTible from all exaggeration, we dedu6l the
half ot this furplus of births, to allow for the dimi-
Dutiun it may have fuffered by an extraordinary
mortality, as by war; there remains by every year
an increafeof 250,000 new citizens, which, exclufively
of :ill afcending proportion, in 12 years makes a fum
. total of ^ ^

The new ac4uiiition8 fince the year 1783, or the prc-'j
fent nine vice-royalties of Taurida, Minlk, Bratzlau, j
Vofncfenfk, Podolia, Volhynia, Courland, Vilna, and ^
Slanim, contain, according to a legitimated ftatement )
already mentioned, J

Confequently we may admit, by the moil moderate!
ellimatc, the population of the Ruffian empire at pre- >
fent to be J

220,000
1,500,000

•<.-^<v. ^. {
3,000,000

5»755>ooo
36,152,000

Of this population Mr. Tooke affigns only about three millions and a
half to Siberia, or Afiatic Ruffia, which contains the Hve governments
of Perm, Vfa, Kolhyvan, Tobolik, and Irkutfk ; bur Perm is itfelf
fitu.ited on the European fide of the Uralian mountains, fo that we
might, perhaps, allow even 33,000,000 for the population of European
RulTia. It is probable, however, that the Gemuui authors, penfioned in
Ruiria, have fuelled the accounts of the population, to flatter the fove-
reign.

Condition of the peasants.] The Ruffian peafants are the ferfs
or (laves of their mailers *. But in general each proprietor agrees to i«>
ceive from e]fich vaffal a certain fum annually, called obrok, and then he
may go where he pleafeH and labour fqr himfelf and his family. For
tliiti purpofe he is furnifhed with a pafs, and leaving his village he repairs
tufome town or city, even as far as Livonia or Eftnonia, where he workii
the whole fummer, as a carpenter, ditcher, &c. and ^ains as much as is
fufficient to fupport himfelf and family during the winter months, and
alfo to pay his obrok.

Thuie who remain at home employ themfelfes in agriculture and
other rural occupations. In winter they apply to weaving and other
branches of manufa6ture.

A proprietor never cares where his vaflals go, provided they are fur*
nilhed with a pafs and pay him the obrok or tax impofed upon them.
Th? Ruffians are too much attach^ to their country and religion to ever
think of emigrating } and the peafants, even when they are obliged by
bad treatment or other caufes to change thdr mailer or place of abode»

* Some of the iiobUitjr in Rufli* luve begun Utely to give GreedoB to ihmt iUves.

L choofa

H«

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

choofe rather to unite themfeWes to the Coflac« of the Don than to paf$
the boundaries of the empire. Defertimi even to other countries is verv
Uncommon among the foldiers.

Each bopr, according to his condition and expertnefs, muil pay to
his mafte*' five, ten, or more rubles annually. The crown peafants there,
fore, ^hopay only three rubles, confider tliemfelves as very fortunate.
Eftates properly arc! villages, called Derewni, and the property of a
nobleman is eftimated according to the fize of the village and the number
of men it contains. But very often one village belongs to feveral noble-
inen or proprietors ; and then it is faid fuch a pcrfon poiTefles 50, another
J CO, a third 150, &c. fouls, under which appellation males are always
imderllood. The value of flaves varies vrith that of provifions. In
J 747 Lerch purchafed two men at Mofco and tvro horfes for 60 rubles •
and this he conlidered as dear. At prefent (1797) a healthy ftrong man
78 worth 300, 400, and even more rubles ; a female from 100 to 150 and
soo. In the bank belonging to government for lending money, a flave
is taken in pawn for 40 rubles.

Befides the obrok, all boors, whether belonging to the crown or to
private perfuns, mtid pay alf« a poll-tax or head-money, which at p^.
ient (1797 ) in fome places amounts to a ruble for a man *.

Colonists.] It is well known that great encouragement has been
given to foreigners to fettle in Ruflia, ana that there are in that country
at prefent fome colonies pretty numerous. The following table will ex.
hibit a llatc of them as they were in 1803. ". v j . '. .-

Saratof.

Nsw Russu.

Colonifts in general
Evangelic Brethren, called'

the Brotherhood

repta
Menonifts
Culonifts of .Tofephflhal
of Yamburgi

, called')
of Sa- V

Swedifh
.' ' Dant/ickers

<i »' '4-' "'■ " Swabians

^fljfe^ '^ Bulgarians and Greeks

^LKSSiR Russia. Colonifts

MenonitU

VORONISH. -
IjIVONIA.

Sit. Petersburg. Srednerog«t(ki
rihori
Novn.S'aratof

• '.^ j:^Y '•i Yamburgi

. • Total

Mai.es.
19,800

869

»95

108

396

639

311
265

126

276

9»

33,629

Fe^iaws.

18,925

812

180

79
61

44
370
58S
103

>73

30'
100
117

J67

"»57)*

Hetice it appears that in 1803 there werp eftablifhed in different parti
of Ruflia 46,204 coIoniHs^of both fcxes. It appears alfo from a^ithen-
tic documents, that government had expended in fupporting the coloniiU

• RuMnnd'ii HuiiJcl landwirUifchaftUcke Kultw ural PipduAt von W. C. Fri«be. Pcterf-

fcurg, iJ wte. 1706, f*c. , . ! , - , .. ,_ -, ,

ment or tw

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

tlie fum of 6,00^,94.8 doUarS) of which at that time it had received back
only i,957»49o dollars.

It appears, farther, that m 180} the following number of colonifta
mre ellablilhed in Ruflia :

Malm.

Femaus.

Bulgarians . » •
£lbiug and Maurunburg Meno-)

nifts - • - 3
Germans -
Swifs - -

Swifs at Grodm* - -

Pruifians - . -

313

216

534

521

628

240 of both

529
fexcs

%'.

Colonies, &c.^ RuflTu bein? a (late new in maritime affairs, cannot
boall of any colonies, nor can tnis name be applied to a fmall eftablifli-
ment or two in the eaftern parts of Siberia. But on the Ruffian armies
I jrreat part of the fate of Europe and Afia muft depend ; and the fub-
jcft of courfe defervcs particular attention. Mr. Tboke eftimates the
whole amount of the Ruiuan troops at 600,000; of which 500,000 may
be cfteemed effeAive.

Navy.] The Ruflian navy confifts of feveral det ashed fleets, employed
in the remote feas on which the empire borders at different extremities.
The chief fleet is of courfe that of the Baltic, which confifts of about
thirty'fix fhips of the line. That in the Euxine, or Black Sea, at the
harbours of Sevaftopol and Kherfon, was computed at twelve fhipa of
the line, but not of a high rate, as the Euxine affurda no great depth
of water ; but therq are many frigates, gallies, chebecks, andgun-boats.
The fleet of gallics in the Baltic, in 1789, was eftimated at no.

Revenues. 1 The revenues of Ruflia are fuppofed to amount to about
co,oOo,ooo of rubles ; which, valuing the ruble at four fhiUings, will
be equal to io,ooo,oool. fterling. Tlie. national debt is fuppibfed to
amount to little er nothing.

Political importance, &c.] With all thefe advantages it is no
vonder that the political importance and relations of Ruffia are fo pre-
ponderant in Europe and Afta. In Europe her recent acquifitions nave
contributed to render her more and . more formidable. Poland lias been
devoured ; Denmark and Sweden may be confidercd aa fubje£t-allie« )
and if the whole force of Ruffia were bent againfl either Auftria or
I'ruffia, it is hardly to be conceived that the fhock could be withftood.
It would certainly be for the intereft of Europe that the Ruffian force
fhould be divertpo towards Afid, that by extending her dominions in
that quarter her (Irength may ftill be more difperfcd, when probably a
divifion of the empire would corameuce, to th( latling advantage of the
ether continental powers.

CHAP-

148

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

/'•'•■■ ' -■ ' CHAPTER III. ■-• J'^r^■'■•■;-■■•^''■'•■■

CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.

Manners and Cufionu.—-Language.-~-Literature. — Education. -^Unherfttie,
Cities and Towns. — E£fices»— Roads.— Inland Navigation. — Manufac
tures and Commerce.

Manners and customs

^A'

i the Ruffian Empire comprifes fo

many dilHndt races of men, the man-

ners of courfe mud be very various. But in the European divifiun, to
which this brief account is reftrided, the grand diftindlions are, a few
Laplanders oa the eaft of the mountains of Olonctz, which divide Ruflja
from Sweden ; the Fins of the White fea, and the Baltic ; the grand
Slavonic mafs in the centre, including the Cozacks of the fouth, who
are alfo Slavonsf and a few Tatars in Taurida, a beautiful region
which forms the fouth-eaft extremity of Europe. The Laplanders are
well known to be a diminutive race, who Would be amiable from the
paftoral fimplicity of their manners, were not their perfons ugly and
dirty. The Fins are alfo rather (hort in ftature, wiUi flat faces, deep
cheeks, dark erey eyes, a thin beard, tawny hair, and a fallow com*
plexion ; but Uic fouthem Fins, though they retain the national features,
are of fuperior appearance. There is a fmall diftridi in the northern
extremity of Scandinavia, idly called Finmark ; but the chief region
of the Fins is around the gulph of Finland, and thence on the fouth
of the White fea, where was, m ancient times, the celebrated region
of Parmia, by the Scandinavian writers called Biarmia, which j^tne
fuppofe extended from the White fea to the mountains of Ural. The
Fine ufed to excel in fiflun?, and the chace ; but they are now much
blended with the Slavons, and have generally adopted their manners and
cuftoms.

The Slavonic Ruffians, who conftitute the chief mafs and foul of this
empire, are generally middle fized and vigorous : the tallnefs and grace
of the ^olifli Slavons feem to arife from fuperior climate and foil. The
general phyfiognomy confiils of a fmall mouth, thin lips, white teeth,
unall eyes, a low forehead, the nofe commonly Tmall. and turned up-
wards, beard very buHiy, hair generally reddim *. The exprefllon of
the countenance is gnvity, with good nature, or fagacity ; the gait and
gedures lively and (nHpaflioned. The Ruffian is extremely patient of
hunger and thirll ; and his cure for all difeafes is the warm bath, or
rather vapour bath, in which the heat is above 100" of Fahrenheit's
thermometer. Dr. Guthrie has (hewn that the Ruffians retain many
Miaoners and ouilums derived from their Pagan anceftors, and has given
tome curiouH i'pccimens of their fongtt and raufic, which feem to be very
pleafing. He has alfo compared their dahces with thofe of the Greeks;
and finds in one of them a confiderable referablance of the wanton Ionic,
while another refombles the Pyrrhic. He obferves tliat the country

girls drefs in the/araphan, refombling the ancieiit^o/a, and bind up thiir
air with the ientoi a ribbon like the ancient vitta. They tinge their
cheeks with the juice of the echium Ittdicum. When a marriage i^ pro.
pofed, the loveri accompanied by a friend, goes to the houfe of the

* Tookcii. 2'<3.

bride,

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

,149

briJci an<l ^^X^ ^^ ^c** mother, ** (hew us your merchlindize, we have got
"inoaey)" an expreflion which is thought to refer to the ancient cuftom
of buying a wife. The Ruflians (hew great attention to their nurfes,
and aic ^ hofpitable that they offer to every ftranger the KiU& dafoU
or bread and fait, the fymbol of food, lodging, and protection. -At a
repalt) fome fait fifli, or ham, and a elafs of brandy, are prefented in
the firft place; and after dinner, cakes made with honey are ufually
ferved ; the common drink ;s kvafs, an acid, thin, malt liquor ; the
huufes are ornamented with (loves, and auiong the rich, by flues con-
ducted into every room, which is at the fame time guarded with double
u JiiJuvvs. In feveral inilances the Ruflians form a curious junction of
European and Afiatic manners ; many of their ceremonies partake of
Afiatic fplendour : the great are fond of dwarfs ; and fome opulent
<„(iies maintain female tellers of tales, whofe occupation is to lull their
miftreiTes afleep, by (lories refembling thofe of the Arabian Nights.

Language.] The RulTian language is extremely difficult, to pro-
ntuiice, and not lefs difficult to acquire, as it abounds with extraordinary
founds and anomalies of every kind. The charaflers amount to no lefs
tban thirly-fix ; and the common founds are fometimes expreffed in the
Greek charaders, fometimes' in charadlers quite unlike thofe of any other
language. Among other Hngularitics there is one letter to exprefs the
1^1^, and another ihsjcht thelatter a found hardly pronounceable by any
human mouth.

Literature.] The Ruffian literature fucceeded, as ufual, the con-
terfion of the empire to Chridianity. As there is no inducement for
jlrangers to learn the language, for the purpofe of peruflng works of
mm, it is unneceffary to enlarge upon it in a work of this general
nature. The elder authors are either writers of annals, or compilers of
nartyrologies, and lives of faints. Neflor, the earlied hiftorian, alfo
fet an example of the latter kind. In recent times the bed authors
refident in Ruffia, fuch as Pallas, and many others have liad recourfe
to the German language ; and little can be expeAed from the native
literature, till the language (hall have been reduced to tlie more precife
alphabft, and polifhed form of other European dialedls.

Education.] Education is little knawn or diffufed in Ruffia, though
the court have indituted academies for the inllrudion of officers and
irtills.

Universities.] The univerfity of Peterfburg, founded by the late
Emprefs Catherine II., is a noble indance of munificence, and it it
hoped will efcape the fate uf the colleges, founded at Mofcow, by
Peter the Great, which do not feem to have met with the deferved
fticcefs.

Cities and towns.] In confidering the chief cities and towns of
Ruffia, Mofcow, the ancient capital, attraCls the fird attention. This
city dates from the year 1 300, and is of very confiderable extent in po-
puUtion, thouffh injured by a pedilence in 1 77 1 . Prior to tills mortality
the houfes in Mofcow were computed at 12,538, and the population
j at not lefs than 200*000 *. Mofcow is built in the Afiatic manner, in
which cities cover a vaft fpace of eround. Peterfburg, the imperial
relidence, is faid to contain 1 70,000 ituiabitants ; and is the well known*
but furprifingr eredion of the lad century. It ftands in a marfliy fitua-
tiun on the nver Neva, the houfes being chiefly of wood, though there

*C()xe, Tr. in PoiamI, i. a&i. Svo. eflhutM, Irom good evidmce, the popuitUoa

I It 250,000.

L 3 be

i|9

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

be (bme of brick, ornamented with white ftucco. The (lone buildinir*
ire few ; and Peterfburg is mora diftiiiguiflied by its fame, than by its
appearance or opulence. Thenoblell public works are the quays, built
• of perpetual granite.

Cronftadt, in the government of Peterfburg, and KoUonna, in that of
Mofcow, are fuppofed each to contain about 60,000 inhabitants. Cher.
fon, in the government of Ecatharinflav, and Caffn, in Taurida, are faid

, each to contain 20,000; while 30,000 are afcribed to Tula, and 27,oco
to Riga, a city of conliderable trade and confequence. In general the
RufliaA towns are built of wood, and prefent few remarkable edifices.
A cathedral or two, and the royal palaces and fortreffcs, may deferve
a defcription better adapted to a book of travels than to a work of tliig
nature.

Inlakd NAVIOATION.] The inland navigation ^ Ruflia defcrves more
attention. Among other laudable improvements, Peter the Great formed
the defign of eftablifliing an intercourfe by water between Peterfturg
and Peifia, by the Cafpian fea, the Volga, the Mefta, and the lake of
Novgorod, &c. but this fcheme failed by the ignorance of the engineers.
During the long reign of the late cmprefs many canals were iccomplilhed,
or at leaft received fuch improvements that the chief honour miiit be af.
cribed to her adminiilration. The celebrated canal of Vifhnci Voloftok
was in fome (hape completed by Peter, fo as to form ji communication
between Aftracan and Peterfburg, the courfe being chiefly afl'orded by
rivers, and it was only neccffary to unite the Twertza running towards
the Cafpian, with the Shlina, which communicates with the Baltic,
The navigation is performed according to the feafon of the year, in fn)in
a fortnight to a month, and it is iuppofsd that near 4000 vcflcls pafs
annually *.

The canal of Ladoga, fo called, not becaufc it enters that lake, but
as winding along its margin, extends from the river VoJkof to the
Neva, a Ipace of 67^ miles, and communicates with the former canal.
By thefe two important canals conflant intercourfe is maintained between I
the northern and fouthem extremities of the empire. Another canal
leads from Mofcow to the river Don, forming a communication with the
Euxine ; and the canal of Cronltadt forms a fourth. Peter the Great
alfo deligned to have united the Don with the Volt^a, and thus have
opened an intercourfe between the Cafpian and Euxine Teas, and the
Baltic : and the whole empire abounds fo m«ch with rivers that nuuiy
advantageous canals remain to be opened. I

Manupacture-s and COMMBRCK.3 By thefe means the inland trade|
of Ruflia has attained confiderable profperity ; and the value of her ex.
ports and imports have been long upon the increafe. Several manufac*
tores are conduced with confiderable fpirit f . That of ifinglafs, which
is a preparation of the founds, or air faJadder of the ftur^eon, flouriihetl
on the Volga, the chief feat alfo of that of kaviar, confifting of the faltedf
toes of large fifli. The manufaAories of oil and foap are alfo confiderableij
■nd Peterlbarg exports great quantities of candles, befides tallow, which
abounds in an einpnT fo well repleni(hed with paftwrage ) nor muft the
Weweries and diftilleries be forgotten. Saltpetre is an imperial trafEcJ
aad fome fugar is refined at Peterfburg. There are feveral manufaAurcs

' of paper* and of tobacco, which grows abundantly in the fouthem proJ
irinces. Linen is manufaAured in abundance \ the beft comes from ths
government of Archangel. Cotton is little wrought, but the filk numuJ

• Phillip, 10. at.

t Twkv, iii. 469, Sic.

fftaorM

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

151

fjAories are numerous : coarfe cloths, carpets, and hats, are alfo made
jii Ruflia, and leather has lon^ been a iUple commodity.

Ruflia produces vail quantities of wax, which is, however, generally
f;(ported unbleached ; nor are there wanting fabrics of earthen ware and
porcelain. Iron founderies abound ; and in the northern government of
Olonetz is a grand foundery of cannon.

« The following is a ftate of the manufa^ories in Ruflia in 1803 ; ^

For gold and filver leaf, gold-lace, wire, &c.

Steel, caft-iron, needles, and other articles of

rteel - - - - '

Brafs manufactories
Clocks and watches ^

Porcelain, earthen ware, &c.
Colours, dye ftuffs, 8cc.
Glafs-houfts .

Linen manufa^ries

Cotton do. ...

printed cottons - . -

Cotton cloths J -

Paper - - . -

Ropes h - . -

Potafli . - . -

Tobacco - - . -

Sugar-houfes - . -

powder and llarch •, _^ ««^' ■

Japanned wares - - - '

Woollen cloth, and other woollen articles
Hats - . - -

Silk m

Leather • • • . •

Total - - '

iron

and

Nund>er in the
whnle eukf'iK.

: 26

i-T

283

¥J
8«

«5f

321
843

" Seventeen new manufaflories were eftabllihed in 1803 ♦.'*
The commerce of Ruflia was known in the middle ages by the con-
neftion between the Hanfe towns, in the north of Germany and Nov-
gorod, eftablidied about 1276. So wide is now this empire that it main-
taiif a commerce of the moft remote defcriptions, on the Baltic and
the White fea, the Euxine and the Cafpian, with Perfia, and with
China. Archangel, thonch fallen from its ancient confequence by the
building of Peterfburg, ftill affords a moderate trade, and exports pot-
ilh, kaviar, tallow, wax» hide*, hemp, &c. with corn, Hnfeed, coarfe
linens, and other articles. The commerce of Pcterfburg is much of the
famedefcription : that of Riga is very conliderable, and to other articles
are added, mails from the Dnieper. Ruflia is fuppofed to export hy the
Baltic grain annually to the value of i7o,o:)cL and hemp and flax, raw
and manufaAured, to the amount of a million and a half fterltng.

The commerce of the Euxine, or Black fea, is of inferior moment,
its chief exports being furs, fait beef, butter, cordage, fail cloth, kaviar»

* Rufsland, HwnAtl Lmdwirthfcbafdivke Kultur und PivduAc von W. C. Friebe. Pe-
tniburg, an>li. 1796, tlu:. .

L4 * tonir

»5»

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

corn» with iron, linei)} and fome cotton fluffs. Imports, wine, fruit
coffiee, filks, rice, and feveral Turkifh commodities *. '

The Ruffian harbours in this fea are Aftracan, the chief feat of the
Cafpian commerce, Gurief, and Kifliar. From Aftracan are exported
many European manufactures ; and the chief imports are raw filk, rice
dried fruits, fpices, faffron, fulphur, and naphtha. Tl»e Hindoo mer!
chants occafionally bring gold, and precious ftones. The annual trade
is computed at 1,000.000 of TUbles, or joo,oooI. That of the Euxine
is not above one-third of this value.

Ruflia likewife maintains fome commerce by land with Pruflia. That
with Perfia is of little moment : the chief imports are lilk. There is a
confiderable trade by land with the Kirgufes, who fend horfes, cattle, and
flieep, in return for woollen-cloths, iron, and European articles. That
with China is nearly on a par ; each countiry tranfmitting to the amount
of about 2,000,000 of rubles. (400,0001.) Ruflia exchanges her pre-
cious Siberian furs for tea, filk, and porcelain.

The internal commerce of Ruflia is very confiderable ; and Siberia is
faid to aiFord in gold, filver, copper, iron, fait, gems, &c. to the amount
of 1 2,000,000 of rubles, (2,400,0001.), that between thefouthem and
northern provinces is alfo of great extent and value. The coin current
in the empire is fuppofed to amount to about 30,000,0001. llerling, the
paper money to about 20,ooo,oool. The Siberian gold and filver Uipply
an important addition tu the national currency.

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.

CUmate and Seafom. — Face of the Country. — Soil and Agrieuhure.'—Rivm.
—Laiet.'—'Mountaint.—Forefit.— -Botany.— -Zoology.'— Mineralogy.-^
Mineral Waters. — Natural Curioft'us.

r>. . -1 T'HE climate of Ruflia in Europe, as

Climate and seasons.] ^ ^^^ ^ ^^^^^^^ -^ ^^^^ ^ ^i^^^P^' ^^

latitudes, prefents almoft every variety from that of Lapland, to that
of Italy : for the newly acquired province of Taurida may be compared
witli Italy in climate and foil. But winter maintains the chief fway at
Peterfburg, the capital, and the Neva is annually frozen from November

.to March or April. The climate around the frozen ocean, and the laft
European ifle upon the N. £. that of Novaya Zemlia, or the New
Land, is of noted feverity, the northern fide being encompaffed with
mountains of ice, and the fun not vifible from the middle of 0£lober till
February } while it never fets during June and July. Taurida pre-
fents, on the contrary, all the luxurianre of the fouthern year,
while the middle regions are bled with the mild feafons of Germany and
Entrland.

Face op the country.] In fo wide an empire, the face of the
country muft alfo be extremely various ; but the chief feature of European
Ruflia confifts in plains of a prodigious extent, rivalling in that refpeft
the vali deferts of Afla and Africa. In the fouth are fome extenfiy^

Jl^tf or dry and elevated plains, fuch as that above the fea of Azof, in

♦ Tooke, iii, 57 «•

.»» !'•»■ I yrrr :■ >

length

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

»53

cu »J 2^°"^ ¥P Englifli miles. The numerous and majeftic rivers alfo
'^iJ^f^itute a dininguiming feature of this empire.

Soil' AND AGRICULTURE.] The foil is of courfe, alfo extremely di-

ii from the chilling marfliea which border the White and Frozen feas«
tottierichand fertile plains on the Volga. The moft fertile is that
Mweeh the Don and the Volga, from Voronetz to Simbirflc, confiftin?
of a black mould, ftrongly impregnated with falt-petre ; that is a fou
formed from fuccefllve layers of vegetable remains *. In Livonia and
Eilhonia the medial returns of harveft are eight or ten fold ; and the
latter is generally the produce of the rich plains near the Don, where
the fields are never manured, but on the contrary are apt to fwell the
corn into too much luxuriance. Pafturage is fo abundant that the
meadows are little regarded, and the artificial production of grafles is
fcarcely knoM'n. Some of the meadows are watered, and produce large
crops of hay, the dry paflures yield a (hort, but nutritious produce, and
in a few of the fteppesthe grafs will attam the height of a man, and is
feldom mown. .

Agriculture is hardly known in the northern parts of the governments
of Olonetz, and Archangel ; but in the central parts of the empire has
Ijeen purfued from time immemorial.

In general, however, agriculture is treated with great negligence, yet
tbeharvefts are abundant. In the north rye is moil generally cultivated ;
but in the middle and the fouthem regions wheat ; in the government of
Ekatannoflav the Arnautan wheat is beautiful, the flour yellowifli, the
return commonly fifteen fold ; nor is TuAciih wheat, or maize, unknown
in Taurida. Barley is a general produce, and is converted into meal, as
well as oats, of which a kind of porridge is compofed. Millet is alfo
widely diffufed. Rice fucceeds well in the vicinity of Kiflear. Hemp
and flax form great objects of agriculture. Tobacco has been produced
iince the year 1763, chiefly from Turkifli and Perfian feed. The olive
has been tried in vain at Aftracan, but profpers in the fouthem mountains
of Taurida along the Euxine. The government of Mofcow produces
abundance of excellent afparagus ; and fugar-melons abound near the
Don and the Volga. Laree orchards are feen in the middle and fouthern
parts of Ruflia, yet quantities of fruit are imported.- While apples and
pears are found as far north as the 49^, plums and cherries extend to the
»°. What is called the Kirefskoi apple often weighs four pounds, is
of an agreeable flavour, and will keep a long time. A tranfparent fort
from China is alfo cultivated, called the Nalivui, meltintr and full of juicef .
Bees are not known in Siberia, but form an object of great attention in
the Uralian forefts.

Rivers.] In enumerating the chief rivers of European Ruflia the firft
attention is due to the majeftic Volga, which forms, through a long
fpace, the boundary between Afia and Eiirope, belonging properly to
the latter continent in which it arifes, and from which it (drives its fup>
uKes, till at Tzaritzin, about 250 miles from its mouth, it turns S. £.
into Afia. This fovereign of European rivers derives its fources from
feveral lakes in the mountains of Valday, and government of Tver,
between Peterfburg and Mofcow ; and bends its chief courfe to the
S. £. ; near its junction with the Kama, an important river fed by many
llreams from the Uralian chain, it turns towards the S. W. till it arrives
at Tzaritzin. Its comparative courfe may be computed at about 700
miles. This noble river having no cataracts, and few flioals, is navigable

• Touke, i. 67.

t Tooke, iii. 340.

eveu

'54

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

even to Twer. The tributary rivers of the Volga are chiefly, from th
eaft, the Kama, which rivals the Volea at their junction, rifing in th^

Government of Viatka* and running N. W. afterwards due E. and then
. On the well the chief ftream which runs into the Volga is the Oka
which rifes in the government of Orel. '

Next to the Volga, on the weft, is the Don, or Tanais, which riff^
from a lake in the government of Tulan, and falls into the fea of Azof
after a courfe of about 800 miles. *

The Neiper, or ancient Boryfthenes, rifes in the government of Smo.
lenflc, about 150 miles to the fouth of the fource of the Volga, and
about 100 to the S. E. of that of the Duna, or Dtiina, which flows
into the Baltic, by Riga ; and after a courfe of about loco miles
through rich and fertile provinces, falls into the Euxine. The Bov, or
Hypanis, a far inferior ftream, falls intQ the Liman, or eftuary of the
JJeiper,

The Nicfter, or ancient Tyras, now forms the boundary between
European Turkey and Rufiia, deriving its fource from the north fide of
the Carpatian mountains, and falling into the Euxine At Akerman, afur
a courfe of about 600 miles.

Several important rivers dire£t their courfe towards the Ar6lic ocean,
fuch as the Cara, which though not a confiderable river is yet remarkabli',
as forming the boundary between Afia and Europe, for the fpaceof
about 140 miles, the Uralian chain terminating fo far from the fea of
Cara-fkoi, or Karfkoi

The river Petfhora rifes in the Ural mountains, and joins the Frozen
ocean, after a courfe of about 450 miles.

Next, on the weft, is the Mezen, which falls into the White fea after
a courfe of about 350 miles.

The Dwina falls into the gulph of Archangel, after a confiderable
courfe of about 500 miles. Ihe Onega olofes-the lift of the chief riveis
that flow into the Arftic ocean ; for thofe of Olonetz, and ef Rufliaii
Lapland, are of little confequence.

The Svir joins the lake of Onega wif.h that of Laclora, which by tlie
Neva, a more important ft ream, falls into the gulph of Finland. Tliis
river, pervading the city of Peterfburg, is about 40 miles in lenath, but 1
of confiderable breadth and depth, and fubjedt to violent floods, whiih i
have been recently guarded againll by deepening the bed, and by ercd< j
ing ftrong quays of^granite.

The Narva alfo runs a (hort courfe from the Tchudflcoi, or Peypus I
lake, into the Finnifh gulph. The Pcmof rifes fomc miles to the well
of the Peypus lake, and falls into the gulph of Riga.

But the mod confiderable ftream in this quarter is the Duna, whofe]
fource has been already mentioned. It has fome confiderable and dan-
gerous falls; and fometimes greatly injures the city of Riga, at tliel
breaking up of the ice. Its courfe is about coo miles. The Nimen |
nowr forms a part of the boundary between RufHa and PrniTia, and is
joipied by a canal to the river Pripaz, which falls into the Neiper; but I
the cataracts in the latter river, about 250 miles above its etluary,!
greatly impede the intercourfe that might thus be eftabliftied with I
the Euxine. I

Lakes. 1^ The chief Jakes of European Ruflia are fituated in the!
,N. W. divifioD of tlie empire. There is a confiderable lake in RiiflianJ
Lapland, that of Imandra; to the fouth of which the government off
Olonetz prefents many extenftve pieces of water, particularly the largel
lake of Onega, which is about 150 miles in length, by a medial breadthj

9 vll

RUSSIA IN EUROPE. » ' IjJ ^

f about 3'^. The iflands and (hores of the Onejra are chiefly ca|-
^ reous, and contain feme valuable marbles. To the weft is the La-
doiia» a^°"' *5° "''^*^' '" length, by 70 in breadth, being one of the
lareell \^'^ *" Europe. As it ha« many ftioals, and is liable to fudden
n| violent tempefts, Peter the Great opened a canal along its ftiore,
from the Volk to the Neva. The fiftiery of this lake feems of little con-
fequence ; but the northern (bores produce the beautiful Finnifli marble,
which is much ufcd at Peterfhurg.

On the S.W. we find the lake of Peypiis, about 60 miles in length by
50 in breadth : the northern part of this lake is ftyled that of Ifliud, the
loiith that of Pzcove. From the Peypus, iffues the river Narova, or
Narva. To the eaft is the lake Ilmen, on which Hands the ancient city
of Novgorod. The Peilo, or White lake, is fo called from its bottom
of white clay.

But the lakes that give rife to the famous Volga muft not be
oniitted. The chief of thefe is the lake Seliger, in the government of
Tver, which, though narrow, extends about thirty miles in length (
and a finaller lake, not far to the weft, emits another fource of that auguli

river.

MousTAiN.s.] It has already been mentioned that European Ruflia
is rather a plain country,* though fome parts of it be greatly elevated,
fuch as that which fenas forth the three rivers of Duna, Volgat and
Nieper. This region, which is pafled in trnveUing from Petcrftjurg to
Moicow, is by fome called the mountains of Valday, from the town and
lake of Vahlay, lituated on the ridge ; but by the natives it is ftyled
yhifoiay Plojlchade, or elevated gi-ound ; and no mountains are here de-
lineated in the common maps. In this quarter the ground is ftrewn with
maffes of granite, but tlie hills are chiefly marl, land, and clay ; and
what are called the mountains of Valday feem to be a high table land,
furmounted with large .fand hills, and interfperfed with maifcs of red
and grey granite : near Valday is the higheft part of the ridge„ which
fcems to be in a N.E. and S.W. direction. The hills, lakes, and jj^roves,
are beautiful ; and there is an ifland with a noble monaftery. To the
fouth of Valday the mafles of granite become fmaller, and more rare :
and calcareous petrifaiiions appear, which are followed by the clay near
Mofcow. Mr. Tooke • computes the higheft point of the Valday at
only 200 fathoms above the level of Peterfturg, about 1 200 feet above
the fea : the height is in'conftderable, and gives a ftriking impreiHon of
the gentle and plain level, through which fuch extenlive rivers muft
purfue their courfe. The woods on the Valday are chiefly pine, fir,
birch, Hnden, afpen, and alder ; the foil in the vale is fertile, moftly clay
and tnarl.

From the Valday towards the S. fcaree a mountain occur!*, but after
paffing the fteppc of the Nieper, an arid plain with fait lakes, which
perhaps indicate the extent of the Euxine at remote periods, we arrive
at the mountains of Taurida, which are rather romantic than of re-
markable height, being calcareous and alluvial. I'o the 8. of tiiis chain,
along the ftioresof the Euxine, are the beautiful vales, io well defcribed
by Pallas, prodvlftive of the laurel, the olive, the fig, and the pomc-
granater while the arbutus adorns the fteepeft cliffs with its red bark,
and foUage of perpetual green. The caper and the vine alfo sd>oui}4
in this natural orchard, and the flocks of flieep and goats ieedin|r
on the hills| or bounding from the rocks, unite writh the iunple aa«

• VoU i. ISO.

good

156

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

good humoured manners of the Tatar inhabitants, to render the fcenp
truly paftoral. , ,

But the moil important chains of mountains in European RulT
remain to be defcribed» thofe of Olonetz in the furtheit N/and thol^
of Ural which feparate Europe from Afia. The chain of Olonet''
runs in a direction almoft due N., for the fpace of 15° or about qoq
G miles. The moft Ar£lic part is faid to confift chiefly of granite
petrofilex, and lime-ftone ; and is not of great height, but retains per!
petual fnow from the altitude of the clunate. More to the S. branches
firetch on the E. towards the gulph of Kandalak : the granite is inter.
mixed with large (heets of talc, and patches of trap are found, parti!
cularly near the gold mines of Vojrtz, on the weftem tide of the river
Vyg. Various other ores occur in this region, and veins of copper
pyntes appear in the trap.

In the centre, between the mountains of Olonetz and thofe of Ural

there feems to be a conflderable chain extending from the E. of Mezer!

to the Canin Nos, a bold promontory which rufhes into the Frozen ocean •

but this chain appears to have efcaped the fearches of curiofity or avarice'

by the perpetual fnovvs. with which it is enveloped. H he immenfe

Uralian chain extends from about the 50th to near the 67th degree of

N. latitude, or about 1000 C miles in length, and has by tlie Ruffians

been called ^ememi Foiatt or the girdle of the world*, an extra.

vagant appellation, when we confider that the chain of the Andes

extends near 5000 miles. Pauda, one of the higheft mountains of the

Uralian chain, is reported by Gmelin to be about 4512 feet above the

level of the fea, an inconfiderable height when compared with Mont

Blanc or Mont Rofa. The central part of this chain abounds in metals,

from Orenburg on the fouth.to the neighbourhood of Perm, where,

on the Afiatic fide are, Venchoutury on the N., Ekatarinenburg on the

S., places remarkable for opulent mines. The higheft ridges are

chiefly granite, gneifs, and micaceous fchiftus, while the exterior hills

of the chain on the W. are, as ufual, calcareous. Serpentine, jafper,

and trap, are alfo found, with argillaceous fchiftus, and other varieties,

to be expe^ied in fo long a chain.

Forests. J European Ruffia is fo abundant in forefts that it would be
vain to attempt to enumerate them. There are prodigious forefts
between Peterfburg and Mofcow, and others between Vladimir and Arzo.
mas. Further to the S. there feems to have been a foreft of ftill greater
extent, probably the Riphxan foreft of antiquity in the direction of the
rich blacK foil fo remarkable for its fertility f .

Botany.] When we confider the vaft extent of territory compre-
hended under the European fovereignty of Ruifia, from the frozen
Ihore of Archangel to the delicious cumate of the Crimea, and that the
whole of this great empire has fcarcely produced a fingle naturalift of
anv eminence, all that is known of its vejgetables, animals, and minerals,
bemg colleded for the moft part \yithin the laft forty years by a few
foreigners, under the munificent patronage of Catherine 11., it will be
evident that the rudiments alone of the Ruffian flora can as yet be extant.
The provinces Wdering upon the Baltic, and the newly acquired go.

. * Pennant, A. ZouL 158.

t Mr. Owe, Trtvelt in Poland, Ike. vol. i. 333, 341, defcrihcs the raft foreft of Vol-
koiifki, as begtnnli'g tiear Viafinar, and continuing to the gates of Moftow, ashetraHW
through it without interruption for 1 SO milea. He fays that the Vulga, Duna, and Dnie-
per. arife in tliis immenfe foreli, which oonfiftsof otks, heech, mountun-afh, poplar,
pine*, and fin, mingled togetlier in endleiii variety.

vemtnent

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

vernment of Taurida, have been examined with Tome attention { and a
f.# ftriking features of the botany of the interior of the cduntry have
L(tn defcribed by travellers j but many years of patient refearch muft
ebpie before the natural hiftory of Ruffia is advanced to an equal degree
jf accuracy with that of the weftem parts of Europe.

fbe Ruflian provinces N. of the Bbltic, contain the fame plants as
Agfe of Swedim and Nprwegian Lapland, which will be hereafter
jefcribed. Such as extend between the 50th and 60th deg. lat. aboimd
nriocipaUy in the conunon vegetables of the N. of France and Germany,
[ome of which, however, are wanting, on account of the great feverity ,
of the Ruffian winters, from their proximity to the vail plains of Tatary,
iiiid the forefts of Siberia. The trees of moft ufe, and m greal;eft abun-
dance are, the fir ; the Scotch pine j the yew-leaved fir ; and the larch :
^of w^Ln mingled together, form the vaft impenetrable forefts, whence
the relt of Europe is principally fupplied with mails, deals, pitch, and
tjr. The other foreft trees are, the elm, the lime, of the inner bark of
ffhichthe Ruflian mats are made, a^ from whofe bloifoms the immenfe
(ffarms of wild bees collect the chief part of their honey ; the birch,
the alder, the afpen, the greater maple, and the fycamore ; of the flirubs
and humbler plants, thofe of moft importance are the cloud«berry, the
cranberry, the bear-berry, the ftone bramble; the fruit of all which,
for want of better, is highly efteemed, and is either eaten freih, or is
preferved in fnow during the winte'r. Quitting the pine forefts of the
I^, and middle of Rulfia, if we turn our attention to the few vegetable
produftions that have as yet been noticed amidft the myriads that adorn
and enrich the broad vales of the Don and the Dneiper, that glow upon
the warm ihoresof the Black fea, or luxuriate in the delicious recelTes of
Taurida, we (hall fee what a rich harveft is referved for future naturalifts,
and vrith what eafe the inhabitants, when once become civilized, may
avail themfelves of the uncommon bounties of their foih Here rifes in
itately majefty for future navies the oak, both the common kind and the
ipecies with prickly cups, the black and the white poplars of unufual
iizeikirt along the margins of the ftreams, the afli, the horn-beam, the
nettle tree, occupy the upland paftures, and the elegant beech crowns
the fummits of the lime none ridges. Of the fruit«hearing ihrubs and
trees, befides the goofeberry, the red, the white, and the buck currant,
which are difperled in abundance through the woods, there are the
almond and peach; the apricot and crab<herry; the medlar; the
walnut ; the Tatarian, the black and white mulberry ; the olive ; the
Chio-turpentine tree ; the hazle nut ; the fig ; the vine and the pome-
granate.

Zoology.] The zoc^ogy of Ruflia is vaft and various, and only a
very ilight iketch can here be attempted. The more peculiar animals
are the white bear of Novaya Zemlia, or the New Land, and the fouflik
of the S. In the more northern parts are found the wolf, the lynx, the
elk; nor is the camel" unknown m the lower latitudes. The animals in
the centre fe«m common to the reft of Europe. Among the more ufe-
ful animals the horfe has met with deferved attention, and the breed in
many parts of the empire is large, ftrong, alid beautiful.

Even thecountr^r near Archanjrel is remarkable for excellent pafturage
and fine cattle, which mxy be faid in general to abound in the empire^
The iheep in the northern provinces are of a middle fize, fliort tailed, and
the wool coarfe ; nor is proper attention paid towards improving the
breed. Thofe in the S. are long tailed, and yield a fuperior wool ; but

10 the

Hkmimi'..

158

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

the beft is from th? ancient kinordom of Kazan, and other recrlrin. ;„ .1
eall of European Ri.ffia. ^ g'onsinihs

In Taurida it h faid that common Tatars may polTefs about m
(heep, while an opulent flock is computed at 50,00c ; thofe of t?°
whole peninfula were fuppofed to amount to 7,000,000 : nor is the r«'^
deer unknown in the furtheft N. ; fo that the empire may be iaid to
tend from the latitude of the rein-deer to that of the camel.

MiKEKALOoy.] Tlie chief mines belonging to Ruflia arc in th-
Aliatic part of the empire, but a few are fituated in the European in tl >
mountains of Olonetz ; and there was formerly a gold mine in th-
region, near the river Vy ;. In the reign of Ivan Baluowitz, the Enirli|i
in 1569 obtained the privilege of working mines of iron, on condition tliat
they (huuld teach the Ruffians their metallurgy. During the reicn of
Alexis* the firft regular mines were eltabliihed in Ruffia, about 60 miles
from Mufcow, and they are ilill continued ; but Peter the Great wab the
founder of the Ruffian mineralogy, by the inftitution of the colWe of
mines in 1719 ; and copper and iron were fuccefsfully wrought in theter.
ritory of Perm. About 1 730 the rich mines began to be difcovered in the
Afutic part of the empire, the defcription of which will come hereafter
In 1739 gold waslirll obferved in thechain of Olonetz, as already mm'.
tioned ; and the mines of Voytzer near tlie Vyg were opened, but with
little fuccefs.

*• The newly difcoTered gold mine in the Ekathcrinburg circle of the
Uralian mountains affords the beft hopes. Of 60,000 poods of ore whidi
had been dug up to the month of Oftober 1804, 12,000 had been
frhelted, and produced about 13 pounds of pure gold. Apeafantnhu
difcorered the mine obtained a penfion of 200 rubles *.

** In European Ruffia the irou mines are of the moft importance, and the
metal is well known in our xnanufaClories. The chief iron mines are at
Dougna near Smolenfk."

Mineral waters] European Ruffia being a plain country, can
boaft of few mineral waters ; the moft celebrated is near Sarepta on the
Volga, difcovered in 1775. The fprings are here numeroi>« and copious,
andltrongly impregnated with iron. Ih thediftriAof Perekop, and on
the ifle of Taman, belonging to the government of Taunda, there are
fprings of naphtha f .

Natural cuuiosities.] THe natural curionties of Ruffia in Europe
have fcarcely been enumerated, except thofe which inilicate the feverity
of winter in fo northern a clime. Not to mention the rocks of ice, of j
many miles in extent and furpriUng height, which navigate the frozen
ocean, adorned like cathedrals with pinnacles, which rrfledl a thoufaDd I
colours in the fun, or aurora borealis 1 it is well known that tlie Emprefi
Anne built a palace of ice, on the bank of the Neva, in 1740, which wai|
52 feet in length, and when illuminated bad a furpritinr effed.

The grotto of Kurgur, on the weftern fide of the Uralian monntaini
has been defcribed with a plan by Gmelin ;):. It is of i^reat extcuti aod
contains even fubterrinean lakes and meadows. •. ^t •- . •

RUSSIAN ISLES.

The fmall ifle of Cronftadt, in the gulph of Finland, vru formerlyl
called Retufavt, and is only remarkable for an excellent hatcn, ftroD|l]r|

• U«ft.G«B.<l«V*y.

t TsfllNk t- flM.

} Friebs, ■llfupn.

fortified'^

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

'59

fortifie<J» the chief ilation of the Ruflian fleet. In the Baltic, Ruflla alfo

flelTestlie iflandft of Oefel and Daj^o, which are of a confidtrable fize,
Lt full of rocks ; the marble cf the firll ifland is however beautiful*
pi, ides are chiefly peopled by Ellonians.

There are feveral iiles near the (hore of Ruflizn Lapland, and in the
White fea, but generally barren and uninhabited rocks. Novaya Zemha,
rtheNcw Land, is alfo uninhabited, and is faid to confift of live ifles,
hutthe channels between themare always filled with ice *. Seals, wal-
riifes ardic fo.xes, white bears, and a few rein deer, conilitute the zoology
ofthis (lefert ; and are occafionaUy hunted by the people of Me/en. To
thefouth of Novaya Zemha 18 the fea of Cara (Karikoye) in which the
tide flows about two feet nine inches.

The remote and dreary iflands of Spitzbergen having been taken pof-
feffion of by the Ruffians, they may be here briefly dcfcribed. This
country has by fome been ilyled New Greenland, a name which accurately
bflongs to the weftern fide of Greenland I'roper, in North America,
while the eaftern fide is called Old Greenland, as having been anciently
planted by the Danes, though fince blocked up bv ice. The main land
of Spitzbergen extends about 300 miles from the (outli cape, lat. 76 ' 30'
toVerlegan Ho6k, lat. 80 7'. In an adjacciit fmall ifle are faid to be
bafaltic columns, from eighteen to twenty inchcii in diameter, and moftly
bestagonalf . Drift-wood is frequent in theft- northern latitudes, partly
perhaps from the banks of the Ob, and partly from America, there being
a ilrong current from the Well Indies to the N.E. Spitzbergen is fup-
pofedto have been firlt difcovered by flie Dutch navigator Barentz in
)ro6. The mountains are of granite and grit ; the higheft not exceeding
iooofeet ; for mtnuiiains in general decline in height towards the poles.
The ice-bergs or glaciers, in the N.E. of Spitzbergen, prefcnt a fingular
appearance, being high cliffs of an emerald i clour, impendent over the feii,
nuh catamds oi melted fnow, and a back ground of black conic hills
llrcaked with white. The fea itfclf contains mountains of ice formed
by aggregation ; a large field forcing a fmaller out of the water till it lodge
upon the fuperior furfacc, and the height is afterwards increafed by the
liiuv, till itfometimes rife tb 1500 feet. About the firll of November
the fun fets, a!id appitars no more till the beginning of February ; and
after the beginning ut May it never fets till Auguli. The only mrubby
plant it the Lapland willow, which rifes to the height of two inches.
Here arc found polar bears, foxes* and rein deer, with walrufes and feals.
There are a few kinds of water fowl ; but the whale is the lord of thefe
Ihallow feas. The Ruffians from Archangel maintain a kind of colony i
indthat northern region feems indeed to have a natural right to Spitz*
bergen. To the N.E. of this dreary group are the fmall ifles called the
Seven Sifters, the mott ar^ic land yet difcovered.

This dcfcription ihall be ter^.tinated by fome account of the Russiak
Amiricam (Jumpany, whofe tranfaftions have hitherto cfcaped due
notice

The origin of this trading company may be traced back to thnfe hunting
I and tfaditig expeditions, undertaken by the Ruflians finccthe year 1745.
I The difcuvery of Kamtfchatka, and tne pofTelEon of It by the RuiUans
lin 1696 — 1706, foon gave rife to two voyages of difcotery in the Eailern
loceaii; the firA of which took place in 1725—1730, and the fecond in
117^1-1741. The objed of the former was to thew the feparationof
lAlia from America, oy meant of it a more accurate knowledge was not

* Pouitat, Ar. Zoel. (A$,

f Ibid.ciuii.

OD^

i6o

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

only obtained of the Kurile iflandi, the exiftence of which had Iv*. I
known to the Ruffians fince 171 1 ; but the Alieutian Iflands wcredif
▼ered in 1741. This laft difcovery was attended with the moft import*^""
confequences to commerce. "' '

After the fecond Kamtfchatdale expedition, no further refearches w

undertaken in thefe feaa at the expence of government, till the ^^

1768 ; but the exertions of private individuals, to take advantage of thor

year

already made, and to carry them ftill further, were the more aftiv
The quantity of furs which the navigators fent upon thefe expedition
brought back with them» induced fome merchants, in the year 174? » |
undertake a new expedition, the refult of which was the difcovervof
Copper ifland. After that period, fcarcely a year elapfed in which thia
and the neighbouring iflands were not vifited by fome veflels in order to
obtain furs, and particularly fea-otter fkins, the fale of which on the Chi.
nefe frontiers, opened a new and very important branch of trade. The (hins
were fitted out at Ochotzk, where there had been a regular etlablifliment
for fliip-building ever fince 1 7 14. As the catching of fea-otters was at.
tended with advantage alfo to the crown, the governors of Irkutik I
Ochotzk, and Kamtfchatka, encouraged the merchants and adventurers
of thefe diftridlsby every means in their power toundeirakenewexpedj.l
tions ; and the confequence at length was, that, by the year 17^0, all]
the Alieutian iflands, and even the eaftern ones, were difcovered and an-
nexed to the Ruffian empire. The fea>otter fkins became gradually the]
bafis of the Ruffio>chinefe trade; and of courfe this trade tended in a I
very great degree to promote the difcoveries of the Ruffians on the north.
wen coaft of America,

The adventurers in the Ruffian expeditions were at firft for the moll I
part Siberian merchants and Coffiics ; as their expeditions were carried]
further and became more expenfive, this branch of trade came by de.l
grees into the hands of a few rich merchants at Irkutfk, Tobolik, and!
other trading towns in tlic interior of ,Ruffia, among whom were the mer.l
chant Schelikof, at Rylfk, and his partners, the two brothers Golikofl
at Kurfk. None of the trading houfes was more a£Uve than this.!
Sclielikof himfelf undertook feveral voyages to the iflands and the northJ
well coaft of America ; he alfo publiflied an account of his voyage, byl
which he rectified the knowledge of thefe parts> in which he even madel
new difcoveries ; and at length formed a confiderable eftablifhment on the!
ifland of Kadyak ; which fince that period has been the ftaple or centrel
of the whole trade *. He and his partners tirft afTumed the name of thel
American Company. In the year 1798 this company united itfilf withi
the' Irkulki trading company, at the head of which was a merchantl
named Mylnikof ; and it then took the title of the United Americanl
Company. Twenty mercantile families had fharcs in it. In the yeirl
t799 this company obtained a patent from the emperor, by which it wiil
eftabliflied as a privileged trading company under the title cl the Ruflicf
American Company.

The capital of thia company was of two kinds : the real capital
fubfcribed by the twenty original partners, and a credit capital.

The former, in the year 1798, confifted of 734100 rubles, divi'dl
into 734 fhares of 1000 rubles each. The amount of the latter,
which the company iffued billsi can be known only from their books.

* Thii rcfpcAable member of fociety died in 1797< The rnipitror I'sul cini.frrcd th
niik of noble U|Hm hit widow, who had accompuiied her lui(b«iici in til hii vu)iigt'v u\<n
•ifo uiran hrr defceiKknu. RtfjUiof, wl<u went oui u einlmiliHiur to Jap«n, wu fuii-in-)i»
of SvaeUkwt's wUmt.

Th<

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

i6i

The principal fa£lory is at Irkuik ; befides which there are four fub-
nrdin^te ones, namely, at OchotHc and in the iflands Kadyak, Onalafchka^
j„a Kurilflcaya Gryaeda.

It is managed by two direftors, or four if circumftances fhould require
it The (hares may be transferred by fale, oi* in any other mann^. It

'5 jn cxclufive privilege for twenty years. The pofleflions of the com-
jny are as follows : .

[. The Kurile ifles comprehending eighteen largeanda number of fmaller
iOands. The eighteenth, or molt fouthern idand is called, in the
language of the natives, Urup, and by the Rufiians, who on a bay on
the eaitern coaft of it have the eilablifhment Kurile Roflly (formerly
Kurillkaya Griaeda), is called Alexander's ifland. One of the faftories
15 ellabliihed in this ifland. The Japanefe iflands immediately adjacent to
Alexander's ifland are Atorkue, Kunafchiri, Tfchikota and Matraai.
The lad mentioned large ifland is fcparated from the ifland of Niphoii
jnly by a narrow ftrait.

II. The Alieutian iflands comprehend the Alieutian, Andreanofski,
ind Fox iflands as far as the peninfula Aliaflo. The company has ella-
blilliineiits in almoil all thefc iflands ; but the moil important are in the
iiandsof Atcka and Onalafcha. The fecond of the four fadlories already
mentioned is alfo in the latter. •

III. Tlie Renaiflii group of iflands is formed by the large ifland
Kadyali and a number of fmaller ones fcattered around. Kadyak and
Afognak were firll occupied and further explored by Schelikof between
[rgjand 1787. Radyak is at prefent the moil important pofleiTion of
the company. In this ifland there are feveral cilablifliments, the largell
of which is Fort St. Paul, the feat of the third faftory, and of the go-
vernor or chief agent of the company. The harbour of St. Paul is dan-
gerous for fliips of a certain fize. The bell harbours are at tlic fort of
the Three Holy Fathers, named after one of the three fliips with which
Schehkof performed his firll voyage fouth-weft from St. Paul ; and
Kukak, a fmall ifland, a little dillance to the eail of the above fort.

IV. The poflcffioivs of the company on the continent of America,
which extend along the north-well coall from latitude 55° north, to be)'ond
Bering's llrait. On that immenfc range of coall which (Iretches north
from the peninfula Aliaflta, and on the peninfula itfelf the company have
formed no eftablifliments ; but they are vifited by its fliips : and the large
Ruffian maps exhibit between latitude 60 and 67° 52 letllements of the
natives, which for the molt part lie on the fca coaft, but fometimes at a
confidcrable diilance from it, on rivers and inlets of the fea that penetrate
agood way into the country.

The coall of the continent, lying eaft from the peninfula Alialka,
was lirll taken pofleflion of for the Ruffian empire in the years 1788 and
i"89, by Schelikof, or rather by a Greek, named Dalaref, who was
then chief fa£lor of his company. This <:oafl contains two large bays,
the Renaiflti, formerly called by the Englifti Cook's River, but at
prefent after Vancouver, Cooke's Inlet, and the Tfchngazki, called
b) the Englifh Prince William's Sound, The Ruflian appellntions are
borrowed from the names of the tribes who inhabit the diftridls in the
neighbourhood of thefebays. Both thefc inlets higher up are feparated
only by a narrow tongue of land, which the Ruflians fometimes crofs,
carrying with them their fmall veflHs.

On the Renaifki bay or found (Cook's River or Inlet) the company
has feveral cllabliftiments ; alft) on the bay or found Tfchuga/ki (Prince
William's Sound)* and on the coifl below the bay Tfdiugafki.

M , . . The

'■T^*fv;

r6i

RUSSIA IN EUROPE.

The moll foutBem eftabliftiment is in the Bay Sitka, called by tTie tn

pollellion ot by liaranot, tne airector or tne company m 1 7gg . j,, »
on which heconllrufted the fort of the Archangel Michael. Thisiflantt
is now called by the Ruffians Baraitof *s Ifland. The hill on it, called
by Cook Mount Edgecumbe, was feen in the year 1 742 by Tfcherikof
and called tlie Kill of Lazarus. *

Befides thefe four faftories at Ochotzk, Kadyak, Onalafchka, and
Kurilo-Rofliy, the company have four more in Kumtfchatka, naaiclvat
the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, at Bolfcherezk, Nifliney-Kajtit-
ichatka and TigiHk.

The number of all the RufTians fettled atprefent (1803) on the coaft
of America is cilimated at 700.

The company have cftablifiied at St. Paul, irv the ifland of Kadyak a
fchool and library, which already contains more than a thoufand volumes
in hirtory, geography, and alfo nautical books with charts. A confi.
derable addition was fent out with Admiral Knuenttern, who went to
Japan. The company have alfo undertaken to propagate the ChriiHan
religion in thefe diltant parts ; and to open new fources for tradt 1^- f^a
with China and Japan ;. alfo to introduce among the natives agriculturp
and the breeding of cattle.

It appears by a (Ihtcment publidied in 1805 that on making up the rx-
counts to t!ie year 1804, it was found that the clear profit fur llic years
1802 and 1803, oneachiharc, was about 156 rubles *.

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

CHAPTER I.

illSTOniCAL CEOGItAPIiY.

jt^'times. — Liitnit. — Divijions. — Boundaries. — Or'tgltml Population, —
Pro^rejjlve Geography. — Prefent Boundaries.— Htftorical Epoch and,
j'lnt'.quille.t. , • ■ ,

''I'^llE dominions fubjeft to the houfc of Auflria embrace many ancient
\. knigdoms and Uates, which, for the fake of perfpicuity, are here
"rought uiidi r one point of view ; it having been urged as a reproach to
modern g^'ographv, that by the obllinate retention of antiquated divi.
t'lons, and the coiifufed nuDiitont^fs of fcparatc dcCcriptions, it has not
made an uniform progrefs with modern hiftorj', and politics, which it
ftijghttoilluftratc. llfii:v, to ufe the prefent inllance, many arc led to
iaiagine that the po\wr of the houfe of Auftria is chiefly founded on its
bearing the imperial titV, whereas, if feducedto the re^al ftyle of Hun-
gary, its he.vdifury domains entitle it to rank among the chief European I
powers, being of wide extent and great importance^ and boafUng a popu-

• T^nN'nnfJn llanJ*! lanJwirilifliafiliL'ke Kultur und ProduAo Ton W, C. Friebc. Pjtcif-

lurj, X'l'i'f ^«tt.

htioo

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS. i6j

latioH of not lefs than 20,000,000, more concentrated than the dinufe
population of Ruflia, and perhapo the next power to France, not in arma
only» but on the broad and deep-rooted balls of compa£l numbers of in-
habitants. ^ , _
In defcribing a fovereignty, thus corapofed of many ancient dates, it
n,av feem proper to pay the firft and chief attention to that part which
nadually fpread its domination over the reft. Or in other words, that
which was the earlieft important inheritance of the ruling family. The
remaining provinces will of courfe be coniidered in proportion to their
real and lading importance ; while the more minute diftrifts may be
abandoned to the fedulous care and microfcopie labour of the topogra-
pher. On this plan the provinces that will here require particular obfer-
vation are the archduchy of Auftria ; the kingdoms of Hungary, and
Bohemia ; the grand-duchy of Tranfylvania, winch, with the Buckovina,
may be regarded as belonging to Hungary } the dominion towards the
Adriatic, with the acquifitions of Venice aod Dalmatia ; and lallly, that
part of Poland which has fallen under the Auftrian fceptre.

Names.] The archduchy of Auftria may be confidcred as belonging,
in part, to ancient Pannonia, the'Vindobona of the Romans being the
modern Vienna. But that'half of Auftria, which lies north of the Danube,
was occupied by the Quadi, a barbaric nation, who anciently iirfefted the
adjoining provinces o? Pannonia and Noricum ; for the weftcrn part of
Auftria on the S. of the Danube falls under the latter ancient appella-
tion. The German name and divifion of Ofterich*, or the eaftern
kingdom, foftened into Auftria by the Italian and French enunciation,
arofe after Charlemagne had eftablifhed the weftern empire, being a rem-
nant of the fovereignty of what was call^ Eaftern France, eftabliftied
by that conqueror. It was alfo ftyled Marchia Orientalise the eaftern
march, or boundary : and, after the failure of the Francic line, became a
narquifate, feudatory to the dukes of Bavaria, till the emperor Frederic
Barbarofa, in 1156, conftituted it a duchy, held immediately of the em-
pire f. Hungary, a part of which belonged to ancient Dacia^ derives
its modern appellation from the Ugurs, a njition now known to have been
of Finnifli origin, who, after fpreading devaftation through a great part of
Germany, fixed their rdidence here in the tenth century. In the time of
Chailcmagne it was pofTeired by the Avars, a Slavonic people if. The
Huni^arians ftyle themfelves Magiar ; and their language approaches to
the Finnic dialed. Bohemia, or the habitation of the Boii, was'a central
province of Barbaric Germany, afterwards feized by a Slavonic tribe,
whofc chiefs were originally Icyled dukes of buhomia. Tranfylvania
and the Buckovina, are parts of the province of D^cia, founded by
Trajan. The former is by the Hungarians called Erdeli ; by the Ger-
mans Sioben-burgen, or the Seven Towns, from a colony there eftablifhed ;
the more common name feemt derived from the woody pafles of the
Carpathian mountains, and was impofed by the monkifti writers.
Venice, as is well known, derives its appellation from the ancient Veneti
of theoppofite ftiorc. The origin of the other names becomes difficult,
inexatt proportion to their unimportance ; and is more fit for the invefti-
gationof the antiquary than for the prefent defign.
Extent.] From the frontiers of Swifteriand, to the utmoft limits of

• Sfvfral of »hc Gcrmnn nitnes of Auflriao pfjvincfii differ confidfralj^jr fi-oro our
sppplhtinns : Tarinihia is Carnim ; L'arniuia, Kruin ; Stirit, Sleymi'iark ; Cri>«ti«, Cra'
klu'i ; Bohemia, Boehmtn ; Moravi«, Mahren. Otliu,gr UalUzta, is wj^onj^iy (lylcJ Galicia.

fD'Auville, £tau tunu<4 «n furjpc, p. »). X Qi^l^on, x. iU4.

M 2

Tranfylvania,

.n:

164

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

Tranfylvania, the length of the Auftrian dominions may be about •jSa
Britifh miles ; the breadth about 520, from the river Bug, which forms
a boundary between Auftria and Pruffian Poland, to the Save, which di.
vides the Auftrian from the Turkifli fovereignty. The acquifition of
Venetian Dalmatia may probably foon be followed by the junftion of
thofe Turkifli provinces, which divide that province from the Auftrian
domain. The fquare contents may be about 1 84,000 miles. Boetticher
eftimates the inhabitants at 108 to a fquare mile ; but fmce he wrote, the
Netherlands^ a populous region, feem to be withdrawn from thehoufeof
Auftria.

Towards the eaft, the Auftrian dominions border on thofe of Ruffia
arid Turkey, and to the north on thofe of Pruflia, Upper Saxony, Ba-
varia, and Swabia. On the utmoft weft, are SwiiFerland and the Italian
ftates.

The ftate of the Auftrian dominions has been confiderably changed by
recent events. Venice has become a part of the kingdom of Italy ; and
the blindnefs of Auftria towards this venerable republic may be regarded
as abfolute infatuation. Tyrol has become afligned to the cleftor, now
king, of Bavaria, who alfo (hares with the new king of Wirtemberg the
the Auftrian pofleflions in Swabia. Such are the moft effential terms of
the treaty of Prelburg, 26 December 1805. The counties of Salz-
burg and Berchtolfgaden are incorporated with the empire of Auftria.
By this remarkable treaty the Auftrian emperor,

*' Cedes and abandons to his Majetty the king of Bavaria the Margra-
viate of Burgau and its dependencies ; the principaHty of Eichftadt ; the
part of the territory of Paflau, belonging to the eleftor of Salzburg, and
fituated between Bohemia, Auftria, the Danube, and the Inn; the country
of Tyrol, comprehending therein the principalities of Brixen and Botzen,
tiac feven lord/hips of the Voralberg, with their detached dependencies ;
the county of Hohenems, the county of Konigfegg, Rottenfels, the lord-
(hips of Tetnany and Argen, and the town and territory of Lindau.

«* To his Majefty the king o^ Wirtemberg, the five cities of the Da-
nube, to wit, Chingen, Munderkengen, Rufflingen, Menzen, and Sal-
gaw, with their dependencies, the city of Conftance excepted ; that part
of the Brifgaw which extends in the poflefllon of Wirtemberg, and fitu-
ated to the eaft of a line drawn from Schlegelburg to Molbach, and tiie
towns and territories of Willengen and Brentengen. To his moft
ferene highnefsthe eleftor of Baden, the Brifgaw (with the exception of
the branch and feparate portions above defcribed), the Ortenfaw and
their dependencies, the city of Conftance, and the commandery of
Meinau*."

It has been aflerted that Auftria was to be partly indemnified for thefe

important ceffions by the acquifition of Bofnia and Servia from the Turks;

but as the French have fci/ed on Cattaro, and the Dalmatian territories

' of the former republic of Venice, it may be doubted whether her policy

would permit th^ increafe of the power of Auftria in that quarter.

Original population.] The original population of thefe extenfive
regions is various, but chiefly Gothic and Slavonic. The native ancient
Germans, a Gothic race, form the ruling, moft induftrious, and moft
important part of the inhabitants. Bohemia and Moravia were originally
Slavonic kingdoms ; and the people of Poland »nd l^l- ngary may be gene-
rally referred to the fame origin. The Venetians, and adjacent Italians,

* Urceiii difiifters have nrcafioncd yet furthrr ceiTiuns ; but the power of Auflria feems
fyniPHkat coiifolidatcd liy tlic niarriujjr of J\;ijio'»<)n with the AuHrian |>riiiicfi.

ig may

AUSTRIAN DOlvJINIONS.

165

«jy be confidered as genuine defcendants of the Cifalpine Gauls, and of
.]^ Roman colonies enabliihed among them. In ancient defcent, no ge-
nealogy can vie with that of feveral Venetian families, which can be traced
by hiftory and record to the eighth century.

Progressive geography. ] The progreffive geography pf the foutherp
part of the Auftrian dominions commences at an early period. Yet the
Adriatic was not a favourite fea of the Greeks ; and the Roman writers
^w the firft fteady light upon thefe regions. Faffing from Cifalpine
Gaul» in defiance of the barriers of the Rhaetian, and Carnic, or Julian
Alps, now the mountains of Tyrol, Carinthia, and Carniola, the Roman
jenerals fubdued many barbarous tribes ; and founded the provinces of
loricum and Pannonia, their moft northern acquifitions in this quarter,
till Trajan added Dacia. The Rhaetians were fubdued by Drufus, in the
feign or Auguftus, under whofe fway, or rather in the time of his fuc-
celor Tiberius, Pannonia and Noricum alfo became provinces of the
Roman empire. : Concerning thofe regions, much information may be
derived from the luminous page of Tacitus ; and, foon after, the geogra-
phy of Ptolemy opens additional illuilrations. The common refources
of ancient geography are continued by the Byzantine writers ; and, after
the age of Charlemagne^ by many hiftorians of the weft. Since the in-
vention of printing to the prefent period, the geography of thefe extenfive
provinces has been gradually improved, though not with the rapidity which
might have been expefted, as they unfortunately have not produced many
men of acute, genius, extenfive learning, or exaft fcience ; and the belt
accounts are derived from writers in the N. of Germany, and froih foreign
travellers.

Historical EPOCHS.] The hillorical epochs of various kingdoms and
dates, recently united under one fovcreignty, mult of courfe be fubdivided
into their original diftin6l portion8,beginning in the order above-mentioned,
with the lirft important ftate, around which, as a nucleus, the others are
conglomerated ; but proceeding thcilce 10 the other provinces, according
to their modern extent and importance.

1. The houfe of Auilria, which, by fucceffive fortunate marritges fince
the fifteenth century, has arifen to fuch a fummit of power, is well
known to have fprung from the humble counts of Haplburg. Thofe
lords pofTefled a fmall territory in Swiflcrland, in the northern corner of
the canton of Berne. On a lofty enynence, crowned with beech, ftands
anancient tower, the firll feat of the houfe of Auilria. In 1 273 Rodolph
of Haplburg was called to the Imperial throne, being at t)iis time lord
ofthegieatc?r part of Swifferland, by the extinction of tho powerful houfc
ofZaeringcn, and that of the counts of Kyburg, whofe joint inheritancr
devolving to Rodolph, became the bafis of hi ; power, and that of his
fuccelTors *. •

2. Another emperoi of the houfe of Auftria appeared in Albert, A. D.-
1298 ; from whom the Swifs made their lignal revolt in 1307. His fon
Frederic was obliged to yield the empire to I,i)iii-;of Bavaria.

3. Albert [1. duke of Auilria, A D. 1438, luccocded to three crowns,
on the death of his father-in-law the emperor Sigiimond ; tiiofe of Hun-
gary and Bohemia by inheritance, and that of tlii> empire bv unanimoui-
eleftion.

4. Maximilian having married the heircfs uf Burgundy, the Netherlands
became fubjeA to the houfe of Auilria in 1477 ; and his Ion Philip, in
1496, inarrving the heircfs of Arragon and raHillo.. tlu io\[)),- d.muuioqs

IMinua'-; Swiff, i. i;o.

M ^

i66

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

of Spain fell afterwards under the Auftrian fceptre. Charles V. inherit a

Jill thefe do'*'"''"* ' KnI-. nn Vila r»«fiirnatir«n. Rnain nnA *t,_ XT .• . **

devolved to
to Ferdinai
Germany.

5. The noted bigotry of the houfe of Auilria was not coniined to th
Spanilh branch ; for though Maximilian II., about 1570, had grant 'd
liberty of confcience even to the proteftants of AuRria, yet thofe f
Bohemia, and other parts, were afterwards fo much oppreffod, that th
proteftant princes of Germany called in Guftaf Adolf, the celebrated
Swedifli monarch, to their alTiilance, who (hook the empire to its vcr
foundations. Even France fupported the proteftants, in the view of
weakening the Auftrian power ; and the war continued till 1648 v^lir
the famous treaty of Weftphalia was figned, whicli has ferved as a bali
for other diplomatic tran factions.

6. The war with France was often rekindled during the long rcicrn of
Leopold 1. 1658, to 1705 ; and in 1683 the Turks were fo fuccelsiul as
to lay fiege to Vieftna.

7. His fon, Jofeph, I. joined the allies againfl France, and fl.ared in
their fuccefs. He married the daughter of Jolin Frederic, duke of
planover.

8. Bythe death of tlic emperor Charles Vl.onthcaoth October, 1-40
without male ifTuc, the houfij of AuHria became extind. The elector
«f Bavaria feized the kingdom of Bohemia, and was cledled emperor in
J 742, but died in 1745.

9. Francis of Lo>rain, fon of Leopold, duke»f Lorrain, having mar-
ried Maria Therefa, daughter of the emperor Charles VI. fucceetitdto
the Autlriaa dominions, which continue to be held by his defcendaiits
In 1745 he waseledled emperor, and his fucccffors have enjoyed the ir.i.
perial crown as if hereditary.

10. The reign of the emperor Jofeph II. a beneficent, but impetuous
prince, whofe grand defigns of reformation were fruftratcd by his ignorance
of the inveteracy of habits and prejudices, which niuft ever be confidered
in a due eftimate of human adairs.

IT. The obdurate and fanguinary contcfl with France, the events of
which are known to all.

Having thus briefly marked the chief epochs of the Auftrian power,
the events of the fubieft kingdoms and ftates muft be as much com.
prcffed as poffiblc. 1 he next in importance are thofe of the kingdom of
Hungary.

1. The Roman province of Dacia. The conqueft by the Huns ; and
afterwards by the Avars, and other Slavonic tribes.'

2. The conqueft by the Ogurs, or the Magiars, uho continued under
dukes from their Brll f^ttlement in 884.

3. St. Stephen, king of Hungary, A.D. 1000. The crown is partly
dedive and partly hereditary ; and among the chief hiftorical events are
the wars in Dalmatia againft the Venetians.

4. Louis 1. furnamcd the Great, A.D. 1342, fubducs a great part ofj
DaJmatia, "and carries his arms into Italy. He was fucceeded by hi)
daughter Mary, who was ftylcd Kittgof Hungary; but dying 1302, the
/ucceflion became controverted, and at laft terminated in the eledtion of|
Sigifmondf marquis of Brandenburg, who had wedded Mary the heirefs.
In 141 1 he was chofen emperor of Germany.

5. Albert of Auilria having wedded Ekzabeth the heirefs of Sigii<
mondi wa9} with her, crownc4 king and queen of Hungary, 1438 : ai

cveai

event v
garian 1
is alfo '
a^aiii'l
the kbi
6.0,
Auilria,
is procla
Rakos,
iiates, ai
prince w,
rous, tiu
/oiiiided i
Greek ar
7. Aft
of Hung
Ills reijf n
liis being
Hungary
iinceconti
Tlie gr
gary till
and Ferdii
Hate. St(
I'fih tlial
after whici
m{\ dill in
garian ;ind
and died in
the lecond
1694, fincf
do.'niiiions.
The hill
tcntion.

I. Inth
by chief,;,
I'mbraced
iiibdiied till
2. Vratil
emperor Hj
do.-nains of I
jiiid the cor
and his imil
caiife of tiJ
3. One o|
who afccnc
provinces
'n'fufedthel
of Hap/bul

4. The
I «'ho had ml
'ilain at th/
I ion and fuel
5- In tl[
I Mil Hufd

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

167

-,ppt which forms the earliell bafis of the Auftrlan claim to the Hun-
rtjrian monarchy. Upon the death of Albert, Ladiflas, king of Poland,
fc alfo chofen king of Hungary, but pcriflies in the battle of Werua,,
ajainft the Turks. The famous John Hunni&des is appointed regent -of
the kingdom.

6. On the death of another'Ladiflas, the poUhumous foo of Albert of
Aullria* i" ''457* *^^ celebrated Mathias Corvinus, fon of Hunniades,
jj proclaimed king of Hungary by the dates, affembled in the plain of
Kakos» near Peft. In 1485 Ke feized Vienna, and the other /

man

jjjtes, and retained them till his death in 1490. Mathias was the g. .ateli
prince who had ever held the Hungarian fceptre ; brave, prudent, gene-
rous, the friend of arts and letters, and a man of letters himfelf. He
fiiuiided a magnificent library at Buda, and furnifhed it with the bell
(}rcek and Latin books, and many valuable maniifcripts.

7, After repeated contefts, the houfe of Auftria again fills the throne
of Hungary, ia the perfon of Ferdinand, 1527, but towards the end of
his reign the Turks feized on the greater part of this kingdom. On
his being chofen emperor of Germarty, Ferdinand retained the crown of
Hungary till 1567, when he refigned it to his fon Maximilian ; and it has
fince continued a conftant appanage of the houfe of Auftria.

Tlie grand-duchy of Tranfykania was confidered as a part of Hun-
ffary till *540» when, in coiifequence of a treaty between the Vaivod
jjid' Ferdinand of Auilria, Tranfylvania began to be regarded as a dillinCl
itate. Stephen Battori having been eleAed prince of Tranfylvania in
,.-jl, that family continued to hold this petty fovereignty till i6c2,
jjter which it continued fubjeft to feveral eleftive princes, of whom the
moil diiUnguifhed was Bethlera Gabor, or Gabriel Betlem, a noble Huu-
rtrian and a Calvinill, who conquered a great part of Hungary in 161 9,
aiiJdied in 1 629. The lull prince of Tranfylvania was Michael Abalii,
the Iccond of that name, who yielded the fovereignty to the emperor ii^
1694, iinco which period this country has formed a part of the Auitrian
Jomiiiions.

Tlie hiltorical epocli* of the kingdom of Bohemia deferve more at-
tention.

1. In the feventh century, the Slavons, feizing on Bohemia, were ruled
bvcliicfi, or dukes, feemingly hereditary, at leail after Borzivoi, who
embraced Chriitianity in the year 8<;4. In the eleventh century Bretillus
lubd'.ied the little adjacent kingdom of Moravia.

2. Vratillas, duke of Bohemia, is honoured with the regal title by the
emperor Henry IV. in 10S6 ; who at the fame time invelled him with the
aoimm of Lufutia, Moravia, apd Sile;lia. But this dignity was perfonal,
and tlieconflant title of king only dates from Premiflaa II. in 1 199. He
and his immediate fucceffors are ftyled Ottocari, from their zeal in the
caiife of tlie emperor Otto.

3. One of the moll renowned monarchs was another Premiflas Ottocar,
who afcended the throne in 1252, feized Auttria and Stiria, and other
provinces to tho fouth, and carried his armrf into Pruffia. In 1271 he
ri'fufed the imperial crown, which was afterwards given to Rodolph count
of Hapfburg.

4. The ancient lineage having failed, John, count of Luxembourg,
who had married a daughter of Bohemia, became king in I jio, and was
ilaiu at the battle of Creci, fighting againtl the Englifti in 1346. His
[oil and fucceifor, Charles, was alfo emperor of Germany.

5. In tlie reign of Wencellaa VI. king of Bohemia, and emperor,
I John Hufs^ having read the books of WiwklifTe; the Kuglilh reformer.

M 4

introduced

1 68

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

introduced his doArines into Bohemia. He was condemned to I,
flames in 1415. The Bohemians and Moravians have fmce bee "^
remarkable for various fefts of religion, and confequent inteftine c^^
motions. The Huflites under Ziifka, repeatedly defeated the tro°*""
of their king Sigifmondj brother of Wenceflas, and alfo empero '^f
Germany.

6. Albert of Auftria, having wedded the daughter of Sigifmond
ceivcd the crowns of Bohemia and Hungary. Put the fucceflion'w^
afterwards controverted and infringed by George Podiehrad, (a HiilTt^
chief, 'who obtained from the wealcnefs of the emperor Frederic ITT f
thehoufe of Auftria, the crown of Bohemia in 1459,) by Vladiflas f
of the Pohfli monarch, and by Mathias king of Hungary. ' "

7. Louis, fon of Vladiflas, fucceeded his father in the kingdoms of
Bohemia and Hungary; but being flain at the battle of Mohatz, iP2fi
the crown finally pafled to the houTe of Auftria. '

Antiquities.] The ancient monuments of the more northern king-
doms and provinces belonging to Auftria cannot be expefted to be venr
numerous or important- Vindobona, and the adjacent parts of Noricum
and Pannonia, occafionally difplay Roman remains ; but the ruins of
the celebrated bridge of Trajan, over the Danube, belong to Turkcv
in Europe, being fituated not tar from Widin, in Bulgaria, it is fnppofcd
to have confiftedof twenty arches, or rather vaft piers of ftone, originallv
fupporting a wooden fabrick of the length of more than 3,300 Endilh
feet. In Hungary, and other parts of the ancient province of Dacia
appear many refics of Roman power, as military ro.u's, ruins, &c. and an
elegant hiftorian remarks, " that if we except Bo'iemia, Moravia, the
northern fkirts of Auftria, and a part of Hungas-y between the Tevfs
and the Danube, all the other dominions of the houfe of Auftria were
fituate within the limits of the Roman empire *. Hungary, and tht
other provinces of the Auftrian dominions, having been frequently ex.
pofed to the ravages of war, many ancient monuments have perifhed ; yet
feveral caftles, churches, and monafteries ftill atteft the magnificence of i
the founders f . The cathedral church of St. Stephen, in Vienna, is «
Gothic fabric of fmgular pomp and irinute decoration.

CHAPTER II.

POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

ReRgton. — EccleftqP'tcal Geography. — Government. — Laws. — Popu/alion.—
Colonies. '-jlrmy. — Navy, — Revenues. — PoMcal Importance and Rtk.
t'tons,

R .T ,r.inv T T'HE preponderant religion of the Auftrian dominions i
K.ELIG10N. J j^ jg ^jjg Roman Catholic, but attended with" a confi.
derable degree of toleration. Proteftants of various fefts are found in I
Bohemia and Moravia ; nor are Lutherans unknown at Vienna, though
they cliiefly abound in Tranfylvania \ ; nay in Hungary it is believed that I
the proteftants are equal in number to the cathohcs^. Vienna did not!
become a metropolitan fee till the year 1722 : the archbiftiop is a prince of!
the holy Roman empire.

* Gihhon, vol. i. p. 23.
J "Bufching, vi. hAO.

t Dr. Brown's Trav. part. ii. p. so.
§ Townfon, 181,

Govern-] I

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

Government.] The form of government is an heredk: vonarchy,
^j approaching to abfolute power. For though Hungi- retain its
ancient ftates, or rather an ariftoGfatical fenate, yet the domi tons h .mg
fo various and extenlive, and the military force wholly in the \ ds ( r the
fovereign. no diftin£i kingdom or ftate can withftand his \ *1. Even
A yitiia has its ttates, confining of four orders, clergy, peer knights,
L„rj/elTes ; the affembly for Lower Auftria being held at Vienna, and
that of the upper at Linz *. But thofe local conftitutions can little
avail againft the will of a powerful monarch, fupported by a numerous

ariny«

Laws.] The laws vary according to the different provinces, almoit
every ftate having its peculiar code. The Hungarians in particular have
virroroudy defended their ancient laws, though in many inftances illaud-
able, the peafantry being in a ilate of villanage till 1785 f. In 1786
loieph II> after fupprefling villanage in Bohemia and Moravia, extended
jjie like freedom to Hungary : and this decree re;nains uncancelled,
though many of the laws of that well-meaning but injudicious monarch
expired with their author. Yet the boafted freedom of Hungary is ra-
ther that of a powerful ariftocracy, than of the people at large. In ge-
neral the laws may be regarded as mild and falutary ; and the Aultrians
in particular are a well regulated and contented people, while the Hunga-
rians are often diiTatisBed, and retain much of their ancient animolity
againft the Germans.

PoPULATiox.] The general population of the Auftrian dominions is
computed at about 22,000,000 ; that of Hungary, Tranfylvania, and
the Buckovina, being eilimated at 7,880,000.

Of the other chief provinces, Bohemia is fuppofed to hold 2,806,000 ;
and Moravia, 1,256,000. The whole acquifitions in Poland contain
2,yQ7,ooo ; while the archduchy of Auftria is computed at 1,820,000!.

AnMY.] The army is computed by Boetticher at 365,454 men, m
136 regiments, of which 46 are Germans, and only 11 Hungarian. This
numerous army has been greatly diminiflied in the fanguinary conteft with
France ; and perhaps could not at prefent equal that of Pruflia, com-
puted at 200,000 ; and far lefs that of the great military power of Ruflia,
doubling that number.

Navy.] An Auftrian ftiip of the line would be regarded as a novelty
on the ocean.

Revenue.] The revenue is computed at more than io,ooo,oool. fter-
ting, to which Auftria contributes about ^,ooo,oool.i and Hungary a
little more than a million and a half. This revenue ufed to exceed the
expences ; but the public debt now, probably, furpaffes 40,000,000!.
Iterling, and the recent wars have occafioned great defalcations.

Political importance and relations.] Vaft are the political im-
portance and extent of the relations of the Auftrian fovereignty. Set-
ting aiide the confideration of this influence, as emperor, over the German
Hates, the monarch may be regarded as an equal rival of France, and only
inferior to the preponderance of Ruflia. Since the Auftrian dominions
and power have been fwelled to their modern confequence, a determined
rivalry has exiftcd between them and France, which has, with reafon,
been jealous of the Auftrian ambition. England being alfo the rival of
France, it has frequently become an unavoidable policy to maintain this
diffcnlion. There are alfo caufes of con Armed jealoufy between Auftria '

* Bufching, vi. 536. laft French edition .
I Hoeck, Aper9u Staiiflique. PnrLi, 1801.

t Townfon, 103. 107 •

and

1 70

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

and ftruflia ; and it is doubtful if even an inTafion from Ruflia woulS
cuinpelthein to unite in a defc.jlive alliance. The inveterate wars with
Turkeyi and the radical difference of religion and manners, more im
preflive from vicinity, have alio fown irreconcilable hatred between the
Auftrianii and Turks ; and the ambition of Aullria eagerly confpire.
with RufTia againft European Turkey. Amidll fo many enmities, and
the iieceflary jealoufy of Rufiian power, it would be difficult to point out
any date on the continent with which Auftria could enter into aftridt and
lalling alliartce. The mofl natural and conftant may be that with England
whofe maritime power might inflid deep wounds upon any enemy ; but
agaiuil Ruilia an alliance with Pruilia woidd be indirpetiilble.

CHAPTER III.

CIVIL GEOCKAPHY.

Manners

lers and Cujloms. — Language' — Literature, — Educatlcn . — UniverJltKs^
—Cities and Towns. —Edifices, — ManufaQurcs and Commerce.

»*. . ^ T ^ TARIOUS are the manners and cuf

Manners ANb CUSTOMS.] V . r »u i- j"""^"'-

-" V toms o: the numerous kin;Tdoir.s and

provinces fubjeft to the houfc of Auftria. Vienna, the capital, prefcnts

as it were an affemblage of nations, in their various dreni's.- In Aultria

Proper the people are much at their eafe : and the farmers, and even

peafantry, little inferior to thofe of England. Travellers have remarked

the abundance of provifions at Vienna, -and the confcquen^ daily luxury

of food, accompanied with great variety of wines. The Auftrianinan.

ners are cold, but civil ; the women elegant, but devoid of mental ac

complifhments. The youth of rank are commonly ignorant, and of

courfe haughty, being entire flrangers to the cultivation of mind, and

condefcenfion of manners, to be found among the fuperior ranks of feme

other countries, a circumilance more linking to the Englijh traveller in

particular from the violence of the contrail. An Auftrian nobl«man, or

gentleman is never feen to read, and hence polite literature is almoll un-

Known and uncultivated. In confequence of this ignorance the language

remains unpolifhed ; and the Aullrian fpeech is one of the meanell dia-

leAs of the German, fo that polite people areconllraiiied to ufe French.

The lower orders are, however, little addided to crimes or vices, and

puuinimcnts rare: robberies are-feldom committed, and murder little

known. When capital punifliment becomes unavoidable, it is adminif.

tered with great folemnity, and accompanied with public prayers, au

example worthy of univcrlal imitation.

The next people in eltimation, and the firfl in numbers, arc the Hun.
garians. Their manners arc now conliderably tinctured by thofe of the
ruling Germans, but they remain a fpirited people, and ailed to defpiic
their mailers. Their drefs is well known to be peculiar, and is copied
by our liuflars *. This drefs, confilling of a tight veil, mantle, and
fnrred cap, is graceful; and the wliilkcrs add a military ferocity to the
appearance.

jLanguaoe.] Th3 languages fpoken in thefe aggregated dominions
are numerous and difcrepant. They belong chiefly to three grand divi-

» In the ITiinrimtJin, IIul':ar implies the twentieth, becaufe twenty peafants are
obliged to furoilli uut. Lorr.niu: lo Uk cavulr^-. Bukh, iil. 16,

owers, anc

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

ITl

', is thi.' Gothic or German of the rulinj; nation, the Slavonic of iha

)! 'e' % p^'"'^ "f ^'^^' Hungarians, the Dalmatians, Sec. and alio the.in-

Cit fijcfch ufed in Bohemia and Moravia ; and lallly tin,' Hiingaviiui

liuer, which has hocu conlidered as a branch of the i'lunii:. The Ita-

f ,1 of courfe prevails in the Hates of Italy that are fuUjocl to Aiillria ;

ndthe Tyrolefe, &c. ufe a mixture of Italian and Gcrnian. Amotij;

pie of rank at Vienna the French was formerly prcvaliMit, as already
^i,i,tjuiied ; but this fafliion is .perhaps impaired by recent events, and
u ufe of the polilhed German of Saxony would not only be more ap-
' priate, but might tend to diffufe a national talle and native literature.
Rielbeck obfcrves that in Suabia, Bavaria, and Aiillria, the German i»
very impure.

LiTKiiATURK."] Exclufive of the Italian provinces, the literary hil-
.jryof the Auftrian dominions cannot afcend to a remote period. That
yf Aullria Proper, in particular, is little interelling, and even tlie chrt»-
nicles and hves of faints are comparatively recent. If tlie emperor Maxi-
milian, grandfather of Charles V., be the author of an eccentric poeni
alluding to the events of his own life, and jifually afcribed to him, though
pny aflign it to his chaplain, he may be confidered as the father of
•\ultrian literature, as well as of Aultrian greatnefs. But tha fuccct-
]i,),i of authors is interrupted ; and many of thofe who flourifhed at
Vienna were aliens. In the medical branch. Van Swieteu, Storck, and
fltlit'raJjave acquired deferved celebrity.

jjoliemia and Hitngary have no ancient claims to literature. Cofmas
of Prague, a venerable hiilorian, flourifhed about the year 1130; and
Hungary has a contemporary father of hillory in the anonymous no-
tary of king Bela f . The encouragement giren to writers by the cele-
brated Mathias Corvinus little ftimulated native literature. Nor is there
any Hungarian writer particularly celebrated among the modern Latin
dallies ; nor is the native language yet known by any work commanding
celebrity. Baron du Born, a native of Tranfylvania, has written many
iblc works in natural hillory ; but he ufed the Latin and French lan-
guages. An enquiry into the caufes which have retarded the progrefs of
letters and philolophy in the Auftriait dominions, would be more ufeful
tlian the bare enumeration of a few names j they would be found to arife
partly from the coarfenefs of the German dialed, and the ab fence of the
Slavonic and Hungarian from the learned languages of Europe ; partly
from numerous wars of ambition, which fometimes endanger the very
txillence of the (late ; in yet greater meafure from the military education
of the nobility, or rather indeed from their ignorance, for many confum-
Diate officers have been men of letters ; but above all, this defeft niuft be
ifcribed to that metaphyfical bigotry which perverts their rational
powers, and blights every bud of genius and folid knowledge. The
books prohibited at Vienna probably exceed in number thofe of the
Index Expurgatorius ; and thoi gh the government have no doubt a
right to watch over thofe of a political tendency, yet this jealoufy needs
not be extended to works of mer* fcience, written by heretics.

Education.] The emprefs Therefa inftituted fchools for the educa-
tion of children, but none for die cducatk}n of teachers. Hence the
children are taught metaphyfics before they know I^atin ; and a blind
veneration for the monks forms one cf the firft exertions of nafcent rcafon.

* Nor Is it difufed in Bohemia, which maybe regarded as the extreme weftcrn limit of
t)ie Slavonic tott^ue ; for ihe people vMemi to tuc mouth of the Elbe.
t Katojia, Hlft. Crit. Ilun^r. i'rolejj. .

'It

173

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

• Yet the example is highly laudable, and with all its difadvantaffes m
lead to important confequences. ' ^^

Universities.] The univerfities, like thofe in other Catholic cou

tries, little promote the progrefs of folid knowledge. The fcien "'

taught with the greateft care are precifely thofe which are of the fmall ft

utility. The univerfity of Vienna has, fince the year 1752, been fome

what improved. It was founded in 1237, and that of Prague in 114^.7 '.

that of Infpruck only daces from 1677, ^"^ Gratz trom 1585 ♦. jjL'

gary chiefly boafts of Buda, though the Jefvits inftituted academies at

Raab and Cafchau. A late traveller f informs us that the univerfity of

Buda, by the Germans called Offen, poflefles an income of about

20,oool. fterling, only 4000 of which are applied to pay the falaries of

the profeflbrs. " Befides the ufual chairs, which exift in every univerfity

there are thofe of natural hiftory, botany, and economy. The coUeftion

of inftruraents for natural philofophy, and the models of machines are

good ; and the mufeum of natural hiltory, which contains the colleftion

of the late profefTor Filler, befides that of the univerfity, may be ranked

among the fine coUeftions of Europe." There is a Calvinill college or

univerfity at Debretzin : and the bifhop of Erlau has recently eftablifhed

a fpfendid univerfity at that city J.

Cities A\D towns. ] Vienna, the chiefcity of the Auftrian dominions
lies on the S. or rather W. fide of the Danube, in a fertile plain yvatered
by a branch of that river, (beyond which (lands the fuburb of Leopold.
ftadt,) and by the little river Wien. The Danube is here very wide
and contains feveral woody ifies : the country towards the N. and £. ji
level, but on the S. and W. hilly, and variegated with trees. It is
founded on the fcite of the ancient Vindobona ; but was of Uttle note till
the twelfth century, when it became the refidence of the dukes of
Auftria, and was fortified in the manner of that age. The manufac-
tures are little remarkable, though fome inland commerce be tranfaded
on the noble ftream of the Danube. The number of inhabitants is
computed at 254,000. The fuburbs are far more extenfive than the
city, {landing at a confiderable diftance from the walls. The houfes are
generally of orick covered with llucco, in a more durable manner than
commonly pradlifed in England ; the fined fand being chofen, and the
lime, after having been flacked, remaining for a twelvemonth, covered
with fand and boards, before it be applied to the intended ufe. The
chief edifices are the metropolitan church of St. Stephen, the imperial
palace, library, and arfenal, the houfe of aflembly for the ilates of Lower
Auftria, the council-houfe, the univerfity, and fome tnonafteries. The
prater, or imperial park, is an ifland in the Danube well planted with
wood ; and to the fuuth is the chapel of Herenhartz, which during Lent is
much frequented for the fake of amufement, as well as of devotion. Pro-
vifions of all kinds abound in Vienna, particularly wild boars, vcnifon,
and game ; many fmall birds rejeded by us being included among the
latter. Livers of gcefe are efteemed a peculiar delicacy ; nor are tor.
toifes, frogs, and fnuils rejected ||. The people delight m the combats
of wild beails, and of bulls. In one ot ihe fuburbs is the palace of
Belvidere, which formerly belonged to Prince Eugene : and at the dif*

• Duffffnoy, MrthcMie (ivog. iii. 27). f 'rownfon, p. 79.

II Ritdx'ik, liinift-lf • rprnian, binmri (lie Auflrian^, i. 7'>i7 , (o. gluttony, ind 1
rerlim inrtefrril)«lp|p roarfi- pride. Yet he lii^ltiy praifr* the fcliooU, ]>. J ho. TIic
rirheA riil>j'-<ft liv liis arceunt was Prinre LU-li(fiilieiii, who had aliuui (ju,00ul. flctlingii
year, whim Efterha/y only eiyoyed 60, Ocol.

tance

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

i7i

of a few miles ftands Schonbrun, another imperial palace. Though

be much expofed to the northern and eaftern winds, yet the

n hills Terve as a fence againit the rain, and the traveller rather

iaiiis of dud tljan of moifture. The pleafantnefs of the environs in

tance

Vienna

fouthei-

'" eral is improved by the happy afpeft of the Auftrian peafantry.

^ The honour of the fecond city in the Auftrian dominions mutl be

laimed by Prague, the pppulation being eftimated at 80,000. This

etropolis of Bohemia ftands on both fides of the river Mulda, over

hich there is a noble bridge of ftone, founded in 1357. The fortifica-

1 ns arc of fmall moment ; but the houfes are of ftone, and commonly

tlrce itories in height. This city has had the fatality of being expofed to

frcaiient fieges, commonly fortunate to the aggreflbrs. About a fixth

art of the population confifts of Jews.

Next, though at a great diftance, ftands Gratz, the capital of Stiria,
fuDpoled to hold 35,000 fouls. This city ftands on the weft fide of the
river Muehr, joined by a bridge to an extenfive fuburb on the oppofite
bank. There are regular fortifications, and on a bold rock near the
river is placed a ftrong citadel.

Prefburg, the capital of Hungar^^, only contains about 27,000 inha-
bitants, its precedence being of modern date, after Buda the ancient
capital had been repeatedly taken by the Turks. Preft)urg is beautifully
lltuated on the Danube, towards the weftern extremity of Hungary,
being only about 35 Britifti miles to theeaft of Vienna ; but thepolition
IS llill more uncentrical than that of Buda. The Danube is here very
rapid, and about 250 yards in breadth. About one quarter of the inha>
bitants are Lutherans, who are fo opulent as to pay about one half the
taxes. A good theatre, and convenient coifee-houfes contribute to the
pleafure of the inhabitants. Jews alfo abound in this city.

Buda, by the Germans called Offen, the ancient metropolis of Hun>
^v, is now reduced to little more than 20,000 inhabitants ; but if
the city of Pefth be included, which ftands on the oppofite fide of
the Danube, over which there is a bridge of boats, the population may
becomputedat 34,000. The chief publicrand private buildings are in
Peilh, and within the fortrefs : the royal palace in particular is a large
and ibtely'lpdifice. At Buda there are hot fprin^s ; and the people, like
thofe of Vienna, delight in bull fights and exhibitions of wild beafts.
[d 1784 the feat of the provincial government, and the public offices
bting rellored from Preft)urgh to Buda, the latter joined with Pefth may
llill be regarded as the capital of Hungary *. The mining cities of

ISchemnitz and Cremnitz do not exceed 8000 inhabitants eachf ; but
Hermanlladt, the capital of Tranfylvania, is fuppofed to contain 17,000.
It is the chief feat of the Saxon colony, but the air is unhealthy.
The Duckovina, annexed to the Auftrian territory in 1777, contains no

[town of confequeiice.
That part of Poland which was acquired in 1772, and divided into

■ two provinces, called Galitzia and Lodomiria, prefents Lemberg, or

I Leopold of 20,000 inhabitants, and fome other confiderable towns.

JAmong the Polifh acquifitions muft alfo be named Cracow, anciently

iihe capital of that kingdom, and eftimated to contain 24,000 peopla.

iThis city ftands on the Viftula and has a caftlc, but is poorly'

IfortiHed.
Brunn, in Moravia, is computed at 18,000, and Olmutz, in the fame

jcountry, at 12,000 ; and the latter number is alfo afligncd to Troppau,

• Towiifon, p. w.

t Hutck ]}Mt» Crrmiiitz at 4000.

jfiMWliitfiitiMtfiB"

'74

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

in thp Anftrian part of Silefia. In tlie fonthcrn provinrcs Infn , i
and Trent arc fiippofed each to contain 10,000 fouls. Trieftp wvfi
i". reckoned at iS,00Q, deferves more particular attention, liavi'irr v* ."
for a lonff time the only fea-port belonging to Autlria. It is ia\vM'\
im a jTiilph of the Adriatic, and rifes on an afcent which is crowned I
■.i ciifHc. The r.iipj)ing is fecurcd by a wall, extending from the La ^
ivtto to the i(le of Zuka ; and the harbour was declared free by thee ^
profs Thcrefa. The neighbourhood produces excellent wines. ''

EumcKs.] Some towns in the Aufhian part of Italy, find in D-l
matia, rnight here deforve notice, were there not uncertainties conecr "
ing the iluration of their fubjeftion to Aiiitria; The chief public edifice"
arc at Vionn^i, Lnda, and Pellh, to which may now be added Venice-
\>ut there arc many fplendid churches and monaiteries in the feveral
regions of the Aullrian domination. Many of the Hungarian nobility
who have vafl cllates, pofTefs caftles of correfponding magnificence' I
Among thefe the chief are the Palefy, Schaki, Erdoby, Sichy, Forgatlli*
Kohari, Karoly ; but above all Eltcrhazy, whofe caiUe, about a day's
jotinicy from Prelburgh, is faid to rival Verfailles in pomp ; and feetns alfo
to rival that palace in the furrounding defolation, being in a morafTv
country near the Neufidler lake ♦.

Mantkactuiiks and coMMERrK.] Manufafturcs do not feem to be
cultivated to a great extent in any part of the Auftrian dominionj 1
Vienna perhaps equals any of the other cities in manufadures which!
are chiefly of filk, gold and filvcr lace, cloths, ftuflFs, (lockings, linen I
mirrors, porcelain; with fdver plate, and feveral articles in brafs+.I
Fohemia is celebrated for beautiful glafs and paper. But the comJ
mcrce of the Aullrian dominions chiefly depend.-* upon their native opuJ
Uiice ; Aullria Proper and the fouthern provinces producing abundancd
. of horfcs and cattle, corn, flax, faffron, and various wines, with feve!]
ral metalfi, particularly quicklilver from the mines of Idria. Bohemia and
Moravia are alfo rich in oxen and flic^p, corn, flax, ai^d hemp; in whiih
they arc rivalled by the difmon^bered provinces of Poland. The v.iij
and m;irfliy plains of Hungary often prcfent excellent pafturage fWnu^
mcrour. herds of cattle ; and the more favoured parts of that country pr j.
diicc corn, rice, the rich wines of Tokay, and tobacco of an exqiiiii.r
flavour, with great and celebrated mines of various mctnls and minerals]
The Auftrian territories in general are fo abundant in the vat-ioui^ mwlj
farivS and luxuries of life, to be found either in the north or foiu'n)!
£urope, that the imports feem to be few and inconildenible. TIkhL
exports are from the port of Triefle, confilUng of quiekfilvrr and otha
<netal«, with wines and various n.ntive produrts. Dr. Townlon gives 1
table of the exports of Hungary for one year, from whiclf it appears t!i;
they confiUed chiefly of cattle, hog", fliocp, flou**, vhcat, r^e, wool
and wine, carried to other Aullrian provinces ; and only about oiie-lVviMi
part fent Xm foreign countries.

• !U((b«k, U. 49. «6.

t Rurchiii^;, v>. i)<>.

ClIA

. AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS. 175

CHAPTER IV.

NATUnAL GEOGllAPliy.

rhalf ^"^^ Seqpinf . — Face of the Country. — Sotl and j^gricuUure, — Rlvert*

^Lakes. Mountains Forefts. — Botany »— 'Zoology,'— Mineralogy. ^-

JiJineral JVaiers.— Natural Curiofties.

T T^HE climate ot Auftria Proper is cora-
Climate axd SEASON'S.] ^ ^^^^ ^^jjj ^^ fakibriotts* though

fotnetimcs expofed to violent winds, and the fouthern provinces in gene-
ral enjoy delightful temperature, if the mountainous parts be excepted.
The more nothern regions of Bohemia and Moravia, with the late ac-
qiiilitions in Poland, can likewife boaft the maturity of the grape, and of
gentle and favourable weather. The numerous lakcB,, and moraffes of
Hungary, and the prodigious plains,, are fuppofed to render the air damp
and unwolefome, the cold of the night rivaUing the heat of the day ;
but the blalls from the Carpathian mountains icem in fome meafure to
remedy thefe evils, the inhabitants being rather remarkable for health
and vigour.

Face OF the country.] The appearance of the various regions fub-
icftto Auftria is rather mountainous than level, prcfenting a ftnking con-
trail in this refpeft to thofc of Rufiia and Pruflia. Commencing at Bre-
I'ttnt? on the lake of Conftance, we fmd chains o^ mountains, and the
llixtian Alps, and glaciers of Tyrol, branching out on the fouth and
north of Carinthia and Carniola. Another chain pervades Dalmatia,
and on afcending towards the north, Stiria difplays chains of confiderable
elevation. The fouthern limit of Aullria Proper is marked by other
heights ; and Bohemia and Moravia are alnioft encircled by various moun-
tains, which on the eaft join the vail Carpathian chain, that winds along
the north and eaft of Hungary and Tranfylvania, divided from each other
by another elevated ridge ; the difmcmbercd provinces of Poland, though.
in the fouth they partake of the Carpathian heights, yet afford the widcll
plains to be found within ihe limits of Aullrian power.

This ample extent of country is alfo diveriificdby many noble rivers,
particularly the majeftic Danube, and its tributary llream the Tiefs,
which flows througli the centre of Hungary ; and fcarcely is there a
flitlrift which is not duly irrigated. The general face of the Aullrian
dominions may therefore be pronounced to be highly variegated and
interelling ; and the vegetable produfts of both the north and fouth
of Europe unite to pleale the eye of the traveller.

Soil and AonicuLTunE.] The foil is upon the whole extremely
fertile and produftivc in fpite of the neglccl of induftry, whicli has pcr«
nittcd many parts of Hungary, and of the Polifh provmces, to pafs into
wide fbrells and marlhcs. Were (kill and labour to aflume the axe and
fpjdc, thofe very parts might difplay-lhe greateft exuberance of fertility.
The Hate of agriculture in Moravia is fuperior to the reft, being improved
I by Flcmifh farmers.

Rivers.] In enumerating the chief riven which pervade the Auftrian
I dominions, the Danube commands the firft attention. This magniiicent
Dream rifes in Swabia ; and^Count Marfigli has dehneated and explained
it humble fountains, in his large and curious work on this river. Though
|thecuurfe be occafionally impeded b/ fmall falls and whirlpools, yet it i%

navigable

IjjjjfLg^jHljy^uii^

176

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

navigable through a prodigious extent, and after watering SwaVi'
Bavaria, Auftria Proper, Hungary, and Turkey in Europe, it joins x\*
Euxine, or'^lack Sea, after a comparative circuit of about n '^
Britifh miles, about one half of its progrefs being through the territo °
of Auftjria. "^^

Next in confequence is the Tiefs, which arifing from the Carpathia
mountains, towards Buckovina, and bending towards the weft, receiv "
many tributary ftreams from that Alpine chain ; and afterwards tunijn
to the S. falls into the Danube not far to the W. of Belgrade, after^
courfe of about 420 miles. At Belgrade the Danube receives the Sau
or Save, which forms a boundary between Auftria and Turkey, rilln?
not far from Idria in the mountains of Carniola, and purfuing a courfe
nearly equal in length to that of the Tiefs. That of the Drau or Drave
extends to about 350 miles, from its fource in the eaftern mountains of
Tyrol, till it joins the Danube below Efleg.

The Inn rifes in the E. of Swiflerland, from the mountain of Me-
loggia in the Grifons, being a point of partition dividing the water*
which run towards the Black Sea, from thofe which flow into the
Adriatic *. This powerful river is more gentle near its fource than the
other Alpine ftreams, but foon becomes more precipitous ; and joins the
Danube at Paffau with a weight of water nearly equal to that Itrean^
after a courfe of about 250 miles.

The Raab, and the Leytha, intermediate ftreams between the Drave
and the Inn, only deferve a brief mention. The Mulda is a confiderable
river which rifes irf tlie fouthern mountains of Bohemia, and after
running about 50 miles S. E. bends due N. and joins the Elbe near
Melnick, after pafling through Prague. The Elbe itfelf arifes in the
Sudetic mountains between Bohemia and Silefia, and waters a great
part of the former kingdom before it enters Saxony, bending its courfe
N. W. towards the German ocean. The Morau, wlience Moravia
derives its name, alfo arifes in the Sudetic mountains ; and pafllnjr by
Olmutz joins the Danube not far to the \V. of Prefburg.

Lakes.] The lakes in the Auftrian dominions are numerous, and
fome of them of confiderable fize. Bohemia prefents a few fmall pieces
of water towards its fouthern boundary : but on entering Auftria Proper,
the lake of Traun, the Ebernfee, and others, are of greater extent.
Carinthia contains a large central lake not far from Clagenfurt ; and
Carniola another, the Cirknitz See. Hungary contains many morafics,
and lakes j the moft important of the latter being that of Platte, or tlie
Platten See, extending about ftrty-five Britifh miles in length, by eiglit
breadth, and abounding with fiih. The Neufidlcr lake, about thirty
miles S. £. of Vienna, is about thirteen miles in length by four in breadth,
It is almoft furroundcd by fens ; and is chiefly remarkable for being
in the vicinity of Eifenftadt, the princely rcfidence of the family of Ei-
terhazy. • On the E. of the Tiefs is the lake of Palitzer, about eight miles
in length. In Tranfylvania is the Tfege To ; and many fmall Takes arc
fituated amidft the Carpathian mountains.

Mountains.] In confidering the various elevated chains whitlij
diverfify the Auftrian territories, the defcription fliall begin witli the
weftcrn extremities, and terminate with the eaftern. In this point of
view the Rhztian or Tyrolefe Alps will claim the firft attention. Theft
chiefly proceed in a diredtion from the S. W. to the N. E,, or from the
Valtcline to the ar«hbifliopric of Saltzburg. Tkis Sauifure )m ob-

•Coxc'u Swiff, iij, as.

fervt'J

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

177

frfted i» the general courfe of the Alpine chain^ *. The Brenper moan- •
t?.ins» for fach is the modern name of the Rhactian Alps, rival the grand
41ps of Swifferland in numerous glaciers 5 and like other grand chains
nrefent exterior barriers, that on the N.' being diftinguifhed by the
Lmeof Spitz, while that on .the S. is termed Vedretta f. On leaving
Italy there is almoil a gradual afcent, from Trent to the higheft furtimit.
flieffreateft elevations arife to the N. of Sterzijig, whence ftreams pro-
ceed toward* the river Inn on the N. and the Adige on the S., and the
Eifac defccnds, a precipitous torrent, amidll mfttHes of granite, petro*
Ijlex, and marble. •« The naked and rugged penks of the mounts
Lorenzen, Fartfchel, and Tfchafatfeh raile their towering heads to-
,.jrd the N. W., and on the 8. E. are thofe of Glander, Schlofs, Pragis,
jriPalanfer. Their fummits are entirely bare ; and Hem to be compofed
^1t (jranite." The glacier moft eafy of acccfs is that of Stuben, it ia
.(fqiieet above the level of the fea, and prcfents the ufual phenomena
offuch fcencs, with beautiful pyramids of azure, which in funlhine reflet
ablaze of light.

Towards the W. and N. of Infprudk are feveral detached mountainSt
covered with conllant fnow ; among which thofe of Verner are the moll
remarliable. Near the glaciers are found rock cryftals of various colours*
and the inferior ranges of the Tyrolefe mountains contain mines of filver,
copper, lead, mercury, iron, alum, and fulphur. In the vale of Zill is
a mine of gold, which bafely defrays the ex pence and labour. The inferior
nauntains are, as ufual, calcareous, or argillaceous ; but thofe of VernCy
are granite.

The provinces of Carinthia and Camiola prefcnt many confiderable
chains of mountains ; as that of Lobel whicli feparates thefe countries ;
and the Julian, or Carnic Alps, (now called Birnbaumer Wald,) which
divide Carinthia from Italy.

Upper Aullria, or the wcftern part of this province, contains many
confiderable mountains, thehigheft of which is in the maps called Priel,
bat the proper name is Grcflenberg. Towards the N., Auftria is
divided from Bohemia by a ridge of confiderable elevation, which paflca
to the N. E. of Bavana. On the N. W., Bohemia is parted from
Sajony by a chain of metallu: mountains, called t'.ie Ertzgebcrg, a word
that implies hills containing mines. On the W. tf the river Eger, near
itsjunftion with the Elbe, ftands the mountainous group of Mileflbu,
fuppofed to be the highell in the province. On the N. E. the Sudetic
chain, which branches from the Carpathian, divides Bohemia and Moravia
from Silcfta and the Prufllan dominions.

The Carpathian mountains, that grand and cxtcnfivc cliain which
bounds Hungary on the N. and- E., hava been celebrated from all
antiquity. By the Germans they are (lyled the mountains of Krapak,
probably the original name, which was foftened by tlie Roman enun-
ciation; the Hungarians, a modern people, call them 'I'atra. This
fflomious ridge extends in a femicircular form from the mountain of
Javornik S. of Silefia towards the N. W. But at the mountain of
Trojaflca, the moft northern fummit, it bends to .the S. E. to the con-
fines of the Buckovina, where it fends forth two branches, one to the E.
mother to the W. of Traufylvania ; which is alfo divided from Walachia
by a branch running S. W. and N. E. The v.holc circuit may be about
hoc milei. The highcil fummits of thefa mountains, according t« Dr.

•Vgl. vitt. 941.

f Betummt't Rlioet. Alpi, Lond«o, 1799, fol. p. !)7* Jbc.

li ToMi:nroDf

178

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

Townfon, do not exceed 8 or ^000 feet, and they are for the n^oft part
compofed of granite and primitive limeftone.

Forests.] To enumerate the forefts in the Auftrian dominions would
be a talk at once laborious and (jruitlefs. Suffice it to obferve, that
numerous and extenfive forefts arife in every direAion, particularly along
the Carpathian mountains, and in the provinces acquired from Poland,
Even Bohemia was formerly remarkable for a foretl of great extent, a
remain of the Hercynia Sylva of antiquity, which extended from the Rhine
to Sarmatia, from Cologne to Poland. The Gabreta Sylva was on the
S. W. of the fame country, where a chain of hills now divides it from
Bavaria.

Botany.] The ftates which compofe the powerful and extenfive
empire of Auftria have been furveyed with very different degrees of
accuracy as to their natural produAiona. While the botany of Auftria
Proper has been carefully ilh ftrated by Jacquin ; and that of Carniola
by Scopoli and Hacquet, the flora of Hungary is ftill very impcrfeft •
and the acquifitions in Poland by the laft and former partitions are
as yet in a manner unknown to natural hiftory. The general mild
temperature of the Auftrian ftates, their variety of foil and fituation,
from the lakes and rich levels of Hungary, to the fnowy fummits of
Iftria and Carmthia, are a fufficient evidence of the richnefs of their
flora ; each year it is augmented by the diCcovery of new fpecies, and
will doubtlels long contmue to be increafed by the inveiUgations of
future botanifts. We (hall follow the plan to which we have hitherto
adhered of enumerating, as far as our narrow limits will allow, the
principal vegetables, natives of Auftria, which for their beauty or ufe
merit particular notice ; of thefe it will be found that a large propor.
tlon has been admitted into our gardens, and many more, from the
(elegance of their form, or glow of colour, have an equ^ claim to
domeilication.

The bulbous-rooted plants, remarkable, for the moft part, for the
beauty of their flowers, and abounding chiefly in the warmer climates,
occupy a confpicuous rank in the flora of Auftria, a long lift of thefe
might be produced, but we ftiall fele6l only the principal : thefe are the
tutted and cluftered hyacinth ; ahum viAoriale, one of the moft ftately
and ornamental fpecies of the large genus garlic ; the orange lily; marta- 1
goi^ and turncap lily ; dog's tooth violet, one of tiie earlieft beauties of |
the fpring ; yellow and tawny day lily ; and lallly, though perhaps fu-
perior in beauty to any of the preceding, veratrum a\,bum and nigrum,
ii'hite and llach hellebore.

To the clafs decandria belong feveral isterefting plants, of which the
following are the moft worthy of mention : alpme and maiden pink ; I
fraxinella ; and two fpecies of rhododendron, the hairy and ferruginous,
both of which merit diftindtion in a genus, every fpecies of which is more
than commonly beautiful.

The X<innaean clafs pentandria contains the moft beautiful of the indi-
genous plants of the Auftrian dominions, feveral of which have found I
their way into our gardens. The moift and fpungy fides of the moun.
taina from the Carpathian chain to the heights of Iftria are adorned by]
the foldanella alpina and aretia alpina, two minute, but exquifitely]
beautiful plants, the former with purple, the latter with white and flelh-j
coloured bloffoms. Among the numerous fpecies of flax, the followingl
very elegant ones arc natives of Auftria : hairy flax ; yellow flowered f.;|
anil Auftrian f. i with large deep-blue bloflbms; the ftemlefs gentiar,!

diftinguifhi-dl

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

^ '[■.,ffuJ(]ied by its large ereA blue bell-Ihaped bloflbm, rifing imme-
diately' from the centre of the leaves ; and the Pannonian gentian, the
moll fplendid of the whole genus, growing to a confiderable height, and
b<-aring its large purple-dotted bloifoms in tufts on the top and tides of

the ftem*
Of the papilionaceous plants maybe enumerated the greater laburnum,

a tree of wme magnitude, adorning the banks of the Danube with its

Ijng clullers of golden bloffoms..

Several remarkable plants, inhabitants of the Audrian dominions, ar*
^noe themfelves under the Linnaean clafs polyandria ; among thefe may
e Siftinguiihed two fpecies of Adonis, or pher ant's eye, adorning the
allows with their fcarlet petals ; tlie alpine popp) remarkable by its fnow-
ifhite flowers ; mountain anemone ; the Chriilmas rofe ; and potentilla
;itida, confpicuous for its beautiful flefh-coloured petals, and its glaucous
leaves ; the facred lotus of Egypt and India has alfo of late been found
ia fame lakes in Hungary.

The perennial flirubby plants may be divided into the flowering
llirubs, the fruit-bearing, and the foreft trees. Of the former clafs, the
ijburnum has been already mentioned ; the reft, with the excepti(»ii«ot'
tiie flefh-coloured heath, lilac, and German tamarifk, are fcarcely in-
terefting* except to botanifts. The common fruit-trees of Europe are
tely cultivated in the pro/inces of Auftria, but their lift of native fruits
iiveryfcanty. The foreft trees are, the elm ; thewychelm; lime-tree;
lirch and alder ; common and prickly -cupped oak ; fumach ; walnut ;
(hefnut and beech ; hornbeam ; black and while poplar and aipen ; fyca-
Eore and maple ; the afli j the pine, the tir, the yew-leaved fir, and the

larch.

Zoology.] The domeftic animals in the Auftrian dominions are com-
oonly excellent, particularly the cattle. Many of the native horfes run
wild, and are fold in great numbers at the fairs, before they have fuffered
ayfubjeftion. The breed of cattle is moftly of a fingular colour, a flaty
lluej and the Hungarian Iheep refemble the Walachian in their long ere^t
fpiral horns, and pendant hairy fleece. In the weilern parts of the Auftriau
ibvereignty the animals do not fecm to be di^linguilhed from t'uufe of other
parts of Germany.

The large breed of wild cattle, called Urus or Bifon, is faid to be found
in the Carpathian forefts, as well as in thofc of Lithuania and Caucafus.
Among the wild quadrupeds may alfo be named the bear, the boar, the
wolf, the chamois, the marmot, and the beaver. The Danube boafts of
fomedfhes (eldom found in other rivers, among which is a fmall and d(Ji-
ute fort of falmon.

Mineralogy.] The mineralogy of the Auftrian dominions being by
lir the moft various and interefting of any in Europe, it will be proper to
(onfider it with fome attention. There is fcarcely a province of this
extenfive territory, from the frontiers of Swiflerland to thofe of Tiu-key,
vhich cannot boaft of advantages in the mineral kingdom ; and aa it
nrc by a d.'ftiny attached to thehoufeof Auftria, even tlie acquifitions
in Poland contalnone oF the moft remarkable mines in Europe, the faline
ncavations of Wielitflta. The mines of Bohcm^ia have been celebrated
km ancient times*. Silver is found at Kuttenberg, and at Joachimfthal,
on the weftcm frontier towards Saxony, probably a continuation of the
KJfli of that country ; and gold has been difcovercd at Keonftock. One

*Bufcbuig, vol. vi. ia6. French edit. 8vo.

Na of

i8o

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

of the moft fingular prodnfts of this province is tin, \rhich ig founj
Zinwald (that is the ttii foreft), and other weflern diftrifts of Bohem' ■
vhcrc is alfo found, at Dreyhacken, a mine of very pure copper. V^a
occurs at Bleyiladt, in the fame quarter. The earnets of Bohemia ^

*i A I ^:f..i _r »!._ 1 .'J 'PI _° ^1! a I' .V"'*'ire

they are carried to Dilen*. The women wafli the clay in whicE'the gar'
nets are found; after which they are fifted and arranged accordinir to fiz '
and fold by the pound weight frdm about tJiree t» ten niilHsies. Man *
•workmen are occupied in cutting and piercing them, for necklaces an'l
other ornaments : they are poliflied in facets, with emen- on a piece of
freeftone, and pierced with a fmall diamond. Tliis branch of commerce
is of great antiquity at CarlHiad, and at Walkirk in Suabia, where twentv
' eight mills are occupied in this article only. " '*

Tlie fertile archduchy of Auftria difplars few minerals, though ther(>
be mines of gold near the abbey Goettwig, and of alum near Krems •
faltpctreis I Ovvever prepared in abundance ; and, at a little diftance from
St. Annaberg, near the frontiers of Stiria, a rich mine of filver was
opened in 1754. The fouthern provinces of Stiria, Carinthia, and
Camiola, afford many important minerals. The iron of Stiria fupplies
the fineft fteel, and CT-eat quantities are imported into England', there
are confiderable lead mines near Pegan, on the river Mohr, yicldinir
about 5000 tons yearly. Stiria alfo affords coal at different places-
not to mention minerals of mere beauty or ciiriofity, amon? which
may be named the fmgular blue granite, which is found near Kricglach
hi Stiria. '

On the E. of Stiria extends the duchy of Carinthia, alfo yieldinff
•xcelleat iron, the mines of Friefach on the N. being particularly
famous. In the neighbourhood of Villach, at Bitfybprg, are found
rich lead mines ; and the fame place fupplies wiiat is called (ire.marble
or lumachelli.

Carniola, or Krain, abounds with immcnfo caves, and other natural
curiofities ; but, except a few iron works, tlje mineralogy is little re.
markable. On the vvcil, towards the county of Gorz, which produces
excellent wints, hcs the ban of Idria, a dillricl immediately fubjeft to
the chamber of Inner A utlria at Grat;'.. The quicklilver mines of Idria
;;re celebrated in natural liillory. poetry, and romance. They .were
difcovered in the year 1499 ; and the h;ll of Vogelberg has annually
yieldf.'d more than 300,000 pound Wi-ight of mercury. The common
ore is cinabar; but fuuk.'tin.ts pure quickfilver runs through the
crevices.

On palTmg Into Tyrol, fovoral mines occur of ancient reputation,
fuch as tliat of filwer and h'ud near Lernios ; and in the fame quarter
tlidlV of KiiiVrcit in the VVrner mountains, about 30 miles N.W. of
Irifpruek, which are opulent in fiKvr, copper, lead, gnd ironf,

I3nt tlif; principal mines in tlie AuUrian dominions are fitutited in the
rullci 11 proviiicei of Hun;Tary and Tranfyh-ania. About 40 miles to
tlie S. of thv Carjvithian hills are the gold mines of Cremnitz ; and 20
HiijTliili tnilos further to the S. the jiJwr mines of Schcmnit/: cities
■whirli havt> arif(»n fol'-ly from tlicle labours, a';d thence called miniiKr;
towns. Sch(»niiiifz is cllccn'.ed th;: principal. The academy here infii-
tutedfor the fludyof mineralogy is highly refpectable, and onlyrivalkti

* Jouin. (Ic» .Mill. .No. iv, ;Ki.

t Utauinont, 77. Fnber, 329.

* Joun
I Tvnti

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

i8i

Ly tliat of Freyberg in Saxony. Hungary contains mines of copper at
Ccfimclnitz and Herrengi-:ind, of very rich antimony at Roienau ; and
in different parts of coal, fait, and alum. Saltpetre is alfo produced
jnconfidcrable quantities-: and natron or foda is found in a lake near
Kifinaria, towards the frontier of Tranfylvania *. But a mineral pe.
^•uliar to Hungary, and as yet difcovered in no other region of the

lobe, is the opal, a gem preferred to all others by the oriental nations.
T'he opal mines "are fituatcd at' Czenveniza, a fliort day's journey to the
JJ. of Kafchaw, and nearly under the fame latitude with Cremnitz.
I'lie IilU in which they are found confifts of decompofed porphyry ; and
^liey only occur at the dillance of a few fathoms from the furface, of
various qualities, from the opake white, or femi-opal, which is alfo dif-
covered in Comwallj to that utmolt eifulgeiice of iridefcent colours
^vhicli diftinguifties this noble gem.

The mines of Tranfylvania and tlie Bannat are alfo nymerous and
valusble. Thofe of Najiag, twelve Britiih miles to the N.E. of Deva,
produce the grey gold ore. They are the richcll in all Tranfylvatiia,
and conduced with the greatell care and exadnefs. At Ofenbanya,
about 25 Britifh miles to the N. of Karlfljurg, is found the white gold
ore, which alfo occurs in the hills of Fatzebay, in tlie fiime quarter.
The country towards the W, of Karlfburg prefents numerous gold mines
near Zalathna : and in the N. of this provi-ice are thofe of Kapnick,
Felfobanya, and others. Th-? chief mining towji 0/ the Bannat is Ora-
tfiza, towards the S. of which are found mines of copper ; and gold
;ii:d Hlver at Dognalka to tlie N.

The fait mines acquired from Poland alone rems»in to be defcribcd
Tlieyare fituated, as already n.entioncd, at Wielitll%'a, eight miles Jo th*^
S. of Craco •', being excavated at the northern extremity of a branch ot"*
the Carpathian mountains. The defccnt is by pits of great depth ; and
the galleries and chambers are of iinmcnfe fue, commonly ("upported by
timber, or by vaft pillais of fi;lt, out of which material even fubterraneous
chapels are formed ; but travellers have highly exaggerated the fplendour
and extent of the falinc apartments f. The fait is oi an iron grey colour.
Imnetimes intermingled with white cubes ; and fometimes large blocks of
fait appear imb*cdded in marl J. The purcll fort is Cpund at the boitotn
gf the mine, and is fparry. The mines extend about 3600 feet from li.
toW., and about 200 from S. to N.

MiNEUAi. WATEUsj.] The mineral waters in the Auftrian domiuiont
are very numerous, as k to be expeded in a country fu mountainous, with
the exception of the great plain in the W. of Hungary, extending up-
wards of 250 miles in every direction. Aullria Proper prefei^ts thofe of
Baden; and Bohemia thofc at Carllbad. Mineral fpringa alfo aboutid
in Hungaryl

Natliial curiosities.]] Among the natural cnriofities may be named
the grand Alpine fcenes of Tyrol, the glaciers and pealis of the Bronnor.
InCarniola, near Adlelberg, is faid to be a grotto of prodigious extent,
difplaying fpaccs fufficient for the creftion of villages, and containing
patural amphitheatres, bridges, &c.^. But the chief natural curiolity of
Carniola is the lake of Cirknitz, called by Dr. Brown the Zirchnitzer
See. That traveller informs us, that it is about two German, or
inprc than eight ^nglifh miles in length, by four of the latter in breadth.

* Joum. des Min. No. ii»

f Cow's Pol. i. 000.
i liulching, vol, vii. CO.

Ill

■nmmiisumiti

l%t

AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.

In the month of June the water dcfcends under ground, through ma
apertures in the bottom ; and in September it reaicends with confiderahl^
force ; thus yielding rich pafturage in fummer, while in winter it aboanJs
with fiih.

PRUSSIA.

CHAPTER I.

HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Namei.'— Extent — Subdivtfwm Mtid Population, — Original Populatlon.-~.pra,
grejive Geography. — Hl/iorical Epochs and Antiquities.

THIS kingdom which .only commenced with the eighteenth century
has by gradual acceflions become fo extenfive, as defervcdly to
rank among the firft powers of Europe. The tlominicns of Pruffia
were fmall and fcattered, till the acquiiition of Silefla, and afterwardj
of a third part of Poland, gave a wide and ftable bafis to the new
monarchy.

Names. '\ This regiv->n was faintly known to the ancients, who mention
various tribes that poireffed it : and the amber, which here only was found
in fuch quantities as to form a regular article of commerce, greatly con.
tributed to its celebrity. The name of the country originates, according
to fome, from the Pruzzi, a Slavonic tribe ; but more probably, according
to others, from the name of Rujfia, and the Slavonic word Poy which
figiiifies near, or adjacent.

Extent.] Exclufive of fmall detached territories, the kingdom of
Pruffia extended (1806) from Horiiburg and the river Oker, in the conn,
try of Halberftadt, the furtheft weltern connefted dillrid, to the river
ISIemcl, or about 600 miles. The breadth, from the fonthern limit of
Silefia to Dantzick, exceeds 300 miles. On the eaft and fouth, Pruffia
now borders on the dominions of Ruflla and Auttria, and the wefteni
limits adjoin to the biihopric of Hilde(heim. Before, the recent acquj.
fitions in Poland, the number of Pruflian fubjedls was only computed at
5,621,500, in a total extent of 56,414 fquare mites, that is about 09 to
t'*e fquare mile. In iSof they amounted to above eight millions, dillri.
buted according to the following lift of provinces and inhabitants.

940,000 Inhabitants, j
521,625
1,100,000
700,000

472,957

755.577 .

279.584
2751263

111,875

1,821,065

i^ontiguousStates <

1. Eaftern Pruffia -.-

2. Weftern Pruffia — .

3. Southern PrulTia —

4. New Eaftern Pruffia

5. Pomerania —

6. Brandenburg or Mid*
dlemarch "■'

7. Newmarch —

8. Magdeburgh — .

9. Halberftadt, or Ucker-
march —

^,10. $ilefia IT*

InWeftphalia <

PRUSSIA.

'ii. Minden

•—

67,g^t

12. Ravenfturgh

81,812

13. Eaft Friefland

-•

102,594

14. Cleves

lOOjOOO

15. Mocrs

—

17,000

16. Mark —

—

121,984

17. Gelder

48,000

18. Tecklenburg

—

17.234

19. Lingen

—

23.432

'zo. Anfpach

—

215,256

21. Bayreuth

—*

205,440

22. Neufchatel

42,500

8,d2i,i49^

183

jiiFranconia
Swiflerland

The prefent boundaries of Pruflia may be eftimated by the following
articles in the treaty of peace with France in 1807.

"II. The part of the duchy of Magdeburg, which lies on the right
bank of the Elbe, the Mark of Prcrignitz, the Ukermark of Brande- ...
l)urg, with exception of the circle of Kotbers in Lower Lufatia, the
ducliyof Ponierania, Upper, Lower, and New Sileiia, with the county
of Glatz, the part of the diftrift of Nel's which lies to the north of the
road from Driefen, Schreidemath, and to the north of a line pafling from
Scrudemapt, by Walden, to the Vittula and to the circle of Bromberget
Ponierania, th? ifland of Nogat, to the weft of Old Pruflia» and the
north of the circle of Culmor ; finally the kingdom of Pruflia, as it
was on the firft of January 1772, fliall be reftored to his majefty the
liing of Pruflia, with the fortreflVs of Spandau, Stettin, Cuftrin»
Glogan, Breflau, Schwiednitz, NeifR^ Brieg, Cofel, and Glat?, and
in general all the places, citadels, caftles and forts, of the above-men-
tioned, .''"lall be rellored in the ftate in which they at prefent are. The
town and citadel of Grandcnz, with the villages of Neudorf, Parfchken,
and Schweirkorzy, fliall likewife be rellored to his majefty the king of
Pruflia.

« Xin. The king of Pruflia renounces for ever pofli-flion of all the
provinces wliich formerly conftituted parts of the kingdom of Poland,
and have at diffarent periods come under the dominion of Prulfia, eX'*
cepting Eroncland, and the country to the weft of ancient Pruflia, to
the'ealt of P<Mnerania, and the New Mark to the north of the circle of
Hulm, and a line which pafles from the Viftula by Waldan to Schneide-
mul, and pafl^^s along the boundaries of the circle Bromberg, and the
road from the Schneidemul to Driefen, which provinces, willi the town
and citadel of Grandenz, and the villages of Neudorf, Parfchken, and
Swierkorzy, fliall in future be poflefled by the king of Pruflia."

Okigikal population.] The original population of Pruflia appears,
from Tacitus and Pliny, to have confifted of the Peucini and iEftii,
Ciotliic tribes bordering on the Venedi, who were Slavons. The amber
of the MiVii continued to be celebrated in the time of Theodoric ; but at
what precife period thcfe original inhabitants were expelled, or fubdued,
by the Slavonic tribes on the call, remains uncertain. Suflice it in general
toobferve, that the Slavonic tribes extended widely over the N. of Ger-
m^Ji after the old Gothic inhabitants had crowded to tlie more fertile

♦ Hoerk, 1801,
N4

rrgioni

'^infjiiffim-

1 94

PRUSSIA.

regions of the fouth, in confcquence of tke decline and fall of the Rom

empire.

lan

Progressive geography.] The progreffive geography of thofo
provinces which now conftitute the Pruffian territory, would form an cm.
broiled and multifarious topic. One of the moil fingular features in the
geography of thefe regions, during the middle ages, is the exiftence of
Julin, a city of great extent and commerce, on the right hank of the
Oder in Pomerania, which was deftroyed by Waldemar, king of Den
mark. Farther to the eaft the Slavonic tribes on the Baltic coniinui J
pagans to a late period ; and the country was little known or vifited
except by a fpecies of crufaders, who went to affift the Teutonic
knights in fubduing thofe Saracens, as they were ilylcd in the ifrno.
lance of the times. ^

Historical efociis.] As this kingdom is recent, and compofed oT
feveral ancient ftates, its hiftorical epochs and antiquities are of courfe
complex. Not to mention the fmaller provinces, among which is the
diftant principahty of Neufchatel, on the frontiers of France and Swif,
ferland, Pruflia may be regarded as confifting of four great divifions, the
eleftorate of Brandenburg ; the kingdom gf IVuffia Proper j the larpe
province of Siiefia ; and a third part of the ancient kingdom of Poland
As the family which now rules thofe extenfive domains was originally
the eledtoral houfe of Brandenburg, it will be proper firft to trace the
progrefs of its power.

I. The emperor Charles IV., in 1373, afllgned Brandenburg to his
fecond fon Sigifmund, who, in 141 5, being then emperor of Germany
fold his margraviate and eleftorate to Frederic burgrave of Nuremburp
for 400,000 ducats. This prince was the anceltor of the prefent reign<

ing race.

2. Joachim II. elector of Brandenburg, embraced the Lutheran rcli,
gion in 1539. which has fince been the ruling fyftem of the ilate.

3. John Sigifmond becomes duke of Pruflia in 1618.

4. Frederic William, furnamed the Great Eledlor, fucceeded his
Either in 1640; and in 1656 compelled the king of Poland to declare
Pruflia an independent ftate, it having formerly been held of the PoliJh
fovereigns. This prince is highly praifed by his royal defcendant, the
author of Memoirs of the Houfe of Brandenburg, ,as the chief founder
pf the power of that family. He was fucceeded m 1688 by his fon.

5. Frederic III., or I. as King, who, fupporting the emperor in
the conteft for the Spanifli fuccelfion, was by him declared king of
Pruflia : under which title he was proclaimed at Xoniglberg, on the
1 8th day of January, lyoi, he himfelf placing the crown upon his
head.

6. Frederic William IIm or J, as Kingi afcended the throne in 1713;
and in 1721 founded the city of Potfdam. But he was chiefly re>
markable as the father of that jgreat prince Frederic II. *, who afcended
the throne in 1740, and died m 1786, after a long aqd glorious reign;
the moft memprable and lafting event of which wa9 the agquifi^ion of
■Siiefia from the houfe of Auftria in 1742.

^, The fliort reigri of his nephew is known to every reader. The
^dlure of the Pruflian ta£lic3 in France and Poland convinced Europe
that the great Frederic had hcen the foul of the nuKhine^ But thsi^

t In the renl S^attiogj the nnte of Frederic idoqe ii cqnii^red w ^ifiinA ftom t|^t
«C Ft«dcrioWiUiai».

((lefki

PRUSSIA.

185

and to pay lioinuge for the

checks were rccompenced by the completion of the Prufllan acqulfitions
Poland. 'A'lie reign of liis fon, the prefeiit monarch, has proved, of
all others, tlie moll unfot'tunate, the Prufliau monarchy bi'ino- now re-
iuced to a cypher.

1'lic hiftorical epochs of Pruflia Proper are riot deferving of mtiph
flucidation. The knowledge of the ancients concerning this country
has already been explained. A faint dawn oi' hillory, in the middlo
ares, difclofes at the mouth of the Viilula the Priizzi, a Slavonic
nation, who were afterwards "fubducd by the knijhts of the Teutonig

order.

1. This order originated A. P. 119"), in the camp of the crufadert
i)tfore Acca, or Acre, from Come citizens of I^iibec and Brcmc?\i. Nex(
year a bull of inftitution was obtained from the pope, with all the pri-
vileges granted to the knights templars. The crufi^ides to Palellin?
laving failed, the knights diret'ied their ent ^rprize againll the pagans of
(lie N. of Germany, A. D. 1 227 ; and iu a few years conquered PruiUai
jnd founded feveral cities.

2. The knights thus eftabliihed in Priiflla direfted their efforts
8<Tainil the Lithuanians, and other pagans in the eaft. But repeate4
w^ars with Poland were lei s fortunate; and about J 446 the four chief
(itiesof Pruffia, Elbing, Thorn, Konigfberg, and Dantzick, withdrew
their allegiance from the Teutonic order, and claimed the protection of
Poland. .

3. In 1466, Cafimir king of Poland forced the Teutonic order to aban-
don to him the eallern part of Prulna, ar
wcftern part.

4. Albert of Brandenburg, grand-mafter of the order, obtained from
liij maternal uncle, Sigifmund kmg of Poland, the hereditary invelliture
of all that the order poifefled in Prufiia, and embraced the Lutheran
religion.

f. In 1 618, John Sigifmund, elector of Brandenburg, acquired tin*
duchy: and in 1621 his fuccefTor received the folemn inveilitvire from the
king of Poland.

Silefia affords few materials for hiftory. This country was formerly
a Slavonic province of the Polifh dominions ; but in 1339 was feizcd by
John of Luxemburg king of Bohenaia, and paffcd with that fovereignty
to the houfe of Auftria. The houfe of Brandenburg certainly hajj lome
ancient claims to this province, which were finally afcertaiued by the
(word in 1742, as already mentioned.

As not only the recent acquilitibns in Poland were of far more com-
parative confequence to Prufiiay than either to Auftria or Ruflla ; and as
m fad this fovereignty was in pofleffion of the metropolis, and all the
chief cities and ports of Poland, and may be fafd to exift only on the
bafis of that ancient kingdom, which it reprefented in the modern balance
of power, ift will be proper here to repeat, in a few words, the chief
epochs of the Pohih hidory.

1. Even in the Roman times Poland was chiefly poflefTed by the Sar-
matae, or Slavons ; and the Poles pretend to trace their dukes from the
fixth century. Qut the authentic hiftory only begins with Fiaft»
A< D. 842. In 992 the Chriftian religion was introduced.

2. Uladflas, duke of Poland, affumed the title of king, A. D. 1320;
snd was fucceeded by his fon Calimir, fumamed the Crreat.

3. The houfe of Jage^on> dukes of Lithuania, afcended the Polifli
throne in 1384, and ruled till 15^3} ia hereditary fucceifion» though
withpretsnde^ele&iop. ' .

4- The

x85

PRUSSIA

4. The throne of Poland becomes merely ele£Hve in the perfon of
Henry de Valois, 1 574 ; but it was afterwards chiefly contefted by nativ
princes, and by the eledlors of Saxony.

5. John Sobieflci, king of Poland, in 1683 forced the Turks to raife
the fiege of Vienna, which was the laft valiant adion atchieved by the
Poles.

6. The recent annihilation of the monarchy.

ANtiQUiTXES.] From this general view oi the component parts of the
Prulllan hiftory it will appear that few ancient monuments can be expefted
in regions, where even a rude knowledge of the arts is comparativel*
fo recent. Some Slavonic idols, caft in bronze, conltitute almoft the
only pagan antiquities ; and the caftles, and churches, erected after the
introduaion of the Chriftian religion, have few iingularities to attraft
particular attention. The Polifti coinage begins about the twelfth cen«
tury, and is upon the German model.

CHAPTER n.

POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

ileligion. — EceJefiaft'ical Geography. — Government. — La'Wt. — Colontn.-m.
Army. — Navy. — Revenuet.— Political Importance and Relatlom.

RirrTrrnwl T^HE ruling reliftion of Priifll.i is the proteftant,
ILELIGION. J j^ ^^^^^ .jg j^^ ^j^j^f jjiy,f,on3 of Lutheran and Cal.

viniftic. But after the recent acquifitions in Poland it would feem that
the greater number of the inhabitants mull be Roman Catholic. The
univerfal toleration which has been wifely embraced by the Pruflian
monarchs, has had its ufual effedl of abating theological enmity, and the
different fedts feem to live in perfect concord.

Ecclesiastic geography. J The ecclefiaftical geography of Pruflia
would be at once little intereiling, and of difficult detail. The biihoprics
in Poland and Silefia feem to retain their ancient limits, while the power
of the prelates is confidcrably abridged.

Government, &c.] Ae no veftigc of any fenate or delegates from
the p^ple is known in this kingdom, it mud be pronounced an abfolute
government ; but the fpirit and good fenfe of the nation unite with tlie
wifdom and mildnefs of fucceffive monarchs, (who have uniformly wifhed
to invite foreign fcttlcrs by views of eafe and freedom, inllead of ex.
pelling their own people by rigour,) to render the fovcrcignty as con-
ciliatory, and perhaps more beneficent, than if joined with a venal
fenate. The late great monarch reformed many abufes in the laws ; but
it cannot be difguifed that the tenor of his government was too mill.
tary, a fault inherent in the Pruflian fyilem.

Colonies.] No foreign colonies have emigrated from Pruflia; and I
it hao been indeed a ciucf object with the monarchs to colonize the
country itfelf.

Army.] The army is fuppofed to amount to about 237,000, in*
eluding about 40,000 cavalry. The tactics of the late able fovcreign I
conferred dillinguiflied reputation on the Pruflian battalions, but they arc
pow fuppofed not to exceed the Auftrian ; and military men coniider
both as inferior tothofe of Ruflia, who feem tobe juftly regarded is the

.bcft troop$ in Europe.

JJavv.J

PRUSSIA.

187

Navy.] The acquifition of Dantzick, and fome other ports in the
Baltic* may in time place Pruflia among the maritime powers ; but
hitherto the fole attention has been paid to the land fervice.

Revenues.] Before the additions of Polifli terrtory the revenue was
fftimated at 3,880,000!. ftcrhng ; and the expence of" the army at
-27f,oool.* Frederic II. laudably expended about half a million
ft'erling yearly, in the improvement of his dominions. The entire revenue
of Poland was not computed to exceed 439,546!. fterling. If we even
fuppofe half of this added to the Pruflian revenue, the refult would not
be important ; Pruflia, however, has the fiipreme advantage of free-
dom from national debt, whence the fmallnefs of the revenue has never
been regarded a$ detrading from its pofition among the chief European
powers.

PoLlTICAt IMPORTANCE AND Rl I.ATIONS.] ( i8g6.) The political

importance and relations of this kingdom have imprefled the European
hiilorv of this century with new and diftinft features. What Poland
iTOuld have been, if blefled with a happier government, and executive
energy, may be conceived from the prcfont appeiirauce of Pruflia, cx-
clufivc only of one circumftjince that of contiguity with the Ottoman
dominions. An alliance with Pruflia would be indeed of fupreme im.
portan.;e to the Turkifti empire ; nor can it be the intcrell of Pruflia
to permit Ruflia to extend her aggrandizements.

In regard to the other chief powers of Europe, England, France,
Rullia, and Aullria, an alliance of the firll with Pruflia has repeatedly
been enforced by circumllanccs j but it cannot be difguifed that there
is a more noccfTary and important connection between Pruflia and France,
35 both have caufe to be jealous of the Auftrian power, which France
can rflcntially injure, while England is by nature debarred from any pre-
ponderating interference. But a chief province of Pruflian politics muft
bethe (lifcncoof the country againft the arms and influence of Ruflia,
for which purpofe a n\oll important ftep would be a fiym alliance, ce-
mented by every political tic and intereft, between Pruflia, Denmark,
jnd Sweden, which, if the Ruflian empire remain undivided, wiU be
tbe fulc barrier of continental independence.

CHAPTER III.

CIVIL CEOGKArilY.

Manners and Cujloms.— 'Language.'— I Atfratures-^Education. — Unherfitiet
— Cities and Towns. — Edif^a. — Roads. —Inland Navtj^ation.''~ManU'
failures and Commerce.

M.WNKRS AND CU8TOM.S.]

THE manners and cuftoms of a country
compofcd of fuch various inhabi-
tants, recently united under one fovereignty, mult of courfu be dif-
curdant. Travellers have remarked that, in comparifon with the Saxoni,
uho are a lively and contented people, the Pruflians appear dull and
gloomy ; a charafter which they impute partly to the military govem^
rnent, and partly to the general anxiety which muft have been exrited
[<) the repeated dangers to which their country yft» exp ofcd, wbei)

* Dwttjcher, p, >0.

contending

%Miimomm-~

)83

PRUSSIA.

contending with the powers of Ruffia and Auflrla. As to the P J
jthey feem full of life and aftion, but their features and general aoiM.,

'if;

women, is

appear.

ance are rather Aiiatic than European. ** Men of all ranks ijener II
wear whiHcers, and (have their heads, leaving only a circle of hair u'
the crown. The drefs of the higlicr orders, both men and wom^n^"

uncommonly elegant. That of the gentlemen is a waiftcoat with flee*
pver which they wear an upper robe of a different colour wh K
readies down below the knee, and is faftened round the waillwith
falh or ffif die ; the fleeves of this upper garment are, in warm weathe '^
tied behind the flioulders ; a fabre is a necellary part of their drefs a*
a mark of nobility. In fummer the robe, &c. is of filk, in winter o'"
cloth, velvet, or ihiff, edged with fur. Tliey wear fur caps or bon'
nets, and bulkins ot yellow leather, t!ie heels of which are plated with
iron or fteel. The drefs of the ladies is a fnnple polonaife or lonir mU
edged with fur*." ^ '

Lan'OUAGe] The ruhn^ lan'j:uagc of Pruflla is the German, nfiich
jt is probable may in time I'upplant the Polifh, in thofe parts which arc
fubjeft to Pruffia and Auitria.

LiTEUATUUE.'] The literature of Pruflla may well be conceived to
be of recent origin : nor even after the refloration of letters did any re.
markable author ari£e in tho elednrnte of Brandenburg. But Dantzick
was the native country of Clnvcriur., an eminent geographer ; and Co.
pernicus, a great name in aftroiioni)-, was born at Thorn, as Iiia prei'.
cefTor Regiomontanus was'at Konigfherg, his name being a Latin tranf.
lation of that of hi« birth-pkcc. Silcfia has likowife few prcte.:lioi;s to
literary fame, nor are thofe of P bi.d lii-hly illnlb ions. KadUibko, tii-
ipoft ancient Polifli hillorian, wrcite in izz^ i "»d *i"^c '-i-i tunc, tlitre
lias been n fucceflion of Latin chronieL-rs. Trcderic the Gr. :it hz^\ a
mean opinion of German literatu:-e ; and though he wnUe iu Frcisdi
mull be claffed among thp molt dilliiigr.ifiicd auihors of his kiiigdo:;!,
Nor is Count Hertlbcrg, his ininillcr, without merit. Amo^ig the^otiier
names, either natives or who flatiriflK-d in Pruiria, may be mcniionul
Ramler the poet, Nicolai an original writer of romances, &c. Buf.
ching the geographer, Spalding, and Mendelfohn f .

Education.] The tlate of education in this country feems to hi
equally ncgleded as in the far gr.ater part of Europe. The n«imbcr iii
recruits wanted for the army, and the conl'e([uent uncertainty of delkina.
tion for life, muft fingularly in.^ivjde the national initrliftion.

Universitirs.] 'Ihere are however ft-veral uriivorfitics, fuch as that
of Frankfort on the Oder, founded by Jojichim elector of Brandenburg
in the year 1516. Konig(berg in Prufli^ was founded in 1544. Of the
Polidi univeHities Cracow has fallen to Auftria, and was founded in 13645
and Wilna, founded in 1570, to Ruflia. Pofna or Pofcn lias become
fubjea to Pruffia.

Cities and lowss.] Among the chief cities of Prullla muft firfl lie
mentioned Berlin, fituatcd on the banks of the river Sprcy, and regu.
larly fortified. It was founded in the twelfth centuryj^ by a col ny
from the Netherlands, and contains 142,000 inhabitantx, being about
four miles and a half long and three wide ; but within this incloTnrc arc
many gardens, and fometimcs even fields} the number of hoiifcs is
6950. The city is more remarkable for the elegance of the building;
than for its wealth or indullry, many beautiful houfeb bein^ let m
ftories to mechanics. Next to Berlin may b« mentioned Konigfborj,

^ • Cojk'»Tnr. iato Tol. &c. i. 19I«

' t Rd'bcck's Tnv. Ui. 44,

i)i

PRUSSIA.

18^

f wliicli tlie population is computed at about 52.606^, This city \va§
founded in tlie thirteetitli ctiitury, and is well fortified. It maintains-

jQpfjderiible trade by the rivtr ^Pregcl, which flows into the gulf of
Uant/.ick.

Drena\\'» the capital of Silefia, has been long celebrated as one of the
moll beautiful cities in Germany. It is of uncertain antiquity, but
vasdeltroycd by tho Tatars in the thirteenth century. The populat!o»
i?atlealk equal to that of Konlrr(berfr ; and it has feveral manufadurcs,
the linens of Silefia being particularly celebrated. The ruling religion ia
tliat of Luther.

Among the chief cities of rru.Tia muft not now be forgotten War-
fj^v tlie former capital of Poland ; and Dantzick, an independent city
of ancient f^me. Warfaw (lands partly in a plain, partly on a gentle
afceiit rifmg from the Viftula, but the appearance is melancholy, from
the general poverty of Poland under its former unhappy government **
'flie population was computed at 70,000. including the unfortunate
fuburb of Praga ; but it muft have been much thinned by the deftru£Uve
fword of Suwarrow. Yet Hoeclc ftates it at 66,572.

Dantzick, now loit to Fruflia, contains about 36,000 inhabitants, and
wab known as a commercial town even from the tenth century. It was
canfidered as the chief city of the Hanfealic league, and was enlarged
and adorned by the knights of the Teutonic order. It muft ftill be
confidered as the chief itaple for the exportation of the corn and the
clicr produ£ls of Poland : but its commerce has been for fome time oa
tlic decline. ^ , _ _

A few other cities of the Pruflian don-.lnions dcferve geographical enu-
^oration, in a progrcfs from the more ancient territories in the weft, to
'e recent acquiikionsin the eaft.

"le electorate of Brandenburg, and in the adjoining duchy of Magf*^
v on the well, may be named Brandenburg, a fmall city of 60CO
iuiiaoitants ; and Frankfurt on the Oder which contains about i6,OQO<
Potfdam, a recent city, is fituated on an ifland, amidit lakes and canalit
and no cxpcnce has been fpared in its decoration. The royal caftle
wasbwilt in 1 663, and it has Hncc been a favourite refidcnce of fevend
Prtifilan monarciis. The inhabitants arc computed at 26,000* The
otliLT cities, or rather towns in Brandenburg, feldom contain 500O in-
habitants i but the duchy of Magdeburg prcfents the capital fo called,
which is fuftpofed to hold about 26,000 fouls, and is Urongly fortified
nith a citadel on an ifle in the Elbe. This city dates its origin from the
time of Charlemagne ; and can boail of elegant ftreets and flourifhidr
inanufa(5tures. llie Imperialills taking it by ftorm in i63it a dreadful
(laughter cnfued, the inhabitants who pcrifhed being computed at about
iciooo. In the lame duchy, but disjoined by part of Upper Saxoflft
llandi alfo Halle on tlie Saale, more than Hfty miles to the S. of Mag-
deburg: the inhabitants of Halle are computed at 2l»ooo. Nor mud
Halbcrll?dt, the capital of an adjoining principality, be omitted, u it
contains about 12,500 ibuls ; in which number it is rivalled by Quedlin*
burg in the fame province. The Weftphalian dominions of Pruffift
preient no city of much account, and the remote town of Neufefaatal
contains only aoout 6000 fouls.

On proceeding to Pomerania on the N. firft occurs Stettin» a city on
the Oder of fome trade, and ab^t 18,000 inhabitants. Thofv of StaK^
gard, iu Farther Pomerania, are not eftimated at) above (eoo.

• Con's Pbl. 1. 80«.

mtimita^J^^"-

t^t

!»RUSSIA.

In Pruflia, properly fo called, may be named Elbing, v/hkh. is fun-
pofed to hold 14,000 fouls. The other fecondary towns rarely exceeded
3000 inhabitants, till acquifitions of adjacent territory gave to Pruflia
Thorn, with a population of 1 0,000. Excepting Breflaw, the capital
already mentioned, there are only three towns in flilefia, which contain
more than 6000 inhabitants; namely Glogau, Hirfchberg, and
Schweidnitz. Nor, if we exclude Warfaw and its fuburbs, do any of
the towns recently acquired in Poland even equal this population.

Edifices.] Some of the moft fplcndid edifices of this country adorn
Berlin the capital, fuch as the palace and the theatre. But the other
grand buildings feem not to have imprcffed travellers with veneration
being barracks for foldiers and the like *. And the city itfelf is almoft
entirely built with brick, though the fronts of the houfcs are difguifed
with llucco. The palace at Potfdam defcrvcs fuperior applaufe ; and
on an eminence near the pity (lands the royal villa of Sans Souci, whidj
however can claim no grandeur of external archite<fturc. Konigfberff
and Dantzick, alfo offer to view refpcftable public buildings ; but in ^e!
ncral this kingdom yields even to Ruflia in this refpeft.

Inland navigation.] The advantages of inland navigation feem little
known or cultivated in the Pruffian dominions ; and though feveral fmall
canals might be mentioned, yet 'hey rather belong to the office of the
topographer than to a general fyftem of geography.

Manufactures and commerce.] If we except the linens of Silefia,
the manufactures of the Pruflian dominions are of fmall importance. Yet
they afford, for home confumption, glafs, iron, brafs, paper, and woollen
cloth ; and Frederick II. introduced a fmall manufadure of filk. Even
the exports of Dantzick confift almoft entirely of timber, corn, tallow,
and fimilar articles.

If we except the ancient ftaple of grain, fo abundant in the level plains
of Poland, the commerce of Pruflia is comparatively of but little confe.

Jiuence. Amber is bv nature conftituted a monopoly of the country, but
afliion has rendered this branch of commerce infignificant. Yet among
theconfiderable exports may be named excellent timber of all kinds, l]<ins,
leather, flax, and hemp ; nor muft the linens of Silefia be paflV-d in filcnce,
many of which are fent into Holland, and fold under the name of Dutch
manufacture. In return, Pruflia receives wine, and other products of more
fouthem and favoured countries.

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL OEOGHAI'llY.

CRmate and Seafons.-^Face of the Country.— Soil iitid j^frricufture.—'River.'.
^~Lakes. — Mountains.'— Forefts.— Botany. — Zo»/ogy.-—AIineralogy.-^
Minera! IVaten. — Natural Cur'tofit'ut,

THF d
18, U

limate of the

pon the whole, cold

Pruflian doniinions
and moill.
Brandenburg and Pom^ania may be regarded as more free from humidity,
than Pruflia Proper, which, as Bufching informs us f , has about eight
months of winter, the autumns being often deluged with rain. The nor-
thern part of Poland, which has fallen under the Pruflian fceptre, abounds
with forcfts and marflies, which cannot be fiippofcd to render the air falu*

• WrsMll's Mem i iOI.

» 1 iii. 3,

hriuud

PRUSSIA.

19*

litiouS' The lower parts of Silefia are regarded as the moft healthy and
fertile provinces of the monarchy ; but the fouthern and weftern parts of
^t duchy» bordering on elevated mountains, long covered with fnow,
^expofed even in fummer to fevere freezing gales.

FaC£ of the country.] In confidering the general appearance of
(hefeextenfive regions, Brandenburg is a fandy and barren country, but
PrufliaProper formerly abounded in woods, and difplays fuperior fertility,
acharafter which may be alfo extended to Pruffian Poland, an immenfe
plain. Silefia, on the contrary, difplays a pleafing diverfity, being level
}iiiiopen towards Poland, but Separated from Hungary on the S. by the
(^jrpathian mountains, a branch of which proceeding N.W. divides this
country from Moravia and Bohemia. It is every where watered by the
Oder and its tributary dreams 1 nor is there any deficiency of rivers in the
(ther parts of the Pruffian fovereignty.

Soil and agriculture.] The foil of Brandenburg is meagre, and
(ten the fpace between Berlin and Potfdam refembles a wildernefs ; but
that of Pruffian Poland is loamy and fertile, /rhe northern extremity of
Slefia refembles Brandenburg, yet this province is in general extremely
productive, and abounds in fruits and culinary vegetables.

Agricultural improvements are little known, and Brandenburg chiefly
produces buck wheat and turnips, with fcanty crops of rye ; but Pruffia
Proper and the Polifh provinces difplay every kind of grain and efculent
plant that can flourifli under fuch a latitude ; and among the productions
of Silefia mud be clafTed maize, and even vines, but the wine is of inferior

The peafants, though opprefTed by heavy taxation, being free from the
tanton extortions, and capricious perfonal lerviceB, exacted by the Polifh
ariftocracy, difplay figns of comparative eafe and profperity. In different
parts of Silefia the land is let in farms, as in England, and the peafants
hired as day labourers ; while under the detcilable government of Poland
they were mere flaves, and every avenue to induftry was barred.

RiVEH-s.] Among the chief rivers of the Pruffian dominions may be firfl
mentioned the Elbe, which rifes in the S. of Bohemia, and pervades the
duchy of Magdeburgh. The Spree, which pafles by Berlin, falls into the
Havel, a tributary of the Elbe. The Oder, the Viadrus of the ancients*
maybe regarded as a rivir entirely Pruffian : it rifes in the mountains of
Moravia, and, after watering Silefia, Brandenburg, and Pomerania, joins

I the Baltic, after a courf«.* of about 350 miles. Next appears another noble

I itream, the Viflula, which, rifing in the Carpathian mountains, paffes
Warfaw, and joins the fea near Dantzick, after a circuit of about 4^0

I miles. The rregel, paffing by Konigfbcrg, I'prings from fome lakes and
(natdies in Pruffian Poland ; and the Memcl, a fuperior river, now forms

I in part the Pruffian boundary on the ealt.
Lakks.] The lakes in the Pruffian dominions arc numerous, efpecially

I in the ealfern part, where amonpf others may be mentioned the Spelding
See, which, with its creeks, extends more than twenty Britifh miles in
every diredion. That region contains many other lakes, which fupply the
fiiurces of the river Pregel. At their efluarics the rivers Oder, Viftula*
ind Memcl, pr^'fent Angular inland fheets of water, in'the German Ian-
page called Haffs ; that of the Oder being flyled Grafs HafF; that of the
Vidula, FrifchHaff (with another inland creek called the lake of Draiifen) t
and that of the Mcmel, Curifch HafT. The Frifch HafF is about feventy

bileg in length, and from three to ten miles broad, being feparated fronv

|tlic Baltic by a long flip of land, laid to have been thrown vp by the tern-

•) p''il«

i^i

I>RUSSIA;

pefts ancl waves about t!ie year 1190* This lake, or bay, is of fmail
depth, and vrill not admit veflels of much burthen *. .

The Curifch Haif, fo called from its iltuation in the ancient duchy of
Courland, is about 60 Britiih miles in length, and about 30 in its greateft
breadth. A fimilar ridge of land divides it from the Baltic ; and it is fuU
of dangerous (helves, and infefted by frequent ftorms.

Mountains. J Magdeburg, Brandenburg, Pomerania, Pruffia, and Po.
land, are in general level countries ; and the only mountains in the Pruffiarf
dominions ar? thofe df Silefia. The mountains in the S. and W. of thii
province may be regarded as a northern branch of the Carpathian chain
which itfelf forms the mod fouthern boundary. This branch extends
from Jablunlca S»E. to Friedberg in Upper Lufatia, N.W. near 203
Britifli miles in length, and is calfed Sudetifche Gebirge, or the Sudetic
mountains. In the north-weftern parts of Silefia are al^ detached moun.
tains of confiderable height f, as the Spitzberg and Gratzberg. Their
precife heiffht fecms not to be afcertained, yet they may fafdy he con.
jeluded to yield greatly to the Carpathian chain, an account of which will
be found in the defcription of the Auftrian dominions.

Forests] Few parts of the Pruffian kingdom are deftitutc of woods
and forefts, which particularly abound in Pruflla Proper, and in the recent
Polifli acouifitions. Towarus Hungary, Silefia prefents a continuation
of thick forefts, which confpire with the elevated mountains to form an
impenetrate barrier.

Botany.] The indigenous vegetables of the Pruflian dominions l\9ve
hitherto been viewed in only a very curfory manner. Among thefe there
do not feem to he any which have not already bceft fufficientiy noticed in I
the preceding accounts of Britain and Audria. The mountainous ridges
of Prudicubeing few, and of little importance, there is in confequence a
great deficiency of alpine plants, the prevailing vegetables being thofe that
iniiabit level and fandy diftrifts. Tobacco, originally a native of America,
and probably alfo of the eaft, having been long cultivated in Pruffia, has
at length eftablifhed itfelf in the foil, and is found in the ploughed fields and
Jicdges as a common weed.

■ Zoology.] The breeds «f horfes and cattle feem not to have impreffed
travellers with any diftindion from thole of the adjacent countries; and
few parts are calculated fur excellent breeds of iliecp. The urus, or large
and ferociouewild cattleof Lithuania, have alfo a{)peared in Pruflla Proper,
but the race feems nearly extinft. One of ics chief hamits was the forell oJ
Mafavia, not far from Wa»fa\v.

Mineralogy.] The mineralogy of the PnifHan dominions will i:otj
kfTord an extenfive theme. Sand and .plains rarely contain minerals, aiiJl
even the mountains of Silefia boaft of few hidden treafrres. Yet in tlicl
fouthern dillrifts of that province there were formerly mines of jrold and]
iUver« but the produce did not defray the expence. Mines of copper antl
lead, however, flill exift, and there arvc confulerable founderlcs of iro::
Agates, jafpers, and rock cr) (lal, are alfo found in the SilcAan mountams.l
Coal» a more ufeful mineral, occurs in various parts of Silefia, :itid tin- levrll
diftrifts fo«ietimcfl offer good peat moors.

But the mofl diflinguifhed and peculiar mineral produi^ion of Pruffia hI
amber, which is chiefly found on the Samland (horc of the Baltic, near]
Fillau, on a neck of land formed by the Frifch HafF, which feems to havel
bean the chief feat of this mineral from the earlicft ages. It is found at tlisl
depth of about 100 feet, repofing on wood coal, in lumps of various lizc^il

* BuTcliiitg, Ui, 19.

I lb. vi, 314,

fomel

foiuel

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21^

and

<!> lor^iutdt Kart /h>m Gn)enwu h.\i

fhi" CoalViroiuTolluo, tl>i- Jiii.>.i'ior(>iirt TiMm Lojw».

^_f^^lPS'.y.,^l., f-flf-I^r- .

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I W^J3«.'diiij;<r/5^^;»/l,j/«iA»>/rtr

tJiriiftonera if ii- \ 1,1,0 V..<^ 'T

[1 <:^*iW,3 iHeu ^'■^'•'•' KroiiioiilciivP^VVrA/r

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J'Jff^k V.M ^ (nvhrera /■

lifnitlt'fnic

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1' • re— Ji - -t— »ii-.ill u.-t^ji-Ti — trr. — r-lr-rj7rl[' i. — ]m' IM v. 1

6 tot^Uudt Kaft lypm Grrtnwi dt. \ i

•:■■/:

PRUSSIA.

»9J

fome five pounds in weight, and is often waflied on fhore by tempefts. It
adds about ^oool. yearly to the royal revenue.

Mineral waters.] Silt-fia prefentt one fpring of hot water at Warm-
brun, near Hirfchbcrg, which is believed to be the only mineral water
worth notice in the Prullian dominions.

Natchal CURIOSITIES.] The Sudetic chain of mountains has been
little explored, and the level parts of the Pruffian dominions can, of vourfef
afford few obje(£ts of natural curiofity, if we except the mines of amber
abov'c mentioned.

4 : : SPAIN.

\ CHAPTER I.

HISTORICAL OEOGRAPHY.

ifames. — Extent.— Boundaries.-— Original Population ."-Progre^'ve GeOgrO'
fhy. — Hi/loriqal Epochs. — Modem Divifionst—and jinttquitiet,

y, -| THHOUGH Spain appear to hare been known to the
WAMES.J JIL Phoenicians, who imported from it large quantities o(
filver near looo years before the birth of Chrift, and their Tarfifh to have
kocn the little ifle of Tarteflus near Gades, yet it feems hardly to have
been difclofed to the Greeks in the time of Herodotus. When the Greeks
edablifhed a colony at Marfeilles, they muft, not long after, have difco-
vered the northern part of this fertile region ; which,from the noble river
Iberus, or £bro, they called Iberia ; and, from its extreme fituation in
the weft, it was alfc ftyled Hefperia. The Romans, probably from a
native term, have fixed and handed down///^a»;(7y which has been varioufly
adapted to the idiom of modern languages.

Extent.] Spain lies between tne 36th and 44th degrees of north
latitude ; and its weftern extremity is about 9^. in longitude W. from
London. The greateft length W. to E. is about 600 miles ; the breadth
N.to S. more than 500 ; thus forming almoll a compact fquare (if we
include Portugal in this general view of the country), and furroundcd on
all fides by the fea, except where the Pyrenean chain forms a grand natural
barrier againft France *. But as the prefent eftimate muft exclude
Portugal, which is referved for another article, it may be oblerveri, that
the boundaries betwixt thefe two kingdoms depend on artificial con-
ventions, and not on' rivers or mduntains, or other remaikable features of
feparation. Spain is fuppofed to contain about 148,000 fquare miles ;
which, eftimating the population at 1 1,000,000, yie d 74 pcrfons to the
mile fquare.

Original population.] The original populationK)f Spain feems to
have confifted of Celts from Gaul, and of Moors, Mauritani, from .Africa;
but the latter, a more warlike race, expelled the former, and even pafled
into Aquitain in France. After the German Gauls had colonized the

* The river Bidafoa form$ the W. boundary, and near its mouth is the iflc of Phcafantt.

InuD; near the BidiUoa, is Uw iaft town in Spain. Dilionj 16^.

fouth

>, aa!|Mgi=..- ^^-,-||||...

194

SPAIN.

fouth of modern France, where they were the Galli Braccati of antiqnitr
they began to make expeditions into Spain, and ft-ized tlie region to the
N.E., becoming the Celtiberi of claflical geography. Hence tlie namen
of rivers and mountains in Spain rarely difplay a Cehic origin, being often

- . benig often

African, and unlike thofe to be found in other parts of Europe, ihough
recorded many centuries before the arrival of the Mahometans ; and often
Gothic, though mentioned before the Gothic invalion in the fifth century,'
It 18 probable that the African fettlers were not a little aluited in tlie n'.
pulfion of the primeval Celts by the Phoenicians, and afterwards by the
Carthaginians, whence the latter maintained fuch fv\'ay in diftant parts of
this country. But the retords of Punic hiilory being lolt, we mull be
contented to begin with the African colony ; which was fuccceded, pro.
bably about i^o years before the Chriftian sera, by the incurfions and
fottlement of the Celtiberi, and other Gaulic colonies, who were only
llyled Celts, as having palfed from Celtic Gaul. Towards the eaft mull
be added large colonies of Carthaginians, and afterwards of Romans ; for
this country,, which rivalled Itnly in foil and climate, invited an unufual
number of the latter, and produced many clafTical authors. From its
natural fituation, Spain has derived a greater mixture of inhabitants than
perhaps any other European country. In the fifth century it was con-
quered by the Vandals; but, being afterwards weakened by their ffttle.
mcnts in Africa, they were fubdued by the Vifigoths, who founded the
modern'kingdom of Spain, and from witom the more ancient families Hill
pretend to derive their origin. The Mahometan Moors havihg been ex-
pelled, they muft not be conlidcred in the eilimate, though a few families
may be of Arabian extraft : and the modern Spaniards may be confidered
as defcended from the African Iberians, the Celtiberians, or German
Gauls, the Romans, and the Vifigoths.

PiloGKE.ssiVE GEOGRAPHY.] The progfeflive geography of Spain is
alfo very various. Little is known till the Roman coiique'.i, when Spain
was divided into three provinces, Tarraconenlis, or tlie N. E. half of
Spain ; Boetica,orBeticain the S. ; and Lulitaniaon llie we^l, extending
from the river Duro in modern Portugal on the norih, to the prel'ent
boundary of that kingdom on the fouth. After tlie lubjeAion by the
Vifigoths thefe divifions feem to have pail'ed into oblivion ; but the con-
quell by the Moors eftablifhed a new and important dillmition in vSpanifh
geography, that of Chriilian and Mai,o;netun Spain ; and which is in
iome meafure blended with tlie topic next to be confidered.

HlsTOKiCAL EPOCHS.] The chief hillorical epochs of Spain are;

1. The original population by the Africans and German Gauls.

2. The Carthaginian acquifitions in Spain.

3. Tiie conquell by the Romans, who maintained pofleffion for more
tliun five centuries.

4. The fubjetlion of Spain to the Vandals, about the year 415.

5. The conqued of Spain by the Viligoths under Euric, excepting
Galicia, held by the Suevi, who had entered with the Vandals. The
Galicians have to this day a diftincl character of fuperior induilry. In
Euric, A. D. 472. commences the modern kingdom, and hiltory of
Spain. •

6. Tlie conqueft by the Arabs, or Moors, which began A. D. 709,
and foon extended over all Spain, except the mounlfains of Afturias,
where king Pelagius maintained a conhned dominion over that diHrict
and Bifeay. P^is defcendunts fixed their royal refidence at Oviedo, built
in 761, and not only defended their fmall territory, which was naturally
fortified with cliains of mountains, but foon regained Galiciaj and part

- • • . ofl

SPAIN.

«9S

of Leon and Caftille. In 914, as the territory extended towards the
fuuth, the kings began to relide at Leon, and thence derived their title ;
to which, in the eleventh century, was added that of Calliile. But the
j^oors mud be regarded as the chief poffefTors of Spain till the middle of
the thirteenth century.

7. The Moorifli fettlements in Spain were conduced by governors ap-
pointed by the chahfs, till A. D. 75'6. when Abdoulrahman Icizod the
fceptre of Spain, and became the Moorifli king of Cordova, and firft
chalif in the welt. His fuc<ieflbrs continued to difplay great v.-ealth and
power ; and under their fway the commerce of Spain became very exten--.
jive*. This dynafty continued till A. D. 1038, when the Spanifli chali-
fatc expired, and the Moorifh governors of feveral provinces ufurped the
royal ftyJe, in Cordova, Seville, Valentia, and Granada ; who never-
thelefs rivalled the fmall Chrittian kingdoms of Spain.

8. The kingdoms of Caftille and Leon fometimes fell to diftinft heirs j
and the hiftorical confufion is increafed by the fmall kingdom of Na-
varre, the capital of which was Pampalona, a royalty which comr
nienced A. D. 857 ; by that of Arragon, A. D. 1035 ; and other
fub-divifions.

9. The reign of Alphonfo the Wife, which began A. D. I2?2, and
which rivalled thofe of the Spanifh chalifs in tjie piote£tion afforded t9
the arts and fciences.

10. Theconqueft of the kingdom of Granada, the laft "-jf the Moor-
ilh royalties ; and the jun£^ion of the important crowns oi CaftiUe and
Arragon, in the perfons of Ferdinand and IfabcUa.

11. The reign of Charles V., fon of Philip of Auftria, whor vried
the heirefs of Arragon and -Caftille, and eftabh(hed the Spanifli . o' archy
on its prefent bafis. The wealth of America, difcover^^fl w the reign 01
Ferdinand and Ifabella, now began to impart exubera; , iuj plies, aod thr
power of Spain arrived at its zenith. . , .

13. Acquifition of Portugal by Philip IL A. D. \ 1580.

13. The revolt of Portugal, under Philip IV., A. D. 1640; which
has lince exilted as a feparate kingdom, after having been fubjedl to tlie
Spaniards for fixty years.

14. The termination of the Auftrian dynafty by the dc^^lh of Charles II.
Nov. I, 1700 ; and the accefiion of the Houfe of Bourbon ; fmce which
no epoch of lingular uonfequence has arifen.

Divisions. 3 The moft recent fubdiviilons of Spaitf are into the fol-
lowing provinces : •7/,: ; ' •*

Galicia.
Afturias, including Oviedo and San-

feffion for more ■ o„ tl^e gay of gjf^ay

r I. Galicv

2. Afturi

— \ tili>.

On the French frontier

(Jn the Mediterranean coaft

On the entrance to the StraitB
of Gibraltar

he StraitB f

Bifcay> including Bifcay^ Guipufooe
and Alava.

Navarre. l!-.-t ; ; , r *'•■■■. ^ ■

Arragon. / ll. .-i'. .itJ .
Catalonia. = ' f 1 ; - i\ '-

7. Valencia. • . ' ' ••' ' >. .-!.•- , s

8. Murcia. '{i ' .-«■'.' '■ > -i >> ■>: ■><,.
g. Granada.

ip.Andalufia, including Seville^ Cor-
dova, and Jacn. :% .

* Hift. ik VA(t^.MHji»i'Efy. fout la Domiutiva iet Ankv, far
Full, 17«», i volfi laaui,

O a

M. Cudonne.

0»

II 11

156

On the frontiers of Portugal

SPAIN.

{ti. Eftremadura. ^

i». Leon, including Leon, Palenda
Zamora, and Salamanca. '

^fldIand *- —

■

13. Old Caftille,including Burgos, Avila
and Segovia. *

New Caftille, including Toledo or
Algarvia, Cuenca or La Sierra,
and La Manclia.
Antiquities.] Of the firft epochs it can hardly be fuppofed that
any remains (hould exift, except a few tumuHj and other rude menu.
ments. Nor are there any certain relics of the Carthaginians in Spain '
except coins, which have been found in coniiderable numbers.

The Roman antiquities are, on the contrary, fo numerous, that to enter
into details on the fubjed Would be prolix, and foreign to the nature of
this work. The aqueduA at Segovia is one of the nobled of the Roman
edifices *. Morviedo, the ancient Saguntum, prefents many curious re-
mains of antiquity. Tarragona, the ancient Tarraco, alfo contains fe.
Vend intereftine monuments.

The Vifigothic kings have left few relics, except their coins, whicli are
ftruck in gold ; a metal then unknown to the other European mints, and
feemiogly native. The churches, &c. of that period were probably de.
ftroyed by the Moorifh conqueft.

Numerous and fplendid are the monuments of the Moors in Spain.
The mofque at Cordova was begun by A bdoulrahman, the fiift clialifF,
The fecond chalif of that name reared the walls of Seville. But thefe

Erinces were far exceeded in magnificence by Abdoulrahman III., who
uilt a town three miles from Cordova, which he called Zebra, after the
name of one of his female favourites ; and ordered a palace to be con.
flru£led by the mod (kilful archited^s of Conftantinople, then the chief
abode of the arts and fciences (A. D. 9^o)f . In this palace were
reckoned 1 01 4 columns of African and Spanifh marbles : while Italy had
fupplied 19, and the Greek emperor had tranfmitted 140 of furprifing
beauty. The hall was decorated with marble and mafly gold ; and in
the nudft of the ceiling was hung the famous pearl which the emperor
Ia>o had fent to the chalif. The palace of Zehra appears to have been
annihilated in the barbarous and fanatic wars of the middle ages : and
Granada, the lad Mooriib kingdom, having hten fubdued after the
arts and fciences began to revive, it is natural there to cxped tlie bell
preferred remains of Morefque antiquity. Nor will their Alhambra
difappoint this expc£iation, as the reader may judge from Mr. Town*
fiend's dcfcription :

** You enter firft into an oblong court of 1 50 feet by 90, with a bafuii
ef water ip the midft, of 100 feet in length, encompaitod by a flower bor.
der. At eaeh end is a colonade. From hence you pafs into the court
ef the Uons, fo called becaufe the fountain in the middle is fupported by
thirteen liont. It is adorned with a colonade of ulo marble pillari.
The royal bedchamber has two alcoves, adorned witn columns, and a
fountain between them, in the middle of the room. Adjoining to thii
are two hot baths. The great hall is about 40 feet fquare, and 60 u
height* with cifirht windows and two doora, all in deep recefTes. Between
tkia and the oblonff court is a gallery of 90 feet by 16. AU thefe lower
apiltmenta hare rountains, and arc paved cither with tileii or nuurblei

• T9nlm^ni,'i.f.it%*

f CildoHtyubifarn*

SPAIN.

•»97

in cheq"f '• The idea of the ceilinjra is evidently taken (rom Jlahaltes,
or drop-ftones, found in the roofs of natural caverns. The ornament*
of the friezes are arabefque, and perfeftly accord with the Arabic infcrip-
tions, whiclr are here fuitcd to the purpofe for v liicti each apartment was
jefijrned." Above is a fuit of elegant apartments for the winter. This
edifice was finiftied A. D. 1336.

The Chriftian antiquities of the middle ages confid of numerous
(hurches, caltles, and monalteries, as ufual in other European coulitries.

CHAPTER II.

POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Jtttmon- ^-iccleftafltcal Geography. — Governmeni. — Lawt.— Population,-^
Colonies,— Army. — Navy, — Revenues,— Political Importance and Re-
lations.

^ '' I ^HE religion of Spain is the Roman Catholic, which
KELiGi .J Jl^ jjj jj^j^ country and Portugal has bees carried to a
pitch of fanaticifm unknown to the Italian dates, or even to the papal
territory. The inquifition has, in thefe unhappy kingdoms, been invefted
with exorbitant power, and has produced the moll ruinous effeds, and
though the evil has been recently fubdued in a confiderable degree, one
fanatic reign would fuffice to revive it.

Ecclesiastical geography.] According to the returns made t*
the government the Spanifh clergy Hand as foUows :
Parochial clergy, called curas — — .

Afli Hants, called tenientes curas — " -

Sacrittans or Sextons — — —
Acolitos, to aflill at the altar -» —
Ordinados de patrimonio, having a patrimony of three' _

reals a day — —

Ordinados de menorcsi with inferior ecclefiadical '

orders — — —

Benefiii^iados, or canons of cathedrals, and other'

beneficiaries — —

Monks — — — .

Nuns _ _ — ,

Deatas — — — -

Syndics, to collect for the mendicants —
Iiiquifitors —.—. — .

16,689

5.77*
10.875

»3»H4

»o»744

«3»692

61,617

32»5oo

M30

4»"7

118,62^

The archbifhoprics are eight : biflioprics forty-fix. The moft opulent
fee if that of Toledo, which is fuppofed to yield annually about 90,0001*.
TheMozarabic miflal, compofed by St. Ilidore for the Gothic church,
after the converfion from Arianifm to the Catholic faith, continued iu
be ufed in Spain till the Moors were fubdued, when the Roman form
was introduced.

GovEiiNMENT.] The government of Spain ip well known to be de-
i))otic,the dates or cortcs having hardly been aflcmblcd fincc the time of

• Timnfpixl, I. Jll.
03

/ Charles

198

9!»A1N.

Charles V. But the defpotifm of the monarchy is here balanced by the
power of the church, to which the nobles are fubmiflivc devotees. It is alfa
tempered by many councils, who are refponfible for any unwife or un,
fuccefsful meafures. The chief councils in Spain are: i.Thatofdif!
patches, called alfo the junto or cabinet council, being compofed of the
king and his minifters of ftate. 2. The council of ftate, in which the
king prcfides, and of 'which the archbiftiop of Toledo is always a member
3. The royal council of finances, called the Hazienda. 4. Thefupreme
council of war. 5. The fupn'me council of Caftille. 6. The fupreme
council of Arragon. 7. The fupreme council of the inquifition. 8. The
royal council of the orders of knighthood, g. The royal council of the
Indies. 10. That of the Crufada, compofed of a commiflary general a
member of the council of Caftille, and another of that of Arragon
who arrange the fubfidies to be granted by the clergy, under the pre-
tiext of war againft the infidels. The grandees of the kingdom, who were
formerly ftyled the rich men, have feveral privileges; among which an
important one in their eyes is that of wearing their hats in the royal
prefence, which is however never done except at the nod of the fo-
vereign.

Laws.]] The laws of Spain are contained in feveral ancient codes •
and recourfe is alfo liad to the civil and canon law. The Efcrlvanos are
numerous, and inftead of explaining the codes, often impede tlie admini.
ftration of juftice. Miftaken mercy frequently retains criminals in lontr
durance, fo that when they are executed their offence is forgotten, and
the example of puni/hment become inefficacious.

Population.] The population of^this kingdom is compnted at
11,000,000 or 74 to a fquare mile; while France yields 174, and Eng.
land 169: nay the kingdom of Naples is computeo at aoi. This ftrik-
ing defeA of population has defcrvedly excited attention ; and among
Other reafons may be numbered the expulfion of the Jews after the con-
queft of Granada ; that of the Moors by Philip III.; the ccntagiou*
levers frequent in the fouthern provinces ; the inceflant inleftine wars,
f»r fevcn centuries carried on againft the Moors ; the emigrations to
'America, and the vaft numbers of unmarried clergy and monks.

In the year 1787, the population of Spain was tiius arranged*:

Males unmarried
Females ditto
Married men
Married women
Widows —

2,^26,729

2.753.224

1,947,165

1,943,49^)

462,2 ;S

10,368,150
Exclufive of the clergy, who are above enumerated, the numbers ot
each rank were thus calculated f ;

Men fervants — Criados «—

Day labourers — Jomaleros —

, Pcafants — Labradores —

Artifans — . ■ — —

Mnaufadlurers «• * ••

Merchants — —

' Knighta— Hidalgos — — _^,.,^,^

'*0f thcle laft> four hundred and one thoufand and forty are'^in thr|
provinces of the Afturias^ Bifcay, Burgos, Calicia, and Leon."

— 280,092

— 964,171

— 9«7.«97

— 270,989

— 39»7So

— 5[4.33.<>
~ 480,^59

* Townfand, «oi.ii. 113.

•^Ibkl.914.

CqLONI£$.j

SPAIN.

• 199

Colonies.] After the immortal drfcoveriirs of Chtiftoval Colon,
nllcd by writers in Latin Chriltopher Columbus, the Spanifh colonfcii
Iflon became numerous and cxtenfive, in the Weft Indies, South America,
and various i(les in the Pacific Ocean. No nation, except the Englifii,
can in this rcfpeft rival Spain. But the fuperior advantages of En^jland,
in religious and politicalxfreedom, have foon replaced the population
t!,ii8 withdrawn, 'while to Spain the wound has been incurable, as the
caiifes of depoTVul- .^on have gilways increafed.

Abmy.] 'i'le iipanifh armies, inilead of carrying terror even into
the braveft countries of Europe, as they did two centuries ago, are now
neither diftinguiflied by number, nor by difcipline ; the royal treafury
being fo much impovcridied, that a large force cannot be maintained.
In peace it is computed at about 60,000 : but in war the number iniglit
be fwelled to a great amount, by a popular monarch and an ample re-
venue. Of late Spain has paid confiderable attention to her navy, which
has however been crippled in the recent warfare with England. The
(hips of the liqe can fcarcely now be computed at lefs than fifty.

Revenvks.] The revenue of Spain may be calculated, as is believed,
jt five millions and a half ftcrlinfr money ; fo that each perfon pays tea
tliilliiigs to govonimcnt for protettion. In France, under the old go-
vernment, each perfon paid near twcntyfliillings : in England at prelent
fixtv lliillings. The expenditure now equals or exceeds the income; but
the nalional debt is a mere trifle. The belt judges of the fubjert infer
tiwt tiie colonies vi-^l 1 no dired revenue to Spain, it being confuined ui
thcexpences of uii government of ihofe dillant regions.

PoMTicAi. iMi'OiUANCE AND uiiLATJOxs.] The political import-
ance and relations of Spain were formerly deeply imprefied on molt
regions of tlie '•lobi.'. But, exhaulted by idle wars of ambition or ava-
rice, this fertile kingdom has become ahnoll a cypher in Europeaa
policy. Setting* alide Portugal, the pofition of Spain fecures her from
any invafion, except on the fide of France; and it becomes therefonr
the infuperable intercll of this cxhaulled ttate to cultivate amity with
lier powerful neighbour, wlijch muft maintain an unavoidable and fu-
premc afcendant, from geographic pofition and relative force. On the
other hand the dillance and importance of the Spanifli colonies render .i
war with England the greatell calamity tliat can befal them, as that
j)owrr, enjoying the unlimited dominion of the ocean, can inflidl dread-
ful wounds on the commerce and colonies of Spain. Such feent to be
the fole hinges of S])anilh polity, though ancient fame, and connexion*
with tlie royal families of more potent ilates, fecurc foinc degree of
deference to her councils and mediations.

• ,• CHAPTER III.

CIVIL fiEOURAPIlY.

fifmnfrt anrf Cufloms^ — Lmi^uage. — LUerature.-^EJucai'ton. — Unhvrjiiifs.
Cli'm iind Towns,— Etl'tfues — Roixds,-^ Inland Navigativn^—AlanuJaC'
turtt and Connnrrce.

T N fpeaking of the religion of Spain, one

Manners and customs.] ^ ^^^-^^^ ,^^,t ^^^.^^- ^^ the' national

ciiftoms and mnnners is the comrron pradtice of adultery under t]he maflc
of religion. Thi» difgracc, which is confined to the catlioU^fyftein* ia

O 4, faid

soo

SPAIN,

faid to have been tranfplanted ijrom Italy, But the Italian ae't/h '
more commonly gentlemen ; while in Spain they are monks and " '?"*
fiaftics ; and the vice becomes more flagrant^ as it is pra£lifcd bv th f
very men who ought to exiiibit examples of pure morality.

Exclufive oi this vice, the Spaniih ohara6ler is highly refpeftable f
integrity and a long train of virtues. Confcious of an upright and now'
mind, the refpeft which a Spaniard would pay to thofe qualities "^
others, is often centred in himfelf, as he is intimately fenfible that h"
pofleiTcs them. This felf-refpeA is nearly allied to pride ; but it is th*
pride of virtue, which certainly ought not to humble itfelf before vice
and folly. Temperance is a virtue which the Spaniard (hares in common
with other fouthern nations. In thefe countries the body is fo much
exhauded by the influence of heat, that the Hefta, or fhort deep in the
middle of the day, become*- a neceflary refource of nature, and ig bv
habit continued even in the winter. ^

The chief defeft in the character of the Spanifli nobility and gentry
if, their averfion to agriculture and commerce. Inftead of thofe beauti.
ful villas, and opulent farms, which enrich the whole extent of Enjrland'
the Spanifh architedure is almoft confined to the capital, and a few
other cities and towns ; and till farm-houfes are Icattered over the kinn-.
dom, it will be abfolutcly impofTible for agriculture to flourilh in Spain
To import German colonies, as has been done in the Sierra Morena jj
to bejrin at the wrong end, and to fuppofe that the poor can fet an ex.
ampk' to the rich. An intimate connexion and intermixture of all ranks
of men, and their mutual refpedl for each other, form a liberal fource of
the wealtli and power of tlie Briiilh dominions ; but Spain, perhaps
defpifes thg example of heretics.

Since the acceflion of the huufe of Bourbon, a flight fliade of French
manners has been blended with the Spaniih gravity. But fafhions have
here little fway ; and the prohibition of flouched hats and long cloaks
* led to a ferious infurreclien. The houfes of the great are large and
capacious ; but the cottages and inns are, on the contrary, mikrable.
The drefs and manners of the lower clalTes vary much in different pro.
vinces, and for a living pifiure of them, the reader may confult the
immortal work of Cervantes.

The amufements of people of rank chiefly confifl in dancing and
cards ; but the combats with bulls in the amphitheatres have juilly been
regarded as the mofl Itriking feature of Spanifh and Portuguefe manners.
That fuch fpedlades tend to familiarrfe the people with bloodlhed, feems
an idle theory, unwarranted by fa£ls. Modern Italy has no gladiators,
but numerous afFailins: ancient Rome had fcarcely one aflailln, but
whole armies of gladiators.

The chief aftors in the bulUfeafls are the picadors, who are mounted
on horfeback and armed with lances, and the chulos on foot, who relieve
and fullain the former \ but the chief perfonage is the matador, who
enters amid the profound filence of the whole affembly, and coolly dif.

Eatches the furicuis animal by a blow where the fpinal marrow joins the
ead. The death ii bloodlcU and inflantancous, and defervcs imitation,
as humanity would wifh to faw pain to the animals flaughtered for food.
Sometimes the bull is pierced in various parts with Tanccs, to which
fquibs are failened, which being fee on fire, the maddened animal flands
pawing the ground, while he draws in and exhales volumes of fmoke:
fometimes an American is introduced, who, after the mnnner of huntiiifi;
the wild bull in his own country, throws a rope round the horns, and
CBtangki the quadruped m in a aet| then kills him with perfed fafcty.

1 Lakouauc]

SPAIN.

20t

Iavouacb.] Tlie Spanidi language is one of the three great fouth-
«n dia'eds which fpring from the Roman ; but many of the words
l^ome difficult to the French or Italian ftudent, becaufe they are
derived from the Arabic, ufed by the Moors, who for feven centuries
held dominion in this country. The fpcech is grave, fonorous, and of
exqnilite melody, containing much of the flow and formal manner of
(be Orientals, who fcem fcnTible that the power of fpeech is a privilege.
LiTKRATUriE. ] The literature of Spain is highly refpeftable, though
little known to the other countries of Europe lince the decline of Spanifti
p»wer.

Among the fathers of literature in this country muft be named Ifidore
ofSeville, many of whofe works are e^wlant, and inferior in merit to few
of that epoch ; fuccelfive writers may be traced to the eleventh century,
when they became numerous : but before briefly mentioning fome
Soanifli authors poflt-rior to that period, it will be proper to recolleft,
that AraSian learning fuuriflied under the chalifs of Cordova, and pro-
duced tr.^v.y iUnllriuus names well known to the Oriental fcholar, as
Ab?ii R')e, or Averroc", Aben -Zoar, Rhazcs, &c. Many Jewiih
juthors alfo flourillied jn this country.

In the eleventh century, as already mentioned, the Spanifli authors
began to increafe in number, and the native lanjj-uage begins to appear.
This was the epoch of the famous CiJ or /orJ, Roderic de Bivar,
ffhofe iiluflrious adtions againft the Moors were celebrated in contempo-
rary Ionics, and by a long poem, written in the fueceeding century.
After the thirteenth century, it would be idle to attempt to enumerate
the crowd of Spanifli authors, among which are Alphonfo the Wife,
nho wrote the Lil>ro del Teforo^ a treatife on the three parts of philofo-
phy, rational, phyfical, and moral ; and at whofe command were com-
piled the famous Alphonfine tables of aflronomy.

Since the year 1 500, fcarcely can a department of literature be men-
tioned, in which the Spaniards have not excelled ; if we except natural
philofophy, the progrcfs of which has been checked by the inquifition.
It would be unneceffary to repeat the well known names of Cervantes^
Qiicvedo, Lopez de Vega, or other authors, whofe works are known
to all Europe. ^

Universities.] The univerfities, or rather academies, in Spain, are
computed at upwards of twenty: of which the moil noted is that of
Salimanca, founded in the year 1200 by Alphonfo IX. king of Leon,
[and afterwards regulated by Alphonfo the Wife. The ftudents have,
at former periods, been computed at 16,000; and, even now the reign
pf Arillotle in logic and natunil philofophy, and of Thomas Aquinas in
tk'uloj;)', continues unviolated, fo that a Uudcnt of the year 1800 may
afpire to an n)iv:h ignorance as one of the year 1300. In 1785 the
niimher of ftudents was computed at 1909 ■. The fame antiquated
twluT!. an! received with implicit faith in the other univerfities, fo that
liinori' lif)eril edueation at fchool mull be here obliterated.

CiTiKs a:;d towns J As a proper introdudion to a brief account of
llhechiff cities and towns of Spain, the following eilimate is fubjuinud
Ifrom m accurate author f .

Cities Ciudades . - . .

Borough towns —Villas ....

Villages — Lugones ....

Humltts-— Aldeas ....

'45

4.573

12,73a

1,058

• Tow«fcnd, ii 79.

t IbU. ii. 313.

Gcanjai-*

99*

SPAIN.

8t5
1.511

Granjas —Farm houfes - - , »

Cotos rcdondas — Parks or waftes inclofcd

Depopulated tqwiis^ ' - - . .

Pariflies - - - .

Convents - - - . .

Madrid, the royal refidence, wliile Seville is cfteemUd the capital ^r
Spain, is of recent fame. Philip II. firft. eftabliftied his court at Madrid
and the nobility, in confequence, eretling numerous palaces, this f '
merly obfcurc town be(ran to afTiime an air of grandeur. Tlie centric 1
pofition feems the chief advantage, for the environs can boaft of litt],,
beauty or variety. The river Mangenares is in winter a torrent b-t
dry in fummer: over it is an elegant bridge, which occalioned afarcaHif-
remark that the bridge fliould be fold in order to purcliafe water. This
metropolis contains 13 pariflies, 7,938 houfes, 32,745 families, amouiit.
inT to a population of 147,354 *• ^^^^ convents are 66 ; and tliere ar"
fifteen gates of granite, many of which are elegant. The chief is tlie 1
Puerta de Alcala, of three arches, the central being 70 feet in heiTht
The churches and monalleries contain many noblt paintings, ancfthe
royal palaces difplay confijerable magnificence. Th.e new palace m^A
fcnts four fronts of 470 feet in length, and 100 in height, enriched with 1
numerous pillars and pilafters. The foundation was laid in 1737, tlir.'c
years after the ancient palace had fallen a facrilice to the flames. The!
audience-chamber is dcfervccUy admired, b'-ing a double cube of no fe-f I
^ung with crimfon velvet, and adorned with a fumptuous canojn- anjl
painted ceiling. The prado is a fpacious courfe, in which the great dif.l
play their elegant equipages.

At Madrid arc the royal manufadnres of china, faltpotre, Sec. hntl
the city has little trade, and chiefly profpers by the j)refei)Ce of the
court, a!ul conlluence of the gr.-at, whofe rer.ts are remitted to t!i^
capital to the great injury of the kliiinlom at large.

Next in real importance to M idrid are tlie principal fea-ports, whicli
Rre enriched by commerce ; wlviL- the cities in the interior deciitie fron
the want of agriculture and iiihind navigation. The commerce of AmeJ
rica formerly centrrod aL Seville, but was afterwards removed to Cadi J
a city which is fuppofed to contain about 70,000 fouls f. ThetwotaJ
thcdrals are grand; and there is an hofpital which will contain 6coc[
patients. The hofpicio, or general workhoufe, is an interelling cllablilM
ment, containing more than 800 poor of all ages, who are litre trained
to induftry.

Malaga is eftcemed the fecond port in,the kiogdom, and i", alfo cdo
brated for excellent wines, the rich Malaga, the mountain, fo cwM
from the hills whicli produce the grape, and the tent or tinno, fo iUleJ
from its deep red tinge. Malaga Hands in a valley furrounded with hilli
the houfes high, the ftreets narrow and dirty. Inhabitants aboiii
40,000 : the cathedral, begun in 1528, is not yet finifht-d ; the convciiq
are 25, bn' of finall account %, This city fwarms with thieves and ircrt
dicantfi. The municipal govcnimcnt rolls with a corrcgidor or mayoi
appointed by the crown ; but the regidors or aldermen are hereditarjj
There are alfo two fyiidicos or tribunes to protect! the people.

Towards the S.li. is the third moft confiderablc port of Spain, tlJ
of Barcelona ;f. The Urects are narrow and crooKcd ; the chiirdij
rather rich tlian beautiful. The hofpicio contains about 1400 induftrio;
poor, and there is a houfc of corrcfticn which fonnetimes includen evd

•ToHtiftud, i. 2;»3. t I'''<1' ii*' 3/4. J Ibid. iii. !0, &c. 5 itid, i. 106.

«) womi

SPAIN.

203

mmenofrank, if guilty of drunkennefs or otlicr low vicos. The in-
ijljiljiits of Barcelona are computed at more tlraii 100,000; and iiiduftry
[ircvails here, being a native virtue of the Catalmiians : the chief manu-
Uures are lilk, cotton, and wool, ey.celljtit iirc-arms and eatlrry ; the
imports, corn, fifli, and woollen goods -. exports, w inc, brandy,
cloth, and leather. During peace it is Uippofed that looo veflelR ^nter
iliisport ; of which half are Spanifh, 120 Freiirh, 100 En;rh{h, and 6a
panes. Barcelona (lands in a plain open to the S.E. but protected by
liills on the north and well, being a ht»althy and delightful relidence ;
tut the eaft wind commonly brings fog, and produces fuch irritabiUiy
^i the bell friends at fuch periods rather wifli to avoid each other.

Along the northern ihores of Spain there are few harbours of any not?,
fhe moil remarkable is that of Corunna, by our mariners ftyled the
groyn. The harbour is large and fafe ; the town of a circular form ;
but the poverty of the furrounding province df Galicia affords few re-
jources for trade ; and many of the natives are difperfed over Spain and
efcn Portugal, as day labourers and f^rvants, being univerfally tfteemcd
for their probity and fidelity.

The chief inland cities of Spain fliall be briefly reviewed, beginning .
from the north. O viedo and I A'on are now incoufideriible, and only boalt
tlieir ancient fame, as fuccpifive capitals of Spaniih royalty, when llrug-
>|ing againft the Moors. The cathedral at Leon is admired for its ele-
pnt liglitncfs.

Pampalona the capital of Navarre, is more remarkable for 'the leam-
m of fome of its prelate* than for any other circumllance. The
inhabitants are about 5000. Burgos, the fee of an archSifhop, retains
veftiges of former opulence. Valladolid, in the fame province of old
Callille, contains fome woollen manufadures, and many goldfmiths and
iffellers.

' FiragoflTa, the chief town of Arragon, is the ancient C;efarea Augufta,
ind difplays many rich churches and convents *. The univcrfity contains
ibout 2000 ftudents. There are no manufaftures : though it is to be
hoped that thefe will, be encouraged by the great canal of Arragon,
projeded, like other Spanifh works, on a moil magnificent fcale, and of
the length of about 250 Englifli miles, from the mouth of the Ebro to
St. Ander, in the welCem extremity of Bifcay ; thus uniting the Medi-
ttn-anean with the Atlantic.

On the fouth of Madrid firfl occurs Toledo, a city of confiderable
fame, and remarkable fituation ; for the river Tajo, or Tagus, paffing
between two mountains of granite, almoft furrounds one of them,
onwhichis placed the city, arifing like a cone f . Toledo was formerly
the royal refidence ; and contains a grand palace, built in the reign
of Charles V. The manufaAure of arms was long famous, and has
been recently revived. The archbifhopric is computed at 90,0001. an-
nually ; but the inhabitants, once calculated at 200,000, are now reduced
1025,000. , ^

Badajos, in Eftremadura, is remarkable for its pofition on the very coa-
fines of Portugal, and is the fee of a bifhop. In the fouthern provinoes
appears Seville, famous till the year 1720, at the mart of American trade.
The inhabitants are computed at 80,000 ; and the churches and convents
are opulent and beautiful. The chief manufactures are filk, and recently
fnulfs (a royal monopoly), not only the common Spauidi, but rappee,
uit was found that the latter was fmuggled from France. The tobacco

* Townf«ml| i. 909.

t Ibid. i. 303.

employs

^*yiffifi'<Miiiiirii

204

SPAIN.

employs 220 manufadlurers, who are ftrlAly examined and ruardei!
Seville is efteemed the cliieF city of Spain. Madrid being only a to '
diilinguifhed by the royal refidence *. *"

Murcia, the capital of the province fo called, is of confiderable ac
count, and fituated in one of the moft beautiful vales iu Spain f . Tij"
inhabitants are probably about 60,000. There is a beautiful bridge over
the Segura ; artd the cathedral is lofty, but cannot boaft of internal opu-
lence or beauty.

Granada has been long celebrated as the paradife of Spain, though
the fouthern provinces be in general unhealthy. This city Hands in a
vale bounded by hills, beyond which to the fouth is the Sierra Nevada
fo called becaufe the mountains are covered with perpetual fnow. The
inhabitants are fuppofed to be 80,000 ; the Moorifli palace here has been
already defcribed ; and adjoining is a palace erefte^ by Charles V. The
cathedral and convents contain excellent pidures by Spaniih mafters.
The municipal government is in a corr»gidor and twenty -four regidors!
There are beautuul public walks, and the environs are delightful and well
cultivated J.

Edifices.] The moft remarkable edifices of Spain are the cathedrals
of the feveral fees, and the churches belonging to opulent convents. The
houfes of the nobility are confined, with few exceptions, to the capital
and other cities, inilead of adorning the country at large, as in England.
The palace and monaftery of the Efcurial have been defcribed at great
length by many travellers. It is feated in a deep recefs, at the foot of
high mountains ; and was built by that bigot Philip II. in the ilrange
form of a gridiron, the inftrumen't of the martyrdom of St. Lawrence,
upon whofe anniverfary the Spaniards gained the viAory of St. Quintin.
The convent is 740 feet by 580 ; and the palace forms the handle of this
imaginary gridiron. The paintings are excellent and numerous ; and
the vault containing the royal tombs is grand and impreflive. But the
palaces of Aranjuez and St. Ildefonfo are greater favourites with the
court. The gardens of the former, watered by the Tajo, are laid out
ina Juft and natural tafle. St. Ildefonfo is a fummer refidence, expofed
to the north. The Pardo, another palace, ftands in the middle of a Imt
foreft.

InIvAnd navigation.] The inland navigations of Spain, though
commenced upon united principles of grandeur and utilitv, have been
permitted to langui(h through the want of refources, and the flow mea*
fures of the court, rather than by any indolence of the fuperintendanti
and labourers. The great canal of Arragon feems to remain in a (late
of imperfedion, though we are told that two branches are completed
from the Ebro towards Navarre, and have been attended with the moft
beneficial confequcnces. Another canal was to begin at Segovia, or

* Dillon, 439. Dut the population of Madrid and Barcelona Ufar fuperior.

"f Townfend, iii. 130.

X nihraltar, fo called rrom a Moorifli or Arabic denomination, figaifying the moantaii I
•r Taiik, who rondtiAed the Moort into Spain, (fainiii on the weft fide itf a rockynKMu-l
tain ciAM Caipe by the ancient*; and to the weft of ttie town is a lai^v bay. In I4(l
it Mas taken (nnn the Moors j and in 1 704 fell into the band* of the Englifli. The rif;e|
during the American war is of frcfti and celebrated memory. Theinbabiianlsof tlietowgl
are about .iOOO; and the gairifon Rei.erally amounts to at many. The number indl
Arrngth of the miliiary works, atiH t4ic vaft galleries opened in the ralcareou»rock, cxcliel
admi.-aiinn. There it a flala^itic rave, that of St. Mirltael, and bones are found inl
the mrk, which ftf m to have fallen into the cavities, wiu.re they are envclo|)ed in (ImI
rxtiHiti^ pctretkAiuu. The iiiwtrifs, in il}« opiitiun of isott military men, it aiifulunlJ
iinprfgiuble. I

ab«ul|

SPAIN.

aojf

iljout 40 miles N. of Madrid, thence to extend to the bay of BIfcay.
This is tefmed the canal of Caftille. The cana'. of Guadarama was con-
duced with more fpirit, and is probably com^aleted. It was to open
(jar the Efcurial, and proceed fouth to the Tajo or Tagus.

Masufactures axd commerce.] The manufad:ures of Spain are
confiderably checked by the royal monopolies which extend to the fol*
lowing articles. • ,

Broad cloth, at Guadalajara and Brihuega.

China, at the palace of tne Buen Retiro.

Cards, at Madrid and Malaga.

Glafs, at St. Ildefonfo.

Paper, in Segovia.

Pottery, at Talavera.

Saltpetre, at Madrid and various other places.

Stockings, at Valdemoro.

Swords, at Toledo.

Tapeftry, at Madrid,

Tiflue, at Talavera.

The king hasalfo the monopoly of brandy, gunpowder, lead, quick-
flver, fealing-wax, fait, fulphur, and tobacco.

Many manufaftures are however condu6led in Spain with great fpirit
and afliduity ; and any failure mud not be imputed fo much to the
indolence of the people, as to the prejudices of the great and the
inquifitorial power of the eccledaftics, which cramps genius and inven-
tion of all kinds, and conftrains the mind to the fame perpetual circle.
Spain fupplies wines, oil, fruits, filk, leather, broad cloth, and other
articles to many European countries ; but her chief trade is with her
ovD colonies in America. The foil of Spain is exuberant in the pro-
duAion of faltpetre ; and the barilla, ufedin making glafs, has been Jong
celebrated.

In the year 1784 the exports from Spain to America were thus com-
I puled in pounds fterling *.

Spanl/h produce. Foreign product. Toted produce.

Cadiz,

Malagat

Seville,

Barcelona^

Corunna,

Santander,

Tortofa,

Canaries,

Gijon,

1,438,912

196.379

62,713

122,631

64.575
3<5.7»5

7.669
24.974

4.2i^i

2jx82,53t

i4.3P»

30,543
21,240

39.96 a

90.173
289

io,i9»

3,621,443
210,680

93.256
143,871

» 04.537
126,888

7.958
24.974
14.47 «

£.1,958,849 ;^. 2,389,229 ie.4,348,078

The duties were computed at 170,800!. . v

The imports from America to Spain were, »t t|ie fame timef thus efti*
Dtteaia toe (ame money :

• XMrsfeadf U. 4l>.

'"iHWWitmil^^'i

206

SPAIN.

Money and Jewels

Cadi/.,
Malaga,

8,297,164 .,

Barcelona,

Corunna,

iSantander,

Canaries,

102,140

741,285

40.84s
109,807

^'.9,291,237

/» Merchandlfe.

2,990,757
18,605

9».233

^ 90,001
100,974

52.366

"^•3»343»93<5

The whole imports therefore exceeded twelve millions and a half* the
Juty amounted to more than half a million.

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL OCOGRAPIIY.

Clhnate and Seafons. — Face of the Country. — Soil and y1gricuUure.'—Ri<o(f,^
— Lakes. — Mountiiiiu — Forefls. — Botany. — Zoology .—^Mineralovy.-,
Mineral Waters— h uiural Cur'tofu'us.

i ' i .,

r, T '' I HE climate of Spain has been defervedlv

Climate AXD SEASONS.] I -r , 1 -r * r .'•*"'''^^7

•J X prailed, as equal, It not fupenor tothati
of any country in Europe; but in the fouthern provinces the heat is]
infalubrious, and malignant fevers fomctimes fweep off great numbers,
The chains of mountains which pervade Spain at different intervals from I
E.toW., feem to temper the climate, and fupply cooling breezes. In|
the fouth the fea breeze, beginning about nine in the morning, and con.
tinuing till five in the evening, a^^reeably diverilfieg the warmth of the I
fummer ; and in the northern provinces the feverity of winter is allayedj
by the proximity of the ocean, which generally fupplies galos rallier]
humid than frofty. I

Face of the country.] The face of the country is in mod feafonjj
delightful, abounding with excellent and fragrant ' pallurage, vineyards,!
and groves of orange trees ; and the hills clothed with wild thyme and!
other odorous plants. The rivers and ftreanw are numerous'; and the!
chains of mountains afford a grand variety to the profpeft.

Soil and aguiculture.] The foil is generally light, and repofcson
beds of gypfum, or plafter of Paris, itfclf an excellent manure. «' Th
common courfe of hufbandry * about Barcelona begins with wheat;
which being ripe in June, is immediately fucceedcd by Indian corn.hempJ
millet, cabbage, kidney -beans, or lettuce. The fecond year thefe fami
crops fucceed each other as before. The n;'xt year they take barleyJ
beans, or vetches ; which, coming off the ground before midfummer,ar(
followed, as in the former years, by other crops, only changing themaci
cording to the feafon, fo as to have on tlie fame fpot the greateft pnfliblj
▼ariety." Wheat produces ten for one ; but in rainy feafons fifteenT
Near Cart hagena the courfe is wheat, barley, and fallow f. Forwhea
they plough thrice, and fow from the middle of November to the bcgia

* Towuffeiid, i. 179i

t Ibid. iii. 134.

• Near the
wiwintothcj

SPAIN.

207

^jnff of December : in July they reap from ten to one hundred for one, as
tiielfoJilon happens to be humid. The Huerta, or rich vale of Alicant,
riclJs a perpetual fuccelfion of crops. Barley is fown in September,
reaped in April, fucceeded by maize, reaped in September ; and a mixed
crop of efculents follow. Wheat is fown in November, and reaped
jn June , flax in September, pulled in May. In the vale of Valencia
wheat yields from twenty to .forty ; barley from eighteen to twenty-four ;
oats from twenty to thirty ; maize one hundred ; rice forty. In the
niore fouthern provinces the hnd is almofl equally fertile.; and the fugar-
cane is cultivated with fuccefs near Granada. Agriculture is greatly im-
peded in Spain by the fupcrior attention paid to the largfe flocks of flieep,
which are authorifed by a fpecial code, the mefta, to travel from one
province to another, as the feafon prefents pafturage in the vales, or on the
niountains. The Merino (heep, or flocks, thus privileged, are computed
at 5,000,000 ; and one nobleman has fometimes 40,000. The fleece is ef»
teemed doubled the value to that of other iheep ; but the checks given to
agriculture by fuch privileges, unKHOwMi to all other countries, are incal*
culable.

Rivers.] Among the chief rivers of Spain may be named the Ebroy
which anciently conferred an appellation on the country. This noble
Hream rifes in the mountains of Afturias, in a fmall vale E. of Reifona*
and purfuing its courfe to the S.E. enters the Mediterranean fea, after
havinc; run about 380 G. miles. The other rivers* running to the eaft
are of lefs importance, as the Guadalaviar, the Xucar, and the Segura,
wliich enlivens the fertile vales of Murcia. Towards the weft occurs the
Giiadalquivier, the ancient Ikrtis, which gave name to the province. This
river originates in the Sierra Morena, and flows into the gulph of Cadiz,
afttr a courfe of near 300 G. miles. The Guadiana rifes in the N. fide
of the Sierra Morena, according to Spanifli authors, though the chief
fources fecm rather to be in the mountains of Toledo : it purfues a- part
of its courfe through Portugal, and falls into the gulph of Cadiz,
after a circuit nearly equal to that of the Ebro. But the chief river of
Spain and Portugal is the Tajo, or Tagus, which rifes in the weil of
Arra^on, near Albarracin, in a fpring called Abrega *, and holds a
courfe of about 450 G. miles. The Douro fprings near the ruins of
ancient Nnmantia: and its courfe maybe computed at 350 G. miles.
The Minho rifes in the mountains of Galicia ; and is more remarkable
as forming a part of the boundary between that province and Portugal,
than for the length of its circuit, which does not exceed i6o G. miles.
Many other ftreams pervade the northern proviiKes, but not of fufficient
importance to be here commemorated.

L.'VKEs.] The lakes of Spain are fo few, and of fuch fmall extent,
that they fcarcely deferve notice. There is a finigular feries of fmall
lakes in the S.E. of New Caftille, to which fome alfign the fource of the
Guadiana.

Mountains.] The Spanifli mountains are arranged by nature in fe.
veral diitinft chains. The moft northern is regarded as a continuation of
the Pyrenees, pafling on the S. of Bifcay and the Afturias in Galicia.
This chain is diftinguiftied by different names, as the mountains of Bifcay,
the Sierra of Afturias, and the mountains of Mondonedo in Galicia. It
muft be here obferved that the term Sierra^ peculiar to Spain, implies a
chain of mountains, whofe fucceflive peaks prefent the refemblance of a

* Near the Sierra filanra, efleemed the higheft fuuauon ia Spain, as the Guadalaviar
|niitiatuthcM(!diten»n«ui. PiUen, aos.

faw.

«o8

SPAIN.

faiv. The gypfcous and argillaceous mountains of this country, rafelt
exhibiting any fupreme elevation, Hke thofe in the granitic chains' iiatu.
rally fuggefted this fingular appellation.

The fecond chain of Spatiifh mountant -xtends from near Soria
on the N.E. and purfues a S.W, direftliu -i; jjJs Portujral. Ti,i,
chain is Called that of Urbia or Guadarama \ and alfo the Monies Car.
fenianos *. The third is that of Toledo, running ne-rly parallel with
the laft. Thefe two central chains feem to contain great quantities of
granite.

Next towards the S. is the Sierra Morena, or Brown Mountains, which
are followed by the moft fouthern ridge, that of the Sierra Nevada.

One the eaft there is a confiderable chain, which connedts the two cen-
tral ridges, and advances towards the Mediterranean in the north of Va-
lencia. There are alfo feveral confiderable ranges of hills in this part of
the kingdom, generally running from N. to S,

A remarkable folitary mountain, not far from Barcelona, muft not be
omitted. At a diftance Montfeurat appears like a fugar loaf ; but on a
nearer approach feems jagged lilce a faw, with pyramidical rocks ; it is
compofed of limeftone and giavel united by calcareous cement : and is of
fuch a height that from its fummit may be difcerned the iflands of Ma-
jorca and Minorca, at the diilance of fifty leagues f. Not far from
Montferrat, near the village of Cardona, is a hill three miles in circum-
ference, which is one mafs of rock fait, ufed in the dry climate of Spain
for vafes, fnuff-boxes, and trinkets, like our Derbyfliire fpar.

The Spanifh fide of the Pyrenees has not been accurately examined ;
and as the French mineralogifts have amply iUullrated the part belonging
to France, an account of tliefe mountains has been given in the defcrip.
tionof that country. In the want of a general andfcientific account of
the Spanilh mountains, a few notices muft fuffice, extracted from diiFerent
parts of Townfend's tf'avels. Ao?prding to that intellirent obferverthe
northern fide of the Pyrenees is chiefly calcareous, furmounted with
argillaceous fchiftus ; but the fouthern is granite, and of courfe barren |.
The hills to the fouth of Gcrona are alfo granitic. The higheft ridge in
Spain, near Daroca, whence originate the Taja and Ebro, feems com-
pofed of argillaceous fchiftus and freeftone, probably refting on granite^.
Near Anchuela the mountains are limellone with {hells ; and (ometimet
contain beds of red gypfum with cryftals of the fame colour. In gene- \
ral gypfum is as abundant in Spain, as chalk is in England. The moun-
tains on the north of Madrid, forming part of the central chain, are gra-
nite II • Thofe to the north of Leon chiefly marble or limeftone, on a
bafis of argillaceous fchiftus, rifing in bold and rugged rocks which af-
forded a barrier to the remains of Spanifh liberty. In returning towards
the S., the foil of la Mancha is fandy, tlie rock gypfum. The higher
regions of the Sierra Morena are granite : the lower argillaceous fchillus
with ffypfum and limeftone. The granite is of two kinds, the red and
the white f .

Near Cordova the higheft hills are covered with rounded mafles of
granite, grit, and limeftone.^ Near Malaga are branches of the Sien-a
Nevada, or fnowy chain, an appellation which might alfo be extended
to the central range between Old and New Caftille, which according to
Mr. Townfendy migVt at fome times be vjfible at the diftance of loo

• Dillon, p. lis, fsys the moHnttlns dtvuCng the two Caftilet, tn called theft of
Giiadarama.
f Tewoicndi i«l8)». t Tsia* Si'^ig. H ti.3ft6.i.l07. f U.MO. 297.

SPAIN.

209

-lie;; thcfe branches prefent limeftone and marble, furmounted by ar-
sillaceous fchiltas. Near Alhama S.E. of the city of Granada, are
found rocks, which on a bafis of fliingle or round gravel prefent fand-
w with Ihells, fiirrnounted with pudding-ftone, but in general the rocks
jfegypfeous, with llrata of the fame fubllancc chryftallized. The S.E.
part of Spain feems calcareous, and the cathedral of Murcia is built with
[ fort of limelloue refembling the roe of fifli. But near Cape de
Gata the hills feem to have been volcanic, as French mineralogifts have
inferred from the fingularity of its produftions.

FoKESTS.] Spain contains many foreils, partly arifing from the want
of cultivation, partly referved for the royal pleafures ot the chace ; as
tint of the Pardo, wliich extends near thirty miles in length ; fome of
ilie forefts are haunted by fmugglers and banditti, who raife contributions
ffom the unwary travellers ; and even murders are not unfrequent.

Botany.] Although the great promontory weft of the Pyreneatj
uoiintains is divided, by its political interelts, into the independent go-
vernments of Spain and Portugal, yet the diftribution of tlie different
kinds of foil, and natural produdls, is fo little conformable to the terri-
torial divifion, that an account of the botany of either country muft as-
ceffarily include the great outlines of the other ; it will therefore fave
much repetition to unite the two kingdoms in a general Iketch of the
botany of the whole promontory.

Spain, including by this term the whole counti-y wcfl: of the Pyrenees,
may be divided according to its botany into tho fea-fhore ; the high
mi/iintains, the lower ones ; the arable lands, the grazing tracts and
marllies along the rivers ; and the vicinity of Lifljon and Oporto.

The fea fhore uf Spain ^refents fewer peculiarities than the interior ;
refembling for the moll part in its vegetable prodn£lions the northern
coafts of the Mediterranean : the flat I'andy trails are occupied by the
fea daffodil, tome coarfe kinds of grafs, and falfola fativ.i ; of this lalt
there are extenfive plantations in the neighbourhood of Alicant and Bar-
celona, for the purpofe of procuring frt)m its aihes the Spanilh barilla^
an alkaline fait of confulerable purity, of which fome thoufand tons are
every year manufadlured, partly for foreign commerce, and partly for the
preparation of the hue Spaniflifoap. The rocks on the coail arc chiefly
calcareous, and < abound with famphire, tree violet, tragacanth vetch,
caper bufh, and the celebrated efparto grafs, which, on ;iCcount of its
extraordinary toughnefs, is ufed for making ropes, mats, chair bottoms,
and, in fhort, all the articles included under the French term fparlcrle.

The high mountains of Spain being neither fo lofty, nor in fucli hirge
malTesas thofe of SwifTerland, are for the moft part covered with fnow
only for a tew weeks in the year ; here 1 hcreforc, and in the lower moun-
tainous ridges that border the bay of Bifcay, we find a number of plants
familiar to the plains of the n«rth of Europe ; the finell timber trees in
Spain arc found in thefe elevated regions, and the Engliflibotanilt might
here almofl think himfelf in his native country; the oak, the hme, the
birch, the mountain alh, the yew, the beech, the larch, the holly, and
the juniper, grow to a confiderable fize, and are the moil charadteiiftic
of tfie vegetable produdlions.

The long ranges of moderate fized hills that occupy the greateft part of
Spain, coniift either of extenfive arid traits of fand, of arenaceous fimd-
ilone, and ferruginous rubble forming the heaths ; of dry calcareous dif-
frids forming the flieep-walks ; or of moill rough granitic and marble
ridges, with but a fhallow foil forming the woodlands.

Tile Spanifh heaths arc gayer and richer with plants than thofe of any

P other

mmm^m^-

210

SPAIN.

«)ther European country ; in feme parts are tliick woods of the re
leaved fir and (lone pine, in others are fcattered groves of cork tre "^•
here the traveller is regaled with the fragrance of niimberlefs aroniat-
plants, the mallich thyme ; fpike lavender ; common and Spanifli farre •
nnd rofemary. The golden bloffoms of thegorfe, a plant chiefly found
in England and Spain ; and the crimfon, flefti coloured, and fnowy flowcra
of the arborefcent heaths mutualiy heighten each other ; the cWant li
thofpermuin fruticofnm entangles itfelf among thickets of dwarf myrtle'
and every fpot of fand or dry rock, forfaken by other vegetables is
adorned and perfumed by the ciftus ; of this plant there are no lefs than
fourteen fpecies natives of Spain,' rU of them eminently beautiful for their
tioad hlken blofToms of pure white or yellow, with deep crimfon eyes-
tfie laurel leaved clftus, is moll frequent in Old Caftille, but the commoneli
of all is the gum ciftus, a moll elegant and fragrant ftirub from fix to
feven feet high, which occupies whole miles of dry rock, and on this ac-
count forms a very peculiar feature in the fcenery of Spain.

The fheep-walks are for the mod part open downs with httle (helter
except here and there a grove of chefnut trees, or ever-green oaks ; the
turf differs cfTcntially from that of the Enghfh flieep-walks in containinij
Tory fc\V fpecies of grafs, being chiefly compofed of the fmallor papiliona.
ceous plants.

The woodlands of Spain demand particular notice, in an account of
its vegetable produ6lions ; \vc find here none of tliat noon-day nighr of j
fliade that fproa38 fuch an awful folemnity over the recedes of the Ger.
man and Englifh forcfts; tlie trees are neither fo large, nor is their folia^re
fo ample. Several of the calcareous fummits arc covered with cliefnut I
trees and box, but the great mafs of the woods confilljfcof the ever-green
fweet oak. This tree is about the fizc of a large pear tree, which it
fbmewhat rcfembles in its manner of growth ; its leaves are lancculatc,
green above and hoary beneath, curled and rather fcauty ; it produces
large crojjs of fwoct acorns, which are extenlively applied to the fattening
of l)og', and the nourifhmcnt of the peafants. Intermixed with tlicfel
ave tlie wild olive, the kermes oak, walnut and carob tree} the almondl
fixes itfelf in the crevices of the rocks along with the fumach ; the laurel,!
the bay, the laurultinus, •.w^ Portugal laurel, attain the height of fnialll
trees, and yield a cool and ihady retreat even in the niidlt of a SpaiiiO
fnnmier.

Where tl •? ground is fufficiently deep and moill for cultivation and rich j
pafturage, a number of beautiful bulbous-rooted plants appear in the early I
autumn and fpring, and give a peculiar gaiety at that time to the Spaniflil
profp.'tls ) two fpecies ot afphodel mr/be faid in a manner to overlprcadi
the whole country ; many alfo of the following are fcarcely lefs coirrnion;!
yellow amaryllitf ; jonquil; cluftercd hyacinth j dog's tooth violet j oraiigel
and martagon lily ; and wild tulip. . I

The fallows and dry thickets abo\md with the fan-palmetto, ycllowlupin,!
Spanilh liroom, and white broom. In thw' hedges are found thclaurdandl
coiiiinon palfiun flr)uer.

Both Spain and Portugal are for the mod part defici-ent in water; t(if|
riverii How through rocky chann^-is, and therefore there are few niardicsl
and Hill fewer bogs: tlie fide^ of the rivnlel.; however arc adorned withthfl
oleander, laburnum, tamariO;, and myrtle, which in thefc fltuations growl
\^"itli unufual luxuriance.

The vicinity of Liibon nnd Oporto, and r^l' a few other towns on th

coall, is rem kablc as to it'* botany for a number of Indiant African, iiiill

^Uicrican plants, whicli have gradually Ihayed out of the gvdons, ainlj

8 , m

SPAIN.

liaw become completely naturalized to the foil and climate ; the hedges
to the fields are not unfrequontly formed entirely of the American ajoe,
jjd Indian fig ; the rich foil on the bank of the Tagus glows with the
fplendid fcilla hyacinthoidcs, the ornithogalum Arabicum, and the allium
fneciofum ; and tl.e fheltered groves and funny rocks of Belem prefent the
liately magnolia, the date palm, a beautiful kind of cyprefs,> originally
from Goa, the tea tree from China, the Cape jafmine, the ice plant, and
Weral others of the fame genuS from the Cape of Good Hope, together
with a profufion of geraniums and heaths.
Zoology.] The glory of the Spanifli zoology is the horfc, which has
leen famous in all ages, probably originating from the barb, or beautiful
aiidfpirited fteed from the north of Africa, the immediate offspring of the
Arabian. The Spaniih mules are alfo excellent, and the afs is here no
iViioble animal, though not equal to that of Arabia. The breed of (heep
iasbeen long celebrated as perhaps fuperior to any in the world, for the
delicacy of the mutton, and the beauty of the fleece. The purity of the
ail, and aromatic pailure, no doubt contribute to both qualities, which i^
ij to be fufpefted would degenerate on tranfportation.
.MixERALOGY.] The mineralogy of Spain was anciently of more im-
portance than in modern times. Pliny *•, after obferving that filver was
perally found with galena, or lead ore, proceeds to ihue that the faired
of all filver was found in Spain, where the pits, begun by Hannibal, lafted
tohistime, being knpwn by the names of their original difcoverers. That
called Bcbelo had yielded to Hannibal 300I. weight a day, a mountain
being pierced for a mile and a half, through which the workmen direfted
jafffc lireams of water ; fo that the plan purfued feems to have been that
called hufliing by modern writers. Strabo f informs us that the province
of the Tiirditani, modern Audalufui, was the moll produftive of precious
metals; and gold, filver, brafs, and iron, were no where found more
abundant, nor of better quality : gold was found in the fands of the rivers
and torrents, a known attribute of the Tagus. Polybiu;' informs us con-
cerninj; the mines of filver near Cartliagcna, which occupied ?. nmnber of
workmen, and yielded to the Romans 25,000 drachms daily. Other mines
of lllvcr were found near the fources of the Bnetis. This intelligence
becomes of the more importance, as Britain and oth'^r regions of the weft
cfrtuiiily derived their gold and filver from Gaul and Spain, in return for
caltle, hides, and other produifts.

At prcfciit, ahr.oll the only filver mines in Spain arethofeof Guadal-
canal, in the Sierra Morena. At Almadcn, in La Manclia, aiv valuable
mines of quickiilver, which are chiefly reiai.led to Spiniilh America, and
employed in refining the more precious metals. Cahitniiie appears near
Alcavas, cobalt in the Pyreiires ; antimony in La Mancha ; copper on
the frontiers of Portujj.d i ; tin in Galaiii } and lead is common in inany
idillritls. The iron ot Sj)ain is abuiulaut, and Itill maintains it* high
charadiT; and coals arc found in thedillnd of V'llla Franca, in Catalonia,
[wlicrL- i'.lfo occur gold, filver, copper, and lead ^Ji. Auberandjet (in
iSpanilh uiuibache) are found together in th- territory of JLa'lonchiu in the
lAlliirias The other minerals hii- rather curious than iinpoi'taiit, ftich as
the beautiful cry Ihillizfd fill pliur found at Coiiilb, not far Ironi Cadiz,
tlieelallic marble of Malaga, and the green marbl-.- relciubiing the verdu
|antic(> found near Granada.

MiNKUAL WATEUs.] Spain contains many mineral water;, but few arc

• Lil>. xnxiil. cup. vi. f I.ili.ii'i.

1 a

X Sfi; Dillon, i<j(,, for an T.coum of t'n

celubratcdk

fit*'

. SPAIN.

celebrated. The li6t fprings of Rivera tie Abajo are fituated not fat
from Oviedo'; and bear fome refemblauce to thofe of Bath. Near Alicant
are the baths of Buzot, warm fprings of a chalybeate nature, rifing, likg
the former, among calcareous hills.

Natural curiosities.] The natural curiofities of Spain have been
little illullrated. The rock of Gibraltar, as is well known, in fome parts
contains bones which have been fuppofed to be human ; but are now dif.
covered to belong to quadrupeds, and to have been depofited in the fiffurei
from above. This rock is chiefly calcareous, and on the weft fide a a
ilaladitic cave called St. Michael's.

•■»*

:.:,:.i^:^

SPANISH ISLES.

The chief circumjacent iflands belonging to Spain are Majorca, Minorca
and Evizaj or, according to Spanifli orthography, Mallorca, Menorc^
Ibiza. Majorca is about 55 Englifh miles in length, by 45 in breadth.
The N.W. part is hilly; the reft abounds with cultivated land, vineyards,
orchards, and meadow ; the air is temperate, and the honey higlily eileemed:
there is generally a confiderable military force in the ifle. The capital,
fi-ated on a fair bay, is an elegant city, and is fuppofed to contain 10,000
inhabitants. Majorca was reconquered from the Moors by James I, king
of Arragon, in 1229.

Majorca is generally in too ftrong a Qate of defence to admit of an eafy
conquell, but Minorca has been repeHtedly feized by the EngU(h,to whom
it prefents an advantageous ftation for the Mediterranean trade. It ji
about 30 miles in length, by about 12 of medial breadth. The air is
moift, and the foil rather barren, being chiefly calcareous, with lead and
fine marble. The wine is praifed ; and the inhabitants retain a (hare of
their ancient reputation as excellent flingers. Cittadella, the capital, has
a tolerable hiivt n, but the population and fortifications are of little confe-
quence. Port Maiioii, on the S.K. has an excellent harbour, and received
itii name from MajU), tl^^ C.irtli;iginian general. Eviza is the ncareU to
Spain, about 15* miles long, and i 2 broad. It is remarkeble for its fruits,
awd abunJaiice «.; ex^xll'iit lail.

,J*^

OrifhiJ

* . mV

'IIIRKF.Y IN EUROPE.
CHAPTER I. '

^?^

HfsiOKrt Ai. gt:o(.kaphy.

Kunits.—^r.i'lctif. — Boiiii(hr'ift, — Original Populai'ton.—Progrejjivt Geoirt'
phy. — JJiJioiicoI r.j[>ucLs and AnUijuit'ht.

' r*l]E Tiirkifli einjiirr, oner fo formid.ible to Europe, h«» lately funk

X betutt ih.-powti'of Rullia; yet ancient fame confpites wilii the rr>

maiiiing extent and i)opuIut:uii of the Turkifh dominicns, to entitle tliis|

^uwer to a plice iunoii^j the jipjpt)nderating fovereignties 'jotbof Europe
;i*i'l AfiiV PHtkey in Europe ij computed to conlaic l83>56ofquu«

nules ;

PiUfi- igg.

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MAI

.X.

Ptmr-

?>•- 'JfS-

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IN- .. ■■maa.'wtftAjiBui,,

ill Kiiri>|i<' It'iiiii Aiviitf riMilli'D Mfiji ,

■ »\-f \'.

--^ ., *?

Dae

J Turks
|i^'i.'.'ldei

TURKEY IN EUROPE.

213

' miles ; an extent which exceeds that of Spain, or even France under the
ancient monarchy.

Names and provinces.]] As European Turkey forms a recent fove-
rcignty, the greater part of which was fubjugated in the fifteenth century,
after the fall of Conftantinople and of the Byzantine empire, there is no
ancient appellation for its whole extent. It embraces many ancient king-
doms and republics, which now only afford a melancholy remembrance
of claffical names and events. l . Moldavia, the moft northern province,
was part of ancient Dacia ; and Yaffy was the JaJJiorum Municipium of the
Romans. 2. Budzac, or Beflarbia*, was a country of the Getae and
Peucini. 3. Walachia was alfo a province of the ancient Dacians ; while,
4. Bulgaria on the S. of the Danube embraces nearly the two provinces of
Msfia. 5' Romeha, a vaft territory, contains ancient Thracia, Paeonia,
Macedonia, and the northern part of the clafllcal country of Greece ;
while, 6. the Morea is equivalent to the ancient Poloponnefus. To the
W. of Romelia extends, 7. Albania ; which includes tlie kingdom of
Epiriis, Chaonia, and a part of lUyricum. 8. Dalmatia retains its ancient
appellation: while, g. Servia, and, 10. Bofnia, reprefent ancient Pau-
iionia, II. Turkifli Croatia, the moft weftern province of the empire,
alfo forms a portion of ancient Pannonia, with perhaps a fmall dillridt of
Noricum.

Ill recent times Turkey has loft the provinces of the Krim, and new
Servia, which, with feveral Afiatic diftri(lts, have become fubjeft to
Ruffia ; and on the W., Tranfylvania, Sclavonia, witli the Buckovina,
part of Moldavia, and a great part of Croatia, have fallen under the
power of Auftria.

Extent.] Turkey in Europe extends about 870 miles in length,
from the northern boundary of Moldavia, to Cape Matapan in the Morea.
The breadth from the river Unna to Conftantinople is about 680 Britifh
miles. Tlie eaftern and fouthern boundaries are formed by the Euxine
or Black Sea, the fea of Marmora, the Archipelago, and the Mediter-
ranean. The utmoft northern limit is now the river Dniefter ; but the
weilern often confifts of an arbitrary line, and is fometimes fupplied by
rivers or mountains. <

Original population.] The original population of this empire chiefly
fprung from the ancient Scythians on the Eoxine, the progenitors of the
Dacians, Thracians, &o. and even of the Greeks. Thefe were originally
blended, towards the north, with many Sarmatic or Slavonic tribes ; and
on the fall of the Roman empire, the latter fpread more and more towards
the fouth, fo that nearly one half of the poprtlation may now be regarded
as Slavonic ; but Wutachia is fuppofed to contain many delccndants of the
ancient Roman fe tiers in Dacia. The extent of the Turkiili empire lias
contributed to mingle this orij^inal population with various Aliatic races,
among whom the Turks themfelves defcrve particular mention. That
braacli called t'u- Ottomans, which has pt«j«ed fo deftructive to Europe,
derived their .iime from the calif Othman, who reigned in the beginning
of the foi'.rtceiirij rentury, and extended his fway into the plains of Bithy-
nia, in which tie conquered Nieomedia and Prufa, and thus npproaclkd
tven to the gates of Conilantinoplef. But the name ami power of the
Turks are ot far more remote antiquity. They are luppoled to have de-
CLCuded from the Altaian mountains in 'I'atary, abt.)nt the mid'Ue of the
xlli century • and 1 pread gradually towards the svell, nil they reached

Nut ikilaraliid, au ti^rd romi|it'tou.

•^•(iihlivw, M. 41a,

the

SZ4

TURKEY IN EUROPE.

the lake Mxotis *. Yet the ftrcngth of the empire reftrifted them to ih
region near the river Oxus, whence the cahfs derived their Turkiih cuard
who afterwards fubverted the throne of Bagdad. The Hungarians wh *
fpread deilruttion through great part of Europe in the tenth century
known to have been a branch from the Finnifti ftem : but the Turks
Turkomans, properly fo called, fpread from the Oxus and Samarcand
to the eail of Perlla, where Mdimoud of Gazna eftablifhed a powerful
. kingdom, fubdued by the Turks of Bochara, who in the eleventh century
founded the dynaftyof the Seljuks. The fultans of this race graduallv
extended their power towards the weft, and Armenia and Georgia were
among their firll acquiiitions in the Byzantine empire. Towards the
middle of the fourteenth century, the Ttirks firft pafled into Europe •
and foon after feized the greateft part of Thrace. In the beginning
of the fifteenth century, their fultan Bajazet extended his conquelts
even to the Danube ; and the provinces of Thrace and Macedonia
fell under the Turkifli fceptre, while x\drianople became the feat of their
government.

From this deduftion it will appear, that it was chiefly with European
troops that the Turks finally fubverted the Byzantine empire. From the
diverfity of nations which joined their ftandard, from intermarriages with
women of Circaflla, and many other circumftances which need not be here
recapitulated, the modern Turks may be regarded as a mixture of many
races of men. If they originally fprung from the Altaian monntains, as
the beft records induce us to believe, they feem to have formed a part of
the nations ftyled by the ancients " the "Scythians beyond the Imaus;'
and their fubft-quent fettlement on the Oxus muft have fwcUed their po.
pulation with Sogdian and Badtrian tribes.

PitOGKESSiVE GEOGKAPHY.] The progrcflive geography of Turkey in
Europe is refledcd in the greateft luftre from the claflical pages of ami-
qaity, and through the annals of the Byzantine empire to modern times.
Under the Byzantine empire, in the tenth century, the Pcloponnefus ton.
tained no lefs than forty cities, whofe ruins ftill exhibit the lamentable
marks of the devaftations of the Ottoman barbarians, whofe only power
is to deftroy, and whofe baleful fway ektingi'iflies all induftry and prof.
perity. The Turkiih divifion into provinces has been already ftated.

Historical epochs.] It would be difficult and unfatisfaitory minutely
to ftate the hiftorical epochs of this extenfive dominion, containing fo many
ancient kingdoms and Ilatcs. It fli?ll therefore be only prcmifed that, after I
the Roman arms had fubdued thefe countries and cities, many of which j
are celebrated in the moft ancitnt pages of hiftory, they became in the I
fifth century an important part of the Byzantine empire ; and the hifto.
rical epochs moft appropriated to the prefent dehgn will delineate their
gradual lubjugation by the Turks.

1. 'ihe lirll dawn of Turkifli hiftory preceding the reign of Gthman, j
A.D. i2(jg.

2. In the reign of his fuccelTor, Orkan. the Turks take Gallipoli, and!
penetrate into Thrace ; which province was foon after conquered, and!
Adriaiiople was taken A.D. 1360. T-vo years afterwards the fultanj
Anunath eftablifhed the famous mi itary bands called Janizaries, com.)
pofid of Chriftian flavcs educated in Mahomctanifra from their inlancy.

3. The ri'\u;n of Bajiizot, who defeats the Hungarians at Nicopoli, inl
Bulgaria, AD. 1396. In 1402 the famous battle was fought near An.

* Gibbtii), vii. 364.

cyra,

TURKEY IN EUROPE.

Jij

c^ta, between B-^jazet and Timur, whicti for a pti 19^ cll?ek:i.l ^^'? Tnrkifh
power- y^/. m 141 2 the emperox* Sigifmund was defeated by the fultan
jU'fa with great llaiightcr.

j^. The Turks continue to incrcafc their dominion in Europe, though
iliev received fcvere checks from the Hungarians under Hunniades, and
f^en from the Albanians commanded by the celebrated George Caftriota,
called by the Turks Scanderberg.

f. Conftantinople taken by the Turks on th'* 29th of May 1453. In
•j,-5 happened the fiege of Belgrade by Mahomet II, Corinth and the

Morea became fubjeA to the Crefcent A.D. I45'B. In 1480 Otranto in
Italy was taken by the Turks, an event which dinufed great terror through-
out Europe.

f>, A confiderable accefllon to the Turkifli power took place in the
conqueil of Egypt, A.D. 1^7. In 1^22 Rhodes fubmits to the
Turks : the knights were afterwards transferred to Malta. In 1 J26 the
noted battle of Mohatz, in which I^ewisjcing of Hungary periflied ; and
thefiiltan Soliman foon after took Buda. In 1529 he bcfieges Vienna
at the head of 250,000 men, but the city being bravely defended by Fre-
deric, prince palatine, the Turks withdrew with great lofs. In I5'52 the
Turks feized the Bannat of Temefwar ; and took Cyprus from the Ve-
netians in 157 1.

7, III the fame year was the famous naval battle of Lepanto,- which
delivered Europe from any apprehenfion of the Turks by fea. They con-
tinual' Iiowevcr to invade Hungary with various fuccefs. But their wars
with Perfia gradually diverted their arms from Europe. In 1643
tlie fuhan Ibrahim took from the Coflacs the town of Azof at the
muuth of the Don. Towards the middle of this century they feized
fonie Grecian iflcs, which the naval powei of the Venetians had enabled
them to retain.

8. Mahomet IV. renews the wars againft the emperor of Germany ;
and in 1663 the Auftrians were defeated in Hungary. The ifle of Candia
is taken in 1669, after a long blockade and iicge. Wars with Poland.
The fiege of Vienna, 1683, was raifed by John Sobiedci kiwg of Poland.
Hungary became the fcene of repeated Turkifli and Aullrian conqucfts,
till 1699, the peace of Carlovitz, by which the Turks' yielded Tranfyl-
vaiiia 10 the AullrianF, the Morea to the Venetians, and Azof to the
RulTians.

0. In 1 736 a fuccefsful war was begun with tlie RiiHians and Auftriiiis ;
ItlieTurks, by the peace of 1739, refumed lielgiade and Orlovn, ..ith
fane parts of Servia and Walachia, formerly ceded, to Auilria ; and
1 Rulliais conilrained to abandon Azof.

10. The more recent wars of the Ruffians againft the Turks, and the
I fubfequetit decline of the Ottoman empire.

Some of the events here commemorated are comparatively minute; but
Ithe Turkifli power has been fo dellrntlive, wherever it ipread, to the
lb«ll interolls of humanity, that even the finaller ramifications of fuch
la peltilence feem not undeferving of being commemorated, with the
Ifaiiie curiofity that natural hiftorians defcribe the utmoft extent of an
|tarth(iuake.

Antiquities.] The ancient monuments of European Turkey ai-e well
Ikiiovvn to exceed in nuniber and importance thoie of any other country.
jTh' nmains of ancient Athens, in particular, formerly the chol'en feat
jof the art^, have attracted the attennun of many travellers, and have been
repeatedly defcribed. A venerable monument of antiquity, the church
i'dicatcd to the divine wifdom, or vulgarly Sauda Sopliia, by the empt ror

1^ 4 Juiliuian,

2l6

TURKEY IN EUROPE.

Juflinian. in the fixth centtiry, has rren fortunately pr^ferved, by bojn ,
converted into a xnofque. The i'sierior ?.s adorned with a profulion of
marble colinjnns, of various beautiful defcriptions, the purple fpottfed
Phrygian, the Spartan green, the red and white Carian, the African of
a faffron colour, and many other kinds. The other antiquities of Con
ilantinople and European Turkey, would occupy many pages in the bare
enumeration. Suffice it here to obferve that the French have recently
difcovered the remains of the ancient fea-port belonging to Sparta near
a barren promontory, which projefts from the fouth of the Morea • and
that the antiquities and geography of that part n6w ftyled Albania ftiH
prefent a field of refearch to the entci'priling traveller.

CHAPTER II.

POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Jieligioft. — Government. — Laws. — Population. — Colonies.'— Army. -~}^(i<^«\
—Revenues. — Political Importance and Relations. \

nn -I'THHE religion of the Turks is the Mahometan; but

KELIGION.J JL Qf ^j^^.j^ fubjeftsj in this divifion of the empire, id
is probable that two thirds are Greek Chriilians. The religion ofj
Mahomet has been recently cleared from many erroneous reprefentations'f
but its pernicious {fledls are fulHciently vifible in the deftruftion of arJ
and induftry, wherever it has made its appearance. The exclufivel
attachment to the Koran, the rigid fanaticifm, and the contempt for
profane knowledge, confpire with the devout hatred againft all unbeJ
lievers to prevent any intercourfe with other fe6^s, and thus to ercft ;
barrier againll every branch of fcience and induftry. While the MaJ
hometans regard all other nations as dogs, (to ufe their own expreflion,)
it is no wonder that they themfelves fhould fink into an ignorance anq
apathy truly bruta'. The mufti, or Mahometan pontiff, prefides
Conftantinople ; but .his power has fcldom interfered with the civil
government. Next to him in rank are the mouhlahs, who, thouglj
efteemed dignitaries of the church, are in faft rather doftors of thJ
law, while the Koran is alfo a code of civil obfervance. From tlij
mouhlahs are felefled the inferior muftis or judges .throughout the eit
pire, and the cadilefquiers, or chief juftices.

The next chifs of divines are the imaums, or parifli priefts, who perforij
the fervice of the mofqucs, while the cadis are judges annually appoints
to adminifter juftice in the towns and villages, being themfelves to be rJ
garded ab churchmen, who, like the moulahs, have directed their chid
attention to the juridical part of the Koran.

From this brief view it will be obfervcd, that the ecclefiaftical ordcJ
of muftis and imaums fomewhat refcmble the Chriftian bifliops and pi
rochial clergy ; while the 'other diftuidlions arife from the fingularity(
both religion and laws being united in the Koran, fo that a lawyer (
judge muft at the fame time be a flcilful divine.

The Turks have alfo iheir monks, ftyled dervifhes of four varioJ
orders and inftitutions, dedicated by, folemn vows to religious officq
public prayer, and preaching.

The Greeks, along with thrir faith, retain their priefts, bifhops, arcl
fjtfhops^ ^nd patriarchs ^ but their church ii3 iu the laft ftatc of dcgradf

, - • n

(ion, and It
loffever, it
(ion and avs
by idle cerei

TURKEY IN EUROPE.

2T7

,'on and its dignities openly fold by the Turks: this abomination
. ygver, it mull be confelTed, partly arifes from the miferable ambi-
tion and avarice of the Greek ecclefiaftics, who think they can atone
. idle ceremonies for the neglect of all the invaluable morality of the

Government.] The fultan is a defpotic fovereign ; but he ishimfclf
Uriftly fubjeft to the laws of the Koran, which, including alfo tlie national
religion, raife fuch obftruftions to his abfolute will, that an intelligent
traveller pronounces many Chriftian fovereignties more defpotic. Hence
it appc^fS that the power of the monarch is balanced by a religious ari-
llncracy, which, together with the mutinies of the .lani/aries and the
iafiiireftions of the provincial pachas, has greatly weakened the fovereign
authority.

The Turkifh laws, as has been already mentioned, are contained in the
Koran ; but to fujjply the dofedls of this work, fucoeflive moulahs of
tigh reputation, ufmg the Koran as a kind of text, have conllrufted
connneiitaries which have acquired tlio force of laws. The Turkifh
empire is chiefly guided by thofe v f Abou Hanife. As a due flcill in
thele commentaries requires confiderable Ihuly, ecclefiaftics verfed in this
IcienM became in fome degree a diftindl body from thofe merely dedicated
tothe priellhood. i

Population. J Turkey in Europe been computed to contain

8,000,000 of inhabitants; and the c^u-iit being fuppofed 182,560
fniiare miles, the allotment will be 43 to the mile fquare. It is pro-
bable that .this number rather exceeds the truth, when it is confidered
that thefe regions are interfered by many mountainous and barren trafts,
and that the population even of the beft provinces impreffes travellers with
J linking defed.

Army and navv.] The Turkifh army and navy may deferve more
particular confidcration under the head of Afiatic Turkey, as the chief.
fources fall under that divifion. It may here be briefly remarked that
there are about 30 fliips of the line ; while the army, after the dcfedlion
bfmany paflias, can fcarcely exceed 150,000, ill difciplined, and difpirited
bv fiicceflive difailcrs : and more deltruftive to their own provinces,
through which they muft pafs, than to any ftate with which they are at
enmity ; more terrible to their friends than to their foes.

Revenues.] The revenues of the whole Turkifli empire are computed
at about 7,000,000 flerling, while the ufual expence does not exceed five.
This revenue is parti) derived from the capitation tax on unbelievers,
and from the zecrhat or culloms j but principally from the tax on land,
amounting to about fix fliillings an acre, and which is called the Jizie.
The fultan is alfo fuppofed to poflcfs a confiderable private treasure ;
which, when called forth by the exigencies of the ftate, will probably
be found of as fniall account as the trcafures of limilar fame which
fell into the hands of the French. A more real treafurc* may be ex--
pefted from the arbitrary exactions from the rich, particularly the
Chriftians.

Political importance and relations (1806).] The palpable and
rapid decline of the Turkilh empire has of coufIc greatly impaired its
political impoitance. At the beginning of the fixteenth century, when
European politics began to alFume fome confillency, France, being
alarmed by the growing power of the houfe of Aullria, entered into an,
alliance with Turkey, the repeated fubjodl of murmur among the Chrif-
tian powers. This long alliance has been recently violated by the im-
I frudence of the French rulers, who ehofe to attack Egypt by open

force.

'I!

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33 WIST MAIN STMIT
WIMTM NY. USM

(7U)l7a-4»03

^^'
^

siS

TURKEY IN EUROPE.

force, without the confent of the Porte. In confequence of this vio.
lation, the Turks joined the Auftrians and Rufllans in the war ajjainft
France, and Ruffian fquadrons of war have pafTed the facred walls of
the feraglio, and infpeAed as friends that weaknefs which may aflift
them as enemies. Since the peace the French have regained their ufual
afcendency, and by their potent interpofition may, no doubt, if they
choofe, confiderably modify, and perhaps render null, any future con-
{piracy of Auflria and Ruffia againll the European dominions of
Turkey. The Turks are . fenfible that a ftridt alliance with Pruflla
would be of Angular advantage to them ; that power can have little
intereft in fuch a treaty, but muft on the contrary rather exult to fea
the power of Ruflia exerted againft Turkey and Aiia. Meanwhile
the Turks have fpared no endeavour to fecure the friendihip of feveral
European powers, and have appointed refideut amhaffadors at feveral
courts, who may be regarded as heralds of their fall ; for in their prof-
perity they difdained to fend any envoys, and regarded the ambaffadors
at the Porte as tributary (laves, fent to folicit the prpteftion of the
fultan. Amidft the defection of feveral paflias, in the eaft as well agin
Europe, it is fortunate fur the Ottoman empire that the power of Periii
is dormant.

CHAPTER III. y- -

CIVIL GEOGRAFIIY.

Manners and Cujfoms.^^ Language. — Literature. — Education. — Un'merftttcs.
— Cities and Towns. — Edijiccs. — Roads. ^Inland Navigation. — Maiiu.
JaSures and Commerce. • - • ^ « •

-, ' . ^„ T ^ I HE manners and cuftoms of the Turks

Manners AND CUSTOMS.] J[ are dirtinguilhed by the peculiaritv of
their religion from thofe of other European nations. On the birtn of
a child tlie father himfelf gives the name, putting at the fame time a
grain of fait into his mouth *. Marriage is only a civil contraft, which
either party may break, and is managed by female mediation, the youth
feldom feeing his bride till after the ceremony. The burial-grounds are
near the highways, and Hones are often placed at the head of ihe graves,
with carved turbans denoting the fex. As they never intrench upon a
former grave, the cemeteries are very extenfive. In diet the Turks
are extremely moderate, and their meals are difpatched with great
hafte. Rice is the favourite food, and is chiefly dreifed in three ways$
the pilau, boiled with mutton or fowl ; the lappa, or mere boiled ricoj
and the tchorba, a kind of broth of the fame vegetable. The meal ia
iifually fpread on a low wooden table, and the malter of the huufe pro-
nounces a fliort prayer. The frugal rcpaft is followed by fruits and cold
water, which are fucceeded by hot coffee and pipes with •tobacco.
The houfes of the Turks are feldom expenfive ; and the chief furniture
is the carpet whirh covirti the floor, with a low fofa on one fide of the
room. In regard to drefs, Tournefort f obferves that the ufe of the
turban is unhealthy, bt^caufe the ears are expofed, and its thicknefs pre*
vents perfpiration. The fliirt is of calico : and the loufe robe is faf«

• Tournefori, I. 4J,

fi. 79.

,^ 0}m

t(Md

TURKEY IN EUROPE.

119

tened hy a girdle, in which is ftuck a dagger , while the tobacco box,
pocket book, &c. are worn in the bofom. The robe is generally of
European broad-cloth, trimmed with various furs. The flioes, or rather
flippers, are flight, and unfit for much exercife. The drefs of the women
differs little from thai of the men, the chief diftinftion being the head-
drefs ; that of the fair fex confifting of a bonnet, like an inverted baflcct,
formed of pafteboard covered with cloth of gold, or other elegant ma-
terials, with a veil extending to the eyebrows, while a fine handkerchief
conceals the under part of the face. The perfonal cleanlinefs of both
fexes is highly laudable ; but the European eye is not pleafed with the
female ciiltom of ftaining the nails with a red tmfture. The amufements
of the Turks partake of their indolent apathy, if we except hunting and
tliofe of a military defcription. To recline on an elegant carpet, or in
the hot feafon by the fide of a ftream, and fmoke the dehcate tobacco of
Syria, may be regarded as their chief amufement. With opium they
procure what they call a kief, or placid intoxication, during which the
fancy fcrms a thoufand agreeable images, but when the dofe is too potent
thefe are fuCceeded by irritation and ferocity. Chefs and draughts are
favourite games ; but thofe of chance are confidered as incompatilsle with
Srift morals. The cofFee-houfes, and the baths, furnifh other fources of
amufement ; and the bairam, or feilival which follows their long lent is
a feafon of univerfal diflipation.

Laxguaoe.] The Turkifti language is of far inferior reputation t*
the Perilan or Arabic, being a mixture of feveral dialedts, and pofleffing
neither the force, elegance, nor purity of thofe two celebrated oriental
tongues. Literature is not however totally neglefted, and it has been
ri'peatedly attempted to eftablifh a printing prefs at Conftantinople ; but
thedefign failed from the intereit of the copyiils, who inferred that this
art would deprive them of their bread. A late traveller informs us that
there are in this capital feveral iuttud dans, or public libraries, amon^
which are thofe of St. Sophia and the Solimanie Jamafy ; but none are
fo elegant as that founded by the grand vizier Raghid, which is wholly
built of marble in the midft of a fquare court, and is filled with books,
chieHy theological. A librarian conilantly attends, and there are con-
venient feats with carpets and cufhions. In the neighbourhood is a
fciiuol founded by the fame vizier, in which about 100 boys are taught
to read and write. The market for books is extcnfivc, containing many
(hops well fupplied with oriental manufcripts. The Turks have their
ancient poets, niltorianit, and divint;8 ; but of little reputation when com-
pared with thofc of Perfia or Arabia.

Education.] The ftate of education among the Turks may be con-
ceived to be very low, and ignorance is indeed a chief part of the national
character. The only profelfion which requires a Oiadow of learning is
I iliat of the law, which, as before explained, is intimately conncAed with
tbeir theology. Tlie celebrated doAors have t'ifciples, who are trained
up to titat department, but there fecms nothing that can deferve the name
w college or univerfity.

Cities and towns.] The chief city of European Turkey, and of
the Turkilh empire, ia Oonftantinople, io called becaufe founded by Con-
ftantine on the nte of the ancient Byxantiutn, The advantages of the
liituation can h4rdly be exceeded, and the alpeft from the fea is peculiarly
I grand } but on a nearer appn)ach, the wooden hovels and narrow llreets
Idifappoint the fplendid expectations of the fpedator. This capital forms
l»n unequal triangle, refembling a harp, being about twelve or fourteen
|£aghih miles iu circumference, wmtd by wallnf and on two fides by

the

220

TURKEY IN EUROPE.

the fea and the harbour called the Golden Horn. The inhabitants are com
Of thefe 200,000 are Turks, 100,000 Greek, and the re'

puted at 400,000, including th« four fuburbs, Galata, Pera, TonK
and Scutari. '^'^ ''"^- '^■-'-- ^ . * - P"

mainder Jews, Arnnenians, and Franks. The moll celebrated cdifiqes ar
the Seraglio, which comprizes a large fpace crowded with various build
ings of mean architefture ; and the mofque of San£la Sophia. The prjn.
cipal entrance of the Seraglio is ftyled Capi, or the Porte, an app(;ilation
"which has pafled to the 1 urkiHi court.

Next in dignity and extent is the city of Adrianople, formerly the
Buropean feat of the Turkifh dominion. This city which ftands about
340 Britiih miles to the N.W. of Conftantinople, was founded by the
emperor Hadrian on the fite of the ancient Orettias. It is waftied by the
Hebrus, now the Maritz, which here receives two tributary ftrcains*
This fecond city of European Turkey Is of a circular form, and at
preYent unfortified. Many of the houfes arc refpeftable, but the ftreets
are narrow and indirect. The fcraglio is in a pleafant fituation, feparated
from the city by the river Arda, and commanding an extenlive view of
the country, which is fertile, and remarkable for excellent vines. Several
of the mofques are o£ celebrated fplendour, and the commerce of the
city by the river is not inconfiderable.

Fi\ibe, or.Filipopoli, is meanly built, without fortifications, or one
good ftreet ; the fituation being k> low and moid that the mud is fome.
times two feet deep, and ftones like pofts are fet up to facilitate the pro.
grefs of foot paflengers. Yet it is a city of confiderable fize.

The city of Solia, lituated in a low country N.W. from Adrianople
is of confiderable trade, but meanly built : the inhabitants are computed
at 7 0,000.

Sililtria in Bulgaria, on the river Danube, is computed to contain
60,000 fouls ; whde Buchareft, the chief city of Walachia, is clUmated
at the fame number ; but Jafly, the leading town of Moldavia, and Bender
of Beffarabia, are only eitimated each at 10 or 12,000.

Belgrade, the capital of Servia, repeatedly difputed between the Auf-
trians and Turks, is now deftitute of fortitications, but is fuppofed to
retain about 25,000 inhabitants. Banjaluka in Bofnia is alfo a conflder.
able town, fuppofed to contain 18,000 fouls.

: In the more fouthem provinces mud firll be named Salonlca, com.
puted at 60,000, a city of confiderable commerce, feated on a noble
gulph of the Archipelago. About 80 Britifh miles to the fouth is La.
riOa* an inland town, but fuppofed to contain 25,000 fouls.' Atini, the
ancient Athens, is of fmall population ; and this region of clafllcal citict
uow fcarcely prefcnts another town worthy of commemoration in general
geography.

Edi VICES.] Exclufive of the feraglios and royal palaces, which them.
felves pufTefs little claim to architedural grandeur or beauty, the chief
edifices in Turkey are the mofques and caravanferas. The molt fplcndid
mofques are thofe of the capital and Adrianople, and are generally kept
in excellent repair, as the church poflefles ample revenues for that pur.
pofe, and the intereft and honour of the clergy are promoted by pre-
ierviug their fplendour. The caravanferas, on thb contrary, are oftin
neglcdtcd. Thefe buildings are generally in the form of a fquare, iii-
clofmg a court, the upper chambers being, deftined for travellers, and the
lower for horfts and camels. They are often founded by legacies of
tiic opulent ; but the truHces, having no perfonal intercU, generally

Dufdiing, Hi* 310.

fquaudcr

TURKEY IN EUROPE.

221

ropnana,
id the re-
iifiQes arc
ms build.
The prin.
ppdlation

merly the
nds about
led by the
bed by the

ftreams*.
■m, and at

the ftreets
, fcparated
iye view of
;8. Several
erce of the

sns, or one
ud is feme-
Ate the pro.

Adrianople
re corr.puted

i to contain

I is cllimated

and Bender

en the Auf-
"uppofed to
a confider>

oriica, com.
on a noble
fouth is La<
Atini, the
:laflical cities
in in general

wliicb them.

y, the chief

noil fplcndid
tierally kept

for that pur.
(ted by pre
ry, are ofttn
a fquare, in-
"lers, and the
legacies tif
ll, generally

fc^uauJct

fduandcf or alienate the funds allotted for their fupport, fo that thefe
feful edifices, fome of which boaft fuperior elegance, are permitted
w fall into fliameful decay.

Manufactures and commerce. J The manufactu. ;s and commerce
cf Turkey in Europe are chiefly in the hands of foreigners ; but as what
■ pgiied the Levant trade, ahnoft entirely centers in Smyrna and the
Afiatic Shore, this fubjeft will be more properly defcribed in that part
of this work which rebates to Afia. The native manufadures exported
from European Turkey are inconfiderable, being chiefly carpets, and a
jew other articles ; but the rude produfts are far more numerous, as
currants, figs, faffron, ftatuary marble from Paros, filk, aiid drugs.

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.

Clmate and Seafons.—Face of the Country— Soil and jigrkuhure.— Rivers,
■ ^LaJtes. — Motintalns. — Fore/Is. — Botany. — Zoology. — Mineralogy.--'
Mineral IVaters. — Natural Curlofttles* *

T ''B "HE extenfive reeions compriTed within
Climate and season.s.] J[ ^j^^ j.^^j^^ ^^ European Turkey enjoy.

in general, a delicious climate, pure air, and regular feafons. Ovid,
who was bauifhed to moderri Bulgaria, has written many elegiac com-
plaints on the I'e verity of the clime } and it feems an undoubted faft that
the feafons have become more genial fitice Europe has been dripped
ofthofc enormous forells, which diffufod humidity and cold. The
climate of Moldavia, which Ovid would have painted like Lapland, is
BOW little inferior to that of Hungary, though the vveflern part be
mountainous, and the eaftcrn prefent many uncultivated deferts. In
Walachia the air is fo temperate that vines ar 3 melons profper. In the
mountainous parts of the more foiJthern dillriAs the temperature muft
partake of the cold, univerfal in fuch elevated regions ; but the pro-
diifts of Macedonia and Greece, rice, vines, and olives, ftiew that the
climate retains its ancient praife.

Face of the country.] The general appearance of Turkey in
Europe is rather mountainous, but abundantly interfpcrfcd with de*
licious plains and vales ; and to the N.W. of Conilantinople there
is a plain country of vaft extent, while the fhores of the Euxinc pre-
fent many level deferts. Befides the grand llream of the Danube many
lafK and beautiful rivers interfedt thefe provinces, and the numerous
gulphs of the Archipelago and MtJiterraneaa diverlify and enrich the
I country.

Soil and agricitlturf.] The foil is generally fertile, the northern

parti producing wheat and rich palhire, the middle and fouthern abun*

dance of rice. But agriculture, like every other art and fcience, is

oeg^eftcd by the Turks ; and th:»t foil mull b(t truly fertile which, under

I their fway, can fupport its inhabitants.

I Rivkrs.] Among the rivers of European Turkey muft firft be named
[the Danube, which from Belgrade to Orfova divides Servia from the
iBannat, a fpace of near loo miles ; and afterwards becomes a Turkifli
jtlKMin tor more than 400, being in fomc pbccs a mile in breadth, and

prcfcntingi

ill

TURKEY IN EUROPE.

prefcnting, if poffeffed by an indullnoua people, all the advantages of
Mediterraneau fea.

Next perhaps in importance, though very inferior, is the Maritz
ancient Hebrus, which rifing in a chain of mountains anciently call 1
Haemus, and running towards the E. and S., falls into the ^gean f*^^
after a courfe of about 250 miles. The fame fea at the gulph of 831011^'
receives the Vardari, the ancient Auxius, which rifing in Mount Scardu''
a weilern branch of the fame chain, purfues a S. E. courfe of about
200 miles.

Two other rivers of fimilar confequence flow into the Danube. The
Eflcer, the ancient Oeilcus, rifes near the fource of the Maritz, but its
courfe little exceeds 1 20 miles ; while the Morava, the ancient Marpus
runs about 200. The Drin, another confiderable river, rifes to the north
of Albania, and falls into the Save.

Many other ftreams of claflical name pervade thcfe regions ; but tliev
often derive their fole importance from their hiftorical and poetical
reputation.

Lakks.] Ikidzac and Walachia contain fome lakes of confiderable
extent, as thofe round .Ifmail, and that to the E. of Surza, which com.
municates witli the Danube, or forms a part of that river. Nor are Al-
bania and the fouthern provinces wholly dellitute of lakesi but rather of
claffical fame than of geograpliical importance.

MoLTNTAiN's.] The chains of mountains are numerous and cxtenfive.
To the W. of Moldavia and the Buckovine runs N. and N.W. for about
200 miles part of the grand Carpathian cljain, anciently called the Baf.
tarnic Alps, from the Baftarnaj, an cxtenfive nation, partly of Gothic
and partly of Sarmatic origin. Tlie moll fouthern branch of this grand
chain, tending S.W. for mure than 200 miles, forma the N. and W. boun-
dary of Walacliia.

On the S. of the Danii!)e appears the grand range of the Haemus, which
Ptolemy reprcfnits as runniiij^ from t!ie S.W. to the N.E., while niodcii
obfervations indicate the oppollte direction ; but tlie r. cent ma])s of thjfc
rejfions are Uill very imperfcd. However this be, the cliain of the Hsmiis
is deforvedly celebrated by the ancients, being of j^reat elevation and extent,
as appears i'tttm the numerous and large rivers which devolve from its iides.
The middle parts of this chain were by the ancients called Sconiii.s and
Orbelus, wiiile tlie bcardiis may be conlidercdasitsfarthell braneli on the
veil. It we place ihc fartliell; eallein point of the Hj;;:ius at Kmineh,
and thence extend it above Filipopoli and Soila to tiic N. of Servia, \vc
fliall find a mountainous tract of more than 400 miles, now known
under various names, as Emiuch, or Hemineh Dag, on the call ; Uid.
kan and Samoco in the middle ; Ivan on the well ; wliile the Dcfpoto
Dag branches off to the S.E., and may perhaps be the Rliodopc of the
ancienta.

From the weftcrn extremity of the Hienuis feem to br: ;.ch off two other j
cxtenfive chains; one running N.W. between l)ulinitli;i on the W. and
Bofnia and Servia on the E., while the other pairing S. forms the nioiiii-
tains of Albania and the \V. of Greece. The chain running to the S. Iwj I
many clalHcal appellations, as the Atrocerauniiui, d^indiis, t\c. TheE.
and S. of Greece are alfo crouded with fmall chains of mountains and
foUtary hills, fuch as Olympus, Ofl'a, Pelius, and otlnTs. Mount Athos,
a detached fiimmit in the N E-* is of confiderable height, but has chiefly
attracted obfervalion from its fingular form, fo much refembiing tluit of
Mont.errat in Spain; and from the many mguullcmt and churches on tlie I
4ttciivitieti of iu piCturefi^tie piuuuclc.

DOTANV.]!

TURKEY IN EUROPE.

JJJ

BoTANV.] While all the Chriftian countries of Europe have been
furveyed with more or lefs accuracy, either by the independent zeal of
their native naturalifts, or under the honourable patronage of their re-
fg^ive governments, the Turkifli empire, containing the mod celebrated
and beautiful provinces on the face of the earth, has been almoft wholly
excluded from the refearches of modern botanifts. The diftant regions
of India, Japan, and Aullralafia, the fultry defarts beyond the Cape of
Good Hope, the peftilential fwamps of America, and the forlorn expanfe
of Siberia, have been penetrated by the indefatigable zeal of the Linnaean
fchool ; their animals, minerals, and vegetables, have been in a confi-
derable degree defcribed and arranged j while the cradle of civilization,
tlie birth-place of thofe arts and fciences that have raifed the nations of
Europe to fo proud an elevation above the reft of the world, has been
trodden for ages paft by barbarian feet. The vegetable tribes that clotho
tlie rocks of the Cvibin Ida, and (hade the fummits of Athos and Oeta,
that adorn with their varied tints the vale of Tempe and the plains of
Theflaly, that baflc on the funny ftioresfcf the ^gean, or rife in ftately
luxuriance on the banks of tlie majeftic Danube, fucceed to each other,
jeneration after generation, unknown and unregarded. A few hafty
gleanings, chiefly from the maritime parts, have been brought home by
travellers ; but of the botany of the interior, efpecially of thofe provinces
which lie between the Danube and the Archipelago, we are almoft wholly
ignorant. ,

The forcfts of Greece, the Greek iflands, and the provinces bordering
the Archipelago to the north, confift of the common and yew-leaved fir,
the larch, the cedar, the ilex, the kermes oak, the common oak, the
oriental plane-tree, the maple, the fyc^more, the walnut, the chefnut, and
the beech. The principal fruit-trees are the olive, confiderable forefts of
which, mixed with the broad-leaved myrtle, adorn the fliores of Crete
jiid Attica ; the orange, the fig, the vine, the piftachia tree, the maftich
tree, the mulberry, and the pomegranate. Of the flirubs and fmaller trees
the moft worthy of notice are the bay-tree, the laurel, two kinds of arbu-
tus, the cyprefs, the oleander, and the caper bufh. A large proportion
nf the foil in Greece and the Greek iflands being calcareous, the Greek
flora, in its prefent imperfed ftate, confifts ^or the moft part of thofe plants
that are pecuhar to lime-ftone diftrifts. The ifland of Crete has always
been celebrated for its vegetable produ£lions, of which the following are
the chief, and all of them indicative of a calcareous foil : Cretan wound-
wort, thillle leaved acanthus, Cretan cigany, Cretan ditany, tragacSnth
vetch (fi-om which the gum of this name is procured), and ladanum cif-
tus ; an elt;gant fhrub, from the leaves and tender ftalks of which the
fragrant gum ladanon exudes ; this is coUeftcd by whipping the plants
with leathern thongs, to which the gum adheres, and off which it is
fcraped from time to time.

Zoology.] The zoology of European Turkey prcfents few pccullari.
[ties, llie jackal, frequent in Africa and Alia, is not unknown in thefe
j regions; and among the beaftt of burden muft be clalTed the camel. The
Turkilh horfes are celebrated for fpirit and form ; and thofe of Walachia
deferve particular praife. The breeds or qualities of their cattle have
been littlo explained. The fhcep diftinguiflied by the name of Walachian
have fpiral horns of lingular elegance; but the tinenefs of the fleece would
I be a more ufeful diftinSion.

MixtHALocY.] The mineralogy of thefe provinces is alfo a barren
jlield ; for the indolence and ignorance of the Turks have generally ne-
Igleftcd this branch of opuleace ; though from the mines in the adjacent

... regions

224

TURKEY IN EUROPE.

regions of Hungary and Tranfylvania, and from the ancient accounts the
would be room to expeft great mineral treafures. The gold mine "^f
PKilippi,. about 80 miles to the eaft of Saloniki, in the time of Philin c
Mcicedon, produced yearly about 10,000 talents, 2,88o,oool. fterlinjr. a d
fdver mines were found in Attica, and otlier quarters *.

Mineral wateus. ] The mineral waters are little known or celebrated •
and the natural curiofities in the northern parts, and around mount Hsmu '
remain undefcribed. Of thofe in the fouth, the principal is the grotto
of i\.ntiparo8, one of the iflaiids of the Cyclades to the weft of Paras
The whole ifle is a rock of fine marble, about fixteen miles in circum'
ference. In its fouthern part, about a mile and a half from the fea, rife"
a rugged cavern, with fome ancient infcriptions. After proceeding about
twenty paces, appears a dark and low paffage, whence the traveller, beiiiff
provided with lights, defcends by a rope, and afterwards by a ladder
placed by the fide of deep abyffes. The path now becomes more eafy, and
condufts to another deep precipice, which is defcended by another ladder
After much fatigue, and fome digger, the traveller at length arrives in th'
protto, which is i"uppofed to be about 900 feet from the firft opening.
Tournefort elUmates the height of the grotto at about 40 fathoms. The
llaladlitic marble hangs fronl the roof, in the molt elegant and pifturefque
forms ; and on the floor "are large maffes of ftalagmite, browiiifl\ and kfs
pure, produced by the liquified ftone dropping from above. A great dif. I
tinftion betw.een this grotto and others of a fimilar kind in England, and I
other countries, is the purity of the material, being marble of a fnoiv
whitenefs, and the fineft calcareous fpar. The marble of Paros has been
known and celebrated fince the claflical times, as the moft pure that the
iculptor can employ ; but fome prefer that of Carrara, as of a finer and I
clofer grain, and more obedient to the chiflel, the Grecian having a large]
cryllalline grain, ant to flit off more largely than required.

• ISLANDS BELONGING TO TURKEY IN EUROPE.

' ■■'» ■ • i , ■ •

The numerous iflands in the Archipelago arc by geographers confidered
as belonging to Europe, except a few which approach the Afiatic (horeJ
as Mytilene, Scio, Samos, Cos, and Rhodes.

The claiTical iflands of ancient Greece have been fo repeatedly defcribed
that little more than an enumeration may fuffice. The largeil is that ol
Crete or Candia, which is about 1 80 Bcitifli miles in length," by 40 as iti
greatell breadth. A chain of high mountains, called the White Mounj
tains, from the fnow, pervades a great part of its length f. The inhi
bitants are vigorous and robuft, and fond of archery. This ifle absund
with cattle, flieep, fwine, poultry, and game, all excellent ; and the winj
is balmy and lufcious. The fiege of Candia by the Turks in the midd'
of the feventeenth century is remarkable in modern hiftory, as having con
tinued for 24 years, 1 646—1670. This ifland had before flouriflicd undd
the Venetians. L

Next is Negropont, anciently called Eubxa, about 100 Britifli miles ij
length by 20 in breadth, a large and important ifland, which alfo bcl(
to the Venetians to a late period J. • v .. -

• See tlie Mineralogy of the Archipda-u by Ikineggs, in llic auUiur's rttmlojj

♦ol. ii. App. ' <

•f- Tuuniefort, i. fio, &c. * '

I Tlie iaei oi Corfu, Ci'Ialoiiin, nnd Ziinte, on the other fide of Greece, ww.rni

lillok" VtiiiicB, feizedhy the Freiuli, but now coiilUtute an indepeifk'iit rrpublit, UiJ

the Htouilion oi Uuilitk ; a curious cxiM.rij»ent UB the g«-niuj of muJcni Or&*c, j

„ . 5. ^^

TURKEY IN EUROPE.

225

%e other ifles are generally of a diminutive fize, and were divided by
the ancients into feparate groups, of which the Cyclades were the moft
jicmorable ; while the Sporades approached the Aliatic (hore. Other
liief names are Lemnos, Skyro, and Aiidro. It muft not be omitted,
that in tl>c year 1 707 a new ifland arofe from the fea, with violent volcanic
(xplofions,. near Santorine, and about a mile in diameter *. The other
jllands fliall be briefly defcribed, under their proper divifion of Afiatic
Turkey- ■ . ' _^ '

HOLLAND.

CHAPTER I.

POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY. •

J/iWiM. — Exient.^ Boundaries. — Dhi/ions. — Origina! Population. — Pro*
^r^ve Geography. — Hijlortcal Epochs and Antiquities.

I ^ ^ '' I ^HE Seven United Provinces weire, in ancient times,
Names. J J_ chiefly poflefled by the Batavi, a people highly cele-
Irated by Tacitus : but the boundaries being modern, there is no ancient
appellation which particularly denotes this country. It is commonly
[ llyled the republic of Holland, from the name of the chief province:
fo called from the German word HohU correfponding with the Englifti
word hollow, and implying a concave or very low country. The peo-
ple are called Dutch from the German Deutfch^ oxTetttfch: but Dcutfch-
y properly fignifles the vaft extent of Germany itfelf, though by
tk Englifli reftnded to a fmall portion ufing a di<de£l of the German
bguage.

Extent.] Thefe provinces extend, from the N. of Groningen to the

Ifoutheru boundary along Auftrian Flanders and Brabant, about 150

Britilh miles ; and in breadth, from what is called the North Sea to the

circle of Weftphalia, about 100 Britifli miles. The number of fquare

I miles is computed at 1 0,000.

Original POPULATION.] The original population appears toliaveboen
[Celtic: but when the Romans conquered this country, the chief iiihabi-
Itants were the Batavi, the moft northern people of Belgic Gaul, and in-
[(onteftibly a German or Gothic progeny ; who appear to have been fecnre
lin their marfhes and iflands, till the Frifians, the next adjacent people in
llhe north, in the feventh century extended themfelvcs even down to tlie
IScheld. In the eighth century the Frifians were fubdued by the Franks
[under Charles Martel ; but the Frifians and Franks may be rcgiirded as
[ningled in the population with the ancient Batnvians f .

Progressive geography.] The progrcflive geography of this region
[becomes curious and interefting, from the fmgular phenomenon of the iii-
Icreafe of the fea. Upon infpe£iing the accurate maps of the ancient and

•The curious reader may find a lyiig detail of tli'is fii'guUr event in Payiic*» Grograjihl-
|«lEKtiaa«, p. Oja — 256.
t D'Auvillcj £uu foroxt! «u Eurof e, p. 36.

^ middle

2i6

HOLLAND.

middle geoffraphy of Gaul by D'Anville, it will be perceived that tlie
Rhine aivi(kd itfelF into two grand branches at Burginafium, or Schenk
about five miles N. W. of the Colonia Trajana, now an inconfiderable
hamlet called Koln, near Clcves. The fouthern branch joined the Meufe
at the town of Mofa, or Meuvi ; while the northern pafled by Durftadt
Utrecht, and Leyden, into the ooean. From the northern branch was
led the canal of Drufus, which originally joined the Rhine to the Iffil
a river that flowed into a confiderable inland lake called Flevo, now a
fouthern portion of the Zuyder Zee. This canal of Drufus being ne-
gleded, and left to the operations of nature, the Rhine joined the IfTil
with fuch force, tliat their conjunA waters increafed the lake of Flevo
to a great extent ; andj inftead of a river of the fame name, which ran
for near 50 Roman miles from that lake to the fea, there was opened the
wide gulph which now forms the entrance. Tlie northern and chief
mouth of the Rhine was, at the fame time, weakened and almoil loil by
the divifion of its waters, and even the canal of Drufus was afterwards
almoil obliterated by the depofition of mud in a low country, in the fame
manner as Come of the ancient mouths of the Nile have difappeared in the
Delta of Egypt.

The fouthern branch of the Rhine, which flowed into the eftuary of
the Meufe, as above mentioned, was anciently called Vahalis, a name re.
taincd in the modern Waal ; the ancient ifle of the Batavi being included
between the two branches of the Rhine, and thus extending about 100
Roman miles in length, by about 2a at the greatelt breadth. Theef.
tuaries of the Meufe and the Scheld have alfo been open to great inroads
from the ocean : and the latter in particular, which anciently formed a
mere delta, with four or five fmall branches, now prefents the iflands of
Zealand^ and the moil fouthern of thofe of Holland, divided by wide
creeks of the fea. This remarkable irruption is fuppofed to have hap.
pened at the time that the Goodwin Sands arofe. Thefe great changes
may be conceived to have made a flow and gradual progreTs : and none
of them feerii fo ancibnt as the time of Charlemagne. Some of them
are fo recent as the fifteenth century ; for^ in 143 1 the ^ftuary of the
Meufe, or Maefe, fuddenly formed a vail lake to the S.E. of Dort, over.
whelming 72 large villagesi with 100,000 inhabitants, who perifhed in the
deluge *.

By a fubfequent change the Rhine was again fubdivided ; and a chief
branch fell into the Leek, which joins the eftuary of the Meufe betweeiv
Dort and Rotterdam, and muft now be regaided as the northern mouth
of that Boble river ; while the Vahalis, or Waal, continues to be tlie
f«uthem ; both branches being loft, at lead in name, in a comparatively
fmall ftream, the Meufe. Tne lefs important variations in the geogra'
phy may be traced with fome precifion in the Francic hiilorians, and
other writers of the middle ages.

HisTORicAi. EPOCHS.] Among the chief hiftorieal epochs may be
numbered : .

I. The anions of the Batavi in the Romas period, firom the firft tan-
tion of that nation by Julius Cxfar.

. 2. The conqueft by the Frifians, and afterwards by tke Danes, and by
the Franks.

5. The countries watered by the Meufe and the Rhine were for a

* Cluver, 96. Guirciardini, 971. Some authors arliitivily aflign thefe cbaiffiuwl
vwlem tpmpefts, A.D. set; others to 1170. A ZeaUndic chronicler, quoted by ibi
iane author, iays that the iflaiidi o( Zealaud wrae tiunued by violent lewyclU iit the jnt I
938, a date which fecms tu dcftrve th*; preference. I

HOLLAND.

iif

liin« divided into fmall earldoms ; but, in the year 923, Theodoric, or
piedric, brother of Herman duke of Saxony, and of Wickman earl of
Ghent, was appointed count of Ifblland by Charles the Simple, king of
Trance, and the title became hereditary. Zealand and Friefland were in-
cluded in the donation. The county of Gelderland on the E. was ereded
Ij the emperor Henry IV. in 1079, and became a duchy in 1339.
Utrecht was fubje6l to its powerful prelates, who had frequent conte'fts
,vith the earls of Holland.

4. Frequent contefts appear between the earls of Holland and thofe of
Flanders, concerning the poflefllon of the iflands of Zealand. Philipina,
daughter of William HL earl of Holland, was married to the prince of
Wales* afterwards lEdward IH. of England, a princefs worthy of an
heroic hufband. This king afterwards contefted the earldom of Holland
vrith Margaret his fifter-inJaw. Jacquelin the heirefs of Holland in 1417
wedded John IV. duke of Brabant ; but her uncle John of Bavaria,
«lio had refigned the biAopric of Liege in the hopes of efpoHfing her,
contefted the lucceffion. A kind 6f anarchy following, Jacquelin went
to England, where fhe married in 1123 Humphry duke of Gloucefter ;
and this marriage being annulled by the pope, (he wedded in 143a Bor-
felen ftadtholder of Holland ; and the next year was forced to relign her
ftates to Philip the Good, duke of Burgundy.

J. Holland, with other large pofTeffions of the houfe of Burgundy, fell
ky marriage to the houfe of Auftria.

6. Holland and fome inferior provinces revolt from the tyranny of
Philip II. in 1566 ; and in 1579 formed the famous union of Utrecht.

f. By the end of that century the Dutch had cltabliflied -colonies at
the Cape of Good Hope, and in the Eaft Indies ; and fettlements were
rfterwards gained^ S. America. During the feventeenth century they
rivalled the EngKfl* in the empire of the fea ; and greatly exceedea them
in commercial advantages. Their power began fomewhat to decline
after the obftinate naval conftifts in the time of Charles II. In 1674
Louis XIV. invades Holland ; and Amfterdam is 01 V faved by opening
the fluices.

8. William ftadtholder of Holland afcends the throne of England
t688 ; and a ftrifter intercourfe prevails between the countries, Hol-
lat)d becoming the grand channel or the commerce of England with the
continent.

9. The ftadtholderate declared hereditary 1747. The war in 1756
opening great connexions between Holland and France, a French party
kegan to form in the country, which oppofed the iladtholder, who was
fupported by the Enghfli. In 1780 a war arofe between Great Britain
and Holland, which clofed 111 1784, after expofmg to Europe the decline
and weaknefs of the United Provinces, ftill farther difplayed by thfe en-
trance of the duke of Brunfwic in 1788, who may be faid to have fubdued
them without a blow.

10. The Dutch having joined the coalition again ft the French, their
country fell a prey to the hitaders during the hard froft of the winter
1794-5 i '"'^ ^^^ ftadtholder took refuge in England in 1795. Though
a feparate government continued, yet the United Provinces miift becon-
fidered as lubjedl to France, whicn intends to incorporate the patts S.
of the Rhine. The Dutch fleet haii iince been nearly annihilated by the
Enriiflu

AwTrotnTiM.] The.andcnt momiments of the United Prdvinces are
far from being numerous or intcrelling. The chief remain of the Roman
period it the ruined tower near Catwick, about fix unilcs N.W. from

Q a X.eyden»

*■•

328

HOLLAND.

Leydcn, at the ancient mouth of the Rhine. In tlie middle of Leyden
upon an artificial hill, ftands a round tower, fabled to have been built
by Hengiil wjio firll led the Saxonj tP England. Among the antiquj.
ties of the two middle ages may be particularly named the church of
Utrecht, with a tower of great height, commanding as it were a map of
the furrounding country, and worthy of the great power of the ancient
bifhops of that fee. > ^ . ,

CHAPTER n.

•POLITICAL CE9GRAPHY. ;. ,

Rellgton. — Ecclcfiajlkal Geography. — Government.-^Latos. — Population.^
Colonies. — Army.~^Navy.-^Revehues, — Political Importance and Re.
iations. t

I,_-„-„„t'T^HE proteftant religion, in the Calviniflic form, pre.
RELIGION. J 2 vails through the United Provinces. The ftates of
Holland, in 1583, propofcd that no other form of worfliip fhould be
tolerated ; but this resolution was wifely rejefted ; and every religion is
permitted, on condition that it do not oppofe the fundamental laws, or
teach any doArines fubverfive of the ftate : yet employments of any con-
fequence can only be filled by proteftants *.

Ecclesiastic ceoguaphy.] The ecclefiallical perfons are confidered
as divided into four ranks, profeflbrs at univerfities, preachers, elders, and
deacons: and the government of the church is adminiftered by confiftories,
claffes, and fynods. The confiftory is the lowelt court, commonly con.
filling of the clergy and elders of a particular town, while a clafs conMs
of deputies from feveral, and is commonly aflembled three times io the
year, a part of its duty being to vifit the churches, and watch over the
condu£l of the- clergy. The fynods are either provincial or national; the
firft being aifembled every year, while the national fynod is only fum.
moned on the mod important occafions, when eflentiar dodtrines are to
be difcufled ; and the lad was that of Dort, 161 8.

There are, befidcs numerous Walloon churches, fcattered through the
provinces, who hold a kind of fynod twice a year, compofcd of deputies
from their own feft. The Roman catholics are fuppofcd to have 350
churches, ferved by 400 priells, cxclufive of fome in the conquered terri-
tory. The chief otlier fefts are the Lutherans, the Remojiftrants, or
Arminians, Baptifts and Jews, and a few Quakers.

CovEHNMENT.] The United Provinces were compofed of fevenre*
publics, each retaining its own ftates> coufiiting of nobles and burgeiTes,
Tl»e provincial ftates fcnt deputies to the ftates-general, who uled to
a(reQ\blc in a ftnall room at the Hague, enjoying the right of peace and
war, appointing and receiving ambafi'adors, naming the greihcr, or fe^
cretary of ftate, and all the ttaff officers -f-. The ftadtholder was origi.
nally a kind of dictator, appointed from the necoflity of the timcii, to I
conduA the emancipation of the ftate. The neceftlty having vanilhed,
this office \)ccamc 01 Rubious authority, till William IH. in 1672. pro.
cured it to \)c declared hereditary. A a he died without children, the
Hales ieized this poweo till 1 747, when the French penetrating into

^ ^ - « JJuAlunjj jjv. part &f« IC*

t Wii, »iv, p 40, 8cc.

Dutch

HOLLAND.

229

Dutch Flanders, the rank was reftored to William TV. and again became
ijfjjitary, though in recent times frequently contefted. Thefe induftri-
yj provinces were recently erefted into a kingdom and afligned by the
french emperor to his brother Louis ; but they have fmce been incor-
porated with France.

Population.] The population of the United Provinces has been
recently computed at 2,758,632, and the extent of the territory in fquare
miles being fuppofed 10,000, there will be 27 j for each mile fqiinre.
The population of Holland, the chief province, is calculated at 980,000.

CoLO>flES.] The Dutch, being, for a confiderable time, the chief
maritime power in Europe, their colonies were numerous ; befidcs fome
fettlements on the qoaft of Hindooftan, and an important eftablifliment
in Ceylon* they held, and ftill retain Batavia in the ifland of Java ; but
the Cape of Good Hope, and other confiderable cftablilhments, have
fallen into the hands of the Englifti, and the Dutch colonies may be con-
Cdered as nearly annihilated.

Army.] The army was computed at about 36,000} but it is now in-
corporated with that of France. The navy, which ufcd to coniift of
forty (hip? of the line, has by the events of the laft war almoll totally
difappeared.

Revenue.] The revenue was about three millions and a half fterling,
but was greatly exceeded by the expenditure; fo that the national debt
was computed at about 1 30,000,000!, fterling : but 2,8oo,oool. were
annually received as the interelt of loans to foreign powers.

FoLiTicAi. IMPORTANCE, &c.] The political importance and rela-
tions of the United Provinces are at prefent completely immerged in
(jjofeof Franc?,

. ,/- r CHAPTER HL

CIVIL GEOGRAPHY. ',

fiiimers and Culloms.— Language. — Literature.— Education. — Univerfiiet.
"Cities ana Towns. — Edifices. — Inland Navigation..— Manu/aSuret
and Commerce.

'- ,. ■ • . y '

M. ..„ .„«^«c^««/t a stranger vlfiting Holland is
Manners AND CUSTOMS.] ^ furprized at the extreme cleanlinef.

obfervable in the houfes and ftreets ; even hamlets inhabited by poor
fiihermen difplaying a neatnefs and frcninefs, which forms a ftriking con-
trail with the fqualid appearance of the German villages. The air being
always moift, and commonly cold, the Dutch drefs is calculated for
warmth and not for elegance. The people are of a phlegmatic tempera-
ment ; and their courage at fea is rather obllinacy than ardour ; ^hile
from the fame caufe th^ir labour is rather flow perfeverance, than impe-
tuous ilrength like that of the Engliih. In former times their knowledge
ft-as chiefly reltridied to two channels j affairs of ftate, on which even
the vulgar would converfe with propriety; and the arts of getting money.
But the latter at length fupplanted every noble thought and generous
leding. This ftriking charatleriftic has imnrefled every fpedlator, /rom
tjiedaysof Ray the naturahft, who vifited Holland in 1663, even to the
prefent hour. A late amiable traveller obfervcs that " the infatuation
of loving money, not as a mean but as an end, is paramount in the mind

a5P

HOLLAND.

of almoft every Dutchman, whatever may be his other difpofition md
qualities ; the addiction to it is fervent, inveterate, invincible, ajid uni.
verfal from youth to the feeblell old age *."

The Dutch are commonly low in ftature, and the women are taller
than the men. Their drefs is little affefted by faihion. The opulent
merchants delight in their villas, thickly planted among the numerous
canals : and the fmallnefs of the gardens was compenfated by the rich.
nefs of the miniature fele^ion, in which perhaps one tulip root mitrht
coft fifty guineas. In the winter, ikating is a favourite amufement
and the canals are crowded with all ranks, from the fenator to the milk!
maid with her pail, and the pcafant with his eggs. But the chief
amufcments, in io moid a climate, are under the (helter of the domeftic
roof, in large and expenfive colleflions of paintings and prints, which
alfo have become an article of commerce and avarice.

Language] The Dutch langua|^e is a dialed of the German ; and
the Lord's Prayer runs in the followmg ter'ns :

Onfe Vader die d*i:r ziji in de Hemektit Uivtn Naem word s^'>theyli^ht.

U Rijcke home. Uwen IVille gbtfchiede obder Aerden^gel'tjck in den Hemel,

Ouf" dagelijcit Broodt ghee ft ens heden. jEude verghee^ ons oufe Schuldcn

gheltjck tvy oock oufe Schuldenaren vergeven. Eude en leyt ons met in Ver.

foeckiHge. Matr verl^ ons vandeu Boo/en- Amen.

L1TERATURE.3 The literature of the Seven United Provinces is ir.ore
refpeftable than that of the other Netherlands. Nu to mention the an-
cient chronicle of the church of Utrecht, and other ecclefiaftical produc.
tions of the middle ages, the g5^*t Erafmus, the reftorer of letters in
Weftem Europe, was born at Rotterdam in 1467, Johannes Scciindus,
or Hands dc Twede, one of the mod elegant of modern Latin poets, was a
native of the Hague, as the renowned Grctius was of Delft. Boerhaave,
the celebrated phyfician, was born at Voorhoor near Leyden. Dort pro.
duced Paul Merula, a diftinguiflied antiquary, who at the beginning of
the feventeenth century firll difcriminated the real origins of European
nations. Adrian Junius, or Yung, who explored the antiquities of his na.
tive country, was of Hoorn on the Zuyder Zee. Among other eminent
names may be mentioned Mcurfius of Laufdcn, Doufa of Leyden, Hein.
fi IS of Ghent, and the younger Voffius. Hoogeveen of Leyden died in
I79<i, after having acquired the reputation of being the firft Greek
fcholar in Europe.

Education, &c.] The mode of education purfued in thefe provinces
fcems to have been greatly inferior to that ufcd in Scotland, a country
enjoying an eccleaullic government fomewhat fimilar. The Dutch
youths t>cing chiefly allotted to a fea-faring life, there was not indeed
opportunity for numerous parochial fchools, and confequent diffufion
of common knowledge. The mod celebrated Latin fchools were at
Rotterdam, Broda, Middleburg, Groningon, &c. The univerfities are
five ; Leyden, Utrecht, Harderwyck Franecker, end Oroningen \ with
two inferior colleges at Amfterdam and Dcvcnter, There is a)i academy
of fciencci at Haarlem.

Cities akd towns.] Amfterdam, the chief city of Holland, upon the
fmall river Amllcl, is fird mentioned in the thirteenth century ; but in the
fourteenth was reckoned among the commercial tbwns of Europe. About
tlic middle of the feventeenth century, during the higheft profpcrity of
the republic, it was enlarged by about^one half, The haven is not dif.
tioguiib<4 1>7 MMuril advantages, but has beep improved and fe^urcd by

• Mn. lUdclilfe, i. 91.

Wt(

HOLLAND.

»3i

jft; and the wide foreft of mafts impreffed every tiaveller with amaze-
niei't. The population is computed at about 212,000. The ftreetsare
srenerally narrow, and the canals feculent. The houfes have the com*
Ln air of neatnefs peculiar to thofe of the Dutch. The chief edifices
jifj the ftatc-houfe, founded on piles at an immenfe expence ; the ex»
cliange> and the poll-office j but fome ftreets along the chief canals dif«
jjy lioufes of uniform grandeur. Some agreeable walks occur in the
interior of the city ; but the environs are chiefly vifited by water j yet to
^g S. there is an agreeable road to Ouderkirk through pleafant gardens
jnd groves*.

Leyden is cfteemed the next city in population, containing about
(0,000 fouls. It is the Lugdunum Batavorum of antiquity, and is dif*
tinguiflied by its univerfity. Here the ancient Rhine almoft expires in a
number of fmall channels, which are paued by fo many bridges, that the
number has been computed at more than one hundred. Tne meadows
and gardens around I^eyden are renvarkably produ6live, and there is a
Jaily intercourfe by canals, with the other chief cities and provinces. The
fair is ftill much frequented ; but the univerfity has declined.

Next is Rotterdam, with a population of about 48,000 ptople. There
i) a noble quay, with houfes as handfome as any in the fquares in London {
and the great length of the llreets is charadleriftic of Dutch cities, and
tven towns ; yet they are generally narrow, and the foot pavement is
only diilinguidied by a clean line of bricks f. In the market place ftands
the well known ftatue of Erafmus.

Haarlem is computed to contain 40,000 fouls ; and, like I^eyden,
is fortified by old brick walls. The great church is efteemed the largeft
ill the province of Holland ; but the celebrated organ is more remark-
able for power than fweetnefs. The houfe of Laurence Cofter, whom
the Dutch fondly affert to have been the inventor of the grand an of
printing, (lands near the church ; but impartial inquirers have decided
tlie quelHon in favour of Mentz.

The Hague is only efteemed a village, though the inhabitants be com*
puted at 36,000. The court, or palace, contains feveral chambers allotted
to the different branches of government, befides the apartments of tlie
Stadtholder. The ftatcs-general meet in a room which contained twenty*
lix chairs, for the ufual number of the members |. The cabinet of na»
tural hillory has been carried to France, and probably the raoft curious
books and piAures. The H >.gue is diftingui(hed by its pleafant fituatioa
and tranquil grandeur.

Middloburg in Zealand is fupi)ofed to contain 30,000 inhabitants j and
it has a large town-houfe, decorated with the ftatues of the ancient earls
and counttlles of Holland. It was not only the feat of the provincial
Hates, but alfo of the council of Flanders, prefiding over part of that
country acquired by the Dutch. Utrecht, Delft, Dort, and Groningen,
its: fiippofed each to contain about 20. 000 inhabitants : and among the
inferior cities may be named Mai'ftricht, the moll fouthern of the Dutch
poirL'flions, fituated on the river M"cfe, or Meufe, and ceded to the Dutch*
after repeated contells, by the peace of Nimeguen 1 678: in the vicinit]f
are vail Hone quarries fupported by numerous pillars.

Inland NAVioATiuN.l To enumerate the canals of the United Pro»
vincus would be inlinite, for they equal the roads in other countries t *»<!
the advantage mull be the mure perceived during the interruption of ma«

• JUdcllife, i. US,

t Ibid. i. 16.

; Ibid. i. 49.

ruime

»3>

HOLLAND.

ritime commerce, by the increafe of the inland trade with Germanv tli
fouthern Netherlands, and France. ^' *

MANUi'ACTUKiis AND coMMEiicE.] The chief manufaftures of H I
land arc linens, many of which however are made in Silefia; pottery A
painted tiles, efpecially at Delft ; leather, wax, fnufF, fugar, ftarch pan
befides fome of woollen, cotton, and filk *. But the molt precious bran l!
of commerce confifted in fpices and drugs, brought from the fettleitient •
in tlie Eaft Indies ; and the Dutch Eaft India company was, for a con^
fiderable time, the greateft mercantile firm in Europe. The fifhery in tl "
Northern Seas, and even on their own and the Englifh coalls, was alfo a
obje£l of great commefcial importance. Latterly perhaps the chief ad
vantage was derived from Holland being the grand depofit of commcrc*
between Great Britain and the continent, particularly Germany and
France. The inland trade with Germany, by the canals and the Rhin'^
is ahnod the only branch which has cfcaped the ravages of war. Of this
the mod remarkable feature confifts in the vail floats of timber, which
arrive at Dort from Andernach, and other places on the Rhine, vvhofe
.eopious ftream received the trees of the German forefts.- The length of
thefe rafts is from 700 to 1000 feet, the breadth from 50 to 90 : and
500 labourers diredl the floating ifland, which is crowned with a villas
of timber huts for their reception. The navigation is conduced vvitli
the llri£teft regularity : and on their arrival at Dort the fale of om.-
raft occupies feveral months, and frequently produces mure than
30,000!. fterhng f . The other brandies of inland traflic are numeroii's :
and the Rhine may be faid to fupply Holland with infula* advanta
ftcure from the iellrudive inroads of maritime war.

ft''-'i

CHAPTER IV.

NATL'KAL CEOGRAPIIV.

Climate- and Seafons.'— Face of the Country. — Soil and yfj^ruulture.— 'Riven,

■ — Lakes. Afoutilains. Forejh. ~-JUotany.'-—Zoo/ogy.'—Mintralo^y.~-

Mineral IVatirs, — Natural Curiofities.

n . T HUMIDITY and cold are the chief

Climate AND SE.1S0K...] ]- j[ charaftorllUcs of the climate of the
United Provinces. The general face of the country is that of a large
marfli which has been dniined ; the canals, and even the fea, looking pale
and difcolourcd by mud ; but the numerous and important cities and
towns excite admiration, and the molt dignified ideas of the woiidirfid
powers of induftry, which fcems to have felcfted a chief feat amidft the
greateil natural difadvantagcs. And even among thefe marlhcs the eye
IS relieved by the groves, gardens, and meadows ; and to the raft of
UtrCcht the woods and hills gently Iwcll towards Germany. Yet the
eaft of Dutch Brabant is ftill disfigured by the large morafa of Peal,
extending about ^o Britifh miles in longtli : Qver-Yflel, fo callrd from
its weftern boundary of the Iflel, which received the canal led Ijy Drufiis
from the Rhine, is almotl wholly compofed of enormous marlhcs and
heaths ; and the morafs of Bourlang rivals that of Peal in extent. The
northern provinces of Fricfland and Groiiingen, (parts of the aneiint
f rilia which included alfo the pniicipulity of call Friefland now bt-

• Mirfli«], vul. i, aas—i.'ii.

t KudiMe, ii. 114.

longing

r _

HOLLAND.

^33

uma^ to Pruflia,) prcfent towards the S. and S.E. extenfivc heaths;
vhile tlie parts towards the fea rival the morafles of Holland. Tims the
ytliole country may be faid to difplay an intimate combination of land
jj(j water ; and the few elevations comi.n6nly confift of barren fand.

Soil and aguiculture.J The agriculture of fuch provinces cannot
lieexpci^tcd tobe conliderable,: the land being mottly under pafturage,
txccpt a few crops of madder, and tobacco, which arc cultivated with
mat predileftion *. The padurages in the north of Holland, efpe-
jjally thofe of Bemfler, and in Friefland, fupply fuch quantities of ex-
cellent butter, as to become a ftaple article of commerce. Tjie cows
fjem to have been originally from Holftein, and the utmoil attention
is paiil to warmth and cleanlinefs, fo that even in fummer the animals
appear in the meadows clothed with ludicrous care f .

RiVF.its.] The chief rivers of the United Provinces are the Rhine and
theMeufe ; the latter liere retieivMng at its eftuary the Aa, joined with
the Donicl from the S. ; and from the N. that great outlet oi" the Rhine
called the Waal : and near 40 Britifh miles farther to theW. the fecond
/rrand outlet of the Rhine, called the Lock, joins the Meufe, after which
[jiit a finall ftrcam paflesby I^eyden to the German ocean. The principal
river falling into the Zuydcr Zceis the Iff'el, which rifes not far to the
S.W. of Munller, and after receiving the canal of Drufus near DuiTberg
(jccoini's a confidcrable Rrcam. On the N. of thi» is the fmall elluary of
Wetlit, which riles to the N. of Munfter. The rivers of Friefland and
Groningcn are fo diminutive that they are moftly loft in the numerous
cana's before tliey join the fea.

