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TO DETERMINE The Position and Extent of the West Side of North America; its Distance from Asia ; and the Practicability of a Northern Passage to Europe. « PERFORMED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF Captains C O O K, C L E R K E, and GORE, lii liis Majesty's Ships the RESOLUTION a.id DISCOVERY. In ii.v. Years 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, and 1780. . • IN THREE VOLUMES. VOL. I. and II. written by Captain JAMES COOK, F. R. S. VOL. IIL by Captain JAMES KING, LL.D. and F. R. S. llluftrated with Maps and Charts, from the Origina! Drawings made by Lieut. Henry Roberts, under the Direftion of Captain CooK ; and with a great Variety of Portraits of Perfor.s, View* of Places, and Hillorical Representations of Remarkable Incidents, drawn by Mr. Wee if. during the Voyage, and engraved by the moll eminent Artifts. ^ PubUflied by Order of the Lords Commiffioners of the Admiralty. V O L. I. LONDON: PRINTED BY W. AND A. STRAHAN: FOR G. NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESIV, IN THE STRAND; AND T. CADELL, IN THE STRAND. MDCCLXXXIV. !' ) •■ CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. Introducti«^n. Infcription to the Mdmory of Captain James Cook. Lift of the Plates, ■ BOOK I. Page i IxxKvii xct Tranfadions from the Beginning of the Voyage till our Departure from New Zealand. C H A P. I. prARIO U cS Preparations for the f'oyage.—Omais Bebaviottr on embarking. — Obfer-uations for determining the Longitude of Sheer- nef, and the North Foreland.^ Pajage of the Refhition from Deptford to Plymouth.^Employments there. — Complements of the Crezvs of both Ships, and Names of the OJpcers.—Obfrvatioiis to fix the Longitude of Plymouth. — Departure of the RefAution. Page I CHAP. ir. Paffdge of the R folution to Teneriffe. -^Reception tberc-Defcription of Santa Q'UL Road.^RefrefJmenls tc be met tulth.^Ohfcrvations A % fir CONTENTS. forfxing the Lon^itudt: of Teneriffe. — Some Account of the IflavJ^ — Botanical Obfervat'ions.'-'Citics of Santa Cruz and Laguna.-— ylgricuUurc. — Air and Climate.—Coviincrce. — Inhabitants. 14 ' . C H A P. iir. ' Departure from Tencriffe. — Danger of the Srjip near Bonavifia. — Ifle of M'jyo. — Port Pray a. — Precautions agalnfl the Rain and fu I try •weather in the Neighbourhood of the Equator. — Pofition of the Coafi of Brazil. — Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. — 2 infa^iions there. — fnnclion of the Difcovery. — Mr, Andcrfons 'Journey up the Country. — ylfronomical Obfcrvations, — Nautical Remarks on the PaJJiige from England to the Cape^ with regard to the Cur-* rents and the Variation. 2^ C H A P. IV. T/j,^ two Ships leave the Cape of Good Hope. — Tivo 7/Iands, named Prince Ediuard's, fcen-t and their Appearance defcribed. — Ker- guelens hand vifited. — Arrival in Chrijlmas Harbour. — Occur- rences there.'— Defcription of it. ^\ CHAP. V. Departure from Chrijlmas Harbour. — Range along the Coafl, to difcO' ver its Pofitior and Extent. — Several Promontories and Bays, and a Penitfula, dfcribed and named. — Danger from Shoals. — Another Harbour and c Sound. Mr, Anderfons Obfcrvations on the natural Produflions, Animals, Soil, ^c. ofKerguclen's Land. 70 C H A P. VI. PaJfags from Kerguelen^s to Van Diemen's Land. — Arrival in Ad- venture Bay, — Incidents there. — Intervieivs ivith the Natives.-— Their P erf ons md Drcfs defcribed. — Account of their Behaviour.-^ 'Table of the Longitude, Latitude, and Variatici. — Mr. Andefons Obfcrvations on the natural Produclicns of the Country, on the In-^ habitants, and their Language. ' 9 1 6 ■I, CONTENTS. CHAP. VII. ne PaJJ-age from Van BicmeiCs Land to New Zealand, -^Employ, menu m ^een Charlotte's Souml.-^Tranfailicns •with the Natives there.— In'elligence abmit the MaJJacre of the Adventures Bout^s Cre-w.—Jccount of the Chief -who headed the Party on that Occa> fton.—Ofthe two young Men tvho embark to attend Omai.-Various Remarks on the Inhabitants.— Ajlronomical and Nulical Obferva- tions, ii8 CHAP. VIII. Mr. Anderfm's Remarks on the Country near ^,een Charlotte's Sound, —The Soil.— Climate. — Weather.— Winds. — Trees.-Plants — Birds.-Fi/Jj.-Other Animals.-Of the Inhabit ant s. -Defe, ipt ion . oftlmr Perfons.-Their Drefs.-Ornaments.^-Habitations.^Boats --Food and Coohry.- Arts. -Weapons. -Cruelty to Prifoners.^ Various Cujloms. -Specimen of their Language. . BOOK IL From leP.ving New Zealand, to our Arrival at Otaheitc, or the Society Illands. [ C H A P. I. Profecution of the Voyage. -Behaviour of the two Nezu Zealanders on board.-Vnfavourable winds,- An JJland called Mangecadifcovered. —The Coajl of it excmined.—rranfaaions -with the Natives. -An Account of their Perfons, Drefs, and Canoe. -Defcript ion of the Ifand.-A Specimen of the Language. -Difpoftion of the Inhabit, ants, - i"7 CONTENTS. C H A P. ir. The Dtfcovery of an Tjland called IVutccoo.—It^ Coajls examine J — ri/Its from the Nathei on board the Ships.— Mrjf. Core. Burney, and Anderfon, ivith Omaiy Jent on Shore — Mr. Anderfns Narrative of their Reception. — Omai^s Expedient to prevent their king dc tained. — His meeting ivithfome of his Countrymen, and their dijlrcfs- ful Voyage. —Farther A count of Watceooy and of its Inhabitants, i Ho CHAP. III. Wenooa-elte^ or Otakootaia^ vifited. — Accotmt of that ffland, and of its Produce. Hervey^s Jfland^ or Terovgga mou Attooa^ found to be inhabited. — TranfaHions ivith the Natives. — Their Peifons^ Drefsy Language, Cano:s. — Fruitlefs Attempt to land there.— Rea- fonsfor bearing aivayfor the Friendly Iflands. — Palmerjlons J/land touched at. — Defcription of t'e two Places ivhere the Boats landed. — Refrep.nicnts obtained there. — Conjiclures on the Formation of fuch low Iflands. — Arrival at the Friendly //lands. 205 CHAP. IV. Intercourfe ivith the Natives of Komango, and other Iflands — Arrival at Annamoo'icing particulirly dc- fribe.t. 242 CONTENTS, C H A P. VI. Xfefcription of Lefaoga.—-Its cultivated State. — /// Extent.— Tr.infctc- tions there,-^A Female Ocultjl, — Singular Expedients for fljaving off the Hair. — The Ships change their Station.— A remarkuble Mount and Stone. — Defcription of Hoolaiva. — Account of Poulaho, King of the Friendly Iflands. — RefprHful Manner in which he is treated by his People. — Departure from the Hapace //lands. — Some Account of Kotoo. — Return of the Ships to Annamooka. — Poulaho and Feenou meet.— Arrival at Jongatabos. 356 CHAP. Vil. Friendly Reception at Tongatahoo. — Manner of dijlrihuting a baked Hog and Kava to Poulaljo's Attendants.— The Obfervntory^ (jjc. erei^ed'. — The Village tvhere the Chiefs refde, and the adjoining Country^ defcribed. — Ifitervieivs ivith Mareeivagee, and Toobon, and the King* s S^n: — A grand Haiva, or Entertainment of Songs and Dances t given by Mareeivagee. — Ex'.'ibition ofFire-zvorh.'— Manner of IVreJlHng and Boxing.— Dijlribut ion of the Cattle. — Thefts committed by the Natives.— Poulaho, and the other Chiefs., confned on that Account.— Poulaho' s Prefenty and Haiva. 27^ CHAP. VIIT. Some of the Officers plundered by the Natives. — A fjl:ing Party.^-^ A Viftt to Poulaho. — A Fiatooka defcribed.— Obfervat ions on the Country Entertainment at Poulaho s Houfe.—His Mourning Cere- mony. — Of the Kava Plant , and the Mnnner of preparing the Li- quor. — Account of Onevy, a little Ifland.—One of the Natives ivouttded by a Sentinel. — Meffrs. King and Anderfon vijit the Khg s Brother.— Their Entertainment. — Another Mourning Ceremony. — Manner ofpaffing the Night.— Remarks on the Country they paffed through. — Preparations made for failing. — An Echpfe of the Sun, imperfe^ly obferved.—Mr. Anderfon s Account of the Ifland, and its ProduSlions* 309 CONTENTS. C H A P. IX, Jl grand Solemnity y called Natch E, in Honour of the Kings Sortt performed. — The Prcctiffions and other Ccrcmoniesy during the firjl y )f Byroa's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 23, 24 — 5J, jz, 53, 54- a Befides INTRODUCTION. Befides the determination of this conHderable point, other 14nds, fituated in the South Adantic, have been brought forward into view. If the ifle of Georgia had been for- merly fcen by La Roche, in 1675, and by Mr. Guyot, in the fliip Lion, in 1756, which feems to be probable, Captain Cook, in 1775, has made us fully acquainted with its extent and true pofition; and, in the fame year, he added to the map , of the world Sandwich Land, hitherto not known to exift, and the molt Southern difcovery that has been ever accom- plifhed *. II. Though the Strait of Magalhaens had been frequently vifitcd, and failed through, by fhips of different nations, before our time, a careful examination of its bays, and harbours, and head-lands ; of the numerous iflands it con- tains, and of the coafls, on both fides, that inclofe it; and an exadl account of the tides, and currents, and foundings, throughout its whole extent, was a talk, which, if Sir John Narborough, and others, had not totally omitted,' they cannot be faid to have recorded fo fully, as to pre- clude the utility of future inveftigation. This tafk has been ably and effec^ally performed by Byron, Wallis, and '' Carteret ; whofe tranfaftions in this Strait, and the chart of it, founded on their obfervations and difcoveries, are a moft > valuable acceffion to geography. IIL If the corretft information, thus obtained,' about every> part of this celebrated Strait, fhould deter future adven- turers from involving themfelves in the difficulties and ' * See the Chart of DifcoverV:s in the South Atlantic. Ceok's Vo} p. aio. cmbarralTments vu triii INTRODUCTION. embarraflmcnts of a labyrinth, now known to be fo intri- cate, and the unavoidable fource of danger and delay, we have the fatisfadtion to have difcovered, that a fafcr and more expeditious entrance into the Pacific Ocean, may be reafonably depended upon. The paflage round Cape Horn, has been repeatedly tried, both from the Eaft and from the Weft, and ftript of its terrors. We fhall, for the future, be Icfs difcouraged by the labours and diftrefles experienced by the fquadrons of Lord Anfon and Pizarro, when we recol- le(5l, ihatthey were obliged to attempt the navigation of thofe feas at an unfavourab'c feafon of the year ; and tha*: there was nothing very formidable met with there, when they were traverfed by Captain Cook. To this diftinguifhed navigator was referved the honour of being the firft, who, from a feries of the mod fatisfa(fl:ory obfervations, beginning at the Weft entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens, and carried on, with unwearied diligence, round Tierra del Fuego, through the Strait of Le Maire, has conftrudted a chart of the Southern extremity of America, from which it will appear, how much former navigators muft have been at a lofs to guide themfelves, and what advantages will now be enjoyed by thofe who Ihall here- after iiil round Cape Horn. IV. As the voyages of difcovery, undertaken by his Majefty's command, have facilitated the accefs of fhips into the Pa- cific Ocean, they have alfo greatly enlarged our knowledge of its contents. Though the immenfe expanfe ufually diftinguiflied by this appellation, had been navigated by Europeans for ^ near INTRODUCTION. near two centu»ies and a half*, by far the greater part of it, particularly to the South of the equator, had remained, during all this lime, unexplored. The great aim of Magalhaens, and of the Spaniards in general, its firft navigators, being merely to arrive, by this pafTage, at the Moluccas, and the other Afiatic Spice Iflands, every intermediate part of the ocean that did not lie conti- guous to their Weftern track, which was on the North fide of the equator, of courfe efcap«d due examination ; and if Mendana and Quiros, and fome namelefs conductors of voyages before them t» by deviating from this track, and holding a Wefterly one from Callao, within the Southern tropic, were fo fortunate as to meet with various iflands there, and fo fanguine as to confider thofe iflands as marks of the exiftence of a neighbouring Southern continent ; in the exploring of which they flattered themfelves they fhould rival the fame of De Gama and Columbus ; thefe feeble efforts never led to any eflPedlual difclofnre of the fuppofed hidden mine of the New World. On the contrary, their voyages being conduced without a judicious plan, and their difcoveries being left imperfect without immediate fet- tlement, or fubfequent examination, and fcarcely recorded in any well-authenticated or accurate narrations, had been almoft forgot; or were fo obfcurely remembered, as only to ferve the purpofe of producing perplexing debates about their fituation and extent} if not to fuggeft doubts about their very exiftence. U(. • Magalhacns's Voyage was undertaken in 1519. t See the particulars of their difcoveries in Mr. Dalrymple's valuable Collc<5lion of Voyages in the South Pacific Ocean. Vol. I. It INTRODUCTION. It fecms, indeed, to have become a very early objeft of policy in the Spanifli councils, to difcontinue and to dif- courage any farther refearches in that quarter. Already maflers of a larger empire on the continent of America than they could conveniently govern, and of richer mines of the precious metals on that continent than they could convert into ufe, neither avarice nor ambition furniflied rea- fons for aiming at a frefh acceilion of dominions. And thus, though fettled all along the Ihores of this Ocean, in a fitua- tion fo commodious for profecuting difcoveries throughout its wide extent, the Spaniards remained fatisfied with a coafting intercourfe between their own ports j never ftretch- ing acrofs the vaft gulph that feparates that part of America from Aila, but in an unvarying line of navigation ; perhaps in a iingle annual ihip, between Acapulco and Manilla. The tracks of other European navigators of the South Pacific Ocean, were, in a great meafure, regulated by thofe of the Spaniards ; and confequently limited within the fame narrow bounds. With the exception, perhaps, of two in- flances only, thofe of Le Maire and Roggewein, no fliips of another nation had entered this fea, through the Strait of Ma- galhaens, or round Cape Horn, but for the purpofes of clan- deftine trade with the Spaniards, or of open hoftility againft them : purpofes which could not be anfwered, without pre- cluding any probable chance of adding much to our ftock of difcovery. For it was obvioufly incumbent on all fuch adventurers, to confine their cruifes within a moderate diftance of the Spanifli fettlements ; in the vicinity of which alone they could hope to exercife their commerce, or to execute their predatory and military operations. Ac- cordingly, foon after emerging from the Strait, or com- pleting I N T R O D U C T I O IT. pleting the circuit of Tierra del Fuego, they began to hold a Northerly courfc, to the uninhabited ifland of Juan Fer- nandez, their ufual fpot of rendezvous and refreflimcnt. And, after ranging along the continent of America, from Chili to California, they either reverfed their courfe back to the At- lantic ; or, if they ventured to extend their voyage, by ftretch- ing over to Afia, t^ ^y never thought of trying experiments in the unfrequented and unexplored parts of the Ocean ; but chofe the beaten path (if the expreffion may be ufed), within the limits of which it was likely that they might meet with a Philippine galleon, to make their voyage pro- fitable to themfelves ; but could have little profpeft, if they had beendefirous, of making it ufeful to the world, by gain- ing any accelfion of new land to the Map of the World. By the natural operation of thefe caufes, it could not but happen, that little progrefs fhould be made toward obtain- ing a full and accurate knowledge of the South Pacific Ocean. Somethiwg, however, had been attempted by the induftrious, and once enterprifing Dutch ; to whom we are indebted for three voyages, undertaken for the purpofes of difcovery ; and whofe refearches, in the Southern latitudes of this Ocean, are much better afcertained than are thofe of the earlier Spanifh navigators above mentioned. I.e Maire and Shouten, in i6i6, and Roggewein, in 1722, wifely judging, that nothing new could be gained by a'*, hering to the ufual palTage on the North fide of the 1 - oe, traverfed this Ocean from Cape Horn to the Eaft Indi , crofling the South tropic ; a fpace which had been £0 feldom, and fo ineffedtually vifited ; though popular belief, fortified by philofophical fpeculation, expected there to reap the richeft harveft of difcovery. b 2 Tafman, I xU I N T R O D U C • O N. Taftnan, in 1642, in his cxtcnfivc circuit from Batavia, through the South Indian Ocean, entered the South Pacific, at its greateft diftancc from the American fide, where it never had been examined before. And his range continued from a high Southern latitude, Northward to New Guinea, and the iilands to the Eafi: of it near the equator, produced intermediate difcoveries, that have rendered his voyage me- morable in the annals of navigation. But ftill, upon the whole, what was efFc(5Ved in thcfe three expeditions, ferved only to fhew how large a field was referved for future and more perfevering examination. Their refults had, indeed, enabled geographers to diverfify the vacant uniformity of former charts of this Ocean, by the infertion of fome new iflands. But the number, and the extent of thefe infertions were fo inconfiderable, that they may be faid to appear Rari, nantes in gurgltc vafto.. And, if the difcoveries were few, thofe few were made very imperfedlly. Some coafts were approached, but not landed upon ; and pafled without waiting to examine their extent, and connection with thofe that might exift at no great diftance. If others were landed upon, the vifits were, in general, fo tranficnt, that it was fcarccly poilible to build upon a foundation, fo weakly laid, any information that could even gratify idle curiofity ; much lefs fatisfy.philofo- phical inquiry, or contribute greatly to the fafety, or to the fuccefs of future navigation. Let us. however, do juftice to thcfe beginnings of dif- covery. To the Dutch we muft, at lead, afcribe the merit of leing our harbingers, though we afterward went beyond ^ . them i INTRODUCTION. tbem in the road they had firft ventured to tread. And witii what fucccfs his Majefty's (hips have, in their repeated voyages, penetrated into the obfcurcft receHes of the South Pacific Ocean, will appear from the following enumeration of their various and very extenfivc operations, which have drawn up the veil that had hitherto been Rirown over the geography of fo great a proportion of the globe. I. The feveral lands, of which any account had been' given, as feen by any of the preceding navigators, Spanifli or Dutch, have been carefully looked for; and mod of them (at leaft fuch as feemcd to be of any confcquence) found out and vifited ; and not vifited in a curfory manner, but every means ufed to corre<5l former miftakes, and to fupply former deficiencies, by making accurate inquiries a(hore, and taking ikilful furveys of their coafts, by failing round them. Who has not heard, or rcr * of the bbafted Tierra Aujlralia del Efpiritu Santo of Quiros But its bold prc- tcnfions to be a part of a Sourhcrn continent, could not ftand Captain C6ok*s examination, who failed round ir, and afligned it its true pofition and moderate bounds, in the Atchipelago of the New Hebrides *. a. Befides perfecfling many of the difcoveries of thcir prcddceflbrs, our late navigators have enriched geo-i graphical knowledge with a long catalogue of theirt own. The Pacific Oce?r, within the South tropic, re- peatedly traverfed, in every direftion, was found to^ fwarm with a feemingly endlefs profufion of habitable fpots of land. Iflands fcattered through the. amazing fpacei * Bougainville, in 176?, did ho more than difcover that the land here was not con- neiS^ed, but compofed of iflands. Captain Cook, in 1774, explored the whole group. * See Cook's Voyage, Vol. il. p. 96. Ofr xlii XIV INTRODUCTION. of near fourfcorc degrees of longitude, feparatcd at various diftanccs, or grouped in numerous cluAers, have, at their approacli, as it were, ftarted into exiftcnce i and fuch ample accounts have been brought home concerning them and their inhabitants, as may fcrve every ufeful purpofe of in- quiry ; and, to ufc Captain Cook's words, who bore fo con- iiderable a fliarc in thofe difcoverics, have left little more to be done in that part *. 3. Byron, Wallis, and Carteret, had each of them contri- buted toward increafmg our knowledge of the iflands that exid in the Pacific Ocean, within the limits of the Southern tropic ; but how far that ocean reached to the Weft, what lands bounded it on that fide, and the connection of thofe lands with the difcoveries of former navigators, was ftill the reproach of geographers, and remained abfolutely un- known, till Captain Cook, during his firft voyage in 1770!, brought back the moft fatisfaAory deciflon of this import- ant queftion. With a wonderful pcrfeverance, and confum- mate fkill, amidft an uncommon combination of perplexi- ties and dangers, he traced this coaft near two thoufand miles from the 38' of South latitude, crofs the tropic, to its Northern extremity, within lo'^ of the equinoctial, where it was found to join the lands already explored by the Dutch, in feveral voyages from their Afiaiic fettlements, and to which they have given the name of New Holland. Thofe difcoveries made in the laft century, before Tafman's voyage, had traced the North and the Weft coafts of this land J and Captain Cook, by his extenfive operations on its Eaft fide, left little to be done toward completing the full circuit of it. Between Cape Hicks, in latitude 38% where his examination of this coaft began ; and that part of Van • Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 239. f Sec Hawkefworth's CoIJeaion, Vol. iii 4 Diemen's INTRODUCTION. zv Diemen's Land, from whence Tafman took his departure, was not above fihy-five leagues. It was highly probable, therefore, that they were connected ; though Captain Cook cautioufly fays, that he could not determine whether his New South Wales, that is, the Eall Coaft of New Holland, joins to Van Diemerii Land, or no*. But what was thus left undetermined by the operations of his firft voyage, was, in the courfe of his fecond, loon cleared up ; Captain Furneaux, in the Ad- venture, during his Reparation from the Rcfolution (a for- tunate reparation as it thus turned out) in 1773, having ex- plored Van Diemen's Land, from its Southern point, along the Eaft coaft, far beyond Tafman's flation, and on to the latitude 38°, where Captain Cook's examination of it in 1770 had commenced f- It is no longer, therefore, a doubt, that we have now a full knowledge of the whole circumference of this vaft body of land, this fifth part of the world (if I may fo fpcak), which our late voyages have difcovered to be of fo amazing a magnitude, that, to ufe Captain Cook's words, it is of a larger extent than any other country in the knoivn ivorhly that Joes not bear the name of a continent %. 4. Tafman having entered the Pacific Ocean, after leav- ing Van Diemen's Land, had fallen in with a coaft to which he gave the name of New Zealand. The extent of this coaft, and its pofition in any dire(5tion but a part of its Weft fide, which he failed along in his courfe Northward, being left abfolutely unknown, it had been a favourite opinion amongft geographers, fince his time, that New Zealand was • Hawkefworth, Vol. iii. p. 483. •^■ Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 114. \ HawcTworth, Vol. iii. p. 62a. a part Al ivi INTRODUCTION. a part of a Southern continent, running North and South, from the 33° to the 64' of South latitude, and its Northern coaft, flretching crofs the South Pacific to an immenfe diftance, where its Eaftern boundary had been feen by Jaan Fernandez, half a century before. Captain CooJc's voyage in the Endeavour, has totally deftroyed this fuppofi- tion. Though Tafman muft Hill have the credit of having firft feen New Zealand ; to Captain Cook folely belongs tliat of having really explored it. He fpent near fix months upon its coafts in 1769 and 1770*, circumnavigated it com- pletely, and afcertained its extent and divifion into two iflandsf. Repeated vifits fince that, have perfected this im- portant dlfcovery, which, though now known to be no part of a Southern continent, will, probably, in all future charts of the world, be dillinguiflied as the largefl iflands that exift in that part of the Southern hemifphere. 5. Whether New Holland did or did not join to New Guinea, was a queftion involved in much doubt and uncer- tainty, before Captain Cook's failing between them, thrc^ugh Endeavour Strait, decided it. We will not hefitate to call tliis an important acquifition to geography. For though the great fagacity and extenfive reading of Mr. Dalrymple, had difcovered fome traces of fuch a pafTage having been found before:}:, yet thefe traces were fo obfcure, and fo little known in the prcfent age, that they had not generally re- gulated the conftru6lion of our charts ; the Prefident De * From Oflobcr 6, 1769, to March 31, 1770". t Its Southern extremity nearly in latitude 47", and its Norther.-' in 3S°|. See Captain Cook's chart, in Hawkefworth, Vol. ii. p. 281. I oee the track of Torre, in one of Quiros's fliips, in 1606, between New Hol- land and New Guinea, upon Mr. Dalrymp'e's Chart of Difcoveries in the South Tixific Ocean, before 1764. - . Brofles, m m •I- INTRODUCTION. Brofles*, who wrote in 1756, and was well verfed in geo- graphical refearches, had not been able to fatisfy himfelf about them; and Monf. de Bougainville, in 1768, who had ventured to fall in with the South coaftof New Guinea, near ninety leagues to the Weftward of its South Eaft point, chofe rather to work thofe ninety leagues dire<5lly to windward, at a time when hi« people were in fuch diftrcfs for provifions as to eat the feal-lkins from off the yards and rigging, than to run the rifk of finding a pafTage, of the exiftence of which he entertained the ftrongeft doubts, by perfevering in his Wefterly courfe f. Captain Cook therefore in this part of his voyage (thcugh he modeflly difclaims all merit J), has eftabliflied, beyond future controverfy, a fadl of el- fential fervice to navigation, by opening if not a new, at leaft an unfrequented and forgotten communication be- tween the South Pacific and Indian Oceans. 6. One more difcovery, for which we are indebted to Cap- tain Carteret, as fimilar in fome degree to that laft men« tioned, may properly fucceed it, in this enumeration. Dampier, in failing round what was fuppofed to be part of the coaft of New Guinea, difcovered it to belong to a fepa- rate ifland, to which he gave the name of New Britain. But that the land which he named New Britain, fhould be fub-divided again into two feparate large iflands, with .eny • M. de BrofTcs fays of New Guinea : " C'eft une longiii illc, ou prcfqu' ille, " fi clle touche a la Nouvellc HoUande." Navigations aux Terra AiiJlraUs^ Tom. i, P- 434- t " Le trifle ctat ou nous '.'Jons rcdnlts, nc nous permettoit de cherchcr en fiifjnt " route a I'oucH:, un paflage au fud dc la NouvcUe Guince, qui nous frayat par Ic " Golfe de la Carpenterie une route nouvclle & courte aux ilcs Moluqucs. Rim " n'itoit a la viriti plus probUmntiquc que Vexi/h'tce dc ce p »viii INTRODUCTION. fmaller intervening, is a point of geographical informatiou, which, if ever traced by any of the carlieft navigators of the South Pacific, had not been handed down to the prefcnt age : and its having been afcertained by Captain Carteret, deferves to be mentioned as adifcovery, in the ftridteft fenfe of the word ; a difcovery of the utmoft importance to na- vigation. St. George's Channel, through which his £hip found a way, between New Britain and New Ireland, from the Pacific into the Indian Ocean, to ufe the Captain's own words*, *• is a much better and Ihorter pafTage, whether from the Eaftward or Weftward, than round all the iflands, and lands to the Northward f." V. The voyages of Byron, Wallis, and Carteret were prin^ cipally confined to a favourite objedV of difcovery in the South Atlantic, and though acceflions to geography were procured by them in the South Pacific^ they could do but little toward giving the world a complete view of the con- - tents of that immenfe expanfe of ocean, through which they only held a direcSt track, on their way homeward by the , Eaft-Indies. Cook, indeed, who was appointed to the conduct of the fucceeding voyage, had a mare accurate ex- amination of the South Pacific intruded to him. But as the improveiTicnt of aftionomy went hand in hand, in his in- ftrucSlions, with that of geography, the Captain's Iblicitude * Hawkefworth, Vol. i. p. 563. f The pofition of the Solomon Ifland?, Mendana's celebrated difcovery, will no longer remain a matter in debate amongft geographers, Mr. Dalrymplc having, oa the moft fatisfadory evidence, proved, that they are the clufter of iflands which com- prizes what has fincc been called New Brit.iin, New Ireland, &c. The great light . thrown on that clufter by Captain Carteret's difcovery, is a ftrong confirmation of this. See Mr. Dalrymple's Colledioii of Voy.ngcs, Vol. i. p, 16 — 21. ' ,■ ' ' ; & - .• ■ ■ - ''. to H INTRODUCTION. xis to arrive at Otaheite time enough to obferve the tranfit of Venus, put it out of his power to deviate from his dircdl track, in fcarch of unknown lands that might he to the South Eait of that ifland. By this unavoidable attention to his duty, a very confiderable part of the South Pacific, and that part where the richeft mine of difcovery was fuppofed to exift, remained unvifited and unexplored, during that ■voyage in the Endeavour. To remedy this, and to clear up a point, which, though many of the learned were confident of, upon principles of fpeculative reafoning, and many of the unlearned admitted, upon what they thought to be cre- dible teftimony, was ftill held to be very problematical, if not abfolutely groundlefs, by others who were lefs fanguine or more incredulous ; his Majefty, always ready to forward every inquiry that can add to the (lock of intcrefting know- ledge in every branch, ordered another expedition to be un- dertaken. The fignal fervices performed by Captain Cook, during his firft voyage, of which we have given the out- lines, marked him as the fitted perfon to finiQi an examina- tion which he had already fo Skilfully executea in part. Ac- cordingly, he was fent out in 1772, with two (hips, the Re- folution and Adventure, upon the moft enlarged plan of difcovery known in the annals of navigation. For he was inftrudcd not only to circumnavigate the whole globe, but to circumnavigate it in high Southern latitudes, making fuch traverfes, from time to time, into every corner of the Pacific Ocean not before examined, as might finally and ef- fe<5tually refolve the much agitated queftion about the exift- cnce of a Southern continent, in any part of the Southern hemifphere accefllble by navigation. The ample acceffions to geography, by the difcovery of many iflands within the Tropic in the Pacific Ocean, in the c 2 courfe ' XX INTRODUCTION. courfe of this voyage, which was carried on, with Angular perfeverance, between three and four years, have been al- ready ftated to the reader. But the general fearch now made, throughout the whole Southern hemifphere, as being the principal objetfl in view, hath been referred for this fe-. paraie article. Here, indeed, we are not to take notice of lands that have been difcov^red, but of feas failed through, where lands had been fuppofed to exift. In tracing the route of the Refolution and Adventure, throughout the South Atlantic, the South Indian, and the South Pacific . Oceans that environ the globe, and combining it with the route of the Endeavour, we receive what may be called ocu- lar demonftration, that Captain Cook, in his perfevering re- fearches, failed over many an extenfive continent, which, though fuppofed to have been feen by former navigators, at the approach of his fliips, funk into the bofom of the ocean, and, like the hafelefs fabric of a vifton^ left not a rack behind*. It * It muft be obferved, however, that Moniieur le Monier, in the Memoirs of the French Academy of Sciences for 1776, pleads for the exiftence of Cape Circumci.. fion, feen by Bouvet in 1738, which our Englifh navigator fought for in vain, and fuppofes to have been only an ifland of ice. Mr. Wales, in a paper read before the Royal Society, very forcibly replied to M. le Monicr's objections ; and the attack having been repeated, he has drawn up a more extended defence of this part of Cap- tain Cook's Journal, which he hath very obligingly communicated, and is here in- ferted. •JrgumentSy Unding to prove that Captain Cook fought for Cape Circumcifion under the pro- per Meridian ; and that the Ohjeitiom which have been made to his Conduilf in this refpeSfy are not well founded. In the Memoirs of the Royal Academy of Sciences at Paris for 1776, printed in 1779, M. Le Monier has made fome remarks, with a defign to fhew that Captain Cook fought the land, ufually called Cape Circumcifion, in a wrong place ; and that, inftead of looking for it under the meridian of 9°^ or 10" of Eaft longitude, he ought to have looked for it under a meridian which is only 3", or 3° s to the Eaftward of the meridian INTRODUCTION. It has been urged, that the exiftence of a Southern con* tinent is necelFary to preferve an equilibrium between the twa- meridian of Greenwich : and confcquently that this land may exift, notwithftanding. all that has yet been done to find it. M. Le Moniir has alfo two additional Memoirs on the fame fubjeft, in the volume for 1779, occafioned, as it appears, by fome ob- jcdions which have been made to his former Memoir before the Academy. For fome reafon or other, the Academy has not thought proper to print the obje£Uons which have been made to M. Le Monier'i hypothefis ; nor has he been particular enough in his two Memoirs, which reply to them, to enable me to fay of what importance the objeflions are. I can only gather, that they contain fome exceptions to the quantity by which M. Le Monicr aflerts the variation alters in 10" of longitude, under the parallel of 54' South ; and which, I conceive, has little to do in the difpute. Whether the land, ufually called Cape Circumcifion, exifts or not, is a point of fmall importance to geography j as the mod ftrenuous aflerters of its exiftcnce muft allow it to be a very inconfiderable ifland, and of no ufe. This, therefore, is not, in itfelf, a matter worthy of difpute : but, in afTerting this, M. Lt Mon'ier has, and X am forry to obferve it, with fome afperity too, particularly in his fecond Memoir, endeavoured to ccnfure the judgment and conduft of Captain Cook, whofe memory I have every reafon to revere, as well as the judgment of thofe who were with him ; and, on this account, I cannot help feeling myfelf called on to explain the motives' which induced Captain Cook to place no dependance on the arguments, now addilced by M, Le Monier, in fupport of his fuppofition ; and which, M. Le Monier muft- know, were not unattended to, at that time, from what uie Captain has faid, p. 236.. Vol. II. of his Account of the Voyage. And it may be proper to obferve here, that what fell from Captain Cook., on this fubjeft, was to fhew that this circumftance was then attended to, and not to throw blame on M. Bouvety for whofe memory and- abilities Captain Cook entertained great refpedl : nor is it incompatible with the utmoft refpc£t, for a man to have a favourable opinion of his ow.i labours ; or to endeavour to fliew why he thinks the difagreement between them and thofe of another perfon, , when there is one, does not arife from an error committed by himfelf. There could, , therefore, be no occafion for M. Le Monier to exprefs himfelf as he has done ia fcveral parts of his fecond Memoir. The fubftance of//. Le Monier's argument is this. In 17 39, when M. Bouvet^i- difcovery is fuppofed to have been made, the methods for determining the longitude of a Ihipat fea were very defective ; and, of courfe, the longitude of any land which happened accidentally to be feen by one, was equally uncertain. On a prefumption- that this was the cafe with refpedl to Cape Circumcifion, A'f, Le Monier enquires inta the quantity of the variation of the magnetic needle, obfervcd by M. Bouvet at that place, and alfo into obfervations of the fame kind, made at other places in the neighbourhood of it, about the fame time, as well as both before and fince. And by comparing thefc obfervations together, he concludes, that at the time when Captain Cook wa* iflt IXl tin INTRODUCTION. two hemifphcres. But however plaufible this theory may fe€m, at firft fight, experience has abundantly dete«5led its fallacy. in thefe feas, the variation of the needle at Cape Circumcifion muft have been lo" Wefterly : whereas, in the moft Weftcrly point of Captain Cooic's tra£^, where he was fufficiently near the parallel of 54.° South, to Jiave feen land fituateil in it, the variation was 1 3" j Welterly. This difference of 3" |, in the variation, anfwers to about 7° of longitude, in this part of the parallel of 54° South : and by fo much did Captain Cook fall in with this parallel to the Eaftward of what he ought to have done to fee the lar>d in queftion. " Hence (M. Le Monier infers), that it is not fiirpriz- " ing the Britifli navigator fhould not find Cape Circumcifion under a meridian " wliich is 2S' k to the Eaftward of Ferro, when it is really fituated under a meridian " which is but 21"! to the Eaftward of it." In replying to thefe allegations, I (hall, firft, (hew, that, granting the depend- ence which M. Le Monier fuppofes may be placed on obfervations of the variation made at fca, he has ftated the quantity of the variation, obferved on board the Refolu- ~ tion, very erroneoufly. Secondly, I fhall prove, beyond contradidion, that obfervations of the variation, made at fea, cannot be depended on, for the purpofes to which Jkf. Le Monier has ap- plied them. And, laftly, that no material error had crept into M. Bouvet's reckoning ; but thivt if any error did exift, it muft have been of a contrary nature to that which AI. Le Mo- nier fuppofes. That M. Le Monier has not given altogether a true reprefentation of the matter, will appear from hence. On the i6th of February, at noon *, the Refolution Was in latitude 54" 31 1 South, which is fufficiently near the parallel of 54" South, to fee high land, the Northern extremity of which lies to the Southward of that parallel ; and at that time we were in 6° Eaft of Greenwich, or 23^3 Eaft of the ifland of Ferro : that is, 4" j lefs than is afligned for our fituation by M. Le Monier. On the evening of the fame day, the (hip being in latitude 54' 24', and longitude 6° 30', or a4» i Eaft of Ferro, the variation was no more than 12° 7 Weft, which alfo is near a degree and half lefs than M, Le Monier fays it was, when we firft arrived in a proper* parallel for feeing Cape Circumcifion. It is true, the next morning, in latitude 54" 2ii' South, Jongitude 8" 6' Eaft, we had 13" 42' Weft variation ; but this was after we had run more than two degrees within fight of the parallel of 54° South. It is, moreover, highly probable, that both thefe variations were too great ; for, on the fjth, in the evening, latitude 54° 25' South, and longitude 9° 20' Eaft j that is, i»i more 11 ■ ^ - . . . ,. . .^ ^ • I here go by the dates in " The Original Aftronomical Obfervations," printed by of- der of the Board of Longitude j which, a(ter the 14th of February 1775, differ one day ft-om Captain Cook's date.. INTRODUCTION, fallacy. In confequence of Captain Cook's voyage, now under cc afideration, we have a thorough knowledge of the flate more to the Eailward, asd after we had run 3* 4 on the parallel we were then on, the^ variation was no more than 13° 16' Weft. It is alfo worthy of remark, tha^ on the J4th, in the evening, latitude 56° 141' South, and longitude 4° 50' £aft, which is but 1° 10' to the Weftward of the point, where the Rsfolution came firft into A proper fituation to fee land, fituated in the parallel of 54° South, the variation obferved was no more than 6" 50' Weft. And we may further add, that on the ift of March, 1774, the Adventure had no more than 12° J Weft variation, though fhe was then • confiderably both to the Northward and Eaftward of our fituation on the lyth of Fe- bruary in the morning, on both which accounts the variation ought to have bcca greater, inftead of a whole degree lefs. . From all thefe circumftances, there can be little doubt but that the two variations, obferved by us on the 16th and 17th of Fe- bruary, were too great ; or that the variation, at the point where the Refolution firft came fufEciently near the parallel of 54" South, to fee land, the Northern extremity of which is fituated in that parallel, could not be more than 1 1° i- Weft, inftead of • 13'i, as M. LeMonier has reprefented it. Under this head of enquiry I mayalfo'obferve, that although the Refolution was too • much to the Southward of the parallel of 54° South, when fhc crofled the meridian • which is 21° f to the Eaftward of Ferro; that is, 3"! Eaft of Greenwich, the longi- tude which M. Le 3/a«;Vr afiigns for Cape Circumcifion, to fee if it had been in that " fituation ; yet her confort, the Adventure, was for feveral degrees on erch fide of thnt meridian ; and efpecially when flie had 10" { of Weft variation, full as near to the pa- rallel of 54° South, as AI. Bouvet was to the land when he faw it * : and on tlie day that file actually pafled that meriJian, had fine ciCar weather f . Hence, therefore, granting M. Le Monier his own arguments, which, however, I have proved to be cironcous ; and that obfervations made at fea, for the variation of the conipafs, may be depended on for the purpofe of finding fhe longitude, it is utterly impofiiblc that both the Refolution and Adventure could have pafled Cape Circumcifion without-., feeing it. But I ftiall now ftiew, that thefe obfervations are liable to a much greater •: error than the whole quantity, fo vigoroufly infiftcd on by this gentleman. I will not h re run the rifle of incurring M. Le A'fenier's difpleafure, by calling the - accuracy of M. Biuvet's obfervations in queftion ; but will admit every thing that he himfclf can think due to the inftruments and obfervations of that deferving navigator. It is enough for my argument;, and it is but too evident, from the obfervations them- • ftlvcs, that ours were by no means capable of determining the variation to fo fmall t* . quantity • * See The Original Aftronomical Obfirvations, p, 185. and Bouvet's Voyage, publifticd.. by Mr. Dalrymple, p. 4, and n. f See the Obfervations, p. 218.. » >. xxtr INTRODUCTION. Hate of the Southern hemifphere, and can pronounce with certainty, that the equilibrium of the globe is effeiflually prefervr^d, •quantity at that which M. Lt Mm'ttr refts his whole caufe upon ; and if fo, his argu- -tnents, which depend wholly on a Aippofltion, that not only they, but M. Btuvtt'i alfo, were capable of determining it with the utmoft exadlnefs, muft Call to the ground. I ft. It appears, from various inftances, that the variations obferved by the fame .compafs would difFcr 3° to 5% 6", and fometiines even 10% from no other caufe what- ever, but putting the fliip's head a contrary way *. ad. That the fame compafs, in 'the fame fituation in every rcfpcft, within a few >miles, but at two different times of the fame day, would give variations differing front •one another, 3°, 4', 5", 6°, and even f f. 3d, That the fame compafs, on the fame day, and in the hands of the fame obferver, ■will give variations differing from one another by 5% on board the fame fliip, when under fail, and when at anchor in a road-flead %• 4th, Compafles, made by the fame artift, at the fame time and place, but on board different (hips, differed 3", 4°, and even 5" in the variation §. 5th, The fame Compaffes, on board the fame fhip, and within a few miles of the iamc fituation, but at different times of our being there, gave variations differing by 4° and 5% or upwards ||. ^th. Different * Seethe Original Aftronaraical Obfervations, made in the fecond Voyage, March 11, »773. P- 372- January 24, 1774, p. 375. and July 28, p. 378. f Obfervations in theil'cond Voyage, February 2, 1773, p. 371. and January 19, 1775, p. 382. Alfo Obfervations in laft Voyage, July 17, 1776, p. 179. Aiigull 30, p. (8i. Ja- nuary 24, I777» p. 192. and September 15, 1778, p. 205. X Aftronomical obfervation'j of fecond Voyage, July 14, 1775, P- 3^S' § Compare the Aflronomical Obfervations, made in the fecond Voyage, Aiiguft ?., ando, and September q, 1772, p. 181. with thofe of the iime dntes, p. 369. Thnfe of I,inu:irv J I, and 14, and February 7, 1771, p. 182, with thofe of the faiiie dates, p. -7,-1. Alfo AlliPnot^ucal Oi)fervations, made in the h'.rt Voyage, of ]3ccembcr 27, 177O, p. igi. Fe- bruary 22, 1778, p. 201. May 5, and 8, p. ica. July 9, and 84, 1-79, p. 209. and January 16, i7iJo, p. 2-ii, with thcfe of the fame daces, ,aud 298. p. ;9I, 2-J-„ 294, 2f; II Compare Aftror.omical Obfervations, made in the fecond Vovacf. February 10, .p. 37v «■''*» Obfer'ations of December fi, 1774, p. 381. Alfo bbfeivai.ms, nude ^n ibeJallVoyng , M y 3, and June 18, 1779, p. 208. INTRODUCTION. preferved, though the proportion of fea acT:ually failed through, leaves no fufficient fpace for the correfponding ^ mafs 6th, Different compaflTes, at the fame time, on boarJ the fame ftilp, and in every refpedl under the fame circumftanccs, will give variations differing from one another, 3% 4% 5°, and 6' ♦. Thefe differences, feveral of which happened very near the place in qucflion, are all of them at leaft equal to, mod of them much greater, and fome of them double that which M. Lt Monttr founds his argument on, even accord'""; to his own account of it, which I have already (hewn is by no means admifliblc, anu, therefore, totally invali- date it. To allege that the inftruments made ufe of in Captain Cook's two voyages were bad, or that the obfervers were not expert in the ufe of them, will anfwer no purpofe : they are the inftruments and obfervers which M, Le Monier's argument muft reft on ; and, therefore, let thofc of the French, or any other navigator, have been ever fo much bctter'than thcyjwere (which few will be hardy enough to affert, and fewer ftill found weak enough to believe), it will avail nothing to the point in difpute, which muft evident'y fall to the ground, if the obfervations made for finding the varia- tion in Captain Cook's voyage are not fufficient to fupport it. What then muft be- come of it, if M. Botivet's obfervations, of this kind, were liable to an equal, or a greater error ? which, without any reafonable caufe for offence, we might fuppolc they were. It is not neceffary to account for thefe differences in the obferved variations in this place, nor yet to point out the reafons why fuch anomalies have not been noticed in obfervations of this kind before. I fhall, however, remark, that I have hinted at fome of the caufes in my introduflion to the obfervations which were made in Captain Cook's fccond voyage ; and many others will readily offer themfelves to perfons who have had much pradlice in making thefe obfervations, and who have attentively co i- fidercd the principles on which the inftruments are conftrudled, and the manner in wiiich they are fabricated. Nor is it at all furprifing, that the errors to which the inftru- ments and obfervations of this kind are liable, ftiould not have been difcoN crai before, fince no navigators before us ever gave the fame opportunity, by multiplying their obfervations, and making them under fuch a variety of circumftanccs as we did. Having now fully (hewn, that the circumftanccs, brought forward by M. Le Mo- tiier, in fupport of his argument, are neither fuch as can be depended on, nor yet fairly XXV • Obfervations made in the fecond Voyage, February 2, 1773, p. 371. March r8, p. '^-2. and January 24, 177+, p. 375. See alfo Obfervations made laft Voyage, Ai'[;ull 18, 1776, p. iSo. Oftober 7, and 14, p. 189, and 190. December 12, p. ibid. January J4, 1777, p. 192. March 10, p. 193. July 9, r.iid 17, 1779, ?• 209. January 16, I7!'c, p. 21. March 24, p. 213. and May 19, p. 214. Vol. I, 4 xxvi INTRODUCTION. mafs of hnd, which, on fpeculative arguments had been maintained to be nccelTary*. • • If fjirly rcprefcnted, I fliall next attempt to Hemonflrate, that it is utterly improbable M. Bouvct coiilil be out, in his account of longitude, fo much as is here fuppofcd, in the (hort run which had been made from the ifland of St. Catherine, the place they took their departure from : on the contrary, that there is fufficient reafon to believe the error, of whatever magnitude it might be, was of a different nature from that contended for, and that the two fliips, iiiflcad of being to the Weftward of their ac- count of longitude, were actually to the Kaftward of it. For, according to their Jour- nals, extradlcd from the archives of the French Eaft-India Company, by M. D'ytprts, printed under his infpe6tion, and publiflicd by Mr. Dalrymple, F. R. S. amongd other voyages made for the purpofe of examining the Southern parts of the Atlantic Ocean, the longitude, according to the Eagle's run from St. Catherine's, was 26° 27V and according to the Mary's, 26" 20' Eaft of TeneriiF; that is, 9° 57', and 9° 50' Eaft of Greenwich, or 27" 43', and 27° 36' Eaft of Ferro. But the Mary, which went to the Cape of Good Hope, made 7° 13' Eaft longitude from the land in queftion, to that place. Confequently the Cape of Good Hope being in longitude 18' 23' Eaft of Greenwich, Cape Circumcifion will be in 11° 10' Eaft of Green- wich, or 1° 20' more to the Eaftward than the run by the fame fhip from the ifland of St. Catherine's makes it. Again, the Eagle made the difference of longitude be- tween Cape Circumcifion, and the ifland of Rodrigues, 49" 44' ; and by the obferva- tions of M. Pi-^re, this ifland is in 62° 50' of Eaft longitude from Greenwich: Cape Circumcifion is therefore in 13" 6' Eaft of Grcciiwich, or 2° 9' more to the Eaftward than by the Eagle's run from St. Catherine's. Hence, therefore, as the longitude of this land, refulting from acomparifon of that fhewn by each of the ftiips, on their making land at places where the longitude is exceedingly well determined, is greater than that which refults frcm their run from St. Catherine's, the longitude of which is not known with certainty within feveral degrees, we may infer, with great fafety, that whatever the quantity of M. Bouvet's error might be, when he is fuppofed to have feen Cape Circumcifion, it mi ft have been in defect, and not in excefs, as Af. Lt Minitr fuppofes it. Christ's Hospital, April 20, 1784. W. WALES. * The judgment of the ingenious Author of Recherche: fur les yfmiricai'ns, on this ijueftion, fcems to be very deferving of a place here : " Qii'on calcule, comme on *' voudra, on fera toui'jurs contraint d'avouer, qu'il y a une plus grande portion de *' continent fituee dins la latitude feptentrionale, que dans la latitude auftrale. ** Ce'ft foil mal a-propos, qu'on a foutenu que cette repartition inegale ne fauroit •♦ exifter, fous pretexte que le globa perdroit fon equilibre, faute d'un contrepoids fuf- « fifant. 4 INTRODUCTION. zxvu If former navigators have added more land to the known globe than Captain Cook, to him, at lead, was refervcd the honour of being foremoft in difclofing to us the extent of fea that covers its furfacc. His own fummary view of the tranfadlions of this voyage, will be a proper conclufion to thefe remarks: " I had now made the circuit of the * Southern Ocean in a high latitude, and travcrfed it in ' fuch a manner as to leave not the lead room fop there ' being a continent, unlcfs near the pole, and out of the * reach of navigation. By twice vifiting the Tropical Sea, < I had not only fettled the fituation of fome old difcove- * ries, but made there many new ones, and left, I conceive, ' very little to be done, even in that part. Thus I flatter * myfelf, that the intention of the voyage has, in every rc- ' fped, been fully anfwered ; the Southern hemifpherc * fufficiently explored -, and a final end put to the fearching ' after a Southern continent, which has, at times, engroflfed the attention of fome of the Maritime Powers for near « two centuries paft, and been a favourite theory amongft ' the geographers of all ages*." Thus far, therefore, the voyages to difclofe new tracks of navigation, and to reform old defefts ift geography, ap- pear to have been profccuted with a fatisfacflory (hare of fuc- cefs. A perufal of the foregoing fummary of what had been done, will enable every one to judge what was lall *' fifant au pole meridionale. II eft vrai qii'un pied cube d'eau falJe nc pefc pas aii- *' ta!it qu'un pied cube de terrc ; mais on auroit du reflechir, qu'il pcut y avoir (bus «« Toccan dcs lits & des couches de matiercs, dont la pefanteur fpiicifique varie a " I'infmi, &que le pcu de profondeur d'une mcr, verfec fur une grande furfacc, con- «' trebalance les endroits oii il y a moins de mcr, mais oii die cit plub profondc." Recherches Philofophiques, Tom. ii. p. 375. * Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 239. d 2 wantmg xxviii INTRODUCTION. wanting to complete the great plan of difcovery. The Souihcrn hcmifphere had, indeed, been repeatedly vifited, and its utmoft accedible extremities been lurveyed. But much uncertainty, and, of courfe, great variety of opinion, fubfifted, as to the navigable extremities of our own hemi- fpherc; particularly, as to the exiftence, or, at lead, as to * the pracfticability of a Northern paflage between the Atlan- tic and 1 acific Oceans, cither by failing Eaftward, round Afia, or Weftward, round North America. It was obvious, that if fuch a paflTagc could be ciTedled, voyages to Japan and China, and, indeed, to the Eaft Indies in general, would be much (hortcned; and confequently becon e more profitable, than by making the tedious circuit of the Cape of Good Hope. Accordingly, it became a *^a- vourite objeft of the Englifli to effectuate this, above two centuries ago j and (to fay nothing of Cabot's original at- tempt, in 1497, which ended in the difcovery of Newfound- land, and the Labradorc coaft) from Frobi(her*s fir ft voyage to find a Weftern paffagc, in 1576, to thofe of James and of Fox, in 163 1, repeated trials had been made by our enter- prizing adventurers. But though farther knowledge of the Northern extent ©f America was obtained in the courfe of thefe voyages, by the difcovery of Hudfon's and Baffin's Bays, the wiflied-for paflage, on that fide, into the Pacific Ocean, was ftill unattained. Our countrymen, and the Dutch, were equally unfuccefsful, in various attempts, to find this palFage in jm Eaflern direction. Wood's failure, in 1676, fecms to have clofcd the long lift of unfor- tunate Northern expeditions in that century ; and the difco- ' very, if not abfolutcly defpaired of, by having been fo often mifled, ceafcd, for many years, to be fought for, . - ' • ' • ■ . * Mr. ill INTRODUCTION. Mr. Dobbs, a warm advocate for the probability of a North Weft paflagc through Hudfons Bay, in our own time, once more r'icallcd the attention of this country to that un- dertaking; and, by his adive zeal, and pcrfevering foHci- taiion, renewed the fpirit of difcovcry. Hut it was renewed in vain. f*or Captain Middleton, fent out by Government in 1741, and Captains Smith and Moore, by a private fociety, in 1746, though encouraged by an aiftof I'arHament pafTed in the preceding year, that annexed a reward of twenty thoufand pounds to the difcovcry of a pafTage, returned from Hudfon's Bay with reports of their proceedings, that left the accomplilhmcnt of tins favourite objc(5t at as great a diftance as ever. When refearches of this kind, no longer left to the foli- citation of an individual, or to the fubfcriptions of private adventurers, became cherifiied by the Royal attention, in the prefent reign, and warmly promoted by the Minifter at the head of the naval department, it was impofliblc, while fo much was done toward exploring the remoteft corners of the Southern hcmifphere, that the Northern pafTage fhould not be attempted. Accordingly, while Captain Cook was profecuting his voyage toward the South Pole, in 1773, Lord Mulgrave failed with two fliips, to cJetcrmine how far na- •uigation ivas praSlicable toward the North Pole. And though his Lordlhip met with the fame inluperablc bar to his pro- grefs, which former navigators had experienced % the hopes of opening a communication between the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, by a Northerly courfe, were not abandoned; ♦ See the hiftory of former attempts to fail toward the North Pole, in the Intro- dufion to Lord Mulgrave's Journ;'!, Mr. Barrington has collecled fever::! in- ftaaccs of (hips advancing to very high latitudes. Sec his Mifcdlunics, p. 1—124. 3 and x:ciz XXX INTRODUCTION. and a voyage for that purpofe, was ordered to be under- taken. The operations propofcd to be purfued, were fo new, fo cxtenfive, and fo various, that the Ikill and experience of Captain Cook, it was thought, would be requilite to conducft them. Without being hable to any charge of want of zeal for the pubUc fervice, he might have pafled the reft of his days in the command to which he had been appointed in Greenwich Hofpital, there to enjoy the fame he had dearly earned in two circumnavigations of the world. But he cheerfully rclinquiflied this honourable ftation at home; and, happy that the Earl of Sandwich had not cafl: his eye upon any other Commander, engaged in the conduft of the ex- pedition, the hiftory of which is prefented to the Public in thefe Volumes ; an expedition that would expofe him to the toils and perils of a third circumnavigation, by a track hitherto unattempted. Every former navigator round the globe had made his paflage home to Europe by the Cape of Good Hope ; the arduous tafk was now ailigned to Cap- tain Cook, of attempting it, by reaching the high Norchern latitudes between Afia and America. So that the ufual plan of difcovery was reverfed ; and, inftead of a paflage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, one from the latter into the former was to be tried. For it was wifely forefeen, that whatever openings or inlets there might be on the Eaft fide of America, which lie in a dirediion which could give any hopes of a paflage, the ultimate fuccefs of it would ftill de- pend upon there being an open fea between the Weft fide of that continent, and the extremities of Afia. Captain Cook, therefore, was ordered to proceed into the Pacific Ocean through the chain of his new illands in the Southern tropic, 'j^ , , « ', , and INTRODUCTIONr and having cro/Tcd the equator into its Northern Parts, thei> to hold fuch a courfe as might probably fix many intcreft- ing points in geography, and produce intermediate difco- veries, in his progrefs Northward to the principal fcene of his operations. But the plan of the voyage, and the various objecHis it embrut-cu, will bed appear from the Inftrudions under which Captain Cook failed ; andjhe infcrtion of them here, will convey fuch authentic information, as may enable the Reader to judge with precifion how far they have been car- ried into execution* XXXI By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord High Admiral of Great Britain and Ireland, &c. SECRET INSTRUCTIONS for Captain James Cook, Commander of his Majefty's Sloop the Resolution. T/f^HEREAS the Earl of Sandwich has Jignified to us his Majeftfs ^'^ pleaftire, that an attempt fljoidd be made to find out a Northern pajfage byfea from thi? Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean ; and whereas we have, in pur- finance thereof, caiifed his Majefty's flocps Refiolution and Difcovery to be fitted, in all refipeUs, proper to proceed upon a voyage for the purpofie ahove-mentii,nedy and, from the experience we have had of your abilities and good conduct in your late voyages, have thought fit to intrtift you with the con- du£f of the prefent intended voyage, and with that view appointed you to com- mand thefirft mentioned fioop, and d^re£fcd Captain Gierke, who commands the other, to follow your orders for his further proceedings-, Tou are hereby re- quired and direiled to proceed with the Jaid two floops dire£lly to the Cape of Good Hope, unlefs you fljall judge it neceffaiy to ftop at Madeira, the Cape de Verd, or Canary Iflands, to take in wine for the ufe of their companies ; in which cafe you are at liberty to do fo, taking care to remain '.here no longer them may be necejfary for that purpcje. Oh I I; xxxii INTRODUCTION. 0)1 your arrival ct the Cape of Good Hcfe, yen are to refrcjh thejloofs cont- ' fifties, and to caufe thejioops to be/upplied with as much proviftons and water as they can conveniently Jtow. . . " Tou are, ifpojjible, to leave the Cape of Good Hope by the end of O£fober, cr the beginning of November next, and proceed to the Southward in fearch of Jome iflandsfaid to have been lately Jecn by the French, in the latitude 0/48° o' South, and about the meridian of Mauritius. In cafe you find thofe ijlands, you are to examine them thoroughly for a good harbour j and upon difcovering one, make tr.u' necejfary obfervations to facilitate the finding it again -, as a good fort, in that fttuation, may hereafter prove very ufeful, although it pould afford little or nothing more than flielter, wood, and water. Tou are noty however, to fpcnd too jnuch time in looking cut for thofe ifiands, or in the exa- niination of them, if found, hut proceed to Otabeite, or the Society Ifles (touching at New Zealand in your way thither, if you fhould judge it necejfary and convenient), and taking care to arrive there time enough to admit of your giving the fioops companies the refrefnncnt they may fiand in need of, before ^ou profecute the farther objeff of thefc inflruSlions. Upon your arrival at Otahcite, or the Society Iflcs, you are to land Omiab at Juch of them as he may chcofe, and to leave him there. 2'ou are to dijlribute among the Chiefs of thofe ifiands fuch pari of the pre ^ Jents with which you have been fuppUed, as you fhall judge proper, referving the remainder to dijlribute among the natives of the countries you may Jif cover in the Northern Hemifphere : v^nd having refrcfhed the people belonging to the Jlocps under your command, and taken on board fuch wood and water as they may refpeStively fland in need of, you are to leave thofe ifiands in the beginning of February, or fooner if you fliall judge it necejfary, and then proceed in as direil a courfe as you can to the coafl of New Albion, endeavouring to fall in with it in the latitude cf^^° o' North ; and taking care, in your way thither, not to lofe any time in fearch of new lands, or to flop at any yen may fall in with, unlefs you find it necejfary to recruit your wood and water. Ton are alfo, in your way thither, firiElly enjoined not to touch upon am part of the SpanifJj dominions en the Weftern continent of America, unlefs driven thith'.r by feme unavoidable accident; in which cafe you are to ft ay no longer there than /?:all be abfolntely necejfary, and to be very careful not to give any umbrage or offence to any of the inhabitants or fubjetfs of his Catholic Majcfty. And if, in your farther progrefs to the Northward, as hereafter direHed, you find any fubje^s of any European Prince or State upon any part of the coafl you may think proper to vifit, you are not to difturb them, or give them m INTRODUCTION. XXXIll tbem anyjuji caufe of offence, but, on the contrary, to treat them with civil'' 'y andfriendjhip. Upon your arrival on the coaft of New Albion, you are to put into thefrji convenient port to recruit your wood and water, and procure refrejhments, and then to proceed Northward along the coaft, as far as the latitude of 6^°, or farther, if you are not obftruSled by lands or ice; taking care not to Iqfe any time in exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any other account, until you get into the before-mentioned latitude of 6^°, where we could wijh you to arrive in the month of June next. When you get that length, you are very carefully to fearch for, and to explore, fuch rivers or inlets as may appear to be of a con- ftderable extent, and pointing towards Hudfon's or Baffin's Bays -, and if, from your own obfervations, or from any information you may receive from the natives ("who, there is reafon to believe, are the fame race of people, andfpeak the fame language, of which you are furniflaed with a Vocabulary, as the Ef- quimaux), there floall appear to be a certainty, or even a probability, of a water pajage into the afore-mentioned buys, or either of them, you are, in fuch cafe, to ufe your utmoft endeavours to pafs through with one or both of the floops, unlefs you Jhall be of opinion that the paffage may be effelfed with more cer-tainty, or with greater probability, by fmaller vejfels ; in which cafe you are tofet up the frames of one or both the fmall veffels with which you are provided, and, when they are put together, and are properly fitted, ftored, and viSfualled, you are to difpatch one or both of them, under the care of pro- per officers, with afufficient number of petty officers, men and boats, in order to attempt the faid paffage ; with fuch htftruSiions for their rejoining you, if they fhould fail, or for their farther proceedings, if they jhould fucceed in the attempt, as you Jhall judge moft proper. But, neverthelefs, if you Jhall find it more eligible to purfue any other meafures than thofe above pointed out, in or- der to make a difcovery of the before-mentioned paffage (if any fuch there be), you are at liberty, and we leave it to your difcretion, to purfue fuch meafures accordingly. In cafe you Jhall be fatisfied that there is no paffage through to the ahove-^ .nentioned bays, fufficient for thepurpofes of navigation, you are, at the proper j'eafon of the year, to repair to the port of St. Peter and St. Paul in Kamtf- chatka, or wherever elfe you Jhall judge more proper, in order to refrejh your people and pafs the Winter ; and, in the Spring of the enfuirig year 1778, to .proceed from thence to the Northward, as far as, in your prudence, yon may think proper, in further fearch if a North Raft, or North Weft paffage, from the Pacific Ocean into the Atlantic Ocean, or the North Sea : and if, from Vol, I. e your xxxiv INTRODUCTION. ycur own objervattotty or any information ycu may receive, there Jhall appear to be a probability ofjuch pajfage, ycu are to proceed as above direHed: and, having di/coveredjttch pajfage, or failed in the at tempts make the bcfl of your way back to England, by fuch route as you may think beji for the improvement * of geography and navigation ; repairing to Spitbead with both floops, where they are to remain till further order. At whatever places you may touch in the courfe of your voyage, where accu- rate obfervations of the nature hereafter mentioned have not already been made, you are, as far as your time will allow, very carefully to objerve the true fit u- ation of fuch places, both in latitude and longitude; the variation of the needle -, bearings of head-lands ; height, direction, and courfe of the tides and currents; depths and foundings of the fea; fhoals, rocks, (^c. ; and alfo to fvrvey, make charts, and take views of fuch bays, harbours, and dijfferent parts of the coajl, and to make fuch notations thereon, as may be ufeful either to navigation or commerce. You are alfo carefully to obferve the nature of the foil, and the produce thereof ; the animals and fowls that inhabit or frequent it; the fifhes that are to be found in the rivers or upon the coajl, and in what plenty ; and. In cafe there are any peculiar to fuch places, to defcribe them as. minutely, and to make as accurate drawings of them, as you cant and, if you find any metals, minerals, or valuable Jiones, or any extraneous fojjils, you are to bring home fpecimens of each ; as alfo of the feeds of fuch trees, fhrubs, plants, fruits, and grains, peculiar to thofe places, as you may be able to col- - leSi, and to tranfmit them tor our Secretary, that proper examination and expe- riments may be made of them. Tou are like wife to obferve the genius, temper, difpofition, and number of the natives and inhabitants, where ytu find any.; and to endeavour, by all proper means, to cultivate a friendjhip with them ; making them prefents of fuch trinkets as you may have on board,, and they may like befl; inviting them to traffic ; and fhewing thern every kind of civility and regard; but taking care, never thelefs, not to fuffer yourfelf to be furprized by them, but to be always on your guard againft any accidents. You are alfo, with the confent of the natives, to takepoffeffion, in the name $f the King of Great Britain, of convenient fituations in fuch countries as you may difcover, that have not already, been difcovered or vifited by any other ? European power ; and to dijlribute among the inhabitants fuch things as. will remain as traces and tefiimcnies of your having been there; but if you find the iountriesfo difcovered are uninhabited, you are to take poffeffion of them for his Majejly, byfetting up proper marks and infer ipt ions, as firfi difcover ers and pofejbrs, '■ But n\ si INTRODUCTION, But forafmucb as, in undertakings of this nature, Jeveral emergencies may ari/e not to be forejeen, and therefore not particularly to be provided for by infiruHions before-hand; you are, in all fucb cafes, to proceed as you Jhall judge mofi advantageous to thefervice on which you are employed. You are, by all opportunities , to fend to our Secretary, for our information, accounts of your proceedings, and copies of (he furveys and drawings you fljall have made; and upon your arrival in England, you are immediately to repair to this office, in order to lay before us a full account of your proceedings in the whole courfe of your voyage; taking care, lefore you leave the floop, to demand from the officers and petty officers, the log-books and journals they may have kept, and tofeal them up for our infpelftlon; and enjoining them, and the whole crew, not to divulge where they have been, until they Jhall have permiffionfo to do: and you are to di'e£t Crptuin Clerk to do the fame, with refpeSl to the officers, petty officer's, and crew of the Difc every. If any accident Jhould happen to the Refolution in the courfe of the voyage,, fo as to difable her from proceeding any farther, you are, in fucb cafe, to re- move yourf elf and her crew into the Difcovery, and to profecute your voyage in her; her Commander being hereby ftriSlly required to receive you on biard, and to obey your orders, the fame, in every refpe5l, as when you were aSlually on board the Refolution : And, in cafe of your inability, by ftcknefs or other- wife, to carry thefe InJlruSlions ,nto execution, you are to be carcjul to leave them with the next officer in command, who is hereby required .0 execute them in the beji manner he can. Given under our hands the 6th day of July, 1776, SANDPFICH. C. SPENCER. H. PALLISER, By command of their Lordfhips, PH. STEPHENS. XXXV Bcfides ordering Captain Cook to fail on this important voyage, Government, in earned about the objeft of it, adopted a meafure, which, while it could not but have a e 2 powerful xxxvi INTRODUCTION. , powerful operation en the crews of the Refolution and Dif- covery, by adding the motives of intereft, to the obligations of duty ; at the fame time encouraged all his Majefty's fub- je<5ts to engage in attempts toward the propofed difcovery. By the adt of parliament, pafled in 1745 *, a reward of twenty thoufand pounds had been held out. But it had been held out only to the fhips belonging to any of his Majejiy*s fubjeSls^ exclufive of his Majefty*s own fliips. The aft had a flill more capital defeft. It held out this reward only to fuch fliips as fliould difcover a paflage through HudforCs Bay ; and, as we fhall foon take occafion to explain, it was, by this lime, pretty certain, that no fuch paffage exifted within thofe limits. £fie<5tual care was taken to remedy both thefe defers, by paffing a new law; which, after reciting the provifions of the former, proceeds as follows: *' And ** whereas many advantages, both to commerce and fcience, •• may be alfo expefted from the difcovery of any Northern " poff^'g* for veflels by fea, between the Atlantic and Pacific " Oceans— be it enafted. That if any (hip belonging to any ** of his Majefty's fubjefts, or to his Majejiy^ fliall find out, *' and fail through, any paflage by fea, between the Atlan- " tic and Pacific Oceans, in any dire^ion, or parallel of the " Northern hemifphere, to the Northward of the 52' of •* Northern latitude, the owners of fuch fliips, if belong- »' ing to any of his Majefty's fubjefts, or the commander ^ offi- ** cers^ and feamen^ of fuch Jhip belonging to his Majefiy^ fliall re- »• ceive, as a reward for fuch difcovery, the fum of twenty " thoufand poundsi •« And whereas fliips employed, both in the Spitzbergen " Seas, and in Davis*s Straits, have frequent opportunities See the Statutes at Large, 18 George II. chap. 17. *' of INTROBUCTION. zxxvu of •* of approaching the North Pole, though they have not •• lime, during the courfe of one furamer, to penetrate into «* the Pacific Ocean : an That if any ftiip fliall approach to within l* " of the North Pole, the owner, &c. or commander, &c. *• fo approaching, fhall receive* as a reward for fuch firfl; " approach, the fum of fiVe thoufand pounds *." That nothing might be omitted that could facilitate the fuccefs of Captain Cook's expedition, fome time before he failed, in the beginning of the fummer of 1776, Lieutenant Pickerfgill, appointed Commander of his Majefty's arnjed brig the Lion, was ordered «• to proceed to Davis's Straits, « for the protedion of the Britilh whale fifhers ;'* and that firft obJ€6t being fecured, " he was then required and di- •* redled to proceed up Bafi^n's Bay, and explore the coafts " thereof, as far as in his judgment rhe fame could be done *« without apparent rifk, taking cars to leave the above ♦• mentioned Bay fo timely, as to fecure his return to Eng- " land in the fall of the year -," and it was farther enjoined to him, " to make nautical remarks of every kind, and to ** employ Mr. Lane (Matter of the veflel under his com> ♦* mand) in furveying, making charts, and taking views of •* the feveral bays, harbours, and diflTerent parts of the coafts «* which he might vifit, and in making fuch notations thereoa " as might be ufeful to geography and navigation f.'* • Seethe Statutes at Large, 1776, 16 George III. chap. 6« i From, his MS. Inftru^tions, dated May 14, 1776. Pickerfgill^ xxxvfii INTRODUCTION. Pickerfgill, we fee, was not to attempt the difcovery of the palTage. He was directed to explore the coafls of Baffin's Bay, with a view only to bring back, the fame year, fome information, which might be an ufeful di- redlion toward planning an intended voyage into that bay the enfuing fummer, to try for the difcovery of a paflage on that fide, with a view to cooperate with Captain Cook, who, it was fuppofed (from the tenor of his inftruc- tions) would be trying for this pafTage, about the fame time, from the oppofite fide of America. Pickerfgill, obeying his inftrudtions, at leaft in this in- flance, did return that year j but there were fufficient rea- fons for not fending him out again ; and the command of the next expedition into Baffin's Bay was conferred on Lieu- tenant Young; whofe Inftruc^ions, having an immediate conneiflion with our voyage, are here inferted. ,if,,,*,. i r EXTRACT of INSTRUCTIONS to Lieutenant Young, commanding the Lion armed Veffel, dated 13th March 1777. Rifolution, Difcovtry, JyfT'HEREASy in furjmnce of the King's pleafure, fignified to us by the Earl of Sandwich i his Majejly' s Jloops named in the margin have been Jent out under the command of Captain Cooky in order y during this and the enfuing y ear y to attempt a difcovery of a Northern paffage, by fea, frotn the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean-, and, for that purpofe, to run up as high as the latitude of 6^° North, where it is hoped he will be able to arrive in the month of June next; and there, and as much further to the Northward as in his prudence he Jhall think proper, very carefully to fear ch for and explore fuch rivers or inlets as may appear to be of a conftderable extent, and pointing to Hudfon's or Baffin's Bays, or the North Sea-, and, upon finding any paffage 4 through, INTRODUCTION. xxxiz through, fufficient for the purpofes of navigation, to attempt fucb pajfage with one or both of the floops ; or, if they are judged to be too large, with fmaller vejfels, the frames of which have been Jent out with him for that purpofe : And whereas, in purfuance of his Mtijtfly's further pleajure, ftgnifed as afore- faid, the armed vejfel under your command hath been fitted in order to proceed to Baffin's Bay, with a view to explore the PVeftern parts thereof, and to en- deavour to find a paffage, on that fide, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, and we have thought fit to intruft you with the conduit of that voyage-. You are therefore hereby required and directed to put tofea in the faid armed vejfel, without a moment's Icjs of time, and make the beft of your way into Baffin's Bay, and Jo uje your beft endeavours to exfhre the fp'eftern fljores thereof, as far as in your judgment the fame can be done, without apparent rifque, and to examine fuch confiderable rivers or inlets as you may dijcover; avd, in cafe you find any, through which there may be a probability of pajftng into the Pa- cific Ocean, you are to attempt fuch pajfage; and if you fucceed in the attempt, and fhall be able to repajs it again, Jo as to return to England this year, you are to make the beft of your way to Spithead,_ or the Nore, and retnain there until you receive further order; fending us an account of your arrival and pro- ceedings. But if you ftall fucceed in the attempt, and fhall find the Jeajon too far advanced for you to return the fame way, you are then to look out for the moft convenient place to winter in, and to endeavour to return by the Jaid paj- Jage as early in the next year as the Jeajon will admit, and then ta make the beft of your way to England, as above direiled. In cafe, however, you fljould not find, or fhould be Jatisfied there is net any probability of finding, any Juch pajfage, or, finding it, you fljould not be able tt get through in the vejfel you command, you are then to return to England, as before mentioned, unlejs ycu fhall find any branch cf the Jea leading to the Weftward which you floall judge likely to afford a communication between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and which you fhall not be able to explore in the courje of this year, it being, in that cafe, left to your dijcretion to ft ay the Winter in the moft commodious fituation you can find, in order to purjue the dijcovery next year, if you floall find it advijable Jo to do; and, having dijco- vercdjuchpaffage, or not Jucceeded in the. attempt, you are to make the beft of your way to England, as above dire£fed. > , Ic ll INTRODUCTION. It was natural to hope, that fomething would have been done in one or other, or in both thefe voyages of the Lioni that might have opened our views with regard to the prac- ticability of a paflage from this fide of America. But, un- fortunately, the execution did not anfwer the expectations conceived. Pickerfgill, who had acquired profeflional ex- perience when adling under Captain Cook, juftly merited the cenfurc he received, for improper behaviour when intrufted with command in Davis*s Straits; and the talents of Young, as it afterward appeared, were more adapted to con- tribute to the glory of a vidlory, as Commander of a line of battle fliip, than to add to geographical difcoveries, by encountering mountains of ice, and exploring unknown coafis *. Both Pickerfgill and Young having been ordered to pro- ceed into Baffin's Bay; and Captain Cook being direi5ted not to begin his fearch till he fliould arrive in the latitude of 65', it may not be ins proper to fay fomething here of the reafons which weighed with thofe who planned the voyages, and framed the inftrudions, to carry their views fo far Northward, as the proper fituation, where the paflage, if it exifted at all, was likely to be attempted with fuccefs. It may be alked, Why was Hudfon's Bay neglefted on our fide of America ; and why was not Captain Cook ordered to begin his fearch on its oppofite fide, in much lower lati- * In the Philofophical Tranfaflions, Vol. Ixvili. p. 1057, we have the track of Pickerfgill's voyage, which, probably, may be of ufe to our Greenland fhips, as it contains many obiervations for fixing the longitude and latitudeofthe coafts in Davis's Slraits. But it appears that he never entered Baffin's Bay, the higheft Northern latitude to which he advanced being 68' 14'. As to Young's proceedings, "having failed abfolutely in making any difcovery, it is of lefs confcquence, that no commu- fi'icMon of his journal could be procured. tudes? ii ides? INTRODUCTION. ludes ? Particularly, why not explore tne ftrait leading into the Wcftern fca of John de Fuca, between the latitudes of ^^7° and 48'; the Archipelago of St. Lazarus of Admiral dc Fonte, between 50' and ss" » and the rivers and lakes through which he found a paflage North Eaftw-^rd, till he met with a fhip from Bofton i As to the pretended difcoveries of dc Fuca, the Greek Pilot, or of de Fonte, the Spanifh Admiral, though they have fometimes found their way into fi<5litious maps, or have been warmly contended for by the efpoufcrs of fanciful fyftems j to have din':<5led Captain Cook to fpend any time in tracing them, would have been as wife a meafure as if he had been diredled to trace the fituation of Lilliput or Brob- dignac. The latter are, indeed, confefTedly, mere obje(5ts of imagination ; and the former, deftitute of any fufficient external evidence, bear fo many flriking marks of internal abfurdity, as warrant our pronouncing them to be the fa- bric of impofture. Captain Cook's inftruftions were found- ed on an accurate knowledge of what had been already done, and of what ftill remained to do ; and this knowledge pointed out the inutility of beginning his fcarch for a paf- fage till his arrival in the lathude of Gs''; of which every fair and capable inquirer will be abundantly convinced, by an attention to the following particulars. Middleton, who commrnded the expedition in 1741 and 1742, intoHudfon's Bay, iiad proceeded farther North than any of his predeceflbrs in that navigation. But though, from his former acquaintance with that Bay, to which he had frequently failed in the fervice of the company, he had entertained hopes of finding out a paflage through it into the Pacific Ocean, the obfervations which he was now Vol. L . enabled xll :Llii INTRODUCTION. enabled to make, induced him ta change his opinion ; anrf> on Ills return to England, he made an unfavourable report. Mr. Dobbs, the patron of the entcrprizc, did not acquicfcc in this ; and, fortified in his original idea of the pradlicabi- lity of the palTuge, by the icftimony of fome of Middlcton's oflicers, he appealed to the Public, accufing him of having mifreprcfented fadts, and of having, from interefled mo- tives, in concert with the Hudfon's Bay Company, decided againft the practicability of the pafTage, though the difco- veries of his own voyage had put it within his reach. He had, between the latitude of 6f and 66", found a very confiderable inlet running Weftward, into which he entered with his (hips ; and, '* after repeated trials of tlve tides, and •* endeavours to difcovcr the nature and courfe of the open- " ing, for three weeks fucceflively, he found the flood con- ♦* ftantly to come from the Eaftward, and that it was a large ** river he had got imo," to which he gave the name of Wager River *. The accuracy, or rather the fidelity of this report was de*- nied by Mr. Dobbs, who contended that this opening is a Stra:ty and not a frejh ivater rivers and that Middleton, if he had examined it properly, would have found a pafTage through it to the Weftern American Ocean. The failure of this voyage, therefore, only ferved to furnifh our zeal- ous advocate for the difcovery, with new arguments for at- tempting it once more ; and he had the good fortune, after getting the reward of twenty thoufand pounds eftablifhed by aft of parliament, to prevail upon a fociety of gentle- jpen and merchants to fit out the Dobbs and California ; • See the Abftraft of his Journal^ publi&ed by Mr. Dobbs. which INTRODUCTION. xUii ivrbich (hips, it was hoped, would be able to find their way into the Pacific Ocean, by the very opening which Middle- ton's voyage had pointed out, and which he was beUevcd :o have railVeprefenced. This renovation of hope only produced frefli difappoint- ment. For it is well known, that the voyage of the Dobbs and California, inftcad of confuting, (Irongly confirmed all that Middleton had afTerted. The fuppofcd Strait was found to be nothing more than a freih water river, and its utmoft Weflern navigable boundaries were now afcertained, by ac- curate examination. But though Wager's Strait had thus ilifappointed our hopes, as had alfo done Rankin's Inlet, which was now found to be a clofe Bay; and though other arguments, founded on the fuppofcd courfc of the tides in Hudfon's Bay, appe red to be groundlefs; fuch is our attachment to an opinion oikc adopted, that, even after the unfuccefsful ifTue of the voyage of the Dobbs and California, a paflage through fome other place in that Bay was, by many, confidered as attainable ; and, particularly, Chefter- field's (formerly called Bowden*s) Inlet, lying between lati- tude 63° and 64*, fucceeded Wager's Strait, in the fanguine €xpe(5lations of thofe who remained unconvinced by former difappointments. Mr. Ellis, who was on board the (hips, and who wrote the hiftory of the voyage, holds up this as one of the places where the pafTage may be fought for, upon very rational grounds^ and ivith very good ejfecis *. He alfo mentions Repulfe Bay,. nearly in latitude 67° ; but as to this he fpcaks lefs confidently *, only faying, that by an attempt there, we might probably approach nearer to the difcovery f. He had good.reafon for thus guarding his expreilicm; for • EUis's Voyage, p. 3x8. ■f Ibid. p. 330. f 2 th€ jcliv INTRODUCTION. the committee, who direded this voyage, admitting the impradlicability of effecting a paflage at Repulfe Bay, had refufed allowing the (hij^s to go into it, being fatisfied as to that place *. Setting Repulfe Bay, therefore, afide, within which we have no reafon for believing that any inlet exifts, there remained no part of Hudfon's Bay to be fcarched, but Chefterfield's- Inlet, and a fmall track of coaft between the latitude 62°, and what is called the South Point of Main, which had been left unexplored by the Dobbs and California. But this laft gleam of hope has now difappeared. The averfion of the Hudfon's Bay Company, to contribute any thing to the difcovery of a North Weft pafTage, i- J been loudly reported by Mr. Dobba ; and the. Public feemed to be- lieve that the charge was well fou.ided. But ftill, in juftice to them, it muft be allowed, that, in 1720, they had fent Mefli-s. Knight and Barlow, in a floop on this vc -y difco- very ; but thefe unfortunate people were never more heard of. Mr. Scroggs, who failed in fearch of them, in 1722, only brought back proofs of their fhipwrcc!' but no freflx intelligence about a pafTage, which he was alfo to look for. They alfo fent a floop, and a fliallop, to try for this difco- very, in 1737; but to no purpofe. If obftrudlions were thrown in the way of Captain Middleton, and of the Com- manders of the Dobbs and California, the Governor and Committee of the Hudfon's Bay Company, fmce that time, we muft acknowledge, have made amends for the narrow )? • Account of the Voyage, by the Clerk of the California, Vol. ii. p. 273. Mr. Dobbs himfelf fays, That he thought the pajfage would be impraiikable, or, at leqft^ very difficult, in cafe then was one farthtr North than 67°. AccouiU of Hudfon's Bay, p. 99. • ■ . ' " - prejudices r^ INTRODUCTION. /li .'I prejudices of their predeceilbrs ; and we have it in our power to appeal to fa^ls, which abundantly teftify, that every thing has been done by them, that could be required by the Public, toward perfecting the fcarch for a North Weft paflage. In the year 1761, Captain Chriftoph r failed from Fort Churchill, in the Hoop Churchill ; and his voyage was not quite fruitlefs ; for he failed up Chefterfield's Inlet, through which a pafTage had, by Mr. Ellis*s account of it, been fo generally expe(5led. But when the water turned brackifli, which marked that he was not in a ftrait, but in a river, he returned. To leave no room for a variety of opinion, however, he was ordered to repeat the voyage the enfuing fummer, in the fame floop. and Mr. Norton, in a cutter, was appointed to atten J him. By the favour of the Governor and Com- mittee of the Company, the Journals of Captain Chriftopher, and of Mr. Norton, and Captain Chriftopher's chart of the Inlet, have been readily communicated. From thefe au- thentic documents, it appears that the fcarch and examina- tion of Chefterfield's Inlet was now completed. It was found to end in a frefli water lake, at the diftance of about one hundred and feventy miles from the fea. This lake was found alfo to be about twenty-one leagues long, and from five to ten broad, and to be fompletely clofed up on every fide, except to the Weft, where there was a little rivulet ; to furvey the ftate of which, Mr. Norton and the crew of the cutter having landed, and marched up the country, favv that it foon terminated in three falls, one above another, and not water for a fmall boat over them ; and ridges, moftly dry from fide to fide, for five or fix miles higher. Thus I 4 ,v-i INTRODUCTION. Thus ends Chefterfield's Inlet, and all Mr. Ellis's expoAa- tions of a pafTage through it to the V/eftern Ocean. The , other part of the coaft, from latitude 62°, to the South Point of Main, within which limits hopes were alfo entertained of finding a paflage, have, of late years, been thoroughly- explored. It is here that Piftol Bay is fituated } which the author who has writ laft in this country, on the probability of . a North Wejl pajfage *, fpeaks of as the only remaining part of Hudfon's Bay where this Weftern communication may exift. But this has been alfo examined ; and, on the autho- rity of Captain Chriftopher, we can aflure the Reader, that there is no inlet of any confequence in all that part of the coaft. Nay, he has, in an open boat, failed round the bot- tom of what is called Piftol Bay, and, infteadof a paffagc to a Weftern Sea, found it does not run above. three or four miles inland. Befides thefe voyages by fea, which fatisfy us that we muft not look for a paflfage to the South of 67* of latitude.; we are indebted to the Hudfon's Bay Company, for a jour- ;ney by land, which has thrown much additional light on this matter, by affording what may be called demonftra- tion, how much farther North, at leaiVin fome part of their voyage, fliips muft hold their courfe, before they can pais jfrom one fide of America to the other. The Northern In- dians, who come down to the Company's forts for trade, had brought to the knowledge of our people, the exiftence of a river; which, from copper abounding near it, had got the name of the Copper- viine River. We read much about ♦ Printed for Jeffreys, in 1768. His words are, " There remains then to be . *' fearched for the difcovery of a paflage^ the opening called Piftol Bay, in Hudfon's ^•« Bay." P. 122. ' this .r>. INTRODUCTION. this river in Mr. Dobbs's publications, and he confiders the Indian accounts of it as favourable to his fydem. The Com- pany being defirous of examining the matter with precifion, ordered their Governor of Prince of Wales's Fort, to fend a proper perfon to travel by land, under the efcort of fomc trufty Northern Indians, with orders to proceed to this famous river, to take an accurate furvey of its courfe, and to trace it to the fea, into which it empties itfelf. Mr. Hearne, a young gentleman in their fervice, who, having been an. officer in the Navy, was well qualified to make ob- fervations for fixing the longitude and latitude, and make drawings of the country he fliould pafs through, and of the river which he was to examine, was appointed for this fervice. Accordingly, he fet out from Fort Prince of Wales, on Churchill River, in latitude 58° 50', on the 7th of Decem- ber 1770 J and the whole of his proceedings, from time to time, are faithfully preferved in his written Journal. The publication of this would not be an unacceptable prefent ta the world, as it draws a plain artlefs pi -•; ' -.; .» f where ; 5, INTRODUCTION. where our pcrfcvering Englifli navigator, inftcad of this promifed fairy land, found nothing but barren rocks, fcarcely affording flieher to penguins and fcals ; and dreary feas, and mountains of ice, occupying the iinmenfc fpacc allotted to imaginary paradifes, and the only treafures there to be difcovered, to reward the toil, and to compenfate the dangers of the unavailing fearch. Or, if we carry our refle<5lion3 into the Northern hcmi- fphere, could Mr. Dobbs have made a fingle convert, much lefs could he have been the fuccefsful folicitor of two different expeditions, and have met with encourag^rment from the le- giflature, with regard to his favourite paflixgc through Hud- fon's Bay, if Captain Chriftopher had previoufly explored its coafts, and if Mr. Hcarne had walked over the immenfc con- tinent behind it ? Whether, after Captain Cook's and Captain Gierke's difcoverics on the Weft fide of America, and their report of the ftatc of Beering's Strait, there can be fufficient encouragement to make future attempts lo penetrate into the Pacific Ocean in an/ Northern direction, is a queftion, for the dccifion of which the Public will be indebted to this work. 2. But our voyages will benefit the world, not only by difcouraging future unprofitable fearches, but alfo by Icf- fening the dangers and diftrcffes formerly experienced in thofe feas, which are within the line of commerce and na- vigation, now afVually fubfifting. In how many inflances have the miftakes of former navigators, in fixing the true fituations of important places, been redtified ? What accef- fion to the variation chart ? How many niutical obCerva-ions have been collefted, and are now ready to be coiifulicd, in dire(5ling a fliip's courfe, along rocky fliores, through nar- VoL. I. h V - row Ivii ■"'■?% 1 ' Iviii INTRODUCTION. row flriits, amidft perplexing currents, and dangerous ihoals? But, above all, what numbers of new bays, and harbours, and anchoring-places, are now, for the firft time, brought forward, where fliips may be fheltered, and their crews find tolerable refreflaments ? To enumerate all thefe would be td tranfcribe great part of the journals of our fe- veral Commanders, whofe labours will endear them to every navigator, whom trade or war may carry into their tracks, Every nation that fends a fhip to fea, will partake of the benefit •, but Great Britain herfelf, whofe commerce is boundlefs, muft take the lead in reaping the full advan- tage of her own difcoverics. In confequence of all thefe various improvements, Icflen- ing the appreheafions of engaging in long voyages, may we not reafonably indulge the pleafing hope, that frelh branches of commerce may, even in our own time, be at- tempted, and fuccefsfully carried on ? Our hardy adven- turers in the whale-fiiliery, have already found their way, within thefe few years, into the Soutn Atlantic; and who knows what frefh fources of commerce may ftill be opened, if the profpecH: of gain can be added, to keep alive the fpirit of enterprize ? If the fituation of Great Britain be too re- mote, other trading nations will afTuredly avail themfelves of our difcovcries. We may foon expe(5t to h-ear that the Ruffians, now inftruded by us where to find the American continent, have extended their voyages from the Fox lilands to Cook's River, and Prince William's Sound. And if Spain itfelf fliould not be tempted to trade from its moft Northern Mexican ports, by the frefli mine of wealth difcovered ia the furs of King George's Sound, which they may tranfport in their Manilla fliips, as a favourite commodity for the .,./. 7 Chinefe >*■■■« INTRODUCTION. llx cflen- , may * freOi be at- .".< dven- V. • way, who )ened. Vl fpirit \ ■ >o re- felves t the :rican 1 lands Spain thern ed in - ifport r the iinefe Chinefe market ; that market may probably be fupplied by a dired trade to America, from Canton itfelf, with ihofe valuable articles which the inhabitants of China have hi- therto received, only by the tedious and expenfive circuit of Kamtfchatka and Kiachta. Thefe and many other commercial improvements may realbnably be expedled to refult from the Britiili difcoveriesi even in our own times. But if we look forward to future ages, and to future changes in the hiftory of commerce, by recolledling its various paft revolutions and migrations, we may be allowed to pleafe ourfelves with the idea of its finding its way, at laft, throughout the extent of the regions with which our voyages have opened an intercourfeJ and there will be abundant reafon to fubfcribe to Captain Cook's obfervation with regard to New Zealand, which may be applied to other tracks of land explored by him, that *• although they be far remote from the prefent trading ** world, we can, by no means, tell what ufe future ages " may make of the difcoveries made by the prefent *." In this point of view, fur'^ly, the utility of the late voyages mull Hand confcfled ; and we may be permitted to lay, that the hiftory of their operations, which will be complied in thefe volumes, has the jufteft pretenlions to be called KT^jwce if aei, as it will convey to latcil pofterity a treafure of iniereft- ing information. 3. Admitting, however, that we may have exprcfled too fanguine expecflations of commercial advantages, either within our own reach, or gradually to be unfolded at fome future period, as the refult of our voyages of difcovery ; we • Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 92.