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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, 11 est f ilm6 6 partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'imp-^es ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants iliusi .iHt la methods. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 8 1 s s t f t 1 t t 8 C r 1 » \/ '£U>^"\ NOTES, &c. r IVAYIO ""^? The communication with the Upper Provinces being now open, I prepared to leave Montreal, upon Thursday, April 28* Coach liours are early in the States and in Canada. We started before 5 a. m., along a very tolerable road, for La Chme, distant nine miles. A canal, of considerable importance to com- merce, by avoiding some troublesome rapids, has been formed for the like distance. The surfi^cr of the country is flat ; the soil, though light, is apparendy fertile; and the husbandry su- perior to what usually presents itself in this part of the world ; a circumstance which the vicinity of Montreal may m some measure explain. Our coach party proved a pleasant one. We had with us a sort of pwiZic character, in a journalist of the Up- per Province, distinguished for principles, by some called libe- ral, and by others denounced as breathing sedition itself. Mr M was now on his return from Quebec, where he had been catering for the columns of " The Colonial Advocaie;' and, among other items, had received the parliamentary papers upon the Rideau Canal, a precious morceau for critique and ex- position. At La Chine we embarked in a steam- boat upon an expan- sion of the St Lawrence, called Lake St Louis. A capital breakfast was waiting us on b(>ard, and we had a very pleasant run of twenty-three miles to the Cascades, where, on account of rapids in the river, we resumed our land travelling. From the state of the road we were obliged to use waggons, and had a somewhat rough ride of sixteen miles to Coteau de Lac. The • However crude the travelling accommodations may yet be in Canada or the States, it is certain that matters are mending. In 1790, Weld could only find two vehicles in Albany, which were in use to be hired to travellers, and these onlv to be had at a most extravagant rate; while, in order to reach the Upper pi-ovine, he says, " On arriving here (Montreal) our first concern was to provide a large travelling tcnt-camp-equipago, buffalo skins, dried prov|, sions, &c. and, in short, to make every tumal and necessary preparation fo^ ^^- cending the St Lawrence by a batteaux to Kingston." At present," I had only to step into the stage-office and pay for my place. K. iii | w> M W . ! ;] i' i i m-i'^ ' ^ '* ' ^' " ' 52 Mr Fergussm's Notes made dnring a country was settled, and well cultivated. The houses, barns, &c, were commodious; and we passed several handsome churches. The population I understood to be chieflj Roman Catholic. At Coteau we again took possession of a steamer, and started for Cornwall, distant thirty-six miles. The road during our last stage was for the most part alono- the river side, and the noble stream, clear as crystal* with foaming rapids, and romantic islands, clothed in dark pines and other varieties of wood, formed a constant source of delight, not forgetting the brilliant plumage of the crested kingfisher, everywhere abun- dant on its banks. We were now upon Lake St Francis, ano- ther large expanse of the St Lawrence. It seems to me that there is a pleasant variety in this amphibious mode of travelling, and it is so arranged, by suiting our meals to die time spent upon the water, that the utmost comfort and leisure is secured to the traveller. The plan for to-day was to dine on board, and reach Cornwall in the evening, there to remain all night. An old adage has pronounced, however, that there is much between the cup and the lip. We left Coteau with every p -ospect of a comfortable voyage, but ere we had proceeded \v y miles we were caught by one of those squalls which occasionally arise in a moment upon the lakes. Preparations were making in the cabin for dinner, and I was engaged in writing, when my atten- tion was drawn to a confused noise upon deck, while, at the same moment, the vessel gave a heavy lurch, with the sensation of a sudden stop. I was immediately called up by a fellow pas- senger, and, as I ascended, the engineer rushed past me, pale as death, exclaiming, '^ Wc arc lost ! " I did not at the mo- ment comprehend the full extent of our danger, as the alarm arose, not from the squall alone, but from the machinery having become disordered, the pumps choked, and an explosion imme- diately expected. All was in confusion upon deck, the captain and mate alone seeming to retain any self-possession. A poor Canadian voyageur, who had charge of the helm, deserted his post, calling in despair upon Salnic Marie for aid. Fortunate- ly, a steady fellow, with better nerves and less faith in saints, had been placed beside him, and succeeded in keeping the ves- sel's '.Gad to the wind. At one heavy roll, a general movement took place in the steward's pantj >, and nearly a score of bottles Visit to the United States and Canada in 1831. 53 of Madeira, brandy. &Ci witli lots of crockery and crystal were demolished with an astounding crash. Bad as this was, tooj, it was by no means ail. for one of those extensive rafts, con^ stFucted in winter and moved down in spring to Montreal ©r Quebec, had gone to pieces just aheadr. The logs,, now east loose^ were rushing ))ast us in numbers on each side, with a vio. lence whicli must have inevitably staved the vessel if she had been struck. Neither could we contemplate without dismay eleven poor fellows cast away by tht; raft. Two or three of them, distinctly observed at a very short distance, seemed to be in the last struggle ; and great was ou.' rehef by learning (though not until some days afterwards, at Kingston) that they had all, in a most providential manner, by clinging to spars, been carried for several miles in safety to the American side. For ourselves, by some happy change below, the pumps suddenly cleared, steam resumed its office, and, ore we had time to ponder much upon the matter, we were scudding back for Coteau before the gale, which continued to blow for several hours, with unabated violence. On the following morning, when I came upon deck, I found that we had taken our second departure from Coteau about 3 o'clock A. M. The storm was past, the lake tranquil, and the morning beautiful. St Francis had now begun to contract, and the St Lawrence to resume its form. We passed many roman- tic islands of various extent, some entirely covered with wood, others partially cleared. On our right, and close along the wa- ter edge, lay the Glengarry settlement. A mansion-house, bearing the same name, is finely placed upon a commanding point, but at present it is in ruin from the effects of fire. The settlement is extensive, and the local advantages ai i such, that, with ordinary attention and industry, the colonists must pros- per. The wheat had a most luxuriant appearance, but the ge- neral aspect of the fiiinis betokened rather indifferent manage- ment. It may be very fairly objected, however, that an agri- cultural survey from the deck of a steam-boat is little worthy of regard, though a stronger bias certainly prevails with our gallant Celts for the toils of the forest or the chase than for steady labour at the mattock or the plough. Several of the farms wear a different aspect, and bring their careless neigli- bours into more striking contrast. We breakfasted, as usual, E'2 u u 54) Mr Fergussun^s Notes made during a on board, and soon after reached Cornwall, where we were des- tined to pursue our course by land tor Prescot, a distance of fifty miles, and which it was intended we should accomplish i)eforc night. I had travelled in coaches and in waggons, but here a vehicle was in waiting which might be termed a cross-breed. It partook both of the waggon and the coach, and was most incom- modiously distinguished by the absence of a door, the window forming the only mode of effecting our " exits and our entrances/' A short distance from Cornwall we were brought up, in some very heavy road, by the splinter bar giving way ; an accident which, considering that we had to send back to the town for aid, was repaired with marvellous celerity. It soon became evident, however, from this delay, and the general aspect of the road, a heavy clay floated by rain, diat we should not sleep at Prescot ; and it was some consolation to learn that one of the best kept taverns in Canada awaited us about midway. The part of the country in which we now were appears to be a good agricultu- ral district. The soil