Lakes.] The lakes are of fmall extent, if we except what is called
the fea of Haarlem, on the N. of which is the Y, a broad piece of water
pafling by Amfterdam, rather wearing the femblance of a creek of the
lea, than of a river. There are other fmall lakes in the N. of Hol-
land, and in Friefland and in Groningen : not to mention fome amidll
till' marflies of Over-Yflel.

Pi;()uRi;,s.si\ i: ciKOGiiAi'UV.] Of mountains there is not the moft dif-
tant fenihlancc ; and even the few hills towards the E. may niore properly
be denominated little elevated trafts of fand.

Botany.] When it isconfidcred that the Batavian territory is dcfti-
tjtc of wood-lands, of mounlains, and of limeftone diftriAs, it willcafiiy
lie perceived in what refpccls its flora is inferior to that of Britain ; we
(liould fearch in vain among the fvvamps, the level meadows, or the fandy
heaths of Holland for the numerous Ipecies of orchidex, and of papilio*
naeeous plants that inhabit th-j beech-woods of Suflex and Kent, or the
open chalk downs of the foutliern and midland counties ; and though the
bkik ht'atlis of Gilder and Ovor-Yflel may furnifli a ffew of our moun-
tiiinous jdaiitH ; yet thofe tlmt dwell by the rufliing torrents of Wales
and Scotland, that llx thcmf •Ives to the rocky bottom of fiur pellucid
lakes, or flourifli in the claidy folitude of Snowdon, of Skiddaw, or
of Ben Nevis, are wholly wanting in the lift of indigenous Batavian
vegetables. The only jjlants poffefled by Holland whit-h are not found
ill the Uritidi iilands are certain aquatic plants, natives of the Rhine,
ami other waters in the province of I lolland ; and campanula perficifolia,
cveiiinpr prir.irofe, and a few more growing on the frontiers of Brabant
aiul \Vellphalia.

Ztioi.oiiv.] In the /oology of the United Provinces there is nothing
peculiar, or v/orthy of remark; the horfes are chiefly from England and

• Murllul, i, 'idi.

tU>i'l. i. J7.

Flanders,

»54

HOLLAND.

Flanders, the oxen from Holftein. The ftork is here frequent, thou S J
unknown in England. The fliores abound with excellent fi(h, particularl
turbot and foals. ^ I

Mineralogy.] Minerals are unknown, if we except the fliprht incifion*
for peat j which the Dutch not only procure from tlie njoraffes, but al o
from the bottoms of the river, by dragging up the mud, which is cxpofed
to dry on the (hore, then cut into fmaU pieces and again dried for ufe
No medical waters are here known ; and there are few uncommon ap!
pearances of nature, though the whole country may be deemed an ar!
tificial curiofity, from the number of canals, and from the vaft dykes I
fre^ed to exclude the fea.

DENMARK.
CHAPTER!.

HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.

NottMt—Extent. — Bonndaries. — Original PotulatioH. — Progre/five Ceogra^
phj. — Hijlortcal Epochs ana Antiquitut»

Kamss 1 TP^E name of Denmark, implying the marches, bounda.
IN M .J J^ fjgg^ Qf territories, of the Danes, is derived from the i
inhabitants who are firil mentioned by this appellation in the fixth century, I
when we begin to acquire a faint idea of Scandinavia from the hiilory of
Jornandes. Norway, anciently Norrick, or the northern kingdom, affords
a palpable and precife derivation. j

Extent.] Thefe kingdoms, which in former times have, by repeated
emigrations, changed the delUnies of a great part of Europe, and con.
tinue deeply to intereft the iludent of hiltory, conftitutc a fingular expan.
fion of territory. For from the river Elbe, in the fouth, to the northern
extremity of Dani(h Lapland, and the wild environs of the river Tana,
may be computed, after excluding the entrance of the Baltic, an extent of
not lefs than 1400 Britifl) miles in length, by a medial breadth of only 150.
Of this great length, Denmark occupies about 260 miles, while the re.
maindcr belongs to Norway. This extent of coaft might be fnppofed to
conilitute a ^rmidable naval power : but unfortunately the havens are
neither'numerous nor important, and are better adapted to the fleets of
fmall veffels which formerly (Iruck Europe with difmay, than to the pomp
and magnitude of modern navigation. To the fouth the Danifl] province
of HoUtein borders on the wide territories of Germany ; on the cad,
weft, and north, Denmark is furrounded by the fea. The eallern limits
pf Norway are chiefly indicated by a long chain of mountains, paiTiug
|)et ween that country and Sweden.

Divisions.] The territories fubjeA to the crown of Denmark arc
divided int« tlic following

Denmark Proper i

)rovmce8 :
I. Jutland.
Ifle of Funen.
Ifle of Zeeland,
Slefwick.
Holftein,

2.
3-

6. Chriftianfiuid.

.-. i

it, though
>articularly

ht incifions
-8> but alo
liscxpofed]
d for ufe. \
)mmon ap,
:mecl an ar. 1
vaft dykes]

^w GtD^a*

les, bounda. I
;d from . the j
ith century, |
be hiftory of
dom, affords I

by repeated j
e, and con. {
rular expan>
the northern I
: river Tana,
I an extent of
of only ijo. !
while the re-

fuppofedto]
le havens are
the fleets of I
I to the pomp
nid) province I

on the caft,
eallern limits
ains, pafliiigl

)enmark w\

^hri(lianf»Dd.

Hotv

Origin
to have co
Welfh; ar
Jutland an(
the Citnbri
name, whil«
who afterv
relided in t
Anglcii. '
jiitutes the
Laps, who
allegoricallj
population
I and the Noi
I and yellow
! £ngland.

PaOGRES

I may be trac

Ciierfonefe 1

I of the Dane

of Zeeland,

adds that th

prefenting e

I we ruled h

I afterwards b

[and the Frar

■gave a minu

ICrammaticu

The geoF

I there realo

y, had b<

Iwardi arife f<

jjomandes ; i

ortod to tlie

The chief

ntely coniidt

Historic^

Kntai part a

2. The CO

pcandinavia i

pm the Ge:

|regian.

.3- TheRo
fliny and Ta

* This fpepii^

DENMARK.

*3S

Norway — i

[

6. Chriftianfand.

7. Aggerhuus.

8. Bergen.

9. Drontheim.

10. Norland. , .' '

11. Finmark.

12. Ifle of Iceland. .•'

1 3. Ifles of Faroe *.

OniGiNAL POPULATION.] The original population ofDcnmarkappfar*
to have confilted of Cimbri, or Northern Celts, the anceftors of our
^el(h ; and who in particular held the Cimbric Clierlbnefe, or modern
Jutland and Slefwic. On the progrefs of the Goths front the N. and £.
the Cimbri were expelled. Yet the Cherfonefe continued to retain theit -
name, while pofTefled by feven Gothic tribes, among which were the Angli»
vho afterwards gave appellation to England, and who appear to have
relided in the eaftern part of Slefwic, where there is ftill the province of
j\nffleii. The original poffeflbrs'of Norway, which, with Sweden, con-
jlitutesthe ancient Scandinavia, appear to have been the Fins and the
Laps, who were driven to the northern extremities by tlve Gothic invafion,
allegorically faid to have been conduced by Odin the God of War. The
population has fince continued pure and unmixed by foreign conquefts ;
and the Norwegians {jtill retain the mufcular frame, blooming countenance*
I and yellow hair of the Normans, fo well known in France, Italy, and
England.

PiioGRESSiVE GEOGRAPHY.] The progreflive geograpny of Denmark

I may be traced with fome preciiion from the firft mention of the Cimbric

Cherfonefe by ailoniflied Rome. Tacitus defcribes the Suioket, anceftors

of the Danes, as conltituting ilates fituated in the fea, that is in the iflanda

of Zeeland, and others which ftill form the feat of Danifli power f . He

adds that they had fleets, their fhips being of a Angular form, capable of

prefenting either end as a prow ; that they bad acquired wealth, and

were ruled by a monarch. The progreiTive geography of Denmark may

[afterwards be illuftrated from various paffages, elpecially from Jornandes,

land the Francic hiftorians, till Adam of Bremen, in the eleventh century,

I gave a minute defcription of the country, and their own hiftorian Saxo

unmmaticus compofed his claffical work about the year 1180.

The geography of Norway, as may be expe£ted, is more obfcure ; nor
III there reaion to believe that any part, except its moft fouthehi extre«
Imity, had been feen by the Roman mariner^. Few materials even after-
Iwardi arife for the progreflive geography of this country, till the time of
Ijoniandes ; whofe account is fucceeded by the navigation of Ohter re-

orted to the great Alfred, and the defcription by Adam of Bremen.

The chief Kiftorical epochs of thefe conjundi kingdoms muft \te fepao
lately conlidered, till their union in the fourteenth century.

Historical epochs.] i. The moll ancient population of tbe conti*
ental part of Denmark by the Cimbri.

2. The conqueil by the Gothd, who appear to have proceeded from
Bcandinavia into the Ifles and Jutland, as the diale£l differs greatly
p-om the German Gothic, while it is a After of the Swedifli and Nor-
|regian.

3. The Roman and Francip accounts of Deqmark| from thejtime of
tky and Tacitus to tfiat of Charlemagne.

I • Thit fpclliDs i* not ^ BOM jiift, but (isivss \» diftiiig^ <tktm ftoty the ifle of ?«!••
ItCicrm. C.44. • . *

4« TH

'53^

DENMARK.

4. The fabulous and traditional hiftory of Denmark, which exterrf
from about the year of Chrift 50010 the reign of Heriold, mentioned b*
the Francic hiftorians in the time of Charlemagne. '

5. The conqueft of Denmark by Olaf II. king of Sweden, about the
year 900.

6. The more certain hiftory commences with Gurm, or Gormo, A n
920, but there feems no evidence whether hefprnng from a native race or
from the Swedifh or Norwegian. Gormo is fiiccceded by his fon Har'ald
Blaatand 945, who is folIowtHl by his fon Swein, 985, wt-U known by his
invafion of England, where he in fome nieafurc ufurped the fovcreigntv
and died A. D. 1014. .

7. The reign of Canute the Great, king of Denmark, England, and
Norway. The converfion of Denmark to Chriftianity had commenced
in the beginning of the ninth century ; but Chriilianity was far from bein?
univerfal there till the reign of Canute the Great, when it was followed
by its univerfal confequences, the ceflation of piracy and rapine, and the
Uiffufion of induftry and civilization.

8. The reign of Waldemar, furnamed the Great, A. D. 1157, ''ho
defeats the Wends, or Slavonic inhabitants of the fouthern fhores of th«
Baltic in many battles, and fubdues the ifle of Rugen. Hence followed
flowly the converfion of Fonierania, and of the countries on the call.
Waldemar is regarded as the parent of the DaniHi laws.

9. The marriage of Hakgn VI. king of Norway, with Margaret
daughter of Waldemar III. king of Denmark, A. D. 1363, produced
the memorable union of the three crowns of the north. On the death
of her young fon, Margaret afcended the throne of Denmark and Norvi-av
in 13^* and that of Sweden in 1389. Her hufband, Eric of Pome,
rania, reigned about 26 years after her death; and. was followed by
Chriftopher of Bavaria, who removed the royal refidence from Roikildto i
Copenhagen.

10. The acceffion of thehoufe of Oldenburg, in theperfon of Chrif.
tiern I., A. D. 1448. The repeated revolts of Sweden were fuppreffed
by his fucceffor John, who was crowned at Stockholm in 1497*

1 1. The tyrannical and unhappy reign of Chriiliern II., when Swedei
was emancipated by the efforts of GuftafWafe.

12. The abolition of the Roman Catholic religion by Chriftiem III,
1537 ; but the Lutheran had been already introduced in 1526.

13. The reigns of Chriiliern IV. and his fucceifor Frederic III,, who
vras conilrainedto fign a treaty in March 1 660, by which he abandoned to I
Sweden the valuable province of Scone, and other parts in the fouth of I
Scandinavia, which had long remained in the poileflion of the Danes J
together with the fertile ifland of Rugen.

14. The memorable revolution of the 23d Oftober 1660, by whichthel
crown was declared abfolute and hereditary. The fubfequent events have!
been little memorable. I

Of the Norwegian hiftory the chief epochs may be confidered in thtl
following order :

f. The original population by the Fin$ and Laplanders.

2. The conqueft by the Goths.

3. The reduction of all the petty monarchies into one kingdom bjl
^larald Harfagre about A. D. 910. During the conteft many difconT
touted princes and nobles left the kingdom ; and among others Gangd
Hrolf, or Rollo the Walker, proceeded to France ; whure, in the year!
Q12, the province afterwards ftyled Normapdy was furr«iidered to hiuil
and his warlike followers.

4- Th

DENMARK.

45?

i. The reign of Olaf I., when Norway and Iceland were converted to
ChriftianJty- Greenland had been difcovered A. D. 982, by Eric the
Red and nis attendants, from Iceland ; which ifland was itfelf peopled
from Norway 874 — 880. In the reign of Olaf I , Vinland, or Wine-
land, a more fouthern part of N. America, was difcovered by Biam, and
Ij-Lcif, fonof Eric the Ked, A. D. 1003. The little colony, fettled
Jyjnland about 1006, periflied from inteltine divifions. The country
ws fo called from fome wild grapes or berries ; and is fuppofed to have
been on the coaft of Labrador, or more probably the ifland of New-
foundland.

r. Theinvafion of England by Harald III., who was flain in a battle
jpiinft Harold king of England, on the 25th of September, 1066.

6. Magnus II., mtke year 1098, fubdued the Orkneys andHebudes,
fthich had been fubjeft to the Normans from about 850; but the earls had
itfufed homage to the Norwegian kings. -

•J. The Hebudes, or wellern iflands, were furrendered to Scotland^
A, D. 1266, by Magnus V. ; but.thc Orkneys continued to be regarded
asfubjed to Norway till the year 1468. Iceland, which had exifted
^ an independent republic, about tliis time became fubje£fc to Nor-
way *•

8. The final union of Norway with Denmark A. D. 1387. ^

Antiquities.] The ancient monuments of Denmark and Norway
are chiefly what are called Runic ; though it be not clear at what period
the ufe of the Runic charafters extended fo ht to the north. Circles of
upright ttones are common in all the Danifh dominions ; in Iceland their
jriginisperfeftly afcertained, as fome were eredled even in recent times
of the Icelandic republic, being called Domhring, or Circles of Judg-
ment. Monuments alfo occur of the other forms imagined by our anti-
quaries to be Druidic. The churches of Bergen and of Drontheim were
both built of ftone in the eleventh century. The refidences of the chiefs
appear to have been generally conllriidled of wood, for there are few
ancient caftles to be found in Denmark or Norway,

CHAPTER II.

POLITICAL GEOGRAPHIC*'

■*'

Mpon. — Ecclejiajlical Geography. -'Government, — Lotus. — Population.-^
Colonies.— /Irmy, — Navy.— Revenue. - Political Importance and Rela-
tions.

\ ,,„rtv tTH^^ religion of Denmark and Norway is the Lu-
4ELICI0N.J j[ theran. Thwe is no archbifliop ; but the bifliop-

ricks are twelve, fix in Denmark, four in Norway, and two in Iceland.

The chief fee is that of Zeeland, which yields about loool. a year ; the

|)tlier clerical orders are provolls, or archdeacons, parilh priefts, and chap-
lins. The parochial clergy are maintained by their glebes, tithes, and

turplice fees ; but in Jutlaud fome of the livings do not exceed aol. a

rear.
Government] Since tlie revolution of 1660, the Danifli government
«is beeu an abfolutc monarchy. That revolution wa« produced by the

fTuir,Hift.Nor. iv,331«

obfUnacjr

«3«

DENMARK.

obilinacy of the nobility, and confequent enmity of the clergy and bursrcfT
who perceived no other means of humbling their adverfaries. '

Laws. ] The Danifli government has however been generally condufte 1
with mildnefs and moderation ; and their regal adls pafs through man
councils, who carefully obferve the legal forms. The laws are chieflv
comprifed in the code of Chrilliern V., who reigned in the end of t)I
fevcnteenth century.

PopuLATiOK.] The population of the Dinifli dominions is computed
at two millions and a half ; though there feems little room to infer that it
yields to tKat of Sweden. If we fuppofe the fquare contents to beabont
180,000 miles, there will only be 1 2 inhabitants to the fquare mile. I^jor.
way is not fuppofed to contain more than 700,000 fouls, nor Iceland
above 50,000, the former only yielding fix, the latter one to the fquare
mile.

Colonies.] Denmark poflefles fome fmall colonies, as Tranquebar on
the coaft of Coromandel, Chridianfburg on the coaft of Guinea, a fmall
part of Greenland in America ; with three iHands in the Weft Indies
8t. Jan, St. Thomas, and St. Croix, of which the latter was purchafed
from Frtmce in 1733*

Armv, &c.] Tiie army of this kingdom is computed at 70,000 men,
of which Denmark fupplies about 40,000, and Norway the remainder.
The navy, prior to the late enga^emc^t with the Englifli off Copen.
hagen, confifted of 33 (hips of the hne, manned by about 1 1,000 feamen,
and 5000 marines ; but has Hnce been reduced by the Englifh unprece.
dented aflault, which difplayed an equal contempt of Chrillian juftice
and found policy, and only ferved to ruin our influence in the north of
Europe. 1

Rrvbkve.3 The annual revenue is con;yputed at about one million
and a half fterling, being fuperior to that of Sweden, Denmark contriJ
butes 545,^54!.; Norway 290,000!.; Slefwic and Holllein 300,0001.;
the Weft Indian iflands 262,000!. ; tlie toll levied upon (hips paiTingthe
Sound 122,^54!.; Altona 3,150!. The expences of the ftateamountl
annually to about 1,050,000!. ; and it is burthened with a debt of|
2,6oo,oool *.

Political importance avd relations.] Denmark arid Norway!
have long ceafed to be- objects of terror to the fouthern powers, qnd cen.l
turies have elapfed fmce any of the monarchs has been diftin^uifhed inl
war ; while the Swedes, on the contrary, have maintained their martiill
fpirit. A timid policy has long united this monarchy in alliance with
Rufl^ at a mean of fecurity againft Sweden ; but more wifdom woaldl
iq»pear in a firm alliance with Sweden and Pniflla againft the exorbitanll
power of the Ruflian empire. At prefent Denmark is in ftriA alliincft
with France, which has teverfed the govenunent of Sweden."

. ; :; ■ * fioettichet's Tablet.

^ ; X:

CHAPI

v^*^

DENMARK.

CHAPTER III.

1 . i'

CIVIL OEOCRAPHY* ' ,

Ujimers and Cujlnms. — Language. — Literature. — Education,^— Xlnvoejrfitlet.
^Cities and Towns. — Edifices. — Roads. — Inland Navigation. — ManU'
ures and Commerce.

Manners and customs.]

THE manners and cultoms of tlie
fuperior Danes differ little from
thofe of the fame claffes in othe'- parts of Europe. The peafantry con-
tinue in a ilate of valfalage ? except thofe of the crown, who have been
recently delivered by the patriotifm of the heir apparent* and a few other
inftances. They are of courfe idle, dirty, and difpirited. In Norway on
the contrary, every peafant breathes the air of freedom* except thofe of a
few noble eftates near Frederickftadt. The Norwegian pealants are fpi«
rited, frank, open, and undaunted, but not infolent ; in the comforts of
life they feem to yield to none, except fome of the Swifs : their ufual drefa
is of a ftone colour, with red button>holes, and white metal buttons ; and
the women often appear only drefled in a petticoat and (hift, with a dofe
collar round their throat, and a black fa(h. Their ufual bread, like that
of the Scotiih peafantry, confiilsof flat cakes of oatmeal : which in time*
of great fcarcity is mingled with the white inner rind of trees *.

Laplanders.] At the fartheft northern extremity of Norway is the
region of FinmarK, or more properly Lapmark, being a large province
poiTeifed by the Daniih Laplanders, and extending even to the eaft of
Cape Nord, towards RuiTian Lapland. The inhabitants of this wild and
remote province have been defcribcd at conliderable length by Leems»
I vho has prefented a complete and faithful picture of Laplandic man-
ners f. This Angular race of men is of a fmall fize, generally about four
feet, with fliort black hair, narrow dark eyes, large heads and nigh cheeek-
bones, a wide mouth and thick lips, and a fwarthy complexion. In the
fouthern part of Finmark they are mingled with Norwegians ; but the
northeni wildernefs is wholly their own. They call themfelves Samct their
fpeech Samt'giel, and their country Same Edniit being probably of the
bm nee as the Samoides. Towards the fliore they build huts ; and o%
I the mountains ufe tents of a flatly coniu form, and divided by feveral rude
I partitions into apartments for themfelves, their fervants and cattle. The
I fun is here abfent for feven weeks ; yet from ten in the forenoon to one in
I the afternoon there is a kind of twilight even in the (horteft days* fo that
lone may read without a candle ; but the Hars are very vifible, and the
loioon, when apparent, fhines all the day. In return, the fun never fets
Ifor feven weeks of fummer ; biit his beams are dull and remifs in the night*
Iwhen he aflumes a ruddy hue. Tlie rivers fupply falmon and other n(h*
liconfiderable part of the Laplandic food } but at a feftival are feen mut-
|ton or rein deer, and mead. The men wear conic red caps lined with
ir, and a kind of robe of cloth' or fkin ; the poor fometimes ufing that of
non, which appears Hke a white fliagreen. Till recent times they were
nerfed in paganifm* regarding particular mountains and rocks as holy :

•Coic, V. 9. '*

,t Lremiin de Lnponibus FtnmBRkiae. Copenbtj^n, 1767, 4to. Scbeflhr utatt of
' ! Sivcdiili Laplaiukn : of th« UuQIm there iwems no amplt accouot.

their

-^J

i\t

DfiMMARIt.

their chief god was Radicn, who dwelled in the (tarry heaven ; in the lowpit
aerial regions were Btivi or the fun, with Horangalis or the thundere
and other divinities. '

Amidil the converfion of the northern nations to Chriftianity thf
Laplanders have been iniaccountably ncglefted. Eric Bredal, bifliop of
Dronthcim, made fome vain attempts about the year 1 660 ; but the roval
miffion was not founded till 1714. Since that period the miilionaries
have exerted themfelves with great fucccfs.

The manners and cuftoms of the Grecnlandcrs fhall be confidered in
treating of North America.

The people of Iceland being of Norwegian extrad have few peculiar
manners, but retain more of the ancient drcfa and culloms of their an-
ceftors. They are conitrained to prepare flour from various plants de-
fcribed by Von Troil, and their chief animnl nutriment is dried liih* the
common beverage is fyra or four whey, kept in cafl<8 and left to ferment
beer being fcarcc.

Lanouac.e.] If we except the T^aponic, the languages fpokcn in tlie
Danifh dominions arc all fiiler dialeds of the Gothic. The Icelandic is
the moft ancient and venerable^ and being clleemed the molt pure dia^ct
of the Gotliic, has engaged the attention of many profound fcholars, who
havQ confidered it as the parent of the Norwegian, Duiifli and Sweililli,
and in a great degree of the Englilh, though it would fccm that this lalk
is more conneded with the Frilic, and other dialefts of the north of Ger-
many. In the' ancient Icelandic the I^ord's prayer is as follov.s :

Fa .'or iior fom ejl i Himlum. Hal^nd ivank ih'itt nama. 'Il'ionime tli'itt
R'lhk. Site win Viliefofom't H'lmmahm Jh och po lonhwne. Wort dnchikha
Brodh g'lf OS I dagh, 0<^h forlat as uora Sku'Jitr fn fom ogh t'i fnrlate thm
cs Sh'dJ'ighe are. Oh inled as ihh'ic i Frcjioljm. Ulan fids os ijra (Jmk.
ylmen.

In the Finnilh it is as follows : *

Ifa me'idan joca old taiivaffit, Pyhitetty olrnn Jinum N'imcs. Lnhcs Itihon
finum IVa'dtuundtis. Olcon Jinum tahtos ti'/in vuiafca cu'tn ta'irvntfa. Annj
meile tannpa'iivana me'tttan jocn pa'tivnhien Idpain. Sti auiia mt'illc ninihin fin-
dim andixi nunculn mekin atuLx atinam wcUhtn iceliL-oltyhn, J a ala tab Jutu
tndta liufauxen. Muttapaajla meiia pahafla. ylmen.

And thus in the Laplandic :

/llhi m'ljum juco ke.almenf'Jhe. jlilis z'taddai tti Kam. Zwr'tguhjltulu
Byhi. Zitiddtts tu IVdllo nankuchte almefr.f mm e'l ediui maiimd. IVadit ;
mijai iidni m'ljan fart p/rfiven la'tbrbm. J.d) ei'iJitpfloiii' ml jcnujan futU'r.i\
tiHukuchte m'lje andagnjloitebt Imd't m'lje ivel^o^as lUn. J ah Jijfalaid't m'tjahm,
JEle tocko i^clzitllfima pahqfl. /I men.

It will hence appear that the Laplanders have borrowed fometenrjj
from the Gothic, as well as from tiie l''iiuii(h.

LitkkatlKi;.] The literature of Denmark cannot afpire to tmiclij
^antiquity, having followed, as ufual, the introduction ot Chriftianity,
which was not cftabliihed till the eleventh century. In the next ccnturrj
lived Saxo Grainmaticus, whofe hiUory of Denmark abounds with!
fable, but whofe llyle and manner arc fmprizingly clalhcal for ihatl
age. His contemporary or predecclVor, Sveno, is more veracious audi
concife, and is ellecmcd the father of Daiiilh hillory. Norway t ;iinot|
boall of a native writer, till a recent period. But it is a truly lin|.Mil.ir^
circninllance in the hillory of European Hteraturc, that letters li "
flourilhed in the remote republic of Iceland, from the eleventh to tha
fourteenth renturv ; and, independent of thr fabulous Sagas, wliicli
inijjlit bu* cuuateti by hundtvdi, the fulid and valuable works then pr

ft duco

DENMARK.

241

Sliced in t!iat idaiK) might fill a confiderable catalogue. From Iceland
we derived the Edda, and our knowledge of the ancient Gothic mytho-
lojjy. From Iceland the Swedes, Norwegians, Danes, and Orcadians
jrevv their chief intelligence concerning their ancient hittory, Snorro in
particular being ftyled the Herodotus of the north : and the Landnama,
orbpok of thex)rigins of Iceland, is an unique work, difplaying the
^aniis and property of all the original fettlers, and the circiimftances
jttending the diilribution of a barbaric colony.

After the reftoration of letters, Denmark continued to maintain her
ffonted al'ccndancy over Sweden } and the name of Tycho Brahe is yet
celebrated ; but his little ifle of Hwen, noted for his aftronomical ob-
ferviitions, now belongs to Sweden. The botany of Denmark has been
ilkiftrated by CEder; and Niebuhr is diiUnguiflied as an intelligent
traveller : but in the other parts of fcience and literature there feems
to be a deplorable deficiency.

Education.] The filence of travellers and geographers concerning
the modes of education purfued'in different countries has been more
than once regretted in this work ; but the materials are not equally
Jcticient concerning Denmark. Each parifli is provided with two or
tliav ichools, where children are taught to read and write their native
tongue, and the principles of arithmetic : the fchoolmafters are allowed
about 1 2I. a year, with a houfe, and fome other advantages *. There are
bolides many Latin fchouls maintained at the royal expence ; 16 in
Holllein; II in Slefwic ; 19 in Denmark Proper, or Jutland, and the
iiles; but only four in the wide extent of Norway ; and tvvo in Iceland.
There is alfo a fpccial feminary for the Laplanders at Bergen : and
at Soroe, Odenfee, and Altona, there are fuperior academics of edu-
cation.

Universities.] The univerfities are at Copenhagen and Kiel.
The Royal Academy of Sciences was founded in 1742, but has been
mure dilHnguilhed in natural antiquities than natural hidory. In
1^46 was founded the fociety for the improvement of northern hiftory,
alfo jtyled the royal fociety of Icelandic literature. There is another
refpettable iiiilitution at Drontheim, ftyled the royal fociety of
fcieiices. Thefe foundations confer honour on the Danifli govern-
ment, and will doubtlefs contribute to difl'ufe fcience and infpire emu-
lation.

Cities and towns.] Copenhagen, the chief city of Denmark,

Hands on the eaftern (hore of the large and fertile ifland of Zeclarul,

about 2 J Britifli miles to the fouth of the noted found, where the vefllls

that vilit the Baltic pay a fmall tribute to Denmark. It is the heft

built city ia the north; for, though Pctcrlburg prrfents more luperb

tdilices, yet Copenhagen is more uniform ; tlic houfes being rnoiHy of

brick, but a few of frecllgne from Germany K The ftreets are rather

narrow, but are well paved^ This city only became the nietropolis

lin 144^, being formerly an obfcure port, wliencc it ntaiiis the name

lof Kiobcnhaven, or the harbour of the merchants, and it has little

Icbim to antiquity. The royal palace, which was a ni.igninctiit pile,

Iwas confumcd by fire a few years ago ; and the lUy fiiffiTcJ diead-

Ifiillyfrom the fame caufc in 1728. It is regularly fortified, the cir-

jcumfercnce being between four and five miles, and the inhabitants aluuit

90,000. The tiarbour is fpacious and convenient, hanm; on the

mUx the ific of Anuk, peopled by the defccndants of u colony from

f Owe, |», ij, V, 187.

t lb. V. 126,

E»it

242

DENxMARK.

Eaft Friofland, to whom the ifland was granted by Chriftiern II. to fin<
ply his qiicoii with vegetables, cheofe and butter ; a dollination ftlil
retained. The magillrates arc appointed by the king ; but the-burtjefToj
have deputies to protect their rights.

Next in dignity, though not in population, is Bergen, the capital of
Norway, founded in the year 1070. It is feated. in the centre of »
valley, forming a femicircle round a fmall gulph of the fea. On tlic
land fide it is defended by mountains, and on the other by foveral fortili.
cations. All the churches and many of the houfes are of Hone. Tiic
caille and cathedral are remarkable edifices. The chief trade is in fifij
hides, timber, &c. ; and Bergen was formerly connedted with the Han'
featic towns. It retained the right of ftriking money till 157 j. 'fi,;,,
city, being chiefly conllrufted of wood, has been expofcd to repeated
conflagrations. The population is computed at 19,000*.

The third city of Denmark, and indeed the fecond in population, ij
Altona on the Elbe, within a gun-lhot of Hamburgh, originally a vil.
lage of the parifli of Ottenfen ; but in 1640 it became fubjett to Din.
mark, and was conlHtuted a city in 1664. In 1713 it was almoft ep.
tirely reduced to aflieS by the Swedes ; but its commerce was after.
wards fo much foftcred by the Danifli fm-ereigns, as a diminutive
rival of Hamburgh, that it is computed to contain 25,000 inluibi.
tantsf ,

Chrilliana, in the fouth of Norway, mud alfo be named among the
chief towns, though it only contain 10,000 fouls. It Hands in tlie
niidll of a fertile country ; and is by fome efleemed the capital tf
Norway, bccaufe it contains the chief court of jiifticc, and is unqupftion.
ably the moll beautiful town in that kingdom. It was founded bv
Chriltiern IV. in 1624, aftef Opflo was ci^nfumed by accidental iin',
Chrilliana being fituattd in tlie niidil of iron and coppir mines, anil
not fur from the celebrated filvcr mines of Kongfberg> tlie export of
metals is confidcrable ; but tar and deals form the chief articles.
The deals are rnoltly fcnt to England ; the red wood being pro.
duced from what is called tlic Scotch fir, and the white from the
fpruce fir 4.

Dronthtim, about 270 Britifli miles to the N. of Bergen, was
anciently called Nidari)s. The inhabitants are only computed at 8oco;
but as this is the moll northern city in Europje except Tornea, the po-
pulation cannot of conrie he great. Drontheim is fituated on the riwr
Nid, whcnct. it derived its name, and was founded in the year 997, being
the refidence of the ancient kings of Norway, and afterwards an arc!i.
bilhoprick, fuppriMlid at the reformation. Of the cathedral the choir
alone remains. There is fome commerce in wood, fifli, tallow, and cop
"per from the mines of NK-dul and Roras.

EuiKicrs.] The chief public edifices are in the cities. The cailli
and palace of C.'*mibcrg, and the two otlier royal villas in Zoilaud, di
<iot merit a particular dcfcriptioi., the buildings and gardens b™
generally in An antifjuated tafle. The roads in Denmark and Norwa
were, till lately, much negledled, and formed a Unking cuntrjill wit
lliofe of Sweden.

Inland navigation] The chief inland navigation of Denmarl
It the canal of Kiel, fo called from a conliderable town in tlie north ol
Jlolllein. 'I'his canal k> intended to unite the Balt'C with the rivci
tydar, which .luws into the German fea. The extent of this imporlai

•• JJafclhiij, i. liCI. '

t 11. ii. 09,

J Bid'tliiiiJ. C'oxp.

cani

DENMARK.

243

canal is about 20 Britifli miles and a half; the breadth 100 feet at top,
and ?4 '1' bottom; the leall depth is about 10 feet, (o as to admit
veifcls of about 120 tons*. It was begun in July 1777, and was

finilhedin 1785-
Manufactures a>d commerce.] The manufaftures of the

Danifl* dominions are few and unimportant. Several have been re-
jjntly encouraged by the crown, which has paid more attention to com-
jierce and agriculture than to the arts and fcienccs. The chief exports
(f Denmark con nil of native produ6ls. Jutland, with the ides Slcfwic
jiid Holrtein, generally export corn to a conliderable amount ; and
t!ie horfes and cattle of the latter province funiifli a f up ply to Hol-
land The chief produfts of Norway are wood, hides, (chiefly thofe
of the go»t,) vAth filver, copper, and iron ; while Iceland exports
dried fi(li» falcons, and hawks, and eiderdown. The commerce of this
jiinijdoin has been greatly improved fince the acquifition of Altona, and
the opening of the Kiel navigation.. The colonies in the Eall and Well
Indies, alfo, fupply fome refources.

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL GEOGKAMiy.

CliMlf onii St'ofons. — Face of the Country. — S(jU an J ylgnailturc.-^ Rivers.
—Lidrt . ~ Mountains. — Fonjls. — Botuny. — Zoology. — Mimralo^<. —
Mineral IVuters. — Natural Curio/Ilies.

. T T'^HE kingdom of Denmark Proper, con-

CUMATI: AND seasons] I ,-,. ^ c .\ f • . r . C .1

'^"^ -■ X hllmg ot thole ancient Icats of the

Rmilh monarchy, the ifles of Zetland, Funen, Laland, and EallU-r,
I with otlurs of inferior fize ; and the t-xtenlive Cherloiicie or peninfula,
khirh contains Jutland, Slefwic, and HoHteiii, maybe coiilidertd as
poffciruig a humid and rather temperate climate. Vet the winter is
cccafioiially of extreme ft-verity, and the lea is impeded with ice. Nor-
Uav, chiefly extending along the well fide of the Scandinavian Alps,
espoft'd to tlie vapours from the Athmtic, ia not fo cold a region us
might be conceived. Finmark indeed feels the utmoil rigour ot" win-
ter; wliile in Iceland, on tlir contrary, that fealon is uiiexpidtedly
noJeiate, fo as generally to permit the natives to cut turf even ill
January.

r'ACK OF THE COUNTRY.] Thc afpedl of fuch widc and detached
IrfiriDns may be conceived to be greatly divcrlitied. The ifle of Zceland,
Iwliich is about 200 G. miles in circumference, exclullve of the windings
land indentations of the coall, is a fertile and pleafiint ciuntry, with
Ifieldfi feparated hy mud walls, cottages cither of brick or white-walhed,
Iwouda of beech atid oak, vales, and gentle hilb. The fame delcriptiuii
luill apply to Funen, which is about 140 (». miKs in cireumference, ar.d
Ivhich, Mr. Marlhall fays, is as well cultivated as moll of the counties in
lEriLjland. Holllein and Slefwic are alfo level countries ; . nd tlioueh
iJitluiul pfcfcnt many upland moors, ami f»)rell8 of great extent, elpecially
Ttiiw.iids Aalborg, or in thc centre of the northern part, yet there are
pcrtilw pailurcs ; and the country, being marfhy and iiwt Uiuunt«iQons»

• Coxp, V. JOl.

might

$44

DENMARK.

might be greatly improved. Norway is on the contrary perhaps the molt
mountainous country in Europe ; but in the fouth there are trafts f
great fertility, and, though often rocky, the foil i»vrich. « The face of
the country is prettily fprinkled with numerous' lakes and rivulets and
thickly dotted with cottages, rudely though not unpleafantly fit'uated
on rocky eminences, in the midft of the luxuriant foreft*." The Nor
wegian Alps are frequently covcrod with dark forefts of pines and fir •
and the perpetual fnow of the peaks is not accompanied with the glaciers'
and other terrors of the Alps. '

Soil and aghiculture.] In Holftein, and the fouth of Jutland
the agriculture may be compared with that of England ; the fields are
divided by hedges and ditches in excellent T)rder, and fown with corn
and turnips. Farther to the north, cultivation is lefs perfedt. In Nor.
way the portion of arable ground is fcanty, and far from fufficient to
fupply the confu'nption. That mountainous country is however abun.
dant in paihire and cattle ; which, as in Swifferland, are driven to the
heights in fummer ; and a patriotic fociety has fo much encouraged
agriculture, that within thefe fifty years eftates have rifen near one third
in value f . In the extenfive ifland of Iceland there is not much room
for agriculture ; which has however greatly dechncd fince the period
of the republic, when trcatifes were written on this interefting fub.
jed.

Rivers.] In the kingdom of Denmark Proper, the rivulets are niu
merous ; but fcarcely a river of any note except the Eydar, the ancient
boundary between Denmark and Germany. Towards the north of Jut.
land an cxtenlive crock of the^fea, called Lymfiord, penetrates from the
Cattegat to within two or three miles of the German fea, navigable, fulli
cf fifli and containing many illands;}:. There are feverai other creeks,
which are by the Danes (lyled Fiords, or Firths, but fcarcely another
river worth mentioning.

In Norway, as in Sweden, the largcft rivers are called Elven or Eiben.l
Thofe that rife in the Alpine chain, and run towards the weft, haveii
eonfequence but a (hort courfe ; and the chief ports, as in the wed oi
Scotland, are fupplied by creeks or inlets of the fea, with a great dept
of water. The chief river of Norway is the Glom or Glomen, which ii
not navigable, but full of cataracts and fhoals ; y«t about 50,000 trn
are annually floated upon it to Frederickftadt. Before it receives thi
Worm from the lake Miofs, it is as broad as the Thames at Putney
and its rugged courfe mull render it a tremendous torrent. It fprin
from the lake of Orefimd on the north of the Fd;mund, and runs near!
ibuth about 300 Britilh miles.

Next may be named the Dramme, which flows into the weft fide oft
bay of Chrilliana, having received the Ueina. and other conlidmbi
ttreams. Lefs remarkable rivers in the fouth of Norway are the Louvei
the Torrifdals which runs by Chriilian Saad, and others flowing froi
numerous lakeR. In Finmark the molt confiderable river is the Tan.
which it followed by the Alten ; both riling in the mountains to tbenui
of Swedilh Lapland, and flowing into the Ar^lic ocean.

Lake^i.J The lakes in the Danifli dominions are numerous, themol
extenfive being in the fouth of Norway. The lake of Miofs is about 6
Britilh miles in length, but the breadtn is in generel little conitderabli
except towar4s the centre, where it ii from 1 2 to 18 miles : it cuntaii
«n iHand about ten miles in circumference, fertile in corn, pullurc, ai

*i;wM|V. m. fib, II*

f BuCvJiing* i. 191*

WOO

DENMARK.

«oil*' Next is the lake of Rands or Rands-.Sion, which is near fifty
miles in length, but not more than two in Licadth. The lake of Tyri is
a beautiful piece of water, about fifteen miles in length and breadth, di«
terfificd with many bays and creeks : the environs are delightful, Confifting
of corn fields, fertile meadows, and hanging forefts, backed by lofty
mountains towering above each other f . Farther to the north is the large
like of Focmund, about 35 Britifh miles in length by 8 at its greateft
lireadth : this lake is celebrated by Bergman as being furrounded by
jioimtains of great height.
Mountains.] In the kingdom of Denmark Proper there are no
leights which can afpire to the name of mountains : but Norway is al-
ijoll wholly an Alpine country. The grand chain, which divides, that
{kingdom from Sweden, is known by diftindi appellations as it paies
jiinjugh different provinces.
In a general point of view, the fouthern part of the Scandinavian
(hain, running nearly N. and S., and terminating at the province of
Romfdal, is calfed Langfiall, or the Long Mountains. Hence the
part called Dofhafiall extends towards the eait, ending above the lake
of Aurfund or Orefund ; where it again proceeds almoll due north.
Here alfo a confiderable branch proceeds by S wucku, &c. towards Sweden.
The third part of the range, from the north of Orefund and the vicinity
oftlie copper mines of Rort 3, is called the chain of Kolen, extending
tietween Norway and Swedifh Lapland, and afterwards bending, in the
I form of a horfe-flioe, on the fouth of Finmark |.

The height of thefe mountains was as ufual extremely exaggerated,

I and compared with the Swifs Alps, till more exadnefs was introduced

into orology. Mr. Pennant § affords the moft recent information on the

lubieft. " Mr. Afcanius, profelTor of mineralogy at Drontheim, alTures

Et that, from fome late furveys, the higheil in the diocefe are not more

tian 00 fathoms above tlie furface of the fea ; that the mountains fall

I to the wcllern fide from the diilance of eight or ten Norwegian miles || ;

but to the eaftern from that of forty. The highclt is Davrefiasl in Dron-

tlieim, and Tille in Bergen. They rifeflowly and do not ftrike the eye

like Romfdal-horn and Hornalen, which foar majellically from the fea.

ProfelTor Ritzius of Lund acquaints me that Kinnekulle, in WeftrO"

ICothia, is only 815 Englifh feet above the lake Wenern, or 931 above

Itlie fea. He adds that the following have been only meafured to their

hafes, or to the next adjacent waters : Arefkutan, a folitarv mountain of

Ijimtland, about four or five Swedifh miles from the highefi Alps which

Ifcparate Norway and Sweden, is faid tm be 6162 Englifh feet above the

lucareft rivers ; Swuckulloet within the borders of Norway, 4658 above

k Fuemund, and that lake is thought to be 2 ur 3000 above the f.-a ;

Itinally Sylfi^cllen, on the borders of Jxmtland, is 31J2 feet perpen-

mlar from the height to the bafe. By fome late experiments the

M\A\ mountainH of Sweden, between lat. 63 and 64 ' have been found

) be 6652 feet above the furface of the Baltic"** } but no trees wiU

brow uii them at httle more than half that height."

'Uw conilruftion of the Norwegian mountams has been little explored.

nrisit iiiideritood whether the cliief lieights be calcareous like thofe of

lie Pyrenees, or granitic, as is rather to be conceived. Some confiderabK*

oimtains conf^'l of fandllone. Norway abounds in beautiful marbles of

priouii kinds, whence it appears that a conllderablc part is calcareous.

•('»!', ^<». flbiJ. i). t Hufililni,' l.H?"- i Arflir Zoology, i.niii.

I p U 1 H,o(io fctt ewli. *• <• Mr. TorLlU-u in AiA. Urg. Ai. Holm."

R 3 Lai-i*

34^

DENMARK.

Lapis ollaris is found in great quantities, and with it were built the ca
thedral of Drontheim and other edifices *. This i« generally found
the vicinity of granite.

Forests.] There are fome woods in the Daniih ifles, and forefts in
Jutland. The Norwegian mountains arc generally clothed with pines and
firs ; and almoft the whole country may be regarded as a forclt, which
fupplies Europe with mails and other large timber.

Botany.] The botany of Denmark Proper does not materially differ
from that ot the other northern provinces of the German empire, which
has already been (lightly flcctched in the account of Pruflia, and will be
hereafter noticed more minutely when defcribing the other ftatee of the
Germanic body. The botany of Norway will be incorporated with that
of ^e reft of Scandinavia, under the article Sweden.

Zoology.] The DcUiifli dominions being of fuch great extent, wA
^mriety of climate and afpeft, there is a great divcrfity in the animal pro.
duftions. The horfes of Norway and Iceland arc as remarkable for dimi.
nutive fize, as thofe of Holftein are for the contrary quality. Among the
more peculiar animals may be firft named the rein-deer, common in Fin.
mark and throughout Lapland. This animal refembles a ftag, but is
ftronger ; and the deep divifion of his hoofs is adapted to tread on the
fnow, being fuited by Providence to a cold climate, as the camtl is to the
hot defcrt. The antlers of the rein-deer are longer and more branched
than thofe of the Hag, and tliey alfo decorate the brows of the female.
Thefe animals arc ftill numerous in a wild ftate, though the Laplanders
have reclaimed great numbers, which fupply the place of horfes ai;d
cattle. The elk is a more fouthcrn animal, and fometimes appears in
Norway, which is infefted by the bear, the wolf, and the. lynx. The
lemming, or Norwegian moufe, proceeds from the ridge of Kolen, and
fomctimes fpreads defolation, like the locuft. Thefe animals appear in
va(l numbers, proceeding from the mountains towards the fea, and du.
vouring every produdl of the foil : it would fecm that after coniumir.jr
every thing eatable in their courfc, they at laft devour each otiicr. This
fingiilar creature is of a reddi/h colour, and about five inches in length.
Norway alfo boails of eagles, and its falcons are reckoned the boldeft
and moft fpiritcd of any in Europe. The falmon fupplies a confidcrable
part of the Laplander's food ; and vaft numbers are tranfported on rein.
deer from the Ihores of the Tana. " Hares arc alfo common in that remote
region, as well as the bear, lynx, and fox ; nor arc the gliltton and the
beaver unknown. About Roras in Norway the latter animal is fomctimcs
found white.

MiNKKALOOY.] The mineralogy of the Danifti dominions is chiefly
reftricled to Norway, for in .lutlaiiJ and the ifles no important difcoveriis
have arifen. About the year J64) fomc gold ore was found near Arini!;il,
of which ducats were ftruck. But in gold Norway yields greatly totlicl
Swedifli mines of Aldenfors, and only claims the fuperiority in ll!vi;r;

the mines of Konglberg, about 40 BritiHi milrs to the S \V. of C!ir;fJ
tiann, having been long reputed the riclicll in Europe ; and one n:;i!s
native filver in the royal cabinet weighs 409 marks, being worth r
rix-dollars, or 600I f . The rock confifts of vertical banks of r. .k.
fchiilus, with garnets, Umeftone, and quart/. The veins of metal aril
from half an inch to more than two feet in thicknefs, fometimes accumJ
panicd with large-grained limc-ftone, but more often with fpar. TlnlJ
juincs were difcovercd in 1623 bv two pcafants. They are worked by 1

* Pontopfuian, i. 166, ii. 876. f Coxc, v. 43.

(bftJ

DENMARK.

(haftSj Wi\A ufed to yield about 70,000!. annually, when 4C00 men were
employed ; but recently 2400 have removed to the cobalt mines at FofTum,
■-o miles to the north, and it is fuppofed that the praduce barely defrays
the expence. Yet they fupply the mint with currency, the largeft coin
being of eight Danifh-flcillings, or four-pence fterhng ; and it is efteeme;d
aptculiarity of this mine, that it may be little produftive during a year
or two, when fuddenly a rich vein is difcovered which amply repays the
Iqjs of labour *.

Norway alfo poflefTea other filver mines at larllberg in the fame
region, about 30 miles to the N.E.j difcovered in 1726, but of fmall
account.

The important copper mines o^ Roras, about 68 Britifh miles S.E.
ofDrouthcim', were difcovered in 16^4. They are in the fouthern flope
of the chain of DofFra, in a rock of what the Germans call hornfchiefer.
fhe veins are from lix inches to fix ells in thicknefs ; and the ore of a
pale yellow. In general the mines of Roras are very produftive, and a
lource of coniiderable revenue. ' Other copper mines are at Quickne
and Selboe, about fifty miles to the eaft of Drontheim, and at other
places.

The mines of cobalt at FofTum, a recent difcovery, mull not be
pafTed in filence. This metal yields fmalt, or powder blue, ufed in
painting pottery and porcelain, and in colouring (larch ; and the mine
is fuppofed to produce a clear annual revenue to the crown of about
ic.oool. Near it is a rich vein of quartz containing large mafles of

But the iron mines of Norway are cftcemed the'moft profitable. They
are chiefly fituated not far from Arindal, in the fouthern province of
Chrilliandfand ; and near Skcen, between Arindal and Kosglherg ^.
Lead appears in the vicinity of Kongfberg ; and there are alum works
near Chriftiana. In Iceland are found many volcanic produftions, par-
ticularly black obfidian. The ifles of Faroe befides bafaltic columns of
all kipds and fizes, produce agate, jaf per, and' beautiful zeolites. The
magnet is alfo found in Norway : with curie is garnets, efpecially the
green, which are little known in other regions.

Mki)IC.\l waters.] In medical waters the Danifh dominions are
very deficient : and thofe difcovered in 1768 at Oerllen in the Sondmocr
appear to be little frequented.

Natlh.il { luiositiks.] While the fouthern parts of the Danifh do-
minions prcfent few natural curiolitifs, the northern provinces afford
iiiiiuy fingular features. Tlie Molkollrom, or Midllrom, is a remarkable
wliiilpooTofT the fliore of Norland, vvhicli will involve boats, and'even
Hiips : nay the bellowing Ih iiggles of the w hale have not always redeemed
him from the danger ; the bottom ib full of craggy fpires, and the noife
truly tremendous. On the fouth of the Faroe ifles there is another
dreadful whirlpool. The volcanoes of Iceland may alfo beclafTed among
the graiulclt features of nature. Among thefe. Mount Hekla is the moik
uiniirkahle, being lituated in the fouthern part of the ifland, about
20 Urltilh miles from the fea, above which it rifcs to the height of about
5000 fffi't. The fummit is covered with Inow, except fome fpots where
the heat predominates. The craters are numerous, but the eruptions rare ;
there liaving only been ten from the year 1 104 to 1693, aftir which it
remained quiet till 1765, when it emitted llames and lava. Theboihng

" Pnntn . i. I8),8tc. Tokp, ut fupra. fCoxr, v. 49.

I .'\i I inling to Hulch'mg, i. -HI. ;>rhr«; i* Annul tiear Waidl.us, in Finmavk, of i bcauti*
fu! lk)-lilui,j prubai>l} like that ut' Elba, uud t\\c %ii of a rich iruii laiite,

R 4 fprings

94S DENMARK.

fprings of Iceland prefent a fingular phenomenon ; that of Geyftr
the north of Skallholdt is the molt remarkable, rifing from an aperture *
feet in diameter, and fpringing at intervals to the height of c© or ev ^
90 feet *. AboHt 20 miles to the north of Bergen, the rocks abound
with lingular petrifaAions. The mountains are fometimes fpljt and en
gulphed by fubterranean waters, of which Pontoppidan relates fome
mftances, more to be credited, as a fimilar event recently happened in the
fouth of France. The farm of Borre, in the province of Chrilliaua, was
in 1703 fwallowed up with all its buildings, and there now remains gnly a
chafm full of ruins and fandf . *

DANISH ISLANDS.

The prime feat of the Danilh monarchy having ever been in the iflcs of
•'Zeeland, Funen, Laland, Falfter and the others of that group, they
have been confidered in the general defeription of the monarchy. In the
ead, the fartheft ifle belonging to Denmark is that of Bornholm, a fniall
but fertile fpot conquered by the Swedes in 1 64?, and furrendered to
them by the treaty of Roflcild, 1658 ; but the inhabitants revoked the
fame year, and reftored their ifle to the Danifh domination, under which
it has fince continued.

- Off the weft coaft of Jutland are the ifles of Nordftrand, Fora, »Syh
Rom, Fanoe and others, which with Hclgeland are known to the
R.omans ; and the writers of that nation appear often to <have con.
founded them with fome of the Orkneys, and even with the iflands in
the Baltic. •

The Norwegian coaft prefents one continued feries of fmall and urim.
portant iflands, mpft of them indeed uninhabited. Among a few worthy
of mention may be named Karm, Bommel, Sartar, Hittercn, and others
at the entrance of the gulph of Drontheim : the Vikten or Viktor iflands
are followed by thofe of LofFoden, the moft numerous and cxtenfive, and
noted for the whirlpool of Malftrom. Among the dreary ifles on the La.
ponic Ihore may be named Soroe and Mageroe, that of Wardhus, where
there is a garrifon in the ArAic ocean : and the ifle or peninfula of Fiikc
roe, part of which belongs to Ruflian Lapland.

The Norwegian ifles are in general mountainous or craggy, like the
correfponding coaft, with precipitous rocks and a fea from 100 to joo
fathoms deep wafliing their bafes. Between them are numerous narrow
creeks, ovcrfbadowed by vaft heights hke thofe of the fliore, and guardid
as it were by innumerable fmafler ifles, and defert rocks, haunted by
fcreaming fea-fowl.

For many years the Norwegians held the ifles of Orkney and Shetland,
Vfhich laft was ftyled by them the Land of Hialt, from an adventurer fo
called, whence the corrupt names of Zetland, Yetland, and Shetland.
The Faroe ifles remain an appanage of the Danifli crown : they are fe.
venteen in number, and not unfertile, producing fome barley, and abun-
dant pafturage for Iheep. Small junipers, ftunted willows, and birche;:,
alone bear a diminutive image of trees. They were difcovered prior to
Iceland, in the ninth century j and export feathers, eiderdown, caps,
(lockings, falted mutton, and tallow. The inhabitants do not exceed
50CXJ X' They abound with Angular ranges of large bafaltic columns.

• VtnTroi!, 060. f Bufchin^, i. 360.

X See Laodt's curious tccouat (^ thefc lOeii London, ibio, 8vu,

The

■f

DENMARK.

249

The hrgc and celebrated ifland of Tceland may be regarded as 260
Britifli miles in length from the moft weftern cape to the moll eaftem, and
about 200 in breadth from N. to S., but the inhabitants do not exceed
(oooo. The government was an ariftocratic republic for about 387
years, till in 1261 it fubmitted to Norway. The maps of this country
are far from being perfeft ; and the like complaint might juillybe extended
totheDanilh dominions in general ; but as far as can be judged, the chief
range of mountains runs like the Carpathian, from the S. E. to the
^,Vf., with fome branches diverging N. E. This ifland forming fo ex-
tciifive a portion of the Danifh dominions, feveral circumftances concern-
jug it have been given in the general narration. The higlieft mountains
clothed with perpetual fnovv are llyled Yokuls ; and of thefn; Snasfial,
hanging over the fea in the 8. W. part of ^he ifland, is cllcemed the
iioheft, being computed at 6S60 feet *. The mountains are faid to be
■ clijefly fand-llone, pudding-ltone, with pctrofilex, lleatite, and argillaceous
fcliilliis. The chief rivers of Iceland arc in tlie eaft ; the 8kaltanda, the
Oxarfird, and the Brua, all flowing from the S. to the N. Some are
»hite with lime, others ftncll of fulphur. The calcareous fpar of Iceland
is celebrated for it double refraction fince the days of Newton. Calce-
doiiy, zeolite, lava, pumice, and malachite, or copper ftalactites, are
among the mineral produftions. In the middle of the fourteenth ce::tary
thisille was greatly depopulated by a peftilence called the Black Death.
\ volcanic ifland recently aroto to the fouth of Iceland, but afterwards
(lifappeared. From Iceland a colony pafled to Greenland, a ftiort courfe
of about 200 miles ; but the Danifli colony in Greenland has been long
fxpjored in vain, the eallern coaft on which it was fettled being fince
j)kckcd up by the ice.

SWEDEN.
CHAPTER I.

HISTORICAL GEOGKAPHY.

l!mts>— Extent.— -Boundaries. — Original Population.'— Progrejfve Geogra-
phy. — Hijlorlcal Epochs and yJntlquitles. „

Names.

, O WEDEN, in the native language Suitheod, and mofe
l.iiS.j j^ modernly Sweircke, appears to be a very ancient appel<
lation, and is faid by the northern antiquaries, to imply a country whofe
woods had been burnt or deftroycd. Tlie name feems as ancient as the
I time of Tacitus f , who, after defcriliing the Suiones who lived in iflands
of the ocean, pafles to the Sitones, and afterwards to the nations at the
I farther end of the Baltic. The Sitones muft have dwelled in the fouthern
provinces of Sweden ; and the name either have been derived from Sic-
tuna, the old name of the chief town, as appears from Adam of Bremen,
or from Suitheod the native term, foftcncd as ufual by the Roman enun-
ciation.

* rennut, A. Z, Ixiti,

t GyiMa. C. 44, 4).

Extent.]

250

SWEDEN.

EXTEyT.] The kingdom of Sweden is of very confidcrable extent
Ijcing from the moll fouthern promontory of Scone to the northern ex!
tremity of Swcdini Lapland, not lefs than 1150 Britifli miles in length'
and in breadth, from the Norwegian Alps to the limits of Ruflia, about
600. The contents in fquare miles have been computed at 208,912.
and the inhabit.ints being fomc years ago fuppofed 2,977,345, there will
be 14 to the fquare mUe, including Swedilh Pomerania, computed at
1440 fquare miles, and 103,345 inhabitants.

Modern divisions.] The provinces of the Swcdifli monarchy may
Jje arranged ii; llie following manner :

5-
6

7-
8.

]

}> or Sweden Proper.

or Weft Norland,

Uphtr.d

Sudcrmanland

Nerike

Weftmanland

Dalarne, orDalecarlia

Weli Gothland.

Eaft Gothland.

South Gothland.

Jemtland .
10. Angermanland
U. Medelpad

12. Halliiigland

13. Gallrickland

14. Herjeadalen

15. Weil Bothnia.

16. Afele Lappmark

17. Umca Lappmark

18. Pitea Lappmark
IQ. Jjulea Lappmark
ao. Tornca Lappmark

2 1 . Kcmi Lappmark

22. IHeaborg

23. \yafa

24. Kuopio Karelen, or

Carclia

25. Tavaftland and Nyland

26. Abo and Bjorneborg

27. Kymmcngard
2S. Swcdilli Pomerania, in L"'^ppor Saxony.

OiiiCiiNAL j'OviJLATroN.] As thcr? is no evidence that the Celts ever
pcnrtrated to Scandinavia, the firft population appears to have coiifilled
of Firis, who, perhaps, fovt^n or eight centuries before the Chriftian xra,
were fupphntcd by tlie Goths, mythologically reprefonted as having been
condu(^tcd by Odin, the god of war. No foreign conquell having finte
extended hither, the population continues purely Gothic in lite fouthern
parts ; while in the north there are remains of the Fins ; and above tliem
the Laplanders, a native diminutive race refembling the Sanioides of the
north of Aiia ; and the Efquimaux and Greenlanders, Ardtic races of
A u'erica.

Pko(.uks.sive Gi;o«i<.VriiY.] The fouthern parts alone of Scandinavia
being known to the anciiiits, its progrelfive geography is rather obfcure.
Tlic only people there iituated known to Tacitus, were the Sitones.
Ptolemy mentions five or fix tribes, among which are the Gutx of Gotli»
land, as inhabiting the portion of Scandmavia known in his time. His
four Scandinavia;! ifunds are evidently thofe of Zeeland, Funen, Laland,

and I

or Swcdifh Lapland,

or Eaft Bothnia.

or Finland.

SWEDEN.

251

jnJ Falfter. After this period there is littk progrcfs in Scandinavian
ffcoeraphy till the time of Joniaudes, in the fixth century, who dofcribes
^caiiziiij or Scandinavia, at fonie length, and mentions various nations by
ffhom it was inhabited. The next notices are due to tlie voyage of
Ohter, recited by our great Alfred ; and the more certain and general
knott'lwlge begins to dawn with Adam of Bremen, and the Icelandic
jiiilorians.

Historical epoctis.] The following feem to condltute the chief
iiiftorical epochs of Sweden :

1, Tlie early population by the Fins and Laplanders.

2. The conquell by the Goths.

1, What little knowledge the ancients pofiefled concerning the fouthof
Scandinavia.

1. The fabulous and traditional hiftory, which begins about the year
of Clirift 520, and includes the conqiieil of Sweden by Ivar Vidfatme
iiin? D.'iiniark, about A. D. 760. Kence there is an obfcure period
till the reign of Biorn I., A.D. 829, commemorated, with his immediate
fucceffors, by Adam of Bremen.

f. The conquell of Denmark by Olnf IT., about the year qco.

6. The partial converfion of Sweden to Cliriftianity in the reign of
Olaf III., A. D. 1000 ; but more than half a century elapfcd before
naTaiiifm can be confidered as Unally abandoned, in the reign of Ingi the
pious, A. D. 1066.

7. The acceflion of the Folkungian branch, about the middle of the
thirteenth century.

8. The Swedes, difcontented with their king Albert of Mecklenburg,
in 1388, ele£t as theii; foveruign Margaret heirefs of Denmark and Nor-
\v,iv. Thus ended the Folkungian race : and by the celebrated treaty
of Colmar, A. D. 1397, the three kingdoms of the north wei-e fuppofed
tn be united for ever. But after the death of Margaret in 141 2, the
Swedes began to ttruggle for tlieir liberty ; and in 1449 Ivarl or
Charles VIII. \va8 elected king of Sweden.

9. Tlie llruggles between Dt'nmark and Sweden, till the cruel
and tyrannic reign of Chriftiern II., king of Denmark, Norway, and
Sweden.

10. Tyrants are the fathers of freedom, Guftaf Wafc, whom we ftyle
Guitavus Vafa, delivers his country from the Danifli yoke, after a con-
teit which forms one of the moit intcreiling portions of modern hiftory.
The revolt may be confidered as having commenced when Giiilaf ap-
peared at Mora in Dalecarlia, A. D. 1520, and completed three years
afterwards when he entered Stockholm in triumph. DifTatisfied with
the power of the clergy which luid repeatedly fubjugated the kingdom
to Denmark, this great prince, 1^27, introduced the reformed religion,
and died in liis feventieth year, September i j6o, after a glorioiw reign of
thirty.feven years.

11. The reign of Gufl;if Adolph, or Gullavus Adelphus, A.D.
j6 1 1 — 1631. Auftria, Spain, and the other Catholic kingdoms having
confpircd to extirpate the Protellant religion in Germany, this king was
invited to aflill the reformed, and carried his vidorious arms to the Rhine
and the Danube.

1 2. The reign of Charles XI. 1 669—1697, when the arts andfcienccs
bcgv to flourifh and the power of the kingdom was carried to its utmolt
height. This reign of folid beneficence was foliowed by the calamitous
fway of that madman Charles XII.

jj. After thq weak reign of Charles XII.i Sweden funk into political

humUiation ;

252

SWEDEN.

humiliation ; and is now regarded as little better than a province of Ruflla
to which difgrace the the Swedifji arjftocracy as naturally tends as that of
Poland.

Antiquities.! The ancient monuments of Sweden confift chiefly of
judicial circles, and other ercftions of unhewn Hone, followed by the
monuments infcribed with Runic charadlers, fome of which are as recent
as the fifteenth century, and none of them can fafely be dated more
anciently than the eleventh. Not far from Upfal is the moraiten, or
ilone on which the king ufed to be enthroned, as the old Scottifh monarchj
w.M-e at Scone. The ancient tcmpKs, called Skior, or Skur, were on
wood, and have confetjtiently pcriOu'd. ScHne of the old calUes,erefte(i
fince the ufe of Hone, are remarkable* for tlieir refemblance to what are
called Pidiih cadles in Scotland.

CHAPTER 11.

I'OLITICAL CEOOHArilY.

Religion. — Ecclefiajllc Geography.
— Colonies. — Army. — Navy.
Relations. ^

■ Government. — Lanvs. — Population.

■ Revenue. — Political Importance and

R.UOI0N. Ecc.Es,AsT.coEOo„Ar„v.]T"df„ ft"L«ho™:
and this kingdom has retained an archbiflioprick with thirteen pre.
lacies, the parilhcs amount to 2537. The priefts are computed
at 1378 ; wilh 134 vicars, and 192 prepofiti, or infpcftors*. Some of
the parilhcs are very extenfive, as that of Eailern Bothnia, which is about
150 miles in length by 48 in breadth ; and another parilh in Lapland is
ftill larger.

Government.] The revolution of 1772 pretended to reftore the
government to the form ellablifhed by Charles XL, and which had lapfed
into afaftious mixture of ariftocracy, but by the adl of union, 1789, the
conftitution became an abfolute monarchy ; the monarch having arrogated
not only the rights of peace and war, and the adminillration of jullice,
but the impofition of taxes, without the confent of the diet, which cannot
deliberate on any fubjedl till it be propofed by the fovereign. The
diet conlirts of nobles, and landed gentlemen, clergy, burgelTes, or de-
puties of towns, and thofe of the peafantry. Each of the four ftates has
a fpealacr ; the archbilhop of Upfal being always the fpeaker of the
clergy, while the king Hominates the others. As the monarch is net
opulent, it is evident that fo large and refpeftable a body might conlli-
tute a formidable barrier ; but the evils of fadlion have been fo great
and impendent, and the Ruflian powtr and influence fo dellructive to
the very rxillencc of the ftate, that the deputies leem juftly to regard
the dictatorial power of the monarch as neceffary for their own
prefervation.

Poi'irLATioN.] When the great extent of the Swedifti territory is con-
fidored, the population will appear comparatively fraall ; a circum^^nt*
ariling in part from the mountainous nature of the country, and in part

* OlivarludLc Nord Liueraac, No. la.

from

SWEDEN.

^5J

from the fevcre climate of the northern diftrifts ; Swedilh Lapland being
fMppofed not to contain more than 7000 inhabitants. Yet atprefent the
.nniilation of the kingdom is thought to exceed 3,000,00c. The nobility
(o numerous as to be computed at about 2,500 families ; while the

are
pel

afants, the moil numerous clafs, amount to about 2,000,000.

Colonies.] Sweden only poffeffes one fmall colony, that in the iHand
of St. Bartholomew in the Well Indies, which was ceded to them by
(lie French in 1785 *.

Akmv.] The Swedifli army confifts of national troops and of foreign
infantry, the latter being computed at about 12,000. The total amount
of the army may be 48,000 : and the foldicrs are of diilinguifhed valour
jnd hardihood, and elated with the former fame of the Swedifti arms.

Navy.] So fatal were the naval operations of 1792, that the SwediHi
fleet which confifted of 30 fhips of the line, cannot now difplay above half
that number. In the Baltic, which is full of low coails and (hoals, gallies
of a flat conftruAion are found more ferviceable than (hips of war, and of
courfe great attention is paid to their equipment by Sweden as well as

RulTia. ■ ^

Revevue.] The revenue of Sweden is computed at about a million
and a half llcrling, which is equalled by the cxpences of the government.
The national debt cannot be much lefs than 10,000,000 Iterling.

This debt being chiefly incurred at Hamburgh, the country is over-
whflmed with the paper mpney of that city ; and the fcarcity of gold and
filver, and even of copper currency, is incredible. The ducat is the only
erold coin, worth about nine (hillings llerling ; while the filver crown may
be valued at four (hillings and fixpcnce. The fchelhng or fliilling is
worth little more than one penny fterling ; and the copper confills of
half and quarter fliillings, the ancient heavy pieces being now rarely
Tifible.

PoMTicAL iMPoiiTANCE AND RELATIONS.] The political importance
and rclationsof this kingdom are much diminiihed fmce the glorious reign
of Gullaf Adolph and the beneficent fway of Charles XI. Prior to the
late revolution in France, Sweden had remained a faithful ally of that king-
dom, which excited her againft any enemies in Germany, as Scotland was
formerly involved inr the wars between France and England. Of late this
alliance feems to be CacriHced to a more ufeful connection with Denmark
and Pruflia, which can alone guard the north of Europe from the pro-
grefs of the Ruffian preponderance. The difordcr of the finances unites
with many caufes of dilcontent, both among the arillocracy and among
the peafantry, to render the pcfwcr of Sweden little apparent in the
political balance of Europe, efpecially as now merged in the afcendancy
of France.

CHAPTER 'III.

CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.

Miners and Cujloms.-— Language. '^Literature' — Education.—^ Untverftt'tes.
Citits. — Towns . — -Edifices. — R oads. — Inland Navigation. — Manujac-
iures and Commerce.

\f. »....,„„ *«.. ,,»Tc^««o T TPI^E manners and cuftoms of the

MAVNERS and customs. J ■ r • 1 /r • o j r

-• X iupenor claiieB in Sweden are fo
much tinged with thofe of the Frenchi their allies, tliat no ftrik-

* Olivariui Le Nord Litterakc, No, I9t

£;+

SWEDEN.

ing peculiarity c.ia be obforved, and even tlic pcafantry have f
much vivacity and addrefs, that they have been ityled the French f
the north. The complexion, which, in the northern latitudes is rrcnc
rally fair, is here much diverfified, being in fome provinces extrniieK*
brown. The men are commonly robull and well formed, and tl->
vomen flender and elegant. The natives of the wellern province of
Dalecarha retain many ancient culloms, and have been diftingiiiflicd for
their courage and probity, firice the time that Guftaf Wafe iihied from
the mines of that country to break the yoke of Denmark. The Fin-
landers, on the call of the Bothnic gulph, are now little ditlinguifliablo
from the Swedes ; and any remarkable pecuharities of manners and cuf.
toms mud be fought in Svvedifli Lapland. Danifh Lapland howiarer
being more remote, lefs known, and more recently defcribed, an account
of this Angular people is given under the article of Denmark.

Language.] The language of Sweden is a dialeft of the Gothic
being a filler of the Danifh, Norwegian, and Icelandic. In the two
grand divilions of the Gothic, confiding of the German and Scar-lina-
vian dialefts, the latter is diftinguifhed by greater brevity and force of
expreflion. In the fouth of Sweden, which contains the chief mafs of
population, fome German and French words have been adopted ; while
the Dalecarlian on the N.W. is eiteemed a peculiar dialeft, perhaps only
becaufe it contains more of the ancient terms and i«'.iom.

Literature.] In the antiquity of literature, Sweden cannot pre-
tend to vie with Denmark, Norway, or Iceland ; the motl early native
chronicle, or perhaps literary compofition, being not more ancient than
the fourteenth century. In return, while Hie Danes fccm occupied with
internal policy, and public regulatisn, the Swedes have, in modern times,
borne tiic palm of genius in many departments of literature and
philofophy.

But Swedifh literature can hardly be faid to have dawned till tlic
middle of the feventcenth century, when the Queen ChriiHna, linding
the country imnierfed in ignorance, invited Grotius, Defcartes, ainl
other celebrated men, who, though they did not refide long in the kin^r.
dom, yet fowcd the feed of letters, which gradually began to profper in
the wife and beneficent reign of Charles XI. In the fucceeding or lall
century the name of Liniixus alone might dilHngiiifh the national liti ra-
ture ; and it is joined in natural hiJlory with thofe of Tilas, Wallcrius,
Quilt, Cronftedt, Bt*rgman, and others. In hiltory, Dalin and Lager-
bring have diftinguifhed themfelves by a precifion and force, which tlio
Danes feem to facritice to antiquarian difcufllons. Sweden alfo boaihuf
native poets and orators ; and the progrefs of the fcicnces is fupported
by the inftitution of numerous academics.

Education.] The manner of education has, as ufual, been neglcftod
by travellers and geographers, though perhaps one of the moll important
branches in the whole circle of human affairs. Compared with this pri.
mary foundation, an enumeration of univerlities is of fmall confcqiicncf,
That of Upfal is the moil ancient and renowned, containing about 50J I
ftudcnts ; while tiial of Lunden prcfcnts about 300. A third is at Abo
in Finland, frequented even by ftud.-nt3 from RuiTia ; and the wliuk
number is co-.^putcd as equalling that of Upial. There arc bclides twelve |
literary academies, moll of which puhlilh memoirs of tlieir tranfadlionj.
The library at IJ^ivl is richly furnidied with books remitted by GulH I
Adolph, when his vi6lorious arms penetrated deeply into Germany; I
Sweden having thus acc^uitcd by war thu lirll matcriuls uf licr litcrary
fiinc. ' . •

CiTItJ

SWEDEN.

2S$

Cities and towks.] Stockliolm, the capital of Sweden, (lands in a
(•i,irular lituation between a creek or inlet of the Baltic fea, and the
Like M*la»'' It occupies feven fmall rocky rflands, and the fcenery is
tiiilv lingular and romantic. *<■ A variety of contralled and enchanting
view's is formed by nuniberlefs rocks of granite, riling boldly from tht;
furfacc of the water, partly bare and craggy, partly dotted with houfes
or feathered with wood*." Somewhat refembling Venice, but with
rreater diverfity of profpeft, it requires no fortifications. ^ Moft of the
iioufes are of ftone or brick, covered with white ftucco ; except in the
i'ubiirbs, where feveral are of wood painted red, as ufual in the country
of Sweden. jQ'his city was bounded by the earl Birger, regent of the
kingdom, about t!ife middle of the thirteenth ccntury^^ and in tlie feven-
toenth century the royal relidence was transferred hither from Upfal.
Tlie entrance to the harbour is through a narrow llreight, of fomewhat
difficult accefs, efpecially as there are no tides : and for four months in
t!ie year is frozen. It is however deep, and capable of receiving a
great number of veflels. The royal palace ftands in a central and high
lituation : and there are a ca(Ue, an arfenal, and feveral academies.
The manufaftures are few, of glais, china, wopllen, filk, linen, &c.
by the latell accounts the papulation of Stockholm may be eftimated
at8o,oco.

Next in dignity is Upfal, the only archbiflioprick, and formerly ef-
tecmed the chief city of the kingdom ; but at prefent the inhabitants,
tscluiivc of the llud(.*nts, do not exceed 3000 f.

Gotheborg, or Gothenburg, in the province of Weft Gothland, is
elleemed the fecond city in Sweden, having a population of 20,000,
ibough it was only founded by Charles IX. or rather by Guftaf Adolph.
lielidcs confiderable commerce, the liorrmg fifhery contributes to enrich
Gothenburgh |. The llrcets are uniform ; and th6 circumference is
computed at near three miles.

Carllkrona was founded by Charles XI. in 1680. This city, and
Stralfund, in ^wcdifh Pomerania, are fuppulcd each to contain about
n,ooo inhabitants. Abo, in Finland, is computed at 8,750; in which
number it is nearly rivalled by Nordkioping. Fahlun is the next in po-
pulation ; and is followed by Wil'niar, another town poifcired by Sweden,
41:1 the northern fliore of Germany. None of the other towns contain
more than 4CX)0 inhabitants.

Ediiices.] Even including tlie royal palaces, Sweden cannot boall
of many fplendid edifices. The roads are in general far fuperior to thofe
J Denmark and Norway, which fcem unaccountably neglcdled, good
mads being the very ftamina of national improvcipent.

Inland navigation'.] Of late a laudable attention has been paid to
inland navigation ; and the chief effort has been to forni a canal between
Stockholm and Gothenburg. In tiiis canal, ilyled that ot Trolhattan,
conduced along the river Gotlui, llupendous excavations have been made
llirough the granitic rocks, in ordvr to avoid catarafts; one of which, ol*
more than 60 feet, is called the Infernal Fall. Yet the plans have re-
peatedly failed, from the ignorance of the engineers ; and the firft ex-
pence ought to have been to procure a i'uperintendant of real fliill froMi
Kiigland^. The intention was to condud an inland route from the Me-
I.r Luke to that of liiclmar, and thence to that of Wener; and by the

•('o\^ iv. 03. t ^^- 'V- '75. } 111. if oan.

f I liii canal i^ non comi<lcteJ, In ] mo l thi re jMiTed through it I99U iliiix ut dillVreiit
iL:;.. Udca WiiU uvn, Awl, [isnhttf Itv'iTUi^s, (Jiuui, lluur, (!i,c.

river

i^6

SWEDEN.

river Gotha, an outlet of the latter, to the Skager Rack and G i
Sea. This jrraiid defign is already in fome meafure completed ™^J I
in tlie year 1800 the rivers and old canals of Finland were order* Hi
be cleared : but in that region the ice affords the eafiell mode of *l
munication. "'*'

Maxukactures and commerce. 1 The Swedifli manufaftures - 1
far from being numerous, confilling chiefly of thofe of iron and ft.>i J
with cloths, hats, watches, and fail cloth. The manufadtures of con 1
and brafs, and the conilrudtion of fhips, alfo occupy many hands I I
1 7H5, it was computed that 14,000 were employed in thofe of wool' filJ |
and cotton. Of native products exported, iron is the moft confiderabl !|
and it is faid that tlie miners in the kingdom are about 25,600. 'I

The commerce of Sweden reils chiefly on the export of their native!
products, iron, timber, pitch, tar, hemp, and copper. Herrings alfo forml
a confiderable article. The chief import is corn of various kinds, partj '
cularly rye, Sweden rarely affording a fufficiency for her own confiimn.
tion ; with hemp, tobacco, fngar, coffee, drugs, fdk, wine.;, S:c. Mr
Coxe has pubhfhed a table of the Swedifli conniicrce, whence it appears!
that the exports then amounted to i,3^)S,S^ol. i ^s. ^d. and the imports I
to 1,008, 3»)2l. I2S. 4oti., fo that thi: balance in farour of Swidtn \va«
about 360,000!.

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL GEOCRArUV.

CSmate anil Scajlns. — Fac^ of the Country. — SoihuiJ ^^^ruullnre. — Ri\r,i.
— Lakeu — Alountiihis. — Fonjls. — liutauy. — Zoology.— Mtnaulo^y^
MinfraJ Waters. — 'Natural Curlofit'us.

_- •

^ _. T T^HE difft-rent parts of Sweden prcfnitl

Climate AND SEASONS.] I „rj« ui .• r . i'"^'^"'!

■* X conlidcrable varieties of temperature, I

but even in the middle regions winter maintains a long and dreary fway.f

The gulph of Bothnia becomes one field of ice : and travellers pafsoiiit!

from Finland by the ifles of Aland. In the moll fouthcrn proviiicvjj

where the grand mafs of the population is centered, the climate may bel

compared to that of Scotland, which lies under the fame paralKl ; butj

the vvcflern gales from the Atlantic, which deluge the Scottifli Higli.l

lands with perpetual rain, and form the chief obltacle to improvoiiiciit,!

are little felt. In the north the fiimmer is hot, by the refli rtion of tlie|

numerous mountains, and the extreme length of the days ; for at Toriifa,!

in Swedifh Lapland, the fun is for fome wceku vifible at midnijilit ; niidl

the winter in return prefenta many we'>ks of complete darknefs. Yctl

thefe long nights arc relieved, by the light of the moon, by tin- re-l

fieAion of the fnow, and by the Aurora Borealis, or northern Ii;,'lits,|

which dart their ruddy rays through the flcy, with an almoll c)i.llaiit|

effulgence.

Face of the coumtry. Soil and AonictLTunB.] No coimtryj

can be diverdfied in a mure pidurefi^uc manner, with extenfive lakct,!

large traufparciit rivers, winding (Ireams, wild cataracts, glooniy fonlb,!

verdant vales, flupenduus rocks, and cuhivated fields. The ftiil is nutl

the moft propitious { but agriculture is condu6ted with fkill and inj

4ullr^y fo as much to exceed that of Germany and Dcnioafk. li^vnl

J Fioliiadl

SWEDEN.

finiand prefents many rich paftures, and not a few fields of rye, oats,
joi barley.

RiVEBS.] Sweden is interfe£ied by numerous rivers, the largeft of
^hich are in the native language called Elbs, or E fs. The moil con-
{Jerable flow from the lakes, without any great length of courfe : fuch
« the Gotha, the only outlet of che van lake of Wener, but impeded
w many rocks and catarads. Many other rivers in the fouth rather
ifumethe form of creeks, and outlets of the lakes, as the Motala, which
jthe outlet of the lake Weter pafling by Norkioping ; and fcarcely can
iltream be named of confiderable courfe, till we reach the river Dahl,
il^moft important in Sweden ; confidinfir of two conjunct ilreams, the
ejlern and weftern Dahl, which rife in the Norwegian Alps, give name
tothe province of Dalarn, or Dalecarlia, and, after a courfe of about
](o Briti(h miles, enter the Bothnic gulph, about lo miles to the eaft
ofGe'B^i prefenting, not far from its mouth, a celebrated catarad,
(jleemed little inferior to that of the Rhine at Schaifhaufcn, the breadth
((the river being near a quarter of a.mile, and the perpendicular height
flfthc fall between 30 and forty feet *. The furruunding fcenery alfo
Ills the efFeft, which is truly fublime.

Farther to tho north, and in Swedifh Lapland, are many confiderable
pvers, which alfo arife from the Norwegian Alps, and flow into the

ilph of Bothnia, after circuits of about aoo miles. The chief of the

aplandic Ureams is the Tornea, which fprings from a lake of the fame
ginc; and, after receiving the Kengis, and other coniiderable rivers,
ioinsthe nurtlAn extremity of the Bothnic gulph, having run about 300
'Bfitilli miles. ^ ... '*'

Finland is fprinklcd with numerous lakes, which give rife to confider-
ible llreams, but of a (hort courfe ; as the Ulea ; the Cano which paifes
bj Biormborg ; and the Kymmen flowing into the centre of the gulph of
Finland.

Lakes] Few countries can rival Sweden in the extent and number
of lakes, which appear in almoll every province. Of thefe the mort im-
portant is the Wener, which is about 80 Britifh miles in length by about
pin breadth, in great part furroundcd with f'Tefts, and rocks of red
pnite. It receives 24 rivers, abounds with fifli, and contains many '
romantic ifles.

Next is the Weter, a lake of equal length, but inferior in breadth^
«hich fcldom exceeds 1 2 miles. This lake being furrounded with moun-
tains is particularly fubjeA to ftorms in the Uillell weather, whence arife
many popular tales and fupcrftitions : it contains two remarkable iflands :
ud on the fliores are found agates, camclians, and touch-ltones, or
pieces of fine bafaket. The Weter is clear, though deep ; and while ib
receives about 40 fmall rivers, has no outlet except the Motala.

The lake Meier, at the conflux of which with the Baltic it founded
the city of Stockholm, is about fixty Britifh miles in length by eighteen
lin breadth, and is fprinkled with pid^urefque ifles. To the S.W. is the
lake (if Hiclrrfir, more remarkable for its propofed utility in the udand
pi^atiun than for its extent.

Many other lakes arc found in the north of Sweden, among which tht
.mult confiderable is that of Stor, in the province of Jemtland. The
Ichii'f lake of Lapland is that of Eiiara, in the furthcil north, about
[evenly Britifli miles in length, by thirty at its grcatell breadth { after

1 may be named thofe of Hernafba Staer, or the great lake, Tornea*

• Wnxall'i Nortlicm Timr, p, i)t. Coat, v. b,

•n4

858

SWEDEN.

and others. The lake and mountain of Niemi, and the river Tengllo
which falls into the Tornea, have been celebrated by Maupertuis for their
pi£lurefque beauty.

The moll confiderable lake in Finland is that of Pejend, or Paiana
about 80 milea in length by 1 c in breadth, and which gives fource to the
river Kymmen. The lake of Saima to the E. is yet more confiderable
but it is chiefly within the Ruflian dominions : this liine may perhans
with its various creeks and commanications, be eftimated at 160 Britifh
miles in length, by 25 at its greateft breadth; and flows into the
Ladoga, by the great and noify current of Woxen, which forms a vaft
cataraA about a mile from its mouth *. *

Mountains.] Sweden may be in general regarded as a mountainous
country ; in which refpeft it is ftrongly contrafted with Denmark
Proper, or Jutland, and the ifles. The chief mountains are in that ele.
Vated chain which divides Sweden and Swedifh Lapland from Kor! i
way ; from which fucceflive branches run in a S.E. diref^ion. It
would appear that the granitic ridge of the chain is in Norway ; while i
the flanks, confiding as ufual of limeftone, pudding-ftone, and free
ftone, verge into Sweden. The centre of the chain feems, as in
the Alps and Pyreneies, to prefent the chief elevations, whence the
mountains decUne in height towards Lapland. In the centre and fouth
of Sweden the red granite becomes very conimon : but in Weftrogothia
the mountains are often of trap.

Farther illuftrations of the grand chain of mountains which divide
Sweden from Norway will be found in the dcfcription of the Danilh
dominions.

Forests.] The forefts of this kingdom are numerous, and without
their aid the mines could not be wrourht. Dalccarlia, in particular,!
abounds with them, and the numerous ukes arc generally flcirted withl
wood to the margin of the water. I

Botany.] Although the grand Scandinavian pcninfula be dividedl
by its political interefts between Denmark, Sweaen, and Ruflia, yttl
nature rcfufes to acknowledge any fuch dillin6iion : it fliall therefore bel
confidered with refpcd to its botany as one great whole ; nor can al
fketch of its indigenous plants be introduced any where with more pro.!
priety than in the defcription of that territorial part of it which, in ex«|
tent, is fuperior to all the reft, and which rcckont nmongft its citizenif
the illuftrious Linnxus, and feveral of his mod eminent dilciples.

The lowlands and lakes of Scandinavia are principally fituated in \h
fouth of Sweden and Finland, and the great ranges of Alpine mountain^
are f«und near the Arctic circle, or at leaft are confined to the norther
provinces : hence it is that Lapland, both from its elevation and iti
northern fitc contains feveral plants which are not to be met with in th
reft of the peninfula.

Several Ipccics are common both to England and Scandinavia ; anil
though the flora of Britain be the moft copious of the two, yet tlie fuJ
periority is not perhaps fo great as might be expe£led from the diiferencJ
of climate. If thofe fpecies that are natives of our chalk hilli anil
fouthern coafts are for the moft part wanting to Scandinavia, yet this lai|
cbntains feveral German and Amic plants which are not to bie found
our own ifland.'

Of timber trees there are but few fpecies ; the moft common, and
thofe which cooftitute the wealth of Scandinaviai are the Norway f iorJ

f Jk(chta4(,i.«74.

9, #

SWEDEN.

2^9

j^itliefir: of thefe there are immenfe forefls fpread over the rocky
mountains, and deepening with their fuUen hue the whole horizon ;
tioufands of giant growth are every winter overthrown by the ftorma,
jnd allowed to peri(h where they fall from the impoiTibility of tran*
fporting them to the fea ; others, in more acceflible fituations, are con-
verted to various human ufes ; the wood from its lightnefs and llraight-
gefs is excellent for mails and yards, and various domeflic purpoles ;
the juice, as tar, turpentine, and pitch, is almoil of equal value with
tbe wood ; and the inner bark, mixed with rye meal, furnidies a coarfe
brtad in time of fcaicity. The mountain afli, the alder, the birch, and
dwarf birch, and feyeral kinds of willow, arc found in the whole penin-
(ula : the lime, the elm, the a(h, and the oak, though growing with
frtcdom in the fouthern parts, are incapable of withftanding the rigours
of a Lapland winter. Among the larger flirubs the German tamariik*
2nd the barberry, are met with chiefly in the fouth ; the burnct rofe, the
the gale, the rafpberry, and Juniper, arc hardy enough to flouriih even
within tl« Arftic circle. The lower woods and thickets afford the
Linnxa borealis in great abundance, with the mezereon, the hepatica, and
the cornus Suecia. The iir woods yield two fpecies of pyrola, and the
lady fides of the mountains and alpine lakes are adorned by the ferra-
tula alpitia, tuflilago frigida, the wolfsbane aconite, globe flower, and the
[plendid pedicularis fceptrum.

The dry rough tradts on the fides of the mountains are covered with
the heath, the oearberry, and the Iceland ar.d rein deer lichen ; the one
m article of food to the inhabitants, the other the chief fupport of
the animal whofe name it bears. The bleak fummits, where even the
heath cannot root itfelf, are clothed with the beautiful azalea procumbens»
and other hardy plants.

The plants of Lapbnd may be divided into thofe which are cohimon
to this and to more fouthern cc.untries, and thofe which are fcarcely
(rer met with beyond the limits of the Ar£tic circle. Among the
ibrmer mav be particularized azalea procumbens, faxifruga cornua, and
Hiodiola roiea, all growing in immenfe abundance on the higheit moun*
tiins; tlie red currant, whortleberry, cloudberry, and ftone bramble,
the berries of all which are gathered in great quantities and pre-
ferred under the fnow till winter, at which time, mixed with rein deer's
milk, they form an agreeable variety in the food of the inhabitants : the

old woods are peruimed during the fhort fummer by the hly of the
nlley.

Tne vegetables peculiar to Lapland, and which grow either on the
I hlghell mountains or on the fhore of the northern ocean, are diapenfia
llippon-ja, andromeda cseridca, and tetragona, rubus ar£licus, ranun-
culus hyperboreus, pedicuiaris lapponica, gnaphaUum alpinum, fa!ix lap-
I ponum, and azalea lapponica.

Zoology.] The Swedifh horfes are commonly fmall but fpirited ;
lindarepreferved, by lying without litter, from fome of the numcruus
difeafet to which this noble animal is fubjcA. The cattle and fheep do
not feem to prefent any thing remarkable. Among the wild animals may
I be named the bear, the lynx, the wolf, the beaver, the otter, the g'utton,
Ithe flying fquirrel, Jtc. The rein-deer of Lapland is briefly dekribed
lin the account of the Danifh monarchy. Sweden alto prefunts one or two
p^uUr kinds of falcons, and an infinite variety of game.

MiHiaALOOY.] Of modem mineralogy Sweden may perhaps be
prooouoced the parent countfy ) and her authors, Wallcrius, Cruallcdt,

S a and

i6o

SWEDEN.

and Bergman, have laid the fir ft folid foundations of the fcience h
would therefore be a kind of literary ingratitude not to bellow due atte
tion on Swcdifh mineralogy, Firft in dignity, though not in profit
the gold mines of Adelfors in the province of Smoland. The jrold i
fometimes native, and fometimes comhined with fulphur. Some ores of
copper are alfo found in the fame vein, which likewife prefents calen
and iron. But thefe mines feem to be nearly exhaulled. In the pro.
dudion of filver Sweden yields greatly to Norway ; yet the mine of Sala*
or Salberg, about ^o Britilh miles weft of Upfal, maintains fome reputa-'
tion. The fdver is in limeftone ; which, however, when it is larjrel
grained and free from mixture, contains no mineral, and is ftyled ignoble
rock : it is on the contrary metalliferous when fine-grained, and mingled
with mica *. There are about loo veins, greater or fmaller. The fdver
is rarely found native, hut is procured from the galena or lead ore. Sil.
ver has alfo been found in Swediih Lapland.

The chief copper mines of Sweden are in the province of Dalecarlia
On the eaft of the town of Fahlun is a great copper mine fnppofed to
have been worked for near looo years f. The metal is not found in
veins, but in large mafles ; and the mouth of the mine prefents an im.
menfe chafm, nearly three quarters of an Englilh mile in circumference
the perpendicular depth being about 1020 feet. About 1200 miners are
employed. Copper is alfo wrought in Jemtland ; and at Ryddarhytte
is found iron. Ner is Sweden deficient in lead : but iron forms tlie
principal produd:, and the mine of Danamora is particularly celebrated
for the fuperiority of the metal, Vhich in England is called Oregrund
iron, becaufe it is exported from Oregrund an adjacent port, where the
Bothnic gulph joins the Baltic. The mines of Danamora have no m\.
let-ies, but are worked in the open air by means of deep excavationst.
The ore is in a limeftone rock, and occupies about 300 perfons in twelve
pits. This valuable mine was difcovcrcd in 1488. Bergman defcribes
the iron mine of Talierg in ijmulaud, as confiiling of beds of ore, «f a
blackifh brown, fcparated by beds of mould without any ftone j'. Thiji
enormous mineral pile is rivalled by an entire mountain of iron ore neai
'Tornea, in Lapland ; and at Lulea the mountain of Gellivar forms a mafs
of rich iron ore, of a blackiih blue, extending like an irregular vein foi
more than a mile, and in thicknefs from 300 to 400 fathom ||. Ccbali
is found ut Bafna, and zinc at Danamora ; while the mines of Sala prefeni
native antimony ; and molybdena appears at Norberg. Cual has beei
recently difcovcrcd in the province of Scone.

Sweden aI>ounds with beautiful granite ; but in marble yields to Nor<
way. Porphyry alfo appears in the mountains of Swucku, and raan
other parts.

The molt renowned medical waters in Sweden are thofe of Medevi,
eaftern Gothland.

Sweden and Swedifli Lapland abound with natural curiofities of
rious defcriptions. Some of the lakes and cataradlfr have been ahead]
mentioned ; and it would be in vain to attempt to defcribe the mai
fingular and fublinie IveneSf wliich occur in fo variegated and cxkuH
a country. ; ,,■,•*., .

* B<-rgii»n, I'hjr. G«i>g. utfupra, p. 4». f Toxe, v. 94.

5 Cuxf, V. 103. § flfupr*. |>.it.

t) IiiaiiothM{ialTiige,p. ai},nerf(B»uohferv<f that the two mountains of Kemiinr.
ftnd l/oufuwara, at PiiM Lapbuid, ouly divided \>j a little vallejr, m« wliolijcumpofeduf in
me,

REMOTi

MB >' ^ .«r...... M '

.1,J*-.<-.--»'"*.i-^7^-J^'.'"" Vi*' ■-"■ ■->fc-',- •

SWEDEN

i6t'

L-rfons intwilvel

REMOTE AND DISTINCT PROVINCES.

PoMERAXiA.] In fome inftances a province or provinces belonging to
] country are fo diilant, that they cannot be well inchided in the general
jccount, but mull like the iflands be confidered apart. In this cafe
jjSwedifh Pomerania, which contains about 103,000 inhabitants. Con-
^rning this ancient duchy, of which Sweden only pofTeflcs a portion^
Eufching has given ample details. The kings of Sweden and P* iflia
Iflve each a vote in the diets of the empire, the firft as duke of K ther
Pomcrania, and the other of Further Pomerania. The ancient line of
iuke» having become extind, S-iveden received, by the celebrated treaty
of VVeftphalia, great pofleflions in Pomerania ; but was obliged by the
peace of Stockholm, 1720, to refign a confiderable portion to the king
of Fruflia ; nor was the imperial inveftiture obtained by Sweden for the
nnuinder till 17^4. The governor, of Swedifh Pomerania refides at
jiralfund, where there is a court of juftice for military affairs. There
isalfo a royal court of juftice at Griefswald ; but the fupreme tribunal
I ji at Wifniar. The revenues of SwediHi Pomerania fcarcely exceed
110,000 rix dollars, and are encumbered with a public debt. The ifle
otRiigcn belongs to Swediih Pomerania, and nas the title of prin-
cipaiity. This lUe is very prodadlive in various kinds of grain, which
ire tranfported to Stralfund ; tne nobility are numerous, and as jealous
of their privileges as if they moved in a wider fphere. Rugen is divided
ioto feven panOies, the chief town being Bergen. Stralfund, the chief
town of Swedifli Pomerania, is furrounded with water on all fides, and
I maintains a confiderable trade. Griefswald is the feat of an univerfitf
in 1456. . .

SWEDISH ISLANDS.

Sweden pofTeflies many iflands, fcattered in the Baltic fea and gulph of

I Bothnia. Rueen, the moil foutherly, affords ns it were a pafTage to the

ISwedifh pofTefuons in Pomerania. This ifle formerly had its own princes,

Iwbo afterwards paid homage te the Danes. It was annexed to Sweden

Ibrthe treaty of Weftphalia, and is not a little produ£live in grain and

Icattle. Farther to the north^eall is the long ifland of Oland, or QSland,

Ik length about feventy miles, in breadth about fix. In the north are

unv fine forells, while the fouthcm part is more level and fertile. The

ma are fmall, but ftrong, and the fureiU abound with deer, nor is the

wild buar unknown. Freellone, alum, and touch-done are products of

Eland ; and the inhabitants are computed at near 8000. Next occurs

Mllaiid of Gothland, known to the literary world by the travels of Lin-

zus, about feventy miles in length, and twenty-four in breadth ; a fer-

':diilri£^, remarkable for an excellent breed of fheep. It was fubjedl

) the Danes for near two centuries, till 1645, when it was reftoredto

iKeden. The ifles of Aland mark the rutraiice of the Bothnic gulph,

Kriviiig their name from the lurgcil, which is about forty miles in length,

jid liftecn in breadth, containing about 9000 inhabitants, who fpeak the

Iwedilh language though included in the government of Finland. TheJie

Pes form as it were a biurier of rocks of red granite, llretching to the

ppofite Ihores.

S3 . ,. POR.

m(U

26i

PORTUGAL.

^ CHAPTER I.

HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.

lfamet,~^Extent,— Boundaries. — Original Peculation. "-'Progre^vt Geom^
phy, — Hiftorical Epochs and jtntiquitiet*

Names T T^^^ "*'"*^ °^ Portugal is of recent origin. In the Ro.
n AMES. J j^ j^jjj^ period there was a town called Ca/Ar, now Oporto
(o Portot or the Port,) near the mouth of the river Douro ; and, thij
haven being eminently diftinguiihed, the barbarifm of the middle ages
conferred on the circumjacent region the name Porto Calle ; which, as
the country was gradually recovered from the Moors, was yet more im. i
properly extended to the whole kingdom *. The ancient name of this j
country was Lulltania; but the boundaries do not exa£Uy corref.j
pond.

Extent.] Portugal extends about 360 Britifh miles in length by 120 j
in breadth ; and is fuppofcd to contain about 27,280 fquare miles, wRich I
with a population of 1,818,879, will yield 67 inhabitaniG to the milej
fquare f. The extent and population thus approach nearly to thofeofl
Scotland ; but by fome accounts the population of Portugal may exceed!
the calculation here followed by nearlv half a million. , I

Original population.] The original population of Portugal may j
be traced in that of Spain, and has unuergone the fame revolutions. I

Progressive geography.] The progreffive geography of Portugalj
is alfo included in that of Spain till the eleventh century, when it begani
to form a feparate ftate. The kings of Caftille had recovered a fmalll
part of this country from the Moors about the vear 1050: and thecon.|
queft was gradually extended from the north till about the middle of the
thirteerth century, when the acquifition of Algarve completed the prefenfi
boundaries of Portugal.

Historical epochs.] The hidorical epochs of fo recent a ftate canJ
not be numerous : nor is it necelfary to recur to thofe ancient eventsj
which more properly belong to the general hiftory of Spain.

1. The kings of Afturias fubdue fome of the Moorilh chiefs of tliej
north of Portugal. In 1054 Ferdinand king of CalUlle extends his conj

2ue{l to Coimbra ; and on fharing his dominions among his fons, Dod
rarcia, along with Galicia, had a part of Portugal, whence he is ftylej
on his tomb, A.D. 1090, Rex PortugalR* et GallicitX'

2. Alphonfo VI. brother of Garcia, and king of Caftille, having faJ
Tourably admitted feveral French princes to his court, among them wa|
Henry, whom he nominated count of Portugal, adding hisnatiiroldaughtd
Therefa in marriage. The count iignalized nimfelf by many viftorie$0T(
the Moors, and died in 1 1 1 3> leaving a fon Alphonfo I. of Portugal, vh
in the year 1139 K>>n» an illuftrious victory ovef five Moorifli princes, am
ia acclaimed king by his troops in the field of battle.

3. Alphonfo III., about the year 1254, completes the conquefti
Algarve.— -Portugal continued to be fortunate ia a fucceifion of

• D'AnviHe, £uu fonn^ en Ibuoptf &C p. 19t«
t Boettkber's Ttkbla, f. «6.

^ D*ABviIk, 194.

PORTUGAL.

163

pfjnres ; but the wars againft the Moors were unhappily followed by
^ofe againft the kings of CaftiUe.

J. Portugal was to attract the admiration of Europe by her commercial
jifcoveries. In 141 c John the Great, king of Portugal, carrying his arm*
into Africa, and taking the city of Ceuta, an impulfe wasjgiven to the
national fpirit ; and in 1430 we find the Portuguefe in poifemon of Ma-
deira. The Portuguefe difcoveries in Africa proceeded under John's
fucceflbrs, Edward, and Alphonfo V., and the aufpices of Prince Henry,
till, in the reign of John II. they extended to the Cape of Good
^ope: and in that of Emmanuel, Vafco de Gama opened the Eaft

r John III. admits the inquifition, A. D> 1526; fmce which event
the Portuguefe monarchy has rapidly declined.

6. Sebaftian king of Portugal leads a powerful army on an idle expe-
dition into Africa, and is flain in battle. He is fucceeded by his uncle
Cardinal Henry ; who dying two years afterwards, Portugal was feized
by Philip II. king of Spain, 1580.'

jr. Tlie revolution of 1640, which placed the houfe of Braganza on
the throne of Portugal. Little of confequenoe has fince arifen, except
the earthquake at Li(bon in 1755* ^"^ ^^^ rccert intermarrriages with
Spain, which promife, at no remote period, to unite tlic kingdoms.

8, The retreat of the royal family to Brazil, and the fubfequent
Itniggles with France.

Antiquities.] The antiquities of Portugal confift chiefly of Roman
monuments, with a few Moori(h remains. In the farthell north is an ex-
tenfive feries of arches, formerly a Roman aquedu^ *. Among the
antiquities of the middle ages may be named the noble monaftery of
Batalha, in Portuguefe Eftremadiira, about 60 miles to the north of
Liibon, founded by John I. at the clofe of the fourteenth century, in
confequence of the great viftory over the king of Caftille, one of the
moll noble inonument^ of what U called the Gothic ftyle of archl*
tefture j-. -^ -I- ' • .

CHAPTER XL

POLITICAL OEOORAPUT* . '

RiHgion.'^Ecclf/ia/iicai Geography. — Government. — Latot.—~DtvUiom and
Pofulalion.—'Coloniet.^-j1rmy,—'Navy,'^Rtvenue>-~'PolitUM Import^
ante and Relationt.

« ^ nPHE religion of Portugal is the Roman Catholic ;

' '■' X and a ftn£l obfervance of its duties forms one of the
Mtional chara£ieriftic8. There are two archbiflioprics, and ten epifcopal
fees: and there is befides a patriarch. The nuniber of parifties approaches
four thou fand;^.

Government, 5cc.] The conftitution of Portugal hi a monarchy, ab-

folate and hereditary ; yet in cafe of the king's dcmife without male iflue,

lie it fucceeded by his next brother { whofe fons have however no right

\ to the throne till confirmed by the Hates § . The chief articles of tlie

• Miirpliy'* Travels. "f- See the nulnuu «lel"cription by Murphy.

{ Mi(rj,iti)'k bt«te ui Turtugitl, p, lo. S lb. lv)9i iVoia lUe Fortu^viefe writers.

S 4 confti-

tiJitf i'l

254

PORTUGAL.

conilitution are contained in the ftatutes of Lamego, iiTued by Al.
phonfo I. in 1145. The laws have few particularities : they are lenient
m cafes of theft, which mni* be repeated four times before death be the
punifhment.

Divisions and population.} Portugal is divided into fix pro.
vinces. I. Entre Douro e Mmho. 3. Tras-os Montes. j. Beira. 4. Efl
tremadura. c. Alentejo. 6. Al^arve. The two firft being on the north
of the kingdom, the next two m the middle, the two lall in the fouth
The firft province derives its name from its fltuation, between the rivers
Douro and Minho, and is very populous and fertile, the fecond is
mountainous as the name imports ; but there are vales which contain vine-
yards, and other cultivated lands. Beira is a large and fertile province ■
and is rivalled in foil by Eftremadura, which, like the Spaniih province of
the fame name, is faid to derive its etymon from having been an extreme
frontier towards the Moors in the fouth. Alentejo, having been moft ex.
pofed to the attacks of the Spaniards, is defective in population. Algarve
is a very fmall divifion, which has however the honour of forming an ad.
dition to the royal titles. The population of the whole is, according to
Boetticher, 1,8,^8,879; but by Nlurphy's ftatement, 2,588,470.

Colonies.] The chief colony from Portugal is that ellaWilhed in
Brazil ; and they ftill retain Madeira and many fettlemerts on the coaft
of Africa, with Goa and Macao in the Ealt Indies, the relics of great
power and territory.

Army, &c.] The army is only computed at about 24,000; and the
militia might perhaps amount to as great a number. The naval power,
once coniiderable, is reduced to thirteen fail of the line, and Hfteen
frigates *.

Revenues] The revenue is calculated at 2,ooo,oool. fterling, and
the gold of Brazil moftly pafles to England in return for articles of
induftry.

Political importance and relations.] Portugal retains fmall
influence in the political fcale of Europe. Her commerce is almoit
wholly dependent on England : but by land (he is expofed to no danger,
except from Spain, or by the confent of Spain. The union of the two
countries would doubtlefs be advantageous to both ; but might prove
detrimental to Englifh commerce, and the yreight of England in the
Portugufe councils would infallibly fubilde.

■l

CHAPTER III. A - '

civil geography.

Af antlers and Cu/lomt. — Language.— rLUerature.—EtlucatioH. — UnhnfthX
—CUies and Townt,-^E<M(e4. -^ Roads. •- Inland Navigation%.—Mam\
faSurts and Commerce*

- - , nPHE manners and cuftonis of the Por.L

Manners AN» customs.] J[ ^^^^^^^ ^^ difcriminated into thofe

of the northern and fouthern pi^vincesy the former being more induftriousl
and fincere» the latter more polite and indolent. In general the Portuguefel
are an elegant racey with regular features embrown^ by the fun, and dark!

Murphy, M9,

expreiSvi

PORTUGAL.

265

fxpreffive ejts. The prejudices of nobility are as common and pernicious
in Portugal as in Spain ; nor is that general intercourfe found which im-
parts knowledge and vigour to fociety. Ladies of rank ftill imitate tlie
induftry of their ancellors in fpinning flax from the diltaff ; and the orien-
tal manner of fitting on cufhions on the floor is often pra£lifed. The
ixeii refembles the Spaniih. The peafantry remain miferable vaflals of
the Fidalgos, or gentlemen.

Language.] The Portuguefe language is more remote from that of
Caftill«J than might be expccied from the circumilances. As the royal
(jce was of French extrad, it is fuppofed that many of the words are
derived from the Limoiin and other dialcfts of the S. of France. It is
a ffrave and folemn fpeech ; but would have been little known among
foreigners, had it ngt been diffufed by the fame of the Lufiad.

LiTEBATUHE.] The literature of Portugal may be faid to commence
with Diniz, the fixth fovereign, who cultivated poetry and the belles
lettres, and founded the univeri'ity of Coimbra. In his reign lived Vafco
Lobeira, who is fud to have been the original author of that famous
romance, Amadis de Gaula. In more recent times, Sa da Miranda has
acquired reputation in paftoral poetry. The chief hillorians are Joao de
Barros, Fr. Luiz de Soufa, the venerable Bartholomeo do Quartal, and
the count de Ericeira *. Amonj^ the poets the moll celebrated is Camoeng.
In mathematics Pedro Nunez diltinguiflied himfelf at the beginning of the
fifteenth century. Of late years natural hiftory begins to be a little
iludied : but Portugal is the lall of nations in that department.

Education> &C.J Education feems greatly negleAed in Portugal,
though the univerlity of Coimbra be of ancient date. That of Evora
was founded in 1553; and a college at Mafra in 1772. The royal
academy is of recent eredlior, and the defign afpires to conliderable public
utility.

Cities And towns.] LiHjon, the capital city of Portugal, was called
by the ancients Ulyffippo, and the foundation fabuloudy afcribed to Uly fles.
The fituation is grand, on the north fide of the mouth of the Tajo, and is
(heltered on the N.W. by a ridge of hills. I'he haven is capacious and
excellent. The population is computed at about 200,000. The earth-
quaice of 1755, a dreadful and memorable epoch amoii^r the inhabitants,
has contributed to the improvement of the city, the new ftree s being
broad and well paved, refembling thofe in the welt end of London. For
conilant refidence the ladies prefer the attic floors ; and ventilation and
cooinefs are chiefly confulted, grates being almoil unknown ; while in
winter a warm cloak fupplics the place of a fire f . There is no court end
of the town ; and the fineft ftreets are inhabited by tradefmen. There
are public walks, two theatres, and a circus for the buU-feafts. The pa-
triarchal church is Angularly magnificent ; ands the revenue is computed
at 1 14,0001. The Englifh have an open burial ground. The royal
monaltery of Belem, founded by king Emanuel in 1499, ft:ands about
live miles S.W. of Lifbon; and to the north is a noble modern aquedud,
completed in 1732.

The next confiderable town, efpecially in the eye of flrangers, is that
of Oporto, or the Port, feated on the N. fide of the rjver Douro,
about five miles from the fea, upon the dechvity of a hill, fo that the
houfes rife like an amphitheatre. The ftreets are however narrow, and
the houfes ill conltrudcd* Population about 30,000. The churches

Murphy, \51,

f Murphy's Travels in Portugal, 148,

are

266

PORTUGAL.

are of little note : the Britilh factory is a large and nent buildin?. Tfr
chief exportif are wine, oranges, lemons,' &c., and linen cloth to th*^
American colonies in Brazil. •

Braga is another confiderable town in the fame province : and in th
fecond northern divilion are the towns of Miranda and Braganza, the lad
of which conferred the ducal title on the prcfcnt reigning family!

, In the province of Beira is the venerable city of Coimbra, with its an
cient univerfity. Alentcjo contains tlie city of Ivora, rather of ancient
fame than of modern confequetice. Tavora, the principal town of Al.
garve, does not exceed 5000 inhabitants *.

EoiVlCES.] ' The chief edifices of Lifbon are the cathedral, and mona-
iteries formerly mentioned. The nobility, as in Spain, crowd to the
capital, whence the country is little decorated with villas. In the moim.
tains of Cintra, the fartheft weftern extremity of Europe, about 20 miles
W. of Lifbon, is placed a remarkable monaftery, 3000 feet, as is faid
above the fea, towards which there are remains of ancient buildings, and
a curious bath replenifhed by a never-failing fpring. On the E. of the
mountain is a fummer palace, of morefque architefture. The environs
are rich and delightful, fupplying moil of the fruits and greens ufed
at Liflion. Here is alfo a {mall vineyard, that of Carcavella, yielding
a peculiar grape, which gives name to our Calcavella, a wine generally
fabricated in London f .

Inland navigation.] Portugal feems to have paid no attention
whatever to the conftrudlion of canals ; nor perhaps are they found ne.
cefiary, in a country abounding with rivers, and bordered with an am*
pie extent of fea eoait.

Manufactures and commerce.] The Portu^uefe manufafluresare
few and unimportant : hats and paper have been lately fabricated at Lif>
bon ; but the chief manufa^ories are thofe of woollen cloth at Covilhatn,
Portalegre, andAzeitaon.

A confiderable commercial intercourse fubfifts with England ; but the
balance in favour of the latter appears to be about 400,0001. fterling :
and Ireland gains by ber exports about 63,000!. annually:^. The Fal.
mouth packets bring frequent remittances of bullion, coin, diamonds, and
other precious ftones ; and for a confiderable time the Portilguefe gold
money was current in England. Befides woollens and hardware, Enghnd
tranfmits to Portugal large cargoes of falted and dried fifli, the laft article
to the annual amount of about 2oo,oooU The exports of Portugal are
chiefly wine, oil, oranges, lemons, figs, fugar, cotton, cork, drugs, and
tobacco. Portugal alK) maintains a confiderable trade with her Aourifh*
ing colony in Brazil, the inhabitants of which are computed at 900,000.
The articles exported to America are chiefly woollens, linens, ftuifs, gold
and Aiver lace, fifli dried in Portugal, hams, faufages, &c. with glafs
manufaflured at Marinha. Brazil returns gold, filver, pearls, precious
ftones of various defcriptions, rice, wheat, maize, fugar, molalTes, or.
namental timber, and many other articles rather curious than important.
The drugs, fpices, and articles ufed in dying, muft not however be
omitted. The trade with the Eaft Indies is inconfiderable.; and that
with the other European nations fcarcely deferving notice : it is chiefly
with Holland, France, Denmark, and Germany. Some trade is alto
carried on witli the American ilates.

* Eft)mate<) hy Tome however at 30,000.

I Mur;)h/8 StatC; 69.

CHAP.

PORTUGAL. 267

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL GEOGRAPHY. "

,„je(Md Seafom»'—Face of the Country,— Soil and Agriculture,— -Rlvert.
shakes. — Mountains. — Forejls.'—— Zoology. •^Mineralogy.— -Mineral
{Patera— Natural Curiofities.

T T^HE climate of Portuffal is familiarly

CUMATBS AND SEASONS.] J^ ^„^^„ ^^ y^^ ^^^ ^^^^^jj^^^ ^„j f^j^'.

tary. At Lifbon the days of fair weather are computed to amount to
200 in the year ; and thofe of fettled rain f<;ldom exceed 80. TliC me-
dial heat is generally about 60° *.

Face of the country, &c.] The face of the country is generally fer»
tile, though with many acclivities ;' and in the N.E. corner there nfes a
confiderable clufter of mountains, feemingly unconnected with the great
Spanifh chains. The numerous vineyards, and groves of orange and
lemon trees, confpire with the cryftal ftreams and verdant vales to im-
part great beauty and diverfity to this favoured country. The foil,
Ike that of Spain, is generally light ; but the agriculture is in rather a
negleded (late. Meadows are litUe known, except in the N.W. pro-
vince, between the Douro and the Minho i and many fine vales remain
in a (late of nature.

Rivers. ] The rivers of Portugal have been aire- sJy enumerated in the
dcfcription of Spain. The Tajo is here a noble ftream, and its eftuary
near Lifbon aifords a capacious haven, from two to nine miles in breadth.
Among the native il reams may be named the Mondego, which pafles by
Coimbra ; the Soro, which runs into the Tajo ; and the Cadaon, which
forms the harbour of Situval. Scarcely a lake can be traced in the map
of Portugal.

Mountains, j The mountains of this kingdom have not been exactly
defcribed. Thofe in tl.c N.E. fecm an unconnefted clutter, as already
mentioned ; but tlie Spanifh chain to the N. of Madrid, called by fome
the mountains of Idubeda, enters Portugal near the tojyn of Guarda, and
purfues its former courfe to the S. W. The chain of Arrabeda, in Eftre-
madura, feems a branch or continuation of this : it is chiefly calcareous,
and affords beautiful marble. In the province of Alentejo is a fmall chain,
■ fcven leagues in length by two and a half in breadth, running between the
city of Ivora and town of Eflramas, wliich may be regarded as belonging
to the chain of Toledo,

Zoology.] The zoology of Portugal may be regarded as the fame
with that of Spain f. The horfes are, however, much inferior. The
(lieep are alfo negleAed, and far irom numerous ; but fwine abound, and
are fed with excellent acorns, fo that the Portuguefe hams are defervedly
cfteemed.

Mineralogy.] The mineralogy of Portugal has been almoft as much
negleAed as the agriculture. In tqe two northern provinces are fecn
immenfe mines, fuppofed to have been worked by the Romans, being
perhaps the mines in the N. of Lufitania mentioned by ancient authors i}^.
The mouth of the largefl, cut through the folid rock, is a mile and

• Murphy's Tnvtls, 220,
% Murphj'»9ttte, 35.

f For the botany, fee Spun.

a half

268

PORTUGAL.

a half in circumferenc<?, and upwards of 500 feet deep ; at the botto
it meafures 2,400 feet by 1400. Many fubterranean paifages pierce th
mountain like a labyrintli, and the whole works are on the grandeft fcal
Small veins of gold have been obferved in the mountains of Goes and
Ellralla ; and it is ftill found in the fand of fome ftreams, as ii: ancient
times the Tajo was celebrated for this metal. Under the demination of
the Spaniards a mine of filver was worked, not far from Braganza, fo late
as the year 1628. Tin was alfo found in various parts of the northern
provinces. There are lead mines at Murfa, Lamego, and Cogo ; and the
galena are ores very produo.tive.of fdver ; copper is found near Elvis, and
m other diilridts. The iron mines are neglefted, from a deficiency of
fuel } though coal be found in different parts of the kingdom, and that of
Buarcos fupply the royal foundery at Lifbon. Emery is found near the
Douro ; and man- beautiful marbles abound in this kingdom. Fullers'
earth occurs near Ciuimerans. Portugal alfo boails of antimony, manga-
nefe, bifmuth, and arfor.ic ; and near Callello- JJranco are mines of quick-
filver. Rubies have btcn difcovtrcd in / Igarve ; jacinths in the rivers
Cavado and Bellas j beryl or acjiiuinarine in the mountain of Ellralla. In
fliort, Portugal abounds with minerals of moll defcriptions ; and nolhlna
is wanting but fuel and induftry.

Mineral waters.] Nor is there any ilefcA of mineral waters of
various kinds. The baths of Caldas da Rainha, in Ellrcniadura, are
the mod celebrated ; and the next are thofe of Chaves.

Natural curiosities ] On the north bank of the river Douro jj
a high maffy chff, with engraved letters or hieroglyphics, ilaiiitd with
Vermillion and blue ; beneath which is a grotto, fuppoied to abound with
bitumen.

\ ^

PORTUGUESE ISLANDS.

Azores.] The Azores properly belong to Europe, and not to Africa,
under which laft divifion of the globe they have hitherto been clalTed.
They are about thirteen degrees from Cape St. Vincent in Portugal,
while the African fhore is more dit^ant by at leall one degree ; and their
latitude rather coniic£ls them with Europe than with Africa : not to
mention that they were firft peopled by Europeans, and that this portion
of the globe is too fmall to abandon any appendage.

The general accounts bear that thefe iflands were all fuccffllvely dif-
covered by the Portuguefe, before I4.49» ^'*'^ K''^'' ^hem th« name of
Azores from the nutnber of golhawks, which they here obferved re
niarkably tame, there being neither man nor quadruped. But there is
fome rcafon to believe that they were not unknown before, though,
being left uninhabited^ they attradled little attention. The map cxc
ciited at Venice in 1 367, by Fr. Picigano, and preforvcd in the duml
cabinet at Purma, tlioiigh it rontain the Canary Iflands, with their mu-
dern names, does not prefent the Azores; but that of Bianco, 1436,
prefents oven the moll remote and detached of thefe iflands, Corvo and
Fiorez. But fuch monuments cannot always be depended on, as ad-
ditions may have been made a century after tlieir tirll condrudlion.

However this be, in 14O6, the Portuguefe king gave them to hii
fifler the duchofs of Burgundy ; and they were in confequcnce coloni/cd
by Flemings and Germans, among whom was Job de Hucrter, father-in.
law of the celebrated gcugraphcr Martin Behaini> who rcfided in Fayal.

1 The

PORTUGAL.

269

The fubfequent hi{lory is rather obfcure ; but the FIemi(h inhabitants
fj^ni to have always acknowled^d the king of Portugal.

The crown of Portugal having become united to that of Spain in
ifSo, the irthabitants of thefe remote iflands appeared willing to rejcA
i^e Spanilh yoke, and to acknowledge Don Antonio as their fove-
itign. The French in confequence lent a body of troops to Tercera,
(ommanded by De Chafte, in 1583, who were, however, defeated in a
liattle with the Spaniards *.

Thefe events feem to have excited the attention of the Englifli during
(lieirwarmcompetition with Spain ; and in 1589, the earl of Cumber-
land fitted out four (hips at his own expence, with which he cruized off
the Azores. The account of thi* expedition was drawn up by Edward
Wright, an excellent mathematician who was prefent, and fuppofed to
lave been the firft author of tlie celebrated invention for the con{lru£lion
of charts, commonly called Mercator's proje£kion, though it feem to
bave been known a century or two before, as it cannot be diftinguiOied
from that of feveralmaps and charts jn wliich the degrees of longitude
are carelefsly reduced to fquares. It appears that the people of Florez
itill acknowledged Don Antonio as their king, and fupphed the En-
A with proviftons. Some Spanifh ihips were taken ; but the rich
caracs had departed a week before their arrival. The town of Fayal
was plundered f. In IC91, a glorious a£lion was fought near the ifle
of Florez, by Sir Richard Grenville, in the Revenge, againft fifteen
Spanilh diips of war ; and though his vefTel was reduced to a complete
wreck, her gallant commander died on the fecond day of his captivity*
nther oC vexation than of his wounds. The account of this adion is
written by the celebrated fir Walter Raleigh. In the fame year, irai,
captain Flicke commanded a cruizing voyage to tlic Azores, and has
hiinielf di'awn up an account of tlic expedition. The intention was, as
ufual, to watch for Spanilh (hips from the Well Indies. The Spaniards
luving probably altered their arrangements, this practice of cruizing off
the Azores appears to have only continued for a few years; and the hif«
toryof thefe interefting iflands relapfcs intoobfcurity.

A furious earthquake is faid to have been felt on the 9th of July

I7J7-
The chief ides are St. Michel, Tercera, Pico, or the Peak, and Fayal,

vrithtwo fmaller far in the weft called Florez and Corvo. An excellent

map was publi/lied at Paris, in 17911 from the obfervations of M.

Flcurieu, and of Tofiho the Spanifh aftronomer. St. Michel is repre-

fenti'd as about forty Britifh miles in length, by about twelve of medial

breadth. The finell oranges are exported from tbib iiland to London ;

the large being called by the name of the ifle, while the fmall are the

noted pot oranges. Tercera is about twenty-five by 6fteeti. The Peak

about thirty by ten ; and is exceeded by St. George in length, but the

breadth of the latter feldom exceeds five miles. The detached iflands

of Florez and Corvo arc very fmall, cfpecially the latter.

The volcanic mountain, which gives name to the Peak, is by fome

reported to equal that of Teneriffe in height. M. Adanfon, who vi-

fited tliefe iflands on his return from Senegal in 1753, fays that the

Peak is about half a league in perpendicular height ; the common

French league being 2450 toifes, the height would on this fuppofition

• Sf* Tlicvcnot't Colleftion, »ol. iv. for the voytge of De Chtflc. Tin ctltbratci

I Hiirrni »|fii jT,ve « i(>|)ar«i(e liijlory of diMe traiifa.ftii>in, Midrid, ISVi, 4U.
t ^te Uiit viiy«i;e at llokluyt, vul. ii. or in .^Icy'i colloiittuii.

t
(

♦syo

PORTUGAL.

be very moderate, not exceeding 7350 feet. In the views which ac*
company the French map, the Peak rifes from the fea in the fhape
a bell. This iiland is faid to produce excellent wine.

The Peak of the Azores would form a very convenient firft meridian!
of longitude, inftead of the various and confufed diilinftions reccntlv
adopted ; and which feem rather to originate in national vanity, than ini
any juft principles of the fcience, which they greatly tend to obfcure I
Itfelf a moil remarkable objeft, and placed near the weftern extremit«
of Europe, no fituation could be preferable for this important pufiofc I
which would tend fo much to throw a clear and univerfal light on geoJ
graphical pofitions.

In general the Azores are mountainous, and cxpofed to earthquakfi
and violent winds ; yet they produce wheat, wine, fruits, and abimdanc^
of wood. The chief is Tercera (whence they are fometimes llvleS
Terceras*), being 15 leagues in circumference. The capital town ij
Angra, on the S.E. lide of Tercera, with a harbour defended by a!
fortrefs, in which refides the governor of the Azores. Angra is a|
bifhopric, with fomc handfome churches, particularly that of the Cor-l
deliers ; and there are two other mnnafteries, and four nunneries +.

According to M. Adanfon, the harbour of Fayal prefents a beau.l
tiful amphitheatre, clothed with trees ; the town has 5000 inhabitants I
but may be faid to coniiit of convents : the governor is llyled Ca/i/flnij
mor. The climate and foil are excellent, there being no occafion for iire|
in the winter. The trees arc walnuts, chcfnuts, white poplars, and parn
ticularly the arbutus or flrawberry tree, whence the name, for Fayal ini
the Portuguefc implies a Rrawbcrry ^. Cattle, &c. abound : ;et al!nofl

;

* Terceru and Azorei ue of the fame import. Tercera u the Herrcl of our filconrjJ
(ft/o/c cvmmuninitcd.) 1

f Bufehing in )us (icopvphjr, (tit. S90. Fr. tr.) hM rightly placed the Atom tfier thtl
defcription «f Poi tuxal t but he errs while he includes Maueirm in the (amc defcriptioa, 1
cunfidci'ing iliat the latter is tkt iieare r to the cooA of Africa than to that of Europe, uiJ t„

Sincfal rule ii to afcribe Ute iflei to the iieareft continent. Nur i< hb argument, tint thil
lorej lieluiij' to Furope becaufe'ihe chief town Ant^ra fcnda a deputy to the aOemblv off
the ftatea of Portugal, like the other towin (A the kingdom, very cogetit, u fome of titil
Rutian govemnients include portions ot'Afiaand Europe.

The defcription ui' tiufching t« in his ufoal prolix and feeble manner, h« bctnf a dry to
piler incapable of fvi/inz interefting cin umAaucea, but fomc bints may be extiai$\ed.

The Azores have alfo ueen called the Flumrigas, or Flemifh lilauda, having been
tiLwd by that people. St. Michel, the luoll populous, is faid to contain il^soo fouls, beJ
fide* 139J religioui. Tlie produce of wheat and millet is very ronfidersSle, and thtt (
win* computed at 6000 pipes. '1 Mr particular* Bufching feena to have drawn fn
thtliillorical fieo^raphjr of I'octiigal, by Don Luic Caetano de Lima, 1794, 6. folit^
The chief town uf St. Michel iil'onta Dal^b, which has 1879 houfes, three ckurthnj
and feven convents. The nevt town is Viliafraaca. Ibe new ifle, which ara(e in I'tt
between St. Michel and Tcrctra, liat fince difappcared. Tercem ia fo called, l>ccaufe itvi.
the third ifle which was difcovered. Ihc epi'c opiil city of Aiigra has a coiifidcnl)le pop]
OB the eafl of which is a moumain called Brar'l, a name probably riven by the mviacn fn
a fuppofed ifle called Brazil, arbitrarily placed in the welirra ocean in (««■>• old maps. An
is aiH-atci(y, the reiidencc of the governor-general iinct lb« year 17M, and cumsiiMfiiJ
cliuiche* lielidcj the cathedral. Pico carries on a confiderablc trade in wine, wliirlt fNini
to lie fii'd u Canorv. 'Hie chief town of Kuyal is Horta or Hucrta pfui)ably cvuut^itiij
whh the nnrop of Job de Huerter.

tin Portuguefe (Cee ihedi^ionarrof Vievra), a flrawberry iamtrango. In the fiiul
language Jaya is a^teech trat, and fmyal a piaca where beech treei grow, whtnre hs (^mi]
allv fays is derived th» name of Faifid, an ifland of the Azores, fo ewlad from the numl:c
of baecb treea growing in it. TIm Mbutua II mttrvihtOf {^^ (bat mir Mtkor ttuA be nii-j
i^«B in bi* ctyuwloigr. .

SWISSERLAND.

171

•jieonly birds are a kind of blackbirds, fpeckled with white. Fayal it
gtker mountainous, and there is a volcano near the centre, but the kft
option was 1672. It is to be regretted that thefe interefting ifles, like
I ]l! other Portuguefe fettlements, are almoft unknown *.

SWISSERLAND.

CHAPTER I.

HISTORICAL GEOORAPHY.

AW^ — -Ev/^«/. —Boundaries. — r»'vl/ions, — Originid Population*^— Pm-
grejfivt Geography. -^Hijlorical Epochs and Antiquities,

- '' I 'HE provinces now known by the colleAive name of
Names. J ^ Swifferland, were, in ancient time8,'^diftingnifhed by fe-
I teral appellations. By the Romans they were regarded as a part of Gaul ;
jid the chief pofTeflbrs were the Helvetii on the well, and the Rhxti on
tlieeaft ; the chief city of the Helvetians being Aventicum, now Avenche.
Ufterthefallof the Roman empire, this intcrefting country may, in a
Mcral point of view, be confidcred as poflcffed by the Alemanni on the
oft, who alfo held Sua n-» :>d Alface ; and on the weft, as a part of
Bargundia, the inhabitaii. ' (lyled Burgumil trans Jaren/est becaufe9

with rejjard to France, tli , ■■ -■ ; fituuted on the other fide of the moim-
ttins of Jura f . Divided among fcvcr.il lords, fccular and fpiritual, the
I iaheritanccs of the former at length cliicfly centered in the houfe of Hapf>
g, afterwards the celebrated family of Auftria ; and, on its emancipa-
I m in the beginning of the fourteenth century, firll appeared the modem
denomination of Swiflerland, cither derived from the canton of Schweitz,
Minguifhed in that revolution, or from the general name of Schwcitzers,
mm by the Auftrians to this alpine peo6le. For the fake of prccifion*
modern wriiers reftriA the orthography of Sthweitz and Schweitzer to the
canton; while the general appellation for the people is the Swifs, and for
the country Switxcrland, or Swiflcilund.
Extent.] In length from eaft to wed, Swifferland extends about 200
iBntifh miles, and in breadth, from north to fouth, about 130. The
Icontentg in fquare miles have been eftimated at 14960 : but the greater
Iputiiloll to human induilry, confifting of vaft rocks, partly covered with
littmal ice and fnow. Even of this country the boundai-ies nre rather arbi«
jtrary than natural ; though on the ^ -?ft mount Jura forms a grand divifion
llrom France ; and on the fouth the Pennine Alps, a partial barrier from
[Italy. On the call lies the Aullrian territory oi Tyrol, and on the north
Suabia, containing, as it were, an cxcrofcencc of Swiflerland on the
her fide of the Rhine, the ftViall canton of SchaiThaufen.
Divisions.] The Swifs league, before the French invafion, confifted

*Acc<inlin|(tnM. Kerguplen, (Koyage dan lit mtr dn Nard, PlirUl771, 4to. p. 161.)
*(re Hilly exilU wn ifle, or mtlicr Urge rut-k, c»lletl Hokol. in ht. ij" JO' long. 16° W.of
Vii I ilint it •lN)ut five jR((rMjkS. W. of St. Kilda t ■noUuur luaoU ptltkU ol fiuTOp*.

t D'AjiviUe, £uu tutu). A fiiurope, p, 19. 99.

« I of

27*

SWISSERLAND.

of tWrteen independent confederated cantons and their fubjefts and allies
according to tlvi following lilt. *

1 . Canton of Berne, wltk the Pays de Vaud.

2. Canton of Friburg.

3. Canton of Bafel. • *

4. Cnnton of Soleure.

5. Canton of Schaffhaufen. •-

6. Canton of Zurich.

7. Canton of Appenzel.

8. Canton of Lucerne.

9. Canton of Zug.

10. Canton of Schweitz.

1 1 . Canton of Underwald.

1 2. Canton of Uri.

' 13. Canton of Glaiis.

14. Principality of NeufchatQl (fubjeiSl to Pruflia).

1 5. Bi(hoprick of Baflc.

16. County of Baden.

17. The free Bailliages.

18. Turgovia. .

19. Tokenburg.

20. The Rhinthal.

2 1 . Lands of the Abbey of St. Gal.

22. Country of the Grifons.
33. Valteline.

24. Italian Bailliagds.

25. TheVallaisi.
Original population.] The original populatinnis tliouglit to Iiav; j

been Celtic, yet it would be difHcult, either from hillory or from ancient
appellations, to trace therefidrncc of thcCcltft in SwifTerland ; aiidtlierc
18 every reafon, on the contrary, to believe that the Helvetians were a I
Gothic race, a very ancient colony of Germans.

PuoGnE.ssiVE GKOURAMiY.] The progreffivc geography of SwilTerlaiidj
may be traced with confiderable cicarnefs from the contell uf CxfarJ
with the Helvetians, through the clailic, Francic and native hidoiiaiis, to]
the prefent time.

Historical kpoc jis.] The chief hiilorical epochs may be arrangcdl
in the following order :

1. The wars with the Romans ; the fubjugation of the Helvctii and!
Rhxti, and the fnbfequcnt events till the decline of the Roman empire in
the weft.

2. The irruption uf the Alemaniii Jn the beginning of the fourth
century, who are by fome fuppofcd to have extirpated tlie ancient Hel
fctians.

3. The fubjugation of the weRcrn part of Swiflerbnd as far as tlie
fiver Rcufs by tiic Franks, who annexed that portion to BurjrundyJ
The Grifons on the ealt were fubjcd to Thcuduric, and other kings J
Italy.

4. The converfion of the country to Chriftianity by the Iridi monksCo
luaibanuB, GalhiH, and others, in the beginning of the foventh century.

5th* Tlw invalion of Alemannia by the Huns*, in the year 909!

* Thp Ugun, fo c«]U<l \i} tha writ«n uf Ut« tuns. Tl*/ wtit • IruiJi of tlui V
• FinuUh nM,«.

tiiiul

ani

SWISSERLAND.

27s

Gt% and -dl' ^1 tfld ^^ fubfequent contefts with thefe barbarians till the middle of that
^^ century.

6. About the year 1030 the provinces which now conftitute Swifler*
land began to be regarded as a part of the empire of Germany ; and in
the courfe of two centuries they gradually became fubje^ to the houfe of

Hapfl)"fg«

r The commencement of the Swifs emancipation, A. D. 1307 ; and
tie fubfequent ftruggles with the houfe of Aullria.

3, The gradual increafe of the confederacy; the Burgundian and Sua>
bian wars ; and the contefts with the French in Italy.

g. The hiftory of the reformation in Swiflerland.

10. The infurrre£lion of the peafants of Bern^ in the middle of tlie
feventeenth century.

11. The diiTolution of the confederacy by the French invafion, A. D.

Antiquities.] The ancient monuments of SwifTerland are not nume-
rous, confifting chiefly of a few remains of the Romans, at Aventicum and
VindernifTa. Some alfo occur at Ebrodunum, or Yverdun, and at Baden»
tlie ancient Thermae Helvetica. Of the middle ages are many catUes,
churches, and monaileries ; the moft noble among the latter being the
abbey of St. Gal, the library of which fupplied the manufcripts of three
or four claflical authors, no where elfe to be found. Some interefting mo«
numents relate to the emancipation of the country, and have contributed
to extend the fpirit of freedom from generation to generation.

CHAPTER 11.

' POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Uiim'-^EcclefiqJlical Geography. ^-Government.-— Lotus. — Population,-^
jirmy. -"Navy*— -Political Importance and Relations.

. ^T^HE religion of the SwIfs countries is in fome the

RELKiiON.j j_ i^on,an Catholic, in others the Reformed. Of the
former perfuafion are Uri, Schweitz, Undcrwaldcn, cantons which
founded the liberty of the country, with Zug, Lucerne, Friburg, Solo-
tliurn, part of Glarus, and Appenzel. In thefe are found fix bifhopricks^
and one metropolitan fee. The reformed cantons are of the Calviniftic
or prefbyterian perfuafion, being the rich and extenlivc canton of Berne»
with Zurich, Bafel, or according to the French enunciation Bafle, Schaff-
haufen, the greateft part of Glarus, and fome portions of Appenzel.
The country of the Grifons is chiefly proteftant ; and Vallais, an ally of
the thirteen cantons, has been the fcenc of atrocious perfecutions on ac-
count of its difaffe£tion from the Catholic faith ; but the inhabitants, to
the amount of about 100,000, now profcfs the Roman Catholic fyllem.
In general the two perfuafiOns live in the moll amiable unity and
moderation.

G0VKHNMRNT.3 The government of Swiflerland has been a fertile
theme of difcuihon. The moil powerful citntons of Berne, Zurich, Lu-
cerne, and Friburg, had retained much of the feudal ariilocratic form ;
ind the infurrefiion of the peafants, in the middle of the feventeenth
century, unites, with repeated dilcontcnts, to convoy no high pradlical
tulogy on the conftitution, as thefe Ample and honed vadals were not
iallucnccd by theories of fcdition, but acted fulcly from \\\m own fcolings

T of

H;»:M(

274

SWISSERLAND.

of oppreflion. In the eye of the niofl; candid obfervers the ariftotr
had degenerated into a venal oligarchy, move intent on procuring tK'!
lucrative government of the bailliages than on the promotion of the
neral advantage. The other cantons were more democratic : but th"
recent fubverfion of the government by the French has for fome tim^
reduced Svvifferland to a dependent province, with new divifionsand
rangements. The laws of courfe partook of the nature of the gevern"
ment of each canton ; and under the ariftocracies were fufficiently iealou'
and fevere. Yet Swiflerland was one of the happieft countries in Euron
and recommended itfelf to the moft intelligent obfervers equally by moral
and by phylical grandeur and beauty.

Population.] The population of this interefting country is generalK-
computed at 2,000, 00 *, »r about 130 to the fquare mile. But fo large
a portion is uninhabitable, that on a fubtraftion of fuch parts the number
might be about 200 to the fquare mile.

Army.] The military force was reckoned at about 20,000 ; but in
the late ftruggle with France this force appears to have been divided and
little effe6^ual. The Svvifs regiments in foreign fervice were computed
at 29 ; but they returned weakened in frame and morals, and feldom
proved ferviceable to the ftate. The permifllon to fcrve in foreign
countries has been loudly biamed as a moral deformity ; but when we
confider the poverty and population of Swiflerland, we may conceive that
the want of native refources confpired with the ambition and curiofity
interwoven with the charafter of man, to Simulate the youth to this path
of inftrudtion and preferment, while the government only connived with
the national wifli.

Revenue.] The ruinous effefts of French extortion cannot be di-
vined, but the revenue of Swiflerland was formerly computed at fomc.
what more than a million fterling, arifing from moderate taxation, from
tolls, national domains, and foreign fubfidies. The cantons of Bern and
Zurich were confidercd as opulent, while in others the refources tardly
equalled the expenditure.

Political impohtance and helations.] The political importance
and relations of Swiflerland are immerged in thofe of the French repubhc.
Should the Swifs emancipate their country, their chief objedl would be

groteflion againil the power of France ; and in this view nothing could
e fo ferviceable as a itrift alliance with Auftria.

CHAPTER III.

CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.

Manners and CuRoms. — Language.— Literature. — Education. — Univtrfitui

— Citls and Towns. — Educes. —Roads. -^Inland Navigation.— Mam.

foQurcs and Commerce.

w T A MIDST

Manners and customs] JX^

the general corruption of I
mannTS, thofe of the Swifs have
loitg excited applaufe, from their moral uniformity and frank indepen-
dence. The houfcs are generally conttrufted of wood, in the moll fiinplc
form, with iliiir-cafes on the outiide ; yet their appearance fingularly
coincides with the pidturefque charafter of the country. The drefs of the

* The •uumtratioD ot ]I01 only g»*e 1,499,960.-' V(<tt*><i«r,

lower

SWISSERLAND.

^75

(offer ranks is little fubjed to the laws of faihion, and in many cantont
tiiere are regulations to prevent idle ornament. Among the fuperior
ijaflesthe manners may be confidered as partly German> and partly French :
but it maybe imagined that at prefent the latter preponderate. In gene-
ril the Swifs are remarkable for an intenfe attachment to their native
country ; and there are few who do not return there to terminate their
esiftence. This impreflion is almoft irrefiftible, and liable to be awakened
\)v the moft minute circumftances. Hence in the French armies the tune
(ailed the Ranee des Vaches, often fung by the Swifs milkmaids when they
^nt to the pailuresy was carefully interdi£ked, becaufe it melted the
roHgh Swifs foldier into tears, and feldom failed to produce defertion.
This inconquerable paflion feems to arife in part from a moral fenfibility
to the enchanting eafe and franknefs of the native manners ; and in part
from the piAureique features of the country, the verdant hills contrailed
with Alpine fnows, and delicious vales watered by tranfparent ftreams 5
fcenes no where elfe to be difcerned in fuch perfe£lion, and which niuil
powerfully affefl the imagination, the parent of the paifions.
Language.] The language of SwifTerland is a dialed of the German ;
but the French is much difFuTed, and is often employed by their bell
authors. In the moll fouthern parts, bordering on Italy, the Valteline,
and other territories acquired from Milan, the Italian is the common
tongue. Among the Grifons in Engadina, and in fome other parts, is
[poken what is called the RomaneHi, which feems immediately derived
from the Latin. The Vallais or that part of Swiflerland watered by the
Rhone, has alfo a particular dialed : and at the city of Sion the French
begins to be fpoken, as it is alfo the prevalent la^nguage in that beautiful
part of the canton of Berne called the Pays de Vaud. The language
iiJled the Vaudois appears to have been confined to the valleys or
Piedmont.

Literature.] The early monuments of Swifs hterature confiil, as
iifual, of chronicles and lives of faints. Since the relloration of letters,
and the reformation of religion, Swiflerland boafts of many eminent nameSf
lithe reformer Ulric Zwingli, born at Wildhaufen; Herblk, who called
liiinfelf Oporinus, the printer ; Cout-ad Gefner, born at Zurich in 15 16,
whopubHihed an univerfal hbrary, and fome treatifes on natural hiftory ;
lod that noted quack Paracclfus. Among the writers of the lafl century
nay be named Bernouilli, the mathematician, a native of Bafel ; Scheu-
clizer, the natural hillorian ; Haller ; John Gefner, the natural philofo-
pher ; Solomon Gefner, the poet ; Bonnet, Hierzel, and Zimmerman,
pliyficians; Roufleau, and Necker, nat''Xd of Geneva; Lavater, the

I phyfiognomiil ; Euler the mathematician ; and many others.

Education.] The important fubied of education has been little
illullrated by the travellers into Swiflerland ; but as they teilify their fur*
prife at the knowledge generally prevalent among the peafantry, there is
reafon to infer that this ufeful province is not negledcd. There is an
univerfity of fome reputation at Geneva ; and another at Bafel ; with

I colleges at Berne, Zurich, and Lucerne.
Cities and towns.] In enumerating the chief cities and towns of

I Swiiferland, according to the comparative ftandard of population, Bafel
will engage the firil attention, being fuppofed to contain 14,000 fouls.
This venerable city (lands in a pleafant fit nation upon the banks of the

■ Rhine, here broad, deep, and rapid, and fuddenly turning to its long

liiorthern courfe, after a previous weftern diredion *. Bafel crowns both

• Coxe, :, U9>
T«

banki)

'iU];p|J

iyb

SXVISSERLANB.

banks, and is united by a bridge. In the middle ages this city wa»
named Bafula, and apptfars in hillory foon after the age of Chatlemagne'
fhe cathedral is an ancient Gothic edifice, containing the tomb of the
great Erafmus ; and the univerfity haa produced many illuftrious men,

Berne mull claim the next rank to Bafel, poiTefling a population' of
about 13,000*. This city is of fincular neatnefs and beauty, theftreets
being broad and 4ong, and the houies of grey ftone retting on arcades.
There are feveral ftreams and fountains ; and the river Aar almoft fur!
rounds the city. The adjacent country is rich and fertile; and the
profpeft of hills, lawns, wood and water, is bounded at a diftance by
the long chain of the fuperior Alps, rifin^ like fnowy clouds above tte
horizon. Berne contains feveral libraries ^..1! colleftions of natural
Curiofities.

Zurich is the third in rank among the Swifs cities, fituated on a large
lake, amidft a populous and fertile country, which produces abundance
of wine for domeftic confumption. Thie college and plans of edu-
cation are refpedable ; . and t\\e public library contains fome curiont
manufcripts.

Laufanne contains about 9000 inhabitants, and is defervedly celebrated
for the beauty of its fituation, though in fome fpots deep and rugged.
The church is a magnificent Gothic building, having been a cathedral,
while the Pays du Vaud was fubjedl to the houfe of Savoy.

The other chief towns are St. Gal, an ally of SwHIerland, under the
former government ; Mulhaufen, alfo an ally ; Geneva, a city of 2f,oo(>
inhabitants, has been afligncd to France. Fribourg and Scliaffhaufen
contain each about 6000 inhabitants ; Lucerne, Solothurn, and Einfredlen,
about 5000 each. Few of the others exceed 3000.

Edifices.] The chief edifices of Swifl'erland are in the cities; and
there are few examples of magnificent buildings erefted by men ol
wealth or opulence. Inland i>avigation is partly interdi£led by thi
mountainous nature of the country, partly rendered unneceflary by
merous rivers.

Commerce and manufactures.] Commerce and manufaftures d(
not much ftourifli in this inland region. Cattle conttitute the chief pro
duce of the country ; and fome of the cheefe forms an export of luxur)-,
The chief Hnen manufadlures were at St. Gal. Printed cotlons, aRi
watches, alfo form confiderable articles of falc, nor are filk manufftdui
unknown in SwilFerland.

nu.

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.

Climatf and Seafom.—Face of the Country,-—Soil and j1gricuhure.~^Rmn\
— /. akes. — Mountains. — Forejls. — Botany. -»Zoology.--Mmralo^.'
Mineral Hf'atin — Natural Curiofities.

^ ^ . T TPHE climate of SwifTerland is dcfmedM

Climate AND SEASONS.] ^ celebrated as falubrious and delighifuj

From its fouthern pofition confiderable heat might be cxpeded ; buj
this, though fufficicnt to mature the grape, is attempered by the colj
galci from Uic Alf > aiid glacicrii. When the fun defuends bcyoud Moun

• Cuxci it. 3a6.

JarJ

SWISSERLAND.

377

jura, OB a fommer evening, the Alpine fummits long refleft the ruddy
Iplendour, and the lakes for near an hour affume the appearance of bur«
oillied gold. The winter is however in fome parts extremely fevere t
jodthe fummer heat in the deep vales fometimes opprefllve.
Face of the country.] The face of the country is generally rnoun*
tainouSf the moft level parts being the Thurgau, and a part of the canton*
of 6afel> Berne, Zuricti, Schaffhaufen, Soleure, and Fviburg. Even thefe
prefcnt what in fome countries would be called mountains, from 2000 to
2'oo feet above the level of the fea. No country in the world exceeds
Sn'ilTerland in diverfity of appearance. The vaft chain of Alps with enor«
gious precipices, exteafive regions of perpetual fnow, and glaciers that re-
[emble fcas of ice, are contratted by the vineyard, and cultivated field, the
richly wooded brow, and the verdant and tranquil vale, with its happy
(oUages and cryftsd ftream. Agriculture cannot of courfe be carried ta
jwat extent ; but there is no defedl of induftry, and the grain feems fuf-
icient for domettic confumption. ^ Barley is cultivated even to the edge
cf the glaciers ; oats in regions a httle warmer ; rye in thofe ftiU more
kltered ; and fpelt in the warmeil parts. Yet in general the produce
joes not exceed five for one ; and it has been neccifary to fupport
public granaries in cafe of any deficiency. For the coimtry being prin-
cipally dediued by nature for pafturage, the chief dependence of the
Smfs is upon his cattle, and the number being extraordinary, much land
islaid out in winter forage, which might otherwife be produAive of corn *..
A ccifiderable quantity of flax is alio cultivated; and tobacco has been
Ijtfly introduced. The beft vines are thofe of the Pays de Vaud, the
antons of Berne, and Schaffhaufcn, the Valceline, and the Vallais. There
isalfo abundance of fruits, apples, pears, plums, cherries, filberts ; with
Dulberries, peaches, figs, pomegranates, lemons, and other produdts of i|
wrmer climate, in thofe dillritts which border upon Italy. The Vallais
jlfo produces faffron.

But pafturage forms the chief province of the Swifs farm ; and the
meadows are often watered to increafe the produce of hay. In the be-
ginning of i'ummer the cattle are pondudled to the acceflible parts of the
Alps Dy cow-herds, who either account to the proprietor for the pro-
iuce, or agree for a certain fum. Thefe herds alfo fupport many fwine
ffilk the butter-milk and other refufe. Scheuchzcr, in his firll journey
to the Alps, defcribes the numerous preparations of milk, which form
tke varied luxuries of the fwains.

Riveits.] The rivers of SwilTerland are numerous ; and among the
nolbfublime fcenes of this country muflt be claiTed the fources of the
Rhine and Rhone, two of the moil important itreams in £un)pe. If
weellimate their length of courfe through the Swifs dominions, the
Rhine is the moll confiderable ; and is followed by the Aar, the Rcufsy
the Limmat, the Rhone, and the Thur.

The Rhine rifes in the country of the Grifons, from a glacier upon the
(iiinmit of mount Bedus or Badnr, at the head of a valley, about nine
jkaguesin length, called the Rhinewaldf. This mountain and valley
little vifited, even by the Swifs, and the upper part prefents dread-
'uldefertsof ice and fnow, through which the ftream defcends, fome-

mes vifible, fometimes working a hidden track beneath frozen arches.
'be celebrated Sauffure ^, than whom there cannot be a higher autho*

fCuxf, iil. 343. Bourrit, Defcript. dei Cilacten, ten. Ul. p. 6a.
I Vy)i4(8 (tuni let ^\f9», torn. vU. p. 73- 8vo.

T J

rity

278

SWISSERLAND.

rity on thefe topics, informs us that the farther Rhine, which he fun
pofes to be fo called becaufe it is neareil to Germany, arifes from a chai
of mountains at the head of the valley of Difentis, called Crifpalt whil
their higheft point is ftyled Badur : that the middle Rhine proceeds
from the valley of Medelo, an appendage of St. Gothard : and thef
tvro torrents united receive a third from mount Avicula, ' called in French
the Upper Rhine, and in German the Hinter Rhein, for in fome French
maps the names' are inverted*. The height is here about 6180 feet
above the fea. From its fource the Rhine pervades or borders Swiffgr.
land, for about the fpaceof 200 Britifh miles, running N.E. to the lake
of Conilance, whence it bends W. to Bafel ; where it begins its Ion?
northern courfe. °

The Aar arifes in the Alp called Grimfel f , but there is a farther
fource in the environs of that terrible fummit ftyled the Schrekhorn, and
another from the glaciers of Finfteraar : bending its courfe to the N.W.
till it arrive near Arberg, it afterward* turns N.E. receives the Reufs
and the Limmat, and- joins the Rhine oppofite to Waldftiut, after a
courfe of about 150 Britifh miles.

The Reufs, which divides Swifferland into two almoft equal parts
caftern arfd weftern, fprings from the lake of Lucendro J on the N.W.
of St. Gothard. This lake is long and narrow, the upper part being fur-
rounded with black precipices, (potted with eternal fnow ; while the
lower prefents a little verdant plain. From the other fide of St. Go-
thard rifes the Italian ftream of the Tefino, which flows into the Po not
far below Pavia^ The Reufs joins the Aar, after a courfe of about 80
Britifh miles.

The Limmat is compofed of two ftreams, the Lintb, which rifes in the i
S. of the canton of Glarus, and the Mat ^, which fprings in the country
of Sargans. About ten miles after their jun£lion, the Limmat enters the
lake of Zurich, whence it flows about 20 Britifh miles before it join the i
Aar. On the banks of the Limmat commenced that dreadful conflift of
the French agamft the Auflriansand Ruffians, which extended downthofe
of the Reufs, the line of battle being faid to have reached for 90 miles ; I
while for fifteen fucceffive days the whole region feemed enveloped in firt |
and fmoke || .

The Rhone, a noble ftream, can only be regarded as a Swifs river prior I
to its entering the lake of Geneva, after a courfe of about 90 Britilli
miles through that extenfive vale called the Vallais. This river rifes in
mount Furca, the fource being rather warm, and about 5400 feet above
the fea. Yet in truth this fource joins a more confiderable ftream, from |
an extenfive glacier called that of the Rhone, where the majeftic river-god
refides in his palace of arches formed under perpetual ice **.

The Thur, a moderate current, rifes in the S. of the county of Token-
berg, andpurfues a N.W. direftion to the Rhine. Other confiderablel
ftreams are the Sanu, and the Emme, which join the Aar ; the Irm, vi\
commences his majeftic progrefs in the Grifcns ; the Adda, which waters I
the Valteline, and falls into the lake of Conio ; and the Tofs and GlattJ
which join the Rhine.

Lakes.] The lakes of Swifferland are numerous and interefting. Thel

*1Vfr. Coxe, and Bourrit, have confounded the Upper and Lower Rliine. Sctl
Wciffe'* map.

f Coxe, i. 343. t Saaflure, vii. 44. § Wcifs calLt this river tlie Senez,

II New Annual Regifter, 1799, p. 4*7 • Tlii* conflift fprcad iu breadtli'from the Reiifi|
to the Rhine. In Myttenthall, to the call of Schweitx, Suwarrof was defeated.

•• SaufTure, vj. 284, &c.

SWISSERLAND.

279

inoft confiderable are thofe of Condance on the N.E., and Geneva on the
§^. The former is about 45 Britifli miles in length, and in feme places
(( in breadth. This beautiful expanfe of water is by the Germans alfo
jyled the Boden Zee. Like all the other lakes of Swiflerland, it is deeper
ill the fummer than in the winter, owing to the melting of the fnows, and
j{ remarkable for producing large red trout.

The lake of Geneva extends, in the form of a crefcent, about 40 Britifli
miles in length, and nine at its greatell breadth. The beauties of this ■
y^e have been celebrated by Roufleau ; but would be confiderably in-
citafed if it were fprinkled with iflands.

Only a part of the lake Maggiore, or that of Locarno, is fubje£t to
Swiflerland ; but the lake of Lugano forms an extenfive body of water in
that region. The lakes of Neufchatel and Zurich are each about twenty-
jve miles in length, by about four in breadth. That of Lucerne is about
It in length, and the breadth no where above three. Next to thefe are
the lakes of Thun and Brientz ; of Joux and Roufs, on the French con*
fines; the lakes of Morat and-Bienne, of Sempach, Zug, Wallenftadt,
and others of inferior note.

Mountains.] The mountains of Swiflerland are the mod celebrated in
Europe, and are fuppofed to yield in height to none, except thofe of
South America, which derive their advantage from (landing on an elevated
plain. In a general point of view the Alps extend, in a kind of femi-
circular form, from the gulph of Genoa through Swiiferland, which con-
tains their centre and highefr parts ; and terminate in the Carnic Alps on
the N. of the Adriatic lea. This grand chain of mountains has, in ancient
lodmodertL times, been divided into different portions, known by di(tin6l
appellations. The maritime Alps are thofe which arife from the gulph
of Genoa. Mount Genevre, whence fprings the river DurancC) was an-
ciently named the Alpis Cottia, from Cottius, a prince who refided at
Suza. Farther to the N. were the Alpes Graiae, now the little St. Ber-
nard. The Alpes Penninae confill;d of the great St. Bernard, Mont
51anc, and the grand chain extending on the S. of the Rhone to the
N. of modem Piedmont : the eaftern part being alfo ftyled the Lepon-
tine Alps, from a people who inhabited that region which gives origin
to the Rhone and Tefino. The Rhxtian Alps extended through the
Grifons and Tyrol, terminating in the Carnic, or Julian Alps. That
chain which pervades Swiflerland, from mount Santez in the S.W. to-
wards the fources of the Irm on the N.E. was known by the appella-
tion of the Helvetian Alps. Some writers admit of more minute divi-
lions, as the Tridentine Alps above Trent ; and the Noric Alps above
the fource of the river Tagliamento. The extent of this vaft courfe of
mountains may be computed at about 550 Britifli miles.

The central part of this magnificent chain may be confidered as divided
into two ridges, running aln' jH parallel from the fouth-wefl to the north-
eaft. The firfl ridge is that of the Helvetian Alps, of which the moft con-
fpicuous fummits are the Gemmi or Guemmi, the Schelenhocn* the Blum-
lis, the Giefliorn, the Jungfrau or Virginhorn, the Eiger, the tremendous
Schreckhorn, or peak of horror, the Grimfel, the Furca ; the extenfive
and fomewhat devious ridges of mount St. Gothard, the Badur, and the
glaciers to the north of the farther Rhine. Of this chain the St. Gothard
Has been long confidered as one of the principal funtmits, becaufe impor-
tant rivers run from its vicinity in every dire£lion j but this circumllance
cannot be admitted to argue for its fuperior height^ after the accurate
obfervations of Sauffure ; and rivers often fpring rrom an inconlulerable
elevation, paifing in the bottoms between high mountaiai. The Jungfrau

T 4 teems

Ur-. I

aSo

SWISSERLAND.

feems the moft elevated mountain of this chain ; and to the weft are feveral
iuaccefllble peaks. Next in elevation feem to be the Eiger and the
Schreckhorn *. The fummits coniilt of granite, and the fides difclofc
red flate, and calcareous maffes. In geperal the granite appears in the
fouth, and the calcareous fuperpofitions on the north. To the fouth are
large deferts and glaciers; and on the north is the romantic lake of Kan.
del Steig, whence there is faid to have been a paffage to Lauterbrim
amidft Angular glaciers, fometimes refembling magical towns of irj
vrith pilaflrcs, pyramids, columns, and obeliucs, refled^ing to the fun
the moft brilliant hues of the fineit gems.

The fouthern chain of the central Alps rather belongs to the north
of Italy than to Swiflerland. It extends from mount Blanc and fome
eminences farther t» the weft, and embraces the great St. Bernard, the
Weifch, moulit Cervin, and mount Rofa. Pafling to the north of the
lakes of Locarno and Como, under the names of Vogelberg, St. Bernar.
dine, Albula, Bernini, &c. it ftretches into Tyrol, terminating in the
Brunner, or Rhxtian Alps on the S. of the Irm, This fecond chain has
been ably ilhiftrated by Sauflufe, who vifited the fununit of mount Blanc
the greateft elevation on the ancient continent, being 15,662 feet above
the level of the fea. In his laft journey Sauflure alfo vifited mount Rofa,
which yields only fixty feet in height to mount Blanc, being about mid.
way between great St. Bernard and the lake of Locarno, where our maps
place a non-cxiftence called mount Moro, to the |4. of Macugnaga, in the
vale of Anzafca. Yet fome entertain doubts whether the tremendous,
and hitherto inacceflible, heights of the northern chain do not exceed
thofe meafured by Sc^ulTure, and they certainly prefent fufficient ohjefts
for the ambition of future travellers.

It was rcferved for this age of enterprize to difclofe the fecret wonders
of the fuperior Alps. The enormous ridges clothed with a depth of per.
petual Inow, often crowned with ftiarp obeliiks of granite ftyled by the
Swifs horns or needles ; the dreadful chafms of fome thoufand feet in per-
pendicular height, over which the dauntlefs traveller fometimes ftands, on
a fhelf of frozen fnow ; the glaciers, or feas of ice, fometimes extending
thirty or forty miles in length, the facred fllence of the fcenes before
iinvifited, except by the chamois and goat of the rocks ; the clouds, and
fometimes the thunder-ilorm, pafling at a great diftance below j the ex-
tenfive profpedta, which reduce kingdoms as it were to a map J the pure
elafticity of the air, exciting a kind of incorporeal fenfatiou } arc all novel-
ties in the hiftory of human adventure.

With regard to the conftitution of thefe grand chains, we learn from
Sauffure that the higheft fummits confift of a large-grained white granite;
and fometimes hornblende, fchorl, garnets, or pyrites, are interfperfed.
Beneath, and incumbent on the granite, efpeciully towards the N. appear
large maffes of flate, which are followed by exterior chains of high
calcareous mountains, and on the foutli by others of talOous rocks.'

Botany. 3 Swifferland from its fouthern climature and its elevated
fituation, may be cunfidered with regard to its botany as an epitome of
all Europe. From its low funny valleys that open upon the Italian fron>
tier, to the higher alps covered with glaciers and eternal fnow, the travel-

* SaufTiire, vol. vil. p. 1 9-1, inrurnis us that mount Talis, to the north of mount Fiirra,
{5 10,8 IN feet ftiiove tlm fea; and that the Schreckhorn, and the Finflcraar, fouth of the
^chrei-kliorii, ai-e at leuft 2400 feet higher. If fo, thefe fummits are ahout 13,918 I'rct,
while mount Blanc iit 14,700 French feet; by the mcafarcmei\^ of Sir George Shurlibo-
iruuqh I.Sjftfia feet Hnglifli. General PfeiFer, who made a noted n>odel of tl)e northtm
Ail's, cuin|)ute« tlic; hei|;ht of St. (joUiud above t'ue fea at 907 i feet, (Coxe, i. 030).

6 \xi{

SWISSERLAND.

281

Iff may experience in fucceflion the climates of Lapland, Germany, France,
jnd Italy* Of maritime plants, on account of its inland iituation, it pof-
felfes none ; and many of thofe which adorn and perfume the arid trafts
(f heath in Spain and Portugal are equally wanting. The fwamps of
Holland alfo pofTefs many that are llrangers to SwilFerland ; but thofe
fpecics that delight io the pure invigorating air of the mountains, that
jffi life and fragrance from the dafhing torrent, that bend over the
margin of the transparent lake, and luxuriate in the (lieltered recefles of
tlie overhanging rock, flouriih here in a profufion and glow of beauty
tliat cannot be conceived by the ihhabitant of lowland countries. '

The fpiry pinnacles of rock that rear themfelves from among the per-
petual fnows that overfpread the fummits of the higher Alps, are almoft
ihoUy dellitute of vegetation ; a few of the cruilaceous lichens, and
lere and there a tuft of Silcne acaulis, and faxifraga nivalis, and ilellaris,
(omprifc the whole of their fcanty flora.

From the very edge of the fnow commences a zone of rocky paflurage,
lie native domain of the bounding chamois, but encroached upon for a
few weeks in the height of fummer by the fheep ; covered with a {hort
larren turf, except where the rills, trickling through, give birth to a
more luxuriant vegetation : the efFeA of the cold is here ftrikingly dif-
daycd, not merely in the plants being all of them truly Alpine, but from
ikir being flirunk and condenfed into fuch minute fpecimens as to require
jclofe infpeftion to be aware of their vaft variety.
Still farther from the fummits the pailuragc becomes more abundant
aid aeceflible to the cattle for about forty days ut midfummer ; a few of
tk hardier fhrubs begin to make their appearance, and the turf here
alTumes tliat truly enamelled appearance that is fo charaAcriftic of Swilfer-
kiid. In the alpine valleys, and along the courie of the torrents, vegeta-
tion aflTii mesa more ftately appearance ; the juniper, the faviiie, the iione^
pine, and alder, broken by nature into irregular thickets, diverfify the
I'cene ; the cafcades are overhung by bowers of the alpine rofe ; in the
Iclffts of the rock are tufts of iaxifrages and auricula, and the fpongy
liiUucks are eminently refplendent with the ferruginous rhododendron,
and trailing azalea.
Below all thefe, on the declivities of the mountains, commence the
I forefts of larch, of pine, and fir, intermixed h?re and there with the yew,
I the mountain afh, and the birch.

Among thefe upper woodlands are the richeil meadows of SwiiTerland,
I luxuriant with grafs and clover, and ornamented with the yellow gent!!, i,
the white hellebore, the a£ixa, the alpine anemonie, and innumerable oihe-
mountain plants.

Where the lir woods ceafe, the fubalpine regions begin, diverfified with
I meadows and corn fields, and forells of deciduous trees. The oak, the
I elm, the beech, the afli, the lime, and the hornbeam, are the lioll pre-
halent, and the borders of the ftreams are (haded by poplars and willows.
■The plants are chiefly thofe which occur in the north and midland parts
lof France and Germany.

I The loweil and warmed fituations in SwiflTerland are the plains and
jbroad valleys of Geneva, of Bafel, of the Pays de Vaud, of the Valteline,
lind La Vallais ; in thefe we meet with numerous vineyards, and the treea
land plants pf the fouth of France and Italy. The walnut, the cliefnut,
Ttlic fig, the pornegranate, the bay, and laurel, and the Cornelian cherry,
pre the moft chara£leriftic among the trees : the lavender, hyflgp, fraxi-
rella, feveral kinds of ciftus, and the peony, are fome of the chief of the
berb^ceous plants and lowe^ flirubs, The valleys that open towardi

Italy

\m4

1 1

tSz

SWISSERLAND.

Italy contain^ befides, a few plants that arc not found in the reft of ^
Swiflerland ; fuch as the lilac, the caper-bufli, the almond, and, amon
the fiifures of the rocks, the Indian fig, and American aloe. ^

Zoology.] The horfes of Swifferland are efteemed for vigour and
fpirit ; and the cattle attain great fize. Among the animals peculiar
to the Alps may be firft named the ibex, or rock geat. This animal
refembles the common goat ; but the horns of the male are extremulv
long and thick. It is more common on the Italian than on the Swift
Alps. The hair is long, and afli coloured, with a black lift aloncr the
back. The ibex will mount a perpendicular rock of fifteen feet, at three
fprings, bounding like an.clallic body ftruck againft a hard fubilance
In the day he feeks the higUeft fummits, but m the night the nearell
woods, browfing on aromatic plants and dwarf birch, and in the winter on
lichens.

Another Angular animal is the chamois, which is commonly feen in i
herds of twenty or thirty, with a centinel who alarms them by a (hrill cry.
The colour is yellowifh brown ; but they fometimes occur fpeckled
The food is the lichen, with flioots of pine or fir. The marmot is coii,mon
in the Swiis mountains. In fummer they feed on alpine plants, and live
in focieties, digging dwellings in the ground for fummer, and others for i
winter. About the beginning of OAober, having provided hay, they
retreat to their holes, where they remain torpid till the fprinir. fhc ''>
fkin of this little animal is ufed for furs. The marmot may Lc tamed I
and fhews confiderablc docility. The fize is between that of the rabbit I
and the hare. Among alpine birds may be named the vulture, called alfo
the golden or bearded vulture. It inhabits the higheft alps, forming its i
neft m inacccflible rocks, and preying on the chamois, white hare, mar.
mot, and fometimes on kids and lambs. The great eagle, ablurdly called
golden, is alfo feen.

Mineralogy.] The mineralogy of this interefting coimtry is not fo
important as we might be led to infer from its mountainous nature.
Some of the ftrcams wafh down particli's of gold*. Mines of filver are
mentioned, but the places are not fpccifiod. Copper and lead are alfo
found : but the chief^mincs arc thofe of iron, jn the country of Sargans,
In the canton of Berne there arc valuable quarries of rock fait f : and it
is faid that coal and native fulphur arc not urtknown. But the grand
ilores of minerals are in Piedmont and the fouthern lides of the .-Alps.
Rock cryftal forms perhaps the chief export of Swifferland, being fume.
times found in fuch large pieces as to weigh (even or eight hundred
weight. The calcareous parts of the Alps often prefcnt beautiful
maroles ; and good fiates arc not uncommon. As to granite and por.
phyry, the country rray be faid to confill of them. Among the Alps]
are alfo found fcrpontines, afbeftos, with jafpcrs, agates, and various pe>
trifa£lions. Among the mineralogic curiofitico may be named the adu-
laria, or glaffy felipar, on the mountains of Adula, and the trcmolite,
fo called from mount Trcmola, near St. Gothard. I

Medical wateus.] Of medical waters, the moll remarkable artj
thofe of Leuk. To the S.E. are the baths of Alvenew, which are [
fulphureous, and refemble Harrowgatc water.

Natural curio.sitie.s.] To enumerate the natural curiofities of I
Swiflerland would be ' defcribe the country. The Alps^ the glacien,!

* Riifching, xiv. 1 1 .

t Krjflvr, i. \*6f fap that the (alt wurk* arc at Ovvieur, Roclte, and Fancr, in ihr Ujil
4e Vaud. f

the

SWISSERLAND.

283

precipices, the defcending torrents, the fources of the rivers, the
[lautiful lakes and catarads, are all natural curiolities of the greateft
jjjjularity and moft fublime defcription. Of late the glaciers have at-
tiafted particular attention ; but thofe feas of ice, interfeAed with
miinerous deep fiflures, owing to fudden cracks, which refound like
liunder, muft yield in fublimity to the ftupendous fummits clothed with
ice and ihow, the latter often defcending in what are called avalanches, or
pfodigious balls, which, gathering as they roll, fometimes overwhelm
ttavellers, and even villages. Nay, the mountains themfelves will fome-
tiines burft, and overwhelm whole towns, as happened in the memorable
loiance of Pleurs, near Chiavana, in which thoufands periHied, and not a
«llige of a building was left : nor are recent inftances, though lefs tre-
ueiidoiis, wholly unknown. The vaft refervoira of ice and fnow give
Ijltth to many important rivers, whofe fources deeply '.niereft curiolity.
.\j an example, the account which Bourrit gives of that of the Rhone
jav be fcleAed. " At length we perceived through the trees a moun-
laiiiof ice, as fi)lendid as the fun, and flafliing a fnnilar light on the en-
tiions. This firlt afpeft of the glacier of the Rhone iulpired us with
,reat expeftatioii. A moment afterwards this enormous mafs of ice
laving difappeared beiiiiid thick pines, it foon after met our fight
lietween two vail blocks of rock, which formed a kind of portico. Sur-
prifcd at the magnificence of this fpeftacle, and at its admirable con-
[fafts, we beheld it with rapture. At length we reached this beau-
tiful portico, beyond which we wore to difcover all the glacier.
We arrived : at this fight one would fuppofe onefelf in another
ifcfld, fo much is the imagination imprefTed with the nature and immen-
Ctvof the objefts. To form an idea of this fupcrb fpeftaclc, figure in
roui' mind a fcaffolding of tmufparent ice, filling a fpace of two miles,
nllnfj to the clouds, and darting flafhes of light like the fun. Nor were
the levernl parts lefs magnificent and fiirpriling. One might fee as it
OTre the Ureeti^ and buildings of a city, erefted in the form of an am-
phitheatre, and erabelli(hed with pieces of water, cafcades, iiiid tor-
rents. The eft'eds were as prodigious as the immenlity and tlie height ;
the molt beautiful azure, the moil fplcndid white, the regular appear-
ance of a thoufand pyramids of ice, are more eafy to be imagined
than defcribed. Such is t)»e afpedt of the glacier of the Rhone,
reared by nature on a plan which (he alone can execute : we admire
the majeitic courfe of a river, without fufpefting that what gives it birth
and maintains its waters may bo (lill more majcllic and magnificent."

On the north of Swid'erland the Rhine, near the village of Neuhaufcn,
dtfci'nds in a cataract of 40 feet amidll black and horrid rocks. Among
the milder charms of il-e cotmtry may be named the lakes ; and the fmaH
lake of Kandtl Steig bears at one extremity the charms of fummer,
while tlie other prefents the glaciers ami pomp ftf winter. Numerous
rills, which dofcoiid from the nuumtains, often fill in cnltade.s of groat
beauty, among which tli;it of Staubbach is computed at 900 feet, over a
rock as perpendicular as a wall *.

VALAIS.

The Vdlais now forms a little indoj)endent ropublic. It \* a rich val-
ky watered by the Rhone, about 85 miles in length, and containing

Dourrii, iili 16<i.

•bout

284

GERMAN STATES.

about 90,000 inhabitants. The chief town is Sion, formerly the feat of
the bifliop. On the fouth of the valley is mount Simplqn, where a noble
road h^9 been condudted from France into Italy.

GERMAN STATES.
CHAPTER I.

. IIISTOIUCAL GKOGRAFHY.

Extent.— -Boundaries. — Original Population.— Progre/Jive Geography.— ■JHlf.
torical Epochs. — Antiquities. — Religion. — Population. — ylrmy. — Navy.-^
L.anguage.— 'Literature. — Rotils.—-Face of the Country."— Rivers,—
L akes. — Mountains. —^Forejts. --—Botany.-— Zoology . —Mineralogy. — .
Mineral Heaters. — Natural Curiofities.

IN defcribing an extenfive country, fubdivided into many dates, it be-
comes indifpenfable to give a general idea of the whole, before the
refpeftive territories are dehneated. The geography of Germany is the
moil perplexed of any region on the globe, the great divifions, or circles,
being now interwoven, and ahnoil antiquated, while no modern and more
rational diilribution has yet appeared. Thi« obfcrvation even extends to
the inferior dates.

Extent.] Germany, confidered in its modern limits, extends about
6co Britifli miles in length, from the ifle of Rugen in the north to the
fouthern limits of the circle of Audria. The modern breadth, from the
Rhine to thp eadcrn boundary of Silefia, is about 500 Britifti miles :
anciently the breadth extended beyond the Villula, about 200 miles more
to the cad.

OiiioiNAL POPULATION.]) This country appears to have been full cf
extenfive foreds, even in the Roman period ; and of courfe to have been
in many parts thinly peopled, yet tiiere are faint indications that the
Cimbri, or |nu(\ern Celts, poifelfcd feveral trads in the fouth, as they
certainly occupied a large portion of the N.W. The N.E. of Germany
nvas held by the Finnifh nations ; but both thefe and the Cimbri were
obliged to yield to the invaiion of the Scythians or Goths who migrated
vredward from their original feats on the Euxine, and had planted colonies
in Germany, Britain, Gaul, and Spain, long before the Roman interference
in the affairs of thofe co utrit-H.

Progressive oeocuapiiy.] The progreflive geography of Ger.
many, though an intereding topic, has never been ably illuftrated.
It appears that the central parts of Germany were little known tu
the ancient*. The fouthern and wedem didrids, as bordering on the
Roman empire, hud be-en partlr.lly explored. Roman (hips had navi*

Sated the Baltic, and the Roman arms had penetrated nearly in a
ircdion due eaU, to the neared circuit of the Elbe near Magde*
burg, in which quarter the trophies of Drufut were erected. On
the S. the Sudetic mountains feem to bound the knowledge of the an<
cients ; while through the centre of Germany, from the Rhine to the
Vidub) extended the vad Hcrcinian fored.
The interior of this (ountry remained unexplored till the are of

Cliark-

-■^

IPiiae nl'^.

the age of

t-t

r I' K K 1'. Y

,'.

G-£I'!VIA-f<y,

I I

■I i f

1 1 ;^ — s~1

V. A -f ■■■■■■ """ ■<

ft '" it ! ' ''■

'^'

IPaoe

pf -

Chai
peri(
H
alrea
the.

GERMAN STATES.

f%f

Charlemagne,
period.

atid the northetn parts for fome centuries after that

HisTonrcAL epochs] Some of the grand hiftorical epochs have
already been mentioned, in defcribing thofe large portions of Germany, ■*
the Auilrian and Frufiian dominions ; and fome of the others may be
briefly hinted in the account of the refpe£live ftates. Suffice it here to
ineBtion: i. The ancient period, chiefly refting on the account ofth«
Roman and Francic hiftorians. a. The middle period. In the end of
the eighth century, Charlemagne, having fubdued the Saxons and other
parts of Germany and Italy, was in the year 800 proclaimed emperor of
t)ie Weft. His fucceffor Louis le Debonnaire held the empire with
France ; biit his fon Lothaire I. was reftrided to Germany. After
many inteftine commotions Henry Duke of Saxony was chofen emperor
in 918, and this line failing 1024, was followed by that of Franconia.
In the twelfth century arofe the faAions of the Guelphs and Gibelines,
ai(d, after lon^ contefts, , the fc^ptre was at length alTigned to the houfe
of Auftria in 1 273 ; and after fome deviations continued to remain in
that family. 3. The modem period, which may be traced from Charles V. ;
or from his grandfather Maximilian.
Antiquities.] The antiquities of Germany confift chiefly of a few
Roman remains in the S. and W. It would be endlefs to enumerate the
churches founded by Charlemagne ; or the numerous caftles, ereSed by
powerful princes and barons.

Religion.] The religion of the greater part of Germany may be
pronounced to be the Reformed, flril introduced into Saxony by Lather.
Yet the fouth continues firmly attached to the Roman Catholic faith,
now chiefly fupportedby thehoufeof Auftria.

Government.] The government k that of an ariftocracy, whicfi
clefts a monarch, who may be of any family. Catholic, Lutheran, or
Calvinitt To confider the conftitution at length, which has been called
bya German writer <*a con fufion fupported by providence," would be
fbreien to the nature of this woik. It has been recently overturned
by the fword of Bonaparte.

Population, &c.] The population of Germany in general is com>
puted at little more than 25,000,000. It was fuppofed that the empire
could, if united, fend forth a contingent army of 400,000 ; but fuch
calculations are vifionary in the prefent ftate of affairs. The revenues,

C'itical importance and relations, are now detached, and have already
n in a great part confidered under the articles of Pruflia and Auftria.
The manners, cuftoms, and dialects vary according to the different ftates.
The Saxon is accounted the pureft and moft claffical idiom of the
German tongue; and the fouthern diale£ts of Suabia, Bavaria, and
Auftria, the moft uncouth. The literature will beft be confidered under
nch ftate ; to ityle an author a German, being almoft as vague as to
call him an European, fo diftinft are the feveral ftates and the fhades of
civilization.

It will be remembered that in the dcfcriptions of the Auftrian and
Pruflian dominions are contained many of the eaftern provinces of Germany.
The part which remains is the weftern half, naturally divided into two
portions by the river Mayn. The remaining objefts to be generally confi-
dered in this weftern portion are chiefly the afpe£^ of the country, the
rivers, lakes, mountains, and forefts, with the botany and zoology :
othf topics being more appropriated to each ftitc.

Face of the country.] To the north of the Mayn, Germany chiefly
(rcfcats wide Tandy plains, whivk feem us if they had been, in the firft

t 8ge«

386

GERMAN STATES.

ages of the world, overwhelmed by the fea. A few hills begin to anne
in the neighbourhood of Minden ; and in the foiith of the Hanoveri^'^
dominions arife the moft northern mountains of Germany, thofe of
Block(berg, and others in the Hartz. To the S.W. are the mountains of
Heffia, and others, extending towards the Rhine : while on the eaft the
rich and variegated country of Saxony, one of the moft beautiful and
fertile in the empire, extends to the fouthern limits of the mountains of
£rzgeberg» abundant in mines and fingular fofiils.

Tne regions to the fouth of the Mayn may be regarded as rather
mountainous.

Rivers. ] Both portions are watered by numerous and important rivers.
In the north the Elbe is the moft diftinguifhed ftream, rifmg in the Sudetic
mountains of Sileiia : and after runnmg fouth for about 50 miles, it
fuddenly affumes its deftination of N. W., receives the Bohemian Mulda
and' Eger, the Mulda and Sala of Saxony, and the large river Havel
from the eaft, and enters the fea netir Cuxhaven, after a comparative
courfe of more than 500 Britiih miles. The chief cities on the banks of
the Elbe are Drefden, Meiffen, Wittenberg, Magdeburg, from which ii
runs almoft a folitary ftream to Hamburg. The tide is perceived to the
height of 22 miles ; and, when raifed by the north wind, middle fized
veifels may arrive at Hamburg, but they are in general obliged to anchor
a mile below the city *.

Not far to the weft is the mouth of the Wefer, which firft receives
that name when its two fources, the Werra and the Fulda, join near
Munden, in the principality of Calenburg, about i6Briti(h miles S.W.
of Gottingen. The Werra fprings in the principality of Hildburg.
haufen ; and the Fulda in the territories of the biihopric fo called ; the
former having the longeft courfe, and being juftly confidered as the chief
fource of the Wefer, which thus flows about 270 Britifli miles. The
principal towns on this river are Bevern, Minden, and Bremen. The
chief tributary ftream is the Aller, from the duchy of Brunfwick. The
inundations of the Wefer are terrible, the adjacent towns and villages
feeming to form iflands in the fea : hence the (hores are eileemed un.
healthy.

The fources and mouths of the Rhine have been already defcribed.
This noble river forms the grand ancient barrier between France and Ger-
many; and its courfe may oe computed at about 600 Britifli miles. On
the German fide it is deverfified with mountains and rocks ; but from
Bafel to Spire the fliores are flat and uninterefting f . Near Mentz they
become rich, variegated, and grand ; and on the confluence with the
Mayn the waters are diftinguifhable for many leagues. The Rhinegau
is not only celebrated for its wines, but for the romantic appearance of the
country, the river running through wild rocks crowned with maieftic
caftles. Hence as far as Bonn tne (hores abound with beautiful and
ftriking objeAa, the Rhine not feeming to aftume his grandeur till after
his Jun£lion with the Mayne.

In the fouthern part of Germany the moft important river is the Da-
nube, which according to the common opinion rifes near the little tovrn of I
Donaufchinffen in Suabia, but fome place the fources a little farther to
the north. This noble river becomes navigable a little above Ulm, where
it receives the Iler. The next tributary ftreim of confequence is the
IiMhf which comes from Tyrol, a ftream diftinguiihed in the feat

* Ittfrhing, ?i. 16.

t Gtrdoor's Viswi qn i^he Rhine.
ii

GERMAN STATES.

287

of the recent war ; as is the Ifer, proceeding from Upper Bavaria.
Tiie Danube runs about 250 miles through this part of Gem any, paf-
{jff by Ulm, Ratifton, and Paflau. To Orfova it may be confidered
,5 an Aultrian river for about 550 miles ; thence it is Turkiihfor 480 •
totheEuxine.

The Necker is a tributary ftream of the Rhine, rifmg in the Black
foreftj not far from the Danube, and running a piAurefque courfe of
ibout I f o Britifli miles through a country variegated with vineyards.
Jlnother and grander tributary ftream of the Rhine fprings from the lake
ofFichtelSee, on the mountain of Fichtelberg,efteemed among the moft
(levated parts of Germany, as it gives fource to four rivers tuning in
nrious direftions. This fource is called the White Mayn ; while another
[ource, the Red Mayn, fo called from the red clay through which it flows,
itfes near Haernleinfreuth, in the principality of Bareuth. The Mayn,
jfter receiving the Rednitz and other conftderable ftreams, joins the
Uliiiie to the S. of Mentz. The Mayn is a muddy ftream, but abounds
rth trout, carp, and other fifh. After pervading the rich bifhopricks of
Bamberg and Wurtzburg, and fome territories of the fee of Mentz, it
nters the walls of Frankfort, formerly a city of celebrated trade ; and
las recently acquired frefti importance from being confideredby German
I politicians as a natural boundary between the power of Pruffia in the N.
I of Germany, and that of Auftria in the S.

Lakes.] To the north of the Matyn Germany prefents few lakes, the
irgeft being in the duchy of Mecklenburgh, where the lake of Plau ex-
ends under various names about 25 Britifti miles in length, by 6 in
I breadth. In the more louthern and Alpine regions, the Boden See, or
lake of Conftance, is the moft diftingui(hed expanfe of water, already de-
fcribed under Swiflerland. N«xt is the Chiem See in Upper Bavaria,
about 14 Britifh miles in length by 5 in breadth, fometimes largely ftylcd
tbefeaef Bavaria. That circle, like moft mountainous countries, alfo
I contains many other lakes of fmaller account.

Mountains.] The moft northern mountains in Germany are thofe
I of the Hartz, called the Brocken or Blockfberg*. Thefe mountains
rife in the form of an amphitheatre, the hieheft being what is called the

Ct Blockfberg. The river life rifes wom the bottom ; and other
ms fpring from the hills to the N. W. and to the E., the height of
[ibegreat Brocken is 3021 feet ; and of the little Brocken 2713.

In Weitphalia there are fome hills near Minden ; and in the duchy of
Itkefame name, bordering on Heffia, are the mountains of Winterberg,
lAftenberg, Schlofsberg, and others f. The Heflian territories may be
litgarded as generally mountainous, efpecially towards the north. Thence
Is. W. towards the Rhine are feveral conftderable hills, among which
loay be mentioned thofe in the weft of Wetterau, and the feven hills near
Itbe Rhine almoft oppofite to Andernach ; with the ridge of Heyrich
Ithich proteAs the vines of Rhinegau. To the caft of Frankfort on the
iMayn are the hilly foreft of Speflart, with the metalhc heights of Fulda
md Henneberg.

I But the moft celebrated mountains, in that part of Germany which
s to the N. of the Mayn, are the Erzgeberg, or Metallic Mountains,
Uch rife to the N. £. of the Fichtelberg, running between Bohenoia
md Saxony, but fupplying both countries with filver, tin, and other
ktala. The Erzgeberg are not of remarkable height, vet contain much
DJte like thole of the Hertz and Heflia ; with gneifs, in which moft

*Bufchui^, K,iH'

t Rtilbeck, viii, B, 9.

\M It]

^im

aSS

GERMAN STATES.

of Saxon and Bohemian mines are found. Granular limeftone alf
appears ; and in Upper Lufatia an entire mountain is found of filice '
fchiftus, while Flinzberg conlifts almoft entirely of milk-white quart °** i
Mifnia contains mountains of pitchftone, and ftrata of hornblende ^T '
Voigtland, near Averbach, appears the famous topaz rock, confiftinff f
pale topazes in hard lithomarga. Micaceous fchiftus and flate alfo for" I
portions of the Saxon mountains ; with large mafles pf trap and bafalt
Thofe of Heffia and the Hertz prefent nearly the fame fubttances • and
a fummit of the Meifner confifts of bafalt retting on coal. The metal I
will be coniidered in the account of each country. ]

Among the German mountains to the S. of the Mayn may firft be]
named the Bergftrafs, a ridge pafllng from near Manheim to the vicinity I
of Frankfort. On the eaft are the high hills of Odenwald. Farther tol
the S. are the mountains of Wurtemburg, rifmg both on the E. and W I
of that extenfive duchy. On the W. the mountains form a continuation I
of thofe of the Black Foreft, the mount Abnoba of Tacitus, whence he!
juftly derives the fource of the Danube ; and the Helvetian foreft ofl
Ptolemy. The mountains of the Black Foreft, in German Schwartzwald I
extend from near Neuenburg, in the territories of Wurtcmbur<T fouth tol
the four foreft towns on the Rhine f . The fouthern part is called the
High, and the northern the Lower foreft ; the length being about So and
the bi-eadth io Britifh miles. The eaftern part, as ufual, prefents a gral
dual elevation , while the weftern {hews precipitous fumm'is to theinhabiJ
tants of Baden and Alface. The appellation feems to arifo from the thick
dark forefts with which the afcents are clothed. A branch of the Black
Mountains fpreads E. from near Sulz on the Necker towards the countn
of CBtingen, being more than 60 miles in length. Thi» chain is called
the Alb, and fometimes the Suabian Alps. The conilituent parts oi
thefe extenfive ridges have been little detailed ; but a great part is calca]
reous, as they fupply excellent marbles. Near Frudenftadt in the Blac^
Mountains are mines of filvcr and copper. i

The fouth-eaft of this portion of Germany is bounded by the higJ
mountains of Bavaria and Salzia, or Salzburg ; being branches or contij
nuations of the Swifs or Tyrolefe Alps, but without general appellationsj
Thofe bordering on Tyrol are granite ; thence, as ufual, argillaceous an^
calcareous in the lower parts J. Large pieces of grafs-grccn quartz an
found, ftudded with red tranfpareut garnets, and at Munich are workei
into elegant fnufF-boxes, The Alps of Salzburg exceed in height th
Carpathian chain, or the Pyrenees, and only yield to the Swifs and Tyi
rolefe Alps, the higheft fummits being computed at more than io,ocofe{
above the fea.

Forests.] Confiderable remains yet exift of the ancient forefts wliic
pervaded Germany. The German word wald^ correfponding with the oil
Englifli wealeii denotes a foreft. The chief of thefe appear always to ha«
extended along the middle regions of Germany, from the N.W. toward
the S.E. The Dromling-wald is to the north of Magdeburgh ; buttlj
SoUinge-wald, the woody mountain- of Hartz, the Luttcn-wald, the wij
foreft of Thuringia, may be faid to be conneded with the ancient forel
of Silefia, hence extending far to the E. through the centre of Poland aa
Kuffia. More to the fouth, in this part of Germany, are the Spcffaj
foreft, and others. In the portion fouth of the Mayn, the vail Blad
Forell, and the woods along the Alb, are continued by pthcrs in vario^
parts of Ba\'aria. In general the palUon among the grandees for thech

• Kirwn, Geol. Eff. 174. J"6. t Bufching, viiL 481. t Fcxbour's Tounii luly,

GERMAN STATES.

289

tveftonc alio'
i of filiceous I
ite quartz*,
iblende. In '<
confiftingof
ate alfo form
p andbafalt.1
•ilances ; and I
The metal J

may firft be I
to the Yicinity]
I. Farther to
lie E. andwj
a contbiiationl
:u8, whence he]
'etiau foreftof
Schwart7.\vald,|
tiburn; fouth to?
t is called the
g about So, and
prefents a graJ
ts to the inhabij
; fron\ the thicli
:h of the Black
Mrds the countr^
> chain is called
llitucnt parts ol
tt part is calcaj
adt in the Black

]L'd by the higB

■anches or conti|

•ral appellation*

argillaceous xai

Tccn quartz art

lich are workei

in height th

Swifs and Ty

:han io,ocofe<

tnt forefts wliic
jling with the oil
Lr always to hi
t N.W. toward
Iburgh; bulth
li-wald, the m
le ancient forefl
\e of Poland all
[are iheSpefffl
the vail Bl»^
r)thc"s ill vario
lees for the ch

iToutwhal)')

ion.

(if the wild boar, and other pleafui-es of hunting, has contributed greatly*
totlie preservation of the forefts.

Botany^.] As Spain is dillinguiihed by its groves of cork trees and ilex»
gd Scandinavia by its fir woods, fo is Germany remarkable for its deep
giilalmolt impenetrable forefts of oak: hot indeed that this is the inva>
riiblecharaderillic of the country, for in an empire of fuch great extent j
jidof fo variM a furface, it mull needs happen that the native vegetable
uodutlions on the fliore of the Gernuin ocean (hould differ Confiderably
jfointhofe in the Black Foreft, or on the frontiers of Tyrol. There isj
lowever, on the whole, more uniformity than might be expedled ; and
itauiih perhaps few plants are abfolutely peAliar to Germany, yet the
jlundance of .fome fpecies, and the abfence of others, forms a Itriking
(iiturein the natural hiftory of the empire.

To begin with the hedges and roadfidcs, as thefe are fituations that im*
«(,jon a traveller at leall the firft, and probably the moft durable idea
i\k flora of a country. It will be remarked, that the lilac and fyringa*
lAich with us fcarcely ever ft.ray beyond the bounds of the (hrubbery,
K(bj' no means of unfrcquent occurrence in the hedges of the north of
Gtrmany ; the cornel, the fwect briar and cinnamon rofe, are alfo com-
Ot the fmaller plants the principal are leffer honeywort, wintei?
, yellow undleaft ftar of Bethlehem, evening primrofc, andcoronilla

■ una.

The pafturcs and edges of woods afford feveral kinds of iris and gentian :
luumberof bulbous rooted plants, particularly fnowflake, narciffus, and
liifodil : two kinds of hyacinth, the mufcari and racemofus, and branched

■ ifpliodel.

The vegetables of the woods and groves may be divided into the
Jbbby and herbaceous : to tiie firft belong, befides the common foreft
\m and fhrubs of England, branched elder ; Daphne cneorum, Mefpihis
JGermaiiica, pendent rofe ; bladder fenna and laburnum. Of the latter,
Itliemoft worth notice are millet grafs, afclepias vincetoxicum, lily of the
Inlley, cluftered hyacinth, martagon lily, fraxinclla» banebcrry, monks-
|W, green hellebore, and hepatica.

A few charadcriftic plants alfo are met with in the cultivated fields

IjDii vineyards, fuch as lournefol, blue pimpernel, and Carthufian pink.

Zoology-] The zoology of this weftern half cf Germany correfponds

iiiniich with that of the Auftrian and Pruflian dominions, that little need

taddcd. The German horfes are generally more remarkable for weight

ifpirit. The German wild boar is of fupcrior fize ; and thofe of

Peftphalia are in particular eftimation. In the N. .of Germany the lynx

ifometimes fcen ; and the wolf is common in the fouthi

CHAPTER II.

THE CHIEF GERMAN STATES ON THE NORTH OF THE MAYN.

my.^Brunfwici Lunenburg. — H^ffa. — Mecklenburg. — Duchy ofBrutif*
•mci, — City of Hamburg. — Smauer States. — Eccleftajl'tc Powers.

[N thisdivifion of Germany the eleftor of Saxony muft be regarded aa

the chief potentate, his territories being computed at 1 1,600 fquare

b, the inhabitants at 1,896,000, and the revenue at i »283,333l. fterling.

le name is derived from the ancient natiovi of \\k Saxons, who in the

ddle ages held the greateft part of the N. and W. of Germany, and

U extended

h: y.

!<y4

GERiMAN STATES.

I )

extended themfelves thus far over Thuringia, towards the territories rf
the Lulitii, a Slavonic tribe who gave name to Lufatia.

The countries cumpiilcd in theeledorate of Saxony are, the duchrf '
called in the north, and Voigtland in the fouth ; Lufatia irj <heeaft 1 '
part of Thuringia in the welt j with part of Mffnia zi.;\ li> i!..b:;rei bei I
ill length from E. to \V. about 220 Britifh miles, and u, '. •; .'dth from iTI
to S. about 130. The ancient dukes of Saxony fprun^ ^ jiu the kinrr I
who defended therafelve* with fuch valour agamlt France. Otho In
duke of Saxony became emperor in 936, and religned Saxony to the houfe
of Stubenflcorn or Billing, which ended in lio6"; and foon after tliisl
potent dukedom paffed by marriage to the houfe of Bavaria. In 1 180 the!
eallern part of Saxony was afil^ned to Bernard of Afcaiiia, the welterfti
half being given to the archbilhop of Cologne. The houfe of Afcanial
ended with Albert III, 1422 ; and was followed by that of Mifnia. Ernelll
and Albert, fons of Fnderic II., divided the territories in 148;,
formed two branches hearing their names. The Ernt'lUiic branch
the houfe of Mifnia ruled till 1 547, when John Frederic was depofei
by Charles V., and the eledoiate afligned to Maurice of the Albertim
branch, in \vhicli it continues. In order to gain the crown of Poland
the vain wifti of the Saxon elcdlors, Frederic Auguilus, 1697, abjurei
the proteltant religion ; but neither fie nor his fucceffors have attemptci
to conftrain the confcience of their fubjeds. The eleftorate fuifcrci
greatly by the invufion of tiie Pruflians, in tlie war of fevcn years
has but fince continued the traiMjuil and flonriihing feat of arts am
fciences.

The religion is the proteffant, which was here intrdiluced hy Luther
and there are two bifhoprics, Mer(eberg and Nauinburg. The govern.
mcnt is, as u»ual among the German prmces, nearly ablolntc, but con.
dueled with moderation through different councils. Yet there are ftatei
general of nobles, clergy, and burgefles, commonly afl'embled every fixtl
year to regulate the taxation ; and the fovereign can iiTue no laws withi
out their confcnt. The army is about 24,000, and the political wcighj
of Saxony in this part of Germany is next to that of PruiTia, fvitf
which it is natmully conneded, and which it cannot with fafety oppoff
This beautiful eleftorate may indeed well be an objcd of ambition ti
the Pruflian monarchs ; but the jealoufy of other powers ha* preventei
the conqueft.

The language and literature of Saxony are the mo[l diftinguiflicdin
Gerniany, moll of the writers who have refmed the language having bci
born, or leaving refided in this country, as Gottflied, who iirll introduo
a fuperior ttyle, and many others. Leibnitz, Wolf, and otlier pliiIof(
phers were alfo born or relided in Saxony ; among the arlills may
named Mengs, Haffe, and Gluck. Lcipfig is a celebrated mart of Gei
man hterature. There are nrany fchook, colleges, and academies; anioii|
the latter, the mineralogic academy of Freyberg, inltituted in i;6
is efteemed the leading fchool of that fcience. The cliiof city is Drefdi
on the Elbe, of celebrated neatnefs ; and about 50,000 inhabitants; bi
often expofed to the injuries of war. It is Hrll mentioned about theyei
1020; and difplays many manufactures, with the palace and celebrati
cabinets of the eledor. Leipfig has near 30,000 inhabitants. Wittei
berg has fuffcred greatly by war, particularly in the liege by tl
A'lilrians in 1760; and it is now chiefly celebrated as having been t!l
rcfiJence of Luther. The manufadures of Saxony are thread, liiiel
laces, ribbons, velvets, carpets, paper, colours derived from vari(ii|
minerals, glafs, and porctlain of .*emarkablo beauty, atiJ various worl

dERMAK STATED.

ifti

la ferpontine ftonet The country is alfo rich in native produfts, both
irriciiltural and mineral, and beatitiful pearls are found in the Elder in
llells about fix inches long *. With fuch advantages Saxony maintains
jconfiderable inland commerce j and Leipfig is efteemed one of the chief
trading towns of Germany.

The climate is fo favourable that wine is made in Mifnia. The face of
tie country, efpecially towards the fouth, is beautifully divcffiHcd with
jUand dale; and its richnefs between Meiffcn and Drcfden is efteemed
jrival that of the north of Italy. Thciand is well cultivated ; the prd-»
Jiitli;, all kinds of grain and vegetables, with liops, flax, hemp, tobacco,
[ijfron, madder, &c. f . Chief rivers, the Elbe, tlie Saal or Sala, the
Jlulda, the Pleifle, the Eliler, with the Spree of Liifalia } all except the
Elbe and Sala, rifing in the mountains between Saxony and Bohemia*
The mountains are thofe of the ErScgeberg, already dt-fcribed in the ge-
1 serai account of Germany ; and there are iVveral linall forells fupplymg
y for the mines and domelHc purpofcs. The botany and zoology are
jfffiieral common with the reft of Germany ; but the mineralogy is as
ibl particular, and few countries can baaft of fuch folTil opulence. The
sines of Johngeorgenlladt produce filVer, tin, bifn^uth, manganeff, cobalt,
Itjlfram, Sin. The other mint-s are thofe of Freyberg, Annaberg, Eh*
;derfdorf, Altenberg, Eiben(*ock, &c., producino^ fdver, copper,

twirieni

iKdand other metals. At Schncckenllcin, near Averbach in the Voigt*

y, appears the topaz rock, unique in its kind. The tin of Saxony

cnot only a rare produft, but is excellent. Jet is alfo foimd ; and abnnd-

Kc of fine porcelain clay, witli fuller's earth, marble, flate, ferpentine,

Intesand jafper. The annual pi*oduft of the filver mines has been coin-'

fated, in the German ftyle, rft four tons of gold, or 40,000). and is

lilouglit to be rivalled by that of the cobalt concerted into the blue pig-

Iwnt called fmalt. The tin, copper, lead, and iron, are aJfo very pro-

tive. Nor muft cOal and turf be forgotten among thiT mineral pro*

|iliiftioR8 of this remarkable region.

Next in confequence is the eleftorate of Brunfwick Lunenburg :^, or<

llsoften ilyled from the capital, the eledtorate of Hano^'er, containing

put 8224 fquare miles, with 8<;o,ooo inhabitants, and the computed

litrenue 962,500!. fterling, while the military force is eftimaled at

|)o,ooo §. It is fituated in the circle of Lower Saxony, and poflefled by

;defccndants of a branch of that great nation called the Oil Fa'i, of

leni Falians ; while another branch to the weft gave name to Weltphalia.

tcountries eomprifed in the electorate of Hanover are chiefly the duchy

fLuneburg, Bremen, and Verden, and Saxe Lauenburg adjacent to

fiolfteiri on the northern fide of the Elbe ; with the countries of Calen* '

irgh and Grubenhagen in the fouth, and thofe of Diepholtz and Hoya

itheweft, and that of Dann?berg in the eaft. The fouthern territory

fGnibenhagen is detached from the reft by the principality of Wolfen-

littel, the bifhopric of Hildeflieim, and the country of Halbcrftadt ; the

Mbeinjr poflefled by the duke of Brunfwick, the fecqnd by its own bifhop,

id the third by the king of Pruffia, having been transferred to the elec-

palhoufeof Brandenburg by the treaty of Weftphalia, 1648. Hence

I may be computed that the compart part of the Hanoverian dominion»

ktends in length, eaft to weft, about 180 miles : and in breadth N. to S.

I* Bnfcliin^, ix. 0J2. ' ' , ' • ^ *

It See Hwik's 'Ittblej for minute parlicularg.

I« On tlie continent, written uid pruiiouiiuRtl Lunctiurg; the fcconj ;> lijng adJcJ in

fcliiT) merelj to give fotiml to tlic «■. .

|i Tliii army «Miiuin«i luuft oi' the revenue. See Hoeck.

U a al«ut

392

GERMAN STATES.

about 100 miles; while the detached duchy of Grubenlinfrcn wi'Ji
fouthem Caleiiburg or the country of Gottingen, is about 80 miles in
length by 30 in its greatell breadth.

The elettors of Ilanover fpring from the ancient dukes of Brunfwick
Bruno I., margrave of Saxony, A.D. ij^^^ enlarged and cmbelliflvd
the city of Brunfwick. In 1071 the emperor Henry IV. gave tin;
duchy of Bavaria to Welph, fon of Azo of Ede, a powerful marquis in
Italy, and of Cuniza, heirefsof the firll Welphs earls of Altorf in Suabia.
His grandfon, Henry Duke of I^avaria, acquired Brunfwick alonjj with 1
Saxony. In 1195 William, fon of Henry the Lion, and of Matilda of]
England, acquired Luneberg : and his fon Otho, 12 13, was the firltf
duke of Brunfwick and Luneburg. His fon Albert I. 1252, was fur-
named the Grea'c. Magnus II. 1368, was furnamed Torquatus, fromal
large chain which he wore. His fon Bernard retained Luneburg: vvhilej
Brunfwick pafled to Henry the fecond fon, and continued in his (1?.|
fcendants till 1634. The dukes of Luneburg acquired fome fmall pnr.
tions of adjacent territory. Heni-y being put to the ban of the empire j
in 1)21, was fucceeded by his fon, who only afTumed the title of iiiikL»l
of Zell, a ftyle which continued till the reign of George William 166, i
In 1617, Chriftian duke of Zell obtained pofleflion of Grubenhairpn.J
In 1692 George William duke of Zell confcntcd that the cleftorate, in.
ilituted in favour of his family, (hould be conferred on his younger broJ
ther, as he had no male heir. Eriu;Il died in 1698, having married
Sophia daughter of Ehzabcth, daughter of James I. of England. H^
was fucceeded by his fon George Lewis, cledlor, 1 69S, and king oi
England, 171+. The later hiftory of Hanover is little remarkable, ex]
ccpt by repeated devaftations of the Frenuh ; and in the recent war it wa(
only fecured by the powerful interference of the king of PrulTia.

The religion is the Lutheran. The government is nov/ conducJled bJ
a council of regency, and there are provincial dates, though rardy fur.J
moned. The political importance of thii eleftorate cannot be higlil
eitiroatcd in the prefent Ilate of German affairs ; and from France
Pruflta it can only be protected by the powerful mediation of England
The literatuire of this country has defervcd confiderable applaufc, lino
the inftitution of the univerfity of Gottingen by George II: it waj
founded in 1734, and folernnly opened 1737. The chief City is Haiiovcij
in the northern part of the principality of Calenburg, fituated on tl>
river Leine, amidll numerous gardens and villas. This city is firll men
tioncd in the twelfth century ; and is (lightly fortified, containing abo:^
15,500 inhabitants. In the new city, on the left of the Lcinc, isalj
brary particularly rich in books of hiltory and politics. Gottingtj
ilaiiUs on the fame river, containing about 7,600 iwuls, a neat unj
plealing town, firll mentioned in the thirtecnfn century. Vt-rden, nc|
the junction of Aller with the Wefer, is of fmall account, but has 1
cently fcnt fome veffcls to the Greenland fifliery under the Hanoverid
flitg. Other towns are Luneburg, which imparts its name to the el(j
tm-ate ; Laueiiburg, Zu-ll, with Einbeck and Olterode in the proving
of (^rubenbagen. The manufactures and commerce of this clidoral
are pretty confiderable, in metals from the Hart/, linen, cotton, fon
broad cloths, &c. The filvcr fabrics of Zell are cckbriited in Girmanj
The chief ex ports are metals, coarfe Jineni*, timber, peat, witlj fomecaj
tk and grain.

l*he aipedt uf the cotmtry is plain, partaking fomewlint of the (m
nitureof Brandenburg, except in the^fouth, where rife the lofty and pi
Jurefqur mountains ofll

ue Hai.z.
5

The agricultural product j arc wlieJ

GERMAN STATES.

^93

Icn, cotton, Ion

fie, barley, oats, peas, haricots and pot-herbs of all kinds j with abun-
dance of potatoes, good fruits, flax, hemp, tobacco, madder, &c.
^Vood abounds both for fuel and architefture, and affords confiderable
quantities of tar and pitch. Bees are particularly attended to. Horfes,
cattle, and flieep are numerous. The chief river is the Elbe towards the
jofth ; and the Wefer and Leine on the well ; with the Aller and Ilme-
jjuin the centre. Smaller dreams are the Loha, the Lutter, the Fufe,
«ith the Siber which pervades the Hartzwald in the fouth. There are a
few finall lakes, as that of Diepholtz, and Stinhudder ; but none equal in
llzeto thofe in the adjacent province of Mecklenburg. The Hanoverian
dominions contain many fmall forefts, and woods, befidcs thofe of the
Hirtz, already defcribed in the enumeration of the German mountains.
The mineralogy is rich, confiding of filver, copper, lead, iron, cobalt,
jjnc ; with marble, flate, coal, turf, and limertone, the lall particularly
from the hill of Kalkberg near Luneburg. Two curious mineral fub-
iances, boracite and daurolite, are found, the former in the Kalkberg,
•lie latter at Andreafberg in the Hart/. . which region likcwife prefents
fsveral lingular features of nature, as tlie cavern of Blackcnburg, the
termination of which has never been explored, and the cave of Hamclcn.

The bifliopric of Ofnabruck in Wellphalia may be confidered as an
appanage of Hanover, adjoining to the county of Diepholtz. By tlie
treaty of Ofnabruck, 1648, it was decided that this hifliopric fliould be
poffeired alternately by a catholic and a protedaiit, the former at the choice
of the chapter ; but the latter always a prince of the houfc of Hanover,
who was to have the civil and criminal fuperiority ; while the ecclefiailic
iffairJ arc adminittered by the archbidiop of Cologne. Inhabitants about
120,000 : revenue 26,250!.

Having thus defcribed, at fome length, the two chief and leading prin-
cipalities on the north of the Mayn, a few others, the next in power,
may be briefly mentioned ; for it would be a vain wade of the reader's at-
tention, and indeed only render his knowledge more confufed and imper-
ffft, if even fliort accounts were attempted of the 300 princes and dates
crowd the labyrinth of Germany : princes whofe territories under
amonarchy would fink into the greographical obfcurity of thofe of a peer
or landed gentleman ; and dates which may be more aptly fought in a
aretteer, or in the minute and laborious pages of Bufohing.

In this fecondary view of the noith of Germany the fird place mull
I be afligncd to Heflia, a country of no mean extent nor fame. Some
Mrifts, as ufual, being afllgnca to princes of the family, the ruling date
iulcnominated Heffe Caffel, fo c.ilkJ from the capital. This territory
i! about 80 Britifh miles in length, and nearly the fame in breadth;
files fquare, 2760, with 750,000 inhabitants, military fovce 12,000.
Tlie derivation of Hefli from the ancient Catti is arbitrary, and it is lunv
conceived to originate from the river Ede, which runs into the Fulda ;
but this land was a feat of the ancient Cattians. This country is gene-
nlly mountainous ; but there arc many pleafant vales, fometimvs contaia-
irijf vineyards, and fields fertile in corn and paduragc. It abounds in
pmc and fifli, and there arc manyfodils and minerals; the fands of iho
Ldcr contain pnrticlcB of gold; itnd there was formerly a mine of that
metal, but of fmall account, near Frankcnberg. Tlar/ are alfo found
Ifilver, copper, lead, coal, fine clays, with veins of marM" and alabader,
land lome medicinal waters. Detached parts are watered by the Khint;
and the Mayn : the fiiuller rivers are very numerous. Tlicre arc dales oi
I three orders, nobles, clergy, and burgclTcs from Cad. Mnhurg, and

~ with two or three I'uperin-

tcudiints.

Ictlicr towns. The religion ii iht reformed

w-l

■■ T^^i

S.pf 1

Iffic

t' 'jL' ' ''I

-il

t .'

J 94

GERMAN STATES.

tendants. The unlvcrfities are thofe of Marburg and Riijteln, and that
of Gieffen belonging to lieffe Darmftadt, ruled by another branch of the
fainily. There is fome trade from the natural produfts, and a few manu.
failures of linen, cloth, hats, ftockings, &c. The chi.'f city is Caffcl'
which contains about 22,000 inhabitants, and is pleafing, though ofteu
injured by war j the Heilians being more remarkable for expolintr lin-ij.
lives abroad, than for a vigorous defence of their native country. Hatiau
is alfo a conliderable place j and the country fo called is fuppofed to con,
tain 100,000 fouls.

The duchy of Mecklenburg is fuppofed to contain 4,800 fquare miles
with 375,000 inhabitants, or by Hocck's account 300,000. It is lij!
vided into two parts, known by the additions of Schworin and Gullm
full of lakes, h'jaths and marflies ; and the foil being landy, producis
little but rye and oats. This country w^as long polfeflcd by the Veiuti
or Wends, being the fariheft wellern fettlementof that Slavonic natiuii-
and the pealants remain in a Hate of fervitude, as was the cafe in D. r.!
mark, and many parts of Germany. The ftates, conlilling of nohili;y
and bnrgeiTes, are an'mibled yearly to regulate the taxation. The rcliirion
is the Liilheran, with iix fnperintendants ; and an univcrfity at Rollcck.
The maiii:fa<Stiires are wool and tobacco ; the exports, partly by Liibir
partly by Hamburgh, are grain, flax, hemp, hops, wax, homy, cattl
butter, cli^^of!,-, fruits, feathers, dri(-d geele, tallow, linfeed, wool, and
tim!;ei-. 'I'lie ruling family defcends from the old Venedie fovcreii>iis
The branch of Mi-ckknhnrg Strelit/. began in tlic end of the fcvcntccntli i
century, and enjovj Rat/.hnrg, Stargard, and other provinces.

Tile Duke ot Uruni\\ick ihared a ))art of the Hart/, and its imixir.
tant rr.int s '. Tiic f ice if the country refi'mbles the elcrtorate of Ha-
rover. Here is a ricli cv'.ivent of nuns at Ganderfhein« of the Lutlieraii
perfualion, the abbefs being generally a princefa of the famil). Tlii.ri>
are ftvorul fmi.1! manufachut s ; and the ftrong beer of lirunfwiek, called i
nunu, is exporte.l tVum ria'nbnrgh.

Nor mull the city of Hamburgh be omitted, being, after Vienna ;ind|
"Berlin, the thud tity in Cieruuuiy, and fuppofed to contain ico,ccoiii.
habitants, or by lloeek'.. account 95,000} wiiile no other, except l)iv|.
den and Franktoit on the Mayn, cunlain nio.'e than 30,000. It was fur.
tiliid by Ch.'.rlenujgne A. 1). SoS. The Elbe is here, including tliel
illands, near a mile broad. The houfesare ratlur commodious tliantlo.l
gant, and there are few line llreets, the population being overerowdcj
on account of the fortifications, buih mi the old Dutch taUe, with fpacioiii
ramparts, planted with trees. It is ruled by a fenate of 37 perfous, tlie
form bt ;:i)- ariiloeratic. Tlie religion is Lutheran. Theie arc con.
fiderable b."ewerie«, and works for refining fugar, with fome maiiufaitiiri'sl
of cloth ro.merly the trade chiefly connlted of linens, wuoilens, wiiiij
fugar, coffee, fpiceries, metals, tobacco, timber, leather, corn, ilried liil;,!
furn, &c. ; but at j)refeut it is llie great mart of the commerce of the Bn-j
tidi ifles with the continent. The biuik was founded in 16191 andtlicj
nunierous librurii s do honoi.. L<> the ti'lle of the inhabitants. Its chief (k-
pendencies are the river of Alllef, the bailliage of Ham, fome iilcs andl
l<»wlands on the Elbe; and, helldts fome dillrins acquired from Holllein,|
the baidi.'ge of Rit/ebuttel, on the iA)rth of the duchy of IJiemii,
eluding (he port of Cuxluven, aiid the iilc called Nvuev^ei^i fiiuiitciil
oppolite to jliat port f .

* Rcrtntly cxrhnngml v/\\\\ IUnov«r fuf aouiUer diAilA.
t Hufcliin^', xi. Mt— im ■ • •'

I'.

GERMAN STATES.

teln, and tlist
' branch of the
id a few manu.
city is Caffol,
though often
expoling their
intry. Hanau
ppofed to con.

DO fquare miles,
ooo. It is di-
■in and Gullro,
luidy, produces
by the Vencti,
Slavonic nation;
lie cafe in D.,;;.
ling oi nobili;y
n. The religion
fity at RolUick.
artly by Lulxr, |
, lioniy, caul, I
feed, wool, ami
icdic fovcroi^iis.
f the fcvcntcTiitii I
)vinces.

, and its imjxir-

•rtorate of 11a.

of the Lutlioraii |

fainil) . Tliip'

ruufwick, cdlkd

after Vienna iind I

itaiii 100,000 111.

ler, cxct pi DivU

loo. It was fur- 1
iiichiding tliej

IiiaUuus than elo.
ig owrcrowdojl

Ic, with fpaciouil
37 pcrfoiis, the I

iTlu'ic are con-

rie iiiaiiufaftiiri'sj

wutiihns, \viiiv,l

I corn, dried lil'i.,[

hercc of the Bri-I

1619 i andtlicl

ts. its chief ik«

p, fonie illi'fi andl

fron: Holllein,!

lof Uir nen, ii4

L-wrik» filuaud)

Id this northern half of Germany are alfo OlJcnbiirar, now a detached
principality* pofrefFcd by 75,000 inhabitants ; bwedifli Pomcraoi;!,
lojiooo; the principality of Anhalt, 100,000; the territories of the
dnces of Nafi'an, 130,000.; of the princes of Schwart/ljuro- in Thuriu-
„\i, icOjOOO ; the princes of Wahh'ck on the north of Heflia, 80,000;
,"|n counts of Lippe, in Weftphali..> .95,000: the counts of Reufs in
Voijftland, which they fliarc with the Hedor of SaKony, 66,000; and
iliecityof Frankfort on the Mayn, 3fj,c.''yO.

The town of Papcoburg is lituated on the fouthern frontier of the
principality of Eal? Frvfland, and tiie northern frontier of the county of
l^lunller, to the call vritrd ■/ 'he Ems, and about 24 Britifli miles to the
Ijuth of Emdcn. It belongs to the Baron of Landlljerg Veelen.
IV town at preft-nt contains two churches, 400 houfes, and 3000

I'tie other chief powers are ecclefiuHic : i. The eleftor of Ment/, the
tirllin tl»e empire, has loll his capilal city, and Worms on the left bank
oftlie Rhine ; but he ftill holds a larjje territory on the Mayn, with ^x-
flirt, a city of i 5,000 inhabitants in the northern rep;ion of Thuringia,
and the furrounding dotnain. 2. The eledlor of Triers, or Tre<ve«,
whofeextenfive dominions, being chiefly on the left of the Rhine, are
li'ized by the French. 3. The elettor of Cologne, whofe territories are
,-hieflyin the like predicament, but who pofreflfis tne province called the
(Jdchyof Wellphalia. 4. In Wellphalia arc the bifhoprieks of Munfter,
ofOlHabruck, and Paderborn ; the rich bilhoprick of l.iegcis immerged
a the French conquclls. 5. In Lower Saxoiiy that of Hildefli<rim.
fi, III the Upper Rhine that of Fulda : and 7. the large biiliuprick of
\\'iirt/,burg, in Franconia, is chiefly on the north of the Mayn. The
falilialUcal cledforatcs were coinpiiled each at more than 300,000 inha-
litants; and the biflioprics, from that of Hildelheim, the imalled,
•3,0:0 to Wiirt/.burg, 200.000. Thcie exteiifive fees, fninded and
darri'd by the policv of Charlemagne and his fucccHors, partly for
the more fpeedy and ciVedual converlion of the pagans in the north of
Crprmanv, and partly to balance the riling power of the arillocracy,
uhich af'terwards proved fo r Minoud to th" empire, have beeu recently
Ifcularizcd.

CHAPTER HI.

TIIF OFRMAN STATES ON TIJK hiOLTII OF THE MMJf.

\E!<floi\ilf of Bdvaila conjoiiwd ".vith the Paliitlnatf. — Dtirhy of h'u, :f ,ibvrg.
— Anfpach — Saizi.i. — Smaller States.-- EccUfinJlu / 'i-tn.

A iS in the northern divilion of Germany there are, cxclu'i'c of the
Prunian dominions, two pn-ponderaiing powers, tlu ^Icftors of
Saxony and Hanover ; lo ui the fouthern divifion, exclufive of Aultria,
tW arc two fuperior potentates, the Elector Paiatioe ^nd of Bavarii
(tlii'fe eledorates being now conjoitied), and the duke of Wur.emburg.

The eledor of Bavaria and the Palaliuate is the chief of ail thefe ie-

jcondary powers, his dominions being computed at 16,176 miles fquare,

»ith 1,934,000 inhabitants, or, ateortling to Horck, 1,844,000. The

]Fr."i(:h liaving feized more than half of the Palatinate on the Itft bank of

Y^' Rbtiir, (a mouutainout region, but abounding in mines uii^icklilver

l' 4 ' and

im^

ftj^

GERMAN STATES.

and other valuable metals,) the remaining part, on the right bank of tl
river, is about twenty-four Britifli miles in length^ by the fame at its ut.
moll breadth ; but contains the beft part of the principality, pervaded b *
the river Neckar, producin^j excellent wines, and enriched bv tlip ritiZ

cities
ler-

of Manheim and Heidelberg. The firil palatine of the Rhine was El
hard of Franconia, A.D. 925. The Lutheran religion was ettablifhed
in 1556, and in 1563 appeared the famous catechifm of Heidelberfr ; but
fince 1685 the Catholic fyftcm has predominated. In the thirteenth
century the houfe of Bavaria acquired the Palatinate by marriage and
from it the modern family defccnded. Frederick V., Eleftor Palatine ^
1610, married E''/abeth daughter of James I. of England ; and afpircd f
to the crown of Bohemia, but was vanqijinicd, and the eleftorate tranf, m
ferred to the houfe of Bavaria : yet by the treaty of Weilphaha, j^iy ^'
his fon regained a part of his dominions, and was created an ci^hMi tlcftor If
of the empire. Tliis branch, failing in 1685, was fucceeded bv tlie colla- i
teral branch of Deux Fonts. In 169^ the Palatinate was rendered alinoll ^
a defert by the notorious ravages of tlie French.

The hiiiory of Bavaria is yet more important. The countr)' was jjo.
verned by dukes, under the kings of Auftrafia ; and ui the ninth century
princes of the Francic family afl'umed tijc* ilyle of kings of Bavaria, uliilo
Liutpold, 889, was the lirft. duke ; and his prosrouy extend to \\w Mrefcnt
day, though interrupted in 946, when, Berthold dying withou'. cialdreii
the emperor Otho gave Bavaria to his brother Henry, of Saxony. In
I07lWelpli, fon of A zo of Efte, became duke of Bavaria; which in
1138 pafled tc the houfe of Auftria, but in 1 154 returned to tiie houfe of
Welph, in the perfon of Henry the Lion. In 1 180 it finally returned to
the firll family, by the fucceffion of Otho of Wit'elbach, a decendantcf)
Arnolf, fecond duke of Bavaria, after the family had been uniulUy deprivid
formore than two centuries, I'hc emperors Lewis, i3i4,andCharlesVII,
1740, were of this family.

The duchy of Bavaria is divided into Upper and Lower, and wliat iJ
called the Higher Palatinate (or that of Bavaria). The h'ngth from N.
to S. is fomewhat interrupted, but may be about 150 Britifli milei, andl
the breadth about 120. Upper Bavaria is, in a griat degree, nioun.I
tainous, and covered Nyith f«)rells, iiiterfpcrfed with large and fmail labs, I
Lower Bavaria is more plain and fertile. There are mines of filver and!
copper near Podenmais, in the bailliage of Viechtach, and of lead atj
Reichcnthal, with many quarries of mai hi*, and mineral fprings. Butl
the chief mineral riches of Bavaria con fiil in the fait fpringsat Traun(lcin,|
which occupy niany people in produdtive induilry. Tlie mountains of
Upper Bavaria may be coniidered as branches of the Alps, The chic
rivers are the Danube, the Inn, the Ifer, the Lech, and the Nab; ,ind|
in the Palatinate the Neckar. The religion is tlie Roman Cathi,lic,|
which, as ufnal, damps the fpirit of induilry ; and the manufacliircs ;irel
of fmall account, the chief exports beinp^ corn and entile. The re\vm;e|
is computed at i,i66,6ool. ; and the military force at l2,oco: bntlil
being greatly inferior to the fmallor elri'lorate of Saxony, 'i'hc rhioti
city is Munich, clleemed the moll elegant in Germuiy, with 38,000 in.
habitants; in l>ower Bavaria are I.aiuiniut and Slraubcn $ Ratilboii,!
though feizcd by the elector of li.ivaria, 1703, is rc;;arded as a hceandl
imperial city. In the palatinate of the Rhine is M.uilieim, fnppolidtoj
hold 24,000 inhabitants; and Hicdtlberg, noted for wines, and fornierlyl
for a valu.ible library transferred to the Vatican. This city, amidil the!
infamous dellrudtion of t!ie Palatinate, was reduced to mere walls l>"t|
atlcrwards rcllorcd by iLe indulhioub Luthtraiiy.

The!

GERMAN STATES.

297

The Bavarians are little diftinguiftied in literature ; but are a vigorous
'icfi adapted to the fatigues of war. There is however an univerlity at
woldlladt, and an academy of fciences at Munich. The ftatcs conllit,
js ufual, of clergy, nobility, and burgeffes ; but before the acceflion of
the lioufe of Deux Ponts, the adminiitration had become the moft lethar-
flc of any in Germany. At prefent thisele<3;orate is intimately connefted
«ith the French republic.

Thcfecond potentate in the fouth is the duke of Wurtemburg, whofe
(iniiiinions are computed at 3,200 fquare miles, with 600,000 inhabitants.
I'liis duchy derives its name from the calUe of Wurtemburg, fituated in
thebailliage of Canftadt. There were earls of Wurtemburg in the twelfth
century ; and in 1495 the ducal title was conferred on earlEverard. In
calcof the extinftion of the family, the houfe of Auftria pretends to the
fiicceflion, and even now affumes the title and arms of Wurtemburg. The
dukedom of Teck was added in the fourteenth century. The revenue is
fomputed at 245,000!., the. military force at 6000. This duchy forms
the moft confiderable and fertile part of the circle of Swabia ; and ia in-
deed, after Saxony, one of the bell in the empire. The mountains of
the Black Forcll on the weft, and thofe of the Alb on the 8. and E., not
only divcrfify the face of the country, but fupply timber, fuel, and mines.
The chief grain is fpelt, and fome barley and wheat, with flax, &c., and
the fertility fufficcs even for export The wines of the Neckar are not
fo abundant as to fuperfede the ufe of cyder. There are mmcs of fdver
jnd copper near Freudcnftadt, and at Konigfwart ; of filverat Konig-
llein; and of copper at Gutlacli, near Hornbcrg. Cobalt, fulphur,
coal, porcelain clay, marble, alaballer, with the fait works at Sulz, con-
ftitute the other mineral productions. There are many warm baths and
medical I'prings, and the chief river is the Neckar, which, with the Na-
mld, and its other tributary ftreair.s, enlivens and fertilifes the duchy.
The it ates con fill of fourteen fuperior clergy, and the deputies of fixty-
f;.T|it towns and bailliages. The religion is the Lutheran, with fome
Calvinills, and fome colonies of the Vauduis. The churcli is ruled by
lour fupcrintendants, who are llyled abbots, and thirty-eight rural deans :
a iVuful is annually held in the autumn. Educatiim and ccc'efiaftical
Ihidics in particular, aro favoured by laudable inllitntions, not to be found
in any other protellant country. The feminary of Tubinge-i ufed to
contain about 300 rtudents; and tliere is an uc-idnny of vduealion at
Stutgard. There are manufadures of pottery, gh» is, woolicn, linen, and
fdk } which, with t ' ■ natural produetri of the ci/ir/.iry, f'.pplv a con-
fiderable t xport : the import* are by Frankfort on the Mayn. Tiie ch'ef
city is Slutgard, agreeably fituated on a rivulet which flows into the
Neckar, and the ducal relldince lincc the year 13 2 1 . Son-vc of the build-
ings are elegant, and there is a cabinet of natural and artilieial cniioiities.
The fecond town is Tubingen on the Neckar, wit!i an univerlity fomuUd
id 1477. The other towns are fniall but numerous, and the villages
thickly placed in a populous and flourilhing country.

Amoti- the (I'condary powers, in this fouthern clivifion of Germany,
mull lirllbe inmeil Anfpach, or Onollhach, which, with Bareuth, maiu-
taiiH a population of 320,000 on 2,^00 hjuare miles. Thefe regions are
mouiitainony and landy ; but near the Mayn yield good wine. 'I'he chiii"
mines arc of iron, the others being neifleiled. Near the Fitchtelbcrg,
Barcuth produces a variety of beautiful marb''."?, and ftMue curious mine-
ral,;. Tlie principality of Oareuth is alfo I:novvn by the name of Culni-
Ijach; and, with Onoliliacli, fo ms the chief power iu FraucMiiia, now
ijiinpxcd to the fovcrcigrty of I'ruilia,

The

1*^

S r"*i

M /

298

GERMAN STATES.

The country of the Salz, alfo called Salzia, and the archlMO.opnck f
Salzburg, is a compaft and interelling region, about 100 En.rliih niil
in length, and 60 at its greatelt breadth ; computed at 2,880 fqua^*
roilcB, and a population of 250,000 ; by Hocck's account, only 200 00 ^
The archbifhop is primate of all Germany, the fee bei«g founded by St*
Rupert, an Englilhman, in 716, The chapter confilh ot twentv-fou*
perfons, of noble extraft ; and in political affairs is wholly ruled by Auf
tria, there being twenty-two Aultrians in the chapter. The archbiflion'
rick poffefles many fair lordfliips in Auilria, Stiria, and Carinthia. S-^\,'
})urg, the ancient Juvavum,ha& an univcrUty, with about 20,000 inhahi"
tants ; the other towns being of little moment. The Roman Catholi *
fyftem has baniflied many induftrious inhabitants, who have chiefly taken
refuge in the Pruflian dominions. The fait works at Hallcn, about twihe
miles S. of Salzburg, are very lucrative. There are alfo in Salzia fome
mines of filver and lead ; and one of gold at Gallein, and others alontr
the northern fide of the Alps to Zillerthal. The copper is often iniprcir.
nated with gold, which ufed to be a fource of gain to the inehers of
Nurenburg and Aiigfburg.

This grand fouthern divifion of Germany alfo contains the territorie
of the Margraves of Baden, 832 fquare miles, with 200,000 inhabitants-
the lands of Heffe Darmiladt, belonging to anotlu r reigning branch of
the houfe of Heflia, refiding at Dramiladt, and alio poUcinng territories
on the northern fide of the Mayn, both clliniated under the article of
Heflia. The imperial city of Nuremberg has conliJerably dei lined, but
it ftill contains about 30,000 fouls, wliile Uhu has not above half the
number. To enumerate other fmall iecular principalities would only ob.
ftru6t the intention of this deLription, which is to imprefs on the
memory the more important.

But as the intention of fecuhirizing the numerous and wide ccclcfiaftical
lerricories in Germany mull »'iigage nuich political conlideratiun, it is
proper to add here, as has been done in the former chapter, a hit of the
chief fees to the fouth. of the Mayn. i. Tiie archbifhoprick of Salz-
burg, being among the leading powers, has been already defcribed.
2. The large biflioprick of Wiirt/.burg, being chielly on the north of the
Mayn, has been mentjoiicd in the former chapter : the next in inipor.
tance, but often held in conjunction witli the former, is that of Bamhurg,
fuppufcd to c<">nt'ain 180,000 inhabitants. 4. The bilhoprick of Sjicvi,
or by the Frpnch enunciation Spire, was fuppeiled to contain 50,000, but
of thele pr bably one half, on tiie weft bank of the Rhine, are now fub.
jeft to Ftancc. 5. The bifhoprick of Aichftett, in the fouthern ex-
tremit , of I'ranconia. 6. Suabia prefents tlie large and npnlent bifno;;.
rici jf Augfburg, with an extent of territory about 70 Englilh miles in
Ici.j^th, but the medial hrf?adth not exceeding twelve. 7. Of Conllance,
vhofe territories alf'" i'Xtend i'ltt) Swifferland. 8. A great part of tiie
bifhoprick of StraHniig. <j. The la'-ge abbatial territories of Kempter,
Buchau, and Lindiu ; with the p ;<iry of ElKvangen, in the north.
10. The bifltoprick of Paiiau, in Bavaria, is computed at 2),oco in.
habitants, ii. That of Freyfmgen, with the county of Wer.lenfels,
near the Rlv-etian Alps, at 23,000. 12. The biflioprick of Ratilboii,
which is of fcnal) extent.

Recently, the conltitution of the German Empire hir- been annihi-
lated. The kings of Bavaria and Wurtemberg, the electors or grand
dukes of Baden and Heflia, and other princes near the Rhine, havr
formed a grand confederation, acknowledged by Pruflia ; the emperor
Francis IL, by his declaration of Aujguft 2, 1806, formally religned
the title and power of emperor of Germany, only retaining tijat of
Auiiria.

( 299 )

ITALIAN STATES.

CHAPTER I.

CSENERAL DESCRIPTION OF ITALY.

Kvij'm:.— Boundaries. — Extent. — Original Population,-— Prefmt Phpula-
jy,f.^F(}ce of the Country. —Rivers. — Lales. — Mountains. — Botany.—

loolosy-

I'TIK clanical and interefting country of Italy has been fo repeatedly
defcribcd, that it has become familiar even to the common reader.
I'his defcription (hall therefore be rellricfted to very narrow limits ; and
nillalfo of neceflity be fomewhat abridged by the prefent unfettlea ftate
of the country, which, on many topics, fcarccly leaves materiala even
{(jrcoiijeduro. Hence the political and civil departments of geographical
dcfcriptioii arc almoll obliterated ; and this brief account {hall chiefly
ieHiieate thofe lafting features of nature which no political change can

influence.

Divisions] Italy may be regarded as having been in all ages of hif-
(ory, divided into three parts, the fouthern, the central, and the northern.
The foutlicrn part having received many Greek colonies was honoured
with the ancient appellation of Magna Graecia: the centre was the feat
of Roman and Etrurian power ; while the northern was the Cifalpine
Gaul. In the middle ages the kingdom of Lombardy and that of Naples
otcupieJ the two extremities, while the church and Tufcan dates held the
Kiitre. In more modern rimes, the moll dillin^l divifion has been the
kingdom of N"aple8 in the fouth : but the centre, and the norths have
palled into various fubdivilions and denominations. For which reafons,
and the prefent uncertain itate of the country, the northern and tniddle
parts (hall be coiifidcred ratner geographically than politically ; the chief
mouth of the Po being afTinned for the limit on the' E., thence follow-
ing that river till it is joined by the Paiu»ro, (the ancient Scultenna,) up
to its fource near Calliglione ; and thence in a wellerly hne to the gulph
of Spezia, thus tracing nearly ihebor.o'jary between the former fpaces of
the church, and thole of Modena, while the gulph of Spezia, (Portiis
Lun''nli8,) almoll the eallern reach o^'the Genoefe territory, prcfents a
natural and remarkable boundary in tie weft. 'I'hefe divifions fhall be
b.icfly confuleri'd in the fncceedi'iij chapters, wlule this is dedicated to
the general defcriptum of Italy.

BoLNDAiiiKs, &C.3 The boundaries of this renowned country are
deeply iniprtfTed by the hand of nalare, in the Adriatic and Mediter-
nnean feas, and the grand barrier ct the Alps, which divide it from
France, Swifferland, and Gtnnany. The length of Italy from mount
Rufa, th'. higheil fummit of the Italian Alps, to the Cape de Leuca,
18 about 670 Dritiih miles ; while tbr medial breadth between the
Adriatic and Mediterranean is about 10 j; but from the Adige, the
recriit limit of AuUrian po%ver, ti, the eallern frontiers of the new French
departments of Liman arid Mont Blanc (formerly Savoy), the breadth
is about 200 miK's. The original population of tlie fouth confifted of
Pelafgi from the Peloponnefus ; tht- northern part of Illy rian«, who were
lucccedcd by German Gaulii ', and tlic Eirakana gf :Lc centre are fa*d

■* m

J J

503

ITALIAN STATES.

to have been of Lydian extra£t. The Romans feem to derive their
origin from the early Greek colonics ; and their language was regarded
as an ^olic dialed of the Greek : but as they proceeded from the moft
barbarous • part of Greece at an early epoch, it was a confiderable time
before their manners, rendered ferocious by inccfTant wars, afiumed a
tint of Grecian civili^ation. The fucceflive population, proffreflivc
geography, hillorical epochs, and antiquities of Italy, are familiar to
every reader, but will occafionally be briefly commemorated in the fuc-
ceeding chapters. It is almofl fuperfluous to add, that the reliirion ig
the Roman Catholic. The prefent population of Italy, with the iflands
of Sicily and Sardinia, cannot be ettimated at more than 13,000,000*
The kingdom of Naples and Sicily contains about 6,000,000* tlic
central part about 3,000,000 ; and the northern about four. The man-
ners, cutloms, and dialcds are various and difcordant, though the general
language be the Italian, edeemed the pureit in Tufcany, while the enun>
ciation is mofl: perfedl at Rome.

Face of the country.] Italy prefents fuch a variety of fcenery,
decorated with fuch noble archite£iure, and venerable remains of ancient
art, amidll a climate generally ferene, though liable to violent rains, and
fuch delicious tints of aerial perfpeAive, that the painter of landfcape is
enraptured, and can render but feeble jullice to the pifturefque fea.
tures and glowing hues of nature. In the north the fublime fcenery
of the Alps is contrailed with th6 fertile plains, through which many
claflical flreams flow inlo the Po. In the centre there arc many
marflies and flianding waters, which occafion what is called the mal
arlot or a pernicious diilemperature of the air ; but the varied ridge
of the Apennines, and the beautiful profpefts of Florence and I'i.
vo4, excite univerfal admiration. A great part of the kingdom of
Naples is mountainous ; but the country generally beautiful ; yet in
addition to the fiery eruptions of Vefuvius and Etna, it is e^pofed
to the terrible effeas of frequent earthquakes, and the enervating
firocco f .

Rivers.] Italy is interfe£ted with rivers in almoil every direflion,
of which the Po is by far the moft lar^e and extenfive. This noble
river, called by the ancients Padus and Endanua, rifes from mount Ve-
fulat oi* Vifo, on the very confines of France and Italy, nearly in the
parallel of mount Da.uphin, or Dauphinc, and Saluzzo, in Piedmont,
being almoft central between them, at the dilHnce of about eiglitcfs
Englidi miles from each. Thus defcending from the centre of the
weilern Alps, the Po pafles to the N.E. of Saluzzo, by Carignan, to
Turin ; receiving, even in this (hort fpace, many rivers, as the Varrita,
Maira, and Grana from the S., and from the N. the Felice, Sagon, and
others. Moft of thefe (Ircams having had a longer courfe than what is
called that of the Po ; the Maira, for inftancc, might perhaps be more
julUy regarded as the principal river : nay, the Tanuro, which flows
into the Po fome miles below Alexandria, might perhaps claim, in the
river Stura, a more remote fource than the Po itfelf. After leaving the
walls of Turin, the Po receives innumerable rivers and rivulets from
the Alps in the N. and the Apennines in the S. Among the former
■ay be naniod the Doria, the Tefino, the Adda, the Oglio, the Min. ,
cio ; to the eaft of which the Adige, an independent ftrcam, delcends :

• Boctfi' her.

+ Any ).< riinioit* mnA \% in Ittly nWtA/irocro, in the fouth applied to the hot blifls rnun

Aifka, lu (to uortk to Um bleak winds frvn the AI^s.

from

ITALIAN STATES*

$01

jffldi the Alps of Tyrol, and, rcfufing to blend his waters with the Po,
psrfiies his courfe to the gulph of Venice. From the fouth the Po firft
^eivcs the copious alpine river Tanaro, itfelf fwelled by the Belba,
]5ormicla, and other ftreams. The other fouthern rivers are of far lefs
jonfequence, but among them may be named the Trebbia, the river of
Parma, and the Banaro, which joins the Po at Stellato, on the wcRern
(fonticr of the former territory of Ferrara. The courfe of tho Po may
lie comparatively eftimated at about 300 Britifh miles. The numerous
tributary rivers, from the Alps and Apennines, bring down fo much
jaod and gravel, that the bed of the Po has in modern times been con-
liderably raifed, fo that in many places banks of thirty feet in height
jre nccefiary to prcferve , the country from inundation. Hence hy-
draulics have been much lludied in the north of Italy ; and the nu-
merous canals of irrigation delight and inftrudl the traveller. In the
middle ages maritime comljats took place on the Po, between Venice
andfomcof the inland powers. It is remarkable that, from Cremona to
the fea, there is no capital city founded on the main llream of the Po ;
and tiie cafe was the fame in ancient times.; an exception to the fuppo-
lition that every river has fome grand city near its elhiary.

The oth^er rivers of the north of Italy, as the Adige, the Brenta, the
Piavi, and the Tagliamento, mull now rather be regarded as Auftrian
ka:(i9.

In the centre firft appears the Amo, which rifes in the Appen-
aines, and flows by Florence and Pifa into the gulph of Genoa.
The Tiber, an immortal ftream is by far the moft coniiderable in the
middle, or fouth of Italy, rifing near the fource of the Arno, S.E. of
St. Marino, and paffing by Perugia and Rome, to the Mediterranean,
ivhich it joins after a courfe of about 150 Britilh miles. The Tiber is
faid to receive about forty-two rivers, or torrents, many of them cele-
brated in Roman hiftory ; as is Rubicon, a diminutive Ilream, now the
Fiumefmo, \Yhich enters the Adriatic, about eight Britifli miles to the
N. of Rimini. In this central part of Italy many fmalL Ilreams flow
from the Apennines, both to the Mediterranean and Adriatic ; but after
(he Tiber no river can be mentioned in this or the fouthern divifioni
whofe. courfe deferves the notice of general geograpliy.

Lakes.] Italy contains many beautiful hkts, particularly in the
northern divifion. The Lago Maggiore, Greater Lake, or lake of
Locarno, is about twenty-feven Britifh miles in lengtl;, by three of
medial breadth ; and the ftiorrs abound with alpiiir beanlics, receiving
the water? of fome other lakes, among which mull be mentioned that of
Lugano on the call. This lake formerly adjoined to the Milanefe
territory, and contains the besnitiful Boromean ifles, celebrated by
many travellers. Still farther to the eaft is the lake of Como, which
is joined by that of Lccco : the lake of Como is about thirty-two
Bntifli miles in length, but the medial breadth not abort two and a half.
Yet farther to the ealt is the fmall lake of Ifeo, which is followed by
the noble Lago di Garda, an cxpanfc of about, thirty Britifh miles in
length by eight in breadth.

Ill the central part of Italy the largcft lakes are ihofe of Perugia and
Bolfcna, with thofe to the north of Rieti. Somefn.all lakes are alfp
celebrated, as that of Albano, fhaded by trees and rocks, and that of
Nemiin the fame vicinity, about fcventeen miles S.E. from Rome In
the Neapolitan part is the lake of Celano in the iicrth ; ana that of
V;ifano, near mount Gargano. In the iflard of Sicily, that of Beverio,
"C*i- I.tntini^ is the moft remarkable.

Mountains.^

302

ITALIAN STATES.

Mountains.] The moft important mountains of Italy afe tlk
Alps, already in a great meafure defcribed, under the article of Swif^
lerland. The maritime Alps" rife from the fea to the weft of Oneglja^
and are fucceeded by other denominations, extending due north to mount
Blanc, the ancient boundary of Savoy, and now a French mountain
The moft remarkable paffage through the ma/'itime Alps is the Col de
Tende. Few fummits in this weftern chain have received particular
denominations ; the chief are mount Vifo, which gives fource to the
Po, and mount Cenis, a noted paffage to Turin. Other names are
mount Genevre, mount Ifcran, Roch Michel, &c. Li general the
vveftern Alps rife, in fucceffive elevation, from the fea to mount Blanc.
Sauffure has explained, with his ufual ability, the compofition of this
chain of the Alps *. The calcareous mountains near Geneva are fol-
lowed by granitic mixtures of mica and quartz, with argillaceous
fchiftus, and ferpentine. From mount Blanc the grand chain of the
Italian Alps bends N.E., prefenting the high fummits of the great
St. Bernard, and mount Maudit, Combin, Cervin, and mount Rofa
the laft nearly approsching mount Blanc itfelf in height. Mount Rofa
forms, as i*. were, a circus of gigantic peaks, furrounding the vil-
lige of Miicugnaga, a fmgularity of form ftrongly contralHng with
mount Blanc, and fuppofed to impart the name from fomc refemblance
to an expanded rojcf. While mount Blanc, and the adjacent high
fummits, are compofed of vertical ftrata, the moft elevated peaks of
mount Rofa are horizontal, or not inclined more than 30 '. The ftruc-
ture is equally different ; for as mount Blanc confifts of vaft maffes of
granite, mount Rofa is chiefly of gneifs, or fchiftofe granite, and other
flaty rocks. — So various are the great operations of nature, where theory
would expeft fimilarity.

From mount Rofa this grand chain continues its progrefs N.E. by
Simplon, &c. through the country of the Grifons to the glaciers of
Tyrol, terminating in the Salzian Alp«.

The next grand chain of Italian mountains is that of the Apennines,
which are at firft a branch of the Alps, feparating the plains of Piedmont
from the fea J. They begin near Ormea, in that high ridge whick now
forms the boundary of the French department of the maritime Alps, and
liretch wilhciUt any interruption along both fides of the gulph of
Genoa, at no great diftance from the fea, giving fource to many riveri
flowing to ihe north and to the eaft. In the fouth of the former ter.
ritory of Modena, after giving rife to the Panaro, and Reno, they
proceed almoft due eaft to the centr? of Italy, where they afford
Iburces to the Arno, and the Tiber, and thence pafs S.E. to the ex-
tremities of Italy, generally approaching nearer to the Adriatic than to
the Mediterranean. The noted mount Gargano is, as it were, a fpur
of the Apennines to the nortij of the gu'ph of Manft-edonia. In
general, the Apennines may rather be regarded as hilU than as moun-
tains. Ferber § found them to confift, to the S. of Bologna, of Rratified
grey hard limeltone, with a few petrifications. Yet in the Genocfe ter-
ritory, and Tufcany, appear not only the bcnutiful marble of Carrara,
but rich ferpentine, here called Gabbro, with ilealite and aibedos,
What is called granitone is alfo found, confitting of white fellpar and

green mica ||. The territory of Sienna pfefents fome granitic hills, with
ate, ferpentine, and the >ioted yellow marble with black veins, found at

• Voyai^f , ttnus v,
i Italy, 7«,

t Sauffure, viil. $4.
U lb. 250.

; lb. v. 3Q1.

Montarenti,

ITALIAN STATES.

303

i of Italy are (h^
the article of Swif^
he weft of Oneglia,
due north to mount
a French mountain.
Alps is the Col de

received particular

gives fource to the

Other names are,

c. Ill general the

feji to mount Blanc.

conipofition of this
ear Geneva are fol-
7., with argillaceous

grand chain of the
Limmits of the great
n, and mount Rofa,
eight. Mount Rofa
fiirrouuding the vil*
gly contralling with
Mil fome refemblance
id the adjacent high
)ft elevated peaks of
lan 30 '. The ftruc-
fts of vaft maffes of
ife granite, and other
naturci where theory

is progrefs N.E. by
ns to the glaciers of

at of the Apennines,
\e plains of Piedmont
ligh ridge which now
; maritime Alps, and
;8 of the gulph of
)urce to many riveri
th of the former ter-
|ro, and Reno, they
where they afford
^lafs S.E. to the ex'-
Ithe Adriatic than to
», as it were, a fpur
If Manfredonia. In
hills than as moun-
Jologna, of (Iratified
in the Genoefe tcr-
marble of Carrara,
lealite and albedos.
|f white fell'par and
granitic hills, with
tlack veins, found at

; U). V. 231.

Montarenti,

Jlontarenti, and many metallic ores ; this diftrid being, after Piedmont,
ptrhaps the richeft mineral region in Italy } but the hills feem rather
lilinA than connedted with the Appenine ridge.

Having thus briefly confidered the chief ridges of Italian mountains,
(liofe fublime features of the country, the volcanoes muft not be omitted.
Tbey only occur in the fouthern divifion, and have recently received fcien-
tilic illullration from the able and accurate pen of Spallanzani, Vefuvius
ii a conic detached mountain, about 3,600 feet. high, but feems chiefly
calcareous, like the Apennines, as it frequently ejedls marble, calcareous
(par, gypl'um, and fimilar fubllances*. ' The lava is fometimes mingled
with lelfpar, quartz, or granite, feemingly ejected from great depths.
The terrors at an eruption, the fiibterranean thunders, the thickening
fmoke, the ruddy flames, the ftony fliowcrS ejcfted to a prodigious
Wht, amidll the corrufcations of native lightning, the throes of the
mountain, the eruption of the lava, dcfccnding in a horrid and copious
Ireamof deilruftion, have exercifed the powers of msny writers, but
farexceed the utmoil energy. of dcfcription.

Yet Vefuvius, placed by the fide of Etna, would feem a fmall ejefto<l
till, the whole circuit of its bafe not exceeding 50 n '"5, while Etna
c(i\ers a fpaceof 180, and its height above the fca is c ited at about

11,000 feet f. This enormous mafs is furrounded by ...aler mountains,
fome of wliich equal Vefuvius in fize ; and while the lava of the latter
may devolve its llream for fevcn miles, Etna will emit a liquid fire thirty
miles in length. The crafer of Vefuvius never exceeds half a mile in cir-
cumference, while that of Etna is commonly three, and fometimes fix
miles. Spallanzani has minutely defcribed the crater of Etna, which
many travellers have pretended to viTjt. It was an oval, extending
from E. to W., inclofed by vait fraj^ments of lava and fcoriae ; the inner
fides being of various declinations, incruiled with orange coloured con-
cretions of fal-ammoniac. The bottom was a plain, nearly horizontal,
about two thirds of a mile in circumference, with a large circular aper-
ture, giving vent to a column of white inioke, at the bott(mi of which
was vilible a liquid fiery matter, hke metal, boiling in a furnace. Such
isthe height of Etna, that the eruptions rarely attain the fummit, but
more ufually break out at the fides. Near the crater begins the region of
perpetual fnow awd ice ; which is followed by the woody refibn ; con-
lilling of vull forclts of oak, beeches, firs, and pines, while the upper is
almoll dellitnte of vegetation. In this middle regiou alfo appear chefnut
trees of enormous Cizc. The lava and fubllances ejefted from the crater
are molUy tlie fame as are met with at Virfnvius ; but a pecuharity is,
that in many parts of the circumference of this mounlain there are prif-
matic columns of bafalt.

The idaiids of Lipari, to the north of Sicily, alfo contain many vol-
canoes, of which Stromboli is the chief. This crater is ditlinguifhed
from any other by conlfant momentary eruptions of fhowers of ftones,
whiel), from its pofition in the fide of tlie hill, are confined, and relapfc
iiitu the volcano; thus i'upplying endlefs materials ;{;. The ifle called
Viilcanu prefents a moil capacious crater : but the materials of eruption
f«:n exluuilL'd. The ifle of Lipari, containing the town fo called, pre-
fers vuil rocks of volcanic glafs ; and the hill called Campo Bianco,
'hrte miles from the town of Lipari, contains almoll all the pumices
'^liidi arj employed for various purj;of.'s in Europe. Felicuda, and Ali-
^u'la, the ivvo extreme Liparian iflanJs towards the well, alfo difplay

Firljcr, 139.

f Sp.Vkw^.'ivi, i. 195.

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304

ITALIAN STATES.

proofs of their having ahciently contained volcanoes : and recent authors
have difcpvered fimilar proofs in the ifle of Ifchiat and in thofeof * Ponza
to the north of the gulph of Naples ; while that of Capri, to the S. o^
that gulph, is fiippofed to be chiefly calcareous.

Forests.] There are ftill fome remains of forefts in feme parts of
the Appennines ; but the early civilization of Italy Jeems to have
been diladvantaeeous to the growth of timber. The woods of mount
Gargauo are celebrated by the ancient claiHcs, and the forefts of
Etna appear to be extenfive.

BoTAXv.] It is probable that the botanic treasures of Italy are at
leaft equal to thofe of any other Eu^pean country on account of the
great variety of its foil, the irregularity of its furface, arid the general
benignity of its chmate : exceptmg however Piedmont, which has been
ably furveyed by Allioni, the rell of this fine country, efpecially its
fouthern provinces, has by no means received that degree of notice
which it merits : the vale of Enna, the forefts of Apulia, the. romantic
fcencs of Calabria, and the warm fliore of the Tarciitine bay contain a
rich harvell for future naturalifts, and will no doubt grace the flora of
Italy with many new fpecies.

The Alpine barrier of the north of Italy, and the long range of
the Appennines prefent a number of plants, inliabitants of the highcft
mountains, which have already been enumerated in the botany of HviiU
ferland.

The weftern coaft has been perluipti the beft explored, and has in con-
fequence been found to be profufe of beauties : the (lately tree heath, with
two elegant (lirubby euphorbias, the evergreen arbutus, and the tamariilc,
mantle over the fummits of the cliflfs, or bend midway from them towards
the fea: the dryer rocks, and of a more fcanty fuil, are crowned with the
great aloe, while their fides were adorned with the Indian fig. The ftony
beach, and the fandy receflcs of the bays delight the eye with the fnowy
bloflbms of the caper bufli, and the gh)w of the amcthyftine eryngo, with
the lavender, the rofemary, the glaucous foliage of the ftrong fcented
rue, and the ilately growth of the lavatcra arborca.

The. fides of the ilreams are bordered by the oleander, the myrtle, the
Cornelian cherry, and the Spaniih reed, whofe tall jointed ftcm, and long
fimple leaves alnioft emulate the bamboo uf India.

The dry heathy tradh of the interior of the country are covered with
heaths, ciltufes of various fpecies, the fumach, cinnamon rofe, fage, and
other aromatic plants.

Among the trees, befides the common ones of Britain, we find the
olive, the date plumb, the llorax tree, the bead tree, the almond, the
pomegranate, tlie azarole plum, the pyracantha, the carob tree, the ilex,
the piftachia, the manna tree, the cyprefs, the date palm, the lemon, the
orange, the fig, and the vine.

Of the flowering (hrubs, and lower trees, the principal are the lilac,
the jafmine, and yellow iafmine, the fyringa, the laburnum, the Spanifh
broom, the provence role, the laurullinus, the bay, and the laurel.

In the fouthern parts, cotton, rice, and the fugar>cane indicate the fer*
tility of the foil, and the warmth of the climate ) and the fields, and p^*
tures, as far as they have been examined, bear a ftriking refemblanci' in
their native products to tliofe which have been ahready mentioned, as en*
Hvening the fouthern provinces of Spain.

ZootuoY.] The Italian horfes arc of little reputation. The cows 4

* See Dtflomtru fui ks iflci Fonccsy ParU, I78t> Svo.

i',,.:

ihc

ITALIAN STATES.

$0$

t}ie Lodezan, where the nbtecl cheefe is n6w madei vihich wa> formerly
produced near Parma, are defcribed by Mr. Young as generally of a
blood*red colour, long, lank, and ill made*. The buffalo Is ia]£ur«pe
almoft peculiar to Italy ; an animal, though tame, of ferocious afpe£ly
and as diiFerent from the bull as the afs is from the horfe. In manners
h^ fotnewhat rcfembles the hog, being fond of wallowing in mud ; his
gefh is coarfe, and his hide, though light, is fo firm as to nave fupplied
the buif coat» or armdur of the feventeenth century. Originally as is
fuppofed from Africa, he is little adapted [to any cold climate. The
marmot aiid the ibex are alfo reckoned among the animals of the Apen-
nines i and the creftcd porcupine is efteemed peculiar to the Ibuth of
italyi , ^

^ CHAPTER II.

THfe SOUTHERN PART OF ITALY. •' ' ^

Naples and Sicily t with the adjacent JJles.

V7 „ o.^.,,. -i T^HIS divifion comprifes the kingdom of

Naples and Sicily.] \^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ gj^jj^*-^ ^^.^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^

tlie central part chiefly by an arbitrary line ; nor has nature indeed marked
any precife diftinftion, except fome rivers were aiTumed as boundaries,
towards the Mediterranean and Adriatic. Sicily is about 170 Britifh
miles in length, by 70 of medial breadth : while this part of Italy ex-
ceeds 300 miles in length, by 100 in breadth'. Square miles, 29,8249
with fix millions of inhabitants.

After the fall of the Roman empire this part of Italy underwent
various revolutions. The powerful p»*ince3 of Bencvento furvived the
conqueft of the north of Italy by Charlemagne ; and with other poten-
tates in this quarter acknowledged the fupremacy of the Greek empire,
from which Sicily had been wreftpd A.D. 828 by the Saracens, who
poffeffcd it till A.D. ioc8 f . A pilgrimage to St. Michael of mount
Cargano induced the Normans to attempt the conqueft, which >vas
gradually accomplilhed, both Saracens and Greeks being expelled. The
Norman leaders became dukes of Apuh^, Calabria, and Sicily; and Roger
was named king of Sicily by the pope, A.D. 1130. The Norman luie
continued till their kingdom was fubdued by Henry VI." emperor of Ger-
many. After internal contefts Charles of Anjou became king of Sicily
1266: after the maflacre of the French called the Sicilian vefpers, 1282,
Sicily was feized by a fleet fent by the kings of Arragon, but Naples
continued to acknowledge the line of Anjou, which expired in the in-
famous Jean 138a. Rene of Anjou was king of Naples 1435, but the
French line failed in 148 1, in Charks Count de Maine, who named
Lewis XI. king of France his heir, whence the preteulion of France t<>
the kingdom of Naples. The Spaniih line of Naples and Sicily continued
till 1 7 14, when they pafTed to the houfe of AuUna } but were transferred
to that of Bourbon 1736, in the perfun of Don Carlos duke of Parma
and Placcntia, fon of Philip V. king of Spain, and of EHzabeth of
Parma} who fucceeding to the crowu of Spain 17591 conferred his

• Frincc, ii. 191.

t Sardinia wm fulxUied about th« fitme time, mtd w»i {igulucd I7 the PUiini uA
Gi'DOcfc tit Uic jrear 1016.

3o6

ITALIAN STATES.

Italian kingdom on Don Ferdinand his third fun, who 'married the fiftef
of the emperor of Germany in 1768. The kingdom of Naples has been
fince afllgned to prince Jofeph, the brother of the French emperor and
after^rard3 to Joaohim Murat, his brother-in-law.

Though the religion be the Roman Catholic, the Inquifition has been
carefully excluded. Few men of diliinguifhed geniils have recently ap.
peared in this portion 0/ Italy, which is overrun with priefts and lawyers •
but amonff the latter Giannone has dilUnguiihed himfelf by his fpirited
hillory of his country. There are no lefs than 20 archbiftiopricks, and
1 25 epifcopaLfees ; but no univerfity of any reputation. The ecclefiaftics
are computed at 200,000 ; and it is fuppofed that about one half of the
lands is in their poireflion. The government is nearly defpotic. The laws
are contained in the Codex Carolinus published in 1754. The political
importance is inconfiderahle.

The chief city is Naples, efteemed after Conftantinople the moft
beautiful capital in the world : the inhabitants are computed at' 380,000.
Palermo in Sicily is fuppofed td contain 1 30,000. Meflina was nearly de>
ftroyed by an earthquake, 1783 ; but Bari is faidto contain 30,000 fouls,
and Catanca 26,000. Belides excellent wines, oranges^ ohvcs, rice and
flax, this kingdom abounds in cattle ; and fome parts are celebrated for
the produce of manna and faffron. The manufa6^ures, particularly
thofe of filk and woollen, date from the reign of Ferdinand I. of Arragon ;
and thefe with the native produds, conftitute the chief articles of trade.
The mines are few and inconfidcrable, as may be expeded in a volcanic
country ; the chfef are near Fiume di Niil in Sicily, where there are minw
of antimony ; and fpecimens are found of gold, lead, filver and copper *.
Iron manufaftures have been recently inltituted near Naples, but the
mines and the agriculture are alike neglcdted ; and Sicily, anciently fo
fertile in grain, is now uf little account. The revenue is computed at
1,400,000!. llcrling; and the army at 40,000. There are about four
fhips of the line, and four frigates. The mountains have been already
mentioned in the general defcription of Italy, confiiling chiefly of the
Apennines which branch out through Apulia to Otranto, and through
Calabria to Cape Spartivento. Tne rivers are inconfiderahle, being
chiefly the Gariglian*, which under the na\ne of Liri may be traced from
near the lake of Celano to the gulph of Gaeta. The Vohurno palTeshy
•Capun, while the Sangro from an adjoining fource runs to the Adriatic.
The others are rather rivulets \ nor can thofe of Sicily afpire to a higher
appellation, the chief of the latter being the Himera, or Salfo, running
to the foutli. The natural ciuriufitics of thefe regioos are numerous and
intereAing, independent of the grand volcanic appearances. About fix
miles from Girgenti, and very remote from Etna, there is a fmgular vol.
oano, whicli in 1777 darted forth a high column of potter's earth, of
which there are continual ebullitions from about fixty fmall apertures f.
Spallanzaiii has explained the noted wonders uf Scylla and Charybdisj
the former being a lofty rock on the Calabrian ftiore, with fome caverns
at the bottom, wiiich by the agitation of the waves emit founds refem*
Ming the barking of dogs. 1 he only dangler is when the current and
winds are in oppulition, fo that vcffels are impelled towards the rock.
Charybdis is not a whirlpool, or involving vortex, but a fpot where the
waves are greatly agitated by pointed rucks, and the dejpth does not exceed
500 feet. The illcs of Lipari contain many natural cunofities, as the rocki
of volcanic glafs, and the fpacious cavern in Felicuda called the Grotta

♦ Dt Non. 40J.

k iti'-* ■ t

t D« Non, 940.

•f

ITALIAN STATES.

307

if the Sea Ox, which frdm an aperture of 40 feet high opens into a hall
pear 200 feet long, 1 20 broad, and 6c high *, The ftoves or warm caves
of Upiri have fuffered by neglen. The fmall ifles of the gulph of
Gaeta alfo prefent fingular f. atures. While Capri, the Caprea of anti-
quity* is calcareous, and feems merely an elongation of the adjoining
promontory ; the ifle of Ifchia, to the north, aboundd with volcanic fub-
dances f. About 30 miles to the north of Ifchia, and 50 from the Italian
ftore is Pendataria, famous for the exile of JuUa the daughter of Auguf-
tus, DOW called Ventotiene, with the fmall ifle San Stephano to the eaft.
The three other Ponzian ifles are about 30 miles to the N. W. of thefe
tv6. Ponza, the largeft, is in the middle ; a narrow ifle, extending from
^, E. to S. W. in length about four miles. Palmarola is about four
niiles to the W. of Ponza, length from N. to S. about three miles, and
very narrow. Zanone is about four miles to the N. £. of Ponza, in
bKjdth and length about one mile. In the Adriatic fea, not far from
mount Gargano, are the fmall ifles of Tremili, the Diomedez of antiquity*
To the N. of Sicily and at a; confiderable diftance from thofe of Lipari,
it the fmall ifle of Uftica, and at a ftill greater diflance from the fouth
Pantalaria. The ifles of Malta and Gozo are of far more confequence.
They are rocky and barren, not producing grain fufficient for half the
confumption of a thin population ; but may in the hands of the Englifli
prove a valuable acquifition. Malta is about 50 Britifli miles in circum-
ference, and is fuppofed to contain 60,000 inhabitants. Th« ifle of Gozo
ii about half the extent, and is rather fertile, the population being com-
at 3000, ^ ,. J.

...^ CHAPTER III. ; ,\ r '

^HB CENTRAL PART OP ITALY. ; 'j '^ 't:*

Dimieiu of the Church. — Tufcany.—'Lttcca.—St* Marine.— PiomiinOf and

the (/le 0/ Elba.

THIS portion comprehends the dominions of the church, and the
grand duchy, now kingdom of Tufcany ; with a few diminutive
dates, as the republics of Lucca and St. Marino, the principality of
Piombino, and the fmall portion of territory around Orbitello belonging
to the kingdom of Naples.

The territory formerly belonging to the pope reaches from near Pefaro to
beyond Terracina. The fecular power of she popes dates from the age of
Charlemagne, and the forged colleftion of papal refcripts, pubKflaed in the
ninth century under the name of Ifidorus, led to fucceffive accumulations
of dominion. The fmall territory granted in the eight centurV, was in-
treal'ed by the acquifition of Benevento in the eleventh ; after which there
was a paufe ; and the popes themfelves were conftrained to reflde at
AfiKHon. In 15 13 Bologna was acquired by Julius II. : the marquifate

[of Ancona followed in 153a: Ferrara I ?98 : Urbino 1626. By the
treaty of Campo Formic in I797» confirmed by that of Luneville in 1801,
the provinces of Bologna, Ferrara, andJlomagna, were ceded to the
Cifalpine Republic, a ftate btely eredied by and dependent un France.
The pontiff is elected by the cardinals, a kind of chapter confilling nomi*
nally of priefts and deacons, but in effeA of opulent ecdefiaftici, who art

Ucvated to this dignity by their fervicea to the church, by family coiUied*'

• Sptllanttal, U, 99,

x»

t Fcrbcr, Italy, 178.

tioni^

SeS

ITALIAN STATES.

tionSt or by princely reqommendation. The nature of the papal power
is a bar to induftry ; and the popes rarely attempt to reftore the country to
its former fertility, though Pius VI. made ineffeAual efforts to drain the
Pontine marflies. The eaftern provinces however are for the moil part in
a high ftate of cultivation. Almoft the only exports f^om the papal ftates
are a fuperior kind of alum, prepared at Tolfa near Civita Vecehia ; from
which place alfo puzzolana is exported, being yellowifli brown afties
containing particles of iron and mangancfe, whence it forms a ftrone
cement.

Rome is fuppofed to contain 162,800 inhabitants: and Ancona 20,00a
The revenue arifrng from the papal territory was computed at about
350,000!. fterling; but by exaftions in foreign countries wasraifed to about
8oo,oool. Yet there was a large debt, bearing eight per cent, intereft
a fure proof of the want of induftry and profperity. The papal power
feems now be fupported only by the inHuence of Auftria. The chief
river, as already mentioned, is the Tiberj which running from N. to S.
pervades the centre of Italy. The rivers flowing into the Tiber are the
Chiano from the well ; and the Nera from the eaft, which receives the
Velino from the fouth : not far to the north of Rome the Teverone joins
the Tiber, more noted for beautiful cafcades near Tivoli than for the
length of its courfe. The Velino dif^lays a noble cafcade of ab«ut 30Q
feet near Temi.

The grand duchy of Tufcany has long been celebrated for the arts •
and Florence is regarded as the Athens of modem Italy. This princi.
pality is about izo Britilh miles in length by 90 in breadth ; but od
7,040 fquare miles contains a population of about 1,350,000. Florence
long continued a difcordant republic, till the houfe of Medici, originally
opulent mercliants, obtained tlie fupreme power in the beginning of the
fifteeth century. That family, beconiing extin£l I737» was followed by
Francis duke of Lorrain, who afterwards fuCceeded the houfe of Au/.
tria in the imperial throne. Francis was followed by his fon Peter
Leopold, emperor in 1790 ; whofe fon Francis became erand duke, and
fucceeded his father as emperor of Germany in 1792 ; nis brother Fer*
dinand being appointed grand duke of Tufcany. This duchy has beea
fince united to the French empire. The revenue is computea at about
half a million fterling, but the forces do not exceed 6 or 8000. Tuf-
(cany is one of the moft beautiful and fertile regions of Italy, with a
temperate and healthy climate. It abounds in corn and cattle, and pro.
duces excellent wines and fruit. Florence cohtains about 80,000 inhabit.
ants, and Livorno (corrupted by our mariners to Leghorn) 4^,000: the
latter a celebrated port, has fupplanted tlie maritime city ot Pifa, now
reduced to a population of about 20,000. The manufaAures of filkand
velvet were formerly celebrated, and ftill maintain reputation. The
mountains in the Sicnnefe, or fouthern part of Tufcany* contain valuable
ores of antimony, copper which is wrought at Mafla, and other metals,
with (late aiid yellow marble. The terpentine of Impruneta, fevcn
miles S. from Florence, prefentv beautiful varieties ufed in ornamental
architedure *. The Florentine marble it remarkable for piflurefcjue
repre&ntations of ruins, &c. cuuled by the infiltration of iron between
the latninx. The i^rno receives many fmall flreams ; and tlic Ombrone
it a conliderable river which pervades the Siennefe.

The fmall republic of I^ucca is fuppofed to contain i ao,ooo people,
«n 288 fn^uare milci ; of which Lucca holds about 401000. It aifume J

»»V>

"' f I'ifiiVT, ■j.;0, &«

independence

ITALIAN STATES.

S09

ijiip<n<lence in 1370, the prefent arlftocratic «onftitutioh wa« ratified
in i\P > ^"^ ^" ^^^ recent revolutions of Italy this ftate adopted a
conllitution finiilar to the French. The LuccanefV are the moft induf>
trious people of Italy, and no fpot of ground is negle£led, the hills
Ijeing covered with-vines, olives, chefnut, and mulberry trees, while the
geadows near the coaft nourilh numerous cattle. Oil and filk are the
chief exports" of Lucca*. The diminutive republic of St. Marino bat
deen celebrated by many able writers. The inhabitants of the village and
mountains are computed at 5000. It.is furrounded by the dominions of
tjie popCi, and clahns his proteflion. A hermit ot the fifth century

Eve name and exiftence to this village, which grew up unmelefted on the
ly ground. In 1739, the mifcrable ambition of cardinal Alberoni,
lieiiicr difappointed in embroiling large ftates, was dire6^ed againil this'
Jyf republic, which he fubjefted to Rome, but the revenue being in-
lonfiderable its ancient privileges were reftored.
The principality of Piombnio, confifting of a fmall portion of the
Italian fhore, and the oppofite ifle of Elba, were in the thirteenth cen-
tury fubjefl to the Pifans ; and after feveral revolutions palled to the
hnilyof Apiano, as a detached principahty, in 1399. In 1501 it was
feizeo by Caefar Borgia, but after the death of pope Alexander VI. re*
turned to the houfe of Apiano. In the fixteenth century the ifle of
Elba was repeatedly ravaged by the Turks, The principality receotiy
pafled to the houfe of Buoncompagni, a Neapolitan family ; but has re>
cently been yielded to the French republic. Piombinc. is a fmall neele^led
town, the princes having generally refid^d at Rome. The ifle of Elba;
the ancient Ilva, is about nine miles in length, and three in breadth J
and has been remarkable from early antiquity for its metallic produdions,
particularly beautiful ores of iron, often chryftallized, and mingled with
native Fruffian blue. The chief iron mine is that of Rio, in the weilem
part of the ifle ; but as there is no water it is wrought near Piombino, Thit
tonarkable ifle is alfo faid to contain copper, lead, and even tin. Af*
bcfloi and amianthus are alfo among the produ£lion8 of Elba. Ttrhet,
himfelf a Swede, fays that the iron ore of Elba is equal to that of Sweden.
Tlus ifle produces excellent wine, fome oil, and flax ; but cannot boaft of
Buch fertility in grain \,

'Another froall rommercial republir, though fituated on the nftem flmre of th*
Uriuic, is often conikirrcd as an Italian flate. Kaguta has a population of about
)6,0OO, on as2 inKite miles. This Sute Iteing adjacent to tlie tenitoi^f t'orawrly belongiiig
10 ihe Venetians in Dalmatia, imiutcd the Venetiitn arillocracy, and was pruteAed by the
Tudii un condition of pathig tribute. The religion is \\it Catholic, and the fpeeih ibji
Slivonic, but moil of the inhabitnnts fpeak Italian. It is an archbiflioprlck, with fix fnf-
hgini, and its commerce is courtdcrable, as it fupplics tlte Tnrks with feveral kinds oC
iwrdisiMlIze and ammunition. Kagiifo i% an ancient city, being the nanfitun of the I<o»
Mu, and in the tenth century had b«comf» a metropolis of Dahnatia. In the thir-
I teenth centurr it was wnquered by the Venetians, and aUcrwards fubjcA fur a time tu
the crown of Hungry. The hiftory of Kapifa may be traced in tliat of Venice ;
tnd its manufadlares are of diftinpiimed beauty, hwi* ^ahnat, 4«), Itc Vttfrh-
jng, iii. 959.
fRufc|iiiig,xwi.l3«. Fejber's Italy, ao4. * ^ . .-. - ■ . ■. u.;

^«.

....:

i'^ ,' ^ i.j^li',s»j.>.

•■■« «: *i

• 1

cnA?

.m.

ITALIAN STATES,

CHAPTER IV* .i :,

' Tins NORTHERN PART OP ITALY,

PUdmon{.'-^MiUn.-^Mantucf.r-r-ParmaanJPlaneeniia.'-~Medena,^^Qettffg

THIS largeft divifion formerly comprixcd the extenfive territories
, fubje£t to Venice, and the kin^ of Sardinia, with Milan and Man,
tiia, appanages of the houfe of A uftria, the principalities of Parma and
Modena, and the long mountainous ftrip belonging to the Genoefe
But France has feized on the greateft part of Piedmont and Savoy with
the country of Nice, and the fmall principality of Monaco. This fer.
tile region was by the French coqftituted a republic under the nam*
of Cilalpine.

The moft extenfive province of this divifion is Piedmont, about kq
!Engli<h miles in length by loo of medial breadth. This principality was
part of the ancient kingdom of Lombardy, and fdrmed a part of the na,
4pal acquifitions of the counts, afterwards dukes of Savoy, and latterly
kings of Sardinia. While the revenue of Sardinia was eftimated at

with fome olives and wine, and the pafturages abound with cattle. The

vicinity of the Po however is fubjeft to fogs in the winter, and the cold

blafts from the Alps occafionally cut off the vines. Around Turin anij

through a great part of the province, artificial irrigation, or the watering

of meadows, is praAifed with great a0iduity.and fuccefs. The furroundi

ing Alps are rich in minerals *. The Alpine chain from St. Gothard tQ

Mount Cenis, is of prodiguous height, particularly Mornt Rofa, a nor,

thern boundary of Piedmont, and fuppofed to be the ancient Mens Sylvius* j

but from Mount Cenis it becomes gradually lower^ till the Appenines

branch out between Roia and Livenza, inclofing this province on the

jbuth. Thus numerous ftreams defcend on all hands to fertilize the plains, i

and the river Oreo forms at CerefoU a vertical cafcade, compute^ at ^oq I

fathoms or 2,400 feet. The copper mines in the duchy of Aofta are

nunieroDs : and iq i'ome places this metal is accompanied with antimony, j

arfenic, and zinc. In the fuperior regions near Macugnaga there are I

mines pf gold, found in marcafite and quartz : in the vale of Sefia are theJ

ffol4 mines of St. Maria and Cavavecchia, alfo containing filver. Gold f

S likewife found in the mountains of ChaUand qear the vale of Aofta J

tnd the, torrent Evenfon rolls down pebbles of quartz, veined with that

precious metal. Not far to the eaft of Mont Blanc, a rich vein of cobalt

has been recently difcovered ; and plumbago or black lead has been ob.j

ferved near the baths of Bina^. But it would b% infinite to detail I

the mineralo^ic opulence of Piedmont, which fpreadine to the fonth

of the higheft Alps, almoft' rivals the fouthern fide of Uie Carpathiaoi

in Hungary.

The chief city of Piedmont is Turin, Arppofcd to contain more than
80,000 inhabitants, with an univerfity founded in 1405' by Amadeo duke]
of Savoy, this city having been fubjefi to the family finceA.D. 109; J
Vercelli is faid to contain ao>ooo } and Alefandria 12,000 } a little to the |

*Sfe MeiBoiie deM^RotuIsat fur IsMiaendogie de Pi^o^. Joum. dciMii9||

I4O.30,

ITALIAN STATES.

311

eiftof the latter it Marengo, noted for a viAory of Bonaparte over the
Aullrians. The king of Sardinia ufed to maintain an army of about
jo,ooo. The exports confift of filk, which was chiefly manufaf^ured at
j^yons, fome hemp, and large flocks of cattle *.
Next in pofition and now in confequence is the fertile duchy of Milan,
liid to contain, on 2,432 fquare miles, a population of 1,1 16,850. The
cjtyof Milan was founded by the Gauls about 584 years before the
Cbriftian zra; and the inhabitants are computed at about 120,000.
After the fell of the kingdom of Ijombardy, it became fubjeft to th«
tinperors of the weft ; but impatient of the yoke, it was fevercly
punifhed by the emperor Frederic I. 1 162 ; who taking it after a fiege
gf feven months deftroyed the gates, ramparts, and edifices, except a
ffff churches, and fowed fait on the ruins. Recovering flowly amid
ihecontefls between the emperors and the pope, it however could BOt
^ert the form of a republic, but became fubjeft to the archbifliop, and
tothe Torriani. Napoleon Torre oppofmg Otto Vifconti, archbifliop
rfMilan, was defeated in 1277, and the prelate was proclaimed tem-
poral lord of Milan. He was fucceeded by his nephew ; and the fa-
luly of Vifconti long polFefled this opulent principality. This family
(ipired in 1494; and was followed by Sforza, and by the French
^B. In 1555, Charles V. feized Milan as a hef of the empire, and
peittohis fon Philip; whofe fucceflbrs, kings of Spain, held the
Milanefe till 1706, when it became an appanage of Auftria ; but a con-
Gderable part had pafled to the houfe of Sardinia. The revenues of this
khy are computed at about 300,0001. At Pavia is an univerfity of
|rreat repute, the profeiTors having much diftinguifhed themfelves in
ntural hiftory. It is regarded as the flrft in Italy. There are manu-
factures of wool and filk, but the latter is inferior to that of Pied-
mont: there are alfo numerous workmen in gold, filver, embroidery,
kit and in cryftal, agate, aven(urine, and other ftones, fo that the coun-
try fwarnis with artizans. Mr. Young \ represents the foil as being
chiefly ftrong loam or loamy fand ; and the moft remarkable circumftance
in tlie climate is the mildnefs and warmth of the northern mountainous
trafts, and the cold felt in the plains. Orange and lemon trees flouriflt
in the open air on the weftem fide of the lake of Como, though bounded
by the high Alps, which to the north are covered with eternal fnow ;
while in the plain of Lombardy, even to the Apennines, thefe trees re-
quire (belter. The Boromean ifles alfo in the Lago ATaggiore, are
covered with thefe delicate trees. In Parma fevere frottt ..m felt which
ate not unknown in Tufcany, and even at Rome. The lands in the Mila-
lefe, as in Piedmont, are moftly inclofed ; and the farmers were metayers
ipon the old French plan, the landlord paying the taxes and repairs, the
tenant providing cattle, implements, and feed ; and the produce being
divided between them. The irrigation of the Milanefe Mr, Young repre-
I jeuts as a ftupcndous effort of iiiduftry ; and the canals fpr this purpofe

* The ifland of SttrdinU ufed tQ he confidereJ at an appendage of Piedmont. Mr.
Voung (Fr»nce. ii. 357,) iufoniH ui, feemingly from good autliority, tliat thii ifle baa
bttn fltunefully negkilcd by the giivertimciit ; for, exclutivc of the nunintains, the
vhuir country inay be regarded ai waAc, aiidoiily cuUivatcd in a few f|)oU. The ihief
yroiifietort are abfentecs, and the peafantry cniined by rapacious ftewards 1 the number
ofinlnbiUntaaliottt 45t,000. The (requent wallet abound with wild ducks; but the
ruaber of cattle and (hcep ii deplorably fnull, and the morafles produce moft |ierni*
ciou exhalations. Tliis ifland, being now however the folc remnant of the poflefliona
lurmerly annexed to the Sardiuiaa ciowtf, will do dovtbt be benefited by the prefeaie of it^
I iwertign.

«rc

5* I't ^'i . i

^i^ '

3i»

ITALIAN STATES.

are mentioned as early as the eleventh century; fome of them being more
than 30 miles long, and near 50 feet wide. The price of land is near loq}.
the acre, and yields about three per cent, intereft. The cattle, dairies'
and cheefe are excellent ; bjit the fheep few and bad. Though the lylila*
nefe border, towards the north, on the higher Alps, and might thence
be fuppofed to rival Piedmont, yet the mineralogy has been little
explored. Yet there are fome mines pf copper and |ead aboyq the luke
of Como.

The Venetian territory has been recently withdrawn from the houfe of
Auftria, and annexed to the new kingdom of Italy. A defcriptiun of
the welKknown city of Venice would be fuperfluous : nor is it ne.
ceffary to enlarge on the well-known antiquities of Vq^ona, j^id the
univerdty of Paaua.

The ancient and remarkable city of Venice was founded in the fifth
century by the Veneti of the oppofite fliote, who fled from theincurfions
of the barbarians. At firft each ifle was governed; by a tribune, till the
year 697, when the firft dpge.was elefled. In the ninth and tenth
centuries the government of doges became nearly hereditary, but in the
eleventh the ele£^ion again became open. Tpwards the clofe of the
twelfth century the democratic form was fucceeded by an eleftion,
and adminiftratiou feverely ariftocratic, and well knqwn by its fingula-
rity and (lability. The Venetians having gradually extende<l their power
along the Adriatic, in the year 1204, became majiters of feveral Grecian
provmces and iflands ; and after their contefts with the Pifans and
Genoefe, became t\\e fii:ft commercial apd maritime power in Europe,
tjll the end of the fifteenth century, when the difcovery of t^ Cape
pf Good Hope transferred the oriental traffic to the Portugueze, who
T/ere fucceeded in maritime exertion by the Spaniards and Dutch ; andj
laftly, by the Englifh, whofe naval tranfcendancy exceeds all ancient or
modern example. The authority of Veqice dccUned with its commerce j
and the republic may be faid to have expired of mere old age.

The commerce of Venice had funk in great decline. The remaining
trade of that city qhieily confided in fcarlet cloth, and in ftuffs in-
"woven with gold and filver, fold to 'much advantage in the Levant ; and
the Venetian mirrors retain their ancient reputation ; but the city did not
exiil fo much by immediate commerce, as by t^e vai^ wealth acquired
during a long period of profperity.

The Venetian territory prefents many confiderable hills, branching
from the Swifs and Tyrolefe Alps. A minute enumeration would be
f uperfluous ; but Mount Baldo, on the eaft of the lake Garda, mi^ft not
be omitted* having become remarkable among botanills by a variety of
curious plants. Mount Bolca, fifty miles N. W« <>^ Venice, is note^ for
foflil fiih in argillaceous fcKiftus. The Euganean hills near Padua have
been fuppofed to be volcanic.

The Adige fprings frpm the Rhxtian Alps, and being jqined by the
Eifac on the E. pervades the S. of Tyrol and Trent, then flows by
Verona towards the Adriatic, which it joins only about ten miles to the
N. of the Po. The Tagliamento, Piave, and Brenta, all fpring fro\n the
Tyrolefe Alps.

The fmall duchy of Mtotua was held by thq houfe of Gonzag^, from
the fourteenth century ; but the laft of the family being put to the ban
of the empire, Mantua has been fubjei£t to Auftna fince the year 1707,
and was ruled by the govemor-genieral of the Milanefe. The capital
ftands on a lake tormed by the Mincio, and was formerly fiippofea to
contain 50,000 inha]bitaDtS| now reduced to about p^oco j the polition

ITALIAN STATESi

3»3

jiid fortifications render it a place of great ftren^h, t^e Venetian ter-
ritory tp the weft of the Adige conHlted chiefly of the Brefcian and Ber-
,;aincfe» t^e latter being mountainou? ; but theBrefcian is fertile in wine,
oi, an^ fnaize, wifh ejjccllent paft^ragea, and forae mines of copper
jiid iron.

The duchy of Modena is a remnant of the power of the celebrated fa-r
fliijy of Efte, who alfo poffcfled the aoij^cent country of Ferrara, feized by
the pope in 159B. It contains about 320,060 fouls, and! the city of Mo«
Jena 39,000 ; the revenue was i<fo,oool. The foil refembles thatof tl^e.
^uchy of Parma. The breed of ftieep is negleded^ It is remarkablet
that in digging wells near Modena, at a certain depth, a particular ftratum-
is found, which being paiTed, the water gufhes up as froni a fubterranean'
lake or river. About ten miles to the fouth of the 9apital there is an
aperture in the earth called La Salza, whenpe, particularly in the fpring
and autumn, afcend fmoke, flame, aflies, and ftones, with a ftrong fmell
of fulphqr. Cai-rara in the S. of this duchy afFo^4^ the celebrate4 marble
ufed in ftatuary.

The tefritories of Parjna and Placentia ha^e been ponjoiqed for many
jres. They were contefted by the Lombard^, and by the exarchs of
Ravenna ; and after many revolutions fubje£led themfelves to the papal
fee, whence they .were transferred by Paul III. in favour of his fon Pietro
Famefe, in 1545. This family being extin£t in 1731, after fome con-
tells, the duchies of Parma and Placentia were afligned to the Bourbon*
family of Spain, and haye lately ]>een occupied by the French. The po-
pulation is coniputed at 300,000; revenue 175,0001. Parma is a ^on-
fiderable city with fome manufadures, and an academy of painting.; the
printing prefs eftabliflied by Bodoni wa^ diftinguiflied for beautiful pro-. .
duflions. Both Parqfia and Placentia have \iniverfities. The foil is a rich
I'andy pr gravelly h)am, with fine paftures ; and the Parmefan cheefe now
made at Lodi in the Milanefe has been celebrated for many centuries *.
The farms are fmall and agriculture ill conduced, irrigation being here
little piafUfed, The ftieep are bad and the wool like hair. The improve-
(sentof the country was 'much uegleAed by the Bourbon family.

The iqiiperial fiefs, and fmaller uates in this p^rt of Italy, would little
merit defcription, efpecially in the prefent uncertainty with regard to
their final deftination. This account fliall therefore clofe with the republic
of Genoaj confiding of a long mountainous traft, formerly nqted for the.
acutenefs and treachery of the Ligurians its inhabitants. The city of
Genoa was dellroyed by Maeo the Carthaginian general, and rebuilt by
fhe Romans. It afterwards became fubje^ to the Lombards, and the
emperors of Germany ; but in 806 had feized Corfica, and in the eleventh
and twelfth centuries was diftinguifhed in the crufades, the Genoefe ren-
dering themfelves mafters of the Black Sea with ellablifiiments in the
Crimea, and even in the fuburb of Pera at Conftantinople, where they re-
mained iill the Turks took that city f . Genoa ftrongly contefted with
yenice the dominion of the fea ; and the war was not terminated till
I35i. ^n 147 1 the Qenoefe were expelled from the Crimea ; but their
maritime power continued refpeftable. The form of government was
more democratic than that of Venice, fo that the latter hud a more firm
e;cecutive efFed. Exlaaufted ty the Venetian war, Genoa offered volun- *
taryfubjeftion to France and Milan: but in 1528 Andrew Doria deliver-
ed his country and introduced a more ftable and ariftocratic government,

•Young's France, il. 148. There are iron fouud'Tiei nrar >ht Aiianninc*. Kcjf-
kr, iv. 113.

t See Gibbon, xi.|390* ■ .'i ' --^'i )> "

. ' ^ ■ ' ,. which

8»4

ITALIAlJ STATES,

wkich continued tUl 1798, when the French form was cfaofen, and tlia'
iieur ftyle aflumed of the Ligurian republic, confirmed by the recent tfcatv^
of February- 1801. Itt 1 730 Corfica revolted from Genoa, and hai:
not fince been reftored. In 1745 the Genoefe declared war againft'
the king of Sardinia, but fuffered greatly in the cpnteft. The papain
power is here little venerated, the people being immerfed in bufinefs, and
receiving monied heretics Virith open arms. The population of the terri
tory is computed at 400,000 ; of the city at 80,000. The troops, in
eluding the country militia, may amount to 30,000 ; but the powerfu
fleets have funk to a few gallies. The air 19 pure and falubrious, ani
there are excellent fruits and vegetable^ ; but the grain is not fufficieni
for the cpnfumption. The manufactures are chiefly of filk and velvet,
The Apennines, which inclofe this region, are in fomc places coven
with forefts, but in others are barren rocks, while in a few they afford di
licious pafturage. They fupply excellent marble for the proud' palaces t
Genoa ; while Polzevera in the Bocchetta yields the beautiful ftone U
^called, being ferpentine of various colours veined with marble. In ib^j
a magnificent road was made from the Bocchetta or mountains to thi
north of Genoa, through the Polzevera, which for the fpace of thr
years employed from ^ to 800 men, >by the patriotic munibccnee of 01
noble family, the Qambiafi *.

HAVING thus given a defcription, fufficiently ample, of Europ
the moft interefling portion of the globe, that of the r.
paining three quarters (hall be more reftri6ted, as the topics are ^|
nerally lefs alluring to the European reader, and in many inilance/
the materials are imperfeA. Of fome parts of America, and thj
vafi central regions of Africa, little is known ; but Aiia prefents a n
extaniive theme, and teems with fcene^ of important events in ancienlj
iiod modern hiftor;|r.

ASIA.

^ -, "T^HIS great divifion of the earth extends in length froii

ftXTENT.J J^ jj^g Hellefpont to what is called the Eafl Capej thd
is from about the 26° of longitude, eaft from London into the othe
Bemifphere to near 190 degrees of eafl longitude, or 170' weftfron
London ; being no lefs than 164°, or (taking the degree at a medial lati
tude) more than 6,500 geographical miles. From tne fouthem cape c
Malacca to the cape of Cevero Voftochnoi, which braves the ice of th
Ar^ic ocean, the breadth extends from about 2^ of northern latitude t|
about 77°, or nearly 4,500 geographical miles. If, for the fake of J
rude and merely comparative calculation, one fixth part be added for thj
difference between the ftatute and geographical mile, the length of Afij
in Britifli miles would be about 7,583, ana the breadth 5,250.

Of the vaft extent of Afia the ancients entertained molt indiftind ideas I
and in fa€t the difcovery of this great divifion of the world may be faid
to have commenced with the travels of 'Marco Polo, the Venetian, in
tbeendgfthe thirteenth century: and it was not completed} withre^rd

f Stolberg, i,aiS.

chofen, and th»:|
the recent ttcatyj
Genoa, and hai
ired war againit
eft. The papal]
i in bufinefs, and]
ition of the terriJ
The troops, inJ
but the powerfij
i falubrious, and
» is not fufficienj
filk and velvet]
e places covero
vr they afFord de
proud- palaces 0,
eautiful ftone fd
larble. In nj-ji
mountains to thi]
e fpace of thre
unibccnee of on

iple, of Europe
that of the
e topics are |el
I many inftance
nerica, and th^
i prefentt a i
events in ancieni

8 in length froij

Laft Cape; thai

into the oth^

170^ weftfron

at a medial lat^
buthem cape
es the ice of th
them latitude i{
or the fake of 1
se added for thj
le length of Afi j

250.

indiftin6tidea>|
orld may be faid
;he Venetian, in
ted| withregad

^_J

►vw**-, ^'^^ VX, '^^^-

■r J)

'\.

.. ;^-

totheesiftern <
other Afiatic (
and La Peroui
by a ftrait wh
<lifcoverer, is(
daries are the ,
particularly th
ftyled by feme
of the globe,
in the account
Original i
allowed to be
Techuks or T«
are I'uppofed to
colonies have n
fea of Kamch

Hindoftan
tempt to cole
fettlement at I
Alia prefents a
the following t
cuflion on the fi

{.INNi^AN T

Ordo.

I Aflyria

JI* Scythia
ni. Sarmatt

'^- {i„r

V. Sinse.

' Bariaric Nations

I VI. Sainoied
VII. YakuU

VIII. KorlaM.
I JX. Kamchai

I •TheP.rfitnd2
IWiUUm Joiies, Ind
|W 187, 188. ace,
I t Tliefe have a Ta(
jIuUorMandfhufi.

JjneYakmi (around Yi
|f(j>t,ii.aia,

f Tlicfe (vfenble it

ASIA.

s»y

{othe ez&em extremities, till the recent travels tlirough Siberia and the
other Afiatic dominiooii of Ruflia, and the voyages of Bering, Cook,
and La Feroufe. It is now well known that Afia is limited^ on the eaft*.
l)y a ftrait which divides it from Americat and which, in honour of the
difcoverer, is called Bering's Strait. The northern and fouthern boun- '
daries are the Ar£lic and Indian oceans, in which laft many large iflands,.
particularly that of New Holland, now more claflically and properly
ilyled by iome ./^u/lra!qfia, affords a vaft additional extent to this quarter
of the globe. The weilem limits of Afia have already been difcuifed
in the account of the eaftern limits of Europe.

Orioikal population.] The population of Ada is by all authors
allowed to be wholly primitive and original ; if we except that of the
Techuks or Tchi^tchi, who, by the Ruflian travellers and Mr. Tooke,'
are fuppofed to have paiTed from the oppofite coaft of America. A few
colonies have migrated from Ruffia tp the northern parts, as far as the
fea of Kamchatka ; and there are well known European fettlementt
in Hindoftan and the ifles to the S.E. ; but the firft ferious at-
tempt to colonize what is efteemed a part of Afia was the recent
(ettlement at Port Jackfon. With thefe and other trifling exceptions
Afia prefents a prodigious orig[inal population, as may be judged from
the following table, which will be found more clear tlian any prolix dif<«
cuffion on the fubjed,

I,ink;c:an table of the nations and languages in asia.

II.
III.

Ordo,
Aflyrians,

Scythians.
Sarmats.

TV I Seres.
^^- llndi,

Sinx.

{AfTyrians.
Arabians.
Egyptians.
{Perfians.
Scythians, intra et ex*
tra Imaum, kc.
f* Medes.
\ Parthians,

Hindoos,

fChinefe.
"(japanefe.

•■»•-■

Species*
Chaldee.
Hebrew, &c,

Armenuins \

Georgians.
Circaflians.
Northern and South^i
em, ftc. •

VII. Yakuts

I Barlaric Nations from Mrth to/outhf andMoortUng to the degrees ^flarharifm

I VI. Samoieds. Ofliacs, Yurals, &c*

Yuka^irs, (Expelled Tatars, ac-

cording to Tooke
and Iiefleps.)

VIII. Koriacs. Techuks orTchuktchi. % ,.

I IX. Kamchadals. KuriUians. f

•The Part; tnJ Zend tre cognate with the Gotluc, Greek, Latin, Kcoritnc to 9lf
William JoiNi«, Indiap Diferu vol. 1. p. 906. The Pekhvi ia AflVrian or ChaliUio*
R 187, 189. 306,

t Tliefe have aTattric funn and face t tliey are probably highly civilized Ta«n, Moo-
piliorMandlhufi.

: From the o\^it eoaft of America. Tuoke'a Ruflia. Thv. Yukaiira are a tribe of
th« Yikun (around Vakutflc) , and both tra expeUed Talan, Tooke'a View, U. 80. Lef-
||epi, II, aia,

i TlKfe nsfemble the Jajitnefc.

0rd9*

31*

ASIA.

Orio,

Cemtt

Speetet.

Mandihurs or
Tunffufes.
MonguTs.

Lamuts.

( Ruling people in
China.)

XI.

Kalmucs.

Soongars.

.; ..•■■--

. , ,

Torguts.

Burats, &c.

xir.

Tatars ev

Turks,

Nogays.
Bamkirs.

Huns* .

Khafars*

Uzes.

Kirgufes or Kaizacki

(Siberians, ,

Teleuts,

Bcfidcs thefe numerous original nations, the Malays and Afiatic illand.
era conftitute another large and diftin£k clafs of mankind| with a peculiar
fpeech, in the fouth of the extenfive continent of Afia.

fnoGRESSiVB GEOGRAPHY.] The progrcffive geography of tliij
quarter of the globe might afford an important and mterefting fub.
yH of difcuifion, if treated at due lenatn, as embracing the variouj
difcoveries which, at long interrals of time, fucceifively difclofediti
vail exteqt. The moil authentic information concerning the know.
ledge of the ancients is to be found in the eeography of Ptolemy ; but
movem commentators diiFer in the elucidation of his text : however it
appears probable that not above one quarter of Aiia was known to tU
cincients, ^nd this knowledge was little increafed till Marco Polo, whole
travels Became well known in Europe in the beginning of the fourteenth
century, edabliihed a memorable epoch in g^graphy, by paifingto
Ch^a, and difclofing the extent pf - that country, the iilandiofi
Japaq, and a faint ifitelligcnpe of other regiona« illuilrated and coo.

• After the (jeftrviAion of Attil«'« fwarms, ai\cl the effeAs of unfortunate inroadj, the
|funs became fubjeA to the Monsuls, who, under Zingia or Genghiz Khan, Timur, U.
coiiAituvcd the fupreme nation in Afia.

The great (hare of population which Europe \\an receive^ ffOm Afia will appear from tki I
following little uble :

Oido,
Celts.

|I. Fins Miicf pfxl
Xummala.)

fHWlIEWl. INHABITANTS.

rlrifli.
\ Welfli.

I Armorican.
r F^inlamlen.
< Eftlmniain.
l HungarisM.

Erfe/Mankt.
Coruiih.

Permian! or DidrmUDt.
Livonians.

Vutiucs and ChermilTct,
Vogukand OiUaca.

. , COLO^IF.S FROM ASIA.

{Icelandcni, Nonvegitu.
Swedes, Danes.
Germans.
Englilh.

l\. Sarmats or Slavons J ^^'j?;^,
(FfTun). iKoffacs.

Swife, Frific.
Flcmiih, Dutch.
Heru)i.
Vendi.
Lettcs.

Tlie Itihabkants of France, Italy, and Spain arc alfo of Afiatic orlifn j inrt ^«k
•orniptptl Roman, whic^, like the Greek, is a poliftied dialed of the (ioiliir, k-
eoidiiig to Sir William Jones and other able antiqiwries. Tlw Henili, Wrnds, iiid |
liTttflt, ufed Mixed and hnperieA dialvai vf Uit SUvouic. Criiicsl Dtvicw, vul.mu.

•"""• ' .Ml

ASIA.

3»7

firmed by recent accounts. The \ride conquefts of the famous Zin-
nis in the beginning of the thirteenth century, fird opened the dif-
very of the diltant parts ot Afia, the Monguls, whofe fovereiga
he was, being fituated to the eait of the Huns, who had before dif-
fufcd terror over Europe. The firft feat of the Monguls was in the
mountains which gave fource to the river Onon; and at a ihort dif-
tance to the S.W. was Kara-kum, the firft capital of the Mongul
empire. The victories of Zingis extended from Cathay, or tlie northern
part of China, to the river Indus ; and his fucceifors extended them
Qver Ruffia, while their inroads reached Hungary and Germany.
This widely diffufed power of the' Monguls naturally excited an atten*
I tion and curiofity, never ftimulated by a number of petty barbaric
tribes ; and at the fame time facilitated the progrefs of the traveller, who,
as in Africa at prefent, had been formerly impeded by the enmities
of diminutive potentates. By force of arms the MoDguU alfo firft
opened the obicure receifes of Siberia. Sheibani Khan, AD. 1242*
led a horde of i 5^000 families into thefe northern regions, and his de-
fcendants reigned at Tobolikoy above three centuries, till the Ruflian
conqueft*. Two European tnivellers, Carpini and Rubruquis, were
commiflioned to infped: the power and refources of the new empire of
the Monguls ; .the latter found at Kara>kum a Parifian goldfmith, em-
ployed iu the fervice of the khan ; and by Carpini's relation it appears,
that, from their brethren in Siberia, the Monguls had received fome in-
telligence concerning the Samoieds.

Thus the difcovery of Afia, which had been nearly dormant fince the
time of Ptolemy, began to revive in the thirteenth century. Yet after
the publication of Marco Polo's travels little was done for two centuries ;
and the authenticity of his accounts even began to be queftioned. One
man, indeed, of great mental powers, was imprefled with their veracity,
and in confequcncc accomplifhcd a memorable enterprize. This was
Chriftoval Colon, or, as we call him, Chriftopher Columbus, who was
led by the relation of Polo to conceive that, as Afia extended fo far tu
tlie eaft, its ihores might be reached by a (hort navigation from the weiU
ern extremity of Europe. In this erroneous idea, when that great man-
difcovered the iflands now called the Weft Indies, he thought that he had
arrived at the Zipango of Polo, or Japan : and thus the name of India
was abfurdly beftowed on tliofe new regions.

After the difcovery of America and the Cape of Good Hope, the
maritime parts and idands of Afia were fucccflively difclofed. Yet the
recent voyages of the Ruflian navigators, of our immortal Cook, and of
the unfortunate La Peroufe, evince that much remained to be done ; and
concerning the interior of Siberia fcarcely any folid information aroie, till
Peter the Great, after the battle of Pultowa, fent many Swediih prifoners
into that region and Strahlenberg, one of the omcers, publifiied ait
jccount of Siberia. This knowledge was greatly improved and increafed
by the well known genius of Pallas, and others. Yet our knowledge of
Afia is far from being pcrfeft, cfpecially in refpeft to Daouria, and uther
regions near the confines between the Ruflian and Chincfe empires ; not
to mention central Afia in general, Tibbet or Tibet, and fome more
foutlicrn regions ; iioj- had even the geography of Hindooftan been treated
with tolerable accuracy, till Major Rennell publifiied his excellent map
mi memoir., It is almoft unneccffary to remind the reader of the recent
•itlcoveries to the fouth of Afia, in wnich the interior aud fouthcru cuaft

f CiibboD, xi. 434,

5»S

A^IA.

«F New Holland remj»in to be explored ; with other defe(^s of fnjjiij.
t:onfcquence. But while many improvements are wanted in the gts,
graphy of feveral European countries, it is no wonder there fliouldlJ
great deficiencies in that of the other quarters of the globe.

The importance of the fubjef^ will excufe thefe remarks on rt.
progreffiye geography of Afia, than which no part of the fcience cm
be more juftly interefting, from the vaft extent of that portion of [\g
globe ; from tlie great variety of nations, civilifed and barbarous, [^
whom it is peopled ; and from its intimate conne6lion with the deft'inin
of Europe, which it has frequently overawed, while the favage tribes of
Africa and America can never become formidable to European arts or
happinefs.

Religions.] The religions of Afia are various, and will be illuftratei
in the accounts of the feveral countries. The climate alfo admits of evem
variety, from the equator to the Arftic fea.

