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BY ADAM FERGUSSON, ESQ. ■'■ K O [ OF WOODHILL. I r CUPAR : PRINTEO AT THB FIFE HERALD OFFICE ; I SOLD BY G. ». TUI.L1S, AND P. BIR1l£LL, CUPAR ; W. BLACKWOOP, £l)i^BURGH ; JA8. CHALMERS, DUNDEE; P. WILSON, ARBROATH ; J. NICHOL, M0NTR03E ; AND BY THE V-f - -' BOOK8ELLEB8 IN ST ANDREWS, ANSTRUTHER, KIRKALDY} AND DUNFERMLINE. (Price Three-pence,J ' Iff »^/A^ fhy/rnrc, ^ AGRICULTURAL STATE OF CANADA, ^i / AND PART OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. BY ADAM FERGUSSON, ESQ. ' OF WOODHILL. .-.•"y; '. •'•'■ CUPAR: paiNTED AXD PUBLISHED BT G. S. TULLIS, AT THE WITM MKRAtP OFFICK. ...••i I ji -laS' 1832. •• •>.«. ADVERTISEMENT. » • The great numbers of individuals now yearly emigrating from this country to America, renders it highly desirable that authen- tic and recent information, in regard to those parts most eligible for settlement, should be rendered as easily accessible. as possible* to intending emigrants. For this purpose we* have tonsid^fed that a re-publication in a separate and cheap form of Mr Fergus^ son's excellent paper on the Agricultural State of Canada, and Part of the United States of America, which appeared in the fifteenth number of the Journal of Agriculture, might be found useful. Having kindly received permission from that gentleman, and from the Publisher of the Agricultural Journal, we accord- ingly present the following pages to the reader, not doubting but that they will be likewise acceptable to the public generally. It is of some importance to diffuse a knowledge of the actual con- dition of a country, whose inhabitants ere so closely allied to us by the ties of kindred and a community of interest ; and which seems destined for centuries to come to afford a promising retreat for the enterprising and industrious portion of our surplus popula- tion, and a field of profitable exertion to all whose tastes or cir- cumstances may Lad them to preTer a Trans-Atlantic life. The conditions of the two countries are indeed exactly in that state which makes them best suited to the wants of each other. In this country the evils of a too abundant population are felt in every department of business, so that by an excessive competition the wages of industry are reduced to a state incompatible in many instances with the comforts of the labourer, which renders the making of a provision for a family frequently a matter of the most serious difficulty. In Canada, on the other hand, the hard- ships of life almost wholly arise from an opposite state of society — there co-operation and capital only are needed to command the roost abundant supply of all the necessaries and comforts of ex- istence ; and the greater the increase of population, the more com- plete are the means of happiness of each individual provided for. It would therefore seem only to require a practical appreciation of the advantages of it, to establish such a properly regulated emi- gration, as in due time might greatly relieve us, and very sensibly enlarge the means of enjoyment of the inhabitants of both countries. At the same time it is of much consequence that none should be misled from their native shores, by false hopes of future ad- vantage ; and it is the imperative duty of intending emigrants, before embarking in an enterprise of such magnitude, to look well at the prospect before them. The following pages present a faithful picture drawn on the spot, by a cool and dispassionate observer. It is for each maturely to consider how far the facts de- picted may suit his views of life, peculiar habits and circumstances. ON THE AGRICULTURAL STATE OF CANADA AND PART OF TIIK UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. BV ADAM FERGUSSON, ESQ. OF WOODHILL. {^Extract from the Minutes of a Meeting of the Directors of the Highland Society of Scotland, held the Sd of February/ 1831. The Hon. Baron Sir Patricr Muriiay of Ochterlyre, Bart. in the Chair. The Directors having been apprized by Mr Fergusson of Woodhill of his intention to visit Canada and the United States of America, it has appeared to them, that this may afford a favourable opportunity of obtaining such information regarding those countries, as may prove beneficial to rural economy and the useful arts at home. The zealous and valuable assistance which the Highland Society of Scotland has received from Mr Fergusson, as a Member and Director, and his knowledge and experience acquired in the long and honourable discharge of every duty of a country gentleman, afford an assurance to the Directors, that he will be eminent- ly attentive to all such circumstances connected with the state of industry and the useful arts in the rich and magnifi- cent countries which he is to visit, as may tend to promote the improvement of those arts in his own. The Directors will therefore receive with the highest sa- tisfaction such information as Mr Fergusson may from time to time communicate regarding the arts and natural produc- tions of the New World, as well as on the subject of emigra- tion, and the condition of the emigrants ; and should he meet with associations similar to this Society in the purposes of their institution, the Directors authorise him to open up with them such a friendly intercourse as may lead to mutual good oflGces, and an interchange of useful information. The Directors, in taking leave for a time of a gentleman with whom they have been so long associated in all the use- ful labours of tl.is Society, and whose personal character and private worth they have so much cause to appreciate, feel it a duty to record their warmest acknowledgments for the long. assiduous, and valuable assistance which lie has rendered to the Highland Society ; their anxious desire that he should soon again be enabled to resume the duties which he has so well fulfilled ; and their cordial wishes for his success in the objects which he now contemplates by visiting the United States of America, and the Colonies of Great Britain. The Chairman is requested to communicate to Mr Fergus- son an extract of these minutes. Pat. Murray, Chairman. Charles Gordon, Dcp. Sec Highland Society Halt,, Edinburgh, "l 3d February lOai. J LETTER FROM ADAM FERGUSSON, ESQ. TO THE DIRECTORS OF THE HIGHLAND SOCIETY OF SCOTLAND. Gentlemen, — In reference to a resolution of the Director£(, which you did me the honour of transmitting to me, through your Secretary, upon the eve of my departure for America, I feel it now my duty to furnish some statements regarding the provinces of U|)per and Lower Canada, with such por- tions of the United States as came under my personal obser- vation, or regarding which I acquired information from authentic sources during my excursion. Without reference to the precise route which I followed, my observations will point, 1. To Lower Canada ; 2. To Upper Canada ; 3. To the United States. In treating of these, my leading object will be to ascertain their respective advantages or disadvantage? to emigrants from Britain. Loiver Canada lies between 45° and 52° N. Lat., and 64-0 and 82o W. Long. To those ignorant of the geographical position, there is something in the term Lower strongly indicative of a supe- riority in climate, which is by no means borne out by actual circumstances. Winter, in the Lower Province, wears a more severe and protracted form, than it does on the great table- land above. Many decisive facts in confirmation of this might be adduced. I shall only mention, that wheat cannot here withstand the severity c^ winter, requiring to be sown in spring, and occasioning thereby both loss and inconvenience to the farwier in wet and late seasons ; while quails, or Vir- I ginian partridges, it may be observed, which abound in the Upper, are totally unknown in the Lower Province. The soil is generally a fertile clay, which has hardly been yet brought, in any instance, to the test of what it may pro- duce. It is generally occupied in small possessions, which continu'?, with the exception of some large seignorics and church-lands, to fritter more and more away, from the absence of a check in the law of primogeniture, and a want of enter- prise in the people, which might lead them to counteract this efiect, by entering on new land. The population is chiefly French, and the religion Roman Catholic. The habitans are industrious, frugal, and contented ; but their condition, to say the least, is almost stationary, and the habits or practices of their fathers are far too scrupulously revered. In person, they are rather good-looking, especially the men ; and to view them clothed in their home-spun drugget frocks, with a phy- siognomy of absolute content, peering from under the large hood so well fitted for a Canadian winter, is to obtain an as- surance of unquestionable happiness and comfort. The numerous orchards and abundance of fruit evince what steady and strong heat will produce, even with a winter of the most intense cold ; and while this supply contributes in a consider- able measure to the wealth of the people, it adds in no small degree, with the aid of the sugar maple, to the enjoyments of a board in all respects plenteously furnished. Tlie fine Is- land of Montreal is covered with orchards, and in every quar- ter they present themselves in rich luxuriance. Notwithstanding, however, of these, and the many advan- tages which approximation to the sea-coast holds out, I should certainly not consider Lower Canada likely to realize the hopes of British settlers. To many, the difference of religion, and scarcity of Protes- tant churches, will prove a drawback. To many more, the preponiierance of the French language, laws, and manners, will create a serious obstacle. Nor am I aware of any exist- ing circumstances, in the Lower Province, which can be said to counterbalance these objections. It is no doubt true, that many individual instances of pros- perity are to be met with in Lower Canada, among agricul- tural settlers from Britain and Ireland ; but these must be viewed as exceptions, and not followrd as a rule. Even the land measure will somewhat tend to embarrass a stranger, as it is the arpent (about one-fifth less than the £n- I ; li glish acre) which is in use, and the tenure and titles of his property will still more perplex him. I had an opportunity of seeing and conversing with several British emigrants, who cither occupy or possess farms in Lower Canada, and the uniform conclusion, to which all of them came, was an advice to look at the Upper Province before I formed an opinion upon the eligibility of a settlement. I am quite aware that several of these individuals are prospering in a measure, which might possibly be curtailed, if too many farmers of a like stamp should become located beside them ; but 1 am equally satished that no such jealousy influenced the advice I receiv- ed, and that the established conviction