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'6':' 3 Tasl Mom Street ~-;i: '-echester, New Tofk UbOy USA '-— ^ ''16) 48? - 0300 - Phone A^mmm^ H i^^ '«■ ■•>• iii ^Y. DOMINION OF CANADA. GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. ANTICOSTL V NOTES 0\ TIIK liESOURCES AND CAPABILITIES 111'' '"HK ISLAND OF ANTICOSTI. BY A. Pt. ROCHE, ESQ. lUad hvfu.x- 'he. 'jlto-wry ami JL.^oncal Socu'Jy of Qnd.cc, ' y,!h October, IS-IJ^.-] WITH EXTRACTS FROM REPORTS ON GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF AXTICUSTI, ax MK. JAMES RICHARDSON, EXPLORER. LOXDOX : OKonoE Smvti,. .V Co., 187, Vvv.n Tii.vMr« Stkekt, E.C. X de
  • a-ar, a.,1 m.lon.U Society of Q„.i,,, 4/A Oc/c.ic>-, 1854.] XcJrih Ar"'' "' ""r-''^^« -'^-h is going on thvoughou. British ^orth Amoncn m n.cla.ming tl.o uilclerncssand in scc^in. out an developing new sources of wcaltl. it is -, mnff. ^- . , «-se who observe that prcre 'i . ' -^^onishment to --. J-., or to int^a^ ;::::: r;;r ::-: :;:::: provmco ot itsoli, Jji„. n,,,,]y iu tlie centre of our North Ameri - , t ut .,,,„ ,„ ,, ,^,^ ^^,^, j^^^^j^,^^^^ ^^^^^ and beyond ia 'inr""'n ™"^ ^'''^^"'^>- -^'-- — rce of an/one wUch invests r ^th f TpI'' '' "^ ""'^^ ^'=^^^' "' ^•^•^°''^^'- has done 1^^: f' ""^ ^"^ i-^inaiy terrors, and which 'J \aiuauie i,\es liave been destroyed. \- ,» tntfivotho worst character V.rio». ci.ou„.t.„ce. .,.ve ™,,|^.. ^^^ „, ,, ^, .„, ,„. «,o .linger, ot U» c«..U »., to ... ^^ ^^ ^^ ^,,^ „,,,„, „1 ,hi. c„mm..,...»t.o.. to '»■"'"" „ ,i.t„ „l,i.U u,.t. only it„„.cx,,to,l ,., to tUo r-f' "" " '^,.„„„„i„c„o!C..n».l.."t „,.u» tt .,.a«. ';'';:;:;■:; :,i::;\,,i.i,.t«u.. .na to « ccat,. which it iurms i-art, hut vvUu ^^^^^^^ .... destructive to the he. - ^^^^ ^^^^^^ .^^^^^^^^ A,nonp the circumstance. v.h.c Im c P ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^.,, ^^ ,,a all . utorpriso froxn /— ;; f ^.,,,,,,,r to its great outlet injure the province by givmg a J r.^^ ^_ ^^^^ ^^^ _ .^^^^ ^^^ .^^^ ^^^^^^.^.^, tl.an it really de.erveH, are ti>c ^ - ^^^ ^„a the opiu.on there hef.,re provision pt-sts .... •- ^ ^^^^^^.^^ ^^ ^^^^^^^ ,,^^^ ,,,,,,, has hitherto provu.lea.tha ^^^^^J^^^^, ,, ,,, other part j,„, ...eckod upon tl>e ishxnd than ^--^^ ^^ ,,, ,, ,,,,,d his ,,,,erWerorgul£. ^'^ ^^^^ H^Lndluwingbeen do. approach to Auticonti ..ti> - -^ ; ^; ^^ ,^ ,Uen ailoat, and as enbed as presenting the f^^^^^^^^,^, chores. But, what- ,,Tording no sustenance tor h.m ^^'^^ J ,,,„, , reeoUeet.on ever unfavourable c-lu^o:. -O^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^.^ ^^^^^^ ^^.^ .„ of the oo!5 tv'....). "'»";^';;;, ,„ „,„„ ,„., ,.„„l,. t.o .a„,.ios, a.,.t .vitl.o„t th, ,„ca„ ' .^, „„, .„,.„„..... .■>■.- (I'ocurc ■d, an I I'higland w co.sti has pro .a that, in an equal stat ,dd be found as inho^pitable m re.a vcd to be upon one or t. . occasion. •il to i'uod ns Anti- That the latter OK llli: IM.AM) (»!• ANTIiOiSTI. should 1)0 coiuleiiinL'd ii[)oa tlio result of tlio exploration of two or thrco spots along the heacli. is also an unjust and absurd, fts if the wliolo of Hiifflaiid had bt'cti dcclarod hanvn and useless, from an examination of a jrroat portion of the shores ot Cornwall, or from the ,ipoariMU'o of the liieiik and treeless country in the neighbour- hood of Jh-it^htot h that all tn >hich lowever, has been said of Antieosti, that its soil is incapable of producing anything in the shape of food, still, if if can be shown to contain other resources, which may bo employed in industrial and commercial pursnits.and which may beexchani,'ed,not only for food and raiment, but for all tiie necesHaries, and oven for the luxuries of civilized life, Hufficiont will remain to convince every intelligent and unprejudiced person, that it can be made to support, and that it will (at the j)rescnt rate of progress of British North Ame -ica), probably eon- tain, at no distant period, a considerable population. That it is !iot only capable of yielding food, but tliat it possesses natural products and resources, which may be turutd to account, and be exchanged for all that can be required to sustain a population, will bo presently shown, as soon as the other bugbear, the reputed dangers of its coasts, shall have been disposed of. To those wiio have drawn conclusions unfavourable to the island, from the nnmi)er of wrecks whicli have been reported to have taken place upon it. it is necessary to point out, that the wrecks, which in returns appears so formidable in the aggregate, under the head of '"Antieosti," have not occurred at one spot, but at many spots widely separated, extending over a distani'e of 320 miles, that being the circumference of the island, and con>eqnently the extent of coast front, not taking into account the indentations caused by bays, creeks, Ac. Take the same length of coast upon any part of the main shores of the river or gulf, and it will be found, u])ou proper iiKjniry, tliat six times as many wrecks have occurred within it each year, as have for the same period taktn ]>lace upon Antieosti. In- stead of the wre(;ks upon the latter having been comjiared with tlie nnmbev of wrecks spreml over the same extent uf I'oast on the former, they have been generally reganUd as having occurred at one spot, and have been compareil with those only which have hap- i.ened at some one place on the main shore of the river or cm\(, of a Q liESOTIRCES AM' CM'ABILITIES fc^v miles, or of less than a n.ile in extent, lyln. iu the eoursc of fewer vessels, yet wrecking annually nearly as many In-om an estimate, nmde l.y the writer of this commnn.cation, of chsastcx-^^_ m the River and (half of St. Lawrenee, during the ten years ending November, lF4lMt appears that half as many wrecks ocn.rred upon the Manicouagan sl.oals, as took place upon the ..land m tha „oriod, and thai Cape Rosier, Matano and Green Island each .rocked upwards of a third of the number of vessels, which were stranded during the same period upon the whole of the 320 m.les of^^the .nuch.libelled coasts of Anticosti. The Manicouagan shoals. Cape Rosier, Cape Chat, anu other spots upon the main shores ot he river and gulf, are places not only nuu.h more to be dreaded by th mariner than Anticosti. on account of the number of wm-.s which occur upon them, but in conse.iuence of the gi-eat loss of hte winch sometimes accompanies those wrecks, while, from the shelvmg nature of the beach at Anticosti, there are few instance, recorded of wrecks upon the latter having been attended with loss of hfe. While the circumstantially related, and carefully preserved account, of the fate of the crew of the Cranicns, wrecked in l-2« near Fox Bav (who, in the course of a long winter, died from fanuno), has created in the minds of many, who adopt, without reflection any popular fallacy phvced before then, a belief that every po^•erty o soil every drawback of climate, and every danger of coast, nmst belon there, arc produced in conse- i[uence of the case with whicli a vessel may be beached witli safety to life on many parts of the island, and not through its dangers of coast. In regard to the latter, those masters who know the coasts of the island well, generally make free with them (unless there happen to be a fog) in perfect confidence and safety, by whicli they gain headway much faster than by keeping in the centre of the ciiannel, or along the south shore of the mainland. To whatever extent plausible reasons nuiy have once given a bad name to Anticosti, there is no just reason for that name being perpetuated; and those who yet view the island as it was regarded shortly after tlio wreck of the Grauicus, can neither comprehend the unjust grounds upon which it was then condemned, nor appreciate the ii portancc to every countrv bnrd:>rin^'- unon the St. LawrouL ini- of I 'HI many recent events, attemllug the rapid progress of the trade and g BKSOCRCES AND CAPABIUTIKS •. 1 • .1. ^vitl, the exception of Antlcosti, is going ™rtici,»to in that prog^.s, it i. ncceKsavy to d.veB t of to v Lputalio.. through ,v„ic., it h„. hoe„ ^^^^'^o'^'f^^^;^^ ,v II he l>»t acoo»,.h>,he"";''-;!"' '^ "i 1 part in the ,.iver, the waters at the -"--»."■"■'■ '^^'"„„ two channels. It eon.ains nearly two m.ll.ons o ae,es h „ upwards of one-fourlh la.ger than rr,nee F->'7\^ ' »"';; ,„, is' a province of itself, with its Lient-Governor, ,., k^. h ■ -' , ,- e • i,f,- tlmn^'iml '^ou s. It IS about 1.3 J miles long a population of figlit> thousaucl «nnth-Wcst Jd tliirty-livc broad in its^^•iaost part, .-Inch is at tbo South N cs ,le,,th of water, and is „,uel, n.ore spae.ous 11,.,, the oth ,, hu ah „t two ,«iles wide and four deep, with goo.l anehnrage. The •T7:r-;rrr^.r:^----;i.e mtcndmg to pasf^ to . licrhtedH tlirougli tb.> Ti^iTst^ts of Belle I.le have been since lighted. * About 2,500,000 acres. t i "^ ^""'^ OF XHK ISLAND Ob" ANTICOSTr. 9 im- or through the Gut of Canso, or whether running between Quebec luul those portions of Canada, and of the Lower Provinces lying upcn the Gulf of St. Lawrence. In taking either of the channels formed by *icosti vessels pass close to the island, in consequence of the in; • ate breadth of the northern one, and of the stron? south-easc current which always runs along the southern channel, to avoid which, and the risk of being driven upon the truly dangerous coast of the south shore of the gulf and river, where, for several hundred iniles, there is no harbour or place of shelter for any craft larger than a scliooner, and Avhere, for long distances there is not one foot of beach outside the perpendicular cliffs to land upon, vessels generally stand out till they make the West Point of Auticosti, close to wliieh is situated the convenient harbour of Ellis Bay, occuj)ying a spot nearly mid-distance between the nor- thern and southern banks of the St. Lawrence, and of easy access from both channels of the river. Considering that about two thousand vessels from Europe alone will have made this point in the course of the present season, some slight idea may be conceived of the cap- abilities of position attached to the island, and in particular to Ellis Bay. The inner anchorage of this bay has a depth of from three to four fathoms at low water, with excellent holding ground (gravel iind mud), is of as large capacity as the harbour of Montreal, and lias been found, by experience, to afford perfect shelter, in all winds, to vessels of upwards of 500 tons; while the outer portion of the anchorage could be materially improved at a trifling expense, so as to be able to contain in safety, during all winds, almost any number of vessels of the largest size. Docks, with a patent slip, Falkland Islands; and the grass is found upon many parts of the coast of South America, where wild cattle a!)ound. When we consider that remote and inclement Iceland raises her flocks and herds, her sheep numbering 500,000, her hor.ses GO.OOO, and her lumied cattle 40,000, and exports the finest fleeces, also dairy and other produce, we have every reason to hope that Anticosti, situated in the midst of the fisheries, which employ many thousand men, of a vast traffic, carried on by upwards of two thousand ships, and within easy approach of many valuable markets, may be made as profitable a grazing country as any portion of British North America. It was, however, at one time condemned even in this respect. Be(;ause some cows, which were taken down there some years ago, happened to die in the course of the winter, a report was immediately spread and generally believed that cattle could not live upon the island : that there was some poisonous substance in the grass, or in the air, which must prove fatal to all cattle coming within its influence; OF TUK ISLAND UK ANTICObXI. 15 and this belief is even entertained bv many at tho present moment; yet, upon proper in<|niry, it appears that tliey died from ne^Mect alono, having been repeatedly left for several days together without food or water. Since that period cattle have been taken down there, and been found to thrive remarkably well. At the South West Point, both Mr. Corbet, the lessee of tlie island, and >Ir. Pope, tho light-liouse keeper, have .several head of rattle, as well as pigs and poultry, all of wliieh are in excellent condition. Of the former Mr. Corbet says they look better in the spring than cattle do at that season at any place upon the St. Lawrence below Quebec. Resting upon a substratum of limestone, tho soil of Anticosti sliould be a warm one, and if cleared to any extent, and thereby exposed to the sun, and drained where it may require drainage, it would no doubt become a productive one. For tho purpose eitlicr of drainage or of irrigation, as the one or the other may be desirable, every facility is offered by tho numerous rivers and rapid streams existing in all parts of the island. Tho composition of the cliffs alone, some of which, according to Capt. Bayfield, R.N".' contain sand, clay and limestone, indicates that there must be good soil of considerable extent in many parts of the island, which only re([uires clearing and cultivation to yield very fairly; for with these substances, and the fine mould of the vegetable deposits, which have been accumulating in the woods for ayes what better farming lands could be desired? In Prince Edward's Island, where the soil re(iuires to be eni-iched, immense quantities of limestone are imported for that purpose from Nova Scotia. Mr. M'Ewan who resided upon Anticosti for fourteen months, in the employ of the Hudson's Bay Company (which Company, however, as well as tlic late North West Company, liad no right to hunt and fish there), mentions that the cliffs rest upon a foundation of limestone, that the second stratum is often composed of the cream-colored clay, and sometimes of sand and gravel, and that the clay often reaches the top or surface, but at times is covered with a thickness of peat; the land in the latter case running into extensive plains. This peat, which produces excellent natural grasses, .and also the finest vegetables, where they have been tried upon it, may bo turned to many useful purposes. h; RKNOL'BCES AND CATAIlI MTIKfi In Ireland a lai<,'e " I'oat Comi)any " is in active operation, having,' a factory at Kilherry, where thoy supply tlioir furnacoH ontin-ly with peat or turf, and also manufacture from it the following,' articles: tar, oil, parallin, naphtha, suiphato of ammonia, charcoal and gas. A substance, from whicli so many articles posscssinj,' ])o\vcr- ' 111 heating properties can bo produced, it is to be hoped will some d;iy bo made to supply one great want of the present age: cheap and compact fuel for steam-engines. Enough, however, has been show n to prove, that, instead of its presence at certain spots at Anticosti l)cing considei'cd as any drawback, the peat wliich is found there may he regarded as a valuable resource of the i.sland, for what is now Ijeing accoiiii)lished with it in Ireland, may at some fiituic period be attempted with it at the former. Of the interior of Anticosti, Mr. Corbet, who has resided at the South West Point for ten years, and who, in his various c.\-cursions, has seen more of the island tliau any other person, describes the soil to consist generally of '• black light soil, clay and sand," and stales that '•from the immense quantities of .seaweed with which the shores abound, he believes the land could be made to yield every description of farm produce. In the same statement he refers to what he and ,Mr. Pope have accomplislied at the South West Point. The writer had, however, obtained a similar statement fi-om the so" of ]\Ir. Pope last autumn. At this spot, whicli Lieut. liaddeley, ]{. I]., who visited it in 18:51, declared to be the most barren and uninviting in the wliolo island, ^Mr, Pope grew last year the finest crop of oat.s, ;500 bushels of the best potatoes (the potato ilisnisc never having reached the island), and every other vegetable in perfection which is grown in Canada; and this he did upon a patch of land adjoining the bleak point where the light-house stands, where the soil consists of a description of black peat resting upon the limestone. Mr. Pope supposes, though he has never tried it, that wheat might be successfully cultivated in the interior, wliicli has never been explored beyond ten or twelve miles from the beach, along the banks of some of the rivers, and then generally by hunters or fishermen ; parties not likely to look for or to cai--; about agri- cultural resources. How much, therefore, must still remain to be explored in an island 130 miles long by nearly 4C broad ! But Of rrii: tslAiVd of anticosti. 