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O: LIBRA^v XOI^KS OK A 1MvMI H!(t\l CHICAGO TO VICTORIA V.\\( (tlVKi;- l-I. AMI, AND UE'I'UHN. 1884. I'KIN'iI«;i) H'OK' I'K*1\ .V'JM<; CIKCTIiA'I'lON. (UK .\(;<) l.'AM). MiNAI.I.V .\: CO.. I'lMNI'KKs AM) KNUlf.W i;i{8. 1 8 H .-.. UWtWPW? i NOTES OF A TRIP KKOM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA VAXlorVKKS ISLAND. AND RETURN. 1884. PUIN'rp;i> KOIf l*RIV>V'ri<: CIRCTII^iATION. ("1II(A(}<): KANI). McNALLY & CO.. I'HlNTKU.s AND ENGUAVKUS. 188 5. A large poitioq of this itiqerary has appeared iq the "Newcastle Weeklij Cfiroqicle," of Newcastle-upoq-Tyne, England Mr. James Hay, of Southsea, had previously giveq selections fronq it \r\ a paper read by him before the Literary aqd Scientific Society of Portsmouth, England It IS ^]ere printed m lull as originally written. 681,8 Gljicttgo to Victoritt, Vaijcouver's Islarid, ANO RtCTURN. Thursday, July 24, 1884, we leave Chicago at 1 v. m., via the Chicago & Alton Railroad. We have a drawing-room in a beautifid and convenient bufli'et sleeping cur. We have supper in the superb dining car "Charlton,'" said to he the largest ear ever built. In this spacious and beautiful car, with its large windows, large tables, roomy seats, excellent and attentive waiters, and generous bill of fare, we have all the luxuries and comforts of a first-class hotel. Flowers on all the tables and on other points of vantage add beauty ami fragrance to that which was already very beautiful. It is a pretty custom on the dining cars on this road for the waiters to adorn the patrons with button-hole bouquets. On this particular car, these bouquets were larger than on the other dining cars. In reply to an in(|uiry, a polite waiter laughingly explained that the bouipiets were made large to correspond with the si/e of the ear, so that not only the car should be the largest of its kind but the boiujuets likewise. It was one of Illinois' hottest days, sultry to the extreme point of endurance. Corn is the leading product of the country through which our route lay, and the corn crop looked promising. Here and there it hud been bent down considerably by heavy showers of rain. Much interest was felt in the corn crop this year, because for the preced- ing two years corn in Illinois had not conn^ up to the expected pro- lific yield. A rainstorm came on during the afternoon, and lasted, without much intermissio.i, all night. It did not make it perceptibly cooler, and sleep became almost an impossil)ility. While, however, it was not what might have been hoped, a temporary comfort to travelers, it luckily did not succeed in doing permanent damage to the corn. Friday, July 25th. We arrive in Kansas City at 8:35 a. m. The Union Depot, used by all the railroads, oieve.i In number, centring in this city, is on the flats below the city. These flats are lowlands yOTES OF A Tit 1 1* wliicli sprpiid out toward tlie Misisouri and Kaw rivers and the open country lyinjf west. Tin; Kiiw river empties into the Missouri a mile or two above Kansas City. Beyond the iunction of these two rivers ml %i J lies Wyandotte, pictures(|uely spread over risinu; yronnd. Kansas City proper is a city set on a very liij>h hill. It is also a city which has a hi^h opinion nf itself. It is the correct thiiifr to think and si)eak hiyhly of Kansas ('itv as loiiji as vou remain in it, and it is safe to do so, and entirely satisfactory to the average citi/en. It is simply just, not to seriously modify that opinion on second thoii<>hts, after hiddiiifj^ j;food-l»ye to this most proj^-ressive of Missouri cities. It has all the dash of Chicaiio, and has the ainhitjon to believe that it will rival St. I.ouis in population. It now nnnilx'rs about 100,000. The Hats present a busy scene of elevators, pork- packing and other establishments; passenger depot, freight dep(U8 and yards; and tiie numerous railroad tracks radiating in all direc- tions, — to Mexico, Califdrnia, Oregon, Manitoba; to tlu^ frozen North, the sunny South, the Pacilie slope, the .Vtlantic seaboard and the Gulf of Mexico. We get rooms at the Centropolis Hotel, and (hive n/und the city. The residence portion is constantly im])roving, and is very fine. Some of the locations present commanding views of a pleasant laiul. Fine residences are numerous, evidencing widely ditlused wealth and good taste and aspirations alter comfort. From an elevated point, in the outskirts of the city, we get extensive views in all directions. We have the Missouri in sight above and below the city ; the flats, the Kaw, Wyandotte; the flat, wooded lowlamls across the Missouri; Kansas City, on tlu; hills; and the rolling, liilly i-ountry stretching back from the city tble impression. On former visits, I availed myself of this advantageous j)oint of view, and I return to it always with pleasure. Kansas City was once, and that, too, within the nu'inory of young peo])le, Westport Landing, and nothing more. Now Westport is a not very important suburb of Kansas City, In the irony of fate the same result has befallen nniny other ambitious places in this country. Thus, Monten'y, in California, now a fishing places and a bathing and pleasure resort, and nothing more, was once expected to become what San Francisco has become. N(;w Buffalo, Indiana, and Michi- gan City, Indiana, both on Lake Michigan, each expected to \w. the great city in the West, which Chicago has become. Time disap- points many expectations. The heat was intense to-day. Saturday, July 26th. We leave Kansas City at n:.'")0 a. m., via the 1 FROM (ir/CAnO TO VrCTOlilA. Atcliisnn, Topt'ka & Santa Vr liailmad. Tin* day is insiiffcniMy hot. To liawronct', und on to TojH'ka, wo nui for lh^t't help enonjrii to cut and store tlicir crops, anil it is even said that scli. Such crops have not been reaped in Kansas for six years past. ( 'onse- (jue iitly everybody is e.\ullant, K uisas is " boominjf." and prices of land are ffoiuj; up. One result will be that these money -niak inn- Kansas farmers will devote part of their surplus earnings to a pleas- ure tri|) Kast, to visit their old homesteads from which they emi- jrrated, and to spread amonjy their old friends and neijilibors the glad tidings of fruitful Kansas, and, by their glov Mig reports, iidlu- ence anotlwi' inllux of immigration. Nominally, Kansas still contirnies to be a prohibition State. In reality, however, it is nothing of the kind. Prohibition no morc^ piohibits here than it does in other .'•^tates, in spite of an ex-(ioverMor of Kansas to the contrary, "who," said one of my inl'ormants, an indignant He|)ublican, " was the lirst Repul)lican candidate for (Jov- ernor who lost his party the State, and was deservedly 'snowed under' by thousands of adverse voters." As it is the last day of the week, cases of champagne and <'ar-loads of beer are arriving and being unloadetirn<'s mH\it weaU-inindcd people wlio l<>ave liiiniini nature out of llieir count. Such is tlie perversity of ruituie that it refuses to III' put HI prohibition moulds or other inventions of strait-jacket reformers. At Topeka, the capital of Kan^as, where we dine, I am tctld thill I "an \rv\ waiion loads nf hccr, etc, over the way. .\ resi- dent of Kansas City interpolates, that Kansas ("ity, which is a Demo- cratic, non-prohiliitidii eitv in the Democratic! State of .Mis-ouri, permits no diinkini;- on Sunday, and on that day the curiou.^ si<;ht can he witnis>ed of citi/,(;n8 of KiinsasCily, Missouri, jfoiiijf over to the prohil)ition State of Kansas to do their liipior-drinkinir. The leader in this prohiliition movement ajpears to lie in liad odor outside the cli(jU(^ which follows him ; and but one opinion about him was expressed to me, that he was a mere self-seeking ptilitician aspiiinu: to power and oflice. \' ho had mistaken his way ; an' elected to the presidency as he did of 1 leiriu' elected to I ii' iiaoacv, am 1 it IS only reasonable to suppose that he knew this just as well as every- body idse did. After passinjr an uncoinfortably hot day, we arrived at Newton, Kansas, at 0:"-.*n v. m. Ladies on the train, and who w<'re from Louisi- ana, said that it was hotter than in Louisiana. They lookeil forward with apprehension to a hot nijiht in the sleepini^ car, and envied us our stop over at nij^ht at Newton. But it was so hot that nijrht in Xewt ill 1)11(1 (> (ipiiiioii l-stckiiig Ills way ; \ (>|)fll to II. It lias lattM- (late I party tho tioM ticket he Kepiil)- tlie Deino- his lie is to laey he has iiiMiid as a His caiiili- ed vials ot" RS ex|)<)sed IS liiinit ill ])iay,"' liad ch'cted to ,-, ami it is 1 as overy- it Newton, 'rom Louisi- ced fo'ward d envied iis that night it we could i have had a more sultry experience in a sleepinj; car. Our phiii, however, was, as much as possible, to stop over at niirht, uiid travel in the day time, so as to nee all that we ei>uld of the cnuiitry. Sunday, July 'JI til. We leave Newton at i :)!(( a. .m., and liegin to-day to renew ac<|uaintanc)! with prairie ilnjr villages. Fine cntps continue to come into view, and we look out at intervals on vast hertis of cattle and horses. We arrive at Dodge City at •^:40 i". M., and depart from there at 1:45 i*. M. This iiicredihle feat was made possible by the change of meridian time taking etl'ect westward at this point. We turn our watches back one hour, and indulge in heterodox exjilaiiations of the way in wiiich the Prophet Isaiah of NOTES OF A TRIP old manipulated llie dial of Aha/. Turiiiiijf hack time is not so much of a mirach? in oiir day as in that of He/t'kiah. At J)o is fording the Arknnsas. The pictures{|ue cow-hoy assists in this crossinof. We have seen him several times as we have come aloiiy. ]ri Doiluc we see him ; and we also see his ])onies, many in nund)er, tie acquaintance, or to think of him as intellectual. If he drops into litei-ature, it is that of yellow covers and umitteraMe con- tents. His tone is loud ; his lanjruajre is plain, hut not particularly edifviny, and usually consists larj^ely (»f selections at random from IIj y Writ, not in that order, noi' of that kind, which is pleasinij to ears polite or pious, lie rides fast, drinks fast, lives fast, and it sometimes tails to him to die fast. He is doomeil to disappear like the hulValo j.nd th<' Indian. Meantime, red-sliiried or red-helted, armed, and mounted on a licet steed, he is not an uidovely streak of color on the historic spot of tliis encounter, ^'erdict of good citi/ens of I )odge : '"Pity that both had not fallen in the fray : I )odge could well luixc spared l)oth." The Arkansas river has i)een alongside for some distance, having been first noticed at Great Bend, so t'alled from the bend in the river. It remains in sight the greater part of the way until Pueblo is reached, wliMc we cross it twice, having pre\ionsly crossed it twice, once at Graiuida. and oiu-e about twenty miles wt»st of J>a .lunta. At Cimarron, we come upon the scene of a cycloiu' of last night. The houses here are chiefly of the adobe style of architecture, svitli varia- tions. They have been unroofed and much damaged, but fortunately ■5 FnO.U cmcAdO TO VfCTOIilA. 9 arc of an order which can easily, rapidly ami clieaply be repaired, or entirely reconstructed. Within the memory of very young men, these vast prairies over which we have passed the last two days were gra/ind and lightning exit from the m(>at nnirket; l)ut they did not appear to sympaihi/e in his view of the case. Soon, on our journey westward fnim La .Junta, the Spanish Peaks, and Pike's Peak, and the greai lange of the Rocky Mountains, come in sight. Some idea of this innnense range can be attained by con- sidering that its area in the United States is very nearly eleven times that of Gr(>at Britain. We run alongside of it and in its f lot-hills all the way from Pueblo to Denvei'. TIk'Sc two cities appear to have remained about slationarv in population for the last two years. We ga/e on stiow-capped mountains, catch glimpses of Colorado Springs, t!ie Garden of the Gods and Monument Park: and at 1 : ■-'(• i*. m. lunch at the divide, now called I'almer Lake; elevation, 'i ,'i'-t] feet ; distance from Denver, ')'i miles. Fn M this elevateil point, the water flows in o])p have an hotel for visitors, summer villas, pavilion for shelter and for dancing, parks, deor; Monument creek, with its cascades; beauties in pine and sycamore, moss and shrubs and wild (lowers. It is a I FROM VITWAGO TO VraWUIA. 