of all, who are ex- perimentally acquainted with Canada, is in favour of the Up- per Province, as a settlement for British agriculturists. Those emipTf nts who have obtained land near Quebec or Montreal, and v. . i are industrious and active, profit, of course, very handsomely by the vicinity of these cities. Dairy produce brings in excellent returns, and every thing finds a market ; and although mere locality cannot avail so much as formerly, when steam-navigation was unknown, still great advantages remain to the occupier of land near large towns. It is to be remarked, too, that the greater supply of farm-produce occasioned by the introduction of steam-boats, has materially increased the consumption, and has thereby compensated to the farmer the fall in price which necessarily followed — Fresh butter, which sold, in 1817, for Is. 6d. per pound, in Montreal, may now be had for 6d. In summer it is a perishable article, and must be sold when it comes to market. But hay, straw, potatoes, &c., and the very soil it- self,, are becoming, in the vicinity of Montreal; what an An- gus farmer termed to me, *' mischievously dear ;" and those who are in possession of farms in that vicinity will reap an abundant harvest. — My Angus friend, who seemed to be in the enjoyment of very easy circumstances, affords a proof, among hundreds, of what an industrious and steady man may do for himself in Canada. He came out in 1817, was wreck- ed in the Gulf of St Lawrence, suffered many hardships, and finally landed at Montreal, devoid of every resource save his 3wn hands and good spirits. He soon found employment, and in due time took a lease of a farm, which he finds to suc- ceed extremely well. His wheat and potatoes, he says, are excellent ; oats inferior. He cultivates green crops, taking mangel wurzel instead of turnips, which sufler f*o i the fly. i i I He u?es horses in preferenre to oxen; lias iion ploughs, niul fol- lows what lie called u .sort ol' rotation, — ist, Wlieat ; *2(l, (ireen crop; 3d, Clover; 4iii, Timothy (or huy ; and 5th, Pasture. Several farms are ut this lime to let in this quarter. The rent expected is lOs. or 12s. per acre. The Canadian farmers pursue tiie old .Scottish 'practice of infield and outfield, taking crop after crop ' which they were planned ; and the steam communi- cation upon^ the Uttawas with Montreal is already in opera- tion. Upper Canada is situated between 42° and 52° North Lat. and between 73° 30' West Long., and indeed indefinite bounds to the west. lleturninj; to the St - Lawrence, we enter the Upper Pro- vince, the Uttawas here forming the boundary line. As we ascend the river, we find nmnerous settlers, and thousands of acres v\ ell adapted for thj farmer. One of the first settle- ments v.e meet with is the Glengary district, an extensive tract of good land, enjoying the advantages of water carriage. The language, the customs, the native courage of their Celtic sires, still distinguish the clan, though, at the same time, we are afraid, accompanied by some of those less profitable traits which stamp the Highlander as more at home in wielding the claymore, or extracting mountain-dew, than in guiding the ploughshare, to slow but certain results. The farms are but indifferently improved, considering the advantages they have enjoyed ; and much valuable time is expended in the depths of the forest, in a demi-savage life, cutting and preparing tim- ber for the lumber merchant, which, if steadily devoted to the cultivation of the land, would certainly be attended with infinitely greater benefit, both in a physical and moral point of view. Very conflicting opinions exist in Canada regarding the Uimber-trade, and the subject was frequently discussed at this period, from the late proposal of ministers to lower the duties upon Baltic timber. It is certain that a large circula- tion is occasioned by the trade, perhaps a million Sterling, in one way or another, and that it employs, during winter, many who may gain perhaps £20 for their winter labour when no- thing ehe could be done. It benefits the farmer, too, by bringing a market for produce to his door. So far, all looks 'weW ; but there is no doubt, that those engaged in preparing timber for this trade being exposed to many hardships, ac- quire loose and debauched habits, which generally demoral- ize ; and that, in fact, no steady industrious characters are now willing to engage in it. In regard to the merchant, I have reason to believe that tne lumber-trade is by no means nume Lawr i by lo' 1 on iji{ -f the e'c i I \ 9 profitable, and that many merchants are anxious to back out as soon as they can. There can be no doubt, in any case, that if the trade is to be extinguished, it must be done in a gradual manner, and that any alteration of duties whicii would suddenly annihilate it, must be followed by veryniainful and hazardous consequences to the colony. To go minutely into the statistics of even the banks of the river, would far exceed the limits to which 1 must necessarily restrict myself. Suffice it to say, that a constant succession of eligible situations present themselves for estates and farms. I was much pleased with the Matilda district, and consider it capable of great improvement.* The soil is a fine mellow sandy loam, sometimes perhaps rather light, but admirably adapted for turnip husbandry and fine woolled sheep, with numerous beautiful situations for a residence, the noble St Lawrence ever forming a prominent feature, its surface varied by lovely wooded islands, similar to those we so justly admire on many of our British lakes. In approaching Kingston, or the east end of Lake Ontario, the river Guananogue falls into the St Lawrence, and, at its mouth, is the establishment of Messrs M'Donell, two brothers who came about eight years ago to the colony, and vvho, by steady enterprise, without original capital, have realized considerable wealth, while, alonf^ with it, they have secured the respect and esteem of all who know them. They have here, what is called in America, a valuable water privilege or fall, and have erected flour and saw mills to a large extent. Last season they sent down to Montreal 21,000 barrels of flour ; and a friend of mine who was their a^jent, informed me that one of the bro- thers having resolved upon becoming their own agent in Mon- treal, it would be a loss of some hundreds a-year to his house in commission. They have a very clever cooperage worked by water, similar to the steam cooperage at Glasgow, and the articles turned out are uncommonly reasonable, substantial, and neat. I regretted much not having it in my power to form an acquaintance with these spirited colonists, more especially as they farm likewise to a large extent. The farm at Guananogue extends to 1200 acres, and the mansion-house and barns are commodious and handsome. Having received very encouraging accounts at Kingston, of the country along the Bay of Quinty, a deep inlet of Lake Ontario, formed by a peninsula called Prince Edward's Is- Hnd, I made an excursion into that district. The scener} 10 hf; ' was pleasing, in many places very fine ; and settlements are Forming on every hand. The soil is partly clay, partly loam and sand, sufficiently rich to yield fifteen crops of good wheat, with impunity, in a period of twenty years. Granite, lime- stone, and sghistus, or clay-slate, are successively met with. Wherever a stream or creek of any importance falls into the lake, there we find a mill-seat and a village growing up, the embryo, in many cases, of considerable to'i'ns. To the patriot or philanthropist, it is highly gratifying to remark, how ihe wants of the farmer and the interests of the trader or mechanic co-operaie in the rapid progress of gene- ral improvement and civilization. Holywell, Sophiaburgh, and Belleville, are all thriving villages of this description ; and many individuals are to be met with in each, who from the humble situation of merchants' clerks, &c. are rapidly acquir- ing independence. The last is the county town of Hastings, which has already three churches, a court-houj^e, and pro- jected jail; a valuable mill-power, and fine situation for houses ; the high road from York to Kingston passes through it; and, altogether, it seems destined to become a place of some note. I was really astonished at the frequent calls which the steam-boat made for produce, and, ere we reached Kingston, our deck was absolutely heaped with flour- barrels. 1 have said nothing hitherto of the pric'e or value of land in Canada, and it is extremely difficult, in the settled parts of either province, to ascertain any thing like a fair average rate. Prices are perpetually fluctuating, and must be regulated by the circumstances of the seller; one man being willing to sell his farm for five dollars an acre, under a strong desire to commence anew upon a forest tract, or labouring under ne- cessity, while his next neighbour may probably refuse to part with similar land for less than ten or twelve dollars per acre. Of this, however, there is no doubt, that very eligible and advantageous purchases may, at all times, be made by a pru- dent capitalist, and that land is every year increasing in value, wherever it is desirable to possess it. (jreat bargains are Gometimes obtained at public sales, by warrant of the sheriff, for payment of land-taxes. Land thus sold is subject, for a certain short period, to be redeemed by the individual, or his heirs, who originally obtained the grant ; but, as it seldom exceeds, at a sheritf-sale, 6d. or 7d. per acre, it is well worthy of a trial. Steam-navigation may be said to have been created for Amei the S ence. agree senge i procu I possit I Jng tl 4 Steam } fancif ,j clearii f-Yoi , ment, head- at thii ing w] ^ -able t land-c i a geni • The found rivers, back, ing in four n or eig veyed ment, ^] and SI acres also cl An( wise t( ©f the blishm goverr the vie price, tculate Itained i Ag " bridge vate in ;nts are [ly loam 1 wheat, ;e, lime- fct with, into the : up, the fying to s of the of gene- iaburgh, ion ; and Tom the y acquir- lastingg, and pro- It ion for i through place of ent calls ; reached r- barrels. } of land parts oi' -c\^(i rate, emulated villing to desire to nder ne- ie to part per acre. ;ible and by a pru- in value, Tains are »e sheriff, ect, for a lal, or his t seldom ill worthy eated for ■J 11 America, and it is difficult to estimate the advances which the States and the Canadas will soon make under its influ- ence. To emigrants it not only affords a safe, cheap, and agreeable conveyance ; but, from the large concourse of pas- sengers, a fund of valuable local information may alvays be procured, and useful acquaintances formed ; while it is ini- possible to overlook the silent but important efJ'ects, in clear- ing the forest, which the consumption of fuel on board the steam-boats is destined