17 SI) long as outs and otlior [jroduru raiscil tluTO ciiii obtain the pro. sent high piicos in tho Quebec and (it her markets, it will he of very little othc conse({U( Ca ,i(la for less tlian an equal quantity of oata, will succeed there or not. Yet tliero are many persons ready to condemn, as utterly unfruitful and worthless, any ,!laec wliieli could not luunber wheat among its prodnetions. Of vegetables, Mr. Pope could have dis- po.sod of any iinantity to .ships bound to Quebec, which are often becalmed oil' South West Point after a month or six weeks voyage, with a prospect of bcini,' nearly another month in reaching their destination. The supplying ships under these circumstances, especi- ally when conveying cabin passengers and emigrants, may becomo a very profitable occupation to the settler. Vegetables, meat, fish, soft bread, tire, coukl be easily taken off to vessels in boats, as they are at Portsmouth, Varmouth, and ii number of other ports in England, under circumstances far less favorable, by bum-boats, the owners of which realize immense jn'otits. Tho statements made by Mr. Corbet and Mr. Pope regarding the island, have since been confirmed by accounts received from several other parties, who have been engaged tliere in hunting and fishing at various pcrimls during the last fifteen years, some of whom are still employe.l tiiere. ]}ut not only do the present and tho recent residents speak well of the island, but the accounts of those who have passed considerable periods upon it many years ago are equally favourable. Uv. Morrison, a person well known in Quebec, who (having been previously employed at Anticosti by tlie North West Company), was sent there about fifty years since, to explore a portion of tho island for tho purpijse of forming a settlement, after mentioning in liLs report tho excellency of the soil, and tim timber which he found there, including ash, large pine and tama- rack, says : " I had a house erected on the south side of tho island, around which we made a clearance, and sowed wheat, barley and oats, all of which grew very luxuriantly and ripened. Vegetables and garden stuffs of every description grew remarkably well, and came to as great perfection as any I have seen in Canada. There is very good, clay on the island, of which I naudc .>^omc bricks, and built an oven, and whilst there I imported some cattle from Nova 18 TU;.«0l'nC'K8 AND CAI'AniMTIF.S Scotin, aiulfoiiiul tliiih tlioy (limvo well." Why the i-xploratiotis ■^'1 liil)nnrs of Mi'. Morrison Icil to no result lit tliut time, in thus . •liliiini'il /•' lii*i statoniont, mailo in IH-L'. to tiie present proprietors of the islatjd; " \fli r I rctiu-neil to (^)iiulieo and made my report, 'fr; Onnit, the then prcvfmctor of the larL-est portion of Anticosti. iiT once came to the detcrruinsition of hettlint,' it, iind oiTcrod to mo the siipcrintendcnco. Durini? the \viutcr of l^Ut, 1 enpupcd by liis direrfions eighteen men, intcndinj,' to prooec.l with ih'.'iu to AntieoHti in (ho sprin-r ;\nd to iimm.'diately set about cutting a road iKToss the island; !mi1 fortmiately, Mr. Grant died about that time, and the intention whie'.i h:td bwii entertained of colnuizing the island was abandondl, a eircumstanco nuicli to bo re;,'rettod." Many statements, ocinally favourable as to the atfrinultural capa- bilities of the island, made by purtirs. whnno n sideneo there for con.sidcrablo periods, should give them sorao pretension to a real knowledge of its wortih, in tliat and in other respects, might be quoti-d; but suHiL-ient has been given to convince every reasonable mind that the island is not the utterly barren and miserable place, wliiih so many, who have nurcly touched there, or have sighted it at a distance, liave declared it t.. be. If it were what the latter would wish to make it appear, those who have resided for any time upon the island would certainly not combine to speak v:ell of it, and exjiress a desire to continue there; nor would many of them have vnhiutarily made it thoir abode for ten or tifteen years. . While the accounts of these parties generally agree as to the timber and the nature of the soil, they represent the climate to be milder than that of Quebec. Mr. Wright, a surveyor, who wintered there in ITCu), during what he then considered a very severe season, shows, by his observations taken there, that the thermometjv only fell as low as 15 degrees below zero, and both :Mr. Corbet and Mr. Pope informed the writer that the winter before last there wore only six weeks of sea ice in the neighbourhood of the island.'" This mildness of climate, when compared with that of Quebec and of tlie opposite shores of the St. Lawrence, is easily accounted for by its insular po.sition; the island being surronnded upon all sides by a wide expanse of salt, water, the modifying effects n? which upon climate in all parts of the world, even where v,lf ?.•;d^■u sea may^.L- "♦MrTl'i^e, writing from South-West Point, 15th JaBuary, 1885, Btates:— '■Have had uo ice anywhere until ilth inatant." — Quchcc Chronicle, IGtii January, 1885. Of TIIK ISLANI" OK .WTK.O-iTf. 10 loHH than n inil.«, is well known to all who Imvo ever considered tho ^ nianyiullii.Mceswhieh will beurupon clirnivtp,im>sr oft..u kept up from the island with Mingau on the north shore of the river. When the island shall have a.lvaneed so fa • as to make the establi:ihnient of a winter communication with th- main shore of importance, it would be advisable to empl.jy tV - tho purpose men w],o liavo served in some of ou,- Arctic sear, ling ships, or have belonged to some of the Greenland or Davis' Stfijitr* whalers, who could also be employed in the valuable whale n.d seal fisheries wliicli exist upou] both sides of tho island, in smooth weather a few of tlio enterprising .skilful and industrious Ksquimaux Av.mld easily aecompli.sh il iu th.ii -w/a/.v, and th y would at that season bo tlie best seal hunters which could bo pr.- cured. And no natives of this continent are so susceptible of bein-- civilized as these brave and estimable pcojjle. This is fully jn'oved by the accounts of tho abilities disi^layed by, and tho gallant and devoted conduct of those who became interjiretiTS to our several Arctic expeditious. :\rany men liave nbt.-.incd a monument to their worth, who did not deserve one more than Augustus, tho invaluable 20 RESOURCES ANP CAPAIilLlTlKS Esquimaux interpreter to Franklin in his first and second expedi- tions; -who in au attempt to reach and assist Back in a third expedition, gave Tip his life rather than fail in his voluntary mission, after his companions, in dismay at the dangers encountered, had turned back to Fort Churchill, on Hudson's Bay. If a people, numbering many such as Augustus among them, could be planted in a civilized state upon the north shore of the St. Lawrence, whence many of them were cruelly driven two centuries ago, and be employed in connection with Anticosti, many humane as well as useful and profitable objects would be accomplished by the settle- ment of the island. To return, however, to the difTiculties which ice presents to the navigation of the St. Lawrence. Were the vessels in the Quebec trade constructed with a view to having to navigat(,' a sea occasionally encumbered with ice, and were they commandedby men, wlio had made one or two voyages in a northern Avhaler, we should seldom hear of a sliipwreck in the ice, conse- quent upon an early winter setting in. or upon an unusually late arrival of the spring: two events which liave recently happened, and, together, have caiised the loss of upwards of one hundred ships. Upon being beset by the ice last IS'ovember, many masters of vessels, finding themselves in a difficulty which was quite novel to them, and for which tliey were entirely unprepared, became per- fectly bewildered, and left their ships unnecessarily, while others immediately cast anchor, which was the worst step they could have taken under the circumstances, the drifting ice cutting the resisting vessels entirely through. Though the writer has made many inqui- ries, he has not been able to discover more than a very small pro- portion of officers or men employed in this trade who have ever made a voyage in a northern whaler. It is now time to notice those resources belonging to Anticosti, which, being wliolly independent of soil and climate, may be tui-ned to immediate account. These resources principally consist of its sea and river fisheries, which, although comparatively neglected by Canada, may be classed among the most valuable fisheries of British North America. In the recent report, jjublished by the New Brunswick Govern- ment upon the fisheries of that province, mention is made of the OF THE ISLAND OF ANTICOSTI. 21 valuable whale and cod fisheries existing npon the coasts of Anti- oosti; and it is stated that the Jersey houses fit out vessels to carry on the former upon botli sides of the island, and np the St. Tiawrence as far as Bic, some of the whales ("hump backs"), being seventy feet long, and yielding eight tons of oil; while the fishermen of Gaspc frequently resort to tlie east end of the island and take cod in great abundance. In his work entitled "New- foundland in 18-i-J," Sir Richard Bonnycastle states that " the Avhale fishery is pursued along the coast of Labrador, in and through the Straits of Eelleisle" (close to Anticosti), "and that whales of all sizes are taken, from the smallest finner to the largest nvifticctus, or great common oil wliale of the Northern Ocean, which occasion- ally visits these regions." It thus appears by these authorities, that on every side of Anticosti valuable whales abound; the pursuit of which, and of seals and cod, it is not improbable, could be carried on in winter as Avell as in summer, were the attempt to be properly made; but, without a trial, the undertaking may ever remain unjustly condemned as impossible. Should such an attempt be successful, it would not bo the fir.st instance of that being accom- plished upon trial which theory, timidity, and prejudice had long declared to be impracticable. Here, again, the experience of our nortliern fishermen, and of the Esquimaux, who fearlessly encounter all difllculties and dangers of the ice and of the weather, and who fish in winter and summer, might be successfully brought to bear. Of cod, Mr. Corbet, in his statement made to the writer, remarks that "one boat, with two good fishermen, could take off South West Point, or at Fox Bay, eighteen hundred of tliese fisli in one day;" while Mr. Morrison states that cod, halibut, and a variety of other fish, could be caught all round the island in incalculable quantities, and that no finer cod is caught on any part of the coast of America, or on the banks of Nevv-foundland, than is to be met with there. To this may be added the testimony of Capt. Fair, Il.N., of H.M.S. Champion, Avho states that he met a few shallops from the Magdalen Islands, at the east end of Anticosti, where they found (!od in great abundance, and nf cxoollent quality. Of hardly less value tlian the former is the seal fi.shery, which could certainly be carried on in winter, as well as in summer, many 22 PvESOI'RCES AND CAPABILniES seals being seen on tlic ice during tlie fdriner season and in the spring, and thuusands of them being observed diii-ing the summer and autumn, at the entrances of all the bays and rivers, whei'e they remain almost entirely unmolested. To show the value of this fishery in the gulf, the Xew Brunswick olllcial report, already cited, brings forward an instance of a schooner engaged in it from Sydney, Cape Breton, having cleared £14,000 within three weeks of her having left that port. Yet at Anticosti, where seals abound more than in most parts of the gulf, this fishery is at present almost entire!}' neglected; the Americans, and others who resort to its neighbourhood, being principally engrossed with the still more profitable cod and mackerel fisheries. For the storing and preserva- tion of seal, s\ hale, and cod oil, the temperate degree of heat at Anticosti dui-ing the summer is particularly favourable. At the 23resent moment the mackerel fishery is the most lucrative one in the St. Lawrence, and is the most extensively pursued; mackerel now selling at Boston for nineteen dollars a barrel, and at Halifax and Quebec for a few dollars less than that sum. No part of the gulf aboViUds with this UlIi more than the neighbourhood oi Anticosti. Many schooners visit the coasts of the latter from Vo.b United States, the Lower Provinces, and a few from Gaspe, to carry on this fishery, in which they are very successful ; and Mr. Corbet states that the mackerel he has seen in July and August come in shoals so thick and so close to the shore, that as many as one hundred barrels could be taken in one liaul of the net. A few hours' work will thus sometimes pay the whole expenses of a schooner during the season. Herrings, as lino as any in the world, are as plentiful about the island as mackerel; Imt from the wretched manner in which they are cured, they obtain a much less price in the market, and are, therefore, comparatively neglected by the fishermen. To make this fishery as valuable as the former, a few of the Dutch North Sea fishermen should be engaged, who would introduce their mode of curing the iish which has long obtained for "'Dutch herrings" the highest price in every market in Europe. By adopting that mode the Scotch fishermen arc bcgining to compete successfully with the former. OF THE ISLAND OF ANTICOSTI. 