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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA. il est filmA d partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite. et de haut en bas. en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 THE PRINCE OF WALES IN INDIA. Hunter, Rose & Co., PRINTERS AND BINDERS, TORONTO. f U I i li CX^i^/?^/ THE PRINCE OF WALES IN INDIA : y 0B» From Pall Mall to the Punjaub. BT J. DREW GAY, Special Oorrespondeni of the London "Daily Telegraph." TORONTO: SBLFORD BROTHERS, Publishebs. MDCCCLXXVII. V < -i/s B/Y 21-3 Entorcd according to Act cf Parliament of Canada, in tlie year 1876, by BELFORD BROTHERS, In the Office of the Minister of Agriculture. nJ ;.!' CONTENTS. CHAPTER. PAOB. J. — First Imi^rossions of Bombay 9 II. — Social Life in Bombay 10 III. — Receptions of Rajaha 29 IV. --The arrival of the Prince 45 v.— Royal Fetea 54 VI. — Life in Poona 73 VII. — Games and Sports at Baroda 82 VITL— The Voyage to Ceylon 99 IX. — Cingalese Fairy Land 113 X. — Kandyan Curiosities 119 XI.— The Veddahs of Ceylon 132 XII.- The Sacred Tooth 137 XHL— A Week in Madras 142 XIV. — Indian Amusements 164 XV.— The Prince in Bengal 171 XVI. — A Sunday in Calcutta 179 XVII. — Polo Playing and Snake Charming . . 185 XVIII.— A Captive King 194 XIX.— Life in Calcutta 200 XX.— Knight-Making 208 XXL— The Sacred City of Benares 218 XXII.— A Levee of the Brave 226 XXIIL— A Review of Delhi 240 XXIV.— The Battle on the Ridge 249 XXV.— Feats of Skill and Strength 257 XX. VI. — Jummoo the Magnificent 263 M OONTBMTS. WAVTBK. PAOn. XXVII — Sports in Cashmoro 272 XX V 1 1 [.- Akbur'B Capital 281 XXIX.— A Tomb and a To wor 287 XXX. — Native Courts and PrisonB 297 XXXI.— An Eastern Paris 306 XXXII. — Tiger Shooting and a Durbar 317 XXXIII.—Scindia's Welcome 326 XXXIV.— Scenes in Gwalior 33« XXXV.— Hunting in the Jungle 346 XXXVI.— Allahabad and its Sights 360 XXXVII.— English Life in tko Hills 856 '/ r' PAOB. 272 281 287 297 305 317 326 330 345 350 356 ILLUSTRATIONS. A Rhinoceros Fight Frontispiece. The Ascent to the Temple of Parbutte, near Poona 77 An Elephant Fight in the arena, near Baroda 87 A Captive Tiger led before the Prince, after the Sports in ) the arena, at Baroda ( ^^ Buddhist Priests exhibiting Buddha's Tooth to the Prince. ) .«w at Kandy ' J 127 Native Princes at the Chapter of the Star of India, Calcutta 177 The Monkey Temple at Benares 223 Hunting in the Terai— crossing a Mullah . . 329 '* I . k >'] !i II. THE PRINCE OF WALES IN INDIA. »» ♦ «» CIIAPTEli T. FIRST IMPHESSIONS OF BOMBAY. It was a bri£(ht Rutnmn morninf* when we landed in India, — briglit not in tlio sense that you in Kngland undorHtand bright- ness, but with a gleam and a heat w hich you only associate with the midday glare of a hot aumnioi's day, and not at all the cold calmness of an English autumn. Nothing could be pleasanter to all of us, heartily tired as we were of the sea and its belong- ings, than at length to descry the long line of hills which told us of proximity to Bombay. Had we not had the incentive to satisfaction which a three weeks' voyage engendered, the pro- spect which presented itself, as the ship neared shore, would of itself have been sufficiently delightful. Only five minutes ago, and the sky was brilliantly lit with stars; now the sun's rays were shooting up in the east behind the grey mountains, and driving night away with startling rapidity. Like a huge pano- rama Bombay rose before us. Yonder on the right was the island of Elephanta, with its caves and its jungle; away in front of us Trombay Island with its mountains and precipices. Bombay itself, skirting the bay, was thrusting out, so to speak, from the lingering gloom into the advancing sunshine, its white houses, its palm-trees, its pleasant hills and valleys, and its splendid harbour, and drawing forth, from those who now saw it for the first time, repeated exclamations of astonishment. It is difficult to say what Bombay looks like. The Bay of Naples, to which this home of Western Indian industry and gov- 1 10 IVITH THE PllINCE IN INDIA. ernmcut has often been comparted, is not at all like it. You fail to see the huge mountain overtopping everything. The lines of hills which skirt the water and shut out the horizon from view, fill you with surprise, but certainly do not remind you of Vesuvius. They are peculiar to the place, and are like nothing to which our Euiopean eyes are accustomed. Boldly out against the sky stand Matheran and the outposts of the Ghauts, some apparently extending for miles in a hard, straight line, as though, by some tremendous convulsion of Nature, the peaks had been sheared off, and a hard road made in the region of cloud-land. Near by are hills with summits, which look marvellously like ruined temples, columns, and monuments, fantastic results of inexplicable forces. There is scarcely a hill with the orthodox cone — nothing half so