Seas.] Though Afia cannot vie with Europe in the. ad vantages of
inland feas^ yet, in addition to a (hare of the Mediterranean, it poirelTet
the Red Sea, the Arabian Sea, andgulph'of Perfia; the bays of Bend
and Nankin ; and other gulphs, which diverfify the coafts muph more
than-thofe of Africa or America, and have doubtlefs contributed greatir
to the early civilifation of this celebrated divifion of the earth.

The Red Sea, or the Arabian gulph of antiquity, con ftitutes the grand
natural divifion between Afia and Africa ; but its advantages have chieljr i
been felt by the latter, which is entirely dertitute of other inland feaj-
Egypt and Abyflinia, two of the mod civilized countries in that divifion
having derived great benefits from this celebrated gulph, which fromtlj
flraits of Babelmandel to Suez extends about 21% or 1470 Britifli milec j
terminating not in two equal branches, as delineated in old maps, but in
an extenfive weftern branch, while the eaftem afccnds little beyond the
parallel of Mount Sinai.

l^he Perfian gulph is another noted inland fea, about half the lengtli
of tJif former, being the grand receptacle of thofe celebrated rivers tht
Euphrates and the Tigris.

• The other gulphs do not afford fiich ftrong features of what are pro.
perly termed inland fcas ; if the Eu.xine be excepted, which lias alreadjr
been briefly dcfcribed in the general furvey of Europe. But the vatt
extent of Afia contains fcas totally detached, and of a different dcfcription
from any that occur in Europe, or other quarters of the globe. Suchij
the Cafpian fea, exteading about 10, or 70b miles in length, and from
100 to 200 in breadth. Strabo and Pliny idly fuppofed this fea tobea
gulph, extending from' the northern ocean ; while Herodotus, manycen.
tunes before, had cxprclTcd more juft ideas. Yet the Cafpian feemsa
one period to have fpread farther to the north, where the deferts are f "
fandy and faline, and prefent the fame fiiclls that are found in the Cafpian: 1
but the chain of mountains which branches from the well of the Uralil
to the north of Orenburg, and reaches to the Volga, muft, in all age«,
have reftriAed the northern bounds of tlie Cafpian. To the eaft, this
remarkable fea, in the opinion of niofl geographers, extended, at noveiyj
remote period, to the lake of Aral ; the deferts on that fide prefentinfftbej
fame features as thofe to the north, though there be now an elevatedlfvell
between the fea of Aral and the Cafpian, occafioned perhaps by thel
quantity of fand rolled down by tlie Gihon, the Sirr, and other rivtrsj
which now flow into the fea of Aral. The northern (horas are low a
fwampy, often overgrown with reeds ) but in many other parts tliecoaftil
are precipitous, wi& fuch deep water tkat a Ime of 450 fathom willnotl

9 rcacbl

ASIA.

3«9

1 jtach tk bottom. This fea is the receptacle of many important rivers*
the Jeraba, the Ural or Jaik, and the Volga from the north ; tho
Kuma, Terek, Kur, and Kizil Ozen from the wett ; thofe from the
(auth arc of ftsall moment ; but from the eaft the Cafpian is fuppofed ftill
tj receive the Tedjen ; and the Gihon» or Oxus of antiquity, flowed into
the Cafpian, at leaft by one or two branches, till it bent northward, and
lioined the fea of Aral. Befides herrings, falmon, and other fi(h, with
" and feals, this fea produces ftenet, and great numbers of excel*

icoafti'

villiiot

reachi

I lent fturgeon, which laft in particular afcend the Volga, and fupply kaviar
snd other articles of exportation. The beft haven m tht Cafpian is that
of Baku : that of Derbent is rocky ; and that of EnfUi, or Sinfiliy not
coitimodious, though one of the chief ports of trade.

About lOO miles to the eaft of the; Cafpian is the fea or lake of Aralp
l«liich is about 200 miles in length, and about 70 miles in breadth, receiv-
igff the river anciently called laxartes, more recently the Sirr or Sihon,
ind the river Gihon, the Oxus of antiquity ; both iireams of confidera-
ble courfe, flowing from the mountains of Belur Tag, or Imaus. The
L of Aral, being furrounded with fandy deferts, has been little ex«
ilored; but it is fait, like the Cafpian, and there are many fmall faline
;e8 in the vicinity.

Another remarkable detached fea is that of Baikal in Siberia, or Afiatie

..iiffia, extending from about the fifty-firft to the fifty-fifth degree of

lorth latitude, being about 350 Britifh miles in length, but its greateft

ircadth not above 35. Tlie water is frefli and tranfparent, yet of a green

{ea tinge, commonly frozen in the latter end of December, and clear

; ice in May. The Baikal is, at particular periods, fubje£i to violent

id unaccountable ftormi, whence, as terror ie the parent of fuperftition,

robably fprings the Ruflian name of Svetoie More, or the Holy Sea *,

here are many feals, and abundance of fiih, particularly a kind of her-

ling called omuli. Several iflands appear, and that of Olchon has fuU

tiiureous fprings. The chief river flowing into the Baikal is the Selinga,

im the louth; while from the north it emits the Angara, which jom»

i prodigious llream of the Yenifei.

Of ilie other Afiatic feas a minute account would be fuperfluous ; but

few obfervations may be offered on the remarkable ftrait which divides

iia from America. This ftrait, which was difcovered by Bering, and

terwardsby Cook, is about 13 leagues, or near 40 miles in breadth.

ing, a Dane, was employed by Peter the Great in 1728, and adually

Jed this 11 rail, probably in the ufual fogs of the climate, without diU

itering land to the eaft ; but our great navigator gave the name, of the

ii(h adventurer to thefe ftraits, wnen he afterwards explored them with

ufual accuracy f . On the Afiatic (hore is the Eaft Cape, and on the

lerican that called Prince of Wales. The depth of the ftrait is from

to 30 fathoms. To the north of thefe ftraits the Afiatic (hore tends

lidly to the weil ward ; while the American proceeds nearly in a northern

idion, till, at the diftance of about four or five degrees, the conti»

IS are joined by folid and impenetrable bonds of ice.

|ln the Afiatic fcas there are numerous (hoals, or fand banks, i)ut few

them have been defcribed as conducive to human induftry.

"iVERS.] The chief rivers of Afia are the Kian Ku and Hoan Ho,

[9 more briefly called Kian and Hoan,) the Lena, the Yenifei, and

Ob, iireams which rival in the length of their courfe any others on

The Volga has been named among the rivers of Europe, to

♦T9i»k«'iVie»vi. 141.

t PeBiMiit, Arc. Zgol cbuucix.

which

32b

AStA.

which the principal part of its courfe belongs. Next ifi eonfequencj
are the Amur, the Sampdb or Burrampooter, and the Ganges; com.
pared with all which, the Euphrates and Indus hide th^ir diminilhej
heads. A more particular account of thefe rivers will be giten mid^j
the refpeftive regions. '

Mountains.] The Afiatic mountains ate faid ttot to equal the Euro.
pean in height* The Uralian chain, forming a boundary of Europe, has
been already defcribed* The Altaian chain may be claffed among the moll
extenfive on the globe, reaching from about the feirentieth to the hundred
and fortieth degi^e of longitude eall from London^ or about jlooo miles
thus rivalling in length'the Andes of S. Americjt. But as chains of moun.
tains rarely receive uniform appdlat ions, except from nations highly civj.
lifed, the Altaian chain, beyond the fourccs of the Yenifei, is called the
mountains of Sayanlk ; and from the fouth of the fea of .Baikal tie I
mountJiins of Yablonnoy, branches of which extend even to the country I
of the Teclmks, or extreme boundaries of Alia. To the fouth of tie
Altaian ridge extends the elevated defert of Cobi, or Shair.o, running ia
a parallel direftion from eall to well ; and the high region of Tibet niii» j
be included in this central prominence of Alia. Other confidcrable mm
©f mountains are Bogdo, Changai, Belur, thofe of Tibet, thetallernj
and wcllern Gauls of Hindooftan ; and the Caucafian chain between tlie]
Euxine and Cafpian ; all which will be afterwards more particularljj
defcribed. j

GovEUNMENTS.J The Afiatic governments are almoft univerfally i.j
fpotic, and the very idea of a commonwealth feemsto be unknown. Thef
mildeft fyttems are perhaps thpfe found in Arabia.

Akranoemext.] In arranging the extenlive ilatesof Afia, accordijri
to their population and relative confequence, the firll and chief rliikJ
beyond all comparifon, muft be affigned to the Chinefe empire. Butty
prodigious domination being eftranged from Europe, and having in noj
«;jfe exerted the fmalleft influence on its deftinies, it feems preferable, ii
this infl^nce, firft to confider two powerful Hates, intimately blended witlj
European policy. The Turkifli empire in Aliaconftitutes a naturala
tafy tranfition from the defcription of Europe ; and the Rufllan empire
though in population far inferior, yet in miUtary and political force tnni
fccnds that of China.

From the Rufilan empire in Afia the tranfition is eafy to that of Chiiiji
a bordering ftate ; after which fliall be defcribed Japan, and a new i
power, the Birman empire. Hindoortan and Perfia being now divideduitl
feveral diftinct fovereigntie», and Arabia containing many independei
Aates, the fcnle of political importance becomes tranhtive &nd indiilinfil
and may jultly yield in fuch cafes to mere geographical arrangemenl
Hence the fmallcr Hates of India beyond the Ganges, or betw^n Hiij
dooftan and China, will follow the Birman empire, to which, ortof
they may perhaps foon be fubjefted. A weltem progrefs leads toHij
dooftan, Pcrfia, and Arabia ;'and a Ihort account of the various inlereliij
and important illan^ls in the Indian and in the Pacific oceans, will dofet
grand department of the work. ^

. t

J *. ' I *

4. : <|

( 321 )

TUlRKEY In ASIA.

CHAPTER I.

lilSTOHICAL GEOGRAPHY.

txtrrJ okJ Bouft Juries. — Dlvlfions. — Vris'mal Pcpulatien.-' Progre^ve
Gfvgraphy. — -Ifi/hrical Epochs and Ariiiqulttet.

^ ''I "'HIS region extends from the (hores of the Egean fea,
tXTES -J J^ or Archipelago, to the confines of -Perfia; a I'pace of
about 1 ,05 o Britifli miles. The boundaries towards Perfia are rather ideal
llian natural, though fomewhat marked by the mountains of Ararat and
Elwendk In the north the Turkifti territories are now divided from the
Ruffian by the river Cuban, and the chain of Caucafus ; in the fauth they
extend o the jun£V,ion of the Tigris and the Euphrates, which laft river,
for a coiiiiderable fpace, divides the Turkifti poffeflions from thofe of the
Arabs. From the river Cuban to the jundlion of tlie Tigris and Euphrates,
may I about 1,100 Britifti miles.

DiVLsioNs.] This extenfive territory, wliich in itfelf would conftitute
an empire, could it refume its priftiiit population, is divided into nine or
ten provinces. Natolia, the moft wcUcrly, is followed by Karaman in
ahsfouth, and Roum in the north-eatt. To the north or Armenia are
Curia, or Guriel, Mingrelia, and the Abkhas of Caucafus, the ancient
Circaliians. Armenia is alfo ftyled Turcomania ; to the fouth of wbich are
Kurdillan ,and Irak Arabi, a part of ancient Perfia around the celebrated
capital, Bagdad. The ancient Mefopotamia, bet)veen the Tigris and the
Euphrates, now partly correfponds with the province of Algezira : and
the claflical name of Syria or Soria is Hill allotted to the celebrated
countries along the caftern extremities of the Mediterranean. Some of
thefe provinces are of comparatively recent acquifition ; Bagdad having
belonged to Perfia till 1638 ; while on the contrary Erivan, reconquered
by the Perfians in 1635, ^^^ remaine-l free from the Turkim do-
mination.

Thefe provinces are fubdivided into governments, arbitrarily adminif-
terei) by palhas.

OiuoiNAL ropur.ATroK.]] The original population of thefe regions
confilled chiefly of Scythic nations, mingled with a few Aflyrians from
the fouth. At prefent the ruling language is the Turkifli, next to which
may be placed the modern Greek ; but the Arabic, Syrian, Perfian, and
Armenian, with various dialects ufed by the tribes on the Black Sea,
indicate the diverfity of population.

PuOGRE.8SiVE OKOGRAPHY.J The progrcrfiivc i^eojrraphy may be traced
from the remotell antiquity to modern times ; but Turkilh barbarifm haa
prevented the precifion of recent kno^cl.'dj:^e from adding complete illuf-
trationsto the geography of this part of Aii.<.

HisToiiiCAi. EPOCHS.] The thief epochs of Turkifh hiflory liave
already been mentioned, in defcrlbing their European poflefTions. Arme-
nia ana Georgia were fubdued ly the Turks in tlr,^elev(Muh century, and
(he whole of Afia Minor rapidly followed. Their kingdom of Roum
extended from tliQ Euphrates to Conllantinnple, and from the Black Sea
to the confines of Syria. Succelfive warlike princta acquired additional
territorjr from the Maii^aluks of Egypt and Uie Perfiaus. Syria, for-

Y merly

322

TURKEY IN ASIA.

merly an appanage of Egypt, wag conquered by Selim II. in 151 6; Tau.
ris and Diarbekr, which laft had formerly belonged to Perfia, were fub.
dued by the fame monarch; and in 1589 Abbas, the great fovereignof
Ferfia» was obliged to yield three provinces to the Ottomans ; and Barr.
dad, as already mentioned, with the furrounding province of Irak Arabi
became fubjefts to the Turks in 1658. The prefent limits feem to have
been fixed by the treaty between the Porte and Perfia, 1736, fince which
period the Turks have been chiefly occupied in their own defence againll
the Ruffians ; but their afcendancy over Perfia had been fuch, that in
1727 they had acquired the territory from Erivan toTauris, or Tebriz
and thence to Hamadan, a boundary which feems indeed more precifely
marked by nature than the prefent.

Antiquties.] The antiquities of Afiatic Turkey, once the chofen
feat of the arts, are numerous and important, but have been fo repeatedly
defcribed as to have become trivial themes, even to the general reader.
The moft fplendid ruins are thofe of Palmyra, or Tadmor, in the defert
about 150 miles to the S. E. of Aleppo, at the northern extremity of the j
fandy waltes of Arabia.

Balbec, the ancient -Heliopolis, is about 50 miles to the N. W. of
Damafcus, the moft remarkable ruin being that of a temple, fuppofed to
have been dedicated to the fun.

Recent inveftigation has difclofed another remarkable fcene of atitiqui.
ties, in the fite and celebrated plain of Troy. The Simois is now demon.
ftrated to be a confiderable ftream, which runs into the Hellefpont,
nearly oppofite to the new caftles conftru6led under the order of Tott.
The Scamander which formerly flowed into the weftern fide of the Simois,
having been diverted by the Romans into a different channel, this unob'
ferved circumilance not a little baffled antiquarian refearch. The tombs
of remote antiquity having been conftrufted like the large barrows of our
anceftors, in the lading form of fmall hills, they withftood the aiTaults of
time, or avarice ; and our travellers indicate, with fome plaufibility, that
of HeAor, behind the fite of Troy ; thofe of Achilles and Patroclus on
the fltore ; and a few other of the Homeric heroes *.

Manxeks and cuj

CHAPTER II.

■ *

POPULATION, &C.

MANY of the topics aiBgned to this chapter have been already treated
in the defcription of European Turkey. The Turkifh empire in
Afia is eftimated at 470,400 fquare miles ; and the population at ten
millions ; which, allowing eight for the European part, will render the
totid 18,000,000. Geographers have, contrary to the united voice of
travellers, confidered Egypt as a Turkifli province ; while in faft it was
only occafionally tributary, and was fubjeft to the military ariftocrdcyof
the Boys. Some of the maritime Mahometan powers have likewife aflined
tlie Porte with fliips in time of war ; but cannot with anyjudice be re-
garded as fubjeft to the Ottoman fceptre. The population of thefe
African ftates is therefore foreign to the prefent consideration.

* See Morritt's Vindication of Homer, &c, \7W, 4to; Dailaway's Conftantinople, and j
DaUflU's tranilaUauof Chevalier's Memoir.

CHAP.

TURKEY IN ASIA.

CHAPTER III.

CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.

Mannei'i and Cu/loms. — Language. — Literature, — Education.— ^Untver'
fftles.— Cities and Towns.-— Edifices. — Roads. — Inland Navigation.— »
Manufudures and Commerce.

T TN ffeneral the moft ftrikinff feature of
Manners and customs.] J[ ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^ .^ 5^^ ^^^^,^

cmpirei is that half the people may be confidered as fomewhat civilized,

while the other half are paftoral wanderers, ranging over extenfive waftes.

This laxity of governoient renders travelling in Afia Minor very unfafe,

and has proved a great impediment to any exaft geographical knowledge

I of thefe regions. Under a prudent government the wandenng hordes of

1 Turcomans and Kurds would be expelled ; and regular troops and garrifons

maintained on the frontiers ; when indullry and the arts might again vifit

I this claflical territory.

Cities and towns] Tlie capital of the Turkifti empire has been
I already defcribed. Next in dignity and importance is the city of Haleb,
or Aleppo, fuppofed to contain about 250,000 inhabitants. This city-
is conftrufled with fome elegance, and the tall cyprefs trees contrafted
iwitlithe white minarets of numerous mofques, give it a moft piAurefque
appearance *. The buildings and population leem to have been on the
iocreafe, but the adjacent villages are dcferted. The chief languages are
the Syrian and Arabic. The manufaftures of filk and cotton are in a
8oiiri(hing condition, and large caravans frequently arrive from Bagdad
and BalTora, charged with the produfts of Perfia and India ; confuls
from various European powers refide here, to attend the interefts of the
refpcAive nations.

Damafcus is fuppofed to contain about 1 00,000 fouls. It was formerly
celebrated for the manufa^ure of fabres, which feem to have been con-
ilruAed by a method now loft, of alternate thin layers of iron and fteel,
jfo as to bend even to the hilt without breaking, while the edge would
divide the tirmeft mail. When Timur fubdued Syria, about the beginning
f the fifteenth century, he ordered all the artifts in fteel to migrate into
IPerlia. The manufaftures now confift of filk and cotton, and excellent
■oap. From the Mediterranean are imported metals and broad cloths :
d the caravans of Bagdad bring Perfianand Indian articles. This city
Ifo increafes, by the gradual depopulation of the villages and coun|ry,
hich iall always prelents the chief fymptomsof national profperity, or
fdine. The Pafhalik of Damafcus is efteemed the firft in Afia ; and the
ice of Pacha has, in the decline of the Turkifli empire, become in fome
eafure hereditary, with abfolute power of life and death, and without
y appeal.

Smyrna may be regarded as the third city in Afiatic Turkey, contain-
g about 1^0,000 fouls. The flouriftiing feat of European commerce,
d chief nart of the Levant trade, is faid to have been founded by Alex-
iderthe ureat, eminently diftinguiftied from all other conquerors by the
undation, and not the deftruftion of cities. In the wars between the
Wks and the Greeks, Smyrna funk into great decline ; and was taken
ith vaft flaughter by Timur in 1402. The excellence of the haven ren-

^ 1!

* Ruffcll's Aleppo.
Y2

Browne. 384, 8>c.

ders

TURKEY IN ASSIA.

iers Smyrna the centre of all the traffic of Afia Miiiur : but the frequen;
vifits of the pcftilence greatly impede its profpenty ♦.

Prufa is a beautiful city, in a romantic fituation at the norther n^ bottom
of moimt Olympus. By Tournefort's computation of families the inh^,
bitants may be about 6o,coo. It is enlivened by numerous fprings, wiiicb
defcend from the mountains, and by the proximity of the hot baths.
Prufa was formerly the chofen refidcnce of the fultans, and contains many
of their tombs. Magnifi, or Magneiia, is alfo a city of fome repute in
this quarter of the empire ; and Kireagatch has rifcn to confiderable po.
pulation from the cultivation of cotton, being about 40 miles to the
K. £. of Magniii, on the route to Prufa.

Ansora may contain 80,000 inliabitants ; and is a finking, and'agree-
able city in a lofty fituation. The trade is chiefly in yarn, of whichour
fhalloons are made ; and in their own manufadture of Angora fluffs, made
chiefly of the fine hair of a particular breed of goat«, which, like tiiatof
the cats, occurs in no other country.

Tokat is alfo a flourifhin? place. The inhabitants are computed at
60,000. The fituation is nnguiar, amidfl rugged and perpendicular
rocks of marble, and the flreets are paved, which is a rare circumftance
in the Levant. Silk and leather are manufaftures of Tokat ; but the
chief is that of copper utcnfils, which are fent toConflantinopIe,andeven j
to Egypt. The copper is from the mines of Gumifcana, at thediflance
of three days journey from Trebifond ; and from thofe of Caflan Bon!,
y«t richer, and fituated ten days journey from Tokat^ on the well towardt j
Angora f .

Bafra or BafTora, on the efluary of the Euphrates and Tigris, ftaj ,
be here briefly ipentioncd as a city of 50,000 inhabitants, and great |
commercial confequcnce, being frequented by numerous vefTels from
Europe and Afia, and the feat of an Englifh conful. Here the variout
produ6ls of Europe and India are exchanged for thofe of Perfia; and
•pulent caravans proceed to the chief cities of Arfiatic Turkey, toaH
which it is the mofl central part of oriental trade.

The great and romantic Bagdad the feat of the califs, and the fceoe
of many eaflern fictions, has now dwindled into a town of about 40,000 j
inhabitants. Not far to the fouth are fome ruins of the eelcbratn!
Babylon, which have been ably illullrated in a recent work of Major
Rennellf.

Many important cities of antiquity have funk into villages, andtna
the village often into a mafs of rubbifli, under the deflru6^ive dominatioal
of the 1 urks, perhaps the only people whofe fole occupation has beentol
deftroy. The maps are crowded with many names, now only known bj|
miferable hamlets ; and an enumeration which would feem (hort majyetl
be complete. The ancient and celebrated city of Jerufalem is reduced tol
a mean town, chiefly exifling by the piety of pilgrims. Towards tlel
frontiers of Perfia the ravages of frequent war have fpread additionjll
deilrudion ; yet Erzcruu, the capital of Armenia, retains about zjioool
inhabitants. I

Manufactures.] The chief manufactures of Afiatic Turkey havrj
been already incidentally mentioned in the preceding account of the cities;!
to which ra<iy be added the excellent carpets fo frequent in England*!
Thefe, with rhubarb and (everal other drugs, may be regarded ai I
chief articles of commerce.

*Cbandler, 65. fTourncfort, ii. 434. {Geogr^hjrofHerodotv**

Climate akd sgaso

TURKEY IN ASIA.

S^S

The Levant, or Turkey trade was formerly o^reat confequeoce to
Great Birtain j but fince the middle of the laft century has been more

advantagcou* to France. .

CHAPTER IV.

KATURAL GEOGRAPHY.

CHaafe and Seafottt.— Face of the Country. — Sol! and Agriculture. — Rivert,
— Lahs. — Mountains. — Fore/It . — Botany . — Zoology, — Mineralogy. —
Muterff' Heaters. — Natural Curiojitiet.

T T^HE climate of Afia Minor has alwava
Climate akd seasons.] J[^ ^^^^ confidercd as exceUent. There

is a peculiar foftnefs and ferenity in the air, not perceivable on the Euro-
pean fide of the Archipelago. The heat of the fummer i& confiderably
tempered by the numerous chains of high mountains, fome of which
are faid to be covered with perpetual fnow.

Face of the country.] The general appearance of Afiatic Turkey
may be regarded as mountainous ; but intermingled with large and beauti-
ful plains, which, in (lead of being covered with rich crops of grain, are
padured by the numerous flocks and herds of the Turcomans. The foil,
as may be expected, is extremely various ; but that of Afia Minor is
chiefly a deep ^lay ; and wheat, barley, and durra, form the chief pro-
duds of agriculture *. But excellent grapes and olivps abound ; and the
fouthern provinces are fertile in dates. In Syria the agriculture is in the
Lmoft deplorable condition. The peafants, though not fold with the foil,
[like thofe of Poland, are, if poflible, yet more opprefTed ; barley breadt
I onions, and water, forming their conftant fare f.

Rivers.] The principal river of Afiatic Turkey is, beyond all compa-
rifon, the Euphrates, which rifes from the mountains of Armenia, a few
I rules to the N. £. of Erzeron % ; and chiefly purfues a S. W. dire^on
i to Semifat, where it would fall into the Mediterranean, if not prevented
by a high ridge of mountains. In this part of its courfe the Euphrates
is joined by the Morad from the eafl, a llream almoft doubling in length
that of Euphrates ; fo that the latter river might more juftly be faidto
fprin? from mount Ararat, about i6o Britifh miles to the eafl: of the im-
puted fource. At Semifat, the ancient Samofata, this noble river afFumea
afoutherly dired^ion ; then runs an extenfive courfe to the S. E., and after
receiving the Tigris, falls by two or three mouths into the gulph of Perlia.
The comparative courfe of the Euphrates may be eftimated at about
1 1)400 Britifh miles.

Next in importance is the Tigris, which rifes to the north of the Medan
I about 150 miles fouth from the fources of the Euphrates, and purfues
I nearly a regular diredion S. E. till it joins the Euphrates below Korna,
I about 60 miles to the north of Baifora; after a comparative courfe of
I about 800 miles. The Euphrates and the Tigris are both navigable
Iforaconfiderable diftance from the fea.

The third river in Afiatic Turkey is that called by the Turks Kizil
jlrmak, the celebrated Halys of antiquity, rifing in mount Taurus not far
■from Erekh, but by other accounts more to the eaft, and purfuing a wind#
ling courfe to the north, nearly acrofs the whole of Afia Minor, till it

• Bjuwne, 418.

t Volncy, ii. 413.
Y3

X Teurnefuit, ii. 108.

join

326

TURKEY IN ASIA.

join the Euxine fea ibn the weft of the gulth of Sanfoun. The river
Sacaria, the ancient Sangarius, or Sangaris, rifos about 50 miles to the
fouth of Angora, and running to the N. W. joins the Euxine, about "o
miles to the eaft of Conftantinople.

In the next rank may be placed the claflical river of Maeander, rifinjj
to the north of the ancient city of Apamia, and running, in a windinjj
llream, about 2 CO Britiih miles. It is called by the Turks Boyue Minder
or the Great Maeander, to dillingnifh it from a fmall tributary llream
which refembles it in mazes. The Minder, not far from its mouth, is
about ICO feet broad; with a fwift, muddy, and extremely de?p cur.
rent, having received a conliderable acceffion of waters from the lake of
Myus.

The Sarabat, or ancient Hcrmus, renowned for its golden fands, joins
the Archipelago about 90 Britifli miles to the north of the Minder, after
a courfe of fimilar length.

The other rivers of Afia Minor are far more inconfiderablc, though
many of them be celebrated in claflical hillory and poetry.

The chief river of Syria is the Orontes, now called Oron or Ofi, riliiiT
about 12 miles to the N. ot Damafcus, and running nearly due north til]
it fuddenly turn S. E. near Antioch, after which it foon joins tiie
Mediterranean.

Lakes.] Afiatic Turkey alfo contains numerous lak'cs. That of Van
in the north of Kurdiftan, is the moll remarkable, being about 80 Britilh
miles in kength from N. E. to S. W., and abeut 40 in breadth : it is faid
to abound with filh.

In Syria what is called the Dead Sea may be regarded as a lake of
about 50 miles in length, and 1 2 or 1 3 in breadth. The lake of Rackarca,
to the fouth of Hillaand the ancient Babylon, is about 30 miles in kngtli,
and flows into the Euphrates.

Towards the centre of Afia Minor there is a remarkable falinc lake,
about 70 miles in length, and a mile or two in breadth, being the Tatj
or Palus Salfa of D'iVnville's Ancient Geography.

Numerous other fmall lakes appear in Natolia, among which may be
particularly mentioned that of Ulubad, anciently llylcd the lake of Apol-
Ionia, which according to Tourncfort is about 25 miles in circumference,
and in fome places feven or eight miles wide, fprinkled with fcvcral iOe<
and fome peninfulas, being a grand receptacle of the waters frommmint'
Olympus. The largeft iflc is about three miles in circuit, and is called
Abouillona. probably from the ancient name of the city which ftoodonit.
About 50 miles to the N. E. was the lake called Afcaniusby the ancient?,
now that of Ifnick.

Mountains.] Many of the mountains of Afiatic Turkey diTcrvepar-
ticular attention, from their ancient celebrity. The firft rank is due to
the Taurian chain of antiquity, which was conlidered as extending from
the neighbourhood of the Archipelago to the fources of the Ganges, and
the extremities of Afia, fo f;ir as diicovered by the ancients. But this
notion little accords with the defcriptions of modern travellers, or the
refearchesof recent geography ; and we might perhaps with equal jufticc
infer that the Carpal liian mountains, the y\Ips, and the Pyrenees conlli-
tute one chain. Science is equally impeded by joining what ought tube
divided, ac by dividing what ought to be joined. The Caucafian moun.
tains have been well dehneatcd by the Kunian travellers, as forming a
range from the month of the river Cuban, in the N. W., to where the
river Kur enters the Cafpian, in the S. E. The remaining intelligence
19 dubious and defective ; but it would ieem that a chain extends from Cau-

cafuS'

TURKEY IN ASIA.

3*7

fcrvepar-
t is (lui! to
ding from
angcs, and
But this
crs, or the
jual jullicf
K'ps conHi-
light to be
iian moun-

forming a

where the
nldligcnce

fromCau-'
cafus.

cafus; S. W. to near the bay of Scanderoon. This ridge feems the Anti-
Taurus of antiquity : but various parts of it were known by different
names. At the other extremity of the Caucafus other chains branch out
into Perfia ; which they pervade from N. W. to S. E., but they may all
be juftly confidered as terminating in the deferts of the fouth>eafteni part
of Perfia ; or as having fo imperfeft a connexion with the mountains of
Hindoo Koh, which fupply the weftern fources of the Indus, that it
would be mere theory to regard them as a continued chain. The chain of
Taurus, now called Kuron, perhaps from the old Greek name Ceraunus,
extends for about 600 miles E. and W. from the Euphrates to near the
(liores of the Archipelago. A recent traveller found the afcent and
defcent, between Aintab and Boftan, to occupy three days ; and the
heights abound with cedars, favines, and junipers.

Towards the eaft of Armenia is Ararat. It is a detached mountain,
with two fummits ; the higheft being covered with eternal fnow. In one'
of the flanks is an abyfs, or precipice, of prodigious depth> the fides being
perpendicular, and of a rough black appearance, as if tinged with fmoke.
This mountain belongs to Perfia, but is here mentioned on account of con-
nexion. - _

Beyond Ararat are branches of the Caucafian chain ; to which, as is
probable, belong the mountains of Elwend, which feem to be the
Niphatcs of antiquity.

In Syria the moil celebrated mountain is that of Lebanon, or Libanus,
running in the fouthcrly and northerly direftion of the Mediterranean
Ihore, and generally at the diftance of about 30 or 40 miles. The Anti-
Libanus is a fliort detached chain, running nearly parallel on the eaft.
Thcfe mountains are of coniiderable height, the fummits being often
covered with fnow ; and they feem to be calcareous, the granite
not appearing till the neighbojirhood of mount Sinai and the Arabian
gulph.

The caftern fide of the Archipelago prefents many mountains of great
height and clalfical fame, chiefly in the ranges extending from N. to S.
Of thefe Olympus (now Kefhip Dag) is one of the moil celebrated, and'
IS defcribed by Tournefort as a vaft range covered with perpetual fnow.
Manyfmall ftreatns fpring from Olympus, and the large lake of Ullabad'
is another receptacle of its waters,

About 140 miles to the welt of Olympus rifes mount Ida, of great
though not equal height. The fummit of Ida was by the ancients called
Gargarus; from which extend weftern prominences reaching to the
Halfefpont, and amidft them ftood the celebrated city of Troy ; Gar-
garus, or the fummit of Ida. being about 30 miles from the (hore ; and'
giving fource to the Granicus, the Simois and other noted Ilreams, moft
of which run to the north. To the fouth of the Minder, or Maeander,
the Taurus detaches a chain, called Cadmus and Grius, bending towards
the ifle of Cos and the Cycladcs. '

FoRKsTS.] The numerous mountains in Afiatic Turkey are often
clothed with immenfe forcft of pines, oaks, beeches, elms, and other
trees. The fouthern (horea of the Black Sea alfo prefent many gloomy
forefts of great extent. The abundance of timber fupplies the inhabi-
tants with fuel ; nor has pit-coal been explored in any part of Afiatic
Turkey.

Botany] The extenfive provinces of Natolia, Syria, andMefopo-
tamia, fince their reduction under the Turkifh yoke, have been but little
acceflible to European curiolity. The natural produdions of Syrian
however, have been inveftigatcd, though imperfedly, by fcveral natun^ift*

Y 4 of

'^i'^^.

\S ■ \ ?..'"!'

^ VI.

if''

i28

TIJRISIEY IN ASIA. ,

of eminence, while the mountains and rich vales of Natolia towards tlie
great Caucafian ^rhain are aimed wholly unknown. Thefe coimtricij
having been inhabited and civilized from the remoteft antiquity, poffef.
"fing for the moft part a dry rocky fotil, with fewer rivera than any traft
in Europe of equal extent, contain none of thofe low fwampy levels that
form fo characteriftic a feature in almoft. all the American countries
that compofe the greater part of Holland, and occupy no fmall proper.
tion of Hungary and the dominions north of the Baltic. Thofe vege-
tables therefore that inhabit fwamps, lakes, and bogs, will be very fpa,
ringly JFound in the flora of Afiatic Turkey ; nor will the indigenous alpine
plants be more numerous, not indeed on account of the ab^nce of hi?|)
mountains, but from their having been hitherto almoft entirely unexamined.
Of the fcanty catalogue of plants that have been found wild in the
Aflatic part of the Ottoman territory, the following are the moft worthy
of notice.

Among the trees may be diftinguifhed, the olive tree, ahoundin?
throughout the whole Arcliipelago and the fhores of the Levant; tlie weep.
ing willow, graceful with its flender pendent branches, which has adorned
the banks of the Euphrates from time immemorial : the wild olive, bear.
ing a fmall fwfeet cfculcnt fruit;, the white mulberry ; the itorax tree
from which exudes the fragrant gum-refin of the fame name, the pome.
granate ; almond tree, and peach tree ; the cherry, a native of Pontufin Is'a.
tolia, whence it was brought to Rome by Lucullus ; the lemon and orange;
the myrtle, growing plentifully by the iide of running ftreams ; the plan.
tain tree ; the vine, in a perfodtly wihl Hate climbing up the higheft trees,
and forming verdant grottos among its ample feftoons ; the mallich,ch;Q
turpentine, and piftachia nut tree ; the cyprefs, the cedar ; a few large
trees of which ftill remain on Mount Lebanon, the venerable relics of nj
facred forefts. Hibifcus Syriacus, diltinguiflicd by the uncommon fplen.
^our of its bloflbms, and on this account much cultivated about Conllan.
tinople and other parts of the Turkifli empire, where it does not grow
fpontaneoufly ; the fig tree, and fycamore fig, abounding in Palclline and
other parts of Syria ; the date tree, the prickly cupped oak, from which
are procured the fineft Aleppo galls ; the Oriental plane tree, highly
efteemed for its (hady tent-like canopy of foliage ; and menifpcrmum coc
cuius, the berries of which, commonly called cocculus indicus are much
ufed by the natives for taking fiOi, on account of their narcotic qua-
lities.

Of the lower trees anJ flowering flirubs the principal are the lilac,
aboimding on the banks of the Euphrates ; the yellow and common jaf-
mine, found plentifully in the thickets and woods of Syria ; tho long hol-
low ttemsof the latter of thefe are in great requcft among the inhabitaiiis,
as ftems to their tobacco pipus ; the Spanifh and thorny broom occupying
many of the fandy tradts that are of fuch frequent occurrence in Syria,
and the oleander, a common ornament of every rivulet.

Several dying drugs and articles of the materia medica, are imported
from the Levant, among which may be particularized madder ; a variety of
this called a li7.ari, is largely cultivated around Smyrna, which yields a much
finer red dye than the European kind, and to this the fuperiurity of the
Creek Hud Turkifli phIs k in part to be aftribed ; jalap, icammuny, ftbef-
ten, croton tipctorium ; riciTuis totumunis, the ftcdof which yields by ex-
prrilion the caftor oil ; l^uirting cucumber, coloquintida ; opium P^Pl'y*
and fpikciianl.

A few efrulent pliints not commonly made ufe of elfc where arc the pro.
4u<x of N'tolia and Syria, inch us llie mad-apple> Jew's mallow, and

arum

TURKEY IN ASIA.

339

arum colocafia, remarkable for its fweet farinaceous root, while thofe
of its kindred fpccie* are intplerably acrid.

ZooLOQY.] The beft horfes in Afiatic Turkey are of Arabian ex^
traft, and are fparingly fed with a little barley and minced Uraw, to ac-
ciiftom them tq abllinonce and fatigue } but mules and afle* are in more
fcneral ufe. Concerning the breed of cattle little is mentioned by travel-
lers but it feems inferior to thofe of Europe ; and beef is fcarce and
bad. The mutton is fuptrior ; and the kid is a favourite repaft.

In Afiatic Turkey appears that king of ferocious animals the lion,
\Yliich is unknown to any region of Europe, and even to Afiatic Ruflia,
Yet lie rarely roams to the weft of the Euphrates : but Tournefort ob-
ferved many tygers on Mount Ararat. He muft mean the fmall tygcr, or
perhaps tlie leopard ; for the royal or large tygcr feems to he reftrifted to
tlie wailes of HindoftaiT. The hyaena and the wild boar are known
animals of Alia Minor, together with troops ofjackals, which raife dread-
ful Clips ill the night. The cities and villages Iw'arm with dogs, who arc
allowed to wander, as a coullant defence againft llrangers or enemies.

The ibex, or rock goat, appears on the fummits of Caucafus. The
fiiiTular goats and cats of Angora have been already mentioned. The
common antelope is alfo an innabitant of Afia Minor, with numerous
deers and hares. The partridges arc generally of the red-legged kind,
about a third larger than the common Europeiin.

MiNEUAi.oGY.] The mineralogy of thofe extenfive and mountainous
provinces remains in a deplorable ftate of imperfection. Ancient Lydia
was famous for the production of gold ; but in modern times no minea
fccm to be indicated, except thofe of popper which fupply Tokat ; lead,
and copper ore, with rock cryftals, have been obferved in the ifland of Cy-
prus. The mountains of Judea, according to Hafelquift, are of a very
hard limeftone of a yellowifli white ; and tow'ards the eaft of a loofe grey
iiinellone.

Medical watehs.] The moft noted medical waters arc thofe of
fruft, at the bottom of Mount Olympus. The baths are (plendid and
paved with m.irble, with two refervoirs or rather ciil«rns for bathing,
one for the men, another for the women. The water fmokes continually,
ud is fo hot as to fcald the hand ; but in the baths it is mingled with cold
water from the numerous ftrcams of Olympus. Therp are many other
hut fprings in diifercnt quarters of Natulia.

ISLANDS BELONGING TO ASIATIC TURKEY.

I The chief idands in the Archipelago, confidcrcd as belonging to Alia,

I iK Mytilene, Scio, Samos, Cos, and Rhodes.

Mytilcne, the ancient Lcfhos, is the moft northerly and largeft of tlicfe
ih, hoing about 40 Britilh miles in length, by 24 at its grcatell breadth.
The mountainous appearance of this ille is agreeably diverfilied with h.iys
3nd inlets of the fca, and plantations of oUves, vines, and myrtle ♦. Tliert-
arc hot baths i tilling from clifls refembling thofe of St. Vincent near
Brillol, and which indicate the ifle to be chiefly calcareous. The ciiinatt-
)ii cxquifite ; and it was anciently noted for wines, and the beauty of thu

I women.

Scio, the ancient Chios, is about ^6 Britifh miles in length, but only

Ubout 13 in medial breadth. The Chian wine is celebrated by Horace,

• Dtllatajr's Coiiflantinof Ic, p 81J.

and

530

TURKEY IN ASIA.

and retains its ancient fame. The town of Scio, on the eaft fide of the
ifle, is handfome and convenient. The Greeks here enjoy confiderable
freedom and eafe : anddifplay fuchinduftry that the country refemblesa
garden. This particular favour arifes from the cultivation of tHb maftic
trees, or rather (hrubs, for they are fmall evergreens which fuppW the
gum, fo acceptable to the ladies of the Sultan's haram, or, as we term it
the feraglio. The whole ifle is mountainous. Tournefort obferved here
tame partridges, kept like poultry; and Chandler fawnumerous'groves of
lemons, oranges, and citrons, perfuming the air with the odour of their
bloffoips, and delighting the eye with their golden fruit. The Genoefe
poflefled this beautiful ifle about 24oyears, butloft it ini566. Oppofite
to Scio, on the Afiatic fliore, is Chefmc, where the Turkifh fleet was
deftroyed by the Ruffians, 1770. The inhabitants of Scio are fuppofed
to be about 60,000 *.

Samos is about 30 miles in length, and 10 in breadth. This ifle is alfo
crofled by a chain of hills, and the moll agreeable part is the plain of j
Cora. Tournefort computes the inhabitants at 1 2,000, all Greeks with a
Turkifli aga, or military officer, and a cadi or judge. The pottery of
Samos was anciently excellent ; but at prefent mod branches of indullry
are neglefted. Pitch is prepared from the pine trees iji the north part of
the ifland, and the filk, honey,^and wax are eiteemed. Moft of the moun.
tains are of white marble, and fwarm with game of various defcripiions.
The befl haven is that of Vati to the N. W. Some remains are obfervwl
of the celebrated temple of Juno f .

Cos is about 24 miles in length, by three or four in breadth ; but has i
been little vifited by modern travellers. Pliny ftyles Cos a moll noble |
ifle ; and from it was firft derived the name and fubftance of the whetftone,
It is now covered with groves of lemon trees, and there is an Oriental i
plane tree of vait fize. The chief trade is in oranges and lemons ; and I
Cob is the refidence of a Turkifli paflia J.

Rhodes is about 36 Britiflx miles in length, by 15 in breadth, an ifland I
celebrated in ancient and modern times. It is fertile in wheat, though i
the foil be of a fandy nature. The population is computed at about I
30,000. The city of the fame name, in which no Chriitian is now per.
mitted to dwell, Itands in the north end of the ifle ; and was anciently I
noted fur a colofl'us in bronze, about 130 feet high. This ifle was for]
two centuries poflefled by the knights of St. John of Jerufalcm,
thence ftyled of Rhodes, till 1523* when it was taken by the Turks; I
and the emperor Charles V. afligned to the knights the ifland of
Malta $.

Along the fouthern fliore of Afia Minor there are fome fmall ifle!., I
among which is that of Cartel Roffo, S.E. of Patira. But they are of |
no moment when compared with the large and celebrated ifland of Cy-
prus, which is about 160 Britifli miles jn length, and about 70 at it$ I
greatelt breadth. It was long poflefled by the Ptolemies of Egypt,
till it fell under the Roman power ; when it remained a portion of the
Byzantine empire, till it was ufurped by a Greek prince, who was ex.
pelled by Richard I. of England. This monarch bellowed the kingdom
of Cyprus on the houfe of Luflgnan, as a compenfation for the lufs
of the throne of Jerufalem. In the fifteenth century the heirefs of
the houfe of Lufignan rcfigned this ifle to the Venetians ; but in 1570 1

• Tourntfort, p. 281. Van Egmont,
f lb. i. noj. Dallawu^, 3,M.

§ Ib»i. 368, who gives a lung defcriptioo oi Uhodvi.

9a7« Kcc. Cliaiuller, 4S.

X Van £gmonl, i. QCl.

TURKEY IN ASIA.

,( veas feized by the Turks. The foil is fertile, yet agriculture is in a
neglefted ftate. The chief produdls are filk, cotton, wines, turpentine,
jnd timber. The wine of Cyprus is defervedly celebrated. The oranges
jre excellent ; and the mountains are covered with hyacinths and anemo-
jjes, and other beautiful flowers. Cyprus is fuppofed to have derived
jts name from the abundance of copper ore ; and it is faid to have an-
ciently produced gold, filver, and emeralds. What is called the Pa-
phian diamond is a rock cryftal, found near Paphos ; and there is a
quarry of amianthus, while feveral hills confift chiefly of talc. The
Qther mineral produftions are red jafper, agates, and umber. The Cy-
priots are a tall and elegant race ; but the chief beauty of the women
conlifts in their fparkling eyes. To the difgrace of the Turkifli go-
vernment the population of this exteniive ifland is computed at 50,000
fouls! Cyprus is pervaded by a chain of mountains, among which
is a third Olympus, (bme primitive name, which feems to have been
reneral for a mountain of great height. There is not one river in the
iiland *, that continues its courfe in the fummer j but there are many
ponds, lakes and fens, producing a damp and malignant air. The
chief cities are Nicofia, the capital and refidence of the governor, and
Famagulla f. *

!i f

I '

'"It

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.
CHAPTER I.

HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Kamis. — Extent. — Boundaries. — Original Population. — Progrejfwe Geo-
graphy. — Hiflorical Epochs and Antiquities.

rnpHIS large portion of the habitable globe extends
Extent. J J|^ almoft the whole length of Afia, from about the 37th
degree of longitude call of London to more than iqo% or 170^ of
weihm longitude. As the northern latitude is very high, the degree
[ Ihall only be affumcd at 30 miles, and the length may thus be computed
at about 4,590 geographical miles. The greateft breadth from the cape
of Cevero Voftochnoi, called in fome maps Taimura, to the Altaian
chain of mountains on the fouth of the fea of Baikal, may be 28' or
1,680 geographical miks. In Britifh miles the length may be roughly
computed at ^,^50 ; and the breadth at 1,960, an extent which will be
found to exceed that of Europe.

Boundaries.] The fartheft eaftern boundary is that of Afia, and the
fcas of Kamchatka and Ochotlk ; while the northern is the ArAic
ocean. On the weft the frontiers corrcfpond with thofe between Afia
and Europe. The foiithern limits require more explanation. The river
Cuban, part of the Caucafian chain, and an ideal line, divide the Ruflian
territory from Turkey and Perfia. The boundary then afcends along
the north of the Cafpian through the llepp or defort of ilfim, and the

• li Is faid however that t\w river Pifeopia flows, and evcti drives grill niUIs through tl\t
ffw. t Van Eginoni, i. 'iei» Mariti, &v.

caftcrn

33>

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.

eaftern (hore of the river Ob, to where it ifTues from the Altaian mom.
tains, when it meets the vail empire of China, and proceeds along tlJ
chain to the fources of the Onon, where it includes a confidcrable reijion
called Daouria, extending about 200 miles in breadth, to the fouth of
the mountains called Yablonny ; the limit between Ruflia and Chinefe
Tatary being partly an ideal line ; and partly the river Argoon whiclj
joined with the Onon conllitutes the great river A mur. Thence the
ooimdary f^tums to the mountainous ctiain, stnd follows a branch ef it
to a promontory on the north of the mouth of the Amur.

Original population-.]. The population of Afiatic Ruflla maybe
regarded as wholly primitive, except a few Ruflian colonies recently
planted, and the Techucks in the part oppofite to America, who have
been fuppofed to have proceeded from that continent, as already men.
tioned, becaufe their perfons and cuftoms are different from thofe of the
other Afiatic tribes.. Next to the Techucks, in the fartheft north, arc
the Yukagirs, a branch of the Yakuts, and yet farther well the Samoi.
des. To the fouth of the Techuks are the Coriaks, a branch of tlie
fame race ; and yet farther fouth the Kamchadals, a diftinft people, who
fpeak :i different language. The Latnuts are a part of the Mandfliurs
or Tungufes, viho have been vaguely called Tartars or Tatars, thoueli
they neither belong to that race nor to the Monguls. The Tungiifes are
widely diffufed between the Ycnifei and the Amur ; and the fouthem
tribes ruled by a khan or monarch, conquered China in the fevenleenth
century. The Olliaks, and other tribes of Samoides have penetrated
confiderably to the fouth between the Yenifei and the Irtifli, and are
followed by various tribes of tht Monguls, as the Calmucs, Biirats
^c. and by thofe of the Tatars or Huns, as the Teluts, Kirgufes, and
others. The radically diflindl languages amount to feven, independent
of many dialefts and mixtures *.

Names.] The vail extent of northern Afia was firft known by the
name of Sibir, or Siberia ; but this appellation fcems gradually to pafj
into difufe. When the Monguls eitablilhed a kingdom m thefe northern
regions, the firll relidencc of the princes was on the river Tura, on the
fpot where now (lands the town of Tiumen, about 1 80 miles S. W. of
Tobolflc f . But the khans afterwards moved to the eallern fliorc of the
Irtiih, where they founded the city of Ilker, near Tobollk. This new
refidcnce was alf« called Sibir, from what etymon or caufc is not explained;
and the name of the city paffed to the Mongul principality. When the
Ruffians began the conquell of the country, being imconfcious of its ex.
tent, the name of this wcftcrn province was gradually diffufed over half
of Afia.

Progressive GKOORAPHY.] The progreflive geography of this vail
part of Afia commences at a recent period ; nor was it oifclofed to the
attention of civiHfod Eurooe till the middle of the lixtcenth centuryt h
is indeed a fmgular circumllance in human affairs, that America may be
faid to have been difcovered before Afia, though it be natural to fuppofe
that the latter would have engaijcd a more deep and immediate intereft,
becaufe the barbarous fwarms m the extremity of Afia had repeatedly
aftoiiifhed andalmofl fubjugated Europe. It h-". already been mentioned
that in 1242 the Monguls under Sheibani elli.L''i'icd a principality in the
weitern part uf Siberia, around Tobollk and tlie river Tura, whence this

• Spf thp Hift. dcs niTmurrtes Rii(Ti'8, Jkc. ; Bprne 1779, 1*87 ; 6 vols. 9vO| lieing
an a^iJlrai*^ <»f the 'I'lavcls ol I'allas, dpi'lin, Ghioiglii, &<•.
f luokc's Rurj, ii. (j<J,

pri

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.

335

on the

W. of
re of the

his new
plained;
Vlien the

f its ex.
Qvcr half

this vaft
1 to the
iry. It
may be
I fuppofe
|intereft,
peatedly
L-ntionod
[y in the
Vice this

jncipality was fometimcs ftyled that of Turan *. The hiftory of this
diltant principality is obfcurc, and loll in the fuperior fplcndour of the other
Mongul dynailies.

In the reign of Ivan V?.filivitch, by his conqueft over the Tatars
tfteemed the founder of Ruffian greatnefs, fome incurfions were made a3
far a» the river Ob, and fonie Mongnl chiefs wore brought prif(5ners to
Mofcowf ; but more than half a century elapfed before the real conquefl
of Siberia commenced in the reign of Ivan VafiHvitch III., who afcended
j|jgP.ulfian throne in 1534. TrogonafF, a Ruffian merchant of Arch-
angel, having opened a traffic for Siberian furs, the czar was induced to
attempt the conqueft of the country which fupplied them, and in 1538 had
added to his titles that of lord of Sibir or Siberia. It was not however
till the beginning of the feventeenth century that they had firm ellablifli-
nients, and one Cyprian was appointed tirft archbifhop of Sibir in 162 1,
refiding at Tobolfk, where he drew up a narrative of the donqueft.
Towards the middle of the feventeenth century the Ruffians had extended
asfar eaft as the river Amur, but Kamchatka was not finally reduced till
tlievcar 171 1. Bering and other navigators afterwards proceeded to
difcovcr the other extreme parts of Alia. In his firft voyage of 1728,
Beefing coalled theeatlern fliore of Siberia as high as latitude 67° 18' ;
but hisimpertant difcoveries were made during his voyage of 1741. The
Aleutian ifles were vifited in 1745 ; and in the reign of the late emprcfs
other important difcoveries followed, which were completed by thofe of

Cook.

In the fouth the Mongul kingdom of Cazan having been fubdued in
1552, and that of Ailracan in 1554, and tlie Ruffian monarchy extended
tu the Cafpian fea, a confidcrahle aci^ffion was made to the progreffive
jffography by the chart of that fca, drawn by command of Peter the
Great. It hence appeared, that all geographers, ancient and modern»
liadmiftakcn the very form of the Cafpian, which extends greatly from
nirth to louth, inllcad of fprcading from t all to \VcIl, as fcirmcrly de-
lineated. In the reign of the late einprefs many important additions
weiv made to the pros^rcnive goograjihy !iy Pallas and other Icientifii:
travellers ; and a Ruffian Atlas was publiflied, which may be regarded
a? nearly complete.

HivronicAL epochs.] The Rulllan power in Afia is of fuch recent
origin, that it aflords few hillorical t pochs, exctpt thofe which have been
already inor.lioned in the progreffive googiaphy, The hiftory of Capfchak,
ortlie kingdom of Aftracan, bt-fon- and after tiie conqueft of the Mongulfi^
isobfcure and unintcrclli:)^ ; nor can that of Ca/an, or Kazan, a more
northern and barbarous ilate.claini fuperior attention. The city of Kazan
was built in 1257, and hetanic the capital of a fmall independent Mongul
principality, partly in Europe, and partly in Afia, A. D. 1441. 1 he
RulTians affert that they pofiefled Aftracan before the invafion of the
Mongnls in the thirteenth century ; but while even this is doubtful, other
parts of the hiftory of Afiatic Ruffia cannot be fuppofed to be very clear.
The acquifitions on the frontiers of Turkey and Perlla arc recent and well
known events.

As the Ruffian empire in Afia borders for a great extent upon Chinefe
Tatary, or rather the Monguls and Mandffiurs, who acknowledge the
proteflion and fupremacy ot China, it may be proper here to commemo-
nte a few events which have arifen from this proihnity. It has ilmdj

io t beini! I * '^^" ""'^ "°* ^ confounded with the Tourw (or TatMyl gf the Peifiaot.

f ■ fCoit'iRuir.Dif.p.j?:.

been

pri

334

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.

been obferved, that about the middle of the feventeenth century the Rnr I
fians had advanced to the river Amur ; here they fubdued fome Tuntru'l
fian tribes, and built fome fmall fortrcfles. The Chinefe monarch Camhi
having formed a fimilar defign, the two great powers unavoidably clalhed •
open hoftiUties commenced about 1680, and the Chinefe deftroyed th I
Ruflian forts. In Augufl 1689 tlie treaty of Nerfliinll<, fo called from I
the town in Daouria, was figned by the Ruffian and Chinefo plcnipoten
tiaries, and the limits fpecified were a chain of mountains hr to thi; north |
of the Amur, and the fource of the fmall river Gorbit/a, thence to where
that river joins the Amur, and laftly along the Argoon, or Argouiija
&c. * By this treaty the Ruffians aflert that they not only loll a wide
territory, but alfo the navigation of the river Amur, which would have
been of great confequence to their remote pofleffions in Afia ; yet the
advantage was gained of a commercial intercourfe with the Chinefe. In
1727 the limits were continued weihvard from th» fource of the Argoon
to the mountain Sabyntaban, near the conflux of two rivers with the ■
Yenifei ; the boundary being thus afcertained between the Ruffians and i
the Monguls fubjetl to China. The trade with China has been latterly
condu6^ed at Zuruchaitu, on the river Argoon, lat 50, long, uy j and
at Kiachta, about 90 miles S. of the fca of^ Baikal, lat. 51, long. log.
This boundary between two ftates is the moft extenfive on the globe
reaching from about the 65th to the 145th degree of longitude; eighty
degrees (latitude fifty) computed at 39 geographical miles, will yield the
remit of 3,j30 miles. Its hiftory, therefore, becomes fuigular and in.
terelUng.

Antiquities.] The moll curious antiquities feem to be the ftone tombs
which abound in fome lleppes, paiticiil.irly near the river Yenifei, repre.
fentiiig in rude fculpture luiman faces, camels, horfemen with lances, and
other objeds. Tiere arc found, belides human bones, thofe of horfes and
oxen, with fragments of pottery and ornaments of drefs f .

CHAPTER II.

POLITICAL CiEOGUAI'HY.

Religion. — Ecclejiiijl'tc Geography. — Government. — Laws.—Populatm —
Colonies Army. — Navy. — Revenues. — Political Importance and Re-
lations.

P - T^ HE Grecian fyftem of the ChrilHan faith, which is

KELIGION. J ^ embraced by the Ruffians, has made inconfiderable
progrcfs in their Aliatic pofleffions. Many of the Tatar tribes in the
S.W. are Mahometans ; and others follow the fuperllition of Dalai La-
ma, of which an account ftiall be given in the description of tlie Chinefe
empire But the more eaftern Tatars are generally addicted to the .Sha-
tnan religion, a fyllem chiefly founded on the felf-exi Hence of matter, a
fpiritual world, and the general rcllitution of all things +. The Sliama-
nians even believe that the Burchans, or gods themfelves, arofe from the
general mafs of matter and fpirit. Their epochs of dellroflion and relli.
tutioD fomewhat refemble thofe of the Hindoos. While common fouls
immediately receive their final decree, the virtuous become chubils, or wan-
dering fpirits, who are purified by tranfmigration, fo as alfo to become

* Co«e, ao«. Du Htldp, iv. f Dec. Ruff. vi. aio.

I Tooke's Ruflla, 1 783, iv. 42.
Burchans,

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.

335

iBiirchans, or gods. Between men and gods are the Tengri, or fpirits of

I tie air* ^'^^^ direft fublunary affairs, and all the trifles fo important to

IidJd, but beneath the moft remote attention of the gods. The infernal

Laions chiefly contain thofe who have offended the priefthood. This

|[lem is intimately conneded with that of the Dalai Lama, and is fo

Ijidely diffufed, that fome have afferted Shamanifm to be the moil pre-

Italent fyitem on the globe. In Afiatic Ruflia it is profeflTed by moft

liiationsi as a great part of the Tatars^ with the Fins, Samoieds, and

)lliaks, the Mandfhurs, and Burats, and Tungufes ; and has even p-'^'fd

othe Coriak's and Technics, and people of the eaftern ifles *.

The archiepifcopal fee of Tobolflc is the metropolitan of {luilian Afia

Id the north, and that of Aftracan in the fouth. There is another fee,

Itliat of Irkutflc and Nerfliink, and perhaps a few others of recent foun-

liition.

Government.] Siberia is divided into two great governments, that
Lf Tobolflc in the weft, and Irkutfk in the eaft. The fmaller provinces
ire Kolivan, Nerfliinflc, Yakutflc, and Ochotfk. In the S. W. is the
jfoveriiment of Caucafus, with one or two other divifions, intermingling
lurope and Afia. At a diftance from the capital the government be-
Icomes proportionably lax, and tribute is the chief mark of fubjeAion.
Population.] The population of Siberia cannot be computed at
jbove three millions and a half f ; fo that Europe can in future have little
to apprehend from the Tatario fwarms. Small Ruffian colonies have
|)een eftablirtied in feveral of the diftant provinces and ifles. The poli-
tical importance and relations of this part of the RufHan empire chiefly
relate to China and Japan.

I' m

CHAPTER III.

CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.

\ilmcrs and Cujloms. — Language. —-Literature. — Education.-^ Cities and
Towns. — Manufadures and Commerce.

I „„.. .v„> ^.,on.^»... T T^HE manners and cuftoms of Afiatic

lANNERiS AND CUSTOMS.] | d /r -..i ..u ^ -u

-* JL Kulha vary with the numerous tribes

|by whom that extenfive region is peopled. The Tatars, properly fo

Tcalled, arc tho moft numerous, not only remaining in their ancient king-

jiom of Sibir, but conHituting many other tribes m the weft, as the No-

}p, the Kir^ufes or Kaizaks, the Baflikirs, and other tribes as far as the

loarcesof the river Ob. Next in importance are the Mongul8,of whom

lone tribe, the Kalmuks, are found to the weft of the Cafpian ; while

lit others, called Burats, Torguts, &c. are chiefly around the fea of

Baikal. Yet farther to the eaft are the Mandfliurs, or Tungufes. Such

^re the three radically diltinft divifions of men, whom former European

prance claflcd under the general name of Tartars.

The manners of the Tatars, who are the fame people with the Huns

|if antiquity, are minutely defcribedby thofe authors who have delineated

lie fall of the Roman empire, prior to which period they fcem to have

leen abfolutoly unknown to the ancients. It would be fuperfluous to

titer into a detail of the manners and cuftoms of the various nations in

lliatic Ruffia, for which the reader may be referred to the works of

" Toekc'» Ruflia, 1783. iii. 42.

t Touke'i Vi«w, ii. 133.

Pallai,

KAmM

33^

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.

Pallas, and other recent travellers. In fo ample a theme the difficulty is
to feleft ; and the manners of the Mongula may be chofen as a fpecimen
Thofe of the Ruffian empire are wholly Nomadic, their herds confiUjn '
of horfes, camels, oxen, (hecp, and goats. The women tan leather di
the culinary roots, prepare the winter provifions, dried or falted, anddillH
the koumifs, or fpirit of mare's milk. The men hunt the numerous
beafts and game that roam through the vail wilds. Their tents are
formed of a kind of felt, and in fonie parts they ereft little temples and
the prielts have alfo wooden hovels around the temples. The Kalmiiks
are divided into three ranks ; the nobility, "whom they call white bones-
the common people, who are bondmen, and termed black bones ; and the
clergy, defcending from both, who are free *, In like manner the noble
ladies are called white flcfli, and the common people black flelh ; but the
pedigrees are only reckoned by the bones. The power of the TaiMa
or chief prince, confifts folely in the number and opulence of his fubjefts
territory being of no eftimation in fo wide a region. Thcfe fubjeSts form
an 0/u/s, divided into Imais, from i^o to 300 families, each Imak bdnj
commanded by a Sai/fan, or noble. If tliere be a great khan, or cm.
peror, the princes are only guided by him in aftairs of general import-
The tribute is about a tenth part of the cattle and other property •

ance.

but, on the firft fumnions, every man muft appear on liorfeback before
the prince, who difmiifes thofe who are unlit for the fatit;ues of war,
The weapons are bows, lances, and fabres, and fonictimes i'lre-arms; anl
the rich warriors are clothed in mail of interwoven rings, like that iiicd
in Europe till the fifteenth century. But they oannot oppofc rcguhr
armies, and are apt even to diforder thofe of theif -lilies.

The Monguls are rather ihort in llature, v.itli a flat vifagc, fnallob-
lique eyes f, thick Hps, and a fhort chin, with a fo;nity bc:nd ; the Lair 1
black, and the complexion of a rcddifh or yellowiHi brown ; but thatuf
the women is clear, and of a healthy white and red. They have w.
prifing quicknefs of light and apprchenlion, and are docile, hofpitaUpi
beneficent, a£live, and voluptuous. Indullry is a virtue entirely feiraio, I
yet great, and accompanied with perpetual checrfulnefs. Their relinoi!s
books are in the dialedt of Tangnr or 'i ibct, and there is a lchooli;.all;r
in every imak, who imparts more knowledge to the boys tluui wcu'dbe
cxpefted. Animal food is abundant, and fometimes mixed with vcgc-
table, while the general drink is water; but they fometin-.es induce ia I
four milk, prepared after the Tatarian manner, butter-milk, and kou.
inifs ; but mead and brandy are now greater favourites. Wlicn paf.l
turage begins to fail, the whole tribe ftrike their tents, generally fronj
ten to fifteen times in the year, proceeding in the funimer to the nortI;ern,|
and in the winter to the fouthern wilds. The herds, men, women, audi
children, form a regular proceflion, and are followed by the girls, fingingl
with harmony and fpirit. The amufements of thefe jovial wanderers!
conlVd in running races on horfeback, in which even the girls excel; ar.f
chery, wreiliin;^, pantomime, dances, and the fongs of the young \vo.|
men, generally accompanied by the lute, viol, and pipe, the themes ofj
their ditties beinir gigantic tales of chivalry, and amorous adventures aniij
fentimcnts ; but the melody is harfli and difmal. Cards are not unknown,!
bilt chefs is the favourite yame.

Mr. Tooke has printed lome curious pieces of Kalmuk poetry, froml
which a charadlerifUc fpecimen fhall be felcdled, being an elegy on thej

• 'lonkt, iv. 14.

f The c)c alcendlnc towardii the tcnplcs, like the Chinefe, feems a peculiar feature
the M<ni;iul» aud Mundihurs, Tlic Taur eye u Onall^ hut [U'»tt, or hoiitutital.

t fcceHoil

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.

feitlTion of a hord on the Volga, which, difgufted by the
nation, fought the proteftion of China * :

337
.Ilan d^^oM*

« The water of the vaft ocean,
When it has raged with all its fury, ^becalms itfi*lf again ;
Tliis is the courfe of the world ; and like wife Hill to forget,
Yc white herds, with the mark of Schxbiner !
Thou prince Schere.ig, in the van as condudlor.
Riding on thy noble rcddifli bay horfe ;
The prince Zebek following with his numerous troop,
Ah ! Ubafchakhan, conduct as now the Torgots !
There over rocks, over ftones, and rough places,
The herds drag themfelves along, and become lean,
By flying over the land all covered with fnow and froft.
Ah ! how the droves trot over the fnow !
Now you are got thither and come to your refting place.
Why was there any quarrel between thee and the white khan f ?
Ye othcrwife peaceful Torgots between the Yaik and the Volga,
How far ye now retreat !

Ah! the beautiful Volga (Idftiel) is abandoned by the Torgot.
Ah ! the lovely ftream of Muzak is now likewife become an orphan.
All ! thy many excellent young princes,
Ye are now all marched far away over the Yaik.
Ah ! thou well arranged troop of Torgots,
Art now perhaps arrived at the Irtifch (Ertfchis).
Ah ! helplefs„ lamentable time !

Thou excellent hod of warriors marcluiig towards Altai,
Ye have no' princely women among you !
Fare ye well, ye who bring up the rear of the hord.
Princes Akfakal and Kirep !"

Such, with fome flight fliades of difference, are alfo the manners of the
Tatars and Mandfhurs.

The three diftindt barbaric nations of Tatars, Monguls, and Tun-
gufes, or Mandfluirs, are bv far the mud interefting in thcfe middle re-
gions of Afin, as their anceftors have overturned tbe greateft empires,
and repeatedly influenced the deftiny of half the globe. The vague
name of Tartary is nearly difcarded from our maps, and might yield
with far greater prccifion to names derived from the feats of the chief
nations, as Tungulia, or Mandfhuria, in the eail, Mongolia in the centre,
andTataria in the weft. Of tliefe the Monguls arc the chief people, and
the account already given of their manners will fuflice to impart an idea
of the ethical condition of Aliatic Ruflia.

Language.] The languages of all tlicfe original nations arc radically
different ; and among the Tungufes, Monguls, and Tatars, there are
fome flight traces of literature : and not a few manufcripts in their feveral
languages. The hiftory of the Tatars, by Abulgali, is a favourable fpe«
cimen of Tataric compofition. The late emperor of China ordered many
of the bed Chinefe works to be tranflated into the Mandftiur language,
which, having an alphabet, may be more eafily acquired than the original.
In the Mongul language there are alfo many books, written in the various

' " ' . ' ■.

• Ruflia, 1793, 4 voU. flvo. vol. iv. p. 66,

t Ztj^nKhalan, the iiawe bjf which the RuiCan moQucb i« knowp anong almoft all
t])e ;alUtu luuous, .

2 countries

33S

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.

countries to which their wide conquefts extended. Superior, even atnid
their barbarifm, to the chief original nations of Africa and America, tlie
central races of Alia deferve an attention which has been laviflied upon
inferior objeAs.

Cities and towns.] In AHatic Rullia the principal city is Aftra.
can, at the mouth of the Volga, which is fuppofed to contain 70,000
ihhabitants. This city was founded by the Monguls of Kipfchak, yet
fome aflert that the Ruflians built Aftracan beforo Batu, the Mongulcoij.
queror, feized this region. In 1554 the Monguls were expelled. Aftra.
can is built on feveral fmall hills, that rife amidthe meadows of the VoW
The fortrefs on the well is triangular, but the walls of the city are nei
gle<Etcd. The wooden houfes have expofed it to frequent conflagrations
and attempts have been vainly made to enforce the ufe of brick. Vines
are cultivated in the neighbourhood, and other fruits abound. There are
twenty-five Ruffian churches, and two convents. The Armenians, Lu.
therans, and Papifts, have alfo their places of worlhip ; and even the
Hindoos have been permitted to ereft a temple *. The chief trade of
Aftracan is in fait and fi(h, particularly fturgeon and .kaviar from the
Volga ; and it alfo attracts fome portion of oriental commerce. The
flfliery on the Cafpian, which centers at Aftracan, is efteemed of the
titmoft confequence to the empire.

Azof, on the Aliatic fide of the Don, is of fmall importance, ex.
eept as a fortified poll. The chief towns on the Afiatic fide of the
Volga are Samara and Stauropol. At the mouth of the river Ural,
or Jaik, ftands Gurief ; but the chief place after Aftracan is Oren.
burg, founded in tlif year 1740, to proteft the acquifitions in thefe parts, j
and promote their commerce. Nor have thefe views failed, for Oren.
bnrg is the feat of a confiderable trade with the tribes on the eaftofthe ;
Cafpian.

On pafllng the Uralian chain, firft occurs the city of Tobollk, which
only contains about 15,000 foul«, but is efteemed the capital of Sibe. I
ria. Being mo(l!y built of wood, it was nearly confumed by a violent
fire about 17.S6; hut, it is believed, is now rebuilt, chiefly of ftone.
Tobollk is more didinguifhed as the refidence of the governor and arch- '■
bifhop than for tli'* importance of its commerce. The upper town ftandi
oil a hill, on th* eail llde of the Irtifli, and contains a Itone fortrefs of fome |
ftrength. Indian goods are brought hither by Kalmuck and Bucharian 1
merchants, and provilions nrc cheap and plentiful.

Kolyvan is a town of fome confcquencc on the river Ob. In the j
neighbourltood there are lilver mines of conliderable produce. To the |
north of Kolyvan is Tomfl<, faid to contain about 8000 fouls.

Farther to the eaft the towns become of lefs confequence, b'.l a |
village attracts attention vhen fituated in a defert. On the river Ye-
nifei is a fmall towu of the fame name, and another called Sayanik, I
whence tlic adjacent part of the Altaian chain is culled the mountains oH
^ayanflc.

On the river Angara, wVich iffucs from the fea of Baikal, ftands Ir.
kutflc, fuppofed to contain 12,000 inhabitants. There are fevcrail
churches and other edifices of ftone, and the wooden houfcs are large
and convenient. Irkutlk is the chief mart of th« commerce be- 1
tueen Ruflia and China, the fee of an archbidiop, and t1ie feat ofl
fuprerae jurifdiftion over Eaftern Siberia f . The numerous ofEcenf
4nd magiftrates have introduced the cuftoms and fafliions of Feterl>i

• Towlt'j null*, iv. 541,

f Lcffopi, ii. 314.

kiirj,

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.

339

burgi and European equipages are not uncommon in this diftant re*
gion.

On the wide and froaen Lena ftands Yakutfk, with fome fton*
churches, but the houfes are moftly of Avood, and inhabited chiefly hf
Ruffians, as the Yakuts are fond of a wandering life. The Lena is
here about two leagues in width, ^though about 700 miles from its
mouth,) but is greatly impeded with ice ; and there are only a few fmall
barks, chiefly employed in fupplying the town with provilions. Ochotflc*
on the fea oJF the fame name, may be rather regarded as a ilation than a

town.

Manufactures.] There are fome manufaflures, particularly irt
leather, at Aftracan ; and fait is prepared there, and in feveral other
places in Afiatic Ruflia. Ifmglafs is chiefly mannfaftured on the fliored
of the Cafpian, from the founds or air-bladder of the fturgeon, and
the beluga. Kaviar is the faked roe of large fi(h. There is a confi-
derable fabric of nitre, about 40 miles to the N. of Ailracan. Thp
Tatars and fiafhkirs make felts of a larj^e fize, fome of which ar»
tjported. The Ruflia leather is chiefly fabricated in the European
provinces, being tanned with willow bark, and afterwards ftained.
Shagreen is prepared from the hides of horfes or afles, but only a
particular part of the back is fit for this purpofe ; and the grain is
ffiven with the hard feeds of the greater orach, prelt into the leather
while moift *. Pitch is made by tne boors from the pines of Siberia.
Kear the Uralian mountains are feveral manufa£turcs in iron and

CoMMEnc6.3 The chief commerce of this part of the Riifllan em*
pire confiits in fables, and other valuable furs, which are eagerly bought
bjtheChinefe, who return tea, filk, and porcelain: that with the Kir-
nifes it carried on by exch:Aging Ruflian woollen cloths, iron, and
loufehold articles, for horfes, cattle, fheep, and beautiful flieep-lkins.
On the Black Sea there is fome commerce with Turkey, the exports
being furs, kaviar, iron, linen, &c. and the imports, wine, Fruity
coffee, filks, rice. In the trade on the Cafpian the exports are the
fame, but the return chiefly filk. The principal Ruflian harbours
areAftracan, Gorief, and Kifliur, near the mouth of the Terek, but
the bed haven is Baku, belonging to the Perfians. The Tatars, 0!|
theeail of the Cafpian, bring the products of their country, and of
Bucharia, as cotton yam, furs, iluns, hides, rhubarb ; but the chief
irticle is raw filk from Shirvan and Ghilan, on the welt of the

'afpian. " ' ' . .

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL OEOCRAPIIl|

pmte and Sea/ont.-- Face of the Countfy.'— Soil and Agrleuitun^r-^ Rheft'
—Lakes.-— Mountains, —Fore/Is. —^Botany. -*— Zoology -^Mineralogy , —«
Mineral IVatert.

^ TN Afiatic Ruflia the climate extends from
, '^ X the vine at the bottom of Caucafus, to

w folitary lidien on the rocks of the Arftic ocean. "J'hrough th^

Climate and seasons

• T«okt'* Vifw, ill, sat,
% 2

greiter

fwBS

340

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.

greater part of Siberia, the moil fouthern frdntier being about jo"
while the nerthern afcends to 78^ the general climate may more jullly
be regarded as frigid than temperate ; being, in three quarters of the
coHiitiy, on a level with that of Norway and Lapland, untempered bv
the gales of the Atlantic. To the fouthof the fea of Baikid the climate
parallels that of Berlin and the north of Germany, fo that the fmell
and mod fertile regions in Middle Alia belong to the Chinefe. The
chains of high mountains, which form the fouthern boundary oftliefp
provinces, alio contribute to increafe the cold ; and the fea of Baikal
IS commonly entirely frozen from December till May. The llneft
climate in thefe ealtern parts feems to be that of Daouria, or tlic
province around Nerfliinik ; and the numerous town? on the Atnnr I
evince the great fuperiority of what is called Chinefe Tatary, whidj is
comparatively a fertile and temperate region. The change of the fea.
fons is very rapid ; the long winter is almoil inftantaueoufly fucceeded by
a warm fpring, and the quicknefs and luxuriance of the vegetation ex*
ceed defcription.

Fack of the country.] In a general view of Afiatic Ruffia, the]
northern and eaftern parts prefent vail marihy plains, covered with al-
moil perpetual fnow, and pervaded by enormous rivers, which, under I
inalfcs of ice, purfuc their dreary way to the Arctic ocean. Even tlie I
central parts of Siberia feem deditute of trees, vegetation being checked I
by the fcvere cold of fo wide a continent. Towards the fouthtlieril
are vail foreils. The fiiblime fcencs around the fea of Baikal are agrci'.
ably contrafted with the marks of human indnilry, the cultivated lioldl
and the garden *. Even in the foutli, the rivers have already acqiiiredl
tlu' fi/.c of the Danube and the Rhine, and they are navigable wiij
fafety for a great extent. The vail plains called lleppes conllitute a|
feature almoil peculiarly Afiatic ; but the mountuins do not corrcfpccdl
in dignity, rather rcfcnibUng the Apennines than the Alps, orcvcntbel
Pyrenees,

Soil AND AGRiciLTL'HF.] Many parts of Siberia are totally inca-l
pable of agriculture ; but in the fouthern and wellcrn dillricls the foil i$|
of remarkable fcrtihty. Toward tlie north of Kolyvan barley geiifrallrl
yields more than twelve fold, and oats commonly twenty fold. £iid|
vheat, in this black light mould, is apt to run into ilalk, but fown
the poorell fpots yields from twelve to fifteen fold. Exclufive ofwinterl
wheat, moil of the ufual European grains profpcr in fontliern Sibe-
ria. The culture of tlu.* olive tree has been <>tlemptcd near Aitracai
and the heat of the fumtncr wa» fufllcient, hut the winter cold too fJ
vcre. The bell rhubarb abounds on the banks of the Ural, orJailrJ
in the fouthern dillrids watered by the Yenifei, and. in the mountainio^
Daouria.

But in all pnrts of tlie Rufllan empire agriculture has made little pro
grefs, nor indeed is it polUble while tlie pcufaiitry are flavcs, and foil
with the i'oil.

RiVKhs] Some of the largcll rivers of Afia belong to the Riilllai
empire, nearly equaUing in the kngth of their courfe any others on th
j.i;lol)e. The Ob, including its wide eftuary, may be faid to liuldi
comparative courfe of i.yoo Britidi miles, while that of the YcncfJ
i-( about 1,750, and that of tlte Lena 1,570. In tlie fimc mode of mcnl
furation the Hoan Ho of the Chinel'e will, in its wandering proeref^
exceed the Ob { while the Kian Ku, pervading the centre (m Chiiui

* ScQ Bell'* ftatMMted (i«fai|iti(ni of UiU v^g'ton*

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.

34t

^jybe traced, if the Porticho be included, for a length of about 2,000

The Ob may be traced from the lake of Altyn, lat. ji% if its fource
I,., not even followed along the Shabckan river to lat. 47^. The upper
Irtilh flows into the lake of Saifan, whence it ifliies under the name of
Lower Irtifh, and after a circuit of great extent, joins the Ob below
Sainarof. It rifes about the 45'', and ought perhaps to be regarded as
the principal llream. However this be, the Ob, piercing the Altaian
chain* after having received many fmall ftrcams, pafles Kolyvan, and at
fome (lillance to the N. receives the Tomm, and other large rivers from
the eaft. Below Samarof, as already mentioned, it receives the great
river Irtifh, and runs into the fea of Ob, a gulf of the Arftic ocean.
The Ob is navigable almoft to its fource, that is, to the lake of Altyn,
jnd abounds with fi(h, but the fturgeon of the Irtifli are the molt
tlleemed. After it has been frozen for fome time, the water becomes
foul and fetfd, owing to the flownefs of the current, and the vail
moralTes ; but the river is purified in thefpring by the melting of the fnow *.
This is julUy and univerfally elteemed the largeft river in the Ruffian
empire. The fliores and channel are generally rocky till it receive
the Ket, after which the courfe is through clay, marl^ fand> and mo«
ralTcs.

Next is the Yenifci, which is confidered as deriving its fource from tho

mountains to the S.W. of the Baikal, in the river called Siflcit ; but the

I name Yenifei is not imparted till many ((reams have joined, when it holds

its courfe almolt due north to the Ardic ocean. Yet with far more

propriety might the Yenifei be derived from the fea of Baikal, whence

Hows the Angara, afterwards abfurdly called Tunguitcaf, being a

I ilrcam of more length and importance than the Yenifei, fo that the

name of Angara miglit be continued till it join the Ardic fea. This

river has fome rapids, but is navigable for a great way. The Angara*

afterwards called Tunguflca, is faid to be about a mile in breadth, when

itill'ues from the Baikal, and is fo clear that the pebbles of the bottom

jmay be fcen at the depth of two fathoms |. The channel is full of

Irocksfor the fpace of about a mile from its egrefs ; and there is no paflage

Ifortlie fmalleil boats, except along the eallern bank. The pilots and

llailors who navigate the lake fpeak of it with much reverence, calling it

Ithe Huly iSea, 'ind tlio mountains about it the Holy Mountains ; and are

Ihiehly difpleafed with any pcrfon who fpeaks of it with difrefpe£t, or

Itulsita lake^.

The Sehnga is a noble river, farther to the fouth, which flows into the
Jfea of Baikal ^, after receiving the Orchon and other rivers, among
Iwhich is the Tula or Tola, the lall ftroam that occurs till the wide de-
Bcrt be pafTed, which here divides the Rudian empire from China
Proper. The territory adjacent to the Selinga and the Onon is the mod
litereding in Siberia, abounding with new, and truly Afiatic botany and

Thelaft of thefe large rivers is the Lena, which rifes to tlie wcfl of the
leiuf Baikal, running nearly parallel with the Angara, from win. It it is
>pamtcd by a chain of hills. The L.ena receives the Wilim, and the

* Pcimtnt, Are. Zoot, ilxi.

t Tljfre are two other riven of thl< name furihirto tin north, tlio lar; elji 5« n^ th«»
jffiilff'.iiilat. Cfi«,

J Bell, i. ao7— .115. t nil, i no.

J The Sriingt iiii{|iht hn regarded u the origintl Angara, ur Vcutl'ci, as the Ob, and
^Jh iik pari tluuugh Ukei.

Z 3 Olcknia

luS'!

'li

34^

Russian empire in asia.

Olekma from the Yablonoi mountains ; and till near Yakutflc, piirfu^j
a courfe from the S.W. to the N.E. a direftion of confiderable utility
.88 affording navigation to the remote regions. From Yakutflc the courfe
is nearly due north : the channel being of great breadth and full of
iilands.

Such are the moft important rivers of Afiatic Ruflia, the Volga liavinj;
been already defer ibed in the European divifion. The Yaik is a conli.
derable ftream which flows into the Cafpian : the name was recently
chanjjed for that of Ural, on account of a daring infurreftion of the tribes
bordering on the Yaik *. The Terek alfo joins the Cafpian on the wed
and its chief confequence is derived from the fertility of its fliores. Tlie
Kuban, or ancient Hypanis, runs in an oppofite diredlion into the Euxine
the lower fliores being plain, and deftitute of wood, while near the fources
ere large forefts.

Towards the other extremity of Afiatic Ruflia is the Anadir, which
pervades the country of the Techuks, The long courfo of the Amur
oelongs to the Chinefe dominions. The Argoon may be properly con-
fidered as the original Amur, while the Onon, alfo called the Schilka,
which is regarded as another fourcc of that great river, may be coniidercd
as entirely RulTian. The courfe of the Onon is about 500 miles ; audit
receives numerous il reams from mountains on the N. and S.

Lakes.] In the north of Siberia the moft confiderable lake is that 1
of Piazinfl<o. In the fouth the fea of Baikal is frefli, but the extent far
PXCiitdihg that of any other lake, it bus been defcribed among tlie inland
fens of Afia. Between the river Ob and the Irtifh is a large lake about]
half the length of the Baikal, or 170 miles in length, divided by an
into two parts, called the lakes of Tchany and Soumi. In tliisquarttrl
there are many fmaller lakes, and others to the north of the Cafpian, fomel
of which arc fait, particularly that of Bogdo, near the fmall mountain I
fo called. I

The Altan Nor, or golden lake, fometimes corruptly called Elton, iij
9 large faline lake on the E. of Zarit/in. The lake of Aliyn, alreadyl
mentioned in the account of the river Ob, is called by the Ruffians Te.'
letzko ; cHid is confidt rably elevated on the north nde of the All
mountains ; but from the belt maps is not above 40 miles in length,
20 in breadth.

Mountains.] The Uralian mountains have been already dcftribed|
in the account of European Ruflia. The grandeft chain in Siberia i
that called the mountains of Altai, which, according to Pallas, croflingj
the head of the Irtifh, prefents precipitous and fnowy fummils bctweea
that river and the foiirccs of the (Jb. Thence it winds by the fprirg
of the Yenifei, and the fouth of the fea of Baikal, where it is called tli
mountains of Sayanfk. Here the Altaian chain bends in a more northerly
dirertion to the neighbourhood of Ochotfl<, under the appellation
the Yah^''>n"' ridge, a name implying the mountains of Apples. Branched
of inferior hciglit pafs to the eailern extremity of Afia under the laltoi
name, or that ot the Stanovoi mountains. The fame chain in the northo
Daouriais alfo called the Daouriati mountains ; and in this quarter a lo'.ve|
ridge paffes the fouth towards China,

According to Dr. Pallas Bogdo Toln, or BogdoAlim, the almiglit|
mountain, rears its pointed fununits with (Iriking fublimity, on thclimil
betwevn thp Suongarian and Mongolian (Jcfcrts, while a chain cktciidt

t Thi» rivt-r nlnno rifrn on «hp E. of tlir Ural mounMunfj ^fiA Aftenrtfdi piercei tW
|Hmuc tlikiOf uul ptilTvi W. Dec. KuIT. iv. U09« " .' *

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.

343

is called w
ire northerljj
pellation
Branched
the latici
the north o|
Ttcralowt)

he almigM
on the liinil
ektci)(i»i^

(lie lake of Altynin the N.W. and another to the S.E. callctl Changay,
and a fnowy ridge, tliat of Maffart, pafles fouth, and is fuppofcd to join
thofe of Tibet : and lallly tln^ parent mountain fends forth a rocky arm
called Allakoola, or the ciject^uered ridge, and by the Tatars Ala Tan,
connefted with the Kirgufian Alginflcoi Sirt. Between the laft ridge,
jnd the Maffart, rife the river Sirr, or Sihon, and the Talas. From
Mia Koola the Hi runs noi'th into the lake of Palkati, or Balkafh, and
the Emil and Tfliui flow in the fame diredlion. From the mighty
Bogdo itfelf rifes the Upper IrtiHi, which flows into the lake of Saizan :
hence this great mountain muft be fituated about long. 93°. lat. 44'. It
isthu! probable tha*. the Altaian chain is conneAed with the fouthern by
other ridges beiides that of Maffart, the ckferts between Siberia, and
Hindoftan *, and weftern Bucharia being alternate hills and plains, and
(Xtremcly rocky. . ♦. .

The weftern part of the Altaian chain is chiefly argillaceous, with
ffraiiitic heights, but many parts are calcareous. Sinnaia-Sopka, or tlie
blue mountain, the chief fumir.it in the government of Kolyvan, does
iiot exceed 3000 feet above the i"ea, and confills of coarfe granite with
argillaceous fchiftus, and limeftone at the bottom. Here a granitic ridge
runs north towards the river Tfarifli, abounding with ores 01 fdvcr, cop-
per, and zinc.

The Schlangenberg is the richcft in minerals, and near the river Alay
to the N.W. branches of hills continue full of minerals, and often com-
pofcd of porphyry and granite, one of them on the north of the river
Ouba rifing to 5.691 Enghfli feet above the bed of the llream. That
fpace of the Altaian chain which runs between the Ob and the Yenifei has
been little explored ; but affords granite, porphyry, jafper, primitive
and fccoiidary limellone, with ferpentine, putro-lilex, flate, mountain
iTvllal, carnelian, and calcedony : one of the higheH fummits is tht^
Sabin, near the foiirce of the Abakan, In general they arc bare, the
chief forcihi being in the bottoms near the rivers. That portion called
the Sayanik mountains alfo conhlls chiefly of granite, and porphyry,
with feveral mines of talc, or Mufcovy glafs. Branches extend on both
tides of the fca of Baikal likewife prefentiiig mines of talc, and pro-
montories of milk-white quartz. Near Irkutflc coal has been found ;
and there are fait fprings in many places. Other produdls of this ricU
tlilhict fluiU be mentioned in the mineralogy.

The nioiMitains of Ncrniinflt, or Ruffian Daouria, fend branches to-
tturdstlu' Siliiiga and the Amur. The chief luights are towards the
foiirces of the Onon and Iiigoda. wliere there are precinitous fummits
of granite. A ridge paffnig S.W. and N.E. to the fouth of NerJhinlk
between the rivers Unon and Arg(H)n (the lall of which is the real
Amur), is the moil fertile in minerals of all Afiatic Ruflla. Among
the produds may be named granite, porphyry, jafper, calcedony, car-
oelian, onyx, large fmoaky topa/es, beryl, or aqua-marinc, th<; real

I topaz, and the jacint. In this opulent dittrift arc alfo fait lakes, and
warm fprings with vitrii>lic pyrites, ores of alum, native fulphur, and
cuals. The metals are /.iuc, iron, copper, and many mines of lead ore,
containing filver and gold. The zuulugy and botany are alike curious

I ud interciUpg f .
The chain uf Staiiuvi, othcrwifc called the mountains of OchotHct

• P«IIm.

t 'lliimrtHnUin Ailnnrtu'llii, rrU-Wrntril (or tniitpmlt, it in tlif fouthrrti nttrpmitvof
il'ill'ian Daouria. Di;i-. l\\\\T. v. sot, 'i'imt volviuc, aiiJ ihc Cunl^, ui lali, iii»y \tt ivif

(ylicdli ■■ ■*' - '-■

»i:

>ut »n •rcouiil uf Utt* cvuutry.

344

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.

is only a continuation of the mountains of Daouria. This part has tpj.
little explored ; but produces nearly the fame fubftances as the former
A great fingularity of this ridge is, that fome entire branches confillof
beautiful red and green jafper. That branch which pervades Kamchatka
is little known, being covered with perpetual ice and fnow, but it
abounds with volcanoes.

This grand chain contains almoft the whole mountains of Siberia, the
remainder of the land on the W. of the Yenifei being level ; and to the
E. of that river are only feveral long ranges extending from the S, to
the N.

But in the S.W part of Afiatic Ruflia fome ranges deferve attention
as the lower part of the Uralian chain, which bends, as before obferved
to the W. above Orenburg.

The claflical range of Caucafus forms a partial limit, between the Ruf.
fian empire and thofe of Turkey and Perfia. Between the Euxin'eand
the Cafpian the Caucafian chain extends for about 400 B. miles; and
where the chief heights are diftinftly marked, about five miles in breadth
but in many places 20 or 30. The fummits are covered with eternal ice
and luow ; and confift as ufual of granite, fuccceded by flate and lime,
ftone. Tn ancion' limes they produced gold ; and there are ftill vefti^es
of fi!vLr, lead, and copper ; and it is fuppofed of lapis lazuli, 'fhe
va'"! abour : v.'th excellent foreit trees*.

roi'.KSTS.J AfKitio Rulfia is fo abundant in forcfts, that particular
names have not been aifigncd to fo valt an extent. On the well of the
government of Irku fk an enormous dark and marlhy foreft of rdlnous
trees extends to the river Khanf . The northern and callern parts of
Sioeria are bare of wood ; the Norway fir not being found farther north
than lat. 60 , while the filver fir does not exceed lat. 58'. In Euiupe,
on the contrary, the Norway fir forms extenfive forefts in Lapmaik,
within the ArAio circle |.

Stepps] After the forefls, may be confidercd the extenfive levd
plains, an appearance of nature almoft peculiar to Afia, and fome parts of
European Ruflia : but fomewhat fimilar to the fandy deferts of Africa.
The uepps are not fo barren of vegetation, being moftly only fandy, with
fcattercd patches of thin grafs, and at wide intervals a Hunted thicket.
Between the mouths of the Don and Volga is a ilcpp which refcmMe!
the bed of a fea ; with fpots of fait, and falinc lakes, being entirely ddi.
tute of frefh water and wood ^■.

On the caftcrn fide of the Volga begins an extenfive (lepp, formerly
callttl that of the Kalmuks, from tribes who ufed to roam there, till they
withdrew from the Ruflian dominions in 1771. To the S. it is bounded
by the Cafpian fea and the lake Ural ; while to the N. it may be regarded
as conneded with the ftepp of Ifllm } and on the £. may be conlidmd
as extending to the river Sarufa ; the greater part not belonging to the
Ruflian dominions, but being abandoned to the wandering Kirgiifrs. This
vail defert extends about 700 B.'itifli miles from E. to W.; and, including
Iflim, nearly as far from N. to S., but on the N. of the Cafpian tiie
breadth docs not exceed 220, A ridge of fandy hills ftretches from near
the termination of the Uralian chain towards the Cafpain} tlicrcllisa
prodic^ious fandy level, with fea (hells and fait pools.

Thin ftepp of Barabin, N.W. of Omfk, is about 400 miles in len^'th,
and 300 in breadth, containing a few fall lakes, but in general ofagoud

• Stt the Iaf\ Tntvrls of PallU) 1793>4|.
f Ore. Ku<r. vii. ISK.
I Tookc'i Vkw, i. 171.

Lontlon INOI, a vnb. 4ra.
X I'couittj A. Z- p. clxtti

black

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA-

34S

llack foili interfperfed with forcfts of birch *. That of I ffimafpirea but
prelr to the fame quality : and in both are found many tombs, inclofing
theremains of paftoral chiefs, Tatar or Mongnl.

The vaft fpace between the Ob and the Yenifei, from the north of
Tomflt to the Arftic ocean, is regarded as one itepp, being a prodigton<»
Itvel, with no appearance of a mountain, and fcarcely of a hill. The fame
term is applied to the wider fpace between the Yenifei and the Lena, be-
tween the Arftic ocean on the north, and a river Tunguflca, lat. 65* ; and
to the parts beyond the Lena, as far as the river Kolyma, or Covima.

Botany.] When we confidor the vaft extent of the Aiiatic provinces
of the Rulfian empire, the fcantinefs of their population, and the few years
that have as yet elapfed fince the flrft attempt to invelligate their natural
produAions, we fliall feel rather iiirprifed at what has been done, thau
difappointed becaufe no greater progrefs has been made in arranging and
defcribing their indigenous vegetables. The labours of Steller and Gmelin,
andlaftly of Pallas, under the munificent patronage of the F.mprefs Catha-
rine, have difclofed to the view of fcience the wilds of Siberia, and the.
defcrts of Tatary ; and though many extenfive trafts continue wholly
unexplored, yet from the ample fpecimen that has been furveycd, we may
form a very probable conjeAure concerning the botany of the remainder.

RiiiTia in Afia, with regard to its flora, is divided by nature into two
unequal portions : the fmaller of thcfe is bounded on the weft by the
Don and Wolga, on the eaft by the Uralian mountains, and on the fouth
by the Cafpian fea, and the Turkifh and Perfian frontiers. The climate
of this diilridl is delicious, and the foil fertile : it Hopes towards the fuuth,
and is protefted from the northern blafts by lofty mountainous ridges : in
its botany it greatly rcfembles the province of Taurida, of which an ac-
count has already been given : the cedar, the cyprefs, the favine, ted juni.
n?r, beech, and oak, clothe the fides of the mountains ; the almond, the
peach, and the fig abound in the warm recefll'S of the rocks ; the quince,
the apricot, tht willow-leaved pear, and the vine, are of frequent occurrence
in the thickets, and on the edges of the forcfts. The bogs are adorned
by thofe exquifitely beautiful plmts, the rhododendron ponticum, and
azalea pontics : the olive, the ftately wide-fpreading eadern plane tree, the
laurel, the bay, and lauruftinus, grow in abundance on the (hores of the fea
of Azof, and the Cafpian ; and the romantic vales of the Caucafus are
perfumed and enlivened with the fyringa, the jafmine, the lilac, and the
Caucafiaii rofe. From fo flattering a fpecimen it is not to be doubted
that future naturalills will gather an abundant harvcft of ufeful and beau-
tiful vegetables in thefc diftri6ts, which have hitlicrto been very inadequatel/
noticed.

By far the larger part of the Ruflian dominions in Afia is the wide ox-
panfe of Siberia, (loping towards the north, and (hut up on the fouth by
the fnowy fuinmits of the Altaian and other mountainous chains. As the
winters are of great length and foverity throughout the whole of this trart,
none but the hardieft vegetables are found to inhabit it. The oak and the
hazle, which endiiri; the rigours of a Germrin winter without flirinking,
cannot cxill in a Siberian cUmate ; dwarfifh fpccimcns indeed of each may
be traced at t'.te foot of the Altaian mountains, quite acrofs Afia, as far
as the banks of the river Amur, in Daouria, where, being fcrcencd from
the northern blafls, they refume their natural fize ; but all that attempt
to penetrate northward become more diminutive as they advance, and foon

* Thi> poverty of dcfcripiive langtia);* ii frequently to l>e rrprpttrtl. A RuiTian (Icpp
(poeiisiet rcfcmblM • defert, at oihcl timn a Ikminih wtving with luxvttiMit gni:

I c&tircly

't<n

t i

J46

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.

entirely difappear. Even the common heath, and bog myrtle, which tav?.
the lower parts of Lapland, venture but a very little way eallward of the
Uralian mountains. We are not however hence to coiicluile, that the
mighty rivers of Siberia pour their everlailing llreams through a barren
wafte of perpetual fnow ; on the contrary, they are bordered with inex.
hauflible forefts of birch, of alder, of lime, of Tatarian maple, of black
and white poplar, and afpen, bcfides milhons of noble trees of the m^
fpecies, fuch as the fir, the Scotch pine, the larch, the itone pine, and
yew-leaved fir. Nor during their (hort fummer are they dellitiue of
many beautiful plants, that lie concealed under the fnevv during the greater
part of the year.

The Siberian plum, and crab, the mountain afh, Tatarian honey-fuckle
Tatarian mulberry, and the Daourian rofe, form thickets of exquifite
beauty, under flielter of which arife the white flowered peony, the ydlow
faranne lily, whofe roots are a favourite food with the Tatarian tribes, and
a multitude of others, a bare lift of whofe names would be neither amufmcr
nor inftrudlive. Only two plants more need be mentioned, the hcracleiim
panaces, and fibiricum, from the dried ftalks of which the natives procure
a faccharine efflorefcenoe, whence, by fermentation and diltillation, a coarfe
ardent fpirit is made, that enables them to enjoy the fupreme beatitude of
all the northern nations, drunkennefs.

Zoology.] In the greater part of Afiatic Ruffia the rein-deer, which
extends to the farther eaft, performs the office of the horle, the cow, and
the flieep ; if we except Kamchatka, where dogs arc ufed for carriage.
But the fouth may perhaps be confidered as the native country of that
noble animal the horfe, being there found wild, as well as a fpecies of the
afs*. The terrible urus, orbifon, is yet found in the Caucafian mouii-
tains } and the argali, or wild (heep, is hunted in Siberia. The ibex, or
rock goat, is frequent on the Caucafian precipices ; and large 113^3
occur in the mountains near the Baikal, with the mu(k animal ; the wild
boar, wolves, foxes, and bears, of various names and defcriptions, are alfu
found. That kind of weazel called the fable affords a valuable traffic by
its furs. Some kinds of hares appear, little known in other regions ; and
the caftor or beaver is an inmate of the Yciiifti. Tlie walrus, or large kind
of feal, once termed the fea h»rfe, is no (Iraiiger to the Arctic fliores; and
the common fcal extends to Kamchatka, while the maiuiti, pcrliaps the
mermaid of fable, inhabits the ilrails ut Bering, and the iilcs bctwivii the
continents.

The horfcs of the Mongnls arc of fingular beauty, fomc being ribbed
like the tyger, and others Ipottcd like the leopard. The noftnlsof the
foals arc commonly flitted, tiiat they may inhale more air in the coiirfe.
The three great Nomadic nations of the centre of Alia, the Tatars,
Monguls, and Maiidfhurs, have no averliou to horfe llclh, which is in
their opinion fuperior to beef; but it is never eaten raw, as fabled, though
they fomctimes dry it in the Uui and air, when it will keep for a longtirric,
and is eaten without farther preparation. The atloiit or llud, of a noble
Mongul, may contain between three and four thouland horfes and marcb.
The cattle arc of a middling fi/c, and pafs the winter in the llcppsor
deferts. As thefe nations uf(> the milk of mares, fo they enipby the
crow for draught, a firing being palTed through a hole made in their nollril.
Mr. Bell met a beautiful Tatar girl aflridc un a cow, attended by two
male fervants.

The belt fables are found near Yakutfk and Ncrfliindc ; but thofeof

* Pciiiuot; A> Z. 1. i. S«c olTo Dec. RuIT. vi. 309.

Kamcbtki^

kUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.

Kamcbatka are the morft numerous, and feveral ftratagems are employed
to catch or kill the animal, without any injury to the flcin, which h fome-
times worth ten pounds on the fpot. The black foxes are alfo highly
tlleenied, one fkin being fometimes fufficient to pay the tribute of a vil.
ijjre*. The rock or ice fox, generally of a white colour, fometimes
blteirtij is found in great numbers in the eallern Archipelago ; this animal
rivals the ape in fly tricks and mifchief. The bear is delhoyed by many

ingenious

methods. The Koriaks contrive a loop and bait hanging from

rin

itree, by which he is fufpended. In the fouthern mountains his ufual path
15 watched, a rope is laid in it, vvIlIi a heavy blc k at one end, and a noofe
at the other. When thus entangled by the n.- :k, he is either exhauiled
by dragS'^S ^° gi'eat a weight, or, attacking the block with fury, he
throws it down tome precipice, where it I'eldom fails to drag him to
(Itftruction. On the European fide of the Uralian chain, where the pea-
fants form bee-hives in tall trees, the bear is dellroyed in his attegipt
tofeize the honey, by a trap of boards lufpended from a ilrong branch*
and (lightly attached to the entrance of the hive : the animal finding thi'j
olatform convenient for his purpofes, undoes the llight fallening to get
at his lufcious repaft, but is inltantly conveyed to a great dillancc, and
remains fufpended from the branch, till he be difcovered and (hot by the
contrivers.

Mineralogy.] The mineralogy of Siberia is equally fertile, and dif-
plays many fingular and interelling obje As. Peter the Great, who direfted
his attention to every objeil of utility, was the firil who ordered thcfe re-
mote mines to be explored, which have fince fupplied great refources of
national wealth and indufiry.
The chief gold mines of Sibeiia are thofe of Catherinburg, or Ekathe-
gburg, on the eall of the Uralian mountains, about lat. 57% where an
ice for the managenrjnt of the mines was inltituted in 1719. The
mines of various forts extend to a confiderable diltai)ce on the N. and S.
of Catherinburg ; and the foundries, chiefly for copper and iron, are
computed at 1 05. But the gold mines of Berefof, in this vicinity, were of
little conlequence till the reign of Elizabeth. The mines of NerJhinlk,
difcovered in 1 704, are principally of lead mixed with filver and gold ; and
thofe of Kulyvan, chiefly in the Schlangenberg, or Mountain of Serpents,
fo called by the German miners, begun to be worked for the crown ia
1748.

The gold is fometimes found native, but generally mingled with various
fubftanccs, particularly filver.

Befides the copper mines in the Uralian mountains, there are alfo fome
in thofe of Altai. The moit fingular ore is the dentritic, fumewhat re«
feinbling fern, of a pale colour, and perhaps containing filver. Malachite,
or Italadtitic copper, is found in the greatell perfection in a mine about
30 miles S. of Catherinburg ; what is culled the Armenian Itone is a blue
malachite f. The red lead of Siberia is found in the mines of Berefof,
on a mica:eou8 fand (lone. This fubltance, it is well known, has difclofcd
a new metal called chrome.

But the iron mines of Ruflla are of the mod fohd and lading importance,
particularly thofe which fupply the numerous foundries ot the Uralian
mountains I . Yet Ruilia itill imports quiokfilver and zinc ; and the femi-
metals are rare.

• Took*'» View, iii. 43. f Gutlirie, Tuble of Gems. Bef XV. p. 913.

X Nvar ntuuiit kjniot, or Nriuir, not Lt Iruiu tUe river Viuil't;!, in t\w I'outli of Siberia,
Dr. Pallitit difcovered a large auit w( Miim lion. S«tt Den. Ruff, vi, a'JS, \vLi<b fhva it

Bdiil Kriifuujaril(,

Reck

! ilii

S48

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.

Rock fait is chiefly found near the Ilek, not far from Orenburg. Co I
is fcarcely known ; but fulphur, alum, fal ammoniac, vitriol, nitre and
natron, are found in abundance.

Nor muft the gems of Siberia be omitted, of which there is a great '
Variety, particularly in the mountain Adunfliollo, near the river Arloon ^
in the province of Nerfliinfk or Daouria. Common topazes are found in ^
Adun(hollo, in quadrangular prifms, as is alfo the jacint. The beiyl or
aqua-m-jrine is found in AdunfhoIIo, but in greater perfeAion in wjiat are
Called the gem mines of Mourfintfky, near Catherinburg, along withtU
chryfolite. Red garnets abound near the fea of Baikal ; and a yellowifl,
white kind was difcovered by Laxman. The green felfpar of Siberia i-
a beautiful ftone, by the Ruffians carved into various ornaments. The
Daourian mountains between the Onon and the Argoon alfo produce
elegant onyx.

The beautiful ftones called the hair of Venus and Thetis, being limpid
rock cryflals, containing capillary fchorl, red or green, are found near
Catherinburg.

The beautiful red and green jafpers of Siberia are from the moll dif.
tant mountains, as already mentioned, and lapis lazuli is found near the
Baikal. The Uralian chain alfo prefcnts fine white marble ; and in the
numerous primitive ranges there are many varieties of granite and por.

Medical wateiis.] Medical waters do not abound in Afiatic Ruffia,
There is a fetid fulphureous fpring near Sarcpta, on the frontier of Europe
and Afia, and feveral others in Siberia. The baths on the Terek, towards
the Caucafus, are of a middle temperature : and there are others in ilie
province of Ncrfhinfk ; among the Kalmuks to the fouth of the Altai in
the country fometimcs ilyled Soongaria, and in the neighbourhood of tl)e
fca of Baikal. Springs impregnated with naphtha and petroleum occur
near the Cafpian and the Baikal.

But the cliief medical waters arc thofe in Kamchatka, as defer ibed hy
Lcfleps. The hot baths of Natchikin, not far from a volcano in the fouth
of that peninfula, feemed not to have been traced to their fource, but
they fal! in a rapid cafcade about 300 feet above tlie baths, benevolently
erected by Mr. KaflofF, for the benetit of the Kamchadals, the llream
being about a foot and a half deep, and fix or fevcn feet wide. The water
is extremely hot, and of a very penetrating nature. On the well lide of the
gulph of Penjina is a hot fpring which faUs into the Tavatona, being of a
great fize and emitting clouds of fmoke. . ■

ISLES BELONGING TO ASIATIC RUSSIA.

Thefe were formerly divided into the Aleutian, Andrenovian, .ind Kiiri.
lian groups, with the Fox ifles, which extend to the promontory of Alatka
in North America. The Aleutian ifles, on the eall of Kamchatka, were
multiplied by the early navigators as they faw them in different dirctlions,
but arc now reduced to only two worth notice, Bering^'s ifle and Copper
ifle. The Andrenovian ifles may be regarded as the fame with the Fox
IflandSf being the weilern part of the fame range : if tliey mufl bediilin.
guifhcd, the Andrenovian form a group of fix or more ifles, about 5C0
miles to the S.£. of Bering's*. It appears that tbe Fox and Andre
novian ides are a kind «f elongation of the American promontory of Alaika,
and may more juHly be referved for the defcription of Norta America,

* Coxej RufEut Difc, ii i but be fays the N. £.

late

« »

RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN ASIA.

549

late Eiigliili naviprators having difpclled many doubts concerning the real
pofition of thefe ifles. Bering's ifle and Copper ifle are both uninhabited,
and do not merit particular tlelcription *.

Tlie Kurilian iflcs extend iVom the fouthern promontory of Kamchatka
towards the land of JcfTo and Japan, being fuppofcd to be about 20 in
number, of which the largell are Poro Mufchir and Mokanturu. Several
of thefc ides are volcanic ; and fome contain forefts of birch, alder, and
pjne. Moil of them fwarni with foxes of various colours. Even after
the difcoveries of La Peroufe it is difficult to diftinguifh what particular
ides in the fbuth of this chain are implied by the Ruffian appellations, anil
it would even appear that the Ruffian navigators had, with their ufual
confufion, defcribed the fame iflands under different ' names. The in-
habitants of the Kurilian ides feem to be of limilar origin with the Kam«
cha^s ; and in the interior of fome is a people called liairy Kurilians^
from what circumllance is not explained.

illm

THE CHINESE EMPIRE.

IK the lad century the Chinefe emperors, of the Mandfhur race, extended
this wide empire over many weftern countries, inhabited by wandering
hordes of Mon^uls, Maiidfhurs, and Tatars ; and eftablifhed fuch firm in-
fluence over Tibet, that the Chinefe empire may now be conftdered a^
ntending from thofe parts of the Pacific ocean called the Chinefe and
Japanic leas, to the rivers Sarafou and Sihon in the wcit, a fpace of 81'^,
\rhi<;h, taking the medial latitude of 30", will amount to nearly 4,200
geographical, or 4,900 Britiih miles. From N. to S. this vaft empire may
be computed from the Uralian mountains, lat. 50^, to the fouthern part
of China about lat. 21% being 29^ of latitude, 1,740 geographical, or
nearly 2,030 Britidi miles.

This empire, therefore, confills of three principal divifion* ; that of
China Proper ; the territory of the Mandjhurs and Monguls, on the north
and weft } and laftly the fingular and interefting region ot Tibet or Tibbet.
Thefe countries are not only fo wide and important, but are fo radically
different in the form of government, in the manners, and other circum*
dances, that it will be proper to defcribc each apart. ' >

* The AnHtenovian iflet have atinofl vanilheJ from Englifl) maps and charts, which only
aJinit the Alcutiiiu or Fox iflandt, aiiJ the (luiliaii uaugatun luuil liava cired groUj if
(Iieii obfervatiottii.

:;i!i

PJIRTI.

(3SO)

PJRT I.

CHINA PROPER.

CHAPTER I.

niSTOIUCAL GEOGRArilY.

Namet. — Extent. — Boundaries. — Original Population, — ProgreffJve CeH'
graphy. — H'iflorlcal Epochs ana ^Antiquities.

01).

»j -. '' I "'HIS diftincfuiflicd region is by the natives ftyled TcIil,,.

""' X Koue, which fignifies the centre of the earth, asthev
proudly regard other countries as mere ikirts and appendages to -their
own. After the conquell of the northern part by the defcendants of
Zingis, it was ftyled Cathay, a name loudly celebrated in travels, poetry
and romance ; while the fouthern part was known by the appellation of
M angi. The origin of the name of China, or Tfin, feems uncertain, but
the connexion between this word and the Sin;e of the ancients appearj
imaginary, the country of the Sinas being fliewn by Goflellin to be much
farther to the well. The Mahometan travellers of the ninth century
publiihed by Renaudot, call this country Sin, but the Perfians pronounce
It Tchin *.

China Pjoper extends from ^he great wall in the north to the Chinefs
fea in the (outh, about 1,140 geographical, or i»3j?o Britifli miles. The
breadth from the fliores of the Pacific to the frontiers of Tibet may be
computed at 884 geographical, or nearly 1,030 Britiih miles. Infquart
miles the contents have been eftimated at 1,297,999, and in acres at
830,7 19,360 f . On the eaft and fouth the boundaries are maritime, and
to the north they are marked by the great wall and the defert of Shamo'
the confines with Tibet on the welt feem to be chiefly indicated by an
ideal line, though occafionally more ftrongly marked by mountains and
rivers : particularly according to D'Anville the river Yalon, which falii
into the Kian-ku, the country of Sifan lying between Tibet and China,
on the fouth of the Eluts of Kokonor.

OniGiVAL POPULATION.] The population of China feems wholly
aboriginal, but the form of the features appears to imply intimate affinity
with the Tatars, Monguls, and Mandfhurs ; yet the Chinefe probably
conftitutea fourth grand divifion, nut ftriftly derived from eitharof thcfe
barbaric races.

Progressive geography.] The progreffive geography of China, as
known to the weftern nations, is not of ancient date. The oldefl external
relation which we poffefs is that of the two Mahometan travtUers in the
ninth century, who fiirprife us with accounts of barbarifm and cannibalifm
little to be expefted : but the Ara!)s are fo fond of fables, that implicit
credit may be fafely withheld frf)m feveral pafTages. Yet tlicle travellerj
impart high ideas concerning tlie Cliinefc empire, and mention Canefu,
fuppofed to be Canton, as a cjty of great trade, while the emperors re*
fided at Camdan, which feems to be the city alfo called Nankin, or the
Southern Court, in contradillinftion to Pekin or the Northern Court.
This wide empire continued, however, obfcure to the inhabitants of Eu-
rope till the travels of Marco Polo appeared, in the end of the thirteenth

* Englifh Tranflation. R<m.iiVs, p. 40.

Matartnci's limb, Ui. Appit.
CCDtDry,

CHINA PROPER.

35^

tentuty. Oderic of Portenau defcribed his voyage to China 1318 ♦,
jnd our Sir John Mandeville vifited China about 1340. In the following
centurv there feems to have been a ftrange and unaccountable intermiflion
f i,itercowr*e and refearch. But after this relapfe of darknefs, the rays
of more genuine and authentic knowledge gradually emerged by the
difcovery of the Cape of Good Hope, and the fubfequent enterprizes
ofthe P'ortuguefe.

Historical epocits.] The Chlncfe hiftory is faid to commence, in
a clear and conllant narration, about 2,500 years before the birth of
thrift. The founder of the monarchy is Fo-Hi ; but the regular hiftory
begins with Yao f . The dynafties or families who have fucceffively held
the throne amount to 22, from the firft named Hia, to the prefent houfe
of Tfing t' ^"» *^^ ^^^ emperor ofthe houfe of Hia, is faid to have
vfiittcn a book on agriculture, and to have encouraged cannh for irri-
jation ; and it is alfo aiferted that he divided the empire into nine pro-
vinces. The ancient revolutions of China would little intereft the general
reader. The dynafties, as ufual, generally terminate in fome weak or
(ricked prince, who is dethroiii-d by an able fubieft. Sometimes the
monarchy is divided into that of the fouth, which is efteemed the ruling
and fuperior inheritance ; and that of the north. The emperor Tai
I'fimg, who reigned in the feventli century after Chrift, is regarded as
one of the greateft princes who have filled the Chinefe throne. Tl>e
Mandfluirs to the north of China repeatedly influenced the fucceflion to
tlie empire; but the Monguls under Ziiigis and his fucceflbrs feized the
live northern provinces. Hoaitfing, who began to reign A.D. 1627,
,35 the lalt prince of the Chinefi- dynafties. Some unfuccefsful wars
ajraiiill tile Mandfliurs, had rendered this emperor melancholy and cruel ;
and infiirreftioiis arofe, the moft formidable being conduced by two
chief", Li and Techang. The'former befieged Pckin, which was iurren-
deredby the general difcontent, and the emperor retiring to his garden*
firll llew hi ■ daughter witli his fabre, and afterwards hanged himfelf on a
tree, having only lived 36 years. The ufiirper feemed firmly feated on
tlictlirone, when a prince ofthe royal family invited the Mandfhurs, who
advanced under their king Tfong Te. The Mandflmr monarch had
fcareely entered China when he died ; and his fon of fix years of age was
declared emperor, the regency being entrufted to his uncle. The younj
prince, named Chum Tching, was the firft emperor of the prefent
dviiaily, »nd has been followed by four princes of the fame Mandftiur
family.

Antiquities.] Among the remains of Chinefe antiquity may be
mentioned the coins ofthe ancient dynaities, of which arranged cabinets
ire formed by the CHrious natives. Thoje are alfo feveral pagodas, or
ornamented towers, fometimes ercfted in commemoration of great eveats ;
many temples, which a'^e low buildings of a different conftruftion from
tlie pairudas; and fome triumphal arches, which buaft confide-abie an*
Itiqiiity.

But the chief remain of ancient art in China is that ftupendous wall,
fxiendin^ acrofs the northern boundary §. This work, which is de-
fervedly eileemed among the grandelt labours of art, is conduiled over

hefummits of high mountains, fome of which rife to the height of 5,225
rtt.aiTofs the dt-epeft vales, over wide rivers by means of jirches ; and ii*

lany parts is doubled or trebled to cumtuand important palfer., and ut th^

• Foiftfr'sDifc. in thoNath, j>. 147.

+ Du H.ilde, iii.7. Have, 1756. 4tO,
§ bi[ a. btaiiiiioii, ii, vibU, Svo,

diftance

■iiiilir

lua

»i:^^v 1..,^.,.

35*

CHINA PROPER.

diilanee of almnft evefy hundred yards is a tower or maffy haftion, Tj
extent is computed at 1,500 miles ; but in fome parts of fmaller danger
it is not equally llrong uor complete, and towards the N.W. is only I
rampart of earth. For the precife height and dimendons of this amazin!!
fortification the reader is referred to the work already quoted, whence ^
appears that near Koopekothe wall is 25 feet in height, and at the ton I
about fifteen feet thick : fome of the towers, which are fquare, areiRl
feet high and about 50 feet wide. The ttone employed in thJ
foundations, angles, &c. is a ftrong grey granite ; but the greateftl
part confifts of biueifli bricks, and the mortar is remarkably pu,g|
and white.

Sir George Staunton confiders the era of this great barrier as abfo
lutely afcertained, and he afferts that it has exifted for two thoufandl
years. Mr. Bell, who refided for fome time in China, and whofe traveljl
are defervedly efteemed for the accuracy of their intelligence, afTures us*|
that this wall was built about 600 years ago (that is, about the year
1 1 60), by one of the emperors, to prevent tlie frequent incurfions ofi
the Monguls, whofc numerous cavalry ufed to ravage the province^
and efcape before an army could be aifembled to oppofe them. Renaud»t|
obferves, that no oriental geographer, above 300 years in antiquity, menj
tions this wall f : and it is furprifing that it fhould have cfcaped Marco
Polo ; who, fuppofing that he had entered China by a different roiitej
can hardly be conceived, during his long refidcnce in the north of China]
and in the country of the Monguls, to have remained ignorant of faj
ftupendous a work. Amidft thefe difficulties, perhaps it may be conl
je<ftured that fimilar modes of defence had been adopted in different agej j
and that the ancient rude barrier having fallen into decay, was replaced
perhaps after the invafion of Zingis, by the prefent ereftion, vfhich
even from the ft ate of its prefcrvation, can icarcely afpire to mad
antiquity.

CHAPTER II.

PQLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Religion' — Ecchfiqfilcal Geography, — Government — Latut. — Populatk
— Colonies. — Army. — Navy. — Revenues. — Political Importance m
Relations.

P ^ A CCORDING to Du Haidc, the ancient Cln'iieJI

■-' Jl\ worfhipped a fupreme being, whom they ftyla
Chang Ti, or Tien^ which is faid to imply the fpirit which prefides ovd
the heavens, but in the opinion of others is only the vifible lirmamenlj
They alfo worfliipped fubaltern fpirits, who prefided over kingdomi
provinces, cities, rivers, and mountains. Under this fyitem, wliicl
corrcfponds with what is called Shamauifm, facrilices were offered on tb
fummits of hills.

About A.D. 6^ the feA of Fo was introduced into China from Hiij
doftan. The name was derived from the idol Fo, (fuppofed tobetH
Boodh of Hindoftan), and the chief tenets are thofe of the Hia
doos, among which is the metempfycofis, or tranfition of fouls froi
one animal to another. The priefls are denominated Bonzes,

bble debate. Pa

« Travels, 11. i:s. kro«

t lit fupra, 137.

CHINA PROPER.

3^3

bo is fuppoied to be gratified by the favour fliewn to liis fervants.
iMany fubordinate idols are admitted ; but as the Jefuits found the fol-
Ibersof Fo the moft adverfe to Chriftianity, they have abfurdly enough
Ued them Atheifts.

Since the fifteenth century many Chinefe literati have embraced ii new

Ifvllem, which acknowledges an univerfal principle, under the name of

Itaiki' feeming to correfpond with the foul of the world of fome

liiicient philofophers. This opinion may indeed deferve the name of

lAtlieifm ; nor is it unufual to find ingenious reafoners fo far difgufted

Ifith grofs fuperilitions as to fall into the oppofite extreme of

Ijkfurdity. But fuch opinions are confined to very few ; and the

Ifliinefe are fo far from being atheills that they are in the oppofite ex-

-ue of Polytheifm, believing even in petty demons who delight in

bjiute afts of evil, or good. There is properly no order of priefts,

jcept the Bonzes of the fe6l of Fo ; this (cA and that of Lao Kian,

\ is the fame with that of the Tai See, admit of monaiteries. The

Icbinefe temples are always open, nor is there any fubdivifion of the

jonth known in the country *.

Government.] The government of China is well known to be patri«
tchal The emperor is indeed abfolute ; but the examples of tyranny
erare, as he is taught to regard his people as his children, and not as
iflaves. The ftability of the government, in all its effential, and even
inute forms and cuftoms, juftly alloni|hes thofe who are the moft verfed
(hillory. It arifes from a circumilance unknown in any other govern*
lent, the admiifion and pra£tif e of the principle aflerted by lord Bacon
jiat howledge is power: For all the officers of government pafs through
[regular education, and a progrefs of rank, which are held indifpenfable.
|)f thefe officers, who have been called mandarins, or commanders, by
[Portaguefe, there are sine claffes, from the judge of the village to
I prime minifter. The profeffion requiring a long and fevere courfe
(lludy, the praftice of government remains, like that of medicine, un-
ken by exterior events ; and while the imperial throTie is fubjeft to
[ccident and force, the remainder of the machine purfues its ufual jcircle.
fo vail an empire, with a computed population of more than
130,000,000, perhaps the ftability of the ftate is incompatible with much
ledom; yet the ideas of an European are Ihocked by the frequent ufe
[the rod, a paternal puniihment which would in his eyes appear the
degrading fpecies of flavery. The foldiers, however, (hew the
ateft tendernefs to the people, and every fentence of death muft be
jnedby the emperor.

The governors of the provinces have great and abfolute power, yet
leltions are not unfrequent. Bribery is alfo an univerfal vice : and
Ciiinefe government, like many others, is more fair in the
t)ry than in the practice. Yet '.le amazing population, and the
iDcral eafe and happinefs of the people, evince that the adminiftra<
ion of the govern;nent muft be more beneficial tlian any yet known
BMg mankind.

I Laws.] The Cliinef? laws are ancient, but numerous f, and edicts
[the reigning dynafty have reftrained the mandarins within ftridler
mits of duty.

[P0PULATIOJI.3 The population of China has been 'a topic of con-
krable debate. Pauw, a bold and decifivc aflerter, fuppofes that the

I* Pauw, Recherches Phllofophkin^ fur les Eeyptiens et 1m Chinols, torn. ii. 917.
|t See Suuuioa'a tr«uflaU9n uf the TftTCng Leu JUe, or LawKof China.

A ' A a population

>':tii

354

CHINA PROPER.

population is exaggerated when it is computed at 82,000,000*. The I
recent Englifli embaffy was aftoniflied at the excefs of population ; and
Sir George Staunton has publiftied the following table, from the inforna.
tion of a mandarin of high rank, who had every opportunity of exaft
knowledge.

Table of the population and extent of China Proper^ within, the great itialL
Taken in round numbers from the Jiatements of Chow-la-Zhin.

Provinces.

Population.

Sg. miles.

ylcrtt.

PeH:he-lee

Kiang-nan, two provinces

Kiang-See

Tche*kiang

Fo-chen

Hon-an

Shan-Tung

Shan-fee

Shen-fee

Kun-fou

Se-chuen

Canton

Quang-fee

Yu-nan

Kfei^:he6u

38,000,000

32,000,000

19,000,000

21,000,000

15,000,000

f 14,000,000

_ 13,000,000

25,000,000

24,000,000

27,000,000

18,000,000")

12,000,000 j

27,000,000

21,000,000

10,000,000

8,000,000

9,000,000

58,949
92,961
72,176

39.150
53.480

144,770

65,104
65,104
55.268

1 54,008

166,800

79.456

78,250

107,969

64.554

37.727.369
59.495.070
461192,640
25.056.oow
34.227.200

92.652,80a

41.666,56c
41.666,560]

35.37'.5»

98.565,120

106,752,000
50.85 1, 84(
5o,o8o,oo(
69,ioo,i6(

4i.3'4.5fi<

333,000,000

J.297.999

830,719.36

How far this tabic may dcferve imphcit credit, may be doubted bi
thofe who know the difficulty of fuch refearches, even in themol
enlightened countries of Europe. It is more probable from tit
calculations in Neuhoff's travels, that the population is aboul
250,000,000.

As the Chinefelaws permit no native to leave his country, there can ti
no colonies properly fu called \ .

The army has been computed at i 000,000 of infantry, and 8oo,(
cavalry ; and the revenues at about thirty-fix millions and a half 1
Tahels, or ounces of filvcr, or about nine milUons llerlinff ; but 1
rice and other grain are alfo paid in kind, it may be difficult to tft
mate the precife amount or relative value compared with Europ
money § .

Political importance and relations.] The political importana
and relations of China may be faid to be concentrated in itfclf, asnoeij

• h'chcrchf*, i. 711. f Thi« identic repttition muft be erfonwui.

X Yet ihr number of Chinpf»» at lUfavia, r.iJ c'.her rituation» iinhe Oricnul .\nli|

(>eligo, intiiy oi whom |>afs at trailers to and (rum their countiy, (hews that thri°«li»ii
ittle regarded.

h Sir Geo. Sta\inton, iii. ()od, eAimatet (he revenue at aoO,00«,000 ounrn of filn
which he fays in (H)ual to 66,ooo,OO0l. llerhng ; but, vtluii^; th« ounM of lilvrrat fivel^J
liu^, tlte uuuuut u ^0,000,0001.

impii

CHINA PROPER.

355

0,000*. The I

)pulation;and
'« the informa.
tunity ofexaft

i- the gretU ludl
u-la-Zhin.

Acrts,

37.727.369I
59'49J)07o|
46.192,6401
25.656,000

34>227,20o|

92.652,803

41.666,56

41.666,5601

35»37i.Jio|

98,565,120!

J 06.752,00
5o»85i,84fl|
5o,o8o,(
69,100,16
4».3i4.)6

830,719,36

be doubted bj
ven in themofl
)able from tb
ation is aboul

try, there can li

ry, and 8oo,(
8 and a half 1
iterlins; ; but 1
difficult to (ft
with Europ

itical importana
itfvlf, asnoa

ift be erroiiwui.
he Oricnul .^U

00 ouncM (if W"

of lilv«il(i«M

impM

ample is known of alliance with any other ftate. It has been fuppofed
that one European fhip weuld deftroy the Chinefe navy, and that 10,000
European troops might overrun the empire. Yet its very extent is an
obftadeto foreign conqueft, and perhaps not lefs than 100,000 foldiers
vffluld be neceffary to maintain the quiet fubjugation : fo that any foreign
vcke might prove of very fhort continuance. Were the Chinefe govern-
ment perfuaded of the utility of external, relations, an alliance with the
English might be adopted, as a proteftion againlt maritime outrage, while
tie Ruffian power might be divided by connedlions with the fovereigns of
Ferfia.

CHAPTER III.

CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.

Umntri and Cufiomt. — Language. — Literature. — Ediuat'ion. — Unlver'
hits. —Cities and Towns. — Edifices. — Roads. — Inland Navigation.
.^ManufaSures and Commerce.

lUSTOMslT^^? Chinefe being a people ii
'-^ X higheft ttate of civilization,

,M.WNERS AND CUSTOMS. J J^ -higheil' ■■lhV;7"ci;i&b'n,'°thdr
manners and cuftoms might require a long defcription, efpecially as they
I lie extremely different from tliofe of other nations. The limits of this
vork will only admit a few hints. In vilUing the fea ports of China,
i foreigners have been commonly impreffed with the idea of fraud and
Jiflionefty ; but it is to be fuppofed that thefe bad qualities are not fo
apparent where there are fewer temptations. The indolence of the upper
cfalTes, who are even fed by their fervants, and the naftinefs of the lower,
who eat almoft every kind of animal, in whatever way it may have died,
ire alfo ftriking dcfeds, though the latter may be occafioncd by dire ne-
ceflity in fo populous a country. To the fame caufe may be imputed the
I (xpofition of infants. On the other hand the character of the Chinefe
is mild and tranquil, and iiniverfal affability is very rarely interrupted by
the (lighted tinfture of harihnefs or paflion. Thcfe qualities may be
partly imputed to the vigilant eye of the patriarchal government, and
partly to (Iridl abilincnce from heating foods and intoxicating liquors.
The general drink is tea, of which a large veffcl is prepared in the
morning fort^e occaiional ufe of the family during the dav. Marriages are
conduaed folely by the will of the parents, and poligamy is allowed.
The bride is purchafed by a prefent to her parents, and is never fcen by
herhufband till after the ceremony. It is not permitt<.d to bury in cities
or towns, and the fepulchrcs arc commonly on oarren hills and mountains,
whore there is DO chance that agriculture will dilturb the bones of the
I dnd. The colour of mourning is white, that pcrfonr.l negledt or forget-
liilnefi may appear in its fqualor ; and it ougtit on folemn occafions to
continue for three years, but fcldom exceeds twvMity-fevon months *. The
walla of the houfcs are fomctimes of brick, or of hardened clay, but more
commonly of wood ; and they generally coufill only «)f a ground floor,
though in thofe of merchants there be fomctimes a fecond ilory, which
forms the warehoufe. The houfcs are ornamented with column.;, and
open ealleries, but the articles of furniture arc few. The ilrofs is long
sith large fleeves, and n flowing girdle of filk. The fhirt and drawers
*ary according to the feafons, and in winter the ufe of iwra is general, from

*DuHaldr, ill. 146.

A a a

lh«

3^6

CHINA PROPER.

the Ikin of the (heep to that of the ermine. The head is covered wltli j
fmall hat in the form of a funnel, but this varies among the fupeiior clsf. '
fes, whofe rank is diftinguirtied by a large bead on tlic top, diverlified iii i
colour according to the quality. The drefs is in general iimple and uni.
form ; and on the audience given to Lord Macartney that of the etnpe,
ror was only diilinguiftied by one large pearl in his bonnet. The chief
amufements of the Chinefe fcem to be dramatic exhibitions, fire works I
in which they excel all other nations, and feats of deception and
dexterity.

Language.] The language is efteemed the moft fingnlar on the face
of the globe. Ahnoft every f y liable con ftitutes a word, and there are
fcarcely 1,500 diitinA founds ; yet in the written language there are at
loail 80,000 charaders, or different forms of letters, To that every found
may have about 50 fenfes *. The leading charadcrs are denominated I
keys, which are not of difficult acquifition. The language feems orip.l
nally to have been hieroglyphical ; but afterwards the found alone was
coniidered. AbftraCt terms are exprefTed as ufual, by relative ideas' ; thugl
virtue, which in Latin implies" llrcngth, among the Chinefe fignifiesfilJal I
piety ; the early prevalence of knowledge in China excluding mere ttrengtli I
from any meritorious claim.

Education.] The fchools of education are numerous, butthechil.
dren of the poor are chiefly taught to follow the kulincl's of their fathers.]
In a Chinefe treatife of education publilhed by Du Halde, the followingi
are recommended as the chief topics, i. The fix virtues, namely, pru.l
dence, piety, wifdom, equity, fidelity, concord. 2. Tlie fix laiidalljl
aft ions, to wit, obedience to parents, love to brothers, harmony wiihre.[
lations, affeftion for neighbours, iincerity with friends, and mercy witj
regard to the poor and unhappy. 3. The fix cfTential pouiis of knowldgej
that of religious rites, mufic, archery, horfemanfliip, writing, and acJ
coirpts. Such a plan is certainly more ufeful than the acquifition of d(ad|
languages. I

Cities AND TOWK.s.] The chiefcities of China are Pekin antl NankinJ
or the northern and fouthcrn courts, the former beiflg the CanibiilaJ
or city of the Chan, in writings of the middle ages, the capital of Cath-I
fay, as Nankin was of Mangi. Pclcin occupies a large fpace of ground J
but the Ureets arc wide, and the huufos fetdum exceed one ilory. Tliel
length of what is called the Tatar city is about four miles, andthefubJ
urbsarc confidor^bl? f. By the bcft information wliich the recent eni{
balTy could procurf, the population was computed at 3,ooo,«oo The|
houfi'S indeed are neither large nor numerous ; but it is common to hi
three goneratiouH with all their wives and children under one roof, iJ
they t'ut jn common, and one room contains many beds. The neit-l
(rteCs of the huufes and various repletion of tlie (hopr, delight the
of the vititor. At Pekin the grand examinations take place, whicU
confer the highefl degree in literature, or in otbor words the chief oHicetj
ill govrrnment. Exceflivc wealth or poverty irxm equally unknown,!
there is no right of primogeniture, and no I; .ciiiitu y dignity ; and thcrei
jrroperly but three cladc's of men in China, men of letters from among who
the mandarins are ft'leftcd ; cultivators of the ground, and mechanics, iaJ
cliidmg merchants ^. The walls of this capital are of confiderabh' llreng'
■ lid tliirkneis ; and the niite gates of no inelegant architecture. Stnd
police and vigilance are obl'ervcd, and the (Ireets are crowded with pallet^

• .SmiinKin, iii. 41 W, f Ili.ii. 207.

; IL), ti, u JU. l^ui tiie lailiurj aiuft b« legudedu • fourth cUb,

CHINA PROPER.

357

pfsand carriagea. The grandeft edifice is the imperial palace, which

I ^iilifts of many piAurefque buildings, difperfcd over a wide and greatly

jjyeilified fpace of ground, fo as to prefent the appearance of enchant>

I'liient.

Nankin, which was the refidcnce of the court till the fifteenth century,
iiayct more extenfive city than Pekin, and is reputed the largeil in the
jijpire. The walls are faid to be about 17 Britilh miles in circumfe-

The cliicf edifices are the gates, with a few temples ; and a celebrated
tower clothed with porcelain, about 200 feet in heiglit. Such towers
jereftykJ pagodas by the Portuguefe, who fuppofed them to be tem-
ples- but they feem to have been chiefly eredted as memorials," or as
crnainenta, like the Grecian and Roman columns.
Tothe European reader one of the moft interefting cities is Canton,
ifliich is faid to contain a million and a iialf of inhabitants; numerous
jinilies refiding in barks on the river. The European faftories with their
[iitional flags, are no fqiall ornaments to this City. The chief export is that
of tea, of which it is faid that about 13,000,000 of pounds weight are
confumed by Great Britain and her dependencies, and about 5,000,000
iTtlierea of Europe. The imports from England, chiefly woollens,
itli lead, tin, furs, and other articles, are fuppofed to exceed a million ;
id tlie exports a million and a half, befides the trade between China and
,, poU'elfions in Hindoftan. Other nations carry to Canton the value
labout 200,oool. and return with articles to the value of about 6o'D,oool.
io that the balance in favour of China may be computed at a milUuti

[lerliiig.
The other large cities of China are almoft innumerable ; and many of
'."es are of a furprifing fize. Of the cities, Singan is by fome
-;«^1 to Pekin. In general the plan and fortifications are limilar ;
ii „ ir garrifon is carefully maintained.

E. I J The moll llriking and peculiar edifices in China are the
godasor towers, already mentioned, which fomctimcs rife to the height
niiio (lories, of more than twenty feet each. The temples, on the con-
, are commonly low buildings, always open to the devout worfliippers
polythcifm. The whole llyle of Cliinefe architeAure is well known to
lingular, and is difplaycd with the greatclt fplcndour in the imperial
jce at Pekin.

R()M)s.] The roads are generally kept in excellent order, with con-
icnt bridges. Tiiat near the capital ii thus ilefcribed by Sir George
lUton : " This road forms a magnificent avenue to Pokin for perfona
commodities bound for that capital, from the call and from the fouth.
is pirfcclly level } the centre, to the width of about twenty feet, is
eduith flags of granite, brought from a confiderable diilance, and of
li from fix to fixtecn feet in length, and about four feet broad. On
Ii lide of this granite pavement is a road unpaved, wide enough for
iagcs to crof» upon it. The road was bordered in many places witk
i."

JxLAND NAvroATiON.] The canals of China hure long excited the envy
wonder of other nations. A.8 the two grand rivers Hoanhg and
iiltu bend their courl'e from well to eaft, the chief objctt was to inter-
Itk' empire from north to fouth; which was in great meafure accom-
Vd by the imperial canal. This wonderful work, which in utility and
uurcxca-ds the enormous wall, is faid to have been begun in the tenth
ItKryof the ChritUan era, 30,000 men Itaving been employed for 43
h 111 its completioa.

A a J " Thi»

•.

S5»

CHINA 5R0PER.

*' This great work difFt;rs much from the canals of Europe, v,hicii a
generally protrafted in ftraight lines, within narrow bounds, and witko r
a current ; whereas tliat of China is winding often in its courfe, of unequal
and fometimes confiderable width, and its waters are feldom ftagnant '

" The ground which intervened between this bed of the artificial river I
and that of the Eu-ho, was cut down to the depth of about 30 feet i 'I
order to permit the waters of the former to flow with a gentle current intol
the latter. Their defcent is afterwards checked occanonally by flood I
gates thrown acrofs the canal, wherever they were judged to be neceflanrl
This canal has no locks like thofe of Europe. The flood-gates are finiDle!
in their conftrudtion, eafily managed, and kept in repair at a trifling exJ
pence. They confift merely of a few planks let down feparately one unoft
another, by grooves cut into the fides of the two folid abutments or pier]
of ftone that projeft, one from each bank, leaving a fpace in the middW
juft wide enough to admit a pafiage for the largeft veflels employed upoii
the canal. As few parts of it are entirely level, the ufe of thefe flood!
gates, aflifled by others cut through its banks, is to regulate the quantitj
of water in the canal. Some flcill is required to be exerted, in order td
direft the barges through them without accident. For tliis purpofei
great oar projeAs from the bow of the vefTel, by which one of thecreii
conduAs her with the greateft nicety. Men are alfo ftatipned on eacl
pier, with fenders made of flcins (luffed with hair, to prevent the efFei
of the vefTels ftriking immediately againll the ftone, in their quick
through the gates.

** Light bridges of timber are thrown acrofs thofe piers, which are ealilJ
withdrawn whenever veflels are about to pafs underneath. The flood-mta
are only opened at certain ftated hours, when all the veflels colleAed nn
them in the interval pafs through, on paying a fmalltoll, appropriated (
the purpofe of keeping in repair the flood-gates and banks of thecanJ
The lofs of water occafioncd by the opening of the flood-gate is not verl
confiderable, and is foon fupplied by ilreams conduced into the canal froj
the adjacent country on both fides*.'*

The fame author defcribes this canal as beginning at Lin-fin-choo,«h((
it joins the river Eu-ho, and extending to Han-choo-foo, in an irremili
line of about 500 miles ; where it joins the Hoan-ho, or Yellow Rivd
till it is about three quarters of a mile in breadth. In the fouth therin
Kan-Kian, which runs from S. W. to N. E. fupplies a very coiifidenli
part of the navigation.

To enumerate the other canals of China would be infinite, as there m
large canal in every province, with branches leading to moll of thetoB
and villages.

Manufactures and commerck.] The manufadurcs of China
fo multifarious as to embrace almoil every article of induflry. Thcrr
noted manufacture is that of porcelain, and is followed in trade bv thJ
of filk, cotton, paper, &c. The porcelain of China has been cdebntj
from remote ages, and is chiefly prepared from a pure white clay callj
kaolin ; while the petunfi is underUood to be a decayed felfpur. Soi
writers add foap rock, and gypfum + .

The internal commerce o? China is immenfe, but the external tradd
unimportant, confidering the vaftnefs of the empire ; a fcanty ii'tercoul
exifts with Ruflia and Japan : but thc/chief export is that of tea, wb
is fent to England to the value of •about one million yearly.

Climate and

I-

' Sir G. Suuiiton, lii. 70i.

t lb. iii. SOO.

CH/

CHINA PROPER.

CHAPTER IV.

NATUUAL GEOGRAPHY.

359

CliiMfc and Seafons. — Face of the Country. — Stil and Agriculture. —
Rivers. — Lakes. — - Mountains. — - Forefts. — Botany. — Zoology. —
j^ineralogyt—- Minernl Waters. — Natural Curioftties.

. , ' _.„^, T "T^HE European intercourfe with China

CtlMATE AND SEASOKS.] J^ ^^^j ^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^ ^j^^ ^^^^^^^^

part of the empire, the climate is generally confidered as hot, whereas the
Borthern part of this extenfive country is liable to all the rigours of the
European winter *. At Pekin fuch is the efFeft of the great range of
Tatarian, or rather Manfhurian mountains <:overed with perpetual lnow»
that the average degree of the thermometer is under 20" in the night
daring the winter months ; and even in the day it is confiderably below
the freezing point. In fo wide an empire, fuch a diverfity of climate
andfeafons muft occur that no general defcription can fuffice.

Face of the countuy.] The face of the country is infinitely diver*
fified ; and though in a general view it be flat and fertile, and interfered
with numerous large rivers and canals, yet there arc chains of granitic
mountains and other diflrids of a wild and favage nature. Cultivation
I hai however confiderably reduced the number and extent of fuch features,
whence the natives feek to diverfify the famenefs of improvement by
I igtroducing them in miniature into their gardens. In general the ap-
pearance of the country is rendered fingularly pitlurefque by the pecu-
bar ftyle of the buildings, and uncommon form of the trees and plants.

The foil is various, and agriculture by the account of all travellers is

I carried to the utmoft degree of perfection. The emperor himfelf fets an

I annual example of the veneration due to agriculture, the Bril and moft im-

Iptant province of human indullry. Sir George Staunton thus ex-

prelTes his ideas of Chinefe agriculture f :

" Where the face of the hill or mountain is not nearly perpendicular
I to the level furface of the earth, the flope is converted int» a number of
terraces one above anothei each of which is fupported by mounds of
Hone. By this management it is not uncommon to fee the whole face
of a mountain completely cultivated to the fummit. Thefe ft ages are
not confinod to the culture of any particular vegetable. Pulfe, grain,
Timt, fwcet potatoes, onions, carrotsi turnips, and a variety of other cu-
iinary plants are produced upon them. A refervoir is funk in the top of
the mountain. Tlie rain-water collected in it is conveyed by channels
fuceffivfly to the different terraces, placed upon the mountain's (ides.
Inlpots too ru}rgecl, barren, ftcep, or high for railing other plants, the
cameha fefanquz, and divers fir?, particularly the larch, are cultivated
I with fuccefs.

*' The collection of manure is an objedt of fo much attention with the
iCIunefe, that a prodigious number of old men and women, as well as of
children, incapable of much other labour, are conltantly employed about
theHrcets, public roads, banks of canals, and rivera, with baikets tied
before them, and holding in their hands fmall wooden rakes to pick up
the dung of animals and offals of any kind tiiat may anfwcr the purpofe

; 'm

I.*

* Staunton, ui< 157.

Aa 4

t luld, lii. UOfi

=. I

t i

3^9

CHINA PROPER.

pf manure ; but above all others, except the dung of fowls, the Chinefo
farmers prefer night foil. This manure is mixed Iparingly with a portion
of ftifF loamy earth, and formed into cakes dried afterwards in the fun.
In this (late it fometimes becomes an objeA of commerce, and is fold to
farmers, who never employ it in a compafk Hate. Their firll care is to
cotiflrudl large ciflerns for containing, befides thofe cakes and du«g of 1
every kind, all forts of vegetable matter, as leaves or roots or items of
plants* mud from the canals, and offals of animals, even to the (havings
collefted by the barbei^. With all thefe they mix as much animal water
as can he collected, or of common water as will dilute the whole ; and in I
this (late, generally in the a£l of putrid fermentation, they apply it to the
ploughed or broken earth.

" The quantity of manure thus collcdlcd muft however be ftill inade.
quatc to that of the cultured ground, which bears fo vad a proportion to
the whole furface of the country. It is referved therefore in the firil in.
ftance, for the purpofe of procuring a quick fucceflion of culinary' vege.
tables, and for forcing the produdlion of flowers and fruit. Among th{
vegetables raifed molt generally, and in the greateft quantities, is a kind
of cabbage, called by the Chinefe pe-tfai, or white herb, which is of ^
idelicate tafte, fomewhat refembling cos-lettuce, and is much rclifliedin
China by foreigners as well as natives. This vegetable, and rice, together
with a relifh of garlic or of onions, in room of animal food, and followed
by a little iafufion of coarfe tea, ferve often as a meal for a Chinefe peafant
or mechanic. The Chinefe hufbandman always deeps the feeds he in.
tends to fow in liquid manure, until they fwell, and germination begins
t») appear : which experience, he fays, has taught him to have the effed
of hallening the growth of plants, as well as of defending them againll
the infedts hidden in the ground in Avhich the feeds were fown.

«* The great objcdl of Chinefe argriculture, the produftion of grain, is
encrally obtained with little manure, and without letting the land lie
allow. Irrigation is praftifed to a very great extent. The hufbandry
is (ingularly neat, and not a weed is to be feen."

RiVEKS.] In defcribing the rivers of this great empire two are well
known to dt-ferve particular attention, namely, the Hoan-ho and the
Kian-ku. The fources of the firfl, alfo called the Yellow River, from
the quantity of mud which it devolves, are ttPo lakes, fjtuated amongl\
the mountains of that part of Tatary known by the name of Ko.
kenor. They lie about the 35" of north latitude, and 19" of longitude,
to the weflward of Pekin, being, according tp Arrowfmith's map ofj
Afia, about 97^ eaft from Greenwich*. This prodigious river is ex-
tremely winding and devious in its courfe, purfuing a N.E. direSion
to abaut the 42° of north latitude, and after running due eaft it fuddenly
bends foutli to a latitude nearly parallel to its fource, and purfues
an eaderly direflion till it be loft in the Yellow Sea. Its comparative
courfe may be edimated at about 1,800 Britifh miles ; or, according to the
late embafry, 2,150. At about 70 miles from the fea where it is croffed
by the imperial canal, the breadth is little more than a mile, and the
depth only about nine or ten feet ; but the velocity equals feven or eight
iniles in the hour f .

The Kian-ku rifes in the vicinity of the fources of the Hoan-ho; but
according to the received accounts and maps about 200 miles fartbci to
the weft, and winds nearly as far to the fouth as the lioaii-iiudoestothe
north. After wafliing the walls of Nankin it onters the fea abou^ ic(^

* Staunton, iii. 393.

f lb, iii. 334.

CHINA PROPER.

361

miles to the fouth of the Hoan-ho. The Kian-ku is known by varioui
names through its long progrefs ; and near its fource is called by the flluts
Porticho, or Petchow ; the courfe is about equal to that of the former,
thefe two rivers being confidered as the longcll on the face of the globe }
they certainly equal, if they do not exceed, the famous river of the Ama-t
loni in South America, and the majeftic courfe of the Ganges does no^
extend half the length. In the late cmbafly the length of the Kian-ku ia
ellimated at about 2,200 miles ; and it is obferved that thefe two great
Chincfe rivers, taking their fource from the fame mountains, and pafling
jlmoft clofe to each other in a particular fpot, afterwards feparate from
each other to the diftance of ij"' of latitude, or about 1,050 Britiih miles ;
finally difcharge themfelves into the fame fea, comprehending a traft of
land of about 1000 miles in length, which they greatly contributcio
feitilize.

To thefe grand rivers many important ftreams arc tributary, but it
would be infinite to enumerate the various waters which enrich and adorn
ibis wide empire.

I,AKEs.] Nor is China deftitute of noble and extenfive lakes. Du
Haide informs us that the lake of Tong-tint-how ! i '»e province of
Hou-qnang, is more than 80 leagues in cirpumference. That of Poyang-
jiou, in the province of Kiang-Si^ is about 30 leagues in circumference,
ind is formed by the confluence of four rivers as large as the Loire.
There is alfo a confiderable lake not far to the fouth of Nankin, called
Tai-how. Some of thefe are defcribed in the late embaffy. Upon a
lake near tlie imperial canal were obferved thoufands of ftnall boatg and
rafts, conllrudled for a fingular fpecies of fifhery. " On each boat
or raft are ten or a dozen birds, which, at a fignal from the owner,
plunge into the water ; and it is aftonifhing to fee the enormous fize
of fifti with which they return gprafped within thpir bills. They appear
to be fo well trained, that it did not require either ring or cord about
tkir throats, to prevent them from fwallowing any portion of their prey,
except what the mailer was pleafed to return to them for encourage-
ment and food. The boat ufed by thefe iifhermen is of a remarkably
Tight make, and is often carried to the lake, together with the iifhing-
birds, by the men who are there to be fupported by it."

Mountains.] Concerning the extenfive ranges of Chinefe mountains,
no general and accurate information has yet been given. Du Hald&'s
ample defcrtption of the Chinefe empire only informs us that fome abound
with mines of filver, others produce marble and cryilal, while fome fup-
ply medicinal herbs. From the fame author we learn that the province^
of Yunnan, Koeitcheou, Setchuen, and Fokien, are fo mountainous at
greatly to impede their (;ultivation ; and that of Tchekiang has dreadful
mountains on the weft. In the province of Kiangnan there is a diltrid
full of high mountains, wliich alfo abound in the provinces of Chenfi and
of Shanfi. This imperfe^l information is little enlarged by the account
publilhed of the late cmbaflfy ; and perhaps Mr. Arrowfrnith's recent
mapof Aiia, contains as authentic information as can be procured con«
cerning the courfe and extent of the Chinefe mountains. It hence ap-
pears that a confiderable branch extends from thofe in central Afia,
running fouth to the river Hoan-ho. Two grand ranges running £.
and W,, interfc£l the centre of the empire, leeminffly • continuations of
the enormous chains of Tibet. In the fouthera part of China the principal
ndges appear to run from N. to S.

Forests] Such is the cultivation dj^ufcd throughout China, that few
(orelU remain, except in the mountainous diftri^s. Near the royal pa-

lacc§

$6i

CHINA PROPER.

laces there are indeed forefts of great extent, but they rather bear the
appearance of art than of nature.

Botany.] The number of Europeans who have been allowed to vifit
the interior of China is fo fmall, and thofe to whom this privilege has been
granted having objefts of more urgency to attend to than the indigenous
plants of this vaft empire, we are as yet only in poffeffion of fome fcattered
fragments of the Chinefe flora. The neighbourhood of Canton has been
furveyed by Ofbeck, and a meagre lifts of plants is to be found in Staun.
ton's account of the EngliHi embafly there. Thefe are almoft the only
authentic fources that have been hitherto opened, and are calculated rather
to excite than to fatisfy the botanical inquirer.

Among the trees and larger (hrubs we find particularized the thuya
orientalis, an elegant evergreen j the canphor tree, whofe woad makei
an excellent and durable tir'her, and from the roots of which that fra)jrant i
fubftance camphor is procured by diftillation ; the oleander-leaved euphor.
bia, a large flirub ufed as a material for hedges ; the tallow tree, from the
Aruit of which a green wax is procured that is manufactured into candles-
the fpreading banyan tree, growing among loofe rocks ; the weeping wil!
low ; Spanim chefnut, and the larch. Of the fruit trees the followipff
are the principal : China orange ; the plantain tree ; the tamarind ; the
white and paper mulberry tree ; the former of thefe is principally culti.
vated for the ufe of its leaves, on which the filk worms are fed ; and of
the bark of the latter, paper and a kind of cloth are made. Nor muft
the two fpecies of the tea tree be left unnoticed, whofe leaves couilitute
fo large a proportion of the European trade with China.

Several beautiful plants grow wild in the hedges, fuch as the globe ama.
ranth ; the balfam ; and that elegant climber ipomea quamocUt.

Zoology.] There are few animals pecuUar to the Chmefe territon-.
Du Halde aiferts that the lion is a ftranger to this country, but there art
tygers, buffaloes, wild boars, bears, rhinocerofes, camels, deer. Sec*.
The muflc deer is a fingular animal of China as well as Tibet. Among
the birds many are remarkable for their beautiful forms and colours, in
\\hich they are rivalled by a variety of moths and butterflies.

Mineralogy.] Among the metals, lead and tin feem to be the rareft.
China poffefles mines of gold, filver, iron, white copper, common copper
and mercury, together with lapis lazuli, jafper, rock cryftal, load (lone,
granite, porphyry, and vatrious marbles. According to fome, rubies are
found in China ; but others affert that they come from Ava.

In many of the northern provinces coal is found in abundance. Thf
common people generally ufe it pounded with water, and dried in the form
of cakes.

Pekin is fupplied from high mountains in the vicinity, and the minei
faem inexauftible, though the coal be in general ufe.

Mines of filver are abundant, but little worked, from an apprchcnfion
of impeding the progrefs of agriculture. The gold is chiefly derived from
the fands of certain mountains, fituated in the weftern part of tlie pro-
vinces of Sechucn and Yunnan, towards tne frontiers of Tibet. That
precious metal is feldom ufed except by the gilders, the emperor aloni
having folid vefTels of gold.

Tutenag, which is a native mixture of zinc and iron, feems to be a pe-
euliar proauA of China, and in the province of Houquang there was a mint
which yielded many hundred weight in the courfe of a few days.
The copper of Yunnan, and other provinces, fupplies the fmall coii

* Staunton, ii. 84« i. HQ,

current

CHINA PROPER.

current through the empire ; but there is a Angular copper, of a whit*
colour, called by the Chipefe petongt which deferves particular notice.
This metal muft not be confounded with the tutenag, an error not unfre-
quent. It is indeed fometimes mingled with tutenagto render it fofter.

CHINESE ISLANDS.

Numerous ifles are fcattered along the fouthern and eaftem coaft of
China, the largeft being thofe of Taiwan, alfo called Formofa, and that
of Hainan. Formofa is>a recent acquifition of the Chinefe in the latter
end of the feventeenth century ; the natives being by the Chinefe accounts
little better than favages. It is divided from north to fouth by mountains,
and the chief Clunefe pofleflions are in the weilern part.

The fouthern part of Hainan is mountainous, but the northern more
level, and produ6kive of rice. In the centre there are mines of gold ;
and on the ihores are found fmallblue fifhes, which the Chinefe eileem
more than thofe which we call gold and ftlf er iifli ; but they only furvive
a few days when confined to a fmall quantity of water.

The ifles of Lcoo>keoo, between Formofa and Japan, conftitute a little
civilized kingdom, tributary to China. Thefe ifles are faid to be thirty-
fix in number, but very inconfiderable, except the chief, which is properly
and peculiarly called Leoo-keoo ; by the Chinefe accounts the length of
it is about 1 25 Britilh miles, nearly twice th* extent which is afligned in
recent maps. Thefe ifles were difcovercd by the Chinefe in theTeventh
century ; but it was not till the fourteenth that they became tributary to
China. The emperor Kiang-hi, about A.D. 1 720, ordered a temple
to be erected to Confucius in the chief ifland, with a literary college.
The language is faid to differ from that of China or Japan ; but the civi-
lizatioR feems to have proceeded from the latter country, as the Japanefe
characters are commonly ufed. The people are mild, affable, gay, and
temperate ; and the chief produ£ts are fulphur, copper, tin, with Jhells,
2nd mother of pearl.

!:<]

PJRT II.
CHINESE TATARY.

CHAPTER I.

HISTORICAL OEOORAPHT. ^

Names. — Extint, — Boundaries. — Original Popuiation. — Prtgtef^t Ceo •
pby. — Hiftorical Epochs and Antiqmties,

Names ^ T^^^ vulvar name of Tartary,or more properh Tatary ♦,

••' X was originally extended over the vafl reoions lying

between Tibet, China, and the Arctic oceaa ; and from the Black Sea in

the weft to the utmoil bounds of north-eaftern difcovery in Afia. As

* Such if tlif Orteotnl orthograpkj.

3«4

CHINESE TATARY.

more precife knowledge has arifen, the northern part lias acquired th.
name of Siberia, while the fonthern, ia fome maps ©f recent date, j.
known by the appellations of Weftern and Eaftern Tartary. Yet even
in this part, which might more properly be ftyled Central Alia, the
Tatars, properly fo denominated, are few ; the moft numerous tribes
being Monguls in the weft, and Mandlhurs in the eaft.

Tills extenfive region might therefore more properly be called Mon.
golia, as the greater number of tribes are Monguls ; or the weftern part
might be ftyled Tatary, the middle Mongoha, and the eaftern Maud.
fliuria. The two latter are the objedtsof the prefent defcription ; as that
of Independent Tatary will be found after the account of Perlia, with
which it has (as now limited) in all ages been connedted.

Extent.] This wide and. interefting portion of Afia, which has
repeatedly fent forth its fwarms to deluge the arts and civilization of Eu.
fope, extends from the 72° of longitude eaft from Greenwich to the ii?^
a fpace of not lefs than 73^ of longitude, which, at the medial latitude*
of 45^, will yield about 3,100 geographical miles. The breadth from the
northern frontier of Tibet to the Ruffian confines is about i8 degrees, or
1,080 geographical miles. The boundary towards Kuflia has been al.
ready defcribed. The eaftern boundary is the fea, while the foutliern
extends along the great Chinefe wall, and the northern limits of Tibet.
The weftern boundary is fupplied by the celebrated mountains of Belur
Tag, or the Cloudy Mountains, which divide the Chinefe empire from
Balk, and the Greater Bucharia ; while the range on the weft of the
lake Palkati feparates the Kalmucs, fubjedi to China, from the Kirgufej
of Independent Tatary.

Original population.] The original population of central Afu
appears to have been indigenal, fo far as the moft ancient records extend.
Part of the weft was held by the Scythae of antiquity, feemingly a Gdhic
race, who were fubdced or expelled by the Tatars or Huns from tlie
eaft, prcfled on the other fide by the Monguls. Beyond the latter were the
Mandfhurs, who, though inferior to the Monguls in power, yet retained
their ancient poflcflions, and in the foventeenth century conquered Cliina.
At prefent the chief inhabitants are the Mandfliurs of the eaftern pro.
vinces"; with the tribes denominated Kalkas, Eluts, and Kalmucs, who
are Monguls. The information concerning central Afia is indeed very
lame and defeAive ; and though the late Ruffian travellers afford a few
hints, yet the j^aloufy of the Chinefe, and other caufcs, have contri,
buted to prolong our ignorance concerning this interefting region.

Progkessive GEOGRAPHY.] Though Ptolemy has Lid down, with
fome degree of accuracy, the country of the Seres, or Little Bucharia,
the progreffive geography of central Afia may be faid to commence
with the travels of Marco Polo, in the end of the thirteenth century.
This writer is jnftly regarded as the father of Tataric geography, and
his dcfcrij)tion of the countries to the north of Tibet is not a hitle inte-
refting.

The more recent accounts, among which may be mentioned the travels
of Gerbillon, publifhed by Du Halde, and thofc of Kell, with fome
hints ^f Pallas, may be faid to embrace but fmall portions of this valk
territory *. The impcrfeft ftate of knowledge concerning this coiiii-
try may be imagined, when even D' Anville has been oblige J to have lo-
courfe to Marco Polo !

•Tlicnotfs to the HrJKiire G('i:ealf^lquc dcs Tutars^ Lryile, 1726, 8vo. mnft net be
forgotten amidft the ft.w wateualf.

HlSTOniCA^

(wft not be

|torica|,

CHINESE TATARY.

2^S

HisTOUicAL EPOCHS. J The chief hiftorical epochs of this part oS
Afia tn^iy perhaps be more certainly traced in the Chincfe annals, than in
jny other documentB. The firll appearance of the Huns or Tatars may
ije obferved in the pages of Roman hiftory. The annals of the Monguls,
the moil important nation, faintly illuminates the pages of Abulgafli
whence it would appear that prior to Zingis there was only one celebrated
chan named Oguz, who feems to have flouriflied about the 130th year of
the Cliriftian era. The reigns of Zingis and Timur are fufficiently
^nown in general hiftory ; but the divifions of their conquefts, and the
dilTcntions of their fucceffors have now almoft annihilated the power of
theMonguls, who being partly fubje^l to China, and partly to Ruflia,
it is fcarcely conceivable that thqy can again difturb the peace of their
neighbours.

Antiquities.] Few antiquities remain tp illuftrate the power of the
Monguls ; but it is probable that when this region fhall be more fully
explored by travellers, feveral tombs, temples, and other remains of an-
tiquity may be difcovered.

CHAPTER n. ,

POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Riyon- — Government.— Laws. — Population. — ^rmy.-'-'PoRtical Ini'

parlance and Rtlations.

-,'' I "^HE religion moft univerfallv difFufed in this part of
Religion-. J J^ ^,-^ j^ ^^.j^^^ ^^^^ 1^^^^ ^^U^^ shamanifra, or the belief

in a fupreme author of nature, who governs the univerfe by the agency
of numerous inferior fpirhs of great power. The Kalkas were ac-
ciillomcd to acktiowledge a living Lama, or great Xpirit embodied ; a
form of fuperftition which will be better illuftrated in the account of
Tibet.

GovrRNMENT ] The government was formerly monarchical, with a
ftrong mixture of arillocracy, and even of democracy. At prefent it
iscoiidufted by princes who pay homage to the Chinefe empire, and re-
ceive Chincfe titles of honour ; but many of the ancient forms are retained.
Though wtiting be not unknown among the Monguls, yet the laws appear
I to be chiefly traditional.

Population.] Of the population of thefe regions it is difficult to

[form any precipe ideas. As the numerous tribes fubjeft to Ruffia are

found, under fplendid appellations, to prefent but a (lender number of

iodividuals, not exceeding two or three millions, it may perhaps be rea-

fonable to infer that amidlt the wide deferts and barren mountains of cen«

ItralAfta there do not inhabit above fix millions.

Divisions] The country of the Mandfhurs is by the Chinefe divided
linto three great governments, i. That of Chinyang comprifing Leao-
jdong, furrounded in part by a ftrong barrier of wood. The chief town
isCninyang, alfo called Mugden by the Mandfliurs, ftilla coniiderable
[place, with amaufoleum of Kuuchi, regarded as the conqueror of China,
lad the founder of the reigning family *. a. The government of Kiren-
lOula, which extends far to the N.E., where thefe are many forells and
defmson both fides of the great river Sagalien. Kirem the capital

* I« CroHc,,u. i%\..

ftandt

366

CHINESE TATARY.

ftands on the river Songari, which falls into the Sagalien or Amur, and
was the refidence of the Mandfhur general, who afted as viceroy/*
3. The government of Tfitchicar, fo called from a town recently founded
on the Nonni Oula, where a Chinefe garrifon is ftationedk The
RufHans call this province Daouria, from the tribe Tagouri, whs
poffefs a great part of this territory. The weftern boundary is the
river Argoon, the frontier between Ruflla and China. Tliefe pro.
vinces having been the feat of the Mandfhur monarchy before the con-
qoeft of China, have fipce that event remained fubjeft to their ancient
(overeigns.

In this divifion may alfo be mentioned Corea, which has for many cen.
turies acknowledged the authority of China, and which boafts a confider.
able population.

To the weft are various tribes of Monguls, as the Kalkas, thofe
around Koko Nor, or xhe Blue Lake, who are alfo called (Elets, Eluts
or Kalmucs, the terms only implying particular Mongul branches.
The Eluts have been greatly reduced by two deftrudlive wars aiainft
the Chinefe in 1720 and 1757 ; and their contaifch, or great chan, haj
difappeared. Their country may be confidered under three divi.
fions. I. That part, called G-Jte even in the time of Timur, which
fome regard as the country of the ancient Maffagetae, towards the lakes
of Palkati, Balkaih or Tengis, and Zaizan. 2. Little Bucharia, fo
called to diftinguifh it from the Greater Bucharia, which is fubje^ to
the Uft)ecs, a Tataric nation : put the people of Little Bucharia are an
induftrious race of a didinfl origin, who are little mingled with their
Kalmuc or Mongul lords. 3. The countries of Turfan, to the north of
the lake called Lok Nor, and that of Chamil or Hami to the eail, k.
gions little known, and. furrounded with wide dsferts. Upoa the
whole it may perhaps be found that the Mand(hurs are the mollpopu.
lous race, and that the Monguls, though diffufed through a vail ter-
ritory, can hardly boaft the name of a nation. The Kirgufes, or
Tatars proper of the weft, are confined to a fmall and unfertile dif.
triA ; and may more properly be confidered as belonging to Independent j
Tatary.

Army.] It is probable that this part of the Chinefe empire might
mufter a large but ineffectual army; and amidft modem taAici
and weapons, little needs be apprehended from a new deluge of
Mongul barbarians. Befides, their interefts are now fo various and
difcordant, that while the empires of Ruflla and China exift, they
can only be regarded as conne^ed with the policy of thefe powerful
ftates.

CHAPTER III.

CIVIL OIOOBAPHY.

Manners and Cufiomt.—- Language. — Literature. — Cities and Tovim.-X

Manu/aSures and Commerce.

. . ^ r- i ^HE manners and cuftoms of the Mon<i

Manners an© customs.] ^ g«l. haire been already briefly defcrib.
in tbt account of Afiatic |Luifia.

•D«|i«l<l«, iv.r.

™

^- -.^'

CHINESE TATARY.

367

The Mandfiiurs, who here deferve particular notice, are little diftiiv
ruiihable in their manners from the Monguls. By the account of the
fefuits they have no temples, nor idols, but worfhip a fupreme bein?,
whom they ftyle emperor of heaven. But prpbably their real creed u
Shamanifm, or a kind of rational polytheifm.

Language,] The three languages of the Mandfhurs, Monguls, and
Tatars, radically differ from each other ; the former of which appears
to be the moft learned and perfeft of the Tataric idioms.

Literature.] Of the native literature of the Mandfliurs little is
known, except that a code of laws was drawn up by the order of one
of the monarchs, prior it is believed, to the conqueft of China. The
imported literature by the tranflation of Chinefe works mull be con-
fiderable.

Cities and towns.] This extenfive portion of Afia contains feveral
cities and towns, generally conftrudted of wood, and of little antiquity
w duration. Thefe (hall be briefly mentioned, palling from the well to-
vpards the eaft.

In Little Bucharia appear the cities of Cafligar, Yarkand, Kotun, and
Jaria. Cafligar was formerly a remarkable town, giving name to a con-
fiderable kingdom, the limits of which nearly correfponded with Little
Bucharia *. This town, though fallen from its anciv^nt fplendour, ftill
Rtains fome commerce. Yarkand ftands on a river uf the fame name,
which, after a long eafterly courfe, falls into the lake of Lop.

Turfan, the capital of a detached principality, is a confiikrabk town,
which ufed to be frequented by the merchants palling from Tiirfia to
China. Hami, Chami, or according to others Chamil, jsrives name to a
fmall diftrid in the immenfe defert of Cobi: it is a fmall but populous
place, about half a league in circunnference, with two beautiful RdXcs. it
lands in a fertile plain, watered by a river, ftieltered by hills ,j die N.
Some towns occur farther to the fouth, but feemingly arc only nfual
lUtions for tents, the Monguls preferring the Nomadic life.

To the eaft of the great defert, and near the frontiers of China, feveral
Mongul towns appear in the maps. Coucou feems to be the Couchan
of Du Halde, a fmall town feated on a hill near a river which falls intQ
the Hoan-ho. The others are yet more inconfiderable.

The country of the Mandfliurs contains many villages and cities, as
Hotun Sagalian Oula, fo called from its pofition on that river, in the
country of the Tahouria, modernized Daouria; likewife Tfitchikar, with
Merguen, Petouna, Kirin Oula, and Ningouta. On the north and eaft
of the great river Amur fcarcely the veftige of a village appears* Of
thofe here enumerated Petouna or Pedne was, in the time of Du Halde,
chiefly inhabited by Mandfliur ^pldiers and exiles, >p(^>>r the command of
i lieutenant-general. Ningouta was alfo the rtTai' ;e of a Mandfliur
general, and the feat of a confiderable trade, particularly in the celebrated
plant called ginfeng, which abounds in the neighbourhood. SegaUan
Oula -J- Hotun fignifies the city of the black riv> r, and is the chief iVland-
kr fettlement on that noble ftream j:.

The chief city of Corea is KinkataOy cf which we may be fa.id only
I to itnow the name.

* HUbire des Tatws, 388.

t Id the Mandfliur Uuguage Oula Hgnifiea a rivei', as in the ( liinefe Kiang. Du
IHtlde, iv. }30> Pir* implies the fame. In the Mongul Murcn is a rlvar; yllm a
I boucti'm, alfo Tabahan ; Hata is a ruck. Id the Tatar or I'urkifli Tag n a mountain,
I Dtria i river.

:DuHil4e, iv. 19. ,. ^.J.r . »

$ Trade.]

$6S

CHINESE TATARY.

Trade.] The principal trade of the Mandfhur country confifts in m.
feng and pearls, found in many rivers which fall into the Amur. Excel!
lent horfes may alfo be claiFcd among the exports. Cafligar was for.
tnerly celebrated for mu(k and gold. Corea alfo produces gold, filyer
iron, beautiful yellow varnifh, and white paper, ginfeng, with fniall
horfes about three feet high, furs, and foffil fait. The other towns
are rather ftations for merchants than feats of commerce. But the em-
poria of the Rufiian trade with China mull not be forgotten, bein? on
the Ruflian fide Zuruchaitu, on the river Argoon, and Kiachta : oppo.
fite to which, on the Chinefe frontier, are «orrefpoudent ftations credled
•f wood.

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.

Crtmate and Seafons. — Face of t lie Country.— Soil and /ir^rtcuhure. — Rivers,
— Lakes. — Mountains. — Forefts. — Botany, — Zoology. — Mlneralory,
-—Mineral Waters. — Natural Curlqfitus.

Climat 1 T^KOUGH the parallel of cencral Afia correfponds
'■^ X with tha of France, and part of Spain, yjt the
height and fnows of the mountainous ridges occafion a degree and coatj.
nuance of cold little to be cxpedted from other circumftances. In cli-
mate and produdliona it is however far fuperior to Siberia.

FArE OF THE couNTuy.J The appearance of this extcnfive region jj
diverfitied with all the grand fraturcs of nature, extenfive chains of moun.
tains, large rivers and lakes ; sut the moil fmgular feature is that vad
elevated plain, fupported like a table, by the mountains of Tibet in the
fouth, and Altaian chain in t?ie north, from the mountains of Lelur Tag
in the weil to thofe that bcand the Kalkas in the eaft. This prodigious
plain, the moll elevated continuous region on the' globe, is interkdd by
fome chains of mountains, and by the vaft defert of Cobi or Sl.^imo,
Dfftitute of plants anJ water, it is dangerous for horfes, bift is fiiiVly
pafl'cd with camels. This dcfcrt extends from about the 80 ' of E. ka.
gitude from Greenwich to \bout tlu- iiotlr, lifiiig 30' of loi:;;itiiclf,
which in the latitude of 40 , may be 1,380 geograpliical niilis: hut ,n
this wide extent arwOaft's, or fertile fpots, and even confiderahle regioi);.
On the other hand, the main defert fends forth teveral barren branclie'
in various dire^lions.

Agriculture.] Among the fouthcrn Mandfliurs, and the pcoplocf
Little Bucharia, agriculture is not wliolly neglected, nor is whi-at ;in iin.
known harveft. The foil of fo extcnfive a portion of the eartli may \»
fuppofed to be infinitely various ; but the predumiitating ruhlbino is
black fand.

Rivers.] The moll important river is that called by the Rulliri
the Amur, by the Mand(hur« Sagalian Oula. The Atnur is dcfirvoJIf
clafFed agiong the largeft rivers ; rifing near the Yablonoi muiintaiis,
where it is firll known by the samei of Kcrlon and Argoon, and pur.
fuing an cafterly courfc of about 1,850 Britilh miles. The Amur is the

Sraiul receptacle of the Mandfhur llreams, among which th(> moltconii'
«:<Abltf is the Songari, which itfelf receives the large river Nonni. The
R"flian waters of Selinga and Irtifh alfo pcrvadi* a part of criitial Alu
TiA river of Yarkand bai a confiderahle courfc beiore it enters the I Ac 1

CHINESE TATARY.

369

«f Lop* '^^^ ^^h which falls into the lake of BalkaOi, is noted in
Tataric hiftory.

Lakes.] Some of the lakes are of great extent, as thofe of Balkafli
or Tenuis, and Zaizan, each about 150 miles in length. Next is the
Koko Nor, by fome called Hoho Nor, or the Blue Lake, which giveB
name to a tribe of the Monguls. Nor is the Mongul term for a lake,
which by the Mandfhurs is llyled Omo.
Mountains.] The vail ranges of mountains which interfeft central
\[\i have never been fcientifically defcribed, and few of them have even
Jtceived extenfive and appropriate appellations. On the weft the great
i chain called Imaus by the ancients, the Belur Tag, or Dark Mountains
ofthe natives, runs from N. to S.

In the caftern country of the Mandfhurs the ridges of mountains are
laid down in the fame direAion.

The chief difficulties attend thofe in the centre. Thofs on the Ruffian
I frontier have been well defcribed ; but of the northern mountains of Ti-
bet, and the fources of the Ganges, our knowledge remains imperfedl.
StiU fainter light falls on the ridges which run in an eafterly and wellerly
ireftion to the north of the great defert.

The great rivers of Onon and Argoon, with others that flow in an
rppofite direftion intp the Selinga, rife from the high ridge of Sochondo,
thefummits of which confift of large rocks heaped on each other in fuc-
I cSie terraces. There are two vaft cavities, or abyffes, with perpendi-
cular fides, and fmall lakes at the bottom, which receive the melting
liiows, and ^ive fource to torrents which precipitate tliemfelves with a
I terrible noife amidll the disjointed rocks. This ridjjc is clothed with
perpetual fnow ;'and, after dividing the rivers of Ruffian Daouria f.om
thofe that flow into the Baikal, pafTes S.W., and joins an icy chain
I uhich runs into Mongolia.

There are fome foreits near the rivers ; but in general the extreme ele-
Ivation and fandy foil of central Afia render trees as rare as in the deferts
I of Africa. ^

DoT.\NV.] Of the botany of the whole central part of Afia, including
I the vail territories of Chincfe Tatary and Tibet, we are as yet in a man-
Incr totally ignorant. No European naturaliit has ever even pafled
Ithrough, much lefs explored, the vegetable produfts of thefe extenlive
I regions. From their elevated tituation, and their rigorous winters, it is
obvious that no tropical plants, nor even thofe of the more temperate
jAliatic countries, are to be expeiJted in their flora; and by the vague ac-
Lountiof a ^ew travellers, combined with the little that we know of the
Ifej coal! of Tatary, it would appear that at leaJl the commoneft plants
lare for t!ie moll part the fame as thofe of the north of Germany, mingled
Iwitha few Siberian ''pecies. Hence it feems that the territorial limits of
Ithe Indian and Siberian floras are leparated from each other by a broad
Ibaad of European vegetables, which, entering Alia by the Uralian mouu-
Itiiiii, prociTilb in a fuuth eall direc^lion as far as the Tatarinn borders,
lnheiice it it retches due eall ouitc acrofs the continent, to the river Amur,
laiid the cuall of Mandlhur Tatary. ' Tiie fi)uthern frontier of Tibet, as
lit partakes of the climate of India, fo it refeml 'ea this lall in fome of its
jvogftablc produdions, and for the fame reafon there are manv common
mtun-s ill the floras of Siberia, a id the north of Tatary. It is probable
jjliJthat peculiar fpeciei*, or even genera, may hereafter beiouiid in fuch
l>n fKti'iilivc tra(^. The only indigenous plants that we are as yet cer-
jtaiiily aiqiiaiiitvd with, except what belong to Siberia, or India, are, that
|«cllkuuwu and lingular fern the polypodiuin barumetz, called alfu the

B b Hc^'lhmn

i1^

CHINESE TATARY.

Scythian lamb; panax quinquefolium, n'n/^/t^, the. favourite drug of China-
and rheum palmatum, which at leaft is one of the plants that furnilhel
the true rhubarb.

Zoology.] The zoology of this wide portion of the globe wouU i
fupply an infinite theme, in which the camel of the defert might appear
with the rock goat of the Alps, and the tiger with the ermine. The
wild horfe, and the wild afs, and a peculiar fpecies of cattle which grunt
like fwine, are among the moft remarkable Angularities. The wild horfe
is generally of a moufe colour, and fmall, with long Iharp ears.

Mineralogy.] The mineralogy of central Afia has been little ex.

?>lored. Gold is found both in the eaftem and weftern regions, and the I
brmer are alfo faid to produce tin. As Ruflian Daouria exhibits fo many 1
valuable fubftances, it is reafonable to conclude that they equally abound I
in the Chinefe territory, if fimilar flcill and induftry were exerted in their I
detection. The mineral waters, and uncommon appearances of nature f
have been little invelligated.

ISLAND OF SAGALIAN, OR TCHOKA.

Till this large idaiid was explored by the unfortunate navigator La Pel
roufe, it was fiippofcd to be only a fmall iflc at the mouth of the Amur I
the fouthern extremity being placed by D'Anville about 4^ or 240geo.|
graphical miles, to the north of Jeffo, By the account and maps of LjJ
Peroufe it is only divided from Jeffo by a narrow llrait of about 2omiy
in breadth, fince called the ftrait of Peroufe. The difcovery and accounq
of this large ifland, which extends from the 46th of latitude to the 54th-
or notlefs than 480 geographical miles in length, by about 80 of mediil
breadth, is the moft important portion of that navigator's voyage. Tin
natives leem to approach to the Tataric form ; and the upper lip is comJ
monly tatooed bhie. The drefs is a loofe robe of fltins, or quilted iianJ
keen, with a girdle. Their huts, or cabins, are of timber, thatched vA
grafs, with a fire-place in the centre. In the fouth arc found Japantff
articles. A little trade feems alfo known with the Mandihurs and tu
RulTians. The native name of this large ifland is Tchoka, that ufed bj
the Japanefe Oku.leiro, perhaps iraplvingFarther JeiTo ; while the Rulliaiiu
who only know the northern part, call it the iflc of Sagalian, becaufcitij
oppofite to the large river of that name. The centre is mountainous, a
well wooded with pine, willow, oak, and birch ; but the ihores are level
and Angularly adapted to agriculture. The people are highly praifedb|j
La Peroufe as a mild and intelligent race ; and he exprelsly informs 1
that they are quite unlike the Mandfhurs, or Chinefe.

( 37' >
PART IIL ■ .

* ,

CHINESE EMPIRE.

TIBET.

yj(««. — -S*^''"'* ~ B'lundanes and Provinces. — Progre/Jive Geography. —
Religion. — Govcrnrn. m. — Population. — Manners. — Language ana Lite^
rature.— Cities and 1 owns. — ManufaHures and Commerce. - Climate and
Soil. — Rivers. — Mountains. — Zoology. — Mineralogy. — Natural Curio-
fit'us.

THE account of this interefting country mud unfortunately be limited
in the topics, as the materials are far from being ample. The rorenl
narrative of Captain Turner's journey fhall be felefted as the mod authen-
tic : but it only embraces a fmall part, and fior the general geography
recourfe mull be had to more antiquated authorities. Tibet, with its nume-
rous independencies, may in faft be ftill arranged among the undifcovered
countries in the centn; of Afia.

Names.] The name oiTibet, which is probably Hindoo or Perfian, is,
in the country itfelf, and in Bengal, pronounced Tibbett or Tibt. But
the native appellation is Pue, or Pu'e Kouchimt faid to be derived from
M fignifying northern, and Koaehim, fnow ; that is, the fnowy region
of the north-'.

Extent] According to the moft recent maps, Tibet extends from
about the 75th to the loill degree of longitude, which in the latitude of
10 maybe about 1,350 geographical miles. The breadth may be regarded
as extending from the 27th to the 3Cth degree of latitude, or about 480
geographical miles f . The original population has not been accurately
examined ; but as the people of Bootan, which is regarded as a fouthern
province of Tibet, are faid to differ circntially and radically from the
Hindoos, and fomewhat to rcfcmble the Chiiiefe, it may perhaps be
concluded that they belong to that grand race of men which approachea
the Tatatic, though they cannot be regarded as Mandfhurs, Monguls, or
Tatars proper.

BoUNDAHiEs AND PKoviNTEs.] There is every reafon to believe that
the northern boundary of this country may be fafely extended two degrees
farther than it appears in our bolt maps, in which there is no portion of
Great Tibet to the N.E. of Calhmir.

Tibet is divided into three parts. Upper. MiddJe, and Lower. Upper
Tibet chiefly comprifes the province of Nagari, full of horrible rocks, and
mountains covered with eternal inow. Middle Tibet contains thepro*
vinces of Shang, Ou, and Kiang ; while the provinces of Lower Tibet
aa' Tukbo, Congbo, and Kahang.

Many of thefe provinces are again fubdividcd : for inftancp, Nagari«
rhichisconfidercd as a kingdom of tliree departments, Sangkar, Pourangt
and Tamo. Shang is on the W., bounded by Nipal. The province of
Ou contains Lafla, ihc capital of Tibet. Kiang is to the nurtii-ca(^ of
Ou -. and is inhabited by mingled Tibetans and Monguls, in tents. K>a»

* fiirnrr, p. v. and a05.

t Pr»l)ul)ly til AT", wi.uli would mid I'JO g. mllc) ; for ISIus Tac it, trcotding to th*
luf am, tLi mHrtlMri) bouiidarj ut 1 ittic ( uiid t)i< y ) lace tluit tauga io 88*.

^ b a ban^

•Wf

572

CHINESE EMPIRE.

hang is in the S.E. bordering on the Birmans, and is divided into twelve
departments.

To thefe mud be added the wide region of Amdoa, if it be not the
fame with Kahang, but it feems more probably to embrace the confines
towards China, as the natives are remarkabljr ingenious, afld fpeak the
iChinefe language. The country of Hor is lituated betwixt Tatary and
the provinces of Nagari and Kiang, and feems to be the Hohonor of our
nwps. Our Bootan is by the natives ftyled Decpo, or Takbo : all the
countries to the well of which, as Moringa, or Morung, Mocampour
Nipal, Gorca, and Kemaoon, are not confidered as parts of Tibet. The'
confufion of Chinefe, Mongul, and Tibetan appellations, has been afrrcat
impediment in the geography of this extenfive country ; the N.E. part
of which was, with the Chinefe province of Shenfi, before the great wall
was extended in this quarter, the celebrated Tangut of oriental hillory
and geography. On the weftern fide high mountams, covered with per.
petual fnow, and with all the terrible avalanches and other features of
tbe Swifs Alps, have in all ages prevented the Perfians and the conquerors
of Bucharia from invading this country ; while the deferts in the N.E.
have proved inelfedlual barriers againil the Monguls and Eluts. Thefe
iveilern mountains have alfo prevented travellers from penctratinj in
that quarter, which is httle better known at prcfent than in the time
of Ptolemy.

Progkkssive CiEOGRAPHY.] The progreflive geography of Tibet
chiefly dates from a recent period ; for there is no room to believe that
the fnowy mountains of Tibet had been penetrated by the ancient?.
The Portuguefe commerce with the Eall Indies may be faid to have i
firft difclofed this ample region, ot which however our knowledge, uven
at this day, is lamentably dcfeiftive. Tibet feems to have been the I
fouthern part of the Tangut (^f Marco Polo*, who defcribes tiie pro.
viiice oi Tebethy (which he fays contained eight kingdoms, with many
cities and villages,) as a mountainous country, producing fonie guldand
fpices, a large breed of dogs, and excellent falcons.

About 17 15, the emperor of China beuig defirous to obtain a map of
Tibet, two lamas were fent who had iludied geometry in a matlicmaticbl I
academy f. Thrfe lamas drew a map from Sining, in the province of I
iShcnfi. to the fources of tin- Ganges; wjiich was afterwards examined by!
the .Tefuits, and improved by thrm, ib far as their materials would adn-.it.
Tiiis map, piibliflied in the atlas of l)ii Halde's works, unfortunatt
ci)ntiiuies almoll the fole authority, and is followed, with a few variatioi
by I lie moll recent geographers. Vet it feems but of doubtful crtdit;!
and reafouable fufpicions may be entertained from there being no liitlindl
names of fmall kingdoms. Rates, or provinces ; though from recent ac-
c<)unt8 thele feem particularly to abound in the country ; and from iiie|
gnat river (Jogra being totally unknown and omitted.

The geograi)hy of Atia cannot be fuid to be complete till wehaveneivl
and correct maps of the central parts, particularly tif Tibet, which mayl
be called the heart of Afia, whence the llreams How into the vaftfoutheriij
regions of that extenlivc country. The fources of the Ganges and Indus,!
tbe Sampuo, and all the prodigious and fertile ilreams of exterior liidia,|
andof China, belong to this interelling region; and mud be exadh traced
and delineated, beiore we can have precife and loicntillc ideas of Aliaticl
j;t'ography.

• Tgp x]^\i. wilt. Ji.t7,

t UulLUe, iv. :>7i.

IliSTOHY.]!

TIBET.

373

HtsTORy.] The Jama of Tibet was probably the Preller John of the
niidille agt-*s ; and this itrange ajipellation was as ftrangely transferred by
portii"iiefe ignorance to the emperor of Abyflinia. Polo informs us that
fibet had been ravaged by the Mongols, fo that in his time it was almoft
(icfolnte. Tlie quiet fucceffion of the lamas would afford few materials
j„. liillory ; and the petty fecular chiefs* of dillin<^ provinces or king-
iiiiiis nuy perhaps fonietimi-s be traced in the Chinefe or Hindoo annals,
],jt would little intereil an European reaaer. As the tombs and mona-
»;rii.:t art' often conftruded of ftone, fome may remain of remote anti*
i;,itv. But the idolsi, cut in the rocks, are little calculated to imprefs
t'rjvillors with the idea of much perfection in the arts.

Rei.i«i<»*0 The religion of Tibet fcems to be the fchifmatical off-
1 [nring of that of the Hindoos f. It is reported to have received its ear-
I'-it admiflion in that part of Tibet bordering upon India, (which from
lifnce became the feat of the fovcreign laraas ;) to have traverfed over
I \1 .ntdiit'iix Tatarv, and to have been ultimately diffeminated over China
i!m1 Japan. It ftill boars a very clofe aiHnity with the religion of Brahma
i,ini;ir.v important particulars, b';t differs materially in its ritual, or cere-
ronial wDrfliip. Tibctians afTt-niblc in chapels, and unite together in
nrodiTJDiis numbers to perform their religious fcrvice, which they chant
ir, alternate recitative and chorus, accompanied by an extenfive band of
,i;;d and powerful inftruments ; fo that tliefe congregations forcibly recal
I to the rccolleftion both the folcmnity and found of the Roman Catholic

niafs.

There are alfo numerous monafteries, containing crowds of gylongSy or
Inorls, with a few annees, or nuns.

GovKiiNMKN'T.] The ruling government is the fpiritual, though the
|lir..a\vaH accultonicd to appoint a ///>«, or fecular regent, a right which
|liiU)robab!y paH'cd to the Cliincfe emperor. In Bootan, generally con-
Ifiored as a province of Tibet, there is a raja, or prince, called Daeb»
Idhole authority however is far from being firm or extenfive. The laws

rail, like the religion, hear fome affinity to that of the Hindoos.
Pom i.ATlON.] No eiliinate of the population of Tibet feems to have
\m atti'inpted ; but as the country may be faid to be wholly mountain-
|o'j«, and tlie t4imate exceffively cold, even under the 37th degree of lati-
Itiide, (the influence of mountains being far fuperior to that of imaginary
|?ws,) the people are thinly fcattcrcd, and the number of males tar ex-
Xivh tluit of females. From the eafe with which the conquell was
Ifr'cteJ by the Elnts, and other circumflances, it can fcarcely be con-
Ictiad that a inf)narch of all Tibet could have brought into the field an

irniv of mon' tliaii 50,000 ; and allowing tfiat (exclufive of the numc-
Jro'js ni'^ii' s) only cviTy tenth perfon affnmed arms, the population would
if i; ,'t a uullion, a circumltaiice which will not inrprife thofe who con-
liiu " that a few families in central Afia affume the name of a nation.

But .his luiinber is probably far too fmall ; and it can only be fuid that

khi.' populdtion feems fcanty.
RtVENLKs.] The revenues of the lama, and of the fecular princes,

iLvri

* VftTilici was fi)r fome linic fulijeA to fuu'ar k.iic«, lii'l-'d ifan l'« ; »iiil ib'' Iflna
rfiJtJ ai I..illii, with a power iimiUr tu tliat ot' ilif r|>uitiuil )i»iiu'e ofJitpaii. liile
lloiituUcillfU I'lui* (ontfiurcil tlic iVrular prime, and tti'i-ircrrol il'c wliolf powt-i i" ilic
W Pu H.iOi', IV. .S(>.) Ill irU'^i (be Ni|)alefi' having coihinitti' i uuiit mva^' s in
tiUi ttie lUipcror ft (hii.a frnt in army 10 |iMtrd\ the lama; in ('011)04 "mcc of wbith

I'thiiiifi hivi- 1 DdbltftieU military |kiI)s on the fn^ntuTt, fu tliat tlie iulcrctuit'e bvtweca
Ibritcmitry and Hii\gal ii now jirccludcd. Turner, 441.

9 b 3 ieera

CHINESE EMPIRE.

feem to be trifling ; nor can Tibet ever afpire to any political impon.
ance. In a commercial point of view, friendfiiip and free intercourfe
with Tibet might open new advantages to our fettlements in Benjral •
and in this defign repeated envoys to the lama were fent by Mr. Haftinps'
a governor who pofTefled the moft enlarged and enlightened mind, and an
aftive attention to the interefts of his country.

Character, &c.] Mr. Turner reprefents the charafter of the Ti.
betians as extremely gentle and amiable. The men are generally ftom
with fomething of the Tataric features, and the women of a ruddy brown
complexion, heightened like the fruits by the proximity of the fun, while
the mountains breezes bellow health and vigour.

** The ceremonies of marriage are neither tedious nor intricate in Ti.
bet*. Their courtfhips are carried on with little art, and quickly brought
to a conclufion. The priefts of Tibet, who Ihun the fociety of women
have no (hare in thefe ceremonies, or in ratifying the obligation between
the parties, which, it feems, is formed indiflblubly for life."

It is a remarkable charafteriftic of the country, that polygamy here
alTumes a different form from that of other oriental regions : the women
being indulged in a plurality of hufbands, initead of the reverfc. Jtjs
the privilege of the elder brother to feleft a wife, who ftands in an equal
relation to his other brothers, whatever may be the number f.

Such is the refpeft paid to the lama, that hi body is prcferved
entire in a fhrine ; while thofe of the inferior pricils are burnt, and
their afhes preferved in little hollow images of metal. But in general
the dead bodies are expofed to the bealls and birds of prey, in walled
areas ; and an annual fcrtival is held, as in Bengal and China, in honuiu- 1
of tlie dead.

A curious idea of the manners and culloms of the Tibetians maybe]
formed from Mr. Turner's account of his interview with the lama, then |
;in infant not capable of fpecch ; for, in the fpirit of the eailern metcni.
pfycofis, they fuppofe that the foul of the lama pafles from hislatt; budvi
into another, which they difcover by infallible marks.

Upon the whole, the Tibetians aj)pcar to have made a confidmblej
progrefs in civilization ; but the fcic-nces continue in a Hate of impfr.j
feftion ; the year, for inllante, being lunar, and the month coiifilling ofl
20 days. I

LvNGlAOE.] The origins of the Tibetian fpeech have not been pro.]
erly invcfligated. Tlie literature is chiefly of the religious kind, thel
ooka being fometimes printed with blocks of wood, on narrow (lips ofl
thin paper, fabiicat'-d from the fibrous root of a fmall flirub. In thitl
practice they n-feniMe the Chinefc ; while the Hindoos cnji;rave tlicirl
works with a Heel flylus upon the recent leaved of the palmyra treeJ
(boraffus flabelliformis,) aflbrding a fibrous fubllance, which feems isdeJ
llrndtible by vermin ;[;. The writing runs from tlie left to the nght, ad
in the languages of Europe.

The gylongs, or monks, pafs through a regular education : and, it i
to be fuppofed, fometimes teach children not dertincd to religious conn
finemcnt.

Cm'IKs and T0WNS.3 Of the cities and towns of Tibet little is knownJ
The capital is LaflTa : and feveral other names in the fouthern partalTiimrf
the charadter of towns in the maps, though probably mere villageiJ
There being little commerce, there is no middle clafs of people jbufl

Twtwr, p. usa. f I'» H.ildc and 'I'urtier.

t Tumor, Mi

TIBET.

375

the tranfition is rapid, from the miferable hut to the ftone palace or
monaftery.

Lafla, the capital of Tibet, is fituated in a fpacious plain, being a
finall city, but the houfes are of ftone, and are fpacious and lofty *.
The noted mountain of Putala, on which ftands the palace of the lama,,
is about {even miles to the eaft of the city. As La means a hill,
i in the native tongue, this name may imply the hill of Pouta or Boodh.
To the north of Lafla appears another vaft range of mountains, co-
«red with fnow. Lafla is in the province of Ou, and almoft in the centre
I of Tibet f.

Edifices.] Among the edifices the monaftcries may be firft men-
I tioned. Mr. Turner defcribes that of Teflioo Loomboo, as containing
tliree or four hundred houfes, inhabited by monks, befides temples,
jiaufoieums, and the palace of the fovereign pontiff. The buildings
are all of ilone, none lefs than two ftories in height, with flat roofs,
jnd parapets compofed of heath and brufhwood, probably to emit
the melting fnow. The centre window projefts beyond the wall, and
jr?i8 a balcony. Some of the palaces and fortrefles are defcribed and
litlineatcd by Mr. Timer; and the architefture feems refpeftable.
Bridges occur of various fantadic forms ; fomctimes confiding of
chains, drawn from precipice to precipice ; fometimes of beams, one
tnd being fixed in the fhore, while the other fucceffively increafes its
proieAion, till the uppermoft timbers fupport a fhort pafTage of planks,
thusrefembling the upper feftion of an oftagon. The roads amidft the
rocky mountains refemble thofe of Swifferland, and are particularly dan-
wreus after rain.

Manufactures.] The chief manufaftures of Tibet feem to be fliawls,
andiome woollen cloths ; but there is a general want of induftry ; and
tlie fine undermolt hair of the goats, from which (hawls are manufadured,
ischiefly fcnt to Caflimir. The principal exports are to China, confifting
of gold duft, diamonds, pearls, Irmb fkins, fome mulk, and woollen cloths.
Many of the Chinefe imports are manufa6lured articles. To Nipal,
Tibet fends rock fait, tincal or crude borax, and gold duft ; receiving in
return bafe filver coin, copper, rice, and coarfe cotton cloths. Through
Nipal is alfo carried on the chief trade with Bengal, in gold duft, tincal,
lindmufk. Tlie returns are broad cloth, fpices, trinkets, emeralds, fap-
es, lazulite, jet, amber, &c. With Afam in the S. E. there is no
ItDtercourfe ; and the little trade with Bootan may rather be regarded as
1 internal.

Trade.] The trade with China, which is the principal, is chiefly
Iwdufted at the jrarrifon town of Sining, in the weftern extremity of
I'tlie province of Shenfi, where tea is greedily bought by the Tibet)ans.
IThereis no mint in Tibet, as fuch an inftitution is prevented by religious
[prejudices ; but the bale filver of Nipal is current throughout the
■country.

Climate.] The climate of Bootan may be faid to be temperate,
Iwhen compared with that of Tibet Proper ; yet the winters ai"e very feverc
leten in the former country. '* In the temperature of the feafi^'is in Tibet
la remarkable uniformity prevails, as well as in tlieir periodical duration
?nd return. The fume div»fion of them takes place' here as in the more
Ifouthern region of Bengal. The fpring is marked, from March to May,
Iby a variable atmofphere ; heat, thunder ftorms, and occafionally with
Irefrcihing ihowers. From June to September is the fcafon of humidity,

4f ';im-'

}''4is

it:-: M"-^

*r: ^Jl: J. ,

^ Renntl, 306.

Bb4

f Berpouilll, ill. 12".

hen

3^6

CHINESE EMPIRE.

when heavy and continued rains fill the rivers- to their brim, whicli run
off from hence with rapidity to aflift in inundating Bengal. From 0(Xo.
ber to March a clear artd uniform fky fucceeds, feldom obfcured either by
fogs or clouds. For three months of this feafon a degree of coid is fdi
far greater perhaps than is known to prevail in Europe. Its extrcnn'
feverity is more particularly confined to the fouthern boundary of Tibet
near that elevated range of mountains wliich divides it from Afam'
Bootan, and Nipal *."

Thus the diftinguifliing charaAeriftic of tlie climate is that ex.
treme dry and parching cold which, under the latitude of 26', near
the'torrid zone of antiquated geography, rivals that of the Alps inlatj.
tudg 46^,

Face of the country.] From the fame intelligent traveller «e
learn that Bootan, with all its confufed and fhapelefs mountains, is co.
vered with eternal verdure, and abounds in forefts of large and lofty
trees f . The fides of the mountains arc improved by the hand of in.
duftry, and crowned with orchards, fields, and villages. Tibet Proper,
on the contrary, exhibits only low rocky hills, without any vilible vcw,
tation, or extenfive arid plains of an afpcft equally ftern ; while the bleak
and cold climate condrains the inhabitants to feek refuge in flieltered
vales and hollows, or amidft the warmeft afpefts of the rocks. Yet Ti.
bet produces great abundance and variety of wild fowl and game ; with
numerous flocks of (heep and goats, and herds of cattle, and is iiifelud
by many beads of prey ; while in Bootan fe^' wild animals are found
except monkeys, and a. few pheafants. Tibet Proper mull indeed be I
confidered as a mineral country, the mountains prefenting a peculiar naked
afpeft, indicative of rich ores.

Soil.] The nature of the foil here prohibits the progrefs of agrj.
culture. The vales are commonly laid under water on the approach of I
winter i in the fpring they are ploughed and fown, while frequent fiiower?,
and a powerful fun, contribute fpecdily to mature the crops J. The
autumn being clear and tranquil, the harveft is long left to dry on the
ground, and when fufficiently hardened is trod out by cattle. The
courfe of cultivation is wheat, peas, and barley ; rice being confined to a
more fouthern (oil.

Rivers.] The chief river of Tibet is, beyond all comparifonl
the Sampoo or Berhampootar, which rifing in the wcftirn regioii,
from the fame lofty mountains that give fource to the Ganges, pro.
ceeds in an E. and S. E. dii-edtion for about the fpace of 1000 EngliOi
miles, to the confines of Tibet and Afam, where it bends S. W,, andl
flows into the cltuary of the Ganges, after a farther courfe of about ^coj
Britifli miles.

The Hoan Ho and Kian Ku of the Chinefe alfo derive their ori-
gin from the eallern boundaries of Tibet. Of the other rivers little!
18 known ; but the great .Tapanefe river of Cambodia, or MaykaMngj
of Laos ; that of Nou Kia, fuppofed to pafs near Martaban into the]
gulph of Pegu; and the Jrrawady of tiiis lall country, are all be.
Iieved to derive their fourcrs from the mountains of Tibet, wiiich
may be (tyled the Alps of Afia. Nor mull it be forgotten that anotiurj
large river, called the Sardjoo or Gagra, which after a courfe of[
about 600 miles, nearly parallel on the E. with that of the Ganges,!
join* it near Chupra, alfo derives it fpring from the lofty wcltern mouii'l
t^ins of Tibe..

♦ Tiuncr, aoo.

t r. 216.

lb. 3il.

Lake?,jI

TIBET.

577

Englillil

their ori"

crs little I

aykHniigj

into the I

.' all k.

, wiiidil

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coiirle uf]
Gangcs,L

;rn moun'i

Lake^.j]

Laker.] Thefe Alpine regions, contain, asufuaU many lakes, the
mod confiderable being reprefented under the name of Terkiri, about
fjo Britifli Tiiles in length, and 25 broad. The Chinefe lamas have alfo
Jepiited many other lakes in the northern parts of the country ; where
there certainly exifts one very Angular, which yields the tincal or crude
borax. Equally uncommon is the lake to the S. of LafTa, which our
maps call Jamdrw or Paltc. This ftrange lake is reprefented as a wide
treiicli» of about two leagues broad, every where furrounding an ifland of
about twelves leagues in diameter ; if true, a lingular feature of nature.
Even the fmaller lakes in the fouth of Tibet Proper are in the winter
frozen to a great depth.

Mountains.] The vaft range of Tibetian mountains have already
been repeatedly mentioned ; but there is no accurate geographical deli-
neation of their courfe and extent. Thofe in the welt and fouth feem to
bend in the form of a ci-efcenl, from the fources of the Ganges to the
frontiers of Afam, in a N. W. and S. E. diretlion. To the north of
Sampoo a parallel and yet higher ridge feenfvs to extend, the northern ex-
trer.ities abounding with large fro/en lakes. The chief elevation ap-
pears as ufual to be central, to the fouth of the lake Terkiri, being called
Koiran.

From thefe great ranges many branches extend N. and S. as in the
Alps, and their names may perhaps be traced, but with little accuracy,
in the general map of Tibet, and atlas of the provinces, drawn up by
D'Anville from the Iketches of the miflionaries, and already repeatedly
quoted.

Forests.] Bootan, the fouthern province of Tibet, abounds with
forells containing many European trees, though the oak be wanting ; and
ieveral peculiar to Afia. Nipal, the adjoining province to the welt, pro-
bably prefcnts fimilar features. The high fiiowy mountains which con-
tain the fources of the Ganges are perhaps barren of vegetation, a character
generally applicable to Tibet Proper.

Zoology.] In Bootan few wild animals are obfervable, except mon-
keys ; but Tibet abounds with game of various defcriptions. The horfes
arc of a fmall lize, or what we term ponies, but fpirited to a degree of
obltinacy. The cattle are alfo diminutive. The flocks of Iheep are
numerous, commonly fmall, with black heads and legs ; the wool foft,
and the mutton excellent. It is a peculiarity of the country that the
latter food is generally eaten raw. When dried in the frofty air it is not
difagreeable in this Hate, to an European palate *.

Tlic goats are numerous, and celebrated for producing a fine hair,
which is manufadured into fliawls, and which lies beneath the exterior
coarfe coat. Nor mull the fiugular breed of cattle be forgotten, called
Yak hy the Tatars, covered with thick long hair j the tail being peculiarly
flowinir and glofly, and an article of luxury in the call, where it is ufed
to drive away tlie flies, and fometimes dried for ornaments, Thefe cattle
do not low ; but, when uneafy, make a kind of grunting found, whence
the hreed is called the los grunniens.

The mu(l{ deer delights in intenfe cold. This valuable animal has
two long curved tulles, proceeding downward from the upper jaw,
which feem intended to dig roots, liis ufual food. The figure of
the body I'omewhat refembles the hog, while the hair approaches
the quills of the porcujniie. The mulk, which is only found in the
nialc, \% formed in a little tumour at the navel } and is the genuine and

til

f Tvirner, 308,

authentic

378

CHINESE EMPIRE.

authentic article fo ftyled, being commonly black, and divided by thin
cuticles *.

The lakes abound with water fowl in the fummcr, many of which may
perhaps be new to zoology ; and little is difcovered concerning the m
and infe^ls of this fingular country.

Mineralogy."] The mineralogy is better known from the account
appended to Mr. Turner's Journey in 178J?, from which it appears that
Bootan does not probably contain any metal except iron, and a fmall
portion of copper ; while Tibet Proper, on the contrary, feems to
abound with rich minerals. Gold is found in great quantities, fon,e.
times in the form of duft, in the beds of rivers, fometimes in large
mafles, and irregular veins. There is a lead mine, two days journey
from Tefhoo Lumboo, the ore being galena. Cinnabar, rich in quick.
fdver, is alfo found ; and there arc ftrong indications of copper. Rock
fait is another produft of Tibet. But in general the metals cannot be
worked, as there is a complete deficiency of fuel ; and coal would bt far
more precious than gold.

Tlie molt peculiar produd of Tibet is tincal, or crude borax ; con.
eerning which Mr. Sanders, who accompanied Mr. Turner, gives the
following interefting information. *< The lake from whence tincal and
rock fait are collected, is about fifteen days journey from Telhoo Lum.
boo, and to the northward of it. It is encompaffed on all iides by
rocky hills, without any brooks or rivulets near at hand ; but its wa-
ters are fupplied by fprings, which being faltifli to the tafle are not uki
by the natives. The tincal is depofited or formed in the be d of" the lake •
and thofe who go to coUedt it dig it up in large maffes, which they after.
wards break into fmall pieces for the convenience of carriage, expofing it
to the air to dry. Although tincal has been collected from this lake for
a great length of time, the quantity is not perceptibly diminifhed , and
as tlie cavities made by digging it ix>on wear out, or fill up, it i-s an opj.
nion with the people that the formation of frefh tincal is going on. They
have never yet met it in dry crround, or high fituations, but it is found in
the fliallowell depths, and the borders of the lake ; which deepening
gradually from the edges towards the centre, contain too much water to
admit of^ their fearching for the tincal conveniently ; but from the decpeft
parts they bring rock fait, which is not to be found in (hallows, or near
the bank. The waters of the lake rife and fall very little, being fup.
plied by aeon ftant and unvarying fource, neither augmented by the influx
of any current, nor diminilhed by any ilream running from it. The
lake, I was affured, is at leaft 20 miles in circumference ; and, Handing
in a very bleak fituation, is frozen for a great part of the year. The

f>eople employed in coUeding thefe faks are obliged to defift from their
abour fo early as Odobcr, on account of the ice, Tincal is ufed in
Tibet for foldering, and to promote the fufion of gold and filver.
Rock fait is uuiverfally ufed f»r all domellic purpofes in Tibet, Bootan,
and.Nipalf."

Medical waters.] There are many mevlical waters in various paru
of this extenfive country ; nor is their falutary ufe unknown to the
natrvce.

* Turner, 50©.

f lb. 406,

( 379 )

JAPAN.

CHAPTER I.

> »

HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY. •'

Y^^;;. — Extent. — Original Population. — Progreffive Geagraphy.'—Hif'
torical Epochs and Antiquities.

THE kingdom, or, as it is by fome ftyled, the empire of Japan, has
by moft geographers been clafTed among the Afiatic ides, and
lias in confequence been treated with more brevity than its import-
ance demands, for, excepting China, no exifting Afiatic monarchy can
afpire to fuperior rank, or is more calculated to excite rational curiofity
from the fmgiilarity of its government, abundant population, progrefs
in tlie a'ts of life, and peculiar manners of the people. The Japa-
fiefe iflaiids may in fome meafure be compared with Great Britain and
Ireland, forming a grand infular power near the eaftern extremity of
AfiB) hJi*-' '^'I'^t **f M'^ Briti'h iflcs'near the weftern extremity of Europe.
Norare ample modern materials wanting in the travels of KiEn-jjftfr and
Thunberg.

Names.] Marco Polo, the father of modern Afiatic geography,
mentions Japan by the name of Zipangri, or Zipangu, ■■ inha-

bitants ihemfelves call it Nipon or Nifon, and tlie Chinefe Sippon and
Jepuen.

Extent.] This empire extends from the 3Cth to the 41ft degree of
N. latitude ; and, according to the moft recent map?, from the I3lil to
the i42d degree of E. longitude from Greenwich. Befides many fcaaller
ifles, it pn-fents two confidirable ones in the S.W., that of Kiullu ^alfo
termed Saikokf, or the weftern country), and that of Sikokf. But by
fiir the moft important ifland is that of Nipon, to the N.E. of the two
former. The geography of Ksmpfer has been corrected by recent
voyages, according to whiih tlie k-ngth of Kinfiu from N. to S. is about
two degrees, or 140 Britifti miles; th-' grcateft breadth about 90. Si-
kokf is about 90 Britifh miles in length by l.alf the breadth. The grand
iflt' of Nipor is in length from S. to N.E. not lefs than 750 Britifli
miles; but is fo narrow in proportion, thnt the medial breadth cannot be
alTumed above 80, though in two projedting parts it may double that
number. Thefe idands are divided into provinces and dillrifts, as ufual
111 the moft civilized countries.

To the N. of Nipon is another large ifle, that of Jefto, or Chicha,
which having received fome J;ipaiiefe colonics, is generally regarded as
fubjeft to Japan ; but being inhibited by a lavage people, is rather
conlidered as a foreign coiiqucft than as a part of this civihzed
tnipiie.

OuKiivAL I'oi'ULATioN.] The original popul.ition of Japan has been
little illuftrated ; but the Japanefe fecm to be a kindred race with the
Chinefe, though, according to Ka;mpfer, the languages be radically
dilHnft. But if compared with that of Corea, the nearell land, and the
latter w ith tlu' Chinefe, perhaps a gradation might be obfervable. The
Jap.inefe may have migrated from tiie continent, when both the Chinefe

II and

.*^« n

38o

JAPAN.

and themfclves were in the earlieft ftages of fociety ; and the complete
infular feparatioii may have given rife to a language rendered peculiar bv
the progrcfs of a diltinft civilization. ^

PuocaiEssiVK geoctRApiiy.] Before the account puhliflicd bv
Kaempfer, Japan had been imperfectly explort>«3 1> - the Portugucfe • apj
fince 1730, the date of Kaempfcr's publicatioi^, :-.u») important improve.
ments have been made.

Historical kpochs.] The hiflory of thei. '.wn country is imivcr-
fally Ihidie* by the Jcipanefe ; and K Ttnpfcr has producer! an elaborato
abftraft, divided into three (.poc: I.-, th.; Fahulous, the doubtful, and the
certain.

The fird is wholly fu'^itious. T\\v j'ccond, or uncertain epoch, is by
Ka;mpfer interwoven with the Cliinefe hiflory ; this part of his workdt'.
monftrating that the Japanefe tiiemfelvcs at leaft acknowledge their tro.
vernment and civili/alion to have been derived from China. Sin No,,
one of thefe Chinefc monarchs, admitted by the Japanefe into tlieir
annals, is rcprcfented with the head of a bull, or with two horns a'*
having taught the ufc of agriculture and herds * ; perhaps the finij)le and
natural origin of the Jupiter Ammon, and fimilar images of claifical
antiquity.

The third, or certain period, begins with the hereditary fuccefilon of
the ecclefiaftical emperors, from the year 660 before the Chriftian xra
to the year of Chrift 1585, during wiiich 107 princes of the fame lineaee
governed Japan. At the laft period the fecular princes afFumcd the fn.
preme authority. In general the reigns are pacilic ; though at very
diltant intervals the Mandfhurs and Coreaiis occalionally invaded Japan
but were always defeated by the valour of the inhabitants. In the reioa
of G«uda, the nineteenth Dairi, or fpiritual emperor, the Monguls under
Mooko attempted a grand invafion of Japan, after having conquered
China about fourteen years befoce. The number of fmall veflcls is ex-
aggerated to 4000, and that of the army to 240,000 ; and it is pro,
bable that numerous Chincfe junks contained a formidable army of Mon.
guls. But they were difperfed and almoll wholly dellroyed by a
Furious tempeft, which the Japanefe pioufly afcribed to the gods their
proteftors. In 1585 the generals of the crown, or fecular emperors,
who were alfo hereditary, aflTumed the fupreme power ; the Dairis being
afterwards confined, and ttridly guarded, that they might not re-affume
their ancient authority.

Antiquities.] The temples and palaces being conftructed of wood,
few monuments of antiquity can remain. Some of the caftlcs of the
nobility have walls of earth or ftone ; but the moft ancient relics are pro.
bably the coins and idols.

• Ksempfcr, i 231. French tranflaiion.

CHAP.

^m* iii|i."ii,»upii

JAPAN.

CHAPTER II.

POLITICAL GEOGKArilY.

381

v^jfa'icn,' — Government. — Laws. — Population. — Colonies. •—-Army.-^
Navy. — Revenues. — Political Importance and Relations.

Religion.]

THE eftabliflied religion of Japan is a polytheifm,
joined with the acknowledgment of a fupreme
creator. There are two principal fefts, tl»at of Sint© and that of
Biidfdo. The firft acknowledge a fupreme being, far fuperior to the
little claims and worfliip of men, whence they adore the inferior deities
3S mediators, the idea of a medi:vtor beiiTg indifpenfable in almoft every
form of religion. They abllain from animarfood, detell bjpodfhed, and
will not touch any dead body *.

The priefts are either fecular or moiiaftic ; the latter alone being cn-
triifted with the myfteries. The feftivals and modes of worfhip ar«
cheerful, and even gay ; for they regard the gods as beings who folely
delight in difpenfing happinefs. Bendes the hrft day of the year, and
three or four other grand feilivals, the firil day of the month is always
ki'pt as a holiday. There are feveral orders of monks and nuns,
as in the Roman Catholic fyftem ; but human nature is every where
the fame.

The fedl of Budfdo was imported from Hindoftan, being the fame
with that of Budha or Boodh, reported to have been in Ceylon about
1000 years before the birth of Chriil. Pafling through China and
Corea it has been mingled with foreign maxims, but the tenet of the
ir.etempfychofis remains : wicked fouls being fuppofed to migrate into
the bodies of animals, till they have undergone a due purgation.

Soon after the difcovery of this country by the Portuguefe, jefuitic
raiflionaries arrived in 1549 ; and their fucceflbrs continued to diffufe
their doftrine till 1638, when 37,000 Chriftians were maflacred. Several
perfecutions had formerly taken place, and in 1 590 upwards of 20,oo»
are faid to have perifhed. The pride and avarice of the Portuguefe con-
fpired with the vain ambition of the jefuits, (who, not contented with
their ftalion, endeavoiu"ed to inh-oduce themfelvcs into the governing
councils of the nation,) firft to contaminate and render odious the religion
which they profeflbd, in its pure principles elTentially oppofite to fuch
views, and afterwards to produce this melancholy catailrophe ; the
exillence of the Chriftian faith being through fuch pcrverfion found
incompatible with that of a ftate otherwife univerfally tolerant. Since
that memorable epoch Chrillianity has been held in fupreme deteftation ;
and the crofs, with its other fymbols, are annually trampled under
foot; but it is a fable that the Dutch arc conftrained to join in
this ceremony. 1

GovKHXMEN'T.j The Kubo, or fecular emperor, is now Tolc mo-
narch of the country : but till near the end of the fcventeenth century the
Dairis, pontiffs, cr fpiritual monarchs, hold the fuprenje authority, being
appointed by the high ecclefiaftical court according to their laws of fuc-
cciiion. Yet occafionally the appointment has been controverted ; and
Japan has been ravaged by many civil wars. The ecclefiailical dignities
were of fix oiders, fome belonging to particular offices, others merely

* TliUNberg, iv. 1 9.

; ■«-■

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t4.^t- /.» ih* :h "*

^«2

JAPAN.

Iionorary. The fecular prince is accuftomed to confer, with the ccnfent
of the dairi, two honorary ranks, equivalent to our noblcincn and
knights. The ecclcfiaftical court is chiefly occupied with Hterary pur
fuits, the dairi refiding at Miaco ; and his court remains, though not jr
its former fplendour.

The government of each province is intruded to a refidcnt prince
who is itriftly refponfible for his adminiftration, his family remaining
at the emperor's court as hollages ; anol he is himfclf oblioed to
make an annual appearance, the journey being performed with great
pomp, and accompanied with valuable prefents. The emperor, as jn
the feudal times of Europe, derives his chief revenue from liis own
eftate, confiding of five inferior provinces, and fome detached towns
Each prince enjoys the revenues of his fief or government, with
which be fuptports his court and military force, repairs the roads and
defrays every civil expence. The princes of the fird dignity are
ftyled Daimio, thofe of inferior rank Siomio. They are generallv
hereditary, but the Siomios are not only obliged to leave their fa.
Aiilies at Jcdo the capital, but to rcfido there themfelvcs for fj^
months in the year. The fingular conditution of Japan therefore
confids of an abfolute hereditary monarchy, fupported by a number
of abfolute hereditary princes ; whofe jealoufy of each otiicr's power
confpires, with domedic pledges, to render them '"'ibfervient to one
fupreuie.

Laws.] The fuperiority of the laws of Japan over thofe cf
Europe has been loudly proclaimed by Kxmpfer. The parties them.
felves appear, and the caufe is determined without delay. Yet Kimp.
fer's information on this head is dcfeftive, as lie docs not mention any
code of laws. Thunberg informs us that the laws are few, but rigidly
enforced, without regard to pcrfons, partiality, or violence *. Moll
crimes are punidiod with death, but the fentencc mud be fignedbythe
privy council at Jeui». Parents and nlations are made antw'erable for
the crimes of thofe whofc moral educntioii tlu y ought to have I'liperin.
tended. The police is excellent, there uot only being a chief magif.
trate of each town, but a commidary of each dreet, cleAed by the
inhabitants to watch over property and tranquillity. Two inhabitants in
their turn nightly patrole the dreet to guard agaiiid fire.

The bed proof that the laws are lalutary is that few crimes are com.
mitted, and few punifhmcnts are inflifted. The brief code, accoidiiig
to Thunberg, is polled up in every town and village, in large letters, on
a fpot furrounded with rails f .

Population. J The population of the Japanefe empire, like that of
other Afiaiic dates, cannot be treated with much precilion Ancient
and modern travellers feen> to have paffe ' this fubjed in lilencc. Per-
haps the Japanefe have fome prejudice againd any cnunierMion, or
clioole from political views to bury it in obfcurity ; while the Chi-
nefc, with like defign, may perhaps magnify the population of their
country. AH travellers however agree that the populatiun is fur.
priiing, and though a great part of the country be mountainous, yrt
even the mountains are the objed^s of ohdinate cultivation. Thua>j
berg obfervcs that the capital, Jedo, is faid to be 63 Britilh mi!ei|
in circumference, and at an) rate rivals Pekin in fizej. Manv 0^
*.he villages are three quarters of a mile in length ; and fome fo longj
that it requires fevcral hours to walk through them : and thefc large

* Tkuabor;;, iv. C4.

t l\). if, 7t.

t lb. iu. aS).

• Tiur.bcfjf, i;. ,j4

t Tliuiil'Pfg iv, H

'jioufand. ol milli,,,,, ^

"""••-'luitiiuniinpliM

vilbg«ll

JAPAN.

i«3

villages frequently occur at very fliort diftan es. Kaempfer fays that
the number of people daily travelling on the highways is inconceivable,
-nd the tokaidot the chief of the feven great roads, is fometimet
more crowded than the moft frequented ftreets of European capitals *.
Varenius the geographer, who juftly efteemed this country fo inte-
refting ^^ ^^ deferve a particular defcription, has from the beft au-
thorities eftimated the (landing army maintained by the prioces and
governors at 368,000 infantry, and 38,000 cavalry : while the Kubo
emperor maintains ioo,ooj foot, and 20,000 horfe : thus conftituting
in all a regular force of 468,000 infantry, and 58,000 cavalry f. It
is probable that this army does not bear a greater proportion to the
population, than that of an European ilate in time of peace ; and as
the army doubles that of France under the monarchy, fo the popu-
lation may alfo be double. ^ Perhaps a more fafe eftimate may be
formed, by fuppofing the population of Japan to equal that of China 5
and the former country being about one tenth part the fize of the latter,
the population will be about 30,000,000.

Colonies.] Though the national laws prohibit emigration, yet
where the Japanefe make conquefts, they fcem to regard the country as
their own, and to form fettlements without hefitation. Hence Japanic
colonies may be found in Jeffo, and other adjacecA iflcs : nay even in ifles
of the Indian archipelago, fo that their laws, as in China, feem rather
theoretic,

AuMY.] The army has been already mentioned as amounting to
more than half a million ; and the character of the people is fmgu-
larly brave and refolute. The navy, like that of the other oriental
powers, is beneath notice. The Japanefe vcfTels arc open at the
llern, fo that they cannot bear a boillerous fea ; and though, hke
the Chinefe, they have the ufc of the compafs, -yet it ivS inconceivable
how they could in former times, make voyages, as is alTerted, to
Formofa, and oven to Java.

RtVENLEs.] The revenues of this empire are minutely Uated by
Varenius, according to princes and provinces, the fum total bring 2,834
tons of gold, on the Flemifli mode of computation ; and taking the
ton at only io,0Ool. ilerling, the amount would be 28,340,000!. iler>
ling, bclides the provinces and cities which are innaediately fubjedl
to the emperor. Thefe revenues muil not however be confidered as
national, being only yielded in coin to the variorjs princes. The em-
peror however, belidci> the large revenues of his provinces, lias a con-
lidcrablc trcafure in gold and (ilvcr, difpofed in chells of 1000 taels,
or thayla, each being nearly in value to a Dutch rix dollar, or about
four (liillings and four-pence Knglifli money As the frenzy of man-
kind generally expends the public revenue \\\ the fupport 01 an army,
the real weight of the Japanefe rcfourtes may bed be cllimatcd from
the numerous army fupportcd J:.

PuLiTicAL iMi'ORTANCK ANU HKLATioNs.] Japan maintains no po.
litical relations with a y other (late ; and conliiiing of idands without a
navy, its external political importance is of courfc confmed, if not anni-
hilated.

* 'fliuiibt-rg, W. ;)4S. mid iii. 'J 1 8. f Oefir. Jap. ct|'. ix.

t Tliuiil'crg iv. H. (xhi(>iit«a tli( rcvtiiur of the ciuwu bixlt at muir titan forty-lour
iliourmidii ol mllliuni ot'fai kiot riir, ciirli fuck Ix iii}; abuut tHeiitj |>u\ii)iU waii;,lit Uut
ilui('*]Lalatiuniin[ili(» ituUtin^ to au Uurojiaaii reaJcr.

CHAP.

4>Jii (Jm'£^ 4»,

384

JAPAN.

CHAPTER III.

CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.

Manners and Cujloms. ~ Language Literature. — Education.— Cities and

Towns. — Edifices,'— Roads. — Inland Navigation. — Manufailures and
Commerce.

M., !,„„«. .„ T A nECKN'T traveller lias defcribed the npr
ANNERS AND CUSTOMS.] /\ r r ^,- ,- , " I'le per.

■'JTX. Ions ot this lingular people in the

following terms *. *♦ The people of this nation are well made, aftive

free and eafy in their motions, with ftout limbs, although their llrength

is not to be compared to that of the northern inhabitants of Europe.

They are of a yellowifli colour all over, fometimes bordering on brgwn

and fometimes on white. Ladies of diftinftion, who feldom cro out in

the open air without being covered, are perfectly white. It is by their

eyes that, like the Chinefe, thefe people are diftinguiftiable. Thefe or.

gans have not that rotundity which thofe of other nations exhibit ; but ar--

oblong, fmali, and are funk deeper in the head, in conffquenc^ of which

thefe people have almoft the appearance of being pink-eyed. Their eves

are dark brown, or rather black ; and the eye-lids form in the great aii le

of the eye a deep furrow, which makes the .lapanefe look as ifthey were

fliarp lighted, and difcriminates thorn from other nations. The evibrow,

are alio placed fomewhat higher. Their liead-^ are in general large, and

their necks fhort : their hair black, thick, and fliining, Irom tln' nd tLev

make of oils. Their nofcs, though not flat, are yet rather thick anil

fliort."

This highly civilized people mud of courfe difplay great diverlityof
charafter, but the virtues far preponderate over the vices ; and even their
pride is ufeful, as it prevents them from (looping to the mean irick of
the maritime Chinefe. The .Tapanefe ufo great varieties of food a^l
fauces. 7^'ie maftcr or millrcfs of the houle is not haralkd with ihi
trouble of carving, the meat being previoufly cut into finall pitves, ferved
up in bafons of porcelain, or japanned wood. The general drink is facki,
t)r beer made of rice ; which lall artirle alio fupplies the phico of bread,
'J'hey ufe many kinds of vegetables and fruit*. The ule of tea is alio u;„.
verfal ; but wine and fpirituous liquors are unknown. The ule of to.
bacco feems to have been introduced by the Portuguefe ; and the j-iaaici"
of fmoaking has becoir..- general.

The houfes of the .lapanefe are of wood, coloured white, . < as to re.
femble (lone : and, though roomy and commod.ou^, never ■ '
liories in height, the upper ferving for lofts ami garret ^, and l(.i ,
occupied f . Each houfe forms but one room, which may be divided I'lin
apartments at pleafnre, by moveable partitions llidiiig in grooves. 'IV
ulV neither chairs nor t. ble<, fitting oii Uraw iiiat.i, the nual bviufr feful
apart to each on a fmall fqnare wooden falver. In Jedo the houfcidiv
»overed with Mes ; but the general fabric is a frame work of wood, iplit
bamboos, and clay.

The dreft. cGiililts of trowfers ; and what we call night gowns, or luoi? 1
rubes of filk or cotton, are univerfally worn by both kxcH | . Thefe .irj
falU-ned by a girdle ; the number being increaied according to thr cuM-
ueU of the weather. Stockings are iiot ufcd ; and the iliocs are cuiiui<

lijoanefc affirir

• Thupbrrgt'iii. 351.

t lb. iii. Ill,

lb. tji. 'i'jj.

JAPAN.

38;

■ities and
ures and

the per.

in the

?, aftivc,

ilrength

Europe.
in brywn,
go out in
6 by tlieir
Thefe or.
t ; but are
; of which
Tlieir eyes
Treat air^lc

they Wire
; eyebrow-,
I large, and
Ik' nil' they
r thick and

clivcrlity uf

even their
n trick' of
f food a:id
vd with the
iL'ces, fcrved

nk ih facki,

e of bread,
is alfo ui.i-
ulc of to-

the j.'iutu''

i as ui rr. 1
.rued iw')!
L'ldoif bf in); I
■divKledmui'

]ves. Tl/v'
[).iiip[ fi'fvedj
houfi"^ <ii^'
wood, Ipht

ms, or looif'

Thcfe .iF-

I to the tuld-

Iv conuiioi 1*

df rice draw. The men fliave th-'^ liead from the forehead to the nape,
but the hair on the ful'S is turned up and failened at the crown of the
head: conic;il hats made of grafs are worn on journeys, but the fafliion
of wearing the hair forms the common economical coverinor of the head.
The Japancfe ftltivals, the games and theatrical amufemcnts, equal
thofe of inoft civilized nations.

I,angi'Ac;f,.] Thunberg has publidiecl a curious vocabulary of the
lapanefc language, which leems indeed to have little connection with the
nionofvUabic f])ecch of the Ci.inefe. There are alfo diftionaries drawn
upbythe .lejuits.

LiTEKATiUE.] In the fciencefl and literature the Japanefe yield to few
of the oriental nations. This fcnfible people ftudy houfe-keeping, or
domeltic econowr, as an indifpenfible I'cience ; and next to this every
Japancfe is verfcd »n the hillory of his coimtry*. Aftronomy is culti-
vated, but has not arrived at much perfcdfion. They furvey with tolerable
accuracv ; and their maps are as exadl as their imperfe6^ inflruments will
permit. The nrt of printing is ancient, but they ufe blocks, not moveable
tvpes, and only imprefs one lide of the paper. Some of their arts and
niamifaciures e\\>n furpafs thofe of Europe. There are excellent work-
iv,ji in iron aud copper ; and to no eaft ern country do they yield in
r;,;i!mfai!;liires of lilk and cotton ; while in varnidiing wood they are well
known to have no equals. Glafs is alfo common ; and they even form
tflefcopes. The porcelain is deemed fuocrior to that of China. Their
[words difplay incomparable fl-cill j aiid many varieties of paper are pre-
pared from the bark of a fpecies of mulberry tree.

Edltation.] There are manyfchools in which the children aretaupht
to read and write ; their education being accompli filed without the ue-
jraJation of pcrfonal chaiUlement, while courage is inilillcd by the re-
petition of foiigs in piaife of dcccufed heroes.

CniF.s AND TOWNS.] The capital city of the Japanofe empire is .Tedo,

f iitrically lituated on a bay in the S. E. ilde of the chief illand Nipou.

The houfes never exceed two (lories, with numerous fliops towards the

iheets. The harbour is io fliallow that an European fliip would be

oLhijed to aiiclior at the dillance of five leagues. A tire happened in

this city in tlie year 1772, whi( h is faid to have confunied fix leagues in

[Ifiigth, and three in breadth ; ;uid earthqu ikfs ar» ii?re familiar as in

«ther rejjions of .lapan. The emperor's palace is iuT.)unded with ilone

IriK, and ditch<'8 witii drawbridges, foimm;,^ of \i^:l' .> • onrKU-rablc

3wn, '.,iid to be five leagues in circumfcrcB*^ . f . \v thtt, acr. fimi'ai'

lin'tanci". of oriental pop^kition and fxtent, thouj?^ I.<* oelt ; ' iioritie>»

Ibefollowed, vet the re**ier iway, with th' auth .?]- n<l his li /, The

Jioaiiffe affirm that .ledo w<(«»ld oc< iiuy a j., rfuw twenty -on. !i )urs to

Ik round its circumference, which mtjf^t thu. *nx jVn to about twen v-

Idi. 1, ..;»*(.; : and tli-iKt •< is fe\in ieagu- j ;ii h'l'^ti- '• ( i? in breadth ^'i

liVer pjiffes fhr<>'*^i the capital, and belld. wide diu lies of ine

iwv, 'uppliv s ftveral t.<uHls. There »r# im> walls no"-' i" tr -atioiij,

rhich iHTe unknown in JapHnefe citiOb : but tht *. are mat y fplrndid

jufi's uf tin- II ru, i'>us prini't 1.

Miaco, thr iyifAml c«^it'd, sfii' 1 city of the cmpirf , i placed

»iiinlaiid fittf^MMi afanflt i^"- /. vV from Jfdo, on .' "< '>l;iiij.

M It is the &eik ecm tl m t< i ,, <<id i:> ceh-brau-d fvi tt.* prMiripal

Miifju'furcs, It is rflfu the lti*t </f rtie xmpvrml nuui . a**] the dun'i

rt ^'itiyr titvr.tr) , all bwuks mv printed here. Krmp*.t' ii.iu:r.,i ut

^ TliuiiUrj;. V, >4.

c«

t \$ii.fm.

if ;i

'■♦■ fiflla, '^♦^■■'1

Tf ''

4^ Hm»^t^^ — .

595

JAPAN.

that, upon an enumeration taken in 1674, the inhabitants were found to
amount to 405,642 , of whom were males 182,070 ; and 225,57a females
without including the numerous attendants of the dairi. *

Nagafaki, being the nearelt city to the Dutch fadlory in the ifle of
Dezima, has of courfe attracted the particular attention of our travellers
The harbonr is the only one in whicli foreign (hips are permitted to an^
chor, a privilege now enjoyed only by the Dutch and Chinefe. "Yhc
Portuguefe trade raifed this place, from a mere village, to its prefent
fize and confequence.

The other cities in the Japanefe empire may amount to thirty or forty
but, except thofe on the route from Nagafaki to the capital, few have
been jxplored by Eiu-opean travellers. Ofacca, and Sakai, boall th»
name of imperial cities.

Edikicrs.] Of the principal edifices ci the Japanefe fome ideamav
be formed from the defcriptions which our travellers give of the imperial
palace, which, like thofe of the Chinefe, confills of many dwellings, oc.
cuping an immenfe fpace. The faloon of the 100 mats is 600 feet in
. length by 300 in breadth. There is a high fquare tower (a market'
dignity not permitted here to the grandees, though ufiial at their own j
courts), which confirts of fcveral llages richly decorated; and molt of
the roofs are ornamented with golden dragons. The pillars and ceilinm
are of cedar, camphor, and other precious woods ; but the only furniture
confifts of white ir.ats, fringed with gold. The emperor gives audience
in a fmaller chamber, where he is leated on carpets.

The roads fcem to be maintained in excellent order ; but the mountain.
ous nature of the country has prevented the formation of canals, wliich I
indeed the uiriverfal proximity of the fea renders almoil unnecelTary;
otherwifc fo fenfible and niduilriou; a nation would doubtlefs have imj.
tated the Chinefe example.

Mani'FACtiiiks and commehce.] The chief mannfaftiircs of Japaoi
have been already mentioned in the account of arts and fcicnces. Tliel
inland commerce is very confulerable, being free and exempted fromim.l
ports *. The harbours are crowded with large and fmall veflels ; the high]
roads with various goods ; ami the Hwps well replonifhed. Large fairjj
are alfo held in diflerent phices, to vvliich there is a great coiicturfe of j
people. The trade with China i» the moll important, conlilling of ra*|
fjlk, fugar, turpentine, driij^.s, .^c. while the exports are copper in bjrsJ
lacquered ware, &c. 'I'hunhcr^^ leprefents the profits of the Dutcli tradj]
as very incoiiliderable, lo that the cunipany only employed two (liips.
The Japanefe coins are of remarkable f«)r!n, the giJd beingcallfd KobaiigJ
The filver called Kodama fome times reprehnts Dailiok,tliegoilofriclic*J
fitting uj;on two barrel* of rice, with a hammer in his right lianilt ■>ml i
lack at hi> left. The Seiii, of cupper or iron, arc llnmg Uke the Chintljj
pieces uf ii limilar vidue.

* iliuuLcfii, IV. iy(>.

CHAPJ

JAPAN. 387

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL GEOGRAPMV.

ryuU and Seafom.—Faee of the Country.— -^ Soil and Agriculture.-^
j^lycrs.- — Lakes. -—- Mountains. - — Volcanoes. — Forejls. -^ Botany. "-^
loohsS' — Mineralogy. — IJles.

-, 'T~^HE heat of fummef is in Japan extreme-
I Climate and seasons, j j^ j^ ^j^j^^^^ ^^ ^ ^^^^j^ ^^ idfu^portable,

Ljrenot the air cooled by the fea breezes. Equally fevere is the cold
in winter, when the wind blows from the north or north-eall. The wea*
(lieris changeable throughout the year ; and there are abundant falls of
Irin, efpecially in the latfaki, or rainy months, which begin at mid-
Icmier*. This copious moillure is the chief caufe of the fertility of
Jaoa'i, and its confequent high degree of population.
Thunder is not unfrequent ; and tempeits, hurricane's, and rarth-
Imakes are very common. Thunberg has publiflied his thermometrical
Itblirvations, from which a clear idea may be formed of the climate. The
Ufatcll degree of heat at Nagafaki was 98^ in the month of Auguft ^
lirdthe fevereft cold in January 35 . The thunder in t!ic fumrnor montlis
iMeiicrally during the night ; and the fnow will remain on the ground
li djys even in the fouth.

OK THE COUNTRY.] Though there are plains of confidorahle

Jtitent, 33 appears from the def(pription of Miaco, yot Tluiiiberg allVirea

liiithtthe wliole country confifts of mountains, iiill?, ami valleyi^, tlu»

all being moilly rocky and precipitous, and invellcd witji a turbulent

The face of the country is alfo diTcrfificd with iraiiy rivxTLi and

Llets,by numerous fmgular tribes of vegetation ; and j.';e!ieru11y excites

efoL'ial ideas of induftry, more calculated perhaps to delight tlir; heart

ai the wild appearances of deferted nature. The foil in itftlf uiay

elaid to be rather barren ; but the prolific Ihowerf? confpirc with labour

manure to overcome even this obdacle. xvgricultiire is a fcicuce

I the highelt eilimation with this fcnlible people, fo that except tlie

loil barren and untradtable mountains, the e:»i'th is univcrfally cultivated ;

I even molt of the mountains and hills. Free from all feudal and

xleliallical impediments^ and highly refpecU-d by ether focial clafTes,

! farmer cultivates the foil with freedom aiid ..idiillry. There are na

mmon'! ; an! if any portion be left uncuhivated it may be fcized by a

kinduftr d neighbour. The Japanefo nivde of manuring is to form

xtureof excrements of ail kinds, with kitchen refufe, which is carried

bails intu the field, and poured with a ladle upon the plants, when they

we attained the height of about fix inches', fo that they inilantly receive

t whole benefit. The weeding is aifo carried to the utmoil degree of

Itety.

iTi.c fides uf the hills arc cultivated by means of (lon« walls, fupporting
Vtl plats fown with rice or cfculent roots. " Thoufands of thefe beds
pra moil of their mountains, and give them an appearance which cxcitet
tijreatcll aftoni(hment in the brealts of the fpcftators."
iRice is the chief grain; buck wheat, rye, barley, and wheat being little
The fw • rt potatoe is abundant ; with feveral forts of beans and
kl(| turaipa, cabbages, <Scc. The rice is fowii ia Apnl, and gbthered

CHAP

* Tbunbf rg, ill. 'i34.

«(■•

'4^ rui^i:

S8ft

JAPAN.

in November : in which lad month the wheat is fown, and reaped in L
The barley alfo {lands the winter. From the feed of a kind of cabh"^*
lamp oil is expreffed, and feveral plants are cultivated for dyeino-' th^^
are alfo cotton flirubs and mulberry trees, which laft feed abimda '^
of filk worms. The varnifli and camphor trees, the vine, the cedar fh! 1
tea tree, and the bamboo reed, not oaly grow wild, but are planted f '^
numerous ufes. '

Rivers.] The rivers of Nipon have not been delineated with mu I
care. Among the few named are the Nogafa, and the Jedogawa wh' h
pafles by Ofaka, where it is crowned with feveral bridges of cedar ho
300 to 360 feet in length. The river Ojingawa is one of the larceft an^
moft dangerous in the country, though not fubjeft like the others to fwell
during rains. Fufigawa is alfo a large and rapid river, as is that call'd
Sakgawa. The largeil river feems to be the Jodo, or perhaps in the
German pronunciation Yodo, which flows S.W. from the centrallake ofl
Oitz : but our geography of the Japanefe empire is far from being com
plete. Among the moll important rivers Ktempfer names the Uiin (the!
Ojin of Thunberg), the Oomi reported by the Japanefe hillory tohavi
burft from the ground in one night, and the Aflta *.

Lakes.] One of the chief lakes fecms to he that of Oitz, whicliemit
two rivers, one towards Miaco, the rither towards Ofaka, and it isfaidu
be 50 Japanefe leagties in length, c.uli about an hour's journey on horfe.
back ; and the breadth is conf'vlcrable.

Mountains.] The principal Japanefe mountain is that of Fufi ci
vcred with fnow almofl throughout the ycaf. The Faconie mountaini
are in the fame quarter, furrounding -x finall lake of tlic fame name-)-,
Many of the mountains are overgrown with wood ; and others cultivatti'
as before explai. If d. There aro ieveral volcanoes, and in general tl,f
abound with evergreen trees and crylluUine fprings.

Voi.CANOis J Near Firando there is a volcanic iOand nor areotki
unknown in the furroum'liiig feas.j:. In the province of ligo there
a volcano which roniUnfiy emits flames ; and another, formerly a coi
mine, in the provmce of ''Tikulcr. The courfe and extent of the varij
rangeo of mountains h.ive not been indicated.

Near the lake of Oit/. is the delightful mountain of Jofan ; v.liicli
eflremed facred, and is (aid to prciVnt not lefs than yjoo temples i,

FoKExT;:.] In the hi^^h Hate of cultivation few fju'ils can aj)pe;ir, e;
ci pt thofe already mentioned as decorating the fides of moniit:iirs.

BoTASY.] I'he vegetable treafnns of Japan are !iumerons,andlm
been ably explored by Ka-mpfer and Thunberg : on acrnunl liowrver
the enormous population of the :onntry, and the ablolute n'TfUity
paying the utmoll attention to the introdudion of whatever nwytonti
butc to human fuftenaiice, it is not eafy tc^ alcertain how far fevoral of tl
efc'.d' Pt p'a; IS cultivated here are truly indigenous. There are niai
pointf of rclemblance between the floras of China and Japan, and tl
limilarity has proba; 'v been llrengtheiicd by a mutual intercimn^ otul
fid v( :-»tabK'S ; if iniii;J both countries have not rather derived foiw
their mod valuable plant', from Cochin-China, or the Philipniiie iilam
the fTJiiger, the foy-bran, black pepper, fugar, 'cotton mid inci^o. tin
perhaps natwef of the motv fontliern region', of Afi.i, are cuitivp.trd
with great fncci.fjand in vail ahumlance. The Indian laurel andtiiec
phor tree arc found in the high central parts of Japan, as is alioUie

' Tbunljrrg, i.

J Kitllll'ftT, i.

ifi.i.

lOti,

■;■ II). ill. ifii.
j In. ii. -itt.

wmix, frt

the bafis o

which the :

Belides the

ponica, is i

mulberry ai

valuable as

v;hite fibre's

urch, the c;

aveen Japan

ii.iiiidary to

i:Ii-, and j:da

pre of Alia

V iofe berrie

r. ■ii'ian of c

,..■;! t.vo othe

;.i? woodland

.'ra.vtli and

riv; ■ p.re ren(

tj:;.)!i a:id ma

ZOOJ.OGV."

found ill the v

tJCiiltivaUon,

wodl. Swire

jppear in the 1

Cliim-fe *, 1'

Wesiii the en

alingleSwedif

neither ufr tliei

erdrau'iiiir c:u'

vf^-etables, H(.

of tlieir eo-irs.

t.'iecats are fav

The wolf ap

llii'ie lull bt ing

^ MlNLKALOC

•''u;i'I ill aljtind
tlir Portugiiefe
!i'i' Dutch in f
.'jpaiimay in
i»'"dd ; but in
'■■'" plentiful,
M to -neiitiot)
siidwn.ught Ml
niiliJun is obtain
Fur, and the-
Tile linear ^ruid,'
J^rK^i' Qi tile Ni
■J'id 1 iniiroidery
"iJii^erniult
:'; pr^'ent, as a i
1 I.I' Japanefe co
• -uil 16 dearer.

Term

JAPAN.

389

rtrmix. from the bark of which exudes a gum refm that is fuppofed to be
the bafis of the exquifitely beautiful and inimitable black varnifli with
which the inlaid cabinets and other articles of Indian luxury are covered*
BeMfS the common fweet or China orange, anothe/ fpecies, the citros ja-
ponica, is found wild, and ahnoll peculiar to this country : two kinds of
mulberry are met with, both in an indigenous and cultivated ftate, the one
valuable as the favourite food of the filk worm, the other efteemed for the
v.hite fibres of its inner bark, which are manufaftured into paper. The
urch, the cyprefs,, and weeping willow, found in all the warm regions bc»
avcen Japan and the Mediterranean, here arrive at the extremity of their
oomdary to the eail ; the fame may be faid of the opium, poppy, white
i!r, and j'dap. The trumpet flower (bignonia catalpa) is common to this
pttof Alii, and Peru ; in which circumllance it refembles the vanilla,
V ioff biTries form an article of commerce, being largely ufed in the prc-
. -bn of chocolate. The tallow-tree, the plantam, the cocoa-nut tree,
jit.vo other palms, the chamiErops excelfa and cycas circinalis, adorn
• woodland traas, efpecially near the fhore, by tl.e variety of their
rj.vth and foliage, while the uncultivated fwamps by the fides of the
riv;" ;'.re rendered fubfervient to the ufes of the inhabitants by the pro.
la;;.)ii a:id magnitude of the bamboos with which they are covered.

Zooi.oGV.] It is not a little remarkable that neither flieep nor goats are
found ill t!ie whole empire of Japan ; the latter being deemed mifchievous
tociiltivii'-ion, while the abundance of cotton recompinces the want of
woiil. Swi'.ie are nlfo deemed pernicious to agriculture ; and only a few
appear in xh' ncighliuiirhood of Nagafaki, probably ifitrodiiced by the
Chincfe *. Then- are ill general but fiw quadrupeds; the number of
lijrfi'sin the empire being computed by Thuiiberg as only equal to thofe of
almgle Swedilh town. Still fewer cattle are feen ; and the Japanefe
neither ufe their flelh nor tlicir milk, but employ them only in ploughing
erdrawiug ctuts. Tlie food coniills almoin entirely of tiih and fowl, witli
vegetables. Hens and common ducks are domelUcuted, chiefly on account
of their egg -i. A fevvdigs are kept from motives of fuperllitiun ; and
the cats ;ire favourites (^f the ladies.

The woU appears in the northern pi\)vinces, and foxes in other parts :
iLilc lall being univerfally deu lied, .md ei)nl"dercd as demons incarnat*'.

MiNTitALOGY.] ♦' That the precious metals gold and fiiver are to bff
foiuii! ill abund.mce in the empire ol Japan has bien well known, both to
1 tk Portiigiiefe, who formerly '-xported whole {h.\) loads of them, and to
I till' Dutch in toruKT times. Gold is found in ieveial p.u;?, andperlia[i3
IrMiimav in this refpecl contell the palm with the riciioll co;intr\ in the
wiirld: but in order that tiiis metal ui.'v not lole iu value, b> becoming
j'.oi) plentiful, i'' is prohibi'ed to di^ nt. re thuii a certain ll.Ued quantity ;
r.ot to 'neiitioii tlut uo Met;dlic mine, ot anv kind whatever, can be oj)ened
and writught without .iie i-niperor's expr^ls permiihon. When this per-
miliiun is obtained two-' h^rds of the prodr.cc are tlij portion ot the em-
peror, and lliL* propriett^r c-^f the land n eeives oiietbird for the ex|iencea',
jTiie tine!t gold, tugetlier with the richell gohl mines, are loii;.d on the
llari(fil uf tlie Nipon illaiids near Sado. It is ufed for tue ihinf, ^^ilding,
lanil (innroidery ; but it is iiol Cdrried out of the eouiiT),

"Silver mull forie.e-ly bavc Levi* found in much greater ulnty than

ht preleiit, as a large quantity of it was then exported fi\'iii this* country.

ii»' Jupanele coinlder il as bi-ivg mor^ rare than gold, aiiboiiph the laiier

reial iii dearer. It is laid to be found in the province uf 13ingo ; and in

^'ifa

^Jl '

i •• '

• 'lliuiibn'^, iv, 95,

Cc 5

the

590

JAPAN.

the moro northerly parts towards Kattami, very rich filver mines are to Ir
met with. Indepcsdc-ntly of thefc places the two iflands which are calli-d
the gold and filver ifles, {Ginjima, K'tnfmat) are faid to contain a preat
qiKintity of both of thefe precious metals. Silver is ufed for cominir
and for plating.

" Copper is quite common in every part of the empire, and is richly
JmpregiKUed with gold, conftituiiiig the main lource of the wealth of
many provinces. It was not only formerly exported in amazing quantities
but ftiil continues to be exported both by the Dutch and Chinefe mer!
chants. The fineft and molt malleable is dug in Suruga, AtfinTO
Kyno, Kuni. The laft fort is efteemed to be the mort malleable of
any ; whtlil that from Suruga contains the greateft quantity of gold. Qf
this metal are made fmall pieces of money for change ; it is ufed like.
^ ife for plating and for making utenfils, fuch as pots, kettl<>8, &c. .

" Iron feeins to be fcarcer than any other metal in this country. This
they arc neither fond of importing, nor yet of exporting it for fale.
Of it they manufafture fcymitars, arms, fciflars, knives, and various
other impfeTsionts of which they (land in need.

** Brim!^.one is found in great abundance in Japan. Pit -coal is hkewife
to be met with in the northern provinces *."

Here are fevLTal warm medical wafers, which the inhabitants ufeforva.
rious difeafcs ; particularly thofe of Obamma, and thofe in the mountain
of Omfen. The natural curiofities of Japan have been httle invelligated,
as Europeann hav;- feldom vifitcd the interior of the country.

IsLKs.] There are many fmall ifles dependent on Japan, particularlv
in the S. and E ; among which is Fatlifo, the place of exile for tli?
grandees. Tlus and the other iniall ifles are fcarcely known except by
name.

THE BIRMAN EMPIRE.

COMPniSJXG WE KINGDOMS OF AFA AWD PEGU.

CHAPTER I.

HISTOniCAL OEOGRAPHV.

J\^ame. — Extent.—^ Bowu/nries. — Oriental Inhabitants. — Progrtjfi-ve GtO'

graphy. — Modern Hilary.

^ _ Ty EI'ORE the appearance of a recent inttrofting publin-
Wame.J ^j , ^11 ^^ fcarcely any thing was known concernin|r this

w empire ( and geogra[)her8 were ooiUlrained to detail the old accoiuits,
whicli nsv little fatisfaitory. The Birman empire derives its name from
tile B.r'nanii, who have been long known as a warlike nation in the region
formerly ilyleJ Inoia bkyond TIIE Ganges; the capital city of their
kingdom being Ava, or Awa, Pegu is by the natives ftyled Bagoo} ;
beiii^ the cuiiiitry litiiatcd to the fouth of the formcr,andjullly inferred
tu have been the Golden Cherfoncfe of th« aucjeDts,

• TluMibciu, i», 102.

t b^ uM.il s Aciuuiit uf the DtubftlTi to Art.

♦ Ih. ;. 6. ivo. cilit

ExTiNl

BIRMAN EMPIRE.

39«

Extent and ftouxoAniEs.] It is difficult to afcertain with prccifion
the boundaries of the Birinan empire. Mr. Symes informs us that ♦* it
appears to incUide the fpace between tho 9th and 26th degree of north
latitude, and between the 92d and 107th degrees of longitude eail of
Greenwich ; about 105 geographical miles in length and 6co in
breadth : thefe are the alcertainable limits, taken from the Birman ac-
counts. It Hiould however be remarbfed that the breadth often varies,
and is in many places very inconfiderable on what is called the Eallern
Pciiinfula *."

The geography of what is called India beyond the Ganges, a vague
name for the wide and various regions between Hindooftj;n and China, is
jlill defedive. To the north the Birir.an empire i» divided by mountains
from Afam, a country little vifited or known ; and farther to the eaft it
borders on Tibet and China. On the weil a range of mountains and the
little river Naaf divide the Birman pofll-flions from the Britifli dominions
in Bengal ; and the limit is continued by the lea. But the louthern and
eallern boundaries ftill remain obfcure. Ainidft this uncertainty it mull
{iiffice to obferve that the Birman empire conititutes the fifth grand native
power in Afia fince Hindoftan and Perfia have been divided, and may pro-
bably extend its authority over I^aos and Cambodia, while it remains divided
by deferts and ranges of lofty mountains from the united kingdoms of
Chochin-China and Tunquin.

OkiginAi. Poi'L'LATiox.] Tlio Original population of this region has
been little illullrated. The alphabet, literature, and religion, are derived
from thofc of the Hindoos; but the language, the grand criterion of na-
tional origins, has not been regularly collated with thofe of the adjacent
coimtries f .

Progukssive geocraphy]. Although this country appears to have
been k;io\vn to the ancients, conilituting the utmolt boiuidary of their
knowledge in this quarter of the globe :j:, yet the firft precife ideas con-
cerning this part of the globe were derived from the difcov^-ries of
the Portiigiiefo, but the geography remains fo impcrfe<!l that even
D'Anville has erred in the dehneation ; and Mr. Syme's work leaves
room for many illuH rations and improvements when future travellers
ibll inveftigate v.ith care the ctumtries beyond the Gang^-s §.

HisToitY.] The hillory of the Birman empire is d*'. ailed at fome
length in t'lie introductory part of the recent publication ; and as it
difplays the origin of a new and great Afiatic power it may be intercft-
ing to prefcnt an abftraCt. From tlie Portnguefe accounts it appears
tliat the Birmans, a brave and warlike race formcily fubjpfl to the
king of Pegu, became afterwards mailers of Ava, and caufed a revolu-
tion in the former country about the middle of the fixteenth century,
when they took Martaban. The Portuguefe continued to influence
thefe countries till they were expelled by the Duteh, who obtained fet-
tlemeiits in various parts of the Birman territory ; while the Englilh had
factories at Siriam, and even at Ava.

Tlie Birmans continued to exercife their fupremacy over Pegu till
about the year 1740, when a civil war arofe, during wliich the Britirti
fadory at Sirian was deftroycd in 1 744. By forae European »id8 the

; if *|l

^'1
4. .1!

• Symes's Account of the Fmhufl^ to Ava, ii. 4 U.

t Si-e Tol. vi. of tlie Afmtic llff«urt'li#s,

^(■engraph ties Crcis Analyf. 1 39.

§ 1 lie I'lcnili inteiTourfe with Si»m , towarJt the end of the frveiiteenih century, ooea*
fi Mill many drfcripiioMS of that kkii^ilom i l)Ut the aocounis of Avi» an<l IVj-u are rare,
'Ikn \i uii(! ot' 'l'uac|tun auU Laos, traiifluu-d from the haliao uf Mmini, PuU 1*6 1 , 4to.

C c 4. Pcgu^t

-< .:TU

39*

BIRMAN EMPIRE.

Pea;viefein 1750 and 1751, gained fcverr- vi£1:oncs over the Birmans •
and in 1752 Ava was befieged and taken; tue laft of a long line ol'
Birman kings being reduced to captivity j but two of his foiis efcaa^d
to Siam.

When Binga Delia, king of Pegu, had completed the conqueft of Ava
he returned to his own country, leaving his brother Apporaza to Govern
the late capital of the Birman king. All wore the afpeti of trancuiil fub.
miiTion, when there fuddenly arofe one of thofe men who are deftined bv
means almoll invifible, to break the ftrongeft rod of power, and to change
the fate of empires. Alompra, a Birman of low extraftion, was the chief
of a fmall village, and was continued in ttiis pt'tty office by the viftors
With one hundred devoted followers he attacked a band of fifty Peguefe'
whom he put to the fvvord ; and afterwards defeated a fmall force fent
againft him ; and about tlie autumn of 1753 took poffeffion of Ava
while the Pcguefe government feems te have been lofl by mere infatu-
ation. After repeated defeats, Binga Delia himfelf advanced agaiiilt
Alompra, and the war was condu(fled by fleets on the great river Irrawady
as well as by land, that of the Peguefe being utterly defeated in clofe
combat by that of the Birmaus. Alompra,' proceeding in his conquelh
founded the town now well known by the name of Rangoon, wliich fijr.
jiifies " vi£toi-y atcliievod ;" and ibon after chaftifcd the people of CuiTay
who had rcvc/lled from the Birman authority. In 1756 he blockaded
Sirian, which yielded to his arms ; and after having deprived the capital
of any foroivni aid by water, he advanced againil the city of Pegu, lituaied
on an extenlive plain, and then lurrounded with no mean furtificatioiis
while the (tupendous pagoda of Shomadoo fervcd as a citadel. Tliis
capital was inveiled in J,.-iuary 17^7, and in about three months became
a prey to the Birmans. Alompra then proceeded to fubdue the coiinti:. -,
to the eaftward as far as the three pagodas, the ancient bmiudary betuLtii
Pegu and Siani. Tavoy has been finee added to the Birman poiicfiions
in this quarter.

Alompra next determined to chailife the Siamefe, for the cncoura<Tc.
mcRt they hud given to his rebeUious fubjefts, and ordered a fleet to lail
to Mcrglii, a fca-port belonging to the Siamefe, which was ealily taktii,
and was followed by the conquell of Tanaferim, a large and populo^ij
city.

Tlie vi(f\or next advanced againft the capital of Siam ; but, two days
after the liege hid commenced, Alompra was feized with a deadly difcale,
which faved the Siamefe from dellruftion. He died within two days march
of Martaban, about the 15th May 1760, regretted by his people, wlio
at once venerated him as their deliverer, and as a great and vidoriDiis
monarcli. This founder of the Birman empire had not completed his
fiftieth year : hir, pcrfon, ilrongand well proportioned, exceeded the mid.
d!e fize ; and though his features were coarfe, his complexion dark, and
his countenance faturnine, there was a dignity in his deportment tiiat
became hit? h\'j;h ft.'tion, and which, like that of Oliver Cromwell, feems
to fpring frcnn confoious power.

He was fuccccdi'd by his fon Namdogoe, who fuppreftVd fevcra! Mm-
rcftions, and died in 1764, leaving an infant fon, Momien, wlioi'e imdc
Shemhuen, ftcond fon of the great Alompra, alfumed the regency, and
afterwards th.e diadem. .

Shembuen. to divert the national attention, as ufual with ufurper,
declared war againlt Siam ; and in 1760 two armies entered that cov.ntry
froir the N. and S., and, be*iig united, defeated the Siamefe about fcvc'i
liayfl journey from their capital. The Siamefe king privately witlitlre^'-,

aficr

BIRMAN EMPIRE.

593

• the Birmans •,

a long line ol'

lis fous efcapcd

;onqueft of Ava,
poraza to govern
; of tranquil fulj.
I are dellincd, by
er, and to change
ion, was the chief
:e by the viftors.
. of fifty Peguefe,
I fmall force fent
lolfefiion of Ava,
: by mere infatu-
advanced againll
;at river Irrawady,
y defeated in clofe
2; in his conquelU,
ngoon, which fig.
; people of CalTay,
756 he blockaded
leprivcd tlui capital
y of Pegu, litusled
mean forufications,
IS a citadel. This
ree months became
lubduc the couutr!' i
boundary het'.iLiii
Birman poiicllioi'.s

■or the cncouraj;!'-
do red a fleet to lail
1 was eafily takti!,
large and populo^is j

m ; but, two days
ith a deadly difcaic,
bin two days marcli
^y his people, wlio
k-at and vitlorious
not completed his
exceeded the niid-
hiplexion dark, and
Is deportment lliat
Ir Cromwell, ftcms

j-enVd feveral iiifur-

|>mien, whole imtlc

the regency, aiid |

Kial with ufurper,

litered that covaitry

tiamcfc abo\\t ff-vw

Lrivatciy withcirf^''.

iftei* a blockade 6f two months, and the city capitulated ; a Siamefe go-
vernor being appointed, who fwore allegiance to the Birman fovereignty,
and engaged tr) pay an annual tribute. '

The Chinefe, apprehenfive of the progrefs of thcfe conquefts, advanced
an army from the province of Yunan, but were completely defoated by
the Birmans. Policy fpared the captives, who were invited to marry
Birman wives, the Hindoo prejudices being here unknown. Shembuen
rebuilt Ava Haung, or ancient Ava, the metropolis of the empire, which
had fallen to ruin during the late commotions. The Siamefe, though
vanquiflied, remained unfubdued ; and there is an inveterate enmity be-
twixt the nationr,, which will prevent either fervitude or aUiancp *. A
Siamefe prince aiTumed the monarchy, and in 1771 defeated the Birmans.
Skmbuen afterwards turned his arms to the welt, and forced the raja of
Cachar to pay homage to his power. He died at Ava in 1776, and vfa%
fiiccceded by his fon Chonguza, whofe tyrannical condudl occafioned a
confpiracy, at the head of which was Shembuen Minderagee, the prefent
monarch, younger brother of the deceafed Shembuen. Chenguza was
ilainin 1782.

The fouthern conquefts of the Birmans hnd already extended as far
tsMerghi, and the northern provinces forn^ belonging to Siamhad
been reduced to fubjetlion and tribute. Mi agce determined to paft
the mountains of Anoupec, and fubdue Arracan, the raja or prince be-
in.Tof a fu})ine cliarader, and his fubjedts unwarlike, though they had
never been r^-duced to pay homage to any foreign power. This conquell
was commenced in 17S3, and was fpecdily effetlcd.

After this conquelt the Birman arms were again turned againll Siam,

and in 178J a fleet was fent to fubdue the ille of Junkfeylon, which

carries on a confiderable trade in ivory and tin, and is the only remaining

mart of Siamefe trade on this coall. Meeting with a repulfe, the Bir-

man monarch left his capital at the head of 30,000, men, with a train of

20 ti-ld pieces ; but was defeated by tlie king of iSiam, who in his turn

Med in an invafion of the viceroyalty of Martaban, which comprehenda

Tavov, Merghi, and all the Birman poffeflions to the fouth. In 1793

a treaty was ratified between the Birmans and Siamefe, by which the

htter ceded the we Item maritime towns as far S. as Merghi inclufive.

But, with this exception, and that of fome northern provinces, the

Siamefe monarchy retains a confiderable portion of its ancient fame.

Hence it appears that the Birman empire can fcarcely be computed to

extend beyond the loid degree of longitude, and tliat only in the part

to the north of Siam.

CHAPTER II.

P0LIT1C.\L GEOOIlArilY.

Riit^ion. — Laws. — Government. — Population. — Jtrmy. -— Navy* —
Revenues. — Political Importattce»

j^ T T^^IE Birmans follow the wbrfliip of Hisdoftan, not

' ' *-' jL aa votaries of Brahma, but as difciplos of Boodh,

I which latter is admitted by Hindoos of all defcriptions to be the ninth

[Avatar, or defcent of the deity in his capacity of preferverf. The

* Sjmct, i. 171. t Ibid, ii. 313.

■> i

■|,v

Birmani

<4..>A ■' f^t^

^-y

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

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Photogmphic

Sciences
Carporation

33 WIST MAIN STINT

VMUTII.N.V. MSM

(7l*)l73-4»03

I/..

BIRMAN EMPIRE.

Birmans believe in the tranfmigration of fouls ; after which the radicallr
bad will be condemned to lading punifhment, while the good fhall eniov
eternal happinefs in the mount Meru. They elleem mercy to be the
chief attribute of the Divinity.

Laws.] The laws of the Birmans are infeparable from their re-
ligion. The facred verfes or forgeries of Menu are illuitrated by nu.
merous commentaries of the Munis, or old philofophers, and conlH.
tute the Dherma Saftre, or body of laws. Both the religion and laws
proceeded originally from Ceylon, and parted through Aracan to
Mianuu " The Birman fyftem of jurifprudence is replete with found
morality^ and is dillitrguiflied ahqve any other Hindoo commentary for
perfpicuity and good fenfe ; it provides fpecifically for almoft every
Jpeciei of crime that can be committed, and adds a copious chapter of
precedents and decilions, to guide the inexperienced in cafes where there
is doubt aad difficulty. Trial by ordeal and imprecation are the only
abfurd paflages in the book ; but on the fubjeft of women it is to an
European offeniively indecent ; like the immortal Menu, it telly the
prince and the magiilrate their duty> in language auitere, manly, and
energetic."

Government.] Though the form of govemmfnt is dofpotic, yet
the king confults a council of ancient nobles. There are no here-
ditary dignities nor employments ; but all honours and offices, on
the demile of the poflefn>r, revert to the crown. The tj'alce, or
chain, is the badge of nobility, the number of llrings or divilions dc
noting the rank of the perfon, being three, fix, nine, ©r twelve, whiL'
the king alone wears twenty-four. Rank is alfo denoted by thy form
and materials of various articles in common ufe.

Population.] Colonel Symcs ftates the population of the Biriran
dominions at 17,000,009, confeiFedly, however, the refult of a very vague
cftimate. *"

Army and navy.] Every man in the empire is liable to military
fervice, but the regular army is very inconfiderable. During wr
the viceroy* raife one recruit from every two, three, or four houfcf,
which otherwife pay a fine of about 40I. * llcrling. The family of the
foldier is detained as hoilages ; and in cafe of cowardice or defertiun
fuffer death, a truly tyrannic mode of fecuring allegiance. Tlio infiintrv
are not regularly clothed, but are armed with muHcets hiuI fcibies;
while the cavalry carry fpcars about feven or eight feet in length. The
royal magazines are faid to contain about 20,000 miferablc Hnlncks,
But the war boats form the chief military cilablifhmeiit, coniiltiag of
about coo, formed out of the folid trunk of the teak tree, the Icngdi
being from 80 to 100 feet, but the br'adth feldom exceeding cij;!.;.
They carry from 50 to 60 rowers, ti.e prow being folid, wiih a
flat furface, on which a piece of ordnance is mounted. Each mm
is provided with a fword and lance, and there arc ^o foldiera atxA

th muHcets. The attack is impetuous, and chieny conduded by
ing ; but the veffeis being low in the water, the greatett dan*

Jrer is that of being run down by a larger boat flriking the bruad
ide. Their naval anions thus recal to remembrance thole of claflicil
antiquity. I

Rbvbnuii.] The revenue ariies from one*tenth of all produce« vA\
of foreign goods imported ; but the amount is uncertain. Vet ac granti
ait commonly made in land or offices, and no money leaves the (oyil

WJl

grappli

a Sjmei, u. 3)3,

* '

treifurj

BIRMAN EMPIRE.

treafury except in cafes of great emergency, it is fuppofed that the mo*
narch poffefles immenfe treafures.

Political importance and relations.] The political iihportance
and relations of the Birnum empire may confiderably influence the com-
merce of the ealt^, and may be confidered as a barrier againft the ambi-
tion of the Chinefe, who might perhaps be induced to extend their pof-
feiTions in this quarter, and might, in co-operation with the native
princes, endanger our pofleiTions in Hindoftan. Such is however the
I'uperiority of European artrs, tliat this event is little to be apprehended.
But if the Birmans, as is not improbable, were to extend their authority
over the whole of that part called India beyond the Ganges, they mi^ht*
as being a mod brave and determined nation, prove dangerous neigh-
bours to oi:r poffcflions in Bengal, efpecially if fo far advanced in policy
as to co-operate with the weftem prfnces of Hindoftan. The temporary
dif^ruils tliercfore between the Britilh and Chinefe ought not to induce
us to furget tlie greati-r danger from the Birmans, whole empire it cannot
be our intereft to enlarge, though policy will prevent our offering anji
open obltruAion.

CHAPTER III.

CIVIL OEOGRAPHY.

Manners. — Language, -—Literature, — Cities.'— E^ces.-^MaaufaSuret.

— - Commerce,

.1 ^ „^. „ -, T^HE general difpofition of the Binnant

Manners and customs.] j^ j, ^^^^^^^^ conVratted with that of the

Hindoos, from whom they are feparatra only by a narrow range of
inountainK, in many places admitting of an eafy intercourle *. Not-
withlbnding the fmall extent of this barrier, the phyfical difference
between the nations could fcarcely be greater, had. they been lltuated
at the oppoflte extremities of the globe. The Birmans are a lively in-
qiiifitive race, adive, irafcible, and impatient \s the unworthy paffion of
jdoufy, which prompts niofl nations of the eaft to immure their women
withitk the walls of an iiaram, and furround them with guards* feemt
fcarcely to have any influence over the minds of this extraordinary
and more liberal people. Birman wives and daughters are not con-
cealed from the light of men, and are fufTered to have as free intAn^
courfc with each other as the rules of European fociety admit ; but in
oilier refpcdts women have ju(l reafon to complain of their treatment |
tliey ure confidered as not belonging to the fame fcale of the nation at
men, and even the law ftamps a degrading diftind^ion between the fexes |
the evidence uf a woman being not received as of equal weight with that
of a man.

The women, though free, are grfnendly too much occupied in the
hbours of the loom to admit of infidelity, the offspring of idlenefs.
In vt^ar the men difplay the ferocity of favages, while in peace they caa
boall a confidcrable degree of genlienefs and civilisation. The Birmat
I year comprifes twelve months of ao or 90 dars alternately, a month
\iii\^% interpofed every third year. The fubdivifion of the month is pe»
|(uli»r, Mtbey number thcdayi not only from tlw new moon, but from

» SyiMi,U.8U.

S96

BIRMAN EMPIRE.

the full, which laft is called the decreafing moon. . They are fond
of poetry and mufic, and among their inilruments is the heem re>
fembling the ancient pipe of Pan, formed of feveral reeds neatly joined
together, and founded by a common mouth-piece, fo as to produce a
plaintive melody.

Language and literatuiie.] The alphabet reprefents 33 fimplc
founds, and is written from left to right like the European. The Birmaa
books are more neatly executed than thofe of the Hindoos, and in every
kioulf or monaftery, there is a library or repofitory of books. Colonel
Symes was furprifed at the number contained in the royal library, ip
which the large,chefts amounted to about 100 *. The books were re<Tu.
larly clafTed, and the contents of each cheil were written in gold Iett*eis
on the lid.

Theltudy of the laws and natior:! religion muft of courfe conftitute
a confiderable branch of education among the great : that of the poor
feems to be utterly neglected.

Cities.] Ava, the ancient capital, has been permitted to fink into
ruin fmce the recent foundation of Ummerapoora, on the eailern fide of
a great river which flows into the Irraw^dy. The new capital, with
its fpires, turrets, and lofty piafath, or obeliflc, denoting the royal
prefcnce, feems to rife, like Venice, from the waters, being placed be.
twecna lake on the S.E. and the large river, with numerous iiles on the
N. W. The lake is called Tounzemahn, from a village on tlie oppoiite
fide, ornamented with tall groves of mango, palmyra, and cocoa trees.
The number and Angularity of the boats that were muortd in the lake,
and the furrounding amphitheatre of lofty hills, confpired to render the
fcene grand and interefting. The fort is an exa6l fquare, with public
granaries and ftore rooms ; and there is a gilded temple at each corner,
nearly 100 feet in height, but far inferior to others in the vicit ity of
the capital. In the centre of this fort Hands the royal palace, with
a wide court in front, beyond which is the Lotoo, or hall of council,
fuppotted by 77 pillars, difpofed in eleven rows. The extent and po.
piUation of this city have not been accurately ilated, but are probably
inconfiderable.

Ava, formerly the capital, is alfo ftyled Aungwa, but is in a (late of
ruin, '* The walls are now mouldering into decay, ivy clings to the
fides, and buflies, fuifered to grow at the bottom, undermine the foun.
dation, and have already cauled large chafms in the different facet
of the fort. The materials of the houfes, confifting chiefly of wood,
had, on the firll order for removing, been tranlported into the new city I
of Ummerapoora ; but the ground, unlefa where it is covered with 1
buihes or rank grafs, ftill retains traces of former buildings and
ftreets. The liiies of the royal palace, of the Lotoo or grand council
hall, the apartments of the women, and the fpot on which the piafath uri
imperial fpire had Hood, were pointed out to us by our guide. Cluirps
of bamboos, a few plantain trees, and tall thonis, occupy the greater
part of the area of this lately flourifliing capital. We obferved two
dwelling 'houfes of brick and mortar, the roofs of which had falhn
in ; theTe, our guides faid, had belonged to Colars, or foreigneis. On I
entering one, we found it inhabited only by bats, which flew in I
our faces, whiUl our fenfe of fmelling was ofiendcd by their iiltb, audi
by the noifome mildew that hung upon the walls. Numerous tcniph.sj
on which the Birmans never lay facrilegious hands, were dilapidating hA

• Sjrmfti ly. Ml ^

\im

BIRMAN EMPIRE.

391

time. It '' impoITible to draw a more ftriking pi£lure of defolation and

ruin*'

Pegu, formerly the capital of a kingdom, is alfo in ruins, having been
razed by Alompra, in 1757, the praws or temples being fpared ; and
of thefe the vail pyramid of Shomadoo has alone been reverenced and
kept in repair. The prefent Birman monarch has endeavoured* to con-
ciliate the Taliens, or native Peguefe, by permitting them to rebuild
their ancient city, within the fcite of which a new town has accordingly
been reared. The city occupies about half its former extent, and ia
the refidence of the Maywoon, or governor of Pegu. It is decorated
with that extraordinary edifice the Shomadoo, feated on a double terrace,
one fide of the lower being 1,391 feet, of the upper 684. The build-
ing is compofed of brick and ir.ortar, o6lagonal at the bate, and fpiral at
the top, without any cavity or aperture. At the fummitts a Tee, or
facred umbrella, of open iron work gilt, 56 feet in circumference ; the
height of the whole being 361 feet, and above the inner terrace 331 feet.
Tradition bears that it was founded about ^00 years before Clinft. A
more complete idea of this very lingular edifice may be obtained from
the print publifhed by Colonel Symes, than any verbal defcription can
convey.

One of the chief ports of the Birman empire is Rangoon, which,
though like the capital, of recent foundation, is fuppofed to contain
30,000 fouls. Towards the mouth of the river Pegu ftands Sirian»
formerly one of the chief ports of that kingdom, and of confider>
able commerce when in polTefilon of the Portugijefe. It was par-
ticularly celebrated for the export of rubies and other precioils
ftones, which feem however to be chiefly found in the northern moun-
tains.

Martaban was another fea port of confiderable eminence, till the
harbour was impeded by order of the Birman emperor. Of Tavoy
and Mcrghi little is known ; but Tanaferim maintains the dignity of
a citv.

The grand river of Irrawady is bordered with numerous towns and
villages. Perfain, or Baflien, ftands on its weftern branch. At a
confiderable diftance to the north is Prome, celebrated as the fcene of
many long fieges and bloody confliAs. The number of inhabitants ex-
ceeds that of Rangoon. Pagahm is alfo a confilerable place. Nor
miift Aracan, a recent acquifition, be forgotten, which is divided by feve-
ral canals derived from a river of the fame name. •

Towards the Chinefe frontier are Quangtong, correfponding in name
with the diftant province called Canton by Europeans ; Bamoo ; and, in
the county uf CafTay, Munnipora. Monchaboo is a confiderable town
to the north of the capital.

Edifices.] The moll remarkable edifice is the Shomadoo befort
dcfcribed. Tlie Kioums arc often of Angularly rich and fantaftic
architefture, as may be obferved in the delineation given by Colonel
Symes ; who has alio publifhed a view of the grand hall of audience,
perhaps as fplendid an edifice as can well be executed in wood. His
reception M the «• goldew feet," fuch is the term ufed for the im-
perial prefence, was alfo remarkably grand, the pomp in fome degree
torrefponding with that of the ancient Byzantine emperors.

Inland navigation'.] Nature has fo amply provided the means of

• Syiccs, ii, a;o,

iitland

39*

BIRMAN EMPIRE.

ialaad navigation, by the numerous mouths and ftreams of the grand
river Irrawady, that additional induftry fecms fupei-fluous.

Manufactures.] The Birmans excel in gilding, and feveral other
ornamental manufactures. Theeditices and barges are cunlhudedwith
lingular oriental taile and ekgance ; and at Chagain is a manufad^ure
of marble divinities, the Hiaterial being remarkably fine and ahnoit
tranfparent.

CaMMSKCi.] A confiderable trade is carried on between the capital
and Yunan, the neareft province of China, comlfting chiefly in cot-
ton, with amber, ivory, precious ftones, and betel nut ; the returns
being raw and wrought filks, velvets, gold leaf, preferves, paper
and fome utenfils of hard ware. Several thoufand boats are aiinnal.
ly employed in ^tranfporting rice from the lower provinces to fupply
IJmmerapoora and the northern diitrifls. Salt and gnapee, a kind
of fifti fauce ufed with rice, are alfo articles of internal commerce.
European broad cloth and hard ware, coarfe Bengal muflins, China
ware, and glafs, are imported by foreigners. The Birmans, like tlw
Chinefey have no coin : but filver in buUion, and lead, are current.

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.

Climate and Sea/otu, — Face of the Country. — Rivers. — Laics. — Mmtn.
tains, ^—Forejis. — Botany. — Zoology. — Mineralogy. ^^JJles.

Co MATS- AKn ^iKAsovs 1 1^^^ vigorous health of the natives attells
CLIMATE AND SEASONS.J J^ ^j^^ falubrity of the climate, the fea-

fons being regular, and the extremes of heat and cold Uttle known.

Face of the country.] The face of the country affords almoft
every variety, from the fwampy Delta of the Irrawady to pleafant
hills and dales, and confiderable ranges of mountains. " The foil of the
fouthern provinces of the Birman empire is remarkably fertile,, and pro-
duces at luxuriant crops of rice as are to be found in the fmeil parts of
Bengal. Farther northward the country becomes irregular and moun.
taioous ; but the plains and valleys, particularly near the river, are ex-
ceedingly fruitful ; they yield good wheat, and the various kinds of fmall
grain which grow in Hindoftan ; as likcwife legumes and mod of the
efculent vegetables of India. Sugar canes, tobacco of a fuperior quality,
indigo, cotton, and the different tropical fruits in perfection, are ail in.
digenous products of this favoured land *." Agricultuhe feems to be
purfued with confiderable avidity, but the mode lias not been particularly
lUuftrated.

Rivers.] The chief river of the Birman emjAre is the Irrawady,
which probably paffes by Moguang to Bamoo, and thence by Umme.
n^xMMra and Prome towards the fca, which it joins by many mouths,
after a comparative courfe of near 1,200 Britifh miles. The Keen Ducm
feems to rite in the mountains towards Afam, being of much inferior fize
where it joins the Irrawady.

The river Sitang is the next on the eaft, after paffing the fmall river
•f Pegii, but feems to be a kind of remote branch of the Irrawady.

The Tbaluan enters the fea near Martabani the !i:i)gth of its courfe

* SyniM, u. 979.

aceedi

BIRMAN EMPIRE.

399

grand

other
dwith
afture
almoin

capital
in cot-
returns
paper,
annnal-
fupply
a kind
nmerce.
, China
like tlw
snt.

— Mm-

yes attefts
the fea«

DWD.

ds almoft
> pleafant
foil of the
, and pro-
y. parts of
ind moun*
are ex-
Is of fmall
f ft of the
Lr quahty,
kre all in*
Ims to be
Vticularly

llrrawady,
ly Umme.
mouths,
een Ducra
[ferior fiu

■man river
Iwady.
■its courfie

cicecdi

exceeds that of the Irrdwady, though not being fed by fuch numerout
llieams it cannot equal it in fize. The ri/er of Siam, or Maygue, alfo
pervades a part of the iJirman territory. The geography of all thefe
rivers remains imperfeft.

Mountains.] It is probable that the higheft range of mountains is
on the frontiers of Tibet. The other ranges are delineated as paifing
>J, and S , but the names are not indicated, except thofe of Anoupec»
between Ava and Arracan, and a fmall range running E. and W., which
[applies the fources of the river of Pegu.

Forests. J The forefts arc large and numerous, many parts remaining
in a Hate of nature. They fupply almoft every defcription of timber that
is known in Hindoftan ; and, about four days journey to the N. of the
capital, firs grow in abundance. But the lorcT of the Birman foreft is
the teak tree, fuperior to the European oak, which is there unknowa ;
the teak flourifltes in many parts of the empire, to the N. of the capital
as well as to the S.

Botany.] All the countries that compofe the rich and extenfive ter-
ritory of India beyond the Ganges, including the Birman empire, and
the dominions of Pegu, Siam, Cambodia, Cochin-China, and Malacca,
bear fuch a fimilarity to each other in their vegetable produftions as far
as they have been invelligated, as renders it impoHlble to give a general
and feparate view of their re'^pe^ive floras without continual repetitions.
Ceilain diftricls alfo in farther India have been examined with coniider-
able attention, wliile others fimilarly fituated have remained alnofl:
nholly overlooked: it is only therefore from analogy (a highly pro-
bable one indeed) that we can conjefture the moft charaAerillic fpeciet
of their indigenous plant. The mountains of the interior, and in ge-
neral the whole northern frontier, are ilill totally unexplored, and the
deep forefts, infefted with tigers, tnuft ever continue, even in the more
accciTihle parts, to oppofe no trifling obftacles to the fpirit of fcientific
adventure.

It is in thofe parts of the torrid zone that abound with water, and
«here, from the influence of the moiifoons, the country is extenfively
flooded every year, that vegetation afTumes a vigour and fublimity wholly
inconceivable by the native of more temperate climates ; everlafting ver-
dure, grace, and majcfty of form, height and amplitude of growtli, are
the diiringuilhing attributes of their trees, compared with which the mo*
oarchsof our forefts fink into .'ey/etables of an inferior order: the fame
txuberance of nature is confpicuous in their ihrubs and herbaceous plants,
in their bloffoms and tlicir fruits, whofc vivid brilliancy of colour, fingu*
larity of fliape, aromatic fragrance, and exalted flavour, reduce to relative
inlignilicauce the puny produce of European fummers.

Here rifes in proud magnificence the white fandal tree, whofe fragrant

wood is in hig1> requcft through the whole eail for the grateful odour of

its fmoak. The teak tree (teftona theca) is at leaft equal even to Britifh

leak as a durable material f«Mr (hip building ; the true jet black ebony wood

iuhe produce of one of the indigenous trees of Cochin-China. The

fycumore fig, the Indian fig, and the banyan tree, itfelf a grove, by

Ithe breadth of their leaves and the luxuriance of their foliage, afford «

ImoU delicious (helter, impenetrable even by the meridian ardour of an

I Indian fun.

Of the plants that are ufed in medicine or the arts fome of the moll

[important are natives of Farther India : thv nature of this work does not

limit of fpecifying the whole, but thofe of molt confequence are the fol-

6 lowing.

400

BIRMAN EMPIRE.

lowing. The ginger and cardamom, two pleafant aromatics, are found
wild on the river fides, but are alfo cultivated in great abundance • tl
turmeric, whofe principal ufe in Europe is as a dyeing drug, is largelv
ufed by the natives of the coaft to tince and flavour their rice and m\J.

food:

rice and other

the leaves of the betel pepper, with the fruit of the black and lonir
pepper, are the moft favourite of their native fpices, to which may alfo
be added three or four kinds of capficum. The cinnamon laurel grows
in abundance on each fide of the Malayan peninfula, and fometimes as
it is faid, accompanied by the nutmeg. . The fugar cane, the bamboo
and the fpikenard, the three moft celebrated plants of the grafs tribe are
found throughout the whole country : the two former in rich fwamps
and the latter on dry hills. The fweet potatoe, mad apple and love*
applci gourds, melons, water melons, and a profufion of other efculent
plants, enrich this favoured country ; all thefe however require cultiva.
tion: but the plantain, the cocoa nut, and fago palm, furnifhed by tlie
free unftinted bounty of nature, contribute moft plentifully to fatisfy the
wants of the inhabitants. Of native fruits they poflefs a vaft variety and
an inexhauftible abundance. The vine grows wild in the foretts, but from
exceflive heat and want of cultivation its fruit is far inferior to that of
the fouth of Europe : to compenfate however for this deficiency, they
have the lufcious mango, the pine.apple, the fapindus edulis (the li-tfclii
of the Chinefe), the mangoftecn plum, the cuftard apple, the papaw fifr,
the orange, the lemon, and lime, and a multitude of other exquifue fruit;.,
whofe very names are fcarcely known in Europe,

Zoology. 3 The animals in general correfpond with thofe of Hin-
doftnn. Elephants principally abound in Pegu. The horfes are fmall,
but fpirited. A kind of wild fowl called the lien/a, and by the Hindoos
tbe braminy goofe, has been adopted as the fymbol of the empire, like
the Roman eagle.

Mineralogy.] The mineralogy of this region, the Golden Cherfonsfe
of the ancients, is opulent, and iome produdls rather fingular. While
Malacca, which has hitherto been fuppofed the Golden Clierfonefe,
fcarcely produces any mineral except tin, and is in truth a poor country,
•nly celebrated as an emporium of Portuguefe trade with China, tlie
rivers of Pegu, on the contrary, itill continue to devolve particles of I
gold : and their fands muft in ancient times have been yet more proHlie
of that precious metal. Nor is it improbable that the pradice of gilding j
the roots and fpires of temples and palaces may afcend to ancient times,
as we are told that the Shomadoo was built about 500 years before the
Chriftian era : in which cafe the fplendid appearance might naturally give
■rife to the claOical appellation of the country. In many regions gold is
found intermingled with filvcr ; and fix days' journey from liamoo (pro-
bably towards the north) there are mines of gold and filver at Badouem, I
near the /rontiers of China. By a fingular conjunftion, there are, ac-
cording to the fame authority, mines of gold, filver, rubies, and fapphires,!
at prelent open on a mountain called Wuoboloo-taun, near the river Keen
Duem.

There is alfo abundance of inferior minerals, as tin, iron, lead, anti.
mony, arfenic, and fulphilr ; and amber, a rare and fingular product, it I
t\ot only dug up in large quantities near the river Irrawady, but ituncom*
monly pure and pellucid.

The moft fingular produA of Pegu ia the ruby, a ftone next to the dia-
mond in value, and which is found in a mountain between Siriam and!
f e^Uj this fubllance being aloioft as peculiar as the diamond is to Hi^|

,. , boilan.1

ARACAN.

40X

joftan *' Rubies and fapphires are alfo found in the north-weftern part
of the empire ; but the moft valuable mines are in the viciaity of ths ca-
gjtal or rather about 30 Britifh miles to the north. - ■

• ' ! '

■ A.---A

ARACAN.

.:) .

't ,f

•!'■

■■'f '.l-v .:. .ii

THIS kingdom has been already mentioned in the preceding account
of the Birman empire. The materials concerning it are fcanty
and imperfeft, though the extent of coaft feems to invite commerce. The
air is pure, and contagious diforders are unknown. The plains are faid
to be extremely fertile ; and delicious vallies prefent numerous flocks of
cattle, but horfes are rare, and the land is laboured by buffaloes. The
rainy reafon, improperly called winter, begins in April and ends in
October. The other months are dry and afford abundance of vegetables,
fruits, and grain ; but wheat and rye are unknown f .
The capital gives a great idea of the kingdom, its extent being faid to
fill feveral leagues ; and oriental exaggeration adds, that the number of
inbabitants equals that of the moft populous European cities, while the
temples are computed at fix hundred. The palace of the monarch waa
ofdi(lingui(hed wealth, and the golden hall was fo flyled, becaufe it was
covered from top to bottom with that precious metal. A hundred
ingots of gold, each weighing forty pounds, were fufpended from the
canopy, which was alfo of maify gold. Such are the tales of the eaft»
but the judicious reader will think that I am copying Mendez de Pinto,
crfome other extravagant traveller, and will obferve that> when the Bir-
nans conquered this country, in 1785, the richeft booty was an idol of
I bfs.

The natives of Aracan are faid to be averfe to commerce, and to a

I aaritime life ; but the Mahometans export elephants to Hindoflan and

Perfia, whence they return linen, filks, and fpices. Aracan chiefly

Uoundi in wood, ivory, lead ; and, if we believe our author, likewife in

Ilia.

A large and flat forehead diftinguiflies the inhabitants of Aracan, but
I it the work of fafhion and caprice, by the application of a leaden plate in
Itarly infancy. Their noftrils are large, and their ears faid to be even
Inonllrous. Their drefs confiils in a cotton fhirt covering the arms, but
m 0. cafions of ceremony they wear long robes. Their nair is woven in
Itrefles, while that of the women is difpofed in floating buckles, with all
Itiie Ikill of an European coquette.
Their repafls are not of an inticing kind, confifting of rats, mice, fer-
iits, and other animals little known in European cookery. Fifh mufl be
pt a confiderable time before it can provoke their palate ; and their
bink is pure water, or the juice of the palm tree.

Virginity is not a refpected virtue, the indolence of the hufbands pre-

ling the temporary brides of the foreign feamen. The monarch, fhut

pin his palace, vegetates in infipid luxury with his queen and concubines.

rwelve girls are annuaHy expofed to the fun ; and the fine linen which

nbibes Uieir perfpiration is tent to die monarch, that from the odour he

* The Sinam gtmet, vulgarly Syrian, k slfo firom tUi couutry.

|t Turpin, u. a6«. ' - -i

! V

'H
may

402

ARACAN.

ipay judge of the fxireft. It it even faid that) as in fotne Countries in
Africa, the royal guard is compofed of armed concubines.

Medicine is only prad^ifed by the priefts called Raulins, who breathe
upon the fick, pronounce myfterious words, and oflFer facrifices.

The dead bodies of the great are committed to a funeral pile, but thofe
of the poor are thrown into the rivers, as our author afferts, though the
praAice be contradiftory to that of all other nations. He adds, however
that the bodies are fometimes expofed to the birds of prey, a well-known
cuftom of the Perfees. It is efteemed an aft of piety to haften the fatal
termination of a lingering difeafe.

Their temples are faid to refemble pyramids ; and they have domeftic
gods, whofe image they fometimes imprefs on their arm with heated
iron. There are procemons of idols, as in Hindoilan, when many voIun>
tary viftims are cruHied by the wheels of the car.

There are three orders of priefts ; and their chief, who refides in the
ifle of Munay, has great authority, the king, though defpotic, being un-
covered in his prefence, and yielding the precedence in ceremonies. All
the priefts live in perpetual celibacy, and the violation of this purity im-
plies inftant degradation. Some of thefe religious men live like hermits,
amidft rocks, dark foreits, and dcferts ; while others inhabit palaces at
the royal expence.

Among other fmall kingdoms in the vicinity of the Birman empire, I
may be mentioned Jangoma, or perhaps Yangoma, on the north of Siam.
The extent is faid to be various, at ftiort epochs, the revolutions being
frequent. This country, according to the Siamefe rep6rts, is governed
by priefts. The inhabitants are faid to be tall and well proportioned,]
their fole garment in this hot climate being a cindlure of linen. The]
women are famed in the eaft for their gallantry and beauty, in which laitl
quality they furpafs thofe of Pegu ; and voluptuous monarchs think their]
haram enriched aud adorned by a concubine from Jangoma. The com-
mon food is rice, and the country is alfo faid to abound in muik, pepper,]
(Ilk, gold, filver, copper, and gum-benjamin. But it is fufficient to men-
tion mis country, only known by fuch doubtful relations.

Between Aracan and our poffefiions in Bengal, is the fmall and moun.1
tainous country of Tibra, which is faid to be only remarkable for a ntinel
of gold. Secure in their mountains, the people are happy, becaufe they;
ar« unknown. , ,, ,. -.

.(■: •»

I « •,«.■!

. / . "!'■)

tort ^ "> 'ju ->>.,- »-,■'./

MALAYA, Ok MALACCA.

It*? fl* i-

Frogrejlve Geography. — Name and Extent. — Language. — ProJuSs.—Ci^
^Malacca. — General Remarks on the MalayL-^IJles of Andmam
Nicoiar.

1 1

THE peninfula appended to the Bivman territories on the fouth :
ftyled Malaya or Malacca.
Pi^XJRBSSiVE GEOGRAPHY.] This cherfonefe was certainly unknofl
to the ancients, and feems to have efcapedthe knowledge of Marco Fold
if this be not his Maletur, where he fays there was abundance of fpicej
and the natives had a proper and peculiar fpeech.

However this be, the Portuguefe are regarded as the firft difcoverersd

lO MaM

""t.-

MALAYA, OR MALACCA.

4P3

J^Jacca in 1509, to which they y/ere led by tlie vain ide^ of finding the
folden CherioneJj} of the ancients. In 1^,09 the PorLuguefe conquered
the peninfula.

Name.] The name is derived from the Malays, who are mollly Ma-
liometans, apd in fonae degree civilized ; but the inland parts feem to be
pofleffed by a more rude native race, little known amidll Ihe imperfec-
tion of materials concerning this country. The northern limits are not
(Iridtly defined ; but Malacca is about S\ or near 560 Britifh miles in
bgth, by about 150 miles of medial breadth, a territory fufficiently
ample for a powerful monarchy, had its native produdiions correfpondcd
wit^tfi extent.

Laxguaoe.] The Malayan language has been called the Italian of
the eall, from the melody of frequept vowels and liquids.
t The Arabic charader is made ufe of ; and an influx of words of that
language has followed the adoption of the Mahometan religion. They
write on paper, ufing ink of their own compofitioq, and pens made of the
twigs of a tree. The pureil Malay is Hill fuppofed to be fpoken in the
peninfula, and has no inflection of nouns or verbs. ^

Divisions.] Malacca is reprefentqd as divided into the kingdom of
Patani in the north, and that of Jolior or Jor occupying the fouthern ex»
tremity of the peninfula, the chief towns being Batufaber the capital^
Linga, Bintam, and Carimon.

Products.] The inland part of the Malayan peninfula feeme to re-
main full of extenfive aboriginal forefis ; nor do the j^ncient or inoderi|
maps indicate any towns or villages in thefe parts. Thp indolence of the
inhabitants has prevented the country from being explored, but it prp-
duces pepper^ and other fpices, with fome precious gums and woods.
The wild elephants fupply abundance of ivory ;• but the tin ; the only
mineral mentioned, may perhaps be the produce of Banka. ^ |];.h,

The city of Malacca, which feems to have been founded by Maho-
metans in the thirteenth century, was held by the Portuguefe till 16411
vhen it was feized by the Dutch. It was considered as fituated in the
fouthern kingdom of Johor ; and in the lail century was fuppofed to
contain 12,000 iahabitants, of which however only 3,000 dwelled w^tbjn
the walls. Not above 300 were native Portugui^fe, the others being a
mixed race of Mahometan Malays, accounted among the chief merchantf
of the eafl. The Portuguefe fettlement did not extend above five leagues
around ; yet became highly important from its advantageous pofition for
Indian and Chinefe commerce *.

The mean and difgraceful jealoufy of the Dutch concerning their ori*
ental poifeffions renders the recent accounts of this city imperte^.

In general the Malays are a well nuule people, though rather below the
middk iUture, ^eir limbs well fhaped, but fmall, and particularly flender
at the wrifls and ancles. Their complexion is tawny, their eyes )arge>
their nofeg feem rather flattened by art than nature ; and their hair is
very long, black, and (hining.

Befides the tyger and elephant, Malacca produces the civit cat de-
fcribed by Sonnerat, who alfo mentions that wild men are found in this
I peninfula, perhaps the noted Orang Outangs.

They are reftlefs, fond of navigation, war, plunder, emigrations, co.
Ionics, defperate enterprifes, adventures, and gallantry. They talk in-
ceffantly of their honour and their bravery, whillt they are univerfally
confidered by thofe with whom they have intercourfe as the moft trca-

* Mandelflo, i. Col. 937*

Dda

cberovi

404

MALAYA, OR MALACCA.

cherous ferocjious people on the face of the gbbe : and- yet, they fpeak
the fofteft language of Afia.

This ferocity is fo well known to the Europeans companies who have
fettlements in the Indies, that they have univerfally agreed in prohibiting
the captains of their (hips, who may put into the Malay iflands,(rom taking
on board any feamen of that nation, except in the greateil diftrefs, and
then on no account to exceed two or three.

It is nothing uncommon for a handful of thefe favages fuddenly to
embark, attack a veflel by furprize, poinard in hand, maifacre the people,
and make themfelves mafters of her. Malay barks, with 25 or 30 men
have been known to board European (hips of 50 or 40 guns, in order to
take poffellion of them, and murder with their poinards great part of the
crew. The Malay hiftory is full of fuch enterprifes, which mark the
de(perate ferocity of thefe barbarians.

Oppofite to the coaft of Malacca, though at a confiderable diftance,
are the iflands of Andaman and of Nicobar. The Great Andaman is
about 140 Britiih miles in length, but not more than zo in the greateil
breadth, indented by deep bays affording excellent harbours, and inter-
fe£led by vaft inlets and creeks, one of which, navigable for fmall
veiTelsj'pafles quite through the ifle*. The foil is chiefly black mould,
the clins of a white arenaceous ftone; The extenfive forefts afford
fome precious trees, as ebony, and the Nicobar bread fruit. The
only quadrupeds feem to be v«^d hogs, monkeys, and rats. The fea
fupplies numerous fi(h, and excellent oyfters. The people of the
Andamans are as little civilized as any in the world, and are pic
bably cannibals. They have woolly heads, and periFedly referable
negroes. Their charadler is truly brutal, infidious, and ferocious, and
their canoes of the rudeft kind. On Barren ifle, about 15 leagues
to the eaft of the Andamans, is a violent volcano which emits fliowert
of red hot (tones : and the whole ifland has a fineular and vokanic
^pearance. A Britifli fettlement has been recenuy formed on the
Greater Andaman, and fome convifls font thither from Bengal. The
natives, about 4000, have already profited by the example of Englilh
induftry.

The Nicobars are three ; the largeft being about five leagues in cir.
cumfcrence f . They produce cocoa and areca trees, with yams and
fweet potatoes ; and the eatable birds' nefts, fe highly efteemed in
China, abound here as well as in the Andamans. The people are of
a copper colour, with fmall oblique eyes and other Tatar features.
In their drefs a fmall ilripe of cloth hangs down behind ; and hence
the ignorant tales of feamen which led even Linnaeus to infer that fome
kind of men had tails. The only quadrupeds are fwine and dogs. The j
traffic is in coco» nuts, of which one hundred are given for a yard of j

blue cloth. " 'i*-' t'<jn'<«>' « iiwji'}i;p«fi» ii'iii-i ..MJ^jiw, ijrs runv
• Af. Rcr. iv. 389. . t Ibid. iii. 14§. .

'Ai .

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SIAM.

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:.^,^.. >,..(• ^.».;■.,wi. -5 SIAM. .-> r'";'i.f •• ■!• *; f .t;-'":
:-;•'• r ■ ' ■' CHAPTER I.-'' '•' ■••■>'":f.tv.-^j i-t.-.;-^

HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.

;,!, ;.l.,, , I'l ,«( .. \

l{iine,~— Extent.-— Boundariet. — Original Population.'— Progre^ve GeO'
. I ,. . gri^hy. — Hiftorical Efoeht» ..;.*/

TILL the recent exteniion of tlie Birman empire, the rich and flou-
rifhine monarchy of Siam was to be regarded as the chief ftate of
exterior India.

Name.] The name of this celebrated country is of uncertain on-
gin, and in appearance firft delivered by the Portuguefe, in whofe
orthography Siam and Siao are the fame, fo that Sian, or Siang,
night be preferable to Siam * ; and the Portuguefe writers in Latm
call the natives ^fffn^r. The Siamefe ftjrle themfelves Toi, or freemen;
and their country Meuang Tait or the kingdom of freemen. It is pro-
bable that the Portuguefe derived the name Sian frcmi iotercourie with
the Pegucfe f . tr N't";'! ..>-* ,'>*.>t

Extent and boundaries.] The extent of the Siamefe dominions
bat been recently reftriAed by the encroachments of the Birmans, nor can
fome of the limits be accurately defined. On the weft of the Malaian pe-
niofala a few pofleflions may remain, to the fsuth of Tanaferim ; and on
the eaftem fide of that Cherfonefe Ligor may mark the boundary. On
the weft a chain of mountains feems to divide Siam, as formerly, firom
Pegu,— but the northern province of Yunflian would appear to be in
the hands of the Birmans who here feem to extend to the river Maykang.
To the fouth and eaft the ancient boundaries are fixed ; the oceam, and a
chain of mountains dividing Siam from Laos and Cambodia. Thus the
ancient idea may be retained, that this kingdom is a large vale between
two ridges of mountains.

The length of the kingdom may be about ten degrees, or near 700
Britifli miles ; but of this about one half is not above 70 miles in medial
I breadth.

Original population. ] The original population of Siam, and other
I regions of Exterior India, can only be traced by affinity of languages }
I and the topic has been little illuftrated.

Frogressite geography.] The progreffive geography of Siam

lifcends to clafllcal antiquity, if the people be, as is reafonably inferred,

theSinx of Ptolemy. In the reign of the emperor Juftinian, Cofmas,

called Indicopleuftes, mentions the filk of the Smae, as imported into

Taprobana ; which he alfo calls SiiieJhat coinciding with StlmM, the

I oriental name of Ceylon : and when he adds that this ifle was at an equal

Idiilance from the Perfian golph, and the region of the Sinae, he affords

Ian additional proof that the latter was Siam. This country is not indeed

lit prefent remarkable for the production of filk, the ftaple article of the

lancient Sinae ; but it appears that the filk of the early dailies was the

[growth of a tree, a kind of filky cotton, ftill abundant in Siam } and

* Loubere, i. 16. edit. Amft. 1714.

t <SAan.il ttu: oriental temi} « «pp«an firom feveral papcn in the Alatic Refearches.