^ h 2 ' i\- • ,> u- may ff;i fill W i •i I Ix INTRODUCTIO N. may ftill be allowed to confider them as a laudable effort to add to the (lock of human knowledge, with regard to an ob- je(ft which cannot but deferve the attention of enlightened man. To exert our faculties in devifmg ingenious modes of fatisfying oud'elves about the magnitude and diftance of the fun; to extend our acquai::>tance w'*h the fyftem to which that luminary is the corner. yQ centre, by tracing the revolu- tions of a new planet, or the appearance of a new comet ; to carry our bold refearches through all the immenfity of fpace, where world beyond world rifes to the view of the aftoniftied obferver; thefe are employments which none but thofe incapable of purfuing them can depreciate, and which every one capable of purfuing them miift de- light in, as a dignified exercife of the powers of the human mind. But while we dire<5t our lludies to diftant worlds, which, after all our exertions, we muft content ourfelves with having barely difcovered to exift, it would be a ftrange ne^lecfi:, indeed, and would argue a moft culpable want of ra£i(*nal curiofity, if we did not ufe our bed endeavours to arrive at a full acquaintance with the contents of our own planet; of that little fpot in the immenfe univerfe, on which we have been placed, and the utmoft limits of which, at lead its habitable parts, we pofTefs the means of afcer- taining, and defcribing, by actual examination. So naturally doth this reflection prefent itfclf, that to know fomething of the terraqueous globe, is a favourite objecfl with every one who can tafte the loweft rudiments of learn- ing. Let us not therefore think fo meanly of the times in which we live, as to fuppofe it poflible that full juftice will not be done to the noble plan of difcovery, fo fteadily and fo fuccefsfully carried on, fmce the acceflion of his Majefty ; which -;'V* '■VJ.I I 'i INTRODUCTION. which cannot fail to be confidered, in every fucceeding age, as a fplendid period in the hiftory of our country, and to add to our national glory, by diftinguifhing Great Britain as taking the lead in the mofl arduous undertakings for the common benefit of the human race. Before thefe voyages took place, nearly half the furface of the globe we inhabit was hid in obfcurity and confufion. What is ftill wanting to complete our geography, may juIHy be termed the minutia of that fcicncc. 4. Let us now carry bur thoughts fomewhat farther. It is fortunate for the interefts of knowledge, that acquifitions in any one branch, generally and indeed unavoidably, lead to acquifitions in other branches, perhaps of ftill greater confequence ; and that we cannot even gratify mere curio- firy, without being rewarded with valuable inflrudlion. This obfervation applies to the fubjedl before us. Voyages, in which new oceans have been traverfed, and in which new countries have been vifited, can fcarcely ever be performed, without bringing forward to our view frefli objects of fci- ence. Even when we are to take our report of what was difcovered, from the mere failor^ whofe knowledge fcarcely goes beyond the narrow limits of his own profeilion, and whofe inquiries are not dire<51:ed by philofophical difcern- ment, it will be unfortunate indeed, if fomething hath not been remarked, by which the fcholar may profit, and ufe* f ul acceflions be made to our old flock cf information. And if this be the cafe in general, how much more muft be gained by the particular voyages now under confid^ation ? Befides naval officers equally fkilled to examine the coafts they might approach^ as to delineate them accurately upon 3 their Ixi I I I J t : i ■ Uii INTRODUCTION. their cliarts, artiAs* were engaged, who, by their drawings might illuftrate what could only be imperfecHily defcribed; mathcmaticianst) who might treafure up an extenfive feries of fcicntific obfervations ; and perfons verfed in the various departments of the hiftory of nature, who might colled:, or record, all that they Ihould find new and valuable, throughout the wide extent of their refearches. But while mofl of thcfc afTociates of our naval difcoverers, were libe- rally rewarded by the Public, there was one gentleman, who thinking it the nobleil reward he could receive, to have an opportunity of making the ample fortune he inherited from his ancellors, fubfervient to the improvement of fci- ence, flepped forward of his own accord, and fubmitting to the hardships and dangers of a circumnavigation of the globe, accompanied Captain Cook in the Endeavour. The learned world, I may alfo fay the unlearned, will never for- get the obligations which it owes to Sir Jofeph Banks. What real acquifitions have been gained, by this munifi- cent attention to fcience, cannot be better exprefTed than in the words of Mr. Wales, who engaged in one of thefe voyages himfelf, and contributed largely to the benefits de- rived from them. '* That branch of natural knowledge which may be " called nautical aftronomy, was undoubtedly in its infancy, * Mefl'. Hodges and Webber, whofe drawings have ornamented and illuftrated this and Captain Cook's fecond voyage. f Mr. Green, in the Endeavour ; Meflrs. Wales and Bayly, in the Refolution and Adventure ; Mr. Bayly, a fecond time, jointly with Captains Cook and King in this voyage ; and Mr. Lyons, who accompanied Lord Mulgrave. The obfervations of Meflrs. Wales and Bayly, during Captain Cook's fecond voyage, are already in the hands of che Public, by th*; favour of the Board of Longitude ; and thofe of Captains Cook and King, and Mr. Bayly, during this laft, will appear immediately after our Publication. '' when if 1 ■'1 i y- 1 C( i c( ■'is 1 (( (( .1 B «( ;i I {( he turns over his Montfaucon with learned fatisfadtion ; and he gazes with rapture on the noble colle(5lion of Sir William Hamilton. , The amufement is rational and inftru(5live. But will not his curiofity be more awakened, will he not find even more real matter for important refledlion, by palling an hour in furveying the numerous fpecimens of the ingenuity our newly difcovered friends brought from the utmoft recefTes of the globe, to enrich the Britifh Mufeum, and the valuable repofitory of Sir Afliton Lever ? If the curiofitics of Sir Afliton's Sandwich-room alone, were the only acquifition gained by our vifits to the Pacific Ocean, who that has tafte to admire, or even eyes to behold, could hefitatc to pro- nounce, that Captain Cook had not failed in vain ? The ex- pence of his three voyages did not, perhaps, far exceed that of digging out the buried contents of Herculancum. And we may add, that the novelties of the Society or Sandwich, iflands, feem better calculated to engage the attention of the fludious in our times, than the aHr/jMV/Vj, which exhibit proofs of Roman magnificence. The grounds for making this remark cannot be better explained, than in the words of a very ingenious writer.. In an age (fays Mr. Warton *), advanced to the higheft degree of refinement, that fpecics of curiofity com- mences, which is bufied in contemplating the progrefs of ♦' fecial life, in difplaying the gradation of fociety, and in i( (t (f * Preface to his Hiftory of Engliflj Poetry. ■ - t ot lucli ^ " period is extremely natural. We look hai.k on the ('a\ igc •* condition ot" our ancellors with the triumph ot lupcrioritv ; i* and are plcafcd to mark the Heps by which we have been " raifed from rudenefs to elegance ; and our rcllcvflions on •' this fubje(5t arc accompanied with a coufcious pridc» " arifing, in a great meafurc, from a tacit compariibn of " the infinite difproportion between the feeble ellorts of " remote ages, and our prefent improvements in know- •' ledge. In the mean time, the manners, monuments, '• cuftoms, pra<5ticcs, and opinions of antiquity, by forming " fo ftrong a contrafl with thole of our own times, and '' by exhibiting human nature and human inventions in " new liglrts, in uncxpcLTicd appearances, and in various •* forms, arc objetfts which forcibly (Irike a feeling imagi- " nation. Nor docs this fpc6tacle alFord nothing more than " a fruitlefs gratification to the fanry. It teaches us to fee " a juft ellimation on our own acquifitions, and encourages " us to chcrilh that cultivation, which is lo clofely conncded " with the cxiftence and the exercife of every focial virtue." We need not here obferve, that the manners^ monnmentsy cujlonn^ pra^icest and opinions oi the prefent iiiluhirants of the Pacific Ccean, or of the Weft fide of North America, form the > finngejl cont'ojl with thofe of our own time in enlightened Europe ; and that a feeling imagination will probably be more ftruck with the narration of the ceremonies of a Natche at Tongataboo, than of a Gothic tournament at London ; with 'ihe contemplation of the colofTufes of Eafter Ifland, than of the myfterious remains of Stonehcnge. Many fingularities, refpcfting what may be called the natural hiilory of the human fpecies, in diflferent climates, will. INTRODUCTION. i^'ill, on the authority of our late navigators, open abund- ant fourccs for philofophical difculllon. One quclUon of this forr, in particular, which had formerly divided the opinions of the inquilitive, as to the cxiQcncc, if not of •• giants on the earth," at lead of a race (inhabiting a di- flri(fl bordering on the North fide of the llrait of Magal- haens), whofe llature confiderably exceeds that of the bulk of mankind, will no longer be doubted or dilbelievcd. And the ingenious objections of the fceptical author of Recherchcr fur les Am^ricains'*, will weigh nothing in the balance againll the concurrent and accurate teftimony of Byron, Wallis, and Carteret. Perhaps there cannot be a more interefling inquiry than to trace the migrations of the various families or tribes that have peopled the globe ; and in no rcfpcdt have our late voyages been more fertile in curious difcoverics. It was known in general (and I (liall ufe the words of Kxmpferf ), that the Afiatic nation called Malayans, " in former times, «* had by much the greateft trade in the Indies; and fre- •♦ quented with their merchant Ihips, not only all the coafta *' of Afia, but ventured even over to the coafts of Africa, «♦ particularly to the great iiland of Madagafcar %, The title * Tom. i. p. 331. ' , + Hiftory of Japan, Vol. i. p. 93. t '' lat th? Malayans have not only frequented Madagafcar, but have alfo been the pu Miitors of fome of the prefent race of inhabitants there, is confirmed to us by the ttllimony of Monfieurde Pages, who vifited that ifland folate as 1774. " lis •' m'ont p.i u provtnir des diverfes Races ; leur couleur, leurs cheveux, et leur corps ** I'indiquent. Ceux que je n'ai pas cru originaires des anciens naturels du pays, font " petits et trapus ; ils ont les cheveux prefque unis, et font olivdtres comme lei Ma- *' layes, avte qui iU ont^ tngentra/y unt e/pece de refemblance." Voyages d«s M, des Pag^es, T. ii. p. go. • * - ** which Ixxi 't,,, 'I i I'l; li'l: AV'-l (( hxii INTRODUCTION. " -which the king of the Malayans afTuraed to himfclf, of . " Lord of the Winds and Seas totheEaft and to the JVeft^ is an cvi- " .dent proof of this ; but much more the Malayan language, '' which fprcad mod all over the Eaft, much after the fame manner as formerly the Latin, and of late the French, did " all over Eui ope." Thus far, I fay, was known. But that from Madagafcar to the Marquefes and Eaftor Jfland, thac is, nearly from the Eaft fide of Africa, till we approach to- ward the Weft (ide of America, a fpace including above half the circumference of the globe, the fame tribe or na- tion, the Phof3nicians, as we may call them, o the Oriental world, fhould have made their fettlemtnts, and founded colonies throughout almoft every intermediate flage of this immcnfe traft, in iftands at amazing diflances from the mother continent, and ignorant of each others exiftence ; this is an hiftorical faft, which could be but very imper- fe(5lly known before Captain Cook's two firft voyages difco- vered fo many new inhabited fpots of land lurking in the bofom of the South Pacific Ocean ; and it is a faft which does not reft folely on fimilarity of cuftoms and inftitutions, but has been eftablifhed by the moft fatisfacflory of all proofs, that drawn from affinity of language. Mr. Marfden, who feems to have confidered this curious fubjeil with mtich attention, fays, that the links of the latitudinal chain re- main yet to be traced*. Thedifcovery of the Sandwich Iflands in • Archaeolog. Vol. vi. p. 155. See alfo his Hiftory of Sumatra, p. 166. from which the following paflage is tranfcribed. " Befidcs the Malaye, there are a va- " rietv rif languages fpoken on Sumatra, -vvhich, however, have not only a manit.-fi: " affinity aniong themfclves, but alfo to that general language which is found to *« prevail in, and to be indigenous to, all the iflands of the Eaftern fcas ; from Ma- •' dagafcar to the remoteft of Captain Cook's difcoveries, comprehending a wider *' extent than the Roman or any other tongue has yet boafted. In different places, •«« it has been more or lefs mixed and corrupted.; but between the moft diffimilar "■ branches, ;|. INTRODUCTION. Ixxiii in this lafl: voyage, has added fome links to the chain. But Captain Cook had not an opportunity of carrying his rcfcarchea into the more Wcflerly parts of the North Pacific. The Reader, therefore, of the following work will not, per- haps, think that the Editor was idly employed when he fubjoincd fome notes, which contain abundant proof that the inhabitants of the Ladrones, or Marianne iflands, and thofe of the Carolines, are to be traced to the fame com- mon fource, with thofe of the iflands vifited by our fhips. With the like view, of exhibiting a ftriking picfture of the amazing extent of this -Oriental language, which marks, if not a common original, at lead an intimate intercourfe be- tween the inhabitants of places fo very remote from each other, he has inferted a comparative table of their numerals, upon a more enlarged plan than any that has hitherto been executed*. Our Britifh difcoverers have not only thrown a blaze of light on the migrations of the tribe which has fo wonder- fully fpread itfelf throughout the iflands in the Eaftern Ocean ; but they have alfo favoured us with much curious information concerning another of the families of the earth, whofe lot has fallen in lefs hofpitable climates. We fpeak of the Efquimaux, hitherto only found fcated on the coafts of Labradorc and Hudfon's Bay, and who diiier in feveral ■*' branche?, an eminent famcncfs of many radical words is apparent; and in fome " very diilant from each other, in point of fitiiation : As, for inftancc, the Philip- " pines and Madajafcar, the deviation of the words is fcarcely more than is obfcrved " in the dialects of neighbouring provinces of the fame kingdom." * We are indebted to Sir Jofeph Banks, for a general out-line of tliis, in Hawkcf- worth's Collection, Vol. iii. p. 777. The Reader will find our enlarged Table at the end of the third volume, Appendix, No. 2. Vol. I. charac- .■■' T*»H.., J if'h ti '*■ kxiv INTRODUCTION. chara(5leriftic marks from the inland inhabitants of North America. That the Greenlanders and they agree in every circumftance of cuftoms, and manners, and language, which are demonftrations of an original identity of nation, had been difcovered about twenty years ago*. Mr. Hearne, in 1773, traced this unhappy race farther bacif, toward that part of the globe from whence they had originally coafted along in their fkin boats, having met with fome of them at the mouth of the Coppermine River, in the latitude of 72°, and near five hundred leagues farther Weft than Pickerf- gill's moft Wefterly ftation in Davis's Strait. Their being the fame tribe who nov/ adlually inhabit the iflands and coafts on the Weft fide of North America, oppofite Kamt- fchatka, was a difcovery, the completion of which was rcferved for Captain Cook. The Reader of the following work will find them at Norton Sound ; and at Oonalaflika, and Prince William's Sound ; that is, near 1500 leagues diftant from their ftations in Greenland, and on the Labra- dore coaft. And left fimilitude of manners ihould be thought to deceive us, a table exhibiting proofs of affinity of language, which was drawn up by Captain Cook» and is inferted in tliis work f, will remove every doubt from the mind of the moft fcrupulous inquirer aft^^r truth. There are other doubts of a more important kinc', which^ it may be hoped, will now no longer perplex the ignorant, ♦ See Crania's Hifrory of Greenland, Vol. i. n. 262 ; where wc are toM that the Moravian Brethren, who, with the confent and furtherance of Sir Hugh Palliferj then Governor of Newfoundland, vifited the Efquimaux on the Labradorc coall, found that their language, and that of the Greenlarders, do not diflcr fo much, as that of the High and Low Dutch. " - I See Appendix, No. 6. The Greenlanders, a:; Crantz tells us, call themfclves-. Kan/lit ; a word not very unlike K^nagyjf, the name, aflumed by the inhabitants of Kodiack, one of the Schumagin iflands, as StsehJin informs us. m INTRODUCTION. or furnifli matter of cavil to the ill-intentioned. After the great difcovery, or at leafl the full confirmation of the great difcoveryj, of the vicinity of the two continents of Afia and America, we truft vhat we fhall not be any more ridi- culed, for believing that the former could eafily furnifh its inhabitants to the 'atter. And thus, to all the various good purpofes already enumerated, as anfwered by our late voyages, we may add this laft, though not the leafl im- portant, that they have done fervice to religion, by robbing infidelity of a favourite objedion to the credibility of the Mofaic account of the peopling of the earth *. 6. Hitherto we have confidered our voyages as having be- nefited the difcoverers. But it will be alked. Have they con- veyed, or are they likely ever to convey, any benefit to the difcQ'oered ? it would afl~ord exquifite faiisfadion to every benevolent mind, to be inftrudied in fac^s, whicli might enable us, without hefitation, to anfwer this queftiou in the aflSrmative. And yet, perhaps, we may indulge the pleaf- ing hope, that, even in this refpe(5t, our fhips have not failed ir vain. Other difcoveries of new countries have, in effetfl, been wars, or rather mafTacres ; nations have been no Iboner *ound out, than they have been extirpated ; and the horrid cruelties of the coaquerors of Mexico and Peru * A contCLTipt of Revelation is generally the refult of ignorance, conceited of it# pofrefllng fuperior knowledge. Obferve how the Author of Recherches Philofa- phtques fur Us Jmericaitij, expreUes himfelf on this very point. "■ Cette dillance que " Mr. Anterrnony veut Lrouver fi peu importantc, eft a-peu-pres de huh cent lieues *' Gauloifes au travers d'un ocean ptrilleuxy et impclible a franchir avec ues canots " audi chetif.3 ct aufli fragiles que !e font, au irapport d'Yibrand Ides, les chaloupes " de5 Tungufes,'" kc. &c. T. i. p. 156. Had this writer known that the two continents are not ahove thirteen leagues (inftcad of eight hundred) diftant from each other, and tiiat, even in that narrov/ fpace of fca, there are inlers'ening iflaiids, he would not have ventured to urge this argument in oppofition to Mr. Bell's notion of the quarter from which North America received its original inhabitants, k 2 can Ixxv I, II i I' % Ixxv. INTRODUCTION. can never be remembered, without bluftiing for religion and human nature. But when the recefTes of the globe are inveftigated, not to enlarge private dominion, but to pro- mote general knowledge ; when we vifit new tribes of our fellow-creatures as friends ; and wifli only to learn that they exift, in order to bring them v/ithin the pale of the offices of humanity, and to relieve the wants of their imperfect: Hate of fociety, by communicating to them our fuperior attainments ; voyages of difcovery planned with fuch be- nevolent views by George the Third, and executed by Cook, • have not, we truft, totally failed in this refpe(5l. Our repeated vifits, and long continued intercourfc with the natives of the Friendly, Society, and Sandwich Iflands, cannot but have darted fome rays of light on the infant minds of thofe poor people. The uncommon obje(?ts they have thus had oppoi- tunities of obferving and admiring, will naturally tend to enlarge their flock of ideas, and to furnifh new material;; for the exercife of their reafon. Comparing themfelvcs with their vifiters, they cannot but be Aruck with the deepeil convidlion of their owi inferiority, ---d be impelled, by the ftrongefl: motives, to llrive to '■ :rge from it, and to rife nearer to a level with thofe children of the Sun wlio deigned to look upon them, and left behind Co many fpeci- mens of their generous and humane attention. The very introduiflion of our ufeful animals and vegetables, by add- ing frefh means of fubfillence, will have added to their com- forts of life, and immediate enjoyments; and if this be the only benefit they are ever to recr-ive, who will pronounce that much has not been gained? But may we not carry our wlfties and our hopes ftill farther ? Great Britain itfclf, ■when firft vifaed by the Phoenicians, was inhabited by fainteJ Savages, not, pc haps, blefied with higher attain- ments ^•♦s*^ y^.i 1 INTRODUCTION. IxXV'i mcnts than are poflefled by the prefent natives of New Zea- land ; certainly lefs civilized than thofe of Tongataboo or Otaheite. Our having opened an intercourfe with them, is the firil ftep tow-.rd ihcir improvement. Who knows, but that our late voyages may be the means appointed by Pro- vidence, of fpreading, in due time, the bleflings of civi- lization, amongfi; the numerous tribes of the South Pacific Ocean; of abolifliing their hoi rid repafts and their horrid rites ; and of laying the foundation for future and more efTedual plans, to prepare them for holding an honourable ftation amongft the nations of the earrh ? This, at leafl, is cer- tain, that our having, as it were, brought them into exiftence by our extcnfive refearches, will fuggefl: to us frefli motives of devout gratitude to the Supreme Being, for having blefled us with advantages hitherto withheld from fo great a pro- portion Oi the human race ; and will operate powerfully to incite us to perfevere in every feafible attempt, to be his jnftruments in refcuing millions of fellow-creatures from their prefent (late of humiliation. " • The feveral topics, which occurred, as fuitable to this g' neral Introdud:ion, being now difcufFed, nothing remains but to ftate a few particulars, about which the reader of thefe volumes has a right to expe(5l fomc in; )rmation. Captain Cook, knowing, before he failed upon this lafl: expedition, that it was expe(5led from him to rehte, as well as to execute, its operations, had tdken caic ro prepare fucli a journal as might be made ufe of for publication. This journal, which exifts in his own hand-writing, has been faithfully adhered to. It is not a bare exiracft from his .log- books, but contains many remarks which, it appears, had i:ot been infcrted by him in the nautical rcgifter ; and it is 7 alfo m 'M, n\' Ixxviii INTRODUCTION. ■ ' Ir! it ■:• alfo enriched with confiderable communications from Mr. Anderfon, Surgeon of the Refolution. The confefTed abi- lities, and great afliduity, of Mr. Anderfon, in obferving every thing that related either to natural hiftory, or to man- ners and language ; and the defire which, it is well known. Captain Cook, on all orcafions, fhewed to have the afliftance of that gentleman, ftamped a great value on his collections. That nothing, therefore, might be wanting to convey to the Public the beft poffible account of the tranfaftions of the Voyage, his journal, by the order of Lord Sandwich, was ilfo put into the hands of the Editor, who was autho- rized and direded to avail himfclf of the information it might be found to contain, about matters imperfe<5tly touch- ed, or altogether omitted, in Captain Cook's manufcript. This talk has been executed in fuch a manner, that the reader will fcarcely ever be at a lofs i diftinguifli in what inftances recoarfe has been had to Mr. Anderlbn. To pre- clude, if poflible, any miftake, the copy of the firft and fecond volumes, before it went to the printer, was fub- mitied to Captain King ; and after ic had been read over and corre(5lcd by cue fo well qualified to point out any inac- curacies, the Earl of Sandwich had the goodnefs to give it a perufal. As to the third volume, nothing more need be faid, than that it was completely prepared for the prefs by Captain King himfe'f. All that the Editor of the work has to anlwe,- for, are :he lOtes occafionally introduced in the courfc ot the two volumes, contributed by Captain Cook; and this introdu aioi-; which was intended as a kind of epilogue to our Voyages of difcovery. He mud be per- mitted, however, to fay, that he conliders himfelf as i.i- titled to no ineonT'dcrable fliare of candid indulgence from ihc Public; having engaged in a very tedious and troublc- 1 fome I INTRODUCTION. fome undertaking upon the nioft difintereJleJ motives ; his only reward being the fatisfadlion he feels, in having been able to do an efTential fcrvice to the family of our great navigator, who had honoured him, in the journal of this voyage, with the appellation of Friend. They who have repeatedly afked why this publication has been fo long delayed, need only look at the volumes, and their attendant illuftrations and ornaments, to be fatisfied that it might, with at leaft equal reafon, be wondered at, that it has not been delayed longer. The Journal of Captain Cook, from the firft moment that it came into the hands of the Editor, had been ready for the Prefs ; and Captain King had left with him his part of the narrative, fo long ago as his departure for the Weft Indies, when he commanded the Refiftance man of war. ut much, befide?, remained to be- done. The charts, particularly the general one, were to be prepared by Mr. Roberts, who gives an account of his work. in the note * i the very numerous and elegant drawings of Mr. * Soon after our departure from England, I was inftru£ted by Captain Cook to complete a map of the world as a general chart, from the beft materials he was in pofreflion of for that purpofe ; and before his death this bufmefs was in ^ great mea- fure accomplifhed : That is, the grand outline cf the whole was arranged, leaving, only thofe parts vacant or unfinifliod, which he expet^ed to fall in with and explore. But on our return home, when the fruits of our voyage were ordered by the Lords Commiffioners of the Admiralty to be publiflied, the care of the —neral chart beino- ronfigned to me, T was direded to prepare it from the kteft and belt authorities • and alfo to introduce Captain Cook's three fucceflive tracks, that all his difcoveries, ani the different routes he had taken might appear together ; by this means to give a general idea of the whole. This taflc having been performed by me, it is neceffary for the information of the Reader, to ftilte the heads of the feveral auduariues wkick. I have followed in fuch parts of the chart as differ from what was drawn up im- mediately under the infpe£lion of Captain Cook ; And when the Public are made acquainted, that many materials, necefi'ary to complete and elucidate the work were not, at the time, on bosrd the Relblution^ or in his poffeffioii, the reafos will aom the Table lately publifhed by Mr. D.ilrymple for the ulb of the Eaft India Ihips ; From tlie Philofophical Tranfa£tions of the Royal Society J a.id from tlie Obfcrvations of our late Navigators. HEN\ ROBERTS. SiiOREMAM, SussKX, May 18, 1784. t ful ■»■■ "Tl|: m INTRODUCTION. ful to that munificent Patron of Science, who not only dU re<5tcd the hirtory of the voyage to be publKhed ; but to be publifhed with iuch a fplendid train of ornaments, at the public expence, as will Hill add to the merit of having or- dered the voyage itfelf to be undertaken. And here it feems to be incumbent upon us to add, as another inftance of munificent attention, that care lias been taken to mark, in the mod fignificant manner, the juft fcnic entertained of the humane and liberal relief aflfordcd to our fhips in Kamtfchatka. Colonel Bchm, the commandant of that province, has not been rewarded merely by the pleafure which a benevolent mind feels in iefle(5ling upon the blefT' ings it confers; but has been thanked in a manner equally confiftent with the dignity of his own fovereign and of ours, to whofe fubjeds he extended protection. A magnificent piece of plate was prefented to him, with an infcripiion^ worthy of a place in the fame book where the hiftory of his humanity to our countrymen is recorded, and which, while it does honour to our national gratitude, deferves alfo to be preferved as a monument of our natio;ial tafte for elegant compofition. It is as follows: ViRo EGREGio MAGNo DE Behm; qui, Tvipcratricis AiiguJilJftVKe Catherinie aufpicus,fummdque animi benignitate,fteva, qutbits prtccratt Kamtfchatka littora^ navibus nautifqiie Britannicis, ho/pita prxbttit ; tofquCf in terminisy ft qui cjfen. Imperio Riiffico, frufrii c: > -1^ '/ >!S^ Hiotographic Sdences Corporation .^ ^ h. cs \ ^ Ci^ ^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MS80 (716) S72-4503 Ixxxiv INTRODUCTION. This public tcllimony of gratitude, reminds the Editor, that there are fimilar calls upon himfelf. He owes much to Captain King for his advice and dire(5tion, in a variety of inftances, where Captain Cook's Journal required explana- tion; for filling up feveral blanks with the proper longitude and latitude ; and for fupplying deficiencies in the tables of aftronomical obfervations. Lieutenant Roberts was alfo frequently confulted, and was always found to be a ready and efifeftual aflillant, when any nautical difficulties were to be cleared up. But particular obligations are due to Mr. Wales, who, be- fides the valuable communications which have been adopted in this Introdu<^ion, feconded mod liberally the Editor's views of ferving Mrs. Cook, by cheerfully taking upon him- felf the whole trouble of digelling, from the log books, the tables of the route of the (hips, which add fo greatly to the intrinfic merit of this publication. Mr. Wegg, befides ftiaring in the thanks fo juftly due to the committee of the Hudfon's Bay Company, for their ^ unreferve'' communications, was particularly oLliging to the Editoi, by giving him repeated opportunities of con- verfing with Governor Hearne, and Captain Chriftopher. The Honourable Mr. Daines Harrington had the goodnefs to intereft himfelf, with his ufual zeal for every work of public utility, in procuring fome necefTary information, and fuggefting fome valuable hints which were adopted. It would be great injuftice not to exprefs our acknow- ledgments to Mr. Pennant, who, befides enriching the third volume with references to his ArStic Zoology, the publication of which will be an important acceffion to Natural Hiftory, alio '1 INTRODUCTION. alfo communicated fome very authentic and fatisfacftory manufcript accounts of the RuiCan difcoveries. The vocabularies of the Friendly and Sandwich Iflands, and of the natives of Nootka, had been furniflied to Captain Cook, by his moft ufeful aflbciate in the voyage, Mr. An- derfon ; and a fourth, in which the language of the Efqui- maux is compared with that of the Americans on the op- pofite fide of the continent, had been prepared by the Cap- tain himfelf. But the comparative Table of Numerals, which is marked No. 2. in the Appendix, was very obligingly drawn up, at the requeft of the Editor, by Mr. Bryant, who, in his ftudy, has followed Captain Cook, and, indeed, every traveller and hiflorian, of every age, into every part of the globe. The Public will confider thh Table as a very ftriking illuftration of the wonderful migrations of a nation, about whom fo much additional information has been gained by our voyages, and be ready to acknowledge it as a very ufe- ful communication. One more communication remains to be not only ac- knowledged, but to be inferred at the clofe of this Intro- dudlion. The tejlimonies of learned contemporaries, in com- mendation of a deceafed Author, are frequently difplaycd in the front of his book. It is with the great eft propriety, therefore, that wc prefix to this pofthumous work of Cap- tain Cook the tejlintony of one of his own profefllon, not more diftinguiOied by the elevation of rank, than by the dignity of private virtues. As he wishes to remain con- cealed, perhaps this allufion, for which we intreat his in- dulgence, may have given too exadl diredion to the eyes of the Public where to look for fuch a charadler. Let us, how- . ever, reft fatisfied with the intrinfic merit of a compofition, conveyed Ixxxv Ixxxvi INTRODUCTION. conveyed under the injun<5lion of fecrecy; and conclude our long preliminary dilTertation with exprefling a wilh, or rather a well-grounded hope, that thiB volume may not be the only place where pofterity can meet with a monumental infcription, commemorative of a man, in recounting and applauding whofe fervices, the whole of enlightened Europe will equally concur with Great Britain. ;?■ T O [ Ixxxvii } TO THE MEMORY OF Captain JAMES COOK, The ableft and nioft renowned Navigator this or any country hath produced. TTE ra'ifed himfelf^ foMy by bis merits from a very ohfcure birtby to the rank of Poft Captain in the royal navy, and was, unfortunately ^ killed by the Savages of the ijland Owhybee, on the i/^h of February 1779; which i/land be bad, not long before, d'fcovered, when profc- cuting bis third voyage round the g lobe. He pojfejfed, in an eminent degree, all the qualifications requifte for bis profejfion and great undertakings ; together with the amiable and worthy qualities of the heft men. Cool and deliberate in judging : fagacious in determining : aSlive in executing : Jleady and perfcvering in enterprifing from vigilance and unremitting caution : unfubdued by labour, difficulties, and difappoint- ments : fertile in expedients : never wanting prefence of mind : always • pojfejftng himfelf, and the full ufe of a found underftanding. AH Id, jujl, f'lt exadl in difcipUne : he was a father to bis people, who were attached to him from offcElion, and obedient from confidence^ His knowledge, his experience, bis fagacity, rendered bimfo intirely majler of his fubjeUl, that the greatefi obfiacles were furmounted, and the mofi dangerous navigations became eafy, and almoft fafe, under bis dire^ion.. Be 1i Uxxviii INSCRIPTION TO THE He explored the Southern bemifphere to a much higher latitude than had ever been reached^ and with fewer accidents than frequently befal thofe "who navigate the coajls of this ifland. By his benevolent and unabatiug attention to the welfare of his fhiff company^ he difcovered and introduced a fyjlem for the preferva- tion of the health of feamen in long voyages y which has proved •wonder-' fully rJJcacious : for in his fecond voyage round the worlds which con-* tinned upwards of three years ^ he lofl only one man by di/lempery of one hundred and eighteen ^ of which his company confjled. The death of this eminent and valuable man was a lofs to mankind in general; and particularly to be deplored by every nation that refpeSs ufeful accomplipjmvitSy that honours fciencCy and loves the benevolent aud amiable affeElions of the heart. Jt is fill more to be deplored by this country^ which may jujlly boaf of having produced a man hitherto unequalled for nautical talents -^ and that forrow is farther aggra- vated by the refleBion^ that his country was deprived of this ornament by the enmity of a people ^ from whom^ indeed ^ it might have been dread- edy but from whom it was not deferved, For^ a&uated always by the mojl attentive care and tender compaffion for the fav ages in general ^ this excellent man was ever afftduoufly endeavouring^ by kind treatment to diffipate their fears ^ and court their friendflAp ; overlooking their thefts and treacheries y and frequently interpofngy at the haxard of hit ife, to protect them from the fudden refentment of his own injured people. * > The obje£l of his lajl miffion was to difcover aud afcertain the bounda- ries of Afia and America^ and to penetrate into the Northern Ocean by the North Eafl Cape of Afia. Traveller I contemplate^ admire^ revere, and emulate this great mafler in his profeffion ; whofe fkill and labours have enlarged natural Philofophy ; have extended nautical fcience ; and have difclofed the long concealed and admirable arrangements of the Almighty in the formation 3 of t' T MEMORY OF CAPTAIN COOK. of this globe ^ and^ at the fame I'lme^ the arrogance of mart tils ^ in pre- fuming to account^ by their fpeculations^ for the laws by which be was pleafed to create it. It is now difcovered^ beyond all doubly that the fume Great Being who created the univerfe by his fiat, by the fame ordained our earth to keep ajufi poife^ without a correfponding Southern continent — and it does fo ! " He flretches out the North over the empty *• place ^ and hangetb the earth upon notbing^^ Job, xxvi. 7. If the arduous but exaft refearchcx of this extraordinary man have not difcovered a new world^ they have d'fcovered feas unnavigated and unknowr before. They have made us acquainted with iflands ^ people and produdlions^ of which we had no conception- And if he has not beenfo fortunate as Am, icus to give his name to a continent ^ his prctenfions to fitch a diJlin6lion remain unrivalled \ and he will be revered ^ while there remains a page of his own modefl account of bis voyages ^ and as long ' as mariners and geographers fhall be inflruEled^ by his new map of th^ Southern hemifpbere^ to trace the various courfcs and difcoveries be bas- made. If public fervices merit public acknowledgments ; if the man who- adorned and raifedthe fame rf his country is deferving of honours ^ then Captain CooK deferves to have a monument raifed to his memory^ by a generons and grateful nation. Vittutis uberrimum allmentum eft honos. Val. Maximus, Lib. %, Cap. ^4 Ixxxix Vol. I. m LIST [ xci ] LIST OF THE PLATES, With Directions for placing them. [As many of the Purchafers of this Work may choofe to prcfervc the larger-fizcd Plates in a feparate volume in folio, thefe have been here marked vyith Aftcrifks ; and Booicfellcrs are cautioned not to have them bound up, with the rert of the Plates, in the places of thefe volumes pointed out by the rffpedive References, unlefs they receive particular diredions for that purpofc.J VOL. I. Page I *General Chart exhibiting Captain Cook's dif- coveries - - - 51 Chart of Kerguelen's Land, with a fketch of Prince tdward's Iflands 61 Sketches of Chriftmas Harbour, and Port Pallifer in Kerguelen's Land 7 1 * View of Chriftmas Harbour in Kerguelen's Land ... 83 Views on the Coaft of Kerguelen's Land f. 91 Chart and Views of Van Diemen'' T^nd 96 *A Man of Van Diemen's Land 101 *A Woman of Van Diemen's Land J 09 *Ak Opoflum of Van Diemen's Land Plate N" L IIL IV, LXXXil. V. VL VIL VIIL t A few of the Plac?? are not numbered in the order in which they arc to be placed- but no inconvenience can enfuc, as the references to the Pages of each Volume will remedy this unavoidable imperfection. m z k xcii LIST OF THE PLATES. rjge Plate N* 117 *Plan of Adventure Bay, in Van Diemen's Land IX. 157 *The Infidc of a Hippahi in New Zealand X. 173 *A Man of Mangea - - XL 225 Chart of the Friendly Iflands - XII. 230 *Vicw at Anamooka - - XIII. 244 *The Reception of Captain Cook in Hapaec XlV. 246 *A boxing match in Ilapaee - XV. 249 *A Night Dance by Men in Hapa^e - XVI. 250 *A Night Dance by Women in Hapace - XVII. 264 *Poulaho, King of the Friendly IHauds XVUf. 277 Sk*tch of Tongataboo Harbour - XIX. 312 *Poulaho, King of the Friendly Iflandst drink- ing Kava • - - XX. 314 * A Fiatooka or Morai, in Tongitaboo - XXL 337 *The Natche, a Ceremony in honour of the King's Son, in Tongataboo - XXIL 355 A Woman of Eaoo or Eooa • - XXIIL VOL. IL 5 Sketches of Mangea, Vol. i. p. 170 ; — ofWa- teeoo. Vol. i. p. i8oj— of Wenooa ette. Vol. i. p. 205 ; — and of Toobouai - XXIV. 32 *A Human Sacrifice in a Moral, in Otaheite XXV. 51 *A young Woman of Otaheite bringing a pre- fent - - - XXVIL 52 *The Body of Tee, a Chief, as prefervcd after death, in Otaheite - - XXVL 58 *A Dance, in Otaheite - - XXVIIL 6g *A young Woman of Otaheite, dancing XXIX. 79 Sketch of two Harbours on the North fide of Eimeo - - - XXX. :, In Page 9» 175^ too 202 205 258 269 279 895 301 303 306 LIST OF THE PLATES. Plate N' •A view of Huahcine • • , XXXI. Chriflmas Ifland - . • XXXIF. *A Moral in Atooi - - XXXIII. *The Infidc of the Houfe in the Mora'h in Atooi XXXIV. *An inland View in Atooi - XXXV. Views on the Weft coaft of North America LXXXVI. ♦Chart of the North Weft coaft of North Ame- rica, and North Eaft coaft of Afia - xxxvr. Sketch of Nootka Sound - - XXXVII. ♦ASeaOtt^r - - XLIII. •A man of Nootka Sound - XXXVIII. *A woman of Nootka Sound - XXXIX. ^Various Articles at Nootka Sound - XL. I A bird, made of wood } hollow, with ftonei in the inflde, which the Natives (hake when they dance. a A Seal's head, made of wood, worn upon their heads. 3 A bird's head, compofed of wood and feathers, alfo worn upon their heads. 4 Another for the fame purpofe, and ornament- ed with green talc. ZCtit 3 13 *View of the Habitations in Nootka Sound XLI. 317 *The Inflde of a Houfe in Nootka Sound - XLIL 353 Chart of Cook's River, and Prince William's Sound - - - XLIV. 361 *A view of Snug Corner Cove in Prince Wil- liam's Sound - - XLV. 367 'A Man of Prince William's Sound - XLVI. 369 *A Woman of Prince William's Sound XLVJf. 1 'I ('I'd ICl¥ Page 410 421 422 424 447 457 467 471 484 5'o 512 55^ LIST OF THE the Weftward of Cook's River *A Man of Oonalafhka *A woman of Oona1a(hka *Canoe8 of Oonalafhka Sketch of Samganoodha Harbour at the Ifland Oonalafhka - - - •The Tfchuktrcbl, or Tfchutfki, and their Ha- bitations - • . ♦Sea Horlct - . - Chart of Norton Sound and Beering's Strait Views on the coafl of Ada - ♦Inhabitants of Norton Sound, and their Ha- bitations • • - *Caps of the natives of Oonalafhka * Natives of Oonalafhka, and their habitations *The Infide of a Houfe in Oonalaflika Views of the Sandwich Iflands PLATES, Plate N* \ America, to • LXXXVII. . XLVIII. • •■ XLIX. m L. LV. LL LIL Liir. LXXXIV. • LIV. LVI. LVII. LVIIL LXXXIIL VOL. III. '7 54 J2J Chart of the Sandwich Iflands, and view of Karakakooa Bay - - LIX. ♦An C'lTcring before Captain Cook in the Sand- wich Iflands - - LX. ♦Tcrcoboo or Terreeoboo, King of Owhyhee, bringing prefents to Captain Cook - LXL *A Man of the Sandwich Iflands, dancing ' LXII. *A view of Karakakooa in Owhyhee - LXVIII. *A young woman of the Sandwich Iflands LXIII. Page 126 139 140 i5« LIST OF THE PLATES. *A Man of the Sandwich Iflands, with hit helmet . - - *A Canoe of the Sandwich Iflands, the Rowers mafked « - - *A Man of the Sandwich Illands in a made *Variou8 Articles at the Sandwich Iflands xcv N"i a 3 5 6 A vTooJcn Inftrument or Weapon, fct round wi h tlie teeth of Sharks, with which they cut up their prifoners. Another, for the fame purpofe. A mufical Inflrument i the upper part wicker- work, covered with feathers i the bottom part a gourd with Hones in it, which the dancer (kakes about. — Sec Plate LXII. An Idol upon wickcr-wurk, covered with feathers ; the eyes mother of pearl, with a black nuti the mouth fee with teeth of dogs. A Bracelet, compofed of the tuflcs of hdgs. A wooden Dagger called Pahooab. 1 84 Sketch of Awatfka Bay in Kamtfchatka 201 *A Man in Kamtfchatka travelling in winter •A Sledge in Kamtfchatka - - *A view at Bolcheretflcoi in Kamtfchatka *A white Bear - - . *A view of the Town and Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, i.n Kamtfchatka Views on the coaft of Kamtfchatka *A Man of Kamtfchatka ♦A Woman of Kamtfchatka *Summer and Winter Habitations in Kamt- fchatka - - - 202 359 360 374 Plate N* LXIV. LXV. LXVI. LXVH. LXIX. LXX. LXXI. LXXIL LXXIII. LXXIV. LXXXV. LXXV. LXXVI. LXXVIL K5' I I III ifcvi LIST OF THE PLATES. I^age Plate N* Z1^ *The Infide of a Winter Hab'tatloa in Kamtf- chatka - - - LXXVIIL 397 Chart of the Coaft of Japan - LXXIX. 409 Sketch of Sulphur Ifland - . LXXX, 420 Sketch of the Typa and Macao * LXXXL [N. B. The longitude in thefe volumes is reckoned from the me- ridian of Greenwich, and after pafling it to the Eaft, in the South Atlantic, is carried on Eafterly beyond the i8oth degree, to th^ utmoft extent of the voyage j and back, to the fame meridian.^2 I I I I'M ' I. ■■iy.y.d iv':.^l =^:^- A VOYAGE VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. B O O K I. Tranfefikions from the Beginning of the Voyage till our Departure from New Zealand, CHAP. I. Various Preparations for the Voyage,~-^Omats Behaviour on embarking, — Ohferoations for determining the Lon-- gxiude of Sheernefs^ and the North Foreland. — Pajfage ^f the Refolution from Deptford to Plymouth.— ^Entploy^ fnents there, — Complements of the Crews of both Ships ^ and Names of the Officers. — Ob/ervationf to fix the Longitude of Plymouth. — Departure of the Refolution, HAVING, on the ninth Day of February 1776, re- 1776. ceived a commiffion to command his Majefty^s floop v^"!Zl# the Refolution, I went on board the next day, Saturday loi hoifted the pendant, and began to enter men. At the fame time, the Difcovery, of three hundred tons burthen, was Vol. I, . B purchafcd t , A VOYAGE TO 1776. February. Il'l' March, laturday 9. May. Monday 6. Thurfday30. June. ^Atutday S. m purchafed into the fervice, and the command of her given to Captain Gierke, who had been my fecond Lieutenant on board the Refolution, in my fecond voyage round the world, from which we had lately returned. Thefe two Ihips were, at this time, in the dock at Dept- ford, under the hands of the fhipwrightsj being ordered to be equipped to make farther difcoveries in the Pacific Ocean> under my dire(5tion. On the gth of March, the Refolution was hauled out of dock into the River j where we completed her rigging, and took on board the ftores and provifions requilite for a voyage of fuch duration. Both Ihips, indeed, were fupplied with as much of every neceflary article as we could conveniently How, and with the bed of every kind that could be pro- cured. And, befides this, every thing that had been found, by the experience acquired during our former extenfive voyages, to be of any utility in preferving the health of fcamen, was fupplied in abundance. It was our intention to have failed to Long Reach on the 6ih of May, when a pilot came on board to carry us thither; but it was the 29th before the wind would permit us to move} and the 3pth before we arrived at that ftation, where our artillery, powder, fhot, and other ordnance ftores.were received. While we lay in Long Reach, thus employed, the Earl of Sandwich, Sir Hugh Pallifer, and others of the Board of Ad- miralty, as the laft mark of the very great attention they had all along fliewn to this equipment, paid us a vifit on the 8[h of June, to examine whether every thing had been completed conformably to their intentions and orders, and to the fatisfat^ion of all who were to embark in the voyage. 4 . They, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. They, and feveral other Noblemen and Gentlemen their »77<5. June. friends, honoured me with their company at dinner on that « . ^.- ^^^ day ; and, on their coming on board, and alfo on their go- ing afliore, we faluted them with feventeen guns, and three cheers. i ' With the benevolent view of conveying fome permanent benefit to the inhabitants of Otaheite, and of the other iflands in the Pacific Ocean, whom we might happen to vifit, his Majefty having commanded fome ufeful animals to be carried out, we took on board, on the loth, a bull, Mond«yi«» two cows with their calves, and fome fheep, with hay and corn for their fubfiftence ; intending to add to thefe, other ufeful animals, when I fliould arrive at the Cape of Good Hope. I was alfo, from the fame laudable motives, furniflied with a fufl5cient quantity of fuch of our European ^-arden feeds, as could not fail to be a valuable prefentto ournewly- difcovered iflands, by adding frefli fupplies of food to their own vegetable produ<5lions. Many other articles, calculated to improve the condition of our friends in the other hemifphere in various ways, were, at the fame time, delivered to us by order of the Board of Admiralty. And both fhips were provided with a proper aflbrtment of iron tools and trinkets, as the means of enabling us to traffic, and to cultivate a friendly inter- courfe with the inhabitants of fuch new countries ai we might be fortunate enough to meet with. The fame humane attention was extended to our own wants. Some additional cloathing, adapted to a cold cli- mate, was ordered for our crews: and nothing was denied to us that could be fuppofed in the leaft conducive to health, or even to convenience. i B 2 Nor V ► m ♦vf A VOrAGE TO 1776. June. Nbr did the extraordinary care of thofe at the bead of the naval departttient (lop here. They were equally felicitous to affdrd us every affiftance towards rendering our voyage of public utility. Accordingly, we received on board, next Tucfday n. day, feveral aftronomical and nautical inftrucients, which the Board of Longitude intruded to me, and to Mr., King, my fecond Lieutenant} we having engaged to that Board to. make all the neceflary obfervations, during the voyage, for the imjprovement of aftronomy and navigation j and, by our joint labours, to fupply the place of a profefTed obfervator. < ' Such a perfon had been originally intended to be fent out in my fhip. The Board, likewife, put into our pofleffion the fame "watch, or time-keeper, which I had carried out in my laft voyage, and had performed its part fo well. It was a copy of Mr. Harrifon's, conftrudbcd by Mr. Kendall. This day, at noon, it was found to be too flow fdr mean time at Green- wich, by 3', 31", 890; and by its rate of going, it loft, on mean time, 1", 209 per day. Another time keeper, and the fame number and fort of inftruments for making obfervations, were put on board the Difcovery, under the care of Mr. "William Bailey; who, having already given fatisfacflory proofs of his fkill and di- ligence as an obfervator, while employed in Captain Fur- neaux's (hip, during the late voyage, was engaged a fecond time, in that capacity, to embark with Captain Gierke. Mr. Anderfon, my furgeon, who, to fkill in his immediate profeffion, added great proficiency in natural hiftory, was as willing as he was well qualified, to defcribe every thing in that branch of fcience which fliould occur worthy of no- tice. As he had already vifited the South Sea iflands in the fame (hip, and been of fingular fervice, by enabling me to enrich a June. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. i enrich my relation of that voyage with various ufeful re- marks on men and things *, I reafonably expecfled to derive confiderable ailiilance from him, in recording our new pro- ceedings. I had feveral young men amongft my fea- officers who, under my direcSlion, could be ufcfully employed in con- ilru<5ling charts, in taking views of the coails and head- lands near which we ihould pafs, and in drawing plans of the bays and harbours in which we fhould anchor. A con- ftant attention to this I knew to be highly requifite, if we would render our difcoveries profitable to future navigators. And, that we might go out with every help that could ferve to make the rel'ult of our voyage entertaining to the generality of readers, as well as inftru- Juno. A VOYAGE TO anchored at the Nore. Next day the Difcovcry proceeded, in obedience to my order; but the Rcfolution was ordered to remain at the Nore till I fliould join her, being at this time in London. As we were to touch at Otaheitc and the Society Iflands, in our way to the intended fcene of our frefh operations, it had been determined not to omit this opportunity (the only one ever likely to happen) of carrying Omai back to his native country. Accordingly, every ihing being ready for our de- Monday 24. parture, he and I fet nut together from London on the 24th, at fix o'clock in the morning. We reached Chatham be- tween ten and eleven o'clock ; and, after dining with Com- miflioner Proby, he very obligingly ordered hij yacht to carry us to Sheernefs, where my boat was waiting to take us on board. Omai left London with a mixture of regret and fatisfac- tion. When we talked about England, and about thofe who, during his ftay, had honoured him with their protec- tion or friendfliip, I could obferve that his fpirits were fen- fibly affeded, and that it was with difficulty he could refrain from tears. But, the inftant the converfation turned to his c*vn illands, his eyes began to fparkle with joy. He w?.s deeply imprefTed with a fenfe of the good treatment he hid met with in England, and entertained the higheft ideas of the country and of the people. But the pleafing profpe(5t he now had before him of returning home, loaded with what, he well knew, would be efteeraed invaluable treafures there, and tlie flattering hope which the pofleffion of ihefe gave him, of attaining to a diftinguiflied fuperiority amongft his countrymen, were confiderations which operated, by degrees, to fupprefs every uneafy fenfation j and he feemed to be quite happy when he gc. un board the fliip. He m n76. June. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. • He was furniflied, by his Majefty, with an ample provi- fion of every article which, during our intercourfe with his country, we had obferved to be in any eftimation there, either as ufeful or as ornamental. He had, beftdes, received many prefents of the fame nature from Lord Sandwich, Mr.* Banks, and feveral other Gentlemen and Ladies of his acquaintance. In fhort, every method had been employed, both during his abode in England, and at his departure, to make him the inftrument of conveying to the inhabitants of the iflands of the Pacific Ocean^ the moft exalted opinion of the greatnefs and generoiity of the Britifh nation. While the Refolution lay at the Nore, Mr. King made feveral obfervations for finding the longitude by the watch. The ^^ean of them all, gave o" 44' o", for the longitude of the (hip. This, reduced to Shcernefs, by the bearing and eftimated diflance, will make that place to be 0° 37' o" Eaft of Greenwich i- which is more by feven miles than Mr. , Lyons made it, by the watch which Lord Mulgrave had with him, on his voyage towards the North Pole. Whoever knows any thing of the diftance between Sheernefs and Green- wich, will be a judge which of thefe two obfervations is neareft the truth. The variation of the needle here, by a mean of different fets, taken with different compafles, was 20° 37' Weft. On the 25th, about noon, we weighed anchor, and made Tuefdayij, fail for the Downs, through the Queen o Channel, with a gentle breeze at North Weft by Weft. At nine in the even- ing we anchored, with the North Foreland bearing South by Eaft, and Margate Point South Weft by South, • Now Sir Jofeph. Next :wn B A VOYAGE TO 1776. June. f >.i^. VVcdnef. 26. Next morning, at two o'clock, we weighed and ftood round the Foreland ; and when it bore North, allowing for the variation of the compafs, the watch gave i** 24' Eaft longitude, which, reduced to the Foreland, will be 1* 21' Eaft. Lunar obfervations made the preceding evening, fixed it at i" 20' Eaft. At eiglit o'clock the fame morn- ing, we anchored in the Downs. Twd boats had been built for us at Deal, and I immediately fent on fhore for them. I was told that many people had aflemWed there to fee Omai i but, to their great difappointment, he did not land. Having received the boats on board, and a light breeze at South South Eaft fpringing up, we got under fail the next Thurfdayz;. day at two o'clock in the afternoon. But the breeze foon died away, and we were obliged to anchor again till ten o'clock at night. We then weighed, with the wind ait £aft» and proceeded down the channel. On the 30th, at tlwee o'clock m the afternoon, we an- chored in Plymouth Sound, wheuethe Difcoveryhad arrived only three days before. 1 faluted Admiral Amherft, whofc flag was flying on board the Ocean, with thirteen guns, and he returned the compliment with eleven. It was the firft objeft of our care, on arriving at Ply- mouth, to replace the water and provifions that we had expended, and to receive on board a fijpply of Port Wine. This was the employment which occupied us on the ift and 2d of July. During our ftay here, the crews were ferved with frefi* beef every day- And I fliould not do juftic« to Mr. Omman- ney, the Agent Victualler, if I did not take this opportuniry to mention, that he Ihewed a very obliging readinefs to fur- nifli me with the beft of every thing that lay within his de- ' partment. Sunday 30. Monday i. Tuefday 2. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. partmenr. I had been under the like obligations to him on yj^- my fetting out upon my lad voyage. Commiflioner Our- ' — ,r— ' ry, with equal zeal for the fervice, gave us every afliftance that we wanted from the naval yard. It could not but occur to us as a Angular and afFedling circuinftance, thr i at the very inftant of our departure upon a voyage, the obje(5l of which was to benefit Europe by making frefli difcoveries in North America, there fhould be the unhappy neceflity of employing others of his Majefty's fhips, and of conveying numerous bodies of land forces, to I'ecure the obedience of thofe parts of that continent which had been difcovcred and fettled by our countrymen in the laft century. On the 6th, his Majefty's (hips Diamond, Am- Saturday 6, bufcade, and Unicorn, with a fleet of tranfports, confiding of fixty-two fail, bound to America, with the laft divifion of the Heflian troops, and fome horfe, were forced into the Sound by a flrong North Weft Wind. On the 8th, I received, by exprefs, my inftru(Jlions * for Monday 8. the voyage, and an order to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope with the Refolution. I was alfo dire(5led to leave an order for Captain Gierke to follow us, as foon as he fliould join his fhip ; he being, at this time, detained in London. Our firft difco'erers of the New World, and navigators of the Indian and Pacific Oceans, were juftly thought to hav exerted fuch uncommon abilities, and to have accompli'^ ic:d fuch perilous enterprizes, that their names have been haiid- ed down to pofterity as fo many Argonauts. Nay, even the hulks of the fliips that carried them, though not con- vened into conllellations in the Heavens, ufed to be honoured and vifited as facred reliques upon earth. We, in the pre- '.ij M * See the inflrudions, in the Introdudion. Vol. I. fcnt v< A V O Y A G r O 1776. July. •1* TuefJay 9. fcnt age of improved navigation, who have been inftrudlcd by their labours, and have followed ihem as our guides, have no fuch claim to fame. Some merit, however, being flill, in the public opinion, confidered as due to thofe who fail to unexplored quarters of the globe, in conformity to this favourable judgment, I prefixed to the account of my laft voyage the names of the officers of both my fliips, and a table of the number of their refpe6tive crews. The like information will be expecfted from me at prefent. The Refolution was fitted out with the fame complement of officers and men flie had before ; and the Difcovery's eflablifhment varied from that of the Adventure, in the fingle inftance of her having no marine officer on board. This arrangement was to be finally completed at Plymouth; and, on the gth, we received the party of marines allotted for our voyage. Colonel Bell, who commanded the divifion at this port, gave me fuch men for the detachment as I had reafon to be fatisfied with. And the fupernumerary feamen* cccafioned by this reinforcement, being turned over into the Ocean man of war, our feveral complements remained fixed, as rcprefcnied in the following table ; THE PACIFIC OCEAN. II R E S I . U T I O N. DISCOVERY. July, Officers and Men. N' I Officers Names, N° I Officers Niwies. Captain, ^ James Cook. ' Charles Clerke. Lieutenants, 3 John Gore. James King. John Williamfon. 2 James Burney, John Rickman. 1 Mafter, m I William Bligh. - I Thomas Edgar. Boatlwain, - I William Ewin. I Kneas Atkins. Carpenter, Gunner, - I I James Clevely. Robert Anderlbn. 1 I Peter Reynolds. William Peckover. Surgeon, Matter's Mates, - I 3 William Anderfon. I 2 John Law. Midfhipmen, Surgeon's Mates, Captain's Clerk, Mafter at Arms, - 6 2 I I ■" • ~ 4 2 I I I ' t Corporal, Armourer, - I I I Ditto Mate, - — I . . . I . Sail Maker, - - I - - - I , Ditto Mate, - I - i| Boatfwain's Mates, 3 2 Carpenter's Ditto, Gunner's Ditto, , 3 1 — a« _ 2 I ' Carpenter's Crew, Cook, . 4 I a ■» — 4 I 1 * ■ , ; ' • Ditto Mate, - - I , 1 ■ Quarter Matters, - 6 m 4 "'■-■ rj^; -.,,'" Able Seamen, - - 45 Marines. ZZ 1, h.i. J ,1/. Lieutenant, - I Molefworth Philips. -' . ^ i Serjeant, Corporals, Drummer, I 2 I - I I I •'.'■■■ \ . '■'''■ Private, - 15 - 8 -.. ' ■ , ... ,...,; Total, 1 112 80 •: • ,.. .. . C 2 A VOYAGE TO 1776. July. Mi- ll- Wednef. 10. On the loth, the Commiflioner and Pay Clerks came on board, and paid the officers and crew up to the 30th of lad month. The petty officers and feamcn had, befides, two months wages in advance. Such indulgence to the latter, is no more than what is cudomary in the navy. But the pay- ment of what was due to the fuperior officers was humanely ordered by the Admirahy, in confideration of our peculiar fituation, that we might be better able to defray the very great cxpence of furnifliing ourlelves with a (lock of necef- faries for a voyage which, probably, would be of unufual duration, and to regions where no fupply could be expedled. Nothing now obftrufting my departure but a contrary wind, which blew (Irong at South Weil, in the morning of Thurfdayii. the iiih, I delivered into the hands of Mr. Burney, firfl Lieutenant of the Difcovery, Captain Gierke's failing orders; a copy of which I alfo left with the Officer ♦ commanding his Majefty's (hips at Plymouth, to be delivered to the Cap- tain immediately on his arrival. In the afternoon, the wind moderating, we weighed with the ebb, and got farther our,, beyond all the (hipping in the Sound ; where, after making- an unfuccefsful attempt ta get to fea, we were detained Friday la. mofl of the following day, which was employed in receiv- ing on board a fupply of water; and, by the fame veflel that brought it, all the empty cafks were returned. As I did not imagine my (lay at Plymouth would have been fo long as it proved, we did not get our indruments on (hore to make the necefliiry obfervations for afcertaining the longitude by the watch. For the fame reafon, Mr. Baily did not fet about this, till he found that the Difcovery would,. i HI "ii a I * Captain Lc Cnfs, Admiral Amberft having firuck his flag foioe days before. 4, . . probably*. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. probably^ be detained fome days after us. He then placed his quadrant upon Drake's Ifland ; and had time, before the Refolution failed, to make obfervations fuflicient for the purpofe we had in view. Our watch made the ifland to lie 4' 14', and his, 4' 13;', Weft of Greenwich. Its latitude, as found by Mefll's. Wales and Bally, on the laft voyage, is 50° 21' 30" North. We weighed again at eight in the evening, and flood out of the Sound, with a gentle breeze at North Weft by Weft. '3 1776. July. CHAP. 14 -1 '4.,v , f A VOYAGE TO i t i:;> vii^v: 1). : " -'^ 'C HAP. ir. Tajfage of the Refolutlon to Teneriffe. — Reception there, — Defcnptmi of Santa Cruz Road. — RefreJJjments to be ' met with, — Obfervatmts for fixing' the Lofigitude of \ 'Teneriffe, — Some Account of the J (land. — Botanical Ob- fervations. — Cities of Santa C?'uz and Laguna. — - Agriculture. — Air and Climate. — Commerce. — Inha^ bitafits* r776. July. « „ / Friday i2. Sunday 14. Tu:-fday 16. Wednef. 17. i;hurfdayi8. f T T E had noi been long out of Plymouth Sound, before '^ * the wind came more wefterly, and blew frefh, fo that we were obliged to ply down the Channel j and it was not till the 14th, at eight in the evening, that we were off the Lizard. On the 16th, at noon, St. Agnes's Light-houfe on the Ifles of Scilly, bore North Weft by Weil, diftant feven or eight miles. Our latitude was, now, 49° 53' 30" North, and our longitude, by the watch, 6° 11' Weft. Hence, I reckon that St. Agnes's Light-houfe is in 49° 57' 30" North latitude, and in 6" 20' of Weft longitude. On the 17th * and iSth we were off Ufliant, and found the longitude of the illand to be, by the watch, 5° 18' 37" Weft. Tlie variation was 23° o' 50", in the fame direction, * It appears from Captain Cook's log-book, that he began his judicious operations for prefcrving the health of his crew, very rirly in the voyage. On he 17th, the ftiip was fmoked between decks with gun-powder. The fpare fails alfo were then ^rell aired. % With THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ^S 1776. July. Friday 19. With a llrong gale at South, on the igth, we (lood to the weftward, till eight o'clock in the morning; when, the wind fliifting to the Weft and North Weft, we tacked and ftretch- ed to the Southward. At this time, we faw nine fail of large ftiips, which we judged to be French men of wan .%: / They took no particular notice of us, nor we of them. At ten o'clock in the morning of the 22d, we faw Cape Monday z:. Ortegal; which at noon bore South Eaft, half South, about four leagues diftant. At this time we were in the latitude of 44° 6' North ; and our longitude, by the watch, was 8"* 23' Weft. . . , After two days of calm weather wc pafled Cape Fini- fterre, on the afternoon of the 24ih, with a fine gale at wednef, 24. North North Eaft. The longitude of this Cape, by the watch, is 9° 29' Weft J and, by the mean of forty-one lunar obfervations, made before and after we pafled it, and re- duced to it by the watch, the refult was 9° 19' 12". On the 30th, at fix minutes and thirty-eight feconds pafl: xuefday 30. ten o'clock at night, apparent time, I obferved, with a night telefcope, the moon totally eclipfed. By the ephemeris, the fame happened at Greenwich at nine minutes paft ele- ven o'clock ; the difference being one hour, two minutes* and twenty-two feconds, or 15° ^s' 3°" of longitude. The watcli, for the fame time, gave 15° 26' 4.5" longitude Weft; and latitude 31° 10' North. No other obfcrvation couid be made on this eclipfe, as the moon was hid behind the clouds the greater part of the time ; and, in particular, when the beginning and end of total darknefs, and the end. of the eclipfe, happened. Finding that we had not hay and corn fufficient for the fubfifteuce of the ftock of animals on board, till our arrival ac :K m J d I. ■ii^' P 16 A VOYAGE TO :i 1 Auguft. Thurl'day i at the Cape of Good Hope, I determined to touch at Tene- riffe, to get a fupply of thefe, and of the ufual refrefliments for ourfelves ; thinking that ifland, for fuch purpofes, bet- ter adapted than Madeira. At four in the afternoon of the Wednef. 31. 31ft, we faw TencrifFc, and fleered for the eaftern part. At nine, being near it, we haukd upt and flood oS and on during the night. At day-light, on the morning of the ifl of Augufl, we failed round the Eafl Point of the ifland ; and, about eight o'clock, anchored on the South Eafl fide of it, in the Road of Santa Cruz, in twenty-three fathoms water j the bottom, fand and owze. Punta de Nago, the Eafl point of the Road, bore North 64° Eail ; St. Francis's church, remarkable for its high fleeple, Weft South Weft j the Pic, South 65° Weft ; and the South Weft point of the Road, on which ftands a fort or caftle, South 39° Weft. In this fituation, we moored North Eaft and South Weft, with a cable each way, being near half a mile from the fhore. We found, riding in this Road, La BoufTole, a French fri- gate, commanded by the Chevalier de Borda ; two brigantines of the fame nation ; an Englifh brigantine from London, bound to Senegal ; and fourteen fail of Spanifh vefTels. No fooner had we anchored, than we were vifited by the Mafter of the Port, who fatisfied himfelf with afking the fhip's name. Upon his leaving us, I fent an officer afhore, to prefent my refpedls to the Governor ; and to afk his leave to take in water, and to purchafe fuch articles as we were in want of. All this he granted with the greateft politenefs; and, foon after, fent an officer on board, to compliment me on my arrival. In the afternoon, I waited upon him in per- foD, accompanied by fome of my officers ; and, before I returned THE PACIFIC OCEAN. returned to my fliip, befpoke fome corn and ftraw for the live flock ; ordered a quantity of wine from Mr. JVl'Carrick, the contractor, and made an agreement with the mafter of a Spanifh boat to fupply us with water, as I found that we could not do it ourfelves. The road of Santa Cruz is fituated before the town of the fame name, on the South Eaft fide of the iiland. It is, as I am told, the principal road of TenerifFe, for flielter, capa- city, and the goodnefs of its bottom. It lies entirely open to the South Eaft and South winds. But thefe winds are never of long continuance; and, they fay, there is not an inftance * of a fhip driving from her anchors on fhore. This may, in part, be owing to the great care they take in mooring them $ for I obferved, that all the fhips we met with there, had four anchors out j two to the North Eaft, and two to the South Weft; and their cables buoyed up with cafks. Ours fuffered a little by not obferving this laft pre- caution. , . At the South Weft part of the road, a ftone pier runs out into the fea from the town, for the convenience of loading and landing of goods. To this pier, the water that fupplies the (hipping is conveyed. This, as alfo what the inhabit- ants of Santa Ct uz ufe, is derived from a rivulet that runs from the hills, the greateft part of which comes into the town in wooden fpouts or troughs, that are fupported by flender pofts, and the remainder doth not reach the fea ; though it is evident, from the fize of the channel, that * Though no fuch inftance was known to thofe from whom Captain Cook had this information,, we learn from Gl.is, that yiw? years before he was at TenerifFe, almoft all the Jhipp'mg in the road ivcre driven on Jljore. See Glas's Hijl. of the Canary Ijlands^ p. 235. Wc may well fuppofe the precautions now ufed, have prevented any more fuch accidents happening. This will fufficiently juftlfy Captain Cook's account. Vol. I. ■ D fometimcs »r 1776. Auguft. ll .V A VOYAGE TO 1776. Auguft. fometimes large torrents rufh down. At this time thefe troughs were repairing, fo that frefli water, which is very- good here, was fcarce. , ^ Were we to judge from the appearance of the country in the neighbourhood of Santa Cruz, it might be concluded that TenerifFe is a barren fpot, infufficient to maintain even its own inhabitants. The ample fupplies, however, which we received, convinced us that they had enough to fpare for vifitors. Befides vi'ine, which is the chief produce of the illand, beef may be had at a moderate price. The oxen are fmall and boney, and weigh about ninety pounds a quar- ter. The meat is but lean, and was, at prefenr, fold for half a bit (three pence fterling) a pound. I, unadvifedly, bought the bullocks alive, and paid confiderably moie. Hogs, flieep, goats and poultry, are likewife to be bought at the fame moderate rate ; and fruits are in great plenty. At this time we had grapes, figs, pears, mulberries, plan- tains, and mufk melons. There is a variety of other fruits produced here, though not in feafon at this time. Their pumpkins, onions, and potatoes, are exceedingly good of their kind, and keep better at fea than any 1 ever before met with. •.,..'■, * The Indian corn, which is alfo their produce, coft me about three fhillings and fixpence a buftiel ; and the fruits and roots were, in general, very cheap. They have not any- plentiful fupply of fiQi from the adjoining fea ; but a very confiderable fifhery is carried on by their veflels upon the coaft of Barbary ; and the produce of it fellp at a reafonable price. Upon the whole, I found Teneriffe to be a more eligible place than Madeira, forfhips bound on long voyages to touch at i though the wine of the latter, according to my tafte, M-\ %L\J'-^'' THE PACIFIC OCEAN. tafte, is as much fuperior to that of the former, as ftrong beer is to fmall. To compenfate for this, the difference of prices is confiderable ; for the bell Tencriffe wine was now fold for twelve pounds a pipe ; whereas a pipe of the beft Madeira would have coft confiderably more than double that fum*. ', ..( The Chevalier de Borda, Commander of the French fri- gate now lying in Santa Cruz road, was employed, in con- jundlion with Mr. Varila, a Spanifli Gentleman, in making aftronomical obfervations for afcertaining the going of two time-keepers which they had on board their Ihip. For this purpofe, they had a tent pitched on the pier head, where they made their obfervations, and compared their watches, every day at noon, with the clock on (hore, by fignals. Thefe fignals the Chevalier very obligingly communicated to us; fo that we could compare our watch at the fame time. But our flay was too fhorr, to profit much by his kindnefs. ■.i The three days comparifons which we made, affured us that the watch had not materially, if at all, altered her rate of going; and gave us the fame longitude, within a very few feconds, that was obtained by finding the time from obfervations of the fun's altitude from the horizon of *the fea. The watch, from a mean of thefe obfervations, the ill, ad, and 3d of Auguft, made the longitude 16° n on ^,1 * Formerly, there was made at T'cncriffe a great quantity of Canary fack, which the ¥ rench ca.\iy in de Mahe/ie; and we, corruptly after them, name Malnifey (from Malvefia, a town in the Morea, famous for fuch lufcious wine). In the laft century, and ftill later, much of this was imported into England; but little wine is now made there, but of the fort defcribed by Ciiptain Cook, Not more than fifty pipes of the rich Canary was annually made in Glas's time ; and he fays, they now gather the grapes when green, and make a dry hard winv of them, fit for hoi climate?, p. 262. , Da . Weftj 1776. Auguft. 1 Auguft. V— V A VOYAGE TO "^ Weil; and, in like manner, the latitude was found to be 28° 30' 1 1" North. Mr. Varila informed us, that the true longitude was 18° 35' 30", from Paris, which is only 16° 16' 30" from Greenwich; lefs than what our watch gave by 14' 30". But, far from look- ing upon this as an error in the watch, I rather think it a con- firmation of its having gone well ; and that the longitude by it may be nearer the truth than any other. It is farther confirmed by the lunar obfervations that we made in the road, which gave 16' 37' 10". Thofe made before we ar- rived, and reduced to the road by the watch, gave 16° 33' 30" : and thofe made after we left it, and reduced back in the fame manner, gave 16° 28'. The mean of the three is 16° 30' 40". To reduce thefe feveral longitudes, and the latitude, to the Pic of Teneriffe, one of the mcft noted points of land with Geographers (to obtain the true fituation of which, I have entered into this particular difcuffion), I had recourfe to the bearing, and a few hours of the (hip's run after leav- ing Santa Cruz road; and found it to be la' 11" South of the road, and 29' 30" of longitude Weft of it. As the bafe, which helped to determine this, was partly eftimated, it is liable to fome error ; but I think I cannot be much miftaken. Dr. Mafkelyne, in his Briti/h Mariners Guide^ places the Pic in the latitude of 28° 12' 54". This, with the bearing from the road, will give the difference of longitude 43', which tonfiderably exceeds the diftance they reckon the Pic to be from Santa Cruz. I made the latitude of the Pic to be 28° 18' North. Upon that fuppofition, its longitude will be as follows : i* I By I '■ 'f i THE PACIFIC OCEAN. •I {The Time-keeper - 17* o' 30" i . . 1 Lunar obfervations - 16° 30' 20" J- Weft. Mr. Varila - - 16° 46' o"J But if the latitude of it is 28' 12' 54", as in the Britipj Mari- net's Guide, its longitude will be 13' 30" more wefterly. The variation, when we were at anchor in the road, by the mean of all our compafles, was found to be 14° 41' 20" Weft. The dip of the North end of the needle was 61° 52' 30 . Some of Mr. Anderfon's remarks on the natural appear- ances of r enerifFe, and its produ<51:ions ; and what he obferved himfelf, or learnt by information, about the general ftatc of the ifland, will be of ufe, particularly in marking what changes may have happened there lince Mr. Glas vifited it. They here follow in his own words : " While we were ftanding in /or the land, the weather being perfectly clear, we had an opportunity of feeing the celebrated Pic of TenerifFe. But, I own, I was much difap- pointed in my expe(?lation with refpeft to its appearance, it is, certainly, far from equalling the noble figure of Pico, one of the weftern illes which I have leen ; though its per- pendicular height may be greater. This circumrtancc, per- haps, arifes from its being furrounded by other very high hills; whereas Pico (lands without a rival. Behind the city of Santa Cruz, the country rifes gradu- ally, and is of a moderate height. Ikyond this, to the South Weftward, it becomes higher, and continues to rife towards the Pic, which, trom the road, appears but little higher thar^ the furrounding hills. From thence it fcenis to decreafe, though not fuddenly, as far as the eye can reach. From a fuppofition that wi; fliould not ilay above one day, 1 was 1776. Auguft. "m M ;| L^i I m h n m 1776. Auguft. < M » A V Y A G E T O I was obliged to contmft my excurfions into the country ; otherwife, I had propofed to vifit the top of this famous mountain *. To the eaftward of Santa Cruz, the ifland appears per- fe(5lly barren. Ridges of hills run towards the fea ; between which ridges are deep valleys, terminating at mountains or hills that run acrofs, and are higher than the former. Thofe that run towards the fea, are marked by impreflions on their fides, which make them appear as a fucceflion of conic hills, with their tops very rugged. The higher ones that run acrofs, are more uniform in their appearance. In the forenoon of the ifl: of Auguft, after we had an- chored in the road, I went on fliore 10 one of thefe valleys, with an intention to reach the top of the remoter hills, which feemed covered with wood; but time would not allow me to get farther than their foot. After walking about three miles, I founci no alteration in the appearance of the lower hills; which produce great quantities of the euphorbia Canarienfis. It is furprifing that this large fucculenc plant, ihould thrive on fo burnt-up a foil. When broken, which is eafily done, tlie quantity of juice is very great; and it might be fuppofed that, when dried, it would fhrivel to nothing; yet it is a pretty tough, though foft and light * See an account of a journey to the top of the Pic of TenerifFe, in Sprat's Hilary of the Royal Society, p. 200, &c. Glas alfo went to the top of it. Hijiory of the Ca- nary If.amls, p. 252 to 259. In the Philofophical Tranfadtions, vol. xlvii. p. 353 — 356, we have Ohfervations made., in going up the Pic of Teneriffe, by Dr. T. Heber- den. 7 he Doiior malces its height, above the levei of the fea, to be 2566 fathoms, or 15,396 Englifli feet; and fays, that this was confirmed by two fubfequent ohferva- tions by himfelf, and another made by Mr. Crolle, the Conful. And yet, I find, that the Chevalier de Borda, who meafured the height of this mountain in Auguft 1^76, malccs it to be only 1931 French toifes, or 12,340 Englifli feet. See Do(^lor Foriler's Ohfervaiiom during a Voyage round the World, p. 32. . * wood. i i^'liit ■ V- W ■! THE PACIFIC OCEAN. «3 wood. The people here believe its juice to be fo cauftic as to erode the fkin * ; but I convinced them, though with much difficulty, to the contrary, by thrufting my finger into the plant full of it, without afterwards wiping it off. They break down the buflies of euphorbia, and fuffering them to dry, carry them home for fuel. I met with nothing elfe growing there, but two or three fmall flirubs, and a few fig-trees near the bottom of the valley. The bafis of the hills is a heavy, compact:, blueifli ftone, mixed with fome Hiining particles ; and, on the furface, large maffes of red friable earth, or ftone, are fcattered about. I alio o'ten found the fame fubftance difpofed in thick Jlrata ; and the Utile earth, ftrewed here and there, was a blackifli moulc. There were likewife fome pieces of flag; one of which, from its weight and fmooth furface, feemed almoll wholly metalline. • - ■ The mouldering ftate of thefe hills is, doubtlefs, owing to the perpetual aflion of the fun, which calcines their furface. This mouldered part being afterwards walhed away by the heavy rains, perhaps is the caufe of their fides being fo uneven. For, as the different fubftances of which they are compofed, are more or lefs eafily affed:ed by the fun's heat, they will be carried away in the like propor- tions. Hence, perhaps, the tops of the hills, being of the hardefi rock, have flood, while the other parts on a decli- vity have been deftroyed. As I have ufually obferved, that the tops of moft mountains that are covered with trees have a more uniform appearance, I am inclined to believe that this is owing to their being fhaded. . . , i * Glas, p. 231, fpeaking of this plant, fays, that ki- cannot imagine why the natives of the Canaries 1 not extrait the juice, and ufe it injlead of pitch, for the bottoms of their boats. We now learn from Mr. Anderfon their realon for not uling it. 3 T^e 1776. Augud. f' m 24 Augud. Friday 2* '! ► A VOYAGE TO - The city of Santa Cruz, though not large, is tolerably well built. The churches are not magnificent without; but within are decent, and indifFerently ornamented. They arc inferior to fome of the churches at Madeira ; but, I imagine, this rather ariles from the different difpofition of the people, than from their inability to fupport them belter. For the private houfcs, and drefs of the Spanilh inhabitants of Santa Cruz, are far preferable to thofe of the Portuguefe at Madeira ; who, perhaps, are willing to flrip themfelves, that they may adorn their churches. Almoft facing the ftone pier at the landing-place, is a handfome marble column lately put up, ornamented with fome human figures, that do no difcredit to the artid; with an infcription in Spani(h, to commemorate the occafion of the eredlion } and the date. In the afternoon of the 2d, four of us hired mules to ride to the city of La;»una *, fo called from an adjoining lake, about four miles from Santa Cruz- We arrived there be- tween five and fix in the evening ; but found a fight of it very unable to compenfate for our trouble, as the road was very bad, and the mu'es but indifTereiit. The place is, in- deed, pretty extcufive, but fcarcely deferves to be dignified with the name of City. The difpofition of its ftreers is very irregular; yet fome of them are of a tolerable breadth, and have fome good houfcs. In general, however, Laguna is inferior in appearance to Santa Cruz, though the latter is but fmall, if compared with the former. We were inform- ed, likewife, that Laguna is declining fad ; there bemg, at * Its extend'Tl name is St. Chriftobal de la Laguna; and it uftd to be reckoned the cp.i-l ui' uk; id ind, the gentry and lawyers living there ; though the Governor Ge- neral of cne Canary iflands relides at Santa Cruz, as being the center of tlieir nade, both with Europe and America. Sec Glas's Hiji, p. 248. .,1 9. prefenr, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. prefent, fome vineyards where houfca formerly lloodi whereas Santa Cruz is encrcafmg daily. ' The road leading from Santa Cruz to Laguna runs up a deep hill, which is very barren ; but, lower down, we faw fome fig-trees, and fevcral corn fields. Thcfe are but fmall, and not thrown into ridges, as is pracflifed in England. Nor does it appear that they can raife any corn here without great labour, as the ground is fo encumbered with ftones, that they are obliged to colled and lay them in broad rows, or walls, at fmall diftances. The large hills that run to the South- weft, appeared to be pretty well furnilhed with trees. Nothing clfe worth noticing prefcnted itfclf during this excurfion, except a few aloe plants in flower, near the fide of the road, and the cheerfulnefs of our guides, who amufed us with fongs by the way. Moft of the laborious work in this ifland is performed by mules; horfes being to appearance fcarce, and chiefly referved for the ufe of the oflicers. They are of a fmall fize, but well fhaped and fpirited. Oxen are alfo employed to drag their caflcs along upon a large clumfy piece of wood; and they are yoked by the head ; though it doth not feem that this has any peculiar advantage over our method of fixing the harnefs on the fhoulders. In my walks and ex- tarfions I faw fome hawks, parrots, which are natives of t'^e ifland, the fea fwallow or tern, fea gulls, partridges, wag- tails, fwallows, martins, blackbirds, and Canary-birds in large flocks. There are alfo lizards of the common, and another fort ; fome infe<5ts, as loeufts ; and three or four forts of dragon flies. I had an opportunity of converfing with a fenfible and well-informed gentleman refiding here, and whofe veracity Vol. I. E * I have •5 1776. Auguft. n •a 1776. Augult. ii!; ' A VOYAGE TO' I have not the lead rcafon to doubt. From him I learnt feme particulars, wlilch, during the fliort ftay of three day9» did not fall within my own ohicrvaiion. He informed nic, that a (hrub is common here, a«;reeing cxinflly witli the delcrip- tion given by Tourncfort and Linna;us, of the tea Jhnib^ as growing in China and Japan. It is reckoned a weed, and he root'; cut thoufands of them every year, from his vine- yards. The Spaniards, however, of the ifland, fometimes tife it as tea, and afcribc to ic all the qualities of that im- ported from China. They alfo give it the name of ^f^. j but "wha: is remarkable, they fay it was found here when the iftands were firft difcovercd. Another botanical curioHty, mentioned by him, is what they call the impregnated lemon *. It is a petfedl and diilinft lemon, inclofed within another, differing from the outer one only in being a little more globular. The leaves of the tree that produces this fort, are much longer than thofe of the common one; and it was reprefenied to me as being crooked, and not equal in beauty. From him I learnt alfo, that a certain fort of grape grow- ing here, is reckoned an excellent remedy in phthifical complaints. And the air and climate, in general, are re- markably healthful, and particularly adapted to give relief in fuch difeafes. This he endeavoured to account for, by its being always in one's power to procure a different tem- perature of the air, by refiding at different heights in the ifland ; and he exprefled his furprize that the Englifli phy- licians fhould never have thought of fending their con- fumptive paric nts to Teneriffe, inftead of Nice or Lilbon. ♦ The Writer of the Rtlation of Teneriffe, in Sprat'' s Hifloryy p. 207, takes notice of this lemon as produced here, and calls it Pregnada, Probably, emprtnaaJa, the Spa. niih word for in.pregnatti, is the lume it goes by, 4 How ! I THE PACIFIC OCEAN. How much the temperature of the air varies here, I myfclf could fenfiby perceive, only in riding from Santa Cru? up to Laguna-, and you may afcend till the cold becomes intole- rable. I wa3 aflured that no pcrfon can live comfortably within a mile of the perpendicular height of the Pic, after the month of Auguft •. Although fomc fmokc conflantly iflues from near the top of the Pic, they have had no earthquake or eruption of a volcano fince 1704, when the port of Garrachica, where much of their trade was formerly carried on, was deftroy- ed f. Their trade, indeed, mud be confidercd as very confider- able ; for they reckon that forty thoufand pipes of wine are annually made; the greateft part of which is either con- fumed in the ifland, or made into brandy, and fent to the Spanifh Weft Indies if. About fix thoufand pipes were ex- ported every year to North America, while the trade with it 1776. Augud. • This agrees with Dr. T. Hcb.crden's account, who fays that the fugar-loaf part of the mountain, or la pericofa (as it is called), which is an eighth part of a leagut (or 1980 feet) to the top, is covered with fnow the greateji part of the year. Sec Philofo' phical TranfaiiionSi as quoted above. •J- This port was then filled up by the rivers of burning lava that flowed into it from a volcano ; infomuch that houfcs arc now built where (hips formerly lay at anchor. See Gias's Hijl, p. 244. \ Glas., p. 342, fays, that they annually export no lefs than fifteen thoufand pipes of wine and brandy. In another place, p. 252, he tells us, that the number of the inhabitants of Tencriffe, when the laft account was taken, was no lefs than 96,000. We may rcafonably fuppofe that there has been a confiderable increafe of population fmcc Glas vifitcd the iiland, which is above thirty years ago. The quantity of wine annually confumed, as the common beverage of at leaft one hundred thoufand pcrfons, muft amount to feveral thoufand pipes. There muft be a vaft expenditure of it, by converfion into brandy j to produce one pipe of which, five or fix pipes of wine muft be diftilled. An attention to thefc particulars will enable every one to judge, that the account given to Mr. Andcrfon, of an annual produce of 40,000 pipes of wine, has a fpundation in truth. ^ E 2 was f» A VOYAGE TO 1776. Augurt. if! was uninterrupted; at prefent, they think not above half the quantity. Ihe corn they raife is, in general, infufE- cient to maintain the inliabitants j but the deficiency ufed^ to be fupplied by importation from the North Americans, who took their wines in return. They make a little filk ; but unlefs we reckon the filter- ing-Hones, brought in great numbers from Grand Canary,, the wine is the only conljderable article of the foreign com*^ iTQcrce of Teneriffc. ' None of the race of inhabitantc found here when the Spa- niards difcovered the Canaries now remain a diftin(5l peo- ple *, having, intermarried with the Spanifli fettlers ; but their defcendants are known, from their being remarkably tall, large-boned, and ftrong. The men arc, in general, of a tawny colour, and the women have a pale complexion, entirely deftitute of that bloom which diftir^uiflics our Nortliern beauties. The Spanifli cuilom of wearing black cloihcs continues amongft them\ but the men feem more indifferent about this, and, in fome meafure, drcfs like the French. In other refpe(3:s, we found, the inhabitants of TenerifFe to be a decent and very civil people, retaining that grave caft which diftinguiflies thofe of their country i^rom other European nations. Although we do not think that there is a great fimilarity between our manners and thofe of the Spaniards, it is worth obferving, that Omai did not think there was much difference. He only faid, that they feemcd not fb friendly as the Englifli ; and that, in their pcrfons, they approached thofe of his countrymen." a * It was otherwife in Glas's time, when a few families of the Guanches (as they are culled) remained ftili in Tenerifi'e> not blended with the Spaniards. Glast p. 240. CHAP. u THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 29 CHAP. III. Departure from Teneriffe. — Danger of the Ship near Bo- navijfa — IJle of Mayo. — Port Praya^ — Precautions againji the Rain and fultry Weather in the Neighbour- hood of the Equator. — Pofition of the Coaji of Brazil. — A(rival at the Cape of Good Hope. — Tranfa&ions there. — funEfio?! of the Difcovery. — Mr. Anderfons yourrrey up the Country. — Ajlronojfiical Obfervations. — Nautical Remarks on the Pcjfage from England to the Cape^ with- regard to the Curre?its and the Variation^ ■ * - ( ■ HAVING completed our water, and got on board every 1776. other thing we wanted at TenerifFe, we weighed an- ,J^^'il^ chor on the 4th of Auguft, and proceeded on our voyage, Sunday 4. with a fine gale at North Eaft. . At nine o'clock in the evening on the loth *, we faw the Saturday 10. ifland of Bonavifla bearing South, diftant little more than a league ; though, at this time, we thought ourl'elves much farther off; but this proved a miftake. Tor, after hauling to the Eaftward till twelve o'clock, to clear the funken recks that lie about a league from the oouth Eaft point of the ifland, we found ourfelves, at that time, clofe upon them, * As a proof of Captain Cook's attention, both to the difcipline and to the health of his ftiip's company, it may be worth while to obfervc here, that it appears from his log-bjok, he exercifed them at great guns and fmall arms, and chared and fmoked tlx flA^ bthiv decks, iwice in the interval between the 4tb and the jcth of Aiiguft. and t'nf m li:^ s« A VOYAGE TO •776- and did but juft weather the breakers. Our fituation, for a v^ — „ — J few minutes, was very alarming. I did not chufe to found, as that might have heightened the danger, without any poffibility of leflening it. I make the North end of the ifland of Bonavifta to lie in the latitude of 16° 17' North, and in the longitude of 22° 59' Weft. Sunday II. As foon as we were clear of the rocks, we fteered South South Weft, till day-break next morning, and then hauled to the Weftward, to go between Eonavifta and the ifle of Mayo, intending to look into Port Pray." for the Difcovery, as I had told Captain Gierke that I Ihould touch there, and did not know how foon he might fail after me. At one in the afternoon, we faw the rocks that lie on the South Weft Ade of Bonavifta, bearing South Eaft, diftant three or four leagues. Next morning, at fix o'clock, the ifle of Mayo bore South Monday 12. South Eaft, diftant about five leagues. In this fituation wc founded, and found ground at fixty fathoms. At th€ fame time the variation, by the mean of feveral azimuths taken with three different compafles, -was 9" 324.' Weft. At eleven o'clock, one extreme of Mayo boreEaft by North, and the other South Eaft by South. In this pofition, two roundifh hills appeared near its North Eaft part j farther on, a 1 irge and higher hill; and, at about two-thirds of its length, a fingle one that is peaked. At the diftance we now faw this ifland, which was three or four miles, there was not the leaft ap- pearance of vegetation, nor any relief to the eye from that lifelefs brown which prevails in countries under the Torrid Zone that arc unwooded. Jiere I cannot help remarking that Mr. Nichelfon, in his Preface to Sundry Remarks and Obfervntions made in a Voyage to the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 3^ theEafi Indies * tclls us, that " with eight degrees Weft va- •• riation, or any thing above that, you may venture to fail " by the Cape de Verde Iflands night or day, being well •* allured, with that variation, that you are to the Eaftward •* of them." Such an afTertion might prove of dangerous Confequence, were there any that would implicitly truft to it. We alfo tried the current, and found one fetting South Weft by Weft, fomething more than half a mile an hour. We had reafon to expe(5t this, from the differences between the longitude given by the watch and dead reckoning, which,, fince our leaving Teneriffe, amounted to one degree. While we were amongft thefe iflands we had light breezes of wind, varying from the South Eaft to Eaft, and fome calms. This fhews that the Cape de Verde Iflands arc cither extenfive enough to break the current of the trade wind, or that they arc fituated jqft beyond its verge, in that fpace where the variable winds,, found on getting near the line, begin. The lirft fuppofition, however, is the moft probable, as Dampier -f found the wind wefterlyhere in the month of February ; at which time the trade wind is fup- pofed to extend fartheft towards the equino6lial. The wea- ther was hot and fultry, with fome rain ; and, for the moft part, a dull whitenefs prevailed in the Iky, that fcems a. medium between fog and clouds. In general, the tropical regions feldom enjoy that clear atmofphcre obfervable where variable winds blowj nor docs the fun fliine with fuch brightnefs. This circumftance, however, fcems an< advantage ; for otherwife, perhaps,, the rays of the fun^ being, uninterrupted, would render the heat quite unfup- • On board his Majefty's (hip Elizabeth, from 1758 to 17645 by William Ni*^ chelfon, Mafter.of the faid Ship. London, 1773. •f Dampier's Voyages, Vol. iii. p. JO. portable. 1776. M m i 1 s* A VOYAGE TO 1776. portable. The nights are, neverthelefs, often clear and Aueult. * '-' Ttiefday 13. -' ferene. At nine o'clock in the morning of the 13th, we arrived before Port Praya, in the ifla.id of St. Jago, where we faw two Dutch Eaft India fhips, and a fmall brigantinc at an- chor. As the Difcovery was not there, and we had expended but little water in our palTage from Teneriffe, I did not think proper to go in, but flood to the Southward. Some altitudes of the Sun were now taken, to afccrtain the true time. The longitude by the watch, deduced therefrom, was 23° 48' Weft; the little ifland in the bay bore Weft North Weft, diftant near three miles, which will make its longi- tude 23° 51'. The fame watch, on my late voyage, made ■ the longitude to be 23° 30' Weft; and we obfervcd the lati- tude to be 14° 53' 30" North. Wednef. 