varies from a heavy clay to a lighter de- scription, in some places inclining to sand, and would seem to be exceedingly well adapted for a sheep stock. In the States of New York, and in Canada, a fine stool of white clover is al- ways ready to start up when the land is tolerably clean, and left to rest. Our route for the most part lay near the river, and the same beautiful scenery (rapids and romantic islands) continued in succession to claim our notice and regard. Farms, pretty well cultivated, enclosed by " rvoryn " fences of split rails, comforta- ble houses, and fine orchards, were everywhere i'requent, and fancy could revel on many a spot where the eye of taste would find little difficulty in laying out a noble domain. Our road was now every mile getting worse, and the wooden bridges across brooks and ravines appeared to my unpractised eye to be al- most impassable. IVIy fellow-travellers, however, (an amiable young lady included) testified neither surprise nor alarm, and, of course, it did not become me to complain. The planks of the bridges were frequently so loose, so rotten, and so crazy, that I am yet at a loss to conjecture how our bulky machine nnc\ thp four hinh-niottled st: eds escaped without faUinsr through A sufficient supply of stone for repairs lay along the road side, Visit to the United States and Canada in 1831. 55 generally loo in heaps, as gathered from the land, while timber for the ijridges was certainly not far to seek. The period of annual repair had not, however, yet come round, and even then no metal would be applied, the road would merely receive a sort of levelling, often, as I was assured, zoith the plough, and the mud holes be in some temporary way liiled up. A great deal might Ije said upon Canadian roads, and it is a subject of regret that, from several causes, there is but little prospect of any inmiediate improvement. Road-making can only be substantially and sadsfactorily executed, by men who have made it a profession. Canada is yet too poor and too thinly settled to afford funds by assessment or by turnpike, and the roads are, for the most part, consigned to the services of the farmers themselves, who turn out with their waggons and teams for a certain number of days in each year. The interest of each individual is thus palpably to consult his own ease, and the road is repaired to very little purpose. In fact it is done with considerable reluctance, because the farmer feels that he is la- bouring rather for the public than for himself. His sleigh in winter, and the advantages of water-carriage in almost every part of the province, render the good or bad condition of the highways to him a matter of comparative indifference. And thus it seems likely enough to continue until the country fills up, and more general intercourse shall be established. It may be asked, why does not the legislature interfere and complete a good road, the first of all improvements .^ In reply, I may on- ly hazard a conjecture, that, in the event of a rupture with our neighbours, a good road along the frontier might be convertible into a serious annoyance, and that for military purposes the Ri- deau Canal is expected to form a communication between the Upper and Lower Province. WheUier it will realize such hopes, or how we are to protect the locks at Kingston and other points of the lines from any serious attempt by the Americans to occupy or destroy them, must be settled by those who are more deeply versed in such matters than I am : but, bad as our road may be, I am wandering rather too far from it. I have mentioned the awkward provision made in our vehicle for ingress and egress, a provision by the way, devised for the purposs of excluding water in passing through rivers and <'5i 3 m I r 56 Mr Fergusson s Notes made during a brooks. Frequent were the requests of our coachman, " Just to get out a bit,'''' calls which, however prudent and reasonable in them?elves, were attended with no slight inconvenience lo inc, as it proved no joke for a man of my caliber to be bolting out and scrambling in at the window every few miles, liesides this harlequinade, our ears were occasionally saluted in more critical circumstances, with a shrill cry of, " Gentlemen, please a Utile to the right or tu the left^^ as the case might require, when our own sensations readily seconding the call, there was an instanta- neous anc amusing scramble to restore the equilibrium. Broken heads on such occasions are by no means rare, though happily we suffered no material inconvenience beyond the slowness of our progress. In one very bad clayhole, with a steep bank, our machine fairly stuck fast, and was all but upset. In vain did our excellent horses strive to clear it. The coachman was obliged to repair to a neighbouring farm for a Learn of oxen, while some of the party provided themselves, sans ceremonle, with stakes from the adjoining fence, to be ready with their aid. In due time the oxen arrived, the body of the carriage was lifted off the frame, and the wheels extricated, the whole affair being transacted without any symptoms of bad humour, or, so far as I heard, a single angry malediction. The operation necessarily requiring some time, Mr F , his sister and I, paid our re- spects to an honest Dutch farmer on the wayside. We found a clean tidy house, a busy household, a most civil welcome, and a hearty lunch of bread and butter, preserved peaches and milk, all superlatively good, nor could we manage to offer any com- pensation beyond thanks to the good dame, and gratifying her benevolence by a trifle of charity for a poor widow in the neigh- bourhood, in whom the family seemed to be much interested. It was evening ere we reached our quarters in a snug com- fortable country inn. The house was not very large, and the party was rather numerous, which for the first time in my Ame- rican travels deprived me of a single room. This event, so fruitful a theme with some tourists, only occurred to me upon one other occasion, and then a handsome apology was sponta- neously offered by the landlord at Buffalo, in a very crowded hotel, for putting a friend and myself into a double-bedded room. Higgledy-piggledy adventures, no doubt, occur in the Visit to the United States and Canada in 1831, 57 «« Just isonablo s lo me, ting out ides this ,> critical c a I'tttlc 'lieu our instauta- Broken happily wness of p bank, In vain man was of oxen, remonle, heir aid. fas lifted air being so far as jcessarily d our re- ^e found ame, and ind milk, any com- fying her le neigh- rested, lug com- and the my Ame- event, so me upon s sponta- crowded c-bedded ir in the back woods, but we should scarce hold it fair, I guess, to pro- duce a hedge alehouse or a Highland clachan as fair samples of what travellers are to expect in journeying through Britain. Many were the friendly admonitions, too, which 1 received be- fore leaving home, anent certain little vampyres, the terror and the torment of weary travellers. Now% whatever may have been the lot of others, I am bound to state, that I only encountered this species of annoyance once, and that was in our own good city of Quebec. The scenery at Campbell's tavern is fine. Deer are frequently seen, and Mr C. described with some interest the capture of two very fine ones lately, "n the act of swimming from an island in front of the house. — The following morninjj proved rainy until after breakfast, when it cleared, and we pro- ceeded cheerily on our route. We were now in the Matilda district, which I consider a favourable situation for settlers, who afj able and inclined to purcliase farms already made. The soil appears in general of a light description, probably well suit- ed for sheep. We had the river for the most part in view, with wooded islands of infinite beauty. In some places the clearing of the land has been effected by fire, and when a forest of tall blackened masts occasionally presented themselves in a bay or behind a headland, bearing a very tolerable resemblance to a crowded dock, the mind's eye was led to anticipate the period when such may be actually realized in the commerce of this noble stream. Nothing particular occurred in our day's ride. The lumbering article of yesterday was exchanged for two light waggons, tlie road was better, and we reached Pres- cot in good time for dinner. This is a town of some size, but does not at present appear to be in a very flourishing condition. Directly opposite in locality, and I suspect also in prosperity, is Ogdensburgh, in the State of New York, to which we resolved upon a trip after dinner, as the steam -boat which was to convey us to Kingston had not yet arrived. We found a