D d 3 perhapsj

^tA

*'j%

•i

!«
If

406

SIAM.

perhaps, as Makcea afterwards became famotis for produfts not its own,
to Siam, in a fimilar centrical pofition between China and Hindoftan.
mighty in ancient times, be the mart of this and other more oriental
articles.

Some faint notices concerninff Siam may probably occur in the
oriental geographers of the middle age { but fuch inquiries are more
proper for an antiquarian difTertation. Suffice it to obferve that, till
the Pertuguefe difcoveries, Siam may be faid tohave remained unknown
to Europeans. In the middle of the feventeenth century MandelHo*
has compiled a tolerable account of this country j but the French de-
fcriptions prefent more precifion of knowledge, as well as more extent
of mformation. By the latter was firft reformed a fingular error in the
geography, which deduced the great rivers of Ava, Pegu, and Siam
from a large inland lake called Chiamai, in lat. 30^. while 1 ibet is placed
in lat. 40^ But on comparing tlie maps of Afia in the beginningof thelaft
century, the reader will be fenlible of the great progrefs of geography
in recent times.

HiSTORiGAi. EPOCHS.] The Siamefe hiftory is imperfed, and abounds
with fables. Their epoch is derived from the pretended difparition of
their god Sonmiona Codam (or Boodh) ; yet by I^oubere's account their
firft king began to reign in the year 1300 of their epoch, or about 756
years after the Chriilian era. Wars with Pegu, and occafional ufurpa-
tions of the throne, c«nftitute the hinges of Siamefe hiftory fince the For-
tuguefe difcovery. In 1568 the Peguefe king deckred war on account
of two white elephants which the Siamefe refuTed to furrender, and after
prodigious (laughter on both fides, Siam became tributary to Pegu.
But about 1620, Raja Hap: delivered his crown fi-om this fervitudef
In 1680 Phal<ion, a Greek adventurer, being highly favoured by the
king of Siam, opened an intercourfe with France, in the view of fup-
porting his ambitious defigns ; but they were puniflied by his decapi-
tation in 1689, and the French connexion ceafed in confequence. The
latter events of Siamefe hiftory may partly be traced in that of the Bir-

■^ vr^ '■■^'

man ettipire. ,■■ j;;-..-/ ■■ » ■ -* v.wi ...

•• ■' -. • .

CHAPTER IL ' I' ^ ^

, »•'• <■

Mtt/t.. - '"''.'i' • : ■■■■ ■ ' '•■'•• • '••' ■ 'y

POLITICAL GEOORAPHY.. ''

Jtel^oH. -*■ Gwemititnt. -^ Ltmt, — Pobu/atioti. — jfrmy. — ftavy.'-Rf-
venues. — Political Importance.

ftftLK^iON lT^^^ religion of the Siamefe, like that of the Birmars,
' •• ±. refembles that of the Hindoos ; and the tranfmigra-
tion of fouls forms an eflential part of the doArine ; but they imitate
the Chinefe in their feftival of the dead, and in fome other rites of that
finffular nation.

GovBKNMENT.] The government of Siam is defpotic ; and the fo*
vereign, as among the Birmani, revered with honot^rs almofl divine. The
fucceflion to the ctown is hereditary in the male line.

Laws.] The laws are reprefented by all writers on this countrjras
Extremely fevcre, death or mutilatiOR being the punifhment even of unini'
portant offences.

f.i'n •CbI. 004— oni.

!;i • / • I tW^ r. : ■< j

: ha

t Maudelflo, 394.

|»OPULAT10K.J

SI^M.

407

P0PULAT10X.3 Concerning the population of Siam there are no
ndequate documents. If the Birman empirp contain, as is aflerted,
more than fourteen millions^ it might perhaps be reafonable to con-
clude that the Siamefe dominions may be peopled by about eight
millions. Yet Loubere affures us, that, frOm aftual enumeration,
there were only found of men, women, and children, one million nine
hundred thoufand*. So uncertain are the computations in oriental
countries !

Army.] Loubere fays that, in his time, there was no army except
a few royal guards ; but Mandelflo eftimated the army, which may be
occafionally raifed, at 60,000, with not lefs than 3000 or 4000 elephants.
The manner of raifing this army refembles that already defcribed, as
praftifed in the Birman empire.

Navy.] The navy is compofed of a number of veffels of various
fizes, feme of which are richly decorated. Hence, as in the Bir-
man hiflory, naval engagements are not uacommon ; and the large
rivers of Exterior India are often reddened with human gore. Both
the Birman and Siamefe vefTels frequently difplay a Angular fantaftic
elegance.

Revenues.] The revenues of this fovereignty are of uncertain
computation. There is a reyal treafury, as in moft other eaftern ftates,
but voyagers have not attempted to define its probable amount.

Political importance and relations.] Siam appeared of con-
fiderable political importance to the French in the reign of^ Louis XIV.,
who afpired to form lafting fettlements, and render it a mart of Indian
commerce, and a fource of great opulence to themfelves. Were the
Birmans to become dangerous to our pofleflions in Bengal, a firm alliance
with Siam might be highly ferviceable. In a merely commercial point
of view, as it may be difhcult to preferve the friendfliip both of the Bir-
mans and the Siamefe, it is a matter of calculation trom which ftate fu-
perior advantages may be derived.

CHAPTER III.

CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.

Monutrs. — -Language. — Literature. — Cities. — Edifices. — ManufaBwres*

— Commerce.

M>vT»«.Bo .v,~ «.,»«,«..„ n T'HERE is a confidcrablc fimilitude in
Manners and customs. J I ^1 j a r u .1 a .

-' X the manners and cultoms ot all the ualcs

between the vaft countries of China and Hindollan ; with (hades of dif-
ference, as they approximate to either of thefe /bfj of civilization. Siam,
though centrical, has embraced a branch of Hindoo faith, and the man-
ners are rather Hindoftanic than Chinefe. , '

The women are under few reftraints, and arc married at an early age.
The efpoufals are concluded by female mediation ; and on the third vifit
the parties are confidered as wedded, after the exchange of a few prefents,
without any farther ceremony civil or facred. Polygamy is allowed ;
hut is rather pra£lifed from oltentation than any other motive, and one
wife is always acknowledged as fupreme.

The Siamefe funerals coniiderably refcmbic thofe of the Chinefe f .

• Loulitrr, i. ao.

Dd4

t lb. K H\,

The

4o8

SIAM.

The body is inqlofed in a wooden bier or varniflied coffin ; and the monlM
called Talapoins, (perhaps from their talafiant or peculiar umbrella,)
fing hymns in the Bali tongue. After a folemn proceffion the body is
burnt on a funeral pile of precious woods, eref^ed near fome temple •
and the (pedtacle is often rendered more magnificent by the addition of
theatrical exhibitions, in which the Siamefe excel. The tombs are in a
pyramidal form, and thofe of the kings large and lofty. Mourninv is
not prefcribed by the laws, as in China : and the poor are buried with
little ceremony.

The common noUrifliment of the Siamefe confifts in rice and fi(h, botI»
which articles are abundant. They alfo eat lizards, rats, and feveral
kinds of infers.

The houfes are fmall, and conftru£ted of bamboos upon pillars, to guard
againd inundations fo common in this country. They are fpeedily de-
ftroyed and replaced ; and a conflagration, if a common, is at the fame
time a flight calamity. Even the palaces only exceed the common habi-
tations by occuping a more extenfive fpace, and being conilrufted of
timber, with a few ornaments : they are alfo of a greater height, but
never exceed one floor.

In perfon the Siamefe are rather fmall, but well made *. " The
figure of the countenance, both of men and women, has lefs of the oval
than of the lozenge form, being broad, and raifed at the top of the cheeks ;
and the forehead fuddenly contra6ls, and is almofl as pointed as the chin.
Befides, their eyes rifing fomewhat towards the temples, are fmall and
dull: and the white is commonly completely yellow. Their cheeks
are hollow, becaufe the upper part is too high ; the mouth is very
large, with thick pale lips, and teeth blackened by art. The complexion
is coarfe, being brown mixed with red, to which the climate greatly con-
tributes f."

Hence it would appear that the Siamefe are much inferior in perfanal
appearance to the Birmans ; and rather approach to the Tataric or Chi-
nefe features.

The dfefs is extremely flight, the warmth of the climate rendering
clothes almoft unneceffary.

The Siamefe excel in theatrical amufements. Tlie fubje£t8 are often
taken from their mythology, and from traditions concerniiig their ancient
heroes. They have alfo races of oxen and thofe of boats, combat» of
elephants, coclc-fighting, tumbling, wrellling, and rope>dancing, religious
proceflions, and illuminations, and beautiful exhibitions of Hre-wori(s.
The men are generally indolent to excefs, and fond of games of chance,
while the women are employed in works of induiiry.

Language.] Like the other languages of Farther India, the Siamefe
has not been completely invefUgated, and compared with the adiacrnt
tongues. There are thirty-feven letters, all confonants ; the vowels and
diphthongs conflituting a diftin6t alphabet. The R appears, which ii
not known to the Chinefe, and the W. There is a confiderable chant
in the enunciation, as in other ancient languages. There are no inflexions
of verbs or nouns ; and the idioms being very remote from thofe of
Europe, any tranflation becomes very difficult. The words feem moilly
monoiyllabic, like the Chinefe.

* Lottbere, i. 81.

t Kmnpfer, I. 09. cilli them negrwi, fo dark did iheir complexion* Bpntar tohiai
tnd 1m romparef their peifuus to apci.

SIAM.

409

the Bali of the Siamefe refembles that of the Birmani, and has thirty-
three letters.

Literature] In Uterature the Siamefe are far from being defi.
cient, and Loubere has well explained their modes of education *. At
the age of feven or eight years the children are often placed in the con-
vents of the Talapoins, where they are inftru£led in reading, writing,
ind accompts ; for the mercantile profeflion is very general. They are
alfo taught precepts of morality ; but it is to be reeretted that Boodh
is not only the god of wifdom but of cunning, which is efteemed, if
not a pofitive virtue, yet a proof of fuperior abilities. Books of hif-
tory are not unknown, and there is an excellent code of laws. Poetry,
tales, and mythologic fables, feem to conftitute the other departments of
Siamefe literature.

Cities and towns.] The capital city of the kingdom has been
called Siam, by the vague ignorance of the Portuguefe navigators. In
the native language the name approaches to the European enunciation of
Yuthia. It is (ituated in an ide formed by the river Meinam. The walls,
inLoubere's time, were extenfive ; but not above a fixth part was inha-
bited. Its condition, fince it was delivered from the Birman conquel lu
1766, has not been defcribed.

The other chief towns in the Siamefe dominions are Bankok, at the
mouth of the Meinam ; with Ogmo and others on the eaftem coaft of
the gulph of Siam. In general thefe towns are only coUeflions of ho-
vels, fometimes furrounded with a wooden ftockade, and rarely with a
brick wall. As there is no recent defcription of the country, it would
be fuperfluous to dwell on old defcriptions of places perhaps ruined in
the frequency of oriental revolutions ; while other cities may have arifen
as yet unknown to geography.

Edifices.] Kaempfer, in 1690, vifited Siam ; and his account, though
brief, is folid and intorefting. He minutely defcribes two remarkable
edifices near the capital f. The firft is the famous pyramid called Puka
Then, on a plain to tlie N. W., ereAed in memory of a vi£lory there
obtained over the king of Pegu. It is a mafly but magnificent ftru£ture,
about 120 feet in hn^ht, in a fquare fpot inclofed by a wall. The firft
ftageis fquare, each fide being about 115 paces long. The others vary
in form ; and there arc open galleries ornamented with columns. At
the top it terminates in a (lender fpire.

The fecond edifice confifts of two fquares to the eaft of the city,
each furrounded with a fair wall, and leparated by a channel of the
river. They contain many temples, convents, chapels, and columns,
particularly the temple of Berklam, with a grand gate ornamented with
llatuesand other carvings ; the other decorations were alfo, by his ac-
count, exquifitc.

That intelligent voyager alfo defcribes fome other edifices ; and
liis ideas on the fubjeil deferve to be contrafted with thofe of Lou-
here, who, accuftomed to the pomp of Louis XIV., or difgufted
by the malTacre of his countrymen, may in this, and fome other in-
llances, have perhaps given imfavourable reprcfentations of this cele-
brated country.

Mani;f.\ctures.] Though the Siamefe are an indolent, yet they are
in ingcnioii! people, and fome of their manufaftures deferve praife. They
are little (killed in the fabrication of iron or fteel j but excel in that of
gold, and in miniature painting. The common people are moftly occupied

• L()ubcr«f,i. ISO. , ^ Kam^tfer, i. so.

4IO

SI AM.

in procuring fifli for their daily food, while the fupcrior claffes are eneao-eti
in a trifling traffic. r. b S o

Commerce.] The commercial relations are chiefly with Hindoftan
China, Japan, and the Dutch. '

- The productions of the country are prodigious quantities of grain, cot-
ton, benjamin ; fandal, aguallo, and fapan woods ; antimony, tin, lead
iron, load ftone, gold and lilver ; fapphires, emeralds, agates, cryftal, mar!
ble, and tombac *.

':;.,>

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.

i;/i..

Ciimate and Seafotu. — Face of the Country. — Soil and Agriculture. — Rivers.
. —Lakes.— Mountaint.-— Botany. — Zoology. — Mineralogy.

Climate and seasons.]

THE two firfl; months of the Siamefe
year, which correfpond with our De-
cember and January, form the whole winter of this country ; the third,
fourth, and fifth, belong to what is called their little fummer ; the feven
others to their sreat fummer f . Being on the north of the line their
winter of cOurle correfponds with ours ; but is almoll as warm as a
French fummer. The little fummer is their fpring ; but autumn is ab-
folutely unknown in their calendar. The winter is dry ; the fummer is
moid : the former is diftinguiflicd by the courfe of the wind, which
blows almoft conftantly from the north, refrefhed with cold from the
fnowy mountains of Tibet, and the bleak waftes of Mongolia.

Face of the country.] This country, as already mentioned, is a
wide vale between two high ridges of mountains, thus fomewhat refem-
bling Egypt on a wider (cale. Compared with the Birman empire, the
cultivated level is not above half the extent either in breadth or length,
Nor do the Siamefe feem fo indullrious as the Birmans, as their agricul-
ture does not appear to extend far from the banks of the river and its
branches ; fo tliat towards the mountains there are vafl aboriginal forells
filled with' wild animals, whence the numbers of deer and other ikins ex-
ported as merchandize. The rocky and variegated fliorcs uf the noble
gulph of Siam, and the fizc and inundations of the Meinam, confpire with
tne rich and pi£lurefque vegetation of the fioreils, illumined at night with
crowds of brilliant fire-flies, to imprefs ftrangers with delight and ad-
miration.

Soil.] The foil towards the mountains is parched and unfertile, but
on the fliores of the river confills, like that of Egypt, of an extremely
rich and pure mould, in which it is even difiicult to find a pebble. It i^
in fadi a muddy depofition, accumulating from early ages, and manured,
as it were, by regular inundations, fo as to produce exuberant quantities
of rice. The country would be a terreftrial paradife, were it not fub-
je6t to the mod abfurd defpotifm, which impoveriflies itfelf, and may
perhaps be clafled among tne word of governments, being far inferior to
that of their neighbours the Birmans.

Agriculture.] Agriculture, as ufual in thfc eaft, is fimplc and pri-
mitive. The chiefproduCt is rice of excellent quality ; but wheat ii not
i; ?known, in lands at a diftance from the inundations. Peae, and other

* Ualyryupte's Oriental Repertory, p. 1 1 1.

fLoubere, i. Ai).

vegetablfJ,

SIAM.

vegetables, alfo abound. Maize is confined to their gardens. From in-
dolence or prejudice fwldom more than one crop in a year is taken from
the fame land *.

Rivers.] The grand- river Meinam, a name which fignifies the mother
ofioaterf, reigns fupreme among the Siamefe flreams. It is very deep
and rapid, always full, and according to Ilasmpfer, larger than the
Elbef. He adds that the inhabitants fuppofc its fource to be in the
mountains which give rife to. the Ganges, and that it branches through
Cambodia and Pegu. The inundations are in September, after the fnows
h^.ve greatly melted in the northern mountains, and the rainy feafon
lias commenced. In December the waters decline, and fink by de-
grees to their former level. The water, though muddy, is pleafant and
falutary.

The banks of the Meinam are generally low and marfhy, but thickly
peopled from Yuthia to Bankok,~ below which are wild deferts like the
Sunderbunds of the Ganges. Monkeys, fire-flies, and mofkitoes, fwarm
on the fertile (hores.

To the north of the Siamefe dominions, fome rivers join the Meinam ;
but their names are unknown, and they belong to the Birman territories.

Lakes.] In the eaft of the kingdom a fmall lake is delineated, giving
fource to a river which flows into that of Cambodia ; and it is pro-
bable that others may exid near the mountains, though unknown to
geographers.

Mountains.] The extenfive ranges of mountains which inclofe this
kingdom on the eait and weft have been repeatedly mentioned. Thefe
may be called the Siamefe chaiiis, till the native names be afcertained. A
fmall ridge alfp paffes eaft and. weft, not far to the north of Yuthia. In
the north Siam terminates in plains; nor does it even by conqueft, feem
ever to have reached' the mountains on the Chinefe frontier.

F0RE.STS.] The forefts are numerous and large, and produce many
kinds of valuable woods. • c y •

Zoology.] The chief animals of Siam are elephants, buffaloes, and
dee*. Horfes feem little known or ufed, though found wild in Tibet ;
yet there are, or were, a few ill-mounted cavalry. The elephants of
Siam are of diftinguiflied fagacity and beauty ; and thofe of a white co-
lour are treated with a kind of adoration, as the Siamefe believe the fouls
of fuch are royal. Wild boars, timers, and monkeys, are alfo immerous.
The Meinam is, at diftant intervals of time, infefted with fmall poifonous
ferpents ; and the trees on its banks are, as already mentioned, beauti-
fully illuminated Vi^ith fwarms of fire-flies, which emit and conceal their
light' as uniformly as if it proceeded from a machine of the moft exadk con-
trivance.

Miner Ai^OY.] There are fome mines of gold, and others of copper,
mixed with a variable proportion of gold ; but the mines chiefly wrought
hy tlie Siamefe are of tin and lead. The tin, called calin bv the Portu-
^uefe, was fold throughout the Indies, but was foft and ill renned ; all of
>t> except that of Junkfeylon, was a royal perquifite |. '

Near Louvo was a mountain of load-ftone ; fine agates abounded in the
mountains, nor were fapphires unknown.

Isles.] Among the numerous and minute ifles which owe a doubtful
fubjedlion to Siam, Junkfeylon alone deferves mention. By Captain
Forcil's account, who vifited this ifle in 1 784, it annually exports abMit
500 tons of tin, and coataini i a,ooo inhabitants.

i>n .1;
* Loubere, ib. 50. f lb. i. 67. l^V. cdii. X lb. i, 8S7.

}y« '. , If

THE

4*2

SIAM.

THE other ftates of exterior India are Laos* Cambodia, Siampa*
Cochin-China, and Tunquin ; countries unimportant in themfelves
and concerning which the materials are imperfed.

mju

•^>r!

LAOS.

.;.],:

According to Kxmpfer * this was a powerful date, furrounded with
foreftsanddeferts; and difficult of accefs by water, becaufe the river
is full of rocks and cataraAs. But by the newly difcovered river of Anan
the paffage from Siam may perhaps be expedited. The foil is reprefented
as fertile in rice ; and Laos furnished the merchants of Cambodia with
the beft benzoin and lacca. Exquifite muflc is alfo brought from Laos,
with fome gold and rubies ; and the rivers boaft of the frefh water maya,
which yields pearls. The religion and manners reiemble thofe of Siam ;
but in perfonal appearance the people of Laos refemble the fouthem
Chinefe.

The chief river is ftyled Meinam-Kong, which afterwards pafles through
Cambodia. In Mr. Dalrymple's valuable map of exterior India this grand
ftream is called the Kiou Long, or Maykaunj^ ; and Mr. Arrowfrnith
derives it from the Tibetian alps, where it is nyled the Satchou, and af>
terwards by D' Anville the Lan-tfan Kiang ; which feems to identify it
as implying the river of Lan-tfang, or Leng, the capital of Laos.

CAMBODIA.

■''jv.)"' I'tfl ^'!'t <

This country is alfo called Camboja and Camboge ; and being partly
maritime, is known by repeated defcriptions. Like Siam, it is indofed
by mountains on the eaft and weft, and fertilized by a grand river, the
Maykaung, or Makon, which beu;in8 to inundate the country in June.
Near its mouth it is full of low ifles and fandbanks, fo that the naviga-
tion is impeded, and there is no port nor town. The country is thinly
peopled ; and the capital called Cambodia, perhaps becaufe we know
not the native term, confifts only of one ftreet, with> a fmgle temple. The
moft peculiar produA is the fubftance ftyled gamboge, or rather Cam.
boge gum, yielding a fine yellow tint. Ivory alfo abounds, with fe-
vera! precious woods : and lome add gold. The country is fertile in
rice, and animal food. There are many Japanefe fettlers, with Chin«fe
Mahvs, which laft can fcarcely be diilinguiftied from the natives, who
are (^ a dark yellow complexion, with long black hair.

1^1

'j if7"»'^l»V ii^: »rfii' J:

SIAMPA.

fU v-!7kiT

This fmall maritime traft is to the S.E. of Cambodia, fiom which it
feems to be feparated by a ridge of mountains. Mr. Pennant f inforaii
us, from an old French narrative, that the people of this country are
called Loyes ; and are large, mufcular, and well made ; the complexion
is reddifh, the nofe rather flat, the hair is black and long, the dreft
▼ery flight ^. The king refides at Feneri, the capital, and was tributary

• I. 40.

f WHli D' Anville he feells the Rune CUmpt. Staunton, i. 664, pnU Tfiompi, tui
fayt it epipeut from the (ca h « ftndjr \n&. intcffeAed with rocks,
t Ottthnet, iti. ftl.

•CUureblir.Col.wl

••-I,.

StAM.

4>3

itCochin-Ghina. ThcvproduAions are cotton, indigo, and bad filk.
Their junks are well built, and are much employed in fifliing.

to,

COCHIN-CHINA. ^ t-^ ; • :"

This country, prefentin^; an extenfive ranee of coaft, has been viiited
by many navigators, who have fupplied conUderable materials for its de-
^ption. The name is faid to imply Weftem China, and appears ta
bve been impofed by the early navigators, perhaps from the Malay ap-
pellation, while the native name remains unknown.
A confiderable deeree of civilization appears, and it is faid that the
people are of Chinele extract. The aboriginal favages, called Moos or
(emoos, are confined to the weftem range of mountains. As the (hores
ibound with havens, the canoes and junks are numerous. The country
it divided into diftin£^ provinces, the capital being Hue-fo, about forty
miles to the north of Turon, which is called Han-fan by the natives.
The fuperior ranks are clothed in filk, and difplay the politenefs of
Chinefe manners. The drefs of both fexes is fimilar, being loofe robes
I with large long fleeves ; and cotttfn tunics and trowfers. A kind of tur-
n covers the head of the men ; but no (hoes nor flippers are ufed. The
boufes are moftly of bamboo,^ covered with ruflies or the ftraw of rice ;
i (land in ffroves of oranges, limes, plantainsj and cocoa trees. PouU
try abounds m the markets An ardent fpirit diftilled fr«m rice is in
common ufe ; they evince fome flcill in the manufaflure of iron, and their
tarthern ware is very neat. The rainy feafon is during September, Oc>
tober, and November ; and the three following months are alfo cold and
)i(l, prefenting the femblance of an European winter. The inunda-
tions only laft two or three days, but happen once a fortnight in the
niny feafon. Borri's account bears that the rains only continue for three
days regularly in each fortnight : if true, a fingular phsenomenon *.
March, April, May, form a dehcious fpring ; while the heat of the three
following months is rather exceflive.
The horfes are fmall, but adtive : there are alfo mulesj and aifes, and
I ionumerable goats. The products of agriculture are rice of different
i|ualitiei>, yams, fweet potatoes, greens, pumpkins, melons. Sugar alfo
I abounds. Gold dull is found in the rivers : and the mines yield ore of
gular purity. Si'ver mines have alfo been lately difcovered. Both
Inetals are ufed in ingots, as in China. The little trade is chiefly con-
I Med by the Portuguese from Macao.

Mr. Pennant mentions tigers, elephants, and monkeys, as abounding
jinCochin-China {■ ; and that able naturnUft adds, that the edible birds'
\ efteemed a luxury in China, are chiefly found in this country. They
lire formed by a fpecies of fwallows from fome unknown vifcous fubftlince ;
lind the Dutch uied to export great numbers from Batavia, gathered in
jibe oriental ifles, and on the coafts of this country.

The Paracels form a lone chain of fmall iflands with rocks and ihoali,
iNlel to the coaft of Cochin-China.

I. •« :!

' .itA)

TUNQUIN,

This country was only divided from the former by a fmall river, and
ayatprefent becoofidcred as incorporated with it by conqucft. The

•CliuK>hill'(Col.voI.!i.
II

t Oudioes, iii. 69.

iohabitiots

SIAM.

in^bitants refemble their neighbours the Chinefe, but their manncra tre
not fo civilized. The produds are numerous, and feem to blend thofe of
China with thofe of Hindoftan. While the rivers in Cochin-China are
of a fhort courfe, thofe of Tunquin fpring from the mountains of Yun-
nan ; and in the rainy feafon, from May to September, inundate the ad'
jacent country. The chief is the Holi ICian, which, after receiving the Li-
iicn pafles by Keflio the capital. This ciiy is defcribed,by Dampier, as
approaching the Chinefe form, with a confiderable population. There is
no recent defcription of this country, which however rather refembles 4
Chinefe province, and is loft in the confideration of that ftupendous
empire.

In the gulph of Tunquin and adjacent Chinefe fea, the tuffons, or
as they have been quaintly latinifed, tjbhofUy are tremendous. " They
are preceded by very fine weather, a prefaging cloud appears in the north.
eaft, black near the horizon, edged with copper colour on the upper part
fading into a glaring white. It often exhibits a ghaftly appearance
twelve hours before the typhon burfts ; its rage lafts many hours from
the north-eaft, attended with dreadful claps of thunder, large and fre.
quent flafhes of lightning, and exceffive hard rains. Then it finks into
a dead calni, after which it begins again with redoubled rage from the
fouth-weft, and continues an equal length of time *.'"

The defcription of the various kingdoms ftf Exterior India being thus
completed, as far as the prefent defign and the imperfeft materiali
would admit, the geographical progrefs muft return to the weft.
ward, and difcufs the wide regions of Hindoftan, a diificult but in.
terefting theme.

f.}

"5»

tffn^'

•jrvf '>£'/;«l?t.'''>

f ■

HINDOSTAN.

IKTRODUCTION.

Ceneral Oh/ervaliont. — Arrangement. — Natural and Political Divifim.^
Plan of this prefent Dejcripiion.

]r* „„ .. „., „.„,.„ T T^HE defcription of this intereftin? por-

General geography.] J[ ^j^„ ^^ /^^^ .^ ^^^ ^ ,.^^,^ ^.^^

from its vaft and iiHregular extent, from the want of grand fubdivifions,
from the diverfity of nations and powers, large foreign fettlements, and
other caulks, fo that the iirft obje^ muft be to determine a clear and
natural arrangement.

Mr. Pennant, who often excels in geographical delineation, has, in
his view of Hindoftan, been contented with the vague divifions of |
Weftern, Eaftem, and Gangetic, or that part which is pervaded by
the Ganges, and its tributary ftrcaxns. Major Rennell, to whom we |
are indebted for an excellent map and memoir, which have thrown j
^reat light on Indian geography, firft coniiders the fea coali and
iflands ; as, in the conftruAion of a map, the outline of the coaft is thr |
earlieft obje^. He then defcribes Hindoftan in four other fedions : 1
I^That part occupied by the Ganges and iti principal branches ;j

%: ^^Aifc^eU * Pennant, OutUnM,iiJ. 76,

j."?n«fitu«4i»i

-.-^:'/«%-«p-*p-'«--

.t'-m^''

I'i'llf 3tKi-

bum ilrrtnvMnHtu « JthPrt Map oCiUU

l'<fflfatict-

nMu 4 jthi>rt Mfip «tA«U

ti/t^'.<Nl*^'*<*»".'«'

1 »

l\ .

2. That occupied b^
\. The track fituatedl
iions: 4. The count!
improperly called the
llyled a peninfula, in '
by the fea.

GbNERAL DlTlAo?

feems the beft, not on|
profound acquaintance
being familiar to the
work. Amidft the wl
can be afllgned as naj
form limits, the iountr
may be coiiudered asl
Gangetic part of Hinj
fpace from the cenfini
Sippra, and from the
molteaftern boundary

That portion vvaterei
may in like manner be
to this divifion may b
trafts to the weft of (

The fouthem part if
where the river Kiftna
In ancient times this f
plying the fouth. But
far in a northerly direi
would in fa£^, with th
plete the whole of Hii
ufed for the portion to

That portion on the
Hindoftan on the nortl
mentary provinces on t
Central Hindoflan.

In this arrangemeht
Allahabad, Oude, Agr
Sindetic contains Kutt(
tan, and Sind^*-'' A

The central diviiion
Berar, Oriffa, the Sin
Dowlatabad, and Cone

The fouthem diviiioi
fore, the extenflve regi
Madura, and other hn
that of Malabar, and t
is naturally included tl

Political divisions
neral view of Hindoftan,
powers. Of thefe th(
from European tadics,
equal to that of any nal
Gangetic Hindoftan, 1
below the eftuary of thi
government of ^• dras.
the fouth and wefi of

/ "-*^"i*

•-^

HINDOSTAN.

415

2, That occupied by the courfe of the Sind^» Sindeb, or ri,ver Indus :
». The track fituated between the river Kiftna and the two former divi-
i'lons : 4> The countries to the fouth of the Kiftna, dr what is perhaps
improperly called the foutherii peninfula, as no part of Hindoftan can be
llyled a peninfula^ in the modern acceptation of being nearly furrounded
by the fea.

Gbneral mviiloNs.] The general plan adopted by Major Renndl
feems the beft* not only in itfelf, as was to have been expected from his
profound acquaintance with the fubjei^, but as having the advantage of
being famiHar to the public, from the widely diffufed reputation of his
work. Amidil the want of important ranges of mountains, rivers alone-
can be ailigned as natural divifions ; and as in Hindoftan they do not
form limits, the ;.ountrie8 pervaded by their courfes and tributary (Ireama
may be coiiudered as detached by the hand of nature. Hence the
Gangetic pare of Hindoftan, to ufe Mr. Pennant's term, includes the
fpace from the cenfines of Tibet to the fources of the Chtimbul and
Sippra, and from the mountains near Agimere and Abugur hills, to the
molt eaftern boundary of Hindoftan.

That portion watered by the Sinde or Indus, and its fubfidiary ftreams,
may in like manner be termed Sindetic Hindoftan ; and as a fupplement
to this divifion may be confidered the country of Sirhind, and other
trafls to the weft of Gangetic Hindoftan.

The fouthem part is encompafled by the fea, except on the north,
where the river Kiftiia and its' fubfidiary ftreams form the boundary.
In ancient times this portion was ftyled Deccan, a native term im-
plying the fouth. But the Deccan 01 the Hindoos extended twice as
tar in a northerly direction, even to the river Nerbudda ; fo that it
would in hA, with the Gangetic and Sindetic divifions, nearly com-
plete the whole of Hindoftan. The term Deccan is therefore here
ufed for the portion to the fouth of the Kiftna.

That portion on the north of the Kiftna, reaching to Gangetic
Hindoftan on the north and eaft, and the Sindetic with its fupple-
mentary provinces on the north and weft, may be ftyled Interior or
Central Hindoftan.

In this arrangemeht the Gangetic part will include Ben'gal, Bahar,
Allahabad, Oude, Agra, and a part of Delhi and A?imere. The
Sindetic contains Kuttore, Cafhmir, Cabul, Candahar, Lahore, Moul-
tan, and Sind£.

The central divifion reprefents Guzerat in the weft, with Candeifli,
fierar, Oriifa, the Sircars, the chief part of Golconda, Vifiapour,
Dowlatabad, and Concan.

The fouthern divifion includes a fmall portion of Golconda, My-
fore, the extenfive region called in modern times the Camatic, with
Madura, and other mialler diftridls, the weilern coaft being called
that of Malabar, and the eaftern that of Coromandel. la this part
is naturally included the ifland of Ceylon.

Political DIVISIONS.] The next topic to be confidered, in: a ge-
neral view of Hindoftan, is its political fituation as divided among various
powers. Of thefe the Eftghfli is at prefent preponderant, not only
From European tadics, but from an a^ual extent of territoiy at leaft
equal to that of any native power. To our former wide poffelSons in
Gangetic Hindoftan, with a large portion of the eaftern coaft from
below the eftuary of the Kiftrla to the lake of Chilka, and the^etached
p>vemment of & dras, have been recently added extenfive regions i^
the fouth aod weft of Myfore, with Seringapatam the capitd, not to
* f '- ' , mention

jrfSi-. «,

41 6

HINDOSTAN.

mention Bombay and other detached eftablifhments. And the large and
important ifland of Ceylon has been wrefted from the Dutch.

Next in confequence are the Maratta ftates, chiefly contained in the
central divifion of Hindoftan.

The Nizam, or Soubah of the Deccan, our firm ally, has confiderably
enlarged his territory in the fouth at the expence of Tippoo; the
central part of whofe dominions, except Seringapatam, is fubiedt to
the Raja of Myfore, a defcendant of the race dethroned by Hyder,
an ufurper.

The Britifh, the Marattas, and the Nizam, may be regarded as the
three leading powers, to which may be added on the weil, or on the Sin-
detic divificHi, the Seiks and Zemaun Shah, or whatever prince holds
the eaflem divifion of Perfia.

The following tab}e, extracted, with a few alterations, from Major
Rennell's Memoir, will convey a more complete and fatisfadory idea of
this important topic.

*5-

a.
3-

5-
<6.

7-
6.

I. British Possessions.

Bengal and Bahar, with the Zemindary of Benares,

Northern Sircars, including Guntoor.

Barra-Mahal, and DindiguL

Jaghire in the Carnatic.

The Calicut, Palicaud, and Coorga countries.

II. British Allies. '

AzuphDowIah. Oude.
Mahomed Alii. Carnatic.
Travancore^ and Cochin.

III. Maratta States.

PooNA Marattas. Tribittauies.

Malwa.
Candeifh.

Part of Amednagur, or Dow-
latabad.
Vifiapour.
Part of Guzerat.

Agra.

Agimere.

Allahabad.

Shanoor, or Sanore, Banca-
pour, Darwar, &c. fituated in
the Dooab, or country be-
tween th? Kiflna and Tombu-
4lra rivers. .

BtJtAR Marat TAA.

Berar.
OriOa.

1 . Rajah of Jyenagur.

2. Joodpour.

7-
8.

Oudipour.

Narwah.
Gohud.

Part of Bundelcund.
Mahomed Hyat. Bopaltul
Futty Sing. Amedabad.
Gurry Mundella, &c. &c.

ThIbutark.
Bembajee.

* ThecoiintriM tkus marktd, are ■cquifitiottifiom Tippoo Sultan under the Utf treti]
^S«rliigip«um. To which iwift aow b« added CoimbetorB, Caran, and other Mtl&t ic-
*tttiBid«ln 1 7 99. Sw IUumU'i SuppltoMota^ Map, dated 5th April I SOO.

IV. Nizam

illNDOStAll.

■,jY : tV* KlZAM AlI, SoVBAH OF THE DeCCANv

\. Gotgdnda. ♦

4. Aurungabad.

^. Beder.

4. Partof E:'»'aK

J. Adcii, Rachore^ and

i I

Canoul.
6. Cuddapjdi. CutHmum (or

Comb^m) and Gandicotta (or
Ganjecotta).

7. Part of Gooty, Adoniy and
" Canoul.

8. Part of the Dooab.
[9. Other diltrifls acquired in

1799O

^•'

• ■• , ^ ' V. Seiks. ' '•

Lahore, Moultanj And the weftcrn parts of Delhi. '

As the other great power chiefly extends over Perfia, and may be re-
garded as foreign, it only remains to mention the fniall itates.

1. Snc(^enbrs of Zabeda Cawn. Sehauiunpouf.

2. Jats.

3. Pattan Rohillas. Furruckabad.

4. Adjig Sing. Rewah, &c.

5. Bu.idelcund, or Bundelaw

6. Little Bailogiftanv

To which may now be a^ded the Raja of Myfore.

The Britilh poffefllons prior to the fall of Tippoo, 1 799, were fuppofed
to contain 197,496 fquare Brittfli miles, being abowt 60,000 more than
are coinpr ifed in the united kingdoms of Great Britain and Ireland : the
number uf inhabitants was computed at ten millions. The acquifition in
1799 probably adds 15,000 fquare miles, and the population fubjedk to
Great Britain is fuppofed to be 12 or 14,000,000. The net revenue ex*
cccded three millions before the ceflions by Tippoo in 1792, computed
at 400,0001. ; while thofe in 1799 do not appear much to exceed half
that fum. This great powef and revenue of fo diltant a country, main-
tained in the midlt of a highly civilized foreign nation, is perhaps \xxf'
examplcd in ancient Or modern times.

The Marattas are divided into two Hates or empires, that of Poona*
or the weflern, and Berar, or the eallern : each ruled by a number of
iliii'fs or princes, who pay a nominal obedit-nce to the paithwa, or
fovercign. An account of the Marattas belongs to the central divifion
of Hindoftan. The Seiks, a new religious fed, firll appeared in the
middle of the feventeenth century, and have gradually become formi*
dable to the neighbouring ftates. The Jats, or Jets, were a tribe of
Hindoos, who about a century ago credcd a ftate around the capital
Agra. The Afghans, another peculiar people, originated from tl»e
mountains between Perfia and India.

Before clofing thefe general confidcrations with regard to this extenfive
country, it may be proper to obfervc that 'the name of llindotlan liaa
betn confidered as fynonimous with the empire of tlie great Mongul.
But the power of the Monguls, which commenced under Babcr, 15 18,
was moll eminent in the northern parts, the Deccan, or fouth, remaining
unfubducd till the time uf Aurunzeb, 1678, when that region, with what
>s called the peninfula, a few mountainous and inacceflible trads onljr
wccptcd, were either vanquifhed or rendered tributary to the throne of
Delhi*. When Aurunzeb died in 1707, in his 90th year, the Mongul
TOpire had obtained its utmoJl extent from the 10th to the ^cth degree
Platitude, ({ibout 1750 Britilh miles,) and about as much in length |

• Rt^nmU'i Mfinoir, page iii.
Ee

Ibt

#l.

HINDOwSTAN.

the revemie exceeding thirty-tvvo millions fterKng, in a cbuntry where
provifions are about four times -as ch^ap as in England. The number ot'
his fubjofts may be computed at about fixty millions, • But this frreat
power declined fo rapidly, that within fifty years after his death it may
be faid to have been annihilated, and the empire of the great Mongul has
vanifhed from modern geography.

The plan to be purfued, in the fubfequcnt brief account of Hindoftan
has been above indicated as divided into fotir parts ; the region on the
Ganges, thofe on the Indus, the central, and the fouthern. In three of
thefe divifions the Britifli pofleffions are powerful, if not predominant •
and it is difficult to conne6l the political with the natural geography'.
Doubts may jultly arife whether the Britifh territories ought not to lorm
a fcparate' and diltindl portion, in a perfpicuous arrangement, this bein'r
another of the peculiar difficulties which attend the geography of Hin.
doftan. But as the grand mafs of the population in thefe fettlements
confiils of native Hindoos, and the natural geography of the country
mud: not be facrificed to any extraneous coniideration, it ftill fcems pre-
ferable to abide by the divifion already laid down. Hence that form of
defcription muft be chofcn which, reftine on the perpetual foundations of
nature, cannot be injured or obliterated by the deftinies of man.

Thefe confiderations beine premifed, a fimilar arrangement fhall here
be followed in defcribing Hindollan, a labyrinth of eaftern geograpliy,
with that ufed in delineating Germany, that labyrinth ot European

f;eography. A general view of the whole region (hall be followed by
ncceflive chapters on each of the above divifions j in which the feveral
ftatcs, chief cities, and other geographical topics, (hall be briefly
iUuilrated.

CHAPTER I. \

GENERAL VJEW OF HINDOSTAK.

Name, — Boundaries. — Original Population, — Progre^ve Geography. —
Ht^orj. — Chronology . — Hi/lor'ual Epochs. — Anctent Monuments, —
Mythology. — Religion, — Government. — Laws. — Population, — Gntnl
Revenues,- — Political Importance. — Manners and Gujioms, — Langua^ts,
— Literature. — /tticient CivUixation. — Univerpties, — Inland Navigaiion.
'—Manufa3urfs.~~-Native ProduSs.— Climate and Seafont,—G(ntrd
Face of the Country. — Soil. — Rivers, — Lakes. — Mountains. — Dt-
fcrts. — Forejls.—Iivtany. — Zoology,— Mineralogy, — Mineral IVaieu
-^Natural Curinftties. i -

Name T '^ I ''HE native name of this celebrated country is faid to be
•^ X. in<the ancient Sanfcrit language Bimrata*. That ci
Hindoftan fceemi to have been impofcd by the Perfians, and derived,
like the clallical name India, from the great wcitern river, with the
Perfian termination Tan or Stan^ whick fignifies a country. It was long
known, as already mentioned, by the name of the empire of the Great
Mogul, becaufe it was then fubjcA to Mongul emperors^ fuccelTorsof
Timur. . .

Boundaries.] This portion of Afia extend* from Cape Comari,

* Rennel, m. from Will'int i but the proper natira term feeoM to be Meilbjtini, >b«1
Blunt wu die fiiA kui|* Ai. U«l'. i,4l9« - ., •

called

HINDOSTAN.

4»?-

called by navigators Coniorin, in the fouth, to the mountains which fern
the northern bjiindary of Caflimir ; that is, according to the molt recei:
maps, from about the 8th to about the 35th degree ot northern hititiidi,
being iwenty-feven degrees, or 1620 g. mjles, nearly equal to 1890 Britifl.
The northern boundary may be ytt farther extended to the Hindoo Kol,
and mountains running E. and W. on the north of the province >£
Kuttore. ^ '

From the river Araba, on the weft of the province of Sinde, totl»
mountains which divide Bengal from CalTay and the Birman domin^on^
that is, from about the fixty-fixth to the iiinety-fecond degree of eai\
longitude from Greenwich, there are 26 ', which in the latitude of 25''
conftitute a breadth of more than 1400 g. mile8,'for 1600 Britifh Com-
paratively, if we exclude Scandinavia, the former kingdom of Poland,
and the Ruffian empire, the extent may be confidered as equal to that of
the remainder of Europe.

Tlie boundaries are mwlced on the north by the mountains above men-
tioned. On the weft, towards Perfia, other ranges and deferts conftitute
the frontier tin the fouthern feparation ends in the river Araba. The other
boundaries arc fupplied by the Indian ocean and Bay of Bengal, where thi
eallem extremity is limited by the little river Naaf, and thofe mountains
which divide the Britidi pofTcflions from Aracan, Caffay, and Cafhur.
The northern boundary generally coniiib of the fouthern ridges of the
Tibetian Alps. On the N. E. of Bengal a fimilar ridge divides Hindof-
tan from the fmall territory of Afam, which feems an independent ftate,
never having formed a portion of Hindoftan, of dubious connection with
Tibet, and as yet unfubdued by the Birman"^

Original popux.atiox.] The original p&pulation may be generally
confidered as indigenous, or, in other words, peculiar to the country.
Yet in fo extenfive a region, and amidft the great diverfity of climate
and fituation, the native race prefents conliderable varieties, efpecially as
being fairer in the northern parts, and in the foutliern almoft or wholly
black, but without the negro wool or features. Still the tinge of the
women and fupcrior clafles is deep olive, with fometimes a flight and
agreeable mixture of the ruddy, and the Hindoo form and features may
befaidto approach the Periian or European ftandard. The fole ancient
conquefts of Hindoftan having proceeded from the N. W. and weft, there
maybcfome flighr'admixture of thePerfians, of the Greeks of Baftriana,
and of the ancient Scythians. More recently Mahmudof Ghizni intro-
duced a group of Mahometans of various origins. The Patans or Afgans
proceeded from the mountains towards Perfia, being afterted to be a tribe
of Albanians who emigrated to the eaftward. The Mongiils are well
known to have included many Tatars, and Mahometan tribes from the
eall of the Cafpian. Thefe« with the Arabs and Perfians, arc generally
called Moors.

Pkookbssivk OROGRAPHY.] The progreflive geography of Hindoftan
maybe faidto begin with the viftories of Alexander the Great. After
the age of this prince many Greek and Roman authors, particularly Strabo,
Arrian. and Pliny^ have left information concerning the Hate uf India.
One of the moft important ancient records is the delcription and map of
Ptolemy^ but they are fo much diftorted as to embarrafs the muft learned
inquirer. Far from reprefenting India in its juft form^ as Uretching far
to the fouth, he fuppoies the ocean to flow from the gulph of Cambayt
almoll in a line to the lake of Chilka, thus immeriing under the waves a
third part of Hindoftan. At the fame time he afligns to the ifland of
Taprc)bana> or Ceylony an enormous and fabulous extent.

Ec a A 11 mi*

l:f

4»

HINDOSTAN.

A fimilar inftance indeed occurs in Biiliop Leflie's map of Scotland, fn
w»ich the ifle of Hirta or St. Hilda is reprefented as three times as large
a^Mull ; and perhaps the extent of Taprobana was in like manner fwelled
fr^m its celebrity ; or drawn'by fome mariner and followed by Ptolemy in
hi,defcription> without obferving the fue of the fcale.

"This celebrated country ^received little farther illuftration till the fixth

ceituiy : the intelligence however of Cofmas is of no confequence, except

a9t elucidates the Perfian tcaffic with India. Some materials may alfu

b derived from the accounts of the Mahometan travellers in the ninth

^ntury, and the oriental works of geography ; nor was the great Engjifh

iing, Alfred, incurious concerning this celebrated region *. Marco Polo,

the father of eaftern geography as known to Europeans, was followed by

other travellers ; and at length the Portuguefe difcovery of the Cape of

Good Hope gradually led the way to the precifion of modern knowledge,

to which a recent geographer, Major Rennel), has contributed with great

fuccefs and deferved celebrity. ,

History.] The hittory of Hindoftan is a moft obfcure and embroiled
fubjeft, as either no native chronicles were written, or they were deilroyed
by the Bramins, anxious to obliterate the memory of former and happier
ages, when their inordinate power was not eftablimed. Sir WiUiam Jones
and Anquetil du Perron have bcftowed fome attention on this fub]e6l ;
but their inveftigations are more interefting to the antiquary than to the
general reader f. The native traditions feem to defcribe the northern part
of HindoAan as fubjt'£i to one raja or fovereign, which is little probable,
as the moft ancient extraneous accounts reprcfent this wide country di.
vided, as was to be expedle<J; into many monarchies. By all accounts,
however, the Deccan, orfuuihern'part,wa8 fub^eA to a diftind emperor,
even to modern times. " Its emperors of the Bahmineah dynafty (which
commenced with Haflan Caco, A.D. 1347)* appear to have exceeded
in power and fplendour thofe of Delhi, even at the moft flouriihing
periods of their hiftory. The feat of government was at Calbergj,
which was centrical to the great body of the empire, and is at this day a
conHderable city. Like other overgrown enipires, it fell to pieces with
its own weight, and out of it were lormed four potent kingdoms, under
the names of Vifiapour (properly Bejapour), Golconda, Berar, and
Amednagur, of whofe particular limits and inferior members we are cot
well informed. Each of thefe fubftfted with a confiderable degree of
power until tlie Mogul conqueft ; and the two firft, as we have fecn
above, preferved their independency until the time of Arungzebe ^."

Chronology.] The Hindoo Chronology, publiibed by Anquetil du
Perron, is that of the rajas or fovereigni of Bengal ; and the moll re-
markable fa£^s are i-epeated invafions by the Peruana, one of them fup-
pofcd to be fourteen centuries before the Chriftian era. This kingdom
of Bengal feems to have included alm*ft the whole of Ganffetic Hin-
doftan. But the names and extent of the early kingdoms of Hindoftan
are little known or inveftigated.

Historical epochs.] The Hindoo epochs, confifting of millioniof

* The Saxon chronicle, ui'l other Englifli writers, ncntion that Suitlielm, l>i(h?p of
Sliu'cbum, curried a prcfent fruin Alfred to th« (hriue of St. Thomu in Iiuiia, ind re*
turned in fat'ety uiih fome curiolities from the country. Ihit Ihumii wii imt ihr
apudle, but fumt Nfllorianraifliunary ; aiid hrt flirin* iait Malifour, ncu Mtiiu, w\
th» cutA of Corufliitiulel. Allircd little fortfttw iluK an EiigUflt fMUcoMnt km to indtdt
this holy ground.

t Afutic Refearciie*, vol. ii. tudDtmouiUi'l CoUeAioa concaaiDg Indit. B«(li>i >7I6,
V^t (one a, t Rennsllf Inipi.

* • ; '" -'^ yeiri,

HINDOSTAN.

ytuit and other fabulous circumftances, have hitherto attra£led more
attention than a clear arrangement of the Hindoo fovereignties, and an
account of ^the moft authentic fafts that can be recovered concerning
them. While thefe chronologies differ by one or two thoufand years
concerning the incarnation of Budha, we may judge of their exaAnefs
in lefs important events.

The Hindoos never feem to have boafted of one native hillorian, and
the bed materials are derived from Perfian Memoirs; from which Feriflita,
himfelf, a Perfian, compiled his hiftories of Hindoitan towards the be-
ginning of the feventeenth century. Indeed in the whole complex maze
of Hindoo literature there is a ftriking deficiency of good fenfe *. In this
defeft of native records we mull be contented with the epochs derived
from foreign fources.

1. The invafion by Alexander the Great, who found Weftem India
divided among numerous potentates, though he advanced little farther
than Lahore. If even the northern half of Hindoftan had been fubjedl
to one fovercign, as fabled in the native tales, the circumilance would have
been clear and apparent.

2. At a long interval appears the conqueft of the north-weftem part
byMahmoud ofGhizni, A.D. looo.

3. The dynafty of the Patau, or Afghan emperors, begint with CAttubf
A.D. 1205, and ends with Mahmoud III. 1393.

4. The Great Moguls, or Mongul emperors, begin with Babar, 1 525 ;
and continued, with a (hort interruption, by the Patans to Shah Aulum,
to 1760.

The invafion by Timur, and, at a diftant interval, that by Nadir, alfo
form remarkable epochs in the hiftory of this pafllve country. The latter
may be faid to have virtually diflblved the Mogul empire. The Portuguefe
fettlements were followed by thofe of the Dutch. The French power
began to predominate in 1749, but fpeedily clofed in 1761, with the
loU of their principal fettlement, Pondicherry. As merchants, the
Engliih had long held fmall fettlements in Hindoftan ; but the expedition
into Tanjore, 174.9, was the firft enterprize againft a native prince.
Other contefts followed concerning Arcot in the kingdom of Carnada,
or what we call the Camatic. In 1756 the fort of Calcutta, our chief
fettlement in Bengal, was taken by the nabob, and many of our brave
countrymen perifhed in a fhocking manner, from being cotif.ned in a fmall
chamber. The battle of Plafley, fought in June 1757* laid the founda-
tion of the fubfequent power of Britain. Lord Clive, governor of
Bengal, 1765, obtained a grant from the nominal Mogul of Bengal*
Bahar, and part of Orifla, on condition of an annual tribute. Soon
after the Engliih were engaged in a conteft with Hyder AUi, a foldier
«f fortune, who had dethroned the lineal fovercign of MayfTur or Myfore*
and extended his conquefts to the adjacent territories. Some conflicts
lollowcd on the confines of Carnada and Myfore ; but the event was
little advantageous to either party. Hyder, dying in 1783, was fuc-
cecded by his fon Tippoo, who fecms to have been a prince of inferior
abilities, and expiated his ill arranged plans by his death, and the partition
of his territories, in 1 799.

• Mr. Benilfy obfirrvci, Af. Ref. v. .115, that the Hiniloo ma and dttei tre all blended
•O^iAw into one mnfi of abfurdhy and contradi<^iun. A curiou* .i (lance of this appeart
*itl» rrgurd to tlir rclebratecl teinploa of iillura, and tbr fingular lorucfs of Dcoghir, or
l>ow|»tabad, furined on u li'rgb conic rot k { for the Maboni^-tam, whom we £un)|K^na
"l?»nl at rather e»trav«i;nnt in ebronokuty, fay tliat tbey were «re6kU 900 yeaia ago ;
»l»ili tlic Br»lunin» affirm tlitt they have fti'iod not left lliaii 78»* je»« ' Af. Rcf. vi 385.

Ect

"* The

hi"

i^ii

HINDOSTAK.

The Bengal provinces have been in our poireflion fince 176c • and
Benares was added in 1 775. This portion might conllitiite a confiderable
kingdom, and is fufficiently compact and fecurc by natural advantages
independently of a formidable force. The Sircars, or detached provinces
partly belong to Golconda,- and partly to Orifla, forming a long narrow
flip of country from twenty to feventy-five miles wide, but about three
hundred and fifty in length. ' The word Sircar is ahiioft fynonymous with
an Engh(h county, implying a divifion of a Souba, or great province'
and thrfe ditached Sircars or counties, being to the north of Madras on
which they are dependent, are commonly ftyled the northern Sircars >•. L,
1 754 they were acquired by the French } and conquered by the EiiTlilh
under Colonel Clive in 1759.

The Engljfh fettled at Madras about the year 1640; and their territory
here extends, about a hundred and eight Britifli miles along the ftiore,and
forty-feven in breadth, in the centre of the ancient kingdom of Carnada.
The recent and extenlive acquilitions in the fouth have been already
mentioned.

Nor among the modern hiftorical epochs of Hindoftan mud the cele.
brated battle* of Panniput, not far to the N.W. of Delhi, be omitted,
wliich was fought in 1761, between the Mahometans under Abdalha
king of Candahar, and the Marattas, in which the latter were de.
feated; the Mahometans were computed at 150,000, and the Marattas
at 20o,oon.

Ancient monuments.] The ancient monuments of Hindoftan are
very numerous, and of various defcriptions, exclufive of the tombs and
other edifices of the Mahometan conquerors. Some of the moft remark-
able are excavated temples, ftatucB, rehevos, &c. in an ifland near Bom-
bay f . The idols reprefented feem clearly to belong to the prefent my.
thology of Hindoftan ; but at what period thefe edifices were modelled,
whether three hundred or three thoufand years ago, muft be left in tlie
darknefs of Hindoo chronology. Several ancient grants of lands, fome , I
coins and feaU, liave alfo been found. Yet all thefe remains little cor.
refpund with the exaggerated ideas entertained concerning the early civi-
lization of this renowned country ; while the Egyptian pyramids, tern.
pies, and obelifks, iiroiigly confirm, the accounts preferved by the
ancient hiftorians.

Mythology.] Though the mythology of the Hindoos may pretend
to great antiquity, yet their prefent form of religion is fuppofed to vary
couiiderably from the ancient. It is inferred that while the religion of
Boodha, ilill retained by the Birrnans and other adjacent nations, was
the real ancient fyftem or Hindoftan, the artful Bramins have introduced
many innovations in order to increafe their own power and influence. In
a fyliem fo full of imagination it is no wonder that the analyfes are fome-
times difcordant, but it appears that the fabric refts on ttutt ahnoft uni*
verfal fyftem of the eaft, the belief in a fupreme Creator too inefl'able
and fublime for human adoration, which is therefore addreifed to inferior,
but great and powerful divinities.

Religion.] The religion of the Hindoos is artfully interwoven with
the common offices of life ; and thedifferent cafts are fv]\ 'ifed to origi-
nate from Brahma, the immediate agen^ of creation u.;,!ei' the fupreme
power, in the following manner :

The Br^thmin from the mouth (wifdom) ; To pray, to read, to iji"

Vi * JUbdcUi aaadft ^ ' f Af. Bef, roh i. ind tU

Tl»

HINDOSTAN.

4*3

pretend
10 vary
igion of
3n$, was
reduced
nee. In
re fome-
noft uni«
ineffable
inferior,

von with
to origif
fupreine

}, to in"

Tl>«

The Chehteree, from the arms (ftrength) : To draw the bow, to fight,
to govern.

The Br'tce, from the belly or thighs f nouriihment) : To provide the
neceflfaries of life by agriculture and traffic. . ,

The Sooder, from the feet (fubiedtion) : To labour, to ferve *.

The ancientfl fometimcs enlarged the number of thefe cafts, or perpe-
tual orders of men, by an erroneous fubdivifion of two or more, yet it is
impoiTible to read their accounts without perceiving that the cafts them-
felves exifted from time immemorial^ but with one important variation.
For it would appear that in ancient times the Brahmans like the priells,
or monks of Ava, Siam, and other ilates which Itill follow the wor/hip
of Boodh, were not hereditary or a diilinft Levitical tribe, but that any
member of .the other cafts might enter into this order, which was of
courfe deemed inferior to the chief fecular or military caft. At prefent
the meaneft Brahmin will not condefcend to eat with his fovereign. Set-
ting the ridiculous and fanciful tales of this interefted tribe wholly out of
the queftion, it would appear that in the ufual circle of human affairs, a
conteft had arifen between the regal and ecclefiaftical powers. The latter,
iiiilead of being fubdued, as in China and Japan, acquired the fuperiority,
as in Tibet. But in Hindoftan, fromamoft refined and cunning policyi
the priefthood afferted the divine inftitution of the feveral cails, and as
wa3 natural, pronounced their own to be the fupreme, and poiTefied of
innate and hereditary fanftity.

Government.] Hindpftan is now divided into many governments,
tlie form of which mud be conddcred in defcribing the (everal dates.
Suffice it here to obferve that though the Bramins be the mod dignified
cait» yet there do not feem to have been one or mure high priells, as
in the furrounding countries. The fovereignty was abandoned to the
mihtary caft, and the monarch was prefumed to be the proprietor of all
the lands, except thofe belonging' to the church. The Ryots held their
poifeifions by a leafe at a fixed rate, and conlidered as perpetual. The
Zemindars were, in the opinion of fome, only colleftors of the royal rents
from the Ryots or farmers ; but according to others the Zemindars were
landed gentlemen, who had a hereditary right to thefe rents, upon paying
a fettled proportion to the crown.

Laws.] The laws of the Hindoos are intimately blended with their re-
ligion, and the curious reader may confult the code, tranflated and pub-
lilhed by the diredion of Mr. Haftings.

Population.] The population of this cxtenfive part of Afia is fup-
pofed to amount to iixty miUious, of which the Britiih pofleflions may
now perhaps contain a quarter, cfpecially as frequent recent conflidis
have thinned the population in many other parts of Hindoftan. When
it is confidered that China is about one quarter lefs than Hindoftan,
and yet is faid to contain three hundred and thirty millions, we may
judge of the boafted effects of Hindoo philofophy, more fit for the
vilionary call of the reclufe than to promote univerfal fpirit and induftry.

General revenues.] The general revenues of Hindoftan were
computed in the time of Aurunzeb, as already mentioned, by a
precife calculation of thofe of the feveral provinces, at thirty two
millions fterhng ; equal perhaps, coiifidcring the comparative price
of produds, to one hundred and iixty millions fterling in modern £ng-*
land.

Political importance.] The political importance and relations of

* Rubertfon't Difquifition, p.
£e 4

aai.

Hindofta •

4»4

HINDOSTAN.

Hindoftan are now divided among many powers. So miferable was tl)c
internal conftitution, that this wide and populous country, defended on all
fides by ranges of nK>ttntains, has in all ages fallen a prey to every in.
vader. The fantaftic inftitutions, like thofe of the ancient Perfians, pr ■-
wtnt the Hindoos from forming a maritime power ; and even the fmail
fleets of Siam and Pegu, which follow the more libera^ doftrines of
Boodh, feem unrivalled in the hidory of Hindoftan.

Manners and customs.] The manners and cuftoms of the Hin,
doos are intimately blended with their religion, and are univerfally limilar
with a'few exceptions in mountainous and other peculiar diltrifts. One
of the moft fmgular begins to expire, that of giving the living widow
to the fame flames with her huftand's corpfe. The ancients reprefent
the Bramins as accuftomed to terminate their own lives on funeral piles
lighted by themfelves. But by what refinement of cruelty this cuftom
'was extended to involuntary and helplefs females has not appeared ; per.
haps the caufe was to enforce the prefervation of their hufband's health
by making their life depend on his. But this and other monftrous in.
ftitutions of the Bramins are treated with lenity and even refpeft by
many authors, who feem to inherit the Greek aftonifhment at thefe fanatics.

The other manners and cuftoms of the Hindoos have been illuftratedby
many travellers. As foon as a child is born it is carefully regiftered in its
proper caft, and aftrologers are confulted concerning its deftiny ; for the
Hindoos, like the Turks, are ftri6l predeftinarians. A Bramin impofestlie
name. The infant thrives by what we would call negleft ; and no where
are fcen more vigour and elegance of form. The boys arc generally taught
reading and writing by Bramins, but the girls are confined at home till
their twelfth year *. Polygamy is pradifed, but one wife is ackoow.
ledeed as fupreme. It is well known that the Hindoos are extremely
abftemieus, and wholly abftain from animal food and intoxicating 11.

?[Uor6 ; yet if we judge from the fanatic penances, fuicides, and other
uperilitious frenzies, no where on earth is the mind fo much difor-
dered. The houfes are built of earth or bricks, covered with mortar,
and fometimes with excellent cement, with no windows, or only fmall
apertures. There is generally only a ground floor, inclofing a court,
with a fmall gallery fupported by flight wooden pillars. The amufc.
ments confift of religious proceffions ; but though dancing girls abound,
yet theatrical exhibitions do not feem fo common as in the countries
farther to the eaft.

Languages.] The general ancient language of Hindoftan is believed
to have been the Sanfcnt, an original and refined fpeech, compared by
Sir Wilham Jones with the Greek and Latiii. The more common
dialefts are chiefly the following f :

1. That of Kandia in the interior of Ceylon, which is faid nearly
to refemble the Sanfcrit.

2. The Tamulac ufed in the Deccan, or fouthern part, in Madura,
Myfore, and fome parts of the Malabar coaft.

3. The Malabar language, extending from cape Comari to the moun.
tain Illi, which divides Malabar from Canara.

4. That of Canara which extends as far as Goa.

** ^. The Maraflida language. It is prevalent throughout the whole
country of the Marajbdi, who are very improperly called Marattat.

«* 6. The Talenga, an harmonious, nervous, mafculine, copious, and
learned language, which, like the Sanicrit, has fifty-two charaders;

• Sof t TOva;»p to tlift V.dii Indies Iiy Fra. PitoUtvo da Sao B•rt61^mP'1, i fioo, Rvo, The
Wrtlwr's I»y MiBC wu Wcfdin, oil AuIUian. f WefJin, 317.

and

HINDOSTAN.

425

jnd thefe are fufficient to write the latter. It is fpoken oti the coaft of
Orixa« in Golconda, on the river Kiflina, and as far as the mountains of
Balangat. All thefe languages have their own alphabets ; fo that in
every province you muil n\ake yourfelf acquainted with a diftinA kind of
chara^ersi if you wifh to exprefs your thoughts in the diale£l common in
each.

« 7. The common Bengal language : a wretched dialeft, corrupt
in the utmoft degree. It has no V, and inllead of it employs the B. it
isfpoken at Calcutta, and in Bengal on the banks of the Ganges.

« 8. The Devangaric or Hindoftan language, called by fome Nagru,
Nagari, and alfo Devanagari. It is fpoken at Benares, at Venares,
and confirts of fifty-two chara^lers, with which the Sanfcrit may be
writtan.

« 9. The Gu/aratic, which has been introduced not only into the
kingdom of Guzarat, but alfo at Barfche, Surat, Tatta, and the neigh-
bourhood of tiie Balangat mountains. Its charaders are little different
from thofe of the Devanagaric.

« 10. The Nepalic, which is fpoken in the kingdom of Nepal, and has
a great fimilarity to the Devanagaric.''*

Liter ATURi^] The literature of Hindoilan doubtlefs contains feveral
valuable and curious monuments ; but their epochs are extremely uncer-
tain. There feems no chronology of authors who fucceffively quote or
mention each other ; and there is not even any great land mark, like the
age of Confucius among the Chinefe. Hence little elfe than confufion
and contradidion are to be found in the numerous accounts publiihed of
Hindoo literature.

The moft important books are the Vedas ; there are alfo fome epic
poems which pretend to contain fragments of genuine hiftory. ** The
mod ancient called Ramayana, was written by Valmici ; and next in cele-
brity is the Mahabarat of Vyafa, who is faid to have been the author of
fome Puranas, and of courfe could not have flouriihed above feven hundred
years ago ; and it is probable that the more ancient poem cannot afpire
to a much higher date. It is a great fmgularily that the old Hindoo
gnnts of land, many of which have been tranflated and publiOied, are
extremely long, and in a ftrange poetical or inflated llyle, fome of
the compound words confiding of not lefs than one hundred and fifty
fyllables ! When we compare thefe fingularities with the brevity and
elearnefs of the Greek and Roman infcriptions, and the unbiafled dic-
tates of plain good fenfe, we are led to conclude that the Hindoos
are the puerile flaves of a capricious imagination. And though fome
tranflations of their bell works have already appeared, they have not
acquired the fmallell degree of European reputation ; and have very
little interefted a few curious inquirers, "though eager to he pleafed. To
compare fucli tedious trifles, alike deftitute of good fenfe, vigorous ge-
nius, or brilliant fancy, with the immortal produftions of Greece or
Rome, would only confirm the idea, that the climate itfelf impairs
judfrmcnt while it inflames imagination.

The Hindoos are ignorant of the Chinefe art of printing, nor have we
any rules for dotermining the antiquity of their manulcripts. To an
cxaft inquirer this would nave been the firft topic of invefligation : but it
iias on the contrary been completely negleftcd. We have merely the
hold afTertions of Bramins, early imbibed by European credulity, in-
ilead of fucceflive arguments and proofs.

Ancient civiMZATioN'.J The ancient civilization of the Hindoos has
probably been greatly exaggerated both with regard to its degree, and

the

*'^\

426

HINDOSTAN.

the length of its duration, they are neverthelefs at prefent in general
highlv civilized) and of the moft gentle and amiable manners, Bnt per.
haps m no art or fcience are they equal to the Chinefe or Japanefe • and
in moil are confeiTedly greatly inferior.

Universities.] The chief univerfity in the north is that of Benares
a mod celebrated and ancient fchool> now included in the Englifh pof'
feiiions. In the Deccan the academy of Triciur, on the Malabar coaft is
alfo in great repute. " At Cangtburamt in Carnatst there is ftill a cele.
brated Brahman fchool, which according to the teftimony of Ptolemy
cxifted in the firll century of the chrillian era ; and its members are
certainly equal in celebrity to the Brahmans of Fenaret, or Benatet *.
It is to be hoped that our recent acquifitions in the fouth will lead
to the difcovery of new literary trcafures in that quarter, where it is
to be expeftcd tliat native knowledge is more pure and perfeft than
in the north, where it was fo long trampled under foot by the Ma>
hometan conquerors.

Inland navigation.] With rcfpeA to inland navigation, Hindoftan
forms a ilriking contrail with China. In the fourteenth century Feroz III.
of the Patan dynafty, ordered fome (hort canals to be dug in the neigh-
bourhood of Delhi ; and had an intention as is faid of uniting the Ganges
wi^ the Indus, or Setlege. This intended canal, wliich would not have
been above one quarter the length of the great cSnal of China, has been
praifed as a grand and wondernjl defign ; afufficient proof of the great
inferiority of the Hindoos, and their Mahometan victors, iu the folid and
ufeful arts.

Manufactures.] The manufaftures of Hindoftan hrive been cele-
brated from early antiquity, particularly the muHins and other fabrics
from cotton. Piece goods, as we call them, are mentioned by the author
of the Periplus, and other ancient writers, who praife the manufafture
and the beautiful colours with which it was dyed. The Hindoos, in the
time of Strabo, were alfo noted for elegant works in metals and ivory.
Nor is Hindoftan celebrated at this day tor sny manufacture, except thofe
of -muflins and calicoes, the other exports ccynfifling of diamonds, raw
filks, with a few wrought filks, fpices, drugs, &c. The fhawlsofCafli-
mir are alfo defervedly efteemed j being there woven from a material
chiefly fupplied by Tibet. Painting is in its infancy ; and they are
ilrangers to fhade and perfpedUve. Sculpture is as little advanced as
paintmg, the defign and execution being alike bad ; yet the temples are
lometimes majeftic and folemn. In molt trades very few tools are em.
ployed. The fimple loom is reared in the morning under a tree, and
carried home in the evening.

Native products.] But it is the abundance of native produfts,
which has in all ages rendered Hindoilan the centre of great trade. Dia<
monds, and fome other precious ilones, are produces almoil peculiar ; as
vrell as many fpices, aromatics, and drugs. In modern times the tea and
porcelain of China, and other oriental articles, have been vaguely included
among thofe of the £ait Indies. But rice, fugar, and many articles of
luxury are produds of Hindoftan.

Climate and seasons.] The climate and feafons are confiderablv
diverfiiied by difference of latitude, and local fituation. Yet in general,
though the northern Alps of Tibet be covered with perpetual fnow, there
18 fome fimilarity of climate through the wide regions of Hindoilan. In
Bengal the hot, or dry feafon begnis with March, and continues to the

• WeWin, 383.

■,.y

end

HINDOSTAN.

*37

end of May, the thermometer fomctlmes rifing ttJ xio'': this intenfe at
is fomctimes interrupted by violent thunder llorms from the north-^ <l,
the feat of the grand Alps of Afia. The rainy feafon continues fi .,m
June to September : the three lafl months of the year are jjenernlly plea-
iaiit: but exceflive foirs often prevail in January and Ft^bruary. The
perjodical rains are alio felt in Sindetic Hindoftan, except in Caflimir,
where they feem to be excluded by the furrounding mountains. In the
reft of Hindoftan they almolt deluge the country, defcending like cata-
rafts from the clouds, and the Ganges and other rivers fprcad to a wide
extent, the inundation ceafing in September. By the latter end of June
the Ganges has rifeh fifteen feet and a half, out of thirty-two, which is
the total of its overflow *. In the mountains the rainy feafon begins early
in April ; but rarely in the plains till the latter end of June. ** By the
latter end of July all the lower parts of Bengal, contiguous to the Ganges
and Burrampooter, are overflowed, and form an inundation of more than
jliundred miles in width ; nothing appearing but villages and trees, ex^
cepting very rarely the top of an elevated fpot (the artificial mound of
(ome deferted village) appearing like an ifland.'*

In the fouthern divifion of the chains of the Gauts, or mountains of
Malabar and Cororaandel, fupporting the high table land in the centre,
intercept the great mafs of clouds ; and the alternate S.W. and N.E.
winds, called the Monfoons, occafion a rainy ieafon on one fide of the
mountains only, that is, on the windward fide. Yet it appairs that during
the firlt part of the rainy monfoon, in May and June, on the coaft of
Malabar, a confiderable quantity of rain falls in the upper region or table
landof Myfore. The monfoon is from the N.E. from Oftober to April;
and from May to September iii the oppofitc diredlion. The rainy feafon
on the coaft of Coromandel is with tiie N. E. monfoon ; and on that of
Malabar with the S.W. : in general, March, April, May, and June are
the dry months.

Hence, while in Tibet the winter nearly correfponds vnth that of S wit-
zerland and the rell of Europe, in the whole extent of Hindoftan, except
in Caftiniir, there can hardly be faid to be a veftige of winter, except the
thick fogs of our November : and exceflive rains, or exceflive heats, form
the chief varieties of the year.

Gkneual face op the country. 3 The afpeft of t'.iis wide country
is extremely diverfified ; but in general there are no mountains of any
confiderable height, the highell, Gauts in the fouth not being eftimated at
I above three thoufand feet. The frontier mountains of Tibet are of fmall
elevation, compared with thofe of the interior of that country ; and the
wonderful extent of Hindoftan confifts chiefly of extenfive plains, fertilized
by numerous rivers and ftreams, and interfperfed with a few ranges "of
bills. The periodical i-ains and intenfe heats produce luxuriance of vege-
tation, almoft unknown to any other country on the globe ; and the
variety and richnefs of the Vegetable creation delight the eye of every
I fpeftator.

Soil.] The foil is fometimes fo excellent as to confift of black vege*
Itablc mould to the depth of fix feet. Rice is the chief grain } and oa the
Idryfandy lands of the coaft of Coromandel great induftry is difplayed in
Iffatering it f,

Maiae and the fugar-cane are alfo favourite produ^s. Extreme at-
Itention to manure feems far from being fo general as in China or Japan ;
Hr perhaps ii it neceflary. The cmtivatioQ of cotton is alfo widely

t Rranell, 349.

t Sonnemt) L 106.

' diffufed ;

42^.

HINDOSTAN.

diffufcd; and this plant particularly thrives on the dry coall of Core.
mandel.

Rivers.] In defcribing the large and numerous rivers of Hindoftan
the Ganges and Indus fliall be firft confidered, with their chief tributary
itreams ; and a fhort account of the principal rivers in the central part
fhall be followed by thofe in the fouthern divifion. This arrangement
naturally arifcs from the four grand divifions formerly mentioned.

The Ganges mull ftiU be confidered as the facred fovereign of the
Hindoo rivers, an attribute not infringed by the recent difcovery of the
Burrampooter. It receives fuch a number of important tributary ftreams
that its magnitude exceeds what might have been expedled from the'
comparative length of its courfe ; which may, however, be eftimated at
about, fourteen hundred Britiih miles, while the Hoan>ho of China hat
been computed at two thoufand, and the Kiatuku at two thoufand two
hundred. The fource of the Gangesjemains a curious objeft of invefti.
gation ; nor can much reliance be placed on its delineation in the map of
Tibet by the Chinefe lamas, publiflied by Du Halde, and followed br
all fucceeding geographers. Tieffenthaler has laid down the latitude of
the noted Gangoutra, or Cow's mouth, in lat. 33"", being a celebrated
catarafi where the Ganges is faid to pafs through a vafl cavern in a
mountain, falUng into a Targe bafon which it has worn in the rock. At
Hurdwar, about two hundred and eighty miles to the fouth of the Cow's
mouth, (if this laft be not a dream of the fabling Hindoos,) the Ganges
enters the wide plains of Hindoftan ; and purfues a foHth-eait dire£lion by
the ancient city of Canoge, once the capital of a kingdom, by Allahabad
Benares, Patna, &c. till dividing into many grand and capacious mouthi,
it forms an extenfive delta at its egrefs into the gulph of Bengal. The
extreme mouths of the Ganges are interfered with ifles, called the Sun.
derbunds, overgrown with tall bamboos and other luxuriant vegetation,
the impenetrab^ haunts of the royal tiger and other beafts of prey. On
the weftemmoft outlet of the Gangips, called the Hoogley, or Ugh, Hands
Calcutta* the capital of Britifli Hindoftan. This, and the moft eaftem
which receives the Burrampooter, are the wideft and moft important
branches.

The nobleft tributary ftream of the Ganges is the Burrampooter, or,
as ftyled by the people of Afam, the Burrampoot, being the Sam-
poo of the Tibetans. The courfe of the river, and its jiinftion with
the Ganges, were firft afcertained by Major Rennell. This noble river
runs for four hundred miles through the Britifh territory ; and for the laft
60 miles before its jun£lion with the Ganges is from four to five miles
wide. On their union below Luckipour, they form a body of running
frefh watef, refempling a gulph of the fea, interfperfed with iflands,
fome of which rival m fize and fertihty our I A: of Wight. In the
mouths of the Ganges, and the Megt a, or Burrampoot, the bore or
fudden influx of the tide will rife inftantaneoufly to the height of from
five to twelve feet ♦. Between Bengal and Tibet the Burrampoot paffes
through the country of Afam, a region hitherto little known, and which
may be here briefly defcribed. It is divided into two part^ by the
river ; the northern being called Uttercul, and the fouthern Dachmcul.
The mountains of Duleh and Landa divide Afam from Tibet f . Afam
is interfedled by feveral ftreams which run into the Burrampoot ; among
which is trie Donee in the fouth, the environs of which prefent fieldi,
groves and gardens. Among the products are many kiad» of valuable

•Rennell, dsa.

>-■•'■•

.-ii'-' f Af.'Rer.u. 171.

at.

fruitii

HINDOSTAN.

429

fruit«» with pepper, cocoa nuts, fugar, and ginger. T\ic filk is faid to
equal that of China ; nor are the mulk deer unknown. The northern
province, Uttercal, furpafles the fouthern in ,tillage and population :
jold and lilver are faid to be found in the fand of the rivers, and to
|jfni(li employment to many of the natives. The Hindoo tenets are not
known by the geijprality, though there be fome Bramins, and the vulgar
dialeA fomewhat refembles that of* Bengal. The raja, or king, refides
jt Gl>argon» the capital, which by this account ftands on the fouth of
the great river : it is fenced with bamboos, and has four gates conrtrufted
of ftone and earth. The palace, public faloon, &c. feem rudely to re-
femble thofe of the Birmans. The natives are a ftout and brave race ;
and repeatedly foiled the invafionsof the Moguls. ^

The courfe of the Burrampoot is fuppofed to be nearly equal in length
to that of the Ganges. The fources of thefe great rivers are ftatcd to
be very near, yet they feparate to the diftance of more than a thoufand
miles, and afterwards join in their termination.

The mod important tributary ftreams which fwell the Ganges are the
Gagnii alfo called Sarjoo, (a great part of whofe courfe, like thofe of the
Cola and Teefta, belong to Tibet) ; the Jumna or Yumena, which re-
ceives many confiderable rivers from the fouth, particularly the Chumbul
and the Betwa ; and laftly the Soan.

The Gagra, after purfuing a long courfe from the mountains of Tibet,
pervades the province of Oude.

The Jumna rifes from the mountains of Sirinagur, purfuing nearly a
parallel courfe to the Ganges on the welt, as the Gagra does on
the eaft ; but its comparative courfe has not exceeded five hundred
miles when it flows into the Ganges at Alhhabad. By receiving
numerous and extenfive ftreams from the fouth, the Jumna contri-
butes greatly to increafe the breadth of Gangetic Hindoftan ; and
the Chumbul, which joins the Jumna, is it£elf fwcUed with many tribu-
tary dreams.

the Soan is faid to fpring from the fame lake with the Nerbuda
(which flows in an oppolite direftion to the gulph of Cambay), and
joins the Ganges not far below its union with the Gagra. Several
ftreams of fmaller account fall into the Hoogley, or weilern branch of
the Ganges.

The Indus, and its confluent ftreams, form the next objedt. This
celebrated river is by the natives called Sende, or Sindeh, and in the
original Sanfcrit Seendho. It is alfo called Nilab, or the Blue River.
The fource, like that o£ the Ganges, remains unknown, From the map
oflfleniefF, 1777* it appears that the chain of mountains which gives
fource to the Amu or Gihon on one fide, and on the other to the rivers
of Little Bucharia, i^ that of the Belur Tag or Cloudy mountains ;
from the eaftern fide of which chain the Indus feems to arife. Its
comparative courfe may be about a thoufand Britifh miles, when it forms
a delta in the province of Sind^, entering by many mouths into the
lodiaa fea.

The tributary rivers of the Sinde chiefly join it in the northern half of
its courfe, where they form the Panjab, or country of five rivers. From
the weft run into the Indus the Kameh, with its tributary ftreams, and
the Comul ; from the eaft the Behut or Hydafpes ; the Chunab or Ace-
finas ; the Rauvee or Hydraftes : and the Setlege or Hefudrus, with a
tributary ftream on the weft, the Hyphafis : the Panjab country being
on the eaft of the Sind£. The whole of this part of Hindoftan is little
known to the moderns ; and it is uncertain whether the Caggar, a confi.

I dcrable

430

HINDC5TAN.

derable and diftant river to the eaft, join the Sind^, or fall into the cri,l i
ofCutch*. ^"'1^''

Having thus briefly dcfcribed the irioft: important rivers in the tw
firft grand divifions of Hii\do(tan, thofc of the central part mnrt
next be confidered, being chiefly the Pudda, Nerbudda, and Taptee
on the weft ; and on the eaft the Subanreeka, or Subunieka, which
joins the fea about thirty miles io the weft of that mouth of the
Ganges called the Hooglcy, or, more properly, from a city on its
ihore, the Ugli. The Subunreka being here confidered as the N.E
boundary of Central Hiiidoftan, is followed by the Bramnee tlij
Mahanaaa ; and after paiTing the little ftreams of the Sircars by the
Godaveri, 4he laft and moft important ftream of central Hindoftan.

The GcJaveri rifes at Trimbuck Naflbr, in the weftem Gauts, iro'e
properly called the Suckhien mountains, from fevcral fources, about
feventy miles to the N.E. of Bombay f. This great river was little
known in Europe till recent times ; and is alfo called the Ganga, a Hindoo
term for a river in general, though applied by pre-eminence to the
Ganges J. About ninety miks from its egrefs into the f(^a,the Goda-
very receives a large river, the Bain Gonga, which pervades immenfe
teak forefts, in a lingular wild couatrv inhabited by favages in the cen.
tre of Hindoftan, and as yet little known or explored. The Baia
Gonga was firft difcovered to Europeans by the late Colonel Camac
its courfe being about four hundred miles, while that of the Godaveri
may be feven hundred. This laft great river, like another Nile cr
Ganges, fertilizes the country; and from the benefits which it confers,
is eueemed facred. Befides the Bain, or Baun Gonga, it receives
many tributary ftreams, as the Burda, and others from the north ; and
from the foulh a circuitous large river, the Munzora» which pafles by
Beder.

The next in confequence, in the central divifion of Hindoftan, is the
Nerbudda, which may be called a folitary ftream, as it receives fo few
contributions. Its courfe is almoft due weft, and about equal to that of
the Godaveri. The Taptee, which paffes by Surat, is alfo a coniiderablc
river, about four hundred miles in length. . Vo the foutli of this river the
fuperior elevation of the Suckhien mountains, or weftern Gauts, diffukj
all the rivers towards the call.

In the arrangement here followed, the Deccan, or moft foutlicrn part
of Hindoftan, is confidered as bounded and enriched by the Kittna, and
its tributary ftreams. The Kiftna, a facred river, rii'cs at IValifur, in
the chain ot Sukhien, not far to the fouth uf Prona, and forms a delta
near Mafulipatam, after a comparative courfe of about five hundred
Britilh miles. This river rivals any Indian ftream, in the fertility dif.
fttfed by its inundations ; and the richcft diamond oines in the world are
in the nciglibouring hills to the north. ITic chief tributary ftreams in
that quarter are the Beema ; palfing near tlw diamond mines of Villa-
pour, and the Muzi, or Muufli, by thofe of Golconda. But the moll
confiderable river joins the Kiftna from the fouth, being the Toonibud*
dra of Rennell's laft map, the Tunge-badra of D'Anvilw ; on the bank}
of which have been recently difciofed many populous provinces and
flourifhing towns.
To the fouth of the Kiftna appear the Pcnnar, the Foliar, and abore

* M^or Rennell'i racellent map tniy hers he comptreJ with that cf Da la RocLnv^
pubUfhrd by Fadeii 17II8| wUkh U well CKe<.-i>ti>d, amU'(iriii>iU<(l with grCat vait.
t Af.R«f.v. t. >. " - : RcBHell, a«4. . WW- .. .

• ■ -all

HINDOSTAN.

43«

all the Caveri, another large and facred ftream, which pafles by Serin-
ffapatam, the capital of, Myfore, and forms a wider delta than any other
louthern river, when it enters the fea, after a courfe of about three
hundred miles. Tlie Caveri in general pervades a country in which
public monuments, unequivocal marks of civilization and opulence,
are more common than in the northern parts of Hindoftan *. As the
courfe of the Caveri is comparatively (hort, its tributary ftreams are
unimportant.

Lakes.] Such are the principal rivers in this extenfive portion of
Alia. The lakes feem to be few. Rennell mentions that of Colair,
during the inundations about forty or fifty miles in extent, and a confider-
able piece of water in all feafons, lying about midway between the Go-
davery and Kiftna, in the nev^foil gradually formed by the inundations of
thefe rivers, about twelve Britiih miles to the north of Mafulipatam.
That of Chilka bounds the Britifh Sircars on the north, beine a kind of
a dk creek communicating with the fea. The lake of Puucat is of a
ftmilar kind. One or two lakes may alfo be traced in the vicinity of the
Ganges and the Indus. The country of Calhmir is fuppofed to have
been originally a large lake, as reported in the native traditions ; and a
confiderable expanfe of water ftiU remains in the northern part of this
delightful country, called the lake of Ouller or Tal, being, about fifty-
three Britifh miles in circuit.

Mountains.] The mountains cliiefly celebrated by the Hindoos
may be faid to be only vifible from their country, being the fouthem
chain of the Tibetian Alps, covered with perpetual fnow. Hence
they are called Himmala, from a word denoting Snow. This name
may perhaps be the fourcc of the Imaus of the ancients. Ptolemy not
only Jefcribcs an Imaus as running north and fouth, or the Belur Tag
of the RufHans and Tatars, with its ridges to tlie weft, now calluu
Argun, Ak Tau, Sec. but another Imaus pafling £. and W., to the N.
of riindoflan.

As the northern Imaus of Ptolemy is clearly the Belur Tag, fo hit
fouthern Imaus may be fafcly regarded as the Himmala of the Hindoos*
whicii may be admitted to have been known to the ancients, who were no
ilrangers to the rich Gangetic regions of Hindoilan.

It muft be obfervcd, however, that there is no fmall confufion, even
in the mofl recent delineations, of the Indian ranges of mountains*
or rather hills, and their exa£t denominations. The ridges to the fouth
of Nipal and Bootan are far inferior in height to the Himmala, or
fnowy ridge ; nor can we much depend on the Tibetian names given by
Du Halde. An equal defeft attends the mountains from Sirinagur to
Cafhmir. The ridge of Kuttore is properly on the north of that pro-
vince, running ealt and welt ; and id followed by the Hindoo Koh of
oriental geographers.

The mountains to the weft of tlic Indus, or on the Perfian frontier,
feem to be the Becius and Parvetius of Ptolemy ; but the modern names
are little known.

In Major Rennell's excellent map of Hindoftan the ridges are rather
inferted in the minute and antiquated manner of D'Anville, than treated
with a bold and fcientiiic dilcrimination. The following M contain!
nod of the names there to be fotutd. ^

The Chalifcuteli hills, between the weftcrn dcfcrt and the Sctlege,

Tk Alideck mountains, above Guiurat.

•f-« -

• Rctwtll, 97 »•

Tht

43*

HlKDOSTAN.

The mountains of Gomaun, or Kemaoon, called alfo thofe of Sewalic.
This extenlive ridge feems to form the exterior barrier of the Tibetiaii
Alps in Sirinagiir, &c.

The mountains of Himmaleh, N. of TaiTifudon. The other Tibetian
mountains feem to be from Du Halde»

In Bengal are feveral ridges of hills without names, which is the cafe
even with the chain on the N. W. of the Sircars.

The L iick.no w hills, at the fource of the Mahanada.

Thofe of Gondwanah, running parallel with the Nerbudda for a fpace
and then turning fouth to Narnalla.

The ridges near the Chumbul are alfo without name.

The Grenier mountains in Guzarat.

The Shatpoorta hills, between the Nerbudda and the Taptee.

On the other fide of the Nerbudda there are alfo remarkable parallel
ridges, giving fource to many rivers, but namclefs.

Even the Gauts are laid down with little care ; and the important dia-
mond mountains of Golconda and Vifiapour are not mentioned.

A ridge called the Bundeh mountains runs parallel to the Gudavery oa
the fouth, but at a confiderahle diilance from that river.

Hence it will be perceived that the Hindoo orology is fingularly
imperfeft : but what is to be expefted from a people who confound
terms fo far as to call a mountain a Gaut or a Pafs ? The Gauts, pe-
culiarly fo called, are ranges which run along the weftern and eaftern
coaih of the Deccan. The former is by the natives called the mountaini
of Suckhien *.

Thefe chains rife abruptly on each fide, but particularly the weft,
forp'.ing as it were enormous walls, fupporting a high terrace or tabk'
land in the middle. This elevated traft pafling through a great part
o» the Maratta territories to the north of Myfore, is termed in general
the Balla Gaut, through its whole extent, while low pafics are called
Payen-Gaiitf. Oppofite to Pauiany, on the weftern coalt, there is a
break or interruption of the mountains, about fixtecn miles in breadth,
chiefly occupied by a forclt ; exclufive of this gap the mountains of
Sukhien extend from Cape Comorin to Surat, at the diftance of from
fort y to f^' vcuty miles from the flaore if . Their eft"e£t on the feafons has beon
already mentioned ; and it ceafes at Surat, where tiie S. W. wind carries
uninterrupted moiilure over Hindollan. The high terrace in the middle
of the Deccan receives little rain ; and the coail of Coromandel, which
receivos its rain from the N. £. monfoon, is alfo of a dry foil, as already
defcribed.

The fandy defert on theeaft of the Indus muft not be omitted, extend-
ing in lengtii between four and five hundred Britiih miles, and in breadth
from fixty to one hundred and fifty. Of this great defert the accounts are
imperftdl ; but it is Itylcd that of Agimere, and feems to have been known
to Herodotus. Such wide expanfcs of barren fand form features peculiar
to :\in\ and Africa.

FouESTS.] Of this cxtenfive portion of A fia a great part remaining
in primitive wildin-l's, there aro large foreils in various quarters, particu-
larly near the muuth of the Ganges, and in the wide unexplored rrgions
on the wett of the Sircars. 1 hole foreiU furpafs in cxubrrancv of
vegetation any idea which Europeans can imagine; creeping plants of

• Af. ni'f.v. 1.5, t ReiineU, cxxvii.

I Uiiniicll, 076, and hit map of the Djccan leuo, in which the fouthcrn mounuint
art Mi'U cKi'tfli'ud.

prodigioui

HINDOSTAN,

433

igtous fize and length, extended from tree to tree, forming an
impenetrable gloom, and a barrier, as it were facred to the lirll myltcries
of nature.

BoTANvJ The general ohfcrvatii as which were made on India beyond
ihe Ganges, apply with ftill greater propriety to the botany of Hindof-
taii. A more fertile foil, and a climate better adapt(?d to the mod pro-
fufc luxuriance of vegetation than the well-watered tra^Els in this vaft
peninfula, cannot polfibly be found in any part of the known world.
The liberality with which nature has fcattered over this favoured country
the choicefl of thofe plants that contribute to the fullenance, the conve-
nience, and elegance of human life, is boundlefs and almoil without
competition : double harvells, two crops of fruit from many of the
trees, and from moft of tire reft a copious and regular fu'pply during ths
CTcater part of the year, are the bafts (hat fupport its fwarming popula-
lion, while its timber of every quality, its plants of medicinal virtue, its
numerous and cxquifite dyeing drugs, and itr. cottons and other vegetable
articles of cloathing, offer lo its inhabitants the materials of enjoyment
and civilization.

Tiie molt diftinguifliing feature in tropical landfcapes is the multitude
of lofty trees of the palm kind ; all thefe rife with a limple trunk to a
confiderable height, terminated by a tufl of large leaves, and wholly def-
titute of branches except while they are in fruit : of thefe many fpecies
are natives of India. The cocoa nut-tree, perhaps the moft widely dif-
fiifedof any, is found in abundance on the coafts of Malabar and Coro-
mandel, : its fruit fupplies an agreeable nutriment, and the fibrous cover*
ing of the nut is manufadlurcd into the moft elaftic cables that are known.
Thearcca palm is another of this family, of rare occurrence in a truly wild
Rate, but cultivated over all India for its nuts, which, mixed with the
laves of the betel pepper and a little quick-lime, are in general reqiieil fop
chewing as tobacco is ufed in Europe. The fmaller lan-palm (borafl'ua
ilabclliforrnis) is diftinguifhed for its broad fan-fliaped leaves, which are
ufed for writnig en and for thatching ; its wood is in high eftecm for raf-
ters; and of its juice the beft palm toddy, the common dillilled fpirit of
the country, is made. This, although a large tree, is far inferior to the
greater fan palm (corypha umbraculiferaj which abounds on the lower
mountains of the Carnatic ; each leaf of this vaft tree is capable of cover-
ing ten or a dozen men, and two or three of them are fiifficient to roof a
cottage. The moft beautiful of all, the fago palm, is alfo found here,
thoii^^ii not fo plentifully as in fome of the Indian idands. Befidcs thefe
may be mentioned the elate fylveftris, whofe f A-eet mealy fruit is the
fdvour'te repaft of the elephant ; and the plantain, dillinguifhed by its
tuft, uf broad fimple light green leaves, and its wholefon^c farinaceous
fruit.

Of the other fruit-hearing trees the number is fo great, and they are
flu the moll part fo little known, even by name, to Europeans, that only
a few of the principal need be here mentioned : thefe are the papaw fig ;
two fpecies of the genus known to butanifts by the name of eugenia, and
remarkable for the Ivveetnefs and rofe flavour of their fruit ; and the fpon-
im dulcis, whofe fwectnefs plcafartly tempered with acid, renders it
peculiarly agreeable in this hot climate. The pillaw is a tree of equal
lin);u!:irity and ufe i from its trunk and larger branches are produced
fibrous hags, fomctimes of the weight of twenty-five pounds, which are
lillal with nuts like the cheftnut, and refemhling the aLnoiid in ilavuur.
The dillcnia indica is remarkable for its beauty, and valuable for its large
poniaccuus fruit of a pure acid, and equal tu Uie white lily in fragrance,

V i The

434

HINDOSTAN.

The averrhoa carambola produces three crops of fruit in the year, and
another of the fame genus, the a. bilimbi, is in a manner covered with
large juicy berries of the fize of a hen's egg, and refemhliiig the ffrape.
The mango however is reckoned the moll exquifite of the Indian iVuitF*
and is found in confidcrablc abundance, both wild and cultivated thiuiifr)i
the whole peninfula, nor ought the elephant apple, (feronia elephantum )
to be omitted, almoft equally a favourite with the animal whofe name it
bears, and with the native Hindoos.

Of the trees whofe produce is ufod in medicine or the arts, the moil
worthy of notice are the caflia tiftula ; the tamarind ; the gamhugia, from
whofe bark exudes the gum of the fame name ; the lawrus caflia, whofe
bark is a common fubllitutc for cinnamou ; cxfalphina fappan, a red wood
ufed in dyeing ; fandal wood ; ftrychnos potatorum, the fruit of which
called the clearing nut, is in genewl ufe for clearing muddy water ; and
femiearpus anacardium, or marking nut ufcd for giving a durable black
flain to cotton. The chief timber trees are the teak, ufed efpecially for
fliip-building ; a large tree called by botaniils gyrocarpus, whofe iiroiig
light wood IS in great requeil for rafts, or catamarans ; the ebony ; tlie
ferreola, the hardeft of all the Indian woods ; and the dalbergia, a dark
grey wood with light coloured veins, very heavy, and capable of a moll
exquifite polifli ; it is much ufcd for furniture.

A few other trc^s require notice from their fizc or beauty, fuch as the
banyan tree and Indian tig ; th^ hibifcus ficulneus is remarkable by its
magnitude, an4 the profufion of its elegant bloffoms, and is of peculiar
value in a tropical climate, as hardly any infedsare found under its (hade.
The cotton tree rifes with a thorny trunk eighteen feet in circumference
to the height of fifty feet without a branch, it then throws out nume.
rous bougtis, which are adorned in the rainy feafon with purple bloflbms
as large as the open hand, and thefe are fuccecded by capfules filled with
a fine kind of cotton. The fhrubs and herbaceous plants are innumerable,
and niuUitudes would be well worth recording for their beauty or ufe, if
the nature of this work allowed an opportunity ; we cannot however omit
the indigo and the India madder, whence the beautiful colours of the
Indian chintzes are procured. The nydanthes hirfuta, and the jafminnm
^randiflorunn, boafl the mod fragrant bloifoms of the whole cad, the
former perfuming the night, and the latter fcenttng the day. T!ie
gloriofa fuperba, cecropegia candelabrum, and Indian vme, form by their
union bowers worthy of Paradife ; and the butea fuperba, a fmall tree,
by the ilriking contrail of its green leaves, its black flowerflalks, and
its large fcarlet papilionaceous blufl'oms, attra£ls with its ollctitatiuus
charms the notice and admiration of the mod incurious.

Zoology.] For an ample account of the zoology of Hindodanthe
curious reader may confult Mr, Penant's view of this country, thiH being
the peculiar province of that great naturaliil. The numerous cavalry
which form the armies of the Hindoo princes imply great numbers of
horfes ; and the breeds moil celebrated are thofe of Lahore and Turkif<
tan» but the grandees are fupplied from Periia and Arabia. The itife.
rior breeds, though ugly, arc &£live, and in fome regions there are poneys
not exceeding thirty mchcs in height *. The hi>ries of Tibet, generally
pyed, are often ufed in Gangetic Hindollan. The animal called the
liknld mule, and the wild afs, fometimes pal's in jierds to the northern
mountains, from the centre of Afia and the defert of Gobi.

The cattle of Hindoilan are numerous, and uft^n of u large fi/e, with

f Ptiuiaot, vvl. ii. 309.

a huQch

HINDOSTAN.

ASS

a hunch on the (houlders. The (hecp are covered with hair iiiftead of
ffool, except in the moft northern parts.

Antelopes abound, of vaiious beautiful kinds, particularly that called
tk Nilga»> which is of a conliderable fize. Bernier, the moft intelligent
of travellers in India, gives an account of the chafe of the antelopes by
means of the hunting leopard, trained as in Perfia to this fport *.

The Arabian camel, or that with a fingle hunch, is not unfrequent
about Patna. The elephant has been frequently defcribed ; the ufual
lieijrht of this intellig;ent animal is about ten feet. Apes and monkeys
abound in various regions of Hindoftan ; and the orang outang is faid to
be found in the vail forefts on the W. of the Sircars. The dogs are gene-
rally of the cur kind, with ffiarp, ereft ears, and pointed nofes ; the
fmalleft fize is that kept by the Pariars, or degraded poor, rendered
doubly miferable by the fanatic prejudices of the abominable fyftem of
the Bramius. The other animals are are wild boars, bears, wolves,
foxes, jackalls, hyenas, leopards, panthers, lynxes : in the north, mullc
veafeis, and many other quadrupeds of inferior fize.

The lioii feems to have been always unknown in Hindoftan, where the
ancient fculptors have attempted in vain to reprefent an animal which they
never faw ; but Mr. Pennant afTures us that they are found near the cele-
brated fort of Gwalior, about Marwah, and near Caftimir. The royal
tiger of Bengal is however a far more terrible animal thui the ftouteft
lion, and was known in clafllcal times, as Seneca Uic poet calls it Gan-
"dica tigr'u, or the Gangctic tiger. Such is their fize and ftrength that
they are faid to carry off bullocks, the height of fome being faid
to be five feet, and the length in proportion. Partics*<)f pleafiire on the
ides at the mouth of the Ganges have often been (hockingly interrupted
by the fudden appearance of the tiger, prepared for his fatal fpnug,
which is faid to extend a hundred feet, not improbable when compared
with that of the cat. Such is the nature of the animal, that if difap-
pointcd in this firfl leap, he couches his tail and retreats. The rhinoce-
rns with one horn, an animal of the fwamps, alfo abounds in the Gun-
'ctic illes. Wild peacocks abound in Tibet and Ceylon ; our common
fowl are alfo found wild in the jungles, whence they are called jimgle
Hence it feems reafonablc to conclude that as thefe animals have

low

hi'cii didufcd over the civilized world from time immemorial, they mult
have pafled from Hindoftan to Periia, whence they were diftributcd to
th^ wcllcrn countries.

MixKRALOGY.j The mineralogy of Hindoftan may be opened by its
mull dilUnguiftied and peculiar produ6t, celebrated in all ages of the^
world, that of diamonds, which arc indeed alfo found in Bra/.il, but of
fir inferior quality. This fubftance is the moft hard, tranfparent, and
brilliiiiit of all minerals; and is commonly colourlefs, but is found occa-
fionally of a citron vellow, gr..*y, brown, or black. It is found in beds
t! torrents or in yellow ferruginous earth, under rocks of quartz or fand
iloiie.

The chief and moft ctlrbrated diamond mines are thofe near Viliapour
Md Golconda, both near ftreams that flow into the Kiftnain the foutherii
divifion of Hindoftan, Golconda being in the territory of the Nizam,
wiido Viliapour belongs to the Marattas f .

• Thiifi' of Tipi>no lire ill tlic Towir of London; tlicir leg! are muclj higher in pi «s
|Hi tinii ilmii tiiol'f dl' liny dtlirr I'lHik.- .niiinal.

tC.dloie, Mioihcr ili.iinund luinr, Is on ilie fuutlicrn bunk of ihr Kiflna, not far from
(uiiJavir. Ikiiiii'll, av'U.

F f 1 ' Raolcoudai

43^

HINDOSTAN.

Raolconda, a famous diamond mine in the territory of Viliapour, iibout
forty Britiili miles N.W. from the junclioH of the Beema^nd Kiftn-
feems to he the moft noted of thofe in that quarter *. A dmrift on tl •
river Mahanada, to the S. of Sumboulpour, is alfo celebrated for thi'
rich produd; as is Gandicotta, on the fouthern bank of the river
Pennarf.

The mine near the Mahanada is not the fole example of the diamond
being found to the north of the Deccan, for this mineral unexpeftcdlv
occurs, fo far north as Penna, in the territory of Bundelcund, about
fixty B. miles to the fouth of the river Jumnah, which flows into the
Ganges :{:.

Next in value to the diamong are the fapphire and the ruby, whirli are
chiefly found in the Birman territories ; but the ruby alio occurs in
Ceylon, which likewife produces an inferior kind of fapphire, the topaz
and other precious (lones.

Among the metals gold is found in the rivers which flow from Tibet
into the Ganges and Indus ; but no gold mines feem ever to have been
known in Hindollan, which has rather been celebrated for attrafting this
metal in commerce from other countries. On the other hand Tibet a
mountainous country, abounds in this precious metal. Silver feems rare
in general throughout the oriental regions, and there is no indication of
this niincrHl through all India. Thunberg mentions iron ore, and plum.
bago anujng the minerals of Ceylon ; but fays nothing ef copper which
fecuis alio little known in Hindoiian.

Medical wateus.] The natives fometimes feek for the cure of dif.
eafcs by bathing in the facrcd ftreams ; and their devotion to water in
general feems to prevent their exploring any medicinal fources. Yet
there are a fewexciptions, and feveral warm fprings are reputed facrcd.

Natuhal cuKlosiTiES.] Amoug the fmgular features of nature may
be mentioned the appearance of the provinces on the rivers, during the
fcui'on of inundation, when an accefs is opened by numerous channels to
places before inland. The ^rand afpeft of the northern mountains co.
vered with fnovv, and the wide defert on the eaft of the Indus, are alfo
grand features ; as is the high table land of Myfore, ftipported by natural
buttreflts of mountains. The Sunderbunds, and prodigious forefts, have
been already mentioned. The detached ridges of rock, fometimes
crowned with llrong fortrefles, may alfo be named among the natural
curiofities. But one of the mod -noted in the Hindoo tradition is the
Gangoutra, or fall of the Ganges, fometimes called the Cow's Mouth,
According to the report of a Bramin who pretended to have vifited the
fpot, the Ganges fprings from the peak of Cailafa, feven days journey
to the fouth of Ladac, orXatac, the capital of a fmall Tibetian princi-
pality §. This peak is about two miles to the fouth of ^anfaror; and
the river thence flows, for about feven or eight miles, when it finds a fub-
terrancan paflage, until it again emergen in the country of Kedar Nauili,
at the place called Gungowtry.

Adam's bridge is alfo a noted fable of the Bramins, for in their ftrong
imaginations and weak judgments every thing afl*umes a fabulous tinge,
It is a kind of fand bank, with fome ifles (Iretching from a promontory I
to the oppofite ifle of Ceylon : but the name of Rama has been exchanged |
\)y the Mahometans for that of Adam.

* T?pnnp|l, 253,
;'lli. 8a4,

-. I 'f..;j

Gaxcetic hin

ExTE.VT AND DIVISH

f IS. 940.

) Af. Hel'. V, 45. vi. ]01.

.♦5

CHAP,

HiNDOSTAN.

437

CHAPTER II.

Gangetic hindostan, or the countries CH THte feAS^CKS.

£xunt and Dhiftons. — Briti/h Pojejfions. — Revenue. — Government—*
/m \'. — ■ Navy. -^ Cities and Towns. — Surreunding States ; Bootan, Aj»
^n!, Slfinagui:

. «.,r,o,^».. T T^HIS Errand divifii n of Hihc!o(liin ex-
txTEST AND DIVISION...] j^ tends from the eaftcrn boundaries of

Efpcal to the country of Sirhiiid, a length of about a thoufand B. miles*
The "-reatelt breadth, from the fources of the Chumbul to the mountains
(if Sewalik, ftiav be about four hundred and fifty B. miles ; and the leaft,
on the weft of the province of Bengal, about two hundred and thirty.
Itcomprifes the provinces of Bengal, Bahar, Allahabad, Oude, Agra,
ftith part of Delhi and Agimcre, and of Malwa in the foUth ; molt o"
them equal in celebrity to any in Hindollan, and the chofen feats of the
power of the Monguls, as well as of mighty kingdoms even in clalTical
tinu'S. . '

British possessions.] Bengal, Bahaf, with Benafed, and fome other"
oiftrifts to the weft, forming the chief bafis and centre of En vlifli powei"
imhis country, it is proper firft to confider them apai't, and then pToceod
to fome account of the other provinces. The Britifh fettlements here
extend about ^50 miles length by 300 in breadth, in themfelvcs a
powerful kingdom. The native population is computed at ten or eleven
millions of black fubjefts-, exclufive of the Englifh, whofe number feenis
I not authenticated^

Revenue.] The fevctuie of thefe Britifh provinces is computed at

1 4,2io,oool. fterling ; the expence of colleftion, military and civil charges,

{fc, 2,540,000!. ; fo that the clear reveaue is 1,670,000!.*. They are

, fituated in rcfpcft to fecurity from foreign invafion ; and finer they

lifere in our pofleflion have enjoyed more tranquillity than any part of

IHindoftan has known fince the reign of Aurungzcb.

GoVERNMEMT.] The government of Bengal and its wide dependencies
I n-asfirft veiled in a governor general and a fuprcine council, confilting
Icfapreftdent and eleven counfellors ; but in 177^ thefe were reftrifted to
Ifcur, with Warren Haflings the governoi" general, who were to dircft
liU affairs, civil and military, in the kingdoms of Bengal, Bahar, and
lOrifla ; and to controul the inferior governments of Madras on tli£ E.
land Bombay on the W., with Bencoolen in the ifland of Sumatra f .
iThe court of jufficature confifts of a chief julticc and three other judces,
Iwith civil, criminal, naval, and ecclefiaflical jurifdiftion. The Hindoos'
wegoYerned by their own laws ; but it is to be wifhed that in tlicfe 5ind
lllie other Britifh poilefGons the abominable influence of the Bramma
|»pre extinguifl\ed, and the cafts totally abolifhed, as the moll fbockiiig
pbdacle to all the beft feelings and exertions of human nature that ever
m impofed by crafty fuperltition upon confummate ignorance.

ArtMY.] The military eftablifhment in Bengal is always refpeftable,

W raries according to the fituation of 'affairs. The Britifh troops are
fipported by the Sepoys, a native militia, who are accuftomed to have
|iiiinerou8 idle followers, (o that the effeftive men feldom conflitute more
bu a quartcB of the nominal army. A force of tweilty thoufand Britifh

* Rvuiellj uuff

fts

t P^otiiv.t, U, 39/«

{oUierl

438 HINDOSTAN.

folJiers miglit probably encounter and vanqulfh two hundred tlioufand
blacks or Hindoos. The decilive battle of Plafley, which fecured to us
the pofTcflion of thefe opulent provinces, was gained by the formidable
array of nine hundred Europeans *.

Cities and towns.] The chief city of Bengal, and of all the Britilh
poflefllons in Hindoftan, is Calcutta. The latitude is 22^ 33' north, and
the longitude 88^ 2S' call from Greenwich.

" Generally fpeaking the defcription of one Indian city is a defcription
of all ; they being all built on one plan, with exceedingly narrow, con.
lined, and crooked ilreets ; with an incredible number of refervoirs and
ponds, and a great many gardens interfperfcd. A few of the Ilreets are
paved with brick. The houfes are varionfly built, fome of brick, others
with mud, and a ftill greater proportion with bamboos and mats : and
thefe different kinds of fabrics, Handing intermixed with each other, form
a motley appearance : thofe of the latter kind are invariably of one ilory
and covered vwith thatch. Thofe of brick feldom exceed two floors, aiid
have flat, terraced roofs. The two former claffes far outnumber the lalt
which are often fo thinly fcattered, that tires, which often happen, do
not fomctimes meet with the obllru^ion of a brick houfe through a whole
ilreet.

" Calcutta is, in part, an exception to this rule of building ; for there
the quarter inhabited by the Englifh is compofed entirely of brick build,
ings, many of which have more the appearance of palaces tlian of private
houfc!^ but the i-emainder of the city, and by much the greateft part, is
built as above defcribed. Calcutta is the emporium of Bengal, and the
feat of the governor general of India. It is a very oxtenfive and popu.
lous city, being fuppofed at prcfent to contain at loafl 500,000 inhabi.
tants. Calcutta is fituated on the weilern arm of the Gangi-s, at about
one hundred miles from the fea ; and the river is navigable up to the
town for the largell fliips that vifit India. It is a modern city, having j
rifen on the fcite of the village of Govindpour, about ninety years ago.
The citadel is fuperior in every point, as to llrength and corredtnefs of
delign, to any fortreis in India ; but on too extcnfive a fcale to anfwer
the ufeful purpofe intended, that of holding a poll in cafe of cxtre.
mityf." I

In thi.'J grand capital of Britiih Afia the mixture of people and imnncrjj
profents a pid\urefque and intereiling fccne. The black Hindoo, thef
olive-coloured Moor, or Mahometan, contrailcd with the fair and floridj
countenances of the Eiiglifh ; and the charms of the European damfelj
receive a foil from the dark Hindoo beauties. To the luxuries of the]
Aliatic are added the elegance and fcience of the Englifh life. Kvenj
the iiewfpapcrs are 'drawn up with care and printed witli elegance ; and]
the Aliatic focicty, inilitutcd by the late admirable lif^ William Jones J
forms a noble monument of fcience in a diliant country.

The commerce of Calcutta is very great in fait, fugar, opium, filks,ani]
nnfflins, Sec. The poppy which yields the opium is particularly cuhivatcJ
in the province of Jfahar. On the Ganges are tranfportcd to Afam car<
goes of fiUt, in exchange for gold, lilver, ivory, mulk, and a particular kind
of filky cotton. The cowry ihells, ul'ed as a fmailcoin, are imported fruil

noble and fplendid r
grand mofq„e is a m;
with high minarets, a
' ^ city has bet-,, very

fcrifhed.

The city of Agimcn
J"^ greater part of that
l^^cou/ideredas the fart
Zu' .9"J^'"'»ahout
^^> with round towers

^'^hftonecthereareA

the Maldives in exchange for rice. The fine muflinit arc chicfiy fabricatei^B wth ftone : there ar > f
in the rainy feafon from May to Septemberi and, with calicoes, formS "w palace built bv S' ^
great part of the exports to Europe. H ^K Aiddenly turn 1' "'»

Iir the eallern part of the Britifh poffeflions the moll confiderable towi^ * "^^^

is Dacca) beyond the principal liream of the Ganges, but defended <

* Rcuucll, xcv.

t R«nnell, iif ^9i

HINDOSTAN.

439

the eaft by the Megna or Burrampoot. Dacca is celebrated for ma*
nufaftures of the moil delicate muflins, fo much in requeft in the E.-ro*
pean market, and which are made from the cotton of the diilritt.
It was once the capital of Bengal, and was fucceeded by Moorfiie-
dabad, a modern city. Hoogley, or Ugli, is a fmall but ancient city»
about 26 miles above Calcutta, on the grand weftern branch of the
Ganges, which thence receives its name.

Patna is the capital of the province of Bahar, fituatcd about 40O miled
N,\V. from Calcutta, being tolerably fortified, and a place of confider-
ablc trade; molt of the faltpctre in particular, exported to England, is
made in the province of Bahar. '

Benares approaches to the weftern frontier of the Britilh poflefllonSt
tlie diilrlA having been coded to the Eaft India Company in the ycatf
lyjj. It is a rich, populous, and compaft city, on the northern bank.
of tbc Ganges, about 460 miles from Calcutta. Benares, anciently
called Kali, was the moll early feat of Bramiiiical knowledge in the
north.

On leaving the Britifh poffefilons, and proceeding towards the' weft,
firlt occurs Allahabad, in the province fo called, at the confluence of the
Jiimnaand the Ganges, a city belonging to the the navab or nabob of
Oude, hut of little confequence. Not far to the S.W. of Allahabad
are the diamond mines of Penna, in the fmall detached province of
Bundnlcund.

Lucknow is the prefent capital of Oude, having fuperfeded Fyzabad,
a city on the Gogra, near the ancient city of Aiudh, which feems to
liave given name to the province. At a conCderable dillance to the
N.W. is Borilli, a fmall but noted town near the northern frontier.

The great and good emperor Acbar conllituted Agra the capital of
tlie Mogul empire about A.D. 1 566. It was then a miall fortified town,
but it looii became an extenfive and magnificent city, and has as rapidly
Joclincd.

To the N.W. of Agra, near the confines of Sindetic Hindoftan, (lands
tlie celebrated city of Dellii, the Malu>metan capital of India, faid tu be
of coiifiderable antiquity by the name of Indarput. That intelligent tra-
veller, Bernier, computes the extent of Delhi, in 1663, at three leagues,
cxclufu»e of the fortifications } and he reprefents Agra as of wider circuit.
This metropolis may be faid to be now in ruins ; but there are many
noble and fplendid remains of palaces with baths of marble *. Tl'-r
grand mofque is a magnificent edifice of marble and red frecflone,
with high minarets, and domes richly gilt. One of the quarters of
the city has bee a very thinly inhabited lince the dreadful malfacre by
Nadir Shah, in which one hundred thoufand people are faid to have
periihed.

The city of Agimcrc, or Ajlmor may bcmorc properly allotted, with
the greater part of that province, to Sindetic Hlndolhui : but Oujein may
bcconlideredas the fafthell city ill the fouth of that portion now under
Ticw. Oujein is about fix miles in circumference, furrounded by a llrong
wall, with round towers. The houfes partly brick, partly wood, covered
withliinc, tarafs, or tiles : the bazar, or market, is fpacious, and paved
withftone: there are four niofques, and fevcral Hindoo templee, with a
new palace built by Sindia. On tjie fouth runs the river Sippara, which
here fuddenly turno north, purfi'ing its courie into the Cliunibul, the lull

• .^f. iicf. iv. 4ir.

i^krge

440

HINDOSTAN-

a large river, not lefa than three quarters of a mile in breadth, at fome
<liilance from its egrefs into the Jumna *.

Turning to the eaft, the river Nerbudda may for a part be confidered
as tbc moll fout'iern Hmit of Gangetic Hindolian ; yet conccrniDg Qm.
rah, a city or town of fome note, there are no details ; and tlie other
names are too unimportant for general geography. But the noted fort
of Gwalior muft not be omitted, being a llriking < bjedl in Hindoo topo.
graphy. Tlie infulated rock on which it Itands is about four mil^s in
length, but narrow : the fides are almoft perpendicular, from two to three
hundred feet above the furrounding plain f. On the top there is a town
with wells and refervoirs, and fome cultivated land. This celebrated
fortrefs, which is about 80 miles to the fouth of Agra, was taken by
furprii'e by a few Enghrti under Major Popham in 1779. Such ifolated
forts on rocks were not uncommon in ancient India; and thatofAor.
nos is diftinguiflied in the hiitory of Alexander.

SuliROUNDiNO STATES.] Before clofing this brief delineation of Gan.
getic HindolUn, the moft large, celebrated, and beft known quarter of
that extenfive region, it may be proper to offer fome remarks on the fur-
rounding Itatesonthe E. and N. The Roflaawn of Rennell is the fame
with Aracan, being merely a Hindoo term for that country. His Coflay
is only another name for Meckley, or the country of the Muggaloos, a
people between Afamon the north and Aracan on the fouth, whofe chief
town is Munnipura :(:. Thefe caftcrn tribes of rude mountaineers are little
known, but approach to the favage ttate. Afam has been already brieflv
» defcribed in the account of the river of Burrampoot ; but to the well
open the wide and obfcure regions of Tibet.

Of Sirinagur, laid down in the maps as the moft northern frontier
country, an interelling account has recently appeared §. To the north
is fccn the lofty chain of fnowy mountains, palling in an extenfive line
frcnn call to well, at the diltancc of about 80 miles to the N. of the town
of Sirinagur.

One of the moft confpicuous fummits fs that of Hem, rifing in four or
five conical peaks ; and near its bafc is a place of Hindoo worlhip, called
Biiddrinaut. Several rivulets defcend into the Aliknundra, hereacknow.
lodged by the Hindoos as the genuine and divine Ganges. The raja and
natives are of the Hindoo faith ; but the country, a mafs of mountains,
extremely poor. The channel of the river is here not lefs than 250 yards
in breadth. The fands are wa(hed for gold ; and about forty miles to
the north of the town are two copper mineS) with one of lead about fifcy
milcB io the eaft, ,,* .■•,.,- f

CHAPTER III.

8IND15TIC niNDOSTAK ; OR THE COUNTRIES ON THE RIVER SINDEH

OR IKDVS.

I Extent. — IVeJlern Boundary of Hmdofian,— Chief Ckies and Towns.

_. . ^ ^ ^ I ^HIS part extends from the northern mountains of Calh-
iXTEKT.j ^ j^j^^ ^^j ^jjp Hindoo Koh, in the north of Cabul, to
the mouth of the Indus, a length of about 900 B. miles, and about 350
in medial breadA. BefiHes part of the provinces of Delhi and Agimcr, it

• Af. Ref. vi, 40, t Hodges, 139, J Af. Rcf, t, 823. and aoo. § lb. vi. 30i).

contains

HINDOSTAN.

44«

{ontains the extenfive province of Moultan, witli Lahore, Caihmir, Cabul*
the frontier reorion of Candahar, and that of Sindi at the mouth of the
Indus. Thefe provinces are the moft remote from the feat of Briti(h
power, and, the greater part of modern travellers having vifited Hin-
(loftaii by fea, they are lefs accurately known than any other quarter.

Tlie chief cities which occur in this extenfive region are Lahore,
Cafhmir, Cabul, Ghifni or Gafna,- Candahar, Moultan, and Tatta, in the
Sendean Delta. On the eaft of the Indus, or in Panjab, the Seiks, a
new religions feft, form the leading power ; while on the weft, and ev«n
as far as Cafhmir, the dominions of a PeHian Shah, whofe feat of empire
is at Candahar, comprize all the provinces, with feveral in the eall of
Pedia, and to him even Sindi is tributary.

This brief account of Sindetic Hindoltan fhall begin with the N.E.«
and end with the S.W., after mentioning that Aginier, which may be
reirarded as the moll eailern city of this divifion, is little remarkable, ex-
cept for a ilrong fort«efs on a hill.

Chief cities and towns.] The town of Sirhind is placed by mo-
dern maps on the river Caggar, which D'Anville bends weft into the
Indus, but Major Rennell fuppoles it to follow a detached courfe into
the gulph of Ciitch ; perhaps it may be lolt in the great fandy defert.

Lahore, now the capital of the Seiks, vras the rcfidence of the firft.
Mahometan conquerors before they advanced to the more central parts ;
and, including the fuburbs, was fuppofed to be three leagues in length.
From Lahore to Agra, near 5'oo Englifli miles, there was an avenue of
(hady trees *. The river Rauvee panes by Lahore, being the Reva of the
Hindoos, faid by them to derive its foiirce from the mountain Vindbiay
as the Sarjou from the Himar or Hiinala f.

Almoll due north from Lahore, at the fuppofed diftance of about 200
B. miles, ftands Caftimir, the capital of the delightful province fo called.
This city is f.id to bealfo called Sirinagur, having been confounded with
the town of the fame name, already mentioned in the account of Gangetic
Hindollan. To avoid the confufion ariling from identity of names, it i»
better to follow the authorities of B;;rnier and Forfter, who denominate
the capital of Caihmir by the fame term as the country. ** The city,
which in the ancient annals of India was known by the name of Siring-
nagliur, but now by that of the province at large, extends about three
miles on each fide of the river Jalum, over which are four or five woodea
bridges, and occupies in fome part of its breadth, which is irregular,
about two miles. The houfes, many of them two and three ftories high,
are (lightly built of brick and mortar, with a large'intermixture of timbef.
Onaltandingroof of wood is laid a covering of fine earth, which fhelters
the building from the great quantity of fnow that falls in the winter fea-
lon. This fence communicates an equal warmth in winter as a refrefhing
coolnefs in the fummer fealbn, when the tops of the houfes, which are
planted with a variety of flowers, exhibit at a diftance the fpacious view
of a beautifully chequered parterre. The ftreets are narrow, and
ehoakcd witii the filth of the inhabitants, who are proverbially unclean.
No buildings are feen in this city worthy of remark ; though the Kaf-
mirians boalt much of a wooden mofque called tlie Jumah Muffid, ere£led
by one of the emperors of Hindollan ; but its claim to diilindlion is very
moderate:}:." The couptry of Cafhmir is a delicious vale, extending in
an oval form, about 90 miles from S.E. to N.W. It was fubjedt to the
Z;igathai princes (a Tataric race, who fpcak the fame language with

• Kcimtll, 8i ; but otlicM only extend it to Delhi, f \A'efdin, 23 a, J Forfter, vol. ii.

442

HINDOSTAN.

the Turks), till A. D. 1 586, when it became fubjeft to the MoiitiiIr
and afterwards to the Afgans. Rice is the common product oftlie
plains ; while the furrrounding hills yield wheat, barley, and other crops.
The celebrated fliawls are only maniifadlured here ; the material beiniy
from Tibet, efpecially thofe dillri<Ss which lie at a month's journey to
the north>eaft. The price at the loom is from 26s. to 5I., and tlie re-
venue is tranfmitted to the Afgan capital in this fabric. The Cafhmi-
rians are ftout and well formed, but their features often coarfe and broad
even thofe of the women, who in this northern part of India are «f a
deeper brown complexion than thofe of fouthern France or Spain.
The drefs is inelegant, but the people gay and lively, and fond of parties
of pleafure on their delicious lake. The Afgan government lias how.
ever fomewhaticruflied their fpirit. The language is derived from the
Sanfcrit, but the Perfian is chiefly ufed in elegant compofition. Durinjr
the fummer heats the great Moguls mfed to retire to Cafhmir, where they
enjoy a cool and refreihing climate.

The wide fpace from Cafhmir to Cabul is more remarkable for nu-
merous ftreams and mountains than any other circumftance ; and the
conquerors of India preferred the fouth. Even in Cabul the moun.
tains are faid to be covered with perpetual fnow ; but the country is
diverfitied with gentle hills, fertile vales, and ftately foreils. It~ is alfo
interfef^ed by many ftreams, and, befides delicate fruits and flowers, is
abundant in other productions. Ghizni was the ancient capital of the
country, of which Candahar was then reckoned a part *. The city of
Cabal is the capital of the dominioAs of the Perfian Shah, ufually ftyled
king of Candahar, whofe dominions extend welUvard beyond the fea of
Durrah, including a great part of Corafan, with the large Perfian pro.
vince of Segiftan, bemg about 8ocj B. miles in length, by about iialf
that breadth. Cabul is ellcemed a confiderable city, in a romantic and
healthy fituation.

Ghizni or Gafna is remarkable as the feat of the firll Mahometan con.
querors of Hindoftan, whofe empire almoU correfponds with the modern
kingdom of Candahar.. r r-/ - - ■»

The city which gives name to the lail is of fmall account, except as a
.noted pafs from Perfia into Hindoilan.

Having thus reached the moll weftern frontier, and nothing far-
ther worthy of commemoration arifing on that fide of the Sindeh, it
will be proper to purfue the courfe of that grand ftrcam towards
the fouth. The fmall city and fortrefs of Attock were only built by
Acbar, i^8t ; but the vicinitv was menK)rable in ancient times as the
general paifage from India to the weft. U'he Indus, abont tweuty miles
above Attock, is a rough, rapid ftream, about a mile in breadth where
not interrupted by ifles. This fize indicates a remote fource, and many
tributary ilreams.

Moultan, the capital of (he province fu called, is about 170 B. miles
to the fouth of Attock, on the large river Chunab, not far from its junc-
tion with the Indus, along which there is an uninterrupted navigation for
veffels of 200 tons, not only to this city, but as far as Lahore f. Moul-
tan is a fmall city, and of little confequence, except for its antiquity and
(otton manufacture.

The lall remarkable city on the Indus is Tatta, the capital of the

• Rennell, 159. f •

f I)>. 178 J j'ct, f.ige 99, he mentions tht liver of Mcmitan as being diokd op
»bem ).66ii

■ L.ii . province

HINDOSTAN.

443

province of SIndi, and fituated within the Delta, the upper part of
uhich is well cultivated, while the lower, inftead of the lofty forells
of the Gangetic Siinderbunds, prefeiits only low brufhwood, fvvamps,
and lakes. In the montlis of July, Auguil, and September, when
thu S. W. monfoon brings rain in moll parts of India, the atmof-
phere is here often clouded, but no rain falls except near the fea.
At Tatta the heats are fo violent, and the winds from the fandy defert*
on the E. and N. W. fo pernicious, that many precautions are ufcd.
Tlie manufaftures of this city in filk, wool from Kerman, and cotton,
have greatly declined. The Mahometan prince of Sindi is tributary t»
Candahar.

., CHAPTER IV.

CENTRAL HINDOSTAN, OR THE MIDDLE PROVINCES.

Boundaries.— Chief Cities. — Sircars. — Ancient Trade. — Pirates,

, 'T~^HIS divifion is chiefly bounded by Gangetic
J5oUN'DARlE8.j Ji^ Hindoftan on the north, and on the weft by the
fandy defert and the ocean. The fouthern limit is the river Kiftna,
with its tributary ftream the Beeraa, while the. eaft is wafhed by the
bay of Bengal. The length E. to W. from Jigat point to Cape Pal-
miras, is little lefs than 1200 B. miles ; while the medial breadth is about
400. In it are comprehended the province of OrifTa, with part of
Golconda, Berar, Dowlahabad, Candeifh, and Guzerat, and other dif-
tiifts of inferior name ; and on the eaftern fhore are the Britifli pro-
vinces of the Sircars.

Chief cities.] In a natiii^d tranfition from the divifion of India
lall defcribed, the province of Guzerat firll prtffents itfelf, like a
large promontory, but the fliores feem little adapted to commercial
purpoles. The chief city, Amcdabad, is confiderablc, and well for-
tified, taken by the Englifli under General Goddard in 1780, re-
ftored to the Marattas in 1783. Cambay, at the diflance of more
than fifty miles, may be called the fea port of this capital ; itfelf a
handfome city, formerly of great trade in fpice, ivory, filk, and cotton
cloths ; but the harbour was impeded with fand and mud, and is now
little frequented, the trade being chiefly transferred to Surat. The fo-
vereigns of Guzerat were formerly powerful, and long withdood the?
power of the Monguls.

Surat was formerly more celebrated as the port whence the Maho-
metans of India embarked on their pilgrimage to Mecca, than for any
other circumftance, though reported to have been an important city in
ancient times. The Portuguefe feized Surat foon after their arrival in
Hindoftan ; and it was among the firft places in this country frequented
by the Englifh *.

Bombay, at a confidcrable diftance to the fouth, is a well known
Englifh fettlement, on a fmall ifland about feven miles in leng'th, con-
taining a very ftrong, capacious fortrefs, a large city, a dock yard, and
a marine arfcnalf. It was ceded to the Englifh in 1662 by the Por-

* For a recent account of Surat fee Stavorinus, vol. ii. p. 479. The inhabitants are.
faiil to be 500,000, a confideruhlR part of whom are Moors, that is .\rabs, Perfiacs,
Munguls, Turks, prufetrmg Mahnmttanifin, but reta'miisg fume I'agan riles.
t Keantll, -31,} the name is Portuguefe, liuon baliia, a good bay. ^ "

' .a . I ' tuguefe,

444

HINDOSTAN.

tu^uefe, as part of the dower of the queen of Charles II. In the fame
found, or fmall bay, are the ifles of Salfatte and Elephanta, in which are
fub terraneous temples.

On leaving the fliore and proceeding towards the eaft of central Hin-
doilan^ firft occurs the city of Burhampour, of fmall iiote. EUichpour
is of colifiderable importance,- being the chief city of Beraf. NaTpour
is the capital of the eaftern divifion of the Maratta empire, as Poona is
of the weftern, being a modern city of fmall fize. At Nagpour, which
may be called the central city of Hindoftan, the rainy feafon commences
with the S. W. monfoon.

Not far to the eaft of this city begins that extenfive and tines.
plored wilderijefs, which is pervaded by the great river Bain or Baim
Gonga, and terminates in the mountains bounding the Englifti Sircars *,
The acquifition of thefe provinces has been already mentioned in the firft
chapter. They prefent little memorable. Nor does there appear to be
any capital city, or chief town, in the Delta of the GoJavery, or through.
out the Sircars, the wide tradl of foreit on the N. W. having prohibited
inland trade or intercourfe. Mafuliputam is indeed a place of fome ac.
count : but ftanding uu the northern branch of tlie Kiltna, may be
arranged in the fouthern divifion of Hindoftan.

On turning towards the weft, few places of note arife, except Aiirun.
gabad, a modern city, deriving its name from Aurung7,eb, in whofe
time it was the capital of the Deccan, or parts to the fouth of Hindoftan
Proper. It was afterwards the metropolis of the Nizam's territory, till
the preference was given to Hydrabad. Near this city is Dowlatabad,
which gives name to the province, with a fmgular fortrefs on a peaked
rock +.

This central part of Hindoftan nearly correfponds with the Deccan,
or fouthern countrie* of the Monguls, who did not pafs the Kiftna
till a recent period ; and, inftead of i^ing the term in its juit ac
ceptation, applied 'it to the fouthern provinces of their empire.
Though formerly the feat of great power, and the wellern coafts

greatly frequented by foreign merchants of all nations, the har-
ours have fmce been impeded, and the commerce has declined,
being now chiefly tiansferred to the Ganges, which prefent fuch
fuperior advantages as amply compcnfate for the greater diftance of
the voyage. JThe Roman and Arabian fame of the weftern fhores
has vanilhed: and filence prevails in the ftreets of Barygaza or Ba*
roach, the port of the great inland city Tagara, whence the prodiitts
of India, gems, ivory, myrrh, pepper, ginger, and cotton cloths, plain
or ornamented with flowers, were, i.i the time of Arrian, exported to the
weftern world.

In later times the fouthern part of this coaft was remarkable upon
another account, being the chofen refidcrce of daring pirates. Yet
thefe freebooters were known even to Pliny and Ptolemy, being fti«
mulated in all ages by the richnefs of the commerce. They refembled
on a fmall fcale the piratical ftates of Barbary, and a fiicoeffion of
jtngrioi was contuiued till 1756, when we feized Gheriali, the priocipal
fortrefs.

* See Mr. Dlunt't journr}, abuv« quoted, fur minute details conrcrnin){ thii fur'
Merly obfiurc n-jiiou. Aliat. Rrg. ii. Vlfi — 200. 'I'lii* iiiijioriuiit journty npixuri to
Vvu Ijccn uii(l«<riakci) foltly wiili gvufrinpliical virwi; and it i« (aid that tlu> lall InHia
CuniMnjr ciiteruiii tli« higlily laudable iuUuitgu vf |)itbybitig oil dlumIji new map al
Pimludan.

t S(« the prist, B«ruouilli| i. 480.

CHAP.

HINDOSTAN, • 0|

.',,.'•.'■ .. CHAPTER V. . '

THE SOUTHERN DIVISION OF HINDOSTAN.

' ,' Boundaries*^ — Brili/h Pojfejftons. — Chief Cities and Towns.

. npHIS part, which may alfo be called the Deccaii
BoLNDABlES.J J^ ^^ South, in the moft proper acceptation of the
term, is bounled, as already explained, by the river Kiftna, and its
moft northexn fubfidiary dreams flowinpr into the Beemji. Hence it
will extend froni the latitude of Bombay to the fouthem point of
Cape Comorin, about S30 Britifli miles in length, and about 350 of me-
dial breadth. It contains nearly the whole of the province of Vi-
fiapour, and the moft important part of that of Golconda, with
the central kingdom of My lore, the long eaftern province of Carnada,
or the Carnatic, the principalities of Tanjore, Travancore, and the
Samorins of Calicut, the pepper coaft of C^nara, and other diftrifts,
of which Conam is fuppofcd to be the Kamkam which the Arabian
authors mention as adjoined to the territory of the Balhara. In this
Jivilion of Hindollan may alfo be included the ifland of Ceylon, the
coafts of which are now poflefled by the Englifti, who have fup-
planted the Dutch ; while the native princes retain the extenfive inland
parts.

British possessions.] In addition to the diftriA around Madras,
the Britilh power was in 1792 and 1799, extended over wide pro-
vinces in the fouth and weil nf Mylore, and Scringapatam the ca-
pital is alfo in our poflcflion, fo that our territories in this portion of
Hindollan only yield in extent and confequence to thofe on the Ganges.
Scringapatam is not only detached, but is by its inland fituation little
adapted for a commercial capital ; it may, tlierefore, be perhaps ex-
peAed that Calicut, an ancient and celebrated emporium, or fome other
place on that coaft, will be feleded as a metropolitan town of the new
jcquifitions.

Chief cities.] In recent times Scringapatam may be regarded
as the moft important city in this portion of Hindoftan. It is fituated
in an ifle, furrounded by the river Caveri, which is even here about
five feet deep, and runs over a rocky channel. The length of this
iOe is about four miles, and the breadth about a mile and a half ; the
wellern fide being allotted to the fortrefs, diftinguifhed by regular
oiit-works, magniticent palaces, and lofty* mofques : for Tippoo and
his father were Mahometans. Tlie environs were decorated with noble
cardens ; and among the moans of defence was what is called the hmnd
kigty confifting of evcrv thorny trpe or cauftic plant of the climate,
planted to the breadth o» .. - thirty to fifty feet. When the ftrength
of the fortifications of all kinn*,, ^"d the number of Tippoo's troops
and artillery, are confidercd, our repeated fuccefTcs muft afford a con-
vincing proof that no climate can overcome Britifh courage, condu£l, and
.pcrfeverance.

In this central territory we alfo poffefs feveral confidemble towns,
Salem and Atture in the eaft ; Dindigul, Coimbetore, Palicaud, on the
fouth ; and on the wellern coaft, Paniany, Ferokabad, Calicut, now
nearly defcrtcd, TcUicherri, Maiijgalore, and our northern poffeflion of
Cirwar is within forty miles of^the Portuguefe fettlement of Goa ;
\^lule uit the fouth we approach within a like diftance of Cochin. Of

thcfe

itrf

\4^^ -^-

446

HiNDOStAN.

thcfe places, Calicut is memorable as the firft Indian port vifited by the
Portuguefe unde Vafco de Gama, and as the feat of the Zamorins, who
at that period appear to have poflbfled the whole Malabar coall from
Goa to Cochin. •

The native rajas of Myfore, a part of whofe dominions we have
alfo fliared, were princes of fome eminence, fupplanted by the Ma-
hometan ufurpatioii of Hyder. In the Carnatic we have long held
Madras, where our anceftors fettled about 1640 ; but the fortrefs
which is ftrong, and includes a regular well-built cityi is of modern
date. Unhappily there is no port, nor is there indeed one haven for
large veflels, from the mouth of the Ganges to Trincomali on the eaftern
fide of Ceylon, which renders this laft of lingular benefit to our com,
merce. Through this wide extent of fifteen degrees, or more than
1000 Britifh miles, the coaft forms nearly an uniform line, infefted with a
dangerous furf, and fcarcely accefliblc except in the flat -bottomed boats of
the country. But if found neceffary European induilry might certainly
form a port at the wide but impeded mouths of the Godavery, the
Killna, or the Caveri ; and when our colonies (hall have aflumed a per-
manent and ileady progrefs of population it is probable that fuch defigns
may be executed.

Not far from the weftern frontier of our fettlemcnt at Madras Hands
Arcot, elleemed the capital of Carnada or the Carnatic. The Navab *
often relides at Madras. In his dominions there are feveral celebrated
temples, vilitcd by numerous pilgrims ; and in general the fouthjrn parts
of Hindodan difplay more numerous edifices, and other marks of civili-
zation, than the northern.

Having thus briefly mentioned the Britifh polTeflions in this quarter of
Hindoilan, and their neareft ally, it may be proper to indicate a few
other remarkable places to the fouth of thefe pod'eliions. Tranqnebar is
a noted Daniih fettlemc^nt in the kingdom of Tanjorc, which embraces
the wide Delta of the Caveri. This fettlement was formed about 1617,
and has been oliicfly remarkable on account of the Lutherari miflionaric$,
who rcforted hither to convert the Hindoos, and have fomctimcs contri-
buted to illuftratc natural hiftory. Pondicherri was the principal fettle-
mcnt of the French, founded in 1674, and before the war of 1756, was 4
large and beautiful city.

On the weilern coail, or that of Malabar, ftands Cochin, on the
northern pomt of a long trad of land, forming a kind of ifland, fur,
rounded on the call by a creek of thi- fea, which receives feveral llrcanis.
But this feemingly ample harbour is obllrufted by a dangerous bar.
When the Portuguefe firft vifitfd Hindollan, Cochin and the fur-
rounding territory were poflcired by a native raja, and the ccicbratid
Vafco do Gama died here in 1525- This city remained fubjcd to the
Portuguefe till i6fto, when it was taktMj by the Dutch. The furround-
ing creeks and niarHies of this low and unhealthy Hiore abound with iilh
arjd game f .

To the north of the Britifli territories firft occurs Goa, formerly a
capital fettlement of the Portuguofi", and a notrd feat of their Inquilition.
'I'his rity, once ira;riiificent, ilandi on a fiiiall illarid in the midll of a i
iieautiful bay, which rcct-ives a rivukt called the Gonga, and two or
ihree others Iruiu the Balagauts, or higheft mountains of Suckliiiii)

• Thin w.ir!, alfo wiiicii NaMi, inijtli<:!i licuicnani-jovernyr, or vjitrny ; but ihc|
I'lilr Irfi'Miiw l)» H'll'.ury.

"f WVl'.liii, iKi. yivcj • ],'"od wctiuiU 'jf C'oclu" _, •,.

wiiiciii

l'"ir.?t;rationof thean(

'f' that what in Eurc
f^"*""--e. This iflc 11^

S'/''^ «-endib oi,
-Wlanca; and the

pisiiJand, ,;o6, the d

•1'

I'OiUllt.

CEYLON.

447

which form a jjrand diftant profpeft, while the intervening fcene is va-
riegated with hills, woods, convents, and villas. It was leized by the
celebrated Albuquerque, the greateil of the Porttiguefe commanders in
ludij. A.D. 15 1 3. It afterwards became another Malacca, another
centre of Porluguefe trade *. The harbour is ranked among the firft in
India, and if in the hands of the Englilh, would probably relume its for-
mer confequence.

The other parts of the coaft prefenting few remarkable objeAs it
will be proper to pafs the mountainous ridge, and firft vifit Porna, the
capital of the wellern empire of the Marattas, but a mean, dcfencelefs
citv i the archives of the government, and in all appearance the chief
feat of power, being at Poorunder, a fortreYs jjbout eighteen miles to
the fouth-eaft.

Viliapour, in the Maratta territory, alfo called Bejapour, is a confider-
jble city, and was once the capital of a large kingdom of the fame name.
In the vicinity are celebrated diamond mines.

Hvdrabad is the metropolis of the Nizam's territory, and parti«
ciihriy of *he celebrated kingdom or province of Golconda, but feems
otlicrwife little remarkable. lk*twixt thcfe two laft named cities ftands
Calberga, formerly the capital of a powerful kingdom, that of the
Deccan, under the Bamineah dynafty, as already n>entioned in the
reneral view of Hindoftan. On pafling the Kiftna, few places of dif-
tinjruiflied note occur. The regions on the great- river Toombuddra^
which rifes nearly in the parallel of Seringapatam, and purfues a northern
courl'e of about 5 Jo Britiih miles, till it joins the Kiftna after pafling
Canoul, have been delineated with fupcrior accuracy in Rennell's lait
isap, . v>f ^800, •

ISLAND OF CEYLON.

Iic!>i

hitnt and Name. — Reri;^lon. — Population. — Manners and Cujlom:.-—
To-x<ns. — Mtinuftiduret . — Climate. — Rivers. — Mountaint.—Foreflt.
—Zoology. — Mineralogy. — Pearl Fi/bery. — Ot/jer f/les.

Extent and xantk.

PHOUGH this idand ia not above a fifth

part of the u/.e afcrihed to it by the ftrange

UaiTgrratidn of the ancients, it llill approaches to that of Ireland, being
I generally fnppofed to be about 260 li. miUs in lenc;thby about 150 in
I breadth: hut in th. wide continent of A fia territory is on fo huge a
jfale, that what in Europe would conftitute a kingdom is here fcarccly a
province. This ifle is the Taprobana, SaUce, and Sieledeba of the an..
Ici'nts, the Serendib of the Arabians : in the Hindoo language it it
jcjllfd Lanca ; and the people are doubtlofs of Hindoo origin. Its hif-
jtorv is little known. In the reign of Claudius, embafradurs v.cre fent
lio Rome by a Singalcfe rajia, raja, or king, whom Pliny, miftaking his
jtitle for his name, has called Rachiaf. When the Portugucfe lei/.e(i
llhisilland, 1506, the chief monarch was the king of Cottuj but the

f ruiiuant, i, U9*

t Pllnv, vi.aa.

central

44«

CEYLON.

central province of Candea, or Candi, afterwards appears as the Icadimr

!)rincipality. The Portuguefe retained poflelfion of the fliores (the in,
and parts rifing *to a high table land, bounded by forefts and difficult
paiTes,) till about 1660, when they were expelled by the Dutch, be.
tween whom and the king of Kandi a war arofe 1759, which terminated
1 766 by the fubmifljon of the latter, who furrendered all the coafts, and
agreed to deliver yearly a quantity of cinnamon at a low rate *. rrom
the fordid domination of the Dutch it has recently paflcd under the mor>
liberal banner of Britifli power, *

Religion.] The rehgion of Ceylon is the ancient worfliip of
Boodh, whofe images appear with fliort and crifped hair, becaufe it
is fabled that he cut it with a golden fword, which produced that
efFeftf. The worfhip of Boodh is fuppofed to have originated in
Ceylon ; and thence to have fpread to ancient Hindoftan, to Exterior
India, Tibet, and even to China and Japan. Such are the traditions
ill Siam, Pegu, &c. which fuppofe that Boodh, probably a kind of
Confucius or deified philofopher, flourifhed about ^^o years before the
Chriftian era ( and as the Boodhis in general (hew a prodigious fuse.
riority of ^ood fenfe to the vifionary Brahmins, their accounts deferve
more credit than the idle dreams and milionary chronology of ths
PunditK. Others however fuppofe that the worfliip of Boodh originated
in J^xterior India ;{:.

Population.] Thtrc does not yet appear to be any authentic intei-
ligence concerning the population of Ceylon ; but as it feems to remain
almoll it\ a ftate of nature, thi^ inhabitants cannot be inferred to be nu.
inerous.. The hundreds of cities mentioned by ancient writers nre now
eiteemed completely fabulous; nor does there feem to be one place Je.
ferving the name of a city, mentioned either in ancient or modern record.
This ifland is only important in a commercial view, from its celebrated
produds of cinnamon and gems. The harbour of Trincomali on the
call is to us of great confequence, becaufe there is none on the eaftcni
eoaft of Hindollan : and it has even been fuggefted that in cafe any
revolution, to which all human affairs are fiibje6t, fhould expel us from
the continent of Hindoftan, this iflanci n)ignt afford an cxtenfive and
grand afylum, where the Britifh name and conimerce might be per-
petuated.

Manners and customs,] The natives of Ceylon, called Singalefe,
either from a native or Portuguefe term, are not fo b'ack as thofe of Ma.
labar, and have a few manners and cuiloms tlillin£t from other Hiaduos.
It is faid that fcvcral brothers may have one wife' in common, as in Tibet,
but the polygamy of males is alfo allowed §. In general rhaility is little
efleemed in the oriental countries ; and the morality of many nations is
fo lax in this refpc£^, that the intercourfe of the fexes is conlidendas
far more indifferent than the ufe of certain foods. The language is ra.
ther peculiar ; but fome of the natives undcrftand both the T.iP)iilicand I
that of Malabar.

Towns.] The native town Kandi, in the centre of the iflc, feems to I
be of fniall fize and confequence, and probably only dillinguiititd ! v a pa.
lifadc and a few temples ||. It was taken by the Portuguefe in 159c; but|

• Wffilin, 43. t Af. Ref. vi. 4»a.

J There arc tliffe chief d'AlniH ions bctwct.n tUr |)i lefts of Bootlh anH the nraimni
the former may lay down the pricfthood j they eat flelh, but will not kill theaiiinul; and|
tkajr form tto raft nor tribe, but are from tin* mafs of titu people,

I Wtfflitt, 4;i5.

U Mandi'Iflo, 979, wlio gives • lift of the other towiu. -.' '1 ^

nfll

to recent traveller
potrcr.

The -chief town 1

Ciilombo, a handfoi

rrrnor is elegant, bi

t!ie cool air *. Cey

climate is not fo hot

niarfty exhalations c

where the Dutch p;

Sing-alefe languages.

as that of Nigombo,

The northern p.irt

toH-norjafnapntani,

TliJ grand pearl fifhe

datchey, a miferable

from/\n'poo, a villai

tridge fupply inexhaii

On purfuing thevfli

tanks, or rocks ; but

mouth of the Morvil <

I probana ; and was def

[iavenonthefamcride

Biit the fouthern iidi

I gems and other rich pr

j moll fouthern promonn

|n.i,Tion u-ero c-olledted, '

c!;"i;J. Not far to t

(odil:d, a handfome t(

I a rock ■'.

MA.V:,'?ArTUIlK.S.]

tl:iaediii this iil.uul ; b
roks in f^old and iron.
jm'th cinnamon, pepper*
Soiiesbe forgotten amo
a bitter in recent ufe, n
country or diilridleems
J CuAfATE.J The din
jtae adjacent continent;
m air more cool and
Ifomewhat rcfembles tji
tlic centre, being furroi
hbreadth. Hi^h niou
H plants, and many i)
W\ by the Hindoos

and, fat foil, and,
bleful vegetables.
Kivi;us.J There are
W«hicb the chief. is th
p"p,talinhi8timc, a
W the royal palaces l)ei

k'^PMtreafureof gems
'eJccorated with flight

•Tliunboitf, iv. 175
■♦ iliiiiibcr^;, jv. 195

CEYLON.

4+9

CO recent travellw: appears to have vifitcd this deep recefs of fovcreign
pinver.

The-chicf town of the Portugiiefe, Dutch, and EngHfli pofieflions, is
Culombo, a handfome place, and w.il fortiiled ; the reliden.-e of the go-
f.rnor is clcjrant, but only confifts of one floor, with a balcony to receive
tJieC'iol air*. Ceylon being expofed on all fides to the fea brce/cs, the
clijnntc is not fo hot as that of Hindoilan ; far lefs peltiferous, like the
liiarfhy exhalations of Batavia. At Colombo there is a printing prcfs,
(ihere the Dutch publirti religious books in the Taniulic, Malabar, and
Sin"alefe languages. 1'he name of Colombo feems indigenous, as well
sjtliat of Nigombo, a fortrefs a few miles to the N. of this capital.

The northern parts of' Ceylon are chiefly left to the natives, but the
tnwn of Jafnapatam, or Jaf:ia, was a Dutch fettlement in a detached ifle.
The grand pearl fifhery is condufted in the gulp'i of Manar, near Con-
^tchey, a miferable place in a fandy diftrift, to which water is brought
t'rom Aripoo, a village four miles to thefouth: the fhoals near Rama's
bridge fupply inexhautUble Itorcs of this valued produ6t.iou f.

On purfuing the^fliore towards the eaft, it is moftly guarded by fand-
banks, or rocks ; but the whole harbour of Trincomali opens at tl\e
mouth of the Morvil Ganga, the Ganges of Ptolemy's large map of Ta-
jirobana ; and was defended by a Itrong fortrefs. Batacola is an inferior
lavcnon the fame fide of the iiland.

But the fouthern fide of Ceylon iras been chiefly vif.t'd, abounding with
(Terns and other rich productions. Matura was a Dutch faclory near tiie
I nc'i fouthern proinontor)' called Donilra, where oxcellcnt kinds of cin-
Urnon were colleftc-d, and varieties of precious (lones abound in the vi-
cir.avj:. Nut far to the W. of Matura is Gale, or Galle, near a point
fjca'lL'J, a handfome town ilrongly toililied, on the projedling angle of
|arock;j;. : • ■

MAN'tTACTUUlvS.] Tiicn? is little mention of any manufis^urcs con-
bvd ill this iii.m'd ; but I he nr/iives fconi not unfkilk'd in the common
Itrorks in ^old and iron. Tiic Dutch Ihipr. ufed to fail from Galie, laden .
v'ith cinnamon, pepper, and other fpices : nor nuiit pearls and precious
liwsbe forgotten among the articles oF export. The Colombo wood,
la bitter in recent ufe, receives i's name from the capital; but its native
[country or diilriC:\ feems ilill unknown.

Cmmate. I The climate and feafons correfpond in fome degree with
[the adj;iccMit continent ; yet the cxpofure <ni ail fides to the fea renders
Itlie air more cool and faliibrious. The general afpeft of the country
Ifomcwliat refembles that of louthvrn Hindollan ; a higli t.ible land, in
Ithc centre, being furrounded with low fliores, about fix or eight leagues
In breadth. Hi^h mountains, prodigious forelhs, full of aromatic trees
land plantB, and many pleafant rivers u;id llreart divcrfify this country,
liich by the Hindoos is eilecmed a IVcond paradife. The vales are
kf a rich fat foil ; and, when cleared, amazingly fertile in rice, and other
pfeful vegetables. , ,

RiVKUs.] There are fiive confiderable rivers defcribcd by Ptolemy ;
kf which the chief is the Morvil Ganga, on which ftood -Maagramum,
■tie capital in his time, and modern Kandi Hands on the fame llrcam, one
Y the royal palaces being on an ifle in that river, where the monarch
pps a treafure of gems ; and his olhcers, like thufe of Exterior India^

ire decorated with flight chains of gold.

U i-

• ThunbfM^, W. 175.

:i ThtaiU'r;;, iv. lyd. 331,

t Af. Hrf. V.
( lb, i94.

397

/ »

fh«

4JO

CEYLON.

The Phafis of Ptolemy runnhig N. is perhaps the ftream which paffei
to the N.W, by Ackpol. His weftem ftream of Soana is perhaps that
which enters the fea in that diredion, hear the centre of the ille. The
Azanus, S.W., feems that near the point of Galle ; while his Baracus
£., is the Barokan.

Mountains.] The chain or chains of mountains run N. and S., the
fouthem part being called Malea by the Greek geographer ; a mere na-
live term for a mountain as Ganga for a river. The northern part is by
iPtolemy called Galibe. Thefe mountains feem granitic, and are pecu.
liarly rich in precious ftones imbedded in primitive quartz. What the
Mahometans have termed Adam's Peak is efteemed the higheft ; and ii
in Sanfcrit called Salmala» Boodh being fabled to have afcended from it
to heaven.

Forests.] The forefts are numerous and large, the haunts of innu-
merable elephants, like the Gauts of foutherii Hindoftan. An ample
account of the botany of this ifland is given by the ikilful Thunberg •
one of the moft peculiar and precious trees is that producing the beli
cinnanron.

ZooLOCY.] The elephants of Ceylon are fuppofed only to yield in
beauty to thofe of Siam, and chiefly frequent the fouthern part of the
ifland. Buffaloes are alfo found in a wild ftate, while the tame are ufedj
in rural economy. The wild boars are numerous and extremely fierce;:
nor is the tiger unknown. Bears, chakals, and many tribes of deer am
monkeys, are alfo natives of Ceylon. The alligator, frequent in thi
Hindoo rivers, here fometimes reaches the length of eighteen feetJ
Among a vaft variety of elegant birds, the peacock, that rich ornameM
of the Hindoo foretts, fwarms in this beautiful ifland.

Mineralogy.] Ceylon, opulent in every department of natural
tory, prefents many minerals of uncommon bdauty. Not to mentioi
iron, gold, plumbago, &c., Thunberg lias given a lift of the precioui
ftones, among which are the genuine ruby, fapphire, and topaz. Thi
fincfl rock cryflals, botli the colourlefs, and tliofe of a violet colour calle
amethyfts, are found here in abundance, and are generally dark broi
or yellowifli ; while thofe of other colours come from Brazil and
Tyrol. It is alfo afl'erted that this ifland produces the genuine emi
raid, which is commonly eflcomed peculiar to Peru. The cat's ey(
feems the charadtcriilic mineral of Ceylon, as the noble or genuine opi
is of Hungary.

PiCAHLs.] Nor rauft the pearl fifliery be forgotten, which commoDl
begins on the N.W. fliore about the middle of February, andcontinui
till about the middle of April, when the S.W. monfoon commences
The village of Condatchey k tlien crowded with a mixture of tboufam
of people of different colours, countries, calls, and occupations ; wtl
numcroiiit tents and huts, and bazars, or fliops ; while the fea prefcnl
many boats haflening to the banks, or returning with the expedi
riches. The divers are chiefly Chriflians or Nwflems, who defcei
from Ave to ten fathoms, and remain under water about two minut
each bringing up about a hundred oyileri in his net. Thefe pearl
always formed like the coats of an onion, around a grain of fand orfoi
other extraneous particle. The yellow or gold coloured arc moileileei
by the natives ; and fome are of a bright red lullrc, but the dull grey
blackiih are of oo value.

• Af.ilef. v.a«4.

CEYLON.

45 >

Other i&les.] There are no other ifles of any confequence near the
coafts of Hindoftan . Thofe called Lacadives, and Maldives fcarcely merit
a particular defcription in a work of this general nature ; and the Anda-
man and Nicobar ifles properly belong to Exterior India, where a fliort
account of them may be found after the pcninfula of Malacca, to which
coaft they are the moft approximated. It may here fuffice to obferve
that in the Hindoo language iiive implies an ifle : and Ptolemy computes
thofe which mariners faw before they reached Ceylon, that is the Mal-
dives, at more than thirteen hundred. They form as it were an oblong
iDclofure of fmall low regular ifles around a clear fpace of fea with vejy
Ihallow water between each. They are governed by a chief called Atoll»
and the trade is in cowrie fliells, with cocoa nuts and fifli *. The lan-
guage is Singalefe, and there are fome Mahometans. The Lacadive iflands
fonn a more extended group, though only thirty in number. They alfo
trade in cocoa nuts and fi(h ; and ambergris is (^ten found floating in
thevicinity. ,^ _.^ _,, -; .,',;,._ ..i,_,- .,,.,, .'. ,,.. •-.„■,., ^ .. - . •. ■

PERSIA.

CHAPTER I.

HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Dlvjftons. — Name.—Exttnt. — Population. — Progreffvoe Geography,—'
Provinces. — Hi/!orical Epochs. — jincient Monumentt.— Modern J/iflory.
—Eajiern Perjta.

_. , 'T^HE ancient and powerful monarchy of I

UiVisiONS.J J^ during the greater part of laa century.

Perfia has,
been in a
moft diftrafied and divided condition, and the inhabitants formerly re-
nowned for wifdom and benignity, have been degraded, by civil difcord^
and mutual enmity and diftruft, into a tempotary debafement both moral
and political. This empire feems at length, in fome degree, to have fet-
tled into two divifions, the eaftern and the weftern \ while the provinces
near the Cafpian, fecured by mountains and faltnefles, have aflerted a
kind of independence. Thefe circumftances are unfavourable to a iuil
and exaft dehneation of the prefent ftate of the country ; but the chief
limits, and many of the moft important geographical topics, have been in-
violably fixed by the hand of nature ; and the following defcription fliall
embrace modern Perfia in general* as it was in the time of Chardin, com-
bined with the moft recent and authentic information.

Name.] The name of Perfia fpread from the province of Pars or Pars
throughout this mighty empire, in like manner as, among other inilances,
the appellation of £lnglana originated from a fmall tribe. This name,
has, however, been little known to the natives, who in ancient and modern
timet, have termed their country Irant under which denomination were in-
cluded all the wide regions to the S. and W. oi the river Oxus, or Gihon,
the Amu of the Ruflians and Tatars ; while the countries fubje^^ to Perfia
beyond that celebrated river were in ancient times ilyled jiniran.

*Penrant, I. SI.
Gg3

il^XTBNt.}

^V . i'

45*

PERSIA.

Extent.] From the mountains and defcrts wlilch, with the river
Araba, conilitute theeaftern frontier towards Hindollan, Perlia cxtcr.dj
more than laoo miles in length, to the tveltern mountains of Ekvend,
and other limits of Afiatic Turkey. From fouth to north, from the do-
ferts on the Indian fea, in all ages left to the Ichthyophagi, or wild tribes
■ of Arabs who live on fifli, to the other deferts near the fea of Aral are
about looo B. miles.

Population*.] The original population of the mountainous country
of Periia appears to have been indigenous, that is, no preceding nation can
be traced ; and in the opinion of all the moft learned and flcilful inquirers,
this nation is Scythic or Gothic, and the very fource and fountain of all
the celebrated Scythian nations- While the iouthern Scythians of Iran
gradually became a fettled and civilized people, the barbarous northern
tribes fpread around the Cafpian and Euxine feas ; and befidcs the power-
ful fettlements of the Getae and Maflagetae, the Gog and Magog of orien-
tal authors, and others on the north and eaft of the great ridge of moun.
tains called Imaus, or Belur Tag, they detached victorious colonies into
the greater part of Europe many centuries before the Chrillian era *. Tie
ancient Medes and Parthians in the north of Pjrfia appear however to
have been of Sarmatic, or Slavonic origin, and to have fpread fronuheir
native regions on the Volga, towards the Circaflian mountains, alonnr
which ridge they pafl'ed to the fouth of the Cafpian, the ancient fitcof
Media and Parthiene. The grand chain of Caucafus forms a kind of
centi-al point of immigration and emigration from the E. and W. wlience
the great variety of nations and languages that are traced even in modern
times. The late very learned and excellent Sir Wilham Jones, who did
honour to his country and century, has repeatedly exprefTcd his opin-cn
that while the Parfi and Zend, or proper and peculiar Pcrfian hnguagCjis
of the fame origin wiih the Gothic, Greek, and Latin ; the Pthlavi is
Affyrian or Chaldaic.

Progkessive GEOr.nAPHY.] The contefts of ancient Perfia with
Greece, and the Greek colonies eilabliflied in Afia Minor, then witliin
the wide limits of the Perfian empire, have rendered the ancient geography
of this country not a little luminous. Herodotus, the father of hillory,
was born at Halicarnaffus, one of thefe colonies ; and his account of the
twenty fatrapies, or great provinces of the Perllan empire, in the reign
of Darius Hydafpes, or Ghuflitafp, has been ably illuftrated in a late
work of Major Rennell. , The prefent defign however only embraces the
modern provinces and limits ; and the former may be thus arranged, pro-
ceeding from the W. towards the N. E. after remarking that the limits
of the ancient and modern provinces often coincide, as theyconfiftof
rivers and ranges of mountains.

PftoviNCEJ?.] I. Georgia, or more properly Gurguftan, in whichmay
be included Daghillan and Shirvan. Thefe may be confidered as coniH-
luting the Albania of the ancients ; a name applied in different quarters to
mountainous regions.

2. Erivan, a large portion of aijcient Armenia, between the river Kur,
or Cyrus on the north, and the Aras or Araxes on the fouth.

3, ^derbijan, includhig Mogan, the Atropatena of the ancients.

■ 4. Ghilan to the eaft of the laft on the Cafpian fea, and fynonymous
with the ancient Gela.

• See thetuthor's DiOertatioo on the Scytlii»ni or Goths, inh'u Inquiry uito ihc Hifiotj
.' «f Scuiknd, 3 vul(. hvu.

' 1 ,. / ^

. T9

PERSIA.

453

e. To cU)fe tlie lift of countries on the Cafpian, Mazenlran appenrs
encircled oa the fouth by a lofty branch of the Caucafian chain, the feat .
of the Mardi of antiquity ; to the E. of which was the noted province of
Hvrcania, now Corvan andDahiltan.

(5. Returning to the W. frontier, there occurs IraC Ajcmi, chiefly cor-
refponding with the ancient Ecbatana. In the fouth of this province is
Ifpahan, tlie modern capital of Perfia.

n. Choliilan extending to the river Tigris ; but the capital Buflbra, or
Bafea, after a recent vain attempt of the Arabs, remains fubjeft to the
Turks. Tliis province con efponds with the ancient Siifiana.

8. The celebrated province of Fars, Perils, or Perfia Proper, fur-
rounded with mountains on the N. the W. the S., and on the E. feparated
by a defert from Kerman. Fars contains the beautiful city of ShiraZt
with Ilbkar and the ruins of Porfepolis.

0. Kerman, the ancient Carmania. ] "''•' '."'< •(>•' \" " ' V'

10. Laridan, a fmall province on the Perfian gulph to the S. E. of
Fars, of which fome regard it as a part ; nor docs the fubdivifion
feem to be known in ancient times, though the long ridges of mountains
on the S. of Fars, and generally about 6o B. miles from the Perfian.
galph, feem here naturally to indicate a maritime province ; which, if
the ancient Perfians had been addifted to commerce, would have been the
feat of great wealth by intercourfe with Arabia, Africa, and India. ,'

11. To the E. of Kirman is the large province of Mu'kran, which ex-
tends to the Indian deferts, and is the ancient Gadniftan or Gedrofia.-
This province has always been unfertile and fall of deferts: and claflical
ffoography here prefents only one mean town called Pura, probably Bor«
p\, on the moil W. frontier.

12. Segiftan, another wide frontier province towards India, was chiefly.
the Arachoiia and Saranga of antiquity ; while the province of Paropa-
niifus in the N. E. encroached on Candahar and the modern limits of
Hindollan.

13. The grand and terminating divifion of modern Perfia in the N. E.
is Corafan, bounded by the Gihon or Oxus on the N. E., and on the S.
by the lake of Zere, or Zurra, the grand Aria Palus of antiquity. The
claffical provinces comprifed within Corafan are, in the N. Margiana, and
in the S. Aria.

Befiiles thefd provinces, and exclufive of Afiatic Turkey on the W.
the ancient Perfian empire comprifed Baftriana or Balk, which may be
termed a wide and well watered kingdom of between 300 and 400 B.
miles fqtiarc ; and on the other fide of the Oxus, Sogdiana, or the conn-
try on the river Sogod, which pafes by modern Samarcand. The
fifteenth latrapy of Herodotus comprifes the Sacx and Cafpii, probably
the country of Shafti, and lome other tribes nearer the Cafpian tea. This
province adjoined on the W. to Corafmia, wliich belonged to the fixteenth
fatrapy, and is now the defert fpace of Kharifm, with the fmali territory
of Khiva.

The covMitries laft mentioned form fo confiderable a part of what is
called Independent Tatary, and have in all ages been fo intimately con-
ntfted with Perfian hiilory, that fome account of them (hall be annexed
to this article ; which, joined with that in the Chinefe empire, will com-
plete the defcription of the countries between the dominions of that great
iiate and thofe of Ruflia and Perfia, fo far as the very imperfcd materials
will allow. The progreflive geography of Perfia may be traced through
Strabo, Pliny, the hillorians of Alexander, and other clafilcal fourcea ;
and afterwards through the Arabian authuru ^bn Haukal> Abulfeda,

Gg3 &c.

454

PERSIA.

&c. &c. to the modem hbours of Chardin> and other intelligent tra.
vellers.

Historical epochs.] The chief hiftorical epochs of the Perfian em-
pire may be arranged in the following order :

1. The Scythians or barbarous inhabitants of Perfia, according to the
account of Juilin, conquered a great part of Afia, and attacked Egypt
about 1500 years before the reign of Ninus the founder of the Aflyrian
monarchy ; that is, fo far as the faint light of chronology can pretend to
determine fuch remote events, about 3660 years before the Chrillian ara.
The Egyptians, a people of Alfyrian extradl, as the Coptic language
feems to evince, v^rere from fuperior local advantages civili/ed ai a
more early period, and their genuine chronology feems to begin about
4000 years before Chrill. The venerable hiftorical records contained
in the fcriptures atteft the early civilization and ancient polity of tlie
Egyptians. The firft feat of the Perfian monarchy was probably in the
N.E. on the river Oxus ; while the Aflyrians poffefTed the Euphrates
and the Tigris, and the S.W. of Perfia.

The hiftory of the Aflyrian empire begins with Ninus about 2160
years before Chrift, who is faid to have formed an alHance with the king
of Arabia, and, in conjunction with him, to have fubdued all Afta, except
India and Badlriana ; that is, according to the ancient knowledge, he
fubdued Afia Minor and the weft of Perfia.

2. Zoroafter king of Ba£^riana is faid to have been contemporary with
l^inus, and to have invented magic ; that is, he was a wife man, who
could produce uncommon effeds by common caufes. But the hiltory of
this Perfian lawgiver is loft in remote antiquity.

^, jCyrus founds what is called the Perlian empire, 557 years before
the Chrian era, and foon after takes Babylon. This great event may
be (aid" only to have difclofed to the Perfians the civifized nations of
the weft, for the native Perfian hiftorics afcend to Kayumarras, great
gjrandfon of Noah, and the ancient traditions chiefly refer to wars
aeainft Toiiran and India, which indicate the primitive eaftern pofition of
the people.

4. The overthrow of the firft Perfian empire by Alexander, B.C.
328, followed by the Greek monarchs of Syria, and the Grecian king,
dom of Badlriana, of which laft an interefting hiftory has been compiled
by the learned Bayer. It commenced about 248 years before Chriil, and
contained feveral fatrapies, among which was Sogdiana.

5. The Parthian empire, which likewife began about 248 years B.C.
This was amcre revival of the Perhan empire under a new name.

6. Ardftiur, or Aftaxerxcs, about tlie year 220 of the Chriftian era, re-
ftores the Perfian line of kings ; this dynally being called Safliinides.

7. The coriqueftof Perfiaby theMahoipptans, A. D.636. The native
kingdom was revived in Corafan, A. D. 8^0 ; and after feveral revolutions
refumed its former fituation.

8. The acceflion o£ the houfe of Boniah, A. p. 934,

' 9. That of the hbufe of Sefi or Sofi, A. D. 150 1, whence the tide of
Softs of Perfia, for it is unneceiTary here to repeat the conqueils of Zingis
and Timur, aftd the fubfequent divifions and revohitions.

10. The reign of Shah Abas, fumamedthe Great, A. p. 1586.
" II. Thebriefconqueftby the Afgan8,i722} andconfequentextindion
ef the houfe of Sefi, and elevation of Nadiri fumamed Thamas Kouli Khan,
A. p. 1 736. Thi» ferocious chief was born in Corafan ; and after a reign
of eleven years was flain 20th June, 17471 near the city of Mefliid, in the
fiwnc country. ''•-•—-- ■-• ■'-'^■- -.'. .... .Vj..;.-.,,' ,.,:.:,, -•..

■ ■ ' ■:: <■ As-

PERSIA.

45;

Ancient monuments.] Some account of the modern lilftory and
late of Perfia (hall be g^iven, after a very brief view of the ancient monu-
ments. Of thefe the ruins of Perfepolis are the mod celebrated and re-
markable. They are fituated at the bottom of a mountain, fronting
S. W. about forty miles to the north of Shiraz. They command a view
of the extenfive plain of Merdaftit, and the mountain of Rehumut encir- „
cles them in the torm of an amphitheatre ; the nature of thefe ruins may,
be feen in the numerous plates which have been publifhed ; and it would
be an idle attempt to defcribe in few words the grand portals, halls, and
columns and numerous relievos and devices. There are many infcription9
ill a character not yet explained, the letters of which foraewhat refemble
nails, difpofed in various directions.

Several fmall edifices and caverns of fimilar architednre are found in
various parts of Perfia, all which undoubtedly preceded the MahoiQetan
(onqueft, but it is difficult to afcertain their precife era.

In many parts of Perfia their muft remain feveral curious monuments of
antiquity, which might well excite the curiofity of the learned traveller
to jnveitigate this interefting country. The defign of the prefent work
rather requires fome information concerning the modern ftate of this
•nee powerful monarchy, which (hall be chiefly derived from Mr.
Franklin's view of the tranfadtions in Perfia from the death of Nadir
Shah, 1747» to 1788 ; combined with the accounts of Gmelin, who
by command of the emprefs of Rullia infpe£ted the northern provinces
and Ghilan ; and thofe of Pallas, in his lad travels during the years 1 763
and 1764.

MooEBN HISTORY. 3 Nadir Shah was fucceeded by his nephew Adil,
who, after a tranfitory rei?n, was followed by his brother Ibrahim,
Meanwhile Timur Shah reigned in Cabul, Candahar, and the Perfian
provinces adjacent to Hindollan ; and availing himfelf of the cpnfufion
Id Perfia he befieged Mefchid, which he too^ after a l^lockade of eight
months.

This event wa& followed by fuch anarchy and confufion, that it feema
impoiGble to fettle '.he chronology of the infinite crimes which were com-
mitted during the contefts of numerous chiefs which defqiated almoft
every province from Gombroon to Ruffia, leaving indelible marks of de-
ftruaion throughout the kingdom, and changing even the very charader
of the people, whofe prudence ie degenerated into cunning, ^nd theijr
courage into ferocity,

At length the government of weftem Perfia was h»>pily fettled for
a confiderable fpace of time in the perfbn of Kerim Khan, who how-
ever never aflumed the title of Shah, but was contented with that of
Vakeel or regent. This great and mild prince had been a favourite
officer of Nadir; and at the time qf that tyrant's death was in the
fouthern provinces, where he aflumed the power at Shiraz, and was
warmly fupported by the inhabitants of that city, who had obferved
and revered his juftice and l^eneficence. In reward he embellifhed this
city and its environs with nqble palaces, gardens and mofques, improved
the highways, and rebuilt the caravanferas. His reign was eftabliflied
by the fword, but Ayas afterwards unfullied by blood ; and its chief peril
arofe from extreme mercy. His charity to the poor, and his attempt to
reftore the cqmtperce of the country are gratefully rpmQmi)eied by na-
tives and Europeans.

Another unhappy period of confufion follawpf} the death of Kerim ;
hit relation Zikea or Saki feized the governmept, which was contefted
by another kipfipani AU Murad. The deteftable cruelty of Zikea

G g 4 led

45*5

PERSIA.

led to his own dcdriKSion, and he wzs maffacred by his troopj at
Yezdekaft, about ' fix days journey N. of Shiraz, on the road to
Ifpahan.

Abul Futtnh Avas then proclaimed king by the foldiers, and to liim
Ali Murad fiihmittcd ; but Sadick, brother of Kerim, oppofed his ne.
ph^w's elevation. S.ulick marched from Buffora at the head of an ai'mv
dethroned the young monarch, and after depriving him of his fvAit
ordfred him into HriiR; confinement.

Ali Murad, then at Ifpahan, rebelled againft this nfurper, and with
an army of twelve tlioufand men bcfiegcd and took Shiraz, and put Sa-
dick to death with three of his children. A fon Jaafar was apoointcd
by the new king governor of Kom, a city or province to the N. W. of
Ifpahan.

Ali Murad was now regarded as peaceable pofleflbr of the Perllan
throne ; but an eunuch called Aga Mamet, or Akau, had, fince the
death of Kerim, affumed an independent fway in the Cafpian province
of Mazendran. When advancing againft him, Ali Murad fell from his
horfe and in ftanrly expired. Jaafar having affumed the fceptre, was de-
feated by Akaw at Yezdekaflc, and retired to Shiraz.

In 1792, Akau again colleftcd an army, and conquered the cities of
Kafbin and Tckheran or Tahiran. Having then reinforced his troops
with thofe of Ali Khan of Ham fa, a prince! who had afferted a kind of
independency (ince the death of Ali Murad, he advanced againit Jaafar,
who retreated to Shiraz, where he pcrifhed in an infurredlion, and his fon
Luturf fled to the fouth.

Akau had now no rival except Hidaetj khan of Ghilan, who v,as
forced to fly from Rafht his place of refidence, but was killed near the
port of Sinfili. In confeqnence of thefe events Akau became monarch of
all weftern Perfia ; and being an eunuch, had nominated for his fiic.
cefTor his nephew Baha Serdar.

Eastern teusia.] Having thus as briefly as pofTible difcufFed the
recent hiftory of weftern Perfia, the eaftern half yet remains, being iin.
happily feparated in a great degree by high ridges of mountains and
fandy deferts, a circumftahce which has been repeatedly produftive of
great difaflers to this wide empire.

This natTiral feparation has occafioned great obfcurity in the ancient
hidory of Perfia, the eaftern half remaining a diftindl and independent
country, of the fame general name with the weftern, but with hmits and
liiftory totally diftinft.

The bell materials concerning the kingdom of Candahar feem to be
tliofe collefted by RenncU ; and they are, if poffible, yet more fcanty
than thofe concerning the weftern half. Ahmed Abdalla, lirft king of
Candahar, was originally the chief of an Afgan tribe, conquered by Nadir
Shah, on whofe death he fuddcRly appeared among his former fnbjcds,
and foon erefted a confiderable kingdom in the eaftern part of Porlia in-
eluding mod of the Indian provinces ceded by the Mogul to Nadir. He
eftablifhed the capital at Cabul, at a fecure diftance behind the mountains
of Hindoo Koh.

Ahmed died about the year 1773, ''nd was fucceedcd by Timur, who
continued to refide at Cabul ; but the monarchy has been ftyled that
of Candahar from a central province. The fucceflTor of Timur was
Zemaun, who probably ftill rules this extenfive country, which has
happily been free from the inteftine commotions which have defolated
weftern Perfia. Since the great battle of Panniput, fought by Ahmed
AtxhUUl againft the Mar^ttas 176!} the JuKgdom of Candahar feema

Rcll^m. — Govern

PERSIA.

457

to have remained in a pacific ftate, and the government is of applauded

lenity-

The fariheft extent of this monarchy on the ead comprifcs Caflimiri
which was probably fubdued about 1754 *. In the weit, according to
the opinion of Rennellf , it extends to the vicinity of the city of Ter-
(hiz, or Tur{hi'/, in the fame line of longitude with Mefliid, a length of
about 900 B. miles. The province of Sindi at the mouth of the Indus,
isalfo fubjeflt to Zemaun, with th& wellern part of Moultan, but the
remainder on' the eall bank of tliat river, and the wide and fertile province
of Lahore, are poffeffed by the Sciks, a warlike nation. The other pro-
vinces are Kuttore, Cabiil, Candahar, and witliin the Perfian boundary
Segillan, and probably Mekran, with the eallern part of Corafan, and the
province of Gaiir, the medial breadth being probably about 500 miles.
The remainder of Balk and Great Bucharia belong to Independent Ta-
tar/. The chief fubjedls of Zemaun are tlie Afgans, or people of the.
mountains between Perfia and Hindollan, who may be confidered as the
founders of the empire ; the others arc Hindoos, Pcrliaus, and a few
Tatars. . • , .

}'.[

CHAPTER II.

POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Religion. — Government. — Population^ — Army. — Navy.-— Revenuei,-^
Political Importance and Rtlatlotis.

^ ,''1 ''HE religion of Perfia is well known to be tht IV'. (lo-
Religion.J JI^ metan, which was introduced by the fword, and -.^b
been followed by its ufual effefts, the dcftruction and depopulation of
the country. Yet the Perfians adopt a milder fyftem of this creed than
is followed by the Turks and Arabs. Their native good fenfe and be-
nignity of manners led them to reject feveral abfurdities, whence they
are regarded by the other Mahometans as heretics.

Of the Parlees, or ancient worfliippers of fire, there feem to be no
remains in Perfia, except perhaps a few vifitors of the fiery eruptions
of naphtha near Baku, on the weftcrn fliores of the Cafpian if. Thefe
innocent idolators have been almod extirpated by Mahometan fana-
ticifm, which has propagated every fcandal that malice could invent,
rcprefenting them as devourers of children, and familiar with other
atrocities. Mr. Hanway informs us that thefe C;i''b<»rs, or infidels,
particularly worihip the everlafting fire near Baki.^ ?• . emblem of Or-
mnzd, or the fupreme ineffable Creator ; while the evil principle be-
lieved to have fprung from matter, was ilyled Ahriman ^. But the
chief worfiiippers of the fine of Baku came froni Hindollan, to which
the Parfces retreated when Abas expelled thejn from his empire ; and
they itiil abound near Bombay, where their fingular mode of fepultuvi;
excites attention, as they expofe their dead in inclofed areas to be de-
voured by birds of prey, a cuftom which has been propagated to fome
other oriental nations. Mr. Hanway fays that there were ftill fome

• Forller, ii. M. f Ps^e, 1J2. ^

J Gmdin, in tlie DecoHvertes Rufles, Berne, 1799, fix vuls. Bvo, torn. ii. 19. • .« '
{ Travels, i. g63.

wor*

' I

45«

PERSIA.

worlhippcrs of fire at a place thence ftyled Gueberabad, near If
pahan.

Th* priefts of the Mahometan religion, or MuUas, are in Perf
often ftyled Ahonds^ which fignifies readers ; and they not only preach
in the mofques,but are often fchoolmallers *. The Pechnamas are fuperior
MuUas, or vicars of the Imams f. The Fakirs and Calenders are
wandering monks, or rather fturdjr beggars ; who, under the pretext of
religion, compel the people to maintain them in idlenefs.

Government.] The government of Perfia, like that of all other
oriental ftates, appears to have been always defpotic ; but its adtni-
niftration in eaftem Perfia, or the kingdom of Candahar, is repre!
fented as mild. The date of the people feems to be deplorable, beine
fubje6: to the arbitrary power and extortions of the numerous Khans or
chiefs. Thefe are fometimes governors of provinces, fometinies only
pofleflbrs of fmall diftrifts, and pretend to hereditary fucceflion
though liable to be forfeited or put to death by the arbitrary man!
idate of the fovereign. The great Khans are fbmetimes llyled Beg.'
ierbergs, or lord of lords ; and in time of war Serdars, or geiierafs.
Thofe who command cities are commonly ftyled Darogas, or go!
vemors %.

Population.] The prefent ftate of the population of Perfia cannot
)>ejjuftly eftimated, but it perhaps little exceeds that of Afiatic Turkey
which has been computed at ten millions. Of thefe perhaps fix millioni
may belong to weftern Perfia ; \\^hile the other four contribute towards
tfaepo^ulation of the kingdom of Candahar.

Though Mr. Franklin has fuppofed that the rival kings in weftern
Perfia could not mufter more than twenty thoufand men each, yet
the account of Pallas implies that Aga Mamet raifed an army of
feventy thoufand. But fuppofing weftern Perfia united, and fomewhat
reinftated in profperity, it is not probable that the army could exceed
100,000 effeAive men, which may probably aifo be the amount of that
of Candahar.

Navy.] From fome particular precept in the laws of Zoroafter,
which it was impoflible to obfervc at fea, the ancient Perlians were never
a maritime people, though they commanded an ample gulf with tlic
mouths of the Euphrates and the Tigris. The commerce en the Indian
ocean, as well as on the Cafpian fea, has been always chiefly conduced
by the Armenians, a moft induftrious and refpe£lable people. Hence
the commerce of this countiy, fo advantageoufly fituated, has aiuays
been in the hand of ftrangers t while the natives, with feudal pride, at-
tend to their horfes and the chac(>, and lead what is called the life of a
gentleman, neither improving their own property nor the country in
general : fcarcely one Perfian veflel therefore lus iu any age navigated the
fea.

Revenues.] The a6^ual revenues 3f Perfia it is impoflible to elli-
mate ) but the ruinous ftate of the country muft render it unprodiiAive.
The Turkifti revenue has been computed at feven millions ftcrling ; and
it may perhaps be conjeAured with fume (hew of probability that the
monarch of Candahar may draw from hit various and extenfivc pro-

• riuinlin, Jt. 79.

t Tht chief irclatc U flylfd Sheikial Sf lUum, or HmJ <A the ftitli ; »lfo S«Har Ciffi,
•f Hiifh r Ml ; and «'om»'tiinf» N»v»l», or viim (of thu irropbct). $»olw>, JO.
: CI1.11 ; vl. < I .

-• ■. • vir.ccj

• 'file toman ii roral

««*«•», a goW coin ofl
»«;tom«.i„forty.fiv,|J

PERSIA.

459

vinces about^ three millions fterling ; while weftern Perfia foar(;ely
fupplies two millions. Chardin fays that the ancient revenue confifted
partly in contributions in kind j Kurdiftan, for inllancej furnifliing
butter, while Georgia fupplied female flaves } and partly arofe from
the royal domains, with a third of nnetals, precious nones, and pearls }
and a few duties and taxes. The whole revenue was by fome eftit
mated at 700,000 tomans** or about thirty-two millions of French
Hvres.

Political importance and relations.] The political importance.
and relations of Perfia are now greatly rellrifted. Were the weftern
part united under one fovereign, it might lend eife^ual afliftance to the
RulfiaHS in any defign againft the Turks, But in its recent dif-
trafted ftate, Perfia has been little formidable even to the declining
power of Turkey ; and the Rufltans feem to entertain no defire of ex-
tending: their conquefts over the mountainous Cafpian pronnces, which
peter the Great once held and abandoned, fo that Perfia feems fe»
cure on the fide of Rulfia, as well as on that of Turkey and Ara«
bia : this unhappy fecurity being in fa£t one grand caufe of the civil
anarchy.

Eaftern Perfia, or the kingdom of Candahar, appears to have little
to apprehend from the Seiks on the other fide of the Indus ; and the
\]ihcc KiCans of Balk, Bucharia, and Kharifm, are difunited and little
formidnble, though they command a warlike people. It is there-
fore more probable that thefe countries may be vanquiflied by the
kings of C(indahar, than that any danger (hould arife from ..ne
Uzbecs. A conteft may probably happen betweeen eaftern and
wellern Perfia ; but even if united under one fovereign, it would be
long before this country could rcfume her rsnk among powerful na*
tions.

CHAPTER III.

■ CIVIL CEOCnAPHV.

Mitimrs and Cujlomt.'—Language*'-^ Literature,-^ Educatm.^^Citia,^^
Mant^aSuret and Commerce. .

., ^ nr^HE manners and cuftoms of the Per-

Manners AND CUSTOMS.] J[ f,^^,^ j„ ^^^ feventeenth century, have

been amply detaild by Chardin, Thevcnot, Sanfon, and other tra-
vellers.

More modem ideas of Perfian maimers may be derived from the
travels of Gmelin in Ghilan f . The Perfians ftill pride themfelves in
univerfal politenefs, and are hofpitable, not however without the ex-
peAation of prefents in return. They feem to confider themfelves as
more wife and fagacious than other nations, yet are palfionate ; and
the recent commotions have imparted a taint of crueltv to the national
charaAer %. Of a fanguine temperament, both rich and poor are gene-

* The toman a romputtil at •bout •!. 7i. beiNg mther more iLtu rqiial to two gold
raohun, ■ gol«l coin or Ninduftan, worth tbout tliirty-two flitllingi. Cnardin oomputn
tltc toBuii tt furty-iivs iivrri of hia time.

t Ihfiwe ilrs DHOuutrltsJaitts par divtri fttvant Fotfageiirt dam phtfinat control Jt tt
/lu//,> ,r( dt la Prrje. Sin volt, Svo. ^rne, 1 7 7 V— 1 7 •; .

I DccouT, RiilT. ii. !27(i.

4^0..

PERSIA.

i-ally gay ; and immoderate mirth will fuccfed the moft vio'ent qiiaritlc;.
They are extremely attached to the fair fex, and not avcrfe to wine'
The general complexion is fair, fomewhat tinged with olive ; but thofe
in the fouth about Shiraz, of Candahar, and the provinces towards
India, are of a dark brown. They are commonly fat, with black hair
high forehead, aquiline nofe, full cheeks, and a large chin, the form ot"
the countenance being frequently oval. The men are generally (IronT niid
robuft, and inclined to murtial exercifes, but they are particularly Uih.
je6l to diforders of the eyes. They generally fliave the head, and wear
high crimfon bonnets ; but the beard is facred, and tended with grcut
care. They often wear three or four liglit drefl'es, one above the other
fadened with a belt and fa(h ; and they are fond of large cloaks of thick
cloth. The women wrap around their heads pieces of filk of diffcrcia
colours ; and their robes are rather (horter than thofe of the men. Tin;
Perfians eat twice or thrice a day, dining about noon, buttlic cliiifre.
pall is the fupper, as with the ancient Greeks and Romans. The mott
ufual diHi is boiled rice, varioufly prepared. The meat is boiled to ex-
cef», and the meal is enlarged with pot-herns, roots, and fruits, cakes,
hard eggs, and above all fwcet-meats, of which they are cxtremily
fond. They are remarkable for clcanlincfs, both in their perfous and
habitations.

Marriages are conduced by female mediation ; and the pomfi and cere.
monies fomewhat refemble the Ruffian. Polygamy is allowed; but the
firft married is the chirf wife. The tombs of the rich are often grand,
as are the cenotaphs of the twelve Imams, or vicars of the prophets, re-
garded by the Chias as his only lawfid fucccflbrs.

Language.] The language of Pcriia is perhaps the moft celebrated
of all the Oriental tongues, for llrength, beauty, and melody. Theex-
cellent work of Sir William Jones on Oriental poetry difclofes part of the
treafurcs to be found in this language. In geiienil the Perluut literature
approaches nearer to the European in folid good I'enfe, and clcaniefs of
thouglit and exprcffion, than that of any other Aliatio iialion ; as the
language itfelf has been long known to bear a llr®ng aflitiity to the Ger-
man, though fofcencd by the long ufnge of a poliflicd people. One of
the oldcft remains of Perfian literature is the tamous Sha Nama, orhif-
tory of kings, a long heroic poem of Ferduli. Sadi, an excell(>nt and
entertaining morolilt, writes in profe mingled with verle, like feveralof
the Icelandic fagas.

Hafix is the Anacreon of the caft, and his t(Mnb is venerated in the vi-
cinity of Shiraz, being itf.lf the chofen Ihriuc of parties of plcafiire,
who proceed thither to cajoy the delicious fitnation, and oiler lib;<tions
of the rich Shirazian wine to the memory of their favourite bard, a
fpU'ndid copy of whofo works is chained to his monument. But the
fciences m general are little cultivated by the Pcrlians, who are loll in
abjc6l fupertlition, and fond believers in aftrology ; a proud fi 1 1 illry
which ci iiects the little brief dclUny of man with the vail rotation of
innumerable fni.s and worlds.

Eout^ATlON.] The education of the modern Perfians is chiefly tniii
tary ; and their grofs flatteries, and obliquity of cxpreflion, evince that
they have totally forgotten the noble fyftem of their anccllors, who in
the Hrit place taught their children to fpcak truth.

Cities.] The capital city of modem Perfia is Ifpahan. Ineliidinp
Uic i'uburbS} its circuit is computed by Chardin * at about twenty-four

tl'vi

f CbsiiJini \om. ili.

r V ■»* .'iiwjf

miicsi

PERSIA.

>4&f

miles* and the inhabitants at 600,000. It ftandson the fmall river Zen-
(Icnid, which rifes in the mountains of Yaiabat, three days journey to-
wards the north ; but Abas the Great, at a prodigious expence pierced
fome mountains about thirty leagues from H'pahan, and introduced
another ftream, fo that the Zenderud was as large during the fpring as
the Seine at Paris in the winter ; for in that feafon the melting of the
fnows, in the high ransfe of mountains, greatly fwelled the river. The
walls arc of earth, c i.< ill repaired, with eight gates, and the ftrcets
narrow, devious, an 1 ba.ily paved. But the royal fquare, and its grand
market, the palace ot the Scfi, and thole of the gr;indees, the mofques,
the public baths^ nd other edifices, are for the moll: part fplendid. The
fu'burb of lulfa, or Yulfa, is very lirge, and pofTeflcd by the Arme-
nians. The environs of Ifpahan are pleafant, and, like mcft other Per-
fian towns and cities, diverfiiied by the neighbourhood of mountains.
This capital, after the vifit of Chardin, was greatly reduced, infomuch
that a Perfian merchant afferted to Mr. Hanway that not albove five thou-
fand houfes were inhabited, having been taken and plundered by the Af-
gansin 1722.

The fecond city, at lead in fame, is Shiraz, which has been recently
vifitcd aad Sefcribed. This capital of Farfillan, or Perils, is fituated in
a fertile valley, about twenty-fix nnles in length and twelve in breadth,
bounded on all fides by lofty mountains : the circuit of the city is about
four miles, furrounded with a wall twenty-five feet high, and ten thick,
with round towers at the diitance of eighty paces. 'I'he city is bui't of
brick ; and before it is a great fquare, witha park of miierable artillery.
The niofque of the late Kerimis fplendid but unfiniflied. The tomb of
Ihtiz is on the N.E. fide, about two miles diilant from the walls ; and at
tiie foot of the mountains, in the fame direction, is the tomb of Sadi, with
i iTinarkablc clnnnel tor water Iiollowed in the rflrk. Many fummer
liuufes w^th gardens, in the vicinity of Sliiraz, were built by the late
rtgent Kerim, the plantationw being av( iuies of cyprefs and fycamorc,
leading to parterres of flowers, and r(.frelh.'d with foimtaina. The neigh-
bouring fields are fertile in rice, wlu^at ?ud b.irley, the harveft beginning
ill May, and ending in the middle of July. Provifions are cheap, and the
mutton excellent. The famous linries of Fars now yield greatly to thofe
of Diilli Ti4lan, a province to the S. W. At Shiraz there is a glafs
manufadory ; but woollen goods and filkr. are brought from Yezd and
Kcrman, ct)ppcr from Tauriz, fword-bhidcs from Kom. Abu Shehar, or
Bulheer, fupplies Indian articles. The climate of this celebrated city is
dilicioHs, particularly in the fpring, v.hen numerous flowers perfume the
air; and the boolbul, or oriental niohiingule, tlie goldfinch, linnet, and
other warblera, delight tlic car *.

Having thus briefly dcfcribcd the two mofl celebrated cities, the others
Hiall be mentioned in a geograpljical progrcls from the north, beginning
with thofe of wcllorn Pt rfia. TefHiz, tlie capital '^f Georgia, is a large
and populous town, but meanly built, riling from the river Kur along
the fide of a hill f. 'I'here are fine fprings rf liot water, a favourite refort
of the inhabitants. The chief trade is in furs, fent to Turkey and the
fouth of Pcrfia. The pi-efent circuit is about two Englifh miles, and it
is fuppofcd to contain 20,000 inhabitants, more than half bi ing Arme-
nians j;. It mull not be forgotten that during the late confufion \n Perfia,
Georgia has effected at Icall a temporary independence, fupported by

* Fniikliii, pallia),

f Touriicrort, li. 9Q'j,

ElIU, Moinoir, p. 4 9i
ilunia }

M -

4^2

PERSIA.

Raflia ; fd thiit the dominion of prince Heraclius is only nominally in.
eluded within the Perfian boundslty*

Derbent was formerly a place of noted ftrength on the Cafpian fea
btft was taken by Peter the Great of Ruflia» and afterwards by Ca'
tharine II. in 1780. Gmelin vifit»d this city a few years before, and
defcribes it as fituated on the fide of a mountain, extending almoil to
the fea. The fliores are unfit for anchorage, fo that there is little com.
merce, except in land with Ghilan principally in faffron. Th% gardens
near the town are productive of excellent grapes, and moft kinds of
'European fruits.

Weftward, on the Tnrkifli frontier, ftands the city of Erivan, of
confiderable extent, and the capital of Perfian Armenia, but the houfea
are meanly built, like moll of thofe in Perfia *. Provifions are plentiful
and ffood wine is produced in the neighbourhood. After repeated'
contelts with the Turks, the Perfians have remained mailers of Erivan
fmce i6:{C. Not far to the S.W. is the celebrated Armenian monaftery
of the Tm » Churches : and the noted mount Ararat, which may be
regarded as a kind of frontier between the Turkifh and Perfian do-
minions, rifes about thirty miles to the fouth of Erivan.

The province of Aderbijan contains few places of note except Tebriz
•r Tauriz, a confiderable city, which was however greatly injured by an
eaithquake toward the beginning of the lad century. The bazars, or
market places, and other public edifices^ are grand and fpacious ; and
it is faid that the great fquare has held thirty thoufand men drawn up in
order of battle. In the neighbourhood there are quarries of white marble ;
and there was a mine of gold, now abandoned ; but copper is ftili
wrought. Being fituated on the weft fide of the great Caucafian roafs
of mountains, on which the fnow remains for nine months of the year,
the climate is extr^ely cold, but dry and healthy.

The Cafpian provinces of Ghilan and Mazendran prefent their capitals,
Raflit and Sari. The former, though the refidence of an independent
Khan has neither walls nor gates, but is the feat of confiderable com>
merce, and the number of houfcs may amount to two thoufand. The
palace of the Khan was compofed of feveral large pavilions, arranged
in the form of a fquare, and communicating with each other by hand-
fome galleries. In tlte midft was a garden with fountains, and behind
was the haram with another garden, the apartments being richly fur-
nifhed with tapeftry, mirrors, and other elegant articles. Rafht is the
ftaple of the ulk, which is produced in great abundance in this pro-
vince. Sari, the refidence of the Khans of Mazendran, is of fmall ac-
count, when compared with Afchraif, a favourite refidence of Abaithe
Great ; its fplendid palaces and gardens have however become ruinoui
fince the conamotions that followed the death of Nadir.

On returning towards the S.W., there appears Biftam, a fmall city on
the north of the great faltdefert, rarely vifited by travellers ; and to tlie
W., Chover or Khavar, with a pafs ot the fame name, through a branch
of the Caucafian mountains of Mazendran, which is preferred to the paf-
fage through the dcfert. Kom or Kums was vifited by Chardin, who
in travelling from Sava pafTed a wide plain, with a hill in the middle called
the mountain of the Talifman. He reprefents Kom as a confiderable
city at the foot of high mountains, and near a river which is lod in the
great fait defert. Tlu: houfes were computed at fifteen thoufand ; and the

• Toumcfurt, ii. a>j.

cliitf

PERSIA.

4^3

thief m&nufiift.ures were white earthen ware, foap, arid fword blades.
Here are the fuperb tombs of Sefi I. and Abas II.

Towards the Turkifh frontier, one of the largeft rivers of Perfia^ thfc
Ahwaz, or ancient Choafp«s, flows into the Tigris ; but thoiigh the an-
cient Sufa decorated its banks, the moderti towns of Kiab and Ahwaz are
«f fmall account.

The celebrated Perflan gulph has been always more remarkable for the
faAories of foreigners, than for native eftablifliments. Bander Abafli was
a port oppofite to the iile of Ormus, or rather on the coaft between
Ormus and Kiflimifli, or Kiflima, and is now more commonly known
by the name of Gombroon. The trade, once confiderable, is now greatly
declined ) and even the Dutch left it, and fettled in the ifle of Rarek or
Garak. The French Indian commerce has failed ; and the Englifli ftaplc
is BuiTora.

In the fmall ifle of Ormus, at the entrance of the Perflan gulph, wat
formerly a celebrated mart of Portuguefe trade, eftabliftied there by con-
fent of the petty king of the country, who alfo poflefled fome diftriAs oa
the oppofite coaft. Btit the Po-luguefe were expelled by Abas the Great,
with the alfiftance of the Eaglifh, A.D. 1622.

The province of Kerman contains a city of the fame name ; but fome
late authors reprefent Yezd as the capital, though generally fuppofed to
belong to the province of Fars. This city is cekbrated for the manufac-
ture of carpets, and llufls made of camel hair: but the chief manufa6lures
•f carpets are in the fertile vale of Segiftan, in eaftern Perfla.

In paffing to the eaftern diviflon, or kingdom of Candahar, it may be
proper to obferve that Cabul, the metropolis, is fltuated within the limits
of Hindoftan ; but Candahar is by D'Anville and others afcribed to Per<
fia, being however a city of fmall flze, and chiefly memorable as the grand
paflage between thefe extenflve empires.

The dominion of Zemaun Shah comprifes a conflderable portion of
Cora(an. The city of Herat ftarids on a fpacious plain iuterfed^ed with
many rivulets, which, with the bridges, villages, and plantations, delight
the traveller, fatigued in pafling the eaftern deferts of Afganiftan, or the
country of the Afgans *. It is a fmall^r city than Candahar, but
maintains a refpedsible trade, and proviflons are cheap and abundant.
Some European goods pafs hither from the gulph . of Perfla ; but
toarfe ilrong woollens are manufa£lured in the adjacent diftri^ls. This
city was the capital of Corafan, till the flrft Sefl of Perfla transferred
this rank to the northern city of Mefliid, which contained the tomb of
Muza, his fuppofed anceftor, and one of the twelve great Imams of
Perfia.

Edifices.] In the recent dcfolation of the country many of the moft
fplcndid edifices aire become ruinous, and among others the palace of
A.' ref in Mazendran. The late Kerim has however decorated Shiraz
with many beautiful buildings. He alfo improved the roads in the vi-
cinity ; but in Perfla, which may, as CharcKn obfcrvcs, be called a coun-
try of mountains, the roads are not only difficult, but kept in bad
repair f.

Manufactures akdcommeiice.] The manufactures and commerce
ttf this great country may be faid to be annihilated, though a few carpets
ilill reach Europe at extravagant prices. Even the trade with the

• ForAfr, H. m.

t The ctufry of A)>ti die Great U • nuble utonumcDt, txteudiug aluut aoo B. m\\e»
M dw S, Uic Calpiau. HaaN»yi H9»,

7 Rufllaai

464

PERSIA.

Ruffians on the Cafpian is of fmall account, confifling of fait and naphtha
from Baku, and fome filk from Shirvan, called by tlie lluirims Shamakia
but chiefly from Ghilan, where there is a Ruifian conful at Enfeli or
Sinlili. The Perfian merchants alfo brinpr goods to BaUVufii, the largefl
town in Ma/.endran, where they trade with thefe of Ruilla.

That intelligent but prolix traveller, Chardin, has given an ample vievr
of the Perfian manufaftures and commerce in the fcventeenth century.
Embroidery was carried to the greatell perfection, in cloth, filk, and
leather. Earthenware was made throughout Perlia ; bat the beft at
Shira»:, Mefhid, Yezdi and particularly beautiful at Zarand, which
equalled the Chinefe porcelain in fiinenefs and tranfparency : the fabric
was fo hard as to produce lalHng mortars for grinding various fub-
fiances*. That of Yezd, which Chardin places in Kirman, was noted
for its lightnefs. The manufafture of leather and fhagreen were alfo
excellent f ; and they excelled in braziery, uiing the tin of Sumatra to
line the veflels. The bows of Perfia were the moft eftcemed of all in
the eaft, and the fabrcs finely damaflced, in a manner which Chardin thinks
inimitable in Europe ; for, not contented with their own mines of fteel
they imported it 'from India, and wrought it in a particular manner
defcribed by our author. Their razors, and other works in Heel, were
alfo laudable ; and they excelled in cutting precious Hones, and dyeinr
bright and lalling colours. Their cotton and woollen clolhp, and thofe
niade of goats and camels' hair, with their filks, brocades, and velvets,
were fuperior manufactures. The carpets, as already mentioned, were
chiefly from the province of Segiilan ; and Chardin adds, that in his time
they were called Turkey carpets, bccaufe they were brought to Europe
through that country ; and were valued by the number of threads in
the inch, being fometimes fourteen or fifteen. Tlie llufi's made of camels'
hair were chiefly from Kirman, and thofe of goats' hair from the moun-
tains of Mazendran, but the cottou cloths principally from Hindollan ;
and the fabric of broad cloth was unknown and fupplicd by a kind of feh.

The king himfilf was engaged in merchandize of filk, brocades,
carpets, and jewels ; probably with as little advantage to the country
as the royal monopolies in Spain. The ftandard native merchandize
was ..Ik of various qualities. To Hindofian were fent tobacco, pre-
fervcd fruits, cfpecially dates, wines, horfes, porcelain, and leather of
different colours. To Turkey* tobacca and kitchen utenfils : to Rullia,
manufaftured filks. Such were formerly the manufadures and com-
merce of this extenfive country.

:iu»;.

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL GLOGRAPIIY.

Climate. — Face of the Country. — Soil ani Agriatllure. — Rivers. — Lalet.

— Mountxilns.-^ Deferts . — Forrjls. — Botany. — Zoology .—- Mineralogy.

— Mineral IVaters. — Natural Curlfitles. — IJlcs.

C ATP 1 TJERSIA has been faid to be a country of three climates ;
V,LIM .J ^ jj^^ pypj^ jjj ^jj^ fouth the high mountains contribute to

allay the extreme heat. The northern provinces on the Cafpian are com*

• rhtrdin.iv s<3.

f TUe pio^wi' tejui i»/"ffrin, from the Pcifiaa wtrd Sagri. Chard,. iv. 24fl.

paratively

PERSIA.

^6$

paratively cold and moift ; the exhalations from that fea being arrefted
by the mountains to the fouth of Mazendran. In the centre of the
kingdom Chardin obferves that the winter begins in November, and
continues till March, commonly fevere, with ice and fnow. From March
to May high wmds are frequent ; but thence to September the air is
ferene, refreftied by breezes in the night. From September to November
the winds again prevail. In the centre and fouth the air is generally dry,
thunder or lightning are uncommon, but hail is often deftru£live in the
fpring. Near the Perfian gulf the hot wind called Samiel fometimes
fuffocates the unwary traveller.

Face op the country.] Perfia may be called a country of moun.
tains ; and where great plains occur they are generally defert. The
moft remarkable feature of the country is the want of rivers ; in which
rcfpeA it yelds to all the Afiatic regions, fave Arabia. Except in
the north, and fome parts of the weftern mountains, even trees are un-
common ; and the reiped paid by the Perfian monarchs to planes, and
other trees of diffufe (hade, is no matter of furprize. Confidered in a
general fcale, one of the moft fingular features of the country is its
divifion into two parts by deferts and mountains : a circumftance which ^
in all ages, as already explained, has greatly influenced it^ hiftory and
deftinies.

Soil and agriculture.] The fbil may be regarded as unfertile,
and even the valleys are fometimes fandy and ftony, or of a hard dry
clay ; both unproduftive if not well watered. Hence the chief induftry
of the Perfian^armer is employed in watering his lands. Thefe remarks
however muft be reftri£^ed to the central and fouthern provinces ; for
tliofe in the north are fufficiently rich and fertile.

The molt common grain of Perfia is wheat, which is excellent ; but
rice is a more univerfal aliment, and regarded by the Perfians as the moft
deliciouo of food *. It is generally produced in the northern or beft
watered provinces. Barley and millet are alfo fown. The plough is
fmall, and the ground merely I'cratched. After which the fpade is alfo
iifed, to form the ground into fquares, with ledges or little banks to
retain the water. The dung is chiefly human^ and that of pidgeons
mingled with earth, and preferved for two years to abate its heat.

Rivers.] The noble ftreams of the Euphrates and the Tigris can
fcarcely at any period be confidered as ftriftly Perfian, though Ctefiphon,
the capital of the Partliian monarchy, and Seleucia, ftood on the latter
river. The river of Ahwaz rifes in the mountains of Elwend, and pur«
fites a fouthern courfe till one branch enters the Tigris above its junc-
tion with the Euphrates, while the main Itream flows mto the eftuary of
thefe conjun6t rivers. This feems to be the Gyndea of Herodotus,
now, according to D'Anville, called the Zeindeh, and by the Turks
Karu Sou, or tlie Black river. The courfe of this ftream, one of the
mod confiderable in Perfia, little exceeds 400 B. miles.

From the range of mountains on the N.E. feveral rivers of fliort
courfe fall into the Perfian eulf, one of th^ moft confiderable being
the Rud or Divrud, which joins the mouth of that crulf. The rivers
of Mekran are of more confiderable courfe, as the Krenk and Mek-
Ihid, which, conjoined« form the river of Mend, fo called from a
town by which it pafl'cs. The Haur and the Araba are of fmall con-
fec^uence, except that the latter ferves as a nominal boundary towarda
Hindoftan.

* Ckartlin, iv. 339.

'iS

.'i..t. -•«>.«

466

PERSIA.

I! ^

In the N.E. the large river of Gihon, better ftyled Amu, to avoid
the confufed fimilarity with another large river, the Siiion, rather be-
longs to Independent Tatary, with its numerous tributary dreams* ex-
cept the Margus or Margab, called alfo the Mourgab, which however
in the opinion of D'Anville and La Rochette, is rather loft in the
fands. To the W., the river of Tedjen or Tedyen, the ancient Ochus
flows into the Caflian; which alfo receives many fmall ftreams from
the mountains of Mazendran. D'Anville afligns a very confidcrable
courfe to the river of Kizil Ozen, or Seeiid Rud, which he derives
from the mountain of Elvrend, not far to the N. of Hamadan ; fo that
fcy a very winding courfe to the Cafpian, its length doubles what is af-
iigned in more recent maps. This river is the Mardus of antiquity, and
muft be the Swidura of Gmehn, rifirg on the confines of Turkey, and
falling into the fea below Langorod *. It produces numerous pike, carp
and other kinds of filh, efteemed by the Perfians : Gmelin fays that it
abounds in fturgeons.

Farther to the N. the large river Aras, the ancient Araxes, falls into
the Kur or Cyrus, both rifing in the Caucaflan mountains, and purfuinr
a courfe of extreme rapidity. The Kur abounds with fturgeon and
other large fifh ; and at its mouth are feveral ifles, liable to be over*
flowed in the fpring •{•

The central rivers of Perfia remain to be mentioned, moft of which
are foon loft in fandy defcrts, but deferve attention from their hiftorica)
celebrity. The Zenderud rifes in the weftern chain of Elwend, and
pafles by Ifpahan, beyond which capital its courfe is foon loft in
the fand : this river feems to have been the fecond Gyndes of the
ancients.

But the moll important river in this quarter is that which pafles be.
tween Shiraz and Iftakar, or the celebrated ruins of Perfepolis, called
the Bundamir, and fuppofed to be an ancient Araxes. This celebrated
river flows itito a fait lake called Baktegan, and which alfo receives a
confiderable ftream from the N.E. called the Kuren J. Between thefe
two rivers a branch of the mountains of Elwend extends S.E., on the
weftern fide of which ftaiid the ruins of Perfepolis.

The largeft and moft remarkable inland river is the Himmend of the
province of Segittan, which rifes from two widely feparated fources, one
m the mountains of Gaur, a part of the Hindoo Koh, and the other
far to the S. from the mountains of Gebelabad. Thefe ftreams join not
far to the E. of Boft, whence the river purfues a wefterly courfe, and,
according to the account of Otter ^, divides into many branches, which
are loft m the central defcrts of Perfia. Our geographers, on the
contrary, fuppofe tiiat the Hinmcnd pafles by Zareng into the fea of
Zereh.

Lakes.] Among the lakes of Perfia, the moft confiderable beyond
all comparifon is the Aria Palus of antiquity. This large lake is in the
weftern part of the province of Segiftan, and is called in the French
maps the lake of Zer6, from a village of that name nbar its weftern
extremity ; but in the Englifh the fea of Durra, from another village
lituated on a river at the diftance of twenty miles from tiie lake : the

* WtovCtKti'n RuflVii, ii. 37;l. See alfo Hanway, i. 179, and 375, whnre thurirrrii
called Sefietrud. Then is a bar at (he etitrame, but • ronfiderable depth within.

t Gmelin, ih. 3.16.

X This rivci \jk Ruchctte, in his elegnnt map oP the marches of Alexander, fuppofei
was the Mcdus, ami perhaps a Mardus of the anricnts.

I Voyape en Turkic «t en Prrlo. Paris, 1748, a vols. lamo. toaae i. 317.

« length

PERSIA.

407

length is thirty leagues, by a day's journey in breadth; and the water
isfrefh and full of fifh.

The fait lake of Baktegan, about fifty miles E, of Shiraz, receives,
as already mentioned, the rivers of Kuren and Fundamir. It is re-
prefented ifl the maps as about forty B. miles in length, and the breadth
about ten ; but the imperfedion of Perfian geography affords no farther
information.

Far to the N.W. appears the large lake of Urmia, fo called from a
town near its piuthern extremity. This lake is reprefented as about fifty
B. mites in length, by about half the breadth, and is faid to be confide-
rably impregnated with fait, and the neighbouring mountams were re-
markable as the feats of the aiFaflins. The lake of Erivan, about 1 20
B. miles to the N., is about twenty-five leagues in circumference, with a
fmall ifle in the middle ; it abounds in carp and trout; and is the Lych-
nites of Ptolemy *.

Mountains.] The precife and exaft knowledge of mountains, parti-
cularly of the direfiion and extent of the chief ranges, which, with
their fide branches, often refemble the leading bone of a fi(h, having
been one of the moft recent improvements even m European geography ;
it cannot be expe6led that the Oriental fhould afipire to much exadnefs
in this topic, and in the prefent inftance early travellers are unanimous in
reprefenting Perfia as a plain country, fo blind were they to the moft
ilriking obje£ls around them f

The firft obje£^, even in a (hort account of the Perfi£i mountains, mull:
be to trace the dire£^ion of the chief chains. It is clear, from the accu-
rate defcription of Gmelin, that the Caucafian ridge extends to the weft
of Ghilan and fouth of Mazendran, till it expire in Corafan, on the
S.E. of the Cafpian fea.

The fouthernmoft chain, of great height, is defcribed by Mr. Franklin
as running parallel with the Perfian gulf, N.W. and S E., at about the
dillance of ;o B. miles.

A third range of mountains, of very great height, feems to continue
in the fame diredion with this laft, to the S. of the lake of Urmia,
where it is connefted with the Caucafian ridge. This is the grandeft
range of mountains in Perfia. ^

A parallel ridge on the W., called by the Turks Aiagha Tag, is
fappofed to be the Zagros of the ancients, which feparated Affyria
from Media :^. This weftern chain feems to extend to the lake of
Van, for mount Ararat is reprefented as ftanding folitary in the midft
of a wide plain, and from proximity might rather be claifed with the
range of Caucafus.

Hetzardara, or the thoUfand mountains, form a branch on the north
of Pars ; and one pert of it, which gives rife to the river of Ifpahan, is
called Koh Zerdeh, or the Yellow mountain.

The province of Fars is reprefented by fome writers as feparated from
Kerman by mountains ; but the real barrier is a defert of fand, extending
(irom the S. of the lake of Baktegan to the proximity of Zarang, and
connected with the great defert which divides Perfia into two parts*
Nor are there any mountains of confequence in the eaft of Fars. A low
range, called Meder by D'Anville, pafles N.£. through the heart of
Kemian ; while that country, is divided from Mekran by a range in the

* Chardin, ii. 332. Tournef. ii. 3)6.

t See tbe Perfia among the Elievir Republtci, 1633, 19ino.

i D'Anville, Anc. Ucog. ii. 463.

Hha

fiune

468

PERSIA.

fame direAion, called by D' Anville Kofez. Some other namelefs rangei
crofs Mekran iq the fame dire£tion, that neareil Hindoftan being caUed
by Rochette the Lakhee mountains.

Farther to the N. the mountains of Wulli extend from the neighbour,
hood of Shatzan acrofs to the lake of Vachind, and may tfius be con-
fidered as forming one range with that on the N. of Mcckran, called
Gebelabad by La Rochette. This range however expires in the great
defert to the S. of Zarang.

In the E. of Segillan is a ridge N. and S. called Sohman Koh, or the
mountains of SoHman. It is probable that there are mountains of con-
fiderable height on the N. and W. of the fea of Zurra ; one of which is
called Berlhek and another Ouk, the former being noted for a fire tern-
pie, the refort of the Guebers.

Deserts.] The deferts muft not be paffed in complete filence
though few words may fuffice. On the eaft of Tigris, lat. 33^, a con-
fiderable defert commences, which is pervaded by the river of Afliwaz
and extends to the N. of Skufter. This defert may be about 140 B. miles
in length, E. to W., and the breadth about 80. It is now chiefly pof.
fefTed by the wandering tribe of Arabs called Beni Kiab, a people who,
like the defert, are not a little obfcure *.

The great faline defert extends from the neighbourhood of Kom
to that of the fea of Zurra, in a line from E. to W. of about 400 B. miles :
the breadth from N. to S. may be 250 : but in the latter quarter it may
be faid to join with the great defert of Kerman by the Nauben Dejian,
which extends about 350 miles. Thefe two extenfive deferts may thus
be confidered as ftretching N.W. and S.E. for a fpace of about 700
miles, by a medial breadth of about 200 (even not including in the
length other 200 miles of the defert of Mekran) ; thus interfering this
wide empire into two nearly equal portions, as before explained. This
vaft extent is impregnated with nitre and other falls, which taint the
neighbouring lakes and rivers ; but its natunJ hiftory has not been in.
veiligated with the precifion of modern knowledge. In the S. of Me.
kran, and towards the Indus, are other deferts of great extent.

A third great defert, that of Karakum, or the Black Sand, formi
the northern boundary of Corafan and modern Pcrfia ; but the defcrip.
tion more properly belongs to Tatary.

Forests.] The Perlian forefts are unhappily redrifted to a few fpots
in Corafan, the mountains of Mazcndran and Ghilan, and thofe towards
Kurdiilan. But timber is chiefly fnpplied by Mazcndran, which thence
receives a name lignifying the land of axes.

Botany.] An accurate account of the indigenous vegetables of
Perfia yet remains a dclideratum in the fcieiice of botany ; the pro-
<du£tions of the eallcrn and fouth-eallern provinces are aloioit wholly
unknown to us, and the flight acquaintance that we have with thofe
on the fliores of the Cafpiaii and the frontiers of Ruffia is for the
mod part derived from the fliort and imperfedt notices that occur in
the travels of Pallas and Gmelin in the neighbourhood of the Caf.
{)inM.

A confiderable part of the Perfian territory, efpecially on the fide
of Great Tatary, appears to be occupied by fait deferts : thefe are for
the mott I art deitituteof trees, and fuppert hardly any plcnts, except
fuch uf the faline fucculent kind as are alfo found on the fea-lhore.

Of the high mountains, as far as they h:^ve been examined, we arr

* l^tc Niebuhr ; but this tribe feems rather to tl« S. uf the defert.
II

pnly

PERSIA.

469

only informed in general that their vegetable inhabitants are for the mod
part the fame as thofe bbferved on the Alps of Swifferland and Italy.

The plants of the hills and cultivated parts adjoining the Cafpian fea
are better known to us, and from the few whofe names we are already in
poffeflion of, it is eafy and reafonable to infer the prefence of many more
tliat are ufually obferved to accompany them. On the mountainous
ridges are found the cyprefs, the cedar, and feveral other kinds of pines,
while the lower hills and fears of rock are (haded and adorned with lime
trees, oaks, acacias, and chefnuts ; the fumach, whofe aftringent wood
is fo eifential to the arts of dyeing 'and tanning, grows here in vaft
abwdance ; and the manna afh-tree is fcarcely lefs common. The
moft efteemed of the cultivated fruits of Europe are truly indigenous in
Perfia, and have probably hence been diffuled over the whole weft.
Thefe are the fig, the pomegranate, the mulberry, the almond, peach,
and apricot. Orange trees alfo of an enormous fize, and apparently
wild, are met with in the fheltered parts of the mountains ; and the deep
;yarm fand on the fliore of the Cafpian is peculiarly favourable to the
culture of the citron and the liquorice. The vine grows here in great
luxuriance ; and farther to the fouth both cotton and fugar are articles of
common cultivation. Poplars of unufual fize and beauty, and the
weeping willow, border the courfe of the ftreams, and the marfiiy
trafts abound with a peculiar kind of ru(h that forms the material of
the fine Perfian matting. The ornamental (hrubs and herbaceous plants
of this country are but little known ; four of them however, from their
abundance and beauty, give an air of elegance to the country, efpe-
ciallyinthe eyes of ^n European, fuperior to that of any other region ;
thefe are the jafmiiie and the blue and fcarlet anemona in the thickets,
and the tulip and ranunculus in the paftures.

Zoology.] According to Chardin, the Perfian horfes are the moft
beautiful even in the eaft ; but in fpeed they yield to the Arabian, which
are lefs diftinguif>ed by elegance of form. The Perfian fteeds are rather
taller than the faddle hordes in England ; the head fmall, the legs de-
licate, and the body well proportioned ; of a mild difpofition, very la-
borious, lively, and fwift. Tatarian horfes are alfo ufed,'of lower ftature and
not foVell formed as the Perfian, but more capable of enduring fatigue *.
Mules are alfo in confiderable requtft ; and the afs refemblcs the European,
but a breed of this animal is brought from Arabia, which is excellent,
the hair being fmooth, the head high, while it moves with fpirit and agility.
The camel is alfo common, but not admitted into the province of Mazen-
dran, where they eagerly eat the leaves of box, though to them a rank
poifon. The Perfian cattle refemble the European, except towards Hin-
(loftan, where they are marked by the hunch on the flioulders. Swine
are fcarce, favein the N.W. provinces. Of the large tailed fheep that
appendage fometimes weighs more than thirty pounds, enlarging at the
bottom in the form of a heart. The flocks are moft numerous in the
northern provinces of Erivan, or the Perfian part of Armenia and Balk.
The few foreft^ contain abundance of deer and antelopes ; while the
mountains prefent wild goats. Hares are common in the numerous waftes.
The ferocious animals are chiefly concealed in the forefts, as the bear and
boar, the lion in the weftern parts, with the leopard, and, according to
fome accounts, the fmall or common tiger. Seals occur on the rocks of
the Cafpian. The wild afs is found in the central deferts; but the hyena
and chakal belong to the louthern provinces. The feas abound with fi(h

• Chardin, iv. 72.

Hh3 if

470

PERSIA.

of various defcriptions ; the Cafpian difplays {lurffeon and fome kindred
fpecies, with a Tat and delicious kind of carp, figeons are particularly
numerous ; and the partridges are uncommonly large and excellent.
The boolbul, or oriental nightingale, enlivens t^c f^ v-.^r;.? with his varifd
fong. The Perfians have been long accuftomed c> '..-.me beafts of prey,
fo as to hunt with leopards, panthers, and ounces ^

Mineralogy.] The mineralogy of this exte^.nvc country fetms
neither various nor important, though the numerous mountain: probably
abound with unexplored treafurcs. The lead mines of Kerman and Yezd
produce the ufual mixture of filver. In the northern provinces there
are many mines of iron, but the metal is harih and brittle. Copper is
chiefly found in the mountains of Mazendran and near Cafbin ; but is
brittle, and commonly mingled by the melters with a twentieth part of
the .Tapanefe or Swedifh.

The only precious ftone yet difcovered feems to be the turkoife, which
has indeed almoft ceafed to be regarded as fuch, being only bone or ivory
tinged with copper. There are two mines of this fubftance, one at
Nilbapour in Corafan, and another about four days journey to the S. of
the Cafpian, in the mountain called Feruzkoh. Pearls abound, as is well
known, in the Perfian gulf, efpecially near the ifles of Bahrin on the
Arabian fide. Some will weigh fifty grains ; but thofe are efteemed
large which weigh from ten to twelve grains.

Chardin adds, that fulphur and nitre are found in the mountain of
Demavcnd, which he places on the fouth of Hyrcania or Mazendran.
Sometimes whole deferts are covered with fulphur, and others with fait,
which near Cafhan is remarkably pure. Rock fait is found near Kpa-
han ; and in the dry climate of Kerman it is even employed in building

Medical waters.] Medical waters of various defcriptions abound
in this mountainous country ; but they are generally alike negle£ted by
the phyficians and the people.

Natural curiosities.] Among the chief natural curiofities muft
be named the fountains of naphtha, or pure rock oil, in the neighbour.
hood of Baku, on the vreftern coaft of the Cafpian, particularly in the
adjoining promontory of Afhberoti. The land is dry and rocky, and
there are feveral fmall ancient temples, in one of which, near the altar, a
large hollow cane is fixed in the ground, and from the end iflues a blue
flame, feemingly more pure and gentle than that produced by ardent
fpirits f . From an horizontal gap in an adjoining rock there alfo iiTues
a fimilar flame.

" The earth round this place for above two miles has this furprifing
property, that, by taking up two or three inches of the furface, and
applying a live coal, the part which is fo uncovered immediately
takes fire, almoft before the coal touches the earth : the flame makes the
foil hot, but does not confume it, noi affeA what is near it with any
degree of heat.

*• If a cane or tube, even of paper^ be fet about two inches in the
ground, confined and clofe with the earth below, and the top of it
touched with a live coal and blown upon, immediately a flame iflues,
without hurting either the cane or paper, provided the edges be covered
with clay ; and this method they ufe for light in their houfes, which
have only the earth for the floor : three or four of thefe lighted
canes will boil water in a pot, and thus they drefs their vii^uali.
The flame may be extinguiflied in the fame manner as that of fpirits of i

Cluurdin, iv. 94.

f Hanway, i. 263.

wme.

PERSIA.

471

wine. The ground is dry and ftony, and the more ftony any particular
part is, the ftronger and clearer is the flame ; it fmells fulphureous, like
naphtha, but not very ofienfive.

«• Lime is burnt to great perfeftion by means of this phenomenon ;
the flame communicating itfelf to any diftance where the earth is un-
covered to receive it. The ftones muft be laid on one another, and in
three days the lime is completed. Near this place brimftone is dug, and
naphtha fprings are found.

«< The chief place for the black or dark grey naphtha is the fmall ifland
Wetoy, now unmhabited, except at fuch times as they take naphtha from
thence. The Perfians load it in bulk in their wretched vefleU, fo that
fometimes the fea is covered with it for lea^jues together. When the
wsather is thick and hazy the fprings boil up the higher ; and the naphtha
often takes fire on the furface of the earth, and runs in a flame into the
fea in great quantities, to a diftance almo ft incredible. In clear weather
the fprings do not boil up above two or three feet. In boiling over, this
oily fubftance takes fo ftrong a confiftency, as by degrees almoft to clofe
the mouth of the fpring ; fometimes it is quite clofed, and forms hillocks ^
that look as black as pitch : but the fpring, which is refifted in one

filace, breaks out in another. Some of the fprings which have not been
ong opened form a mouth of eight or ten feet diameter.

*' The people carry the naphtha by troughs into pits or refervoirs,
drawing it off from one to another, leaving in the firft refervoir the water,
or the heavier part, with which it is mixed when it ilFues from the fpring.
Itisunpleafantto the fmell, andufed moftly amongft the poorer fort of
the Perfians, and other neighbouring people, as we ufe oil in lamps, or
to boil their victuals, but it communicates a difagreeable taftc. They
find it burns befl with a fmall mixture of afhes, and as they procure it in
great abundance, every family is well fupplied. They keep it at a fmall
dillance from their houfes in earthen veffels, under ground, to prevent
any accident by fire, of which it is extremely fufceptible,

" There is alf© a white naphtha on the peninfula of Apcheron, of a
much thinner confiftency ; but this is found only in fmall quantities.
The Ruffians drink it both as a cordial and a medicine, and alfo ufe it as
an external application. Not far from hence are alfo fprings of hot
water, which boil up in the fame manner as the naphtha, and very thick,
being impregnated with a blue clay ; but it foon clarifies. Bathing in
this warm water is found to ftrengthen and procure a good appetite*.'*

IJhe juftly celebrated Kxmpfer had vifited thefe remarkable fprings
in the end of the feventeenth century f; and Gmelin, 1773, ^^^ added
little to the account of Hanway, except that the foil is a coarfe marie,
mixed with fand, and effervefcing with acids. There are many other
wells in an adjoining peninfula ; and the revenue arifing from this uncom-
mon produA to the khan of Baku was computed at forty thoufand
rubles J.

IsLBS.3 The few Perfian ifles in the fouthern gulf, among which the
mod remarkable are Ormuz, once famous, now abandoned ; Kiflima ;
and, towards the other extremity, Karek, from which the Dutch were
pxpelled in 1765, do not merit a particular defcription in a vvork of this
nature ; and far lefs thofe in the Cafpian feai the chief of which are on
the coaft of the Uzbeks. .». .

* Hanway, i. 363, &c.
X Dec. des RulTes, ii. 313.

•f- See his Amoen. Exot, <.

Hh4

INDE.

a '-\

( 473 )

INDEPENDENT TATAR Y. *
CHAPTER 1.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Name. — Chief Divljiom. — Progreffive Geography. — Connexion vu'tth Little
Bueharia, and Revietu of the ancient and modern Geography of that
Country.

THE clefcriptions already given in this volume of Afiatic Ruffia and
the Chinefe empire comprife the far greater part of what geogra-
phers denominated Tartary, by a vague term applied to a country ex-
ceeding all Europe in extent, and pouefled by various and diftinA nations
and races of men.

By repeated viftorics over the Eluts and Kalmuks of Mongolia, the
Chinefe dominion has been extended to the mountains of Belur, thus in-
eluding Little Bueharia; while in the E. Mandfhuii^i remained fubjeft to
its fovereigns, who had become emperors of China.

Name 3 The title of Independent Tatary becomes however unexcep-
tionable, when confined to the bounds of the prefent defcription, for the
Uzbeks and Kirgufes are of undoubted Tatar origin ; and their country
muft ftill be regarded as independent of the great neighbouring powers,
China, Ruflia, and Pcrfia.

Extent.] The extent of territory poflefled by thcfe tribes may be
meafured from the Cafpian fea to the mountains of Belur, a fpace of not
lefs than 870 B. miles. From the mountains of Gaur in the loiith to the
Ruflian boundaries on the north of the defert of Iflim, may be near 1500
B. miles ; but of this length a great part is defert.

Divisions.] The chief divifions are the wide ilepps or barren plains in
the N., held by three hordes of Kirgufes, the Great, Middle, and Leffer j
witli fome fmall Tataric tribes near the fea of Aral. This portion wa«
anciently called Weftern Turkiftan ; the capital being Taraz, on a Iheam
^vhich flows into the Sirr, or Sihon, not far above Otrar, and which was
alfo fometimes denominated Turkiilan from the name of the country.

To the S. of the mountains of Argun the land begins to fertilize along
the courfc of the Sirr, Sirt, or Sihon, the laxartes of the ancients, alio
called the river of Shafh from the chief territory ;' and on the banlis of in
tributary llreams, which devolve from the Argun on thv. N. and the Ak
Tau or White mountain on the S., while the river itfelf fprings from the
mountains of Belur. Ilak and Shafh, the moit northern provnicesonthe
Sihon, are followed by Fergana, and a oiftrifl called Oruflina, round a
town of the fame name. Divided from thefe provinros by deferts ami
mountains, the kingdom of Khari/m, formerly lo powerful as to oppofe
the Great Zingis, has gradually yielded to the encroaching d?fcrt.

To the S. of the range of the Ak Tau appears the fertile region of
Sogd, the ancient Sogdian^i, with its capital Samarcand. On the S. the
provinces of Balk, Ktlan, Tokarellan, and Gaur, terminate the bounds
of Independent Tatary, here fcparated by drferts on the W. from the
Perlian province of Corafan. In general, Kharizm on the W. is not

TliU is thr ndigcnal, oriental, ind proper orthogrftpliv.

confidcrcd

•independent tatary.

47$

confidered as a part of Great Bucharia; but this laft appellation muft be
regarded as embracing the whole extent from the mountains of Argun
and fources of the river Ilak, to the confines of Hindoftan.

Progressive gbooraphy.] In ancient periods Weftern Turkiftan
and the north of the Cafpian, were the feats of the Maflagetae ; to the
S. of whom were the Scythians, on this fide of the Imaus or Belur Tag.
Modern Geography.] As few materials will arife for a defcription
of the prefent ftate of Independent Tatary, a country exceeding the Ger-
man empire in extent, it mav not be uninterefting to offer fome obferva-
tions on the modern geography of this country, which, to the difgrace of
fcience, remains in a wretched ftate of imperfeftion. The natural and
unavoidable connexion between the ancient Scythias on both fides of the
Imaus, and in later times between weftern and eaftern Turkiftan, Great
and Little Bucharia, will authorife and demand fome previous acauaint-
ance with the latter country, though recently fubjugated by the Chinefe,
and briefly included in the defcription of that empire.

The north-weftern province of China, called Shen-fi, prefents a remark*
able dittrifl, narrow, but of confiderable lengih, extending like a pro-
montory between the great defert on the N.E. and the Eluts of Koko
Nor on the S.W. The great wall is here low, and rudely conftruAed
of turf or hardened clay. This traft formerly belonged to the king-
dom of Tangut, being a modern addition to China.

Beyond thefe parts, which are the firft approached by the caravans,
feTcral rivers, lakes, towns, and ftations, are laid down in the maj>s by the
jefuits, as the river Etzinc, with the towns of Oucy-yuen and Chao-maing ;
and the lakes Sopou and Souhouc. To the W. runs another confiderable
river, the Polonkir, near which is tlie city of Sha-cheou, where the river
runs into a lake called Hara or Kara Nor, the Black lake.

With the fouthem boundaries and provinces of I^ittle Bucharia we are
almoft wholly unacquainted; but the weftern and northern parts are
known with more accuracy from various accounts, and from tho maps of
D'Anville and Iflenieff To avoid the difficulties of fandy deforts,
rendered almoft impaflable by broken rocks, the caravans proceed to
Hami by a circuit to the north ; where, at the bottom of the mountains
of Alak, which afford fome protedion from the piercing cold, ftand the
cities and towns of Little Bucharia, in all its features one of the moft
fmgular regions in the world.

Towns. J The cliief tr-wiis, by all accounts, are Cafhgar and Yarcand,
followed towards the N.E. by Axu or Akfu ; Chialiih, alfo called Yul-
duz, and by the Turks Karafliar, or the Black city ; and Turfan. Hami
or Carail, with its furrounding villages, is rather confidered as a detached
province, for fome ages under the proteftion of China.

H1STOIIY.3 Little Bucharia was fitbje£l to the Kalmuks, who were
recently conquered by the Chinefe. In more ancient times it was the
country of the Seres ; but was little known till the time of Zingis, after
whofe death it became the portion of his fon Zngathai. It was con-
fidered as a par'; of Moguliltan, or Mongolia ; and the northern pro-
vinces belonged to the country of Get6, in which, to the N.E. of
Turfan, were the ancient habitations of the Eygurs or Ugurs, a Finnifh
race, who fpread difmay thoughout Europe in the tenth century, and
afterwards fettled in Hungary. The late wife and benevolent emperor
of China, Kiang Long, or Chen Lung, made repeated vilits to Mon-
golia, ;n order to overawe the Kalmuks, the -^loft dangerous ncigiibouri
of tlie vT-npire, by the difplay of fuperior power. Jn i7;9 he tonj-
pletvly vanquifhcu thvfe people, and thuk annexed a vaft territory to hit

dominion}.

-m

¥r:

■\^ ' n

,4^. i4*-'^U -;

474

INDEPENDENT TATARYf

dominions. Independently- of the regions to the north, the extent f
Little Bucharia. as it is abfurdly named, from the confines of Hami t*
the mountains of Belur, is more than i ooo B. miles : and the breadtl
from the mountains of Tibet to thofe of Alak, more than 500. '

Religion.] The prevailing religion is the Mahometan, for the Kal
muk conquerors, though they retained their idolatry, were tolerant

The population cannot be cxtenfive, and is fuppofed chiefly to confid
of original Bucharians, who are defcribed as of a fwartliy complexion
thoUf^h fome be very fair and of elegant forms. They are faid to be
polite and benevolent, and their language is probably that cilled the
Zagathian, which is the fame with the Turkifh, that fpee^ h havin? fun.
piloted their native tongue ; for, that the chief popidation is 01 iTJual
teems to be allowed, though there be a great mixture of Tatars, orTiir.
comans, and a few Kulmuks. The drefs of the men does not reach below
the calf of the leg, with girdles like the Polifli. The female raiment is
fimilar, with long ear-rings, like thofe of Tibet : the hair is alio worn
in very long trefles, decorated with ribbons. They tinge their Dails with
henna. Both fexes wear trowfers, with light boots of Riiflia leather.
The head-drcfs refemblcs the Turkifh. The houfes are generally of
ftone, decorated with fome Chinefe articles. They are cleanly in tlitir
food, which often conliils of minced meat ; and, hke the Ruffians, they
prcftrve their vii^^uals frozen for a confiderable time. Tea is the general
drink. The wives are p'lrchalcd ; and the ceremonies of marriage, &c.
differ little from thofe of other Mahometans, the mullahs or priells havinir
great influence. 'I'hey have fmall copper coins ; but weigh gold and
lilver like the Chinefe, with whom they maintained a confiderable com-
incrce before the Kalmiik invafion, and which is now probably more
prodirctive than ever by their union under the fame fovereign. They
are not warhke, but ufe the lance, fabre, and bow, while the rich have
coats of mail. • The coiuitry is very produdivc of many kinds of friiirc
and p.trticularly wine. They are faid to have mariy mint > of go d and
fdver, but neither the natives nor Kalmidjis had fumcient fl<ill to work
them.: on the melting of the fnows abundance of gold is found m the
torrents, which they carry to China, and even to Tobollk in Siberia.
Precious ftones, and even diamonds, are alfo found ; and one of the pre
dufts is mufk, probably from the foulhern mountains near 'i'lbet, 111
which lall country the animal aboundi. In contradiftion to the ufiial
couffe of nature, the fouthern part bordering on the vaft Alps of Tibit
is colder than the northern, which is protettc(i by the inferior ridge of
Alak. As the drefs is ciuejly cotton, it is probable that the jiuni
abounda i . the coimtry.

Such aie the chief particularities concerning this intcrcfting coun'ry to
be c«»ile(rted from the accounts above quoted. Dr. Pallas, in hii travels
in Ruflia, gives loine idea of Bucharian e<»mm( rce, in deftribing thf«'«y
of Orenburg*. But as he joins the iiucharians with tl»c people of
Khiva, he probably implies Gi.atcr Bucharia. He fee m» to mentior,
raw filk as a produt* -A the country, at> well as lamb-lkinit '/fa rrn.iU'V
ably fine kind, and the hair of ( umels.

•P«r. Ruir. iii. laa.

but this fubjeftic

CHAP-

INDEPENDENT TATARY.

475

CHAPTER II.

DESCRIPTIOJI OF INDEPENDENT TATARY.

K'trgitfes. — Stepp of IJftm. — Hords. — Number. — Manners. — Drefs.-^
Trade. — Hijlory .-— Khariy.m. — Name. — Khiva. — Trade.— Great Bu-
charla. — Nephlhaltles. — Extent and Boundmr'tes. — Hijlory. — Religion.
— Manners ami Cu/iomi. — Provinces. - Cities. — Manufaitures.— Climate.
^Rivers. -Lakes. — Mountatnt - I*, ineralogy. — CharaSer of the People.

Kl ROUSES.]

A BOUT one -half of Independent Tatary is occu-
jCx pied by the Kirgufes in the north, a people of
undoubted Tataric origin, and the Uzbeks in the fouth.

Stepp of Issim.^ The great llepp, or defert of Ifiim, divides thefe
Ivirgufes from Siberia. This ftepp is interfered by a river of the fame
name ; and there are other llreams which either join that river, are loft in
the fands, or fail into extenfive lakes, for the moft part cither faline or
bitter*. Even the foil is impregnated witli fait and nitre. This exten-
five plain mult not however be regarded as a mere defert, deftitute of all
vegetation ; and it is faid that many ancient tombs occur in its wide ex-
panfe, as well as in the Barabinian ftepp, between the Irtifli and the Orb,
which laft confifts of a tolerable foil, and ^ refents feveral forefts of birch,
with the appearance of liaving been formerly a prodigious faline marfli.

On the weft of the Kirgufes there ftill remain fome tribes of Kalmuks,
though the greater part migrated from the Volga in 1770, when they
fougnt the proteftion of the Chinefe. The Kirgufes are fuppofed to be
fo called from the founder of their hord ; and have from time immemorial
been here claifed under three divilions, of Great, Middle, and Leffer,
though quite unknown to Europe till the Ruffian conqueft of Siberia,
fome tribes becoming fubit-dt to that empire in 1606 f. They are con-
fidered as faithlefs, pulUJanimous, yet reftlefs ; but the Great Hord, de-
fended by mountains ou the S. and E., alferted thtir independence in
repeated contftts with tlu Kalmuks of Soongaria. The Middle and
Little Hords have acknowledged the Ruffian fovereignty fince 1 73 1 ;
but this fubjeftion x* mt-rely nominal, for the RuHiiis are obliged to
fortify themfelves againit thefe allies. Thefe two ! >•('<« are cacli efti-
mated at thirty t'louf^tKi families; and fuppofig * . Jr*- f J-loid to
contain uxty th(>u1<<rid, arid each family fix periom*, )'» po'jj^ition oi
this wide region mui* awount to 720,000; *^»it it prouabl 1 les not
exceed hnlf a iniiiion.

Manhrks, 6cc J 'i"'he Kir^.«<e« have gradu*^
^^■ard8 tW weft. Their mani»er», tommon U
dtfcriJwd at < onfidt rabl«- length by PiilU* |
kind of felt ; tli*., Hriiik Uumifs, mad^ of ac
TbeGriat H" ii! 1 as the fourcf of th

iK«le<i near Oh mi >u ntams uf AUi, aiforKllcd A
^>> ailed th«' Alutani^n JCirp-iifrs ^. They lead * wan4*ring life,
fwH rhe hutAfti of rh* Sirr, or Syrt, near Taftikuj ■', to the

^pp «»/ ifiim. \r,Ai\t Uiird h4» »ts partirular Khan j bu 'fiddle

H^rd, /^hen P»!Im ii|«ro»thed thisrountry, was t ontontrd wU'i a Sul-
'«7 w ffftms, vyfio mim<\ to Mckaowledgc the Khan </ th Leifer

^wvpd fromii'. .>aftto-

t^» 'i'rvtars, have l).A'n

", "ii tents are of a

d nuure's milk.

two others I^ing-

Tau, this hord hat

;Dn,lluf, ill, j^;|^

FdlM oM* if tht Arpp oi HHt.

+ Took*, ii. ft.
i lb. 079.

Hord J

^i^l

ft V ' ' p I n r ' nK •'' tM

UL^ ^■dAs*^^*,^'^

746

INDEPENDENT TATARY.

Hord: and in 1777 this Khan of the Leffer Hord, whofe eleftion had
been confirmed by Ruflia, was called Nur Hall, a fenfible and equitabl
prince. Their features are Tataric, with the flat nofe and fmall eycs'
but not oblique, like thole of the Monguls and Chinefe. They have
horfes, camels, cattle, ftieep, and goats. It was aflerted that fome
individuals in the Middle Hoid had 10,000 horfes, 300 camels, 2 or
4,000 cattle, 20,000 (heep, and more than 2000 goats : while in the
Leifer Hord were proprietors of 5000 horfes, and a proportional number
of the other animals. Their dromedaries furniihed a confidtrable quan.
tity of woollv hair, which was fold to the Ruffians and Buchanans,
being ar ' ually clipped like that of (keep. Their chief food is mut-
ton, of the large tailed fort ; and fo exquifite is the lamb, that it is fent
Jrom Orenburg to Peterfburg for the tables of the palace. The lamb.
(kins are the moft celebrated after thofe of Bucharia, being damafked as
it were by clothing the little animal in coarfe linen. But the wool of
the (heep is coarfe, and only ufed in domeftic confumption for felts and
thick cloths. The ilepps fupply them with objefts of the chace, wolves,
foxes, badgers, antelopes, ermines, weazles, marmots, &c. In the
fouthern and eaftern mountains are found wild (heep, the ox of Tibet,
which fecms to delight in fnowy alps ; with chamois, chacals, tigers, and
wild affes *.

As the Kirgufians regard each other as brethren, they are obliged to
employ flaves, Dcing captives whom they take in their incurfions. Their
drefs is the common Tataric, with large trowfers and pointed boots.
The ladies ornament their heads with the necks of herons, difpofed
like horns. They appear to be Mahometans, though rather of a relaxed
creed.

Trade.] The Kirgufians carry on fome trade with Ruflia. The chief
traffic, which is wholly by exchange, is at Orenburg, but the Middle
Hord proceed to OmJk. Sheep, to tho amount of i jo,ooo, are annually
brought to Orenburg ; with horfes, cattle, lamb-llcins, camels' wool, and
camlets; fometimes they offer flavee, Perlians or Turcomans. In return
they take manufactured articles, chiefly clothes and furniture. From
Bucharia, Kliiva, and Tafhkund, they receive arms and coats of mail,
which Ruflia refufcs them, in return for camels and cattle. They are
extremely fond of the Kalmuk women, who long retain their form and
charms ; and often marry them if they will adopt the Mahometan religion,
There is an annual fefiival in honour of the dead. About the beginning
of the feventecnth century this people, who were formerly Shamanians,
became children of circumcifion, by the exertions of the priefts of Tur-
kiHan ; but Pallas, in 1769, found them addided to forcerics and other
idle fuperlUtions.

History.] Even this barren region, now inhabited by the Kirgufes,
has been the fcene of confiderable events ; and it is not improbable that
its numerous deferts and plains may formerly have been more fertile, at
lead in patturagc. The gradual deficcation, obferved in the fouthern
fteppsof Siberia, may warrant the conchifion that the hills and plains, on
the north of the Cafpian and Aral, anciently prefented more numerous
Ureaftns and rich verdure. However this be, thefe regions have been
held by fucccflivc nations of high repute, from the Maflagetae of early
times to the Turks. Thefe laft imparted liic name of Turkillan, having
migrated from their habitations near the mountains of Bogdo, adjoining
to thofe of Altai. In the fixth century thefe Turks had already fprcad

• Dec. Ruff. iji. aof,.

INDEPENDENT TATARY.

477

to the Cafpian ; while the Eygurs feem to have fucceeded them in their
original feats. They foon after fubdued the people of Sogdiana, and the
tJephthalites of Great Bucharia» called in that ignorant age White Huns.
As the Turks founded their firft weftern fettlements in Uie regions now
held by the Kirgufes, they thence received the name of Turkiilan. From
this centre of their power iffued thofe Turkilh armies which have changed
the deftinies of fo many nations. Little Bucharia was called Eaftem
turkiftan from a fimilar caufe ; but appears to have been firft fubdued
by tlie Turks of Cathay on the N.W. of China. The Turks and Huns
may be confidered as one and the fame Tataric race, totally unknown to
Europeans till the appearance of the latter, who firil pafTed the ftepps,
deferts, and mountains which had concealed them from claflical obferva-
tion till the fourth centurjr. The Huns, who appeared about A.D. 375,
b'- their peculiar features imprefTed the writers of the time as a new and
ij^iknown race, having feemingly pafTed in one courfe of depredation from
Afia to Europe ; while the Gothic and Slavonic nations had left many
of their fettlements vacant, in their progrefs into the Roman empire.
But the Turks, though originally the fame people, perhaps warned by
the fate of their brethren, made a flow and- gradual progrefs ; and appear
have been mingled by marriages and conquefts with the Slavonic and

Gothic tribes, on the N. and E. of the Cafpian. Such was the origin
of the name of Turkiftan, from which the Turks fpread defolation over
the moll beautiful countries of the eaft, and even threatened the liberties

of Europe.

Kharizm ] Before proceeding to Great Bucharia, it maybe proper
briefly to defcribe the country of Kharizm, which extends from the
Gihon or Amu to the Cafpian fea, bounded on the N. and S. by wide
deferts, the chief town being now Khiva, but anciently Urshenz. This
country is about 350 B. miles in length and breadth, and m the time of
Zingis was a powerful kingdom, but at that time included Corafan, and
a part of Great Bucharia.

At prefrnt this Hate is almoft reftriftcd to the diftriA of Khiva, the
circuit of which may be performed on horfebark in three days : but there
arc five walled cities, or rather towns, within half a day's journey of each
other *. " The khan is abfolute, and intirely independent of any other
power, except the Mulla Bafhi, or high prieft, by whom he is controlled.
The Kievinfki Tatars differ very little from the Kirgufes } but furpafs
them in cunning and treachery. Their ma"f er? ure the fame, only that
the Kirgi'^s live in tents, whilll the ethers i* habit cities and villages.
Their 0;; trade is with Bokhara and Per'!.^, whither they carry cattle,
furs, and hides, all which they have from the Kirgufes and Turkoman
Tatars, who often prove Very troublefome neighbours to them. The
place iffelf produces little more than cotton, lamb furs of a very mean
quality, and a fmall quantity of raw filk, fomc of which they manufac'
ture f" Tlie fame author informs us that the town of Khiva ftands on
a rifmg ground, with three gates, and a ftrong wall of earth very thick,
and much high T than the houfes : there are turrets at fmall diftances,
and a broad deep ditch full of water. It occupies a confiderable fpace,
and commands a plcafant profpedt of the adjacent plains, which the in<
iluilry of the inhabitants has rendered very fertile { but the houfei are
low, nioii'y built with mud, the roofs flat, and covered with earth.

Kliiva ib faid to (land at the diftaiice of feventeen days from the Cafpian

111

•fl«nwaj, i.34t.

t Ibid.

'^^ ■■■• ^ J-

478

INDEPENDENT TATARV.

fea, and from Orenburg thirty-three, computing the day's journey fortv
verfts *. In 1739 ^^^ ''^*" °^ Khiva afTembled an army of 20,000 to
oppofe Nadir ; but the city furrendered at difcretion.

Pq^Ias informs us that the people of Khiva bring to Orenburg con
fiderable quantities of raw cotton f. But the coafts of the Cafpian are
held by fome remains of Turkomans in the north, and by Uzbeks in
the fouth. The bay of Balkan is viiited by Ruffian veffels : the jfles
yield rice and cotton, and one of them, Naphthonia, a confiderable
quantity of naphthj, the bed feeming thus to pafs the fea from Baku
in a S.E. direftion ; but they are inhabited by Turkoman pirates. A
more confiderable trade is maintained with Manguflilak, which our
maps reprefent as (landing at the egrefs of the river Tedjen ; but, ac.
cording to the learned Wahl, that river and another which flows by
Mefhid, are received by an inland lake, the Kamyfli Tefhen, on the
S. of the bay of Balkan ; a circumftance which feems to be confirmed
by the chart of the Cafpian publifhed by Hanway, in which the mouth
of the Tedjen does not appear :f . To the N. of the large bay of Bal-
kan are the lake of Karabogas and another inlet, which is followed by
the port of Alexander or Ifkander.

As the merchants of Khiva brought gold and gems to Aftrakan, pro.
bably from the t\70 Bucharias, an idea was fuggefted to Peter the Great
that thefe precious produds were found in Knarizm, and he in confe.
quence attempted a fettlement. But the RuiTians, to the number of jooo,
advancing under the command of a Clrcaflian prince called Beckawitz,
towards Khiva, were all cut off by the Uzbeks.

The hiftory of Kharizm has been ably illuftrated by its king, or khan,
Abulgazi, in his general hiftory of the Tatars written about 1660. He
was born in 1605, and elefted khan 1643, after a long imprifonment in
Perfia. He died in 166 ;, revered as an excellent prince, and a man en-
dowed with the rareft qualities. ^

Great Bucharia.] By far the moft important part of Independent
Tatary is comprifed under the name of Great Bucharia, generally fup-
pofedtohave originated from the city of Bokhara, the firft which the
Perfian merchants entered on vifiting the country. It is part of the
Touran of the ancient Perfians, and was chiefly known to the Greeks
and Romans by the nam^^ of Sogdiana and Baftriina ; the former being
the Maweralnahar, or country beyond the river, of oriental geography;
while Ba£):riana correfponda with Balk. From the fecond fon of Zingis
it received the name of Zagathai. By the Byzantine hiftorians the peo-
ple are called Ephthalites, or corruptly Nephthalites, a name derived
from the Oxus or Amu, by the Porfians ftyleU Abtelah, or the river of
gold. Thofe Byzantine writers, who affedl to imitate claflical language,
call the Ephthalites White Huns.

Extent and boundahies.] Great Bucharia extends more than 700
B. miles in " gth rym N to S., by a medial breadth, if Fergana be in-
eluded, of abnnt 350, thus ather exceeding Great Britain in fize, but
much inferior to the counti s .-ailed Little Bucharia. The northern

• Equal, by H»nwav's jccomh', ti> 27 B. miles j hence the diftante of Khiva from the
Cafpian would he 4S!.' fi. miles, while <mr maps fcarcely allow :)00.

t Dec. Rufr.ili. irJ.

X Wahl, prohalily alter D'.^nvillr, places Mai,gulhhk far to the north tiear ihc Dad
Gulf, ii) '.lie country of th.^ Mniikats, called Karakalpaks hy th'- Uufll^iis. 'J he mnp "f
RuflRa, 1787, gives the gulf of Maii^uthlnk on the north of .n^>c Kalai/an. Colonel
Bruce can defcrve no credit in flpiK)fItioii to all the Ruffian accoimtH.

boundary

INDEPENDENT TATARY.

479

iguage,

he DoJ

Ciilonel

lunckry

boundary appears to be the mountains of Argun. On the weftern
fide 8 defert, the river Amu, and other deferts, divide Buchana from
Kharizm and Corafan : while on the S. and E. the mountains of Gaur»
or Paropamifus, the Hindoo Koh, and the chain of Belur, are perpetual
barriers.

History.] The original population of this country was Scythian, like
that of Perfia. Its hiftory might be traced from the earlieft periods, as
the feat and foiirce of the moft ancient Perfian monarchy. This region
became better known by the expedition of Alexander, and the eftabliih-
ment of the Greek monarchy of Ba6lriana. But it is not till after the
Mahometan conqueil^f Perfia in the feventh centui y, that the hiftory
of this country becomes fufficiently clear. In 1494 Sultan Baber, a
defcendant of Timur, was with his Monguls expelled from Great Bu-
charia ; and proceeding into Hindoftan, there founded the Mongul
power. The Tatarian vigors, called Uzbeks, eftabliflied a powerful
monarchy in Bucharia ; and fucceffive khans held the fceptre from 1494
to 1658, foon after which period this great and fertile country appears
to have been divided into feveral dommations, under numerous khans.
In 1 74 1 the city of Bokhara, with a fmall territory around it, confli-
tuted all the monarchy of one of thefe khans *. Nadir firft diftinguifhed
himfclf in Corafan, in combats with the Uzbeks. The province of Gaur
is fubjeft to the kings of Candahar ; but Balk and Samarcand ap-
pear to remain fubjeft to their own Uzbek khans. In the deficiency
of recent accounts, it can only be conjedlured that the chief powers
of this country are the khan of Balk m the S., and of Samarcand
in the N.

Religion.] The religion of the Uzbeks and Buchrrians is the Maho-
metan of the Sunni fe6t, and the government of the khans is defpotic.
There is no precife evidence of the ftate of the population, which conlifts
of the Tatars and of the Buchanans. It is probable that upon an emer-
gency an army might be muftered of 100,000 ; but though Nadir re-
duced Bokhara and Khiva, he feems to have refpe6led Balk and Samar-
cand, confidering them as allied ftates, which furniflied him with the beft
troops in his army : and he even regarded himfelf as a Tatar, not as a
Perlian. There is no Itatement of the revenue of thefc fertile provinces.
From an account pubhOied by Hanway ot" the revenues of Nadir, it ap-
pears that Corafan yielded half a million jlcrling annually, being equal
to that of Erivan, and fuperior to any other rerfian province. It is
probable that the revenue of Great Bucharia is at leaft equal to that
of Corafan.

Manners and customs.] The manners and cuftoms of the Uzbeks
art fimilar to thofe of the oti>er Tatars : but they are fuppofed to be the
moft fpirited and indullrious of thefe barbarians. Though many refide ia
tents ia the fummer, yet ii winter they inhabit the towns and villages.
They are, however, ad.nfted to make I'udden inroads into the Perfian
provinces. Thole of iJUk are the moll civilized, and carry on a confi-
dtrahle trade with Perfia and Hnidoftan. The native 'Bucharians, or
Tadjiks, are comparatively fair , and correfpond, in elegance of form
and features, with tliofe of Little Bucharia, whom they alfo refemble in
tiiemode of drefs. The Bucharians never bear arms. The Uzbeks, on
the contrary, are no flrangers to the ulc of the mulket ; and it is faid that
even their women, v/ho lurpafs thofe of the other Tatars in beauty, arc
lot averfe to war^e, but will fometimes attend their hufbands to the

* Huiway, i. 34^.

field.

W'^i}

^-'i^M

I'-'h

'm%

:U' 4

!(*:.% H-**''^-^ *.

48p

INDEPENDENT TATARY.

field.

The language is Zaga haian, that is, Turkifh or Turkomanic •
Dui mat of the Bucharians has never been inveftigated, though it be or '
bably Perfian, like their phyfiognomy, but intermingled with Turkift"

Mongolian, and even Hindoo terms. The literature of Great Buchari'
would furnifh an ample theme, Samarcand having been a celebrated
fchool of oriental fcience, cultivated even by monarchs, as Ulujr Be?
and others : it was ftill, in the beginning of the lall century, the molt cele-
brated of Mahometan univerfities *.

Provinces.} The cities in Great Bucharia generally give name to
the provinces, or receive their appellations from them. In the north the

frovince of Fergana appears to be fubjeft to the Kjrgufes of the Greater
lord ; and of Andegan, its capital, there is no recent account. The
other chief provinces are the weftem part of Shafti, and a diftrift qallej
by D'Anville Ofruftma, from a town of the fame namef. The moil
fertile and celebrated province is that of Sogd, fo called from the river
which pervades it. Next are Vafti, Kotlan, and Kilan. Tok'areftan
and Gaur are the mod fouthern provinces.

Cities.] The chief city of Great Bucharia is Samarcand, on the
fouthern bank of the river Sogd, which, at the dillance of above a hun.
dred miles, after wafhing the walls of Bokhara, pafTes through a confi.
derable lake, and is fuppoied to join the Oxus or Amu*

Of this celebrated capital there is no recent account, but it feemi
greatly to have declined fince the time of Timur, the feftivities of whofe
court, at his palace here, and villas in the vicinity, have been fo well
defcribed by his Perfian hiftorian. Towards the beginning of the lall
century, Bentink fays that Samarcand was fortified with ramparts of |
turf, the houfes being mo illy of hardened clay, though fome were of
ftorie, from quarries in the neighbourhood. The khan of Great Bu-
charia commonly encamped in the adjacent meadows, the caftle being aj.
moft ruinous. The excellence of the paper made of filk recommended
it to all the countries of the eaft : and it is fuppofed that we derived this
invention from Samarcand ;}:. The rich vale of Sogi produces fuch
abundance of exquifite grapes, melons, pears, and apples^ that they were
ifent to Perfia, and even to Hindollan.

Bokhara, on the fame river, has repeatedly contefted the metropolitan
•dignity with Samarcand. When vifited by the Englifh agents in 1741, 1
it was a' large and populous city, fubjea to its khan ; {landing on a
'fifing groundf with a flender wall of earth ; the houfes of clay, but the nu.
jnerous moiques of brick § . The citizens manufactured foap and calico ,
and the chief produAs were cotton, rice, and cattle. From the Kalmuks 1
-they received rhubarb and mufk: and from Badakfhan, the capital of a
country fo called, they ufed to receive lapis lazuli, and other precious
-iloties ; that aty being computed at futeen days' journey from Bokhara.
There was gold and copper coin : and after Nadir took this city, the
Perfian and Indian fdver became comnon. In the tenth century it was
4liftinguiihed h, the manufacture of tine linen. I

Balk is a diitinguithed city on the river Dehafh, which flows into the
Amu from the fouthern mountains ot Gaur or Paropamifus, probably,!
in the beginning of the lall century, ilili fubjed to its particular]

• Hentink on Ahulca/i, p. %79.

t The >eiruftueh ot'Iibn Haukal, p. 261. '

X This maiiut°a£\ure is faid to have been known \. D. 650. Oufeley's Ebn HauUIJ
p. doo. The (ainc work nuy be confulted for the itate of this grett city In the t(!nik|
century.

§ Hutw»y, i. 949.

khanl

?■ 25S, (avs dial till

INDEPENDENT TATARY.

481

iTs into thtl
probably, [
particulitl

Ebn Haulull
\n the ic"A|

khsal

khan of the Uzbeks ; being then the mod confiderable of all their cities,
large and populous, with houfes of brick or ftone : while the cattle or
palace confifted almoft entirely of marble from the neighbouring mountains.

This beautiful city was an objeft of ambition to the neighbouring
powers of Perlia and Hindollan ; but was fecure not only from their
mutual jealoufy, but from the difficult accefa through high mountains
on one fide, and deferts on the other. The people were the moft civilized
of all the Tatars, and beautiful filks were prepared from the produdl of
the country, which feema then to have included the whole of Great
Bucharia to the S. of the .\mu, which, in this part of its courfe, is alfo
called the Harrat. It is the chief feat of the trade between Bucharia
and Hindoftan.

Zouf, which is alfo called Gaur, from the province of which it is the
capital, is faid to be now fubjeft to the kingdom of Candahar and Ba-
nian, in the fame province, mull have fliared the fame fate. The latter
city was remarkable for numerous images, and other monuments, carved
in the adjacent mountains. Anderab is the chief city of Tokareftan ;
near a pi fs through the mountains of Hindoo Koh, itriftly guarded by
the khan of Balk. In the neighbourhood of this city were rich quarries
nf lapis lazuli, a fubrtance with which Great Bucharia feems chiefly to
have fiipplied the ancient and modern world.

Not far to the noith (lands Badaklban, on the river Amu or Harrat.
In the latt centuvy this city belonged to the khan of Great Bucharia, or
rather of Samarcand ; and being fecluded in a branch of the Belar Alps»
was ufed as a Itate prifoH'for rivals or infurgents. Badakflian was fmall,
but well built and populous ; and its inhabitants were enriched by the
gold, filvcr, and rubies found in the neighbourhood ; the grains of gold
and filver abounding in the torrents which defcend from the mountains,
when the fnow melts in the beginning of fummer *. Several caravans for
Little Bucharia and China pais by ihi» city.

Kotlan or Khotlan is the capital of a province fo called, but othcrwife
frems little metuorable. Termed, fituated on the Amu, is i'carcely known
in modern accounts : and in general the northern cities feem greatly t»
have declined under the domination of Uzbeks.

Manufactuhrs. j The chief manufadhyes have been already men-
tioned in the account of the cities Befides the caravans to Perlia, Hin-
dollan and China, foire trade is carried on with the Ruffians, the Bucha-
nan merchants not only furnilhing their own produds, but others from
the callern countries to which they trade.

Climate. ] The 6limate in general appears to be excellent, the heat
even of the fouthern provinces being tempered by the high mountains
capped with perpetual fnow ; and though fituated in the parallel of Spain*
Greece, and Afiatic Turkey, the proxnnity of the Siberian deferts, and
the lofty A.lps, render the fummer more temperate. The face of the
country prefents a great variety ; but though there are numerous rivers,
hills, and mountains, there feems to be a dolkiency of wood f. Near
the rivers the foil is very produilive, fo that the grafs fometinies ex-
ceeds the height of a man ; and 111 fonie parts coiiliderable indullry is
Ihewn in the cvdtivation of liceaiJ other gram. In any other hands but
thofe of the Tatars, this co iitry mighi, rival any European region.
R1VKHS.3 Thechijf rivers of ludepcndentTatary are the Amuand

• Bemitik on Al)ulga/1, (1. 55.

t It is prol)al)lo ilit i<; nmy iic large foroftj on lli« welleru fide of the Bt-Iur, as Ucntink,
p. '.25S, lavs Uiat limber «buuu(ls.

the

iiniw. ."-*■ -*>

INDEPENDENT TATARY.

I ',

the SiiT, or river of Shafli. The former is ihv ancient Oxus, and n^ar
its foiirceis callt-d the Harrat : oriental geographers -ilfo term it the Gi«
hoon, as they call the Sirr the Silicon.

The Anui rifes in the mountains of Belur, more than 200 B. miles
N.E. from Badakflian, and before it reach that city, has ulrcadv re-
ceived the Ortong from the E. From Badakfhan it pafles W. to Tcr.
med, after receiving numerous ftreams from the Ak Tan on the N. and
from the Hindoo Koh on the S. After being joined from the fame quar-
ter by the Dehafli, or river of Balk, with collefted it reams from Uie
mountains of Gaur, the Amu follows a N.W. direftion, and falls into
the fcaof Aral, which appears, as before mentioned, to have been in all
ages its chief receptacle, though a branch formerly pafled by Urghenz
towards the Cafpian, and another feems to have been detached near Ha-
'/..irafp. The whole courfe of this noble river furpafles that of the Tigris,
being probably not lefs than 900 B. miles. It abounds with fifli of va-
rious forts.

The Sirr, or river of Shafh, alfo rifes in the mountains of Belur, and
falls into the eaflern fide of the fea of Aral, after a courfe of about
C5O B. miles. According to Iflenieff the furthell fource of the Sirr
istlie river Narin, which rifes to the S. of the lake Tuzkul in the chain
of Alak, near its junction with the Belur Alps ; and by Uie account of
Pallas the fource is near that of the river Talas. The Narin itfelf con-
fiftsof numerous Urcams colleftcd from the ridges of Alak and Argun,
bending to the S., while the other rivers in this quarter flow in a north
direftion ; but the Sirr, peculiarly fo called, rifes in the mountains of
Terek Daban, or northern part of the Belur chain, wliere it joins that of
Alak. After palling Andegan and Cojend, the Sirr or laxartcs runs
N.W. by Taftikund and Tunkat, wliere it is joined by a coiiliJerable
river from the E. At Otrar it receives the river Taraz. The remaining
courfe of the Sirr is chiefly through the defert of Burzuk ; and it is
doubtful if it be joined by the Sarafu, a large river from the N., fo imper-
fed is the geography of thefe regions.

In the country polfefled by the three hords of Kirguft's arc alfo
ctlier confiderable lireams, as the D/ui, which rifos on the N. of the
lake Tuzkul; and the Irghiz and Turgai, which flow into a lake on
the M. of the Aral ; not to menliou tho ilVim, pervading the llepp of
the fame i;ame. Several of thefe lakes and rivers, now ohlcure, c;re
remarkable in tlic hillory of Zingis and his fuccefibrs, when, uircaiiig
their conquefls to the N. of the Cafpian, they lubducd the greater part
of European Ruffia.

Eakk-s.J The moH confiderable lake is ' the fea of Aral, or of
eagles, already montioiied in the general view of Alia. I'lie lake
Tcngis, Balkafh, or Palkati, is near 140 B. miles i:i length, by half
that breadth, being the largeft lake in Alia, after the f';<i8 of iinland
Briikal ; but this, with two other very conlidorabic hikes to the E.,
properly belong to the Kalmuks fubjecil to China. The lakes in the
country of the Kirgufcs and in Great and Little Bucharia arc of lefs
moment.

Mountains. J The principal range of mountains is that of Beliir,
which, according to all accounts, is a great alpine chain, com-ed wiih
perpetual fnow. The chief branches proceed towards the \^, tor on
the E. is the high central plain of Afia, full of deferts, as if niiiure had
here performed her earlieli operations, >vljen this firil and grcatell conti-
nent emerged from the primeval waters. Of thiii extetilivc table-land
the Belur may be regarded as tl>e wcilern buttrefs, continued by tlie

8 niOun»

INDEPENDENT TATAR.Y.

4S3

mountains of Jitnbal and Kifik Tag to the Altaian chain, which formsi
the northern buttrefs on the S. of the fea of Baikal. On the E. this
chain gradually declines from the fources of the Onon and Kerlon, and
the S. hmit of the defert of Shamo, while the numerous alps of Tibet,
to which country there is a gradual afcent from China, form the fouthero
and excrefcent buttrefs. Except in fome few places, (heltered from the
N. and E., this cxtenfive elevation is expofed to extreme cold, the re-
verfeof the deferts of Africa. It is ini^rfeiled with great ranges of
mountains, whofe height mull be enormous fuperadded to that of the
bafes ; the weltern parts in particular, between Siberia and Tibet, abound
with irregular ridges of naked rocks, prefenting a& it were the ruins of
mountains.

The chain of Belur, the ancient Imaus, proceeds nearly N. ana S,
and is continued by the mountains of Alak or Alak Oola on the N.
of Little Bucharia, which joins the great Bogdo, the higheft moun-
tain in central Afia, according to the reports of the Monguls and
Tatars. On the S. the Belur feems more intimately conncfted with the
Hindoo Koh than with the northern ridges of Tibet. The Hindoo
Koh, and mountains of Gaur, mull not be forgotten among thofe of
Great Bucharia, being feeraingly an extenfiun of the chain of Belur,
without any interruption, except a narrow to tlie S. of Anderab.

The mountains of Argjun or Argun fet j form one chain with
tli: Kara Tau, though broken, as not unulual, by the tranfition of a
river; and like the Ak Tau, in the S>) appear a branch detached fron>
tlie Belur.

MiNBRALOOY.] Neither the botany nor zoology of this country
have been explored by any intelligent naturalift. We have feeii that the
alpine regions prefent many of the animals of Tibet. The mineralogy
is not fo obfcure, though the Monguls and Tatars, who may be faidio
have pofl'efTed this 'country for a thoufand years, have not induflry for
the proper purfuit of metallurgy. The alpine heights in the S.E. con-
tain gold, filver, and a pecuUar produftion, the bi-lay, or pale rofe co-
loured ruby ; not to mention lapis lazuli. In the tenth century, before
the native induilry had expired under long oppreflion, Fergana produced
fill ammoniac, vitriol, iron, copper *, gold, and turkoifcs ; and quick-
fiher is added, a rare and valuable product.. In the mountain of Zarka
there were fprings of naphtha and bitumen, and *' a Hone that takes
fire and burns," which mult imply coal. In the country of Sctruflitch,
D' AnvillL-'s Ofrufhna, there was a cavern, whence a vapour arofe, which
in the night feemed fiery, and from which fal ammoniac was procured.
On digging the ground a fuuilar vapour would arife, ae we nre told of the
fires near Baku. In the mountains of Ailakor Ikk, the moll northern
province around Otrar, there were mines of gold and filver. Tlie vene-
rably father of Arabian geography, Ebn Haukal, has compenfated for
the penury of his information refpe£ling natural hitlory, by an animated
charader of this country and its people, which may be heru introduced
asa relief from the drynefsof fome of the details unavoidable in dcfcrib-
ing a country highly celebrated, but the geography of which unac-
countably remains the moll dcfeftive of any in Afia, with the fin^jle ex-
ception of interior A rabia.

** Such are the generofity and liberality of the inhabitants, that no one
turns afide from the rites of hofpitahty ; fo that a perfon contemplatTug
tliem in this light, would imagine t/jot all the families cf the .land were hut

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INDEPENDENT TATARY.

one boufe* When a traveller arrives there every perfon endeavours to at*
traft him to himfelfi that he may have opportunities of performing kind
offices for the ftrangei* \ and the beft proof of their hofpitable and gene-
rous difpofition is, that every peafant, though poifefling but a bare fuffi*
ciency, allots a portion of his cottage for the reception of a gueft. On
the arrival of a ftranger they contend one with another for the pleafure of
taking him to their home, and entertaining him. Thus, in a£ts of Iiof.
pitality, they expend their incomes. I happened once to be in Soghd,
and there I faw a certain palace, or great building, the doors of which
were fattened back with nails againft the walls. 1 afked the reafon of
this, and they informed me that it was an hundred years and morefince
thofe doors had b^en (hut, all that time they had continued open day
and night, ftrangers might arrive there at the mod unfeafonable hours^
or in any numbers, for the mailer of the houfe had provided every
thing neceifary both for the men and for their beads ; and he appeared
with > delighted and joyful countenance when the guefts tarried a
while.

** In all the regions of the earth there is not a more flourifhing or a
more deUghtful country than this, efpecially the diftriA of Bokhara. >If
a perfon Sand on the Kohendiz (or ancient caftle) of Bokhara, and call
his eyes around, he (hall not fee any thing but beautiful and luxuriant ver-
dure on every fide of the country : fo that he would imagine the green
of the earth and the azure of the heavens were united : and as there are
green fields in every quarter, fo there are villas interfperfed among the
green fields.

" The walls and buildings, and cultivated plains of Bokhara, extend
above thirteen farfang. by twelve farfang : and the Soghd, for eight daya
journey, is all delightful country, affording fine profpe^s, and full uf
ffirdens, and orchards, and villages, com fields, and villas, and running
ftreams, refervoirs, and fountains, both on the right hand and on the left.

** You pafs from corn fields into rich meadows and pail'^rc lands ; and
tht fruiu of Soghd are the fined in the world *."

ARABIA.

CHAPTER I.

MonnJarift. ~ Population. — ProgreJ^ve Geography, — Ifjflorkal Epoch. -^
Rtlmon.— 'Government.— ■ Atanncrt and Cmomt.— Dreft.'^ Canguait,
•' —Education, — Cities and Townt, — Edipctt. — ManuJaSnrtt, — Prt-
• du8i, — Commerce.

THE laft remaining country ef the wide Afiatic continent it Arabii»
a region more highly celebrated than precifely known. By the an*
cients it was* divided into three unequal portions ; Petraea, or the Stoney,
a finall province on the N. of the Red tea. between Egypt and Paleiti;; ,
io ca)led from its bare granitic rocks and mountains, the moft remarkable
«£ which ii Sioai ; Arabia Deferta was iheealtern part* fg far as knowa

. •.F.ba H«Mk»)| by Sir Win. Oufclr^, p. 231,

■?#'

ARABIA.

-^5

to the ahcients ; while Arabia the Happy comprifed the S.W. on the
Ihores of the Red fea.

Boundaries.] The boundaries on the W. and S. are marked by the
Red Sea, or Arabian gulf, and the Indian ocean : while the Perfian gulf
extends a confiderable way on the £. and this boundary is confiderea as
continued by the deferts to the weft of the Euphrates. The northern
limits are lefs ftrongly marked ; but both in ancient and modern time*
rife to an angle about an hundred miles to the E. of Palmyra,
which is nut mcluded in Arabia. Thence the line proceeds SW. to
the S.E. angle of the Meditterranean, a northern boundary of Arabia
Petrxa.

From the cape of Babelmandeb to the extreme angle on the Euphrates,
the length is not lefs than 1800 B. miles ; while the medial breadth may
be about 800.

Tiie central part of Arabia is filled with the vaft province, or rather
defert, called Neged, occupying almoft the whole country except a few
fmall portions towards the fliores, as Hejaz on the Red Sea, which
contains Mecca and Medina, Yemen on the S. towards the ftraits of
Babelin ndeb ; Hadramaut on the fliores of the Indian ocean, and
Omon, on the S. of the entrance of the Pcrfian gulf; with Lahfa, or
Hajar, the Hejer of D'Anville, on the weftern Ihor^s of the fame
gulf.

Population.] The population is original and indigenous, the Ara>
bians being the fame race with the Aflyrians of remote antiquity, the
probable fathers of the Syrians, Egyptians, and Abyflinians, whofe
languages are intimately allied, as is that of th^ Hebrews ; being totally
diil^rent in form and ftruAure from that of the Perfians, their powerful
neighbours in the E. By all accounts, facred and profane, the Afly-
rians were the moft ancient civilized and commercial people ; and when
modern philofophy is divefted of its prejudices, there will be no reafon
to infer fuperior pretenlions from China, and far lefs from Hindoftan.
Situated in a country nearly central, between Afia, Africa, and Eu-
rope ; and in the wide intercourfe of the Mediterranean, and the Arabian
and Perftan gulfs ; it was natural that the variety of produ£tiono and wants
fhould occalion theTird rife of commerce in Syria; and the merchants
of Tyre had explored the (horcs of Britain, while the Chinefe feem not
to have difcovered thufe of Japan. This early civilization will excite
the lefs furprife, when it is confidirrcd that even the modern Arabians
are a moft fagacious and intelligent race of men, remarkable alfo for
fpirit and valour, whofe country alone has never been fubdued by any
invader; and who alone, of all Afiatic nations, have prefervcd the facred
flame of freedom, which their progenitors kindled in their inacceflible
mountains. In comparatively modern times they have vindicated the fame
of their ancient pre-eminence by giving religion and laws to half of Afia
and Africa, and a great part of Europe. The Arabian chalifs in Spain,
Africa, and Egypt, as well as at Bagdad, cultivated the arts and fciences ;
and (liewcd a great fuperiority to the barbarous powers of Europe at
that period. Trom Samarcand to the centre of Africa the Arabian lan-
guage and manners are held in veneration.

Proouicssivb geography.] This didinguifhed country is known
in the earlieit records of hilt or y and geography ; and being cele-
brated for products which could only be procured by navigation,
muft have been no ftranger to mercantile enterprizc on its turthcll
ftores towards the Indian ocean. Strabo, and even Eratofthenes, ap-
pear to have known the fouthorn coalls, though not fo diilindtlv as

i i 3 thofe

4«6

ABASIA.

thofc 6n thecaft of the Atabian gulf. Ptolemy's description of Arabia
evinces a confiderable portion of accurate knowledge ; and of the in.
terioY ptnts, as well as thofe of Afiica, he, probably from his refidcnct
and opportunities in Egypt, had acquired a knowledge far fuperior to
any polTeffed at the prefent moment. He has, however, greatly 'dimi-
tiifhed the length of the Arabian gulf; and by increafing the fizeof the
Perfian has confiderably injured the juft form of the country. Some
of thefe errors have been reftified by the later Arabian geographers, and
our knowledge of the interior of the country has received confiderable
additions from the fame authors. Yet even the juft geography of the
ihores is recent, and has been improved fince tne time of D'Anville.
Niebuhr, to whom we are indebted for the beft account of this country,
penetrated but a little way into the interior ; and many difcoveries here
remain for the enterprizing traveller : but the paflage is exlaremely diffi-
cult, the country being divided among a furprifmg number of Imams and
Sheiks, who often carry on petty wars, and plunder all ftrangevs that
fell into their hands.

Historical epochs.] The hiftorical epochs of this people might
be traced from the Aflyrian empire, the moft ancient on record, the
Aflyrians being only a northern branch of the Arabs. But the hiilory
of interior Arabia is obfcure, till the time of Mahomet ; and their tra-
ditional fongs chiefly celebrate Antai, a hero renowned hke the Ruftan
of the Periians. Arabia never appears to have been united either in a
republic, or under one monarth, except in the time of Mahomet and his
fiiccefTors ; and the traditions of the petty dates cannot be interfiling.
The kingdom of Yemen, or the S» W. extremity, has been repeatedly
fubdued by the Abyfllnians, the Perfians, the fnltans of Egypt, and
the Turks * ; being feparated from the interior by deferts, as well as
mountains : but the wide inland countries of Neged have defied all in.
vafion, and, far from being conquered, are alvnoil unknown. Yet
.Niebuhr informs us that Arabian traditions faintly indicate that the
w'hole country was fubjef^ in the earlieft times to a race of monarchj
called Tobba, like the Pharaohs of Egypt, worfhippers of hre from
the country of Samarcand, who vanquiftied Arabia* and introduced
civilization.

RbLigion.] Tlie ancient idolatry of Arabia has been explained by
the «<fr iters on thehfeof Mahomet ; and h; -nan facrifices appear to have
been offered by the natives of this country, as well as by their brethren
the Syrians and Carthaginians. Sabianifm afterwards fpread from
Chaldee. Nor was the Chriftian religion unknown before the appearance
of Mahomet, Avhoie fyilem was foon diffufed throughout Arabia. Be*
fides the Suunis there is here a confiderable fe6t called the Zciditet,
who in moft points agree with the former, but feem rather more lax in
their faith and practice. About the middle of laft century a (heik of
Yemen, called Mekkrami, eltabliflied a kind of new fed of Mahome*
tanifm : and about the fame period what may be called a new religion was
commenced in the provinoe £1 Ared, in the central divifion of Neged,
by Abdul Wahheb f ; which by the lateft accounts begins to make con>
fiderable progrefs under his fucceflbrs. He is faid to have taught
that Cod alone fhould be adored and iuTOcated; while the mention
•■of Mahometi or any other prophet, he confidered as approaching to
idohltry.

« Gibbon, ii. 994.

f NUbtihr Dtktif, d« TAiabie. Coptnhif . 1770, 4to. p. 991.

GOVKRX*

ARABIA.

487

Government.] This country is divided among ni;<T>ero'us' Imams
and Sheiks, an idea of whofe government ■". y be dt-awn from that
of Yemen which is defcribcd by Niebuhr. The title of Jmamy im-
plying Vicar, that is of Mahomet, is ecclefiaftic ; and among the
Turks implies a common prieft, while the Mulla prefides in a court
of juftice. But among the Perfians and Arabs the title Imam is of
fuperior dignity, as the twelve Imams, or genuine fucceflbrs of the
prophet in Perfia ; while in Arabia the word is confidered as fyno-
nymous with Chnl'if., and Emr El Mumenin, or Prince of the Faith-
ful*. The inferior governments are condudled by Sheiks, a term
merely implying old men, and feems rarely mingled with the ecclellaftic
charafter.

The throne of Yemen is hereditary ; and the Imam, or Emir, an
independent power, acknowledging no fuperior in fpiritual or temporal
affairs f . He poffeffes the prerogative of peace and war ; but cannot
be called defpotic, as he cannot deprive even a Jew, or a Pagan of life,
but the caufe mull be tried before the fupreme tribunal of Sana, con-
filting of feveral Cadis, while he is only prefident. When an Emir
(liews a defpotic difp^fition he is. commonly dethroned. The next in
rank are the Fakis, a title fo lax as feemingly only to denote gentle-
men. The governors of diftrifts are called Dola3 ; or, if fuperior in
birth, Walis. The Dola in fome degree correfponds with the Turkifh
Pa(ha. The chief magirtrate of a fmall town without a garrifion ia
calbd Sheik ; as a fuperior governor is fometinies called Emir, and in
little villages Hakim. In each diilrid there is alfu a Cadi ; who, like
thole in Turkey, are judges of ecclefialUc and civil affairs ; but in
Arabia the prince himfelf is the high prieft. His army, in peace, was
computed at 4000 infantry and 1000 cavalry ; the foldiers being, as
ufual in the eaft, without uniforms. There is nu navy, and the vcfTels
in general are very rudely conftru(^ed, tho£e of Yemen having fails made
of matting.

Manners and customs.] The manners and cuftoms of the inha*
bitants are for the mod part fimilar \.j thufe of the other Beduins, fo
frequently defcribed by numerous travellers. Thofe of the country Qf
Yemen have been Accurately delineated by Niebuhr ; and this provnice
will probably, after the utmoll difcovcry, continue to be regarded as
the mod interefting portion ; reprefenting, as Gibbon has obferved, the
Arabia Felix of antiquity. In Yemen murder is punifhed with death*
but more often left to private revenge, which occafions family feuds*
that pedilence of fociety. In politenefs the Arabs vie with the Per-
lians, and there arc ftill remains of. their ancient hofpitality. The com-
mon falutation is the Sahm Alekum% or peace be with you : in pro-
nouncing which words they raife the right hand to the heart, but this
form is leldom addrefTed to Chriilians. On meeting in their wide defects
the falutations are multiplied ; and the hand of a fuperior is kiffed in
token of refped. The houfes, though of ftone, are meanly con-
(lru£lcd ; the apartments of the men being in front, thofe of t)i? wo-
men behind. Of a middle ftature, thin, and dried as it were by the
fuu, the Arab is moderate in his food, the common people feldpni ex-
ceeding a repaft of bad bread made from durra, a kind ot millet, mixed
with camels' milk, oil, butter, or greafe ; the only drink beintr water.
This bread of durra cuftom has taught them to prefer to that of barley,
which, though pleafant, they think unfubftwitial. Meat is little ufed.

• Niebuhr, 133.

Xi4

t lb. 179.

cvm

48S

ARABIA.

even by the rich, who deem it unhealthy in a hot climate. The ©rientats
in general being water-drinkers they are very fond of paftry. The moft
noted drink is coffee', which they prepare like the Turks, by burninn
it in an open pan, and then bruifing in a (lone or wooden mortar. In
Yemen it is rarely ufed, as in their opinion it heats the blood ; but of
the (hells, or huflcs of the coffee, they prepare a liquor in the manner
of tea. The moft diftinguifhed Arabs ufe porcelain from China, while
the common'people have recourfe to earthen ware. Spirituous liquors,
though forbidden, are not abfolutely unknown ; and they fometimes
fmoke a plant refembling hemp, which produces intoxication ; nor i«
tobacco negle£led, which is fmoaked either in the Turkifa or Peruan
manner.

Dress.] The drefs, like that of the Turks and Higdoos, is long,
often with large trowfers, a girdle of embroidered leather, and a knife,
or dagger. Over the fhoulder is worn a large piece of jine linen,
originaUy defigned to keep off the fun. The head drefs feems op.
prefiive, confitting of'feveral bonnets, from ten to fifteen, fome of
linen, others of cotton and woullen, the*^ outmoft being often richly
embroidered with gold ; and around this multitude of bonnets is wrapped
vrhat%they call a ufch, being a large piece of muflin, with fringes of
iilk or gold, which hang down behind. The women ftain their naiU
red, and their feet and nands of a yellowifh b^own, with henoa : the
eye lafhes are darkened with antimony, as in many other oriental count
tries ; and every art is exerted to render the eye brows large and
bhck. Polygamy is confined to the rich : and throughout the whole
Mahometan regions is far lefs general than is commonly fuppofed ii\
Bttrope.

Language. 3 The language of the Arabs was, even in
times,, divided into feveral diale£ts, as may be fufpe6led from i
diffufion. Even in Yemen there are fubdivifions ; and poHte people
ufe a different enunciation froni the Vulgar. The language of the
Koran is fo different from the^ modern ipeech of Mecca, that it is
taught in the colleges there, at the Latin is at Rome, The chief

Joets are now found among the wandering Arabs in the country of
of or Mareb, adjoining to Yemen on the £. * Some alfo appear
in the towns, where they amufe the company in coffee^houfes ; in
this, as in other refpeAs, refembling the Turkifh. The ancient trea*
fures of Arabian literature are well known to the learned world;
but few of thefe noble monunients were compofed in Arabia, being
noftly produced in the conquered countries from Samarcand to Cor*
doya.

Education.] Education is not wholly negle£ted, and many of
the common people can read and write ; while thofe of rank enter-
tain preceptors to teach their children and young (laves. Near everr
mofque there is commonly a fchool, the mailers, as well as the chit'
dren of the poor, being fupported by legacies. In the kurge towns
there are many other fchoofs, to which people of the middle clafs
fend their fond, who are taught to read, write, and account. The girls
are inAruAed apart by women. In the chief cities are colleges for
«ftronomy, aftroJogy, philofophy, medicine, &c. : and in the little king-
dom of Yemen toere are two univerfities, or celebrated academies.
Tilt iaterpitUtion of the Koran, with the hiftpry of Mahomet and

ancient
its wide

• Nifbuhr, 9a.

the

ARABIA.

489

the firft ctialifS) form an extenfive ftudy, the records being in a dead

language* j

Cities akd towks.^ Arabia has been compared to a cloak of frize»
laced with gold, the (kirts alone prefenting cities and other marks of
civilization, while the great mafs of the country is poflefled by wan-
dering tribes. The mod celebrated cities are Mecca and Medina ; but
being f^icred ground, the infidels are not permitted to approach ; and
we are obliged to trui): to the inaccuracy and exaggeration of oriental
writers. Mecca " was known to the Greeks under the name of Ma*
coraba, and has not, in the moil flourifhing period, exceeded the fize
and populonfnefs of Marfeilles. Some latent motive, perhaps of Ju- ^
perilition, muil have impelled the founders in the choice of a moft
unpromifuig fituation. • They eredled their habitations of mud or ftone,
ill a plain about two miles long and one broad, at the foot of three
barren mountains : the foil is a rock ; the water even of the holy well
of Zemzem is bitter or brackifh ; the paftures ar^ remote from the
city ; and grapes are tranfported above feventy miles,' from the gar«
dens of Tayef. The fame and fpirit of the Koreifhites, who reigned
in Mecca, were confpicuous among the Arabian tribes; but their un-
grateful foil refufed the labours of agriculture, and their pofition was
favourable to the enterprifes of trade. By the fea-port of Gedda, at
the diftance only of forty miles, they maintained an eafy correfpond>
ence with Abymnia. The treafures of Africa were conveyed over the
peninfula to Gerrha or Katif in the province of Bahrein, a city buil;,
as it is faid, of rock fait, by the Chaldean exiles : and from thence,
with the native pearls of the Perfian gulf, they were floated on
nifts td to the mouth of the Euphrates. Mecca is placed almoft at an
equal diftance a month's journey, between Yemen on the right and
Syria on the left hand. ' The former was the winter, the latter the fbm*
mer ftatipn of her <;aravan8. In the markets of Saana and Merab, in
the harbours of Oman and AdePt the camels of the Koreiihites were
laden with a precious cargo of aromatics : a fupply of corn and ma-
nufadures was purchafed m the fairs of Boftra and Damafcus ; the
lucrative exchange diffufed plenty and riches in the ftreets of Mecca ;
and the nobleil of her fons united the love of arms with the profeflion of
merchandize *.**

The government of this holy city is veiled in a (heref, who is a tem-
poral pnnce ; and his revenue k increafed by the donations of Maho-
metan fovereigns.

Medina ilands about 300 B. miles N. of Mecca, being, as well as the
latter, about a day's journey from the (hores of the Red Sea. It is,
according to Niebuhr, a fmall town, furrounded with a paltry wall, little
remarkable except for the tomb of Mahomet.

Sana, or Saana, in Yemen, is reputed at prefcnt the chief city of
Arabia. It is lituated at the bottom of a mountain called Nikkum,
near which is a fpacious garden. The city is not very extenfive,
at one may walk round it m the fpace of an hour, fu that the cir-
cuit cannot exceed four miles ; and even of this fmall fpace a pai:t
is occupied by gardens f. The wal s are of brick, with {even gates;
and there are feveral palaces of burnt brick, or of ftone ; but tlie com-
mon houfes are of bricks dried in the fun. There are feveral fim-
feras, or caravanferas, for merchants and travellers. Fuel is extremely
rare, though there be fome pit-coal and peat ; but wood is fcarce ;

i I

* Gibbon, is. &97.

\ t ^i«b. Dcfe.SOl.

even

490

ARABIA.

even in the Happy Arabia. There are excellent fruits, particularly
grapes of many varieties. About fix miles to the nonh there is a plea-
lant dale, enlivened >yith feveral rivulets j and to the welt is a confider-
able ftream.

When fuch is the chief city of Arabia, the defcription of the others
cannot be very interefting. Judda, or Jedda, is the iiea-port of Mecca.
The town of Mocha ft.ind8 in the Tehama, or plain country of Yemen
and was built about four ce^ituries ago ; it is now chiefly frequented, on
account of its coffee, by Englifh veffcls from Hindoftan. Kefem or
Kefchin, belongs to the country called Mahrah : to the fheik of this
town the noted ifle of Socotra belongs, which is celebrated for aloes*.
The province of Omon is divided among many flieiks, but Roilac is
elteemed the capital. Mafkat is however the moit confiderable town,
and the beft known to Europeans, having an excellent harbour, and
being from early times a ftaple of trade between Arabia, Perfia, and the
Indies. It was ta'ken by the Portuguefe in 1508, and they relnined it
for a century and a half. It is vifited by Englifli Ihips from Hindoftan ;
and fuch is its confequence, that the Imam or prince of Omon is often
ilyled Imam of Maflcat.

Lahfa, ibe capital of the province fo called, is a large and well built
town, ftanding on a torrent, which falls into a confiderable bay oppolite
to the ifle of Bahrin, celebrated for the pearl fifliery f.

Edifices. ] Among the chief edifices of Arabia muft W named the
Kaba, or temple of Mecca, which, according to the reprefentation of
Niebuhr, rather ' refembles the old Afiatic temples of Hindoftan and
Siam than a mofque, being an open fquare, encompafled with a colonade,
and ornamented with minarets, as the others are with ^jyramids or
obeliflts. In this open fpace, which, as well as that of Medina, it feems
improper to call a mofque, there are five or 'fix houfes of prayer, or
chapels ; while in the centre is a fmall fquare edifice, peculiarly ftyled
the Kaba, in which is fixed a black ftone, the early obje6i of Arabian
adoration.

' Manufactures, &c.] The manufaflures of Arabia are of littlt
eonfequence, though the people be mod ingenious and induftrious when
•encowraged by government and opportunities. Even in Yemen the
works in gold and filver, and the coin itfelf, are produced by Jewilh ma.
nufaftories. In all Arabia there, are neither wind-mills nor water-mill!.
Some mufquets are made in the country, but they are mere matchlocks
of mean execution. At Mocha there is one glafs houfe ; and there are
in Yemen fome coarfe linen manufaAures. The ancients vainly
affigned to Arabia the Happy many products which the inhabitants
imported firom the Eall Indies ; but aloes, myrrh, frankincenfe, though
of inferior kind ;}:, conftitute, with doSee, the chief produdls of
Arabia.

Commerce.] The Arabian intercourfe witli Hindoftan has greatly
declined fince the difcoveries of the Portuguefe, whofe fuperior (kill and
maritime force eclipfcd the fmall veffeU of the Arabs. From Yemen
arc exported coffee, aloes, myrrh (the beft of which is from Abyflinia|>
olibanum, or an inferior kind of frankincenfe, fenna, ivory, and gold
'from Abyifinia. The European imports were iron, fteel, cannon, lead,
tin, cochineal, mirrors, knives, fabres, cut glafs, and falfe pearls. Nie>
bur regards aloes and frankincenfe,|(the latter chiefly from Hadramautji

» Nirbuhr, 94fl. f lb. 394. •

. X Ntebohr, ia6 } cvto UiU fub(Unce'.ra« chiefly Trom Abyffiaia and the EaS InJioi-

♦ , , • which I

ARABIA.

491

which borderft eaftwjtrd on Omon, and muft alfo be included in Arabia
Felix, as the only native articks of commerce before coffee came into
ufe*.

i*v

CHAPTER II.

■"'■>.m: run.

Cfmatt and Seafom.-^ Face of the Country. — Soil and Agncuhure» r- Rroert.
— Mountains. — Deferts.—Btttany. — Zoology.'— Mineralogy. — Natural
Curiofities. — JJles.

„ -1 T N the mountains of Yemen there is a re-

Climate AND 8EASOXS.] ^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^ feafon, from the middle of

June to the end of September : but even then the fky is rarely covered
with clouds for twenty-four hours at a time ; and during the remainiier of
the year a cloud is fcarcely to be feen. At Mafkat, and in the eattern
mountains, the rainy feafon extends from the middle of November to
the mid<Ue of iFebruary ; and in Omon there is rain from the middle of
February to the middle of April. In the plainBof Yemen rain is fome;>
times unknown for a whole year ; and in July and Augull the thermo-
meter will be gS°, while at Sana in the mountains it is 85^ In general
the wind from the fea is moid, and that from the interior deferts is dry,
in the northern parts of which are chiefly percdved the difaftrous eifTcdti
of the burning wind called Samiel.

Face op t^e country] The general afpeA of Arabia prcfents
a cenrral defert of great extent, with a few fertile oajest or ifles, as in
Africa ; wliile the flourifliing provinces arethofe fituated on the (hores of
the fea, which fupplies rain fufficient to maintain the vegetation. In
Yemen there are mountains of confiderable height, but cTiiefly barren
and un wooded ; while the temperature and plants form a ftriking con-
trail with thofe df the plains : yet the want of rivers, lakes, and
perennial ftreamsi mult difFufe ideas of fterility through the Arabian
landfcape.

Soil and agriculture.] The nature of the foil has not been in-
dicated ; but a'griculture is occupied in the production of beautiful
wheat, maize, durra a kind qf millet, barley, beans, lentils, rape ; ^'ith
the fugar cane, tobacco, and cotton. A few dyeing drugs, cfpecially
indigo and Indian madder, are ^fo ciiltivated. The grain in general
yields little more than, ten for one : but the durra fometimes greatly ex.
ceeds that ftandard. The plough is fimple ; and the pick is ufed inftcad
ti the fpade* The chief exertion of agricultural indultry is to water
the lands from the xivulets and wells, or by conducing the rains. The
harvelt is torn up by the roots, and forage cut with the fickle. Barley is
reaped near Sana in the middle of July ; but the feafon depends on the
litQation. At Maflcat wheat and barley are fowq in Decembe^^ and
reaped in March.

Rivers.] In the defeft of rivers ftri6tly t>elon^ng to Arabia, the
Euphrates and Tigris, which' pafs through Iriik Arabi, have been claimed
by lome geographers ; and the Euphrates may be aptly confidercd as an
Arabian river. But in Arabia Proper what are called rivers are mere
torrents, which defcend from the mountains during the rains, and for a
thort period afterwards. The molt important river is probablythat which
rifes near Sana, and joins the Indian fea below Harjiah. The fmaller
fireaiQS of Yemen may be traced in Niebuhr's map df that coun-

• Niebidur, 34a,

t^.

49*

ARABIA.

try. The little river of Krim flows from Mahrah' into the fame fea, atid
is followed by two or three brooks in Omon. One or two fraall faljne
lakes occur in fituations encircled with hills, which prevent the water from
pafiing.

Mountains.] The chief range of mountains feems to proceed in the
dire^iion of the Red Sea j towards the N. not more than 30 miles diftant
but fometimes in the S. about ico, a circumftance which imparts extent
and fertility to Yemen. The hills of Omon feem a continuation of thofe
on the other fide of the Perfian gulf: and the ifles in the mouth of ihat
gulf may be regarded as fummits of that range. In the country of Seger,
commonly afcribed to Hadramaut, there is a range of hills remarkable
for the produft of frankincenfe. '

The direAion of the other ranges cannot be afcertained in the im.
perfeft geography of the country. In the divifion called Arabia Petrsa
the celebrated mountain of Sinai muft not be omitted, which prefents two
fublime fummits of red granite.

Deserts.] The fandy deferts of Arabia are more (Iriking objeAs than
the mountains. From Omon to Mecca the greater part of Negcd is one
prodigious defert, interrupted towards the frontiers of Hejaz and Yemen
by ]^g^, containing the diftrift of Surfa, and fome fertile fpots and
towns, mdicated by Niebuhr. The N. W. part of Neged prefents almoft
a continued defert, a prolongation as appears of the other, with an oo/u,
Ared on the W. of Lahfa, including Jabrin, and fome other places men-
tioned by the fame author. In this defert there is alfo the oajis pf mount
Schamer, and perhaps feveral others, which may remain for a long time
unknown to geography.

Botany.] The greater part of Arabia being compofed of dry barren
deferts of fand, wholly deilitute .of rivers, and containing but here and
there a few fcanty fprings of brackifli water, offers no adequate recom.
pence to botanical inveitigations. The vegetables in thefe diftri£ts are
of rare occurrence, and confift chiefly of the faline fucculent fpecies able
to endure the full force of a vertical fun, with no other refrefhment than
what is afforded by the nightly dews. The greater p rt of them have
little external beauty, and when found in more propitious climates obtain
notice only from their Angularity : here, however, they ferve to mitigate
the thirft of the parched camel, and to keep up the fpirits of the tolling
caravan, by breaking in occafionally on the melancholy uniformity of the
defert. A more interefling fcene however is prefented to the botanift on
the weftem fide of the Arabian defert ; here numerous rivulets defcend
from the mountains into the Red Sea, and fcatter with a lavifh hand
fragrance and verdure wherever they flow : the- mountains themfelvestoo,
whence thefe ilreams originate, abound in vegetation, fo that the plants in
this part of Arabia may be conveniently diflributed into three clafles,
namely thofe that inhabit the fea fhore, the plains, and the mountains.
The hrft of thefe divifions bears a near affinity to the fcanty flora of the
defert : a fandy foil impregnated with fait, and an open expofure to the
influence of the fun, produce fimilar effeSs in both fituations. The
champaign country between the fhore and the mountains, though traverfed
by ftreams, is yet too deficient in water to fupport the luxuriant ve^eta*
tibn that diftinguifhes the plains of India ; the lower ^ifii are chiefly
occupied by graffes and other humble plants, which afford a moft grateful
fuftenance to the flocks and herds of the palloral tribes that wander over
them. The fides of the rivers, the valleys among the mountains, and thq
plains at their feet, are far fuperior to the reft of the country. Here
cultivation and nature feem to contend with each other in the hchncfs of
_. their

ARABIA.