14. The day after we left the Cape de Verde Iflands, we loft the North Eaft trade wind ; but did not get that which blows Friday 30. from the South Eaft till the 30th, when we were in the lati- tude of 2° North, and in the twenty-fifth degree of Weft longitude. During this interval *, the wind was moftly in the South Weft quarter. Sometimes it blew frefli, and in fqualls ; but for the moft part a gentle breeze. The calms were few, and of fliort duration. Between the latitude of 12° and of 7° North, the weather was generally dark and gloomy, ^1 : * On the i8th, I funk a bucket with a thermometer fcventy fathoms below the furface of the fea, where it remained two miuutes; and it took three minutes more to baul it up. The mercury in the thermometer was at 66, which before, in the air, flood at 78, and in the furface of the fea at 79. The water which came up in the bucket contained, by Mr. Cavendifh's table, -iV» 7 part fait; and that at the furface of the fea Vi;» 4- As this laft was taken up after i fmart Ihowcr of rain, it might be lighter on that account. Captain Cook's log-hook. B with Id ■( THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 33? with frequent rains, which enabled us to Hive as much wa- ter as filled moil of our empty cafks. Thcfe rains, and the clofe fultry weather accompanying them, too often bring on ficknefs in this paflage. Every bad confequence, at lead, is to be apprehended from them ; and commanders of fliips cannot be tc^ much upon their guard, by purifying the air between decks with fires and fmoke, and by obliging the people to dry their clothes at every opportunity. Thefe precautions were conflantly ob- ferved on board the Rcfolution * and Difcovcry; and we certainly profited by them, for we had now fewer fick than on either of my former voyages. We had, however, the mortification to find our Ihip exceedingly leaky in all her upper works. The hot and fultry weather we had juft pafled through, h?d opened her feams, which had been badly caulked at firft, fo wide, that they admitted the rain water through as it fel'. There was hardly a man that could lie dry in his bed ; and the officers in the gun-room were all driven out of their cabbins, by the water that came through the fides. The fails in the fail-room got wet ; and before we had weather to dry them, many of them were much damaged, and a great expence of canvas and of time became neceiTary to make them in fome degree ferviceable. Having experienced the fame defedl in our fail-rooms on my late voyage, it had been reprefented to the yard officers, who undertook to remove it. But it did not appear to me that any ,tMng had been done to remedy the complaint. • The particulars are mentioned in his log-book. On the 14th of Auguft, a fire was made in the well, to air the fhip below. On the 15th, the fpare fails were aired upon deck, and a fire made to air the fail-room. On the 17th, cleaned and fmoked betwixt decks, and the bread-room aired with fires. On the 21 ft, cleaned and fmoked betwixt decks j and on the 22d, the men's bedding was fpread on deck to air. Vol. I. f To 1776. Auguft. m m S r.J V ; 'i u A VOYAGE TO ;i ''> Au^Si ''^^ repair thefe defefts the caulkers were fet to work, as V— V — ' foon as we got into fair fettled weather, to caulk the decks and infide weather- works of the fliip ; for I would not truft them over the fides while we were at fea. September. Sunday i. Saaday 8. On the firft of September * we crofled the Equator, in the longitude of 27° 38' Weft, with a fine gale at South Eaft by South ; and notwithftanding my apprehenfions of falling in with the coaft of Brazil in ftretchinj to the South Weft, I kept the fhip a full point from the wind. However, I found my fears were ill-grounded; for on drawing near that coaft, we met with the wind more and more eafterly ; fo that, by the time we were in the latitude of 1 0° South, we could make a South Eafterly courfe good. On the 8th, we were in the latitude of 8* 57' South; which is a little to the Southward of Cape St. Auguftme, on the coaft of Brafil. Our longitude, deduced from a very great number of lunar obfervations, was 34° 16' Weft j and by the ■if I gm * The afternoon, as appears from Mr. An^erfon's Journs^, was. (pent in perform- ing the old and ridiculous ceremony of ducking thofe who had not crofled the Equator before. Though Captain Cook did not fupprefs the cuftom, he thought it too trifling to deferve the leafl: mention of it in his Journal, or even in his log-book. Pernetty, the Writer of Bougainville's ^oyage to the Falkland Iflands, in 1763 and 1764, thought differently ; for his account of the celebration of this childifh feftival on board his fhip, is extended through feventeen pages, and makes the fubjcdt of an entire chap- ter, under the title of Baptme de h Ligne, It may be worth while to tranfcribe his introdudion to the defcription of it. " Ce'fl: *' un ufage qui ne remonte pas plus haut que ce voyage celebre de Gama, qui a fourni " z's Camoens le fujct dc la Lufiade. L'Idee qu'on ne f^auroit etre un bon marin, ** fans avoir travcrfe I'Equateur, I'cnnui infeparable d'unc longue navigation, un cer- " tain efprit republicain qui regne dans toutes Ics petites fociete's, peut-etre toutes ces *' caufes reunies, on pu donner naiflance a ces efpeces de faturnalcs. Quoiqu'il en foit, " elles furent adoptees, en un inftant, dans toutes les nations, & les hommes les plua *« eclaires furent obliges de fe foumcttrc a une coutume dont ils reconnoiflbient I'ab- " iurdite. Car, partout, des que le peuple parle, it faut que le fage fe mette a I'unifon." Hl/iolre d'un Voyage atix Ijles Malouines, p. 107, 108. watch, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ^5 watch, 34° 47'. The former is 1° 43', and the latter 2* 14' more Wefterly than the ifland of Fernando de Noronha, the fituation of which was pretty well determined during my late voyage *. Hence I concluded that we could not now be farther from the continent than twenty or thirty leagues at mod ; and perhaps not much lefs, as we neither had found- ings, nor any other figns of land. Dr. Halley, however, in his voyage, publiftied by Mr. Dalrymple, tells us f, that he made no more than one hundred and two miles, meridian dijance, from the ijland [Fernando de Noronha] to the coajl of Braftl; and feems to think that currents could not he the whole cau/e of his making fo little. But I rather think that he was millaken, and that the currents had hurried him far to the Weftward of his intended courfe. This was, in fome meafure, con- firmed by our own obfervations ; for we had found, during three or four days preceding the 8th, that the currents fet to the Weftward j and, during the laft twenty-four hours, it had fet ftrong to the Northward, as we experienced a dif- ference of twenty-nine miles between our obferved latitude and that by dead reckoning. Upon the whole, till fome better aftronomical obfervations are made on fliore on the Eaftern coaft of Brafil, I fliall conclude that its longitude is thirty-five degrees and a half, or thirty-fix degrees Weft, at moft. We proceeded on our voyage, without meeting with any thing of note, till the 6th of Odlobcr. Being then in the latitude of 35° 15' South, longitude 7° 45' Weft, we met with light airs and calms by turns, for three days fuccellively. We had, for fome days before, fecn albatrofTes, pintadoes, and other petrels; and here we fiiw three penguins, which i7t6. September. * See Cook's Voyage, Vol. II. p. 278. F 2 t P. ir. occafioned Oftober. Sunday 6. f-Hj 'I (■ M :# s^ Oftober. Tuefday 8. F' ; Si A V O Y A G E T O occafioned us to found ; but we found no ground with a line of one hundred and fifty fathoms. We put a boat in the water, and fliot a few birds ; one of which was a black pe- trel, about the fize of a crow, and, except as to the bill and feet, very like one. It had a few white feathers under the throat ; and the under-fide of the quill-feathers were of an afli-colour. All the other feathers were jet black, as alfo the bill and legs. On the 8th, in the evening, one of thofe birds which failors call noddies, fettled on our rigging, and was caught. ^ It was fomething larger than an Englifh black-bird, and nearly as black, except the upper part of the head, which •was white, looking as if it were powdered ; the whitefl fea- thers growing out from the bafe of the upper bill, from, which they gradually aflumed a darker colour, to about the middle of the upper part of the neck, where the white fhade was loft in the black, without being divided by any line. It was web-footed ; had black legs and a black bill, which was long, and not unlike that of a curlew. It is faid thefe birds never fly far from land. We knew of none nearer the ftation we were in, than Cough's or Richmond Ifland, from which our diftance could not be lefs than one hundred leagues. But it muft be obferved that the Atlantic Ocean, to the Southward of this latitude, has been but little fre- quented ; fo that there may be more iflands there than we are acquainted with. > We frequently, in the night, faw thofe luminous marine animals mentioned and defcribed in my firft voyage *, Some of them feemed to be confiderably larger than any I ' fn'» « See Hawkefworth's Collection of Voyages, Vol. II. p. 15. had itp THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 37 had before met with -, and fometimes they were fo nume- rous, that hundreds were vifible at the fame moment. 1776. Oitobcr. This calm weather was fucceeded by a frefli gale from the North Weft, which lafted two days. Then we had again - iviable light airs for about twenty-four hours; when the North Weft wind returned, and blew with fuch flrength, that on the 17th we had fight of the Cape of Good Mope ; Thurfjayi;. and the next day anchored in Table Bay, in four fathoms Friday is. water, with the church bearing South Weft | South, and Green Point North Weft ^ Weft. As foon as we had received the ufual vifit from the Maftcr Attendant and the Surgeon, I fent an officer to wait on Ba- ron Plettenberg, the Governor; and, on his return, falutcd the garrifon with thirteen guns, which compliment was returned with the fame number. We found in the bay two French Eaft India Ships; the one outward, and the other homeward bound. And two or three days before our arrival, another homeward bound lliip of the fame nation had parted from her cable, and been driven on fhore at the head of the bay, where flie was loft. The crew were faved; but the grcateft part of the cargo Ihared the fame fate with the fhip, or (which amounted to the fame) was plundered and ftolen by the inhabitanrs, either out of the ihip, or as it was driven or civricd on fliore. This is the account the French officers gave to mc; and the Dutch themfelvcs could not deny the fact. But, by ■way of excufing themfclves from being guilty of a crime difgraceful to every civilized ftate, they endeavoured to lay the whole blame on the French Captain, for not applying in time for. a guard. As ■•■'fi m ■r, \jl U M M ■Hi ii ''W'S 'ill ^ A VOYAGE T O As foon as we had faluted, I went on fliore, accompanied by fome of my officers, and waited on the Governor, the Lieu- tenant Governor, the Fifcal, and the Commander of the troops. Thcfe gentlemen received me with the greateft civility ; and the Governor, in particular, promifed me every affiflancc that the place afforded. At the fame time I obtained his leave to fet up our obfervatory on any fpot I (hould think moft convenient : to pitch tents for the failmakers and coo- pers ; and to bring the cattle on (hore, to graze near our encampment. Before I returned on board, I ordered foft bread, frefli meat, and greens, to be provided, every day, for the (hip's company. Tuefday 22. On the 22d, wc fet up the tents and obfervatory, and be- gan to fend the feveral articles out of the (hip which I wanted on fliore. This could not be done fooner, as the militia of the place were exercifmg on, or near, the ground which we were to occupy. WedneC 23. The ncxt day, we began to obfervc equal altitudes of the Sun, in order to afccrtain the rate of the*watch, or, which is the fame thing, to find whether it had altered its rate. Thefe obfervations were continued every day, whenever the weather would permit, till the time of our departure drew near. But before this, the caulkers had been fet to work to caulk the fliip; and I had concerted meafures with Meffirs. Brandt and Chiron, for fupplying both (hips with fuch provifions as I (hould want. Bakers, likewife, had been ordered, immediately after our arrival, to bake fuch a quantity of bread as I thought would be requifite. s fail as the feveral articles deftined for the Refolution were got ready, they were carried on board. On THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 39 On the aGih, the French fliip failed tor Europe, and by her, we fcnt letters to England. The next day, the Hamp- Ihire Eaft India (hip, from Bcncoolen, anchored in the bay, and falutcd us with thirteen guns, which we returned with eleven. 1776. C ober. >■ , ■-; Saturday a6i Sunday tj. Nothing remarkable happened till the evening of the 31ft, ThurHayji. when it came on to b'ow exceflively hard at South Eaft, and continued for three days ; during which time there was no communication becwcen the fhip and the Ihore. The Re- folution was the only ftiip in the bay that rode out the gale without dragging her anchors. We felt its efre<5l3 as fenfi- bly on fliore. Our tents and obfervatory were torn to pieces; and our aftronomical quadrant narrowly efcaped irreparable November, damage. On the 3d of November the ftorm ceafed, and the Sunday 3. next day we refumed our different employments. On the 6th, the Hampshire India fhip failed for England. Wcdnef. 6, In her I fcnt home an invalid, whom Captain Trimble was fo obliging as to receive on board. I was afterwards forry that I had not availed myfelf of this opportunity to part with two or three more of my crew, who were troubled with different complaints ; but, at this time, there was fome hope of their health being re-e(lablilhed. In the morning of the loth, the Difcovcry arrived in the Smutay 10. bay. Captain Clcrke informed me that he had failed from Plymouth on the ift of Aug ift, and fliould have been with us here a week fooner, if the late gale of wind had not blown him off the coafl. Upon the whole, he was feven days longer in his paflage from England than we had been. He had the misfortune to iofc one of his marines, by fall- ing over- board ; but there had been no other mortality amongft his people, and they now arrived well and healthy. Captain I": .. ■i:l ^■■m ■'4 '.M m 40 A VOYAGE TO '■ •l'\ ., "76: Captain Gierke havinc; renrefented to me tliat his (hip was November. r 1 " » 111 v-- v ~.^ in want or caulking; that no time might he loll in repair- Monday n. ing this deft '.^ next d;iy I font all my workmen on board her, having already completed this fervicc on bo:ad thr llc- folution. I lent every o;hcr aflillance to the t'aptaiu to ex- pedite his fupply of provilions and water, having given him an order to receive on board as mucli of both articles as he could conveniently (low. I now found that the bakers had failed in baking the bread 1 had ordered for the Difcovery. 'Ihey pretended a want of flour; but the truth v/as, they were doubtful of her coming, and did not care to begin, till they faw her at anchor in the bay. I have before made mention of our getting our cattle on fliore. The bull and two cows, with their calves, were fcnt to graze along with fomc other cattle; but I was advifed to ■ keep our flieep, fixteen in number, clofe to our tents wlicre they were penn;cd up every night. During the night preccd- Thurfday 14. ing the 14th, fome dogs having got in amongll them, forced them out of the pen, killing four, and difperfing the reft. Six of them were recovered the next day; but the two rams, and two of the fineft ewes in the whole flock, were amongft thofe mifllng. liaron Plettenberg being now in the country, I applied to the Lieutenant Governor, Mr. Hemmy, and to the Fifcal. Both thefe Gentlemen promifcd to ufe their en- deavours for the recovery of the loft flieep. The Dutch, we know, boaft that the police at the Cape is fo carefully executed, that it is hardly pofllble for a flave, with all his cunning and knowledge of the country, to effedluate his efcape. Yet my flieep evaded all the vigilance of the Fifcal's ofl[icers and people. However, after much trouble and ex- pence, by employing fome of the meaneft and loweft fcoun- drels in the place (who, to ufe the phrafe of the perfon who 8 recommeaded THE PACIFIC OCEAN. recommended this method to me, would, for a ducatoon, cut their maflcr's throat, burn the houfc over his head, and bury him and the whole family in the alhes), I recovered them all but the two ewes. Of thefe I never could hear the lead tidings } and I gave over all enquiry after them, when I was told, that fince I had got the two rams, I might think myfelf very well off". One of thefe, however, was fo much hurt by the dogs, that there was reafon to believe he would never recover. Mr. Hemmy very obligingly ofTered to make up this lofs, by giving me a Spanifli ram, out of fome that he had fent for from Lifbon. But I declined the offer, under a perfua- fion that it would ifwer my purpofe full as well, to take with me fome of the Cape rams : the event proved, that I was under a midake. This Gentleman has taken fome pains to introduce European (heep at the Cape ; but his en- deavours, as he told me, have been fruftrated by the obfti- nacy of the country people, who hold their own breed in greater eftimation, on account of their large tails, of the fat of which they fometimes make more money than of the whole carcafs befides * ; and think that the wool of Euro- pean flieep will, by no means, make up for their deficiency in this refpecfl. Indeed, I have heard fome fcnfible men here make the fame obfervation. And there fccms to be foundation for it. For, admitting that European flieep were 1776. Noveml)T. '-■1 * " The mofl remarkable thing In the Cape (heep, is the length and thickiicfs of their tarfs, which weigh from fifteen to twenty pounds. The fat is not fo tnllowifh as that of European mutton, and the poorer fort ufe it for butter." Kolhen's Cape of Good Hope [Kngliih tranflation]. Vol. II. p. 65. De la Caillc, who find^ every thing wrong in Koiben, fays, the weight of the tails of the Cape (heep is not above five or fix pounds. Voyage de .a Caille, p. 34.3. If the information given to Captain Cook may be depended upon, ii will prove that, in this inilance at lead, Koiben is unjulHy accufed of exaggeration. Vol. I. O to h JA M);' :j 42 A VOYAGE TQ liti ; '11 B ^,^7?\ to produce wool of the fame quality here as in Europe; November. * ^ ^ •' * »~ - w - -> whicli experience has fhc ^ii not to be the cafe, the Dutcli have not hands, at the Cape of Good Hope, to fpare for the manufaduring even their own clothing* It is certain that, were it not for the continual importation of {laves, ihis-fet- tlement would be thinner of people than any other inha* bited part of the world. . , . , ,. While the fhips weri! getting ready for the profecution of v:)ur voyage, fome of cair officers made an e-^curfion to take a view of the neighbouring country. Mr. Anderfon, my Surgeon, who was one of the party, gave me the following, relation of their proceedings *• : Saturday i6. " On thc 1 6th, in the forenoon, I fet out in a waggon, with five more, to take a view of fome part of the country. We crofled the large plain that lies to the Eaftward of the town, which is entirely a white fand, like that commonly, found on beaches, and produces only heath, and other fmall plants of various forts. At five in the afternoon we pafled a large farra-houfe, with feme corn-fields, and pretty confiderable vineyards, fituated beyond the plain, near the foot of fome low hills, where the foil becomes worth cultir- vaiing. Between fix and feven we arrived at Stellenbofli,. the colony next to that of the Cape for its importance. The village does not confift of more than thirty houfes, and Hands at the foot of the range of lofty mountains, * In the Philofophical Tranfaftions, Vol. Ixvi. p. 268t0 3r9, is an Account of Three Jcurniesfrcm the Cape Toiuii hit o the Southern Parts of Jfrica, in 1772, 1773, and 1774 ; by Mr. Francis Maflbn, who had been lent from England for the difcovery of new plants, towards the iinprovemctit of the Royal Botanical Garden at Kew. Much curious information is contained in Mr. Maflbn's account of thefe journies. M. de Pages, who was at the Cnpe in 1773, gives fome remarks en the ftate of that fettle- ment, and alfo the particulars of his Journey from Falfe Bay to the Cape Town. Voyagt vers U Pole du SuJ, p. 17 to 32. above THE PACIFIC OCEAN.' 43 above twenty miles to the Eaftward of the Cape Town. Tlie ., ^776- ■' ^ November. houfes arc neat ; and, with the advantage of a rivulet which <- - x"-^ runs near, and the thelter of fomc large oaks, planted at its firfl fettling, forms what may be called a rural profpe<5l in this defert country. There are fome vineyards and orchards about the place, which, from their thriving appearance, feem to indicate an excellent foil; though, perhaps, they owe much to climate, as the air here has an uncommon ferenity. .... » . I employed the next day in fearching for plants and in- Sunday 17, fefts about Stellenbofli, but had little fucccfs. Few plants are in flower here at this feafon, and infedls but fcarcc. I examined the foil in feveral places, and found it to confift of yellovlHi clay, mixed with a good deal of fand. The fides of the low hills, which appear brown, feem to be con- ftituted of a fort of (lone marie. We left StellenboiL next morning, and foon arrived at the Monday is, houfe we had palTed on Saturday ; the owner of which, Mr. Cloeder, had fent us an invitation, the evening before, to vifit him. This Gentleman entertained us with the greateft hofpitality, and in a manner very different from what we expedled. He received us with mufic; and a band alfo played while we were at dinner; which, confidering the fituation of the place, might be reckoned elegant. He fliewcd us his wine-cellars, his orchards, and vineyards; all which, I muil own, infpired me with a wifli to know in what manner thefe induftrious people could create fuch plenty, in a fpot where, I believe, no other European na- tion would have attempted to fettle. In the afternoon we crofTed the country, and pafTcd a few plantations, one of which feemed very confidcrable, and was G 2 laid 4 'k H '-1 M ; '»' :'«..■ 44 1776- Noi-embcr. Tucfiiay 19. * A VOYAGE Ta ^ ^ laid out in a tafte fomewhat different from any other we law. In the evening we arrived at a farm-houfe, which is the firft in the cultivated tradt called the Pearl. We had, at the fame time, a view of Drakenftein, the third colony of this country, which lies along by the foot of the lofty hills already mentioned, and contains fcveral farms or planta- tions, not very extenfive. I went, on the 19th in the forenoon, in queft of plants and infe<3:s, which I found almoft as fcarce as at Stellen- bofli ; but I met with more ftirubs or fmall trees, naturally produced, in the valleys, than in any part of the country I had hitherto feen. In the afternoon, we went to fee a flone of a remarkable fize, called by the inhabitants the Tower of Babylon, or the Pearl Diamond*. It lies, or (lands, upon the top of fome low hills, at the foot of which our farm-houfe was iituated ; and though the road to it is neither very fteep nor rugged, we were above an hour and a half in walking to it; It is of an oblong fhape, rounded on the top, and lies nearly South and North. The E-'.ft and Weft fides are fleep, and al- • In the Pbilofophical Tranfadions, Vol. Ixviii. Part I. p. i02. we have a Letter from Mr. Anderfon to Sir John Pringle, defcribing this remarkable ftone. The ac- count fent home from the Cape, and read before the Royal Society, is much the fame with that now publiflied, but rather fuller. In particular, he tells Sir John, that he went to fee it at Mr. MaJJon'i deftre, who, probably, had not had an opportunity of fufficiently examining it himfelf. In the account of his journies, above referred to, p. 270, he only fays, *' thire an two large folid rocks on the Perel Berg, each of which (he believes) is more tlian a mile in circumference at the bafcy and upwards of two hundred feet high. Their furfaces are nearly fmooth, without chink or fijfurcs ; and they are found to be afpecies of granite, different from that which comfofes the neighbouring mountains." Mr. Anderfon having, with his Letter to Sir John Pringle, alfo fent home a fpe- cimen of the rock, it was examined by Sir William Hamilton, whofe opinion is, that '* this Jtngu lor, imwcnfe fragment of granite, mo/l probably has been raifcd by a volcanic txplofion, or fome fuch caufe," See his Letter to Sir John Pringle, annexed to Mr. An. •Jerfon's, in the Philofophical Tranfaitions. 4 moll '(-■ h THE PACIFIC OCEAN. fnoft perpendicular. The South end is likewife fleep, and its greatcft height is there; from whence it declines gently to the North part, by which we afcended to its top, and had an extenfive view of the whole country. Its circumference, I think, muft be at leaft half a mile ; as it took us above half an hour to walk round it, including every allowance for the bad road, and flopping a little. At its higheft part, which is the South end, comparing it with a known object, it feems to equal the dome of St. Paul's church. It is one uninterrupted mafs or ftone, if we except fome fifTures, or rather imprefiions, not above three or four feet deep, and a vein which runs acrofs near its North end. It is of that fort of ftone called, by Mineralogifts, Saxum conglutinatuw, and confifts chiefly of pieces of coarfe quartz and glimmer, held together by a clayey cement. But the vein which crofTcs it, though of the fame materials, is much com- p'«.(3:er. This vein is not above a foot broad or thick; and its furface is cut into little fquares or oblongs, difpofcd obliquely, which makes it look like the remains of fomc artificial work. But I could not obferve whether it pene- trated far into the large rock, or was only fuperficial. In defcending, we found at its foot a very rich black mould; and on the fides of the hills, fome trees of a confiderable fize, natives of the place, which are a fpecies of oka *. 45 17-6. November. r .1 >' In * It is flrangc 'lat neither Kolben nor de la Caille fliould have thought the Tower c^iSff/^yw worthy of a particular defcription. The former [Vol.11, p. 52,53, Eng- lifli Tranflation] only mentions it as a high mountain. The latter contents himfdf with telling us, that it is a very low hillock, un tres has monticule. Voyage de let Caille.; p. 341. We are much obliged to Mr. Anderfon for his very accurate -account of this remarkable rock, which agrees with Mr. Sonncrat's, who was at the Cape of Good Hope fo late as 1781. His words are, " La Montagne de la Perle, meritc d'etre ob- « lervce. C'eft un des plus hautes des environs du Cap. Elle n'ell compofee qua . • " d'ua m 46 A VOYAGE TO ;*5 i (I hv\\^f III! 'ii 1776. Novenjber. Wedncf. 20. Saturday 23. In the morning on the 20th, we fet out from the Pearl; and going a difierent road from that by which we came, :pafl*ed through a country wholly uncuhivated, till wc got to the ly^er hills, when fome tolerable corn-fields appeared. At nocn, we flopped in a hollow for refrefhment ; b'.i, in walking ubout here, were plagued with a vaft number of muf'quiioes or fand flies, which were the firft I faw in the country. In the afternoon we fet out again, and in the evening arrived at the Cape Town, tired with the jolting waggon." i. On the 2-,d, we got on board the obfervatory, clock, &c. By a mean of the fevcral refults of the equal altitudes of the Sun, taken with the aftronomical quadrant, the aftrono- mical clock was found to iofe on fidereal time, 1' 8",368 <.ach day. The pendulum was kept at the fame length as at Greenwich, where the daily lofs of the clock on fidereal time, was 4". . The watch, by the mean of the refults of fifteen days cbfcivations, was found to be lofmg ii",26i, on mean time, each day; which is i",052 more than at Green- wich: and on the 21ft, at noon, flie was too flow for mean time by 1". 20' 57", 66. From this, 6' ^S",c)s6, is to be fubftrafted, for what fhe was too flow on the nth of June at Greenwich, and her daily rate fince; and the remainder, viz. i\ 14'. o8",704, or 18° 32' 10 will be the longitude of the Cape Town by the watch. Its true longitude, as found by MeflTrs. Mafon and Dixon, is « d'un feul bloc de granit crevafle dans plufieurs endroits." Ftyage aux Indesy Tom. II. p. 91. Mr. Sonnerat tells us, that Mr. Gordon, Commander of the troops at the Cape, had lately made three journies up the country, from which, when he publilhes his Journal, we may expeft much curious information. . " " *« 8 - i8' THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 47 1 8° 23' 15'. As our obfervations were made about half 2 mile to the Eall of theirs, the error of the watch, in longi- tud°, is no more than 8' 25". Hence we have reafon to conclude, that fhe had gone well all the way from England* and that the longitude, thus given, may be nearer the truth than any other. If this be auLTsitted, it will, in a great mcafure, enable me to find the din^dlion and ftrcngth of the currents we met with 0-. this paflage from England. For, by comparing the latitude and longitude by dead reckoning, with thofe by obfervation and the watch^ we (hall, from time to time,, have, very accurately, the error of the fliip's reckoning, be the caufe what it will. But as all imaginable care was taken in heaving and keeping the log, and every neceiTary allow- ance made for lee-way, heave of ths fca, and other fuch circumftances, I cannot attribute thofe errors that did hap- pen, to any other caufe but currents; but more particularly when the error wag conftantly the fame way, for feveral days fuccc {lively. On the contrary, if we find the fhip a-head of the rec- koning on one day, and a-flern of it on another, we have reafon to believe that fuch errors are owing to accidental caufes, ' and not to currents. This feems to have been the cafe in our pafTage between England and TenerifFe. But, from the time of our leaving that ifland, till the 15th of Aviguft, being then in the latitude of 13° North, and longi- tude 24" Weft, the fhip was carried 1° 20' of longitude to the Weftward of her reckoning. At this Ration, the currents took a contrary direcJtion, and fet to Eall South Eaft, at the rate of twelve or fourteen miles a day, or twenty-four hours, till we arrived into the latitude of 5° North, and longitude of 20° Weft; which was our moft Eafterly fitua^ lioa 1776. NovemboK. m m 4» A VOYAGE TO 1776. November^ ii:;';tM ' |i -ifl tion after leaving the Cape dc Verde Iflands, till we got to the Southward. For in this lituation the wind came South- erly, and wc tacked and ftretchcd to the Weftward ; and, for two or three days, could not find that our reckoning was afre(5ted by any current. So that, I judged, we were be- tween the current that generally, if not conftantly, fets to the Eaft upon the coaft of Guinea, and that which fets to the Weft towards the coaft of Brafil. This Wefterly current was not confiderable till we got into 2° North, and aj" Weft. From this ftaiion, to 3° South and 30° Wert, the fliip, in the fpace of four d;iys, was carried one hundred and fifteen miles in the dire(5tion of South Weft by Wert, beyond her reckoning j an error by far too great to have any other caufe but a ftrong current running in the fame direction. Nor did its ftrcngth abate here ; but its courfe was, afterward, more Wefterly, and to the North of Weft; and off Cape Auguftine, North, as I have already mentioned. But this Northerly current did not cxift at twenty or thirty leagues to rhe Southward of that Cape; nor any other, that I could pe . eive, in the remaining part of the paffage. The little diffei nee we afterward found be- tween the reckoning and oL rvations, might very well happen without the allittancc )f currents j as will appear by the Table of Days Works. In the account of my laft voyage *, I remarked, that the currents one meets with in this pafTage generally balance each other. It happened fo then ; becaufe we crofTcd the line about 20° more to the Eaftward than we did now ; fo that we were, of confequence, longer under the influence of the Eafterly current, which made up for the Wefterly one. n vs Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. I. p. 14. And THE PACIFIC OCEAN. And this, I apprehend, will generally be the cafe^ if you crofs the line io° or 15° to the Eaft of the meridian of St. v Jago. ., ; .. ; i.iA '. From thefe remarks I fliall draw the following conclufion, That, after paffing the Cape de Verde Ifland, if you do not make above 4° or 5° Eafling, and crofs the line in, or to the Weftward of, the meridian of St. Jago, you may exped: to find your fliip 3° or 4° to the Weftward of her reckoning, by the time you get into the latitude of 10" South. If, on the other hand, you keep well to the Eaft, and crofs the line 1 5° or 20° to the Eaft of St. Jago, you will be then as much to the Eaft of your reckoning ; and the more you keep to the Eaft ward, the greater will be your error ; as has been experienced by fome India fhips, whofe people have found themfelves clofe upon the coaft of Angola, when they thought its diftance was above two hundred leagues. During the whole of our paflage from England, no op- portunity was omitted of obfervmg, with all the attention and accuracy that circumftances would permit, the variation of the compafs, which I have inferted in a Table, with the latitude and longitude of the fliip at the time of obfervation. As the longitude may be depended upon, to a quarter or half a degree at moft, this Table will be of ufe to thofe na- vigators who corre(5l their reckoning by the variation. It will alfo enable Mr. Dun to corretft his new Variation Chart, a thing veiy much wanted. It feems ftrange to me, that the advocates for the varia- tion fliould not agree amongft themfelves. We find one *of them telling us, as I have already obferved, that ivith 8" Wejl variation^ or any thing above thaty you may venture to fail by the ♦ NIchelfon, * Vol. I. M "■ Cape 49 1776. November. 50 1776. November. A VOYAGE TO Cape de Verde IJlands^ by night or day^ being well ajfuredy with that variation^ that you are to the Eajlnvard of them. Another, in his Chart *, lays down this variation ninety leagues to the Weftward of them. Such a difagreement as this, is a ilrong proof of the uncertainty of both. However, I have no doubt, the former found here, as well as in other places, the variation he mentions. But he ihould have confidered, that at fea, nay even on land, the refults of the moft accu- rate obfervations will not always be the fame. Different compaffes will give different variations j and even the fame compafs will differ from itfelf two degrees, without our be- ing able to difcover, much lefs to remove, the caufe. f* 'Whoever imagines he can find the variation within a degree, will very often fee himfelf much deceived. For, befides the iraperfe(5lion which may be in the conftru(5lion of the inftrument, or in the power of the needle, it is cer- tain that the motion of the fhip, or attracftion of the iron- work, or feme other caufe not yet difcovcrcd, will frequently- occafion far greater errors than this. That the variation may be found, with a fliare of accuracy more than fufficient to determine the fliip's courfe, is allowed ; but that it can be found fo exadly as to fix the longitude within a degree, or fixty miles, I abfolutely deny. .s; ♦ Mr. Dun. ■ri,i CHAP, ,#' 4. I f^': m fH •m min m-ivh •t... ?i''i? ) .!■ !•' [ao C (Irurrr j^ 4a LW-4 llw» »»*■.. ./:^' ^ ~T'-^ ' ' 5=-! f^t I bat : Long 49. Hc~i^~Mnr ^ Ifn/Vtj /lYi/tWVttir THE PACIFIC OCEAN, i If */ t \ h CHAP. IV, * I'he two Ships leave the Cape of Good Hoj.e. — Two IJlandi^ named Prit2ce Edward's^ Jeeriy and their Appearance defcribed, — Kerguele?is Land vifited.— Arrival in Chriflniai Harbour* — Occurre?tces there, — Defer ipt ion of it* I " I AFTER the di fader which happened to our flieep, it may be well fuppofed I did not truft ihofc that re- mained, long on ftiorc ; but got them, and the other cattle, on board as faft as poflible. I alfo added to my original flock, by purchafing two young bulls, two heifers, two young ftone-horfes, two mares, two rams, feveral ewes and goats, and fome rabbits and poultry. All of them were in- tended for New Zealand, Otaheite, and the neighbouring illands, or any other places, in the courfc of our voyage, where there might be a profpe(5t that the leaving any of them would be ufeful to pofterity. Towards the latter, end of November, the caulkers had finiflied their work otl board the Difcovcry, and flie had re- ceived all her provifions and water. Of the former, both iliips had a fupply fufiicient for two years and upwards. And every other article we could think of, neceflary for fuch a voyage, that could be had at the Cape, was procured; neither knowing when, nor where, we might come to a, place where we could furnifli ourfelves fo well. II 2 Having •u. Ur-V- T.- ... ii^ My _, ,ii l .i . ; j i ji ji (_ 4 j i (nJ ;. ■■it-A~ i± i ^ v I 't-.i-_;. ;-r -ij 5< 1776. November. i .,. Hilfl ? ' f I — < — I ■ t I T * 1 1 T I t I I 1- f -J t I - 1 — ('•H ~r — I < I — I 1 ■ If . 19 I I ' — ■- »* f«4*«^«»*.f^-i.*..<.»M I r :5i i^;,'...: iim s^ A VOYAGE TO 1776. November. Having given Captain Gierke a copy of my infl;ruc5lions,, and an order directing him how to proceed in cafe of fepa- Saturday 30. ration ; in the morning of the 30th, we repaired on board. At five in the afternoon a breeze fprung up at South Eaft, with which we weighed, and flood out of the bay. At nine it fell calm, and we anchored between Penguin Ifland and the Eaft fhore, where we lay till three o'clock next morn- ing. We then weighed and put to fea, with a light breeze at South; but did not get clear of the land till the morning of the 3d, when, with a fre.^i gale at Weft North Weft, we flood to the South Eaft, to get more into the way of thefe winds. December Sunday i. Tuesday 3 . Thurfdayj. 7ndav 6. •Thurfdayiz. On th€ 5th, a fudden fquall of wind carried away the Refolution's mizen tc^j-maft. Having another to replace it, the lofs was not felt ; efpecially as it was a bad ftick, and. had often complained. On the 6th, in the evening, being, then in the latitude of 39° 14' South, and in the longitude of 23° 56' Eaft, we paiTed through feveral fmall fpots of water of a reddifli colour. Some of this was taker, up ; and it was found to abound with a fmall animal, which the micro- fcope difcovered to be like a cray-fifti, of a reddifli hue. W ^'fe THE PACIFIC OCEAN. proacli, we found it to be two iflands. That which lies moll to the South, and is alfo the largeft, I judged to be about fifteen leagues in circuit ; and to be in the latitude of 46" 53' South, and in the longitude of 37° 46' Eaft. The moft Northerly one is about nine leagues in circuit ; and lies in the latitude of 46"* 40' South, and in 38° 8' Eaft longi- tude. The diftance from the one to the other is about five leagues. We pafled through this channel, at equal diftance from both iflands ; and could not difcover, with the afliflance of. our beft glafles, either tree or fhrub on either of them. They feemed to have a rock^' and bold fliore ; and, except- ing the South Eaft parts, where the land is rather low and flat, a furface compofed of barren mountains, which rife ta a confiderable height, and whofe fummits and fides were* eovered with fnow, which in many places feemed to be of a confiderable depth. The South Eaft parts had a much greater quantity on them than the reftj owing, probablyi to the Sun adting tor a lefs fpace of time on thefe than on" the North and North We.'' parts. The ground, where it was not hid by the fnow, from the various fhades it exhi- bited, may be fuppofed to be covered with mofs, or, per- haps, fuch a coarfe grafs as is found in fome parts of Falk- land's Iflands. On the North fide of each of the iflands is a- detached rock : that near the South ifland is fliaped like a tower, and feemed to be at fome diftance from the fliore. As we pafled along, a quantity of fea-weed was feen, and the colour of the water indicated foundings. But there was> nr appearance of an inlet, unlefs near the rock juft men- tioned ; and that, from its fmallnefs, did not promife a good anchoring-place. Thefft n 1776. December. V'.'jI 1 i' m m W ' y 54 1776. Bccember. A VOYAGE TO Thefe two iflands, as alfo four others which He from nine to twelve degrees of longitude more to the Eaft, r'nd nearly in the fame latitude, were difcovered, as I have mentioned in my late Voyage*, by Captains Marion du Frefne, and Crozer, French Navigators, in January 1772, on their pafTage in two Ihips from the Cape of Good Hope to the Philippine Iflands. As they have no names in tho "^rench chart of the Southern hemifphere, which Captain Cro7.et communicated to me in 1775 |, "I fliall diftinguifli the two we now fuw, by calling them Prince Edward's Iflands, after his Majtfty's fourth fon } and the other four, by the name of Marion's and Crozet's Iflands, to commemorate their difcoverers. We had now, for the moft part, ftrong gales between the North and Weft, and but very indifl'erent weather; not better, indeed, than we generally have in England in the very depth of Winter, though it was now the middle of Summer in this hemifphere. Not difcouraged, however, by this after leaving Prince Edward's Iflands, I fhaped our courfe to pji^s to the Southward of the others, that I might get inio the laritude of the land difcovered by Monfierx- de Kerguelcn. I had applied to the Chevalier de Borda, whom, as I have mentioned, I found at Teneriflx?, requefling, that if he knew any thing of the ifland difcovered by Monfieur dc Kergue- len, between the Cape of Good Hope and I'.cw Holland, he » * Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 266. Thefe iflands are there faiJ to be in the latitude of 4.8^ South ; that is, two deg.ccs farther South, than what here appears to be their real pofition. « t See CjoIc's Voyage, as above. Dr. Forfter, in his ohftr-uations made during thai voyage, p. 30, gives us this defcription of the Chart then communicated by Monfieur Cruzet : that it was publij))ed under the patronage of the Duke de Crcye, by Robert di Vaugondy. Captain Cook tells us lower in this Chapter, that it was publifhed in 1773- — 5 would \'X, 'f THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 55 would be fo obliging as to communicate it to me. Accord- ingly, juft before we failed from Santa Cruz bay, he fent me the following account of it, viz. " That the Pilot of the •• BoufTole, who was in the voyage with Monfieur de Ker- " guelen, had given him the latitude and longitude of a *♦ little ifland, which Monfieur de Kcrguelen called the " Ifle of Rendezvous, and which lies not far from the *' great ifland which he faw. Latitude of the little ifle, by *' feven obfervations, 48° 26' South ; longitude, by feven ob- *• fervations of the diflance of the Sun and Moon, 6+° 57' ♦' Eaft from Paris." I was very forry I had not fooner known that there was on board the frigate at TenerilFe.. an officer who had been with Monfieur de Kerguelen, efpecially the Pilot ; bccaufe from him I mi^'ht have obtained more in- tcrefling information about this land than the fituation alone, of which I was not before entirely ignorant *. ' ■ My 1776. December. * Captain Cook's proceedings, as related in the remaining part of this Chapter, and in the next, being upon a coaft newly difcovered by the French, it could not but lie an objeiSt of his attention to trace the footfteps of the original explorers. But no fuperiority of profeflional (kill, nor diligence in exerting it, could poflibly qualify him to do this fuccefsfully, without poiTening, at the fame time, full and authentic intelli- gence of all that had been performed here by his predecefTors in the difcovery. But that he was not fo fortunate as to be thus fufficiently inftru6ted, will appear from the following faiSls, which the Reader is requefted to attend to, before he proceeds to the perufal of this part of the Journal. How very little was known, with any precifion, about the operations of Kerguelen, when Captain Cook failed in 1776, may be inferred I'rom the following paragraph of his Inftruitions : " You are to proceed in fearch of fome idands /aid to have been lately *' feen by the French in the latitude of 48° South, and in the meridian of Mauri- •♦ tius (■ 1 *^ December. longitude of 52° Eaft, we faw penguins and divers, and — n- — * rock-weed floating in the fea. We continued to meet with °" '^ ' • more or lefs of thefe every day, as we proceeded to the Eaft- ward; and on the 21ft, in the latitude of 48° 27' South, and Saturday 21. in the longitude of Gs" Eaft, a very large feal was feen. We had now much foggy weather, and, as we expected to fall in with the land every hour, our navigation became both tedious and dangerous. At length, on the 24th, at fix o'clock in the morning, as Tuefda* 24. we were fleering to the Eaftward, the fog clearing away a little, we faw land *, bearing South South Eaft, which, upon •a"ir fuch as mark the operations of the firft French voyage } and even for thefe, he was' indebted to a MS. drawing. But this veil of unnece.i«ry fecrecy is at length drawn afide. Kerguelen himfelf has, very lately, publifhed the Journal of his proceedings in two fucceffive voyages, in the years 1772 and 1773 ; and has annexed to his Narrative a Chart of the coafts of this land, as far as he had explored them in both voyages. Monfieur de Pag^s, alfo, much about the fame time, favoured us with another account of the fecond voyage, in fomc refpeiSts fuller than Kerguelen's own, on board whofe fhip he wa* then an officer. Prom thefe fources of authentic information. We are enabled to draw every nc- cefTary material to correifl what is erroneous, and to illuflrale what, otherwife, would have remained obfcure, in this part of Captain Cook's Journal. We (hall take occa- fion to do this in fcparate Notes on the pafl'ages as they occur, and conclude this tedious, but, it is hoped, not unneccflary, detail of faiSs, with one general' remark, fully :xpreffive of the difadvantagcs our Author laboured under. He never faw tliat part of the coafl: upon which the French had been in 1772 ; and he never knew that they had been upon another pait of it in 1773, which was the very fcene of his own operations. Confcquently, what he knew of the former voyage, as delineated upon Crozet's Chart, only ("erved to perplex and mifleacl his judgment ; and his total igno-. rancc of the latter, put it out of his power to compare his own obfervations with tliofa then made by Kerguelen ; though we, wlio arc better liiftrudtcd, can do this, by tra- cing: the plaincft marks of coincidence and agreement, * Captain Cook was nr>t '':•". original difcovercr of thefe fmal! iflands which he now fell in with. It is ccrtr.in that they had been feen and named by Kerguelen, on his fecond voyage, in December 1773. Their pofition, relulively to eacii other, and Vol. I. I to ■nil. *■'-■ . .'i *-t Mi m '■M m 58 A VOYAGE TO 1776. December. w a ' " upon a nearer approach, we found to be an ifland of confi- derable height, and about three leagues in circuit *. Soon after, we faw another of the fame magnitude, one league to the Eaftwardf ; and between thefe two, in the direction of South Eaft, feme fmaller ones :|:. In the dire(5lion of South by Fall A Eaft, from the Eaft end of the firft ifland, a third § high illand was fecn. At times, as the fog broke away, we had the appearance of land over the fmall iflands ; and I had thoughts of fleering for it, by running in between them. Bur, on drawing nearer, I found this would be a dangerous attempt, while the weather continued foggy. For if there Ihould be no pafl^age, or if we fliould meet with any fudden danger, it would have been impofllble for us to get oflT; the wind being right a-ftern, and a prodigious fea running, that broke on all the iliores in a frightful furf. At the fame time, feeing another ifland in the North Eaft diredion, and not knowing but that there might be more, I judged it prudent to haul off, and wait for clearer weather, left we fhould get intangled amongft unknown lands in a thick fog. We did but juft weather the ifland laft mentioned. It is a highround rock, which was named Bligh's Cap. Perhaps h M ^ .l^ to the adjoining coafts of the greater land, as reprefented on the annexed Chart, bears a {Iriking refcmblance to Kerguelen's delineation of them ; whofe Chart, however, the Public may be aflured, was iinlcnovvn in England till after ours had been engraved. * This is the ifle to \vhi':h Kerguelen gave the name of Cray or Crony. Befidcs delineating it upon his Chart, he has added a particular view of it, exadtly corre- fponding with Captain Cook's account of its being oi conftdcrabk height, t Kerguelen called this IJle Rollandy after the name of his own fhip. There is alfi> a particular view of it on the French Chart. X The obfervatons of the French and Englifh navigators agree exaiStly, as to the pofilion of thefe fmailer iiles. § The fituation of Kerguelen's Ip de Clugny, as marked on his Chart, fhews it to be the third high ijland feen by Captain Cook. this ! I THE PACIFIC OCEAN. this is the fame that Monfieur de Kerguelcn called the Ifle of Rendezvous*; but I know nothing that can rendezvous at it, but fowls of the air; for it is certainly inacceflible to every other animal. . - . At eleven o'clock the weather began to clear up, and we immediately tacked, and fleered in for the land. At noon, we had a pretty good obfervation, which enabled us to deter- mine the latitude of Bligh's Cap, which is the norrhernmoft ifland, to be 48° 29' South, and its longitude 68° 40' Haft |. We pafTed it at three o'clock, {landing to the South South Eaft, with afrefh gale at Weft. •' • . . v. . Soon after wc faw the land, of which we had a faint view in the morning; and at four o'clock it extended from South Eaft 4. Eaft, to South Weft by South, dillant about four miles. The left extreme, which I judged to be the Northern point of this land called, in the French Chart of the Southern * This ifle, or rock, was the fingle point about which Captain Cook had received the leafl: information at TenerifFe ; and we may obferve how fagacious he was in tra- cing it. What he could only fpeak of as probable, a comparifon of his Chart with that lately publiftied by Kcrguelen, proves to be certain ; and if he had even read and copied what his predeceffor in the difcovery fays of it, he could fcarcely have varied his account of its (hape. Kerguelen's words are, " Ijle de Reunion, qui n'eft qu'une " Roche, nous fervoit de Rendezvous, ou de point de ralliement ; & reflemble ii un " coin de mire." t The French and Englifh agree very nearly (as might be expefted) in their ac- counts of the latitude of this ifland j but the obferv.itions by which they fix its longi- tude, vary confiderably. • ' ' '■■ -■ The Pilot at TenerifFe made it only 64^ 57' Eaft from Paris, which is about 67° 16' Eaft from London; or 1° 24' more Wefterly than Captain Cook's obfervations fix it. Monfieur de Pages fays it is 66° 47' Eaft from Paris, that is 69' 6' Eaft from Lon- don, or twenty-fix miles more Eafteriy than it is placed by Captain Cook. Kcrguelen himfelf only fays that it is about 68" of Eaft longitude, par 68° de longi- t»de. I 2 Mcmifphere, 59 1776. December. ■•■M "i"^ 1. ■ in': i ■? « i| "i '.-}, 11 m t 69 1776. December. 1 i_ A V O Y A G E TO Hemifphcrc, Cape St. Louis *, terminated in a perpendicu- lar rock ot a confiderable height ; and the riglit one (near which is a detached rock) in a high indented point f. Fiom this pc'.nt the coaft feemed to turn fhort round to the Southward ; for we cov ii fee no land to the Wcllward of the direction in whi ■ n v bore to us, b n the illands we had obferved in the loraiip; the mod Southerly :j: of them lying nearly Weft from the ^.oint^ about two 01; three ^eagues diftant. About the middle of the land there appeared to be an inlet, for which we fleered ; but, on approaching, found it was only a bending in the coaft, and therefore bore up, to go round Cape St. Louis §. Soon after, land opened off the 'h-i. ,;:;* !: ' i \i^- I * Hitherto, we have only had occafion to fupply defc£ts, owing to Captain Cook's *>f/iV* ignorance of Kcrguelen's fecond voyage in 1773} we mutt now corredl errors, owing to his very limited knowledge of the operations of the firft voyage in 1772. The Chart of the Southern Hcmifphere, his only guide, having given him, as he te\h us, the name of Cape St. Louis (or Cape Louis) as the mod Northerly promon- tory then feen by the French ; and his own obfcrvations now fatisfying him that no part of the main land ftretched farther North than the left extreme now before him j from this fuppofed fimilarity of fituation, he judged that his own perpendicular rod muft be the Cape Louis of the firft difcoverers. By looking upon our Chart, we (hall find Cape Louis lying upon a very difFerent part of the coaft j and by comparing this Chart with that lately publifhed by Kerguelcn, it will appear, in the cleareft manner, that the Northern point now dcfcribed by Captain Cook, is the very fame to which the French have given the name of Cape Francois. + This right extreme of the coaft, as it now fliewed itfelf to Captain Cook, fecms to be what is rcprefented on Kcrguelcn's Chart under the name of Cape Aubert. It may be proper to obferve here, that all that extent of coaft lying between Cape Louis and Cape Francois, of which the French faw very little during their firft vifit in 1772, and may be called the North Weft fide of this land, they had it in their power to trace the pofition of in 1773, and have afligncd names to fomc of its bays, rivers, and promontories, upon their Chart. % Kerguelen's Ifle de Clugny. § Cape Francois, as already obferved* ^ • ., ; 9 -. . Cape, (i^^'i 'if : T.:{^ ■»^ ■»^»< — ■iy m' w ■ ■.»- ...^r^^Cif-. Wh I i :m it I HI (It': Ml!*- ■k 7 i THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 6x Cape, in the direcflion of South 53' Eaft, and appeared to be a ^^J^t^I;,^ point at a confiderable diftancc \ for the trending of the coaft - ">- ■> from the Cape was more Southerly. We alfo faw feveral rocks and iilands to the Eaftward of the above diredions, the mod diftant of which was about fcvcn leagues from the Cape, bearing South 88' Eaft *. We had no fcoiicr got off the Cape, than we obferved the coaft, to the Southward, to be much indented by projc(5ting points and bays; fo that we now made fure of foon finding a good harbour. Accordingly, we had not run a mile far- ther, before we difcovered one behind the Cape, into which we began to ply ; but after making one board, it fell calm, and we anchored at the entrance in forty-five fathoms wa- ter, the bottom black fand ; as did the Difcovcry foon after. 1 immediately difpatched Mr. Bligh. the Mafter, in a boat to found the harbour ; who, on his return, reported it to be fafe and commodious, with good anchorage in every part; and great plenty of frefli water, fcals, penguins, and other birds on the fhore; but not a ftick of wood. While we lay at anchor, we obferved that the flood tide came from the South Eaft, running two knots, at leaft, in an hour. At day-break, in the morning of the 25th, we weighed Wedncf. 25. with a gentle breeze at Weft ; and having wrought into the harbour, to within a quarter of a mile of the fandy beach at its head, we anchored in eight fathoms water, the bottom a fine dark fand. The Difcovery did not get in till two , o'clock in the afternoon; when Captain Cleike informed me, that he had narrowly efcaped being driven on the South .1 It '. • :. u * The obfervations of the French, 'ound Cape Francois, remarkably coincide with Captain Cook's in this paragraph j and the rocks and iflands here mentioned by him, alio appear upon their Chart. point I i m •I'M '.^■? .:! I df 1776. December. IS:' A VOYAGE TO point of the harbour, his anchor having darted before they had time to (liorten in the cable. This obliged tlicm to fct fail, and drag the anchor after them, till they had room to heave it up ; and then they found one of its palms was broken off. As foon as wc had anchored, I ordered all the boats to be hoitled out ; the fliip to be moored with a kcdge anchor; and the watcr-cafks to be got ready to fend on fhore. In the mean time I landed, to look for the mofl convenient fpot where they might be filled, and to fee what elfc the place afforded. I found the fhore, in a maimer, covered with penguins and other birds, and feals. Thefe latter were not nume- rous, but fo infcnfible of fear (which plainly indicated that they were unaccuftomcd to fuch vifiters), that we killed as many as we chofe, for the fake of their fat or blubber, to make oil for our lamps, and other ufcs. FreOi water was in no Icfs plenty than were birds; for every gully afforded a large ilream. But not a fmgle tree or flirub, nor the lead fign of any, was to be difcovered, and but very little herb- age of any fort. The appearances, as we failed into ihe harbour, had flattered us with the hope of meeting with fomething confiderable growing here, as we ohf'erved the fides of many of the hills to be of a lively green. But I now found that this was occafioned by a fingle plant, which, with the other natural produdHciis, fliail be dcfcribed in another place. Before I returned to my fliip, I afcendcd the fird ridge of rocks, which rife in a kind of amphithe- atre above one another. I was in hopes, by this means, of obtaining a view of the country; but before I reached the top, there came on fo thick a fog, tliat I could hardly find 3 i»y t i THE P A C I 1' I C OCEAN. 63 my way down again. In the evening, wc hauled the fcinc p/^.Jj^'^;^^ at the licad of the harbour, but caught only half a dozen ' »—' finall fifli. Wc had no better fuccefs next day, when we tried with hook and line. So that our only refource here, for frcfh provitions, were birds, of which there was an in- cxhaufliblc ftore. The morning of the 26th proved foggy, with rain. Mow- ThurfJayaS. ever, wc went to work, to fill water, and to cut grafs for our cattle, which we found in fmall fpots near the head of the harbour. The rain which fell, fwellcd all the rivulets to ■ fuch a degree, that the fides of the hills, bounding the har- .bour, fecmed to be covered with a flicet of water. For the rain, as it fell, run into the fiflures and crags of the rocks that compofed the interior parts of the hills, and was preci- pitated down their fides in prodigious torrents. The people having wrought hard the two preceding days, and nearly completed our water, which we filled from a brook at the left corner of the beach, I allowed them the < 27th as a day of reft, to celebrate Chriftmas. Upon this in- iriday 27. dulgence, many of them went on fhore, and made excur- fions, in diflferent directions, into the country, which they * found barren and defolate in the higheft degree. In the evening, one of them brought to me a quart bottle which he had found, faftened with fome wire to a projet^ing rock on the North fide of the harbour. This bottle contained a piece of parchment, on which was written the following infcripti. ^n : ii^^ 1; ■ Luilovico ill ^ «iig««<*».«WMM-.^.MMK«fc : ( 'i&m 64 Dectmbpr AVOYAGETO Ludovico XF Galliarum regBy et d, * de Boynes regi a Secretis ad res tnaritimas annis 1772 et From this infcrip.ion, it is clear, that we were not the firft Europeans who had been in this harbour. I fuppofed it to be left by Monfieur de Boifguehenneu, who went on fhore in a boat on the 13th of February 1772, the fame day that Monfieur de Kerguelen difcovered this land ; as appears by a Note in the French Chart of the Southern Hemhphere, publiflied the following year f* As * The (d), no doubt is a coiitradion of the word Domino. The French Secre- tary of the Marine was then Monfieur de Boynes. t On perufing this paragraph of the Journal, it will be natural to afk, How could , Monfieur de Boifguehenneu, in the beginning of 1772, leave an iiifcriptioii, which, npon the very face of it, commemorates a tranfailion of the following year ? Captain Cook's manner of expreffing himfelf here, ftrongly marks, that he made this fuppofi- tion, only for want of information to enable him to make any other. He had no idea that the French had vifited this land a fecond time j and, reduced to the ncccffity of trying to accommodate what he faw himfelf, to what little he had heard of their proceedings, he confounds a tranfa£lion which we, who liavc been better inftrufled, know, for a certainty, belongs to the fecond Voyage, with a fimilar one, which his Chart of the Southern Hemifphcre has recorded, and which happened in a different year, atid at a different phice. 'I'he bay, indeed, in which Monfinur de Boifguehenneu landed, is upon the Wert: fide of this land, confidcrably to the South of Cape Louis, and not far from another more Southerly promontory, called Cape Bourbon ; a part of the coaft which our fliips were not upon. Tts fituation is marked upon o'l^ Chart ; and a particular view of tiie bay (!u Lion Marin (for fo Boifgui;henncu called it), with the founding?, is prcfervcd by Kerguelen. But if the bottle and ijifcription found by Captain Cook's people, were not left here by Boirguehcr.i.v.11, by whom and when wcic they 'eft ? This wc Ijarn mod fatif- fai^orily, from the accounts of Kerguelen's fecond Voy.ige, as publiflied by himfelf and Monfieur de Pagc-s, whicii prtfciit us with the following particulars : That they arrived fill the Weft fide ol this land on the 14th of December 1773; ^''•'^ ftccring to uic North : ( THE PACIFIC OCEAN. As a memorial of our having been in this harbour, I wrote on the other fulc of the p.irchmenr, North EL.i>, they ilifcovcrccl, on the iCth, the If.c dc Reunion, and the ether fniall iflaiiJs as mciuioiied above; that, on the i7tb, they had before tlicm tb.c priiuipal land (wliich they -vere ('Lire was conncck-d with that ken by them en the 14th), and a high point of that land, named by them Cape Francois.; th.it beyond this Cape, the coafl: toolc a Somh Eafteriy diieaion, end behind it they found a bay, called by'them Biiic de VOifcc.Uf from the name of tlieir frigate ; that they then e,idea\ oiired to enter it, but were prevented by contrary winds and blowing weatiicr, which drove them oft* the coafl Eaftward ; but that, at lafl:, on the 6th of January, Aloiifieur de Rof- rievet, Captain of the Oifeau, was able to fend his boat on fhoreinto tliis bay, under the command of Monfieur de Rochegude, one of his officers, who took pojffjjiiu of that bay, and of all the eountry. In the name of the King of France ^ ivith all the rcquifite for7nMttiei.'" Here then we trace, by the moft unexceptionable evidence, tlie hifturv of tlie bottle nnd infcription ; the leaving of which was, no doubt, one of the requilite formalitit s obferved by IMonfieur de Rochegude on this occafidn. Antl though he did not land till the 6th of January 1774, yet, as Kerguelen's ere Hoifgue- ■henneu landed in 1772, is forty leagues. For this wc have the authority of Ker- guelen,'in the following paflage : " Alonfieur de jjoifguehcniieu defcendit le 13 dc " Fevrier 1,772, dans un baic, qu'il nomme Baic du Lion Marin, & prit poflefTion " de cette terre au nom de Roi ; il n'y vit aucune trace d'habitants. Monfieur do " Rochegude, en 1774, a defcendu dans un autre b.iie, que nous avons nomme " Baie de I'Oifeau, & cette feconde radc eft a quarantcs lieucs de la premiere. " 11 en a egalement pris poffeflion, & il n'y trouva egalcmcnt aucune trace d'habitants." Kerguehn, p. ga. ■ Vol. I. ^ K Naves m 17-6. ■ Decern Lor. m m !■ 1 a ii i;ii ■ 1776- December. v_. 1 1..^-. J 66 AVOYAGETO Naves Refolution et Difcovery de Rege Magnce Britaniiice^ Decembris 1776. I tlicn put it again into a bottle, together with a filver two- penny piece of 1772; and having covered the mouth of the Saturday 28. bottlc with a Icadcn Cap, I placed it, the next mon-ing, in a pile of ftoncr, erefted for the purpofe, upon a little emi- nence on the North fliore of the harbour, and near to the place where it was firft found j in which pofition it cannot eCcape the notice of any European, whom chance or defign may bring into this port. Here I difplayed the Britifli flag, and named the place Chrljlmas Harbour^ from our having ar- rived in it on that felUval. It is the firfl, or northernmofl: inlet that we meet with on the South Eafl fide of Cape St. Louis *, which forms the North fide of the harbour, and is alfo the Northern point of this land. The fituation alone is fufFicient to dillinguifli it from any of the other inlets ; and, to make ir more icmark- able, iis South point terminates in a high rock, wliich is perforated quite through, fo as to appear like the arch of a bridge. We faw npne like this upon the whole coa(l f . The harbour has another diilinguifliing mark within, from a ' fingle * Cape Fran9ois, for reafons already afligned. •t If there couUl be the lead doubt rcmr.iiiing of the identity of the Baie dc TOifeau, and Chriftmas harbour, the circumftance of the jierforated rock, which divided it from another bay to the South, would amount to a ftiict demonftration. For Monficur do Fai.es had obfcrved this difcrimiiiating n-:ark before Captain Cook. His words are as folio\vs : " L'on vit que la cote de I'Eft, voifine du Cap Franyoi?, avoit deux baics ; " cllcs ctoicnt fepariies par une pointe trcs reconnoifl'able par 'a forme, qui icprcfi:i!t',it " une porU coc/xre,(iu travcrs de laquelle l'on vsyoit Ljcur." \ eyases du M, de Pages, Vol. ii. p. 67. iivcry one knows how exaftly the form of .i porte (oc/jere, or arched gateway. m ^d THE PACIFIC vO C E A N. 67 fingle flonc or rock, of a vafl fizc, which lies on the top of a hill on the Souili fide, near its bottom ; and oppofite this, on the North fide, there is another hill, much like it, but fmaller. There is a fmall beach at its bottom, where we commonly landed : and, behind it, fomc gently rifmg ground ; on the top of which is a large pool of frcfli water. The land on both fides of the inlet is high, and it runs in Weft, and Weft North Weft, about two miles. Its breadth is one mile and a quarter, for more than half its length i above which, it is only half a mile. The depth of water, which is forty-five fathoms at the entrance, varies, as we proceed farther in, from thirty, to five and four fathoms, liS marked upon the Plan. The Ihores arc flccpi and the bottom is every where a fine dark fand, except in fome places clofe to the .fliore, where there arc beds of fca~weed, which always grows on rocky ground. The head of the harbour lies open only to two points of the compafs ; and even thcfe are covered by iftands in the offing, fo that no fea can fall in to hurt a flrip. Tlie appearances on (liore confirmed this ; for we found grafs growing clofe to high- water mark, w>Mch is a fure fign of a pacific harbour *. It r^. Dc gateway, corrcfponds with that of the arch A a bridge. It is very fiitisfactory to find the two navigators, nei.jicr of whom kni;v/ any thing of the otiier's defcription, adopting the fame idea ; which both proves that they had the fame uncommon objcil before their eyes, and th^it they made an accur.'ite report. * In the laft Note, we faw how remarlcably IMonfieur de Pages and Captain Cook agree about the appearance of tlie South Point of tiie harbour ; I fhall here fubjoin another quotation from the former, cont;iining liis accour.t of the harbour iiP.lf, in which the Reader may trace the fame diftinguifhing features obferved by Captain Cook in the foregoing paragraph. " Lc 6, I'ori init ; terre dans la premiere baie a I'Eft du Cap Francois, & Ton prit •' pofiefljon de ccs coiitrees, Cc mouiliage confute en un petite rade, cpii a enviroas " (juatrcs cnciibhircs, ou quatrc cents toifes de profondcur, fur un tiers en fus de lar- K 2 " geur. <58 A VOYAGE TO ^ '776- It is hiffh- water here, at the full and change days, about ten December. ° o y > V— \ — -> o'clock J and the tide rifes and falls about four feet. After I had finifhed this buiirefs of the infcription, I went in my boat round the harbour, and landed in feveral places, to examine what the flic e afTorded ; and, particu- larly, to look for drift wood. For, although the land here was totally dcftituie of tre s, this might not be the cafe in other parts j and if there were any, the torrents would force fome, or, at leaft, fomc branches, into the fea, which would afterward throw them upon the fliores ; as in all other countries where there is wood, and in many where there is none : but, thvoughout the whole extent of the harbouri I found not a fmgle piece. In the afternoon, I went upon Cape St. Louis *, accompa- nied by Mr. King, my Second Lieutenant. I was in hopes, from this elevation, to have had a view of the fea-coafl:, and of the illands lying off it. But, when I got up, I found every diftant object below me hid in a thick fog. The land on the fame plain, or or a greater i.c'jMit, was vifible enough, and appeared naked and defoL^v^ :n the higheft " geu>-. En dedans de cette rade eft un petit port, dont I'entrce, de quatres enca- *' blurcs de largcur, prcfente au Sud-Ell, lya fondc de la petite rade eft depuis qua- " rante-cinq jufqu'ii trentc brafi'es ; et celle du port depuis feize jufqu'a huit. Le " (bnd dos deux eft de fable noir et vafeux. La cote des deux bords eft haute, & par " line penle tics rude; elle eft couverte de verdure, & il y a une ([uantite prodigieufe " d'Outardes. f^e fond du port eft occupe par un monticule qui laiffe entrc lui, et " la mer une plage de fable. Une petite riv iere, de triis bonne eau, coule a la mer " c* ..'S cet endroit; ^' elle eft fournie par un lac qui eft un peu au loin, au defl'us du. *' I.: .-itlrule. li y .ivoit fur le plage bcaucoup de pinguoins & de lions marins. Ces " dsiiA efpcces d'aiiiin '.ux ne fuyoient pas, & Ton augura que le pays n'etoit point " habile ; la terrc rjpportoitdc I'hcrbe large, noire, & bicn nourrie, qui n'avoit ce- *' per '!ant que eliique ponces ou plus de hauteur. L'on ne vit aucun arbrc, ni figpe " d'habitation. I^cyage du Monfcur de ..ageSf Tom. ii. p. 69, 70. * Cape (•'i8Ju;ois, degree j '«#'.- :> «^ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. h decree; except fome hills lO the Southward, which were 'r/^. . , * December, covered with mow. « — ,r— When I got on board I found the launch hoifted in, the Ihips unmoored, and leady to put to fca; but our failing was deferred till five o'clock the next morning, when we Sunday 39, weighed anchor. CHAT. 70 A VOYAGE TO ,.:,;! I <^ CHAP. V. Depiirltire from Chnftnias llarhoiir. — Range along the Coajl^ to dijcover its Pojiticn and Extent. — Several l-'romc7ito?-ies and Bays^ and a Pcninfida^ defcribed and najfied, — Danger from Skoals. — Another Harbour and a Sound. — Mr, Anderfhis Obfervations on the natural ProduBions, Ani?nals, Soil, &'c, of Kerguelens Land. i^'N iliSli 1776. December. Sund.'}' 29. S foon as the ihjps were out of Chriftmas Harbour, we fleered South Eaft '- South, along the coaft, with a fine breeze at North North Weft, and clear weather. This we thought the more fortunate, as, for fome time paft, fogs had prevailed, more or lefs, every day ; and the continu- ance of them would have defeated our plan of extending Kcrguelcn's dilcovery. We kept the lead conftantly going ; but feldoin flruck ground with a line of fifty or fixty fathoms. About feven or eight o clock, we were oiF a promontory, v'hich I called Cape Cumberland. It lies a league and a half from the So.r'i poin:. of Chriftmas Harbour, in the direcftion of South Rail, i- tiOiUh. Between them is a bay with two arms, both of which Teemed to afTord good flicker for fliipping. Off Cape Cumberland is a fmall but pretty higli ifland, on the fummit of which is a rock like a fen- try-box, which occafionec' our giving that name to the ifland. Two Dries farther to the Eallward, lies a groupe of fmall m THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 7t fmall iflandb and rocks, with broken p-round about them : ^ '776- " December. wc failed between tliefe and Sentry-I3ox Ifland, the chan- nel being a full mile broad, and more than forty fathoms deep J for we found no bottom with that length of line. Being through this channel, we difcovered, on the South fide of Cape Cumberland, a bay, running in three leagues to the Wellward. It is formed by this Cape to the North, and by a promontory to the South, which I named Point Pringle, after my good friend Sir John Pringle, Prcfident of the Royal Society. The bottom of this bay was called Cumberland Bay J and it feemed to be disjoined from the fea, which wafhcs the North Well coaft of tliis country, by a narrow neck of land. Appearances, at leaft, fi;voured fuch a con- jedure. ' To the Southward of Point Pringle, the coafl: is formed into a fifth bay; of which th»s point is the Northern ex- treme ; and from it, to the Southern extreme, is about four milf's in the diresftion of South South Eaft a Eall. In this bay, which obtained the Name of White Bay, on account of fome white fpots of land or rocks in the bottotn of ir, are feveral Icfler bays or coves, which feemed to be lliciccred from all winds.- Off the South point, arc feveral rocks which raifc their heads above water , and, probably, many more that do not. Thus far our courfe was in a dircclion paralle' to the coaft, and not more than two miles from it. Thither our ylafTes were continually pointed; and we could eafily fee that, except the bottoms of the bays and coves, which, for the moil parr, terminated in fandy beaches, the iQiores were rocky, and, in many places, fwarmed wi:h birds ; but the 7 country I '■i*i : t* 72 A V O V A G F. TO Rf ceinber. '! i country ]iaa the fame barren an:l naked appearance as \i\ tl;e ncighl)ourlioo(l of Chridmas Harbour. ■ • V.'c had kept on our laiboarJ bow, the hind which firfl: opened olFCapc St. Louis *, in the dirctftion cf South 53° Eaft, tliinking that it was an ill.ind, find that we fhould find a paf- la^^c between it and the ni lin. \Vc now di (covered thisi to be II niidakc J and found tliat it was a peninfuiai joined to the rcil of the coail by a low iflhinus- i called il>e bay, formed by this peninfuLi, Kcpulfc Bay; and a branch of it fccmed to run a good way inland towards the South South Weft. Leaving this, we ilccred for the Northern point of tlic pcnin- fula, which we named Howe's Foreland, in honoui of Ad- iniral Lord Howe. , . . , , As we drew near it, we perceived fome rocks and breakers near the North Weft part; and two iflands a league and a half to the Eaft ward of it, which, at firft, appeared as one. I fteered between them and the Foreland -I-, and was in the middle of the channel by noon. At that time our latitude, by obfervation, was 48° 51' South ; and we had made twenty- fix miles of Eaft longitude from Cape St. Louis I. From this fituation, 'he moft advanced land to the South- ward bore South Eaft J but the trending of the coaft from ihe Foreland was more Southerly. The iflands which lie * Cp.pc Francois. •)• Though Kerguelen's fliips, in 1773, did not vciiturc to explore this part of the -coart, Monileur de Pages's account of it anfwers well to Captain Cook's. " Du 17 " au 23, Ton ne prit d'autre connoiflance que celje de la figure de la cote, qui, courant " d'abord au Sud-Eft, &: rcvenant enfuite au Nord-Eft, formoit un grand golfe. II "" etcit occupc par des brifans & des rocL-ers ; il r.voit audi une iilc bafle, & afTcz " etciiduc, & Ton uCa d'une bicn foigncufc precaution, pour ne pas s'afFaler 1 iirii i'.:r I :i5 i iil^ ' ^ m I'i it 74 17/6. Dccemlicr. A VOYAGE TO Wc were now crofs the mouth of a large bay, that licf5 about eight miles to the Southward of Howe*s Foreland. la and before the entrance of this bay are fcvcral low illands, rocks, and thofe beds of fea-weed. But there fecmcd to be winding channels between them. After continuing our courfc half an hour longer, wc were {o much embarrafTcd with thcfe flioals, that I rcfolved to haul off 10 the liafl- ward, as the likeliell means of extricating ourfelves from the danger that threatened us. but fo far was this from anfwcring the intended purpofe, that it brought us into more. 1 therefore found it abfolutely neceflary to fecure the fliips, if poflible, in fome place before night ; efpecially as the weather had now become hazy, and a iog was ap- prehended. And feeing fome inlets to the South VVcft of us, I ordered Captain Gierke, as the Difcovery drew lefs water than the Refolution, to lead in for the (liore; which was accordingly done. In ftandmg in, it was not poflible to avoid running over the edges cf fome of the Ihoals, on which wc found from ten to twenty fathoms water; and the moment we were over, had no ground at the depth of fjfty fathoms. At'icv making a few boards to weather a fpit that run out from an iiland on our lee, Captain Gierke made the fignal for having difcovered an harbour ; in which, about five o'clock, we anchored in fifteen fathoms water, over a bottom of fine dark fand, about three quarters of a mile from the fliore ; the North point of the harbour bearing North by Eaft ^ Eaft, one mile dillant ; and the fmall idands in the entrance, within which we anchored, extending from Eaft to South Eaft. Scarcely were the fliips fecurcd, when it began to blow very ftrong ; fo that we thought it prudent to ftrike top- 7 gallanc THE PACIFIC OCEAN. gallant yards. The weather, however, continued fair ; and the wind difpcrfing the fog that had fettled on the hills, it was tolerably clear alfo. The moment, therefore, we had anchored, I hoifted out two boats j in one of which I icnt Mr. liligh, the Maftcr, to furvey the upper-part of the har- bour, and look for v/ood ; for not a flirub was to be feen from the fliip. I alfo dcfircd Captain Clerke to fend his Mafler to found the channel that is on tlie South fide of the fmall ifles, between them and a pretty large iiland which lies near the South point of the harbour. Having given thcfc directions, I went myfelf, in my other boat, accompa- nied by Mr. Gore, my firll Lieutenant, and Mr. Baily, and landed on the North point, to fee what 1 could difcover from thence. From the highefl: hill over the point, we had a pretty good view of the fea-coaft, as far as Howe's Foreland. It is much indented, and feveral rocky points feemed to flioot out from it, with coves and inlets of unequal extent. One of the latter, the end of which I could not fee, was dif- joined from that in wliich the lliips were at anclior, by the point we then flood upon. A great many fmall iflands, rocks, and breakers appeared fcattcrcd along the coaft, as well to the Souti\ward as Northward ; and I faw no better channel to get out of the harbour, than by the one through which we had entered it. • While Mr. Baily and I were making the obfcrvations, IVh'. Gore encompaflcd tlie hill; and joined us by a difTcrcnt route, at tiie place where I had ordered the boat to wait for us. Except the craggy precipices, we met with nothing to obllru6t our walk. For the country was, if polliblc, more barren ani dcfolaie than about Chriilmas Harbour. And L z yet. 75 December, ■ k\ * . 4 1 ,in;J ^ ^ ^7^^^-C IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) r^ 1.0 I.I 1.25 ■50 ^^ u 134 2.0 1.4 Ml 6" V] (^ ^r M w^i 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation 13 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 145S0 (716) 873-4S03 76 A VOYAGE TO ; ;] lli *776- yet, if there be the leaft fertiUty in any part of this land, ^— -V — -* we ought to have found it in this, which is completely flieltered from the predominating bleak Southerly and Weflerly winds. I obferved» with regret, that there was neither food nor covering for cattle of any fort; and that, if I left any, they muft inevitably perifli. In the little cove where the boat waited for us (which I called Penguin Cove, as the beach was covered with thefe birds), is a fine rivulet of frefli water, that may be eafily come at. Here were alfo fome large feals, fhags, and a few ducks j and Mr. Daily had a tranfient fight of a very fmall land bird ; but it flew amongfl the rocks, and we lofl; it. About nine o'clock we got on board. Soon after, Mr. Bligh returned, and reported, that he had been four miles up the harbour, and, as he judged, not far from the head of it. He found that its direction was Weft South Weft ; and that its breadth, a little above the (hips, did not exceed a milej but grew narrower towards the head. The foundings were very irregular, being from thirty-feven to ten fathoms ; and, except under the beds of fea-weed, which in many places extendeo from the fhore near half channel over, the bottom was a fine fand. He landed on both fhores, which he found barren and rocky, without the leaft figns of tree or fhrub, and with very little verdure of any kind. Penguins, and other oceanic birds and feals, oc- cupied part of the coaftj but not in fuch numbers as at Chriftmas Harbour. Finding no encouragement to continue our refearches, Monday 30. and, the next morning, both wind and weather being fa- vourable, I weighed anchor and put to fea. To this harbour I gave the name of Port Pal lifer, in honour of my wonky friend ft THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 77 H'S friend Admiral Sir Hugh Pallifer. It is fimated in the lati- tude of 49° 3' South, in the longitude of 69° 37' Eaft, and five leagues from Howe's Foreland, in the diredlion of South 25" Eaft. There are feveral iflands, rocks, and breakers lying in and without the entrance, for which the annexed Chart of the coaft, and Iketch of the harbour, may be con- fulted. We went in and out between them and the North head i but I have no doubt that there are other channels. As we were {landing out of Port Pallifer, we difcovered a round hill, like a fugar-loaf, in the diredion of South 72° Eaft, about nine leagues diftant. It had the appearance of an ifland lying at fome diftance from the coaft ; but we afterwards found it was upon the main land. In getting out to fea, we had to fleer through the winding channels atnongft the (hoals. However, we ventured to run over fome of them, on which we never found lefs than eighteen fathoms, and often did not ftrike ground with twenty- four; fo that, had it not been for the fea-weed growing upon all of them, they would not have been difcovered. After we had got about three or four leagues from the coaft, we found a clear fea, and then fteered Eaft till nine o'clock, when the Sugar Loaf hill, above mentioned, which I named Mount Campbell, bore South Eaft, and a fmall ifland that lies to the Northward of ir. South South Eaft, diftant fpur leagues. I now fteered more Southerly, in or- der to get in with the land. At noon, the latitude by double altitudes was 49° 8' South ; and we had made eighty miles of Eaft longitude fron. Cape St. Louis*. Mount Campbell bore South 47° Weft, diftant about four leagues ; a low point, beyond which no land was to be fecu, bore South * Cape Francois, . South . 1776. December. ^ Ma, •■< ■» ( ^i 78 '(■ 1776. Decern lifr. A VOYAGE TO South Eafl, at the diftancc of about twenty miles; and vvc were about two leagues from the fliore. The land here is low and level *. The mountains ending about five leagues from the low point, a greac extent of low land is left, on which Mount Campbell is fituated, about four miles from the foot of the mountains, and one from the fea coaft. Thefe mountains have a confulerable eleva- tion, as alio mofl of the inland ones. They feemed to be compofed of naked rocks, whofe fummits were capt with fnow. Nor did the valleys appear to greater advantage. To whatever quarter we dire<5led our glaffes, nothing but llerility was to be feen. We had fcarcely fini(hed taking the bearings at noon, before we obferved low land opening off the low point juit mentioned, in the dire<51:ion of South South Eaft, and eight miles beyond it. This new point proved to be the very Eaftern extreiifiity of this land, and it was named Cape Digby. It is fituated in the latitude of 49° 23' South, and in the longitude of 70° 34' Eaft. Between Howe's Foreland and Cape Digby, the fhore forms (befidcs the feveral lefler bays and harbours) one great bay that extends feveral leagues to the South Weft, where it feemed to lofc itfelf in various arms running in between the mountains. A prodigious quantity of fea- wecd grows all over it, which feemed to be the fame fort of weed that Mr. Banks diftinguifhed by the name of fucus ^' Tills part of the coaft feems to be what the French faw on the 5th of January J 774.. Mrjiifieiir de I'agcs fpeaks of it thus : " Nous uconnumes une nouvelle cote ■■' eiciiduc de toute veu dans I'Eft, & dans ie Ouefl. Lcs terres de cettc cote ctoient •' nwins tlcvcvs que cellcs que nous avions veues jufcjut£ icij dies ctoient aufli d'un " aCpect nioins rude." 1): Pages, Tom. ii. p. 6i). • ■ • ■ gi^nnteiis. I ':( THE PACIFIC OCEAN. giganteui *. Some of this weed is of a mod enormous length, though the ftem is not much thicker than a man's thumb. I have mentioned, that on fome of the flioals upon which it grows, we did not ftrike ground with a Hne of twenty-four fathoms. The depth of water, therefore, muft have been greater. And as this weed does not grow in a perpendicu- lar dire(flion, but makes a very acute angle with the bot- tom, and much of it afterwards fpreads many fathoms on the furface of the fea, I am well warranted to fay, that fome of it grows to the length of fixty fathoms and up- ward. • At one o'clock (having run two leagues upon a South Eaft 4 Eaft courfe, from noon) we founded, and found eighteen fathoms water, and a bottom of fine fand. Seeing a fmall bending in the coafl, on the North fide of Cape Digby, I fleered for it. It was my intention to anchor there, if I fliould find it might be done with fafety, and to land on the Cape, to examine what the low land within it pro- -'uced. After running in one league, we founded again, and found thirteen fathoms ; and immediately after, faw a flioal right before us, that fecmed to extend off from the Ihore, from which we were diftant about two miles. This difcovery obliged us to haul ofT, Eaft by South, one league, where our depth of water encrcafed to twenty-five fathoms. We then fleered along fliore, and continued in the fame depth, over a bottom of fine fand, till Cape Digby bore Weft, two leagues diftant, when we found twenty-fix fa- thoms. After this we did not ftrike ground, though wc tried feveral times ; but the lliip having a good deal of way, ran See Hawkcfworth's CoUedli'^n of Voyages, Vol. ii. p. 42. the 79 1776. December. r J.' 1 f ■'J •'<■«' M n '.f"l ■ ■ -iis * ' '43 'Hi* 1 1'< 80 1776- "December. AVOYAGETO the line out before the lead could reach the bottom ; and being difappointed in my views both of anchoring and of landing, I would not fliorten fail, but pufhed forward, in order to fee as much of the coaft as poflible before nighr. From Cape Digby, it trends nearly South Weft by South for about four or five leagues, or to a low point, to which, in honour of her Majefty, I gave the name of Point Char- lotte, and it is the Southernmoll on the low coaft. Six leagues from Cape Digby, in the {i'.'e(^ion of South South Weft T Weft, is a pretty high projeding point, which was called Prince of Wales's Foreland ; and fix leagues be- yond that, in the fame diredtion, and in the latitude of 49° 54' South, and the longitude of 70° 13' Eaft, is the mofl; Southerly point of the whole coaft, which I diftinguiihed by the name of Cape George, m honour of his Majefty. Between Point Charlotte and Prince of Wales's Forelf:nd, where the country to the South Weft began again to be hilly, is a deep inlet, which was called Royal Sound. It runs in Weft, quite to the foot of the mountains which bound it on the South Weft, as the low land before-men- tioned does on the North. There are iflands lying in the entrance, and others higher up, as far as we could diftin- guiili. As we advanced to the South, we obferved, on the South Weft fide of Prince of Wales's Foreland, another inlet into Royal Sound ; and it then appeared, that the Foreland was the Eaft point of a large ifland lying in the mouth of it. Theie are feveral fmall iflands in this inlet ; and one about a league to the Southward of Prince of Wales's Foreland. All the land on t^e South Weft fide of Royal Sound, quite to Cape George, is compofed of elevated hills, that rife di- rjEcStly from the feai one behind another, to a confiderable 4. height, :%.v THE PACIFIC OCEAM. 8[ height. Moft of the fummits were capt with fnow, and they appeared as naked and barren as any we had feen. The fmallefl: veftige of a tree or Qirub was not difcovcrable, either inland or on the coaft ; and, I think, I may venture to pronounce that the country produces none. The low land about Cape Digbys when examined through our glailes, refembied the reft of the low land we had before met with ; that is, it appeared to be partly naked and partly covered with a green turf; a defcription of which fliall be given in its proper place. The (hore is compofed of fandy beaches, on which were many penguins, and other oceanic birds ; and an immenfe number of fhags kept perpetually flying , about the ihips as we failed along. Being defirous of getting the length of Cape George, to be aflured whether or no it was the moft Southerly point of the whole land, I continued to ftretch to the South, under all the fail we could carry, till half an hour paft feven o'clock J when, fe.ing no likelihood of accomplifhing my defign, as the wind had, by this time, fliifred to Weft South Weft, the very direcHiion in which we wanted to go, I took the advantage of the ftiifting of the wind, and flood away from the coaft. At this time Cape George bore South 53° Weft, diftant about feven leagues. A fmall ifland that lies of! the pitch of the Cape, was the only laad we could fee to the South of it ; and we were farther confirmed that there was no more in that quarter, by a South Weft fwell which we met as foon as we brought the Cape to bear in this direcT:ion. But we have ftill a ftronger proof that no part of this land cari extend much, if at all, to the Southward of Cape G orge } and that is, Captain Furneaux's track in February Vol. I. M i773» 1776. December. f'. if ■ '!4 ■i ■.t f 'tis m M 82 A VOYAGE lO i77«. December. 1773, after his reparation from me during my late voyage; His log-book is now lying before me ; and I find from it» that he crofTed the meridian of this land only about feven- teen leagues to the Southward of Cape George } a diftance at which -it may very well be feen in clear weather. This feems to hav;; been the cafe when Captain Furneaux pafTed it. For his log-book makes no mention of fogs or hazy weather j on the contrary, it cxprefsly tells us, that, when in this fituation, they h* it in their power to make obfer- vations, both for latitude and longitude, on board his fhip;^ fo that, if this land extends farther South than Cape George, it would have been fcarcely poifible that he ihould have pafTed without feeing it. From thefe circumflances we are able to determine, within a very few miles, the quantity of latitude that thi» land occupies ; which does not much exceed one degree and a quarter. As to its extent from Eafl to Wefl, that flill re- mains undecided. We only know, that no part of it can reach fo far to the Wed; as the meridian of 65"; becaufe, in- 1773, under that meridian, I fearched for it in vain K The French difcovercrs, with fome reafon, imagined Cape St. Louis -f* to be the projecting point of a Southern conti- nents * If the French obfervations, as marked upon Captain Cook's Chart, and ftill more authentically upon that ^;ublifbed by their own difcoverers, maybe depended upon,, this land doth not reach fo far to the Weft as the meridian of 68° ; Cape Louis, which is reprefented a: its moft Wefterly point, being laid down by them to the £aft of that meridian. t The idea of Cape Louis being this projecting point of a Southern continent, muft have foon vaniflied, as Cape Francois, within a year after, was found, by the fame difcovercr, to lie above one third of a degree farther North, upon the fame land. But if Kerguelen entertained any fuch imagination at firft, we are fure that, at prefenr» he thinks very differently. This appears from the following explicit declaration of hia fentiments, which deferves to be tranfcribed from his late publication, as it does equal A honour ,»H f Vj JV*i A" HV "?"■!': ■»v I. ^ - THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ncnt. The Englifh have fincc proved that no fuch continent exifts ; and tliat the land in queftion is an ifland of no great extent * } which, from its (leriHty, I fliould, with great pro- priety, call the Ifland of Defolation, but that I would not rob Monfieur de Kcrguelen of the honour of its bearing his name t< honour tohi» candour, and to Captain Cook's abilities. •* La terre que j'ai decou- «« verte eft ccrtiinement unr IJlt \ puifquc Ic cclcbrc Capitainc Cook a paifc au Sud, «* loM dc fon premiere voyage, fans ricn rencontrcr. Jc jugc mcmc, que cettc ifle «Vyf •• fat htm grandt, II y a aufli apparencc, d'apres Ic Voyage de Monfieur Cook, ** que toutc cette ^tenduc de Mers Meridionales, eft fcmee d'Ifles ou de rochers ) «« mais qu'il n'y a ni ttntitunt ni grand* ttrrt." Kcrguelen, p. 92. * Ker^jelen, as we fee in the laft Note, concurs with Captain Cook as to this. However, he tells us, that he has reafon to believe that it is about two hundred leagues in circuit \ and that he was acquainted with about fourfcore leagues of its coaft. *« J'cn connois environs quatre-vingt licues des cotes ; & j'ai lieu de croire, qu'elle " a environ deux cents lieucs de circuit." Kirgutlirif ibid. ■\ Some of Monfieur de Kerguelen's own countrymen fcem more dcfirous than wc are, to rob him of this honour. It is very remarkable that Monfieur de Pages never once mentions the name of his commander. And, though he takes occafion to enu- merate the feveral French explorers of the Southern Hemifpherc, from Goniicville down to Crozet, he afFe£ts to preferve an entire filcnce about Kerguelen, whofc firft voyage, in which the difcovery of this confiderablc tra6t of land was made, is kept as much out of fight, as if it never had taken place. Nay, not fatisfied with rcfuHng to acknowledge the right of another, he almoft aiTumes it to himfuif. For upon a Map of the World, annexed to his book, at the fpot where the new land is delineated, we read this infcription : IJles miweUes Aujiralti vuies par Monfieur de Pages, en 1774. He could fcarcely have expreifed himfelf in ftronger terms, if he had meant to convey an idea that he was the condutilor of the uifcovery. And yet we know, that he was only a Lieutenant [Enfeigne de vailleau] on board one of the three fliips commanded by Kerguelen ; and that the difcovery had been already mads in a former voyage, un- dertaken while he was actually engaged in his fingular journey round the world. After all, it cannot but be remarked, that Kerguelen ws peculiarly unfortunate, in having done fo little to complete what he had btgun. He difcovered a new land indeed ; but, in two expeditions to it, he could not once bring his fhips to ai; anchor upon any part of its coafts. Captain Cook, as we have feen in this, and in the foregoing Chapter, had either fewer difficulties to ftrugglc with, or was more fuccefsful in fur- mounting thenv. M 2 Mr. T776. December. K 1 - h 'J'linoVirws ,/ .\rrlj«Ml I'dinl ..// /»>/• Tk-vv ,>/J\EJi()l'J-JLE\\t LAJ^ 'Siv^i ,iiif.< -S'' >i fni/r.\ i/ts/,i/if iii.'y^ ot'l\EIiOl'IJLJiN's La,\'J/) t i fnil.s .iist.tiit sjw 'KUVELEN'S LA.^'H when Trim-r ,'/' Wales'.. ll'Virclatid hmr.^ fVS.W. jr.i»r.i/,aV/j/«/i/ I :i i> I 84 If-;: 1776. December. A V O Y A G E T O Mr. Anderfon, my Surgeon, who, as I have already men- tioned, had made Natural Hiftory a part of his ftudies, loft no opportunity, during the fhort time we lay in Chriftmas Harbour, ot fearching the country in every dire(5tion. He afterwards communicated to me the obfervaiions he made on its natural produdionsj and I ftiall infert them here in his own words. " Perhaps no place, hitherto difcovercd in either hemi- fphere, under the fame parallel of latitude, affords fo fcanty a field for the naturalift as this barren fpo:. The verdure which appears, when at a little difiance from the Ihore, would flatter one with the expedlation of meeting with fome herbage; but in this we were much deceived. For on land- ing, we faw that this lively colour was occafioned only by one fmall plant, not much unlike fome forts of faxi/ra^e, "vhich grows in large fpreading tufts, to a confiderable way up the hills. It forms a furface of a pretty large texture* and grows on a kind of rotten turf, into which one finks a foot or two at every ftep. This turf, dried, might, in cafes of neceffity, ferve for fuel, and is the only thing we met with here that could poflibly be applies io this ufe. There is another plant, plentifully enough fcattered about the boggy declivities, which grows to near the height of two feet, and not much unlike a fmall cabbage, when it has fliot into feeds. The leaves about the root are nume- rous, large, and rounded ; narrower at the bafe, and ending in a Imall point. Thofe on the ftalks are much fmallcr,. oblong, and pointed. The ftalks, which are often three or four, all rife feparately from the root, and run into long cylindrical heads, compofed of fmall flowers. It has not only 1;' ■". THE PACIFIC OCEAN. only th appearance, but the watery acrid tafte of the anti- fcorbutic plants, and yet differs materially from the whole tribe ; fo that we looked upon it as a production entirely peculiar to the place. We eat it frequently raw, and found it almoft like the New Zealand fcurvy-grals. But it feemed to acquire a rank flavour by being boiled ; which, however, fome of our people did not perceive, and efleemed it good. If it could be introduced into our kitchen gardens* it would, in all probability, improve fo far by cultivation, as to be an excellent po^-herb. At this time, none of its feeds wer.3 ripe enough to be preferved, and brought home» to try the experiment. Two other fmall plants were found near the brooks and boggy places, which were eaten as fallad ; the one almoft like garden crefles, and very fiery; and the other very mild. This laft, though but fmall, is in itfelf a curiofity ; hav- ing not only male and female, but what the botanifts call androgymus plants. A coarfe grafs, which we cut down for the cattle, grows pretty plentifully in a few fmall fpots about the fides of the harbour, with a fmaller fort which is rarer; and, upon the flat ground, a fort of goofe-grafs, and another fmall plant much like it. In fliort, the whole catalogue of plants does not exceed fixtcen or eighteen, including fomc forts of mofs, and a beautiful fpecies of lichen, which grows upon the rocks, higher up than the reft of the vegetable produc- tions. Nor is there even the leaft appearance of a flirub in the whole country. Nature has rather been more bountiful in furnifliing it with animals ; though, ftri^tly fpcaking, they are not inha- bitants of the place, being all of tue marine kind j and, in general. 