convenient steam-boat at the ferry, which in a few minutes landed us in the States. Ogdensburgh was formerly called Oswegatchie, the name of a powerful stream falling into the St Lawrence, and from the capital and taste of Mr Parish, and other proprietors, is fast emerging from a village to become a bustling town. Af- ter inspecting some extensive saw-mills, we returned to Pre,scotj ii' I 68 Mr FergussmCs Notes made during a and'found the ** Sir James Kempt" nearly icady to start for Kingston. A very larjre steamer, the property of John Hamil- ton, Esq. was lately launched here, and now lay in the river nearly equipped, Lat. asw.is the hour, Mr H. insisted upon our paying her u visit, and most kindly accompanied ut<. The affair was not altogether pleasant, as, ijeforc arrangements were made, it had hecome (|ulto dark, and we rcquircl the aid o\' a ricketty boat to reach the vessel, which l)eing accomplished, we had to scramble up and down her lofty side by the light of a lanthorn, and only a rope lo trust to. Her acconunodations were certainly very superb and convenient, Wc passed Morris- town on the American, and Brockville on the Canada, shore, during the night, and being aware of the fine scenery before us, our captain kindly engaged to call me before entering on the labyrinth of the Tiiousand Islands. Sunday, Jfo?/ 1.— About four this morning I was summoned on deck, and found the vessel moored to a natural wharf, where we had been taking in a supply of fuel A set of free-and-easy woodcutters find a livelihood here, by clearing Government land of its timber, without troubling the authorities to collect value or rents, it consists of pine, and is not, I believe, of much in- trinsic value. A man may prepare two cords a-day, but it is severe work, and the price, which is one dollar per cord, will do little more than compensate maintenance and labour. Our ves- sel takes about 200C cords per annum. The morning was worthy of May-day, and I watched the gradual approach of sunrise with much interest. The river, smooth as a mirror, re- flected minutely on its surface every tree and every rock. We soon got involved among the islands, the river expanding to a lake, and deriving its name from their number. It is a scene quite unique. On every side you observe numberless channels and wooded islands of all sizes and forms. Some are of consi- derable extent, while others will scarce admit of footing to the woodman, who seeks to rob them of their solitary pine. Many a flock of water-fowl did our paddle scare from their quiet haunts, and occasionally a majestic eagle was to be seen soaring aloft. The helmsman recounted to me a sporting feat of some novelty, of which this spot was the scene. It occurred last fall, and ended in the capture of a fine buck, which was observed were nt' a Visit to the United States and Canada in 1831. 59 swimming among tlu* islands, and after many a double was fairlv run down bv tbe steamer, encumbered for a time by four heavy Duriiani boats towin«i at her >tcrii We stopped for a time ai Gi'.ananoquc. when' a fine wili-stream pours ir.to the St Lawrence, and has led to a thriving establishment ot extensive flour-mills, a cooperage, ficc, with a well cultivated farm, the property (if Mr Macdonnell. Kingston, ilu' largest and \w.M considerable Town in Upper Canada, though not tiie scat of oovenmient. opens with a tine effect as yon pass the Fori and enter the Bay. It is a rare and curious sight to look upon a fleet of large ships of war, laid up in ordinary in a fresh-water lake so remote from the ocean. It will be long, I irust, ere the Temple of Janus shall again be opened ; but should Ontario and Erie be yet destined to bear the armed navy of Britain, it is to be hoped that her rulers may discover the waters to be fresh. To send out at an enormous ex- pense from an English dock-yard the complete frame-woik of a frigate was bad enough, but to add a i-egular set of water casks, which a bucket was ready to supersede, may well be termed the acme of improvidence and waste. The town of Kingston is well laid out, with some handsome churches, ^&c. and many excellent private mansions, substan- tially built of stone. Our quarters in Meyers' Hotel were ex- tremely comfortable, and we reached town in time to attend service in die Episcopal Church. It was pleasing again to listen to the peal of the organ, and the solemn liturgy of our church, in a land yet but half emerged from a savage state, and we had a most excellent sermon from Mr C. the worthy and exemplary clergyman of the place. Kingston is a place of trade, for which it is well situated, and appears to be in a prosperous state. It is also a military and naval station. The popula- tion, I believe, is above three thousands souls. Having an op- portunity at this place of visiting a portion of the Rideau Canal, by a ride of a lew miles into the forest, I procured horses for a young fellow traveller and myself from our obliging host, and in a delightful afternoon, with a genuine American for a guide, we started on our excursion. We had a pleasant scamper through the woods, and in due time reached the canal. Some very fine locks have been constructed here, of solid masonry and 'llf B 60 Mr Fergussmi's Notes made during a beautiful workmanship, but executed, I should think, with no very rigid considerations of economy or expense. An extensive embankment has been formed, to deepen a shallow lake, and the canal, from this point, will very soon be opened into Kingston Bay. The log-huts, &c. arc government property, stamped with the broad arrow, and the inmates, I regretted to observe, stamped also with the sickly hue of an aguish district. We crossed the line of the canal, and returned to town by the soutli side of the bay. A little trait of American character, not per- haps unworthy of record, occurred as we jogged along. When passing a farm-yard, the ears of oiu- guide were, for the first time in his life, saluted by the screech of a peacock. Listening with little patience to my description of the bird, he galloped oft' to find him, poking about in every description. The evening was fast closing in, and as we could not proceed without him, I sounded a loud note of recal. It was sounded, however, in vain ; nothing would do, until he finally succeeded in finding the object of his search perched in full glory or a rail. Some high-minded folks will perhaps say, " Here was impertinence with a vengeance !" What ? a fellow engaged for a time as your servant, absolutely presume to leave you in the lurch. Even so, and yet I must plead to be more amused than provoked by the resolute determination of Jonathan to satisfy a reasonable curio- sity, though at the hazard of giving some offence to a temporary employer. We recrossed the river by a wooden bridge, built by sub- scription, and the pontage upon which yields a good return ; it is about one-third of a mile in extent. The fort, the navy-yard, &c. are situated upon a bold headland commanding the harbour. In a paddock adjoining the residence of the commodore, I ob- served a small herd of the native deer. They were in low con- dition, but appeared near akin to the red deer of S utland. Willingly could I have lingered for some time in the neighbour- hood of Kingston, but time was piessing, and only admitted of a steamboat excursion on Quente Bay. I started in the Sir James Kempt on the following morning, and passed several fine situations for villas in the vicinity of the town and upon the banks of the lake. Mr Ilaggerman, solicitor-general of Upper Canada, possesses one of great l)cauty, with the grounds sloping visit to the United States and Canada in 1831. 