to accomplish. Perhaps it is not fanciful to assert, that the woods of America are now actually clearing by means of steam. York, the capital of Upper Canada, and seat of govern- ment, is a very desirable station for a settler to choose as head-quarters, in looking about for a purchase. He is sure, at this place, to meet with numerous offers of farms, regard- ing which he will do well to act with caution ; and he will be -able to inspect the plans of public lands in the government land-office, under the superintendence of Mr P. Robinson, a gentleman able and willing to afford him every facility. The rich and heavi/ land of Upper Canada is not to be found in general upon the immediate banks of the lakes and rivers. It lies, for the most part, from twelve to twenty miles back, and thus compensates the enterprising settler for plung- ing into the forest. Government have still, I believe, about four millions and a half of acres to dispose of, besides seven or eight millions more beyond the lines of what has been sur- veyed. No land is now granted to itidividuals without pay- ment, the price varying according to situation and quality, and subject to tue regulation of clearing and fencing five acres within two years, erecting a house 16 feet by 20, and also clearing half of the road in front. Another land office, highly interesting to emigrants, is like- wise to be found in York. It is here that the commissioners of the Canada Company reside, and have their principal esta- blishment. This company^ as is well known, purchased from government 2^ millions of acres in the Upper Province, with the view of disposing of it in lots to settlers at an advanced price. The company is yet too much in its infancy to spe- culate upon results; but no reasonable doubt can be enter tained that it must operate favourably in procuring settlers. A great progress has been made in the formation of roads bridges, mijls, &c., which government would not, and pri vate individuals could not, have effected in the short period 4 12 which has elapsed since the estabh'shment of the company ; and, although a feeling inimical to their measures showed ifself in some quarters, I confess myself unable to discover, for thai jealousy, any reasonable cause. I had very full dis- cussions with the commissioners and agents, from whioh, as well as from their published proposals, 1 feel satisfied that emigrants of every class may commit themselves to the Canada Company, in perfect assurance of experiencing the mogt kind, honourable, and liberal treatment. Circumstances dependent upon the state of a new country, may delay the execution of plans beyond the promised period, but there can be no doubt of the company fulfilling all their engage- ments as speedily as possible. The prices of land vary from 7s. 6d. to 15s. per acre. I was much impressed with a fa- vourable opinion of the Great Huron Tract, from the fact that many steady Dutch settlers, in the possession of old productive farms near York, were, at the period of my visit, disposing of their property and removing to Goderich, — a change which the calculating Dutchman would not have rashly adopted, without pretty reasonable prospects of bet- tering himself to a considerable amount. " The township cf Goderich contains about 400 inhabitants already, and several Dutch families, from the neighbourhood of York, have sold, or are endeavouring to sell, their cultivated and valuable farms, and have purchased lands from the company in the Huron Tract. About 6000 acres have been sold them in the neighbourhood of Goderich within the last six montlw. In Guelph, a very valuable mill has lately been erected, and one in Goderich is now in progress." In a young and thinly-settled country, such as Canada, every accession of an industrious family or individual tends to the welfare of all ; and it is therefore natural to suppose that such a corporation as the Canada Company would be fully awake to this principle. We find, accordingly, that ia forming arrangements for forwarding emigrants to their own lands, they have offered vcy favourable proposals to erai* grants at large. They state, that " ail persons depositing £20 with the Canada Company's agents in Quebec or Mont- real, will be forwarded to the head of Lake Ontario by steam- boats, free of expense, and have liberty to select land in any \ .part of the province, at the current price charged by the com- V^pany, when the whole amount of their deposit will be placed « to their credit on account of their land. But, should they X prefer the ej amoui sons I familii may a forwai rival, chase- will al &c., b It n ] notes ( I rio, Tc ■ leaving testimi ) John ( I nada. of the ment c proven vince, experit John's Had more t tended j a few ,' elapse, In C( someth; ' p'-epara into Ca in time ment. I to be a I habits, I I classes, [labour i jWithoui (he felt t i great de / pany; lowed cover, il dis- :0h, as i that the ig the tancea ay the there ngage- y from i a fa- le fact of old y visit, ich,— a t have of bet- ishipcf several e sold, uable in the lem in nontI)fi. ed, aod anada, tends uppose uld be that inx ir own erai* )ositing Mont- steam- in any e corn- placed d they ] 13 prefer purchasing from individuals and not the company, then the expense of their conveyance will be deducted from the amount deposited, and the balance paid over to them. Per- sons depositing a sum equal to their conveyance, with their families and luggage, from Quebec to the head of the lake, may avail themselves of the company's contracts with the forwarders ; and should they, within three months after ar- rival, select land in Guelph, and pay one-fifth of the pur- chase-money, then the amount of their deposit in Quebec will also be placed to their credit, and they, their families, &c., be thus conveyed from Quebec free of expense." It may perhaps be interesting to give a few agricultural notes of an excursion from York by the head of Lake Onta- rio, Toronto, Waterloo, Dumfries, Hamilton, &c. ; but before leaving the capital, I must, with pleasure, add my humble testimony to the energy, good sense, and patriotism of Sir John Colborne, in his situation as Governor of Upper Ca- nada. Of his well-known military talents I am no judge ; but of the soundness of hi^ policy, in regard to emigration, allot- ment of public lands, encouragement of agriculture, and im- provement of the general constitution of society in the pro- vince, I am enabled to speak with unqualified praise. The experiments hitherto made by government have been, in Sir John's opinion, defective in system and concentration. Had the establishments of government emigrants been kept more together, this very circumstance would have greatly tended to general advancement. At present the)' form only I a few oases in the desert, and a long period must necessarily 1 elapse, ere the intervals are even in some degree filled up. In conversing with Sir John, I ventured to suggest that something was required on the part of government, in making ' preparation for the thousands of emigrants who are pouring into Canada every season, and who suffer heavy losses, both in time and means, from the want of some previous arrange- ment. It seemed to me that the agent for emigrants ought to be a gentleman not engaged in trade, but one of active habits, acquainted with rural affairs, and with the agricultural i classes, who might be ready at all times to point out land or pabour to emigrants, according to their ability and means. I Without going into minute details. Sir John assured me that ■he felt the want of such an arrangement much, and that a great deal of good might be effected by it, and a great deal f •WJUVWIJI I Im i 14 of government land sold, and that he had represented the matter to the colonial office at home. Emigrants unable or unwilling to purchase, will have little difficulty in providing themselves with a farm to rent, either for money or on shares, which means half the clear produce as rent. I was told by a gentleman of a friend of his, who was very comfortably settled in this way near York, upon a farm of 200 acres. Eighty acres are cleared, the remainder in wood pasture. He pays only £25 of rent, and clears X200 per annum, besides keeping his family. To show how land is advancing in value, this farm, a few years ago, might have been purchased for £200, but is, of course, worth a great deal more now. Market gardening, and rearing good live stock, are two branches that will pay well in this quarter. I left York, on Wednesday, May 11th, in the stage, for Hamilton, at the head of Burlington Bay, it being my in- tention to stop at night, and diverge next day into the woods. The roads were yet unrepaired for the season, and we tra- velled in an open waggon, the day fine, and for the first time somewhat sultry. It was interesting to observe the sudden transition from the streets of York to the solemn stillness of the forest, as, I think, we could not have proceeded above two or three miles, ere we were immersed in all the wild magnificence of a cedar swamp, and hemmed in by towering pines and hemlocks on every side. A cedar swamp forms an exception to a general rule, as it enjoys pure water, and se- cures health to its inhabitants, which is also the case where the hemlock, fir, and spruce, abound. The land, in such sit- uations, is not of the richest quality, sometimes sandy and poor, and the absence of fever and ague M'ould seem to be granted in compensation for diminished returns. Our route lay through Torento district, and I had the gra- tification of observing cultivation in every stage of its progress. There was the rude shanty or log-hut, its owner wielding the axe against the stately vegetable columns around him, or em- ployed in reducing them to ashes, while some were left stand- ing to blacken with the flames, or doomed to a protracted fate under the operation of girdling, by which the bark is cut round the stem, and life destroyed. A little farther on we pass an older farm. The mansion and offices commodious and neat, rich orchards loaded with blossom, fine wheat and I m son I inexha fThe s f from a oxen, they w ited the jve little It, either produce his, who upon a jmainder ars X?00 m, a few »ut is, of irdening, ; will pay tage, for g myin- lie woods. 