18 Sunday jiloasun! resort for Denver, and on that day specMal trains are run, wliicli are wi^Il patronized. The most strikinjf natural object we pass between the divide and Denver is Castle I'ock, tliirty-lhree miles fiom Denver. Ft is a pronii- neiit portion of the foot-hills of the Rocky Mountains, and has a most Monufnent Park. castle-like lo- read the "Thousand Nights and One Xight," I distrusted this card an;<)ii{| views; hut, as tlirre was no sun at the time, no rainbows could 1)0 seen. Al'terwiird \v(.' drove on tlie trail to Pike's Peak as far as till' Iron Ute Spiinu;, and tasted its licalirifr waters in the natinal state, and also as inanufactured into lemonade. Previously we had visited and tasted tli- the TIte, and Pike 5 Peak Tij,' carl)onate of man, — Old Probaliilitit's, ui nioif laniiliarly known to us all as "Old I'robs." It is twelve miles by loot and bridle path to till' summit, and during the summer parties are made up early everv niorninjr, who accomplish the trip there aiid back on horseback in oiu,' (lav. Hv lookins; hmy: and carefullv and traininij the ev»f to the work, we discern, as specks in the distance, horses and riders thread- ini; their way down the mountain. The Pike's Peak railway is ix'ing built to the top, which will increase the distance to thirty miles, but will make the trip one ol' ease and pleasure, and less of labor and latiiTue than it is now. This railway will nif)unt two thousand feet liiirhtT than the Lima and ( )i()va railroad in Peru. Its entire leiioth will be a successi(>n of complicated curves and grades, with no piece ot straight track nmre than three hundred feet in length. Thursday, .Jul}' 31st. We start early, with a pntgramme made out lor all day, and take a carriage drive of over thirty miles to the (rarden of the Gods, Glen E^'rie, Colorado Springs, and North and South Cheyeniu' Carii>ns. A capacious hamper jammed full of various supplies relieves us of all apprehensions on th(! j^core of commissariat until supper time, which is the hour at which we purpose to be back. We • MitiM' the Garden of the Gods by the south en- tiance, instead of bv the <>ate\vav, as on mv first visit, a few years ago. " Balanced Pock," close to the entrance, first at- tracts the eye. It is about fifty feet hijjh, Balancod Rock. thirty feet thick at its greatest brciidth, stands on a point of about three I'eet, and weighs numy tons. The sjarden is about two miles in leniitli and one in width, and grows onl\' rocks of wondrous form. It would take numy days to thoroughly explore it, and see it, as it deserves to be seen, in all its details. Such an exploration would be replete with ))leasure and constant surprises. We drive very slowly through it, stop])ing every Hi I ',»0 yOTEs OF A TltlP |i ill: n ,; I 'I now and a<;aiii to 1)1' iiioiint- Is of jrrn- , lidudcil i'!i(l, lion, italuMUtMl III CollVt'V FIIO.M ( '/lie AGO TO VtCToltlA. 21 crowning- gious size s far as we ceep look- oiulers. the great Tmitteil to speak of a (.■afioii in this way, it has soinctliiiig al)out it g»ti!i«!(l, iiioro (leiioato, iiuTt' Imnian, ami that can ho iiion* easily grasped, than thi? hirgtT canons. I saw it some years ago, hut couhl not see it to-day. All the ground abo :t the entrance has hfen prei'iiipted, and occiipii'd as private property. A gentle- iiiiin's residt'iici- and gnmnds bar tin- way to this natural wondt.'r, hide it from view, and inakf it a niysti'iy, — a suppressed, secluded, iiiij)rison('d woiiilor, instead of an open inarvi-l. It is an outrage to permit any one to niaki' private piopcrty of scenery lik(» this. As well prei'inpt Niagara Falls, or demand toll for a sight of ocean. There is a legend that a shrewd citi/fu prei-mptetl the top of Pike's Peak, and that much peisuasive power was ie(|iiir('d to convince him that the United States Government was a " higer man "' than he was. He was ultimately eomjielled practically to assent to the precedence of the claim of the government over that of any citizen. We were permitted lo drive about the beautiful grounds of Glen Eyrie, in part shut in hy the Rocky Mountains, and on another side by perpendicular natural walls of great altitude. High up in these II!! i! i I : .' ill !' ' Kill' I'M A< 22 NOTES OF A TRIP walls, 1 noticed the liii mountains, and at an altitude of (1,023 feet. It ir-: about fifteen years old, has a population of over 6,000, ••iiid is beautiful with trees and flowers and small parks. Through the streets, which are wi practically unlimited, and, toming, as it does, from lofty mountain heights, gives a pressure which makes fire engines superfluous. We drive through a broad street, with two rows of trees in the centre, and a row on each side, and which is intersected by several small parks. The drive to the Cheyenne canons was mainly over a road l)v a pleasant brook, and sheltered by trees. We drove nearly as far as the carriage drive extended in South Cheyenne Cafion, and then took lunch in a wood cabin, with the clear waters of the canon flowing on both sides of us. It was a hot and tiresome walk to the Seven Falls of the Cheyenne; l)ut the wonders and the beauties of the wav, and the culminating sight of the Seven Falls, made us glad that we had not missed a foot of the distance. In a succession of seven falls, the sweet mountain stream makes its descent from the mountain top to the bed of the cafion. At the foot of the lowest fall, the topmost ones are not in sight. I climbed to where 1 could see the whole series above and below; but this was not half way to the roj). I had enough of climl)ing, and rested and made a leisunMy descent, and lay on a boulder at the foot of the lowest fall, and in frfmt of it, listen- ing to its voice and enjoying its coolness, initii rejoined by the rest of the company. Afterward we drove about two miles up North Chevenne Cafion in wooded ways by a delightful stream, the bed of which is chiefly a series of little falls. The two eafioiis are a little les^s than a mile apart. In both, the mountains rise to a great height on either side, and huge and curious shapes of rock arrest attention. The North Canon was the finest drive, and was more beautiful with trees. On our ri'turn in South Canon, as we passed the hut at which li FROM CHICAGO TO VlCTOlilA. 23 the saine V natural "oet high, we ihive ■s of the ins, as far lies from It fifteen vith trees are wide, unlimited atini^ jind 'Muinir, as ch makes with two which is road i)y a [• as far as 1 then took flowiiii; on even Falls 3 way, and lat we had even falls, untain tup le topmost the whole np. I had scent, and )f it, listen- )y the rest luie Caudi) 1 is chielly han a mile on either tion. The with trees. It at which we had lunched, it was being' taken possession of fur the night by a party who were camping out. We saw more than one team, each with a party who had all the requisites for camping out. To sh'ep in this vagabond, Bohemian way in these wonderful canons, seemetl a new kind of pleasure. After a drive of nearly ten hours, we got back to our hotel at Mani- tou, ready for supper and bed. The air of Colorado creates an ap- petite, and weighs the eyelids down. Wt; drink in this tine air; we revel in it; we take in new life from it. Whatever the days may be, the nights are cool ; and the air we have breathed, enjoyed and exulted in, and the cool night, shut down our (eyelids, and com- pel refreshing sleej) ; and, wiien morning comes, we wake t( > bounding i m pulses, feel as if we must skip and bound and play, and ar(i r e a d y an d eager for another dav of vigorous exercise. For miles and miles we ride alon{„^side tln,'se snow-capped sublimi- ties which form the backbone of the COnti- Section of Cneyenne Kails. nent. Patiently they stand, and time chips away at them with a patience equal to their own. Change is on them as on all things. 'I'alk of everlasting hills: that is so much nonsense. Time smiles at that, as he persistently and imperceptibly keeps on demolishing- 1 1 I i!' I i 11^ I ; i Wl ! -;i ]\\ :l! 24 AOTES OF A TlilP tlicni. Aij-e, rain, wind and .snow, destructivo forces vliicli are only creative I'oiccs under another name, clii]) otf boulders, roll them to the plain, ^-rind them to fine dust, and scatter that dust broadcast. The process can be seen as one travels Imndreds of miles in and throuyh, over and along-side, this enormous mountain ran<>e. KorUl Cheyennp Canon. \N liiit inarv(>ls tlii'M' UKuuitains hold ! what treniench.us abysses ! what awe-inspirino- .-ilntudes ! what rayinj.- torrents ! what gleaming waters in p,,ol, rivulet, fall and lake ! Now this mountain land is beautiful with trees and flowers; now bleak and barren above the tiinh.M- line ;ind line of vegetation, and with rents ami crevices of unknown depths and dimensions, hlled with snow which never FROM rniCAGO TO VICTORIA. 1 are only them to iroadciist. los 111 and It'. IS ahvsscs I It fricaming :ain land is above the crevices ol' ■hich never appears to decrease in vohinie. What lessons may be read liere by the man who brinors to these scenes a receptive, responsive soul ! Heie the wisest may find more wisdom; the boldest, fear; the htv inland oceans, laru'er in area than European kingdoms ; those gnMt unsalted seas that bear on their broad bosoms the rich argosies of commerce, the priceless ])roducts *)f fertile and sovereign States; but to show that we have also lesser glories in lakes and lakelets of ineil'able beauty, of surpassing loveli- ness, which iummI not v(>il their beauties nor j)al(^ their boast before the most \aiinted of their rivals of other lands. Friday, August 1st. We leave Manitou at 8:4") a. m., I'or Salt Lake City, via Denver & lUo Grande IJailroad and L'olorado Springs t ; \ •i > ill ! Ill ' ^ 26 .vorA'.s O/-' ^ TRir and Pueblo, a trip of 6(i<> milos. From Colorado Si)rings to Salt I.ako City we have huffot sleopirio; cars, in vviiich lunches can he procured at any hour. Wo cross tlu" Arkansas olten. At one point there is a suhnicrired railway track. The Arkansas has fancies, and indulges them. It sud- denly changed its course and went hy rail, and nobody afterward cared to go the same way, or coidd have jTone it" he had so cared. Its waters flow over rails and sleepers where once trains ran. It is i n CO n - venient and ^-x- jiensive ; hut the river would have its own willful way. An observa- tion car is put on at Canon City, that we may sit outside and see all the wonders of the Grand Canon of the Arkan- pe ci al 1 y the Ihe Royal Gofge. Koyal Gorge. There is a bla/ing hot sun shining fiercely down upon us, and the wind, which is a little unruly, blows right on us smoke and cindeis from the engine, and dust from wherever it can find it, and it appears to lind plenty of it. We heroically sit it out, however, till we have passed in review t'lO glories and grandeurs of the Grand It i lii FROM CinUAGO TO VICTORIA. 87 m o Salt Lake procured at t there is a 1(1 indulges It sud- y cha lined course and It l)y rail, u o 1) (I d y iward cared ro the same or coidd 'e (Tone if he 1 so cared. waters flow ?r rails an(.l epers where ce trains ran. is i n c o n - nient and ^x- nsive ; hut B river would ve its nwij llful way. An observa- m car is put at Canon ty, that we ly sit outside d see ail the )nders of the 'and Canon the Arkan- s , an d es- sci al ly the )yal Gorge. I us, and the and cinders nd it appears iver, till we the Grand Canon, and have looked on its greatest sight of all, — the Koyal Gorge. Here the Arkansas and the railway are compressed to a breadth of only about thirty feet, with perpenilicular rocks on ench side, 3,(100 feet high. The railway for a short distance is suspendtMl over the x\rkansas on " an iron bridge built lengthwise with tlie river, and suspended from steel trusses mortised into the rock walls upon each side." At this point ftn one side there is a rent in the rock extending from top to bottom. From ."