493

tAfclr produ£iion9 ; nor is it eafy to afllgn exactly the iimita of each.
Many of the Indian and Perlian plants, di(lin.;'ii(hed for their beauty or
ufe, nave been tranfported hither in former ages, and are now foitnd in a
truly indigenous itate ; this is probably the cafe with the tamarind, the
cotton tree, the pomegranate, the banyan tree or Indian fig, the fugar
cane, and a multitude of valuable fpecies and varieties pf n^elons and
ffourds. Two valuable trees however, are the peculiar boaft of Arabia
felix, namely, the coffee, found both cultivated and wild, and the amyris
opobalfamum, from which in procured the balm of Mecca, the mod fra-
grant and colUy of all the gum-r^fins. There are no proper forefts in
Arabia, altliough groves and fcattered trees are by no means unfrequent
among the mountains. Of the palms, it poffefles the date, the cocoa nut,
and the great fan -palm. The fycemore fig, the plantain, the almond
and apricot, the bead tree, the mimdfa nilotica and fenfitiva, and the
orange, nearly complete the catalogue of its native and cultivated trees.
The lift of (hrubs.and herbaceous plants docs not contain many that would
be interefting to the general reader : among thefe however may be par-
ticularized the ricinus, the liquorice, and the feana, all Ufed in medicine ;
and the white lily and greater pancratium, diftinguifhed for their beauty
and fragrance.

Zoology.] The horfe is the glory of Arabian zoology. According
to Zimmerman this animal is found wild in the extenfive deferts on the
N. of Hadramaut *. They are here divided into two great clafles, the
Kadi/bi, or common kind, whofe genealogy has not been preferved : and
the Ktckan'h or noble horfes, whole breed has been afcertained for two
"thoiifand years, proceeding as they fable, from the ftalls of Solomon.
Thefe will bear the greatelt fatigues and pafs whole days without food,
hving on air, to ufe the Arabian metaphor. They are faid to lufh on
a foe with impetuofity ; and it is affcrted that fome of this noble race,
when wounded in battle, will withdraw to a fpot where their mailer
nny be fecure ; and if he fall they will neigh for affillance. The
Kochlani are neither large nor beautiful, nor is their figure at all re-
garded ; their race and hereditary qualities being the fole objeds of
ellimation. They are chiefly reared by the Beduins, in the northern
defertg between Perfia and Syria. The prefervation of the breed is
carefully and authentically witneffed ; and the offspring of a Kochlani
llallion with an ignoble mare is reputed Kadi/bi. The Arabian fteeds
are fometimcs bought at exceiTive rates by the £ngli(h at Mocha. There
is alfo in this country a fuperior breed ot alTes, approaching in form and
qualities to the, mule, and fold at high prices.

This region, or Africa, feems alfo the native country of the camel,
I emphatically llyled by the orientals the (hip of the defert ; being, by
the expanfion of its feet, the faculty of bearing thirft and hunger, and
other qualities, peculiarly adapted by the author of nature to peram-
bulate the fandy waftes which would otherwife remain unpalFable.

The buffalo feems unknown, being an animal which delights in mud
I and water ; but the cattle have generally a hunch on the (houlder. The
breed of fheep has not been particularly illuftrated ; but it would appear
that both the wool and mutton are coarfe. The rock goat is faid to be
I found in the mountains of Arabia Petrza. The other animals are the
Ijakkal, or chacal ; the hyena towards the Perfian gulf ; numerous mon-
jkeys in the woods of Yemen % the jerboa, or rat of Pharaoh, in Neged :
jtliere are alfo antelopps, and wild oxen, with wolves, foxes^ and wild

f "Zoologia Geqgrapbica, 1)^7 7, 4to. p. 140 firoa. Leo Afric.

5 boars,

\r^.

494

ARABIA.

boars, and the large and ftnall panther. The tiger feema utterly ua»
known ; and the lion only appears beyond the Euphrates. Arhon? the
birds may be named the pheafant, common in the woods of Yemen as
the grey partridcfe is in the plains ; while the oftrich is no ftranger in the
deferts. A bird of the thrufh kind, venerated becaiife it deltroys the
locufts, is thought to come annually from Corafan. Land tortoifes
abound ; and are eaten by the Chridians in Lent. A little flender fer-
pent, called baetan, fpotted with black and white, is of a nature remark-
ably poifonous, the bite being inftant death. The locuil too is nume.
rous; but the natives etleem the red kind as a fat and juicy food
and view it with no more averfion than flicimps or prawns are beheld
by us.

Mikeralooy;^ The mineralogy of Arabia is of fmall impdrtance.
Having no native gold, the peopR are ftiU addided to the infatuation of
alchemy. Nor is filver found, excejpt mlogUd, as ufual, with lead in the
mines of Oraon. There are fome mines of iron in the diftridi of Saade
in the N. of Yemen j but the nietal is brittle. Thofe agates containing
extraneous fubftances, which from the town are called Mocha-ftonea, are
brought from Surat *. The beft cornelians alfo come from the gulf of
Cambay. But Arabia produces onyxes in the province of Yemen.
Rock fait alfo appears near Loheia. Not one of the gems appears to be
produced in Arabia. Near ^amada, in a diflri£l of Yemen called
Kaukeban, there is a warm fpring of mineral U'ater.

Natural cuaiostTiEs.] Several of thofe uncommon appearances
which geographers ftyle natural curiolities, may, no doubt, be found in
this extcnfive cguntry, when more thoroughly eixplorcd. Amidft the
deficiency of water, it is not furprifing that the grand refervoir near the
ancient city of Mareb, though in a fmall jaart a work of art, was regarded
as a Angular exertion of nature f. March is ftill the chief town of. the
province of Jof, about 75 B. miles N.E. from Sana, containing ahoiit
300 mean houfes with a wall and three gates. In an adjacent vale, about
^o B. miles in length, were united fix or fevcn rivulets, running from the
weft and from the fouth, partly from Yemen ; and fome faid to be pcieii.
nial ftreams, full of fiih. The two chains of mountains, incloling this
vale, approach fo near at the eaft end that the fpace might be walked over
in five or fix minutes ; or was about a quarter of a mile. This upenin^r
being (liut by a thick wall the water was retained, and imparted partituhr
advantages to agricvdture. Bnt the wall, conilrutled of large mafios of
hewn ftone to the height of forty or fifty feet, was neglefted after the f.ill
of the Sabean kingdom ; and burft in the middle, leaving only the ruiiis
on both fides, {o that the water is now loft . in the defert on the N. uF{
Hadramaut.

Isles.] Befides feveral ifles of little confequence in the Arabian gnifJ
there are two iflands which dciierve particular notice. Socotra, about ^40
B. miles from the fouthern coall of Arabia, appears in all ages tu|
have belonged to that country, and to have been celebrated for the pro-
du£lion of uoes, ftill efteemed fuperior to any other. The inhabitants m
dearly of Arabian extra6t. There are two bays, and fome fecure liar<
bours ; and the ifle is alfo faid to produce frankincenfe, while ambergris
and coral are fbund in the neighbouring feas. The ifle of Bahrin is in tl
Perfian gulf, near the Arabian coaft, and remarkable for the great pearl
fifhery in its neighbourhood. The name Ba&rin is a modern appellation j
for Abulfeda, as well as the Arabs of Lahfa, call the large ifle Aual. Th«

iahabitants of A
fion. In the lar
there may be foi

Qmtral ulrrangemet

HAVING thu
Afia, fo far
difficult field of in\
and thofe fituated
Ocean.

Thefe regions an
in? of almoft a new
of i/les in the Paci/i
Afia, that they cam
lonp fince obferved I
m a century ago
namely New Hollan
H^^AuJiralafta, an
l/reek term implyin.
or rather continent c
o«rs that of Afia, a.
be properly fucceed
one; which are far
by brief paffages wit!
which may however 1
foas to be connefted
mindedthatinthisq
ycursjfortheiflan,
Jjrope, are fufficie,
Afiaticiflands, enorn
"tent, as to embroil
Prcfent only vague

itr' Proper arra
'fome limits between tb
I As the continent of
Jr^n* from the Pacifi
t;° the ancient

Hed New Holland n
H.a„ and Pacific, th
^«'wa/hedbyth;i'

Niebuhr^ 12S,

t lb. S40.

uihabitantl

'Hiflei

"^deiNavi

'1
1

ASIATIC ISLANDS.

inhabitants of Aual, and the fmaller ifles, are Arabs of the Chia perfua-
fion. In the large ifle there is a fortified tow.i j and in the whole group
there may be forty or fifty mean villages*

M ■ I latayi^^

ASIATIC ISLANDS.

INTRODUeTION.

Gtmral Arrangement of the AJiatic IJlands^ including Aujlrdafia and Polynejia.

HAVING thus compbted the defcription of the wide, continent of
Afia, fo far as the limits afligned to this work would admit, a
diiiicult field of inveftigation opens m the innumerable Afiatic iflands,
and thofe fituated in the Pacific, or more properly Great Oriental
Ocean.

Thefe regions are, however, of fo wide and diftin^ a nature, confift-
in^ of almoft a new continent in the fouth of Afia, and fcattered groups
of ifles in the Pacific, many of them nearer to South America than to
Afia, that they cannot well be blended under one denomination, as was
long fince obferved by the learned prefident De Brofles, who, nearly
half a century- ago, propofed that the countries to the fouth of Afia,
namely New Holland, New Guinea, and New Zealand, &c. fhould be
^\ii\AuJlralq/iat and the numerous ifles in the Pacific Polynejiay from a
Greek term implying many iflands *. A defcription of the large ifland
or rather continent of New Holland with its appendages naturally fol-
lows that of Afia, and the Afiatic iflands in the Indian ocean ; and will
be properly fucceeded by that of Polynefia, or the iflands in the Pa-
cific ; which are far remote from the American coaft, but are connedted
by brief pafTages with Auftralafia, the Sandwich iflands alone excepted,
which may however be followed by groups to be difcovered to the S.W.
fo as to be connefted with Polynefia. Thd reader needs fcarcely be re-
minded that in this quarter alone of the world this remarkable exception
I occurs ; for the iflands belonging to both Americas, to Africa, and to
Europe, are fufficiently dilHndl and appropriated, wlule the name of
I Afiatic iflands, enormous as Afia itfeli^, might be diffufed to fuch an
Ktent, as to embroil the utmolt powers of geographical defcription, and
prefent only vague confufion, inftead of fcientific precifion. Before
however a proper arrangement can be' followed, it will be proper to fix
I fome limits between the Indian and Pacific Oceans.

As the continent of America divides the Atlantic, or Great Weftern
I Ocean, from the Pacific, or Great Eallern Ocean, (bot^i fo termed in re-
Iktion to the ancient and civilized world,) and as Africa divides the At-
lantic from the Indian ocean, fe, by parallel ufage and dedudlion, what is
piled New Holland may be confidered as the fixed divifion between the
jlndian and Pacific, thus claiming with juftice the authority of a conti-
«nt, wafhed by the Indian ocean on the wefl;, and the Pacific on the call |

* Uifloln des Navigation! aux Tcr#« AuAnlei. Pwii, 17»6, 9 vok. 4to.
bitaniB ^-hUe

49^

ASIATIC ISLANDS.

while a line drawn from the moft prominent central capes, in the North
arid South, may be regarded as a boundary of thefe two oceans. The
fouthem extenfion of this imaginary line is of little moment ; but in the
north it mull be confidercd as .a divilion of great importance to precife
difculfion, as the ifles on the weft mud be confidercd as Uriftly Afiatic,
and intimately cCnnedled with the defcription of Afia : while thofc on the
right belong to Auftralafia and Polynefia. -This divifion muft naturally
and unavoidably depend on the obfervation of the wideft channel between
the Molucca Iflands *, and Papua, or New Guinea : and tlie degree of
longitude, 130 from London, feems nearly to amount to a boundary.
Hence Amboyna belongs to the Afiatic ifles, while Timor-laut belongs
to Auftralafia. The meridian of boundary paffcs through Ccram ; but
the proximity of that ifle to Amboyna may properly conneft it with the
Afiatic ifles, with which Myfol may alfo be claffed. From the N W.
extremity of Papua, or rather fome fmall iflands lying at that extremitv,
a clear line may be drawn, following the fame meridian, and leaving G\.
lolo among the Afiatic ifles on the W. aiid thofe of Pelew among the Po.
lynefian in the Pacific. This line then bending N. W. would include the
Philippine iflands and the B«fliees, pafling to the S. of Formofa; the
other limits and appellations being fufficicntly clear.

Such may therefore be the aifumed boundary botwecn the Indian
ocean and Chinefe fea on the W. and the Pacific on the E. and between
the Afiatic ifles, and Auftralafia and Polynefia. The boundary be.
tween the two latter great divifions may be traced by regarding what
m called New Holland as a continent, or great leading iiland, with
which thofe moft adjacent mail be regarded as connected. Hence
Papua belongs to Auftralafia : and a line drawn in the latitude of three
or four degrees to the N. of the equator, and then pafling S. in the
meridian of 170' E. from Greenwich, fo as to include the New
Hebudes, thence in the parallel of 30' S. gradually ftretching to
175^ W. from Greenwich, including New Zealr.nd, and the ille called
Chatham, will prefent the natural and precife boundary of Auf-
tralafia.

That divifion called Polynefia, bv far the moft extcnfive, adjoins tlie
W. to the hoe above drawn around the Afiatic ifles ; thence it afcend?
about lat. iS' l^ng. 128 E. in a north-eaft direction, fo as to include
the ifle called Rica dc Plata, long. 161 , and thence curving S. £. and
encompafling the northern Sandwich iflands, where our great navigator
fellf, and the Marquefas, and extending to 120^ W. from London.
Any ifles to the N. £. or E. of this line of demarkation may be regarded
as belonging to North or South America. .

The i^uthcra boundary of the Afiatic ifles may be cenfidcred as fuf-
ficiently afccrtained by the wide channel between them and New Hol-
land ; while the N. W . extremity of Sumatra may prefent a meridian of
reparation on the W. between the Afiatic ifles, eminently fp'ftyled, and
thofe in the Indian ocean. The fame weftern boundary may be afiigned
. to Auftralafia.

The fouthern limits of the laft, and of Polynefia, alone remain ;
but as few or no iflands have been difcovered to the S. of New Zea*
land, the parallel of 50-* S. lat. may be laftly afliimeu as the boundary |
of both.

* Thit name, originally eonfinrJ to five fmall illandt, iiu been cx'etided by (he French |
geogTa|jhcri (o a lBrf;e ((roup >M:iir«rn )lorii«o aiMl New Guinea.

t 'lliere are other Sandwich iflandi, lat. 59* S,, or benuih the parallel of Ci|i« Horn.

Such ii Um perplexitf of the tacwvid BoaMiwlaturf . , ,

•^ •• Polynefia

the breadth lat. 3"^ ]

ASIATIC ISLES.

497

Polynefia will thus extend frqm 50'' S. lat. to about 35' N. lat. that
isSc'j or 5100 g. miles ; while the breadth taken from long. 170^ E.
from Greenwich, to 130^ W. upon the equator itfelf, will )ield fixty
degrees, or 3,600 g. miles.

The length of Auftralafra may be computed from 95** of the fame lon-
gitude to 185'. that is 90' in lat. 30, or nearly 5000 g. miles; while
the breadth lat. 3" N. to lat. 50' S., will be 3,180 g. miles.

Even the fmalleft divifion, that of the Aliatic ifles, which has been
called the Oriental Archipelago, is .of great extent from 13^ S. lat. ttt
22' N. Iat.4hat is 35^ or 2,100 g. miles ; while the length from 95° E.
long, to 132'', yields 37 degrees not far from the equator> nearly cor-
refponding with tlie breadth.

UMi :

ASIATIC ISLES.

■.1 !

'S. 'ZU

Arrangement of thofe m the Oriental Archipelago. — I , /fiet of Sunelat or
Sutnatran Chain, —2, Borneo.— y Manillas. — /^, CeUifzian I/lest -^
5. Spice JJlands. •

AN infpeftion of the maps and charts of this part of the globe will
(hew that a great chain of iflands, connected with much proximity*
extends from Sumatra N. W. to I^ackal or Lachal S. E. This chain
includes Sumatra, \ Java, Balli, Sumbava, Florez, and Timor, as the
chief ifles ; with Sumba in the 8., and in the N. Madura, Billiton,
Banca, &c. This chain, divided and diftinguifhed by the hand of
nature, might either be termed the Sumatran iflands, from the chief,
or the received name of ifles of Sunda may be extended and reftrifted
to this group : which, bolides the ilrait fo called,' prefents many other
founds or paflages from the Indian ocean towards the Pacific and the
Chinefe fea,

Borneo, an idaod of vaft extent, (hould not be confidered as belonging
to any group ; but the fmall ifles around it may be termed the Bornean
iflands, as the Sooloos, Pulo Laut, Anumba, Natuna.

The Philippine iflands may already be regarded as the mod regular and
prccife group in thefe leas, including the Baihees, and «thcr little groups
in the north, and Mindanao and Pu*awan in the fuuth.

There remains the lar^-e ifland of Cflebcz, which u>ay be confidered as
grouped with ShuUa, Boutan, Salayar, &c. and the whole may be termed
the Celebczian ifles.

The Molucca iflands, an ancient and venerable name, are properly only
iiTe of fmall fize, on the weit of Gilolo : but it feems proper to extend
this appellation to Gilolo, Myfol, Ceram, Amboyna and Bands. The
remaining ifles in the S. E. belong to Papua in Aultralafia.

Thefe five divifions are not only indicated by the hand <ff nature, but
fcem fufficient for a defcription of this valt archipelago. .

ffi

I. THE ISLES OF iVkDA, OR THE SUMATRAN CHAIN.

This divifion, as already explained, comprifes <Sumatjra, Java, Balli,
Lombok, Sumbava, Flurcz, and Timor } with fevcral ifles of left note
in the vicinity of tltefe.

Sumatra is an ifland of great extent, being not lefs than 9^0 B. miles
inlfngth, by about aoo in breadth \ tor ou fo vali a fcale are the regions

K k connected

498

ASIATIC ISLES.

conne6^ed ivith Afia, that Great Britain, if fituated in the oriental arch{>
pclagO) would only in fizc rival Sumatra and Borneo. The Engllfii
fettlenient of Bencoolen, in the S.£. part of this ifland, has occafioned par.
ticular attention to its nature and produdUons, efpecially fince Mr. Maiden
publifhcd an ample and intellip^ent account of this interefting ifland, from
which this brief defcription mall be abftrafied *. It was certainly un.
known to the ancients, the information of Ptolemy terminating confider.
ably to the north, and the mountain of Ophir, whence fome have fup.
poled this country known to Solomon, is a modern European denomijia.
tion. The Arabs feem te have been acquainted with this ifland in the
9th century, but it became firft known to Europeans in the i6th. A
chain of mountains runs through the whole ifle, the ranges being in many
parts double and treble, generally nearer to the weftem coaft, where they
approach withia twenty miles of the fea ; but the height is not fo conri.
derable as to retain fnow. Mount Ophir, immediately under the equj.
no£Ual line, is 13,842 feet above the fea, only yielding about 2,000 feet
to .nount Blanc. Between the ridges of mountains are elevated plains,
with lakes and waterfalls, one of which is from the fummit of a conic
mountain. There are many rivers on the weftem coaft, but commonly
impeded by fand^banks, fo as to prefent few means of navigation. In the
midft of what is called the Torrid Zone the thermometer feldom rifes above
85% while in Bengal it attains loi'i and the inland inhabitants of the
mountains ufe fires to difpel the morning cold ; yet froft, fnow, and hail
are unknown. Thunder and lightning are frequent, particularly during
the N.W. monfoon. The year has two divifions, called the rainy and
dry monfoons ; the S.E. or dry, beginnnig about May and ending with
September ; the N.W. or wet, beginnins in November, and ending about
March ; the intermediate months, Apriland May, OAober and Novem*
ber, being variable : on the weft coaft the fea breeze begins about ten Id
the forenoon, and continues till fix in the evening { bemg fucceeded by
the land breeze during the night. The foil is generally ftiff reddifli clay,
covered with a layer of black mould, the fource of perpetual verdure ;
but three quarters of the ifle, efpecially towards tne fouth, prefent
an impervious foreft. On the weft, between the mountains and the fea,
there are large fwamps t but even here the face of the country is remark*
ably broken and uneven. There feem to be many mines of gold, though
moftlv negleAed ; and the copper is mingled with that metal. There are
excellent ores of iron and fteel : and that rare mineral, tin, is one of the
chief exports, being principally found near Palimbang on the eaftern fliore,
a continuation probably of the rich beds of Banca. Gold is found near
Beifcoolen, and in other places, but of inferior quality. The little ifland
•f Poolo Pifang, clofe to the foot of mount Poogon, is moftly a bed uf
rock cryftal. There are feveral volcanic mountains in Sumatra, u io
moft of the other iflands of the oriental archipelago, but eruptions are un*
frequent. The fea coaft is chiefly occi\picd bv the Malays, who feem to
be recent fettlers, and their language a dialeu of a fpecch moft widely
extended, from Malacca, and perhaps the fouth of Hmdoftan, nearly at
far as the weftem coafts of America, through the innumerable iflandi of
fhe Pacific. By the account of Mr. Marfuen there are inland races, of
whom the Googuo are covered with lono; hair, and little fuperior to thr
Orang Outangs of Borneo. The chief native fovereirnty is that of
Mmanc: Cabou, hut the Rejangs feem tp retain the purelt race and man>
ncrs. They arc rather fliort and flender : the nofei of ioftntl are flit*

n »

' Hii^wy of SuoMrsi 1 r»«i 4t«. 9d atti

Iwe^

ASIATIC ISLES.

499

^nedif and their ears extended ; but the eyes tri dark and clear. The
complexion is properly yellow, being withoilt the red tinge, which con-
llitutes a tawny or copper colour : but the fuperior clau of women is
fair, and commonly of not unpleafing countenances.

The chief diilindion between the natives and the Malays of the coaft
feems to b^> that the former are fairer and ftron^r. The original cloth-
ing is made of the inner hark of trees, as in Otaheite i biit the drefs of the
Malays contiils of a veil, a robe, and a kind of mantle, with a girdle, in
which is the creett or dagger. The villages are commonly on hills, and
(urrounded with fruit trees, the balli, or common hall, being in the centre.
The houfes arc of wood and bamboos, covered with leaves of palm, {land>
ing on pillars, and fcaled by a rude ladder. The furniture is of courfe
fitnple, and common food rice { fago, though common, being lefs ufed
thaii in the illinds farther to the eail. The horfes are fmalU but well made.
and hardy : the cows and (heep alfo diminutive, the latter probably front,
Bengal. Here are alfo found the elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus,
tizer, bear, otter, porcupine, deer, wild hog, civet cat, with many varie*
ties of the monkey. The buffalo is employed in domeftic labour.
Among birds, the Sumatran or Argus pheafant is of diilinguifhcd beauty.
The jungle fowl, or wild poultry, alfo appear ; and there is a breed in
the fouth of remarkable height, likewife found in Bantam, on the welt
of Java, which alfo gives name to the well known fmall breed. In-
fffts of all kinds fwarm, particularly the dellruAive termites. The
moil abundant article is pepper, the obje£t of the Britifh fettlemcnt ;
being produced by a climbing plant refembling a vine. The white pep-
per is procured by dripping the outer hufk from the ripe grains. Cam-
phor is another remarkable vegetable product ; and caflia, a coarfe kind o£
cinnamon, is found in the central parts of the country. Rattans are ex-
ported to Europe for walking canes. " The ftlk cotton (bombax ceiba)
u alio to be met with in every village. This is, to appearance, one of
the molt beautiful raw materials the hand of nature has prefented. Its
lincnefs, glofs, and delicate foftnefs, render it to the fight and touch much
riur to the Ubour of the filk worm : but, owing to the (hortnefs
and brittlenefs of the ftaple, it is elleemed unHt for the reel and loom,
and ii only applied to the unworthy purpofe of ftufSng pillows and
mattrefles. It grows in pods from four to iix inches lung, which burit
I open when ripe. The feeds entirely refemble the black pepper, but are
without talle. The tree is remarkable from the branches growing out
perfc(^ly Untight and horizontal, and being always three, fom^ing equal
angles at the fume height : the dinninutive (huots, likewife grow flat y
and the feveral gradations of branches obferve the fame re^rularity to the
top. Some travdlers Imve called it the Umbrella tree, bui the piece of
furniture called a dumb waiter, exhibit.H a more ftriking pidure of it *."
The commerce is chiefly with HindoiUn and China. The Malays ex-
Icel in gold and lilver fiUagree, and in weaving fillc and eitton ; but the
jmanufadliircs are iinperfed, and the fcienccs little cultivated Bcfidcs
Ithe Malays, feveral languages arc fpoken, which fcem however to have
la manifell afSnity among themfelves, and with that widely diflufed
tfprech which may be called the Polynefian, as it is dilTufed tlirough in-
numerable iflaiids in the Paciiic. Even the rudcll tribes of Sum:itni and
khe other Aiiatic ides, as far as the utmoll bounds of Polyneha, difplay
kcertain degreo of civilization. The panjeran or prince prtlides over
Tiany magillrattM } but his government is limiued, his power being con-

• Mtrfdcn, J 97,
Kka

Gned

50O

ASIATIC ISLES.

fined by his poverty. Laws are unknown, the chief rendering judirnient
jiccording to cuftoms. Moft crimes are compenfated by money, murder
hfelf not excepted. The difficulties attending marriage form an exception
to the general cuiloms of uncivilized countries, and the general chaftitv
feems remarkabfe. The celebration is commonly in the balli, or villaee
halU and is accompanied with dances and fongs. Combats of cocks and
quails are among the moft favourite amufements, together with dances
dice, and other games. The ufe of opium is extenfive, but rarely leads to
other exceiTes. What is called a muck, by the natives mongamo, rather
proceeds from revenge, or a fenfe of oppreflion, than from intoxication.
The Chriftian religion is unknown in Sumatra, the miilionaries havin?
tinaccouhtably negle£led this laree iiland. The kingdom of Acheen in
theN.W. extremity of the ifland carries on a .confiderable trade with the
coaft of Coromandel. The natives arc more itout and tall, and of a darker
complexion than the other Sumatrans.

Several fmall ifles encompafs Sumatra. Banca is particularlycclebrated
for its tin *. Of Billeton little is known ; nor of the ifles that lie between
Sumatra and Malacca, called Pitti, and other nimcs, with the common
addition of Pulot which in thefel feas appears to imply an idand, bein? a
Malay term. On the W. the NafTau or Poggy ifles have been lately noted
for their inhabitants, difllmilar from their neighbours, and approaching
the Otaheitans in the amiable fimplicity of their manners, as well as in
their perfonal appearance, wlule their colour, like that of the Malays, is
light brown or copper f. Java is not only an extenfive ifland, about 650
B. miles in length by about 100 of medial breadth, but is remarkable ior
the city of Batavia, the celebrated capital of the Dutch pofrefiicns. 'I'liij
ifland, like the former, abounds with forefts, and prefcnts an enchanting
Tcrdure.' It feems alfo interfedted by a ridgre of mountains, like a fpinc,
pervading its length j:. Batavia is ftrongly fortified with walls, and a
citadel towards the fea. There ane many canals about four feet in depth,
and the town is large and well built of ftone. This metropolis of the
oriental archipelago prefents many nations and languages ; and the Chinefe
conftitute the greater part of the inhabitants, being contented, for the
fake of gain, to- forget the tombs of their anceftors, and the laws of their
country againft emigration. The Malay language, the French of theeaft,
is here univerfally underftood. The ilreets are planted with large trees,
which practice, with the Dutch canals, probably contributes to the un*
healthinefs of thi» I'pot. The boat is not fo intenfe conftdered in itfclf,
being between 80^' and 86 , as from the low fituation of the town, and
the murky exhalations from the bogs, canals, and a muddy fea, whence
' from nine o'clock till four it is impo^ible to walk out. The fan being
nearly vertical, rifes and lets about fix thro\tghout the year ; but the
nodlurnal rcpofe is infeiled by moikitos. In the evening, from fix to
nine, parties arc formed, and intemperance aflifts the poifon of the
climate. The water is aifu of a bad quahty. The air is fo unwhoie*
fime, from fetid fogs and other caufes, that clyfenteries and putridi
fevers dcftroy prodigious numbers ; and of three fettlers it is rare thatj
one outlives the year. The rainy feafoq begins with Deccmki
and lalU till March, Crocodiles abound in the rivers, as in mod d

* The induflricas tranflator of Sitvorinui, vol. I. p. 997, ftyt that thefa minet wenod]
fiircoviYed ill 1 7 1 • ur 1 7 11 , mihI thuugli iIm Dutch racciv* about tbrea luillioiu «(' pn'
wriglii, the vein faemt inexliauiiible.

t Af. R«f.vi.77.

t'ibuiilcr^sli. ai3. FuratolrrulilemApof Java fire the voyage ofSiavorioui, 179^1'''

iili, where iheie ii alfo a lung aud minute drfcrlptlon oi' the ifland.

This ifland is reput
difcoveries feems only
Europe in fize, may
iicri feems clearly to be
is 3000 miles in circuit
greatett breadth.

The interior parts i
though a confiderable
moft due fouth, formi
M feveral villages on 1
farCTeaterpartof Bor
confiftscf fwampi, co,
and great fizes, which
of the Ifland. The un
oranch into multitudes «
parts. Lofty mountain
";any are volcanic. «,
The houfes are .ften 1
tothefliore, and may b

convenience of the inU
Macaflers from Cdel,e.
Jf. blacks, with long ]„

hw features are fuperit
Jave been unfuccef.fi.I.

al>vund» in the interior ic

ASIATIC ISLES.

501

the oriental ifles. Java is divided into three or four principalities, the
chief being the emperor of Surikarta. The produfis reiemble thofe
of Sumatra ; and the exiftence of the poifonous tree, which has fupplied
Dr. Darwin with a highly poetictd defcription, appears to be completely
confuted.

The fmall ifle of Madura, on the N. of Java, had i n independent
prince, whofe fufferings under the tyranny of the Dutch have been
repeated by Mr. Pennant*. The Dutch phlegm feems to have led
th^ to greater cruelties than the fanaticifm of the Portuguefe or
Spaniards ; and it is to be regretted that the Englifh had not retained
for fume years the poflcffion of the Dutch fettlements, to convince
the Batavians, by example, that conquefts may be better maintained
by lenity than by fordid cruelty. The ifle of Balli feems only re-
markable for furni(hing flaves, cotton, yarn> and pickled pork f. Of
Xiombok, Sumbava, and Florez, little is known. Timor was difco-
vered in 1522 by the companions of Magalhaens, who found in it alone
thewliite fandal wood j:. Tlie Portuguefe after a long ftruggle effefted
afettlement, but were expelled by the Dutch in 161 3, who regard this
ille as a kind of barrier of the fpice trade. Timor is nearly 20Q miles
in length, by 60 in breadth ; and the inhabitants are eileemed the braveit
in the Oriental Archipelago. ,, ,. ,. v ,» t'»,j ••> ,.-

1.;;-: -^'^ .m-l

J», >

II.

BORNEO. i- 1,1

.L -^i

This ifland is reputed the largeft in the world ; and even after recent
difcoveries feems only to yield to New Holland, which, as it rivals
Europe in fize, may more properly be regarded as a continent. Bor-
neo feems clearly to be the Greater Java of Marco Polo, which he fays
is 3000 miles in circuit, as it is about 900 miles in length, by 600 at itt
greatett breadth.

The interior parts of the great ifland of Borneo are little knowni
though a conlidcrable river flows from the centre of the country al-
raoft due fouth, forming the harbour of Bender Maflin ; and the names
of feveral villages on the banks are laid down by D'Anville. " The
far greater part of Borneo next to the fea, efpecially the northern fide,
conuftj of Iwampi, covered with forcfts of trees ot numberlefs fpecies
and great fizes, which penetrate for fcorcs uf miles towards the centre
of the ifland. The unliable muddy flats are divided by rivers, which
branch into multitudes of canals, and are the only roads into the interior
parts. Lofty mountains are faid to rife in the middle of the ifland :
many are volcanic, and often occafion tremendous earthquakes $."
The houfes are eften built on polls fixed in rafts, which are moored
to the fliore, and may be moved from place to place according to the
convenience of the inhabitants. The cojifls are held by Malays, Moors,
Macaflers from Celeliez, and even Japanefe. The natives in the interior
are blacks, with long hair, of a middle llatut;e, feeble and inadive 1 but
their ft-atures are fuperior to thofe of negroes. European fcttlement»
have been unfucccfstul, the adventurers having been maffacrcd. Pepper
abounds in the interior country, with the gum called the dragon's blood|

* Outlinri, iv. .1 1 . S«c, |h. <2 8 , tlie maflkcrt ot 1 1 ,000 Chiule in 1 7 40. "^

fSceFofftt, 170. i

tl'rrmifrVoyafieau tout du Monde ptrPigsfetu. riuti,an 9, p. 313,914. ''
^rimiuit'tOuiUnoi, W. 6st.

Jtk3

camphor*

^09

ASIATIC ISLES.

camphor, and fandal wood. Edible birdq' iiefts are abundant. Gold ii
found in the interior country ; where there are alfo faid to be diamonds
but inferior to thofe of Golconda. The Orang Outang abnund^'
The natives are called Biajos, but their language has not been ex,
plained : they are faid to ofrer facrifices of fweet-fcented wood to utm
lupreme beneficient deity ; and the fentimcnts of piety, or, in other
words, of delightful gratitude, are accompanied by laudable morals.
The Biajos come down the great river of Benjar to the port of Maf-
feen in rude boats, with gold dull au4 other articles, the Moors called
Banjareens bein^^ the fadors. • Thefe Biajos arc tattooed blue, with n
fmaU virrapper about the loins. The chiefs extrafl pne or two of the
fore teeth, fubftituting others of gold ; and firings of the teeth of tigers,
a real badge of knighthood, or courage, are wori^ round the neck.
The town called Borneo on the N.W. confitls of about 3000 houies,
floating as above defcribed : it was greatly frequented by the Cliinefe,
vrho probably continue to be the chief traders to Borneo.

This large ifland is furrounded with many fmall ifles, which, from
their relation to this comparative continent, may be termed Bornean
idands. Such is the group of Sooloo in the N. £. ; of which Mr.
X)alrymple, Who vifited them, has given a good account, They are
rich in pearls, for which they were noticed in the time of Magah
haens. The chief ifle is thirty rpiles by twelve : the natives rather
polifhed, the government being veiled in a fultan, for the Mahometan
religion extends thus far *. The ille of Tawee lies between the Soo-
loos and Borneo. At the nprthem extremity is Banguey, not ht
from Balabac, the m^ft S. W. of the Philippines ; and ^alamban.
gan, remarkable for a fettlement attempted by the Englifh in 1773,
but evapuated, either on account of the unhealthy climate, or uf a
Dutch invafion. To the W. of Borneo are the groups of Natuna and
Anamba little vifited or known ; an obfervation applicable alfo to (t.
vera! ifles in the S. of Borneo ; but Pulo Laut, which by D' Anville is
reprefented as an ifle, is by later difcoveries attached to the contincni
9f Borneo. ^ .

; III. THE MANILLAS, on PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. ^i

This large group was difcovered by Magalhaens in 1521, wk
called them the Archipelago of St. Lazarus { but they were afterward*
ilyle^ the FhilippincSy in nonpur pf that infamous tyrant Philip II. vt
Spain. .

Luzon is the largeft and mofl important of thcfe ifles, being mart
than feven degrees, or near 500 Bntifh miles in length, by about 100
of medial breadth. The jealoufy of the Spaniards has prevented tlie
acquifition pf precife knowledge jroncerning this important ifland, which
is pervade<^ in its length by a chain of high mountams toyyards ilw eali.
Gold, copper, and iron are among the certain produces ; and the foil
is reported to be uncommonly fruitful. The pativci;, who are of a mild
charafter, are called TagaU, like all thofe of the Philippines, and ferm
of Malay origin f . They are tall and well made, wearing only a kind
of fhirts with loofc drawers ; but the drefa of the women w chiefly «
|arge mantle, and their black and beautiful hair fometimes reaches t\it
groundy the; complexion being u deep tawny. The IjioySc} m of bifRi-

hoo covered with i
ten feet. The chi(
in the ifle of Luzo
to the river of Ms
not unknown. Tli
and coQoa trees are
is well built and fc
the number of Chr
this city and Aca
Mexico, wascondu(
140 degrees, or abc
cumference of the g
of great fize, but 1
Manilla was taken
numerous till the b
committed a terrible
faid that they were
the governor: fince
tad produce.

Next in fize is Min<
fettlement being at J
mountainous ; but th
the pureft rivulets. '
a'rcumference. Hon
ing degree. In the f
ferres as a fea mark.

The other chief P

•r ifle of Negroes, 2

of Zebu is the fmall

Magalhaens was flain

hundreds. In genera

w)lcanic appearances j

fprings. Thefe ifles

various kinds ; and ai

gotten, which firft apj

»tends its benefits thr

oceans,

Celebez is an iflant
Britifli miles, but divi
the breadth is commo
lofty and mountainous,
veral adive volcanoes.
•dutiful fcenery, this
•bound, rifing in the
wki, amidft a fyl^an
'uguefe obtained a fetti

•SonofrM, H. ii«. ^oi

* Sec lUu ihk Vejfsfcs of Sunnc|»t lod Forefl,

t Sooi^itt, it. i9*>

bu^

t Peaasat, W, fl«.

ASIATIC ISLES.

yoj

^00 covered witli palm leaves, raifed on pillars to the height of eight or
ten feet. The chief food is rice, and falted fifli. There are many lakes
in the ifle of Luzon, the moft confiderable being that virhich gives fource
to the river of Manilla. Several volcanoes occur, and earthquakes are
not unknown. The cotton is of peculiar beauty, and the fugar caine
and coQoa trees are obje6ts of particular culture. The city of Manilla
is well built and fortiHed, but a third part is occupied by convents :
the number of Chrillian inhabitants is computed at 1 2,000. Between
this city and Acapulco, nearly in the fame parallel on the W. of
Mexico, was conduced a celebrated commerce through a fpace of about
140 degrees, or about 8,400 g. miles, more than one third of the cir-
cumference of the globe. The Manilla (hips, or galleons, were formerly
of great iize, but latterly fmaller velFels have been ufed. The city of
Manilla was taken by the Englifli in 1762. The Chinefe were here
numerous till the beginning of the 1 7th century, when the Spaniards
committed a terrible maflacre of that induftrious people. In 17619 it is
faid that they were again expelled from all thefe ifles, by the bigotry of
the governor : fince which time there has been a great decline in induiVry
and produce.

Next in fize is Mindanao, a beautiful and fertile idand, the chief Spanifh
fettlement being at Sambuang in the S. W *. This idand is in general
mountainous ; but the vales conflil of a rich black mould, watered with
the pureft rivulets. The Lano is a large inland lake, about 60 miles in
circumference. Horfes and buffaloes have here multiplied to a furpriz>
ing degree. In the fouth there is a volcano of conftant eruption, which
ferves as a fea mark.

The other chief Philippines are Pulawain, Mindoro, Pani, Buglas
or ifle of Negroes, Zebu, I^eyt or Leita, and Samar. On the £.
of Zebu is the fmall ifle of Ma£lan, where the celebrated navigator
Magalhaens was flain. The other little iflands might be counts by
hundreds. In general, this grand and extenfive group prefents many
Tokanic appearances; fuch as lava, volcanic glals, (ulphur, and hot
fprings. Thefe ifles prefent wild boars, deer, and ufeful animals of
Yarious kinds ; and among vegetables the bread fruit muft not be for-
gotten, which firft appears on the eaitcrn coaih of Sumatra, and thence
extends its benefits tnrough innumerable iilunds in the Indian and Pa(;ific

oceani.

* h ..

IV. THE CELCBFZIAM ISLES.

Celgbez is an ifland of great and irregular length, more than 600
Britilli miles, but divided into various portions by great bays, fo that
the breadth is commonly not above 60 Britifli miles. This iiland is
lofty and mountainous, efprcially towards the centre, and there are fe-
veral aAive volcanoes. Tnough the Afiatic ifles abound in fublime and
beautiful fcenery, this is depi6ked as exceeding them allf. Rivera
abound, rifing in the high mountains, and precipitating down vail
rocki, amidft a fylvan fcene of lofty and fingular trees. The Por-
tuguefe obtained a fettlement near Macaflar in th^S.W., being favoured

* Sonnrrat, li. 110. For nn tmplo ukI rurious scrount of thb HIand the retiter but
ra>>ult Fonib'i Voyi^ to New tiuinrn. Thn Han&wu, or black natiTaa, tie feUwita

thr land.

t Peansat, Ir, ««, . ^u, ^ i •

Kk4 If

504

ASIATIC ISLES.

by the king of that reffion, but' were expelled b/the'Dutch in iSCa
who continue to control the ifland, the Chinefe alone being permitted
to ttade. The natives/ commonly,, called Macaflars ♦, often degrade
their courage in 'the quality of freebooters} attacking veflfels with fur.
prifing defperation« and often with lanceSf or arrows poifoned with the
juice of the notorious tree called Upas. Their houl'es are raifcd'on
pillars, as ufual, on account of the rainy feafon, or W. monfoon, from
November till March. The Colebezian group might aptly be termed
the liles of Poifon, being full of poifonous trees and plants ; thoui^h
the noted upas be exaggerated and afcribed to Java» where it feems lefs
known. Nature has thus contraiied the falutary produ£iions of the fpice
idands with the mofl: pernicious proofs of her power. This large iflaiid
h&ving been, like Borneo, little explored, there is a great deficiency
in its natural biftory. The inhabitants are faid to cultivate great quan.
tities of rice.

Around Celebez are many fmall ifles, as Sanguy in the N., the Shullas
and Peling in the £., with Boutan and Sala in the S. and fome of fmaller
note in the W. Even the fmalleft ifle>} are moftly inhabited, and go.
verned by chiefs. In Sanguy and fome others there are fmall Dutch
garrifons, as advanced guards to prote6l tlie Spice Iflands. Boutan is
probably (till ruled by a Mahometan fultan. .^,^ yi^i-sj-rfi,-

MX ".

,):•} V. THE SPICE ISLANDS, INCLUDING THE MOLUCCAS. ,;.,,. .

The Moluccas, originally and ftriftly fo termed, are only five fmall
idands on the W. of Gilolo, namely, Ternat, Tiuore, Motir,
Makian, and Bakian or Batchian f j but as the kings of the Mo.
luccas have poffefled territory in Gilolo and otlier adjacent ifles, and as
the term Moluccas is confidered as fynonymous with that of Spice
I/la.iJsf the appellation has been extended. The Moluccas of D'Anville
include all the iflands in the oriental archi];)clago, except thofe of Sunda
and the Philippines : but this extcnfion is objedlionable, as leading to
vaffue ideas and eonfufed defcription ; and it feems preferable to include
under the name of Spice Iflands thofe from Mortay in the N. to Bands
in the S., and from Myfol in the E. to Bouro and Oubi in the W,
Thus the chief Spice Iflands will be Gilolo, Ceram, and BouRO, with
Mortay, Oubi, My^oL, Bouro, that of Amboyna, and the group
of Banda, with fuch fmall ifles as approximate nearer to thefc thaii
to the Celebesian group, or Sumatran chain. In this defcription are
fpecially included the five celebrated ifles, originally and peculiarly
termed the Moluccas.

Gilolo is of confiderable extent ; but in irregularity of form fimilar
to Celebez. The length is about 230 Britifli miles ; the breadth of
each limb feldom above 40. The fliores are low : the interior rifes to
high peaks. Gilolo is faid to have been once governed by one fove.
reign, a fheref from Mecca ; but the fultans of Ternat and Tidore
fecm now to fliare this lurgc ifle betwixt them t ; a circumftance which
adds to the propriety of mcluding Gilolo in tne fame defcription with
the Moluccas. One «f the chief^towns is Tatany, fituated on a point
or fmall promontory of the eaftcrn limb| faced with precipices, fo as tu

* Tlie mod powerrul people arc the Bcnidnx, on the bay of Boni, called Bugsojfes bjf
Englifh Teamen, and by otlier nations £oN^)(«/e. Stavorlnus, ii. 181.
•f FigafetU, 167, t Pcnuaiil, iv, 193. n^^m-*

-' V be

ASIATIC ISLES.

^^^

W only acceflible by ladders. This ifle abounds with "oxen, buffaloes,
goats, deer, and v lid hogs ; but the (heep are few. The bread fruit
\i frequent in Giblo, with the fago tree. The natives are induftrious,
particularly in weaving, but their exertions are fupprefled by Batavian
jealoufy. ',

Ceram is another ifland of confidet^ble fizc, being about 190 Britifli
miles in length by 40 in breadth ; low towards the more, but with in-
land mountains. Mr. Forreft fpecially mentions that Ceram produces
clove, trees ; and there are large forefts of the fago tree, which form a
co^iiderable article of export, yet this large ifland has been little ex-
plored, and is almoft unknown.

As in geographical defcription the fize of an ifland is a leading fea-
ture, the next mention mull be- Bouho, about 90 miles in length, by
50 in breadth. This ifle was nominally fubjeA to the king of Temat ;
but in 1660 the Dutcli built a fort, and, though they burned the ex-
terior woods, feem to have improved the induftry of tne inhabitants *.
The civet weafel is found here, and the curious hog called babirouflh.
The ifle of Bouro rifes fuddonly from a deep fea, being encompnffed as
with a wall. The interior mountains are To lofty that they may fome-
times be defcried at the diftance of twenty-eight leagues. * Green
ebony* and a kind of iron wood, are mentioned among the trees ; and it
is probable that the clove, and perhaps the nutmeg, defy, in the moun-
tain recefles, the wild avarice of man.

Of the other large iflands, Bakian or Batchian will be defcribed
with the Moluccas Itriftly fo called. Of Moiitay, Mysol, (Mixoal
or Michoal,) and Oubi, little is known. Mortay is a beautiful ifle,
but thinly inhabited, though full of fago trees, which are cut by
the people of Gilolo ; and is fubjefl to the king of Temat. Mysol,
the molt eailom of this group, is of a triangular fliape, with a bold
ihore. The villages are built ia the water upon pofts; and there
are pi6turefque forefts vifited by the birds of paradife, which feeni
to migrate from Papua, and are caught in confiderable numbers. Thefe
romantic and beautiful birds ftridlly belong to Papua, or N(bw Gui-
nea, but their flight extends over moft of the Spice Iflands, where
they always defcend as from heaven, and, as the natives believe, float
in aromatic air. Ouui abounds in cloves, and the Dutch have a fmall
fort on the weft fide : but the inhabitants are chiefly fugitive flaves from
Temat.

But the moft celebrated and important iflands of this group ftill re-
main to be defcribed. The Moluccas, ftri£^ly fo called, in the
weftern extremity ; and Amboyna and Banda in the fouth. The
Little, or proper Moluccas, as already mentioned, are Teunat, Ti-
DORE, Motir, Marian, and Batchian. In ic 10 they were vifited
bjr Portuguefe navigators from the weft ; and the fame of the difcovery
was one of the chief inducements to the firft circumnavigation of the
Spaniards, con4uiSled hy Magalhaens, a Portuguefe commodore. Thefe,
two great maritime nations afterwards contefted this precious property ;
hnt tnc Moluccas were finally refigned to the Portuguefe, who were
fupplanted by the Dutch about the year 1607. The EngUfli alfo
claiming this opulent commerce, a treaty wasfigned in 1619, declaring
the Moluccas, Ambovna, and Banda, common to both: the Engliih
itf have oiiQ, third vf the produce, and the Dutch two thirds { each con-

,,. , • I\'UDant, iv. 174.

tributing

5o6 . * ASIATIC ISLES.

tributing a Hmilar proportion to defend the iflands from invaders *, Bu»
in the (hort courfe of three yews the Dutch, actuated by their infatiable
jivarice, determined* by the mbft diabolical means, to free themfelvcs
from all competitors. They forged a plot of the £ngli(h againft their
lives and liberties, and put them to death by the moft exquiiue tortures
that hell itfelf could invent.

The clove is faid to have abounded particularly in Makian, but the
growth was afterwards confined by the Dutch to Amboyna. The niit.
meg fpecially flouriihed in the group of Banjda ; and the Romani ap.

£ear to have known the clove, but not the nutmeg, wliich feems to
aw been brought to Europe by the Mahometans. The largclt of
the Little Moluccas is Batciiian, being governed by a fultan, wlio
is likewife fovereign of Oubi and Ceram, with Goram, a little ifle
S. E« of Ceram, reputed the mod eallern boundary of tlic Mahometan
faith. This monarch has a pen Hon from the Dutch, either for the
dcftru£lion ox fupply of nutmegs, but is otherwiic little fubfervienf.
Batchian rifes into woody hills ; and on the (hores^ as in moil iiJes
of this archipelago, there arc prodigious rocks of coral, of infinite
variety and beauty. Makian is a fmall ifle at a greater interval, to
the N. of Batchian, than appears between the other Moluccas, and
rifes like a high conie mountam from the fea. This was regarded as
the chief Dutch fetjleroent before Amboyna became the metropolis of
the Moluccas. Next is Monn, formerly, as an old Enghih writer
fays, the feat of Venus and voluptuoufnefs. The molt diftinguiflied of
the proper Moluccas are Tidore aud Teunat. While Portugal was
united to Spain the Dutch were defeated near Tidore in 1610 by the
Spanifh admiral Sylva ; but by the afliftance of the king of Ternat
the Batavians feizedthe fort. Iq Tidore there are twenty-five mofques ;
and the fultan, as already mentioned, pofleifes alio the fouth of Gilolo,
and claim's tribute from Myfol.

Ternat is the njoft northern and moft important of the Moluccas,
though it fcarcely exceed twenty-four miles in circumference. The
fultan aon^rols Makian and Motir, with the north of Gilolo, Morta),
and even fome Celebezian ifles, and part of Papaa, whence he reccivcB a
tribute of gold, amber, and birds of pamdife. In i6;i8 the Batavians
formed an alliance with the king of Ternat and the leifer princes, which
has been repeatedly renewed } l»i|t garrifons are cltabliihed to enforce the
obfervance, and tue fultans of Terna^ and I'idore are watched with
great attention. Ternat confiils chiefly of high land, abounding with
ttrcams, ^hich burft from the cloudy peaks : and there is a vplcano,
which difplayed great force in 169^. The chief quadrupeds, are goat?,
deer, and hogs, and the birds are of diilinguifh<-'d beauty, particularly
the kingfiiher, clothed in fcarlet and mazareen blue, called by the
natives tne Goddefs. In Ternat the )}oa-ferpent is fometimrs found, of
the length of thirty feet ; and l!>y its pqwer of fudliqn and conilrid^ion
is reported fpmetimes to fwallow even Imall deer.

Equally diilinguifhed are the moft fou|hern fpice iflands of Amboyna
and Banda, cloves being now reftri^ed, fo far as Dutch avarice could
effedl, to Amboyna, and nutmegs \q Banda, The governor of Am-
boyna makes an annual progrefs throughput the Spice Iflands, to fee
that treaties are obfcrved, a^d fupprffi any new object of jcaloufy.
Amboyna was difcovered by the Portugqefe about 15 15, but was not
feizcd till 1564 ; and was conquered by the Putph ^|)QUt 1607. Thi)

* Rjrmer'i Fqsdera, ^vii, 170. t t^

'^iC' .

celebrate^

celebrated ifle is a^
wed: fide there is a
fuias. On the eai
the Portu'guefe erei
boyiia, the capital
neatly built ; the h
dom exceed one i
iBotintainfi and vei
riched by cultivati
forty or fifty feet,
deep fheltered vales 1
the chief crop bein^
reddifh clay, but in
recently feized by tl
contain 4^,252 foul
homet^ns, e,\cept a
pol/lhed, this being
qiience. The n^tiv
Malays | and when ii
drefii is a loofe fliirt,
rajas. Cattle, grair
coura^ed the gr^wtl
febeliious; but the
delicious fruity is tlf
ago nutmegs were p
fiiriiifhing 9 fuflicient
and among the bifds
brought from' Cerani.
Banda, or Lant
pr feven others ; it d
and the greateft bread
nutmeg tree is the
Hourilhes not only in
Goiiong, vtrhichistbe
fea. When the Engl
was about 165,000 p<
The nutmeg tree gro
thofeoftl|eUurel,and
The nutmeg, when ri
tiful .^ppear^qce ; it
a fimiJ^r colour, with
Ihape it is fpmewhat 1
mark opens, and difco
covering in p^t the th

• An acconjnt of tlie Si
"miiti. AHwic Kt^jfter,

t Tlipia^nch of^nAo/B
March 1796, |,jrtJ)pEmjli

+ ilie hurricane and eart
fotUtthe Dutch haw becotn
fi'igliA E.ft India Cbmpaiij
mace, LeCdes private iiade.

$ ACntic Rcglflcr^ 1100,

ASIATIC ISLES.

foj

celebrated ifle is about 60 B. miles in length from N. to S., and on the
weft fide there is a large bay, which divides it into two limbs or penin*
(ulas. On- the eaftem fide is another bay, with a bad harbour, where
the Porlu'guefe erefted their chief forirefs ViAoria. The town of Am-
^oyiisi the capital of the ifle, Hands near the S.W. extremity a.nd is
neatly built ; the houfef, on account of the frequent earth(]|iiakes» fel-
idom exceed one floor. I'hc face of this ifland is heautitul) woody
(Hoiintains and verdant vales being interfperfed with hamlets, and en-
riched by cultivation *. The clove tree grows to the heig^ht of about
forty or Bfty feet, with fpreading branches and long pointed leaves. In
deep (heltered vales fume trees wiU produce thirty poimds weight annually,
the chief crop being from November to February. The foil is modly a
reddifh clay, but in the vales blackifli and fandy. When Amboyna was
rerently feized by the Engliih f , it was fouqdy with its dependencies, to
contain 4),252 fouls, of which 17,813 were Proteftants, the reil Ma*
homet^ns, e,\cept a few Qhinefe and favages. The Dutch are tolerably
poljihed, this being the next fettlement to Batavia in wealth and coiife-
qtience. The natives cannot be praifed, they differ little from other
Malays j and when intoxicated vrith opium will commit any crime. The
drefii is a loofe fliirt, or frock, of cotton cloth ; and the chiefs arc called
rajas. Cattle, grain, &c. are imported from Java. The Dutch dif.
couraged the growth of indigo, led the natives (hould become rich and
{rebellious ; but the fugar and coffee are excellent, and among many
delicious fruitj} is ^l^e maugofleen of Hindoilan. About eleven yean
ugu nutmegs were permitted to be cultivated in Amboyna, Banda not
fiiniiihing 9 fufficient fiipply. The chief animals arc deer and wild hogs,
and among the bifds is the caffowaryt T'*^ ^^^^ curious woods ar^
brought from Ceram.

Banda, or Lantok, is the chief ifle of a group which comprifes^x
pr feven others ; it does not exceed eight B. miles in length, W. to £.,
and the greatefl breadth at its eaftern extremity may be five miles. The
nutmeg tree is the principal objeA of cultivation in thefe ifles ; and
jlourilhes not only in the rich black mould, but even amidll the lavaa of
Goiiung, which is the higheft ifle,- the fummit being 1940 feet above the
fea. When the EngliA feized thefe ifles in 1 796, the annual produce
was about \6$tOQO pounds of nutmegs and 46,000 pounds of mace|.
The nutmeg tree grows to the fize of a pear tree, the leaves refembling
tfaofe of thel^ureli and bears fruit from the age of ten to oqe hundred years^
The nutmeg, when ripe on the tree, has both a very curious and beau<
tiful .4ppeari)nee : it is about the fizp of an apricot) and nearly of
a fimil^r colour, with the fame kind of hollqw mark all round it ; in
Ihape it is fqmewhat like a pear : when perfei^ly ripe the rind over tin;
mark opens, and difcovers the mace, of a deep redi growing over at>d
covering in part t))e thin %U qf t^e nutmeg, which is black § .

* An accoi^nt of the Spice Tflai^dji, iincc they have been in th^ poflldion of Gnat
Driuin. Afwtic Kegjfter, isuo, p. ano. 'I here was a mod violent earthquake iu

t Tlkriftimia of i^iQbojnt %ni Vkndu if etc taken \yiihout refiftaqce in Vcbruary and
March, 1796, hy ttfp £ni;li<h adnciral Rainier.

X Tlic hurricane ^ml earthquake, 1/76, altnofl annilulalefl ti)e nutmeg trees in Bamla,
fo tliat the Dutch ha«t! l)ecome the dwiiex ut' their 01*11 avarice. From 1796 to 171>8 the
EnsliOiEall India Company import*^ 8)7,!) 12IK, cloves, 9-1, 7i}a!h. nutmegs, 46,7.)olb.
mare, bcQdes piivat* iiaile, anuanting to about a th'itJ part of the 4iove. iitavoriuus.

$ AGatic Reglftcr^ iioo, p. aif.

5o8

ASIATIC ISLES.

The ground being chiefly occiipicd with thefe prfecious plantations,
cattle, grain, &c. are imported from Batavia ; and the Chiiiefe merchants
carry European articlea even to Papua or New Guinea. The inhabitants
of the Banda ifles were found to be 5763. The EngH(h-were expelled
from Lantor, and Rohn, or Pulo Rohn, prior to the mafiacre of Ain-
boyna; but ieized the whole Spice lilands in 1796, and rellored them to
their Batavian mailers by the treaty with France, 1801.

AUSTRALASIA.

-K';:

AUSTRALASIA, as already explained, contains the following
countries,

1. The central and chief land of New Holland, with any ifles whicli,
may be difcovered in the adjacent Indian ocean, twenty decrees to the W.,
and between twenty and thirty degrees to the E.> including particularly
all the large iflands that follow :

2. Papua, or New Guinea.

,3. New Britain, and New Ireland, with the Solomon Ifles.

4. New Caledonia, and the New Hebudes. ,»< a^ .1. ,< ;

^. New Zealand. • ' '

. 6. The large ifland called Van Diemen's J^and, recently difcovered to
"he feparated from New Holland by a ilrait, or rather cliannel, called
]3af9'6 ilrait.

.«.,-

- ,':■ ,;.•;■";;.;■, ai-/;iv?;. 1. NEW HOLLAND.

Some fuppofe that this extenfivc region, when more thorouglily invef.
tigated, will be found to confiil of two, three or more vail iflands, intcr-
fedled by narrow feas. However this be, the moft recent and authentic
charts ftill indicate New Holland as a country fully entitled to the appel-
btion of a continent. The length from E. to W. is about 43 degrees of
longitude, in the medial latitude of 2^% that is about 2,340 g. miles, or
a,730 Britifti. The breadth from N. to S. extends from 1 1° to 39°, being
28 degrees, j,68og. miles, or 1,960 Britifh^ Europe, the fmalleftof
the ancient continents, is fuppofed to be about 3,300 B. miles in itsutmoll
length, and its greateft breadth 2,350, fo that Mr. Pennant rather exag*

f crates when he afllmilates the fize of Europe and New Holland, the latter
eing a quarter lefs than the former. But the proximity of fo manv large
iflands recompenfcs this defe£l ; and the whole of Auftralafia will pro-
bably be found greatly to exceed the European continent. It muft at
the fame time be remembered that New Holland may be difcovered to
confift of two or more iflands, fo that Auftralafia is not admitted as a new
continent, but merely as a new diviflon of the globe ; in which view this
and Polynefia may be termed maritime divifions, while the four ancient
quarters are ftriftly terrene.

Although the northern parts of Papua were probably not unknown to
the Chineie, y«t there is no ihadow of evidence that they had difcovered
New Holland ; there is therefore room to believe that the firft civilized
people to whom it was difclofed were the Spaniards or Portuguefe, the

^ earlieft

AUSTRALASIA.

500

earlieft European navigators in this portion of the globe. An ancient
map, now lodged in the Briti(h mufeum, has been thought to evince that
a confiderable portion of the coa|l now called New South Wales was
known to the Spaniards or Portuguefe ; but the precife epoch of the map
or difcovery feems uncertain.

The Portuguefe beingfupplanted by the D utch, the latter are regarded
by the learned prefident Des Broffes as the chief difcoverers of A ultralafia,
between the years i6i6 and 1644*. The fir ft difcovery he dates in the
month of October 1616, when the weftern extremity was explored by
Hartog. The northern part, called Diemen't Land, was difclcfed by an-
other Dutch navigator, named Zeachen, who beftowcd the appellation in
honour of Anthony Van Diemen> governor general in the Eaft Indies.
In like manner Carper^laria was named from general Carpenter, being
difcovered in 1628.

In 1642 that celebrated navigator Tafniian, leaving Batavia with two
Jhips, performed almoft a circuit of Auftralafia, and dikovered the foutkern
land of Van Diemen, with New Zealand, and fome illes of lefs confequence.
It would be foreign to the pre'fent purpofe to detail the other difcoveries
which preceded the voyages of Cook in 1768, 1772, and 1776, which,
from the fuperior amplitude and accuracy of the details, may be faid to
amount to a new difcovery.

The eaftem coaft having been carefully examined by Cook, and juftly
appearing of great importance, was formally taken pofl'eilion of in the name
of the king of Great Britain, 1770. On the clofe of the American war,
it being diracult to fele£l a proper place of tranfportation for criminals fcn-
tcncedto that punifhment by the laws of their country, this new territory
was at length preferred in 1 786, and the firlt (hip failed from Spithead on
the 30th January 1787, and arrived on the 20th of the fame month in the
following yearf.. Botany bay being found to be a ftation of inferior
advantages to what were expe^ed, and no fpot appearing proper for the
colony, it was immediately refolved by governor Phillip to transfer it to
another excellent inlet, about twelve miles farther to the north, called
Port Jackfon, on the fouth fide of which, at a fpot called Sidney Cove,
this fettlement is now fixed. Port Jackfon is one of the nobleft harbours
in the world,, extenc^g about fourteen miles in length, with numt:rous
creeks or coves.

Difficulties with regard to fubfiftence and fome unexpected misfortunes
attended the new colony, the (heep being itolen, and the cattle wandered
into the woods. For a minute account of the progrefs of this interefting
colony till 1797, the reader may confult the work of Mr. Collins, who
held an eminent fituatioh in the eltablifhment. A.fpace of about fifty miles
around the colony had then been explored, and two rivers called Nepcan
and Hawkfbury, and fome mountains, had been difcovered. The cattle
were found grazine^in a remote meadow, in 1795, after they had been
loft for feveii yeac^ and had increafed to a furpriling degree. The moft
recent accountrfeem to authenticate the flouriihing Hate of the colony.
Themode of cultivation has been improved, coal and rock fait difcovered ;
and there is room to expe£i that this wide territory will not be found
deficient in the ufual riches of nature.

Inhabitants.] Thefe hiftorical outlines being prcmifed, it will.be
proper to offer a brief and indeed neceifarily defedive defcription of this
new continent, as it is conceived to be in its original flats. From the

• [)e Broffci, i. 496.

t Collins, i. p. 1.

accounts

|to

AUSTRALASIA-

accounts df various navigatorst there is room to infer that tliis extenfivfl
tradl is peopled by three or four races of men, thofe obferved in the S.W.
being defcnbed as different from thofe in the N. *, and both from thofe
in the £., with whom alone we are intimately acquainted. Thefe aref
perhaps in the moft early ftage of fociety which has yet been difcovered
ih any part of the globe. They are merely dividec^ into families, the feniof
being ttyled Be-ana, or Father. Each family or tribe has a particular
plac«i of relidence» and is diftinguilhed by adding gal to the name of the
place ; thus the fouthern fhore of Botany Bay is called Owea, and the
tribe there Gwea-gal. Another tribe, numerous and mufcular, has the
iingular prerogative of exading a tooth from young men of other families,
the fole token of government or fubordination. No religion whatever is
known, though they have a faint idea of a future cxiltence, and think
their people return to the clouds, whence they originally fell. They are
of a low llature, and ill made ; the arms, legs, and thighs being remark-
ably thin, perhaps owing to their poor living on Hfh, the only food
of thofe on the coaft, while a few in the woods fublid on fuch animals as
they can catch, and climb trees for honey, flying fquirrels, and opofTumsf .
The features of the women are not unpleafant, though approacliing to
the negro. The black bufhy beards of the men, and the bone or reed
which they thruft through the cartilage of the nofe, gives ihem a difgull-
ing appearance ; which is not improved by the pradice of rubbing fifh oil
into their Ikins, as a proteftion from the air and mufl<ito8, lb that in hut
weather the llench is intolerable. They colour their faces with white or
red clay. Tlie women arc marked by the lofs of the two firft joints of
the little linger of tlte left hand, as they were fuppofed to be in the way
when they coiled their filhing lines. It is however not improbable tkat tlii»
practice, and the extraction of a tooth from the boys, may be mereiniti.
ations, rude Icflbns that they may learn to bear pain with apathy. The
children are feldum disfigured except by accidents from fire ; and their
fight is furprilingly acute. Some are nearly as black as African negroes,
while others exhibit a copper or Malay colour ; but the hair is long, noi
woolly like the African. Their nofes are flat, noUrils wide, funk eyes,
thick brows and lips, with a mouth of prodigious width, but the teeth
white and even. *' Many had tery prominent jaws ; and there was nae
man who, but for the gift of fpeecli, might very well have pafled for an
orang-outang. He was remarkably hairy ; his arms appeared of an
uncommon length ; in his gait he was not pcrfedlly upright ; and in his
whole manner leemed to have more of the brute, and lels of the human
fpecies about him, than any of his countrymen t."

The huts are moll rudely conilrudted, of the bark of trees, in the form
of ail oven, the lire being at the entrance. Here they Heep promifcuouOy,
if not intert apted by their frequent enmities and altaflinations. Fiih are
killed with a kind of prong, or taken by the women with lines of bark
and hooks of the mother of pearl oyiter, rubbed on a ftone till the proper
form be obtained. The iiOi are ofteo broiled on a lire laid on fand in the
Bealts are taken in a kind of toils. Caterpillars and worms art-

canoe.

likewife articles of food,
timber frame.

The canoes are made of bark extended on a

* Yet ihe d«fcri|>tk>n of our great niv'igtinr Uampier, who vifiiedihi* prt m lASS,

frcfenti a great fimilaritjr wttb tlial «( tb« iwtivet in our coloiijr iicar Putt iackiW-
Vol. i. p. "tea.)
t Cuiliut, i. »fto. { Collira, i. 5»4. , «

TW«

AUSTRALASIA.

5!!

Thefe poor favaffes ere the abjed flaves of fuperftition, believing in
tnagic and witchcratt and ghoft:i ; they have alfo fpells againil thunder and
Itirhtningt and pretend to foretell events by the meteors called falling ftars.
They have not only perfonal property in tlieir weapons and fiihing tackle,
but fome are fuppofed hereditary proprietors of certain fpots, perhaps
alfigned as rewards for public fervices, or adls of great bravery. They
have names for the fun and inooiit fume few ilars, tTie Magellanic clouds,
and the milky way. Young people are buried, but" thofe who have
paiTed the middle age are burnt ; a rude tumulus being erected by way
uf tomb.

Lanouage.3 Of the language Mr. ColKns has given an ample voca-
bulary, and it is reported to be grateful to the ear, exprefllve and fono-
rous, having no analogy with any other known language ; but the dialers
ofthe various regions feem entirely different. Whether thefe people be
remains of aboriginal tribes from the moil fouthern extremities of Alia, or
have pafTed from Madagafcar and the eaftern (hores of Africa, are matters
tf future diicovery and invelligation.

Climate and seasons.] From its fituation on the fouthern fide of
the equator, the feafons are like thofe of the fouthern part of Africa and
America, the revcrfe of thofe in Europe ; the fummer correfponding with
our winter, and the fpring with autumn. Mr. Collins found the weather
in December very hot, but the chmate was allowed to be fine and falu*
brious, the rains were heavy, appearing to fail chiefly about the full and
change uf the moon ; and at intervals there were ftorms of thunder and
lightning. Iti Norfolk ifland there is what may be called a rainy feafon*
from February to Auguft. As the fouth is in this hemifphere the region
of cold, there mull be great difference in the temperature of this wide
continent ; which may alfo be affeAed as ufual by chains of mountains,
and other circumftances yet undifcovered.

Fac£ok the ( ountky.^ It would be idle to attempt any delineation
of the general afpe£l of this country. The fmall portion known feems
billy, but not mountainous, partly cov«red with tall trees clear from un-
derwood ; which lail liuwever covers cxtenfive trails towards the fhores,
in which large fwamps alfo occur *. The foil around Botany Bay is black
and fat, and fertile of plantx, whence the name arofe ; but thefe favour-
able appearances were cuunteraAed by great di(advantaxes. Confiderable
quantities of mai/e and wheat have fince been raifedt particularly on
Norfolk idand : and it is to be hoped that when experience has indicated
the proper means, this may be rendered a produAive country.

RiVEUM, lakes, and muuntains.] Concerning the rivers, lakes, and
mountains of New Holland there is little information. A chain of moun-
tains is faid to run N. a*d S. between fifty and fixty miles inland, but not
tiUlj acceifiblc, on account of numerous deep ravines. Bafaltic columns
often appear; and iy Howe illand they rile to fuch a height as to be vifible
at the dilUncc of twelve leagues.

ZouLoov.] This wide coiuitry prefents a peculiarity in the animals,
being moiily of tlie opoffiuu kinu, and leaping habitually upon the hind
legs: the chief in fize is the Kangooroo. The native dogs are of the
ctiacal kind, and never bark ; they arc of two colours, black or white with
tinges of red, and fome ar^* very haiidfome f . Among the few other
quadrupeds )et dcfcribed are wea/cls and ant-eaters, with tliat fingular

* PfiiiiiDi'K Ouilinri, iv. io8i but (hit excellent natvi^siiA fcenni prejudiced agtttnft the

'oumry itiid ilip < olony, ^

t Ullini) i, jor,

animal-

4 ■ '! \a( ,'

^.u^''^ -

Sii

AUSTRALASIA.

animal the duck-billed platypus, in which nature feems to delight in tranf-
greffing her ufual law, the jaws of a quadruped being elongated into the
complete bill of a bird. Among the birds are the brown eagle, feveral
falcons, and many elegant parrots ; there are alfo builards and partridaes
with fome pigeons. A new kind of caffowary muft not be omitted, laid
to be fcven feet in length * : it is not uncommon, and the flefh taftes like
beef. Among the aquatic birds are the heron, and gigantic pelicans.
There are alfo peculiar ducks and geefe ; and the black fwan is a rare
pro^ny of the new continent. *« It is in fize fupcrior to the white. The
bill IS of a rich fcarlet ; near the tip is a fmall yellow fpot. The whole
plumage of the moft, intenfe black, except the primaries and fecondaries
which are white, the eyes black> the feet diiflcy : it is found in Hawkfbury
river, and other frefh waters near Broken Bay, and has all the graceful
anions of the white kind f ."

The tortoifes, called green turtle, abound in the' ifles of Norfolk and
Howe ; and like wife appear on the coaft of New Holland. There are
feveral lizards and ferpents. Of the fi(h may be named dolphins, porpoifes,
and a rmgular>amphibious kind which leaps Uke a frog, by the help of
itrong breait fins ; fo that natil^e has not only here blended the bird with
the quadruped, but brought ii(h upon land. The blue ^rab, of an ultra*
marine colonr, is of exquifite beauty.

MiNEitALOGY.] As the interior mountains of this region have not been
explored, Uttlecan be faid concerning the mineralogy. In 1797 a (hip
from Bengal being wrecked on the fouthern (hore. of leventeen men only
three reached the lettlement, after a journey of eighty days j on their way
they difcovered immenfe ftrata of coal) which may prove far more va<
luablc than mines of gold :^. ' ' '

II. PAPVA, OR NEW GUINEA.

Ti'iis country is one of the moft interefting in Auflralafia, as partaking
of the opulcnco of the Moluccas, and their fingular varieties of plants

tcr^. .Other Spanilh navigators enlarged this difcovery ; and the llrait
between this country and 'New Holland was explored by Cook, while tlie
Karncd prefident Des Broifes, and even Bougainville, the French cir-
cumnavigator, had doubted whether fuch a pafiage exilled ||., This ex.
tenfive country is Hill far from being completely inveiligated, but is con-
ceived to be a vail ifland, extending from u cape, nbfurdly ilyjed of Good
Hope, but more properly White Point, in the N.W., probably to Cape
Kodney'inthe S.E., a length of more than 1200 miles, by a medial
breadth of perhupa 300, and thus far fuperior in fize tu Borneo, former-
ly reputed the largetl of iflands.
OiduiNAL ropt'i-ATioN.] On this cxtenfive territory, in a fituation

t lb. no.

; Collins, I. 61 7.

• Pennant, iv. 137.

4 Dp |i<iilti>, i. )i:K

11 liurodiidiioii tu < od'i Uft voyage (Sy Hinu)|> DuuglM, p. Kvi.) Tlie rtudcr wko
withc!! fur iiioir piiMtculnr tletkili roiirfriiiti|j tlic | ro^jrefi ot «iil« uf criri in llic IWilici niif
\)t NlVrrcU t(» the wnrL ui Dcs Brutlei, ultcn «{uut('il ; and tu Mr. Dalryinple's eollfAion ol
«oyiiu«. ill tlic Parifii, 1770, 4to, 'I he It Arncd Prenrh |iiiUlii>tion hiu Uanflatid by John
C'allutt'lfi, F(tiii. );(><>. u vuU. tt\v. ' liu knhi «lii'pufed to pa)'i iiu au uri^iiitl iii.dcrtiM

AUSTRALASIA.

h highly favoured by nature, and probably enriched with the choiceft
productions, there is no European fettlement. The inhabitants of the
northern part are called Papous, whence the name of the country. Tlje
traditions bear that they are brethren of the Moluccans, and the lan-
guage feems to have ho affinity with that of New Soutli Wales, but is
probably conne£^ed with that of Borneo, &c. on the weft, and that of
Kew Britain and the ifles on the other fide, being part of the wide
Malay diifufion. The inhabitants are black, and even faid to have the ■
woolly hair of negroes ; but this laft circumftance will probably be difco-'
rered, as in New Holland, to proceed from art, and in fome parts it
would feem that the inhabitants have the true Malay complexion and fea-
tures. In the interior is a race called Haraforas, who live in trees^
which they afcend by a notched pole, drawing it after them to prevent
furprife. The appearance of the Papuans and their habitations is gro-
tefque, the latter being built on ftages in the water ; in which they re-
femble the'Borneans, and other nations in the Afiatic ifles. The women
feem the moft induftrious in making mats, and pots of clay, which they
afterwards burn with dry grafs or brufli wood ; nay, they will even wield
the axe, while the men arc indolent, or preparing forthc chace of wild
bogs*.

«« The afpeA of thefe people is frightful and hideous ; the men are
{lout in body, their fkin of a ihining black, rough, and often disllgurcd
with marks like thofe occafioned by the leprofy ; their eyes a^e very
large, their nofes flat, month from ear to ear, iheir lips amazingly thick*
tfpecially the upper lip ; their hair woolly, cither a fhining black or fiery
red. It is drefled in a vail buHi, io as to refemble a mop ; they fome-
times ornament their hair with feathers of the birds of paradii'e ; others
idd to their deformity by boring their nofes, and palfing through them
ririL'S, pieces of bone, or ilicks ; and many, by way of ornament,
liaiig round their necks the tuflcs of boars. The heads of the women
are of lefs fize than thofe of the men, and in their left ear they wear fmall
brafs rings.''

The religious tenets of the Paputins have been little examined. They
make tombs of the rude coral rock, fometin'.es with Iculptures. The
thief commerce is with the Chinefc, from whom they purchafe their in-
Itrumentsand utenfils. Their returns are ambergris, tortoiie-lhell, fmall
pearls, birds of paradife, and other birds, which the Papuans dry with
great ikill, Some Haves are alio exported, probably captives taken ia
inteftine wars.

The coafts of Papua arc generally lofty and inland, mountain rifes
above mountain, rickly clothed with woods. The (hores abound with
cocoa-tret s, and the whole country feems to have imprcffed every navi-
gator with delight, and well dcferves more cultivated md indullrious
inhabitants. But by a fingular fatality many extenfive and beautiful por-
Itionsofthe globe are thinly inhabited by a few lavages, wliile cold and
|b:irrin provinces are the troiided feats of civih/cd nations.

The natural hillory of tliis country is little known, but the 7.00-

'cy is linking and romantic. Papua is the chofcn relidence of the
jlplendidand lingular birds of paradife, of which ten or twelve forts are
jcnunurated by Mr. Pennant. They feem to be chiefly caught in the
laJjaccnt illes of Arroo, K'ing fuppofed to breed in Papua, and relide
I'licrf during the wet mnnftion ; while during the dry, or wellern, they
pure to Arroo, migrating in flocks of thirty or forty. During their

CP^

r':>

* Forrefl't Vojt^e to New Guinea. Ppiintot'* Outline*, iv. 2uS.

L 1 flis;bt

^4..» ^*'*-

-m

AUSTRALASIA.

flight tliey cry like darlings, but when furprifed with a (Irong gale tW
croak like ravens, and afcend to the fuperior regions of the air. They
alight on the higheft trees, feeming to feed on berries, and according to
fome, on nutmegs and butterflies ; and are either (hot with blunt
arrows, or caught with birdlime, or noofes. The bowels and breaft
bone being exCrafted> they are dried with fmoak and fulphur, fold for
nails or bits of iron, and exported to Banda. Papua alfo boails of ele>
gant parrots ; while the crowned, or gigantic pigeon almoft equals a
turkey in fize.

Captain Forreft, to whom we are indebted for an intercfting voyage in
thefe feas, only vifited the harbour of Dory in the northern part of Papua
fo that our knowledge of this large idand remains extremely iniper^£^.
He obferved at a confiderable diftance, the mountains of Arfac, of a
remarkable height. Near the harbour of Dory he found in fome little
ifles abundance of nutmeg trees, and there is room to infer that the land
of Papua is not deftitute of the fame productions, and may perhaps alfo
boad of cloves.

Some of the fmall adjacent iflands are better known than the main land
of Papua. At the N.W. extremity the chief ifles are Waijoo, and Sal.
watti ; befides feveral fmaller ones. ' ,

Farther to the S. are the Papuan iflands of Arroo and Timor Laiit.

"Waijoo, or Wadjoo, is an ifle of conflderable fize, and is faid to
contain 1 00,000 inhabitants. The land is high with lofty mountains, and
on the north fide are two excellent harbours Piapis and Offak *.

Salwatti is alfo a populous ifland, governed by a raja. The people of
thefe two large iflands refemble thofe of the main land of Papua, being
a Angular race of horrible appearance, and great ferocity. They live on
fifli, or turtle, and fago, that tree abounding in Papua, but the fubftance
is chiefly prepared by the people of Waijoo.

Timorlaut is another Papuan ifland of confiderable fize, butofwiiici;
there is no particular account. The Arroo iflands appear, in Arrow.
fmith'o chart, divided into five by intervening flraits, and, as already I
mentioned, are the remarkable feats of the birds of paradife. The chief
product is fago, and the people make expeditious to the main land,
where they feizc captives, and fell them at Banda. In political geo-
graphy the Arroo ifles have been conlidcred, fince 1623, as belong.
ing to the Dutch Fail India Company, and fubfervient to thofe otj
Banda f.

On tl:e N. of the main land of Papua are the ides of Myfory and Mi, I
with feveral others of fnuiller confo<juemv, nor indeed are the difcovcricsl
fufficiently complete to trace with prccilion the northern ftiorcs of Papua,]
or the ifles adjacent.

•'.f'^'iit'

<•!

lit. NtW BUITAIX, .\ND N'EU' IIIELAND, WITH TIIS
SOLOMON ISLKS.

Nf.w Britain was lirft explored and named by Dampicr, that naJ
vigator liaving palfed a llrait, to which his name is giv'.*n, betwffii
this country and Papu;i. In 1767 C.iptain Carteret pafled through
whailnel bolwoen Nevv Britain ai»d New Irti.ind, wliicli lall is a long Hid
of land llretcliing from N. W. to S. K.} and it is aili) probable that Ne\^
Britain may be tuund to be divided into two or more iflands. In thcf^

* S(« Furrsd'! Vuvage apd th^ C hurt,

1 1)« UruITt*, i. iii>

parti

AUSTRALASIA.

S'S

parts th(» nutmeff tfee is found abundant, being perhaps the moft remote
region towards the eafV, of that valuable plant. Dampier vifited a bay in
Kew Britain, called Port Montague, A.D. 1700, and found the land
mountainous and woody, but interfperfed with fertile vales and* beautiful
ftreams. The country feemcd very populous, the natives refembling^
thofe of Papua, and navigating their canoes with great flcill The chief
prodiift feemed to be cocoa nuts, but there were yams, and other roots,
particularly ginger ; and the fea and rivers fwarmed with fifli. In the
main land, and adjacent ifles, there are feveral volcanoes.

Inhabitants.] Captain Carteret found the natives of New Ireland
very hollile, having lances headed with flint. Their faces were ftreaked
\yith white, and their hair dabbed with powder of the fame colour.
They are black, and faid to be woolly headed, but without the thick lips
ur flat nofe of the negro. Some of the canoes of New Ireland were ninety
feet in length, formed out of a fingle tree. Bougainville alfo vifited
this country, and obferved here the pepper plant, while, among the nume-
rous birds, was the great crowned pigeon.

A more ample defcription is unneceffary, as thefe countries are far from
being completely difcovered. The fame obfervation mull be extended to
what are called the Solomon I (lands, which appear to have been difcovered
byMendana, who failed from Lima to the weft ward in 1575.

The Solomon Iflands, as laid down in Mr. Arrowfmith's chart of the
Pacific, may be confidered as a large group, extending from Lord An-
fon's ifle, or the Bouka of Bougainville, in the N. W. to the ifle called
Egmont by Carteret in the S.E. Some of the iflands towards the
centre, feem of confiderable fize, particularly in length. If thefe be the
Solomon Ifles of the Spaniards, it is aiferted that they are rich in gold.
Some of the natives were of a copper colour, others of a deep black, with
a wrapper of linen around the waift, while the neck was ornamented
with little beads of gold. The canoes were fmall, two being commonly
fallened together. In baflcets of palm leaves they carry a kind of
bread mi-.de of roots ♦. Thefe iflands are the land of the Arfacides of
Bougainville.

{UtI

IV. NEW CALEDONIA, AND THE NEW IIEBUDES.

These regions were difcovered by Captain Cook in 1774; but

Bougainville in 1768 had failed through the New Hobudcs ; and
I the moll northern is fuppofcd to be the land of the Holy Ghoft of
I Quiros.

New Caledonia is a large ifland, the fouthern part of which in par-
Iticular has been little explored. The natives are faid to be a muf-

cular race, of h deep brown complexion, rcfembling thofe of New
I Zealand.
The north wellern part of this large ifland was explored by Captain

Cook, who fays that this dillridl was called Balade. The name of Tee,.

*hich, in tlie Society Ifles, implies a guardian fpirit, fcems here to dentUi*
lachief. The women are more challe than in the other ifles of the Pa-
Icihc. The houfes are neat, fome having carved door pofts, and they rile
|"i the form of a bee hive, warm, but full of fmoke. The drefs is a flight
■wrapper ; and the hair, which is frizzled, not woolly, is ornamented with
|>wmb, while the beard is worn fliort. Thev fublill on roots and filh,

• Dc niKfTri, ;. 'jjr „
LI 2

tin

i« t'

Si6

AUSTRALASIA.

tUe country being very barren and rocky. In New Caledonia Dr. For.
fter found large rocks of quartz, with layers of gold-coloured mica
blended with ferpentine, hornblende, talc, and garnets. The bread fruit
and cocoa nut are fcarce ; but many new plants were obferved.

Among the New Hebudes Captain Cook has given the moft particu.
lar account of Mallicollo in the north, and Tanna in the fouth. Dr.
Forfter thought that the people of the former, who are ugly and diminui
tive, had a language lilferent from any they met with in the voyage. In
Tanna there is a remarkable volcano, with feme hot (brings. Here are
found plantains, fugar canes, yams, and leveral kinds of fruit trees. The
natives rather refemble thofe of New Holland than the Friendly Iflanden
and are particularly dexterous in the ufe of the fpear.

• V. NEW ZEALAND.

f' ' ■ '

This country was firft difcovercd by Tafman in 1642, but he did not
land. The natives however came on board, and feme intercourfi! took
place, during which feven of the Dutch, who had gone afliore unarmed,
were cruelly flaughtered. The people were defcribed to be of a
colour between brown and yellow, with long black hair refembling tke
Japanefe.

Our great navigator Cook explored thefe regions in 1770, and dif.
covered a ftrait which divides the country into two large iflands. The
fouthem was fuppofcd to be called by the natives Tavia Poenatnoo, and
the northern Eaheianowmawe, nameb which equal the Ruflian in length,
and which might well be contra6led. The firft is not lefs than 600 B.
miles in length, by about 150 in medial breadth ; and the fecond is little
inferior in uze.

One of thefe iOands appears to be far more fertile than the other ; but
both enjoy a temperate climate, finiilar to that of France. The natives
were again obferved tu be of a brown complexion, little deeper tlianthe
Spaniih, and fome are even fair. They equal the talleil Europeans in
itature; and their features are commonly regular and pleafing. It is fin.
gular to obferve fuch a diverfity between them and the natives of New
Holland, when theory would expert to find them the fame race, of men.
So far as prefent difcoveries extend, the natives of New Holland and
Papua feem to difplay an African origin ; while moft of the other iflandi
in the Pacific appear to have been peopled from Afia.

Manners AND CUSTOMS.] Tlie New Zcalanders inter their dead;
tlicy alfo believe tliat the third day after the interment the heart fe-
parates itfelf from the corpfe, and is carried to the clouds by an atten-
dant fpirit.

Suicide is very common among the New Zealanders, and this they
often commit by hanging themfclves on tlie flighteil occalions ; thus a
woman who has been beaten by her hufband will perhaps hang herfelf
immediately.

They have no other divifion of time than the revolution ot the mnon,
until the number amounts to one hundred, which they term ■' id .ce
E-tow," that is one Eto.w, or hundred moons ; and it is thus they count
their age, and calculate all other events.

Captam Cook'n Inft voyage contains conftderable information relative to
the fouthem ifle, from which a few brief hints may be added, as this re
gion only yields to Papua in Ih.c and confrqucnce. Storms were fomiJ
to be not only frequent but viulunt» and often changed in their di<

region

region by th

loaded with v;

but the priefti

The enorm

The bafes of i

jrellow marl ;

uriance, feemii

leaves in fpring

verdure was cc

attention, bein

ably tall. Th

without fuccefj

entire reverfion

and colour ; an

no quadruped v

which is a dome

The general (

llax ; and the e:

ing often befme;

greafe. The ha

the boats are we

with ftrong with

to fail without a

and they often fi

carry thirty me

They bake their 1

kind of fern, wh

ingenious mechaii

Their weapons ai

rude battle-axe ;

The yet warm bo

Toured with pecu

are preferved in tr

p»nied with their

One of the m<

by Mr. Savage, a

land. His defcri

harbour near the

while the Bay of I

of the country it v

cious. The chief

pigeon of large f\

contains about a

This is the la(

Auftralalia. The

Tafman, as already

"itheEalllndics;

*C«ok, i. i6j.

♦ Thf re is another Va

t-'tatenamMareinjurio

""/WlofNoiuencla

"eii » Ui.fl, or uw of

"le difcovercr,

AUSTRALASIA. 517

reftion by the lieight of the mountains, which at thefe time* are always,
loaded with vapours. The natives have no morai, or place of worfliip ;
but the priefts alone addrefs the gods for profperity.

The enormous lizards defcribed by the natives are probably alligators.
The bafes of the mountains fecm to be fand ftone ; and the foil refembles
yellow marl ; even the hills are covered with trees of the moll lofty lux-
uriance, feeming to retain their foliage till expelled by the fucceedinij
leaves in fpring ; for in June, which correfponds to our December, the
verdure was complete. The flax of New Zealand has excited particular
attention, being of a beautiful filky appearance, and the plant remark-
ably tall. The culture has been attempted both in France and England
without fuccefs ; perhaps from fome remarkable difference in foil, or the
entire reverfion of feafons. The birds feem to be often peculiar in fpeciee
and colour ; and it is not a little remarkable that, in this extenfive land,
no quadruped was obferved, except a few rats, and a kind of fox dog,
which is a domeftic animal with the natives.

The general drefs is an oblong garment, made by knotting the filky
llax ; and the ears are ornamented with bits of jad or beads, the face be-
ing often befmeared with a red paint, feemingly iron «chre mingled with
greafe. The habitations arc far fuperior to thofe in New Holland : and
the boats are well built of planks, raifed upon each other, and faiiened
with (Irong withes. Some are fifty feet long, and -fo broad as to be able
to fail without an out -rigger, but the fmaller fort commonly have one,
and they often faften two together by rafters. The large canoes will
carry thirty men or more ; and have often a head ingenioufly carved.
They bake their fifh in a rude oven ; and the ufe of bread is fupplied by a
kind of fern, which yields a gelatinous fubftance likfe fago. They are
ingenious mechanics with their rude tools, which are moftly of green jad.
Their weapons are fpears and javelins, with the pa-too, a kind of club or
rude battle-axe ; and in combat they diilort their features like demons.
The yet warm bodies of their enemies are cut in pieces, broiled, and de-
voured with peculiar fatisfadlion *. The warlike a6tion8 of their anceftors
are prefcrved in traditional fongs, which are frequently fung, and accom-
ptnied with their rude flute.

One of the moft recent accounts of this country is that publiflied-j-
by Mr. Savage, a furgeon, who brought one of the natives to Eng-
land. His defcription particularly applies to the Bay of Ides, a noble
harbour near the north cape of New Zealand, lat. 34° 25' long. 173'^ 4',
while the Bay of Ifles is in lat. 33; ' 6', and E. long 174*^ 43'. In this part
of the country it would appear that the people are rather mild than fero-
cious. The chief animals obferved were a black and white dog, and a
pigeon of large fize and great beauty. The chief town of this part
contains about a hundred houfes.

"•:"'' VI. VAN DIEMEN's LAND. ' *'

This is the lad great divifion yet difcovered of the wide expanfe of
Aiillralaiia. The name was impofed by that eminent Dutch navigator
Tafman, as already mentioned, in honour of the Dutch governor- general
in the £alt Indies ;):. It lias been recently difcovered to be an ifland, in

•Cook, 1. 1 6a. .'-'f -■• f London, 1807, 8TO. •' • . i

t There is another Van Diemen'i Land, a northern capo of Neiv HolUnd. Such du-
fi'lcate nuinet ar< injuriouft to tiit ftudy of geography, and ought to be furmally abrogated,
il » IWrd of Noinenclaiurc, lb n-.'<>h wanted, were inllitutea. The fuiubern Van Dic-
neu'K Uml, or oiw of the iflcs ut' Mew Zealand, fltould be called Tafinania, iu honour ot
tlie difcovercr.

L 1 3 the

■ f.

r\ '

t J ,,.,,. -k-t.'t

518

AUSTRALASIA.

the form of an oblong fquare, about i6o B. niiles in length by half that
breadth, being divided from New Holland by a Itrait, or rather channel
more than thirty leagues wide, w^ich in recent maps is called Bafs's ftrait
and contains a chain of fmall iflands running N. and S. During his laft
voyage, Captain Cook, in January 1777, vifited Diemen's land for fun.
plies of wood and water, and grals for the animals on board. They were
met by fome of the natives, who were entirely naked ; of a common
ftature, but rather flender, the flcin being black, and the hair as woolly
as that of any native of Guinea, but their lineaments were more pleafinfj
than thofe of African negroes. The hair and beards, and of fome the
faces, were fmearcd with red ointment. They'feem to prefer birds to
all other food. The land is chiefly of a good height, diverfified with
hills and valleys, and every where of a grcenifli hue, being well wooded
and watered. , The Tluted Cape appears to be compofed of a very fine
white fand ftone, which in many places bounds the ftiore, and the foil is
either faudy or confills of a yi'llowifli mould, and in fome places of a
xveddifh clay. The forell trees feem to be all of one Ivind, growing
quite Hraight to a great height, and may be well adapted for mails.
The only quadrupeds difcovered were opoffums and kangooroos ; and
the birds carmot differ much from thofe of New Holland, to which there
is as it were a paffage by intermediate ifles. The hovels rcfemble thofe
of New Holland ; but lometimes large trees are hollowed out by fire to
the height of fix or fevcn feet, fo as to form a rude habitation.

POLYNESIA.

THE boundaries of this extenfivc divifion of the globe have already
been brieHy mentioned, in the introduction to the Afiatic Iflands,
A line pafling due north, in the meridian of 130' eall from Greenwich,
will leave the Philippine Idands in the oriental archipelago, divided by a
wide fea from the Pelcw Ifles, the moll weftern group of Polyncfia, though
a few fmall detached ifles appear to the S.W. About 20' N. lat. the
line of demarcation bends N.£. fo as to include the ifle of Todot ht
Santos, and that called Rica de Plata, thence proceeding E. fo as to
include the Sandwich Iflands, and pafs S. about long. 132 'weft, till
it reach the fouthern lat. of 50 , where it turns to the well, and joins the
boundary of Aullralafia.

It is probable that future navigations may greatly improve and enlar^re
the geography of Polynelia, by the difcovery of new groups, and the
more accurate arrangement of thofe already known. At prcfent the fol-
lowing appear to be the chief fubdivifions :

1. The Pclew Ifles.

2. The Ladrones, a chain extending in a northerly direAion, the fmall
iflands in the Pacific feeming to be mollly the fummits of ranges or j
groups of mountains. I

3. The Carolines, a long range from £. to W., fo as perhaps inftrift«|
ficis, to include the Pelews.

4. The Sandwich Ifles. ' -^^ ' ^ * ^ '^
^. The Marqucfas, * '

5. Tliel

POLYNESIA.

5*9^

6. The Society Ifles, fo named in honour of the Royal Society.

7. The Friendly Ifles.

There are, befides, many ifles fcattered in different diredlions, which
it would be difficult to connetl with any group, and indeed none of them,
vet diicovered, appears to be of any coafequence.

, ;,i 1 . . : . I. THE PELEW ISLES. ■ .• ; " - '

This group recently attradled confiderable attention, froman ingenious
andplealing account of them, drawn up by Mr. Keate, from the papers
of Captain Wilfon, who fuftered flxipwreck on thefe iflands in 1783. The
narrative is doubtlefs heightened by Mr. Keate's imagination, but the
people appear to be a moll gentle and amiable race, the gay and innocent
children of nature. It is a peculiarity in the oriental archipelago, that
tlie fmall ifles are the chief feats of comparative civilization, by the
concentration of fociety. To this circumltance may be added, that in
large iflands the natives fpht into diltindl tribes, generally hotlile to
each other, whence the plaafurable paffions almoll expire in the conllant
fucceflion of fear and rage, while, in the fmall iflands, their behig no room
for feceffion, the fociety becomes as it were one family.

The Pelewans are a flout well made people, rather above the middle
llature. Their complexions are of a far deeper colour than what is
underllood by the copper hue, but not black, and their hair is long
and flowing *. Tiie men are entirely naked, while the women only wear
two little aprons, or rather fringes, made of the hulk of the cocoa .;ut.
Both fexcs are tattooed, and the teeth are dyed black. Polygamy is al-
lowed, and the dead are interred. There feems no appearance of reli-
gion of any kind, though they have an idea that the foul furvives the
body. Mild, aflable, and indullrious, .this little tribe, like the inhabitants
of Otaheite, form an exceptit)n to the general rule of favage exillence.
The language is probably a diale^l of the Malay, fu widely diffufed
thruugh thefe feas.

The goverjimcnt is In the hands of a king, under whom there" are
rupakt, or chiefs, who alfo coiiltitute a kind oi nobles. The property of
all tlie land is fuppoled to be veiled in the fovereign ; while that of
the people Is only perfonal, as a canoe, weapons, or rude articles of
furniture. Our domelUc poultry are here wfld in the woods, and were
negledcd by the natives, till taught by the Englifli that they were pro-
per for food. Their chief nouriihment appears to be llih ; but they
make a kind of fweet-meat from the fugar-cane, which feen.s indigenous.
The chief drink is the milk of the cocoa nut. They commonly fife at
day-li^ht, and Immediately go to bathe in frefh water. Their houfc!*
are railed on large ftones, about three teet fro"m the ground, being con-
ftruded of plants and bamboos, and the fire-place in the middle, lecured
with hard rubbifli. There are large maiilions for public meetings. The
bell knives are of mother of pearl, others of a larne miifcle fliell, or Iplit
bamboo. They make oval ved'els of coarfe earthen ware. In general
their articles refemble thole of Otaheite, and other ifles in the vSmuh Sea.
The weapons are fpears, darts, and flingsJ : and the canoes are formed of
the trunk of a tree neatly ornamented.
Tk'fe ifles hud Icarccly been vllited by any European till Captain

I
14

jr. r ,

• Knite, ills.

X.1 4 '

Wilfon

jtil.'^ '•*'*■■

5*0

POLYNESIA.

Wilfon landed at Oloolong. They are in general of a moderate height,
well covered with wood ; and are encircled on the weft fide by a reef
of coral, from two to lix leagues from the (hore, and of great length.
The ebony tree is found in the forefta, and the bread fruit and cocoa
tree feem to abound, with fugar-canes and bamboos. No kind of grain
was feen, nor any quadrupeds, except fome rats in the wood.., and
three or four cats in the houfes, probably drifted afhore from fome
wreck. Of birds, pigeons feem the moft numerous : and the wild poultry
have been already mentioned.

' i, n. THE LADRONES.

This appellation implies the Ifles of Robbers, and was given by that
diftinguiftied navigator Magalhaens, who firil difcovered thefe iflands in
IJ2I, the natives fhewing great difpofition to pilfer, and much addrefs in
the execution of their defigns.

According to the Jefuit Gobien, who has publiftied a particular hiftory
of the Ladroncs, or Marian Idands *, the inhabitants, till the arrival of
the Spaniards, regarded themfelves as the only men in the world. When
they were vifited by the Spaniards and Dutch, they inferred that thefe
Grangers were brethren, who had loll the primitive Guamefe langirge.
In colour, fpecch, manners, and government, they confiderably refL-rnble
the Tagals or people of the Philippines, before the Spanifh conqueii
Thefe ifles were then very populous, Guam, iu forty leagues of circuit,
having thirty thoufand inhabitants.

In the reign of Philip IV. of Spain thefe ifles were alfo called the
Marians, in honour of his queen, Mary of Auftria. The largeil is that
of Guam, but Tinian has attra6led more attention, from the romantic de-
icription in Anfon's voyage. There is no doubt that mariners who have
been long at fea, and fuffered many difeafes and privations, will be infinitely
delighted with any verdant land, and find beauties where none exiH.
Hence fubfequent navigators have been greatly difuppointed in Tinian.
Anfon found here abundance of wild cattle, of a white colour, except the
ears which are generally black or brown. But they had probably been
imported by the Spaniards, as a fupply for the garrifon at Guam. Here
were alfo found oranges, limes, and cocoa nuts, with thai: celebrated and
remarkable tree which bears the bread fruit.

The Ladrones are computed to be twelve or fourteen in number ; but
not above three or four are inhabited. Their vcflels, called flyinjr
proas, have been efteemed Angular fpecimens of naval architedlure, and
at a diftant interval imprefled Pigafctta and Anfon with the ingenuity
of the contrivance. The natural hiitory of thefe iflands is httle knovkn.
It appears from the voyage of La Peroufe that fome of them are
yokanic.

To the N. of the Ladrones are many fmall iflands, extending to Todos
Los Santos, lat. 30 , thofe farther to the N. belong to Japan. This
group may either be arranged among the Ladrones, or might perhaps
tdmit of a diftinA appellation.

The Golden and Silver Ifles feem to be fo ftyled from Japanefe fables,
and with a few other fcattered ifles on the N. of the Carolines, merit lit-
^e attention. In thefe feas is the ftupendous rock called Lot's Wife,
rifing in the form of a pyramid, and thus defcribed by Mr. Meares in hii

•Fwii, if700. iTmo.

voyage}

POLYNESIA.

521

voyage : " The latitude was 29^ ^o' north, the longitude 142" 23' eaft
of Greenwich. The waves broke again il its rugged front, with a fury pro-
portioned to the immenfe diftance they had to roll before they were in-
terrupted by it. It rofe almoft perpendicular to the height of near three
hundred and iifty feet. A fmall black rock appeared juft above the water,
at about forty or fifty yards from the weftern edge. There was a ca-
vern on its fouth-eallern fide, into which the waters rolled with an awful
and tremendous noife. In regarding this flnpendous rock, which ftood
alone in an immenfe ocean, we cuuld not but coniidcr it as an obje£l
which had been able to refift one of thofe great convulfions of nature that
change the very form of thofe parts of the globe which they are per-
mitted to dcfolatc.''

III. Tin: XJAUOLIN'KS. ' >J-*r'*«j..v.> « •

This is the largefl group, or rather the moft extenfive range of iflands
in the Pacific ocean. This chains appears to have been firlt difcovered
by the Spaniards in 1686, and was named firom the Spanifh monarch
Charles IT. They are about thirty in number, and very populous, ex-
cept three which were uninhabited. The natives refemble thofe of the
Philippines, and chiefly live upon fiOi and cocoa nut»; and it is probable
that their language only differs in a few fhades. According to the letters
of the Jefuits, each ifle was fubjett to its chief, but all refpeded a
monarch, who refided at Lamurec.

They believe in certain celcflial fpirits, and think they defcend to bathe
in a facred lake in Fallalo, but there are neither temples nor idols, nor
any appearance of worfhip. The dead are fometimes thrown into the
fea, and at others interred, the grave being furrounded with a ftone wall.
It is faid that thofe of Yap worihip a kind of crocodile, and have their
magicians. Polygamy is allowed, and the Tamul or chief of the large
ille of Hogoleu had nine wives. Criminals are banifhed from one ifle to
another *.

They do not appear to have any inflrumcnts of mufic, but their dances
are accompanied with fongs. Their only weapons are lances, armed with
bone. Even in this diflant quarter of the globe negro (laves are not un-
known : and in one or two of the iflands the breed is faid to be mingled^
twenty nine Spaniards having been left on one of thefe iflands, who are
fuppofed to have married and fettled. The people of Ulea are reported
to be more civilized than the relt, and appear much to refemble thpfe of
the Pelews.

The moft confiderable of the Carolines is Hogoleu, about 90 B. miles
in length by 40 in breadth. Next is Yap, in m& weliem extremity of
this chain, but not above a third part of that fize. The Caroline iflands
have been little vifited by recent navigators ; but a few fmatl groups have
been difcovered in their eaftern extremities, which may properly be claffed
in the fame range.

'"•''' IV. THE SANDWICH ISLES. '^ ''"' '" ' *

These iflands appear to have been firfl difcovered by our great navigator
Cook, and the ifland Owhyhee the largeft in the group, being about 280
B. miles in circumference, is unfortunately diftinguifhed as the place where
this able commander was flain by the natives in February 1779*

* DeBrulfes, 4»6.

Thefe

522

POLYNESIA.

Thefe iflands were fo named by Cook in gratitude to the earl of Sand.
wich, a miniiter who had warmly promoted liis labours. The natives are
rather of' a darker complexion than thofe of Otaheite, but the features

the point, perhaps owing to the mode of falutation, in which they prefs
their nofes together. Captain King reprefents them as a mild and afTec-
tionate people, free from the Otahcitaii levity, and the proud gravity of
thofe of the Friendly Ifles. This ingenious people have evtn made fome
fwogrefs in agriculture and manufactures : yet they Itill facrifice human
victims, but do not eat them hke the people of New Zealand, at leall fo
tar iis information could be obtained. The heard is generally worn ; and
among the ornaments of both fexes is a kind of fan to drive away flits,
made of th.^ fibres of the cocoa nut, or of long feathers. Like the other
aations of Pulyneiia* they tattoo their bodies : and among females even the
tip of the tongue. The drefs coniills of a narrow piece of coarfe cloth
called the marot prepared in the fame manner as at Otaheite, which pall'es
between the legs and is faftened round the loins, In battle the men throw
a kiAd of mats over their (houlders, and this armour is neatly manufadlured.
On folemn occafions the chiefs wear dreifes, artfully and beautifully formed
of feathers. The women have only a (light wrapper, and the hair is cut
fliort behind, but turned up from their forehead. The food confills
chiefly of iifli, to which are added yams, plantains, and fugar canes ;
while people of rank feall on the wild boar, and fometimes the flefli of
dogs. The government is in a fupreme chief called Eree Taboo, whofe
funeral is accompanied by the facrifice of two or more fervants. The in.
ferior chiefs are ftyled Erees ; and there is a fecond clafs of, proprietors,
and a third of labourers, all thefe ranks feemmg to be hereditary. Though
human facrilices be here more frequent, the other rites appear to cur-
refpond with thofe of the Society lilands, wliich (hall be defcribed in the
account of Otaheite.

CtiMATK.] The climate appears to be more temperate than that of
the Well Indies ; apd in Owhyhee the mountains arrell the clouds, and
produce rain inland, while there is funflune on the ihore. The winds feem
generally eailerly, and there is a regular land and fca breeze.

Zoology.] The quadrupeds, as ufual in Polynefia, are few; only
hogs, dogs, and fats, being difcovercd. The kinds of bird$ are not nu>
inerou9, being, among others, large white pigeons, plovers, owls, and a
kind of raven. Thefe illands produce abundance of the bread fruit, and
fugar canes of amazing dze. Upon the whole this difcovery was impor-
tant ; and Owhyhee is the large It idand yet found in the wide extent of
PolyneO^.

'■i • -r

'S-"

V. THE MARQUESAS,

These iflaods were difcovered by Mendana, wlio impofed the name in
honour of Don Garcia de Mendo^a, marquis of Caniente, viceroy of
Peru, whence they are alfo fometime» ftyled the ifles of Mendoza. One
of the bed known to F.uropeans is the IHe of Ohittalioo, to the S. oi
tlie larger Ifle Ohevahoiv^

In 1774 the Marquefas were vifited by captain Cook, and in 1789 by
the French circumnavigavor Marchand, The bell recent account of them
is that given in the Mifiiojjary Voyage, captain Wilfon having vifited the
Marquefas in 1797.

POLYNESIA.

'35

The natives are faid to furpafs all other nations in fymmetry of ihape,
and regularity of features ; and were it not for the praftice of tattooin|r
which blackens the body by numerous pundures, the complexion would
be only tawny, while the hair is of many colours, but none red. Some
of the women are nearly as fair as Europeans, and among them tattooing
is not fo univerfal *. A long narrow piece of cloth was wrapt round
the waift, the ends being tacked up between the thigha, while a broad
niece of their cloth was thrown over the fliouldcr, reaching half way
down the leg.

The religious ceremonies rc'femble thofe of Otaheite ; and they have
amorai in each dillri£k, wh>.! .^ the dead are buried under a pavement of
large Hones. Their deities are numerous, and the chiefs feem to have
little power, culloni alone being followed, inllead of laws. Like mod
uncivilized nations, they have no regular^meal8, but eat five or fix times a
day, or oftener. The women feem more fubjefted to the men than at
Otaheite. The canoes are made of wood, and the bark of a foft tree,
being commonly from fixteen to twenty feet in length, the prow carved in
Tude refemblance of a human face.

No quadrupeds were difcovered except hogs, but there are tame poul-
try ; and the woods are filled with many beautiful birds. In one of thefe
itles an Eiigliih miifionary was left, in the benevolent intention of difoou-
raging mutual Daughter, and human facrifices.

The large ll iile of the Marquefas, Noabeva^ is not above half thp
fize of Otaheice, and in general the multitude of fmall iflands in thefe
feas prefents a wonderful variety in the works of nature, the largei):
illand yet difcovered in Polynefia being Owhyhee, which is about lOO
J}, railed in loigth.

• IT

VI. THE SOCIETY ISLES.

This group has attrafted more attention than any other in Polyne-
lia, ai.d our admiration of Otaheite has excited fome degree of ridi-
cule on the continent.

All the iflands from longitude 160'^ weft from Greenwich, to the
callern extremity of Polynefia, may be included under the general name
of Society Iflands, a range which will thus even exceed the Carolines in
number, amounting to fixty or feventy. Of thefe, Otaheite is ftill by
far the moft connderable in fize, being about 120 miles in circum>
ference. It confills of two peninfulas, joined by a neck of land, about
three miles in breadth, the fmalleft peninfula to the S.E. being about
fifteen miles in length, by ten in breadth, while the large peninfula to
the N.W. is almoll circular, and about twenty-five miles in diameter :
the whole length being thus about forty 'g. miles, 'or forty-fix Britifh.
From the map drawn by captain Cook, and repubUfhed with fome im-
provements in the Miffionary Voyage, this ifland appears to confift of
two mountains, a larger and a fmaller, joined by the narrow ridge
above mentioned; and the habitations are entirely confined to the level
coalU. This circumftance feems univerfal in P dynefia, as the natives
croud to the (hores for fi(h, their chief aliment ; and it is probable
that, the original colonies having fettled on the coails, indolence has
prevented them from vifiting the inland heights. Nor is it improbable
tifdt even in the large countries of Auftralalia a fimilar fingularity may

• Miifionary Voyage, Loudon, 17991 4to. p. 145,

524

POLYNESIA.

be obferved, tbe fcardty of animal food probably Compelling the na.
tives chiefly to refide on the fliores.

Near the central fummit of the large mountain of Otaheite, which in
circumference, though not in height refembles Etna, there ig a curious
lake of fome extent : but no river appears, there being only rivulets
which fpring from the fkirts, and purfue a brief courfe of two or three
miles to the ocean.

Inhabitants.] The natural colour of the inhabitants is olive, in.
dining to copper. Men expofed to the fun become very dark ; but the
women are only a ihade or two deeper than an European brunette. They
have fine black eyes, with white even teeth, foft ikin, and elegant limbs-
while their hair is of a jetty black, perfumed and ornamented with flowers*.
But with all thefe advantages they yield infinitely in beauty to the wo.
men of the Marquefas, the face being widened from continual prelTure
from infancy, which by diftending the mouth, and flattening the nofe and
forehead, gives a broad mafculine appearance. Hence it is evident that
the Grecian and academical forms, given by artifts void of real tafte or
precifion, to the people of the South Seas, in the prints that accompany
the Englifli and French voyages, are totally falfe and imaginary.

The chiefs are taller than tne people, few being under fix feet ; and as
perfonal fize and ftrength are the chief diilinAions in early fociety, it is
probable that their ancellors were felefted for thefe advantages, which
nave been continued by fuperior food and eafe. The drefs of both fexes
is nearly the fame, except that the men wear the maro, a narrow piece of
cloth wrapped round the waift, and pafling between the thighs ; an ob.
long piece, cut in the middle to admit the head, hangs down before and
behind : and' another piece is wrapped round the middle, and a fquare
mantle is thrown over all. Both fexes wear garlands of flowers and fea.
thers ; and the women ufe a kind of bonnet made of cocoa leaves. Par-
turition is eafy ; and the infant can fwim as foon as it can walk.

Their voice and fpeech are foft and harmonious ; and their dialed^ is the
Italian of the Pacific ocean. Their rude manufadures are truly wonder-
ful, and evince the greatelt ingenuity. Their dwellings are about eigh-
teen feet in length, with a few articles of furniture, fuchas trays, baikets,
mats, and a large cheft.

Religion. [ Their deities are numerous; each family having its Tcr,
or guardian Ipirit, whom they worniip at the morai ; but they have a
great god, or gods of a fuperior order, ftyled Fwhanow Po, or thf
progeny of night. Thefe benevolent people cannot conceive a future

{)uni(hment ; and regard the idea alone as the utmoft effort of human ma-
ignity. But they admit the immortality of the foul, and degrees of fu-
ture eminence and happinefs, proportioned to its virtue and piety.
The Tahuuras, or prielts, are numerous, and have great power ; but all
the chiefs officiate on certain occafions. The human viaims are com.
monly criminals, and are killed during deep ; a curious inftance of fero-
cious fuperftition, mingled with mildnefsofcharaf^er.

Zoology.]] The chief animals are hogs, as ufual in all the ifles of Po-
lynefia, pnd they" have alfo dogs and poultry. The bread fruit tree
abounds ; and large plantations are made of cocoa trees and plantaini.
The feas fwarm with fifh, and in catching them great ingenuity ii dif-
played, the canoes having outriggers, or being aoubled, by laihingtwo
together.
Though the people of the Friendly Iflands be fuperior in unprovementi

• MifT. Voya^, 887.

and

POLYNESIA.

its Tee,
eyhavca
, or tht
a future
man ma-
of fu-
piety,
but all
arc com-
of fero.

lesofPo-
fruit tree

jlantaini.
is dif*

ling two

jtementi

and

and government ; and the women of the Marquefas far fupeiior in beauty ;
yet (he people in Otaheite are fo polite and affable, and their manners fa
engaging, that joined with the romantic beauty of the country, the nu-
merous ftreams, and the fuperabundance of fpontaneous produdions* this
iiland is ftill preferred to all others in Polynefia.

It has already been mentioned that this ifland confifts as it were of two
mountains. Thefe are encircled by a border of low bnd, from the beach
to the rifmg of the hills, in fome places near a mile in breadth, while
in others the rocks impend over the fea. The foil of the low lands, and
of the vales which interfe6l the ridge towards the ocean, is remarkably
fertile, confifting of a rich blackiih mould. When the trade wind geti
far to the fouth it rains on that fide of the ifland ; but on the north the
Ihowers are lefs frequent and violent. In the latter the harvefl: of bread
fruit begins about November, and continues till the end of January:
while in the fouthern part it often begins in January and continues till
November. On afcending the hills, the foil changes from a rich loam
into veins of cfay, or marl, of various colours. Beneath is a foft fand(lone»
of a brownifh colour ; and bafaU aifo abounds, of a fine grain, oC
which they ufcd to make their tools. The black volcanic glafs, called
obfidian, is faid to be found in the rivers, and alfo pumices, fure indl-
catioBS that a vplcano once exiited. The larger frefli water lake
above mentioned may perhaps have been its crater. This lake it
faid to be fathomlefs ; but its fliores are well peopled by an induftriout
race. The chief harbour of Otaheite appears to be Matavia, on the
north fide of the iOand ; but there is another of fimilarnote in the S.E.y
called Langaras.

The next ifland in regard to fizc is Ulitea : and the others of this group*
even taken in its utmolt extent, arc of far inferior dimenfions to Otaheite,
nor has any ftriking fmgularity yet been obferved which might claim at-
tention in a general defcription.

As an appendage to this article, fome account may be added of Eader
Idand, a detached and remote region, which however, fo far as the dif-
coveriea yet extend, feems rather to belong to Polynefia than to South
America. This ifle appears to have been firft feen by Davis in 1686;
and was afterwards vifited by Cook and La Peroufe. It is of a triangular
form, the longelt fide being above twenty-five miles in length, and at one
extremity there appears to have been a volcano. The morais, or burial
places, are of a remarkable ItruAure ; being a kind of platform, in
which are fixed fliapclcfa and uncouth maifes, rudely carved in imita-
tion of bulls, fometimes about fifteen feet in height. In thefe a red
lava, very porous and light, is ciiicfly employed. There is fcarccly a
tall tree in Ealtcr Ifle, nor any brook, the water being retained in ca-
vities mnde in the rocks ; but the natives are very induitrious, and
plant paper-mulberries, and bananas, with regular fitlds of potatoes
and yams. They have the fame language and features witlj the other ,
natives of Polyneiia.

Vir. FRlENnLY ISLE?.

Tins group extends chiefly from S.W. to N.E. including the Feejre
Ides, thofe called the Ifles of Navigators, and fevoral detached iflrs in a
more northerly pofition. The name was impofed by captain Cook, in
tiftimony of the difpofition of the people ; but they had been difcovered
byTafmanin 1643, who called the chief ifle, nuw ilylrd by the nativo

7 term

52^

POLYNESIA*

term Tongataboo, by the name of Atndcrdam *. Hisi account of the
manners of the people corrcfponds with the more recent and precife in.
formation given by captain Cook, and other Lite navigators. They are
contraftcd with thofe of Otaheitc, as being of a more grave and regular
behaviour ; and the power of the chiefs is more defpotic. A greater fe.
curity of property has alfo fuperinduccd more ingenuity and induftry :
but in general the manners and cuftoms approach fo nearly, that a farther
account might appear repetition ; and the perfons of the natives arc
likewife fimilar, though the chiefs feem inferior in ftature.

In the Miillonary Voyage 1797, there is an interelling map of Ton-
gataboo, which thence appears to be a plain country, in an univerfal and
lurpriHng ftate of cultivation, the whole ifland confilling of. inclofiires,
with reed fences about fix feet high, interfered with innumerable roads.
The whole is fuch a pi£lin-e of induftry, as to form a reproach to nation*
who call themfelves civilized. The length of Tongataboo is only about
fixteen miles, by about ei^jht at its greateft breadth. On the north fide
there is a lagoon, with feveral ifles, conftituting a tolerable harbour.
The commodities are, as ufual, hogs, bread fruit, cocoa nuts, and
yams.

Though the people of the Friendly Ifles be more free from wars than
thofe of the group before defcribed, yet Tongataboo is often ftaincd with
human vidims ; nor do their ideas of property prevent their ftealing from
ftrangers. Some miffionaries were here left, who imparted fome ufeful
arts to tlte natives, but the rats were very deftruftive to tlw European
plants. Thefe, with hogs, dogs, and guanos, conftituted the only qua-
drupeds, till cats were left in the voyag*- of 1797. The morais fcem to
be here called fiatookas ; and are conilruded in the form of terraces with
high fteps, the material being coral ttone.

To the N. W. are the Fcejoc ifles, whicli the Englifli miffionaries dif-
covcrcd to be now fubject to Tongataboo.

From the accounts of La Peroule it would appear that the ifles dif-
covered by Bougainville in 1768, and by him called the Isl.vnds ok
Navigators, are by far the moll important in this largo group. At
Maouna, one of thcie iflands, captain De I^angle, Lamanon the natii.
rahll, and nine feamen were maflacrcd by the inhabitants, tlie captain
having unadvifedly given beads to a few of the chiefs, while he neglc£^oJ
the others. From the chart of La Pernufe it appears that the largell of
thefe illands, which he calls Pola, is about tliirty-lVven g. milts in lenpth,
by about half that breadth, being thus inferior to Otaheitc, though far
furpaflTmg Tongataboo. Next in gradual diminution of fi/e, and in pofi.
tion from W. to E. are Oyolava, Maouna, and Opoun. If the ac-
counts of La Peroufe be not greatly exaggerated, the I (latiils of Na-
vigators conilitutc the mod important group yet dilcovered in fou.
thcrn Polynefia, in regard to fertility and ])opulation. At M;\niina
the frigates were furrounded with two iunidred canoes, full of dillor-
ent kinds of provifion, fowls, hogs, pigeons, or fniit. 'J'hc won^fn
were very pretty ;'.nd licentiouT ; and tlw men of r»-mark;il)'e Aaturr,
ftrength, and ferocity: fo tliat tliey di fpifed tlie cuinpiiriitivelv dimi-
wutive li/.e of the French. The villages are delightfully iituated in the
midft of fpontaneous orchards and the huts neatly ereded. withrudf
colnnades, and covered with leaves of the cocoa palm. Hogs dogs, nml
fowls, abounded { with the bread fruit tree, the cocoa nut, the buiiunai

• S« liit dtfi ription and I'r'nn in Dn'rymjilf's follifilon, vol, ii. p. 7 J.

tilt

POLYNESIA.

^27

llie

the guavaf and the otange. Iron and cloth were defpifed, and beadu
alone acceptable.

According to La Peroufe the ifland of Oyolava' is at leail equal to
. Otaheite, in beauty, extent, fertility, and population ; and he fuppofes
that this ifle, with the larger ifle of Pola, and that of Maoitna, contain
400,000 inhabitants *. Such is the abundance of prnvifions, that at
Maoiina 500 hogs, and an immenfe quantity of fruit, were procured in
twenty-four hours. The natives of Oyolava are alfo of great ftature ; and
here was obferved the largell village in all Polynefia. fmoking hfce a city*
vliile the fea was covered with canoes. Though the people be remark*
able for a ferocity of charafter, fcarcely to be obferved in any other part
of Polynelia, they are ftill induftrious and ingenious, pol.ifhing their
wooden works very highly, with tools made of bafalt. They have not

only the bark cloth, but a kind compofed of real thread, probably from

llax, refembling that of New Zealand. Their fpcech was underftood by

anativeof the Philippines, being derived from the Malay, a language

diffufed through all the fcattered ifles of Polynelia.
The Iflands of Navigators are covered with fruit trees of various de-

fcriptions, in which wood pigeons and turtle doves fwarmy and to tame

them is a favourite amufcmcnt of the natives.

Botany of thi AJiat'ic IJlest of Aujlralnjta^ and of Polyntfia.

The plants which have already been mentioned as charaAcrizing
the peninfula of Hindoilan and India beyond the Ganges, form a very
eflential feature in the botany of thofe crowded groups that geogra>
phers have dillinguiilied by the names of the Philippines, the Moluccas,
and the ifles of Sunda, and which on this account, may be regarded as
forming a large and important appendix to the Indian continent. Situ*
atcd ai they are dircAly under the equator, and extending to the dif-
tanee of about ten degrees north and foulh on each fide of it, every thing
that can be produced in vegetation by the combined influence of heat and
tnuillure is here exhibited in complete perfection. Being inhabited by
a vigilant and warlike people, and unhealthy in the extreme to an Euro-
pean conilitution, only a few commercial fettlements have been eflabliflied
on the fea coails, fo that we remain almoll entirely ignorant of their
interior vegetable prodadions, many of which are probably peculiar to
thefi* countries.

All the Eud Indian palms, fuch as the cocoa nut, the arrca, the fago,
the palmetto, and the great fun-p;\lm abound m thefe iflandH, and furniflt
food and wine to the natives at the lead poflfible cxpence of labour : noi*
arc they dellitute of any of thofe fruit-bearing trees that adorn and enrich
the neigbuuriiig continent : the lufcious mungo, the fcentcd cugenia,
the fevcr-oooling tan arind, the pomegranate, and the orange, with all
its kindred fpecies and varieties, ofTor themfilves on every lide to the
rhoice of the inhabitants. The plantairf tree, the ginger, the fugar-csftie,
tlie turmeric, the pine apple, the yam, the Iweet p*>tatoe, rice, and an in-
finite variety of kidney beans, cvicum^eiH, melons, and g'onrd«, are found
both cultivated and wild in inccinccivablo luxuriance ; the hrger gralfcs

• \a Prrtniff, 4' t. So t\)ok (>v( r-ntrd die |M>ii|)le of OtuJ-.citr, ro'* Afccntinfd 10
l*"iil» 1(>,(),S0. MilT. Voy. rtTttrr, Otif. 11'), f.i^jily MUUr* i\uX Oni'iriU' loiiUitu kt
Init Dio.uji). In like miituirr \m \'vut\\w\ -tuo.oo'i niny inolmMv li- lo.ooo. It i«
ptubijlr tlut iltvri- w« nut ttbjvc juu.uuu foul* ill ttll AuUialtii* vvi iVIuuli*.

.If..,

POLYNESIA.

^fo, fuch as the lbamboo> and the canna, which have been already
noticed as inhabitants of India, acquire a ftill more ftately growth
tn the fwamps of Java and Sumatra than on the banks of the Ganges.

The fandal wood and the precious calambac or aloes wood, the canaria
from whofe bark flows the gum elemi, the annotta, the caffia, and the
ebony, together with many other valuable woods and gums, whofe ufes
•ad even names are unknown to Europe, are produced in thefe iflands in
higher perfeftion than elfewhere.

The eicceffive heat and abundance of moifture that diftinguifli the In-
dian iflands, conftitute a climate peculiarly favourable for the growth of
tfiofe plants whofe a£iive qualities and high aromatic flavour place them
at the head of the vegetable world : this therefore is the native country
of the moil valued fpices. Pepper, both the long and the rotmd, is found
wild, and is largely cultivated in all thefe iflands : the laurus cinnamomum,
the inner bark of which conititutes the pungently fragrant fpice of the
fame name, is produced chiefly in Sumatra and the neighbouring ifles ;
caryophyllus aromaticus, the receptacle of whofe bloiTom is known in the
European markets by the name of cloves, abounds for the moft part in
the Moluccas ; and the myriitica, whofe fruit is the nutmeg, and its inner
covering the mace, by the mean jealoufy of the Dutch Eall India Com-
pany has been altnoft entirely reltridted to the little iflands of Banda ad-
joining to Amboyna. But if this part of the globe be enriched by the
mod precious aromatics, it is alfo armed with the mod active and deadly
poifons ; the fame burning fun that exalts the former matures the latter.
In the ifland of Celebez is produced the dreadful Macaflar poifon, a gum
refin which exudes from the leaves and bark of a kind of rhus; this
fpecies, together with other poifonous trees of the fame ifland, is called
by the natives ipo or upas, a name now immortalized by the genius of Dr.
Darwin. Such indeed is the deleterious adlivity of this tree, that, wheo
deprived of all poetic exaggeration, it ftill remains unrivalled in its powers
of deftruAion : from the fober narrative of Rumphius we learn that no
other vegetable can live within a nearer diftance of it than a ftone's throw ;
that fmall birds accidentally alighting on its branches are immediately
killed by the poifonous atmolphere which furrounds it ; and that in order
to procure the juice with fafety, it is neceffary to cover the whole body
with thick cotton cloth : if a perfon approaches it bare-headed, it caufef
the hair to fall off ; and a drop of the frefh juice applied on the broken ' I
(kin, if it fliould fail to produce immediate death, will caufe an ulcer very
difficult to be healed.

All that we know of the indigenous vegetables of Now Holland is
confined to the immediate neighbourhood of the Britifli feltlcmrnt at Port
Jackfon. Theforells here are for the moft part compofed of lofiy trees,
with little or no interruption of nndcrwood, (o that they are r. adily pe-
netrable in any direAion, tlw principal fti( Iter afforcUd to the few wild
animals being in the long matted grals, fcvcral feet in length, which over-
fpreads the open country. In no difcove red region has nature been lei;*
lavifti of her vegetable treafures than in tiiis part of the great foulhcrn
continent : the only fruit-bearing plant is a climbing flinib, tiie I'uJsuf
which are enveloped in a yellow cylindrical pulp tafting like a roalhd
apple. The loftieft of the trees, and which fomctimcs riles to the height
of a hundred feet, is the eucalyptus robuib ; it yields the brown g\mi,
and its compadt bard red wood has been imported into England by the
name of New Holland mahogany. The red j^uni is procured from tlic
ccratopetalum gummiferum, almuii the only one of the native wood^tthat

will

POLYNESIA.

529

ffill float in water. A confiderable proportion of the vegetriUcs belong
to the natural, clafs of the papilionaceous, yet few even of thefe are re-
ferable to any of the old genera ; two elegant fpecies, the platylobium
formofum and pultnxa ftipularis, have been introduced into our liot-
houl'es. The other indigenous plants are for the moll part but Ijttle re-
markable for their beauty or ufe, and the notice that they obtain iri our
gardens is chiefly owing to their being foreigners.

As we advance farther in the great Pacific Ocean towards America,
and examine tht botany of thofe numerous clullers of iflands wliich ex-
tend in breadth from the Ladrones to Eafter Ifland, and" in length from
the Sandwich ifland* under the northern tropic, to New Zealand, twenty
degrees beyond the fouthern one, we (hall lind many features of general
relemblance, modified however in fuch a manner as may naturally be ex-
peded by the different proportions which each receives of warmth and
moillure, the two great fupports of vegetation. The four following
tfculent plants are found either wild or cultivated in all the iflands of this
ocean that have yet been viiitcd, namely, the fweet potatoc, arranged in
the Linnxan fyltem as a fpecies of convolvulus ; the ya^m, whofe tuberous
root in the gardens of Otaheite fomotimes attains the weight of thirty
pounds; and two fpecies of arum, which, by culture and roafting, be-
come a mild farinaceous f«od. Of the plants peculiar to the tropical
iflands, the chief is the artocarpus, or bread fruit : this valuable tree rifcs
to the height of more than forty feet, with a trunk about the thicknefs
of a man's body ; its fruit, which is nearly as large as a young child's
head, being gathered while yet unripe, and roaftedin the afhes, is a moll
ffholefome nourilhmcnt, and in tafte refembles new wheaten bread : for
eight fucceflive months every year does this tree continue to furnifh fruit
in fuch abundance, that three of them are amply fuiBcient for the
fupport of one man ; nor is this the whole of its value, the inner bark
is manufaAured into cloth, the wood is excellent for the conftruc*
tion of huts and canoes, the leaves ferve inftead of napkins, and of
its milky glutinous juice a tenacious cement and birdlime is prepared.
Of almoft equal importance with the bread fruit, and even more ge-
nerally difFufed through the iflands, are the plantain and cocoa nut
trees. The fweet orange is found fparingly in the New Hebudes, and
the fan palm is met with on the mountains of the Friendly Iflce. The
fugar>cane, the paper mulberry, together with fevcral fpecies of figs,
are inhabitants cf all the larger and rocky ifles ; and the piper methyiti-
cum, from which is prepared the highly intoxicating ava or kava, ii
unhappily but too frequent. Three plants are eftccmed facrcd, viz.
the crateva or purataruru, the terminalia glabra or tara iri, and the dra-
cena terminalisy on which account they «re chiefly employed in fhading
the morait.

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• AMERICA.

1-,

C 536 3

AMERICA. ,

Sxtent. — Origin and Progrefs of the DifcoverUs and Settlements' — fopula*

tion of this Continent.

F TirwT T T^I^E fouthern limit of the American continent is clearly
r-x - .J ^ eftimated from the llrait of Magalliaens, or, according
to the French depravation of a Portuguefe name Magellan. But the
northern extent is not afcertaincd with equal precifion. If Baffin's bay
really exill, the northern limit may extend toi 80 degrees, or perhaps to
the pole. But amidft the remaining uncertainty, it will be fufficient to
eftimate the length of America from the 7 2d degree of north latitude to
the ilrait of Magalhaens, or the 54th degree of fouth latitude ; a fpacc
of 126 degrees, or 7560 geographical miles.

In South America the grcatett breadth is from cape Blanco in the weft
to that of St. Roque in tlie eait ; which, according to the beil maps,
is 4S degrees, or 2880 g. miles. But in the north the breadth may be
computed from the promontory of Alaflca to the mod eaftern point of
Labrador, or even of Greenland, which would add more than a third
part to the eftimate. In firitifli miles the length of America may be
eilimated at 8800, and fuppofmg the breadth of North America 3840
g. miles, it will, in Britifh miles, be about 4400.

Discovery of America.] The firli difcovery of America is generally
afcribed to Chriftoval Colon, or as commonly called, from the firft Latig
writings on the fubje£l, Chrillophcr Columbus. But as it is now univer*
fally admitted that Greenland forms part of America, the difcovery muft
of courfe be traced to the Brll vifitation of Greenland by the Norwe>
gians, in the year 982 ; which was followed in the year 1003 by thedif*
coverv of Vinland,, which feems to have been part of Labrador, or of
Newfoundland. The colony in Vinland was foon deftroyed by inteliine
divifions ; but that in Greenland continued to flouriih till maritime intep
courfe was impeded by the encroaching flioals of arctic ice. Though the
firft European colony in America was thus loft, the Danes afTerted their
right by fettlements on the wuftern coaft, culled New Greenland, to diA
tinguiHi it from the original colony on the eaftern (horesi or what i& cil<
led Old Greenland. ;? > ;• -

Greenland continued to be well known ; and, as many Englifh vcfleli
failed to Iceland in ihe fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, it is probable
that this part of America was not wholly uitvifited by them.

The chief epochs of American difcovery are :

A.D. 982. Greenland difcovcred by the Norwegians, who planted 1
colony.

1003. Vinland, that is a part of Labrador or Newfoundland, vifitedbr
the Norwegians, and a fmall colony left, which, however, foon perilhed.

After this there feems a long paufe, for no farther difcovery in Ame*
rica has hitherto been traced, by the utmoft exertion of learned refcarcb
till the time of Colon.

1492. Colon fuils from Spain, in queft of t]ie new world, on Friday the
3d day of Auguft. On the i ft of Odobcr he was, by his reckoning, 770
leagues W. ofthe Canaries. His men began to mutiny, and he was forced
to promifc to return in three days, if land did not appear. Fortunate I
jMTc&ges fooQ arufe> ai Uto.^ birdii « Citfic newly cut| a carved piece of

America.

WoDcl, and the branch of a tiee with frtfh red berries ** 1* heffe and other
fymptoms induced Colon to order the fliips to lie to in the evening of the
lith of 0£iober» in the certainty of feeing land on the approach of day*
light. The night was paflbd in gazin^r expectation ; and a hght having
beenobferved in motion, the cry of fanaf land! refounded froiA the head^
moll (hip. With the dawn of Friday, Odober i ath) a beautiful iile ap-
peared, two leagues to the northo TV Deum was fung with fhouts of ex-
ultation, and every mark of gratitude and veneration to the admiral.
Colon was the firft who landed^ to the great amazement o; the natives*
who regarded their vifitors as children of the fun> the ail^nifhment on
both fides being indefcribable.

This firlt dtfcovery of Colon he called San Salvador, but it is now
better known by the native name of Guanahani» (the Cat ifland of our
mariners,) being one of the group called the Bahama ifles. Colon foon
afterwards difcovered Cuba and St. Domingo. After vifiting the Azores
on his return, he arcived at Li(bon on the 4th of March 149J.

149 j. The /eiond voyage of Colon, 2jth September. Steering more
foutherly he difcovered feveral of the Caribbee iflands, founded a town in
St. Domingo, being the firil European fettlement in the new world, and
did not return till 1496.

1498. l^jtrd voyage of Colon toward the fouth-weft, where he expec-
ted to find the Spice Iflands of India. On the firlt of Auguft he dif-
covered an ifland, which he called Trinidad, not far.from the mouth of the
river Oronoco. From the elluary of this river he judged that it mud flow
through a country of immeufc extent ; and he landed in feveral places on
the coalt of the continent now called Paria. He then returned to Hif-
paniolaor St. Domingo { and in October 1500, was fent back to Spain
in chains !

1499. Ojeda, an officer who had accompanied Colon in his fecond voy-
age, iaib to America with fonr fliips, but difcovered Lttle more than Co-
lon had done. One of the adventurers was Amerigo Vefpucoi, a Floren-
tine, amanof fcience, eminently flcilled in navigation, who perhaps af^edas
chief pilot. On his return, Amerigo publilhed the lird; defcription that had
yet appeared of any part of the new continent : and the caprice of fame
has afligned to him an honour above the renown of the greatcil conquer-
ors, that of indehbly imprelEng his name upon this valt portion of the
earth.

1500. On his voyage to the Eaft Indies, Cabral, the Portuguefe admi-
ral, diicovers Brazil. This uudeligncd difcovcry, evinces that, indepen-
dently of the fagacity of Colon, America could no lunger have remained
ia ubfcurity.

1502. Fourth voyage of Co'on, in %thich he difcovers a great part of
I the continent, and particularly the tiarbour of Purto^-bello.
I IJ13. Vafco Nunez de Balboa defcried, from the mountains of the

illhmus, the grand Pacif.c Ocean ; and h<' aftiTwards waded into the.

waves, and took polfeffion of it in the name of the SpaniOi monarch*

This difcovery feems to have terminated the vain expectation that Ame-
[rica formed part of Afia.

It feems unnecelTary to trace with minutenefs the other epochs of dif-
Icovery in this quarter. In 15 if the continent was explored as far as Rio-

de Plata ; but even in 1518 little was known conceining its weftcm parts ;
land t wenty.fi X years had elapfed fince the firll voyage of Colon, before
I the exigence was rumoured of the empires, or kingdoms of Mexico and

* Robfrtfon's America, i, 11 4.

M la a

Peru.

532

AMERICA.

Peru. Mifpaniola and Cuba ftill continued to be the cbief feats of tlie
SpaniOi power. In 151(5 Cortcz, with eleven fmall veffels, containing 617
*nen proceeds to the conqueft of Mexico, which was accompliflied in K21.
Magalhaens, at the fame time having explored the Pacific Ocean, the dif!
covery of the weftern coaft of America became a neceffary confequence.
After many reports concerning the riches of Peru, that country was at
length vifited in i526"by Pizarro in a vefiel from Panama. In 1530 the
conqueft of Peru was begain by Pi/arro, at the head of 36 cav^ry and
144 infantry : and in ten years that empire was divided among his fol.
lowers. In 1543 the firft Spanifli viceroy appeared in Peru.

In North America the epochs of difcovery were more flow.

1497. Giovanni Gaboto a Venetian, called by the Englifli John Cabot,
tvho had received a commiffion from Henry VII. in i495> in the view of
tracing a nearer paflage to India, difcovered Newfoundland, fo called by
his failors ; and infpeded the American fliore as far as Virginia : but, this
land forming merely an obdacle to his wUhes, he returned to England.

1500. Corte de Real, a Portuguefe captain^ in fearch of a north-weft
paffage, difcovered Labrador.

15 13. Florida was difcovered by Ponce, a Spanifli captain.
• 1534. Francis I. fending a fleet from St. Maloee, to eftabHfli a fettle.
ment in Nprth America, Cartier the commander, on the day of St. Lau. 1
rence, difcovered the great gulph and river to which he gave the name of
that faint. In the following year he failed about 300 leagues up this {
noble ftream to a great catarad; built a fort, and called the country New
France.

1578. Sir Humphrey Gilbert obtained a patent for fettling lands m I
America. Ih 1583 he difcovered and took pofleflion of the harbour of
St. John, and the country to the fouth, but was loll on his return *. I

The voyage of Drake round the world ferved to kindle the enthufiaftn
of the Englifli ; and Ralegh obtained a patent flmilar to that of Gilbert.)

1584. Two fmall veflels difpatched by Ralegh unfortunately bent their J
courfe to that country now called North Carolina, inftead of reaching the I
noble bays of Chefapeak or Delawar f . Thefe veflels returned to England!
vrikh two of the natives ; and Elizabeth afligned to this region the namel
cf Virginia, an appellation which became laxly applied to the Britifhl
fettlertients in North America, till it was confined to a diflierent countryl
from the original Virginia. I

1583. Ralegh fent a fmall colony under the command.of Sir RichardI
Grenville, who fettled in the ifle of Roanoke, a moft incommodious and
ufele'fs ftation, whence they returned in i j86. The account of this fettleJ
Rient, illuftrated with excellent prints, was publiflietl under the aufpiceJ
of Ralegh ; who made other unfuccefsful attempts to colonize the counJ
try, and afterwards reflgned his patent to fome merchants, who were ronj
tented with a petty tramc. At the death of Elizabeth, 1603, there waj
not one Englifliman fettled in America } and the Spaniards and Portuj
guefe alone bad formed any eflablifliment on that vait continent. I

The venerable Hakluyt, anxious that his countrymen fliould partakeol
the benefit of colonies, procured an affociation of men of rank and taj
lent! for this purpofe ; and a patent was granted by James I., April th|
lOth, 1606, that monarch being wholly unconfcious that he wasabool
to eftabliOi an independent and mighty empire. The bay of Chefapeak vH
difcovered in 1607, and the firft lafling lettlement was founded at Jair
Town in modem Virginia. Captain Smith who afterwards publilhd

TIaklajt.

t Robertfon's America, iv. V),

AME'RICA.

53i

an account of his voyages, difplayed remarkable fpirit and enterprize;
yet the colony- was about to return to Englanid when Lord Delawajr ar-
rived in j6io ; and though he remained only a Hiort time, yet'his prudent
condiift fifmly ellablilhed the fettlement. The fubfequent events would
be tedious to detail, but the following table, extra£led from Mr. Morfe's
work, will fupply the chief epochs.

Hmes of places,

Quebec
Virginia
Newfoundland
New York \
New Jerfey J
Plymouth -

'"',■

tVhen fettled.

iGo8.

Juoe lo, 1610.

June, 1610.

about 1 6 14.

1620.

By whom.

H -;c

■I i'T t.

New Hampfhire

Delawar
Peniifylvania '
Maffachufetf's Bay

Maryland
Coanedicut

Rhode ifland
New Jerfey

, .A

South Carolina
I Peiiofylvania

I North Carolina

I Georgia
Kentucky
Vermont

1623.

1627.
1628.

1633-
1664.

1699.

1682.

about 1728.

- 1732-

- 1773-
about 1764.

By the French. ,;.,. ;■-, ... ,, .,

By Lord Delawar. . , ,

By Governor John Grey, .s',,.. a

By the Dutch. ' -*'

By part of Mr. Robinfon's con-
gregation.
By a fmall EnglifK colony near the
mouth of Pifcataqua river.

By the Swcdes^nd Finlanders,

By Captain John Endicot and,

Company.
By Lord Baltimore, with a colony

of Roman Catholics.
By Mr. Fcnvvick at Saybrook,

near the mouth of Connefticut

nvor.

[Territory N.W.
of Ohio river.

'/, .,

1787.

Tenoaifee on the S. of Kentucky*

By Mr. Roger Williams, and hit
perfecuted brethren.

Granted to tlie Duke of York by
Charles IL, and made a diftin^
government andfettledfometiiu9
before this by the Engliih. . ^j,.^

By Governor Sayle.

By William Penn, with a colony
of Quakers.

Erected into a feparate govern*
ment ; fettled before by uie Cn-

By General Oglethorp. ,,^^
By Col. Daniel Boon.
By Emigrants from Conne£licuty
andother part&of New England.

By the Ohio and other companies.

' Having thus mentioned the progrefs of the Englifh fettlements, as in*
timateiy conneAed with the difcovery of the country, it may be neceflary
briefly to ftate the epochs of a few other remarkable difcoveriest rather
iinconnef^ed with thefe fettlements. In 1585 John Davis^ an experi-
jcnced navigator, vifited the wellern coaft of Greenlan4> and explorea the
narrow fea. abfurdly enough called Davis's Strait, which is as wide as the
Baltic. On another voyage he proceeded as far north as the iiland of
iiko, and (be oppofit^ ihores of Greenland, wh)cU be named London

M m 3 coaft*

^W^.u

*^'^'

i^%.

><),.,(» rH t.

554

AMERICA,

coaft. Ife aUb difcovered Cumberland ftrait } and upon the whole the
three vovages of this navigator are of great confeqiience. His fartheft
point of Afcovery appear* to have been Sanderfon's Hope, lat. 72'' }
whence turning to the weft he was impeded I9 fields of ice *.

In 1607* Hudfon made his firft voyage ; and is faid to have proceed,
cd along the eaftem coaft of Greenland as far as lat. 8aS but probably
not above lat. 8o°» or the fartheft extremities ofelpitzbergen. On his
\oyage of 1 610 Hudfon difcovered the Straits which bear his name } and
that mland fea* approaching the Baltic in fize, which has however been
called Hudfon's Bay.

In 1 61 6 fome public fpirited gentlemen fent Captain Bilot to attempt
^ N. W. pafTage, William Baffin failed with him as pilot : and this voy.
age is one of the moft Angular in the whole circle of geography, far ex.
ceeding the ytmpft ft retch of J)avis, they difcovered Horn Sound, Cape
dudley Diggs, Hakluyt Ifland, Sir Thomas Smith's Sound, Gary's
Iflands, Alderman Jones's Sound, and Sir James Lancafter's Sound ; all
of them totally unknown to any preceding or fucceeding navigator. Baf.
fin thus pretended that he had, in an inhmd and a narrow feaj proceed.
ed to the latitude of more than 78^ while Captain'Cook, the moft Ikilful
pf modem navigators, could not exceed 72°, in the open Ardic ocean,
and Davis himfelf was ftopped at 72°, in this very fea. It is remarkable
that no doubt feem» even now to be entertained concerning the exiftence
p{ Baffin's Bay ; while it is not improbable that he is merely a bold im^
poftor, who wiftied to recommend himfelf to his employers, by the pretence
<>f having impofed their names on grand and important features of nature,
and by nis numerous Soun(/tf to nave laid a icheme for drawing more
money from his protectors, for the inveftiffation of a N. W. paflage. Yet
it would feem that ftrong doubts prevailed even at the time^ for thefefup.
pofed difcoveries were entirely neglected.

Suppoiinc» that Baffin's Bay were difmifled from our maps, it i» pro*
bable tnat Greenland is a contmuation of the continent, and ipread, to the
W. about lat. 7jf° ; or it may be detached land, like New Holland, ex-
tending towards the pole. The general line of the Ar£lic fea in this quar-
ter, as feen by Mr. Hearne 1772> and Mr. Mackenzie 1789, is about lat.
70" ; and it is not improbable that at a little higher latitude it coalefces
with what is called Baffin's Bay ; in which cafe Greenland is a detached
land, and the country on the north of Hudfon*s Bay confifts of feveral
large iflands in the Arftic ocean.

The difcoveries of the Ruffians, and of Cook and Vancouver, feem to
Jhave completed thofe of the well em coafts of America | and ths jour.
neys Qf Hearne and Mackenzie have imparted iome idea of it«» coniines I
on the ArAic ocean.

PoPUtATJOK.] The general population of this immenfe continent has
|)een a (ubje^ of confidenible dilcuffion* fome having fuppofed that it
amounted to one hundred and fifty millions, while others infer that there
are only fifteen millions ; and the latter opinion feems to approach neareil
to the truth. The ridioMlous exaggerations of the old Sjpaniih authors
have fwelle^ villages to cities, and tnoufands to millions. The favages in
North America are thinly fcattered, as in the extremities of Afia, where a
thopfand families conftitute a nation. An American author, who hasex'l
amined the fubjeft with fome attention, obferves that the population otl
Britifh America does not exceed 200,009 ; and fuppofing the favages an
equal number, and the inhabitants of the Spanifh part of North Ani^rica

• See Foifter'i Voyages and Pifcoveries in theKorth, p. 998, &e.

iop>o<'^u

fecm to

thsjour.

t» coniinei I

itinent has
ed that it
that there
ichneareft

h authors

favagesii'l
where a I
ho has ex..
(ulation oil
favagejanl

h Amm

joo,oocJ

^~^* '*-">»'' -V-

•**>

■'■';'' ,;//.

jjnc J*> ./(TO fio tUt

y J.

yTS.'T'~^:s^:i::z^ ~^-zls::3

^^!^!rr;fe:.U ^^ia^ .U c^a^^f •^Jf^"^' \

r^ ^N

-• — >;>

iiiti'

v«s/-

vC"

'* >S'J.imkf

*-!

^^'1

*^>f '■ 1t*^»|^

' - - . - - ^„.,.

,Pl.ME.«.TA

•rK)iAS"~"

Jml-'"^

SlFtnV

,'l»'>OBA Cv

- AtmJ

'^^ */■ c/V* t> ^•«*'

, jvt»v«

Jt'ASTF.C.

tbodr S.J.I

G t^3

fej'rtiwV'''

c.ct

.>VW'*

rnipa

l^MfKWO

Ac II

Sir; .V x.aC

.^•CAMlV

% / Ai

01'.

lL%-»

^"R

r.ijBitf.'ir — r" ;a

Vi^-Mt.^^

I'l' 111 "i'lM .'llliilln (iiiy.p NlKp .Vi".
■li'.'iHu. f{o Vmlrii 1111,1 ^,1, ■■;■.• .IM"!' ifnil /.I'//././'.. / . » i/ ^Wii tt'fnitiy'"' />■•»;

100,000, thefe t

United States t(

The empire of Ik

fica,) from the c

four millions of t

Hence there are

contain more: a

America at twoi

other par^s are m

tants of South .

North America i

f As Mexico un

idded to five and

rifion ; while Sou

teen millions.

Since the public
ihis important fu
North America, <
(ion, it will be fee
not exceed three r
to two millions,
tight millions and
kaown to be mucf
.will be found to'b

'1 4

Bwndariet. — Origh

Boundaries.]

the Great, or PaciJ
the vicinity of Panai
ed as part of Nort
clearly afcertained j
W, of Hudfon's B
probably be difcove
may be fafely aflumt
7 jo', as marked
J*<:o flr. mileg ; mor
«;'ry of Alaflca to
Charles, will excew
land is united to
for inllancc, to Afu
creafcd.

Ohiqinal popul
Moptcd in the genei
W the aijcicut popula

P^A'K

/W'/'

AMERICA.IOM

535

)00>ooo, thefe together will amount to half a million. Suppofing th»
United States to hare five millions, there will' be five millions^ and a half.
Xhe empire of Mexico, ^ which he ought to have included in North Ame>
tica») from the enumerations made in fome provinces, probably contains
four millions of the native race, and about three millions of foreign extra£t.
Hence there are in Mexico feven millions. Peru and Chili can fcarcely
contain more : and he eftimates the other SpaniHi poflefliens in South
y^mericaat two millions^ with four millions for Brazil and Paraguay. The
other parts are moftly wide deferts } fo that he concludes that the inhabi-
tants of South America do not exceed t\7enty millions ; nor thofe of
North America five millions and a half*.

f As Mexico unqueftionably belongs to North America, feven millions
idded to five and a half will yield twelve millions and a half for that di-
vifion ; while South America, by the fame calculation, will contain thir-
teen millions.

Since the publication of this work farther confiderations have arifen on
Jtliis important fubjed. In the account of the Spanifii- dominions in
^Torth America, compiled from the mod recent and authentic informa<^
(ion, it will be feen that the whole inhabitants of all denominations can-
not excsed three millions, if an actual enumeration did not reduce theni
to two millions. Hence all North America cannot contain more than
eight millions and a half. The fettlements in South America are well
koown to be much lefs populous than New Spain, fo that fix nylHont
.will be found to be a mod liberal allowance for that portion.

NORTH AMERICA. '

Boundarui. — Original Population. — Languages. — Crtmate. — Inland SeOK
— Lttket. — Rivers. — Mountains,

« •« 'T^HIS divifion of the new continent is bounded on

1}0UNDABIES.J J^ ^,jg gjj^ j,y jjjg Atlantic: and on the weft by

the Great, or Pacific Ocean. On the foiith it is underftood to extend to
the vicinity of Panama, the province of Veragua being univerfally confider*
(d as part of North America. The northern Hmits have not yet been
clearly afcertained ; but as it is improbable that a flip of land, on tW^.
VV, of Hudfon's Bay, (hould extend far to the north, the limit may
probably be difcovered about f4° or 75. In the mean time 73 decrees
may be fafely aflumed ( whence to the fouthcrn boundary, about n. lat,
1' $o\ as marked in the map of Lacrux, there will be 64^ degrees, or
]8*o g. miles { more than 4500 Britifh. The breadth from the promon-
tory uf Alaflca to the extreme point of Lal>rador, or the Cape Bf St.
Charles, will exceed the length. If it (hould b« difcovered thnt Gretn-
laiid is united to the ar£tic lands of America, as Kamtfchatka is,
for inllancc, to Afla, both the length and breadth will be greatly cn^
creafcd.

Ohioinal population.] In purfuing the arrangement of topics, here
adopted in the gener»l difcription of a continent, the firit which occurs
j) the ancient population ^ but our knowledge uf.the American bnguagci

• Ctllendrr'* Krj, Ctc i;9t.

Mm 4 it

i^ik 44>m'

53<5

NORTH AMERICA.

is ftill fo \inp«irk&. that the fubjeft is involvedin great doubt«. None of
the native nations of America difplay the fmalleft trace of the oblique
eyes, atid other remarkable features by which the inhabitants of eaftern
Alia art" diftinguiflied. Far from this, Pallas, Lefleps, Tooke, and other
Ikilful inquirers, have pronounced that the Tecliuks and Koriaks un-
doubtedly proceeded from America, as they have not one Afiatic linea-
inent.

Language.] It is to be regretted tjiat neither in North nor South
America, have the languages been C(;mipared, analyfed, and clafTed, ji
- has been done with regard to the nuJtierous tribes fubjeft to Ruflia and
China. Upon one point only do inveftigators feem t6 be agreed, that
the friendly and helptefs people in the fartheft north, called likimos
by the German fettlers, and in the French mode of fpelling Efqui.
piauK, are the fame race with the Samoieds of Afia, and Laplanders of
Europe.

The curious queftion concerning the population of America can only
be duly examihed after the various dialeftS'have been compared with thole
of Africa J for to thofe df Europe, or Afia, they certainly bear no re.
femblance. To trace the population from the north of Afia, not to men.
tion the pofitivc contradiftion of fads, would be an unnecefTary reftriftion
of the fnbjpf), as the progeny of fo cold a latitude is ever fiiund thinly
fcattercd, f<?^'ble, and unenterprizing ; while if we confider the proximity
of Africa, and the many rop'per coloured nations which are there to be
found, tlunc will be little reafon to helitate concerning the progrefs rf
the Africans to America, aa well as to New Holland. This refource
alone remains ; for it has already been feenthat the language of the Ma-
lays, who extended theinfelves fo far to the eall of Alia, has no co.i.
iieftion with that of the Americans.

Piu)Oul:vsive tiEOGUAi'iiv.] The progrelTive geography ha« already
bten treated under the general head of America. Tlie northern aiM
central parts of this divilion are ftill imperfeftly known. The number of
immenfe lakes, a fmgular feature of North America, began gradunlly to
be difclofed by the French, in the 17th century. Thofe of Carver,
Ilearne, and Mackenzie, have added greatly to former difcoverics; but
of the weltern regions little is known, es^ccpt the (horcs,

Rklioiov.] The ruling religion of North America is the Chrlilian,
under varioss forms in the United States ; and the Roman. Catholic in
the Spanilh dominions, and among the French of Canada. That of
the native nations (liall be briefly confidcred in the account of the chief
tribes.

Ci.iMATK.] The climate of North America is extremely various, a«
may be conceived in a region extending from the vicinity of the equator
to the ardic circle. In general the heat of fummcr, and the cold of win.
tor, are more intcnfe than in moft parts of the ancient continent. Near
Hndfqii's Bay Farenheit's thermometer has rifen in July to 85, and funk
in January to 45 below o. The predomivr.it winds are here from the
well 5 and the Irvcrell cold is from the N.W. The middle pro\ince8 biv
remarkable for the utdleadinefs of the weather, particuLirly the quick
tranlitionj from heat to cold. Snow falls plentifully in Virginia, but fch
dom li !« above a day or two \ yet after a mild, or even warm day,
.fames river, w^ere it is two or three miles in breadth, has in one night
been clothed with ice, (n as to be palTed by travellers. Such fnrprifn g
alterations fetin to pr»X'eed from the fudden change of the wind to the
N.W. The provinces i)f South Carolina and Florida arc fubj(i\ to
uur<ilTerable hvut, furious wiurlwiudsi hurricane»| trcmcnduus thunder,

an«l

NORTH AMERICA.

537

and fatal lightnings ; and the fudden changes of the weather are alike
pernicious to the human frame.

Fe^ opportunities have yet arifen for accurate accounts of the climate
in the weilern parts of North America. That of California feems to be
in general moderate and pleafant, though fomewhat incommoded by the
heat of fummer. In lat. 59'' the land has a moft barren and wintery ap-
pearance, even in June : the gloom is increafed by frequent fogs, and the
glaciers feero perpetual *.

Inland SEAS.] Among the inland feas of North America may be
mentioned the gulfs of Mexico, California, and St. Lawrence; with Hud- ■
fon's Bay, or rather Hudfon's Sea, and what '8 called the ftrait of Davis,
which is probably a fea of communication between the Atlantic and the
ardic oceans. The exiilcnce of Baffin's Bay is doubtful, as already
(hewn ; but there are feveral lakes of fo great a fize that they deferve to
be diltinguiflied by the name of feas, particularly lakes Superior, Mi-
chigan, and Huron, which conllilute one piece of water, about 560 miles
in length ; and the great Slave Lake in the north is laid down as about
120 B. miles in length.

Of all theie feas the gulf of Mexico is the moft celebrated, as lying in
a mod favourable climate, and preferiting at its entrance that grand arclii-
pelago of North American iflands called the Welt Indies. From this
gulf a Angular current fcts towards the N.E. ; this current, called the gulf
itream, patles to the banks of Newfoundland, and is fuppofcd to proceed
from the accumulation of waters by the trade wind. It is diftinguifhed
from rt^-^f parts of the ocean by the gulf weed ; is eight or ten degrees
wanr.i , >- fparkks in the night ; and when it arrives in cool latitudes
produce fogs.

The i ■■] . ..f (bore prefents the gulf of Cahfornia, which feems an
eftuary of two large rivers. The jealous filence of the Spaniards con-
cerning their American pofTtflions affords but few materials for a proper
illuftration of their geography. The gulf of St. Lawrence is the well
known elluary of a river of the fame name, generally frozen from t)e~
cember to April. This noble gulf is ctofed by the ifland of Newfound-
land, and by numerous fand banks, particularly what is called the Great
Bank. This celebrated filhmg Uation is more than 400 miles in length,
by about 140 in breadth; the water being from aa to 50 fathoms, with
a great fwell and frequently a thick fog. The chief fi(hery begins on the
loth of May, and continues till the end of September; the greatell number
of cod fifh, taken by a iingle fifhernian, being twelve thoufand, but the
average is fevcn thoufand : the largeft liih was four feet three inches in
length, and weighed fcrty-fix pounds j. More than 500 Englifh veflols
commonly iiOi on the bank ; and the number ufed fontetimes to he (quai-
led by that of the French, who had formerly a fettlement in the neigh-
bouring ille of C. pe Breton.

There are alfo great filheries on the banks which He off th^ coafls of
Nova Scotia, particularly on that called Saddle Ifland Bank, or rather
from the French SabU, the Ifle of Sand, which is in the (hapc of a bow,
about eight leagues in length, with a narrow pond of fea water in the
middle, filled every tide by a narrow inlet.

liudfon Sea may be comldcred as extending from the entrance of Hud-
fon Strait, to its wellern extremity, that is from long. 65 W. to long.
9J , or thirty degrees, which in lat. 60' will be 900 g. miles, or about
JOJO Britilh, exceeding the Baltic in length as well as breadth. The

* Lt Puoufr, il. cr.

t Pvnntnt, A Z. cccvli,

fhorci

.. '"

wm ^

V 41

'l ,. Si . i,

IMt

i'y'

fiS

NORTH AMERICA.

(hores are generally rocky and precipitous, and the climate is almoft tlie
perpetual abode of winter, the hot weather in June being biief though
violent. This fea is far from abundant in fiHi, but the common whale i^
found ; and the Beluga, or white whale, is taken in confiderable numbers
in June, when the rivers in the'fouth have difcharged their ice. X'Vge
llur?eons are alfo caught near Albany. The large traA of territory on
the louth of this fea is the property of the Hudfon's Bay Company, wWe
chief profits are derived from furs. This fea has been repeatealy explored
for a N.W. paflage, perhaps as little to<be expend as a pswDige from
the Baltic into the Ar^lic ocean, or the Euxine. Chefterneld inlet is a
Angular flrait ftretching far to tiie weft, but terminates in a magnificnt
lake of frefh water ; communicating with this fea by what may be called
a broad river, the adjacent land being level, rich in pafture and abound,
ing with deer.*. But it is probable tnat in the N.E. Hudfon Sea opens
into the Ardic ocean> where the perpetual ice prefents a complete barrier
to commercial views.

The Gulf or Sea of Davis may be confidered as part of the Sea of
Hudfon, and probably joins the Ar£tic ocean. What is called Baffin's
Bay is laid down as extending from 46* W. long, to 94°, which, fup.
pofing the deerees only 16 g. miles, would yield abngth of 768 g. miles;
and the breadtn on the weft (ide is reprefented as little inferior. As this
fea is perhaps wholly imaginary, it is unneceflary to enlaree on the fub.
jeA : and it Jhall only be obferved that the weft coaft of Greenland hu
not been explored beyond lat. 72°, or Sanderfon's Hope, and an old
Danifli fettlement called Opernevig. In the midft of Baffin's Bay many
maps prefent a large traA called James Ifland.

As in the general defcription of Afia, not only the Cafpian Sea, but
thofe of Ard and Baikal have been commemorated, fo the vaft lakes,
above mentioned, may here be confidered as detached inland (eas.

Lakes.] The lakes Superior, Michigan, and Huron, in this point of
view, form one large inland fea, which might be called the fea of Canada,
or of Huron. This expanfion of water, as already mentioned, is about
560 miles in length, and more than 180 at its greateft breadth : according
to the French charts that part of this fea, which is called Lake Supe.
rior, is not lefs than i coo miles in circumJFerence. The greater part of
the coaft feems to confift of rocks and uneven ground, like thofe of the
fea of Baikal. The water is pure and tranfparent; and the bottom
generally compofed of large rocks. There arc feveral iflands, one of
which, called Minong, is about 60 miles in length. More than thirty
rivers fall into this lake, fome of them of confiderable fize, but the geo<
graphy is far from being perfe^. The banks of a river on the N.W.
abound with native copper. The chief iiih are fturgeon and trout : the
latter being cauffht at all feafons, and faid to weigh lirom twelve to fifty

Sounds f . This part of the Sea of Can^a opens into the lake Huron,
y the ftraits of St. Mary, about 40-mnes in length, and in fome places
only one or two miles in breadth { with a rapid towards the N.W. ex*
tremity, which may however be defcended by canoes, and the profpe^ts
are here delightful. The ftorms on this large expanfe of water arc as
dangerous as thofe on the ocean, the waves breaking more quick, and run*
ning nearly as high. The circumference of that part called Lake Huron
is faid to oe about 1000 miles. Another (hurt ftrait leads into the third
lake called MicHiaAN, alfo navigable for fhips of any burthen. When
the population of North America ihall have dittufed itfeif towards the well,

* rcansot, A. Z. ccxv.

ri t Murfe, 197.

(hefo

NORTH AMERICA.

535

thefe lakes may become the feats of flouriihing cities, and of arts and
fciences now unknown in Eurojpe. Their latitude correfponds with that
of the Black Sea, and the gulf of Venice ; nor are the rigours of the
Baltic here to be apprehended. From the defcriptions it does not appear
that thefe kllkes are ever impeded with ice.

The lake of Winnipeg or Winipic may alfo well afpire to the name of
an inland fea * : but it yields confiderably to the great Slave lake or rather
fea, a recent difcovery, from which Mackenzie's river extends its courfe
to the Ar£):ic ocean. The Slave fea, according to Arrowfmith's maps,
1} aboat 200 miles in length by 100 at its ereateft breadth. The geo-
graphy of this lake is rather imperfed ; and it is not improbable that
other large lakes mav be found in the weilern regions of North America,
which remain unexplored.

The fmaller lakes fhall be briefly dcfcribed in the diviilons of territory
to which they belong.

Rivers.] In the ancient continent the rivers and mountains are ufually
confined within the limits of fome great (late, to wliich of courfe the de-
fcription becomes appropriated. But in America thefe features are on fo
great a fcale that they pervade immenfe territories, divided among diftinft
nations, whence it would be difficult to aiTign a jiift arrangement. The
river of An^azons, for example, purfues a long courfe in Spanifh Ame-
rica, and an equal extent tlirough the Portuguefe territory. The river
Miififlippi, or rather Miifouri, belongs in part to the American States
and in part to Spain. Amidlt this uncertainty, it feems preferable to
defcribe the chief rivers and mountains under the general heads of North
and South America,

Length of courfe feems univcrfally and juftly confidered as the chief
didindion of a river, in which point of view the Miififlippi is the mod dif-
tingui(hed among thofe of North America ; its fource having alreadf
been traced to three fmall lakes above lat. 47°, and it enters the feain
lat. 20", after a comparative courfe of about 1400 B. miles. Nay of
late the fources of the Miflburi (the chief ftream) have been detefted
about 600 B. miles more remote. The account of this noble river (hall
be tranfcribed from a recent fvilem of American geography, as the au«
thor mult have had feveral opi/ortuiiiticii of being well informed.

<' The Mifliifippi receives the waters of the Ohio and Illinois, and
their numerous branches from the eaft ; and of the MifFouri, and other
rivers from the weft. Thefe mighty ilreams united are borne down
with increalTng majefty, through vull forcds and meadows, and difcharged
j )to the guir of Mexico. 1 he great length and uncommon depth of
this river, and the exccfllve muddincfs and falubrious ouaUty of its
waters after its jimdlion with the Milfuuri, are very fingular. The di*
Kdion of the channel is fo cruokt-d, that from New Orleans to the
mouth of the Ohio, a diitance which does not exceed 460 miles in a
ftraight line, is about 865 by water. It may be ihorteiied at lead 2^0
miles, by cutting acrufs eight or ten necks of land, fume of which arc
uot thirty yards wide. ,

** In the fpring floods the Miflifllppi is very high, and the current fo
ftrong, that it is with difficulty it can be afcended ; but this difadvantage
is remedied in fome meafure by eddies, or counter currents, which are
generally fouiid in the bends dole to the banks of the river, and affift the

* Acconliiis |o Mr. Markenzie, p. Ixit. th!i lake (li(char;*c<i iifvlf into HucUbn's Ikf ,
Ity the river Nelfoii, ^ii cluiiipiliun of ll^ £<||(kii|d)»wiu. Hw ^ruwfmitli't map of N.
Aiiic|k«| edtuuu itod.

•fceoding

r.rj

m^.

1^!,

■j!

1 II

\i lU-

■^il!

1;.
(I

,.ui4 ■ /<8.j.*'

54©

NORTH AMERICA.

afcending boats. The current at this feafon defcends at the rate of about
five miles an hour. In autumn, when the waters are low, it does not run
fafter than two miles : but it is rapid in fuch parts of the river as have cluf.
ters of iflands, fhoais, and fand banks. The circumference of many of
thefe flioals being feveral miles, the voyage is longer, and in fome parts
more dangerous than in the fpring'. The merchandize ncceffary for the
commerce of the Upper Settlements, on or near the MiflKTippi, is con.
veyed in the fpring and autumti in batteaux, rowed by eighteen or
twenty men, and carrying about forty tons. From New Orleans to
the Illinois the voyage is commonly performed in eight or ten weeks. A
prodigious number of iflands, fome of which are or great extent, inter.
fperfe that mighty river. Its waters, after overflowing its banks below
the river Ibberville on the eaft, and the river Rouge on the weft, never
return within them. again, there being many outlets or ftireams by which
they are conduced into the bay of Mexico, more efpeciallv on the well
fide of the Mifllflippi, dividing the country into numerous iflands. Below
the Ibberville the land begins to be very low on both fides of the river,
acrofs the country ; and gradually declines as it approaches nearer to
the fea. The ifland of New Orleans, and the lands oppofite, are to all
appearance of no long date, for in digging ever fo little below the furface
you find water, and great quantities of trees.

«' The nearer you approach the fea this truth becomes more ftriking.
The bars that crofs mott of thefe fmall channels, opened by the current,
have been multiplied by means of the trees carried down with the ftreams ;
one of which, uopped by its roots or branches in a fliallow part, is fuf.
ficient to obltru^t the paflage of thoufands more, and to fix them at the
fame place. Aftonifliing coUeftions of trees are daily feen in pafling be-
tween the Balize and the Miflburi. No human force is fujfficient to re.
move them, and the mud carried down by the river ferves to bind and
cement them together. They are gradually covered, and every inunda.
lion not only extends their length and breadth, but adds another layer to
their height. In lefs than ten years time, canes, fljrubs, and aquatic tim.
ber, grow on them, and form points and iflands which forcibly fliift the
bed of the river.

«» Nothing can be aflerted with certainty rcfpefting the length of this
river *. Its fource is not known, but fuppofed to be upwards of three
thoufand miles from the fea as the river runs. We only know that from
St. Anthony's falls, in lat. 45°, it glides with a pleafant clear current, and
receives many large and very extenfive tributary (Ireams, before itsjunc.
tion with the Miflburi, without greatly incrcafing the breadth of the
Mifllflippi, though they do its depth and rapidity. The muddy waters
of the Miifouri difcolour the lower part of the river, till it empties into
the bay of Mexico. The Mifl'oun is in faft the principal river, being
longer, broader, and deeper than the Mifllflippi, and aifords a more
extenfive navigation. It has been afcended by French traders about
12 or 1300 miles; and from the depth of the water, and breadth
of the river at that diftauce, it appeared to be navigable many milei
farther.

" The flime which the annual floods of the river Mifllflippi leave oa
the furface of the adjacent fliores may be compared with that of the Nile,
which dcj^fits a fimilar manure, and for many centuries paft hag infurcd

• The MirTifliiipi has recently liecn rx(jIorfH by Pike to ilt fource, ■iid a map piililiftn-d
l>y the Ainericnn (loveriitniut. TIte account of tlic journey liM beta publiflied in Ix)iKlon
in liie I rcfcnt ycu.

th9

NORTH AMERICA.

541

the fertility of E^ypt. When its banks fliall have been cultivated as the
excellency of its loil and temperature of the climate deferve, its popula-
tion will equal that of any other part of the world. The trade, wealth,
and power of America may at fome futiure period depend, and perhaps
centre, upon the Miiliflippi.

« The Ohio is a moft beautiful river. Its current gentle, waters clear,
andbofom fmooth and unbroken by rocks and rapids, a fingle inftance
only excepted. It is one quarter of a mile wide at Fort Pitt ; and at
its junction with the Mifliflippi neither river is more than 900 yards
acrofs*."

The length of the Ohio, with all its windings, from Fort Pitt to its
iun£iion with the Mifliflippi amounts to 11 88 miles. The inundations
commonly begin with April, and fubfide in July. A veflel drawing
twelve feet water might fafely navigate from Pittfburg to the fea. Two
great rivers unite to form the Ohio, namely the Monongahela, and the
Allegany, both of them fubfervient to navigation. . ■*

From the preceding ample dofcription it appears that, >o, ' :..g afide the
capricious dirtinftions of the favage tribes, the Mifiburi mull be regarded
as the chief river which conftitutes what is called the Mifliflippi. Mea-
fured on the fame merely comparative fcale which has been adopted
to give a general idea of the len^rth of the rivers in Europe and Afia,
the Miflbiiri or Mifliflippi will be about 2000 miles in length. The
great river of St. Lawrence is far inferior, being chiefly remarkable
for its breadth. In South America the'Maranon, or river of Amazons,
meafured on the fame comparative fcale, will be found to be about 2300,
and the Rio de la Plata about 1900. The Kian Ku exceeds the Mif-
fouri and rivals the Maranon, which laft is probably alfo rivalled by the
Ob. Some deceptions have however arifen on this curious fubjedt, as the
large rivers in America have been computed by a£lual navigation of the
whole, or a part, in which every winding is taken into the account ; while
the length of thofe in Alia has been merely afiiimed from the general ap-
pearance in maps, without due attention to the innumerable deviations.
A favourable climate and other circumltancea render the American rivers
more navigable, the Ob being impeded by ice, and the Kian Ku by the
alpine rocks of Tibet.

The noble river Tof St. Lawrence is univerfally regarded as the fecond
in North America, being not lefs than 90 miles wide at its mouth, and
navigable for ftiips of the line as far as Quebec, a dillance of 400 miles
from the fea. Near Quebec it is five miles in breadth, and at Montreal
from two to fourf . Though there be fome rapids, yet this grand river
may be confidered as navigable to Kinglton and the lake Ontario, 743
miles from the fea.

The other chief rivers in North America are the Saflcalhawin, the Atha*
bafca, the Unjiga or Mackenzie's river ;{;, the Rio del Norte, which flows
into the gulf of Mexico; that of Albany, which join» Hudfon's Bay:
Nelfon river and Churchill river are a'fo cunfiderable llreams which flow
into that fea ; but their geography is far from being perfed. The lame
obfervation muft be extended to the Oregan, or great rivi-r of the weft,
which, conlined by a chain of mountains, runs S., till by a wcllern bend
it join the Pacific. But the difcovery of the weltern regions of America
may difclofe fome co.iliderable llreams in that quarter.

The travels of Major Pike have already diiclofed the long courfe of

• Morfe's Ameriittn (ieograpliy.

^ Se« the utkl« Native Tribes for fkrther deuil&.

t WvIJ, 11. id, 8V0.

.Mill

I'M

' 1:

'?!:. ? ^

.« •

tkt

NORTH AMERICA.

the Red rivef of Louiflana, which rifes in the mountains on the N.£. of
New Mexico. The river Akenfa is alfo an important ftream<

Mountains.] The mountains of North America are far from rivaU
ling the Andes in the fouth. Some irregukur ranges pervade the ifthmu»,
but it feems mere theory to confider them as connedled with the Andes
as they have neither the fame charadler nor direAion. In the ifthmus
there are alfo feveral volcanoes ; but the natural hiftory of Spanifh Ame-
rica is extremely imperfe£^.

The centre of North America feema to prefent a vaft fertile plain,
watered by the Miffouri and its auxiliary ftreams. On the weft, fo far
as dlfcovered, a range of mountains proceeds from New Mexico in a
northern direAion, and joins the ridge called tue Stoney Mountain^,
which extend to the vicinity of the *. ftic ocean. The Stoney Mountains
are faid to be about 3500 feet above their bafe, which may perhaps be
tooo feet above the fea. In general, from the accounts of navigators who
haie vifited this ccaft, it feems to refemble that of Norway, being a wide
sJpine country of great extent ; while the (hore prefents innumerable
creeks and iflaads. This trad, from the Stoney Mountains and Mac.
kenzie's river weftwards to the fource of the Oregan aad Beering's ftrait,
may perhaps contain the higheft mountains in North America, when
compKtely explored by the eye of fcience. On the north^eaft, Green<
kuid, Labrador, and the countries around Hudfon Sea, prefent irregular
malfes covered with eternal fnow, with black naked peaks, refembling in
form the fpires of the Alps, but of far inferior elevation, mountains ge*
nerally decreafing in height towards the pole.

The mofl celebrated mountains in North America are thofe called the
Apilachian, paifing through the territory of the United States from the
S.W. to the N.E. According to the beft maps, they commence on the
north-of Georffia* where they give fource to many rivers running fouth
to the gulf of Mexico ; and to the Tenaflee and others running north.
There are^ feveral collateral ridges, as the Iron or Bald Mountains, the
WUte Oak Mountains, and others ; the exterior (kirt on the N.W.
being the Cumberland Mountains. The Apalachian chain thence ex>
tends through the weftern territory of Virginia, accompanied with its
collateral ridges, the breadth of the whole bemgr often feventv miles, and
paoceeds through Pennfylvania, then pafles Hudfon river; and afterwards
rifes to greater elevation, but feems to expire in the country of New
BrunfwicK.

The Apalachian chain nay thus extend about 900 g. miles, a length
unrivalled by any European mountains, except the Norwegian Mfi.
In no chain perhaps are the collateral ridges more diftinfl ; and a natu>
lalift would at once pronounce that the central, or higheft, muft be gra.
nitic, the next fchiftofe, and the exterior belts calcareous. The granite
feems commonly to confift of white feltfpar, blueifli or rather pellucid
quartz, and black mica* The fchiftofe band, generally metaUiferous
in other regions, here prefents copper ore ; and in Canada lead and filver
are faid to have been difcovered. The lime'ftone contains, as ufual, many
petrifafiions. The height of the chief fummits does not appear to be

{>recifely afcertained, but probably does not exceed 3000 feet above the
lea t and they are often clothed with forefts.

The late travels of the duke de Rochefoucalt in North America pre*
(ent fome valuable information concerning the orology *. The primitive
calcareoui rock is mingledi in veins or banks, with the granitic. Near

«*»■

f Sc« alfo Um Jo«sn^ d« Mioet| Moi 44^

Fbiladcl.

:m:-;^KORTH AMERICA.

S4i

Philadelphia large pieces of talc appear, inftead of mica. There are alfo
veins of hornblrade and quartz» in the pofition of metallic vrins. It is a
remarkable feature in the mineralogy that the granitic mountains ap-
proach neareft to the fea, while at a ?reatdr diftance the rocks are cal-
careous; and the red primitive limenone is fometimes covered with
breccia, and ar^laceous fchillus. The lakes of Upper Canada are
furrounded with calcareous rocks ; while in Lower Canada, from Mon-
treal to the fea, the granite predominates *. Towards New York and
BoftoR} the rocks are of a foft granite interfperfed with limeftone and
fchiftus ; but towards Carolina and Florida the granitic mountains are
at a confiderablc diilance from the fea, which feems gradually to have
retired. This obferving traveller is of opinion that tne higheft moun-
tains in North America do not exceed 4 or 5000 feet.

The mountains in the ifthmtis, as well as thofe in the weftern part of
North America, are certainly of far fuperior elevation. But of the ifth-
mu8, the kingdom of Mexico, and California, the natural hiftory aAd
geography are far from being clearly illuftrated. In the province of
l)anen, the Andes, according to the beft maps, feem to expire in the
ridge called Sierra Tagargona, which may be faid to be loft in the fea
on the weft of the guU of Darien. On the weft of that province a
coafiderable chain paffes north and (buth, which may be regarded as a
aatural divifion between the two great portions of America. This
chain is called the Sierra de Canatagua. The ridges in Veragua alfo run
N. and S., and- on the weft of that province is the volcano of Varu.
Of the natuwe and height of the mountains in Mexico there is no par-
ticular account. Not far from Vera Cruz, Chappe D'Auteroche af-
ccnded a mountain of great height, which feems to have been volcanic f %
aad he adds that the mountain of Orifaba is faid to be the hieheft in
that region, the fnowy fummit being viiible from Mexico at the diftance
of twenty leagues.

1 ■

mmmmmmM

■i ..-

•}c St \ dsrr.iti.

THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

,' CHAPTER I. ^

HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Dhyions.—-Boundearies,'-'Hifiortcal Epoch*

U 1 'T^HESE fertile and flourifliing ftates have by fome

* '-^ X writers been regarded under two divifions, the north-
em and the fouthern, but this clafiification is reprobated by patriotic
Americans as containing the feeds of political mvifion. Others have
divided them into northern, middle, and fouthern: while others de-
nominate all thofe that border on the ocean Atlantic ftates, and the
othen inland ftates. But a general table can itlon« be liable to no
objeftioni.

* The cauraA of Niigan (mill over » fine white calcareoui fiteltoae.
t Voyai* to CaUferui*, p, as. #ec SjwnUh doBOflivM.

Diftria

I'i '

^t : i

-'**,*,fc fit

544 THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

Di(lri£l of Maine - - - - - « <»nj 151,719*

Vermont L,*, .>f - '54»4<>5

New Hampfhire - - - - - - . - 183,858

Maflachufets - - . . . . . 422,84c

Rhode Ifland • • • - • > - 69,122

Conne6iicut - • • • - - - 2 c 1,002

New York - - >: ^'fl'r f??l'j. - - - 586,203

New Jerfejr - - - - - - - 211,149

Pennfylvania - - - - - - - 602,365

Delaware - ... - .-. . 64,273

Maryland * 349,692

, Virginia - 886,149

Kentucky I - - 220,960

■ North Carolina ....... 478,103

South Carolina - - . - . . . 345,491

Georgia -- 162,684

Tennaffee - ---.. .. 105,602

- P^^° • 45.365

, JLouiuanaf .......

a ■ 4-#''«*^sf- /Jtf^ ' • -s.l^t ^ •

b 4y, &t4* • 5>29i>i47

The population was alfo thus eftimated, under another form, in 1801,
and muft have eonfiderably increafed fince that period.

Free Free ■• Total.

I'slUfi Wli'ite Males. White Females.

Under to years of age - - 7i3»825 725,768 i»439,593
10 and under 16 - . 3431205 323,465 666,670

■ ,,.;,. 16 and under 26, including

heads of families - - 393,074 401,811 .794,88;

26 and under 45, ditto 432,531 ''405,485 838,016

45 and upwards ditto 262,785 354,727 517,512

y*!!*^*"* ]! * " **^ •*— ■^^■■^— ^^^ ■ ■■■" ' — — -^

2,145,4202,111,256 4,256,676
^ All other free perfons, except Indians not taxed - - i°9)335

Total Whites 4,366,01!

Slaves 894,452

* ■■ ■; .1 >' rt..> , , ....

V ■ :, ...^ ■ .^-'= „_ ., 5.260,463

Boundaries.] The eaftem boundary is the Atlantic Ocean, and the
weftern the great river Miifilfippi, which is confidered as a limit uf Spanifh
America I . On the north} an ideal line, pervading the great lakes of

* Tho mimbcrs are from the Cenfus 1801, including tlw flavet, being the lad ecu-
meration whicb lias been made.

• f The inhabitants f>f LouiGana. are 4!i,n75, including 12,920 (laves. Arcount of
LouifiaQa, 1S04. Tlie diftri^A of Columbia, and the Miffiflippi and Indiana tinitorli^s
are* not included. I'he population of Upper Louifiana is only eOimated by Voiney at alH)ut
'2,!'00 peribns. The lianks ot the Miflouri are alrefdy roSpnized to.the <Uftance of shmu
forty miles above its junAion with the MiffifTippi by more than 3000 inhabitants, and \U
number is contiiiually increafitig. Mich. 119.

X Bui Ltutufiaua (fpt the SpanUh fcttkmeBts) is bow regarded as part of the United
States.
r. , •;*•. - • • • . ; -Canada,

UNITED STATES. |^

Canada* is continued along the river St. Lawrence to lat. 4^', not far to
the fouth of Montreal, when it pafles due eaft, and follows a chain of
mountains N. E. and afterwards diverges S. E. to the river St. Croix,
which falls into the bay of Fundi. On the fouth a line, merely arbitrary,
about lat. 31''', divides the United States from the Spanifti donainions of
Well and Eaft Florida,

The grcateft extent of the United Territory is from eaft to weft, in the
northern part, where it exceeds 1300 B. miles; and the line along the
(hores of the Atlantic nearly correfponds ; but the breadth from the
Canadian lakes to the fouthern limit, is about 1000 B. miles. The
fquare acres have been computed at 640 millions ; and thofe covered
with water being fuppofed 51 millions, there will remain 589 millipns of
acres. ''

Original population.] The original population of this extenfive
and flouriftiing country conlifted of feveral wild and rude tribes, whofe
denominations and memory have almoft periflied, but fome idea of their
manners (hall be given in defcribing the native nations. The progrefs of
the Englifh colonies has been already detailed ; and there are numeroua
defcendants of the Germans, Dutch, and Swedes, who formed conftder-
able fettlements in this region. After the firft ineffeftual colony planted
by Ralegh, the moft important" events in the progreffive geography were
the difcoveries of the noble bays of the Chefapeak and Delawar, while
the northern lakes, and many other grand features of nature, were dif-
clofed by the French fettlers in Canada*

Historical epochs.] Among the chief hiftorical epochs of the
United States muft be claffed their refpeftive origins, as above explained ;
together with the leading occurrences in that conteft which terminated
in the independence of the United States.

1. The Stamp Adt, pafTed in 1765, is confidered as the firft attempt
to raife a fupply of Britilh revenue from North America ; but by the
linn oppofition of the colonies it was repealed in 1766. Similar attempts
of a more oblique lature were alike unfuccefsful ; and in 1770 the duties
were taken off, except threepence a pound on tea.

2. In 1775 an armed fchooner ftationed off Rhode tfland was burnt
by the Americans, the firft aft of open outrage.

3. The "tea fent by the Eaft India Company to the port of Bofton
was thrown into the fea. This led to what is called the Bofton Port Bill,
March 1774, and the a A for altering the government of Maffachufetts

Bay-

4. Deptltics met at Philadelphia, 2^th Odober 1774, conftituting the ,
firii Congrefs.

5. Other adls of the Britifli. parliament, 1775, inflamed the difcontentSf
and the civil war commenced with a fkirmifli between the Britifh troops
and American militia at Lexington. The battle of Bunker's Hill, or
rather Breed's Hill, was fought on the 17th June, 1775.

6. On the 4th of July 1776, the American congrefs publiftied their
folemn declaration of independence.

7. On the 30th January 1778, the king of France concluded a treaty
with the United States.

8. The treaty of peace, 30th November 1782, by which the indepen-
dence of the United States was folemnly acknowledged, after a ftruggle
of feven years.

9. The conftitution of the United States having been found imperfe£t|
a new plan was fubmitted to the feveral ftates and received their approba-
tion. On the 3otb of April 1789, George Waftiington was inaugurated

N n prefident

Imfiff^Bnl

wmH|| li

mK^i

*' '^ sK^^b 3m^fr

Hwim^^^^p ' *

"^'MH^SS'

jiMH :;'

'^'^IBh

SkUmH^Wt *''

|4«

UNITED STATES'.

prefident (^ th6 United States. The refignation and death of that illuf^
trious man) and the (hort conteft with the venal directory of France, art
incident! vrhiph are frefli ia tlie menoory of every reader.-

CHAPTER II.

POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

RtBgim* — Governnuni. — Lavtt, — Pcfntlation* -—Army* — Nav^, ..
Rtvenuct-'^ Political Importance and R€lations,

— , npHE refigion of the United States of America is the

RBLIGION.J Jl^ reformed fyftem of Chriftianity; but every feft ii,
liberallv treated with univerfal toleration, or rather equal indeperdcncc
It wowd be infinite to enumerate the various denominations, tenets, and
new doftrines, which prevail in the feveral dates ; but from the follow.
ing account of thofe in MaiTachufetts and P^nnfylvania, fome judgment
may be formed of the whole. Mr. Morfe enumerates the ieds in Ma0k>
Hihiuetts m the following order i

Denominations.

Congregationalifts *,

Ba^tifts,

Epifcopaliani,

Friends, or Quakers,

Prefbyterians^

Univerfalifts,

Roman Catholics,)

NumHtr or

Suppofednuml)no{!

Congrcgationi.

etch denomiiiatioDt

400

277,600

58,296

11,104.

1 ■

• ,'

6,94a

2,776

, i>388

694

517

358,795

In Philadelphia the places of public worihip are thus numbered :

The Friends, or Quakers, ^

The Presbyterians and Seceders, 6
The Epifcopalians, - 3

The German Lutherans,^ 3

The German Calviaifts, i

The CathoUcs, . 4

The Swediih Lutherans, 1
The Moravians,. - t
The Baptifts, . i

The Univerfal Baptifts, i
The Methodifts, - i
The Jews^ . 1

GovBRMMENT.I The government of the Utiited States is vetted, by
the conilitution-ori789, m a prefident and two councils. The prefident
is chofen for the term of four years. — The fenate or fuperior council con.
fifts of two fenators from each itate, chofen every fix years. The houfe
of reprefentativei i^eleded every fecond year, and is not to contain more
than two hundred nnembers, each reprefenting, according to the progrefs
of the population, from 55,000 to 50,000 inhabitants. The legiflative
power is vetted in the two councils : while the executive is lodged with
the prefident ; and a vice^prefident is alfo chofen to fupply his place, on
any emervcncy. The prefident commands the army and navy, and may
pardon oSences, except in cafe of impeachment : he makes treaties with

* ThefSp are nodente Independents, who fuppofe that each rongregatloo poHefiVs com*
fU\$ sodefiajEkle power, but f«AS» ftriA amity with otbci eoiigregauoui.

UNITED STATES.

547

tlie confent of two-thirds of the fenators, who are alfo to advife in tht
, appointment' of embafladors. Particular regulations are formed to pre*
iretit any diilin£t (late from alTuming offices which belong to the com<<
munity, fuch as forming treaties, iffuing letters of marque, and the like
t6t9 of independent fovereignty, whioh might endanger the uflion of th«
wrhole. The judicial power is lodged in one (upreme court, and in fuch
in^i.rior courta as the congrefs may ordain, the judges holding their of-
fices during their good betiavioiir. Each province has alfo its peculiar
government, cuniilHng commonly of a fenate and houfe of reprefenta*
tives, anntially chofen.

Laws.] The laws feem in general to correfpond with thofe of Eng^
land, Itanoed down by their anceftors. Different ftates have alfo particular
ordinances and cufloms, which are permitted when they do not diilurb
the general concord. But a code of laws, to be held in univerfal obfer*
vance, might pfford a fair obje£t of ambition*

Population.] The population of thefe extenHve territories was for-
mally eftimated, by order of congrefs, in 1790, and found to be 3,930,000*
exclufive of the inhabitants N.W. of the Ohio, fuppofed to be 20,000.
It is inferred that the population is doubled every twenty years, in which
cafe the population may now amount to about fix millions. The number
«f flaves in 1790 was 697,647, and has probably been little increafedf
as many emancipations have taken place, and the flavo trade it; difcoia*
tenanced *.

Army ] A fmall military force is maintained for the fake of fupport*
ing public order, and upwards of five thoufand were raifed for three years,
for the defence of the firontiers. But a ftanding army is deemed incom-
patible vrith the republican government ; and the ftrength of the fl dLcv it
computed from the militia, which is ftated by Mr. Morfe at 7co,co:
Yet his mode of reafoning is vague and inconclufive ; and it would feein
more agreeable to the ufiial rules to eftimate the utmofl efle£tive force at
150,000, a number fufficieatly formidable (o fubdue the whole continent^
and to fet foreign invafion at defiance.

Navy.] The navy of the United States is ftill of lefs confequence,
though a few fhips were equipped during the recent (hort difpute with
France. In the courfe of a century or two, it is probable that the mari-
time fpirit of their progenitors will be difplayed, and that the American
fleet will rival any in Europe.

Revenue.] The revenue of the United States is derived fr(NB the du-
ties on imports and tonnage, and fome fmall taxes. This revenue is about
twelve millions of dollars f , the expenditure about fe "?n. The national
debt is fuppofed to amount to fixty millions of dolla. a The war with
the Indians, which terminated in 1795, is faid to have colt the States
one million of dollars yearly j and was certainly conduced with little
fpirit ordecidon, while in found policy, and at lefs expenfei it might
nave been terminated at one eflFort.

Political importamce.] The political vmportance of the United
States will depend, in a great meafure, upon the individual chara&er, as
the government is not fumciently iltrong to ufe coercion even for the ge-
neral profperity. The moft impartial travellers have been imprefled with
regret and adooiflunent at the fpirit of felfiflmefs and avarice, which too

* By the return of the puputaikm of the United States, printed at Wafliington 1603»
fro. the total wu 5,l73,3ia, the Haves being included, whofe number was 875,630.

t The dollar is equil to 4b. fid, fterling, Imlay, 18«, eftimates tlie American debt ft
ft^a mUliotu fierUngi aad the (\uvU bora an iiitcreft of about fia per ctot.

Nna . umYerfan/

'^t ,.. I

548

UNITED STATES.

univerfally prevails, and which cruflies or impedes every great or noble^
exertion. It is hbwever to be hoped and expefted that this charafter
will- not become indelible ; but that after the fathers have laid up a fuf-
ficient ftock of wealth,- their pofterity will divert their attention to more
fublime pu'rfuits. The war with the Indians, which ought to have im-
preffed all America with a deep fenfe of the power of the States, appears
to have been pallied by individual avarice, and a complete negligence of
national reputation. The equipment of a few frigates againft France was
alfo a mighty effort ; and the fum allotted for fix frigates fcarcely fupplied
three. The moll candid obferver, and even the warmeft udmirer of tlie
new republic, muft allow with regret that its political importance caii
only be weighed by pofterity.

CHAPTER III.

CIVIL CEOGRAPIIY.

Manners and Cujioms.— Language. — Literature. — UnlvetfitifS. — C/////. —
Edifices,-^ Roads.— Jyiland Navigation. — Manufactures and Commcne.

Manners and customs.]

THE manners and cuftoms of the in-
habitants of the United States may
be conceived to differ little from thofe of their Britifh ancellors, except in
a few local particularities. Travellers have however obfervcd, even in
Philadelphia, a want of urbanity, and a fpirit of coldnefs and referve,
which renders fociety melancholy. In general the common people fhew
their independent fpirit by furlinefs of behaviour, and a contempt of tiiat
intercourfe of trifling civilities, which render life amiable. — Various reli-
gious doftrines, fome of thera of very recent invention, fcem to tonfpir:
with the love of money, to throw an additional gloom over the charader.
The gay fcftivals of the ancient republicans, and the cheerful and happy
manners of the Swifs, feem equally unknown ; and in ofeiieral there is
little tafte for thofe amtifementfi which are connedted with the arts and
fciences. In fome provinces gaming is faid to be too prevalent : but the
deeped game confifts in felling unfettled lands at advanced prices: a
fpecies of (lock-jobbing which, like a MiHifTippi fcheme» ftimulates t)i«
avarice of many.

, Language.] On the termination of the war with England, the ran.
cour of a few propofcd the adoption of a new language ; and a wit rn.
commended the Hebrew. The Lnglifh however remains ; and is generally
fpuken with great purity, and free from provincial barbarifms. Yet tl>e
American writers lomctimes adc;]:t e.xprcUiuns- and idioms unknown to
the Britifh clalTics.

Literature.] The books publifhcd in Britifh America were chiefly
of a religious kind. But before the emancipation, Franklin had become
a difl'nguifhcd name in letters ; and many authors of confiderable merit
have fince arifen in the United States. Literary academies pubhfh their
tranfa^ticns ; while magazines and ncwfpapcrs contribute to the popular
diffufion of ufeful knowledge. Education feems alfo to attraA more and
more attention, and to be conducted in numerous feminarics with the mod
kudable care. In the northern provinces, called New England, tcbooli
are eftablifhed almoU ev«ry townfhip. Even the Catholics have a col*
lege in Maryland.

U DiVfiBilTlls ] In New York a college was founded, by an aA of

tbt

UNITED STATES.

549

the BritilTi parliament 1754, which is now called Columbia College, and

is faid to be frequented by more than one hundred ftudcnts. Naffau

Hall was founded at Prince Town, in New Jerfey, the ftudents being

eflimated at eighty. In 1782 another foundation, called Waftiington

College, arofe at Cheftertown in Maryland. Even in Tennaffee there is

a fociety for promoting ufeful knowledge, befideii an academy, with

many grammar fchools. Yale college in Connecticut, was founded in

1717, and rebuilt in 1750; maintainmg about 130 ftudents*. In Penn-

fylvania there are many literary focieties, particularly the American Phi-

lofophical Society, formed in 1769; and which has pubhihed in 1771

and 1786 two volumes of their tranfadtions. The Univerfity of Penn-

fylvania was founded at Philadelphia during the war ; and, being lince

united with the college, has become a refpeftable feat of learning. In

this province there are alfo Dickenfon College and Franklin College.

Harward Univerfity, in the province of Maflachufetts, was founded

1638, and is generally regained as tlie chief foundation in North

America. The univerfity of Georgia is at Louifville ; and fome other
provinces boaft of other colleges, or rather confiderable academies.
Thefe detached, inftitutior.s feem better calculated for the promotion
of knowledge, than one or two great univerfities. In New HampfhirCf
Dartmouth College was founded in 1 769, for the inftruftion of the
favages ; but has lince become an ample endowment for the youth of the
northern pnivinces.

Nor are the fine arts negle6lcd, for in the winter of i8d3, an academy
of arts was founded at New Yurk.

Cities.] With regard to fize and confequencc, the cities of the
United States may be thus arranged ; Philadcljjhia, New York, liofton,
Baltimore, Charleftown ; but in relation to commerce New York
precedes Philadelphia, and Charlellown ranks above Ba'timore. Be-
fore proceeding to a brief account of tliefe cities, it will be proper to
deferibe that of Waihington, the inleiided metropolis of the United
States :

«' The city of Walhington, in the territory of Columbia, was ceded by
the dates of Virginia and Maryland to the United States, and by them
eftabUfhed as the feat of their government, after the year iSoo. Thia
city, which is now building, Hands at thejundionof the rivers Patomak
and the eaftern branches, latitude _^8' 53' north, extending nearly tour
miles up each, and 'including a tratt of territory exceeded, in point of
convenience, fiilubrity, and beauty, by none in America. Within the
limits of the city are i. great number of excellent fprings ; and by dig-
ging wells, water of the bell quality may readily be had. liefides, tlie
never failing tlreams that now run through that territory may alfo be
Ciilleded for the ufe of the city.

'< The eafiern branch ia one of the fafoJl and moft commodious hnr-
bours in America, being fufficiently deep for the largeft (hips for about
four miles above its mouth, while the channel lies clofe along the bank
idjoining the city, and affords a large and convenient harbour. The Pato-
mik, although only navigable fur i'lnall craft, (excepting about half a mile
above the jiMidion of the rivers,) vvj'.l neverthclefs afford a capacious lum-
mcr harbour; as an immeiifc number of ihips may ride in the great chan-
nel oppofile to, and below, the city,

'* The grand avenues, and fuch llreetB as lead immediately to public
pliv.csi arc from 1 30 to 1 60 feet wide, and may bi: conveniently divided

' Nn3

into

SS9

UNITED STATiBS.

into foot ways, a walk planted with trees on each fide, and a paved way
for carriages. The other ftreets are from go to no feet wide*."

The banks of the Patomak prefent inexhaudible quairies of excellent
itee-lione, harder than that of Portland ; and at no great dirtance
arc found flate, paving-ltoney and lime-ftone, and it is foid excellent
coal.

The city of Philadelphia is fuppofed to contain about 50,000 inhabi.
tants, and was defigned by William Penn, the firft proprietor and fourder
of the colony called Pennfylvania, in 1683. The form is an oblong
fquare, extending about two miles eaft and weft between the rivers Dela<
war and Schuylkill, or rather on the wellern bank of the former river.
This city is neatly conftruAed, the chief ftreets being ftraight avenues
100 feet in breadth, paved with pebbles, and the foot-path with brick.
The charter of incorporation, granted by Pcnn in 1701, was Angularly
t'illocratic, being copied from that of Briftol in England ; but the
general alFemblyof the province, in 1789, formed a liberal plan; and
the gpvernment of the city, the prifons, &c. may now be regarded as
furpalling any in the world. There are many humane inftitutions, and
a large public library. The ami^Ie and tolerant chafader of the Qua.
kers, differed widely from that of the fanatic fettlers in New England :
at pref<^t they do not exceed one-fourth part of the inhabitants ; and
their averfion to the elegancies and luxuries of life is overcome by the
wifhes of the majority. Gay equipages are not rare in the flrcets of
Philadelphia, and the theatre begms to be frequented.

New York, the capital of the province of the fame name, is fituated on
a promontory at the mouth of Hudfon river, a noble and pi£lurefque
Ikream. The number of inhabitants in 1790 was 33,131, this city being
about two miles in length and four in circumference. It was greatly iQ*
jured during the war, but has fmce been enlarged and improved. The
chief edifice is the Federal Hall, a neat building of Grecian architeAure,
in which Wafliington was indalled prefident of the United States. Iq
commerce, New York isconiidered as the chief city in North America,
the harbour admitting fhips of any burthen. It is alfo the gayeft city,
and is thought to exceed Charleftown in South Carolina. In public
inftitutions tor the promotion of education, the arts, fciences, &c. it
however appears, by Mr. Mcrfe's account, to be deficient.

Bollon was formerly regarded as the capital of the province of Maflk.
chufettH, and of all tliefe northern provmces called New England. Its
trade has however fince declined, though it is Hill far from inconfider*
able. This city is fuppofed to contain about 30,000 inhabitants. The
harbour on a large bay is excellent, and capacious enough to receive
five hundred fhips at anchor} with a uarrow entrance commanded by a
calUe. There is a pier about 600 yards in length ; and the harbour it
interfperfed with about forty iflands, « hich afford excellent grain and
paflurage. Tl'is city alfo fufTered confiderably by the war, but has
been improTed» and the public buildings are, in (hat part of the world,
deemed ekuant. Boflon does not exceed two miles in length, being of
a circular furni ; and on the weft is the mall or public walk, planted
with rows of trees. On the fame fide is Beacon hill, on which a niona«
anent hai been created, commemorating fome of the moft important
events of the war. The fanatical fpirit of this city feems gradually to
/ublide i and it is even already ranked by fome among the rooft pleailng
and focwble io the United States.

• Morft, 4t9,

Baltinoif

UNITED STATES.

yyt

Sal^more in Maryland (lands on the north fide of the river Fatapfco^
•which nfiay rather be regarded as a creek of the great bay of Chefapeak,
find has rapidly rifen to its prefent confequence. The fituation is rather
low, but it has been rendered by art tolerably faliibrious. In 1790 the
number of inhabitants was 13(503.

Cnarleftown, in SoutV C^roliaa, is fituated at the confluence of Afhiey
and Cooper rivers, wh-cii a.e large and navigable, and open into a capa«
cious eftuary. The fituation is eileemed remarkably healthy, though
low, being refreflied by the fea breezea. In 1791 there were 16,35:9
■inhabitaiTts, of whom 7684 were flaves. This city is.celebrated for.euy
and iocial manners.

Such are the principal cities of the United States ; "but it may not lie
improper to add fome account of a few otherS} interefting from their
fitunt*on or other circumftances.

Nkw OuLEANS.3 Since the acquifition of Louifiana, the city of
New Orleans deferves great attention in every point of view. Its fitua-
tion is fuch as to command, In a great degree, the wide and important
navigation of the river Miffiflippi, fo eflentud to the prdfperity of the
inland fettlements. In the year i8ot, not lefs than 268 veifels entered
the mouth of Miffiflippi, of which eighteen were armed ; the American
fliips being 170, and the Spani(hjo8. The city of New Orleans was
founded in the time of the Miffiffippi fcheme, abouc 1720, under the
regency of the Duke of Orleans. The plan is regoUriy difpofedt the
tlirce principal and parallel ftreets being thofe of Orleans, Bourbon, and
Chartres. Towards the river there is a noble ^ay. In the year 1788
fo dreadful a conflagration Itappened, that of i«ioo houfes not 200 re*
mained. It has fince been completely rdbuilt, and now contains about
S400 houfes and 10,000 inhabitants. In 1793 it was fortified, 1)ut the
works are bad, and could offer but a feeble refiilance. The advantage*
for commerece are incalculable. Though fituated 105 miles above the
mouth of the Miffiflippi, a week's fail will convey its trade to Mexico*
ftnd the Britifli, French, and Spanifh Weft Indies. Nor can this im-
portaiit fettlcincnt fail to become the grand mart and receptacle for the
iruduce of all rhe prodigious eytcnt «f « yalualaile ccointry on the Mif*
iouri, Miffiffippi, andOhiQ.

Of Virginia, the chief port is Norfolk, but Richmond is the feat
of the government, containing about coo houfes and 4000 inhabitants.
It is partly fituated on a hill, which alfo prefents the ftate houfe.
It (lands on the river James, near the Rapids, which extend for feven
miles, but the inconveniences are iPemedied by a canal. A bridge of
great length, more than 1000 feet, partly raifed on boats, partly on
timber piers filled with ftone, paffes to Manchellcr, on the oCber fiae of
the river. -

Aonapolis, in Maryland, is ftiH regarded as the capital of that ftate«
though Baltimore be a more conliderable city. Annapolis is the
wealthier town of its fize in <the United States. Though fituated at
the mouth of the river Severn, on a healthy fpot, its commerce is now
incoiifiderable. The number of inhal>itants does not exceed aooo»
but the houfes are generally 'l>rge and elegant. The ttate houfe ftands
in the centre, whence the tlreets diverge lb as tv «mpart a circular form
to the whole town.

Savannah was formerly the capital of Georgia, buL contained little
more than 800 inhabitants. It was fucceedcd by Augufta, whtcli from
two houfes in 1780, rofe to 300 in 1787. The new feat of govern*
fncnt is Louifviile^ oo the bank of the riN'cr Ogcihe, about 70 miles

N Q 4 fruio

5;*

UNITED STATES.

from its mouth. The records and legiflatare were transferred thither
in 1795.

The new towns in the interior may defervedly excite curiofity. Pittf.
burg, which ftands at the junftion of the rivers Allegany and Monon-
gala, commands the navigation of the noble river Ohio, and is already
a town of confiderable trade ; the houfes, which are built of brick,
amounting to more than 400. Within ten years, this town has increafed
ten>fold, and is now a receptacle of the trade between Philadelphia, Bal.
timore, and the weAern ftates. Some veffels with three marts, carrying
about 250 tons, have here been conftrufted, and pafs by the Oliio and
MiiTifiippi to the Weft Indies.

Marietta did not exift 15 years ago, but now contains 200 houfes,
and is the chief eftabhihment on the Ohio. In the lame lUte, recently-
admitted into the union under the name of the ftate Ohio, is the town
of Gallipoli, which contains about a hundred houfes, the inhabitants
being moftly French.

Knoxville is the chief town in Tennaflee, and contains about 20Q
houles. Lexington, the chief town in Kentucky, countains about 3000
inhabitants. In 1786 the inhabitants were oiily computed at 900.

Edifices.] The chief edifices are commonly the halls in which tho
Aates of each province aflemble. The Capitol, and the houfe of the pre-
fident, in the new metropolis, defigned, it is believed, as well as the plan
of the city, by L' Enfant, arc confidercd as edifices of the moft fpkndid
promife.

Inland navigation.] Little occafion has hitherto arifen for opening
any canals for inland navigation, as the numerous great rivers have been
found fuHicieiit for the purpofes of intcrcoiirfe. No country in the world
can boaft of fuperior means of inland commerce by the great river MiHuuri,
and iiiany other navigable Itreams, not to mention lakes of prodigious ex<
tent. A canal, it is believed, is now opened between the rivers Schuylkill
and Sufquehana, and others are proje£ted. The roads alfo begin to be
improved, and feveral bridges have been e^ec^^ed, fome of which, in timber,
are of confiderable extent.

Manufactures.] The manufaftures of the United States may moflly
be confiderea us dill in their infancy, as they were accuftomed to be fiip-
plied by Great Britain ; and though the bond of authority be broken, the
commercial connexions remain. The chief manufactures are tanned lea-
ther, and dreffed flcins ; various common works in iron and in wood ; (liips,
for which Bofton was celebrated ; with feveral articles of niachinery und
hufbandry. Cables, fnilcloth, cordage, twine, packthread, bricks, tiles,
and pottery, paper of all kinds, hatM, fugara, fiuiff, gunpowder, arc alfo
American manufactures ; with ibnie utenfils in copper, brafs, and tin ;
clocks, and mathematical machines, and carriages of all defcriptiuns, The
domeftic manufadurcs, in coarfe cloths, ferges, flannels, cotton, and linen
goods of feveral forts not only fuifice for ttic i'amilies, but arc fomctimet
told, and even exported ; and in moil diftridls a great part ot the drefs is
the produA of domeitic induftry. Good wines have been made by French
fettlers on the Ohio from various wild gropes, wliich grow fpontaneuully
in thefe regions. The maple fugar is prepared in the northern and mid-
die Hates, and is deemed by many equal to that from the cane. The
recent commotions in Europe have probably driven many able manufac-
turers to America, where machinery it| purti(:ularly vuluable,'a8 the price
pf labour is exorbitant.

CoMMEAcs.] "iphe chief commerce of the United States is ft ill ccn-
^red in Britiih uortSy though France had a confiderable ihare } and fomc

trade be alfo carri
That with the Ea
1792 amounted to
tides being pot an(
whale oil and wha
lafles, tar, turpen
planks, boards, ai
mated at 297,46$
50,000 fearaen.

Upon the termi
ports were diminif
year previous to
dollars, the dome
reign at 13,594,0
tonnage, on the ^
ports for the yea
73,971,780 dollars
from New York,
thofe to Gre^t Brit
were about 15,00c
only 5,000,000. I
ending on the ift o
93,020,513 dollars
Spain 13,000,000,

The bank of PI
beeen fuccefsful : it
capital ftock being
eagles in gold, with
dollars or two pou
one quarter, the g(
dollar, with the hall
worth nearly fixpeni
in copper is equal t
the Englifti halfpeni
farthing.

The total amoui
191,092 pieces, nai
43-597 eagles, half
mi cents. The to

Climate and Seafons. -
— Laiej. — Moutii
— Mineral Waten,

Climate.] 'T^^

tions from heat to c
weft u violently cold
In the plains on the c
moderate J and in fon

UNITED STATES.

553

trade be alfo carried on with Spain, Portugal, Holland, and the Baltic.
That with the Eaft Indies and Africa is inconfiderable. The exports in
1792 amounted to more than twenty-one millions of dollars ; the chief ar-
ticles being pot and pearl aihes, cotton, coffee, flax, dried and pickled fifh,
whale oil and whale bone, wheat, Indian corn, indigo, (heep, hogi^, mo.
lafles, tar, turpentine, American rum, tobacco, furs, ftaves, {liingles,
planks, boards, and timber in general. The tonnage was in 1789 efti-
niated at 297,468, and in 1798 at 800,000 tons, navigated by nearly
50,000 feamen.

Upon the termination of the unhappy war in Europe, 1802, the ex-
ports were diminiihed by the lofs of the carrying trade ; yet during th©
year previous to the firft of October 1803, amounted to 55,800,033
dollars, the domellic articles being elHmated at 42,205,961, and the fo-
reign at 13,594,072. From Mr, Gallatin's report it appears that the
tonnage, on the 31ft of December 1802, was 864,500 tons. The ex-
ports for the year prior to the ift of Oftobcr 1800, amounted to
70,971,780 dollars : the higheft from any particular (late being thofe
from New York, which amounted to 14,045 079. Of tbefe exports,
thofe to Gre^t Britain were valued at 27,310,289 dollars; thofe to Spain
were about 15,000,000; to the Hanfe Towns 8,ooo,oco ; to France
only 5,000,000. For the fucceeding year, during the European war,
ending on the ift of Odtober 1801, the exports were to the amount of
93,020,513 dollars; of which Great Britain received about 42,000,000,
Spain 13,000,000, France 11,000,000.

The bank of Pliiladelphia was founded in 1 787 ; and foems to liave
beeen fuccefsful : it is alfo called the bank of tlie United States, the
capital flock being ten millions of dollars. The coinage conihls of
eagles in gold, with a half and quarter, the eagle being v-lued at tea
dollars or two pounds tivi.* Oiiilings iteriing, thus exceeding by al)out
one quarter, the golden mohur ot Hinltoitan. In iilver, btiidcs the
dollar, with the half and quarter, there are difmes or ti'nths of a d. liar,
worth nearly fixpence Englifli, and half difmes or twentiL-lhs. Tlie cent
in copper is equal to the hundredth part of a dollar, or ! ttle more tliau
the Englifh halfpenny ; wbile the half cent nearly corrc Iponds with the
farthing.

The total amount of the coinage, 1804, was as follows: filver
191,092 pieces, namely dollars, half and quarter, and difmes; gold
43'597 eagles, half eagles and quarters; copper 1,813,159 cents and
mi cents. The total value being 37 1,827 dollars.

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL GKUOnAl'IlY.

Climate and Sea/ont. — Face of the Country. — Soil and jlgrkulture. — Riv/rt.

— Lakes. — Mountains. — Swamps. Botany. — Zuolo^. — Mineialo^,

— Mineral Waters, — Natural Curioftties. ,, ■ < , /

Climate 1 '"f^^^ climate of the United Territories, as already
'■^ A mentioned, is cliicfly remarkable for fiidden tranfi-
tions from heat to cold, and the contrary. The wind from the north-
weft is violently culd^ as it uaffes a wide expanie of the iar/x-n contuient.
In the plains on the call of the Apalachian chain the fumnier heatr arc im-
moderate J and in fome places even ice will uot prefeive poultry ur filk from

puircfadtion.

554

TJNITED STATES.

Jmtrefa£):ion. Towards the mountains the elimate is falutary, eren in the
buthcrn dates. In the northeni ftates the winter is longer and more fe.
verc than in England, but the fummer heat more intenfe. A N.£. wind
commonly attends rain, while on the weft fide of the Apalachian inoun«
tains a S. W. has that efFeft. In Georgia the winter is very mild, fnow
beinjf feldom feen, and the eaft^wind is there the warmeft.

This exceflive heat of the plains mud be regarded as one caufe of that
fatal pe^lrlential malady called the ydlow fever, wliich firft appeared at
Philadelphia in 1 795, and has fince too fregueQtly repeated ito ravages in
various cities of the commonwealth.

Seasons.] The feafons in the United States generaMy correfpond with
thofe in Europe, birt not with the equaiHty to be expe£ted on a continent;
zs, even durinfj the fnmmer heats, (ingle days will occur which require the
warmth of a fire. The latitnde of Labrador correfponds with that of
Stockholm, and that of Canada with France : but what a wide difference
in the temperature ! Even the eftuary of the Deiawar is generally froze*
for fix weeks every winter. Nor does the weftem coait of North Ame-
rica feem warmer than the eaftern. The nuncierous fore(l«, and wide ex-
panfes of frefh water, perhaps contribute ta tiiis comparative coldnefs of
the climate, which may gradually yield te the progrefsof population and
indiiilry.

Face of tite country.] The face of thefe extcnfive territories is not
fo minutely divcrfified as might have been expe£ted, the features of nature
being here on a larger and more uniform fcale than in Europe. Nor are
there any fcenes of claflical or hiltorical reminifcence, which tranfport the
xrand to remote centuries, and impart a crowd of relative ideas. The
abundance of timber, and the diverfity of the foliage, contribute greatly ta
enrich the landfcapc ; but it is here reputed a weed, and the planter felaom
fpares trees near his habitation, as the roots having had no great room to
fpread or penetrate, they would be dangerous during a violent wind. The
landfcape is lefs ennobled by lofty mountains than by rivers of great niagni>
tude. The northern provinces called New England are generally hUiy,
as they tpproach the Hvirts of the Apalachian chain, which has, by n»
tinfit fimilitude, been called the fpine of the United Territory. The vales
in thefe northern regions are thickly cloathed with wood, and often per.
Taded by confiderabie rivers ; and many romantic cafcades are formed by
rivulets falling from the rucks, while towards the fhore the land is level
and fandy. In Virginia, a central (late, the Blue Mountains, and other
ridges of the Apulachian, add great charms and variety to the profped,
which is farther enlivened by many beautiful plants and birds, particularly
the humnung bird, fucking the honey of various flawers, and rapidnr
glancing in the fun its indefcribable hues of green, purple, and gola«
Here a pbin from 150 to 200 mi'es in breadth, reaching from theoioun*
tains to the fea, is ftudded with the villas of rich proprietors, the ancient
hofpitable country gentlemen of the United States. Similar levels ap-
pear in the Caroluias and Georgia. Beyond the Apalachiw ridges ex«
tends another rich plain of ama/ing fize, pervaded by the muddy waves
of the MilTilTippi, which does not appear to be table land,' but on nearly
the fame level with the eaftern plain. In Kentucky the furface is agree,
ably waved with gentle fwclls, rcpofuig on a vaft bed of limeftone ; and a
trad of about twenty miles along ihe Ohio is brol^en into fmall hills an(}
narrow vales.

Soil.] The foil, though of various defcriptions, is generally fcitik,
often, on the eail of the Blue Mountains, a rich brown loamy earth,
fumetimcs a ycUowiih clay, which becomes more and more fsndy towards

.the

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5Si

the fea. SometimeB there are confiderable marflies, and wliat are called
fait meadows, and fpots called barrens, which, even in the original forefts*
are found to be bare of trees for a confiderable fpace *. On the weft of
the Apalachian chain the foil is alfo generally excellent ; and in Kentucky
fome fpots are deemed too rich for wheat, but the produft may amount to
fixty buihels an acre : and about fix feet below the furface there is com-
monly a bed of limeilone. The vales in the northern ftates are alfo very
produftive.

. Agriculture.] In agriculture the Americans are well flcilled, and
are eager to adopt the advantages i;f £ngli(h experience. The late great
prefident Wafhington was himfelf an excellent farmer ; and it is computed
that at leaft three parts in four of the inhabitants of the United Statet
are employed in agriculture. Tnis free and vigorous yeomanry may wel!
be regarded as the chief glory of any ftate ; and commerce will import fuf-
ficient opulence to enable them to promote every poffible improvement*
Agriculture particularly Hourifhes in New England and Pennfylvania ;
and fuch is its progrefs, that the ftates are enabled, aimoil yearly, to in-
creafe the exportation of grain and flour. In 1 786 Pennfylvania exported
ijo,ooo barrels of flour ; in 1789 no lefs than 369,618 barrels. Among
the numerons produds are wheat, rye, barley, buck wheat, oats, beans,
pcafe, and maize, the laft a native grain. In Virginia fome rice is culti-
vated and is found to fucceed well on the banks of the Ohio. The Ger-
man fpelt, a valuable produdt, is alfo fown in Pennfylvania; and in
feveral provinces hemp and flax are confideYable objefts of agriculture.
The culture of turnips, and fome other vegetables common on Englifli
/arms, feems as yet to draw little attention ; but many cultivated graflea
are fown. That invaluable plant the potatoe is a native of the country ;
as are feveral kinds of melon and cu tumber. Hops are alfo cultivated :
and it is alnioil unneceflary to add tobacco, a well known produ£i of
Virginia, which opulent province bears a confiderable refcmblance in cul-
ture and manners to our Weft Indian fettlements. Orchards arc favourite
objefts,; and cyder is a common beverage in the northern and middle
ftates. The excellent Newtown apple grows near New York. Peaches
are greatly cultivated in Virginia, where the peach brandy is noted ; and
there are alfo excellent apricots and nedlarines.

Rivers.] The chief rivers of the United States have already been
defcribed in the brief general view of North America ; but a few may
be here mentioned of a more conBned courfe, and more particularly be-
longing to the United Territory. That great weftem boundary the Mif-
fiflippi,befidesthe celebrated Ohio, pervadingthe centre of theUnited Ter-
ritory from eaft to weft, receives many other confiderable ftreams, among
which is the lUini, or in the French tpude Illinois, which waters exten-
five and fertile meadows. More northern ftreams flowing into the Mif-
ilflippi are the Uifconfin, the Chipaway, and the river St. Croix. The
noble ftream of the Ohio receives from the north the Great and Little
Miami, and the Wabnfli: from the fouth, thp Great Kennnway. the
Kentucky, the Green River, and above all the Cumberland and the Ten-
naifee ; while the countrv on the weft of Georgia is watered by feveral
ftreams which join the gulf of Mexico.

Among the numerous rivers which flow on the eaft, into the Atlan-
tic, may bo mentioned the limitary ftream of St. Croix, the Penabfcot,
the Kennebec, the Saco, the Merimac, the Connedticut, a long and
'liftinguijhcd ilreaniy which gives name to the province, but which yields

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5S^

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in length and grandeur to the Hudfon river, which, rifing from feveral
lakes in the northern parts of New York, flaws into the ocean near the
flouriihing city of that name. The river Delawar, which waflies Phila.
delphia, being joined by numerous ftreams, is more remarkable for its
width than for the ifength of its courfe. The Sufquehanna is diftin.
I guiftied by both thefe attributes, and after a long and circuitous progrefs
forms the chief contributary ftream to the bay of Chefapcak ; which
alfo receives the Patomak and the Fluvanna, or James River. The
Patomak is not only remarkable as the feat of the new capital, but for
its irruption through the Blue Ridge of the Apalachian mountains, be-
ing firft joined by the Shenandoa, a copfiderable river from tlie fouth.
Farther to the fouth the chief rivers flow W. into the Ohio. But the
Black water and Staunton join the Roanok inlet : and Pamlico found
receives a river of the fame name. That of Cape Fear, the Pedce, the
Santee, the Savannah, and the Altamaha of Georgia, clofe the lift of
the chief rivers of the United States.

Lakes.] Befides the great lakes which form the northern boun'^ary,
and which have been already mentioned in the general defcription of
Korth America, there are fome confiderable lakes in the northern parts of
the United Territory. Thofe on the weft have been little explored. The
fmall lakes called Cedar, Little "Winnipeg, and Leech, fupplythe fourcej
of the Mifliflippi. On the eaft the moft important lake is that of Cham.
plain, rather refembHng a wide river, which flows into that of St. Law.
rence, and fupplies an eafy communication with Canada. The Cham.
plain is the boundary between the ftates of New York and Vermont,
being in length about 75 g. miles, while the breadth feldom exceeds four
or live ; and it terminates m the bread river called Chambly or Richlieu,
vhich falls within the limits of Canada. Lake George, at the foutliern '
extremity of Champlain, approaches within a few miles of the Hudfon
river, fo that a canal might be opened at no great expence. Befidcs
many fmall lakes S. W. of the Champlain, there are feveral other lakes
in the fame diredion, and alfo in the province of New York, as the
pneida, the Cayuga, and Sennaka.

Mountains.] The chief mountains have been likewife defcribed in
the general view of North America. The White and Green mountains
in the northern provinces, and the Land's Heights, which bounds the
diftrift of Main,* may be regarded as elongations of the Apalachian
chain, to whicli alfo belong the Savage and Bald mountains, and the
Allegany, fo called from another name of the river Ohio, (fometimes ex.
tended to the whole Apalachian,) with many other local denominations,
the Blue mountains being the moft general term for the exterior ridge
towards the ocean *.

FoKESTS.] Aboriginal forefts arefo luimerous throughout the United
Territory, that none feem to be particularly diftinguiflied. There does
not appear to exift on the whole' continent of America, any of thofe
iandy deferts which are fo remarkable in Afia and Africa. There is, on
the contrary an exuberance of water, even in the moft torrid regions ;
which might be added as a proof of the theory that this continent has
more recently emerged. Even the volcanoes in South America often
pour down torrents of water and mud, and no where occur the fandy
ruins of plains, after the fertile foil has been totally loft, or the rocky
fkeletons of ancient mountains. The large tra^i in the eaftern part uf

* The romponent parts of the White Mountaina feem to be date, {teirofiltx, afid giej
quaru. See Morfe, p. aoa. ,., . . , , . ^ ... ,

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Virginia and North Carolina, called the Difmal Swamp, occupies about
If 0,000 acres ; bu^ it is entirely covered with trees, juniper and cyprus
on the more moift parts, and on the drier white and red oaks, and a variety
of pines*. Thefe trees attain-a prodigious fize ; and among them there
is often thick brufhvvood, fo as to render the fwamp impervious, while
other forefts in North America are commonly free from underwood.
Cane reeds, and tall rich grafs, foon fatten cattle of the vicinity, which
are taught to return to the farms of their own accord. In this fwampy
foreft, bears, wolves, deer, and other wild animals abound. Some parts
are fo dry as to bear a horfe, while fome are overflowed, and others fo
miry that a man would fink up to the neck. A canal has been led
through it ; and even in the dry parts water of the colour of brandy gufhed
in at the depth of three feet. In the northern part the timber fuppHes
an article of trade, while in the fouthern, rice is found to profper ; and
in the neighbourhood none of thefe difeafes are known which haunt other
marlhy fituations f .

Swamps.] Georgia prefents a Angular marfli, or in the wet feafon a
lake, called Ekanfanoko, by others Ouaquafenoga:j:, in the S. E. ex-
tremity of the province. This marfliy lake is about 300 miles in cir-
cumference, and contains feveral large and fertile ifles, one of which is
reprefented by the Creek Indians as a kind of paradife, inhabited by a
peculiar race, whofe women are incomparably beautiful, and are called
by them Daughters of the Sun. Thefe iflanders are faid to be a remnant
of an ancient tribe, nearly exterminated by the Creeks.

Botany.] The botany of the United States, including the Floridas,
or, in other words, of the whole region extending eaftward from the Mif-
filTippi to the ocean, and fouthward from the river St. Lawrence with its
lakes to the gulf or Mexico, may be divided into thofe vegetables which
are common to the whole country, and thofe that occupy only particular
parts.

The mod generally diffufed fpecies among the timber trees are, the
willow-leaved oak growing in the fwamps ; the chefnut oak, which in the
fouthern Hates attains an enormous fize, and is almoft as valuable for its
fweet farinaceous acorns as for its wood, the white oak, the red and the
black. Next to thefe in rank are two kinds of walnut, the black, and the
white or the hiccory, efteemcd for its oily nuts. The tulip tree and faffa-
fras laurel, more impatient of cold than the preceding, appear as flirulis
on the Canadian borders, rife into trees in the midland ftatcs, and on the
warm banks of the Altamaha attain the full perfedion of ilatelinefs and
beauty. The fugar maple, on the contrary, is feen only on the northern
fides of the hills in the fouthern dates, and increafes both in fize and fre-
quency in the more bracing climate of the New England provinces. The
fweet gum tree, the iron wood, the American elm, the black poplar, and
the taccamahacca, appear in every ftate of the Union wherever the foil is
fuitable, without being much affefted by variety of climate. The light
fandy trails, both wet and dry, are principally inhabited by the important
and ufcful family of pines ; of thefe the chief fpecies are the Pennfylva-
nian fir, the common and the hemlock fpruce fir ; the black, the white,
aad the Weymouth pine ; and the larch : nearly allied to which are the

♦ Weld, i. 179.

t Oil tht N. E. of -he Chefappak it another o£ great extent called Cedar Swamp 1 and
feme other large fwamps wcur iu the fouthern flates.

X Such long and bai'barous app'Uatives, derived from favagei who have a word of
founeen fyllablw to exjp rtfr the luunbn Utreep are not uufre^uftnt ia Nwth American
Seogiaphy, • > '

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■rbor vitae, and the red cedar of America. The fmaller trees and flirutt
that are difperfed in all parts of the United States, amone a muhjtude of
others, confill of the folIovTing ; the fringe tree, the red maple, the fu,
inach and poifon oak, the red mulberry, the perftmmon plum, and the
triple-thorned acacia.

The mouiitainons ridges are not fufficiently high to be rich in alpine
plants ; their climate however is fenfibly cooler than that of the plains,
on which account thof^ of the fouth are inhabited by tlie vegetables of
Pennfylvania and the northern ftates, vrhile the highlands of thefe abound
in the plants of Canada.

^ B'jt the glories of the American flora are principaUv confined to Vir.
ginia and the fouthern ftates i it is here that tlie unfadmg verduK of the
■wide favannas, the folemn magnificence of the primeval forelts, and the
wild exuberance of the fteaming fwamps, offer to the ailonifhed admira.
tion of the botanift every thing that by colour, by fragrance, and by
form, can delight the lenfes and fix the attention.

^ The low ridges of calcareous foil running parallel with the rivers, and
riling from the level favannas into extenfive lawns and fweUing hills, are

fenerally covered with open or entangled woods, except where they have
een converted into tillage by the induftry of the inhabitants. In thefe
rich trads grow the lofty palmetto, the evergreen oak, the fwect bay,
the benzoe laurel, the common laurel, the wide (hading broom pine, and
the red cedar. The ftraight filvcry columns of the papaw fig, riling to the
height of twenty feet, and crowned by a canopy of broad iinuatedleaves,
form a ttriking feature in this delicious fcenery ; while the golden fruit
and fragrant bloflbms ©f the orange, here realize the ancient traditions of
the groves of the Hefperides. Superior however to all thefe is the tower,
ing magnificence of the great magnolia : in this rich marly fcil it rifej
above a hundred feet, with a perfe(illy ereft trunk, fupporting a fhady
conical head of dark-green foliage : from the centre of the coronets of
leaves that terminate the branches expands a large rofe-fiiaped blolfom of
pure white, which is fucceedcd by a crimfon cone, containing the feeds of
a beautiful coral red colour ; and thefe falling from their cols remain for
feveral days fufpended from the fced-vefTel by a filky thread, fix inches or
more in length ; fo that whether in tliis ilatc or in bloflbm it is fecond to
none for grandeur and beauty.

The level plains by the fides of rivers, and therefore generally in a
jflooded ftate during the whole rainy feafon, are called favannas. The trees
that grow upon them are of the aquatic kind, particularly the beaver
tree, and American olive ; thefe are generally cither finglc or grouped
together into fmall open groves, while the larger part or the meadow is
overgrown with long lucculent herbage, intermixed with fhrubs and plants ;
the candleberry myrtle, with numerous fpecies of azaleas, kalmias, an.
dromedas, and rhododendrons, arranged by the hand of nature into
thickets and flirubbcries, entwined and ovcr-arched by the crimfon grana.
diha, or th^ lantaftic clitoria, here difplay their inimitable beauties in full
luxuriance. The fides of the pools and the (hallow plafiies are adorned
by the bright cterulean flowers of the ixia, the golden bloffoms of the
yellow canna, and the rdfy tufts of the hydrangia, while the edges of the
groves, and the dubious boundaries of the favannas, rlfing imperceptibly
towards the forelts, are fringed by innumerable gay varieties ot the phlox,
by the ftirinking fenfitive plant, the irritable dioiiaea, the glowing amaryllii
atamafco, and the impenetrable ranks of the royal palmetto.

The fwamps are at all times, even in the height of fummer, for the mod
part under water, and are diftinguifhed from the reft of the country by

UNITED STATES.

SS9

tbe crowded ftems of the cane, the light foliage of the tupelo tree, the
taccamahacca) and the white cedar : this laft is perhaps the mod pi^.
tefque tree in all America ; four ckt five enormous buttreifes or rude pillan-
rife from the eround» and unite in a kind of arch at the height of about
feven feet, and from this centre there fprings a ftraight column eighty or
ginety feet high, without a branch: it then fprea^into a flat umbrella-
(haped top, covered with finely divided leaves of the moft delicate green.
This platform is the iecure abode of the eagle and the crane i and the
(nly feeds contained in its cones are the &vouvite repaiit of the paroqueti
that are conftantly fluttering around.

Hundred» more of interefling plants yet remain, and we mieht go on
to defciibe with unabated pleaiure the profufion of variou8>coloured lu«
pines and dwarf palmettos that relieve the dudcy hue of the pine fbrefts
u which they live } the wild vines, the gourds, the bignonias, and other
climbers that difplay to the fun their fruits and glowing bloflfoms above
the fummits of the UtSeA trees ; we might defcribe the tent-like fhade of
the platanus, the regal fplendour of the crimfon flowered horfe-cheil-nut,
and many humbler, le£s obtruiive, yet not lefs exquifite beauties t but
thefe our limits wiU not admit ; it is enough for the prefent purpofe to
bve fketched fomc of the charaderiflio features in the botany of a coun-
try, the mod acceflible of aU the warmer climates to the inveftigations of
European fcience.^

Z00L00Y.3 The domcflic zoology of the United States nearly cor-
Rfponds with that of the parent country, with fome few (hades of differ-
ence in fi^e and colour. Among; the larger wild animals may be men-
tioned the bifon, large herds of which ufed to be feen near the Mifliffippi,
and they were once very numerous in the weftenv parts of Virginia and
PcDnfylvania. The mufk bull and cow only appear in the more weftern
regions, beyond the Miffiflippi. Among the animals now loft are clafi*ed
the mammoth, whofe enormous bones are particularly found near the fait
fpriogs upon the Ohio. The moofe deer are become extremely rare, and
will probably in no long time be utterly extirpated, as the wolf and boar
have been in Britain. The American (lag rather exceeds the European
in fize, and is feen in great numbers feeding in the rich favannas of the
Miflburi and MiffifUppi, where there are alfu herds of tliat kind called
the Virginian deer.

Bears, wolves, and foxes are found in all the ftates, together with a
few rapacious animals of the cat kind> improperly called panthers and
tigers.

The beaver is well known from the fur, and the fingfllar formation of
hit cabin, built in ponds for the fake of fecurity. This induftrious animal
i) found in all the ftates, and is fomewhat imitated by tlie mufk rat, who
likewife builds his hut in fhallow ftreams. Some kinds of monkeys are
faid to be found in the fouthern dates. The morfc, or fea cow, and
the feal, ufed to frequent the northern fhores i and the manati, common
in South AmericJ, is faid fometimes to appear on the fouthern coails.

Among the birds there are many kinds of eagles, vultures, owls ; and
numerous forts called by European names, thmigh generally of diiUndt
fpecies. The turkey is peculiar to America and abounds in the north *,
They were brought from Mexico to Spain, and from Spain to England
about 1524; the African poultry, or tneiagrldcs, of more ancient au-
thors, being Guinea fowls. Virginia abounds with beautiful birds, and
it may be conceived that vaft varieties of aquatic birds crowd the nu-

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merous lakes and rivers, the largefl: being the wild fwan, which fome*
times weighs thirty-lix pounds. Some of the frogs are of remarkable
fize ; and the tortoife or turtle, fupplies a delicio. - food, while the
alligator is frequent in the fouthern rivers. Oi i- .; iiio Mr. Morfe enu-
merates near forty kinds found in the United Ten I •v3 Virginia, in par-
ticular, producing great numbers. The rattlefnt/ s tiie largcll, beiiio-
from four to fix teet in length, and is one of the moft dreaded. Amon^
the fiiTi are moil of thofe which are elleemed in Europe ; and of thole
that are peculiar may be mentioned a large kind of white trout found in
the lakes.

Mineralogy.] The mineralogy of the United States will not fupply
an extenftve theme, as few fubftances are, found, except thofe which are
indeed the moft precious to induftry, iron, and coal. Iron ore is found in
great abundance in Maffachufets, where there arc confiderable manufac.
tures. Copper ore alfo appears in that province. In Rhode illand there
are mines of iron and copper*. On the banks cf the Connefticut is a
lead mine, but too expenfive to work ; and zinc is alfo found with talc,
and cryf^^alg of various colours. At Philipfburg in New York is a filver
mine ; and lead, zinc, and manganefe, with copp'jr and coal. The middle
provinces feem only to produce iron ore ; but Virginia is celebrated for
various minerals. A lump of gold ore was found near the falls of the
river Rappahanoc, probably rolled down from its fource, or thatof fome
tributary rivulet. There are lead mines which yield from fifty to eighty
poun(^s from one hundred of ore : copper and black lead are alfo found ;
and there is abundance of excellent coal on both fides of James River,
faid to have been difcovcred by n boy in pmfuit of cray fifli. Coal alfo
abounds towards the Mifliflippi and Ohio : and at Pittfburg is of fuperior
quality :• but this valuable mineral is chiefly worked in Virgi ia, where
the beds feem very extenlive. liimettone is rare on the caft of the Blue
ridge ; but there is a vein of marble which crofles James river. Amethyfts,
or violet coloured cryftals, are alfo found in Virginia. North Carolina
is crofled by a long ridge of limcltone, in a fouth-wellerly direftion, but
no minerals feem to have been difcovered. In the territory fouth of the
Ohio, what is called ftone-coal is found in the Cumberland mountains, or
great laurel ridge, and there are fait fprihgs near the upper branches of
the Tennaffee. In South Carolina there are faid to be appearances of
iilver and lead, with abundance of iron ore, and quarries of free ftone.
Georgia, the moft foutheni ftate, is of a rich foil ; but bcfides a bank
of oyfter fhells, ninety miles from the fea, there feems no mineralogic
difcovery.

Medical waters.] There are feyeral medical waters of various
virtues, in different provinces of the United States. In the province cf
Vermont, or the Green Mountain, there is a remarkable fulpliureous
fpring, which dries up in two or three years, and burfts out in another
place. Thofe of Saratoga in the province of New York, arc remarkably
copious, and furrounded with fingular petrifaftions. They are confider-
ably frequented, as well as thofe of New Lebanon in the fame country.
Two warm fprings occur in Virginia, one of them in 1 1 2°. Thefe are
called the fprings of Augufta : others more frequented are near the river
Patomak. The fait fprings in Kentucky alfo deferve mention ; and
there are others in the province of Tennaffee.

Natural curiosities.] The natural curiofities of the United States

* Native copper i» fuuod on the hyec Tonnagan, which runt into iiake Superior.
Mackenxie, xii. • > .

are

Bmdarut,^ Original

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56.1

are numerous, and have been inveftigated with that laudable attention,
which has been particularly dire£ked by the Englifh towards fuch intereft.
inf^ appearances. Befides the irruption of the river Patomak through the
Blue Mountains, and other objeAs already mentioned, the principal un-
common features of nature (hall be briefly indicated from Mr. Morfe's
American Geography. In the province of Vermont is a curious (lalac-
title cave, in which, after a defcent of 104 feet, there opens a fpacious
room about 20 feet in breadth, and 100 in length, with a circular hall at
the farther end, at the bottom of which boils up a deep fpring of clear
vater. Near Durham in New Hampfhire is a rock fo poifed on another,
as to move with one finger ; a natural remain of a ruined hill, though in
England it would be called Druidical.

In the province of New York a rivulet runs under a hill about feventy
yards in diameter, forming a beautiful arch in the rock ; and there is a fta-
Ia6dtic cave in which was found the petrified Ikeleton of a large fnake.
In the territory on the N. W. of the Ohio, the favannas, or rich plains,
txtead for thirty or forty miles without any tree ; they are crouded with
deer, wild cattle, and turkeys, and often viuted by bears and wolves ; but
thii diftrifi is chiefly remarkable for a number of old forts, of an oblong
form, with an adjoining tumulus or tomb. As the Mexicans have a tra-
dition that they pafled from the north, thefe forts may perhaps "be remains
of their firft refidence, or of fome nation which they uibdued. The na-
tval bridge is a fublime and ftriking curiofity, being a rock covered with
foil and trees, acroCi a chafm, appearing to have been opened in the coiirfe
of ages by a brook, which now runs between two and three hundred feet
beneath. The breadth of this bridge is about fixty feet ; and the thick-
nefs of the mafs about forty.

Islands.] The chief iflands belonging to the United States are Long
Ifland, (the province called Rhode Illand being continental, with two or
three fmall iflands attached,) and a few infular ftripes of land near the
Ihores of North Carolina. The others, fcattered along the coait, and in
the Tari«U8 bays and lakes, are of little confequence. ^, ■., .

■•ivv'f

THE SPANISH DOMINIQNS
IN NORTH AMERJCJ.

. \ CHAPTER I.

■ •?■■ ■ I-

'- «;-H- •,

s •

'rl

HISTORICAL OEOORAPHY. ■,.,?,..<

BtunJarUt. — Oripnal PopuIatitn.-^Hjfiorical Epochs^ ■— jintlqulttet, ?,

I Bfttt« . "I TN tftimating the extent of thefe large and flourifhing
pouNDARiBS.J J^ pofleffions, it wiU be neceflary, in the firft place,
Itoconfider thp boundaries. That towards the fouth-eaft is decidedly the
jtaftern boundary of Veragua, the lail province of North America ; con-
: filling, according to Lopez, of a ridge as already mentioned, called
I Sierras de Canatagua. Towards the north the Spaniards do not readily
jalTent to a boundary, but in fad claim the whole N-W. of America,

O o pretending

'H'l

562

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

pretenditifj a prior right of difcovery to the Englifh, or any other nation
and appoint a governor of New California, by which name tlicy imply
all the N.W. coaft of America. Within land the boundancs of Loiiil;.
ana, formerly pofleffed by Spain, afcended, even by the Enghfh maps
to the Turtle Lake, one of the foiirces of the Mifliflippi ; but fmce
that province has been acquired by the United States, the limits of the
Spanifh poffeflions mnft be fought on the woftern coaft, where the Eno-.
lifh efpocially claim the port of Sir Francir. Drake, and mark the Spanish
boundary at Fort St. Francifco, to the north of the town of Montcrv.
But Cape Mendocino was the boundary lixcd by the la!l treaty. Upon
the whole, the fourccs of the Rio del Nfirto n-'jiy be afinmod as a nu-
dial boundary, as there are feveral fniall Spanifli fi'ttlements to tlw K,
of Santa Fc, that is iiboiit 'at. ^9 30', while the fouthcrn boumlarv i-
aboiit Ivt. 7 ■^ ' : hence a !e:!gth of 32 degrees, or 1920 g. tnilpf.
But tl).' broadth httle coirefponds to this prodigiou" lengtJi of tcrritcirv ;
tliongh in one place, from the Atlantic fhore of Eall Florida to tliofo
of California on the Pacific, it amounts to about ihrce-quarters of tli.it
length ; but the narrowell part of the illhmus in Veragua is not abo•,'^
25 B. miles : in general tlie medial breadth can fcarcely be compntod at
more than 400 g. mi!e«.

The Spanifh dominions in Nortli America are, as Antilinn nhfervc!;.
immenfe in their extent; while fcarcely even a v '.age appe:;rs fnmubr
tropic towards the north, or in wliat be calls the interior pvoviiicL-
There are only a few ganifons, tn(>ll of thciri in rMins ; nor is tlierp :iin
hope that thefe provinces can contribute to th.e proiperity of the parfnt
country. On all fides, fays he, thetv are ntnintains and bai rem:":' ,
without any product, except the ir.ir.ts, wliich however fo mucli r.bi)i::i(l
in Sonora, New Mexico, New Bifcay, and N<nv Leon, tliat tlicv ri\,'l
thofe of the fouthern provinces. He proceeds to ohferve, tliat tK.
names of pretended kingdon^s of Leon, Santander, &(?. produce fA''-
ideas with refpedt to countrios, which in fad are mere defarts, without
a foot of real and fecure territ-ry ; wliil^ the pretended polfdiio!!
colts the royal irealury not Ids than 1,200,000 pijos or dullar.-
Hnnually.

Divi.siovs.] The adminion of chorography into univerfal geograp'r.
mull be reprobated, as lu'tirogem-ous ard foreign to the nature and piir.
dear of a dt fcription t)f the whtlc world. Hence a choro,rrapli:cal a.
fcription of a coimtry, or tint wliich prefeiits an acrou\it of eac!i pn'-
vincc, or even (tate, howcwr excrlu nt ii a dttarlied wink, has mvir
been admitted into i\\<.' prefi^nt plan. But the divilii.ns and hoi;iul:.'i,'i
of the Spauifli provinces in North Atnrrica have l)een fo little illiillriit^'.!,
that modern writers, even of, great celebrity, have fallen into feveral ir.'-
takes; and as it is llu- peculiar duty of a gf(igi'a]>hical work to oh.
viate fuch mifupprcluiirions, K.me details 011 tl.ii lu'jed become iir-
avoidable. .'■.\»-.n^' .. ^.

The extenfivc and opiiVnf cniiiire in North An crii-a. bi-longing to
Spain, may be conlldercd under ijie iullowing grand divilious.

vtfi:-noY.\r,TY of .;ew srAix.

I I

This important portion prefentj the following provinces, now cnlW
IvTEMiWcii's, procetding from the fouth towards the north. I'art of
the fonfhern provinces of Ve^a Cruz (which embraces Tahafco', siull
©f MeriJa or Yucatan, border to the fouth uj)on the goveiinncnt nfl

f J GiiaiiiuaUl

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

5^3

Guatlmala, which chiefly contains the didriAs on the Pacific, or more
properly Grand Ocean,

1. Mend a, or Tucatan. -.

2. P^era Cruz, a maritime province of vaft exten^, reaching along the
jrulf of Mexico, from the river Baraderas to the great river ot Pa-
nuco, which rlfes in the metallic mountains of San Luis Potofi,
bciiTif about 210 leagues in length, while the breadth is only from
25 to 2S.

3. Oaxaca.

4. Pmhla de los jingdes* , ,<■

5. Mexico.

6. FaladoUJ, or Mechoacan.

7. Guatlalaxara,

8. Guaiiaxuato. ■ ' ' *" *

; ' '• i.

?»st-.f"

>*fr'

■ (. tp,

.!^.^V1 .

g.Zacattcas. '' •*' >*"^-. =:»^^- •^•'■A h :..m»,s,, J..,Ck !<- -.cnur

10. 5'a« /jwm Potnjt, which includes New Leor. and Santander.

11. Duran^o, including New B'tfcay^ and the diftritt called Bolfon de
Maplm't. Tlie large province of Taraumara is totally omitted in Hum-
boldt's dcfcription, though it is defcribe.i at confiderable length by
Alccdo, who gives the mmies of forty-eiGjht miffions in that region ;
and adds that the capital is S. Felipc-de-Chiguagiia. This laft is the
Cliihuahiia of Humboldt and Pike, who fcem to arrange it as the capi-
tal of New Bifcay. The former fays that the intendancy of Du-
rante is more known under the name of New Bifc:iy ; and gives na
hint what can have occafioncd the error of Alcedo concerning the
name and province, of Taraumara. On the other hand, Alcedo is an
uitlior fo gn.fsly inaccurate that his authority is of little uie in Ame-
rican geography *.

12. Sonnra, which contains the province fo called, and that of C'm^loa,
or S'maloa.

13 The extreme provinces towards the N.E. Cohahuila and Texas
are iubjc6l to the intendant of San Luis Potofi. This portion might
be llyled the intendancy of San Luis of the North, and the other part
of thi' South.

14. Mw Mexico, which is faid to be a mean diftrict, without mines
(ir other ailvantagos. '

15. Tiie Citlifoniiiis.
The provinces immediately fiibjcft to the viceroy of New Spain a'e,

McKico, Puebla, Vera Cruz, Oaxaca, Mcrida,' or Yucatan, Valadol'd,
Ciiad ilaluira, Zacatecus, Guanaxuatu, San Luis 1 otofi (except N^w
Saiitander, Texas, Cohahuila, and the kingdom of Leon), Old and New
Califoifiia. \' • •

Wiiat arc railed the TNTSnJfAt. Provincf*:, are New Leon, San-
t.mder, New Bifcay, or Durango, Sonora, Cohahuila, Texas, and Nevw
Mexico. The two fu 11 are fubjeft to the viceroy j the others to the
governor of Chihuahua f. . > ,

• TliopioT'mrr n' Tiirnum«ra i< alfo roprntcHW ni(titione1 hy Tfte'lii, ,xxvii. lao, 131,
i'lKiii;; ilic |,i(iviiict s 01 Nfrt J'.f.Mv, wliicii lir irprcictK* Ri. Im-'uii; ol' iJw f»ni# iiinitiwiih
ill' Vllni|>rir (if DiiTunLfo. >M ulfo A\rti\o, wt. laraumnm twA I'tnuya Xuna. 'U\c
larmiiiiirn Ton, ui" i:* bIIu mptitj'uu'.! liy Uiunlw'dt, tiid ilic nwic npi-uir* ui !ut map.

t Si Hi\iivin|.lt, |i, i.').'., whiri'iii out (•>priige,|ie ini'ltuV'j Nrw Lr: n aii:l S«n-aB<l«r
i"; itc the pio- J ici inmu'.liatrl) I'ul'jr.Vt to tlifx'icrroy, bii>I in mioihtr cx(c|it» iliem, nlong
* '!i lcxa« R'li! ' (ihiiliiii!,!. Ill niiDtlicr pnllHtP, p. so, l.f fav?, the new k'u'iirHotii of
I.f'ni mil Sii.ni.ndtT are |;ovrriK(l by ill* viofrojr of Mcxii- • viiti''' thf lirlcrt rpcu'nt of
Diimii-o, Soiioia, ( (il'iilmll.i, 'l\\tk\>, and New IMtx'.i:o, 'itloug W tbc oomiiuiidaiit jje-
acntlol' ike Innnul liovinvM.

' O a Before

.>..'..

f» t

'! w ^

rt|ffl

[larxii m.

•i' ■■• *

S64

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

Before the divifionioto Intendancies^ in I77(^ the divifions of New
Spain weroy

X. The kingdom of Mexica.

2. The kingdom of New Galicia.

5. The new kingdom of Leon. '

4. The colony m New Santander.

5. The province of Texai.

6. The province of Cohahuih.

7. The province of New Bifcay.

8. The province of Sonora.

$. The province of New Mexico^
lo. The DJif«nmiat»

Thefe ancient divifiom ai« ftiU much trfed in the country. The go.
vernor of Chihuahua is ftyled captain-general, an arrangement whicb
Commenced in 1779. ^* ^* ^^^ called Commaudante-General of the In-
ternal PUDviffces. The Americans contend that X^ouifianaf now ceded
tothemyextemls to the Rio del Norte, while the Spaniards aflunv?, under
the province of Texas, all the regions a» far as the river Mexicano, or
Mermentas to the £. of the river Sabina. The extreme Spanifh fettle-
ments on the N.W. ate the Million of San Francis, to the S. of Cape
Mendocino, and the hamlet of Taos in New Mexico.

Humboldt cftimates the extent of New Spain in fquare leagues of
•if to the degree, at 118,478, and the population in 1803 at 1,837,100*,
being 49 to the fquare league ; but m'olt unequally oiilriDuted, feme
portions prefenting 301, as that of Puebla, while others only contain
one, as that of Old California.

But a confiderable part of the SpaniHi empire in North America has
not been vifited nor defcribed by Humboldt, the Commandancy of
GuATiMALA, which contains the following diftrids, proceeding from
the north towards the fou):h.

1. Chlapa.

2. Vera Pax. Thefe two provinces border on the north with thofe
of Vera Cruz and Yucatan, belonging to the viceroyalty.

3. GuaAmata Proper, which is fubdivided into the oiftnAs of Soconufco,
Suchltepect Sonfonate, San Salvadoft St. Miguel, Tiguef^alpot and Xtm
or Choluteca.

4. Hondurat. . .

5. Nicaragua.

6. Co/la Rica.

The province of Veiearua, though geographically within the bounds
of North America, as admitted by all the Spanim authors, yrt pohti-
cally forms a part of the government of Tiv*rra Firme, in South Anv
rica, under the viceroy of New Granada. It is very monntaun'iuii, and
unhealthy on account of the perpetual niina. It was difcovered by
Culon on his fourth voyage, i $0,), and granted to him and tiii heirs by
the Spanilh monarch, 'fncrc are rich mines ; and the capital is * frrafi
town of the fame name, but often called St. Yago, ai being under tl.
proteAlon of that faiiii f .

Of the two moft fouthcm provinces of tlw government of C/uatii»iila,
Coila Rica, though mountainous, produces excellent cacao or choroiiitr
The name was airived from the rich mines ; one at Tilingal liaviig

* S«j 4,SS7,iOo, (liere bting wi cnui in ilit fum lotal I
t Ak^da tn voce, »-

bttf'

J'lrr « voya|tj.

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

5<55

been reputed another Potod *. Nicaragua is one t{ tlie mod woody
provincei of New JSpain, but the plains are very fertile ; and the
natives are accounted fingalariy ingenious^ efpecially as muficians and
goldfmidis. f

Guatinnala is chicflv celebrated for the produdion of excellent in*
i\go and chocolate, tae latter particularly belonging to the diftridl of
Socoaafco.

The governor of Guatimala k A^4ed Captain General* and can
Scarcely be confidered as dependent on the viceroy of New Spain. It is
one of the moft fertile and populous divifions of the Spanilh fettlements,
and fro^n its volcanie aature producing few mines, the induftry of the in-
habitants is diredked to more ufeful purpofes.

The Intendants atr generally military officers of a certain rank ; and
fince the revolt of our colonies it appears that military governors and laws
are prevalent in thofe of Spain.

Another divifion is that of Audiewces« or fupreme courts of jnftice,
of which there are three ; that of Guatimala { that of Mexico ; and
that of Guadalaxara. This laft extends over the whole northern pro-
vinces ; and it is remarkable* that the bifhoprie of Durango, in the moft
fouthern part of New Bifcay, likewife extends over all thefe provinces:
proofs that their fettlement is very imperfe^, and chiefly maintained by
miflions or religious ftations, one bifhoprie and one tribunal here extend*
ing over a vaft empire.

Original population.] The original population of thefe extenfive
regions was various, confiding of Mexicans, and other tribes ; confi-
derably civilized in the centre, while to the north and fouth were lavage
races. The origin of the Mexicans remains lit great obfcurity, after
the fruitlefs refearches of many ingenious and learned men. Ti^.eir lan-
guage appears to be totally different from that of the Peruvians ; but
' I' Mexican vocabularies are very imperfeA. There feems not however
to be any rcfemblance between either of thefe languages, and that of
the Malays, who peopled the nunM;rou8 iflands in the Pacific Ocean ;
nor arc the Tatarian, or Mandfhur features to bo traced in any account
of the Mexicans or Peruvians, though fingularly diltJ..6> from thofe of
other races. The animals of America are moflly diftir J *"«-om thofe of
the old continent ; nmd could in no cafe have deic«»rded .nin ih.*m. If
it cannot be Jlowed that t^ great Creator, in Lk.<. rnai n^r urdair .-d a
diftinct race *>( men for tim continent, st will be nece Li'/, bef. v 'his
curious queftir.n be determtn*^, to collecV -ocab. i. * of the ^jfiican
langtiagfK, as thftr are on that o<^itiiient ffveral r j*'"*)* wf a coppc' ::o-
loiir, relcnohling the Americans ; and the Mexicatik nwd ' if.-iviai.j might
become moif civilized, from mere advantages o( li*'. r^Mt and acrid(-ht.
It i» however dt^'ply t/> ^e regretted that th*(r An -«c«r empires, or
kingdomB, were dell Mft-d ) as, not to mention the cr '(r of hiunanity,
'hey would have affrtrdod curious ob^As for phil<.i(V^p;iie obferv^rs of
i.uMr* nature. The g'-neral «*pinion U*wii i/. be, that the MexicMx and
P'tiivisiA, vvere a diliinct race (loin tiie u'her Americans; artd amH',t a
ftt„iy tfi ( otiWture^ if mttfM itt vn^uired if they did not proce '♦■u
or he haul/ of tht Uin«> race with the p<K>j^ of th^ largt ilftnd
ika, or S;i^aKan, who4e featu»*-t, as defcnbod and dclifK-ate*' )>v
/ 1 Fi/oiif<-, iinl Lhr lit«r«ry imn who accompanied him, bear no ref«u;«

f*Uif , (It

/'l.Kok

* fUUHit, Hxvii. I7S. TMi tw'iksr gtv* • tulmvhla amount nf CuitiBMlt, b«t it ■
>m(eriuiMtrly(luit|| im^mi (t«m hlimih Sunie |'WU of U>« «6|ik *"i iUn^awd m PmMp
jifr'i vi)y«|w.

Mance

O9 I

■ ''•!» ^*'d nr

^ '*

566

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

blance to the Tataric. In this cafe we may conceive that they arc re.
mains of a people in eaftern Aiia, who were expelled by the Mandfhurs
on their progrels from more weilern fettlements.

Historical Erociis.] The hidonjcal epochs of Mexico have been
of Utile moment fince it was conquered by the Spaniards in 152 1, when
the lall monarch Guatimozin perifhed, Motezuma having died in the
preceding year. According to the Mexican traditions their anceftors
confilled of feveral favage tribes, who about the tenth or eleventh ccn.
tury of the Chiiltian sera moved in fucceffive migrations from unknown
regions towards t'' > north and north-welt, and fettled in Anuhiiac.
About the begiiniing of the thirteenth century a tribi*, more polilhed
than the rell, advanced from the borders of the Califurnian gulf, and
took poffeflioH of the plains adjacent to the great lake near the centre of
the country *. Tliey were for a time governed by chiefs or iudgts, till
the territories becoming more extcnfive, the fupreme authoriiy ctntered
at lait in a fingle perfon. Even from the molt extcnfive »iccounts the
monarchical government had not lafted above 197 years ; that is, it com-
menced about A.D. 1324, the firll monarch being Acamapitzinf.
Wars and rebellions, famines and inundations, contlitute the chief fea-
tures of Mexican hillory ; and the Spanilh government prefents few
events of moment, the natives being confined between the two icas, and
more eafily checked than in South America, where there is a v.ide ex.
tent of territory for retreat and confpiracy.

As the names and fuccelRon of* the Mexican monarchs may interell
many readers, and late Spanifli writers feem to have treated thir, fiibjed
with considerable accuracy, and to have removed feveral received errors,
they fliall be fubjoined from the moll recent accounts J.

1. /IcamaptflU was eK c'led when the Mexicans eilabliflicd thrmftlves
in the lake. He reigned 21 years with del'potic auihorily, though lie
was tributary tt) a neighbouring fuvereign.

2. Huitzhi/juiil, ion of the turmer ; yet not fiiccceding by hercditarv
right, he was eledcd by the chief men of the kingdom : reigned li
years. ... , -..-.

3. Chimalpobocay brother of the former. ' '

• 4. Jzcohudth ion of the liril king by a (lave, ruled with fupronicpriidei;ce.
and was the molt fortuir>'.t<r of the Mexican inonarcl.s, fubduinij mail)-
neiglibounng provinces. He erected two famous temples ; one to the
idol called the Woman Snake, and the other, which was highly cele-
brated, to Iluil^'tlopochdi, thf chief of Jie Mexican divinitiis.

5. MocUcuhzuma, or Moti-zuma I. §, was general of the army, whc:.
he was cholen monarch on account oi his merits and valour. Hu ci 11.
quered leveral neighbouring provinces, or rathir villages and dillriiis.
In the nintli year of his reign the c?pital wa:i inundated by t!ie lake, aiiii
this event was followed by a Itverc tamnie. He reigned 29 years.

6. A}^oyuciUl was alio general when he was eletted, though the c:!riy
Spaniih writers have fuppofed that lu was the fon of his predecellor.

7. 2'izoc was brother of the furmer, but was general when cliolcr

uiUs, lilt

L * BoWitfini't America, v. iii. p. ISA.

^ Fur foiiie u(<oui<t ol ilicl« raoinurcitt, and tluMV ol' tUo ucighbtiuririi
frailer niRy (unlult ( lavig:r<.'.

J Vt<it;(io, Kxvi. 237.

% 'Ih H iiiiiii- hns lici II cMirriipttit, even hy celfhratoil Eii'^lifli writrrs, lo M.iii(ezum«,
%%\i ii wcrr 8|)aiiil)i or Iialiun, whilf other nntioii^ filiffrvr ihi' <<rilin!:ii)[;li\. Thr iiaiM
M<u(^iiin» ik liill I rff'rved ta (Uc liUct ct' fevtijil Sinmifv iamiiics, j>a;Liculari) the Cuuui-
oi Muuv.unm aiiJ Tula. -' at-

. . • * - C fovcnign,

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

S^l

■ con-

fovereign, the one office hieing regarded as a ftep to the othor. The
petty wars of thefe princes are void of all interell ; and the Mexican
monarchy was far from boalling the extent of the P. ruvian. He was'
poifoned in the fourth year of his reign. ' ; ; i

8. Ahuizoil, brother of the former, and alfo commander in chief of
the army. At the dedication of a temple he is faid, inoil magnificently,
to have facrificed 7 2,000 priloners. He obftinately pcrhlted in condudt-
iiig a rivulet to Mexico, though it occafioned an inundation, as had
been predided. Yet he wub regarded as the greateit of the Mexican
kings, and extended the monarchy to the confines of Guatimala. During
liis reign was dil'covered the quarry of the Hone called ts-zontli, with
wiiicli the chief edifices in the city were conllructed. He reigned
18 years.

9. M-jfh'cuhzuma, or Motezuma II., the ninth in the feries of kings,
and not the tlevent'i as Soils pretends, wan the fon of the lixth monarch,
■iiid nephew of the two laih He was elected on account of his great
reputation, though high priett in one of the temples. With the excep-
tion of the war againit the republic of Tlafcala, in which he was unluc-
cefsfnl, he fubducd ieveral provinces, and is faid to have ext^mded the
kingdom to tiie bounds of Nicaragua. He was in the eighteenth year
of lus reign wfien he was attacked by the Spaniards. According to
their writers his education as a priell of fanguinary idols, led him to the
utmolt cuelty, luxury, and pride. He changed the cunili.t.tion of the
Hate, depriving the plebeians of all emnlovnien s, and ordaining death
againll any of them who (hould dare to look him in tiie face. Even the
nobles were reduced to flavery, thoU;jh loaded with idle titles. Am-
biiHudors were ordered to apj)roach in mean dreiles, and to fpeak
in a low voice, while his only anfwer was Ha ; " it is weh." Such was
hi,i luxury, that he every day changed his cloaths mid utonlils, while
the .omen in his haram exceeded .:!5co, and his noble attenda:ns 3000;
hut they were exempted from taxes, while the pio )le paid, fome cf
them, one-third of their property. The letters < f Corte/, the con-
queror of Mexico, prefent fingular details, and procLi:;'.! the luxury gt
Motczuma.

10. CnUhihuatz'iii, or Gu:!fii/iozin, as he is more commonly called,
was brother of Mote/.iim-:i, and was eleded during the war with the
Spaniards. He was taken pri'mu'r, and llraii!;leJb ' orf't.rfif Cortcz, be-
c;uii"e he had plan""d a revolr, af: r having fwo -n hom;\ ^; to the Emperor
Charles V. the \ing of Spain.

The extenlive penini'ula of California was difcovered by Cortez in
1536, but was fo completely neglected, that in moll ehirts it was repre-
tented as an illand *. The .leluiis afterwar^ii exploi\,l this provinee,
and acquired a dominion there as coinpk-te as in Paraguay. On their
expnllioii in ijhh ic was thotiglit to he a not uiiR'rtile rti^ioii, wiih lomt
mines uf gold and u valuable pearl lilhery. The countries of Ciiiidju
and Soiiora, on the ealt fide of the Vermillion fea or gulf of California,
as well ai; the unmenfe p't.vinces of New liiteay, and others on the north-
tall never were fubjedt to the Mexican fceptre, but now ackiiowled^^e
the power of Spain, though the fettlers an- few f . In 1 765 a war broke
•ml with the iav.i.-res, which ended in their fubniiiriun 1771. Diuinjj

■ '^" - ■• --'
• RiilicrtfiMiN Am<iu;«, iii. ii9. 1 .

t ^'tv .Mexici) w;n diOl ifid in ijjj hj Aiitaiiij irKp<*Jo. Case, p. .'>S. uieu^eu* h
*')' ^'l' ilut ua:iw ii» lull ly liuili

O 4 th'ii

y.;*l*l!'iJ!

''i|

jf-: '1

mii^:

^'^1

r. i:;l

..rf

^r -

'1 :

'su -•»

jH^ggJjjg^

568

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

their marches the Spaniards difcovered at Cineguilla *, in the province
of Sonora, a plain of 14 leagues in extent, in which vaft quantities of gold
were found in large lumps, at the depth of only 16 inches. Before the
end of the year 1 77 1 above 2000 perfons were Settled at Cineguilla ; and
other mines not inferior in wealth have been difcovered in other parts of
Sonora and Cinaloa. It is probable that thefe difroveries have in.
ftigated other fettlements ic> the northern parts of New Spain and in
New Mexico. Thefe colonizations, and the fettlement of Santa Fe,
and others in that vicinity, are important events in the hiftory of the
Spaniih territories. It is however to be lamented that the progrefs of
thefe fettlements has not been explained with more care and accuracy,
for no fmall obfcurity attends their chronology.

The hillory of the Floridas is fufficiently known. After having been
contefted between the French and Spaniards, they were yielded to the
En^lifh by the peace of 1763 ; but being regained by the Spaniards
dunng the American war, they were finally aifigned to that nation by
the treaty of 1783.

Antiquities.] The ancient monuments of the Mexicans, fcem chiefly
to confid of a few fymbolical paintings, the colours of which are remark-
ably bright, but the deftgns rude. Some of their ufenfils and ornaments
have alfo been prefervee, but are coarfe and uncouth. Their ediilces
appear to have been little fuperior, being r.rieaaly built with turf and
ftone, and thatched with reeds. The great tenmle of Me&ico was a
fquare mound of earth, only 90 feet wide, partly faced with ftone; with
a quadrangh of 30 feet at the top, on which was a (hrine of the deity,
probably of wood, In fpite of the enthufiaftic fuggeftions of Clavigero,
i'uch a temple would make a incan figure, if placed by the fide of the
Peguan Shi>iikadoo, erected ?X a barbarous and early epoch of the Pe>
gucfe, who are not even nov, pfteemed to be highly civilized. The moft
remarkable monument IHII remaining iit thougnt to bo the aqueduA of
Chempoallan — but the archite^ was a Francifcan mifTionary f ! Our
fanciful author proceeds to prove, from tribute-rolls that the Mexicant
ufed lime ; but the beft proof would have been a few folid walls. As
the firft Spanifh conquerors, in the true fpirit of Mendez de Pinto, de-
Icribed every trifling obieft in the wildeft colours of hyperbole, fo the
warm imagiiiutiun of Clavigero creates wonders for its own admiration,
while in tni' I) the Mexicans appear to have little exceeded the inhabitants
of Earter /{land in any of the arts J.

The uncertainty or the Mexican antiquities have been treated in fo
lively >^ manner by Eftalla, that the reader will t^ot be difpleafed to fee
lot <'.- of his obfervations^.

'* While I was learching in modem Mexico for monuments of the gran-
deur of the ancient io mcch vaunted by our hillorians, and not finding
one trace uf what 'ucy ha.*.' painted, I communicated my doubts to Don
Luis de Trefpalacioc, adjutant maj« of the provincial regiment of that
capital, who kn.iv mp the purity oi my intentions, with the grcateft
generofity offeird to ferve me as guide ; and to his friendihip I owe all

• l*t. noo ao* by Humboidt'i map. f Chvigero, i. 420.

J Carrri, vi. ao4, britfly dcfcrilteii ihe w«», or nynmidi, mar Teoti (iuaran, callH
thofe of tlie fan and moon : but his account i^i brief and unfaiUfaAory, unA (iraj'iii|::t an
wanifd. In the fquare of Otumba it « pyraniM, or rather obeltflc, ot one Ibme ; but the
lieif;li( is not mentioned, nor the totiquiiy. £lUlkk, uvii. A7> •• >

i Viagero, axvi. iiQ9,

that

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

569

that I (hall tell you concerning Mexico *. He laughed at my exagge-
rations and anfwerei in a jeering manner} time muft be very voracious h
America^ fince not being able, in a long feries of ages, to deftroy ths
monuments of the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, here in a very fev
years he has devoured monuments and edifices, which rivalled or ex-
ceeded thofe of the ancient world. But let us leave exaggerations, and
fpeak ferioufly. There are in Mexico no remains of what our hiftorians
have painted : with the pardon of thefe refpe£table men I do not believe
one half of what they boaft. Thofe g^reat j^ilaces, eardens, and temples ;
^ofe immenfe and populous citiet fubjeA to Mexico, and whofe kings
vfere tributary to Motezunoa ; that high and vaft wall which divided tie
Mexican empire from the republic of Tlafcala ; and the other wonde's
related by hiftorians, (hould have Jeft at leaft fome few ruins in teftimoiy
of their exiitence, even granting that the Spaniards entertained the ex-
travagant wiOi of deftroymg all, in order that they might be obliged .0
conftru£l, with great labour and expence, other edifices far inferior.

<• Muft we not think in the fame manner of the relations -foncemiig
the manner and deUcacy with which the Mexicans worked gold »d
other metals i What is become of all thofe precious toys ? They were <n-
harked on board a ihip, it is faid, and were loft. A wonderful empre
which loft in a fmall vefTel all its precious manufaflures of gold ! 1 is
certain that not a particle remains of thefe wonders. Let us fuppof in
the Sptiniards an unneceflary brutality ; let us grant to the fanatic ^as
Cafas that the conquerors, in three or .four years, devoured 50,000^00
of Indians ; (hall we alio imagine that they deftroyed the cities and lag-
nificent edifices, which their own interelt and convenience muft hav led
them to preferve ? Shall we fuppofe they did it with a defign oinot
leaving to the Indians any monuments which might remind them of heir
former power ? Abfurd fuppofition ! The Indians had no occafid for
any monument uf art to remind them that they had emperors, thathey
were conquered by the Spaniards, who thus became their lawfubrds,
againil whom they neither can or ought to revolt ; and if there w» any
neceiiity not to revive the memory of thofe traiilafiiuns, it would e ab-
lurd, on an annual folemnity, tc difplay in triumph the ftand'd of
Cortez, in commemoration of this famous conqaeil.

*' I am far from believing the abfurd calculations uf Las CaftV and
thofe who imitate his extravagance. It appears to me the moft /ident
of human aft'airs, that in all the emrire of Mexico, the populattn did
not furpafs 3 or 4,000,00c, even including the people of Tlafcai, and
ether towns not fubjed to Motezima. But are wc then to fuppie that
a Cortez, a Diaz, and other eye-^ /itnefles of credit, repeated tabhoods
with regard to the grandeur of" Mexico ? Not pofitively ; I «uld rc-
ierve the term uf faueiioods fur thoie relations of hiftorians or tivellers,
who only Itudy to divert the reader with marvellous accountajf non-
aiftcncei, or idle exaggeratiod*. I believe a Cortez, a Dz, and
other witneifes of the ct)iiqueli lu iave beer; men of a very diftVeut cha-
racter, who were naturally furprized at the grandeur of Mexb, from
a companfon with what they had hitherto found in the ifles, aJ on the*
continent of America ; and who, never oonverfant in works ofart, and
thena long time eitranged fror thera, were furprifed at tiu- rudel^xerti )ii9
of this delcription. For a long time they had feen nothing, xcept the
hoveU of tttvages, the rudetl tumiture, and naked tribes, witlKit any po-
licy or regular form of government. In New Spain were tuuixmimcrous

* It inwft be rctntihbcrcd vWt ilic wwtk is lu the forni uF !'<ttcnt to nuJv.

lagcs

570

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

•villages of neater and more regular houfes, and the city of Mexico

appearing very populous, a powerful chief, feme policy, fome buildinjjs

cf great extent, and various objedts of art, which they foncUy com.

pared with the beft produftions of Europe*. All thefe objects they

encountered in a country whofe inhabitants they had previouflv licid in

the meaneft eftimation ; and dazzled with fuch unexpcAed vvealth in

gold, lilver, and precious (tones, their in3amed imagination led them

to extravagant defcriptions. Thus in modern times, the enchanted

iflaads of Juan Fernandez, of Tinian, of Otahiti, painted by vovaTcrs

as h many paradifes of delight, what are they ? Cool judgment .would

fay, — little ifles, more or lefs agreeable. But fliall we fay that thefe

refpeftable voyai^ers have tola faliehoods ? No. Tliey arrived fiitijiued

wth the uniform and melancholy fpctlacle, which a tempeftuous fea ii^d

pefented during many months jf navigation, wearied beyond expref.

lioii fick, deprived almoil of the necclTaries of life ; the mod rocky

anl defart ifland would in their eyes, have affumcd the charms of pa.

raafe. Kut happily finding an ifland covered with verdant trees, uirh

friits, with faluiary plants, diverfified with cryftaline rivulctd, poffeiFed

byhumane and beneficent inhabitants, eager to relieve their numerous

wats, fliall it be thought llrange that no e>:prcinons coidd equal their

feengs, in defcribing thefe countries ; though there were in fad no-

thi(5 which they themfclves '//ould not ha\^e defpifed in other circum.

ftanes. From thefe examples may be feen the real caufe of the cx-

aggrations of our hilloriaus and conquerors ; and if to this be added

the "elf-interelt which they had to magnify the grandeur of their con-

qutfi, there is little room to be furpriled at their relations.

**Cqually abfurd and fabulous is the nun^erous population afcribcd
to acient America by Las Cafas, who, by his inl'ane ambition and
fanat;ifm has impreffed an indehble ftaiii upon the Spaniih name, ca-
lumn.ting the conquerors with the blackeH and moil horrible inipof.
tures. This hypocrite, who pretended fo much love of humanity, was
the vy man who began the flave trade ; by whofe fatal counlels the
unhapy negroes were torn from their country to perifli in America.
Atro«jus advice ! accurfed advifer ! whofe name ought to be ex-
ecrate by all real lovers of humanity, as having caufed- the deftnic.
tion o j;, 000,000 of negroes. How could he preterd love to the In.
dians,vho was fo cruel to the negroes? A wild ambition, a fero.
cious jleen, on feeling the complete difappointment of his inordinate
expeftiions, were the caufes that inflamed his anger againd the Spa-
niardi, nd flimulated hira to fo many calum.nies a»d impolhires. Who-
ever eimines with impartiality the hiftorians, on the contrary will
clearly erceive, that New Spain is much more populous at prefent thsn
in the tne of Motezuma, though Mexico, and trie other lar;,je tovns,
might q»n then have appeared niaguiticcnt, when compared with wh.t
had pret)ufly been difcovercd. It may even be aflirmed, on the moll
fecure h^udation-s that there are at prefent more Indians m the king.
dom of k'lexico, than e\illed at the time of the coiMpielt ; hr tli,'
iucntuj, r regidcrs of the Indians, which are renewed every live
years, leie to denionttratc that there is always an increale, and never
a diminutn : if by chance there be fewer families of Indians, it i-
becaufe tly are mingled and confounded with the Spaniards, for man\
daughters f Cacics have married Europeans; and anujng the ancel'oiv
oi the prfent Spaniards were many of that delcriptiou : and it r

Oi iihei of Spain, where the arts were not \«ry bnlliunt al that [-friod.

ccrt:i::

'I'"
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uil;

thi':,

■;ns

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

5"7i

tertain that though women paffed from Spain to marry the conquerors,
yet finding them lame and wounded, they defpifed fiicli hulbands, and
refufcd the propofcd alliances ; whence the men enraged at their fquea*
niiflinefs, repaid them with equal contempt, and wedded the moft con-
fiderable among the Indian females. It is true that no Indians remain
in the Spanifh Weft India Iflands ; but the people there cnlled JibaroSf
what are they but Indians mingled with the Spanifh race ? They have
110 connection, in colour nor form, with the negroes nor the mulat-
toes. When I fay that there is a confiderable augmentation apparent
from the regillers of the Indians, I do not mean that the account
(liall be taken for any particular year, in which there may have been a
contagious diforder, or even for any particular fpace of five years ; not
forgetting, however, that thefe regifters always fall fliort of the truth,
there being many cauO?s why the Indians fhould wifli to efcape men-
tion in thefe records ; but that a judgment be formed from a fair and
progreffive examination.''

The chief remaining antiquities of the Mexicans appear to be earthen
ware, in wliich the Indians of Guadalaxara and Mechoacan excel to
this clay, as the Tarafcas of the Peribanos in that of japanning, the
black colour hilling as long as the wood itfelf, while the figures equal
thole of the Chinef ; artills, and the gilding i.i gold and filver is of great
hnlre atid permanency '•'.

Tlie other Mexican antiquities, according to Humboldt, are the
ruins of dykes and aqueducts ; the Hone of facrifices, with a relievo
rcprefcnting the triuirph of a Mexican king; a cololfai llatue of a god-
dcfs ; the liieroglyphical pic'kures on paper made of i kind of caclus, or
deer fldns, and cot ion cloth ; the foundations of a palace at Tezcuco :
and a colufllil rvlievo on a porphyritic rock. The ancient weapcins
and knives of facrifice are of oblidian, //s///, of which a kuid of
quarries w^as wrought in the porphyritic mountains of Oyamel
and Vacal, whence the Spaniards call that part the mountain of
kiiivcs.

The ruins at Mitla, in the intendancy of Oaxaca, are fingular, as
they prefent fix columns of what Humboldt calls horneblende por-
phyry, probably the bafalt of the ancients. They have neither bafes
ncjr capitals.

Near the river Gila are the ruins called Cafa Grande, fuppofed
to have been an early relidence cf the Mexicanr. Fragments of
earthern ware are found mixed with piecea of wrought obfidian, fo
that there nmll have been fomc volcanic country on their progrefsf .

* Viagero, xxxi, Q-3.1, llumliolcU fiievveil iit Paris u liuft tthuli lie had atqviiiTcl in
MiiNKo, ot which ilic L(':ul <h< Is riulely rrft m'.jli'il the uiic'u'iit li;;Apnaii. He Lud ullo
a parajjlilet, Idie.y j.iiinfd sit Mi;xkc), ou fouic antiquities recently difi'Ovtred. Vet I
have I'ctii i.oiliih^ lo InJitatc that the people of Mf^xico cxct'lhtT in itifenuity thofc of
the Somii Sia, cxir-pi iu fomc :;Jvuui.(^fs of lituation, particularly in the abundance of

t llunib. ibo. 261. 39S.

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573

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

:•- ,^

CHAPTER II.

POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Religion.— 'Government,-— Population.— jlrmy. -—Navy. ^-Revenue.—

Political Importance.

1 ^ T^HE religion of the Spanifli fettler? in thefe provinces

KELiGioy.j Ji^ jjj ^^,jj kno^n Jo ijg jhe Roman C^itholic, and of

fuch a fort as gpreatly to impede indullry or profperity, for it is com-
puted that one-iifth part of the Spaniards confiit of ecclefiaftics, monks,
and nuns ; and that country muft be miferably defeftive in which the
Jefuits were of diftingiu(hea induftry. The eftabliniment of the inqui.
fition, and the llrange fanaticifm of the Spaniards, who difgrace the £u>
ropean name, have not only cruflicd all fpirit of exertion, but have pre-
vented the admixture of other Europeans, whofe induftry might improve
their fettlements, and whofe courage might defend them.

The religion of the ancient Mexicans appears to have been chiefly
founded on fear, the temples being decorated with the figures of de*
ftru£live animals : and fails, penances, voluntary wounds, and tortures,
formed the effence of their rites. Human facrifices were deemed the
moll acceptable ; and every captive taken in war was cruelly tortured and
facrificed. The heart and head were the portion of the gods, while the
body was refigned to the captor, who, with his friends, fealled upon it.
The extinftion of fuch a ferocious people may not be worthy of much
regret : but modern philofophy is apt to decide on a flight and imper.
feft view.

Thus, inftead of a benevolent deitv, the worfliip of the Mexicans
nny be (aid to have been dire£led to the evil principle of fome oriental
natio!)s, whom all their efforts were ftretched to appeafe. 'In the Mexi-
can language Teotl was a general term for any divinity ; and in obfcure
theory they believed in a creator whom they llyled Ipalnemoata, that is,
*' he by whom we live :*' but their fupreme deity was rather that evil
fpirit called KlacatecolototU or the rational oivlf whofe delight was to in-
jure and terrify. They believed in the immortality of the foul, and a
kind of tranfmigration ; the good being transformed into birds, and the
bad into creeping animals. The principal deities were 13 in number,
among whom were the fun and moon ; and Tlaloc, the god of water,
was the mailer of paradife ; but Mexitli^ the god of war, received the
chief adoration. There were other gods of iht mountains, of commerce,
&c. and the idols, rudely formed of clay, wood, or ilone, fometimes
decorated with gems and gold, were :iumerous. One was compofed of
certain feeds, palled together with human blood. The priefts wore a
black cotton mantle, like a veil ; and there feem to have been orders of
monks, as among the eaftern nations of Afia. The aufterities andvolun-
tary wounds of the priells, their poifonous ointments, and other abomi-
nable rites, even as related by Clavigcro *, evince that the entire fyltem
was the moft execrable that has ever appeared on the face of the earth,
alike blafphemous to God, and pernicious to man. The whole is fo
totally unlike any lyllcm ever pradifed in any part of Afia, that there
is additional caule to believe that the people were either indigenal, or

* See i. l?>, a father invirrd tu the lacrifice nf his daughrer: am* S33, die human
viaima iacritici'd at the coufcaaiiuu uf two ieinj>lc> were l'J,'j]o t.

have

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

S7$

have proceeded from Africa, in which alone (as among the Giagas) fuch
cruelties may be traced. The Afiatic religions feem univerfally- mild,
jad even gay, as natural in the worOiip of a being who is benevdience
itfelf ; while in Africa the preponderance of the evil fpirit feems to have
been acknowledged by many nations. Certainly the Spaniards never fa-
criliced more viAims than the Mexicans themfelves devoted ; and the
clamours of pretended philofouhy will often be found in oppofition to
the real caufe of humanity, which it afpires to defend. Could a change
of manners have been eSe&.ed without the ufe of the fword, it would
have been highly deurable ; but the defign might have been as fruitlefs
as a fermon to a tyger or a rattlefnake. The cruelties of the Spaniards
mud, by candour, be partly imputed to the profuHon of torture and
human blood which every where met their eyes in this unhappy country,
as fuch fcenes change the very nature of man, and inflame him like the
carnage of a battle.

Numerous bilhoprics and archbifhoprics have been inftituted by the
Spaniards throughout their American poirefTions ; but the ecclefiaftic
geography, if even accurately arranged from the late ft information, would
httle intereft the general reader. The prelates are nc ted by the king ;
and the decorations of the churches are exceflive.

The archbiftiopric of Mexico is extremely opulent, but ftill efteemed
iaferior to the bifhopric of Puebla de los Angeles. The ccclefiadical
courts are numerous ; and the Holy Tribunal pf the Faith, or in other
words the inquifition, is extremely vigilant and fevere *. The chapter
of the cathedral comprehends twenty.ux ecclefiaftics. While the reve-
nue of the archbifliop is computed at 100,000 dollars; the dean has
more than 10,000 ; the canons from 7 to 9000 ; the lefler canons from
2 to 4000. AJl the curates are named by the viceroy, from a lilt of
three propofed by the biftiop, but the firft is always preferred. Some
curacies are worth many thoufand ducats ; and one in the archbifhopric
of Mexico is valued at 14,000 ducats a year ; while many of the curates
run a career of ambition, and become prebendaries and bifhops. For-
merly the religious orders held many curacies ; but at prefent they are
chiefly bellowed on fecular prieftsf .

There are two archbifhoprics, thofe of Mexico and Guatimala;];, with
eight bifliops, Puebla de los Angeles, Oaxaca, Durangd, Mechoacan,
Antequera, Guadalaxara, Yucatan, and Chiapa. The curacies are com-
puted at «3j^, which may be regarded as a proof of a very thin popula-
tion, the pariflies in the little kingdom of Portugal being computed at
4000.

Government.] The ancient government of Mexico was an here-
ditary monarchy, tempered however by a kind of eleftion not unknown
in the barbarous ages of Europe, by which a brother or nephew of the
late king was preferred to his fons. Defpotifm feems to have begun
with the celebrated Motezuma. Tliere were feveral royal councils, and
claffes of nobility, moftly hereditary. The nobles were ttyled pil/i or
tialoani ; but the Spaniards introduced the general term of cazii, which
Clavigero fays fignifies a prince in the language of Hifpaniola ; but is
by fome aflerted to imply a prieft among the Mahometan Malays. Land

* ElUlla, xxvi. 2S!1.

f Alcedo, art. Nvfva Efpana.

I New Spain is divided into four archbiflioprif s, Mfxico, Guadalaxana, Duranqo, and
San Luis de Pottifi. No where does the inquifuion exrrt (0 oppreiiive and cruel power.
No where is the human mind fo crulhcd and abafcd. Pike,

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SPANISH DOMINIONS.

Was not fuppofed to belonpr to the monarch, but was alienable by the
proprietors. As writing was unknown there was no code of hvvs, but
Clavigero has preferved lome traditions ' on the fubjeA. Their armour
and ta6iic8 appear to have been extremely rude.

It is fuppofed that the Mexican empire commenced about the Chrif.
tian year I^ao. The fovereigns fcem to have been chofen indifFereiitly
from the royal family. The political fyllem was feudal, there bein^ jq
families which compofed tlie firft clafs in the Hate, and each of them had
many thoufand vaffals. In the fecond clafs there were about 3000 fami«
lies ; the vaffals being in fail flaves, while the lords had the power of
life and death.

The laws were very fevere ; and numerous crimes were capital. As
in Japan, the fons of the great were, during their abfence, retained as
koftagcs at the court.

Each province was fubjeft to a tribute, excepting certain nobles", who
were obliged to take the field with a certain number of vaffals, the chief
charafkerillic of the ancient feudal fyflem in Europe.

The viceroyal'y of Mexico may be regarded as the chief in Spanifh
America* and is extended over a territory equal to an European empire.
But there are feveral inferior governors, named by the Spani(h fovereiirn.
The large domain of Guatimala is ruled by a prcfident, who is alfo ftip.
tain-greneral, or commander of the troops. The interior provinces alfo
form a feparate prefidency : but the northern provinces being chiefly
held by religious fettlements, the civil authority is lefs confulercd than
the ecclefiaitic. A lieutenant-governor of the two Californias prefides at
Monterey. The government of Florida is of fmall importance.

No fmall. part of the viceroy's power confifts in the patronage of all
th^ churches. His falary was formerly 40,000 ducats, afterwards 60,000,
and laftly 84,000, cxclufiveof the dii'pofal of lucrative offices, monopo.
lies, coooivances, prefents, '8cc. whicli fometimcs arife to an enormous
amount *. His court is formed on the regal model, with horfe and foot
guards, a grand houfehold, and numerous attendants. The feries and
hiftory of tne viceroys may be found in the work jf Alcedo f .
. There are three prand tribuna's, called Royal Audiences, that of
Guatimala, that of Mexico, and that of Guadalaxara. The Rr^rnte,
Grand Oidor, or chief judge, is an officer of great importance. The
Ajcordada, or Holy Drotlierhood, forms a powerful engine for the piitiifli-
mcnt of crimes, and employs about 10,000 perfonsj. There are alfo
feveftl inferior tribunals, which docide fmall caufes without expencc, and
with great promptitude. Tiie gn;ater rt/tuWa*, or baili^wivks, in New
Spain are computed by Alcedo at 128 ; thofe of Guatimala at 27 : but
he does not (pecify thofc of the third audience. Thiery has defcribed
the juftice of the little country Alcalds from his own perfonal ex-
perience.

Population.] The population of all the Spanifli provinces in North
America has been edimated at little more than 7,000,000 { of whom the
natives, called Indians, are fuppofed to amount to 4,000,000 ; and the
Spaniards and inhabitants of mh:cd races are cuinputed at 3,000,000, of
which the Spaniards may conilitute one-third. This calculation is how-
ever confidercd as liberal, while it is probable that the whole population
of Spanifli North America docs not exceed 6,000,000; nay^as w>\l after*

• ERalla, xitvt. <>s:i. f A(t. Nu€va ^/pana.

X Sm allerwardt tUc tccouitt of the cspiul.

itt*'-

wards

SPANISH POMINIOKS.

57S

wards appear) it is far lefa *. The fmall-pox is remarkably fatal ; and
the black vomit, already mentioned as allied to the yellow fever of the
United Slates, aAs at intervals with the ravages of a peililence. The
number of prtefts, monks, and nuns is alfo injurious to population ;
which, however, appears upon the whole to have greatly increafed. Iq
1612 the inhabitants of Mexico were computed at 15,000 ; they are now
140,000 f.

The population of New Spain is compofed of the fame elements with
the other Spaniih colonies. There are feven races : i. Individuals bom
in Europe, vulgularly called Gachupines ; 2. Creole Spaniards, or whites
of European race born in America; 3. The Metis (MeJli%ot)t defcen-
dants of whites and Indians ; 4. Mulattos, defcendants of whites and
negroes ; 5. Zambos, defcendants from negroes and Indians ; 6. The
fame Indians, or the indigenous copper race ; and 7. The African
negroes. »

The population of America, before the European conquell, appears
to have been greatly exaggerated, as tifual in every cafe of the like na-
ture; and from rough calculations, offered even by clailioal authors, per-
haps foiir-fifths may be always dedu£led. That this is the cafe at lead with
the difcoverers of new countries, may be judged from our own enlightened
times, in which the Engliih voyagers to Otaheite fuppofed the inhabi-
tants to exceed 100,000, wlien, upon a6fcual enumeration, there were
found little more than 16,000. It is probable that when America was
(lifcovered, the whole population, including the Weft Indies, did not ex-
ceed 4,000,000. Befides the ufual miiiakes, there was an additional
fource of exaggeration, as the Spanifli conquerors, like knights^rrant,
counted hundreds by thoufatids ; and the oriental vein of hyperbole, in-
troduced by the Moors, has tainted the early Spanifh authors. If we
allow that a hundred or two of Europeans could fubvert a mighty Ame*
rican empire, we muil imagine that fts armies were fmall, as well at
cowardly and unlkilful.

Eftalla has juftly obferved, that even the benevolent fettlements oC
Pcnn have greatly diminifted the number of natives in their vicinity ; and
he proceeds to explain the caufes of this decline, though not in ilridt ac-
cordance with his former arguments above recited, in which he attempts
to deny that any diminution exifts \. He fays that one of the chief
caufes why the population has not augmented in a greater degree, is the
little care formerly taken to avoid epidemical diforders ; while latterly
effeAiial progrefs has been made in this benevolent purpofe. The clean-
fing of the Itreets, the evacuation of Handing waters, an exa6l police,
th(.' ncatnefs of the infide of the houfes, perfonal cicanlinefs, and many
other caufes which contribute to health have attrafted tlie attention of
the latter viceroys ; and it is to be hoped that all the caufes of peltilential
(iifeaies will in time b^ remedied.

It is well known that the fmall-pox is extremely fatal to the natives of

* From the recent tnvali of Ilelmi, it appcwi that the population in Mexico is far fu-
prriur to tlut of Titu.

t taieri in 1697 iOtnpuied litem ot 100,000. Humbofdt, in what he rails a Statlftictt
Vlfw of New Spiin, G(\imates the numhir of inlwliitatttt of the Jiiterukniry of Mexico at
l,M1^,SttO, the fquAfe teagurs at 5,Qti7, and the inhabitants of rarh fqunre leni^ie at
35 J. niii truly ini|Mrtan( information he lepeuts on the itiiiginof lOOjiairos; and thia
rurioun example of (icnnan phlegtn is uhfurdly copied by tiie iM'^liih iraiifliaor !

J ViM;;ero, xxvii, 196. The lUiia no longer cxifta in New Sjaiii. The Indian may
work m iltg luiitea, or ^oofc any vther labuui^ or ha maj pfs from one mine to another
aihisitdi.

CI . i' . ^ America,

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

Amencaf OH aecount of the thickneis of their flcios* which prevents the
paflaffe of the noxious matter. This mahuly appears at confiderable in.
tervab of time ; and on its kit appearance lb great attention wras paid
to the flck, that there periflted not one-fourth part of the ufual
number. The charity of the Spanifli Mexicans fparra no effort ; and fo
great were the contributions, that 70,000 dollars remained after all the
neceflities of the iick had been abundantly fuppUed.

The fame author obferves, " that though he has not been able to ac-
quire exaA information concerning the population of New Spain, yet
by the mod intelligent computations, there are in the Intendancy of
Mexico 1,200,000 fouk, including 140,000 for the city. And by the
proportion between this province and the others, as well as by the beft
founded calculations, it may be fuppofed that there are, in all the king.
dom, 3,^00,000 inhabitants *."

M. Thiery, from the information of a well informed officer in the
Spanifh government at Vera Cruz, (ays, that from Panama to California
and SoBora on the one fide, and from Carthagena to the Miffiflippi on
the other, ind'^^ing a furface of more than 2,000,000 of fquare leagues,
the a£lual enumerations did not prefent 1,000^000 of fouls, comprizing
not only all the Spaniards, but the Indians, mingled races, and negroes f.
This would be truly furprizing, as the population of the Spaniin domi-
i)ions in North America is underftood to be &r greater in proportion
than of thofe in the fouthem part of that continent. But upon the whole
there was reafon to believe, after the perhaps partial eftimation of Eftalla,
compared with the furprizinff diminutUMi awgned by M. Thiery, that
the whole population of the Spanift pf^effians in North America could
in no cafe exceed 3,0OO|Ooo. But b 1794 the popubtion of New
Spain appeared, from reports made to the viceroy, to be 41483.529.
In 1803, Humboldt eftiinates the inhabitants at 5,8oo,ooo» and in 1808
at 6,500,000!.

Army. 3 The minute accoiut of the Mexican forces, publiibed by
Eilalla, is a truly fingular document } and it may be doubted whether the
publication was llri£Uy coniiftent with the maxinu of political prudence.
It would appear, fo far as a calculation can be made where the numberi
are not always given, and thofe omitted being fuppoicd 3000* that the
troops in New Spaio are as follow t

Regulars • • 5^9^*

Militia, ftc. • S^iS*3 '

Carrifom, &c. • 5,686

Total 43,191$

This is certainly a confiderable force | bat the local fervices of the
garrifons can Scarcely be difpenfed with ) and thofe of jOiOOO Spaniih
militia, at a time when even the armies of that cmmtry are uttle celebrated,
may be fuppofed only formidable to favages. The chief reliance would
of courfe be placed in the regulars, who by aM accounts are very ill
armed and accoutred. And uter this folemn enumeration, ic may well
be doubted whether the whole |prand vicerMralty of New Spain could
fcod into the field 15,000 effirftivc men. Tnis province fieemi not bow.

* Vitgero, unrii. 19.
' I P. 57. He drfervw tMff rw!S».

t Thiery, i, 19s.

I Pikf rofnjniieii the regdar fnrre of Ntw Spain at •3,9*9. Ihs militia, of littl*
mnre confa^uanca tlian the AboriglyM, be eAlmstei at 1 39,900.
• ^ , . . t3 «^cr

-y

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

ever to fliare tlie domeftic difcontents which have appeared in fome
of the others, having been generally favoured by the Spanifh monarchs,
who juftly regard it as the ncheil jewel in th«ir crown.

Revenue. J The Spanifh armies in America muft however depend,
in a great meafure, upon the fupplies fent from the parent country; the
navy is alfo that of the parent country ; but there are piany guard- (hips,
and commercial vefTels, fololy appropriated to Uie American colonies*.
The revenue which Mexico yields to the Spaniih crown has been (hewn
by Dr. Robertfon to amouftt to above 1,000,000 fterling, but there are
great expences. By the moll recent account, the total revenue derived
by Spain from America and the Philippines, is 2,700,000!. of which
one-half muft be deducted for the extravagant charges of adminiilration.
It has been aiferted, that the king's fifth of the mines of New Spain
only was a,ooo,ooo fterling, which would fwell the annual produce of
the Mexican mines to 10,000,000. Dr. Robertfon (hews, from Campo-
manes, that the whole produce of the American mines j| 7,425,oool.«
of which the king's fifth, if regularly paid, would be i^^.S^.oool., and
it is probable that the mines of New Spain or Mexico, prior to the opu-
lent difuoveries in the north-weft provinces, did not yield above one-half
of the whole amount f.

The tythes of the cathedral churches at firft belonged entirely to the
crown, and the clergy were paid from the, royal treafury ; but this plan
has fince been altered. It is unneceiTary to enter into the details on this
fubjeft. The tythes of Patiuco, New Leon, and Arifpe, in Sonora,
produce 60,000 pefos. In other provinces the ninths are deduAed for thtf
ufe of the king, and valued at 190,000 pefos. Thefe ninths are thus
ellimated : of four equal parts, two are allotted for the bifhop and chap-
ter, and the other two are divided into nine portions, namely, two for
the king, three for building and repairing the church and hofpital, two
lor the ialaries of the curates, and the two remaining are difpof«d by the
chapter in paying dignitaries, canons, prebends, and other perfons em-
ployed in the church. The annates, paid by ecclefiaflies in the royal
nomination, are of half a year's revenue ; but the fmaller livings, which
ilo not exceed 413 ^^r^ four reals, only pay a month. This branch
clears 6$,ooo ptjot. That on the archbifhoprics and bifhoprics is uncer-
tain, and o( rare occuivence. It was propofcd to raife fix per cent, oa
all ecclefialUcal benefices.
I Civil officers pay half a year's falary, which is alike demanded on
117 advancement or augmentation. This tax might clear 68,949 p-fos.
It is join^ with that of the tiths of Caftille;^, which yields 13,^60.
The ute of offices produces 30,009} that of lands and (tpmporition for
deledive titles, only 2,500.

" The extraordinary fpndnefs of the natives for cock-fighting gave rife

* Four cmvettM of 14 cum, and one ^letu, tre (Utionfld at Monttray, to fnpply ilxr
prrfiileiuie^ of Nonli California with nvrrfl'arii't. Ttiefe velTel* pcrfonacd the S|>aniUt en*
IKdItiunit to the north-weft coaft of America. La Peroufe, ii. 307.

t The pffofutrU of Sitain, called piajlrefurtf, is worth from five fWinel to five (ranct
'•;;l\t fout, or about 4t. Od. but that of commercr U ideal, and is only worth three Vntti
in fous of Fitacti, equal to tliirty-two and a lialfpcnce fterling. 8i«tT-lbttr pe/61 dimt,
otfutrUif Juft equal *i mA* dr cumMa. Ai the latter are cUmy ufed in commere« und
icrouBU, it ii to be fupiiued they are here intended 1 but fee a filttfiP. in the article poyJ«,
which indieatca that Bftalta ufra the hard dollar. Even Dr. Rnbertfon'i calculatiuna, >?t l\ii
hiftory of Anoierica, are fubjeil to this difficulty. Bourgoing inGwi all A» colonial acn'untt
t'< bf In hard dollan. They an al««yt [ft hard dollen, ai tppctis frsn Husboldt t and Hi*
Rultmfon't calcidattont flMuhi be ail ic-codUered. ^

; A kiadoi tatm cbneUtA.

^^ Fp

Ifi

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

to a formal eftablilhment in favour of this diverfion, accor^trg to oqr
author, much mere rational than bull fights, whence a revenue to the
royal treafury of not lefs than 50,000 pfos ; and in order to increafe
this advantage, a hall or theatre was conltru£led in the village of San
Au^ftin de las Coevas, much frequented by the citizens of Mexico
dunng Eafter. This (building colt 6,838 pefis \ and in two years and
dght mbnths had yielded 1,740 /</««."

A tax on leather was impoled by delire of the (hoemakers. Snow an^
ice are monopolized in Mexico and other chief towns of New Spain ;
tlie produA is about 30,000 pejos. That of liamped paper clears 60^000:
all the copper produced in the mines of this viceroyalty is bought
611 the king's account, and depofited in the royal magazines, whence
k 1!! fent to the mint, or fola to artisans and others: but the gain
S» only 1,600 /f/ar> That on lead is only five per cent, amounting
-to about -So dollara a year \ while the tenth of alum is 4,446. « A
'Vcat of tin, yrhkb i« wrought near Durango, pays ten per cent, beinp
180AJ/&,." '

The voluntary donations, chiefly given by the loyalty of the Mexicans,
%ary according to circumftances. Thofe on occafion of the latl war
againft France amounted to ^gi, •] 10 pefos ; of which 98,699 were annual
during the continuance of holtiKties. The fam would have been greater
if the donation had not been preceded by a loan to the fovereign, with>
•ut any iotereft, of 5,967,000/^/0/.

The culloms and other taxes payable at Vera Cruz are too minute and
prolix to deferve infertion ; and there are fome other provincial duties in
the like predicament. There is a tax of nine peliu upon each negro
brought to the port of Campeche ; and it were well if every government
raifed a high tax upon this traffic. A fliip of the Philippines pays at
Acapulco 2000 pejbi. The duties payable at the garrifon of Carmen
(probably that at the mouth of the Lagooa of Terminos, but there it
alfo an ifle fu called in the gulf of California) amount to 2%6fe/<u only.
The pearl fifliery of California formerly yielded a confiderable revenue,
but it is at prefent abandoned, tliough with hopes of its fpeedy revival.
The whole revenue appears to have been about i,500»oooK Iterling.