1 we tra- first time e sudden tillness of ed above the wild towering forms an •, and se- ase where such sit- landy and sem to be d the gra- progress. elding the m, or em- eft stand- jrotracted )ark is cut ler on we mmodious wheat and 15 pasture or meadow land, healthy looking children at every door, with pigs and poultry in abundance. As we passed each fanner's open door, we saw groups ot old and young seated at their eveninp' meal, neat, clean, and comfortably clad. In general, Canadians and Americans are deficient in what we call dressing up their doors ; they are, in fact, so much en- gaged in heavier and more important work, that the period for training roses and honeysuckles has not yet arrived. We passed, however, one small property this evening, belonging to a Mr Adams, and laid out as a nursery (smile not at a nur- sery in America), filled with peach, ap le, and pear trees, flowering shrubs, &c., and which, by its neat arrangement and excellent order, forms at once a contrast and an example to its neighbours. We encountered some very steep hills Qnd some hazardous road, especially ascending and descend- ing the banks of two con:iderable creeks or rivers falling into Ontario. Large sums have been expended in levelling, Sec. apparently with but indifferent judgment or success. I reach- ed Summer's tavern, 35 miles from York, about eight, and found a most obliging host, with comfortable accommodation. It being my intention next day to visit the city of Guelph, founded by Mr Gait, when he acted as commissioner for the Canada Comp.my, my first inquiry was for saddle-horses and a guide. These were procured by my landlord, and at seven next morning I started, the distance to Guelph being called twenty-six miles. I shall not in this place detail the perils of the way, the horrors of rotten corduroy roads ^ cedar sivamps, loindfallsf Sfc, with the additional comforts of a misty rain, two roads diverging in a remote part of the forest, and the satisfaction of finding, upon an appeal to my guide, that he had never happened to be at Guelph before ; suffice it, that i reached my destination about three o'clock, after a most floundering journey. The road is through the finest forest scenery I had yet seen, and clearings were going forward in various places, and in every state of progress. 1 could not but admire the luxuriance and healthy appearance of the wheat and clover. The whole tract is upon limestone, and, in some places, the road passes over ridges of it absolutely inexhaustible. The cattle and pigs are but very indifferent. The state of the road may be, in some measure, estimated from a party which I passed, consisting of three men and six oxen, that had been three days absent from home, which they would only reach that day, drawing a load under which i • ! 16 a donkey would have trotted upon any British turnpike, and the whole extent cf the journey not exceeding twenty miles. Guelph is situated in the Gore district, about eighty miles from York, and has been laid out upon an extensive scale. A fine stream flows past the town, and a large grist-mill is at work upon it. A good deal of land has been located in the neighbourhood, and the town may ultimately prosper. At present it wears a stagnant appearance, and conveys some- what the idea of the cart •preceding the horse. When farms become numerous, and a mill is erected in a convenient situa- tion, a town soon grows up ; but here ihe town has been hur- ried forward, in the hope of settling the land. A vast deal of capital has been expended upon roads, &c., which must have so far benefited labourers, and tended, in some measure, to enable them to purchase lots ; but, at present, a very de- solate complexion marks Guelph, as a city which may be very thankful to maintain its ground and escape desertion. The price of company land is here about 15s. per acre, of good quality ; and, 1 believe, from the unsteady character of some of the early settlers, good purchases of farms partially clear- ed are frequently to be had. Guelph stands upon a fine na- tural platform, with the river flowing round it. A good bridge was nearly finished when I was there, and an extensive lirte of road is intended to connect this with the Huron settle- ment at Goderich. I spent the evening in company with Mr Prior, the acting manager, who has many arduous duties to perform. We con- versed, of course, much upon the subject of emigration. His opinion coincides with the general conviction, that no steady industrious man can fail to prosper in Canada, according to his means. The Commissioners are now greatly more cir- cumspect in the character of settlers than was the case at first ; and it is a leading object to obtain sober, moral, correct men, that a good neighbourhood may be every where secured. This must, of course, impose a painful and difficult task upon the agents, requiring much firmness and discretion. Mr Prior told me, that, during a temporary absence, a par- ty of a bad stamp had located themselves at Goderich. Having satisfied himself of their character, he sent for a vessel, and almost vi et armis^ shipped off fourteen families at one sweep. In disposing of lots to settlers, two methods are adopted in Canada, and their respective advantages and disadvantages are wiirnily discussed. The one adopted by the Canada Com- pany ineti settl The a cei of ir road acco ) five, , It eni selvc ) man) 'l begir I plou^ I gathe f stanc ' allowi \ occas ' or gra ' ing ar tions proba tain p attent " in the paymt i observ I dolla I agreet > gentle I ship, a \ about road thougl met w abund erect ec curred towns! appear stream VI I some- 1 farms L situa- en hur- ist deal h must leasure, ery de- be very . The »f good of some yr clear- fine na- l bridge ive line settle- acting Ve con- His steady ding to ore cir- at first; ct men, secured, sk upon ;, a par- Having sel, and B sweep, opted in vantages da Com- n. \ 17 pany is to insist upon an instalment at entry. The other nietijod is to leave payment of any portion optional to the settler, but carrying on an account of interest against liim. The advocates of the first plan maintain, that, by paying down a certain sum at first, the settler feels an interest and a degree of independence which he would not otherwise experience, and that the sums advanced enable the landlord to make roads, erect bridges, mills, &c. ; and further, that as the black, account is always running on, and a day of settling must ar- rive, for which the settlers are too often forgetful to provide, it ends in the abandonment of the farm, and in ruin to them- selves and families. For the second plan, it is argued, that many industrious worthy men have absolutely no capital to begin with, beyond what may be necessary to purchase oxen, ploughs, &c., and to maintain their families, until a crop is gathered, and that to exact their pittance in such circum- stances, is, in fact, to stifle their industry in its birth. By allowing time, and regularly balancing the account, taking occasionally what may be forthcoming either in cash, cattle, or grain, a poor man slips into clear possession without feel- ing any inconvenience. We shall find that, as in most ques- tions of the kind, tliere is much to be said on both sides, and probably either plan may be followed with advantage in cer- tain particular cases. The United States, who bestow much attention on the disposal of their public lands, have resolved, in the western country, to exact, not an instalment only, but payment in JiHly at the entry of settlers, though it is to be observed, that a n^an may there acquire 80 acres for 100 dollars, or £22 10s. Friday 14th, Mr Oliver, my landlord at Guelph, having agreed to drive me in his waggon to Mr Dickson's at Gait, a gentleman who purchased from Government a whole town- ship, and to whom I had particular introductions, we started, about 11 o'clock, and reached our destination about 4. The road was certainly superior to what 1 had travelled yesterday, though mudholes and rotten corduroy were occasionally to be met with. Limestone was to be seen on every hand in great abundance, and I observed, at one place, a kiln hew n out and erected in the very stratum itself. Wherever a clearing oc- curred, the wheat looked beautiful. We passed through the township of Waterloo, settled mostly by Dutch. The soil appeared to be a good, useful, sandy loam, well watered by streams and springs. I was delighted with the cultivation, ' WIIPllll! 18 * especially upon the farms of Schneider and Warner. Each farm might be from 200 to 300 acres, laid out into regular fields, and not a stump to he seen. The ploughing wag capi- tal, the crops most luxuriant, and the cattle, horses, &c., of a superior stamp, with handsome houses, barns, &c. and orchards promising a rich return. Waterloo satisfied me above all that I had yet seen of the capability of Canada to become a fruit- ful and fine country. The forest around consists of heavy timber, and the town- sliip does not enjoy the advantage of direct water-carriage ; yet have these Dutchmen, within a period of twenty years, produced farms, which in general aspect very nearly resemble well cultivated land in Britain. The farmers are primitive and simple-minded, attending to little beyond their own affairs, and so indifferent in regard to politics, that Mr Dickson doubted much if some of them were yet aware of the death of George HI. A great deal of cnpital flowed inco this set- tlemen during the large expenditure at Guelph by the Canada Company, the Dutchmen supplying teams, provisions, &c. My travelling companion valued some of the farms at 25 dol- lars, about £6, per acre. Chopping or clearing land, ready for sowing, will cost some- times 12 dollars, or £3, per acre; the first return will be 15 or 20 bushels of wheat, worth at present 5s. per bushel. The usual mode of clearing timbered land is to cut down and burn all the wood of one foot diameter and under that* The larger trees are only girdled. Clearing, in this way, costs about 8 dollars, or 4-08. per acre. When this is done, a crop of wheat can be harrowed in, to be followed by two or three years of pasture or hay, when the plough may be used, and during which time, the girdled trees are either cut into fenc- ing stuff or burnt. No lime has been used as yet upon this land, and I was told of two instances, where farmers had ab- solutely built new stables and barns, to escape from an accu- mulation of despised manure. A few miles before reaching Gait, the residence of Mr Dickson, we came in view of a fine stream, bearing the name of Grand River, but, of course, quite unconnected with the Uttawas of the lower part of the province. The settlement of Mr Dickson is one of much interest, being conducted by himself, on hie own resources, in the same way as that of Colonel Talbot on the banks of Lake Erie. Mr Dickson began operations in 1815 16, by the purchase « 19 Each regular as capi- kc, of a )rchards all that a fruit- le town- arriage ; y years, esemble live and 1 affairs, Dickson le death this set- Canada ons, &c. t 25 dol- St some- ill be 15 )1. The )wn and at. The ly, costs », a crop or three sed, and ito fenc- ipon this had ab- an accu- of Mr he name with the interest, the same ike Erie, purchase I « from Government of this township, extending to 06,000 acres, and to which he gave the name of Dumfries. He selected a convenient spot, with good water-power, to commence a town, and formed a conjiexion with