85 1776. December. ■I M m t W' '^••(i N 'M fi .', i> ; 1776. December. AVOYAGETO general, only ufing the land for breeding, and for a refting- place. The moft confiderable are feals, or (ab wc ufed to call them) fea bears ; being that fort called the urfine feal. Thefe come afhore to reft or breed ; but they were not very numerous, which is not to be wondered at, as it is knov. n that thefe animals rather frequent out-rocks, and little iflands lying off coafts, than bays or inlets. They were, at this time, Ihedding their hair, and fo tame, that we killed what number we chofe. No other quadruped, either of the fep or of the land kind, was feen ; but a great number of birds, viz. ducks, petrels, albatrofTes, fliags, gulls, and fca-fwallows. The ducks are about the fize of a teal or widgeon ; but fomewhat different in colour from either. They were in tolerable plenty about the fides of the hills, or even lower ; and we killed a confiderable number, which were good, and without the leaft fifliy tafte. We met with fome of the fame fort at the ifland of Georgia, in our late voyage. The Cape petrel, or Pintado bird; the fmall blue one, which is always feen at fea ; and the fmall black one, or Mother Carey's Chicken, are not here in great numbers. But we found a neft of the firft with an egg in it, about the fize of a pullet's ; and the fecond, though fcarcc, was met with in fome holes like rabbit-burrows. Another fort, which is the largcft of all the petrels, and called by the feamcn Mother Carey's Goofc, is in greater numbers; and fo tame, that at iiift we could kill them with a flick upon the beach. They r\re not inferior in fize to an albatrofs, and are carnivorous, feeding on the dead carcafTes of feals or birds, that were thrown into the fea. Their I'- ■[ »> THEPACIFICOCEAN. %f Their colour is a futty brown, with a ereenifh bill and feet; ^ ^77^,- ' ° December. and, doubtlefs, they are the fame that the Spaniards call ' — ' quebrantahuejfos^ whofe head is figured in Pernetty's Voyage to Falkland Iflands ♦. . , Of the albatrofTcs, none were found on fhore except the grey one, which is commonly met with at fea in the higher Southern latitudes. Once I faw one of thefe fitting in the clifF of a rock, but they were frequently flying about the harbour ; and the common large fort, as well as a fmaller with a black face, were feen farther out. Penguins form, by far, the greateft number of birds here; and are of three forts : The firft, or largeft, I have feen formerly at the ifland of Georgia f. It is alfo mentioned by Bougainville X\ but it does not feem to be fo folitary as he reprefents it, for we found confiderable numbers flocking together. The head is black, the upper part of the body a leaden grey, and the under part white, with black feet. It has two broad ftripes of fine yellow, that begin en the fides of the head, and defcending by each fide of the neck, meet above its breaft. The bill is partly reddifli, and longer than in the other forts. The fecond fort of penguin fcarcely exceeds half the fize of the former. The upper part of the body is a blackifh grey, with a white fpot on the upper part of the head,, growing broader at each fide. The bill and feet are yel- lowifli. A very accurate figure and defcription, both of this- and of the preceding, is given by Mr. Sonncrat §. • Fig. 3. Plate VIII. f Pennant's Patagonian penguin. See his Genera of Birds. Tab. 14. p. 66. X Voyage autour du Monde, p. 69. § Voyage a la Nouvelle Guinee, p. 181, 182. Tab. 113. 1 1 5. The Iv? 1 ^ ■$ m '4 '^1 18 Deiember. A V O Y A G E T O • The third fort of penguin met with here, had never been feen by any of us before. Its length is twenty-four inches, and its breadth twenty. The upper part of the body and throat are black ; the reft white, except the upper part of the head, which has a fine yellow arch, looking backward, and ending on each fide in long foft feathers, which it can ere(5l as two crefts. / , The two firft forts were found together on the beach ; the large ones keeping by themfelves, and walking in fmall flocks amongft the others, which were more numerous, and were fometimes feen. a confiderable way up the fides of the hills. The third ^Drt were only found by themfelves, but in great numbers, on the outer fliores of the harbour. They were breeding at this time ; and they lay, on the bare ftones, only one white Qggy larger than that of a duck. All the three forts of penguins were fo tame, that we took as many as we plcafed with our hands. i The fliags of this place are of two forts ; the lefTer corvo- rant or water crow, and another, which is black above, with a white belly; the fame that is found in New Zealand, Ter- ra del Fuego, and the iiland of Georgia. We alfo met with here the common fea-gull, fea-fwallovv, tern, and Port Egmont henj the laft of which were tame and numerous. Another fort of white bird, flocks of which flew about the bay, is very Angular ; having the bafe of the bill co- vered with a horny cruft *. It is larger than a pigeon, with the oill black and the feet white, made like thofe of a cur- * The (licath-bill. See Pumani's Genera of Birds, p. 43. lew. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. lew. Some of our people put it in competition with the duck, as food. : . t _ The feinc was hauled once ; but we found only a few full about the lizc of a fmall haddock ; though quite different from any we knew. The fnout is lengthened ; the head armed with fome ftrong fpines ; the rays of the back- fin long, and very flrong; the belly is large; and the body without fcales. The only Ihell filh are a few limpets and mufclcs; and, amongfl: the fiones, a few fmall ftar-fifh, and fea-anemonies, were found. The hills are of a moderate height; yet many of their tops weie covered with fnow at this time, though anfwer- ing to our June. Some of them have large quantities of flones, irregularly heaped together at theic foot, or on their fides. The fides of others, which form fleep cliffs towards the fea, are rent from the top downward, and feem ready to fall ofl', having ftones of a confiderable fize lying in the fiffures. Some were of opinion that frofl might be the caufe of thefe fiffures, which I fliall not dilpute ; but how others of the appearances could be effedlcd, but by earthquakes, or fome fuch fevere fliocks, I cannot fay. It appears that rain mufl be almofl: conftant here, not only from the marks of large torrents having ruflied down, but from the difpofition of the country, which, even on the hills, is almofl an entire bog or fvvamp, the ground finking at every flep. The rocks, or foundations of the 'ills, are compofed chiefly of a d.nk blue, and very hard, flone, intermixed with fmall particles of glimmer or quartz. This feems to be one of tlie mofl univerfal produrtions of Nature, as it conftitutes whole mountains in Sweden, in Scotland, at the Vol. I. K Canary 8. 1776. December. •••ts i\ m 90 1776. December. A VOYAGE TO Canary Iflands, the Cape of Good Hope, and at this place AnotVier brownifti brittle ftone forms here fome confuler- able rocks ; and one which is blacker, and found in dt- tached pieces, inclofes bits of coarfe quartz. A red> a dull yellow, and a purpliOi fand-ftone, are alfo found in fmall pieces ; and pretty large lumps of femi-tranfparent quaiiz, difpofed irregularly in polyedral pyramidal cryftals of long fhining fibres. Some fmall pieces of the common fort are met with in the brooks, made round by attrition ; but none hard enough to refill a file. Nor were any of the other (tones a(fled on by aqua fortis, or attra<5ted by the magnet. Nothing, that had the lead appearance of an ore or mc^ tal, was feen." "K m CHAP. li 1 «■■§ ^^^B Imm \WSm mm M i - # l> ' . ' 1.1 "ll is I; I 1 T^IE PACIFIC OCEAN. 1^ 4: ^ 'r C H A P. VL ^^/^i^ f^^^f^ Kerguelens to Van Diemens Land, — Ar^ rival in Adventure Bay. — Incidents there, — Interviews with the Natiipes, — TJjeir Perfo^s^ and Drefs dejcribed, — Account of their Behaviour, — Table of the Longitude^ Latitude^ and Variation, — Mr. Anderfons Obfervations on the natiral ProduBions of the Country^ on the Inha- bitants^ a?td their LangtiistFe, .. ^, AFTER leaving Kerguelen'a Land, I fleered Eaft by North, intending, in obedience to my inftru(5lions, to touch next at New Zealand ; to Wcruit our water, to take in Wood, and to make hay for the cattle. Their number, by this time, had been confiderably diminilhed j two young bulls, one of the heifers, two rams, and feveral of the goats having of late died, while we were, employed in ex- ploring this defolate coaft. 9< ni' 776. ember. -*~>K The 31ft, in the morning, being the day after we flood T out to fea, we had feveral obfervations of the fuii and moon. Their rcfults gave the longitude 72° 33' 3'' i.*,.lir.t.V U.«» ..rr/- Kluu.! I' ..p.. ..*-'. K....II. I •.|" *••'" -V.VA-M' -t^^A"" ; "'"" rvnjniiuinAiiil Vi»w ,y ,yM, i.i.rn .', M»t.Mt 1'j|.i' »*", nnpiiii iri*ii.l *.,«.< XlVHr i i milr ihjhmt View ry I'.t.v l>lf:Mi:y'.f LAXn »>irn ihr Mt^lonr *l -^= L i ■ iJ ' T' rr ; .# r i-l~J r~t III II J-TTr it J i t t i i T"t i 1 i i H* uiilh l'.«|i» hiiir.t SSKiH ili/hml ' milrn t';i|irHTilrrirk llciiry IVnjpilulOMlitl «li 118 -*•' ii LI II •i I •777' Jjnu.try. ThurfJayi. triday j. TuefJ«y 7. Sunday ix. Sunday 19. AVOYAGETO Weft; and the next day, in the latitude of 48* 22' South, longitude 8o' 22' Eaft, it was 30° 47' 18" Weft. This was the grcatcll variation wc found in this paftagc ; for afterward it hegan to dccreafc, but fo flovvly, that on the 3d, in the evening, being then in the latitude of 48° 16' South, longi- tude Ds" Eaft, it was kj 38' Weft. Thus far we had frcfli gales from the Weft and South Weft, and tolerably clear weather. But now the wind veered to the North, where it continued eight days, and was attended with a thick fog. During this time, we ran above three hundred leagues in the dark. Now and then the weather would clear up, and give us a fight of the fun ; but this happened very feldom, and was always of fhort continu- ance. On the 7th, I hoifted out a boat, and fent an order to Captain Gierke, appointing Adventure Bay, in Van Diemen'a Land, as our place of rendezvous, in cafe of reparation be- fore we arrived in the meridian of that land. But we were fortunate enough, amidft all this foggy weather, by fre- quently firing guns as fignals, though wc feldom faw each other, not to lofe company. On the i2ih, being in the latitude of 48*40' South, lon- gitude 110° 26' Euft, the Northerly winds ended in a calm; which, after a few hours, was fucceeded by a wind from the Southward. Ihis, with rain, continued for twenty-four hours ; when it frefliencd, and veered to the Weft and North Weft, and brought on fair and clear weather. We continued our courfe to the Eaftward, without meet- ing with any thing worthy of notice, till four o'clock in the morning of the 19th ; when, in a fudden fquall of wind, though the Difcovery received no damage, our fore-top-mafl: went by the board, and carried the main-top gallant-maft with THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 93 with it. This occafioncd fomc delay, as it took us up the ,"77« whole day to clear the wreck, and to fit another top-mall. — >— ^ The former was accompUnicd without lofing any part of it, except a few fathoms of fmall rope. Not having a fpare main-top-gallant-maft on boaid, tiie forc-top-gallant-mafl was converted into one for our immediate ufe. The wind continued Wefterly, blew a frefli gale, and was attended with clear weather; fo that fcarcely a day pafTcd without being able to get obfcrvations for fixing the longi- tud'!, and the variation of the compafs. The latter dc- creafcd in fuch a manner, that in the latitude of 44° 18' South, longitude 132° 2' Eaft, it was no more than 5° 34' 18" Weft; and on the 22d, being ihen in the latitude of 43*27' WeineC.zt^ South, longitude 141° 50' Eaft, it was 1° 24' 15" F.aft. So that we had crofTed the line where the compafs has no vari» ation. On the a4th, at three o'clock in the morning, we dlfco- Friday 24.. . vered the coaft of Van Dlemcn's Land, bearing Nortli | Weft. At four o'clock, the South Weft Cape bore North North Weft '- Weft ; and the Mewnonc, North Eaft by Ilaft, three leagues diftant. There are feveral iftands and high rocks lying fcattered along this part of the coaft, the South- crnmoft of which is the Mewftone. It is a round elevated rock, five or fix leagues diftant from the South Weft Cape, in the direction of South 55° Eaft. At noon, our latitude was 43° 47' South, longitude 147* Eaft; and the fituation of the lands round us as follows: An elevated round-topped hill bore North 17' Weft; the South Weft Cape North 74* Weft; the Mewftone Weft '- North; - Swilly Ifle or Rock South 49" Eaft; and the Soutli Eaft or South Cape North 40* Eaft, diftant near three leagues. The land- . • ''-I 1 . hi M ilm ..» :; 1 94 A VOYAGE TO January. I'' I'- i [•-.:': r It!*''! SuiJav iC. land between the South Weft and the South Capes is broken and hilly, the co;ifl; winding, with points Ihooting out from it; but we were too far oiT, to be able to judge whether the bays formed by thefe points were fhv.!tcrcd from the fea- winds. The bay which appeared to be the largefl: and dccpeft, Hcs to the Weflward of the peaked hill above- mentioned. The variation of the compafs here, was 5° 15' Eart. * * I At fix o'clock in the afternoon we founded, and found fixty fathoms water, over a bottom of broken coral and fhells. The South Cape then bore North 75° Weft, two or three leagues diftant ; Tafman's Head North Eaft ; and Swilly Rock South by Weft 4. Weft. About a league to the Eaft- ward of Swilly, is another elevated rock, that is not taken notice of by Captain Furneaux. I called it the Eddyftone, from its very great refemblance to that light-houfe. Nature fectns to have left thefe two rocks here, for the fame pur- pofe that the Eddyftone light-houfe was built by man, 'viz. to give navigators notice of the dangers around them. For they are the conlpicuous fummits of a ledge of rocks under water, on which the fca, in many places, breaks very high. Their furface is white v;i:h the dung of fea-fowls; fo fhat they may be fecn at fome diftance, even in the night. On the North Eaft fide of Storm Bay, which lies between the South Cape and lafman's llead, there are fome coves or creeks, that ll'cmcd to be flicltercd from the fea-winds ; and 1 am of opinion thu,t, v.erc this coaft examined, there would be found fume good harbours. ' Soon after we had fight of land the Wefterly winu's left us, and were fuccecded by variable light airs and alternute calms, till th" 2^'th at noon. A: mat time a breeze fprunp- 7 ' up THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 95 >777- Jnnii.iry, lip and freihened at South Eaft, which put it in my power to carry into execution the defign I liad, upon due confidera- tion, formed, of carrying the (hips into Adventure Bay, where I might expe777' January. m m \--M ; if'. I ?ir u, t , I 1777- January. jS A V O Y A G E T O ' of that party, not knowing that they had paid us Co friendly a vifir, nor what their intent might be, fired a miifquet in the air, which fent them off with the greateft precipita- tion.. ■ ■ ■ •■ ' •"-■•". '- •' ■»'■• Thus ended our firfl; interview with the natives. Imme- diately after" their final retreat, judging that their fears would prevent their remaining near enough to obferve what was paffinj^, I ordered the two pigs, being a boar and fow, to be carried about a mile within the woods, at the head of the bay. I faw thtm left there, by the fide of a frefli-water brook. A young bull and a cow, and fome flieep and goats, were alfo, at firft, intended to have been left by me, as an additional prefent to Van Diemen's Land. But I foon laid afide all thought of thi^, from a perfuafion that the natives^ incapable of entering mto my views of improving their country, would deftroy them. If ever they fliould meet with the pigs, I have no doubt this will be their fate. But as that race of animals foon becomes wild, and is fond of the thickeft cover of the woods, there is great probability of their being preferved. An open place mull have been chofen for the accommodation of the other cattle ; and in fuch a fituation, they could not pofllbly have remained con- cealed many days. Wednef. zg. Thc moming of the 29th was ufhered in with a dead calm, which continued all day, and effecSlually prevented our failing. I therefore fent a party over to the Eafl point of thc bay to cut grafs; having been informed that fome of a fuperior quality grew there, i^nother party, to cut wood, was ordered to go to thc ufual place, and I accompanied them myfclf. We had obfcrvcd fcvcral of thc natives, this morn- ing, fauntering along thc fliore, which aflured us, that though Vv T H E P A C I F I C O C E A N. though their confternation had made them leave us Co abruptly the day before, they were convinced that we in- tended them no mifchicf, and were dcfirous of renewing the intercourfe. It was natural that 1 fliould wifli to be pre- fcnt on the occafion. We had not been long landed, before about twenty of them, men and boys, joined us, without exprefling the lead lign of fear or diftruft. There was one of this company confpicu- oully deformed ; and who was not more diftinguifliable by the hump upon his back, than by the drollery of his gcf- turcs, and the feeming humour of his fpcccL-s; which he was very fond of exhibiting, as we fuppofed, for our enter- tainment. Bur, unfortunately, we could not underfland him ; the language fpoken here being wholly unintelligible to us. It appeared to me, to be different from that fpoken by the inhabitants of ths more northern parts of this country, whom I met with in my firfl voyage ; which is not extraor- dinary, fince thofe we now faw, and thofe we then vifited, differ in many other refpeds *". Nor did they fcem to be * The moft ftriking difFcrence feems to be with regard to the texture of the hair. The natives whom Captain Cook met with at Endeavour River in 1769, are faid, by him, to ha\'e naturally long and black hair, thstigb it be !:ni-jcrfally cropped Jhort. In gf- neralit isjlruit, but fomc times it has a fight curl. IVe fazu r„ne that was not matted and filthy. Their beards zirre cf the fame colour iviih the hair, and Lujhy and thick. Sec Hawkefworth's Colleclion, Vol. iii. ch.lp. 8. p. 632. ., r _ It may be neceflary to mention here, on the authority of Captain King-, that Cap. tain Cook was very uiwilhng to allov/ that the liair of the natives now met with in Adventure Bay w;'S ivoolly, fancying that his people, who fir-'i »,'«;'<., ved this-, had been deceived, from its being clotted with greafe ai:d red cchre. Ijut Captain Kin" pre- vailed upon him ;;ftcrv/.ird, to examine carefully the hair cf tlie boys, which was generally, as well as that of the women, free from tnisdirt; and then he owned iiiiii- leif fatisfied that it was naturally woolly. Perhaps we may fuppoic it poiiible, tliat iit; himfilf had been deceived when he was in Kr.deavour River, from this very c:ii.'.un- Aance j as he exprcfily i'ays, tiiat tb.^j fuiv none that v.as not r.uittcd and f':l\. O 2 fucll 99 1777- January, ■ r c ■'■hi ■'■t" : '•if* 'M ■ m ri 100 A VOYAGE TO rii li' ) V,;! ! mi if •777- January. fuch miferable wretches as the natives whom Dampier men- tions to have feen on its weftern coaft *. Some of our prefent groupc wore, loofe, round their necks, three or four folds of fmall cord, made of the fur of fome animal; and others of them had a narrow flip of the kaugooroo fkin tied round their ancles. I gave to each of them a llring of beads, and a medal ; which I thought they received with fome fatisfadlion. They feemed to fet no value on iron, or on iron tools. They were even ignorant of the ufe of filh-hooks, if we might judge from their manner of looking at fome of ours which we Ihewed to them. We cannot, however, fuppofe it to be poflible that a peo- ple who inhabit a fea-coaft, and who feem to derive no part of their fuftenance from the productions of the ground, ihould not be acquainted with fome mode of catching filh, though we did not happen to fee any of them thus employ- ed ; nor obferve any canoe or vefTel, in which they could go upon the water. Though they abfolutely rejedied the fort of fifli that we offered to them, it was evident that fhell- • And yet Dampier's New Hollanders, on the Weftern coaft, bear a ftriking re- fcmblance to Captain Cook's at Van Diemen's Land, in many remarkable inftances: I ft. As to their becoming familiar with the ftrangers. adiy, As to their perfons ; being ftraight-bodied, and thin ; their fkin black ; and black, fhort, curled hair, like the Negroes of Guinea ; with wide mouths. 3dly, As to their wretched condition j having no houfes, no garment, no canoes, no jnftrument to catch large fifh; feeding on broiled mufcles, cockles, and periwinckles ; having no fruits of the earth j their weapons a ftraight pole, fharpened and hardened at the end, &c. &c. The chief peculiarities of Dampier's miferahle wretches are, ift, Their eye-lids be- ing always half clofed, to keep the flies out, which were exceflively troublefome there : und, adly. Their wanting the two fore-teeth of the upper jaw, and their having no beards. See Dainpier's Voyages, Vo). i. p. 464, &c. There feems to be no reafon for fuppofing that Dampier was miftaken in the above account of what he faw. fiOi, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 101 fifli, at leaft, made a part of their food, from the many heaps of mufcle-fliells we faw in different parts near the Ihore, and about fome deferied habitations near the head of the bay. Thefe were little flieds or hovels built of flicks, and covered with bark. We could alfo perceive evident figns of their fometimes taking up their abode in the trunks of large trees, which had been hollowed out by fire, mod probably for this very purpofe. In or near all thefe habita- tions, and wherever there was a heap of (hells, there re- mained the marks of hre; an indubitable proof that they do not eat their food raw. After flaying about an hour with the wooding party and the natives, as I could now be pretty confident that the latter were not likely to give the former any difturbance, I left them, and went over to the grafs-cutters on the Eaft point of the bay, and found that they had mec with a fine patch. Having feen the boats loaded, I left that party, and returned on board to dinner; where, fome time after, Lieutenant King arrived. From him I learnt, that I had but juft left the fliore, when feveral women and children made their appearance, and were introduced to him by fome of the men who attended them. He gave prefents to ail of them, of fuch trifles as he had about him. Thefe females wore a kangooroo fkin (in the fame fliape as it came from the animal) tied over the flioul- dcrs, and round the waifl;. But its only ufe feemed to be, to fupport their children when carried on their backs ; for it did not cover thofe parts which mofl: nations conceal; being, in all other refpeds, as naked as the men, and as black, and their bodies marked with fears in the fame man- ner. But ill this they differed from the men, that though 9 their »777. January. '41 I "11' - ti ■'I ; t; '51 !■:■ 'if')' « ..;, ■^ lea . A V O Y A G E T O i , • tlicir hair was of the fame colour and texture, fomc of thrrn had their heads completely lliorn or fhaved j in others this operation had been performed only en one fide, while the rcll of them had all the upper part of the head Ihorn clofe, leaving a circle of hair all round, fomewhat like the tonfure of the Romifli Hcclefiaftics *. Many of the children had fine features, and were thought pretty j but of the perlbns of the women, efpecially thofc advanced in years, a lefs fa- vourable report was made. However, Ibme of the Gentlemen belonging to the Difcovery, I was told, paid their addicflles, and made liberal oflcrs of prefents, which were rejedted with great difdain ; whether from a fenfe of virtue, or the fear of difpleafing their men, I fliall not pretend to deter- mine. That this gallantry was not very agreeable to the latter, is certain : for an elderly man, as foon as he obferved ir, ordered all the women and children to retire, which they obeyed, though fome of them fliewed a little reluc- tance. This conducV of Europeans amongfi: Savages, to their wo- men, is highly blamcable; as it creates a jcaloufy in their men, that may be attended with confequences fatal to the fucccfs of the common cnterprize, and to the whole body * Captain Cook's account of the natives of Van Diemen's Land, in this Cliaptcr, no doubt proves tliat they cHlTcr, in many rcfpeSls, as he fays, from the inhabitants of the more nortl.erly parts of the Eall coall of New Holland, whom he met with in his firft voyage. It feems very rcir.arkable, however, that the only woman any of his peo- ple came clofc to, in Botany Bay, fliould have her hair cropped fiort ; wliile the man who W',:' with her, is (aid to have had the hair of his head bujhy,, and his benrd long and rough, H;.w;:efv,'orih's Collection, Vol. iii. p. 502. Could the natives of Van Die- nien'b Land be mere nccuraicly defcribcJ, tlu;n by faying that the hair of the men's heads is Ii.'Jl'y^ ti>.il their IrarJs Ici.'g and r:ugh, and that the ivomm's hair is cropped J1)ort? So far North, therefore, as Botany Bay, tlie natives of ''■" Eaft coall of New Holland feenuo refemble tliofe of Van Diemen's Land, in this ,mfl:ance. .of of THE PACIFIC OCEAN. of adventurers, without advancin^'T the private purpofe of the individual, or cnahliiig liini to gain the objcift of his wishes. I beheve it has been generally found amongft un- civilized people, that where the women are cafy of accefs, the men are the firft to oiler ihein to flrangers; and that, where this is not the cafe, neither the allurement of pre- fents, nor the opportunity of privacy, will be likely to have the defired elFcdl:. This obfcrvation, I am fure, will hold good, throughout all the parts of the South Sea where I have been. Why then fhould men acSt i'o abfurd a part, as to rifk their own fafety, and that of all their companions, in pur- fuit of a gratification which they have no probability of obtaining ? In the afternoon I went again to the grafs-cutters, to for- ward their work. I found them then upon Penguin I Hand, where they had met with a plentiful crop of excellent grafs. We laboured hard till fim-fet, and then repaired on board, fatisfied with the quantity we had colledec, and which I judged fullicient to lail till our arrival in New Zealand. During our whole flay, we had either calms or light airs from the Eaftward. Little or no time, therefore, was loft by my putting in at this place. I'or if I had kept the fea, we Ihould not have been twenty leagues advanced farther on our voyage. And, Ihort as our continuance was here, it has enabled me to add fomewhat to the impcrfecT: ac- quaintance that hath hitherto been acquired, with this part of the globe. Van Diemen's Land has been twice vifited before. It was fo named by Tafman, who difcovered it in November 1G42. From that time it had efcaped all fartlier notice by Euro- pean navigators, till Captain Furneaux touched at it in March. ro3 *•' '777- January. 1^ J ' • '.IF ♦".( v t i' ^ 'H nm . ■; Bri ■f'l f 1 ■*- \ \ n 1 1 1 ' > :: 1 ' III"! ' i'-'- ■r! : I 3 104 ■777- January. A VOYAGE TO March 1773. I hardly need fay, that it is the Southern point of New Holland, which, if it doth not dcferve the name of a continent, is by far the largeft ifland in the world. The land is, for the mod part, of a good height, diverfified with hills and valleys, and every where of a greenifh hue. It is well wooded; and, if one may judge from appear- ances, and from what we met with in Adventure Bay, is not ill fupplied with water. We fouvid plenty of it in three or four places in this bay. The beft, or what is mod con- venient for fliips that touch here, is a rivulet, which is one of fcveral that fall into a pond, that lies behind the beach at the head of the bay. It there mixes with the fea-waterj fo that it mud be taken up above this pond, which may be done without any great trouble. Fire-wood is to be got, with great eafe, in feveral places. The only wind to which this bay is expofed, is the North Eaft. But as this wind blows from Maria's iflands, it can bring no very great fea along with it ; and therefore, upon the whole, this may be accounted a very fafe road. The bottom is clean, good holding ground ; and the depth of water from twelve, to five and four fathoms. 'Jut the an- nexed Chart will convey a better idea of every thing neceflary to be known about Adventure Bay, than any defcription. Capiain Furneaux's flcetch of Van Dieraen's Land, pub- liflied with the Narrative of my laft Voyage*, appears to mc to be without any material error, except with regard to Ma- ria's Irtands, which have a different fituation from what is there reprefented. What my idea of them is, will be feea * Vol. i. p. 115. m THE PACIFIC OCEAN. in the fkctch of that coafl: here infcrted ; and I infcrt ir, not as the refult of a more faithful, but merely of a fccond cxnmination. The longitude was determined by a great number of lunar obfervations, which we had before wc made the Imd, while we were in fight of it, and after wc had left it ; and reduced to Adventure Bay, and the fevcral principal points, by the time-keeper. The following Table will exhibit both the longitude and latitude at one view : Adventure Bay, Tafman's Head, South Cape, South Weft Cape, Swilly Ifle, >or Latitude South. Longitude Fall. 43° 81' 43 33 20"— ■ 147' 29' "l^y ^0 u 43 42 -146 56 43 37 0— — -146 7 43 55 -147 6 Adventure Variation of the compafs 5" 15' Eaft. p of the South End of the Needle 70° 15;'. We had high-water on the 29th, being two days before the laft quarter of the moon, at nine in the morning. The perpendicular rife then was eighteen inches ; and there was no appearance of its having ever exceeded two feet and a half. Thefe are all the memorials ufeful to navigarion, which my Ihirt flay has enabled me to preferve, with re- fpedt to Van Diemen's Land. Mr. Anderfon, my Surgeon, with I 's ufual diligence, fpent the few dayo we remained in Adventure Bay, in exa- mining the country. His account of its natural produc- tions, with which he favoured me, will more than com- pcnfate for my Hlcnce about them: fome of his remarks on the inhabitants will fupply what I may have omitted or re- prcfentcd impcrfcdly ; and his fpeciraen of their language, Vol. I. * P however 1777- January. v4 'I li M" m 'III m n f,;i 196 A VOYAGE TO • 777« J.uiuarv. however fliorr, will be thought worth attending to, by thole who wifh to collect niatcriah lor tracing the origin of na- tians. 1 fliall only prcniiCc, that the tall Ihaight forcd trees, which Mr. Antlcilbn defcribcs in the following ac- count, are of a diirerent fort from thole which are found in the more Northern parts of this coaft. The wood is very long and clofc-graincd ; extremely tough ; fit for (pars, oars, and many other ufes ; and would, on occafion, make good malic (perhaps none better), if a method could be found to lighten it. " At the bottom of Adventure Bay is a beautiful fandy beach, which feems to be wholly formed by '.ne particles waflied by the fea from a very fine wnite fand-flone, that in many places bounds the fliore, and of which Fluted Cape, in the neighbourhood, from its appeiuance, feems to be compofed. This beach is about two miles long, and is excellently adapted for hauling a feine, which both Ihips did repeatedly with fuccefs. Behind this, is a plain or flat, with a (alt, or rather brackifli lake (run- ning in length parallel with the beach), out of which we caught, with angling rods, many whiiifli bream, and fome fmall trout. The other parts of the country ad- joining the bay are quite hilly ; and both thofe and the flat are an entire foreft of very tall trees, rendered almoft impafl- ablc by (hrubs, brakes of fern, and fallen trees; except on the fides of fome of the hilJs, where the trees are but thin, and a coarfe grafs is the only interruption. To the Northward of the bay there is low land, ftretching farther than the eye can reach, which is only covered with wood in certain fpots ; but we had no opportunity to exa- mine in what refpecls it differed from the hilly country. The h i . THE PACIFIC OCEAN. The foil on the flat land is cither fandy, or confifts of a ycl- lowifh mould, and, in fonic places, of a rcddilh clay. The fame is found on the lower part of the hills; but farther up, cfpecially where there are few trees, it is of a grey tough caft, to appearance very poor. In the valleys between the hills, the water drains down from their fides ; and at laft, in fomc places, forms fmall brooks; fuch indeed as were fuiTicicnt to fupply us with water, but by no means of that fize we might expetfl in fo cxtenfivc a country, efpecially as it is both hilly and well wooded. Upon the whole, it has many marks of being naturally a very dry country ; and perhaps might (inde- pendent of its wood) be compared to Africa, about the Cape of Good Hope, though that lies ten degrees farther North- ward, rather than to New Zealand, on its other fide, in the fame latitude, where we find every valley, however fmall, f urnifhed with a confiderable ftream of water. The heat too appears to be great, as the thermometer flood at 64, 70, and once at 74. And it was remarked, that birds were feldom killed an hour or two, before they were almoft covered with fmall maggots, which I would rather attribute merely to the heat ; as we had not any reafon to fuppofe there is a pe- culiar difpofuion in the climate to render fubftances foon putrid. No mineral bodies, nor indeed flones of any other fort, but the white fand one already mentioned, were obferved. Amongfl the vegetable productions, there is not one, that we could find, which afforded the fmalleft fubfiilence for man. The foreft trees are all of one fort, growing to a great height, and in general quite ftraight, branching but litt'p, P 2 till 107 «777« January. t > r,. I i •■ I . i \m iq8 '51 ■ ]t: ap-'i. 1777' J.inua:;/. A V O Y A G E TO* tin towards the top. The bark is white, which mal:e3 thera- appear, at a diflance, as if they had been peeled; :t is alfo thick J and within it are fometimes collecTted, pieces of a red- difli tranfparent gum or refin, which has an aftringent tafte. The leaves of this tree are long, narrow, and pointed ; and it bears clullers of fmi)ll white flowers, whofc cups were, at this time, plentifully fcattered about the ground, with another fort refembling thein fomewhat in fliape, but much larger; which makes it probable that there are two /pedes of this tree. The bark of the fmaller branches, fruit, and leaves, have an agreeable pungent tafte, and aromatic fmell, not unlike peppermint; and in its nature, it has fome affinity to the myrtus of botanifts. The moft common tree, next to this, is a fmall one about ten feet high, branching pretty much, with narrow leaves, and a large, yellow, cylindrical flower, confifting only of a vaft number of filaments; which, being flied, leave a fruit like a pine top. Both the above-mentioned trees are un- known in Europe. The underwood confifts chiefly of a flirub fomewhat re- fembling a myrtle, and which iecms to be the leptofpermum fcoparium, mentioned in Dr. Forfter's Char. Gen. Plant.; and, in fome places, of another, rather fmaller, which is a ncMv/pci- cies oi \.\\Q. melaleuca oi hinnxns^ - Of other plants, which are by no means numerous, there is 3, /pedes of gladiolus^ rufh, bell-flower, famphire, a fmall fort of wood-forrel, milk-wort, cudweed, and Job's tears ; with a few others, peculiar to the place, There are feveral kinds of fern, as polypody, fpleenwort, female fern, and fome moflcs ; but the /pedes are either common, or at leafl; found in fome other countries, efpecially New Zealand. . \ ■• .-■---■ .. ^ -- ■ The V'-:- '[>V THE PACIIMC OCEAN. The only animal of the quadruped kind we got, was a fort oi opojfum, about twice the iize of a hirge rat; and is, naofl: probably, the male of that /pedes found at Endea- vour River, as mentioned in Hawkcfworth's CoUedlion of Voyages *. It is of a dufky colour above, tinged with a brown or rufty caft, and whitifli below. About a third of the tail, towards its tip, is white, and bare underneath ; by which it probably hangs on the branches of trees, as it climbs thefe, and lives on berries. Mr. Webber's drawing will give a better idea of it than any defcription. The kan- goorooy another animal found farther Northward in New Holland, as defcribed in the fame Voyage f, without all doubt alfo inhabits here, as the natives we met with had fome pieces of their Ikins ; and we feveral times faw ani- mals, though indiftin(5lly, run from the thickets when we walked in the woods, which, from the fize, could be no other. It (hould feem alfo, that they are in confiderablc numbers, from the dung we faw almoft every where, and from the narrow tracks or paths they have made amongft the fhrubbery. There are feveral forts of birds, but all fo fcarce and fhy, that they arc evidently harafled by tne nativfeii, who, per- haps, draw much of their fubfiftence from them. In the woods, the principal forts are large brown hawks or eagles ; crows, nearly the fame as ours in England ; yellowifh pa- roquets; and large pigeons. There arc alfo three or four fmall birds, one of which is of the thrufli kind ; and ano- ther fmall one, witli a pretty long tail, has part of the head and neck of a moil beautiful azure colour ; from whence we named it viotacilla cyanea. On the lliore were feveral com- 109 January, ■■i ■V 1 1-:^-; ■» Vol. iii. p. 586* '>' t Ibid. p. 577, mon ■n M i-fi^i * ; .;i no January. AVOYAGETO mon and fea gulls ; a few black oyfter catchers, or fea-picsj and a pretty plover of a ftone colour, with a black hood. About the pond or lake behind the beach, a few wild ducks were feen ; and fome fliags ufed to perch upon the high leaflefs trees near the fhore. Some pretty large blackifli fnakes were feen in the woods j and we killed a large, hitherto unknown, lizard, fifteen inches long and fix round, elegantly clouded with black and yellow ; befides a fmall fort, of a brown gilded colour above, and rufty below. ' The fea affords a much greater plenty, and at leaft as great a variety as the land. Of thefe the elephant fifli, or fejegallo, mentioned in Frezier's Voyage *, are the mod nu- merous > and though inferior to many other fifh, were very palatable food. Several large rays, nurfes, and fmall lea- ther-jackets were caught; with fome fmall white bream, which were firmer and better than thofe caught in the lake. We likewife got a few foles and flounders; two forts cf gurnards, one of them a new /pedes -, fome fmall fpotted -mullet J and, very unexpeftedly, the fmall fifli with a filver band on its fide, called atherina hepfetus by Haflclquift -f-. But that next in number, and fuperior in goodnefs, to the • elephant fifli, was a fort none of us recoUedled to have feen before. It partakes of the nature both of a round and of a flat fifh, having the eyes placed very near each other ; the fore-part of the body much flattened or deprefTed, and the refl rounded. It is of a brownifh fandy colour, with rufly fpots on the upper part, and whitifli below. From the « Tom. ii. p. 211. lamo. Planche XVII. •\ Iter Palaji'mum. quantity THE PACIFIC OCEAN* quantity of flime it was always covered with, it feems to live after the manner of flat fifli, at the bottom^ Upon the rocks are plenty of mufcles, and fome other fmall Ihell-fifli. There are alfo great numbers of fea-ftars; fome fmall limpets; and large quantities of fponge; one fort of which, that is thrown on Ihore by the fea, but not very common, has a moil delicate texture; and another, is the fpongia dichotoma. . Many pretty Medufas heads were found upon the beach ; ; and the (linking laplyfia or fea-hare, which, as mentioned ; by fome authors, has the property of taking off the hair by the acrimony of its juice ; but this fort was deficient in thiS:. refpedl. Infeifts, though not numerous, are here in confiderable variety, Amongft them are grafshoppers, butterflies, and feveral forts of fmall moths, finely variegated. There arc two forts of dragon-flies, gad-flies, camel-flies ; feveral forts of fpiders ; and fome fcorpions i but the laft are rather rare. The moil troublcfome, though not very numerous tribe of infefts, arc the mufquitoes ; and a large black ant, the pain of whofe bite is almoft intolerable, during the fliorc time it lafts. The mufquitoes, alfb, make up the defici- ency of their number, by the fc verity of their venomous prohofcis. ■ . _ The inhabitants whom we met with here, had little of that fierce or wild appearance common to people in their fituation ; but, on the contrary, feemed mild and cheerful, without referve or jealoufy of ftrangcrs. This, however, may arife from their having little to lofc or care for. With III '777- January.' m 4fl n i ii'«S r'vuj .■!"! 1 sfl Ill A VOYAGE TO Januai; W 1 U ■:■ nil ';■ With refpc777- January. ■I S'l m \ ft J mm I I; ;» 114 ^111- January. " H A VOYAGE TO porary purpofes ; and many of their largcfl trees were con- verted into more comfortable habitations. Thefc had their trunks hollowed out by fire, to the height of fix or fevcn feet; and that they take up their abode in them fometimcs, was evident from the hearths, made of clay, to contain the fire in the middle, leaving room for four or five pcrfons to fit round it*. At the fame time, thefe places of flieher arc durable; for they take care to leave one fide of tiie tree found, which is fufficient to keep it growing as luxuriantly as thofe which remain untouched. ' ' The inhabitants of this place are, doubtlefs, from the fame ftock with thofe of the Northern parts of New Hol- land. Though feme of the circumdances mentioned by Dampicr, relative to thofe he met with on the Wcftern coall of this comitry, fuch as their defective fight, and want of fore-teeth, are not found here; and though Hawkcfworth's account of thofe met with by Captain Cook on the Eafl: fide, Ihews alfo that they differ in many refpeds; yet ftill, upon the whole, I am perfuaded that dillance of place, entire fs- paration, divcrfity of climate, and length of tin. :, all concur- ring to operate, will account for greater difierences, both as to their perfons and as to their cufioms, than really cxid between our Van Diemen's Land natives, and thofe defcribcd by Dampier, and in Captain Cook's firfl; voyage. This is cer- tain, that the figure of one of thofe fccn in Endeavour River, and reprefented in Sidney Parkinfon's Journal of that voya,c:e, very much refembles our vifiters in Adventure Bay. Tliat: there is not the like referablance in their language, is a cir- cuniftancc that need not create any difficulty. For though * Tafman, vvlicn in the bay of Frederick Henry, adjoining to Adventure Bay, found two trees, one of wliicli was two fatiiomf, and the other tv/o huhoms and a half in girtli, and fixty or fixty-live feet high, from the root to the branclits. See his Voyage.^ in Harris's CoUcciioii, Cjmpl/cH's Edition, Vol. i. p. 326. . the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 115 the agreement of the languages of people living cUflant from '777- each other, may be alFumed as a flrong argument for their * — * — - having fprung from one common fource ; difagreemcnt of language is by no means a proof of the contrary *. However, we mufl: have a far more intimate acquaintance with the languages fpokcn here and in the more Northern parts of New Holland, before we can be warranted to pro- nounce that they are totally different. Nay, wc have good grounds for the oppofite opinion ; for we found that the animal called kangooroo at Endeavour river, was known un- der the fame name here ; and I need not obferve, that it is fcarcely poflible to fuppofe tJiat this was not tranfmitted from one another, but accidentally adopted by two nations, differing in language and extracTtion. Befides, as it feems very improbable that the Van Diemen's Land inhabitants fliould have ever loft the ufe of canoes or failing veflels, if they had been originally conveyed thither by fea, we muft neceffarily admit that they, as well as the kangooroo itfelf, have been ftraggk.^ by land from the more Northern parts * The ingenious Author of Recherche fur les Americains, illuftrates the grounds of this aflertion in the following fatisfadlory manner : " C'eft quelque choff de furpre- nant, que la foule des idiomes, tous varies entr'eux, que pnrlent les naturels de I'Anierique Septentrionale, Qii'on reduife ces idiomes ;\ des racines, qii'on las fim- «' plific, qu'on en fcpare les dialcctcs & les jargons derives, il en refultc toujours cinq *' ou fix langucs-mcres, refpeclivemcnt incomprehenfibles. On a obferve la mcme " fiiigularite dans la Sibcrie & la Tartaric, ou le nonibrc tics iiliomes, & des di;dc6tes, *' eft egalement multiplic ; & ricn n'eft plus commun, que d'y voir deux liordjs voi- " fines qui nc fc comprcnncnt point. On retrouvc cctte mesne multiplicite de j;ir- " gons dans toutes les Provinces de TAmerique Meridionale." [He might alfo have included Africa.] " 11 y a beaucoup d'apparence que la vie fanvage, en difperjhnt les *' hc:?imes par petites troupes ifclccs clans des bois epais, occafione n.ceJJ'airement cctte gramle " divevftte des langites, dont Ic nombre diminue a mefure que la fociete, en raflitnblant " les barbarcs vagabonds, en forme un corps de nation. Aiors I'idiomc le plus " riche, ou le mcins pauvre en mots, dcvient dominant, & abforbe les autres." Tom. i. p. 159, 160. m •i. n» m -■J*i ^ l.l^'J m. I* "!:^!l '.i-.| Q.^ of 1 15 A VOYAGE TO 1777. January. i^r- of ihe country. And if there be any force in this obferva- tion, whilj it traces the origin of the people, it will, at the fame time, fervc to fix another point, if Captain Cook and Captain Fourneaux have not already decided it, that New Holland is no where totally divided by the fea into iflands, as fome have imagined *. As the New Hollanders feem all to be of the fame extrac- tion, fo neither do I think there is any thing peculiar in them. On the contrary, they much refemble many of the inhabitants whom I have feen at the iflands Tanna and Manicola. Nay, there is even fome foundation for liazard- ing a fuppofition, that they may have originally come from the fame place with all the inhabitants of the South Sea. For, of only about ten words which we could get from, them, that which exprelTes cold, differs little from that of New Zealand and Otaheite ; the firfl being Malkireede, the fecond Makkdreede^ and the third Md'reede. The refl of our very fcanty Van Diemen's Land Vocabulary is as fol- lows: Quadne, A -woman. Eve'rai, The eye. Muidje, The nofe. Ka'my, 27?^ teeth, mouth, or tongue. Lae'renne, Afmall hird^ a native of the "woods here, Koy'gee, The ear. No'onga, Elevated fears on the body. Teegera, To eat. Toga'rago, / mnjl be gone, or, / nvill go. Their pronunciation is not difagreeable, but rather quick; though not more fo than is that of other nations of the * Dampier feems to be of this opinion. Vol. iii. p. 104. 125. ^ South m f 11 I — K V ' ' I' UNA'' I SMMUI'LIfl SVA xvfi :n/.ij.\:iA(i\\/" nvs iiii'»s -w./' ACir^i 'l-l- Hi THE PACIFIC OCEAN. South Sea; and, if wc may depend upon the afllnity of lan- guages as a clue to guide us in difcovering i c origin of ». nations, I have no doubt but we Ihall find, on a diligent inquiry, and when opportunities ofTer to collcdl: accurately a fullicicnt number of thefe words, and to compare them, that all the people from New Holland, Eaftward to Eafter Iflard, have been derived from the fame common root *." * Wc find Mr. Anderfon's notions on this fubje£l conformable to thofe of Mr. Mnrfden, who has remarked, " that one general language prevailed (however muti- " latcd anil changed in the courfe of time) throughout all this portion of the world, " from Madagafcar io the moft diftant difcoveries Eaftward ; of which the Malay is a •« dialc(.% much corrupted or refined by a mixture of other tongues. This very cx- " tcnfivc fimila,-ity of language indicates a common origin of the inhabitants ; but " the circuinftances and progrefs of their feparation are wrapped in the darkeft veil of •' obfcurity." Hi/lory of Sumatra, p. 35. Sec alfo his very curious paper, read before the Society of Antiquaries, and pub- liflied in their Archaolog'ia, Vol. vi. p. 155; where his fcntiments on this fubje^ are explained more at large, and illuftrated by two Tables of correfponding Words. »'7 "777' January. I ■ii j *ii j l! !* »i> 9 *»''.. i ^i i. '■ii»<** ^' ■ ' H » i J 1 i ', ll i, i ■•■> ■ :•> 'i' "■'• 'i^tiJiJ tii ~''iir .l.X.}.^ •i*^■V-»t- f ■■ -i^'O-v.'V. >'l- -.,• - '.u ./••li CHAP. Mi rm If I M ii8 A VOYAGE TO C H A P. VI I. The Paffage from Van Dlemcns Land to New Zealand.— ~ Employments in Sluecn Charlotte s Sound. — Tra^i/aSlions 'With the Natives there. — Intelligence about the Maffacrs of the yldventures Boats Creiv. — Account of the Chief who beaded the Party on that Occcjt'jn. — Of the tivo young Men who embark to attznd Onuii. — Various Re- '. marks on the Inhabitants. — /Iflrcnomical and Nautical Obfervations. \ - ' • ' ; M 1777. \ T eight o'clock in the morning of the 30th of January, ^ January.^ XA. a Hght brcczc fpringing up at Weft, we weighed an- Thuridayjo. choF, and put to I'ca from Adventure Bay. Soon afrcr, the wind veered to the Southward, and incrcafed to a pcrfecT; ftorm. Its fury abated in the evening, when it veered to the Eafl: and North Eaft. This gale was indicated by the barometer, for tlie wind no fooner began to blow, than the mercury in the tube be- gan to fall. Another remarkable thing attended the comiiv.; on of this wind, which was very faint at lirft. It brought with it a degree of heat that was almoft intolerable. Tlic mercury in the thermometer rofc, as it were inflantane- oufly, from about 70° to near 90°. This heat was of fo fliort a continuance, that it feemed to be wafted away be- fore the breeze that brought itj fo that fome on board did not perceive it. We m T U \l PACIFIC O C E A N. 119 >777- February. \Vc puiTiicd our conric 10 the E'allvvard, without meeting with any thinp; wortliy of note, till the night hctwcen the 61I1 and 7th ot I'chruary, when a marine belonging to the FrUay;. Difcovery fell over-board, and was never fcei\ afterward. Tliis was the fccond misfortune of tlie kind that had hap- pened 10 Captain Clerkc (ince he left England. On the loth, at four in the afternoon, wc difcovcrcd the Monday i Thurfday 13. the two obfcrvatories, and tents for the reception of a guard, and of fuch of our people whofe bulinefs might make it ne- celTary for them to remain on Ihore. We had not been long at anchor before fcveral canoes, fdled with native^,, came along-fide of the fliioG; bur very- few of them would venture on board ; which appeared the more extraordinary, as I was well known to them all. There was one man in particular amo gft them, whom I had treated with remarkable kindnefs, during the whole of my flay when I was lad here. Yet now, neither protcirions of frieudfliip, nor prefents, could prevail upon him to come into the fliip. This ihynefs was to be accounted for only upon this fuppofition, that they were apprehenfive we had levifited their country, in order re revenge the death of Cap- tain Furneaux's people. Seeing Omai on board my ihip now, whom they muft have remembered to have feen on board the Adventure when the melancholy affair happened, and whofe firfl converfation with them, as they approached, generally turned on that fubject, they muft be well afTurcd that I was no longer a ftranger to it. I thought it nccefTury, therefore, to ufe ever^-- endeavour to afTure them of the con- tinuance of my friendlhij^, and that I fliould not difturb them on that account. I do not know whether tills had any weight with them; but certain it is, that they very foon laid afide all manner of reftraint and diftrufl. On the 13th we fet up two tents, one from each fhip; on the fame fpot where we had pitched them formerly. The obfervatorics were at the fame time ercftcd; and MclRs. King and liayly began their operations imniediately, to find the rate of the time-keeper, and to make other obfcrv.uions. The remainder of the empty water-caflis were alfo fcnt on fiiore, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. fhore, with the cooper to trim, and a fufEcient number of failors to fill them. Two men were appointed to brew fpruccbeer; and' the carpenter and his crew were ordered lo cut wood. A boat, with a party of men, under the di- recT:ion of one of the mates, was fcnt to colle<5l grafs for our cattle; and the people that remained on board were em- ployed in refitting tb*^ fliip, and arranging the provifions. In this manner, we were all profitably bulied during our flay. For the protection of the party on fliore, I appointed a guard of ten marines, and ordered arms for all the work- men ; and Mr. King, and two or three petty officers, con- ftandy remained with them. A boat was never fent to any confiderable diftance from the fhips without being armed, and under the diredion of fuch officers as I could depend upon, and who were well acquainted with the natives. During my former vifits to this country, I had never taken fome of thefe precautions ; nor were they, I firmly believe, more necefTary now than they had been formerly. But after the tragical fate of the Adventure's boat's crew in this found, and of Captain Marion du Frefne, and of fome of his people, in the Bay of Iflands*, it was impoflible totally to diveil ourfelves of all apprehenfion of experiencing a fimilar calamity. If the natives entertained any fufpicion of our revenging thefe a6ts of barbarity, they very foon laid it afidc. For, during the courfe of this day, a great number of families came from dill'erent parts of the coafl, and took up their re- fidence clofe to us ; fo that there was not a fpot in the cove where a hut could be put up, that was not occupied by them, except the place where we had fixed our little en- 121 Fcbruni ' ', As" ; m i'MSm « 'fli ,'> r. ,; '^n|^^| ? p.' ; (. ■ ^mV^H ';>^Hl i . ' ^^Iffli Vol. I. * In 1772. R campmcnt. MB IK I •■)»! It .■»: 'S i»i' 1"^' '"sH 122 1776. February. AVOYAGETO campment. This they left us in quiet pofTelllon of; but they came and took away tne ruins of fome old huts that were there, as materials for their new ere(flions. It is curious to obferve with what facility they build thefc occafional places of abode. I have feen above twenty of them erc6led on a fpot of ground, that, not an hour before, was covered with flirubs and plants. They generally bring fome part of the materials with them j the reft they find upon the premifes. I was prefent when a number of people landed, and built one of thefe villages. The moment the c^.noes reached the fhore, the men leaped out, and at once took pofleflion of a piece of ground, by tearing up the plants and flirubs, or flicking up fome part of the framing of a hut. They then returned to their canoes, and fecured their weapons, by felting them up againft a tree, or placing them in fuch a pofition, that they could be laid hold of in an in- ftant. I took particular notice that no one negled:ed this precaution. While the men were employed in raifmg the huts, the women v/ere not idle. Some were ftationcd to take care of the canoes; others to fecure the provifions, and the few utenfils in their pofleflion ; and the refl: went to ga- ther ary fticks, that a fire might be prepared for drcfling their victuals. As to the children, I kept them, as alio fome of the more aged, iufliciently occupied in fcrambling for beads, till I had emptied my pockets, and then I left them. Thefe temporary habitations are abundantly fuflicient to afford flicker from the wind and rain, which is the only purpole they are meant to anfwcr. I obfcrvcd that, gene- rally, if not always, the faiTie tribe or family, though it were ever fo large, alT'ociated and built together; fo that we fre- 7 quently 1 \.' THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 12: qucntly faw a village, as well as their larger towns, divlddd pcbruar into (lifTcrent diflrids, by low pallifades, or fome fimilar mode of reparation. The advantage we received from the natives coming to live with us, was not inconfidcrable. For, every day, when the weather would permit, fome of them went Qut to catch fidi; and we generally got, by exchanges, a good fhare of the produce of their labours. This fupply, and what our own nets and lines afforded us, was fo ample, that we fel- dom were in want of fifli. Nor was there any deficiency of other refrefliments. Celery, fcurvy-grafs, and portable foup were boiled with the peafe and wheat, for both fliips com- panies, every day during our whole flay; and they had fprucc-beer for their drink. So that, if any of our people had contradled the feeds of the fcurvy, fuch a regimen foon removed them. But the truth is, when we arrived here, there were only two invalids (and thefe on board the Refo- lution) upon the fick lifls in both ftiips. Befides the natives who took up their abode clofe to us, we were occafionally vifited by others of them, whofe rcli- dence was not far ofFj and by fome who lived more remote. Their articles of commerce were, curiofities, fifh, and wo- men. The two firfl always came to a good market ; which the latter did not. The feamen had taken a kind of diflikc to thefe people; and were either unwilling, or afraid, to afTociate with thrm ; which produced this good elTed:, that I knew no inflance of a man's quitting his flation, to go to their habitations. A connedlion with women I allow, becaufe I cannot pre- vent it ; but never encourage, becaufe I always dread its confcquences. I know, indeed, that many men are of opi- 11 2 nion, ■J i. Ui.:' ', *■-■■ ■!ili '■; ■ '^U' 124 '777' February. A V O Y A G E T a nion, that fuch an intercourfe is one of our greateft fecurities amongft favages ; and perhaps they who, either from ne- ccflity or choice, are to remain and fettle with them, may find it fo. But with travellers and tranfient vifiters, ,fuch as wc were, it is generally otherwife and, in our fituation, a conne(ftion with their women bev.iys more m«n than it faves. What elfe can be reafonably expe(5led, fince all their views are fclfilh, without the lead mixture of regard or at- tachment ? My own experience, at leaft, which hath been pretty extenfive, hath not pointed out to me one inftance to the contrary. Amongft our occafional vifiters, was a chief named Ka- hoora, who, as I was informed, headed the party that cut off Captain Furneaux's people, and himfelf killed Mr. Rowe, the officer who commanded. To judge of the charadler of Kahoora, by what I heard from many of his countrymen, he feemed to be more feared than beloved amongft them. Not fatisfied with telling me that he was a very bad man, fome of them even importuned me to kill him : and, I be- lieve, they were not a little furprifed that I did not liften to them ; for, according to their ideas of equity, this ought to have been done. Bur if I had followed the advice of all our pretended friends, I might have extirpated the whole race ; for the people of each hamlet or village, by turns, applied to me to dertroy the other. One would have almoft thought it impoffiblc, that fo ftriking a proof of the divided ftate in which this miferable people live, could have been afllgned. And yet I was fure that I did not mifconceive the meaning of thofe who made thefe ftrange applications to me ; for Omai, whofc language was a dialed of their own, and per- feilly underftood all that they faid, was our interpreter. 3 ' On 3 :' i„ 'J m THE PACIFIC OCEAN. On the 15th, I made an excurfion in my boat to look for grafs, and vificed the Hippah, or fortified village at the South Weft point of Motuara, and the places where our gardens had been planted on that ifland. There were no people at the former; but the houfes and pallifades had been rebuilt, and were now in a ftaie of good repair; and there were other evident marks of its having been inha- bited not long before. It would be unneceiTary, at prefenr, to give a particular account of this Hippah, fufficient notice having been taken of it in the Account of my firft Voyage, to which I refer * ; and to the annexed drawing, which re- prclients part of the infide of the village, and will convey a better idea of it, than any written defcription. When the Adventure arrived firft at Queen Charlotte's Sound, in 1773 1» Mr. Bayly fixed upon this place for mak- ing his obfervations ; ami he, and the people with him, at their leifure hours, planted feveral fpots with Englifli gar- den feeds. Not the leaft veftige of thefe now remained. It is probable that they had been all rooted out to make room for buildings, when the village was reinhabited : for, at all the other gardens then planted by Captain Furneaux, although now wholly over-run with the weeds of the country, we found cabbages, onions, leeks, purilain, radiflics, muftard, 8cc. and a few potatoes. Thefe potatoes, which were firft brought from the Cape of Good Hope, had been greatly improved by change of foil ; and, with proper cultivation, would be fuperior to thofe produced in moft other countries. Though the New Zealanders are fond of this root, it was evident that tliey had not taken the trouble to plane a fingle one (much lefs any other of the articles which we had in- 125 '7/7- February. Saturday ii^. I- !?•■ 'h1 ■ii w * Hawkefworth's Colledion, Vol. ii, p. 395, 5cc. ■^ Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. I20» troduccd) > m> iin.'i •\'-\ '777- February. Sunday 16. A VOYAGE TO troduced) ; and if it were not for the difliculty of clearing ground where potatoes had been once planted, there would nor have been any now remaining. On the 1 6th, at day-break, I fet out with a party of men, in five boats, to coUcft food for our .cattle. Captain Clerkci and fevcral of the officers, Omai, and two of the natives, accompanied mc. V/e proceeded about three leagues up the found, and then landed on the Eafl; fide, at a place where I had formerly been. Here we cut as much gra(s as loaded the two launches. As we returned do vn the found, we vifitcd Grafs Cove, the memorable fcene of the MafTacre of Captain Furneaux's people. Here I met -^vith my old friend Pedro, who was almoft continually with me the laft time I was in this found, and is mentioned in my Hiftory of that Voyage *. He, and another of his countrymen, received us on the beach, armed with the pa- too and fpear. Whether this form of reception was a mark of their courtefy or of their fear, I cannot fay ; but 1 thought they betrayed manifeft figns of the latter. However, if they had any apprehenfions, a few prefents foon removed them, and brought down to the beach two or three more of the family ; but the greatcd part of them remained out of fight. .•• Whilft we were at this place, our curiofity prompted us to inquire into the circumflanccs attending the melancholy fate of our countrymen } and Omai was made ufe of as our interpreter for this purpofc. Pedro, and the reft of the na- tives prefent, anfwered all the queflions that were put to ihem on the fubjeol, without referve, and like men who IM "* Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 158, 159. are "II ki ii 11 m THE PACIFIC OCEAN. are under no dread of punifliment for a crime of which they are not guilty. For we ah'cady knew that none of them had been concerned in the unhappy tranfa(5tion. They told us, that while our people were fitting at dinner, fur- rounded by feveral of the natives, fome of the latter ftole, or fnatched from them, fome bread and fifli, for which they were beat. This being refented, a quarrel enfucd, and two New Zealanders were fliot dead, by the only two mufquets that were fired. For before our people had time to dif- charge a third, or to load again thofe that had been fired, the natives ruflied in upon them, overpowered them with their numbers, and put them all to death. Pedro and his companions, befidcs relating the hiftory of the maffacre, made us acquainted with the very fpot that was the fcene of it. It is at the corner of the cove on the right-hand. They pointed to the place of the fun, to mark to us at what hour of the day it happened ; and, according to this, it muft have been late in the afternoon. They alfo fliewed us the place where the boat lay ; and it appeared to be about two hun- dred yards diftant from that where the. crew were feated. One of their number, a black fervant of Captain Furneaux:, was left in the boat to take care of her. We were afterward told that this black was the caufc of the quarrel, which was faid to have happened thus: One of the natives ftcaling fomething out of the boat, the Neg'-o gave him a fevere blow with a flick. The cries of the fel- low being heard by his countrymen at a diilance, they imagined he was killed, and immediately began the attack on our people ; who, before they had time to reach the boat, or to arm themfelves againd the unexpected impend- ing danger, fell a facrifice to the fury of their favage aflail- ants. The 12* 1777- Febraary. W-rl I.. 4 ■i:Vi ■>: .'Mr 1 'V:i i :]Wi 128 A VOYAGE TO '777- February. The firft of thefe accounts, was confirmed bv the teflimony of many of the natives, whom we converfed with, at differ- ent times, and who, I think, could have no intereft in de- ceiving us. The fecond manner of relating the tranfadlion, refts upon the authority of the young New Zealander, who chofe to abandon his country and go away w^ith us, and who, confequently, could have no poflible view in difguif- ing the truth. All agreeing that the quarrel happened when the boat's crew were fitting at their meal, it is highly pro- bable that both the accounts are true, as they perfe(5lly co- incide. For we may very naturally fuppofe, that while fomc of the natives were Healing from the man who had been left in the boat, others of them might take the fame liberties with the property of our people who were on fhorc. Be this as it will, all agree, that the quarrel firft took its rife from fome thefts, in the commiilion of which the na- tives were detecfted. All agree, alfo, that there was no pre- meditated plan of bloodflied, and that, if thefe thefts had not been, unfortunately, too haftily refentcd, no mifchief would have happened. For Kahoora's grcateft enemies, thofc who folicited his deftrudlion moll earneflly, at the fame time confefTed that he had no intention to quarrel, much lefs to kill, till the fray had adtually commenced. It alfo appears that the unhappy victims were under no fort of apprehenfion of their fate -, othcrwife they never would have ventured to fit down to a repaft at fo confidcrable a diftance from their boat, amongfl; people who were the next moment to be their murderers. What became of the boat I never could learn. Some faid flie was pulled to pieces and burnt; others told us that flic was carried, they knew not whither, by a party of flrangcrs. Wc fi.U* THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Wc (layed here till the evening, when, having loaded the "9 February. rell of the boats with grafs, celery, I'curvy-grafs, &c. wc ' — «— — ', cmbrrked to return to the fliips. Wc had prevailed upon Pedro to launch his canoe, and accompany us; but we had f carccly put ofl' from the Ihore, when the wind began to blow very hard at North Wed, which obliged him to put back. We proceeded ourfclves, but it was with a good deal of dif- ficuliy that we could reach the fliips ; where feme of the boats did not arrive till one o'clock the next morning; and Monday 17J it was fortunate that they got on board then, for it after- ward blew a perfed: (lorm, with abundance of rain, fo that no mar>ner of work could go forward that day. In the evening the gale ceafed, and the wind having veered to the . Eaft, brought with it fair weather. ' '*' The next day we refumed our works; the natives ven- TuefJay is. tured out to catch fifli; and Pedro, with all his family, came and took up his abode near us. This Chief's proper name is Matahouah; the other being given him by fome of my people during my lafl; Voyage, which I did not know tiil now. He was, however, equally well known amongfl: his countrymen I y both names. On the 20th, in the forenoon, we had another ftorm from Thurfdayzaj the North Weft. Though this was not of fo long continu- ance as the former, the gufts of wind from the hills were far more violent, infomuch that we were obliged to flrike the yards and top-mafts to the very utmoft ; and, even witli all this precaution, it was with difficulty that we rode it out. Thefe dorms are very frequent here, and fometimes violent and troublefome. The neighbouring mountains, which at thefe times are always loaded with vapours, not only increafe the force of the wind, but alter its diret5tion in Vol, I. S fuch fl'i si M I - • I % m I ^ : M>;y ^f. r£% :-4^ 130 A VOAGE TO 1777' Fcbruar)', ■ • ', Sunday 23. Monday 24. fuch a luaiiner, that no two blafts follo-v each other from the fame quarter ; and the nearer the Ihore, the more their effecT:s arc felt. The next day we were vifited by a tribe or family, con- fifting of about thirty perfons, men, women, and children, who came from the upper part of the Sound. I had never feen them before. The name of their Chief was Toma- tongeauooranuc; a man of about forty-five years of age, with a cheerful open countenance. And, indeed, the reft of his tribe were, in general, the handfomeft of the New Zealand race I had ever met with. By this time more than two-thirds of the inhabitants of the Sound had fettled themfelves about us. Great numbers of them daily frequented the fhips, and the encampment on Ihore : but the latter became, by far, the moft favourite place of refort, while our people there were melting fome feal blubber. No Grcenlander was ever fonder of train-oil, than our friends Iiere feemed to be. They relilhed the very fkimmings of the kettle, and dregs of the calks; but a little of the pure (linking oil was a delicious feaft, fo eagerly de- fired, that J fuppofe it is feldom enjoyed. • - Having got on board as much hay and grafs as we judged fuflicicnt to ferve the cattle till our arrival at Otaheite, and having completed the wood and water of both fliips, on the 23d we {truck our tents, and carried every thing off from the fliorc; and next morning we weighed anchor, and flood out of the Cove. But the wind not being very fair, and finding that the tide of ebb would be fpent before we could get out of the Sound, we caft anchor again a little without the ifland Motuara, to wait for a more favour- able opportunity of putting into the flrait. While THE PACIFIC OCEAN. While we were unmooring and getting under fail, To- matongcauooranuc, Matahouah, and many more of the natives, came to take their leave of us, or rather to ohtain, if they could, fome additional prefents from us before wc left them. Thefe two Chiefs became fuitors to me for fomc goats and hogs. Accordingly, I gave to Matahouah two goats, a male and female with kid ; and to Tomaton- gcauooranuc two pigs, a boar and a fow. They made mc a promifc not to kill them; though I mud own I put no great faith in this. The animals which Captain Furneaux fent on (hore here, and which foon after fell into the hands of tlic natives, 1 was now told were all dead ; but I could get no intelligence about the fate of thofe I had left in Weft Bay, and in Cannibal Cove, when I was here in the courfe of my laft Voyage. However, all the natives, whom I converfed with agreed, that poultry are now to be met with wild in the woods behind Ship Gove ; and I was afterward informed, by the two youths who went away with us, that Tiratou, a popular Chief amongft them, had a great many cocks and hens in his feparate poffcfllon, and one of the fows. On my prefent arrival at this place, I fully intended to have left not only goats and hogs, but Iheep, and a young bull, with two heifers, if I could have found either a Chief power- ful enough to protcd and keep them, or a place where there might be a probability of their being concealed from thofe wiio would ignorantly attempt to dcftroy them. But neither the one nor tlie other prefented itfelf to me. Tira- tou was novi^ abfent ; and Tringoboohee, whom I had met with during my lall Voyage *, and who fecmed to be a per- fon of much conlequence at that time, had been killed five 131 * See Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 157. S 2 February. I months 'f'.^ I 'f ■J. 132 f H A VOYAGE TO •777- Frbruary. months ago, with about feventy pcrfons of his tribe ; and I could not learn that there now remained in our neighbour- hood any tribe, whole numbers could fecurc to them a lu- periority of power over the reft of their countrymen. To have given the animals to any of the natives who pofTefTed no fuch power, would not hav'o anfwcred the intention. For in a country like this, where no man's property is fe- cure, they would foon have fallen a prey to difl'ercnt parties, and been either Icparatcd or killed ; but moft likely both. This was fo evident, from what we had obfervcd fincc our arrival, that I had refolved to leave no kind of animal, till Matahouah and the other Chief folicitcd me for the hogs and goats. As I could fpare diem, I let them go, to take their chance. I have, at different times, left in New Zea- land, not lefs than ten or a dozen hogs, befides thofe put on fliore by Captain Furneaux. It will be a little extraor" dinary, therefore, if this race fhould not incrcafe and be preferved here, either in a wild or in a domeflic ftatc, or in both. We had not been long at anchor near IVIotuaia, before three or four canoes, filled with natives, came off to us from the South Eaft fide of the Sound; and a briflc trade was carried on with them for the curiofities of this place, hi one of thefe canoes was Kahoora, whom I have already men- tioned as the leader of the party who cut off the crew of the Adventure's boat. This was the third time he had vifited us, without betraying the fmalleft appearance of fear. I was afhore when he now arrived, but had got on board juH as he was going away. Omai, who had returned with me, prefently pointed him our, and folicited me to flioot him. Not fatisfied with this, he addrcfled himfelf to Kahoora, threatening '1 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. X3.1 tlircatcninc: to be his executioner, if ever he prcfumcd to ^ '777- , , " * February. vifit US again. s ■,^. .^ The New '/ealandcr paid fo little rcp;ard to thcfe threats, that he returned, tiie next morning, with his whole family, Tuefday jji men, women, and children, to the number of twenty and upwards. Omai was the firfl: who acquainted me with his being along- fide the fliip, and dcfired to know if he Ihould aflx him to conic on board. I told him he might; and ac- cordingly he introduced the Chief into the cabin, faying, •' There, is Kahoora; kill him!" Bur, as if he had forgot his Ibi mer threats, or were afraid that I fliould call upon him to perform them, lie immcdiarjiy retired. In a fhorc lime, however, he returned; and feeing tlxe C hicf unhurt, he expoflalated with me very earneftly, faying, '' Why do •• you not kill him? You tell me, if a man kills another in '• England, that he is hanged for it. This man has killed " ten, and yet you will not kill him ; though many of his " countrymen dcfire it, and it would be very good." Omai'3 arguments, though fpccious enough, having no weight with me, I dcfired him to afk the Chief, why he had killed Captain Furncaux's people ? At this queflion, Kahoora fold- ed his arms, hung down his head, and looked like one caught in a trap: And, I firmly believe, he expecT:ed inftant death. But no fooncr was he afTured of his fafety, than he became cheerful, lie did not, however, fecni willing to give me an anfwer to the queftion that had been put to him, till I had, again and again, repeated my proniife that he Ihould not be hurt. Then he ventured to tcll us, That one of his countrymen having brought a ftone hatchet to barter, the man, to whom it was ofTered, took it, and would neither return it,, nor give any thing for it ; on which the owner of 8 it. lU ,r. m \ '1 - i .{if !■ ! :l m ■154, if lu^ ' i 134 '777- fcbriiary. AVOYAGETO it fnatched up the bread as an equivalent j and then the quar- rel began. . . The remainder of Kahoora's account of this unhappy af- fair, diflered very little from what we had before learnt, from the reft of his countrymen. He mentioned the narrow efcapc he had, during the fray; a mufquet being levelled at him, which he avoided by fkulking behind the boat ; and another man, who Hood clofe to him, was fliot dead. As foon as the mufquet was difcharged, he inftantly feized the opportunity to attack Mr. Rowe, who commanded the party, and who defended himfelf with his hanger (with which he wounded Kahoora in the arm), till he was overpowered by numbers. , Mr. Burney, who was fent by Captain Furneaux the next day *, with an armed party, to look for his miffing people, upon difcovering the horrid prcjofs of their fliocking fate, had fired feveral vollies amongft the crowds of natives who flill remained aflembled on the fpot, and were, probably, partaking of the detel^ible banquet. It was natural to fup- pofe that he had not fired in vain ; and that, therefore, fome of the murderers and devourers of our unhappy country- men had fufTered under our juft refentment. Upon inquiry, however, into this matter, not only from Kahoora, but from others who had opportunities of knowing, it appeared that our fuppoficion was groundlefs, and that not one of the Ihot fired by Mr. Burney 's people had taken efFc(5t, fo as to kill, or eve:i to hurt, a fingle perfon. It was evident, that moft of the natives we had met with fiuce our arrival, as they knew I was fully acquainted with * See his Nanativc. Coolc.'s Voyngc, Vcl. ii. p. 255 — 259. the lie •' THE PACIFIC OCEAN. the hiftory of the maflacre, expej.-'^9 ' k. :>flH J 1 'fmm im M. .';j isj^H ,'n WSSISM 'VwSm ,r ^^LpJ^HH If 6 A VOYAGE TO f : I € <777- February. w his own country. We had not been there many days, be- fore he had an opportunity of being gratified in this ; for a youth about fevcntccn or eighteen years oi age, named Taweiharooa, oflcrcd to accompany him ; and took up his relidcnce on board. I paid little attention to this at firft, imagining that he would leave us when we were about to depart, and after he had got what he could from Omai. At length; f-nding t'l-^t he was fixed in his refolution to go with us, c a having learnt that he was the only fon of a deceafed Chief, and that his mother, ftill living, was a wo- man much rcfpeded here, I was apprehenfive that Omai had deceived him and his friends, by giving them hopes and afllirances of his being fent back. I therefore caufed it to be made known to them all, that if the young man went away with us, he would never return. But this declaration I'eemed to make no fort of imprclTion. The afternoon be- fore we left the Cove, Tiratoutou, his mother, came on board, to receive her lad prefent from Omai. The fame evening, fhe and Taweiharooa parted, with all the marks of tender affection that might be expcdlcd between a parent and a child, who were never to meet again. But fhe faid flie would cry no more ; and, fure enough, fhe kept her word. For when flie returned the next morning, to take her Lift farewell of him, all the time flie was on board fhe remained quite cheerful, and went away wholly uncon- cerned. » That Taweiharooa might be fent away in a manner be- coming his birth, another youth was to have gone with him as his fervant; and, with this view, as we fuppofed, he re- mained on board till we were about to fail, when his friends took him afhore. However, his place was fupplied, next morning, by another, a boy of about nine or ten years of age, THE PACIFIC O C E A N, ^27 %' J'wM % f||n T '!;■**■ i iVj "' jfl ■ -"t'^jj '.":t.|n '^J ■ ij, jta ':j:lw| age, named Kokoa. He was prefented to mc by his own father, who, I believe, would have parted with his dog with far lefs indifference. The very little clothing the boy had, he ftript him of, and left him as naked as he was born. It was to no purpofe that I endeavoured to convince thefe people of the improbability, or rather of the impoflibility, of thefe youths ever returning home. Not one, not even their nearefl relations, fcemed to trouble themfelvcs about their future fate. Since this was the cafe, and I was well fatisfied that the boys would be no lofcrs by exchange of place, I the more readily gave my confent to their going. From my own obfervations, and from the information of Taweiharooa and others, it appears to me that the New Zealanders nm ft live under perpetual apprehenfions of be- ing deflroyed by each other j there being few of their tribes that have not, as they think, fuftained wrongs from fonic other tribe, which they are continually upon the watch to revenge. And, perhaps, the defire of a good meal may be no fmall incitement. I am told that many years will fome- times elapfe, before a favourable opportunity happens, and that the fon never lofes fight of an injury that has been done to his father. Their method of executing their hor- rible defigns, is by ftealing upon the adverfe party in the night ; and if they find them unguarded (which, however, I believe, is very feldom the cafe), they kill every one indif- criminately ; not even fparing the women and children. When the maffacre is completed, they either feaft and gorge themfelves on the fpot, or carry off as many of the dead bodies as they can, and devour them at home, with a<5ls of brutality too (hocking to be defcribed. If they are difco- vered before they can execute their bloody purpofe, they generally fteal off again j and fometimes are purfued and Vol. I. T attacked >777- February. 'It*' 'f'' m iff I'll! '1 ll '11 n 1 D. f 1 'IB' •'!■ '%■ ; »■»■ ■ ,': »'«- i.i 1 i |ll of f k il:.,; Il;::;1 138 A VOYAGE TO Fe'brua' attackcd by the other party, io their turn. To give quarter, V --V-— ^ or to take prifoners, makes no part of their military law ; fo that the vanquiflied can only fave their lives by flight. This perpetual ftate of vsrar, and deftrudlive method of con- dudling it, operates fo ftrongly in producing habitual cir- cumfpedtion, that one hardly ever finds a New Zealandcr ofF his guard, either by night or by day. Indeed, no other man can have fuch powerful motives to be vigilant, as the pre- fervation both of body and of foul depends upon it. For, according to their fyllem of belief, the foul of the man whofs flefli is devoured by the enemy, is doomed to a per- petual fire, while the foul of the man whofe body has been refcued from thofe who killed him, as well as the fouls of all who die a natural death, afcend to the habitations of the Gods. I afked, Whether they eat the flefh of fuch of their friends as had been killed in war, but whofe bodies were faved from falling into the enemy's hands ? They feemed furprifed at the quef^ion, which they anfwered in the nega- tive, exprefling fome abhorrence at the very idea. Their common method of difpofing of their dead, is by depofit- ing their bodies in the earth; but if they have more of their flaughtered enemies than they can eat, they throw them into the fea. They have no fuch thing as niorais, or other places of public worftiipi nor do they ever aflTemble together with this view. But they have Priefts, who alone addrefs the Gods in prayers, for the profperity of their temporal affairs; fuch as an enterprife againft a hoftile tribe, a fifhing party, or the like. .- - Whatever the principles of their religion may be, of which we remain very ignorant, its inftru that the winds from 't? THE PACIFIC OCEAN. from the South Eaftward arc commonly moderate, but at- tended witli cloudy weather, or rain. The South Well winds blow very ftronp;, and are alio attended with rain ; but they feUlom laft long. The North Weft winds arc the mort prevailing; and though often prcfty llrong, arc al- moft conllaiitly connected with fine weather. In Ihoir, the only obftacle to this being one of the fineft couniriea upon earth, is its great hillinel's ; which, allowing the woods to be cleared away, would leave it lefs proper for palluragc than flat land ; and ftill more improper for cultivation, which could never be efletfted here by the plough. The large trees which cover the hills are chiefly of two forts. One of them, of the fize of our largell firs, grows much after their manner; but the leaves, and fmall ber- ries on their points, are much liker the yew. It was this which fupplicd the place of fpruce in making beer; which we did with a ftrong dccocTiion of its leaves, fer- mented with treacle or fugar. And this liquor, when well prepared, was acknowledged to be little inferior to the American fpruce beer, by thofe who had experience of both. The other ibrt of tree is not unlike a maple; and grows often to a great fizc; but it only ferved for fuel, as the wood, both of this and of the preceding, was found *o be rather too heavy for mafts, yards, and other flmilar re- pairs. There is a greater variety of trees on the fmall flc\t fpots behind the beaches. Amongft thefc are two that bear a kind of plum of the fize of prunes ; the one yellow, called karraca ; and the Other black, called maitao ; but neither of them of a very agreeable tafte ; though the natives eat both and our people did the fame. Thofe of th firfl: fort grow V 2 on M7 r '777- r. m ''.? 148 i' (, 1777. February. C- -w — ^ AVOYAGETO on fmall trees, always facing the fea ; but the others belong to larger trees that ftand farther within the wood, and which we frequently cut down for fuel. A fpecies of Philade/phus grows on the eminences which jut out into the fea ; and alfo a tree bearing fiowers almoft like myrtle, with roundifti fpotted leaves of a difagieeable fmell. We drank the leaves of the Philadelpbus as tea ; and found that they had a pleafant tafte and fmell, and might make an excellent fubftitute for the oriental fort *. Among other plan's that were ufeful to us, may be reckoned wild celery, which ^rows plentifully in almoft every cove ; efpecially if the natives have ever refided there before; and one that we ufed to call fcurvy-grafs, though entirely different from the plant to which we give that name. This, however, is far preferable to ours for com- mon ufe ; and may be known by its jagged leaves, and fmall clufters of white flowers on the top. Both forts were boiled every morning, with wheat ground in a mill, and with portable foup, for the people's breakfaft; and alfo amongft their peafe-foup, for dinner. Sometimes they were ufed as fallad, or drefled as greens. In all which ways they are goodi and, together with the fifli, with which we were con- ilantly fupplied, they formed a fort of refrcflimcnt, perhaps little inferior to what is to be met with in places moft noted by navigators for plentiful fupplics of animal and vegetable food. Amongft the known kinds of plants met with here, are common and rough bindweed ;night-lhade and netdes, both * See a reprefentation of this, Plaii N^ XXII, in Captain Cooi's Jccount of hh iuond Voyage, Vol. i, p. lOO. which THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 149 which grow to the fize of fmall trees ; a flirubby fpecdwell, found near all the beaches ; fow-thiftles, virgin's bower, vanelloc, French willow, euphorbia, and crane's-bill: alfo cudweed, ruflies, bull-ruflies, flax, all-heal, American night- fliade, knot-grafs, brambles, eye-bright, and groundfel; but the /pedes of each are different from any we have in Europe. There is alfo polypody, fpleenwort, and about twenty other different forts of ferns, entirely peculiar to the place; with feveral forts of moffes, either rare, or produced only here; befides a great number of other plants, \vhofc ufes are not yet known, and fubjeds fit only for botanical books. Of thefe, however, there is one which deferves particular notice here, as the natives make their garments of it, and it produces a fine filky flax, fuperior in appearance to any thing we have ; and probably, at leaft, as flrong. It grows every where near the fea, and in fome places a confiderable way up the hills, in bunches or tufts, with fedge-like leaves, bearing, on a long ftalk, yellowifh flowers, which are fuc- ceeded by a long roundifli pod, filled v/ith very thin (hining black feeds. A fpccies of long pepper is found in great plenty? but it has little of the aromatic flavour that makes fpices valuable ; and a tree much like a palm at a diflance, is pretty frequent in the woods, though the deceit appears as you come near it. It is remarkable that, as the greatcfl:- pare of the trees and plants ^irsd, at tljis time, loft their flowers, we perceived they were generally of the berry- bcaving kiinl ; oF which, and other feeds, 1 brouglit away about thirty different forts. Of thefe, one in p.irticular, which bears a red berry, is much like the fupplc-jack, and' grows about the trees, flretching from one to anotl^jr, in fuch a manner as to render the woods almoft wholly im- padable. The I7V February, ^H f m 'Hf.i § 550 AVOYAGETO ,'777- The birds, of wliich there is a tolerable flock, as well as February. . >— -V— — / the vegetable productions, are almoli entirely peculiar to the place. And though it be difficult to follow them, on account of the quantity of underwood, and the climbing plants, that render travelling, for plcafurc alone, uncom- monly fatiguing, yet a person, by remaining in one place, may Ihoot as many in a day as would ferve fix or eighr. others. The principal forts are, large brown parrots, with white or greyifli heads; green parroquets, with red fore- heads ; large wood pigeons, brown above, with white bel- lies, the reft green, and the bill and feet red. Two forts of cuckoos, one as large as our common fort, of a brown co- lour, variegated with black ; the other not larger than a fparrow, of a fplendid green call above, and elegantly va- ried with waves of golden, green, brown, and white colours , below. Eoth thefe are fcarce; but I'everal others are in ■ greater plenty; one of which, of a black colour, with a greenilh call, is remarkable for having a tuft of white curled feathers hanging under tlie throat, and was called ihe Poy bird * by our people. Another fore, rather fmaller, is black, with a brown back and wings, and two fmall gills under the root of the bill. Tins vte called the fmall wattle bird, to diflinguilh it from another, which we called the large one, of tlie fize of a common pigeon, with two large yellow and purple membranes alfo, at the root of the bill. It is black, or rather blue, and has no refemblance of the other but in name ; for the bill is thick, Ihorr, and crooked, and has altogether dn uncommon appearance. A grofs-bcak, about the fize of a thrulh, of a brown colour, v/ith a red- dilh tail, is freqient ; as is alfo a fmall greenish bird, which * Sec adrawing of this bird, Plate N" LII. in Captain Cook's A count of his Second Voyage, Vol. i. p. 97. It had this name Crom its tuft of fe.ithcrs, refcmbiing the white flowers iifcd as cniameiits in the ears at Otahcite, and called there Poowa. 2 k 'Ml THE PACIFIC OC E A N. is almoft the only mufical one here, but is fuflkient by itfclf to fill the woods with a melody, that is not only fweet, but ib varied, that one would imagine he was furrounded by a hundred diflereni forts of birds, when the little warbler is near. From this circumflancc we named it the mocking bird. There are likewife three or four forts of fmaller birds ; one of which, in figure and tamenefs, exactly re- fern bles our robin, but is black where that is brown, and white where that is red. Another differs but little from this» except in being fmaller ; and a third fort has a long tail, which it expands as a fan on coming near, and makes a chirping noifc when it perches. King-fiflicrs are feen, though rare, and are about the fize of our Englifli ones, but with an inferior plumage. About the rocks are feen black fea-pies with red bills ; and crefled Ihags of a leaden colour, with fmall black fpots on the wings and ihoulders, and the refl of the upper part, of a velvet black tinged with green. V/e frequently fliot both thcfc, and alio a more common fort of fhags, black above and white underneath, that build their nefts upon trees, on wdiich fomctimes a dozen or more lit at once. There are alfo, about the ihorc, a few fea-gulls; fome blue herons; and fometimes, though very rarely, wild ducks; a fniall fandy coloured plover, and fome fand larks. And fmall penguins black above, with a white belly, as well as numbers r^ little black divers, fwim often about the Sound. We like wife killed two or three rails of a brown or yellowifli co- lour, variegated with black, which feed about the fmall brooks, and arc nearly as large as a common fowl. No other fort of game was f cen, except a fingle fnipe, which was fliot, and differs but little from that of Europe. The 151 '777- February. H I" ■ V ■ ^m n "- ^nni^l 1 m m ■ m ' ;^i ifi« »5a «777- February. A VOYAGE O The principal fifli wc caughr by the Seine were mullets and elephant (illi, with a few lolcs and flounders ; but thofe that the natives moftly fupplied us with, were a fort of fea- bream of a filver colour with a black fpot on the neck, large Conger eels, and a fifli in fhape much li'n.* the bream, but fo large as to weigh five, fix, or feven pounds. It is blackifh with thick lips, and called Mog^e by the natives. With hook and line we caught chiefly a bUckilh fifli of the fize of a haddock, called cole-fifli by the feamen, but difler- inf, much from that known by the fame name in Europe; and another of the fame fize, of a reddifli colour with a little beard, which we called night walkers, from the greatell number being caught in the night. Sometimes we got a fiart of fmall falmon, gurnards, Ikate, anf' nurfes; and the natives, now and then, brought hake, paracutas, a fmall fort of mackerel, parrot-fifli, and leather-jackets; befides another fifli which is very rare, fhap.cd aliiioil like a dolphin, of a black colour, with fl:rong bony jaws, and the back-fin, as well as thofe oppofite to it, much lengthened at the end. All thefe forts, except the laft, which we did not try, are ex- cellent to eat; but tiie Mogge^ fmall falmon, and cole-fifli are fu:)erior to th'. Cti, The rocks are abundantly furniflied with great quantities of excellent mufcles ; one fort of which, that is not very common, meafures above a foot in length. There are alfo cockles buried in the fand of the fmall beaches; and in fome places oyflcrs, which, though very fmall, are well tafted. Of other fliell-fifli there are ten or twelve forts, fuch as peri- Vv'inckles, wilks, limpets, and fome very beautiful fea-ears; clfo another fort wliicli Hick to the weeds; with fome other ^things, as fca-c^gs, flar-fifli, &c. feveral of which are pe- • cuUar f"f ■IIP %1 THE PACIFIC OCEAM, culiar to the place. The natives likewife foinetm ? brn»* ght us very fine cray-fifh, equal to our largeft lobfters, ar»(' cuttle ££h, which they eat themfelves. Infeds are very rare. Of thefe, we only faw two forts oi' dragon-flies, fome butterflies, fmall graflioppers, feveral forts of fpiders, fome fmall black ants, and vaft numbers of fcorpion flies, with whofe chirping the woods refound. The only noxious one is the fand-fly, very numerous here, and almoft as troablefome as the mufquitoe i for we found no leptile here, except rwo or three forts of fmall harmlefs lizards *. It is remarkable, that, in this extenfive had, there fliould. not even be the traces of any quadruped, only excepting a few rats, and a fort of fox-dog, which is a domeftic animal with the natives. Neither is there any mineral worth notice, bu: a green jafpcr or ferpent-ftone, of which the New Zealanders make their tools and ornaments. This is efteeir ?.d a pr cious ar- ticle by them ; and they have fome iuy : 'Htioua notions about the method of its generation, w. ; .;i we could not perfecTtly underftand. It is plain, however, that wherrver it may be found (which, they fay, is in the charjvcl of a large river far to the Southward;, it is difpofed in the tarth in thin layers, or, perhaps, in detached pieces, like our flints ; for the edges of thofe pieces, which have not been cut, are co- vered with a whitifli cruft like thefe. A piece of this fort was purchafed, about eighteen inches long, a foot broad, and near two inches thick ; which yet feemed to be only the fragment of a larger piece. * In a feparate memovandum-book, Mr. Anderfon mentions the monftrous ?ni- mal of the lizard kind, defcribed by the two boys after they left the iflaiid. Vol. I. m 'The 'jr3 >' :i '■■¥ '■# . •'1 .^-^-..r 154 1777- February'. .y A VOYAGE TO m %' I.. The natives do not exceed the common ftature of Euro- peans ; and, in generaJ, are not fo well made, efpecially about the limbs. This is, perhaps, the cflfecn: of fitting, for the mofl part, on their hams; and of being confined,. by the hilly difpofition of the country, from ufing that fort of ex- ercife which contributes to render the body ftraight and well-p '^portioned. There are, however, feveral exceptions to this ; and fome are remarkable for their large bones and. mufcles ; but few that I have feen are corpulent. Their colour is of different cafts, from a pretty deep black to a yellowifh or olive tinge ; and their features alfo are various, fome refembling Europeans. But, in general, their faces are round, with their lips full, and alfo their nofes toward the point ; though the firft are not uncommonly thick, nor the laft flat. I do not, however, recolle<5t to have feen an in- flance of the true aquiline nofe amongft them. Their teeth are commonly broad, white, and well fet; and their eyes large, with a very free motion, which feems the efFedt of. habit. Their hair is black, flraight, and ftrong, commonly cut fhort on the hind part, with the reft tied on the^ crown of the head : but fome have it of a curling difpofition, or of a brown colour. In the young, the countenance is ge- nerally free or open ; but in many of the men it has a fe- jious caft, and fometimes a fullennefs or referve, efpecially if they are ftrangers. The women are, in general, fmaller tlmn the men ; but have few peculiar graces, either in form or features, to diflinguifli them.. ■ t • * . The drefs of both fexes is alike ; and confifts of an oblong garment about five feet long, and four broad, made from the filky flax already mentioned. This feems to be their moll material and complex manufa(5ture, which is executed THE PACIFIC OCEAN. l)y knotting; and their work is often ornamented with pieces of dog-fkin, or chequered at the corners. They bring two corners of this garment over the Ihoulders, and faften it on the breart with the other part, which covers the body ; and about the belly, it is again tied witli a girdle made of mar. Sometimes they cover it with large feathers of birds (whch feem to be wrought into the piece of cloth when it is made), or with dog-fkin ; and that alone we have feen worn as a covering. Over this garment many of them wear mats, which reach from the Ihoulders to near the heels. But the moft common outer-covering is a quan- tity of the above fedgy plant, badly dreCTed, which they fallen on a firing to a confiderable length, and, throwing it about the flioulders, let it fall down on all fides, as far as the middle of the thighs. When they fit down with this upon them, iiher in their boats, or upon the fhore, it would be difficult to diflinguifli them from large grey ftones, if their black heads, projeifting beyond their coverings, did not en- gage one to a ftri(5lcr examination* By way of ormment, they vx in their heads feathers, or combs of bone, or wood, adorr.ed with pearl fliell, or the thin inner fkin of fome leaf. And in the ears, both of men and women, which are pierced, or rather fliij are hung fmall pieces of jafper, bits of cloth, or beads wiien they can get them. A few alfo have the feptiim of the nofe bored in its lower part; but no ornamenc was worn there that we faw ; though one man pafTed a twig through it, to fliew us that it was fometimes ufed for that purpofe. They wear long beards, but are fond of having them (haved. . Some are pundured or flained in the face with curious fpiral and other figures, of a black or deep blue colour; X 2 but ^SS 1777- Februaiy, m M Jmh^ ii6 A VOYAGE TO 1777. Februar) . Ml '.