^alida, 147 miles from our starting point of this morning, the road runs in one direction to Fieadville, and in the other to Salt Lake City. At Manitou the altitude was (JjoTO feet ; at Colorado Springs, fiv(! miles from Manitou, <),(l2o feet ; at Pueblt), forty-five miles from Colorado Springs, 4,liG8 feet ; at Canon City, forty-one miles from Pueblo, 5,3-1:4 feet; at Salida, tifty-six miles from Canon City, 7,050 feet. From Salida w(^ go on ascending, and look up to altitudes to which we must go, aiul down upon depths from whieh we have come. We do not go on a level, but go up ; do not go straight forward, but run round and round. We look up, and see high above us, but leading in an opposite directicm to our ])resent course, the track by which we shall shortly go. We look down, and see far below, but in an opposite direction to our present course, the path by which we have come. We go many miles circuitously in order to make one mile of straisiht-forward advance. At one \\\\x.\\ point, the mountains near by frame a view far below, and which we have left far behind, of a most spacious and beautiful valley, lying in sunlight, and guarded by snow-capped mountains. Most of the way there are two engines. As we asceiul, the engines puff as if their breath were going out, and the cars strain and creak as if the labor of it was physical pain. We look up to amazing altitudes to which we are to ascend, as appears from the outline of the track, which distance reduces to the dimensions of a goat path ; and down, with wonderment, to the depth from which we have come, marked l)y the thin streak of the railway tiack far below. We get within a mile walk of the top of Mount Ouray, the alti- tude of which is 14,043 feet. In this clear and deceptive atmos- phere, it seems only a few minutes' walk to the top. Snow lies on it. Snow lies alongside of us at one place. From lofty points of vantage, we get views of sweet valleys lying in clear suidight, hemmed in by mountains with snow-clad summits ; far off, but seem- ingly close at haiul ; so near to vision, so far away in actual distance. There are mountains nearer and lower, timber clad ; others with trees i; (! 28 NOTES OF A TRTP ' 1 ! ■! ! • 1 1'; . \ 1 i ! 1 'I stripped of l)raiicli<'s and folia<>o, bare, and strewed on the jTround liki' stalks of wheat or corn, or like bare poles left stanilin<>-. These are till' remains of forest fires. Snow-sheds become common sijrlits. We pass tlu'ongh many of them before attaiiiin,7(jt) feet. From this divide the waters ilow in one direction to the Pacific Ocean, and in tlie other to the Gulf of Mexico. There are only ten initiates to take in the view. We an; above the timber line. Ve other side on similar lim-s. Flower dealers assail us ; l)ut we waste not a jirecious minute of the ten at our disposal, and brush aside all snmller things, and adhere steadily to sight-seeing. The ten minutes do not seem as long as ten seconds. We seem to have had just a glimpse of this wondcM-land when summoned to lesume our seats and our jourm'y and commence the descent. Cui'ves and altitudes affect merctnial, excitable people. Two lively ladies, who have been kei^ping up a constant exciteuKMit, and gener- ally bobbing around and making things lively, and having solid chuidis of fun, are overcome, and lie kicking and screaming in the car, wlien we leturn to it after our ten minutes' sight-seeing is over. These ladies were seriously affected, and were mad(> worse by a crowd of amateur nurses of both sexes, each of whom had separate opinions and diU'erent remedies, mostly absurd and hurtful. A doct<,)r was discovered at last, who aiiled ii\ the recovery of the worst case, and the other recovered without a (locator. (^)ui(>t people usu- ally escape these jiainful faints. We are alon hiiililinjfs l)Oiriii to appear. Tlie tiolds cverywlicn! ffisc evidence of thril't and industry. The Mormons and the Ciiinese hcem to have the capacity to yet th' to trade at the store owned by the former, and thereupon I e; .' i''i.'\) became popular: — " MolluT, may I no out to shop •> O j-es, my dnrlintr (lauii:lnc'r ; But be sure to uo to the great Co-op, And don't go near tiie Wallcer." I ascend to the top of the Walker House, and get a splendid view of the city. It has long overpassid the limits which its original i'lunders eviilently foresaw for it, it' I may infer so nnich from its !i?»'ii>g extended beyond the cemetery which lies higher up on the j'l ,'!.i,ta!ii slope. Much farther away still, and in the same direction, lie the United States fort and barracks. The city has kept strag- 1 '■r-!| 40 NOTES OF A TlilV \\ J nil i'Jrt'il FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 41 gling out toward the fort, and the two are nearer neiglibors now than when first they made what promised not to be a pleasant acquaint- ance. It is claimed that the city streets are twice as wide and the blocks twice as long as in other cities, a claim which any one who walks them will not feel disposed to contest. These streets are lined with shade trees, and the residence portion is made beautiful with trees, lawns and flowers, and clear, babbling brooks. There are two opera houses, one of Mormon origin and control ; the other owned by Mormon skeptics, who, as already explained, held the inadmissible and heterodox tenet that the church had no rigfht of control in temporal affairs, b>it only in spiritual ones. Mormons will not go to the heterodox opera house : gentiles will go to either. Con- sequently, lo insure the presence of both saints and sinners, a shrewd manager, having ducats in view, engages the Mormon opera house. "Mascc^te," by the same company that I had seen playing it in the splendid Tabor Ojiera House, in Denver, was being played here. Wishing to see a Mormon play-house, I accepted a courteous invitation, and was assigned a stage box from which I could have a good view of the house, a most substantial one, like all Mormon public works. [t is 80 by 174 feet, with a seating capacity of 1,700. Sunday, August 3d. I was urged to make an excursion to Salt Lake, and bathe in its waters, and told wonders about the invigorat- ing results of such a trip and bath ; but I preferred to go to the Tabernacle. This building stands in what is known as the Temple block, in which also stand the x\ssembly Hall and the unfinished Temple. It is elliptical, and roofed with a dome of the same form. The latter has been aptly described as resembling an upturned boat. The Tabernacle is 150 feet wide, ^50 feet long, and J)0 feet high. The organ was pealing forth solemn music as we entered. We took seats two or three rows from the front of the gallery, at the end facing the organ, orchestra and ministering saints at the other end. The organ is, I believe, the largest and finest on the continent save one; and the well-trained choir, two hundred in number, is said to be the best west of New York. The leader appeared to go about his duties in a business-like way, as if he were wielding his baton at a festival or a grand opera. There are twenty very large entrances, fourteen for the ground floor, and six for the gallery. The gallery goes all round, leaving only space at one end for the organ and orchestra. In fnjnt of the organ sits the choir, ladies on one side facing gentlemen on the other side. In 42 NOTES OF A TRIP l! the centre, where the auditorium ends on the ground floor, stands the sacrament table, a long table with marble top. Behind it there is a bench of the same length, with seats for about twenty officiating bishops. Behind this, and of the same length, rise three crimson- covered rows with crescent-shaped stand for Bible and hymn book in the centre of each row. These seats are for the highest dignitaries of the church, the president, councilors, presidents of seventies, bishops, etc. On each side of the first of these rows, reposes an iron lion, painted to resemble marble. Still farther away, on each side, repose duplicates of these. Behind the dignitaries, and higher up, is the choir, and farther back still, against the wall, the huge organ. Some of the occupants of the crimson-covered rows were dressed in black, others wore ordi- nary business suits of light colors. The seats for the audience, suffi- cient to accommodate 1"^\000, were plain wooden ones, with wooden backs not too high. A sketch of a bee-hive adorned the wall behind us. With this exception, the walls were bare. The roof had two skylights, and was festooned with evergreens, and with flowers made of paper. The congregation. In point of intelligence and appearance, seemed to be the average congregation usually to be met with in churches of any denomination, except that it was not so showily and gaudily dressed. Fans fluttered as they do in the hot season in all churches and theatres. ; The service was a '" meral one, in memory of " two deceased serv- ants of God, Bishop Leonard W. Hardy and President W. W. Taylor;"* the latter one of the presidents of seventies, and son of the President of the church, John Taylor. Bishop Hardy had died ill harness, full of years and honors, at the ripe age of seventy-eight years and seven months. He was one of two selected to go with President Wilford Woodruff, when, on the death of the Prophet Smith, and his brother Hyrum, he was appointed by the Council of the Apostles to preside over the church in England. President Will- iam Taylor was a young man of about thirty, who had made a repu- tation for himself as an active and able worker in the church, and a member of the municipal government. The Mayor and City Council of Salt Lake City attended the services in a body, and accompanied the remains of their respected co-laborer to their last resting place. The bodies had lain on view from 8 A. M. till 10 a. m., and when we entered at the latter hour> the last of the crowds were passing in front of the sacrament * Deserct Eveiiitir/ Nticn, Monday, August 4, 1884. FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 48 stands the there is a officiating crimson- mn book iignitaries seventies, I'eposes an on each md farther occupants wore ordi- ence, suffi- ith wooden Yall behind of had two 3wers made ippearance, net with in showily and season in all ceased serv- ant w. w. i, and son of [ly had died jventy-eight to go with ;he Prophet } Council of sident AVill- lade a repu- tiurch, and a ttended the ir respected lain on view latter hourj [J sacrament table, viewing the bodies, which lay there in caskets covered with flowers. The organ ceased, and at 10:10 a. ji., President George Q. Can- non, who conducted the services, gave out the hymn — " God moves in a mysterious way," which was sung by the choir. President Joseph E. Taylor prayed, and the choir sang — " Nearer, my God, to thee." Then followed eulogies by President Wilford Woodruil", Bishop Rob- ert T. Burton, President Jacob Gates, President A. M. Cannon, President Joseph F. Smith, and President George Q. Cannon. Then, in a quiet and subdued tone, the head of the church, President John Taylor, closed with a few sentences of consolation and care for the living. The choir sang — " In the .sweet by and by." The congregation stood up, and President H. S. Eldredge pronounced the benediction ; and the services, which had lasted over two hours, were ended. President George Q. Cannon announced the speakers, as I under- stood, without previous notice to them. As each was called, he stepped to the pulpit stand, in the centre of the row in which he sat, and