23 At the entrances of all the rivers and creeks immense quantities of lobsters are thrown up by the sea; the collection of which, and the preserving of them on the spot for distant markets, or sending tliem fresh in vessels containing wells to our home markets, might render this fishery a very profitable one. Eels are also very numerous and very flue, and arc often collected by parties of Indians who come over for the purpose from Mingan, and who obtain a high price for them from tlie Americans. Some of the halibut, which are found oif the coast, attain the weight of three or four hundred pounds. The caplin, which are now merely used as bait for cod, are so abundant around the island, that they are sometimes thrown up by the sea, and cover the shore to the depth of two feet. Were they properly cured and exported, tliey would tind good markets in Europe, or oil of an excellent (juality could be made from them by the f^imple process of boiling. The number of schooners '.vliich resort to the shores of Anticosti from the United States, the Lower Provinces and the Magdalen Islands, in pursuit of the cod and mackerel, is so great that there are sometimes as many as one hundred vessels tisliing between the East Point and Fox Bay at one time, all of which are generally very successful. If these fisheries can be so profitable to expensively fitted out schooners (of from 40 to loO tons), some of which come a distance of fifteen hundred miles, and have to bring every supply including provisions and salt, with them, how much more jDrotitable would they become to parties residing upon the island, who would have their supplies upon the spot, and who could carry on their operations in boats. How important also to the latter would become the trade which might be created with the former: the sup- plying them with provisions, often with fishing gear, and with every description of marine stores; and how soon would such a trade lead to more extensive transactions in regard to the purchase of fish upon the spot, and the disposal of it in the best markets' and to a further trade in West India, South American and Medi- terranean produce, obtained in exchance for fish and h;>iTi'» in threat demand in Canada. It might also lead to the gradual rise, at different points of the island, of good sized villages, and ultimately I 24 RESOURCES AND ClPABItlTIES of towns. Many large towns in various parts of the world, which are now places of great wealth, have risen from elements quite as slight as these. Even the frozen shores of Spitzbergen may be pointed out as having been for upwards of a century the site of a flourisliiug settlement supported by the Dutch whale fishery alone. Of this settlement of Smeerenberg on the island of Amsterdam, N.W. coast of Spitzbergen, Scorcsby, in his " Arctic Regions," thus speaks: "Such, indeed, was the bustle produced by the yearly visi- tation of 20U or 3U0 vessels, that the place had tlie appearance of a commercial or manufacturing town ; and of such consideration was this village, that the incitement of an advantageous traffic drew a nnnibur of annual settlers to the place for the purpose of vending sucii stores as bi'andy, wine, tol)acco, and otiicr commodities in constant demand. Not only shopkeepers, but bakers and other artizans resorted thither. Thus the naturally barren and desolate shores of Spitzbergen were made to assume the appearance of a populous country; and such "was the flourishing state of Smeerenberg, that it was compared by the Hollanders with their famous settlement of Batavia, which was founded about the same time." But we need not confine ourselves to the past for examples as to what the enterprise and energy of man, properly directed, may accomplish in places the most inhospitable, or as to the advantages of carrying the fisheries on from stations planted in their immediate vicinity, the intelligence having this moment reached us of the extraordinary success which has already attended the efforts of the gallant Arctic voyager, Capt. Penny, to establish a permanent whale fishing settlement upon the bleak shores of Davis' Straits. Shore-whaling has been very successful at New Zealand, and may be made so at Auticosti, ai'ovind which whales are so numerous that +hey are sometimes found stranded upon the beach. While the men engaged in the pursuit would be able to devote the whole of their time, fL'om the first opening to the latest period of the season, to the capture of the whale (towing each one ashore as soon as caught), tlieir families could be employed in cutting up the blubber, extracting and storing tlie oil, ])re2)aring the wlialebone, &c.; so that no useful puriiou of the animal would be lost, and the eajiture of the greatest number of whales would be ensured. The parties on OF TH]: ISLAND OF ANTICOSTI. 25 shore conld likewise be employed in making casks and other articles used in the " try-houses " for boiling the blabber. Under the usual system many opportunities of a capture are lost in proceeding to and returning from the fishery, and nmcli time is wasted in the extracting, stowing, and disposal of the oil, while much tliiit would be valuable, were it preserved, is thrown overboard, and a good deal of oil is lost by leakage. In regard to the fisheries generally, the advantage of being able to cure the tish upon shore, in proper houses, instead of curing them carelessly on board, must be appa- rent to every one. What add to the value of Antieosti as a tishinfT station, are the numerous creeks and rivers, affordi'ig perfect shelter for boats and schooners, with a fine beach to land upon, ■which are found on both sides of the island. So long, however, as distant fisheries can be carried on with a ] .'ofit, there can be no reason why Canada should not participate in the latter as well as in the former, should she, with her large and increasing resources for successfully embarking in any luidei'tiiking, begin to evince that spirit of enterprise which led the earlier colonists of the neighbouring States to fit out vessels for the ])ur- suit of the most distant whale fisheries, as well as to carrv on in boats that which existed upon their own shores. Antieosti, where there is excellent accommodation for any number oF vessels of from 300 to 400 tons burden (the size mentioned by Scoresby as best adapted for the Greenland and Davis' Straits fisheries), might eventually be made, in regard to the great southern as well as to the great northern fisheries, such a station for the fitting out of ■whalers, and for the exportation of their produce, as Nantucket and New liedford have long been for the fitting out and the recep- tion of the whalers of the United States. Of the river and lake fisheries of Antieosti, Mr. Corbet, who leases them, as well as the right of hunting the whole island, but who keeps up a very small establishment, and consequently makes use of his privilege to a very slight extent, si.ys : " 1 have frequently, along with two Indians, taken in the month of July, in one day, twelve hundred salmon-trout, and upwards of two hundred salmon, out of Observation River, near the South West Point, the majority of the salmon-trout weighing four pounds, and the sa'mon from 26 KESOURCKS AXD CU-AniLITIUS twelve to fifteen poutiils;" and Mr. Morrison states, that tlio first day lie went up Salmon River he caught, in a very short time, with a small net, from two hundred to three hundred fine salmon, and that, too, by coniiuino; liis fishing to only two or three of the numerous holes to which salmon resort in that river. Even in winter Mr. Corbet has caught quantities of fine trout by cutting a hole in the ice and fishing with a hook. This gentleman owns a schooner, in which he sends the pi'oduce of the fisheries aud of the cha.so obtained by him to the Quebec market, where it commands a high price. The master of this schooner is one of many parties who are desirous of jiurehasing land and settling entirely upon the island, with Avhieh he has been connected for fifteen yciuv. Thougli all lIio rivers of Anticosti abound with the iincst salmon few of them are fished to any extent, in consequence of there being but a small number of persons residing upon the island, and those who conu' there not being prepared, and not having the right to fish in the rivers, -which, with sufficient attention aud judicious management, miglit be made almost as valuable as the best salmon rivers in Scotland, for each of whicli a rent is obtained of from five to fifteen thousand pounds sterling per annum. The markets for fish in the United States being about to be throsvu open to Canada, under the Iieciprocity Treaty, wiii soon becume quite as remunera- tive as any in Eurojjc, and will consequently raise tlie value of our river fisheries to what is obtained for the most valuable of tlio former. The porpoise fisliery, which is successfully conducted at Tadousac, at the entrance of the Saguenay, each porpoise cauglit being worth dS2o in the leather and oil wliich it is made to yield, might also be carried on at Anticosti at a considerable profit, the latter iK'ing as well situated for tlio purpose as the former. The hunting upon tlie island is of considerable value, though of far less importance than its fisheries. The animals consist of blucdc bears, martins, otters, and the silver gray, the red, the black, and sometimes tfie white fox, all of whicli are very numerous, and for the skins of which ]\lr. Corliet realises excellent prices in the Quebec market, those of the silver gray and the black fox fe(;ching from £\'j to £:2'J each. But Quebec Ijcing principally a mart for OF THE ISLAXD OK ANTICOSTI. 27 ifc tlio iirsfc time, witli ilmon, and ree of tlio Even in ■f cutting a lau owns a and of tho luimauds a uiy parties y upon tho est salmon ;lici'o being , and tlioso he rig] it to [ judicious lest salmon f from tivo narktts for to Canada, rciuunera- iiluL' of r)Ur Lblc of tlio ; Tadonsac, uiug woi'tli gilt also 1)0 cr lit'iii"- as , tlion gh of :st of blaok black, and us, !ind for ces in tho )x fetching a mart for I other and dearer markets, much higher prices would be obtained for tho Anticosti furs could they bo sent to the latter markets direct; and tliis would bo easily effected wore the settlements and establishments c.mtcmplatod in tliis article made upon the island, which would create objects there of sufficient importance to attract vessels from various parts to its shores. Tiie br .irs upon the island are quite harmless, and, living upon the rich ))erries and wild fruits, such as currants and gooseberries, wliich abound everywliere in tiu' summer and autumn, are very goo.l eating during those seasons. Deer were formerly met witii, but liavo not been recently seen there. Fortunately the island, like the country immediately north of Quebec (though they al)onnd still further north), is entirely free from wolves. There are mice-, but neither rats nor frogs; nor are there snakes or reptiles of any description. Great (luaiitities of dueks. gee.se, partridges, and other fowl, resort to the lakes upon the island, some of wliich are of a species peculiar to England : and a duck, called the ,nan[a<^:, remains about the shore all the winter. It is probable that the eider-duck, ^^•!,ieh frequents the main shore further nortli, will be found there; in wliicli case eider-down miglit be made a profitable export from'thc island. Thus, even in respect to food, Anticosti in an uncultivated state is not .so inhospitable as it is generally supposed to be: for with its iish, its beaiT' flesh, and its fowl in abundance, ^vhat aetiv.> sports- man is there who could not often obtain a meal there with his rod or witli his c:un? With so many other ivsources. it is of little conseent and the Parliament Houses cmld not be made more nnposing in a.,pearance, so far as the material is considered, than by the use of this marble in their coustructiou. It has already been used for several li-hthonses in the St. Lawrence, besides those upon the island. Both Lieut. Baddeky, ..E., who t.mched at several parts of the inland in l.^:n, and Sir Rirhara Bonnycastle, R.l'.., who latuled at th. entrance of Jupiter river in 1S4L speak of the value 0^ tlis marble. The former says "its structure is crystalline, and it's eon.eciuent lustre upon fracture is high; it is sufficiently hard to receive a -ood polish, and is sufficiently solid and massive to turn out s<,nu.\.xeellent a.shlars, .so that, whether it be desired for the c(,nstruction of a house or for its interior embellishment, it is equaliv applicable," Sir Richard Bonnycastle states, "tlie lime- stone Vut> well and looks very beautiful, being, in fact, a sort of marble" nnd adds, '"I procured some large and valuable encnnital remain^, vellow blende, and some tine whit Me, and have no d„-d)t tl,at a rich treat would be allovded to ti. lector who had lel.u-e suHieient in this vicinage." A specimen of a stone, suitable i^ the purposes of lithography, found upon the island some years ..„.o w.as placed in the museum of this society, and many specimens ofiror. ore, quartz, marble, and curious fossils have been obtained there upon various occasions. Antieosti having been evidently formod at the same period as the rest of North America, and not, Invin- been created by the alluvial deposits of the St. Lawrence, as, from its position some might suppose, there is no reason, upon its ,,,i.^ e^phnv.l bv a geologist, why some of those minerals and ores should not be found there, which are known to exist upon th,s eon- Of THi: lSt,.VNU Ul'' AXrit-'OSil. 29 hard, tliafc VVciv this do by dis- \i'e, whi'so ler in tho W) Quebec HMiii^ verj at, were it elected for \c Govern- mpDKlngiu the use n£ 11 used for ; upon the veral parts R.E., who )f tlie value talline, and itly hai'd to sive to turn ired for the ment, it is , "the limo- 3t, a soi't of le encrinital ,nd have no tor who had anc, suitable some years ly specimens t>en obtained ju evidently rica, and not Lawrence, as, son, upon its Tills and ores p;m this con- tinent. It is only very recently that coal, silver and copper have been discovered upon the western coast of Newfoundland, amonif a limeslone formation similar to tluit of Anticosti. Taken separately, the resources of Anticosti, as they are yet known, may not ap[iear so important as those of countries more favoured by careful attention, by settlement, and by a fair expendi- ture npon them of hibour and science combined, under which their resources have been partially developed; l)ut, viewed together, they cannot but be regarded, by any unprejudiced observer, as of con- siderable value, and as giving promise, upon the introduction thero of those agencies which have been successfully at work elsewhere, of becoming a source of wealtli and prosjierity to the whole province. Xo comprehensive view of the resources and capaoiiitioa of tlie island having ever been taken, is one reason why it has been so long neglected; and why, throughout its tliree thousand three hundred scpiare miles of territory, it yet gives shelter to no more than some tifteeu or twenty residents, distributed between the fishing stations of the lessee, the lighthouses and the provision posts, all of which are situated upon the south side of the island; the fishing stations being at the South-West Point, and the en- trances cf Observation and Becscle Rivers, the lighthou.ses at the East Point and the South-West Point, and the provision posts being als') at the lighthouse stations, at Shallop Creek, about half way between them, and at Ellis Bay. The state of desolation in which the island remains, is shown by the necessity for keeping up these provision posts for shipwrecked sailors, as, in former days, wells were dug, shady trees planted, and caravanserais maintained in the desert, for the relief of pilgrims and travellers by the Arab and Indian ])rii ces; but, Tinlike tlie deserts of the East (though even tliere fertile spots have been often discovered and been made to '"bloom as a rose") Anticosti has hitherto been condemned to desolation, not on account of its being inc "nble of being made to sustain a population, but because of the superficial examinations of its soil, bordering upon tlie sea shore only, which have been made from time to time, and of the reports and general rumours, based npon those e.xamluations, similar to those Tinjust popular rumouys which hiive for many years kept back many other countries, siueu gQ RESorn' !:s ant> r.M-Ar.iMTU.s „,|«l,o««'k Canada by th..v,.u.,..,t ,1,0 St. 1...U..0.. (1(1 not still ^^ 3S, and who fjUowiii',' Dxtraot is insertetl regard K.nvf.unaiand a. P"- ;;-^- ,^j,, ^ jj^ht, t;,o f.Uowi..,',' extract is msertetl look upon :cicty, here inna the n'^--= ' "'/^'■.f 1 i IHl^ and presi.UHl ovoriy Sir -Tuhu Harvey; heiaat St. JohuV, ^-e^v^ounala •; . :n ^ - ^^ ; . ,3,, „{ those .ouutric, asbeariuK upon the pas ''""'^'^''^^ " „*;^" ^ ^ utm-o progress of Autico«ti: ana upon the preseut stato '' ; ^ "'.f ^\. ,,i,,„i ,ooks, in .vhicb the .uuuc .'Travel.,voyaK^'s,lu8tor..s t^eogxap.. 3,e^ ^^^^^^_ ^^ ^^^^ ^^.^^^^^^ ,„ ,{ ^'e^vf..^Kllana is introau.ocl T ^ |^^^^^^^^ .^^ ^^j, ,,,,,, i.nprove- Boverc, aB if nature bad raised a . "^l"' ^.'^'^^^ '; ^^^ ,,j,4i,e ibat luul bocu „.ent. Little nu.ve than '-^-'y']:^^^:;;'l:^S:^,,ri^,, .oscibibty of raisin« thobaneotN^.wf.nuulaudr-;vaaea. ^o^aJ m^ ^I^^^ inhabitant., ^vas ^vhcat, barley and other f^ram for \1;.\,^,,, ,,,,,,,,, a,non,' them of ndiculedaudHcnutcda»cln.ner^A^-Um^; .t^^ ^.^^^^^^^^.^^ ^j^„ ,„„,,, ,he experience in the improved ^^^^'^^ .;,,icultural Bocietie., under the opera- people by his appeals, led tbeni t j '^ ;^';;™; ^^,,,^ ,,,,iust the .oil and Ln« o! ^vhicb the insane P^judi -tjiad bo , ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^_ ^^^^^^^^^^^_ ^^^^ climate of Kova Scotia became ^^^ ^^I^jX;^,,.,,.,,,,, ,,.,„.. ,-.u ha:, been there ever been recorded a nu^eadi^aa^^^^ ^^^^^^_^,^^^ ^,^^ ^^^^^^^^,,, ^^ witnessed in that country. ^; " ^;;^;^;^^^,,, J.itivated in many partu. north ^ova Seotia, lands ^-'"^^^'^f^'^l^'^li the inh.,bitants is now raised from ,ud .oulh; a K'reat portion of ^'f ^^-^^''^ *-; Z j^^ statistical returns in the last tbesoibandatan.oderatoealeulaionmue^on^tl^e^ta^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^_^^_^^ ^^^^^,^^^ Census, the agricultural V-auc. o^ t - -1, nd ^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^.^ ^^^^, .,j^^^.^,_^. ^ thousand pounds per '^«"""'- .,f ^l"*: "' {^,,,,,a cattle." T.e.il - n, .