an enterprising American, who speedily established very extensive mills. Mr Dickson built a commodious residence for himself, in a romantic situ- tion, overhanging the river, and communicating hy a bridge with the mills and town. His plan of dealing with settlers is extremely liberal, as he does not insist upon any instalment being paid down ; and even, in some cases, advances the means of purchasing oxen, &c. In this way, the poorest emigrant, if steady and industrious, must get forward. A regular account is opened with each individual, and par- tial payments, either in money or proiiuce, accepted by Mr Dickson, from time to time. The price of land is 4 dollars or 20s. per acre. Farms have been occasionally abandoned by unsteady or impatient individuals ; but some progress in clearing has always been made, and, of course, the farm has, in so far, been rendered more valuable. A very considerable extent of land has been disposed of, upon both sides of the river, and hundreds of acres of fine wheat are to be seen contiguous to each other. An attempt had been made last spring to convey produce down the river to the Welland Canal, by which Mr Shade, the owner of the mills, informed me, a saving of two-thirds would be effected upon the transports of flour. This voyage- was performed by a son of Mr Dickson, accompanied by Mr Shade; and being a navigation of about 100 miles, at- tended with some liazards, as a first attenipt, it created a good deal of sensation at the time of my visit, and much sa- tisfaction among the farmers, by its success. Mr Dickson has about 2500 souls upon in's estate, and draws a very hand- some income from the interest of sales. 1 visited the mills with Mr Shade, who took much trouble in explaining to me the various machinery. The establishment comprises flour- mills, saw-mills, cooperage, &c., and appeared to me equally extensive and well arranged. 1 have been every where struck with the havock and destruction of the woods, and liad a re- markable opportunity, at this place, of contrasting the value of a tree in Upper Canada with what it would have fetched at home. An uncommonly large and beautiful pine was ly- ing at the mill, which 1 could not estimate at less than £2 in b3 . . 20 \ 1 . I Britain. Mr Shade, upon my putting the question, told me it just cost him a York shiili/ifr, or sevenpencc sterling. Saturday^ I5th May. — Mr William Dickson having kindly insisted upon conveying and accompanying me to Hamilton, >vhere I was to resume the stage, we started, on horseback, after breakfast, and visited various farms upon the township. The road lay along the river, wltli much fine wood and beau- tiful scenery. The crops were looking healthy and well co- loured. Some farms, partly improved and fenced, with houses, were on sale, — the price demanded was 8 dollars, or 408 per acre. There seemed to be abundance of water every where, both from springs and brooks falling into tlie Grand River, and the substratum was still limestone. Some miles below Gait, there is a valuable gypsum quarry on the banks of the river, and it was curious to observe the line of rich and verdant turf, which marked the route of the waggons in their visits to the quarry, from scattering as they went along, strongly evincing the effect as a top-dressing. We called upon a settler from Scotland, newly entered upon a farm of 100 acres, for which he had paid down £100. The soil was a good, rich, sandy lonm, wortli in l^ritain 35s. per acre at least of rent. The forest Is here thin, probably not having more than forty or fifty old oaks upon an acre, and not requiring these to be destroyed, \. being quite possible to guide the plough through the intervals. Walter Smith was busy with his pair of oxen, preparing the land for wheat, of which he expected to have tliirty acres sown In autumn, the return from which will probably repay him the price of his farm, and allow him £50 or £60 besides for his labour and niaintenance,yro»i thejirst crop alone. There are some delightful situations in this quarter for mansions : the river upon one side, and a lovely sheet of wa- ter, called the Blue Lake, upon the other; fine open woods, springs, brooks, and a dry healthy soil. It was a favourite haunt in old limes of the Indians, and a little mound close by a copious spring, is still celebrated as a place where great councils were held. We stopped to rest our horses, at a new village called Paris, belonging to a very active individual of the name of Capron, and having a good water-power, and other advantages, it promises to become, ere long, a place of some importance. In the afternoon we reached Brandtford, a pretty considerable village belonging to the Indiana, a tract of Ian It is II to tlu and f( numb is an i Brand now farms, and d Th. partly high, '. tered. Imn brink view o St Cat Canal, [locks. The jtween remark State o the cell land, o with CO ed this ^Sthe fail: (j Befbi /jEmigra pverage 'May 15 Plough Waggo Farm \ Oxen f Cows ': Sheep li Swine Poultry Farm s Femah 21 Id mc of land in this quarter having been reserved for their hohoof. It is managed bv Government, wiio account for rent and sales to the chiefs. There had been a sale of village lots this day, and for the first time I mw the Indians assembled in any number. The lots sold for £25 one-fourth of an acre, which is an immense price in Canada, and argues an expectation ot* Brandttbrd continuing to prosper. Many of the Indians arc now beginning to acquire settled habits, and to cultivate farms, but many more are yet totally abandoned to idleness and debauchery. The country to Hamilton by Ancaster, is partly forest, {)artly settled. The soil is chiefly clay. Ancaster stands ligh, with some fine farms about it, healthy and well wa- tered. Immediately before reaching Hamilton, we come to the brink of a high limestone ridge, and command a magnificent view of the rich flat, below, extending to Lake Ontario. At .\ St Catharine's, a small town dependent upon the Welland i Canal, we paased that work, and saw some of the wooden flocks. The country through which I travelled next day lies be- tween the great limestone ridge and Lake Ontario. This remarkable ridge extends from the (ienessee country, in the State of New- York, and, crossing the Niagara River, forms .,the celebrated falls. It is beautifully diversified with wood- fland, orchards, and farms, is very productive, and settling with considerable rapidity. On Monday evening 1 conclud- ied this part of my excursion, by reaching a friend's house at %he falls. (' Before proceeding to the third branch of my letter, viz. ^migration to the United States, I may notice the current laverage prices of some articles in Upper Canada, at this date, iMay 1831 : Ploughs from . £1 10 Waggons . . 15 Farm horses, 5 yrs old, 12 10 Oxen for draught . 10 Cows . . .20 . Sheep . . 5 i Swine . . . 10 I Poultry . . ] Farm servants ^ an. 24 Female ditto ditto 12 10 n to £2 Currency. to 15 to 12 10 W pair. to 3 to 7 6 to 15 F Cwt. n to 30 and board. to 15 22 h • £0 5 • 3 H • 1 • 1 5 • 2 6 from 1 B. 3d . to Is. lOd. • H • 7i May Ist, 1831— Prices of Farm Produce Wheat ^ bushel of 60 lb. Barlt?y do. of 56 lb. Oats do. of 36 lb. Hay l?* ton Corn (Maize) ^ bushel of 60 lb. Potatoes do do. Pork ^ \h. . . . > Butter do. ... . Labourers were receiving last spring about 8 dollars or 40 "hilUngi. per month, and board, at the canals and public vorkc This tine province is making wonderful advances, and when the canals and some projected railways are fairly in operation, its progress will become yet more rapid. In IS^^, 10,000 bushels of wheat were shipped i:pon Ontario from Burlington Bay, and in 1S30 the export had reached to 150,000 i jshels. Fivr» bushels of wheat are allowed to the barrel of flour. The two great Canada canals have given rise to much puo- lic and private discussion ; and opinions of their value, diame- trically opposed to each other, are entertained by men who would seem equally qualified to judge. The VVelland canal, which connects Lake Erie and Lake OiViario, avoiding the Niagara Falls, is intended for mercan- tile purposes. The Prideau canal has been executed by Go- vernment M'ith a view both to mercantile and military pur* poses. Without at all presuming to give an opinion, 1 feel bound to state, that the impression made upon my mind, by those persons whom I considered perfect masters of the whole bearings of the case, and whom I know to be independent and disinterestec men, is adverse to the utility and probable suc- cess of these great works. Heavy as the expense, however, has been, we must not rashly infer that it has been altogether thrown away ; and, although it is possible that a far more moderate expenditure upon roads and railways might have been attended with happier results, we must yet hope to see essential and important benefits flowing from these canals. IIL — United States. In offering a few remarks upon the prospects of emigrants to the States, so many circumstances occur upon which it would be necessary to touch, that I almost shrink from the alten vered deniz for hi meroi them: feet i sense friend Tw in fix chase or he 1 portio I on the way, t in fixii man v should a pure any of we art ment. I The I States lannoyi I in rece larrear |ever, /Iwhich ^iall the f A bi |)resen festabli: Intend i dispatc ^ I ha •^ lywa pporti nd re uren, Iwhich t |Mr Hal 23 irs or 40 id public md when (peration, l-, 10,000 urlington ) I jshels. lour. luch pao- le, diame- meu who nd Lake mercan- d l)y Go- It ary pur- )n, I feel mind, by the whole ndenl and able sue- however, dtogether far more ight have )pe to see canals. emigrants which it from tljf attempt. The great and interesting tie which must bo se- vered when we leave our native countr", and become the denizens of anotlier, is a point which every man must settle for himself Should it prove no impediment, he will find nu- merous and varied fields of agricultural enterprise presenting themselves in every quarter of the Union. He will find per- fect security and independence, and, with ordinary good sense and good humour, can have no difficulty in inaintaining friendly habits with his neighbours. Two plans present themselves to the emigrant with capital in fixing his residence in the States. He may either pur- chase or occupy a farm in the old settled part of the country, or he may establish himself in some of .,iie new or yet unsettled portions of the older states. The choice must be dependent on the means and character of the individual, but, in either way, the greatest risik of disappointment will always be found in fixing too hastily. 