spoke from thence. Each excused himself as being unprepared, and as not having expected to be called upon, and said that he would only make a few remarks; and each ended with "for Jesus' sake Amen," — the last words uttered swiftly as the speaker retired to his seat, and not unlike a tired child ending its prayer. The impromptu speaking lacked fire, force, enthusiasm and lit- erary finish. No burst of eloquence enlivened the dead level of the talk. There was not even volubility at all times; but there was sameness and slowness, and, with nearly all, hesitations and long, painful pauses, as if the speaker might stick unexpectedly at ajiy moment. The speeches were not grammatical, nor reasoned, nor pathetic: they were the speeches of plain men speaking, in {)lain, simple words, to plain men. Perhaps there was restraint in them. They were practical, and had a personal interest which held attention. They dwelt on the gain to the departed, which ought to be matter of rejoicing to tlie bereaved, rather than a cause for selfish grief. The departed had escaped from the evils of this life, and were beyond the persecutions of the wicked and the power of death, and Satan, 44 NOTES OF A TRIP MM 11 1 1 and sin, and were safe in a land brighter than day. The speaking was a kind of jubilation on these topics, which were insisted upon, and were undoubtedly believed, and, to a reasonable extent, exempli- fied. It was enforced, too, that death was sweet to the believer, and bitter to the unbeliever; death was held to have no power over the believer. There was very little in the services to distinguish them from those of any orthodox Christian church, and a slightly inattentive listener of such a church might have failed to discover that he had wandered from his own fold. 1 regret that I did not hear President Taylor at greater length. He is said to be an able speaker, which I can readily believe. President George Q. Cannon, too, has a reputa- tion which makes it unfair to judge him by one speech delivered under limited conditions. The same reasons should qualify criticism on all these speeches. Mormonism, I am advised, has able speakers and writers. Personally, I am unable to testify as to the speaking; but as to the writing, at least in the daily press, it is undeniable that the Deseret Evening N'eirs, the organ of the church, is edited with consummate ability. At tlie conclusion of the funeral services, the congregation were directed to keep in their seats till the funeral procession had filed out ; and the doors vrere shut to enforce this order. When the vast audience, numbering a])out 7,000, was finally allowed to depart, the perfect arrangements for egress enabled the great building to be emptied with the utmost ease and rapidity, and without crowding and hustling. Those on the ground floor, for the most part, moved out in a line as they had sat. The acoustic properties are perfect. During the services, people walked out and in and about, babies wailed in all directions, restless little ones roamed about at their own sweet will, no one making them afraid, an uneas}' young man behind me kept clawing and kicking at the bench upon which I was seated ; and yet, though almost the entire length of the house from the speakers, I heard tlieiu fairly well, scarcely losing a word. On the ground floor a lady fainted, and was carried out at a side door, without the episode stopping the speaker, or preventing the audience from hearing him. It was unbearably hot outside ; but the ventilation was good, the doors were open, and, although little air was stirring, it was utilized, and the church was cool. Huge barrels of ice water stood on the ground floor on each side of the church, at the end near the official stands ; and little folks and big folks handed it round when needed, FROM CIIICAOO TO VICTORIA. 45 or thirsty saints and sinners walked up and refreshed themseives " when so dispoged." Nowhere have I seen such common sense in building a church, or in conducting a service. For sjiaciousness, coolness, comfort, ease in hearing, and convenience of exit in case of alarm, it surpasses all public buildings I have seen or of which I have heard. Happy little Mormons were not made to sit still when their little souls were weary for change. They walked about and changed their seats at will. The sweet humanity to children thus exhibited was new to me in churches. I thought of the weary hours of church service in which J had to sit rigid and bolt upright in my childhood days, and regretted that this touch of Mormon humanity had not then been infused into Christian orthodoxy. The Tabernacle is strongly built to last, like the Temple, but is not as fine nor as imposing as the Temple, which is built of gruiiite, as if to resist an attack, and stand defiantly forever in spite of man and time and the elements. It is 117 feet wide, 180 feet long, and 200 feet high, with walls sixteen feet thick at its base, and nine feet nine inches thick above the surface. Moons and stars are carved on its exterior, and there is still similar work to be done. It is far from completion. It is not to be used as a place of worship, but is to take the place of the present Endowment House, in which the secret services of the church are held, — services which, so far as we have any light respecting them, appear to resemble the methods and ceremonies of the leading secret societies, with variations of detail and of ritual. The Temple is built as, of old, temples were builded to God, — no marble front for show, and the less cons{)icuous parts of the building of poorer material and meaner detail, as if God could be swindled with a front view. The Mormon Temple is good all through and everywhere ; there is no slop work ; the same material and the same careful finish and thorough workmanship exist uniformly in every part : it is just as good in the rear as in the front, in some out-of-the- way corner as in any part most prominent and most exposed to public view. It is a piece of genuine, honest work ; it is real, and there is no pretense about it. The builders evidently believed in God, and that he is not a God of shams and pretense, which but few builders of churches in modern days appear to do. Nearly all these modern builders palm off on heaven fine fronts, and mean details elsewhere, as if heaven could be taken in with appearances and mere outside looks. The Assemblv Hall, a granite building of , !; H 'f\' 40 :NOrES OF A TRIP fine proportions, and the smallest of the three buildings in the Temple block, is for religious and other meetings, the same as those held in the Tabernacle. We drove all over the city, i)ast ])laces already named, the tithinjr houses, through the Eagle Gate entrance to Brigham Vouiig's property, to heights from whence fine views of the city could be obtained, through most attractive residence streets, past comfortable-looking and elegant homes of Mormons. Water flows plenteously in every street ; yet dust covers everybody and every- thing. At one beautiful Mormon home we stopped. The owner and his wife were in the front. Our driver called out to him that I wished to see his hawthorn trees, which stood at different points in his grounds, and he came forward and courteously invited me in. I apologized for intruding upon him, and explained that I was an Englishman resident in this country the largest half of my life, and wished to show my daughter, who accompanied me, the hawthorn of the hedges of her father's native land. " I am English, too," he said. " What part of England are you from?" 1 answered : " Northumberland; but 1 have not seen it for twenty- seven years." He added : " I am from Yorkshire, and my wife is from London." The Hawthorn was not the wild Hawthorn of the " loanins " of my native county, but that with the double (lower. He had imported it from England. It served me for a text on which to expatiate to the " Young America " by my side on the glory and the freshness of English May, and I did not omit to glance incidentally at primrose dells, just to show that after all there are some things in the mother country. He made me test his lawn, so soft, so velvety, it seemed almost a sin to use it. I never trod on lawn so perfect, so mossy soft and yielding and elastic. He said that he played bowls on it. " You can not get the deep green of England," I said, " although you come very near it." . He assented regretfull}'. The place was loveliness itself, with trailing vines, creepers, iiowers, peerless lawn and beautiful trees. Two lines of creepers, forming two sides of a triangle, stretched from the porch to the street, Chinese pattern wise, but many times lovelier in colors than anything made by hand or machinery. His wife smiled when I said: " It is so beautiful, it must be a temptation to sin, and passers-by P I FliOM CHICAGO TO VICTOlilA. 47 must break the commaiidnieiit which saith ' Thou shalt not covet.'" It was an incomparably lovely little spot. He showed me enormous strawbt'rries, such as I had never seen before. Many if not all of these Mormons were poor in their native land. They are rich here, or comfortably well off beyond any day dream they could reasonably have dreamed in their early, ante-Mormon days. We drove past the cemetery, and on to Camp Douglas, past the residence of the commandant, past semicircular rows of ten double houses, making twenty residences of officers, with lawn in front. The soldiers' ([uarters were solid and comfortable, the finest camp I have seen for comfort and for commanding view ; finer than Fort Snelling, I think. It has the mountains for a background, and looks over the city, the lake and the whole valley. Uncle Sam seems to have cared for these troops, and especially for their oflicers. Beyond this camp, and easily in sight, lies the caiion by which the Mormons entered Utah. We did not wait to hear the band which i)lay3 at 8; 30 p. m., but drove back to the city, meeting on our way carriages going fast to the camp to be in time for the Sunday band concert. The moon was obscured behind clouds, the curtains of night were drawn down very fast, the mountains became dim away in the distance, and the valley disappeared. A view from these heights, of the valley bathed in moonlight, which we had promised ourselves, was denied us. On July Ji4th, 1847, the pioneer xMormons, 143 in number, entered Salt Lake valley. The population now exceeds 150,000, of whom over 135,000 are Mormons. Over 200,000 acres of land are in culti- vation, and $300,000 per annum are expended in irrigation. Salt Lake City has a population of al)out 30,000, and covers nine square miles. It is 4,2G1 feet above sea level. Monday, August 4th. I had interviews with Bishop John Sharp, President George Q. Cannon and President John Taylor. Bishop John Sharp is Vice-President and General Superintendent of the Utah Central Railway, and a Director of the Union Pacific Railway. I found him at the general offices of the Utah Central Railway. The busy and intelligent officials of these offices are all Mormons. T' . Bishop is a " canny Scot," with plenty of shrewdness, ability and business capacity; affable, accessible and pleasant to meet, as all these church dignitaries appear to be. He told a good story with quiet and striking eflect. From Bishop Sharp we went to the Lion House, to see President John Taylor. While waiting till President Taylor was disengaged,— if he can ever be said to be disengaged ; as, from what we saw, the outer 48 NOTES OF A Tint' I! I* / office }inil his reception-room si-ein to be pretty full of visitors all the time, — President Georye Q. Cannon came out, and engaged us in conversation. He talked pleasingly, and, in a (juiet, gentlemanly, unobtrusive way. almost without appearing to do it, imparted a fund of information about interesting points in Mormon history. As the advance body of Mormons came through the cailon into Utah, Brigham Young, suffering from mountain