61 5i down to the water edge. We had as usual a numerous cabin part}', and I met with the utmost kindness and anxiety to afford me information. The Bay of Quente is a sound, running up for eighty or ninety miles to tlie mouth of the River Trent, and separated from Ontario by an extensive and fine peninsula, call- ed Prince Edward's Island. Missourga Point is very beautiful, in many features resembling the park scenery of England. The object of our voyage, besides the conveyance of passengers, seemed mainly directed to the collection of flour at various vil- lages and wharfs, and with which our deck became ultimately loaded to its utmost capacity of stowage. Sometimes these were received from stores, but frequently most comfortable looking personages attended our arrival with waggon loads from their farms, periods of call having been previously arranged. During a part of the first night we lay at the mouth of the Trent, and spent the following day cruizing from place to place. It was amusing each morning at breakfast to observe the change of faces, which had occurred during the night. On Tuesday evenin^r we were detained at Bath by a smart thunder-storm, with heavy rain ; and, as if a disturbance in the elements was not enough, we were favoured with a glorious row between a loving couple on deck. Loud was the din of war, but the shrill pipe of the lady prevailed, and the discomfited hero resigned the field, protesting that he could no longer endure her temper, and now bade her adieu for ever. Little did he reckon upon having very nearly realized this doughty bravado. The night was dark, and a hasty stride immersed him in the lake, from whence he was dr.igged, sufficiently cooled, by the men engaged in loading the boat, and restored to his cava sposa, amidst the most appropriate exclamations of penitence on her part for hav- ing, as she supposed, driven him to the dreadful act. The coun- try along the Bay of Quente is altogether pleasing, the land for the most part good, and the locality favourable for agiicultural or mercantile settlers. Various small towns are here advancing to importance, and altogether it is a district which deserves the attention of emigrants who are not prepared to plant themselves altogether in the bush, and who have a moderate capital where- with to make a purchase of land in some measure reclaimed. Early on Wednesday morning, May 4th, we reached Kings- lli-j 62 Mr Fergussoris Notes made during a ton, and, after breakfast, I re-embarked in the Alciope, a steam- er which plies from hence to Queenston, on the Niagara river. Besides ordinary passengers, we had with us a detachment of the 79th Highlanders, with families and baggage, on route for Amherstburgh, a small fort at the west end of Lake Erie. They were a healthy, joyous set, indulging in many a rough practical joke with each other, but kind, affectionate, and gentle to the women and children. The officers were pleasant, gen- tlemanly men, and great was the surprise of Captain R , who commanded the party, when he discovered my name upon my luggage, he being a native of Perth, although personally unknown to each other. His wife and children were with him, and I felt a pleasure in being thus enabled to carry good ac- counts of them to Scotland. Canada, I was told, is sadly sub- versive of discipline, and a run to the States is easily effected, when officers prove what the soldiers please to consider too strict. Two grenadiers from the 79th had disappeared that very morn- ing. Deserters, however, frequently return, and Sir John Col- borne has adopted, in ordinary cases, lenient measures, which seemed to be generally approved. We were now fairly at sea, upon fresh water, with a head wind, a heavy swell, and many passengers discomposed. Our course lay about twenty miles from land on either side. On- tario is about 180 miles in length, and 100 fathoms in depth The water is nerfectly pellucid, while Erie is turbid. The lat- ter, being comparatively shallow (about forty fathoms)^ pro- bably occasions the difference. Our cabin table and our cabin party were sumptuous and agreeable, as I have always found them. On Thursday morning I rose early, and enjoyed from our upper deck a splendid sunrise. It united, as it were, all die magnificence of that sublime object, as witnessed both ai sea and on shore. About twelve this forenoon, when perambulating the deck, a large column of smoke, rising in clouds, and far to the south-west, attracted my attention. It was Niagara, then distant above twenty-five miles, as the crow flies. The sky was of a fine clear, yellowish-red, well adapted to increase the effect ; and I watched it with feeliiigs of interest becoming hourly more intense as I approached the scene of so many wonders. We were oft' the mouth of the Niagara about three o'clock, and met 11 Vls'it to the United States and Canada in 1831. G3 the steamboat for York coming out, to which several of our parly transferred themselves. The river was full of shoal-ice, and our progress necessarily slow. Notwithstanding many pre- cautions, we received some heavy thumps, and lost part of our paddle-sheathing. The river is here about a quarter of a mile in width, and forms the boundary with the States. Upon the south or south-west bank stands the old French fort, garrisoned by the Americans ; and exactly vis a vis is Fort George, occupied by British troops. Adjoining to it is the small town of Newark, frequently and most inconveniently call- ed likewise Niagara. It is well placed for trade, but did not seem to be much alive. There are some morasses in the vici- nity, said to render it at times rather unhealthy ; but, as it stands upon an extensive platform, I should imagine this to be rare, or, at all events, by judicious drainage, not difficult to cor- rect. I should have mentioned that Mr H , whose acquaintance I had made in Montreal, is owner of the Alciope, and was him- self along with us. My letters of introduction for Newark and Queenston were thus rendered nugaiory, as my hospitable friend would allow no door in Queenston to open for me but his own. There we arrived early in the evening, and there I had the un- speakable pleasure of finding a large packet from home, with accounts just as comfortable, in all respects, as I could desire. Queenston is a small town, overhanging the river, and close at tiie foot of that remarkable ridge which intersects the country, and is by many geologists conjectured to have, at some remote period, formed the margin of Lake Ontario. Directly opposite to Queenston is Lewiston, a thriving town in the state of New York. The whole frontier line from Ontario to Erie formed the scene of bloody strife h;rjng the last war. A severe action was fought on Queenston heights on the 13th of October 1812, and a tree in a small field, on the west side of the village, marks the spot where General Brock fell when gallantly leading on the British troops to a charge. He was greatly respected by both armies, and deeply lamented by his own, A stately column has been erected to his memory, with a spiral staircase of 120 steps, recompensing the labour of ascent with an extensive and most 64 Mr Fergussons Notes made during a beautiful prospect. The battle of Queenston was a day of varied success, but finally terminated in the repulse of the Americans. The animated and bloodj' contest transacting on the Canada shore was alleged to have operated somewhat unfavourably on the nerves of the American reserve, who, at all events, by re- fusins in the afternoon to cross the river, consummated the dis- comfiture of their gallant friends. The banks of the river are precipitous, and probably 300 feet in height, thickly wooded ; and here terminates the wild ravine, which commences seven miles above it, at the Falls. If certain geological theories are right, this was once actually the spot where Niagara thundered ; and the Falls are supposed to have been for ages gradually re- cedino-. The nature of the substrata and some well ascertained facts bear curiously upon this speculation. The constant fric- tion of such a mass of water, as displayed in the foaming rapids above the cataract, with the effective agency of winter frosts, certainly conveyed to my mind a strong impression that the theory might be sound. The river runs here with a powerful current, an'^ s about half a mile in width. It is hardy possible to imagine a more appalling spectacle than the American troops must have presented when driven in wild confusion down these banks. My friend H , from a knowledge of their language, was attached to the Indian brigade. He placed me, with a gid- dy head, upon the spot where his unerring riflemen maintained a deadly fire upon the hapless foe scrambling through the thicket of cedars, or attempting to swim the river, in which many a poor fellow perished. Innumerable are the anecdotes, tragic and comic, which were detailed regarding this frontier war. The employment of our red allies was a subject of much vituperation against the British. The history of Colonel D— ►, a Canadian, who commanded the Indians, was fruitful in adventure and anecdote. He was perfectly master of the Indian language and customs, had lived much among them, and, to sum up all perfection, had chosen a Squaw for his wife. In every sport and in every danger he was one of themselves ; and, where they place their confidence and affection, both are ahke unbounded. It happened to him once, in the western country, when engaged in the fur trade, that his party, exhausted with fatigue, resisted all his persuasions to pro- Visii to the United States and Canada in 1831. 