-..y other Davs have thirty, forty, .uid hf y \' ?'}"*, ^jj^jy^'^.^e may be qa„ted, .-ho, in authorities to the same efleet Sir ^^^"^ f^"' f^^ing ithin a mile of the his ^vork upmi Newfoundland, say.:^ ^^^-''^^ ye;u-, ui.d in this month of house I am .-riting in. It -as so.-n m tli f,ul ^^y^ ^^,, j,, April has survived all the severe alteration, of tb ^ n ri ^,^^^ i^^foundland is around St. John's, yet. beat^.^^K.^^ ^, ^ ^^^^^^ of Kevvfoundland" (opposite to Anueosti)^^_ tbe^c^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ,^^ ^^,^^^^. more rich "' ^""'"^" ";;'r;;:''jj^Jt,,„ "prince Edward's Island, and Xova Sr^Evl ^"^^oZ St "; made to supportits own population." OF THE ISLAND OF AVTICOSTI. ;'i :,ioTi, ami \ to hu it now till' vopt bark opcriiiod ml wliifli. n iiseU'^s : s« at, till' J ill spirit. ) do not still ies, and wlio ;t is insertecl ;ural Society, uliu Hiu-voy; DSC ooniitrioH, I of AnticoRti: licb the luuuc le cliinato so ural imiivove- :biit hail I'Uiiii lily of vniKint? aliitautfl, was iiiKiiig them of Im roused tlio tder llio oiiera- ist tho soil and !i0 conuti-y has !:.:m lias lieeu :;j.' cxamvh' "*' my parts, nortli low raised from Aims in tlie lust if two hundred s and i'laccntiu ' -. tiiiuy other .i.i.tcd, who, ill :i II mile of the in thi:i niontli of 3 poorest soil in tlie ^ve.stern side severe; tho laud aown to 1)0 (iiiito stand, and Xova population." Slionld properly coniluctud, ami .sulUciontly oxtond. il ;plora- tions bo made at Antieosti, and commonsurate oxertii lo ex- pended upoi: it. i-esnltH will bo produced there, sliiiilur to those •which have followed proper inquiry into, and proj)er clTorts for developing the resources of Nova Scotia and Newfoundland: a fair proportion of good a.s well as of bad land will bo discovered; the former will be made to yield every description of grain and vej.'etables which can be successfully grown in those countries, and to raise any number of cattle and sheep; while tho entire island will be made to exjjnrt, in addition to furs and tish, oil, tallow, tar, potash, dairy jiroduce, and tho finest ice from its lakes and rivers, and to supi»ort ;i large and thriving population of tishermeu, mechanics, traders and agriculturri lists. Hut; what the writer con- ceives to give more vahie to Antieosti, than its capabilities of soil and climate, or its many other resources, whether belonging to the sea, to the rivers, or to tlie land, is its position at the entrance of the St. Lawrence, in tho direct and only channel of an immense trafllc, which, within a very short period, is certainly to become vastly incrca.sed. not only by the throwing open to the Americans of tlio navigation of the St. Lawrence, under tho reciprocity treaty, recently concluded, but also by tho extension of the trade of the province to all jiarts of tho world. Whether viewed with regard to this future trade, or to the existing maritime trade of the province, v.liich is confined to England, the United States, the Lov/er I'l'ovinces and the West Indies; to the establishment of an ontrepol; ill the direct clumnel of that tratle, and of a coaling station for the tlirce lines of steamships about to run between England and (.^Hiebec; or viewed as affording the most favourable points for establishing fishing stations, and of .settlements and villages for supplying the fisliermen belonging to the island, as well as those who will be attracted to its coast lisheries from a distance, and who will be desirous to rent certain jiortions of the shore for the purpose of drying their tish there; the position of Antieosti is a most admi- liible one, and if the island were composed of nothing but roek, without soil sufficient to produce a blade of giass, its position alono would render it capable of being made of more value than the most favoured island in point of soil and climate not possessing the 32 BK80UUCES AM. CAPAriMTIEH •r « Tn rctrard cither to an entrop(*'fc 0^ ^ "'-"T ,. E>,r2 ■«> "— '-"™"'""' """ "" ""■■'■ deixV. lor .imli. ""» ""J "" .„„,li ,l.aTincUtUio.mln>na' ,eL., whether taking the north o, he »»''"; .„ ... ,„„,. „, the river-, amlhavinR « . n-" ":'';;' „^ .„ „„, the Mr .heltered part (.oeure in all »"«"' ""^J'j * „, „„ , (Jaebee „hieh ""'y • ™« "™ ' ; „ „,,. ,ai«ht a..o he ,.,tahU,he.l a. there at all t.rne.. Ucp't" , ;, f„t|,om. the S„ath We.t Point, where '"■ "^ J^^! , ,,„ „„,th.ea,t .ide „r water ch»e to the Acre; ""•! » ^"' 'J^ „,^, „,, ,,„„g,.. Tlie iilier points are ntariy «t..„niors hiive ti) maki' «,a„ tiuebee i„ which i, ahout ,i,e ^^^ - " « ,,„,.„„„ , „,„, when getting .hovt et eeai« n,.." "' •» 'J ,,„^„,. „ ,,,„ „ „.,„„, in«tanee, have ^'7 j;;™;; , r, „.a„ ^t a co.t „t „„.d„„hl.. a ...nee .,n^ >. ,,^«a, ^^_^. _^^^^^ TJ" t .e n»t have h.»t n...re .1 a r,.w honr. •" Anticorii, t,:., nti.l no. i,,,„„„ht Ii-oin I'ielou aa,l C.l.e these ,le,,-..» eoai, eoald be " '^ '^■J^^ ^,,„„ ,,,„„ K,.8h.,.,l ..s Breton, or be pn.eha*.! ^'^Z^^X^U^U., eo.i for .be ,,.,tot ""■"■'■»-«;:;^';„*^,^ ■„,„„,,,, ..t itself, ere,.te a eonshh-r- ^'"'■"'■■;'""*T,,'i4anTi,ese stealers ,,,ni.l a.» ...ke »n.e .iUlt> trallu' Willi tlie isianu. ^ . , ,, ' , pvoau... ol' the tishcvie. &c.. obta.ne.l there. Qacbee e.,..l.l be frequently kept np ■"™ .;„,,„ „„t,„„„ after ,„m ,ea ean traverse the sa.ne »1" »■ »^' \„ „,,,,,, „,. t.„ „„, sh.p fron. the h.t.cr b.s ef L„ PC ^^^^^^ „o„.hs .vonhl be virt»..lly added to the P" "^ „, "' *'^'- ^v;:r;:S,:e:::rr:i:::::.--^^ small stea.ners (for wn.ch ^ ^^,^,_^.^ ^,„.,,„, -"■""'■■"'"''r^ryrinU ti tZ. they ean arrive at or .,+ ori.i ilepavfc later irom, ^"i . , , i -=a in fUscbarfo OF TItF, ISLANIi (iK ANIHtiSlI, 33 ropot or a for ovtii'y 10 tmtmnco in its >n»3* r, tho tiuc ■r iiiul luy ablished at T) fiitliomn th-east Hide anohoragf. to EhkI'i"'' (ve to nuikf uropo ; nii'l :^vf to run li at a cost of ictl them at hour.s. 1'''"' ,u ami Capo a Englaiui iis coal for ilit' 3 a considi'i- so take soiiH- ])UVpOSO of Kiivopt' in t lie etween it and < before ships . autumn after weeks or two [uii navigation 1 sehooners or rywhore) could [ arrive earlier n arrive at or ,ge to diHchargo sti, could easily make three voynf.'eH instead of two. By doing ho thoy would avoid tho worHt part of tlu; present voya^o (from Capo llnsior to t^uohee) ; woidd serun- six wicks or two montlis more of open navigation, and, in tlio ttireo voyages, K.iild save two tliousaud tivo liundred miies. W'ssels also which, coming out lato in the autumn, aro Hometinu'M obliged, after reaching tho gulf, to run back to porta in the Lower I'rovinees and winter there, having to continue their voyage oil to Quebec in tlu- spring, would avoid the loss of at'out six mouths by being able to unload and olitain a cargo at Antieosti. Although tho Ualtic can be navigated by tho largest ships, yet tho trade of that sea ia generally carried on by small vessels in con- sequence of tho dangers which exist there to tho former; and, so in the gulf and River St. Lawrence, tiiert aro an immense number nf stuall craft employed in all [)arts, and at tlu; earliest and latest I' liods, among which we seldom hoar of a wreck occurring, while yenr after year numerous Quebec traders (of from 500 to 2,000 tons burden) are cast ashore in the river this side of Antieosti before re.'iciiing it, or after having passed it in safety, and an iinmense amount of property is (U^stroycd. Tlic comparative immunity from ilisaster of the former is to bo attributed to tho intimate knowledge ol the navigation of tho gulf and river possessed by masters of colonial vessels constantly employed in the same water.s, in addition to tlieir vessels being adapted for taking slielter in the numerous rivers and creeks which exist along the eoasts both of the river and gulf, where for long distances largo vessels can obtain no safe anehorage. Only last summer a Liverpool vessel for Quebec was «lriven from her anchors at Bic, which is considered to be about the best anchorage in the river, and was stranded upon Rimouski. It cannot therefore but be allowed that it might bo advantageous to employ to some extent small colonial cratt within the river for such commodities as they could conveniently carry. Among the exports from tho Province they could easily take deals and boards, staves, I'lit and pearl ashes, flour and grain of all descriptions, pork, fish and furs, Ac, and, with the exception of maciiinery and railroad iron, all articles of import landed at Antieosti could be as easily brnught by them to Quebec. This would partly upset tlie present system, and, perhaps, be unpopular with tlu merchants of Quebec 34 RESOU!!Cr.S AS\> CAI'MIIMT! i::< but many slupownoi-s and ship masters, with several of whom the writer 1ms eonvorscl upon the subject, would lie highly in favor of it, and would never send a ship to Quebec whenever she could obtain a cargo at Anticosti. And if underwriters and shippers, here and in England, could be shown that goods conveyed in this manner ^vould not be liable to one-tenth the risks to wiilch they are now osnosed; that not one-teuti: o! the proseui number of wrecks w.-uld (.;?eur, and that at a moderate cost harbours lit for the largest trade could be made at Ellis Bay and the South West Point, they also would gladly lend their aid to carry out such an arrange- ment. As for the proprietors of the island, they, no doubt, wouhl most readily give their assistance to that which would make their property worth, in the market, twenty times its present value there. Thus bv combining the interests and the means of many (who as yet have no knowledge that their interests may be made identical) towards establishing such a system of commercial intercourse as that which has been pointed out, the undertaking might be accom- plished, notwithstanding any difficulties ^vhieh other parties might, oppose to it. It would not depend upon whether the latter would favour it or not, but whether those, having an interest in carrying it out, could, by organisation, by economy of management, and by .steadiness of purpose, place and maintain a sutTicient quantity of well-selected articles upon the island, and be able to dispose of them at about the same rate as that at which they would be sold in the markets to which they might properly l)elong. For the inter- colonial trade of the St. Lawrence, the island might be made a con- venient centre from whence the whole of it could be easily island may then almost become sucli a mart as the ancient Tapi-obana (the Ceylon of the present day) was in regard to t!ie trade between China, India, the Persian Gulf, Arabia and Africa, when " she received and dismissed the fleets of the East and of the West " ; her position alone enabling her to extract more wealth from that trade than was derived from it by the countries to which it properly belonged. Since the foregoing was written, the writer has visited the island which he has endeavoui'cd to represent as it appeared to him, after an examination and a comparison of every authority bearing upon it, and an inquiry into its present condition, of nearly every person now residing, or who has lately resided there. He will now, therefore, add tho result of his own observations, made upon the spot. Having taken passage at Quebec about tho middle of July in the steamer " Wilmington," which was sent to Anticosti with tht> object of assisting a sliip wrecked last November about twelve miles from Ellis Bay, (which had remained there ever since, almost uninjured by the ice or storms of an unusually severe winter) ho visited that bay as well as the South West Point three 36 rESODRCES AMD CAPABILrTIES times, and was upon the south side of the island for about three ■weeks. He also twice visited Gaspo Basin. At Ellis Bay the steamer ran in for shelter upon each occasion, and upon the last remaiucd there iov three days. She anchored about two miles up the harbour in 3^ fathoms at low water, about a mile distant from the shore upon either side, and a mile and a half from the head of the bay, which appeared to be, from point to point, (Cape Henry to Cape Eagle) from eight to nine miles round. Upon looking out from this position towards the sea, every appearance of the most complete securit}- was presented, the limestone reefs from the two points stretching out south-east and south-west towards each other* the one a mile, the other three quarters of a mile in length, and forming complete breakwaters, quite uncovered at low water, and which, being covered to only a very slight depth at any time, stop the force of the sea even at high water, as was indicated by the surf which they then caused, as the waves broke upon them, and Avhich clearly directs ships to the channel between them, of six hundred fathoms wide. This channel, too, is much protected by the water shoaling immediately outside to six fathoms, whicli although deep enough to admit the largest vessels, tends to break the force of the sea. This was experienced upon one occasion, when, in a heavy southerly gale, the steamer ran in from a tre- mendous sea outside, in which .she pitched nearly bow-.sprit under, and anchored in water almost as smooth as a mill pond. To all on boai'd the almost sudden cessation of violent motion appeared as extraordinary as it proved agreeable. The same afternoon a large American schooner ran into the bay for shelter, and anchored nearly a mile outside the "Wilmington" in perfect safety, where r lie rcmaJned. till the gale abated the following morning. During the several periods the steamer lay in this harbour, heavy winds wei'e experienced from every quarter, yet she rode through all as calmly as if she had been moored in front of Quebec, and in the .spot where she was anchored, nothing less than such a hurricane as would cast vessels adrift and sink them, either in the harbour of Quebec, or in the Livci-pool docks, could affect a vessel there. Mr. Gainaclie, who has resided for twenty five years at the pro- vision post at this bay, informed the writer that the harbour was OF THE ISLAND OF ANTIC08TI. 37 perfectly secure in all winds and at all periods, that, besides other vessels, the " Sir Richan Jackson," of about GOO tons burthen, had twice lain there for several months each time, and that her captain had said it was as safe a harbour as any ho had ever entered. Mr. Gamache has, himself, built two vessels there of a considerable size. A gentleman on board the "Wilmington," a member of Lloyds, who had come out from England, and had chartered the steamer to pi'occed to the wreck at the island, and -vvho had been three times round the world as Captain of an East India Company's ship, declared that he considered the harbour " a most excellent one ; " so much so that he should on his return to England make it specially known at Lloyds. But, as some persons who have never been in Ellis Bay, or have not been there when there were heavy seas out- side, imagine that it must be exposed to southerly winds, the following extract is given from tlie log of the "Wilmington," which should convince tliem of their conclusion in this respect being an erroneous one: — "Monday, 2nd August, 1854, — It looking very wild and bleak to south-west with heavy rain and quick flashing lightning and thunder, proceeded direct to Ellis Bay. It then blowingstrong fromsonth-south-east withrainand sea rolling in with a thick fog, kept the lead going, and went along the coast in sight of breakers, seeing them when we coiild not see tlie land. Made out Capo Eagle by 9 a.m., rounded its armed (protecting) reef, sounded lip the bay, and came to with lx)th anchors by 0.40 a.m. — 3 p.m., wind south, blowing strong and about right up the bay. We ride smoothly and safe. Coming in between the reef.s there is a swell, which might make a stranger fear the safety of his ship, but as you run up the l)ay it becomes less, and at anchorage smooth riding and good holding ground." This, and the fact of a sailing vessel having run in for shelter the same afternoon, when the wind had increased in violence, not only show the safety of the harbour during the worst winds (and as the steamer made for it upon this occasion, Captain Rudolph and his officers exclaimed that its security would be well tested in such weather) but they also prove how easy it is of access under the worst circumstances: a strong southerly wind i)lowiug directly in, a heavy sea outside, and a thick fog. Though ♦ he latter apparently continued out at sea, when once in the bay 38 RESOCECES AND CAPABIMTIES * ■ [' ■ ■ \. .i •■ ;" i'y i _ ■ ■ . t ■ '. '. ■'- .' there was only a slight haze perceived. The thickest fog, however, encountocl during the cruise, was in coming up the river from Metis to Green Island. .