fever, lay on a bed which had been improvised for him in a carriage. He directed the driver to turn ♦^he carriage across tiie road to enable him to see the valley, which he at once aiuiounced to be their destination. He located the city at once, and, the moment he could rise from his bed, planned the whole city, and determined the site of Tabernacle, Tem- ple, Endowment House, Tithing House, etc. The Tabernacle was built on his plan, and the Temple is being built on his plai!. When what he did, and the success of his doings, and the rapidity with which he thought and planned and executed his plans are considered, it is easy to '^ee how his followers could believe in his being inspired. He appearf^. a leader abler than Moses, and having greater difficulties with which to contend. Moses got away from Pharoah and the Egyptians, superstitious and easily befogged, and not very wide- awake ; but Brigham Young got away from and " got away with " this great Yankee people, "the smartest nation in all creation." He plunged into what was then practically the unexplored desert, and dared the dangeis of desert, mountains and hostile Indians, — a hos- tile nation behind him, hostile savages and unknown dangers and privations before and on all sides of him, his destination undetermined, in an unknown, unexplored land. The story was told of Fremont on his trip across the continent which gave him the title of Pathfinder, mistaking Salt Lake and Utah Lake for one sheet of water, and reporting the lake as being salty at one end, and fresh at the other. Speaking of the freedom permitted in church to children, Presi- dent George Q. Cannon said : " We like children, we are very easy with them. Brigham Young did not believe, with Solomon, in birch- ing children, and his example and influence led to great freedom being permitted to them." President George Q. Cannon and President Joseph F. Smith, the latter a nephew of the prophet Joseph Smith, are respectively first and second councilors of "John Taylor, President of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints in All the World." President George Q. Cannon was formerly delegate from Utah in the United States Congress, and would have been delegate still if Mormon votes FltoM CIHCAdO TO VICTORIA. 4y had counted ; but the Mormons hjive been disfranchised in this country, as Mr. Bradhiiior to floor, without your having to undergo the labor of climbing stairs. It was night before we could find time to viail tlie Chinese quarter. There are 40,000 Chinese in San Francisco, most of whom are packed in one quarter. The sidewalks were crowded, and the interiors were litendly packed. This quarter of the city is entirely given up to "the heathen," and we might just as well be in the Oeh^stial Empire as here. In this (|uarrer we saw a ' uilding which was once the leading S4 NOTES OF A TRIP hotel in San Francisco. It is so no more. No hotel depending upon the patronage of the general public can exist in the Chinese quarter. The general public would not locate there even tempo- rarily. Nothing tliat esteems itself white and good will dwell in this Nazareth. Chinese merchants can pack more merchandise and crowd more assistants in a given space than any white man can do. We explored one store, and were courteously received. Every available niche was filled up with merchandise, or had " a pagan " jammed in it, busy as a bee over books or correspondence. We visited a jos& house, and were just becoming interested in the explanations and the marvels of engraving and carving which adorned it, when one of our party was overcome with the odor of the incense, and we beat an unceremonious retreat. Our next viBit was to a tea-garden. The charge for a cup of tea in a first-class tea-garden is just a trifle exorbitant ; but then, we were notified, the moment we ordered tea, what the charge would be. This is a refinement of fair play unusual outside of paganism. We quickly discovered that we had ne\3r tasted tea before. It is a celestial drink as made by "the heathen Chinee," and a much finer article of tea than is furnished to barbarians through the usual channels of trade. The Mongolian makes it in a way of his own, and the art of making tea still continues to be a monopoly of his. We (lid not see the worst of this Chinese quarter. That. I am told, is indescribable. Opium dens abound, and smells are too pronounced for the most callous nostrils. If plague should come, the presence of this unsavory, closely packed crowd, would be a menace to public health. I was afterward taken through streets of low resort which m guide informed me were more dangerous than any in the Chinese quarter. Tiiese were occupied by French outcasts. " Frisco," as the people of the far West delight to call the gi'eat city of the Pacific coast, is a city set upon several hills and in nu- merous valleys. It is well provided with large and elegant hotels, and beautiful and roomy street cars run everywhere. The street car lines are run by underground cable, the most practicable method wliere such heisi'hts have to be ascended. I have not seen as a'ood street cars in any other city. Flowers grow like weeds in this "glorious climate.'*' Friday, August 8th. We left Frisco at 3:30 P. M., for Monterey, 135 miles distant. We pass Belmont and Menlo Park, the lovely Santa Clara valley, and its metropolis, San Jose, and fields in which the industrious "Chinee" is gathering up all the fat of the land. FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 55 II 66 NOTES OF A TRIP ' At 7:"25 I', M., we alight at a pretty little station in a land of flowers. The Hotel Del Monte is close at hand, " in a grove of 12G acres of oak, pine, spruce and cypress trees, and within a quarter of a mile of the beach." In the large hall of this great hotel, i)i a fireplace of generous dimensions, a log fire was blazing. The daintiest rooms daintily furnished look out on flower gardens which realize dreams of fairy land. Seven thousand acres of land are held in connection with this hotel, through which are twenty-tive miles of carriage drives. We were told that we ought to see this and all California in winter, when flowers and everything else are liner than in summer. It is a paradise of flowers which bloom all the year round. Saturda}-, August 9th, we took a drive of many miles, through the lovely grounds of the Hotel del Monte, and outside of them to the seashore, past a large bathing house, and through Monterey and Pacific Grove, a village of tents and seaside residences, a famous bathing resort " open all the year round," to Cypress Point. Surely and not very slowly goes on the progress of reclaiming the sandy wastes on the seaside of Hotel del Monte, and turning their barren- ness into trees and Howers. At Monterey we see the hotel at which Fremont took up his quarters after his trip across the continent, in 184G, which won for him the title of " the Pathfinder," and was the first step in fame which led to his being afterward nominated as the Republican can- didate for president. With thought of Fremont comes his wife, the fa- mous daughter of a famous father. Senator Benton, whose statue stands in La Fayette Park, St. Louis, who was one of the earliest, if not the earliest, advocates of a railroad across the continent to the Pacific. It was he who, in reference to this track across the continent, and pointing westward, said, " There is the East : there is India." There is — WHALING AT MONTEREY. Monttrey ArriuK, AiKjuafi. Tlic wlmk'rs shot a large female wliale during the week ; but she sunk in about forty-five fatiioms, and tliey will have to wait for lier to come to the sur- face, whicli will take ahout three days. Siie is accompanied by her calf, which tliey e.\iiect to capture. Soon after sliooting this one, they espied the male, and, giving chase, soon sent a bomb into liis body. They were more successful in this instance; for tlic monster made for the bay, and towed tlie boats a con- siderable distance toward tlie phiee before he died. This one was more con- siderate than his mate; for he floated when life was extinct. He is a monster, measuring over eiglitj' feet in lengtli. and is linown to the whalers as the " sulpliur bottom." A large number of people from Monterey and Pacific 1 FliOif CniCAOO TO VICTORIA. 67 rs, of lie ice Grove visited the whalery Thursday, aud sat on the beach watching the men remove the l)iul)ber. They expect to get seventy or eighty barrels from him. Tliis is one of the largest whales ever caught in this section. In Monterey we saw also the old Custom House, with its ancient flag-staflF, on which the flag- of the United States was first floated in California when the latter was ceded to the Union. We saw, too, the old fort and barracks, and the now somewhat wrecked looking building in which the collective wisdom of California once sat, for Monterey was once the capital of this State. In 1849, when Bayard Taylor was here, it looked to him at first as "a deserted town." It has not quite lost that look yet. Then buildings " rented for §1,200 monthly," and rooms for $200 monthly, and " a lot 75 feet by 25 feet, with a small frame store upon it, was sold for 85,000. A one-story house, with a lot about 50 by 75 feet, in the outskirts of the town, was held at $6,000. This was about the average rate of property." Monterey has not fulfilled t^ie hopes of its earK- days, when it was assumed to have advantages which San Francisco had not, and was expected, in some respects, to become a rival of San Francisco. It was to be one of the great cities, if not t/ie great city, of the Pacific coast. It is now a fishing village and a pleasure resort, only that, and nothing more ; but it has the loveliest site in the world, and its climatic advantages are beyond question. By the roadside, close to a point at which we crossed a small stream, there was a wooden cross inscribed "July 3, 1770." We are told that it marks the spot where the first service of the church was performed by the first Jesuit missionary. At Cypress Point, we take in a long sweep of Pacific shore. We look from the rock}' height on the waters of the Pacific dashing about the rocks, and sprinkling Pelican Rock with its spray. Flocks of pelicans cover the rocks, and sail above the waters from rock to rock. Sea-lions popped up their heads, and made their presence known audibly. One looked inquir- ingly, and I think had it in his mind to ask us of his relatives which we had left behind us in Lincoln Park, Chicago, not far from our doorstep. It is from this coast the sea-lions are recruited for this Chicago park. Our drive lay through pine forests and cypress groves of intense, pleasing and healthful odors. The high winds have fiattened these cypresses, and bent and twisted and battered branches and leaves into one compact mass of fantastic forms. The shade is thick and perfect. California lilac and wild flowers met the eye every- pit; i 68 NOTES OF A TRIP 8 '^ii .1 1; i: Ifc FEO.V OIIICAOO TO VICTORIA. 59 where. Spanish moss lightly veiled trees. We had pointed out to us a creeping plant known as "Poison Oak," and were told fearful tales thereof. To some persons, to touch it is to absorb its poison. Very sensitive persons absorb the poison by merely passing near the plant. Our driver was skeptical as to this. He held that the wind must blow something of it against any passer-by in any case in which the latter caught the poisonous infection. " The fastest train on the Pacific coast" took us into San Francisco in time for a late dinner. Sunday, August 10th. We went to the Cliff House, to look from its veranda on the rocky shores of the Pacific far below, and to see one of the great sights of San Francisco, — the crowds of sea-lions disporting in the water, and barking at nothing in particular. The waters were alive with them, and the rocks which were not preempted by sea-gulls were covered with them. They look their prettiest in the water, and their movements are swift and not ungraceful. They climb upon the rocks in the clumsiest way, and waddle down them and roll off them clumsily and ludicrously. When they lie on the rocks, as they do until they dry, they look to the eye as so many brown skins lying drying in a rather eccentric tannery.