65 ceed, and insisted upon erecting a wig^vam for the night at a certain pass, known to be a haunt of the Indians when in wait to phinder the traders. The men were soon asleep, but D , with an anxious -ye, lay watching the dying embers ; and, while there yet remained sufficient light to distinguish objects, he perceived the dreaded visitors crawling like huge snakes into the hut. It was vain to think of resistance ; he feigned to be asleep, almost afraid to breathe, and only hoping that the re- moval of their booty might satisfy the Indians, if no intcrrup- tion should occur. At this anxious moment his ears were greet- ed by a welcome whisper from the foremost, addressed to those behind, " It is Redhead," the name by which D was known in the woods. The simple announcement acted like a charm, and the work of blood was arrested ; but to show perhaps (like David of old) how entirely they had the party in their power, the leader moved quietly round, and passed his hand along each man's throat, before making his exit. At another time, when under the most distressing privations from want of food, D— encountered a party of Indians, in nearly as bad a plight as himself. Famine stared him in the face, and he could scarcely look for aid from those who had but a scanty morsel for thenl- eelves. Relying, however, upon his knowledge of Indian feel- ings, he thus, in simple language, addressed the chief : " Fa- ther, lam hungry r « Son (says tlie old man, offering at once their h'tlle stock), tahe, eat,"* And these are men whom we term savage! May God grant that they suffer no abasement m the boasted refinement.* of civilized life ! Friday, May 6.— After breakfast I took leave of my friend, and walked on for the Falls, leaving the stage, in which I had se- cured a place, lo follow. The day was delightful, and as I ascended the steep hill from Queenston, I overtook a soldier of the 79th in charge of the baggage waggons, leaning on his mus. kel, and wrapt in admiration of the surrounding scenery, «* JCs mair like Scotland^ Sir, than ony thing fve seen sin'' I left it,^ was the poor fellow's remark, and truly it was far from misap- plied, making due allowance for difference of scale. The coun- try from Queenston to the Falls is well settled, and finely diver- sified by farms, orchards and open forest. The soil is perhaps light, but in some places of a stronger description, and all ap- II ill ■ I 66 Mr Fergussoiis Notes made during a parently fertile desirable land. A very beautiful property, ori- ginally laid out by the ill-fated Duke of Richmond, and subse- quently possessed by Sir Peregrine Maitland, adjoins the road. The house, which is in the cottage style, of wood, seems large and commodious. This estate is in a very favourable situation, and h<-xs been lately sold for L. 2000 ; it contains about 450 acres oi good useful land. The distance from Queenston to Niagara is about seven miles, and I sauntered on the whole way, the coach not overtaking me. About four miles from the Falls, the sound came upon my ear like the murmur of Old Ocean on a rugged strand. In certain states of the atmosphere and wind this is heard at a much greater distance. The noise gradually increased, and by-and-by the spray was seen rising in columns above the trees. A splendid and extensive establish- ment was soon after recognised as Forsyth's hotel, and, under feelings far more intense than common curiosity, I hurried for- ward to a point, where Niagara in all its glory came in view. From the increasing facility of migrating now-a-days even from one end of the world to another, Niagara has lost somewhat of that mysterious halo with which it was wont to be enveloped ; but still it must ever be Niagara. The most eloquent des- criptions, I should think, must prove inadequate to convey a just conception of the scene. Nor can the pencil, I imagine, ever do it justice. A cataract may be said, as regards the painter's art, to differ from all other objects in nature. The human face and figure, the rich and varied landscape, the animal and vege- table world, may with sufficient propriety be delineated at rest^ but quiescence forms no feature here. The ceaseless roar, the spray mounting like clouds of smoke from the giant limekiln, and the enormous sheet of water which rolls into the abyss, can only be felt and understood by repeated visits to the scene. My attention was for a time distracted by the rapids which are extremely interesting, and with any other neighbour than the Falls would excite the highest admiration and wonder. After some time spent in contemplation, I proceeded to my friends, where a kind and comfortable home awaited me. Mr C- pos- sesses a residence, which is certainly one of the most romantic domiciles in the world. The house stands on a small lawn upon a point overhanging the rapids, and about half a mile 1 can Visit to the United States and Canada in 1831. 67 above the Horse-Shoe Fall. The garden is behind, washed by a fine branch of the river, which encircles a wild and thickly wooded island, and on every side new and interesting prospects appear. The river is a mile across, and of great depth, and, for the same distance above the Falls, is one sheet of foam. We sauntered down in the evening to the river side, and the rapids lost nothing by a closer inspection. My bedroom looked di- rectly upon them ; I could watch the smoke of the Fall, as I lay on my pillow ; and with the wild roar of the cataract sounding in my ears, I closed my first day at Niagara. The following morring proved fine, and we devoted the forenoon, of course, to the Falls. Lake Erie had just broken up, and the icebergs came crushing down the rapids, in a way highly interesting. My friends being quite at home in all the mazes of the river side, conducted me by a vvild and rugged route to the edge of the Table-rock, when, upon emerging from a tangled brake, I beheld the Horse-shoe or great British Fall, pouring down its volume of ice and water, at the distance of a few feet from where we stood. The rock felt to me as though it vibrated, and a large mass did in fact lately give way, soon after a party had retired from the precarious stance. It is limestone, full of ugly fis- sures and rents. A narrow wooden stair conducts adventurous travellers to the bottom of the Fall, where a sort of entrance is generally effected to a short distance under the sheet, and for which performance a certificate in due form is served out. The stair was at this time under repair, and the accumulation of ice below perfectly reconciled me to waive pretensions to such slippery honours. At some distance below the Fall, and op- posite lo the American staircase, there is a fjrry, to which a safe and most romantic carriage-road has been lately formed, out of the solid rock, at no small labour and expense. When a similar accommodation shall have been provided upon the American side, it is expected to prove a lucrative concern, but at the present foot-passengers only can be landed in the States. The little skiff had just put off, with a party from the Canada shores, and got involved in streams of ice, in a way somewhat hazardous, and which rendered it impossible for the boati.ian to return. The scene from the Ferry is indeed magnificent, the Horse-shoe* the American Fall, and Goat Island being all in F I-: I II lljir I i\n !j 68 Mr Fergussmi's Notes made during a view, with the great pool or basin eddying in fearful and end- less turmoil. In the evening I walked up the river side to- wards the village of Chippeway, to visit a natural curiosity up- on Mr C.'s estate. A spring surcharged with sulphuretted hydrogen gas rises within a few paces of the river. A small build- ing is erected over it, and when a candle is applied to a tube in a barrel, which encloses the spring, a brilUant and powerful light is evolved. Close adjoining are the remains of extensive mills burnt by the Americans during last war. The water privilege is great, and machinery to any extent might be kept in play. Canada, however, for many a year to come, should have no- thing to do with manufacturing establishments. Her resources, if duly fostered, should be employed in the production of food for the artisans of Britain, and enabling them to maintain their ground in the foreign market. Neither should our agricultu- rists at home be startled at such a prospect, as, happen what may, our landed interest can never prosper while our manu. facturing interests decay. Should some thousand spinning, jennies, however, at a future day commence operations, behold a gasometer both economical and effective here provided. Springs of this description are by no means rare in the Canadas and States. Some have been discovered near Canandaigua of great power, and the proprietor of the farm, annoyed by hosts of visitors, and in a prudent spirit of turning all to account, has opened his house as a tavern for the mutual benefit of the pub- lic and himself. The suction occasioned by the rapidity and depth of the stream extends far above the Falls, and renders it necessary to use the utmost caution in navigating canoes or boats. A ser- vant of Mr C. was lost some time ago, in a nocturnal expedition apross the river, and Mr C. detailed to me an adventure of his own, which, though somewhat ludicrous^ was certainly attended with hazard. He had gone out a fishing with a young man in his employment, lately arrived in the country, and finding the boat rather more in the vortex than was pleasant, he pulled for shore, in doing which his companion, by some awkwardness, let slip his oar, and in making an effort under considerable men- tal agitation to recover it, the pale and bloated visage of a drowned man presented itself close to the boat, dissipating Visit to the United States and Canada in 1831. 