>",■ nel but it is doubtful whether this be ornamental, or intended as a mark of particular diftincftion ; and the woinen, who are marked fo, have the pundlure only on their lips, or a fmall fpot on their chins. Both fexes often befmear their faces and heads with a red paint, which fccms to be a martial ochre mixed with greafe j and tlie women fome- times wear necklaces of fhark's teeth, or bunches of long beads, -/aich feem to be made of the leg-bones of fmall birds, or a particular Ihell. A few alfo have fmall trian- gular aprons adorned with the feathers of parrots, or bits of pearl (hells, furnifhed with a double or treble fet of cords to fallen them about the waift. I have fometimes feen caps or bonnets niade of the feathers of birds, which may be reckoned as ornaments ; for it is not their cuftom to wear any covering on their heads. ' They live in the fmall coves formerly defcribed, in com- panies of forty or fifty, or more ; and fometimes in fingle families, building their huts contiguous to each other ; which, in general, arc miferable lodging-places. The beft 1 ever faw was about thiriy feer long, fifteen broad, and fix high, built exadly in the manner of one of our country barns. The infide was both ftrong and regularly made of fupporters at the fides, alternately large and fmall, well fattened by means ot withes, and painted red and black. The ridge pole was ftrong; and the large bull-ru(hes, which compofed the inner part of the thatching, were laid with great exactnefs parallel to each other. At one end was a Imall fquare hole, which fervcd as a door to creep in at ; and near it another much fmaller, feemingly for letting out the fmoke, as no other vent f • it could be feen. This, jiowever, ought to be confidered as one of the beft, and the refidence of fomc principal perfon ; for the greateft part of 3 them M THE PACIFIC OCEAN. them are not half the above fize, and feldom exceed four feet in height ; being, befides, indifferently built, though proof againfl wind and rain. No other furniture is to be feen in them, than a few fmall bafkets or bags, in which they put their fiihing- hooks, and other trifles ; and they fit down in the middle round a fmall fire, where they alfo probably fleep, without any other co- vering than what they wear in the day, or perhaps without that; as fuch confined places mull be very warm, though inhabited but by a few perfons. They live chiefly by fifliing, making ufe either of nets of different kinds, or of wooden filli- hooks pointed with bone ; but fo oddly made, that a ftranger is at a lofs to know how they can anfwer fuch a purpofe. It alfo appears, that they remove their habitations from one place to another when the fifli grow fcarce, or for fomc other reafon ; for wc found houfes now built in feveral parts, where fhere. had been none when we were here during our lall voyage, and even thefe have been already d :ferted. Their boats are well !)uilr, of planks raifed upon each other, and faftened with flirong withes, which alio bind a long narrow piece on the outfide of the feams to prevent their leaking. Some are fifty feet long, and £o broad as to be able to fail without an outrigger -, but the fmaller fort commonly have onej and they often fallen tv/o together by rafters, which we then call a double canoe. They carry from five to thirty men c/ more ; and have often a large head ingenioufly carvedj and painted with a figvire ar the point, which feems intended to repicfent a man, with his features diilorted by r.ige. Their paddles are about four or five feet long, narrow, and pointed j with which, when' they ^51 February. lit p^m 'm ) % m '' ^8 ^ ^iffli 'M M 158 >777' Fi l)rii.iry. A VOYAGE TO they keep time, t!ic boat is pufticd along pretty fvviftly. Their fiul, whicli is feldom ufcd, is made of a mat of a triangular fhape, having the broacled part above. The only method of drefluig their fi(h, is by roaUin^y or rather baking; for they are intirely ignorant of the art of boil- ing. In the lame manner they tlrel's the root, and part of the ftalk, of the large fern-tree, in a great hole dug for that purpofe, which fcrves as an oven. After which they fplit it, and find, within, a fine gelatinous fubftance, like boiled fago powder, but firmer. They alio ufe another fmaller fern root, which feems to be their fuhftitute for bread, as it is dried and carried about with them, together with dried fi(h in great quantities, when they remove their families, or go far from home. This they beat with a flick till it becomes pretty foft, when they chew it fufficiently, and fpit out the hard fibrous part, the other having a fwectifli mealy tafte not at all difagreeablc. When they dare not venture to fea, or perhaps from choice, they fupply the place of other fifli with mufcles and fca-ears; great quantities of the Ihells of which lie ia heaps near their houfes. And they fometimes, though rarely, find means to kill rails, penguins, and (hags, which help to vary their diet. They alfo breed confiderable num- bers of the dogs, mentioned before, for food ; but thefe cannot be confidered as a principal article of diet. From whence we may conclude, that, as there is not the leafl fign of cultivation of land, they depend principally for theii fubfiftcncc on the fea, which, indeed, is very bountiful in its fupply. Their method of feeding correfponds with the naflinefs of their perlons, which often fmell difagrceably from the quantity THE PACIFIC OCEAN. quantity of grcafe about them, and their clothes never be- ing vvaflicd. \Vc have fccn them cat the vermin, with which their heads arc fufliciently flocked. They alfo ufcd to devour, witii tlie grcatcft eagcrnefsy. large quantities of ftinking train oil, and blubber of feals, which we were mching at the tent, and had kept near two months; and, on board the fliips, they were not fatisficd with emptying the lamps, but a^flually fwallowcd rhc cotton, and fragrant wick, with equal voracity. It is wt •iViy of no- tice, that though the inhabitants of Van Dicmen's land ap- pear to have but a fcanty fubfiftence, they would not even taflc our bread, though they faw us eat it ; whereas thcfe people devoured it greedily, when both mouldy and rotten, But this mufl not be imputed to any defect in their fenfa- tions; for I have obferved them throw away thingo which wc eat, with evident difguft, after only fmelling to them. They fhew as much ingenuity, both in invention and- execution, as any uncivilized nations under fimilar cir- cumflances. For, without the ufe of any metal tools, they make every thing bv which they procure their fubfill- ence, clothing, and warlike weapons, with a degree of neatnefs, llrength, and convenience for accomplifhing their feveral purpofes. Their chief mechanical tool is formed oxadlly after the manner of our adzes ; and is made, as arc alfo the chilTel and goudgc, of the green fcrpent-ftone or jafper, alrear';^ mentioned; though fornetimcs they are com- pofed of a black, fmooth, and very folid Hone. But their mafter-picce feems to be carving, which is found upon the mod trifling things; and, in particular, the heads of their canoes are fometimes ornamented with it in fuch a manner, as not. only (hews much defign, but is alfo an example of; their li? «777- February. P ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V /q .«/ r/. V 1.0 I.I 1.25 |50 ■^" M^' ■U Bi 12.2 ^ U° 12.0 ^ V] 7 '/ -(^ Photo^aphic Sciences Corporation a?? ^v ^ •SJ <^ 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MS80 (716)872-4503 '%'" ^ A :^ . and inclining to corpulence. At this time, a fmall canoe was ' launched in a great hurry from the further end of the beach, and a man get- ting into it, put off, as with a view to reach the (hip. On perceiving this, I brought to, that we might receive the vifit ; but the man's refolution faiHng, he foon returned toward the beach, where, after fome time, another man joined him in the canoe ; and then they both paddled to- ward us. They ftopt fliort, however, as if afiaid to ap- proach, until Omai, who addrcflcd them in the Otaheitc language, in fome meafure quieted their apprchcnfions. They then came near enough to take fome beads and nails, which were tied to a piece of wood, and thrown into the canoe. They fecmed afraid to touch thci'c things, and put the piece of wood afide without untying them. This, how- ever, might arifc from fupcrftition ; for Omai told us, that when they faw us offering them prefents, they aflccd fomc- thing for their Eatooa, or god. He alfo, perhaps inipro- Z 2 pcrly, »7T7« March m i-' b. il tyz A VOYAGE TO '777- March. m'::v[ perly, put the^queftion to them, Whether they ever eat human flefh ? whicli they anfwered in the negative, with a mixture of indignation and abhorrence. One of them, whole name was Mourooa, being afked how he came by a fear on his forehead, told us that it was the confequence of a wound he had got in fighting with the people of an ifland, which lies fo the North Eaftward, who fometlmes came to invade them. They afterward took hold of a rope. Still, however, they would not venture on board ; but told Omai, who underilood them pretty well, that their countrymen on fliore had given them this caution, at the If me time directing them to inquire, from whence our Ihip came, and to learn the name of the Captain. On our part, we inquired the name of the ifland, which they called Mangya or Mangeea ; and fometimes added to it Nooe^ naf, nai-jua. The name of their Chief, they faid, was Orooaeeka. Mourooa was lufty and well made, but not ^ ery tall. His 'features were agreeable, and his difpofition feemingly no lefs fo; for he made feveral droll gefticulations, which indicated both good-nature and a fliare of humour. He alfo made others v^hich feemed of a '''^rious kind, and re- peated feme words with a devout air, before he ventured to Hy hold of the rope at the (hip's ftern ; which was pro- bably to recommend hiiufelf to the protedion of fomc Di- vinity. His colour was nearly of the fime caft with that common to the mod Ibuthern Europeans. Tiie other man was not fo handforac. Both of them had llrong, flraight hair, of a jet colour, tied together on the crown of the head with a bit of cloth. Tliey wore fuch girdles as we had perceived about thofe on (hore, and we found they were a fubdance made from the Moms papyri/era, in the fume manner as at the other iilands of this ocean. I.t was • . glazLcd THE PACIFIC OCEAN. glazed like the fort ufed by the natives of the Friendly Iflands ; but the cloth on their heads was white, like that which is found at Otaheite. They had on, a kind of fan- dais, made or a grafTy fubilance interwoven, which we alfo obferved were worn by thofe who flood upon the beach ; and, as we fuppofed, intended to defend their feet againft the rough coral rock. Their beards were long ; and the in- fide of their arms, from the fhoulder to the elbow, and fome other parts, were puncTiured or tatooed^ after the manner of the inhabitants of almolt all the other iflands in the South Sea. The lobe of their ears was pierced, or rather flit, and to fuch a length, that one of them ftuck there a knife and fome beads, which be had received from usj and the fame perfon had two poliflied pearl-flbells, and a bunch of human hair, loofely twifted, han';mg about his neck, which was the only ornament we obferved. The canoe they came in (which was the only one we fiw), was not above ten feet long, and very narrow; but both ftrong and neatly made. The forepart had a flat board fattened over it, and projcvfting out, to prevent the fea getting in on plunging, like the fmall Evaas at Otaheite; but it had an upright flern, about five feet high, like fome in New Zealand ; and the upper '^nd of this ftern-poft was forked. The lower part of the canoe was of white wood ; but the upper was black, and their paddles, made of wood of the fame co- lour, not above three feet long, broad at one end, ?.nd blunted. They paddled either end of the canoe forward indifferently; and only turned about their faces to paddle the contrary way. - We now flood off and on ; and as foon as the fliips were in a proper flation, about ten o'clock I ordered two boats, one ot them from the Difcovery,. to fbunct the coafl, and to . . . endeavour 173 •r^ »777« Marcb>. I ^74 1777- March. AVOYAGETO endeavour to find a landing-place. With this view, I went in one of thein myfclf, taking with me fuch articles to give the natives, as I thought might ferve to gain their good-will. I had no fooner put off from the fhip, than the canoe, with the two men, which had left us not long be- fore, paddled towards my boat; and, having come along- side, Mourooa llept into her, without being afked, and without a moment's hefitation. Omai, who was with me, was ordered to inquire of him, where we could land ; and he dirc(5led "S to two different places. Rut I faw, with regret, that the atrempt could not be made at either place, uriiefs at the rifle of having our boats filled with water, or even ftaved to pieces. Nor were we more fortunate in our fearch for anchorage ; for we could find no bottom, till within a cable's length of the breakers. There we met with from forty to twenty fathoms depth, over fharp coral rocks; fo that anchoring would have been attended with much niorc danger than landing. While we were thus employed in reconnoitring the fliore, great numbers of the n icivcs thronged down upon the reef, all armed as above mentioned. Mourooa, who was now in my boat, probably thinking that this warlike appearance hindered us from landing, ordered them to retire back. As many of tlicm complied, I judged he muft be a perfon of fome confequence among them. Indeed, if we underftood him right, he was the king^s brother. So great was the curiofity of feveral of them, that they took to the water, and, fwinmiing off to the boats, came on board them without rcfcrve. Nay, we found it difficult to keep them out; and flill more difficult to prevent their carrying off every thing they could lay their hands ■ . upon. It ■■ TIIEPACIFIC OCEAN. upon. At length, when they perceived that we were re- turning to the fhips, they all left us, except our original vifiter Mourooa. He, though not without evident figns of fear, kept his place in my boat, and accompanied me on board the fliip. The cattle and other new objecfls, that prefentcd them- felves to him there, did not ftrike him with fo much fur- prife as one might have expecHied. Perhaps his mind was too much taken up about his own fafety, to allow him to attend to other things. It is certain, that he feemed very Tinea fy j and the fhip, on our getting on board, happening to be (landing off fhorc, this circumftance made him the more fo.. 1 could get but Tittle new information from him ; and therefore, after he had made a fliort day, I ordered a boat to carry him in toward the land. As foon as he got out of the cabin, he happened to Humble over one of the goats. His curiofity now overcoming his fear, he flopped, looked at it, and afked Omai, what bird this was ? and not receiving an immediate anfwer from him, he repeated the queftion to fome of the people upon deck. The boat hav- ing conveyed him pretty near to the furf, he leaped into the fea, and fwam afliore. He had no fooner landed, than the multitude of his countrymen gathered round him, as if with an eager curiofity to learn from him what he had feen ; and in this fituation they remained, when wc loft: fight of them. As foon as the boat returned, we hoifted her" in, and made fail from tlie land to the Northward. Thus were we obliged to leave, unvifited, this- fine ifland,- which feemed capable of fupplying all our wantSi It lies in the latitude ot ui° s?' South; and in the longitude of 20i* ^^' Eaft. Such parts of the coaft, as fell under our ^. ,., -^ obfervaiion,, 175 '777- March. ?5 m ■^1 Hi Sly A VOYAGE TO obfervation, are guarded by a reef of coral rock, on the out fide of which the Tea is of an unfathomable depth. It is full five leagues in circuit, and of a moderate and pretty equal height ; though, in clear weather, it may be certainly feen at the diftance of ten leagues; for we had not loft figlit of ic at night, when we had run above feven leagues, and the weather was cloudy. In the middle, it rifes into little hills, from whence there is a gentle defcent to the fliore, which, at the South Weft part, is ftcep, though not above ten or twelve feet high ; and has feveral excavations made by the beating of the waves againft a brownifli fand-ftone of which it is compofed. The defcent here is covered with trees of a deep green colour, very thick, but not high, which fcem all of one fort, unlefs neareft the fliore, where there are great numbers of that fpecics of drac<£na found in the woods of New Zealand, which are alfo fcattered in fome other places. On the North Weft part, the fhore, as we mentioned above, ends in a fandy beech ; beyond which the land is broken down into fmall chafms or gullies, and has a broad border of trees rcfembling tall willows ; which, from its regularity, might be fuppofed a work of art, did not its extent forbid us to think fo. Farther up on the afcenr, the trees were of the deep green mentioned before. Some of us fuppofed thefe to be the rinwy intermixed with low cocoa palms; and a few of fome other forts. They fccmcd not fo thick as on the South Weft part, and higher ; wliich appearance might be owing to our nearer approach to the fhore. On the little hills, were fome trees of a taller fort, thinly fcattered; but the other parts of them were cither bare, and of a rcddiOi colour, or covered with fome- ihing like fern. Upon the whole, the ifland has a pretty afped, and might be made a beautiful fpot by cultivation. 3 As THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ^17 As the inhabitants fecmed to be both numerous and well fed, fuch articles of provifion as the ifland produces mufl: be in great plenty. It might, however, be a matter of curiofity to know, particularly, their method of fubfiftence ; for our friend Mourooa told us, that they had no animals, as hogs and dogs, both which, however, they had heard of; but acknowledged they had plantains, bread-fruit, and taro. The only birds we faw, were fome white egg-birds, terns, and noddies ; and one white heron, on the fhore. The language of the inhabitants of Mangeea is adialecT: of that fpoken at Otahcite ; though their pronunciation, as that of the New Zealanders, be more guttural. Some of their words, of which two or three are perhaps peculiar to this iiland, arc here fubjoined, as taken, by Mr. Andcr- fon, from Omai, who had learnt them in his converfations with Mourooa. The Otaheite words, where there is any lefemblance, are placed oppoiite. '777- March, Englifli. Mangeea. Otaheite. A cocoa iiuty Eakkaree, Aree. Bread'fvuit^ Kooroo, Ooroo. A canoe t Ewakkai Evaa. FriemU- Naoo, mou. A mafi, Taata, or Tangata, Taata. Cloth, or cloth plant , Taia, taia aoutee, Eoute.. Good, Mata, Myty.. A clnh, ' Pooroohee. Tcs, Aee, Ai. No, Aoure, A >ure. Afpeai'^ Heyhey. A fights or hat tie t Etamagee, Tamaee. A loomaut Waheine, Waheine. Vol. I. A a ■' 'm ■■'Hi mi '>li n^ 1777. March. A VOYAGE TO EngliOi. Mangeea. Otaheite. A daughter, Maheine, Maheine. The fun. Heetaia matooa. /. Oil, Wou. The JJjorct Euta, Euta. Wtat is that ? Ehataieee ? Owytaiecoa? I'hercy Oo. A chief Ercekcc, Eree. r, . r t { Manna /^<7/j adjunll GreatjOv powerful, i .... I to the laji). To kip, Ooma. The natives of Mangeea feem to refemble thofe of Otaheite and the Marqucfas in the beau'^y of their perfons, more than any other nation I have feen in thc^e feas j having a fmouth Ikin, and not being mufcular. Their general difpolition alfo corrcfponds, as far as we had. opportunities of judging, •with that which diftinguiflies the firft mentioned people. For they are not only cheerful, but, as Mourooa (hewed us, are acquainted with all the lafcivious gefticulations which the Otaheiteans pra(5life in their dances. It may alfo be fup- pofcd, th?i their method of living is fimilar. For, though the nature of the country prevented our feeing many of their habitations, we obfervcd one houfe near the beach, which much refembled, in its mode of conftrudlion, thofe of Otaheite. It was pleafanily fituated in a grove of trees, and appeared to be about thirty feet long, and fevcn or <;ight high, with an open end, which reprcfented an ellipfe divided tranfverfely. Before it, was fpread fomcthing white on a few buflies ; which we coniediired to be a fifliing net, .and, to appearance, of a very delicate texture. 7 * , . - - ■ • They I ' it 'p^ I mm m '^v^ m THE PACIFIC OCEAN. . They falute ftrangers much after the manner of the New Ze Janders, by joining nofes ; adding, however, the addi- tional ceremony of taking the hand of the perfon to whom they are paying civilities, and rubbing it with a degree of force upon their nofe and mouth *. '* The inhabitants of the Palaos, "Nsw Philippine, or rather Caroline Iflands, at the diftancc of almoft fifteen hundred leagues from Mangeea, have the fame mode of falutation. ** Leur civilite, & la marque de leur refpedl, confide a prendre la main " ou le pied de celui a qui ils veulent faire honneur, & s'en frottcr doucement tout " le vifage." Ltttrti EJtjiantes £sf Curituftt^ Tom, xv. p. 208. Edit. 1781. >79 ^777- March. ■•^ ■■<*. *^ A a 2 CHAP. 183 t A. A VOYAGE TO nm i^.,;f' im K77- March. * , Sunday 30. Monday 3 1 April. Tucfilay I. C M A P. II. 7l)C Dlfcovery of an Jfumd called IVatccoo, — Its Coajis exaviined, — Vifits from the Natives on board the Ships, — Mcjf. GorCy Eunieyy and Afidetfon^ 'with Omaiy fern on Shore,— ^Mr. And erf oris Narrative of their Reception. — Omats Expedient to prevent their being de- tained. — His meeting with fome of his Country mm ^ and their difrefsful Voyage, — Farther Account of Watceoo^ and of its Inhabitants, AFTER leaving Mangcea, on the afternoon of 'he 30th, wc continued our courfc Northward all that night, and till noon on the 31ft ; when we again faw land, in the dirccftion of North Latl by North, diftant eight or ten leagues. Next morning, at eight o'clock, wc had got alweafl of its North end, within four leagues of it, but to leeward ; and could now pronounce it to be an ifland, nearly of the fame appearance and extent with that we had fo lately left. At the fame time, another ifland, but much fmallcr, was fcen right ahead. We could liave foon reached this : but the largcft one had the preference, as moll likely io furnifli a fupply of food for the cattle, of which we began to be in great want. With this view I determined to work up to it; but as tliere was but little wind, and that little was unfavourable. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. i8i ' III we were flill two leagues t^ leeward at eight o'clock ihc following morning. Soon after, I lent two armed boats from the Refolution, and one from the Dlfcovcry, under the command of Lieutenant Gore, to look for anchoring- ground, and ? landing place. In the mean time, we plyed up under the ^flund with the fliips. Juil as ihc boats were putting off, wc obferved fevcral fingle canoes coming from the fliore. They went firft to the Difcovery, flie being the neared fliip. It was not long after, when three of thefe canoes came along-fide of the Refolution, each conduced by one man. They are long and narrow, and fupportcd by outriggers. The ftern is elevated about three or four feet, fomething like a fliip's flern-poil. The head is flat above, but prow-like below, and turns down at the extremity, like the end of a violin. Some knives, beads, and other trifles were conveyed to our vi- fitcrs ; and they gave us a few cocoa-nuts, upon our afj^ing for them. But they did not part with them by way of ex- change for v/hat they had received from us. For they feemed to have no idea of bartering ; nor did they appear to eftimate any of our prefents at a high rate. With a little perfualion, one of them made his canoe fafl: to the fliip, and came on board ; and the other two, en- couraged by his example, foon followed him. Their whole behaviour marked that they were quite at their eafe, and felt no fort of apprehenfion of our detaining,, cr ufing them ill. t777- April. I — ,j WcJniT. :, i d^ :ii After their departure, another canoe arrived, condu(^- ed by a man who brought a bunch of plantains as a prefent to me ; afking for me by name, having learnt it from Omai, who was fcnt before us in the boat with Mr. 8 - Gore. IV J'^ 1 82 A ''OYAGE TO Apri!. |)'IHl!l if 'Wi »',^, fi3| Gore. In return for civility, I gave him an axp, and a piece of red cloth , and he paddled back to the fliorc well fatisficd. I afterward iinderllood from Omai, that this prefent had been lent from the king, or principal Chief of the ifland. Not long after, a double canoe, in which were twelve men, came toward us. As they drew near the (hip, they recited feme words in concert, by way of chorus *, one of their number firft Handing up, and giving the word before each repetition. When they had finiflied their folemn chant, they came along-fide, and afked for the Chief. A$ foon as I fliewed myfclf, a pig and a few cocoa-nuts were conveyed up into the (hip ; and the principal perfon in the canoe made me an additional prefent of a piece of mat- ting, as foon as he and his companions got on board. Our vifitcrs were conducflcd into the cabin, and to other parts of the fliip. Some objeds feemed to ftrike them with a degree of furprize ; but nothing fixed their at- tention for a moment. They were afraid to come near the cows and horfcs ; nor did they form the lead concep- tion of their nature. But the (hecp and goats did not fur- pafs the limits of their ideas ; for they gave us to under- (land, that they knew them to be birds. It will appear rather incredible, that human ignorance could ever make fo * Something like this ceremony was performed by the inhabitants of the Marquefas, when Captain Cook vifited them in 1774. Set his Voyage, Vol. i. p. 301. It is curious to obferve, at what immenfe diftanccs this mode of receiving ftrangers pre- vails. Padillo, who failed from Manilla in 1710, on a voyage to difcover the Palaos Iflands, was thus received there. The writer of the relation of his voyage fays, " AulTitor qu'ils approcherent de notrc bord, ils fe mircjit a chanter. lis '* regloiciit la cadence, en frappant des mains fur leurs cuifles." Letttii EdifanUi isf Curieufesy Tom. xv. p. 323. .. ' llrange THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 183 flrange a miftakc; rhcrc not being the moll dillant iimili- tude between a fliccp or goat, and any winged animal. But thcfc people lecmed to know nothing of the exiflencc of any other land-animals, bcfides hogs, dogs, and birds. Our fhcep and goats, they could fee, were very difTerent creatures from the two firft, and therefore they inferred, that they mud belong to the latter clafs, in which they knew there is a confiderable variety of fpecies. I made a prefcnt to my new friend of what I thought might be moll acceptable to him ; but, on his going away, he feemed ra- ther difappointed than pleafed. I afterward underftood that he was very dcfifous of obtaining a dog, of which animal this ifland could not boaft, though its inhabitants knew that the race exilled in other iflands of their ocean. Captain Clerke had received the like prefent, with the fame view, from another man, who met with from him the like difappointment. The people in thefe canoes vere in general of a middling fize, and not unlike thofe of Mangeea ; though feveral were of a blacker caft than any we faw there. Tlieir hair was tied on the crown of the head, or flowing loofe about the flioulders ; and though in fome it was of a frizzling . difpofition, yet, for the moft part, that, as well as the ftraight fort, was long. Their features were various, and ibme of the young men rather hand fome. Like thofe of Mangeea, they had girdles of glazed cloth, or fine matting, the ends of whi( h, being brought betwixt their tliighs, co- vered the adjoining parts. Ornaments, compofed of a ibrt of broad grafs, flained with red, and ftrung with berries of the night-fliade, were worn about theii' necks. Their cars wen bored, but not flit; and they were puniftured upon the legs, from the knee to the heel, which made them ap- «777- /\piil. ^^ U-l «f I'l-I j'i m lil A VOYAGE TO Ai)ril. I ).'■'►■■■ flw •■«*'; Thurfday j. pear as if they wore a kind of boots. They alfo rcfcmbled the inliabitaiits of Mangeca in the length of their beards, and, like tiiem, wore a fort of fandals upon their feet. Their behaviour was frank and cheerful, with a great deal of good- nature. At three o'clock in the afternoon, Mr. Gore returned with the boat, and informed me, that he had examined all the Weft fide of the ifland, without finding a place v.^herc a boat could land, or the fliips could anchor, the fhore being every where bounded by a flecp coral rock, again fl which the fca broke in a dreadful furf. Hut as the natives fcemecl very friendly, and to cxprefs a degree of difappointmcnt when they Hiw that our people failed in their attempts to land, Mr. Gore was of opinion, that by means of Omai, who could bed explain our rcqueft, they might be pre- vailed upon to bring off to the boats, beyond the furf, fucli articles as we moft wanted ; in particular, the flcms of plan- tain trees, which make good food for the cattle. Having little or no wind, the delay of a day or two was not of any moment ; and therefore 1 determined to try the cxpcrimenr, and got every thing ready againft the next morning. Soon after day-break, wc obferved fome canoes coming ofT to the fhips, and one of them direfled its courfe to the Refolution. In it was a hog, with fjmc pUntains and cocoa nuts, for which the people, who brought them, de- manded a dog from us, and refiifed every other thing tliai we offered in exchange. One of our gentlemen on board, happened to have a dog and a bitch, which were greac nuifances in the ihip, and might have been difpofed of on this occafion for a purpofe of real utility, by propagating a race of fo ufeful an animal in this ifland. But their owner had no fuch views, in making tl^m the companions of his ■ voyage. ^u THE PACIFIC OCEAN. voyage. However, to gratify ihcfc people, Omai parted with a favourite dog he had brought horn England ; and with this acquifition they departed highly fatisfied. About ten o'clock, I difpatchcd Mr. Gore with three boats, two from the Refolution, and one from the Difco- very, to try the experiment he hiul propofcd. And, as 1 could confide in his diligence and abilitVi 1 left it entirely to himfelf, to zO: as, from circumftances, he fliould judge to be moft proper. Two of the natives, who had been on board, accompanied him, and Omai went with him in his boat as an interpreter. The fliips being a full league from the ifland when the boats put off, and having but little wind, it was noon before we could work up to it. We thea faw our three boats riding at their grapplings, juft without the furf, and a prodigious number of the natives on the ftiore, abreaft of them. By this we concluded, that Mr. Gore, and others of our people, had landed, and our impa- tience to know the event may be eafily conceived. In order to obferve their motions, and to be ready to give them fuch afliftance as they might want, and our refpecflive fituations would admit of, I kept as near the fliore as was prudent. I was fenfible, however, that the reef was as efre(5tual a barrier between us and our friends who had landed, and put them as much beyond the reach of our protecflion, as if half the circumference of the globe had intervened. But the iflanders, it was probable, did not know this fo well as we did. Some of them, now and then, came off to the Ihips in their canoes, with a few cocoa nuts ; which they exchanged for whatever was offered to them, without feeming to give the preference to any particular article. Thcfc occafional vifits fcrvcd to lefTen my folicitudc about our people who had landed. Though we could get no in- VoL. I. • B b formation Ids April. I I ., ;-! rm t8f> A VOYAGE TO .»777- March. I ::l fyf}. formation from ourvifitcrs; yet their vcntuiing on boartl fecmcd to imply, at lead, that their countrymen on lliore had not made an improper ufe of the confidence put in them. At length, a little before fun-fet, we had the fatisfac- tion of feeing the boats put off. When they got on board, I found that Mr. Gore himfelf, Omai, Mr. Anderfon, and Mr. Burney, were the only perfons who had landed. The tranfadlions of the day were now fully reported to me by Mr. Gore ; but Mr. Anderfon's account of them being very particular, and including fome remarks on the ifland and its inhabitants, I fliall |.'ive it a place here, nearly in his own words. . • - " We rowed toward a fmall iandy beach, upon which> and upon the adjacent rocks, a great number of the natives had alTembled ; and came to an anchor within a hundred yards of the reef, which extends about as far, or a little farther, from the fhore. Several of the natives fvvam ofr', bringing cocoa nuts ; and Omai, with their countrymen, whom we had with us in the boats, made them fcnfiblc of our wifli to land. But their attention wa? taken up, for a little time, by the dog, which had been carried from the Ihip, and was juft brought on Ihore, round whom they flocked with great eagcrnefs. Soon after, two canoes came ofF; and, to create a greater confidence in the iflanders, we determined to go unarmed, and run the hazard of being treated well or ill. Mr. Burney, the firft Lieutenant of the Difcovery, and I, went in one canoe, a little time before the other; andour con- dudlors, watching attentively the mocions of the furf, land( d us fafely upon the reef. An illander took hold of each of us, obvioufly with an intention to f't^-port us in walking, 7 over ■■« THE PACIFIC OCEAN. over the nigged rocks, to the beach, where fcveral of the others met us, holding the green boughs, of a fpccies of Mimofa, in their hands, and faluted us by applying their nofes to ours. We were condutfled from the beach by our guides, amidft a great crowd of people, who flocked wiih very eager curiofity to look at us j and would have prevented our proceeding, had not fome men, who feemed to have au- thority, dealt blows, with little diftindtion, Lmongft them, to keep them off. We were then led up an avenue of cocoa- palms ; and foon came to a number of men, arranged in two rows, armed with clubs, which they held on their llioulders, much in the manner we reft a mufquet. After walking a little way amongft thefe, we found a perfon who feemed a Chief, fiiting on the ground crofs-legged, cooling himfelf with a fort of triangular fan, made from a leaf of the cocoa-palm, with a poliflied handle, of black wood, fixed to one corner. In his ears were large bunches of beautiful red feathers, which pointed forward. But he had no other mark, or ornament, to diftinguilh him from the reft of the people ; though rhey all obeyed him with the greateft alacrity. He either naturally had, or at this time put on, a ferious, but not fevere countenance ; and we were defired to falute him as he fat, '^y fome people who feemed of confequence. We proceeded ftill amongft ihe men armed with clubs, and came to a fecond Chief, who fat fanning himfelf, and ornamented as the firft. He was remarkable for his fizc, and uncommon corpulence, though, to appearance, not above thirty years of age. In the fame manner, we were condud;ed to a third Chief, who feemed older than the two -" ' ^ B b 2 former. 187 '777- April. m ii m i88 1777- Apnl* ^liii It 4 . :4 f.-' .n tm I AVOYAGETO former, and, though not fo fat as the fecond, was of a large fize. He alfo was fitting, and adorned with red feathers ; and after fainting him as we had done the others, he defired us both to fit down. Which we were very willing to do, being pretty well fatigued with walking up, and with the exceffive heat we felt amongft the vaft crowd that fur- rounded us. In a few minutes, the people were ordered to feparate ; and we faw, at the diftance of thirty yards, about twenty young women, ornamented as the Chiefs, with red fea- thers, engaged in a dance, which they performed to a flow and ferious air, fung by them all. We got up, and went forward to fee them; and though we muft have been flrange objefts to them, they continued their dance, with- out paying the lead attention to us. They feemed to be direcfted by a man who ferved as a prompter, and mentioned each motion they were to make. But they never changed the fpot, as we do in dancing, and though their feet were not at reft, this exercife confifted more in moving the fingers very nimbly, at the fame time holding the hands in a prone pofition near the face, and now and then aJfo clapping them together*. Their motions and fong were pf^rformed in fuch exa.(St concert, that it fliould feem they had been taught with great care j and probably they were fele(5led for this ceremony, as few of thofe whom we faw in the crowd equalled them in beauty. In general, they were rather flout than flendcr, with black hair flowing in ringlets down the neck, and of an olive complexion. Their features were, * The dances of the inhabitants of the Caroline Iflands, have a great refemblance to thofe here defcribcd. See Lettres Eti!/. et Curieufes, Tom. xv. p. 315. See alfo, in the fame volume, p. 207. what is faid of the finging and dancing of the inhabitants cf the Palaos Iflands, which belong to the fame group, lather. •n THE PACIFIC OCEAN. rather, fuller than what we allow to perfed beauties, and much alike ; but their eyes were of a deep black, and each countenance exprelFed a degree of complacency and mo- defty, peculiar to the fex in every part of the world ; but perhaps more confpicuous here, where Nature prefented us with her produ<5lions in the fulleft perfedlion, unbiafled in fentiment by cuftom, or unreftrained in manner by art. Their fliape and limbs were elegantly formed. For, as their drefs confided only of a piece of glazed cloth faftened about the waift, and fcarcely reaching fo low as the knees, in many we had an opportunity of obferving every part. This dance was not finiftied, when we beard a noife, as if fome horfes had been galloping toward us ; and, on looking afide, we faw the people armed with clubs, who had been defired, as we fuppofed, to entertain us with the fight of their manner of fighting. This they now did, one party purfuing another who fled. As we fuppofed the ceremony of being introduced to the Chiefs was at an end, we began to look about for Mr. Gore and Omai; and, though the crowd would hardly fufFer us to move, we at length found them coming up, as much in- commoded by the number of people as we had been, and introduced in the fame manner to the three Chiefs, whofe names were Otteroo, Taroa, and Fatouweera. Each of thefe expected a prefent; and xMr. Gore gave them fuch things as he had brought with him from the fliip, for that purpofe. After this, making ufe of Omai as '.Is inter- preter, he informed the Chiefs with what intention we had come on fliore ; but was given to underftand, that he mufl: wait till the next day, and then he (hould have what wa^ wanted. . i3g[ >777. April. ^ Ui * They •i!;r. 19(5 A VOYAGE TO '777- April \i »'- ; (V-, i;HHi«' Tliey now feemcd to takefome pains to fcparate us from each other ; and every one of us had his circle, to furround and gaze at him. For my own part, I was, at one time, above an hour apart from my friends; and when I told the Chief, with wnom I fat, that I wanted to fpeak to Omai, he perempto- rily refufed my requeft. At the fame time, I found the people began to (leal fcveral trifling things which I had in my pocket J and when I took the liberty of complaining to the Chief of this treatment, he juftified it. From thefe cir- cumflances, I now entertained apprehenfions, that they might have formed the defign of detaining us amongft them. They did not, indeed, fcem to be of a difpofition fo favage, as to make us anxious for the fafety of our perfons ; but it was, neverthelefs, vexing to think, we had hazarded being detained by their curiofity. In this fituation, I afked for fomething to eat; and they readily brought to me fome cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and a fort of four pudding, which was prefented by a woman. And on my complaining much of the heat, occafioned by the crowd, the Chief himfelf con- defcendcd to fan me, and gave me a fmall piece of cloth, which he had round his waift. Mr. Burney happening to come to the place where I was, I mentioned my fufpicions to him; and, to put it to the teft, whether they were well-founded, we attempted to get tp the beach. But wc were (lopped, when abou half-way, by fome men, who told us, that we mufl go back to the place which we had left. On coming up, wc found Omai entertaining the fame apprehenfions. But he had, as he fancied, an additional realbn for being afraid ; for he had obfcrvcd, that they had dug a hole in the ground for an oven, which they were now heating; and he could aflignno other realbn for this, than that they meant to road, and eat us, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. tis, as is praftifcd by the inliabitants of New Zealand. Nay, he went fo far as to afk them the qucftion ; at which they v/ere greatly furprifed, afking, in return, whether that was a cullom with us? Mr. Burney and I were rather angry that they fhould be thus fiifpccTied by him ; there having, as yet, been no appearances, in their condudl toward us, of their being capable of fuch brutality. In this manner wc were detained the greateft part of the day, being fometimes together, and fometimes fcparated ; but always in a crowd j who, not fatisfied with gazing at us, frequently defired us to uncover parts of our fkin * he light of which commonly produced a general murmur of admiration. At the fame time, they did not omit thefe op- portunities of rifling our pockets ; and, at lafl, one of them fnatched a fmall bayonet from Mr. Gore, which hung in its flieath by his fide. This was reprefented to the Chief, who pretended to fend fomc perfon in fearch of it. Bur, in all probability, he counienanced the theft ; for, foon after, Omai had a dagger ftoien from his fide, in the fame manner; though he did not mifs it immediately. Whether they obferved any figns of uneafinefs in us, or that they voluntarily repeated their emblems of friendfliip when we exprefied a defire to go, I cannot tell; but, at this time, they brought fome green boughs, and, flicking their ends in the ground, defired we might hold them as we fat. Upon our urging again the bufinefs we came upon, they gave us to underftand, that vv^c mud flay and p-^.f- with them; and a pig which we faw, foon after, lying near the oven, which they had prepared and heated, removed Omai's apprehenfion of being put into it himfclf ; and made us think it might be intended for our repufl. The Chief pARi promifed ipi Apr! u. *: iga mi 1777' April AVOYAGETO promifed to fend fome people to procure food for the cattle; but it was not till pretty late in the afrernoon, that \vc faw them return with a few plantain-trees, which they carried to oui boats. . In the mean time, Mr. Burney and I attempted again to go to the beach ; but when we arrived, found ourfelvcs watched by people, who, to appearance, had been placed there for this purpofe. For when I iried to wade in upon the reef, one of them took hold of my clothes, and dragged me back. I picked up fome fmall pieces of coral, which they required me to thiow down again ; and, on my refu- fal, they made no fcruple to take them forcibly from me. I had gathered fome fmall plants ; but thefe alfo I could not be permitted to retain. And they took a fan from Mr. Burney, which he had received as a prefent on coming alhore. Omai faid, we had done wrong in taking up any thing ; for it was not the cuftom here to permit freedoms of that kind to flrangers, till they had, in fome meafure, na- turalized them to the country, by entertaining them with feflivity for two or three days. Finding that the only method of procuring better treat- ment was to yield implicit obedience to their will, we went lip again to the place we had left ; and they now promifed, that we fliould have a canoe to carry us off to our boats, after we had eaten of a repaft which had been prepared for us. • Accordingly, the fecond Chief, to whom we had been in- troduced in the morning, having featcd himfelf upon a low broad ftool of blackifh hard wood, tolerably polifhed, and dircding the multitude to make a pretty large ring, made us fit down by him. A confiderablc number of cocoa-nuts 9 > • were * -ni THE PACIFIC OCEAN. were now brought; and, fliortly after, a long green baikct, with a fufficient quantity of baked plantains to have ferved a dozen perfons. A piece of th<: young hog, that had been drefTed, was then fet before each of us, of which we were defired to eat. Our appetites, however, had failed, from the fatigue of the day ; and though we did eat a little to pleafe them, it was without fatisfacTdon to ourfelves. It being now near fun-fet, we told them it was time to go on board. This they allowed j and fent down to the beach the remainder of the viduals that had been drefled, to be carried with us to the fliips. But, before wc fet out, Omai was treated with a drink he had been ufed to in his own country ; which, we obferved, was made here, as at other iflands in the South Sea, by chewing the root of a fort of pepper. We found a canoe ready to put us off to our boats; which the natives did, with the fame caution as when wc landed. But, even here, their thievifli difpofuion did not leave them. For a perfon of fome confcquencc among them, who came\vith us, took an opportunuy, juft as they were pufhing the canoe into the furf, to fnatch a bag out of her, which I had, with the greatefl: difficulty, preferved all the day; there being in it a fmall pocket-piftol, which I was unwilling to part with. Perceiving him, I called our, expreff- ing as much difpleafure as I could. On which he thought proper to return, and fwim with the bag to the canoe ; but de- nied he had ftolen it, though deteded in the very acH:. They put us on board our boats, with the cocoa-nuts, plantains, and other provifions, which they had brought ; and we rowed to the fhips, very well pleafed that we had at laft got out of the hands of our troublefome mailers. '777. April. il'^'li 4 Vol. I. C-c We l^4f 1 III 1 |M| i iii m^:'< >777' April. - y ' A V O Y A G E T O '• r Wc regretted much, that our rcftraincd fituation gave us fo little opportunity of making obfervations on the country. For, (luring the whole day, we were feldom a hundred yards from the place where we were introduced to the Ciiicl-s on landing; and, confequently, were confined to the furrounding object:?. The firfl thing that prefented itfelF» worthy of our notice, was the number of people; which mud have been, at leaft, two thoufand. For thofe who welcomed us on the fhore, bore no proportion to the muhitudc we found amongft the trees, on proceeding a little way up. We could alfo obferve, that, except a few, thofe we^had hitherto feen on board, were of the lower clafs. For a great number of thofe we now met with, had a fuperior dignity in their air, and were of a much whiter caft. In general, they had the hair tied on the crown of the head, long, black, and of a mod luxuriant growth. Many of the young men were perfect models in fliape, of a complexion as delicate as that of the women, and, to appearance, of a difpofition as amiable. Others, who were more advanced in years, were corpulent ; and all had a remarkable fmoothnefs of the flcin. Their general drefs was a piece of cloth, or mat, wrapped about the waifl, and covering the parts which mo- dcdy conceals. But fome had pieces of mats, moft curi- oufly varied with black and white, made into a fort of jacket without fleevcs ; and others wore conical caps of co- coa-nut core, neatly interwoven with fmall beads, made of a flicUy fubflance. Their ears were pierced ; and in them they hung bits of the membraneous part of fome plant, or {luck there an odoriferous flower, which feemed to be a fpecies o^ gardenia. Some, who were of a fuperior clafs, and alfo the Chiefs, had two little balls, with a common bafe, m-Tde .*'■?' THE PACIFIC O C E A N. made from the bone o( fomc animal, which was hung round the neck, with a great many folds of finall cord. And after the ceremony of introdudlion to the Chiefs was over, tlicy then appeared witliout their red feathers ; which arc certainly confidercd here as a particular mark of dif- tiniflion ; for none but themfelvcs, and the young womcu who danced, afl'umcd them. Some of the men were nuncflured all over the fides and back, in an uncommon manner ; and fome of the women had the fame ornament on their legs. But this method was confined to ihofc who feemed to be of a fuperior rank ; and the men, in that cafe, were alfo generally diftinguiftied by their fize and corpulence, unlefs very young. The women of an advanced age had their hair cropped fliort ; and many were cut, in oblique lines, all over the fore- part of the body; and fome of the wounds, which formed rhomboidal figures, had been fo lately inflidted, that the coagulated blood flill remained in them. The wife of one of the Chiefs appeared with her child, laid in a piece of red cloth, which had been prefcnied to her hufband ; and feemed to carry it with great tendernefs, fuck- ling it much after the manner of our women. Another Chief introduced his daughter, who was young and beauti- fJLil ; but appeared with all the timidity natural to the fex ; though flic gazed on us with a kind of anxious concern, that feemed to llruggle with her fear, and to exprefs her ailoniflmient at fo unufual a fight. Others advanced with more firmnefs, and, indeed, were lefs referved than we ex- pcded ; but behaved with a becoming modefly. We did not obfcrve any perfonai deformities amongft cither fex; except in a few who had fears of broad fuperficial ulcers, C c 2 remaining 193 '777- April. m y-^ iqG April. A VOYAGE TO remaiiiinp; on the face and other parts. In propoition tt> the number of people allcmbled, tlicre appeared not many old men or women; which may calily be accounted for, by fuppofing that luch as were in an advanced period of life, might neither have the inclination, nor the ability, to come from the more dillant parts of the ifland. On the other hand, the children were numerous; and both thcfe, and the men, climbed the trees to look at us, when we were hid by the furrounding crowd. About a third part of the men were armed witli clubs and fpeai 3 ; and, probably, thcfe were only the perfons who had come from a dillance, as many of them liad fmall baf- kets, mats, and other things, faftened to the ends of their weapons. The clubs were generally about fix feet long-, made of a hard black wood, lance fliaped at the end, but much broader, with the edge nicely fcolloped, and the whole neatly poliflied. Others of them were narrower at the point, much fhorter, and plain ; and fome were even fo fmall, as to b^ ufed with one hand. The fpears were made of the fame wood, fimply pointed; and, in general, abjvc twelve feet long; though fome were fo fliort, that they feemed intended to be thrown as darts. The place where we were all the day, was under the fliade of vanous trees ; in which they preferved their canoes from the fun. About eight or ten of them were here, all double ones ; that is, two fingle ones faftened toge- ther (as is ufual, throughout the whole extent of the Pacific Ocean), by rafters lafhed acrofs. They were about twenty feet long, about four f<;et deep, and the fides rounded with a plank raifed upon them, which was faftened ftrongly by means of withes. Two of tlicfc canoes vfcve moft curioufly ftained. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. '97 ftaincd, or painted, all over with black, in numbcrlcfs finall figures } as fcjuarcs, triangles, &c. and excelled, by far, any thing of that kind I had ever fccn at any other illand in this ocean. Our friends here, indeed, fccmed to have ex- erted more (kill in doing this, than in pun(5luring their own bodies. The paddles were about four feet long, nearly ellip- tical ; but broader at the upper end than the middle. Near the fame place was a hut or Ihed, about tliirty feet lon^r, and nine or ten high ; in which, perliapo, tliefc boats arc built J but, at this time, it was empty. The greatefl numbei of the trees around us were coco.7-p,ihs; fome foi'is of hibifcus', a fpecics of enphorbia i and, toward the fea, abundance of the fame kind of trees we had fccn at Mangeca Nooe Nainaiwa ; and which fecmed to furround the fliorcs of this ifland in the fume manner. They are tall and flender, not much unlike a cyprefs; but with bunches of long, round, articulated leaves. The natives call tlieni etoa. On the ground we faw fome grafs; a fpccies of con- volvulus J and a good deal oi trcack-mujlard. There are alfo, doubtlefs, other fruit-trees and ufeful plants which we did not fee. For, befides feveral forts of plantains, they brought, at different times, roots which they call taro (the coccos of other countries) j z bread-fruit ; and a bafkct of roafted nuts, of a kidney-fhape, in tafle like a chefnut, but coarfer. What the foil of the ifland may be, farther inland, we could not tell. But, toward the fea, it is nothing more than a bank of coral, ten or twelve feet high, fleep, and rugged ; except where there are fmall fandy beaches, at fome clefts where the afcent is gradual. The coral, though it has, probably, been expofed to the weather for many centuries, has undergone no farther change than becom* 17:7. Ajiril. m '■^i mi t,i ■ • And. 199 •'77. April. tBWI (, , • k ' ■««1 i-- r* - 'I ' il I 1^ ■ H 2C0 ^iiii)« ''. •'If i ! I .f B' '■ • 7r7' April. A V O Y A G E T O And as we flood in nearer the land in the evening/, than we had done any time before, of which pofition of the ihips they were obfcrved to take great notice, ihey, pro- bably, thought we were meditating this formidable attack; and, therefore, fuiFered their guefts to depart ; under the expeiftation, however, of feeing them again on (horc next morning. But I was too fenfible of the rifk they had al- ready run, to think of a repetition of the experiment. This day, it feems, was deftined to give Ornai more oc- cafions than one, of being brought forward to bear a prin- cipal part in its tranfacTiions. The ifland, though never before vifited by Europeans, adlually happened to have other ftrangers refiding in it ; and it was entirely owing to Oraai's being one of Mr. Gore's attendants, that this cu- rious circumftance came to our knowledge. - Scarcely had he been landed upon the beach, when he found, amongft the crowd there aircmbled, three of his own countrymen, natives of the Society Illands. At the dillance of about two hundred leagues from thofe iflands, an im- menfe, unknown pecan intervening, with fuch wretched fea-boats as their inhabitants arv*^ Known to make ufe of, and fit only for a pafTage where fight of land is fcarcely ever loft, fuch a meeting, at fuch a place, fo accidentally vifited by us, may well be looked upon as one of thofe un- expe(5lcd fituations, with which the writers of feigned ad- ventures love to furprife their readers, and which, when they really happen in common life, dcferve to be recorded for their fingularity. It may eafily be guefTed, with what mutual furprife and fatisfadion Omai and his countrymen engaged in conver- fation. Their ftory, as related by them, is an afFe<5ting one. About ' * -ft THE PACIFIC OCEAN. About twenty perfons in number, of both fcxes, had em- barked on board a c;inoe at Otahcitc, to crofs over to the neighbouring ifland UHetea. A violent contrary wind ari- fmg, they could neither reach the latter, nor get back to the former. Their intended pafFagc being a very fliort one, their ilock of provifions was fcanty, and foon exhaufled. The hardfhips they fufTered, while driven along by the ilorm, they knew not whither, are not to be conceived. They paflcd many days without having any thing to eat or drink. Their numbers gradually diminiflied, worn out by famine and fatigue. Four men only furvived, when the canoe overfet; and then the perdition of this fmall rem- nant feemed inevitable. However, they kept hanging by the fide of their veflel, during fome of the lad days, till Providence brought them in fight of the people of this ifland, who immediately fent out canoes, took them off their wreck, and brought them afliore. Of the four who were thus faved, one was fince dead. The other three, who lived to have this opportunity of giving an account of their almoft miraculous tranfplantation, fpoke highly of the kind treatment they here met with And {o well fa- tisfied were they with their Ctuation, that they refufed the offer made to them by our gentlemen, at Cmai's requeft, of giving them a paffuge on board our fliips, to reftore them to their native iflands. The fimilarity of manners and lan- guage, had more than naturalized them to this fpot ; and the frefli connexions which they had here formed, and which it would have been painful to have broken off, after fuch a length of time, fulHcicnrly account for iheir de- clining to revifit the places of their birtli. They had ar- rived upon this ifhind at lead twelve years ago. For I learnt from Nh'. Anderfon, that he found they knew no- VoL. I. D d thing :oi '777 April '"'1 m ii ' lit -r . at Uhetea ; and the third at Huahcine. The landing of our gentlemen on this iilrandj though they failed in the object of it, cannot but be coniidered as- a very fortunate circumftance. It has proved, as we have feen, the means of bringing to our knowledge a matter of facft, not only very curious, but very inftru<5live. The ap- plication of the above narrative is obvious. It will ferve t'> explain, better than a thoufand conjeiflures of fpeculative reafgners, how the detached parts of the earth, and, in particular, how the iflands of the South Sea, may have been firft peopled; efpecially thofe that lie remote from any inhabited continent, or from each other*. * Such accidents as this here related, probably haj^en frequently in the Pacific- Ocean. In 1696, two canoes, having on board thirty perfons of both fexes, were driven, by contrary winds and. tempeAuous weather^ on the ifle. of Samal, one of the Philippines, after being toft about at fea feventy days, and having performed a voyage,, from an ifland called by them Amorfot, 300 leagues to the Eaft of Samal. Five of. the number who had embarked, died of the hardships fufiered during this extraordinary palTage. See a particular recount of them, and of the iflands they belonged to, in Lettres Edtfiantts (Jl Curieujisy Tom. xv. from p. 196. 10 p. 215. In the fame Volume,, from p. 282. to p. 320. we have the relation of a fimilar adventure, in 1721, when two canoes, one containing twenty-four, and the other fix perfons, men, women, and- children, were driven, from an ifland they called Farroilep, Northward to the ifle of Guam, or Guahan, one of the Ladrones or Mariannes. Butthefe had not failed fo far as their countrymen, who reached Samal as above, and they had been at fea only twenty days. There fcems to be no reafon to doubt the general authenticity of thefa two relations. The information contained in the letters of the Jefuits, about thefe iilanJs, now known under the name of the Carolines, and difcovered to the Spaniards by the arrival of the canoes at Samal and Guam, has been adopted by all our later writers. See Prefident de Broflc's Voyages aux Terres Aujiratts^ Tom. ii. fronv. p. 443. to p. 490. See alfo the Modtrn Univtrfal Hijlorjs This M THE PACinC OCEAN. 803 This ifland is called Wateeoo by the natives. It lies in the latitude of 20° i' South, and in the long'tudc soi''43' Eaft, and is about fix leagues in circumference. It is a beautiful fpot. with a furface compofed of hills and plains, and covered with verdure of many hues. Our gentlemen found the foil, where they pafled the day, to be light and fandy. But farther up the country, a different fort, per- haps, prevails; as we faw from the fhip, by the help of our glafles, a reddilh caft upon the rifing grounds. There the inhabitants have their houfes ; for we could perceive two or three, which were long and fpacious. Its produce, with the addition of hogs, we found to be the fame as at the lad illand we had vifited, which the people of this, to whom we pointed out its pofition, called Owhavarouah ; a name fo different from Mangeea Nooe Nainaiwa, which wc learnt from its own inhabitants, that it is highly probable Owhavarouah is another ifland. ■ From the circumftances already mentioned, it appears, that Wateeoo can be of little ufe to any (hip that wants re- frefliment, unlefs in a cafe of the mod abfolutc neceility. The natives, knowing now the value of fome of our com- modities, might be induced to bring off fruits and hogs, to u ihip Handing off and on, or to boats lying off the reef, as ■ours did. It is doubtful, however, if any frcfh water could be procured. For, though fome was brought, in cocoa nut (hells, to the gentlemen, they were told, that it was at a ■confiderable diftance ; and, probably, it is only to be met with in fome (lagnant pool, as no running ili^am was any where feen. According to Omai's report of what he learnt in conver- fation with his three countrymen, the manners of thefe D d 2 iilanders, »777- April. 4 , :#fi*t'J . 'm ■ I'll 204 A VOYAGE TO «777« April. ' 4, iflanders, their method of treating ftrangers, and their ge- neral habits of life, are much like thofe that prevail at Otaheite, and its neighbouring iiles. Their religious cere- monies and opinions are alfo nearly the fame. For, upon feeing one man, who was painted all over of a deep black colour, and inquiring the reafon, our gentlemen were told, that he had lately been paying the laft good offices to a de- ceafed friend; and they found, that it was upon fimilar occafions, the women cut themfelves, as already mentioned. From every circumftance, indeed, it is indubitable, that the natives of Wateeoo fprung, originally, from the fame (lock, which hath fpread itfelf fo wonderfully all over the im- menfe extent of the South Sea. One would fuppofe, how- ever, that they put in their claim to a more illuftrious ex- traction ; for Omai aiTured us, that they dignified their ifland with the appellation of Wenooa no te Eatooa^ that is, A land of gods ; efleeming themfelves a fort of divinities, and pofTefTed with the fpirit of the Eatooa. This wild en- thufiaftic notion Omai feemed much to approve of, telling us thee were inftances of its being entertained at Otaheite; but that it was univerfally prevalent amongft the inhabit- ants of Mataia, or Ofnaburg Ifland. The language fpoken at Wateeoo was equally well un- derftood by Omai, and by our two New Zealanders. What its peculiarities may be, when compared with the other dialects, I am not able to point out ; for, though Mr. An- derfon had taken care to note down a fpccimen of it, the natives, who made no didincThion of the objcd:s of their theft, dole the memorandum book. C H A P. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 205 . CHAP. III. Wemoa-ette^ or Otakootaia^ vijtted. — Account of that IJlandy and of its Produce* — Herveys IJland^ or Te- rougge mou Attooa^ found to be inhabited, — Tranfac- tions with the Natives, — Their PerfonSy Drejsy Lan- guage^ Games, -^ Fruitlefs Attempt to land there. — Rea- fom for hearing away fr the Friendly Ifands. — Pal- mer flons IJland touched at, — Defcripticn of the two Places where (he Boats landed. — Refefhments obtained there. — Conjetlures on the Formation ofjuch low Iflands^ — Arrival at the Friendly Iflandu LIGiIT airs and calms having prevailed, by turns, all the night of the 3d, the Eafterlv f^veli had carried the fiiips fon.e diftance from Wateeoo, before day-break. But Friday 4. as I had failed in my objecT: of procuring, at that place* • fome effecftual fupply, I favv no reafon for flaying there any longer. I, therefore, quirted it, without regret, and fleered for the neighbouring ifland, which, as has been mentioned, we difcovered three days before. With a gentle breeze at Eafl, we got up with ir, before ' ten o'clock in the morning, and I immediately difpatched Mr. Gore, with two boats, to endeavour to land, and get *bme food for our cattle. As there feemed to be no inhabit- ants here to obftru(5t our taking away whatever we might think proper, I was confident of his being able to make amends for our late difappointment, if the landing could I be 1777. April. ,.»', !ii'^ M ■'.1: do6 4 VOYAGE TO »777. April. II: s i: iXit IJu I be effeSted. There was a reef here furrounding the land, as at Watecoo, and a confiderable furf breaking againft the rocks. Notwithftanding which, our boats no fooner reached the lee, or "Weft fide of the ifland, but they ventured in, and Mr. Gore and his party got fafe on fliore. I could, from the fhip, fee that they had fucceeded fo far ; and I immedi- ately fent a fmall boat to know what farther afliftance was wanting. She did not return till three o'clock in the after- noon, having waited to take in a lading of what ufeful produce the iiland afforded. As foon as fhe was cleared, flie was fen. again for another cargo ; the Jolly boat was alfo difpatched, and Mr. Gore was ordered to be on tx>ard, with all the boats, before night; which was cpm- plied with. The fupply obtained here, confifted of about a hundred cocoa nuts for each fhip j and befides this refrefliment for ourfelves, we got for our cattle fome grafs, and a quantity of the leaves and branches of young cocoa trees, and of the wharra tree, as it is called at Otaheite, the pandanus of the Eaft Indies. This latter being of a foft, fpungy, juicy nature, the cattle eat it very well, when cut into fmall pieces j fo that it might be faid, without any deviation from truth, that we fed them upon billet wood. This ifland lies in the latitude of 19* 15' South, and the longitude of 201" 37' Eaft, about three or four leagues from Wateeoo, the inhabitants of which called ir Otakootiia ; and fometimes they fpoke of it under the appellation of Wenooa- ^ttcy which fignifies little ifland. Mr. Anderfon, who was on fhore with our party, and walked round it, guefled that it could not be much more than three miles in circuit. From him I alfo learned the following particulars. The » beach, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. beach, within the reef, is compofed of a white coral fand ; above which, the land within does not riiie above fix or feven feet, and is covered with a light reddilh foil; but is entirely deftitute of water. The only common trees found there were cocoa-palms, of which there were feveral cluilers ; and vaft numbers of the ivkarra. There were, like wife, the caUophyllum, furianat guettarda, afpecies of tournefortia, and tahrmt montan(ft with a few other (hrubs ; and fome of the etoa tree feen at Wateeoo. A fort of bindweed over-ran the vacant fpaces ; except in fome places, where was found a confiderable quantity of treacte-muftdrd, a fpecies of fpttrge^ with a few other I'mall plants, and the morinda citrifolia ; the fruit of which is eaten by the natives of Otaheite in times of fcarcity. Omai, who had landed with the party, drefTed fome of it for their din- ner ; but it proved very indiflferent. The only bird feen amongft the trees, was a beautiful cuckoo, of a chefnut brown, variegated with black, which was fliot. Biit, upon th j fliore, were fome egg-birds ; a fmall fort of curlew ; blue and white herons ; and great numbers of noddies; which laft, at this time, laid their eggs, a little farther up, on the ground,, and often refted on the •wharra tree. One of our people caught a lizard, of a moft forbidding afpedt, though fmall, running up a tree j and many, of an- other fort, were feen. The bufhes toward the fea, were frequented by infinite numbers of a fort of moth, elegantly fpeckled with red, black, and white. There were alfo fe- veral other forts of moths, as well as fome pretty butter- flies ; and a few other infeds. . TJiough 307 April.. r yM Jii m 'I'm i ■ ■ -n 13. : I: ao'? A VOYAGE TO '777- April. •Cundnv 6. Though there were, at this time, no fixed inhabitants upon the ifland, indubitable marks remained of its being, at leaft, occafionally frequented. In particular, a few empty huts were found. There were alfo feveral large ftones crecfted, like monuments, under the fhade of fome trees ; and feveral fpaces inclofed with fmaller ones; where, pro- bably, the dead had been buried. And, in one place, a great many cockle-fliells, of a particular fort, finely groov- ed, and larger than the fill, were to be feen ; from whicli it was reafonable to conjetflure, that the ifland had been vifited by perfons who feed, partly, on fliell-fifli. In one of the huts, Mr. Gore left a hatchet, and fome nails, to the full value of what we took away. . ., . , As foon as the boats were hoiflcd in, I made fail again to the northward, with a light air of wind Eaflerly ; intend- ing to try our fortune at Hervey's Ifland, which was difco- vcred in 1773, during my lad voyage*. Altliough it was not above fifteen leagues diftant, yet we did not get fight of it till day-break in the morning of the 6th, when it bore Wcrt^ South Weft, at the diftance of about three league;. As we drew near it, at eight o'clock, we obfervcd feveral canoes put ofT from the fliore ; and they came diredlly to- ward the fliips. This was a fight that, indeed, furprizcd me, as no figns of inhabitants were fcen when the ifland was firfl difcovered ; which might be owing to a pretty brifl-: wind that then blew, and prevented their canoes ven- turing out, as the fliips pafll'd to leeward ; whereas now we were to windward. • See Captain Cook's Vojrge, Vol. i. p. 150. where this ifliind is faid to be about ilx leagues in circuic. ' ' ■ • ' ' ,i',v '.; :'^',"' *■ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ' As we ftill kept on toward the ifland, fix or feven of the canoes, all double ones, foon came near us. There were, from three to fix men, in each of them. They (lopped at the diftance of about a Hone's throw from the fhip ; and it was fome time before Omai could prevail upon them to come along-fide ; but no intreaties could induce any of them to venture on board. Indeed their diforderly and cla- morous behaviour, by no means indicated a difpofition to truft us, or treat us well. W" afterward learnt that they had attempted to take fome oars out of the Difcovery's boat, that lay albng-fide, and ftruck a man who endeavoured to prevent them. They alfo cut away, with a fliell, a net with meat, which hung over that Ihip's ftern, and abfo- lutely refufcd to reftore it ; though we, afterward, pur- chafed it from them. Thofe who were about our fhip, be- haved in the fame daring manner ; for they made a fort of hook, of a long flick, with which they endeavoured, open- ly, to rob us of feveral things ; and, at lafl, actually got a frock belonging to one of our people, that was towing over-board. At the fame time, they immediately fliewed a knowledge of bartering, and fold fome fifli they had (amongfl: which was an extraordinary flounder, fpotted like porphyry; and a cream-coloured eel, fpotted with black), for fmall nails, of which they were immoderately fond, and called them goore. Rut, indeed, they caught, with the greatefl avidity, bits of paper, or any thing elfe that was thrown to them; and if what was thrown fell into the fea, they made no fcruple to fwim after it. Thefe people feemed to differ as much in pcrfon, as in difpofition, from the natives of Wateeoo ; though the dif- tance between the two idands is not v^-y great. Their co- lour was of a deeper caft ; and feveral had a fierce, rugged Vol. I. V ^^ afpeft. 209 '777- April, i« I til .|:. I 1 :>**■■ .1 ( ki '' BrinM .a ' 4&n f.» •'''^''Sl ■A 'jifflH ^f'llW '' t< ^i^hHI '!*f';,-.'HiHl ^ '^'-H 210 A VOYAGE TO April. iiii lIii»i'*'C,'».;'' (ir: 1 ;, afpcft, refemblinij the natives of New Zealand ; but fome A^ere fairer. They had llrong black hair, which, in general, they wore either hanging loolc about the fliouldets, or tied in a bunch on the crown of the head. Some, however, had il cropped pretty fliort ; and, in tv^ro or three of them, it was of a brown, or reddifh colour. Their only covering was a narrow piece of mat, wrapt feveral times round the lower part of the body, and which palTed between the thighs ; but a fine cap of red feathers was feen lying in one of the canoes. The (hell of a pearl-oyfter polifhed, and hung about the neck, was the only ornamental fafliion that •we obferved amongft them ; for not one of them had adopted that mode of ornament, fo generally prevalent amongft the natives of this Ocean, of pun(5luring, ovjatooing their bodies. Though Angular in this, we had the mod unequivocal proofs of their being of the fame common race. Their language approached flill nearer to the dialed of Otaheite, than that of Wateeoo, or Mangeea. Like the inhabitants of thefe two iflands, they inquired from whence our fliips came ; and whither bound ; who was our Chief; the num- ber of our men on board ; and even the lliip's name. And they very readily anfwered fuch queftions as we propofcd to them. Amongft other things, they told us, they had feen two great fhips, like ours, before ; but that they had not fpoken with them as they failed pafl:. There can be no doubt, that thefe were the Refolution and Adventure. We learnt from them, that the name of their illand is Te- rouggemoii Atooa; and that they were fubjecT: to Teere- vatooeah, king of Wateeoo *• According to the account ♦ The reader will obfcrve, that this name bears little affinity to any one of the names of the thiee Chiefs of Wateeoo, as preferved by Mr. Anderfon. thar Ai .* I i T H E PACIFIC OCEAN. that they gave, their articK s of food are cocoa-nuts, fifli, and turtle j the ifland not producing plantains, c bread- fruit; and being deftitute of hogs and dogs. Their canoes, of which near thirty were, at one time, in fight, arc pretty large, and well built. In the conftruvvn upon the reef, irmcd with long pikes and clubs, as if they intended to oppofc his landing. And yet, when he drew near enough, they threw fome cocoa-nuts to our people, and invited them to come on fhore ; though, at the very fame time, he obferved tliat tlie women were very buly bringing down a frefli fupply of fpcars and darts. But, as E e 2 he an «777- April. ■ Mi < #i i '' ■ -J '■'m ■',^ 212 Ills" ,.:.|:it A V O Y A G E T O he had no motive to land, he did not give them an oppor- tunity to ufe them." Having received this report, I confidcred, that, as the fliips could not be brought to an anchor, we Ihould find that the attempt to procure grafs here, would occafion much delay, as well as be attended with fome danger. Befides, we were equally in want of water ; and though the inhabitants had told us, that there was water on their ifland, yet we neither knew in what quantity, nor from what diftancc, wc might be obliged to fetch it. And, aficr all, fuppofing no other obftrudtion, we were fure, that to get over the reef, would be an operation equally difficult and tedious. Being thus difappointed at all the iflands we had met with, fmce our leaving New Zealand, and the unfavourable winds, and other unforcfeen circumftances, having unavoid> ably retarded our progrefs fo much, it was now impof- fible to think of doing any thing this year, in the high lati- tudes of the Northern hcmifphere, from which we were ftill at fo gr«at a diftancc, though the feafon for our operations there was already begun. In this fituation, it was abfolutely neceflary to purfue fuch meafures as were moft likely to preferve the cattle we had on board, in the iirft place ; and, in the next place (which was ftill a more capital obje<5t), to fave the ftorcs and provifions of the fliips, that we might be better enabled to profecute our Northern difcovcries, which could not now commence till a year later than was orginally intended. If I had been fo fortunate as to have procured a fupply of water, and ot" grafs, at any of the iftands we had lately vifited, it was my purpofe to have ftood back to the South, till I . had «777- April. T H E P A C I F I C O C E A N. JiJ had met with a Wcfterly wind. But the certain confcqucncc of doing this, without fuch a fupply, would have been the lofs of all the cattle, before we could pofTibly reach Ota- heitc, without gaining any one advantage, with regard to the gieat objed of our voyage. I, therefore, determined to bear away for the Friendly Iflands, where I was fure of meeting with abundance of every thing I wanted : and it being ncccfTary to run in the night, as well as in the day, I ordered Captain Gierke to keep about a league ahead of the Refolution. I ufed this precaution, bccaufc his fliip could beft claw off the land j and it was very pofliblc we might fall in with fomc, in our pafTage. The longitude of Hervey's I/Tand, when firft difcovcred, deduced from O.aheite, by the time-keeper, was found to be 201° 6' Halt, and now, by the fame time-keeper, deduced from Qiieen Charlotte's Sound, 200° 56' Eall. Hence I con- clude, that the error of the time-keeper, at this time, did not exceed twelve miles in longitude. When we bore away, I fleered Weft by South, with a fine breeze Eafterly. I propofed to proceed firft to Middleburgh, or Eooa } thinking, if the wind continued favourable, that we had food enough on board, for the cattle, to laft till wc fhould reach that ifland. But, about noon, next day, thofe Monday/, faint breezes, that had attended and retarded us fo long, again returned ; and I found it necclFary to haul more to the North, to get into the latitude of Palmerfton's and Savage lilands, difcovered in 1774, during my laft voyage*; that, if necellity required it, we might have recourfe to them. * See Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 2, 3. r'i n » :i i' ' ■"ti .5 ^i This 1. l^sH •ir, '■kMsL ''li'ln ^v SI4 •777' April. A V O Y A G E T O This day, in order lo fave our water, I ordered the ftill to be kept at work, from fix o'clock in the morning to four in the afrTnoon ; during which time, we procured from , thirteen to fixtcen gallons of frefh water. There has been lately made fome improvement, as they are pleafed to call it, of this machine, which, in my opinion, is much for the worfe. . . • . • ' • Thurfdayio. Thcfc light brcczcs continucd till the loth, when we had, for fomc hours, the wind blowing frcfli from the North, and Noiih North Weft ; being then in the latitude of 18° 38', and longitude 198° 24' Faft, In the afternoon, w;; had fome thunder fqualls from the South, attended with heavy rain; of wliich water, wc colledled enough '.o fill five punciieons. After thefe fqualls had blown over, itie wind came round to the North Eaft, and North Weft ; bfeing very unfettlcd Friday ii, both in ftrength and in pofition, till about noon the next day, when it fixed at North Weft, and North North Weft, and blew a frefh breeze, with fair weather. , Thus were we pciTccuted with a wind in our teeth, which- ever way wedireded our c-'^'^fc ; and wc had the additional .,. mortification to find here, thofe very winds., which wc had . ' rcafon to expccT: 8° or 10'' farther South. They came too late ; for I durft not truft their continuance ; and the event • proved that I judged right. , Sund.-ty 13. Illonda/ 14. At length, at day-break, in the morning of tlie 13th, v.e faw Palmerfton Illand, bearing Weft by South, diftant about five leagues. However, we did not get up with it, till eight o'clock the next morning. 1 then fent four boats, thr..'e from the Refolution, and one from the Difcovcry, with an officer in each, to fearch the coaft for the moft convenient landing-place. For, now, we were under an abfolute neccf- iiiy O nt THE PACIFIC OCEAN. fity of procuring, from this ifland, fome food for the cattle ; otherwife we mufl have lofl them. What is comprehended under the name of Palraerfton's Ulanci, is a group of fmall iflots, of which there are, in the whole, nine or ten, lying in a circular dire(5lion, and connected together by a reef of coral rocks. The boats firft examined the South Eafternmoftof the iflots which compofe this group ; and, failing there, ran down to the fecond, wlicre we had the fatisfacHiion to fee them land. I then bore down with the fhips, till abreaft of the place, and there we kept Handing off and on. For no bottom was to be found to anchor upon ; which was not of much confe- quence, as the party who had landed from our boats, were the only human beings upon the ifland. , About one o'clock, one of the boajs came on board, laden with fcurvy-grafs and young cocoa-nut trees ; which, at this time, was a fcaft for the cattle. The fame boat brought a meflagt from Mr. Gore, who commanded the party, in- forming me, that there was plenty of fuch produce upon the ifland, as alfo of the ivharra tree, and fome cocoa-nuts. This determined me to get a good fupply of thele articles, before I quitted this flation ; and, before evening, I went afliOre in a fmall boat, accompanied by Captain Gierke. We found every body hard at work, and the landing place to be in a I'mall creek, formed by the reef, of fome- thing more than a boat's length in every dirc(5lion, and co- vered from the force of the fea, by rocks projccling out on each fide oF it. The ifland is fcarcely a mile in circuit j and not above three feet higher than the level of the fea. It ap- peared to be compofed entirely of a coral fand, with a fmall mixture of blackilh mould, produced from rotten vege- tables. 215 ^777' April. ^^.i ■■■ '*! til m i '■ v "1* 2l6 1777. April. AVOYAGETO tables. Notwithftanding this poor foil, it is covered with trees and bufhes of the fame kind as at Wenooa-ette, though with lefs variety ; and amongft thefe are fome cocpa-palms. Upon the trees or bullies that front the fea, or even farther in, we found a great number of men of war birds, Tropic birds, and two forts of boobies, which, at this time, were laying their eggs, and fo tame, that they fuffered us to take them off with our hands. Their nefts were only a few flicks loofely put together ; and the Tropic birds laid their eggs on the ground, under the trees. Thefe dilTer much from the common fort, being entirely of a moft fplendid white, fligh'ly tinged with red, and having the two long tail-fea- thers of a deep crimfon or blood colour. Of each fort, our people killed a confiderable number ; and, though not the moft delicate food, they were acceptable enough to us who had been long confined to a fait diet, and who, confc- quently, could not but be glad of the moft indifferent va- riety. We met with vaft numbers of red crabs, creeping about, every where amongft the trees ; and we caught feve- ral filh that had been left in holes upon the reef, when the fea retired. At one part of the reef, which looks into, or bounds, the lake that is within, there was a large bed of coral, almoft even with the furface, which afl'orded, perhaps, one of the moft enchanting profpefts, that Nature has, any where, produced. Its bafe was fixed to the fhore, but reached fo far in, that it could not be feen ; fo that it feemed to be fu- fpended in the water, which deepened fo fuddenly, that, at the diftance of a few yards, there might be feven or eight fathoms. The fea was, at this time, quite unruffled ; and the fun, fliining bright, expofed the various forts of coral, in the moft beautiful order j fom« parts branching into the water V' r THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 817 ■water with great luxuriance ; others, lying collcifled in round balls, and in -various other figures ; all which were greatly heightened by fpangles of the richcft colours, that glowed from a number of large clams, which were every where interfperfed. But the appearance of thefe was ftiil inferior to that of the multitude of fiflies, that glided gendy along, feemingly with the mod perfcd fecurity. The co- lours of the different forts were the moft beautiful that can be imagined ; the yellow, blue, red, black, Sac. far exceed- ing any thing that art can produce. Their various forms, alfo, contributed to increafe the richnefs of this fubmarine grotto, which could not be furveyed without a plealing iranfport, mixed, however, with regret, that a work, fo ftu- pendoufly elegant, fhould be concealed, in a place where mankind could feldom have an opportunity of rendering the praifes juftly due to fo enchanting a fcene. There were no traces of inhabitants having ever been here ; if we except a fmall piece of a canoe that was found upon the beach ; which, probably, may have drifted from fome other ifland. But, what is pretty extraordinary, we faw feveral fmall brown rats on this fpot ; a circumftance, perhaps, difficult to account for, unlefs we allow that they were imported in the canoe of which we faw the remains. After the boats were laden, I returned on board, leaving Mr. Gore, with a party, to pafs the night on fliore, in order to be ready to go to work early the next morning. That day, being the ij;th, was accordingly fpent, as the Tucfdayi^. preceding one had been, in collecting, and bringing on board, food for the cattle, confifting chiefly of palm-cab- bage, young cocoa-nut trees, and the tender branches of the ivhana tree. Having got a fufficient fupply of theie, _..VoL. I. Ff .by '\\ ■^:n I' 'Pi 1777. ;\pril. Wednef. 16. 218 A V O Y A G E T O ' ' by funfet, I ordered every body on board. But having little or no wind, I determined to wait, and to employ the next day, by endeavouring to get fome cocoa-nuts for our people, from f^e next ifland to leev^rard, where we could obferve that thofe trees were in much greater abundance, than upon that where we had already landed, and where only the wants of our cattle had been relieved. With this view, I kept {landing off and on, all night ;. and, in the morning, between eight and nine o'clock, I went with the boats to the Weft fide of the ifland, and landed with little difficulty. I immediately fet the people with me to work, to gather cocoa-nuts, which we found in great abundance. But to get them to our boats was a tedi- ous operation j for we were obliged to carry theiti at leafl' half a mile over the reef, up to the middle in water. Omai, who was with me, caught, with a fcoop net, in a very fliorc time, as much fifli as ferved the whole party on fhore for dinner, befides fending fome to both fhips. Here were alfo great abundance of birds, particularly men-of-war and Tropic birds ; fo that we fared fumptuoufly. And it is but doing juflice to Omai to fay, that, in thefe excurfions to the uninhabited iflands, he was of the grcateft ufe. For he not only caught the fifh, but drefTed thefe, and the birds we killed, in an oven, with heated flones, after the fafhion of his country, with a dexterity and good-humour that did him great credit. The boats made two trips, before nighty well laden ; with the lafl, I returned on board, leaving Mr. Williamfon, my third Lieutenant, with a party of men, to prepare another lading for the boats which I propofed to fend next morning. Tiiurfdayi7. I, accordingly, difpatched them at feven o'clock, and they returned laden by noon. No time was loft in fending them back r;'' THE PACIFIC OCEAN. back for another cargo ; and they carried orders for every body to be on board by funfet. This being complied with, we hoifted in the boats and made fail to the Weilward, with a light air of wind from the North. We found this iflot near a half largei'. than the other, and almoft entirely covered with cocoa-palms ; the greatefl. part vof which abounded with excellent nuts, having, often, both old and young on the fame tree. They were, in- deed, too thick, in many places, to grow with freedom. The other produftions were, in general, the fame as at the firfl: iflot. Two pieces of board, one of which was rudely carved, with an elliptical paddle, were found on the beach. Probably, thefe had belonged to the fame canoe, the remains of which were feen on the other beach, as the two iflots are not above half a mile apart. A young turtle had alfo been lately thrown afhore here, as it was ftill full of maggots. There were fewer crabs than at the lafl place ; but we found fome fcorpions, a few other infe(51:s, and a greater number of fifh upon the reefs. Amongft thefe were fome large eels, beautifully fpotted, which, when followed, would raife themfelves out of the water, and endeavour, with an open mouth, to bite their purfuers. The other fori > wcrcr chiefly, parrot-fifh, fnappcrs, and a brown fpotted rock-fifli, about the fize of a haddock, fo. tame, that, inftcad of fwimming -away, it would remain fixed, and gaze at us. Had we been -in abfolute want, a fufUcient fupply might have been had; for thoufands of the clams, already mentioned, fluck upon the reef, fome of which weighed two or three pounds. There were, befides, fome other forts of fliell-filh ; particularly, the large periwinkle. When the tide flowed, fevcral fliarks came in, over the reef, fome of which our people killed ; r f 2 ^ but 3Ip >777- April. ill Qi' ?■>■? i 'I fj ^ 220 A VOYAGE TO I;!; :■:■■!, i'^'^-J j^777j. but they rendered it rather dangerous to walk in the water * at that time. The party who were left on fhore with Mr. Williamfon, were a good deal peftered (as Mr. Gore's had been) with mufquitoes, in the night. Some of them, in their excur- iions, Ihot two curlewSj exa(5tly like thofe of England; and faw Ibme plovers, or fand-pipert, upon the fiiore; but, in the wood, no other bird, belides one or two of the cuckoos that were feen at Wenooa-ette. Upon the whole, we did not fpend our time unprofTtably at this laft iflot ; for we got there about twelve hundred cocoa-nutS) which were equally divided amongft the whole crew; and were, doubtlefs, of great ufe to them, both on account of the juice and of the kernel. A Ihip, therefore, palling this way, if the weatlicr be moderate, may expcdt to fucceed as we did. But there is no water upon either of the iflots where we landed. Were that article to be had, and. a pafTage could be got into the lake, as we may call ir, fur- rounded by the reef, where a Ihip could anchor, I fliould prefer this to any of the inhabired iflands, if the only want were refrefhmenr. For the quantity of fifti that might be procured, would be fufficient ; and the people migli : roam about, unmoleilcd by the petulance of any inhabitants. The nine or ten low iflots, comprehended under the name of Palmerllon's Ifland, may be reckoned the heads Oi- fum- mits of the reef of coral rock, that connecHis them together, covered only with a thin coat of fand, yet clothed, as al- ready obfer.ved, with trees and plants, moft of which are of the fame forts that are found on the low grounds of the high Iflands of this ocean. There I'C THE PACIFIC OCEAN. There are different opinions, amongft ingenious theorift?, concerning the formation of fuch low iflands as Pahiicr- fton's. Some will have it, that, in remote times, thefe little feparate heads or iflots were joined, and formed one conti- nued and more elevated tradl of land, which the fea, in the revolution of ages, has walhed away, leaving only the higher grounds; which, in time, alfo, will, according to this theory, fhare the fame fate. Another conjedlure is, that they have been thrown up by earthquakes, and are the effedl of internal convulfions of the globe. A third opinion, and which appears to me as the moft probable one, main^ tains, that they are formed from flioals, or coral banks, and, of confequence, increafmg. Without mentioning the feve- ral arguments made ufe of in fupport of each of thefe fyftems, I fhall only defcribe fuch parts of Palmerfton's Ifland, as fell under my own obfervation when I landed upon it. The foundation is, every where, a coral rock ; the foil is coral fand, with which the decayed vegetables have, but in a few places, intermixed, fo as to form any thing like mould. From this, a very ftrong prefumption may be drawn, that thefe little fpots of land, are not of very an- cient date, nor the remains of larger iflands novy^ buried in the ocean. For, upon either of thefe fuppofitions, more mould muft have been formed, or fome part of the original foil would have, remained. Another circumftance con- firmed this do(5lrine of the increafe of thefe iflots. \V6 found upon them, far beyond the prefent reach of the fca, even in the mofl: violent llorms, elevated coral rocks, which, on examination, appeared to have been perforated, in the fame manner that the rocks are, that now compofe the outer edge of the reef. This evidently fhews, that the faa. 2Zf 1777. April, :''n i'. s^i April. AVOYAGETO fea had formerly reached fo far; and fome of thcfe perfo- rated rocks were almoft in the centre of the land. But the llrongcfl: proof of the increafe, and from the caufe we have afligned, was the gentle gradation obfervable in the plants round the flcirts of the iflands j from within a few inches of higli-watcr mark, to the edge of the wood. In many places, the divifions of the plants, of different growths, were very diftinguidiable, efpecially on the lee, or wefl-fide. This, I apprehend, to have been the operation of extraordinary high tides, occafioned by violent, accidental gales from the Wellward ; which have heaped up the fand beyond the reach of common tides. The regular and gentle operation of thefe latter, again, throw up fand enough to •form a barrier againft the next extraordinary high tide, or ilorm, fo as to prevent its reaching as far as the former had done, and deftroying the plants that may have begun to vegetate from cocoa-nuts, roots, and feed brought thither by birds, or thrown up by the fea. This, doubtlefs, hap- pens very frequently ; for we found many cocoa-nuts, and fome other things, jull Sprouting up, only a few inches beyond where the fea reaches at prefcnt, in places where, It was evident, they could not have had their origin from thofc, farther in, already arrived at their full growth. At the fame time, the increafe of vegetables will add fall to the height of this new-created land; as the fallen leaves, and broken branches, are, in fuch a climate, foon con- verted into a true black mould, or foil *. Perhaps * Mr. Anderfon, in his Journal, mentions the following particulars, rela- tive to I'almerfl-jn's Ifland, which ftrongly confirm Captain Cook's opinion about its formation. •' On the laft of the two illots, where wc landed, the trees, being in ■«« great mr-i 4 '.. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Perhaps there is another caufe, which, if allowed, will accelerate the increafe of thefc iflands as much as any other; and will alfo account for the fea having receded from thofc elevated rocks before-mentioned. This is, the fprcading of the coral bank, or reef, into the fca ; which, in my opi- nion, is continually, though imperceptibly, afTedtcd. The waves receding, as the reef grows in breadth and height, leave a dry rock behind, ready for the reception of the broken coral ai>d fand, and every other depofit necelFary for the formation of land fit for the vegetation of plants. in this manner, there is little doubt, that, in time, the whole reef will become one ifland j and, I think, it will ex- tend gradually inward, either from the increafe of the iflots already formed ; or from the formation of new ones, upon the beds of coral, within the inclofed lake, if once they increafe fo as to rife above the level of the fca. After leaving Palmerfton's Ifland, 1 fleered Weft, with a view to make the beft of my way to Annamooka. We flill continued to have variable winds, frequently between the North and Weft, with fqualls, fome thunder, and much rain. During thefe fhowers, which were, generally, very copious, we faved a confiderable quantity of water; and finding that we could get a greater fupply by the rain, in >777- April. • ,. 11 1 i " great numbers, had already formed, by their rotten parts, little rifings or eminences, •' which, in time, from the fame caufe, may become fmall hills. Whereas, on the firft " iflot, the trees being lefs numerous, no fuch thing had, as yet, happened. Neverthe- " lefs, on that little fpot, the manner of formation was more plainly pointed out. " For, adjoining to it, was a fmall ifle, which had, doubtlefs, been very lately formed ; " as it was not, as yet, covered with any trees, but had a great many fhrubs, fame *' of which were growing among pieces of coral that the fea had thrown up. There " was ftill a more fure proof of this method of formation a little farther on, where " two patches of fand, about fifty yards long, and a foot or eighteen inches high, *' lay upon the reef, but not, as yet, furniflied with a fingle bu(h, or tree." one Ml i M 124- A V Y r\ E T O 1777- April. I '5 Thurfday7.4, Friday 25. Mouday 28. one hour, than we could get by u iiillation in a month, I laid afidc the dill, as a thing attended with more trouble than profit. The heat, which had been great for about a month, became now much more difagreeable in this clofe rainy- weather ; and, from the moifture attending it, threatened foon to be noxious ; as the fliips could notice kept dry, nor the flcuttles open, for the fea. However, it is remarkable enough, thai though the only refrefliment we had received fmce leaving tlie Cape of Good Hope, was that at New Zea- land ; there was not, as yet, a fingle perfon, on board, fick, from the conflant ufe of fait food, or vicillitude of climate. In the night between the 24th and 25th we paflTed Savage Ifland, which I had difcovered in 1774*; and on the 28th, at ten o'clock in the morning, we got fight of the iflands which lie to the Eaflward of Annamooka, bearing North by Weft, about four or five leagues diftanr. I fleered to the South of thefe iflands and then hauled up for Annamooka ; which, at four in tbe afternoon, bore North Weft by North, Fallafajeea South Weft by South, and Komango North by Weft, diftant about five miles. The weather being fqually, with rain, I anchored, at the approach of night, in fifteen fathoms deep water, over a bottom of coral-fand, and fliells } Komango bearing North Weft, about two leagues diftant. * For an account of the difcovery of Savage Ifland ; a dcfcription of it; and the behaviour of its inhabitants, on Captain Cook's landing, fee his Voyage, Vol. ii. V- 3- to P- 7- CHAP. 1 E^^^^l iJ I C/H'/imyaJt \ ^V \ 4-.