* We diverged to a fine, large park, with drives and romantic pathways, and an endless array of flowers and bedding plants, and shrubbery and trees, and wild woods and greensward of the gretMiest, kept so by unwearied sprinkling. Frisco empties out its thousands on Sundays to Oakland, Alameda, Cliff House, etc. We croshed the bay by ferry to Oakland to visit friends. We went a few miles by rail, and then had a carriage drive of many miles through all that pleasant suburb and the fair land that lies all around it. Outside of Oakland's beautiful streets and splendid residences inclosed in lovely grounds, we were impressed with the fruit farms and the wealth and profusion of flowers. Eucalyptus trees of Australia, beautiful and * The following is from a Sim Fnuicisco (lispatcli of August Mtli, in the Chicago TrVmne of August IGtli, 1885 : "The (luestion of the destruction of food lish in tlie harbor 1)}' sea-lions lias been discussed very often in connection with the diminution of the supply. An etiort is now being made to secure all the evidence obtainable on this point. Fish (Commissioner Kcdding has appointed a commission to take the testimony of experts. Should the report sustain the position of the fishermen, it is probable that the law forliidcling the killing of sea-lions will be repealed. If this is done the Seal Rocks of the Cliff House, near the Golden Gate, one of the most famous resorts on the Pacific coast, where hundreds of seals and sea-lions daily bask in the sun, will soon be deprived of the only attractions for tourists." i i PI 11 60 NOTES OF A TRIP .1 I tall and straight, abound. They are said to preclude malaria, and are cultivated as a protection to luialth. But nothing is sale from slander and detraction, not even this delight of the eye and defense against malaria, and I read in a newspaper : — THE FALL OF AN IDOL. The eucalyptus tree lias liithorto been in favor for its anti-malarial prop- erties, which are especially familiar in Aiistralia, where it is one of the loftiest of timlK-r trees. It has, liowever, hUely lost favor in the jirovince of San Pedro, Brazil, from the belief that it stimulates the generation of a jioisonous dragon liy, v.-hifh attacks all livinu' creatures, to -which its stinuj is fatal in a few iniiuUcs. Tiie destruction of all eucalyptus trues has therefore been ordered in San Pedro. San Pedro may have a demoralizing atmosphere, and evil com- munications may have there corrupted the good manners of the eucalyptus tree ; but, in the virtuous soil and " glorious climate of California," it retains its pristine qualities and the good opinion of the citizens, adorns the landscape, and remains a thing of beauty. Redwood is largely used in California for building. Of this species of " Manmioth California Trees," the Santa Clara, Cal., Jiepublicau says : A ledwood tree cut in this county furnished all the timber for the Ba])tist Church in Santa Rosa, one of the largest church edifices in the county. The inlerior of the building is finished in wood, there being no plastered walls. Sixty thousand shingles were made from the tree after enough was taken for the church. Another redwood tree, cut near ]\Iur]ihy's null, in this count}', about ten years ago, furnished shingles that retjuired the constant labor of two industrious men for two years before the tree was used up. It was incessantly dinned in our ears, that, to see California aright, we ought to see it in winter. Then there would be no fogs, the mountains would be green, and everything fresher and fairer. Even the flowers would be lovelier, and there would be other and finer varieties of them. At Monterey it was said, Come in winter if you wish to see Monterey when it is loveliest, and the whole land at its best. What a land, with an equable atmo.sphere and flowers all the year round. As we first approached Frisco by rail, running alongside the inland waters of the Pacific Ocean, we had noticed grain in sacks piled in the open air, without any protection. At the extreme ends of long wliarves running far out into the water, it was similarly piled. At that time of the year, there was no danger from rain, and none from winds coming to ruffle the vasty deep. It was a novelty to be in a land of such absolute certainty as to visitations of wind and rain. FROM ClIIVAGO TO VIUTOllIA. 61 Monday, August lltli. At 10 a.m., we take nassa.re on the gueen ol the Pacific, one of a hno of steamers runnini;- between Frisco and Tacoma, at the head of Pujret's Sound, via Victoria, Vancouver's Island, British Columbia. Our objective point was Portland, Orepron, and our original plan was to j^o direct by steamer running via Columbia river ; but Ave were told that it was rough crossing the bar at tlie mouth of the Columbia, and that the- loute via Victoria would take but a day longer, that the steamers were finer, that we would have more of the Pacific Ocean, and sights of greater interest, and we were persuaded. We were told of the fine view of Frisco which wo would have while sailing over the bay, and out of the Golden Gate into the great ocean beyond; but one of Frisco's solid fogs came down, and covered all the land, and bay, and sea, and our view was, conscfjuently, an extremely limited one. We see the defenses being erected at the narrow passag(! known as the Golden Gate. The shores are soon hid by log, and remain hid until 10 a. m., next day, Tuesday, August 13th. The fog blocks our view, and restricts it to a few feet of water. At last it clears rapidly, like a veil lifted, and miles of sea sparkling in sunlight are revealeil. The sun on tiie water is most dazzling. The shore comes out into sight. At starting, it was rockv; now it seems to be sand-hills, with higher hills behiiul. Birds of strong wing, pelicans and sea-gulls are following us. Numerous whales come in sisjht: but we nii^s them. The first night we were advised to lie with our state-room door open. At half past 10, electric lights in state-rooms are extinguished. The watchman goes his steady rounds all night. Our state-room faces out to sea, and it is but one step from it to the side of the steamer. We lie with the Pacific Ocean at our sleeping-room door, and look out on it and it fogs, and listen to its dashings, which have a never-failing charm for me. Of the sound of ocean, like love for the beloved, you can not define the charm; but all the more exqui- sitely you feel it. The Pacific Ocean is not always as pacific as its name might imply. We listened to terrible stories about its wiath from old voyagers who had made trips to and from China; and our experience was not all serene. Monday we had wind and fog; Tues- day morning, fog again, till suddenly it lifted, and the sun shone over miles of sparkling water. Then the ocean became as smooth as a village pond. Tuesday night Ave had wind and rain. Wednesday morning it Avas squally, but there Avas no sea to talk about. Not many sail Avere seen. Monday and Tuesday we saw none; i NOTES OF A TRIP I; 'I ; I ; Wednesday we saw a steamer and two sailing vessels. We kept on the lookout for whales, and on Wednesday, about 6 r. M., were rewarded by seeing thetn in an}- number, spouting and plunging in all directions, on all sides of us, near and far. Where sea and sky met, we saw a column of water spouting up to the heavens above, and immediately the huge figure of a whale was outlined on the horizon. Much attention was paid to the comfort of passengers, more than I had ever experienced before. The captain came round daily about II A. >i. to inspect and inquire if all was right, watchmen inspected every night after the electric light was extinguished, and waiter and stewardess were round between and 7 a. m., with tea or coffee and toast, and to find out if we were going to breakfast. They came round after everv meal to find out if we had been at it, and if we wished for anything. Early Thursday morning, August 14tii, we are in Victoria harbor, having accomplished our short sea voyage of about seven hundred and fifty miles. A. had telegraphed us before we left Frisco that he would come on from Portland, and meet us here. I was speedily on the dock, notwithstanding a mocking intimation that I need not expect him at that hour, and I surely could not expect that he would sit up all night waiting our arrival. Teamsters and cabbies in crowds assailed me ; but I heeded not their cry, and kept steadily threading my way past them. Soon an open carriage came dashing swiftly down the steep road to the dock. It clearly had a mission, and 1 was sure that it was to me. I discerned a familiar figure, and soon a well-known voice said, " I am glad you have come." Our steamer was to lie there until noon, and then go on its way to Tacoina; but A. decided that I had business to which to attend, people and sights to see, and must remain all day in Victoria, and go to bed at night in the steamer Olympian, of the Oregon Railway & Steam Navigation Company, which would leave early next morning for Tacoma, thus enabling me to make the whole trip from Victoria in dajdight. Vancouver's Island seemed to me the same as California, except in bustle and rush. Victoria seemed a city in Lotos Land. Nobody who was anybody got up early in the morning, and nobody was in a hurry. Even the newspapers appeared to be published for the name of the thing, and not for any news which they contained. They were as absolutely devoid of news, foreign or domestic, as perhaps it is permitted to a newspaper to be. There was nothing sensaiional FROM CHICAGO TO VICrORM. 08 about them except their price, which was ten cents a paper. That Victoria can digest its daily press and survive the operation speaks volumes for the healthiness of its climate. The deadness and dull- ness of the papers transcend description and baflle conception. Vancouver is mountainous and beautiful, yr'ith rocky and wooded shores. We took a long inland, woodland, rural drive, Our drive included the Navy Yard, in which were English vessels of war, and took us past gardens and farms, with flowers and fruit, which seemed California over again. The (Miinese excel in field culture here, as they do everywhere. We drove through the grounds, and past the residence of the Lieutenant Governor. In the grounds a convict gang were working on the carriage drive. Splendor and squalor, rank and crime, come into clos*^ contrast in all lands. We stopped at the Driard House, an unrivaled hotel. T do not think that it has its superior in table anywhere. Victoria is the capital of British Columbia, which is one of the provinces of the Dominion of Canada. Like the province of Ontario, it has only one House of Parliament, and seems, like Ontario, to get along with one house just as well, and a great deal cheaper, if not a great deal better, than provinces and states that can not exist without a House of Representatives and a Senate. Why the people should eli'Ct u House of Commons and a Senate to check, and hold in rein, and delay, and embarrass, the House of Commons, is one of those mysteries which can only be solved by referring it to the wis- dom of our ancestors. The government buildings, six in number, are built of brick, are ornamental, pretty, and rather toyish in appearance. In the House of Representatives, which was not in session, there were twenty-five seats, one seat in excess of the number of members. On the edge of the government grounds, close to the highway, stands a granite shaft on a granite base, with this inscription : — Ekecteo liv THE Peoi'LE ok BlUTISH COLUMIMA TO TBE MEMORY OK Sm James Douglas, K. C. R., GOVERNOK AND Commander in Chiek FUOM 1851 TO 1864. 