69 what little self-possession the poor lad retained. Mr C, however, by an effort, soon got the boat out of the fatal current, and put all to rights. Upon Monday, May 9, I left my kind friends for the pur- pose of visiting York, and the country to the west of it. The morning was cold, and the wind a sharp north-wester, accom- panied by showers of snow. As it was not a stage-day for Newark, I ordered an e.rtra, which is the same thing with tak- ing a post-chaise. It happened that old Forsyth, the landlord of the Pavilion, had occasion to go down also, and when I en- tered my ea^tra, I found him very snugly ensconsed in a corner. To a man from the old cmntry, this was certainly something new ; but the old gentleman, while he offered an apology, did not seem to be much discomposed, and I rather think that the matter was not considered of much moment. Within a week I was myself led to do the same thing, through the prevailing practice of using the same coaches for public and private travel- lers, and upon that occasion the party received both myself and my explanation with the utmost good humour, frankness, and ease. My travelling companion is proprietor of the large hotel at the Falls, mentioned by every tourist, and is a personage suf- ficiently shrewd and well informed. He told me that his father had been one of the original settlers in the district, and had mi- grated from the Genesee country. The change within a few years seems to be nearly marvellous. Often, he said, has he been racoon-hunting where are now to be seen the busy town of Rochester, with farms and villages innumerable, when he was well aware that no human being could be within a hun- dred miles of him, save perhaps some wandering Indian. Mr- F. may be said to have satisfactorily fulfilled one duty of a co- ionist by no means unimportant. When I inquired of him, whether his family was nu ous, ** Why,^ says he, « Sir, I don't know what you call numerous, tve raided nineteen, ten by my first wife, and nine by my second.** Wc passed many ex- cellsnt farms and beautiful orchards in this stage of sixteen miles. The day continued stormy, and ultimately the gale be. came so violent, that the steamer for York could not venture out, A lull was looked for towards evening, and I had no. i\\nm for it but to saunter iibout the neighl>ourhQQd until the ^ f2 i ! 70 Mr Fcrgussm's Notes made during a dinner hour at Kreysler^s hotel. In connection with the A me- rican Fort, Newark became some years ago tlie scene of a tragi- cal mystery, which has kindled an extraordinary flame in every State of the Union. We are accustomed in Britain to consideV Free Masonry as a mere excuse for convivial relaxation ; but it has of late assumed a very different aspect here, and although no doubt the approaching period of eleccing the chief magistrate tends to give it peculiar vigour, still it must be reckoned the pivot on which all questions of a public nature at present turn. The public journals sufficiently evince the excitemenf of the public mind, and that baneful consequences have followed no man can deny, who is made acquainted with the fate of Captain Mor- gan. This unhappy man having become obnoxious to the brethren, because he cither had or was believed to have promulgated the secrets of the craft, a plan was concocted to punish his treason, and make him a signal example. Whether the scheme ori^n. nally contemplated his death, or only his removal from America, does not exactly appear, but it is beyond a doubt, that he was inveigled under various pretexts to Niagara, that he has never been seen nor heard of since September 1826, and that, in fact, there is every reason to believe when Ontario shall give up its dead, that poor Morgan will rise from its depths, in judgment against his murderers. It is a melancholy tale, and fraught with matters of vital importance to the Americans. At this hour it stands on record, that after sundry attempts to bring the cul- prits to justice, the arm of the law has been pakied, and r:o jury has been found to convict, upon evidence too, which mio-ht have been deemed reasonably conclusive, while one most emi- nent lawyer in the State of New York, has denounced;- the jurors for " utterly disregarding their duty and their oath,^' adding that the " very foundation of justice is polluted." Let the nation look to it ere the hour goes by when a remedy may be safely applied to so frightful an evil. Among other good things upon our dinner-table, we were regaled with the celebrated white fisl;, a delicacy which, as Charlevoix has long since remarked, '^ nothing of the fish kind can excel." It is peculiar, I believe, to the North American lakes and rivers, .'ind, so far as I know, has not been described by ichthyological writers. Some naturalists consider it to be a i V'tisit to the United States and Canada in 1831. 71 nondescript species of Sulmo. The flesh is white, and resem- bles the most gelatinous part of the turbot, but considerably richer. The fish is taken with hook, and hne, frequently at a hole in the ice, being then in highest perfection, and runs from three to eight pounds weight. There is a coating of fat along the back, little inferior in flavour to the richest butter. About nine o''clock I was summoned on board, and soon after took possession of a sofa for the night. We took our departure about twelve, and at sunrise next morning were just approach- ing the northern shore. York is the seat of government in the upper province, and a large peninsula forms a spacious and safe harbour, the barracks, public buildings, &c. making a very re- spectable appearance as you enter the bay. After breakfast at the hotel, where an Irish gentleman and I got a comfortable sitting-room, with our bed-rooms adjoining, I proceeded to de- liver letters, and waited upon Sir John Colborne, governor of the upper province. I found the government-house, selon le regie, at the west end of the capital. It is a commodious irre- gular mansion, of wood, with garden, shrubberies, &c. The public apartments are sufficiently spacious and handsome, and nothing could exceed the affable and easy demeanour of Sir John. It is not for a bird of passage like myself to offer an opinion upon matters of state, but I am greatly deceived if Sir John is not fraught with the utmost zeal to promote the prospe- rity of the province, and possessed of sound and clear views, as regards its resources and wants. He favoured me with a pretty long interview, and then gave me a note to Mr Robinson, who is at the head of the government land-office, and from whom I readily received ev^ery attention and information in his power. My next visit was to the office of the Canada Company, where I found the commissioners communicati' 3 and truly obliging. I)r D , who acts as warden of the forests, has spent much time in their depths, and gives the ser'ia m'urtajocis in the hap- piest style, when recounting the progress and adventures of set- tlers in the back woods. The Canada Company, I should think, is calculated to forward the general interests of the colo- ny, although there are certainly those who think otherwise, and if it shall continue to be prudently administered, will in time yield handsome returns. The exertions made to facilitate the 72 Mr FergussQii's Notes made during a transport and settlement of emigrants, and the liberal terms held out, will certainly secure the confidence and good will of intend- ing settlers. I dined in the evening at the government-house. The party was rather numerous, and quite as agreeable as such affairs commonly prove. Sir John introduced me to Dr B , as a gentleman particularly able to give me information upon the state of the province ; a character which he fully redeemed, both then, and during a long visit with which he honoured me on the following morning. I may mention by the way, regard- ing this gentleman (and I certainly do so from no disrespect to V him, but as illustrating good sense and liberal feelings in the governor), that, while he was marked by no exclusion from the hospitality and private esteem of Sir John, he was yet remarked as frequently opposed to government measures ; and I consider it a trait of temper and tact upon the one hand, and of discretion and independence upon the other, well deserving of regard. Were such instances more frequent, fewer changes in govern- ments would be required, and the public service would probably be essentially promoted. The government of Upper Canada is administered by a Heutenant-governor, a legislative i;.