\t Anticosti, although there were occa- sional fogs, it was often clear enough to see across to the south shore, a distance of forty miles. Much might be added here in favour of Kllis Bay as a harbour, but the fact of such vessels as the " Sir Richard Jackson " having been repeatedly there in all weathers, without any of them being cast ashore or having dragged their anchors, should be sutticient. No instance has over occurred of a craft of any description having dragged her anchors, or been injured there in any way; and Ca])taiu Rudolph stated that the "Wilmington"' would have ridden just as safely with a .single anchor as with two. As the underwriter on board, belonging to Lloyd's, remarked, there are many places in England and other countries, carrying on a lai'ge maritime commerce, which have not 80 spacious, so deep, or so safe a harbour as Ellis Bay. The appearance of the shores of this bay has been already pretty accurately described. They are generally thickly wooded with spruce trees of a better growth than those near the sea upon otlier parts of the island, and on the higher ground in the distance a good many hard wood trees were seen of a still larger size. A conspicuous and picturesque clump of birch trees stood out from the spruce close to the shore, one of which the writer measured at five feet from the ground, where he found it to be five feet in circum- ference, its height appearing to the eye to be almost sixty feet. The five substantial buildings of the resident are very prettily placed near one of the three or four fine trout streams, which flow into the bay, where he has several acres cleared and divided by excellent fences, and where he had growing and looking remark- ably healthy, every description of vegetables and some fine timothy grass. The potatoes tliere were looking more advanced than they were at Quebec, when the steamer left the latter place a few days previously. The soil, tliough not very deep, appeared to be very good, consisting of dark loam, with sand and gravel below ; and there is little doubt that it could easily bo made to produce some of the hardier grains ; to ripen which, or even wheat, there must be quite sufficient heat, the thermometer upon one or two occasions OF THK ISLANO 01' AyTICOSTI. 39 during the " Wilmington's " stay there being as high as 81° in the shade and 105° in the sun, and at no time going lower than between 50" and 00° during the three weeks the steamer continued in the neighbourhood of the island. Round the bay many beautiful wild flowers were seen; also the sarsaparilla plant and the sweet pea; and on the beach the writer picked up a piece of sponge, which had been detached from the bottom by the action of the sea. The salmon- trout in the river near tlie resident's house were so numerous that they miglit almost have been caught by the hand as they moved in shoals from one part to another upon being disturbed by the sailors who attempted to take them with buckets. Quantities were obtained and found to be delicious eating. A number of very fine salmon were also purcluised of the resident, whose assistant happened to enter the bay with fifty he had just caught in the Becscic River in the course of about an hour, and several large lobsters were taken in the bay and sent on board. But what appeared of extraordinary interest to those in the steamer was the sight every day when the tide was out of some three or four hundred seals sleeping or playing i-ound tlie bay, generally entirely out of but near the water, and some of them occasionally swimming close lo the vessel, whose round heads looked very much like those of a human being. One of them the resident mentioned he had killed a short time previously upon thu step of his door. The bay must therefore be a favourite resort of theirs. A great many whales, at least fifty, were also seen between the islaiid and Gaspe, and several between the former and Bic, each of which must have been worth from £"200 to £-100, yet only one vessel was met with or heard of in pursuit of them — a large schooner from Gaspe. Both the whale and seal fisheries could be carried on much more conveniently from Ellis Bay than fi-om the former, or from any other place within the gulf. With this sheltered spot everybody on board the steamer was much pleased — from the excellency of its harbour, the mviting appearance of the country around it, and the objects of interest which were met with there; and even the sailors expressed a desire to take up their abode upon its shores. One sailor, who had belonged to a vessel wrecked upon the island last November, and who had wintered there, became so charmed with the place that 10 RESdCRCKS AND CAPABILITIKS he had ah-eady become a permanent I'esident, employing himself in fishing and liunting; and the captain and the whole crew of a ship that went ashore in a fog about eight miles from Ellis T?!iy, when the steamer was in the iiarbour, infonned the writer that if they conld obtain land there they would send to Hull, whence they had sailed, for tiieir families, and settle on the island in a body. At the South West Point, whei-e the steamer could have run close up to the shore and been moored to the flat limestone rocks which form natural wharves, the five or six buildings, including a very large stage and storeliouso for lisli, were so disposed near tiie magnificent lighthouse, which towers abovn all, as to present quite the appearance of a village, Upon landing this appearance was rather heiglitened than diminished, as a number of fine fields, neatly divided by straight fences, in which were growing very luxuriantly many vegetables and grasses, came in view, and a horse and four tine cows, all in excellent condition, were seen feeding upon a common close by. Added to these indications of civilized life were a number of fowls in all directions among the houses' and several fat pigs venturing further back, to rob the bears of the rich berries and wild fruits which abounded there. Near to the landing place two persons were employed in cut- ting up a Iiuge shark, wliich had just been caught, having, no doubt, been enticed out of his usual latitude by the shoals of fish wliich proceed from the Atlantic towards the island. The same day immense qmmtities of mackerel were seen close under the point upon which the light- house stands. By their praiseworthy exertions, Mr. Pope and his son have shown what may be aci-omplished by well-directed industry in places, appar- ently the most unpromising; for this spot must bo about the bleakest n])on the whole island, being completely exposed to the north-west winds. Last year they grew most excellent oats, and next year they purpose to grow both oats and barley, seed for the latter of which the writer has just sent to them. Some of their potatoes of last year, of the few they had remaining, which the writer brought to Quebec, weighed three to the pound, and some of this year's growth, taken out of the ground on the 5th September, and sent to the writer, are of a still larger size, and of an equally OF TIIK 1>I,AN1' 01' ANTIi'dSTI. 41 lino description. If there wore a few more industrious and intelli- t^ent settlors upon the island, like Mr. Popo and his family, who aro the most deserving people that could be met with, it would soon obtain a very dillercut character, in regard both to climate and soil, than has hitherto been accorded to it. The first frost which appeared this year at the South West Point, Mr. Pope, in a letter to the writer says, took place on the 27th August, but was not sufTiciunt to do the slightest injury to his potatoes: at Quebec the tops of the potatoes were blackened by fi-ost about the same time, 'i'lie soil at the South West Point has been already described ; but tlie writer penetrated about two miles into the woods there, where lie found the soil very similar to that in many parts of Canada in the original forest, deep with vegetable deposits, without stones or a particle of rock to be perceived. At Gaspe, with a less genial soil and climate, the v riter saw several fields of excellent wheat. The trees, -which, near the sea at the point, were about a foot high and spread out their tops like mitshrooms, improved gradually, but rapidly, as he entered the woods, and at a distance of a mile back, were sixty or seventj' feet high. This alone would indicate the existence of large and valuable timber in the interior; but he was informed by all whom he saw on the island, that quantities of such timber Avere to be met with in many parts. A number of pieces of particularly fine grained tamarack he saw piled up with some other wood near the light-hnuse; and the fire-wood, wiiich the steamer procured, both at the South West Point and at Ellis Bay, proved to be much better than that obtained at Gaspe, or at any part of the south shore of the St. Lawrence where the steamer took in fuel. After being three times in the bay at the South West Point, and examining the greater portion of it, and, after having been caught in a north-west gale there, which obliged the steamer to run out to sea, the Captain of the "Wilmington," who has a good knowledge of the construction of hai-bours of refuge, and who j)roved himself to be a thorough seaman upon several trying occa- sions, declared that, at an expense of £2,000, he could build a breakwater upon the reefs running out from the point, which would render the bay a secure shelter in all winds for the largest vessels. A harbour could also, probably be made at Salt Lake Baj-, about -i: liKbUUliCKa ANIJ CAl'AlilLini; I eight miles further to the cast. As at Hills Hay, many wild flowers and fruits, and the sarsaparilla were mot with at the South West Point; also a plant, rosemlilini,' the cotton plant, and the reindeer moss. The cranberries, which arc very numerous in certain parts of the island, niii^ht be made profitable exports, as they ai'e at the Magdalen Islands, and Prince Edward's Island, whence many barrels arc sent to the United States, where they ;iro (;ag('rly pui'cliased. At the jiresent time cranberries are selling in Montreal for l:is. a bushel. Jlr. Pope mentioned that Admiral Cofiin touched at the South West Point in the early jjart of the summer, and after making many inciuiries about the island, said that it could be made to j)roduce anything which can be grown in Canada. The finest clay soil, however, appears to be found upon the banks of Observation River, (the sccner}- at the entrance of which was very beautiful, as viewed from the steamer as she passed) and also on the north side of the island, where there arc many spots among the hills, sheltered entirely from easterly and n(n'th-west winds; those ])arts having been pointed out to the writer by persons acquainteil with them, as containing the richest soil of that des- cription on the island, so far as it is yet known. But it is very evident that not one tentli of t le island has ever been explored, or even traversed, the huntei's and lishermc:, and others who have ever been upon it, having confined the'i' excursions to the sea shore and the priucijial rivers, hardly ever venturing any distance back from the latter. Like all countries, Anticosti must contain much bad land as well as good, and the former might be supposed to prevail along the shore,' where, in some parts, there are quaking bogs, like tliose of Ire- land, (which, however, may be drained and turned into the richest soil) and a good deal of rock; but wliether the good or the bad land predominate to any extent throughout the island, there can be no means of ascertaining, witliout a thorough survey of the interior. That much good laud, besides those fertile spots which have been pointed out by the various parties referred to in this communication, is likely to be discovered by such a survey, the writer is now enabled to show upon one of the higliest authorities existing ujjon this continent : namely that of Professor J. Hall, Palaaontologist of the New York State geological survey, and author of the " Paloe- OF THE ISLAND OF ANTICOSTI. 43 ontology of New York," who, having examineil a number of fossils brought from Anticosti by the writer, among which he discovered a new species, described tlicra in writing, and added the following lines as to the conclusions whicii may bo drawn in regard to the island from thoir jresence there: "The specimens indicate the occurrence of limestone beds with alternations of shale, and the decomposition of these .vul furnish a productive soil inconsequence of the abundance of calcareous matter." These specimens, and some others, which tliey had not time to properly examine at the moment, both Professor Hall and our own talented and indefatigable geologist, Mr. Logan, considered so interesting, that they expressed themselves strongly to the writer upon the importance of tlie Government undertaking a thovougli geological survey of the island, with the object of making discoveries tliere whicli would give it an eco. .oniic value. A specimen of the marble brought from the island obtained the first prize at the recent Provincial Exhibition held at Quebec. As Anticosti belongs to a number of persons, some of them re- siding in Canada and others in England, who are not likely to combine in any comprehensive plan for developing its resources, but wlio would no doubt be prepared to dispose of their interest in it at a reasonable price, it is to bo desired that, either the Government, or some public company in Canada or England, or one belonging to both countries, sliould purchase the island, and expend sufficient means, which the present proprietors could not afford, in turning its resoiirces to account. Of tiie two, a company, whicli could enter into the several undertakings glanced at in this com- munication, would be the more suitable for the purpose; but the field may bo made to embrace so many, and such varied objects, that it could well give employment to several distinct companies. There might then be a colonization company, a fishing company, and a commercial company; the first purchasing the whole island, and selling, or leasing to the others, those portions of the coast at which the operations of the latter could be most conveniently carried on. A thorough survey, however, of the whole island might be well undertaken by the Government in the ?; fnr, altliou'rh i1 bclon'i's to private individuals, it is of mean •14 RKSOURCKS ASU rAI-AIUMTIi;S the highest public importance, for many reasons which must suggest themselves in tho course of this communication, that tho island should not be allowed to continue in its present state of desolation; besides which, every largo addition made to the in- habited seaboard of the St. Lawrence, must materially increase the commerce, the shipping, and the wealth of the province. Noi'K. — Since the date of Mr. Roche's Papti- u, Geological F' I'vey has been made of the Island by Mr. Richardson. Kxtracts from his Report are appended. OF THE ISLAND OK ANTKXiSJI. 45 APPENDIX. EXTEACTS FROM REPORT FOli TllK YKAR 1850, MR. JAMES RICHARDSON, EXPLORER, ADDUESSED TO SIR WILLIAM E. LOGAN, PROVINCIAL GEOLOlilST. Mo.VTRKAi,, l-d Miurh, 1857. Sir, Agreeably to the instructions received frum you in June last to proceed to the Island of Anticosti, for tlie purpose of obtaining information regarding its geology, I left Montreal on the last day of the month, and embarked with my assistant, provisions and field equipment, tho following day at Quebec. While the men were preparing our boat, and re-arranging our pro- visions for an excursion round the island, I commenced the work oi the season by a careful record of the rocks in the neiglibourhoocl, ascertaining tho thickness by actual measurement where exposed, -iti i!i;sociti'i:s ani> (.'AI'ai;i!.i in > ;uul hy fi reputation uhurt' concealed. Wluui iiiUL'ticalil*', collections t>f fo.H.sils wciv iniule, iind tlicir strntif^i'niiliii'nl atul f^CD^rapliical l)ositii)n.