Political importance.*] The political impoatance of colonies is of
courfe merged in that of the parent country. If the fpirit of higotiy
could be fupprefled, which negleds every worldly concera, and u the
Spanifli colonies were thrown open to the induftry and enterprife of fo*
reignerSf they mi^ht recover from their enfeebled ftate* and oppofe a
boB front to any mvaders. In the prefent fitmtion of affair!, perhapl
found policy wqjild ^ven diflate their emancipation, on condition of pav*
bg an annual tribute, which might even be more confiderable than the
jarefent revenbe* from the fuppreflion of ufelefs offices and emolumentii
and the iektortion of powerful individuals, which yields nothing to the
revenues of Spain *. Dr. Robertfou has obferved that the Mexican ^*
zettes are filled with defcriptions of religious proceflions, and edifyiog
aoeounti of the confisovtions of churches, feftivals, and beatifications of
faints, and other fuperfthioud baubles, while civil and commercial affain
occupy little attention. The advertifements of new books /hew thilt
two-thirds are treatifea of fchohttic thoology and ihonkiih devotion,
Even this ftate of affairs is better than tlie fanguinary idolatry of the

• In 1797 the Count dt Gatvez ws* proclaimed king In tlie ftnets of Mexico) but lit
lonity Induce:! him to qutfli the infiinpeAioii. The KMinl wu that Its wm poifoiied baa
tneo b«>i^ regarded as too powerful jTor a ful^eA. Pikt.

natives:

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

M 0(

rotty

if fo.
K>fe t

buitui
kiedloon

lativei :

natives t but few exertions of ability or induftry can bo expefted from
fuch fanatics ; and it may eafily be predifled that a continuance of this
fpirit would render the people as unfit for war as for pacific enterprizes ;
and that if Spain do not amend her colonial fyftem, her rich poifeffions
will, at the firit onfet, become a prey to their northern neighbours.

New Spain is in a (late of military dependence on Havana, which is
the only neighbouring port that can receive fquadrons, and is the moft
important point for the defence of the eaftern coaft of New Spain.

The remarks of a late Spanifh author on this important fubjeft de-'
ferve fome attention *, " The mode of making war with the favages on
the frontier provinces is very different from that of Ejurope, as it confiftn
in fudden invafions of the Indict bravot, or wild natives, after which they
retire to the interior of their country, where it is very difficult to p\)riue
them. For this purpofe there are light companies, as well in the three
provinces fubje£^ to th? viceroyalty, (that is, the three audiences,) as Iq
thofe tbftt are independent ; but peace is always preferred, and we only
make war in cgnfcquence of their invafions.

" The fituation of New Spain fecures it from any foreign invafion*
There is no haven on the eaft fave that of Vera Cruz, ftrongly defended
by a cattle and fortifications, and IHU more by the north winds, which pre*
vent any fquadron from remaining long on the coaft.

« On the fide of the Pacific Ocean there i» no nation that would under-
take a formal expedition^ on account of the great ej^pence and wafle of
time, not to mention the hazards of the pafTage. Still more in^poilible
would be an invafion by the province of Texas ; becaufe, not to fpeak
of the immenfe didance, the paffage of an army wo^ld be found impoifi?
ble, through fo difficult a country, void of means of fubfiftence," He
then proceeds to mention the want of water, and tke difficulticis which
M. Pa^^s encountered, without hinting a fufpicion that his journey is a
mere forgery.

This worthy patriot thus afFeAs to conceal the chief danger, that from
the United States, though he fpeaks in jufl terms of admiration of their
exertions, and of the fpirit and taletfts of the inhabitants. The rumoured
war between Spain and the Syites, on account of the boundaries of
Louifiana, might foon reveal that the province of Texas, inftead of
wanting water, fuffers from its abundance, and perhaps the fole impedi*
meat would be to diflinguiih the niarfhes from the verdant meadows.
The chief difficulty would be for the States to find troops, for their
brave militia would iiot eafily.,)}e induced to quit their homes and families
tor this diflant warfare ; efpecially as the States have already 'too much
knd, and their wifdom would perceive that the acquifition of mines, an4
toocafy wealth, at this period, might obftru£^ a far more important
obje£l, the cultivation of their own territory, and its g^dual extenfion
towards the Pacific, fo as to command the Eafl India tradet But if the
conteft became ferious ; if the honour and laiting advantage of the United
States were once fuppofed to he implicated, they comd by <^ne effoft
fend a fufficient force to feize the whole empire of Metico, the difficulty
being in the march, and not in the battle ; and after an eaiy conquef^i
open a grand canal between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, ilnd com*
mand a prodigious conunerce** Let me not however be again accufed hj
the prefident of the French fenate f of wifhingj^to excite wi|r« among aQ

•Gfttllt.nnrii. 9IS.

t FMofob De ^|•lllrh•l«ni, TtUmu in vtm fue fi pr^fi h ^s^'fi^M JngUift*
Puis, 1S04, trOf

Pp» Wti#ui|

5flo

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

cations, becaufe the nature of my work required fome puatical remarks
in the event, alas 4 toe natural, that neighbouring nations (hould feme*
times enter into hoftilities. No : could my humble whifper command
attention, peace and amity would encircle the globe j and nations fliould
only be rivals in tlie arts, the fciences, and general beneficence.

ii.'y i"5

CHAPTER III.

CIVIL GEOGRAPHY.

Manners and Cujioms. — Language. — Education. — CU-s and Tonvnt. —
EdyUej,—~Manufa8uresandCommerie.

m™ - CUSTOMS.: T"lr3 l^u"t'«nfr

thors, but a few fmgularities may be here mentioned. A peculiar fea.
ture of the Mexican language was, that a termination, indicating refpett,
might be added to every word. Thus, in fpeaking to an equal, the
word father was /<?//, but to a fuperior tatzin. They had alfo reverential
Tcrbs, as appears from Aldama's Mexican grammar. Thus, as cowards
are always cruel, the moit ferocious people in the world were at the fame
time alfo the mod fervile and obfequious. Their wars were conilant and
fanguinary ; and their manners in general correfponded with this barba-
rous tHfpofition, the principal warriors covering themielves with the ildns
of the lacrificed vi^ims, and dancing through the flreets *. The year
vras divided into iS months, each of 28 days ; and five days were added,
which were dedicated to feftivity. They cultivated maize and fome roots ;
but their agriculture was rude, and they were ftrangers to the ufe of
money. Qn the death of a chief, a great number of his attendants were
facrificed.

But fince the progrefs of Chridianity, and the' long eftabhfliment of
a foreign yoke, the manners have become more mild and amiable. So
extremely attached are they to games, of chance, that they will even
pledge their own perfom, as Tacitus reports of the ancient Germans ;
and the Spaniards make ufe of this infatuation to inveigle recruits for
the Philippines, where rhey often difplay great valour f. They alfu
fometimes pledge their perfons for a debt, and labour in the public
works until it be defrayed. As nouridin^t is cheap, and labour dear,
they will in other cafes gain enough in two days to fupport them for the
week, whence they fall into drunkennefs and other excefles, which our
author afcribes to the want of education ; whence alfo their impudence,
and difpoiition to petty thefts^ in which they are very dextrous. It is
to be regretted that education is not beftuwed, for tney have a natural
talent for many arts, working in wax, irory, and glafs, or rather earthen-
ware, with great fkill ; but as they do not make previous models, nor
know the pnoctples of defign, nothing is perfe£tly finifhed. When the
tcademy of the Three Noble Art* was eftablifhed, an Indian prefented
a fcttllt which neither bv the fight, touch» nor weight, could be diftin*
guHhed from oaturei 'ana yet it was wootL Thofe who have received 1

• The (Irefi wu it lorife rlotk and s falh girt round the naked waift. From the ancient
.patnlinc* it appean that the under lin wu pierced, to receive an ornameot of gold. Tiiii
cuflonXa Perour« and otbcn hare OMcnsa oa the nonh-weft coaft of America.

t Iftalla, xxvi. 3d».

^., little

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

j8l

little ed\ication become honeft and decent, and are often named Alcaidst
or petty ma?i(lrates in the villages. The Indians are alfo remarkable
for their fkill in preparing and ftaining the ilcins of the cibolot or tafugot
which is the fame as the bifon, or wild buffalo.

M. Thiery, who has painted with a free and lively pencil the incidents
of his interefting journey from Vera Cruz to Onzava, and thence to
Oaxacat or about 350 Britiih miles, in the empire of Mexico, often
gives Uriking pictures of the national manners *. He obferves that the
Indians have a marked averfion to the negroes, whom they regard as
fcourges in the hands of their mafters. Their chief food conflfts in"
cakes of' maize, called tordillat, which, as they are eaten hot, it is a chief
duty of the females to prepare. They are often accompanied with
chUUt A ^^^^ of fauce, compofed of pimento and heo'fer/icottt that is,
mmatesy or love-apples, pounded together with fait and water, and
which is alfo ufed with meat and iiih. Their little huts refemble thofe
of woodmen. The univerfal drink is pulque^ drawn from the maguey,
or mave jimerlcanai which is to them of^inBnite ufe ; the leaves, which
are three and four feet in length, ferving as tiles, while the fibres ferve
for thread and cloaths, the ftem as beams, and the youn? fprouts as
afparagus, while the juice fupplies them with water, wine, vmegar, acid,
balfam, honey. An inciiion being made to the heait of the plant, the
head is taken off, and a cavity formed in the trunk, fufficient to hold
two or three French pints. The top is then replaced, and during the
following day and night the fap tranfudes from the young leaves into
the cavity, is withdrawn the following day, and afterwards until the
plant be exhaufted and perifhes, when the buds are planted to fecure a
new crop. Such is the origin of this noted beverage, which is not
pleaCant to an European eye, as being of a dirty white colour, and in-
capable of being clarified f .

The rude pyramids, fometimes 40 feet in height, on a bafe of 20*
which are frequent in the Mexican dominions, (eem to have ferved as
fepulchres of diftinguifhed chiefs. Thiery fays, that they much refem-
ble the glae'ieres of France or St. Domingo, a kind of rude hovels,
raifed for preferving ice. Baths for the nek, conflruded on a very
fimple plan, are alio not uncommon near the fountains. The Indian
women are fometimes extremely beautiful, and drefs in the Spani&
falhion of this' hot country, that is, in a fhift and petticoat. The
Mexican language, which they continue to fpeak, feems a rTpetusA
whifpcr, in which the liquid / and the e are aunoll the only Uyi.vM to
be dillingnifhed^

As the firft 'coloniils were chiefly Andalufians, the Spaniih language^
according to Eftalla, is fpoken with an ao^ent not agreeable to a Caf-
tilian ; and the men, as well as the women, have a kmd of fawnine a^
fability, not agreeable to Caftilian pride. When a Mexican lady rev
ceives a vifit (he aflcs a long roll of qucftions all at once ; ** how do yott
do ?" «« how is your health V* " how were you the other day ?** al-
though they may not have feen each ottier for months. When two gren*
tlemen meet, if the one feel himfelf inferior, it is <* you are my lord ;"
" yoH are my all ;" or even, ** you ar» my great )f>xA ;" whiit the wo-
men fay, *( you are all my deflre;}:." The Spanifti laoguagt is mu^li

• Foyoft^ Ctpe Flran^ (St. Domingo), 1787, • n>h. evo.

t Tlie pulque it a very nonriOiing liquor. It (omewhM refciMilM v/itUt bat hM a voy
diGtgreetble cadaveiuut fmell, wUkh fuine proctfii niglA ptiha{« ranon.

} He adds, tlia; when they lake leave fliey lay, A J^'m, ihn \ttfia JMnte, Ui HflA
(«4a mito, httfia iM|wls,

P P 3 corrupted

j4^

SPANISH DOMINIONS*

corrupted iil this country, an infinity of jforeign exprelHons having be^H
adoptfcd^ and a new accepttition given to many words and expreflions i
nay» there is even a mixture of the Mexican. This laft might have en.
riched the language, new wordjj being neceffary for new objetls ; but in
moft cafes they are merely adopted from ignorance or affeftation. Hence
to a Spaniard fome writings become more obfcure than if they were in
a foreign tongue { and if Spanifh fchools were not eilablifhed, the Ian*
guage would tecome as diftinft as the Portuguefe ; and they afFed to
ridicule thofe who do not underftand their dialea, of the impropriety of
which Eftaila gives feveral examples^ Even theu- authors cannot ad<
vance in the diriefl road to the temple of fame, but ilray^into thickets.
and devious paths of quaint exprelHon, where they often lole their
health and reputation. They alfo often die of bombad and obfcurity t
and a work called a Continuation of the HiAory of Solis might be re*
garded as the very quintelTence of extravagance and pedantry.

Thefe faults, fays our author, difappear on the view of their exten*
five charity, of their burning devotion, and of their love to their fove.
reign. On occafionb of epidemic diforders, and other public calamities^
their beneficence is evident. The charitable eftabliihments, and works
of piety would dn honour to the parent country. Their devotion and
zeal in the divine ftrvice Atuft be feeti, he adds, to be believed ; and theif
loyalty is confpicuous in their free donations Upon any public emergency)
Some little habita may alfo deferve mentiom AU the Mexican iadies
Imoke tobacco, in little cicrars of {^aper, which they take from a cafe
of gold or filver, hanging oy a chain or ribbon, while on the other fide
they wear little pincers of the fame metaK Continually occupied in
this amufement, as foon as one cigar is exhaufted another is lighted;
they only ceafe to fmoke when they eat or fleep, and even light a cigar
when they bid you a eood night. You may imagine, fays our author,
how ridiculous and diiagreeable even a pretty woman becotnes, with the
eternal cigar in her mouth; how richly flavoured her breath muil be;
and how much her health and complexion are vitiated by this indecent
and filthy cuftom. Girls never fmoke in the prefence of their fathers ; nor
are the latter fuppofed to know that they fmoke, though they give them
money to buy cigars. - Tlus affeflation of ignorance is truly diverting:
when a mother wants tobacco, fhe fays to her daughter, " give me the
cigars which I gave you to keep," knowine that fhe has given none;
but with falfehood and diflimulation pretending to fave appearances of
refpeft. The airU, who do not fear their mothers upo\i much more
important occafions, are fo circumfpeft in this chief bufmefs of their
Uves. that if the mother enter the room, the cigar is inflautly hidden,
becaufe it would be very unpolite to fmoke before the nanitay for fo they
call their mothers ; while the father is ftyled MitOt a name alfo eiven in
fondnefsi to any man whom they efteem, iatlta fuch a one being the phy*
fician, vr any other perfon of great and immediate confidence. In
another place he obferves that the girls addrefs their mothers by/i&ov,
while the latter call them^er/, as expreifing greater tendemefs, but in
faA tliat ttiey may avoid the appearahce of age.

The qoandty <if gunpowder confumed in meworks, or rather fquibi
aodrockett* is fvnprifing, as they are played off all days in the year,
except holy Thurfday and Friday. The continual noife of bells is alfo
horrible, as on the fmalleft occafion one is deafened every hour { but it it
laid that this infernal clamour is 'on the decline.

They are extremely fond of gaminjg% and affeft fupreme indifference
and chearfulneft when they lofe. A rHow enters a gaining houfe, pro*

' diicei

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

dacn I o or 20 ddlan, which had bfen tied up in a corner of his mai-
tle, lays them on a card, lofes them ; and, without faying a word, pro*
duces a cigar from bilhind his ear, lights it, and walks out, as if nothing
bad happened. The men eafily ^^me a military air* and learn their
exeticiK with much facility ; but the foldiers of the villages are fuperioi^
as ufual, to thofe drawn from the lees of the capical. When a boy hat
completed his rudiments, it is a day of rejoicing for the fcbool and the
family. A proeeifion is formed from the iclKKx, with ftandard, drdmt
and fifes, to tiie hoafe of the parents. The mafters fay that this itimn*
lates application, but tliey rather wiih to proiit by the fooliih vanity of
the relations. When any yoHth pleafes in a bajl, by his dancing, mufici
or voice* al^ even the Ia4ie8, give hin what is called the gala ; nor can
he retufe them without affronttng the aflembly. The dances of the
common people are very wanton ; even the nvoft modeit dances, in all
ages having been regarded as facred tu love, or preparatory to flaac«-iage»
as innocent iUmulants of the natural propenfities of the fexes : nor are
the fongs diflbnant from the indecent movements. In fuperior houfes
ferious dances are ufual ; but for the fake of variety they are imagled
with thofe of the country, as in Spain with the voiere. The eve and
day of All-faints there are (rreat crowds at the doors of the fliop*
keepers ftyled of Chrift, both on foot and in carriages, to buy toys
and fweet-meats for children, in both which the Mexicans excel.
On other folemn days there are great aflcmblies, in different parts of the
city, which are decorated with illuminatieaa, and other ornaments of
cpnfiderable invention. At the Indian feftival in the fandtuary of Gua-
aalupe, near Mexico, an immenfe mnltitude appears, even from diftant
provinces, and much drunkenncfs and diforder enfue : but the Spaniards
obferve the fellivjd in great devotion to that celebrated image, of which
there are medals engraved by the celebrated Don Geronimo GiL

In the defcriptiuii ot the city of Mexico, fome idea will be given of
•ther feilivals there celebrated. The citizens were formerly contented
to follow the trade of their fathers, or to obtain fome chaplaincy, the
number of chaplains being infinite, and often with conii«jlerable falaries *".
They itudied in the univerfity of Mexico, and vegetated in that city*
with the warm approbation of their parents;, w4io thoi;^t at liie hap-
pieft day of their lives when a jTon ^lecame a prieft^ or a daughter a
nun. At prpfeiit matters are happily a little changed ; many lli&xicana
kave their country to vifit the /'cw^/a, a new name for . Spain, or to tiew
courts, iind afpire to all employments political, eoclcuaftic and inili*
(ary : nay, the wx)men willingly wed minifters, officers, and merchantt*
and leave thair country with pleofure. The Creds* as our author here
repeats, have the happieft difpofiitions for aU the arts and fciencet, though
creation be negleded, and the method of fiudy be &r frem being
worthy of the natural talents.

In this happy climate nature anticipates her xights, efpeciaSy in the
female fex, which of courfe is fooner exhaufted than in Spain. At the
i^ of thirty, efp^^ially if thcv have borne fome cloldren, women ap*
pear as aged as in Spain at fifty ( the teeth fidling out, and tite face
king totiuly faded. The climate no doubt contribvtef to this, but fUll
more the fliocking plan of diet. The whole day is employed m eating 1
in the morning they take chocolate ; breakfaft at nine % take an oactt or
another breakfaft at eleven; and foon after nooo they dine. Aftei^
having taki^ ^z Jufia^ or day ileep* they letum to their chocolate^

• Eftpaia, nvt. 391,

•'I-

whick

584

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

which 18 fucceeded by an afternooh''8 luncheon, more chocolate, and a
confiderable fupper. A ftill greater abfurdity is, that you can only
acknowledge the goodnefa of your dinner, or fupper, with the tears
in your eyes. A meal at which no one cried would be regarded as good
for nothing, a great delight of the ladies being to ihcd tears all the time ;
fuch is the force or quantity of the chile, or pimento, with which they
feafon every dilh, a dainty no lefs difgurting tlmn prejudicial to health.
To thefe excefles in fooil may be added the infamous praftice of
fm'oking ; fo that it is not ftrange that in a few years the womtn be-
come decrepid, and that they fuffer greatly from defluxions*. It may
be matter of furprife that the influence of the more powerful fex does
not prevent thefe diforders, by authority, negleft, or contempt ; but it
muft be confidered, that ia Spain itfelf, fo much is the charaAer debafed,
that the politenefs of the men has reduced them to abfolute cyphers ;
and fo fevere is nature, that wherever females obtain the afc'endancy,
they not only work political ruin, of which regal France affords a dif.
ailrous example, but their own degradation and calamity, while their
happinefs totally depends on the fuperior judgment and equanimity of
their partners.

The Mexican ladies prefer the Spaniards, whom they call Gadupincs f ,
to the Creoh ; and have reafon on their fide, becaufe the former are more
conftant and generous, and give them all forts of pleafures and diver-
fions ; while the Creols, born to abundance, inheriting property with,
out labour, commonly wafte it ia a few years, though they bear the
misfortune with indifference ; whence the proverbial faying concerning
the Creols, «* the father a merchant, the fon a knight, the graudfon a
beggar."

The women in general are mod vale in their apparel : a' laced veij
defcends to the feet, the manufacture of the country, and cofting from
80 to 100 dollars. The bafquina, or large upper petticoat, alfo defcends
very low ; and the (hoes are always neat, fometimes rich. When they
are at home, or go out in a carriage, they wear what is called the nbozo^
or muffler, like the (hawls now ufed at Madrid. They do not now load
themfelves with thofe collly gowns called tnelallic, becaufe they were of
a gold or filver tiifiie, fo (tout as to (land upright ; b.it in their place
have adopted the prefent fafliions of Spain, which have the double ad-
vantage of colling far lefs, and of giving more grace and a more pay
air to the fair fex. Yet the Mexican women are oftentatious of wealth,
in the quantity of their diamonds, and the fize of their pearls, as may
be obferved in their balls and vfeftivals. The drefs of the men has alfo
undergone the fame change ; and there is little difference in this refpeft
between them and thofe of Spain, though the houfes boaft greater
wealth in filver images of faints, cornucopias, chandeliers and other
furniture.

The men of the lower clafs, whether whites, or of whatever other caft,
Mil -;4 - '. ■ • •* •"" *' ••

* Our author adih, that when this is the cafe, the ladies w ear a fonall handken Iiief pinnej
to one fide of their head drefi, which tlicy call barbiquejo 1 and during another period pv^
culiar tu tlie fex, ihcy fallen over the forcheiid » blhdkeicliief, commonly black, which ii
called peiia.

•f Perhaps (rotd gachon, a fpoiled cliilil.

Humboklt aflerts, p. 135, that the defcendants of negroes and female Indians, br&f
»i M<Piiic(), Lima, ami even at Havana the odil appelliMioi) of Chinn, or Chinefe. Ellallt
fays with more probabdiiy that this name is given to the natives of the Philippine Ifiandi
whofojuucii or fcule iu INew Spain, in confcijuence uf theijrcal ^utercourfe by the poitoC
Acapiidco.

^»im-0

were

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

i9f

vrere alU a few years a^o, wrapt up in mantles, without any other drefs»
except drawers and a httle hat. This drefs ferved them for ftreet and
chamber, and even for bed, which was merely a^ raifed part of the room, ^ -
covered with a mat ciMed peiate. The greater part, compofing two- ';
thirds of the inhabitants, had no other articles whatever. But latterly
effcdual regulations have been made to prevent the indecent nakednefs of
this clafs, who are forbidden to enter various public places, except they
be decently clothed, fo that this evil begins to be remedied. Formerly
it was common to fee them drop their mantie after mafs, fo that nothing
remained but the drawers. It is fiirprifrng that our author fliould make
no refleftion on this Angularity, after having depifted the cxceflive orna-
ments of the rich ; as there cannot be a more Itriking fign of a bad go-
vernment, while a profperous nation may eafily be known by the numbers
of the middle clafs, in which are chiefly centered the wifdom and
talents of fociety, and by the decent and comfortable appearance of the
poor.

The frequent ufe of the bath partly atones for the want of linen ; and
the climate being dry and warm, renders this cuftom agreeable, and falu-
tary againll the maladies occafioned by that deficiency. There are at
Mexico a great number of baths, and temafcales, a kind of fteam baths
ufed by the ancient natives ; but the bell order does not prevail, and the
police (hould interfere. This want of Hnen might certainly have been
ealily fupplied by an indullrious people, in fo wide a territory of fuch
various climates ; and even the ufe of fine cotton next the fkin is far from
being fo falutary as that of linen, the nations who ufe it being obferved
to be more fubje^l to inflammatory and cutaneous diforders.

Language.] Of i^he Mexican language grammars and diftionaries
have been publiflied in the country ; and from the few fpecimens con-
tained in European . publications it appears to differ ' ra dically fiom the
Peruvian, The words frequently end in // j and are befides of a fur-
prifing and unpronounceable length, refembling in this refpe6i the lan-
guage of the" lavages in North America, and fome 6^ the African dia-
lefts} but llrongly contraftcd with thofe of Afia, in which the mofl:
polifhed, as the Chinefe, are monofyllabic.^ According to Clavigero the
Mexican tongue wants the confonants i, H, _/", g, r, and j ; in \vnich re-
fpeft oi>ly» though unobferved by that author, it ftriftly coincides with
the Peruvian ; except that the latter, inflead of the /, is faid to want
the 2, a mere difference of enunciation. But the Peruvian is a far fu-
perior and more pleaflng language, though fome modifications of the
verbs be of extreme length. The wild enthufiafm of Clavigero compares
the Mexican with the Latin and Greek ; though as like, as he to Hero-
dotus. Spme of the words are of fixteen fyllubles. Their poetry con-
filled of hymns, and of heroic and amatory ballads. They had alfo a
kind of dramas ; but from the fpecimen produced they do not feem to
have been fuperior to thofe of Otaheite.

The number of languages in New Spain by Humboldt's account is
above twenty ; and of fourteen there are already prett*y complete gram-
mars and diaionaries. Among them he enumerates thofe of Taraumara,
and Tepehuana, claffed among the large provinces of the north by Al-
cedo and Eftalla. By his account thefe numerous lanoruages'are not dia-
lers, but are as radically different as the French from the Polonefe.
This infinity of original languages in South and North America has
greatly embarrafFed thofe who are fopd of fuch refearchcs. The Azlec
language, or Mexican, is the mofl widely diffufed, extending from lat.
37^1 to the lake of Nicaragua^ a length of 400 leagues. This language

586

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

is rather harHi, and the length of the words often difagreeable : nay
in fpeaking to their curates the Mexicans employ a word of 27 letters
Notlazomahuizkoplxcatatzm, which figniiies ** venerable prieft, whom I
eherifh as my fatner.**

The natives of New Spain have the general refemblance of thofe of
Canada, Florida, Peru, and Brazil* the copper colour, flat and lank
hair, little beard, fquat body, lo^g eye, the corner raifed towards the
temple *, round cheek bone, thick lips, and in the mouth an cxpreflion
of mildnefs, contrailing with a dark and ilern eye f .

Literature.]] Ellalla hasobferved, as above mentioned, the defefls
of literature in this opulent viceroyalty. A Mexican guide has lately
been publifhed in the city, a prodigious exertion : but the Mexican ga-
eette yields greatly to that of Guatimala, which, according to Dr.
Barton, fometimes prefents interefting memoirs on the antiquities and
natural hillory of the country. Some pamphlets on Mexic«n antiquities
have alfo appeared ; and botany begins to he ftudied: there has been even
recently pubhfhed a work on mineralogy, digefted according to the fyllem
of Werner. Thefe are, no doubt, favourable appearances ; but why
fkould this wide empire, with fo confiderable a population, be a century
or more behind the Uniicd States ? The Spaniards are confefledly a peo>
pie equally folid and ingenious ; and the only poflible obftacles mull be
fought in the inquifition, and that degrading fanaticifm maintained by the
avaricious preponderance of the clergy.

The Teatro Americano of Villafenor, publiflicd in two volumes fblio,
1746, may, with all its defeats, be regarded as the chief folid monument
of Mexican literature* But two-thirds of this ufeful work, which dif.
plays a detailed chorography of the provinces of New Spain, are occu.
pied with the moil prolix documents concerning the clergy and religious
foundations, wholly uninterefting except to their own order: nay, the com.
pilation of Alcedo, printed at Madrid 1 787, after prefenting catalogues
and (hort accounts of the viceroys and governors of the feveru provinces,
often ufeful to hlflory and geography, is loaded with fimilar details con.
cerning archbishops and biihops, of no utility in any branch of fcience.
A rational chriftian, converfant in the precepts of the gofpel, above all
the humiUty and fclf-deiiial that are inculcated as the very eflfence and
being of religion, will be aftoniihed and affliAed at the deep depravity
of human nature, which can convert fuch a beautiful fyAem of pradtical
morality into a perAdious inftrument of avarice and extortion, pride and
oftentation. And while the very teachera are thus loft to^U fenfe of pro-
priety, decency, and Oiame, as not only to load themfelves with wealth
and honours, generally at the very expcnce of tlie poor, for wlionn the
foundations were originally endowed, but to publifti fplendid deCcriptioni
of their ufurpatioha, need we wonder tliat, by the confeflion of tiie
Spanifh authors, the favages become more corrupt and immoral, in pro*
portion as this new-faHiioned fyftcm of pretended chriftianity makes any
progrefs \ Nor can it efcapc the learned reader that, at in the times of
chivalry, all warsrvere wholly conduced at theexpence of the king and
the barons, except on extraordinary emergencies, wlien a fubfidv was
raifed on the merchants, and other perfons m eafy circumftancei, io the
only poor tax was, fo to fpeak, levied on the clergy, whofe rich revenuN
had been merely afligncd, by the pious donors, in fupport of the poor;
and it is well known that it was tht fuppreflion of relitfious boufet, and
• part of the wealth of the prehitei and d^itarieii which introduced thi

• Tliii U new and vtiy doubtAilt

fHiMib. Il,«9.

poor

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

S^7

poor tax into England after the Reformation. But the Spanifli clergy and
religious oiders are w&llo^ng in gluttony, luxury, and voluptuoufnefs |
whuc the poor,^ whom they have defpoiled, have not, as we h^ive feen»
cloaths to cover their nudity. Yet thefe are the meii who pretejdto.he
the only difciples of the leather of Light, and yet envelope entinPregions
«f the globe in a total eclipfe of reafon, in a palpable mental'darknefs,
that they may rob without being feen, and . enjoy without be^ig quef-
tioned. Such reflefiions are neceflfarily excited, not only by the 1^- ;
plorable itate of the fciences, arts, and induftry in this extenfive aitd.w^
opulent empire^ but by the miferable poverty of two-thirds of its in-
liabitants.

Universities and £btJCATioN.]I The ftate of education, if it de» v
ferve the name, is fo intimately connected with that of the univerfities,
and other literary foundations, that an account of the latter mud fuffice. :
The univerfity of Mexico, founded in 1^51, is ftyled Royal and Pontifi- '
cal: and the clM^er is compofed of i^i dolors, of all forts of faculties,
except the faculty of realoning. It is governed bv a reftor, elefted
yearly by the leffci cloi/ler^ compofed of the former reAor and eight
couniellors, chofeti by lot from the 'doftors and batchelors. The office
of chancellor is annexed to the dignity of fchoolmaller of the metropolis ;
his office being to prefide at conferring fome degrees, while on other oc-
caiiohs he holds the fecond rank. The llatuces were compiled by Pa-
lafox, and the method of iludies remains the fame as at the beginning,
and fimilar to that of Salamanca, that is calculated to diffufc a moii
glorious darknefs *.

The chairs or profeiforAiips are, the Firft, and thofe of Vefpers, '
Scripture, St. Thomas, and Duns Scotus ; the two laft being filled up
by the holy order of St. Francis. In law there are the Firft of the
c?non9, the vefpers of the canons, the temporal of the Clementines, &c.
In .nedicine fix. In botany a director aAd a profefTor, or in the Spanifh,
a cathtdraiyi of botany, who alfo leflures at the* royal botanic garden.
In philofophy two ; rhetoric one ; one for the Mexic&n language, and
another for the Otomite, the two moft univerfal in the viceroyalty, and
ufeful in the converflon of the favages.

At Arft all the feats were filled oy the votes of all the fcholars, fo
that the candidates were obliged to gain general efteem. At prefent the
profefTors are named by a mod venerable junta, confifting of the arch-
biihop, in whofe palace it is held, of the regent of the Royal Audience,
the dean of the cathedra^- the oldeft inquifitor, the re^or of the univer-
fity, the mafter of the metropolitan fchools, the profefibr of the firft clafa
of theology, and the dean of the faculty f .

The pulMic library of the univerfity was founded about forty years ago,
and is well fumifhed with old books of divinity, but for new editions of
the clafUcs, or ocw works of fcience and philofophy, you may look in
vain; becaufe, fays our author, certain mcidents have prevented the
fullenjoymcBt of the reveanet, though equal to any in the peninfula,

* There It anoihar untvarlSty at CusiJdMara, or rather tiro conffrp* ; one ihe fmMnary
of the ntiietlfti, the other for frking and the Meiucao language. There were alfO two
t'Ahfitt at Ouatimak.

t The <<4'grr« of doAfor ia acqubvd at « gnat npence, gf neralljr (tefraycil bv foni« rich
(MinN). A iiuvk of thia decrve it a ring. The bonuet and roquet are exmifed with great
pomp from tlw balcony of inc patron. If a A»S\w of medicine lie named, a fpur it nut
wi ; probably aa «ld pun, at the Cunt word In Spanifli figniftct advice { perh«|w it may lig-
tiify that the^ lend fpun i» die difioafa. l^Ulia/ axvi. u>«.

that

SPANISH DOMIlrtONS.

that i>t in S.patn*. In fa£l, the falariM of 251 ufelefii doners might
corifume. even royal revenues ; and it would be preferable to have only
w, and 250 new books. This library is open to the public, ex.
^undavs and holidays, from feven to eleven in the morning, and
to live in the evening ; there being two doftors librarians, a
j€tor and an evening doftor ; and one fervant to bring Hjg
hac^,}Nrfi eunuchs worthy of fuch a hararr.
^^Tne colle|;iB of Sf. Mary-of-all-Saints is the only one of the firft rank
^^*W the Sipanifh American pofreflions. It was founded by tlie moft glori.
OUI, ilwftrious,. venerable, and wonderful lord and doftor, Don l^'ran.
cifco Rodriguez, &c. Santos, bifhop of Guadalaxara, and dedicated to
' the Moft Holy Virgin Mary, under the advocation of the affumptior ;
for which, and manitold owier reafons, it was baptized St. Mary -of all.
Saints. There are ten dignitaries, four in divinity, three in canon law,
•nd three in civil ; •* the candidates exhibit public and fecret informations
o( woiilhy (perhaps fixteen quarters), literature, and moral manners;
afterwards undergoing a regular examination, in which he muft make a
dtfeQlirfe» and liNwer all forts of arguments." This college, being re.
gardni M fecular, is fubjeft to the viceroys. The defign was to afford
so youth, who had ftudied in the lefler colleges, an afylum, where they
might perfeA themfelves in theology and law, while it is one of the
poovimi' eftabliHiments in the viceroy alt y. Yet there is a public library,
whidl^ tccording to our author, contains fome rare manufcripts, proba-
bly relative to the ecclefiaftir hiftory of New Spain. The catalogue of
dilHnguifhed members of this college was printed at Mexico 1796.

Th^ feminary was founded by an archbifliop of Mexico in 1682, ac
Mpding to the cxaft method ordered by the holy council of Trent.
iPbre are at prefent thirteen profefTors. As the old edifice was not fuf.
ficient, for the fhidcnts amounted to 400, a new building was erefttd in
1 750. The method of ftudy has been fomewhat reformed ; and inftead
of metaphyfical fubleties, the belles Icttres and iifeful ftudies begin to be
fubftituted { and the printed themes begin to difplay fome acquaintance
with good authors. The Undents are alfo encouraged by rewards, and
a more free accefs into other literary focieties. A fund of 6o,oQo ptfo:
fuertet, or hard dollars, yields a revenue of j{ooo, which Serves to found
an yearly chaplaincy j and there are fcholarfhips forthf poor, with books
And cloaths. In the month of Augud there is a folemn diftribution of
prizes by the archbifliop, amidft a bruliant aifemblv.

The Jefuits had formerly five colleges, of wnich two alone remain,
and are direfted by the viceroy, or rather by a junta, prefided by the
archbifhop, and, in one only, grammar is taught to the Indians f. The
other, called San Ildefunfo, is nearly on the fame footing with the femi.
nary, there being one profefFor of fcnulaftic divinity, one of law, three of
philofophy, three of grammar ; but though many illuftrious members have
endeavoured to exclude the pcripat<:tic fubtleties, it has been hitherto found
impofllble to overthrowthe Itrong barriers again (l the necefTary reformation,
which however muft fucceed at laft ; and fince 1706, the themes begin to
difplay fome acquaintance with folid authors. The buildings are mag*
niliccnt, and may be compared with any in Europe ; the chapel and
grand hall being the moft beautiful in the viccroyalty.

• Efltlk, xxvii. S.'M.

f riie late KiiiR Cli«>le« III. fisuiulrd t follege for nohle TndiaM, under the ftvie of
8t. Cvlus J but u h« forgot to •lllgii %vj {\iudi, tb« defign unexpcArdlj fell to the ground,

The

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

589

The college of St. John Lateran is the mod ancient of iny in Nev
Spain, having been founded in the rei^>n of the emperor Charle* V. fjlJr
the in(lru£iion of thofe defcended from Spanifh and Indian parents. It wa«
however in a poor condition, until 1764, when the plan of lludies wafV
enlarged, and fomcwhat approaches to that of the feminary, y-In *78o

' ' " ... ^^^ qflife

the inftif

'v. ;

it \va« Itill further improved on the European plan ; but the 1
is (till too fevere, and only fervcs to fruUrate the intention* >

tution.

The college of St. Jago is without the walls of Mexico, in a houfe
of the Francifcans, but is at prefent merely a boarding fchool for children,
who are taught grammar, j}hilofophy, and divinity, fuch as they are ;
for Duns Scotus maintains all the obfcurity of his reputation, in fpit« .^.
of the oppofition of fome of the friars. Qther religious orders have'
alfo pubHc fcliools. In general, in all thefe colleges, the ancient plans
are ubitinately purfued ; and all the windows hare iirong blinds, in order
to exclude any modern light, the gravitation of Newton being only
known by the corpulency of the profefTors. The college of San Ranioa
is rather an hotel, where are maintained the young men from the bifliOp*
tki of Havana, and Valladolid in Mechoacan, who %idy law io toex
royal univerlity.

Such are the ancient inftitutions. The modern are of a more pleafmg
and inftruftive nature. A deficiency having been obfeinicd of •'^en ca-
pable of dirc^in? the mineralogic operations, fo general in thii opident
viceroyalty, a college of mines has at length been ere£t^, where youth
are not only inilrufted in that fcirnce, but in other iigjlportant parts of
education. In t1)e Brft place, all the antiquated pradices of the CQllegei^
in their internal diltributiont in the drcfs, manner of eating, and otneir
forms prejudicial to youth, have been totally banifhed : whence. the hajipf
confcq'ieiice ha^ arifen, that the fcitolars have, with lefs fttiigue» and
far more advantage, been in(lru<5led in all the obje£U^ ^^MJp ^^^ ^ '
ildlful and virtuDUs man. The lludies purfued are Spaniflk ami French
grammar, drawing, mathematics, n.iturai philoi'ophy, chemiftry, and
mineralogy, the praftice being througho'.Jt united with the theory.
Public rewards are ailigned in prefence of the tribunal of mines, and an
afRrmbly of the principal inhabitants, the hall being fpleii4i^y adorned,
while an orchcltrn of inufic divcrlifics the exhibition. T|llit.tolIe£tion of
machines and models is numerous aid excellent, and the mHr edifice (aid
to be elegant and well arranged *.

The royal academy of tlie Three Noble Arts is a Taltiable kiftitu-
tionf. The filverfmilhs are obliged to fend their appreritjcft to ftudy
drawitig ; and it would be well if iome other ^rofcffions weie ilLthe like
pndicatneiit. The academy is provided with good profeflon in archi>
tcMure, painting, fciilpture, and engraving, in which 4a(l too pefitt are
given to a mailer to teach the art to felcA difciplas. Then is alfo a
profclfor of matkemntics, to afltll the clafs of architecture. Models of
ancient (latucs have bvcn brought from Spain, and there is a fmali coU
ledion of paintings. The funds are ij,ooo pr/ot from the royal trea-

* AtBong Oi« firfl frviiii of this inCiitutioit ii Dtlrio SUmnUot de Oti&egttofia, ptrt i^
Hnuluiiii; (he «*arUi«, iloncp, atui falri. Mexico, 179S, 4ti<. pp. II. tiid 17 1. TLn
work, conftrui^eU oil (he priitciplu of Werner, it «l«.ft){iic(l ior tlie ufe of ihe Csiointry^
«f Mcviro.

-f EftslU, nvU. 900. The revetmc of the Acs'leny of Fine Arts it Mexico •nMnts
to l9ft,O0O franrt', an'l its influence in (he iinpnivcments of rdificrt, &c. it very cunfidfr*
tlilr. Thf pmrtflbr of friiliMure It ihc crlclnittuil 'lulfa, wliu ha* pr Kliiced an cquellritn
iUtun of (.iurlei IV. in hronzr, a work of ciinnral ptirity. llumb. 119.

8 t furr.

■>
■1

.. ';■ "^

590

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

^' fury, xoob from the city of Mexico, 5000 from the tribunal of ninei,

.' ' 200 from Vera Cruz, 200 from Guanajuato, &c. and 4000, as the in.

^ tereft of 80,000 of principal } fo that the whole revenue is 26,^^0 pefot

* while the falaries, penfions, and rewards amount to 25.043. Archite£^g|

^ fculptorit painters, and furveyors» are regarded as reiponfible to this

academy*?

^ There are alfo particular houfes in Mexico where Latin grammar it

taugfit by preceptors approved by the government and univeruty, though

in fa£k of fmall (kill and reputation, fo that the colleges are generaUy

preferred. *< In the primary fchools for children, I have obferved with

pleafure coniiderable improvements. Some mafters have adopted the

excellent method eftabliHied in the royal fchools of Madrid, and in that

of the royal committee, abandoning the barbarous routine of the old

fchoolmaners. The public examinations held in Mexico evince the ftt.

periority of the new method."

The royal garden of botany in New Spain is regarded by our author
as a medical inlUtution to difcover the virtile of plants. A new cdurfe
is held every year, frequented not onl^r by Undents of medicine, but by
other curious perfona ; yet the botanic garden, in 1799, was of fmall
account, and only regarded as proviiional*. And though there are
profcflbrs of medicine and furgery in the royal univerfity, yet they are
merely theoretic, and employed m difcuffing whether medicine be an
art or a fcience, and ether queftions of large leaves, many prickles, and
fmall fruit. Some little idea of pra^ice is acquired in the hofpitals;
but when one of the faculty proje£ted a chair of pradical medicine,
death ^ot angry, and laid violent hands upon him.

From the preceding account, carefully extracted from a recent and
intelligent Spaniih author, it may be obferved that the chief object, the
diffufion of a good and folid education, would ftill appear a novelty,
The improvements in the primary fchools afford confolitory ideas ; but
the chief obje£l (hould be to incrcafe their number, to educate and pre.
pare proper mafters, and to aflign permanent falaries, to be derived from
» a portion of the immenfe poifelnons of the church, which would be far
more laudably employed in teaching virtue and fcience, than in main.
taining ignorance and luxury.

Cities. — Mexico.] The chief city of New Spain, and all Spaniih
America, it Mexico, celebrated for the fmgularity of its fituation. In
a beautiful vale, furrounded with mountams, the lake of Tezcuco it
joined on the fouth to that of Chalco by a ftrait, on the weft fide of a
tongue of land, the whole circuit of thefe lakes being about 90 milet,
In a fn|ill ifle to the north of this iunfkion, and upon the welt fide of
the lake of Teecuco, rofe the old citv of Mexico, acceifible by feverai
caufies raifed in the (hallow waters, out on the eaft fide there was no
cpqAmunication except by canoes. It is faid by Robertfon, firom recent
Spaniih documents, to contain 150,000 inhabitants \ of which probably
a third part is Spanifh. A recent account of this remarkable city it
given by Chappe D'Auterochef, who vifited it in 17C9, and informs
us that It is built upon a fen, near the banks of a lake, and croffed by
numerous canals, the houfes being all founded on piles. lUnce it would

* ' * There weiv, however, in 1798, HOOD plants, uf which h^ir wcrtt unknown in Ea.
rope; (here WM alfo i grett colle(f\ioii of c|i«iirupcds, birds, &r. Eltnlta, xxvii. 194.

f VovB)^ tu LallRimui, 1778, «vo. Tliis fiiort but ruriotn work fcemt to hiM
cfcaitfd br. Robenfon. A ulan of Mexico w infericd, but ii\jiidtcloufly not extrnded to
the lake. Tht srcuunt of Mexico bj Vwg(» feemi onlj to tvlnct (htt his work i* » f*l>r>>
ntion.
* ,. 6 t - feem

ancient continent,
writers in the, defe^
there were fuppofed
ffoid and gems; the
fialf of the fiuniliea
To the preceding
be loined a ieledion
publiihed in 1799
Spain, details of co
«ll former defcriptioi

* Tbb probably happ
» vide caiial waa le<l thre
ik* bottom beiiw oitnnu \
4«clty laihaTaioe with
H^e. inU |«g« nMnfic
Miiquifei del Vallt his <1
givto (ron the origioal pi

WMXt,

t D'Auterochf, p. aa

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

59'

feem that the waters of the lake have dimini(hed» fo as to leave a fenny
accefs on the weft *. The ground ftill yields in many places ; and fome
buildings* as the cathedral, have funk fix feet. The ftreets are wide
and ftraight, but very dirty ; and the houfes, refembling thofe in Spain,
are tolerably built. The chief edifice is the viceroy's palace, which
ftands near the cathedral in a central fquare, but is rather folid than
elegant. Behind the palace is the mint, in which more than iqo work-
meit are employed, as the owners of the mines here exchange their
bullion for coin. The other chief buildings are the churches, chapels,
and convents, which are very numerous, and lichly ornamented. The
autfide of the cathedral is unfinifhed, as they doubt the foundations ;
but the rail round the high altar is of folid iilver, and there is a filvcr
lamp fo capacious that three men get in to clean it ; while it is alfo en<
lich.d with lions' heads, and other ornaments, in pure gold. The
images of the virgin, and other faints, are either foiid filver, or covered
with gold and precious ftones. Befides the great central fquare there
are two others, each with a fountain in the middle. *< To the north
of the town, near the fuburbs, is the public walk, or ji/ameJa. A
rivulet runs.all round it, and forms a pretty large fquare, with a bafon
vaAjet iPeau in the middle. Eight walks, with each two rows of trees,
terminate at this bafon, like a ftar, but as the foil of Mexico is unfit for
trees, they are not in a very thriving condition. This is the only walk
in or near to Mexico ; all the country about it, is fwampy ground, and
full of canals. A few paces off, and facin? the Alameda, is the Quc"
naJero; this is the place where they burn the Jews, and other unhappy
vidians of the awful tribunal of inquifition. This Quemadero is an
enclofure between four walls, and filled with ovens, into which are
thrown over the walls the poor wretcliea who are condemned to be
burnt alive $ condemned by judges profeifing a religion whofe firft pre-
cept is charity f." l^he Spanim inhabitants are commonly clothed in
blk, their hats being adorned with belts of gold and rofes of diamonds ;
ht even the flaves nave bracelets and necklaces of gold, filver, pearls,
wd gems^ The ladies are of diftinguifhed gallantry. Mexico, though
iolaiM, is the feat of vaft commerce between Vera Cruz on the eaft, and
Acapnlco on the fouth ; and the (hops difplav a profufion of gold, filver,
and jeweU. la magnificent regularity it yields to few cities even on the
ancient continent. Gage, whofe authority was ufed by the moft recent
writers in the. defeat of other materials, fays that in liis time, 1640,
thoc were fuppofed to be 15,000 coaches, tome of them adorned with
vM and gems { the neople being fo rich, that it was fuppofed that one*
half of the familiet kept equipages ^,

To the preceding brief defcription of this celebrated capital may now
be joined a £ele6Uon of recent circumftances, from the work of Lftalla,
publilhed in 17^ ; and as, in the whole of this defcription of New
Spain, details of confiderable length have been given, not only becaufe
all former defcriptions were fo antiquated and deleave, that this region

• Tbi* probably hu>pen«(l after 1639, when tbere wua temarksble Inandation, and
« wide caiial wai le<l thiouKh a muunuiu to drain the lakci. The laige lake ii faline,
ikt IxHtom beintf nitroua 1 but that of Chaico lathrr fweet. Certain it is that the fitc of
dwtlty iatliB fatae with the arrient, the viceroy reliding 011 the fpoi of Motezuma'a
nlMe, in'a krge manTion huilt by t'ortet, and ftill rented at 4000 ducats from the
Min{uifes del Vallt his defcendants. La Croix, il. 38]. But compare Careri, who baa
givta (nna the original papers a curious dettil concerning the procedure in draiiiii^ th»
bkei.

t D'Autcrocbt, p. 44. t Survey of the W«ft Indies, 16»5, fbl. p. 56.

had

■■*■»- i-h •',

■59*

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

i .

-had become the very reproach of gcographj, but becaufe the country
itfelf is in many refpcfts one of the moll fingular and intereftinjr on
the face of tlie globe, fo this account of the metropolis of America fliall
be more than ufually ample and minute.

The air of Mexico is very fubtle, and dangerous ''when confined in
narrow paflages 5 hence the lake docs not produce fuch humidity as
might be conceived, and the bodies of dead animals remain long uncon-
fumed. The lake, as already feen, has retired a Spanilh league from
the city ; and fome think that this circumftance renders the air lefs heal.
thy, for too dry a climate may produce accidents and fudden dtaths
There are however many water-courfea, covered and open, but they are
cleanfed only once in two years. The winter froll is gentle, and is
thought fevere when the ice exceeds the thickncfs of paper. The fiim.
mer heats are tempered by the regular (bowers which fall in the evenings.
Betwixt twelve and one o'clock, during the rainy feafon, the clouds
begin to rife from the lakes ; and betwixt two and three defcend in vio.
lent (bowers, of which an European can hardly form an idea, except by
comparing the noife and rapidity to a ftorm of large hail. The rain con-
tinues two hours, more or lefs ; and is fometimes accompanied with
lightning, not without accidents. Sometimes there are water-fpouts
which however have never been known to have fallen on the city, but aU
ways on the lake. They however fometimes ruin mining ftations ; and
our author fays that they have been known even to level hills. Tliough
jull within the tropic of cancer, the yearly cold at Mexico appears, from
thermometrical obfervations, to exceed the heat. The rainy feafon ex-
tends from the middle of May to the middle of September; durin^r
which, as has been mentioned, it rains every evening : if it failed, the
harveft would be loll, and there would be many difcafes, which have
fometimes degenerated into the contagious form.

The plain of Mexico is about (ixty leagues in circumference, and en.
clofed on all (ides by mountains, covered with cedars, many rare (hrubs,
and medicinal plants ; while they contain minerals and pKcious Hones.
Thefe moimtains are (ludded with romantic villages and faims, watered
with cryllal rivulets. Near the middle of this delicious plain are the
lakes Tezcuco and Chalco, Eftalla informs us that the waters, not
many years ago, reached to the city ; but he add», that Don Domingo
de Trefpalacios. uncle of his friend, who gave him the moft recent in.
telligence concerning New Spain, had conltrufted a dyke on the fide of
San liHzaro, that the city might not be inundated; and which dill
exids, though of no utility, becaufe the lake had retired nearly a Spanilh
league, or four Englilh miles *. The capital, by his account, remain*
in the fame pofition as when founded in the chrillian year 1327 f . And
fmce the year 171a there have been no augmentations, though the
churches and houfes have been beautified, the increafed number of in*
Itabitants being accommodated by the greater height of the houfes, and
the more fplendid part of- the capital being reduced to narrower bounds.
The (Ireets are well opened, proceeding m right lines from call to well
and from north to fouth ; and thoueh the foil is marfliy, the foundationi
are rendered firm by art and induitry. It is incredible how much thii
grand capital has been decorated and improved very lately, both in 'iti
interior and environs, £preat cleanlinefs and a grood police nafing been at
the fame time eftablifhed, fo as to haire become the largeftf^ mm beauti*
fiil, and fumptuous of all the Spanifh monarchy. The cadiedral churdi

• fftalla, uvli. 79, t IbU. xxvi. S33.

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

593

19 a magnificent ffdifice, the ereftion havinpr occupied 94 years ; there
are two images of the virgin ; one of gold which weighs 6984 eaJlAlanoi*^
and is adorned with precious ftones; the other of filver, weighing 83
marks, or about fifty-five pounds. The fervice is performed with
fuigular pomp and fplendour f . Though the pariflies do not exceed 14,
there are mor^ than 100 other churches, moftly neat and richly de-
corated. The religious houfes are furprifingly numerous, and the
nunneries amount to twenty, one of them having been the refidence of
the celebrated Mexican poetefs, Juana Ines de la Cruz.

AmoAg the numerous courts of juftice and officers here eftablifhed,
are the royal audience and chancery of New Spain, vvhofe jurifdiftion
extends on the north from the cape of Honduras to Florida, and on
the fouth from the audience of Guatimala to that of Guadalaxara;
the court for llrangers, and thofe who die inteitate ; the royal tribunal
of rtgifters ; the royal coffers or general treafury ; the royal mint, and
many others : not to fpeak of the tribunal of the inquifirion ; th«
houfe of the milfions of California ; 'the mount of piety, ere&ed by
the charity of the Count de Rega, who gave, no lefs than 315,000 pefos ;
the royal tribunal of mines; that of the eftate and marquil'ate of Valle»
or the dcfcendants of Cortez ; the illuftrious chapter, juftice, and go-
vernment of the moft noble and imperial city itfelf, to which the
ancient arms were confirmed by Charles V., being a caftle with three
towers, an eagle on a tree with a fnake in its beak ; at the foot of the
tree is the lake ; the whole furmounted with an imperial crown, and
fupportcd by two lions. Philip V. granted to Mexico, in 1728, all
the privileges and diftindions of a grandee of Spain ; and Charles III.,
ill i773» indulged t\\Q chaptery or magiftrates, with the ufe of uniforms
laced with gold, declaring their precedence over all tribunals and
bodies, except the royal audience and the tribunal of accounts. The
patronefs of the city is St. Mary of Guadalupe, folemtily chofen in
lyjy, and whofe worfhip has extended over all Spanifh Amv,rica.

Tlie natives have con fiderable difpofitions for the arts, and in painting
they boaft of Cabrera, Enriqnez, Vallejo, Pala'ez, and Don Juan
Patricio. Their gentral charafter is that of a liberal, courteous, afFablet
and charitable people. The univerfities and colleges have educated
many archbiHiops and bifhops, viceroys, ambafladors, and magiftrates ;
but not one author of any diftin6tion, though this be an objefl of far
greater glory, and might have diffufed its reputation over both hemif>
pheres.

There are thirteer hofpitals, and other charitable eftablifhments ; B
houfe of refuge for married women : that of the Magdalen for aban-
doned females ; a foundling hofpital ; a general hofpital for the Tick,
poor and beggars. There are alfo fevcral houfes for female orphans*
who are fed at a good table, and receive 100 dollars a year, and Jco
when tkey arc able to eftablifh themfclves. Other girls drawing lott
at the cathedral, receive certain perquifites ; and fometimes, when they
\vi(l\ to marry, already poifefs from fix to eight thoufand dollar?.

The mount of piety has already been mentioned; and *this ufeful
inftitution in favour of the poor, who are in many countries devoured
by the infamous ufury of the pawn-brokers, ought to be an objctt of
univerfal imitation. There is a general hofpital for the Indians, of

* A cafleUano is the fiftivth |iart of a muk, while a nurk U twoM^irdt ( f a pound, ok
tijlii ounces.

t llic brggan uf ike city of Mexico, trt computed at 60,000, )*ilit. A Oiockit^
rantnft !

li '■ •■!

¥rbicK

;, ' J

594

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

• which the expfcnces are defrayed by themfelves; but the family of
Cortez the conqueror maintains another hofpital for the Indians, with
fuch excellent affiftance that they are eager to enter. Among feveral
other hofpitals that of San Lazaro receives lepers, an ancient malady
revived in America, where it is chiefly imputed to the ufe of cotton
ihirts, or other garments of that material, while fome add the ufe of
pork, of which there is a great confumption, and that of chile, or
pimento fauce ; and fome fufpe£t the venereal difcafe ; but the chief
caufe feems to be the want of cleanlinefs. The civil and military officeri
have a cheft for the relief of their widows, who derive a revenue equal
to the fourth'part of their hufband's {alary. This might well be
imitated in England, where the widows of defervinjr officers are often
left in great diftrefs.

The viceroy is commander in chief, and prefident of the ceconomical
and political government ; and for the daily difpatch of bufmefs there
are two offices, befides that of the fecretary. He refides in the royal
palace fituated in the great fquare, a coniiderable edifice, cxtendinir
about 230 yards, and alfo, containing the royal mint, and the three
halls of the royal audienc^, two for civil cafes, and one for criminal.

*• The holy tribunal of the faith always confifts of three inquifitors,
twA being judges, and one tifcal ; four counfellors of the gown, two
ecclefiaftic counfellors, an alguacil, four fecretari^e and a treafurer, with
other officers necelTary to its harmonious arrangement; the court of
jujigment, tribunals, and habitations, being clofe by the imperial con-
vent of St. Dominic, where are celebrated all the public funftionsof
the inquiiltion, the building being of fumptuous appearance."

The viceroy is alfo prefident of the tribunal of accompts, which in.
fpeAs all thofe of the royal revenue. The tribunal of quickfilver
fupplies all the mines with that indiipenfable article. The mint hns$
number qf neccffary officers, and its labour is greatly augmented ; for
while in 1743, the coinage was 8,112,000 dollars in filvcr, with 5,912
marks of gold, there has latterly been It ruck to the annual amount ot
26,0:0,000 of dollars. Moil of tlie other tribunals are in the palace.
The cuftom-houfe has a regulat guard, to obferve all articles that eiiti'r
or leave the city. The city council is near the royal palace, eoiiiiftiiiT
of a corregidor or corrc6tor, tlie Spanifli title for a mayor or chief
magillrate, twelve reg'uloresy or aldermeti, and other officers. The
junta of the *^^/o prefides over the grain and other fupplies of the
city; while that of the police fiiperiiitends the buildings, pavements,
and cleanhnefs of the ftreets. There are common alcalds, who judgt-
civil and crim-.ial cafes in the firft indance ; but an appeal lies to the
r«yal audience. With regard to the Indians the city is divided into
two partfl, called the divifions of Tenucas and Tlatelucas, having, each
their governors, alcalds, and other oflicors, perfectly acquainted with
the houfes and perfons of each individual, probably with a view to

ijrevent infurrcdlion. The firll divifiou contains more than 6c:o
'amilies of Indians; the fecond more than 2,500 ; but they all fecm to
be chiefly eUablidied in the environs, as i*oy are counted by viliugci
and farms. *

The city of Mexico is abundantly fupplied with ^rain, fruit, aid
the produflicns of the garden, from the environs, whicli are very fertile
except on the eaftcrn lide of the grczt lake of Tezcuco, as the falinc
waters and vapours impede the vegetation. The more populmia ami
'CftJwded parts of the city extoiid fi'>m north to fouth, one Spanifli
.Jeaguci or four IHnglifh miles j and from call to weft three quarters uf
t 1 ■ . n . .• -' a \zm^

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

595

a leagucj or three Englifli miles ; and though the houfcs extend to
Tacilba, there ia only one ftreet from San Hipolito *.

At the diftance qT two Spanifli leagues, at the place called Mexi-
caIt2i"go» begins the other great lake, that of Chalco, about five leagues
jn Ir ^t'l from north to fouth, and about as much from caft to wciV,
afForduig ample fpace tor the crowded traffic of canoes, which bring all
the produfts of its circumference. In the raidft, befide the royal'canal,
are feen various villages, among which is that of Ixtacaloo, with a
Francifcan convent, much frequented by the citizens after Eafter.

To purfue the fomewhat dcfultory defcriptionof our author, the city'
of Mexico is not furrounded with walls or other defence ; there is only
a trench, or ditch, ferving as a barrier to coUeft the duties and prevent
fmuggling. , The chief gates are that of Guadalupe, on the road to
tHat fanAuary, and thofe of Los Angeles, Trafpana, Chapultepec, San
Anton and San Lazaro. All ihe pulque enters by the gate of Guadahipe,
and this general drink of the Itidians and of the poor now yields about
a million of dollars to the king. When a new cargo enters, this joyous
occafion is celebrated with banners, mudc, and incredible uproar. The
ftreets, gienerally reaching from one extremity to the other of the city,
are now well paved, but are fo even, that during rain it becomes
neceffary to be carried on the (houlders of the Indians from one foot path
lo the other. In the midil of the great fquare is a fountain, with a
horfe of bronze ; the palace of the viceroy has a confiderable garden,
where he fometimes ereAs a tent, affumes a country drefs, and difpatchcs
bulinefs ; but in general the viceroys, having no country-houfe, pafa
the warm feafon at that of the archbi(hop, in Tacubaya.

Even the manufaftory of cigars, in which more than five thoufand
perfons are employed, is a modern and magnificent edifice. The
tribunal of la Acordada was one of the moll terrible in the viceroyalty ;
the judge, who is called captain of the holy brotherhood, being alfo
infpedor of prohibited liquors. Nor was there any appeal till it was
ordered in our time, by Charles III., that the viceroy, with two or
three judges, fliould revife the fentences. The judge of the Acordadi
has from eight to ten thoufand men throughout the viceroyalty, under
the names of lieutenants, corporals, and troopers, many being dehroua
to enlift on account of the privileges. The judge is a lay brother, but
has affeffbrs. The holy brotherhood was eltabliihed in imitation of
that of Spain," known to every reader of Don Quixote, on account of
the many robberies and murders which were formerly committed ; and
this vigilant police maintains the pubhc tranquillity of the city and ot
the viceroyalty, fpeedily chaftifing every excefs, and performing iheir
rounds day and night. C tpital criminals are hanged in a field, called
Exido de Concha, from tlie name of the captain of this brotherhood ;
and the tribunal has become more ufeful, fmce the viceroy obtained the
privilege of reviewing fentences of death. .^

* Humboldt eltimatefi the |)0])ulnti.)ii of the city of Mexico in ths following manner :

9,500 huriipfan whites. '^ .,,

6 > 000 ( reol whiles. - '

8J,000 Nfttivt's, (i(>|ipir dilourpd Indiar^.)
06, ,^00 Mflllvcs, inixiure oi whites and Imllans.
, 10,000 Mu'aUoa. - -V; '-^ ;

t1i<J

107,000 InhaltiiAiitii.
Thf cnnfump'ioti of wine ts very much iiirrciifctl fitite 1701 > pfp^r'til'v {irrp
Brummian f flem of niciiici(»« ha* lir»n ndDi'iiil liv tin- [Mexican phyliciaus, wh» had
wiiltrveil the Lad tflccls ofdcbiliiatio:' nicdaiiu';:, p. lyi. li*9.

Q 4 a The

59«

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

The haratillc, or market far trifling and fccond-hand commodities :«
a fqtiare of ftiopi conceived and executed by Don Doininjfo de Trefpa-
lacios, wlien he was fupcrintcndant of tlic city, an olRce not defcribed.
The eolifeo, or theatre, is fniall but handfome ; the ai^ors, commonly
. from Spain, are not the bed, but fuperior to any native performers.
Smoaking is permitted, except when tne viceroy or his lady is prefent •
the women, who fmoak like the men, diverting themfclvcs with throw'
ing the ends of cigars at the oppofite boxes. The fpettators are fome-
times enthuriallic in favour of certain aftreffes : not many years ago, in
•a fit of thi« kind, while an European aftrefs wal repeating a favourite
paflage, onzas of gold were thrown upon the ttage, to the amount of
three thoufand dollars, or about fcven hundred Englifh guineas ; a proof
of Mexican wealth*, or rather extravagance *.

Mexico has imitated Madrid in the recent example of great cleanlincfs.
Not long ago this city was not lighted, nor the ftreets, nor even the foot
paths paved. All this is now executed with fuch neatncfs and pro.
priety, that, according to our author, Mexico may rival any European
capital-. Sewers and water-courfes are opened in the greater part of the
ilreets, which are well paved ; the foot paths being raifed above the
ftreets, to carry off the water. The market places are alfo cleanfed, and
there are many fcavengers and carts to carry off the filth. The tafte of
the Mexicans is alfo improved in their carriages and liveries, which were
formerly heavy, rude, and grotefque ; coachmen being fometimes feen
with only one boot, and the other leg even naked, wlnle the coaches
had curtains on each fide inllead of doors. At prefent they are more
neat and convenient, and fome equipages are even brought from En-
gland, though at an immenfe expetKe. Yet the population is laudablr
iiot confumed in laquies and domettics ; and a white coachman would
be a wonder, all the fervants being mulattoes, or other mingled breeds.
But the fafhion of riding is univerfal, and the number of horfes pro.
digious.

Mexico prefents feveral beautiful public walks, a rarity in the cilics

of Spani(h America, where many have failed, as Thiery obferves, from

the trees having been planted ; while the climate and feafons demand

that they fhould have been raifed from feed fownon the fpot. The

alameJa is however hardly to be rivalled by any city of Spain, being an

oblong fquare, iuclofed with a neat railing of wood painted green, while

in the middle there is a large fountain, and others on the fides. The

foot paffengers enter by four doors in the angles, and the coaches going

to the promenade of Bucareli (a celebrated viceroy 1772—1779) pal»

on one fide, but may alfo make a tour within. This promenade of

Bucareli extends from the arches of Ctiapultepcc to the prifon of th?

Acordada, theie being in the middle a fpacious fquare with a fountain ;

but the coaches can only pafs round, as a return on the fame road is not

permitted. It is vtry little frequented by foot paffengers. The mall

of lilacalco, callrd alfo the Vigat made by the Count de Galvcz, it one

of the nioft pleafing, as it runs by the iide of the canal which goes to

tliat place, and conveys many canoes laden with eatables, tiles, lime, &c.

for the city, the rowers bring often crowned with rcfes, but the ncareft

part ir. now filled up f . The promenade of Guadalupe was begun by

the Count's father, who was alio viceroy. There is alfo a caufey from

• Tae iKcauc ha* hoWfvcr greatly «lfilitx»il firtgc it ii^ brcn governed by a fociety, tht

.: . ; .; . ■ Mexico

Mexico to Gui
cios, becaufe th
Water is intn
of brick ; one I
other by the an
name. There ii
rich order it fro
Humboldt* 1
formed to del^
northern lakes, j
that of Tezcuct
which firft repre
precife idea coul
being Angularly
fmailmap which
iliio the river Tt
river. This can;
the gallery of N
was at length laic
water were thirty
nearly five league
of hills of Noqh;
times exceeding
river, were it not t
in width. Still, 1
fwered, the level b
Englifh engineer v
years. The river
nation of thecanai
they flow into the
Mexico, by his
world, whether w<
and fquares, or th
fometimes beautifi
deur, ii» the con{
America, which e
phia, or other citi<
Having thulj, it
capital, whofe recei
beclofedwith fom
tains, as already r
jeftic trees, and w
taini, as in the val
the fruits of Euro
fields prefent nun
mcreafe the fertilii
«l"(5ts of the gardei
poultry, quails, ai
capital J nor are th

•P.204.tndreq.

tHie great iimujali
•*eiit¥-f>ve jcafd.

J The two flones diif
•"•"f porphyry Hitk glaj

SPANISH I^OMINIONS.

597

Mexico to Guadailupe, tna^'e by orders of Don Domingo de Trefpala.
cios, becaufe the road was dardly pafTable in the rainy feafon.

Water is introduced into Mexico by two aquedufts, neatly conftru^ed
of brick ; one by the Trefpana, the water coming from Santa Fc ; the
other by the arches of Chapultepec, coming from a village of the fame
name. There is however no great abundance of good water ; and the
rich order it from various places in the neighbourhood.

Humboldt* gives a very prolix account of the progrcfs of the canal,
formed to delver the capital from inundations, by evacuating the
northern lakes, and thus preventing them from pouring their waters into
that of Tezcuco. Till the publication of the map of Alzate 1768,
which firft neprefented the courfe of the river Tula, or Motezuma, no
precife idea could be formed on the fubjeft, the gebgraphy of Danville
being firigularly erroneous. GemelH Cateri had indeed publifhed a
fmall map which feems unknown to Humboldt, and prefents the opening
iiito the river Tula, but does not indicate the fubiequent courfe of that
river. This canal was begun in 1607, in the form of a tunnel, called
the gallery of Nochiftongo ; but being fubjedt to many inconveniences,
was at length laid open in the form of an enormous canal, which if the
water were thirty feet deep might admit (hips of the line. Its length is
nearly five leagues, or fifteen miles, and the depth in cutting the chain
of hills of Nochiftongo is from fifty to fixty yards ; the width fome-
times exceeding 100, and prefenting the appearance of an important
river, were it not that the ftream in the dry feafon is not above four yard*
in width. Still, after two centuries, the intention is not perfeftlv an-
fwered, the level being too high for the lake of Tezcuco ; and a modem
Englilh engineer would have accompliihed a far fupeiior work in two
years. The river Tula has a remarkable falto or cataraft at the tcrmi*
nation of the canal, and conduds the waters into that of Panuco, whence
they flow into the gulf of Mexico f .

Mexico, by his account, is one of the mod beautiful cities in the
world, whether we confider the opennefs and regularity of the ftreets
and fquares, or the ftyle of architecture, which is generally pure and
fometimes beautiful. There is alfo a Angularity, an air of exotic gran-
deur, i» the conftruAion, fituation, and fcenery of this metropous of
America, which excites ideas not to be found in Petersburg, Philadel-
phia, or other cities reared with modem regularity |.

Having thuls, it is hoped, given a fufficiently ample defcription of this
capital, whofe recent ftate was little known in gcojjrraphy, the whole fhall
be clofed with fome account of the environs. Ttie furrounding moun*
tains, as already mentioned, are crowned with cedars, and otner ma^
jeftic trees, and with many rare and beautiful (hrubs. On the moun*
tainj, as in the valley, there are handfome village;!, villas and farms } and
the fruits of Europe are mingled with thofe of the country. Verdant
fields prefent numerous herds of cattle, while the rivers and laket
increafe the fertility ; fo that the moit exquifite fruits, and other pro«
dufts of the garden, abound through the whole year. Turkies, gcefe,
pouhry, quails, and many kinds of fifli, contribute to the food of the
capital; nor are there wanting birds of exquifite fong or beautiful plu«

• P. 204. and feq.

fTlie great iiittiidatioiu of the Me of Mnlco occur at intt^'aIl, froa (ixtceq to
iweiity-five ycuM.

X The two fttmes cliiffly nfed lit bniURme; an what HuldboMt calls a porous am^gdalit?,
ind a (xirphyry wub glaiiy IcKf ar, but vottf ^ f uerAS; u U u^tisnz were a conitituent of
porfhyrjf!

Q q 3 mage.

598

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

mage. Agriculture boaftii of flax, hemp, cotton, tobacco, indigo, fugar,
and magueys. The eaftern (here of the lake, as already mentioned
alo^e prel'ents the afpedl of fterility, on account of the fait vapours from
the lake.*

All the iHoifture fnpplied by the chain which furrounds the valley of
Mexico, is there united, and no ftream iffues from it except the rivulet
/Iroydi of Tequifquiac, which in a narrow ravine tnivcrfes the northern
chain of mountains, to throw itftlf into the river Tula, or Mottzuma,
which rifes on the oppofite fide of the chain f.

Among the chief rcforts of the citizens may be named San Angel
and San Auguftin dc las Cuevas, the laft in particular being equal to
the moft, delicious fpot in Spain. The moft celebrated fan£tuary is that
of our lady of Guadalupe, the hiftory of which miraculous image is
printed for the ufe of the devout. There is a Ci^llege, with an abbot,
canons, and prebendaries ; the church being a regular building, with a
nave and two aifles ; the grating of the clioir is of mafly filver, and the
other decorations of correfponduig opulence. In ths neighbourhood is
a well which yields petrol^jtmi. Another fanftuary, or pilgrimage, is
that of our lady de Ids Remedios, on the fpot where Cortez retired wiieii
he was repulfed from Mexico, on what is called tlie noche tr'tfte, or me-r
lancholy night. Water was brought to the fan6luary by Trcfpalacios,
a general bencfaftor, who conllrudted many bridges in the neighbour.
ihood of the capital, appeafed two tunuiUs of Indians, and was a libe-
ral donor to the hofpitals. He firft undertook the work of the drains,
completed in 1797 by his nephew, dean of the royal audience ; fo that
at prefent, at the expence of fome millions, the lake, as already men-
tioned, is confined to the diftance of a Spaiiifli league frpm the capital,
which it c^n no loiiger inundate. Without the barrier, of Santiago is
;the fanftuary of our lady of the Angels, formerly the refidcnce of a her-
mit. * Near that barrier is leen a pifture, reprefentiiig a pious law of
' portez, that the dilatory Indians fhould be whipped to the mafs ; an
'inconfiftency worthy of his period and country J.

At the diftance of five leagues to the fouth-weft from Mexico is the
defart of the Carmelites, in an inclofure of about a league in circuit, the
retreat of the more auftere monks there being in folitary cells, as in the
(defart of !|Batuecas, in Spain. From one cf the heights is difcoveredall
the valley of Toluca, nay the whole plain of Mexico, fixty Spanifh
leagues § in circumference. This defart abounds with various trees, of
which the wood is much efleemed ; wild rocks and flowery (hrubsf .

The aquedudl of Chapultepec adorns the immediate environs ; and on
the hill fo called was a palace of Motezuma. Trafpana is another place
of refort, where there are feveral good houfes ; and many fettle there,
as the air is efleemed very healthy. On the fide of San Lazaro, about
Jialf a league from Mexico, is the Rock of the Baths, which are warm,
but the quality is not afcertained.

There are many other flourifliihg cities in this wide empire. In a com-
mercial point of view the moft interefting are Vera Ct uz and Acapulco,
jhe two chief ports ; the firft on the Atlantic, the fecond on the Pacific
ocean. M. Thiery pafTcd a confiderable time at Vera Cruz in 1777, and
(lefcribes it as fituated in a faiidy and barren plain, with infedious

♦ Eflalla, ^vi. 955. tHumb. 204. J Eftalla,iixvi. 829.

% 11>e old accotnit* eftimate ine e ircumf'erence of the viilley of MpxIco at ninety Ifag'ics,
while it is in i'ai£l oiiij fixty-feven , even reckoning by the ircll of vhc mountains, which fur-
Xound it like a circular wall. Humb. 164.

% ^A^^la, kxvli. 70. See alfu Gsge, who givei an enchaiUing delcriptien of this fpot.
.«.- . ■ ■ '■ •' • . -, ■ 1 . marfhea

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

599

marnies on the foutli*. It fronts the fea in a femicircle, and is inclofed
with a fimple wall or parapet, fix feet high and three broad, furmountcd
by a wooden pallifade in great decay. This wall is flanked with fix ^
feeble baftions, or fquare towers, twelve feet in height. On the fliore
to the S. E. and N. VV. are two redoubts, with fome cannon to defend
the port, which is bad and intricate. The houfes are of good mafonry
in (lone and lime, with wooden balconies, whicH Irave induced fome care-
Icfs travellers to report that the houfes themfelves are of wuod. The
rough ftone ufcd confifts of petrified madrepores ; but a good free-ftone •
is brought from Campechy. Many houfes belonging to mayorazgost
or entailed eftates, have fallen down from the want of repairs. The
ftreets are wide, well paved with pebbles, and kept in excellent order.
The churches abound in decorations of filver, while in the houfes the
chief luxury Cunfilts of porcelain and other Chinefe articles. . The prin.
cipal inhabitants are merchants, but European commerce is chiefly con-
dufted at Xalapa. The population is about feven or eight thoufand ;
the inhabitants are generally proud, indolent, and devout ; but commerce
is well underftood, and there are feven or eight houfes each worth a mil-
lion of dollars. The women are rarely handforae, and live very retired,
the only amufements being a coffee houfe, and proceflions, or religious
mafquerades, the penitents whipping themfelves with much bloodfhed-.
A charity of fix thoufand dollars to marry four poor girls has, as ufual,
paffed to the rich. Oppofite Vera Cruz, at the diftance of four hundred
fathom, is an iflet, on which ftands the caftle of St. John d'Ulloa, which
is tolerably fortified with three hundred pieces of cannon, the weakefl
part being the fouth-eaft ; fignals are made from a high tower. From
forty to fixty ftiips of war, or a hundred merchantmen, might anchor
from four to ten fathom ; but the northerly winds are terrible, and often
drive veffels on (hore. In the rainy feafon the marlhes on the fouth
are haunted by caymans, or alligators, from feven to eight feet in leflgth,
but innocent. The fea-fowl and other birds are innumerable, and feem
fometimes to darken the air ; and the mufquitos are very troublefome.
It need fcarcely be added that Vera Cruz is regarded as the only haven
in the gulf of Mexico ; but one has been recently difcovered in the pro-
vince of Santander, and that of Campechy is not contemptible. Eftalla
informs us, that the north winds are fo furious, that the ladies are ex-
cufed from going to mafs ; and thefc gales fometimes load the walls with
fandf . In the rainy feafon the water regularly falls in the night ; while
at Mexico it is in the afternoon. Some religious women are occupied in
teaching grammar to the parrots ■ of Alvarado, reput'td the beft of all
America. Earthquakes are frequent ; and one in 1780 (hook the houfe
of the governor. Old Vera Cruz is an unhealthy fituation, and the river
is full of caymans, fo ftrong as to draw an ox under water. * They are
fond of the flelh of dogs ; but thefe fagacious animals bark aloud, and
the caymans haften to the fpot ; they then fpeedily afcend the river, and
fwim acrofs, knowing that their enemies can with difficulty fwim againft
the current. A grand caufey is now forming between Vera Cruz and
Mexico at the expence of the merchants of Vera Cruzij:.

The other grand port of the Mexican empire is Acjyjulco, the chiei
mart of the trade with the Philippines, which the Spanifh writers often
call that with China.' When the galleon or Chinefe (hip arrives, the
merchants at Mexico haften to receive their commodities ; but at other

•Thiery/ii. 1,

t£fiaU*,xxvli.98.

Qq4

jHuinb.37,

time

^39

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

times the town is little frequented or peopled, being in a hot and wet cli.
mate, and the S. E. winds in the rainy feafon are ungulrrly deftruftjve
while the falutary north winds of the eaftern fliore are totally unknown •
hence Acapuico is fcarcely inhabited by any Spanifli families, whiie there
9re about four hundred families of Cbinefe, that is, people front the ?hi.
lippines, niulattoes and negroes*. Acapulco ftands under a chain of
granitic mountains, which, by the reverberation of the heat, increafe the
extreme unhealthinefs of the fituationf . Even provifions arefcarce-
and the eity depends on a fupply from the Indians. At the diftance of
9 mufquet fliot ftands, on a promontory, the cattle of San Diego, with
thirty»one pieces of cannon, the greater part twenty-four pounders, to
(defend the haven, which is fafe, and fo fpacious as to contain live hundred
ftiips, the cliief entrance being on the fouth. The governor has the title
-of lieutenant-general of the coaft of the South Sea ; and there are three
Companies of militia, the Chinefe, the Mulatto, and the Negro. The
diftiift produces cotton, maize, pot herbs, and fruits, with fome tobacco-
liar is there a deficiency of cattle or (lieep. -

S^ich are the two chief ports of New Spain ; and before paffin^ to
the other principal towns, it may not be improper briefly to confidor
thofein the central and more celebrated provinces of Tlafcala, Mexico 1,
|ind Mechoacan.

Pucbla de los Angeles is regarded as the moft populous city after
Mexico, the number of fouls being not lefs than fixty thoufaud, while
Quer^taru, the next, falls to forty-fix thoufand. Puebla is in a warm
«nd dry climate, and one of the moll beautiful cities in America, the
churches being fumptuoub, the ftrects broad and regular, with large
fquarcs and handfome houfes§. It is unneceffary to add that there are
many convents, and twelve nunneries. Ttiere are alfo two colleges, and
^ charity fchool for girls. The laft enumeration bore fifteen thoufand
famifles of Spaniards, Creols, and Mulattoes, with three thoufand two
hundred of Mexican Indians ; but a confiderable increafe has lately
taken place in this and other parts of the viccroyalty. There are feve-
ral maiuifa^uries of foap, cotton cloths, tine earthen ware, and many
linds of iron work, particularly fwords, bayonets, &c. celebrated for
their temper and beauty. The lo^p is noted even in Spain, the wadi.
balls being in imitation of many animals and fruits of the country. In
the market much cotton is fold by the Indians, the buyers weighin^r it
and pronouncing the price : but the feller repeats the proccfstill he finds
he can get no more, when he returns and fells it to the firft. The faga-
i:ity of the Indians was here evidenced: a Spaniard having ftulen a horie,
was brought before the judge by the Indian owner, who having no proof
}n his favour, fuddenly threw his cloak over the head of the animal, and
afked the Spaniard of which eye he was blind. The robber, taken by
furprifo, pnd not to (hew a (hort acquaintance with the horfe, anfwered,
of the right eye ; but the Indian anfwered, *' of neither ;" which beinjr
found to be the fad, his horfe was reftored. The ancient town of TlaU
cala ftill enjdys many of its former privile^e<;, though reduced to about
(ive Ifundred f^miiie^, chiefly e»iploycd in weaving cotton. In tlie neigh-

• EftMa, iufvi. nsil. f Huii.h 91 a.

J 'I oliira nnd !..< riiifi arr rci Vtiiod aiiiuri^ tli*- I'itir* of ihr an l.liKhoprir : und T«fiifn
•III) Xiifliini'Ico arpriiie^ nP fie Indian*. Eflalla, x\v\. liCt. v/\\i :»ilds, that the chirritt-
ports afr A('a|iidro and ramiro ; VVra Crux bcin^ in the billu-pnc of I'uebli, lii^t the
ttiit ni' PaMiwo is jinpcdrd bj a bank ol (and.

J li)flttlla| xxvii. 4'(.

. '. ' ^ • |)our|ioo4

SPANISH BOMINIONS.

bourhoad is the plain of Otumba, celebrated foi*a viftory of Cortez, '
whofe allies were the people of Tlafcala and the Otomite Indiana*.

Cordova is a ronfiderable town, the chief trade being in fugar, of
vhich there are thirty-three mills. Eftalla fays there are two hundred
and fixty families of Spaniards, one hundred and twenty^fix of mefiixos,
or defcendants of ^Spaniards and Indians, fixty of mulattoes and ne- °
groes, and two hundred and feventy-three of Mexican Indiansf . Thiery
defcribes Cordova as a large town, with numerous domes, towers, and
fteeples, and a large fquare in the centre, with Gothic arcades on three
fides, the cathedral tilling the fourth, and a fountain of delicious water
in the middle : the ftreets are wide, llraight, and paved, and the houfes
moftly of (tone ; but the inhabitants are indolent, for where nature does
much for man he does nothing for her;}:. The fituation is in a kind of
natural paffage towards the province of Mexico ; the vegetation being
extremely rich and beautiful, on a foH of red clay, from ten to fifteen feet
in depth, producing all the fruits of the two hemifpheres. At the dif-
tance of feven Spanifti leagues, or twenty-eight Englifh miles, Hands the
town of Orizava, in a country of fuch rich pafturage, that in the fpace
of a fquare league our traveller counted eleven flocks, each of more than
fix hundred fheep§. The town js about fifteen hundred fathoms in
length, and five hundred in breadth, with >yide, neat, and well paved
ftreets ; though fuch is the'power of vegetation, that grafs fprings in the
ftreets, while the waters are as pure as cryilal. Population, three thou>
fand whites, and fifteen hundred Indians and negroes ; there beinj tan-
neries and fome manufaAories of coarfe cloth. Here the caravans and
mules repofe, and the value of inland and European articles is eftimatcd.
It is in a vale, furrounded with detached mountains, overihadowed with
the mod verdant forefts ; above which proudly rifes on the weft the vol-
cano of Orizava, covered with perpetual fnow. The houfe of the Car-
melites is of barbaric magnificence. The neighbourhood produces a
great quantity of tobacco. Orizava is on the nigh road between Vera
Cruz and Mexico, being, according to Alcedo, forty-fix leagues to the
eaft of the capital, while he eftimates Vem Cruz at eighty-four leagues,
and only one minute of latitude further to the fouth.

Xalapa is another confiderable town in this fertile part of the vice-
royalty, formerly famous for the fair held on the arrival of the ftated
fleetJ from Europe ; and even fince the commerce has been declared free,
it remains a confiderable mart for European commodities. It ftands on
the fouthern fkirts of a mountain, in a beautiful climate, the foil being
clay, and in parts ftoney, while pure waters iflue from a white fand, and
fertilize the country. The population is two hundred and forty-three
8pani(h famihes. a hundred and eiglity-two meftizos, and three hundred
and fixty-one Indians. When north winds prevail at Vera Ciuz, it
always rains at Xalapa ; but the climate ia efteemed very healthy.
There is a regular inn, and a ftill better at Pcrote, a day's journey nearer
the capital ; but the new road pafTcs by Cordova, Orizava, and ritcbla.
The purging powder of the country is made of the root of a plant to
which the town gives the name of jalap.

Nut to mention Pachuca, eighteen leagues on the nerth-eaft of Mexico,

•Tlip cclrhmtril liiOorimi Soli*, whofe fBiTls howfvrr trr not alwavs cxaiJt, defcrihe*
TUfriilii a^a iiiountainuus |>ruviiKe, at t\)r brgiiiniii^ ot the grand ridi^e, l>y wlk'u-h they
cuiiimviiiraird wiih tlit- Oioiniie* tht-ir allki. Tla> volcsnu vi ['o\nKixc\ po, on ittriu)itioii
in the time of C'uruv, wii« cxplureil liy Ordaz \ ami tlir fulphtir was uM to inuke eun-
powdrr. Clmrlrs V. rctmtd'.'ii Ut(i*/< anil K'^ye lilni I'uriUUU » vulcann i'lUllu, xxvii. U9.

t iilkila, jutvii na, ; 'iliivvy, u. 66, i Ilk ly , li. 7 1 .

(ormerly

5o2

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

formerly famous for its mines, now inundated, nor Mextitlan, forty
leagues to the E.N. E. near the Sierra Madre, or mother chain of
mountains, the city of Queretaro, on the N. W. deferves notice. It is
feated in the country of the Otomite Indians, who were conquered by
the Spaniards in 153 1*. Queretaro is faid to be one of the moft beau,
tiful and opulent cities of the viceroyafty, and the,4noft exteniive after
Mexico ; the fituation being in a delicious vale, watered by a river,
which is divided into numerous channels, and conveyed into two tbou.
fand gardens, producing all tlic fruits and flowers of Europe and Ame-
From three grand fquares proceed numerous ftreets towards the

rica.

four cardinal points of the compafs ; and there is a celebrated aquedud^,
fupported by more than forty arches, of the height of thirty-five yards,
which coll one hundred and fourteen thoufand dollars. The aqueduds
in general are the moft beautiful objedls of aicliitefture in New Spain.
The parochial church is magniticciit, and the curacy one of the richeft
in the viccroyalty. Another church is fo fumptuouily adorned, that the
altar is of mafTy filver. There are three thouiand families of Spaniards,
meftizos, and mulattoes, and about as many of Otomite Iiidians ; fo
that the population is computed at forty feven thouiand fouls, among
which are many rich and noble families. The manufatlures arc tine
cloths, woollen ftuffs, coarfe linens ; and the (hops are very numerous,
nor are the tanneries without reputation. This charming city is forty.
two leagues diftant from Mexico.

Puebla and Queretaro may thus be regarded as the two chief cities
after Mexico ; and they arc fuccceded by Guadalaxara and Guatimala,
feats of two royal audiences. Guadalaxara is more cxtenfive than popu-
lous, containing from eight to nine thoufand families of Spaniards, inef.
tizov, and mulattoes ; nor can the Indians he included, as they live in
farms and villages. There are eight fquares, many convents as uiual,
^nd two colleges for education. The Royal Audience was cftablifliedin
I (;48. Guadalaxara llandfe on the river Barnaja, or Efquitlan, which
Hows from the lake of Mechoacan, and runs rapidly to the notth-wtft;
there being a great cataradl at the diftance of tour leagues. The plain
of Guadalaxara is likewife watered with many rivulets, and furrounded
with hills, overihadowed with pines and oaks. The city boails of ex-
cellent artizans, and the people arc generally fair and well formed, and
celebrated for induftry and honefty. There is here alfo a hanrifomc
aquedud, and numerous gardens repleniflied with excellent fruits. Ac-
cording to the memoirs of Trefpalacios, ufed by Eftalla, the daughters
of black and white parents are here entirely white, not mulattoes, as in
the other provinces. The ftreets are unpaved, and the carriages drawn
by unfliod mules, fed with mai*,e, which cofts four reals the bufhel.
There are frequent tempefts, but it never fnows ; and when, by way of
phaenomenon, afliower fell, the inhabitants imagined that the end of the
world was come ; and the like fuperftition was ftiewn at Mexico a few
years ago, on the appearance of an aurora borealis.

The population of Guanaxuato is computed at 41,000, but the rich
furrnunding mines have attracted nearly 30,000 inhabitants to the neigh-
bourhood f .

Guatimala, the feat of the third Royal Audience, was founded by the
name of St. Jago, at the fide of a volcano, and wps totally ruined by an
earthquake, 1775, but has been rebuilt at fome diftance. Of the new
city the accounts are very imperfed, though a gazette is there publi(hed>

• £ftallaj xxvii. 107, who Trequcntly coflei Alctdo. f Hunb. 247.

whith

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

603

svhich contains curious articles on antiquities and natural hiftorjr *.
The prefident of the kingdom of Guatimala, which contains many
ample provinces, as above explained, is commander in chief, but fub-
ordinate to the viceroy of Mexico. The royal audience, or high court
of jullice, was eftablifhed in 1544, and in 1742 this city became an
archiepifcopal fee. It is probable that *hc churches and convents have
not been forgotten ; and there is an univerfity which begins to adopt
the ufeful plans of education. The inhabitants are celebrated for
pcrfonal beauty, and fweetnefs of difpofition, the women being reputed
the handfomell in Spanifti America, probably owing to the moifture
of the climate. The number of inhabitants has not been afcertained,
nor even mentioned by any writer, but is' probably equal, if not fuperior,
to that of Guadalaxara.

Such are fome of the principal cities of this extenfive empire, but
there are a few others remarkable as capitals of provinces, or from
their pofitions, which it may be proper briefly to defcribe, in order
to prefent a more complete idea of a country fo little known to the
European reader. A (hort progrefs (hall therefore be made from the
fouthcrn to the northern extremities.

Meritfla is the chii.'f town of Yucatan, an intendancy of New Spain,
and a vaft plain, traverfed from N. E. to S. \V. by a chain of hills, the
parts towards the E. being mod fertile. The little port of Merida,
called Sizal, is oppofite to a sand bank twelve leagues in length -f.

The capital of the province of Veragua is a city of the fame name,
alfi) cUled St. Jago, as being under the protedlion of St. James. This
is a finall town tolerably fituated, in a warm and moid climate, abound-
ing in maize, yucca a root of which bread is made, plantains, and cattle,
but principally in fwine |. The natives dye their cotton of a rich and
permanent purple, with the juice of a fea fnail found on the coaft of
the Pacific, akin to the murex of the ancients; with which, and fome
gold from their mines, they carry on trade with Panama, and the
provinces of the kingdom of Guatimala. There is an elegant hofpital j
and fourteeH villages are fiibjedt to the jurifdi(^ion of this town, which
is ruled by a governor. This province, as already mentioned, is one
of the three whiih compofed the kingdom of Tierra Firme, the politi-
cal arrangement having, as in the Kuflian empire,, ijet afide the geo-
graphical, for it is by all the Spanifli writers allowed to belong to
North America. It is a rugged country, full of inacceflible mountains,
abounding however with excellent and beautifjid woods, and the
paitures of the vnlcs are extremely rich. There are beautiful little
moiikics, buff colour, with a white crown, but fo delicate, that they
foon die if carried the fmallell diftance from their native clime. It may
be faid to raiu every day in the year, and often with terrible thunder
and lightning, while from the mountains on thp north defcend rapid
and d.uigerous torrents. The gold mines are opulent, the bed bemg
ilyled that of Guerrero, having been difcovered by a perfon fo called,
but they are little worked, becaufe every article muft be carried on the
(lioulders of the Indians over the precipitous mountains. The great
Colon, who difcovered this country in 1503, was created duke of
Veragua. The Duraccs, and otlnr favage tribes, live naked in the

* Arc«)r(l>n)( toMr. Arrflwfn)ith'« mapof the WeA Indifs, New GuatiiuaUfltrdt about
OiKcugraphivitl miirt further tothr fuuth, nu tlic riv«r Vacctf, nctr ihe Uarra d« IlU|ia
(li D'Aiivilk', now callctl the liarLour ui (juatimala.

t Humb. -iut).

Alredu m vote.

i.«

mountiinfiy

■ .* , t

6o4

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

mountains, on roots and fruits ; but many began to be converted i*
4760 by the Francifcans, who have founded fome Indian villages.

The capital of Coftarica, the moft fouthern province of the kingdom
of Guatiniala, is Cartago, now a miferable place without any trade,
yhis province has feveral mines of gold and filver, whence the name •
and the chocolate is excellent. There is a large port, or rather fmal{
bay, on the Pacific, that of Nicoya, or the gulf de las Salinas, nottd
for the pearl fiijiery, and for the (hell fi(h which dyes purple ; while
on the Atlantic is the port called that of Cartago, though at a great
dit^ance from the town.

Leon is the capital of the extenfive province of Nicaragua, fituated
on a large lake of frefli water, abounding with fi(h. It is a bifhopric,
but a town of little importance. Granada * is another little town, en
the great lake of Nicaragua. Both were pillaged by the buccaneers of
America towards the end of the feventeenth century. Realejo is a
fmall entrenched town, with an excellent port, 'ferviug Leon the
capital.

The northern provinces, in the centre, prefent no remarkable towns,
the fliores being loaded with Ihuals, which impede navigation and
commerce. Campechy, in Yucatan, pofTefles nevcrthclefs a tolerable
haven, defended by three forts, and not a little frequented. The town
is fniall, with two or three chwrches and convents ; chief trade dying
woods, wax, ^nd cottons. Truxillo, in Honduras, alfo defervcs
mention.

Ciudad Real is the capital of Chiapa, and a bifhopric, with a
beautiful cathedral, three convents, and a nunnery. The trade cho-
eolate, cotton, wool, fugar, and the precious cochineal, a peculiar
produd, which does not feem to extend much farther to the fouth.
The population is infignificant, but many families pretend to great
antiquity. The women were accullomed to take chocolate in the
church, till the bilhop ifTued his excommunication againft this
praftice.

The city of Guatimala has been already defcribed. Among tlie
fmall diftri£ls forming what is called the province of Guatimala in the
maps, the chief town of Soconnfco is uueguetlan. Sonfonate con-
tains about 'one thoufand nine hundred fouls, fourteen hundred being
Spanifh. Near it are three volcanoes* and the high ridge of Apane«a,
running many leagues E. and W.

The town of Oaxac.i, formerly called Guaxaca and Antequera, the
capital of the province of the fame name, ia celebrated for abundant
harvefts of cochineal. M. Thiery, who vifitcd this city in 1777,
defcribrs the iituation as truly magnificent, at the opening of three
large plains, one of which, according to our author, extends to the
town of Guatimala, a prodigious diitance. It is watered by a beau-
tiful river, while on the N. E. feveral aqueduAs bring pure and
abundant waters from the mountains. The air is clear and healthy,
being refre(hed in the morning by the eatt wind, and by the weft
in the evening. His thermometer, that of Bourbon, was at 16 above
the freezing point in the morning, and 22" at noon. This was towards
the end of the month of May ; but he adds, that the climate prefented
a perpetual fpring, though in the latitude of 30'' : he (hould nave faid
17^ 30', but according to Alccdo 18^ 2'. In fine, adds Thiery,
magnificence of fituationi artificial beauty, cacellebce of foil| tempera-

* Enoncovfly csll«(l Nictngns in oar m»f*, while tbtrt h r.o town of that n«mc.

tilrt

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

605

ture of the climate, abundance of fruits of Europe and America in
conftant fucceflion — ■ nothing but fuperior induftry is wanting to render
Oaxaca an enchanting city. The interior correfponds with the numerous
fpires and domes, which give a majeftic appearance. The form id an
oblong fquare, about fixteen hundred fathom by one thoufand, (nearly
two miles by one and a quarter,) including the fuburbs, which are
full of gardens, and of nopaleriet, that is, plantations of nopals, a kind
of caft'is, which feeds the cochineal infe(^. The ftreets are wide and
ftraight, well paved ; and the houfes, of two floors, are built of free-
ftone. The town houfe in the. great fqiiare, a recent ereAion, is built
with a ftone of a fea-green colour. The bifhop's houfe and the cathe-
dral form two other fides of the fame fquare, furrounded with arcades,
as ufual in ,Spani(h towns, an ufeful pra^^^tice againft the rain and the
fun. The other churches and monafteiies, which are numerous, are
folidly built, and richly decorated. There is a bifhop and a provincial
governor fubordinate to the governor of Guatimala, to which audience
the province belongs*. Our author adds, that the population, com-
rifing Indians, mulattoes, and negroes, is about fix thoufand fouls ;
ut he has certainly miftaken the Spanifti computation, which is by
families ; and Alcedo informs us, that there are fix thoufand families ;
and that in 1766 there were more than twenty thoufand communicants,
but many were probably from the country. Suppofing four perfons
jn a family, the number would l>e twcnty-four thoufand -j-. The pro-
vince of Oaxaca is efteemed the moft fertile of the whole kingdom of
Guatimala, and, befidos cochineal, produces an abundance of excellent
chocolate. There are man u factories of black wax ; and the kernels of
a fruit are ingenioufly painted with miniatures. This celebrated city is
however fubjedt to earthquakes, and fuffered confiderably during the
lall that happened in New Spain f:.

Tehuacan, or according to fome Tcguacan, is a pleafant town between
Oaxaca and Orizava. It is feated in a delightful vale, near a river of
the fame name, called alfu Kio Grande, of a nitrous quality, and fo
etrifying a nature, that the ihores refemble ruinous walls. There are
^our churchev ; and the itreets* fquares, and houfes are neat anQ
roodem. The chief market is of wheat, which is excellent, and. the
pomegranate! are highly eileemed. Befides numerous families of Spa*
niards and mulattoes, there are about two thoufand and eighty Indians.
M. Thiery approached this town on his journey to Oaxaca; and faysi
there are two wheat liarvells, one in May, the other i.: September.

Aft#r palling the central provinces, of which the chief towns have
been ali-eady defcribcd, we arrive at Mechoacan, or rather Valladolid,
I confideratle town, but without beauty or tiade, there being only
live hundred families of Spaniards and mubttoes. The cathedral,
begun in 1738, it of the Tufcan order. But the city of Ut/ila
Pafquaro is the capital of the province, and feat of tlic governor. This
city, more briefly named Pafquaro, is nine leagues to the S. \V. of
Valladolid, in a pleafant Otuatiun to the fouth of a great lake, twclvs
leagues, or foity-eight Britifli miles in circumference, Itudded with

* Tl^iery, I. n«. .' ' ' *

t I'hipi^ tiAiinatPS die population of Onxiraat 0000, but the eiiume ration of ijd'i

;JIVC!14,400. Huillb. ab.'k.

I Among ibc pri>du6Uof ihc pmvinre Ate natntil by EiYnllftdii^ar, cutton, rice, clioco*
lalp, plaiitaiiM, cuchiiml, rnflln ; ilicrr are ininu ol ^oM, I'lUtr, lead, ond cryllul ; an^
mill) ol tht rivtrsi roll particles mC pruld, luvii, V3| He ut ibv iMac tilue tnp rcflw hit tepet
nthewAut viiuduAiy ia theiiiUAbtuiMi. . .

pleafant

Li;

6o6

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

pleafant ides, and fo abundant in fifh, as to fupply 'n part the city of
Mexico. The population is five hundred families of Spaniards and
mulattoes, and two thoufand families of Indians, chiefly occupied \a
fugar mills, and in the copper mines which are in the vicinity.

Zacatecas, the capital of a diftridl formerly celebrated for the
richelt mines of New Spain, has declined with thefe mines, and
Guanajuato, about a hundred and forty Britifh miles to the S. E. has
become the chief feat of mineral wealth. Zacatecas contained about
twelve thoufand families of Spaniards and mingled breeds, though
confifting jhiefly of one ftreet, in .a deep paffage between high rocks
crowned with cottages. San Luis de Potofi on the S. E. is faid by
Alcedo to contain only fixteen hundred families of Spaniards, mu-
lattoes, and Indians, though it has fix magnificent churches. The
ridge of St. Peter, five leagues from the city, contained rich mines of
gold and filver, but they are now in part exhaufted, and the fuel has
become fcarce. The opulence of this city has in courfe declined, and
the chief trade is in goat fkiiis and tanned leather. Guanajuato has
■ not profited by this decline, being merely a mining llation, between the
two capital towns of Guadalaxara and Queretaro. •

The furtheft town of any note, towards the north, is Dnrango, more
remarkable for the extent of the bilhopric than fur its population, which
only confifts of five thoufand in all, even comprifirig the companies of
mihtia to defend it againft the Indians, ftill almofl the fole inhabitants
of the kingdom of New Bifcay,of which it is the capital. Tne chmate
is benign and healthy, and the foil extremely fruitful in wheat, maize,
and fruits, while the paftures abound with excellent cattle. There are
four convents and three churches, on^ of them on a hill without the
city. There is here an office of the royal treafury, to colleft the
duties on the numerous mines in New liifcay. The bifliopric wai
founded in 1620, and is of a prodigious extent, over the whole pro.
vinces of New Bifcay, that is, Tepeguana, Taraumara, Topia, Batopilas,
Culiacan, Cinaloa, Oilimuri, Sonora, Pimcria.

It has already been mentioned, that the northern provinces cannot be
faid to be peopled by the Spaniards, who have merely edablifiieJ
religi«U8 mimons among the favagcs. The garrifon of Arifpe *, in
Sonora, was the reiidence of the commander in chief of the noithern
provinces f , (vho has latterly refided at Chihuahua, which was fouiuled
in 1691, population about 7000. There are three or four churches,
and a military academy.

Even Santa Fe, the capital of New Mexico, is rather a villa-** thai:
a town, but delerves defcription on account of its fingular and remote
pofition, being computed by the Spanifh authors at the dillance of
fix hundred leagues, two thoufand four hundred Britifh miles to the
N. of the capital city of Mexico. It was founded in 1682, on the
Ikirts of a high chain of mountains, giving birth to a clear river abound-
ing in excellent trout. This river ifTiies from a lake formed by iiu
mi-rous fprings on the fummit of the mountaifi, and pafTcs tlirough tin'
middle of the town, whicli in lat 36*^, ha? a climate rclembling Spain,
with fealonable rain a\id fnow ; the fpring being nild, while the
fummer heats mature cotton in abundance The nijpulation coiililU
of three hundred Spaniih families ; the Indians u ll)«c dillrid having;

• At Arifpp the ttlle utenfils are muftly of gold ; anfl the inlmbiianw celcbraltil for tluir
•fbanity. Pike,
f i^iitillun, 4a.

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

€oJ

BO defire to live in the fame town witk their mailers. The furrounding
territory is clear of woods, fertile and pieafant, producing wheat, maize*
garden plants, fruits, and particillarly grapes, of which etteemed wines
are made. The paftures are well watered, and well repleniftied with
horfes, cattle, and flieep : the Rio Bravo fpreads fertility around,
rifing, it is faid, fifty leagues to the N. W. of the capital, and its
margins are adorned with beautiful woods, while the dream abounds
with excellent fifh. The neighbouring mountains are cloathed with
tall barren pines, and with a fmallet fort, which bears large cones ; the
other trees are oaks of different kinds, lapines, and others, which form
excellent timber. But in the fouthern part of the province is a defart
of 250 miles. The animals are deer, bears, wolves, foxes, wild flieep,
iind particularly (lags of the fize of a mule, of which the horns, according
to our author, are not lefs than two yards in length, prdbably the
moofe deer. There are mines of tin, which however do not defray
the expence of working. The province is infefted by a tribe of favages
called Cumanches *, and the fouthern part by the ftill more ferocious
Apaches.

Mr. Pike's account of Santa F« will be found intereiling. It may
be proper to premife that this ingenious and fpirited traveller was
forced to vifit it againft his will, having unexpe^edly paifed into the
Spanifli territory by having millaken, amid the fnowy mountains, the
River del Norte for the Red River. " Here we changed horfes and
prepared for entering the capital, which we came in fight of in the
evening. It is fituated along the banks of a fmall creek, which comes
down from the mountains, and runs welt to the Rio del Norte ; its
length on the creek may be eftimated at one mile, and is but three
ilreets in width. But its a-ppearance from a didance ftruck my mind
with the fame eSeO, as a fleet of the flat bottomed boats« which are
feen in the fpring and fall feafons, afcending the Ohio river. There
are two churches, the magnificence of whofe ileeples forms a ftriking
contrail to the miferable appearance of the other houfes. On the fide
of the town is the fauare of foldiersj houfes, forty on each fide. The
public fquare is in the centre of the town, on the north fide of which
is fituated the palace (as they term it) or govemment-houfe, with the
quarters for ffuards, 8cc. The other fide of the fquare is occupied by
tne clergy and public offices. In general the houfes have a fhed before
the front, fqme of which have a flooring of brick ; this occafions the
(Ireets to be Tery narrow, fay in general 25 feet. The fuppofed popu-
lation is 4.5CO fouls."

Sante Fe (lands 011 a fmall dream which flows into the river Del
Norte. The houfes are generally only one dory high, with flat roofs,
and have a very mean appearance on the out fide, but forae of them are
richly furniflied, efpccially with plate f .

The next towns worth notice in the province are Albuquerque and
PafFo del Norte.

In the province of Texas, which properly forms part of Lotiifiaiia,
a ftation or two may deferve mention. The giirrifon of San Antonio'
de Bejar is regarded as the capital of the province of Texas, alfw

• The fnvaqes on the wed of New Mexico arc tlir Sf-ris ^'wlio n'to [m^'.^i tlie l(le of
Tiburoii), the Moquis, and Apaches ; on the «ail tlie Lii)ants and Luinanches. An-

t Near Santa F^ there ij a Uratuin of talc In a mouniaiii, wliich U uftJ inftead of g!aft
» Oie windowi of that town, and l«Teral villagM in the north. — I'ikc.

7 ridicul'Jiifly

(SoS

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

ridicutouQy called the New Philippines. It vras founded in tju
confiding of a captain, a lieutenant, and one company of foldiers.

" St. Antonio, the capital of the province of Ti xas, lies in 29° cq'
N. lat. 101° W. long, and is fituatcd on the'head waters of the river of
that nan\e, and perhapR contains two thoufand fouls, the moft of wliotn
refide in mifcrable mud-wall houfes covered with thatch grafs roofs.
The town is laid out on a very grand plan. To the E. of it 0.1 the
other fide of the river is the ftation of the troops. About two, three
and four miles from St. Antonio are free miflions, forrnerly flourifhing
and profperous. Thefe buiklings for folidity, accommodation, and
even majelly, were furpaffed'by few that I met with in New Spain*."

Our enterprifing author adds, that Nacogdoches is merely a ftation
for troops, and contains nearly 500 fouls ; it is fituated on a fmall (treatn
of the river Toyac f.

The ftation of Cenis, which Alcedo pofitively afcribes to Louifiana,
is now a mere Indian village, with the ruins of a fort built by the French.
That called Nachitoches, from an Indian tribe, friends of the French,
and enemies of the Spaniards, was a fmall fort, built in an iflaird of the
Red River by fome French yeterans. But the ftation of Adayes, or
Adaes, was regarded by the Spanifti writers themfelves as the extreme
fortrefs in this quarter : it was feated in a fertile country, at the diftance
of two leagues from a lake of the fame name, which abounds in fifh.
In the middle of the lake, in front of the garrifon, there is a hill, or
rock, of a pyramidal form, more than one hundred yards in circum-
ference, the ftone of which it is compofed, refembhng cryftal in its
refle£lion of the folar rayi, and it is at the fame time the higheil in the
diftrid^. In fome parts this lake is five leagues in diameter, and
may be ten in circumference, with a gulf which may be navisrated by
large veiTels, and could not be founded with a rope of one hundred and
eighty fathoms :J:. The vicinity abounds in wild cattle, bears, and
beavers ; and the foil is fertile in maize and other grain. The garrifun.
ufed to contift of a captain, with a company of fifty feven men.

Edifice 3-2 The chief edifices are the cathedrals, churches, and
convents, as may be expefted where the clergy arc fo predominant,
that civil architecture, and civil affairs, are almoft entirely negleftcd.
The cathedral of Mexico is regarded as the mod fplendid. It is of
great fize, divided into five naves or avenues, three open for the
procefiiunsy and two containing chapels and altars ;' the length being
four hundred geometrical feet, and the breadth one hundred and ninety-
five, with one hundred and fixty-fonr windows §. The building com-
menced in 1573, and was completed in 1667, cofting one million feven
hundred and tifty-two thoufand dollars ; in 1 743 it was adorned with
a beautiful altar by Balbas. The choir is decorated with four pulpiti
or rather galleries, joined by a railing of what our author ftylcs Cliincfe
metal» probably tutenague ||, coveiTd with fmall lamps: at great
folcmnities the illumination is magnificent, and refkdled by numcrout
ornament5 of maffy filver.

• Fikp's Tmvelt.

f The moft itortltem ftation in that quarter 1* Port OiiyljortM* ofdic Naehitocbes, feven
]«^;ii09 to the eaft of thr aiiclrnt iitudiiun of A'iayei. C)n <lie iionh-wciV of Clu)b(inir ii
Spanilh lake, in the midft ol whicli is a large roci< lovcreii wi(h ilalaciilts. At'ter\ftfdt
appear the French fettlcmenta of Loutiiana. — Hunbuliit, ■.'>t7.

X This laice i« unknown in all the awps, as is ail'u thut of Si, AuB| if not tliA iuut.

I EataJU, xxvi. 371* '

N III •uotlwr plaet, 818, hecklUitaUodvf tanbu.

J ROAOI.]

IIOAD'S.] No
Mexican empire,
negledt ; and the
by £ Italia as fuch
length, and even
here tranflated *.
that, at the end o
as negleded as at
rafltnents, and a tl
adive aud.intelligf
and the road was
Cordova, and O
leagues, each leag
eighty leagues amc
high roads of Sp:
waiied twenty.two
lefsthjin thirty-fiv(
value of commoditii
eleven dollars. Tl;
carriages, while th«
employed ; and the
to the capital war, n
there is only one lai
ilmfted. The nun
and the expence is p
while, on a good ro
ei^ht days. On th
beds being a kind
obliged to bring all .
ters were ufed ; while
According to the iaj
the new road from]
Pucbia, and might
beft in Europe. It
derful exertion, whc,
of the United Stat)
Philadephia to Newf
Manufactures!
much confeqqcnce.
Indians. There arel
«liial to the Spanilhl
and earthen ware, (
periodical publicatio]
the manufiftures ai|
Guadalaxara they m^
even to Spain, wheri
w»men. In the cit]
cloth, fome efteemec
accuttomed to keep 1
^e parent country.
I Mexico^ are highly

•Vagero, iotvi.361.!
. t M T|,ie,yf ^, n

^»fM. f.) called I.ecaufe tl
|*tl'!hl'^'^"'^ft'"«'velf

SPANISH IJOMINfONS.

€d9

Road's. 3 No commercial canal appears to have been executetl in the
Me'xican empire. Even the roads remained in a ftate of cotnpk-td
negleft > and the new highway from Vera Cruz to Mexico is regarded
by EfcJla as fuch a furprifina; effort, that he has described it at great
length, and even repeated his defcription, of wiiich a part fliall hi
here tranflated *. It was, fays he, a difgraCe to the Spanifh nation,
that, at the end of two cenlxiries and a half, this road continued to be
asnegle£ted as at the time of the conquell, full of dangers and emb'
rafTments, and a thoufand inconveniences. ' At length, About 1796, i*
aftive and. intelligent viceroy, Branciforte, unilerto(ik this gieatdelign J
and the road was begun to be con<lu£led by Puebia de los Angeles,
Cordova, and Orizava. The dlllance is about ei;j;hty Americati,
leagues, each league 6F five thoufand .varas of Caflille, fo that lh6
eighty leagues amount to fifty of thofe meafiired and marked on the
high roads of Spain. During this diilance, the caravans of mulei
wailed twenty-two days in the dry fi^afon, and during the rains not
lefsthjn thirty-five days were employed, fo as greatly to enhance the
value of commodities, a mule's load from Vera Ciuz to Mexico coding
eleven dollars. Three quarters of the road are plain, aud proper for
carriages, while the roll is mountainous, fo tliat ho carriage Could be
employed ; and the expence of bringing a new coacli from Vera Crui
to the capital war> not Win than three hundred dulliirs. In all thisfpace
there is only one large river to pafs, and a bridge might be eafily con^*
iliufted. The numbef of mule loads is about i'uily tho .fund annually,
and the expence is prodigious where large articlcji cannot be tranfported;
while, on a good road, waggons might perform the journey in leven or
ei^ht days. On the ancient road the inns were milerable, the only
beds being a kind of tables, as in a barrack, and the traveller was
obliged to bring all his provilions. From Vera Cniz to Perote large lit\
terswere ufed; while from Pv rote to Mexico carriages were employed -j**
According to the lad information which Eftalla could procure, in 1798,
the new road from Mexico to Vera Cruz was already extended tb
Pucbla, and might compare in breadth, level, and bridges, with the
beft in Europe* It is to be hoped that it is now completed — a won-
derful exertion, when we confider the numerous roads in the territory
of the United States, who have ordered a good carriage way froih
Philadephia to New Orleans, a diftance of one thoufand nviles !

Manufactures.]] Tiie manufadlnrcs of New Spain are not of
tnuch confeqi|ence. Coarfe cottons form the univ..rfal diefs of the
Indians. There are many tanneries, but the leather is far ffom bein^
equal to the Spanilh ; and the fame obfervation will apply to the glafa -
and earthen ware, although the materials are cxcelknt %. A cheip
periodical publication, deicribing the arts, machines, and difcoveries in
the manufmAures and agriculture would be of fingular utihty. In
Guadalaxara they make eartheni jars of a fweet fccnt, which an? brought
even to Spain, where they are fometimes eaten by the caprice of the
women. In the city of Queretaro there are variou? mani'faftures of
cloth, fome eftecmed fuperior to thofe of Spain, atid the foldiers are
accutlomed to keep their liniforms, as a fplendid drefs on their feturn to
the parent country. The hams of Toluca, twelve leagues S. W. from
Mexico, are highly etteemed. In Puebia there are forty-three manu-

• Viagero, «ivi..161. 369.37. fl4. an. ■ m « » »

I t M. Thjeryfayi, th^a tlte only iniw to the fouuiwavl arp^lip C^fus Ktvi'to Or royal
Wfw, fo called hecaiife they fcrv* a» courtb of Juillct, wliile In the lughi thoyalljid •
taiferable lotl|in|j for !ra\-elkrs.

(ift^i:)M

(JlO

SPANIStI DOMINIONS.

faAurcs of woollen cloth, but the deareil isbniy fix reals a yard. There
sire alfo po teries and glafs houfes, and one thoufand two hundred and
twenty-two looms tor veils, mantles, and other articles of fine cotton
fome mixed with filk. In the province of Oaxaca there are only two
manuFadtilres of indigo, and tive hundred and feven looms employed in
weaving cottons. Valladelid has thirty-four manufadlures of wool and
cotton, while Potofi has only one, and Zacatecas none. In the diftridt
of Guanajuato there are a great number of looms for woollens, the
dcarcft being nine reals a yard. The manner of weaving appears to be
bs fimple as in Hindoftan, yet the war having embarrafled the importa-
tion of European articles, they were imitated with confiderahle fuccefs
and even blond lace has been carried to great pcrfeftion. The maiiu-
f^Aure of plate is carried on to a great extent. Silk is found wild it
the province of Oaxaca. The cochineal, a rich article, belongs to
agviculture.

Commerce.] The commerce of New Spahi is of great extent and
importance, and has recently undergone confiderahle improvements,
which deferve illuftration. The Chinefe fhip, fo called becaufe it came
from the Philippines, ufed to arrive yearly at Acapulco, and was an
objeft of prey to the Englifh marine in time of war. While Eftalla
loudly accufes us of infatiable ambition, he ought rather to have faid
avarice, to which juflice has often been facrificed in a Spaniih war.
The recent monarchs, Charles III, and his fucceffor, the reigning
fovereign, have exerted themfelves fo beneficially !r. favour of the
American colonies, that more has been done during ti.e laft aad prefent
reign, than for the whole preceding period. The liberty of comraetce,
and the new fyftem of ftib>delegation, have already produced fuch ad-
vantages as to overcome the weak declamations of thofe interefted in
'the ancient monopoly, and the diforders of the political and commercial
eftabliihments. America was formerly regarded merely as a country
•f mines ; but now all the other branches of induftry are cultivated,
and the commerce is greatly increafed fince the year J 778, when
greater freedom began to be introducer'. At firft, however, the mer-
chants, feeing that they could no longer make fuch exorbitant gains,
withdrew their (lock, and laid it out in farms, mines, and mort^rages,
leaving trade to new fpeculators of fmaller. capital, but of greater in-
formation, and who had not been corrupted by exceffive profits gained
without any rifle. The new men were contented with moderate ad-
' vantages, and did not afpire to found mayoraxgot, or entailed eftates,
or other eilablidiments of equal utility to fociety. Thus two advan>
tagea arofe from the liberty of commerce : induftrious individuals and
the general mafs were enriched, while the great capitals of the former
Kionopolifts returned to fupport agriculture and the mines. The num-
ber of (hops has been greatly increafed. The imports have alfo
augmented, fo that at Vera Cruz alone they amounted, in 179a, to <
fourteen millions twenty-three thoufand eight hundred and eighty-nine
dollars. Our author proceed^ to explain the beneficial effeSs of the
new fyftem upon agriculture, which he proves by the increafe of the
tythes ; and upon the mines by the increafed quantity of the coinage;
both which efFe£ls are large and apparent. The duties alfo teftify the
rife of trade, upon a medium of thirteen years» compared with thirteen
preceding the change ; the advantage in favour of the former beiog
more than fourteen millions of dollars. The merchants are no longer
fubjrfi to the monopolifts of the capital, but proceed diredly to Vera
Cruz to buy their commodities i ana thul alfo avoid a duty of fix per
cent, payable on entering the metropolii. Several fmali cxpencct at

alfo

llfo avoided; an

goods are not 01

abundance, the p

From various

advantages of tht

points of view ;

raifiiig occafional '.

hands, inftead of

ill expenfive founrl

are many merchan

without any impe(

innumerable, thou

being dependent u;

of eafe among the

ancient fyftem, th«

extravagant and ca

wal^eof their reve

manycircunaftances

trejfury ; at prefen

theatre of the capita
cleared twelve thoul
eda^ Vei-aC?uz, at
EH alia, as alreac
New Spain, or in of
at three millions an»
thirteen and fourtee
does not confums i
filkj, linens, fine wc
The importations wl
the change of faftiic
learned from the det
For example, the/]
to the women of fu
Even the nuns wear|
thepooreft women
cloak, as a fliawl in k
«ver the fhoulder, ol
They are of fijk, o4
and one broad ; but]
half^ many are er
bordered with gold
gjldf. filver. and filL
Thofe of Puebla fell
Sttltepeque and Tenf
one may coil fifty dJ
**!>, and elegance]
rthtott not worth ii

Je a valuable article,!
Ipunare alfo in jJ
PwuKh.rhare*, aijd |
*Je««. ftc. will alf<^
eftaWiAnaent of coc
"'ould alfo be augn
in the capital wer» a
"fo wa^i, labpurl

SPAITISH DOMINIONS.

6x1

the
•ater

llfo avoided ; and there being a greater concurrence of bitye
goods are not only more fpeedily lold, but being imported in g
abundance, the prices are confiderably reduced.

From various calculations, which need not here be repeate< the
advantages of the new fyftem are demonftrated, in various important
points of view ; and if the parent country find greater difficulty in
raifiiig occafional loans, it is becaufe the capitals are difperfed in many
hands, inftead of being confined in a few, who often employed themi
in expenfive foundations of religious colleges or convents. Yet there
are many merchants who can difburfe twenty or thirty thoufand dollars,
without any impediment ; and they who can advance fmaller fums are
innumerable, though formerly there were none of this laft clafs, all
being dependent upon the monopolifts. Hence alfo a greater appearance
of eafe among the middle clalfes, and even the poor ; while, under the
ancient fyftem, the overgrown wealth of a few individuals led them to
extravagant and capricious luxury, and the moft ufelefs and improper
wal^e of their revenues. The greater diffuiion of wealth appears from
many circuroftances. Formerly many tickets of the lottery remainedin the
trettfury ; at prefent All are fold, becaufe many can afford to buy. The
theatre of the capital, which only ufed to yield fourthoufand pefo8,ini792
cleared twelve thoufand three hundred atid (ix. In 1 79 1 a theatre was open-
ed 9.x Vera Cf uz, and one has alfo been ere£led in the city of Queretaro.

Eiialla, as already mentioned, computes the whole inhabitants of
New Spain, or in other words, the SpaniHi dominions in North America*
at three millions and a half; hence, fays he, as the imports are between
thirteen and fourteen millioift of pefos, it will be feen that each perfon
does not confums above four peios, though many, of the articles, as
filks, linens, tine woollen cloths, iron and fteel, are of the firft neceifity.
The importations would be more confiderable, if the merchants (ludied
the change of faftiions, and the eeneral talle, which may in part be
learned from the defcription already eiven of the manners and cuiloms;
For example, thepanos de reiozot a Kind of veils, are fo indifpenfible
to the women of New Spain, that they are of the firft confumption.
Even the nuns wear them ; and the molt diftinguifhed ladies, as well as
the pooreft women in the market, ufe the rebozOf as a mantle, as a
cloak, as a (hawl in the ftreet, in the chamber, and in bed ; it is thrown
over the (houlder, over the head, over the face, or around the waift.
They are of filk, or filk and cotton, ab6ut three yards and a half long,
and one broad ; but fome two yards and a half by three quarters and a
half: manv are entirely of cotton, fome mingled with filk, fome
bordered with gold and filver; but the moft valued are bordered with

?ild, niver, and filk, and are prized according to finenefs and pattern,
hofe of Puebla fell from ten to fifty pefos the dozen ; but thofe of
Sultepeque and Tenuscaltepeque coft at leaft five dollars each $ nay»
one may coft fifty dollars, according to the finenefs and Quality of the
web, and elegance of the border. The common clals wear coarfe
rthtotf not worth importation ; but the fineft, fays our author, would
be a valuable article, as labour is far cheaper in Spain. Saddles and
(purs are alfo in great demand, horfes being fo cheap and common ;
ploueh.fliares, aqo other iron articles, and mining ntenfils, iron for
wlKeis, 9cc. will alfo find a fpecdy fale. One author recommends the
eftiMifliment of commercial Ichoola as an efcttJil obje£l. Commerce
would alfo be augmeated, if an abufie whicf^ hat already been remedied
in the capital were bapilhed from the provinces. The workmen gain
Ufh w«g*«i hbpiir beiag tery dear ) but inftead of wearing decent

Hr a cloathing.

dii

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

cloathing', they are indecently iraked, and employihjr a few days in
labour, walte the reft in drunkeiincfs. Yet this defeA chiefly arofe
from the want of conftant occupation, in part proceeding from the
formtr fyftem of regular fleets. But the government retaining a part of
the falary for the purchafe of cloaths, the workmen in the various
royal manuf^dlures and offices were obligetT to adopt gi eater decency,
though formerly accullomcd to appear naked even in the cathedral.

In another part of his work EihiUa gives additional information on
this important futje<3:. The commerce of the viceroyalty may be
regarded under five diilin^ heads; that with China, or rather the
Philippine iflands, that with Peru, the Weft Indies, Spaing and the
interior of the viceroyalty*. •

The firft confifts folely in the fliip, which arrives yearly with five
hundred thoufand pefos of capital, at prime coft, in the Philippines, but
worth a*t leaft double the fum in New Spain. The greater part of the
cargo is in filks, printed cottons, or chintzes, wax, porcelain, and other
fmall articles. If delayed by fturms or accidents, the cargo is doubled
in the following year. This trade had declined, but is now re-efta-
bliflied : and the laft (hip was computed at two millions of dollars, though
the pnnted goods ot Catalonia begin to fupplant thofe of Afia. The
company of the Pliiiippiues at Qikdiz, remitted to Vera Cruz in 1790,
1791, and 1 792, ^oods of thofe iilands to the amount of more thin four
hundred and fifty thoufand pefos, fo as to impede the market of thofe
brought to Acapulco : and this new plan may probably fupplant the
ancient, efpeeially in the comtnandancy of Guatimala, and the northern
coaft, feparated from Acapulco, by a great diftance of miferable roads.
From this account it will appear, that when Eftalla wrote, a free trade
was not eftablifhed between New Spain and the Philippines, though
fome writers have aiferted that fucU a regulation had long before taken
place.

The trade with Peru, alfo conduced at Acapulco, is confiderablj
decayed) now confiding chiefly in chocolate, from Guayaquil, to the
amount of about three hundred thoufand pefos, which are remitted in
money*

Tl»at with the Well Indies is of greater importance ; the principal
article of trade with Havanna was wax, but it has declined ; in return
were fent leather, foap, cotton, but chiefly grain.

The trade with Spain is the bell rej^'ulated. The imports, as already
mentioned, amount to about fourteen millions of dollars, while the
exports are computed at thiee millions and a half; the refidue of metals,
which du not enter the royal treafury, being computed at live miUions;
while a large fum is paid for various offices, the maintenance of tlie
army, and of inanufaAures, a part being of courfe employed in the
purchafe of Spanilh goods, oif which the confumpt is greatly increafed ;
but the one half of the import is thought to be in brandies. The chief
article acquired from ilrangcrs is liuen, of which there is no important
manufa^lure in Spain : in 1793, tiMs branch amounted, in what are called
brrtanast from Britanny, ip France, to one million five hundred and
ninety-five thoufand' five hundred and fifteen pefos ; and other linen
goods to one million feven hundred and feven thoufand eight hundred
and forty pefos ; thus exceeding in value all the other foreign articles,
which in that year amounted to live millions three hundred and (eventy*
tfi^ht tUtiufand feven hundred and forty-two pefos. .-^tua-^

■«/»

.1.

-;^5->i .»

H. -rt« ,* 1 « « 'VWf • 4 '

42'ii;u|vS'*V-5V

The

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

6is

The interior trade has hitherto been very infigniiicant, becaufe there
are neither canaU nor good roads.

Our author adds, that advantages may be expefted from the new
fpirit of cHfcovery, the fhips called Sutil and Mexicana, after having
evinced that there was no paflage between the Pacific atid the Atlantic,
in aipcond voyage, 1793, explored a great part of the N. W. coaft of
America; and another expedition was planned in 1794, to examine the'
coalts of Sonfonate and* Tehuantepec, in the foutbern centre of the
viceroyalty, which neverthelefs remain almoft unknown to Spani(h
iadolence.

Coinage.] The coinage and dollars of New Spain are well kiiowa
through the whole commercial world. . It now amounts, as already
obferved, to twenty-fix millions of pefos, while it ^'^s formerly about :
eighteen millions. That of all the Spanifh dominions of South America,
according to Helms, does not exceed ten millions^ whence the far
fuperior opulence of New Spain is eafily perceivable. ^^i. .. ,.

CHAPTER IV.t?- J«>^; v

.{:.*! NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.

Vt\fi

,ai"'i:

Climate and Sea/ons. —Face of the Country. — So/7 and Agriculture..-^
Rivers. — Lakes . — Mountains. — Forejls. — Botany » ■»— Zoology, — .
Mineralogy . — Mineral Waters . 1— Natural Curiofitiei , s r,r r

p -j'T^HE climate of this interefting country id Angularly

'^ X, diverfified, between the tropical feafons and rains, and
the tenjperature of the fouthern and even middle countries of Europe.
Moifture feems to predominate in the Ifthmu3, but not to fuch a degree-
as in the South American province of Darien, where it may he faid to*
rain for nine months of the year. The rains, however, temper the
extreme heat, which would otherwife be intolerable in this climate.-
Violent ftorms are not unfrequent ; and fometimes- the lightning feems
to rife from the ground *. The maritime dillrid^sof Mexico, are, how*
ever, hot and unhealthy, fo as to occalion much perfpiration even in
Januaryf . "The inland mountains, on the contrary, will fometimes pre--
fent white froft and ice in the dog days. In other inland provinces the-
climate is mild and benign, with fome momentary fuow in winter, but-
no artificial warmth is found necelTary, and animals fleep all the year <
under the open 0cy. There are plentiful rains, generplly after mid<*
day, from April till September; and hail ftorms are not unknown.
Thunder is frequent, and the earthquakes and volcanoes are additional
circumitances of terror :f.

It has already been feen that the climate of the capital, though by
thebeft accounts iu the latitude of 19''^ 25', differs greatly from that of

* D'Autproche. '\ Clavii»ero, i. 1 1. He was I imieli'a nativK of Wra Crnz.

X 'i'hc cliiiiuic of California is rnilii liut for;;n't &nd the ft/il reniarkably fertile. La
Poroufp, ii. 20'1. •Evt.Mi.tiorth(;ri: (,'*liloriiia, as iai }>s Monterey, i» by Itis aciouni iiiij-ularly

SrixiuiSlivp ol Hiai/p, barlcv, and peas. (.;«reri, vi 35. Fr. tr. lays tln-re arp tliree baivelis ii^
. Icxico, in .luiie,,0<flol)cr, and the acettturera, or actiJeiiial one, upon ihv niountair.s^

I he proviitccoi Cinaloa is very «lry, but well ivaiercd by fivert. On (he coott ti fti^reely
laiiw (our or five times in the year, audthe weather is very warm, except in December and
January, when the coltl is estreine. £fialla, xxvii. 137 . llie chief nil^iiii^ station there w

*'""-'no». ib.iuQ, -. - . ■

%"*

Rra

the

^*<ate-<*SN,.

614

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

the parts of AHa and Africa* which are under the fame parallel. Thia
difference feems chiefly to arife from the fuperior height of the ^ronnd,
a new obfervation i^ geography. Humboldt found that the vale of
Mexico is about 6960 feet above the level of the fea, and that even
the inland plains are generally as high as mount Vefuvius, or about
3600 feet. Such ftandards have hitnerto been applied only to moun.
tains ; and one of the laft improvements of the fcience is their applica-
tion to plains and valleys. This fuperior elevation of courfe tempera
the climate with a greater mixture of cold. Yet in the parts to the
north of Guadalaxara, where the high chain of Topia runs north from
the neighbourhood of that city^ for a fpace of a hundred and iifty
leagt|est or about fix hundied Enzliih miles, as far as New Mexico, the
rains are continual the whole day, from the month of June to September)
and in the province of Tabafco* the rains are perpetual for nine months
of the year*. The fouthern coafts are equally afFeAed ; while, as climate
depends more upon elevation and deprefiion, than upon imaginary zones,
the interior of the country prefents furprifing varieties and unexpedled
fingularities f . Nor can it be regarded as unhealthy, as the aborigines
fometimes attain a great age { ana grey hairs, baldnvfs, or wrinkles, are
unknown till a very late period of life. But though they are exempted
from paying tribute after the age of fixty, yet they can rarely count
the years of their exiftence, and they cannot always be traced in the
parim regifler8|. In the year 1 779, there was living in the jurifdidion of
San Juan de los Llanos, an Indian, who had a fon aged between a hundred
and twelve arid a hundred and twenty, a grandfon aged ninety, and what
is equally furprifing, a fon about nine years of age. It was propofed to
bring him to the capital, but as the change of diet and climate might
have been fatal, he was left in his parifli, where unhapily there were no
regifters at the time of his birth. This, with other inftances, may fene
to evince, that the prejudices of fome philofophers ( for philoiophers
have their prejudices) againft the climate and produAions of America,
are unfounded. If there be any where a marked inferiority in evrry
n(ft&f of climate, men, animals, and vegetables, it is in Africa, a moti
ancient part of the ancient world, that it muft be fought.

The climate has generally a ruling influence over the difeafesofa
country. . Some hints have already been given concerning thofe of the
capital. The yellow fever, or what is called the black vomit, has been
jrepeatrdly, during the laft century, one of tlTe moft fatal maladies ; but
the phyficians of the United Statex have certified, that this peftilence ii
confined to fea ports, and never pafTes inland. The Spaniards hsve
obferved, that the ufe of failed provifions it noxious, and renders the
contagion more eafy { but the chief preventative is extreme cteanlinefi
ia the ftreets and quays, and the removal of all ofTenfive accumu*
lations.

Facb or THB covNTRY.] The general appearance of thefe exten.
five regions is at once fingular and greatly oiverfitied. When M.
Thiery had pafTed the ridge of Qrizava, proceeding towards the fouth|
he foun4 that nature alTumed quite a new afpe£t,

Grovetof utw ponpuid rfiasds ofotbtrfluw«N|

* EflaUa, aavi:. 109. lit. In Ntw Bifetv Um ftinv iltafaa begini in June and endi is
SqHcmber I at Chlnuahua Ut« air U yen •IrAfic. ^i*.

t t^tnboMt allowr, p. asa. that (be uf« of tU aoMi. •• ttmftraU, tami, &c. ii
impniper Why then aiwmpt to reftore them,, when tliev iitv^ been diiniflid ftost
geOfi>ph^» • ^ ;£aaUa|a)|¥L9M, f

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

<5i5

the vegetable decoration being of furprifing beauty *. Rare geraniums,
Iieliotropcs, tradeicantias, &c. appeared under the yuccas* a kind of
aloes thirty feet in height, while the moft numerous plant was the ma-
gury» of equal lingularity and utility. The highways are bordered
with hedges of the (enfitive plant. Further on he found fuperb h'tgno-
nias, with yellow flowers, from lixty to one hundred feet in height*
while the fides of the hills were covered with a beautiful cafiusf of the
nature of what we call Indian iigs, forming a curious ornament of the
landfcape. From a trunk of lifteen or fixteen feet in height, and live
or fix in circumference, fpring ilraight branches, which are crowned
by a feries of others, regularly diverging like the branches of a chan>
delicr, fo as fometimes to fill a circumference of forty or fifty feet in
diameter, and «qual height, thus refembling a large chandelier of a fea>
green colour. The fruit, which is wholefome, difclofes, when ripe, a
crimfon pulp ; but the fall of the leaves, refembling beams full of
thorns, is dangerous to the pafTenger. The pitahiahas, a fn>aller fpccieji
of thefe plants, affords a delicious fruit, the common food of the In>
diani. Grand ridges of mountains, numerous volcanoes, fome of them
covered with perpetual fnow, precipices and cataradts worthy of the
pencil of Rofa^ delicious vales, fertile plains, piAurefque lakes and
rivers, romancic cities and villages, an union of the trees and vege^
tables of Europe and America, contribute to diverfify this intereftuig
country.

Soil. — Agriculture.] The foil is often a deep clay, of furprif-
ing fertility, and requiring no manure fave irrigation. Though the po-
pulation be, as we have feen, extremely thin, yet agriculture has of late
years made confiderable progrefs, at leaft in the eyes of Spafiifh authors.
Since greater freedom has been granted to commerce, many of the
rich nionopolifts have employed their funds in the cultivation of land.
The progrefs may partly be judged from the ftate of the tythes, which
in the archbifliupric of Mexico, for ten years, from 1769 to 1779,
amounted to four milliona one hundred and thirty-two thoufand fix
hundred and thirty pefos; while for tlie ten years, from 1779 to 1789
they rofe to feven millions eighty>two thoufand eight hundred an«
feventy-nine pefos ; the difference being two millions nine hundred and
tifty thoufwid two hundred and furty-nine pefos, or more than half of
the former proceeds f . A fimilar difference, though not fo great, ap-
pears in the biihoprics of Puebla, Oaxaca, Guadalaxara, andDurango,
which, with Valladolid, embrace the whole viceroyalty of Mexico, ftriSly
conGdered, Guatimala being regarded as a diftiiiA kingdom. Tlie
tythes ftand thus : , , ,^

Archbifliopric of Mexico • • •
BiOiopric of Puebla -

Qaxaca - ^ . ^

Giiadalaxare . . « ■.

Purango • • > -

7,082,879
3,239,400
863,287
a,579,iod
1.080,313

. t. • 14,844,987

Our author has omitted the valuation of Valladolid, but if we
fuppofe the whole tythes to amount to fixteen millions of pefos in ten
years, we have at the fame time, ^ rough calculation of the value of

•M.TWm. I. ?j. M.

t Kflnlli, iuivU. 9 j but, p, 10, ht fsyi the dlffersBM is 4|M«,60<«

»«'

rt.

■<*imUimH..

6i6

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

>gricu1tuial prof1u<?ls, which, including the kingdom of Guatimala^
inay very probably amount to the yearly fum of twenty millions *.

Near Guadalaxara is the celebrated eftate of the marquis of Alta,
mira, about forty leagues in extent, vvhich fends annually to Mexico be.
tween three and four thoufand beeves. It is alfo very produdtive of
wheat, pimento, &c. with numerous flocks of (heep and fwine; but
markets are wanting. The eftate however might yield forty thoufand
pefos a yearf . Tiie moll fertile part of the central plain extends from
Queretaro to the town of Leon.

The produA of cotton might be greatly increafed, there being a
fuperabundance of land proper for that purpofe. Flax and hemp are
neglected, becaufe other produfts prefent greater. gains, more eafe, and
fecurity. Of indigo there are annually exported one thoufand five
hundred arrohas, and eight thoufand quintals of pimento. The cul.
tivation of fii,;*4r is greatly increafed, and the augmentation of the
price in Europe has rendered the trade conGderable. Tobacco wa$
introduced in 1765, and has become a moft important branch. Vine,
yards form a new ohjeft of great promife. The celebrated cochineal in
ratl'.er an object of horticulture, and requires confiderable attention.
The plant is a peculiar fpecies of caftus, called nopal» and thiC infeft
is peculiar to the plant, being very fmall and enveloped in a white film,
but when cru(hed, the beautiful carmine or crimfon appears. The pro.
pa^ ation of this plaiit, which is about eight feet in height, is performed
b)' branches, but for a long journey the roots alone can be truftedt.
The infect is dritd before it becomes an article of commerce ; and the
annual experts are computed by Eftalla at twenty-three thoufand fix
hundred arrobas. By another computation the quantity of cochineal
exported to Spain is four hundred and fixty thoufand pounds, cufting
in New Spain about twelve (hillings a pound, and yielding at Cadiz
about thirteen or fourteen (hillings^. The people employed in this
culture arc computeil between tWenty-five and thirty thoufand ; and the
value of the trade, to the province of Oaxaca, is reckoned one million
of pefos, but the cultivator does not gain above nine per cent.

The divifion of land is far more unequal than in Spain itfelf, there
being et^ates equal in extent to provinces or fmall kingdoms ; but this
circumflance is not fo detrimental as it would prove in Europe, the
Indians being very flothful, and (hewing little fpirit in cultivation.
They are encouiiiged to form villages by liberal grants of land, but
there are few who avail themfelves of this favour, and they are fund of
fpet'dier gains, as cutting woods, making charcoal, &c. an indelible
effect of their charader and maimer of thinking, for with them to-
day is ail, and to-morrow nothing. Our author however cnndtidei,
that the produce of many articles has been tripled within thefe few
yearH, fuch as indigo, cotton, pimento «f Tabafco, and above all, the
precious cochineal ; while tillage, and the rearing of herdi and fludi,
has been far more univcrfally iuifufed<

* 0<ir author addt, that in the ten l»ft yeart tgrlriitiurt, and the flons of ritiV,
flifefi, ai (I fwine, havr inrrrAfrd nine timi-s; and the totnl iiureafe of agrirtiliure, duriic
the luft •pucli, in of the value of 4g,Qh(°i,A40 pefoa in the fole artii^ld of lyilici. Ho» w
thi* lo b« underftood } It is in fad tlie diflivrciice of the I) the* ly. 10), nnulti|ilied liy cu,
fr'iich give* the advanee of the elUiiuitc'of agrtculiure in general during ten yean, not tiut
•f the fythrj.

t Fftalla, xxvii. 109.

X See liie ciirioiia work o( M. Thiery on the cvltur* «>f the nopal, which acram<
nitie* hi* j>urnej to Oua*'a. | Thki]r« liw.

SPANISH DOMINIONS,

6if

Rivers.] The principal river of Spanifli North America is, fceyond
gll comparifon, that called del Norte, or of the northern ftar. The
courfe of this important river, fo far as its fources can yet be conjeftured,
maybe about looo Br>i(h niles ; for itp whole circuit probably ex-
ceeds that of thtf Danube. I'he nature of the fljores, and the various
appearances and qualities of the waters, have not been illuftrated.
jilcedo only informs us that it divides the province of Coaguila from
that of Texas, which laft is in fatt a part of the ancient Louifiana *.
Between this river and the Miffifllppi, the chief rivers that join the
gulf of Mexico, are the Nueces, the -Mariana, and St. Antonio,
Guadalupe, the Red River of Texas, the Braffos, the Trinity, Nat-
chez and Sabina. But befides the river Platte (Plata of the Spaniards),
« prochgious ftreafn which joins the Miffouri, two other enormous rivers,
the Arkenfa and Red River, crofs Louifiana from W. to E. to join the
i^iClffippi.

By the Spanifli furvey of the gulf of Mexico, republifhed at Paris
l8oi, it appears that the Arcokifas ends in a noble bay, called Cal-
veilon, which is unknown to Alcedo. The river Mexicano, ncai?
which the fettlement of Adayes is commonly placed, does not appear
in this chart, the name bei#g fupplanted by that of Mermentas, while
the Chicowanfliof Arrowfmith is the river De Nieves of the Spaniards.
But there is no fmall uncertainty ilnd change ^n the nomenclature of
thefe rivers, Louifiana having been little explored by the Spaniards, who
regarded it as a frontier defart between their colonies and thofc fettled
by the Ennlifh. The chief rivers however appear to be the Nueces,
the Red Rivfr of Texas (which has been confounded with the
enormous Red River), the Trinity, and the Sabina, at prefent the
reputed boundary between the Spanifli territory and that of the United
Stat(>8.

Major Pike's travels have thrown great light on the geography of the
rivers on the N. E. .

The cotton wood abounds on the river A rkenfa, which, from its
iburce to where it leaves the mountains, a diltance of 170 miles, is
often hounded by perpendicular precipices. It is navigable for not lefs
than 1980 miles from its entrance into the MifQiTippi to its exit from
the mountains.

By the Arkenfa and the Colorado of California, the communication
might be opened between the Atlantic and tin: Grand Ocean, the land
carriage nut exceeding 2C. mileb.

" Tiie fource of the La Platte is fituated in the fame chain of moun-
tains with the Arkenfa (lee Chart), and comes from that grand
refervoir of fnows and fountains which gives birth on its north-eallcrn
fide to the Red River, ll^e Yellow Stoue River of Lewis, and of the
Mifluuri (its great foiith>we(lerii branch), and the La Platte. On its
fuuth.weUerii fide, it produces the Rio Colorado of CaUfurnia, on its

i--'

* The fonrre of the Rio dri Ncrtp in laid down in Antilloii'* map, fMin informal ion
pnxiirH in the year 1779, wlinv the governor of New Mrxiro, Dt Anfa, miile an
vx|M>(liiioii aKaiiiil the favai;«r» called i uiiMni-lies , aivl <iit tlie aJd ol Au|:ii(l uat >tt .IB"
so', when tlie favngf* inUirinnl iiini ih«l ihe rlvrr rol«' fifteen Ira^iie* to the N , W. in the
riilgf railed Grulla*, wliUU belnn^rt to the raitnly rlimii, in thf ne1i;hb(iurhon<l of Santa
F^. The fi«urc<* \s \n a moraf*, wliick iwt only abuundi in fprin^, but ia led by tli«
(onftant iiifPilution of fnow from a>ijarci)t vult'anoea. Aiitillon, p 44.

Ill JHOiO (j«pt. Pllie, ill learv liim; for flu; fourcM ol the Red Uivor, iineiip«?<^edly found
hinifftlf on the Rio dtl Norto. H unboldt iii)s, tli* Rio del Nn tc lifi'^ in Sierru Verdr, on
fbc tMia ul' die kke ui ruu^'auo^t^, iu loutfc Ikmu; cuui^iut«<l at A i ^ Ivasues* '

«««*6aie«„

618

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

•aft the Arkenfa, and on its fouth the Rio del Norte of North Mexico.
I have no hefitation in aflerting I can take a pofition in the mountains
from whence I can vifit the fource of either of thefe rivers in one day."
" The river Saint Amonio takes its fource about one league* to ihe
N. £. of the capital of the province (St. Antonio), and is navigable
for canoes to its fourae, affording excellent tirti, fine fituations for
mills, and water to every part of the town. It is joined by the River
Mariana from the W. (which forms pait of the line between Cogquilla
(Cohahuila) and Texas) and then difchnrgts itfelf into the Rjo
Guaditlupe, about 50 miles from the fea. At the town of St. Antonio
it is about 20 yards wide, and in fome places twelve feet in depth. The
river Guadalupe takes its fource about i5'o miles to the north-weft of
St. Antonio, where we croffed it. It was a beautiful ftrcam of at leaft
60 yards in width. Its waters are tranfparent, and navigable for canoes.
After receiving the waters of St. Antonio and St. Mark, it difcharges
itfelf into the S. W. end of the bay of St. Bernard. At the crofling of
this river there is a range for the horfes of St, Antonio, and a Guard de
Caballo. with an elegant fite for a town."

The river St. Mark rifes about 20 miles to the weft of St. Antonio,
and is navigable for canoes. The Red River of Texas, which muft be
carefully diftinguiflied from the great river fo called, rifes in ^^° N. lat,
and after a courfe of abfiut 600 miles runs into the bay of 'St. Bernard.
Where Pike pafled this ftream, it was at leaft i6j yards wide.

Towards the weft is a large river, the Colorado, which flows into the
Vermillion fca» or gulf of California, alfo called by D'Anville Colo-
radot with the addition tie los Martyres ; while Gila is the Rio Grand
de /os yido/lolot — 'barbarous appellations impofcd by the jefuits, who
had fettiements in California. The courfe of this river may be com-
puted at 6co Dritilh miles. This Rio Colorado, or Red River, is fa
called becaufe the waters become of that colour, owing to the rains
falling upon a foil of red clay. It is a deep and copious ftream,
Capable of confiderable navigation *. The neighbouring lavages, called
Cocomaricopas, are dextrous in fwimming acrofs, holding in the left
hand a piece of wood, which fupports their arms or burthen, and
fleering with the right, while the women, fupported bv a kind of
petticoat of baiket work, upon which they place their children, pafi
m like manner. The courfe of the Colorado is generally from N. £.
to 6. W. fometimes W. It is joined from the E. by a large river
called Gila, which i« however every when.* fordable. Of the Indian
bribes in this quarter fome accounts (hall be given elfewhere. The
country between thefe rivers is faid to be an upland defart, without
water or pafture. On the other fide of the Colorado the country ii
faid, on the contrary, to be very fertile, and the natives rather fond of
cultivation. It is believed that confiderable rivers alfo join the Colorado
from the weft ; but if the Spaniards have explored that part of the
country, they conceal their information.

Puriuinff tnence a fouthern progrefs, the firft important river which
occurs is the Hiaqui, • large and fertile ftream, which inundates the
neighbouring provinces of Sonora and Oftimuri f . Riling in the
cxtenfive province of Tauramara, it leaves or pervades thi grand chain
9f mountains, running about one half of its covrfe towards the N. W.
after which it purfues the remainder towards the S. W. entering tbt
ffulf of CalifomU at thf village of j^uiribis, where there is a rrcirc

• MtJkf ixtU. hu

t Eflslk, i^vii. 131.

^rb9U%

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

6i$

jiafbour, the neareft to California, and whence provliions are generally-
conveyed to that peniiifiila. The banks produce abundant harvefti of
maize, French beans, a kind of peas, and lentiles. Th^ high ridge ofTopia,
already mentioned, alfo gives fource to other confiderable rivers, fome
of them pafTmg into the gulf of Mexico, while others^ join the Pacific*
and which fwell greatly on the melting of the fnows, which fometimes
impede the roads to the depth of two yards. There is alfo a high table
land, as in the centre of Afia ; and the three rivers, Nazas, Papaf.
quiaro, and Ahorcadus, are loii in a large lake, probably the QUt uke
of D'Aiiville, being that of Parras in the map of Alzate, placed by
Alcedo in the province of Tepeguana. Thele inland riven are little
known, but the Nazas, or Nafas, appears to be the chief ftream ; and
Alcedo informs us, that the banks produce excellent grapes, itt
courfe would feem to be about two hundred miles. The PapafquierOf
fo called from a fettlement on its banks, joins the Nafas from the S.
The capital town, Duraugo, alfo (lands on an inland river, which is loii;
in a lake. This river feems to be the Guadiana (another nanie of'
Durango), or the Sauceda of D'Anville, who alone, of all geographers,
has been careful to mark the names of riven and mountains, the molt
iaiportant features of nature.

On returning to the weftern coaft there occur* a very confiderable
river, in fome maps called St. Jago, or the Rio Grande, a name fo
pften repeated as to fignify nothing. Eftalla more corre6tly calls it
the river Bamaja, or Efquitlan, in which he foUows Alcedo ; and
D'Anville had long fince ftyled it the Barania. This river paflea
through the large lake of Cliapala, but its courfe may be traced from «
fmall Take not far from Mexico, whence it purfues a N. W. progrefs of
iibout four hundred and fifty Britifii miles.

Nearly in the fame latitude an important river, the Panuco, which
rifes in tne metallic motintains pf San Luis Potofi, flows into the gulf
of Mexico ; but this river, in the Spanifh charts is ftyled the Tampico,
under which name it is defcribed by Alcedo, who has omitted the
diftrid of Guaftecas, ftill retained in the maps. It would appear that the
Tampico is properly the eiluary of the rivers Motezuma and Panuco.
The river Tula, or Motezuma, is not only important in itfelf, but
it remarkable itk condu£ling the watere of the Mexican lakes ^o the
Atlantic, not the Pacific a* has been imagined. It rifes on the W.
of the Mexican chain of mountains. To the S. of the capital the
land begins to be more confined, and the riven become of courfe more
inconri(&rabIe. Yet the Zacatula approaches in length to the two
latter { and the Yopez, which alfo joms the Pacific, deferves mention.
On the other fide the Alvarado, with the numerous divifionsof its mouth,
ii a river of confitterable importance. Alcedo informs us, that it fprings
from two fountains, one in the mountains of Zongolica, the other 19
thofe of Mifteca, which join near Cuyotepec, and being enlarged by
other riven, it becomes a formidable ftream, and joins the fea at the
bar called after its name. The river Grijalva, fo callecl from the name
of the tirft difcoverer, perva Jes the province of Tabafco. The Belleze
ot Yucatan was well known to the Engliih bayroen orfutten of logwood.
In that part of Honduras called the Mufquito (hore, the river called
Yare ii full of catara£is { it is called by the Spaniards the river
Vankes. The river of St. Juan is remarkable for tne propofed com-
municatioQ between the two feas, while othen pnfer the nver Chagre, in
the province of Panama, South America. This grand fcheme mall be
iaftantly confidercd in dcfcribing the lake of Nicaragua,

iiti

■■«

ill ■ifm

^ie-lUi

^i :

■0.. -^^ - : - 'h'

620

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

Before leaving this fubjeft, regret may be cxpreffed at the dcfictences
of Mexican geography, the beft maps being very imperfeft in the
dehneation of rivers and mountains ; and even the manufcript map by
Hwmboldt, which the author faw at Paris, appeared little worthy of a
geologift in this important refpeft.

Even Humboldt's publication is rather deficient in the account of the
rivers in New Spain, a defedl which I obferved in the original drawing
of his map. The following account * is little fatisfa6tory.

«• Among the fmall number of rivers which exift in the fouthem
part of New Spain, the only ones which may in time become intereftinjj
for internal commerce, are ! i Rio Guafacualco and that of Alvarado,
both to the fouth of Vera Cru'z, and mv^W adapted to facilitate the
communications with the kingdom of Guatimala ; 2. Ri6 de Motezuma,
which brings the waters of the 1' kes and the valley of Tenochtitlan
to Rio de Panuco, and by means of which, forgetting that Mexico is
elevated 2277 yards above the level of the fea, they have planned a
navigation from the capital to the wcftern fliore ; 3. Rio de Zacatula;
4. The great river of Santiago, which grows from the jun£lion of the
rivers Lerma and las Laxas, and which might convey the corn of
Salamaiica, Zelaya, and perhaps of all the intendancy of Guadalaxaia,
to the port of San Bias, o\i the (hores of the Pacific Ocean."

Lakes.] The «:hicflake in Spanifli North Americn, fo far as yet
explored, is that of Nicaragua, which is about 170 Britifti miles in length,
N. W. to S. E and about half that breadth. This grand lake is
fltuatcd in the province of the fame name, towards the fouth of the
iiihmus, and has a great outlet, the river of St. Juan, to the gulf of
Mexico ; while a fmaller llream is by fomc fuppofcd to flow into the
Pacific f . In the hands of an enterprifing people this lake would
fupply the long wiflicd-for paflage from the Atlantic into the Pacific,
and in the moft dircft courfe that could he defired. Nature has already
fuppHed half the means, and it is probable that a complete pulTage
might have been opened, at half the expence wafted in fruitlefb' expe-
ditions to difcover luch a paflage by the north-well or the novth-eaft.
This fpeculatiou mull depend on circumllances ; but if a paflage were
once opened, the force of the ocestn would probably enlarge it ; and a
tribute at this new found would be a confiderable fource of revenue.

In the proviil.e of Yucatan there are many confiderable lakes, well
known to the cutters of logwood ; and ilill afcenditrg towards the north,
that of Mt-xico is the tirft that deferves attention. The conjund lakes
of Tezcuco and Chaico are fouiid to be about thirty Britifli miles in
length, while that of Tezcuco mi ht be about tifteen i\iile8 in breadth ;
but now that the latter is partly drained, fo as to be at the diftaiice of
a league from the city, it is probably about twelve miles in breadth.
This lake is not only celebrated in hillory, as originally containing the
city of Mexico, rifing amid the waters like another Venice, and accef-
fible by caufics on the wt-ll fide, but is remarkable fur thi> Qualities of
the waters, partly freih and partly faline. The Chaico, or trefli water
lake on the lonth, appears to flow by a narrow channel into the (alt
lake of Tezcuco } but Mr. Humboldt'i map of the euviroasof ^lexica

t 'I lii» laft f«'Pnn> doubtful, or perhaps only «ifl» clurinj? th« tnundstloni. Mr.
Eilwards, Hill. W. Ind. i. IB.quotft I)r. Ooiiiw'* Hlftor/ of the exp«liticn Croin Jarinin*
to Fort Jiian, on ihc lake of Nlcaraj;un, 1 7 SO. Thi» *•• I'riiiieU in Janaira, and is very
tkrt) m England. A ropy lias linwever becR procured, but it iKrum liitlt liglit «u £«og»-
I'lij', UMUng foldj et tin; (liTcafiw. •

will, when p

There are thr

miles from th

or rather Tan

is the fountair

In the pro\

of which gavi

anciently to ft

the north of I

or Mechoacan

about twelve ',

miles, pt-rhaps

maps as of fa

Indians dwell i

the cf.pital in t

To the welt

tnnt lake, that

Chapala, on ac

of h/1), a valual

The lake of

Nafas, is little

that afligned in

receives two riv

is the geograpi

the micht of filv

neareft ftaiion.

New Leon.

In the provino
a large lake of 1
Adayes, wvhich i
Adaycs is fo lar,
live leagues in d:
been defcribed.

It muft not b
abound with nu
banks or long rei
Aoi-e of the Bait
tion of cui rents

Mountains.]
America is that
Guadalaxara, ex)
and fifty league/
Britilh miles ; w
thority, fometimd

• ThelakeofTfl/I
hundred nnd fi^ty feeT
one «fwl»icli tl>e<wo'
oi;giiiiution.

f '* i lie chief Itl
• W of n«irly ifio
WfsofthevtUeyoi/
I'lUiuaro in tlie intai
I; the tfro contlnem
"Utijb. 44.

t AlccdoMwec,
I

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

ivill, when publifned, explain thiS' interefting part of topography* j
There are three or four other finall lakes, at the diilance of about thirty
miles from the capital, one of which gives fource to the river Paiiuco,
or rather Ttimpico, which falls into the gulf of Mexico, while another ^
is the fountain of the river Barnnja, as already mentioned.

In the province of Mechoacan there are two conllJerable lakes, one
of which gave name to the province implying i/ie Ji/b:'iy, as it u fed
anciently to fiipply the capital. Thislake, as already mentioned, is on
the north of Palqnaro, the capital of the province, while Valladolid*
or Mechoacan, has only the biHiopric ; aid accordnig to Alcedo, is
about twelve leagues iu circumference, p' tbably abont forty EnglKh
miles, perhaps equalling that of Tezcuco, thouifh rcpi'cfented in our
maps as of far inferior, fi/e. The filh is Hill exqnifite ; and many
Indians dwell in piAnvt fqiie islets, occupied in filliing, or bringing t«
the capital in canoes, fiih, fruits, flowers, and pot herbs.

To the well, in the province of New C iHicia, is a yet more I'mpol*.
ta!it lake, that of C'lapala, according to Alcedo, called alfo the fep. of
Chapala, on account of its extent. It is greatly navigated, and i^ full
ofhfli, a valuable article of trade to the vicinity.

The lake of Parras, or of St. Pedro, which receives the large river
Nafas, is little known ; but it is probably of far greater extent than
that affigned in the maps. To the well is another large lake, which
receives two rivers, one of them pafling by Durango, but fo imperfeft
is the geography, that the name is unknown. The latter lake, in
the midll of filver mines, might be named that of Cuencamij from the
neared ilaiion. There are alfo numerous lakes in the province called
New Leon.

Iu the province of Texas there is, according to the account of Alcedo,
a large lake of frelh water, called that of St. Ann, perhaps that of
Adayes, ivhich is at leall equally unknown in the maps The lake of
Adaycs is fo large as to be celebrated among the favages, being about
live leagues in diameter. The fplendid rock in the middle has already
been defcribed, in fpeaking of the llation of Adayes.

It mail not be omitted^ that the weftern coalh of the gulf of Mexico
abound with numerous long lagoons, divided from the fea by fandy
banks or long reefs, fo as perfectly to refemble the /jnfs on the Prufliau
Ihore of the Baltic : a coincidence probably owing to the fimilur opera«
tion of cui rents f.

Mountains.] The chief chain of mountains in SpaniHi North
America is that of Toj)ia, which, commencing in the neighbourhood of
Guadalaxara, extends north to New Mexico, a diftanco of one hundred
and fifty leagues, or according to our maps, more than feven hundred
Britilh miles ; while the breadth of all the ridges is, by the fame au-
thority, fometimes forty leagues, or one hundred and fixty miles |;. Thid

* The lake of Tftxcuro, or Mexico, according to Mr. IIumMdt, U (Ik thcniflind nine
hundred and fixty feet ahuve tlie Icvt-l of tlie tea; and oidy comains uvo kimis otTifli,
one «)f wlticU die axtUotl belongs lo the clafs oi' Siiene» and Fiot^es, and is o( oxtracrdinr.ry
orgmiuUon.

t " 'live chief lakes of New Spain are, tliat of Mrapa'a in Nov Galliclii, orrupyiiijr
• f pate of Marly l6o fquara leaguci, iKiiig twite as lari^c ;is tlic lake of (.onr.ame j'tli"
lakesof the v«Uey ot Mexico, which (ill a quarter vt' the fiirrnce of tluu vuWvy, thr \Ae ( f
Pautuaro in the iiitandancr of Valladolul-; on" iif ilic nioft piifluitfivo iiuiaiimis 1 knin*
in the tfco contlnetiUi Ui* l«ke of Mextitlaii, and tliat ul' iarraii, iu iN«w Bii'uay."
Humb. 44. • ,

t AJctdoMtwOt . . *

• • • cfiam

-^l.^

02t

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

chafn being computed from Giudalaxara, muft of courfe be towards tlic
weft of the viceroyalty. It is ©f fuch a height as to be comparable
with the Andes of Peru, and abounds with precipices of the mod pro-
found and terrible afpeft. It is almolt univerfally clothed with pines of
extraordinary fi^e and height, and fo thick as to exclude the rays of
the fun. On the fummit the cold is intenfe ; but the temperature of
tlie fides varies according to climate and expofure. It gives birth to
many rivers, fome flowing into the Atlantic, others to the Paciric, and
fubjedl to inundat'ons on the melting of the fiiows, v/hieh are of great
depth. The rains are continual from June to September, and the rivers
become terrible, inundating the country to the diilance of two or three
leagues, while th« muf<)\iitoe8 become intolerable. Befides pines there
are various trees, and the wild fruit fuftains numerous birds of the moll
vanegated and beautiful appearance. Other birds, called carpenters,
make holes in the pines with furprifing art, to conceal their food, and
preferve it from putrefa£kion. There is alfo abundance of what our
author calls y>dvdj, or pea>hens, but the peacock feems a bird peculiar
to Afia ; and he evidently means the turkey, fometimes called by the
fame name in Spaitifh. His royal eagle is probably a bird «if great fize.
Among the quadrupeds he enumerates bears, lions, and tygers: that is,
the American animals which have been fo named. The trees are alfo
peopled with fquirrels of various kinds, while the monkey loves a mott
fouthern climate. This noble chain is prolific in filvcr, yielding about
a mark for each quintal of earth, which has tempted the Spaniards to
explore thofe inacceffible recefles of nature, wliich defy all exajrgetation.
This ridge received its appellation from a favage tribe, which was con.
verted by the Jefuits in 1590 ; but the mines have been moftly aban.
doned, on account of their great diftance from any capital. The ridge
of Topia is alfo called the Sirrre Madre^ or mother chain, and embrace*
the fingular province of Nayarit, which remained "pagan till 1718, as
already mentioned. Towards the north the extent of the Sierra Ma-
dre, or chain of Topia, has not been precifely determined ; but the
Moquis, on the well of Santa Fe, and under the fame parallel, are po*
fitively claiTed among its inhabitants * ; and it probably forms one chaia
with that of Nabajo, and the Sierra Azul, or Blue Ridge of Aizate,
and the Stony Mountains of N. W. America, fending off a braoch
iralled gemes on the weft of New Mexico, while on the eaft of that
province is the inferior ridge of Namhi f . In the viceroyalty the gene-
Val diftance of the Topian chain from the weftern (hore is about one
hundred and forty Britilb miles, but in fome parts not above half that
fpace.

As this grand ridge, by the account of all the Spanifh authors, begins
in the neighbourhood of Guadalaxara, it ia clear that it muft not be
confounded with the grand ridge of the Andes, an error of not a few
theoretical geologifts : nor can the Peruvian chain be properly traced
into North America, efpccially beyond the lake of Nicaragua, where
the ridges rather run £. and W.

In his laborious refeorch after the fources of the Red River, Cap*
tain Pike difcovered a very remarkable mountain, which he thus de-
fcribes i

*' The perpendicular height of the mountain from the level of the

•Eftttllt, MvU. J0».

t VBriou* |nm of this lad clwin are hj Ahate railed the mountains o7 Sumas (ott tbt
Bit '"' NMte)t Orfinot, St. Cbriftovsl, Abo, Chiin<iyon« Tau*, all &». 10 N%

Prsirie

Prairie was 10,51
from the level <
1 8,5^1 feet, fall)
deed it was fo
for hundreds of
by the Spaniards
N. W. In our
fijjht (except wh
Janunry.'*

On the eaft th(

d ate table land, 1

table land feems t

to include the wl

ful river, the Brai

and other countri(

pellation, has bee

informs us that al

and Atlantic, is d

of mountains, rur

the oriental chain

and Texas ; not tt

CO. In the midc

of New Bifcay, j

far as the garrifon

New Mexico; bu

itfelf. He adds tl

ces of Culiacan, (

Pimeria, fo callet

confirming the ide;

hood of Guadalax

in the vicinity of A

if cither of the tw

he the oriental, i

to the E.N.E. of

the eattern wall of

that it pafles ftill f

canoes, whil*? it ms

tioacd in the weit<

• Eflalla, xxvii. isoj
t So obrcuie is the g
feriiirip the moumaini
piir of Mexico, le-piil
lO^'W; .111 J between
'tie mount«in of Or ?bvi
S.VV. of I he town oF X
with pcqictiial fnow, wl
foiitli-cad of the village
«f file -vhole VKero)^lt3
»«*?u«, beii^ almuA ei
out the port of Vera C,
S. (werei! with pines w
•ndUltei. Mr.Arrowfi
miftakcs; but is on an V
*»*»f»y«, tliat tlie r;dff<
"* Wctfoyalty, and cow
K««iinph«al nulea to th

SPANISH DOMINIONS,

62$

Prairie was 10,581 feet ; and admittinjj that the Prairie was 8000 feet
from the level of tlie fea, it would make the elevation of this peak
18,5^1 feet, falling fliort of that of Chimborazo only 1 701 feet. In.
deed it was fo remarkable as to be known to all the lavage nationsi
for himdreds of miles round, and to be fpoken of with admiration
by the Spaniards of New Mexico, and was the bounds of their travels
N. W. In our wandering in the mountains it was never out of our
fijrht (except when in a valley) from the 14th November to the 27th
Jamnry."

On the eaft there is alfo a confiderable chain, fupporting an interme-
d ate table land, on which are various rivers, terminating in lakes. This
tabic land feems to proceed from the neiglibourhood of the capit?!, and
to include the whole ©f New Mexico, though pervaded by a power-
ful river, the Bravo, as not unexampled in the table lands of Hindoftan»
aud other countries. But thiseaftern chain, not having a general ap>
pellation, has been more laxly treated by the Spanifh authors. Eftalla
informs us that all the extenfive territory contained betwe^ the Pacific
and Atlantic, is divided into three parts, formed by two principal chains
of mountains, running from the S. E. to the N. W. *. .Oti the E. of
the oriental chain are the provinces of New Leon, Santander, Coaguilr-i,
and Texas ; not to mentiod more fouthern diltrids on the gulf of Mexi-
co. In the middle divifion, between the chains, are various provinces
of New Bifcay, as Tepeguana, Taraumara, Topia, and Batopilas, as
far as the garrifon of the Pa/o del Norte^ which (lands in the fouth of
New Mexico ; but he might, it is believed, have added that country
itfelf. He adds that, on the wed of tJieTopian chain, are the provin*
ces of Culiacan, Cinaloa, Oftimuri, and Son'ora, with upper and lower
Pimeria, fo called from the different elevation of the teiritory, thus
confirming the idea that the weftern chain terminates in the neighbour-
hood of Guadalaxara. Hence it appears thatlhe oriental ridge begins
in the vicinity of Mexico, further to the fouth than that of Topia ; and
if either of the two chains could be conne6led with the Andes it mull
be the oriental. Eilalla fays that the town of Tezcuco is feven leagues
to the E.N.E. of Mexico, at the foot of the chain, which ferves as
the eaftern wall of the valley of Tenoxtitlan ; and it may be concluded
that it paffes flill further to the fouth, including Orizava and other vol-
canoes, while it may be efteemed a fingularity that no volcanoes are men-
tioned in the wettern chain f. At the diftance of nine or ten leagues

from

* Eflalla, xxvit. It20.

t So obfcure is the geography of New Spain, thai no fmall confufion prevails even con-
cerning the inouiURiiii( in the iipi^^lilwtirhnod of the cnpiial. The iS|)anilli rliart of tl>a
pill uf Mexico, ie-piil>iilhe(l liy tlte rrciivli marine, IHOl, i;ive!t ihc ^ofition of Mexico
lO" aa' ; aiiJ between t!ie capital and Vera Cruz, a liule 10 the tomit of the dir^ line,
the mountain of Or >.ava; whihl fom<fwhat to th>* north is the mountain of I'ernte, on tiie
S.VV. of >he town of Xolapa. This iiiouninin of Pcrote is defended by Eilallu as covered
with pcqwtiial fnow, while on the fide there is a (Ironjr fori reft. Alcedo fays, that to the
foiitli-call of the village of Ferote is the monntuin of the fame name, one of the higlicfl
of tlie <?hole viccro}'aIty, and difcovrrable at fea at the diflatiee nf mure than twenty
lo»s;uli, bein^ almuft equal in height with Ori/ava, while both ferve as Iat\d marks to )K)int
out the port of Vera Cruz He adds, that this rid^e extends more than flx leagues N. to
S. (uvrted wiih pines which fup^ily Vera Cruz witii ]'itch, and full of preripiceN, rivulrtt,
and lakes. Mr. Arroti(rmith's late map, from die want of materials, prcfenu not a few
millalces; but is on an excellent fcale, and in many rcf|ie<^s ii* worthy of its author: Al-
Mdttfays, tliat tlw ridge of TIafcala pervades that province, hein^ one of the higbeft oF
the vici-royalty, and covered with pcqictual fnow. Al /.ate indicates a volcano about fixty
K<«i;raphifal niilea to the weA of Orjiavu, near Toivlipa, where U'Ativille places the vol-

|BUi»

CH srANtSH DOMmiONSi . ,

from Vera Cniz, M. Thicry found hlmfelf in a plain, ' with the m6url»
tains of Alvarado S. Orizava W. and the Sierras Leones N.W. forming
•a natural barrier of one hundred and fifty leagues * ; and the eaftern
ridge feems, by his account, lo form a barrier of the vale of .Mexico;
nay, may perhaps be traced as far as Oaxaca, which he defcribcs as
fituated on the fltirts of a branch of the North-eaftern mountains.

This chain feems to be the fame which is called the grand Sierra of
V Tamalipan by Alcedo, in his defcription of New Leon, and a branch
of which is. called the Eaftern Tamalipa by Alzate. This laft branch
extends frorn the defarts of Jaumabe to the eaftern coaft of the province
t)f Santander, where it is marked on the Spaniih chart of the gulf of
Mexico by the names of various peaks ; while the mountain of Orcafi-
tas, vifible at fea, though at the dillance of one hundred and fixty
miles inland, mull nearly equal Orizava in height,. and appears to belong
to the fame branch of the grand ridge of Tamalipa f .

The mountain called Nevado of Toluca, Humboldt eftimates at 2370
toifcs, or I4.,220 feet, and he adds that no mountain of the luteudancy '
«>f Mexico is equal in height to Mont Blanc.

In the kingdom of Guatimala few names of ridges of mountains
have been given, the volcanoes having attrafted the chief attention*
In the diftrift of Sonfonatc the great chain of Apaneca runs many
leagues eaft and weft X' The names of the mountains in the other pro*
vinces have been left in oblivion, except that of Canatagua, running Ni
and S. and dividing Veragua from Pawama, Noith from South America;
thvit of Urraca, and a lew others in themaps of Lopez ^. If there
were a capital ridge paffing direftly from the Andes, it is impoflible that
it could have efcaped the obferviltion of the Spanifti authors, or not
5iave been known by general appellation ; but by the map of Lac»uz, it
appears that the Andes terminate at Darien, where the land, inttead of
Tunning north, in their conftant direftion, bends W. and even S. W.
through Panama ; and it feems an idle theory to conneft the mountain*
of Guatimala, which run in various dired^ions, wi:h thofe oi South
■ Americq, whofe direAion is fo uniform.

The compofttion of the mountains of New Spain is little known,
but according to M. Humboldt, and the fpecimens which I have feen,
they are moftly of argillaceous fchistus, a fubilance generally prolific
of metals.

Concerning this inteiTfting fiihjeft f'u thcr particulars may now be
added from Humboldt's reci*iit publication |{. " Farther north of the
paralh-l of 19 ', near the celebrated mines of Zimapan and the Dodtor,
)n the Iiitcndancy of Mexico, tht; Cordillera takes the name of SieVra
MaJre : again retiring from the eaftern part of the kingdom, it

cano of Po|)acntpppc, now cxtivsiS^. It is to be IiojRcl ihat tlie maj s of M. Humboldt will
clear up many (lilHouli'K's.

W nlo vye. Oaxaca fays, tliat province is <livi(lc>l fruixi 'llafcala by a ridge called Cocola,
abundatit in pold, filvcr, ciyiliil, viti'iol, and (ircciuus lluucs.

*Tbirry, ii. 49. •*

•f- tilulla, in hisd»'ffri|Mionof Nf w I.con, xxvii. 1!;), fays* that it is divided by miny
hranrhes uf the <hief cIihui, which |.'ainiig li«in (.'i;a;^uiila, iiiilofis ull iha ucflaiid fouib
of Nrvv Le. n. If this dcCc-ri(ition be exaH, it wuuid Irem that the ealleru chain bends in
a ft'wicircuiarforni, including llic eadii it biaiidi of raiuuli|>a.

t kitalla, xxvii. IC8.

$ On die north of the province of ^t. Sitivador, Guatimala, is the ruggtd ridge de lor
Chunia!e<t. I'fValla, yxvii. 177* .

il Hiunb'^lJt, p. 38.
•~.. ftret«B«if

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

62s

ftietches N. W. towards the towns of San Miguel el Grande, and
Guanaxuato. To the north of this laft town, coniidered as the Potofi
of Mexico, the Sierra Madrc aflumes an extraordinary breadth. It
then foon divides into three branches, the eaftermoft of which runt
toward Charcas and the Real de Catorce, and lofes itfelf in the new
kingdom of Leon. The weftern branch occupies a part of the In-
tendancy of Guadalaxara. From Bolanos it links rapidly, and ftretcbes
through Culiacan and Arifpe, in the Intendancy of Sonora, to the ..
banks of the Rio Gila. Under the 30° of latitude, it however again
acquires confiderable elevation in Tarahumara *, near the gulf of
Califc^nia, where it forms the mountains of Pimeria Aha, celebrated,
for confiderable wafhings of gold. The third branch of the Sierra
Madre, which may be confidered as the central chain of the Mexican
Andett occupies the whole fpace of the Intendancy of Zacatccas. It ,
may be followed by Durango and Parral (in New Bifcay) to the
Sierra de lot Mimhrei ( fituated to the W. of the Rio grande del Norte),
From thence it croffes New Mexico, and joins the mountains Grue
(of Cranes i) and Sierra Verde. This mountainous country* fituated
under the 40° of latitude, was explored in i'777 by the fathers
Efcaiante and Font. It gives rife to the Rio Gila, ' whole fources are
near thofe of ][^io del Norte. It is the ridge of this central branch
which divides the rivers between the Pacific Ocean, and the Atlantic,
and the continuation of which Fidler and the intrepid Mackenzie ex*
amined under the co° and $^° of northern latitude."

Of the mountains of New Spain, the Popocatepetl, or mountain 0/
/ffloi; (Puebia), is computed by Humboldt to be 2271 toifes, about
16,600 feet, in height above the fea. The Iztaccihuatl, or the whit0 •
woman, 2455 toifea. The Citlaltepetl {starry mountain) or pike of ;
Orizaba, 2717 toifes, and Nauhcanpatepetl, or mountain of the Jquart ,
ch(Jl, fo i illed from a porphyritic rock on the fummit, now the Coffee •
of Perote, is 2089 toifes.

He fays that there is only one mountain iu North America, froni
Panama to Bering's Strait, which. <«xceeds the volcano of Puebla in
height; namely, that of St. Elias. But as fuch high mountains '
rarely occur near the poles, is there not reafon to doubt the calculations
of the latter I ? The Coffer of Perote ferves as a fignal to navigators -
coming to anchor at Vera Cruz ; ard by Humboldt's meafurement»
is about 400 yards higher than the pike of Teneriffe.

Of fix coluffal mountains on nearly the fame parallel, four only, th« .
peak of Orizaba, the Popocatepetl (or volcano of Puebla), the .
Iztaccihuatl, and the Nevado de Toluca, are perpetually covered with
fnow } while the other two, the Cofre de Perote and the volcano of
Colima, are free from it, for the greater part of the year. To the ,
north and fouth of ihi$ faral/el of great heights beyond this lingular zone, ;
in which is alfo the new volcano of Jorullo, there are no other mountains
which prefent the phenomenon of perpetual fnow.

The mountains are generally compofcd of a porous anr.ygdalite, and
indurated clay, which a mixture of feme cryftals of felspar, has
ranked among the vague porphyries of the Wernerians. In all New
Spain there are only five burning volcanoes, that of Orizaba, the
Popocatepetl, and the mountains 0? Tuftla, JoruUo, and Colinaa*

• Ot Tartnmara.
, t Humhnldt, 38. 038. 973. He allows, p. 9), tliat t}ie mountains of Ntw Spun
We no icltlioa with the Andes, iu refpeft to the dirediiou of the chains.

Sf Husao

;■

I
I

tflf

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

Humboldt is well known to be rather a daftiing adventurer, in almoft
all the fciences, than an adept in any*. In geology his grofs errors
were confuted by Dolomieu ; thofe in chemiftry, equally grofs, by
Vauquelin and Klaproth. His mineralogic vocabulary is Angular, and
not a little confuied. His porous amy^daloidt and porphyry void of
quartZf prefent no ideas. The following are the mod intelligible
articles of information on the conilrudiou of the mountains of New
Spain.

The high plain which forms the centre of the Intendancy of
Zacatecas is chiefly compofed of the rock which Werner calls fyenlte,
being in faft a granite in which hornblende takes the place of mica,
This is furmounted by primitive flate and chlorite (late, which form the
bafe of fome mountains of grauwaci t^nd true pocphyry, with a bafe
of trap.

About Encero (Int. Vera Cruz) the fecondary formations reft on
porphyry ; and near Acazonica there are quarries of a beautiful laminar
gypfum. At Cadereita are beautiful quarries of porphyry, with a bafe
of clay, the thonporphyr of the Germans.

The mountains of^ Oaxaca contraft with thofe of the plain of Mexico,
prefenting only granite and gneils f .

Volcanoes.] The volcanoes, in the fingular territory of New Spainj
inftead of being rare phenomena, as in Europe, are very numerous.
In the maps twenty-one may be counted from that of Soconufco in
Jthe N. to that of Varu in the fouth. They are all on the fotith-weftern
coaft, and after a confiderable interval they ajjain emerge towards
the eailsrn coaft, in the vicinity of Mexico. Concevuing thefe iiu.
merous volcanoes it is to be hoped that M. Humboldt will give us in.
tereiling information. He has already informed us, that only a fmall
number, and thofe little elevated, ejeft lava \ ; but when he ad(Js, that
the Andes extend from the flrait of Magellan to the moil northern p^rts
of America, oppofite to Afia, he evinces little acquaintance with geo-
graphy, a defeat too vifible in the writings of many celebrated gcolo.
gifts ; and thgre are certainly more than rifty active volcanoes in South
America alone. He faw,' at the volcano of Jorullo, or Xorullo, a ha-
faltic cone, which appeared above ground, on the 15th September 1759,
and which is at this day two hundred and forty-nine 'fathoms, or one
thoufand four hundred and ninety-four feet above the furrounding plain
—a fublime and ftriking ohjr-ct ! This volcano of Jorullo is in the pro.
vince of Mechoacan, at the diftance of eight leajjues from Pdfquaro,
the capital, towards the S.W. the volcano of Colima being in the fame
direfticn, but at a greater dijl^aiice. It lirft appeared on Michaelmas
day 17591 with fingplar circumllances §. A delicious and fertile vale,
eight leagues in length N. to S. and three in breadtli, was called Xurulk
by the Indians/ a word in their language fignifying/)/jra//^ ; there was
in it an opulent favm, belonging to Don Jgfepli Pimentel, which proi
duced the beft fugar of the whole viccroyalty, when by the fudden cnipiioii
of a volcano, t!ie whole was not only ruin(;d, but the valley afTiimcd an
infernal afpeft, blackened with perpetual fmoke, covered with deformed
rocks and afhes, the trees confumed, the earth full of deep cracks and
openings, and now forming a hill of confiderable height, crowned with
a volcano. Along its fide paii'es a rivulet, which formerly feiti)i/cd the

• Hit iharai^er of Alzate, p. 125, might he moft jnftl* applied to himfclf — Ohjmti-
teV/WM tjtadte, tC'uM a&ioiie fouvmt imnetueufe, il le lirroit c tup d'oljets u la /oh.
t Hiimb. 360. 378. uoa. 8U7. I Itccuctl dcii Obi'. /■'O9I fans, IHO^t Ho. pait i,
^ Ali?<io, iiflalla. ■' . ^.. '

■ ' , valley,

• Clavigero, i- U, -
fillage of Guacana bur<
till, in I7fi6, the ciirti
2 ^0 miles ; and ia Valli
obliged to fweep tlwr y
volcano of Jorullo prefe
IflijMto the height of
emitted a vaft ijuaiitity
n^ki.— 'n»e volcano of

It ii only occalionally »_
t D'Autewhff, Call
{«nd of the kingdom, ai
*>nie tliinlc it higher th
l«<»tepcc, and f^ys the
w the wildernefs, three
H his whole work very
I ^»||nt of Oriiava hai b

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

6iy

va11ey» but is now fo hot as to burn men or animala who attempt to pafi
it ; au inconvenience, as it is in the direct road to the copper mines in .
this quarter. Six months before this cataftrophe, there were conftantly
heard horrible fubterranean noifes, and earthquakes were felt, which
filled the inhabitants with confternation ; and they would have quitted
the ground, if the landlord had pot employed a jefuit of fome influence
to perfuade them to remain. The eruptions of the volcano of Colima,
though at the diilance of feventy leagues, having ceafed as foon as the
earthquakes begun, it was conceived that the matter had met with fome
obftruclion, and had recoiled to this fpot.

Such is the defcriptioir given by the Spanilh authors of this furprif-
ing event. M. Humboldt (hewed at Paris a drawing of the new vol-,
cano, refembling an elevated terrace, with many fpiracles of fmoke, and
at one end an a^ive volcano **

The volcano of Orizava is regarded as the moft majeftic in the vice«
royalty. D'Auteroche obferves, that the mountain Orizava is faid to
be the higncft in Mexico ; and its fnowv fummit is vidble from the capi«
tal, a diftance of fixty miles. This cmbrated mountain is to the S. £.
of Mexico, not far from the road to Vera Cruz ; it became volcanic in
]j45, and continued for twenty years, fince which time there has beea
no appearance of inflammation. Though the fummit it clothed with
perpetual fnow, the fides are adorned with beautiful forefts of cedars^
pines, and other trees f . The detached mountains, called by the Mexi-
cans Popacatepec and Iztaccihuatl, are alfo to the S.E. of the capital* ^
at about thirty miles diilance, both being volcanic. The crater of the
former is faid to be half a mile wide, and celebrated for ancient erup*
tions. Both are covered with perpetual fnow. There are many other
volcanoes in this fingular province, while other ridges are only remarka*
Me for heiaht, as the mountaiii of Tlafcala, the Tentzon, Toloccam»
and others.'

Forests.*] The forefts of New Spain are extremely numerous, as
may be judged in fome degree from the preceding accounts of the
mountains, which are often clothed with primeval trees i and no parti-
cular account of dillin6l forefts can be expeAed, in a country of which
only fmall portions have been cleared.

Nor ape defarts wanting in Mew ^(fcxico and on the E. " Thefe vaft
plains of the'weftern heBiifphere may become in time equalljr celebrated
as the fandy defarts of Africa, for I faw in my route in yanous places*
trads of many leagues where the wind had thrown up the fand^ in all
the fanciful forms of the ocestn's rolling waves, and on which not 9

* ClavSgero, i. 14, alluding to this event, mcnlionS| that in 17 .^,9 a finall hill near th(»
rilUger of Giiacana bufil with furioiiE volcanic Ihocki, and emitted fire and burning rocka
till, in 1766, the circ/umference was fix miles. The afhea were borne to the diflknce of
1.^0 miles; and ia VallndoUd, or Meclioacau, fixty m\e» dlfi&ncc, the inliahiuottfi «m
obliged to fweep tlteir yards two or three times in a d^.— Humboldt fiiys, p. 357^ thai th«.
volcano of Jorullo prefcnts th«utkndt of little vones, mlled/umaro/M, from which fm<dcs
iflitesto the height of 10 or 15 yards: the chief volcano is rontUntly aAive, and hmr
emitted a vaft i]uatiiLty of droffy and bafaltk lavas, which contain f««^nents of primitiv e
rocki.— 'Rie volcano of Ck>lima is kva in all its grande\ir fioiQ the little village of tut ov^oe.
It is only occaiioiially covered with fnow. lb. S67 :

t D'Attteroch», California, p. S7. Clavigero, i. 13, who adds, that It is th« \iisheft
land of the kingdom, and iu conic form obferved at fea at the difiance of iif^ leaaoea.
We think it ltic;her than the peak of TeoeriiFe. Gage. p. 69, gives an accor^nt of Po«
|«catrpcc, and fuys the volcanoes extend as tu foath as Leon, in Nicaragua. His account
uf the wilderncfs, three leagues N.W. (flKHild be S.W.) fsom Mexico, p. JTq^ {, ntrbus
ud hit whole work very intercfting. It is fiiid that h« oftea copiM Go>|^, 4 hiOY'« ac-
^))a( of Orizava has been already mentioned.

Sf J fycck

< 1

,4>^'fU "^-

.6iS

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

J, fpcck of T^gf tation rxilted. But from thcfc immenfe prairies tnav
arife one great advant.ige to the United States, viz. the rcftriftjon of
our population to foine certain limits, and thereby a continuation of the
union *."

JJoTANY.] One of the numerous dffidcrata of topograph icalhotany

js a fcicntifit" account of the native plants that grow in the Spaiiift
North Amirican ti'riitory wcfl of the MiflifTippi. We know in jTctu-ral

' thit it ii* extn-moly rich in its vegotable protUiilions, but arc ohhfcd to
infer the jjaiticnlHrs from tht* articK-s of commercial export from ths
Mexican harbours, and the fliort lill given by Cavanillc« or the Mexican
plants cultivated in Spain.

The plants that chaiaAerIze the N. American pofreflions of the Spa,
rifli crown aro ca«S> s cochenilifcr, a fpi-cics of the Indian fig, upon
which the coclii loal infeft more particularly delights to feed : convoh
yulus jalapa, the trie jalap, a native of the province of Zalappji, in the
viceroyalty of Mexico ; copaifera officinalis and toluifcr.1 ballamnm, two
tr 'C8 that yield the fragrnjit gum refins, known in commerce by the
names of halfam of Capivi and of Tolu. The fhores of the hays of

■ Honduras and Campechy have been celebrated from theii- very firll dif.
covery for their imqienfe forefts of mahojjany and logwood; and the
neighbourhood of Guatimala is diftinguiflied for its indigo. The gua.
yacum, the fniTafras and tamarind, the cocoa nut palm, the chocuinte

■ nut tree, and a variety of others, which are better known as natives of
the Wefk Indian iHands, enrich and adorn thofe fertile provinces. The
pine apple grows wild in the woods, and the (liallow roclcy foils are iiih'.i.
titcd by the various fpccies of aloe and euphorbia. A few Mfxian

})lant8 have been introduced into European gardens, among which may
le noticed the falvia fulgcns, glowing with its crimfon bloflbms, the
fplendid dahlia, the elegant Itriatcd fifyrinchium, the gigantic hcliaii-
thu?, and the delicate mentielia.

To this unhappily brief account fome particulars may be added from
Thicry, and the recent SpaniOi writers. In the neighbourhood of Vera
Cruz, Thiery found the cocoa tree, a bombax with red flowem, mdias
and plumerias. Further inland he met with a rare fpccies of wild fi^,
and groves of fenfitive plants and ceibas. The fnecies of cafti, or plants
ivfembliug Indian figs, are infniite { and fome nave been mentioned in
delineating the face of the country. Yuccas, Angular ferns, an arum of

f;reat beauty, and fo large that the root weighs ten pounds, the fupcrb
ily, a violet with a bulbous root, thidles equal in fize to artichokes,
bulbous oxalis, junipers, an oak producing monflrous acorns, lycoperiica,
various geranirms, and hel'otropes, that ufeful aloe called the a^ave
Americana, or maguey. In the plain of Tchuacan he found chiefly
cadi, and difTi-rcnt kinds of fenfitive plants, the foil being fomctimri
only an inch thick, upon a bottom of filvery talc, while the mountains
produce various pines, oaks, ftc. Further to the fouth were hignoni;.:,
with yellow flowfrs, between fixty and one hundred feet in height, whi'e
the fut^ar canes attain a prt)digious fize, different forts of crefccntii,
annonas, beautiful folanas, afclepias with yellow flowers, refcmbling the
yeliuw jafmin. At Cues the precious nopal beginb to appear, beii'i;
rubivated in gardens, where are alfo found mirafuls, and a beautifulfagc
with fcarlet flowers. Vanilla grows upon the trees, like our miflrtoe.
f^tyr fyringai and pancratias may alfo be added to the lift f .

EAail)

# fHw'» TtnpU.

t'lba evioM twtanicil reader n'JH find b f h« bft fphuae of the lU^nionarr of AI<-nV,

irftii

I -9

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

629

Eftalla prefers the chi'rimoya to the pine apple ; and obrcrveg, that in
the market of Mexico there are daily loJd more than fixty kinds of fi uit,
cxdufive of the European *. Olives thrive in the archbiftiop'a garden,
a leajiuefrom Mexico ; and the province of Tchuacan aboundsinpomi*-
giaaatcs, but if not grafted, the fize becomes diminutive. Tlic coltf-
bratc'd nopal, the chofen haunt of the cochineal infedt, is dcfcr'bed by
Ellalla and Alcedo ; and the manner of culture is iUuftrated at great
length by Thicry, in whofc work will be found cxaft rej^rorentationp of
the cultivitcd (trid wild cochineal, which appear however to he entirely
(lilFcrent fpccies. Amoiig the produftions of Vera Paz, Eftalla men-
tions the tree which yields liquid ambsfy and others of variouij balfiims,
gum copal, which, according to feme, is the original fubllance of ijiiiie-
ralninber, the malUc tree, and that which yields the gum called dragon's
blood. While the reeds of Florida attain the height of thirty feet, here
they are faid to grow to the incredible height of one hundred feet, and
fo large, that each joint will contain an ai-oba of wat'^r. According to
this author, the root of the maguey has been found the moll powerful
of all fpecilics againft the venereal difeaf«». Of a fingular tree difco-
vcrcd in New Spain, and believed to be the only one of the kind exiflintj'
in the world, a defcription and coloured plate were publifhed at Pans
1805. The flower is in the form of the liuman hand. Tlie followinjf
(lifcription is given by Eltalla : «• Among the rare trees of thi.M part of
America mull be cfpecially placed that called Jr laj manUas. T» grows
iifar the village of San Juan, in the diilrid of Toluca, on the fide of a
hill, is of a regular form, the leaves fomewhat refenibliiig thufe of tlie
holm-oak, and rr lifting the rigour of winter and the nOrtliern bla!l to
which it is expofed. Once in two years it produces a mod fiirgnlar
flower, in the (hape of a hand, and of a flelh colour, whence the name
bjs been derived. Several efforts were made to propagate this unique
Ipecios, which at length have liaj)pily liicccedcd, and yoiing plants are
fcen in the botanical garden of Mexico."

The fame author informs us, that in the town of Atrifco, thirty
JMgiics to the fouth-eaft of Mexico, there \i a celebrated tree called
ahiielmete, meafured in Oduber 1767, in the prefrnce of the archhilhops
of Mexico and Guatimala, and the bifhop of Puebla. More than one
hundred perfons entered the hollow trunk, which was yet far from beiny
tilled, becaufe a part lower than the reft was full of water. Two-thirda
of the tree arc wanting, having been confumed by lightning ; but the
heii^ht from the mot to where it was Itruck is one hundred and fcventy
palmi of Spain f; the outer ciicumfcrence at the ground on.- hundred
and fifty-feven palmi ; the concave at the bottom one hunured and four
teen ; at the height of three yards fixty-fix ; and, at the fame height on
tlieoutfide, one hundred and nine palms ^. This fpecies is common in
Ntw Spain, and generally very large : there is one in the province of
Oaxaca forty yard* in circumferenc**. The prodnftive power:) of the
foilalfo uppear in an olive tree, which muft have been planted fince the
conqucfl, and which is twenty-one yards and three quarters in circunx*
fercncc,

Z lOLOGY.] The loology has been ably illuftrated by Hernandez,

MmlriJ, 17B<J, 4io. an ^Iplmbi'tlcal (JpfLripiion of tlir mod uWnl pl.Miti <pf Xinrrua : nnA
till' liutiiiic (1 'vb' upi of lluiuboltlt «iul hoiiplaiulhii coiiijaiiioii, hIikH brgiii to aj.^idr,

wiil r^^py tjjtt?)' J<iirlencics.

• F.:yb,XKv;. mh.

t Tht ^pKiiitb pAlm Uttlf cscteds uine inrlm. ' ''*^ ^ t EIHllt, xxvU. S6. 931. «

Sfj fty!d

III

fijo

SPANISH DOMINIONS*

•• »*

ftfled the Pliny of New Spain, who flouriflied under Philip n.
towards the dofe of thie fixteenth century ; but bis works remained
in manufcript till an extract was published in the middle of the
fucccding century. The variety of animals is great, though it do
not equal that of the plants and minerals. Among the mod fin.
gular animals is the Mexican or hunchback dog, a kind of por>
cupine; and fome ethers defcribed by fevcral naturalifts. What it
called the tiger feems a fpccies of panther, and funietimes grows to a
great fize, Uiough Bufibn, ever fond of theory, affert that Aqiericaa
animals are generally fmall. In South America it attains the length of
a large ox, as appears from the tcilimony of Dobrizhoffer ; but Clavi.
gero fays that the largeft quadruped is the daeta, anta, or tapir, about
the lize of a middling mule, being amphibious. This animal feems to
be different from the lanta or danta of Africa, defcribed by Leo ; but
the identity of the name tends to corroborate the idea that America was
peopled from Africa. The bifon is found in New Mexico ; and the
tnuik cattle, may perhaps extend as far. In California there are faid to
be wild (beep. The birds of New Spain are particularly numerous and
curious *.

To thefe brief hints fome others may be added from the recent dc
fcriptions. Even thofe native animals which feem to approximate
the moft to the European, are yet different } but the partridges in the
defart of the Carmelites, five leagues from Mexico, were brought from
Spain, as was the rabbit, now general. What is called a lion rather
refembles a cat in figure and manners. Enormous fnakes are ftill faid ts
attack men and animals by the breath, which may fimply affe6t from
fome peculiar gaz, poffefling intoxicating and flupifying power. Tame
fnaket are alfo kept in the fields of maize, where they deftroy rats, mulet,
and infeda. The few fi(h of the lake of Mexico liave already been men.
tioned { but the defeat is fupplied by numbers of a kind of wild geefe,
which frequent (he lake, and form a great article of confumption in the
city. They are often taken, as in China, by Indians, who place cala.
baAiea or their heads, and feize the bird by the feet.

The buflPalo of North America is common, and valuable for its «tW,
ikin, and flefh. In 1 78 « four or five were embarked at Vera Cruz, and
brought to Cadiz. A female calved in Spain, but the climate of Anda.
lufia would have been preferable to that of Aranjurz, where they died,

Horfes, mules, and beeves are common and cheap in New Spain. A
horfe commonly cofts four dolbrs ; but the horfes are far from being welt
trained, and the cavalry is mounted on geldings. Oxen are chiefly ufeJ
for the plough ; but the beef is bad, and left to the poor, while thericli
eat mutton and veal.

Numerous herds of wild horfes abound in the W. part of Louiriaiii,
bay, black, and grey, in fa6\ of all colours. They arc defcendaiitsi uf
the Spanifh horfrs, and are hunted, caught, and fometimes fhot for food
by the favages. Captain Pike alfo obferved numbers of eatris or wild
goats. Wild boars aboimd on the river Mariana and other places, but
of a fmall and poculiar kind.

In the fouthcri* provinces are foMiid nmiadilloa, many varieties of apes
bAutiful birds and inroc^s ; amon>>- tlu> latter there is a fpecics of ant, |
nrhich elaborates a kind of hoticy, fu ahiiiidant ai to be an article of com>

* PtnnuAt, A. Z. i. ■). fmtn Fornumliz Nov. IIif|». x. r, ao. Lwlnian''i Trav«)li of ili' |
Mmti, i. 40U. l)u Fntt/., ii. 'js, i.;,w ^ ^'vhmI •ccauiM of llic iiumtiiiitj; b«r(H ui' Ltui-
iMu. HirnsiMki and FGnuMxicr «jri- Uiv i^uv wuMAfri |wiiba, w tpysswiirum Anioim \
BMilhcca tJi/p0mv.

- . mcrcf

merce. Its fori

is veined witb j

the belly fwells

common ant the

there will be a p

fame tafte with t

food and anaton

M1NERALOQ1

America is beyo

far fmaller extent

America. The

treating of che re

fpots gold is alfo

nora, Alcedo inf

ended in 1771, 1

rious ,parts. Ah

fourteen leagues,

to weigh fix pot

perfor-s foon fettli

province was nam

viceroyalty, ab all

incurfions of the

procuring quickfil

the capital, as the

Till within thef

Spain were thofe

N. W. of Mexico

'^ ^' Luis de Pot

<•■ ' foon afi

it' was tram

GUANAJUATO.

conlideraUly nearei
Critilh miles, while
daiaxara, and abou
brated mining ilati
the former mnas
the univerfe, even
The mines in the
'liver, and copper,
voiding the water
name fur the royal
the N. while other
gold and filver an
and Medalla, but
There are befidea ti

Thi« plain of Clrm'

hi* ilplwliot. It In j,ro

Huinlwldt'i in!i|) uitt

"I'lHT |)art of Soiiota (I

«l»nrciiithepl»;u»ui,(l'

Vfntgu, lit hii hift«
»y«. i. a-iS, tl«t ?o„ur
fofw of which foem to
"••miittin. of Santa 0«i
»or<k, have been volctni
Wf(kriB|lBtheitii«o

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

Cji

tnerce. Its form, and all its habits, are thofe of the common ant, but it
is veined with, grey and black. The iingularity is, that in the fpring
the belly fwrells with honey, to the fize of a cherry ; fo that if from a
common ant the belly be taken, and the other parts joined to a cherry,
there will be a perfea refemblance of the infeft. The honey is of the
fame tafte ^^ith that of the bees. Obfervations are (till wanting on their
food and anatomy. uj vJ

Mineralogy.] The mineralogy of the Spanifh empire in North
America is beyond doubt the mod valuable in the known world, as, in a
far fmaller extent, it produces far fuperior wealth to that of all South.
America. The amount of the produce has been already difcufled, in
ticating of the revenues. Silver forms the chief produ£t ; but in fome
fpots gold is alfo abundant. In his defcription of the province of So-
nora, Alcedo informs us, that during the war with the favages, which
ended in 1771, rich mines of gold and filver were difcovered in va-
rious .parts. Above all, in the plain of Cieneguilla *, of the length of
fourteen leagues, there were found lumps of gold fo large as fometimes
to weigh fix pounds, at the depth of only two feet. Two ihoufand
perfurt foon fettled in the vicinity, and a general commandant of the
province was named, it being regarded as one of the richeft in the whole
viceroyalty, as all the mountains abound with filver and gold. But the
incurfions of the enemies, the want of labourers, and the difficulty of
procuring quickfilver, have concurred with the abundance of mines near
the capital, as the caufes why thofe of Sonora have been neglected.

Till within thefe forty or ilifty years, the richeft filver mines of Newr
Spain were thofe of Zacatecas, about two hundred Britlfh miles to the
N. W. of Mexico ; but the minerals appear to have been chiefly fmelted
It ^ Luis de PotoH, which had alfo rich mines in its neiglibourhood^
Cl'-: ' foon after thofe of Potofi in South America, 1545, whence
th . was transferred.

ouANAjuATo.] But the grand mines at prefent arc at Guanajuato,
coiiGderaUly nearer the capital, being a diHance of only one hundred
Britllh miles, while it is about one hundred and forty to the call of Gua<-
dalaxara, and abnut fifty to the N.W. of the city of Qutretaro. Thiscelo-
brated mining (lation is on the Sierra Madre» or chain of Topia, as were
the former mints of Zacatecas, that chain being perhaps the richeft in
the univerfe, even to its northern extremities in Sonora and Pimeria.
The mines in the vicinity of Guanaju ito produce abundance of gold,
lilver, and copper, and are carried to great depth, fo that the expence of
voiding the waters is not a little conlidorable. The Reiil (a general
name for the royal mining lUlions) of St. Nicholns is three leagues to
the N. while others extend h)ur leagues to the W. The chief mines of
gold and filver are the Pnerta Ovojora, Mora, San Bernabe, Rofario,
and Medalla, but faintly laboured by the indolence of tlie Indiaiui.
There are befides tive mining (latiOns within the mountains, each havin|^

* Thi« plain uf rirne^tlllu does iijI vpix'^r in ilie mips; and Alcudo lus omitted It in
hi< ilphtthct. It is prolmbly in liju >.K. |»aii ui ihi- |)VoviKCP.

IlumUoltU's iii(i|> pluii's It on ilir N. VV. Im. :iii«' io'. IF" fays, p. C06, that in tha
U|i]H-r |»rt of Sonuta lloinctimrs calicil lii^^jlicr rniirivi) lump* of gold arc tuMiid in iibuu-
(Isnrc ill ibe pitlua and ravtni-a.

VcnegM, ilk his hiftorj «l CaKornlfl, Englifti tranflaiion, T-ondon, \7!>9, 2 vols, SvOi
fays, i. Qitt, tlut Fonoru i« lj>>uii'kil on tiir c.Ut by ihv hlicli ni'>uiitiilii!i ut' Tarru Iluiuarra,
fuimr of which foem tu contiA of luilfy iilvtr. Aicurtlin^r to tii;.* fiiui* autiior, p. ilOA, the
tntmnttim of S«nu Clar» (pu the wt-ft u( ^■allta IV » are covered with puiiilrQ, or in «ith*r
vordi, havchcen volctnic. Ha ohl'ervet« ii. -JO ), that ilie Apathus «r« \i^oi\ly cavalry, and
rrrfiiarinf indickclivuadf. _.„.,^

S f .4 . - , church

6$z

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

a church, and chaplahi to adminiiler the facratnents ; there are alfo in
the vales forty-three fmclting houfes, giving bread to numerous troops
of workmen, who coiifume annually one huiulred tlidufand loads of
maize, eighteen thoufand fliee'p, live thoufand beeves, and eighteen thou-
fand loads of meal, the villages being fixtecn in the townftiip of Ira-

?uato.* Specimens of thefe mines, which M. Humbpldt brought to
'aris, were rather rich than beautiful, being fome of the common ap-
. pearances of the various ores.

Having thus briefly defcribed the moft celebrated mines of New
. Spain, it may be added, that all the fouthern and wettern proyirices are
regarded as produ£Uve ofgold and lilver ; and Jn an efpecial manner all
thofe to the weft of the Topian chain, from Guanajuato, at its fonthern
extremity, to Pimeria in the furtheft north : and Reais, or mining fta-
.tions, are fcattered throughout its whole extent within the viceroyahy.f
The great inland province of Taraumara alfo abounds in filver, the chief
Realf or mining Ration, bi ing St. Eulalia. The grand caftern ridge, or
Tamahpa, is by no means fo opulent ; but two or three mining ftations
appear in the province of New Leon, which alfo, by the information of
Alcedo, abound", in filver, or rather in lead, which is the chief ohjeft of
the mines, and which produces, as ufual, fome filver. Towards the
fouth Pannco, or the Guafteca of the maps, has fome mines of jrold,
and one Real of filver, dependant on Zacatecas, whence it is only dilhnt
three leagues. Nof is the new province of Santander deftitute of filver,
according to Alcedo ; but when he fpeaks of the ridge which gives birth
to the rivers, the weftem province of New Leon muft be implied ; a^d
it does not appear that the eailern, or maritime branch of the Tamalipa,
is' metallic.

Coaguilla is, by the confeflion of Alcedo, a defart wafte, and its mi.
ncrul treafures, if any exitt, have not been explored. The few mines of
New Mexico, by the fame authority, are all of tin. California prefents
fome appearances of minerals, but they have been little explored.

In the time of the Mifliflippi fcheme, the feizure of^ the mines of
St. Barbe was held forth as a capital objeft, and they are placed by De-
lifle immediately on the weft of the river Magdalena, or Guadalupe.
Thefe mines 'do not ajppear to have ever exifted ; but, from the remarks
of Eftalla, it would feem that there are ftrong appearances of minerals

• A!ce(la.

f In Pintciia, near the Rral of Ariicona, thcro was Jifcovcrcd in a moijntain fuih ahun-
danre of virgin filver, that fome fu|){>ufed it u IJddcu trcaftre. Ruclt fait of great puritv
was iill'u fuund. Eiialla, xxvi. 33.

Aniillon, turf a, i^»\ Madrid, 1 803, 4 to. inronn us, p.< l , that the ftations for w.iftiing ilf
j^oltl, lai'adnos (k oro, abound in Sonorti, and particularly in the hills near the caiiiiil
ll^lion of Arifj*, ^\■hero ore thofe of liacuuclu', (aii.inpo, and PenueUi, whrre yntm
have been found of ihc weight of fereii maiki. In tli* fuiiie parts is the mine of St, Kofi-
, lia, which yicldid t;oI(l oC 17} carats in Aich ab\iiidnncc, that the value of fome loids
aniounte<l to one tlii.ufand pcfos each. The mine of Ronainiiri is alfo of gold. 'I'herp are
no lefs than tliirty-ft vcn mines of fdver, in the dillriA of Arifiic, one of which yicldi
eighteen marks from the load of mineral, probably a ntule's load. In the fame province,
towards the f;ulf t>i' California, thert arefeverul mines not far diflant from the gwilfoiwif
Altar, and the Peal or royal mining ftation of Rofario. In upper Pimt-ria is the ce'cbrated
mine of Ariiona, eight le;\gtie« frism the vilUgr of Surie, which In 1736 yielded balls of
virgin fdver, lo the wci^'ht of (\ hundred ond fifry arrohas, vt near forty hundred wfiglit.
' On pnxeeding by New Bifcay and New Mcxi> o, are found the mines of C'ufugurii hi, inJ
many odters, not lei's rich in gold ami fdver. In New Hnntondcr there aie the mines uf
Iguana, not far from laredoj and in New Leon thofe of St. Diego. Our uiitlior promJ*
to mention the note<i vale of Cinezuilla, in the province of (.inaloa t but lor thiN n-iiiaiyii;
Ia^\ \w is contenied to quote J)r. Koberifoii \ without any rcl'trtenco tu Alcedo^ w utiiet
auihoiiiics, who pUco this vale In the j'rovince of Sonwa, ' ^^-'-i i-'- • i .

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

<533

in ibe province of Texas, a part of the ancient Louifiana. His words
are as follow*: ** The minerals of New Spain feem to increafe as we
proceed towards the north. It is well known that the greater part 'n
not difcovered, fuch mines having only been wrought as were unveiled
by accident. This will be evident from a letter vvritten from the pro-
vince of Texas by the auditor Don Juan de Olivan Rebollo : • From
the river, which is called de las Nueces f,diftant from the garrifon of
Adayes about three hundred leagues, the whole country, in every direc-
tion, is full of minfrals, with this civcumftance, that every foot of the
furface of the earth, when torriliod in a fmith's forge, y elds particles of
filver ; yet to this day no one attends to it, the foldiers, who might gain
greatly, being occupied with other affairs.' But many mines are left
undifcovered, becaufe the northern parts are almoft uninhabited, and
have never been explored by intelligent men. The farms are of fuch an
extent as to rival petty kingdoms. Many towns and villages might be
built, whofe traffic would lead tq many difcoveries, from the tropic of
Cancer towards the north, while there are only a few villages main-
tained by the miffionaries, and infeiled by the Chichimecos and other
favafres." ^ . .. . , ,

Pike, in his view of New Spain, fays there are rich mines near the
city of Monterey, whence is drawn every month bullion fufficient to
load lOO mules with gold and filver. Humboldt is either very inaccu-
rate, or has been defignedly mifinformed, when he afferts that the mines
of Catorce are the neareft to the United States. His own map indicates
others 240 geographical miles nearer, or more to the N. E. ! Pike fay's,
that in Mapimi there are feven filver mines, and one of gold.

Having thus laentioned the chief mines of gold and filver in New
Spain, and indicated the amnzing opulence of the viceroy'alty in thefe
precious metals, il may be proper, before paffing to the inferior metals*
to confider the produce of tlie coinage. Some hints have already been
given under the article of revenues, but a more complete explanation
was referved for the prefent topic. The beneficial influence of the
freedom granted to commerce, which has increafed the mining ope-
rations, tirom caufes already explained, is very vifible from the com-
parative quantities of money ; for during thirteen years, from 1766
to 1778, there were coined at Mexico two hundred and three millions,
eight hundred and eigi .^y-two thuufand nine hundred and forty-eight
pefos, feven reals ; while, during another thirteen years, from 1779 '**
1791, there were coined two hundred and fifty-two millions forty-two
thoufand four hundred and nineteen pefos, and half a real, the difference
being more than forty-eight millions |. It mud at the fame time be
obfervcd, that gold and filver are now rarely fent to Spain in bars, or
ingots, nor are they confumed in plate. Before the freedom of com-
mrtxe the coinage never exceeded twciity millions of pefos; and in 1792
and 17931 it annually furpafled twenty-four millions^. More flock
being now employed in working -the mines, they are carried to a greater
depth than f.>nnerly, and operatio\is of more difficulty are undertaken ;
the aew works are alfo conducted with more re^ulariiy and intelligence.

• Eftalk, xjivJ. 949. •

f 'I his is the firft great (Iream on the eaft of tlie Rio del Norte. >

i EfUUt, xxvii. 11 , and 3 1 a.

i Bouri^ing, ii. 208, values the produ^a of Peru and Meiiivo at twrnty-two millions of
Jnllars, pui/i/«yur/(», the coinage of Mexirobmnq more than ci;;Iitceii niilti<is<i of puijhnt
^ ''" And p. 364, the iniiiex uf Nov Span yirldol in 1 H03, twunty-feven 'miUium, and

fwlet.

m'ii^ht have produced thirty iiulU«nii« ur near levcn niUiuus llcrling.

rlyM^il

[|i

limj

■illmBi!

T«

•^aoiMBfcwtjas...

654

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

To prevent frauds and irregularities, the royal tribunal of mineii was
erected in 1777, the expences being derived from a tax of eight grains
on each mark of iilver brought by individuals to the mint; the annual
amount being about one hundred and fixty thoufand pefos; from which
are taken the falaries of the tribunal, and of a college of mines for the
inftru£tion of youth, while the remainder is employed for the accom.
modation of the miners; the tribunal having thirty-nine thoufand
college twenty-five, falaries eleven, fo that eighty-three remain to afiift
proprietors. The duties on mining utenfils have been lowered, and able
mhiers brought from Germany, to inculcate, the new principles, and
difplay improved methods and machines. As the procedure by anwdga.
mation has become almoft univerfal, quickdlver is an eifential article •
and many mines in the north haire been abandoned, on account of the
great dimculty and expence in procuring and tranfporting it through
countries deilitute of roads. It is alfo an article of monopoly to the
royal treafury *. That of Almaden, in Spain, is fold in Mexico at
forty-one thoufand two hundred and eleven maravedis each quintal,
but the quantity not being fufHcient, a contra£l has been entered into
between tlie courts of Spain and Aiiftria which lupplies a large quantity
from the mines of Idria. This is fold at lixty-three dollars, and gene-
rally produces about feven hundred thoufand pefos. This monopoly of
the treafury alfo I'erves as a check on the mailers of mines, who are
obliged to produce a correfponding weight of metal ; but the quantities
not being fufficient, fome is brou<jht from the mine of Guancavelica, in
Peru, and iomc even from China. This lall is dearer, but the governorof
Manilla was inllruited to purcliafe all he could procure, from the pro.
duce of fourteen thoufand fix hundred and lixty-tw . Ikins of beavers,
fent to China upon his Majelly'b account ; while that of Idria fells at
fixty-three pefos, the Cliiuclc is lifty-fovcn, but it is of excellent quality.
There are mines of quickiilver in New Spain, but they have not been
fufficiently explored. A new mode of packajje iu hogdieads has been
found preferabh" to that in chells. Salt and gunpowder, of great ufe in
metallurgy, are alfo royal monopolies.

As New Spain is by far the richcll mineral country in the World,
and the Spaniards derive their chief fuppliob from this fuurce, the rea-
fonings of an intelligent traveller, who relided fourteen years in Spain,
tipon this inttieftiug fubji'ft, may defcrve particular attention f.

" It may be faid to the Spaniards, ' Far from making efforts to
draw from your nuiics all that tijcy can prt^ducc, you ought rather to
fhut a part. Confine the infli'.x of your metals i>ito the ancient conti-
nent to the quantity netelTary to rcpiiice theinfciiOble Wiiile, what Inxury
converts into uteniils, an', whai avarice buries either in Afia or Euroi)e.
Follow the example ol the Porluguefe, who rellrict the operations in
their diamond iniiics, in order that the value may not he diminifhed ; and
that of t'iic Dutch, who burn a part of their fpices, that the price may
be maintained. The filvcr of Mexico is your diamondb and your fpiceii ;
if you triple thefum, your miners, whofe labour might be more ulefully
exerted on other objedls, will have more occupation, but you wi.'l not
be more rich. You will only pay a triple price for the produAions of
foreign indullry, which will always be necefTary, in a greater or lift
degree.'

•• To thefe fpecious arguments it is anfwered in Spain, * We do not
perceive any thing terrible in this augmentation of currency. In the

•Efia'ta,Mvii.ail.

f fiouij^uiiigi ii. S'O. c(l. 1803.

<»1

lira

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

<S3S

firft place, tke duties prefent a clear profit to the public treafury ; and
while the other ftates of Europe are occupied with increafing their
revenues, that they may fupport great enterprifes either in peace or
war, by what fatahty (hould it happen that Spain may find caufes of
decHne in what is thought to conftitute the profperity of other ftates V

** We may fay as much of our ipanufa^ures. As long as their ope-
rations (hall keep pace with the exploration of our mines, our currency
will be increafed, both by what we employ to pay foreign induftry,
and with the furpliis of what is furnifhed by Mexico and reru. Nor
do we fee any thing dreadful in the profpe6l. We aik, on the contrary*
what are the moft flourifhing nations. Are they not France and Eng-
land, thofe who have by far the moil abundant currency I Of what
confequence is tl)e fource from whence it fprings ? The combined pro-
duft of our mines and of our induftry, it will ftill be ufeful to Spain in
the hands of great capitalifts, who will embellifh our cities and country;
will furniHi funds for public eftablifhments, and will fupply the ftate m
critical periods with loans :it a lower intereil than formerly. We agree*
neverthelefs, that the hour may come when our profperity, carried to
tbe utmoft, will bring on our decline: this will '...{; i i when our ma-
nufadures (hall become fo a£iive and complete as .■j render foreign in-
duftry ufelefs. If at the fame time the produ^ of our mines tended
always to increafe our currency, without its finding any emanation, cer-
tainly this fituation, which muft however be regarded as a mere hypothefist
would have invincible inconveniences. The excefllve dearnefs of manual
labour in Spain would introduce, in fpite of all oppofition, the pro-
du^iions of foreign manufadlures. The currency would efcape by the
wide channels thus offered ; the national manufanures would languiih ;
the workmen disappear from the want of employment : and Spain would
be again abandoned to depopulation, idlenefs, and poverty. But the
circumftmces which might realize this profpe£fc are very remote ; and
in waiting till a more imminent danger may condemn to ina^ivity
either our manufactures, or our mines, we think that we may con-
titiue to draw from that double fource our future profperity.*'

BefideB i^old and filver, many other metaU are found in the vice-
royalty. Nut far from the capital are mines of tin, of which M. Hum-
boldt brought fpecimens to Paris, moftly chryftalifed, and refembling
thofe of Saxony. This rare metal is alfo found in New Mexico**.
Copper has already been mentioned, in defcribing the rich mines of
Guanajuato ; and mines of the fame metal are worked to the weft of
Pafquaro, the capital of Moclioacan f . Lead is among the produ£is
of New Leon.

Further information on this interefting topic may be derived from the
recent publication of the German baron Humboldt. He fays that the
moft confiderable mines of Peru are thofe of Potofi, (which are ia
La Plata I ) Pafco, and Chota, which are all confiderable heights ;
while thofe of New Spain, Guanajuato, Zacatecas, Tafco, and Real
del Monte are of moderate elevation. The chief mines of the In-
tendancy of Mexico, are the Veta Bifcama dc Real del Monte, near
Pachuca; Zimapau el po<5lor,^and Tehulilotepec, near Tafco. One
mine nMr Sombrerete, difplayed the greateft richnefs ever found in

* rUrigem fayi, i. aST, that the Mrxirani ufed thin pieces of tin, and bits of copper
in the (hape ut' a hammer, u monvy. Tlw olitcf tin minea ar« now near Duimngu. fcft.
»vii. 7-\9.

f The prinripal vop|)er mines I'cem to kc in the neighbourhood of Paft|uaio, and tht
tnuie ot' that city is cluafly derived from them. Eftalla, xxvii. 90.

^ . tny

III

"If

^3«

SPANISH DOMINION^

any vein. The mines of Guanajuato are at prefent more produftive
than thofe of Potofi, or^any other mines ever have been. The mines
^f Calorce, which produce about 8oo,ocol. a year, were only dif-
covered in 1773. He erroneoufly afferts, that the neareil mines to
Louifiana are thofe of Catorce, in the parallel of the town of New
Santaiider, lat. 23° 40', fo that thc'y are about 300 leagues diftant.
The contrary, as already obferved, is clear frohi his own map, and
Pike's Travels *.

Amher and afphalt likewife occur in New Spain : and among the
previous ftones a few diamonds, as is faid, with amethyfts and tur-
quoifes ; but the lift is imperfedl, and perhaps erroneous. The mou:i-
tains alfo produce jafper, marble, qjabafter, magnet, fteatitc, jad, talc.
The ftone called Mzontii, red and porous, wa? ufcd in building, being
perhaps a kind of tufa. The j/s '« is femi-tranfparent, of a glafly fub.
ilance, and generally black, but alfo found white and blue : it was
ufed in mirrors, and alfo for fharp inftruments, being the fame called
pletra del Galinazzo in South America, the obfidian or volcanic glafs
of modern mineralogy f .

In the province of Tecali, to the S.E. of Puebla, is found a confi.
derable quarry, of what Alcedo calls marble, of a green and white
colour, of which altars for churches have been .onftrufted,^ and even
lanterns as clear as glafs. Among the moft fingular foffils may be
mentioned the bones of elephants, mentioned by Ettalla J. On dig-
ging the foundations of the convent of Guadalupe, nean Mexico, thefe
bones were found in different parts, lying upon fand, at the depth of
four yards, above was fand and hard clay. The fame bones were found
in excavations in the hill Tepeyac. A tuflc found at Guadalupe was
three SpaniHi yards and one-third in length, fo that the animal feemed
to be greater than the elephant. But they arc the fame with thofe of
the mammoth of Siberia and North America, which feems to have
been a large fpecies of elephant, adapted to cold climates, but now
extinft §. . ,

• Humb. 43. 2.17. 361. 246. 2R6. QflB. The fine marble of Pnel)Ia Is found within
a few leagues of that eity. One kind, tttat of Tecali, u tninfluccnt, like the alabafter of
Volterra, and the phengitei of the ancients. lb. 24i).

f At the end of D'Auteroche'it voyacre to CaliforHJa, there is » curious letter fruin
Alzate, a Mexican gentleman, to the Royal Academy of Science? at Paris, on the lutural
hiftpry of New Spain. He mentions fome trees of furprifin^; fize, one of them fifty feet
in circumference ; and, perhaps crcduloufly, reports that, in di^rging a mine in the pro-
vince of Roucni, petrified human bodies were found, which yielded a ronfiderable quantity
of fdver. The large teeth and bones ferm to be the fame with thofe of the mammoth ;
and he obfcurely dcferibes bafaliic columns. Tlie liell (lone is proWbly the fonorous marble
of China. The cedar filver ore of Huf\janato (Guanijuatu ?) fccms only dendritic, mingled
with fiKur.

Hernandez, or Fernandez, phyfician to Philip H. of Spain, who wrote about 1S60,
compiled a large colle^ion in manufcript concerning the natnral hlAory of New ^pain.
An abridgement was publifhed by Ximenez, in Spanifh and afterwards tranfkted into
Latin, and publilhcd at Home, 10^1, fulio. 'Ihe minerals are enumerated in the
tenth book, in the imperfedl manner then praAifed, and with a ridiculous reference
to their ufcs ia mndicine. In the Supplemtint, however, the olijefls'are fuch as have noufe
in medicine; and among others he mentions, p. BA, the teaiitlatl, a kind of earth, ri(ing
to the furface of tlie lakes, which wu prcferved as chccie, nnd eaten with maite. The
cakes prepared fnnn it, though the I'mell was that of mud, tiiflcl like cliccfe, and the
colour was yellow or green. Some lake* Uiut yielded a coufiderablc income to the pro-
prteiors.

X i'flalla, xxvii. 250. Humboldt found them on the Andes, at the height of eight or
t(ii tluiufand feet.

§ .See the Mai de Geologieof M» Faujas,p. 2$7, . '^^

^ a Naturai

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

«3T

Natural curiosities.] There are feveral mineral waters of ra-
rious qualities, fuIphureouR, vitriolic, and aluminous ; and fome fprings
of great heat, but none feem particularly diftinguifhed. Befides the
volcanoes, there are many n?.tural cnriofities, one of the moft remark-<
able being the Ponte de Dies, or bridge of God, refembling the natural
bridge in the territory of the United States. It is about one hundred
miles S. E. from Mexico, near the village of Molcaxac, over a deep
river, called the Aquetoyaque, and is conftantly paffed as a high-way ;
but it feems uncertain whether the river have worn the paffage through
a rocky mountain, or the fragment be part of a fallen hill detached by
an earthquake. There are many romantic cataracts, among which muit
be mentioned thofe of the river Barnaja, between the city of Guada-
laxara and the lake of Chapala. The Boating gardens in the lake of
Mexico were artificial cnriofities, the bottom being formed of inter ^^
twifted willows. -i,-.... -«

" About one hundred miles fouth of Chihuahua there is a mountain,
or hill of load ftones. Walker, who had been on the ground and fur-
veyed it, informed me, it appeared to be in folid llrata, as regular as
limeftone ; he had brought home a fqiiare piece of near i^fuot, an4
was preparing fome to be fent to Spain, and likewife forming magnets
to accompany it, in order that their comparative ftrength might be
afcertained with magnets formed in Europe *." >"

A fingular group of rocks arifes not far from Durango, being abotit
It leagues from N. to S. They confift of what Humboldt calls bafaltic
amygdalite, and are faid to be covered with fcorise. Near Durango
alfo appears, .quite d^tach^d upon a plain, an enormous mafs of native
iron and nickel, corrcfponding in compofition with the meteoric
ftones. '

The famous Ahahuete, or cyprefs, in the Intcndancy ot Puebia,
is feventy-three feet in circumference. One or two others alfo rival the
holiab or Adanfonia of Senegal, efteemcd the largefl kind in the world.
Are not both equalled by the famous chefnut tree of Etna ? An
enormous cyprefs three leagues from Oaxaca, is faid to be 36 yards ia
circumference, but fome afiert that there are three trunks conjoined f.
In the province of Vera Paz, which feems to be chiefly calcareous,
as it abounds with fpots where rivers fuddenly fink under ground, there
is, between two high ridges, a cave of great extent, with many de-
tached recedes, abounding with beautiful ftala6titic columns and figures,
which appear alabailer ^. The cold is extreme, and a great noife of
water is heard, which ruihing from various parts, forms, at a little
diftance from the mouth of the cave, a lake of great depth, which
rolls like a fea, and gives birth to a river, which in a (hort fpace
vaiiilhcs under ground §. This province alfo abounds with lofty and
piflurefque catara£ts, which are likewife frequent in many parts of New
Spain, the whole of which' may in fa£l be regarded as one natural curio-
fity. But the indolent fuperdition of the inhabitants leads theqi to

[trefer puerile adls of lazy and pretended devotion, to that real and fiib-^
imc devotion which contemplates the hand of God in the works of hit
preation. < . ^

>|.

•;»*> ■ iw -^ I

• Rke's traveln.

t HumI*. 341 . aftl. 299. t Eftalla, xxvii. 169.

i lliere are maoy fubteri«nean riven in the province oF Yucatan, whfrc, according
tn Edalla, tliere ii no large vifibie ftream, except that of Laga^oa, bitwecu the |iorta of
^\u\ afid CttyO| on the N . of this peninfula.

•'- '" - "* : ■ Oa

«i9

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

On the fea coaft of Florida the (hooting of the ftars, as it is termed
is fometimes fo general throughout the firmament, as to appear like a
grand fire«work of flcy rockets, flying in all direftions, a fptrf^ade fm.
gularly awful and fublime *. The bodied of dead fifli filling the oceaii
with phofjphoric matter, and a vaft weight of water flowing' into the
gulf of Mexico, and probably bringing prodigious numbers of thefe
bodies, may not this appearance arife from the evaporation of the pbof.
phonis under the ftrOng heat of a tropical fun ?

REMOTE AND DISTINCT PROVINCES.

As in fome countries the ilefcription of the appendant iflands ! as
^een neceifarily fuhjoined, fo nn fome it may be proper, for the £ake of
greater clearnefs aud precillouy to give ihort accounts of detached pro*
vinces, which cannot fo well ei iter into the general and compafk de«
lineation of the political and natural ilatc of a country, confidered on
a large and truly geographic fcale. Thus, in a dcfcription of the
Pruffian dominions, the diftrift «of Neufchatel becomes heterogeneous,
and might be detached. Swcdeji is in the fame predicament, with re^
fpe£t to Pomerania. In like uianuer, fince the province of Louifiana
has paffed to the United Stater, tbe Flo~idas have become feparate
provinces ; and California is nearly as detached from New Spain as if it
were an iiland, and has always bee n treated apart by the Spaniih authors.

Of New Mexico fome account has been given in defcribing the re-
markable town of Santa Fc. It is a poorprovi.'.ce, though the land
be fertile, but productive of no t.ictals. The Spanifli maps abound
with imaginary kingdom:<, towns, and villages. The Indians of the
North have maftly retired beyond tjie river Gila, towards the Zaguanas,
and mountains de hs Grullas f.

Florida.] Eafl and Weft Florida were for a confideruble time
fubjeft to Great Britain, and found hy experience to be of little utility
or importance, ^at to the Unite*' States the poffeflion would b?
valuable^ on account of the extent of coaft, and as giving a compa£);
U'liformity to their dominions Thi|» ccfllon might alfo be prudent
on the part of Spain, as diverting the attention of the States from the
) iches of the weft, and as a mean of amit/. Weft Florida, in particular,
is chiefly ufeful as prefenting avenues af commerce. The population
IS very inconfiderable. Mobile and Pen jf& cola together not containing
above 1500 fouls :|:. It is the river Conacuh, not the Echambia, that
runs into the bay of Penfacola. The interior of Eaft Florida is little
known, and only inhabited by a few wandering Creeks or Seminols.
The town of St. Auguftin is found not to ibe fo unhealthy as had been
c onceived ; arid in the hands of an induftrio us people, the driiining of
the inland marflies might improve, beyond all conception, the climate
and appearance of the country which often joins the pernicious mixture
^f heat and humidity. The natural hiftory is not unfamiliar to the
Englifti reader, the country having been fo lonjjr in our poflleflion §.

California.] Of California tedious defcriptions have been pubt
liihed and tranilated into the Englifli language, to which the patient

* Ellicott'i Journal, p. 049.
1 Ellicott, p. 23A an.4 37 4>.

t HuBkb.aoi. 80.

reader may be n
as far as the Ca]

there is a tribe o

northern favages

centre of the pen

The Spanifti poi

confiftinjf of fome

climate feems to b

while water-fpouti

fcrve to divtrfify t

great variety of bi

of foxes and other

jvithpartof.Chini

In California th

a few clouds appea

purple, and green

South Sea by Dr.

The northern pr

by the Spanifli acc«

concerning Nootka

the Englifh to form

by the Spanifh v

account of the Spa

America in 1 792, g

this region is poffefl

ane much di^erfed,

manners differ little

that after death the

In this work may 1

California, from St.

The principal garri

rable foil, for La Pe

hjs account even the

he vifited it at a pa

See Siork's dei4;ripiion oi £«A FIor'dS| with Psrtr»ia's Jo«||t«li

London, 1760,410.
reader

• Jifltlla, XXV i. 18.
t ^'or at. arotuht of i
pr;medle.ien,ofalJ„„,i,

*"1' fixxl, .Irink, andolo,
!'""■' P*»c'«es, all whirh
pi are abundiiif , an<l io„

iH^Suntocmyoiiafur.ra
» Kfil, or ii,i„i„o ftation^

oN.efava«e,hxsoflatei

< al.for.,.a. The ^hde ,ni

•iidfilJceof«uka„a<«ty
♦ niiinb. a^l.
« N.;w (:al1i;,n,M hepl

; ^»<e, which i, ,nc,rc tc

I K'.I*CK.„ de? vluf. he*

Mw!17 ^.'"!**"^' «"'' *'

1 »' 30i».

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

6j9"

reader may be referred. The favage tribes are the Eduesin the fouth,
19 far as the Cape St. Luca», but they call themfelves Munqiiis ; and
there is a tribe of the fame name on the weft of New Mi-xico. The
northern favages are the Lnymones, or Cochimies*. Towards the
centre of the peniiifuJa feme volcanoes are faid to have been difcovered.
The SpaniOi pofieinon is only marked by little ftations of midions,
confifl.inj( of fome hovels, with a poor cottage called a church. The
climate ieems to be divided between exccfllve cold aud torrents of rain,
while water-fpouls and hurricanes ure not unfreqnent, and thick foga
fcrve to divi-rfify thefe advantages. The foil fcems alfo to difplay a
great variety of barrennefs. The chief produ6t is devlved from the fur
of foxes and other animals. Such is a country under the fame latitude
jvith part of Chinai Hindoilan, Perlia, and Eyypt f .

In California the {l<y is condantly ferene, of a deep blue | and if
a few clouds appear at funfet, they prefent the riched tints of violet,
purple, and green %% the latter phenomenon was alfo obferved in the
South Sea by Dr. Forfter.

' The northern province, or what is called New California, extendi,

by the Spanidi accounts, to Cape Mendocino, which Once the difputea

concerning Nootka Sound and the following treaty, which permitted

the EngliOi to form fettlements as far as that promontory, is regarded

by the Spanifh writers as at lead a temporary boundary §. The

account C)f the Spanifh voys^^e of difcovery on the north.welt coaft of

America in 1792, and publiihed at Madrid in i8o2 ||, informs us that

this region is poffeffed by two nations, the Eflenes and Runfienes, who

are much difoerfed, and (hew little reverence for their chiefs. Their

manners differ little from thofe of the other tribes ; but they imagine

that after death they are changed into owls, which is not improbable.

In this work may be found a table of the mifTionary ftations of New

California, from St. Piego in the S. ;is far as St. Francifco in tUe N.

The principal garrifou is that of Monterey, founded 1 769* ini a tole<

rable foil, for La Peroufe obfe'-ved mai/e, barley, and peas^ ; and by

hjs account even the climate of th« peninfula is mild though foggy ; but

he vifited it at a particular feafon, and could only Cee a little of thfr,

• Efltlla, XXV i. 18.

t Forth •cci'mntof tho flatf of CaWfoml.i in 1794, fee Eftulla, xxyi. 94, from three
primed lettent of a Uuniinican miinuiiary. 'VU*- »w(\ coiniiKui plant it the Mezcak, wliirh
nwerithe nmuutains and valleys, and, lik<> tl\f niaji;upytif the fouth, fwpplies the favagcb
kitli food, drink, and rlotliinerv '1 lie ntiifioiiarirs have idanted olives, fi^s, |)omrgranate!),
vines, peaches, all whirh pniduce Hlmmlaiiily. i>ut ilioiigli the land be gemi'ally barren.
{ill are abundant, and lome tif tlio ftiplls are exqiiiliicly beautiful. Tlje Sjxiiiiards have
i)c!;un to carry uu a tur (raile with (hint. At -2 P, near the inifTuin oi All Saiuta, thure is
t Hral, or niinin<; flation, called St. Ann, end the filver ii of great jnirity. The number
oi the favages his of late been prodi^ionfly rrdiiced by the venereal difcafe, and epidemical
diforders, cfpcoially that uf 1 7 SO. Sau Diego is tlie moft louihern mitKon of New
(alifuriiia. The whole iniflTions in 1787 wire Icvcnteeu haoilett, cuntainiiig thne thoufand
UidfificeD f«ul$, and iixty loldiers.

X Hinnb. !)U-

^ New (,al\t'<irni.i begins at 82'' N. lat. Eflalla, xxvi. J. Sau Francifco, in New
Ca'ifornia, hos ftmnded iu I7;<). It Iws been coi. founded with the port of Sir Francis
Drake, whirli is more tu the N.uider -J 8° 10'; and called by tlie Si'Uniards Bodega.
\imo. as7 . Hut tJ)is author mull Ijc ufcd with Oiiiiiiun.

II iUlncion dot y'Mff hechu pur las goletas Sntil y Mcxioana, &c. 4to. with an Atlas.

I'Vora Monterey, and even from th«* Red River to C!ap« Mendocii.o, the country is
rovtnti with inauKafe f«Klls «!' pines, «nd udier Wf), Ellall*, nvi. <32.

% ii. aorf.

f "!- ' - t= coaft,.

■JZ

'"^W ijjii

640.

SPANISH DOMINIONS.

coaft, fo that the teftirmny of the Spanifh writers mull be preferred
Monterey, by cxa£l Spinilh obfervations in 1791, is in N. lat. cQj
35? 45", an<J the longitude weft of Cadiz 11 -j" 47' 30"*. Tlie (hells
on the coaft are beautiful, particularly the aliotis myde. In the back
country there are volcanoes, whofe fires are diftioguifliable by night
By the account of the Spanifli voyage the favages of Nutka, or
Nootka, are anthropophagi, like thofe of New Zealand, and feme
other ifles in the Pacific. The introduftion to this intercfting voyairc
gives a view of Spanifh difcoveries in this quarter fiiice the time of
' Colon ; and obferves, that there is no mention whatever of Fuca, nor
of F«nte,, whofe pretended difcoveries of ftraits and feas have amufed
fo many theorifts, in the naval records, nor in the archives of Spain.
In the voyage of 1775, at lat. 56^ 8', high mountains were obftrved
covered with fnow, while that of St. Jacinto ftands feparate, on a cape'
called Engano (lat. 57° 2', long. W. of Cadiz 129^40'), in the fliape
of a cone, from whicis torrents of water run into the fea, forming a
beautiful profpeAf. They faw mount Elias, covered with brilliant
fnow, contrafted with the furrounding forefts of pines ; and its height
above the fea was eftimated at fix tnoufand five hundred and feven
varas of Caftile, or about fourteen thoufand fix hundred Englffh feet.
The Riiflian fettlemeuts neSir Cook's i-ivcr, and in the ifle of Onalafka
only contained each about fori y or fifty perfons. During the vsyage of
1790 a moft fingular circumftance occurred, for in N. lat. 60° 54', that
is by our maps in Prince William's Sound, a horrid noife being heard,
the boats were fent afhore, and it was difcovered that it proceeded from
a wide plain covered with fnow, trozos or truncheons of which darted
into the air with great force and dreadful noife f . This entirtry new phe-
nomenon may perhaps proceed from fubterranean winds, for any degree
of volcanic heat would melt the fnow ; and it is in itfelf fo incredible,
that it would not have been here repeated, if great judgment and
accuracy had not been difplayed in the whole Spanim publication.
The truth and explication mnft be left to future enquirers.

*. In g«ncr«I the Spaaiards connt the longitude from the iile of Ferro round th«
globe i tbui the Cape of Corrientes is 868O 10'.

t F. xcv. : P. ex.

^■^] i- ,.■'^^^''^f':^:^^• -ftt'. .,* ■j^mt ,'vi* .' .1 .

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•V 'VtKV- ' >ii»

.ir' j|-.r)f'. -i-^ .' •> '■

>' • ' V.

; (■ ..iKi! -rtr , .m

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'^■■, kirjt ,0-ii-y, ■' ■

• ■ ■ .- w#

, ' t*'*-*- ••- •

.** •.

•*:;■■ '*

BRITISH

( 641 )

BRITISH POSSESSIONS
IN NORTH AMERICA,

Canada, — Divifions, — Extent.— ReKgion,— 'Government, — Population,
— Revenues. — Manners and Cufionu. -.— Language. — Cities' ana Towns,
— ManufaQures and CommA-ce.~—CSmate and Seafons.-^Face of the
Country. — Soil and Agriculture. — Rivers. — Lakes. — Mountains. —
Zoology. — Mineralogy. — Natural Curiofities. — Neo^ BRUNsmcK. — -
Nor J Scotia. — Cape Breton, — Newfoundland, — Tas BeR'
mvdas,

THOSE parts of North America which dill belong to Great Bri-
tain arc extenfive, and of contiderable importance, though fo
thinly peopled, and in fuch a difadvantageous climate, that they fink
into infijrniAcance, when compared with the great and flouri(hing colonies
belonging to Spain, or with the territories of the United States. The
inhabitants of the former have been eftimated at feven millions, and
tliofe of the States at live ; while thofe of the Britiih poiTelfions fcarcely
exceed two hundred thoufand fouls, and the far great r pa:'t ai^ French
and natives.

Divisions.] The chief of thefe pofleflions is Canada, noMr divided
into two provinces, called Upper and Lower Canada $ the former be-
ing the weftern divilion, on the north of the great lake or fea of Ca«
nada ; while the lower divifion is on the river St. Lawrence* towards
the eaft, and contains Quebec the capital, and the chief city of our i ->
maintng fettletnents.

On the eaft of Canada, to the fouth of the river St. t a'^rence
is Nova. Scotia; which in 1784 was divided into two prov ices, that
of Nova Scotia in the fouth, and New Brunfwick in the north*

What is called New Britain comprehends the moft northern parts to-
wards Hudfon't Bay, and the coaft of Labrador. The large iiland of
Newfoundland ; that called Cape Breton ; and the neighbouring ifle
St. John ; complete the chief denominations of Britifh territcy. But
in the EngliOi maps, while Greenland is aihgried to Denmark, all the
other moft northern parts of America, on the eaft and on the weft,
as far fouth as the port of Sir Francis Drake, are imprefled with the
colour of Britifh territory. By the right of prior, or at leaft of more
complete and precife difcovery, the weftern coalft might be confidered
as belonging to England, according to the eftablifhed ufage of all Eu-
ropean nations. But no a6lual fettlement having \<r>*ien place, except
the ellablifhment of a few detached fadlorics, to w: ich the natives pro-
fcfs no fubjcdion, this country, together with the regions around Hud-
fun's Bay, with Labrador and Greenland, which are, from the intenfe
Icverity of the climate, declared free by natvue, (hall be clalfed among
the Unconquered Countries. The pr.fett (hort defcription will there-
fore only comprife Canada, and the other Britiih provinces in the fouth^
which form a^ual pofleifions or colonies.

CANADA.

Extent.] This country is computed to extend from the gulf of
H St. Lawrence, and ifle of Anticofti, in the «aft,- to the lake of Win*

nipeg

•"^ll^iiiiiU'ilii .

e^f

BRITISH POSSESSIONS

nipeg in the weft, or from long^. 64® to 97' weft from London, thirty^
"three degrees^ which in that latitude may be about 1 200 g. milca. The
breadth from the hike of £rie» in the fouth, or lat. 43^, may extend
to lat. 49°, or 360 ^. miles ; but the medial breadth is not above too.
The original population confided of fcvcral favage tribes^ whofe names
and manners may be traced in the early French accountSi which may
alfo be confultcd for the progrefTive difcorery, the firft fettlement being
at Quebec in 1608. During a century and a half that the French po^
fefled Canada they made many difcuvcrics towards the weft ; and La*
liontan, in the end of the feventeenth century, has given a tolerable ac>
count of fonie lakes beyond that called Superior, and of the river Mif.
fouri. Quebec being conquered by Wolfe 17591 Canada, was ceded
to Great Britain by the treaty of Paria 1763.

REL1010M.3 The religion is the Roman Catholic, but the Britiih
fettlers follow their ovni modes of worflitp. There are only twelve
clergymen of the church of England, including the biihop of Quebec ;
trhile the Catholic clergy are 126. By an adtpaffcd in 1791 aleeifla.
tive council) and an aitembly, are appointed for each of the provincct
of Upper and Lower CSnada, having power to niake laws with the
confent of tha governor ; but the king muv declare his diflent at any
time within two years after receiving any bill. The Icgiflative council
is to confift of feven members for Upper Canada, and fifteen for the
Lower province, fummoned by the governor under the king's authorityi
and nominated during their lives, except forfeited by an ablcnce of four
.years, oir by paying allegiance to a foreign power. The htrafe of af*
fembly is to confift of fifty members from Lower Canada, and fixteen
from Upper Canada, chofen by the freeholders in the towns aad dif<
triAs. Thefe councils are to atlemble at leaft once every year | and the
houfe of aflembly continues four years, except in cafe of prior diflblu*
tion. Britift) Amierica is fuperintended by an officer ftyled Governor*
General of the four Britifh Provinces in North America, who, beildei
Other powers is Commander hi Chief of all the Britifh troops in the
four provinces, and the governments attaclted to them, and Newfound'
land. Each oi the provinces has a lieutenant-governor, who, is the ab«
fence of the govemor-general, has all the powers requifttc to a chief
magiftrate *.

ropULATioM.] The population of the two Canadas, according to an
actual enumeration ordered by general Haldimand in 178A, amounted to
113.012 French and Englilh, exclufivo of 10,000 loyaliits in the upper
parts. The favages may perhaps amount to 30,000. It is probable
that the population has increafed fince that period. The only revenue
ariAng to Great Britain from this colony fecms to proceed from an advan*
tageous commerce, which is faid to employ about feven thoufand torn
of^fhipping. The eypences of the civil lift are fuppofed to be 25,000).
of which half is paid by Groat Britain, and the other by the proviocec,
from duties on the importation of i'pirits, wine, and a few other articlet.
The milita«7 cftablifhment, with repairs of fortn, &c., is Mated at
too,oool I and the Hke fum for prelents to the fiivages, and falarieitu
officers employed among them for trade, &c. in Upper Canada. But
the advantagies cf the commerce are thought to counterbalance thefe
expences.

Mannehs ANp CDuTOMS.] The manners and cuftoms of the fcttlen
in Car ^g are coniidcrably tinttured with the French saicty and ur.

• Murfc, 114.

binity.

IN NORTH AMERICA.

643

banttf* The French women in Canada can generally read and write,
and are thus fuperior to the men ; . but both arc funli in ignorance and
{upefftitwn, and blindly devoted to their pricfts. They univerfally
ule t!w French langua^, Englifli being reftrided to the few Britilh
fettKTS*

The chief town is Quebec^ built on a lofty point of land on the
northfWeft fide of the great river St. Lawrence ; which in the neigh-
bourhood it fufficientlv deep and fpacious to float more than one hun-
dred (ail of the line. The upper town, on a rock of limeftone, is of
conftderable natural ftrcngth, and well fortified ; but the lower town
toward* the river is open to every attack. A large garrifon is main-
tained ; but five thonfand foldiers would be neceflat^ to man the works.
The inhabitants are fuppofcd to be ten thoufand, about two-thirds being
French ; and the prefence of the governor, courts, and garrifon, con-
fpire to render it gay and lively. The lower town is modly. inhabited
by traders and mariners. The houfes arc commonly of Itonei fmall,
ugly, and inconvenient ; but the new part of the governor's houfe, for
there is no citadel, is upon an improved plan. The monafteries are
almoft exttn6\ ; yet there arc three nunneries. The market is well fup-
nlied ; and the little carts are often drawn by does. The vicinity pre-
ients moil fublime and beautiful fcenery } and the falls of the river Mont*
morenci are particularly celebrated.*

Montreal is a neat town on the eaft fide of a confiderable ifland form-
ed by the river St. Lawrence at its jundion with the river Utawas,
whicn is the boundary between Lower and Upper Canada, about 150
miles above Quebec. This is the utmoft point to which ihips can afcend
firom the fea ; but for large veflels the narigation is tedious and difiicult.
Tiiistown contains about twelve hundred houfes, and probal>Iy fix thou-
fand fouls I with fix clutrches, four of which are Roman Catholic, and
four convents. The chief trade is in furs, which are thence fcnt to
Canada for England. The canoes are chiefly employed on the Utawas,
whence the fur traders proceed acrofs to lake Winnipeg.

" York is the feat of government of Upper Canada, and lies in about
43^ 35'. N. ht. It is fituatcd within an excellent harbour of the fame
nanie, fufficiently large to contain a confiderable fleet *."

At the grand egrds of the river St. Lawrence, on the lake Ontariot
Msr what IS called the Lake of a Thoufand Iflands, Hands the town of
Kiogftoo, moire remarkable from its pofition than any other circum-
IhiNe. The iorta of Niagara nod Detroit belong to the fouthtrn or
Annkan fide of the boundary f . The little town of Trois Rivieres,
or Three Rivers, ftands between Quebec apd Montreal, and is cbiefly
renarkable for the refort of the favages t but though it contain little
nore than 250 houfeiri, it is confidered as the third town in Britilh Ame-
rici|. Sorelle was founded in 17^7 Iqr the American loyalifis» but
I contains only one hundred fcattetsd honfesi it is at the difta&ce of
fifteen lea^rues from Montreal towards Quebec } and the chief bufinefs it
lliip bnildtng.

MAyurACTURXS A2fD coilli<BM?s] The principal eaporta are fura

I asd peltrkt* with fome fifli, potafli, and American ginfen^. The im*

ports are fpirits, wines, tobacco, fngar, fait, and provilions for the

troops. Except fome linen, and coarfe woollen clotha» manufa^urtd

micleiarecUelly imported from England.

• WfU's Traveh.
:ik.U. 11.

t Sm ib. vol. ii. p. 64, Its.
T t f Cl.lMATt

i 1 1 i3{

^«»»ia*usai*.

644

BJIITISH POSSESSIONS

. CLiftfAtE AND SEASONS.] The extremes of heat and cold are amaz-
ing ; the thermometer in JuKr and Auguft rifing to 96, while in winter
the mercury freezes. The Inow begins in November ; and in January
the froil is fo intenfe that it ia impoflible to be out of doors for anf
time witlwut the riik of what is called a froil bite, wliich endangers the
fimb ; and the warm interv^s only increafe the fenfation and the jeo-
pardy. But winter, as at Peterflburg, is the feafon of amufement ; aad
the fledges drawn bv one or two horfes, afford a pleafant and fpeedy
•onveyance. Several (loves are placed in the hall, whence flues pafs to
the apartments ; and there are double window* and doors. On going
abroad the whole body is covered with furs, except the eyes and nofe.
In May the thaw generally comes, fuddenly, the ice on the river bnrllintj
with the noife of cannon ; and its pafTage to the fca is terrific, efpccially
when a pile of ice cralhes agaiiill a rock. Spring is fummcr ; and
vegetation inilantaneous. The month of September is one of the moil
pleafant.

Face of the coitntry.] The face olthc country is generally moun-
tainous and woody ; but there are favannas and plains. ol great beauty,
chiefly towards Upper Canada. In the lower province the foil mollly
coniius of a loofe blackiih earth of ten or twelve inches, incumbent on
cold clay. This thin mould is however very fertile, and manure was fel-
dom or never ufed by the French fettlers > but of late marie has been cm-
ployed, and is found in confiderable quantities on the (horcs of the river
St. Lawrence. A little tobacco is cultivated for private ufe, witb Tiany
culinary vegetables, and confiderable crops of grain, wheat being reckoned
among the exports ; a kind of vine is indigenous, but the grapes are four,
and little larger than currants*. Rafpberries are alfo indigenous; and
there are good curr3t>t» and goofebernes. A great variety of trees is
found in me forefts ; beach, oak, chn, aih, pine, fvcamore, chefnut, wal-
nut, &c. The fugar maple tree alfo abounds, and the fugar is generally
ufed in the country.

The great river St. Lawrence has been already defcMfied in the gene-
ral view of North America. The Utawas is the mod important of all
its tributary dreamt, ifluing from various lakes, towards the centre of
Canada : its waters arc of a bright greenifti colour, while the St. Law-
rence is muddy. Many rivers of fmaller confequence flow into the river
St. Lawrence from the north.- The large lakes have been alfo already
mentioned t there are many others of which the enumeration would be
tedious ; and fome difficulty arifes from the want of any precife boundary
ih the north of Canada. Nor have the mountains been examined by any
^ geologift, who could indicate their ranges or illullrate their ftruaurc.
jl'he chief ridge ieems to be in the northern part of the province, in a
dire^ion S.W. and N.E. giving fource to the many flreams which flow
S.Em while a few pafs to Miidfon'a Bay. But there are many mountaim
between <T^uebeo and the fea, while towards^the Utawas only a few are
fcatteivd, and to the S.W. there are ample plains. The chief ungularitiet
ill xoology are the moofe, the beaver, and fome other animals, tor which
Mr. i^nant's Ardic Zoology may be confulted. The rein-deer appears
in the nerthem part, and the puma and lynx are not unknown. Both
tk« Canadas are much inSeiled vrith rattlefnakcs. The humming bird is
not uncommon at Quebec f . The mineralogy is of little confequence ,
and even iron ftenip to be rare. There are wid to be lead minci wbicli

• Weld, 1. 011. Thk kind of viae proUblj g&n nam* to th« Nflr««|iui Wikoi.
t Kdtm, U* aid.

predict

produce fome /

It appears in the

Cape Breton, bi

The chief natur

rafts. Among \

fide of Upper C

142 feet. A fr

the States is 3.5c

fall a conftant cl(

^ihle difliance s a

The ancient pi
fecretary Sir Wi
afterwards feized
pofleflbrs, and bj
to England by th(
it was divided intc
the former there i
called St. John's ;
the province of M
Mn is navigable f
about two hundred
bafs and fhirgeoa
often fertile, level
common and near rl
the Grand Lake 1
chain of Apalachij
probably expiring
Frederick-town on
St. Ann's i« almo
nearer the bay of
of favages called t
chief jproduds are

Tffis proyince ii

breadth, being infcri

Cdcrable rivers, amo

for flu/Sa-of 100 ton!

Nova Scotia, "extcn(

lidc being from fort

Hay of Chebuao, v

M and water, witli

There is a good harb

inprotedlingtheflfli;

trenched, with forts

woufand inhabitant!,

^ Sn K*|,n, li. 34

IN NORTH AMERICA*

1645

fiToduce Tome filver * ; and it is probable that copper may be found, ai
It appears in the S. W. of lake Superior. Cosd abounds m the ifland of
Cape Breton* but this valuable mineral has not been difcovered in Canadsu
The chief natural curiofities feem to be the grand lakes, rivers, and cata-
racts. Aniong the latter the celebrated falls of Niagara are chiefly on the
fide of Upper Canada, the river being there 600 yards wide, and the fall
142 feet. A fmafi iiland lies between the falls; and that oa the fide of
the States is 350 y«: c.i wide, while the heigiit is 163 feet : from the great
fall a conftant cloc"^ aicends, which may iometimes be feen at an incre*
^ible difta^ce ; and the whole ieene is truly tremendous.

NEW BRUNSWICK,

The ancient province of Nova Scotia was granted by James L to his
fecretary Sir William Alexander, afteiwards earl of Stirling. It was
afterwards feized by the French, who feem indeed to have been the firft
poiTeflbrs, and by whom it was called Acadief ; but it was furrendered
to England by the treaty of Utrecht 1713. In 1784, as already ftated*
it was divided into two provinces, New Brunfwick and Nova Scotia. la
the former there are two conliderable bays, and a river of fome length*
called St. John's ; while that of iSt. Croix divides New Brunfwick from
the province of Main, belonging to the United Statetu The river of St^
John is navigable for veflels of tifty tons about fixty ^liles ; and for boata
about two hundred ; the tide flowing about eighty. The filh are falthon^
bafs and fturgeon ; and the banks enriched by the annual freihets, are
often fertile, level and covered with large trees. This river affords a
common and near route to Quebec. There are many lakes, among which
the Grand Lake is 30 miles long, and about nine broad. The great
chain of Apalachian mountains pafTes on the N* W. of this province,
probably expiring at the gulf of St. I^awrencC;. The capital is
Frederick-town on the river ibt. Jolin, about ninety miles from itseiluary^
St. Ann's it almoft oppofite ; and there are fome other fettlements
nearer the, bay of Fundi, with a fort called Howe. There is a tribe
of ravages called the Marechites, ellim^ted at 140 fighting men. Th<;
ichief produ^s are timber a«d fifh.

NT \]

i ■

^OVA 6C0TIA,

This proyince is about 300 miles in length, by about 80 uf medial
breadth, being inferior in fize to New Brunfwick. There are fevvral cou»
udcrable rivers, among which that uf Annapolis is navigable fifteen miles,
/or fliipi^of 100 tons. The bay of F^ndi, between New Brunfwick and
Nova Scotia, extends fifty leagues inland ; the ebb and flowing of the
tide being from forty-fiye to fixty feet, The capital is Halifax, on the
bay of Cnebu6to, we|l fituatcd tor the fifhery, with communications, by
land and water, with other parts of this province and New Brunfwick :|:,
There is a good harbour, where a fmall fquadrun of ihips of war, employed
in prote£ling the fifhinff veffels, h laid up in th^ winter. The town is en*
trenched, with forts of timber, and is faid to contain fifteen or fixteeu
Uioufand inhabitants^ a fupcriqr population to that of Quebec. Shelburn,

f See Kahn, i\. 049.

f Srt Uhutiuii, ii. 94,

Tt3

I Mgjfr, lao.

Wward

94^i

I**-' vu

'' '♦^'iiiatCJ^^*..-

646

BRITISH POSSESSIONS

towards the S. W., once contained fix hundred families { Guifl>ury about
250. The harbour of Annapolis is excellent ; but it is an inconfidcrable
hamlet. During a great part of the year the air is foggy and unhealthy ;
and for four- or five months intenfely cold. There are many forefts ; and
the foil is generally thin and barren, though fertile on the banks of the
rivers, in grafs, hemp, and flax ; but fupplies of grain arefent from £ncr.
land. The Micmacs, an Indian tribe of about 300 fighting men, dwell
to the ead of Halifax. Britain fends to thefe provinces linen and woollen
cloths, and other articles to the an!ount of about 30,600!. ; and receives
timber and fifh worth about 50,0001. The chief fifhery is that of cod on
the cape Sable-coall. Near cape Canco there are remarkable cliffs of
white gypfum. About twenty-tliree leagues from that cape is the Ifle de
Sable, or of Sand, confitling wholly of that fubftance, mixed with white
tranfparent Hones, the hills being milk-white cones, and fome 146 feet
above the fea. This flrange ifle has ponds of frelli water } with junipers,
blueberries, and cranberries, and fome grafs and vetches, which ferve to
fupport a few horfes, cows, and hogs. The bay of Fundi prefents an in-
finite variety of pidlurefque and fublime fcenery.

ISLAND OF CAPE BRETON.

Tins ifland is attached to the province of Lower Canada, though di.
vided from Nova Scotia only by a flniit of one mile in breadth. It is
about a hundred miles in length ; and according to the French autbori
was difcovered at a very early period, about A. D. i^oo, by the Normant
and Breton*) who navigated thefe feas ; and being fuppofed a part of the
continent was called Cape Breton. They did not however take polTelBw
of it till 1 7 13, when they ereded fort Dauphin ; the harbour being found
difficult, Louifburg was built in 1720, the fettlers being chiefly from
Europe, as the Acadians, or French of Nova Scotia, did not choofe to
leave that coimtry. In j 745 Cape Breton was taken by fome troops from
New England : and has fince remained fubieA to tlie Britifh crown. The
climate u cold and foggy, not oulv from the proximity of Newfoundland,
but from numerous lakes and forefts. The foil is mere mols, and has been
found unfit for agriculture. The chief towns are Sidney and Louifburg ;
the whole inhabitants of the ifle do not exceed one thoufand. The hir
trade is inconfidcrable, but the fidiery vcrv important, this ifland being
efteemed the chief feat ; and the value of tliio trade^ while in the French
pofTeifion, was computed at a million flerling. There is a very cxtcn.
five bed of coal in this ifland, in a horizontal direction, not more than
fix or eight feet below the furface ; but it has been chiefly ufed ai
ballaft t in one of the pits a lire was kindled by accident, and rcmaini
un^ting^uiflied.

The ifland of St. John is at no great diflance to the weft of Cape
Breton, being about fixtv miles in length by thirty in breadth, and is at*
tached to the province of Nova Scotia, "nie French inhabitants, about
four thoufand, furrcndered, with Cape Breton, in 1745. Itisfaidto
be fertile, with feveral ftreams. A lieutenant-governor refides at Char*
lotte town i and the inhabitants of the ifland are computed lit five thou*
fand*

NEWFOUNDLAND.

This ifland was difcovered by Stbaftian Cabot in 1497, who alfo
iQundcd the prior claim of England to the North American fhores as far

fouth

IN NORTH AMERICA.

6|7

(buth as Florida. This 4iJ(covery» like that of Cohimbus and others
was unintentionalf tbe 4efign being merely to penetrate to the £aft In-
dies. The jStUfA fif Newfoundland is about 320 miles in length and
breadl;!^ 10Btt fliape approaching to a triangle. It feems to be rather hilly
jttno tnountainousy with woods of birch, fmallpine, and fir, yet on the.
fouth'Weft fide there are loftv head lands. The countiy has fcarcely been
penetrated above thirty miles ; but there are numerous ponds and mo>
rafles, with fome dry barrens. The great fifhery on the banks of New.
foundland begins about the loth of May, and continues till the end of
September. The cod is either dried for the Mediterranean, or barrelled
uj> in a pickle of fait, for the Englifh market. Thefe banks and the
iflaod are environed with conllant fog, or fnow and fleet ; the former
fuppofcd by fome to be occafioned by the fuperior warmth of the gulf
flream from the Weft Indies. T!ie filhery is computed to yield about
300,opol. a year, from the cod fold in the Catholic countries. The
idaad of Newfoundland, after many difputes with the French, was ceded
to England I7I3« the Freiich having permiflion to dry their nets on the
northern fliores ; and in 1"% it was ilipulated that they migkt fifli
in the gulf of St. Lawreuce ; aod the fmall illes of St. Pierre and Miquc*
loB were ceded to thenu The French, by the treaty 1783, were to en«
joy their fiHieries on the northern and weftem coails, the inliabitants gf
the United States having the fame privileges as before their independence;
aod the preliminaries of OAober 1801 confirm the privileges granted to
tbe French.

The chief towns are St. John in the S.E., with Placentiain the foutht
and Bonavifta in the eaft ; but not above a thouland families remain
during the winter. In the fpring a fmall fquadron is fent to prote£^ the
fiflieries and fettlements, the admiral b«»ng alfo governor of the ifland, its
fole confequence depending on the fifhery ; and there are two lieutenant-
governors, one at St. John's, another at Placentia *.

Thefe dreary fliores are ftrongly contrafted by the Bermudas or Som«
met Iflands, lying almoft at an equal diftance between Nova 3cotia asd
tlie Weft Indies; but as they are nearer to the coaft of CarpUna than to
any otiier land, it ieeias more proper to arrange them here than under
any other divifio^.

THE BERMUDAS, OR SOMMEU ISLANDS.

TuKY are four in number^ and were difcovered by the Sp«iivdt vndcr
John BermudaSi "
ware again

which event ^ms to have induced JShakefpcar
V xtii with ftorms. Aaothcr poet. Waller, who refided there fome time,
on his being condemned for a plot againft the paiiiament in 1 6430 de-
fcribes them in very different colouns, as enjoying a perpetual fpring. In
1725; the benevolent and eccentric bifliop Berkeley propofed to ereA t
college in thofe iflands for theconverfton of the favage Americans { Of
thel'e iittk; illaadi the chief is that called St, George, with a capital town
of thi> fame nime, containinff about five hundred Iioufes, built of a fuft
free-Monc, the inhabitants being about three thoufand, and thofe of alt
the ifles perhaps abovt nine thoufiusd. There is a governor, council, and

* 11m Ulc of Antleofti, u tht inoath of &. lannnct, h lull of racin, tiA Iim ao hvh
hftar, but is wiwA «idi wvodj sad txcrllent cod ii foufid on dis flimt«

Ttf generil

111

; ■■J ■

i«L. ' 'j<u ^

''4'>miittiis:

648 BRITISH POSSESSIONS IN NORTH AMERICA.

general alTembly ; the religion being that of the church of England.
The people are chiefly occupied in building light (hips of ^eir cedars, in
whicn they trade to North America and the Weft Indies. \t would ap.
pear that thefe remote ifles were uninhabited when fettled by the Engli/h.
Mr. Morfe fays that the blacks are here twice as numerous as the
whites ; and tKat a great part of their trade confifts in carrying fait to
Ainerica *.

NATIVE TRIBES

AND

UNCONQUERED COUNTRIES,

THE arrangement of this divifion (hall briefly purfue the order of
thfe difcoveries from the eaft towards the well. On this plan Green.
land fliall be followed by Labrador, and the territory belonging to the
Hudfon's Bay Company. Some account may then be giver, of the cen-
tral parts and tribes ; which (hall be followed by the difcoveries of the
weftern coaft and iflands by the Ruflians, Cook, Vancouver, La Peroufe,
and other navigators, and by the late enterprising traveller Mackenzie.

GREENLAND.

The difcovery of this extenHve region, which, whether continental or
infular^ mull ever continue to be regarded as belonging to North Amc-
rica, hM been already mentioi>ed as naving been cffpaeJ by the people of
Iceland in the tenth century ; the diftance, according to the beft maps,
beine about eight degrees of longitude in lat. 66°, or nearly ioo g. miles;
but u-me maps reduce it to five degrees, or not more than 130 g. miles,
The intercourfe between this colony and Denmark was maintained till the
beginning of the fifteenth century, the laft of feventeen bifho^^s being
named in 1406 : and in that century, by tlie gradual increafe of the ardtic
ice, the colony appears to have been completely imprifoned by the frozen
ocean ; while on the well! a range of impaihible mountains and plains, co-
vered with perpetual ice, precluded all acci-fs. The ancient fettlement
contained feveral churches and monafteries, the names and pofitions of
ivhich may be traced in »hc map by Torfaeus ; from which it would feein
that the colony extended over about 200 miles in the S.E. extremity.
0n the weft fome ruins of churches have alfo been difcovered. In more
recent linoes the weftern coaft was chieily explored by Davis, and other
^nglifh navigators } but there was no attempt to fettle any colony. A

Ei«>u8 Norwegian clergyman, named Egede, having probably read the
ook ol Tortaeui pubUtned in 17 151 was deeply imprefted by the mclan-

* From the chtit bj Lemprierr, 1797> it tppmn thtt the t-trgeft iiland called Dcr-
rr.uda rcfcmbleta hook, the great (bund fronting the north. The length i* about a J g.
mik-f, the brea'lth rcljnni two. I'he other i{I<-t are St. Georgc'i, St. David*!), and

ihcy an aUo hrqueoted by whalc-

choly

bomerfei) with feveral iflcta, and numuoua locka.
filhcn.

UNCONQUERED COUNTRIES.

649

choly fituation of this colony, if it (hould be found to exift ; and in 172 X
proceeded to theweftern (hore, where he continued till 1735* preaching
the gofpel to the natives, his benevolent example having been fince fou
lowed by feveral miffionaries. The fe^ called Moravians began their fet«
tlements about thirty years after. It is faid that the country is inhabited
as far as 76° ; but tpe Danifh and Moravian fettlements are chiefly in the
S.W., though at one time there appear to have been a faftory as fas
north as 73°. The natives have no conception of what we call Baffin's
Bay : but fay that in the north of their country there is a narrow ftrait
which divides it from the continent of America *.

This dreary country may be faid to confift of rocks, ice and fiiow ; but
in the fouthem parts there are fome fmall junipers, willows, and birch.
There are rein«deer, and fume dogs refembling wolves, with ar£lic foxes,
and polar bears. Hares are common ; and the walrus, and five kinds of
feals frequent the (hores. The birds, particularly fea and water fowl,
are tolerably numerous ; as are the filh ; and the infedls exceed ninety
fpecies.

The (hort fummtL' is very warm, but foggy ; and the northern lights
diverfify the gloom of winter. What is called the froft fmoke burfts from
cracks m the frozen ocean. The natives are (hort, with long black hair»
fmall eyes, and flat faces, being a branch of the Iflcimos, or American
Samoieds : it is fuppofed that they do not now exceed ten thoufand, the
number having been greatly reduced by the fmall pox. Their canoes, in
which one man proceeds to kill fealsj are of a'fmgular conflru£lion, and
have fometimes been wafted as far as the Orkneys. The higheft moun-
tains are on the well fide ; and the three pinnacles of what is called the
Stag's Horn are vifible from fea at the diltance of forty or nkty leagues.
The rocks are generally rather vertical or little inclined, conlilting ofgra-
nitej with fome fand flone and lapis oUaris. A new mineral fubflance,
called cryolite, has been recei tly found in Greenland. The lapis oUaris is
of fingular utility in Greenland, and the north of America, being ufed
for lamps and culinary uteiifils. The foil confifts of unfertile clay or fand.
The winter is very fevere ; and the rocks often burll by the intenfity of
the froft. Above 66° the fun does not fct in the longed days, and at 64^
i* not four hours beneath the horizon.

LABRADOR.

This large extent of coaft was fo named by the Portuguefe navigator
who made the lirll difcovery. In the inland parts there were American
favagcs, and on the coails Ifl{imos ; but the former have moflly retired,
to the fouth, and even the latter feem gradually to withdraw. There'
were here only a few fadlories, till the Moravian clergy formed little fet-
tlements, particularly at Nain, about 1764. To thefe miffionaries we are
indebted for the difcovery of that elegant irridefcent felfpar, called the La-
brador ftone. It is faid to have been facft difcovered in failing through fome
lakes, where its bright hues were rcfleAed from the water. Mr. Cart^
Wright, who refided at intervals nearly fixteen years in this defolate coun-
try, has publiflied a minute and prolix journal, which however gives a
curious piAure of its date and appearances along the coaft, for the inland
parti have never been explored. The inliaibitants feem to be Iflcimos,

* Mr. Pennant, A. Z. ccxcii. obfunrct that the Yunpouth whale 6&,ttt, who proceed at
ta w Diflco Buy, givt ne intelligcncf conceniinK listliu't ba^,

and

.^.*£:t

650

NATIVE TRIBES, AND

and their manners arc very filthy. Ke who wi(hc8 to ftudy the manners
of bears may here find ample fatisfadion. At a cataraft, furrounded with
alders, fpruces, firs, larches, birch, and afpin, many falnioii afcend, and the
bears aflemble in numbers t6 catch their favourite prey. Some dive after
the fifh, and do not appear again till at the diftance of feventy or eighty
yards. Others feem to be loungers, who only come to fee what is going
forwards, and to enjoy the promenade and the fpe£iacle. Our author
counted thirty.two wnite bears, and three black ones*. Rein deer alfo
abound, and their venifon is excellent. So far as difcovcred, Labrador is
generally hilly, and even mountainous. The eaftern coad exhibits a muft
barren and iron-bound appearance, the rocky moimtains rifing fuddenly
, from the fea, with fpots of black peat earth, producing flunted plants.
Rivers, brooks, lakes, pools, and ponds are abundant, rich in fifh,
and frequented by innumerable birds. The eaftcm coail alfo prefenti-
thoufands of iflands, covered with flocks of fea-fowl, particularly eider
4uck8 ; and in the larger ifles thiire are deer, foxes, and hares. The
fifh are falmon, trout, pike, barbel, eels, and others. Inland the air ii
milder I tliere are many trees, and fome fymptoms of fertility. The

J>lant6 are wild celery, Icurvy-grafs, forrel and Indian fallad. There are
bme appearances of iron ; and the Ifkimos now colle£i the Labrador fpar
on the mores of the fea and lakes, for the rocks have not been difcovcred.
Perhaps this fpar was the fliining ftone brought ffxjm Labrador by one
of our earljr navigators, as a fpecimei} of gold ore. The birds are com.
tnon to ardic regions, and the animals are moftly of the fur^bearing kind.
The natives yre mountaTncers and Iflcimos; the former refembling gypfies,
with fomewhat of French features from a mixture of Canadian blood.
They chiefly live on rein deer, and alfo kill foxes, martins, and beavers.
They live in wigwams, a kind of tents covered with deer (kin and birch
bark ; and are a fort of Roman Catholics, being anxious to vifit the pricils
at Quebec. The Iflcimos are the fame people with the Grcenlanders,
They ufe fledges drawn by dogs, as in Alia.

HUDSON'S BAY,
The inland fea commonly called Hudfoti's Bay was explored in 1610;

and eaft, of that inland fea, fuppofed to extend from 70 ' to 1 15 ; and,
allowing the degree only thirty miles, the length will be 1350 G. miles,
and the medial breadth about 350. The valfextcnt of ice and fnow is
however of little confequencc confidered in itfelf ) and it is not uadcrilood
that the company gain great wealth.

The regions around Hudfon's 3ay, and that of Labrador, have, by a
mifcrable compliment to the parent country, been fometimes called New
Britain, a name not admitteo in Fvcnch or EnglUh maps. The parts on
the weft of Hudfon's Bay haYC {ijfo been called New North and South
Wales { while that on the mft t| 9yIi4 Eaft Main. In the fouth, James't
Bay ftretches uiland about ^P9 mUM hy »bout 150 in breadth ; and the
moft valuable Kttlemrnts are m that vicmity, as Albany fort, Moo&fort,
and Eaft Main jbAorv, Farther to tht fouth, and on the confines of Upper
Canada, are Bnulwricli boulet Fradcrick boufiei wad {i»oie Qthen, wbicb

• Cartwright, a. n40.

ftMpi

unconquered countries.

«5J

perhapSf belong to the North Weft Company. In the north, Severn
houfe is at the mouth of a large rivers which feems to flow from the lake
of Winnipic. York fort ftands on Nclfon river ; and ftill farther to the
north is ChurchOl fort, which feems the fartheft f ttkment in that direc-
To the weft the Hudfon's Bay company had e:(tended little

tion

farther than Hudfon's houfe : while the fuperior fpirit of the North>weil
Company has nearly approached the Pacific f. The moft important
rivers are the Nelfori and Saika(hawin, and the Severn ; the comparative
courfe of the latter fcarcely exceeding 400 B. miles, but of great breadth
and depth. In the fouth the Albany, Moofe, Abitib, and Harricana,
are the moft confiderable ; but all the rivers are impeded with falls and
(heals. Near that lingular inlet called Cheftedield there are many lakes,
but the barbarous names would neither edify nor entertain the reader ;
nor is it likely that they ihould ever become memorable in natural or
civil hiftory. The fea of Hudfon commonly prefents bold rocky (hores ;
but at intervals there are marftics and large beaches. There are fevera^
bigh iflands, the brgeft of which in the north has been little explored ;
and in what is called Baffin's Bay (if fuch a fea exift), fome maps and
charts admit a very Untge central ifland (called James Ifland^ which others
entirely rejed.

Even in lat. fj* the winters are extremely fevere ; tl^c ice on the Hvers
is eight feet thick, and brandy coagulates. The rocks burft with a hor-
rible noife, M^ual to that of heavy artillery, and the fplinters are thrown
to an amating diftanoe^. Mock^funs and bales are not unfirequent ;
and the fun rifes and lets with a large cone of jrellowilh light. The aurora
boredis diffHfes a variegalcd fplendour, which equals that of the full
moon I and the ft«rt fparkle with fiery redncft. Tne fifli in Hudfoo fea
«K far from ntimeroai 1 and the whale Qihery ha* bc«n attenipted without
fuccefs. There are few fliell'fifli { and the quadrupedl apd birds corre,
fpond with tbofe of Labrador and Canada. The northern indjeencs are
Ilkimosf but there are other favages in tlie fouth : and the hwms$ are
yifited by ievcral tribes*

CENTRAL PARTS.

Till the journey of Mr. Hearne, an officer of the Hudfon's Bay Com-
pany, in 177 1» and the more difficuk and laborious enterprizes of Mr.
Mackenzie in 1789 and 1703 { little was known concerning the interior
parts of North America, fn I74<S D'Anville lays down, with confider-
able accuracy,' the (ca of Canada, or the three jjreat conjunA lakes. He
dofes with the Lake of the Woods ) and a nver (now called Winnipic)
runs to the N*» whUe from the fame lake a faurge river proceeds to the W.,
** difcovered by a favage vtXkd Qckagac," but which does not exill. Not
far to the S. of the I^ike of tlie Wwds hv places the Mifliflippi, but fays
that the fources are Unknown { they ave now marked on that very fpot.
After a few other pofitions in that vicinity, he declares Iiis ignorance of
the country farther to the weft* Tbqi the great bkes of Winnipic, of
the Hills* and the Slave lake, wWi tkt iiiMnenfe ranges of mountains, and
other important ftalures, wevt ttikiwwfi to this able geof rapher, who was

•ChuKhailbit

tThcbowMiuyheiwsi

io* |itt ri^ft that |iMS

ibviliUiiril* llhdfixiMAiiirHBNfrWalH.

I Iht lUKm't tsj Coajpanf eai Quadt k «aderftoa4 to fo!-

, . Jbmw «» dw^riMM flsmacM.saAiS^firsiUkeAitniDcs,

«heiKeUt.49*isft25tofNndtslilrit ^

IhaoMKf A,X.ccicvi|

•ufler

6$i

NATIVE TRIBES, AND

mafter of all the knowledge of his time. The lake of ^nnipie appeari
.>to have been difclofed to European notice about 1760, by furriers front
Canada ; and much was faid of an imaginary large river called the Bour
bon ; which may bowever have been the Saikafhawin.

Mr. Hearne performed his journeys in the years 1769 — ^1772 j but his
book did not appear till 170 J. He proceeded from Fort Prince of Wales,
or Churchill, and explored a group of lakes, called Doobant and other
names, near Chcfterfield inlet : and, farther to the weft, a lake of great
extent, which he calls Athapufcow, the centre being in long. 125°, lat.
62'' ; evidently the Slave lake of Mr. Mackenzie, in the fame latitude,
but long. 115". The junftion of the Copper Mine river with the Arftic
ocean was the moft curious difcovery of Mr. Hearne, whofe journeys
feemed fufficiently to demonftrate that no north-weft paflage was to be
expedited. Mr. Hearne's adventures on his new route are amufing and
interefting. He met with many herds of muik cattle, a curious fpecies
detcribed and engraved by Mr. Pennant in his Arftic Zoology. On
the 14th of July 177 1, he arrived at the Copper river, and on the 17th he
was within fight of the fea. " I therefore fet inftaptty about commencing
my furvey, and purfued it to tlie mouth of the river ; which I fend au
the way fo full of fhoals and falls, that it was not navigable even for a
boat, and that it emptied itfelf into the fea over a ridge or bar. The tide
was then out ; but I judged from the marks which I faw on the edge of
the ice, that it flowed abt)ut twelve or fourteeii feet, which will only reach
a little way within the river's mouth. The tide being out, the water in the
river was perfe£lly frelh ; but I am certain of its being the fea, or feme
branch of it, by the quantity of whalebone jinci feal-ilans which the Ifkimos
had at their lents, and alfo by the number of feals lyhigh I faw on the
ice. At the mouth of the river the fea is fult of iflands and ihoals, at
far as I could fee with the ailiftance of a good pocket telefcope. The
ice was not then broke up, but was melted away for about three quarters
of a mile from the main fhore, and to a little diftance round the iflands and
flioals*.'* He found the Kkimos here of a dirty copper colour, andra-
ther Ihorter in ftature than thofe to the fouth. The kettles are made of
lapis ollaris, of a mixed brown and whit« ; and .their hatchets and knives
are of copper. The dogs have fharp ere^l ears, pointed nofes, and bufty
tails, being a fine breed of that foirt. Many kinds of fea-fowl were ob>
ferved } aqd in the ponds and marihes, fwans, gce'fe, curlews, and plovers.
The quadrupeds are mu^ cattle, rein-deer^ bears, wolves, wolvereens,
foxes, alpine hares, fquirrels, ermines, r ^;e. Mr.' Hearne afterwards
vifitedone of the copper miaes, about thirty miles S.E. from the mouth
ef the river, being merely a hill whiclvfeems to have been rent by an earth-
quake, or perhaps by fubterranean water. The copper is found in lumps,
and is beaten out by the help of fire and two ftones. Upon his return,
Mr. Hearne pafled farther to the weft ; and on the ?4th of Depembef
1771, he arrived at the north fide oFthe great lake of Athapufcow. This
lake is very full of wooded iilands, and according to the natives is 120
leagues in lepgth, ^rom eaft tcr \. eft, and 20 wide. It is ftored w^ith great
quantities of pike, tro.ut, percl|» barljelj.and two otji^r forts of fifli called
by the natives (lUameg and meth);. " THe, northern rtiore confifts of con-
'fufed rocks ant'liills, but the Ibuthern' iS level and beautiful ; and there
are many wild c^f\p ai!^ij|j|c^fe ,de$r. |^e farmer, particularly the bulisj
. k.u \' . ^ "i . • s,. '-J ( ,

♦ Pennant, A; Zf l62k Wh}%i6t tftft«i tKe Wit*!*? It aA^ havo beeh a lan^ fre(hwitc»
lake. Seals are common in the na of Baikal ; and tWwhakbone may have been procured iu
barter. The fuj.f ofcd tide is not unknown in high winds upon the (buthcta hktltt ■

UNCQNQUERED COUNTRIES.

«53

beinff larger tha^ the EnglUj^ blackx:attle. Proceeding fouthward, he ar-
rived at the great Athapuifcow river, which he found about two miles in
breadth) being evidently the Slavje river of Mr. Mackenzie. Our traveller
then paiTed eaftward yirithout any remarkable difcovery, and arrived at
Fort Prince of Wales 30th June 1772.

Mr. Mackenzie's journeys were of yet more confequence *. In June
1789 he embarked in a canoe at fort Chepiwian, on the fouth of the Lake
of the Hills, and proceeded along the Slave river to the Slave lake, whence
he entered a river now called after his own name, till he reached the Arc«
tic ocean. The Slave river he defcribes as very confiderable, and fays it
received its name from an Indian tribe, called Slaves merely from their
extreme ferocity. The Slave lake he found covered with ice in the month
of June, and the chief iifh were carp, white fifli, trout, and pike. The
banks were covered with fpruce, pine, white birch, and poplars. The river
called after his name is fometimes fifty fathoms in depth, thoueh not
above three hundred yards in breadth. On the i ith of July the Tun re-
mained all night confiderably above the horizon ; and foon after he feems
to have reached the fea, in which, near the wide eftuary of the river, he
obferved feveral whales. Though fo far to the north, there feems to be
other favages befides Iflcimos ; and it would appear from their report that
there is another large river on the wellern fide of the Rocky Mountains^
which alfo joins the Arctic ocean. On his return Mr. Mackenzie ob-
ferved petroleum, and a large bed of coal on fire ; and on the 12th Sep-'~
tember 1789, our author finifiied his firfl voyage, which had occupied one
hundred and two days. A complete confirmation thence arifes that there
is no northern communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific } ex«
cept at fo high a latitude that it muft be impeded by perpetual ice.

Equally important and intereiting was Mr. Mackenzie's fecond voyage^
for, though inland, the term is proper, as both were conduf^ed on large
rivers, by means of canoes. Our enterprifing traveller left fort Chepiwiaa
on the loth Odlober 1792, and proceeded up the Peace river, or Unjiga,-
in a S. W. dirediion, till he reached a high land beyond the Stoney or
Rocky Mountains, the height of which he computes at 817 yards. After
tranfporting their canoe with fome difficulty, they embarked on a fmalt
river on the other fide, which foon brought them into the river Oregany
Columbia, or the Great River of the Well, the origin and courfe oi* which
were before totally mifunderftocd. After proceeding a confiderable way
he returned again ft the ftream, and then travelled to the Pacific Ocea»
by land ; ami reached one of the numerous inlets lat. 52° 20V by Mrr
Anrowfmith's map of the expedition. On the weft of the Unjiga, beau-
tiful fceiivry was obferved, interfperfed with hill and lawn, with groves
of poplai's, and enlivened with vaft herds of elks on the uplands, and of-
bufi'aloeson the plains. The laft fo much abound, that in fome places
the country refembles a ftalUyard. That fierce fpecies called the grizzly
bear was alfo feen. The Unjiga is fometimes from 4 to Soo yards wide i
and the cold was often extreme, rather from the height of the general
level than tliat of the mountains, which does not exceed 1500 feet.^
Among the birds obferved were blue jays, yellbw birds, and beautiful
humminff birds. Beavers are common, and tracks of moofe deer were
remarked. Where they reached the Oregan, it was about 200 yards
wide. Towards the Facifit the natives are fairer than in the other parts
of North America ; and one man was at leaft fix feet four inches in height.-
Their eyes are not dark> like thofe <^ the other Indians, but grey, with

* MsokeDste's Voyagw, London, I801, 4to. p. C4.

\. -

K^'

a tinge

m-t

654

NATIVE TRIBES, AND

a tinge of red. The men wear only « robe male of the btrk of the cedir
tree, rendered as fine as hemp, ibmethnes with bordera of red and ytfhw
threads ; and the women add a fliort apron. Some of tliefar canoes ntt
forty<five feet m len^h, the gun-wale being inUd wiitb the teeth of
,the fea otter, not with human teeth as Ca^ain O o!<^^ fuppofed. In
September 1793, ^^ returned to fort Cliepiwian, aflir ti.. abience of eleven
months.

Thefe voyages having confiderably improved the g«^^^^phy of North
America, it was thought proper to narrate them at fome Kngth. It ii
to be regretted however, that fome obfcurity arifes from the want of a
diftind nomenclature, and the' equivocal ufeor abufe of fome of the ap.
pellations. From thefe and other difcoveries conmiunicated by officers of
the Hudfon's Bay Company, the geography of North America begins
to open with more clearnefs, as may be judged from Mr. Arrowfmith's
lail map 1803. The large northern takes are now laid down with fnpe«
rior accuracy. The great river Unjtga, after penetrating the weftern
range of mountains, flows N. £. towards the Lake of the Hills, whence
it receives a (hort but large ftream ; and being afterwards abfurdly enough
ftyled the Slave river, it bends N. W. to the great Slave lake, whence it
iffues by the name of Mackenzie's river. Such at lead is Mr. Macken.
zie's idea^ ; and, if accepted, the name of Unjiga Ihould be retained to its
egrefs into the Ardic Ocean, after a comparative courfe of about 1700
Britifli miles.

Next in confequence is the Salkafliawin, rifine on the eaftem fide of the
great range, and palling E. to the great lake of Winnipic, when i^ amin
ifTues umMTtJie name of Nelfon river, and falls into Hudfon's Bay, uter
a comparative comrfitof more than 1000 B. miles. ^

A third great river, now totenJbly afcertained, is the Oregan, or Colum>
bia, alfo called by the natives Tacoutdte Teife, whofe courfe is now
defcribed as being to the S. inftead of the Wl, and about 700 B. miles
in length. There are doubtlefs other important rivers towards the welt :
and a confiderable one, as before mentioned, feems to join the ArAic
Ocean.

The genuine fources of the Mifiburi, erroneoufly by the favages called
the Miffiifippi, from the lead important ftream, feem alfo to be clearly
evidenced, from a journey of Mr. Fidler in the fervice of the Hudfon's
Bay Company ; a difcovery which, as already explained, adds greatly to
the length of that grand and interefting river. The real diredion and
uniform extent of the great weftern range of mountains feem alfo to be
clearly delineated.

Thefe obfervations were demanded by the prefent progreffivg ftate of
the geography of North America. In a more immediate view of the cen*
tral parts of this divifion of the new continent, it muft not be forgotten,
that they are the feats of many native and unconquered tribes, whofe
manners have bcenTo frequently defcribed by a hod of travellers, that little
needs be faid in a work of this limited nature. Their modes of hunting
and warfare, their extreme cruelty towards their prifoners, the fingula*
rities of fcalping, and the ufe of the calumet, are fufBciently known.
A more difficult topic would be an enumeration of the various tribes ; and
a clafiiBcation according to their languages.

By a ftrange abufe of terms we fpeak familiarly of the favage nattoiu
of North America, while few of thefe pretended n<ai<mt can afpire to
the name of a tribe, and the term clan, or even family, would be more ap>

•?. ai6. .3S7.

proprlated.

UNCONQUERED COUNTRIES.

655

propriated. The enumeration of thefe clans would be tedious ; and a lift
of rour hundred barbarous names would little intereft the reader, except
they could be daffed according to languages. Biit a few remarks on the
jnott noted tribes muft not be omitted. The five nations of the En^lifli
^ters are the Iroquois of the French, being the Mohawks, Oneidas,
Ooondagas, Cayugas, and Sennekas ; five clans joined in an old confe-
deracy of offence and defence *, The Mohawks were on the fouth of
the river fa called, in the province of New York } while the others ex-
tended towards the lake Ontario. The Hurons were on the eaft of the
lake of dMt name. But, after the Mexicans, the chief tribe in North
America was that of the Natchez, near the mouth of the Milfiflippi,
whofe worOiip of the fun, and other peculiarities, have been iliuftrated by
Pratz, Charlevoix, and other writersf . In a work of more extent it might
be proper to defcribe Uie manners of this people, of the Five Nations, of
the Central ti-ibe, of the Ifkimos, and of the Weftem races on the Pa-
cific. The Algonkin was the moft celebrated of the native languages,
beginning at the gulf of St. Lawrence, and including a circuit of about
3000 miles. The Huron language, which was alfo that of the Five Na-
tioas, was of fmallcr extent, on the weil of the Algonkin. Yet farther
to the welt was the language of the Sioux, which was alfo that of the
Kniftineaux corruptly called Chriilinaux, but properly Killiftinons, ori-
ginally feated on the north of Lake Superior;]:. But, according to
Mr. Mackenzie, the Killiftinons were originally the fame people with
the Algon kins, or inhabitants of the Atlatitic coad; while the Chepi-
wians, or Chepawas, and the numerous tribes who ^>eak their language,
occupy the whole fpace between the country of the Killiftinons, and
that of the Iflcimos, extending to the river Columbia, laT. 52. By
their own traditions they came from Siberia ; while intelligent travellers,
on the contrary, confider the Techuks as proceeding from America :
but fuch interchanges of nations are not unfrequent in barbarous periods.
The tribes near the foi|rce of the Miifouri are faid to be from the fouth,
s^nd their progrefs N.W. probably retiring from the Spanifh power.
The language of the Natchez, and other nations in the Spanifli territory,
has not ocen fufficiently illullrated ; and in the ifthmus the dialefts are
faid to be various, and radically di(lin£t, yet probably, on a nearer and
more fkiiful examination, would be found to approach the Mexican.

WESTERN COAST.

The Ruffians may be regarded as the firft difcoverers of the north-"
weftern fhores of America. To the ifles between Afia and this con-
tinent they aifign diifcrent names, as Andrenovian, &c. but in their own
moil recent maps one general appellation is fubflituted, that of the
Aleutian Iflet. The fartheft Aleutian Ifles, which form a chain from
the American promontory of Alafka, are alfo called the Fox ides ;
while tlie nearefl Aleutian Ifles of the Ruffians are thofc which we
term Bering's and Copper. But in the beft Englifh maps the name of
Aleutian is reftriftcd to the former ; and it is to Engliih navigators
that we are indebted for the precife geography of thefe regions,
which have been ilrani^ely embroiled by tne erroneous aflronomical ob-
fervations of the Ruffian captains.

• Colden, p. 1.

{ Charlevoix, i. 983. 370. 406.

f Th« Natdin w* no* qctiuA. Imlay, p. 435.

This

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6$6

NATIVE TRIBES, ANO

This coail, as already mentbned, feems to be chiefly alpine ; in
which refpe£t, and in its numerous creeks and ifles it bears no fmall re-
jfeinblance to Norway. The moft remarkable mountain feems to be
that called St. Elias by the Rufllan navigators ; and which, it is af-
firmed, has been vilible at fea at no lefs a diftance than about iixty
leagues. At Pott des Francois, lat. 58°, 37', La Peroufe obferves that
the primitive mountains of granite or flate rife from the fea, yet the
fummits are covered \vith perpetual fnow, and immenfe glaciers wind
through the cavities *. The lofty mountains, which La Peroufe com-
putes at more than ten thoufand feet in height, terminate at Crofs
Sound ; but the alpine ridges continue, though of fmaller elevation,
and probably extend with few interruptions as far as California. Mr.
Mackenzie in lat. ^3^, and Vancouver in a more fouthem latitude,
found the fame mountainous appearances. What is called the coaft of
New Albion has been faintly explored ; and the Spanifh power is al-
ways an obftrudlion to fcience. The inhabitants of the more northern
regions of this coaft appear to be Iflcimos. In the part through which
1^. Mackenzie paffcd, he found fome of the tribes of a low (tature,
with round faces, high cheek bones, black eyes and hair; the com-
plexion of a fwarthy yellow.

Manners, &C.3 After this general furvey of the unconquered coun-
tries, fome account of the indigenal tribes fhall L ■* added :

The dances among the Indians are many and various, and to each of
them there is a particular hoop. i. The calumet dance, s, The war
dance. 3. The chief's dance. 4. The fet out dance. 5. The fcalp
dance. 6. The dead dance. 7. The prifoner's dance. 8« The return
dance. 9. The fpear dance. 10. The marriage dance. 11. The fa-
crifice dance. The Indians of Canada, in their war dances few hawk
bills, and fmall pieces of tin on them to make a iinglmg noife< The
favagts are efteemed very adlive and nimble fuotea. They are alfo ad*
mirable fwimmeT^s, and are not afraid of the (Irongeil currer*.

One part of their religious fuperftition confifts in each of them having
his totam, or favourite fplrit, which he believes watches over hitr.
This totam they conceive aflfumes the (hape of fome particular head,
which therefore they never kill, hunt, or eat. Dreams are much at-
tended to by the Indians, and fometimes they make an artful ufe of the
veneration that is paid to them, to fecure fome objedl they may have in
view.

The Kniftineaux, more properly Killiftons or Kiftinons, are a nation
of fome confequence fprcad over a vafi. extent of country in the centre
of the northern part of America. Their lang\iage is the fame as that
of the people who inhabit the coaft of Britiiti America on the Atlantic,
with the exception of the Efquimeaux. They are of moderate ftature,
well proportioned, and of great aAivity. They are naturally mild and
affable, as well as juft in their dealings, not only among themfelves, but
with ftrangers. The females of this nation are in the fame fubordinate
ftate with thofe of all other favage tribes ; but the feverity of their
labour is much diminidied by their lituation on the banks of lakes wai
rivers, where they employ canoes.

The favages of Nootka are faid to be very cruel to thtir captivet
taken in war, and commonly eat their children. They nifo throw the
dead bodies into the fea, in order, as they imagine, to attraA the whaleii
M this lilh forms a favourite repail. In the fouthcrly part oi North

• II. p. lao.

Amcrki

U^JCONQUERfeD COUNtRIES.

«jr

America the Mexicans were the moft diftinguiihed nation^ and had
|)erhap8 advanced to fome .degree of civilization* They feem to have
been followed by their neighbours of Tlafcala, while many other tribes
in that quartef , :tnd as far as the iftmus of Darien ftill continue in the
favage ftate. The Alibamons were a confiderable tribe on the rivei"
AHbama in Georgia. They were diftinguiftied by their hoTpitality and
aifability^ the men being robuft, and the women handfom^.

The Papagos refide near Upper Pitheria.

The Mofquinos or Mofquis dwelt in the centre of the mother chain
of mountains in the part bordering on New Mexico. They were for-
merly converted by the Francifcans^ but they have killed all the million-
trieS) and abjured the Chriftian faith.

The Cocomaricopas dwelt on the river Gila, the fpaice between which
and the Colorado is a vaft upland defert ; and there is another tribe of
the fame fatages dn the weft of the Colorado. They are addi£led to
agriculture, fowing wheat, maize, &c.

In New Mexico there are thirty villages of Chriftian Indians of vari-
ous tribes, who are generally induftrious, and clothed in the (kins of
wild goats, while the Women wear mantles of wool or cotton. All have
their inftruments of agriculture, and travel on horfeback.

The letans or Cumanches are a powerful nation, which is entirely
erratic, without the leaft fpecies of cultivation, and fubfifting folely by
the chace.

The principal favage tribes on the Miffouri are the Ofages, who raife
large quantities of corn, beans and pUmkins ; the Kansas on the river
of the fame name ; the Ottos at the confluence of the Flat or (hallow
River with the Miflouri } and the Panis, or Pawneed on the fame flream*

Bofany of Canada and the North.

Thb indigenous plants of the regions north of the river St. Lawrence
form a Angular mixture of the floras of Lapland and the United States*
From the intenfely cold winters and hot fummers of this extenfive ap-
pendage to the Britifh empire, it might, indeed, be expelled that the
annual plants^ and fuch as are capable of being fheltered in winter under
the fnow, Ihould be, for the moft part, the fame as thofe of more fouthern
countries { while the trees and fhrubs, having to brave the utmoft rigout'
of the climate unprotected, fhould be charafteriftic of the Arftic regions.
A regard to this circumftance will enable us to explain t!ie feeming cun-
tradidions in the agriculture of Canada, which are fcarcely credible by
the mere uninformed Englifh farmer, fuch as that gourds and water me-
lons fhould be a common field crop, while the liardiell winter corn is
almoft always deftroyed by the cold.

The forefts are numerous, but the trees never attain that bulk and
luxuriance of growth which didinguifhes them in the fouthern ftates.
The family of tirs and evergreens compofes perhaps the lar^jeft propor-
tion ; and of thrfe the principal are, the filver^leavcd fir, the Weymouth
pine, the Canadian pine, the hemlock fpruce fir, and the white cedar
of Canada, (thuya occidentalis), which muft not be confounded with the
white cedar of the United States, (cuprefTfis difticha). Next to thrfe in
importance are the fugar maple, the red maplcj the birch, the American
lime and elm, and the iron wood. The numerous fpecies of oaks are ei^
ther vhoUy unknown, or are contradled into defpicahle fhrubs^ all th*
fhip tit her of Canada being brought from the New England pro^Jnofs.
Thi- Oiirifiii Uur;;], ind red mulberry, Arc alfo met with iit the ilknds of

ili'tPf

THE AMERICAN ISLANDS, OR

the St. La«mf«neer but in a firiiiUr ftate^f deprefiioo, the whole of the
fummer's growth being often deftrpyed by the next winter. The afh,
the yew, find mountain aHi are found in the northern trails both of the
old and new world ; but the light feftoons of wild vine, with its pendent
.clufters, »id the fragrant blofloms of the Syrian afclepias, form a cha*
rafleriftic feature of the foreft fcenery of Canada.

The C^adian lily, fimilar to the SaVrane lily of Kanufchatka, and the
ginfeng, common to America and Taiary, point out a iimilarity between
%he northern floras of Afia and America.

The juniper, tlie cranbeny, the bearberry, the black and red
currant, the rafpberry, and wild cherry, which have already beei>
mentioned as natives of Lapland and the whole north of Europe, arc
found in great plenty in'^fimilar fituations on the Appufite Ihorcs of tiie
Atlantic.

Of the other Canadian plants little is known, and a meajrre catalogue
of Linnaetn names would little contribute either to the amufement or to
t!ie inllrudion of the general reader. One, however, the xizania aquatica,
dcferves to be mentioned : this graminaceous vegetable is nearly allied
to the rice ; it grows abundantly in all the ftJallow ftreams, and Jts mild
farinaceous feeds contribute eflentially to the fupporc of the wander-
ing tribes of Indians, and to the imtnenfe flights of fvvans, geefe,
and other aquatic fowls, which rcfort hither for the purpofe of breeding.
Produtlivfc as it is, and habituated to the climate, inhabiting alfo fiiu.
atioiis which refute all other culture, it is furprifing that the Euro,
pean fettlers have as yet taken no pains to improve a plant which feemj
intended by nature to become at lomc future period the bread-corn oC
the north.

; ISLES OF COLON,

iy£Sl' INDIES, V ■ .

THESE iflandf, fo important to commerce, are Cuba, St. Viomxx^^n,
Janiaica, arid Porto Kico, all of confidrrable extent ; and followed
by the diftinguifhed group called the Antilles, Caribbee, or Leeward
Iflandi, but more properly by the French, Windwvjrd Iflaiuk, as bemjif
toward* the eaft, the point of the trade wind ♦. To the fouth of this
group is Trinidad, a recent Englifh acquifition ; to the weil of which
ftrctch the Leeward Iflands of the Spaniards. In the K E of thisfrriir.d
aOemblage vit the Bahama or Lucayos Hf^ndr, narrow and barren i<l'.ps
of land, fbrmerly frequented by pirates, till fubjrfJ.d to the legal power
of England t but chiefly remarkable as having be»n the fitft difcoveryof
Colon. The refllrii? . J nature c f this work 'vill not jdmit of t def« • o-
tion adequate to the importance uf thefe ifiandR* which itt tSi« left Ut Ce
regretted, at tht fub)eo is already familiar to moR readers. The Ul
geographical order appears to be that fuggcfted by their n it oral rxtenf
and importance, independent of the parttd tnd Aecting dilttn^Mni j^
Buropean poiTenion.

* Our itisrinnt applv >>oth trmu to ihe Caribbet IQandi i (}i« Wimlwri) **v\^ with
MvUaicv, thf Lstmld JrcackUu liuia licnuucs to Pgttv K^o- tdww^j i. » .

CUBA.

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• Rob

WEST INDIES.
CUBA.

659

-j>r-i« ,s\..