>biic'), of not less than sev^n members, appointed by manda-i " • m 94 Mr FergussoJi's Notes made dur'nig a the rear with my sac-de-nuit, &c. Having seen my luggage safely deposited in the boat, a doubt arose how to deal with my kind friend, nor could I divest myself of ak ./r^ coimtry feeling, that a gratuity was fairly earned and expectoa. I at once dis- covered, however, that I was in the wrong box. It was an act of pure disinterested kindness to a stranger, whom he saw in a difficulty, and I record it with the greater pleasure, because, from other occurrences of a like nature, I feci warranted, in my own experience at least, to deny the rude and selfish habits ascribed to the Americans, and to testify their obliging and ac- commodating disposition. A short drive of two miles brr)ught us to Buffalo, where we found capital quarters with Mr Her- riman at the Eagle. The town was particularly crowded at this season, always a busy one, and increased to-day from the for- mation of a favourite new bank. The Eagle had its full com- plement of guests, and the landlord, without any remarks from me, most courteously apologized for not having a single-bedded room to offer me. This matter, which should not be of great moment to a traveller, in a case of necessity, was still less so at present to me, as, in place of a stranger, I had my friend Dr D to occupy the chamber along with me. And now when about to leave Canada, I am anxious to offer a few remarks of a miscellaneous nature, which have either been omitted, or which would have been misplaced, in the previous pages. Few things will puzzle an emigrant more than the choice of a situation ; and the contradictory statements which selfish motives will present to him, requires his utmost prudence and caution to sift. In general, he ought to be in no hurry. If he can afford to board with a respectable family for some months, I am confident that his time and money will be well repaid, by the knowledge and experience which may be thus acquired. Besides the parts of the country I have touched upon, there are many others at least equally suitable. The Sandwich, Amherst, and Malder districts are very desirable, and being far west, few emigrating comparatively think of visit- ing them. The climate is equal to any part of the province. There is a daily line of steamers from Buffalo to Detroit River, on which they lie ; and my Queeiisloii friend Mr H. writes me that he is to launch a steamer this season, to run from Chippe- ill visit to the United States and Canada in 1831. 95 way to Sandwich. The style of farming is bad, the settlers being mostly descended from French Canadians, and retaining all their unprofitable habits. The price asked for uncleared land is about 15s. or 20s. per aire ; and some of the old farms may be had reasonable enough. The salubrity or unwholesome nature of a climate is a matter of high importance to the inhabitants, and still more so to those who encounter it as strangers. Upper Canada may safely be pronounced a healthy climate. It is certainly subjected to .Treater extremes of heat and cold than the maritime country of Britain, but, with ordinary attention, an equal portion of health and of longevity may be enjoyed in Canada as in any part of the Globe.^ Winter in the Lower Province is always hmger, and frequently more severe than in the Upper, and in this consists any difference between them. But have we not heard of fever and ague in every part of them both ? True— aguish attacks prevail here and in the States, even as they have done in our own boasted chmate, within the recollection of thousands still alive. In a new country, while it is yet in a raw state, such thincTs must for a time be expected ; but even the poor and hard worked emigrant has too often his own folly and imprudence to thank for his sufferings. Reckless and fool-hardy, he ex- poses his person to noxious vapours from the swampy borders of a lake, or to some sudden chill, when predisposed to fever from fatigue, or in a state of profuse perspiration. Others, again, fall victims to intemperance, and the blame rests most unjusdy wiiii the climate. There are two, or perhaps three, table-lands in Canada, which increase in salubrity as you rise above the level of the lakes, and of course these are points to be kept in view when chusing a location. That a certain degree of miasma exists is nevertheless certain, because even infants carefully attended to, are occasionally subject to aguish attacks; but, in general, a reasonable attention to sobriety, cleanliness, and personal comfort, will prove preventives, and the disease is gene- rally admitted to be on the decrease. In some seasons it breaks forth wholesale, like epidemics in other parts of the world. Three years ago this occurred in the Upper Province. The season had been extremely hot and moist. The waters of On- tario, generally clear as crystal, cast up a slime in the month 96 Mr Fergussoii's Notes made during a of July; and towards autumn, fever and ague raged ihrougli the land. Quinine is of course a sovereign specific, and for more ordinary practice, a tea-spoonful of sulphur in a wine-glass of brandy or other spirit, taken two or three times a-day, ac companied by cathartics and moderate nourishing diet, with suitable clothing, generally effects a cure. There are three public matters which have occasioned some excitement in the Upper Provinces, and may be shortly adverted to. 1*^, The oath of allegiance has been condemned for causinf* unreasonable and unnecessary discouragement to settlers from the States. After having heard a good deal of discussion on both sides, from those who ought to bo best informed upon the subject, I believe the discouragement to be either imaginary or much exaggerated, and that in fact, American citizens are subject- ed to no heavier obligation than what every government is enti- tled to exact, and to which foreigners from other countries are equally liable. 2c?, The old surveys and plans by which townships were laid out, and sections divided, have been too often inaccurate, and have given rise to much confusion, and an interminable crop of litigation. I heard many details of trouble and expense to land- owners from this source, and perhaps some revisal and adjust- ment by commission, or otherwise, might be advisable. M, Great has been the obloquy heaped upon the canals, and in many particulars, perhaps, not without cause. At the same time, when all indirect consequences are taken into account, the evil and loss may not be so great as many would represent it. To draw inferences from the superior advantage of railways, I hold to be unfair, as the canals have been so long in progress, and the other can only be said to have secured public confidence since the cities of Manchester and Liverpool became as one. A canal to unite Lake Erie with Ontario, so wonderfully, separated by nature, and yet so important to surmount, seems a reasonable object of mercantile enterprise to achieve. Whether it has been planned and executed in the best line and most economical man- ner, are questions separate and distinct ; but it ought surely to be more a subject of regret tlian of contumely, if it is likely to be superseded by a railway from Chippeway to Queenston. 1! • Visit to the United States and Canada in 1831. 