«s» f^- ,\-';-^ 3 - «... ^W ■-.A«* i*v /ir//.-r-^, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 12S CHAP. IV. Inter courfe with the Natives of Komango^ and other Ijlandi. ~— Arrival at Annamooka.^ — Tranfa&ions there, — Fce^ noUf a principal Chiefs from Tongataboo^ comes on a Vifit, -—The Manner of his Reception in the IJlandy and on board. — Inflances of the pilfering Difpofition of the Na- tives. — Some Account of Annamooka, — The Pajfagefrcm it to Hapaee, SOON after wc had anchored, two canoes, the one with 1777. tour, and the other with three men, paddled toward ■ ^"' .« us, and came along-fide without the leaft hefitation. They ^°"^"y '^* brought fome cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, plantains, and fugar- cane, which they bartered with us for nails. One of the men came on board ; and when thefe canoes had left us, another vifited us ; but did not flay long, as night was ap- proaching. Komango, the ifland ncarcft to us, was, at leaft, five miles off; which fhews the hazard thefc people would run, in order to pofTefs a few of our moft trifling articles. Befides this fupply from the fliore, we caught, this even- ing, with hooks and lines, a confidcrable quantity of fifh. Next morning, at four o'clock, I fent Lieutenant King, Tuefdayzo. with two boats, to Komango, to procure refrefliments ; and, at five, made the fignal to weigh, in order to ply up to An- namooka, the wind being unfavourable ^t North Weft. .Vol. I. <^& t N- it- j| II ■' ''''tiilnls J ' I I 1 I I I I I n— t- 1 i"T I I l_i_ -I s:r^.'i V V^^ A ;s' .^•Sj^ 3 /./.n«nf/(.^^\ f'/ff'/iwyttM "M \ N V / " i * ,4- ^ »..•. ' ■'^ ,''»a'"';^"'''"' fl * •v-^ ® i^ . A ~—x — .7 \ «J» * 'V, / W / \'*0 '*^.* ^ • -.«* ^omnni/r lY.'f^p • , ,-■ "/)'* riUfit/il/rfil - i85 H« "tX >J*^ S \'\\iVi\\y.\ io< ""^--"'^(H'S 4 //,■<>/ 0/ : 3=:nprrjzFXT .)_.j__i_j_ij - ~^=:^i^3:j=i::irnzjTpr 3qixj: JinzTJ:: 12 I I I I T I I I iH — r^ T^ -T-T^T^-T-I— t— T-V-l—i-T- I r I T I TT !? 1-1 f"-'^ '«; t r: f \ I \ KoiiiiiiigoN J JJ- m' /■h//,,/,i/mi %-L "■^---"'"'Ns - - _ _ "ii.f 2l ."III LL- I I I I .L.!. I I I I I ] t r rrc: -i-L-i—i-- t5=T: ^lH777- M:iy. * ... , Saturday 3. Next clay, our various operatiors on fliore began. Some were employed in making hay for the cattle ; others in fill- ing our water calks at the neighbouring ftagnant pool ; and a third party in cutting wood. The greateft plenty of this laft article being abreaft of the fhips, and \\\ a fituation the mofl convenient for getting it on board, it was natural to make choice of this. But the trees here, which our people erroneoufly fuppofed to be manchincel, but were a fpecies of pepper, called faltamo by the natives, yielded a juice of a milky colour, of fo corrofive a nature, that it raifed bliftcrs on the llcin, and injured the eyes of our work- men. • They were, therefore, obliged to defill at this place, and remove to the cove, in which our guard wa3 (latloned, and where we embarked our water. Other wood, more fuitable to our purpofes, was there furniflied to us by the natives. Thefe were not the only employments we were engaged in, for Meflrs. King and Bayly began, this day, to obferve equal altitudes of the fun, in order to get the rate of the time-keepers. In the evening, before the natives retired fiom our poll, Taipa harangued them for fome time. We could only guefs at the fubjedt ; and judged, that he was inftrudling them how to behave toward us, and encou- raging them to bring the produce of tlie ifland to market. We experienced the good effects of his eloquence, in the plentiful fupply of provifions which, next day, we received. mi m. a f •. Sunday 4, Monday 5. Nothing worth notice happened on the 4th and 5th, ex- cept that, on the former of thefe days, the Difcovery loft her fmall bower anchor, the cable being cut in two by the rocks. This misfortune made it necclTary to examine the cables of the Refolution, which were found to be unhurt. 4 On THE PACIFIC OCEAN. On the ^th, we were vifited by a great Chief from Tonga- taboo, vvhofe name was Feenou, and whom Taipa was plealcd to introduce to us as King of all the Friendly Ifles. I was now told, that, on my arrival, a canoe had been dif- patched to Tongataboo with the news ; in confcquence of which, this Chief immediately pafled over to Annamooka. The Officer on fliore informed me, that when he firfl ar- rived, all the natives were ordered out to meet him, and paid their obeifance by bowing their heads as low as his feet, the foles of which they alfo touched with each hand, firft with the palm, and then with the back part. There could be little room to fufpedt that a perfon, received with fo much refpe(5t, could be any thing lefs than the King. In the afternoOii, I went to pay this great man a vifit, hav- ing firft received a prefent of two filh from him, brought on board by one of his fervants. As foon as I landed, he came up to me. He appeared to be about thirty years of age, tall, but thin, and had more of the European features, than any I had yet feen here. When the firft falutation was over, I afkcd if he was the King. For, notwithftanding what I had been told, finding he was not the man whom I remembered to have feen under that charader during my former voyage, I begart to entertain doubts. Taipa offici- oufly anfwercd tor him, and enumerated no lefs than one hundred and fifty-three iflands, of which, he faid, Fcenou was the Sovereign. After a Ihort ftay, our new vifiter, and. five or fix of his attendants, accompanied me on board. I gave fuitable prefcriu. ro them all, and entertained them in; fuch a manner, as I thought would be moft agreeable. In the evening, I attended them on fhore in my boat, into •whicli the Chief ordered three hogs to be put, as a return for 231 1777- May. —J Tucfday 6. ',..tn r^nlil -.1 V :: ■ Hi it ft3tl A VOYAGE TO VJ'^' ^TJr the prefents he had received from me. I was now in- K — >~.^ formed of an accident which had juft happened, the rela- tion of which will convey fome idea of the extent of the authority exercilied here over the common people. While Fcenou was on board my fliip, an inferior Chief, for what •reafon our pc'";ple on fhore did not know, ordered all the na- tives t '^.irc from the pod we occupied. Some of them having - icu vd to return, \vi took up a large flick, and beat then, moft, •' mercifully. He (Iruck one man, on the fide of the face, with fo much violence, that the blood gufhed out of his mouth and noflrils ; and, after lying fome time motionlefs, he was, at laft, removed from the place, in convulfions. The perfon who had inflicfted the blow, being told that he had killed the man, only laughed at it ; and, it was evident, that he was rot in the leaft forry for \vhat had happened. We heard, afterward, that the poor fufferer recovered. The Difcovery having found again her fmall bower an- Wednef. 7. chor, fliiftcd her birth on the 7th ; but not before her bed bower cable had fhared the fate of the other. This day, I had the company of Feenou at dinner ; and alfo the next Thurfday 8. day, wlicn he was attended by Taipa, Toobou, and fome other Chiefs. It was remarkable, that none but Taipa was allowed to fit at table with him, or even to eat in his prefence. I own that I confidered Feenou as a very conve- nient gueft, on account of this etiquette. For, before his arrival, I had, generally, a larger cotnpany than I could well find room for, and my table overflowed with crowds of both fexes. For it is not the cuftom at the Friendly Iflands, as it is at Otaheite, to deny to their females the pri- \'ilege of eating in company with the men. The ■^ • fl^i v< THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 233 i Mav. The firfl: day of our arrival at Annamooka, one of ac natives had (toleii, out of the (hip, a large juak axe. I row applied to Fcenou to exert his authority to get it rcflored to xne ; and fo implicitly was he obeyed, that it was brought on board while we were at dinner. Thefe people gave us very frequent opportunities of remarking what expert thieves they were. Even fome of their Chiefs did not think this profcflion beneath them. On the 9th, one of them was Friday 9. detected carrying out of the fli' ■, concealed under his clothes, the bolt belonging to th^ i in yarn winch; for which 1 fentenced him to receive a dozen laflies, and kept him confined till he paid a hog for his liberty. After this, ■we were not troubled with thieves if rank. Their fervants, or ilaves, however, were ilill '■mployed in this dirty work; and upon them a flogging fee.Aied to make no greater im- preflion, than it would have done upon the main-maft. When any of them happened to be caught in the a6t, their mafters, far from interceding for them, would often advife us to kill them. As this was a punifliment we did not choofe to inflicft, they generally efcaped without any punifli- ment at all ; for they appeared to us to be equally infcn- fible of the fhame, and of the pain of corporal chaftifcment. Captain Clcikc, at lad, hit upon a mode of treatment, which, ■we thought, had fome efTecft. He put them under the hands of the barber, and completely Ihaved their heads ; thus pointing them out as objedls of ridicule to their country- men, and enabling our people to deprive them of future opportunities for a repetition of their rogueries, by keeping them at a diftance. Feenou was fo fond of aflbciating with us, that he dined on board every day ; though, fometimes, he did not partake of our fare. On the loth, fome of his fervants brought a Saturday 10. Vol. I. H h mefs, /lU m m >■' «34 1777' May. Sunday II. A VOYAGE TO mefs, which had been dreflcd for him on fliore. It confiftcd of fifli, foup, and yams. Inftead of common water to make the foup, cocoa-nut liquor had been made ufe of, in which the fifli h:id been boiled or flewed ; probably in a wooden vcITcl, with hot (lones , hut it was carried on board in a plantain leaf. I tailed of the mefs, and found it fo good, that I, afterward, had foiiie fi(h drefTed in the fame way. Though my cook fuccccded tolerably well, he could pro- duce nothing equal to the difli he imitated. Finding that we had quite exhaufted the ifland, of almofl: every article of food that it afforded, I employed the nth in moving off, from the fhore, the horfes, obfcrvatories, and other things that we had landed, as alfo the party of ma- rines who had mounted guard at our flation, intending to fail, as foon as the Difcovery fhould have recovered her bed bower anchor. Feenou, underftanding that I meant to pro- ceed diredlly to Tongataboo, importuned me ftrongly to alter this plan, to which he exprelTed as much averfion, as if he had feme particular interell to promote by diverting me from it. In preference to it, he warmly recommended an ifland, or rather a group of iflands, called Hapaee, lying to the North Eafl;. There, he afTured us, we could be fup- plied plentifully with every refrefliment, in the eafieft man- ner; and, to add weight to his advice, he engaged to attend us thither in perfon. He carried his point with me; and Hapaee was made choice of for our next (lation. As it had never been vifited by any European fhips, the examination of it became an object with me. The i2th, and the 13th, were fpcnt in attempting the re- covery of Captain Gierke's anchor, which, after much Wcdnef. 14, trouble, was happily accomplifhed ; and on the 14th, in the morning, we got under fail, and left Annamooka. 9 This Monday 12 Tuefday ij THE PACIFIC OCEAN. This ifland is fomcwhat higher than the other fmall ides that furround it ; but, ftill, it cannot be admitted to the rank of thofe of a moderate height, fuch as Mangcea and Wateeoo. The fliore, at that pai c where our Ihips lay, is compofcd of a fteep, rugged coral rock, nine or ten feet high, except where there aie two fundy beaches, which , have a reef of the fame fort of rock extending crojTo their entrance to the fliore, and defending them from the fca. The fah water lake that is in the centre of the ifland, is about a mile and a half broad ; and round it, the land rifes like a bank, with a gradual afcent. But we could not trace its having any communication with the fea. And yet, the land that runs acrofs to it, from the largefl fandy beach, being flat and low, and the foil fandy, it is moft likely that it may have, formerly, communicated that way. The foil, on the rifing parts of the ifland, and efpecially toward the fea, is either of a reddilh clayey difpofition, or a black, loofc mould ; but there is, no where, any flream of frelli water. The ifland is very well cultivated, except in a few places ; and there are fome others, which, though they appear to lie wafte, are only left to recover the ftrength cxhaufted by conftant culture; for we frequently faw the natives at work upon thefe fpots, to plant them again. The plantations confifl: chiefly of yams and plantains. Many of them arc very extenflve, and often inclofed with neat fences of reed, difpofcd obliquely acrofs each other, about fix feet high. Within thefc, we often faw other fences of lefs compafs, furrounding the houfcs of the principal people. The bread- fruit, and cocoa-nut trees, are interfperfed with little order ; but chiefly near the habitations of the natives ; and the Other parts of the ifland, efpecially toward the fca, and about the fides of the lake, are covered with trees and buflics of a moft luxuriant growth ; the lafl place 1) ving a n h 2 great 235 » \\\ ■ * I ■■HI, •,m M , rVj i • ft 23^ |;^^--F I: U 1' I' ',%•' 1 ', ■ i. May. A VOYAGE TO great many mangroves, and the firft a vaft number of the faitanoo trees already mentioned. There feem to be no rocksr^ or Hones, ot any kind, about the ilhind, that are not coral j except in one place, to the right of- the fandy beach, where there is a rock twenty or thirty feet high, of a calcareous ftone,of a ycllowifli colour, and a very clofc texture. Ikit even about that place, which is the highell part of tlic land, are large pieces of the fame coral rock that coinpoles the Iliorc. Befides walking frequently up into the country, which wc were permitted to do without interruption, we fometimes amufed ourfelves in fliooting wild ducks, not unlike the ■widgeon, which are very nmnerous upon the fait lake, and the pool where we got our water, in thefe excurfions, wc found the inhabitants had often deferted their houfes to come down to the trading place, without entertaining any fufpicion, that ftrangers, rambling about, would take away, or deftroy, any thing that belonged to them. But though, from this circumftance, it might be fuppofcd that the greater part of the natives were fometimes collecT:ed at the beach, it was impoflible to form any accurate computation of their number ; as the continual refort of vifiters from other iflands, mixing with them, might eafily miflead one-. However, as there was never, to appearance, above a thou- sand perfons collccfted at one time, it would, perhaps, be fufiicicnt to allow double that number for the whole ifland; The place where fuch numbers aflembled daily, and the bay where our boats landed, are faithfully reprefented in a. drawing by Mr. Webber. To the North and North Eaft of Annamooka, and in the direcft track to Ilapaee, whither we were now bound, the fea is fprinkled with a great number of fmall ifles. Amidft the flioals and rocks adjoining to this group, I could not be 4 • aiTured ffsi ,■1 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. asr >777. May. aflurcJ that there was a ficc or fafc pafTIigc for fuch large Ihips as ours; though the natives Tailed through the in- tervals in their canoes. For this fubllantial rc.ifbn, when we weighed anchor froni Annarnooka, I thought it nc- cclKiry to go to the Wcdvvard of the above illands, and Wcdncf. 14- fleered North North Well, toward Kao * and I oofoa, the two mod Wcrtcrly illands in fight, and remarkable for their great heigiu. I'ecnou, and his attendants, remained on bo ird tlic llefulution till near noon, when he went into the large failing canoe, wliich had brought him from Ton- gataboo, and Hood in amongfl the duller of ill inds above mentioned, of which we were now almoll abread ; and a tide or current from the Weil ward had fet us, fincc our faiU ing in the morning, much over toward them. They lie fcattcred, at unequal didances, and arc, in ge- neral, nearly as high as Annamooka ; but only from two or three miles, to half a mile in length, and fome of them Icarcely fo much. They have either deep rocky fhores like Annamooka, or reddifli clUls ; but fomc have fandy beaches ■ extending almod their whole length. Mod of them are en- tirely cloihcd with trei-'s, amongil: which are many cocoa^ palms, and each forms a prolpci51: like a beautiful garden placed in the lea. To heighten this, the ferene weather we now had, contributed very much ; and the whole might fupply the imagination with an idea of fomc fairy land' * As a proof of the great difficulty of knowing accurately tho cx;i(f!t names of the South Sea Ifl.inds, as procured from the niitlrcs, I obltrvc tiiat what Captain Cook cnlls Aghao^ Mr. Andcrfon calls Kao ; and Tai'inan's drawing, as I- find it i.i Mr. Dalrymple's Colledtion of Voyages, gives the name of Knybay to the fame iHand. ■ Tafman's and Captain Cook's Atnattafoa^ is, with Mr. Anikrfon, Tofoa. Capt.iin Cook's Komango, is Tafman's Amango. There is fcarccly an inflancc, in w'lith fucli variations are not obfervablc. Mr. Anderfon's great attention to matters of this fort being, as we iearn from Captain King, well known to every body on 1 ;rd, and ad- mitted alw.iys by Captain Cook himfeif, his nuuie of fpelling has been iptcd on t!ij engraved chart of the Friendly Illands j which has made it neccflary .. Jopt it .dfo, in printing the journal. realized. % I, I k".. I m 5 -'t >3l| !' .11 mi'] .. S\ IP* ' liBtS^ Ill ' ' 1: May. 238 AVOYAGETO realized. It fliould feem, that fomc of them, at leaft, may have been formed, as we fuppofed Pahnerflon's Ifland to have been ; for there is one, which, as yet, is entirely fand, and another, on which there is only one bufli, or tree. At four o'clock in the afternoon being the 'ength of Kotoo, the Wefternmofl of the above cluflcr of fmall illands, we fleered to the North, leaving Toofoa and Kao en our lar- board, keeping along the Weft fide of a reef of rorks, which lie to the Wcllwardof Kotoo, till we came to their Northern extremity, round v/hich we hauled in for the ifland. It was our intention to have anchored fc; the night; but it came upon us before we could f nd a pUce in lefs than fifty- five fathoms water ; and rather than come to in this depth, I chofe to fpend the night under fail. We had, in the afternoon, been within two leagues of *. Toofoa, the fmoke of which we faw feveral trmes in the day. The Friendly Iflanders have fome fuperftitious notions about the volcano upon it, which they call Kollofeea, and fay it is an Otoon^ or divinity. According to their account, it fometimcs throws up very large ftones ; and they compare • the cratet-y to the fize of a fmall iflot, which has never ccafed fmoking in their memory ; nor have they any tradition that it ever did. We fometimes faw the fmokc rifing from ilic centre of the ifiand, while ue were at Annamooka, though at tlie diftance of at leafl ten leagues. Toofoa, v;e were told, is bat thinly inhabited, but the water upon it 13 good. -ufdayis. At day-])rcak the next morning, being then not far from Kao, which is a valv rock of a conic figure, we fleered to the Ead, for the pafliige between the iflands I'ootooha and Hafaiva, with a gentle breeze at South Eaft. About tea ©•clock, Fccnou came on board, and remained with us all day. -i ;i! SS9 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. day. He brought with him two hogs, and a quantity of '777- fruit ; and, in the courfc of the day, fcveral canoes, from » 7' -J the diflbrent iflands round us, came to barter quantities of the latter article, which was very acceptable, as our flock was nearly expended. At noon, our latitude was 19° 49' 45 " South, and we had made feven miles of longitude from Anna- mooka; Toofoa bore North, 88" Weft; Kao North, 71° Wefl; Footooha North, 89° Wefl; and Hafaiva South, 12' Wefl. After palling Footooha, we met with a reef of rocks ; and, as there was but little wind, it cofl us fome trouble to keep clear of them. This reef lies between Footooha and Neeneeva, which is a fmall low ifle, in the dire(flion of Eafl North Eafl from Footooha, at the diflance of feven or eight miles. Footooha is a fmall ifland, of middling height, and bounded all round by a fteep rock. It lies South 6f Eafl, diflant fix leagues from Kao, and three leagues from Kotoo, in the direction of North 33° Eafl. Being pafl the reef of rocks jufl mentioned, we hauled up for Neeneeva, in hopes of finding t.nchorage ; but were again difappointed, and obliged to fpend the night, making fhort boards. For, although we had land in every dire(5tion, the lea was un- fathomable. In the courfe of this night, we could plainly fee flames ifTuing from the volcano upon Toofoa, though to no great height. At day-break in the morning of the 16th, with a gcnde PHiiay 16:: breeze at South Eafl, we fleered North Eafl for Hapaec, which was now in fight ; and we could judge it to be low land, from the trees only appearing above the water. About: nine o'clock, we could fee it plainly forming three iflaras, nearly of an equal fize ; and foon after, a fourth to the Southward 1'^. i;5'!|i ' \^m I 24© A VOYAGE TO 17/7- ■Southward of thefe, as laree as the others. Each fecmcd to May. *-' 1— ^r— ' be about fix or feven miles long, and of a Cmilar heiglu and appearance. The Northernmoft of them is called Haanno, the next Foa, the third Lefooga, and the Southcrnmoil Moo- laiva; but all four are included, by the natives, under the general name Hapaee. The wind fcanting upon us, we could not fetch the land ; fo that we were forced to ply to windward. In doing this, we once palled over fome coral rocks, on wliich we had only fix fathoms water ; but the moment we were over them, found no ground with eighty fathoms of line. At this time, the ifles of Hapaee bore, from North, 50° Eaft, to South, 9° Weft. We got up with the Northernmoft of thefe iiles by funfet J and there found ourfelves in the very fame diftrefs, for want of anchorage, that we had experienced the two pre- ceding evenings ; fo that we had another night to fpend under fail, with land and breakers in every direcftion. To- ward the evening, Fcenou, who had been on board all day, went forward to Hapaee, and took Omai in the canoe with him. He did not forget our difagreeable fituation ; and kept up a good fire, all night, by way of a land-mark. Saturday 17. As foon as the day-light returned, being then clofe in with Foa, we faw it was joined to Haanno, by a reef running even with the furface of the Tea, from the one ifland to the other. I now difpatched z boat to look for an- chorage. A proper place u as foon found; and we came to, abreaft of a reef, being- that which joins Lefooga to Foa (in tl'iC fame manner that Foa is joined to Haanno), having twenty-four fathoms d.-pth of water;- the bottom coral fand. In this ftation, the nor hcin point of Hapaee, or the North end of Flaanno, bore r.'onh, 16° Fall. The Southern point of Vol. I. Ii CHAP. 'Hh THE PACIFIC OCEAN. of Hapaee, or the South end of I'oolaiva, South, 29' Weft; and the North end of Lcfooga, South, 65° Eaft. Two ledges of rocks lay without us ; the one bearing South, 50° Weft ; and the other Weft by North 4. North, diftant two or three miles. We lay before a creek in the reef, which made it convenient landing at all times; and we were not above three nuarters of a mile from ihe fliore. 241 1777. May. '"'m 1:3 !242 A VOYAGE TO CHAP. V, i; Arrival of the Ships at Hapaee^ and friendly Reception there, — Prefents and Solemnities on th& Occajion. — Si7igle Combats with Clubs. — Wreflling and Boxing Matches, — Female Combatants. — Mari?ies exercifed, — A Da?ice performed by Men. — Fireworks exhibited. — The Night- entertainments of fmging and dancing particU' larly defcribed. 'it!l lit ■: 1777. May. Saturday 17. BY the time we had anchor^'d, the fhips were filled with the natives, and furrounded by a mulritude of canoes, filled alfo with them. They brought, from ihc fliorc, hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, which they exchanged for hatchets, knives, nails, beads, and cloth. Feenou and Omai having come on board, after it was light, in order to introduce me to the people of the ii; nu" I foon accompanied them on fhore, for that purpofe, landing at the North part of Lefooga, a little to the right of the fliip's flation. The Chief condu6led me to a houfo, or ratlier a hur, fituatcd clofe to the fea-beach, which I had (i^an brought: thither, but a few minutes before, for our reception. In this Feenou, Omai, and myfelf, were feated. The other Chiefs, and the muhitude, compofcd a circle, on the out- fide, fronting us ; and they alfo fat down. I was then afked, How long I intended to flay? On my faying, Five days, Taipa was ordered to come and fit by me, and pro- 7 claim THE PACIFIC OCEAN. claim this to the people. He then harangued them, i i fpeech moflly dictated by Feenou. The purport of it, as I learnt from Omai, was, that they were all, both old and young, tc look uponmc as a friend, who intended to remain with iher.. a few days ; that, during my flay, they muft not fleal any thing, nor molcfl: me any other way ; and that it was expe6led, they lliould bring hogs, fowls, fruit, 8cc. to the Ihips, where they would receive, in exchange for them, fuch and fuch things, which he enumerated. Soon after Taipa had fmiflied this addrefs to the affembly, Fee- nou left us. Taipa then took occafion to fignify to me, that it was neceifary I flionld make a prefent to the Chief of the ifland, whofc name was Earoupa. I was not unprepared for this J and gave him fuch articles as far ex'ceeded his ex- pedlation. My liberality to him brought upon me demands, of the fame kind, from two Chiefs of other iflcs who were prefent; and from Taipa himfelf. When Feenou rcturnea, which was immediately after I had made the laft of thefe prefcnts, he pretended to be angry with Taipa fo fufferjiig me to give away fo much ; but I looked "pon thi ^ a n'"..re linefle ; being confident that he a(fted in concf . with the others. He now took his feat again, and ordered Earoupa to fit by him, and to harangue the people as laip • 'ad done, and to the fame purpofe ; dicftating, as before, the heads of the fpeech. Thefe ceremonies being performed, the Chief, at my requeft, conducted me to three ftagnant pools of frefli wa- ter, as he was pleafed to call it : and, indeed, in one of thefe the water was tolerable, and the fituation not inconvenient for filling our caflcs. After viewing the watering-place, we returned to our former fiation, where I found a baked Iiog, and feme yams, fmoking hot, ready to be carried on I i 2 board 24: '777. May. ( '!. ''If ■til' ;' ;:! d » ll. «1 . f. .IS mm 1777- May. 244 AVOYAGETO board for my dinner. 1 invited Feenoii, and his friends, to partake of it ; and we embarked for the fliip ; but none but himfelf fat down with us at the table. -Afrcr dinner I con- du(5led them onlhore; and, befcrj I returned on board, the Ciiicf gave me a fine large turtle, and a quaniity of yams. Our fupply of provifions was copious; for, in the courfe of the day, we got, by barter, along-fide the fliip, about twenty fmall hogs, bcfide fruit and roots. I was told, that, on my full lai'ding in the morning, a man came off to the fliips, and ordered every one of tlie natives to go on fliore. Trobably, this was done with a view to have the whole body of inha- bitants prcfent at the ceremony of my reception ; for when that was over, multirudes of them returned again to the fbips. Sunday i8. Ncxt morning early, Feenou, and Omai, who fcarcely ever quitted the Chief, aud now flept on fhore, came on board. The objeft of the vifir, was to require my prefence upon the illand. After fome time, 1 accompanied them •, and, upon landing, was conduced to the fame place where I had been fcatcd the day before ; and where I faw a large concoiirfc of people already allcmbled. I guelFed that fomething more than ordinary was in agitation 3 but could not tell what, nor could Omai inform me. ti I had not been long fcatcd, before near a hundred of the natlvcb appeared in fig'it, and advanced, laden with yams, bri^ad-fvuic, plantains, cocoa-nuts, and fugar-cancs. They depr.iitcd their burdens, in two heaps, or piles, upon our left, being the fide they came from. Soon after, arrived a number of others from the riglit, bearing the fame kind of articles ; winch were colled:cd into two piles upon that fide. To thcfc were tied two pigs, and fix fowls ; and 10 ihcfe, VA THE PACIFIC OCEAN. thofc, upon the Icfr, fix pigs, and two rurtlcs. Earouna feated hinifclf before the feveral articles upon the left; and another Chief before thofc upon the right ; they being, as I judged, the two Chiefs who had collected them, by order of Feenou, who fcemed to be as implicitly obeyed here, as he had been at Annamooka; and, in confequence of his commanding fupcriority ever the Chiefs of Hapace, had laid this tax upon them for the prefent occafion. As foon as this munificent collcdlion of provifions was laid down in order, and difpofed to the bed advantage, the bearers of it joined the multituffc, v/ho formed a large circle round the Vv-hole. Prefently after, a number of men en- tered this circle, or area, before us, armed with clubs, made of the green branches of the cocoa-nut tree. Thefe paraded about, for a f'^w minutes, and then retired; the one half to one fide, and ine other half to the other fide ; leating them- felvcs before the fpectators Sonn after, they fucccflively entered the liib, and entertained us with fingle combats. One champion, rifiiig up and ftepoing forward from one fide, challenged tliofe of the other fide, by expreffive gQ{- tures, more than by words, ■ fend one of their body to op- pofe him. If the challenge .vas accepted, which was ge- nerally the cafe, the two combatants put themfclves in proper attitudes, and then began the engagement, wliich continued till one or other owned himfelf conquered, or till their weapons were broken. As Ojon as each combat was over, the vidlor fquarted himfelf down facing the Chief, then rofe up, and retired. At the fume time, fomc old men, who feemed to fir as judges, gave :heir plaudit in a few words ; and the tnulticiide, efpccially tliofe on the fide to which tlie victor belonged, celebrated the glory he had acquired, in. two or three huzzas. This 245; >777- May. ■^"H Jim itr' ^ I'- 246 '777- Mav. A VOYAGE TO This cntcrtainmciu was, now and then, fufpcntlcd for a few minutes. Durinsr tlicfc intervals there were both wrefUincr and boding matches. The fnft were performed in the f.une nianncr as at Otaheite ; and the fecond dillercd very little from the method pra(:l:ifcd in England. But wliat ftruck us with mod furprife, was, to fee a couple of lufty wenches ikp forth, and begin boxing, without the leall ceremony, and with as ni'icH art as the men. This conteft, however, did not lad above half a minute, before one of them gave it up. The conquering heroine received the fame applaufe from the fpe^ftators, which they beftowed upon the fuccefs- ful combatants of the other fex. We exprefled fome dif- likc at this part of the entertainment ; which, however, did not prevent two other females from entering the lifts. They feemed to be girls of fpirit, and would certainly have given each other a good drubbing, if two old women had not in- terpofcd to part them. All thefe combats were exhibited in the midft of, at lead, three thoufand people ; and were condu6led with the greateft good humour on all fides; though fome of the champions, women as well as men, received blows, which, doubtlefs, they muft have felt for fome :imc after. As foon as thcfediverfions were ended, the Chief told me, that the heaps of provifions, on our right-hand, were a pre- fcnt to Omai ; and that thofe, on our left-hand, being about two-thirds of the whole quantity, were given to me. He added, that I might take them on board whenever it was convenient; but that there would be no occafion to fet any of our people as guards over tlicm, as I might be aflured, that not a fingle cocoa-nut would be ^^ken away by the natives. So it proved ; for I left every thing behind, and i-eturned to the fliip to dinner, carrying the Chief with me; and ii,*J THE PACIFIC OCEAN. and when the provifions were removed on board, in the af- ternoon, not a fingle article was mifling. There was as much as loaded four boats ; and I could not but be flruck with the munificence of Feenou ; for this prefcnt far ex- ceeded any I had ever received from any of the Sovereigns of the various iflands I liad vifitcd in the Pacific Ocean. I loft no time in convincing my friend, that I was not infen- fible of his liberality ; for, before he quitted my fhip, I be- llowed upon him fuch of our commodities, as, I guefTed, were moft valuable in his cftimation. And the return I made was fo much to his fatisfadtion, that, as foon as he got on Ihore, he left me ftill indebted to him, by fending me a frefli prefcnt, confiding of two large hogs, a confider- able quantity of cloth, and fomc yams. Feenou had exprefled a defire to fee the marines go through their military exercife. As I was defirous to gratify his curiofity, I ordered them all afliorc, from both fhips, in the morning of the 20th. After they had performed various evolutions, and fired feveral vollies, with which tiie nume- rous body of fpetftators fecmcd well plcafed, the Chief en- tertained us, in his turn, with rn exhibition, which, as was acknowledged by us all, was performed witii a dexterity and exadtnefs, far furpalling the fpccimen we had given of our military manoeuvres. It was a kind of a dance, fo en- tirely dillerent from any thing I had ever feen, that, I fear, I can give no dcfcription that will convey any tolerable idea of it, to my readers, k was performed by men ; and one hundred and five pcrfons bore their parts in it. Each of them had in his hand an inlln'ment neatly made, Iliaped fomewhat like a paddle, of two feet and a half in Ici-'gth, with a fmall handle, and a thin blade ; fo that they were very light. With ihefe inftrumcnts they made many and various 247 '777- Miy. I ^— r ^ 'ii TucfJay 20» 14 ^:'dl 248 ". I'M si /I' '777« May. AVOYAGETO various flouriflies, each of which was accompanied with a dilFcrcnt attitude of the body, or a dillcrcnt movement. At lirft, the performers ranged themfelvcs in three lines ; and, by various evolutions, each man changed his llation in 'uch a manner, that thofe who had been in the rear, came in c> the front. Nor did tlicy remain long in the fame pofition ; but thefe changes were made by pretty quick tranfitions. At one time, they extended themfelves in one line; they, then, formed into a femicircle ; and, laftly, into two fquare columns. While this lad movement was executing, one of them advanced, and performed an antic dance before me ; with which the whole ended. The mufical inrtruments confided of two drums, or rather two hollov/ logs of wood, from which fome varied notes were produced, by beating on them with two (licks, h did nor, however, appear to me, that the dancers were much aflifted or chredled by thefe founds, but by a chorus of vocal mufic, in which all the performers joined at the fame time. Their fong was not dellitute of pleafing melody ; and all their corrcfponding motions were executed' with fo mucii Ikill, that the numerous body of dancers feemcd to aiH:, as if they were one great machine. It was the opinion of every one of us, that fuch a performance would have met with univerfal applaufc on a European theatre ; and it fo far ex- ceeded any attempt we had made to entertain them, that they fccmcd to picque themfelves upon the fuperiority they had over us. As to our nmlical inftruments, they held none of them in the Icall eflcem, except the drum ; and even that they did not think equal to their own. Our French horns, in particular, feemcd to be held in great contempt ; for neither here, nor at any other of the iflands, would they pay the fmallcll attention to them. 3 . In THE PACIFIC OCEAN. In order to give them a more favourable opinion of Eng- lifli amufcments, and to leave their minds fully imprefTcd with the decpeft fenfe of our fupcrior attainments, I direfled fomc fireworks to be got ready ; and, after it was dark, played them off in the prefence of Feenou, the other Chiefs, and a vaft concourfc of their people. Some of the preparations we found damaged ; but others of them were in excellent order, and fucceeded fo perfe(5lly, as tc anfwcr the end I had in view. Our water and fky-rockets, in par- ticular, pleafcd and aftonifhed them beyond all conce^^Lon j and the fcale was now turned in our favour. This, however, feemed only to furnifli them with an additional motive to proceed to frefh exertions of their very fmgular dexterity ; and our fireworks were no fooner ended, than a fucceflion of dances, which Feenou had got ready for our entertainment, began. As * a prelude to them, a band of mufic, or chorus of eighteen men, feated them- felves before us, in the centre of the circle, compofed by the numerous fpediators, the area of which was to be the fcene of the exhibitions. Four or five of this band, had pieces of large bamboo, from three to five or fix feet long, each managed by one man, who held it nearly in a vertical pofition, the upper end open, but the other end clofcd by one of the joints. With this clofe end, the performers kept conftantly ftriking the ground, though flowly, thus pro- ducing tiifTerent notes, according to the different lengths of the inftruments, imt all of them of the hollow or bafc fort; to counteract: which, a pcrfon kept {hiking quickly, and with two flicks, a piece of the fame fubibuce, fplit, and * nir. Anderfon's account of the night dances being much fuller than Captain Cook's, the reader will not be diipleafcd that it has been adopted. 549 M.ij. ( • ■'.1,1 'm ■I ?4 Vol. I. K k laid ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V :a :a 4&f 1.0 I.I 11.25 ■JO ■^" JJJI^H ^ 1^ |2.0 u Photographic Sciences Corporaition 4.^ V ^ fv 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (71«) 873-4S03 2S0 1777' May, A VOYAGE TO laid along the ground, and, by that means, furniihing a tone as acute, as thofc produced by the others were grave. The reft of the band, as well as thofe who performed upon the bamboos, fung a flow and foft air, which fo tempered the harfher notes of the above inftruments, that no byc< dander, however accuftomed to hear the moft perfeA and varied modulation of fweet founds, could avoid confefl- ing the vaft power, and pleaflng effetft, of this fimple harmony. The concert having continued about a quarter of an hour, twenty women entered the circle. Moft of them had, upon their heads, garlands of the crimfon flowers of the China rofe, or others ; and many of them had ornamented their perfons with leaves of trees, cut with a great deal of nicety about the edges. They made a circle round the chorus, turning their faces toward it, and began by finging a foft air, to which refponfes were made by the chorus in the fame tone; and thefe were repeated alternately. All this while, the women accompanied their fong with feveral very graceful motions of their hands toward their faces, and in other diredlions at the fame fime, making conftantly a ftep forward, and then back again, with one foot, while the other was fixed. They then turned their faces to the af- fembly, fung fome time, and retreated flowly in a body, to that part of the circle which was oppofite the hut where the principal fpetHrators fat. After this, one of them advanced from each fide, meeting and pafling each other in the front, and continuing their progrefs round, till they came to the reft. On which, two advanced from each fide, two of whom alfo paflcd each other, and returned as the former ; biu the other two remained, and to thefe came one, from each fide, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ^51 fide, by intervals, till the whole number had again formed wr- a circle about the chorus. u •nm', Their manner of dancing was now changed to a quicker meafure, in which they made a kind of half turn by leap- ing, and clapped their hands, and fnapped their fingers, repeating fome words in conjunction with the chorus. To- ward the end. as the quicknefs of the mufic increafed, their geftures and ?rt:tudes were varied with wonderful vigour and dexterity ; and fome of their motions, perhaps, would, with us, be reckoned rather indecent. Though this part of the performance, mod probably, was not meant to convey any wanton ideas, but merely to difplay the aftonifh- ing variety of their movements. To this grand female ballet, liicceeded one performed by fifteen men. Some of them were old ; but their age feemed to have abated little of their agility or ardour for the dance. They were difpofed in a fort of circle, divided at the front, with their faces not turned out toward the affembly, nor inward to the chorus j but one half of their circle faced for- ward as they had advanced, and the other half in a con- trary dire<5tion. They, fometimes, fung flowly, in concert with the chorus J and, while thus employed, they alfo made fcveral very fine motions with their hands, but different from thofe made by the women, at the fame time inclining the body to cither fide alternately, by raifing one leg, which was (Iretched outward, and refting on the other; the arm of the fame fide being alfo ftretchcd fully upward. At other times, they recited fentences in a mufical tone, which were anfwered by the chorus ; and, at intervals, increafed the meafure of the dance, by clapping the hands, and quick- ening the motions of the feet, which, however, were never Oraricd. At the end, the rapidity of the mufic, and of the K k a dancing, «ii ,3 li '-f ' ■ si mm ■* ' i^^l^^l 2J2 >777' May. A VOYAGE TO dancing, increafed fo much, that it was fcarcely pofible to diflinguilh the different movements; though one might fuppofe the a(5lors were now almoft tired, as their perform- ance had lafted near half an hour. After a confiderable interval, another aft, as we may call it, began. Twelve men now advanced, who placed them- fclves in double rows fronting each other, but on oppofite fides of the circle ; and, on one fide, a man was Rationed, who, as if he had been a prompter, repeated feveral fen- tences, to which the twelve new performers, and the chorus, replied. They then fung flowly ; and afterward danced and fung more quickly, for about a quarter of an hour, after the manner of the dancers whom they had fucceeded. Soon after they had finiQied, nine women exhibited them- felves, and fat down fronting the hut where the Chief was. A man then rofe, and ftruck the firft of thefe women on the back, with both fids joined. He proceeded, in the fame manner, to the fecond and third } but when he came to the fourth, whether from accident or defign I cannot tell, in- Head of the back, he ilruck her on the bread. Upon this, a perfon rofe inftantly from the crowd, who brought him to the ground with a blow on the head ; and he was carried off without the leaft noife or diforder. But this did not fave the other five women from fo oad a difcipline, or perhaps neceffiiry ceremony ; for a perfon fucceeded him, who treated them in the fame ma' .ner. Their difgrace did not end here ; for when they danced, they had tlie mortification to find their performance twice difapprcved of, and were obliged to repeat it. This dance did not differ much from that of tlie firft women, except in this one circumftance, that the prefent fct, fomctimes raifed the body upon one leg, by M It ■I :t-6i THE PACIFIC OCEAN. by a fort of double motion, and then upon the other alter- nately, in which attitude they kept fnapping their fingers ; and, at the end, they repeated, with great agility, the brifk movements, in which the former group of female dancers had fhewn themfelves fo expert. In a little time, a perfon entered unexpe777« May. m ■ " Kfll 1 ''^ ' : ' n 'L III ' ''tfl ^il^l In m^k 'il W :M In^^^^l t*\ imfl^l . -Ii iBM • .ii' : 1 ]: kj.;,: H m 1 H ■i 1 S 1 '^1 ■^1 n ■ <4'i '^i «j:4 >777- May. — V— ^ A V O Y A G E T O exhibited. It refembled the immediately preceding one, in fome refpe(5is, having the fame number of performers, who began nearly in the fame way ; but their ending, at each interval, was different. For they increafed their motions to a prodigious quicknefs, fhaking their heads from fhoulder to fhoulder, with fuch force, that a fpe£tator, unaccuftomed to the fight, would fuppofe, that they ran a rifk of diflo- cating their necks. This was attended with a fmart clap- ping of the hands, and a kind of favage holla ! or fhriek, not unlike what is fometimes pradlifed in the comic dances on our European theatres. They formed the triple femi- circle, as the preceding dancers had done ; and a perfon, who advanced at the head on one fide of the femicircle, began by repeating fomething in a truly mufical recitative, which was delivered with an air fo graceful, as might put to the blufli our moil applauded performers. He was an- fwered in the fame manner, by the perfon at the head of the oppofite party. This being repeated feveral times, the whole body, on one fide, joined in the refponfes to the whole correfponding body on the oppofite fide, as the femi- circle advanced to the front ; and they finiihed, by finging and dancing as they had begun. Thefe two laft dances were performed with fo much fpirit, and fo great exadtnefs, that they met with univerfal approbation. The native fpeftators, who, no doubt, were perfeft judges whether the feveral performances were pro- perly executed, could not withhold their applaufes at fome particular parts ; and even a ftranger, who never faw the diverfion before, felt £milar fatisfaiflion, at the fame in- ftant. For though, through the whole, the moft flrift con- cert was obferved, fome of the geftures were fo expreflive, that it might be faid, tb y fpoke the language that accom- panied them i if we allow that there is any conne(5tion bC" jl tweea 4 II THE PACIFIC OCEAN. tween motion and found. At the fame time, it ihould be obferved, that though the mufic of the chorus, and that of the dancers, correfpondcd, conilant pra(5tice in thefe favourite amufemqnts of our friends, feems to have a great fha.*, in effe gratified, by the exhibition of the various entertain- ments I have defcribed, I began to have time to look about Weinef. ai. mc. Accordingly, next day, I took a walk into the inland of Lefooga, of which I was defirous to obtain fome know- ledge. I found it to be, in feveral refpecfts, fuperior to An- namooka. The plantations were both more numerous, and more extenfive. In many places, indeed, toward tlie fea, efpe- cially on the Eaft fiae, the country is ftill wafle j owing, perhaps, to the fandy foil ; as it is much lower than Anna- mooka, and its furrounding ifles. But, toward the middle of the ifland, the foil is better ; and the marks of confider- able population, and of improved cultivation, were very confpicuous. For we met here with very large plantations, % inclofed THE PACIFIC OCEAN. inclofcd in fuch a manner, that the fences running parallel to each other, form fine fpacious public roads, that would appear ornamental in countries where rural conveniences have been carried to the greated pcrfedlion. We obf'erved large fpots covered with the paper mulberry-trees ; and the plantations, in gen<:ral, were well docked with fuch roots and fruits as are the natural produce of the ifland. To thefc I made fome addition, by fowing the feeds of Indian corn, melons, pumpkins, and the like. At one place was a houfe, four or five times as large as thofe of the common fort, with a large area of grafs before it ; and, I take it for granted, the people refort thither on certain public occafions. Near the landing-place, we faw a mount, two or three feet high, covered with gravel ; and on it Hood four or five fmall huts, in which, the natives told us, the bodies of fome of their principal people had been interred. • The ifland is not above feven miles long ; and. in fome places, not above two or three broad. The Eaft fide of it, which is expofed to the trade-wind, has a reef, running to a confiderable breadrh from it, on which the fea breaks with great violence. It is a continuation^ of this reef that joins Lefooga to Foa, which is not above half a mile diilant; and, at low water, the natives can walk upon this reef, which is then partly dry, from the one ifland to the other. The fhore itfelf is either oral rock, fix or feven feet high, or a fandy beach ; but higher than the Weft fide ; which, in general, is not more than three or four feet from the level of the fea, with a fandy beach its whole length. When I returned from my excurfion into the country, and went on board to dinner, I found a large failing canoe fail to the fliip's ftern. In this canoe was Latooliboula, whom Vol. I. LI I had ^57 «777« Miy. 'iJ ilK i ' I 111 '#^ ^ : -11 ■raiil ., -t^ 258 A VOYAGE TO «:77- Thurfday:!. I had fccii at Tongataboo, during my laft voyage 1 and who was then luppofcd by us to be the King of that ifland. He lat in the canoe, with all that gravity, by which, as I have mentioned in my Journal*, he was ib remarkably diftin- guilhcd at that time; nor could I, by any intreatics, prevail upon him now to come into the fliip. Many of the iflanders were prefcni ; and they all called him Arcekec, which lignifies King. I had never heard any one of them give this title to Feenou, however extenfivc his authority over them, both here, and at Annamooka, had appeared to be; which had, all along, inclined me to fufpc(5^, that he was not the King; though his friend Taipa har, ♦. * Tangaia, in their language, is man ; Aiekee^ king. mount ^ ' THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 263 '777. May. mount raifed, by fome of their forefathers, iri memory of one of their kings ; but how long fmce, they could not tell. Night coming on, Mr. Gore and I returned on board ; and, at the fame time, Mr. Bligh got back from founding the bay, in which he found from fourteen to twenty fathoms water; the bottom, for the moft part, fand, but not without fomc eoral rocks. The place where we now anchored is much better fheltered than that which we had lately come from ; . but between the two is another anchoring flation, much better than either. Lefooga and Hoolaiva are divided from each other by a reef of coral rocks, which is dry at low w^.ter ; fo that one may walk, at that time, from the one to the other, without wetting a foot. Some of our Gentle- men, who landed in the latter ifland, did not find the Icaft mark of cultivation, or habitation, upon it; except afinglc hut, the refidcncc of a man employed to catch fifh and turtle. It is rather extraordinary, that it fliould be in this deferted {late, communicating fo imniediately with Lefooga, which is fo perfecHily cultivated. For, though the foil is quite fandy, all the trees and plants found, in a natural Hate, on the neighbouring iflands, are produced here with the greateft vigour. The Eall fide of it has a reef like Le- fooga; and 'le Weft fide has a bending, at the North part, wiierc there feems to be good anchorage. Uninhabited as Hoolaiva is, an artificial mount, like that at the adjoining ifland, has been raifed upon it, as high as fomc of the fur- rounding trees. At day-break, next morning, I made the fignal to weigh ; TuefJay zj, and, as I intended to attempt a paflage to Annamooka, in my way to Tongataboo, by the South Weft, amoiv^ft tlie intervening ifl:inds, I fent the Mafer in a boat to ■ found before the fhips. But before wo could get under X iail,. '■ 'i ■ In 1 ■iii; 1 ^H ''i : '. in ^?.' f i y r p ii ■•4 s64 A VOYAGE TO fail, the wind became un fettled ; which made it un- fafe to attempt a pafTagc this way, till we were better ac- quainted with it. I, therefore, lay faft, and made the fignal for the Mailer to return ; and afterward fenl him and the Mailer of the Difcovery, each in a boat, with inftru^tions to examine the channels, as far as they could, allowing themfelves time to get back to the Ihips before the clofe of the day. About noon, a large failing canoe came under our ftern, in which was a perfon named Futtafaihe, or Poulaho, or both ; who, as the natives then on board told us, was King of Tongataboo, and of all the neighbouring iflands that we had feen or heard of. It was a matter of furprize to me, to have a llranger introduced under this charadter, which I had fo much reafon to believe really belonged to another. But they perfifted in their account of the fupreme dig- nity of this new vifiter ; and now, for the firft time, they owned to me, that Feenou was not the King, but only a fubordinate Chief, though of great power ; as he was often fent from Tongataboo to the other iflands, on warlike expe- ditions, or to decide differences. It being my intereft, as well as my inclination, to pay court to all the great men, ■without making inquiry into the validity of their af- fumed titles, I invited Poulaho on board ; as I underftood he was very defirous to come. He could not be an unwelcome gueil ; for he brought with him, as a prefent to me, two good fat hogs ; though not fo fat as himfelf. If weight of body could give weight in rank or power, he was certainly the moft eminent man in that refpeft, we had feen ; for, though not very tall, he was very unwieldy, and almoft Ihapelefs with corpulence. He feemed to be about forty years of age, had flraight hair, and his features differed a good THE PACIFIC OCEAN. good deal from thofe of the bulk of his people. I found him to be a fedate, fenfible man. He viewed the fliip, and the fcveral new objccfts, with uncommon attention ; and afl^ed many pertinent queftions ; one of whicji was, What could induce us to vifit thefc iflands .* After he had fatisfied his curiolity in looking at the cattle, and other novelties which he met with upon deck, I dclired him to walk down into the cabin. To this, fome of his attendants objeded, faying, that, if he were to accept of that invitation, it mud happen, that people would walk over his head ; which could not be permitted. I dire(n:ed my interpreter Omai, to tell them, that I would obviate their obje<5tion, by giving orders, that no one fhould prefume to walk upon that part of the deck which was over the cabin. Whether this expedient would have fatisfied them, was far from appearing ; but the Chief himfelf, lefs fcrupulous, in this refpeft, than his at- tendants, waved all ceremony, and walked down without any Aipulation. He now appeared to be as folicitous him- felf, as his people were, to convince us that he was king, and not Feenou, who had paffed with us as fuch. For he foon perceived, that we had fome doubts about it ; which doubts Omai was not very defirous of removing. The clofeft conne(5lion had been formed between him and Fee- nou, in teftimony of which, they had exchanged names ; and, therefore, he was not a little chagrined, that another perfon now put in his claim to the honours which his friend had hitherto enjoyed. Poulaho fat down with us to dinner ; but he cat little, and drank lefs. When we rofe from the table, he defircd me to accompany him afliore. Omai was aflicd to be of the party ; but he was too faithfully attached to Feenou, to fliew any attention to his competitor; and, therefore, excufcd him- Vol. I. Mm felf. 265 >777. Mav. I f-fi . 5 m ■Si' . „ ''KM '.-ill < .1 \m ■ J'.i;- "I. 26$ May. A V O Y A G E T O felf. I attended the Chief in my own boat, having fiiil made prefents to him, of fuch articles as, I could obferve, he valued much* and were even beyond his expectation to receive. I was not difappointed in my view of thus fecur- ing his friendihip ; for the moment the boat reached the beach, and, before he quitted her, he ordered two more hogs to be brought, and delivered to my people to be con- veyed on board. He was then carried out of the boat, by fome of his own people, upon a board refembling a hand- barrow, and went and feated himfelf in a fmall houfe near the fliore ; which feemed to have been ere(5led there for his accommodation He placed me at his fide; and his attend- ants, who were not numerous, feated themfelves in a femi- circle before us, on the outfide of the houfe. Behind the Chief, or rather on one fide, fat an old woman, with a fort of fan in her hand, whofe office it was to prevent his being peftered with the flies. The feveral articles which his people had got, by trading on board the (hips, were now difplayed before him. He looked over them all, with attention, inquired what they ' had given in exchange> and feemed pleafed with the bar- gaiiis they had made. At length, he ordered every thing to be reftored to the refpecHrive owners, except a glafs bowl, with which he was fo much pleafed, that he referved it for himfelf. The perfons who brought thefe things to him, firft fquatted themfelves down before him, then they depo-- fited their feveral purchafes, and immediately rofe iin and retired. The fame refpedlful ceremony was obferved in taking them away -, and not one of them prefumed to fpeak to him (landing. I flayed till feveral of his attendants lefc him, lirft paying him obeifance, by bowing the head down to the fole of his foot, and touching or tapping the fame,, 5> wiih , THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 267 with the upper and under fide of the fingers of both hands. >777- Others, who were not in the circle, came, as it feemed, on * -'/' _j purpofe, and paid him this mark of refpeft, and then re- tired, without fpeaking a word. I was quite charmed with the decorum that was obferved. I had, no where, feen the like, not even amongft more civilized nations. I found the mailer returned from his expedition, when I got on board. He informed me, that, as far as he had pro- ceeded, there was anchorage, and a paflage for the fhips ; but that, toward the South and South Eail, he faw a num- ber of fmall ifles, flioals, and breakers. Judging, from this report, that my attempting a paflage that way would be at- tended with fome rifk, I now dropped all thoughts of it ; thinking it better to return toward Annamooka by the fame route, which we had fo lately experienced to be a fafe one. Having come to this refolution, I fhould have failed next wednef. zs. morning, if the wind had not been too far Southerly, and, at the fame time, very unfettled. Poulaho, the king, as I ihall now call him, came on board betimes ; and brought, as a prefent to me, one of their caps, made, or, at leaft, covered, with red feathers. Thefe caps were much fought after by us ; for we knew they would be highly valued at Otaheite. But, though very large prices were offered, not one was ever brought for fale j which (hewed, that they were no lefs valuable in the eftimation of the people here ; nor was there a perfon in either fliip, that could iT-'ke himfelf the proprietor of one, except myfelf. Captain Gierke, and Omai. Thefe caps, or rather bonnets, are compofcd of the tail fea- thers of the Tropic bird, with the red feathers of the parro- (iuets wrought upon them, or jointly with them. They are ' ' M m 2 made M I'fl ■-L- 268 A VOYAGE TO 'i57* ^^^^ fo ^s to tie upon the forehead without any crown, and .»■ M ■-' have the form of a femicircle, whofe radius is eighteen or twenty inches. But a drawing which Mr. Webber has made of Poulaho, drefled in one of thefe bonnets, will convey th- beft idea of them. The Chief flayed on board till the evening, when he left us ; but his brother, whofe name was alfo Futtafaihe, and one or two, or more, of his actendanis, continued in the ihip all night. Thorfday^. At day-break, the next morning, I weighed with a fine breeze^^ at Eaft North Eaft, and flood to the Weflward, with \ view to return to AnnamoDka, by the track we had already experienced. We were followed by feveral failing canoes, in one of whirh was the king. As foon as he got on board the Refoluiion, he inquired for his brother, and the others who had remained with us all night. It now appeared, that they had flayed without his leave ; for he gave them, in a very few words, fuch a reprimand as brought teai*s from their eyes ; and yet they were men not lefs than thirty years of age. He was, however, fobn reconciled to their making a longer flay ; for, on quitting us, he left his brother, and five of his attendants, on board. We had alfo the company of a Chief, juft then arrived from Tongataboo, whofe name was Tooboueitoa. The moment he arrived, he fent his canoe away, and declared, that he and five more, who came with him, would fleep on board ; fo that I liad now my cabin filled with vifiters. This, indeed, was fome inconvenience; but I bore with it more willingly, as they brought plenty of provifions with them, as prefects to mej for which they always had fuitCible retiirns. About '777- May. THE PACIFIC OCEAN.' 169 About one o'clock in the afternoon, the Eafterly wind was fucceeded by a frelh breeze at South South Eaft. Our courfe, now being South South Weft, or more Southerly, we were obliged to ply to windward, and did but juft fetch the North Side of Footooha by eight o'clock, where we fpent the night, making Ihort boards. The next morning, we plyed up to Lofanga, where, according to the information of our friends, there was an- chorage. It was one o'clock, in the afternoon, before we got foundings, under the lee or North Weft fide, in forty fathoms water, near half a mile from the fliore ; but the bank was fteep, and the bottom rocky, and a chain of breakers lay to leeward. All thefe circumftances being againft us, I ftretched away for Kotoo, with the expeftation of finding better anchoring ground under that ifland. But fo much time had been fpent in plying up to Lofanga, that it was dark before we reached the other; and, finding no place to anchor in, the night was fpent as the preced- ing one. At day- break, on the 31ft, I ftood for the channel which Saturday 31. is between Kotoo, and the reef of rocks that lie to the Weftward oF it ; but, on drawing near, I found the wind too fcant to lead us through. I, therefore, bore up on the outfide of the reef, and ftretched to the South Weft, till near noon, when, perceiving that wc made noprogrefs to wind- ward, and being apprehcnfivc of l^frng the iflands, with fo many of the natives on board, I tacked and ftood back, in- tending to wait till fome more favourable opportunity. We did but juft fetch in with Footooha, between which and Kotoo we fpent the night, under reefed topfails and forefail. The wind blew frefh, and by fqualls, with rain ; anJ we were H' *,' 1 ;■ m 3 Ml f '#'(81 ''"^!mH ''''^iffl ' ,' ' 'HSH ■, i ^•>« "ulSl ^ M ,1.1,, pi 270 June. Sunday i. AVOYAGETO were not without apf>rehenfions of danger. I kept the deck till midnight, when I left it to the Mattel-, with fuch direc- tions as, I thought, would keep the (hips clear of the fhoals and rocks, that lay round us. But, after making a trip to the North, and {landing back again to the South, our (hip, by a fmall (hift of the wind, fetched farther to the wind- ward than was expedled. By this means Ihe was very near running full upon a low fandy ifle, called Pootoo Puotooa> furrounded with breakers. It happened, very fortunately, that the people had juft been ordered upon the deck, to put the fhip about, and the mod of them were at their flations ; fo that the neceffiiry movements were not only executed with judgment, but alfo with alertnefs ; and this alone faved us from deftru6lion. The Difcovery being aftern, was out of danger. Such hazardous fituations are the unavoidable companions of the man, who goes upon a voyage of difcovery. This circumftance frightened our paflengers fo much, that they exprcfled a ftrong defire to get afhore. Accord- ingly, as foon as day-light returned, I hoitted out a boat, and ordered the Officer who commanded her, after landing them at Kotoo, to found along the reef that fpits off from that ifland, for anchorage. For I was full as much tired as they could be, with beating about amongfl the furrounding ifles and flioals, and determined to gt: to an anchor, fome- where or other, if poflible. While the boat was abfent. we attempted io turn the fhips through the channel, between the fandy ifle and the reef of Kotoo, in expeftatlon of find- ing a moderate depth of water behind them to anchor in. But, meeting with a tide or current againft us, we were obliged to defifl, and anchor in fifty fathoms water, with the fandy ifle bearing Eaft by North, one mile diftant. We ! t> n 271 V77' June. Monday z» THE PACIFIC OCEAN. We lay here till the 4th. While in this ilatioa we were, feveral times, vilited by the king, by Tooboueitoa, and by people from the neighbouring iflands, who came off to trade with us, though the wind blew very frefli xnofl of the time. The roafter was now fent to found the channels between the iflands that lie to the Eaftward ; and I landed on Kotoo, to examine it, in the forenoon of the -d. This ifland is fcarcely acceilible by boats, on account of coral reefs that furround it. It is not more than a mile . and half; or two miles, long; and not fo broad. The North Weft end of it is low, like the iflands of Hapaee ; but it rifcs fuddenly in the middle, and terminates m reddifh clayey cliffs, at the South Eaft end, about thirty feet high. The foil, in that quarteV, is of the fame fort as in the cliffs; bur, in the other pans, v. is a loofe, black mould. It produces the fame fruits and roots which we found at the other iflands; is tolerably cultivated, but thinly inhabited. While I was walking all over it, our people were employed in cutting feme grafs for the cattle; and we planted fome melon feeds, with which the natives feemed much pleafed, and inclofed them with branches. On our return to the boar, we paffed by two or three ponds of dirty water, which was more or lefs brackifti in each of them ; and faw one of their bury.-ig-placcs, which was much neater than ihofe thac were met with at Hapaee. On the 4th, at.feven ia the morning, we 'Vc _,hed; and, Wcdnef. 4. with a frcfli gale at Eaft South Eaft, flood away for Anna- tnooka, where we anchored, next morning, nearly in the ThurWays; fame ftaticn which we had fo lately occupiod^ I went i , ^iii n 27» ' O Y A G E 1 O h >777- I went on (liorc iouu after, and found the inhabitants •\— V— ' very billy in their plantations, digging up yams to bring to market j and, in the courfc of the day, about two hundred of i!;cm had adcmbled on the beach, and traded with as much eagernefs, as during our late vifit. Their flock ap- peared to have been rccruitcil much, though wc had re- turned fo foon ; but, inllcad of bread-fruit, which was the . only article wc could purchafe on our firfl: arrival, nothing was to be fccn now but yams, and a few plantains. This lliews the quick fucccilion of the feafons, at lead of the dif- ferent vegetables produced here, at the fevcral limes of the year. It appeared alfo that they had been very bufy, while vc were abl'ent, in cultivating ; for we now faw feveral large plantain fields, in places which we had, fo lately, feen lying vrafle. The yams were now in the greateft perfetflion ; and Vie procured a good quantity, in exchanges for pieces of iron. Thefe people, in the abfence of Toobou, whom we left behind us at Kotoo, with Poulaho and the other Chiefs, feemed to be under little fubordination. For we could not perceive, this day, that one man afTumed more authority than another. Before I returned on board, I vifiied the feveral places where I had fown melon feeds, and had the mortification to find, that moll of them were deflroyed by a fmall ant j but fome pineapple plants, which I had alfo left, were in a thriving flate. >riJay6. About nooH, ncxt day, FecHOU ariivcd from Vavaoo. He told us, that feveral canoes, laden with hogs, and other provifions, which had failed with him from that ifland, had been loft, owing to the late blowing weather j and that every body 'I'l ; »7J THE PACIFIC OCEAN, body on board them had ncrifhed. Ihis melanci nly tale »777. ' * June did not fcem to afTcd any of his countrymen who heard it ; v- ->■ » and, as to ourfelvcs, wc were, b} this time, too well ac- quainted with his chara(5lcr, to give much credit to fuch a ftory. The truth, probably, was, that he had not been able to procure at Vavaoo the iupplies which he expected ; or, if he got any there, that he had left them at Hapace, wliich lay in his way back, and where he could not but receive intelligence that Poulahohad been with us; who, therefore, he knew, would, as his fuperior, have all the merit and reward of procuring them, though he had not any fhare of the trouble. The invention of this lofs at fca M'as, however, well imagined. For there had lately been very blowing weather ; in fo much, that the King, and other Chiefs, who had followed us from Hapaee to Kotoo, had been left there, not caring to venture to fea when we did ; but defired I might wait for them at Annami jka, which was the reafon of my anchoring there, this fccond time, and of my not pro- ceeding dire(5lly to Tongataboo. The following morning, Poulaho, and the other Chiefs Saturday;. who had been wind-bound with him, arrived. I happened, at this time, to be afhore in company with Feenou ; who now feemed to be fenfibic of the impropriety of his con- dud:, in afluming a charac^ler that did not belong to him. For he not only icknowledged Toulalio to be King of Ton- gataboo, and th»; other ifles; but afTetTied to infift much on it, which, no doubt, was with a view to make amends for his former prefumption. I left him, to vifit this gic.vrcr man, whom I found fitting with a few people before him. But, every one haftening to pay court to him, the circle in- creafed pretty faft. I was very defirous of obfcrving Fccnou's behaviour on this occafion j and had the moft convincing Vol. I. N n proof i I ■'W., .Ft ■-. fl74 1777. June. Sunday S. AVOYAGETO proof oF his fupcriority ; for he placc777' faft, nor received any damage. We could not get back with- •L ""*^' ,' out increafing the danger, as we had come in almoll before the wind. Nor could we call anchor, but with the certainty of having our cables inftantly cut in two by the rocks. We had no otner refource but to proceed. To this, indeed, we were encouraged, not only by being told, but by feeing,, that there was deeper water between us and the fhore.^ However, that we might be better informed, the moment we found a fpot where we could drop the anchor, clear of rocks, we came to; and fent the Mailers, with the boats, to found. Soon after we had anchored, which was about noon, fe- veral of the inhabitants of Tongataboo came off in theii: canoes to the fliips. Thefe, as well as our pilots, affured' us, that we (hould find deep water farther in, and a bottom free from rocks. They were not millaken ; for, about four o'clock, the boats made the fignal. for having found good anchorage. Upon this we weighed, and Hood in till dark, and then anchored in nine fathoms, having a fine, clear, fandy bottom. , During the uight we had fome Ihowers of rainj but to- ward the morning, the wind fliifted to the South, and Sruth Tuefday lo. Eaft, and brought on fair weather. At day- break we weigh- ed, and, working in to the fliore, met with no obftrudions, but fuch as were vifible, and eafily avoided. While we were plying up to the harbour, to which the natives direfted us, the king kept failing round us in his canoe There were, at the fame time, a great many fmall canoes about the Ihips. Two of thefe, which could not get out of the way of his royal veffel, he run quite over, with a^ little concern, ai it they had b^^^en bits of wood* •j l-i^ --«R4*V'* r^-rnKV^V'**- .: • **-4 >4«*- DM C ^W^ .,-f»^. ■ ■ w r >>g t ^ !i:(H!^! '? ABttOI'R, nfitvr/ti. *f/tA-. "ofngK-i r V * ^ Taoo \ afiiSi ^ />v.U:Smi//l. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. wood. Amongft many others who came on board the Re- folution, was Otago *, who had been fo ufeful to me when I vifited Tongataboo during my laft voyage ; and one Too- bou, who, at that time, had attached himfelf to Captain Furneaux. Each of them brought a hog, and fome yams, as a teftimony of his friendship ; and I was not wanting, on my part, in making a fuitable return. At length, about two in the afternoon, we arrived at our intended flation. It was a very fnug place, formed by the Ihore of Tongataboo on the South Eaft, and two fmall iflands on the Eaft and North Eaft. Here we anchored in ten fathoms water, over a bottom of oozy fand; diftant fron^ the fhore one-third of a mile. 277 June, \^ -^ • See a print of him in Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 197.. m CHAP. 4h^ i, t I mm m\ \ i rn tiiii II i« » > Kf i n * H I *• m 'C"-''iA| 77h //'/■//,■//./ A'/'rr.ll,;/ /'l .l/"S/,-///.' . «78 A VOYAGE TO CHAP. VIT. Friendly Reception at Tongataboo. — Manner of dijlribut- ing a baked Hog and Kava to Poulahos Attendants »•—' The Obfervatory, &'c, ereEied. — The Village ivhere the Chiefs refide^i and the adjoining Cou7itiy, defcribed. — Interviews with Mareewagee^ and Toobou, a?id the Kings Son. — A grand Haiva^ or Entertainment of Songs and Dancesy given by Mareewagee. — Exhibition of Fire- works. — Manner of ^refiling and Boxing. — Difiribu- tion of the Cattle. — Thefts committed by the Natives.—^ Poulahoy and the other Chief Sy confined on that Account, — Poulahos Prefenty and Haiva. «777- June. <^ ->,-- ..* Tuefday lo. s OON after we had anchored, having firft dined, I landed, accompanied by Omai, and fomc of the Of- ficers. We found the king waiting for us upon the beach. He, immediately, condu(5led us to a fmall neat houfe, fitu- ated a little within the fkirts of the woods, with a fine large area before it. This houfe, he told me, was at my fervice, during our (lay at the ifland ; and a better fi:uation we could not wiQi for. We had not been long in the houfe, before a pretty large circle of the natives were affembled before us, and feated upon the area. A root of the kava plant being brought, and laid down before the king, he ordered it to be fplit into pieces, and diftributed to feveral people of both fexes, who began the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 279 the operation of chewing it j and a bowl of their favourite liquor was foon prepared. In the mean time, a baked hog, and two bafkets of baked yams, were produced, and after- ward divided into ten portions^ Thefc portions were then given to certain people prelent ; but Iiow many were to fliare in each, I could not tell. One of them, I obferved,. was beftowed upon the king's brother ; and one remained undifpofed of, which, I judged, was for the king himfelf, as it was a choice bit. The liquor was next ferved out; but Poulaho feemed to give no direcftions about it. The fnft cup was brougiu to him, which he ordered to be given to one who fat near him. The fecond was alio brought to him, and this he kept. The third was given to me ; but their manner of brewing having quenched my thirft, it be- came Omai's prop^erty. The reft of the liquor was diftri- buted to different people, by direftion of the man who had the management of it. One of the cups being carried to »he king's brother, he retired with this, and with his mefs- of vidtuals. Some others alfo quitted the circle with their portions ; and the rcafon was, they could neither eat nor drink in the royal prefence i but there were others prefent, of a much Inferior rank, of both fexes, who did both. Soon, after, moft of them withdrew, carrying with them what they had not eat of their fhare of the feaft. I obferved, that not a fourth part of the company had tafted either the victuals or the drink ; thofe who partook of the former, I fuppofed to be of the king's houfehold. The fervants, who diftributed the baked meat, and the kavat al* ways delivered it out of their hand fitting, not only to the. king, but to every other perfon. It is worthy of remark, ^^ though this was the firft time of our landing, and a great many people were prefent who had never feen us before,, a. yet- 777' yet no one was troublefomc ; but the greatefl: good order >_ 1 ^'- _f was preferved, throughout the whole aflembly. Before I returned on board, I went in fearch of a water- ing place, and was condu(5led to fome ponds, or rather holes, containing frefli water, as they were pleafed to call it. The contents of one of thefc, indeed, were tolerable ; but it was at fome diftance inland, and the fupply to be got from it was very inconfiderable. Being informed, that the little iiland of Pangimodoo, near which the fliips lay, could better furnifli this necelFary article, I went over to it, next Wednef. u. moming, and was fo fortunate as to find there a fmall pool, that had rather frelher water, than any we had met with amongft thefe iflands. The pool being very dirty, I or- dered it to be cleaned ; and here it was that we watered the fliips. ^ As I intended to make fome flay at Tongataboo, we pitched a tent, in the forenoon, juft by the houfe which Poulaho had affigned for our ufe. The horfes, cattle, and Iheep, were afterward landed, and a party of marines, with their Officer, flationed there as a guard. The obferva- tory was then fet up, at a fmall diftance from the other tent ; and Mr. King refided on fhore, to attend the obfervations, and to fuperintend the feveral operations neceflary to be_ condu(5led there. For the fails were carried thither, to be repaired ; a party was employed in cutting wood for fuel, and plank for the ufe of the fhips ; and the gunners of both, were ordered to remain upon the fpof, to condu(5t the traffic with the natives, who thronged from every part of the ifland, witii hogs, yams, cocoa-nuts, and other articles of their produce. Jn a Ihort time, our land poft was like a fair, and the fliips were fo crowded with viiiters, that had hardly room to ftir upon the decks. Feenou > 4{ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Feenou had taken up his refidence in our neighbourhood ; but he was no longer tlie leading man. However, we ilill found him to be a perfon of confcqucncc, and we had daily proofs of his opulence and liberality, by the continuance of his valuable prefents. But the king was equally attentive in this refpedl ; for fcarcely a day pafled, without receiving from him fome confiderable donation. We now heard, that there were other great men '>f the ifland, whom we had not, as yet, feen. Otago and Toobou, in particular, men- tioned a perfon named Mareewagee, who, they faid, was of the firft confequence in the place, and held in great vene- ration ; nay, if Omai did not mifunderftand them, fuperior even to Poulaho, to whom he was related ; but, being old, lived in retirement; and, therefore, would not vifit us. Some of the natives even hinted, that he was too great a man to confer that honour upon us. This account exciting my curiofity, I, this day, mentioned to Poulaho, that I was very defirous of waiting upon Mareewagee ; and he readily agreed to accompany me, to the place of his refidence, the next morning. Accordingly, we fet out, pretty early, in the pinnace; Thurfdayiz. and Captain Gierke joined me in one of his own boats. We proceeded round, that is, to the Eaftward of the little ifles that form the harbour, and then, turning to the South, ac- cording to Poulaho's directions, entered a fpacious bay or inlet, up which we rowed about a league, and landed amidft a confiderable number of people, who received us with a fort of acclamation, not unlike our huzzaing. They im- mediately feparated, to let Poulaho pafs, who took us into a fmall inclofure, and fliifted the piece of cloth he wore, for a new piece, neatly folded, that was carried by a young man. An old woman aflifled in drcffing him, and put a . Vol, I. O o mat f • irs ■i,:- iti ■ ).; i^ S82 A VOYAGE TO •777' June. mat over his cloth; as we fuppofed, to prevent its being dirtied when he fat down. On our now afking him where Mareewagee was, to our great furprizc, he faid, he had gone from the place, to the fliip, juft before wc arrived. However, he defired us to walk with him to a ma/aee, or houfe of public rcfort, which flood about half a mile up the country. But when we came to a large area before it, he fat down in the path, and defired us to walk up to the houfe. We did fo, and feated ourfelves in front, while the crowd that followed us filled up the refl of the fpace. After fittipg a little while, we repeated our inquiries, by means of Omai, Whether we were to fee Mareewagee ? But receiving no fatisfadlory information, and fufpefting that the old Chief was purpofely concealed from us, we went back to our boats, much piqued at our difappointment ; and when I got on board, I found that no fuch peifon had been there. It afterward appeared, that, in this affair, we had laboured under fome grofs miftakes, and that our interpreter Omai had either been mifinfoimeu, or, which is more likely, had mifundcrftood what was told him about the great ma."!, on whofe account we had made this excurfion. The place we went to was a village, mod delightfully fituated on the bank of the inlet, where all, or moft of the principal pevfons of the ifland refide ; each having his houfe in the midft of a fmall plantation, with leflfer houfes, and offices for fervants. Thefe plantations are neatly fenced round ; and, for the moll part, have only one entrance. This is by a door, fallencd, on the infide, by a prop of wood; i'o thct a perfon has to knock, before he can get admittance. Public roads, and narrow lanes, lie between each planta- tion ; fo that no one trefpafTeth upon another. Great part of fome of thefe inclofures is laid out in grafs-plots, ar-* planted II 2^1 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. i^Cy «777« June. planted with fuch things as fecm more for ornament than ufe. lUit liardly any were without ihc knvn plant, from which they make their favouviic licjuor. Every article of the vegetable produce of the illand, abounded in others of thefc plantations ; but thcfe, I obferved, arc not the rcii- dcncc of people of the firfl rank. There arc fbme large houfes near the public roads, with fpacious fmooth grafs- plots before them, and uninclofed. Thefc, I was told, be- longed to the king; and, probably, they arc the places where their public aflemblics are held. It was to one of thcfe houfes, as I have already mentioned, that we were condudled, foon after our landing at this place. About noon, the next day, this Mareewagee, of whom Friday ij. we had heard fo much, aftually came to the neighbour- hood of ourjjoft on ftiore; and, with him, a very confide- rable number of people of all ranks. I was informed, that he had taken this trouble, on purpofe to give^me an oppor- tunity of waiting upon him; having, probably, heard of the difpleafure I had fhewn, on my difappointment the day before. In the afternoon, a party of us, accompanied by Feenou, landed, to pay him a vifit. We found a perfon fit- ting under a large tree, near the fliore, a little to the right of the rent. A piCcc of cloth, at lead forty yards long, was fpread before him, round which a great number of people, of both fexes, were feated. It was natural ••o fuppofe, thai this was the great man ; but we were undeceived by Feenou ; who informed us, that another, who fat on a piece of mat, a little way from this Chief, to the right hand, was Maree- wagee, and he introduced us to him, who received us very kindly, and defired us to fit down by him. The perfon, who ,fat under the tree, fronting us, was called Toobou; and, when I have occafion to fpeak of him afterward, I fhall call O o 2 liim t »l: It a84 A V O Y A G E 1 O ;777- him old Toobou, to dilUnguifli him from his namcfakc, June. . *^ ' y — -vr— w* Captain Furneaux's friend. Both he and Marccwagce had a venerable appearance. The hitter is a llcndcr man, and, from his appearance, fccms to be confiderably above ihrce- fcore years of age. The former is rather corpulent, and almoft blind with a diforder of his eyes ; though not fo old. Not cxpc(5ling to meet with two Chiefs, on this occaflon, I had only brought on fliore a prefent for one. This I now found myfelf under a neceflity of dividing between them , but it happened to be pretty confiderable, and both of them feemed fatisfied. After this, we entertained them, for about an hour, with the performance of two French herns, and a drum. But they feemed mod pleafed with the firing off a piftol, which Captain Gierke had in his pockc:. Before I took my leave, the large piece of cloth was roiled up, and, with a few cocoa-nuts, prefented to me. Satuniay 14. Thc Hcxt momicg, old Toobou returned my vifit on board the Ihip. He alfo vifired Captaii, Gierke; and if the prefent we made to hhn, the evening before, was fcanty, tlic dclicicncy was nov/ made up. During this time, Maree- wagec vifitcd our people afliore; and Mr. King fliewed to hiiu every thing \vc had there. He viewed the cattle with great admiration ; and the crofs-cut faw fixed his attention for feme time. , , . . • •. ,- Toward noon, Poulaho returned from the place where we had left hhii two days before, and brought with him his fon, a youth about twelve years of age. I had his company at d'nner; but thc io!i, though prefent, was not allowed to fit down with liiin. It was very convenient to have him for my gucit. For when he was prefcnr, which was generally ihc cafe while we iluyed here, every other native was excluded THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 285 excluded from the tabic: and but few of them would re- '777' ' June. main in the cabin. Whereas, if, by chance, it happened, « — *— » that neither he nor Feenou were on board, tlie inferior Chiefs would be very importunate to be of our dining party, or to be admitted into the cabin at that time ; and then we were fo crowded, that we could not fit down to a meal with any fatisfacftion. The king was very foon reconciled to our manner of cookery. But Hill, I believe, he dined thus fre- quently with me, more for the fake of what we gave him to drink, than for what we fct before him to eat. For he had taken a liking to our wine, could empty his bottle as well as moll men, and was as cheerful over it. He now fixed his rcfidcnce at the houfe, or Malaee, by our tent ; and there he entertained our people, this evening, with a dance. To the furprile of every body, the unwieldy Poulaho en- deavoured to vie with others, in that aiflive amufcment. In the morning of the 15th, I received a mefTage from Sunday ij. Old Toobou, that he wanted to fee nic afliore. Accordingly Omai and I went to wait upon him. We found him, like an ancient patriarch, feated under the fliade of a tree, with a large piece of the cloth, made in the iflund, fpread out at full length before him ; and a number of refpei^tably looking people fitting round it. I 'e defired us to place ourfelves by him ; and then he told Omai, that the cloth, together witii a piece of red feathers, and about a dozen cocoa-nuts, were his prefcnt to me. I thanked him for the favour; and de- fired he would go on board with nic, as 1 had nothing on Ihorc to give him in return. ~ • Omai now left me, being fent for by Poululio ; and, foon after, Feenou came, and acquainted me that young Fatta- faihe, Poulaho's fon, defired to fee nie. I obeyed the fum- mons, and found the prince, and Omai, fitting under a large .(■iV ••%1| c86 A VOYAGETO 1777' June. a. large canopy of the finer fort of cloth ; with a piece of the coarfer fort, fprcad under them and before them, that was fcventy-fix yards long, and feven and a half broad. On one fide was a large old boar ; and on the other fide a heap of cocoa-nuts. A number of people were feaied round the cloth ; and, amongfl them, I obferved Mareewagee, and others of the firfl: rank. I was defired to fit down by the prince; and then Omai informed me, that he had been inftruAed by the king to tell me, that, as he and I were friends, he hoped that his fon might be joined in this friendfliip -, and that, as a token of my confent, I would accept of his prefent. I very readily agreed to the propofal ; and, it being now dinner-time, I invited them all on board. ' *; Accordingly, the young prince, Mareewagee, oldToobou, three or four inferior Chiefs, and two refpedlablc old ladies of the firft rank, accompanied me. Mareewagee was drefitd in a new piece of cloth, on the flcirts of which were fixed fix pretty large patches of red feathers. This drefs feemed to have been made, on purnofc, for this vifit ; for, as foon as he got on board, he put it off, and prefented it to me ; having, I guefs, heard that it would be acceptable, on account of the feathers. Every one of my viftter^ received from me fuch prefents, as, 1 had rcafon to believe, they were highly fatisfied with. When dinner came upon table, not one of them would fit down, or eat a bit of any thing that was ferved up. On expreffingmy furprife at this, they were all taboo, as they faid ; which word has a very comprehenfive meaning; but, in general, fignifies that a thing is forbidden. Why they were laid under fuch reftraints, at prefent, was not explained. Dinner being over, and, having gratified their curiofity, by Ihewing to them every part of the fhip, I then conduded them afhore. A I J THE PACIFIC OCEAN. As foon as the boat reached the beach, Feenou, and fome others, inflantly ftepped out. Young Fattafailie fol- lowing them, was called back by Mareewagee, who now paid I he heir apparent the fame obeifance, and in the fame manner, that I had feen it paid to the king. And •when old Toubou, and one of the old ladies, had fliewn him the fame marks of refpe<5t, he was fufTered to land. This ceremony being over, the old people flepped from my boat, into a canoe, that was waiting to carry them to their place of abode. - •' I was not forry to be prefent on this occafion, as I was thus furniflied with the moft unequivocal proofs of the fu- preme dignity of Poulaho and his fon, over the other prin- cipal Chitfs. Indeed, by this time, I had acquired fome certain information about the relaiive fituations of the fe- veral great men, whofe names have been fo often men- tioned. I now knew, that Mareewagee and old Toobou were brothers. Both of them were men of great property in the ifland, and feemed to be in high eftimation with the people ; the former, in particular, had the very honourable appellation given to him, by every body, of Motooa Tonga; that is to fay, Father of Tonga, or of his Country. The nature of his relationlhip to the king was alfo no longer a fecret to us ; for we now underilood, that he was his fa- ther-in-law ; Poulaho having married one of his daughters, by whom he had this fon ; fo that Mareewagee was the prince's grandfather. Pculaho's appearance having fatisfied us, that we had been under a miftake, in confidering Fee- nou as the fovereign of thefe iflands, we had been, at firft, much puzzled about his real rank ; but that was, by this time, afcertaincd. Feenou was one of Mareewagee*8 fons j and Tooboueitoa was another. On 287 >777« June. ^m .xiii M\ 4' ' i' 111 '???! tis ^rdP "^^''nf \ -'Mm 288 A VOYAGE TO «777' June. On my landing, I found the king, in the hoiife adjoining to our tent, along with our people who refided on fliore. The moment I got to him, he beftowed upon me a prefent of a large hog, and a quantity of yams. About the dufk of the evening, a number of men came, and, having fat down in a round group, began to ling in concert with the mufic of bamboo drums, which were placed in the centre*. There were three long ones, and two fliort. With thefe they ftruck the ground endwrife, as before defcribed. There were two others, which lay on the ground, fide by fide, and one of them was fplit or ftiivered ; on thefe a man kept beating with two fmall flicks. They fung three fongs while I flayed; and, I was told, that, after I left them, the entertainment laded till ten o'clock. They burnt the leaves of the wharra palm for a light ; which is the only thing I ever faw them make ufe of for this purpofe. While I was pafling the day in attendance on thefe great men, Mr. Anderfon, with fome others, made an excurfion into the country, which furnifhed him with the following remarks : *' To the Weftward of the tent, the country is totally uncultivated for near two miles, though quite co- vered with trees and buflies, in a natural ftate, growing with the greatefl: vigour. Beyond this is a pretty large plain, on which are fome cocoa-tre;s, and a few fmall plantations that appear to have been lately made ; and, feemingly, on ground that has never been cultivated before. Near the creek, which runs to the Weftward of the tent, the land is quite flat, and partly overflowed by the fea every I _ 1 V ■ * The fame fort of evening concert is performed round the houfe of the Chief, or Tamok, at the Caroline Iflands. " Le Tamole ne s'endort qu'au bruit d'un concert " de mufique que forme une troupe de jeunes gens, qui s'aflemblej-.t le foir, autour de " fa maifon, & qui chantent, a leur maniere, certaines poijfics," Lettres Edifiantes is' Curhufes, Tom. xv. p. 314. tide. THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 189 tide. When that retires, the furface is feen to be compofed ^777' June> of coral rock, with holes of yellowifli mud fcattfed up and \.. -.-..uj. down ; and toward the edges, where it is a little firmer, are innumerable little openings, from which ifTue as many fmall crabs, of two or three different forts, which fwarm upon the fpot, as flies upon a carcafe; but are fo nimble, that, on being approached, they difappear in an inftant, and baffle even the natives to catch any of them. At this place is a work of art, which (hews, that thefe people are capable of fome defign, and perfeverance, when they mean to accomplifh any thing. This work begins, on one fide, as a narrow caufeway, wliich, becoming gradually broader, rifes, with a gentle afcent, to the height of ten feet, where it is five paces broad, and the whole length feventy-four paces. Joined to this is a fort of circus, whofe diameter is thirty paces, and not above a foot or two higher than the caufeway that joins it, with fome trees planted in the middle. On the oppofite fide, another caufeway of the fame fort defcends ; but this is not above forty paces long, and ' is partly in ruin. The whole i' built with large coral ftones, with earth on the furface, which is quite overgrown with low trees and (hrubs ; and, from its decaying in feve- ral places, feems to be of no modern date. Whatever may have been its ufe formerly, it feems to be of none now; and all that we could learn of it from the natives was, that it belonged to Poulaho, and is called Etchee.'* On the 16th, in the morning, after vifiririg the feveral Monday i€. works now carrying on afliore, Mr. Gore, and I, took a walk into the country ; in the courfe of which nothing remark- able appeared, but our having opportunities of feeing the whole procefs of making cloth, which is the principal Vol. L P P manufacture V *•'. .iisB^H • It VSfl^H * '■■'■ . ''UtflH^^B SI,' '-Pfl^^l 2()0 June, • A VOYAGE TO manufa(5lure of thefe iflands, as well as of many others in tliis Ocean. In the narrative of my firll Voyage *, a minute (lefcription is given of this operation, as performed at Otaheite ; but the proccfs, here, differing in fome parti- culars, it miy be worth while to give the following ac- count of it: The manufa(5lurers, who are females, take the flender flalks or trunks of the paper-mulberry, which they cul- tivate for that purpofe ; and which fcldom grows more than fix or feven feet in height, and about four fingers in thicknefs. From thefe they ftrip the bark, and fcrape off the outer rind with a mufcle-lhell. The bark is then rolled up to take off the convexity which it had round the flalk, and macerated in water for fome time (they fay, a night). After this, it is laid acrofs the trunk of a fmall tree fquared, and beaten with a fquare wooden inftrument, about a foot long, full of coarfe grooves on all fides ; but, fometimes, with one that is plain. According to the fize of the bark, a piece is foon produced j but the operation is often repeated by an- other hand, or it is folded feveral times, and beat longer, which fecms rather intended to clofe than to divide its texture. When this is fufficiently effedled, it is fpread out to dry; the pieces being from four to fix, or more, feet in lengrh, and half as broad. They are then giveti to another perfon, who joins the pieces, by fmearing part of them, over with the vifcous juice of a berry, called tooo, which ferves as a glue. Having been thus lengthened, they are l.iid over a large piece of wood, with a kindof ftamp, made of a fibrous fubftance pretty clofely interwoven, placed be- neath. They then take a bit of cloth, and dip it in a juice, * Hawkefworth's CoUcdion of Voyages, Vol. ii. p. 2iO. • 3 expreffed THE PACIFIC OCEAN.' exprefled from the bark of a tree, called hkka, which they rub brifkly upon the piece that is making. This, at once, leaves a dull brown colour, and a dry glofs upon its fur- face ; the (lamp, at the fame time, making a flight impref- fion, that anfwers no other 7 arpofe that I could fee, but to make the feveral pieces, that are glued together, flick a little more firmly. In this manner they proceed, joining and ftaining by degrees, till they produce a piece of cloth, of fuch length and breadth as they want ; generally leav- ing a border, of a foot broad, at the fides, and longer at the ends, unftained. Throughout the whole, if any parts Gf the original pieces are too thin, or have holes, which is often the cafe, they glue fpare bits upon them, till they be- come of an equal thicknefs. When they want to produce a black colour, they mix the foot procured from an oily nut, called dooedooe,, with the juice of the kokkcy in different quan- tities, according to the propofed depth of the tinge. They fay, that the black fort of cloth, which is commonly moll glazed, makes a cold drefs, but the other a warm one ; and, to obtain ftrength in both, they are always careful to join the fmall pieces lengthwife, which makes it impofTible to tear the cloth in any dire<51:ion but one. On our return from the country, we met with Feenou, and took him, and another young Chief, on board to din- ner. When our fare was fet upon the table, neither of t'^em would ett a bit ; faying, that they were taboo avy, E t, after enquiring hov/ the vicSbuals had been dreffed, having found that no avy (water) had been ufcd in cooking a pig and fome yams, they both fat down, and made a very hearty meal ; and, on being affured that there was no water in the wine, they drank of it aHo. From this we con- jedlured, that, on fome account or another, they were, at P p 2 this 291 '777. June. m irt, ^^H^H k HHH ;!"