^ nrordt'd. On the 2<3nl July 1 left tlie west end, tin iiU'U prneecdiii<; witli tliu boat and pruvisiona to Giuuaelie nr Kills Hay, whi'u 1 fullowcij oil foot: nt Gamaclic Hay i was able t') j)i'iiLHaro ii Pinall boat, wliieli was of preat advantnye in racilitatiiiir inv wot'k, and b}' means of it 1 was enabled to examine tlie coast and eoll'i't speiMineiis all the way to Soutl'-wc^t Point. On tl'o 1-ltli Au,tfn.-( we loft South-west Point, and 1 continued tny examiuatiou to the oust end of the island, and then along die .loi'tli ci>ast ; le.xauiini':! the east end of the island, a dista.ico of nearly fifty miles. Arrived at Charlotoii I'oint, on the litli September, petting to (he west end of the island on the "J'ind Sentciiibei'. A few day.s were spent in examining the rociss in that neighbourhood, and makiup measurements, so as to determiui' more minutely the thickuesso.> of the strata. J5ut fev, excursions were made into the interior of the island; th(>y t-onsistvd of one at Otter River, for about two miles up; another in the ueighV)ourhood of South-west Point, to the distaner of a mile and a-half ; a tliird at Salmon River, for five miles inland; another at Nugp River; ami a lifth by Air. Kaston my Assistant, to -.Marl Luke, threcquartors of a mile. (Jn the ;30th September wi' left the ishiiid in the steamer Doris, for Quebec, with forty boxes and barrels of fossils, and reached Quebec on the 4th October. On my ti>ar of the coast of Antieosti, T met \vith nmeh attention and personal kindness from all the ot'icers in charge of the govcrn- Hieut lighthouses and provision statmns. In searching for hands to aid me in my work, some difficulty was experienced to procure men acquainted with the coast, notwith- standing that considerable wages were oil'ered; 1 f(mnd none that had been round any considerable portion of the north side, and an opinion appeared to prevail among such as had been for years on the island, iu regard to that part, that was anything Imt eueourag- mg. , i;ev seemei 1 to I )C under the same delusion r(-«pecting the i l-l,AM' (ir .'.Mlrn.-,'!. i; north-past csiiHt of Antit'osti that tlioso al, a greater distance ai'<.> in respect to tlie wholo ot' it. Since ray return I Iiavo had mi opportunity of reading an article on tho rosourccH and capabilitioH of tlio island, liy Mr. Roche, imh- lishc'd in tlio Transactions of the Mteriiry and Historical Society of (^ueltec, in IH.V); and in so far as I am nnahled to jndgt', tind it a correct and nncxaggeratcd statement of facts. ''kartictir cj the Coiuitri/ and Coast. A f^'reat part of the coast Inis a belt of reel's tliat are dry at low water, wiiilo titpy arc covered according to the state of t!io tide at various depths ut higli water. Those reefs are composed of the argillaceous limestone of the island, and extend out from tho Klioro usually from a f[iiarter of a mile to II niilo ; and in onti or two instances, to .about a mile and a hiiir. From tho west end, ilu- reefs arc continuous on the south side U> St. -Mary's River, for ahout six miles to the east of which, doep water prevails close in shore; from this the reefs again extend (o South-west Point, witli the exception of a mile before retching it, and a mile on each sid(> of Jupiter River. From South-west Point they run about four miles to the east, be--' nd w!;ic!i, i > l;o:i Rivci'. onlv a fi'W points were observed where ' jxisted; but from Iroi: i'liver to Heath Point, and for two milc.^ north-east of it they are very general. On the north side, deep wrvter prevails elose in towards tlie ' 'i.as f'ar as Observation Bay; but from Observation Bay to th(^ ,1 t end, reefs arc well marked, with the ex-^eption ot about a uile, rounding North Point. Ti: south side of the island, in its general aspect, is low; the most I levated points close on this coast are at the mouth of Jnpiter River, where cliffs rise on the cast side to rhe height nf from eiglity 1 1 ;i hundred feet; and <>n the west side to a hundred and fifty feet. On no other [lart of tho south coast were they obsci-ved to rise more than from tliirry to sixty feet, bat trie genera! height ubove the sea is from ten to twenty feet. ■.l!S KKSOLKL'KS AM) CAl'AlliLl I Its From South-Avest Point to the west end, the hills inland are more elevated tlian they are to the eastward; in general they rise gradually and more continuously from the shore, attaining the height of from a hundred and fifty to two hundred and fifty feet, at about the distance of from one to three miles. From this however are to be excepted certain localities on the coast, where plains are met with having a superficial area of from a hundred to a thousand acres underlaid by peat, partly bare of vegetation, but over con- siderable spaces, supporting a heavy growth of wild grass from four to five feet high. From u position a few miles east of South-West Point to Wreck Bay, which is at the east end of the island, between Heath Point and East Point, the elevation of the coast above high water is from seven to fifteen feet, with the exception of the neighbourhood of South Point and Cormorant Point, which rise to the height of from twenty to thirty feet on the shore; but very little rise takes place inland for from one to three miles, and tin's flat surface is bounded to tlie north by a gradual slope, rising to the height of from one liundred to two hundred feet, probably becoming more elevated still further inland. The whole of the north side of the island is a succession of ridge- like elevations of from 200 to .500 feet above the sea. separated liy d(!prcssions. From English Head, three miles east from the west end to West Cliff, a distance of fifty-eiglit miles in a straight line, each successive ridge and valley occupies a breadth of from four to six- miles; the ridg(\s form a somewhat rounded end, facing the sea on the north; tlicir rise is first well marked at from a quarter of a mile to a mile from the shore, and in about a mile more inland, they attain their greatest elevation; continuing this elevation to tlie south and widening, they narrow the intermediate valley, until as far as known, the country becomes in appearance of a gently undulating character. ISIaoastey Ridge or Mountain, eleven miles east from tlio west end, rises upwards of four hundred feet at about a mile inland. High Cliff, eighteen miles further east, is probably 500 feet, one (juarterof a mile from the shoi-e; these arc in some respects the most conspicuous ridges. High Cliff is a bohl head-land, while OF XUK ISLAND UF AN'1'1C0.->1 1. 4U Macastey Mountain is separated by a broadei' valley than usual from its neighbour to the east, and is higher than any other to the west. Macastey Mountain is a conspicuous object when viewed even fi-om the south side of tlie island, in the neighbourhood of Ellis, or Gamache Bay; sailing up this natui-al harbour, it is observed in front a little to the right about five or six miles distant. The succession of ridge and valley, from English Head all the way to West Clilf, is regular and characteristic, and produces a pleasing and beautiful effect. From West Cliff to Observation J?ay, a distance of about twenty miles, there is a similar succession, but on this part the ridges rise to their full elevation nearer to the shore. West Cliff rises immediately over the sea to an elevation of between 200 and 400 feet. Charleton Point has an elevation of 100 feet over the sea, and a quarter of a mile inland rises to between 300 and 400 feet ; from Charleton Point to Observation Bay the coast is somewhat lower, Observation Bay forming r.u indentation on the coast of a mile and a quarter deep, and five miles across : from the head of this bay a well marked valley bears S. 10° W. From (Jbservation Bay to Gull Cape, a distance of fifty- three miles, the cliffs become more prominent on the coast, rising almost perpendicularly at the points to the height of from 100 to 300 feet ; and the indentiitions arc more numerous, producing more sharply defined valleys. Between Bear Head and Capo Robert, a distance of five miles and n-half, the greatest indentation from a straight line is about a mile and a-h.alf ; but this is subdivided into Easton Bay, Tower Bay, and White Bay, the last being the largest. Salmon River Bay, east fi'om Cape Henry, is five miles wide, and its greatest depth is one mile. Salmon River runs through a well- marked valley, of which the general bearing up-stream is S. 05*^ W. for nearly six miles, where a transverse valley, in the bearing N. 77° AV. and S. 77° E. (about parallel with the coast) meets it, and gives it two streams r inking from opposite directions. From I ho middle of the valley tlijland gradually rises on each side to iho height of from 400 to 450 I'eet, and the bed of the valley must rise .50 i;esoui;ck,s anu (.'ArAiiiuxiKs pretty fast; for tlumgh tlio current of tlio stream is witliout le.ip^, it is rather rapid. Prinsta JJay, farther east, is an indentation of about one mile in depth, with a width of a mile and a-lialf; perpendicular clitfs surround this bay to tlio height of from 100 to 150 feet, except at the very head, where two creeks cut througli the rock. On the west side of Prinsta Bay is dpe James, loO feet in height ; and on tiie east is Table Head. Table Head has a face of from 150 to 1(50 feet perpendicular, and gains almost at once an additional height, from the summit of which there is a gradual descent on the opposite side, the surface foriaing on that side a rough outline to the A^alley through which Fox River passes to Fox Bay, which affords the second important liarbour on the Island. The upward course of the valley of the Fox River is X. 7-2= W. From Fox point on the west side of the bay to Gull Cape, up- wards of a mile on the east side, there is a distance of six miles, in which the coast is low. Fox Point, the highest part of this, not being more than from thirty to forty feet above the sea. From Gull Cape to Wreck Bay, a distance of eleven miles, the cliffs arc in general perpendicular, and from lOO to 130 feet high, gaining but little elevation inland, probably not over 100 feet, while the surface back from tliem gives as far as observed, a slightly rolling country. Excepting the valley of Jupiter River, there are no well defined valleys on the south side of the island. In respect to the soil of the Island, the i)lains on the south side, as has been stated, are composed of peat, but the general vegetation of the country is supported by a drift composed for the m.ost part of a calcareous clay, and a light grey or brown coloured sand. The elements of the soil would lead to the conclusion of its beino- a O good one. The most abundant tree is spruce, in size varying from eight to eighteen inches in diameter, and from forty to eiglity feet in length. On the north coast, and in some parts of the south, it is found of good size in tlie open woods close by the beach, without any inter- vening space u£ stunted growth ; the stunted growth was occasiou- ally met with on the north side, but it is only on the tops of cliffs, OK THE ISLAND OF AXTICOSXr. 51 and other places exposed to the sweep of the heavy coast winds, where spruce, or any other tree on the ishmd is stunted. In these situations there is oftentimes a low, dense, and almost impenctrahle barrier of stunted spruce, of from ten to twenty feet across, and rarely exceeding a hundred feet; beyond which open woods and good comparatively lai'ge timber prevails. Pine was ob.served in the valley of the Salmon River, about four miles inland, where ten or twelve trees that were measured gave from twelve to twenty inches in diameter at the base, with heights varying from sixty to eighty feet. AVhite and yellow birch are common in sizes from a few inches to two feet in diameter at the base, and from twenty to fifty feet high. Balsam-fir was seen, but it was small and not abundant. Tamarack was observed, but it was likewise small and scarce.* One of our men, however, who is a hunter on the island, informed me he had seen groves of this timber north from Ellis, or Gamacho Biiy, of which some of the trees were three feet in diameter, and over a hundred feet in height. Poplar was met with in groves, close to the beach, on the north side of the island. Of fruit-bearing trees and shrubs, the mountain-ash, or rowan, was the lai'gcst; it attains the height of forty feet, with long ^'■«-tending and somewhat slender branches, covered with clusters of M.it. The high cranberry pi'oduces a largo and juicy fruit, and is . handant. A species of gooseberry bush of from two to three feet high is met with; the fruit is very good and resembles in taste the garden beri-y ; the shrub appeared to be very prolific. Red and black currants are likewise abundant. Strawberries are found near the beach ; in size and flavour they are but little inferior to the gai-den fruit ; they are most abundant among the grass in the openings, and tin u- season is from the middle of July to the end of August. Five or six other kinds of fruit-bearing plants were observed, some of which might be found of value. The low cranbcnw was seen in one or two places in some abundance. * Speciinous brought from Auticosti ia Irf.Sj, measure in ilinnictor aa follows — Tamarack 27iii., Juniper 2Sin,, Pine 2oii:,, Yellow Birch lOiu., Spruce 23in. 52 KE.SOGIK.KiS AND CAI'ABIMTI i;S The most surprising part of the natural vegetation was a species of pea which was found on the beach, and in open spaces in the woods; on the beach the plant, like the ordinary cultivated ficld-pca, often covered spaces from a quarter of an acre to an acre in extent ; the stem and the leaf were large, and the pea suificicntly so to be gathered for use ; the straw when recpiired is cut and cured for feed for cattle and horses during the winter. JJut little is yet known of tlio agricultural capabilities of tho island ; the only attempts at cultivation that have been made are at Gamache Bay, South-west Point, and Heath Point. On the •22nd July potatoes were well advanced, and in healthy condition at Gamache Bay. At South-west Point, Mr. Pope had about three acres of potatoes planted in rows three feet apart ; ho informed me he expected a yield of GOO bushels, and at the time of my arrival on the 5th of August, the plants were in full blossom, and covered the ground thoroughly ; judging from the appearance they seemed the finest patch of potatoes I had ever seen. About half-an-acre of barley was at tho time commencing to ripen ; it stood about four feet high, with strong stalk and well filled ear. 1 observed oats in an adjoining patch ; these had been late sown, being intended for winter feed for cattle ; their appearance iudicated a large yield. On the day of my arrival at Heath Point, the 23rd August, I accompanied Mr. Julyan about a mile from the light-house, to a piece of ground composed of yellowish-brown loam, which he had cleared in the wood, and planted about the middle of June with potatoes and peas; of the potatoes he procured a bucket-full of good size and middling good quality. The peas were in blossom, yet a few pods were found to be fit for use. In this patch J discovered three ears of bald wheat, the seed of which had been among the peas when .sown ; they were just getting into blossom, and probably would ripen; the ear was an average size, and the straw about three and a half feet high, I observed frost only on-e; it was on the 18th September, but not sufficiently severe to do injury to growing crops; and I was informed by Mr. Julyan that tho lowest temperature of the previous winter was only seven degrees of Fahrenheit below zero. m OF THE ISLAND OF ANTICOSTI. 