respectable as Snowdon or Pilatus. As for the town, it is almost as irregular in appearance as are the hills in the distance. Not that this ii-regularity is objectionable; on the contiary, the very absence of sharply-defined streets and regularly laid-out squares adds to the charm which the place possesses. The white houses struggle down to the water's edge in most curious fashion; they are huddled together as though every inch of ground was of the utmost value, and it was neces- sary to crowd as many bricks and stones as possible into the smallest conceivable ►-^•»ce. You wonder, as your eyes move along the strand in the direction of the fashionable suburb of Ma'aliiT Hill, that some one did not suggest wider spaces be- lw>KiL the houses in the valley, instead of leaving the land so e.;'A\[ .i'/>tively unoccupied in the higher ground. But once you iir.ve landed, you find many of your preconceived notions upset The part which appeared to be crowded and close is, in reality, only so down at the water's edge. Right through tue centre run wide roads, flanked on either side by line houses and grand pub- lic buildings, such as on a first sight one could scarcely expect Bombay to possess. Tliere is a magnificent expanse called the Esplejiade, with large trees overshadowing its pathways, an4 #1?! '*lii>iJfi<"a>>l'''Tiri"ifi'ii"rr' FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF BOMBAY. 11 some edge e you ipset, ility, run piib- pect the parade and cricket grounds on oiti.or hand. Tliere are trooj)s in, review order on the right, and two cricketing elevens of P]ng- Jishmen bowling and batting on the left, with the old-fashioned scoring tent, the familiar soda-water and brandy bottles peeping out of ice-pails, and a fashionable crowd of English ladies and gentlemen watching the game and applauding the players. One side represents the fleet, lieutenants, sub-lieutenants, and mid- shipmen; the other side is drawn from a club which boasts the title of Gymkhana. When the stumps are drawn, the battle is undecided, the officers go to their ships, the Gymkhana to their homes, and the spectators towards the Apollo Bandar, to listen to the band which plays near that landing-stage before dinner each night. The streets which pierce the strange-looking houses wherein the natives reside are crowded to excess. The vehicle, not- withstanding that its driver shouts himself hoarse and strikes fiercely at passers-by, can scarcely move forward at a good walking pace. Mohammedans, Parsees, Hindoos, Mahrattas, Chinese, English sailors from the flying squadron ancho. jd in the harbour, negroes, Lascars, nondescripts from every known place, are all here, and are dressed in their most brilliant cos- tumes. Before every house is hung a festooned wreath of leaves and flowers ; glass lanterns, to be lighted at night, are to be seen everywhere. When darkness comes on, and the lamps are lit, when the coloured fires burn in the courts of the temples, and the light is reflected from house to house by the burnished metal work, for which streets in Bombay are famous, the sight is magnificent in the extreme; even now, in the daytime, it is marvellous to the unaccustomed eye. Robes of vermilion, scarlet, blue, and gold, richly chased jackets and flowing, wliite burnouses, intermingle and blend with the oli/e coloured, naked backs of those who own neither ornament or uress worth men- tioning, but who are come out by tens of thousands to look at each other. Does the eye fix upon the numberless head-dresses ■ft*^--:. i ■ ii^ ■? 12 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA. worn 1 Tlion there are the Parsee hat, the Euroiiean helmet, the Turkish fez and snow-white turban, the turban of green worn by the most favoured of Mahomet's own, and that of red or pink, boasted by the Mahrattas of the hills. All kinds, shapes and colours are passing in view like the varied glasses of the kaleidoscope. How silent is the footfall of this mighty mass of athletic men ! Occasionally a sandal may grate on the hard road ; but, for the most part, the promenaders are innocent of foot covering of any kind, and move along as noiselessly and as stealthily as though absolute quiet were the object of their lives. Ever changing in appearance, the tide of human life rolls on, without the buzz of a European crowd, with scarcely the sound of a single heel. The rapidity with which colours melt one into another almost bewilders the spectator : he can scarcely note that more than half of those who are passing have marked their foreheads with red paint, and that the ladies v/ho are in the crowd have, in many cases, very large rings passed through their particularly small noses. The fashion of facial ornamentation is not wholly unknown among sundry of high degree at home, only in these Eastern lands it is brought to further perfection. If a dark- coloured gentleman considers that his complexion would be improved by a patch of yellow on each cheek, in front of the ears, paint is not costly, and a friendly hand will quickly apply the pigment. Should a lady think that a ring in her nostril, and a little patch of crimson on her forehead, would add to her other attractions, she follows out her convictions bravely. Even the Nubian at Aden has the courage of his opinions in this re- spect. His instincts tell him that Nature was not prodigal of beauty when she designed his countenance and hair. Does he rebel ? No; he begins where nature left off, and with a knife makes several delicate slashes on his cheeks, wiiile, with a solu- tion of lime, he rub.