■ bmB jfjH ^'* 1*^' H ,.' "ft :■;,' V ■■■L: 11 - Jl % M 29^ A VOYAGE TO >777' June, TuefJay 17. this time, forbidden to ufe water ; or, which was more pro- bable, they did not like the water we made ufe of, it being taken up out of one of their bathing-places. This was not the only time of our meeting with people that were taboo avy ; but, for what reafon, we never could tell with any de- gree of certainty. • Next day, the 17th, was fixed upon by Marcewagee, for giving a grand Haiva, or entertainment ; to which we were all invited. !?or this purpofe a large fpace had been cleared, before the temporary hut of this Chief, near our poft, as an area where the performances were to be exhibited. In the morning, great multitudes of the natives came in from the country, every one carrying a pole, about fix feet long, upon his fhoulder; and at each end of every pole, a yam was fufpended. Thefe yams and poles were depofited on' each fide of the area, fo as to form two large heaps, deco- rated with different forts of fmall fifli, and piled up to the greateft advantage. They were Mareewagee's prefent to Captain Gierke and mej and it was hard to fay, whether the wood for fuel, or the yams for food, were of moft value to. us. As for the fifh, they might ferve to pleafe the fight, but were very oflTenfive to the fm^ll; part of them having been kept two or three days, to be prefented to us on this occafion. Every thing being thus prepared, about eleven o'clock, they began to exhibit various dances, which they call matt The mufic * confifted, at firft, of feventy men as a chorus, who fat down ; and amidfl: ihem were placed three inftru*- ments, which we called drums, though very unlike them» They are large cylindrical pieces of wood, or trunks of * Mr. Anderfon's defcription of the entertainments of this day being' much fuller than Captain Cooii's, it has been adopted as on a former occafion. trees. THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 893 trees, from three to four feet long, fome twice as thick as an ordinary fizcd man, and fome fmaller, hollowed entirely out, but clofc^ at both ends, and open only by a chink, about three inches broad, running almoft the whole length of ihe drums J by which opening, the reft of the wood is certainly hollowed, though the operation mufl be difficult. 1 his in- ftrumeni is called naffa\ and, with the chink turned toward' them, they fit and beat ftrongly upon it, with two cylindrical pieces of hard wood, about a foot long, and as thick as the wrift ; by which means they produce a rude, thpugh loud and powerful found. They vary the ftrength and rate of their beating, at different parts of the dance j and alfo change the tones, by beating in the'middle, or near the end, of their drum. The firft dance confifted of four ranks, of twenty-fbur men each, holding in their hands a little, thin, light, wooden inftrument, above two feet long, and, in fliape, not unlike a fmall oblong paddle. With thefe, which are* called pagge, they made a great many different motions ; fuch as pointing them toward the ground on one fide, at the fame time inclining their bodies that way, from which they were fliifted to the oppofite fide in the fame manner ; then pafling them quickly from one hand to the other, and twirling-; them about very dextroufly; with a variety of other ma- noeuvres, all which were accompanied by correfponding at- titudes oF the body. Their motions were, at firft, flow, but quickened as the drums beat fafter; and they recited fen-- tences, in a mufical tone, the whole time, which were an- fwered by the chorus ; but at the end of a fliort fpace they' all joined, and finifhed with a fhout> After ceafing about two or three minutes, they began as- before, and continued, with fliort intervals, above a ouarter o£ >777- June. \i 294 A VOYAGE TO « ' >777« June. of an hour ; when the rear rank dividing, fliifted themfelvcs very flowly round eacli end, and, meeting in the front, formed the firft rank j the whole number continuing to re- cite the fentences as before. The other ranks did the fame fucceffively, till that which, at firft, was the front, became the rear j and the evoludon continued, in the fame manner, lill the laft rank regained its firft fituation. They then began a much quicker dance (though flow at fiift), and fung for about ten minutes, when the whole body divided into two parts, retreated a little, and then approached, forming a fort of circular figure, which finiflied the dance ; the drums being removed, and the chorus going off the field at the fame time. The fecond dance had only two drums, with forty men for a chorus ; and the dancers, or rather adlors, confifted of two ranks, the foremoft having feventeen, and the other fif- teen perfons. Feenou was at their head, or in the middle of the front rank, which is the principal place in thefe cafes. They danced and recited fentences, with fome very fliort in- tervals, for about half an hour, fometimes quickly, fome- times more flowly, but with fuch a degree of exaAnefs, as if all the motions were made by one man, which did them great credit. Near the clofe, the back rank divided, came round, and took the place of the front, which again re- fumed its fituation, as in the firft dance ; and when they finiflied, the drums and chorus, as before, went off. Three drums (which, at leaft, took two, and fometimes three men to carry them) were now brought in j and fe- venty men fat down as a chorus to the thirvl dance. This confifted of two ranks, of fixteen perfons each, with young Toobou at their head, who was richly ornamented with a ..- fort n THE PACIFIC OCEAN. fort of garment covered with red feathers. Thefe danced, fung, and twirled the pagge, as before ; but, in general, much quicker, and performed fo well, that they had the conftant applaufes of the fpedators. A motion that met with particular approbation, was one in which they held the face afide, as if afhamcd, and the p^gge before it. The back iank clofed before the front one, and that again re- fumed its place, as in the two former dances ; but then they began again, formed a triple row, divided, retreated to each end of the area, and left the grcatell part of the ground clear. At that inftant, iwo men entered very haflily, and ex- ercifed the clubs which they ufe in battle. They did this, by firft twirling them in their hands, and making circular ftrokes before them with great force and quickncfs ; but fo fki'fully managed, that, though Handing quite clofe, they never in- terfered. They Ihifted their clubs from hand to hand, with great dexterity ; and, after continuing a little time, kneeled, and made different motions, toiling the clubs up in the air, which they caught as they fell -, and then went off as haftily as they entered. Their heads were covered with pieces of white cloth, tied at the crown (almoft like a night- cap) with a wreath of foliage round the forehead ; but they had only very fmall pieces of white cloth tied about their waifts ; probably, that they might be cool, and free from every incumbrance or weight. A perfon with a fpear, dreffed like the former, then came in, and in the fame hafty manner; looking about eagerly, as if in fearch of fomebody to throw it at. He then ran haftily to one iide of the crowd in the front, and put himfelf in a threatening attitude, as if he meant to flrike with his fpear at oneof them, bending the knee a little, and trembling, as it were with rage. He continued in this manner only a few feconds, when he moved to the ■ " ' ' ' • . / • ' . ■ • ♦' other ^95 I777'' June. M ''i I m 11 ill II III l:|p| iNi III H ': '1 1 i''iii I'lil 1 ,y| ag^ A VOYAGE TO '•'77- Ju.ie. V Other fide, and having flood in the fame pofture there, ior the fame fliort time, retreated from the ground, as faft as when he made liis appearance. The dancers, who had di- vided into two parlies, kept repeating fomething flovvly all this while; and now advanced, and joined again, ending with univerfal applaufe. It fliould fcem, that this dance was conlidcred as one of their capital performances, if we might judge from fome of the principal people being engaged in it. For one of the drums was beat by Futtafaihe, the bro- tner of Poulaho, another by Feenou, and the third, which did not belong to the chorus, by Mareewagee himfelf, at the entrance of his hut. The laft dance had forty men, and two drums, as a chorus. It confided of fixty men, who had not danced before, dif- pofed in three rows, having twenty -four in front. But, be- fore they began, we were entertained with a pretty long preliminary harangue, in which the whole body made re- fponfes to a fingle perfon who fpoke. They recited fen- tences (perhaps verles) alternately with the chorus, and made many morions with the pagge^ in a very brifk mode, which were all applauded with mareeai! a.nd fvfo^ge ! words exprcfllng two dilfcrent degrees of praife. They divided into two bodies, with their backs to each other; foimed again, (hified their ranks, as in the other dances ; divided and retreated, making room for two champions, who ex- ercifed their clubs as before; and after them two others: the dancers, all the time, reciting llowly in turn with the chorus J after which they advanced, and finiflied. Thefe dances, if they can properly be called fo, lafted from eleven till near three o'clock ; and though they were, doubtlefs, intcn led, particularly, either in honour of us, or to flievv a fpecimen of their dexterity, vail numbers of 4 . , their )k THE PACIFIC OCEAN. their own people attended as fpecT:ators. Their numbers could not be computed cxac5lly, on account of the ir equality of the ground ; but, by reckoning the inner circle, and the number in depth, which was between twenty and thirty in many places, wc fuppofed that there muft be near four thoufand. At the fame time, there were round the trading place ai the tent, and flraggling about, at leafl as many more ; and fome of us computed, that, at this time, there were not lefs than ten or twelve thoufand people, in our neighbourhood ; that is, within the compafs of a quarter of a mile i drawn together, for the moll part, by mere curiofity. ,- , , ■ ■ ■•<■•, - i., -:» -. It- is with regret I mention, that we could not underftand what was fpoken, while we were able to fee what was a(5led, in thefe amufements. This, doubtlefs, would have afforded us much information, as to the genius and cuftoms of thefe people. It was obfervable, th-'t, though the fpedlators al- ways approved of the various motions, when well made, a great fhare of the pleafure they received feemed to arife from the fentimental part, or what the performers delivered in their fpeeches. However, the mere ading part, inde- pendently of the f ntences repeated, was well worth our no- tice, both with refpe(5l to the cxtenfive plan on which it was executed, and to the various motions, as well as the exa(5t unity, with which they were performed. The drawings which Mr. Wc jber made of the performances at Hapaec> and which are equally applicable to thofe exhibited now, will ferve much to illuftrate the account here given of the order in which the acStors range themfelves. But neither pencil nor pen can defcribc the numerous actions and motions, the fingularity of which was not greater, than Vol. I. <^q was 297 '777. June. iiii V 1. i! ■ »*4 K m spS \777' June. AVOYAGETO was the eafc and gracefulncfs with which they were performed. At night, we were entertained with the 6omni, or night dances, on a fpace before Feenou's temporary habitation. They lafted about three hours ; in which time we had about twelve of them performed, much after the fame manner as thofe at Hapaee. But, in two, that were performed by wo- men, a number of men came and formed a circle within thcir's. And, in another, confiding of twenty-four men, there were a number of motions with the hands, that we had not feen before, and were highly applauded. The mufic was, alfo, once changed, in the courfe of the night ; and in one of the dances, Feenou appeared at the head of £fty men who had performed at Hapaee, and he was well drefTed with linen, a large piece of gauze, and fome little pidlurcs hung round his neck. But it was evident, after the diverfions were clofed, that we had put thefe poor people, or rather that they had put themfelves, to much inr- convenience. For being drawn together on this unin- habited part of their iiland, numbers of them were obliged to lie down and ileep under the buflies, by the fide of a tree^ or of a canoe -, nay man3'^ either lay down in the open air, which they are not fond of, or walked about all the night. The whole of this entertainment was conduced with far better order, than could have been expedted in fo large an aflembly. Amongft fuch a multitude, there muft be a number of ill-difpofed people; and we, hourly, experienced it. All our care and attention did not prevent their plunder- ing us, in every quarter; and that, in the moft daring and infolent manner. There was hardly any thing that they did not attempt to fteal j and yet, as the crowd was always fo great. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. «99 June. great, 1 would not allow the fcntries to fire, loft tlic inno- cent fhould fiiffcr for the guilty. They once, at noon day, ventured to aim at taking an anchor from oft' the Difcovcry's bows ; and they would certainly have fucceedcd, if the flock had not hooked one of the chain plates in lowering down the Ihip's fide, from which they could not difengage it by hand; and tackles were things they were unacquainted with. The only aft of violence they were guilty of, was the break- ing the fhoulder bone of one of our goats, fo that fhc died foon after. This lofs fell upon themfelves, as fhc was one of thofe that I intended to leave upon the ifland j but of this, the perfon who did it, was ignorant. Earlv in the morning of the i8th, an incident happened, Wednef. i8. that ilrougly marked one of their cuftoms. A man got out of a canoe into tLe quarter gallery of the Refolution, and Hole from thence a pewter bafon. He was difcovered, pur* fued, and brought along-fide the ihip. On this occafion, three old women, who were in the canoe, made loud la- mentations over the prifoner, beating their breafts and faces in a moft violent manner, with the infidc of their fifts ; and all this was done without fhedding a tear. This mode of cxprefling grief is what occafions the mark which almoft all this people bear on the face, over the cheek bones. The repeated blows which they inflift upon this part, abrade the fkin, and make even the blood flow out in a conflderable quantity ; and when the wounds are recent, they look as if a hollow circle had been burnt in. On many occafions, they aftually cut this part of the face with an inflrument ; in the fame manner as the people of Otaheite cut their heads. . , , , This day, I beftowed on Mareewagee fome prefents, in return for thofe we had received from him the day before; Q^q 2 and i ■ l\ 'fi^i m m 300 A VOYAGE TO >777- June. and as the entertainments which he had then exhibited for our amufement, called upon us to make fome exhibition in our way, 1 ordered the party of marines to go through iheir exercife, on the fpot wh'^re his dances had been performed ; and, in the evening, played off fome fireworks at tht fame place. Poulaho, with all the principal Chiefs, and a grsai number of people, of all denominations, were prefent. The platoon firing, which was executed tolerably well, feemed to give "hem pleafure ; but they were loft in aftonifliment when they beheld our water rockets. They paid but little attenaon to the fife and drum, or French horns, that played during the intervals. The king fat behind every body, becaufe no one is allowed to fit behind him; and- that his view might not be obftrudled, nobody fat immedi- ately before him j but a lane, as it were, was made by the people from him, quite down to the fpace allotted for the fireworks. ;{ ii--r • hi expe(ftation of this evening Ihew, the circle of natives about our tent being pretty large, they engaged, the greateft part of the afternoon, in l'.~.ring and wrellling ; the firft of which exercifes they call fangatooa, and the fccond foohoo. "When any of them choofes to wreftle, he gets up from one fide of the ring, and croflTes the ground in a fort of mea- fured pace, clapping fmartly on the elbow joint of one arm, which is bent, and produces a hollow found ; that is rec- koned the challenge. If no perfon comes out from the oppo- fite fide ro engage him, he returns, in the fame manner, and fits down ; but fometimcs ftands clapping, in the midft of the ground, to provoke fome one to come out. If an opponent appear, they come together with marks of the greateft good-nature, generally fmiling, and taking time to adjuft the piece of cloth which is faftcncd round the waift. .9 '^^^^y THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 301 They then lay hold of each other by this girdle, with a hand on each fide ; and he who fucceeds in drawing his antagonift to him, immediately tries to lift him upon .his breaft, and throw him upon his back ; and if he be able to turn round with him two or three times, in that pofition, before he throws him, his dexterity never fails of procuring plaudits from the fpec^atcs. If they be more equally matched, they clofe foon, and endeavour to throw each other by entwining their legs, or lifting each other from the ground ; in which ftruggles they flicw a prodigious ex- ertion of flrength, every mufclc, as it were, being ready to burft with ftraining. When one is thrown, he immediately quits the field, but the vi(Stor fits down for a few feconds, then gets up, and goes to the fide he came from, who pro- claim the victory aloud, in a fentence delivered flowly, and in i mufical cadence. After fitting a fhort fpace, he rifea again and challenges j when fometimes feveral antagonifts make tleir appearance; but he his the privilege of choo- fing which of them he picafes to wrcllle with ; and has, likewife, the preference of challenging again, if he Ihould throw his adverfary, until he himfelf be vanquifhed ; and then the oppofite fide fing the fong of vi(5tory in favour of their champion. It al fo often happens, that five or fix rife from each fide, and challenge together; in which cafe, it is common to fee three or four couple engaged on the field at once. But it is aflonifliing to fee what temper they prcfcrve in this exercife ; for we obferved no inftanccs of their leav- ing the fpot, with the leafl: difpleal'urc in their counte- nances. When they find, that they arc fo equally matched as not to be likely to throw each other, they leave oil by mutual conicnr. And if the fall of one is not fair, or if it docs not appear very clearly who has had the advantage, both 1777- June. 30* »777' June. A VOYAGE TO ;• both fides fing the vidlory, and then tliey engage again. But no perfon, wlio has been vanquifhed, can engage with his conqueror a fecond time. .. The boxers advance fide-ways, changing the fide at every pace, with one arm flretched fully out before, the other be- hind ; and holding a piece of cord in one hand, which they wrap firmly about it, when they find an antagonift, or elfe have done fo before they enter. This, I imagine, they do, to prevent a diflocation of the hand or fingers. Their blows are directed chiefly to the head ; but fometimes to the fides ; and are dealt out with great adivity. They fhift fides, and box equally well with both hands. But one of their favourite and moft dextrous blows, is, to turn round on their heel, juft as they have ftruck their antagonift, and to gjive him another very fmart one with the other hand back- ward. • . The boxing matches feldom laft long; and the parties either leave off together, or one acknowledges his being beat. But they never fing the fong of vidory in thefe cafes, unlefs one flrikes his adverfary to tiie ground ; which fliews, that, of the two, wreftling is their moft approved diverfion. Not only boys engage, in both the exercifes, but frequently little girls box very obftinately for a fliort time. In all which cafes, it doth not appear, that they ever confider it as the fmalleft difgrace to be vanquiflied ; and the perfon overcome fits down, with as much indifference, as if he had never entered the lifts. Some of our people ventured to con- tend with them in both exercifes, but were always worfted; except in a few inftances, where it appeared, that the fear they were in of offending us, contributed more to the vic- tory, than the fuperiority of the perfon they engaged. t ^ The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 303: J777- June. The cattle, which we had brought, and which were all on ftiore, however carefully guarded, I was fenfible, run no fmall rifk, when I confidered the ihievifh difpofition of many of the natives, and their dexterity in appropriating to them- fclves by ftealth, what they faw no profper Omai was not very well verfed in fuch things himfelf. As I intended that the above prefents fliould remain with the other cattle, till we were ready to fail, I defired each of the Chiefs to fend a man or two to look after their refpc(5tive animals, along with my people, in order that they might be better acquainted with them, and with the manner ^ • of ^M n.ii H,i 3^4 A VOYAGE TO 1777. June. Friday 20. of treating them. The king and Feenou did fo ; but neither Mareewagee, nor any other perfon for him, took the lead notice of the fheep afterward ; nor did old Toobou attend at this meeting, though he was invited, and was in the neigh- bourhood. I had meant to give him i he goats, viz. a ram and two ewes ; which, as he was fo indifferent about them, I added to the king's fhare. It foon appeared, that fome were diffaiisfied with this allotment of our animals ; for, early next morning, one of our kids, and two turkey-cocks, were milling. I could not be fo limpk as to fuppofe, that this was merely an acci- dental lofs ; and I was determined to have them again. The firft ftep I took was to feize on three canoes that hap- pened to be along-fide the fhips. I then went afliore, and, having found the king, his brother, Feenou, and fome other Chiefs, in the houfe that we occupied, I immediately put a guard over them, and gave them to underftand, that they muft remain under reftraint, till not only the kid and the turkeys, but the other things, that had been ftolen from us, at different times, were reftored. They concealed, as well as they could, their feeUngs, on finding themfelves prifoners ; and, having allured me, that every thing fliould be reftored, as I defired, fiit down to drink their kava, fcemingly much at their eafe. It was not long before an axe, and an iron wedge, were brought to me. In the mean time, fome armed natives began to gather behind the houfe ; but, on a part of our guard marching againft them, they difperfed ; and I advifed the Chiefs to give order3, that no more fliouId appear. Such or- ders were accordingly given by them, and they were obeyed. On afking them to go aboard with me to dinner, they readily confented. But fome having afterward objedlcd to the king's going, he inftantly rofe up, and declared he . ' would ■'!,.utJ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. would be the firfl man. Accordingly wc came on board. I kept them. there till near four o'clock, when I condutHied them afliore ; , and, foon after, the kid, and one of the turkey-cocks, were brought back. The' other, they faid, fliould be reftored the next morning. I believed this would happen, and releafed both them and the canoes. After the Chiefs had left us, I walked out with Omai, to obferve how the people about us fared ; for this was the time of their meals. I found that, in general, they were at fliort commons. Nor is this to be wondered at, fince moil of the yams, and other provifions which they brought with them, were fold to us; and they never thought of re- turning to their own habitations, while they could find any fort of fubfiftence in our neighbourhood. Our ftation was upon an uncultivated point of land ; fo that there .were none of the iflanders, who, properly, refided within half a mile of us. But, even at this diilance, the multitude of flrangers being fo great, one might have expelled, that every houfe would have been much crowded. It was quite otherwife. The families refiding there were as much left to thenielves, as if there had not been a fupernumerary vifiter near them. All the flrangers lived in little tempo- rary flicds, or under trees and buflies ; and the cocoa-trees were dripped of their branches, to ere(5t habitations for the Chiefs. . In this walk wc met with about half a dozen women, in one place, at fupper. Two of the company, I obfcrved, being fed by the others, on our afliing the reafon, they faid taboo mattce. On farther inquiry we found, that one of them had, two months before, walhed the dead corpfe of a Chief ; and that, on this account, flie was not to handle any food for five months. The other had performed the Vo L. I. R r fame soj: '777- June. ■| ji'f ."•', ■ 1 m 3o6 A VOYAGE TO '777- fame ofllce to the corpfc of another perfon of inferior rank. Juno. ' * ' *- ■» - - ' and was now under the fame rcftriftion; but not for fo long a time. At another place, hard by, we faw another woman fed ; and we learnt, that fhe had ..flifted in wafliing the corpfe of the above-mentioned Chief. Saturday 21. Early the next morning, the king came on board, to in- vite me to an entertainment, which he propofed to give the fame day. He had already been under the barber's hands ; his head being all befmeared with red pigment, in order to redden his hair, which was naturally of a dark brown colour. After breakfaft, I attended him to the fhore; and we found his people very bufy, in two places, in the front of our area, fixing, in an upright and fquare pofition, thus [ o o ]» ^our very long pofts, near two feet from each other. The fpace between the pofts was afterward filled up with yams ; and as they went on filling it, they fatten- ed pieces of fticks acrofs, from poft to poft, at the diftance of about every four feet ; to prevent the pofts from feparating, by the weight of the inclofed yams, and alfo to get up by. When the yams had reached the top of the firft pofts, they fattened others to them, and fo continued till each pile was the height of thirty feet, or upward. On the top of one, they placed two baked hogs ; and on the op of the other, a living one ; and another they tied by the legs, half-way up. It was matter of curiofity to obfcrve, with what facility and difpatch thefe two piles were raifed. Had our feamen been ordered to execute fuch a work, they would have fworn that it could not be performed with- out carpenters ; and the carpenters would have called to their aid a dozen different forts of tools, and have ex- pended, at leafl:, a hundred weight of nails ; and, after all, it would have employed them as many days, as it did I " thefc THE PACIFIC OCHAN. 3^7 thefe people hours. But feamen, like mod other amphi- bious animals, are always the moft helplcfs on land. After they had completed thefe two piles, they made fevcral other heaps of yams and bread-fruit on each fide of the area ; to which were added a turtle, and a large qiiantity of excellent fifh. Ali this, with a piece of cloth, a mat, and fomc red feathers, was the king's prefent tome; and he feemed to picque himfelf on exceeding, as he really did, Feenou's liberality, which I experienced at Hapace. • - { About one o'clock they began the tfiai, or dances ; the firfl: of which was almoft a copy of the firfl that was exhibited at Marecwagee's entertainment. The fecond was conduced by Captain Furneaux's Toobou, who, as we mentioned, had alfo danced there; and in this, four or five women were in- troduced, who went through the feveral parts with as much exacftnefs as the men. Toward the end, the performers di- vided to leave room for two champions, who exercifed their clubs, as defcribed on a former occafion. And, in the third dance, which was the laft now prefented, two more men, with their clubs, difplayed their dexterity. The dances were fucceeded by wreftling and boxing ; and one man en- tered the lifts with a fort of club, made from the ftem of a cocoa-leaf, which is firm and heavy; but could find no an- tagonift to engage him at fo rough a fport. At night we had the bomai repeated ; in which Poulaho himfelf danced, dreflTed in Englifli manufadlure. But neither thefe, nor the dances in the day-time, were fo confiderable, nor carried on with fo much fpirit, as Feenou's, or Marecwagee's ; and, therefore, there is Icfs occafion to be more particular in our defcription of them. ' - In order to be prefent the whole time, I dined afhore. The king fat down with us ; but he neither eat nor drank. R r 2 I found »777- June. ' ■ If m n n ,.v*.' A ^f v» 1777' June. A V O Y A G^E T O I found that this was owing to the prefcnce of a female, whom, at his defire, I had admitted to the dining party; and who, as we afterward underftood, had fuperior rank to him- felf. As foon as this great perfonage had dined, flie flepped up to the king, who put his hands to her feet ; and then fhe retired. He immediately dipped his fingers into a glafs of wine, and then received the obeifance of all her followers. This was the lingle inflance we ever obferved of his paying this mark of reverence to any perfon. At the king's defire, I ordered fome fireworks to be, played off in the evening; but, unfortunately, being damaged, this exhibition did not anfwer expe(5tation. • U » ?' ' ' ' ' ' )' CHAP. !• , >• , ^, tHE PACIFIC OCEAN. 309. ; r ^ .m 312 A VOYAGE TO '777- jiini'. our boat. I dcfiicd to fee their method of ilfhing ; which they readily complied with. A Ihoal of fifli was fuppofed to be upon one of the banks, which they inftantly inclofed in a long net like a fcinc, or fct-net. This the fiflicrs, one getiing into the water out of each boat, furroundcd with the triangular nets in their hands ; with which they fcoopcd the filh out of the fcine, or caught them as they attempted to leap over it. They fliewed us the whole procefs of this operation (which fcemed to be a furc one), by throwing in feme of the fifli.thcy had already caught ; for, at this time, there happened to be none upon the bank that was in- clofed. Leaving the prince and his fifliing party, we proceeded to the bottom of the bay, and landed where we had done be- fore, on our fruitlefs errand to fee Mareewagce. As foon as we got on (hore, the king defired Omai to tell me, that I need be under no apprehenfions about the boat, or any thing in her, for noc a fmgle article would be louched by any one ; and we afterward found this to be the caiie. We were immediately conducfted to one of Poulaho's houfes not far off, and near the public one, or vtalaee, in which we had been, when we full vifitcd Mooa. This, though pretty large, fcemed to be his private habitation, and was fituated within a plantation. The king took his feat at one end of the houfe, and the people, who came to vifit him, fat down, as they arrived, in a femicircle at the other end. The firfl: thing done, was to prepare a bowl of kava, and to order feme yams to be baked for us. While thefe were getting ready, fome of us, accompanied by a few of the king's at- tendants, and Omai as our interpreter, walked out to take a view of d^fiatooka, or burying-place, which we had obferved to be almoft clofc by the houfe, and was much more exten- ' ' five, / THE PACIFIC OCEAN. five, and fccmingly of more confcqucncc, than any wc had I'ccn at the other iflands. We were toUl, tliat it bclon^^cd to the king. It confiiled of three pretty hirgc houCes, fituated upon a riling ground, or rather juft by the brink ol- it, with a fniuU one, at i'omc diflancc, all ranged longitudinally. The middle houfe of the three Tirll, was, by much, the largeft, and placed in a fquarc, twenty-four paces by twenty- eight, railed about three feet. The other houfes were placed on little mounts, raiCed artificially to the fame height. The floors of thclc houfes, as alfo the tops of the mounts round them, were covered with loofe, fine pebbles, and the whole was inclofed by large flat ftones * of hard coral rock, properly hewn, placed on their edges ; one of which ftones meafured twelve feet in length, two in breadth, and above one in thicknefs. One of the houfes, contrr.ry to what wc had feen before, was open on one fide ; and within it were two rude, wooden bufts of men ; one near the entrance, and the other farther in. On inquiring of the natives, who had followed us to the ground, but durft not enter here. What thcfc images were intended for ? they made us as fenfiblc as wc could wifli, that they were merely memorials of fome Chiefs who had been buried there, and not the re- prefcntations of any deity. Such monuments, it fliould feem, are feldom raifed ; for thefc had, probably, been cre777. June. been wounded, but not dangeroufly, with a mufkct ball. I never could find out how this muflcet happened to be charged with ball ; and there were people enough ready to fwear, that its contents were only fmall fhot. Mr. Anderfon's account of the excurfion, juft mentioned, will fill up an interval of two days, during which nothing of note happened, at the fhips : " Mr. King and I went, on the 30th, along with Futtafaihe as vifiters to his houfe, which Monday 30. is at Mooa, very near that of his brother Poulaho. A fliort time after we arrived, a pretty large hog was killed ; which is done by repeated llrokes on the head. The hair was then fcraped ofF, very dextroufly, with , the fharp edge of pieces of fplit bamboo ; taking the entrails out at a large oval hole cut in the belly, by the fame fimple inflrument. Before this, they had prepared an oven ; which is a large hole dug in the earth, filled at the bottom with ftones, about the fize of the fift, over which a fire is made till they are red hot. They took fome of thefe ftones, wrapt up in leaves of the bread-fruit tree, and filled the hog's belly, fluffing in a quantity of leaves, to prevent their falling our, and putting a plug of the fame kind in the anus. The carcafe was then placed on fome flicks laid acrofs the flones, in a ftanding pofturc, and covered with a great quantity of plantain leaves. After which, they dug up the earth, all round ; and having thus eiFedlually clofed the oven, the operation of baking required no farther interference. In the mean time, we walked about the country, but met with nothing remarkable, except a fatooka of one houfe, flanding on an artificial mount, at leaft thirty feet high. A little on one fide of it, was a pretty large open area ; and, not far off, was a good deal of uncultivated ground ; which, on inquiring, why it lay wafte ; our guides feemed to fay, Vol, I. T t belonged '"hi Saa A VOYAGE TO J777- lune. belonged to the faiooka (which was Poulaho's), and was not, by any means, to be touched. There was alfo, at no great diftance, a number of etooa trees, on which clung vaft num- bers of the large ternate bats, making a difagrceablc noife. We could not kill any, at this time, for want of mulkets ; but fome, ;ha. were got at Annamooka, meafured near three f - w' i the wings were extended. On our return- ing to Fu .if'aih :'f houfe, he ordered the hog, that had been drelTcd, to be prouwiced, with f^veral bafkets of baked yams, and fome cocoa-nuts. But v/e found, that, inftead of his entertaining us, we were to entertain him j the property of the feaft being entirely transferred to us, as his guefts, and we were to difpofe of it as we plcafed. The fame perfon who cleaned the hog in the morning, now cut it up (but not before we defired him), in a very dexterous manner, with a knife of fplit bamboo ; dividing the feveral parts, and hitting the joints^ with a quicknefs and fkill that furprized us very much. The whole was fet down before us, though at leaft fifty pounds weight, until we took a fmall pieca away, and defired, that they would (hare the reft amongft the people fitting round. But it was not without a great many fcruples they did that at laft; and then rhey afked, what particular perfons they fhouid give it to. However, they were very well pleafed, when they found, that it was not contrary to any cuftom of ours ; fome carrying off the portion they had received, and others eating it upon the fpot. It was with great difiiculty, that we could prevail upon Futtafaihe himfelf to eat a fmall bit. After dinner, we went with him, and five or fix people, his attendants, toward the place where Poulaho's mourning ceremony was tranfa(5led, the laft time we were at Mooa ; but we did not enter the inclofure. Every perfon who went 4 with THE PACIFIC OCEAM. ;23 with us, had the mat tied over his cloth, and fome leaves about the neck, as had been done on the former occafion ; and when we arrived at a large open boat-houfe, where a few people were, they threw away their leaves, fiit down before it, and gave their cheeks a few gentle ftrokes with the fill; after which they continued fitting, for about ten minmcs, with a very grave appearance, and then difperfed, without having fpoken a fingle woj , This explained what Poulaho had mentioned about Tooge-y x\ ugh, from the ope- ration only lading a few fcconds, i.c had not been obferved to perform it. And this feems to be only a continuation of the mourning ceremony, by way of condolence. For, upon inquiring, on whofe account i was now performed ; we were told, that it was for a Chief who had died at Vavaoo, fome time ago ; that they had pracflifed it ever fince, and Ihould continue to do fo, for a confiderable time longer. In the evening, we had a pig, drefTed as the hog, with yams and cocoa-nuts, brought for fupper ; and Futtafaihe finding, that we did not like the fcruples they had made before, to accept of any part of the entertainment, afked us immediately to fhare it, and give it to whom we pleafed. When fupper was over, abundance of cloth was brought for us to fleep in ; but we were a good deal difturbed, by a fingular inftance of luxury, in which their principal men indulge themfelves; that of being beat while they are aflccp. Two women fat by Futtafaihe, and performed this operation, which is called tooge tooge^ by beating brifkly on his body and legs, with both fifts, as on a drum, till he fell afleep, and con- tinuing it the whole night, with fome fhort intervals. Wliea once the perfon is afleep, they abate a little in the ftrength and quicknefs of the beating ; but rcfume it, if they obfcrvc any appearance of his awaking. In the morning, \vc found T t 2 that June. \m 3H A VOYAGE TO »777. June. July. Tuciday i. that Futtafaihe's women relieved each other, and went to flcep by turns. In any other country, it would be fuppofcd, tliat fuch a practice would put an end to all rcfl ; but here it certainly adls as an opiate ; and is a flrong proof of what habit may cffe(5t. The noife of this, however, was not the only thing that kept us awake ; for the people, who pafled the night in the houfe, not only converfed amongft each other frequently, as in the day ; but all got up before it was light, and made a hearty meal on fiPi and yams, which were brought to them by a perfon, who feemed to know very well the appointed time for this nodurnal re- frcflimcnt. y Next morning we fet out with Futtafaihe, and walked down the Eaft fide of the bay, to the point. The country, all along this fide, is well cultivated ; biit, in general, not fo much inclofed as at Mooa ; and amongft many other plantain fields that we pafled, there was one at leaft a mile Jong, which was in excellent order, every tree growing with great vigour. We found, that, in travelling, Futta- faihe exercifed a power, though by no means wantonly, which pointed out the great authority of fuch principal men ; or is, perhaps, only annexed to thofe of the royal family. For he fent to one place for fifli ; to another for yams ; and fo on, at other places ; and all his orders were obeyed with the greateft readinefs, as if he had been abfolutc mafter of the people's property. On coming to the point, the natives mentioned fomething of one, who, they faid, had been fired at by fome of our people ; and, upon our wifliing to fee him, rhey conducted us to a houfc, where we found a man, who had been fliot through the ftioulder, but not dangcroufly ; as the ball had entered a litfllle above the inner part of the collar bone, and pafTed out obliquely backward. 1 We 3«5 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. We were furc, from the ftate of ^he wound, that he was the peribn who had been fired at by one ot the fentincls, three days before ; though pofitive orders had been given, that none of them fhould load their pieces with any thing but fmall fhot. We gave fome dire<5lions to his friends how to ma- nage the wound, to which no appHcaiion had been made; and they feemed pleafcd, when we told them it would gee well in a certain time. But, on our going away, they alked lis to fend the wounded man fome yams, and other things for food ; and in fuch a manner, that we could not help thinking they confidered it to be our duty to fupport him, till he fhould get well. In the evening we croflTed the bay to our flation, in a canoe, which Futtafaihe had exercifed his prerogative in procuring, by calling to the firft that pafled by. He had alfo got a large hog at this place j and brought a fervant from his houfe with a bundle of cloth, which he wanted •us to take with us, as a prefent from him. But the boat being fmall, we objedled ; and he ordered it to be brought over to us the next day.'* I had prolonged my flay at this ifland, on account of the approaching eclipfe ; but, on the ad of July, on looking Wcdnef. 2, at the micrometer belonging to the board of longitude, I found fome of the rack work broken, and the inftrument ufelefs till repaired ; which there was not time to do before it was intended to be ufed. Preparing now for our de- parture, I got on board, this day, all the cattle, poultry, and other animals, except fuch as were deftined to remain. I . had defigned to leave a turkey-cock and henj but having now only two of each undifpofed of, one of the hens, . through the ignorance of one of my people, was ftrangled, . and i PI ' il 1 n i' ■(■. 2 1 ■ir'^-B 111 M •< :^|i^ ii^ii 7- . i,v,.,!. i ■' 'If «777- July. ^26 A V O Y A G E T O and died upon the fpot. I had brought three turkey-hens to thcfc illands. One was killed, as above mentioned; and the other, by an ufclefs dog belonging to one of the oflicers. Thefe two accidents put it out of my power to leave a pair here ; and, at the fame time, to carry the breed to Ota- heitc, for which ifland they were originally intended. I was forry, afterward, that I did not give the preference to Tongataboo, as the prcfent would have been of more value there than at Otaheite ; for the natives of the former ifland, I am perfuadcd, would have taken more pains to multiply the breed. Thurfday 3. The ncxt day we took up our anchor, and moved the fliips behind Pangimodoo, that we might be ready to take the advantage of the firft favourable wind, to get through he narrows. The king, who was one of our company, this day, at dinner, I obferved, took particular notice of the plates. This occafioned me to make him an oflTer of one, either of pewter, or of earthen ware. He chofe the firft ; and then began to tell us the feveral ufcs to which he in- tended to apply it. Two of them are fo extraordinary, that I cannot omit mentioning them. He faid, that, whenever he fhould have occafion to vifit any of the other iflands, he would leave this plate behind him at Tongataboo, as a fort of reprcfentative, in his abfence, that the people might pay it the fame obeifance they do to himfelf in pcrfon. He was afkcd, what had been ufually employed for this pur- pofe, before he got this plate ; and we had the fatisfaftion of learning from him, that this fingular honour had hither- to been conferred on a wooden bowl in which he wafhed his hands. The other extraordinary ufe to which he meant to apply it in the room of his wooden bowl, was to difcover a thief. He faid, that, when any thing was ftolen, and the thief 'I I' THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 327 in »777- July. thief could not be found out, the people were all afTemblcd together before him, when he waflied his hands in water in this ve/Tcl ; alter which it was cleaned,- and then the whole multitude advanced, one after another, and touched it in the fame manner that they touch his foot, when they pay him obeilancc. If the guilty pcrl'on touched it, he died imme- diately upon the fpot } not by violence, but by the hand of Providence ; and if any one rcfufed to touch it, his rcfufal was a clear proof that he was the man. In the morning of the j-th, the day of the eclipfe, the Saturday j, ■weather was dark and cloudy, with fliowers of rain ; fo that we had little hopes of an obfervation. About nine o'clock the fun broke out at intervals for about half an hour; after which it was totally obfcured, till within a minute or two of the beginning of the eclipfe. We were all at our telefcopes, viz. Mr. Bayly, Mr. King, Captain Gierke, Mr. Bligh, and myfelf. I loft the obfervation, by not having a dark glafs at hand, fuitable to the clouds that were conti- nually palling over the fun ; and Mr. Bligh had not go6 the fun into the field of his telcfcope ; fo that the com- mencement of the eclipfe was only obferved by the other- three gentlemen ; and by them, with an uncertainty of fe— veral fcconds, as follows : ■ ' '■ H. M. S. By Mr. Bayly, at ii 46 23^.] Mr. King, at 1 1 46 28 .Apparent time; Capt. Gierke, at 11 47 5 Mr. Bayly and Mr. King obferved, with the achromatic telefcopes, belonging to the board of longitude, of equal magnifying powers ; and Captain Gierke obferved with one of the reflecflois. The fun appeared at intervals, til' ihciut the middle of the eclipfe j after which it was fccn 1 'iiore ■ ' . . iiuring (*ij l:M' : ( ,328 >777- July. A VOYAGE TO during t!ie day; fo that the end could not be obferved. The difappointment was of little confequence, fince the longi- tude was more than fufficiently determined, independently of this eclipfe, by lunar obfervations, which will be men- tioned hereafter. As foon as we knew the eclipfe to be over, we packed up the inftiuments, took down the obfervatories, ..nd fent every thing on board that had not been already removed. As none of the natives had taken the leaft notice or care of the three fheep allotted to Mareewagee, I ordered them to be carried back to the fhips. I was apprehenfi"e, that, if I had left them here, they run great rilk of being deftroyed by dogs. That animal did not exift upon this ifland, when I firft vi- fited it in 1773 ; but I now found they had got a good ma- ny, partly from the breed then left by myfelf, and partly from fome, imported fince that time, from an ifland not very remote, called Feejee. The dogs, however, at prefenr, had not found their way into any of the Friendly Iflands, except Tongataboo ; and none but the Chiefs there had, as yet, got poircflion of any. Being now upon the eve of our departure from this ifland, I {hall add fome particulars about it, and its productions, for which I am indebted to Mr. Anderfon. And, having fpcnt as many weeks there, as I had done days * when I vifited it in 1773, the better opportunities that now occurred, of gain- ing more accurate information, and the fkill of that gentle- man, in diretfling his inquiries, will, in fome meafurCj fup- ' ply the imperfection of my former account of this ifland. " Amfterdam, Tongataboo, or (as the nativci alfo very frequently called it) Tonga, is about twenty leagues in * From the 4th fo the 7th of Odobc'. CU'CUlt, ■ 1 1 » ■ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. circuit, fomcwhat oblong, though, by much, broadeft at the Eaft end; and its greateft length from Eaftto Weft. The South fliore, which I faw in 1 773, is ftraight, and confifts of coral rocks, eight cr ten feet high, terminating perpendicu- larly, except in foine places where it is interrupted by fmall fandy beaches ; on which, at low water, a range of black rocks may be feen. The Weil end is not above five or fix miles broad, but has a fhore fomewhat like that of the South fide ; whereas the whole North fide is environed with Ihoals and iflands, and the fliore within them low and fandy. The Eaft; fide or end is, mod probably, like the South; as the fliore begins to afTume a rocky appearance, toward the North EaH: point, though not above feven or eight feet high. The ifland may, with the greateft propriety, be called a low one, as the trees, on the Weft part, where we now lay at anchor, only appeared ; and the only emJnent part, which can he fcen from a (hip, is the South Eaft point ; though many gently rifing and declining grounds are ob- fervable by one who is afliore. The general appearance of the country docs not afford that beautiful kind of landfcape that is produced from a variety of hills and valleys, lawns, rivulets, and calcades ; bur, at the fame time, it conveys to the fpecftator an idea of the nioft exuberant fertility, v^'hc- ther we refpccT: tlie places improved by art, or thofe ftill in a natural (late; both vv'iiich yield all their vegetable pro- ductions Vkith the greateft vigour, and perpetual verdure. At a ditlance, the lurface fccms entirely clothed with trees of various fizcs ; fonie of which are very large. But, above the reft, tlie tall cocoa-palms always raiCe their tufted heads; and are far from being the fuiallcft ornament to any country that produces thcni. Tlic boo^o, which is a Vol. I. ^ u. fpecics 329 1777' July- = • y\ '■'.''h^lri* 330 >777» July. A VOYAGE TO fpecies of fig, with narrow pointed leaves, is the large ft fized tree of the ifland ; and on the uncuhivated fpots, efpe- cially toward the fea, the mofl common buflies and fmall trees a.rc the pandanus ; feveral forts of /jibi/cus; the faitanoo, mentioned more than once in the courfe of our voyage j and a few others. It ought alfo to be obferved, that though the materials for forming grand landfcapes are wanting, there are many of what might, at leaft, be called neat pro- fpeds, about the cultivated grounds and dwelling-places ; but, more efpecially, about the fat ookas ; where fometimes art, and fometimes nature, has done much to pleafe the eye. From the fituation of Tongataboo, toward the tropic, the climate is more variable, than in countries farther within that line ; though, perhaps, that might be owing to the feafon of the year, which was now the winter fclftice. The winds are, for the moft part, from forne point between South and Bail; and, when moderate, are commonly at- tended with fine weather. When they blow frefher, the weather is often cloudy, though open ; and., in fuch cafes, there is frequently rain. The wind fometimes veers to the North Eaft, North North Eaft, or even North North Weft, but never lafts long, nor blows ftrong from thence -, though it is commonly accompanied by hea^'y rain, and clofe fultry weather. The quick fuccefiion of vegetables has been al- ready mentioned ; but I am not certain that the changes of weather, by which it is brought about, are confiderablc enough to make them perceptible to the natives as to tlieir method of life, or rather that they Ihould be very fenfiblc cf the different feafons. This, perhaps, may be inferred from the Hate of th( ir vegetable productions, which are never fo much afTedted, with refpcd to the foliage, as to fliccl i that • If r!! \'t THE PACIFIC OCEAN. that all at once ; for every leaf is fucceeded by another, as fafl: as it falls j which caufes that appearance of univerfal and continual fpring found here. The bafis of the ifland, as far as we know, is entirely a coral roc':, which is the only fort that prefents itfelf on the fhore. Nor did we fee the leaft appearance of any other Hone, except a few fmall blue pebbles llrewed about the Jiatookas; and the fmooth, folid black ftone, fomething like the lapis lycliiis, of which the natives make their hatchets. But tliefc may, probably, have been brought from other illands in the neighbourhood ; for a piece of flatey, iron-coloured ftone was bought at one of them, which was never feen here. Though the coral projedls in many places above the furface, the foil is, in general, of a confiderable depth. In all cul- tivated places, it is, commonly, of a loofe, black colour ; produced, feemingly, in a great meafure, from the rotten vegetables that are planted there. Underneath which is, very probably, a clayey /lram?n -, for a foil of that kind ip often feen both in the low, and in the riling grounds ; but efpecially in feveral places toward the fnore, where it is of any height; f p.d, when broken off, appears fometimes of a reddifli, though oftener of a brownifh yellow colour, and of a pretty lliir" confidence. Where the fliore is low, the foil is com- monly fandy, or rather compofed of triturated coral; which, however, yields budies growing with great luxuriance; and is fometimes planted^ not unfuccefsfully, by the na- tives. Cf cultivated fruits, the principal are plantains ; of which they have fifteen different forts or varieties; bread-fruit; two forts of fruit found at Otaheite, and known there un- der I he names oi jambu and eeevce\ the latter a kind of U u z plumb ; H:''l m : h ?32 A VOYAGE TO '777- ._; 1 „ If' : ''V 5 plumb; and vaft numbers of fhaddocks, which, however, are found as often in a natural flatc, as planted. The roots are yams, of which are two forts ; one biack, and fo large, that it often weighs twenty or thirty pounds j the other white, and long, feldom weighing a pound; a large root, called kappc ; one not unlike our white potatoes, called ma'-, 'haha; the talo, or coccos of other places; and an- other, named jV^V^. .' : ' ' ; . . ' Befides vafl numbers of cocoa-nut trees, they have three other forts of palms, two of which are very fcarcc. One of them is called beeoo; which grows almoll a^s high as the cocoa-tree, has very large leaves plaited like a fan, and clufters or bunches of globular nuts, not larger than a fmall piilol ball, growing amongft the branches, with a very hard kernel, which is fometimes cat. The other k a kind of cabbage-tree, not diftinguiihablc from the cocoa, but by being rather thicker, and by having its leaves more ragged. It has a cabbige three or four feet long ; at the top of which are the leaves, and at ih=. ; ouom the fruit, which is fcarcely two inches long, refembu.ig an oblong cocoa-nut, with an infipid tenacious kernel, called, by the natives, nceoogoola, or red cocoa-nut, as it afTumes a reddifli cafl: wrhen ripe. The third fort is called ongo ongo, and much commoner, being generally found planted about their fatoakiv. It feldom grows higher than five feet, though fometimes to eight; and has a vaft number of oval compreflTed nuts, as large as a pippin, fticking immediately to the trunk, amongft the leaves, which are not eat. There is plenty of excellent xugar-cane, which is cultivated; gourds; bamboo; turmeric; and a fpecics of fig, about the fize of a fmall cherry, called vicitst whicii, though wild, is fometimes eat. But the ca- talogue M THE PACIFIC OCEAN. talogue of uncultivated plants is too large to be enumerated here. Bcfides the pemphis decnfpermum, maUococca, maba, and fomc other new genera, defcribed by Dr.FoQer*, there arc a few more found here i which, perhaps, the different fea- fons of the year, and his (hort (lay, did not give him an opportunity to take notice of. Although it did not appear, during our longer ftay, that above a fourth part of the trees, and other plant?, were in flower ; a circumftance abfolutely nccelliry, to enable one to diftinguifh the various kinds. The only quadrupeds, befides hogs, are a few rats, and fome dogs, which are not natives of the place, but produced from feme left by us in 1773, and by others got from Fecjce. Fowls, which are of a large breed, are domellicated here. Amongft the birds, arc parrots, fome what fmaller than the common grey ones, of an indifferent green on the back ■and wings, the tail bluifli, and the rell of a footy or choco- late brown ; parroquets, not larger than a fpar. w, of a fine yellowifli green, with bright azure oa the cro. i of liie head, and the throat ?nd belly red ; befjdcs ano.; cr fort as large as a dove, with a blue crown and thighs, r?i;: throax an^ under part of the head crimfon, as alfo part of the : dty, and the reft a beautiful green. There are owls about the fize of our common fort, but of a finer rlumage ; the cuckoos, mentioned at Palmerfton's Ifland ; hing-fifliers, about the fize of a thrufh, of a green- ifli bluv, with a white ring about the neck; and a bird of the ihrufli kind, almofl as big, of a dull green colour, with two yellow wattles at tl.c bafe of the bill, which is the only finging one we obferved here; but itcompenfates a good deal * Sec W19 Characltres Gt'furicn PlaKtarum. Lond. 1776. for S2,5 1777- July. m ill |1.,:V I 334 1777. July. A VOYAGE TO for the want of others by the (Ircngth and melody of its notes, which fill the woods at dawn, in the evening, and at the breaking up of bad weather. The other land birds are rails, as large as a pigeon, of a variegated gre ' colour, with a rufty neck ; a black fort with red eyes, not larger than a lark; large violet-coloured coots, with red bald crowns ; two forts of fly-catchers ; a very fmall fwallow ; and three forts of pigeons, one of which is le ramter cuivre of Monf. Sonnerat * ; another, half the fizc of the common fort, of a light green on the back and wings, with a red forehead -, and a third, fomewhat lefs, of a purple brown, but whitifli underneath. • Of water- fowl, and fuch as frequent the fea, are the ducks feen at Annamooka, though fcarce here; blue and white heroiT;; tropic birds} common noddies; white terns j anew fpecic5 of a leaden colour, with a black crefl:; a fmall blu- i(h curlew; and a large plover, fpotted with yellow. Be- (iucs the large bars., mentioned before, there is alfo the com- mon fort. . . The only noxious or difgufling animals of the reptileor infeA tribe, arc fea fnakes, three feet long, wirh black und white circles alternately, often found on fhore ; fome fcorpions, and centipedes. There are fine green guattoes, a foot and a baa- long; anorhcr brown ar.d fpotted lizard, about a foot \o:ig; :ind two Other fmall forts. Araongft the other in- fccfts are fome beautiful moths ; butterflies ; very large fpiders ; and others; making, in the whole, about fifty diilerent (brts. The fea abounds with fifli, thougli the variety is Icfs than might be expected. The mod frequent forts are mullets ; • J^ojagt ii la Nouvelle Guinie, Tab. CII. feveral THE PACIFIC OCEAN. fcveral forts of pan ot-fifli; filvcrfifli; old wives; fome beau- tifully fpottcd foles ; leather-jackets ; bonnetos ; and albi- corcs ; befides the eels mentioned at Palmerflon's Ifland ; fome fharks ; rays ; pipe-fifli j a fort of pike •» and fome curious devil-fifli. The many reefs and flioals on the North fide of the ifland^ aiFord flielter for an endlefs variety of fliell-fifh ; amongft which are many that are clleemed precious in Europe. Such as the true hammer oyfler ; of which however, none could be obtained entire ; a large indentated oyiier, and feveral others $ but none of the common fort; panamas ; cones; a fort of gigantic cockle, found alfo in rhe Kail Indies; pearl jQiell oyftcrs; and many otiiers; feveral of which, I believe, have been hitherto unknown to the moft diligent inquirers after that branch of natural hiftory. There are, likewife, feveral forts ( " fea eggs; and many very fine ftar-filli.; be- fides a confiderable variety of corals ; amongft which are two red forts ; the one moft elegantly branched, the other tubulous. And there is no lefs variety amongft the crabs and Cray fifti, which are very numerous. To which may be added, feveral forts of fponge ; the fea hare, hokthurU, and; the like." 335 »777. July. V,^ — ! !] CHAP. 33^ A VOYAGE TO C H A P. IX. " A grand Soknmity^ called Natch e, in Honour of the Kings Son^ perfonneol. — 7he Procejftons a7td other Ce- remonies^ during the firfi Day^ dejcrthed. — 'The Man- 71 er of pcifftrtg the Night at the Kings Houje, — Co?2tinu- ation of the Solemnity^ the next Day, — ConjeElnres about the Nature of it. — Departure from Tongataboo^ and Arrival at Eooa, — Account of that Jfand^ and Tranf- aElions there. July. Sunday 6. Monday 7. Tucfday 8. WE were now ready to fail ; but the wind being Eaft- erly, we had not fufficient day Hght to turn through the narrows, either with the morning, or with ttie evening f v:»od ; the one falHng out too early, and the other too late. So that, without a leading wind, we were under a ncceflity of waiting two or three days. I took tlie opportunity of this delay, to be prefcnt at a public folemnity, to which the king had invited us, when we went laft to vifit him, and which, he had informed us, was to be performed on the 8th. With a view to this, he and all the people of note, quitted our neighhouihood on the 7th, and repaired to Mooa, where the folemnity was to be exhibiicd. A party of us followed them, the next morn- ing. We underftood, from what Poulaho had faid to us, that his fon and heir was now to be initii'^ed into certain X privileges j W m THE PACIFIC OCEAN. privileges; aniongfl which was, that of eating with his fa- ther} aa hon(3iir he had not, as yet, been admitted to. We arrived at Mooa about eight o'clock, and found the king, witli a large circle of attendants fitting before him, within an inclofurc fo imall and dirty, as to excite my won- der that any fuch could be found in that neighbourhood. Tiicy were intent upon their ufual morning occupation, in preparing a bowl of ^^lv;. As this was no liquor for us, we walked out to vifit Ibme of our friends, and to obferve what preparations might be making for the ceremony, which was foon to begin. About ten o'clock, the people began to aflemble, in a large area, which is before the malacc, or great houfe, to which we had been conducted the firft time we vifited Mooa. At ijie end of a road, that opens into this area, flood fome men with fpears and clubs, who kept conftantly reciting, or chanting, fhort fentences, in a mournful tone, which con- veyed fome idea of diftrefs, and as if they called for fome- thing. This was continued about an hour; and, in the mean time, many people came down the road, each of thcni bringing a yam, tied to the middle of a pole, which they laid down, before the perfons whc continued repeating the fentences. While this was going on, the king and prince arrived, and feated themfelves upon the area ; and we were defired to fit down by them, but to pull off our hats, and to untie our hair. The bearers of the yams being all come in, each pole was taken up between two men, who carried it over their fhoulders. After forming themfelves into com- panies, of ten or twelve peilons each, they marched acrofs the place, with a quick pace ; each company, headed by a man bearing a club or fpear, and guarded, on the right, by feveral others, armed with diflcunt weapons. A man car- rying a living pigeon on a perch, clofed the rear of the Vol. I. X X proccliion, 337 •i' '777- July- 338 >777- A VOYAGE TO proccflion, in which about two hundred and fifty pciTons walked. Oniai was dcfircd by mc, to aflc the Chief, to what place the yams were to be thus carried, with fo much folemnity ? but, as he feemed unwilling to give us the information we wanted, two or three of us followed the procellion, contrary lo his inclination. We found, that they flopped before a viorai or fiotooka * of one houfe (landing upon a mount, which was hardly a quarter of a mile from the place where they firfl; allbmbled. Here we ohfervcd them depofiting the yams, and making them up into bundles ; but for what purpofc, we could not learn. And, as our prefence feemed to give them uneafinefs, we left them, and returned to Poulaho, who told us, we might amufe ourfelves by walking about, as no- thing would be done for fomc time. The fear of lofmg any part of the ceremony, prevented our being long abfent. When we returned to the king, he defired me to order the boai'^ crew not to ftir from the boat ; for, as every thing would, very foon, be tabooy if any of our people, or of their own, fliould be found walking about, they would be knocked down with clubs; nay mateaU that is, killed. He alfo acquainted us, that we could not be prefcnt at the ceremony; but that we fliould be conducT:cd to a place, where we might fee every thing that pafled. Ohjedlions were made to our drefs. We were told, that, to qualify us to be prefcnt, it was neceflary that we fhould be naked as low as the breaft, with our 1j:ur off, and our hair untied. Omai ofl'ered to conform to thefe rcquifites, and began to flrip ; other objec- tions were then darted ; fo that the exclufion was given to liim equally with ourfelves. This is ihcfaioota mentioned above by Mr. Andcrfon, p. 311. I did r 1 THE PACIFIC OCEAN. I dill net much like iliis rcftriJlion ; and, ihcrcCorc, dole our, ro fee what miglic now be going forward. I found very few people iliriing, cxecpt thofe (hcfFed to attend tlic ceremony ; fomc of whom had in their hands fniall poles, about four feet long, and to the under-part of thefe were faflcned two or three other (licks, not bigger than one's finger, and about fix inches in lengtli. Thefe mci; were going toward the ;//;/v;/ juil mentioned. I took tlie 'i/tiie road, and was, feveral times, Hopped by them, all cryin^-j out taboo, flowever, I went forward, without mucli regard- ing them, till I came in fight of the mora'iy and of the people ■who were fitting before it. I was now urged, very (Irongly to go back; and, not knowing what might be the confe- quence of a refufal, I complied. I had obfe':ved, that the people, who carried the poles, pafTed this inorait or what I may, as well, call temple; and guefluig, from this circum- (lance, that fomething was iranfa(5ting beyond it, which might be worth looking at, I iiad thoughts of advancing, by making a round, for this purpofe ; but I was fo clofely watched by three men, that I could not put my defign in execution. In order to fliake thefe fellows olF, I returned to the mnl'.ee, where I had left the king, and, from thence, made an elopement a fccond time ; but I inllantly. met with the fame three men ; fo that it feemed, as if they had been ordered to watcii my motions. I paid no regard to what they faitl or did, t"l I caiiic within light of the king's prin- tipaly/.uVj'.Av; ox moral, whicii I h;ivc nhcady dcfcribed*, before which a great number of men were fitting, being the fame perlbns whom 1 nad juil before fcen pafs by the other inoral^ from whicii this was but a little dillant. Obfcrving, that I could watch the proceedings of this company from the Z19 If' A T ■■I X X 2 king's ^, .^J^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A '/., 11.25 ^ liU 12.2 Iff 1^ |2.0 U 11.6 1^1 Ta '^.^'* ■^ Hiotographic Sdences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREr WEBSTER, N.Y. 145S0 (716) 872-4503 r^ 34° •777- July. AVOYAGETO king's plantiiiion, I repaired thither, very much to the fa- tisfadion of thofe who attended me. As foon as I got in, I acquainted the gentlemen who had come with me from the (hips, with what I had feen ; and we took a proper ftation, to watch the refult. The number of people, at the Jcitooka, continued to increafe for fome time ; and, at length, we could fee them quit their fit- ting pofture, and march off in proceflion. They walked in pairs, one after another, every pair carrying, between them, one of the fmall poles above-mentioned, on their fhoulders. We were told, that the fmall pieces of flicks, faftened to the poles, were yams • fo that, probably, they were meant to reprefent this root emblematically. The hindmoft men of each couple, for the mod parr, placed one of his hands to the middle of the pole,- as if, without this additional fup- port, it were not ftrong enough to carry the weight that hung to it, and under which they all feemed to bend, aa they walked. This proceflion confifted of one hundred and eight pairs, and all, or mofl of ihcra, men of rank. They came clofe by tlT* fence behind which we flood j fo that we had a full view .\. them. Having waited here, till they had all pafled, we then re- paired to Poulaho's iioufe, and faw him going out. We could not be allowed to follow him ; but were, forthwith, condu(5led to the place allotted to us, which was behind a fence, adjoining to the area of the fiatooka where the yams had been dcpoflted in the forenoon. As we were not the only people who were excluded froui being publicly prefcnt at this ceremony, but allowed fb peep from behind the cur- tain, we had a good deal of company ; and I obfcrvcd, that ail the other inclofurcs, round the place, were filled with 7 people. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 341 people. And, yet, all imaginable care feemed to be taken, that they fhould fee as little as poflible ; for the fences had not only been repaired that morning, but, in many places, raifed higher than common ; fo that the tailed man could not look over them. To remedy this defedt in our ftation, we took the liberty to cut holes in the fence, with our knives ; and, by thia means, we could fee, pretty diftindtly, every thing that was tranfa(51:ing on the other fide. On our arrival at our ftation, we found two or three hundred people, fitting on the grafs, near the end of the road that opened into the area of the moral ; and the num- ber continually increafed, by others joining them. At length, arrived a few men carrying fome fmall pules, and branches or leaves of the cocoa-nut tree; and, upon their firft ap- pearance, an old man feated himfelf in the road, and, with his face toward them, pronounced a long oration in a feri- ous tone. He then retired back, and the others advancing to the middle of the area, began to eredl a fmall (bed -, em- ploying,^ for that purpofe, the materials above-mentioned. When they had finilhed their work, ihey all fquatted down, foK a moment, befoie it., then rofe up, and retired to the reft of the company. Soon after, came I'oulaho's fon, preceded" by four or five men, and they feated themfelves a little afide from the (hed, and rather behijid it. After them, appeared twelve or fourteen women of the firft rank, walking flowly in pairs, each pair carrying between them, a narrow piece of white cloth extended, about two or three yards in length. Thefe marched up to the prince, fquatted down before him ; and, having wrapped fome of the pieces of the cloth they had brought, round -his body, they rofe up, and retired in tlie fame order, to fome diftance on his left, and there feated themfelves. Poulaho himfelf foon made his appearance, preceded »777' July. - il i l^ y 34« A VOYAGE TO 1777- preceded by four men, who walked two and two abreaft, and fat down on his fon's left hand, about twenty pacps from him. The young prince, then, quitting his firft po- fition, went and fat down under the fhed, with his attend- ants ; and a confiderable number more placed themfelves on the grafs, before this royal canopy. The prince himfelf fat facing the people, with his back to the morai. This being done, three companies, of ten or a dozen men in eav,n, ftarted up from amongft the large crowd, a little after each other, and running haAily to the oppofite fide of the area, fat down for a few feconds ; after which, they re- turned, in the fame manner, to their former ftations. To them fucceeded two men, each of whom held a fmall green branch in his hand, who got up and approached the prince, fitting down, for a few feconds, three different times, as they advanced ; and then, turning their backs, re. tired in the fame manner, inclining their branches to each other as they fat. In a little timC) two more repeated this ceremony. The grand proceffion, which I had feen march off from the other morale now began to come in. To judge of the circuit they had made, from the time they had been abfent, it muft have been pretty large. As they entered the area, they inarched up to the right of the flied, and, having prclrated themfelves on the grafs, depofited their pretended bur- tliens (the poles above-mentioned), and faced round to the prince. They then rofe up, and retired in the fame order, clofing their hands, which they held before them, with the moll ijerious afpexfl, and feated themfelves along the front of the area. During all the time that this numerous band were coming in,, and depofiting their poles, three men, who fat under the Ihed, with the prince, continued pronouncing fcparate THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 343 feparatc fentcnces, in a melancholy tone. After this, a pro« 5.')und filence cnfucd, for a little time, and then a man, who fat in the front of the area, began an oration (or prayer), during which, at feveral different times, he went and broke one of the poles, which had been brought in by thofe who had walked in procefllon. When he had ended, the people, fitting before the fhed, feparated, to make a lane, through which the prince and his attendants pa(Ied» and the aflembly broke up. Some of our party, fatisfied with what they had already feen, now returned to the fliips ; but I, and two or three more of the officers, remained at Mooa, to fee the conclu- fion of the folemnity, which was not to be till the next day ; being defirous of omitting no opportunity, which might afford any information about the religious or the political inftitutions of this people. The fmall fticks or poles, which had been brought into the area, by thofe who walked in proceffion, being left lying on the ground, after rhe crowd had difperfed, I went i examintu them. I found, that to the middle of each, two or three fmall (ticks were tied, as has been related. Yet we had been repeatedly told by the natives, who flood near us, that they were young yamsi infomuch that lome of our gentlemen believed them, ra- ther than theij; own eyes. As I had the demondration of my fenfes to fatisfy me, that they were not real yams, it is clear, that we ought to have underftood them, that they were oiily the artificial reprefentations of thefe roots. Our fupper was got ready about feven o'clock. It con- lifled of fifh and yams. We might have had pork alfo ; but we did not choote to kill a large hog, which the king had given to us for that purpofe. He fupped with us, and drank, pretty freely of brandy and water j fo that he went to bed wicU »777- July. !'2 (ii ill I 344 A VOYAGE TO '777- with a fufllcient dofc. We pafled the night in the fame Julv. * "^ *- — ^ — i houfe with hira, and feveral of his attendants. »* wednef. 9. About onc OF two o'clock in the morning they waked, . ' and conveiled for about an hour, and then went to fleep"' again. All, but Poulaho himfclf, rofe at day-break, and went, I know not whither. Soon after, a woman, one of thole who generally attended upon the Chief, came in, and inquired where he was. I pointed him out to her; an4 flie immediately fat down by him, and began the fame operation, which Mr. Anderfon had feen pradifed upon Futtafaihe, tapping or beating gently, with her clinched fifts, on his thighs. This, inflead of prolonging his fleep, as was intended, had the contrary effeiJt j however, thoiigh he awaked, he continued to lie down. Omai, and I, now went to vifit the prince, who had part*- ed from us early in the evening. For he did not lodge with the king ; but in apartments of his own, or, at lead, fuch * as had been allotted to him, at fome diftance from his fa- ther's houfe. We found him with a circle of boys, or youths, about his own' age, lltting before him} and an old woman, and an old man, who feemed to have the care of him, fitting behind. There were others, both men and women, employed about their neceflary affairs, in difFer- cnt departments; who, probably, belonged to his houfe- hold. * From the prince we returned to the king. By this time he had got up, and had a crowded circle before him, com- pofed chiefly of old men. While a large bowl of kava was preparing, a baked hog, and yams, fmokmg hot, were brought in ; the greatefl part of which fell to our fliare, and was very acceptable to the boat's crew : for thefe people eat iC'.-fS THE PACIFIC OCEAN. cat very little in a morning; efpecially the /:ava drinkers. I afterward walked out, and vifited feveral other Chiefs; and found, that all of them were taking their morning draught, or had already taken it. Returning to the king, I found him aiieep in a fmall retired hut, with two women tapping on his breech. About eleven o'clock he arofe again ; and then fome fifh and yams, which tailed as if they had been Hewed in cocoa-nut milk, were brought to him. Of thefe he eat a large portion, and lay down once more to lleep. I now left him, and carried to the prince a prefent of cloth, beads, and other articles, which I had brought with me from the fhip for the purpofe. There was a fufficient quantity of clotl\ to mail j him a complete fuit j and he was immediately decked out with it. Propd of his drefs, he firft went to (hew himfelf to his father ; and then con- ducted me to his mother; with whom were about ten or a dozen other women of a refpedtable appearance. Here the prince changed his apparel, and made me a prefent of two pieces of the cloth manufadlured in the ifland. By this time, it was- pall noon, when, by appointment, I repaired to the palace to dinner. Several of our gentlemen had returned, this morning, from the fliips ; and we were all invited to the feaft, which was prefently ferved up, and confifted of two pigs and yams. I roufed the drowfy monarch, :o partake of what he had provided for our entertainment. In the mean time, two mullets, and fome Ihell-fifli, were brought to him, as I fuppofed, for his feparate portion. But he joined it to our fare, fat down with us, and made a hearty meal. ' . VVhen dinner was over, *7c were told that the cere- mony would foon begin ; an i were ftridlly enjoined not to walk out. I had refolved, however, to peep no longer Vol. I. Y y . from 345 lVy\ 34^ A VOYAGE TO July. from behind the curtain, but to mix with the aftors them- felves, if poiTible. With this view, I ftole out from the plantation, and walked toward the morai, the f-rene of the folemnity, I was, fevcral times, defired to go back, by- people whom I met ; but I paid no regard to them; and they fuffered Me to pafs on. When I arrived at the werm, I found a number of men feated on the ud<^ of the area, on each fide of the road that hads up to it. A few w e fitting on the oppofite fide of the area ; and two men in the middle of it, with their faces turned to the morai; When I got into the midft of the firft company, I was defired to fit down j which I accordingly did. Where I fat, there were lying a number of fmall bundles or parcels, compofed of cocoa- nut leaves, and tied to l^icks made into the form of hand-^ barrows. All the information I could get about them was, that they were taioo. Our number kept continually in- creafing ; every one coming from the fame quarter. From time to time, one op another of the company turned himfelf to thofc who were coming to join us, and made a Ihort fpecch ; in which I could remark that rhe word arekce, that is King, was generally mentioned. One man faid fome- thing that produced burfts of hearty laughter from all the crowd ; c)tl>crs, of the fpeakers, met with public applaufe. 1 was, feveral times, defired to leave the place ; and, at laft,. when they found that I would not ftift after fome feeming confultation, they applied to me to uncover my fhoulder& as theirs were. With tliis requeft I coiiiplied ; and then they feemcd to be no longer uneaiy at my prefence. I fat r full hour, without any thing more going forward, befide what I have mentioned. At length the prince, the women, and the king, all came in, as they had done the day before. The prince, being placed under the (hed, afte^ liis THE PACIFIC OCEAN. H7 ])is failier's arrival, two men, each carrying a piece of mat, came,.repeating foraething ferioufly.and put ihem about him. The affcmbled people now began their operations; and firft, three companies ran backward and forward acrofs the area, as defcribed in tie account of the proceedingsof the former day. Soon after, the two men, w'',o fat in the middle of the area, made a ihort fpeech or prayer ; and then the whole body, amongfl whom I had my place, darted up, and ran and feated »hemfelves before the flied under which the prince, and three or four men, were fitting. I wms now parfly under the management of one of the company, who feemed very aifiduous to fci've me. By his means, I was placed in fuch a iituation, that, if I bad been allowed to make ufe of my eyes, nothing that pafTed could have efcaped me. But it was neceiTary to lit with down-cail looks, and demure as maids. Soon after, the procefllon came in, as on the day before ; each two perfons bearing on their flioulders a pole, round the middle of which, a cocoa-nut leaf was plaited. Thefe were depofited with ceremonies iimilai to thofe obferved on the preceding day. This firfl proceffion was followed by I fecond ; the men compoGng which, brought bafkets, Aich as are ufually employed by this people to carry pro- viCions in, and made of palm leaves. Thef€ "ere followed by a third proceflion, in which were brought u . Jerent kinds of fmall fifli ; each fixed at the end of a forked ftick. The bafkets were carried up to an old man, whom I took to be the Chief Prieft, and who fat on the prince's right-hand, without the Ihed. He held each in his hand, while he made a Ihort fpeech or prayer; then laid it down, and called for another, repeating the fame words as before ; and thus he went through thp whole number of bafkets. The $Qi were Y y 2 • . prefcnted, • 77r. 34B A VOYAGE TO YY' prcfented, one by one, on the forked (licks, as they came in, to two men, who fat on the left i and who, till now, held green branches in their hands. The firfl fifli they laid down on their right, and the fecond on their left. When the third was prefented, a flout looking man, who fat .be- hind the other two, reached his arm over between them, and made a fnatch at it ; as alfo did the other two, at the very fame time. Thus they feemed to contend for every fifh that was prefented ; but as there were two hands againfl one, befides the advantage of fituation, the man behind got nothing but pieces ; for he never quitted his hold, nil the fifh was torn out of his hand ; and what little remained in it, he fhook out behind him. The others laid what they got, on the right and left alternately. At length, either by accident or defign, the man behind got pofTefllon of a whole fifh, without either of the other two fo much as touching it. At this, the word mareeai, which fignifies very good^ or well doncy was uttered in a low voice throughout the whole crowd. It feemed, that he had performed now all that was expe(5led from him ; for he made no attempt upon the few fifh that came after. Thefe fifh, as alfo the bafkets, were all delivered, by the perfons who brought them in, fitting ; and, in the fame order and manner, the fmall poles, which tne firfl proceffion carried, had been laid upon the ground. The laft proceffion being clofed, there was fome fpeak- ing or praying, by different perfons. Then, on fome fignal being given, we all ftarted up, ran feveral paces to the left, and fat down wi.h our backs to the prince, and the few who remained with him. I was defired not to look behind me. However, neither this injunction, nor the remem- brance of Lot's wife, difcouraged me from facing about. 5 I now THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 349 1 now faw that the prince had turned his face to the morai. But this laft movement had brought fo many people be- tween him and me, that I could not perceive what was doing. I was afterward afTured, that, at this very time, the prince was admitted to the high honour of eating with his father ; which, till now, had never been permitted to him ; a piece of roaded yam being prefented to each of them for this purpofe. This was the more probable, as we had been cold, before-hand, that this was to happen during the fo- lemnity i and as all the people turned their backs to them, at this time, which they always do when their monarch eats. After fome little time, we all faced about, and formed a femicircle before the prince, leaving a large open fpace be- tween us. Prefently there appeared fome men coming to- ward us, two and two, bearing large (licks, or poles, upon their fhoulders, making a noife that might be called fing- ing, and waving their hands as they advanced. When they had got clofe up to us, they made a Ciew of walking very faft, without proceeding a iingle ftep. Immediately after, three or four men ftartcd up from the crowd, with large (licks in their hands, who ran toward thofe new-comers. The latter inftantly threw down the poles from their fhoul- ders, and fcampered off} and the others attacked the poles ; and, having beat them moft unmercifully, returned to their places. As the pole-bearers ran o(F, they gave the challenge that is ufual here in wreftling ; and, not long after, a num- ber of ftout fellows came from the fame quarter, repeating the challenge as they advanced. Thefe were oppofed by a party, who came from tnc oppofite fide almoft at the fame inftant. The two parties paraded about the area for a few minutes, and then retired, each to their own fide. After this. «777. July. 3S0 A VOYAGE TO IT77- July. this, there were wrcIUing and boxing-matches for about half an hour. Then two men fcatccl ihcmfelvcB before the prince, and made fpccchea, addrcflcd, as I thought, entirely to him. With this ihc lolcmnity ended, and the whole af- iembly broke up. I now went and cxnmincd the fevcral bafkcts which had been prcfcritcd ; a curiofity that I was not allowed before to indulge ; bccaufe every thing was then taboo. But the fo- lemnity being now over, they became, fimply, what I found them ro be, empty baflccts. So that, whatever they were fuppofcd to contain, was emblematically reprefentcd. And fo, indeed, was every other thing which had been brought in proceflion, except the fiili. We endeavoured, in vain, to find out the meaning, not only of the ceremony in general, which is called Natche, but of its different parts. We feldom got any other anfwer to our inquiries, but taboo; a word, which, I have before ob- ferved, is applied to many other things. But, as the prince was, evidently, the principal perfon concerned in it ; and as we had been told by the king, ten days before the cele- bration of the Natchcy that the people would bring in yams for him and his Ton to eai together; and as he even de- fcribed fomc part of the ceremony, we concluded, from what he had then faid, and from what we now faw, that an oath of allegiance, if I may fo exprefs myfelf, or folemn promife, was, on this occafion, made to the prince, as the immediate fucceflbr to the regal dignity, to ftand by him, and to furnifh him with the feveral articles that were here em- blematically reprefented. This {eeiyis the more probable, as all the principal people of the iiland, whom we had ever feen, affifted in the proceffions. But, be this as it may, the whole 6 was THE PACIFIC OCEAN. was condu(5Ved with a great deal of myflerious folemnity ; and, that there was a mixture of religion in the inditution, VIS evident, not only from the place where it was per- formed, but from the manner of performing it. Our drefs and deportment had never been called in queftion, upon any former occafion whatever. Now it was . expedled that we fhould be uncovered as low as the waif^ ; that our hair fhould be loofe, and flowing over our flioulders ; that we fhould, like themfelvcs, fit crofs-legged ; and, at times, in the mod hu"nble pofture, with down-caft eyes, and hands locked together ; all which rcquifites were mofl: devoutly obferved by the whole afTembly. And, laftly, every one was excluded from the folemnity, but the principal people, and thofe who aflifted in the celebration, All i-^efc circum- flanccs were to mc a fufficicnt teftimony, that, upon this occafion, they confidcrcd themfelvcs as a(fting under the immediate infpeclion of a Supreme Being. The prcknt NatcL' may be confidcrcd, from the above ac- count of it, as merely figurative. For the fmall quantity of yams, which we faw the firft day, could not be intended as a general contribution ; and, indeed, we were given to un- derhand, that they were a portion confecratcd to the Gtooa^ or Divinity. But we were informed, that, in about three months, there would be performed, on the fame account, a far more important and grander folemnity ; on which oc- cafion, not only the tribute of Tongataboo, but that of Ha- pace, Vavaoo, and of all the other iflands, would be brought to the Chief, and confirmed more awfully, by facrificing ten human vi(5tims from amongft the inferior fort of people. A horiid folemnity indeed ! and which is a moft fignificant inftance of the influence of gloomy and ignorant fuj.erfti- tion, over the minds of one of the mofl benevolent and hu- mane ;s2 >777- Jrly. A VOYAGE TO mane nations upon earth. On inquiring into the reafons of fo barbarous a practice, they only faid, that it was a ne- ceflTary part of the Natche\ and that, if they omitted it, the jJeity .vould certainly deftroy their king. Before the afTembly broke up, the day was far fpent j and as we were at fome diftance ^rom the fliips, and had an in- tricate navigation to go through, we were in hafte to fet out from Mooa. When I took leave of Poulaho, he prefled me much to flay till the next day, to be p^cfent at a funeral ce- remony. The wife of Mareewagee, who was moiher in-law to the king, had lately died ; and her corpfe had, on account of the Natcbe, been carried on board a canoe that lay in the la^ooH. Poulaho told me, that, as foon as he had paid the lafl offices to her, he would attend me to Eooa j but, if I did not wait, that he would follow me thither. I underftood, at the fame time, thit, if it had not been for the death of this woman, moft of the Chiefs would have accompanied us to that ifland ; where, it feems, all of them have pofTeffions. I would gladly have waited to fee this ceremony alfo, had not the tide been now favourable for the fhips to get through the narrows. The wind, befides, which, for fe- veral days pafl, had been very boifterous, was now mode- rate and fettled ; and to have loll this opportunity, might have detained U3 a ic*:night longer. But what was de- cifive againfl my waiting, we underftood that the funeral ceremonies would laft five days, which was too long a time, as the fhips lay in fuch a fituation, that I could not get to fea at pleafure. I, however, afTured the king, that, if we did not fail, I fhould certainly vifit him again the next day. And fo we all took leave of him, and fet out for the fliips, where we arrived about eight o'clock in the evening. I had v^' ii THE PACIFIC OCEAN. I had forgot to mention, that Omai was prefent at this fe- cond day's ceremony, as well as myfelf ; but we were not together ; nor did I know that he was there, till it was al- snoft over. He afterward told me, that, as foon as the king llrw that I had ftolen out from the plantation, he fent feveral people* one after another, to defire me to come back. Probably, thefe meflengers were not admitted to the place where I was j for I faw nothing of them. At laft, intelli- gence was brought to the Chief, tliat I had a<51:ualiy drip- ped) in conformity to their cuftom i and then he told Omai, that he might be prefent alfo, if he would comply with all the neceflary forms. Omai had no objedlicn, as nothing was required of him, but to conform to the cuftom of his own comitry. Accordingly, he was f urniihed with a proper drefs, and appeared at the ceremony as one of the tiatives. It is likely, that one reafon of our being excluded at firfl, was an apprehenfion, that we would not fubmit to the re- quifites to qualify us to aflift. While I was attending the Natcbe at Mooa, I ordered the horfes, bull and cow, and goats, to be brought thither ; chinking that they would be lafer there, under the eyes of the Chiefs, than at a place that would be, in a manner, de- ferted. the moment after our dtijarture. Beiides the above- mentioned animals, we left, with our friends here, a young boar, and three young fows, of the Engllui breed. They were exceedingly defirous of them, judging, no doubt, that they would greatly improve their own breed, which is ra- ther fmall. Feenou alfo got from us two rabbits, a buck and a doe ; and, before we failed, we were told, that young ones had been already produced. If the cattle fucceed, of which I make no doubt, it will be a vaft acquifition to thefe Vol. I. . Z 7, iflands j 3J3 I |:.l SSi A V O Y A G E T O '777' illands ; and, as Tongataboo is a fine level country, the — v^ — « horfes cannot but be ufeful. * Thurfdayio. On the loth, at eight o'clock in the morning, we weighed anchor, and, with a fteady gale at South Eaft, turned through the channel, between the fmall ifles called Makka- haa and Monooafai ; it being much wider than the channel between the laft mentioned ifland and Pangimodoo. The flood fet flrong in our favour, till we were the length of the channel leading up to the lagoon, where the flood from the EaUward meets that from the Weft. This, together with the indraught of the hgoorit and of the flioals before it, caufeth ftrong riplings and whirlpools. To add to thefe dangers, the depth of water in the channel exceeds the length of a cable ; fo that there is no anchorage, except clofe to the rocks, where we meet with forty and forty-five fathoms, over a bottom of dark fand. But then, here, a fliip would be expofed to the whirlpools. This fruftrated the defign which I had formed, of coming to an anchor, as toon as we were through the narrows, and of making an excurfion to fee the funeral. I chofe rather to lofe that ce>- remony, than to leave the fliips in a fituation, in which I did not think them fafe. We continued to ply to windward, between the two tides, without either gaining or lofing aa inch, till near high water, when, by a favourable flant, we got into the Eaftern tide's influence. We ex|>e-mentionedk flighted the prefent. Eooa, not having, as yet, got any dogs upon it, leems to be a properer place than Tongataboo for the rearing of (heep. As we lay at anchor, this ifland bore a very different afpedl from any we had lately feen, and formed a moft beautiful landfcape. It is higher than any we had pafled, fince leaving New Zealand (as Kao may juflly be reckoned an immenfe rock), and from its top, which is almofl flat> declines very gently toward the fea. As the other ifles, of this clufter, are level, the eye can difcover nothing but the trees that cover them ; but here the land, rifing gently up* ward, prefenis us with an exteniive profpedl, where grovea of trees are only interfperfed at irregular diftances, in beautiful »57 July. V — THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 1>€autiful difordcr, and the reft covered with grafs. Near the fhore, again, it it quite ihaded with various trees, amongfl which are the habitations of the natives ; and to the right of our flation, was one of the mod extenfivc groves of cocoa-palms we had ever feen. The 13th, in the afternoon, a party of us made an excur- Sunday 13. fion to the higheft part of the ifland, which was a little to the right of our (hips, in order to have a full view of the country. About half way up, we crofied a deep valley, the bottom and iides of which, though compofed of hardly any thing but coral rock, were clothed with trees. We were now about two or three huodred feet above the level of the lea, and yet, even here, the coral was perforated into all the holes and inequalities, which ufually diverfify the furface of this fubllance within the reach of the tide. Indeed, we found the fame coral, till we began to approach the fum- mits of the higheft hills ; and, it was remarkable, that thefe were chiefly compofed of a yellowifli, foft, Tandy ftone. The foil, there, is, in general, a reddi& clay ; which, in many places, feemed to be very deep. On the mod ele- vated part of the whole iAand, we found a round platform, or mount of earth, fupported by a wall of coral ftones ; to bring which, to fuch a height, muft have coft much labour. Our guides told us, tliat this mount had been ere^ed by order of their Chief; and that they, fometimes, met there to drink kava. They called it Etchee ; by which name, aii; ere<5t;ion, which we had feen at Tongataboo, as already- mentioned, was diflingulHied Not many paces from ir, was a fpring of excellent water ; and, about a mile lower down, a running dream, which, we were told, found its<^ way to the fea, when the rains were copious. We alfo met> wiihi 358 A VOYAGE TO 1777. July. with water, in many little holes ; and, no doubt, great plenty might be found, by digging. From the elevation, to v;hich we had afcended, we had a full view of the whole ifland, except a part of the South point. The South Eaft fide, from which the higheft hills, we were now upon, are not far diftani, rifes with very great in- equalities, immediately fiom the fea; fo that the plains and meadows, of which there are here fome of great extent, lie all on the North Weft fide ; and, as they are adorned with tufts of trees, intermixed v ith plantations, they form a very beautiful landfcape, in every point of view. While I was furveying this delightful profpedt, I could not heln flatter- ing myfelf with the pleafing idea, that lome future naviga- tor may, from the fame ftation, behold thefe meadows flocked with cattle, brought to thefe iflands by the (hips of England ; and that the completion of this fingle benevolent purpofe, independently of all other confiderations, would fuf- ficiently mark to pofterity, that our voyages had not been ufelefs to the general interefts of humanity. Befides the plants common on the other neighbouring iflands, we found, on the height, a fpecies of acroftkum^ melajiomay and fern tree ; with a few other ferns and plants, not common lower down. Our guides informed us, that all, or moft of the land, on this ifland, belonged to the great Chiefs of Tongataboo; and that the inhabitants were only tenants, or vaflals, to them. Indeed, this feemed to be the cafe at all the other neighbouring ifles, except Annamooka, where ther*^ were fome Chiefs, who feemed to a(5l wi'^h fome kind of inde* pendence^ Omai, who was a great favourite with Feenou, and thefe people in general, was tempted with the oiFer of being THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 3S-9 being made Chief of this ifland, if he would have ftaid »777- amongft rhcm ; and it is not clear to me, that he would ' ' ^ > ' not have been glad to flay, if the fcheme had met with my approbation. 