64 NOTES OF A TRIP t| What is fame? Outside of British Columbia, who has heard of this famous man in whose honor this stately column lifts its lofty head ? Victoria h!.s a fine location, has 8,000 inhabitants, and, when Par- liament is in session, must be a trifle livelier than when I walked its st"eets. On one street corner there was a sign with a famous name : — General Assortment op Fancy Goods. MRS. SHAKESPEARE. Berlin AND ZEl'HYn Wools. lis The next day I saw, in New Tacoma, a reminder of Dickens in the name of the " Welier House;" and later, in Portland, 1 had a reminder of Thackeray in the " Esmond House," at which I put up. I am sorry to say, that since then, this, the finest hotel in Portland, has been totally destroyed by tire. The Canadian government had a commissioner in Victoria hearing evidence on the Chinese ([uestion. There are 18,000 Chinese in British Columbia, and 3,000 of these in Victoria. The commissioner elicited the fact that the low Chinese are very dirty and very bad, just as dirt^ and bad as low white people. The real crime of " the heathen " is not his vice and his dirt, in which he does not excel white outcasts, but that he works for less money, and can live upon less, than a white man. The real question to be determined is: Shall he, by his cheap labor, drive the white laborer to the wall? That is not the way the politicians state it, and that is not the cry raised by those who yell the loudest that the Chinese must go ; but it is tlie exact position. It is not a question of vice, or disease, or opium habits. It is a question of whether the cheap Mongolian shall replace the dear Cau- casian,. It is a question of race, and survival of the fittest and best, and must be met and dealt with in that way some day This Ciii- nese question is a burning one on the Pacific coast; but hitiierto there seems to have been some hesitancy in dealing with it plainly and bluntly. Everywhere that the Chinaman is met, he confirms what Bayard Taylor wrote of him over thirty years ago, " He has the one virtue of industry, and his cheap habits of life enable hnn to get a profit out of bars deserted by the white miners, and soil scorned by the white farmers." People engaged in the ordinary avocations of life go everywhere nowadays. Traveling is no longer the exclusive privilege of the rich or adventurous, or those having ample leisure. It is undertaken FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 65 for pleasure, for ini'orinatioii, for business ; by the busy, the over- worked, the most inadventurous. An excursion to Alaska had passed a few days before my advent in Victoria. It left Portland. Oregon, about the first of August ; and it was calculated that the trip from Portland to Alaska and return, giving sufficient time for sight-seeing, would take but twenty-one days. The fare was only $95. About one hundred people took advantage of this excursion, seventy- five of whom were schoo! teachers spending their vacation. They had been in attendance at the National Convention of Teachers held in Madison, Wisconsin. After the convention adjourned, the teachers scattered in all directions on pleasure trips before returning to their homes. I had looked upon Alaska as being almost inaccessible, and waked up to find it an ordinary pleasure resort, to which you can buy cheap roiind-trip tickets, just as you can buy them to any other pleasure resort. This is one result of the building of the Northern Pacific Railroad, and its being officered and operated by wide-awake citizens, who omit no chance to open new avenues of travel and develop new sources of traffic. Excursions to the Yellowstone National Park and to Alaska are of their invention. Some of these teachers, Alaska excursionists, on their return trip overtook me at the Dalles, Oregon, and I found out from them that our received ideas about Alaska stand in need of considerable revision. They were so charmed with their trip that they laid plans at once for another one in 1885. Just before 1 left home I had a letter from .rerusalem, insisting that T must go there ; and I was told by another friend to consider myself under contract to visit the Yellowstone region within a reasonable period. On my way west, I received a telegram reminding me that I had agreed whenever called upon to make a trip to Mexico. If that Alaska excursion had not gone, I should have been strongly tempted to join it. When we first set out from Chicago, we had about determined not to go west of Colorado, — at any rate not to go beyond Salt Lake ; but, by taking advice and yielding to persuasion, we found ourselves at last in Victoria, the farthest point at which we touched. Friday, Au^j-ust loth. Last night we occupied state-rooms on the steamer " Olympian," and, before going to bed, I had a moon- light view of the bay in which our steamer lay. I was up between 4 and .") • but, before I could get washed and dressed, the st«-ainer got under way, and so rapidly that we were out of the harbor before ilJ 66 NOTES OF A TRIP i^ I could p-.^t on deck. In about two hours we had steamed across the straits, wliich were calm and smooth as a pond, the beautifully wood(^d shores of Vancouver were receding from view, and we were in Pujret's Sound, " the Mediterranean of tlie Northwest." The snowy head of lofty Mount Baker was just visible through a rift in fleecy clouds. Our first stop was at Port Townsend, "Washington Territory, a fine location, with business houses and hotels on the shore close to the water, and 'residences on the highlands, which rise steep and abrupt from the narrow strip of land at tlieir feet between them and this inland sea. From the mouth to the head of the sound at Tacoma, W. T., is about one hundred and fifty miles. There was everywhere ample breadth, which sometimes counted by miles. It was novel to me to find myself on this great inland salt-water sea, hemmed in by lofty and beautifully wooded mountains and highlands; and I remained on deck all day except during dinner, enjovino- the varied scenes which presented themselves in one long and enchantino- panorama. The reflected rays of the sun had given my face the dark red tint of the Indian before I reached Tacoma. ])inner was considerately served in a saloon, the windows of Avhich commanded both sides of our course, and the way by which we had oouie, so that no sight-seeing was lost to us. Of constant recurrence were immense outlets on each side of us, stretching away we knew not how far, and as broad or broader than that in which we were plow- ing; our wav. Of picturesque places on the sound, where all were picturesque, Seattle, W. T., was the most prominent; rising from the water, ex- tending right back on the hills, showing to the utmost advantage its charming residences, and fine business blocks, and public buildings, and, most to its credit, largest and most striking, its public schools and university buildings, splendid and imposing. Nothing in the place was cjuite as good as these hulls of learning, and it is needless to say that Seattle commanded at once unhesitating respect. We had two or three hours of daylight left when we reached New Tacoma, \Y. T., at the head of navigation and the sound. We took rooms at " The Tacoma," an imposing palatial structure, splenilidly furnished, and in grounds tastefully laid out. It stands, as nearly all New Tacoma stands, high above the sound; and the best views of the city and surrounding country can be obtained from it. Beyond all comparison, it is the largest and best building in the place, and is one of the most comfortable hotels in the coinitry. It was built MUM FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 67 and is maintained to popularize New Tacoma, and was not expected to pay; but it does pay. New Tacoma is perhaps the foremost city on the sound. Old Tacoma is over the hills, in another bay. But the two places are gradually nearing each other, and have been incor- porated as one city. As we drove over to Old Tacoma, Saturday, August IGth, we found workmen cutting away and burning the forest, and improving the communications by road, leveling and straightening it out. The road stood in need of widening. There was no room to pass, except at special points ; and we had to stop till a team got out of our way, and sometimes we had to keep others waiting in the same way for us. These passing points were utilized by teamsters for purposes of gossip, and we were kept waiting at one point till two who were ahead of us had exchanged news with each other and departed on their separate ways. There is a large -ivaste of timber going on in this country, where much is burnt merely to get it out of the way. The most noticeable thing in Old Tacoma was the bell tower of the Episcopal Church. It is simply a tree with the top sawn off even, and the bell fixed thereon. The Episcopal Church is a shanty adorned with a cross. The {esthetic fever has reached New Tacoma, and we saw several "dude" houses pleasantly diversifying the ordinary sameness of city architecture. Mr. C. B. Wright, of Philadelphia, has given ^^5( 1,000 is an c idownient fr.nd to the Annie Wright Seminary for Young Ladies, a large t'lree-story building which he has erected in New Tacoma. Next to "The Tacoma," this seminary is the best building in the place. It is named after a daughter of Mr. Wright. He has also erected, at his own expense, an Ej)isoopal church, which has cost him 8^*5,000 ; and he has projected an educational institution for young niei., which he will endow with $50,000. He is, I believe, interested in "Tln^ Tacoma," and other city property, as well as in the railways here, and is fully dis- charging, witli lavish hand, all tlie duties which property owes to a community. New Tacoma is well provided with schools. An election was in progress while I was there. In the Third Ward four names of ladies headed four gentlemen on the nomination ticket. This was probably reversed when election day came. Extensive fires had swept away blocks, and much building was going on. Iron foun- dries, at an expense of -^2,000,000, are to be established, and to give enijjloymcnt to ^,000 people. i I m NOTES OF A TRIP The veranda of " The Tacoma" looks down upon the head-waters of the inland sea- waters, which here lose themselves in shallow grass and marsh. I sat lor an hour or more looking down upon this farthest advance inland of those Pacific floods, and at the opposite shore, wooded ;ind hilly ; at the Indian mission and school in the distance ; at Mount Tacoma, formerly Mount Rainier, about sixty- seven miles away, 14,300 feet high, forty miles in circumference at its base, and with a superficial area of 1,G00 miles. Thick clouds wrapped all of it except its head and l)ase, and there was more snow upon it than on any mountain which I have seen. In the intervening woods, near the city, lies an enchanted land of drives and lakehits. While 1 sat, a young bear belonging to the hotel grounds began to climb the veranda steps, possibly with the intention of opening social relations with me. He was not a bear of determined cluuacter, but was rather hesitating. He deliberated at every step, debating every move. About half way up he took a vote and decided to return. At the foot he reconsidered the motion, turned his face upward, raised his paws on the first step, took them down again to think it over another time, pondered profoundly and heavily, scratched his head and clawed out an idea, and turned and departed. Afterward he came again a few times, but could never make up his mind what course to take : he was a bear of a very undecided turn of mind. I did not care for his company anyway. Mr. xVckley, fc^rnierly of North Shields, now employed on a city paper here, called, and introduced himself as a Northumbrian, I had a most pleasant interview with him. He knew many known to me in Newcastle-upon-Tyne and the North of England. New Tacoma has a Chinese quarter with a population of about five hundred. Saturday, August IGth, at G p. m., we leave Tacoma by train. We go 105 miles by rail, and at 11 p. >r., at Kalama, we take the steamer, and do the remaining thirty-eight miles by river. We are in Portland early next morning, Sunday, August 17th. Portland has a population of 40,000, of which 10,000 are Chinese; it has "go" enough in it for a city of twic(i its population. Its traffic by rail and river is very huge. East Portland, on the opposite side of the Willamette, is a considerable place. Twelve miles onward is the junction of the Willamette ami Columbia rivers, the latter being the " Oregon " of old writers. Seventy years ago Bryant wrote, — FROM CHICAGO TO VICTOIiTA. 