1 would strongly recommend to every man who may emigrate to Canada or the States, that he should allot some months to looking about him, ere he make a purchase, which it is not again so easy to exchange, should any of those numerous drawbacks present themselves, which we are ever too apt to overlook in the excitement of the mo- ment. The arrangements for managing and disposing of the United States' public lands are very complete, and no difficulty or annoyance is likely to occur, if we except, perhaps, the delay ^in receiving i\\c Jbrmal title or patent, occasioned by a heavy arrear cf business in that department. This occasions, how- ever, neither loss nor hazard, as the warrant of possession which every purchaser immediately receives, secures him in all the rights of property. A bureau at Washington, under a head commissioner (at present Judge Hayvvard), superintends the various land-offices jBstablished throughout every part of the country, and where intending parchasers are treated with the utmost civility and dispatch. I had the honour of being personally introduced to Mr «yward by the President himself; and 1 would take this pportunity of expressing my deep sense of the cordial and ind reception I met with from Geueral Jackson, Mr Van uren, and others, and of the candid and open manner in hich the business of the land-office was explained to me by Mr Hay ward. 24 II'' As it is impossible, within reasonable terms, to discuss seriatim the respective fitness of the different States for afford- ing comfortable settlements to British emigrants, I sliall de- *ail my own personal observations, made upon the Banks of the Hudson, above Albany, and in some parts of the Genes- see country, and the information which I was enabled to col- lect, from most respectable settlers in Michigan, as a fiair sam- ple of what is generally to be expected in the western coun- try, leaving such inferences to be drawn as the statements deserve. Various classes of settlers are to be found in the States, from the man of substance and capital to the rougli backwoods- man and squatter i but a minute discussion of the several grades does not seem to be hero required. The ficst farm which I visited was iu the immediate vicinity of Albany, forming part of the princely estate of Mr Van Ransalser. It contained 603 acres of fine mellow loam along the banks of the river, divided into fields by rail-fences, which cost here 4s. 6d. per sixteen feet, including boards, nails, and work, — lour rails, and about five feet high. The crops chiefly raised are wheat, Indian corn, with pumpkins, planted in the intervals or rows, oats, potatoes, and large quantities of Timothy for hay. The buildings are of timber, handsome and convenient. The farm was let, some years ago, at 2000 dollars, or £4-50, which, in America, seems to be a very high rent; but it must be recollected that the situation is particularly favourable, from its close contact with the thriving city of Albany. A turnpike road upon Macadam's principle has commenced, from Albany to the north, and six miles of it are already com- pleted, at an expense of £2000. It runs through the centre of this farm. It is, at present, the home farm of the eldest son of Mr Van Ransalaer, who has imported, at considerable expense, from England, some fine short horn stock, and which he is very successfully crossing, with a judicious selec- tion of native cows. Although very fine cattle and sheep are to be found in some districts, I am satisfied that more may be done in the depart- ment if live-stock, than in any other branch of American hus- bandry* As the country becomes more populous, manufactures (al- ready far advanced) will continue to increase, and fat stock, with dairy produce, must become objects of greater import- a very I much i to a lai Ikets. purchai pble ra Ibutchei I ward tl fin such Jket. S onths jvery j stock fj ^ork ta ^hese « md the fiappy t :;oincide )n a sin )umkin )urchas )enses , -head $d. a da this seat ^ gener lal. Tc 1 Horsf #d, and h the qi |||qss a fa ttansferr #ell fed, fd instai irst-rate lands, o From inhere 1 1 fxaminec Toaff Id farms lade, at discuds r aiFord- iliall de- 3ank8 of ! Genes- 1 to col- fair sam- rn coun- itcments 3 States, ;kwoods- ! several B vicinity Mr Van im along Bs, which mils, and )rn, with toes, and rs are of or £4-50, jt it must voLirable, any. A menced, ady com- le centre le eldest aiderable ock, and )us selec- d in some depart- ican hus- tures (al- fat stock, x import- 25 nnce to the farmer than they have hitherto been. I met with a very intelligent cattle-dealer in Pennsylvania, who gave me much information on this subject. . He and his partners deal, to a large extent, for the Philadelphia and New York mar- ket?- The system appeared to be perfectly organized. They 'purchase all the fat stock tl —y can procure within a reason- jable range of these cities, which are first disposed of to the |butchers ; and having thus cleared the field, they bring for- I ward their droves from the back settlements or distant states, fin such a succession, as supplies, without glutting the mar- nket. Some of their cattle travel above 600 miles, and are two Imonths on the road. He told me that he purchased 400 oxen fevery year from one Kentucky farmer, and he considers a Istock farm to be a very sure and profitable concern. New ^ork takes about 700 oxen a-week, when the demand is brisk, 'hese weigh, on an average, about 5.5 stone, l^ lb. to a stone; md the price he receives, is from £1^ to £13 n-head. I was lappy to find his opinion regarding live and dead weight to :omcide near!}' with my own. When prime Jat^ he reckons )n a sink of one-third only, on the live weight. He dislikes- mmkin fed beef, and always insists on the animals which he )urchases being fed, at least latterly, on maize. His ex- )enses are high, much of his stock costing him above £2 -head in road expenses ; and he gives his head drivers 4s. j|d. a day, with food for themselves and horses. His profits this season, he says, have been very handsome, and the trade in general is a good ^ne to a steady man, with Su cient capi- tal. Town manure costs about 3d. a waggon load. Horses, in all parts of the States and Canada, which I visit- ed, and I believe universally, are to be remarked as superior in the qualities of action, strength, and figure. It is rare to pass a farmer's team, without noticing horses worthy of being transferred to any gentleman's stud. They are kindly treated, #ell fed, and remarkably docile, of which I met wiih repeat- ed instances, which would have not a little astonished our prst-rate English coachmen. They are in general about 15 'fands, or 15j, and cost from £10 to £25 each. From Albany, I proceeded about 30 miles up the river, ^here I spent several days with a friend, and, in his company, camined some farms, then on sale, in his neighbourhood. To afford some idea of the expected prices and returns of Id farms in this district, I shall subjoin a few notes, which I lade, at the time of my visit. 96 \m 1 1- ■ *v < Ist, Captain Davenport's farm on the east bank of the Hudson. It contains 350 acres, 100 of which are in wood, hemlock, or Canada pine (the bark of which is in general use for tanning), maple, beech, &c. The soil is partly clay, partly sandy loam. A large portion is a rich holm, on the river side, and of the finest quality. The price demanded is 30 dollars, £7 lOs. per acre ; but it would probably be bought for 25 dollars, or £5 12s. The return might reasonably be expected to reach £112 10s., clear of expenses, from the flat land, and £"70 from the profit on a sheep stock, on the upper portion of the farm, in whole £182 10s. The price would be at £5 10., £IH75, and an outlay on buildings, fences, and drains, of £1000 more, would still be within ^^3000, for which you have a return of above £l80c In making this rough estimate, I resolved to be moderate in estimating returns, and liberal in calculating outlay, and am perfectly satisfied that an industrious Scotch farmer would easily realize a profit of £200 a-year. It is to be noticed also, that one-half of the timber might be at once sold off, without any detriment to the farm, and that I calculate upon the owner and his family drawing the ordinary articles of subsistence from the land, besides the above return. 2d, Next to this farm, was that of Mr Knickerbocker, con- taining 275 acres. There is a fine holm also on this farm, and the upland seemed fully better than No. 1. This farm, was let last year in shares for one year, and the owner receiv- ed £63. The price asked is £i' per acre, or £l 100, and £200 more would be required fcr houses, fences, &c. There is no more timber than is requisite for the use of the estate. This farm seemed to be in very indifferent order. 2d, Mr Chesney's farm, 106 acres, with wood sufficient for use of the property. About 40 acres of very fine holm, capa- ble of yielding, I was assured, 40 or 45 bushels of oats, or other grain in proportion. This farm could be had for £530, and would certainly return £45 or £50 clear. It was in very fair order. 4th, Mr Vely's farm, 118 acres, 40 acres of most superior holm ; the upland good ; with a stream running through it. The houses appear to be new. This farm could be had for £400, and the return could not be less than £35 or £40. 5th, A farm of 300 acres, occupied by Colonel Grant, at a rent of 300 dollars, £67 10s. The soil is good loam, nine 27 ik of the in wood, ineral use ay, partly the river dec! is 30 e bought )nably be m the flat the upper would be nces, and for which his rough urns, and sfied that a profit of ber might farm, and iwing the esides the cker, con- his farm, his farm, ler receiv- and £S^00 lere is no te. This ficient for m, capa- oats, or or £530, as in very t superioi irough it. e had fof £40. rant, at a am, nine parts of it are clay. A new dwelling-house, and a good barn, with a valuable wood lot. It might be bought for £1500. The whole of these properties were evidently susceptible of great improvement, though in foul and bad condition. The local situation was good ; the Champlain Canal passing within half a mile, but separated by the river. The roads are either already turnpike, or becoming such, though cer- tainly not of a description to pass through the ordeal of Mr Macadam. Nos. 3 and ^ are contiguous, and might be ad- vantageously thrown into one estate. The following list of prices, &c. I procured from the best authority as current in April 1831 : — < Current Prices, and Rales of JVa^es, on Hudson River, above Albany, April 1831. Wages* — Men for general farm-work, summer, £2, 5s. per month ; winter, £1, 7s. per month. Harvest-voork, cradling wheat, 4«. 