This noble ifland is not lefs than 700 B. miles in length; but the me-
dial breadth does not exceed 70. On hisfirftvoyagef after exploring the
Bahama Ifles, Colo.i difcovered Cuba*; but though delighted with the
beauty of the fcenery, and amazed at the luxuriant fertility of the foil,
he fooii abandoned it to proceod to Hayti, afterwards called Hifpaniola,
or St. Domingo, where he expedled to tind a greater abundance of gold ;
wliich, with gems and fpices, formed the only objects of the early naviga-
tors. While Hifpaniola was felefted asti fadory to fecure the acquifi-
lion of gold, it was not certainly knotvn wliether Cuba was an ifluid,
or part of the continent, till 150S, when it was circumnavijrated by
Ocr!mpo; and in 15 It- it was conquered by three hundred Spaniards
under Vclafquezf. The number of the inhabitants was no doubt
exaggerated, as even in our enlightened times happened with regard to
Otaheite, and other new difcovci ies. The Spaniards certainly did not
atchieve miracles in their American conqueft*, nor was the awkward
uie of unwieldy cannon and fire-arms, at that time, fo fatal and pre-
ponderant a circumftance as may be imagined. The Malays, with their
creefes, defy fire-arms. The natives were not only timid, but few :.
and nine-tenlhs may be fafcly fubtraded both from Spanifli valour and
Spaniih cruelty. Thefo reile(!^ioiis have been excited by the charge of
extermination brought againft the Spaniards of Cuba; while the natives
equally var.idi around all Europeaa colonies, the real deftroying aiigt-la
beiii^ the fmall pox, and fpirituous liquors.

The iiiduftry of the Spaniards is far from being proverbial ; yet fuch
i» the fertility of Cuba, that it may be regarded as a moft important and
flonrifhing poffeflion. The quantity of fugar is confiderable ; and the
tobacco is clteemed of a more exquifite flavour than that of any other part
of America. This, with the other large iflands, were alfo called the
Great Antilles, and they were alfo known by the name Sotavenio, or the
Lcttuard IJIanffstin contradillinftion to the exterior gnnip called ^rtr/o-
vcntoi or ^imliuard Iflands. Havanua tl\<- capital, was built in 1519 ;
and was taken in 1669 by Morj^an, a celebrated buccaneer. It again
fiirrendered to the Engliih in 1761, and tifrtfures were found of no fmall
amount. This extenlive ifland is dividvd by a chain of mountains pafling
E. aiid W. Tlu' rivers are of (hort courfe, but there are feveral excel-
lent harbours. Aniong the produdls mull alfo be reckoned ginger, long
ptfpper, maflic, cocoa, maiiioc, and aloes. There ate mines of excellent
copper, which fiip^-ly the otlu-r Spanifh colonies with domeftic utr-ufils ;
and ^rold is nut uhk:jown in the rivers. The fovefts abound with wild
cattle and fvvine ; and among the trees are green ebony and mahogany*
There is a gov-i lor-gt-nrral ; and eighteen jurifdiitions are governed by
iiilSnct magiilnilcs. The najurul liiilory of this large iiland is ver^
WLlLdive, a.s is the cafe with Jl the Spanifli pofleiHona.

Havar.;ia prcfcutc the appearance of an European town, and its prof-
peiity may Im* judged of from the number of cabriolets which exceed
three thaufand. Tliecollrge.orunivtnfityof Havanna,wasfoundedinf774,
by the bifliop Echavaaia, with two proteflbrs of theology, oneof philofo-
phy, and two of Latin. The arfenal is fuperb ; and (hips of .var are
built of cedar, and other woods fupplied by the ifland. The garrifon
is one of the chirf in Spat»Uh America, conliftinff of two regiments of
veterans, two of light infantty, ou« fqu»dron of dragoons, and oth«:t

I'i u"m& Sam a

' ! ■

jitiia \-M-- ■■■' J., ^

* Rob«rtiwi)N Ajnenc», i. 19CI.

t Ik 949.

troopi}

666-

THE AMERICAN ISLAtoS, Ot

troops ; the total about ten thoufand. In addition to th? well knowti
caftle of Mora, fort San Carlos was built in 1763, and San Diego in
1780. The theatrcy however, has been gradually abandoned, and was
ruined in 1792.

Havanna forms as it were an univerfalmart for all the rich produfts of
New Spain, and the returns from the parent countfy.

The people of Havanna are, like other Spaniards, fond of bull fights j
and, like the Meidcans, alfo infatuated with cock fighting. The balls
form another favourite amufement, and no invitation is required, a gen<
teel drefs being fufficient. Some of the dances are native and graceful.

The age of the inhabitants generally extends to fixty or feventy
years ; ilnd though fome exceed that period, their faculties are com-
monly annihilated. The manner of living is generally as obje£):ionable
as in New Spain. In the morning with chocolate, coffee, or milk, is
taken a favoury difh, called chuletot or ribs of pork, which they have
frefh throughout the year, or fome ether animal food fried in lard : at
mid-day, the ufual difh is agiacot a kind of fruit of fo hot a tafte, that
tears bathe the cheeks of the guefts. In the evening there is a regular
fupper of rice feafoned with fait and lard, boiled fleih, fallads, and other
difhes. At the two laft meals, the ufual defert is fweetmeats, or fugar
prefFcd from the cane, the confumpt of which is incredible.

SAINT DOMINGO.

This Ifland, the fecond in the American archipelago, is now wholly
pofTeffed, at leaft nominally, by the French ; and is about 400 B,
miles in length by 100 in breadth. Under the name of Hifpaniola it
was the firfl Spanifh fettlement in the New World. The French colony
derived its origin from a party of buccaneers, moftly natives of Nor-
mandy, towards the middle of the feventeenth century ; and the weftet-n
part was formally ceded to France by the peace of Ryfwick. So in-
duftrious and flourifhing was this French colony, that it was termed
the paradife of the Weil Indies: and according to Mr. Edwards^, in
1 790, the population amounted to 30,000 whites, and about 480,000
negro (laves, the mulattocs, or free people of colour, being fuppofed
to be 24,000 ; while the average exports before the revolution flood
thus !

Livret.
41,049,549
34,619,931
12,479,716
71,663,187
8,564,463
2,767,320
312,000
52,003
1 1 8,500

Clayed fugar,
Mufcovado,

Coffee, - - - lbs.

Cotton, ... lbs.

Indigo, - - - hhds.

MoIafTes, - - hhds.
An inferior fort of rum called taifia, hhds.

Raw hides, - - No.

Tanned ditto, - - No.

lbs. 58,642,214

lbs. 86,549,829

71,663,187

6,698,858

951,607

23,061

2,6oo

6,500

7»yoo

The total value at the ports of fliipping in
livres of St. Domingo, was

beirg equal to 4,765,1 29I. fterling money of Great Britain.

171,544,666

• Hlfttwy *f St. T>om;ngo, 1797, 4tO. p. 134.
W*«l> Indim, i^Ol, ivx

Reprinted ia th«kthird volume of hit

The

WEST INDIES.

66 1

The national aflembly of France, unhappily Gonfifting of philofophera
ftnd not of men of bufinefs, paflfed fome contradidlory decrees concerii-
ing the rights of the nnulattoes, or people of colour, to vote for re-
prefentatives. The fmaHell ray of political prudence might have
informed them that the government of diftant colonies ought not to
ba%e fuflered the leaft alteration, till years after that of the parent
country were eftabli(hed on a folid and lafting bafis. After many abf
furd ftruggles between the whites and mulattoes, on the 2 id June
1793, three thoufand negroe flaves, fupported by the mulattoes, en-
tered the capital city of Cape Francois, and perpetrated an uuiyerfal
maffacre of the white men, women and children. The abolition of
Slavery by the infatuated commiifioners, in order to defend the ifland
againft the EngliOi, has had th*^ effe^l that might have been forefeen, the
colony having been loft, at lealt for a feafon, to European civilization
and culture.

The centre of the iiland is occupied by a group of high mountains
called Cibao. From this group there rife three great chains ; the
longed ilretching towards the eaft, and dividing that portion of the
iiland. Another chain ftretches to the north-weft, ending at Cape
Foux, while another, of lefs elevation, runs nearly in the fame dire<^ion,
and ends at Cnpe St, Mark. The number of mountains in the wettera
part of the ifland renders the communication difficult between the
northern and fouthern provinces.

The chief rivers are the Ozama on the fouth, the Yagua on the north,
the Yuna on the eaft, and the Artibon on the wi.'ft ; but none is navi-
gable above four leagues from its mouth.

There is a great number of ejlers or fait marfhes, which render the
climate unhealthy. The vegetable foil is in general of no great depth,
but moft of the hills admit cultivation. Towards the north and weft
the rocks are chiefly calcareous, and formed .of madrepores. In other
parts, according to Moreau, there are granites, porphyries, andjafpera
of great beauty. Some of the waters contain a portion of fulphur :
and there are two mineral fprings which abound with the fame fub.-
ilance.

The chains of mountains produce fuch varieties of climate, that the
inhabitants are not agreed which feaipns they fliall denominate fummer
or winter. In the eaft and fouth the feafon of rains, frQm April to
November, is called winter ; while in the north, that feafon commences
in Auguft and ends in April, during which the northern winds blow
and bnng clouds and rain. In May, June, and July the heats are ex-
ceffive. The tropical putrid fever, alfo called the yellow fever, was
dellruf^ve to the French troops on the late expeditisn againft the ne-
groes. The beautiful town of Cape Franfois has been burnt to the
ground, and is now a heap of ruins.

'■ 'V.; '.'. ''\W-;i> ■"

JAMAICA,

This Ifland was discovered by Colon, 1494, during his fecond voy,
age, but was little explored till his fourth and laft voyage, when he was
.lufortunately confined for many months on the north itdt* of this ifle,
by the lofs of his ftiips. In 1655 it fell into the hands of the Englifli,
by whofe induftry it has becpme one of the moft flounfhing of the Weft
Indian fettlements'. In fize it is the third ifland in this archipelago,
kin^ about 170 J3. miles m length, by 00 in {jrcadth. It is divided

y " 3 int.}

66i

THE AMERICAN ISLANDS, OR

into three counties, Cornwall in the weft, Middlfifix in t];r» centre, and
Surry in the eaft. St. Japjo or Spanifh Town is regavded as the capital ;
while Kingfton is the chief fea-port. The number of negroes is computed
at 250,000, and the wliites are probably 20,000, the free negroes and mii-
lattoee 10,000. The chief exports are to Great Britain, Ireland, and North
America, in fugar, rum, coffee, indigo, ginger, and pimento, valued ini 787
at 2,ooo,oool. The intercourfe with Honduras, and the Mofquito fhore,
may now be regarded as abandoned ; but fome little trade is earned on with
Spanilh America by fmall veffels, which elude the vigilance of the guarda
coftas. The imports were computed at a million and a half, and flaves from
Africa formed a conliderable article. There ii a poll tax, with duties
on negroes and rum, yielding more than ioo,ooiol. annually ; and the
ordinary expences of goventment in 1788 were computed at 75,0001.
The legiflature confifts of the captain -general or governor ; a council of
twelve, nominated by the crown ; and a houfe of affembly, containing
forty-three members, elefted by the freeholders * ; the three chief
towns, St. Jacfo, Kinglton, and Port Royal, returning three members,
the other pariflies two. The principal towns are within a (hort diftance
of each other, Spanifh Town being inland ; while Kingfton is on the
north fide, and Port Royal, on the weft, of a confiderabYe bay ; the laft
being greatly reduced by earthquakes and other calamities, The cli-
mate, though tempered by the fea breezes, is extremely hot ; and the
days and nights nearly of equal duration. A ridge of mountains,
from eaft to weft, divides the ifland into two parts ; and the landfcape
often boafts of peculiar beauties. In the north the foil is generally a
chalky marl, producing a clofe and clean turf, Hke an Engliih lawn of
the brightcft verdure f. Towards the interior are forcfts, crowned with
the blue fummits of the central ridge. What is called the Blue Moun-
tain Peak rifes 743 1 feet above the level of the fea : and the precipices
aie iiiterfperfed with beautiful favannas. There are about one hundred
rivulets, of which the Black River, running to the fouth, is the moft
confiderable. Some fulphureous and chalybeate fprings likewife occur.
It is faid that the Spaniards' worked mines of copper, if not filver ;
and one of lead has been recently difcovered. T'le Sread fruit tr^c,
with other ufeful plants, has been introduced bv the exe 'tif>"5 of Sir
Jofeph Banks, than which none can be more bene jcial; ''iiaoi'e worthy
of applaufe|. 4 '

PORTO RICO.

This iflc, which belongs to Spain, is about 120 B. miles in length,
by 40 in Ireadth. Its fize and confequence are well known to tlio
pofleflbrs, being a fertile, beautiful, and well watered country. The
chief trade is in fugar, ginger, cotton, hides ; with fome drugs, fruits,
and fweetmeats : and the noithern part is faid to contain mines of gold
and filver. Porto Rico was difcovered by Coldn in 1493 ; ^"^ ^^b fub«
jueated by Ponce de Leon, the firft explorer of Florida, about 1509.
The Spanifti voyagers and authors, whofe imagination magnified every

•Eawards, i. 214.

•f What is callrd the briik mouM contains fuch a mixture of clay simI fan^ u mtcht be
adsptcd to the kiln ; but the name has no coutiexioa with the colour, which » nazie.
Edwards, ii. 905. This is tlie bell foil for fugar canes next to the aihy loam of St. Chrif'.
tovhet'a ; and is followed by die deep i>lMk mould of Ikrbadtws.

I 8m Mr. JSilnordi's Hlfiei^ oi U)« Weft Ipdics, id edit. v. i. p. nr.

fcatum

WEST INDIES.

663

feature of the New World, reported the native population at 600,000 ;
while perhaps a real enumeration might have reduced them to 6O)O0O| if
nut to 20,000.

THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS.

This range extends from Tobago, in the fouth, to the Virgin iHandt'
in the north ; and inchides Barbadoes, which ftands rather detached to*
wards the eaft, being about thirty-five degrees from the African iilandt
of Cape Verd. The Caribbee iflands are of noted fertihty and commer-
cial advantage, the chief pofleflbrs being the Englift and French. Bar-
badoes, Antisua, St. Chriftopher's, St. Vincent, Dominica, Grenada,
Montferrat, Nevis, and the Virgin liles, are Britiih ; and Barbadoes is by
far the mod important, as it is fuppofed to contain 1 7,000 white inhabi-
tants ; while the others rarely exceed 2000. The French Caribbee
iflands are Martinique, Guadaloupe, St. Lucie, Tobago, and fomeiflets.
The Danes poflefs St. Croix, St. Thomas, and "^t. John, which belong
to the Virgin group ; while the Swedles hold St tholomev, and the

Dutch St. Eu(tatius. Of the whole group, B .does and Guadaloupe
appear to be the nioft important ; and the laft, including Grand Terre
and Baffe Terre, is the moft confiderable in fize, being about fixty B. miles
in length, by 25 in breadth. The Carribbec iflands in general were dif-
eovered by Colon, on his fecond voyage, when he vilited Dominica,
Guadaloupe and Antigua ; but they were negledled by the Spaniards,
eager in queft ot the gold of the larger iflands. Barbadoes is faid tcr
have been difcovered by the Poituguefe, who having made no fettlement,
it was feized by the Englifli in the reign of James I ; and the foundation
of Jauies Town, was laid in 1624. Though the ifle be only about twenty
miles in length, and thirteen in breadth, yet this early Englifli fettlement
has profpercd to a furprifmg degree, exporting about io,coo hhds. of
fugar, and 600 puncheons of rum, befldes cotton, ginger, &c.* Grenada,
and moft of the others, were orginally fettled by the French, towardii*
the middle of the feventeenth century. St. Chriftopher's was however a
vety early Briti(h fettlement. Antigua is alfo faid to have been planted
by the Englifli in 1632 ; while the French began to fend colonies to
Guadaloupe about 1630. The fubfequent ftruggles between the two
powers concerning thefevaluahle iflands would form too complex a nar-
rative for the prefent defign. They are generally plain and fertile : bting"
remarkably contratted with the banennefs of the Bahama group. In fom*
there are imall ranges of hills : and in Guadaloupe there appear to have
been many volcanoes, the noted Soujfriere being a kind of folfalara, of
vaft mafs of fulphur, emitting continual fmoke. Donitnica sdfo coiftinnt
feveral volcanoes. The produds and exports of all thefe ifles, art; fimilar,^
being fugar, rum, coffee, cacao, indigo, cotton, Sec.

Under this head may alfo be arranged the fmall grottp runtiihg'piftiillel
with the fliore of South America, of which CuraizaoalndBaenayTfr belong
to the Dutch, who import African flaves, whom they fell to tUe S'paniards'
on the continent.

Under this divifion may alfo be dafled the ifland of T^rimdid, recently
ceded by Spain to Great Britain. This ifland is about 60 B. iriilet'
in length, from N. to S., while the medial breadth niay b« alMttt 50.

* In a hurricane, 1 0th OAobcr 1 7 80, the black* and «Ait«s who petlfflii
M 49916, ana the danufe at l,a3«,564l. I5s. fterliug. £iwK^, i. 847.

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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WIUTILNY. 14SM

(7U)«71-4»03

4^ ^\ WrS

6i$4

THE AMP^ICAN ISLANDS, OR

Colon I»nded here in 1498/ when he difcovered the mouth of tho
Orinoco ; but t^e poflTeflion was neglefted till 1 535. 'Jl'he climate is faid
to be excellent, and remarkably free from hurricanes, which are dreadful
fcourges of the other American ifles *. Heavy rains preyail from the
|nidd|e of May till the end of Oftober ; and there are fo many rivers, that
the drynefs of the o^her half of the year is little regretted. Sometimes
jSight earthquakes are felt, but little dangerous. In the interior are four
groups of mountains, which, with fome other ridges tQw^rds the (hores,
fjre computed at a third part of the territory : the other two^thirds are
fai4 to confill of a mod fertile foil. The fouthern coait is yrell adapted
to the culture of coffee ; and on the weft is a large harbour, reputed very
fecure in all feafons. Here are the Spaniih fettlements, the largeft con-
twining only about eighty huts. The cocoa trees perifhed in 1 727, by the
force, as is faid, of the northern winds ; and any new plantations ough|;
of courfe to be protefted on that quarter by thick fences of foreft trees.
The total population of the ifle, according to a late furvey, is 17,7181
pf whom 10,009 are flaves.

THE BAHAMA, OR LUCAYOS ISLANDS.

These ifles, though very numerous, and fome of them of coniiderablQ
||ze, are little known. They are faid to have been totally deferted when,
in 1763, a few Engliflimen took pofTeflion of the ifland which they
called Providence f. But becoming a neft of pirates, a force was feiit from
l^ngland to fubdue them ; and a T|nall regular colony eftablifhed about
1720. The £ngh(h in the Bahama iflands are computed at three or four
thuufand ; half being fettled in Providence, where there is a fort calle4
Nafiau, and a fmall harbour. The few exports are cotton, dyeing woods.
live turtle, and fait. The foil feems to be naturally barren ; and the
narrow length of thefe ifles, much expofed to the heat and the winds,
accounts for their comparative infignihcance in i^-iiis grand commercial
archipelago.

The French fettlements of Guadaloupe «^nd Martinique were of con-
(iderable importance, thefe iflands being of larger fize than any others
of the Carribees. Guadaloupe is of a remarkable form, being divided
iato two pSrts by a narrow channel, only navigable by boats. The
vrell Known produds of thefe iflands are fugar, cotton, indigo, ginger,
and various fruits, Martinique is alfo celebrated for a aiftillery of
liqueurs, "^he tovyn of S(. rieire is about two miles in length, and half
a mile in breadth, being h^ndfumely built with ftone ; and Tome of the
(hops are as brilliant as any in London or Paris,

Martinique.] After a fefjdence of fome years in Martiniciue,
M. T|iibault df Chanvalon publiflicd an aorount of this ifland, chiefly
containing meteorological obfervations, iWinglet}* liowever, with other
authentic information. He obferves, that there are, in appearance,
only two feafons in the Weft Indies t what is called ihc wmter, pro-
nerly the rainy feafon, extending from the middle of July to the middle
SfOaober. '' ^

The j^rench iflands are in general confidered as divided into (wo
regional the eaftern part, expofed to the trade winds, behg called
Cabcftcrrc ; while the weftern, pr leeward, is termed Bafle-terrc.

• lUgfual, iv. les.

t lb. iv. 105.

Tlur:

WEST INDIES.

(W5

There 9re in !N|artinique only three mountains of confiderable height,
the higheft being that palled Peljfe in the weftem part of the ifl4nd} and
Rearing maqj marks of being an extin£t volcano. Vauclin, the next,
is of far in^rior elevation) and almoflb entirely covered with coffee
plantations. -The inferior chains branch out in all directions. Tha
lands in the neighbourhood of Mount ipelee feem, in the opinion of
pur author, to conliil chiefly of pumice, either in lumps or powder, a«-
are mod of thofe on the north and weft.' In riding over theie grounds,
they refound as if hollow, a circumftance \yhich alfo occurs \n the wide
yolcanic traAs of the Andes. In the fouth of the ifland the foil n
greatly variegated. The pumice lands foon imbibe the rain ; but where
there are woods, the climate becomes unhea^hy from the humidity ;
and in mpft climates the neighbourhood pf trees is pernicious to health<»

Quarries of f ee-ftpne are rare at Martinique, and blocks of lava
are u|cd. X*\me was made with the madrepores and fea ihells. No minei
had be; n difcovered, but a ferruginous fand, often a volcanic produdion,
had been obferved on the (hore ne^r Mount Pelee.

The cl^ief river feems to be that called the Gallon, in the north*
^aftern part of the ifland.

The inhabitants are whites, Caribs, and negroes, Our author'9
phara£ter of the former approaches to that of our Weft Indians,
renerally thoughtlefs, lively, precipitate, and felf-willed j but at the
fame time frank> brave, and generous.

Though the feat of the government be at Martinique, Guadaloupe
is the largeH and moft important of the French Caribbee iflands. In the
Hiftoire Geperah des Voyages^ Prevoft has given a minute account of
this ifland, which cannot, however, be mudi praifed for its accuracy.
It is divided into two portions in a very fingular m4nner by a fmall
arm of the fea running N. and S,, the portion on the N. E. being
called La Grande Terrtt and the other on the S. W. |he ^ajfe Tern%
but more generally Guadaloupe. On the weftern fliore, Labet
defcribes a fingular phenomenon, the fea being fo hot, at a fmall
didance fron^ (he fliore, as to boil evgs ; and on moving the fan4
a ftrong odour of fulphur is perceived. There is alfo a boiling foun-
tain, and a hot inarfli, the laft of whichis ver^ deceitful and dangeroui t9
jlrangers.

Jfiotan^ of the Weft Indict.

The Weft Indian iflands, from their trophical fituation, and thegrreat
height of their mountains, command a Urge extent of temperature, and
contain a proportional variety of native vegetables. We are far however
from poifefling a complete flora of thefe countries { a£tivity in fcentifio
refearch is hot very congenial either with the manners, or the commercial

adventurous naturalift.

Several of thofe giant fons of the foreft that were noticed in (he bo(any
of Indii grow wildln thefe iflands, and equal in ftatelinefs their oriental
brethren. Such are the Indian hg or banyan tree, at flrft a feeble ftem,
^wining for fupport round fomc neighbouring plant, but in the courfe of
years ^coming a grove by itfelf ) the wild cotton tree, the logwood 1

t7 W4

HI WIW" .

666

WEST INDIES;

and the locuft tree, mod grateful in thefe torrid ivgions by its night of
(hade. Scarcely inferior to thefe are the wide-fpieadinfr mahogany, the
brafiletto, and the cabbage palm, the talleft of all vegatables, rifing fame.
times in a ftraight majeftic column to theheiglitof nearly two hundred feet.
The tamarind tree is diitinjeruiihed for its airy elegance, and its acid pods',
of no mean eftimation in this fultry climate. The laurus chloroxylum, or
cog wood, is of high value in mill work ; and the iron wood, the Bar.
badoes cedar, and a fpecies of cordia, known in the Englifh iflands by
the name of Spanrfli elm, are in great requeft for durable fubftantial
timber.

The fruits of the Weft Indies are defervedly celebrated for their va.
riety and flavour ; the plantations in the mountainous diftrids yield the
apple, the peach, the hg, the grape, the pomegranate, the orange, asd
dl the other European fruits, while the more fultry parts abound in
native produAs that may well vie with, if they do not furpafs, thefe
a4opted ftrangers : the pine apple, the fapota or fapadilla, the avocato
pear, the cafliew nut, the cocoa nut, the pfidium or guava, the cnftard
apple, the papaw, the Hiaddock, and the granadilU; form the prin.
cipal.

The commercial produAs of thefe iflands are for the moft part procured
from cultivated and naturalized vegetables, which therefore can fcarcely
be admitted in an acount of their mdigenous plants. The vanilla how.
ever is found truly wild iu the woods of Jamaica and St. Domingo ; the
aloe, thottsH cultivated only at Barbadoes, grows fpontaneoufly on the
dry rocky Toils of Cuba, the Bahamas, and many other of the iflands;
the bixaorellana, from which is procured the Kpnotta, is common to the
Weft Indief, and all the hot parts of America ; and the fragrant pimento,
or all-fpice, is not only a genuine native, but even refufes to be propa-
gated by human care. Of all the beautiful fpecies of myrtle, the pimento
ir piftrhaps the moft beautiful, and from the eloquent pen of Bryan
Edwards it has received its merited praife ; it rifes in natural gioves on
the fide of the mountains that look toward the fea, to the neight of
twenty or thirty feet, and as no other ihiub willgrow beneath its
(hade, it dways affords a cool open walk, perfumed with the exquifite
fragrance of ita fnowy bloffoms, boating in loofe clufters on its deep
green foliage.

But few of the other indigenous vegetables of the Weft Indies are
likely to intereft the |;eneral reader ; of thefe the arborefcent ferns are

Eerhaps the moft ftrikiitg } while the Britifli ferns never exceed the
eight of three or four feet, and die to the ground at the approach of
winter, .thofe fpecies that enjoy the perpetual fummer of tncfe iflands
|lcr perennial plants; and the arboreicent polypody in particular,
throws up a trunk above twenty feet hi^^h, tarmmated by broad pinnated
leavesy which gives it exadly the habit fend general appearance of a
palm tree.

Thret plants remain to be mentioiied, namely, the guiaeum or lignum
vitst^ of which both the refin and the wood are ufcful, the (brmer in
iAedicine» the latter aa t material for pulleys and turnery ware ; win.
terana canella, whofe bark is introduced into the pharmaeopce'ia i ni
ci9cilon» Ctribb««» • congcMroui fpedea of the Penimn barki

lOUTH

iHH^H

B8 1

SB^Hi 1

i^i

Extent. — Ongl

Extent.

vinces of Vemg
America. But
the north, tl||e 1
«^° S. lat., and
length is at lea(1
as uready menti

OaiciNAii V
fiortion of the*
from Africa, w
receutlf difcld(
weft, could fcs
American (hore

Progressii
fynonymous wi
tne general vie^
fcuret wide re|
impenetrable fc
cifion can rarel;
and fmall fiud^
Spaniflimapsa
diffufed over S
h Cruz, Cam
KlhedbyMr.
grand divifion

Rbliqxon.
man Catholic,
few favage tri

CUMATB

beyond that
fn>fts I 9pi 1
almoft {jjerpd
Patagonia, a
■willow tree*
cHpatC;. Or
des Qonftituti
theories of »
zone Vcing e

ftlains f . N
jpring. {n

• Vm Nttc
(•me ftwn the i
th« point of ft
•r the Camric
eeftonof i)ws
ibe ctAwb Hm
/tflronnmiCBl '

( 667 )

SOUTH AMERICA.

Extent, •— Original Inbabitantt. — > Climate and- Seajhns* •— Lakes, «•

Rhtert, — Mountains.

EXTEKT.

THIS divifion of tT»e' nevtp continent extendis fouthward
front the mountainous boundary- betv^een the pro-
vinces of Veragua and Panama, the latter province belonging to S'outh
America. But the larfd afterwards afcending confiderably farther to
the north, tl^e length nlufl: be computed from about 12° of N. lat. to
if4° S. lat., and yet farther if the Terra del Fuego be comprifed. The
length is at leaft fixty-Hx degrees, or 2960 G. miles ; while the breadth^
as already mentioned, is about 239o G. miles. ,

Original PorirLATiON.] The original population of this large
fiortion of the earth remains obfcure, but may mod; probably have been
from Africa, where copper*coloured nations with long hair have been
recently difclofed. Thfe conftant trade winds, blowing from eaft to
weft, could fcarcely fail to impel fome ralh ^African mariners to the
American ftiores*.

PaoGRBssivft^ GEOGRAPHY.J The progreffive geography is here
fynonymous with the varioua dtfcoveriea which have been indicated in
toe general view of America. Many parts of the interior are ft ill ob-
fcure t Vride regions on the great river of Amazons being covered with
impenetrable forefts, and others flooded by the inundations, fo that pre*
ciilon can rarely be attained. In the fouth there are vaft faline plains,
and fmall fandy deferts, e(^uany adverfe to geographical certainty. The
Spanifli maps are likewife of noted inaccuracy. But great light has been
diffufed over South America by the recent large map of Don Juan de
la Cruz, Cano, y Olmedilla, geographer to the king 1775, repub-
lilhed by Mr. Faden 1799. So recent is any exadt ddineation of thit
grand divifion of the New World!

Rbliqxon.] The religion of South America is in general the Ro-
man Catholic, with the exception of the fmall Dutch territory, and a
few favage tribes.

Climats and sfiASONs.3 The fouthcm extremity, extending far
beyond that of Africa, is expofed to all the horrors of the antardic
frofts ; »pi Terra del Fuego in the S. lat. of 55° feems expofed to the
almoft peipctual winter of Greenland in N, fat. ;:>''. Tehuelia, or
Patagonia, confifting moftly of open deferts and fav; ntua, with a few
•willow tree* on the rivers, fecms to enjoy a temperate but Ather cool
clipnate;. On proceeding towards the north, the great chain of the An-
des Qonftitutes real zones and diinates, which ftraqgely contradi£fc the
theones of f ncient geographers ; the chief iuconvenienciet of cbe torrid
zone being extreme cpld on the mountains, and extreme moifture in the

J>lains f . Near Callao the nv>nths of 0<^ober and N«>vember form the
pring. In Peru what ia called fummcr it the dry fcufon, often ex-

• Hm Nttch«s of nbriJa fram to ftrengdien this tbmrf, 1^ thsir tndUion that thsy
came fimn the rifing^uji, or the csft, tbst the vojnge was knig, wnd thsir aneefton on
tht: nrint of periflihiK wb«i thtj dUcovercd Aineriou Du Pimi, ii. SlI^ The nttim
of the Camriet are ftid to hara been extfemciy tall, and may P^ihsfi hiiM been the aa-
eefton of ijui Tehuels, called by KumpanM Patagoiiians, who alwagpa ban their dead on
ihe eaAerh fliom, a» loolttng Soarards the coontiy of msir anceflon. Bat th* CWiidi
/UlroiMknical voyage, 1778, 4to. -torn. 1. and Falknar'a Pata({onla.

t tHoa, AiCjaoim Fbilofiiphi^tteti Viri$, It tip two von, Svo. u 99,

^ UtTRtHf

668

SOUTH AMERICA.

tremely cold ; and the rainy feafon is called winter. The former begins
in May, which is nearly the beginning of winter in the lower parts, and
continues till November, when the flight fogs, called winter in the vales,
]}e^in to difperfe. On the mountains, winter begins in December,
^which in the plains is the firft month of fummer ; and a journey of four
hours conduds the traveller from one feafon to another.

In general the confined regions on the weft of the Andes are dry, the
5:louds being arrefted by their fummits ; while the wide countries on the
^aft of that chain are expofed to torrents of rain, from the eaftern or trade
^inds blowing over the Atlantic. In Brazil the rainy feafon begins
in March or April, and ends in Auguft, when the fpring begins, or
rather the fummer j the diftin^ion being only between wet and dry
^eafons *.

Lakes.]] South America can fc^rcely boaft of any inland fea ; bu(
the great river of Amazons, and that of lla Plata, may be faid to fupply
this deficiency; and if numeroufly peopled by induftrious inhabitants,
there would be no room to complain of the want of inland navigation
jthroughout the greater part of this ample portion of the earth. The
gulfs on the S. W. extremity containing the ifles of Chiloe, St. Martin,
&c. are of fmall confequence, and in a remote and difadvantageous po,
iition. No part of the globe difplays fo great a number of lakes as
ijSforth Amenca ; and the fouthern part of the new continent is perhaps
equally remarkable by their rarity. Many fuppofed lakes, as that of
^arayos or Sharayos, in the courfe of the river Paraguay, only exift
during the annual inundations, which are on a far grander fcale than
t;hofe of the Ganges, and may be faid to deluge whole province's. In
ithe moft northern part the Lagoon of Maracaybo is remarkable, being
fi circular bafon about ico B. miles in diameter, receiving numerous
livers and rivulets, and communicating with the fea by a confiderable
creek. The celebrated lake Parima, called alfo Paranapitinca, or thp
White Sea, is reprefented by La Cruz as more than ic6 B. miles in
length by 50 in breadth. This fize, and even its exiftence, have been
doubted, as it was the noted feat of the city £1 Dorado, the ilreets of
^hieh were paved with gold ; a fable which feems to have arifen from
a rock of talc refleftine, like a mirror, the golden rays of the fun. Ac-
cording to La Cruz, this lake receives the Orinoco on the N. W., which
afterwards emerges, and purfuea a wefterly courfe, till it finally bend
n«rth and eaft. The Parima alfo gives fource to the great river of the
fame name, likewife called the Rio Blanco, which joins the river NegrO|
and great river of Amazons. In this part of South America there is,
as it w^re, a conteft betwixt land and water : and fo level and mutable
is the foil, that the rivers feem dubious what courfe to purfuc* as thev
jlow in every diref^ion, and branches of the Qrinoco comfnuniqate mi\
the tributary rivers of the immenfe Maranon.

In Amazonia and Brazil there do not appear to be any lakes of confe.
quence ; but the Poituguefe are inferior even to the Spaniards in ^eogra*
phy and natural hiftory, and manydificoyeries remain t« be made in thejr
ample poffeffions. The lake of Titicaca, nearly in the fame parallel, an4
hk the kingdom of Peru, is regarded as the moil important in South Ame-
riea. Ulloa fays that it is of an oval figure, the circumference about
940 miles I and the depth 70 or 80 fathoms. It receives ten or twelve
rivers and fevera) rivulets; but the water, though not faline, is naufeous,
|>ein^ probably tainted yrith fulphur or bitumen. |t contains two kiai^

Fjfo^ Ii}>, i.

SOtJTH AMERICA*.

€6^

of tittit and is frequented by eeefe and wild fowl. In an ijte of this lake
Mango Capacy the founder of the Peruvian monarchy, reported that the
fun, nia father* had placed him, with his filler and confortf Oello ; and
here a temple was dedirnted to the fun, the moft fplendid in the king^
dom» and profufely decorated with plates of gold and fiher. On the
Spanifli invafioa thefe treafures are laid to have been thrown into the
lake *. - ^

,A few fmall lakes are found near the courfe of the river Parana ; and
there are two large lagoons on the eaftern coaft, lat. 3 1*' 33'. Towards
the S. of Chili there are fome lakes of confiderable fize, communicating
with the river of Sauzes, or Willows, one of them being called the lake
of the Tehuels : and a few fmall lakes farther to the S« are faline, a wide
extent of territory being impregnated with nitre.

Rive as. 3 The river of Amaxons, fo called from a female tribe inured
to arms difcevered on its banks, by the iirft navigators, but more proper-
ly by a native term the Maranon, is celebrated as the mod diftinguifhed
river, not only in South America, but in the whole world : and this re<<

fmtation is no doubt juft, when its magnitude is confidered, as well as its
ength : for in the latter attribute it feems to be rivalled by the Kian Ku
of Cliina, and perhaps by the Ob of Siberian The length may be efti-*
mated at about 2300 miles ; and that of the Rio de la Plata about iooo«
but the eftuary of the Ob is frozen, and that of the Kian Ku cannot ex«
ceed a mile or two in breadth, while the two grand American rivers are
of furpriiing magnitude. The Chinefe annals fay that their great rivers
have been confined by art, while in ancient times they inundated whole
provinces, like the Maranon.

The voyage of Condamine contains the moft accurate defcription which
has yet appeared of this grand river f . The fource is not yet abfolutely
afcertained. The celebrated mathematician, juft quoted, fays that the
Ucaial is the chief ftream, as its fources are more remote than thofe of the
fuppofed Maranon ; and it is a confiderable river in the fame parallel^
when the other is only a torrent:]:. On the other hand, the Maranon
makes a greater circuit, and is of extraordinary depth. In the valuable
map of La Cruz, what he calls the ancient Maranon, or Pari, receives the
Apurimac, a river of far longer courfe, rifing near the town of Arequi-
pa, on the weft of the great lake of Titicaca, S. lat. 16° 30'. If this re-
prefentation be juft, there is no doubt that the Apurimac is the original
and proper river of Amazons. The new Maranon, according to Lai
Cruz, rifes from the lake of Lauricocha, near the fource of tne Pari,
and after a long courfe to the N. W. and then £. falls into this latter
river.

The Ucaial, thus confifting of two main fources, the old Maranon or
Pari, and the Apurimac, after paifing the great chain of the Andes,
bends fometimes N. W. fometimes N. £. till it receive the New Maranon.
But the courfe of the Ucaial being through a more remote country, and
more unexplored forefts than that of the New Maranon, its chief features
and natural hiftory are lefs known ; and the favages on its banks un-
fortunately maflfacred their miffionary in 1695, fo that we are almoft wholly
ignorant concerning this noble river.

On the contrary, the Lauricocha or New Maranon has been repeatedly
defcribed, and was navigated by Condamine from near the town of Jaen,

* Ulloi, ii. Ifta, or torn. i. 534. of the French tnnflation.

t Relation sbr^ d'uii Voji^ (sit daiw rinterteur dc r.^mejique Meridionale, Ptric,
174s, Svo.
J. P, 99.

where

670

SOUTH AMERICA.

where it begins to be navigable ; thfnce paffing N. E., h arrives at t!i« •«
tenor ndge oi the Andes, which it deaves at a pafs called the Pun^o a
wor<l in the Peruvian language implying a gate. ThisfubUme fcene dif-
plays the Launcocha cantoned between two parallel walls of aJmoft ner
pendicular rock. From a breadth of ^50 fathoms, the river is here con"
traded io 25; but the rapidity is not extreme, and a raft paffes the two
leagues in about an hour.

• After the junaion of thefe two great rivers, the Maranon, befides
fmaller Itreams, receives from the north the Nap©, the Parana, Yupuro
the Great Negro which has received the Parima ; and from the fouth
the Cuchivara or Araxa, and the prodrgions dream called Madera, con-
filling of the Bene, the Mamore, and the Ytenas, the chief four'ces of
which are from the eaftem fide of the Andes, watering a vaft extent of
this wide continent. The Madera may indeed be regarded as anothrr
grand fource of the river of Amazons: which is alfo joined from the
fouth by the Topaifa and Shingu, while its* eftuary is connefted with
the great Brazilian river called Tooantinas. Like the Miflbnri and St.
Lawrence, the Maranon is difcoloured with mud. The breadth at the
Portuguefe boundary is faid to be a league, but it is generally about
two miles; and no bottom is round at 103 fathoms. TheeiFeft of the
tides is perceivable to the diftance of 600 miles. The banks are
generally crowned with vaft forefts of lofty trees, among which are
many of a rare and medicinal nature. Serpents of prodigious fize are
found in the marfhes, and alligators are alfo commwn. It fcems certain
from Condamine, t1iat fome female warriors ftill exift towards the north
of this great river. After it has received the Sliingu, the breadth
from fhore to ftiore cannot be difcovered by the eye. Near its mouth
the bore rifes from twelve to tifteen feet in height ; and the noife of
this irruption is heard at the diftance of two leagues *.

The Rio de la Plata, or river of Silver, is the conjund flood of the
Paraguay, the Pilcomayo, the Parana, and the Urucuay. The main
flreanis are the Paraguay and the Parana ; and it would fecm that the
latter is the longeft and moft confide rable, rifing in the great mine moun.
tains of Brazil, lat. ig"^ ; and bending S. then W. till it receive the Iba
Parana, after which it bends S. W. till it is joined by the Paraguay,
while the coniunft rivers are ftill called the Parana by the natives^ and
the Rio de la Plata by the Spaniards. The grand catarafl of the
Parana is in lat. 24*, not far from the city of Cuayra ; but is rather
a feries of rapids, for a fpace of twelve leagues, amidft rocks of tre-
mendous and fii)gu1ar forms f. This noble river is alfo ftudded with
numerous iflands ; ar.d Spanifh veffels navigate to the town of AlTump-
tion, about 400 leagues from the fca. On the (hores ai-e often found
goods inclofing cryltals ; but the natural hiftery of the Parana is
nearly as obfcure as that of the Ucaial. The breadth of the eftuary
18 fuch that tlie land cannot be difcovered from a fliip in the middle of
the ftream.

The third great river in South America is the Orinoco, of a moft
fingular and perplexed cour£e. According to La Cru% it ritn in the
fmall lake of Ipava, N. lat. 5° 5' ; and thence winds idmoft in a fpiral
form ; firR pauing to the S. £. it enters the lake of Parimi} and ifiucs

* This effe& ca\M porenca it chiefly obfenrable towanb the cape del Norte oa the
oaoiith of the Arowary. CniKifniiDe,p. 199.

t DotniihofFer, i. 906. Thi* autliur, p. ISf . leenw riglttiv to afltrt that (he I'toam is
thi; chief ftream, which receive* the I^raguay and Urucuaj. I he inundaiioni we cbiriy
in December and Jaouory, rifing about five at fix yank above the iflets. Falkncr, p. S6.

8t by

SOUTH AMERICA.

67J

\iY two outlets on the N. and S. of that lake towards the W., but after
receiving the Guaviari, it bends N. then N. £. till it enter the Atlantic
Ocean by an extended delta oppofite to the ifle of Trinidad ; but the
chief eiluary, is conHderably to the S.. £. of that iiland. Many rivers
of great fize flow into the Orinoco ; and in addition to its fingular form
;here are other remarkable peculiarities. From the S. £. of the lake
of Parima, which feems to be a kind of inundation formed by the
Orinoco, the White River, called alfo that of Parima, joins the Black
River, and thence, the great flood of the Maranon. Another itream,
the Siaba, flows from the S. W. of the lake into the Black River and
joins another ftream, which direAly canneAs the Maranon with the
Orinoco. There is alfo a communication between the Black River and
the Maranon, by the Joa Parana- Hence there are three communica-
tions between thefe great rivers ; a circumdance fo uncommon, that
when one of thefe communications only had been aflerted by Spanifli
authors, it was reje£ked by geographical theories as contrary to the
ufual courfe of nature, and Condamine was obliged to enter into a
formal difquifition in order to re>eiUbliih it. A route laid down by
La Cruz, that of Solano Governor of Caracas, feems to confirm the
authenticity of his intelligence concerning the environs of the lake of
Parima ; and little doubt can remain concerning thefe wonderful inland
navigations, thus prepared by the hand of nature, and which, in the
pofTefiiou of an indullrious people, would render Guiana, or New
Andalufla, one of the moil flourifliing countries in the world.

The other rivers of South America ;}re comparatively of fmall account,
the chief being the Magdalena, running N. to the Caribbean fea ; and
that of St. Francis which waters a gi^at part of Brazil. To the S.
of the great Parana there is the river Mcndoza, and the Rio de los
Sauzes, or river of Willows ; followed in the fartheil fouth by the
Chulclau and the Gallegos, the lad entering the Pacific oppoAte to the
Malouin or Falkland iflands.

Mountains.]] The mountains of South America conftitute fome
of the granded objf £ls in natural geography, being not only the moft
lofty on the face of the globe, but intermixed with volcanoes of the
moft fublime and terrific defcriptiun. The extent is alfo prodigious,
the Andes ftretching in one line from the capes of Ifidro and Pilares,
in the fouthern extremity of the continent, to the weft ftde of the gulf
of Darien, a fpace of not leh than 4600 miles, as they generally foffow
the windings of the coaft, at the medial dldance of about one hundred
miles. The chief fummits are near the equator, not far from the city of
Quito. The beft account of thefe celebrated mountains feems to be
that given by Bouguer, one of the Frenph mathematicians, who in
I735<«-I743, meafured a degree near the equator, and who has pub-
liflied two views of their appearance near Quito *. Chiml)orazo, the
higheft of thefe mountains, about 100 B. miles to the S. of Quito*
and about ten miles to the N* of Riobamba, wa9 computed by thefe
mathematicians to be 3317 French toifes above the level of the fea, or
20.380 feet : about 5000 feet, or one quarter higher than Mont filanc.
That part of Chimborazo which is covered with perpetual fnow is
about 3400 feet from the fummit. But thefe mouatains are elevated on
the high plain of Quito, which conftitutes more than one third of the
computed height t fo that confldered as mere excrefcences from the
Tand, they ftiU yield to Mout Blanc.

• TigOK it laTerre, Pads, 17«9, «to.

The

Ipli

^m',^f

'"-» ^.u

€7%

gotftri AivfEkicA.

The hexi in height is fuppofed to be" the volcano called Cotopacfi^
eftiraated at about j 8,606 feet, and fitu4ted about tv^enty five miks td
the S. E. of Quito. Other grand fummits are I^achincba, a few mileS
to the N. E. of Quito, the Akar, and Sanga to the S. E. of Chim-
borazo. In general the Andes here proceed in a dduble chain^the interl
val being the plain of Quito : to the \(^eftern ridge belong Pichinchai
Ilinifla, Chimborazo, ftc, while the eaftern is Crovt^ned by Cotopacfi
the Altar, Sanga, &c. ; and this form continues at leaft for about coo
miles from the fouth of Cuenia to the north of l^opayan *. Mineralogy
was at that time an unknown fcience i and Bouguer only informs u|
that the bottom is clay, and the fummit a mrifs of ftones ! The
American Alps, clothed with perpetual fnow^ ejftend a great diilance
farther to thd north towards the junftion of the Clauca ind Magdalena ;
but about two degrtes to the N» of the et}uator they are not above one
quarter the height < Farther to the fouth they alfo gteitly decreafe irt
elevation.

According to the accoiint of Humboldt, a Pruffian naturalilt, who'
has lately vifited a confiderable part of South America f , there are
thrte other remarkable chains of mountains which proceed from weft
to eaft parallel to the equctor } and which by theit- height deferve the
attention of naturalifts, as much as the Carpathian fhountains^ or the
Pyrenees, though it has been fuppofed that, on the eaft of the Andes,
immenfe plains extend to the fhores of Guiana and Brazil, and even tu
Buenos Ayres and Patagonia.

i. That of tlie northetn coaft, between nine and ten degrees of north
latitude.

2. That of Patlma^ or the chain of the catarafts of OrinocD, from three
to feven degrees N. lat if.

3. The chain of Chiquitos, between 15° and 20^ of S. latitude.
"The moft northern, or that of the coaft of Venezuela, is the moft

lofty, but the narrowcft. From the high plain of Quito the great
chain of the Andes extends, by Popayan and Chocb, on the weft of
the river Atrato, towards the Ifthmus, where on the banks of the
Chagree, it only forms mountainous land about i ioo feet high. Froni
the lame Andes proceed feveral branches, one called the Siefra de Abibe
towards the province of St. Marta §. This chain of the coaft is reftrift-
ed, as it approaches the gulf of Mexico^ and cape of Vela, and after.*
vrards nns due eaft towards the mountain df Paria, or even to the ifle
of Trinidad. The ereateft height is in the two Sierras Nevadas of
St. Nfarta, and of Merid«||. The llrft being near 5000 varas or
Spanifl) yards, and the fecond 5400 varas, about 14,000 feet Engliih,
above thie fea. Several mountains of this chain are perhaps equal in
height to Mont Blanc { perpetually covered with fnow, and often
pouring from their fides ttreams ot boiling fulphureous ^ater : and
the higheft peaks are folitary amidft mountains of little height, that
of Merida it near the plain of Caracas* which is only x6o feet above
the fea.

* fiooguw, xmtil.

t Jouraal tie MijrfiqiM, Meffidor ix. Jaly Ifioi.

X Tkcfe cfttuvfl* arc K Maypure and Aturaa, N. lat. 6. in tiM map of La Crua t the
Spanifli term fur a cataraA being rauilal, which rather iiE|tlin a rafi4.

t Tht moantaint ol St. Maru are cuvered with Dtuw and vinble from t&e fea. Ultut
lib. i. c. i.

U Our author's latitadet ito not carrtfpon^ with the u»f 6t La Cm, who givei the
Nevada of Mtrida betweta l«l. I * and 9*.

The

SOUTH AMERICA.

The general height of the chain of the coaft is from 6 to 806 toifes,
with the exception of the high peaks, but lowering towards the calt.
The fecondary inountairs however to the S. of this chain, confiding of
limeftone and calcareous fandilone, increafein height, towards the eaiierti
point of the continent. The chain of the coaft is more ileep towards the
north than the fouth : and there is a dreadful perpendicular precipice of
1300 toifes in the Silla de Caracas, above Caravellede, the northern ^^rt
of this chain being, perhaps broken by the eulf of Mexico.

The fecond chain, that of Parima, or ofthe cataracts of Orinoco, it
little known, and was fcarcely efteemed pafTable till within thefe thirty
years. This chain leaves the Andes near Popayan, and (tretching from
weft to eaft, from the fources ofthe Guiaviari, appears to extend to the
N. E. of that river, forming the catara^s of Maypura and Atures in the
Orinoco, lat. 5*^, which are truly dreadful, but prefent the only paflags
yet opened towards the vale of Amazons. Thence this chain fcems to
continue ite courfe N. £. to the river Caronis, the breadth being fome-
times not lefs than 120 leagues. Farther to the eaft this range becomes
ftill wider, d'fcending fouth along the Mao, where the Dutch flyle t
part of it Dorado, or the mountain of gold, being compofed of bright
micaceous fchiftus, which has given a hke rd^utation to a fmall ifle in
the lake of Parima. To the eait of the Efquibo this ran^e takes a S.£.
direfUon, and joins the granitic mountains of Guiana, which give fource
to the river of Surinam, and others. This wide raitge is inhabited by a
number of favage tribes, little or not at all known in Europe. No where
does it feem to rife to an equal htight with the northern range of the
coall ;'the mountain of Duida, not &r from Efmeralda, is reputed the

above thcfea:
towards the
covered with

Ealm trees and ananas. Towards the eaft the chain feems to expire iu
token rocks { but there is no appearance throughout of any fecondary
ilrata, the rocks being granitei gueifs, micaceous fchiftus, and horablend«
llate. ...

The third chain of primitive mountains, or that of Chiquitos, is only
known to our author bvtheaccountsof thofewho have pafled the Pampas.
It unites the Andes ot Peru and Chili with the mountains of Brazil and
Paraguay, ftretching from La Paz and Potofi and Tucuman through the
provinces of Moxos, Chiquitos, and Chaco* towards the government of
the mines, and of St. Paul in Brazil. The higheft fummiu appear to be
between 15° and 20° ; the rivers there palfing to that of Amazons, or
that of La Plata.

Between thefe three great ridges are* according to the author already
mentioned, three immenfc valleys, that of Orinoco, that of th^ river of
Amazons, and that of the Pampas of Buenos Ayres, from 19° to 52° S,
lat, all opening to the eaft, but (hut on the weft by the Andes. The
middle valley, or that of the Amazons, is covered with forefts fo thick*
that the rivers alone farm roads ; while thofe of Orinoco and Pampas
are favannas, or grafTy plains, with a few fcattered palms ; and (o level*
that fometimes for 800 fquarc leagues there is no inequality abore eiffhc
or ten inches in height. In the northern plain, the primitive rod is
covered with limeftone, gypfum, and freeftonet while in that of Amazons
the granite every where n£es to the day. The general inclination is to
the a. W. PetrifaAions are uncommon even in the Andes, where them
•re fometimes patches of gypfum and fecondary limeftone ; while the
range of PaiiiM coufifti entirely of gnmite and other primitive rocki.

Xk fivt

\"m

f74

SPANISH DOMINIONS

But in a calcareous freeftoue of the northern ridgea of the coaft, Hum*
boldt found vaft numbers of fhella, feemingly of recent petrifaftion, as
they are thofe of the fea now nine leagues diftant.

A practical German mineralogift, employed for fome years in the
mines of Peru *, informs us that the eailern fpurs of the Andes fome.
limes prefent red and green granitet and gneifs, as towards Cordova and
Tucuman : but the grand chain chiefly confifts of argillaceous fchiftus,
or various kinds of thick ilatCf on which» in many places, are incumbent
ftrata of limeftone, and large mafles of ferruginous fandftone. Amid
the argillaceous fchiftus,the metals fometimes occur in veins of quartz,
fometimes in alluvial layers of fandftone and iron fand. Near Potofi are
irregular beds of large bullets of granite ; and the celebrated mountain, (b
rich in filver ore, is chiefly compofed of a firm yellow argillaceous flate,
full of veins of ferruginous quartz, in which uime of the beft ores are
found. In pafling the highelt ridge of the Andes, between Potofi and
Lima, Helms (till found argillaceous fchiflus the predominant fubftancc,
in fome places a $ered with alluvial layers of marl, gypfum^ limeftone,
fand, fragments of porphyry, and even rock fait ; yet rich filver occurs
in abundance.

SPANISH DOMINIONS .

SOUTH ^MERJCJ.

THE Spanlfli dominions in South America, themfolves an empire,
are divided into three viccroyalties. La Plata, Peru, and Nevr
Granada. The inferior governments are that of Caracas, which from
its pofition may be defcnbed in a fupplement to N«w Granada ; and
Chili, itfelf a fettlement of no fmall importance. The work of Eftalla
fupplies materials fufficiently ample for a recent dcfcription of thcfc
important colonies, and (hall be ufed as the chief fpundationitbe accounts
in other worki being often antiquated and erroneous.

CHAPTER I.

THl TtCIROYALTV OF LA tLATA» OR tVtMOl ATRII.

F.Mtent* —> Provmen* •— Gowmnmit, -— Rennnwt of Spanj/h JtmerUa.
' _ PepuiattM, — Manntn, — Citiet end Tvnvnt. — Commirtt, —
Ifahiral Gto^raphy*

THIS grand viecroyalty, though ereAed fo Ittcly at 177?, is not
only tM oioft inponant of aU the divifioai» but that by which

• IWtbMh dncr K«lfe, lie. A Jownal of a JMmtv thsMgh Fm, ftom Thmot
Anss, oatbt MM rffrr Ls Ftels, hj Poiofi tn Lima, tht nptisl «r tht Idttftdom of
I'tru. Bf Aaib«v 2asbsita* i^nitm, taj^ S^nUh diicAot nf ituoss, ifo. yp. m.

DrefiUti, I7ft* . ,

tbe

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

675

the chief opulence of the Spanifti dominions in South America paflVa
to the parent country, and is interwoven with the commerce and in-
terefts of Europe. Including thu favase Chiquitos and Mojos in the *
north, and extending to the fouthern limits of Tuyu and the wide plains
called the Pampas, its length from the chain of Vilcanota to near the
Hver Negro may be affumed from 14° S. lat. to near 38% that is 24
degrees or 1440 g. miles. The breadth, which is generally pretty equal,
may be tomputed at 1 2 degrees, or 720 g. miles. Eilalla computes tlie
extent at ioeo Spanifh, or rather American leagues, (but feems vaguely
to include Chili), and the greateft breadth at 350, forming a triangle
of a thoufand leagues in height, on a bafe of 350, equal to 175.000
fquare leagues ; which might, he adds, fupport 50,000,000 perlibns,
while there is in fad fcarcely one million of civilized inhabitants, and a
handful of favages.

Provinces.] Before the ere£lion of this viceroyalty moft of the
jurifdiAion belonged to that of Peru, although the thuee provinces of
Buenos Ayres, Paraguay and Tucuman were confidered as CapUanlas
Generales, that is the govenors had an authority independent of the
viceroys of Peru, except in inftances of great importance and difficulty.
I'he part of Peru now annexed to La Plata Wtis divided into well k lown
provinces ordiftrids; and the millions of the ChiO"it,s, Mujos, and
Guaranis formed three diftind^ governments.

When this new viceroyalty was proclaimed, the form of government
remained the fame, the title alone being changed. The ordinance of
his catholic majefty for the fubdivifion of the viceroyalty was ifFued
in 178*2, and appomted nine intendancies. But in a geographical
defcription an enumeration of the principal provinces will be the cleared
method, and the progrefs (hall be made from the foutb.

I Pampat

16 Plata

2 Tuyu

1 7 Santa Cruz de la Sierra

3 BuetiM Ayret

4 Cordova

18 Chayanla

19 Oruro and Popla

5 Cuyo and Mendoza

6 Charcas

7 (juaranla

20 Carangat

21 Pacajet

22 La Paz

8 Paraguay

9 Gha<o

10 Salt a

11 Jujuy

12 Chichas andTafija

23 Cochabamla

24 Sicajica

25 Laricaja and Oma/uyot,

26 Chucuito

27 Puno or Paucarcola

13 Llpes

14 Ataeama

15 Potofi or Porco

28 Lampa

29 A/angaro

30 Carabaya, the laft province

•f La Plata on the N. of the great lake of Titicaca, and divided as
already mentioned from the Peruvian province of Canes and Canthes by
the grand chain of the Cordillera called Vilcanota.

In the obfcurity of the geography of the Spaniih dominions, it may
not be unufeful to offer fume remarks on particular provinces, a plan
which would in other cafes more ftriAly belong to choroffraphy.

EAalla has given brief defcriptiona of what he calls the upper and
inferior parts m the viceroyalty. The former is peculiarly rich in the
precious metals, only yielding to Mexico in this refped : he fpecially
mentions the Cordillera of Lipes; and to Porco belong the celtbrated
mines of Potofi. The metals of Oruro and Paria are alfo celebrated.
The provincea moft rich i« gold are Laricaja andCarabaya ; while ihofe

X X a . that

( '

.*■•■•- : I.

S!»AN1SH liOMmiON^

that produce the greateft quantity of filver are Lampa, Puno, Chucuifo^
Oruro» ChayanUy and Chichat, not to mention the celebrated Potofi.
Carangas aud Pacajes are celebrated for the breed of pacos, which are
vfed as beafts of burden. Lampa and Afangaro are noted for the
produce of wool, the flieep in the former being eftimated at near a
antllion. Thefe dtftriAa with Chuctiito alfu rear cattle and horfes. In
the provinces of Salts and Jujuy, ^mule* form a prodigious article of
tnae, fuppofed to yield 200,000 dollars annually. Cochabamba pro.
duces abundance of wheat and maize, fo as to fupply Oruro, La Paz
and other upland provinces. Santa Cruz, de la Sierra, which rankl
among the warm regions beneath the chain of mountains, trades in
koncy, fugar and bees.

In the Tower p?irt of the viceroyahy, Eftalla obfenres, that the pro-
vince of Buenos Ayres comprehends three other cities, befides the
capital* namely Montevideo, Corrientes, and Santa Fe. The chief
produ^ of this province are beeves and mules. Cordova is chiefiy
celebrated for woollen manofii^kories, being feated on the eaftern fide
c»f a ffrand and ki^h branch of the Andes. Mendoza, formerly a town
of CoiK, aUb adjoins to the mountains. The rivers in thefe parts are
moftly torrents wnich fwell with the rains, but at other times they are
left nearly dry. Several are loft in lakes and marfhes, in the wide pliiin»
of Chaco.

The name of Tacuman, accovding to onr author, is fupcrannuated,
and that town is now in the intenauicy of Salta. The province of
Cuyo Uea amtdft the mountains which extend from the great chain
towards Cordova, but there arc many fertile valleys ; being feparated
from Chili by the Andes, the admintftration is annexed to that of
Cordova* Cuyo produces in great abundance grapes, figs, pears,
apples* and moft kinds of European fruits, which form the chief
articles of its trade. Wines, brandy, and dried fruits are alfo carried
to Buenos Ayres, Cordova, and other parts of the four intendancies.
The wines differ confiderably from thofe of Eyrope, but are preferred
for daily ufe. It is faid that Mendoza and San Juan de la Froutcra
have exported in one year more than ao,ooo barrels of wine, which
brought 300,C00 dollars. Thefe with the brandies therefore form a
conuderable property. The mountains of Cuyo and Rioja alfo abound
in metals ; but the pafles being more difBcult than that of Mendo/a,
there it no inducement to work them *. In the northern part of the
fame chain, are many flocks of the vicunas, whofc wool is fometimes
wrought in the countnr, but chiefly fent to Europe, where it is cclc.
brated as the firft of all in broad cloths, uniting the glofs of filk, with
the firmnefs and warmth of woolten, while the native fawn<oIour can
fcarcely be exceeded in beauty.

Tht villages of the Guaranis, which compofe a government called
that oi tht Miffions, amount to thirtTt from the nver Tebiquari in
Paraguay to the frontiers of Bueaoi Ayres, being moftly to the £.
of the nver Parana ; the eaftern borders of the Guaranis extend along
Brasil, while on the W. they border op FMraguay, Corrientes, and
SanuFe.

The fpraod and fertile province of Paraguay hat not been defcribed
by Eftaua, but tke dcfcft may eafily be fuppUed by the exceflent work
of Dobriaboffer f . Though this province produces none of the preci*

OttI

• Mciidon dram gifittwirid)fi«BS the |ivs4%ioiis mine of Vfbsbuu SceChllt.

f UiHttriM it Abifonittu, Visaa*, l7l«j tvIs. 010, Tkt Uralj fingubritj of thi

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

€rf

<m8 metals, it is one of the moft opulent in the new viceroyalty, from
its vegetable produdion«| and from the prodigious herds cf hotfes, mules*
cattle, and (heep, which enliveo its e&tenlive plains. The northern parti
of Paraguay have however been little explooed, as the fettlements of the
Jefuits were chiefly in the fouthern wirts* and among the adjacent
Abipons and Guaranis.

The- Pampas, or vaft plaiM of Buenos Ayrea, extend from the fea
coaft on the £. to that great chain which forms the beginning of the
Cordillera of Chili, about (40 leagues W. from thecity of Bueitot
Ayres. Towards the S. they ft'retch about I03 leagues to 9. chain
proceeding W. N. W. from the Atlantic. The northera boundaries
are not diftin6%ly known, but the name of Pampas is chiefly applied to
the territory on the S. of Buenos Ayfes, Cordova, and Mendoza*
Thefe vaft plains, like the ftepps of Ruffia, having fcarcely any eleva*
tions, the view, as at fea, is terminated by the horizon* They are only
diverfiiied with paths and ditches, which colled the rain waters, and
which commonly end in lakes, as there is no declivity ; yet there are
wide tracks in which no water is found, nor is that element pure, and
trees are extremely rare, except a few fhrub] round the lakes. Hence
this region is only inhabited by a few wandering favages. The foil it
generally a black earth, but of little depth, and is followed by a kind
of coarfe white chalk, fo that it is difficult to form wells, as the water
can fcarcely pafs fo tenacious a fubllance. The chief pafturage is
clover, and in the bed parts, (ometimes fo ftroiig as to impede the
ftep of a horfe ; it is much liked by the cattle, who, when there is
water, multiply prodigioufly in the Pampas. The favages, who roam
through HxeCe deferts, fometimes furprife Spaniih caravans, and fmall
fettlements.

The province formerly called Tucuman, now divided into thofe of
Salta and Cordova, forms an interefting part of the new viceroyalty,
which Eftalla has defcribed nt fome lenuto : though, being inland, it
had rather efcaped obfervgition *. Thete provinces arc well watered,
and in fome places produce wild cochineal : but it would feem that thia
is a different fpeciea from the true cochineal. As the American tiger,
or ratherjaguar, abound*, travellers are deterred from further refearcnes^
efpecially as they might eafily be loft in the perplexed and devious
paths. In the jurifdidion of San Miguel of Tucuman is found the tree
called quelrachtt a name derived from its extreme hardnefs, which
breaks the axe* The outer part is white, but the centre red ; and the
latter, after being fteeped in water, becomes hard and heavy like (lone.
In the fame province are fonnd fpiders, which weave a thread of great
ftrength and beauty. A league to the S. of San Miguel is the fait
river called Sali. That town is remarkable for the manufacture of a
kind of cars or carts, ufed in tranfporting articles of commerce. The
city of Salta is noted for a great concourfe of merchants in the months
of February and March, though in the rainy fcafon the roads are
fcarcely palublet the furrounding vale of Lcrma produces excellent
wheat and abundant pafturage, but the pour are tormented with a kind

•U msn's LttJn it Itfeif an tmufrmcnt 1 sml thout'lt fomctlmfs gtrniloui, h« Is redundant
ill authentic and uncommon ohfervationa. Hit worit, thow;h leariu;; n redriAed title ia
the Ml aeeouat y«t mtbliihad of tiit wholt viccfoyalty of La I'lsu. When lbs seder was
cruflied, be ffema to nsv« vesfsd to have been a Jefuit.

■" Xi, f

i 4
f

673

SPANISH DOMINIONS

of leprofy. The graziers who deal in mules, and the merchants, chiefly
Gallicians, are robiift, and the women are remarkable for their beau-
tiful complexions and flowing hair,

Government.] The government of the Spanifli colonies in America
has always been conduced with fuperlative prudence, except with
regard to the number of the clergy and monaftic inftitutions, The
college of the Indies, generally; confifting of the moft enlightened
men in Spain, has greatly cont»4buted to the wifdom of the admini,
ftration. While the French colonifts looH upon their abode in a diftant
country as only a temporary fource to procure means of exiftence in
France, Spain has, by a very different policy, excited the colonifts tq
remain in the new territories, and has held out every advantage for that
efFeft, which their avarice or vanity might have received at home.
Even the titles of Caftile, and the badges of knighthood, appear as
brilliant in the colonies as in the parent country } and the ecclefiaftic
titles of archbifliop and bifhop have been fcattered with profufion. A
rich colonift may, without leaving his domains, be created a duke, a
marquis, or a count ; and rather choofes to difplay his new ftar among
his inferiors in rank, than to lofe its rays in the milky way of the
Spanifh grandees.

Viceroy.] The important government of La Plata is entrufted to a
viceroy, who has alfo the title of captain-general, with an affeflbr, and
a fifcal *. There is alfo a' fecretary, in the entire confidence of the
viceroy, and who retains three principal clerks. The jurifdi^ion of
the viceroy extends to the whole political management, except the;
royal treafury, over which he has no authority. In the military depart-
incnt, he is commander in chief under the fovereign.

The affeflbr is alfo auditor, or fupreme judge ; and his military jurifi
diftion is that of captain>general of the veteran troops, for the militia
ib wholly fubjeft to the viceroy. When the viceroyalty was eftabhfh*
ed it was ordered that the Peruvian model fhould be followed ; yet,
among the guards, the halbardiers and cavalry have t^een omitted, an
airangement which diminifhes the idle pomp, without injuring the
power of the viceroys of La Plata. A more military ftyle has alfo been
adopted, the fortrefs at Buenos Ayres being regularly garrifoned with
a detachment of grenadiers, of whom one centinel is placed at the
bottom of the ftaircafe, and the other at the door of the faloon. The
vvarit of the guard of cavalry is fupplied by a feleA b^nd» who regularly
accompany the viceroy, two riding before and four behind, and whq
alfo carry his orders on particular occafions. The fal^ry of the viceroy
is 40,000 dollars ; but after deducing the half yeaif, and other cafual-
tics, there remain about 40,000. He is nominated for three years j
iiid if the term be prolonged, the half year is again deducted. The
falary of the aileffor, fifcal and fecretary is each between two and three-
thoufand dollars. The viceroy is fupreme preAdent of the royal
audience of Ch.ircas, and alio of the new royal audience, ereAed
in 1785, at Doenqs Ayrcs. He exercifes the royal vice>patronage, and
in that capacity has i grand fpat and canppy in the cathedral, where
he is treated with the fame ceremonies as are paid to the monarch.
He approves the nomination of the curates { and his jurifdi6lion extends
to the >mona(ieries in extraordinary c^fes. He contirms the eledion of
the magiftrates of the cities ; and the governors of provinces are his
(ub*delegatc8. H^ is (he fupreme head of the policey and fuperinten-

JEfUlls, xxvti. 318.

, w

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

6j9

dant of the revenue of the poft office, under the firft minifter of ftatCy
who is poftmaller-generaU throughout the Spani(h monarchy.

Treasury* Sec."} The royal treafury acknowledges as chief the
intendant of the army, a kind of paymafter-general. His falary it
10,000 dollars, and he prefides over the tribunal of accomptSf compo* .
fed of three chief accomptants. He audits all the accompt* of the
viceroyalty.

The intendants of the provinces manage in their jurifdi^ions the
adminiftration of juftice, of the police, of the revenues and of war.
In Paraguay, T.ucuman, and Santa Cruz they joined the command of
the troops. This form approaches to the ancient adminiftration of the
captains-general, except that there are more independent tribunals.
The governors intendants have a falary of 6000 dollars, and 600 for
the expence of the fecretariate and vifiting their province. The inten-
dant of Potofi, >vho is alfo diredor of the mint, and of the bank, hat
a falary of 10,000 dollars. To affiil thefe gentlemen in the adminiftra-
tion of juftice the king appoints an afleifor, learned in the law, who it
generally at the fame time judge in civil and criminal caufes, with an
appeal to the Royal audience, as there alfo is from, the other judges.
The aifeifor has a falary of 1000 dollars, derived from the municipal
rents, and 500 from the treafury, except thofe of the general inten
tiancy, who have 1 000. The alfeifors are entitled lieutenants of the
intendant governors ; and as fuch, in cafe of the abfence, ficknefs
or death of the governors, decide on the four caufes of juftice, policy,
revenue, and war, diredl the municipalities, and are conudered as chiefs
of the government. The vice-patronage and the command of the
troops are alone excepted, and fubmitted to the appointment of the
viceroy.

In the chief villages of the Indian diftri^ts, fub>delegates may be
named for the four caufes. In the large Spanifti ullages fub-delegales
are alfo appointed for the two caufes of revenue and war ; but report
muft be made to the intendant, while the fub-delegates over the Indians
ara ordinary judges in police and juftice, with an appeal to the Royal
audience.

A great obje6l of the new conftitution was to banifli all kinds of
corruption and lucre, which formerly tainted the courts of juftice.
The idea of re- uniting different maginracies and jurifdi£tions in one
honourable employment, is praifed by our author ( nor is it bur«
denfome to the treafury, becaufe the falaries and emoluments of thofe
that were fupprelled are more than fufficient for the new magiftracy.

Bcfidt-a the nine intendancies, there are four governments in the vice-
royalty of La Plata, viz. that of Montevicieo, pohtical and military |
and thofe of the Guaranis, Chiquitos, and Mojos, who have great
power military and civil. The eftabliftiments on the Patagonian coaft,'
and the Maluinas or Falkland iilands, are fubje£i to particular in-
ftrudions.

Population.] Eftalla computes the population of this viceroyaky
at 1,000,000 Spaniards or creols, and an inconftderable number of
ravages. The population of the two other viceroyalties probably doet
not exceed two millions and a half. That of Caracas, by the account
of Depons, amounts to 7a8,o«o, inchiding whites, negroes, and In*
dians { and Chili can fcarcrly exceed the number neceflary to complete
A milliop. Brazil, by the bed accounts, contains 200,000 whites, and
600,000 negroes, while the natives arc little more than would complete
aiiuther milligu. Thefe conjoined will yield five milliont and a half t

X a 4 nor

&6i

SPANISH DOMINIONS

qor can more thftn fix milltons be allowed for the general population of
the whole of South America.

• Army.] At Bueucs Ayres there are commonly two companies of
fufileerb) a d.tachment of dragoonsy and another of artillery, ferving
Jur the police of the city and the garrifon of the fortrefs, which is a
fquare built with ftone and brick, feated on the bankf of the river, and
the reiidence of the viceroys. Befides the veteran troops there is a
body of 500 men, called Blaadengs, divided into companies. They
are all natives of the country, and excellent horfemen, but little difci.
plined, and more (kilful in the fjpear and the rope and ball, than in fire*
arms. Their chief ufe is to defend the frontier ; and there are alfo
{bme blandengs in Santa F^. The militia at Buenos Ayres is compofed
of two regiments, as at Montevideo, and both in the fame blue uniform,
^he youth of Buenos Avres are generally fond of a military life ; the city
)»eing quite open is only defended by the fortrefs, but it is ftyled a
place of arms, with a royal lieutenant, who, in the abfence of the vice-
foy, exercifes a political ami military jurifdidion.

Such are the imperfect hints which Eftalia has given on this impor.
tant fubje^, though he have fo amply detailed, as we have feen, the
ftate of the military in New Spain, it feems fqarcely poilible that the
grand viceroyalty of ha Plata ihould be defended by fuch an inadequate
force ; and it is not improbable that at leaft ten or fifteen thoufand men
would be found in arms upon any ferious invafion.
■ MANNEas.3 According to Eftalia the inhabitants of Buenos Ayres
are of a f(?date turn, afiab^, and polite. A theatre has been eftablifhed,
which promifes to meet with fuccefs *, BulUfi|;hts were formerly held
in the great fquare : but it is believed that this pra£lice is aboliflied
throughout the monarchy. Both fexcs are handfome, with agreeable
f ountenances, and wear the Spaniffi dnefs : the ladies are very fond of
inufic, aitd in moft good houfes there is a. harpfichord, with which
they amufe the^Ceiyes and the company, without having recourfe to
icandal, gaming, or cici^ifm. Their ftockings, foncifully embroi-
dered with gold, difp^y the (hape of an elegant leg ; and they chiefly
pleafe by a playful and voluptuous air. The religious proceffions are, as
liifual, very niimerous and fplendid.

Cities AND towns.] Among the cities in the viceroyalties of La
Plata the firli and chief place is que to Buenos Ayres, though exceeded
^n population by Potofi. This capital is fituated on the W. fide of the
jp^at river Parana or La Plata^ which gives its name to the vicecoyalty.
Not forty years have elapfed fince it was regarded as only the fourth
city of the viceroyalty of Pern, the firft rank being aflig^ned to Lima,
the fecond to Cuaco, and the third to Santiago of Chili f. But ten
years ago Buenos- Ayres only y if Vied to JUiooa, and at prefent probably
exceeds that capita!. The creation of tHc new yicertfyalty, the rapid
progrefs of commerce and agriculture, an4 rnfiiy other advantages, have
greatly increafed the population { and its prblfoj^rity has become pro-
grcHive : formerly thefe were no country houlieSf ivor other fruits than
a kind of peach ; but at prefent there is no perifon in cafy d.rcumftances
who has not a country cotUge and warden, witK « v^nfcty of fittits, gar-
den plants, and fiowcft. In genend the houfes are not very high, but
arc convenient, well cohftru£teid, and well furniflicd. Both fiezes being
drcfied in the Spaniih manner, the fififliions change accordingly, as may
be perceived as far as the town of Jujuy | while the Spmiarda in, Peru

• Eiyu, ixvii. see.

.tEA»:la,xx.ii7.

have

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

681

have peculiar and hereditary dreffin. The women of Buenos Ayrea
are celebrated among the moft beautiful in America ; and though they
are not fo expenlive in their drefs a» thofe of Lima, it is more agreeable
and elegant.

Till 1747 there was no eftabliflunent of couriers or pofts in Buenos *
Ayrcs* nor the interior provinces. Traders occaiionally fent couriers^
but in general entrufted their letters to paflengers who travelled in carts
tQ Jujuy or Mendoza, whence the promptitude of the intercourfe may
be conceived. Meat of all kinds abounds in the city, and is fometimes
given to the poor gratis. The water of the river is turbid, but when
preferved in large jars is excellent, event if kept for a long time. Va-
riety of fi{h is found ia this majeftic river, and that called the fiexerey
attains a prodigious fize. The want of ice is a deficiency in dpaniui
luxury, for in the province of Buenos Ayres, and even of Cordova,
fnow is unknown. A new kind of induftry is exerted in colledling hoar
froft, in order to refrefti particular drinks. The falubrity of the cli«
mate may be judged by the catalogue of the births and deaths, which
evinces thit the name of Buenos Ayres, or Good Air, has not been
idly attributed. Yet in the months of June^and July, Auguft and Sep«
tember, fogsarife from the river, to the detriment of the lungs. The
Pamperos^ or ftrong winds from the deferts called Pampas^ are alfo in*
juriuus on account of their violence. The Indians ftyled Pampas fome-
times dillurb the commerce with the Peruvian provinces; but their
numbers have declined, and being^ very cowardly, they only attack by
furprife, fometimes fifty agait}^ one, as is not uncommon when Indians
aflault Spaniards or mulattoes.

Buenos Ayres, by the lateft obfervations, is in S. lat. 34° 46' and in
52*^ 16' W. long, from the royal obfervatory at Cadiz. Founded in
1535, it was afterwacds abandoned by the fettlers, who pafled to Af-
fumption in Paraguay : but in 1580 Buenos Ayres began to be reftnred
as a mere ftation ; and it was not till 1620 that it became the chief town
of a jprovince called Rio de la Plata *. The ftreets are broad and ftrait,'
and m the principal there is a pavement, as they are rather incommodi-
ous in the nunv feafon, having little or no declivity, while during drought
the duft is rather troublefome. As ftone is rare, the houfes are built
of brick, the lime being |)rocui%d from banks of (hells ; nor is there
any edifice that deiierves the epithet of magnificent; but the agreeable
regularity of the buildiags gives it the air of an Englifh city. The
houfes ot the rich have generally a veftibule, and a court furrounded by
the apartments.

The cathedral is in the fquare, being a new ftruAure on the fite of
the former, which became ruinous in the middle of laft century. The
prefent has three naves, befides feveral chapels ; and in 1798 had coft
naif a million of dollars, and would coft as much to complete it, which
is probably now accompllflied, as the work proceeded with expedition,
j^ean time the church of the Jefuits ferved as a cathedral, but is iniiv
tended to form an univcrfity. A college is opened, that of San Carlos,
dud to contain about 100 ftudents. The ecclefiaftic eftabliihment con-
fids of a bifhop and fome dignitaries ; the parifh churches amount to
fix, and convents are numerous, as ufual in Spanifh cities. There are
two hofpitals for orphan children, one of which receives foundlings.
There is alfo an afylum for women of the town, and in the neighbour-
jiqed there are feveral hermitage^ and little chapels.

II.'

;.£A»IIa; uvu.3r5.

The

$8t

SPANISH DOMINIONS

The haven oh the E. can fcarcely be fo called, being greatly expofcd
whence Montevideo may be regarded as the fea port of Buenos Eyres*
The tide rifes to a confider.ible height. The chief wall is to the
north of the fquare : two rows of the trees called oAiius have been
recently plairted, but the fpot is muddy in winter, and dufty in fun.mer
Dn the W. there is a great number of gardens, in which are cultil
vated many of the European fruits and herb?, and olives are found to
thrive.

Our author was not able to procure an exaft eftimate of the popu,
lation of this city, which is daily on the increafe, but it is fuppofrd to
be about 40,000 fouls, of whom the whites or Spaniards compofe one
half, the other half confiding of negroes, mulattoes, and fome few
Indians who come from other parts.

The other chief cities and towns will not demand equal attention. By
the recent account of Helms, Potofi would demand the preference,
having, as he aiTerts a population of 100,000, while Lima itlelf has
only been eftimated at 54,000; but Robertfon had, from the beil
Spanifh authorities, affigned only 25,0:0 to Potofi, and the fame nnm-
ber is given by Alcedo, who is however too often antiquated in his
idefcriptions. However this be, it may not be improper firft to throve
a glance on the towns in the neighbourhood of |iuenos Ayres, from
the recent materials of Eftalla.

Montevideo is celebrated for its harbour, the moft confiderable and
advantageous of this viceroyalty. Struck with the iituatioa, Don
Bruno de Zabella, with fourteen or fifteen families from the ifle ot
Palma, one of the Canaries, eftablifhed himfelf here in 1731 ; fince
which time tlie population has been gradually on the increafe. Santa
Fe Hands on the great river Parana ; Corrientes was founded in 1589,
and was at firft greatly, infefted by the Abipons, fo that it became
necefiary to eftabliih a corps of militia in order to reprefs them. U
has now a church and three convents.

But next in importance to the capital is the celebrated city of Potofi,
fuppofed, as already mentioned, to contain iO),ooo inhabitants. It
{lands in a diftri£i enclofed by the province of Porco, being very
mountainous and cold, and confcquently barren ; yet there are (heep
and fome vicunas*. The diftrid of Potofi is bathed by the river
Pilcomayo, which joins the Parana not far above C^orrientes, fo that
there is a natural connexion bct>yeen this province and Buenos Ayres,
The city of Potofi was founded in 1545, on the fide of a mountain of
the fame name, in a glen formed by a rivulet. The mint was eftablifhcd
in 1562, and has continued richly to fupply all Europe with filver ;
but an account of the commerce and mines is referved (or another part
of this defcription. The numerous convents naturally^ followed the
wealth of the city, a vow of poverty being found very compatible with

great riches. There were fourteen curates in the city an^ the diftnft ;
ut feven curacies were abolifiied in 1759. In the neighbourhood there
are warm medicinal baths, ftyled thole of Don Diego, and ei'catly
efteemed. In general it is believed warm fprings are foi^nd in the
proximity of minerals. The famous mountain of Potofi may be faid
(o confiil of one mafs of filver, which the avarice and labours of 260
years have fcarcely weakened. The coinage of Potofi is about
4,000,000 dollars a year. As provifions and other articles are brought
from all quarters, the barrennefs uf the foil it little perceivable, and,

Alcedo in voce^

th9

IN SOUTH AMERICA.'

the luxuries of life naturally flock around a mountain of filver. A
eold and violent wind, called tomahavi, reigns during the months of
May, June* JvXy, and Auguft, The city ftands on an eminence, on
the fouth fide or the mountain, and may be about two leagues in cir-
cumference *. Potofi is by the Spanifh writers ftyled an Imperial City,
the refidence of a corregiuor, and of a tribunal of finance, compofed or a
comptroller and treafiirer f . Its commerce was formerly compared
with that of Lima, but is now far fuperior, aiid ufed to confiH in the
exchange of ingots of filver for the articles imported. Barba, who
wrote a celebrated treatife on metallurgy, had been a curate at Potoil,
La Paz, in the fame region, is alio a confiderable city, having,
according to Helms, more than 4000 hearths, or twenty thoufand inha-
bitants ; and is an elegant and clean town, chiefly trading in the noted
tea of Paraguay.

Mendoza, formerly in Chili, but joined to the new viceroyalty,
was founded in 1559 in a pleafant fituation, on the eaftern fide of the
Andes. The houfes are handfome, and have generally well watered
gardens, abounding in fruit and pot herbs ; there are many churches
iind convents, and Alcedo computes the families at 300, of which one-
half are Spaniards and creols. There is here a celebrated paflage
through the Andes for travellers to Peru. Mendoza flands on a river
of the fame name, to the S. of the volcano of Santiago. It- ufed to
be infeiled by the incurfions of the favage tribes of Chili ; and the
city and province being on the eaftern fide of the Andesy while all the
other- fettlements in Chili are on the weft, they became naturally
adjoined to the new viceroyalty.

Chucuito is an interefting little town on the grand lake of the fame
name, otherwife called Titicaca ; it is one of the moft cheerful and
convenient towns in that region ; and though the climate is very cold^
the foil is fertile, and there is abundance of cattle.

Puno, on the weftern fide of the great lake of Titicaca, is a rich
and populous town, with fome illuftrious families. There 'Vt a beautiful
church for the Spaniards, and another for the Indians. The other
towns, or rather villages, in the annexed Peruvian provinces are of little
confequence. Oruro, noted for its mines, has, according to Alcedo,
five convents and four parifli churches ; but the mines having declined,
it is probable that a decreafe has taken place. Oropefa was formerly
of confiderable confequence, being the capital oi the province of
Cochabamba, formerly ftyled the granary of Peru.

Santa Cruz de la Sierra is the feat of a bifliopric, while it is rather
to he regarded as a miflionary ftation, than as a regular town.

On returning towards the S. the town of Jujuy has rather declined,
partly owing to the litigious fpirit of the inhabitants, a weakneft
attached to the ancient province of Tucuman : the chief trade is in
cattle, which they fell to the miners of Potofi, befides fome mules
which they bring to the great fair of Salta %,

Salta is celebrated for the great fair in February and March, during
yvhich it is fuppofed that in the adjacent valley of Lerma thete are
aflembled more than, 60,000 mules, and 4000 horfes.

San Miguel of Tucuman, formerly the capital of the province of
that name, is now in that of Salta. The lituation is elevated and
iigreeable, being furrounded with fertile ^elds, but the population does

• Ulloa Mcmolyes, vol. ii. p. 2*3. f W* Voj*6«* '• *2l.

;EA»Ila,»1. 139.
not

If.

III

604

SPANISH DOMINIONS

not feem to correfpond with the extent. Some mules aie bred, but the
chief traffic is in a kind of carts or cars, which pafs to Buenoj Avrea
and Jujuy, the abundance of wood facilitating this manufaaure *.

Cordova, a celebrated town, the capital of ^ province, and refidence
or a biflxop, is fituated between the river Primero, fo called becaufe it
is the firft of five in the neighbourhood which flow in the fame diredion
and a hill, on a level but iandy foil, fo that the rains fpeedily pafs*
though the vapours arc unwholefome. The city approaches a fquare
form, but the cathedral is irregular from the want of fymmetry in the
towers f .

, The town called Aflumption in Paraguay, the chief of the province
was founded in 1536, and the bi(hopric in 1547. For a confiderable
time it had the preponderance over fiuenos Ayres, as mentioned in the
account- of that city. Befides the cathedral there are three parifli
churches, and four convents ; buft Alcedo only computes the inhabitants
at 400. In the vicinity is bred abundance of cattle, (heep, horfes
mules ; and among the articles of cultivation are wheat, maize, fugar
tobacco, cotton, yuca, manioc, hatatat and garden plattts. Dobriz*
hoffer fays that the houfes are built of ftone or brick, but only of one
floor, as are the Monafteries. The ftreets are crooked and impede4
with ftones and wood, while the grafs grows in the chief fquare.

Commerce.] The interior commerce of this viceroyalty, as already
mentioned) is conduced by the means of covered carts or little waggons
4niwn by oxen, and which form caravans in order to be fecure againil
the attacks of the favagcs. The chief journies are from Buenos Ayres,
to Jujuy, and to Mendoza ; after which ftations it is necefiary to have
recourfe to mules, as the country becomes mountainous. The load of
each waggon exceeds 100 arrobas, and is commonly 150, the hire be*
ing from 70 to 150 dollars, but commonly a dollar for each arroba, on
the diilance of Buenos Eyres to Jujuy. This trade fupports many in-
dividuals, and increafes the circulation of money ; and the population
in the provinces of Cordova and Salta is fuppofed to amount to
aoo,ooo fouls, fome even fuppofe 300,000.

AGRICULTWRB.3 The increafe of commerce has had, as ufual, a
beneficial effe& upon the agriculture. A royal fchedule, in 179 1, granted
to Spaniards and foreigners the right of introducing negroes, and
other inftruments of agriculture. >u>r is it improbable, in the opinion
pf our author, that this wide and fertile viceroyalty may become in
a few years not only the granary of the other Spanim colonies, but of
the parent country, by the extreme fertility of the foilf and the ex-
cellent regulations adopted.

Natural oeocraphy.] The Natural hiftory of this grand vice-
royalty may be traced in the recent publications of Dobrizhoffer and
Helms, not to mention the writings of the Jefuits concerning Paraguay,
and the works of Ulloa, which chie^v relate to the Peruvian provinces.
A few circumftances lefs known to the Englifli reader fliall be firft ex-
tracted from the recent publication of ^ftalla, in the order generally
Allowed in this work. The grand rivers of Parana, or La Plata,
which gives its name to the viceroyalty, and thefe of Paraguay and
yruguay, have been ahr<;a^y br^fly cbfcribed ii^ the general account of

* Near St. Miguel of Tacuman there is abuodsBce of prodi£;lo«i cedui, oad th« timba
k brought even tu Boeno* Ayres. Dob. i. 5^

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

69f

South America *. To the fouth weft of the ftation of Lujan, at the
diftauce of 113 leagues, and nearly at the fame diftance from Buenos
Ayresy there is a lake of fix leagues in circumference, which in extremely
fait ; and at the bottom the fait is found in cakes fo hard and thick
ttiat it is difficult to break them with iron tools. On the weftern and
fouthern fides there are carob trees, and a kind of broom, extending for
more than a league, the foil bein? of fand and chalk, but marmyf.
A fingularity of this lake is that all the ftreams that enter it from the
fouth, which is upland, are fait, and thofe from the north, which are
ftill higher, are fweet. Many other fait lakes appear to exift between
this and the Andes of Ciiili* and others alfo on the eaft towards the
river Flores. It is remarkable, that in this chain of lakes, a few are
frefh among the greater number which are falc : and that in the rainy
feafon they are fo fwelled that many of them communicate with each
other Our author conjeftures that the river Mendoza :j:, wliofe ter-
miiiation is unknown, may probably bring the fait from the Andes, and
be loft in the lakes.

The grand lake of Titicaca is often four to fix fathoms deep not far
from the (hore, and towards the middle forty or tifty, without any
flioals. The Indians pafs in their balfas, a kind of rafts, fupported by
inflated ficins, from ifle to ifle. On one of the pi^urefque iflands, the
Incas dedicated the firft temple to the fun. This noble lake is however
fubje£l to'fuddcn winds from the mountains. The iiih are thofe ftyled
by the Spaniards iagret, omantesy Juchesy anehovetasy and boquillas^
moftly it would appear of the alpine kind. It is a conftant tradition
among, the Indians, that great treafures were thrown into this lake
when the Spaniards entered the country ; and among others the great
chain of gold made by command of the Inca Huayna Capac, which
was 233 yards in length, and furrounded fix thoufand men who danced
within.

MovNTAiNS OF CORDOVA.] The mountains of Cordova, being »
chain paifing N. and S. on the W. of that province, are by fome re-

Srded as a branch of the Andes, and faid to be covered with perpetual
>w. But while the orology even of the Andes themfelves, the moft
fublime and magnificent chain of mountains in the world, remains-
obfcure, it is no wonder that the branches are neglefled. By
Mr. Humboldt's account a chain of mountains unite the Andea
with the mountains of. Paraguay and Brazil, through the pro<
vinces of the Mojos and Chiquitos; fo that this chain muft wind

* Hie imme Parma fignifie* coufin of the fea, Dob. I. 188. Wlmt Is to be thous^ht
»f his yaquaro, which he callt a water tiger, and lays that it devoura mules and horfea ?
H>. 191. See the defcription, p. 330. It is dangerous in paffing riverit ; ~but tliere is a
Jifli III the Varaiia by which fwiinmers are iumetimes furprified to find themfelvci com|)letely
nftrated.

The terrible catanA of the Iquafu, four leagues befare it join the Parana, is dcicribsd
by Dobriihofler, i. 195. This navigable river falls about thirty yards, and the vapour w
fecu at the diftance of four leaaues. At tlio diflance of three leagues firom tlie cataraA,
the Iquafu is a league in breadth.

The mouth of the Parana is faid to be fniy leagues in hrcadth, and Spanifh
fliips from C^t, mounted Su above AflVunpiion, which is four hundred leagues frosi
tlie fea.

The ward Paraguay means dM crotm, or a kingly ffaream. The fabulous lake cf
Xaraes has been explodied by Dobrizhoffer.

t Eflalla, nmi. 3:15.

t This rivar^ accoi^ing to Alcedo, l»s pierced a hill, and formed a natural bridge,
•ircr wliich three waggons may pafs abreail t the infide of tlie arch being adorned widi
nriottt llgum bj a uatonl ittuUation, fujperior in beauty to anj tbinf that art eov\i
|ndaoc*

Kl •"

rsp

tT MB

llif

ts^igi.

In
14

SPANISH DOMINIONS

in a femiciircuUr form*. The mountains of Cordova, according td
Helms, fometimes prefent red and green granite, and gneift, whil^
the grand chain of the Andes confifts of argillaceous fchiftus. It is not
wholly improbable that if the grand chain, which confifts of thtee divi-
fions or feparate ranges of mountains, were examined by a Sauflure, o^
other eminent inveftigator, a grand line of granite might be obferved,
t^hough the argillaceous fchiftus forms the higheil mountains, as in the
Pyrenees the calcareous ridge greatly exceeds the granite in height }
while in the other European mountains, and fo far as appears in tnofc
of Afia, the grand elevations are of granite and granitic compounds.

Botany*] The botany of thof- provinces of this viceroyalty which
formerly belonged to Peru, may be traced in the Flora Peruana ; bv.t
of the central, fouthem, and eaftern provinces^ no formal botany has
yet been publiflied. This deficiency may be in a great degree fupplied
from the work of the induilrious DobrizhoiFer, who has in his firft
volume given a general natural hillory of Paraguay* In extrafting a
iew notices, the order of the original work flialT be followed^

The tree which bears the quinquina or jefuit's bark i» frequent among
the Chiquitos, who call it pizoet. It is of middling growth, bearing a
round fruit with two kernels. The juice is of a pleafant ftr.el), but
very bitter, and the Indians ufe it for fome complaints arifing from cold.
The farfaparilla is the root of a thorny plant, very common on the bank!
of the river Uraguay and other ftreams, but the beft is from HonduraSit
On the mountains near the town of AiTumption, and on the banks of
fome of the nvers, rhubarb is found, the leaf of the fpecies ending in
a point like thofe of the lily. The true jalap, or wonder of Peru^
abounds in Paraguay. The mechoacanj or white rhubarb, a remedy
given to children, is alfo found, the plant refcmbling the bryony.
The beautiful tree called fafliofras is faid to abound in the northern parts
of Paraguay i the wood is often adulterated with that of the red pine.
The paio fanto and the guayacant which mud not be confounded, are
natives of thefe provinces. The latter is the taller tree, and the wood
ufed with fuccefs in the gout, and other complaints, under the name of
guayacum.

The algarroba or carrob tree is of great utility, but the fruit differs
in form, hze, and colour from what is commonly fold in Europe, the
tree having been brought from Africa into Spain by the Moors f. The
American carrob deferves European cultivation, as not only a winter
fupply for cattle and mules,' but as affording palatable food and drink
to mankind. The (hell or hulk is broader than that of Spain, with
larger beans or feeds of a brownlfh colour, while the pulp is whitilh
and fweet. In Paraguay the (hells are fometimes a fpan in length, and
as broad as the thumb. Of this valuable tree there are feveral fpecies ;
and it is the bulinefs of the favagc women to gather it in the woods,
make bread by pounding it in a mortar, or a wholeXome drink by in^
fufing it in cold water, contained in a beeve's (l<in, when, in about
twelve hours, the fermentation commences, and the liquor, at firil acid,
foon becomes fwoot and wholefome.

What is called the tea of Paraguay is compofed of the leaves of ii
common tree, called by the Guaranis r<i<i, dried by a (low fire ; this

• A chain of inountaitii gircU Tui tiinan, Clmrcai, Suuta Crvtr de la Sierra, anrl Ciiicn,
•xtcndh'g from Conltiva iuwhuIb Potofi; thcnvc to Santa Ciu/, aiui the lake, or ratlirr
river Maniorit it) one iotiiitiu<>ii<i rid{tr. Dob. lUU.

•f Dobrizliuflcr, i. ioj, wUo frrqurtitly in )m nurk ufri tlie trrm/r /I'^na giitca ibr tli«
n)u«bl* ^i< of tl'I' ^^^< ^7 ihc (.•criiiaiu ctllcd titc bicad nC St. John.

tree

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

6«J

tree loves a motft foil, and fomewhat refembles the orange. Tht
fmell is very fweet. The leaf, being gummy, muft not be too much
dried, and as the tafte is fomewhat bitter, the decodion muil be
fweetened *.

ZooLooy>] The wool of the vicuna and guanaco are among th6
exports from this viceroyalty. The former is worked in Spain into
moil elegant and durable cloth, nor is it unknown in the manufactures
of France. Naturahfts now allow, that there are no lefs than live
fpecies of thefe animals, which may be called froall camels, the glama
or tamttj the j^uanaeot the moromoro or chilihueque of the Chilefe, the
vicuna and the paeo or alpaco. Gmelin in his edition of Linnseus, has
called them camelus glamat buanacust arcuanut, vicugna^ paco^ alfo ftyled
in Spanifh America carnerot de la tierrot or native iheep.

The A merican tiger or jaguar is chiefly known in Paraguay, and
the forefts to the north; and the/tfma, by fome called the American
lion, is little mentioned. The latter is of a reddifh brown colour, while
the former is marked with black fpots upon a yellowifh ground. But
from Buffon*s account of the jaeuar, it is evident that he judged only
from a fmall animal, probably ient from French Guiana } for Dobris-
hoffer informs us, that as the lions of Africa far exceed thofe of Para-
guay (the pumas) in fize and ferocity, fo the African tigers yield ia
magnitude to thofe of Paraguay. He faw the (kin of one killed the
day before, which was three ells and two inches in length, or equal ta
that of a large ox ; but he adds, the body is more ftender than that of
an ox. According to the fame author, they kill and carry off oxen and
horfef, and he gives fuch Angular inftances of their Itrcngth as to
evhice the error of Buifon's theory. Other animals are, the wild cat,
the elk, the ant-bear, a kind of deer, &c. In the great river Maranon,
there appears to be a fpecies of hippopotamus. In the Alps, towards
Tucuman, the condor is not unfrequent : it is a kind of vulture, with
a red creit, the body being black, fpotted with white. A fpecies of
oftrich is alfo found in the wide plains of Paraguay, and in the neigh-
bourhood of Buenos Ayres. What is called a partridge abounds in the
Pampas. A fcrpent of prodigious fize is fometimes ieen in the moun-
tain forefts, and feems to approach the buio of the Orinoco, in the
environs of San Miguel of Tucuman may he obferved, in pafling the
high roads, many white threads of various fi/es twiftcd in the trees,
with others at the diftance of fix yards, fo delicate as only to be per-
ceivable with the refle<^ion of the fun, when they (hine like threads
of filver. On thefe threads a kind of animal, like a very fmall
beetle, runs with great fwiftnefs ; while on the large tiireads may be
obferved dead infeAs of the form ot a common fpidtr, and the colour
of a boiled Iwbfter, being the fpiders in a ftate of transformation. The
webs are wrought with exquifite art, by all the iiifetts in their furn,
till they are (Irung enough to catch a bird. Of thefe threads the la-
bourers make cords for their hats, which are very claiUc, the natural
colour being that of the balls of the filk-worm.

MiNBRALOOY.] The mines form a grand objeft in the new vice-
royaltry, and are chitfly in the provinces formerly ftriftly confidt-red
as Peruvian ( for in fa£l Charcas, Tucuman, and even Buenos Ayres,
were all regarded as dependencies of Plmu, before the grand alteration
of 1778. If New Spain be excepted, the upper part of the viceroyalty
©f La Plata juftly dcfervcs the appellation given to the viceroyalty,

• Dob. i. 111.

being

ets

SPANISH DOMINIONS

being the richeft country vafilver which has yet been diCcovered on the
globe, and not to fpeak of Potoii, the mines of gold and filver may be
laid to be innumerable. Lipes, Chichas, Force, the chain of Aullagat
pervading Chayanta, Oruro, Faria, Carangas, Sicafica ; in flwrt it may
be faid that all the northern provinces teem with mineral opulence,
while Laricaja and Carabaya are diftmguiihed by virgin gold.

Such abundance of metaU is produced in the northern parts of the
iriceroyalty of La Flata, that in the mint of Potofi there are annually
coined about 6,ooo»ooo dollars ; and our author fuppofes that the con*
traband trade is inconiiderable, as the remittances to Spain are found
to correfpood with the produce ; and he adds that all the mines of the
viceroyalty may yield about 16,000,000 doUars: but this account
muft be compared with that of Helms which fliall be fubjoined.

Befides gold and filver, copper is found at Aibicoya near Oruro, and
in the diftri£t of Lipes. A rich mine of tin is worked at Guanuni in
the diftri£t of Paria ; and abundant mines of lead in the province of
Chichas.

The following is the ftate of the mines iu the new viceroyalty of
Buenos Ayres, as reported by Helms.

NAMES OF PROVINCES.

Gold.

SUv«-

Mines.

Till.

l^ad.

n f\ *va jHtf \Mw A«fc^^»»***rf***«

Tucuman • •

Mendoza - •

Atacama

^^PJJj Province of Potofi

%
I

I
I

Carangas

Pacajes or Berenguela •

Chucuyto

PaucarcoUaf Town Funo

Lampa

Montevideo

Chichas and Tarija

Cocbabamba

Sicafica

Laricaja

Omafuyos

Azangaro - •

Carabaya • •

Poiofi

Chayanta

Mizque • -

Paria • •

Total

30-

The fame author has given the following ftatement of the whole coi
ffe in Spanifh America, from the fit (I day of January* to the laft dai
December 1790, taken from the official regifter.

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

(^g

In Gold. In Silver. Total.

At Mexico, 628,044 Piaft. 1 7,435,644 Piaft. 18,063,688 Piaft.

At Lima, 821,168 4,341,071 5,162,239

At Potofi, 299,846 3>983>i76 4,283,022

At Santiago, Chili, 7 2 1,754 1 46, 132

». — ■■-■ !■-■ -I ■■ I W ■ —Mi-^H^— <—

Total 2,470,812 25,906,023

867,886

28,376,835

Natural curiosities.] Among the natural curiofities of thi'a
viceroyalty, may be named the bridge over the river Mendoza, already
mentioned. Another fingular objcft is obfervable in the province of
Chaco, about eighty leagues from Santiago del Ellero in the lat. of
27° or 28°, and about thirty leagues from Corrientes. This is a mafa
of native iron, which from N. to S. is about 3;^ varas in length, and
two from E. to W. having been difcovered in thefe diredlions ; and on
raifing it, it was found to be half a vara in thicknefs*. Hence it will
appear from thefe meafures, which yield 156 Spanifli cubic feet, or
nearly 1 33^ French, that this block will weigh about 1 14 quintals. The
ground for many leagues in circuit is very level and fandy, and void of
water, nor has any been found upon digging, yet fome trees appear
around. The face of this mafs is open and expofed, on a level with
tlie ground, and the reft, buried. The upper face is full of rifts or irre-
gularities ; pieces hewn out with a chiffel, {hew a brilliant colour like
iir.e filver, fpeckled with fpots, yellow and red, with fome of a fine
mulberry colour ; although there be no appearance of bitumen or fait,
the fmell decides the contrary, for a little furnace being put under the
mafs, there arofe a fetid odnur vvhich fpread to a confiderable diftance.
The viceroy having received fpecimens, he gave fome to an artifan, who
found them rully ; placed in the forge they were eafily joined, and were
hammered, and excoriated during the operation; like any other iron, could
he drawn intd wire, &c. and did not lofe fo much aa other iron. Tlie
tilings and excoriated fparks were attradable by the magnet, but this
operation was not tried before it was manufadlured. From thefe cii-
cumftances, it may fafely be inferred, that this mafs is of pure and duc-
tile iron, and even of a fuperior quality to many, while it bears r.o
marks whatever of having been fufed. The learned reader will recol-
left the other examples of native iron found in Siberia by Pallas, and
ill other parts, though rarely, by other mineralogifts. This native iron
is commonly intcrijerfed with olivine or peridot, a flone which to filex
adds a conhdcrabl portion of magnofiu ; and the green colour of the
chryfoprafe having been found to be owing to nickel, which thus con-
verts femiopal into that ftonc, the prefencc of nickel may be fufped^ed
ill the olivine. If this indudion be jult, the component parts of thefe
blocks of native iron, as joining with that metal filex, magneiia, and
nickel, are prccifely the fame with thofe of the ftoncs which have fallen
from the firmament in various countries, a phenomenon now completely
afcertaincd and admitted by the moil incredulous ; and in the rotation
of tlic earth, the largeft maffes may naturally be altrailcd by the widcll
continents, as in Siberia and South America. ' •

Near Jujuy, there ii a fingular volcano which might appear the pa-
lace of Eolus, where the winds were iinprifoned, for they rufli forth in
tlie morning with fuch whirls and duft, that they aftouilli thuic that are

• Eft.ilN, xxvii. .lai,

'mn

■yMf
m

'}■<• f'^3

*'i

■#

not

Cgo

SPANISH DOMINIONS

not aocuftonjed to the phenomenon *. Thefe winds, though they lofe
their violence in proportion to their diflance from their fource, are yet
extremely troublefome, till the traveller pafs the Quiaca, which is the
f5Ht poll of the jurifdiftion of Chichasf . Not far from Cordova, on
the banks of the river Pucara, at a place where lime is made, Dobriz-
tiofFer affures lis, that in a calm and clear night, he has heard noifes re-
fetnbling the firing of canon at the fiege of a fortrefs ; and people who
live in the neighbourhood, affured him that this thunder was heard al-
moft daily from the neighbouring rocks, where the air feems to be (hut
up, and to efcape with violence by fmall apertures. In Cordova itfelf,
it is common to hear in the night a dull found, like that of a wooden
. peftle in a mortar. This melanchloly murmur pafles from ftrcet to
llreet, and is called by the Spaniards the Pifon, which fignifies the
rammer ufed by the paviours : our author, who had obferved this found
for two years, does not doubt that it proceeds from a fubterranean wind,
for the ground on which the town (lands is hollowed and rent with fre-
quent earthquakes :(:.

CHAPTER II.

VICEROYALTY OF PERU.

boundaries, — Provinces, — Peruvian Hiftory^ Language and tAntiqui-
ties. — Government of the Viceroyally. — Population. — Revenues. • —
Cities and Toivns. — Commerce. — Climate and Sea/ens. — »• Botany. —
Zoology, — Mineralogy,

THIS celebrated region is not unfamiliar even to the common reader)
hiiloryand romance having difFufed a peculiar glory around theincas;
and the voyages of UUoa and the French mathematicians, fent to meafure
a degree under the equator, are generally known ; but llriftly fpeaking
thefe voyages were only to Quito, a detached region. Only fome
notices therefore, chiefly relating to the prefent fituation of this in.
tei*elling country, fliall be felcftcd ; and the materials fliall be principally
chofen from the work of Eftalla, which, amounting to forty volumes,
and being written in the Spanifli language, will to moil readers prefent
the charm of novelty.

BouNDARits.3 The limits of the kingdom of Peru were greatly
reftri£led during the courfe of the laft century, as in 1718, the pro-
vinces of Quito in the north, as far as the river Tun\bez, were annexed
to the viceroyalty of New Granada, which has an eafy intcrcourfe with
Europe, by the narboiir of Carthagena, and the intermediate Uation of
Havanna i and in 1778, a number of opulent provinces in the fouth of
Peru, were allotted to the new viceroyalty of La Plata §.

Modern Peru therefore extends N. and S. from the river Tumbez to
the chain of Vilcanota, being, by the contputation of Eftalla, 2^9
iff'ographical leagues j but along the coail to the river Loa, the length

• EAilla, xs. 13U.

t Hiiinboldt l'iy» that ncoi the coaft uf Puria, in L'awu, or Cuiuai)a< tlicre U alfo •
tidily volcano of air.

The Hill of Faces tmon;; th: GuirAH'i* U k natural curiunty. Dob. i. lit, it u foctUc4
ibfraufc tlif ftone« bear a nide icrcmbUtia ul tht humiit fac«.

J Diibm. vol. i. 4>>,

i i^flalla, XX. 147.

may

li^ S6\)TH AMEktCA.

«>*

*fiay be 443 leag'Hes. The irregularity of its breadth cyffers «i mcdinm
of about 80 leagues, fo tliat tiie conttnts may be 33,630 leagues
fquare.

According to the Ifnap of La Crux, the fouthcrn extremity of the
chain of Vilcanola .being ij^, and the river Tumbez in 3'^ 30', both
S. lat. ilie difference of 11° 30', will yield 690 geographical milcB : but
that long ftrip, c^Ied the province of Arica, extending to the river
Loa 21° ij;', there is an addition of about 6" 15' or 375 geoefaphiGal
miles in the nominal length. On the N. the viceroyaity of Peru bor-
ders on that of New Granada; on the N. E. with the Pampa del
Sacrannento ; on the E. with the favage nations of the Pajonal ; on the
S. E. with the viceroyaity of Buenos Ayres, which embraces the pro*
vince and dtfart of Atacama, formerly the boundary between Peru and
Chili.

Provinces.] The provinces, or father diftri^ls of the Peruvian
viceroyaity, which are ftill very numerous, are as follow, proceedi»](
from S. to N. . .

22 Caneie ' \' _ ,

^' 23 Guar oh: n
24 Jaiija
2^ Tar ma

26 Canfa

27 Ghecras ,

28 H-Hfinuco '

29 Cdxalambd
' ' 30 Santa

31 Huaylat
3* Cfir.chucos

33 Paps

34 Caxamarquvrik

35 Huamachucos

36 Truxillo '

37 Sana

38 Ccxarr.arca

39 Chachapoyat

40 I.crtas

41 I.uya y Cliloot

42 Piura *. '
A few of thefe provinces have been def'-i-ibed by our author, ai

Truxillo, Tarma, Piura, Caxatambo, Chachapoyas, Canes and Canv
ches ; and he has greatly enlarged -on tlie new miiTioPB to the country
called Montana ReaU on the eailern fide of the Andes towards the
river Ucaial or true Maranon, and the various pnlTages by which thefe
mountains may be crofled in that diredtion. Some idea of thefe mil*
fions and refearches has already been given in tracing tlie fources and
rogrefs of the grand river Maranon, and this curious fubjeft. will
e further illuftrated in the account o'f the Native Tnhes ; the Iravelt
of Father Girval, in 1792, and the fi)llowiiig yvars having thrown a
confiderable light on that obfcure part of A merica.

It is to be regretted, that our author has not given us a liil of tlie
intendancics, into which the Spanifh coloiies in America we»"C divided
in 1784* inftead of the former Coirc^gkimfntost which were found to»

* Some fmall diftri^t treomittpd, fucti as CuUahuaSy railed Cv llalmus In the EngliiJi
ccipyofL* Cnu'i map, which rwarint with vrrun.

Y y a minute^

Ar'tca

Arequ'ipa

Canes and Canchei

Paucartamho

Chilques

6 Chumbivikas

Guaticaveitc-a

Aymarae%

Cotabamba

Cuzio

Abancay

Galea y Lares

J.'J

ytndahuaylas

Parinacochat

«5

Lueanas

1 6 lea

»7

Cq/frovirryna

VtleaJhuaniaH

Huanta

Angaraet

Yauyos

C^i

SPANISH DOMINIONS

niinate, wnile the little magiftrates were fubjeft to ignorance and cor*
ruption*. The infendancy of Tarma, for example, comprehends
eight of the above diftrias. The extreme northern province of Piura
belongs to the intendancy of Truxillo } and borders on the E. with the
province of Jaen de Biacamoros, which belongs to the viceroyalty of
New Granada ; on the N. with Loja, belonging to the prefidency of
Quito ; on the S. E. with Caxamarca ; and on the N. E. with
Guayaquil f . In the vallies of Piura, the temperature is excellent, and
the flcy ferene ; while the mountainous part towards the Andes is tem-
pertuous, cold, and cloudy. The rains, according to our author,
diminifh at certain periods of fix, eight, or ten years, but the longer
the period, the more abundant is the fall. Melons, water melons,
Calabaflies, cotton fhrubs, ajid a great variety of plants and flowers
decorate this province without cultivation. The river Tumbez, which
bounds it on the N. fprings from the fnowy chain of Loja. The moll
noted fea pore is that of Payta, taken -by Anfon in 1741, who dif-
graced his arms by burning the town, becaufe he did not find the
wealth he expeAed. At. Tumbez, landed Pizarro, the future con-
queror of Peru. On the fliore of Piura is found the noted plant
barilla. The old town of Tumbez, now ruined, was founded in 1531
by Pizarro, being the moll ancient fettlement in Peru ; and the fitua-
tion of the new town cannot be admired, as the fand of the fea begins
to gain on the ftreets. The chief produdls are cattle and cotton ; and
ia confiderabletiade is carried on in cafcarilla.

The moll fouthern inland province of the Peruvian viceroyalty is
that of Canes and Canches, bounded or pervaded by the Apuriinac or
genuine Maranon ;}:. In. his account of this province Eilalla gives
an iiiterefting defcription of the Apurimac and Vdcamayo, already
tranfcribed in difculung the fources of the Maranon. Near its fource
the Vilcamayo is pafTed by a natural bridge, the fourth example of the
kind in America. This province not only abounds in cattle and fhcep,
but alfo in pacos, which multiply furprifingly in the cold and barren
foil ; in the heights and flcirts of the Cordillera there is alfo a great
number of guanacos, vicunas, pacochas, venadoa a kind of deer,
vifcachos a kind of rabbits, partridges, and quails, and many birds of
prey : the mountains contain gold, fdver, copper, loadllone, lead, tin,
and even quickfilver. The name of Canes and Canches is derived from
two tribes who originally held the country, and were conquered by
Roca the fecond inca. There ftill exift the ruins of a temple dedicated
to the idol Viracocha. The language generally fpoken is. the Peruvian
or Quechua ; the chief town Siqiiani contains about 6000 fouls, but
only 92 Spaniards ; and the articles of culture are papas^ a kind of
potatoe, beans, wheat, barley. This province is governed by a judge,
a delegate of the intendant of Cuzco. The judge feledls the m'tta or
Indians for the mines, and names the greater alcalds for each village,
whd with the cazics and chiefs of the Indians, eledl the ordinary
alcalds and other officers. The miners are judged by a delegate, named
by the royal tribunal of mines at Cuzco. There is a regiment of
dragoons confifting of thirteen companies. The trade is in cattle and
woollen cloths to Cailloma, Arcate, Cayarani ; and in the other
mining ilations are fold meat, papas, and <' tii'i articles ; but the
weaving is the mofl flouriihing bufincfs. 1 tie Indians bring wine,

vinces; and tl

•* Sccdi»minprt1ogy,

t Eftalla, xxi. s-

Efiulla, ui, 90>

brandy

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

693

brandy, and cotton from the coaft. Others willingly go to work in
the mines of Condoroma, Arequipa, Condefuyos, and Cailloma ; but
thofe who by the royal ordinance pafs to Potoli are unwilling travellers, .
as they generally die of althma. The day of their departure is very-
melancholy, and after a folemn mafs by the curate, which they pay,
and his blelfing, which is given gratis, they affemble in the fquare,
accompanied by their fathers, relations', and friends ; and, amidll em-
braces and tears, depart with their wives and children for their deilined
labour. It would be worthy of the generofity of the Spanilh m®-
narchy to find other means of working the mines of Potofi ; and this
is perhaps the only cruelty of which it can be accufed.

Peruvian history.] This brief defcription of the two frontier
provinces may not be uninterefting in a geographical point of view, the
prefent limits of Peru being little underitood, even by geopraphera
themfelves. From what country the ancient Peruvians proceeded has
been matter of confiderable difputation ; but while the Mexicans bore
many marks of innate African cruelty, the Peruvians difplay the mild-
nefs of an Afiatic tribe. The monarchs and ruling people feem to have
been very diftin<5:> from the general population. The feries of the incas,
and their names, frequently occurring in books of voyages and hiftories*
it may not be improper to fubjoin them *.

1. Mancoy the fit 11 inca, is fuppofed to have reigned in the twelfth
century : declaring himfelf and his filter, Oello, children of the fun,
he married her, and after many laws and inftitutes to reclaim a favage
race, received from his people the title of Capac or rich In virtue. He
founded the temple of the fun at Cuzco, the capital of his empire, and
appointed virgins of the royal blood to ftrve that divinity.

2. Sinchi-Rocat or Roca the Brave, fon of the former. He extended
his dominions about fixty miles to the fouth of Cuzco.

3. Lloque-Tupanquif who fubjefted many tribes, and extended his
kingdom, or empire in many directions.

4. Malta Capact fon of the former, alfo fubdued f^veral diftridits, and
erefted fome eaifices.

Capac Tupanqul, another conqueror,

Inca-Roca alfo fubdued feveral little diftri^ts and tribes.

Tahuar^Huacac,

Inca Ripac, with an army of 30,000 men, conquered many pro-
vinces ; and the chief of Tucma or Tucuniaa is faid to have paid
homage at Cuzco.

9. Inca Urcoy depofed after eleven days,

10. /'afAarw/tfr fubdued Janja, Tat ma, and other provinces.

11. Tupanqul the third carried his conquells to the river MauH
in Chili ; and over the Mojus, far to the E. of the Audca.
About i45;o.

12. Tupac Tupanquu alio a conqueror,

13. Huayna Capac fubdued as far as Tumbez, nay the kingdom
of Quito, which nc left to Atahualpa, and his own fceptre to his
cldcll fon,

14. Intl-CuJi'Hualpa. He fought a bloody battle with his bro,
ther in the neighbourhood of Cuzco, but loli the day, and was mado
prifoner,^

• The oW nnme of Pem' IS Ta/ian^n, or Tahunntin-^in/u, the latter word lmplyi«[j
country. la the Qucchua jttWrK in a river; ami the new miine was iinpofwl from fomo
nuillkkcu ^tiefUon of the rude conquciors. TUerc axe fimilidr cxma in Conno, &«.'.

Y y 3 15. jitahualpa

7-
8.

694

SPANISH POMINIONS.

15. Atahualpot the ufurper* reigned at the time that Piaarro landed
at Tumbez \ and was made prifoner in a battle with that conqueror
near Caxamarca. He was beheaded in prifont a puuifhment which he
^ad infli£ted on his brother and legal fovereign.

1 6. Manco Caf>ac» crowned vvith permiffion of Pizarro at Cuzco.
Afterwards defeated by the Spaniards, he retired to the mountains,^
and is thought to have died about IS5$-

17. Sayri Tupac j the liift of the incas, emperors of Peru. He
Tefigned the fovereignty to Pliillp II. of Spain, and died » Chriftian,
leaving only one daughter who married Onez de Loyola, a Spanifh
knight, from whom defcend the marquifes of Orepefa and Alcanifes^

From this brief recapitulation it may be perceived that the monarchy
•f the incas, extending from the I'lver Tumbez 3-^-- (not to fpeak of
the fubjedion of Quito,) to the river Mauli,in Chili 35', that is 31° 30',
yearly 1900 g. miles, may well deferve the name of an empire; while
the Mexican princes oiily ruled a country of about one-third of the
extent, and which mirjht be hoaouicd by the title of a kingdom. The
comparative magnificence of the Peruvian monarch s is not therefore
jpatter of farprize. But a critical examination of the Peruvian hiftory^
and a difcufTion of the materials with which it is coiillru£ted, might
aiford a curious topic for fome enterprizing antiquary, w!io had vifited
the country ; and the learned arc far from being fatisfied with the pro.
dufiion of GarcilafTu dc h. Vega.

Among the native nations of America the Peruvians are by far the
moil intereftiug, having in fome inftances advanced nearer to civilization
than the Mexicans. The glama which may be called a fir.ull camel, had
been rendered fubfervient to their induftry ; and their buildings ereded
of (lone ilill remain, while of the earthen edifices of the Mexicans, even
the ruins have perifhed. The hiftory of the Peruvian monarchs is indeed
▼ague and unfatisfa£iory ; the noted Quipos fomewhat refembling the
Wampum of the North Americans, being brief and tranfitory records.
The government of the incas was a kind of theocracy, and the inhabi',
tants revered a divine defcent not claimed by the Mexicans monarclis.
The religion of the Peruvians was that of love and beneficence ; vvliile
the Mexicans fecm, in their cruel rites, to have been wholly influenced
by the fear of malignant deities. Some facrifices of the fmaller animals,
and offerings of fruits and flowers, formed the chief rites of Peruvian
fuperftition. The Mexican monarchy was founded by the fword ; the
Peruvian by fnperiority of wifdom : and the captives taken in war were
not immolated, but inftrudcd in the arts of civilization. An excellent
writer juftly pronounces, that the Peruvians had advanced far beyond
the Mexicans, both in the neceffary arts of life, and in fuch as
have fome title to the name of elegant*.' Manures and irrigation
were not unknown, though a kind of mattoc fornned the chief inllru-
ntent of agriculture. Their edifices were fometimes of bricks hardened
in the fuu ; but others were conftru£lei! of large ilones, the wallr.
Iiowever never exceeding twelve feet in height. The great roadu are
indeed flight and perilhable, when compared with European exertiurr-,
^et become wonderful when eftimated with the other parts of favage
, America. Their weapons and ornaments alfo difplayed no fmall degrte
ttfflcill, particularly in cutting and piercing emeralds, a gem it mud
be confelFcd of no great hardnefs. Amidil all thefe laudable quahtics,
^1 it to be regrettcdi that fuperftition led them to f^crilice numerous

own « is an h

KvlwiifoD> ill. 3ogw

▼idlma

IN SOUTH AMERICA, 1%^

viflitns on the death of a chief ; and a favourite monarch was fometime»
followed to the tomb by a thoufand flanghtered fervants. Had the
conqueil of America been cffe£^ed by the Spaniards at a period like the^
prefent, when European warfare has loft half of its ferocity, the
Peruvian monarchy might have been refpeftcd and prcferved ; for in the
other parts of South America there is a fuperabundance of the precious
metals to faliate the utmoil wilh of avarice. Whether the ruling people
be chiefly cut off, or it be the mere depreffion of flavery, ' 'i impofllble
tc difcover in the manners of the Peruvian natives any m^-ics of their
ancient advancement. In 1 781, there was a grand rebellion in the
mountainous part of Peru, conduded by a man who pretended to be-
a defcendant of the incas, and who aHumed that facred title. He
difplayed the ufual rage of the Americans againft the Europeans ; and
the revolt lailed near two years, when the new inca Tupec Amaru was
made prifoner with his family, and they were all quartered alive in the
city of Cuzco. He had conquered the provinces of Quifpicanchi, Tinta*
Lampa, Azangara, Caravaja and Chumbivilias *.

The language of the rnlirig people in Peru was called the Quechua^
and it is itill cultivated by the Spanidi clergy, as indifpenfable in the
converfion of the natives. The founds, i, //, /", gy r, are wanting \
but when the Spani(h grammarians add the .v, and s, they forget that their
own « is an ^ or^^* and their a is equally cxprefled by f . The grammar
of this language, and it is faid even that, of the Teh uels, is nearly as:
variegated and artilicial as the Greek, whence our wonder at the retine*
ment of the Sanfcrit may perhaps fuffer confiderable abatement.

Antiquities.] While the Mexican antiquities chiefly confift of
pyramidal tombs, the Peruvian are more diverfified and of greater import-
ance. A high road is mentioned faid to pafs for not lefs than 400
leagues to the northern and fouthern provinces. The ruins of tiie
temple of the fun at Cnzco are formed of Hones fifteen or fixteen feet
fquare, and which, though of the moft irregular fliapes, are fo exattly
adjuiled that no void ib perceivable. This is what has been called the
Polafgian ftyle of building, being found in the moll ancient monument*
of Greece and Italy ; and if we judge from this circumftance the
Peruvians were advanced to a confiderable itate of barbatic civilization.
Many ruins are alfo fjund of the edilices called tamltos, where the incas
lodged when they travelled. Bouguer fays that the walls are often of
a kind of granite, and the joints very perfeft ; there are fometimes even
moveable rings hewn out of the ftone itfelf. The voya^^e of UUoa may-
be confulted for other remains. Eftalla has mentioned a monument of
the power of the incas, being the remains of a pahce half a league
from TiU)wiUo near the fea. The pradlice of interring treafure in the
tombs lias led to their deftruttion ; but evidences remain of canals
watering tlie ground and artilicial meadows. Subterranean paflagea
appear leading from the fbitrefll'S, a lall mean of retreat not unknown
in Europe. The tombs, like tliofe of other ancient nations, were
barrows rcfembling natural hillocs ; and in a fpace fenced off with
flakes was placed the body, with various drefles, little images of gold,
filver, copper, or clay, and various weapons and uteufils : the treafures
found in tUefe tombs have fometimes been immenff. In thofe of the
women were found round mirrtirs made of marcafite or compact pyrites,
tiience called the mirror of the incas. Fi^tTures of quadruprds, birds,,
and reptiles, have alfo been found. But fuch remains are better repre-

• IlmulwMt.Nouv. Kfi>. p. 113.

Yy4

' :i

fentcd

',1

6^6

SPANISH DOMINIONS

fented in prints, than even the moll minute dofcription ; and it is fur-
prifing that no ingenious Spanifh autljor has pubhfhed a general colleaion
of Peruvian antiquities, a work which would do honour to the monarch
and the nation.

Spanish government.] The government of this viceroyalty is
divided like that of the others, into political and tcclefiaftic. By the
new conftitution there are feven intendants, and fifty-two fub-delegates,
dependent upon them j and all are fubordinate to the viceroy. The
divifions of the intcndancies are only accidentally indicated even by the
mod recent Spanifh authors. The Royal Audience, erefted in 1543*
is now comjpofed of a regent, an ofHce created in 1776, eight oidors
or judges, four alcalds of the court and two fifcals, the viceroy being
prendent. It is divided into three chambers, civil caufes being judged
m two by the oidors, while in the third, criminal caufes are decided
by the alcalds of the court. There is alfo a fuperior junta of the royal
treafury, compofed of the viceroy, the regent of the Royal Audience,
the dean of the tribunal of accounts, and other officers. The tribunal
of accounts determines caufes of the. revenue. It is underllood that
each viceroy is to give in to his fucceflbr a detailed account of his
adminiftration, and of the condition in which he leaves the country.
He is alfo bound to remain fix months after his demiffion, that law fuits
may be brought againft him, in cafe he have committed any a£i of in*
juftice.

Church.] The archbirtiop of Lima, has four fuffragans, the
biihops of Cuzco, Arequipa, Guamanga, and Truxiro. Befides the
chapters of thefe biflioprics, there are 557 curates of the royal pre-
fentation.

Population.] The population of Peru never appears to have been
great : and Bouguer has obferved that the ruins of the ancient villages
are generally at the diftance of ten leagues from each other. Accord-
ing to Eftalla the population of this viceroyalty, according to a cenfus
very recently taken, amounts to 1,076,122 perfons of all iexes, condi-
tions and denominations, being compofed of the three primary dif.
tinftions, Spaniards, Indians, and negro. ?, from the mixture of which
refult various cafts and colours. The nuraber of towns and villages is
computed at 1460*.

Revenues.] One of the chief fources of revenue is the coinage at
Xiima, which, as has been feen, amounts to more than 5,000,000 of
piaftres annua^ly. The natural produdls may yield about 1,500,000;
but while Eftalla fuppofes that the royal treafury receives more than
4,500,000 dollars, there feems fome exaggeration. The article of com^
merce will throw more light on this part of the fubjeft.

Cities.] The capital city of Lima, by the lateft enumeration pub-
lifhed in the Alenurio Peruanot has a population of 52,627 ; the monks
and clergy being 1392, the nuns 1585. The Spaniards in general
1 7,2 15 I with 3219 Indians, and 8960 negroes, the others being mixed.
This celebrated city has been fo often defcribed that it is unnecelTary to
inijft on fo trivial a theme.

The chief commerce of Lima is with Valparaifo, Concepcion, and
Coquirabo in the kingdom of Chili, the ifle of Chiloe ; and Arica, Ilo,
and Pifco in the fouth ; towards the north with Truxillo, Pacafmayo,
»nd Payta in the viceroyalty of Peru ; with Guayaquil and Panama in
tbQ yiceroyalty of New Qranada ; and with Realejo 10 Guatemala, and

£{UUa,xx,iM)«

Acapuico

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

697

ftiip", eleven
or ftr til tranf-
navi.;,'^ated hf
jldiued bv le

Acapulco in Mexico, This trade is conduced b;
merchant-frigates, nineteen packet-boats, and a balanu.
port ; amounting in all to 35 1*500 quintals of tonnage
460 feamen. The nature of this trade is minutely c
author, but little adapted to the prefent defign *.

The royal univerfity of St. Mark was founded in 1570, and is con-
du(^ed on the plan of the SpaniOi univerfities. In the great fquare of
Lima there is a noble fountain of bronze ; and the city prefents many of
thefe ufeful objeAs. The theatre is a neat building, but the represen-
tations might difplay more tafte. CofFee-houfcs only began to be opened
in 1771. Cock-fighting is a favourite amufement on Sundays and
feftivals ; nor are bull-fights unknovirn.

The fccond city of the viceroyalty of Peru is, beyond all comparifon
Cuzco, formerly the feat of the Peruvian monarchy. Alcffdo eftimates
the population at 26,000, but it fuffered greatly by a pelUlence in
1720. ■ Lima may be called the maritime capital of Peru, and Cuzco
the inland metropolis. Proudly fituated amidft the furrounding Andes,
and boafting its origin from the firft of theincas, Cuzco flill retains the
majeily of a capital. The fituation is unequal, on the fkirts of various
mountains, watered by the little river Guatanay. The cathedral is
large, rich, and handfome, and by many preferred to that of Lima ;
there are befides fix parifh churches, and nine convents. There are
four hofpitals, of which one is fupported by the tolls of the neighbour-
ing bridge on the Apurimac. A nunnery now (lands on the fituation
where, lived the virgins of the fun. In the college of St. Bernard are
taught grammar, philofophy, and theology. The remains of the
fortrcfs of the incas, built of irregular mafles of ilone, joined with
confiderable art ; the fubterranean paflage which led from the palace of
the incas to the fortrefs, of a contrivance fomewhat Angular ; the
fragments of a pavement of (lone which led to Lima, are no mean
monuments of antiquity. The municipality obtained great privileges
from the emperor Charles V. In fize Cuzco is nearly equal to Lima ;
on the north and weft are hills forming a femicircle, but in the fouth
and eaft is a plain. Ulloa defcribes the houfes as moftly built of ftone,
and covered with very red tiles, the apartments being well diftributed,
and the doors richly gilded, while the furniture correfponded with this
magnificence.

Tlie other cities or chief towns of the viceroyalty of Peru are the
three other bifiioprics, already mentioned, of Arequipa, Guamanga,
and Truxillo. Arica and Oropefa have declined ; nor is Piura of much
confequence. Truxillo feems to be one of the moft important of thefe
cities, but the fituation is expofed to earthquakes, the lail being that
of 1759. In 1686 Truxillo was fortified againft the buccaneers, con*
ftitutiiig with Lima the only two fortified cities in the viceroyalty.
Till the new fyftem of intendancies was eftablifhed in America this
city was governed by a corregidor, without any authority over the
eight other diftridls. The intendant is the chief of the municipality,
which confifts of two alcalds, twelve regidors, and other ofitcers.
The revenue of the bifiiopric in 1788 was computed at 25,000 dollars.

* The feaport town of Callao having been utterly (leflroycd by an earthquake in 1747, a
ncirtown or village was immediately founded, at thr> diftance of a quaiter of a league, and
railed BeUavijia. Tliere is a fortrefs called San Fernando, with a fuffiiient garrifon xo
defend (be hay, which in the S. W. is fenced by a burden iflaiHi CftlleA $«a Lorenzo. Hem
ill the (})i|)3 andtor about two league* f{om Liuia,

3 ' The

19^

SPANISH DOMINIONS

The population of the whole diftria is computed at 12,000; that of
the city at 9000. The chief produAs and article* of comrtercc are
wheat and fugar *.

Arequipa was founded by Pizarro in 1536, in the valley of Quilca,
twenty leagues from the Pacific, beneath the mountain Omati covered
with perpetual fnow. The climate is rather dry, benign and healthy ;
and the houfes neatly built of ftone, while the river Chile bathes its
fields and gardens. There is a handfome fountain of bronze in the
great fquare, and an elegant bridge over the river. This city has
repeatedly fuffered from earthquakes, efpecially in 1785, before which
time the population was computed at 30,000. Guamanga was alfo
founded by Pizarro in 1539 in a wide and beautiful plain, watered by
^ river, and crowned with perpetual fpring. The buildings are of
ftone ; and thought fuperior to any in Peru ; while the gardens,
fquares, and cheerful entrances of the city, decorated with trees, re-
commend a refidence at Guamanga. The chief ti-ade is in leather,
grain, and fruit. In the diftriffc there is a fountain which, Uke the
baths of St. Philip in Tufcany, quickly impregnates a mould with a
Vrhite and tranfparent ftone. The ftate of the population of thefe two
cities is not given by Alcedo.

Guancavelica was founded in 1572 by the viceroy Don Francifco de
Toledo, fecond fon of the count d'Oropefa, whence he gave it. the
name of the Filla Rica d'Orope/a. It ftands in a quelrada or break
of the Andes, and is one of the largeil and richeft cities of the vice-
royalty. The temperature is very cold, and the climate changeable,
as it fometimes rains and freezes on the fame day, with tempefts of
thunder, lightning, and hail. The buildings are moftly of a kind of
tufa, found near a warm fpring in the vicinity. There is a dangerous
torrent which is paffed by feveral bridges. A grand mine of quick-
filverinthe neighbourhood was difcovered in 1563; it was managed
by a company of forty, who delivered the quickfilver to the king at a
certain price : but a fire in 17C0 dellroyed many of the works, and the
mine is fince in confiderable decay.

Jauja is only remarkable for fume manufaftures of vi'ooUen cloths and
ipines of filvcr.

Lambayeqiie is in a ploafant and fertile fituation, two leagues from
the fei, and bathed by a river of the fame name. The high road from
Piura to Lima paiTes through this towo. Some wine is made in the
vicinity and the poor are occupied in weaving coarfe cotton cloths.
The inhabitants are cllinialcd at more than 8000.

Caxamaica is a hirge and beautiful though irregiilar town, with more
than I2,oo:> inhabiuuts, and among them many illullrious families de-
fcended from tlic conquerors. The Indians of Caxamarca are reputed
the nioft iridutlrious \\\ the vicevoyalty. The cemperature is benign,
and the foil fertile ; and there are Icvoial mines in t!»e neijjhbourhood.
Here Atahualpa the lail inca was liain, and a ftoue is ilill (hewn in the
chapel of the prifon where he died, being formerly the file of his
palace. Towards the call arc warm butlis called the baths of the
Jncas.

lea is fuppofed to contain about 60CO fouls , and is chiefly remarkable
for a manufadture of glafs.

Guanuco or Huanuco was founded in 1539, under the name of Leon
of Guaauco, the lirit inhabitants being tlioie who, iu the broils of the

• Kfld!!a, XX.325.

Fizarios

JN SOUTH AMERICA.

€gg

Pizanros and Amagros followed the royal party. It was formerly a
coiifiderable city, but i^now, according to Alcedo, a mean village on
the royal road of the incas, with ruins of a royal palace and temple of
the fun. The fruits are excellent, and the conferTes much efteemed at
Lima. The church, three convents, and the defcendants of the con-
querors, are funk into great poverty.

Commerce.] The commerce of Peru has been treated with great
ability and at confiderable length, by Lequanda in the Mercuria
Peruana, whence Eftalla has borrowed moft of his information on the
recent ilate of this interefting country *. The fubjeA demands fuch
minute details that the curious reader muft be referred to the large
edition of this work.

Natural geography, &c.] The fingularform of this country
occafions great peculiarities in the climate. The fublime cin6lure of
mountains, extended on the wcftern fide of South America, occafions a
divifion into three parts, of the maritime plains or vallies ; the moun-
tains themfelves ; and the high table land or upland plain, between the
double ridge of the Andes •\. Where theory would expect perpetual
rain from the influence of the tropical fun, in the lower part of Peru, on
the contrary, rain is almoft unknown ; nay it i^ aflerted that in tbe part
between 5" and 15° rain has never been known to fall. The chain of the
Andes, of the medial height of 14,000 feet above the fea, arrefts the
clouds, except during the months of January, February, and March,
when the fummits are covered with fnow. Thefe clouds are fuppofed
%o have been canicd by the eaft winds from the Atlantic, but incapable
of pafiing this barrier, they diflblve on the mountains in rain and vapours,
accompanied with lightning and tremendous thunder. In the provinces
unvifited by rain the wind may be faid to blow conftantly from the
fouth, along the courfe of the Andes, correfponding with our north
wind which is generally dry ; the cold of the antar£lic pole being equal
if not fuperior to that of the ar6tic. Vegetation is fupportcd by liberal
dews throughout this region, computed at a length of 10** of latitude,
or 6co g. miles ; while the breadth may be twelve to fifteen leagues.
Difference of climate depends as much on the elevation or depreflion of
the country, as on zones, or latitude. While Choco is fo inundated
with rains as to be almoft uninhabited, and the fame inconvenience
attends Panama, and many of the provinces of Guatemala, (an addi-
tional proof of the termination of the Andes,) Bouguer obfervcs that
from the gulf of Guayaquil to the defart of Atacama. a fpace of 400
leagues, rain is unknown'; and tlie houfes at Arica, like thofe at Lima,
may be faid to have no roofs, being only covered with mats, and a light
fprinkling of afhes to abforb the dew of the night.

The high table land, that grand belt rtudded on both fides with the
fummits of the Andes, prefents a more fertile afpeft ; and from its
height of io,00Q feet above the fea enjoys a diifertnt climate. While
the low lands are rather fandy and barren, except along the courfe of
the rivers, the uplands may be faid to enjoy a perpetual fpring united
with a perpetual autumn. The ferocious animals and ferpents feek
warmer regions, and do iwt incommode this earthly, paradife ; which
however, as Providence generally balances advantages, Hands on an

* Eftalla, M. 209-- 341.

1" 1 he mountains of La Paz are prohibly the higheft in the Aivfes. On approachinf^ tl>e
foail at Arica, t'rezipr, i. 257, <ibft'rve(l liie inouutain of Tacoi*, rtaiing lis two fummiw
^uo the c]oud.4^ boir^ neat the ruaii tuwaris L» Paz.

• ^ ^ infidioui

'*\ 'l^iiiiifiiif

■n:

:'(':';

roo

SPANISH DOMINIONS

iiifidious foil, an arch of no great foUdity ; while in the cxtenfive and
tremendous void beneath are ftored inilruments of fudden deftruftion,
fulphur, fnbterranean fires and waters, and all the terrible materials of
earthquakes and volcanos *. The fields are perpetually verdant ; all
the grains, wheat in particular, wave in golden harvells ; and tlie fruits
of Europe bludi amidft thofe of the torrid zone. An equal warmth,
about 14"^ or 15° of the thermometer of Reaumur, diffufes health and
vegetation ; there is a perpetual equinox ; and the temperature remains
nearly the fame, the feafons being only dillinguiflied by the rains whieh
fall from November to May, as in the eallern foreils that fkirt the
Andes. The height of the mountains, it may be conceived, inveils
them with perpetual winter ; and the intenfe cold which is felt on the
Paramos or higheft defarts, and which is defcribed as being of a peculiar
kind, may probably in part proceed from the falls with which the foil is
impregnated, the nitre appearing like a light flour on the ilrcets and
highways, according to the obfervation of Bouguerf ; who has not
however drawn a ftriking inference, which is fubmitted to more expe-
rienced naturalifts. May not this extreme cold, arifing from an acci-
dental caufe, affed the inftruments employed and the obfervations, and
have thus led to a conclufion that the Andes are of greater height
than they would otherwife be eftimated ? As artificial ice may be pro-
duced by nitre; it is not inconceivable that vaft mafles of that fubftance
inay afFeft even the grand appearances of nature.

Face of the country.] The immenfe foreits which clothe the
maritime plains indicate that the population has always been fcanty ;
while theorilts have, in like manner, afcribed an infinite population to
ancient Germany and Scandinavia, countries overfhaded with thick
forefts : which is a mere coiitradidlion in terms. Thefe forefts have
their peculiar afpeft, confiding of acacias, mangle trees which fpread
their fantaftic ftems and roots along the ocean ; brooms and ferns in pro-
digious variety, with tall aloes and other fucculcnt plants. The ferula
or gigantic fennel grows to a furprifing fizc, and affords a wood four or
five times lighter than the lighteft pine, and yet of confiderable flrength.
Cedars of two or three kinds, cotton trees, many forts of ebony, and
other woods, alike precious by their fmell, and by the perfoft polifli
they alTume under the hand of the artizan. The tailed tree is the marla
which is ufed for mads ; and of the palm there are ten or twelve kinds
growing like enormous plants, while their broad leaves only decorate
their fummits. Moft of the trees fpread their roots along the furfacc,
but thofe of the palms often rife into the air mote than fix or feven feet,
forming a vegetable pyramid. At the diilance of feven or eight leagues
from the coalt the trees increafe in fize, .nre often clothed with para-
fitical plants, and attached by enormous creepers, while the voids arc
filled with thorny brambles, fometimes from twenty to thirty fet-t in
height. On pamng the fird chain of the Andes, which at a didance
threatens to prohibit the indudry or even exidence of man, the traveller
is furprifed with the new region before defcribed, and finds the face of
the country as different as the climate.

B0TANV.3 The botany of the Spanifli territories call of the Andes

• Thli cicfcription rh'iffly refers 10 Quito in the vii'crojnlty of New Granada. Thmijjh
the tahle land loniiuuca the fume, there docs nut B^>j>eajr to be any a£Uve volcano in tho

vicrroyaliy of Pf rii.

f Fi^^uie de k Tcrrr, p. lxtv«

l«

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

70f

h as yet wholly unknown to European fclence, it is only therefore from
analogy that we imagine the vegetables of thefe extenlive countries to
refembie thofe which are natives of Guiana and Brazil. For the indi-
genous plants of Peru and Chili, our only authority is the Flora Peru-
viana et Chilenfis of Ruis and Pavon, and of this work not more than a
fourth part is as yet publiOied. We know, from the reports of navi-
g'.'ors and occafional travellers, that the vicinity of the coalt produces
many of the tropical fruits and vegetables, inch as the cabbage palm,
the cocoa-nut, the chocolate-nut, the cotton rt)rub, the pine apple, tha
caniia, amomum, turmeric, plantain, and iugar cane. But in the more
temperate climate of the high plains, and upon the fides of the Andes,
it is natural to expeft plants of a hardier conftitution. Perhaps the belt
known and molt generally interefting of the trees are the feveral fpecies
of cinchona, from two of which, at lead that valuable medicine the Pe-
ruvian or Jefuits' bark is procured. Tiie cardana alliodora is a large
timber tree, remarkabK; "or the Itrong fmell of garlic eir.itted from the
leaves and frefli woo^ . A kind of coffee, the coffsa racemofa, is met
with in the mountainous groves of the interior, whofe berries are applied
to the fame ufe as the cultivated fpecies. The large flowered jeflaminc
and datura arborea diffufe their evening fragrance round the neighbour-
hood of Lima, and braided in the hair of the women give and receive a
reciprocal charm. No lefsthan twenty-four fpecies of pepper, and five
or fix of capficum, are reckoned among the Peruvian natives, befides
feveral efculent kinds of folanum, of which the S. lyco-perficon or love-
apple, and S. tuberofum or potatoc, are the bell known and mull
elleemed. The tobacco and jalap abound in the groves at the feet of
the Anches, and many of the ornamental flowers or our Englifli gardens
and green houfes, fuch as the fingular and beautiful calceolaria, the
rcfplendent falvia longiflora, the graceful tropaeolum or nallurtium, and
the fimple nolana proUrata, are indebted to thefe countries for their
origin.

Zoology.] The zoology of Peru is little different from that of
La Plata. The animals called the American lion and tiger, the cougar
\_puma'\ and jaguar of Buffon are not unknown, the latter being often
of great iize and ftrength. The theoretic and fyftematic difpofitions of
the French naturalid have led him to fingular reveries concerning the
diminutive fi/.e of the American animals, which have been abundantly
confuted by writers of more experience and obfervation. And while the
Tehuels or Patagons exceed in ftature and ftrength any inhabitants of
the ancient continents, the quadrupeds will alfo be found rarely to yield
in fize. The mountain cat aboundb in the forefts, always hunting in the
night, while its eyes ftiinc like fire, and will even attack men unawares.
A kind of deer called vrnadox abounds in the northern jjrovinces, and
the (kin has become, at lAimhayeque and Pinra, a new article of com-
merce, being found excellent for (hoes. There are feveral fmall animaU
refcmbling foxes, and having the fame propenfities; one kind is called
hedlonda^ becaufe, when chafcJ, by lluiking itfelf it diffufes fo naufcoui
a fmell, that the hunter is forced to flee with great trepidation. The
moft ferocious bearS are thofe of Piura. The cut is a kind of rabbit.
The /f/ow fecms between a dog and a wolf, ajid is dcftruftive to the
fugar canes. There is a fea fowl, with feathers on the body, while the
bare wings rcfen»blc thofe of the bat. The beautiful flamingo frequent*
the lakes ; and the brilliant pliunes of the royal goofe do not fave it
from dcftrudlion, the flefli being cxquifile, ns is that of the bandurrin,
another aquatic fowl. The cauunay i» luld iu the markets ; and our

author

] ■

*'*>m

96i

S1»AKISH DOMINIONS

author adds, that of the ^ones, which are blueifh, there is an equal con»
fumpt. Of the fi(h the pejefapo is the mott efteemed *.

The animal called the datita or gran bejiia [tapir] is known in Jaen
and Caxamarca, and fomewhat refembles a cow, though feldom larger
than an aft. On his front is a firm horn or bone with which he opens
his way among the underwood. The ant bear is another fingular animal.
The filk-weaving fpider abounds in Jaen, and Chachapoyas, in which
laft province they are as large as crabs, and the teeth larger than thofe
of a great «"atf . Nor muft it be forgotten that, in the newly difco-
vered regions of the Montana Real, there is a beautiful bird called the
carbuncle, about half a yard in height, of a moft exquifite plumage,
while the bread is beautifully fpotted. The Piras, a tribe among whom
it is found, call this grand bird the inocoyX*

Mineralogy.] Though the mineralogy of the Peruvian viceroyalty
has fuffered a confiderable diminution by the annexation of Putofi and
the fouthem provinces to the viceroyalty of La Plata ; yet the amount
of the coinage of Lima, which continues to exceed that of Potofi, may
«vince the great opulence that remains. From the extreme province of
Piura in the north, to that of Canes and Canches in the foutb, gold and
filver follow the grand chain of the Andes. In Piura muriate of copper
has been found in Hayabaca ; and fixteen leagues from the town of
Piura, at a village called Amatape, is a celebrated mine of pitch or
bitumen, which iupplied the viceroyalty for many yeats, the quintal
being fold from thirty-five to forty dollars, but another mine having
been difcovered at the point of St. Helena, in the jurifdidion of Guay-
aquil, the former is Icfs frequented.

The whole country of Peru may be faid to be one natural curionty.
The Andes themfelves, the intermediate plain, teem with the moil fub.
lime and furprifing objeAs in nature. It is probable that the rupture
of the genuine Maranon, falfely called the Ucail, through the Andes,
prefents a fpedacle of Angular grandeur ; and the newly explored region
called Montana Real has aftoniHicd the miffionaries by the peculiarity
of its produAions §•

• Eftalta, xxiii. 40. t !''• «»• 55. J lb. aof.

I Among the natural ourioritirs of Toiu mnft i»ot be fni^tieii a very fintrular prmluc-
tion of a kind of filk-wonn. This oatcrpillar feedn on the pnrae, ur vixmoia inga, a (tin*
mon tree in Peru. Inftrad of forming frparaic webs, they unite wiien iliry are fatiatcd
«u a broad branch, or tite trunk, where they form a regular and bruutiful welt, of a fne

ftroportloned to their number. Having rompleicd this cloth, which Hhs gnai Inrtre, and
iich confiftency that It is fcarcrly capable of decumpofnlon, they nrraiige theinfe'vt's in
flies, fo as tu form in the «'entre a pcrfrft fquare, where each nmkcs its cocoon ol a coarfe
flwrt filk, and bc<onies a chryfaliH Ijefore ii trunfmisrate into i\ moth. I'ineda, an eminent
mineftl.fgift in Feru, frnt to the Royal rabinct at Madrid a piece ol this iiuluiul filk [ a]K'r,
■buut • yard and a lutlf iii k-ngtii, the cuuiuiua fvam being ellii)tiral.

CHAPTER

tK SOUTH AMERICA.

!7«'3

CHAPTER HI.

' VICERCYALTY OF NEW GRANADA.

Extent. — Provinces. — Hijhry. — Government. — Population. — Reve*-
nues.-^ Cities and Toivm. — Commerce. — Natural Geography.—
Mines of Emeralds. — Natural Curioftties, — Supplement, Govern'
ment of Cak AC AS.

V B T 1 'TPHIS viceroyalty extends from the river Tumbez to
£-xTENT.j Ji^ ^^^ Caribbean fea; that is from S. lat. 3° 30' to N.
lat, 12**, being fifteen degrees and a half, oV 930 g. miles. The medial
breadth may be affumcd at four degrees, or 240 g. miles. The pro-
vinces forming the government of Caracas, namely Maracaibo, Vene-
zuela, Varinas, Cumana, and Spanifli Guiana, fliall be briefly defcribed
in a fupplement to this chapter. This grand viceroyalty, though it
dates from 1718, was, after a long fuppreffion, only finally cftabliflied in
1740. As the kingdom of Quito was annexed to this viceroyalty in
1718, and at no period formed a part of Peru, it is evident, that the
French and Spanifli aftronorner?, who v/eiit in 1735 to meafnre a degree
under the equator, have fallen into a fingular miitake in geography,
when they fpeak of their voyages to Peru : and the term would only
have been jull if tliey had vifitcd the high table land and the fummits
around La Paz, indicated by Helms as the higheft in the Andes. But
even at prefent the moft eminent alhonotncrs and naturalifts, too often
{hew their total unacquaintaiice with the fit (I principles of geography.

Provinces.] The grand and opulent viceroyalty of New Granada,
' fomctimcs called from the capital that of Santa Fc, contains the fol-
lowing provinces.

I ~

^ 7
8

9
10
II

The province of Jaen de Bracamoros \^ the moft fouthern of the vice-
royalty, and wai fubducd by order of Piz.^rro about 1540. Soma gold
it found in the mountains, while the plains produce cotton, excclknit
chocolate and tobacco. The diftri^t of Cucnca, fituatcd on the tabb
land of Quito, is of benign temperature, producing abundance of cattle,
fugar, cotton, and grain, and has confiderable manufaftures of cotton
clothi. The terrible earthquake of 1797, "hich totally ruined the city
of Riobamba, fo that of 9000 fouls only about 400 efcaped, fecms not
to h«Ye extended fo far fouth as Cuenca. Macas is a confiderable (pro-
vince on the eaftern fide of the Andes, whence the difference ol it a
feafuQi. Though within two degrees S. lat. of tlie equator, the winter

1 begins

Jaen de Bracamoros.

Loja.

Cuenca,

Macas.

Riohainla.

Gvayaquil.

Quito.

lacames.

Paps.

Barbacoas,

14 j/lnlicquia,
\') Sanltt /v.

16 San Juan de los Llanos.

17 Meridn.

18 Santii Maria.

19 Carihagena,

20 Z:tm.

2 1 Choco.

Tiic Tierra Firmct comprifing
three diftiidts.

Popayan,

Raposo.

Novita.

12 Darien,

23 Panama^ or Tierra Firme proper.

24 Veravtta.

B. I ' '

:ro4

SPANISH DOMINIONS

begins in April, and lafts till September, being the feafon of fpring on
the table land. The climate is warm and moill ; the chief produtt
tobacco, with fome fugar and cotton ; and the cinnamon is faid to excel
that of Quixos on the north. Guayaquil is a celebrated commercial
province : and the fcientific reader is familiar with Quito, the fcene of
grand aftronomical obfervations. The central provinces will be fiifii-
ciently illuftrated in the general defcription. That of San Juan de log
Lianoa forms a confiderable excrefcence to the eaft, if extended as far as
the Orinoco ; but as the capital town is on the weftern flcirts, the ex-
tenfion given by La Cruz feems very arbitrary, there being no Spanifli
fettlements in that direftion. Of the extreme provinces on the north,
Veragua, though politically annexed to Tierra Firme, geographically
belongs to North America, as allowed by all the SpaniHi authors. The
name of Tierra Firme Proper, given to Panama, is a term adopted for
the narroweft part of the American ifthmus, to denote that, however
narrow, it was firm land, or belonged to the continent: or rather becaufe
the name was applied indifferently to this and the adjacent province of
Veragua, afligned as a dukedom to Colon*, and were difcovered by that
great man to be certainly continental, when he explored the harbour of
Portobello, on his fourth voyage, 1502. The province of Darien is
extended on both fides of the gulf fo called ; and from the proximity
of the city of Panama, and a confiderable coall on that bay, reaches as
far as the diftriA of Zinu, with a length of fhore on the Caribbean fea.
The ruins of New Edinburgh are marked by La Cruz confiderably to
the weft of the gulf of Darien, a feeble memorial of the Scottifli fettlc-
ment f. This province, the largeft of thofe in the Tierra Firme, is
about 260 B. miles in length, by about 80 miles in medial breadth : but
is fingularly unhealthy on account of the perpetual rains, and Poitu<
he)lot though an advantageous (ituation, is nearly ruined ; nor have the
Spaniards, though ready to avail themfelves of advantages, been able to
form any eftabliflimcnts cither on the gulf of Darien on the Caribbean
fea, or that of San Miguel on the Pacilic. On the contrary, all the
ftations have been obliged to be withdrawn, except a little fort wliicli
protefts the gold mine of Cana, on the frontiers of Choco ; and the little
garrifon which comes from Panama, is changed every month. The
only produfts were fome cotton and tobacco. The favagcs of Darien
are fingularly wild and ferocious. In 1786 the viceroy of New Granada
' fent an expedition againft them, but the Spanifli troops could not bear
the climate. The Indians are fuppofed to amount to 30,000 fouls,
without chiefs, and acknowledging no authority, fo that it is impolTible
even to form a lafting treaty.

History, &c.] The ample provinces which form this viccroyalty
were chiefly difcovered by Quefeda, and th"e kingdom of New Granada
was at firft governed by the Royal Audience, founded in 1547 ; and by
its preiident the captain-general. This arrangement was changed in
1718, when the viceroyalty was erefted ; but it was fuppreflTed in 1724,
and only finally ellablinied in 1740. When the conquerors entered
there were cleAivc princes in Bogota and Tunja, the former being
ftyled zijia, the latter xaqiii or fachem ; and the country was more po-

• The ufo of thf> I.a«in trrm Ci'linnhm fometlmfis even hccJ'mcs rldirutous. Dr. Ro-
bi'i'lfon Imn Don Dlrgo ami Don Utrnando ('uhiniins, thus unuin? ^[Muilh aiui l.Hiin.
lie mi;;lit a» »vrM h.ivc faid Sir I'Vanris Dnikiux. 'I'hU u(Ti(J\utM 11 t-vrn i;ccs fo lar, ilut »
«CHii ircoirrupJifv ha« (lut I'tfpufiiis Anienrtvi::s for Aiiirrigo Vcf|i\irci !

t '1L« Piitrlu /•IfionJiJfj It ulf' cullc'l F.J'xt' i ami ihcre i» « cu]>c called Calcdmia.

pnloni

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

705

Jnik)iJ8 than thie generality of the native ftates. At prefent the want of
population is regretted, as hands alone are wanting to render this vice-
royalty one of the richeft in America. The government is fimilar to
that of the other viceroyalties ; with a Royal Audience at Santa F6
the capital, a tribunal of accompts, a treafury, and royal mint. The
Royal Audience is not divided, but fits in the fame hall for civil and
criminal cafes ; there being five judges, a fifcal, a prote&or of the
Indians, and other officers. The governments comprehended in the
Royal Audience, are Carthagena, Panama, Santa Marta, Maracaibo*
and Portobello, with the diftrift of the river Hacha : in the interior are
Antioquia, Choco, Veragua, Mariquita, Giron, Neiva, and the Llanos.
There is alfo a Royal Audience at Quito ; and a governor and prefident,
who rules the fouthern provinces in fubordination to the viceroy of Nevr
Granada. But Quito remains a bifhopric, while Santa Fe is an arch*
biOiopric, founded in 1562, with Popayan and Carthagena as fufFragans.
In 1783 the archbifliop was named viceroy, an example of great novelty*
and which proved httle beneficial to the country. There are alfo feveral
miflions in the country called Los Llanos, and on the Apuri, Meta, and
Cafanari, with fome little villages or ftations. Thofe on the upper and
lower Orinoco, and river Negro, afligned to the Capuchins in I'jCgg
belong to the government of Caracas.

Population.] The population of this viceroyalty has no where
been precifcly eftimated, but is infmuated, as already feen, t9 be more
fcancy than that of the others. In his defcription of the kingdom of
Quito, Alcedo has faid that it contains 552,800 catholic inhabitants*
not to mention the incredible number of favages ; but his accuracy is
far from being infallible, and he often copies ancient accounts, in which,
the ideas concerniirg population are extremely erroneous. Yet while
the general population of Caracas amounts to 728,000, it is probable
that rather more than one million may be allowed for that of this vice«
royalty.

Re /enues.] The revenues yielded by this province are alfo left in
obfcurity. By the account of Eltalla, there is annually coined at

Santa Fe to the value of - 1,200,000 aollars.

Popayau - « - . 1,000,000

> , a»too,ooo

being not more than one half of the produfl of the mint of Potofi, and
little more than one-third of that at Lima. Of this the king's tenth
will be 220,000 pounds, which is probably confumcd in the expence$
of the government. Further lights on the revenue will arife from the
article of commerce.

. The ftate of the military force in the viceroyalty of Santa T6 ha«
not been illuftrated, but it is probably inconfiderable ; and it would be
difficult in fuch dillant provinces to aggregate an effective force of five
or fix thoufand.

CiTiEB.] The capital is Santa T6 de Bogota, or at often ftyled
Bogota, in a fituation fufficiently central, near the river Funza, which
at the diftance of thirty-five Britifh miles, falls into the great river Ma?-
dalena. It was founded in 1 538 by Quefada the conqueror. Though
at a confiderable didance to the eaft of the grand chain of the Andes*
^K'hich palTes north to the province of Carthagena, between the rivers
Magdalena and Cauca } and tnough onlv four degrees from the equator, in
the heart of the torrid aone of the ancients ; the climate is unexpeAedlf

Z z nthsf

r-^>''. :

jo6

SPANISH DOMINIONS

rather cold. It Hands in a beautiful and fpaclous plain called Alcarazes,
and the foil is fufficiently fertile, being jprote6ted by another high ridge
of mountains on the eaft, branching off towards the province of Santa
Marta. It is a large and handfonne city, the ftreets being broad and
well laid out. There are four fquares and five bridges over two little
rivulets called San Francifco and San Auguftin, whole clear, frefli, and
healthy waters fpring from the eaftern mountains : and running weft
bathe the city and its plain, which is about twenty leagues in length,
and eleven in breadth, till they join the Funza, which pafles at the (Uf.
tance of a auarter of a league, and is alfo called the river of Bogota *,
The heat of the latitude being tempered by the fituation, all the year
may be called a perpetual fpring, with fuch abundance of produce that
there are two harvens ; that called yearly is fown in the end of February,
and gathered in July ; while the half'yearly is fown in September and
gathered in January. The ufual wind is the fouth, here called ubaqutt
from the name of a village on a mountain in that fituation ; and though
on the north of the equator it is fubtile and cold, like the winds from
that quarter in South America ; while on the contrary, the north wind
is cloudy, humid and tempeftuous {.

In the neighbourhood of this capital is the celebrated catarafl called
Tequendama, where the river Bogota or Funza falls from a prodi-
gious height, and of which a defcription is referved for the natural
curiofities.

Before proceeding to the other principal cities, it may not be impro-
per to give fome idea of a few central towns at no great diftance from
the capital ; and which from their pofition are lefs vifited by travellers and
lefs known to the general reader. Such are, towards the eaft ofBogota,
Tunja, Toca, Medina ; on the fouth, San Juan de los Llanos, Neiva ;
and towards the weft, Tocaima, Ibague, Mariquita', and Antioquia.

Tocaima, in the immediate proximity of the capital, was founded
in 1544) at fome diftance from the river Pati, (being the fame, which
nearer its fource is called the Bogota:]:,) not far from its confluence
with the river Magdalena. The fituation is bad, expofed to great
heats and numerous venomous creatures ; nay, it is even deftitute of
water, though La Cruz have placed it at the confluence of the rivers
Magdalena and Pati. But the diftrift is extremely fertile in cacao,
tobacco, fugar, maize, yucas,. plantains, potatoes, &c. and the fifli are
abundant in the rivers of Bogota and Fufagafuga, though there be
many alligators. The inhabitants, about 700, are moftly poor. There
are mines of excellent copper, which are not worked.

Tunja, founded in 1539, was fonnerly an opulent town, but has,
now declined, the inhabitants not exceeding 400. The edifices bear X.
marks of former fplendour, and the parif^ church might well ferve for
a cathedral. There are three convents, which might verv ufefuUy be
converted into manufaftories. Toca is in a cold, but healthy climate,
fituatcd in a beautiful plain, producing wheat and maize, and there are
manufadures of woollen cloth ; the inhabitants about 200, half being
Indians. It was formerly the refidence of the fourth elector of the
%aqui, or king of Tuoja. Medina was £Dunded in 16701 in a warm

'Eflalla, xm'u. 979. Toleti in voce.

f EiUlla ohr<>rves that (he flrceis are twelve vena or yarda in breaddi j anJ the cUy U
In length *i5 manzatuu or quadras, aitrl twelve in bnadtb. The quadia he oftrii ufu
in dcfcribirig the Czeuf citiei, yet I cannot find an expbuiation. Ulloa, i. sai, fay* that
die quadia it coinmunly 100 yardi, the general diftanci betwMO the corner of one fireet
Midanotlter in Ainrrica) but that it it a vajur nuafurvi

X Kflslla, XKiii. 69.

climate,

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

7»7

climate) abounding with wild cacao treesy maize, yucas, plantains.
In the neighbourhood there is a mine of black fait) in a hard rock*
ufed by the neighbouring villages to give to their cattle to lick.

San Juan de los Llanos is the capital of a large nominal province fo
called, confiding of prodigious plains, extending for two or three hun-
dred leagues. The town was founded in i^SS* ^^^ ^^^ formerly cele-
brated for eold mines now dechned ; and the inhabitants fcarcely exceed
fifty. Neiva was founded in 15^0, but being deftroyedby the Indians,
was rebuilt in 161 2, on the banks of the great river Magdalena. The
foil is fertile ; there is abundance of cattle, and fome gold mines ; the
population being about 2000, of ' hom the greater part confifts of
people of colour. Ibague contain about 400 inhabitants, of whom
one half are Indians. Mariquita is called a city, and was formerly
celebrated for the rich mines of gold in the vicinity ; there being on
the weft thofe of Bocaneme, and San Juan de Cordova, bordering on
thofe of Hervi, Malpafo, Guarino and Puano ; and on the eaft, the
filver mines of St. Anna, Lajas and Frias ; the filver, however, bein^^
mingled with the pureft gold, but of difficult feparat^on. This city*
formerly opulent, is reduced to 300 inhabitants ; a great difadvantage
of mines in general being their failure, while thofe engaged in them are
feldom accuftomed to other branches of induftry. Quefada, the con-
queror of New Granada, died at Mariquita in 1597, but his body has
been transferred to the cathedral of Santa Fe.

Antioquia is the capital of a province fo called, highly celebrated for
the rich mines of gold ; but its prefent ftate and population have not
been explained. This rapid glance on the interior provinces will (hew,
that the mines have not much benefited this viceroyalty; and there
feems to be fome peculiar defe£l either in the localities, or in the
management of this pare of the Spanifh dominions'^'.

But there are feveral important cities in various quarters of New
Granada and its dependencies. The celebrated city of Quito, is faid
by Alcedo to contain not lefs than 58,000 inhabitants, Spaniards^
creols, people of colour, and Indians ; there beinj^r among the former
fix with the title of marquis, one with that of count, and many knights
of the military orders. The creols of Quito ai-e docile, humane,
courteous, liberal, hofpitable, and of confiderable capacity. Even
the Indians are celebrated for their (kill in painting and fculpture. The
temperature being uniform, the fame clothing is worn throughout the
year; but this advantage is balanced by the Sequent earthquakes, and
that of 1775 was very deftru6tive. A body of militia has been efta>'
bliihed fince the popular tumult in 176c. This celebrated city having
been defcribed by the French mathematicians, and by Ulloa, who has
given a plan, it is unneceflary to enlarge on a trivial topic.

The upland plain to the fouth of this city, crowned with numerous
volcanoes, and the high mountain of Catopacfi, has been already men-
tioned, and frequently defcribed as a terreftrial paradife.^ On the
fourth day of February 1797, a quarter before eight o'clock in the
moniing, the moft terrible earthquake commenced that had been known
fince the conqucll f. At Quito little damage was fuftained, but th«
fubterraneouB thunder, and the (hocks repeated every fix hourtf

/^\%'

* It tppetn from the obftrvattoni of Lequtnik, thtt all the citiet . and |t«wna between
Canhagena and Lima have declined finct the. trade by the gallaoni wu abandoned. The
|OTemmei>t ought to invigontte them by evenr affiiUnce.

t See* letter from Quito, dated aoth February 1797, publiibcd by £flalla,vol.xUi.

2 s a ocoafioDcA

')o8

SPANISH DOMINIONS

occafioned nnceafing horrqrs and difmay. On the fifth, in the eveninjTf
it was known that Latacunga, and all the hamlets in its correglamento
were ntterly deftroyed, not one ftone remaining upon another. Many
perfons periflied, and the ftench of the dead bodies infeifted the furvi-
vors. Near Ambato many mountains fplit, and by their fudden fall
occafioned yet greater deftruftion among the human race. Quero
with all its people, was buried in one inftant, by a cliff which fell on
the town. Pelileo was overwhelmed by a ftream of water and mud •
the circumjacent lands were all tranfpofed ; and the deadly filence del
dared the general ruin.

The elegant town of Riobamba became one heap of ruins and defo-
lation, and foon totally difappeared ; for the peak of Sicalpa falling on
the town, and flopping the two rivers which pafs by it, formed a lake
To that even the ruins were not vifible. Of nine thoufand inhabitants
only about four hundred cfcaped. Alaufl and Guaranda have alfo
fuflered greatly. The fate of Cuenca, Loja, Jaen, and Guayaquil
was at that time unknown ; but the fhocks do not feem to have ex!
tended fo far. The caufe feems to have proceeded from the volcano
Tungarunga *, as the tremendous fubterraneous thunders all proceeded
from that quarter, and the greatefl ruin was in its vicinity : towards
the north the earthauake was faintly perceived at Patto.

Fopayan, founded in 1536, on a delicious plain, is an ancient
bifhopric, fuffragan of the archbifhop of Bogota. The whole inhabi-
tants do not exceed 8000 fouls. The town is in the form of a fquare
with regular flreets, and handfome buildings. Though rain and flormt
be not unfrequent, there may be faid to be a perpetual fpring. The
drieft months are June, July, and Auguft, when the fouth winds blow
from the fnowy mountains, and high defart of Purafi, diftant half a
day's journey. Amo.ig abundance of fruits, the chirimoya is the moft
delicate, and fometimes weighs ten or twelve pounds. In the neiwh-
bourhood is a height covered with trees, called the M, becaufe it has
the form of that letter : and the town is furrounded with the river
Maulino, over which there are two bridges; the great river Cauca,
already "deep and rapid, though not far from its fourcc, pafTes at the
di/lance of a quarter of a league ; and in 1768 a bridge of one arch
was thrown over a narrow part of the river. The inhabitants of
Fopayan are of noted integrity.

Guayaquil is another confiderable city, in the fouthcm part of this
viceroyalty. It was founded in 1532 j but afterwards transferred to its
prefent pofition on a river of the fame name. Tiiore is an unhealthy
marfh in the vicinity, which infedts the city with peftilential vapours,
and where delinquents often efcape from juflice ; fo that the draining
' of this marfh, by a deep canal, is advifeable on all accounts.

On advancing to the north of this viceroyalty, the towns of Panama
and Portobello lirfl folicit attention. Panama was the feat of a Royal
Audience, abandoned in 1752; and the fire in 1756, and the total
decline of commerce, have reduced this city to a mifi^rable fituation.

The dangers of the road between Portobello and Panama, occafioned
by mountains, precipices, marfhcs, continual rains, horrible ftorms,
dangerous fords, and above all the infinite number of venomous fnakes,
can fcarcely be conceived } yet the mulattoes frequent it much on foot,
and even regard the paiTage as a kind of amufement f . Some huts are

* TIte Tungungin of other writert) bttWNn Lttacvnga ud RiubanU. Paflo ii at
the cliftance oi' about aoo g. nulM.

found,

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

7C9

found, where they fleep on ftraw, and the leaves of trees, taking care
to clean the floor and llop up all paffages for the fnakes. The journey
commonly occupies three days. Panalna is ftill a ftrong city, but after
its fall by the lofs of the galeons, was almoft completely ruined by a
terrible conflagration in 1784. Its only remaining trade is with the
villages in its jurifdiftion, and with the province of Veragua, the goods
being received by Portobello, moftly from Carthagena ,; the veflels from
Peru commonly return empty. The neighbouring mountains produce
excellent wood, efpecially the mod efteemed mahogany (caoba), and
cedar, with many precious balfams. The fpirit of trade ridiculoufly
maintains itfelf, even the chief inhabitants of both fexes felling baubles
and trifles by means of their flaves ; and they call this commerce, while
it is rather the game of commerce. The royal cheft cannot even pay
the garrifon, which is now defrayed from Carthagena. Some excellent
gold is found in the mines, or rather lavaderos of Santa Rita, but the
pearl fiflicry is almoft abandoned. The voyage to Guayaquil is (hort
and eafy, and the paflage of the line rather accompanied with calms«
while in the Atlantic it is efteemed dangerous. This circumftance may
have led to the name of the Pacific Ocean, given by the Spanifli con-
querors of Mexico and Peru, before Magalhaens had felt its tempefts.
The north pole and conftellation of the Lefler Bear foon become in-
vifible, though the needle point towards them ; and the fouthern pole
arifes marked with four bright ftars in the (hape of a crofs.

Portobello, formerly celebrated, has alfo declined, though in the
time of the galeons a rich and populous city. The derelidion of
that mode of commerce has alfo greatly impoverifhed all the cities and
towns between Carthagena and Lima. Portobello however is not fo
fickly, fince a paflage was cut through a hill to admit the air *.

Carthagena, once fo celebrated, has alfo greatly declined. That
part of the haven called Boca Grande feems gradually to widen by the
dRux of the water, which enters by the Boca Ch'tcat fo that an enemy
might have approached without encountering the terrible fortrefles on
the latter ; but in the year 1777, this inconvenience was prevented by
new works of furprifing fize and folidity. The want of a quay was
alfo feverely felt, till one was conftru£ted by an individual, where are
landed the provifions brought from Lorica, the rivers Zinu, Magdalrna,
and other places. The city has alfo been increased and adorned, the
new houfes being of elegant and folid architecture, and neatly furniflied.
The gloomy cathedral has been enlivened by enlarged windows ; but
the decorations are ill difpofed, and fliew the want of tafte generally
prevalent in commercial towns. The bifliop Perez who, in 1793, was
trandated to Quito, fliewed however confiderable fpirit in the improve-
ments. Since the freedom of commerce, luxury has made a con-
fiderable progrefs in Carthagena, and European fafliions prevail f.
The mulatto women, and wives of artifans, mftead of the mantilla,
wear a cotton veil ftriped with various colours ; while the ladies are
diftinguiOied by the finenefs of their drefs, efpecially of their ftockings
and flioes. Mufic and dancing alfo prevail ; and the harpficord and
fong are heard as in the moft civilized cities of Europe,

Santa Marta was founded in ISS%* and has a good haven defended
by two forts, but has confiderably declined, the houfes being now
moftly of wood, covered with ftraw. This was the place of arms of
^ueladat the conqueror of (}ew Granada } and was reduced to afliet

■Jh,'

Efttlb, uii. 347*

2« 3

t lb, xxU. i)0«.

ia 159$

7IO

SPANISH DOMINIONS

ill 1596 by Sir Francis Drake. Piedrahita, who has written a hiftorv
of the conqueft cf New Granada, was bifliop of this city. The port
is large ana convenient, protefted by lofty ridges, and has in front a
round hill, which defends the city on the fide of the fnowy mountains
at the diftance of three leagues. Thcfe mountains, clothed with per!
petual fnow, may be regarded as the termination of the main chain of
the Andes, which paffes, accompanied with its ufual mineral opulence
between the rivers of Magdalena and Cauca, as already explained.

Commerce.] It has already been feen that the commerce of this
viceroyalty has fuffered by the fuppreifion of the galeons, and has
not yet even refumed its vitality, though encouraged by the freedom
granted in 1778. The contraband trade, carried on by the EngHfh
on the Mufquito fhore, and from the Portuguefe fettlements in Brazil
not to mention the Caribbean fea, has alfo impeded the exertions of the
Spanish colonifts.

Natural geography.] The climate of this extenfive viceroyalty
prefents infinite variety ; for though lying under, and in the near vicini-
ty of the equator, t^e vaft and fublime chain of the Andes, running
N. and S. from the table land of Quito and Cuenca, to the Caribbean
fea and environs qf Santa Marta, occafions every diverfity from the
fnow and ice of the poles, to the rain and heat of the tropics. While
the ancients conceived the torrid zone totally uninhabitable, on account
of the vertical fun, the theoretic geographer might be frozen to death
on the fummit of a mountain, or drowned in the continual torrents of
rain. But God creates worlds, and man creates theories. In the
dreadful pafs of Gouanacas N. lat. 2° 34', between Popayan and the
little town of Plata, the traveller traverfes the eaflern chain of the
Andes, which continues its progrefs between the rivers Magdalena and
Cauca> maintaining its grandeur and chief altitude till it expire in the
fnowy mountains of Santa Marta, or, according to our author, at the
junction of the two great rivers juft mentioned *. Though the greateft
precautions are ufed, yet, for the fpace of two leagues, the road was
found fo much covered with the bones of travellers who had periihed,
that it was impofllble to fet down one's foot except upon thefe terrible
memorials. To the S. of this pafs, is the lofty volcano of Cocunucu,
and towards the N. the mountain of Houila equally clothed with fnow.
At lefs than a hundred fathoms diftance, appear the fource of the
Cauca on one fide, and that of the Magdalena on the other, prodigious
rivers, evincing the extreme altitude of this part of the chain : and
thougli the road from Popayan to Plata be only twenty leagues, from
twenty to twenty-two days are employed, fo great are the dimcultiesof
the road, fo terrible the climate encountered within two degrees of the
equator ! Even the clknatc of Bogota, the capital, as already mentioned,
may be accufed of culd ; and the defart heights of Albarazin on the E.
temper the fervours of the tropical fun.

Seasons.] The names of lummer and winter expire under the tro«
pics, where, if mountains do not interfere, there are only the wet and
dry feafons ; and the former, which is called winter, is often of fuperior
warmth.

Rivers.] The great rivers Magdalena and Cauca rife and terminate
in this viceroyalty. According to the map of La Cruz, the very
fources are confiderable ftreams, perhaps the ilTuesof fubterranean waters,
from the vait cavity under the table land, where the volcanos often pour

* Bouguer, Figure de ta Tmt^ p. Iv.

•Ut

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

711

out dellru£iive torrents of water and mud ; but the natural hiftory of
thefe rivers has been little illuftrated, and the completidn of Mr. Hum-
boldt's work is impatiently expected. The navigation of the Cauca^
between Popayan aind Antioquia^ is rendered dangerous by winding
rapids, whicn however the Indians pafs in their canoes. The Magda-
lena, as already mentioned, is a majedic navigable ftream, the Danube
of New Granada.

Botany.] The botany of New Granada has not been duly illuf-
trated, though it be faid that Bogota is the refidence of an eminent
botanilt. The labours of Mr. Humboldt will, no doubt, leave little to
defire on this fubje£t. Some of the moft ufeful vegetable productions
have already been fpecified *.

Bouguer has defcribed the celebrated fruit called chtrmoya» as
often larger than the largeil apple, while the rind is not ftronger
than that of the fig, and the colour a little deeper ; but it is as it were
engraved, or marked with little fcales, while the pulp is white and fi-
brous, but exquifite.

The Ceroxylon ulndicoht or wax palm, grows on the Andes, at
the height of eighteen hihidred yards to two thoufand nine hundred
yards in the country between the valley oT the Magdalena and Cauca.
The fpace on the trunk between the rings left by the fall of the
leaves, is covered about one-fifth of an inch thick with a natural mixture
of refin and wax, in the proportion of two of the former to one of the
latter. »

The Mattjia cordata grows wild and cultivated in New Granada and
Peni. It bears a large truit like an apricot. . ^ , ..>

The Myrtus microphylla, a beautiful evergreen^ (hrub, grows near
Loxa in Peru f .

Zoology.] The animals are in general fuch as are common to the'
whole continent of South America, and the fcientific reader will con-
fu'*. the work of Azara. The tapir, (the danta of the Spaniards, the
anta of the Portuguefe,) is well known, as are feveral kinds of wild
boars and deer; the ant-eater is not uncommon. The jaguar, called
the American tiger, though he appear to be fpotted and not ftriped, is
the mod ferocious and dreaded animal, and attains a great fize ; while
the puma, of an uniform colour like the lion, rarely attacks mankind.
The wild cats of two or three kinds are little dangerous ; and in gene-
ral the mufquitoes and other noxious infers are more to be dreaded
than quadrupeds. Bears are familiarly mentioned by the Spanifh wri-
ters, but they probably mean the ant-eater, as Alcedo fpecifies ; and.
it may be difficult for an exa£t naturalift to trace the black or brown
bear in thefe climates i ; nor does that animal feem even known in
Chili, if we judge by tne account of the accurate Molina. The bears
found in North America feem to have paffed on the Ar<^ic ice from
Alia and Europe. Serpents of enormous flze, fuch as the iuia or

-I tost
•'-'III' •

*«Ss

* Tlie balfain of Tolu 11 Co called from a village in the province of Carthagena. Among
the beautiful woods are the muzo (beaked with red and black, the guayaiia with grey and
black ; and many other kinds, which, if lalhiou permitted, wonid tar outihine tlie maho-
gany. The bell cochineal it from Sogaraofo. 'fliere are palms fo liigh tS.at the frtut
ctimot be gathei-ed except by the birds. The varaifh caU«l mopamopa is the rcfio of »
tree in the diftriA of Palb>, and is ikid to equal the Chinefe. Eftalla, xxiii. 38.

t Humboldt.

X In the charming romance of Robinfon Crufoe, d« Foe feems to ufe a poetical lioenct
when he makes Fricbiy kill bean in his own country.

Zz4 ioh.

"'Pi

■1

1; i

71*

SPANISH DOMINIONS

loia, are found in the marfhes ; and the cayman or alligator fwarms in
the rivers *.

Mineralogy.] The mineralogy of the viceroyalty of New Grana-
da is far from being unimportant. Alcedo obferves that gold is here
more abundant than in any other part of America ; and in Antioquia,
and feveral other towns, no other money is known. The richeft pro-
vinces in gold mines are thofe of Choco, and Antioqnia, which are
alfo eafily accefllble by the rivers Atrato and Guacuba, which enter the
gulf of Darien, and are navigable for a confiderable extent f . Silver
is alfo remarkably pure ; and the mines of Marquetones, in the diftrift
of Pamplona, aie fo rich, that, if there were a fufficient number of
labourers, they might rival thofe of Potofi, as they fometimes yield
eight marks of filver in the hundred weight. Copper and lead alfo
abound, but are defpifed. There are mines of beautiful emeralds in
the diftri£t of Muzo, fuperior to thofe of Somondoco in the diftrid of
Tenza ; and in thefe mines are alfo found pantaurast (a kind of precious
ftone not defcribed,) of various colours, with grains of gold in the
interior. Alcedo adds that in the mines of Antioquia, and Guamoco,
diamonds are found among the lumps of gold, but are of a fmall fize ;
with jacints and beautiful garnets. The river Hacha has always been
celebrated for its pearls, and Timana for amethyfts and pantaurasi
while Pamplona, Sufla, and Anferma, boait of their turquoifes, gira-
fols, gallinazos, or obfidian, and mapulas |.

Eftdlla adds that the filver mines of Mariquita and Pamplona
bave been abandoned, and that gold alone is coined at the mint
of Bogota §. Copper is found in the diftridt of Velez, but is little
worked, from the want" of machinery and miners. The province of
Darien having been abandoned to the Indians, the gold mines are moitly
loft.

Emeralds.] Muzo, the feat of the celebrated mines of emeralds,
is in the diftridi of Tunja ; and 200 families, which inhabit it, are chicHy
occupied in availing themfelves of this precious advantage. In 1 764 the
viceroy of Peru ordered thefe mines to be examined ; and the veins,
which had difappeared, having been found, the labour was ordered
to be refumed on account of the royal treafury. This lingular and
celebrated mine is in the mountain of Itoco, at the diftance of three
leagues from Muzo ; which is diftant about 50 B. miles to the north
from the capital. There are alfo in the neighbourhood of Muzo fome
mines of copper. Muzo is fupplied with provifious from, the neigli-
bouring town of Ebate.

Mines.] In the time of UUoa the province of Papayan abounded
in mines of gold, the richeft being thofe of Cali, Buga, Almaguar,
and Barbacoas ; and there were alfo feveral mines of that metal in the

* Near Punta, on the road of Guayaquil, was formerly found the purple ihell filh of-
the anrieiits, and it was ufcd as a dye.
f Eflalla, xxiii 74.

j Alted'j mentions that the mnpula it a precious flone found in the mines of Anferma;
and that the pantaura is of a clear amethyft colour, pervaded within with littlt llrcukit of |^
deep crimfon.
_, Colcti gives the following lift of t^c mouQtaipa io the viceroyalty of New Granada :
Al)il)ea Fofca

Abipi Gaclianrque

,' Bocaneme, Minet^Jtlvet |t«(!Oj Mine of emeraldt, -

Buritaca, Mine of guid

f £Aalia> xxU. aaa.

:■ ■■'* '.'.'. noted

* La Cruz has

t EHalla, xnil.

+ Figure de la
]^obaWe that Eftal
i'l'anifli authors re
Vear no proportion
i.« about 15orl6|e
Magdalena ; and tij,
pore muft be even

^ Tbcxevecati

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

71J

noted diftria of Choco, fome of which were abandoned on account of
the abundance of platina, a more rare and fingular metal than gold, but
at firft, as appears from our author and Bouguer, miftaken for an ob-
durate pyrites. Other gold mines were near Zaruma, within the jurif-
diftion of Loxa ; and Tome in the government of Jaen Bracamoros.
Near the village of Angamarca, in the jurifdidion of Latacunga, wa»
a mine of prodigious value. That rare and fmgular metal called platina
is ftill believed to be a peculiar product of Choco. It is generaHj-
found in minute pallets, but Humboldt is faid to have brought a piece
more than an inch in length.

Natural curiosities.] Natural cuiiofities abound in this exten-
five viceroyalty ; and there are fingular features, from the upland plaia
of Quito to the environs of Santa Marta. The volcano of Duida, men-
tioned in the general defcription of South America, is in Spanilh Guiana*
which rather belongs to the government of Caracas ; and no volcanoes
feem to be known in the two grand chains of the Andes which pafs to
the W. and E. of Bogota *. Thofe of Quito have been already
defcribed ; and Humboldt informs us that even fome caverns throve
out flames, and fometimes large plains are hollow. In 1766, after
earthquakes that lafted for eleven months, a plain opened on all fides
ejediing fulphureous water and bitumen. But a more pleafing natural
curiofity occurs in the neighbourhood of the capital Bogota, where the
river of the fame name, alfo called the Pati and Funza, falls from a
height of 220 feet according to Eftalla f ; but according to the accu*
rate Bouguer this cataradl is one of the highell in the world, as it muft
be two or three hundred fathoms in height, and the fall is vertical f.
Alcedo, who is often copied by Eftalla, ekprefsly fays that the height
is 2iOe/laJos, or fathoms of lix feet each, which being corroborated by
Bouguer, the real height of this ftupendous catarad is probably about
1320 feet§. The river Funza, which is even here very confiderable,
paifes along a narrow channel on a high table land, and is poured, as
Ironi the fpout of a vafe, in one arch of the enormous height above
cxprefled, the noife being heard at the diftance of feven leagues. This
fall is received in a vaft cauldron of tnorc than a league in circumference ;
and the quantity of the water, and violence of the defcent, form a con-
tinual mafs of clouds, which renders it fcarcely vifible iu the evening ;
but in the morning it is more ftriking, being decorated with numerous
rainbows according to the pofition of the fpedtator. The vaft rocks,
which form the cauldron, alfo excite admiration, being as regular and
polifhed as if cut with a chiffel ; the furrounding heights are covered with
trees, (hrubs, and flowery plants, while the fpleiidid appearance of fome
of the birds, and the mufic of others, render the cataradt of Tequen-
idama al^kc fublime aod beautiful. ^ » uj

* La Cruz hai ciarked the volcano of Ebojito about 80 B. mUes W. of Andoquia,

f Eflalia, xxii. asi.

X Figure de la Tcire, xci. As the 'ioo fathom of Bouguer make 1200 feet, it it
jtfobable that £(lalla» or hiii printer, has for doce or twelve, put dos or two ; and all th«
2S|)anifii authors reganlin:; tiiis fall as what they call a pro<ligy of nature, the 200 feet can'
Vear no proportion to fuch expreffions. Bout^uer inlbrms us that this woiiderhil catarad):*
is about 15 or 16 leagues hcneath the city of Bi>gota, and about eight leagues from the river
Magdalena ; and tliat the city of Bogota i'; about, 8400 feet above the level of the in&f fo thtit
jiicre muft be even here a high table h.nd. :

^Jhwvec&iu!i&Mialu\yttfli,-l,Oofect, See Y«l« i* P- 637> . "

! Stilt r

Hi .a"

-'ill:!'?

:'1llf «?

SPANISH DOMINIONS

SUPPLEMENT.

eOVERNMENT OF CARACAS.

Extent. — Population. — Manners. — Governmeni.-^Hoyal jfuJtente. —
Dtfence. — ProduSs. — Commerce. — Revenues. — Cities andTowns —
Natural Geography — SPANISH GUIANA,

ExTEHT.lT^^^ government of Caracas is fo called from the chief
_ *-' JL town Leon de Caracas, butjwas properly the indigenal
appellation of a tribe in that auarter. The hft of captains-general
or governors of Caracas may be found in Alcedo's work ; and extends
from 1528, when Alfinger conquered the countiy for the Welfers, (a
German mercantile houfci to whom Charles V. had afligned the pro*
perty, ) till the year 1 785. The chief or largeft province was originally
called Venezuela, or Little Venice, from a village of the favages in
the lake of Maracaibo ; but the government now comprifes the adja«
cent provinces of Maracaibo, Varinas, Cumana (including Barcelona),
Spanifh Guiana, and the ifle of Margarita. The govemnient, in this
extent, has exifted Hnce 1730, and the governor acknowledges no
fuperior except the king. The province ofMerida is merged m that
(Dt Varinas ; and the name of New Andaluiia has been properly
exchanged for that of Spanifli Guiana ; while that part of Brazil whicn
is to the N. of the Orinoco has begun, not improperly, to aflume the name
of Portuguefe Guiana. The eftablifliment of the Royal Audience of
Caracas, when the Spanifh part of Hifpaniola was refi|^ncd to the French,
further afcertained the clear jurifdiAion and boundaries of Caracas.

Conquest.] In 1498 Colon infpe6tcd that part of the coaft called
Paria, on the weft of the ilrait called by him the Dragon's Mouth ; but
little progrefs was made in the fettlement till Charles V. fold the coun.
try to the Welfers of Augfburg, who were difponbfled about 1550.
The chief conqueror was Lofado, who founded the city of Caracas
in 1567.

Population, lice] The following table of the population is givea
by Dcpons, but the round numbers rather infer fomc exaggeration.

Venezuela, including Varinas
Maracaibo -

Cumana *

Spanish Guiana
lue of Margarita m

500,000
100,000

80,003

54.000
14,000

728,000

Govern MKNT.] The regulations of the Spanifh colonies have already
been explain' 1, and the profound policy by which they arc kept depen-
dent on the parent country ; while the Englifli freedom and induftry
rendered our colonies almoit independent { and the French only regar-
ded a colony as a fituation to acquire fome wealth which they Mrere eager
to enjoy in Europe. The gover/ior of Caracas reprefents the monarch
throughout the provinces of Maracaibo, Varinas, Caracas, Cumana,
Spanifh Guiana, and the ifle of Margariu { all the military department

being

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

7iy

being completely fubje£fc to his , orders, though on great occafions he
confults a Junta de Guerra, or council of war, compofed of the chief
officers. There are howerer delegated governors for each province*
appointed for five years, with a lawyer as an afleflbr. Though the gover-
nor-general is prefident of the audience* the place is merely honorary*
as he has no vote nor voice. The whole fyftem is fubjefted to the
Council of the Indies in Spain, and as he is obliged to render an account
of his adminiftration, a£ls of defpotifm are extremely rare ; and equity
is inculcated by a prohibition to purchafe property, to trade, marry*
or form any connexions in the colony. The falary of the governor-
general of Caracas is nine thoufand dollars a year ; and he is generally
appointed for feven years. The account which he is obliged to render
of nis adminiftration is by the Spaniards called Jar reftdenctat and is a
grand example worthy ot imitation. A commiifary, generally a lawyer*
18 named by the kin? to receive this account ; and be gives notice that,
at fuch a time and puice, the Court of Enquiry will be held, where all

Eerfons whatever, particularly Indians, who may confider themfclves to
ave been aggrieved by their late viceroy or governor, (hall be heard,
and their complaints redrefTed. A governor is obliged to remain fixty
days ; and other fixcy days are required to *hear and decide the com-
plaints : but a viceroy mud remain for fix months : nor can any new
fituatioii be obtained, except upon a certiii(5ate that they have pafTcd
the forms and term of their refidcncc.

Royal audience.] The Royal Audience of Caracas was cfla-
bliHied in 1786, and its power extends overall the provinces included
in the captaincy. BcfiJes the governor, as honorary prefident, there
is a regent, with 5300 dullars a year, three oidors, or judges, each 3300 ;
two fifcals, civil and criminal, a recorder, and a grand aiguazil.

Prodvcts.J While the line of mountains along the coail prefents
gneifs, granite, and other barren rocks, with the fmgular circumftance
of rivers that rife near the fea and ilow inland, in the interior the culti-
vable foil of the plains, expofed to the folar heat, only prefents paf-
turage for beeves, horfes, and mules ; and the vales are of all other
parts the moft fertile. The cacao or chocolate tree dreads the rays of
the fun, and is proteAed by trees of taller growth. To this main arti-
cle of cultivation indigo was added in 1774 by a worthy clergyman ;
and cotton in 1782. The fugar cane of Otahcitc began to be tried in
1 796, but is found of little advantage, as though larger, the juice is
not of equal ftrength. Tobacco forms another article of culture *.
Yet with all thefe rich produds few planters are worth more than four
or five thoufand dollars a year; and the Frencli ifland of St. Domingo
ufed to produce ten-fold the quantities yielded b^ all the provinces of
Caracas. The high intercft of money ; pious legacies of yearly amount,
whatever be the crop ; the habit of refiding in towns ; tne fooIiHi
ambition of idle offices, and the confequent contempt of induftry and
agriculture ; and above all, according to our author, the want of a
fufficient fupply of negroes, are the caufes of this deficiency. A board

* Among tht produAs of Venczupla, Eflalla, xx!ii. Ii9, mfntloni mnize, pluitaini,
jnvu, potatoe*. ruras ; and giiamrs, t kind of mot fo onomiotii as fumetime* to weigh
twnnty-nvo pound*, and mfy Itc ealcii for many day* without fpoiling. Alcedo ha* given
an account of the igtmrn, whirl) i« ailt) found in Africa ; tite (izu fecnu to depend on the
richnebof foil, it i* of a dark jmrple colour approaching to black, and the fubfUnc* re-
fembles the poutae < it is multiplied 1)^ cutting the top Into four parts, tad slanting then

•t the diltinre of tbtc« vr lour fact, and the rout is rip* in (Ix rounlM.

«»*.>■

•f

7i6

SPANISH DOMINIONS

of agriculture would be of fupreme utility, and might even aflift the
Royal Audience, by judging in a fummary way the little law faits on
irrigations, encroachments, the pay of workmen, the treatment of
(laves, which at prefent occupy half its attention. Bouguer had long
ago explained what is confirmed by our author, that the Spaniards and
creols neglefl: the arts of induftry ; fome miferable office or paltry
honour, a crofs of knighthood, occupy all their attention, while a
few are in chace of the titles of Caflilc, afpiringto be marquifes, counts,
or barons.

Commerce. 3 From the deficiency of the produce it may be judged,
that the commerce of Caracas is not confiderable. In June 1728 in-
duftrious Bifcayans founded the company of Guipufcoa, which was to
trade with Venezuela, and thus obviate the contraband traffic with
ftrangers. Their general afTembly was held at St. Sebaftian ; and the
trade was conduced with wifdom and fpirit, till, corrupted by wealth
and avarice, the company itfelf entered into the contraband trade with
the Dutch of Curazoa, which they were inftituted to prevent. At
length the celebrated ordinance of free commerce, 12th Oftober 1771,
was iiTued with fupreme prudence, and followed with furprifing fuccefs
The great ports are Guayra and Porto Cavello, as regulated by aa
ordinance 01 179^, while the others have inferior privileges.

Cities and towns. ^ Caracas, the capital, is a confiderable town,
on the little river of Guayra. Its elevation of four hundred and fixty
fathoms above the fea, cools the temperature, fo that fpring may
be faid to be perpetual. During winter the thermometer of Farenheit
marks from 52° to 76^, and in fummer from 69*^ to 85°. It is built
in 8 valley, of about four leagues in extent, amon^- the mountains of
the great chain, which runs along the fea from Coro to Cumana. The
fite is fteep and irregular, from the northern heights to the rive^:
Guayra, which bounds the city on the S.

Porto Cavello feems a commodious harbour, and the population may
be 7500 ; but the fituation is unhealthy, and extremely dangerous
to the crews of foreign veffels. The raar(h, which occafions this
mortahty, might be drained for twenty thoufand dollars ! Valencia
contains about eight thoufand inhabitants, and its advantatreous fitua-
tion may lead to great future advantages. Maracay is a beautiful new
village, in the rich vales of Aragoa, famous for the culture of chocolate.
The induftrious inhabitants, moftly Bifcayans, have been computed at
more than eight thoufand, and the vicinity is crowned with numerous
plantations of cotton, indigo, cofTee, and grain. Tulmero, in the fam«
iralcs, is another handfome town. Victoria contains feven thoufand
eight hundred fouls. Coro (lands in an arid faady plain, full of caSU
nopals, and Indian figs ; it has fome commerce with Curazoa, and a
population of about ten tlioufand. Carora, thirty leagues to the S. is
alfo in a;i arid foil { but there is abundance of deer, whofe hides are
drefTcd, leather being the chief fabric : population fix thoufand two
liundred. Barquifimeto is a thriving town, with about eleven thoufand
three hundred fouls. Tocuyo cont.«iii8 more than ten thoufand, though
the inliabitants have a fingular propcnfity to fuicide. Guanara may
contain twelve thoufand three hundred. In 1B04 Calabofa, between
Caricas and the Orinoco, might already boall of a population of four
tboufitud eight hundred. Pao is remarkable for uerdi uf ctttlc*«

^ w

* llicrc me two towot uf ihlit utm*.

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

7»7

The river of the fame name, paffing N. to S. formerly fell tnto the
lake of Valencia, but afterwards aflumed its prefent direftion to the
river Apuri, fo that a communication might eafily be opened between
Valencia and the Orinoco, a diftance ot one hundred leagues. San
Fihppe is a regular town, with about fix thoufand eight hundred inhabi-
tants. Nirgua, built in the expeftation of mines, has been abandoned to
the Zambos, or offspring of negroes and Indians ; a race fo remarkable
for crimes, that of ten which are committed, weight may be afcribed to
them. This mixture is radically bad, while the children of a white by
an Indian woman, who are of a pale complexion, are always delicate^
lively, good, and docile.

Cumana forms a delegated government, faid to contain two pro-
vinces, Cumana and Barcelona, which laft however has never formed
a province, but being included in the grant to the Welfers, was efteem-
ed a part of Venezuela. The town of Cumana is the moft ancient in
the Caracas, having been founded in 1520, on a fandy foil, abjout a
league from the fea. In the laft war, Emparan the governor, opened
the port to neutral (hips, and his condu£i met with the approbation of
his fovereign. The heat of the climate is very great, yet the popula-
tion is computed at twenty-four thoufan^, and is thought to be on the
increafe. It is however fubjeft to frequent ^earthquakes, which Hum-
boldt fuppofes to proceed from the volcanoes of Cumucuta, which pour
out fulphur and hot water. The caverns of Cuchenaro emit an inflam-
mable gas, which fliines in the night, efpecially after rains, to the
height of one hundred fathoms. The population of Cumana is chiefly
compofed of creols, who are induftrious and fond of their native place.
The great article of trade is falted fifli, which is fent to Caracas and
the Windward Iflands ; the induftrious inhabitants being from Catalo-
nia and the Canaries. Cariaco contains about fix thoufand Ave hundred
T>crfons. Barcelona was founded in 1634, en a plain, one league from
i.he mouth of the river Neveri ; the population is computed at fourteen
thoufand ; but the town is, or was, very difagrceable, and only noted
for breeding fwir.e. There is another town called Pao, about forty-five
leagues from Barcelona. The iflc of Margarita is little remarkable, ex-
cept as a military ftation for the invafion of the Caracas. The chief
town is AtTumption, near the centre of the ifland..

The town of Maracaibo is in the province cf that name* which it
bounded on the W. by the viccroyalty of New Granada ; the lail
province of which in the N. E. is that of the river Hacha. On the S.
the province of Maracaibo borders on Varinas. The eaftern fliore of
the lake of Maracaibo, is iirid and unhealthy ; and on the W. the land
only becomes fertile about twenty-live leagues to the S. of the town, an
etcellcnt foil prevailing on the fuuthern banks of the lake. The town
is on the weftern fhore, at the diftance of fix leagues from the fea, on a
fandy fituation, and in n hot and dry climate, chiefly felt from March
to October ; but in July and Augult the air feepns to proceed from an
oven. The only antidote is to bathe in the lake i and endemial diforderi
are unknown. The thunder ilorms are terrible ; and if they fail^
earthquakes are fure to follow. Moft of the houfes are meanly covered
with reeds, and there is no water but that derived from the lake, which
is healthy, though not pleafant, efuecially in March and April, when
the ftrong breezcb impregnate it with fca-fpray. According to an enu-
meration in 1801, there were about twenty-two thoufand inhabitants}
and they were increafcd by the Spanifli refugees from St. Domingo.
The flavci do not exceed five thoulaud. The habit of failing on the

lake

tn\:i

m i'f

^i9

SPANISH DOMINIONS

lake encourages the fpirit of navigation, and many of the natives become
feannen. Even in the dry favannas they contrive to feed numerous
herds, and the youth are celebrated for intelligence and ingenuity ; but
the inhabitants rather noted for want of probity. The women are
fond of the harp, which refounds in the ftreets in the evening. There
is only one church, and a convent of Francifcans. Merida is the feat
of abifhopric. Created in 1782, and the inhabitants are computed at
more than eleven thoufand. The province of Varinas fomctimea
affumes the name of Merida j but by the map of La Cruz, New Varinas
is in the province of Caracas ; while by that of Depons, which feems
more correft, Merida is in the province of Maracaibo, and Varinas
near the centre of the province fo called.

Truxillo was a flourifliing town till it was ravaged by the buccaneers
in 1678, fince which event the population has greatly declined; and
Truxillo is chiefly noted for fweetmeats and confeaions made by the wo-
men. In 1787 the town of Varinas was detached from the government
oT Maracaibo, and chofen for the feat of a feparate government. As
it is eafily acccffible by the navigable rivers which join the Orinoco, a
militia was appointed for its defence in 1803. The tobacco of Varinas
is highly celebrated, though not e^ual to that of fome parts of Cumana.
The town of Varinas has a population of 10,000.

Natural geography.] The temperature of this country, which
is in the ancient torrid zone, chiefly depends on the chains of mountains.
A branch of the eaftem Andes of Quito pafles along the N. of the
province of Varinas ; and borders the coafl; from Coro, or rather the N.
of Valencia, as far as Paria ; while another chain called the Ber^antin
mountains, paflbs further to the S. Thefe chains are moilly habitable,
being of little height, though from ten to fifty leagues in breadth.
The higheft peak is the Picacho, of about feven thouund feet. From
the account of Humboldt, thefe mountains are chiefly of granite and
gneifs, intermingled with talcaceous fchiftus, and chloritic fchiilus,
adularia, limeilone with mica, rock cryltal, a green primitive rock,
quattz, galena, titan, plumbago, d&y, potters* clay, Jcc. In the in-
terior of Cuman» there is a remarkable cavern called Guacharo,
famous amonjg the Indians, for being of immenfe extent, and ferving
as R habitation for thoufands of a kind of nofturnal birds, a new
{pecitt of goat>fucker; the favages conceive thefe birds to be the fouls
of their anceftors, and vifit the cavern with great ceremony.

Mineralogy.] There was formerly a mine near Nirgua. At pre-
fent only copper is explored at Aroa, in the jurifdidion of St. Filippe.
Thefe mines are rich and abundant; and in 1801 one hundred and
feventy>one Quintals were exported from Porto Cavello. Mineral
waters abound in thefe provinces *.

Lakes.] Spring and autumn are unknown, and there are only fum-
mer and winter, or more properly rainy and dry feafons ; during the

* Tlip caguan (American tigers or Iconards) abound in Caracas, and are faid to Imi tlit
mora fierce in proportiun ui tlie fpnts uf tncir fkin are fniatlcr. I'crhaps ther diminifli mih
V^. 'Hiere are ullo many puunat, or American lions, wiilt bears or nmer ant-eatert,
d«ntas or tapirs, deer, pa(iuiras, and American rabbits. Among the plants is the tacama-
JKca, fitid to relieve liead-aclii. Kflalla, xxiii. 106, 107, who fays that there arc mines of
tin in dlffrrent parts, difcovered by Ovicdo, a citizen oi liarquifinieto ) and add^ tlut, it
is emi'loyed in tbc Sj>anifli fuunderies of artillery. He alio mcntiotm veins of azul or
Bii'rc, equal to ultramarine ; and the fame fubfttnce is mentioned by Ullna in his acoount
of Peru. Do they mean FruflSwi blue or cobalt, which, m yielding fnult, wis formerly
<tatl«d blue-Aon« i

»f former

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

719

former the rain generally falls for three hours in the afternoon, as in
Mexico ; before 1792 thunder ftorms were more frequent, but iince,
the rains have been more abundant* Since the thunder ftorms have
ceafed, earthquakes have become more common. The botany of
Caracas little differs from that of New Granada. The lake of Maracaibo
derived its name from an Indian cazic who commanded there. This
fea of frefh water is nearly circular, and by the lateft maps about 90
g. miles in diameter. It is navigable for large veflels, as already
mentioned in the account of the town of Maracaibo. It is generally
frefh till its entrance into the fea, but during the northern breezes is
fait as far as the town. On the N. E. of the lake, at a fpot called
Mena, there is an inexhauftible ftore of mineral pitch, which being
mixed nvith tallow ferves to tar the (hips. In the night the bituminous
vapours, efpecially durin|r the great heats, dart like lightning from
this fpot, forming what is called the lantern of Maracaibo, becaufe
they ferve as a pharos to the Spaniards and Indians, who navigate the
lake without a compafs or nautical ficill. The (hores being unhealthy,
the Indians build their hovels upon (takes of hard wood, whence the
name of Venezuela or Little Venice. Four fuch villages ftill exift on
the eaftem fide of the lake ; they have a church on the water ferved by
a curate ; and fo fervent is religious zeal, that though he feldom fur-
vive the dangerous climate above fix months, yet a Tucceffor is never
wanting. Thefe Indians chiefly live on fi(h ; and it is remarkable,
that they take wild ducks by concealing their heads in caliba(he8, as
pra^ifed in China. The weftem fide or the lake is fertile; and the
further north the air is the more falutary.

The lake of Valencia offers a more pleafant profpe£t than that of
Maracaibo, and is more ufeful, though far inferior in fize, the banks
being fertile land, and enjoying a delicious climate. By the lateft:
authority, it is about ten Spani(h leagues, or forty Briti(h miles in
length, by three and a half, or fourteen Britifh miles in breadth ; but
Depons, from his own obfervati<3n fays, that the length from S. W.
to N. E. is thirteen French leagues and a half, and the greateft breadth
four. Except the weftem fide, it is furrounded by mountains ; and
receives on all fides twenty rivers or rivulets. It is found to be lower
in the middle, where it is fuppofed there is a fubterranean tunnel of
evacuation. The eadcm fide is occupied with five plantations of tobacco
on the king's account, witich occupy fifteen thouf^nd perfons ; and the
other fides are equftlly cultivated, while the banks prefent a perpetual
verdure. This lake is alfo adorned with feveral ifles, fome of which are
inhabited. The water is of a foapy kind, afcribed by our author to
the quantity of animals and vegetables, which there rot and decompofe.
Iguanas, a monftrous kind of lizard, abound, and in fpite of their
unfightly ai>pearance afford a delicious food.

Riviai.j After the grand Orinoco in the S. the chief rivers are the
river Apuro or Apuri on the W. joined at its confluence by the river of
the Portugucfe Woman, or more (hortly the Portuguejot which is fol-
lowed by the Guarico. In the middle is the Unari, a confiderable
ftream, which divides Venezuela from Cumana ; and on the E. the
Gusrapicha, which is navigable by boats for a confiderable fpace.
The tides on the noithern coafts between the capes Vela and Paris are
almoft infenfible { while on the eaftem (hores as Tar as Dutch Guiana,
the)r are fo ftrong as to enter effentially into the calculations of the
atriner. Tht trade winds betwfcn N. £. and £. thouvh conftant on

tho

\M.

^«o

SPANISH DOMINIONS

the fea, npon tlie flioreS only blow from nine or ten o'clock till tW
evening, when they are replaced by an oppofite wind or land breeze.
But this rule is not without exceptions. Veffels muft be tarred every
three or four months, elfe they are corroded by the worms *. It has
already been mentioned that Porto Cavello is by far the beft and fafeft
haven.

Might not a mixture of arfenic prevent this peftilenee ?

Spanish Guiana.] This article muft not te difmlffed, without
Ibme account of Spanish Guiana ; for fuch is the appellation finally
adopted for the province, called in fome maps Nevv Cumana or New
Andalufia. The large and celebratM territory of Guiana is bounded
by the river Orinoco on the N. and W., the hne aftenvards bending on
the E. of the Cafiquiari, where is the fort of St. Carlos, to the great
river Negro* which divides Guiana from Northern Amazonia, or by a
more laudable appellation Northern Colonna. The fouthern boundary
of Guiana is ftridtly the great river Mararon ; the part of Brazil on the
N. of that river having begun to affume the more proper name of
Portuguese Guiana. The eaftern boundary is the Atlantic Ocean,
This interefting country is even at prefenc little known ; and contcftg
have arifen concerning the courfe of the mod important rivers. The
JFrench, Dutch, and Portuguefe poffL-ffions in Guiana, are referved for
feparate defcriptions.

Boundaries.] Spanifh Guiana is bounded on the S. E. by th«
Dutch and French poffeffions, on the S. by the Portuguefe, the line
of demarcation pamng nearly parallel >'ith the lake of Parima and the

great chain of mountains called Tumucurag. The precife weftern
bundary is the weftern mouth of the river Yupura, thence proceeding
almoft due north till it join the northern limit. But when the French,
by the treaty of 1801, extended the weftern frontier of their pofTefllons
to the Rio Blanco, it appears to be indicated, that this river forms the
boundary of Portuguefe Guiana, which would be more proper than an
arbitrary line. The equator was the original boundary, but the Por-
tuguefe have extended their poifefiions thirty-two leagues further to
the N. for there are fituated the ifle St. Jofeph, and the mountain
Gloria del Cocui, regarded as the prefent boundaries. The SpanilK
fort of San Carlos, N. lat. i" 53', is intended to prevent new ul'urpa-
tions, and to recover if poflible the loft territory ; which is difficulty
as the Portuguefe have fettlements in a fertile country, and the conve-
nience of tranfport by the Maranon, they being more than 300 leagues
from the fea. From this reafoning of Depons, it would appear that
the recent western boundary of Portuguefe Guiana extends to the great
river Negro. The town of San Tome, or old Guiana, was founded
in 15 16, on the fouthern bank of the Orinoco, fifty leagues from its
mouth : but being expofed to repeated attacks and infults, was tranf-
ferred in 1764, to a more fafe and remote pofition, about ninety
leagues from the fea. There is here a fpecial governor, dependent on
•ht captain-general of Caracas | and it is the feat of a bifhopric. The

^ houfei

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

72X

houfes have terraces, where the inhabitants fleep during the great
heats. In 1803, the whole tythe of the vicinity was 4000 dollars.
Trade is carried on by a few Catalonians» in thirty-four fmall veffels.
The city had better have been placed nearer the fea, and the ferocious
Caribs expelled, which might be accompliflied in two months by three
thoufand troops.

'Bbj^HM

ta.'

!ii#D^^vlH

CHAPTER IV.

GOVERNMENT OF CHILI.

^igin of tie Chikfe.—HiJiory.--ARjiUCANS,^Drefs.'^ Manners

— Government. — IVar, — Religion f tifc,
SPJNISH CHILL — Government. — Cities, — Commerce, --Natural

Geography.

r\ f, -K TPHE works of Molina :. .' •rntng thia interefting
\jx I .J ^ country may be regardea .^ excellent models of cho-
rography : and fcarcely of any diftant region a defcription exift^ fo ex-
a6t and complete. He'fhall therefore be feleAed as the chief guide in
the following (hort abftradl, though a few occafional obfervations br
other recent authors may be interfperfed *. Some of the indigenes of
Chili believe that they were produced in the country, while others af-
fert that they came from the north or the weft. Our learned author
inclines to think that the Chilefe, being generally of a mild chara£ter,

fierhaps proceeded from the ifles of Polynefia ; and a comparifon of the
anguages might be curious. They are of a brown, tinged with red
or copper cou>ur, like the other American tribes ; whue the Poly
nefians are generally olive, a tint decidedly Afiatic. One tribe how-
ever, in the province of Boroa, is fair. The Chilefe language is re-
markably rich and harmonious ; and from our author's vocabulary it
would appear that there are few natural objects, or even abftra£l terms,
which may not be expreffed in the native idiom. It differs radically
from the other American languages, not lefs in the words than in the
ftrudure. Some few words however feem to be from the Peruvian or
Quechui, which is not furprifing confidering the contiguity of the
kiiigdoms f .

History.] Till the fifteenth century the hiftory of Chili is buried
in total obfcurity, but about the middle of that century it begins to
dawn in the Peruvian aniiale. The Peruvian empire then extended from
the equator to the tropic of Capricorn, or confines of Chili, a delicious
country extending for more than twelve hundred miles along the Great
Ocean, flanked and proteded by the vaft belt of the Andes, which
fends forth copious Itreams to water its fertile fields; while the en-
vied foil at th« fame time abounds with gold, filver, and other valu*
able produAions. The native Chilefe were then divided into fifteen
tribes, each ruled by its ulmen or chief. The inca Yupanqui, who
feems to have reigned about 1450, ordered an expedition agamft Chili,
condudled by a prince of the blood, while he himfelf remained in the
frontier province of Atacama. Some tribes were rather won by per-

* Molwift Sofgio fuUa Storia Naturale del Chili,
fulla Storia Ciuile del Chili. Bolugna, 17S7, Svo.
t Storia Uvilt, p. IS.

• . 3 A

Bobgua, irS3, St9. Snggi*

fuafion*

jti'it;

,# !■

•JZ2 '

SPANISH DOMINION'S

fuafion, than fubdued by force or fear; and on a further progrefa
the Peruvian army was totally defeated ; but the country as far as the
river Rapel, where there ftill exifts a Peruvian forirefs, acknow-
ledged the dominion of the Incas. Thus on the arrival of the Spa-
niards in America, a part of the Chilefe were fubdued, while the other
portion remained free.

In both tliefe divifions the manners were the fame ; and the Chilefe
may be faid to have advanced from the paftoral (late of fociety to the
agricultural ; befides maize they cultivated feveral native plants, as po-
tato.'S, yucas, and others *. They alfo multiplied their little rabbits,
and native camel or rather tall fticep, which fupplied them with flefli,
and wool to clothe them. According to fome traditions they had even
hogs and hens, the former a frequent animal in Polynefia, the latter -
probably tiie turkey, an American fowl, or that bird whioh refemblea
the pheafant, which might probably be t ed as partridges are in
Afiatic Turkey. Such was their dominion over the animal creation,
though they might have added the ^uanacoi. the pudu a kind of wild
goat, and various birds which abound in their country. Canals to
water their fields were not unknown, but their inftruments of agri-
culture were mean and cumberfome. Their villages confifted of huts,
only within view of each other, like thofe of the ancient Germans ;
and it would feem that their chiefs arofe to that dignity on account of
their wealth, as the word ulmen fignifies a rich man. Their power was
direAive and not coercive, and the right of property was admitted ; ,
the field belonged to the cultivator^ and was tranfmitted to his children.
Their looms, tnough of rude fabric, fomewhat refembled the European ;
and they were no ftrangers to the art of making earthen ware. They
extra£led from their mountains gold, filver, copper, tin, and lead ;
and of a mixture, approaching to belUmetal, formed axes, and other
rude inilruments, found, though rarely, in their fepulchres, they being
Ijenerally of bafalt. Our author even afferts that they bad a term for
iron, and had weapons made of that metal, a circumftance unknown to
all the other tribes of America ; but this by his own confeflion feems
dubious f . They were acquainted both with foflil fait, and that drawn
by heat from fea water ; and their dyes were fixed by the polcuVat an
aluminous ftone ufed as a mordent. From one of their plants waa
derived thread for cords and nets ; and they had canoes of different
ilrutStures. In numbers they could cxprefs one thoufand, and they had
pronst or the Peruvian quipost a bundle of threads of various colours,
with different knots to exprefs contrafts or events.' The celebrated
Araucanos may be confidered as the genuine reprefentatives of the an-
cient Chilefe ; and the account of their manners will fupply any de-
ficiency in the prefent defcription.

Aravcans.]} After the conquell of Peru the Spaniards under AI-
magro firit attacked Chili in 1535 ; but met with little fnccefa till their
general Valdivia, in 1541, founded Santiago, which has fince remained
the capital. After detailing the events of thofe wars, our author pro-
ceeds to give an account of the Araucans, who have fo vigoroully de-
fended their country againft the further progrefs of the Spaniards, and
■who are better known in Europe by the epic poem of Ercilla than by
the records of hiftory. The defcription of this fingular nation might
}lave been transferred to that of the native tribes and Unconquered
Countries ; but at they poflefs nearly one half of Chili, and their hi£>

* Slorla Civile, p. 16.

t lb. 35.

torf

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

72J

tory is intimately interwoven with that of the province, the arrange-
ment may appear more connefted by introducing here a fliort view of
their geographical pofition, jcharafter, and circumftances.

The Araucans inhabit a beautiful traft of country extending from
the river Ciobio N. to that of Valdivia S. bounded on the eaft by the
Andes, and on the W. by the ocean. Tiie name is derived from the
province Arauco, which, though the fmalleft of their ftate, has, like
that of Holland, become the leading name of the country and nation ;
but they alfo voluntarily receive the appellation of Aucas or free
MEN. Though they do not pafs the ufual fize, they are in general
robuft, well formed, and of a truly warlike afpeft. Their complexion,
though copper, feems to be more clear than that of other Americans.
The face is nearly round, the eyes though fmall, lively, and full of ex-
prelfion, the nofe rather flat, hut the mouth well made, with white and
uniform teeth ; the leg mufcular and elegant, and the feet fmall and
flat. They have naturally very little beard like the Tatars, and extraft
it with great attention, di^fpifing the beards of the Europeans as marks
of barbarifm. They alfo carefully eradicate this natural vegetation from
all the other parts of their bodies. The hair of the head is black and
copious, and bound up in a knot ; and like the Franks, Ihey efteem long
hair a mark of honour. The women are often handfome, efpecially in
Boroa. Endued with a ftrong conftitution, and free from fedentary or
careful operations, they rarely become grey before the age of fixty or
feventy ; nor bald before that of eighty : and not a few exceed one
hundred, with the teeth, fight, and memory complete*. The foul
correfponda with' the vigour of the body. Intrepid, and full of fire,
patient of the fatigues of war, prodigal of their lives in defence of their
countiy, above all lovers of liberty, which they value above their
health and foul, jealous of honour, courteous, hofpitable, faithful to
their contrafts, grateful for benefits, generous, humare towards the
vanquifhed. Thefe noble qualities are however obfcured with vices pe-
culiar to their nearly favage life, deftitute of education and the ufe of
letters ; drunkennefs, floth, prefumption, and a contemptible pride
vfhich leads them to defpife all other nations. Were European manners
and knowledge introduced, this people might deferve univerfal efteem {
but the obftacles fecm invincible. « •

PoKLCHEs.] The Piielches of the mountains, now united with the
ilate of Araucana, are more rude and favage than the other inhabitants*
Their name fignifies eaftcrn men. They are of a tall ftature, and fond
of the chace, fo that they often change their habitations, and even de-
tach colonies to the eallcm fide* of the Andes, as far as the lake Na-
giielgapi, and the fliorcs of the Atlantic, in the wide Patagonian plains*
The Araucans highly efteem thefe moiuitaineers for their bold fervices
in war, and their lafting fidelity to the confederacy.

The hiftory and wai s of the Araucans, which are amply detailed by
our excellent author, are forcijrn to the nature of this work. Uncon-
quered by the incas, they boldly rcfifted the Spaniards, who approached
their territories in 1550. Proceeding beyond their northern frontier,
the great river Biobio, to aflill the Pencons againft the new invaders,
the Spanifli fire-arms were feen and felt without arioniftunent ; and the
;viAor8 of Peru wete at laft aftonifljed to find an unconquerable peupla.
In the firft engagement the Spaniards were difordt^red, and the horfe of
their leader (lain ; while the general of the Araucans IcU oa the field ;

• Slorla Civile, p. 53,

3 A a

and

72*

SPANISH DOMINIONS

and a ffiaro confliA remained andecided. Valdfviai inftead of iraking-
any progrels, began to build a fortrefs to defend his territory ; but in-
another battle, 1553, he was totally defeated and flain. Since that pe-
riod wars have been carried on with various fuccefs. The Spaniards
have eftabliihed colonial towns, which have been repeatedly taken and'
ruined by the Araucans. The frontier banks of Biobio are lined witb
fortreffes. At the peace of 1773, after a war which had coft the Spa-
nish treafuiy 1,700,000 dollars, the Toqui of the Arau8an» infifted'
on having- a refident minifter at the city of Santiago, a proportion
which the Spaniards rehidantly accepted ; and the Araucan envoy
with his train was lodged in the college of St. Paul, formerly be>
longing to the Jefuits. The Araucan (late retained all its terri*
tory and glory, when Molina wrote in 1787; and it is to be hoped,
that it will continue to exift as- a perpetual proof ef the courage and
talentff of the indigenes.

Spanish Chili.] The Spaniards' are contented with> that excellent
tra^ of territory which lies between the defart of Atacama and the
river Biobio *. This fettlement is divided into thirteen provinces,
CoplapOt Coquimlot Quilhtaf Aconcagua^ MeltpiUa, Santiago^ jRatica-
vua, Colcbagiuti Mau/it Itata, Chillattt Puciacajr and ffuiiauikma.
They alfo poflefs Port yaldivlot in the country of the Cuncni ; the
archipelagv of Cbiloe f and the ifliand of Juan Fepnandez. Spanifli
Chili, a military province, is governed by an officer of merit, common.
ly of the rank of lieatenant>general^ who afiumes the titles of prefidentr
governor, and captain-general of the kingdom of Ghiliv Hs reiides
in the city of Santiago, and is wholly independentr except in cafes of
war, when he confmts the viceroy of Peru*^ As captain-general he
direAs all military affairs ; not only the three great officers of the king-
dom, the carop-marflial, y^-ryVanZ-m/i/or, and the commifTary, but the
four governors of Chiloe, Valdivia, Valparaifo, and Juan Fernandez,
being fubje£b to his orders. As prefident and governor-general, he ad-
minifters juftiecy or rather prefides in the court of audience in Santi-
ago» divided into two halls, the civil and the criminal ; with a regent^
fudges, fifcal or royal procurator^ and a^ proteAor of the Indians.
"Where the property exceeds ten thoufand dollars, an appeal lies to the.
fupreme council of the Indies ; but juilice, as in aH the royal audi-
ences, is adminiflered with fingular integrity. There are alSo tribunals
of finance, of the papal bull, of vacant lands ; and the confvlate, or
tribunal of commerce, a new inftitution in the Spanifli colonies, is inde-
pendent of all the others. The provinces are governed by prefers or
corregidbrs, commonly named by the captain-general. The inhabitants
are formed into regiments of militia ; and there is befides a body of re-
gular troops. In the town of Concepcion, at the mouth of the Bio-
bio, there is a regiment of cavalry, and another of infantry, to watch
the Araucans ; and the city of Santiago maintains fome troops of dra-
goons for its police and defence.

Cnurch.] Spanifh Chili is divided into two vaft biflioprics, San«
tiago and Concepcion, both fufFragans of the archbifhop of Limat
The cathedrals are- ferved by canons; and the holy, or rather ac-
curfed, office of the inquiiitioo, has at Santiago a commifTary, with
various ruhalterns. There are no convents except at Santiago and
Concepcion.

CiTzss.] Thefe cities are well built, with fli'ccta at right angles^

* >ki)iaa, Stent Civile, 36 5.

tommonly

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

7*S

commonly thirty-fix feet wide. The repeated earthquakes have in-
forced the mode of only a ground ftory ; but the houles are whitened
without) and commonly painted within ; and many of the new build-
ings are of ftone, and of two ftories, as fuch have often withftood
earthquakes as well as thofe of one. The cathedral ef Santiago is
384 feet in length, the work of two Englifh archite^s, but liniihed
by Indians, their difciples. The mint of Santiago is the work of a
Roman architeA. *

PoruLATiON.] Spani(h Chili has benefited greatly by the liberty
cf commerce 1778, and the population begins to 'correfpond with its
delicious climate and fertile fields. The Spaniards arc moftly from the
northern provinces, and are mingled with a few Englifli, French, and
Italians. Molina obferves, that the creols, of whatever European na«
tion defcended, refemble each other. Well made, intrepid, incapable
of treafon or meannefs, vain, liberal, ardent, fond of pleafure, lagaci-
ous, oibfervant, ingenious, docile, they only want inftru&ive book«.
And fcientific inftruments, which are -very rare, and fold at enormous
priees. The noble arts are however negleifled, and even mechanics are
iar from perfe&ion. The men generally drefs in the French fafliion,
and the women in that of Peru-; but the Chilefe ladies wear longer
gowns, and have a more modeft air. Lima however i^ the Paris of
Chili. Wealth is walled in the purchafe of rich dreifes, liveries,
■coaches, and tnles of Caftile, a fixed fum purchafing that of count,
another that of marquis ; and an opulent merchant may become a
•duke when he pleafes. Two natives of Chili have even become gran-
dees of Spain. - The common people finding the Araucan drefs conve-
nient, have adopted their fafliion; Difpcrfed through a wide country,
and not watched, as in Spain, by the vulgar infolence of a village ma«
.giftrate, they enjoy their liberty, and lead a happy and tranquil life
amidft the plealures of the delicious climate. Fond of gaiety, mufic,
and poetry, many are improvifatoriy or in the language of the country,
faUadore€t as in the province of Cordova, on the other fide of the
Andes. The Spaniih language is Angularly fertile in rimes, and the
•couiti'^rs in the uxt?enth century would tconverfe for hours in metre ;
hence the facility of their celebrated poet Lope de Vega, who, belides
iwenty large volumes of poetry, •compofed five hundred plays, in three
a^K, and mort lines, each written in the fpacc of a day, being in fafl
a mere mprowfatoret but with wonderful invention in his plots. Spa»
•nifh is generally fpoken in Chili ; but the country people near the
Araucan fromier ufe the Araucan or Chilefe language. Conftantly on
horfeback, in an exquifite air, they are healthy and robuil. The fmall-
pox was not known till 1766, whe'n it appeared in the province of
Mauli. The mortality was terrible, till a peafant who had been cured,
treated the patients with cowb' milk, eitlier in drink or clyfters. Not
one died ; while the phyficiatH, with numerous receipts, could favc
very few *. LalTon had, tried the fame prad^ice with gneat fuccefs, as
appears in the Medical Tranfadions of Paris, 1779; but the Chilefe
peafant adminiftered the milk pure, while i^wiflbn mingled it with a de-
coction uf parfley. Milk certainly, by fweetening- the blood, has fiu-
j^ular puweri- againik this infection. The leather Itrap and balls, de-
fcribed by the author of Anfoii's voyage, have hvxn aii^ady meutioned f
and Herodotus informs us of a fintilar weapon among the Sagartii. Of
the Chilefe commerce fome idea has been given in the account of P«ru#^

'"ti

• atoria (.ivile, 27 7»

726

SPANISH DOMINIONS

It occupies twenty-three or twenty-four (hips, each from five to fix
hundred tons ; bringing filver, fugar, rice, cotton, in exchange for the
Chilefe grain, wine, pot-herbs, conferves, dried flefh, wood, copper,
ice. Ships from Spain in return for European goods, receive gold,
filver, copper, vicuna wool, and drefled leather. It would be highly
advantageous to Chili to open a diredl trade with the Eaft Indies *.
. Our author's account of the Chilefe or Araucan language, and the
vocabularies, are extremely curious and interefting. It is faid radically
to differ from the qitechua, or language of Peru,

Natural history.] The natural hiftory of Cliili is as ably treated
by our excellent author as the civil ; nor fhall this arrangement be
changed in this fliort abftraft. The length, as already mentioned, he
computes at 1260 g. miles. The breadth depends on the diftance of
the Andes from the great ocean,, being from 24° till 32°, about 210
miles ; thence to 37' only 120, but from that parallel to the archipela-
go of Chiloe the diftance may be 300 miles. Square contents, com-
prifing the Andes, about 378,000 fquare miles f. The N. boundary is
the defart of Atacama ; on the E. the eaftern branch of the Andes,
which divides Chili from Cuyo, in the viceroyalty of La Plata, and
from the favage tribes. On the S. our author mentions the Magellanic
lands, a name totally difmifTed from geography, fince the voyages of
Cook have evinced that there is no continent to the S. of America j and
it would be idle to give the name, as reftridled, to a few fandy defarts
at the fouthern extremity of this continent. On the S. there are bar-
ren mountains, and no tribes to be feared, amidft the cold regions
covered with fand and fnow. Eight or nine paths open to the Andes,
on the E. the moil frequented being that which learls from the Chilefe
province of Aconcagua to Cuyo ; a journey of eight days, hke thofe
over the Alps in Swifferland, on flielves in the perpendicular rocks,
hanging over the profound apertures, through which wind the riveis
Chilli and Mendoza. Mules are ufed ; but the travellers are often
obliged to proceed on foot. Some little plains are found, where the
incas, when they fubdued Cuyo, and the northern provinces of Chili,
conftrufted little houfes of ftone, fome of which remain. The niune
Chih is indigenal, but is pronounced CiJi by the natives, while the Spa-
niards ufe Tch'tU. All tlie etymologies given by geographers are fallc,
fnow being in the Chilefe tongue */Vtf; and the Chilefe tht-mfclvcs pre-
tend that the name is derived from flocks of a bird rcfcmbling the
thrulh, regarded as a happy omen by the firfl fcttlcrs. What is called
the maritime part, prefents three chains of hills parallel to the Andes ;
•the mediterranean is moftly plain. The grand belt of the Andes
' )s here about 120 miles in breatlth, with traiifvcrfe ridges full of llu-
pendous ruptures and precipices ; but ftudded with little vales and
excellent paflures, watered with many ftrcams and c«fcade3 from the
rocks.

Mountains.] The higheft mountains of the Chilefe Ar.des are

Maiifla, at 28^45' ; Tupungato 33^ 24' ; Defcabcsado 35'^ ; Blauqui'.lo,

"35^4'» Longavi, 35^30'; Chilian, 36'^; Corcobado 43" J. Mohua

. had not an opportunity of meafuring the prodigious.height of th. fe moun-

• tains; but the Spaniards and Chilefe fuppofe them to be more than 20,000

• In h'lB able treatlfe of the commerce of Peru, Leqvianda has alfo illuftra'tJ that t>f
Chili. The reader is refeaed to liie account lure given ol" the vicerojaiiy ol IVvu j or to
' Eftalla, XX. 27 s.

fStoriaNittvur&lc, t8. lib, a^J.

IN SOUTH AMERICA;

727

feet above the fea : the loweft part is in Copiapo. When our author
argues againll Buffon, that mountains increal'e in height as they recede
from the equator, he (hews no great acquaintance with geography.
It feems to be certain that the Andes of La Paz, that is in the centre
of the chain, are higher than thofe of Quito or Chili, nearly equidiftant ;
another proof that the Andes cannot be ftriAly regarded as pafling
into North America, while in faft the chief chain extends to the pro-
digious heights of Santa Marta, covered with perpetual fnow, while
another grand branch proceeds by Bogota to the N. E., being alfo in
many parts covered with perpetual fnow. The wefteru -branch, at
appears from the map of La Cruz, totally perifhes at the gulf of
Darien ; and no fnowy mountains are known in that quarter, nor in
New Spain, till two other chains commence, one on the S. E., another
on the N. W. of Mexico ; which are totally unconnei5ted with the
Andes, as known to every ftudent of exa6t geography* The high
mountains of Tibet, now known to be about 25,000 feet above the fea,
on the fame gigantic fcale, as was to have been expe£led, with the
rivers and other features of Afia, are mucli at the fame diftance from
the equator on the N. as thofe of La Paz on the S. fo that the hightft
mountains »nay be faid to be near the tropics : and it is probable that
when New Holland is fully explored, a great chain fhay be found to
run E. and W. though the centre of tlie co\intry. But from the
latituae of 40*^ towards either pole the mountains ccrtai; Jy decreafe in
height, as known to every geologill.

Climate. J The fingularities of Peru here ceafe, and the font feafcns
are as regular as in Europe, tiiough in an inverfed order, being ir. the
fouthern hemifphere. As ufual beyond the tropic of Capricorn, Ipring
begins oh the 21ft of September, fummer in December, autumn iu
March, and winter in June *. From the beginning of fpring to the
middle of autumn, the (ky is always ferene, chiefly between 24^^ a' ! •»5''
lat. the years being rare in which a flight fliower falls duri tj ti-at
period. The rains begin in the middle of April, and laft till t.je end
of Auguft. In the northern provinces of Coquimbo and Copiapo little
rain falls ; but iu the middle there are three or four days of rain, alter-
nating witli fifteen or twenty dry days ; and in the fouthern, the rains
fometimes continue without interruption for nine or ten days. Thunder
is fcarcely known, except on the Andes.

Volcanoes.] Volcanoes abound in Chili, the moft terrible being
that of Peteroa, which on the third of December 1762, opened a new
crater, fplitting into two parts, a contiguous mountain for the fpace of
many miles^ The tremendous noife was heard throughout the kingdom,
but was not accompanied with any earthquake. The aihes and lava
filled the adjacent vallies, and caufcd an inundation '>f two days in the
river Tiugerica. A fragment of a mountain falling o,, the great river
Lontua, totally ftopped its courfe for ten days ; and the ftagnated
waters having formed a vade lake, which ftill exifts, at laft opened a
paflage and inundated the neighbouring country^ There are only two
other volcanoes in ChiH, which do not belong to the Andine chain,
a fmall one near the river Rapel, whic'.i only ejedls fmoke ; and the
great volcano of Villarica, fo called, becaufe it is near a lake of that
name in Araucana.

Lakes.] The rivers, though fometimes confiderable, have but a fliort
go\irin from the Andes to the ocean. There are feveral lakes, both

1 *: M

■;'^%1''

Storia Naturale^ 30}
3A 4

frp(*«

728

SPANISH DOMINIONS

freih.and fait, the two largeft being in Araucana. The Lauquen,
called ViUarica by the Spaniards, ih about fcventy-two miles in circuit,
with a beautiful conic hill in the centre. The Nahuelgapi is about
eighty miles in circumference ; and in the centre is an iflaud crowned
M^ith beautiful trees *. This gives rife to a river of the fame name,
running towards the Atlantic, while from the firll fprings the river
Token which joins the Pacific. There are many medical waters, and fait
rivers. The Araucana fuppofe the former to be fpecial gifts of their
beneficent god Meulen,

Soil.] The fertility of the foil excites admiration. Many parts that
were in conflant labour long before the arrival of the Si*an!:;-.ds, and
have fince been always cropped by them, are fo little degenerated, that
no manure is neceflary. Tne grain is faid to yield from a hundred to
a hundred and fifty ; but our exa^ author adds that, in general, the
<;rop in the meditterranean lands is offixtyor feventy; and in tho
maritime forty or fifty ; though the harveft is left too long on the
eround. The foil towards the fhores often refembles the fat land of
Bologna, of a reddifh brown, friable, tender, mixed with a little clay
or marl, and fometimes presenting white or brown pebbles, arfenical
and martial pyrites, with (hells, madrepores, and other marine produc-
tions. That of the mediterranean parts and Andine vales is of a yellow-
ifli black, porous, friable, foft, often gravelly, and fprinkled with
pyrites, flints, and decompofed marine bodies. Both thefe foils are
pf great depth, as may be obfcrved in the water courfes. There feems
little doubt that the ocean has retired, and our author gives proofs that
}t llill continues to diminifh. His account of the Andes of Chili h^s
ali'eady been given in the general view of thefe mountains.

Mineralogy.] Chili is celebrated as one of the richeft metallic re*
gions. Tlie l^ad is found of excellent quality, but it is only ufed for the
fufton of filvcr, and a few domeftic purpofes. It appears in the fhapcs of
galena, green ore, white fparry ore ; and is always mingled with a Httlc
gold or lilver, which is defpifed by the miners of tliis rich country. The
jnines of tin are yet more negle^cd than thofe of lead, in fpitc of their
abundance, and the excellence of the mineral : they are moltly in fandy
fountains, where they do not form veins like other minerals, but appear
like black, little, irregular ftonei, which contahi the metel nearly pure,
with fome arfepic and iron, Tin cryftals of various colours are alio com-
p\on. Iron is fo al?undant, that there are few river? which do not depofit a
fandy ore of that metal. By fpecial regulations iron cannot be wrought
>n tlie Spanifh colonies, but is a monopoly of the parent country.
Hence thtorifts have conceived that no iron exifts, wliile many pro-
vinces of (Jhili prefent rich fourcesof this mineral, th' compaft black ore,
the granular grey, and the fplid cubical blue. Araucana alfo co.ntainscx-
cellcnt jnines of iron, fuppofed to be not inferior to that uf Spain. Cop-
per mines chiefly abound between 24" and 36" of S. lat. aiui the metal
18 equal if not fuperi m ?o any difcovered, being often mingled with
gold, like that of Sibe ia. Moll of the copper pres found in Europe
alfo appear I ' Chili { and the moft celebrated mine is that of Payen in
the country of the Puelches. That of Curico prefpnti copper mingled
with one half gold: being beautifully fpottcd, it is formed into brace-
lets, rings, and other ornaments. In uiher parts are lar^e lumps of
pure cof per. In one province copper is found united with zinc, form*
fng • ni.|ura| braft t and our author conceives thip fingular mixture tQ

• Sttoria Nstunle, 96, •

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

7^9

be the effeft of fubterranean fires. It is of a beautiful yellow, as
malleable as any artificial brafsi and being found near tlie great river
Laxa, is called Laxa copper. Vaft quantities of copper are exported
from Chili to Spain, perhaps more than 100,000 quintals annually,
befides the export to Peru, to the amount of 30,000 quintals : not to
mention the home confumption for artillery, and domellic purpofes.

While copper is difpcrfed thoughout the country, ftlver is only found
in the high and cold defarts of the Andes, whence it is little wrought.
The chief filver mines are in the province of Santiago, Aconcagua,
Coquimbo, and Copiapo. The ores are of all defcriptions, but the
black are the moft efteemed. The mod celebrated mine of fjlver is that
of Ufpallata, the largeft and richeft of any yet wrought in Chili ; and fitua-
ted on the eaftern mountains of the Andes, in the province of Aconcagua.
This high defart produces no plant, except the dadylh glomerata of
Linnxus ; and a plain about fifty miles in length and fix in breadth*
called Ufpallata, gives name to the mine. It is furmounted with
another plain, upon which rife Andine fummits of fuch height, that
they arc vifible from San Luigi, at the dillance of three hundred and
fixty miles * ! Thefc enormous heights, which reqyire an entire fura-
mer day to pafs them, are compofed of black mafles of indurated clay,
in which are enchafed many round and fmooth pebbles, bearing every
appearance of having been rolled in water. Morales, in his defcription
of the adjacent province of Cuyo, has obferved the fame furprifing
circumftance, which is far from being confined to the furface of 'he
r3ck. The vein of filver, on the flcirts of the eaftern chain of the plain
of Ufpallata, has been traced to the enormous length of ninety miles,
nor is the termination yet precifely fixed. Thofe who have pnrfued it
for ninety miles declare, that it continues of undiminifhed opulence ;
and it is by many fuppolVd to extend to Putofi, which is in tiie fame
diredlion, that is a fpace of 14'' or 840 g. miles. If Jurt, what a mag-
nificent inllance of the prodigality of nature ! The grand vein is
always nine feet in thicknefs ; but on both fides numerous veins are
thrown off, which, dividing into fmallcr branches, may be faid to
penetrate in all diretlions, a chain of mountains thirty miles in breadth.
The gangart, of an earthy fuhllance, and difterent colours, divides the
grand vein into five parallel but unequal parts. That in the centre, only
two inches in breadth, is black, though it appear white from the great
quantity of metal, and is by the miners called the guide ; the two nextare
brown t while the two external falbands are of a greyiih colour. Tiiough
this wonderful vein extends horizontally, it fometimes dips fo much,
that fome of the 1 its dug in 1 766 went to the depth of three hundred
feet; butthe mineral, farfrom degenerating, became richer and richer. On
trial by the aflayers of Potofi, it was found, that the guide yielded two
hundred marks of pure filver in the caxon f ,- the two next veins diminifh-
ed to fifty ; and the exterior only yieldt-d f .urteen : but on the whole
equal to that of Potofi. The mine of Ulpallata, though difcovered in
1638, was ncgleded till 1762, when the people of Mendoza, a town
not far from Ufpallata, invited two expert miners from Peru { and thev
{Continue to work the mine with prodigious advantage.

r'i

\ i

• Btorta Naturair, 101. Tlw iXtffi tl'ftanc* c«n fcoiwly excvetl 200 e. mitei.

•f Tlie AnwrUan meullui-jilU u|)|ilv this trrin itixon to the quantity oT inineial which
one wnrktuan nwv vKtnA \u a day, Muouitun| to abuut filty i|uiiitaU, each of one hundred
^HOtllt

I t. Even

73»

SPANISH DOMINIONS

Even after this furprifing defcrption, our author afferts, that of all
the metals gold is the mofl. abundant in Chili ; there not being a moun-
tain, or a hill, which does not produce it in greater or fraaller quanti-
ties ; whence it is found in the foil of the plains, and abounds in the
fand of the rivers. The gold of Chili is celebrated as the pureft in the
world, being generally found of twenty-two carats, and often of
twenty-three carats and a half. In the fouthern provinces, between
the river Biobio, and the archipelago of Chiloe, were difcovered many
mines of excellent gold, from which the Spaniards received immenfe
fums, and had in confequence erefted a mint at Valdivia, and another
at Ofqrno, But the Araucans, having expelled the Spaniards by force
of arms, have clofed all the mines, avowing an extreme contempt for
that precious metal, as the fource of infamous cruelty and unmanly
avarice, and the fole caufe of the utter degradation of human virtue.
The mod confiderable mines of gold now worked in Spanifh Chili,
are thofe of Copiapo, Guafco, Coquinibo, Petorca, Ligua, Tiilil,
Putaendo, Caren, Alhuc, Chibato, and Huillipatagua ; all which,
except the three laft, which have been recently difcovered, have, ever
fince the conqueft, ^yielded a conllant, and confiderable produdt. The
famous mine of Peldehue, near the capital of Chili, has been loft by
the intrufion of water j and fteam engines, which in the mines of Corn-
wall, throw out entire rivers, feem to be unknown in Spanilk America.
This mine yielded daily three thoufand crowns of gold *, Our excel-
lent and exaft author afferts, that the gangarts of goldarc fo general, that
fcarcely can be named an earth, ftone, or metal, which docs not fcrvc
as its receptacle : but I have never obfcrved that fclfp'ar, cither com-
mon or compadt, ferves as a gangart for any metal ; which is one dif*
tindion between it and pctrofilex, of which whole mineral mountains
fometiuws confid, as at Schlangeab(.rg in Siberia f. This precious
metal appears in grains, folicules or little leaves, in curious and fan-
taftic fliapes, the fporta of nature, or in prpitiis^ irregular maffcs like
potatoes, which may be cut with a chiffel. The moil common gangart,
however is, by his obfervation, a kind of red and brittle argillaceous
fchiilus, the fame with that of Potofi ; and a fpccimcn of that of Chili
may be feen at the colledion of the IniUtute at I3uIogna. Ikit the
falbands wliich accompany the veins, and, which by the Chilcfc mc-
tallurgifts are called the cheJJ^ as they contain the mineral, arc fome-
times quartz, at other calcareous fpar, horuftone, hornblend, limcllone,
&c. By far the greater number of veins run N. and S. I'or the me-
tallurgy our intelligent author may be confultcd. He adds, that fomc-
times little beds of pure gold dull are foinid in ploughing, or making
trenches of irrigation ; and fuch beds are commonly accompanied with
a red earth ; bemg the dccompofition of the argillaceous fchiRiis. The
frold of the Chilefc mines, paying the royal lifth, amounts to about
four millions of dollars annually ; of which a million and a half are
coined at the mint f)f Santiago. The remainder is exported, or melted
into ecclefiaftic and piivate vefiels, and ornamcnl&, cfpccially for the
women ; but the quantity which efcapcs the tribute of the fifth cannot
be computed. Any perfon may apply for a mine ; and the pr«l'iJcnt
uf Chili orders an officer to mcafurc the ui'ual fpucc, two hundred and

• Storiu Natumlc, 1 J 1 .

f Confiiliin^; lUHy ut Pun« upon x\\\% ffmark, If foxiM only ii\fli\ncr mapnanrfo \\\w\
ftirfarj but u^D cMmiuUtuu il wm fu|)t'tru.i«if miU tltc)^»ii^ari mm nut p^ticUauJ.

forty*

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

73*

forty-liK feet in length, and a hundred and twenty-three in breadth.
One part goes to the king, but is fold to the proprietors of the two
others, that is the lord of the eftate and the difcoverer. Proprietors
carefully conceal veins, that their lands may not be injured by the con-
courfe of people. When a rich vein is dilcovered, there follows as it
were a perpetual fair ; and a fixed village or town foon arifes, whea
the governor fends a judge or alcald.

Botany.] Molina las ably difcuffed the botany of Chili; but at
moft of the topics havi !;.■ mi treated in the defcription of the viceroyal-
ties, a few remarks mi.j iuffice. Many of the plants, and he particu-
Jarly mentions nettles, are the fame with thofe of Europe ; and almoft
all the pot herbs and fruits of that continent ilourifh in Chili. The
northern provinces t-ven produce the lugarcane, thefweet potatoes and
other tropical plants. Our author has obferved about three thoufand
plants, not to be found in the botanical catalogues of his time, 17821
but it is probable that moft of them now occur in the Flora Peruana.
Maize is common and abundant ; the magu is a kind of rice, and the
tuca a fpecies of barley, both of them cultivated before the arrival of
the Spaniards. Peas and potatoes were alfo well known to the Chilefe.
Of the latter they have thirty kinds ; and perhaps this valuable root
was firft brought to Europe from this country, but it muft not be con-
founded with the fweet potatoe, a tropical plant mentioned by Shakf-
pere, as an aphrodifiac. The large white ftrawbcrry, tipped with
purple, and about three inches in ciix:umfcrence, not iftilcnown in
Englifh gardens, is alfo derived from Chili. Molina fpecially dcfcribes
this ftrawbcrry as of the ftze of a fmall hen's egg, and fays the Chilefe
call it qucJghen ; and it is cultivated as a crop. Many plants ace valua-
blc as dyes, and others as mi-dicinal. The gentian, called cachanhhuan
is peculiar to Chili, though fomc botanifts have afcribed it to New
Granada ; it ir, an excellent fudoritic and febrifuge, but particularly
ufeful in difcafes of the throat. The vira-vira expels the ague } the
payco is excellent for indigeftions. Wild tobacco abounds in Chili.
The beautiful flowers and flirubs are infinite. Incenfe, not inferior to
that in Arabia, is produced by a (hrub about four feet in heighth, dif-
tilling tears of a whitilb yellow, and of a bitter aromatic taftc, like the
incenfe of the Levant. The trunk of the puyi fupplies Chili with
excellent corks. The/cil/o/a iali, a known alkaline plant, abounds on
the fliorcs. Cliili produces no lefs than fcven kinds of beautiful
myrtles ; the fruit of one yielding an excellent ftomachic wine preferred
by ftrangers to any mufcatel. The culcn fupplies an excellent tea,
known as a vermifuge. An acacia of the province of Quiliota called
jarilloy yields a baliam of excellent odour, ufed in the cure uf wounds ;
while the palqui is cftccmed a fupcrior febrifuge to Peruvian bark. On
the banks of the rivers Maypo and Salvia, grows the cajfta fcna equal
to that of the Levant. Of ninety-fcven kinds of trees, that divcrfify
the beautiful forefts of Chili, only thirteen lofe their leaves in the win-
ter. In the Andine vallies are cyprcffcs, red and whit*^ crdars, and
pines ; the red cedars being often of enormous fize, fo th»t iti the ide of
ChiIo6, from feven hundredto eight hundred planks, twenty feet in lcuj;th,
will be cut from one tree. The willow only differs from the European in
its entire thin leaves of a yellowifh green ; Hud the iniufton of the hark ii
excellent in fevers. There are large and beautiful catl\ \\w thorns of
one, about eight inches in length, being ufed us winv^ in knitting*
The cinnamon tree, which yields what is called Winter's hark, is regard-
ed M fftcrcd b/ the iVraucani^ who prtfcnt it «• « fign uf peace. The

parroli

73 »

SPANISH DOMINIONS

carrobltas teen already mentioned in the account of La Plata *. Beau,
tiful woods of various colours are alfo fupplied by the Chilefe forefts.
Vinej flourifli to admiration, but none appear to be native, as in North
America j nor does this valuable creeper feem to be any where indigenal
in the fouthern hemifphere. Turkey and Perfia, and perhaps Greece
are probably the native feats of the cultivated vine ; and «rild vines
occur in ilill higher latitudes in North America. The forefts of Chili
indeed abound with vines, but they arifc from feeds depofited by the
birds. From the confines to the river Mauli, the vines are three or
four f«et an height, and fuppoited by itakes ; but farther to the fouth
they are left loole on the fides of the hills. The beil wine comes from
the banks of the river Itata, commonly called wine of Concepcion,
becaufe the vineyards belong to that city^. It is red, generous, of an
excellent favour, and equal to the beft in Europe. Great quantities
are fent to Peru, but the veflels being pitched, the fragrance is loft.
Mufcacel wines are alfo excellent. The vintage is in April and May.
Ail the other European fruits attain the greateft perfediion.

Zoology. 1 The zoology of Chili differs little, as may be conceived,
from that of La Plata and Peru ; and our learned author may be con.
fulled fo<r an ample defcription. Near Coquimbo excellent ov'fters are
found-; atrd the beauty of the fea (hells is often admirable. The rocira
of Chilo^ fumifli the pholas, culled in ituly fea-datcs. There are many
kinds of lobfters and crabs. Among the infe£^s is the locuft of Africa,
an unplcafant but feldom deftru£tive gueft ; and the parrot butterfly is
of fupremc beauty. Bees abound in the fouthern provinces. Reptiles
are rare ; but the fea produces feventy-fix kinds of fi(h, all excellent
and faliitary. The feals called fea cows appear on the (hores of Arau.
cana. The fpccies of hnd and aquatic birds amount to one hundred
and thirty- five; while the fea fowl arc innumerable, fo that, on the
Hiores, 'he firmament is often darkened by their prodigious flights.
The others retire in fpring to the foreft« of the Ande«t to pix>pagate;
and on the return of winter they revifit the plains : while thofe who
haunt the fnowy mountains become white a!» in Europe. A fpecies of
dove and partridge is frequent ; but it may be doubted whether our
common fowl was known to the Chilefe before the Spaniih arrival, as
aflerted by Molina, nor is the name in their language concluftve. The
hi autiful flamingo decorates the banks of the rivers ; nnd the picaflor
or humming bird hovers round tbe flowers in a ricli effulgence of funny
hues. There are not a few finging bh-ds of powerfitl melody. Tlie
American uftrich appears in great mimbers, in the Andine vallics ; and
cfpccially near the great lake Nahuelgapi. In height he is equal to a
roan, the neck being two feet and eight inches in length : the head
round, fmall, and cloafehed with feathers : the le^s as lung as the neck,
feet with three anterior toes, and a fliort one behind. The win^s arc
eight feet in extent, and black i the back of an a(h colour, while the
remainder ot the body is white. Some are wholly black, others
white, but fuch may be regarded as monfters. In fume reipe£ls he
diffg-s from the Atncir, but is equal in voracity ; and the female lays
in the fand fi-um forty to fixty eggs, each yielding about two pounds
of excellent meat. The feathers are ufed for plumes, parafoU, (ans,
Ice. If there be any inferiority it is on the fide of the African. Scvc

• Miilinaffefrnknlt, Cfratonin/uHoi iHnat'ii,ramisfjiln'>lis. Hf udJs that it diflira
^roin tlic £ui«|>«<an, )iy f,rmfs four inahci. .1 It-H^lli, MiU lu Ltud a« tv) be ulVd oi naili,

.!-. * ril

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

73J

ritl eag)«» and vultures fcream among the prodigious preoipices andl
folitucks of the Andes. The eondor» a fpecies ofvulturv, is the moftr
celebrated, and is doubtlefs the targeil bird that pervades the air. The
widcil extent of the wings, that fell under our author's infpe£tion, was
of fourteen feet and fome inches* The body greatly exceeds in lize
that of the royal eagle ; and is uniformly black, except the back which
clothed with white feathers. There is alfo a necklace of raited

white fc^athers, about an inch in breadth : the head is only covered
with a thin (kin ; eyes black, with an iris of reddiHi brown ; beak
four inches in length, large, aquiline, black at the bafe, white ,
towards the point : chief feathers of the wing two feel nine inches
in length, and four lines in diameter. Tlte female is inferior in iize^
and oT a brown colour ; as amoni^ all the quadrupeds, birds, and
fi(hes, the female is^leaft favoured by nature ; probably in the
defign of omnifcirnce that their Icfs gaudy colours may not attraA the
eye and maUce of their foes, during the facred period of geilation
aud nutrition. Such is the condor, an inhabitant worthy of thi>
majeftic Andes.

Some races of dogs were kno vn before the arrival of the Spaniards ;
but they differ, like all the American animals, fit>m thole of the
ancient continent. Molina counts tbtrty-fix fpecies of quadrupeds in
Chili. The hippopotamtis of the rivers and lakes differs from the
African ; and in fize and form refemblcs a horfe, but with palmated
feet. ' This animal was however never feen by the author. There are
numerous fpecies of the feal kind : and the chinga, known by its
peftilential ejedion in its defence, is not rare in Chili. The perfume is
contamcd in a fmall bladder, and does not proceed from the iirine a*
fuppofed. The cu/peti refembles a fox, and has a fingular curicfity to
look on mankind, as he never fails to follow and flare at the traveller^
though without offering any harm, furprifed perhaps to fee a biped
without feathers. The puma, called by the Mexicans mizlcf is the
animal ftyled a lion by the old writers ; for though he has no mane, be
fiomewhat refembles the African lion in (hape and roar. His back is
generally a(h colour, with fome fprinkling of yellow, while the belly
M whitim ; the length from the nofe to the tail five feet, height from
the top of the (houlder to the fore foot twenty-fix inches and a half.
The tail is two feet and one inch in length, and refembles that of the
tiger. When amorous he hiffes like a ferpent ; and prefers the flefh of
the horfe to any other. It being ufual to couple two horfes together
in the paflure, to prevent their flight, be will kill one, and drive the
ether before him with ilrokes of his paw, till he has carried his con^)anion
to a proper recefs. The pumot which is alfo called pagi in Chili,
never dares to attack mankind, and a child may drive him away ; but
the .^ frican lion is equally dailardly, a» obferved by Mr. Barrow in his
accoui.t of the Cape of Good Hope, who regards cunning, not courage,
at it! attribute. The cuy and the vlfcaeeta an anitnal betwixt a rabbit
and a fox, alfo abound. The vicuna, the cbiUhueque, and the guanaco
have been already mentioned in the account of La Plata. Molina fays
that thefe three, with the paco and Xhcglama of Peru, belong to the
clafs of the camel. A more peculiar quaidrupcd of Chili is the bttemul,
a fingnlar kind of wild horfe, with all the forms of that noble animal,
except that it has cloven feet. Wallis obferved it towards the Straits
of Magellan : and he loves to haunt the mofl retired prrci pices of the
Andes I where, more wild and more fwift than the vicuna, the eluice
btcamet extremely difficnlt.

' Moft

I (

?34

SPANISH DOMINIONS

Moft of the European animals have improved in this delicious climate
and fertile country ; and in fire, vigour, lightnefs, and beauty, the
horfes of Chili do not yield to 'their fathers of Andalufia ; nor have
the celebrated Spani(h flieep here loft any of their qualities. According
to Molina this famous breed defcends from the African race, which car-
dinal Ximenes brought from Morocco *. Nor has that noble animal
man degenerated in Chili. In 1781 died a Spanifli knight, Don
Antonio Boza, aged one hundred and fix, who had never known
fickncfs, and had by two wives twenty-eight fons. Molina has alfo
known creols aged 104. 107. 115. His grandfather and great grand-
father, both creols, died at tKe age of 95 and 96 ; and fuch examples
are common even among the indigenes f. The women are fruitful, and
twins common. A Frenchman, vvhib died in 1764, left by one wife
163 defcendants. Our author joins with Dobrizhoffer in the ridicule
of tliofe thcoriftswho aflert thefimilarityof the American phyfiognomy.
The Boroans, as already mentioned, have flaxen hair and blue eyes ;
and a Chilcfe does not differ Icfs from a Peruvian than a German from
an Italian. The tribes of Paraguay, Cuyo, and Tehuelia, have all
their peculiar lineaments. They have little beard, becaufe it is eradi-
cated ; and the hair of puberty, fuppofed by Dr. Robertfon to be
very fpare, is on the contrary copious, but eradicated like the reft.
The arguments againft the vigour and appetite of thefe tribes are alike
unfounded J. On the S. of Chili are the Poyas, a race equal to the
Tehuels in ilature.

Natural curiosities.] That the fea gradually retreats from the
coaft of Chili is matter of annual obfervation. In fome places the
land left is two inches, in fome half a foot, efpecially near the mouth*
of rivers j where the part left is the firft year covered witli loofe fand,
in the fecond produces fome herbs, and in the third is completely
covered with verdure. The fhore of Cliili confifts moftly of a plain, five
or fix miles broad, between the fea and the maritime mountains ; theiv
fides bearing evident marks of the lowering of tlie ocean, which has
fometimes formed curious grottos with difterent chambers, hung with
jhells or ftalaftites, where beafts take refuge in the winter.

At the diftance of four hundred paces from tlie mouth of the river
Mauli, on the left hand, there is on the fea fliore a mafs of whitifli
marble, about feventy-five feet in height, quite detached ; the length
from E. to W. being 224 feet, and the breadth 54. It is commonly
called the Church, and has in faft all the appearance of one, being exJ
cavated in the infide into a vault more than one-third of its exterior
height, and having three doors of a proportional height and breadth
and femicircular form ; one Pt the wellern end, where the fea, the
great architeft of this fitigular edifice, enters, and two lateral doors
cxa£lly oppofite, through which the fea retires during the reflux. This
natui-al edifice, of which half is ftill bathed by the waves, fervcs as a

• Might not the orip;iual race be Aill tried, nnd gra(!aally habituatc.l, hy hcing at firft
reflridtedto warm S. W. counties of England ? Orninly the experimem defcrvcs attention,
particulatly ax tlw pafturw in Mororcd, may perhaps apjjroach iiciircr to the E;(gli(h, or
at Iraft not abound in aronmtic platits, fo niucli as tbofc of f^uain. Ilic wool of the
Afriran kind ferms maifc, and it it probably tlie cliange of the cirmate that occariuns dte
finenefs of the fleece.

f Molina does honour to the creol race, for a more clear, fcieatific, and intelligent tc«
count of any country was nrver written by any author uf any age or cliii.ate.

J It is to bo rcf^rettcd iluit this groat writer had evor pevufed the dreams of Patiw |
for he Is feldona vulnerable, except where he follows that idle thcoriit, whofe wurlu are
tiow deferrcdljf forgotten.

9 f rcfideoce

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

13S

refidence for a great number of fea woWes, whofe cries refound through
the vaft concavity ; while the top is covered with white fea fowl called
////, in fize and figure refembling doves. On the coaft of the province
of Rancagua is another fimilar, and now free from the fea. The people
in the neighbourhood, who call it the church of the Rofary, wifh to
have it coufecrated for divine fervice.

PORTUGUESE POSSESSIONS. •

The dominions in South America, held by the fmall kingdom of Por»
Higal, extend from the frontier of Dutch Guiana, lat. 3° N. to port St.
Pedro, S. lat. 32'^ being thirty-five degrees, or 2ioo G. miles: and the
breadth, from Cape St. Roque to the fartheft Portuguefe fettlement on
the river of Amazons, called St. Paul de Omaguas, equals, if it do not
exceed that extent. This vaft territory, rivalling the empires of anti-
quity, is ftill more unknown than the Spanifli poffeflions, partly from the
want of fcience and curio fity, partly on account of the thick forells which
cover the extenfive plains of the Maranon, and its auxiliary ftreams?.
Though long in itri£l alliance with Portugal we have little precife know-
ledge of Brazil ; and ftiil lefs of the interior country fo abfurdly called
Amazonia, but more juftly by the Spaniards the Land of the Millions.
The chief city of Brazil was formerly Bahia or San Salvador, which has
fince yielded to Rio Janeiro. The others are Para and Cayta near the
cftuary of the Maranon, with a few fmall fettlements on that river ; Par-
namboco, Scrgippe, Paraiba, Villa Grande, &c. the chief fettlements of
the Portuguefe being only thinly fcattered along the fhores. The fa-
naticifm of the Spaniards and Pf rtuguefe is an invincible obftacle to the
populatic.i of fomo of the fineft regions of the globe ; while by the
tree admifilon of all fcfts, as. in the territory of the United States, ia-
dullry and population would increafe with furprifmg rapidity.

BrazU, as is well known, derived its name from the wood fo called^
which was known long before the difcovery of America. It is now di-
vided into eight independent governments, befides that of Rio de Janeiro*
of which alone the governor retains the ftylc of viceroy of tlie Brazils*.
The difcovery and improvement of the gold and diamond mines, about
one hundred le.igues to the N. W. having fecUred to Janeiro a decided
prepondccance. *• But all the provinces are growing fall into opulence
and importance. Thry maniifadiured of late fcveral of the moft neceffary
articles for their own confumption ; and their produce was fo conliderable
that the balance of trade began to be already in their favour; and remit-
tances of bullion were made to them from Europe, in return for the over-
plus of their exports beyond their imports f." From the fame account
It appears that the Portuguefe fettlcrs have (hewn repeated fymptoms of
revolt from the parent coutitry. The population of this large portion of
South America has not been accurately detailed ; but it would feem that
the Portuguefe and their dcfcendants cannot amount to half a million*
while the natives may be three or four millions ;{:. The diamond mines
belong exclnfively to the crown : and one-fifth of the gold is exa6ted.
There are alfo numerous taxes and impoiitions, which inftcad of enlarging

• Suwnfon, Emb»(ry to CMnt, i. 904. f Ih.

X According to .SiMiniton, i.^ 19'i. nil the whites in the Bra»^It worv eomputed •(
900,000, Uie negrocr OOU,ouo, IW <k}<ly lUe :iauves do not exceed un« million.

the

R'* '¥'

7S«

PORTUGUESE POSSESSIOJTS

the reven\le are the grand caufes of its diminution ; and the expenees ol
government confume about one-third of the million fterlinp, which Brazil
IS foppofed to yield to Portugal *. The European fettlers are in jreneral

every ^umci . v.iaaK.s ana iworas are gene-
rally worn by the men. The ladies have fine dark eyes, with animated
countenances, and their heads are only adorned with their treffes, tied
with ribbons and flowers. The convents and monafterics are numerous
and the manufadlories rare. Labour is chiefly performed by flaves, about
20,0C0 negroes being annually imported ; even the monks and clergy
keep black flaves. The indigenes are faid to be irreclaimable favages,
under the middle fize, mufcular, but aAive ; of a light brown com-
plexion, with ftraight black hair, and long, dark eves. They chieHy fubfift
apart, on the coaft between Janeiro and San Salvador. Their language^
hat not been inveftigated by the incurious Portuguefe, who feem deftined
by nature to cover the faults of the Spaniih colonics, and to evince that
even European nations may be found deftitute of knowledge and intel-
ligence.

The harbour of Rio Janeiro is capacious and excellent; and fur-
rounded by a fertile country. It is prote£ted by the caftle of Santa
Cruz, ereded on a huge rock of granite. On the weft is the city of
St. Sebaftian, commonly called Rio de Janeiro, built on a tongue of land,
the hills and rocks behind bein? crowned with woods, convents, houfes,
and churches f . On a fmall ifle are a dock yard, magazines, and naval
itore^houfes ; and there are feveral other ifles in the harbour behind the
town. The ftreets are generally ftrait and well paved. Water is fup.
plied by an aqueduct on the Roman plan. Yet the fltuatiun of tiiis
beautiful city is faid to be unhealthy^ owing to the exhalations from the
primitive inland forcfts. There are manuta£kories of fugar, rum, and^'
cochineal ; and feveral diftn'As produce cotton, indigo, coffee, cacao «)r
chocolate, ricr, pepper, and the noted Brazilian tobacco. The red or
Brazil wood is the property of the crown. The natural bidory has
been little explored : the circumjacent rocks are granitic, white, red, or
deep blue, the lad being of a clofe and hard texture.

Mines.] Concerning the celebrated mines of Brazil there is little
information. They are principally fituatcd in the mountains which give
fource to many ftreams that flow north and fouth into the river Tocan-
tin, on one Hde, and the Parana on the other. The diamond mines are
near the little river of Milboverde, not far from Villa Nova do Principe,
in the province of Serro de Frio, S. lat. according to I^a Cruz J 7' about
long. 44^^ W. from London, This Angular fubftance is not oertatnly
known to be produced in any other part of the world, except Hindoftan,
and chiefly about the fame north latitude 17°; but the diamoiuls of
Brazil are not of fo fine a water, being of a brownifli obfcure hue. In
the northern provinces of Brazil there are numerous herds of wild cattle,
which are flaughtered for the fake of the hides. The river of St. Fran-
cifco is remarkable fur pafliing a confiderabla way under ground} after it
has attained a great fi/.c.

Botany.] The jealoufy and incrtnefs of the Portuguefe government
have elFcdtually prevented any regular and fcientiiic account ot the natural
proilutlition^ of their vail and >..pu)ent dominions in S. America ; and the
lew fcatlcrcd fragments of Brazilian botany are chiefly to be cullefied

• Stauntor, i. 208.

t lb. i. 17».

from

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

737-

from tlie journals of thofe navigators who have touched at Rio Janeiro,
and from the Flora Lufitanica of VandelH, which contains a few plants
of Brazilian Origin. The efculent plants are fuch a i are common to all
the tropical regions of America, among which may be diftingui(hed the
plantain, the banana, the cocoa nut, the chocolate nut, the yam, potatoe,
cafTava, together with numerous fpecies of melons and gourds. Of fruits
the number is fcarcely to be reckoned ; the principal of them however,
fuch as the pine apple, the mango, and the tamarind, have already been
repeatedly mentioned in the account of the botany of the Eaft and Weft
Indies. The warm aromatic plants that are found here in a truly indi-
genous ftate, and are much ufed by the inhabitants as condiments to their
food, or the bafis of various drinks, are the ginger, the turmeric, feveral
fpecies of pepper, American coffee, capficum or Guinea pepper, and
the wild cinnamon or canella. Several medicinal plants of high eftima"
tion, though not peculiar to Brazil, yet grow here fpontaneoufly and in
abundance ; thefe are the contrayerva, the Indian pink, the mechoacan,
the jalap, the' tree yielding the gum elemi, and the guiacum. Woods
for ornamental cabinet work, or for the ufe of the dyers, which are
at prefent chiefly furniflied by the more enterprifilig adlivity of tiie
JDutch, French, and Engliih colonift^ of Guiana and the Weft Indies,
might be procured in equal perfe6tion and variety from Brazil ; fuch.
are t\it logwood, fuftic, mahogany, ebony, Brazil wood, rofe wood *t
fatin wood, and a multitude of others. The merely ornamental plduts
are almoft wholly unknown, but the Brazilian myrtle, the fcarlet fuf-
chia, and the' incomparably fplendid amaryllis formofifTima, compofe
a moft promLIng fample of the hidden trcafures of this delightful

•^""'"•"y' . .... V4P- . .• . , . . . . .;;.

, ' V ' French. ^ \, - : ;'

The French fettlementt in Guiana were lirft formed about the ytfar
1635, and extend from the mouth of a fmall river called Amano, W. to
another called Aracara, E. ; though recently the limit wa^ attempted
to be extended, at the expence of the Portuguefe, to the eftuary of
the Maranon. On the S. the line feems arbitrary } but the whole ex-
tent does not exceed 350 B. miles in length, by 240 in breadths The
chief town is on a fmall ifle called Cayano, whence the whole territory
is commonly ftyled Cayenne. The foil and climate in general feem un-
exceptionable ; but the fituation of the town being ill chofcn, in a
I'vvampy ifle, its difadvantaftes have been laxly afcribed to the whole
poflfeflion. In the town are about 1200 white inhabitants, exclufive of
the garrifon. This colony feems to have been always negledled by the
parent country ) and the inland parts remain obftru^ed by thick forelU
and underwood ; and during the rains many parts are inundated. T[be
dry feafon is from June till OAober, and the heavieft rains in our
winter months. The Cayenne pepper is a noted produA of this coun-
try, and the inhabitants ufing it to excefs, a confiderable quantity is al-
ways imported from Peru. Other produ£ts are fugar, cucoaj vaDilla,
ana indigo*

'^ • In Braiil called jocararcrfo.

m>m/^

* i

DUTCH,

7S8

DUTCH DOMINIONS

-^- DUTCH.

The Dutch poffeflions in Guiana commenced in 1663 ■ ^"t four
years afterwards they were expelled by the Englifli, whofe defcendants
form part of the colony refumcd by the Dutch in 1676, Dutch Guiana
is to the N.W. of the French fettlement, and is often called Surinam
from a river of that name, on which the capital is fituated. The length
S. E. to N.W. is about 350 B. miles, along the fhores of the Atlantic :
but the breadth is only 16:;. The chief towns are Paramaribo on the
weft bank of the Surinam, alfo called the Zeeland river, and New
Middleburg near the N. W. extremity of the colony : Demerara is a
fettlement on a river of that name. The white inhabitants of the capi-
tal are computed at 1800. The largeft river is the Efquivo, N.W.
which receives the fhort ftream of the Demerara. The Berbiz and
Corentin are alfo confiderable rivers. The wet and dry fcafons alternate,
each for three months. No mines have been difcovered by the Dutcli,
who always prefer certain returns; and are far from being in fuificicnt
force to conteft the inland parts with the favages, and Spaniards. Yet
from the river Efquivo there is no difficult accefs to the lake of Parima,
the fatal objetl of the wifhes of Sir Walter Raleigh*. Bancroft con-
ftffes that they never penetrate even the lower forefts. The natives ar^
of a reddifli brown or copper colour, like the other American tribes.
Thofe towards the coaft are Caribbees, who being called in as auxili.
aries to fupprefs a negro revolt, devoured the bodies of the flainf.
The Worros are another mari:ime tribe ; but the Arrowaks are the
moft diftinguiflicd by elegance of form, and mildnefs of difpofition.
They believe in a fupreme deity, and in inferior malign fpirits called
Yawahoos. The prieils or magicians are ftyled Peiis, the diftinftion
being hereditary.

Tliere are more materials for the botany of Guiana collected by the
French, Dutch, and Englifh fectlers, than for any other part of South
America ; and in confequence of the fwampy foil and moift atmofphere
of this region, it prefents a vigour and wild exuberance of vegetation,
perhaps without parallel. All the ufual tropical produdions, except
thofe that delight in dry and fandy traits, are fovmd here in full per-
fedlion : the niimes and qualities of thefe however we Ihall not again
repeat, but proceed to the notice of thofe which are more properly
charafterillic.

Befidcs the common fpecies of palms, there are two which are reckoned
almoll peculiar to this part of America, but which, together with many
other of the native plants of Guiana, have not yet found their way
into the Linnaean-fyftem. One of thefe called the cokarito palm, is re-
markable for its hard fplintery wood, of which the fmall poifon arrows
conftrudled. The other, the manicole palm) grows only in the

are

deepeft and moft fertile foil, where it attains the height of fifty feet,
while its ftem in the thickeft part is fcarcely nine inches in diameter.
The annotta feems to be here in its lavourite climate, as appears from its
magnitude of growth and brilliancy of colour. The quallia, whofe in-
tciifc bitternefs is become of late but too familiar to Englifli palates,

* lie attempted to penetrate by the river Caroiii, whieh rifes N. of the Inkc, and flowi
into tite Orinoco, 'i he faiids of tliis Ial<c ui-ie fiip^jolod to Ije ul i^uKi« aud ii\ the vicinity

wa* ilie (libulous golden city Mutioa del Dorado.
f Bancroft) 360.

and

IN SOUTH AMERICA.

73^

and the fimarouba, a medicinal drug of great efficacyi are alfo natives of
Terra4pirma; nor among t!ie materials which the heahiig art derives
from this country, ought we to omit the mention of the riciuus or
caftor oil nut, the caflia, the palm oil, the cowhage, the balfain of ca-
pivi, and ipecacuanha. An herbaceous plant called troolies, grows here,
whofe leaves are the largclt of any yet known ; they lie on the gi'ound,
and have been known to attain the almoil incredible length ot thirty
feet, by three feet in width : fo admirable a material tor covering has
not been beftowL'd on this country in vain : moft of the houfes are
thatched with it, and it will lall fome years without requiring repair.
The fingularly clallic gum called caoutchous is produced from a large
tree inhabiting French Guiana, and here it is ufed for veflels of various
kinds, and for torches. A fmall tree called caruna yields a farinaceous
nut, from vidiich the flow poifon of the Accavvaii Indians is prepared,
the certain though protracted inftrument of jealoufy or revenge. Still
more certain, becaule more rapid, is the Ticuna poifon, the dreadful
equal of that from MacafHir : it is prepared from the roots of certain
climbers called nibbees, which inhabit the entangled forefts of thele im-
meafurable fwamps, and are a worthy riu-lter to the panthers, the fc-r-
pents, and all thufe mo;i(trous and abominable reptiles that generate and
batten iu this peililcntial atmofphcre.

NATIVE TRIBES

AKD

UNCONQUERED COUNTRIES.

SOME account of the Peruvians has already been given, and the
names of the favage tribes of South America are fo numerous, that
they might be counted by hundreds. Nor has any clalTillcation yet
taken place according to languages ; when probably thefe numerous
families might be reduced to five or fix great denominations, as has been
recently effefted in arranging the tribes of Siberia. It was believed
that Guiana contained a confiderable nation, with cities and towns ; but
on the contrary, it is divided among numerous tribes, among which are
many of the Caribs or Carribbees, the moil ferocious of favages. The
nations are diftinguirtied from the ftroUing families, but even thefe are
merely tribes from two to five thoufand fouls. Of the hidigetics o£
Darien a minute account has been given by Wafer, and of the Caribs
by Edivards, of the Tehuels or Patagonians by Falkner. A German
millionary, who refided twenty-two years in Paraguay, has publiflied'
curious details concerning the Abipons, whom he calls a warhke nation,
but who only conftitute a tribe of about ,jive thoufand, on the Rio
Grande, which joins the Paraguay near its union with the Parana.
The Abipons being Icfs known to tlie Englifh reader, fome account of
them may be felefted. They are rather a warlike race, and by a novelty
in American manners, chielly cavalry, fecuring and taming the wild
horfes introduced by the Spaniards ; and in the fame quarter the Mo*
cobs, Tobas, and Aucas, are alfo warlike and independent tribes. la
this part of America greater fairnefs of compUxioa feems to prevail*

3 B 2 thaa

-'k tt^

I^o

NATIVE TRIBES, AND

aii aqui-
iv'i- f-re-
.'t. The

than in the exterior provinces ; and the women approach the tint of
than leans. The Abipons were anciently named callegaes by the Spa-
niards, on account of their lingular practice of eradicating the hair over
their foreheads, fo as to produce the appearance of baldnefs ; I at their
features refemble the European, and the nofe is common i;
line form *. They carefully eradicate the beard, and mari
beads and temples with particular fears, by way of orna
males are accuftomed from childhood to the ufe of the bow. Hunger
alone dictates the time to eat ; and llicy coiifuinc vad quantities of ani-
mal food. Perfonal cleanlinels is prefoived by frequent bathing in the
lakes and rivers. They have no idea of a fupreme deity, but acknow.
ledge an evil demon whom they commonly attempt to flatter by calling
him their uncle. Their magicians are' called Keevct, and they have
great power, as ufnal among favage Jribes, a tribute of ferocity to know,
ledge. Polygamy is allowed, but not frequently pradlifed ; and the babe
being fuckled to the age of three years, the mothers frequently deftroy
their offspring, that they may devote their attention to their nuibands.
They have no idea of i monarch, but are ruled by many caziks, whom
they call capltas, from a Spauifh term : and are not advanced to the
agricultural Hate : but they are not cannibals, like fome of the fur-
rounding nations. From the thicknefs of the fkin, or fome other caufe,
the fmall pox is peltilential to the indigenes of America. The Abi-
pons chiefly biiry their dead under the (hade of trees ; and the horfes of
A chief or warrior are always facrificed on the occafion. The bones are
afterwards difinterred, and carried to a confidorable diftance. They have
rendered themfelves formidable to the inland colonifls by their warlike
fpirit ; and are armed wnih fpears five or fix ells in length, and with
iirrows fometimes pointed with iron.

The extremities of South America, towards the ftrait of Magalhaens,
rsiay, as already mentioned, be regarded as independent. Towards the
tall arc- vaft faline plains, called by the Spaniards, Comarca Defierta, or
the defert territory, whence the defert of Comarca in our maps. The
natives of this region are defcribed by Falkner, who fays that a cazik
uF the Puelches or Patagonians with whom he was acquainted, was
feven feet and fome inches in height. Tlie Moluches form another na-
tion or tribe called by the Spaniards, Araucanos f . The Pi^elches, by
bis account, are divided into three or four tribes, the moft foutljeru-
bcing the Tchuels, extending on the eail to the ftraight ; as the Hull-
liches, a tribe of the Moluches, do on the weft. The Tehuels are the
proper Patagonians, and may be called the Tatars of South America,
being wandering warriors, but courteous and humane. The dead
among the Moluches are buried in fquare pits, in a fitting pofturr, with
tlieir weapons and drinking utenfils ; and an old matron annually opens
the grave to deanfe and clothe the flceletons. Around are thofe of
the ilain horfes, fupported with props. The Tehuels, after having
dried the bones of their dead, tranfport them to the defert on the fea
coaft, where they are placed in huts or tents, furrounded by the flcele-
tont of their horfes ; but the latter prafUcc muft be of comparatively
modem date. Thefe tribes have hereditary caziks, and they fometimes
choofe a commander in chief, whence they are more formidable to the
Spaniards than the northern tribes. The (ingular afpe£i of Patagoniay

• Dol.ri/.hoffer, ii. 15. 21, &c.

"f* Tlie Araucanos, that Is infurgcnls, extend from tlic rivev Diol)io, Wt, 37', to the rivet
Calkcallft, l»t. 40!?. See lUe map in ^leiina, Storia CivUt dtl Chili, Od%m, 17»7, Bvo.

» • ' delineated

UNCONQUERED COUNTRIES.

74 «

delineated with innumerable dreams ending in little lakes, mny well ap>
pear foreign to the courfe of nature. Yet this country has many fin-
gularitics. There is an immenfe tra£l of territory impregnated with
nitre, about 600 miles in length and 150 wide, on the fouth and wed of
the river Parana, and even to the jundtion of the Paraguay, all the
fprings and rivulets being more or lefs faline. No produftive mines have
yet been difcovered ; except fome of filver, near Mendoza at the hot.
tom of the Andes. The rivers that wadi this country all come from the
high mountains of Yacanto, or Sacanto, Champachin, and Achala on the
W. of Cordova, which are little inferior in height to the Andfs of Chi-
li, and are a kind of branches of thofe of Peru. That part of the Andes
which lies W. of Mendoza is of a vad height, and always covered with
fnow ; and there are numerous volcanoes in the fouthern part of the
Andes, as that of St. Clement, lat. 46% and others in a continued pro*
grcfs to lat. 31".

ISLANDS BELONGING TO SOUTH AMERICA.

These diall be traced from the wed towards the ead. The defert ifles
oF Galapagos have already been mentioned in the account of Pulynefia,
or the iflands in the Pacific ; and that of St. Felix is of no confequence.
The ifleof Juan Fernandez, fo called from the flrddifcoverer, is only about
four leagues in length, with an anchoring place on the northern ccaft,
which is diverfiiied with many beautiful kinds of trees. The fouthern
part is precipitous and barren ; but there are fome hills of a red earth ap-
proaching to the colour of vermillion. Many antifcorbutic plants are
, found on Juan Fernandez, which is celebrated in the voyage of Anfon.

There arc two remarkable archipelagoes towards the fouthern extremity
of this continent. That ftyled the gulf of Chonos, or the archipelago
of Guaytecas ; and that called the gulf of the Holy Trinity, or the
archipelago of Toledo. The mod remarkable iile in the former is that
of ChiIo£ about 140 B. miles in length by thirty in breadth, but almod
divided in the middle by bays or creeks. The chief harbour is Chacao
on the N. and "at Calbuco there is a corregidor, nominated by the prefi-
dent of Chili ; there are alfo two monaderies and a church *. The ifle
of Chiloe is faid to be well peopled with Spaniards, mulattnes, and
converted favages. In the fecond archipelago, which approaches the
antar£tic frods, is the iOand of St.Martm, in which there feem to be
fome Spanidi fettlements or faftories : and not far to the S. begins that
broken feries of wintry iflands, called the Terra del Fuego, from two or
more volcanoes, which vomit flames amidd the dreary wades of ice.
In the map of La Cruz the Terra d«l Fuego is divided by narrow
draits into eleven iflands of confiderable fize. In their zeal for natural
hidory. Sir Jofeph Banks and Dodlor Solander had nearly periflicd
amidd the fnows of this horrible land ; but they found a coniiderable
variety of plants. The natives are of a middle dature, with broad
flat faces, high cheeks, and flat nofes, and they are clothed in the
flfins of feals. The villages conijd of miferable huts in the form ot a
fugar loaf: and the only food feems to be fliell flih. This dreary region
is not however fo coJnpletely opprefled by winter, as has by fome been
imagined, the vales being often verdant, and enlivened with brooks,
while a few trees adorn the fides of the hills. The ifle called Stateu*

• Vllua, ii. 264,

£1

fj- ■ i>»naii ■it s^x

3B3

l»nd

74«

NATIVES TRIBES, &c.

land 18 divi(^ed from the Terra del Fuego by the ftrait of Le Maire.
Here alfo Captain Cook obferved wood and verdure. So much more
fevere is the cold in the antarftic region, that thefe countries only in
lat. 55 , or that of the north of England, are more frozen than Lapland,
in lat. 70".

To the N. E. are the iflands called Falkland by the Englifli, but by

the French, Malouins, from tlie people of St. Maloes, whom they

efteem the fivft difcoverers. In 17C3 the French, having loft Canada,

turned their attention towards thele iflands, as an American fettlement

in another quarter ; and the accoynt of Bougainville's voyage for that

purpofe contains ample details concerning thefe iflav.ds. There are two

of counderable fize, each about 40 miles fquarc. The foil and chmate

do not appear to be laudable, but there is a confiderable variety of

, fowls and fi(h ; and the plants fcem fomewhat to refemble thofe of

' Canada. The walrufs, and other animals of the feal kind, frequent

the fhorea. In 1764 Commodore Byron was fent to take poflenion of

thele iflands, which were undoubtedly ti'-ft difcovered by the Enghfli;

llnd a little eftablifliment was made at a place called Port Egmont, but

bring found of little or no value they were in a few years ceded to Spain.

Thi' foil is marfliy, and even in {ummer there arc perpetual ftorn.' ;

and the Spaniards feem only to retain a fmall faflory on the north.

In this department may alfo be arranged, an ifland of confiderable
fize to the S. E. of the Falkland iflands, difcovered by La Roche in
1(175, ^^^^ afterwards named Georgia by Captain Cook, who explored
it with fome attention in 1775. It iftay be calltd a land of ice, prcfent-
ing rocks and mountains of that fubftance, while the vales, deftitute of
trci's or (hruhs, are clothed with etrrnal fnovv ; the only vegetables being
a coarfe fuccies ot grafs, burnet, ;nd lichens. The rocks are of blackim
horizontal ftate. The lark, a hardy and univerfal bird, appears here as
well as at Hudfon's Bay, and there are numbers of large penguins and
feals. Still farther to the S. E. are, if polTible, more dreary regions,
ft vied Sandwich Land. Tiicle may be clleemed the fouthern throne
of winter, being a mass of black rocks covered with ice and fnow

Among the fcv iflands to the E. of South America, may be men-
tioned that of Afcenfion or Trinidada, and that of Ferdinando Noronha ;
that of Sarcm hurg may alfo be regarded as in American iflc, while
TriiUn da Cunha rather belongs to Africa.

AFRICA,

SKtenl. — Original Inhabit anls, — ProgrcJJive Geography, — Religion, —
Climate* — Rivers, — Mountaint. — Deferts,

THIS continent is, after Afia and America, the third in fize } but
in political and ethical eftimation is the laft and meaneft of the
four great divifions of the earth. From the fouthern extremity to the
Mediterranean arc about 70 degrees of latitude, or 4300 G. miles. The
breadth, from 18° weft to 51'^ call, may be affumcd on the equator at
4:40 G. miles. The name is fuppofed to have fpread by degrees from
a Imall province, in the norti , over the reft of the continent. In the
central parts on the fouth the population appears to be indigenous and

peculiar,

*4**,

f^CIf .ip'>-

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Tropic /d' Caiict-r

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/ ' /

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II «rr»»a>nlilii Mii|i iirAnrlvi

I*// i" /Juf'/^.r .iftV't^ t»h/ /< v yMx»<r /-iVMr /)M*WA/V»y «^

peculiar, 1
features, a
In the nori
the Egypt
to the wef
SaUuft, v:l
peopled b)
tauts of thi
dilliuft froi
defert of Z
repelled bj
northern in
Roman hifl
arts of life.
of inankinc
The Roi
the river >
Upon the f
A. D. 429,
the folio vvi
Africa ; an
prefent pop
fome nation
graph y of
of thefe to]

PaoGRE

tiuciit niigti
dolus, whol
was 111) flrai
the Ethiop:
river or Nij
Hanuo the
ccrning the
ki.ig ot Eti;
can fliores 1

Ll'OiJc.

0.1 the ei
to have exi
nity. But
peArs to liav
has fiiice b
map of At
Zaara. H
18'"', and its
the fouthern
with numer
America. '
tian geoirraj
to the Nigii
lake, marili,
certainly Jul!

* Oilier nnc
llic actual {)(

AFRICA.

743

peculiar, thefe being th« native regions of the negroes, whofe colour,
features, and hair dillinguiih them from all the other races of mankind.
In the northfern parts there have been many fucceflions of inhabitants,
the Egyptians and Abyflinians being of Arabian extraft ; while farther
to the weft the Carthaginians paffed from Syria : and according to
Salluft, v.ho refers to Punic manufcripts, other maritime parts were
peopled by the Medes, Perfians, and Armenians. The orginal inhabi-
tants of the northern parts appear to have been, in all ages, radically
diftinft from the negro race, from whom they were divided by the great
defert of Zaara ; and in the eaftern parts the latter were yet farther
repelled by the Arabian colony which fettled in Abyffinia *". Thefe
northern inhabitants fent confiderable colonies into Spain ; and from the
Roman hiftorians it appears that they had made fome progrefs in the
arts of life. Even Herodotus is no ftranger to thefe two diilinft races
of mankind.

The Romans appear to have explored the north of Africa as far as
the river Nigir ; and they eftabliftied' flourifliing colonies in many partR.
Upon the fall of their empire, the Vandals of Spain paffed into Africa,
A. D. 429, and ellabllfhed a kingdom which lailed till A.D. 535. In
the following century the Mahometan Arabs fubducd the north of
Africa ; and under the name of Moors conftitute a great part of the
prefent population. There have been recently difcovered in the interior
fome nations or tribes of a copper colour, with lank hair ; but the geo-
graphy of this country is too imperfeft to admit of precifc illullration
of thefe topics.

Progkessive geography.] The progreffive geograj)hy of this con-
tinent inighl lupply topics for a long and interefting diffurtation. Hero-
dotus, whole African geography has been amply illuftrated by Rennell,
was iio ilraii^'er to the qorthcrn parts, from Mount Atlas in the weft to
the Ethiopians above Egypt ; and fpecially mentions the great central
river or Ni^ir, as running towards the eaft. Concerning the voyage of
Hanno the Carthaginian the learned have not agreed ; and far lefs con-
cerning the voyage faid to have been perf 'rmed by the orders of Nocho
ki.i^ ot Egypt. Rennrll fuppofcs the ancient knowledge of the Afri-
can fliorcs to have extended to Sherboro Sound, to the fouth of Sierra
Leone.

0.1 the eaftern fhores the knowledge of tlic a .cients docs not appear
to have exteno'd beyond the ifle of Peti ba. S. lat. 5'^, or the vici-
nity. But ci iiie interior parts Ptolemy, vA.o refidcd in Egypt, ap-
CArs to have had more precife knowledge in the fecond century, than
as fr.ice been attained in any age. The moft ftriking detett in his
map of Anita is, thnt proper fpace iw not left for the great dcfcrt of
Zaara. Hence the fource of the Nigir, lat. 11% i;; elevated to lat.
iS'"", and its courfe approaclies the Land of Dates. On the other hand
the fouthern parts of Ptolemy's map are too much expanded, and Hlled
with numerous names of fmall tribes, like La Cruz's map of Soulii
America The moft remarkable feature in the defcription of the Egyp-
tian geographer, is the river Gir, which he dilinentcs as equal in length
to the Nigir; but running from eaft to weft, till it be lift in the lame
lake, mardi, < ;• dtiert, an the Nigir. This name of Gir or Gliir, is
certainly juft and native, as there is another river of the fame namt; ia

* Othor .incicnt Arabian c ilon'es hem (c hnvr penctralrd I'.u to the fuuili, ami are traced
\u Multtcitrcnr luul ilic oppufi v Hutiti.
Ihc actual population ut' Attkn cdumot pvc (< >! thirty roillioni, or ]i'-rl api even twcntv-

3 li 4 U»

744

AFRICA.

the country of Tafilet Or Sijilmeffa : and it is not a little furprifing that
Rennell, in Itis theory of thefc regions, (hould have totally omitted thia
Ihikinnr feature. The river Bahr KuUa of Browne appears to be the
Gir of Ptolemy.

It is remarkable that Ptolemy's defcription of thefe (hores extends
little beyond the Fortunate or Canary iflands, though it may have been
expected, that as one of thefe iflands was aflfumed as the tirit meridian,
their pofition fhould have been pretty accurately determined. If the
ancients had difcovered Cape Verd, it is probable that the iflands called
by the fame name could not have efcaped their knowledge ; yet no geo-
graphical inquirer has been led to infer that their geography extended
to far; nor do the Arabs appear to have made any difcoveries in this
quarter. On the contrary, even the memory of the Fortunate iflands
appears to have been loft, when the Normans of France, a people who
inherited from their anceftot s, the Norwegians, a Angular difpofition for
tnaritime enteiprife, again difcovered them in the fourteenth century ; and
in 1402 they were conquered by Bethencourt *. This alchievement ap-
pears to have afted as the firft impulfe towards any efforts in that quar.
ter. In 1412 John I. king of Portugal, refolving to retaliate 'the at-
tacks of the Moors, titted out a fleet to aflail the coafts of Barbary ;
;.. d a few veflels were difpatched to explore the fouthern part of that
country, as an attick from behind, or in an ungnardoc' quarter, might
5 ':iforiably promife more dccifive fuccefs. Cape Nun had before been
Jlie uimolt limit of Portuguele adventure, which was now extended to
«!^ape Bojador. Prince Henry, tlie fourth fon of king John, being for.
tjnately a lover if fcience, fitted out fiiips to profecute the difcovery ;
-iv'd in 1419 Madeira was dilclored+, and its fertility and exquifite cU»
irate ioon invited a fmall colony.

Yet fo flow was the progrefs of difcovery in Africa, that Cape
Eojador | was tirft pafled in 143JJ § : but the impulfe having become
vigorous, the difcoveries were now more rapid ; and in the fpace of a
few years all t!ie coaft from Cape Blanco to Cape Verd, with the
river of vSenegal, was unveiled by the Portuguefe, aflifted by Itahan
navigator-!. So important- did thefe difcoveries now appear, that pope
Eugene IV. giaiited a bull Oi poflt'flion to the Portuguefe, of all the
countries which tliey fliould difcover, from Cape Nun to India. The
illands of Cape Vvvd were difcovered in 144.6 |I ; and the Azores,
vhich from tliei' relative polition ftriftly belong to Enrope, were
all known be*" .re 1449. Vet in 14^3, when prince Henry died,
»iot alxne J )■ ..o miles of llie coaft of AfnVa had been vifited ; and
the equal' ,• was not palled till 1471. But the difcovery of the
gulf of Ciuinea, which in I lie ancient idear, might have been ex-
pefted to Lerniinate the continent ; and of the Itill farther fouthern
protrr.ttion of the Afri-.,ai llicu'j were far from being incouiiderablc
iitchievemchts.

The protedtion of Jolm II, knig cf I '.ugal led to ftill farther dif-
coveries. Congo arofe to notice in 14H4; and the ftars of another
hcniifpherc began for the hrft time to appear to alloniflicd Europeans.

• llilldin ili; 1* |ir» uiicru Hcfciiuvi rti rt {'fjuqutflo dos Ciimrii'S. Paris, K.ao, 9v«.

•f ntr^;fron, )'. -JSi, Ikjs tliat Miulciru had ljt<n alreaily difccnerfd ')y Uh- Kn^'lirti,
V)A4.

X 'Ihis Miinl in thr I'urni^^irfr- fi>;nifi<'s a Joubliiiis/hitrr : in the Sjwnifli Iryur it to coin-
iKir<i or go ruiiiil. Curr'nis mulrr thit \\\w\v cuiill cjitrcindy clungprousj and the fait ft
)iavl'_'ittiiiii i< on the Hi(l nl' ilif ( anarii's.

^ lUiLerifnu'i .Viniiicn, i. yj, \\ Rolicnfun| ib.

^ppei

AFRICA.

745

Hopes were foon entertained of a maritime paffage to India ; and an
embafly was difpatched to Abyflinia to fecare the friendfliip of the
monarch, in cafe the circumnavigation (hould be completed. At
length, in i486, the condud of a voyage for this purpofe, the moft
arduous at that time attempted in modern hiftory, was committed to
Bartholomew Diaz, who discovered near a thoufand miles of new coun-
try ; and at length defcried that grand promontory, the utmoft fouth-
crn limit of Africa. But fucli was the violence of the tempefts, that
Diaz found his fleet unfit to navigate unknown feas, where the chande
of retitmeiit was uncertain ; and, after a voyage of fixteen months,
this great navigator was conllrained to return, having named the utmoll
promontory Cabo Torm-enlofo^ or the Cape of Tempefts ; but king John,
as a better omen, afligned the received appellation of the Cape of Good
Hope.

Intelligence from Abyflinia having confirmed the pofllbility of a paf-
fage and trade with India, another expedition was inftituted, which
was farther Simulated by the grand difcoveries of Colon in 1492 ; and
the fuccefs of Vafco de Gama, who, on the zotlj November 1497,
pafFfd the Cape of Good Hope, and explored the eaftern coall of
Africa as far as Melinda in Zanguebar, whence he paffed to India and
arrived at Callicut ziA May 1498, is recorded as the moft diftinguilhe4
period in African geography.

But that of the interior was deftined to remain in obfcurity, though,
t-arly in the fixteenth century, Leo gave an ample defcription of the
northern parts ; and Alvarez who vifited Abyflinia in 1520, publillied a
minute account of that country * ; which was farther illuftrated by thofe
of Lobo and Tellez. The Portuguefe eftabliflied feveral fadories and
fettlcments in the weft, in order to fecure the trade in gold and ivory :
and the additional title of king of Guinea had been aflumed by the
Portuguefe moiiarclis. The accounts of the miflionaries gradually en-
larired the knowledge of African geography. Yet from peculiar cir-
cumllancos that knowledge continues extremely limited: the vaft fandy
deferts, hi^h moiuitains, impenetrable forcfts, the unintermitting wars
of the petty tribes, more fpirited and ferocious than thofe of America,
and unavved by European troops, or coiiquells; and particularly the
antipathy of tlie African Mai>ometaii», many of them expelled from
Spain, and retainincr hereditary rancour againft the Franks ; have pre-
fented obllacles almoll uHconqnerable. Recently Browne has difclofed
the fmall kirij^doni of Fur or Darfnr, and (ome circumjacent territories ;
and particularly the river of Bahr Kulla, which feems, as already men-
tioned, to be the Gir of Ptolemy. The travels of Park eilablilh with
certainty that the Nigir flows to the call, as long before delineated in
the maps of D'Anville, Gendron, and other? ; and fliew that its weftern
(ources are nearer the Ihure than had btLii imagined. The endeavours
of the Africa!! Society it London, to promote the geography of this
ontinmt, delcrve thr |rpeateft applaufe, and their publications are
valuable records of the fcience. It is to be hoped that Mr, Horne-
mann, who ha-t the advantage of profiting by the advice and even dif-
ap[)ointnK'uts of Ins predectfliMs, and feems to have in confequence
iidopttrd the ncceflary concealment and precautions, will at leaft luccecd

• Oni' (if thr hcil trandntiims o( I.pd is thiit in Kiiglirt* b> Pory, «t th< nqurft of
llakluyt, uiU) ;i in»|t a k) .ii<titiuii« |>r(.-fiN<*(i, cuniuiiiiu^ nil the kiiowkvi;:)' itcquircd at
>h«t lim** l.iiiiloii iboo, t'lio. 'I'lio wi.rk i>l' AUiMOi vtm uoiiikuU Ih'iu rorluguefn
iuu bf4iiiih. Auuvcr|«, i;:i7, lituo. ^1. (li.

iNf

74^

AFRICA.

in detedling the termination of the Gir and Nigir, and in vifiting the
neighbouring cities, particularly Tombi'.<^oo.

Religion. &c.] The ruling religion of this continent is the Maho-
metan, which has unfortunately penetrated farther in the interior, than
was at firll conceived ; and has prefented a great obftacle to fuch tra-
vellers as, being unaware of this circumllance, have negledted the dif-
guile and (imulation, indifpenfable amidft fuch a fanatic and intolerant
race. The climate, which in the north is intenfely hot, is rather more
moderate in the fouthcrn extremity, the antardic pole being more
powerful than that of the other pole. In the centre it would appear
that there is a prodigious ridge of mountains, extending from thole o.t
Kong in the well to thofe of Kumri or of the moon, and thofe of Abyf-
iinia in the eaft ; the whole range being about N. lat, lo^ And from
this another chain feems to extend, about long. 30" eaft from Green-
wich, in a fouthern diredlion.

In Africa the want of inland feas is not fupplied, as in Souih Ame-
rica, by large navigable rivers ; and the Angular deficiency of both may
be regarded as a radical caufe of the Itriking want of civilization, and
flow progrefs of African geography. For inland feas, or navigable
rivers, would have naturally invited commercial intercourfe and foreign
,fettlements, on a far larger fcale than the fmall factories near tlie coait ;
and the more fouthern parts might thus have rivalled the ancient fame
of thofe on the Mediterranean and the Red Sea. But thcfe grand inlets
are rather boundaries of Africa ; and there are no navigable waters
which can diffufe commerce and induftry from the fliore to the centre.
It is probable that confiderable lakes may be difcovcred near the interior
ranges of mountains ; at prefent that of Maravi, S. lat lo", is the
only one of fuch magnitude as to require notice in a general dcfcription j
and even of this there is no certain nor precife knowledge.