69 I 70 HOTES OF A TRIP "Take the wings Of niorniiig, traverse B'lvca's desert sands, {,)r lose thyself in the continuous woods AVliere rolls tl'.e Oregon, aud hears no sound Save his own dashiugs." These lines are the perfect expression of complete solitude, and they have always invested the Oregon to me with all the hues of romance. They clung to my memory, and would not let me forget them, nor the mighty stream they celebrated, and there came a haunting wish to see it. Since the poet wrote, change has come to the Coluiubia, and fleets sweep over it, and trains rush along its shores, which are lined with farms and villages and salmon canneries, and at its mouth Astoria stands sentry. , Monday, August 18th, I devote to business and other visits, and drives in Portland, its parks and suburbs. Splendid, substantial, solid business blocks and beautiful residences abound. For a city of its size it has an amazing number of fine private residences. There was one fi^3 street, palatial and pleasing. There live the pioneers, all in a row. They '' came here in the forties," said my informant, and they sat still and grew rich because they couldn't help it. They had the land, and in the heart of this city it became valuable. The drive to the City Park was like the ascents on the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad; we went up and up, and round and round, track above track, until we attained the highest point in the park, from whence we looked down upon Portland and wide spaces of landscape. Up a glorious ravine, and by roads like the road to the park, v;e drove out to the beautiful residence and grounds of hos- pitable Mr. Schultze, the Land Commissioner of the Northern Pacific Railroad. Forest fires away in the distance obscured the land, and preventtMl us from seeing all that we had bean led to expect to see from this eminence. Mount Hood, the lion of the land, was not visible. It was the only famous mountain on our whole trip which declined to be at home to us. In the city we passed what had once been a barren, stony ravine; but the industrious Chinaman has transformed it into a fruitful garden. At night we went to the Chinese theatre. The streets around it swar ned with Chinese; they were like ants on an ant hill. The theatre was crammed to suffocation ; there was not even standing room left. A box had been reserved for us. The boxes next to us were filled with Ch ese women of the only class, with rare exceptions, imported into this country. They were as (juiet and , FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 71 undemonstrative as if tiiey had not been outcasts. The audience were all very tjuiet, — ahnost stolid. They enjoyed themselves seri- ously ; scarcely a smile illuminated a countenance. There was more stir over something unknown to me which occurred in the audience than over anything going forward on the stage. There was a good deal of smoking, and fruits and candies wer(> trafBcked round. The seats and boxes were of common wood, and a very few strips of Chinese patterns, and a few Chinese inscriptions, were the sum total of any decorations. The stage was an open platform, at each end of which there was a packed audience, through which the actors had to force their way out. There were three or four seats, and no more stage scenery than would furnish forth a Punch and .fudy show. An indescribable orchestra sat at the rear of the stage, eternally assisting, and emphasizing points most noisily. Stage clears: orches- tra clatters and deafens. Actors enter: orchestra clatters and deaf- ens. Actors enter and make their exit at curtained entrances at the back of the stage on each side of the orchestra. They came in at the right of the orchestra, and made their exit at the left of the orches- tra. I was told that an actor having to feio-n death lies awhile on the stage, and then gets up and walks out. The only scenery I saw used was something like a pulpit, but not as large. Slight changes were made in it, and the actors also made slight changes on the platform during the action of the })lay. Except the few chairs, however, not much use was made of scenery, if that which was used can be dignified by that name. There were a few gorgeous costumes ; masks also were used, and fiends were made as uncanny as paper and paint coidd make them. No females perform on the Chinese stage, and horrid males painted an inch thick took the female parts. The singing consisted of a poor, rasping chant, screeching, screaming and howling, and had less of music in it than ordinary speech. There was a circular hole at the back of the stage, high above the orchestra, and that appeared to be utilized by spectators. Chinese plays last for days and weeks. We contented ourselves with a small section of one. When we came outside late the streets were still jammed with heathen. I do not know how long the theatre remains o|)en, — perhaps it never closes, — nor when the heathen sleep, — perhaps they keep awake always. They swarm on the streets at all hours. Next day, Tuesday, August 19th, after business, I visited art gal- leries and studios, and saw marvelous etfects in color, and wonderful FROM fine AGO TO VICTORIA. 78 transcripts of wonderful scenery. Colonel Toui Mimtv, of the Port- land Oregonian, did me tlie service to exj)lain these monster mount- ain scenes and river scenes, which he did with clearness and facility, having lived among them, camped beside them, and faced them for months at a time. Mr. Stuart, whose studio I visited, had his right arm in a sling. He got it broken, having sli|)ped on a glacier on one of the mountains a distance of '/iOO yards before he recovered himself. Wednesday, August 20th, at I a. sr., we leave on a steamer for The Dalles. This is the commencement of a continuous journey from Portland to St. Paul, 1,912 miles, which is to last up to the afternoon of Sunday, August 24th. We might have gone by rail from Port- land ; but wo preferred the steamer trip of one day on the Willamette and Columbia rivers. At The Dalles we had time for supper before the train, which left at 11:40 a. m., overtook us. We had engaged sl('ej)ing berths on the train, and, when it overtook us, we had noth- ing to do but to step on board and take our assigned places. The Willamette looked spacious enough to fill the full measure of the description of the Columbia. The conjunction of the two rivers deserved the title of a lake. , The Columbia, what we saw of it on this day's trip, was simply an immense canon filled by a correspondingly immense river. Fog and forest fires limited our sio-lit-seeinj>: ; mountains make our shores. Among the marvels of the rocky shores were Rooster Rock, Castle Rock, grotesque figures like sentries; palisades of varied kinds, high and low; at some points a perfect wall slanting away from the water, producing fine effects with the aid of sun and mist, or sunset; Multnomah Falls, and cascades like Niagara river above Niagara Falls. Curious rocks popped up here and there in this wonderful stream. Evidently these once had been one ; but the water had washed them apart. Rocky cones were numerous. The water had cut its way through the rocks. This was especially the case east of The Dalles, where the river dashed through many curious rocky channels which it had cut for itself. The trip from Portland to The Dalles was made by steamer to the Cascades; then we took a train for a few miles past the Cascades; and then took another steamer for The Dalles, from whence we made the remainder of our trip to St. Paul by train. We passed large canneries, where salmon are canned, and saw the simple method of catching" salmon wholesale. After leaving The Dalles, and just before nightfall, we passed an Indian village, or encampment, close to the river. An Indian girl ,! I| 74 NOTES OF A TRIP FROM CHICAGO TO VI<'T0R1A. 75 was picking her way alonir the short'; an riuliaii man and boy, mounted on one liorse, jojrgcil indoh-ntly along; an Indian woman was rowing in a boat, and her " noble," melancholy red man sat at his ease therein. One Indian hut stood close to the river's edge, con- venient for fishing, and subject to prompt change of base if the river should rise; and rivers out here are troubled tliat way. Some of tlie beds were outside of all sli Iter, with .mly the sky for a canopy. Indians of all age and sexe^ were spiawling in all directions and attitudes, none of the latter graceful or picturesijue, and some not quite decent. Old female Indians were withered, shriveled and ugly. Dirt and S(|ualor! The noble red man? Oh, no! The dirty, lazy, thieving red man, devoid of all romance or grace, yet not quite d'void of interest, because he continues to be considi : .ible of a nuisance and obstruction. Jt were too long to tell of rivers, lakes and mountains with which we made accjuaintance; of inunense gorges through which we ;ind the rivers ran, rivers which we cross and recross, and lose and tind again endlessly. From our iimer consciousness we evolve how a town is made. It is done by cutting down a few trees, and burning a few more, thus clearing a space in the woods sufficient for a few tents and wooden houses, then shooting somebody to start a ceme- tery, and the thing is done. In one new town we saw an hotel. It bore the siirn of " Palace Hotel," and promised frosh bread and beds. It was a loiv,, wooden shanty of one room, with a " wash-room " at one side of it. Tn- ferentially we came to the conclusion, that, after supper is served every evening, and the tables cleared, beds are then made up on the tables ; and any high-toned, gilt-edged, kid-gloved guest, who is very particular and exclusive, can have a lable to himself on payment of extra charge. Indians and Chinese al)ound on this route ; the latter were imported to build the railroad, and remained to j)rey. We passed a graveyard with memorials erected by vigilants to those whom they had rooted out. It was but yesterday, so to speak, and that state of society has passed away so quickly that it will be myth to-morrow. Change comes so fast in new lands. We passed a mountain on tire ; it was more a blaze of weeds and grass than trees. The crossing of lake Pend d'Oreille on the railway was fine, and the scenery on the whole route was marvelous. It is well named " Wonderland" in books which treat of it. Night and darkness reigned when we crossed the M'Gsouri ; but we got out on the rear platform of the car to strain our eyes to pierce 7(i NOTES OF A TlilP Lake PenH d'Oreille. FllOM C :iiicAuo TO vwroniA. ,.^'r--<- .«*•>• .1. ..'Wiv-,-. 11 .''\ .-i'- through the aark, to the ^vaters which have still 3,0 00 unles to so before they reach the sea. Above the bridge, the Missouri and its affluents have 2,000 miles of navigable ^, ,„.e„ -'-^^ZXC 10.000 .awe. v.>^ - o„etotlimy , ,^,.i, inllnite variety. ., ofith we reroainea „,a never t.rea of hu ^^^ ^^ ^,^,^^,„ ^"^ t" Vo.t Snelliug i„ S, ra>.>, -'' *!= "rr'\v ■ " Say'.or„„>, « were u, U ■ :„d *eFa.UoOI.n- ah- ;^^^„^ „, G,.UO .nlles a-.^ - , ^^^ eago, after oav tb.rty-four day ^^^ .^^^^ "'"^..'r to State "•' -' '""" ''rrV, ^aVtate^, not inCuVug lU-.o.s, ,„d Tcrritone. of the U ^^.^^_ ^^.^ ^^,^„.„,d. (rom which we Btartea, anu »l Ji