58 During the three months of my stay on the island, fogs prevailed for ten days ; Mr. Pope told me it was an unusual occurrence. I observed that frequent openings in the fog were seen towards the land, leading to the idea that it was less dense in the interior. I observed some cattle at South-west Point, belonging to Mr. Pope and Mr. Corbet; they appeared to be in good condition, although they had been left to provide for themselves in the wood openings, or along the shore. A horse belonging to 3Ir. Pope was in equally good condition. Harbours. Gamache or P]llis Bay and Fox Bay are the only two harbours on the island that are comparatively safe in all winds ; the former is eight and a half miles from W'^st-end Lighthouse, on the south side; the latter is fifteen miles from Heath Point Lighthouse, on the north side. From Cape Eagle to Cape Henry, across the mouth uf Gamache Bay, the distance is two miles, with a breadth of deep wa.er of three-ciuarters of a mile, extending up the bay a mile and a-half, while the depth of the indentation is two miles and a-half. Fox Bay is smaller, and has less depth of water than Gamache Bay. The distance across its mouth is a mile and a-half, with half-a-mile of deep water in the centre, extending up the bay nine-tenths of a mile; the whole depth of the indentation being one mile and two- tenths. These two harbours occur in the same geological forma- tion, while the rock presents a very regular and comparatively level surface, over which a road could be easily constructed from one harbour to the other, the distance being 120 miles; by such means the whole island would be brought to within a moderate distance of a road having a natural harbour at each end. It belongs to an engineer to say how far these natural harbours might be capable of artihcial improvement. The belt of reef about a mile wide, that lines the shore within them, is composed of argillaceous limestone, in nearly horizontal beds, which are dry at low water of spring tides. The depth of water on the reefs at spring tides is about six feet, and the strength of the break- water might be made accordingly. I have been informed that a vessel of 54 IIESOUKCES AND CAPABILITIES 500 tons has boon loaded with a cargo of timber in Gamachc Bay. During a heavy wind from the east, while I was at Fox Bay, a schooner ran in for shelter, and appeared to be quite safe. On account of the safeness of this harbour, a provision post was established in it; but since the erection of Heath Point Lighthouse, seventeen or eighteen years ago, it has been discontinued. I do not know of any other harbours on the Island that are sheltered from all winds ; for small boats of fi'om three to ten tons burth?ii, there are scarcely ten miles of the coast where shelter could not be found by passing up the small rivers at high water; and there are many bays that might perhaps be made safe by excavations similar to those to which allusion has been made. Elvers and Lakes. The streams that are met with along the coast are, considering the breadth of the island, very numerous. There is scarcely a mile that is not supplied with its clear stream of water, and every six or nine miles shew one of a size sufficiently large, and with a flow sufficiently constant, to keep machinery going. Waterfalls near the coast often present excellent sites for the ])urpose. On the south side the largest rivers are the Becscie, the Otter, the Jupiter (which is the largest on the island), the Pavilion, and Chaloupe; on the north, the Fox and Salmon Rivers are the largest. On the south shore nuraeruns ponds and small lakes were seen just inside the shingle beach. Great Salt Lake, Little Salt Lake, Chaloupe Lake, and Lake Lacroix on the south side, and Pox Lake on the north side are in reality lagoons ■ '' salt water, the tide flowing in and out and mingling with fresh water of the rivers. Most of the streams i lakes swarm with the finest brook trout and .salmon trout, and large shoals of niackerel were almost daily observed all around the island. Seals were extremely abundant, and but for a few Indians who come over from Mingan in July and August, and take a few of them en the north side of the island, tliey would be wliolly undisturbed. In the bays and more Bholtcrcd places round the island these creatures are met with by thousands. dl.- IIIK l.- 111.- ANilCii,>Tl. i)i} were seen It was not luiconinion to stumble across oiu> asleep on the beacli, when generally it was despatched with a blow or two of our hammers. Several species of whale were observed to be abundant towards the west end of the island. This must be a favorite resort as they were either seen or heard at irregular intervals day and night. One of them about sixty feet in length, and about tifteen feet above the water's edge was found grounded on the reef iu Prinsta bay when we passed on the 3rd September. Wild Anliiials. The wild animals met with ou the island as far as I am aware are the common black bear, the red, the black, and tlie silver fox and the marten. Bears are said to be very numerous, and hunters talk of their being met with by dozens at a time; but (jn my excursion I only observed one at Ellis Bay, two near Cormorant Point, and one in tiie neighbourhood of Observation Cape. Foxes and ] lartens are very abundant; the marten was fre- quently heard during the night in the neighbourhood of our camp. I heard of no animals of any other descn-iption, with the exception of wild fowl, and I saw no frogs nor reptiles of any description, and I was informed by the hunters that there were none. Dlstribtdlun vj tlie Eocks. The rocks of the island were found on examination to be in gre£,L part somewhat difl^erent in their gencr 1 lithological cha- racter, as well as in their fossil contents, frcni any that had previously come under my notice. I therefore resolved to separate them into certain stratigraphical groups, leaving the . determination of their geological ago to future investigation. These divisions in ascending order I shall therefore call— 1. Division A. 2. Divi.5ion B. 3. Division C. 4. Division D. T). Division E. 6. Division F. :>(i ICKBOUKCES AND CArAHlMTirs Th(5 following twenty-eight pages of the printed Report aro devoted to a detailed description of these divisions, and show tliat the substratum of the island is composed of limestone (principally grey), and give the various measurements taken, and describe tlic various fossils met with. KCONOMIC MATERIALS. The substances tit for economic application met with on the island are confined to building stones, grindstones, brick-clay, peat, and shell-marl ; Tiietalliferous minerals, as far as my observa- tions went, appear to be wanting. The only ore observed appeared to be loose pieces of magnetic oxide of iron, nm«t probably trans- ported from the Laurcutian series on the north shore of the St. Lawrence; there is no reason, however, for asserting that bog iron ore may not be hereafter found. BtnhVmj Stunes.~In tiic immediate neighbourhood of Soutli- west Point, coarse granular limestone for building purposes is di.splayod in abundance among the .strata belonging to Division F. It occurs in beds of from six to eighteen inches in tliickness, is ea.sily dres,sed, and yields good blocks of a yellowish- white colour. T/ie lighthouse at the point is built of it, and so is that at Heath Point, botli of which, notwithstanding the eoar.se and rather open texture of the stone, have stood for upwards of seventeen years I believe, without shewing signs of decay. Th.c sandstone of Cape James and Table Head would afford a Kne material for building purposes; it has a good warm colour, being a grconish-grey approaciiing to drab, rather lighter than the .sand- stone of Craig Leath quarry, near Edinburgh; it has a free grain, and would therefore dress easily, Avhile the angular fragments on the beach shew that it would retain its sharp edges. Blocks of every required size might be obtained with thicknesses up to five and a-half feet. One solid mass of it which had fallen from Cape James lay on the beach, measuring forty by sixty feet, with a thickness of five feet, and must have contained upwards of P2,000 cubic feet of good workable stone. In tlie (wo cliffs which have been mentioned, the bed occupies seven miles of the coast, and its OV THK ISIiANIi OF ANTICOSTt. 57 llcport, ar« I show that principallj- escribe tlio ith on the briek-clay, ly observa- d appeared ably traiis- of tli(. St. it bog iron of Soutli- mrposes is )ivision F. lickness, is lite colour. t at Heat 1 1 athor open ■en year.s I fford a Hue iir, being a the sand- free grain, gments on J {locks of up to five from Capo it, with a 5 of 1-2,000 rhich have iSt, and its proximity to the sea offer.s a very easy means of transport to the townj and cities of the St. Lawrence. Grindstones. — The same sandstone would very probably yield very good grindstones; although slightly calcareous, it is even grained, and there is a sufficient amount of clear sharp grit in it to render it available, while there would be no difficulty in getting any sizes of grindstones that might be reriuired. Brick Ghvj. — Clay tit for common red brick exists in some abundance it was observed of a bluish-grey colour, and about ten feet in thickness, half-a-mile up the Otter lliver, on the south side; and I was informed of its existence up the f?eescie River. Above five miles of coast in the vicinity of St. Mary's River consists of clay clilfs of from sixty to ^^evcnty feet in height, and no iloubt much of it might be made available for bricks; some of it, liowever, is of a calcareous character, and contains many pelibles of limestone, fitting it probably for agricultural rather tlian manu- facturing purposes. Frefih-wuter Shell-marl. — This material appears to exist in con- siderable abundance on thu island: tlie bottoms of all the ponds or small lakes that were examined, with the exception of such as were surrounded by peat, were more or less covered with it. Marl Lake is one of these; it has a superficies of about ninety acres, and although the depth of the deposit was not carefully sounded, its thickness appeared to be considerable. The brook which empties the Lake into Indian Cove at the west end, carries do\\ n a larpe quantity of the marl as a sediment to the sea, where it becomes spread out for a considerable space over the rocks of the vicinity. About three miles west from South-west Point, marl was observed to occupy a position on the bank of a brook, and to extend for a quarter of a mile inland, presenting a thickness of about a foot covered with peat. In a lake half-a-mile further Inland, it covered the bottom over an area of 200 acres ; and on the east side of South Point it was observed reposing on rock close to the shore, covered over by from four to ten feet of peat. Peat.—Mowg the low lands of the south coast of the island, from Heath Point to within eight or ninc^ miles of Sonth-wi'?t Point, a 58 liKSOrlti.'i:.-. AND ('AIA!ill,ITIi:« continuous peat plain extends for upwards of eighty miles, with an avcrapfo broudth of two miles, pivinp a superficies of upwards of l()0 sijiiare miles, with a thickness of peat us olwcrved on tlio coast of from three to ton teet. On the average this plain may bo fiftaen feet above liigh-water mark ; and by channels cut through it could be easily drained and faced for working. As far as my knowledge goes, this is the lai'gest peat field in Canada, and the general quality of the material is excellent. There are many isolated patches also between South-west point and the west end, varying in size from 1.00 to 1,000 acres, which would yield a considerable quantity of the material. It was stated to mo that peat existed .»lso in some abundance in the ixitcrior of the island, but this I am disposed to doubt, for while all the streams flowing from the peat plain, on the south side gave as is iisual a brown coloured water, those in other parts were pure and colourless, leading to the opinion that the int(!rior was peculiarly free from peat swamps. Among the materials of Ihe island which may lie considered of an economic nature though not of a mineral character, sea-weed and drift-timber may be enumerated. Sea-'ivccd. — In all the bays, coves, and sheltered places around, the whole island, with the exceptiou of those between the east end and South-west Point, there is a great accumulation of soa-weod along the high-water mark : in such phices patches of it are met with of from a hundred yards to half-a mile in length, and from two to six yards in width ; the depth usually vained from one to four feet, and ill some instances was six feet. The beneficial effect of sea-weed as a manure is too well known to require mentioning, but to what distance it would buar carriage for such an applicatiov. is more than I am able to state. On the island, Mv. Pope, of South-west Point, makes use of it as a fertiliser for his fields, mixing it with the peat which forms the soil, Drift Timber. — The quantity of squared timbei- and saw-logs which are scattered along the south shore of the island, is very surprising; the abundance appears to be greater towards the east end than the west : but according to the calculation wliich I have made, if the wliolf of (he logs were placed end to end they would OK THK ISLANP Ob' ANTICOSTI. 59 form a line er(ual to tho whole length of the island, or Uo milus; this would givo about oni* raillioti of ciilji(! feot. Some of tho scinared timber may have been derived from wreeks, but tho great nnraber of aaw-logs, which are not HJiipped as cargo, induces mo to suppose that tho main source of this timber is drift. No doubt the whole of it may have onco been private property, and perhaps much of it could be identified as such by private marks ; perhaps too no one may have a right to touch it but tho owners of tho island, to whom it may boa irnlj'; but it is to be regretted that it should be allowed to remain on tho shore to rot, as much of it has no doubt done. Tho captain of a fishing schooner that had not been very successful in taking lish, applied to nie when I was leaving Heatii I'ointtoknow where the greatest accumuhitiou of it might be found, expressing an intention of cutting some of the squared timber into convenient lengths and loading his vessel with it for Nova Scotia. More may perhaps be in the habit of pursuing a similar trade. Having in this Report described tho geological L'acts presented to my observation in Anticosti, I am desirous of drawing attention to tho inferences that are suggested by tho results as connected with the agricultural capabilities of the island. From tho facta given in regard to the natural vegetation of the island, or tlie limited agri- cultural experiments, of whiek mention has been made, little of importance can bo gathered; but these when taken in combination with the considerations suggested by the attitude and mineral character of the rocks appear to me to merit serious attention. The strata of Anticosti beii :,' nearly horizonial cannot fail to give to the surface of the country , sliapo in some degree conforming to them. Tho surface will bo nearly a level plain with only such modifications as are derived from the deep.^r wearing in a longitu- dinal direction of some of the softer beds. ])roducing escarpments of no great elevation, with gentle slopes from their summits in a direction facing the sun, that will scarcely be perceptible to the eye. The easily disintegrating character of the rocks forming the subsoil can scarcely fail to have permitted a great admixture of their ruins y.,^^]^ ^}jo|,n,r(,j. drift mav have been brought to constitute a soil, and it is reasonable to suppose that the mineral character of these «tO IMx.imCI'.s ASM OM'MUMTlK.a aruill'vCMUs limestones must l.avo given to thono ruins a fertilo character. It is precisely ..a sueh rocks, in such a condition, and with such an nttitn.lo, that the best soils of the western peninsula of (Canada West are pl.i.cl, as well as of the Genesee country in the State of New York. I have seen nothing in the actual soil as it exists to induce me to suppose that in so far as soil is considered, \ntico8ti will be anvthin- inferior to those re-rions; and cons.dera- tiouB of cUnmte only can indiu-.. the opinion that it would in any way be inferior to tiicni in agricultural capabilities. The tl .p months that I was on the island were altogether too short a time to L>nable mc to form any opinion upon the climate of Anticosti. 15ut taking into view the known fact that large bodies of water are more difficult to cool and more difficult to heat than largo .'