6d. per day. A cradle-scythe is said to cut four acres a-day, and requires one man to bind to each cradler. Hay cutting, 2s. 7d. a-day. — Board found besides to all these. Good cooks, 18s. to 27s. per month. Chamber-maids, 13s. 6d. to 18s. per month. Live Stock — Good ordinary horses, £20 to £25. Oxen, per pair, with yoke and chain, £20 to £30. Cows, £4, 10s. to £6. Merino sheep, 9s. to 18s.; Saxony, 13s. 6d. to ^5&. ; common sheep, a sort of coarse Leicesters, 4s. 6d. to 9s. after shearing. Brood sow, £2, 5s. to £3, 10s. Hogs, Id. to l^d. per lb. on live weight. Geese, 2s. lOd. a pair. Turkeys, 2s. Id. each. Fowls, G^d. Utensils. — Farm waggon, £13, lOs. Ox cart, £10. Lum- ber sleigh, £3 to £5. Ploughs, 30s. to 3Gs. Pleasure sleigh, £7 to £70; ditto waggon, £9 to £35. Good double harness, £\S. Produce. — -Wheat, 6s. 9d. per bushel. Barley, 2s. 8d. do. Oats, Is. 6d. do. Indian corn, 2s. 3d. do. Potatoes, Is. 3d. do. Beef, per quarter, 18s. to 23s. ; per lb. 2d. to 4d. Mut- ton, Ud. to 2d. per lb. Veal, do. Pork, 22^. to 27s. per cwt. Hay, from 23s. to £3, lOs. per ton. Cider, 4s. 6d. to ISs. per barrel, of 32 gallons. Wool, merino, 2s. 7d.; common, Is. 8d. per lb. (16 oz. to lb ) Live goose feathers, 2s. Id. per lb. Butter, 5d. per lb. Cheese, 2d. to 4d. per lb. Eggs, 4d. to 5d. per doz. Brandy (French), 4s. 6d. per gallon. Gin, 3s. do. Whisky, Is. Id. to Is. 6d. do. Excellent table c 28 I °' beer, 4s. 6il. per barrel of 32 gallons. Fire-wood, 13s. 6(1. country price ; 22s. to 27s. town price, per cord, of 128 cubic feet, delivered 4 feet long, and costs 28. per cord to cut to length required for use. The American farmers live corr.fortably, and at a very mo- derate expense. Candles and soap are generally manufac- tured from kitchen refuse. A good housewife assured me, that the butcher-meat for her family, fifteen in number, did not exceed in luhole Is. per day (three meals), excep* when she allowed them turkeys and other poultry, when she reck- oned the expense at 2s. 6d. The flour cons'imed did not exceed 4s. 6d. per week. They have fruit, both fresh and preserved, in the utmost profusion ; and the cider barrel is always ready broached. A good many articles of clothing are spun, or woven at home ; and the geese are subjected to periodical contributions towards the bedding of the house- hold, or the feathers sold at a good price. At a later period in my tour, I passed through a consider- able portion of the Genessee country, celebrated for its great fertility, and the superior quality of its produce. Upon en- tering this part of New York state from Canada, I was im- irjediately struck by the superior quality of the cattle. On many farms, I observed a variety of these in shape and size greatly resembling the heavy class of our west Highlanders. They were chiefly of a dark brindled colour, and many of them really handsome. I did not see one portion of the Genessee district, which is said to be uncommonly rich ; but what came under my view, in a journey of between three and four hundred miles, in this part of the country, was certainly very fine. The surface is finely undulated, — rivers, brooks, lakes, farms, villages, and forest scenery, all presenting them- selves in succession. The soil is sometimes rather light, but generally a gocd, and often a rich black loam. The crops of wheat, clover, rye, pease, and Indian corn, all looked well ; and the orchards of peach, plum, apple, &c. were richly laden with blossom. The houses and buildings I found generally very good. Where land is let for a money rent, it is commonly 4s. 6d. per acre. Old farms sell from £4, 10s. to £9 per acre, including houses, orchards, &c. I found every where in this quarter noble single trees, elm, oak, &c. judiciously left in the fields, affording both ornament and shelter, and the total absence of which, in many culti- vated portions of Canada and the States, gives an appearance 1 3s. 6(1. !8 cubic 9 cut to erymo- lanufac- red me, aer, did )t when le reek- did not 2sh and jarrel is clothing ected to J house- jonsider- its great Jpon en- was ira- lle. 9n and size ilanders. many of 1 of the ich ; but hree and certainly brookS; ng them- ight, but ian corn, pple, &c. }uilding3 a money sell from &c. •ees, elm, ornament iny culti- pearance 29 of nakedness even in situations where wood is treated as a nuisance. I would remark, also, that a great improvement, in shelter and beauty, would be ettected, by frequently sub- stituting hedges for rail-fences. An English farmer near Geneva, I was informed, has miles of fine hawthorn hedges, four feet high, and completely belying the assertion that thorns will not succeed in America. His practice is to plant in a trench, not upon a ridge or bank, as the great risk of failure is from the summer drought. Before reaching Albany, I travelled the greatest part of one day through the valley of the Mohawk, and upon which lie the rich German flats. It is a noble country, and the Ipnd of the first quality, but farmed too often in a slovenly manner. The country of Michigan, which I have selected as a sample of new settlement in the west, is at present quite the rage, and has, in a great degree, supplanted Ohio, Illinois, Ac. It lies between 41° 31' and 4-5° 40' N. Lat., and 5° 12' and 10° W. Long., to the westward of Lake Erie, and in- cluding an immense extent of country capable of improve- ment, with fine water privileges. Detroit, an old French town, is its capital. By a reference to the map, it will be seen that Michigan can readily avail itself of New York, New Orleans, or Montreal, as Markets, and must, of course, de- rive from such facilities of intercourse considerable advantage. The climate is temperate and healthy. Winter sets in gene- rally about the middle of November, and continues till about the middle of March. At Detroit, in 1818, the mean heat of January was 24° ; and in 1 820, the mean heat of July was 69° ; of December 27°. The soil is 'u\ general a good fertile loam, upon limestone ; and, in some places, a calcareous earth is turned up, mixed with the common soil, which is extremely productive. Clay is also prevalent in some parts. This territory is better watered than any other in the United States. There is an abundance of game, deer, bears, hares, ducks, turkey, quail, &c. and it is finely diversified with lakes and brooks, rising in most parts from copious springs. Besides other sources of information, I happened to travel, at different times, with two Michigan settlers, who said much in its praise, and, although it is quite usual for that class of persons to magnify the advantages of a country where they 30 I* are themselves fixed, I have every reason to believe that the statements, separate and distinct, which I received from these individuals, were substantially correct, having found them, in all essential points, not only to confirm each otlier, but also to be corroborated by other documents and evidence, which it was impossible to doubt. The first of these individuals whom I met, was a fellow- pf.ssenger in the track-boac from Buffalo to Rochester, upon the great Erie canal, he appeared to be one of those cha- racters so numerous in the States, who are always ready to make a move when they consider it likely to better their con- dition, or even to offer reasonable hopes of a fair return^ for indulging their love of enterprise. He and a brother had, in this way, explored Michigan a few years ago, and had picked up various lots of land, near intended towns, harbours, &c., for which they paid 5s. 7^d. per acre, and which can already be sold for 22s. 6d. per acre. They intend to dispose of some and to occupy part themselves, as he likes the country for a residence. He considers it superior to Ohio, as being more healthy. The country is in some places under heavy timber, and in others it is open prairie, where a settler has nothing to do but to start his plough. The soil is in general a loamy blackish sand, very productive. Eighty acres may be pur- chased in the Government Land-office for £22, 10s. A Mr Gilbert, who realized a fortune as a contractor for work on the Erie canal, has transferred his capital to and fixed his re- sidence in Michigan. He vested £2250 in land, which, at .5s. Tid. per acre, makes a tolerably extensive domain. He is farming and improving with great spirit, and this autumn he will have 400 acres in wheat. As a proof of the admixture of calcareous matter in much of the soil, Mr Gilbert had a tract of what he considered to be very sterile sand, and not worth os. an acre to sell. His men having been sent to procure some of this sand, to be employed in building, they found their hands blistered i and, upon a farther investigation, the calcareous matter in the sand has proved so useful, that Mr Gilbert would not take 25s. an acre now for what he had pre- viously esteemed of so little value. Wheat is selling readily at Detroit for 4s. 6d. per bushel ; the return is from 20 to 40 bushels per acre. My other Michigan friend is established in the town of Up- silante, a city which does not yet figure in any map. He holds land and farms, but his proper avocation is somewhat miscel- \ be ft U setth 5s. 7 favoii great little Mi Intel! expei hous( place cann( rests Wasl scene sists &c. after likely of St( Horst pair, mand with f The I try, b the se Sue and w coiTec I m even V 31 that the )m these them, in but niso 2, which I fel low- er, upon :)se cha- ready to leir con- turn i for r had, in ;d picked urs, &c., \ already of some try for a ing more r timber, othingto a loamy be pur- A Mr work on d his re- hich, at H. He is tumn he ixture of d a tract ot worth procure 3y found ion, the that Mr had pre- ; readily 20 to 40 1 of Up • ^e holds ; miscel- i lancous. He has built a large tavernf opened a warehouse or store, and runs a stage for sixty miles. He appeared to be an uncommonly shrewd sensible man, looking sharp after every thing. When we met, he was travelling to New York, to make purchases of goods for the season, and inter a/ia, two or three additional coaches. The influx of emigrants at present to Michigan is quite remarkable. Seven steam-vessels ply from Buffalo to Detroit, and the decks have been swarming every day since the navigation opened for the season. Mr Stack- house is convinced, that, for many years a home-market will be found among the new settlers for all the Michigan produce. Land-offices are established in various situations, where the settler may provide himself with a farm at the usual rate of 5s. 7^d. per acre. Should he chance to fancy one in some favoured spot (most of which are already secured along the great road for 300 miles through the country), he will have httle difficulty in procuring it for 12s. or 15s. an acre. Michigan is not yet admitted into the union as a state. Intelligent settlers consider this to be no disadvantage. The expence of their public works, as roads, bridges, jails, court- houses, &c., are defrayed by the General Government, in place of being assessed upon themselves ; and although they cannot boast of one or two members of Congress, their inte- rests are sufficiently watched by a delegate, who resides at Washington for that purpose. Mr Stackhouse describes the scenery as in many places highly romantic. The timber con- sists of black walnut, elm, beech, oak, hickory, sugar maple, &c. The produce of the land runs from 25 to 50 bushels after one bushel sown of wheat, Indian corn, &c. Turnips are likely to succeed well, also beet and mangel wurzel. Prices of stock, &c., seem to be much the same as in Canada. Horses cost from £18 to £22, 10s.; oxen from £15 to £18 a pair. Mechanics are establishing themselves wherever de- mand for their labour is found. The lakes and rivers abound vvith fish, as trout, white fish, bass, &c., and game is plentiful. The Indians are found in the more remote parts of the coun- try, but they ar« perfectly harmless, and seldom come near the settlers. Such is an outline of the account I received of Michigan, and which, I have no doubt, is, in all essential particulars, COlTCCt. I may add that, from the rapid improvement which has even already taken place, in regard to communication, the c3 ji"? w» ■ ".