97 This important measure has been checked for a season, but there can be little doubt that it will ultimately be carried through, and must prove of the greatest advantage. The line has been surveyed, and the expense will not exceed L. 10,000 or L. 12,000. Il is not unlikely diat the Americans will construct either a canal or railway from Lockport to Ontario, connecting the Erie canal with the lake, and which must prove another heavy ab- duction of traffic from the Welland. The Ilideau canal is one so entirely in the hands of Government, that I shall leave it there without remark. Education is a subject which cannot fail to interest emigrants of a higher class, and it may be of importance for such to know that the style of education for both sexes is rapidly improving. The Upper Canada College at York is well endowed, and when its wild acres shall be settled and cultivated, will become an in- stitution not to be sneered at by any Alma Mater at home. The charges at present are, Preparatory School for Boys. General Branches, per quarter, Fens, fuel, &c. per ditto, L. I 5 5 1,2 5 10 College for Senior Boys. Classical and General Branches, per quarter, Pens, fuel, &c. per ditto, Drawing, per ditto, .... Books extra. Board, under surveillance of the Principal, L.25 per annum. Besides which, there are other boarding-houses in York, and other boarding-schools nt Cornwall, &c. I would now offer a few remarks to those who may feel dis- posed to emigrate, l>om a view rather to prospective advantage than from the call of stern necessity, or from inability to provide for a numerous family at home. Assuming such an individual to be a man of sober habits, by which I would be understood to mean not merely a distaste for debauchery, but of a temperament which derives its chief enjoyment from the domestic circle, and from useful and rational pursuits; to such a man I am not afraid to sa" that Canada holds out an inviting field of enter- prize and profitable occupation. Let him not, however, suppose 98 Mr FergiissoiCs Notes made during a that he is just at once to bask in the full glare of prosptrilv. Many disagrhtwns await him, but none which a man of ordinary discretion and perseverance will be long of surmounting. The circumstances, connexions, and habits of individuals are so va- rious and so opposite, that it would be vain to draw up a sclieme of settlement suitable or palatable to all. Nothing, however, is more certain than this, that here, as in all human arrangements, much benefit may be derived from combined efforts. For such a purpose, my own wish would be to form a small association of colonists, who would go to market for a tract of land suited to their purpose, and which there can be no doubt they would pro- cure in a large block, and for a price to be paid down, upon very advantageous teims. Having made the purchase, let each individual be immediately put in absolute possession of liis own estate. Future arrangements would be dictated by circumstances ; and self-interest, the most efficient of all agents, could be easily brought to bear upon the good of all. Arti- sans, machinery, live-stock, with many other requisites, could be procured, at a remunerating rate for a community, which would never have paid a return to individual settlers, and a prosperous advance might soon be looked for. Of course, I cannot be supposed to contemplate a conmiunion of property, or such-like wise headed dreams ; but the mutual solace and com- fort of ten or a dozen respectable families thus planted together, is beyond any estimate we can form. Sickness and death itself would be shorn of many terrors to the head of a family, when thus assured of his little ones having kind and willing friends around him, embarked in the same concern, and yet having no tempta- tion to injure or defraud. Objections to such a plan may be raised upon the ground of human fickleness and whim, and cer- tainly the selection would require to be made with strict atten- tion to character and sense ; but no insuperable difficulty pre- sents itself to my mind, which should prevent it from being carried into successful operation. I would have the stock agreed upon placed in the hands of respectable agents, as the Upper Canada Bank, or a bank at home, a small committee appointed, and power given to make a purchase, and to have it surveyed and divided, and each man's portion set off by lot, or in such other way as might be preferred. Should any special ad van- Visit to the United States and Canada in 1831. 99 tage, as e mill-power, jjypsum-quarry, &c. accrue to one portion of the property, it niif«ht be again appropriated by lot, or have such conditions attached to it, for common behoof, as would place all the parties on a par. Our farming interests at home have been severely scourged of late years, and capital has been, at each revolving term, com- pelled to meet demands, which profits reasonably expected ought to have supplied. Nor is it perhaps the least lamentable part of the case, that, notwithstanding the too palpable loss before their eves, scarce a farm comes into the market without a very general competition. How shall we seek to solve conduct so much at variance with ordinary discretion? Perhaps it fre- quently arises from a man having grown up to middle life, wi»h his hal.its and views fixed beyond a change ; or, again, with a valuabK- stock, for which no adequate price is to be had, — in which pn dicanient there scarce remains for him a choice but to ventun up a serious step, not to be lightly adopted^ and which, above all, they must remember, cannot with safety, consistency, or credit, be retraced. In Canada he will become p.-oprielor in fee-simijlc of lands, at a rate per acre which would scarce pay half of his ycnrly nut at home ; but this is to be effected at a sacrifice of many early tics and connections, and by a cheerful submission to many privations and botherations, which will re- quire a steady and cheerful temper to surmount. From the prices of land, the rates of wages and labour, and the value of produce, which are given, and for the accuracy of which, I think I can pledge my credit, every man will be enabled to form a judgment for himself, so far as written statements avail ; and I will only again repeat, that Upper Canada certainly appears to me blessed with all the solid materials of human happiness, independence and comfort. How long she is to continue in pupillage, or when the period will arrive when the parental tie is to be severed, are questions, momentous indeed, but difficult to solve. It must, however, be the anxious desire of every pa= triotic Briton and Canadian, that, happen when it may, or how it may, a cordial spirit of mutual concession and goodwill shall H mA 100 Mr Fer^ussori's Notes made during a be the instruments of bringing it to an adjustment. In this, and in no other way^ can either country hope to derive from it security or advantage. I am conscious that I have occupied more of these pages than I fear my readers will approve, and shall therefore make a halt for the present, merely concluding with a few tables, which may be useful. They are drawn from sources equally authentic, but different fiom those formerly given. Prices of Live-Slock, Upper Canada. Horsea, L. 7 10 to Oxen for labour, per pair, lo Milch Cows, 3 15 Implements, ^c. Waggon for a pair of horses L. 20 Harness for do. do A plough, Brake-harrow, Long chains to drag trees, i.;ach, Double horse-sleigh, Common ox-sleigh, 10 3 2 1 7 2 5 Produce. \\lieat, per bushel, L- Barley do. Oats do. Indian corn, do. Pease do. Potatoes do. Hay per ton, 3 2 1 1 2 6 G G 6 6 1 6 2 Wases and Labour. Hire of a man for farm-work, with board, per month, Do. of female for ordinary house-work, do. Carpenter per day, Blacksmith on job per month, Do. for a set of shoes, Chopping per acre, jr.j.rfcjjj" 'ff^llecting and dratr'^ing) do Ordinary fencing of split ral :.^, per rood, Post and rail fencing, per rood, Sowing and harrowing per acre, L. 10 17 10 5 to L.0 5 3 2 « 6 3 2 2 10 L.2 10 1 10 5 4 6 10 1 10 1 1 I 1 10 5 6 • ; 1 Visit to the United States and Canada in 1831. 101 Reaper's wages (find themselves) p?r day, 6 Common labourers at Indian corn or potato work, do 3 6 Wheat, reaped, and hauled into rick.yard and stacked, per acre,... 10 Thrashing and winnowing, per bushel, 6 Household Furniture. Handsome sideboard, two doors, and five drawers, L. 16 Secretary or writing-table, 10 Sofas, L. 12 to 16 Diniiig-tables — three to a set, 7 Bureaus, six drawers, 5 Do. do. j)lain, 4 Do. with four drawers, 3 Breakfast-tables, 16 Black walnut chairs, hair-bottoms, each 1 15 Common Windsor chairs, each, 5 D awing-room table, claw feet, 7 10 Do. do. do, plain, 4 10 Bedsteads, high posts, , 2 Tent do 110 Dressing-table and washstand, 1 lo Double washstand, 1 10 Light washstand, 12 Ladies' work-table, ^ 1 10 These articles are handsomely and substantially finished ; and the native woods, such as bird's eye nia|)le, black walnut, hirch, elm, oak, cherry, &c. supply excellent and beautiful materials.