-uvfaces of laml, I should be inclined to suppo.se that Anti.osti would not be so cold in winter nor so hot in summer as districts that are more inland and more south, and that it would not compare unfavorablv with any part of the country betwe.'u it and Quebec. While autumn frosts would take effect later nt Anticosti, the spring would probably bo a little earlier at Quebe- . But such is the condition of the i.sland at present that not a yard of the soil has been turned up by a permanent settler; and it is the case that about a million of acres of good land, at the very entrance from the ocean to the Province, are left to lie waste, whih- great o.xpeuses are incurred to carry settlers to the most distant parts of the west. Taken in connection with the Hsheries, and the improve- ment of the navigation of the St. Lawrence, it appears to me that the establishment of an agricultural population in the i.sland would i.jt only be a profit to the settlers themselves, but a great advantage to the Province at large. I have the honor to be. Sir, Your most obedient servant, JAMES RICHARDSON. or inE ISLAND or anmk.'Osti. 01 t a ft'i'tilo iition, and poninHuIa titry in tlu' soil as it •onaidiTod, coiiHidera- ild in any AN EXTRACT FROM THE REVORT or )gether too I cliniiitf of urge bodies heat than it Anlii osti as districts lot compare nd Quebec. , the spring ; not a yard md it is the ;ry entrance while great int parts of ;he in\ pro ve- to me that slum! would it advantage v.. BILLINGS, ESQ., THK I'AL^ONTOLOGIST, IDSON. ADDBEBSKU TO Sin WILLIAM K. LUGAN, PROVINCIAL GEOLOGIS'L'. VVVm U. MARCH, 1^57, I, .on the fossils, brought from Anticosti by Mr. Richardson, and (hiposited with other fossils in tho Gcolojfual Museum at Montreal :— The divisions on the third floor will be as follows:— 1.— Thi; Anticosh Gbolw, consisting of beds of passage from the Lower to the Upper Silurian, and supposed to be synchronous with the Oneida conglomerate, the iMedina sandstone, and Clinton group of the New York Survey; and with the Caradoc formation of England. 2.— ThP UlM'KR SlI.UIMAX. 3. — Thk Dkvoman. 4.. — Tin- CARnoMi'EROU,-!. 5— TuK Diun, 62 BliSOUKCES AND CAl'Alil LITIKS The classification uijon tlio tliird floor is foundoil principally on the now facts brought to light by the survey of Anticosti. .Mr. Richardson, as will be seen by his Report, has ascertained that the island consists of a deposit of argillaceous limestone 2300 feet in thickness, regularly stratified in nearly liorizontal and perfectly conformable beds. All the facts tend to shew that these strata were accumulated in a quiet sea, in uninterruiitud succession during that period in wliicli the upp ,r part of the Hudson River group, the Oneida conglomerate, the ^fedina Sandstone, and tlie Clinton group were in the coarse of being deposited in that part of the palajozoic ocean now constituting the State of New York, and some of thccountries adjacent. If thiKviewbc correct, then tlie Anticosti rocks become highly interesting, because they give us in great perfection, a fauna hitherto unkno-.vn to the Palaeontology of North America. When tlie great thickness of the rocks between the Hudson Iliver and Clinton groups is considered, it becomes evident that a vast period of time must have passed away during their deposition; and yet as the Oneida eongloraera; e is unfossiliferous, and the ^ledina sandstone has yielded bat a few inconspicuous species, we have been almost wholly without the means of ascertaining the natural history of tlie American seas of tliat epoch. The fossils of the middle portion of the rocks of Anticosti fill this blank exactly, and furnish us with the materials for cf)nnecting the Hudson River group Avith the Clinton, by beds of passage containing some of the characteristic fossils of both formations, associated with many new species which do not occur in cither. The Report concludes with a very long and interesting description of the numerous varieties of the fossils. lud prineipully on if Aiiticojjti. Mv. ccrtained that the itono 2.300 fi-et in tal aud perfectly these strata were iuceession diiriiiif' Ison River grouj), and tlio Clinton that part of the York, and some of iK'.Vntico.stl njuks I great perfection, Xorth America, he Hudson Ilivcr ident that a vast V deposition; and , and the Medina species, we have ining the natural he fossils of the lank exactly, and Hudson River ining some of tlie 1 with many new ;sting description OF THE ISLAND OF ANTICOSTI. 63 EXTHACTS FBOM LO YELL'S GAZETEEE OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA, PULLISIIED 1881. ANTICOSTI— An Ishind lying directly in the mouth of the 8t! Lawrence, between the 40th and 50th d, grees of latitude, nearly the same as that of thc^ r.orlh of France, contains an area of 2,m,00Q acres of land of the best quality similar, said the late Sir W. Logan, the eminent Canadian Geologist, to the fine arable Hoil of Ontario and the Genessoe County. New York State. Anticosti slopes gradually from its elevated northern coast to the grassy savannas which skirt the southern shore, and thus in a great measure the fertile portions of the Country are protected from severe winter winds. Its clinrate is very healthy, and it certainly is not severer than that of the other maritime provinces. The atmosphere is pure and clear, and free from fogs which are .so frequent on and around Newfoundland. The winter's cold is considerably tempered by the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, aud the heat of summer is to a certain extent moderated by the same influence. Vcgetatio . progresses very rapidly, aud crops come to perfection in good season. The soil is of a good quality b 'ino' a rich loam mixed wi'h limosfor.e ; vabinbic forests are to hi I tM RKSOORCES AND CAPABILITIES foiiiul Oil the greater part of the Island, and although the timber generally is not of the largest size it is of a superior quality and well adapted for shipbuilding. The ti.shories around the Island are valuable and important; tlio waters bordering on Anticosti ai'e stocked with the same kinds as are to be met with on the south and north coast of the St. Lawrence. Large shoals of herrings visit its shores — the whole of Anticosti abounds with fish of all sorts. Codfish on this coast are large, and no finer are seen even on the ^liscou and Orphan banks; even when codfish was a failure everywhere r;lse in the Gulf it did not fail at Anticosti, halibut are so plentiful that 199 barrels were taken in one day. The seal fishing which could be carried on here as well in winter as in summer might bo turned to profitable account, large numbers of these animals being visible in the former season, and thousands of them being observed in the summer and autumn at the entrance of almost all the bays and rivers. Hunting is of considerable value though of far less importance than its fisheries. There are numerous natural harljours round the coast which arc comparaiively safe in all winds. The establishment of depots of coal at Ellis Bay and Fox River would be an advantage, the importance of which would be hard to estiniiite, coal being easily procurable from Nova Scotia. In Commander Lavoie's report for 1872, he says that geologists and utliers who have visited the interior of the island, agree [in stating that its soil is rich, and that more than one million acres can be cultivated with advantagi'. Clearances have already been made at Gamache (Kills Bay) at South West and West Point, where vegetables and grains nf the district of Montreal and Quebec flouri-^h. Four lighthouses are erected on Anticosti ; that on Heath Point is a round tower built of a greyish white liineston (juarried at the island ; that at Soutli West Point is built of t)ie .^ame stone. S'reaius "f osc'llcnt wfitcr iff.scend to the sea on evorv part nf tlio OF THK ISf.AXn 0!' AXTICOHII. igh. the timber [uality and wc] 1 ,nd impoi'tant; tlio same kinds 1 coast of the le of Anticosti ; are large, and iks; even when dill not fail at were taken in well in winter large numbers and thousands at the entrance less importance joast wliicli are and Fox River ould be hard to otia. that geologists sland, agree [in le million acres re already been d West Point, eal and Quebec Heas seen at his resi- dence on John Street by a Specfatnr reporto" la.-sc evening. He talked enthusiastically about the Island. "Iwas particularly struck," he said "with the number of rivers flowing north and south, empty- ing into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. This points to a central water shed. In the interior of the Island must be a chain of lakes. I sent Dr. Dawson, President of Mc-Gill College, some shells, which I picked up on the shore, which indicated post-pliocene deposits. He writes rae that this is a new discovery. In response to a request from him I collected a number of the fossils and forwarded them to him. He will publish an account of tlio discovery in the •' Record of Science." I also fnrnishcd the doctor with evidence of the smdual rise of the Island, which is going on at the present time, and 06 RKSODRCES AMI CAPABILITIES mentioTiod the existence of cnorm. ^s deposits of fresh water shel rnarl. I« one case a pole t«n feet long was forced into the marl bed. In proof of the steady elevation of the Island, I remarked a high ridge of gravel and shingle, in rear of the village of English liay, at the west end of the Island. The ridge contains portions of the bones of a whale which is pretty clear evidence that it had once been submerged. I was assured by an old resident of the village, thatabouttwenty or twenty-five years ago the tops alone could be seen of two large granite boulders on the strand in front of the village. The base of the boulders and many yards beyond, are now exposed at low water. I also heard from an old resident, Mr. McDonald, of McDonald's Cove, that when h.- first came to Anticosti the tide washed beyond the spot where we were then standing; and that, in fact his boat had often passed over it. I am not sure this gradual rise is going on in the Laurentian chain. That can only be ascer- tained by comparison with the others. I am not prepared to say what causes it." " You spoke awhile back of American schooners calling for fish. Are fish very plentiful there ? " " There are enormous quantities of them. I never saw such abundance, not only in the surrounding waters, but in the rivers and brooks also. In one pool near the mouth of the Becs.e river I counted four dozen and seven trout in one school, and while I was counting, another school came out from the bank, more numerous still. 1 fancy the weight would average from half-a-pound to a pound and-a-half each. In a pool near the mouth of the Salmon river 1 counted seven beautiful salmon. We came one night to the mouth of a small river, and found a sand bir across it literally black with eels. The boatman and myself, armed only with such uncouth and awkward angling utensils as a stick and an oar, killed seven large ones by simply driving them out of the water. In passing over a reef near the southern lighthouse I counted 1 12 large lobsters on the reef, just within a distance of alxmt lUO yards. They were the largest lobsters 1 ever saw. You have no idea of the develop- ment of these .'rustacean monsters. Their enormous size is due to a prejudice against eating them on the part of the tishermen. They fancy that the lobsters feed ou the bodies of drowned sailors, and resh water shell ;d into the marl (1, I remarked a lage of Enjjlish ontains portions ence that it had mt of the village, one could be seen it of the village, are now exposed ^Ir. McDonald, of Lnticosti the tide iny:; and that, in sure this gradual ,n only be ascev- , prepared to say •8 calling for fish. '. never saw such but in the rivers the Becsic river 1 , and while I was k, more numerous half-a-pound to a th of the Salmon Tie one night to the SH it literally black with su(!h uncoutli I oar, killed seven water. In passini^ d 1 12 large lobsters yards. They were ea of the develop- •mous size is due to le fisliermeu. They rowned sailors, and OF THE ISLAND OF ANTICOSTI. 67 hence leave them entirely alone. The fishermen never fish in deep water. They have nothing but small boats, and except in calm weather never venture beyond the reefs. A breakwater is badly ucediMl in every part of the Island." " What about the soil and vegetation ? " "Along the shore the soil is excellent in places, and in places very sterile. It was in patches. I fancy the loam in the interior is very fertile, and the appearances indicate luxurious vegetation. The lighthouse keeper used marl for manure in response to a suggestion of mine, and most magnificent vegetables were grown by him. The trees along the shore have almost all been blighted and killed by spray and spume falling on them. Wherever the salt water touches the tree withers, and the process eventually kills it." SOME REMARKABLE PRODUCTS. It will not be Mr. Stockwell's fault if the Island of Anticosti fails to become a place of the most thriving import. A " Chronicle" re- porter was shown by him yesterday, quite a quantity of products grown in this hitherto almost unknown region. They consisted of vegetables, and specimens of tree life. Of the former, perhaps, the turnips elicited the most surprise. They are very large and heavy and exceedingly good in quality. At no agricultural show held in this district within the last seven or eight years, have we seen finer sampler,. The cabbages and cauliflowers and potatoes are also very large. The parsnips and carrots, though not remarkable as regards size, appeared to be excellent in quality, and fair average vegetables. In woods, the exhibit at Mr. Stock wells's olhce, was almost as sur- prising. They included specimens of juniper, birch, pine and spruce, and some of these were of great circumference, and well worthy of inspection. Few could have believed without seeing them, that such trees and plants could reach their development at Anticosti, which has long been regarded as a sterile piece of country. As Mr. Stockwell St -ids to-day specimens of these products to England, an entirely different impression of the Island and its capabilities will be formed, we are very sure. Elsewhere, in our paper, this morning, we print an intci-cstlug aceo-irt ct Co!. Gr^nV? '•■^tcnt vipit t.> Anti- costi. Our readers will fii^d much in it that is new. G8 RESOURCES, &C., OF THE ISLAND OK ANTICOSTl. li:tti:u ]''R0m messus. cautkr & co., seedsmen, dated UECEMDEl, 8..,, 1885. AS TO VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS FROM THE ISLAND. From Jamks Carter & Ci., Seed Farmer and Merchants, 237 & 238, High Holborn, London, W.C. ; To F. W. Stockweu-, Esq., U- I'anc.ras Lane, E.G. B,«.n,ber 8th, 1885. Dear Sik, We are duly in receipt of the packa;.- oon-uining ti>e produce of T Mir Crops at Anticosti, the whole of T^!;ich have arrived iu ex- (•elh'iit condition. Tiie specinums of our Pri«e Winner Swed.«. the huge samploa ot our various stocks of Turnips, would do no discredit to a tii-st-ratc Knglisli Farm. The Fotato.'S are also most excellent, and svill compare favorably with iinything grown in Euro;)c. Dear Sir, Your t.lK'dient Servants, (S/r/«e.•^ /-'''''« '^.'/ ■l'-M>^teorolo,ical Scrv.ce m 1884, with data vp to the end o/ 1H»2. January February March April May ... June . . . July ... August September October November December QUEliEC. 8-5 15-5 21-8 305 45 •! 58-4 G4-5 , 04-2 541) . 46-8 . 28-6 . 151 Anticosti. 90 i2-4 20-2 27-G 37-4 47'li 55-G 55-G 51-2 42-2 29-9 24-7 "SVlNNIPEO. 01 G-4 12G 338 50-G GO-5 G40 G71 54-9 42-0 21-0 0-8 ture. _. j^jj^_ M.VX. 39-G February, 1885 209 October, 1884 November „ , Dccoriner „ . January, 1885 Max. 40'0 ld'5 .^Jlarch 13-4 April 8-2 ^lay, 21-0 33-3 447 MiN. 13-1 9-S 25'7 35-*^ y ^EN, DATED TIONS IROM chants, 237 & cKWF.Lt,, Esq.) ■ 8th, 1885. ig the produce anived iu ex- go saropleM ol" to a iii-st-ratc- pave t'avor.ibl}' nts, L'Ell & CO. •, Winnipeq and ' Service in 188-1, \VlNNIPE 071 54-9 42-0 21-0 0-8 i/ Point, Anticost:, 'he mean tempera- Max. 209 '21-0 33-3 44-7 MiN. 131 9-r> 25-7 35i^ ,1 "■■■v..,,.^ , ,0,i Jlv^^* M//VCiN ISLANDS hi' the twrth WMt Irleifrntifi lin<',i l.^h«i