Rivers. 3 Tlie chief river hitherto difcovercd is the Nile, which
rifes in the Gebtl cl Kumr, or mountains of the moon, in a di Uriel
called Donga, N. lat. 8". It is firll known by the name of Bahr cl
Abiad, or the White River ; and about lat. 16 is joined by the Bahr
cl Azrek, or the Blue River; the former tinged, the latter clear ; circum-
ftances which occur in the Maranon, and the MifTouri, in which the chief
ftream is muddy. The Bahr el Azrek or Blue River, was miftaken
for the real Nile by the Portuguofe writers, Alvarez, /rdlcz, &c.
probably mifled by the boafting of the Abyflinians : though it was wtU
Known to the ancients as quite a dillinft river, the Aflapns, flowing
into the Nile from the Colue Palus, now the lake of Dembea. The
comparative conrle of the Nile may be eiUmatedat about 20. o B miles,
thus nearly rivalling t!ic longe'.l Ahatic rivers ; and it is at any rati only
fuppofod to be exceeded I y tlie Ob, Kian Kn, and Iloan Ho ; :is it is
by the Maranon, and prubably by the NMTourr. The Nile forms iome
confiderable cataraA.-?, the chief being that of Giaiui'id in Nubia, before
it gains the level of Egypt, after pafiiiig fome rapids to the S. of Syenc,
Its other features are lutuuatcly conncded with the account of E^ypt,
The other cliief fivcri. aix" tlie Nigir, aiid tiie Gir, the couvie of c;ieh
being probably about icoo B. miles. That of Senegal is alfo confuler-
able. In the fouthern parts theZahiror BuLelaof Congo, and tiiC
Zambezi of Moearangri, are the moft confiderable yet known.

Mountains. ] The mountains of Atlar, uttraded the particular ob-
fervation of tlie ancients, who fabled that they fupported the firmament ;
and derived from them the cekhrated appellations of the Atlantic
Ocean and tht Atlantic Ifluuds. When D'Aiiville fui)i)ofe8 that the

greater

AFRICA.

747

greater Atlas of Ptolemy is Cape Bojador, he evinces that he himfelf
erred by extending the ancient kuowlodge too far to the fouth : and
the greater AtldS would rather feem to be Cape Geer, where the chain
probably terminates, or thence extends in the fame direftion, as not un-
ufual, till it conftitute the ifles called the Canaries. In fome modern
accounts this ridge is confidered as dividing the kingdom of Algier
from X<c-b and Bihdulgerid, that is, the dircftion is S. W, and N. E.
which feems alfo confirmed by Dr. Shaw, though he ^acknowledge con-
fidcrable difficulties *. So far as the materials will admit, the Atlas
may be confidered as extending from Cape Geer in a N. E. direftion,
and giving fource to many rivers flowing N. and S. till it expire in the
kingdom of Tunis. From the accounts of fome French mineralogifts,
who have vifited the weftern extremity, the ilrudlnre is granitic and
primitive.

Farther to the eaft are ranges of mountains or rather hills, in what is
called the Country of Dates, which cannot be confidered as portions of
the Atlantic range. Along the weftern (hores of the Arabian gulf ex-
tends a celebrated ridge partly ef red granite, which fupplied the famous
obelilks of Egypt ; and of which one mountain was ftyled that of eme-
ralds from the quarries of that gem : in the fame vicinity were the
quarries of the celebrated green breccia, obfervable in ancient monu-
ments. The high mountains of Abyflinia feem to branch from the great
central chain already mentioned, or rather from its junftion with that on
the wt'ftof the Red Sea; but the natural hiftory remains unknown. The
con'ieftural ridge proceeding fouth is fuppofed to terminate about lat. 25%
as the high mountains on the north of the European colony of the Cape
pafs E. and W., and the Oraiige River rifing from tlieir northern bafe is
fuppofcd to follow a N. W. and W. dircdion. The mountains of the
Cape Teem chiefly of blue flate, filiceous fandilone, and granular quartz,
interfperfed with large maff'S oi granite.

Deserts.] But the mod ftriking feature of Africa confifts intheim-
menfe deferts which pervade many parts of that continent; and may per-
haps be found to comprife one half of its whole extent. Of thefe the
chief is that called Zaara, or tlie Deferts by eminence, ftrctching from the
fhores of the Atlantic, with few interruptions, to the confines of Egypt,
a fpace of more than furty-five degrees, or about 2500 g. miles, bv a
breadth of twelve degrees, or 720 g. miles. This ocean of fand defies
every exertion of human power or indultry ; but it is interfperfed with
various iflands of different fizes, of which I'ezzan is the chief which has
yet been explored.

In the fouthern pjirts of Africa, towards the European fettlements,
there are alfo deferts of great extent ; but it feems probable that the cen-
tral ridges of mountains, already indicated, prelerve vegetation where they
extend ; and it is underftood that the Portugucfe liave been prevented
from palTing the Congo to Zangucbar by ranges of mountains full of the
moft ferocious animals, and impeded by that thick thorny underwood
which is peculiar to African furefls. Yet there is probably, as in Afia,
a wide defcrt table-land between the E. and W. ranges, pervaded by the
Giagas or Jagas, who fern to be the Tatars of fouthern Africa; and who
are laid fometimes to have roamed from Mozambic to the vicinity of the
Cape of Good Hope.

In arranging the following brief defcription of A.frica, the firft account
(liall be that of Abyflinia, the chief native power, fo far as hitherto dif-

• Travels, 1738, folio, p. iti., &c,

covered.

II ; '■''*

■>^<

El iffi i

'i* 'p '

'%i >

748

AFRICA;

covered. Thence by Egypt, in a geographical progronion, the l-oute
fhall embrace the Mahometan ilates in tlie north, the wel'.erii coaft,
und the Cape of Good Hope. The progrefs fliali then be continued
along the eaftern fhores: nor muft the noble jfland of Madajrafcar be
forgotten. The fmaller iflands, which muft be arranged with Africa,
are Bourbon, Mauritius, &c. : nor can Kerguelen's Land be properly
allotted to any other divifion of the globe. The geographical voyage
then bends to the N. W. by the St. Helena, the iflands of Cape Vcrd, the
Canaries, and Madeira, The whole defcription Ihall be clofed with a
fummary of the difcoveries, and conjeftures, concerning the central parts
0f this great continent.

ABYSSINIA.

Extent. — Original Population. — ProgrcJJtve Geography. — Rel'igion.'m^
Government. — Population. — Army. — Revenues. — Afanners and Cuf*
tonis. — Language. — Cities. — Manuf azures and Commerce. — Climate
atidSeafonsi. — Rivers.— Laies. — Mountains.— -Botany,-— Zoology. -^
Mineralogy, — Natural Curiojities.

CTEl

I -, '' I "'HIS kingdom, which exceeds in anticpiity and ftabi-
■-' X lity any other of the African dates, extends about
eleven degrees in length, from north to foiith, that is, about 660 geogra-
phical or 770 B. miles. The medial breadth is about eight degrees of
longitude, in lat. lo^ or 572 g. miles, about 550 Britifli. On the eaft
the chief boundary is the Red Sea : and it is divided from the kingdom of
Adel by an ideal line : on the fouth, mountains and deferts feem to part
it from Gingiro and Alaba, while on the weft and north, mountains and
foi-efts conilitute the barriers towards Kordofan and Scnnaar. It is divided
into provinces, of which Tigri is remarkable for the tranfit of commerce
to the Arabian gulf ; Gojam for the fources of the Aftapus or fabled
Nile of the Abyfliniaiis ; and Dembca for a noted lake, and Gondar the
capital of the monarchy.

Original popui-ation.] Itfeems fufficientlyeftabli(hed,that Aby(-
fmia was peopled, at a very early period, by a colony from the opponte
fhores of Arabia ; and the people ftill retain Arabian features, though
their complexions be daiker than thofc of their progenitors; but they
have neither the lingular conftruAion of the negro fkull, nor other pe-
culiarities of that race*. In the year 33:; the Abyflinians were converted
,to chriilianity, their general tenets being thofe of the Greek church, re-
ceived from tije patriarch of Alexandria ; but they ftill retain the African
circumciiion, a native and oboriginal rite wholly unconne(Eledwith religion.
As the Arabs impute every thing marvellous to Solomon, fo thefe their
defcendants, in frequent habits of intercourfe with them, have adopted the
fameideas, which are ftrengthened by religious fablcand tradition. Hence
the Abyflinian kings claim a defcent from that monarch, in the fame
mode of reafoning as the Arabs deduce the noble genealogy of their
fteeds from the ftalls of Solomon. The queen of Sheba, or Saba, in
Arabia Felix, has alfo been transferred to the other fide of the gulf.

• Votnrv ha 'with fufKricnt pr'cipitaiion prononnred, tlmt the •nrient Egyptians were
Kegnx^, though he had only to look at their <lcfoeii(iant$ tlic Copts, at any of tbeir an-
rirnt gcinij, or oilier fcjncfcntations, or even at the munimics themlelves to perceive hit

1 Some

ffiiur.

■7'i

ABYSSINIA.

Some credulous travellers liave fondly adopted tliefe idle tales i though
they allow that the AbyfTinian annals are dubious, broken and obfcure;
and the natives had not even the ufe of letters till they were converted
to chriilianity. From more certain fources it 'may be traced that the
Auxumites or Abyflinianswere confiderablycivili/ed inthefixth century,
and carried on fome tjade with Ceylon ♦, In the fame century the
Neguz, or kixifr of Abyflinia, conquered the Arabian monarchy of the
Ifoniorites in Yemen ; and a Roman ambaOador appeared in the- royal
city of Axumc.

Progressive geography.] The progreflive geography of this coun-
try may be traced with tolerable accuracy, from the time of Ptolemy,
who defcribes its chief features, the two large rivers trailed A (tapus and
Aftaboras, now the Balir el Azrek, and the Tacuz/i or Atbara, and
the lake Coloe or Dembea, with the roysl city of Axume, now a village
called Axum. The Arabian geographers fupply the interval between
ancient and modern knowledge.

Religion.] Tlie religion, as already mentioned, is the Chriftian,
with fome peculiar forms and practices, too minute fo he here detailed.
The government is abfolute and hereditary, but with a kind of eleAiou
in the royal family ; and the king is faluted ^ prnflration, A ftrik-
ing and romantic iingularity vfas that the p s were educated on a
lofty and folitai*Y mountain, a praftice long fince abandoned. Concern-
ing the population of this country there feem.s no authentic evidence.
Alvarez pronounces it one of the mod populous regions in tlie world ;
but this leems one of the ufual Spanifli and Portuguefe exaggerations.
By Brucp's account it is extremely difficult to raife the royal army above
thirty thoufand : yet in fo barbarous a ftate it might be concluded that
every tenth perfon joins the army. But fo thin a population is incredi-
ble, and it k'cms probable that it may amount to two or three millions.
The royal revenues confid of the rude products of the various provinces,
the ufe of money being unknown, though gold be found in the fand of
the rivers. One of the chief articles is cattle, which are numerous, and
fold at low price.

Manners and customs.] The natives are of a dark olive com-
plexion ; and the drefs a light robe, bound with a fafh, the head being
covered with a kind of turban f . The houfes are of a conic form, meanly
built of clay, and covered with thatch ; and even the churches are of a
round form, encircled with a portico. Chriilianity feems to hold but a
flight inAuence over the manners and morals, and the priells are little
rcfpefted. Engaged in the conllant fuppreflion of infurrefkions, or iu
petty warfare with the furrounding dates, the government of Abyflinia
pays Utile attention to the progrefs of indudry and civilization. After
fifteen centuries of Chridianitjf* this country recals the image of the bar*
barous ftdtes of Eyropc in the feventh or eighth centuries. Some tra-
vellers afTure us that, at an Abyflinian banquet, th« fleih is cut from the
live oxen. Others however only affirm that the natives are fond of raw
flelh, a tafte not unknown to the people of Tibet, and other countries.
Even religion fometimes bends before the influence of climate, and ])oly-
gamy isnotuuknown among thefe Chriftian3,the kings in particular having
frequently many wives and concubines. The only meal is commonly ia
the evening, and the abdinence of Lent is carefully prefervejd. The
common beverages arc mead and a kind of beer {. The neguz or king

• Gibbon, vii. 349.
{ Alvwex, ful, 300.

Lobo, p. 51.

f Funcet in Lockman, 1, aoOj &c. -

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7^o

ABYSSINIA.

it confidered as the fole proprietor of the land, while privat* property it
reftridled in moveable goods. Tlie language is regarded as an ancient
offspring of the Arabic, and is divided into various dialeds, among
which the chief are the Tigrin or that of the province of Tigri, and the
Amharic. The Galanic is alfo widely diffufed, the Galas being a nume-
rous adjacent people, who frequently difturb the public tranquillity. The
Abyillnian language is illuilrated by the labours of Ludolf, and feveral
miflionaries.

Cities. 3 The chief city in modern times is Gondar, fituated upon a
hill. According to Bruce it contains ten thoufand families, that is about
fifty thoufand fouls : but in the time of Alvarez none of the cities wa^
fuppofed to exceed fifteen hundred houfes. The palace, or rather houfe
of the neguz, is at the weft end, flanked with fquare towers, from the
fummit of which was a view of the fouthern country, as far as the lake of
Tzaua or Dembea^ Axum, the ancient capital, is ftill known by exten-
five ruins, among which are many obeliflts of granite, but without hico-
g'.yphics. The other towns are few and unimportant. On the ♦•ock of
Gefhen, in the province of Amhara, were formerly confined the Abyf-
finian princes : and Abyflinia in general is remarkable for detached pre-
cipitous rocks, appearing at a diftance like caitles and towns, a feature
alio ufual in New Granada, and other north eaftern parts of South Ame-
rica. The rock of Ambazel, in the fame province, has alfo been dedi-
cated to the fame political purpofe, both being near a fmall river wliich
flows into the Bahr el Azrek. The manufaAures and commerce are of
fmall confequence, the latter being chiefly confined to Mafua on the Red
Sea. The earthern ware is decent; but though Cofmo de Medici, among
other artifans, fent manufacturers of glafs to the neguz, the AbyfTiainns
ftill feem ftrangers to this, and many other common fabrics.

Climate and seasons. 3 The climate is attempered by the moun-
tainous nature of the country. From April to September there are
heavy rains ; and in the dry fealon of the fix fucreeding months the nights
•re cold. Alvarez has long ago remarked that the rife of the Nile in
Egypt is occafioned by the violent rains, which, during the fummer,
^eTuGfe the fouthern regions : and he mig^t perhaps iiave added the
xneltnig of the fnows in the African alps, which give fource to the
real Nile, the Bahr el Abiad ; for as the Atlas is covered with perpetual
fnow, which alfo crowns the Andes under the equator, it is probable
that the central ridge of Africa prefents the fame features, and that an
ancient geographer might have been frozen to death in his torrid zone.
AhyfTIiiia is one of the mofl mountainous and precipitous countries in the
world ; but in a few vales the foil is black and fertile. The chief river
is the Bahrel Azrek, or Abyillnian Nile, which hasafpiral origin like
the Orinoco. The fources were, inthefeventeenth century, accurately
dcfcribed by Payz, a Portuguefe miflionary, whofe account was pub-
lifhed by Kircher and IfaacVofTius, and has in our times been very minutely
copied by Bruce. The chief fpring of the Bahr el Azrek is in a fmall
hillock fituated in a marfh. The fuurccsof the real Nile or Bahr el Abiadi
in the alps of Kumri, remain to be explored. Receiving no auxiliary^
ftreams on its long progrefs through Egypt, the Nile is iingularly nar-
row, and fhallow, when compared with other rivers of far fhu tcr courfe.
The Bahr el Azrek is ftyled by the AhyfTinians Abawi, a name of uncer-
tain origin ; and is followed by the Tacuz or Tacuzzi,- the Aftaborat
of the anciLMits, as the Abawi is the Aflapui *. Another confiderable

* The Almwi Dnsfrnti • reniarkaUle ratAra({l at a pince railed Alatn, uot fur fn^m itt rgrc fs
out 01 Uto Ukffoi TuDa* The {nu4 catan^ oi'tliv iNile ii in NuUu, lat. 23*.

1 ftkeao

ABYSSINIA.

7jri^

ftream 18 the Maleff, which joins the Abawi after a parallel courfe on
the weft. Several tributary ftreams join the Abawi and the Tacuz.
Two other rivers, the Hanazo and the Hawaih, flow in an oppofite
diredlion, towards the entrance of the Red Sea, but the firft is faid to
be loft in the fands of Adel.

Lakbs.3 The chief lake is that of Tzana, alfo called Dembea,
from a circumjacent province. This lake is pervaded by the Nile in its
circular progrefs, as the lake of Parima by the Orinoco, being about
60 B. miles in length by half that breadth, but the extent differs
greatly in the dry and wet feafons. Among other iflands there is one
m the mid ft called Tzana, which is faid to have given name to the lake.
In the fouthcrn extremityof the kingdom is ihe lake of Zawaja. a
chief fource of the Hawa(h ; and among many fmaller expanfes of
water may be named the lake of Haik, near the royal rocks of Gefhen
siiid Ambazel.

Mountains.] The mountains of Abyflinia feem irregularly grouped,
being at the junftion of that chain which borders the weftern inores of
the Red Sea, and of that far fuperior ridge which pervades central
Africa from eaft to weft in a N. W. and S. E. direction, giving fource
to the Nigir and the river of Senegal at one extremity, and at the
other to the Gir and Nile. Hence on the eaft fide of Abyflinia the
fidges probably pafs N. and S. and in the fouthern part W. and E.
As in other high ranges of mountains there are three ranks, the chief
elevations being in the middle. On the eaft of the kingdom are the
heights of Taranta ; and towards the centre the Lamalmon ; while in
the fouth is the Ganza. Tellcz aflerts that the loftieft mountains are
thofe of Amhara and Samena, tliat is, towards the centre of the king-
dom, whence rivers flow in all diroftions. The precipices aie tre-
mendous and truly alpine. Abyflinia prefents a rich ticld of natural
hiftory.

Botany.] The few fcantv fragments of Abyflinian botany contained
in the works of Ludolph, Lobo, and Bruce, are unfortunately our only
materials for the flora of eaftern Africa ; nor can thcfe lie wholly de-

{ tended upon, as two of the above authors wrote befor^che exillence of
cientitic botany, and the third, befules his ignorance on this fubjedt,
feems too much difpofed to aggrandife his brief catalogue by reprefent-
ing common plants as rare and even new Ipecips.

The fycamorc (ig, the erythrina corallodendron, the tamarind, the
date,*'the coffee, a lurge tree ufod in boat-building, called by Bruce
rack, and two fpecies of mimofa or acacia, though probably not the
principal trees, are ahnoft the only ones that have hitherto been de-
fcribed. The arborefcent euphorbix are found on fome qf the dry
mountains. A flirub, called in the language of the country, wooginoos,
(the brucea antidyfenterica of Bruce and Gmelin,) is celebrated by the
firitifli traveller for its medicinal virtues in the difeafe of which it bears
the name, and thecuflb orbankfiaof Bruce, which feems to be a fpecies
of rhus, is mentioned by the fame author as a powerful anthelmintic.
A large efculent herbaceous plant analogous to the banana, called by
Bruce enfete, is largely cultivated by the natives as a fubftitute for
bread. The papyrus is found here in (hallow plaflies as in Egypt ; and
the trees that yield the balfam of Gilead, and the myrrh, are roprefented
by the above mentioned traveller as nstives of Abyflinia.

Zoology.] The horfcs are fmall, but fpirited, as ufual in alpine
countries. Cattle and buffaloes are numerous. Among wild animals

art

..,;ii:

75*

ABYSSINIA.

are the elephant, rhinoceros, lion, panther; and it isfaid the giraff of
camelopardalis. I'he hyena is alfo frequent, and fingularly bold andi
ferocious, fo as even to haunt the ilreets of the capital in the night.
The extirpation of thefe animals may be impufri!)Ie in fo mountainous a
country, but the circumitance indicates a miferable defeft of piiMcy.
There are alfo wild boars, gazelles or antelopes, and numerous tribes
of monkeys. The hippopotamus and crocodile fwarm in the lakes and
rivers. Equally numerous are the kinds of birds, among which is the
golden eagle of great lize, but water fowl are rare. The moft remark-'
able infeft is a large fly, from whofe (ling even the lion flies with tre-
pidation. The mineralogy of this alpine country muft be interertiiig,
but it is neglefted by the ignorant natives. Gold is found in the fand
of the rivers. There are tome fmall mines in the provinces of Narca
and Damut. Foflil fait is found on the conftnes of Tigri. It i& faid
that there are no gems, and that even the loyal diadem is decorated
with imitations ; fome aflert that the Abyflinians negleft to fearch for
gold or gems, left the Turks fliould be inftigated by the reported
wealth to invade the country. The chief natural curiofities are the
alpine fcenes, the precipitous detached rocks, the cataraft of Abta,
and the river Marcb in the N. £. which is faid completely to fink under
ground. ,i

EXTE

Extent. -~ Original Population. — Progrejfive Ceogrrf^hy. — Rel'igtnn.-'
Government.-^ Population.-^ Revenues. — Manners and Cujloms. —
Language.-"^ Citits. — Climate. — Face cf the Conntiy. — Rivers. — ;
Lakes. - Mountains. — Botany. — Zoology. — Mineralogy.

_ npHlS country, celebrated from the earlieft ages (jf
NT, &C.J Jl^ antiquity, and recently a diftinguilhed Icene of
Britifh valour, both by fea and land, is about 500 rrtiles in length from
north to fouth ; and, including the greater and lefl'er Oafis, about half
that breadth. But this appearance is merely nominal } Kgypt being
in fad a narrow vale on both fides of the river Nile ; bounded by
parallel ridges of mountains or hills. It fecms to have been originally
peopled from the northern parts of Arabia, or from Syria ; the Egyp-
tians and Abyflinians having been in all ages wholly dillind from thi
native nations of Africa. A late intelligent traveller remarks * that
the Copts, or original inhabitants, have no refemblance of the negro
features or form. The eyes are dark, and the hair often curled, but
not in a greater degree than is occafionally fecn among Europeans.
««The nofe is often aquiline, and though the lips be fometimes thick,
by no means generally fo ; and on the whole a ftrong refemblance may
be traced between the form of vifage in the modern Copts,^ and that
prefented in the ancient mummies, paintincrs, and ilalues. Their com-
plexion, like that of the Arabc, is of a duflcy brown ; and is feptefented
of the fame colour in the paintings in the tombs of Thebes." The
progreflive geography and hillory of Egypt are familiar to moft readers >
and the chief antiquities have been fo repeatedly delcribcd, that the re-
petition would be alike tedious a«)d unncceffary. The chief fcenes of

• Bldwnf, i»rii

antiquity

EGYPT.

.7;a

antMjuhy are the pyramids j and tlie tombs near Thebes, with many-
ruins of temples, and other remains of ancient cities. At Achmuneiii
there are curious ancient paintings, the colours being remarkably freih.'

^Religion, &c.^ The ruling religion in Egypt is the Mahometan ;
but there are many Chriftian Copts who have their priefts and monafteries.
The government is at prefent unfettled, but will probably return to the
ariftocracy of the Beys and Mamelukes. Mr. Browne eftimates the po«
pulationof Egypt at two millions and a half: of whom the city of
Cairo may contain 300,000 *. The revenue under the Beys miglit per«
haps be about one million lierling.

Mamne&s and customs, &c.]] a general Hmilarity pervades the
manners of Mahometan countries, as the Koran regulates moft fprings
of human life : the fanaticifm againil the Franks or Europeans was ex-
treme, but may perhaps be fomewhat moderated by the recent terror of
their arms. The Copts are an ingenious people, and have great fkill in
bufinefs ; whence they are generally employed by the Mahometans as
writers and accomptants. The heat of the climate enforces an abfte-
mious diet : and the houfes, even at Cairo, are moftly miferably dirty
hovels. The common people are difguftingly filthy in their perfons.
But in the dafles fomewhat more at eafe the Coptic women have in*
tereftiitg features, large black eyes ; and though of Hiurt {lacur|^ have
often elegant (hapes. the Coptic language is now only known in
aianufcriptSt the Arabic being univerfally ufed.

Cities. 3 The chief city is Cairo, or in the oriental enunciation Ka-
hira, which may indeed be regarded as the metropolis of Africa, as no
city throughout this wide continent can perhaps boaft a fixth part of
its population. This celebrated metropolis is on the eaft fide of the
Nile, connedied by two fuburbs with the river. On the eaft is a ridge
of that extenfive chain, which accompanies the Nile as far as Upper
Egypt. On the north a plain extends to the delta, which it refembles
in foil and productions* The population, as already mentioned, is elli-
mated at 500,000 ; but the ftreets arc narrow in order to guard againfl
the fun ; and there is an interior wide canal Ityled the Chalige, the
ftcnch of which is occafionally intolerable, though the chief flreet pafs
along its (hore. The principal molk is ornnmented with pillars of mar-
blet and Perfian carpets, and has a library of manufcripts ; great pro-
perty being attached to the foundation. There are many refervoirs for
water, public baths, and bazars or markets, where each trade has jt«
allotted quarter. The houfes are mollly of fand ftone from the moun-
tain behind ; and are fom^times three (lories high, with fiat roofs. The
harams, or apartments of the women, are expenfively fumithed ; but
thofe of the men neat and plain. Before the difcovery qf the Cape of
Good Hope tlie commerce was immenfe ; and Cairo is ftill the centre
of that of eailern Africa, as Tripoli is of the weftern. From Yemea
are imported coffee, drugs, perfumes, and fome gems ; muHin, cotton,
fpicet, from Hindoftan ; and the caravans from Sennaar and Fur brinff
(laves, goldduft, ivory, horns of the rhinoceros, oftrich feathers, gums, and
drugs. From Tunis and Tripoli are brought oil, red caps, and fine
flannel : from Syria, cotton, filk, foap, tobacco : from Conftantinople
white flavcs, Circaflians, or Georgians, the males being the noted
Mamelukes i with all kinds of brafs, copper, and iron manufaflures*
Numeroui negro flavei pafs from Cairo to the more northern Mahometan
countriei. Among the manufa^urei are fugar, fal ammoniac, glaft lamps,
faltprtref gutipowderi red and yellow leather, and pavticularly lineamade

• Brawnt, p. 71,

3 C Qt

754

EGYPT.

of the fine Egyptian tax. To the N. E. of the city are gardens arf^
villas of the great ; but the mountain is of white calcareous fand-tton*,
and deftitute of verdure. On Friday a moflc without the walls is fre-
quented by the ladies as a pilgrimage of pleafure. ^here are light
boats, like Venetian gondolas, ufed on the increafe of the Nile ; and
among the amufemsnts are dancing girls, and rope dancers ; the chief
games being chefs, and Polifli drafts. On folemn occafions fireworks
are exhibited.

Next in confequence are Alexandria, Rofetta, or Rafchid, and Da-
miata. Upper Egypt no longer boafts of a Thebes j and even Girgi^
formerly the capital of this part, begins to decline.^

Commerce.] Though Egypt has ceafed to be the centre of oriental
trade, and the granary of Rome, yet the delta ftill exports great quan-
tities of rice j and Upper Egypt fupplies fome cargoes of wheat. Flax-
is fent to Syria, *and coffee and black flaves to Conftantinople. Other
articles of commerce are already enumerated in the defcription of Cairo.
Alexandria was the chief feat of European trade, which thence paifed by
Rafchid to Cairo. Particular exports were carthamus and feniia : and
about eight hundred bales of European br^ad cloth were imported. The
trade oiDamiatais of fmall confequence.

Climate.] The climate of Egypt is well known to be peculiar, rain
being a mod uncommon phenomenon. The heat is alfo extreme, par-
ticularly from March to November ; while the cool feafon, or a -kind of
fpring, extends through the other months *. The chief malady feems
to be a weaknefs of the eyes, and blindnefs is very common in Egypt..
Some fuppofe that this proceeds from the extreme heat and want of
rain, fo tliat the air is continually impregnated with very fine duft } and
the foil abounding in nitre, the e€e£t is the more acnmonious. The
habit of fleeping in the open At, upon the terraces, expofed to
the noAurnal dews, may however be regarded as Uie chief caufe ; and
when the difeafe appears it is increafed by the fplendour of the fun, re»
fle&cd from the white houfes, and the pale fand of the deferts. The
plague has been erroneoufly fuppofed to originate from Ethiopia, where
It is quite unknown ; and in Egypt it is fuppofed to be always imported
from Conftantinople. The extreme beat ftops it here,, as effeftually is^
the cold in other countries.

Face of thb country.] The general face of the country varies
in particular regions, but is otherwise rather flat and uniform. Alex-
andria is infulated in the defert, while the delta prefents a luxuriant ve-
getation and inundated meadows. The conftant repetition of the palm
and the date tree becomes tedious ; but around Kaf^hid the orange
groves prefent an agreeable variety. Of far the greater part of Egypt
the afped is that of a narrow fertile vale, pervaded by the Nile, and
bounded oo either fide by oarren rocks and mountaint> The towns and
cultivation are chiefly on the eaftern bank {behind which are vaft ranges
of mountains extending to the Arabian gulf, abounding with marble
and porphyry, but almotl deftitute of water, and only inhabited by
Bedouins. Acrofs thefe mountains is a folitary road to Cofleir on the
Red Sea. On the weft the hills lead to a vaft fandy defert, where are
the two Oafes, a name applied to iHattds fituated in land. The appear-
ance of Egypt, under the inundation of the Nile, has been defcribed
rather poetically than hiftorically, the piAUre only applying to parts of
tke deha ; while in other diftriAs there are fome eanalsi but the lands

• Volney, I. «7,

are

EGYPT;

ire generally walefed Iby machine?. According to a late traveller, the
foil in general is fo rich as to require no manure, tt is a pure black-
mouldf free from (lones, and of a very tenacious and unfluous nature.
When left lincultivated it is liable to be cracked to the depth of feveral
feet by the intenfely hot rays of the fun*. From Cairo to Afluan, or
Syreney a diilance of about 360 miles, the banks, except where rockii
appear, prefent no native plant, but rife as it were in fteps, as the Nile
has in different ages worn its way, and are fown with various efculeiit
Vegetables. The agriculture, is of the fimpleit kind, the chief article
bemg wheat, with barley for the horfes ; oats being fcarcely known in
Ada or Africa^ In the delta rice is the chief grain, with maize and
lentils. The lands chiefly belong to the government or to the modes.
The tenants are not reftri^ed to the foil ; but are tit liberty to move on
the expiration of a kind of leafe^

Rivers. 3 The only river of Egypt is the Nile, already defcribed in.
the general view of Africa. Its greateft breadth even here, is about
one-third of a mile ; and the depth about twelve feet ; for, receiving no .
ftreams in Egypt or the Nubian deferts, it bears little of the ufual cha»
rafter of rivers that pervade fo extenfive a courfe. The water is muddy;
when It overflows, of a dirty red ; and cloudy even in April and May.
The river begins to rife about the 19th of June, the Abyffinian raina
having begun in April ; and it ceafes in 0£lobcn It abounds with fifhr
Particularly kinds of falmon and eels. The crocodile is at prefent re-
ftrided to the fouth of AiEut.

Lakes.] There are feveial ejftenfive lakes in tlie northern parts of
Egypt, the largeft being that of Menzala whith communicates with
t]^e lea by one or two outlets. Next is that of Berelos, followed by^
ti^t of Elkoi Thefe ftagnant waters at the mouths of the Nile.
feim \mknown to Ptolemy, and to have been produced, or enlarged,
by the fandy depciltions of the river having raifcd the bed of the fea,
fo that the delta is diminifhing, inilead of being increafed, as fome re-
Cent theories affirm. The lak« of Mareotis, on the foUth of Alexan-
dria, has however become almoft dry. The lake called Kerun, in a
curious diftrift of Egypt forming an excrefcence to the wel(, feems to
be about thirty miles in length and fix miles in breadth ; and iias no
appearance of being artificial, as fome fuppofe, the Moaris of an-
tiquity being probably the Bathen, a long deep cSmal to the d»E.
The Natron lakes muft not be forgotten, being fo called from
their produoion of natron or mineral alkali. They are fituated in the
defert near a remarkable channel, fuppofed to have been anciently a
branch of the Nile, and ftill called the Bahr Belame, or river without
waters.

Mountains.] The mountains have been alread^^ defcribed ap
ranging along the banks of the Nile, but chiefly between that rive|:
and the j^ed Sea. In Lower Egypt, and on the weftem fide of th^
. Nile, they feem to be chiefly ot calcareous fand-ftone, or what ip
• called freeoftone. The pyramids are generally conftrufted of a fofjt
calcareous free.ftone, full of flirlli, like that ufed at Bath ; and th^
rock on which they (land is of the fame fubflance f . In Upper Egypt
the mountains towards the Red Sea are porphyreous and granitic. Oa
pafllhg towards CoiTeir the rugged and lofty rocks have a grand and
terrific appearance, confiftiag chiefly of red granite, and porphyry red
and greeoi the latter being the ophite vr fnake-ftone of the aocKntv

9 BrowM, p. 64t

3C a

t b.l7»i

- *,

Hert

III

I^VjI

756

tGYPt.

Here is alfo found the celebrated green filiceoufl breccia above men-
tioned i it arifes in the neighbourhood of ferpentine, under a blue
fchiftus. There are alfo red and other marbles. Near Syene, Po-
cocke obferved the quarries of red granite, whence the ancient obeliflcs
were dug ; their great lengtli being hollowed out from the rock, in the
form of fteps, for the convenience of working, and eafy carriage to the
Nile.

Botany.] The rich vallty of the Nile has been for fo many ages
under the dominion of rnan, and can boaft the proud fucceifion of fo
many hundred harvelU, that it u by no means eafy to diftinguifh its
native vegetables from thofe which have been introduced at various pe-
riods for proMt or pleafure, and have gradually naturalized themfelves
in the foil of Egypt. Wherever the annual inundations extend, a num-
ber of feeds, brought down by the torrent from Ethiopia nnd Abylfinia,
mull be depofited together with the fertilizing mud, which, vegetating
regularly every year, are probably miftaken far truly indigenous plants.
We (hall therefore mention fuch of the Egyptian vegetables as are of
mod importance, either by their prefent ufe or ancient fame, without
being very felicitous to examine whether they are real natives or natu-
ralized ftrangers.

The lutus and papyrus have always been the appropriate decorations
of the god of the Nile : the former of thefe is a fpecies of water lily,
which at the retreat of the inundation covers all the canals and (hallow

J tools with its broad round leaves, among which are its cup-fliaped blof*
bms of pure white, or caerulean blue, repofuig with inimitable grace
on the furface of the water. The papyrus, facred to literature, after
having long vanifhed from the borders of the Nile, has at length been
again recognifed on its banks, and in the Ihallow plafhes of the delta.
The arum colocafia of ancient fame is dill cultivated in Egypt for its
large efculent roots. The Egyptian fycamore fig, probably introduced
from the oppofitc (hore of Arabia, is of peculiar value from its fruit,
its depth of (hade, and the vigour with which it grows, even on the
fandy frontiers of the defert. The date palm, the piftachia, the orien-
tal plane, and the bead tree, adorn the (hore, and are cultivated in the
vicinity of moft of the towns. The cyprefs over(hadows the burial
frrounds, and the caper bu(h roots itfelf in the ruins of Egyptian,
Greek, and Roman civilization. The fenna, the mimcfa nilotica, and
the hcnnd, arc alfo charadleriftic of Egypt ; from the latter of thefe
the women prepare that yellow dye with which they tinge the nails of
their fingers. AU,the moft exquifite of the European fruits, fuch as
the almond, the orange, pomegranate, fig, peach, and apricot, are cul*
tivated here with great affidutty and fucccls ; the various kinds of me-
lons and gourds grow to full perfe£lion, and compofe no unimportant
Sortion of the rood of the inhabitants ; and mingled with thefe pro*
actions of the temperate regions are found the plantain, the fugar
cane, the cotton, and a few otiiers, that have formerly been imported
hither from the tropical climates.

Zoology.] The animals of Egypt^^fle been repeatedly defcribed.
A French naturahft feems recently to hil^ demonttrated from the fize
ef the bones, and other circumiUnces, that the noted ibis of the 9n«
cients was not a kind of ftork, as commonly conceive^* but%»cur)ew.
The mineralogy of Egypt is not opulent, nor does it feem ever to have
orodvced any of the metals. A mountain toward* the Red Sea is
Kyled that of emeralds ; and even now the beft emenddl are by the Per-
funt called thofe of Said or Upper Egypt .*H>ut iht ninti are no longer

worked^

EGYPT.

757

workedt and even the fpot feems unknown. Befides the natron lakes,
there are fome mineral fprings, and one of fait water near Cairo, whick
is fuppofed to have medical virtues. The whole country may be re-
garded as one natural curiofity.

Between Egypt and Abyflinia is an extenilve tra£l, about 600 miles
in length, and 500 in breadth, by the ancients flyled Ethiopia, but
more precifely by the Arabian- geographers called Nubia. The ifle of
Meroe was formed by the junAion of the Allaboras with the Nile;
and it is not improbable that a fouthern channel, defcribed by Ptolemy,
may fince have been dried up by the encroaching defert. The greateCk
part of Nubia is occupied by wild deferts on the eaft and wed : but on
the Nile are two ftates of fome little confequence, Doiigola on the
north, and Senaar on the fouth. Senaar was in a ilatc of fervile war,
the flaves having ufurped the government, when Mr. Browne viflted
Darfur. Bruce defcribes his interview with the king, or rather chief,
and his diftinguilhed haram. In Augult and September the country
around the city prefents a pleafant verdure : but the people are deceitful
and ferocious. The general drefs is a long blue fhirt ; and the food
moftly millet, though there be no want of cattle. Dongola does not
merit a defcription ; and the whole of Nubia is a miferable country, in-
habited by a miferable people *,

MAHOMETAN STATES IN THE NORTH.

^ . TRtPOLi. — Tunis. — Algibr. — Morocco.

THESE are Tripoli, Turn's, Algier, and Morocco. Of thefe Tri-
poli is mod extenfive and the leaft known. The territories reach
from the gulf of Cabes, the Icfler Syrtis of antiquity, to the confines
of Egypt, being chiefly the Africa Proper, and Lybia of the ancients;
but a great p^rt is defert. Tripoli does not appear to be ancient,
being perhaps the port of Pifidon of Ptolemy. The metropolis of
Arabian Africa was Cairoan, about fifty miles to *\\e S. of Tunis,
where refided the governors appointed by the califs , : J^amafcus ; and
about the year 800 they afTumed royal authority, ar. 1 the dynafty of
the Fatimites paffed from Africa to Egypt. The Zeirites aUerwardg
reigned at Cairoan. Tripoli was befieged by the Egyptians, A.D. 877,
andA.D. loco. In 1 146 it was fei^sed by the Normans from Sicily,
who held this coaft till 1159. The power of the Turks is recent,
only dating from 1514, when BarbarofTa feized Algier; but it hag
continued more peculiarly at Tripoli f , where the Bey was conHdered
as immediately fubjeA to the Porte, a Turkifli pafha fuperintending bis
conduct ; and the combined taxations have effectually ruined the coun-

* S«e the Travels of Poncct, a Fivqch phyficlan, 1698, in ItOckman's Travels of the
Jefults, i. 199. Near ScnnaaT were foreftsof acacia, full oi jmroqucts.

t 111* emperor Charles V. took Tripoli, and rcfigiied it to the knights of Malta, who
ftws loft diis poflcflion, but their proximity has Aided the piracy nf the Tripoiitans. In
1686 Utis city was humbled by tlie bombardmeot qf a French fleet, and fcnt an eBibtJRy
ef fubniilioB to Ltmis XI Vi

3C3

m
if,

T'l

^•I'lil^

758 MAHOMETAN STATES IN THE NORTH.

try. Famine is alfo no unufual circumftance ; and the depredations of
the Arabs form an additional calamity. The town of Tripoli is in a
low fituation,, but to the S. are plantations of date trees and verdant
hills, v.?hich relieve the tamenefs of the fcene. It is in a ftate of rapid
decjiy, fcarcely four miles in circumference, and thinly peopled ; the an-
cient cafUe, though ftill the refidence of the reigning family, being
in a ruinous condition. At prefent the Bey feems to be honoured or
difgraced with the title and fun Aions of paflia ; while the prince's eldeft
fon has the title of Bey. Even the tributary Arabs are often in a ftate
of infurre£lion ; and the month of December, when the grafs begins to
prefent fufficient forage, is a common feafon of warfare. There are
olive and date trees, white thorn, and Spanifli broom ; but the fields of
grain are few and fcanty. Towards Mefurarta the vegetation is more
luxuriant ; but of the ancient Cyrene, an interefting fpot, there is no
. recent account.

Next on the weft is Tunis, the central region of northern Afn'ca, the
weftern part of the proper Africa of antiquity, and fonnerly the chief
feat of Carthaginian power. In the middle ages Tripoli was fubje^ to
Tunis, which was feized by BarbaroiTa in I533« ^" ^^^ fummer the
Bey of Tunis refides in the northern part, and in winter retires to the
fouth, where there is a lake of confiderable extent, the Palus Tritonis
"of antiquity. The chief river is the Mejerda, the Bagrada, of claflical
repute. The chain of Atlas feems here to terminate, in Cape Bon,
being called the mountains of Mega^a. Uzelettj &c. Among the
mineral produdlions are alabafter, ^ryftal, boleSf iron, lead. The cattle
, are fmall and flender, and the horf^s ha\e degenerated. The flieep of
Zaara are as tall as fallow deer. There are lions, panthers, hyenas,
chakals, and other ferocious animals. The manufeaureg are velvets,
filks, linen, and red caps worn by the common people. In general, the
Tunifians are renowned as the moft polite and ciyilized among the Ma-
hometans of Africa, a chara£ter for which they are probably indebted
to the fituation of their country, for many ages the feat of the chief
'African powers. The ruins of Carthage, not far to the N.El. of Tunis,
have been accurately illuftrated hj Dr. Shaw ♦. The town of Tunis is
about three miles in circumference, containing about ten thoufand
houfes, or perhaps 50,000 fouls. The chief exports feem to be woollen
Huffs, redcaps, gold du ft* lead, oil, Morocco leather: and the com«
inerce with France was confiderable.

Algier may be regarded as the laft Mahometan ftate on the Mediter*
ranean, for Morocco is chiefly extended along the Atlantic. In the
thirteenth century Africa was firft divided into thofe petty royalties,
tirhich ftill fubfift with few variations. In 15 14 Barbaroffa feized Al-
gier, which afterwards became a noted feat of pirates ; and one of the
Deys candidly declared that the country was a neft of robbers, and he
' was their chief. This city is fuppofed by Shaw to be the ancient Ico-
iium, and is not above a mile and a half in circuit, while the inhabitants
are exaggerated to more than a hundred thoufand f : but probably half
■ that number would be nearer the truth. It is ludicrous to behold this
' power exa£iing tribute from the maritime ftates of Chriftendom^ while
two (hips of war, maintained at the general expence, might block up
the port, and extinguifh the claims and the piracy. The chief river is

• ThU citj »ts fuunilcd tbout 1 350 or 13^3 jcan before t|M biffb of QaiP, «i spfean
. Iron Herodotus and the Paiian Chrouidc.

f Shaw, p. fit.

tll«

HIAHOMETAN STATES IN THE NORTH. 7^9

tlie Sliellify riiing from the northern fide of the Atlas, at the Wal Jedi
from the fouthernf and afterwards bending to the weft, being the Clii-
nala of antiquity, while , the , latter is tHe Zabus. The kingdom of Al-
gier chiefly eomprifes the ^umidia and part of the Mauritania of the
ancients, being bounded on the S. hy Getdia and the chains of the
Atlas, called Lowat and Ammer ; which are, however, by Shaw's ac-
count of 'fmall elevation, and the grand ridges of the Atlas are towards
ithe weft, in the kingdom of Morocco ^. The mountain of Jurjura is
:the higheft in Barbary^ being about eight leagues in length, in a N.E.
and S. W. dire£tion, full of rock« and precipices, but only covered with
fnow during the winter. This mountain is about 60 B. miles' to the
S.E. of Algier, and perhaps forms a part of the real Atlantic chain.
The produaions are in general the fame with thofe of Tunis. There
are many fait rivers and fprings, and there is a mountain of fait near
the lake, called Marks f t there are likewife feveral mineral fprings ;
and earthquakes are not uncommon.

Of the empire, or rather kingdom of Morocco, an intereltuig ac-
count has lately been publilhed by an Englifh traveller, who from his
jnedical character had accefs even to the harams of the king, and one
of the princes. This nominal empire confifts indeed of feveral fmall
kingdoms^ as the old Englifh monarchy was compofed of the feven
Jcingdoms of the heptarchy { but the ftyle of emperor feems to have
«rifen in the fourteenth century, when the fultan of Morocco was for a
Ihort time fovereign of all the northern ftates of Africa. The proper
ilyle is that of iharif, or (heref, derived from a fiippofed defcendant of
Mahomet, who feized the fceptre about the year 1500. The kingdom
of Fez has been united to Morocco, fince it tirft became an independent
fovereignty in the thirteenth century; while that of Tremefin was
joined to the deydom of Algier. The fovereigns of Morocco being of
'the houfe of Merini, they were ftyled Al Merinis, and corruptly by
the Spaniih, and other authors, kings of Balmerin, being latterly the
moft powerful of the African princes. In the hands of an induftri-
ous people the kingdom of Morocco, or ancient Mauritania, might
,ftill be of confiderable importance : but, from ignorance and want of
policy, the weftern harbours are, by Mr. Lempriere's report, blocked
up with fand ; fo that Morocco may be effaced from the lift of maritime
powers or pirates. There are heaths of great extent ; and the ridge of
Atlas hei« difplays its lofty fummits and moft extenfive wildnefs ; but
many diftrids are fertile, particularly that of Tafilet on the S. E. fide
of the Atlantic ridge. In the fummer months the heat is tempered by
:breezes from the Atlas, always clothed with fnow. The Moors of
the towns are fomewhat civilized, particularly the mercantile ^lafs, an4
the wandering Arabs hofpitable j but the Brebes or Brebcrs, who gave
name to Barbary^ are a fierce and obftinate race of the ancient natives ;
and, fecuit in the mountainous 'jneceffep, defv the govemmenty being
■chiefly ruled by ele&ive fheijks. The univerfal food uco/co/u, confifting
of bits of pafte about the fize of rice crumbled into an earthen coIan«
der, and cooked by the fteam of boiled meat and vegetables, which are
all ferved up together in an earthen difli, with buttei' and fpices. Thif
l^ew, in which nothing is loft, even the fteam being received by the

* Between Cape Sp«rtel and Anilla the Inland mouut^ns are obferved fiem the f«a»
covered with fnow even in May. Sail. Dir. p. 1.

t What the Moow call ShoU or Shatt u a iandy pbia, but femctiinM ovwB»»fd, tai
frhkb itcMKi five &aaU rivtn. &haiv, 114.

W ''

w" ill

;%i

J,:

76o MAHOMETAN STATES IN THE NORTH.

pafte, is the favourite meal of the peafant and the monarch. The do-
meftic animals are much the fame as thofe of Europe, except the camel ;
and dromedaries of great fwiftnefa are procured from Guinea. The
oxen and (heep are fmall, but well flavoured : fowls and jiigeons plenti-
ful, but ducks rare, and geefe and turkeys unknown. There is plenty
of game ; and ftorks are common, being free from moleftation. in the
ridge of Atlas there are mines ofviron, neglefted by the unflcilful
Moors; but copper is wrought near Tanidant. The Portuguefe for-
merly held feveral places on the coaft, as Santa Cruz in the S. and Tan-
gier in the N. ; while the Spaniards ftill retain Ceuta. The chief Ma-
hometan port is Tetuan, which is rather an open road ; but the town is
in a pidurefque fituation, and the people particularly friendly to the
En rlifh. The city of Morocco is fituated in a fertile plain, variegated
with clumps of palm trees and Hirubs, and watered by feveral lucid
ftreams from the Atlas : the extent is confiderablc, fin-rounded by very
ilrong walls of tnbbyj a mixture of ftone and mortar which becomes as
hard as rock. The chief buildings are the royal palace and the moHcs ;"
and there is a confiderableyVwry or quarter inhabited by Jews. The
palace confifts of detached pavilions, as common in the eaft ; and even
the moiks are fquares with porticoes, like that of Mecca, the climate not
requiring a covered edifice like our churches, or the Turkifh mofks,
often originally chriftian edifices. The drcfs of the Moors is rather An-
gular ; and the ladies not only paint their cheeks and chins with deep
red, but make a long black mark on their forehead, another on the tip
of the nofe, and feveral on the cheeks. The women of the haram are
ignorant and childifh, their employments being chatting in circles and
eating cofcofu.

Botany. 3 The territory now occupied by the Barbary or piratical
itates, eiitending from the frontiers of Egypt to the Atlantic ocean in
one diredion, and from the Mediterranean Sea to the Great Defert in
the other, includes a traft of country proverbial' in better times for its
never failing fertility. The foil, partaking of the general charad^er of
Africa, is light and fandy with intervening rocks, though the vales of
Mount Atlas, and of the fmall ftreams that defcend into the Mediterra.
nean, are overfpread with a deep rich well watered mould. Hence it
is that the mod charafteriftic of the indigenous vegetables are fuch as
flourifh on the open fliorr, or root themfelves in the driving fand ; while
the plants of rareft occurrence are the natives of marfhes and forcfts.
Many of the falinc fucculent fpecies, a few of the bulbous-rooted, to-
gether with various kinds of tough long-rooted graffes, intermixed here
and there with the heliotropium, foldauclla and cryngo, overfpread the
flat arid (hore, and prevent it from drifting with every wind. The dry
and rocky intervals between the valleys of the interior bear a near re-
femblance to the heaths of Spain : like thefe they abound in fcattered
groves of cork trees and ever-green oaks, beneath whofe fhaSe the fage,
the lavender, and other aromatic plants are found abundantly and in
high perfedion. The arborefcent broom, the various fpecies of ciftu$,
the mignonette, the fumach* the tree heath, together with the aIoe»
agave, and feveral kinds of euphorbia and cadus, all of them patient
of heat and drought, adorn the interrupted rocks, and afford both food
and flielter to the goats by which they are inhabited. The valleys and
glens are pi-ofufe of beauty and fragrance ; befides the bay, the myrtle*
the pomegranate, the olive, the jalmine, and oleander, which are comt
mon both to Africa and the fouth of Europe, we find here, in a truly
^il4 ftate, the Aleppo pine, t >e red juniperi the date-paloij the pilUt

MAHOMETAN STATES IN THE NORTH. 761

chia, the orange, andf fuperior even to the orange bloflbm in odour, the
white muik role.

To the fouth of thefe chief Mahometan dates are feveral countries
little explored, as Drah, Sijelmiffa, or Segulmefla, and the Land of
Dates *t fo called becaufe that fruit conftitutes the chief food of the
inhabitants. Fezzan is a large and remarkable oafis in the north of the
great defert. The more central parts will be briefly illuftrated towards
the conclufion of this ftiort defcription of Africa. Suffice it here to
obferve that, with a few exceptions of the more barbarous diilrids, the %
Mahometan faith extends to the great central ridge of mountains, or
within ten degrees of the equator : and wretched muil thofe regions
liave been into which Mahometans could introduce induilryand civiliza-
tion ; while in Europe and Afia they are the fathers oi deilru£tion and
|)arbahfm.

■.%>}

THE WESTERN COAST.

Jalofs, Fovlahs, and other TriBes—Bzn is. — LoANGO.--CoNG0t

ON this fide of Africa, fo far as hitherto explored, are innumerable
tribes, as little meriting particular defcription as thofe of Ame-
rica. The Jalofs or Yolofs and Foulahs are the chief races on' the rivers
Senegal and Gambia ; while Guinea, divided into the Grain, or more

Sroperly Windward coaft. Ivory coaft, and Gold coaft, chiefly fupplies
aves, a trade which commenced in 1517, by a patent from the emperor
Charles V. obtained at the inftance of Las Cafas, the noted prote6lor
of the American favaees. The fettlements in Guinea are chieflf
Portuguefe ; and the flaves from the river Senegal are called Man*
dingos, from an inland country of that name ; while thofe from the

fold coaft are called Koromantees; and thofe towards Benin Eboesf.
or thefe flaves Britifli goods have been exported to the annual value of
800,000 1.

The countries of Benin and Calabar, which feem to afford the eafieft
accefs towrards the interior are followed by other favage tribes. The
kingdoms of Congo and Angola are celebrated in Portuguefe n^trrationt*
and prefent the moft intereftmg objefts in this wide extent of territory.
To the fouth of thefe there is deep obfcurity till we arrive at the nations
or tribes called Great and Little Nemakas, and Kaffers or Kouffis, om
the north of the European colony of the Cape of Good Hope.

The repeated defcription of the manners of^ negro tribes would little
intereft the reader, and only a few peculiarities (hsdl be remarked. The
Yalofs are an afUve and warlike race, and efteemed the moft handfome
of the neeroes. The Mandingos are widely diffufed, and of a mild and
fociable (ufpofltion. Tliey wear cotton frocks of their own manufadure t
but their hats and funpiiture are of the fimpleft kind. The Foulahs near
|he river Gambia, are chiefly of a tawney complexion, with filky hair an^

• According to fomc, BUtitulgerid imnlies the Land of Datet ; but Br. ShaMr, p. s,
Uyt It fliould b« Blaidii Jerid or Dry Countiy. In Ard>tc it would feem the Land of
t^tm is Guatm Tamar,

f Edwatdt's .Wsft Indin, U. SO. The fortt and faAoriex iMslonging to Etuapcanf tie
|la«tt fort^{ li Datdi, 14 £|igHlh| « Ponuguefc, « Danifli, 3 FisiKh. lb. i3.

pleafing

f6i

THE WESTERN COAST.

pfcafing features, being probably tribes that fled from Matiritania. Th«
^oulahs of Guinea are of a very different defcription, and the identity
«f name ou^jht to have been avoided, Teembo, the capital of the
^tter, contains about 7000 inhabitants; and there are iron mines worked
hv women, befides fome maaufaftures in filver, wood, and leather.
Thefe Foulahs, it is faid, can bring into the field not lefs than i6,ooi
cavalry; and^ being iiirrounded by twenty-four pagan nations or tribes,
thefe Mahometans never hefitate to make war for the fake of procuring
flaves. To the weft of thefe Foulahs is the Englifli fettlemeht of Sierra
I«eone, formed in 1 787, for t,he benevolent purpofe of promoting
African civilization.

At the other extremity of this coaft are the Nemakas, whofe man-
ners have been iUuftrated by that romantic cnthufiaft Le Vaillant, who
alfo pretends to have obferved other tribes called Korakas and Hou-
xouanas j the latter being, by his account, an aAive and hardy race,
rather of a leaden, colour, but with nodes ftill flatter than thofe of the
HottMitots *.

The kingdom of Benin is averted to be very confidcrabic ; and it is faid
that the monarch could raife an army of one hundred thoufand. The
capital^ of the fame name, is faid to contain thirty ftreets of low houfes,
while the inhabitants are remarkable for cleanlinefs and propriety of be-
Imviour. They are faid to acknowledge a fupreme benevolent deity,
whofe worfliip they deem fuperfluous, as he can neitlier be influenced^
enraged, or appeafcd ; Isut they offer facritices to inferior and malignanjc
fpirits, in order to foothe their enmity.

Loango is a country of no fmall extent, on the north of Congo, and
ef which an account has been publiflied by Pitrafetta and others. The
people are induftrious, as there are weavers, fmiths, potters, carpenters,
and makers of canoes, caps, and beads. The exports are elephants'
teeth, copper, tin, lead, iron. The conimon people are held in a kind
of flavery, but many migrate. The fuperilition of magic prevails, a|
tifual among the African tribes. The capital Bouali is t)v the French
called Loango. The dry feafon begins with April and enos with 0£to-
•l>er } but the greateft heat is iu the rainy feafon, or the other fix months.
£ven the mountains are of mere clay, without rock or ftone : and the
irivers do not increafe in the rainy feafon. The foil fcems to be wholly
• compaf^ clay, which fometinics fplits into vatt abyffes. Vegetation
liowevcr flouriflies ; and among the trees are the cocoa, banana, orange,
lemon, pimento, with the cotton ihrub, and fugar cane. The palm
wine, a favourite African beverage, is procured by piercing the tree
where the fruit begins to fwell from the trunk.

The latcft accoimt of Congo fecms to be that by John Anthony
Cavazzi de Monte Cuculo, a capuchin mifljonary. which appears how-
ever to be foinewhat tainted with falfc miracles and fanaticifm f . In
OAobcr begins what maybe called the fpring, but heavy rains con>
tinue for two or three months. About the end of .lanuary is one har-
Tcft ; and in March more gentle rains commence and continue till May,
^hen there is a fecond dry fiafon or harveft ; their nofiinal winter be-
ginning ill July. The Zahir or Zair is a grand afld rapi^ river, and the
mouth Aiid to be live leagues in width, freflienin^ the m to a great dif-
tance. It has vail cataradli, near one of which is a mine of bright
yellow copper. The houfes are round thatchtd hovels, even in the

• Srrand Jotintry, ill. U«: but fc« Da|i|)<r'i Aifibfor Um UwilafVUt

f U was|>rliMetlat i5i>l>igtw, 1GI7« fuUu.

fhicf

THE WESTERN COAST.

chief city, called St. Salvador by the Portuguese. The Congoefii
have the negro colour without the features* which rather refembk the
European ; hair fometitnes of a deep reddilh brown, and eyes of a dar^K
green or fca colour. Once a year the graves are opened, and, the
bodies or bones decorated. This cuftom teems peculiar to Africa and
America. Congo produces millet, maize, and excellent fruits ; with
the fugar cane, and varieties of the palm. There are faid to be mines
of iron and copper ; and among the animals is named the cojas morroup
which feems the orang outang of Borneo. The accounts of the Portu«

fuefe writers, the chief authorities concerning Congo and the neigh-
ouring ftates, often border fo much on the fabulous, that amidlt doubt*
ful ciicumftances brevity becomes the fafeft choice.

Botany of the wisterm coast.] This coaft appears m general
to be fufficiently well watered, and accordingly bears a ftriking refem-
blance in its vegetable produ^ions to the oppofite ihore of the Ame-
rican continent. The ufual plants of the tropical climates are found
hei« in perfe^ion and in great abundance : but we yet want a fcientific
catalogue ^f indigenous vegetables to afcertain what are the peculiar
and charaAeridic features of its flora, "^he low fliores of the rivers, as
far as the tide reaches, are bordered with mangroves and bamboos ; the
luxuriant Guinea grafs, the fugar cane, ginger, turmeric, and cocoa-nut*
with various other fpecies of palms, root themfelves in the moiil deep
foils. Numerous kinds of dyeing woods, and of timber fit for orna-
mental or uleful purpofes, abound in the forefts* Indigo and cotton of
a fuperior quality are met with both wild and cultivated. The fweet
caiFava, differing from the American manioc in being perfe£tly innoxious
and wholefome even without cooking, the Guinea pepper or capiicum*
the yam, fweet potatoe, rice, maize» gourds and melons of all kinds,
are the principal food of the inhabitants, and probably are indigenous.
The copal tree, the fandal wood, ebony, and mimofa Senegal, from
which exudes the luucilaginous gum of the fame name, are plentiful ia
|he drier and (andy parts of the country.

COLONY OF THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE,

THIS territory, upon the recent Englilh conqueft, was found to be
of more confiderable extent than had been fuppofed, being 550
Engliih miles in length, and 233 in breadth, comprehending an aiva of
128,150 fquare miles*. The white inhabitants, excluftve of Cape
Town, do not exceed 15,000, and the whole may be about 20,000.
The Dutch Settlement was formed in i66o. To the S. E. of Cape
Town are fome fmall vineyards, which yield the noted wine called
Conftantia ; and even in remote diftriits there aie plantations of various
kinds : but large tra^s are irrecoverably barren, confitting of ranges of
mountains, and level plains of hard clay fprinklcd with fand, commonly
called karroos. The moMntainous chains run from E. to W., being
probably terminating branches of a fpine palling N. and S. like thofi
of the Uralian ridge. The firft ridge is from twenty to fixty miles from
^he f«a ; the fecond, called tKe Zwart Berg, or Black mountain, is more

f Bsrrow'a Travels, lioi, 4t«. p. t.

lofty

\ I

7(^4

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

lofty and rugged, and about the fame diftance from the firft ; the thirl
18 the Nieuveld, which with the fecond inclofes a great karroo or dcfert
fifing like a terrace about 3C0 miles in length E. and W., and 80
ii> breadth. The country is more fertile towards the Indian ocean than
towards the Atlantic, a charadler which feems to pervade Africa, as
©n. the eaft is Abyfllnia, while on the weft is the Zaara. The chief
feforts of trading veiFe'ls are Falfe Bay on the S. und Table Bay on the
K.« which opens to Cape Town. The mountains in the vicinity of
the Cape are of blue fchiftus, and mdurated clay, mingkd with balls
of granite. On the granite and clay is filiceous fandftotie,, furmounted
by granular quartz : this defcription may extend to mod of the inland
mountains ;' but thofe called the Copper mountains, S. lat. ig^ 40',
fupply a prodigious quantity of that metal in the form of vitreous ore,
-which is fmelted by the Damaras, a Kaffer or Kouffi nation in the
vicinity. There are fome wolves and hyenas, and various kinds of an-
telopes ; and, among birds, eagles, vultures, kites, crows, turtle doves,
&c. ; more inland are all the wild and ferocious animals of Africa, and
hippopotami abound in the rivers.

. Botany.] There are few places whofe natural hiftory has been fo
ably explored as the territory of the Dutch colony at the Cape of Good
Hope and the countries adjacent ; nor does any ieem to have better re-
paid the labour of refcarch. The botany of fouthem Africa is more
rich and peculiar than that of any other country, and maft of the iin>
gular and beautiful inhabitants of our ftoves and green-boufes have been
hence procured. Numbers however, equally remarkable, remain behind,
vrivich from their fize, or from accident, or from the neceflity of felec-
tion among a multitude, are as yet Grangers to European cultivation.
The clafs of bulbous-rooted plants alone might be feieAed as peculiarly
charaderiftic of the Cape, fur no where elfe are they found fo abundant,
fo various, or fo fplendid. What pen can dcfcribc the innumerable gay
and fragrant varieties of the ixia ; who can reckon up the beautiful
fpecies of iris, morxa, gladiolus, amaryllis, hxmanthus, and pancratium,
which at the conchiiion of the autumnal rains adorn the meadows at the
foot of the mountains with every brilliant hue that can be imagined ?
At other fcafons the bright gnaphaliums, the xcranthemiim fulgidum,
and fpeciofifiimum, remarkable for their flowers of red, yellow and
filky white, the fcentcd geraniums glowing on the fides of the hills in«
termixed with the hundred fpecies of Ihrubhy and aiborcfccnl heaths,
compofe^ fccne of unrivalled magnitlccnce, where the eye wanders with
delight from beauty to beauty, till, fatigued with fpicndour, it repofe
cm the light filvery fohagc of the protea arn-cntea, on the vigorous
jfreen of the fpreading oaic, or the ftill deeper hue of the afpiring ftone
pii»e. The hard and ftony waftcs are fcnltcrcd over with fucculent
plants of the fliapelia, mifembvyanthemum, euphorbia, crafTula, cotyledon,
and aloe ; while fuch of them as afTume the height and character of
trees, mixed with the weeping willow and mimolW of various kinds,
overtpread the banks of the temporary torrents. The forr^fts arc prin-
cipally on the eaftern border of the fettlement, and have been but little
explored t they fumifh the iron wood, the African oak, the HsfTagai
wood, the yellow wood, a few fprrics of Znmia or Sago palm, the
fcarlct- flowered gnaiacumt and tin; incomparably fplendid Ij^lilfta
rrginjB.

For a more minute account of this interefting colony, the on!y
European fclllrmcnt in Africa that dcfcrvos the name, the reader is re-
fcncd to lliu i:iccUcnt work already <;uoted, which forms a iliiking emu

THE EASTERN COAST.

jSs

traft with the ^afconades of Le Vaillant* Mr. Barrow vifited the
Kouflis in the ean ; and conceives that a beh of that race fpreads acroik
to the Atlantic. The Nemakas are of the fame race with the Hatten-
tots ; but the Damaras on the Copper Mountains, and north to the
Orange river and tropic of Capricorn, are Kou(fi», a race whom our
author fu^pefts to be of Arabian extra£l, as they widely differ from
the Hottentots and the negroes, and are acquainted with the fmehing
of coj^er, and fome other rude arts. The country of the Damaras i*
fo ban-en and fandy that they cannot keep cattle. The Orange river,
alfo called the Groot or Great river, feemsto rife about S. lat. 30", lony
28° E. from Greenwich, and paffes W. by N. till it join the fea between
the Great and Little Nemakas. There are high catarafts, and it has
inundations like the Nile. 'On the ihores are carnelians, calcedonies,
and agates. *' The rains in the great mountains beyond the Kaff'er« and
the Tambookies, along the feet of which the Orange river runs, col-
ledling their tributary ftreams in its paffage, commence in November,
and caufe the inundations to take place towards the Nemaka country
in December." Mr. Barrow's account terminates with part of the
country of the little Nemak:i8, incUided in the colony j beyond whish
are the Copper Mountains and fandy Jcfcrts.

. : • - ' THE EASTERN COAST.

Natal. — Deiagoa.-^Moc&KAScA.-^Mozaml'u, tlfc.—AJei,

ON K'aving the colonial poffcflions, in this direAion, firft appear the
KafFers, or properly KoufTis, and the Tambookies, beyond whom
Cik^ra is deep obfcurity. What is called the coaft of Natal, is followed
by the bay of Delagoa. Farther to the north, and oppofitc to the
large ifle of Madagafcar, are Sabia, Sofala, and Mocaranga, region*
better known from Portiigxiefc narratives. The coafts of Mozambico
and Zangucbar, on the lail of which is the city of Melinda, vifited by
Vafco de Gama, are fitccecded by the defert and obfcure coalts o£
Ajan and Adel ; the lad bordering on Abyfllnia, and completing the
circuit of Africa.

Of the bay of Dolagoa, and the adjacent country, an account hat
recently been given ; and it is frtquently vifited by veffels employed in.
the Southern whale jQniery *. One of the chief rivers which enter die
bay is the Mafumo : and the natives on the northern and fouthem
banks follow diftinA cuftom;, the men on the former wearing fingular
helmets of draw. On the fouthern fide are fourteen chiefs, lubjcCT t9
a king called CapcUeh, whofc dominions extend about 200 miles inland,
sad about ioj •n the fea fhorc, computed by the natives in days*
journeys of twenty miles each. Cattle and poultry are abundant* and
xnay be purchafed for a trifle ; the favourite articles being blue linena,
old clothesy brafs ring?, copper wiie, large* glafs beads, tobacco*
pipes, &c. The fi/h are numoruus atid ixcellent» and turtle is taken on
l}eer Ifl;nd. The foil i$ a rich black mould, fown with rice or maize
in Prcepibcr or January ; the dry Icafon lading from April till Odlober*

f Wbitp'i Jourial uf • Vojngc ftom M«<Jrs', Ic, leo*. itq.

There

7^6

THE EASTEftW COAST*.

There are many fruit trees and ttfcful plants^ particularly the fugar eane^
but no horfes^ afie8» nor bulFaJoea. The wild animaU are the tiger*
rhinoceros, antelope, hare^ rabbit* nfrild hog, ^ith guinea hens, par-
tridges, quails, wild geefe, ducks, and fome fmall fingin? birds. The
natives are Kafiters, that is paganSi of a bright black colour, tall and
ftout ; they go nearly n^ked, and are tattooed. They ate a good-
humoured and hatmlefs people, and fond of excurfions on. the river;
Xiike the reft of Africa, the country is not populous; and Mr. White
fuppofes that thfc inhabitants arotind this large bay may be from fix to
ten thoufandi

The mod civilized and pov^erful kingdom feems to be that of Moca-
ranga, abfurdly called Monomotapa. The foil of this country is fai j
to be fertile, though the plains be expofed to great heat ; while the
mountains called Lupatan or the Spine of the World, form a great ehaiti
ftretching from K. to S. covered with perpetual fnow^ The people are
almoft naked, and, like thofe of the weilern coail, fuperftitioufly afraid
of magical charlss. According to the doubtful accounts of this coun-
try, the king on days of ceremony, wears a little fpade hanging by
hik fide as an emblem of cultivation* The children of the great ate re-
tained at court as hoftages t and the king fends annually an officer toi
the provinces i when the people teftify their fidelity by extinguiihing
their fires, and kindling others from the officer's torch. The emptror'ii
cuard is faid to confift of women lightly afmed. The PortugUefe have
here two fortreifes, and another (Tation near the mountains of Fura^
ivhich are faid to abound in gold. It is to be regretted that they da
rot pubhfh accounts of their African fettlements, which would be ex-
tremely interefting in the obfcure geography of that continent ; but
they are of all nations the tnoli ilUtetate, and the moft determined ene*
mies of their own celebrity.

The Moors, or Arabs, are eRabli(hed in confidefable numbers on the
coafts of Ajau and Zanguebar, and feem to have invented the term of
Kafraria, tor in the Arabic Ka/rt fignifies an unbeliever ; whence the
appellation, as being wholly vague and uncertain, (hould be difmified
from geo^phy.

The kmgdom of Mozambique or Mozambico, is confidered as fubjeft
to the Portuguefe, who had a confiderable town of the fame name,
fituated in an ifle, the governor being deuendent on the viceroy of Goa.
Zanguebar is faid to be a marfliy and unhealthy country, but abundant
ia elephants: it is chiefly inhabited by the Mocuas, partly Pagans,
partly Mahometans. The little kingdom of Quiloa is alfo dependent on
the Portuguefe, with that of Mombaza, from which they were expelled
in 1 63 1, but regained their pofleffions in 1729. Melinoa, a Mahome*
tan ftate, is alfo partly dependent on the Portuguefe, who have a for*
trefs in tjie city* and feveral churches. The coaft of Ajan is chiefly
Mahometan, and carries on a confiderable trade in ivory, ambergris, and
gold. Brava, a little ariftocracy, pays tribute to the Portuguefe*
wrho have not been able to encroach on Magadaflto, or on the kingdom
of Add* which laft was dependent on Abyffinia, and is faid to be a
fertile country. This /late was founded by a Mahometan prince at the
beginning of the fixteenth century, the capital being Auzagurel, ttand*
ing on an eminence near the liver Awa(h, which comes from Abyffinia :
•ad Zeila* on the Arabian gulf, is a confiderable port.

THE

.' ( 7«f > ' , ^l

THE ISLE OF MADAGASCAR*

THIS noble ifland of about 840 G. miles in length, by about 22*
of medial breatdth, being efteeraed one of the largeft in the world,
though feeminglv exceeded by Papua, and ftill more by New Holland^
if the latter mult be claffed among illands. It feems to have been un-*
known to the ancients, for Ptolemy's geography of eaftern Africa
appears to terminate witli the ifie of Pemba. The firft certain mention
of Madagafcar is by Marco Polo, in the thirteenth century, who de-
fcribes it by its preient name, having received his knowledge from the
Arabs*. Among other fingularities, he mentions that large bird which
is called Rue by the Arabs, and by the moderns the condor. It would
feem that the Mahometan religion had made fome progrefs : but the
difcoveries of the Arabs in Afia and Africa form an important objeft in
geography, which defcrves to be invelUgated by fome writer eminently
verfed m oriental lore.

This ifland appears to have efcaped the notice of Gama, who coafted
along the African (hore; and is laid to have been difcovered in 1506,
by Lorenzo Almida, whence perhaps it is called the ifte of St. Law-
rence. The French navigators in the reiapi of Henry IV. called it Iflc
Dauphin; and the latter ingenious people naving repeatedly fettled here,.
it tiecomes perfpicuous from the accounts of their writers, while the
Portuguefe iettlements remain in comparative darknefs. Rochon f in-
form» us that this ifland may contain about two hundred millions of
acres of excellent land, watered by rivers and rivulets, from a long
chain of mountains pafliag in the dire6liun of the ifland, and feparating
the eaftern from the weitern coaft, but approaching nearer to the for-
mer. The two higheft mountains are Vigagora in the north and Botilt-
meni in the S. The fcenery is ftrikingly grand and pifturefque, diver-
iiiied with precipices, catarads, and immenle foreils. The flax, fronv
the defcription, leems to approach that of New Zealand ; other pro« .
duAs are, fugar canes, cocoa nuts, bananas, tobacco, indigo, pepper*

fum lacca, benzoin, amber, ambergris, &c., and the variety ot vatua-
le plants is prodigious. Cattle, buffaloes and flieep abound. There
are no lions, tigers, elephants, nor horfes. Many of the moft valuable
minerals occur, among witich are beds of pure rock cryftal, often ui'ed
for optical purpofes, and crroneoufly -flyled Brazil pebble |, and it is
faid three kinds of gold ore, witit topazes, fapphires, emeralds, and
fpotted jafpers, commonly called blood (loiies. The natives are rather
above the middle ilature, and are of various origins; fome being ne«
groei, others tawny or copper coloured ; but the complexion of th«
greater part is olive, and it would feem that the Arabs^ in very early
times, penetrated very far into Africa. The French fettlement of Fort
psunhin is in the S. E. extremity of the ifland, a:id the French i^'n
chiefly acquainted with the fouthern part. Almoft all the villages are
built upon eminences, and furroundcd by two rows of ilrong palifades
m'ithin wbich there is a parapet of earth, four feet in height ; and iont^«'
times there is a ditch, ten feet in breadth and fm in depth. Their chieft
are only known by their red caps, worn by the common Moors, and of
which there is a noted manufadure at Tunis. Their authority is incon-

• Lilt. lii. cap. 89. t Voyage to Madagafrar, 1793, Sro*

t It ii quarried in hm^t Mocjn near the bay of Atitungil, and aUu iu the iLOuntsioi of
^iJufl'/'TI""" M the uofUteru part of tUe Ule. Kochon, f.<H7.

9 fiderable*

I i

76S

MADAGASCAR,

fiderable, vet thejr are fomettmes regarded as proprietors of tlie land, ani
receive a fmaU quit rent. Writing is not unknown, and there are fome
Biftorical books in their native tongues ; but their learned men, whom
they call omhiafesy ufe only the Arabic charaaers. In the province <J
Matatan are many magicians, greatly dreaded by the ignorant natives.
The paper is made of papyrus, which the Madagafles call fanga.fanga ;
and the ink is the decoftion of a certain bark. The whole iflani is faid
to have been conquered by the Arabs about three hundred years ago :
but their firft fettlements here and in fouthern Africa may be nearly as
ancient as thofe in Abyifinia, and of Mahometanifm there are only faint
traces. From the account of Rochon the traditions of many tribes point
to a very early Arabian origin. The nobles are ftyled ^oandrians ; and
the Anacandri are defcended from thofe an4 black women. The native
blacks are clafled as defcendants of the ancient chiefs^ and preferve their
right of killing animals, ufurped in other cafes by the Roandrians, who
regard the profefllon of a butcher as the moil honourable. The next
dafs cannot kill animals, but have fome privileges unknown to the Ont-
zoa, or third cad. The Oiideves, or Iq^ men, are flaves by extradion.
They fuppofe that feven women, originally created, were the mothers of
the dii&rent cafts ; and there is a famt but lingular rcfemblance of Hin-
doo traditions. Poligamy feems confined to the chiefs ; the women are
lively and cheerful, and form the chief delight of their hufbands. The
achievements of the French in Madagafcar have been detailed by many
of their writers, from Flacourt to Rochon. The mod lingular perhaps
is that of the Polifh adventurer Benyowiky, who, pretending to cftablifh
. an independent power among the natives, was attacked by a detachment
fent from the iHe of France, and (lain on the 23d of May 1786 *. Few
countries in the world are more defei ving to be the feats of a powerful
independent monarchy.

The knowledge that we have of the plants of Madagafcar is chiefly
derived from a few French authurs ; of thefe Flacourt is the principal,
having given a lift of three or four hundred. Unfortunately however
he mentions only their native names, and defcribes them by fancied refem*
lilances in their form or medical properties to thofe of Europe, Hence
the greater part are wholly unintelligible, nor is it without fome hefita*
tion that we give the few following i^mnasan fpecies, as probably included
in the catalogue of the above mentioned author.

Of efculent plants there are the rice, banana, yam, nymphc lotos, feve<
ral kinds of dotichos or kidney bean, gourds and water melons, and cocoa
nuts. The fruits aiv, pine apples, tamarinds, oranges, and pomegranates.
The fpices and other condiments are common, and betel pepper, ginger,
turmeric, cinnamon, and fugar. The Indian fig grows here, asaUo docs
the ebony, the bamboo, the cotton, and indigo.

A few Madagafcar plants have been obtained of late rears, of which
the only fpecies intereiling to the general reader are the Mauritanian
mulberry with green fruit, and tlic gummiphora Madagafcarienfis«
whofe juice concretes into an elaftic gum cxaaly fimilfir to the caout*
choQc of Cayenne.

* See hU Memoin, Londbn, I7!)0, two vols. 4tn. v. ii. p. 93, Sec., and RoclionS
Msttagsfrar, p. SJi). Tiie laft author, p. 104, givns cuitoui account of the Kimtw, a
nation of dwsrft, living troidft iMccvOible ro«k*.

THB

( 7^9 )

*.-:•

THE SMALLER AFRICAN ISLANDS.

Pemha •^Comoro.'-' Mauritius and 3ouriron.^^Kerguelen*s LanJ.--Sf,-
HeUna^-^jifcenfion.-^Cape Verd Iflands.— Canaries.— 'Madeira, '

THESE fiiall be traced from the eaftern coaft towards the weft.
Thofe in the Red Sea are too minute for general geography: and
theifle of Socotra has already been defcribed under Arabia, to which it
i>elong6. The iflands of Pemba, Zanzibar, and Monfia, are oppofite to
the coaft of Zanguebar. Pemba is faid to be about loo miles in circum-
ference, governed by a kinjr, who pays tribute to Portugal ; to which
power the two others are alfo faid to be fubfervient. At a confiderable
diftance to the eaft are the ifles of Mahc and Almiranti, interfperfed with
many rocks, and of fmall account.

The iilands of Comoro are four in number, of confiderable fize, parti-
cularly Angazzia, or the greater Comoro. That of Anzoan has a con-
venient harbour, fometimes vifited by {hips paifing to India. Tliefe iflcs
are governed by Pagan or Mahometan chieftains, tributary to the Portu-
gue^ ; and are reported to be very fertile in rice, oranges, lemons, fugar,
'Cocoa,and ginger; the natives carrying on forae trade with the Portuguefe
of Mozambico. The domeftic animals refemble the European.

To the eaft of Madagafcar are the iflands of Mauritius or France, and
Bourbon, French fettlcments, well known in the commercial world *m
The ifle of France has a tolerable port, the centre of the oriental force
and commerce of the French. The ifle of Bourbon, colonized in 16549
is about fifty leagues in circumference, of a circular form, rifing to high
mountains in the centre ; and there is a noted volcano, difficult of accefs^
at the fummit of a mountain a league from the fea : thie eruptions are
frequent and continual. Mauritius, or the ifle c f France, was firft pof-
fefied by the Dutch, who abandoned it in 17 12, and the French fettle-
ment began to acquire fome liability under Bourdonnais in 1 734. There
are two crops every year of wheat and Indian corn, but manioc was the
food of the negroes. The ifle of Bourbon produces fugar canes ; and in
both the cattle are numerous. In 1766 M. roivre, author of the Voyage
of a Philofopher, was governor of thefe ifles, and the advantages of ap-
pointing men of fcience to fuch ftations was evident from <»iis introdu£lioa
of the bread-fruit tree, and alfo of the nutmeg and cinnamon.

Far to the fouth lies Kerguelen's Land, fo called from a recent French.
navigator, but by Captain Cook the Ifle of Defolation. This region
muft be clafTed among the African iflands, as it approaches nearer to that
continent than to AuJtralafia, which may however claim the fmall iflands
of Amfterdam and St. Paul, only frequented on account of the feal
fifliery. Kerguelen's Land is defcribed and delineated in the lad voyage
of Cook, to which the curious reader is referred. In wildnefs, and
iron-bound fterility, it rivals New Georgia, and the fouthcrn Thulc.
Proceeding towards the weit are^feveral other defert iflands, furround-
ed wi(h tlte floating ice of the antar£lic ocean, and chiefly difcovcrcd
by Marion in 1772. That of Trillan da Cunha is unknown co recent
accounts.

The fouth is here the region of cold and defolation, and on proceed-

* A piolix hiftorv of Mauritius wu pubtiihed in IBOI, by Charlci Grvit, Vifcuuut d*
V*llXi i'ht ifle uf Uuurbun bu been latrlv called R»\inyan.

$ D iog

<i:^- ?8

770

SMALLER AFRICAN ISLANDS.

ing towards the north the fcene improves. St. Helena is a beautiful
iilandy pofleiTed by about three hundred Englifli families, the governor
refiding in a fort with a fmall garrifon. There is a village, with a
church, in Chapel valley. The planters are occupied with their cattle*
bogs, and poultry; but when Eaft India (hips arrive each houfe becomes
a little tavern. This interefting ifle was difcovered by the Portuguefe«
who (locked it with animals and fruit trees ; but there was no fettlement
when the Englifh took poiTeffion about the year 1600. There is only
one harbour, which is difRcuIt of accefs. The ifle of Afceniion, be-
tween Africa and Brazil, was difcovered in 1508 ; and has an excellent
harbour, frequented by homeward-bound fliips, who here find turtle and
fea-fowl. This iflan^ is of coniiderable fize, but mountainous, and the
foil a bairen fand.

On approaching the African (hore to the north of Congo, and paff.
ing the negle£led ifle of St. Matthew, where the Portuguefe have a
fmall fettlement, firft appears the ifle of Annabon, followed by St. Tho-
mas, Prince's Ifle, and that of Fernando Po. The ifle of St. Thomas
was difcovered by the Portuguefe about 1460, and fettled by them in
defpite of the climate, which is foggy and Angularly unhealthy. But
the foil is remarkably ftrong and fertile, domeltic animals abound, and
the produce of fugar is prodigious. There is a bifliop, who is a fuifra-
gan of Lifl)on. The town of Pavoacan, is on the eaftern fide of the
ifland. Prince's Ifland is alfo fertile, with a good harbour, and a town
of about two hundred houfes on the northern fliore ; it is inhabited by
about forty Portuguefe and 3000 negro flaves. Fernando Po feems
deftitute of any good harbour, and abandoned to the goats and feals ;
but the Spaniards retain the nominal pofleflion.

Several other fmall iflcs arifc on the African fliore^ ; and it is pro-
bable that in ancient periods thefe were ilill more numerous, but the
fand, which lias blocked up many of the rivers, mud have united the
iflands, particularly at their mouths, with the continent. The firil dif-
tinguilhed group in this quarter is that oppofite to Cape Verd, whence
it has received its name. Thefe ifles were difcovered by the Portuguefe
in 1446. They are ten in number, the two largeil being that of St.
Jago in the S. £. and St. Anthony in the N. W. The air is hot and
unhealthy, and moil of the ifles itony and barren ; the chief trade be-
ing in fait, anjl goat fliins. Some produce rice, maize, bananas, le-
mons, oranges, citrons, with cotton, and fugar canes ; and there is abun-
dance of poultry. Ribira, the chief town and bifliopric, is in St. Jago,

Far to the north the Canary Iflands, or Fortunate Iflands of the
ancients, form an iitterelling range from welt to eaft. They were con-
quered by the French in 1402, under the celebrated Jean de Bethen-
court, afterwards ilyled king of the Canariesj*. The ifle ttri£tly called
Canary is fmaller than Fueria Ventura and Tenerif. The latter is the
mod remarkable, deriving its name, according to Glas, from tituer, a
mountain, and </*, white. In the recent aflronomical voyage of Verdun
de la Crenne there is an accurate account of the Peak of Tenerif,
which was found 1 742 toifes above the level of the fea, or about 5000
feet lower than Mont Blanc. It is fald to be vifible at the diftance of

* Among tliefe may lie mrniioDed tlic Biflasos, mid the little ifle of Goret, a f«ttle-
mfiit Ihclttred by tb«f Ik)KI pruiniiiencf^ of C»j>e Verd.

■f- Hill ire de la ])reniiere Dciouvt-rte et Coiiqufile des C'anario>< I'wis |630| 9vO.
§!:« j|i£a CiIm'* UtAury of the Cwisry iikiuU) London, 1764, 4V),

'l^

tightf

SMALLER AFRICAN ISLANDS.

771

eighty leagues *, This celebrated mountain cannot be afcended, on ac*
count of the fnows, except from the middle of July to the end of Au-
guft. Firil occur pumices^ interlperfed with obfid'ian of beautiful and
various colours, followed by broken lava. The fummit refembles a
cone placed on a table, or rather fmall bafe, and can only be afcended
by a zig-zag path on the fouth. The cold is extreme ; the nails be-
come black, and the hands and feet fwell. In the middle of the fummit
is a deep reverfed cone, called the cauldron, about fifty fatlioms in dia-
meter, and bordered with hideous calcined rocks, moltly red or white*
the perpendicular depth being about 150 feet : at the bottom are per-
ceived reddilh fpots, upon a kind of white earth like plafter, and min-
ified with fulphur. Around are many little mouths from one to four
inches in diameter, which ait fliort intervdls refpire, as it were, a thick
hot fetid fmoke. The largeft hole, about eight inches in diameter, is
within the crater, exhaling with a found, like the bellowing of a bull,
and the fmoke is fo hot as inftantly to burn the hair of the hand. Yet
the rocks immediately adjoining are covered with wet mofs, like thofe
by the fide of a cafcade.

The ancient inhabitants of the Canaries were called Guanches by the
Spaniards, and were flrangers to the ufe of iron, their weapons and in-
ftruments being of what they called taiona, or black obfidian. The
chief trees are wild olives, cyprefles, laurels, and pines of two kinds.
It was reported by Spaniih writers that there was a tree in the ifle of
Ferro which gathered the vapours, fo that the inhabitants were thus
fupplied with water dropping from the leaves. The product of thefe
iOands is wheat, barky, and oats ; and the excellent Canary wine is
chiefly from Tenerif and Palma, which alfo yield confiderable quan-
tities of fugar ; while Gomera is noted for filk ; and the tree yielding
the gum called dragon's blood is not uncommon f . They have more
European domeftic animals. The capital of the feven inhabited iflands
is the town of Palma, in the ifle of Canary ; but Tenerif is the mod

Eopulous. The inhabitants are computed at 140,000; of whom 64,000
elong to Tenerif, in which ifle the governor ufually refides, though
the royal audience, of which he is prefident, be eftabUfhed at the ca-
pital of Canary. There is confiderable internal trade with Tenerif;
and the wine is chiefly exported by the Englifli. Filtering ftones,
from the ifle of Canary, and from Fuerta Ventura, alfu«form an article
of traffic.

The ifland of Madeira is chiefly remarkable for excellent wines, be-
ing about 18 leagues in length by 7 in breadth %. The capital, Fun*
chal, the refidence of the governor and bifliop, is in a fertile vale, on
the fouth fide of the ifle, a handfome town, with about 11,000 inha-
bitants, there being about 64,00^ in the whole ifland. The chief trade
is with the Engliih, who export about ten or twelve thoufand pipes of
wine annually ; the remainder, about feven thoufand, being conlumed
in the country. The richeft merchants are Englifh or Iriih catholics.
The interior confifts of high mountains, vifible at the diftance of twenty
leagues. To the N. E. is the fmall ifle of Porto Santo, only remark-
able in the hiftory of Portuguefe difcovery. It is however a fertile
little ifle, with a good harbour fometimes vifited by Eaft India
/hips.

• Tome i. p. 131 1 ruppofing tht height to b« 1743 toifin, the frnnmlt might be vlfibl*
•t fet, at the diiUncc oS Hi leaguei.

fib. lOS, I lb. I.»8.

3D a

INTZRIO^

r' li"

( 772 )

' INTERIOR PARTS.

Ov the interior parts of Africa, Darfur alone may be faid to be dif-
tinAly ktiown ; while concerning the remainder there are only vague
reportb. Mr. Browne* to whofe independent love of fcience we are
indebted for the firft account of Darfur, informs us, that Cobb^, the
capital of this country, is a pleafant little town, full of trees of different
kinds ; and, during the rainy feafon, the ground on which it ftandt
is furrounded by a torrent. The inhabitants are almoll all merchants
and foreigners. The other more noted towns of the kingdom are Sweini,
Kurma, Cubcabta, Ril, Cours, Shoba, Gidid, Gellc ; for a defcrip-
tion of which the reader may confult the original work. The merchants
are chiefly from Upper Egypt, Tunis, and Tripoli.

The rains fall in Darfur from the middle oi June till the middle of
September ; and the cares of agriculture begin with the lains *. The
goats are more numerous than the fheep, woiofe wool refembles hair.
Cows are abundant, but the milk not very palatable ; camels are nu-
merous. The lion, the leopard, the hyena, wolf, jackall, and wild
buffalo, are too familiarly known ; but the tiger is not mentioned ; and
Mr. Browne has expreffed his opinion, as already ftated, that this terri-
ble animal is not a native of Africa. To thefe may be added the ele-
phant, the rhinoceros, the giraf, the hippopotamus, and the crocodile.
Perhaps the rhinoceros with one horn, called by the Arabs Abukurn,
or the fatlier of the horn, may have given rife to the fable, if fuch it
be, of the unicorn. The antelope and oftrich arc alfo common. For the.
other animals Mr. Browne's very intelligent work may be confulted.
The copper brought from the mines in the fouth is of excellent quality,
and iron is abundant ; but the little gold is brought from the countries
in the E. and W. Among the trees are the tamarind, or fruit of India,
oriental plane, fycamore of Egypt, and others enumerated in the ori-
ginal work.

The government is regal and hereditary ; yet a battle often decides
the fuccefGon. The army cannot exceed two thoufand men, whenct
our author concludes that the population may be about two hundred
thoufand fouls. AUowingthe jnftnefsof this calculation, in Abyfllnia,
where the royal army amounts to twenty thoufand, the population might
be two millions. The manners of the people of Darfur, in regard to the
intercourfe of the fexes, are diffolute in a fupreme degree, and a modeft
woman would be regarded as a natural curiofity.

The Journey of Horncmann from Cairo to Fezzan contains little re-
markable. Tlie petrified wood, found in the defert, fometimes prefents
entire trunks of trees more than twelve feet in circumference, fometimes
only branches and twigs, and pieces of bark, particularly that of the
oak. This (ingular circumftancc would feem to (hew that the country
was formerly inhabitable, till overwhelmed with fand from the decom*
pofition of the rocks ; but our author fuppofes that th^y prcfent markaf
of a great inundation, becaufe they are intermingled with a vaft quan-
tity of oyiler (hells, fait, and lakes of fait water. The hiftory of the
flobe is inexplicable. Homemann fays, that the cultivated part of
ezzan may tie thi'ee huhdred B. miles N. to S., and two hundred W.
to £., comprifmg, however, a mountainous region on the E. and fome
deferts on the fouth and w^cft, but he computes the population at ooly
70,000 fouls. . ,

• Travel*, p. 234. .

- Ont

?, 1*. V . _ t . .'

INTERIOR PARTS.

773

On« of the moft remarkable novelties to be found in the journey of
Hornemann, is that the habitable parts of the wide defert of Zaam
ate occupied by the Tibbos on the £. of Fezzan, and the Tauriks on
theW. •

n..

DISCOVERIES AND CONJECTURES CONCERNING ,
THE CENTRAL PARTS OF AFRICA,

HAVING completed this arduous circumnavigation of the globe, and
arrived on the confines of Europe, whence the defcription firft pro-
ceeded, one topic yet remains, wliich has confiderably iiiterellcd public
curiofity. The interior parts of Africa prefent many geographical defi-
ciences, both in the northern and fouthern parts of that wide continent.
The patronage of the African Society has already contributed greatly to
the increafe of our knowledge, not only by coUefting recent oriental intel-
ligence, but by exciting various travellers, particularly Mr. Park, to
the accomplifhment of this grand defign ; and though thefe laudable
efforts have not been attended with all the effeft that might have been
wi(hed, yet the preciiion of modern knowledge begins to dawn ; and it
is to be hoped that the travels of Mr. Hornemann will importantly tend
to remove the remaining defefts. The materials hitherto prefented have
been ufed with care by that celebrated geographer Major Rennell, whofe
fuccefficin of maps of the northern part of Africa, from 1790 to 1800,
form of themfelves curious fpecimens of the uncertainty of the fubjeft, of
the variations in the author's ideas, and of the progrefs of African
geography.

The travels of Mr. Browne, merely to fatisfy his own curiofity, and
bis fondnefs for oriental manners, have alfo contributed moit eflcntially
to our knowledge of northera Africa, not only by the geography of Dar-
fur and Kordofan, but by afcertaining the origin and progrefs of the Bahr
el Abiad, or real Nile ; and by difciofing feveral circumitances towards
the well, particularly a large river riling in the mountains of Kumri, tind
proceeding N. W., which feems to be the Gir of Ptolemy, and the Nile
of the negroes of Edrifi. It needs fcarcely be added that as the fource
of the Nile, and the river running N. W., are linking features of PtOj
lemy's map, there is reafon to infer that his intelligence deferves in other
refpei^s great credit.

All the recent information however, afllfted by that of Ptolemy, will
only throw a faint light on the northern half of this wide continent, a«
far as the central ridge of Kong, continued in a N. W. and S. E. direc-
tion acrofs to the mountains of Kumri, and thofe on the fouth of Abyf-
finia, perhaps extending to Ajan on the eaftern (hore. The interior of
the fouthern half of this great continent will remain a theme equally in-
terefting, and Hill lefs known. In proceeding firft to give fome idea
of the difcoveries and conje6lure« concerning tlie northern half, it will
be proper to begin with ai'certaining where the light of difcovery ter-
minates.

From the travels of Mr. Park, and the map conftrnfted by Rennell,
it appears that three great rivers, the.Gambia, Senegal, and Joliba or
Nigir, life from a chain of lofty mountains, N. lat. 11 ' ; and a^ Browne
lays down the mountains of Kumri, which gives fource to the Nile and

3 D 3 Bah»

774 DISCOVERIES AND CONJECTURES CONCERNING

Bahr Kulla, in N. lat. 7% it feems fufficiently evident that this grand
chain proceeds acrofs the continent, efpecially as it was obferved by Mr.
park as far as he jpenetrated. This enterprizing and ingenious traveller
purfued the courfe of the Joliba from long, 5° 30' W. of Greenwich to
Silla, long. 1° 30'. the utnnoft extent of his expedition. Not to mention
curious and interefling information concerning the manners and prefent
ilate of the countries through which he pafled, we are indebted to Mr.
Park for the Moorifh kingdom of Ludamar, where he was detained at
Benowm, and for another called Beeroo, the capital of which is Walet*
while to the £. is the celebrated kingdom of Tonibu£too. To the fonth
ot thefe are the negro kingdoms of Kaarta and Bambarra, the capital o^
the laft being Sego ; beyond which, about 70 g. miles to the N. E., is
Silla. The chief geographical objeds in Mr. Park's route are the river
Joliba, and the town of Sego. The word Joliba fignifies the Great
Water ; and whon this river was firft defcribed by our traveller, it was
flowing flowly to the eailward, and glittering to the morning fun, with
an expanfe as abroad as the Thames at Weftminfter*. He foon after
arrived at Sego, the capital of Bambarra, which confifts of fourdivi-
iions, furrounded with high mud walls, two on the north fide of the
liver, and two on the fouthem. The houfes are in a fquare form, with
flat roofs ; they are of clay ; fome have two ftories, many are white
vra(hed. Several mofques alfo appear, yet the ftreets are narrow, wheel
carriages being unknown. The inhabitants are computed at 50,000,

but fuch calculations are ufually exaggerated. The king refides

" ' " in canoeo, confiding
Around is a flendcr

on the fouthern fhore ; and people are ferried
of two large hollowed trees joined at the ends,
cultivation.

In Ludamar Mr. Park learned, from a flieref who arrived with fait
and fome other articles from Walet, the capital of Be^roo, that Houfla
was the largeft town he had feen, Walet being larger than Tumbu£ioof.
At Silla Mr. Park coUedled intelligence from the Moorifh and negro
traders, who informed him that two days' journey to the E. is the town
oF Jenne, fituated on an IHet in the river ; beyond which, at the diftance
of two days, is the Dibbi or Dark lake, in crofling which from W. to
£. the canoes are faid to lofe light of land for an entire day %» From
this lake the river ifTues in feveral flreams, terminating in two large
branches, which join at Kabra, ope day's journey S. of Tombudoo,
and the port of that city or town. At the didance of eleven days
from Kabra, the river pafTcs to the foiithward of HoufTa, which is two
"days* journey dillant from the .loliba. *• Of the farther progrefs of thi?
great river and its final exit, all the natives feem to be entirely igno.
rant §.*' To the eaftwatd of Houfla is the kingdom of Kaflina. The
prefent king of Tombuftoo is named Abu Abrahima, and is laid to be
rich, his wives and concubines being clothed in lilk« The kingdom
of Honffa is of fuperior confcquence. To the S. of the Nigir were
inentioned the kingdoms, or rather didridls of Gotto ; to the W.
of which are Bacdoo and Maniana, the inhabitants of the laft being re*
ported cannibals. So far Mr. Park's intelligence in the weft, which
terminates with Houfla, about E. long, from Greenwich 4",

Qn the eaftern fide Mr. Browne's intelligence extends to long. 17" ;
in that there is a deficiency of thirteen degrees, or 780 g. mijee ; but
f his fpace unfortunately comprifes the moll intercfting portion of northern
Africa, and efpecially the termination of the N'gir : and to the N. W.

t v. aev 8vo.

t P. i»Q.

; P. 317.

$ P. ai9.

THE CENTRAL PARTS OF AFRICA.

775

of Darfar the deficiency becomes more extenfive. To the $. of Cobb^,
at the diftance of twenty three days, are noted copper mines ; beyond
which, at the diftance of (even days and a half, is the Bahr el Abiad.
Mr. Browne's map is unfortunately laid down with little care, and the
river is placed too near the mines. To the W. is the river of KuUa,
the banks of which, according to Mr. Browne's information, abound
with pimento trees, and the ferry-boats are partly managed by poles,
partly by a double oar *. The trees are fo vigorous, from the quantity
of water and deep clay, that canoes are hollowed fo large as to contain
ten perfons. The natives of Kulk are partly negroes, and partly of a
red or copper colour ; and the country is chiefly frequented by Jelabs
or traders from Bergoo and . Fur, in order to procure flaves. On the
W. of Bornou Mr. Browne heard of Afnou, which is a negroe word
for Soudan or Nigritia in general, but is particularized as a country
abundant in filver t and there is a remote part of the Pagan country
called Gnum>gnum, where the people eat their captives taken in war ;
but this can ^arcely be the Maniana of Park^ and it is probable tha(
the mountaineers in the S. retain, as ufual, the moft ancient and
ferocious manners.

Thus far the rays of modern intelligence throw a faint light upoa
northern Africa ; and beyond, all is theory and conje£lure. But
amidft this uncertainty there are two fources of information which de-
ferve preference till more precife knowledge can be obtained. Thefe
are Ptolemy, who wrote in Egypt before the negroes were envenomed
with Mahometan fanaticifm, and after the Roman arms had penetrated
to the Nigir ; and the Arabian authors, who by the progrefs of Ma-
hometanifm, had the beft intelligence concerning this continent. Yet
upon the whole Ptolemy's information and exaflnefs will obtain a deci*
ded preference over the fabulous turn and grofs inaccuracies of the
Arabian geographers.

The moft remarkable error, or inaccuracy, in Ptolemy's map is that he
certainly conceives the Nigir to rife in the mountains of Thala ; or,
what amounts to the fame, he fuppofes that the river terminated in a
lake in the W. which he calls Nigritis Palus ; whence it was clearly the
opinion of this great geographer that the Nigir ran from E. to W. in
which he feems to have been milled by confounding it with the Gir. The
laft river he clearly deduces from mountains in the S. E. fo as to cor«
refpond with the Bahr Kulla, though he be a (Iranger to its remote
iburce. This river is another grand feature of Ptolemy's defcription,
which has efcaped modem geographers, though D'Anville, 1749, bad
ioferted it with his ufual knowledge and mduilry. It is reprefented as
receiving two tributary ftreams from two lakes ; and amon^ other cities
on its banks is a metropolis called Gira ; as upon the Nigir there ia
another ftyled the Nigira.

It has already been obferved that this geographer has omitted the
Zaara or Great Defert, and that the interior part of his map is laid
down from land routes, while the weftern coaft is from maritime expe-
ditions* On the fouth his latitudes are equally erroneous, as he places
the fources of the Nile, and the mountains of the moon, in S. lat. 13%
inftead of N. lat. 6 'or y*^; an error of about 20 degrees, or i2oog.
miles !

Having thus briefly examined the leading points of Ptolemy's African
geography, that ot the Arabs \»iU not be found deferving of equal

! ^

• Browne, p. 308,

attentiosa

776 DISCOVERIES AND CONJECTURES CONCERNING

attention. The moft celebrated is Edriii, who wrote in Sicily in the
twelfth century, but from his minute attention to eaftern Africa he was
formerly ftyled the Nubian geographer. By fome ftrange inadvertence
the towns mentioned by this author, who wrote fix centuries and a
half ago, have been inferted in modern maps, while perhaps there is not
one of tliem in exiftence. Setting this afide, it will appear, from an
accurate examination of Edrifi, that while his Nile of the Negroes,
which he fays runs to the W., has been miftaken for the Nigir, he
really knew nothing of that river ; and his Nile of the Negroes is the
Gir of Ptolemy, terminating in an inland lake, in which was the ifland
of Uhl, one day's fail from the mouth of the river ; and in which
ifland another Arabian geographer places the capital city of Soudan.
Beyond this lake and ifland Edrifl appeam to have bad no knowledge of
central Africa.

The moft curious and important difcoveries which remain are probably
the rJver Gir, and the lakes, marfhes, or defert*, which receive that
river and the Nigir ; the latter being an objeA of great fingularity,
equally unknown in the time of Ptolemy and at the prefent day. Per-
liaps in a level plain thefe large livers fend off various brandies,
gradually loil in the fandf ; but Ptolemy and the Arabs indicate a great
cential lake, which could fcarcely fo long have efcaped more precife
notice, except we conceive that the northern part is furrounded with
deferts, and the fouthern with lofty and inacceflible mountains, covered
ivith forefts and full of ferocious animals, fu that the traders only
pafling the northern part and Ifle of Ulil, are complete ftrangers to its
fouthern extremity.

As in Afia the chief obftacles to difcovery have not been the fandy
dclerts of Cobi or Shamo, but the inacceflible mountains of Tibet ; fo
in Africa it would appear that the impediments muil arife from high
mountains, and not from fandy deferts, fuch as are familiarly pafled by
caravans in every dire6^ion ; it is alfo probable that thefe mountains are
covered with thick forefts, and the thorny underwood frequent in Africa,
fometimes inhabited by aboriginal tribes of the greatcft cruelty and
ferocity, and at others fwarming with lions, tigers, and panthers. It
would have been moft beneficial to the natives if, as in Afia and Europe,
viftorious armies had eftabliflied wide empires j and, at the cxpcnce of
temporary deilruftion, had fecured lafting intercourfe and general
advantages.

The continual wars between petty tribes fecm alfo to confpirc with a
riilge of impafl'abie mountains, called Lupata, or the Some of the
world, to prevent difcoveries in the interior of fouthern Africa, where
the map of D'Anville, half a century a^ro, prefentt every thing that it
]cnown with any degree of certainty at the prefent day. By a Angular
fatality Africa, the leaft known of all the continents, has become the
))Ortion of the Portuguefe, the moft ignorant of all the European
nations. Tn the hands even of the Rufliani confiderab'e light would
haire been diftnfed, while the Portuguefe darknefs renders all furrounding
obJL^ls as vague and obfcure as if ttiey belonged to the twelfth century.
£clidcs the chain of mountains pervading thii part of Africa from N>
to S. or perhaps two chains at a confidcrabte diftance, fupporting an
»jpl:i',(I terrace in the centre, whence there are no rivers ot prodigious
fizens in fonth America, the chief feature yet known feems to be a lake
of great extent, called Maravi, laid down by D'Anville as more than
^^50 B. mi!es in It^igth, but of inadequate breadth. This lake may
perhaps, like that of Baikal, lie at the foot of the tablc'land on ono

1 fiJ<?#

THE CENTRAL PARTS OF AFRICA.

777

fide, as that of Aquilunda, of far fmaller extent, does on the other.
The rivers of Barbela in Congo, and Zambezi in Mocaranga, are alfo
grand features ; which feem to be delineated by D'Anville in his general
map of Africa, and his particular maps of Congo, Angola, and Mo-
caranga, I73i» with as much care andprecifionas his Portuguefematerials
ivould admit. The navigation of the Zambezi is interrupted, for about
twenty leagues, by catarafts or violent rapids, about tne diftance of
140 leagues from the fea. To the north are, or were, the Mumbos,
a race of cannibals, who with the Zimbas and Jagas, favages of equal
cruelty, have defolated a great part of fouthern Afrida, Should the
Portuguefe retain their poflcffions, it is likely that the darknefs may be
the fame in the year 2002 as it is in 1 802, when it is little better than it
was in 1602, fome accounts having been then puMiihed by Lopez and
Philip Pigafetta. It is to be regretted that in our ftrift alliance with
Portugal we do not inftigate that government to ufe fome means to im-
prove the geography of fouthern Africa : and La Cruz's map of South
America mould operate as a (limulua and example. It is probable that
the country is as fertile in the precious metals as the other continent,
and it js wholly unaccountable, and a truly Angular deftiny, that America
ihould be filled with European colonies, while Africa is negle6ted.
Small colonies on the fhores could effedl nothing in fuch a country,
and the wrongs of Africa can only be terminated by a powerful
European colony, an cnterprize worthy of any great European nation,
a fcene of new and vaft ambition, and among the few warfares which
would eifentially contribute to the eventual interefts of humanity, and
raife a degradea continent to its due rank in the civilized world.

Meanwhile it is more confonant with the tenor and purpofc of the
prefcnt work to exprefs a humbler wifh, tliat fpirited travellers would
explore thcfe regions, as the fame of fcience is fuperior to that of arms :
and if we cannot diffufe civilization, and the blcilings of liable and fub*
ordinate focicty, we may, at lead, by comparifon, learn duly to prize
their advantages.

CATA.

■. ->.

CATALOGUE OP MAPS,

AND OF

mOKS OF FOTAGES AND TRAVELS.

> *■' '

la the Maps the Letter L denotes the Large, M the Middle, S the Small,
as explained in the Preface. A complete Catalogue of Booh of Voyages
andTravels might Jill Two oSavo Volumes i but here only a few ofthi moll
ufeful and interejling are enumerated, efpecially the more modern *.

i !

Globes.

BY Adams, Gary, Bardin. Tiie laft from drawings by Mr. Arrow-
fmith, with the neweft difcoveries, are defervedly etteemed ; and the
celeftial globes are alfo executed with great care and precifion. In Cary*a
celcftial globe, l 98, the conftellations are only marked by bounding
tints, and the eye is not diftraded with the ridiculous figures of animals,
&c. Some aftronomers however, and they are the beft judges, prefer
the ancieut figures, on account of fpeedy and accurate reference f.

Planifphere.

By Arrowfmitb, 4 (beets, 1794* &c. excellent. His pamphlet called
*' A Companion to a Map of the World," explains the projeftion, and
contains fome valuable information. There are planifpheres publifhcd at
Vienna, &c. ftereographically projeded for the horizon of the place of
publication \.

Smaller Planifpheres by Fadcii, Harrifon, &c. Northern and South*
em Hemifphcres, Fadcn, j Ih. each 1802*

On Mercator's Projed'ion.
Of this Mcrcator was not, however, the author, as it was ufed lonjj
before his time. The beft on this projection is that by Arrowfmith,
1790. &c. 8 fh. That of Faden, i flj.

Europe.

Maps L. By de Bougc, Vienna, 1799, 50 half fh. middling. By
Sotzmann, in 16 fh.

• The inoft t-oitiinodiow* fonn of aranijin!; map* m a liln-ary fotmn to 1)c tlwt Intoty
ndoptrd, ol' pallittf; ihriii on cuiivui, nt\>l piutins tlnni into a cafe uliicli OaiuU trce^
like n i|imri(> voluiiir, tlit>r«* ix'iiif; lix folds in ilic flicn <>!' iar.;o alias pnpcr. '1 ho voluiuei
Lriii;; titled on ilir ItMrki miiiI om ti iiitp or pnrt lalxil rd, it iiihv liff confultril With mfo
M'iihout ih<> iroul)!'- oi' 11 h'lju- Ixniiul aitai, nr tlicrciii'ufioii ol' clitiu'lird niti-ts,

•f" III uniri-d ^cojjruphy Viin-niun may lll!l Iip confiiltpd, wiili the lirtl mid only vohimo
of Mai I, lit, tdiii. 1 7 ho, (Jvo. There i« a Cttlal<tf(Uf liai/i)nui'e <lr.i Cartrs l»y .Uilicn,
J 774, J toinrs, uvo, iiww mtlii-r aiiiitpiaK'd ; hr wa* uh'o, it is belinnl, the vender i>f
Honiaiin'ii niu|>».

J lk>iillaiigrr'i m«i» ol' tlif "twld, 1 7'io, is on tlio horirnn of a jwint 4 .%• of the liri^ht
of ihi* pole towurd* the north. In 17 74 Fatlirr (i« (iy ptihlilhixl oni* fiiullar, projit^td 011
the liori/o:. ol ^'gril«. Thffi* nrnpn frrfrnt, jitider onr |)oiiit of view, tin- four parts of the
world, wiiicb, M FlcurieO fays, iiKtiirc hut alFemblrJ undt-r ihcftuc lii;inifiihero.

;9* M. By

It ^

IM#

9 i

.^$0

CATALOGUE OF MAPS

M. By D'AnviUe, 6 fli. 1754. Arrowfmith, 4 fli. 179S.
S. Faden, &c. i (h. 1791.

£ooh. The geography of Bufching in German, or the French tranf.
lation, 1785, 14 vols. 8vo. a prolix work, but containing excellent mate*
rials. Supplemental to Bufcning's Europe are the America of Ebeling,
1797, and the Africa of Bruns, 1799; the former tedious, the laft
good. Afia was begun by Borheck 1 793, but feems incomplete. In the
French abftraft of Bufching by Berenger, Laufanne, 1776, &c. 12 vols,
8vo. tolerable accounts of the other regions are added, but the want of
jreferences renders them uhfatisfadlory *.

England. ' a

L. I'he furveys of the feveral counties, particularly Surrey and Suflexg
by Linley and Gardner, which are trigonometrical. Some of the beft
furveys are publi filed by Faden.

The grand trigonometrical furvey of England will fpeedily appear be-
fore the public, in part of EiTex ; (the map of Kent being a fpecimen of
the plates, but not of the plan.) It is reported to excel in accuracy,
abundance of pofitions, clearnefs, and beauty. The whole fheets are
filled to the edges ; and when finished will cumpofc one uniform mapf
like Caffini's map of France.

M. Smith's Atlas. Gary's Atlas of the counties. Gary's England
gnd Wales, Si 4to Hi. La Rochette's map, 12 (h. Andrews, 6 m.

S. Kitchin's map, 4 fli. Faden, &c. i (h. 1800.

The maps in Saxton's Atlas, and Speed's Theatre, may be confulted
fur tiie fake of curiofity.

Gamden's Britannia. Alkiti's England delineated. Pennant's Tours,
Campbell's Political Survey, a tedious but ufeful work. Arthur Young't
Tours. Voyage de St. Fond, &c. &c.

.T' '"

IVales. -

The maps by Evans, 9 fh. Reduced 1 fli. (North Wales). Of South
Wales there is an old bad map by Bowcn, 6 ih. Pennant's TourSi
Evans's Cambrian Itinerary, Aikiu's Journey, &c. &c.

Scotland.

L. The furveys of various counties.

M. Aindie's map, 9 (h. Dorret's map, 1 750, 4 Ih. feveral miftakes,
S. General Roy's map, very fcarce. Pennant's, &c. Ainflic's rc-^
duced. All I fli.

• ExrluHre of the oW fyfttmt of gpograplty hy Moll, Jtc. ihrrr arc in Enplini :
Bowcn's, 1747, 3 volt. (ol. maps : Muldlcton'* 1777, a voU. ful. mauo: but tl\e Mi ol
the kind is that by Fcnninp, or rtthrr Collyer, who inloriTiii ua that fennin;^ only wrote
the aflronuiuical iiitnxluiliait. The fourth edition is 177n, 9 vols. fol. with maps by
Kiti'hin. It ia, like the oihen, • dct-rnt conipllation «t' thi> nnorr antufin^ parts of f<iH>«
graphy, but is totally deficirni in difcuiTimi or information (irid^ly (;('OKr>iphiriil. Vol. I.
(■nniniiis Alia and Airica ( Vol. il. Europe and Atneiica. It is unnpreflary to mt- ntion the
fucieirive fframman, aa they an* ahfurdly lalird, of (iordon, SHinion, and (iuthiie.
Many iniiUkra of the iMtcr iDft^ be trK«d ill Collier; neither of ihcm being vcifed in geo«
|ra}jh}' ai# (cienct , ■

'StatiOi*

AND BOOKS.

7Sf'

■ Statift'ical Account, 21 vols. 8vo. Camden's Britannia^ by Gough.
Pennant's Tours. Scotland Delineated. Voyage de SJt. Fond, &c.
Volkmann's Travels in Scotland and Ireland, Leipflck» 1784, 8vo.

.!-■ - ♦ :«.

Ireland,

L. Surveys of fome counties.
M.

S. By Dr. Beaufort, 1792, 2d edit. 1797, 2 fli. Dr. Beaufort's map
reduced, 1 fh. Faden. Taylor's 1793, i fti. Faden.

Young's Tour, 2 vols. 8vo. excellent. Camden's Britannia, &c, '

France,

L. Caflini's 183 (h. begun in 1744, 70 fheets were executed before
1767 ; and the whole was not completed till very lately (about 1794).
Atlas National, 85 fh. neat, the mountains being etched, fo that the (hade
does not injure the lettering.

M. The fmaller Atlas National. Several flieets reduced from Caffini,
Faden, &c. &c.

S. On the fcale of D'Anville's Ancient Gaul, 1780, 1 fli. Faden's,
&c. 1792, 1 fh. Index fhcet to the large map of Caffini. In depart-
ments by Be lleyme, 4 fli. France Ph^tquet or a map of France, fliewing
the mountains, rivers, &c. by Buache, i fti.

Voyage dans les Departnr.ents, a declamatory work, full of the new
philofophy and fentimental hypocrify. Defcription General, Paris, 178H
folio. Voyage Pittorefaue,Pnri8, 1784, folio. Arthur Young's Tour,
(olid and excellent. Moor's View of Society in France. La Crois
Geographic.

Netherlands,

L. By Ferraris, 25 large Hi.

M. Atlas des Departments Belgiques. By Schrembl, from Ferraris*
4 fli. Frontiers of Holland from Ferraris, Faden, i fh.

S. By Crome, i fh. Reduced from lerraris, by FadeUf i fli. 1 789.

Marfliall's Journey, &c. &c.

Rujiu in Europe,

L. Maps of the feveral governments ; but thefe are in the Ruflian
chara£ter, and unfit for general ufe. The fame, recent, 9 fli. Some
governments, by TrefTcott, &c. in Latin.

Dt-y.anchi's map of the Krimea. The Krim by Klufbergcn, 4 fli.
Van Kulcn's chart of Spitzbergcn, 2 fli. &c. &c.

S. Ruffian Empire, 3 fli. Pcterfljurg, 1789. By TrefTcott and Smidt,
1776, 3 fli. Port map to Tobolflc, 2 fli. Reduced map, i fli. London.
Jkyrelof't map, 1734, a fli. curious. >

... I - ■ 'v

. * ^ * * '' . Tooke'i

'■i\

78*

CATALOGUE OF MAPS

Tooke's View of the Ruflian Empire, 1799, 3 vols. 8vo. Tooke't
Ruflia, 1781, 4. vols. 8vo. Voyage de Pallas, Paris, 8 vols 8vo, Hif-
toire des Decouvertes, &c. Laufanne, i ^84, 6 vols. Svo. Giorgi's (pr.
Ghiorghi) Defcription of all the nations in the Ruffian Empire, Peterf-
burg, 1776 to 1780, 4 vols* 4to. in German, or in FreAchA, Coxe'»
Travels, &c. ^

jiuftrtan Dominions.

■* L. There are large provincial maps of moft of the Auftrian dominie
ons, and the moft modern are generally the beft ; among the others may
fee mentioned. Atlas of Tyrol, 21 (h. Atlas of Bohemia, by Muller, 2^
fih Military Atlas 20 (h. Moravia, by Venuto, 2 Hi. Gallitz and Lo*
domer, by Lielkuny, 42 fmall (h. Hungary, by Artaria and Company,
4 fli. ; By Schrembl, 4 fh. better. Traniylvania, by Schrembl, 2 (h,
Sclavonia, &c. by the fame, 2 fh. Venetian territory (in Dalbe). Atlas
of Gnllitz and Lodumir, with the Bukovin, by Maire, I2 (h.

M. Auftria, by the Artarian Company, Vienna, 1800. i large ft.
Bohemia, by Schmettau, 4 Ih. Venice, &c. by Santiiii. Chauchard'a
Germany. Oblong Atlas, by Kempen, too minute and crowded. Wef-
tern Gallitz, by JLichtenftern, i fh.

S. Auftrian dominionrs, 1 fh. by Baron Lichtenftern, 1793' ; this map
embraces the Netherlands. Hungary by Windifch, 1 (h. ; the fame in
Townfon's Journey, i (h. Muller's Bohemia, reduced, i (h. Bannat,
I fh. Old maps of the Venetian territory, by Nolin, 2 (h. ; by De Witt,
Homann, Sanfon, Jaillot, i (h. antiquated ; the lalt mentioned is the
beft.

Townfon's Travels in Hungary. Riefbeck's Travels. Wraxall's Me-
moirs. Bom's Travels in Hungary and Tranfylvania, and thofe in the
Bannat. Beaumont's Rhxtian Alps. Dalmatia, by Fortis.

Prujfmn States.

L. Poland and PrulTia, by Zannoni, 25 fli. Atlas by Sotzmann,
31 Ih. All the provinces publifhed feparately. Atlas of Silcfia, by
Mayer, 20 (h.

M. Sotzmann's, 16 4to (li. '♦-

S. Pruflian dominions, a French map reduced from Sotzmann, 2 fh.
Reduced by Sotzmann, i (h. iSoo.

Marfliall'a Travels. Coxe. Riefbek. Wraxall, &c.

Spain.

■i*'-

Ij. The geography of this country is impcrfert ; the beft atlas Is that
of Lopez, but it is poorly and inaccurately executed. The coafts have
been drawn by Torino, the royal allronomcr, with great care, and pnb-
lifhed at Madrid 1798. As Lopez remains the chi "t u.^horily for the
interior, a brief view of liis work may be proper.

^tlus (u'ogrcijico de Efpana^ compueftu por Don Tomas L»pe% y Vargas,
Ceografo pnr S. M. tit Sus Reales Dominos, de la real /icademia de S. Fer*
nando, de Ictreal Socicdad Bajcnngada^ &c. Madrid 1792. Imperial 4to.
Map I. Ancient Su; .1. 2. Modern Spain, fmgle Ih, 1788 j longitude

fro«^

AND BOOKS.

•78J

from the Peak of Tenerif. He accufes the foreign maps of errors in the
divifion of the governments} and the courfe of mountains and rivers. 3.
The Pyrenees, from Sanfon. 4. Modern Spain, 4 ih. by Lopez, 179s*
5. Province of Madrid. 6. Ditto of Toledo. 7. Archbifliopric of To-
ledo, 4 fl|. Then about 36 provincial maps, with Majorca, Minorca*
I vica, or Iviza. States of Barbary . The harbours of Tripoly and Tunis.
The bay of Algiers, with the attacks 1783 and 1784. Plans of other
African harbours. The Iflands Azores. The Canary Iflands. Parti-
cular maps of the Canary Iflands. Chart of the gulf of Mexico, and ol
the Weft Indies. Cuba, Hifpaniola, Porto Rico. The Lefler Antilles,
or Caribbee Iflands. The Iflands Lucayos. The environs of Mexico.
Tierra Ferme. Province of Carthagena. Other American provinces.
Plan of Quito. Marianne Iflands, by Lopez, 1784. In Spanifh maps
the north is marked by a caftle, the badge of Caftile. — Minorca, 2 fli. bf
de la Rochette, 1780.

M. Spain by Mentelle and Chanlaire, Paris, 1799, 9 fli. well engraved.

S. By Lopez, 4 fli. By the fame, i fli. Faden, i fli. ,

Townfend's Travels. Burgoang, Baretti, Link, &c. Thofe of
Dillon are chiefly tranflated from Bowles's Spanifli work on the natural
hiftory of the country. Poriz, Viage de Eipana, 12 vols. 8vo. Ma-

drid, 1776*. Swinburn's Travels, 4to.
z vols. 8to. Fr. tr. -

Fifcher's Travels, i8oi.

Turkey In Europe.

L. Geography ve«y imperfeft. Moldavia, 6 fli. by Bawr. MoU
davia, &c. 1788, 2 fli. Danube by Mansfeld, 7 fmall fli. The fame
by Marfigli. Bulgaria by Schenk. Beflarabia, &c. by Guflefeld. Greece
by D'Anville ; and the Atlas to the Travels of Anacharfis. The Pro-
pontis by Zemenic ; by Chevalier, 2 fli. ; and the two ilrails publiflied
by Faden, 1786, (by La Rochette).

M. Wallachia by Ruhedorf, 1788, t fli. curious,

S. Turkey in Europe by Arrowfmiih, 2 fli. Faden's Map, I A*
Greece by La Rochette, i fli.

The Travels in Greece and the I^evant are innumerable. Among the
beft are Wheeler, Chandler, and Tournefort, with the Voyage Pitto-
refque, and Stewart's Antiquities of Athens. D'Oliflbn Tableau de
I'Empire Otoman, 2 tomes fol. The lall by Olivier, 1802, is only ■
another voyage to the liCvant. Yet the northern and weftern parts of
Turkey in Europe have been rarely vifited. Bofcovich Via^ffio da
Conftantinopoli in Polonia, con una fua relazione delle rovine di Troja,
Bafluno, 1784, 8vo.

■''•'■" ^ .: ' ; '^ ' ■ ■ -:

• • ' • • ' - Holland.

L. there are provincial maps of all the provinces, but the new furvey
\\illbe preferable. Wiebt king's Holland and Utrecht, 1796, 8 fti*
Nurth Holland, 16 fli. Reduced, 4 fli.

• Tlitre irp many other Inrge (Jcfcriptions of Spain, u the Atlwite Efpanol, 14 vols#
I**, ibwt i* airv ta Uuivulal (juo^rii^Uical DkUoiiu| Ly i'ere { iit d volt. 4tu.

', . M. Tht

?«4

CATALOCxUE OF MAPS

. M. The United Provinces by Zepp> a good clear map* >5 > '■ • ./I
8. The Seven United Provinces, with the Land of Drent and Cene*
rality Lands, 1794, by* Faden, 1 (h. Mr. Faden's maps are in general
.highly to be praifed for accuracy and neatnefs.

Ray's Travels. Thofe of Marftall and Mrs. RadcUfFe, &c. &c.
Febure Itineraire* 1784, 2 tomes, i2mo. Pilati, 1780, 2 tomes, i2mo.

Denmari,

L. Moft of the provinces are completed under the direAion of Byggd
the ailronomer ; and fome good maps of the fliores, &c. have been pub-
lifhed by Lowenorn.

M. The Ifle of Zeeland, &c. byWeffel, 1777, i fli.

S. Denmark Proper, (by E. P.) Copenhagen, 1763, I (h. mifer-
ably engraved. Norway by C. J. Pontoppidan, 1785, 3 fli. good,
and decently engraved. The fame in Baron Hermelin's reduced map.
Iceland by Erichfen and Olavius, 1780, I (h. but the projediiun is er-
roneous, the length being one-third too great : See the Voyage of La
Crenne, Paris, 1 778, and the Journal of Zach, vol. vi. The Ferroe
Ifles by LowenornI Norway and Sweden, i (h. Faden. The fame,
Pontoppidan, i fli. There are feveral maps of Denmark, Sweden,
Norway, and Iceland, all comprifed in i fh.

MarfhalPs Travels. Coxe, &c. Von Troll's Iceland. The map is
carelefsly drawn, and among other omifllons are the names of the rivers :
in p. 5. there muft be fome grofs error in diftance* Voyage to Norway
by Fabricius, 1779, in German,

Sweden.

L. BaroH Hermelin's Atlas of the Provinces, Stockholm, 1 797, is
excellent, and adorned with interefting profpe£):8 in Lapland, &c.
M.
S. Hermelln's reduced map. Faden*s by La Rochette. 1704.

Travels of Maupertuis, Coxci Marfhalfi Wraxall| &c.

Portugal

L. The geography is perhaps worfe than that of Spain ; and Link
has pointed out many grols errors in the maps by Lopez, &c. A new
furvey is in progrefs.

M. By Lopez, in 8 fii. bad. By Jefferys, improved by Gen. Rainf-
ford, 6 fh. new edition, 1790.

S. The chorographical map by De la Rochette, publifhed by Fa-
den, 1797, 1 Hi. perhaps the bell yet executed. Compare it with
that by Lodge after Zanoni. For a grofs error of Lopez fee Link}
p. 257.

» "

Link's Travels, 1801, 8vo. tlie bed account yet given of the coun-
try. Murphy, Southcy, &c. Lima's Geography of Portugal, 1736.

Dcfcriptiou

AND BOOKS.

Defcription of PortiigaI| Lifbon, 17S5, with an account of Portuguefe
iaints*. ,■•:,•:: ".. ..... ' V. ... . - v.

Stutlferlancl,

L. The Atlas by Weifs, geographical engineer, Strafburg, an. 8j
1800. &c. excellent.

M. The old map by Scheuchzer, 4. (h.

S. The reduced map by Weifs, 1 fli. excellent. By Mechel, 17991
t (h. good. That in Coxe's Travels is of little value, from the great
fuperiority of thefe two,

Coxe'a Travels, the bell of all the modern feries. Bourrlt, De-
fcription des Glaciers. The celebrated Travels of Sauffure to the Alpa
chiefly relate to the French and Italian chains. *

i!:Et 1

•I.

Germau States,

L. There are large maps of moft of the eleftorates. Saxony : The
military atlas, &c. and the maps of the diltrias. Brunfwick-Lunenburgt
or Hanover ■: many maps of the diftridls. Mecklenburg Schwerin,
t6 fh. Strelitz, 9 Wi. l)uchy of Berg, 4 fli. On the South of the Mayn
there is an atlas of Bavaria by Riedl : and an atlas of Suabia, (inclu*
ding, of courfe, the Duchy of Wurtemburg,) in 30 fh. The Duchy
of Wurtemburg by Vifcher, i fh. Of all the other ftates there arc
alfo topographical maps \.

M. Chauchard's map of Germany 9 {h. (the fupplement may well be
omitted) has a deferved reputation ; but it is to be regretted that he has
not fpecified %\\t mountains and hills. * Maps of Germany, north and
fouth of the Mayn, are wanted on a large fcale. The electorates, &c.
may be had in Ungle Oieets. Wiebeking's Lower Rhine, or Frontier
between France and Germany 10 fli. j:.

S. A map of Germany in 4 (h. by Covens, bad. By Zannoni, mid-
dling. By Klein, in fome cftimation. Germany, 4 fli. by de la Rochette,
Dominions of the King of Great Britain in Germany, 1 fli. Faden, 1 789.
Germany, from the map of the Royal Academy at Berlin, Faden, 1788,
I fti. The German rivers, 4 fti. The fame, i flj.

Riefl^eck's Travels, the bed general journey through Germany. Nu-
gcnt's in Mecklenburg, dull. The Travels on the Rhine by Mrs. Rad-
cliffe, Cogan, Gardner, &c. Travels in Germany are either too local,
or embrace France and Italy, as Keyflcr, &c. &c. In German are thofe
of Niculai, 8 vols. Leikc in Lufatia. The Hartz by Lafius ; or the

* The Azom properly lielong to Europe, and fliould be inducted in in«]M df tluit
quarter. I he defcription (hould have followed that of Porttigal, the neareft ]and, and to
whicli they belong. The moft recent account U that of Adanfnn, in his Viiyageto Senc-
sa>, 175<), Rvn. 'I here is a dclacheil map by Lupe;( ; and another by Simpton, puUtQiel
Ty Laurie and Whittle. One by Tofino, 1 fli. excellent. By Bellin, 1 Ih. 1755.

f The nia|)s of Homann are now of no ufe except for German Provinces. Homann of
Nurcmburg died in 1724 i but his heirs and fucceifors continued to publifli map* under
thai iianio for forty or fifty years ; and among the latter there are fome ot German provinces
CM'Cuiel by a^ble hands. See a incmuir concerning Homann in the Gcc^aph. Ephem. Nov.
1801. p. 464. Tliere are foiuc gcxxl re( ont maps of German provinces by Mtnnertof
Murrmburg. Jaeger's Germany, • I fli. c«mtie. Hanover Foft map, 4 ih.

X WicNcking'a luapt of the Kliine, 1790, are vcr^ cuin[)l'-tc.

3 C Uet

l,r' 4 A

784

CATALOGUE OF MAPS

iter of Ritter, 1740, 4to. On the S. of the Mayn, Bianconi's Bavaria^
and the German works of Hacquet and Gerken.

Ifaly, '

L. The maps of the various ftates divided into provinces, &c. States
©f the King of Sardinia by Borgognio, 25 fli. ; copied by Faden, 1765^
i» fli. Ligurian Republic, 8 fli. Republic of Genoa by Chaffrion,
copied by Faden, 1783, 8 fh. An excellent large new map of Naples,
by Zannoni, ie in progrcfs.

M. Each c/ the ftates on one (heet. Naples by Zannoni, 1769, 4 fh.
Sicily by Schmettau, 4fh. good and fcarce. Dominions of the
Church, by Maire and Bofcovich, 3 (h. Lombardy, &c. by Zannoni,
4 fli. very rare. Cifalpine Republic, by Delamarche, 2 fh. Mklta and'
Gozo by Palmeus ; copied by Faden, 1799, 2 fh. &c. King of
Sardinia's dominions by Caroly, 4 ih. (For Venice, &c. fee Auftria.)

The travels in Italy are very numerous. Among the beft may be
mentioned Cochin, 3 vols. 8vo. Paris 1773, ufefulfor artifts. Lalande,
9 vols. 8vo. with an atlas, Paris, 17 16, a good general compilation*.
Martyn, London, 1791, 8vo. the beft fliottguide. Moore'sView of Socie-
ty and Manners in Italy. Dr. Sniith's Travels, 1793, 3 vols. Young's
Travels in France, for the north of Italy. To which may be added
the travels of Ferber, Spallanzani, and Tozetti, &c. and the D'tarium
Jtalicum of Montfaucon. Swinbum's Travels in the Two Sicilies.

^fu

'la.

By D*Anville, 6 fh. ftill a valuable map for confultation and compari*
fon. By Arrowfmith, iSoi, 4 fli. the beft extant.

Turkey In Aftu.

By Hazius, Vaugondy, &c. i fli. The Euphrates and Tigris by
D'Anville. Paleftine by the fame f.

The Travels of Sandys, Wheeler, Chandler, Chevalier, &c. &c.
Maundrell's Journey to Jerufalem. Ruffell's Aleppo, &c. Mariti'»
Cyprus. ,..•-. .^

ulfiatlc Rujfta,

The maps of the governments are of little ufe, being in the Ruflian
charafter. Thofe of the Ruflian empire have been already mentioned;
There are Latin maps of fome of the governments by Trcflgott and
others. The two Latin maps of the river Irtifli, by Iflenieff, are
curious and important ; as is Mr. Ellis's Map and Memoir of the
Country between the Cafpian and the Euxinci 1788.

Voyage de Pallas, Giorgi, &c. Thefe intercfting travels are abrrdged
in the Hiftoire des Decouvertes Ruflesy Berne, 6 vols. Svo. Pati'in»

♦ The Defi"rij,tion Hiftoriquc of R'uhard, 6 vols. 8»o. !s pptfcneil to La atiJr.

f In general iU<s beft maps of Alia, America, and .\tVica, m^y be confultti fur cacii country.

Voyage

AND BOOKS. 787

MuUer, P. floire Ju flew ' Amurt

Voyage auMont Altai, 1781, i2mo.
1766, 12010. Bell's Travels, &c.

^ Chinefe Empire,

Atlas by D'Anville, which ought to accompany the work of D
Halde. There are 42 maps of various fizes, of which 16 contMM
China Proper and its provinces, a^ually furveyed, in the courfe of many
years, by the jefuits, and probably with as much accuracy as the me-
thods and inftruments then ufea would aidmit. Eaftern Tatary, or
more properly the country of the Mandihurs and Monguls, has alfo
fomc claims to accuracy, as the jefuits attended the emperor on frequent
journeys into thefe provinces : but to the weft of the river Etzine
little dependence can be placed ; and the delineations of Little Buchariai
and Tibet are certainly grofsly inaccurate.

Tatary by Witfen, 1687, 6 (h. curious, muft not be confounded with
that by be Witt, I fli. By Strahlenberg, 1737, curious.

The beft fmall map of China is that of D'Anville, i (h. This
country is alfo well delineated in his Afia, and in that of Arrowfmith.
Part of the empire is illuftrated in the maps of lileniefF, and the Ruflian
n^aps of the boundaries. See alfo the maps in Crofter's account of
China : but particularly thofe in the Hiftoire Generale de la Chine.

Nieuhofif's Voyage, exicellent. Du Halde's China. Ozbeck'f
Voyage. Gaubil's Genghiz Khan, Paris, 1739. 4to. for the Chinefe
geography4)f Mongolia. The Memoires Chinoifes by Amyot, Paris,
15 vols. 4to. chiefly relate to the manners, fciences, and hiftory of the
country : but the Hiftoire Generale de la Chine, 12 vols. 4to. is an in-
tereiling work, and a Angular monument of French fcience. Add the
e.xcellent Travels of Bell, 2 vols. 4to. or 8vo. ; and particularly Sir
George Staunton's Account of the embafly to China, and Van Braam't
Travels.

Japan.

There is no good large map, thofe of Kaempfer only difplaying part
of the coails along which he travelled, while his general map is fmall* ''
D'Anville has made fome improvements ; and there is a map in one flit
by Robert *.

Kxmpfer's Japan, and Thunberg*8 Travels, both excellent.

" ; - ' Uirman Empire, 8cc»

The maps in Mr. Symes's Journey. The geography of Exterior In-
dia is very imperfet^, but expefted to be improved by the refearcfies of
Mr. Dalrymple. For Siam D'Anville's map of Afia may be confuUedj
and for the outline of the coads the charts of D'Afprcs, which are
defcrvcdiy edeemed.

Louberc's Siam. Turpin, Hiftoire de Siam, Paris, I77l» 2 vols.
Richard, Hiftoire de Tonquin, Paris, 1778, 2 vols. Svo.

• MefTrs. Ilohens, the father tnd fon, were gcograyhert cf co&fidenble rcpaiation>
partlcukrly Robert, iVyled de Vangondy.

3E a

Hindoflan*

78S

CATALOGUE OF MAPS

H'mdqflattt t

Rennell'g map« 4 fh. De la Rochette's, i (h. good, 3d edit. i8oa
Rennell's Atlas of Bengal. His map of the fouthern part, dated 5th
April 1800. D'Anville's Hindoftan is antiquated and full of miftakes*
Peninfulaof India, Faden, 1795, 2 fli.

Hamilton's New Account of the Eaft Indies. Voyage de Bemier,
excellent, though old. Bartholomeo (Wefdin's) Voyage, excellent fot
the fouthern parts. Hodges's Travels. Voyage de Sonnerat, 2 vols.
4to. The account by Tieffenthaler, in Bernouilli's colleAion, is a dull
and tedious chorography. Knox's Ceylon, &c.

- " Perjia* .

There is no large map of this interefting country. That of de Lifle *^,
in I fli. may be compared with the Afia of D'Anville or Arrowfmith.
The materials are vague and imperfect; and there can be little dependence
on the longitudes or latitudes even of the bed: Oriental geographers.
The recent map by Wahl is illegible ; but deferves to be re<engraved in
a fuperior manner, and on a larger fcale. That of La Rochette, to iU
luflrate the marches of Alexander, is very beautiful, and drawn up with
confiderable care. Georgia and Armenia, 4 fli. 1780.

Voyage dc Chardin, 4 vols. 410. Thevenot's Travels, bad. Taver-
nier, good. Le Brun, bad, and the plates feem to be frequently fabri<
cations, as ufual in the Dutch books of travels f . Hanway's Travels
are good, though prolix. The Journey of Franklin inftmi£live and
amunng for the Toutliem part, while the northern is well illuftrated by
Gmelin. After Olivier's firft volume, little can be expedcd from his
fccond. Otter's Journey, 174^2, ranks among the belt, but he is too
full of quotations from the Oriental geographers. Delia Valle elteemed.
The Journey of Olearius, of the envoys from Holftein,

Arabia, ''

Maps of feveral provinces occur in Niebuhr's defcription; and it is to
be regretted that he did not publilh an eutire new map. There is an old
map b^ Vander Aa ; but the beft are thofe in the Afia of D'Anville and
Arrowfmitht the former is publiflied apart by Laurie and Whittle, as
are likewife Perfia, and Turkey in Afia.

Niebuhr, Voyage en Arabie, 2 tomes, 4to, and his Defcription de'
I'Arabie, i tome, 4to. To which may be added, la Roque, Voyage en

Paleftine, Paris, 1717, 8vo.
Arabia*

Arabia Heureufe, and the Voyage dans la
which contains Abulfeda's Defcription of .

jifiatic IJlands*
Chart by Arrowfmith, 4 flieets, excellent.

«f Sumatra, in Marfden.

D'Anville'sAfia. Map
Of Java, in Stavorinus. The Philippines,

* Tliere !* one by Homann of Nurembuiv, but that manufaAure is in little eflwein.
In the Vouage of Niebuhr iherc ii an interesting map of the vicinity nf Perfepulin.

•^ Thnfe publiflied by Vander Aa are particularly Dbnoxious ; the prints, as in Mandrl-
ilti« 1719 or 1717, being often transferred from old Uxiks; nay, fomctimeii, the fame
view will ferve for a irreat nuuibcr of placea, whcthar they llaud on rocks or plains.

If D'Anville-

AND fiOOKS.

789

D'Anville or Arrowfmi ;h> Afia. Of the interior of BdrneOi Celebez,
&c. little is known.

' Marfden*8 Account of Sumatra* Foreft's Voyage to Papua. Voy-
ages of Stavorinus, &c. &c, Valentyn*3 account of the Dutch nof-
feflions in the £a(t Indies, publiihed about I728» coniifts of eight
large folio volumes, with upwards of a thoufand copper plates, and
is extremely rare even in Holland. Sonnerat> Voyage de u Nouvelle
Ouinee, 4to.

■.■■»■

AVSTRALASIA.

New Holland, &c. in Arrowfmith's Chart of the Pacific, 9 flieets.
The fame reduced, 1 (heet.

Pe Brofles, Hiftoire des Navigations aux Terres Auftrales, Paris,
1 75 61 2 vols. 4to. excellent. Dalrymple's Colleiflion of Voyages in
the Pacific, 2 thin vols. 4to. and Supplement, curious and intereft-
ing. La Borde, Hift. de la Mer de Sud, Paris, 1791, 3 vols. 8vo.
Cook's Voyages. Governor PhilUp^s. Collin's Hiftory of the Qolony,
4to. &c.

. ., ' V^ Polynesia. .

Arrowfmith's Chart of the Pacific. Maps in De Brofles ; and of
Otaheite and Tongataboo in the Mifllonary Voyage. Ifland of Naviga-
tors, in that of La Peroufc, &c. &c.

Cook's Voyages, Captain Bligh's. Thofe of La Peroufe; The
Mifllonary Voyage. Gobien's Account of the Ladrones. Defcription
of the Caroline Iflands in the Supplement to De Brofles, &c. &c.

I I

i|: 1;

■I

"■' % ''

'■ I

AMERICA. \ .*; ■

North and South by D'Anville, 5 flieets, 1746, 1 748, or by Green,
1753, for the progreis of the geography. But there is no recent gene-
nu Riap of this continent, which can be recommended. That of De-
lifle, 1739, I flieet, curious, and exa£t for the time. By La Rochette,
1*7971 I (heet. ,..

Morfe's American Geography, 4to or tfvo.

North America. ...

Arrowfmith's map, with improvements and additions to 1S02, about
e feet by 4, excellent. It is to be regretted that the Spanifli dominions
in North America are not included. For thefe recourfe mufl: be
had to D'Anvilley or to the map of the Weft Indies by Jeiferys^
>6 flieets.

... . '.^.:v^.^,-\\ . = ,- , V

United States, . ..^^

L. I'here are maips of moft of the provinces; and a general Atlaf
Ittbliftied at Philadelphia, but in little efteem.

3 £ 3 M. Arro

79©

CATALOGUE OF MAPS

M. Arrowfmith's map, with correftions to 1802, 4 ffi.

S. Single ftieet) common. The provinces in Mr. Morfe's work.

Morfe*« Geography. The travels of Kalm, Burnaby, Weld, Roche*
foucault, BriiTon, &c. »

' .. ^ . Spanijb Dominions In North yfmenca,

A great deficiency in the geography, as the Spaniards are peculiarly
jealous of thefe rich fettlements, their chief tenure on the new conti-
nent. The Mexican dominions in general feem delineated with confi-
derablc accuracy in the map of the Welt Indies by JeiTcrys, 16 (h. cor-
rected and improved to 1792 ; and the fame reduced, 2 fh.or Bolton's
maps in Polllethwayte's Didiionary of Commerce. There are maps pf
fome provinces by Lopez. Others by Sanfon of Old and New Mexico*
&c. California by Conftanzo, 2 (h. 1771. New Spain, by Alzate, in
fipanifh, X Ai. The environs of Mexico may be found in Careri, from
a drawing by Boot, an engineer employed to drain the lake. Anothev
in Clavigero. The bay of Honduras and environs are publifhed apart
by Faden. A new map of the Spanifh dominions iu North America,
excluding the Weft Indies, is greatly wanted.

Recourfe muft be had to old writers, the bed being Gage, 2d edit.
1655, fol. or the French tranflation, Amft. 1721, 2 vols. i2mo. The
6th, or laft vol. of Gemelli Careri contains New Spain. This work ia
now acknowledged by the beft judges to be genuine, and a voyage
round the world has ceafed to attract much obfcrvation, as there would
be little difficulty in paifing to China, and thence to America and
£urope. There feems no doubt that Careri performed this circuit : the
fault is that the book is rather a diary of trifles than a work of folid
information. There is a Spanifh hiftory of Cinaloa by Perez de Roxas.
For Louifiana, now fubjedt to the United States, the works of Du
Pratz, Charlevoix, 5cc. may be confulted. The voyages of Papes
round the world, and to the north and fouth pole, feem very doubtful,
as may be judged, among other circumftances, from his delcription of
Mexico. The beft recent account of Mexico, but unfortunately fhort,
is given by Cliappe D'Auterochc in his voyage to California, I^ondon,
1778, 8vo. Memoirs of the Jefuits concerning California, 3 vols. 410.
Madrid, 1757. Noticias Americanas, Mad. 1801, 8vo. Cardena>|
Hiftoria dc la Florida. Alcedo's Dictionary.

BrUiJh Pnjfejftons.

Arrowfmith's map of North America. Smith's Upper Canada, i fli.
x8oo.

The Travels of Hearne and Mackenzie, Lahontan, Charlevoix,
Weld, &c.

• -<v

/ . Native Tribt*.

Colden's Five Nations. Laflau's Manners of the Savages, but the
figures d J not rcprefent. the people { and the deferiptions are not of un-.

impeached

AND BOOKS.

791

impeached accuracy, Charlevoix. Du Pratz. Greenland, by Egede,
or Crantz. Travels by Carver, Hearne, and Mackenzie, &c. Adair'a
Hiilory of the American Indians contains a kw curious fa^s, diftorted
by an abfurd fyllcm.

North jimerlcan IJlandff or JVeJl Indies »

Large maps may be had of mod of the Rlands. The Weft Indies
by Jefferys, 16 fh. Reduced i fti. Bolton's maps in Poftlethwayte's
Didionary, and thole in the Hiilory of the Weft Indies by Mr.
Edwards, ■ , •

Labat's Voyages to the Weft Indies, 6 tomes, 8vo. There are de-
tached French voyages to feveral of their iflands : but the accounts of the
Spanifli are, as ufual, antiquated. Among the Englifh are Ligon's Bar-
badoes. Sloane's Jamaica. Jeifer}'S has publifhed an account of the
Spanidi Iflands, wah 32 maps and plans, London, 1762, 4to. The beft
account of the Brit'di is that by Edwards. Raynal's work is funk into
difefteem, and is faid by Mr. Edwards to have no moie truth than Robin«
fon Crufoe. He was one of the new French philofopherc, who tSsSi to
be learned by fpecial infpiration. >

South America.

The map of La Cruz, engraved at Madrid for royal prefents, I77^»
and publifhed at London, by Mr. Fadeii, 1779, 6 flu. the beft yet given.
Maps of fome of the provinces are among^ the works of Lopez, but as
ufual, of little accuracy. The environs ot Quito, wiierc the degree was
tneafured, may be found in Bouguer, or in the French edition of
Ulloa. In 1750 D'Auville publifhed the province of Quito, 4 (h.
But La Cruz muft be preferred, though by a ridiculous failure he have
omitted to denote in a proper manner the great chain of the Andes, and
the other ridges; there are alfo fome political difguifes. In J 774
Fulkncr, who nad been a miflionary, publifhed a map of Patagonia in
2 fh. but it will be found very erroneous, when compared with La Cru2.
The Rio de la Plata, and fome other portions, are alfo publiflied apart {
and our aflicnto and contraband trade has contributed to improve the
geography.

Span'ifh Pojfejftons.

The maps above mentioned. Peru from the aftronomical obfervationi
of Condaniine, &c. Paris, I fh. Malcfpina's Survey of the coaft, from the
Rio de Plata to Panamai S. and W. 5 (h. excellent.

The voyage of Ulloa. The beft tranflation is the Ffench, 2 vols. 4to.
for in the Englifh, 2 vols. 8vo. many important tables, &c. are omitted;
and the prints fo miferably reducea that they are alike ufelefa and un-

Elcafant. Voyage de Condamine. Lettre de Monfieur Godin. Bouguer,
'igure dc la Tcrre, for an excellent account of Peru. Dobrizhoffer, &c.
&c. Wafer's defcription of the Ifthmus of Darien, 1699. Voyage de
Frezicr, 1717,2 tomes, I xmo. Gily, Storia de Terra Firma, 4 vc^b. Rome,
1780. Vidaurre, Compcndio del Chili, Bologna, 1776, 8vo. Viage at
cHrecUo de MajccUauca de orden de S. M. 4to. Molina, Storia Naturale
. * 3E 4 «»«J

79»

CATALOGUE OF MAPS

del Chili, Bologna, 1781, 8vo. Storia Civile del Chili, Bologna, 17S7,
8vo. both good.

Portuguefe,

The Portuguefe ?re the mod illiterate of European nations, and the
accounts of their fettlements in America and Africa obfolete and imper-
k&.. Even the geography of their own country is a mafs of errors |
and if they have any maps of Brazil, they are without the fmalleft claim
to common accuracy or reputation. Blauw publiihed a map of Brazil,
when a great part was poffefled by the Dutch. The SpaniHi map of
La Cruz is the bed modern authority, though here D'Anville feem
copied. In Bougainville's voyage to the Falkland Iflands there are
fome local maps and plans. > .« ^

The Voyage of Bou^nville ; Sir George Staunton's Account of the
Embafly to China ; with the works of Faria tranilated by Stevens j
Oforio ; Barros the Portuguefe Livy, &c, Sec *t

Prencb,

French maps of Cayenne may be compared with La Cruz ; but the
wide debated lands are now refigned to the French, with a yet farther
cxtenfion of territory towards the river Maranon.

The Voyage of Pes Marchais publifhed by Labat, 4 vols. wUh 4
map b^ D'Anville ; and many recent voyages, &c. &c,

Dutch.

There is a detached and rare, but coarfe, chart of the (hores and rivent
printed at Amfterdam ; with feveral Englifh charts.of the river Surinanni
by Walker, 4 iht &c. Guiana by Captain Thompfon, 1783, i (h,

Bancroft's Natural Diftory of Guiana. Stedman's Surinam, &p.

Native Trilet*

^iftory of Para
rizho^i^r de Ahiponibus, Viennai 1784. Mofina's Chili, Sec.

The map of La Cruz. Hiilory of Paraguay by Charlevoix, Doh«

lina's

.1 , -i" JJIandi conneSed with South jimerica,

Ulloa's Voyage. Bougainville's Voyage to tl^e Falkland lilands.
Cook's Voyages, &c.

* Lkfitau's HIAnry or the DifrnvrrlM vnA Coiiquefts of thi> Portiiguefe in the JV!n«
tV»rld, Paris, 17a:i, 9 vuIr. 4t(i, ot I'Jmo. eudi with lAHO, whtn I'unugil becwnefub-
if A t« Sptin. It woulfi have bton v%luiihle, m RulH;rtfun, in liii Hiftory uf Amerire,
nu wholly oniiued the I'ortugucie fcttlrntrnti') but tlie tltlf ii grofily crroiieousr » (he
wurk it reftri^cd tu the Fortiicuefn rOablifliinents in Uimhjlan, end is airaiigod •crurtliiig
to the (V^rin of cnvemors ot'Goa, with funic flight rcferinres to African efRiin ; nor is
Brazil perhaps oii(<i ipriitioiMHl in this hiflury uf l^mu|^tfn tnnfaAions, t/mu le vimuvemt
Tnww/r, tu ufc tli* uonli in the tiilr, by a iiortcntuqa error whiih fccms io eviiKe that a
I may b« a jrfuit aud yt-t waut coiiiinuii iciiie.

The

'%]

AND BOOKS,

^91

AFRICA.

The maj. of D'Anville, 1749, 3 ^- '^ ^''^ ^^^ ^cft, excepting the
parts explored by Park and Browne, and may be compared with that
of Delifle. That publiflied by Wilkinfon, 1800, 4 fh. is decent, but
there ar« feveral errors, and fome miitaken applications of ancient geo-
graphy. The detached maps by Rennel may be confulted. In Saug»
nier's voyage, 1792, there is a French map which may afford fome
hints, but there are many miftakes. The maps in Shaw's work are
Angularly confuted, frort) the mixture of Latin and Arabian names, but
deterve to be re-engraved with improvements. That in Lempriere's
Morocco feems tolerably ex^ft ; and from it fome importfiut pofitiont,
as the city of Morocco, the chief ridge of Atlas, &c. may be coU
le^ed.

Africa by Hafius, 1737, i fli. Py Robert, 1760, 4 flu By Gen-
iron, Madrid, 17541 i Hi.

ulbyjjin'ta, »

The map in Bruce's Travels may be compared with thofe of Tellez,
that of Ludolf, and the Africa of D'Anville.

The Travels of Alyarez, 1520. Thofe of Lobo, 1625, tranflated
ty Dr. Johnfon. The account of Abyffinia by Tellez, LiHion, 1660,
folio. Itudolf's Ethiopia, 2 vols, folio. Poncet's Journey, izmo.
or iu Lockman's Travels of (he Jefuits, 9 vols, 8vo. truce's Travels^
5 vols. 4to.

Egypt.
The »nap of D'Anville, and Memoir. The delta by Niebuhr, &c.

Lower Egypt, &c. by La Rochette, 1802, I fh.

Travels of Pococke, Norden *, Niebi^hr, Browne,
accounts. Volney, Savary, Denon,

The late French

!•! !

Si ,'«

I %

Mahometan States*

The maps of Shaw for Algiers and Tunis. The general maps and
Lemprierc for the others. Fez and Morocco, after Tofino, Hoeftp
and Lcmpricrey by CanfleVi 1797. Mediterranean, 4 (h, 1785, Faden.

Shaw*tt Travels in Barbarv, or rather in Algiers and Tunis | the bed
edition is the 4to. Tlie Travels of Pgiret are trifling, and Chenier'a
book a feeble compilation, Lempriere, good, Hoeft, 17 79, in Da-
nifli or Germany f^ooA. Agrell in 3wedi(h, 1800. For Tripoli, Bruce
and the publications of the African Society may be confulted. The
curious reader may look into Addifon's Welt Barbary, 167I1 or Ock*
ley's 171 3. In general Dr. Dapper's Account of Africa, or Qgilby'a
tranflation, may Itill be ufed with advantage, ai there are few more recent
accounts of feveral countries, whence thejr labours in this region alone
of the globe are not wholly fuperannuated. Sanfon pubUfhed at Paris
adefcriptiun of Africa, 16 j6, 1669, 410. with feveral wapa.

* Tlicre (f » French edition, 1800, 4to,

WiJItrik

194

CATALOGUE OF MAPS.

U^^em Cdo/!. '

There are old maps of Congo, &c. The account of Lopez or Pi,
gafetta, Mandelflo, Dapper*, Cavazzi, &c. and fmall detached maps
by D'Anville, 1731. Of the river Congo there is a chart by Max-
well, 2 (h.

A defcription of Congo by Lopez, or rather by Philip Pigafetta
from the papers of Lopez, waa originally publifhed in Italian, Rome,
1591, 4to. whence it was tranilated into EngliHi by Haitwell, 1^07!
4to. in Latin it forms the firft part of the Smaller Voyages' of De Bry^
159S, folio, and there Is an appendix ty Bruno, 1625, folio.

£)efcri%ione JJIoricu delii tre Regn'h CongOy Matamba, £5* Jngoht
eomp'tlata dal P. Gio. Ant. Cavaz%i, Bologna, 1687, folio, pp. 933,
large prii ., with plates; or Milan, 1690, 4to. This curious work
vraa tranilated by Labat in his Ethiopie Occidentale, Paris, 5 tomes,
1 2mo. which muft not be confounded with the Afrique Occidentale of
that voluminous compiler. In 1776 Proyart publiflied at Paris his Hif-
tory of Loango, from papers of French milfionaries 1766, with a new
but imperfed map, a curious and intereftiug work f .

Labat's CoUeaion. Bofman's Guinea. Norris's Account of Da«
bomey. Park's Travels* Adanfon's SenegaL

TAe Cape,

The Survey by Barrow. The Travels of De la Caille, Paterfon,
Sparman, Barrow, &c. As repeated falfehoodi have been detefted iu
Vaillant's books, efpecially the Laft journey, they are chiefly to be read
for amufement.

' , The Eajlern Coafi,

There is a fmall map by D'Anville, called Ethiopie Occidentale, which
comprifes Mocaranga, and other dominions of the Monomotapa or em-
peror, 1732 ; but of thefe fingular and intereftine countries the geogra-
phy and defcriptions are alike imperfe<^, nor is there even a miflionary
modern account of Mocaranga, Sofala, Sabia, &c %, The letters of
the Jefuits probably prefent (ome materials ; but Lockman's is an
injudicious compilation, often containing the moft trivial matters. The
German voyages of Bucquoy I77i> and Thomam 1788, may* be
confulted.

Madagafcan

Flacourt hai publiHied a map: and Rochop has been contented with
one of 1727. Bellin has given a large map. There are feveral French
accounts, Rochon'f being one of the lateft.

* Dkpper'i African IllanJt were publifliKd 166S, and hi* Africa 1070, in Dutch. Tha
platn arc ufed bj Ogilby, 16*1 ; and much woru in tlie French tmnflation, 1686. Sa-
nuto'a Africa ha* font* curioui nwpa.

°t i^ alfo Zaccheln'a Avcount of the Miifion la C'tngo, pubUlhed about 1719. An-
gelo'* Vovag« to Congo, 1 666, if in LaSat, tome ▼.

X Le Grand, in hi» dtflertatlons annexed to Lobo'a AhyfBnia. fp. S69, Johnfon'* tr.)
quntet Di« Hantda hticfia OrittUiUi, U>v»n, iCOtf, of wliich there it a Frcntb tranflatiouf
I'ai-ls, 1684, lanio.

AND BOOKS.

195

African JJlands,

General map. There are detached maps of the liles of Bourbon and
Mauritius, &c.

Rochon's Madagafcar. Grant's Mauritius, Sec. For Kerpruelen*t
Land, Cook's lafl voyage. Glafs's Canary Iflands, &c. For the AzoreSf
fee Portugal, as they ftri£ily belong to Europe.

HYDROGRAPHY.

Though charts be not confidered as eflential in the (ludy cf geogra-
phy, yet as. a few of iflands, &c. are admitted into colle&ions of maps*
It may not be improper to offer fome hints on the fubjed. In a large or
public library indeed the bed charts fliould appear, as well as the beft
maps. But in general the chief purchafers of charts are merchants,
for their counting houfes ; and captains and other marine officers, who
procure the mo^ recent and authentic adapted to the voyage. Such
are often bound up together, in the form of a narrow oblong folio*
and are ftyled Neptunes, Pilots, &c. Thus the Eaft India Pilot con-
tains more than a hundred charts for a voyage to the £aft Indies, or
even to China, including detached charts of the ifles, coafts, and har-
bours, which may be vilited from choice or neceffity. In like manner
the African Pilot prefents charts neceiTary for a voyage to the Cape :
and there arc Pilots for the Britifli coafts, the Baltic, Mediterranean,
Weft Indies, &c. Each chart may alfo commonly be had apart, and
is often accompanied with Sailing Directions, as well as the Neptunes
and Pilots, in a detached o£lavo form. The Dutch are carelefs na-
vigators ; and the beft charts are the Enelifli and French. Yet the
Dutch, in the fixteenth century, feem to nave been the iirft inventor*
of the collections called Neptunes, Flambeaux, Colones de la Mer,
*c.*.

The moft celebrated French name is that of M. D'Apr^s de Manne-
vilette, vrhot% Neptune Oriental, or Survey of the Indian Ocean, &c. it
highly and defervedly efteemed by all feamen. The charts oi Bellin*
Engineer of the French Marine, 1737 — 1767, chiefly relate to the
Atlantic, and their eiUmation is principally confined to France. His
Neptune General Hlls a or 3 thick folio volumes. Bellin alfo publiflied a
fmall maritime atlas, in 5 vols, and a feparate defcription of Guiana and
ns fltores. His Neptune Frangau prefents the coaits of France, Spain,
England, Holland, &c f .

In England the Neptunes and Pilots are always compofed of detached
charts, by various authors and obfervers. Mr. Dalrymple, in his zeal to
promote geographv and navigation, has publiflied a prodigious number,
perhaps a thoufana, detached charts of ifles, harbours, coafts, ftraits,
(hoals, lee. chiefly in the Oriental world. Among other works may be
mentioned the American coafta, or Atlantic Neptune, by Des Barres,

* Tile hydrographic woric of Du^y duke of Northumberland, Florence, 1647, 4 voli.
fol. !» net only I'liriijun but offoroe value.

f TItere is ■H'ua llydiographu Pranjai/e lately compiled by Dezturhe, one of the chief
f eniJen of vtutfis at I'aria, Mid *hisk couuiiu recent rieoolt clkaru of moft psna of the

177^.

Vi.

! !

'f I

75f<5

CATALOGUE OF MAPS

1776, (too full of neology ;) the various Pilots publirtied by Moitnt and'
Davidfon ; Murdock's Atlantic Ocean, publifhcd by Faden ; Mackenzie's
Charts of the (hores of Scotland and Ireland ; Huddart's Chart of the
Weflern Ifles ; Captain Rofs Donnelly's of Ferroe, the Orkneys, Shet»
land, &c. J 797, which may be compared with Lowenorn't Chart of the
Shetland Ifles, 1787. Of the Englifli coafts there are various chart8»and
it might be rafh to indicate a preference. For the prefent purpofe it
tvill be fufficient to commemorate a few others.

Arrowfmith's Chart of the Pacific, 9 Ih. and of the Afiatic Iflandsy
4'{h. The Indian Ocean, 4 (h. T he South Sea Pilot, 28 ih.

Mr. Faden has alfo publiihed feveral charts of great reputation, as :

Parts of the Baltic 1802, from Nordenanker and Wybe. Gulf
qf Finland, by Captain Goff, 1785) 4 fh. Gulf of Florida; Wind,
ward PaiTage ; Malefpina's Coall of S. America, 1802; Gulf of St.
I«awrence, 4 fh. Coafts of Labrador and Newfoundland, by Lane ;
Bay of Breft, &c. 1802 : with feveral by La Rochettci drawn from the
be ft materials.

Some valuable charts have been publifhed by Laurie and Whittle, fuc»
ceflbrs to Mr. Sayer ; and by others, fuch as Steel, Moore, Mount, &nd
JDavidfoo, Gilbert, Heather, &c. whofe reputation can only be juftly efti*
mated by feafaring men. Even in a fmall coUeflion the charts of feveral
inlands, as the Azores, the Bermudas, the Canaries, &c» &c, will be found
interefting.

The coafts of Spain, publifhed at Madrid, 1798, by Toiino, may be
^nfidered as an accefiion to European geography ; and the fame aftrono*
mer has given charts of fome parts of Barbary.

Thefe hints may fufEce for the geographical ftqdent ; but it may be
added, under this department, that there are feveral voyages, chiefly pub*
liihed in France, profeifedly undertaken for the purpote of improving
aftronomy and geography ; fuch are the Voyages of Bouguer, 1749 {
Xlhabart, 1753 ; Courtanvaux, 1768 ; CaOini, 1770*; but particularly
the Voyage tar ordre du Roit by De la Crenne, Borda, and Piner6, Paris,
1778, 3 vols. 4to. abounding with important obfcrvations, which have
radically improved the geography of feveral countries. The Voyage of
Kcrguclcn to Iceland, Greenland, Shetland, Norway, &c. Paris, 177 1»
pr Amft. 177:2, 4to. may alfo be mentioned in this dafs,

It is to be wifhcd that travellers, iuitcad of overwhelming us with ridi-
culous voyages to the Levant, would examine the geography of fucH
eountfies as arc little known, in which cafe they would contribute in-*
finitely more to the ftorcs of modern knowledge.

Thcfe few obfcrvations on hydrography may be cotifidered as intro«
du£lory to a brief lift of the circumnavigations, and more general
vo^ges, which cannot well be arranged under particular countries.

The Voyage of Magalhuens round the world was the firft, for it wouI4
be ungenerous to deoy the title, becaufe that great navigator was flaif)
in the Philippines. Pigafetta, who accompanied Magalhaens, drew up
an accpunt of this memorable voyage in Italian, which haa recently been
publifhed in a fplendid manner. But for general ufe the French tranfla*
tion, Paris, an. 9. will be found intercfting.

The Voyages of Sir Francis Drake, London, 1 65 3, 4to.

* Then! !• alfb > Journey to Grra»ny by iho fune author, to cxamUie tht geognpli}
•f the Pal«tiiuite« &c. Tarts, 1776, 4to.

Dam*

AND BOOKS.

797

lJampier*8 Voyages round the World, London, 1729, 4 vols, 8vo.
includine Wager's Voyage.

Gemelli Careri's Vovage round the World, Naples, 1699. 6 vols.
He was a lawyer, and left his country from fome domeftic uneafinefs.
That he really performed this voyage feema now to be admitted ; but
the book is trifling, and a voyage round the world is no longer a matter
of wonder.

Anfon*8 Voyage round the world.

Cook's Voyages, with thofe of Dixon, Portlock, Vancouver, Bou«
gainville. La Peroufe, 8r.c»

To enumerate the colleftione of voyages would be infinite. The
French Hi/ioife General des Voyages is more amufmg than accurate,
and cannot admit of quotation or reference, as the originals muft be
confulted^. The Novus Orbis of Grynacus is the oldeft collection ;
which was followed by thofe of Ramufio, Hakluyt and Purchas. Ber-
geron's curious colle^ion appeared 1630, &c. 8vo. ; reprinted at Ley-
den, 1742, 2 vols. 4to. In 1663 Thevenot publi(hed hid firll Volume,
which was followed by two others. Ray's Collection, 1693, 8vof.
Harris's Collection appeared in 1705, 2 vols. fol. being a good general
hiftory of voyages ; it was afterwards improved by Dr. Campbell*.
2 vbls. fol. 1744. 1748. Stevens's Collection of Tranflations, 2 vols.
4to. 1711. Voyages from the Harleian Library, 3 vols. fol. 1745.
Churchill's Collection, 6 vols, fol, 1752. new edit. Aftley's CoU
leCtion, 4 thick vols, in 4to. rare and valuable, 1745 ; the editor is
called Green in fome catalogues, certainly a man of great learning and
induftry. De Brofle's Navigations aux Tevres Auilrales, Paris, 1756,
2 vols. 4tQ, tranflated by Callander, Edin. 1766, 3 vols. 8vo. There
are feveral modem EngliOi collections; by Salmon, 2 vols. fol. 1755.
Guthrie, 7 vols. 8vo, 1767, &c. &c. Thofe by Hawkefworth and
Dalrymple Z\t in fuperior eftimation. To which may be added the re-
cent collections by Dr. Mavor. In German is the Sammlung^ &c. a
collection of the beft and neweft travels, Berlin, 1765 — 1782, 23 vols.
large 8vo. In Spanith the Fiagero Univerfalt already mentioned : but.
this laft is rather a hiftory of voyages,

• In Sptnifli there it el Ftagero fnucr/ai bv Eftalla, Madrid, 1796, 8(C. whicli will
occupy about 40 vols. 8vo. The defcription of the L'nitrd btiitcs mtd Mexico appeared in
1799. Unfortunately Spin5(h and Portuguefe books can fcarctly be procured in London.

•f* l>ttfrefnoy mentions a colledlion, liOndon, 10*4; 4 vols. fol. and oiie^ 17a^
(Churchiil's,) s vols, fol, with a prefvce hy Locke.

ill

INDEX.

. AARr
-TV Abs

Aberdeen

Abitib riv«

Abo

Adyssinia

Arapulco
Aclieen
Achil iflani
Acirs, or
fome
Adam's Bri

FtK

Adayes

Adel

Aderbijan

Adige river

Adrianopie

Adultery pr
the mi

Aetna raoui

Afgans

Afnoit

Afrka

pop

difc

colo

Mai
tl
Eafl
Sou
Vfcl

A^lmerc del

At;ime

Agriculture (
I

INDEX.

Adam't Bridge

A AR river
Abawi rivet
Aberdeen

UQiverfii)
AI)'4X>ns

Abittb river •

Abo .

Adyssinia >

mountains
Acapuico - *

Acbeen
Achil ifland

Acirs, Of fnowy hurricanes on
fome Qiountaiu in France

ili
Fuot

Ad&yes - •

Adel

Aderbijan •

Adige river •

Adrianople •

Adultery pni(5\ifed in Spain under

the made of rcligloa
Aetna mountain
Afgans
Afnou
Afru'a

population of •

difcowrics and conjec-
tures refi)e6ling tlie
central pan?)
colonization uf> recom-
mended
Mahoigetan Stales in

the north of
Eafterp
Southern
Weftcrn coaft of
Ac^imcrc defert ■

A^ime - •

AsT*

Agriculture of thr eaftcm part of
Africa
of Span.ih N. America
, of the United States

of America
of Arabia •

of Auflria
of CaoaHa •

of (.a(bmir - •

ofChina « C

wet feiC*!

278 AgactiUurc of Cochin China 4 1 H

tao of Denmark - 5244

77 ofRcypt - 7.54

75 of England - 52

740 of France - lift

651 of Hanover » aoi

255 ofHindoftan - 4iJ

748 of Holland • aa3

750 of Japan - as?

598 ' of Ireland « 109

50a of Milan - 91 J

114 of the Netherlands Ida

ef Parma and Placentia 9 13

1.10 ofPerfia - 465

436 of Portugal * a<>7

ib. ofl'n»nia - igi

608 ofRuflia • I5S

76* of the RuHlan empire

453 in Afia,
312 ofSaxbny •
320 of ScotUnd

J:: ofSiam •

1 99 of Sicily

303 ofS|mia

454 ' of Sumatra
775 of Sweden
743 of SwilTerlaad
74a ofTatary

of Turkey In Europe
of Turkey in Afia
773 of VVurtemburg

Aluihuete, or CypreCs ot Puebia
777 Ahwaz river >

Aiagha mountain
757 Ajan
76* Aire river
763 Ak Tau mountain
761 Alttta, catara^
402 Alabaftcr of Kngland -

439 Alak Olla mountain
ib. Aland iflands

Alb, or Alps Suabian *

766 AlbanoLake
615 Albany fort -

river •

555 Albion, New -

491 Albuqurrque - -

175 Alchyniy AiU purf ued by tlie An-
644 biuns • •• 494

443 Alderncy id* - C*

59. 368 Ale, the varif(.)us fiirts brewed In England 3o

Aleppo

€40

aoi

83
410
300
306. oia
49s
35«
277
il69
331
325
39T

es7

465
467
765

53
4.') I
752

61
4SJ»
5:01
£88
301
G30
C51
650
007

551

i I

eoo

INDEX.

Aleppo •

Alelfandna »

Aleutian iUes • ••

Alexandria •>

Algicr - -

Alhanitira palace - ,

AKciuIa iflund *

Alid.-ck mountains
Allahabad

AJIegany mountains <>

Aller river •

Almiranti ifland *

Alps of Italy ; . *»
Strabian •

-arSwiflerlani]
ATftcr river

Altaian chain of mountains 842

Altamslia river *

Altan Nor, or Golden Lak«
Attar mountain *

Altona - V

Alum in the Tyrolefe Alps

native in the He of Wight
AI\'arado

Antazons river •■

Amlmzel Ruck •

Amber of the Birman empire ~
of New Spain *

of PrufTia •

jHcIds 50001. to the reveutie

annually in Pniffia
wf S|iain •

of Spumliead
Amhotlfmcnes mountun»
Amboyna ifland 501, .'t05f

cruelty of the Dutch to the
Englifh there in 1C23
Amedabad
America

firfl difc«vfiy of by

the Norwegians
fiirtherdifcoveriesof 530,531
population of
divifion into North and
Soutli •

Aaf£iucA> North *

chief Imports

from
central parts
Dritifli polfef-

fions
native tribes
and uncon*
(juercd
countriesof
Spaniih domi-
nions »>f
Antiquities of
Hillurical e]X)chs
Pt'pulation of
^KRiCA, South

native tribes
and uncon-
■ -»red
countries of

PAOG
i}33

AMtnicA, Sooth, Dutch fcttle-

HQ%

310

meNts

7as

655

French fettle*

754

metits

73?

758

Portuguefe

iga

fetUements

735

303

SpatiifhdomU

401

uions of

674

439

America, UitiTEo Statis

543

656

their coirtefl vrith

286

Er gland

S49

769

fpecuiaiion on the fu'^

303

ture condition of

547

28:)

Atnliara irtount&in *•

599

279

Amiens * •

126

294

Amflerdara * *

2i80

.48i>

Amu river *

429

556

Amur river - •

a6»

042

Anacandri *

751

672

Anadir river ^■

342

S42

Anamba ifland *

497

177

Anapolis river -
Anchovy fifh of the Mediterranean

646

619

Ancona •

307

669

Andaman Iflands *

404

750

Andegan * *

460

398

Andes mountains •

671. 699

636

Andrenovian iflcs -

348. 655

190

Andrew's, St., univerfity f

■ 75

Andrj ifland •

229

19!)

Angara rivef •

341

311

Angazi/a ifland

769

Angles, origin of that tehn

767

EhII

ib.

506.

and SaxuBS •

Angleiea ifles ., -

506

Angola • •

761

443

Angora - •

824

d30

Angra *■

619

Angrias, famous pirates *

444

530

ANHAtT

29»

.534.

Ann, St., town of "

645

534

AnnalMin ifland

770

Annan river *

.■i35

Anoupec mountains •

399

585

Anspacii

297

Antelopes of Hindoflan -

439

553

Anthony, St., ifland

617

651

falls of

540

Anticofti ifland

647

641

Antigua • j

663

Antimony mines of Sicily

30^

Antioquia

707

Antiparos ifle •

224

64 S

grott« •

ib-

Antonio, St., river

617

561

Antwerp • •

1.17

568

Anzoan ifland *

769

566

Aomoi fort

440

969

Apalachian mountains •

542

667

Apaneca mountains •

624

Apennines "

aoa

Apuiimac river •

669

Araha river • •

419

789

Arabia • ;

48«

■" • J

AftiBlA

1 N D E 3C.

for

PAGE

Arabia, hiftorlcal epochs

4S6

Arts of PindoAan - ' '

485

feaof

■185

Afam - •

423

Aracan - -

401

Afanj^aro

676

*Aial lake - » .118

4 82

Afccnfion ifland

770

Aranjuez palace

204

or Trinidada ifland

749

Ararat mountain

4fi7

Afchraff

46i

Aras river

4.52

Afliref palace

46-J

Araucans

7-22

Asia

Arbutus near the lake of Kil-

divided from Amfrica by

lariiey

111)

l^eering's llrait -

315

Archl)ifliops' privilejjes and jurif-

Liiii\n\iii table of the ria-

diftion in Enf^luiul

tions and !ati;:;uages of

il.

Archdeacons, authority of, in

the population of

322

England

plaMi of . -

.369

Arches, court of

iflaiids of ■ -

495

Architeaure of England - 30. 3a

Afii'tic foeieiy founded by Sir W. Ji.ncs

4:;8

Arcot

446

Afka river

388

Ar(ftic ocean

Afplwi'! of Now Spain - .

6,?6

Ardennes forcft - 131

. 140

AU'i i of Anhia

49!l

Arequipa

C98

of Spain

Arefcutan mmmtaln

Q45

Alfuiiii-nloa

684

Arc;iun, or Ar^un mountain

483

Aftracan - 150

. 339

Argus plieafaiit of Sumatra

499'

haihoiir

33d

Alia, or Durra Palus

466

Athal)af(;a river - '

541

Arifpe

606

Athapufcow lake

6sa

Aikenfa river

617

Alliens, remains of ancient

215

Armagh

108

Adios motmt

22a

Army of Spani(h South America

6ffo

Atini, the ancient Athens

2-20

of Spaiiifti North America

576

Atlantic ocean

of the United States of

Atlas mountains

74,§

America

547

Atioclc

44'i

of Auftria

169

Attnre

445

of the Birman Empire

394

Ava, city of

396

of tlic Britifh |X)fle(Iious

Aval ifland

4o^t

of Gana;etic Hindoftan

4.)7

Aucas

734

of China rroj)c*

354

Audiences, Siwiifli, in America

565

of Dcmiiark

a;) 8

Avghaiis, crAfjdiis

419

of England

Avon river

of Frame

12-2

Aurora Borealis of 1-ludfon's Bay

651

of Germany

085

of Shetland

of Holland

'.>i2tj

of Sweden

SS6

of .Fapan •

383

Aurtingabad

444

of 1\ rfia

4 58

Al'STRALASlA • »

508

of PovtUi.^1

'264

Austria - .

162

ofPiiillia

186

hiftorical epochs

165

of Hiiilia

147

Ativcr^ne bafaltie mountains

130

of Siara -

407

Au/iigurel

766

of Sjwin "

199

Axu or Akfu

473

of Swe<icn -

'i5a

Auxum

759

of SwilliMland -

274

Avr

ofTalury

366

Aiof

309

of Independent Tatary

474

fca of - -

of Turkey in Europe

217

Azores iflands - -

268

Arno rivCT • -301

. 308

Aroytt river

598

Arralx'da mountains

267

Babylon

454

Armcim river

. 397

ruins of

324

ArraRon canal

204

Ba(rtriana, or Balk •

45a

A.rran ifland

Badajor, - • •

20d

Arrin iflands

114

Badukfhan

480

Arroo Ifland •

513

Baden, margrave of - •.

39t

Arrowaks of Surinam

738

Bai'doo - n

774

Artliur's oven in Scotland

BaHin's bay - -

651

feat, Edinburgh

76.

Bagdad

324

^xXBf prefcBt ftate of, iti England

Ba luina, or Lucayos iilaiidt

664

^ F

Ealw

L n

\ 41

!'1

902

INDEX.

TAGE

PA(7^

Bahr el AMaJ, or real Nile

750

Batb, warm, remedy for alldifeafes

d Azrek

ib.

in Ruifia

148

Bahrein built of rock fait

489

Bitufaber

403

Balirin ifland - .

494

Bavaria, and Palatinate

293

Baikal fea

341

Bears, method of taking

347

Bain Gonjja riter

400

Beaver

653

Bakiaii iilaud, or Batcliian

506

of Labrador

650

Baktrgan fait lake
Baku haven

466

of Norway

246

a 99

of Rufila in Afia

346

Balabac ••

502

Beering's Ifle

655

Balamgaiigan

ib.

straights

819

B«!bcc

393

Belfaft

107

Balrafli lake

482

Bf^lleze river

619

B^*!*! mountain ••

556

Belgae, a name given to the Scythians,

Baldo mount

3l<2

or Goths, who fettled in Gaul

Balk

480

, chief anceUors of the Englifli

ib.

Balkafh, or Tcngis lake-

369

Bcigie cdonies of Englifh hiftory 14, LS

Balli inand

497

, antic^uities of 15, 1 6

Balm of Mecca
Baltic fea

493
8.7

Belgrade
Bellisle ifland

2t0
135

no tides in

Belur

481

Baltimore - >•

551

mounta'n

483

.Banana tree of Ab) flinia

751

Belur Tap; mountain

069

Bau> a iflatid

500

Ben Nevis, the highell mountain

Banda Iflands • 905,

506, 507

in Great Brit^ii
Benares

Bander Aballi

46.3

4^9

Banguly

502

uiiiveriity

426

Baxjaluka

220

Benbecula iiland

Bank of Fhiiadelpliia, or of the

Bencooleu •

498

United States

553

Bender •

220

Bankok

409

Bender Maflln liarbour

501

Bann river

Beni^al hay - •

318

Jianyan tree of the Birman empire 399

Benin - -

762

of Hindoflan

434

river • -

ib.

^ptifms in Srntland

7 'J

Berbiz river

738

Eaptifts of England

SI, 22

Berelos lake

755

Bara Iflaud

Benjen - ->

242

Ba»"»hin stepp ■

344

Bergflrafs mountain

288

Baracug rivtr

450

Berlin

180

Baradeni.s river

563

Bermudas, or Summer Iflands

647

Barbadoes

663

Bern

276

Barbela river

777

Bernicia, kingdom of

Barcelona

202

Bcrihek mountain •

468

JBaracas

717

Berwick

.^dii and ntthmera, of Ireland

105

Beverio lake

801

Bardfcy itte

Baieuth

Ban

Biajos of Borneo ,

502

297

Bible, a noble fpecimen of dignified

.106

Englifh profe

Barilla of Spain

205. 209

Bicnne lake

279

.^rk, Peruvian , or Jefuits

686

Billiton ifland

497

fiarniya river

619

Bintam

403

Barquifenients

716

Birds, the manner of fiihing with,

Barren ifle r •

404

on the lakes of China

361

Barrow river

Birds* iicfts edible, on the Adaman

Barrows

and Nicpbar iflands

404

Bartholomew St., iiland

jpofel town and uniyerfity r

66»

ill Borneo

503

275

in Cochin China

413

Bailees iflanda r •

Birds of Paradife

505

Bafra, or Baflbr* r
Ba<* iiraight r r

324

BiRMAN empire, comprtfing Ava

518

and Pegu

390

Bamciila

449

, danger from,

Baulha mopaftery

. 363

to Bengal

399

Batfivia

«00

Birmingham •> •

^th

Bifcay, New - -

963

properiipf of' th« water*

»9

Btfcaybay ^ r

•

Bifb-^

INDEX.

803

PAGE

Biffiopricks, valuation In the Icing's

Botany of the Cape of Good Hope

764

books

of China Proper

362

Bifon of the ITnited States of

of Denmark •

246

Amtrica

559

of Egjpt

756

of New Mexico

630

uf Eng and

Biflagos iOand

770

of Prance »

132

Biliani

462

(if Germany

28t»

Bitumen pits near Brighthelmilone

of Hiiidoftan

433

Blacic foreft

988

of (iolland

23a

mountains

ib.

o*" h.rian

088

Black lead of America

560

jf the W.Indies

6G5

Black river of Jamaica

662

of Ireland

112

Black Sea - . - '

of Italy - •

304

Black vomit of Spaniflt North

of Madagafcar

768

America, allied to the yel-

of the Netherlands

140

low fever

.^5

ofPerfia

46S

Black water river

556

of Pruifia

192

Blackenbnrg cavern

293

ofRuflTia

Blafkets i flam is

114

of the KuITian empire in

Blindiiefs prevalent in Egypt

754

Alia

345

Blue mountain

662

of Scotland

Boa ferpent 19 Temat, 80 feet long

506

of Spain

209

Boden lea _ •

287

of Surinam

73»

Bofin ifland ■; . „■. -

114

of Sweden

258

jBogdo mountain

320

of Swifl'erlaud

280

great mountain

4H3

of Tatary

369

Tolu, or Alim mountain

342

of Turkey - «

223

fait lake

ib.

of Turkey in Afia

327

Bogota

705

Botany Bay, felons fent to, in

catara<a • 706.71.3

1786, removed to Port

Bogs of Ireland

111

Jackfon and Sidney Cove

509

Bohemia

167

Bothnia gulph

Bokhara

480

Bovali

762

Boica (ipunt
B'llogna

812

Bourbon ifland .

769

807

BouTileaux

125

Bolfena lake

801

Bouro ifland

504

Bombay

443

Boutan ifland

ib.

Bommel ifland

249

Bownefs, or Borroflownefs

Bon cape

758

Bradfleld

BonavIAa, Newfoundland

647

Braga

266

Bones in the rock of Gibraltar

213

Brahmans charaAetized

420

Boodli, images of

448

ancient and modern

422

Bootan

371

abolition of, recom^

Borneo ifland

501

mended

437

Bornholm ifland

248

Brandenburg - ••

189

Boromean iflcs

301

Brafs of Spain

211

Borough £ngli(h, explained

Braflbs river - •

617

Bofphorus Cimmerian, now the

Brava - - -

706

ftraight of Caifa

Braul

735

Bofton, North America

550

Bread fruit tree in Gilolo ifland

505

Botany of Abyffinia

751

fuccefsfully plant-

of the north of Africa

760

ed in Jamaica

662

of the weftem coaft of

of Maouna ifland

526

Africa

763

planted in the

of Spanifti N. America

628

ifland of Mau-

of Spaniih S. America
•f the Luited States ot

763

ritius

76«

of NicSbar

404

America

557

of Otaheite

524

of Arabia

492

of the Pelcw iflands

520

of the Aliatlc ifles, Auftra-

of the Sandwich

lafia and Polyuefia

527

iflands *

522

of Aufh-ia

178

pfTinian

520

of the Birroan empire

399

of the Tropical

of Brazil

736

' iflands

»99

•r Canada and the N.ttf

firech'm • •

Am«|iica

«»7

firemen * •

294

oFa

Bieoner

m\ • .■' y
I,! ^l

lRo4

INDEX.

Prrnnrr mountains

Brfnia river - •

Biefcia

1^1 1 Haw - ■

Enft

liviave canal

Jkihpiy, an univcrfal vice in China

Eii(lii;e, itniarLiililc, in the Uniud

Suics of America
Bridges ill EnfflTiiid
EriJgevnttr, cliikc, the foundrrt f
iii'.tiiil nuvi^atidn in Eugiiind
Brientz lake
l]r;flol

Hot Well* . • -

Channel
Britain, ori;;in ol'ilic name

talilc of the annua' income
vahic of the ca) ital of,

1,000, 000, 000

.. ,; ^ naiioiial (iflit

jiolitii ill il>i|)Ortaiite
^ prciCH fs of iliK power of,

in IJinJofian
pofTeif.cn- of, in tiangftic

Hiiifl'ilan
fonVliions ill Southern

Miiuitilan «

New
Pnia river - .

Bruu"s
BrniMi
Uhlnswuk

New
nnniAvick Iluuro, HudfonV Hay
15ruli'< Is " -

Jimluiifll
iiucharid, Cirat
Little
Euda, or OfTeii - ■

nnlver(ity
Enrldi'inaut itiiniile
Biiill ill ii.cl - "

Eucnayre illancl
Buenos A) ITS

fity
BufTiIo nr Itily
Bnulas illaiul
Bull fValU of tij.iiin
Bnndiimir river
Bundili mfiuniijin
Buiriiniioodrrivir «

Bufl.eer - »

BulVora
Butcher, ih*" mi li rflirn kI [iroftf-

fioii III Maiidgdicur
Bute iUuBil V **

Cabtti madr of ihe fibrous tovtr-

in^ ul the citcoa nut
Cuhii! • •

Calaoii river ^

Ciulif, • •

Caenr.anheo • •

Cceriuuvoii * •

TMiE

TAGB

J77

Caflfa

150

DOl

Cairngorm mountain

e<)-i

( iiirc-)

753

lb'.)

Caithncfs, paps of

fifi

1.26

Calaliar

r _

761

i/:.

( alah.'fa

716

a,") 3

Cal!ic!i.a

447

Ca!l.:;c«

741

561

Cal;;;tia

4!i8

Ca'.iicr river

Calciy Hie

'65

Caledonia ajir.lied to
1 acltus

Scotland by

27^

New

• •

515

il'.

Calenbuffj

•

292

Caliiut

415

Calilbrnia

563.567

. 638

Calvin, his cruelly

Caiiihay

443

ib.

f anil)' [town

il'.

Camhodia

•

412

Cdiubridge, lift of colic

ges, and the

founders

421

Camel oi' Aialiia

4t»i

ol tiie Kirgus

'f.uar*

716

4J7

1)1' iMorcao

760

ri' I'eifia

469

4li

if Tiakty

Ort.'l

514

Canipcchy

604

219

Ca' !( Iior, how produced

409

li)8

( an;ida

641

171

fe:i of

ib.

Q9t

CauMv ida'uds

770

645

C..n<i'>:i'',i>a mountains

62 1

650

C:Mit.tlkir

f 12

. 163

li17

Cane' aii,l Caiu'urs

692

2'JO

Cani;iliuiam, Lrniin

fchool

478

C^niatu moiintuiii

•

131

47 ;>

Cannn IHand

173

Canniljalil'm ol' Suriiuun

738

172

of New

i^ealand

517

4 10

Chi.o river

'857

asi

Caiiiciljury

6«.3

province of

o;i

lee of

it:

680

Caninn

057

J05

CiMiui- , coins of, ilrurk at Dublin

1U6

503

Caoutclicuc, or elaUic jjuin of

200

Fii nch (iuiuna

•

739

4(>ti

Cai>f I'ldrjli liland

646

402

i-adl

•

019

4'i8

of (.iood Ilopfi

703

461

de Vinl iflaiida

•

770

463

Capii ,

•

007

Caia -

•

154

768

Carab.iya

C7»

Carat Hs "

•

714

^-illade

•

673

Curanp,a»

•

676

Cauls uftd by the M

onguli

836

433

Cariaco

•

llf

B. 46.J

(^rll.ljte iflandt

•

e«s

267

( aribn, or (.'anbbert

;a«

9U3

( ariiiioh

•

400

Carinihia, kko in

•

176

Caritilv *

/i> ......

^ D

E X.

)0'J

.)1

;)«
.17

41
20

il:

n.s-

iOfi
700

o»r.

700
70
:U)7
J. ■•4
f.7S
714

fi7!l
«)76

717
f,63
7110
403
176
44

kroiA

739
4 1 5
64
.'.71
lUH

0(")7
4.-, 7

PAGE

Fiirlfkrov.a - - 255

C'urinelltes, defprt of - 59H

Carjiiiic, or C'aniada - 446

Carniola, lake in - 176

C'fti-olihe iflauds - S2 1

< aroni river - 670
Carora - - 716
Carpatliian chain' - 177
Carppiuaiios mountains - 008
(.Hrriin, iron mines ui' Scuilu«d 90
Cairoivsof let land - • 104
C,ar(aj;e - - 604
Ca.iliage, ruins of - 758
t'arihd^cna - - 709
(iiruna nnt, ilie fl.;w poifon of the

Acawaw Indians
("«rwar

(. niylbroi >k tafllf in the Ifle of Wight
r'sia (irandc, ruiiis of,
(.alliel - - , ^,,^ ,,

Cu(hi:ar , ./ * ■ .^..

< alhiuir "
r^ii'ji.in fea
Calitl
L'allilcridcs, or ill:nids of tin, fiippo'fd

10 li;ive liccn an ancient name of

Britain and Irchmd - 11

CufTuwary of Anil)uyna , - ."io?

of New Holland " 512

Ciftcl RofTo idand - »,H)

Cnllilo, canal of ' - 205

(alls of Iliiulollan - 41i

('aiacomlis at Kidw - llil

Catanea - - 306

Tataiai^Ts in Cuniheiland - 64

fJHtcrj/ilLrs, eaten in New Holland 510

Cathay - - 350
Caiholicf, their proportion to protc(lanl&

in Ireland - 103

Cattle of Alnllinia - '751

(if Arihia - - 49!)

of Aullria - 179

^ , J of Deccan, from 10 to 14 fe.»t

hiph - 405

»)F England - - (Jo

'^^ of fVancp - i;)il

<i Ilindoflan - - 4;J4

ot Holland • 2ijj

clothed viih cimi

even in fuinmcr ii,

of Tinly - - yo4

of Morocco - 7.^H

of Ptrlia - . -H\9

V «f P(.riiif;»l - 2()7

of Ridria - - 157

in Ada - U46

of Scotland - B9

of the Kirgu8 Tatar* 476

of'lUet - • 077

of Tnnia • 74»

of Turkey - 32 1

whUh ^runk like fwiii* 370

CiucofuH mountain - 030. 107

Cavpii river - - 401

Cavi rn-) r' ntrkaMo in England 63

(.HxantATa • , C99. 69S

tVyrnna • - "17

t'ajrm ■ '« ■ 7'Jft

♦ ■.

CaynTi'.s - »

Ce.'lar lake
Cefaloiila ifland

Ci.'LiMO hike - -

Celt hcz idnnds
Celts t-if JJaiiinurk
of 1^11. land
of KiNinoe

of Hi.iland - '

of ilie -xetherlands
of Sj'ain
of yivili'erland
Ccnis

Coram ifliMid
("eventics nKuntains
Cr.YLON' illand
Cliacao hafbour
Chalco lake —

( ha!i;:r, I'lriil of
(,:liaii'cnt('l, hills

('liaihois .inimal - -

Chanijiiain lake
Clianicry ( utn-f (i( T'lvjkind
C hani; 'Pi or Tien, the deity of China

l'ro[)er - •

( han-^ai moui. tains
C;im|>ala lake
C linpultopec aqutdiiiSt
Cliaileflow;;
Charilalis

Chaftiiy of the Suinairans
Chancer the fnll rnrie writer of the

Knglifli languayo % .
Chavaitta

CheU'ea hofpital for foidicrs
Cheiwrll river
Chefs, playcfl at Cairo

a I'avoniile game of the Mon'
guls
Cltertcr

Chelleifield in'et, Huufon's hay
Cheviot inoniitains
Chialilli, or Vnuluz
( hi.ipa - -

Ch'ii has
Chiiheder

Chiein See - ^ •

Cliilmalma - -

( hili

Chllka \Ap
Chili'c ilbnil

('himlior,i/,o niountain -

(,'liitm, till- ]ii'puhition of 'j^ -
China, rmpire of
I'roper

di(Ti( iihiM in ntlrmpt-
ini; u coiuinelk
CinquitoR, chain uf
Chuafpeii liver

(hoiios );id( • •

Choroi;iaphy definition •

( liofillan • •

C V^riUiann -

Chrilfniiis, 20,00<^ innfTHpred in
l.'><)0, il7>00U in 109S, St
Japan ' , ■

CJirl(li:m(bnr)j » «

(.iiriMoiih' r .V , iQantl

80s

PAOB
565
556
224
901
50)
a;i5
11

115
225
Mid
193
273
609
504
1-50
447
741

7^3

4.)1

283

556

353
34 J
619. 621
598
551
306
50l>

676
46
5 J

753

3)6
43

651

473

5f)4

676

600

723
4il1
7»l
671
3
34<)

:i50

055
«>73
463

7*1

4S8

if;

'sj

. 0*1'

SUA

« ' 6t).i

8p5

INDEX-

Chiicuho - - 8/6.

663

C'hulclau rivpr

671

Church of Knglaud, cree<l of

title of fupreme

head granted by

the pope to

Henrj- VIII.

Churdiil! fort, Hudfon's bay

651

river

,541

Cibao, ujountain? of

661

C'icKbci of Spain

200

Cinaloa

563

Cinnamon peculiar to Ceylon

449

tree, introduced into the

IV iflandof Maritius

769

Cinira mountain

266

Circles of judgment in Denmark

and Norway

437

in Sweden

252

rirlcnit/. luke

176

Ciilalie|K'l mountain

625

i niHad Real

604

Civet cat oi Malaya

403

of Ruflia in Ada

346

Civil lift of England, its ufe

war, in the time of Charles I.

152

Clare ifland

114

Clear ifland and cape

il>.

Clergy of Englfnd, their privileges

number of, in Holland

S'SS

in Spain

197

in Sweden

252

Cloves knewn to the Romans

506

growth of, confined by the

Dutch to Amboyna

ib.

introduced into the Wtift

Indies in 1798

ih.

(1yd* river

S'i

Cuol mines of Auftria

ino

of ('ape Breton

953

of China

302

. . . of England

of France

184

of Hanover

893

, - of Heflia

of Nf^v Holland

»19

, ■ • ol" JajNin

890

T •■ of Ireland

ita

* of I'ortugal •

96S

; \ •f Saxony •

391

, : . cf Scotland

r . of Sweden •
^ „ uf SwifTerland

260

282

of Virginia •

560

of Wuvttmburjj

297

Cobalt mines of Noruaj

■47

Cobi, or Sbamo defcrt

820

Cocliabamba

676

Cochin

446

ConiiN China •

4LS

C'etlVe ol Arabia •

4*)0

Cohahulla • •

frdil

Coimbnora - •

44S

Cttimbra - •

•e«

univarlity •

ib.

r»taifc, American,

amount of • -

sia

<f Nt» .%••

•19

fAOt

Coliflandl - - 99'

Colair lake - •• 431

Cologne clefloyate - 295

Colombo - - 449

Colon, ifleof - 659

Colonies of England - 27

of France - 12 i

of Holland • S29

of Ruflia • 146

Colonfa ifland - 9t

Colorado Rio - - 61?

de los Marty res - 618

Columba S. who converted the

Northern Caledonians 74

Columbia college - 5«9

Columbus, his difcoveries - 199

in America 530

difcoveries atttempted by

huninAfia - 317

Comarca defert - 710

Commerce & manufaflures of Abyffmia 7 5».
of Spanilh
, North

America 610
of the Uni-
ted States
of America 552
of Arabia 490
of Auflria 17*
of the Bii-
man empire 3 9S
, of Great Bu-

charla ' 481

; of Calcutta 4,) 8

of Canada 648

of Canton 057

. . of Ceylon 449

of China

' I'roper 3>6

of Damafous 323

ol Dennurk 213

oi %ypt 601

ol England 49

value

of awpirts Si imports 50
% of Frame 127

ofHani-ver 291
of HtfTia 294
ofHindollan426
of Holland 232
•( Japan 386
vf Ireland !••
of Milan 811
of hcNe-

tlicrbndt 131
of Paraguay 684
ofl'crfia 46!!
of Peru 69i

of Portu^sl 266
•r Pruflia 1»*
ofRuOta ISO
of Afiaii«

BttfTia aaf
afSaxonjr 390
«r Scotland •!
ufSiam 409
m(Bi«^ bo*
'" CMuntrc*

INDEX.

807

PAOE

Cojqmerce & maiiuf*(flwrcs of Spani(h

N. America 609
.'. \ of Sumatra 499

• of Sweden 35Q

of Switzer-
land 976
of Tatarv 481
oftheKir-

gusTatars 476
ofTibet »75
ofTuAey 331
of Turkey in
^ Afia 324

of Vienna 172
I " . ol Wurtem-

burij 297

between the Maoillas and
Acapulco - 503

C'omolakc - - 301

Comoro iilands • 769

Condor of Madagafcar • 767

Congo - - 762

C'onigfburgh caftle, Yorlcihire, of

Saxon Danifli antiquity • 16

Connefticnt river - - 555

Conflanre lake - • 379

Conflantinwpie • 219

Continemt, the formation of H

Convocations In £ngland • 19

Cookery, Engiilh - 30

Copenhagen - 941

uuiverfi<y - it.

Copper Ifland - 349

Copper miaet of Africa • 765

on the eaflern fide of
'^ Africa - 775

ofSpanilh North America 6a 1
ofS|>anifhSoutli America 688

ofAofta - 810

of Auftria - l BO

of i^avaria - 296
«f the Cupe of Good

Hope - 765

sfCaftonBoul 834

«fC:hina • 363

of Cuba • 659

of En:;land > 62

of France - 103

ofGumifrant • 334

of Hanover - 993

of Heflia • Ur.

of Hindoflak • 4a«

of Japan • 1196

•rirehnd - 113

«f Luzon ifland A 03

of Maffachufctt 560

of the MilaneCe 013

of Morocco > 760

of Nonray •• 947

ofPortu{^ < 968

ofPntiriA • 193

ofllunift • 15t

of Saxony • fi91

of Siam • 411

of Sicily - OOS

•f<Siria«glit • 440

Copper mines of Sweden * 2t40

of Swiflerland 283

of Tibet - «7«^

of Turkey in Afia JJ29

of the Uralian mountains i)il9

676

of Wurtcm')urg
Copts, original inhabitants of

Esiypt
Coral, of the Mediterranean, the

work of a marine infeA
Corafan

Cordova, Spanifh N. America
S. America
mountains of
Corentin river
Corfou, ifland
Cork, die grand mart for Irilh provi-

fions
Coro

Coronar in England, his office
COrriarok mountain
Corrib lake
Corrientes
Oorfira ifland
Coruiina
Corvo ifland
Cos iflai:(l

Cofmogany, definition of
Cofmography, definition of
Cufla rica

Cotopacfi, volcano mountain
Cotton of Ambia

wood of the Arkeiifa
of Hindoflan <

three kinds of in Sumatra
manuftiAures of Aufiria
at Cilafgciw
Coventry

C ou<»u, or Courhan
Counties, or (hires, the original divi-

fion of Eiwlaiid into Id

Cbbry ihellf uM m fmaU coin »t

Calcutta
Crwow

nnhrerflty
Cn<le, or Candk iflaiid
Crey lake
Crocodile of Abyflinia *

of Jaw
Croix St., iflan4
river

297
753

7
463
COl

676.684

065

7;t«

224

107
716
26
86
110
C62
134
2CJ
2Ctf

sau
1
i7v
004
673
491
617
436
409

367

564.

»74

CroiBahy

Croubettf palace •'

Cronfta(h

canil -• •

Cnu, ^Mittr '

CubaHlaiid

Cuenca • ■

Cuimbach •

Cutnana > ^

C\imbetl«wl monittaitM ••

CuiDuing, tOMiBfld a TiR«i by tike 9i#>'

mne •

Cuiauo ifland •

OwifckHefkkt •

4:)*
17a

188

934

•4

75*
504
3)8.6fill
559
79
343

1-59
•44

45t

709

lit

«0»

8^«

I N D E X.

Ciiftoms and manners of A1)yflinia
. of .Spanlfli N.

America
^. America

597

580
6S0

tK !:

»•

•«,:)^

*> (> ■

# >«'
Cufo
Cu/.co

Cyclades iflauJs
Cyprus illaiid ■

dF the United

States of

Amcrira 548

of Arabia 487

ol tlie Birman

einijire 395

of Brazil 7-35

ofC'aimda 642

of Ceylon 44 H

»>f Cocliin-f'hiiia 4 1*)
oi (liiiia Proper HoS
fit' Denmuik
of Esxypi
of F.nylaud •
of F'rance
of Hiiidoltan
ot Hollaiui
t>f New Holland
ef Hungary
of Japan
of Ireland
ol'tlic KirsiufTts

of iMiifay
of P< vfia

of Portugal

of rriitfia

of Ruffia

of Aiiatic Euflla

of Scotland

oi Siam

of Spoin

of Stiniatra

of Swede a

of Swiiferittud

t)f Tatary

u( Independent
Tatiiry At*

of the 1 urks 2 18

ofliitkeylnAfia a'I3

oftheUibekf 479
676
697
'224
UUO

2U9
733

i)0
1Q3
Aii
•2-20
509
170
i384
104
4/5
40.)
4 59
«i94
264
187
148
a;i5

7-3
407
199
498
253
2/4
306

P«cr» . -

. - 4J8

jbnghiflan

. ' 4 52

Daeo ifland

- " 159

Dahl river «

• ■ 957

Damafeus

930

Paincras . •

764

Dainiata - .

754

Oatires of (lu; Hnfliaiu

li8

pMiea, antiquitjei of ,

Dantzirk ^ • •;• •

• 189

Dviubfl . •
jJapiuriao mottnt«!ni

179. uhe

• 049

DMrfur

•HAV: .^, iJU»

\¥^-)ttJ

• 1«

PACE
704
549
761

sas

616
326
172

Darieii -

Dartmouth college

Dates, land of

Davis, gulf, or fea of

Dauphin fort

Dead fea

Debrcvzin itniverfity

Deer, t! e various I nds of, in the

United States of America S59

Delapoabay' - 765

Delawar river - 556

Delft - - 381

Delhi - - 439

Dtnierari«nd river * 788

Deinhea • - 7.1$

lake of • I?!.

Denmark - ' . 204

exi<'iit of - il<.

hidorical epoilis of 2;)5

Derbent , - 462

haven - ;ji9

I)enveiit river - 5.1

Dcfert, great falitie, of Perfia 4«J«

Deferts of Africa - 7'f7

Louifi.ina - - 627

Defolation, iflnnil of - 7«ic>

Defpoto-Uaj; nniuiiltiin, Rhoduptt

of the ancients - '2-ri

Detroit fort - 64;*

Dcucaledoni.ui, or Sarniailati ft:a tt

Diamond oi tiio Dinrwn t innire 400

ot llcirnro - iO'J

of Spaiiilh N. America *> 1 1

; ,. mines c4' Miu/.il 7.)6

;. Ol Cjiliire 4<)i

of Hind»)ftan |^

of IVanar ■ 48't

of VKi.ipour 43»

mountains oiCioleonda

and Viimpour i(.

Dibbi or DarW Lake - 774

Dickeidbn college - 54 9

Diciijcri'*,. Van, Land - 517

Di«t of the Arabs ^ 487

the Knalidi - «iO

the •lapancfe • 384

the Perfiun-. • 460

t)\c Siamefe ' • 408

Scotland • 7**

0. the lurks Y aiS

Dindi;inl • • 44 A

Dinpvull - - •79

Difcovi.ri';s, UoarJi of Noincnclii-

tnre reconiiii).riivd to athx

ti,iin'"s to ■ - 517

Difniul Swunip • AS7

Uelfenters in l^nglund • t*

Dogs o> Eii/^IhiuI • Cl

ol New Hollaud - SU

of Ireland - ll'i

taien in the Saiidwieli iflatids A3'J

Ptipgerbank - 9

poinci river ■ 9U)I

i)ominj;o, St. ■ 0flO

cipnrfi from - l7'^

..» Xiiilfacit!,uLUie Mbitu* in 661

Domiiig«|

INDEX.

*09

PAGE

Douiiiiso, ftaips of the lilacks in - 6fil

Doiniiiic:i, illand ot - 6(}i

Don, orTaiiais, riio and courfe of 1 54

Dcmpjola - - 7-'>7

Doobiint lakes . - 65i
Dorado, E\, origin of the f;i!)!e that iis

ill ects are paved with gold, . - 739

mounttiiw - - 67;J

Dorchcdti-, famous for ale - 40

Dornock - - 79

Dort - - 2 31

DovcrilifTs - ■ - 5-2
Dovrafiril inountaius • . U4'>

Doiiio river - - 2o7

Doulrtt.ihad - • 44 4

Duwiiin^; collcgp, Cambridge 35

Drah - - 761

Drainmc river - - 244

Dniu, or l^rave river - 176

Drefden - - 2!>i)

» Drefs iif the Arabs - 4SH

ofC'ochin-Cliina - 4 I.J

of tlu' Japanefe - ;jb4

ct tiie Kir;i;u8 Tatars - 476

of (lie Potaudera - 1«8

of the Ruiriun! » 148

ufrd in Scotland - 73

4 ofSiam - - 408

of the Spaniards - 200

of the New Ztilanders 517

Drin river - - 2i2

Droghcda - - lOH

Dromedaries of the Kirgus Tatars 4 76

Droniiicini - . 2^2

Druids, rcniaiiis of the - 15
a recent iiidiiuiiua in the

time of Ccefar - U;
fiippcled to oii;;inate from

,, .•'"'urMiiian faOAorifS 16
Std.ielieiigf, not H Druidiral

nioinnncnt - 15

•; - mi.a'.ns uf in Franre lio

loinpic"! in Scotland - 70

Dublin, tht: Lilians of I'lolemy I06

{.oiiiN ol Canute Uruek at i/-.

fuiiety - »>'■,

univcinty o? - il<.

Duke, (Iciivatioii of - '^4

Duuilvarion - - 78

Dmnlrlcs - - i/'.

Dunfenuliue ■ • H;

Dun river • - ft J

Diuiu river « • 15 +

Diniflnlk ." • 109

Dundee • • 7 7

)nanuf»(nurc» of • il:

Duu'^avvou - - 108

DiiHJ.elil _ - • 78

Duruiigo - • • fit\,i

Town • 60Q

Dwrhan>, 'u» fituaiionandmnnuftt^^uni 4 1

a county pnlaiiiie - 1%

jud.:;e» iit there hy in-nniUioii

of the bifltop • ii.

■"Purfey ifliud . ■ ' ] U

Ptvtuit livur . t 134

Dyie - . « »;*v^,*

Dyiiafties of China, coUis of
Dzui river

:!?■• ^ .^ E

Eaheianomawe ifland
Earl, ilerivation of

Earn!«Ui;h ■ -

Earihtjnuke near Quito
Earthquakes i»f Spani(h N. America
in tlie A^ores iflands
trenirndoiis in Borneo
:• connnon in Japan

in Italy
Eaflinain factory
Eailer Ifland
Euflerlin^.', people from the {horesof

the iialiic
Ebcrnfee lake ' - .

Ebois. iliives fo called - '

Kbni river
EielcfiaiUcal courts in Rnsland

(•curt of Peculiars
Eddiflonc and li;,;lit-hiinfe
Edinburgh

Old Town

New Town

uiiiierlity

New
Education in i'ipanifh North America

uf Arabia

inAnlhia

in the Pivman empire

in Lhinii Proper

ofUcnninik
• of Ei'i'.land

of I'rar.ce

in liin 'oUan

in Holland-

in iliipaii

nuuii ncglci^^pd in Ireland

of the NcfherliUids

ofiVrfia

utl'ortui'ol

PAGE

139

351

462

516

24
HO
707
CM
26{)
501
887
300
♦)50
527

207

ftf
65

il:
ii:

Lli

ruinti

liitle knov.-n in Rullia
of tSiam
in Scotland
'-• , dafulfon of, in Scotland
in 8;vedcn
of Suiller'and
^ in 'I i.riiiy

- <ii Wuricmhurg
F/^mont port - / •

EoYTT - •

lint a Tmkifli province
Ei •; ill.tnd

Eini"'ck :• ■

Ekanl'ini'ko mittlh •

El'ia, Kluof ■•

EII'C ri\er -

Kll* n, or Eken river
kll.in-
Jbic^lisut tff Al))li'>ai»

7oi
587

4SS

171

241

U4
124 •
4>i(i

aiia

865

106

in 7

4«a

86*

IBfL

i4y

40«|
7 5-

aC5
275
210.

2i*7

74a
75a

Q'li

39t

457

809

176 191-2'.)i

£1' idmiit

tio

X N D E X.

TAOt

Elephant of Ceylon • 450

of Hindof\an • 435

of Malaya - 403

•f Pegu - 400

white, treated with a kind

of adoration in Slam 411

of Sumatra - 49*)

ofZanguebar • 766

Flephant&* bones lound in Mexico 636

Klepbaiita iQand - 444

Elgin - • 78

Ellas St .» luountaia • 656

Elk of Norway - 246

Elko lake - • 755

Eilichpour - 444

Elfter river - - 291

Elwend, mountains of • 327

Emerald mines of Mhzo - 713

Emerald mountain - 747

Enara lake - - 357

England - - lo

and Wales, boundaries of 1 1

original |)opulation of ib.

firft divided into (hires by

Alfred - 13

its antiquities - 15

conftitution of, oar boaft
and glory
, ., monarchy of, limited

Liftorical epkKlisof
feats of the nobility, fcc.
fvrvey of tlie counties ot,
advifed
EnRlilh, their charafter
Egroving, progrefs of in England
how executed by the
Hindoos
Enfili haven

Ephthalites, oc Nepihalitct ^
Erfurt ^«

StiTan • *<52. 467

Eriau univerfity - I7a

Ennen fbeet, a Ronoan road in

England
Ertzgebcrg mountains

or metallic mountains
Erzeron
• Efcurial
Eflcer rivet
Efquivo river
Etna

Evifa ifland
Euphrates river

EVKOft

axtmt and Umlu of

origin of the name ••

progrei&ve feofraphy of

religion •

clinwte •

the kiRi(dnnu ami flatet of

order of the anaageaent of

at the beginoii^ of thit

Binetaenth century

BuftattuaSt., MaDdof - M8

Euainegulf • - ait

Exports and imports of France
Eydar

PAGE
13S

244

23
ib.
14
45

55
15

374
319
478
S95

177

287

024

904

939

738

303 >

918

395.465.491

ib.

I*.

ib.

Faconie mountains

J8S

- ^B

Faemund lake

21.i

Fahlun •>

23S

Fairhead cape, in frcland

114

^m '

Falkland, or Malouiu iilands

74-2 ^

- ^B'

Falfe bay

70*

j^B

FamaguAa

a:)l

Fan, |w!m-leaf, capable of covering

^B ^

ten or twelve men ^ -

433

Fanoe ifland

24(V

Faroe illes

ib.

Fars, Perfis, or Pcrfu Proper

451

Fartfliel mountain

177

Fatlifo ifland

39«

Fayal harltour

269

H -

ifland

ib.

Fecjee ifles

525

Felicuda cavern - -

306

iiland

000

^^K

Felix St., ifland

741

Ferdinaudo Noranha, ifland of

742

Fergana

480

Ferokabad

445

^B'

Ferriter iflands

114

Fever, yellow, of Philadelphia

554

Fez.

759

Fezzan, an Oafis in the North of the

Great Defert of Africa 747.761

.779

Fichtelberg mountain

287

Filibe, or Filipopoli

3-2(j

Filippe, San

717

Fniland, gulf of

Fins, fome account of

148

Fins, the original inliabltants of

■

Sweden

950

Fire temple

468

Fire, wurfliippers of

457

in Arabitt

486

^B '

Fire-flies of Siam

411

''^B

Fifliuf Aiiflrid

179

few in the Baltic

of tlie Cafpian fca

319

of England and iu coafts

of Scotland

^B-

Fiflwry of Newfoundland

647

■ /

Filhing with birds on the takes of
China

861

Fifkeroe Ifle, or peninfula

94«

Flaml)Orough head

Flavia ( SBfarieiifif'

Flax of New Zealand

5ir

Flefli cut from the living ox, and

eaten in Abyfnnta
Fly of Abyinnia, fri.m whofc fUng the
ikxifliet with precipitation

74»

759-

H '

Florence

30S

Fluiea iOaad

497

■

FlfN-idaa, the

63t

F>i,feA of China «

059

FontiiubiNuferell

«M

■

•

Fof*

INDEX,

8ii

tAOt

PAGE

Por» iflanJ •

248

Fufi mountain >

338

■•.

Fbrefts oF Auftria

178

Fttfigawa river

it.

of China Proper

361

of England

. o -""''

' r charter granted by EdwarJ III.

ib.

of France

131

Gabreta Sylva foreft

178

o( Italy

304

Gael, or fouthern Celts, called Guy-

of the Netherlands

140

dels by the Welfli

11.

ofPerfia

468

Gaelic inhabitants of England retired

ofRiiflia

lb6

to Ireland

ib.

of Scotland

diale(<l uf the Celtic language

Foreft fubmarine remains on the wafte

exiAing in the Highlands of

of Lincoliifliire

Scotland and in Ireland

il:

Forfar

Grfgra, or Sarjoo river

429

Formofa, or Taiwan iflaiid

363

Gallegos river

671 '

Forth River

Gale, orGalle

449

Forts, old, in the United States of

, tzia

173

America

561

vialway

107

Fofle-way, a Roman roatl

Foulalis, race of, near the river

Gambia river

773

Gaming, prevalent in the United States

Gambia and Guinea

761

of America

548

Foxes, black

3*7

Ganderftieim, convent of

294

Fox idea

655

Ganges river

423

France

115

GaNCETIC HtNDOSTAK, OR THE

the jealous rival of England

CCIJNTIUES ON THE GAN-

antient and modern divifions

GES

437

of - H(

>. 118

Gangoutra, or fall of the Ganges

436

hiftoriral epochs

119

Ganza mountain

751

names of

115

Garda, Lago da

312

political in»>ortance and re-
lations of

Gardening, (late of in England

122

Gargarus mount

327

language introduced into Eng-

Garigliano river ,

806

land at the Com^ueft

Garnets of Bohemia

180

iflea of

769

Garomena iiland

114

Francis St., river

671

Garonne rivei

129

Frankfort

995

Gavel-kind, its meaning

on the Oder

189

peculiar to Kent

ib.

1 unireriity of

188

Gaur

480

Franklin collegje

549

mountains

483

Frazerburgh

Frederick Itoufe, Hudfon's bay

Gauts, mountains of Hindoftan

433

650

Geneva, lake of • -

279

town

645

univerfity

275

Friendly ides
Frifch Haff

525

Genoa

313

193

Geography, definition of

Fulda bishopric

993

general
: acred

ib.

Fullalloiiland

541

ib.

Fuller's earth of England

ecclcfutftic

ib.

Funchal

771

phyfical, or geofegy
niuorical

ib.

Fundi, bay of

64S

ib.

Funen ifland

94S

divifionsof

ib.

Fuaenl ritei of the Caroline iflandi

921

ancient, orclaflical •

in Ireland

105

ot the middle agea

»,

, of the Mtniuefe iflands

523

modem

ib.

of expofing the dead to
birds of prey, by the

chief oljjeA of nodtrn

ib.

the ordn in rhich it is

,:. Perfcea -

457

tnat«d

< of Perfia

460

plan of the amngtment

* ' in Scotland without any

of the work

'•'

fcfvloe

one of the eyes of hiftorv

, inSiam

407

dvU

in Tibet

074

Geology, or phyfical g««gnphy

in Turkey

«f New Zealand -

918

George kkt •> ••

S90

510

Gcoige St.» Channel

l\m» rif «r

705

iiland

•47

W»n, or Afun iMUDttb -

7§6

QtoiSi* - • 'S90

.461

;

8i2-

I N D E X.

PACE

German, or North Sea - s

German states - , 264

Germany, hiftorical ejioclis of - 285
Geihen, rocks of, one of ihe places of
confinement of the AhyiTuiian prin-
ces
Ghent
GliilnH

Ghifni -

(jhiziii

Giagas, drJaj^asof Africa
Giant's caufeway
Gibraltar
Gieflen imiverfity
Gihon river

or Aril river
Gilolo ifland .
Ginfeiig of Cliinufe Tatury
Gir river
Girafl, or CameIoi)ardalis of Abyf-

finia
Girgi
Glaciers of Hrentier

of Spit/bergen
of Stubcrt
of Swiizerland
of Tyiol
Clanfler mountain

Giafgow, antiquity, population, manu-
f'afliires, and commerce of
port

univcrfity
(ilobe, face of - -

Glogau

Glom, or Glomen river
Gloucefler
Gnuiu-Gnum
Goa
Goats of Tibet, their hair ma:1e into

fliawls - * -

Godaveri river

Gojani - .

Golconda mountains
Gold mines of ihe eafiem coalt of
Africa

of Spanifti Norih America
of Spaniih Sjuth Ame-
rica
of Al'am
"f Auflria
of Borneo
of Biaill

of (ireat Bucharia
of China
. of Cochin Chma
' of Chinefe Tataiy
• of-£ngland
, of France

ofGuiimyuata ^

^ ofHelfia

of Iliiwloilan
i>f Jjpan •

< of LaoM -

of Lii Plata
"f > *f Luzoaidaiid •

Gold mines of Madagafcar
of Mexico

^ of Norivay

of Pegu
of Peru

MOK
767
631
246
400
702

7.^0

of Fhilippi

S24

137

of Piedmont

310

4()2

of J*orto Rico

662

ib.

of Portugal

263

442

oC Piuffia

192

747

of "luffia

158

of Salzia

29S

'20t

of the leiid-hill

mountains

2<»4

in Scotland

.'318

of Siani

•'

411

466

of Siberia

158

504

' ■■

of Sicily

306

370

of Spain

211

746

of Stun.itra

498

of Sivtf'j-n

260

7.^2

• J - L^- '

ol S'liiVcrland

2S-;

7.^4

■J -:> ■

of Teiiri/.

462

lUl

■ ■' "r

of liidtpcnvlent

Tataiy

474

159

■' ;. i"

of Ziuaiccas

631

177

V ■*'

of 'I'ii.iet

378

'Jti2

of VVicklovv

112

IHl

Gulden

(flcs

520

177

Gomaui

mountains

4 32

C.ioinl>roi)ii iiarljour

463

Go mora

iQatid

771

Gonilar

■ -

750

(iondvva

n«h ImIIs

A-^1

GoOonj;

illand

507

190

Good 1-!

ope, ( ape of

763

244

Goodwin Sands

Googoo'

, inlia!)ltaiits of Sumatra, cover-

775

with long hair, little fnpcrlor

2G4

the oiirang otuaiig

49ft

Gotha liver

257

875

Gotlienberg

255

4 '10

Gothland ifland

261

748

Goths, the <uigitiHl inhabitants of Pruf

432

^"»

183

Gotliic i

irthitc£iiire, remains of

766

Gottingen univeriiiy

292

631

GouanAcus, pafs of

710

Government of liie United States of

678

America

546

42<J

of Spaniih North Ame-

IhO

rica

573

502

of Arabia

487

7.') 5

of Afia

320

483

of Auihitt

169

062

of the Birman

'niplre

394

413

of ( hina Prr^per

3 53

a7o

of Di nmark

237

of Et<,!anU

103

oi France

•

121

C31

oftheJiritlfli

JolTcfnons

291

ofGangtti.c

Hindof-

4J6 .

tan

437

390

of Hiiidoftan

423

41-i

of Holland

S2S

()H8

uf Jitpan

a»i

soi

«t Irc!ai><l

lOil

Governmtnt

INDEX.

PAGE

Government of the Malays 400
of Perfia - 458
of rorrugal - 2rt3
of PruHia - 186
r,^s.,:, of Ruffia - 143
of tl)e Ruflian empire in
Afla - 335
j;.;, of Scotland - 7 '2
of Siam - 40G
y. ' of Spain- - 197
of Sivcdei* - 5252
of SwiiTerland 273
of Tatary " - 365
of 'I ibet - 373
of Turkey in Afla 323
of Turkt-y in Europe Q17
Gozo ifland - - a07
Grampian hills - fi5
Granada - - 204
Spanifti America 604
New Viccroyahy of 703
Population of - 705
Revenue of - ■il,
Gratz - - 173
luiiverfity - 172
Green nwui.tams - " 556
Greenland - - 6 18
a p^rt of N. America 249
a part of a colony oi' Den-
mark - 233
Greenwich holpital for ftamen 4 5
obfcrvatcry - U:
palace - it.
Grenada idanii - - 663
Grenier mountains - - 432
(jreenock - - 7S
Grijalva river - Cj9
GrinibaiiKl vaults, Oxford, a Saxon rc-

rnaiiis - • 16

Gionirgen - - 231
Grotto, - "621

prodigious, near Adlelberg 181

of the fca ox - 306

Grubenhagcn - - 292
Guadalaxara - 563. 602

(juarlalaviar river - 207

Guadalupe river - 617

Guadarama, canal of - 205

Guadeloupe ifland - 663

Guadulquiver river - 207

Guam ifland • 520

Guamana { ■, • 698

Guanajuato - • 606

mines •• 631
• Cuanaro - "716

Guai axuato • 563

Guancavelica - 698

, Guanuco • - ib,

Guuranis, villages of * 676
Guutcniala • 564. 602
Guayaquil - 603. 704. 708

Gucbers - - 457

Guenimi motmtain - 279

GueriilVy ifland « 64

Cuiuua, Dutch - - • 738

Ficuch - 737

Guiana, Portnpiefe

Spanifli
Guinea

New

ifland
Guift)ury
Gurief

harbour of
, Gurrah
Gwalior fort

8*3

PAGE
735
720

761
512
496
64 f.
838
339
440
ib.

Haarlem - - 231

fea of . 238

Hadraniaut - > 485

Haemns mountain - 222

Hadz, tomb ot • 460

Ha£;ue - - 231

Haik lake - 761

Hainan ifland - - 363

Halberftadl - 189

Halifax ■ - - 43

Halle on the Saale - 189

Hamburgh - . - 294

Hami - - 369

or Camil - 473

HampKm Couit - 45

Hanau - '- 394

Hanazo river - 751

lIaiio\er - - . 292

hiflorical epochs of ib.

Hartfell motmtains - 8>

llarricana river - 65.1

Haitzforeft - - 399

mountains - 287

Harward univerfity - 549

Haftincs, Mr. channSler of 874

Haur river - - 46.'»

Hawafli river - 751

Hebudcii iflcs - - 91

New - 515

Hebudian channel - 8

Heem, refcmbling the ancient pipe of

Paa - - 39.6

Hfjaz - - 490

Heidelberg - - 395

Hekia mount • 347

Helena St., ifland of - 769

Helgeland ifland - 34S

Hem m«untain - ^-io

Hengili's tower near Leyden 238

Herat - . 468

Hercynia Sylva foreft - 178

Hereford - - 41

Hernafba Staer, or Great Lake 257
Herrings take refuge in the AriSlic Sea 9

thtVi progrefs - ifj,

HtOia - . 393

HclVe Darmflttdt . >. agg

Het/ardara mountains - 467

Hiaqui - a 617

Hielmar la]{,e • 357
Hieroglyphic infcriptions in Portugal 269

Hichlands of Scotland - 8(i

Hildelheim bifligprick - 395

Hills, lakcof tlie * 651

Him-

1' &

il.

814

INDEX.

HJmfnala, or Sno# mouBtSins

NlIfOOITAN

h'lftorical epochs eP
Central, or the middle

province* of
Sindetici or the eouutries

on the river Sindeh or

401
418
480

443

50J

aaa

469
i267

157

Indus

440

Southern divifion of

44*

Britifh allies in

416

pufleflions in

ib.

Marattft States

ib.

Nizam Alt, Soubah of

the Decraa

417

Seiks

ib.

Small States

ib.

Hindu Koh, mountains of

8S7

Hinmend river

466

Hippopotamns of AbyflTmia

752

of South America

687

of the Cape of Good

Hope

764

of Sumatra

499

Hirmanfladt

173

Hirfchberg

190

Hirta, or St. Kilda, ifland

Hifpaniola
Uitteren ifland

660
348

Hoanho, or Yellow River 319

, 876

Hog iflaiids

114

H<igoleu i{l7.nd

521

Hoho Nor lake •

869

Holi Kian river

414

Holland, or the Seven United Pro-

vinces

Q25

hiftorical epochs of

336

New

508

ifland

513

defcription of the in-

habitants

509

Hely ifland

fea

841

Holyiood honfe %

Honduras

564

Hoogley or Ugli

439

Hontalen mountun

345

Homed cattle of England "^

Homri£F lands

Horns of deer, enormous found in

Ireland

113

ftorfe Boys of Ireland

114

Horfes of Abyffinia

751

of Ar8l)ia

493

of Auftria

179

of Cochin China

413

of Penmark, Norway, and

Iceland

346

file various breeds of in England

•f France

133

•f Germany

3S9

of Hanover

393

of HinddUn *

484

0t Holland

388

•f Japan

889

of Ireland »

lis

erital!^ 1 -^

804

Hoifes of Mindanao ifland <•
of the Monguls
of Perfia »

of Portugal •

o( Rulfia
Ruflia in Afia the native conO'

try of . 346

of Srotland • 89

of Spain -. 211

of Sumatra « 499

of Sweden » 259

of Swifleriand . 883

of Cbincfe Tatary - 370

wild of Chinefe Tatary ib,

of the Kirgus Tatars 476

of Tibet - 377

of Tunis - 758

of Turkey - 223

in Aliit • 329

Horfe-flefli eaten by the Tatars 346

Hofpiiality to ftrangers in Ruflia 149

Hottentots of Africa - 765

Houfla - - 774

Howe fort • • 645

Hudfou's Bay • 650

Company - t*.

fea - - 651

HueFo - - 413

Huiribis - - 618

Hull, or Kingfton upon Hull, its fitua-

tion and commerce - 43
Human flefli eaten in New Zealand 5)7
(acrifices of the ancient Mexi-
cans 572
oilered in Otalieite,
the viAims killed
in their flecp 534
Human viAims facrificed in the Sand-
wich iflands • 523
Humber river • 43. 53
Hunihmton cliif • 53
Hunting in I'erfw with beafts of prey 470
Huraforas - , - - 513
Huron lake • - 537
Huron Indians - - 655
Hufs, John, account of - , 167
Hydrabad - • 447
Hydrography, definition of - 1
Hyena of AbyfTmia - 753
Hyeres ifles, thofe of Calypfo of Homer 135

Jackfon port - - 509

Jad ftone of New Zealand - 517

Ja' n de Bracamoras - 693. 703

Jagas - - 777

Jago St., ifland • 770

Jiuuar, American tiger 687

Jarofs, race of •• 761

Jamaica • • 66 1

exports • 663

Jantdro, ornllilake • 877

James's bay • • 650

ifland • 651

Jan S., ifltml • 181

J«nei)oRI« • • 735

INDEX.

S15

rARE

fAat \

Janeiro harbour •

73&

John town, Newfoundland

«47

Jafan •

879

Johor, kingdom of

403 '

Java ifland

497,

Joliba river -

774

Jauja ' - • '

698

Joux lake

879

laxartcs rlvar *

482

Joyeufe entr^, or Magna Charta of

Ibagiie

707

the Netherlands

136

Ibex animal ^

283

Ireland

of Italy
Ibis, bird, Egypt deferted by

805

called Scotia by monastic

\ ,

writers

lea -

after called Erin

ib.

;

Ice palace on the banks of tht Keya

158

the chief tribes mendoned

Iceland

849

by Ptolemy

ib.

Icolm kill ifland

imports and exporu of

109

(

Ida mount

327

union with England

Idolatry of the Arabs

486

New ,

of the Hindoos

422

Irghis river ' -

of the McKicans

572

Itkutflc

flat

Iduhcda mountains

267

foreft

Jedbure

Jedo, the capital of Japan, 63 miles

Iron mines of Anfpach

»»y

:i 1

of Arabia

494

'! k

circumference

385

of Mount Atlas

760 ^

: 5

Jedogawa river

888

of Auftria

180

Jenne

-«^-

ofCarrun

Jerfev ifle
Jerufalem

of China

863

S94

of Elba ifland

809

' '.'

Jefan mountain •

888

of England

Jeflb ifland

879

of France

134

Jefters of Ireland

104

of Hanover

393

Jews, a fwth part of the population

of Japan

890

Prague

178

•f Ireland

113

Ikentid or Ikneld, a Roman road

of Luzon ifland

509 '

llak

472

ofMaflachufet's

SCO

Hay ifland *

of the Netherlands

140

J '

Ildefonfo S. palace *

304

of Norway

94r j

400

Hi river

869

ofPegu

Ilinifla mountain

672

of Portugal

368

l<-

Jmandra lake

154

of Ruffia

15t

•fl

Ii.iaus mountain

431

of Scotland

Imeritia

ib.

of Siberia -

158

Incas of Peru

693

of Sicily

806

India iieyond the Ganges

890

of Spain •

3!1

Ocean

•f Stiria •

180

Eaft, Company

of Sumatra

498

Weft Indies

658

of Sweden

360

Indians, American, mannvrs of

656

' of Swiflerland

983

Indigu of Hinduftan

434

ofTibet

878

Indus river - S20. 439

of the Tyrolefe Alps

177

Infants cxpofed in China

855

of Wurtcnilierg

397

' M

Inflammable eartli of Perfia

470

bridges of Cokbrook dale and

Ingoldftadt univerfity

297

Sunderland

InUney ifland

Iniftranul *

114

or buld mountains

542

native, mafsof, in Ia Plata

689

Inifture ifland

ib.

Iroquois

658

Inn river

176.296

Imwady river

398

■•

iuquifition of the Spanifli fettlements

Irrigation praftifcu 'n China Proiier

360

I m

of America

573

in Italy

801

Infpruck univfrfity

17a

in the Milanefe

311

iHtendants, Spanifli »

563

in Perfia

468

Inverary

in Piedmont

310

Inverncfs

Irtlfli river

841

■

the chief refide^ce of til

>•

Ir«ell river

Caledonian king*

Ifchia ifland •

804

f ?

4obi ifland

514

Ifeo lake •■ >

801

i i
1 '

Jodo river

888

Ifer river

396

J|»haSt.,d*Ullo*iflu4

599

Ifinglafs made of the founds or air-

rlwr

««

bladder of the ftuigaoB

lildnai

1 J

$i6

INDEX.

liklrpo* of Labrador
Upajan
^Hel river
Iflim vivpr

ftepof ,

Jftaliar

Italy, ftatesof
Jteliiii river

Juan San, ie Frontena
tic los Llanos

Fernandes ifland

St., -river
Judda
Jujuy

Julian, orCarnic Alps
Jalin city-
Jumna river
Juniifejioii ifland
Ivora

Jupiter Ammon
Jura illand

mount
Jurjura mountain
V Jury, trial by in England
Jute», arrival in England
Jutu ritf land
IstaccUiuall mountaia

704

67c

Kaiia, or temple of Mecca

Kabra

kaffers

Kalmucks

{peciiuen of tlielt poetry

Kandal Stcig lake

Kandi

KaDgaroos of .Van Dicmeti's land

of N«w Holland .
Karai um, or the Black SandDefert
Karek ifland .

Karta - "

Karm ifland
KalBna
Kaviar, preparation of the faked roe

of dried fifli - lJ<

Keen Ducm river
Keeps, or towers of Saxon caftles
Krnlake
Kennebec river
Kennet river
Kent, kingdom, founded by the

Saxons, in 460
Kergueiaw's land
Kt-rman

Hcfcrt
Kerunlake
K«fem

Kefliip Dag mount
Kcflio

Kettorin - * ;

Kew garden -^ -

Khvi<m

Khiva - "

Kbiab •> J .

PAGE

6:, 5

4fi0
200
4H-2
475
4.V)
299
ft 4
676

.707
74i
619
490

. 6S3

J77

18 t

4129

411

266,

380

IJO

759

625

490
774
766
47 5
337
2S3
448
SIS
511
468
471
367
248

1.3.39

898

555

IJ
769
463
407
755
490
327

'^:

♦77

ib.
463

Kiactua • .

Kian Ku river ■

KiL'lciinal

univerfity

Kilan -

Ki!da, or Hir(a ifland

Kill:c'iiiiy

K'iliarnoy lake

Kiililliiioris

Kinjos, a nation of dwarfs in
IMadagafcar

King of England, his fiinflions and
title

Coronation oatlu

Kingilon on Hull

in Jamaica

Kinkittao - .

Kiiuukulle mountain

Kiiil'ale

Kiou Long, or Maykoung river

Kiow

Kireagateh

Klrguflcs, or Kaizaks
three hords of

Kiruj Ou!a

Kithma ifland

Kifliur harbour -

Kilbia river

Kiuflii ifland

ISizilO/eii, or Refid Roud river 31

KniflincaMx

Kofez mountains

Koh Zcrdeh, or the yellow moun-

(aitis - , . -

Kohcnliz, or ancient caftle of

Bokhara
Koleii mountains
Koiyvan - n

Kom, or Khums
Kongflierg
Konigiberg

univerfity
Korakas

Koran of the Turks
Koreifliitrs

Korpmantec flaves -

Kotlan, or Khotlan
Kotun

Koiifis « ^

Kieuk river
Kuila river
Kuma river -

Kumri mountain
Kur river

Kurdlflan mountains •

Kurds

Kurilian iflands •

Kuroti mountain '••

Kutiore -

Kymman river •

Labrador
Lii/c^dive iflantb

36S

319

243
241

480

109

655

763

il:
4*3
662
367
345
109
413
141
324,
475

u<.

367
471
309
430
37!4
9.466
65.5.
468

467

484
34A.
a-i3
463
246
18%
ib.
762
216
489
761
486
367
765
463
775
319
773
319

45a

323
34»
337
457

64ft
451 '

Ladoga

N D E X.

8r7

PAGE

MOE

La<1oga canal • ' '

150

Lariflan ^

45S ' ''

Ladrone iflaiids

520

LafTa .

374 i

Lahore

« '

441

Lauenberg

5
393 'n

Ukfa

490

Laurence St., gulph »

537 i

Lakes of Cumbe rla nd

river

541 . !

of Ireland

3 10

Lauricoclia river '

669

Scotland

Laufanue

376

LemaLnon itiuuiitain

751

Law martial, of England

Lainbayeque - -

'698

Laws of the United States of America

547

l^mbey

illand

114

of the Birman empire

394 f

Xiampa

ere

of China Proper

35J !5

lamurech ifland

-«|^

of Denmark

338 vt

Lanark

of England

I^ncaftei

* - • •

of Himionait

423 '

Duchy court

of Holland

S2i

Lantfam,

or Lantfau

413

of Ja]>aa •

OS'i

Lindisfarn iile

of f*ortngul .

263

Land's hei;;l)t mountain

556

ofPruiha %

IbQ

Lanpirus

harbour

525

of RufTia

144

Lanfiall mountains

ai5

of Scotland

Language of North Amerce a

516

of Siam

40Ci

of Norili Anieritan Imilans

055

of Spain

lOS

of the United Sidics of

ofSivil^erland

273

America

548

of Turkey in Europe

217

cf the Arabs

488

Lead mines ol Si.a!,i>h South America

6BS \

of the B.rman en piie

096

of A.tbia

494

of tlie Ihuliarians

480

ofAuftria

180

of C^anatia

643

o: i^inylaud

of China Proper

056

ol France

133

of Denmark

240

of Hanovf

293

of Egypt

753

of Hcffia

ib.

of JiHijlaud

U'J

' " ^T.iaica

CC3

its affinity to the

?jt ti.c Milancfe

aii

Trciicli v^ Dutch j7'.

ifNe.vLeon

6;).-.

«f tl>c Eutopciin nations

ib.

of I'erlia

470

of France

121

of Portugal

208

of (lermany

290

ofPruflia

193

of H indoAan

424

of Sa!/.ia

298

■'■.

of New Holland

of Saxony

291

•f Japan

085

0''Seoikud

«f Ik land

105

of Siiim

411

of Maluya, or Malacca
of the MdU'lfliin-s

40)

of Siberia

847

067

of Sicily »

306

of Mexiro

5S5

o\ Siiina:^ur

440

of the iMongiils

o37

of Sivcileri

260

of the Nctluilauds

1!.? ■

of SwlH'ciLud

283

ofPeifia

46Q

of Tibet

378

«)f Ponugal

265

of tl\e Tyrolcfe Alps

1/7.

of lluiria

140

l.>d, red, of Siberia

047

=,. ,

of Scotland

Lebanon, or Libanus mountain

037

of Siam

408

Lecco lake

001

of Spain

201

Lech liver

296

of Sweden

'ii^

Leek river - -.

339

of Swiflcrland

275

Lee river « •

54 .

of the Tatars

307

Leech lake

556

of Tibet

374

Leeds

of Tuikcyin Afia

023

Leeward iflauds •

659

oftheUzbtVa

480

Lcige bilhoprlck ■

39S

^nguedoc canal

127

Leine river

29a

Lai.o lake

503

Leipfig •

39(»

Laos

m m

413

Lemburg

179

Lapis caliminaris of England

Lemming, or Norwegian noufo

346

339

LcmnoB ifland

iia*

Danifli

ib.

Leinou Sands «

SMrediOi . -

a54

Lena river -

84d

Uii«<«

•

674

8i8

INDEX.

/■

PACE

FAGS

Leon, and cathedral *■ .

203

Livorno, or Leghorn

30S

Leoo Keoo illands

863

Loadftone, mountain of, near Chihuah

ua637.

Leopards ufed in HindoAan for the

in Siam

411

chafe of antelopes

435

Loango

762

Levant, or Turkey trade

325

Lobel mountain

177-

Leuis iiland

Lo<'arno lake

301

Lewes

Loch Doleii lake »

Leyden

231

Levenlake —

ib.

Leyt ifland »

503

Loil lake

Leyilia river

161

Lomond ■ -

ib.

Library, ruyal, of the Birman empire
of iVlSS. at Cairo

396

Nefs

ib.

601

LocuiU eaters in Arabia

494=

at Conflantinople

219

Lodonieria

173

at Philadelphia

549

Lofibden ifland

S4»^

UgUTian republic

313

Loire river

129

Lima - - «82.696

Loja

692

Limttourg

108

Lombardy

lag

Limerick -

107

Lombek ifland - 49;

'. 501

Limroac river

278

Lon river

Lincoln - - ^

London in thetimeof theFaft Saxons

Linen manufaAory uf Ireland

108

maintained hs Roman emi-

of Scotland

nence

linga

403

churches of

Linth river

278

environs of

ih.

Lion of Arabia

494

Londondfiry

lor

ot AbyOinia

752

Long Forty fanda

of Perfia

469

ifland

561

of Tunis

758

Lord's jjrayer Dutch

31)0

of Turkey in Afia

329

Finnifli

240'

LIptri iilands

303

Frific

il.

(loves, or warm caves

307

Irifti

105

Lipea

675

Liulandic
Grkncy Norfe

240

Lippe

295

LUbon, the ancient Uiyflippo

265

Saxon

3!J

If •*■

Lifle

125

Scotland Erfe, or Irifli

Littnture of the United Sutes uf

Lowlands

Ih.

Americ*

548

Lorenzel mountain

177

•f Arabia

488

Lotus of Kgypt

756

of Auftria

171

Loti^li Neagh

110

of the Birman empiie

396

Louifburg

646

of Great Bucharia

4 HO

Louifiana - 536

. 507

of Denmark

240

Lom-en river

244

of England

Lucca

808

• of France •

123

Lucerne lake

27«*

ofGermany

290

Lncie St. ifland »

663

of Hindoflan

425

Lucknow - •

«J9

' ofHolUnd

2:)0

hills

432

of Japan

3RS

Lueano lake • •

aoi

of Ireland

lo:,

Luis dc Potofi

631

of Madagafcar

768

Lunden univcrfiiy ■

254-

of the Netherlands

137

Lundy ifle

of Perfia

460

Luiiobcrif

293

ot Portugal

265

Lupata mountains, or fpine 1 the world 776

ofPruflia

188

LuxemlMJur);

139

ofRi Tia

149

Luzon ifland

502

of Saxony

290

Lynfiord creek 1

944

ol Scotland

Lyons - ' • •'^,

las

of Siam

409

or Spain

301

, tS,,

cf Sweden

054

ATA

' ofSwiflerland

975

Macao • ■

964^

of tlie TaWt

067

Macaa • •

709

f Jttfrroor* iOan^j •

114

MaAan ifland

Liverpool • •

Madacafcar, ifland of «

707

Livers of ^cele aflcmcd i delicacy
at Vienn* •

Madder of Hindoflan

434

17fl

Made in, Ifland of -

771

Madraa

1 >r D JE X.

819

. ;

I>AGE

»AOK

ilddras

446

Marburg univofity

294

Madrid

202

Marcou St., ifland of

105

Madura ifland

497

Mareb

494

ISIaandfir river

i326

river, faid to fink under ground

752

Macftiicht

231

Marechites, a favage tribe in New

Mafumo river

765

Brunfwick

645

MagadafliO' -•

766

Mftrengo, noted for a vi<$toi7 »f

Magdalena river - 67

1.710

Buona[nirte over the Anftrians

Mas;dcbur(;

189

Mareotis laks

755

Rfagic o{ Africa

763

Margarita - -

717

Ma{>-icians of Madagafcar

768

Margus, or Margab river

466

Magna charta •

Maiian iflands

520

Maguefi, orMagnefla *

024

Maiiaiia river

617

Mah<S ifland

769

Marino, St. - ^ -

309

Mahomet, his tomb ut Medina

499

Mariquila

707

Maliumetan rellgiun

U16

Miiritz river

222

Majorca iflnnd

212

Marmot animal

282

Makauitg, or Maykanny river of

y76

of Italy

305

Makian ifland

501

Marquefas illanJs

522

MaYLAYA, or MALACCA

402

Maniages of the Abipons

740

Malacca city

403

in China Proper

355

peninfula of

il:

laws of, difregarded in

Malagi^

2 'J 2

France

123

Malayan ifles

404

of Hindoftan

424

Malays, their progrefs to diffcreut

of New Holland

510

iilands

403

of the Japanefc

384

of Sumatra •

490

of Pcrfia

460

Maldives iflaiids

♦Jl

in lulfm

14S

Mdlea nil untaiii

4S0

in Scotland

Maleg river

7 SI

in Siam

409

Mallicollo iflaud

616

in Simiatra

500

Malouin iflfS *

7ia

in Tibet

074

MalRrotn whirlpool

217

in Turkey

318

Malta ifland

ao7

Marfcillrs

125

Mammoth

S59

Marta, Santa

709

Mail, ifle of -

6.S

St. .Sierra, Nevada of

673

Manati of America

.'>59

Maitabii'i

39s

or mermaid of the (Iraightt

Muriin St., ifland, South America

741

of Ueei'ini;

.146

Martinique, ifland of - 068,664

Mauchcflcr

.39

Mafkat

490

Mandiiigos negroe-i - •

701

Mafllure at Didhi by Nadir Shah

439

fliivis fii culled

(/•.

Malfagotts

M&iidfhurs

U65

Muflart mountain

049

Mandeville, Sir John, one of ih«

Matavia harbour

515

earlitft writer* of Englllh

Matliiua Corvinuj king of Hungary,

prtfe

diariiAler of

167

Mangulore

41)

Matthew, St. ifland of

770

Maiizenace* fiver •■

202

Muturu

449

Manhciia • • ,

296

Matiritimi iflands

76» ,

(xtaniana « -

774

Maxiuut ('(ctarienfis

Maitilla, or I'liilippine iQaiuU

602

Maygue river

099

Man>ier». Set- CJuiloms

Ma^ondtan

4.^J

Montua

ai2

mounlaini)

467

Manulailurc't. S< e Commerce

Maync river

286

Maouiia illaud

,ViO,527

Mecca - •

489

Maple fufjar of the l?nhi'<l S:atj < of

temple of • •

tY..

America

5 -.2

Mechoai an

605

Maps, ancient, in the Hrililh Mufcum AO<l

Me klcnburg Sclmerin, andGuilo

294

Mar hank

Meder mountains

467

Majacayho - 710,717

Mediator, the idea of in Japan

asi

lagoon of

66(1

1 Medical fchools of Scutlaixi

7»

^f aranon , or river of the AmotonH

C69 Medina

489

Maravi lake • - .

77<

> MrdltfTmnrnn fca of Afi4

S. 31H

ftltrbic, I'arkn -

224 Megula, mountain} of

758

of I'ucbia

6a G Mejrrda river

M«rl)1ei and free flon« in England

6i Metnant river ■

411

u r. a

CI nam

$29

IN D E X.

rASE

■

rAoe

Meinatn Koag tlret

412

Mfaiera

cgy of Chili *

72 a

Mckran

•

4S3

of Denmark

346

moutitUBS

•

469

of Egypt

755

Mekdiid rivir

•

46S

of the iae of Elba

309

Melinda -

•

7««

of England

Men, wild oPMtlaya

•

403

■«

of France -

1.03

Menai (Iraiglit

of < ;rarada New

71«

Mvnanj^ C!al)Oii

498

of Hanover *

293

Menanff (. abul

•

t*.

of Hebudes

Meiid Wvcr >•

•

465

ol Himloflan

435

Mendi)) hills

•

of New Holland

511

Meiidoza •

076

. C83

of Ja]ian

369

ides

50'i

, of Ireland *

112

river

671

of M.tda;:a'"car

767

Mentei.li, IaIp of

oftbe Netherlands

140

Mentz, elef^i rate of

993

of U Plata

687

Menzali lake

•

75«

ofPfrfia

470

Mercia, ivt i^dom i>f, founded by the

of iVrn

702

Ead ADt;Ie»in585

of Portuj^al

867

Merida

563.600

•

of Pruffia

>92

Sirrra Nevada of

672

ofllullla

158

Mrrimac river

555

of Iluifia in Afia

347

Men e illand

757

ot Sa'zia

29f

Meiley river »

of Saxony

391

Meiiina

no6

of Sc. iland

Mcfur.ita

758

of the Scottifli iflca

MciluHlifts, iiicrrare of in

England

of Siam ' -

411

Alcufe cr Maeie river

226

of Sicily

30«

forms a 'ai'f;p lake

, overwbcbn-

of S|iain

211

itii; 7'i vlll,igeb\

mh 100,000

of Swetlcn

359

inltalntants

ib.

of Swilfcrland ^

262

Mexico, or Ntw Sj.ain

563

of Tatary

870

v\\y

•

5()0

■■,

of InJepcndt-Ht 1 ataxy

483

luke of

5</2

of Tibet

378

, New

563

.638

of Tunis

75«

Mextit'au

6o3

ofTtirkey

923

Miacu

385

wf Turk* y in Afifc

32"*

Minnii riv«r

•

554

ofTufiany

30S

iVlKhcl St., iflaiid

269

of Wurteniburp

997

Michigan lake

508

Minerals

waters of Snanifli North

ilraii;ht

ib.

America

407

Micnmct aik Indian tribe of Nova

ofthel'iiitedStates

Stuiia

646

of America •

A60

Midflleburp?

9.il

of Arabia

49t

Ntw

7.J8

of Aullria

181

Mi^utl !^au

68.1

of Epypt

7i7

Milan

311

of Krij^land

Milin, wind or water, none in Arabik

4()0

of Franco

134

Minilitn:!') liland

50 J

-■

of li.ndoflan

436

Aliiuifrrivt-r

336

of •lil|illlt

u90

Mimic in) in.iii'l

.H)l»

of Pcrfia

470

Wiuerald^yof Spanifli North America

6a 1

•

of Portujjal

•ii»

111" Spaiilh Sniih Axni-rica

687

of Prul'ia

103

ot South America, uiinual

ol UnlTia

158

prothiA

698

... ■

. f HufTia in Afia

348

• of the United States of

of Scotland

America

560

of .S|mln

VI 1

of Arabia

494

ol Sv*f<lcu

260

of Atdlria

17«J

of Swjflt iland

Utt*

; uf Davaiia and tlit Pa!au>

oflibet

374

iiaie

a 06

of Turkey in Afia

3J<)

. "■ af ibe niritiui cmi'ira

4li0

^f inho rlxrr

207

i.r nr..;.il

7ii6

Miiiilb i

iland

11)

•f Canada

044

Miuong

•• «•

>u«

llf O) lull

•

450

Minorca illauJ f

919

cfUiiia

d«a

Miois UIm • •

'J44

MUCdii'i'i

I N D E 3C»

821

V I

rAGK

.v ■

rtoK

Mimnippi rivCT

53 «

Mulda river

i 176

291

MiiT'ouri rirer •

ib.

Mules ot Spain

•

211

I^M'a, ruins of

571

Mull ifland

Mocaranga

766

Munihoi, Canibals of Africa

777

Mofha

490

Munich

396

Mocdbj •

7-^)9

Miinniporah

• 397

.440

Moouas • »

766

Murcia

•

20*

?•^'lVna - «

813

Mus Tag mountun

483

M< ■'■"it wells in Scotland

Moorfhcdaltad

439

r/iolmwkii

^SS

Muik of Independent Tatary

474

Mukant\iTii ifland

349

cattle

•

»59

Moldavia, a jwirt ofancient Dacia

21a

drer

377

Mole river - •

■welels

435

Molucca ifloa - 497

. 504

Mvfol ifland

505

M'lluclies •

740

Myfory .Ifland

514

Monchabno

•397

Mjthologv of Hindoftan

422

Mnndego river

267

■ of thf D

aiiiii' Laplanders

239

Money, the exceflive love of iu Holland -i-ig

of Pagar

1 Rullia

143

Mongulii - 036

.366

Mjtileue ifland

939

Monopolies Royal in Spain

205

Mons

liJ8

Motifia ifland

769

Moiifooiis of HiiidofUn

427

Nab river

•

296

Montagu jjort

515

Ntircigdtiches

•

608

Montevi leo •> 676

. 68']

Magat'aki

» m

«86

Montczunin river

598

Na((old river

297

MoiitjM>i'ier

126

Nagpour

•

444

I^Iunireal

643

Mamur

•

138

Montrufe

Nankin

•

357

rittt

Nantes

•

126

Mont d'Or

130

Naples and Sicily

30S

M'^ntferrat

208

Naphtha, or fountains of pure rock oil

470

ifland

€6i

raeilitufl qualities of

471

Mnnuiiieni oJ London

417

Naphthonia ifland

47t

Moorilh rwmaiiii in PuTtugal

Sbd

Narin river

489

Moofe deer

55<>

Narva river

154

fort

650

Naifau

29*

rirer *

651

foi t in the Balutnu

664

M(K)t hi Is *

hall

m • •

549

Morud river • »

025

Ulandt

• •

500

Mnrot lalcc ■

«79

Natal

76$

Muraii river •

176

Natchez river

■ •

617

Morava river >

922

NatioiiHl debt of Great Britain

Morocco •

759

Nairon lakes in Egypt

755

Mofcow •

149

Naiuna ifland

• •

497

canal

150

Nauhcani'Htopttl mountain

Modes of « onrtaiilinople and Adri»

Navigation, iulanU, of China Proper

357

1 anoiile

990

of Detiuiark

94a

at (.'urdova

196

of Kn^r'and

Mittala river •

357

of France

196

Motir ifland

505

of Hindoftan

420

Moultan

457

of Holland

931

^Quuuins, Ohi. (in chains of

•

of Ireland

lot

of China Proper

of ihcNeiherland

1 139

^ » «f England

}«

„

lie^k<nrd in Pruflla 1 90

. >. . of Kurope

of Rullia

150

i of Kraiiie

of Scotland

< of Inland

111

ol" Spain

91)4

. «l the Netherlands

ia<)

of S>ve<len

25»

ofKtiOia

155

Navi;'>tor'i* Ifland*

a2S

of Scotland

«5

Na*y of tli#> United Slates of Ammra 547

of Wales

oi Urnntnrk

9aN

Ndmil Hanfji rivtl

«)f F.ntilniid

Mi»rtHy ifliutd •

«f France

19t

M<i/iiiiiliaxc r

tee

of tlnpan

nsn

^JuzuinliU'tt m

«.

of iVr^ia

•

45t

« G n

Navj

832

INDEX.

Navy of Portugal

of Pruflia

ofRuflTia

of Siam

of S|j&in

of Sweden
Nazal ^

Necker river - - 287

Neged defert
Negro colonies, the defolation to be ex-

peiSed from
N«>£^opont ifland
Neiper the ancient Boryfthenes
Neiva

Nelfon river ' - 541

Nemakas

tribes - - "61

Little
Nemi lake
Nerbudda river
^.crfhiidk mountains
NETHEittANDs, the ancicHt IkJgIc

Gaul
Neva river

Nevada Sierra mountain
Nevado of Toluca
Neufchatel lake
Nevil's crofs
Nevis, ifland
Nfuiidler lake

Newcaftle upon Tyne -

Newfoundland fifhery banks

ifland
I^cwry canal
Niagara falls

fort
Nicaragua
Nicara^^pia hke

may be made a mrans
r- . of r(>mraunicationbe•

;! ' 7 ' tween the Atlantic

and Pacific oceans
mouAtaini
Nickel mines of England
NicobHT Jflands
Nicofia

Nicoya, Pesrl fifliery
Niemi lake arid mount^iia
Nieftcr or ancient Tyrui
Nieuport in the Netherlands
Nieuveld ntounlain •

Niger river •

Nile river - •

fouTcc of

various names •

catarafls of
inundsiion only partial
real caufcs of
Nimcn river

Ni|x>u ifland • •

Nirgiui ? ■

Nine of ihc N. of Aftrtcan •
NiMbrva ifland ■ -

Nogafa river • ■

NoirmoULiertflaud •

Nord kiu^'iug r r

PAGE

.■■■"-"'

PAOK

364

Nordflrand ifland

348

187

fwaHowcd up by an

147

inundation

• il;

407

Norman conqueft of Englaiid, monu-

199

ments of - - 16, 17

253

North Foreland

619

North-wf ft company

651

.296

Norway. See Denmark

234

485

Norwegian Alps

Nonvic'h -

245

661

Nou Kia river

076

224

Novogorod

141

154

Niibl*

757

707

Nueces river - >.

617

. 651

Nuremhurg

298

761

Nutnirg trre and fruit

507

. 765

refttifled by the Dutch

765

tofianda

506

801

introduced into the Ifland

4^0

of Mauritius

769

a43

pf New Britain

51S

135

154

^ '

209

Oiifls of Mount Sharoar

495

4i3t

Oaxaca r -

563

279

town

604

Ob river - • aj9

.040

66.3

Obftrvatory at Greenwich

176

Ochili mountains

8:i

Ochotflj

039

647

mountains

042

646

Oder river

191

108

Oefel ifland

159

655

Oflak ilknd

514

643

Ohevaltoa rinr

52 U

564

Ohio river

541

620

Ohitialioo ifland

523

Ojingawa river

aes

Oitz lake

il:

Olclion ifland

319

Oldenburg

395

622

Oleron ifland

135

OLmutz

173

404

Olonet/ mountain

156

n31

Olooiong illand

520

604

Olympus moiint

087

358

Ombrone river

008

l.';4

Oraey illand

114

138

Omon

490

764

Onega lake

154

773

Oneydas
Onoia>ack

655

746

997

773

Onon liver ■ •

Obg

746

OiiondagHS »

655

lb.

Oomi river • ■

088

755

Opal of Hurgsry '

181

7, SO

()]>iiir mount - • '

498

154

Opium, ufe of In Tnrkey

•J19

079

OjKirto

Ubi

ri7

Opoun ifland • •

A80

039

Orange river •
Onuiia ifland • *

ft'ja

^1.

088

Oreo river, caftadc of

010

135

Ordeal, trial by, «nong(\ th« Binrani

1 94

fl>»

Ore (tada

Or^{■ft

INDEX.

823

PAGE

VAOB

Oregan river

654 Pao

716

'Orenburgh - -

338 Papefqniero

619

Orinoco riter

670 Papua, or New Guinea ifland

513

Orizava - -

601 Papyrus of Egypt

756

Orkney iflands

96 Para

735

Orleans

126 Paraguay - - ■

676

canal

ib, Paracels iflands

413

fortft

131 Paraiba

735

New

540 Paramaribo

738

Ormus ifle - - 440.471 Parana river

670

Orontes rirer

326 Pardoforell

209

Oropefa

683 palace

204

Orulhna

47 a Paria

675

Omro

675 Parima mountains

673

Ofacca

383 river and lake • 668

.671

Ofnal)urg bifliopric

293 Paris

124

Ofruftma

480 Parliament of England

Ofteu<l

138 Parma and Placentia - 311

.313

Oilon»de

292 Parnamboco

735

Otaheite

523 Paropamifus

453

Oul)i ifiand

505 Parras lake

621

•Oviedo

203 Parrys mine of copper in An^lefey

Oujein

4)9 Parl'ees or Guebers, worlhippers of fire

457

•Ouk mountain

468 Paffo del Norte

607

.Ouller, or Tal lake

431 Patagoi'ia -

740

Ourang OuUng

502 Pataiii kingdom

403

of Angola

763 Patiia

439

of the Sircars .

435 Patomac creek •

550

>Oufe river

41 river

556

'Owhyhee ifland

521.523 Patzcuart) lake

621

OxarArtl river

249 Patrick S:., pur:;atory

113

(Oxford colleges and tlieir founders

34 Pauda muunialn

156

•Onus river

482 Pavia

311

■Oyulava iflund

526 Paul St., London

Pavoacan

770

P ,

Paz. la - - 676. 6Sd

Payta

692

Pacific ocean

a Peacock of Ceylon

450

Paciycs

676 Peak of Derbylliirc, wonders of

Pacliucta

601 Pearls of ihc ille of Bahriu

494

Pada-borii bifhopritk

295 of tlie Born-an iflands

503

Pagjihm

397 of Ceylon

450

Pagodas - •

35; ofPcrfia

470

of China •

051 of Saxony

391

' Poimin^, progrefs of, in England

33 of Scotland

Pain«'y '

7 8 Pvafanu of Rulfia, their condition

146

Palatinate. See Htt\-ar!a

Pegu

397

Pttltrmo

3o6 river

399

Palicaud •

4«4 Pitjendlake

238

Pa'tuer lake

170 Pckin

3S6

Pallsiifcr mountain

177 Pticw idands

519

Palm wiiir of Africa

761 Peliirs, dethroyed by an earthquake

708

Paliiia ill.kud

771 Peling idind

504

Palinarula ifle

307 Pemba illand

767

Palmyra

32 2 Pembroke

PamiMK plaliu of Buanot Ayiet

673. 6; 7 I'cnabfirot river

555

Indians •

681 Pcpdalnria ifland ■

307

Pampolona

203 Pendlehill

Pamperos a dcftruAtve wiud in South P«!iinii;ent mountain

ib.

America

681 Pepper of Sumatra

499

Panama

7 OS twenty-two fiKciei in Sptnifli

.Paiti illand -

503 South America

701

'Paiijah river

4 '2 9 Perdu mountain

131

l*aniany

445 Perfaia

397

Panther of AbylHiua

75a Pcriepolis, ruins of - 433.45.1

Pttauco river " «

619 Pkmu

450

3U 4

rcrfiiit

S24

INDEX.

I'erfia, £jul|>l\ of
Eartcrn
t^ Perth

Peru, viceroyalty of
Peruvian hiilory

PACE

ih.

77
6go
C93

Pefliiciice, ftoppeci in its progrefs from
Coiiftantinople by the hsat of

Egypt - - 754
Peter the Great, his defiqn of uniting

. the Don wiih ihe Volga 150

Peterhead - - 7«

miueraJ water - 90

Peterfburg - - 14()

Petfiiora river - ISI

Peyptis lake - ' - 155

Phafis river of Ptolemy » 450

Philadelphia - - 550

Philippine iflands - 502

Philofophical foeiety of Pennfylvania 549
Phoenicians fuppofed to have heen the

firil difeoverers of the Britifl) Ifles 10
Piapis harhour - - 511
Piavi rivet - 301
Piazitilko lake - • 342
Pieardy, canal of - 12«
Fichincha mountain • 672
Piro, or the Peak ifland - 2')9
Piai applied by 13ede to Scotlaud 66
Piedmont - - 310
Pigeon, great crowned, of New Ire-
land - - 515
crowned , or gigantic of Papua 514
Piombino - - 309
Pifa . - 30S
Pittl iflirid - - 500
Piura - - 692
Placcntia - - 313
in Newft'undland 647
PlafTey, battle of - - 438
Plata la, river - 541. 5/6
la, viceroyalty of - 674
Platte river - 617
PUtten fee - - 176
. Plau lak« - - 2^-7
Fltiflerver - - 201
• Ploroh till CantttI mountain 130

Plumbago, or black lead mines near the

' ■ baihj of Binuy * - 310

Po river - - 80O

J*o F( rinrdii ifland - 770

Popey iflandt - - 500

PoifinoiiR aiiiinaN, none in Ireland 03S

Pola ifltttid - - 526

PoiANO - - 167

PoLVNF.su - - 518

Polztvefa - - S14

Poinerania, Sivcdifh •• 360

Pomont • - 96

Pondi( lurry - - 424

Puntc de Dioa - - 637

Ponza ifland - - 307

Pooiia - - 447

Poorumler - r il>.

I'opayai) - - 708

pope, territory of the - ao7

ro|wcatruetl niuuiitait^ * 6*.'. 5

that

Population of Abyflinta - 749

of Africa - 742

of America - 534

of the Sparjifh N. America 574

Ancient - 57 1

of the Spaniftj S. America 6f 9
of South America impeued

by the fmal-pox 575
of the United Slates of

America -? 547

«f Aral>ia - 485

of Afia - 315

of Aiiflria - 169

of the Birman empire 394

of Canada - 642

of ("eylon - 44 8

^ of China -? 353

•f China Proper - ib.

of Denmark - 238

of St. Domingo ■* 660

of Egypt - 753

ok Englatid - 27

of Europe » 5

of France - 129

of Germany - 285

of Granada, New >05

of Hindvftan - 423
of the Britifli jiofTeflions in

fjangetic Hindoftan 43f

of Holland - 329

of Jamaica - 662

nf Japan - 382

of Ireland - 103

of Ualy - 800

of Iyin<lon • 36

of Aiilan - ni

of Naples - 300

of the Netherlands - 136

of F'nris - 125

of Prriia - ■ 452

of r. ru -, 69(i

of r.irto n.ico - 66!»

of l\>rln>;al - 264

of Tiuflia - 1«?

of Ruftia - 144
of the UulTian empire in

Afm - 335

of Saxonv - 2S9

r of Scotland - 72

of vViani - 407

- , of Siberia - 335

•' of S(.ain - 198

of Sweden - 05'2

of SwlfTerland - 97*

of I atary - 365

of Independent Tatary 474

of Tibet - 37 J

* of Turkey iti Afia 322

of Ttirkey in Eunijw 218,217

of Vienna - l('«l

Porro . - 675

Porcupine, the crefted - 30"

Horn Vl»ift-hir ifland • . 349

Port Royal, Jamaica ■ **'

PorttT, Knjjiifh • - 80

Pwtol3elte • 704. 709

INDEX.

^iS

JAGE

l*ortoCaveno - ,716

Pf'ito Rir<^ iflaml - 663

Porto Santo .flan4 - 771

Portftnomh - 40

Portlby - " 78

ifland - il>.

Portugal - 262

hiftorical epoch* - ib

Potofi - - 675. 682

Poyanhou Iak« - 061

Praxes mountain » 177

Pioine - - 397

Providence ifland » 664

Prufa - > 324

mineral water of ^ 329

Prussia - - 183

hiftoiifal epochs of 184

Ptarmigan hhi of Scotland - 89

PuJfI;t river - - 430

Puclila do Ids Angelot - S63. 600

Piiekhes - - 723

Pulca 'I hen pyramid - 409

Polawain ifland - 497. 503

Piilieat lake - - 431

Pulo Lam ifland - - 497

Puma, American Lion - 687

Punu - - 676. 683

Pay, rocks of - - 130

Puy de Dome mountains - ih,

Sanli iTKjiiutain > il<.

Pyramids of E^'ypt - 753

Pyrenees - - 13 1

cJ Spain - 208

Quail figluing at Sumatro

Quakrra iu LngAnd

Quan^ton*

Quatlia wood of Surinam

Quchec

Quebracho, a hard tree uf Para-

Ruay
Quedlingburg
Queretnro

Quero deflroyed by an earth-
quake
Quickftlvcr of Auflria

of Great Bucharia

ot Fram e

of Idria -

of the Palatinate >
/ . of Portuj^l

Quilao
Qtiito

of SiM.n

t>f the TjTolcfe Alps

lUab river

lUvhlin lfl.<uid, the Rtvina of

Ptolemy -k

RAckama lake •
Ratrifn <• m

500
20
397
708
643

677
189
602

708
180
463
131
180
295
268

180

766
707

170

114

009
3«4

Rangoon - - 397
Rnnnock moor in Scotland * 89
Raflit - - 46tt
Raza ifland - • , - 92
R^ ifland - , , - 135
Realejo - -> 60*
Red River of Texas - 617
Reformation of England - 15
Rejaiigs of Sumatra - 498
Rein deer of Fmraark atid Lapland 245
of Ruflia in Afia - 346
of Sweden - 259
Heligion of Abyfliniu • 749
of North America 536
of Spaiiifli Norili America 57a
of South America - 667
of the Un.ted Statei of Ame-
rica - 546
of Arabia • 485
of Afia - 818
of Auflria - 16B
of the Birnian empire 393
of Great Uucharia - 479
of Canada * - 648
of Ceylon - 441
of China I'roper - 359
of Denmark - 437
. . of Egypt - 758
of England - iT
of Europe - 6
of France - 120
of Germany - 28*
of Hanover - 29*
of Hindoflan • 422
of Holland - 22»
of Japan - .081
of Ireland • 10*
of Italy « 29»
of Mexico - 57 «
fjf ^'jiples and Sicily - 80*
of Otaheite - 52*
fll' Eallern Perfia - 45?
of Peru - 69«
of Portugal - 26«
of Pruflia^ - 18S
of Riillia - 148
of Ruflia in Afta . .t?*
of Sasony - 29*
of Scotland - 7t
of Slam . 4 OS
of Spain - 19/
of Sweden - 252
of Swilferland - 273
ofTataiy , Q6t
of liidcpcndeut Tatary 47*
of Tibet - 07«
of Turkey in Eurojie 21*
of VVuitemlmrg • «97
llevenuc* of Abyflinia - 749
of Spanirti N. Americft 577
of Spaiiifli S. Anu'i'ica 679
of the United Siutes of

America - 5*7

of Aullria . l«9

of the liirmao empire 094

ot Canada - 642

V Bevcuuee

S25

INDEX.

Kevsenues of China Proper

I'AGE
351

Romfdal horn mountain «

PA«|
244

of Denmaik

238

Rona ifland «

of Egypt

753

Rofa mount

91tt

of Eng and

Rofe port

of France

122

Kofetta

754

of Hindofian

Aii

Roflock univerflty

394

of the Britifh poflefliuns in

Rotterdam

331

Gangetlc liindolUn

437

Roufs lake

279

of Holland

229

Rubicon

901'*

of Japan

363

Rud, or Divrud river

46S

of Ireland

103

Rugen ifland

261

of the Netherlands

137

Runic antiquities in Denmark and

«f Perfia

458

Norway ■^\' -

437

of Peru

69G

Russia

140

of Portugal

26t

hiilorical epochs

142

ot Pruflia »

187

in Afia

331

of Ruffia ■ -

147

Iiiflorical e{)ocln '

S38

of Siara f

407

Ruflian American company

159

of Spain

1Q9

of Sweden

253

B-:. ■

, y-

of Swiflerland

274

Saal river

994

of Tibet

373

Sabia - - '

76»

of Turkey

217

Sabina river . ^ , ^ ■>-

617

Revolution of England 1688

Sable, ifle de ' «

646

Reufu

293

Sables of Ruifla in Afia

346

river

278

Sabres, manufadlure of, at Damafcus

323

RhfEtian, or Tyrolefe Alps

176

Sacaria river

326

Rhine - 226

.286

Saco river

555

Rhinoceros of AliyrTmia

752

Sagalian, or Tchoka, ifland of

370

of HindoOan

435

Saikokf ifland

079

of Sumatra

499

Saima lake - »

958

Rhode ifland

561

Sakai

986

Rhodes ifland

a;jo

Sala ifland

504

Rhone river

129

Salamanca univerflty

201

Rhuburd on the baidis of the Ural

340

Salayar ifland

497

Rhuin ifland

Salem

44t

Ribira

770

Sali river

676

Richboroufi;h callle, tlie ancient Rutu-

Salifljury

pia of the Roman*

Crags, Edinburgh

Richmond gardens

Salonica

320

Riga

Ringing of bells, a peculiar am ufemen

150

Salfette ifland

444

Salt mines of Auftm

179

of England

of Engknd

Rintein univtrfity - •

394

of Wurtemburgh

997

Riobamba

708

mountain of, in Algicr

759

Rio del Norte

617

(Ock of Arabia

494

RiojA

Riphean foreft

Rivers, on the conife of

676

of New Holland

509

136

• of Siberia

348

of Swiflerland

28t

Roads of the Romans in England

of Tilwt

378

Roandrians

768

fprings of Bavark

29C

Rock Angularly poifcd ncu Durham,

Hurk* of Salzia

293

North America

561

SaKa - - 676. 68»

Roe-deer not infrequent in Scotland

Saltee Iflands

114

Roermond

138

Salii)etre mines of Auflria

180

Rohn ifland

506

an imperial trafllc of RuflTia

150

Rom ifland

249

of Spain

905

Rome

008

Sahzburg arcbbifliopric

298

Romans, their progref* in England

Salvador, fan

735

remains in Englan '

Salwatti ifland

514

in France

ISO

Salz or Salzia

9g«

in Germany

284

Salzburg bifliopric

ib.

in Holland

997

Samar ifland

509

in Portugal

•963

Samara » •

938

in Spain •

196

Samnrcand « •

480

in Swiflerland

973

Sambuang

503

•• S»meii»

INDEX.

PAGE

$aiT.eMa mountain - 751

tiamiel, a burning wind of Arabia 491

the hot wind of Perfia 465
ISainos iflaiid - 334. 329

Sainolaia - - 025
^ampoo or Berhampooter river 820. U76

San Antonio de Bejar - 60/

San LuisPotoli - 56!)

Sana - «■ 489
San£la Sophia church at C'onftan-r

tinople - 815 •

@and-banks in the fca - 8
a refi>tt for cod and other

filh - 9

Sandwich ifles <f . . 521

Sanga raonntain •> ' 673

Sangro river - 306

Sangui iflaqri - S04

Sans Souci > 190
Santa F^ - 606. 676

Santa F^ dc Bogota - 70S

Santec river - 526

Santorine, volcanic explofions uf 225

Saribat, or Hcrmus river 326

Saragofia - - 203

Sardinia - - 311

Sardjoo, or Gagra river - 076

Sari - - 462

Sark iflc • 65

Sartarifland - HiS

Saflcafhawin river - 65 1

Satchou river - 411

Sau, or Save river » 176

Savage mountains - •459

Savannaii river - fi>.

Savannahs, what - 55B

Sauzes, Rio de l.oa - 67 1

Saxons in England - 11

Saxon chronicle - 33
hcptantky of Britain, table of 12

s and Angles, antiquities of H

Ji'aft, in England - II

Welt, in England - U:

Saxony - - 2S9

hifturiral ejiochs of 290

Sa^anfk, mountaiip «f 043

Scaljia ifland - 92

ScaliH! r'.ver - ^^^

Scainandcr river - 3'i3

Scaiidinaviun chain - 245

Scaiboroiigh - - 43

mineral watcfs of 63

SchoUl river - li19

Schlangenberg mountain - 3 43

S( hloi mountain - 177

SrtiwARTZBORO, in Thuringia 295

Schweidnit/. - 190

Sciily, ifles of - 63
the Cafliieridei of th«

ancients - »V*.
Scio ifland - 334.829

Soiuia, Nova - 645

Scotland • 66

names of - il'*
names ol the former inha-
bitants, vxtcnt and mme*

of their territories
Scotland, called Caledonia by Tacitus
Piai by Bede
Seotia in the lltli
century
limufemeiits of
climate and feafons of
colonies of
diet of

hiftoriral epochs relating to
errors in Ptolemy's map of
extent of

ecclcfiaftical geography of
progreffive geography of
General Afl'embiy of
import 3 und exports of
improvements in buildings
ntonuments of antiquity in
noblemen and gentlemen's

feats in
number of pariflies in
prefbytery of

union of, a favourable
nteafure
Scylla
Scythians

tlie original inhai>itants of
Turkey ir. Europe
Sea-dog-itfli of the iVIediterr<inean
Seals formerly tamed in Scotland
Sea-ports of the Netherlands
Sea ef A70E
Baltic
Black fea
German, or North
Mediterrai»ea»
White, Quen,.or Ga^avick
Sea water of the Bah ic
Seafons, change of, in Irclaoil
Seceders in Scotland
Secretaries of fiate
Segiilan
Sego

Segulmefla
Seine river
Selinca river
Sfmifat
Sempaf h lake
Senegal river
Sennaar
Sennekas
Seraglio at Adrianople

at Conflantinople
Sergippe
Seiingapatam
Severn houfe, Hudfon's bay

river
Seville

Shagreen, how made •

Shainanifm • •

Shaino defert

Shannon • •

ShaQi

Shatpoorta hills
Sh-iwls of Cafltmer
6heep of Spaitiih South Amcrict

827

PAOB
66
if.
ib.

ib,

70
73
69
6S
66
71
68

75
69

it!,
39

306

331

313

138
7

ib.
ib.

319

. ib.
ib.
109
71
SS
433
774
761
139
341
335
279
773
743
65ft
330
ib.
735
445
65L
53.691
303
339
865
368
110
47a

4»a

443

687
Sheep

S28

INDEX.

• •

PAOB

TAOt

fihsep of AraWa

49a

Silver mines of Spanifh N. Amerif &

631

of AlUJria

179

of Spanifli S. America

668

iniprtwed breed of, In Eng

of Afam

4'i9

«H(i

of Aullria

179

of France

1.13

of Bavaria

296

of Hanover

293

• - .

of Great Bueharla

463

of HimWjflnn

4.T5

of CavavoctUia

a\o

ji rt to be f(>uiifl in Japan

0S!>

of China

36«

of the Kirjjns Tatars

47S

of Cochin China

4l;>

luTjS^e tailed, of I'r rfia

46!>

of Cornwall

313

of Enq;Iand

U>.

of Portugal

2C'7

of France

133

of Ruffia

T^7

of Hanover

293

bmad-tal.'ef!, e)f Rullia in Afia

846

ofHcflia - *

29a

of Scotland

flO

of Jft])au

390

xi!(f, itt Siberia

y46

of Ireland

113

•f S]iali\

211

near JVlcndoza

741

■walks of Spain

210

of Norivay

246

of Tibet

377

of Pej^

400

of Turkey

22.3

of fVrfia

470

of Zaara, tall as fallow iletr

75»

of Peru

702

{Breflield

of Porto Rico ■ -

662

Siie'huvn '

fi-i-i

of Tortugal

269

Sliellif river

75'>

of Potcfi

702

Slreppey iile

0? I'ruflia

19*

Sherifl", his office, by whom chofen, aiul

of Sal/.ia

29S

iu wl»ai Hiaiintr

of Saxony

291

Shetland, fit nation, climate, commerce.

of Scotland

and pof ulatiot) of

of Siberia

047

Shtraz

46t

of Sicily

306

Sliii-es, or counties, Enj^land firft divided

of Spain

211

into, by the great Alfred

of Sweden

260

their government

il:

of SwilTi rland

2&2

SltirTati

45a

of Independent Tatary

483

Shoinndoo pyrsjmid

3'J7

of Turkey

224

ShuKa iflaiid

407

in the Tyrolefe moun-

Sliutia; iiland * -

504

tains

177

SlAM - •

403

of Wnrtemburg

297

city of

409

of New YorW

360

the Sinx of I'tolcmy

409

iHes

520

Mrtorical epochs of

406

Simois river

s «

a22

viik: own to Europe till the Por-

Sinai niount

327

tugucfe difcoveries

il:

Sin<!» tic Hiiuloflan

440

an all.ance witli, an ol-je£l to tlie

Sindi

45?

Engliih

407

Sincan

357

S'tmp«

412

Sinking funt

, its ufe

Siberia - •

uja

Sinna'ah SI

opka, or the Blue Moun>

Sicily. See Napier

tain

343

Sidney TuMrn in Cape Breton

64t)

Sin«o f( ft

m »

362

Siennefe mountains

a 02

Si(ju.)ni

w w

69a

Sicm (le AUii)e mountains

67 a

Sircars

444

de Canaiagudy n.ountwns

Sirhind

..^

441

]>-one, celoay of

7t)'i

Sirian

397

Morena

2U8

Sirtna;;ur

• ••

440

Sierras Nrvedaa of St. Maria and of

Siroero, an enervaiin^r wind of Italy

30O

Merid*

672

Sirr river

U43.

48a

R.hon river

466
76f

or rivi-r

of Shalh

462

8ijelmi(l« •

F.iinjj river

■- 3

il'JH

Sikokf iftand

379

Skulfanda river -

2l'l

Siliftria

2-:0

Skellirrs ifl»n

J14

Silk, the original of the < nrly rlaflics a

iSkey Iflan'l

• .' *

tt2

vepietable proilu^iun

40S

Skiddaw mountain ■

of Afain

4-i')

.'^komar ille

« •

cotton of Sumatra

4')«)

Skyro Hhunl

*• "

22.1

worm "f Pf ni

70'i

Slaiiey iivrr

110

Ailver mines of i>. Amcrlc»

674

b:*ve Ijilt

i» •

6^3

)

INDEX.

S29

filave tnde, comtnenred In 1517
Slavonic tribe of RuHi

Ruffian, Mr. Tooke and Dr
Guthrie's accouui of
Siii^
Sluya

Small-pox, jwftikntial to the indigenes
ul Auierica

remarkably fatal iu Spauifh
Soutit America
Smyrna

6nae(ial mountains
SnaiU eaton at Vienna
bnow remain!! ull the year on the

mountains of Scotland
Snowden mountain
8oBn liver
fiuana river
Society ifles
Soronufco
Siirotra ifland
SoFala
Sofia, city of

Sogdiana

Soif;ne Toreft

Soliman, mountain of

Sollinge Wald toreft

Solomon ifics

Soiigari river

Sonora

S'lnfonate

Sooloo iflands

Sorbonne, khool of, at Paris

Sorclla

Soro river

Soror ifland

Soumi, lake of

Spain

its colonics detrimental to
hilloriral epochs of
New, viceroyahy of
Spanilh Town , Jantaica
Dumiiiiuna
N. America
S. America
8|iarta, the £.ncient fca port of
Spelding. Sc« lake
Spice ifland*

fejzed by the En;;K(h in
1 7<j6,audreUorrd by
the treaty st IHOI
Spices, import of, by the Eaft India

> Company from 17 90 to 17 98
Spire, bi(ho()ric of
Spirituous liquun, the excefllvc ufc

of, in England
6|>iiz - >

Spitsbergen ifland
Sporades
Spree river

Springs, boiling, of Iceland
Stwdiholder, his j>owL'r
Stafia ifland
SudaAiuc caves iu N. America

PAGE

PAOS

761

Stanovoi mountains

04^

141

Siarj^ard

189

Staton land

741

148

Siauntun river

556

107

Stauropol

uas

la^

StefiiKi, San, ifle

Ste]i]><, or level plains of AGatic

307

740

Ruifia

344)

Stettin

189

675

Stinhud.lcr lake

39a '

S'id

Stirling - •:

249

Stoikholra

'2ii

172

Stoitehen^c, not a Draidcal monu-

ment

review of the opinions of

various writws on

4'i9

tliP fupicnie court of tlie

450

tiaiiou

ib.

523

Stoney mountains

54 i

604

Stor lake

257

494

Strallund - . »

c:.5

765

Sivalljourg - •

12(»

220

Sti-umboli volcano

8.03

480

Suiigai'd

207

4.5a

Siiabla

eaa

140

Subaiiicelja river - '*'

43»

/i'jB

Sii!;kliiLn mountains

402

'2BS

Sudctic vhaiii of mountains

177

514

Svtioie More, or Holy Sea

319

068

Stigar-cunc, culiivaceU near Granada

ill

563

Spain

207

604

Bjaplc tree of C'ana'la

644

497

<:{■ tl,o United &tdtci|

1-24

of AniPnoa

55r

643

Si:a-i.-1c, coaimou in New Zealand

516

067

Suir livLT

15*

Q48

Sulilka ifiand

9'i

i}42

Sunuitm ifland

49r

190

Sund)a illaui

ih.

1>)8

Sumi)a\ d iiiHTid

497

1'J4

Sun, Peiuvian tcnijilc of tlie

669

662

Sunda, iflands of, or Suniuiran chain

497

66'J

Sundeibunds of Hindoftaa

406

Superior lake

509

561

Surat

44}

674

Sdrikaria

501

216

Surinam

70s

191

river

Hj.

504

Sufquehaniiah river

556

Swamps, what

557

Sweden

249

508

' - hiftorical e][)Oths of

251

politii-al inipotiancc and relii-

607

tioiis of

253

198

Swedenbourg, Baron, (otMider of a fe

A 21

his ten ts

- ib.

Swincs-flnfti, reafon why iliepoorof

177

Snotlaiiil have an amipathy to

159

Swifs, their utiathiuent to their coan-

935 try - - ■ 27»

291 S^SISSLRLAND - 2/1

247 hiftorical epochs of 279

22fl Sword-fifh of the Muditeiraiican 7

92 Swickuiloet mouniU'U - 345

«C1 Svlt ilkitd - - 218

Tabby,

<S0

I K D £ 5c.

PAGE

Tabby, a mixture of (lone and mortar,
whicn becomes bard as rock, ufed
in Morocco - 760
Table Buy - - 764
Tacuz river - 750
Tadmor in the derert - 022
Tafilet - - 759
Tagliamcnto river - 301
Tai-how lake > 861
Tain - -79
Tajo river - - 367
Taiwan or Formofa ifland - a 63
Taki, feft of China Proper - 053
Talas river - 343
Tambookies - 765
Tana river - - 244
Tanaro river - - 000
Tangier - - 760
Taiiiia ifland - 516
Tao fee, a feft in China I'l-opcr 353
Tapcilry, remarkably old In the cathe-
dral of Baytux * 130
Taptee river - 430
Tarai. la mountains - 751
Taraz - - 472
Tanna - 692
TarttfTus iQe, the Tarlbifh of the I'hoe-

niciaiis - 1 93

Tafliard ifland » 114

Tatauay « 504

Tatar*, acrount of - 335

Tatary, hiflorical epochs of 473

Chinese - 363

Independent - 472

Tatra mountains - 177

Tatta - - 442

a faline lake - 326

Tavia Foenamoo ifland - 316

Tavora - - 266

Taurida mountains - 155

Taurus mountain, Taurian cbain 326

Taw river - - 54

Tatf river - - 82

Tchany, lake of - 342
Tea, quantity of, exported annually

from ( hina - 357

the pcntral ufe of, in Enpjland 00
Teak-tree of I he Hinnan empire fn|)e-

rior to the Englilh oak 399

ofHimlollan - 4^)4

'I'ebriz, or Tauriz - 462

Te<'hucks, foine account of 655

Teck, dukedom of - 297

TedjenorTcdjen river - 46fi

Teembo - - 762

Tees river - 54

Teeth, tribute of, in New Holland 510

Teffliz - - 461

Tehuacan, or Teguaoan - 005

Tehuels - - 7^0

or Patagonians - ib.

Tcliicherry - 445

Teine rivst - • 5ii

Tenerif ifland »

peak of *

Tengis lake

Tercera ifland »

Terek river ^ ^

Terkiri lake
Termed
Ternat ifland

Terra Auftralis k

del Fuego

Fermu - . .

Tefino river - «

Tetuan
Texas

Tezcuco lake
Thaluan river

Tlmmes, its rife and courfe
Thanet ifle
Theatrical exhibitions at funerals

in Siam
Tliomas tit., ifland - 238,

Thorn
Thun lake
Thur river
Thuringia forcft
Thurfo
Tiber river
Tibet

uoinitains
Tibetian Alps, northern chain of
Ticuna peifon, from the Nibbee plants

of Surinam
Tides uiiknr.wn in the Baltic
Tidore ifl nd - «

Tiefs river

Tiger, royal of, Bengal
Tlcrl

Tigris river
Tille ronuntain
Timber floats in Holland
Timor ifland
Timorlaut ifland
Tin mines of S|Mni(h South America

of AuAria

of Banta iflund

of Ccnmall

of England

of Malaya

of Mexico

of New Mexico

of Pc^u •

of Portugal

of Saxony •

of Siam
Tincal, or cruvic borax, produced by a

lake in " ibct
Tinian, ifland of •

Tirf-y iflp.nd »

Titicaci., lake of
Tobago, ifland of
Tobiis - -

rice

770

492

5269

.'{42

377

481

506

741

704

300

760

563

620

098

£«

408

663

279
278
288'
79
801
371
877
432

739
7'
504
176
435
748
025
245
232
501
514
688
180
500
62
ib.
403
635
632
400
268
291
411

Tol^olflc
To 'aiisa
Tocuyo
Tokareda*

378

520

668. eas

669
709
838
706
716
480
Tukfet

INDEX.

cold wind of Soutli

1>AGE

aag

203

Tolat
Toledo
Tomahavi a

America - C83

Tombufloo - 774

Tomm river » 341

Tone river - - 54

Tongataboo, iflandof - 5-26

Topaz rock in Saxony - 291

Topia mountain - 621

ToiKJgraphy, definition of - 1

Tornea lake - - 25?

river - - ib.

Torrifdal river - 244

Toryifland - - 114

Touliufe - - 126

Tounzemahn lake - 396

Tranquebar - 238
Tranfports, firft fent to Botany Bay,
Port Ja(-kfon, and Sidney Cove

in 1787. - 509

Tranfylvania, hifiorical epochs of 167

Traunlake - 176

Trebbia river - - 301

Tremcfin - - 759

Tremitiifles - 307

Trent, its rife and courfe • 53

Triers ele£lorate • 295

Triefte - - 174

Trincomali - - 449

Trinidad ifland - 663

Trinity, gulph of the Holy - 741

river - - 617

Tripoli - - 757

Triftan, da Cnnha ifland - 769

Tritonis Palus - 753

Trois Rivieres town - 643

Trolhattam, canal of - 255
Troolies, the largeft leaved plant

known, produced in Sucinam 739

Trappau - , - 173

Troy - -« 322
Truxlllo - 604. 697. 718

Tfchafatfeh mountain • >64

Tf-geTolake - 176
Tuain - - .. 108

Tubingen - - 297
Tucuman - - 676,677
Tuftoons, or typhons, flontis in the

Chinefe fea - >»14
Tula - - 150
or Tola river - 841
or Montezimia river 596. 619
Tulmen j} - 7x6
Tmnbe* - '» 692
Tuobridge waters • 63
Tunguflca river • 34 1
Tuiy« - - 706
Tunis - - 758
formerly the chief feat of Car-
thaginian power - ib.
Tunny fiih of the Mediterranean 7
Tunquin - - 413
Turcomans, or Lords of banditti 923
Turfan - - S67
Turgai rivet •• ^ 4ia

Turin - • ;

Turkey iw Asia

hiftorical epochs of
m Europe

hiftorical epochs of
political importance
and relations of
Turkiflan
Turon harbotur
Tufcany

Tuienag mines of Chint
Tweed river
Tyne river

of Scotland
Tyri lake
Tzana lake

or Dembea lake

»3'

PAQE
310
32t

ib,

312
214

217
472
413
308
362
S2
54

245
751

Valday mountain
Valencia, South America
Viilenciennes - -

Vaientia ifland
Valladolld

New Spain
Van lake
Varano lake
Va(h

Ucaial rivpr
Vedas of Hindoftan
Vedreta
Velino river
Venice
Vera Cruz

Paz
Veraguoi

city
Vtrcelli

Verd, Cape dc, iflands
Verden

Vemer, mountain
Verfailles palace
Vefuvius
Vifloria
Vienna

Vigagora mountain
Ujin river

Viklen, or Viflor ifland
Villa Grande
Villages, built on. rafts on the

river in Borneo
Vincent, St. Ifland
Virgin iftes

Vifluiei Vololhok canal
UilVonfin river
Vifiapour

Vift, north and fouth iflands
Villula river
Vlea ifland
river
Ulitea ifland
Ulm

Ulabad lake

Ulug Beg univcrfity ■

Umnerapoora

159
716
135
11«

209
563
326
801
480
669
425
177
30»
312
563. 598
' 564
564.704
603
810
770
291
177
12&
303
716
172
767
388
243
73$

Banjar

SOI
663

ih,
150
555
447

99
191
521

as7

S98

oac
48a

396
UoitRriiint

ti*

INDEX.

PAGE

9AnT

tTDitarlant in England

Volcanoes of Japan ..

082

Unjiga, or M'Kenzie't riTcr

654

of Jorul'o - 62 s. f,o«

tiniMxIIueg of Aberdeen

of Italy

3o3

of Abo

354

ofthe Well Indies

66^

•f Spanifli America

a87

of Kamchatka »

044

; •rA\iflria

iyt

of die Manilla iflands

503

•f Benares

420

of Mexico

626

efBufla

174

of Mindanao illand

503

•f Calcutta

488

of Orizaba - 625.627

•f ( oimbra r

2A5

of Petcnw

727

•f C opci)hagen

241

of I'opocatepec

601

• ,' cf Di'bret^in -

172

of Ltt Sal/a

313

• •f Deiim^urk

941

of Si( ily

S06

•f Dublin

106

of Sumatra

49s

■of Eflinburgfii

of Tanna ifla: J

516

- ' «f hi gland

of the peak of Tencr'.f

771

of Eriau

i7a

of Terra dii Fiiejro

741

of Fwoe

124

of Ternat illand

506

til" Fraiilvfoit on the Odn

18S

of Tuflla

(125

«f (icor.'ia

54 ?»

ol'Varu

54'>

©f (toninj,?n

292

Volenti river - - 15

a. aif>

ofCr^t/

17-2

Voltnniii vivrr

i)OU

et Hiinvard in Aint'iica

54'»

Vofgcs or lluiifdruik, mcuniiiins of

tsf n>,»i.iiu!

».iO

f ranee

100

•1 Iii''jiruck

.'2

Ujtas tree, of the ifland of Celebez

504

of Kid

24 t

»he exiftence of, in Java

oi^I.JDia

6't7

confuted

501

of Luiidpn

254

Upfal

a.5,v

ol Murbiir:?

2'J*

univerfity of

254

of ilie NetlierI«i«Is

aa;

Ural mountains

]i6

of Farina and I'iacentia

313

IJralian chain

U20

ofPa'ia

311

I'rlianitv, a want of, in the Cniied

o*"Pcnrvl;ania

549

Suites of Ainenoa

5-»»

ol Ffitjiuo

)7i

I'rmia lalic

467

of )'i'uliia

IKS

Urrnea r,iiif;«of n.fiuntains

(.'J 4

of Kintcin

2J4

^jlU^, or bifon i i Auftria

ira

of lloHork

ilu

of the ( autafian r.»cun-

ofKutfia

149

tains

S46

of 8iiluina< ca ' •

201

I'fe, or ()ufe river

•I'haiiiaicRiid "

4hO

' (iiant iddiid - "

135

of Suulaiiil

t,:s

l iiiraifie

307

ofSjiniti

201

liiuwas I'iicr •

644

of Tuliiii'.;ea

297

Utrerht - •

931

dr'Tiirin

31U

lit/'la IVCquaro

605

at Vit-nna

1/2

Vultiiiin iflt:

303

of tlie I'uiicd Scate* of

L'ielettj luountuins of

74«

Ainniia

ofl'pfal

2J4

«f Wilna

IHH

t'nft ifland

Vtal rivrr » •

93a

VoLai.ocsofNortb Anirrifw

«4J

\\ i.l)H(h river

.■•55

» f South Amcriia

672

W aijon, or WdiljiK) ifland

514

of SfNiiiift) IM . America

6 if,

\\i;l<c held

4.)

of 1 lie AiKJci -

741

\N'rtl Jnli liver

75S>

Oir Barren Ifle near th«

W'mumk

90»

Andariiant

40-t

WAt.i.i, towns </f

of Ifernco

501

i'linet of, Siiaiglil »

UlU

oftlic ifland tirBjurboii

rift

WxM

of New Hritaiii

A I.-.

\\ nil, ;;ri.it, nKliiiia I'loper

of ibcifliiiidofCclfltei

50:j

W'lillnin.'Kli lake

fl70

ofColima

f)Ji

\V;iiilhus illand

841

of the ( tit'ipafhi mountain

<^fj

V\'iiifri»er •

'»»■ F»yal ill.n.l

Ufi'J

Wa.^ov - • .- ,

1N»

W«fliiii^t"n eilv •

549

""• oii volranofa in fjf ral

l;'o

Waflii Hilton eodctre -

•fCoBong ifland

y'7

WiHtiUlw in •'^coUaaJ

11 •

."i

Y
Y,
Y(

Y.
Yi
Yi
Yi
Ti

Walcrfv

Index.

«33

PAOt

WatP-fotJ S' 108

Watling-ftrect) altonvm n»d 16

WecTcr river • «> 54

Wcner lake •> a 57

Wena liver - a«6

WcftmiDfter abbej • a?

Wcter river » 357

Itke • il>.

Wexford • . . • 108

Wharn mountoin • - 55

height of • i^.

Whigs and Tories, their cuutcntions 34

White mountains , - S56

Oak mountains - 54S

Qrea or Ganviik fe» - 7

Wick . -79

Wicklow mouAtains in Ireland 1 1 1

Widows, btiming of, in HindoOan 434

Wight, iOeoT . 64

Wilna uaiverfitj - m

WinehcfUr - 40

college of o it.

after the heptarchy, th«

c^talofEngiaod

Windfor caftl*

Windward iilands

Wines nwde by French fettlers fioaa

wild grapes on the Ohio
Winipic hJce
Winnepeg little lake
Wifmw
Witim river
WitCmbctg

Wood, want of, in Scotland
Wool, the conmeree and manulaAure
of, in BngkAd, to the annual value
of 15,000,000
WorcfAer

Wutid, the quaitnt and divifiuns «l
Worau

eaten in New Uollauii
Womw of Surinam
Wrath, Cape
WuUi mouittaina
Wutrtkttuaa

mouDtaJDs
daehy
WunftuTg bifiioprick
Wje rivec

Yarmouth, its fiflicriet

Yellow Stone river

Yemen

Yenifei river

Yeu ifland

Ye/d

Yokul mounuins

Yopez river

Yordas cave

Yoik

in Canada

jurifdi<(lion and extent of the pro-
vince

and Lancafter, wan

advantages derived iinm the
wan

fort, Hudfon't Bay

New - -

Youghall
Ythaii river, formerly famous (or its

pearl fiflieries
Yueetaa
Yunnan mines »

Xaiapn

Y river

Ysbblonnoi feouatalni

Yaik river

Yakutlk

Yale rollage

Yai«fncgr«e«

Yap Ifland

Yare river

Tnkfed

river

PACK

017

466.484

8I9> 340

13S

463

349

610

6»

644

4»

668

353
651
536
335
341
386
83

8V5

31C

738

468

397
ib.

it:

395

SO
15

651
550

loa

80
563
362

601

tan

343
343
3U9
S4«
761
541
61V
367

a6i

Zaan . 74?. 75». J64

Zabus river > > 7 59

Zacateras - . 563

town . 606

Zaca'ula river • . 610

Zahir river • • 763

Zambefi river • 746

Zanguebu - 745.765

Zanoniiile • • ao7

Zante ifland • . 334

Zanzibar ifland • 769

Zannd - • 468

Zanyoelake 6<l*

Zawajalake • • 751

Zealand iflands • 3>')1

New . . 315

Zebu ifland • • 503

Zetland rivrr ||9

Zelua, palace of M§

Zeila, port of fit

Zell . «M

Zembu of Africa • 777

Zemindan - 439

Zcmlia, Novnva, ifland • 159

Zemtero, Holy Well - 489

Zendenid rivrr - 466

Zirchnitrcr See • 181
Zixani* Aquatira, nearly allied to th»

rice - - 658

Zoology oi AbyiCn'ia • 751

ot the ««flem onaft of Africa 766
uf Spanlth North Amrrira 639

of Stianifli South Amctica 607

of Arabia - 4<)3

ofAuftnlada • 511

of ''.uftria - ir^

of the Dirman empire 400

of Canada - 644
of the Oip(t of GwmI Ho{« 764

aH Zoology

834

N D

EX.

PAGB

PA«|i

Zoology of CwlOB

4)0

Zoology of Portugal - •

267

oft lull

7a2

of Pruliia - >

192

of Clitiia

•

aci

ofRulfia

157

of Cochin Qhina

413

of the Kuflian empire in Afia

346

of Denmark

246

of the Sandwich illands

522

ofKgypt

;j6

of Scotland

«9

ol' England

(iO

of Siam

411

, of Kraiice

ia:J

of Spain - -

ail

^ , of Geimany

■269

of Siimaira

499

oflliDdutbin

4;J4

of Sweden

259

,-', ^ of Holland

Uii3

of SwifTerland

282

^, of New Holland

4SS

ofTatary

370

V. of Japan

389

of Tibet

377

., . of Iceland

346

of Turkey

223

, of Ireland

112

in Afia

329

of Italy

304

of the United States of Amo-

ofLaFiata

6S7

rica

459

of Maiava

403

ZOMf

481

^ of the Sethcrlands

140

Zug lake

.279

,- oi Oralirhe

iJ4

Zurich

276

of I'apiia, or New

Guinea

513

lake

279

of I'criia

469

Zurucl

mitu

StiS

oi I'cru

701

Zwarc

Berjj mounujn

70d

• :

'•• I • ' '

•

.. ,\«

•

s • .' • *■ ■

...V

»■

- %

I \ .

nff

* « .

. ■ i.-

IHE ENU.

„ .4

. ».

■4

«.

?*.-.

«t •»

rftiralian and Preflon,
Ainicn^uvat, LutMkM.

» • * «.

Works printed for

Lon^matiy Hurji, Rees, Orme^ and Brown, PaiemoJieriivuQt

and Cadell and Davies^ Strand*

Cl .,(♦♦

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