^ the top of his head, and colours his curls a brilliant yellow. This is as it should be, and the conclav^v is acknowledged by the dwellers in Bombftj H •i FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF BOMBAY. 13 le >l7 Then there is the additional charm that an act of ornamenta- tion is at the same time an act of devotion. It is combining business with pleasure, satisfying conscience, and pleasing the mind — a two-handed comfort which renders the body a thing of beauty, and morally constitutes it " a joy forever." So the people have very generally daubed their foreheads all over, and thus added to their beauty and their piety at one stroke. The IMohammedans have a reason also for joining in the festivities. It is the first day of Ramadan — a time for best clotlies and, to say nothing of best behaviour, a moment for sanctified exulta- tion and religious hilarity. And with a firm belief in Dr. Watts' aphorism that " Religion never was designed to make our pleasures less," the Mohammedan brings an extra supply of betel-nut, puts on his choicest turban and robe, and does his best to keep the feast. In this way the crowd is recruited, and before the night comes on the roads are impass- able, for the feast of lanterns is an abiding pleasure to the native of India, and the brilliantly-lit houses, temples, and statues may well be gazed at by a people whose faults, whatever they may be, do not include a lack of appreciation for colour and light. Just when we arrived Bombay was full of Rajahs ; and, if proof of this were wanted, nothing would be easier than to copy from the ofiicial list a long column of their names and titles. But as at the best life is short, and the cognomens of these dignitaries are not the lightest of reading, 1 will only give a sample. I will not imitate the oflScial report even in this. Under the heading of distinguished arrivals stands a series of extraordinary titles. Were they alone, they would be grand in their very unpronounceability — if I may coin such a word. But an ingenious otlicial has attempted to make the matter clear to the uninstructed jnind, and to that end has prefixed an alias to each name. Thus we find a(1iuiial)le and vvell-ljorn rulers placed on the list, and resp^otivel*^ styled 14 WITH THE PRINCE IN INDIA, :9\ :t! Gungadharrao Gunput alias Bhaoo Saheb, chief of Meerujand ; llamchundrarao Gopall, alias Appa Saheb, chief of Jamkhundi. There is always a pleasure in beholding the inexplicable. Who that has seen them has not gazed with delight upon the Sphinx, the Pyramids, the tablets from Nineveh, or the paint- ings of Gustave Dor6 1 You cannot understand them a bit ; their very mystery makes you happy ; if you knew all about them you would give them no more attention than you do to the lions in Trafalgar Square or the Bethnal Green Museum. Why, then, eliminate all pleasure from a contemplation of the name of Trimbakrao Ram Purandhare by telling in plain Eng- lish who the gentleman really is, or bother people by stating that Luxumon Maharudra Swami is the ruler of Cliafal? It may be pleaded as an excuse that very few know where Chafal is, and that the explanation has merely a look of careful atten- tion about it. But it robs the list of all romance, and makes it a dry statement of unintelligibility. The only consolation under such distressing circumstances was that we were informed with great regularity of the visits of the Chiefs to the Governor of the Presidency, and of his visits to them. There is an old but admirable saying to the effect that " every dog has his day." In Bombay, at festival times, every Chief has his ten minutes. According to the Government statement, the aged Governor of Bombay, Sir Philip Wodhouse, began his visiting at eleven a.m. punctually. From that time till 4.30 P.M. he visited six fresh grandees every hour, winding up this pleasant and entertaining diversion by an interview with Triipbakrao Ram Purandhare. We learnt with some pleasure that betel-nut and the leaf called pan was presented by each Chief to liis Excellency, and that in each case the Governor was placed by his host in the place of honour at the right. Bui about the conversation the " Gazette " knew noth- ing; and it did not even state what weight of betel-nut his ^