^vw,! "^^'^"-mmfiHimmr 32 journey from Michigan to New York Is easily nccomplisheil in six (lays. In 18*20, a (lovernment Expedition was sent into the west- ern country, for the purpose of a8t?ertaining the natural ad- vantages and productions. Tho report is highly favourahlf; to the fertility and capabilities of Michigan. An extensive range of country upon the river and bay of Saganaw, on Lake Huron, is spoken of, in terms of higii admiration, for the richness of the soil, and natural beauty of tlic scenery, and also as presenting uncommon inducements to enterprising and industrious farmers and mechanics, from its central and advantageous position for business. Saganaw Bay is about 60 miles in length, and 30 miles wide, with numerous fine islands. It is 180 miles west of Detroit. Game is mention- ed to be very abundant, consisting of deer, bear, brown rab- / bit) or hare, weighing about 6 lb., partridge or grouse, pigeons, ducks, Sec. Fox River is also specially noticed as highly desirable for settlers, in regard to quality of soil, beauty, and local advantages. It runs into the west end of Lake Michigan. I made out a rough estimate of a supposed investment in Michigan, and having submitted it to the correction of com- petent judges, acquainted with the present state of the dis- trict, it may perhaps be useful to insert it, especially as it applies also to much of Upper Canada. Price of 160 acres, at 1.^ dollar, is 200 dollars, or £46 Expense of seed, labour, (say 150 acres), and rail fence, at 6 dollars 900 202 10 Harvesting at 2 dollars 300 67 10 Cost of dwelling-house, stables, &c 800 liiO 2200 _£495 Returns. — Produce of 150 acres, (20 bushels per actc) 3000 bushels,, at Is. per bushel, £675 Deduct 495 £180 clear. The dollar is taken at 48. 6d. No allowance is made for maintenance, and it may be said that the expences are un- derrated. The above estimate, however, is given upon pretty good data, and as the settler will certainly repeat the wheat crop for at least one or two seasons more without any de- terioration, and becomes likewise free owner of land and houses, he may afford to double or treble that item, or to take a smaller return per acre, or a lower price per bushel» and t^-\ 3S etill be very well off'. The return was stated to me at IH or 30 bushels per acre at an average, and a dollar was the price given last season without any particular excitement. The houses are of a superior description, the dwelling-houses being supposed to contain seven or eight rooms, with kitchen and other domestic ofiices attached. A good deal of discussion took place before the Emigra- tion Committee, upon the probability of settlers being able to refund a portion or the whole of the sums advanced by Government on their account. Should there be any founda- tion at all for the statement I have here given, it is abund- antly clear, that Mr Wilinot Horton's expectations on that head may be very easily realised. The tide of emigration is at present setting very strong into Michigan. It is stated in the Detroit Courier of 26th May last, "that the sales of public lands, up to 5 o'clock yesterday, amounted to 20,700 dollars! On two several days, they exceeded 5000; one day, 5600. The total amount, in this district alone, since the 1st of March, is 48,727 dollars." Products of Michigan. — The cotton plant, the grape-vine, the sweet potatoe of Carolina, tomato, and the egg plant, were all successfully cultivated last year. The prune-tree will be planted this season. The mulberry is becoming ex- tensively cultivated. The period cannot be remote when pauperism mu-^t be- come an object of anxious investigation, as it already is of deep solicitude to every well wisher of his country, and must be followed up with measures of energy and decision adequate to the political and moral importance of the subject. While it may well be esteemed a dubious policy to pamper population by any permanent system of encouragement, few thinking minds will deny that the existing pressure, (whether it may be an actual excess or not), ought to be forthwith re- moved, and with no farther delay than the discovery of a safe and practicable vent may require. Whether we contemplate the mass of wretchedness and sickening hopelessness in which thousands of well-meaning labourers and artisans are at this moment plunged, or the absorbing demands which their necessities occasion, by the amount o^ parish rates, all must concur in the anxious wish, that some remedy may be ere long devised. We have writ- 34 ten and said so much upon this subject, that, from the very attempts to throw in h'ght, it has become marvellously mysti- fied and confused. Neither is it to be concealed that con- siderable and conflicting difficulties exist, thougli it is believ- ed and hoped, none which patient investigation and a liberal policy may not overcome. It nay be reasonably assumed, that parishes distressed by rates will readily concur in a fair and final composition, which is to free them from a heavy and a growing annual charge. Government, on the other Iiand, by receiving such funds, and making simple and eco- nomical arrangements, may not only relieve the pressure at home, but will also confer happiness and independence upon those who have unhappily occasioned the distress. Neither does it seem necessary to open the public purse for this de- sirable object ; on the contrary, by a judicious selection of settlements, and reserving lots of government-lands adjoining those devoted to emigrants, there can be little doubt that, in a few years, considerable sales may be effected. The man who finds himself and family comfortably and conveniently settled upon fifty or an hundred acres, will ere long be wil- ling and able to pay for a like quantity, which has been left along- side of his farm, and in this way Government may be amply reimbursed. In regard to the question of place, Upper Canada would seem, on many accounts, to be most appropriate ; nor can I bring myself, for a moment, to put Tasmania, New Hol- land, &c. in competition, however high the eulogiums which my respected friend the Editor of the Journal of Agriculture has passed upon Australasia. A pestilential and impure moral atmosphere hangs over these colonies, which will re- quire a very long period tn dispel ; and although this can be certainly best effected by a wholesome infusion of character from home, it must provw a heavy sacrifice to those indivi- duals, who undertake the task. The climate, the soil, the accessibility of North America, with various other circum- stances, offer nearly an assurance of success. The experi- ments hitherto made by Government, in those colonies, al- though far indeed from having failed, might certainly have been conducted in a more satisfactory and economical man- ner. The settlers sent out by Government have been of that class which could contribute nothing but manual labour, and the transaction must nece^^sarily assume a very different as- much noura gister to ser any si rally t suredl made for th( prevci time, But tl are in fbetwe may b lo jpratioi IfVievv fesses under ;thcr, t ;and it Jplus vv ♦tem m ^or con^ bound |preser\ Ibers, a [which fpers to [Engl is II a5 la would nor can iew Hol- ns whicli riculture impure 1 will re- s can be character 5e indivi- soil, the circum- 3 experi- nies, al- inly have cal man- n of that )our, and 'erent as- pect, it' pnrislies are called upon lo bear a orincipul part ot* the expense. ISettleuierits have bten established aUu in a manner not (uiitc judicious. They iiave bven dropped too much at ranciom, and at remote distances tVoni eacii other, deprived oi' all the comfort antl support which a more con- centrated system would have produced. It is obvious that, in dealing with our dead weight of po- pulation, two classes must be formed, viz. those who tv//4,and those who cannot, bear a certain portion of the necessary expense of removal. With the (irst of these descriptions of emigrants, it will not be very ditlicult to make suitable ar- rangements ; and as to the latter, there can be no doubt that much good may be attained by the establishment of an ho- nourable and active agency in Canada, to ascertain and re- gister the wants of the colonists, or public works, in regard to servants, artisans, and labourers, to receive and husband any small funds which the emigrants may possess, and gene- rally to supply a link in the chain, which is at present as- suredly wanting. In this way, communications might be made to the mother country of the probable supply required for the ensuing season, and much distress and disappointment prevented. It may be said that Government has, at this time, emigrant agents in Canada, and such is truly the case. But these gentlemen are engaged in mercantile pursuits, and are in many respects qualified for Cot.'.blii}hing that connexion between the colonists and emigrants, which, it is thought, may be advantageously procured. To some men, and those too of no ordinary stamp, emi- igration, under any modification, is an object of dismay. iViewing it as palpable encouragement of evil, which it pro- cesses to remove, they cannot be induced to countenance it, ijunder any circumstances. It may be doubted, however, whe- ther, theory is not carried by such economists rather too st, or the frugal, sober, ana industrious labourer or artisan, cannot fiiil of success. For- tunes will not be rapidly or even readily acquired ; but it must be the settler's own fault if he does not enjoy, in large abundance, every solid comfort and enjoyment of life, and rear around his table even ?i forest qf^* Olive plants " mthont one single anxious thought regarding their future destination or provision. And now, gentlemen, I have only to apologise for the unexpected length to which this communication has extend- ed, and to assure you how sensible I am of its many imper- fections. I have the honour to remain, gentlemen, your most obedient servant, ADAM FERGUSSON. X N; ^.^\ Z'^:^