1 own, I did difapprovc of it ; but not becaufe I thought that Omai would do better ior hinifelf in his own native iilc. On returning from my country expedition, we were in*- formed thai a party of the nativr!s had, in the circle where our people traded, ftruck one of their own countrymen with a club, which laid bare, or, as others faid, fractured his fkull, and then broke his thigh with the fame ; when Dur men interpofed. He had no figns of life, when carried to a neighbouring houfc j but afterward recovered a little. On my aiking the reafon of fo fevere a treatment, we were informed, that he had been difcovered in a fituation rather indelicate, with a woman who was taboo'd. We, however, uhderdood, that (he was no other wife taboo'd, than by be* longing to another perfon, and rather fuperior in rank to her gallant. From this circumftance, we had an opportu- nity of obferving, how the fe people treat Tuch infidelities; But the female finner has, by far, the fmaller (hare of pu-*- ni(hment for her mifdemeanor; as they told us, that (lie would only receive a (light beating. The next morningv I planted a pine-apple, ancffowed the Monday 14^ feeds of melons, and other vegetables in the Chief's plant- ation. I had fome encouragement, indeed, to flatter my- felf, that my endeavours of this kind would not be fruit- kfs ; for, this day, there was fcrved up at my dinner, a difh of turnips, being the produce of the feeds I had left here during my laflr voyage. I had jjSo A VOYAGE TO •777' July. Ttaefday 15. Wednef. 16. I had fixed upon the 15th for failing, till Taoofa prefTed me to ftay a day or two longf^r, to receive a pre&nt he had prepared for me. Thib reafon, and the daily expeours, gave us not a little trouble to prevent them from pil- fering whatever they could lay their hands upon. We were •entertained with cudgelling, wreftling, and boxing-matches; and in the latter, both male and female combatants exhi- bited. It was intended to have finifhed the (hew with the iomaif or night-dance ; but an accident either put a total flop to it, or, at leaft, prevented any of us from Haying aihore to fee it. One of my people, walking a very little way, was furrounded by twenty or thirty of the natives, who knocked him down, and dripped him of every thing he had on his back. On hearing of this, I immediately feizcd two canoes, and a jarge hog; and infided on Taoofa's caufing the clothes to be redored, and on the offenders be- ing delivered up to me. The Chief feemed much concern- ed at what had happened ; and forthwith took the necef- fary deps to fatisfy me. This affair fo alarmed the aflem- bled people, that mod of them fled. However, when they found that I took no other meafures to revenge the infult, they returned. It was not long before one of the offenders was delivered up to me, and a fhirt and a pair of trowfers £ redor/id. TI'E PACIFIC OCEAN. 36» '777- July. reftoreJ. Th« remainder of the flolen goods not coming in before night, I was under a neceflity of leaving them to go aboard ; for the Tea run fo high, that it was with the great- eft difficulty the boats could get out of the creek with day- light, much lefs in the dark. The next morning, I landed again, having provided my- Thurfdnyi- felf with a prefent for Tiioofa, in return for what he had given me. As it was early, there were but few people at the landing place, and thofe few not without their fears. But on my defiring Omai to afliirc them, that we meant no harm; and, in confirmation of this aflurancc, having re- ftored the canoes, and releafed the offender, whom they had delivered up to me, they refumed their ufual gaiety j and, prefently, a large circle was formed, in which the Chief, and all the principal men of the ifland, took their places. The remainder of the clothes were now brought in ; but, as they had been torn off the man's back, by pieces, they were not worth carrying' on board. Taoofa, on receiving my prefent, fliared it with three or four other Chiefs, keep- ing only a fmall part for himfelf. Thi5 prefent exceeded their expectation fo greatly, that one of the Chiefs, a vene- rable old man, told me, that they did not deferve it, con- fidering how little they had given to me, and the ill treat- ment one of my people had met with. I remained with them, till they had finilhed their bowl of kava; and having then paid for the hog, which I had taken the day before, returned on board, with Taoofa, and one of Poulaho's fervants, by whom I fent, as a parting mark of my efteem and regard for that Chief, a piece of bar iron ; being as valuable a prefent as any I could make to him. Vol. I. 3 A Soon ^i 1/77. July- A VOYAGE Tl Soon after, wc weighed, and with a light ^etzc at South liafl, flood out to fea ; and then Taoofa, and a few other natives, that were in the fhip, left us. On heaving up the anchor, we found, that the cable had fufTered confiderably by the rocks ; fo that the bottom, in this road, is not to be depended upon. Bcfides this, we experienced, that a pro- digious fwell rolls in there from the South Weft. We had not been long under fail, before we obferved a fail- ing canoe corning from Tongataboo, and entering the creek before which we had anchored. Some hours after, a fmall canoe, condudted by four men, came off to us. For, as we had but little wind, wc were, ftill, at no great diftance from the land. Thefe men told us, that the failing canoe, which we had feen arrive from Tongataboo, had brought orders to the people of Eooa, to furnifh us with a certain number of hogs i and that, in two days, the king, and other Chiefs, would be with us. They, therefore, defired we would re- turn to our former llation. There was no reafon to doubt the truth of what thefe men told us. Two of them had acTiually come from Tongataboo, in the failing canoe ; and they had no view in coming off to us, but to give this in- telligence. However, as we were now clear of the land, it was not a fufRcient inducement to bring me back; efpe- cially as we had, already, on board, a ftock of frefli provi- fions, fufficient, in all probability, to laft during our paf- fage to Otaheite. Befides Taoofa's prefenr, we had got a ^ood quantity of yams at Eooa, in exchange chiefly for fmall nails. Oar fupply of hogs was alfo confiderably in- creafed there ; though, doubtlefs, we iliould have got many more, if the Chiefs of Tongataboo had been with us, whofe property they moftly were. At the approach of night, thefe men, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. men, finding that we would not return, left us; as alfo fomc others, who had come off in two canoes* .vith a few cocoa-nuts, and ihaddocks, to exchange them for what they could get ; the eagernefs of thefe people to get into their pofTefllon more of our commodities, inducing them to follow the fhips out to fca, and to continue their intercourfc with us to the lad moment. 3^1 »777. July. Z A z. c H af: $64 A VOYAGE TO CHAP. X. «777' July. Advantages derived from vtfiting the Friendly IJlaJids. — Beji Articles for Traffic, — RefreJJjments that may be procured. — TIjb Number of the IJlandsy and their Names. — KeppeFs and Bofcawens IJlands belong to them. — Ac- count of Vavaoo — of Hamoa — of Feejee. — Voyages of the Natives in their Canoes, — Difficulty of procuring exaSi Information, — Perfons of the Inhabitants of both Sexes. — Their Colour. — Difeafes, — Their general Cha- raSier. — Manner of wearing their Hair — of punSlur- ing their Bodies, — Their Clothing and Ornaments, — Perfonal CleanHnefs, THUS we took leave of the Friendly Iflands, and their inhabitants, after a flay of between two and three months ; during which time, we lived together in the moft cordial friendfliip. Some accidental differences, it is true, now and then happened, owing to their great propenfity to thieving ; but, too often, encouraged by the negligence of our own people. But thefe differences were never attended with any fatal confequences ; to prevent which, all my meafures were directed ; nnd, I believe, few, on board our (hips, left our friends here without fome regret. The time, employed amongft them, was not thrown away. We ex- pended very little of our fea provifions ; fubfilling, in ge- neral, upon the produce of the iflands, while we Ilaidj and carrying away with us a quantity of refrcfhments fuflicicnt to THE PACIFIC OCEAN. to lad till our arrival at another ftation, where wc could depend upon a frcfh fupply. I wa3 not forry, hefides, to have had an opportunity of bettering the condition of thcfe good people, by leaving the ufcful animals, before-men- tioned, among them ; and, at the fame time, thofc defigncd forOtahcite, received frefli (Irength in the paftures of Ton- gataboo. Upon the whole, therefore, the advantages we received, by touching here, were very great ; and I had the additional fatisfadlion to rcfled, that they were received, without retarding, one moment, the profecution of the great obje(5l of our voyage j the fcafon, for proceeding to the North, being, as has been already obferved, loft, before I took the refolution of bearing away for thefe iflands. But, befidcs the immediate advantages, which both the natives of the Friendly Iflands, and ourfelves, received by this vifit, future navigators from Europe, if any fuch Ihould ever tread our fteps, will profit by the knowledge I acquired of the geography of this part of the Pacific Ocean ; and the more philofophical reader, who loves to view human nature in new fituations, and to fpeculate on fingular, but faithful reprefentations of the perfons, the cuftoms, the arts, the religion, the government, and the language of uncultivated man, in remote and frefli difcovered quarters of the globe, will, perhaps, find matter of amufemenr, if not of inftruc- tion, in the information which I have been enabled to con- vey to him, concerning the inhabitants of this Archipelago. I fhall fufpcnd my narrative, of the progrefs of the voyage, while I faithfully relate what I had opportunities of collect- ing on thefe fevcral topics. Wc found, by our experience, that the befl articles for traffic, at thefe iflands, are iron tools in general. Axes and hatchets ; nails, from the largeft fpikc down to tenpcnny 1 ones J 3^5 •777« July. 266 >777' July. AVOYAGETO ones; rafps;- files; and knives, are much fought after. Red cloth ; and linen, both white and coloured ; looking glalfes, and beads, are alfo in eftimation ; but, of the lat- ter, thofe that are blue, are preferred to all others ; and white ones are thought the leaft valuable. Aftring of large blue beads would, at any time, purchafe a hog. But it muft be obferved, that fuch articles a,* are merely ornaments, may be highly efteem^d at one time, and not fo at another. Wlien we firfl: arrived at Annamooka, the people there would hardly take them in exchange even for fruit; but when Feenou came, this great man fet the fafliion, and brought them into vogue, till they rofe in their value to- what I have juft mentioned. In return for the favourite commodities which I have- enumerated, all the refrefliments may be procured that the iflands produce. Thefe are, hogs, fowls, fifli, yams, breadr- fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, fugar-cane, and, in general, every fuch fupply as can be met with at Otaheite, or any of the Society Iflands. The yams of the Friendly iflands are excellent, and, when grown to perfe<5lion, keep very well at fea. But their pork, bread fruit, and plantains, though far from defpicable, are, nevcrthelefs, much inferior in quality to the fame articles at Otaheite, and in its neighbourhood- Good water, which fliips, on long voyages, ftan^ fo much- in need of, is fcarce at ihefe iflands. It may be found, it is. true, on them all ; but, ftill, either in too inconfiderable quantities, or in fituatious too inconvenient, to ferve t!ie purpofcs of navigators. However, as the iflands afford plenty of provifions, and particularly of cocoa-nuts, liiips may make a tolerable fliift with fuch water as is to be got ; and if one is not over-nice, there will be no want. \v hile we lay at anchor, under Kotoo, on our return from Hapace» fome THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Tome people, from Kao, informed us, that there was a ftream of water there, which, poiulng down from the mountain, runs into the fea, on the South Weft fide of the ifland ; that is. On the fide that faces Toofoa, another ifland remarkable for its height, as alfo for having a confiderable volcano in ir, which, as has been already mentioned, burnt violently all the time that we were in its neighbourhood. It may be worth while for future navigators, to attend to this intelli- gence about the ftream of water at Kao ; efpecially as wc learned that there was anchorage on that part of the coaft. The black ftone, of which the natives of the Friendly Iflands make their hatchets, and other tools, we were informed, is the produdlion of Toofoa. Under the denomination of Friendly Iflands, we muft in- clude, not only the group at Hapaee, which I vifited, but alfo all thofe iflands, that have been difcovered nearly under the fame meridian, to the North, as well as fome others that have never been feen, hitherto, by any Euro- pean navigators ; but are under the dominion of Tongata- boo, which, though not the largeft, is the capital, and feat ■of government. According to the information that we received there, this Archipelago is very extenfive. Above one hundred and fifty iflands were reckoned up to us by the natives, who made ufe of bits of leaves to afcertain their number ; and Mr. Anderfon, with his ufual diligence, even pr>->cured all their names. Fifteen of them are faid to be high, or hilly, fuch as Toofoa, and Eooa ; and thirty-five of them large. Of thefe, only three were feen this voyage ; Ha- paee (which is confidered by the natives as one ifland), Ton- gataboo, and Eooa : of the fize of the unexplored thirty- two, nothing more can be mentioned, but that they mud 2 * be 367 368 >777- July- u — . — ' A VOYAGE TO be all larger than Annamooka ; which thofc, from whom wc had our information, ranked amongfl the fmaller ifles. Some, or indeed feveral, of this latter denomination, are mere fpots, without inhabitants. Sixty-one of thefe iflands have their proper places and names marked upon our chart of the Friendly Iflands, and upon the fketch of the harbour of Tongataboo, to both which I refer the reader. But it muft be left to future navigators, to introduce into the geography of this part of the South Pacific Ocean, the exafl fituation and fize of near a hundred more iflands in this neigh- bourhood, which we had not an opportunity to explore;, and whofc exiftence we only learnt from the teftimony of our friends, as above-mentioned. On their authority, the following lift of them was made ; and it may ferve as a ground-work for farther inveftigation. Names of the Friendly IJlands^ and others^ in that Neigh- bourhood^ mentioned by the Inhabitants of Annamooka y Hapaee^ and Tongataboo*, Komooefeeva, Kollalona, Felongaboonga, Rovereetoa, Fonogooeatta, Modooanoogoo noo- goo, Tongooa, Koooa, Fonooa eeka, Koogoofaecou, Koreemou, Failemaia, Koweeka, Konookoonama, Kooonoogoo, Geenageena, Kowourogoheefo, Kottejeea, Kokabba, Novababoo, Golabbe, Vagaeetoo, Gowakka, GoofoOy Mafanna, KoUoooa, Tabanna, Motooha, Looakabba, * Thofe iflands, which the natives re^rcfented as large ones, are diftinguifhed in Italics. • VavaoOi THE PACIFI-C OCEAN. 369 VavaoOt Koloa, Fafeene, Taoonga, Kobakeemotoo, Kongahoonoho, Komalla, Konoababoo, Konnetalle, KomongorafFa, Kotoolooa, Kologobeele, KoUokolahee, Matageefaia> Mallajee, Mallalahee, Gonoogoolaiee, Toonabai, Konnevy, Konnevao, Moggodoo, Looamoggo, Boloa, Toofagga, Loogoobahanga, Taoola, Maneeneeta, Fonooaooma, Fonooonneonne, Wegaffa, Fooamotcx), Fonooalaiee, Tattahoi, Latte, Neua/Of Feejee, Oowaiot Kongaiarahoif Kotoobooo, Komotte, Komoarra, KonnagillelaivoOi Toofanaetollo, Toofanaelaai KogoopoloOf Havaeeeehf tootooeehf Manooka, Lejhaingaf Pappataiot Loubatta, OhOf Takounove777' July. We have alfo very good authority to believe, that K.eppel*s and Bofcawen's Illands, two of Captain Wallis's difcoveries in 1765, are comprehended in our lift ; and that they are not only well known to thefe people, but are under the fame fovereign. The following information feemed to me deci- five as to this. Upon ray inquiring, one day, of Poulaho the king, in what manner the inhabitants of Tongataboo had acquired the knowledge Oi iron, and from what quar- ter they had procured a fmall iron tool, which I had feen amongft them, when I firft vificed their ifland, during my former voyage, he informed me, that they had received thi$ iron from an ifland, which he called Neeootabootaboo. Carrying my inquiries further, I then defired to know, whe- ther he had ever been informed, from whom the people of Neeootabootaboo had got it. I found him perfedlly acquaint- ed with its hiftory. He faid, that one of thofe iflanders fold a club, for five nails, to a fhip which had touched there; and that thefe five nails afterward were fent to Tongataboo. He added, that this was the firft iron known amongft them ; fo that, what Tafman left of that metal, muft have been worn out, and forgot long ago. I was very particular in my inquiries about the fituation, fize, and form of the ifland; ^prefling my defire to know when this Ihip had touched there ; how long fhe ftaid ; and whether any more were in company. The leading fad:s appeared to be frefli in his niemory. He faid, that there was but one fliip; that flie did not come to an anchor, but left the ifland after her boat had been on fhore. And from many circumftances, which he mentioned, it could not be many years fince this Htemjklrk's Banis. See Dalrymple's Colle£lion of Voyages to the South Pacific Ocean, Vol. ii. p. 83. } and Campbell's edition of Harris's, Vo). i. p. 325. had 'm.:^^^' THE PACIFIC OCEAN. had happened. According to his information, there arc two iflands near each oiher, which he himfelf had been at. The one he defcribed as high, and peaked Hke Kao, and he called it Kootahee ; the other, where the people of tlie (hip landed, called NeeootabootaboO, he reprefented as much lower. He added, that the natives of both are the fame fort of people with thofe of Tongataboo; built their canoes in the fame manner ; that their iflands had hogs and fowls ; and, in general, the fame vegetable producftions. The fliip, fo pointedly referred to, in this converfation, could be no other than the Dolphin ; the only fingle fliip from Europe, as far as we have ever learned, that had touched, of late years, at any ifland in this part of the Pacific Ocean» prior to my former vifit of the Friendly Iflands *. But the mofl: confiderable iflands in this neighbourhood, that we now heard of (and we heard a great deal about them), are Hamoa, Vavaoo, and Feejee. Each of thefe was reprefented to us as larger than Tongaraboo. No European, that we know of, has, as yet, feen any one of them. Taf- man, indeed, lays down in his chart, an ifland nearly in the lituation where I fuppofe Vavaoo to be j that is, about the latitude of 19° f. But, then, that ifland is there marked as ♦ See Captain Wallis's Voyage, in Hawkefworth's CoHedion, Vol. i. p. 492— 494. Captain Wallis there calls both thefe iflands high ones. But the fuperior height of one of tiiem may be inferred, from his faying, that it appears Hie afugar- loaf. This ftrongly marlcs its refemblance to Kao. From comparing Pouiaho's in- telligence to Captain Cook, with Captain Wallis's account, it feems to be paft all doubt, that Bofcawen's Ifland is our Kootahee, and Keppel's Ifland our Neeootaboo- taboo. The laft is one of the large iflands marked in the foregoing lift. The reader, who has been already apprized of the variations of our people in writing down what the natives pronounced, will hardly doubt that Kottcjeea and Kootahee are the fame. ■}• Neither Dalrymple nor Campbell, in their accounts of Tafman's voyage, take any particul; notice of his having feen fuch an ifland. The chart here referred to, 3 B 2 by 371 •777. July. VJ^ 1777* ' July. A VOYAGE TO as a very fmall one ; whereas Vavaoo, according to rhc* united teftimony of all our friends at Tongataboo, exceeds* the fize of their own ifland, and has high mountains. I fhould certainly have vifited it ; and have accompanied Fee- nou from Hapaee, if he had not then difcouraged me, by reprefenting it to be very inconfiderable, and without any harbour. But Poulalio, the king, afterward afTured me, that it was a large ifland ; and that it not only produced evciy thing ill common with Tongataboo, but had the peculiar advantage of poflefling feveral flreams of freOi water, with as good a harbour as that which we found at his capital ifland. He offered to attend me, if I would vifit it ; adding, that, if I did not find every thing agreeing with his repre- fentation, I might kill him, I had. not the leaft doubt of the truth of his intelligence ? and was fatisficd that Feenou, from fome interefted view, attempted to do ceive me. Hamoa, which is alfo under the dominion of Tongatabooj lies two days fail North Weft from Vavaoo. It was de- fcribed to me, as the largeft of all their ifland-s ; as affording harbours and gCK)d water ; and as producing, in abundance^ every article of refrelhment found at the places we vifitecK Poulaho, himfelf, frequently refides there. It fhould feem,, that the people of this ifland are in high eftimation at Ton- gataboo; for we were told, that fome of the fongs and dances, with which we were entertained, had Ijeen copied from theirs ; and we faw fome houfes, faid to be built after their fafhion. Mr. Anderfon, always inquifitive about fuch by Captain Cook, is, probably, Mr. Dalrytnple's, in his ColIe<5lion of Voyage?, where Tafman's track is marked accurately j and feveral very fmall fpots of land are bid down in the fituation here mentioned.. matters. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. jmattcrs, learnt the three following words of the dialed of Hamoa« Tamolao*, a chief man^ Tamarty^ a chief woman. Solkt a common man. Feejee, * In two or three preceding notes, cxtrafls have been made from theLettres Edi' fanUs (J Curlcu/es, as marking a ftrong refemblance between fome of tiie cuftoms of the inhabitants of the Caroline Iflands, and thofe which Captain Cook defcribes aS prevailing at an immenfe diftance, in the iflands which he vifited in the South Pacific Ocean. Pofljbly, however, the prefumption, arifing from this refemblancc, that all thefc iflands were peopled by the fame nation, or tribe, may be refifted, under the plaufible pretence, that cuftoms very fimilar prevail amongft very diftant people, with- out inferring any other common fource, befides the general principles of human na- ture,, the fame in all ages, and every part of the globe. The reader, perh;ips, will rot think this pretence applicable to the matter before us, if he attends to the follow- ing very obvious dillindion : Thofe cuftoms wh'ch have their foundation in wants that arc common to the whole human fpecics, and which are confined to the contri- va,nce of means to relieve thofe wants, may well be fuppofed to bear a ftrong refem- blance, without warranting the conclufion, that they who ufe them have copied each other, or have derived th^m from one common fource ; human fagacity being the fame every where, and the means adapted to the relief of any particular natural want, efpe- cially in countries fimilarly uncultivated, being but few. Thus the moft diftant tribes, as widely feparated as Terra del Fuego is from the iflands Eaft of Kamt- ithatka, may, both of them, produce their fire, by rubbing two flicks upon each other, without giving us the leaft foundation for fuppofing, that either of them imitated the other, or derived the invention from a fource of inftruiSlion common to both. But this feems not to be the cafe, with regard to thofe cuftoms to which no general principle of human nature has given birth, and which have their eflabliflimcnt folely from tlie endlefs varieties of local whim, and national "fiifhion. Of this latter kind, thofe cuftoms obviously are, that belong both to the North, and to the South Pacific Iflands, from which, we would infer, that they were originally one nation; and the men of Miingeea, and the men of the New Philippines, who pay their re- fpedls to a perfon whom they mean to honour, by rubbing his hand over their faces, bid fair to have learnt their mode of falutation in the fame fchool. But if this obfer- vation (hould not have removed the doubts of the fceptical refiner, probably he will hardly venture to perfift in denying the identity of race, contended for in the prefent inftance, when he ftiall obfcrve, that, to the proof drawn from affinity of cuftoms, we have it in our power to add that moft unexceptionable one, drawn from affinity of Imguage. Tamoloa, we now knov.', is the v/ord ufed at Hamoa, one of the Friendly Iflands, to fignify a Chief; and whoever looks into the Lettres Edlfiantes i^ Curieufes, will fee, thai this is the very name by which the inhabitants of the Caroline Iflands diftinguiik 375 ^777' July. 374 A VOYAGE TO >777- Jul Feejee, as we were told, lies three days fail from Tonga* taboo, in the dircdion of North Weft by Weft. It was de- fcribed to us as a high, but very fruitful ifland ; abounding with hogs, dogs, fowls, and all the kinds of fruit and roots that are found in any of the others ; and as much larger than Tongataboo ; to the dominion of which, as was re- prefented to us, it is not fubje(5l, as the other iflands of this archipelago are. On the contrary, Feejee and Tongataboo frequently make war upon each other. And it appeared, from feveral circumftances, that the inhabitants of the lat- ter are much afraid of this enemy. They ufed to expr^fs their fenfe of their own inferiority to the Feejee men, by bending the body forward, and covering the face with their hands. And it is no wonder, that they (hould be under this dread ; for thofe of Feejee are formidable on account of the dexterity with which they ufe their bows and flings j but much more fo, on account of the favage pra(5lice to which they are addidled, like thofe of New Zealand, of eating their enemies, whom they kill in battle. We were fatisfied, that this was not a mifrepreletitation. For we met with feveral Feejee people at Tongataboo, and, on inquir- ing of them, they did not deny the charge. Now, that I am again led to fpeak of cannibals, let me afk thofe who maintain, that the want of 4^ood firft brings men to feed on human flefh, What is it that induceth the diftinguifli their principal men. We have, in two preceding notes, iiiferted paflages from Father Cantova's account of them, where theW Tamoks are fpolcen of; and he repeats the word at icaft a dozen times, in the courfe of a few pages. But I cannot avoid tranfcribing, from him, the following very decifive teftimony, which renders any other quotation fuperftuous. " L'autoritie du Gouverncment fe partage entre *' pluficurs families nobles, do.u Ics Chefs s'appellent Tamoles. II y a outre cela, ** dans chaquc province, un principalc Tamo/e, auquel tous les autrcs font foumis.'-' Lcttres Edlfiantes £jf Curieufes^ Tom. xv. p. 312. 3 Feejee THE PACIFIC OCEAN. S7S Feejec people to keep it up, in the midft of plenty ? This pradicc is dcteftcd, very much, by thofc of Tongataboo, who cultivate the friemliliip of their favage neighbours of Feejec, apparently out of fear ; though they fometimes ven- ture to fkirmilh with thcrn, on their own ground; and carry ofF red feathers, as their booty, which are in great plenty there, and, as has been frequently mentioned, are in great eftimation amongft our Friendly Iflanders. When the two iflands are at pe;ice, the intercourfe between them feems to be pretty frequent ; though they have, doubtlefs, been but lately known to each other ; or we may fuppofe, that Tongataboo, and its adjoining iflands, would have been fupplied, before this, with a breed of dogs, which abound at Feejee, and had not been introduced at Tongataboo, fo late as 1773, when I firft vifited it. The natives of Feejee, whom we met with here, were of a colour that was a full Ihade darker, than that of the inhabitants of the Friendly Iflands in general. One of them had his left ear flit, and the lobe was fo diftended, that it almoft reached his flioulder ; which Angularity I had met with at other iflands of the South Sea, during my fecond voyage. It appeared to me, that the Feejee men, whom we now faw, were much refpe(5led here ; not only, perhaps, from the power, and cruel manner of their nation's going to war. bur, alfo, from their ingenuity. For they feeni to excel the inhabitants of Tongataboo in that refpedl, if we might judge from feve- ral fpecimens of their flcill in workmanlhip, which we faw; fuch as clubs and fpears, which were carved in a very mafterly manner ; cloth beautifully chequered; variegated mats ; earthen pots ; and fome other articles ; all which had a caft of fuperiority in the execution. " I have '777- July. ^ 376 A VOYAGE TO '777. July. I have mentioned, that Fccjce lies three days fail from Tongataboo, becaufc thefe people have no other method of meafuring the diftancc from ifland to iiland, but by exprclP ing the time rccjuircd to make the voyage, in one of their canoes. In order to afcertain this, with fome precifion, or, at lead, to form forae judgment, how far thefc canoes can fail, in a moderate gale, in any given time, I went on board one of them, when under fail, and, by feveral trials with the log, found that flie went feven knots, or miles, in an hour, clofc hauled, in a gentle gale. From this I judge, that they will fail, on a medium, with fuch breezes as ge- nerally blow in their fca, about {even or eight miles in an hour. But the length of each day is not to be reckoned at twenty-four hours. For when they fpeak of one day's fail, they mean no more than from the morning to the evening of the fame day ; that is, ten or twelve hours at moft. And two days fail, with them, fignifies from the morning of the firft day, to *he evening of the fecond; and fo for any other number of days. In thefe navigations, the fun is their guide by day, and the ftars by night. When thefe are obfcured, they have recourfe to the points from whence the winds and ihe waves can:,e upon the vefTel. If, during the obfcuration, both the wind and the waves fliould fliifc (which, within the limits of the iradc-wind, feldom happens at any other time), they are Uien bewildered, frequently mifs their intended port, and are never heard of more. The hiftory of Omai's countrymen; who were driven to Wa- teeoo, leads us to infer, that thofe not heard of, are not always loft. Of all the harbours and anchoring places I have met with, amonglt thefe iilaads, that of Tongataboo is, by far, the 5 beft; THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 377 bed ; not only on account of its great fecurity, but of its capacity, and of the goodncfs of its bottom. The rifk that we ran, in entering it from the North, ought to be a fuffi- cient caution, to every future Commander, not to attempt that palFage again with a fliip of burden -, fincc the other, by which we left it, is fo much more eafy and fafe. To fail into it, by this Eadern channel, fleer in for the North Eaft point of the ifland, and keep along the North fhore, with the fmall ifles on your (larboard, till you are the length of the Eaft point of the entrance into the lagoon ; then edge over for the reef of the fmall ifles ; and, on following its direcflion, it will condud you through between Makkahaaa and Monooafai, or the fourth and fifth ifles, which you will perceive to lie off the Weft point of the iagoon. Or you may go between the third and fourth iflands, that is, between Pangimodoo and Monooafai ; but this channel is much narrower than the other. There runs a very ftrong tide in both. The flood, as I have obferved before, comes in from the North Weft, and the ebb returns the fame way ; but I (hall fpeak of the tides in another place. As foon as you are through either of thefe channels, haul in for the fliorc of Tongataboo, and anchor between it and Pangimodoo, before a creek leading into the lagoon ; into which boats can go at half flood. Although Tongataboo has the beft harbour, Annamooka furniflies the beft water ', and yet, it cannot be called good. However, by digging holes near the fide of the pond, we can get what may be called tolerable. This ifland, too, is the beft fituated for drawing refrefliments from all the others, as being nearly in the centre of the whole group. Bcfides the road in which we anchored, and the harbour within the South Weft point, there is a creek in the reef. Vol. I. 3 C • before «777- July. ■ w 37^ A VOYAGE TO «777- ■■^' before the Faftern fandy cove, on the North fide of the ifland, in which two or three fhipa may lie very fccurely, by mooring head and (Icrn, with their anchors or moorings fafl to the rocks. I have already defcribed the Hapaee iflands ; and fliall only add to that defcription, by mentioning, that ihcy ex- tend South Weft by South, and North Eaft by North, about nineteen miles. The North end lies in the latitude of i^'' 39' South, and 33' of longitude to the Eaft of Annamonka Between them, are a great many fmall iflands, fand-banks, and breakers j fo that the fafcll way to arrive at Hapaee, is cither by the courfe I held, or round by the North; accord- ing to the fituation of the fliip bound thither. Lefooga, ofT which we anchored, is the moft fertile ifle of thofe that arc called Hapaee ; and, confequently, is the bcft inhabited. There is anchorage along the North Well: fide of this ifland; but it will be neceflary to examine the ground well before you moor. For, although the lead may bring up fine fa rid, there are, neverthelefs, fome fliarp coral rocks, that would foon dcftroy the cables. They who want a more particular defcription of the Friendly Iflands, mutt have recourfe to the chart that wc conftrudted. There, every thing is delineated with as much accuracy as circumftances would permit. Recourfe nuirt, alfo, be had, to the fame chart, for the better tracing the fe- veral ftations of the (hips, and their route from the one ifland to the other. To have fwcllcd my journal with a minute account of bearings, tackings, and the like, would neither have been entertaining nor inftru(5live. What has been here omitted, concerning the geography of ihefe iflands, will be found in the narrative of my t . laft TFIE PACIFIC OCEAN. laft voyage*. To that narrative I mud alio refer f, for fuch paniculara concerning the inhabitants, their manners, and arcs, as I had obicrved then, and about which 1 law no rcafon to change my judgment. At prefent, I (hall confine niytelt to fuch inierclling particulars, as cither were not mentioned in that narrative, oi- were impcrfcAly and incor* redly reprefented there ; and to fuch as may Icrvc to ex- plain fomc pafTages in the foregoing account of our tranf- at^iona with the natives. It may, indeed, be expC(5l:ed, that, after fpcnding between two and three months amongft them, I fhould be enabled to clear up every difficulty, and to give a tolerably fatisfac- tory account of their cuftoms, opinions, and inftitutions, both civil and religious; efpccially as we had a perfon on board, who might be fuppofed qualified to adl the part of an interpreter, by undcrftanding their language and ours. But poor Omai was very deficient. For unlefs the objccfl or thing we wanted to inquire about, was actually before us, vre found it difficult to gain a tolerable knowledge of ir, from information only, without falling into a hundred millakes ; and to fuch miftakea Omai was more liable than we were. For, 'iaving no curiofity, he never gave himfelf ihe trouble to make remarks for himfelf; and, when he was difpofed to explain matters to us, his ideas appeared to l>c fo limited, and, perhaps, fo diil'erent from ours, that his accounts were often fo confufed, as to perplex, inflead of inflru<5ting us. Add to this, that it was very rare that we found, amongd the natives, a perfon, who united the abi- lity and the inclination to give us the information we wanted ; and, we found, that moll of them hated to be • Cook's Voyage, Vol, i. p. 211. 213. f Ibid. p. 213. 225. 3 C a troubled 379 July- 38o A VOYAGE TO July. trouUed with what they, probably, thought idle quef- tions. Our jQtuation at Tongataboo, where we remained the longeft, was, likewife, unfavourable. It was in a part of the country, where there were few inhabitants, except fiQicrs.. It was always holiday with our viliter.s, as well as with thofe we vifited ; fo that we had but few opportunities of obferving, what was really the domeflic way of living of the natives. Under thefe difadvantages, it is not fur- prizing, that we fhould not be able to bring away with ua fatisfaftory accounts of many things ; but fome of us en- deavoured to remedy thof€ difadvantages, by diligent obfer- vation ; and I am indebted to Mr. Andcrfon, for a confiderable ihare of what follows, in this and in the following chapter. In other matters, I have only exprefled, nearly in his words* remarks that coincided with mine; but what relates to the religion and language of thefe people, is entirely his own. The natives of the Friendly Iflands feldom exceed the common flamre (though we have meafured fome, who were above lix feet); but are very ftrong, and well made ^ efpecially as to their limbs. They are generally broad about the ihoulders ; and though the mufcular difpofition of the men, which feems a confequence of much a^ion, rather conveys ihe appearance of ftrengih than of beauty, there are feveral to be feen, who are really handfome; Their features are very various ; infomuch, that it is- fcarcely poflible to fix on any general likenefs, by which to cliar'iAerize them, unlefs it be a fullnefs at the point of- the nofe, which is very common. But, on the other hand, we met with hundreds of truly European faces, and many ge- nuine Roman nofes, amongft them. Their eyes and teeth are good; but the laft neifher fo remarkably white, nor fo welt THE PACIFrC OCEAN. 38 r Trell fct as is often found amongft Indian nations ; though, to balance that,, few of them have any uncommon thick- nefs about the lips, a defe(5l as frequent as the other per- fe(5tion. The women are no" fo much difttnguifiied from the men by their features as by their general form, which is, for the moft parr, deftitute of that ftrong flefliy firmnefs that appears in the ktter. Though the features of fome are fo delicate, ^s not only to be a true index of their fex, but to lay claim to a confiderable ihare of beauty and expreflion, the rule is, by no means, fo general as in many other couu'- tries. But, at the fame time, this is frequently the moft exceptionable part ; for the bodies and limbs of moft of the females are well proportioned; and fome, abfolutely, perfe<5V models of a beautiful figure. But the moft remarkable dif- tin(5lion in the women, is the uncoinmon fmallnefs and. delicacy of their fingers, which piay be put in. competition with the fineftin Eurppe^ .,■ , The general colour is a caft deeper than the copper brown ; but feveral of the men and women have a true olive coir- plexion ; and fome of the laft are even a great deal fairer ;- which is probably the efFedt of being lefs expofed to the fun ^^ as a tendency to corpulence, in a few of the principal people, feems to be the confequence of a more indolent life. It is alfo amongft the laft, that a fbft clear fkin is moft frequently obferved; Amongft the bulk of the people, the fkin is, more commonly, of a dull hue, with fome degree o£ roughnefs, efpecially the parts that are not covered ; which,, perhaps, may be occafioned by fome cutaneous difeafe. We faw a man and boy at Hapaee, and a child at Anna- siooka, perfectly white. Such have been found among^l all- black. July. 88a A VOYAGE TO »777- July. black nations ; but, I apprehend, that tlveir colour is ra- ther a djfeafe, than a natural phasnomcnon. There are, neverthelefs, upon the whole, few natural defe(5ts or deformities to be found amongft them ; though wc faw two or three with their feet bent inward ; and fome afflitfted with a fort of blindnefs, oGcafioncd by a difeafe of the coriua. Neitlwr arc they exempt from fome other dif- ctifes. The mcft common of wliich is the tetter, or ring- worm, that feems to aifeiSk almoft one half of them, and leaves whitifli ferperitine marks, every where, behind. iri But this is of lefs confequence than another difeafe, which is very frequent, and appears on every part of the body, in large broad ulcers with thiek white edges, difcharging a 777' July. CHAP.. 3?o i. VOYAGE TO CHAP. xr. Employments of the Wometi^ at the Friendly Iflands."^ Of the Men, — /Agriculture, — ConfiruEiion of their Houfes.-'-Theit working Tools. — Cordage^ and fi/hing Implements, — Mujical Infiruments. — Weapons, — Foody and Cookery. — Amufements. — Marriage. — Mourning Ceremonies for the Dead. — Their Divinities. — Notio'ts about the Souty and a future State. — Their Places of IVorfhip, — Government. — Manner of paying Oheifdnce to the King. — Account of the Royal Family. — Remarks on their Language^ and a Specimen of it*— Nautical^ and other Obfervatiom , I777- July. THEIR domeftic' life is of that middle kind, neither fo laborious as to be difagreeable, nor fo vacant as to fuffer them to degenerate into indolence. Nature has done fo much for their country, that the firft can hardly occur, and their difpofition leeras to be a pretty good bar to the laft. By this happy combination of circumftances, their neceflary labour feems to yield, in its turn, to their recrea- lions, in fuch a manner, that the latter are never inter- rupted by the thoughts of being obliged to recur to the former, till fatiety makes them wifh for fuch a tranfition. The employment of the v^omen is of the eafy kind, and, for the moft part, fuch as may be executed in the houfe. The manufadluring their cloth, is wholly configned to their ~ care. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 391 care. Having already defcribed the proctiS I (hall only add, that they have this cloth of different degrees of finc- nefs. 7he coarfer fort, of which they make very large pieces, does not receive the impreffion of any pattern. Of the finer fort, they have fome that is ftriped, and chequered, and of other patterns differently coloured. But how ihefe colours are laid on, I cannot fay, as I never faw any of this fort made. The cloth, in general, will refift water, for fome time ; but that which has the flrongell glaze will rcfiil; longeft. The manufadture next in confequence, and alfo within the department of the women, is that of their mats, which excel every thing I have feen at any other place, both as to their texture and their beauty. In particular, many of them are fo fupcrior to thofe made at Otaheite, that they are not a bad article to carry thither, by way of trade. Of thefe mats, they have feven or eight different forts, for the purpoles of wearing or fleeping upon ; and many are merely ornamental. The laft are chiefly made from the tough, membraneous part of the ftock of the plantain tree ; thofe that they wear, from the pandanus, cultivated for that pur- pofe, and never fuffered to (hoot into a trunk ; and the coarfer fort, which they fleep upon, from a plant called evarra. Thcue are many other articles of lefs note, that employ the fpare time of their females ; as combs, of which they make vaft numbers; and little bafkets made of the fame fubQance as the mats, and others of the fibrous cocoa- nut hufk, either plain, or interwoven with fmall beads ; but all, finiflied with fuch neatnefs and tafte in the difpofi- tion of the various parts, that a Itranger cannot help ad- miring their affiduity and dexterity. •777. July. The 39» A VOYAGE TO >777- July. The province allotted to the men is, as might be cxpcdcd, far more laborious and cxtcnfivc than that of the women. Agriculture, architecfture, boat-building, filhing, and other things that relate to navigation, arc the objeifis of their care*» Cultivated roots and fruits being their principal fupport, this requires their conftant attention to agriculture, which they purfuc very diligently, and feem to have brought almofl: to as great perfc<5lion as circumftances will permit. The large extent of the plantain fields has been taken notice of already ; and the fame may be faid of the yams ; thefe two together, being, at leaft, as ten to one, with refpe<5l to all the other articles. In planting both thefe, they dig fmall holes for their reception, and, afterward, root up the furrounding grafs, which, in this hot coimtry, is quickly deprived of its vegetating power, and, foon rotting, becomes a good manure. The inftruments they ufe for this purpofe, which they call hooot are nothing more than pickets or flakes of different lengths, according to the depth tlipy have to dig. Thefe arc flattened and fharpened to an edge at one end ; and the largeft have a fhort piece fixed tranfverfely, for prefllng it into the ground with the foot. With thefe, though they are not more than from two to four inches broad, they dig and plant ground of many acres in extent. In planting the plantains and yams, they obferve fo much exadlnefs, that, whichever way you look, the rows prefent themfelves regular and complete. ♦ How remarkably does Ca])tain Cook's account of the employments of the women and men hero, agree with Father Cantova's, of the Caroline Iflanders? — «« La " principiile occijpation des hommes, eft dc coiiftruirc dcs barques, de pecher, & de " cultiver la terre. L'affaire des femmes eft dc faire la cuifine, & de mettre en •*' OEuvjre un efpccc de plante fauvage, &un arbre,— pour en faire de la toile." Letha Edif antes £3" Curieu/Uf Tom. xv. p. 313. The THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 393 Th*! cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees arc fcattcrcd about, without any order, and fcem to give them no trouble, after they have attained a certain height. The fame may be faid of another large tree, which produces great numbers of a large, roundirti, comprcfTed nut, called eeefee ; and of a fmaller tree, that bears a rounded oval nut, two inches long, with -two or three triangular kernels, tough and infipid, called mahba^ mod frequently planted near their houfcs. The kappe is, commonly, regularly planted, and in pretty large fpots ; but the maivhaha is interfperfed ampngft other things, as the jeejee and yams are ; the laft of which, I have frequently feen, in the interfpaces of the plantain trees, at their common didanc^. Sugar-cane is commonly in fmall fpots, crowded clofely together ; and the mulberry, of which the cloth is made, though without order, has fuffi- cient room allowed for it, and is kept very clean. The only other plant, that they cultivate for their manufac- tures, is the pandanus ; which is generally planted in ?. row, clofe together, at the fide*s of the other fields ; and they confider it as a thing fo diftind in this ftate, that they have a diiFerent name for it ; which fhews, that they arc very fenfible of the great changes brought about by cultivation. It is remarkable, that thefe people, who, in many things, fliew much tafte and ingenuity, fliould fliew little of either in building their houfes ; though the defe(5l: is rather in the defign, than in the execution. Thofe of the lower people are poor huts, fcarcely fufficient to defend them from the weather, and very fmall. Thofe of the better fort, are larger and more comfortable ; but not what one might ex- pedl. The dimenfions of one of a middling fize, are about thirty feet long, twenty broad, and twelve high. Their houfe is, properly fpeaking, a thatched roof or flicd, fup- VoL. I. 3 E ported >777' July. 594 AVOYAGE TO ported by pofls and rafters, difpofed in a very judicious manner. Tlie floor is raifed with earth fmoothed, and co- vered with ftrong, thick matting, and kept very clean. The moft of them are clofed on the weather fide (and fome more than two-thirds round), with ftrong mats., or v»nth branches of the cocoa-nut tree, plaited or woven into each other. Thefe they fix up edgewife, reaching from the eaves to the ground ; and thus they anfwer the purpofe of a wall. A thick, ftrong ma. about two and one half or three ftci broad, bent into the form of a femicircle, and fet upon its edge, with the ends, touching the fide of the houfe, in Ihape reiembling the fender of a fire hearth, inclofes a fpace for the matter and miftrefs of the family to fleep in. The lady, indeed, fpends moft of her time, during the day, wuiiin it. The rell of the family fleep upon the floor, wherever they pleafe to lie down ; the unmarried men and women apart from each other. Or, if the family be large, there are fmall huts adjoining, to which the fervants retire in the n.ght; fo that privacy is as much obferved here, as one could ex- pert. They have mats made on purpofe f'^r fleeping on ; and the clothes that they wear in the day, fervc for their covering in the night. Their whole furniture confifts of a bowl or two, in which they make kava; a few gourds; cocoa-nut fliells ; fome fmall wooden ftools, which ferve ihcm for pillows ; and, perhaps, a large ftool for the Chief, or Mafter, of the family to fit upon. The only probable reafon I can aflign for their negle6l of ornamental architctfture, in the conftru(5lion of their houfes, is their being fond of living much in the open air. Indeed, they feem to confider tlieir houfes, within which they feldom cat, as of little ufe but to fleep in, and to retire to in bad weather. And the lower fort of people, who fpend a great part THE PACIFIC OCEAN. part of their time in clofe attendance upon the Chiefs, can have little ufe for their own houfes, but in the laft cafe. They make amends for the defefts of their houfes, by their great attention to, and dexterity in, naval architecture, if I may be allowed to give it that name, but I refer to the narrative of my laft voyage, for an account Of their canoes, and their manner of building and navigating them.* The only tools which they ufe, to conftrudt thefe boats, are hatchets, or rather thick adzes, of a fmooth black ftone that abounds at Toofoa ; augres, made of (hark's teeth, fixed on fmall handles ; and rafps, of a rough fkin of a fifh, faftcned on flat pieces of wood, thinner on one lide, which alfo have handles. The labour and time employed in flnifhing their canoes, which are the rnoft perfedl of their mechanical produdlions, will account for their being very careful of them. For they are built and preferved under ftieds ; or they cover the decked part of them with cocoa-leaves, when they are hauled on (hore, to prevent their being hurt by the fun. The fame tools are all they have for other works ; if we except different (hells, which they ufe as knives. But there are few of their productions that require thefe, unlefs it be fome of their weapons j the other articles being chiefly their filhing materials, and cordage. The cordage is made from the fibres of the cocoa-nut hufk, which, though not more than nine or ten inches long, they plait, about the fize of a quill, or Id's, to any length • Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. pi 2t5, 2t6. The tender, by comparing that account, witii what Cantova fays of the fca-boats of the Caroline Iflands, will find, in this inftance, alio, the greateft fimilarity. See Lettres Edifitfita (J* Curie^fts, p. 286. 3 E a that 395 >777- July. 396 A VOYAGE TO >777- July, U—- V — -^ that they pleafe, and roll it up in balls ; from which the larger ropes are made, by twifting feveral of thefe together. The lines, that they fifh with, are as flrong and even as the beft cord we make, refembling it almoft in every refpedl. Their other fifhing implements, are large and fmall hooks. The laft are compofed entirely of pearl-fhell j but the firft are only covered with it on the back ; and the points of both, commonly, of tortoife-fhell ; thofe of the fmall be- ing plain, and the others barbed. With the large ones, they catch bonnetos and albicores, by putting them to a bamboo rod, twelve or fourteen feet long, with a line of the fame length, which refts in a notch of a piece of wood, fixed in the ftern of the canoe for that purpofe, and is dragged on the furface of the fea, as flie rowes along, without any other bait than a tuft of flaxy ftufF near the point. They have alfo great numbers of pretty fmall fcines, fome of which are of a very delicate texture. Thefe they ufe to catch j5(h with, in the holes on the reefs, when the tide ebbs. The other manual employments, confift chiefly in making mufical reeds, flutes, warlik>j weapons, and ftools, or rather pillows, to fleep on. The reeds have eight, nine, or ten pieces placed parallel to each other, but not in any regular progreflion ; having the longeft, fometimes, in the middle, and feveral of the fame length -, fo that I have feen none with more than fix notes ; and they feem incapable of play- ing any mufic on them, that is diftinguifliable by our ears*. The flutes are a joint of bamboo, clofe at both ends, with a hole near each, and four others ; two of which, and one of the fird only, are ufed in playing. They apply the thumb * See a drawing of one of thefe mufical reeds, in Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. i% p. 221. Plate XXI. 7 of THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 397 of the left hand, to clofe the left noftril, and blow into the hole at one end, with the other. The middle finger of the left hand is applied to the firft hole on the left, and the fore- finger of the right, to the loweft hole on that fide. In this manner, though the notes are only three, they produce a pleafing, yet fimple, mufic, which they vary much more than one would think pofllble, with fo imperfedt an inftru- ment. Their being accuftomed to a mufic which confifts of fo few notes, is, perhaps, the reafon why they do not feem to relifh any of ours, which is fo complex. But they can tafte what is more deficient than their own; for, we ob- ferved, that they ufed to be well pleafed with hearing the chant of our two young New Zealanders, which confided rather in mere ftrength, than in melody of expreflion. The weapons, which they make, are clubs of different forts (in the ornamenting of which they fpend much time), fpears, and darts. They have alfo bows and arrows ; but thefe feemed to be defigned only for amufement, fuch as flioot- ing at birds, and not for military purpofes. The fiools are about two feet long, but only four or five inches high, and near four broad, bending downward in the middle, with four flrong legs, and circular feet ; the whole made of one piece of black or brown wood, neatly polifhed, and fome- times inlaid with bits of ivory. They alfo inlay the handles of fly-flaps with ivory, after being neatly carved ; and they fhape bones into fmall figures of men, birds, and other things, which Tiufl: be very difl[icult, as their carving inftru- ment is only a fliark's tooth. Yams, plantains, and cocoa nuts, compofe the greateft part of their vegetable diet. Of their animal food, the chief articles are hogs, fowls, fifh, and all forts of fliell-fifli; but the lower people eat rats. The two firfl vegetable articles, with '777- July. 39^ A VOYAGE TO 1777* July. with bread-fruit, are, what may be called, the bails of their food, at different timei:^ of the year, with fifli and fhell-fifli ; for hogs, fowls, and turtle, feem only to be occafional dainties, referved for their Chiefs. The in- tervals between the feafons of thefe vegetable produc- tions mull be, fometimes, confiderable, as they prepare a fort of artificial bread from plantains, which they put under ground before ripe, and fuffer them to remain, till they ferment, when they are taken out, and made up into fmall balls ; but fo four and indifferent, that they often faid our bread was preferable, though Ibmewhat mufly. Their food is, generally, drefTed by baking, in the fame manner as at Otaheitc } and they have the art of making* from different kinds of fruit, feveral diflies, which moft of us efteemed very good. I never faw them make ufe of any kind of fauce; nor dklnk any thing at their meals but water, or the juice of the cocoa-nut ; for the kava is only their morning draught. I cannot fay, that they are cleanly either in their cookery, or manner of eating. The gene- - rality of t'^em vill lay their viifluals upon the firfl leaf they meet with, however dirty it may be ; but when food is ferved up to the Chiefs, it is, commonly, laid upon green plantain leaves. When the king made a meal, he was, for the moft part, attended upon by three Or four perfons. One cut large pieces of the joint, or of the fifli; another divided it into mouthfuls ; and others flood by with cocoa-nuts, and ^ whatever elfe he might want. I never f.iw a large com- pany ft down to what we fhould call a fociable meal, by eating from the fam difti. The food, be what it will, is al- ways divided into portions, each to ferve a certain number; thefe portions are again fubdivided j fo that one feldom fees above two or three perfons eating together. The women . J are THE PACIFIC OCEAN. are not excluded from eating with the men ; hut there are certain ranks or orders amongft them, that can neither eat nor drink together. This diftindion begins with the king ; but where it ends, I cannot fay. They feem to have no fet time for meals ^ though it ihould be obferved, that, during our flay amongft them, their domeftic oeconomy was much difturbed by their con- ftant atte,. on to us. As far as we could remark, thofe of the fuperior rank, only drink kava in the forenoon, and the others ear, perhaps, a bit of yam ; but we commonly faw all of them eat fomething in the afternoon. It is probable that the practice of making a meal in the night is pretty common, and their reft being thus interrupted, they frequently ileep in the day. They go to bed as fcon as ir is dark, and rife with the dawn in the morning *. They are very fond of afTociating together j fo that it is common to fjnd feveral houfcs empty, and the owners of them convened in fome other one, or, rather, upon a con- venient fpot in the neighbourhood, where they recreate themfelves by converfing, and other amufements. Their private diverfions are chiefly finging, dancing, and mufic performed by the women. When two or three women fing, in concert, and fnap their fingers, it is called oobai\ but when there is a greater number, they divide into feveral parties, each of which fmgs on a difFerent key, which makes a very agreeable mufic, and is called beeva., or hatva. In the fame manner, they vary the niufic of their flutes, by play- ing on thofe of a diflerent fize ; but their dancing is miicb the fame as when they perform publickly. The dancing 399 >777- July. • Cantova fays of his iflandcrs, " lis prer.ncnt Icur rcpoe des que !e fokil eft couche,. ** ic ils fe levent avec Taurore." Leitres Edifiaiitei b' Ct.ricufes, Tom. xv, p. 314. of 40O >77T. July. A VOYAGE TO of the men (if it ir to be called dancing), although it does not confift much in moving the feet, as we do, has a thou- fand difTcrent motions with the hands, to which we are entire ftrangers ; and they are performed with an eafe and grace which are not to be defcribed, nor even conceived, but by thofe who have feen them. But I need add nothing to what has been already faid on this fubjetfl, in the account of the ii.cidents that happened during our flay at the iflands*. Whether their marriages be made lafting by any kind of folemn contratft, we could not determine with precifion; but * If, to the copious defcripttons that occur in the preceding piiges, of the parti- cular entertainments exhibited in Hapaee and Tongataboo, we add the general view of the ufual amufemcnts of the inhabitants of thefe iflands, contained in this para- graph, and compare it with the quotation from the Jefuit's Letters, in a former note (p. 255.), we fhall be ftill more forcibly ftruck with the reafonablenefs of tracing fuch fmgularly refembling cuftoms to one common fource. The argument, in confirmation of this, drawn from identity of language, has been already illuftrated, by obferving the remarkable coincidence of the name, by which the Chiefs at the Caroline Iflands, and thofe at Hamao, one of the Friendly ones, are diftinguiflied. But the argument does not reft on a fmgle inftance, though that happens to be a very ftriking one. Ano'her of the very few fpcciinens of thediale£l of the North Pacific Iflanders, preferved by father Cantova, furniflies an additional proof. Immediately after the paflage above referred to, he proceeds thus : " Cc divertiflement s'appellc, en leur " hngue, tanger ifalfil; qui vcut dire, la plainte des femmes." Lettres Edifiantes & Cu- ihufes, Tom. xv. p. 31 ^. Now it is very remarkable, that we learn from Mr. An- dcrfon's colleftion of words, which will appear in this chapter, that la plainte des fermiies, or, in Englifli, the mournful fong of the women, which the mliabitants of the Caroline Iflands exprcfs in their language tanger ifaifl, would, by thofe of Tongata- boo, be exprefled tatigee vefa'me. If any one fhould ftill doubt, in fpite of this evidence, it may be recommended to his confidcration, that long fcparation, and other caufes, have introduced greater va- riations in the mode of pronouncing thefe two words, at places confeflicdly inhabited by the fame race, than fubfift in the fpccimen juft given. It appears, from Mr. An- dcrfoij's vocabulary, printed in Captain Cook's fecond voyage, that what is pronounced tangct at the Friendly Iflands, is taee at Otaheitej and the vefaine of the former, is tlic ivd'eine of the latter. • • It THE PACIFIC OCEAN. it is certain, that the bulk of the people fatisfied thcmfelves with one wife. ' The Chiefs, however, have, commonly, fcveral women * ; though fome of us were of opinion, that there was only one that was looked upon as the miftrefs of the family. As female chaftiiy, at firft figh;, feemed to be held in no great eftimation, we expe(5ted to have found frequent breaches of their conjugal fidelity ; but we did them great injuftice. I do not know that a fingle inftance happened during our whole (lay |. Neither are thofe of the better fort, that are unmarried, more free of their favours. It is true, there was no want of thofe of a different charadler ; and, perhaps, fuch are more frequently met with here, in, proportion to the number of people, than in many other countries. But it appeared to me, that the moft, if not all of them, were of the lowed clafs ; and fuch of them as per- mitted familiarities to our people, were proftitutes by pro- feffion. Nothing can be a greater proof of the humanity of thefe people, than the concern they fhew for the dead J. To ufe a common expreilion, their mourning is not in words but deeds. For, beSdes the tooge mentioned before, and burnt circles and fears, they beat the teeth with ftones, ftrike a fhark's tooth into the head until the blood flows in ftreams, and ihrull fpears into the inner part of the thigh, into their * Cantova fays of his Caroline iflanders, " La pluralitc des femmes eft non •' feulement permife a tous ces infulaircs, elle eft encore une marque d'honneur & " de diftindion. Le Tamole de I'ifle d'HuogoIeu en a ncuf." Leitrcs Edifantes^ Ctiiieufcs, Tom. xv. p, 310. f At the Caroline Iflands, ** lis ont horreur de I'adultcre, comme d*une grand " peche." Ibid. Tom. xv. p. 310. t How the inhabitants of the Caroline Iflands exprefs their grief on fuch occa- fions, may be fecn, Ibid, Tom. xv. p. 308. 401 •777- July. Vol. I. F fides 40S 1777. July. A VOYAGE TO fides below the arm-pits, and tlirough the cheeks into the mouth. All thefe operations convey an idea of fuch rigorous difcipline, as mull require either an uncommon degree of affeftion, or the grolTcfi fuperftition» to exa(5l. I will not fay, that the laft has no fliare in it ; for, fometimes, it is fo univerfal, that many could not have any knowledge of the perfon for whom the concern is exprefled. Thus we faw the people of Tongataboo mourning the death of a Chief at Vavaoo ; and other Cmilar inftances occurred during our (lay. It fhould be obferved, however, that the more pain- ful operations are only pracflifed on account of the death of thofe moft nearly conne<5led with the mourners. When a perfon dies, he is buried, after being wrapped up in mats and cloth, much after our manner. The Chiefs feera to have the fatookas appropriated to them as their burial- places ; but the common people are interred in no parti* cular fpot *. What part of the mourning ceremony follows,., immediately after, is uncertain ; but, that there is fome- thing befides the general one, which is continued for a con- fiderable length of time, we could infer, from being inform^ ed, that the funeral of Mareewagee's wife, as mentioned" before, was to be attended with ceremonies that were to laft five days ; and in which all the principal people were to commemorate her. Their long and general mourning, proves that they con-- fider death as a very great evil. And this is confirmed by a * Cantova's recount of the pra6lice of the Caroline Iflands is as follows : " Lorf- *' qu'il meurt quelque perfonne d'un rang diftingue, ou qui leur eft chere par d'autres " endroits, fes obfeques le font avec pompe. II y en a qui renferment le corps du " defunft dans un petit edifice de pierre, qu'ils gardent au-dedans de leur maifons. " D'autres les entcrrent loin de leurs habitations." Littres Edijkni'.s (J Curieii/es, Tom. xv. p. 308, 309. ' very THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 403 very odd cuflom which dicy pra<5life to avert it. When I firft vifited thefe Iflands, during my laft voyage, I obferved that many of the inhabitants had one or both of their little ' fingers cut off; and we could not then receive any fatisfac-, tory account of the reafon of this mutilation*. But we now learned, that this operation is performed when they labour under fome grievous difeafe, and think themfelves in danger of dying. They fuppofe, that the Deity will ac- cept of the little finger, as a fort of facriace efficacious enough to procure the recovery of their health. They cut it off with one of their ftone hatchets. There was fcarcely one in ten of ihem whom we did not find thus mutilated, in one or both hands ; which has a difagreeable effeft, efpe- cially as they fometimes cut fo clofe, that they encroach upon the bone of the hand which joins to the amputated finger f. From the rigid feverity with which fome of thefe mourn- ing and religious ceremonies are executed, one would ex- pert fo find, that they meant thereby to fecure to themfelves felicity beyond the grave; but their principal obje(5t relates to things merely temporal. For they feem to have little conception of future punifhment for faults committed in this life. They believe, however, that they are juftly pu- niflied upon earth ; and, confequently, ufe every method to render their divinities propitious. The Supreme Author of moft things they call Kallafootonga ; who, they fay, is a fe- male, refiding in the fky, and dire<5ling the thunder, wind, rain ; and, in general, all the changes of weather. They 1777' July. * See Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 222. ■\ It may be proper to mention here, on the authority of Captain King, that it4s common for the inferior people to cut off a joint of their little finger, on account of the ficknefs of the Chiefs to whom they belong. 3 F 2 , believe, 404 A VOYAGE TO I777- July. believe, that when flic is angry with them, the piodudion* oF the earth are blafted ; that many things are dcflroycd by lightning; and that they themfclves are alHidled with fick- iiefs and death, as well as their hogs and other animals. When this anger abates, they fuppole that every thing is reftored to its natural order ; and it fliould feem, that they have a great reliance on rhe efficacy of their endeavours to appeafc their ofFendcd divinity. They alfo admit a plurality of deities, though all inferior to Kallafootongai Amongft them, they mention Toofooa-boolootco^ God of the clouds and fog ; Toilet eboot and fome others, refiding in the heavens. The firfl: in rank and power, who has the go- vernment of the fea, and its productions, is called Fnttafaihe, or, as it was fometimes pronounced, Footnfooa ; who, they fay, is a male, and has for his wife Fykava kajeea : and here, as in heaven, there are fevcral inferior potentates, fuch as l^ahaa Jonooa, Tareeava, Mattaba, Evaroo, and others. The fame religious fyftera, however^ does no' extend all over the duller of the Friendly Ifles; for the fuprcme God of Unpaccy for inftance, is called ^/o ^/o ; and other ifles have two or three, of different names. But their notions of tlie power, and other attributes of thefe beings, are fo very abfurd, that they fuppofe they have no farther concern with them after death* They have, however, very proper fentiments about the immateriality and the immortality of the foul. They call it life, the living principle, or, what is more agreeable to their notions of it, an Otooa ; that is, a divinity, or invifible be- ing. They fay, that, immediately upon death, the fouls of their Chiefs feparate from their bodies, and go to a place called 5oo/oo/oo; the Chief, or god, of which, is Goo/^Z)o. This Gooleho feems to be a perfonification of death j for they ufed to fay to us, " Yoii, and the men of Feejee (by this junc- 8 " lion J THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 405 *' tion, meaning to pay a compliment, exprcfilvc of ilvcir *' confeflion of our fuperiority over thcmfelvcs), arc alfo " fubjc^Jt to the power and dominion ot" Gco/cbo.^* His country, the general receptacle of the dead, according to their mythology, was never fcen by any perfon ; and yet, it feems, they know that it Hes to the Weflward of Fcejec ; and that they who are once tranfporicd thither, live for ever; or, to ufe their own exprefllon, are not fubjedl to death again j but feaft upon all the favourite produfts of their own country, with which this everlafting abode is fuppofed to abound. As to the fouls of the lower fort of people, they undergo a fort of tranfmigratiori ; or, as they fay, are eat up by a bird called loalat which walks upon their graves for that purpofe. I think I may venture to afTcrr, that they do not worfhip any thing that is the work of their own hands, or any vi- fible part of the creation. They do not make offerings of hogs, dogs, and fruit, as at Otaheite, unlcfs it be emblem- atically ; for their morais were perfciflly free from every thing of the kind. But that they offer real human facrifices, is, with me, beyond a doubt. Their morals, otfiatookas (for they are called by both names, but moftly by the latter), arc, as at Otaheite, and many other parts of the world, bu- rying-grounds, and places of worfliip; though fome of themfeemedto be only appropriated to the firfl: purpofe; but thefe were fmall, and, in every other rcfpc(5l, inferior to the others. ' Of the nature of their government, wc know no more than the general outline. A fubordination is eftabliflied among them, that refembles the feudal fyftem of our progenitors in Europe. But of its fubdivifions, of the conftituent parts, and; 1777. July. 4"^^ A VOYAGE TO >777' July- and in what manner they are conncinietl, fo a3 to form a body politic, I confcfs myfclf totally ignorant. Some of them told us, that the power of the king is unlimited, and that the life and property of the fubjcJt is at his difpofai. But the few circuniftances that fell under our cbfervation, rather contra- dicftcd than confirmed the idea of a dcfpotic government. ?4arecvvagee, old Tooboo, and Feenou, a(5tcd each like petty ibvereigns, and frequently thwarted the mcafures of the king; of which he often complained. Neither was his court more fplendid than thofe of the two firft, who arc the moft powerful Chiefs in the iflands ; and, next to them, Feenou, Marcewagee's fon, fcemed to Hand highefl in authority. But, however independent on the defpotic power of the king the great men may be, we faw inftances enough to prove, that the lower order of people have no property, nor fafety for their perfons, but at the will of the Chiefs to whom they refpedlively belong. Tongataboo is divided into many diftri(5ls; of above thirty of which we learned the names. Each of thefe has its par- ticular Chief, who decides differences, and diftributes juf- tice within his own diftridt. But we could not form any fatisfacT:ory judgment about the extent of their power in ge- neral, or their modd of proportioning punifliments to crimes. Moll of thefe Chiefs have pofleflions in other iflands, from whence they draw fupplies. At lead, we know this is fo with refpedl: to the king, who, at certain eftablifh- ed times, receives the produd: of his diftant domains at Ton- gataboo ; which is not only the principal place of his refi- dence, but, feemingly, of all ihe people of confequence amongft thefe ifles. Its inhabitants, in common converfation, call it the Land of Chiefs ; while the fubordinate ifles are diftinguifhed by the appellation of Lands of Servants. 6 Thefe THE PACl^FIC OCEAN. 407 Thcfe Chiefs are, by the people, ftylcd not only Lords of the Earth, but of the Sun and Sky } and the king's family aflume the name of Futtafaihc, from the God fo called, who is probably their tutelary patron, and perhaps their common anceftor. The fovercign's peculiar earthly title is, how- ever, fimply Tooee T'on^a. There is a decorum obfcjved in the prefence of their prin- cipal men, and particularly of their king, that is truly ad- mirable. Whenever be fits down, whether it be in an houfc, or without, all the attendants Icat themfclvcs, at the fame lime, in a femicircle before himj leaving always a convenient fpacc between him and them, into which no one attempts to come, unlcfs he has fomc particular bufmcfs. Neither i« any one allowed to pafs, or fit, behind hini, nor even near him, without his order or permillion ; lb that our having been indulged with this privilege, was a fignificant proof of the great refped: that was paid us. When any one wants to fpeak with the king, he advances and fits down before him; delivers what he has to fay in a few words ; and, having received his anfwer, retires again to the circle* But if the king fpeaks to any one, that perfon anfvvers from his fear, unlefs he is to receive fome order; in which cafe he gets up from his place, and fits down before the Chief with his legs acrofs ; which is a poflure to which they are fo much accuf- tomed, that any other mode of fitting^ is difagrceuble to them *. To fpeak to the king ftanditig, would be .iccounted here as a ftriking mark of rudcnefs, as it would be, with us, for one to fit down and put on his hat, when he acUhefi^es himlclf to his, fuperior, and that fuperior on his feet, and uncovered. 1777- July. • This is peculiar to the men; the women always fitting with both legs thrown. . » little on one fiJc. We owe this remark to Captain King. 4o8 A VOYAGE TO 1777- July. It docs nor, indeed, appear, that any of the mofl: civil- ized nations, have ever exceeded this people, in the great order obferved, on all occafions ; in ready compliance with " ihe commands of their Chiefs ; and in the harmony that lubfifts throughout all ranks, and unites them, as if they were all one man, informed with, and directed by, the fame principle. Such a behaviour is remarkably obvious, when- ever it is rcquiiite that their Chiefs fliould harangue any body of them colle(5lcd together, which is frequently done. The mofl profound fdence and attention is obferved during the harangue, even to a much greater degree than is prac- tifed amongft us, on ihe mod interefting and fcrious deli- beraticns of our mofl refpedable afTemblies. And, what- ever might have been the fubjec5t of the fpeech dehvered, we never faw an inflance, when any individual prefenr, Ihewed figns of his being difpleafed, or that indicated the ■lead incHnation to difpute the declared will of a perfon who had a right to command. Nay, fuch is the force of thefe verbal laws, as I may call them, that I ha^^i feen one of their Chicfs^exprefs his being aftoniflied, at a perfon's hav- ing acSted contrary to fucli orders ; though it appeared, that •the poor man could not poffibly have been informed, in time, to have obferved them *. Though fome cfthe more potent Chiefs may vie with the king in point of a(5tual pofleilions, they fall very fliort in rank, and in certain marks of rcfpe^ft, which the collecftivc body have agiecd to pay the monarch. It is a particular privilege annexed to his fovcrcignty, not to be pundlured, * Cantova gives us the fame account of the profound fubmiffioii of the Caroline lilanJeis, to the orJcrs of the Tamole. " lis lecoivent fes ordrcs avLC Ic plus pro- " fund rcfpcd. Scs paroles font autant d'oracles, qu'on revere." ,; Lettrei Edif.antcs k5^ Curii'uf's, Tom. -KW p. ^\%. "-' nor THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 409 line nor circumcifed, as all his fubje<5ls are. Whenever he walks out, every one whom he meets muft fit down till he has pafled. No one is allowed to be over his head ; on the contrary, all muft come under his feet ; for there cannot be a greater outward mark of fubmiflion, than that which is paid to the fovereign, and other great people of thefe iflands, by their inferiors. The method is this ; the perfon who is to pay obeifance, fquats down before the Chief, and bows the head to the fole of his foot ; which, when he fits, is fo placed, that it can be cafily come at ; and, having tapped, or touched it with the under and upper fide of the fingers of both hands, he rifes up, and retires. It fliould feem, that the king cannot rcrufe any one who choofes to pay him this homage, which is called moe moea \ for the common people would frequently take it into their heads to do it when he was walking ; and he was always obliged to flop, and hold up one of his feet behind him, till they had performed the ceremony. This, to a heavy unwieldy man, like Poulaho, muft be attended with fome trouble and pain ; and I have, fometimes, feen him make a run, though very unable, to get out of the way, or to reach a place where he- might conveniently fit down. The hands, afcer this appli- cation of them to the Chief's feet, are, in fome cafes, ren- dered ufelefs for a time ; for, until they be wafhed, they muft not touch any kind of food. This interdiction, in a country where water is fo fcarce, would feem to be attend- ' ed with fome inconvenience ; but they are never at a lofs for a fuccedaneum; and a piece of any juicy plant, which they can cafily procure immediately, being rubbed upon the, 1, this ferves for the purpofe of purification, as well as waftiing them with wacer. When the hands are in this ftate. Vol. I. 3 G they July. •777.. ^ ■•»■ " f A V o y A G E T a " they call it tahoo rema. Taboo, in general, lignifies forbidden'i and rema is their word for hand. When the taSbo is incurred, by paying obeifance to a great perforiage, it is thus eafily waihed off. But, in fome other cafca» it muft neteflarily continue for a certain tirne. We have frequently feen women, who 1 ave been :aboo rema, fed by others. At the expiration of ^h'„ time, the interdi(n:ed perfbn waflies herfelf in one of their baths, which are. dirty holes, for the moft part, of brackifh water. She then waits upon the king, and, after making her obeifance in the ufual way, lays hoYd. of his foot, and applies it to her bread, Ihoulders, and other pa/ts of her body. He then embraces her on each fhoulder j after which Ihe retires, purified from heruncleannefs. I do not know, that it is always neceflary to come to the king for this purpofe y though Omai afllired me it was. If this be fo, it may be onei reafon why he is. For the moft part, travelling from ifland to ifland. I faw this ceremony performedj by him, two ok three times.; and once by I'eenou, to one of his own women; but as Omai; was not then with me, I could not aik the occafion. Tabeo, as I have before obferyed, is a word of an extenfivo fignification. Human facrifices are called /^iz^^j/a ?«^cio; and when any thing is. forbidden to be eat^ or made ufe of, they fay, that it is taho. They, tell us, that, if the king fliould happen to go into a houfe belonging to a fubje(5l, that houfe •would be tahoy and could never more be inhabited by the owner; fo that, wherever he travels, there are particular houfes for his recepcioii. Old Toobou, at this time, pre- lided over the tahoo.;. that i^s, if Omai comprehended the matter rightly, he and his d'^puties infpec^d all the pro- duce of the iiland; taking ca,:e that every man fliould cul- a tivate ■J•^'■' T H E P A C I F LC OCEAN. 41 1 tlvatc and plant his quota ; and ordering what fhould be eat, and what not. By this wife regulation, they efFeftually guard againft a famine; a fufficient quantity of ground is employed in raifing provifions ; and every article, thus raifedj is fecured from unnecelTary wade. ' ; By another prudent regulation, in their Government, they have an officer over the police ; or fomething like it. This department, when we were amOngft them, was admi- niftered by Feenou ; whofe bufinefs, we were told, it was, to puniQi all oiTenders, whether againft the flate, or againft in- dividuals. He was alfo Generaliffimo, and commanded the warriors, when called out upon fervice; but, by all ac- counts, this is very feldom. The king, frequently, took fome pains to inform us of Feenou's office; and, among other things, told us, that if he himfelf fhould become a bad man, Feenou would kill him. What I underftood, by this expref- fion of being a bad man, was, that, if he did not govern according to law, or cuftom, Feenou would be ordered, by the other great men, or by the people at large, to put him to death. There fhould feem to be no doubt, that a Sove- reign, thus liable to be controuled, and punifhed for an abufe of power, cannot be called a defpotic monarch. When we confider the number of iflands that compofe this little ftate, and the diftance at which fome of them lie from the feat of Government, attempts to throw off the yoke, and to acquire independency, it fliould fecm, might be apprehended. But they tell us, that f his never happens. One reafon why they are not thus difturbcd, by domeftic quarrels, may be this : That all the powerful Chiefs, as we have already mentioned, refide at Tongataboo. They alfo fccure the dependence of the other iflands, by the celerity of their operations ; for if, at any lime, a troublefome and 3 G 2 popular •777 41% A VOYAGE TO >777. July. popular man fhould flart up, in any of them, Feenou, or whoever holds his office, is immediately difpatched thither to kill him. By this means, they cruih a rebellion in its very infancy. The orders, or clafles, amongft their Chiefs, or thofe who call themfelves fuch, feemed to be almoil as numerous as amongft us ; but there are few, in comparifon, that are lords of large diftridts of territory ; the reft holding their lands under thofe principal barons, as they may be called. I was, indeed, told, that when a man of property dies, every thing he leaves behind him falls to the king ; but that it is ufual to give it to the eldeft fon of the deceased, with an obligation to make a provifion, out of it, for the reft of the children. It is not the cuftom here, as at Otaheite, for the fon, the moment ne is born, to take from the father the homage and title j but he fucceeds to them, at his deceafe ; fo that their form of government is not only monarchical, biu hereditary. The order of fucceflion to the crown, has not been of late interrupted ; for we know, from a particular circumftance, that the Futtafaihes (Poulaho beings only an addition, to dif- tinguifli the king from the reft of his family) have reigned, in a diredl line, for, at leaft, one hundred and thirty-five years. Upon inquiring, whether any account had been . preferved amongft them, of the arrival of Tufman's (hips, we found, that this hiftory had been handed down to them, from their anceftors, with an accuracy which marks, that oral tradition may fometimes be depended upon. For they defcribed the two fliips, as refembling ours j mentioning the place where they had anchored; their having ftaid but a few days; and their moving from that ftation to Ann a- xnooka. And, by way of informing us how long ago this had T H E P A C I F I C O G E 4 N. 4J3 had happened, they told us the name of the Futtafaihe ■who was then king, and of thofe who had fucceeded, down to Poulaho, who is the fifth fince that period ; the firft being an old man, at the time of the arrival of the fliips. From what has been faid of the prefent king, it would be natural to fuppofe, that he had the higheft rank of any per- fon in the iflands. But, to our great furprize, we found it is not fo ; for Latoolibooloo, the perfon who was pointed out to me as king, when I firft vifited Tongataboo, and three ■women, are, in fome refpedts, fuperior to Poulaho himfelf. On our inquiring, who thefe extraordinary perfonages were, whom they diftinguifli by the name and title of Tammaha*> we were told, that the late king, Poulaho's father, had a fifter of equal rank and elder than himfelf j that (he, by a man who came from the ifland of Feejee, had a fon and two daughters j and that thefe three perfons, as well as their mother, rank above Futtafaihe the king. "We endea- voured, in vain, to trace the reafon of this fingiilar pre- eminence of the Tammabas; for we could learn nothing be- fides this account of their pedigree. The mother, and one of the daughters, called Tooeela-kaipa, live at Vavaoo. Latoolibooloo. the fon, and the other daughter, whofe name is Moungoula-kaipa, refide at Tongataboo. The latter, is the woman who is mentioned to have dined with me on the sift of June. This gave occafion to our difcovering her fu- periority over the king, who would not eat in her prefence, though flie made no fcruple to do fo before him, and re- ceived from him the cuftomary obeifance, by touching her foot. We never had an opportunity of feeing him pay this * The reader need not be reminded that Tamoloa, which fignifies a Chief, in the dialedl of Hamao, and Tammaha, become the fame word, by the change of a fingle Utter, the articulatior of which is not very ftrongly marked. X mark >777' July. 4M A V O Y A G 5 T Q «777 :mark of rfefpcA to Latoolibooloo ; but we have obfetvcd ■S — -* .him leave off eating, and have his vi(5luals put afide, when the latter came into the fame houfe. Latoolibooloo aiTumed the privilege of taking any thing from the people* even if it belonged to the king ; and yet, in the ceremony called Natche, he aflifted only in the fame manner as the other principal men. He was. looked upon, by his countrymen, as a madman ; and many of his adions feemed to confirm this judgment. At Eooa, they fliewed me a good deal of land, faid to belong to him ; and I faw there a fon of his, a child, whom they diftinguiflied by the fame title as his father. The fon of the greateft Prince in Europe could not be more humoured and carefled than this little Tarn- maha was. The language of the Friendly Iflands, has the greateft jiffinitjr imaginable to that of New Zealand, of Wateeoo, and Mangeea ; and, confequentlj, to ihat of Otaheite, and the Society Iflands. There are alfo many of their words the fame with thofe ufed by the natives of Cocos Ifland, as ap- pears from the vocabulary coUeded there by Le Maire and Schouten*. The mode of pronunciation differs, indeed, confiderably, in many inftances, from that both of New Zealand, and Otaheite ; but, ftill, a great number of words * See this vocabulary, at the end of Vol. ii. of Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages. And yet, though Tafmaa's people ufed the words of this vocabulary, in fpeaking to the natives of Tongataboo (his Amfterdam), wc are told, in the accounts of his voyage, tliat they did not underftand one another. A circumftance worth obferving, iis it Ihcws how cautious, we fhould be, upon the fcanty evidence afforded by fuch .franficnt vidts as Tafman's, and, indeed, as thofe of moft of the fubfequent naviga- lors of the Pacific Ocean, to found any argument about the affinity, or want pf af- finity, of the languages of the different iflands. No one, now, will venture to fay, that a Cocos man, and one of Tongataboo, could not underftand each other. Some d; the words of Horn Ifland, another of Schoiitcn's difcoverics, alfo belong to the di{i!c.;t 4>f Tongataboo. Sec DalrympU^ as above. are THE' PACIFIC OCEAN. 4xir are either exaftly ihe fame, or fo little changed, that their eonamon originar may be fatisfa6torily traced. The Ian- ' guage, as' fpoken at the Friendly Iflands, is fufHciently co- pious, for all the ideas of the people ; and we had many proofs of its being eafily adapted to all mufical purpofes, both in fong and in recitative ; befides being harmoniouSif enough in comnion converfation. Its component parts, as' far as ourfcanty acquaintance with it enaMed us to judge, are not nuftierous ; and, in fome of its rules, it agrees with other known languages. As, for inftance, we could eafily difcern the feveral degrees of comparifon, as ufed in the Latin ; but none of the inflexions of nouns and verbs. We were able to colle(5t feveral hundreds of the words ; and, amongft thefe. are terms that exprefs numbers as far as a hundred thoufand } beyond which they never would reckon. It is probable, indeed, that they are not able to go. fiirther ; for, after having got thus far, we observed, that they commonly ufed a word which expreflesan indefinite number. A (hort fpecimen, felecfted from the larger voca- bulary, is here- inferted, with the correfponding words, of the fame fignification, as ufed at Otaheite, on the oppofite (totumn ; which, while it will give, as we may fay, ocular, dcmonilratibn of their being dialedts of the fame language, will, at the fame time, point out the particular letters, by the infertion, omiflion, or alteration of which, the varia- tions of th© two dialeds, from each other, have, been . eiFetJied.' It muft be obferved, however, that our vocabularies, of. this fort, muft necei&rily be liable to great miftakes. The, ideas of thofe, from whom, we were to learn the words, ,rV :i - were. >777'. J"iy. V ' ■ A VOYAGE TO "Were fo different fro.ii ours, that ic was diiEcult to fix them to the objecft of inquiry. Or, if this could be obtained* to learn an unknown tongue, from an inftru(5lor who did not know a fingle word of any language that his fcholar was converfant with, could not promire to produce much. But even, when thefe difficult^'-'' weve furmounted, there ftill re- mained a fruitful fource o* .iil\ v?. I mean, ina:curacy in catching, exa(5tly, the true i end v^ \ word, to 'vhich our ca^s had never been accuftomed, from perfons wiiofe mode of pronunciation was, in general, fo indiftind, that it feldom happened that any two of us, in writing down the fame word, from the fame mouth, made ufe of the fame vowels, in reprefenting it. Nay, we even, very commonly, differed about confonants, the founds of which are leaft liable to am- biguity, Befides all this, we found, by experience, that we had been led into ftrange corruptions of fome of the mod common words, cither from the natives endeavouring to imitate us, qr from our having mifunderftood them. Thus, cheeto was uniyerfally ufcd by us, to cxprefs a thief, though totally different from the real word, in the language of Tongataboo. The miftake arofe from a prior one, into which we had run, when at New Zealand. For fhough the word that fignifies thief there, be abfolutely the fame that belongs to the dialcdl of the Friendly Iflands (being kaeehaa at both places), yet, by fome blunder, we had ufed the word teete, firtt at New Zealand, and, afterward, at Tongataboo, on our arrival there. The natives, endeavouring to imitate us, as nearly as they could, and fo fabricating the word cheetOy this, by a complication of miftakes, was adopted by us as their own. All poffible care has been taken to make the following table as correcft as poffible : Englifh. THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Englifli. Friendly Ijiands, Otabeite, The fun t Elaa, Eraa. Fire, Eafoi, Eahoi. Thunder, Fatoore, Patecrc. Rain, Ooha, Eooa. The windy Matangee, Mataee. Wtirni, Mafanna, Mahanna. The clouds, Ao, Eao. Land, Fonooa, Fenooa. Water, Avy, Evy. Sleep, Mohc, Moe. A man. Tangata, Taata. A ivoman. Vcfaine, Wr leine. A young girl, Taheine, Toonea. A Servant, or perfon e/'^fooa. Toutou, or teoii. mean rank. 5 The daivn, or day-break, Aho» Aou. The hair. Fooroo, Eroroo. The tongue. Elelo, Ercro. The ear. Tareenga, Tareca. The beard. Koomoo, Ooma. Thefea, Tahee, Taec. A boat, or came, Wakka, Evaa. Black, , Oole, Ere. Red, .Goola, Oora, oora. A lance, ovfpear. Tao, Tao. A parent. Motooa, Madooa. What is that ? Kohaeea ? Yahaeea ? To hold f aft. Amou, Mou. To wipe, or clean ^"^JHoro, Horope. thing, Vol. I. 3H Englifli. 41; >777' July. ((i8 A V Y A G E T a 1777. July. Engl ifh • Friendly //lands Otaheite. « , f ■To rife Upi Etoo, Atoo. To cry, or Jljed teat •f. Tangec, Tace. To eatf or cheiVi £ky, « Ey. Yes, Ai. Ai. No, Kaee, Aec. Ton, Koe, Oe. /, Ou, Wou. Ten, Ongofooroo, Ahooroo. Having now concluded nvy remarks on thefe iflands and people, I fhall take my final leave of them, after giving fome account of the aftronomical and nautical obfcrvations that were made during our flay. And, firft, I mull take notice, that the difference of lon- gitude, between Annamooka and Tongataboo, is fome what lefs than was marked in the chart and narrative of my laft voyage. This error might eafily arife, as the longitude of each was then found without any connetflion with the other. But, now, the diftance between them is determined to a degree of precifion, that excludes all pollibility of miftake ; which the following table will illuflrate : The latitude of the obfervatory at Tongataboo, by the mean of fe- veral obfcrvations. The longitude, by the mean of one hundred and thirty-one fets of lu- nar obfcrvations, amounting to above a thoufand obferved dif- tances, between the moon, fun, and ft'*rs, - 21" 8' 19" South. 184 SS 18 Eaft. The \ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 419 18 Eaa. 27 The diiffircnce of longitude, made by ihc time-keeper, between the above obfervatory, and that at Annamooka, - - - 0° iC Wence, the longitude of Annamo- ka is - - - - 185 II By the time- J Greenwich rate, - 186 12 keeper it is, t New Zealand rate, 184 37 o Its latitude - - - 20 15 o N. B. The obfervatory at Tongataboo was near tlic middle of the North fide of the ifland ; and that at Anna- mooka, on its Weft fide ; but the chart will elucidate this. The time-keeper was too flow for mean time at Green- wich, on the firft of July at noon, by 12'' 34" 35*, 2; and her daily rate, at that time, was lofing, on mean time, i",783 per day. This rate will now be ufed for finding the longitude by the time-keeper; and 184' ss' 18", or 12" 19" 4 1 ',2, will be taken as the tru€ longitude of Tongataboo, Eaft from Greenwich. By the mean of feveral obfervations, the South end of the needle was found to dip f Lefooga, one of the Hapace iflands, 36° ss' \ Tongataboo, - - - 39 The variation of the compafs was found to be "Annamooka, onboard, - Anchor off Kotoo, between 1 Annamooka and Hapace, \ Anchor off Lefooga, Tongataboo, on board, Ditto, on fliore, - _ _ 3 H 2 I can ' / // • July- At It. 8" 30' . // At <. 34 8 12 291 10 II 40 9 44 51 10 12 58 Eaft. 420 1777- July. A VOYAGE TO I can afCgn no rcafon why the variation is fo much Icfs ^ at, and near, Annamooka, than at cither of the other two places. I can only fay, that there is no fault in the ob- fcrvations ; and that the variation ought to be more at An- namooka than the above, as it has been found to be fo to the Northward, Southward, Eaftward, and Weftward of it. But difagreemcnts in the variation, greater than this, even in the fame needle, have been often obferved. And I fliould not have taken notice of this inflance, but from a belief that the caufc, whatever it is, exifts in the place, and not in the needles ; for Mr. Bayly found the fame, or rather more difference. The tides are more confiderable at thefc iflands, than at any other of my iifcoveries in this ocean, tha't He within the tropics. At Annamooka it is high water, on the full and change days, nearly at fix o'clock; and the tide rifes and falls there, upon a perpendicular, about fix feet. In the harbour of Tongataboo, it is high water, on the full and change days, at fifty minutes pad fix. The tide rifes and falls, on thofe days, four feet nine inches; and three feet fix inches at the Quadratures. In the channels be- tween the iflands, which lie in this harbour, it flows near tide and half tide ; that is, the flood continues to run up near three hours, after it is high water by the fhore; and the ebb continues to run down, after it is flood by the fliorc. It is only in thefe channels, and in a few other places np.cir the fliores, that the motion of the water or tide is perceivable; fo that I can only guefs at the quarter from which the flood comes. In the road of Annamooka, it fets Weft South Weft, and the ebb the contrary ; but it falls into the harbour of Tongataboo from the North Weft, ' s ■ pafles THE PACIFIC OCEAN. pafTes through tlic two narrow channels, on each fide of ^m- Hoolaiva. where it runs with confidcrablc rapidity, and ^Cl then fpcnds itfclf in the lasoon. The ebb returns the iame way, and runs with rather greater force. The North Weft tide is met, at the entrance of the lagoon, by one *rom the Eaft ; but this, as I have before obferved, was found to be very inconfidcrable. 421 KND OF THE FIRST VOLUME.