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'•*^ ' -J. • ...Jf' '^ M* i^ /i *.'»/ -If • I f JSfcr .♦' 'J*.- .V O Y A »• <»• Gr -v^ E .4^'ll ^i TO TH« PACIFIC OC EANi ■r r V > . •^ 0^ ins MAJESTY, fO» MAKING "^ ; S C O V E R I E E S ^ li '. .«^' ; 1^ /^£i?j\r HEMISPHERE, *""■ *BI DIRECTION •». I vol.. M;; It \ \t>\ f^I^NTfiD BY u. BROWN, ^ ^ W c 4 S 7 JL J?. H-XS*: • a^^ man( V 'captain COOK', N ^■»'*r of Officer, andM^tf':f°^'"' "'^"- F '^^ Refitution. '" '" "^'' ^'^■'P-Departun ^ LI ? "4"^^ea tons, was ar %^r . "^ -Diicoverr of board the R„r 1 '^Pfa'" Cook's Second r-' ^' ^Pf' ,,vorld. ^'^''^'""°« in his fccoadTotje"^n'e'^ I tk r "> ^o^ round the [ i nefe two fhios w of 33C ^0 •> mt •w^^^^^w . "fe»*[a>m» m Mt: I m ^ ^ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. i 4. I of March to complete her rigging, and take in fiores and proviiions for the voyage. Both (hips, indeed, wercl abundantly fupplied with every thing requilite fcr al voyage cjf fuch duration, We failed on the 29th ofj JVTay, and arrived the next day at Long Reach, wberd our powder and ihot, and other ordnance ftorcs, were! received. I On the 8th of Jun^, while we lay in Long Reach, wtf had the fatisfadtion of a vilit from the Earl of Sandwich/ Sir Hugh PalHfer, and others of the Board of Admiraltyj to examine whether every thing had been completej- purfuant to their orders, and to the convenience of tholj who were tojembark. Tliey honcured Captain Cool with their company to dinner on that day ; and weij faluted, on their coming on board, and on their goinj ^ore, with feventeen guns and three cheers. ^ I . To convey feme permanent benefit to the inhabitani of Otaheitc, and of the other iflands which we migl happen to vifit, his Majefty commanded fome ulefl animals to be taken our. On the loth w^e took on boal- sk bull, two cows with their calves, and fome ihecJ ifili liay and corn for their fupport. We were al fmnillied with a fuflicient quantity of our valua| European garden feeds, which might add freih fuppl jj-- of food to the vegetable produdions of our newly-c • Covered iflands. Both the Ihips, by order of the Board of Admiral were amply fupplied with an extenlive aflbrtment iron tools and irinkets, to facilitate a friendly commei dnd intercourfe with the inhabitantsof fuch new countr ss we might difcover. With refpedl to our own war noihing was refufed us that might be conducive to hea comfort, or convenience. Thofe at the head of the naval department w equally folicitous to render our voyage of public utili accordingly we received on board, the next day, var ot" aftronomical and nautical inftruments, which Board of Longitude intruded to Captain Cook and King, his Second Lieuiensnt : they having engage ' iui rAGE. ce in (lores andi > indeed, were rcquifite fcr aj n ihe 29th or Reach, when ce (lores, wen ong Reach, w rl of Sandwicb d of Admiralty >een complete inience of tbol Captain Coo day ; and wei on their goin leers. the Inhabit an hich we mig led fome u(efi e took on boa d fome Ihec We were a f our valual d freih fuppl our newly-(. \ of Admiral affortment ndly conimei h new coumr our own war iucivc to heal partmeht w f pubUc utili extday, var nts, which Cook and 'ing engage] iui CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. | fiipply the place of a profefied ohfervator. The Board, ilikcwire, put into their polTeilion the time-keeper, which Captain Cook had carried out in his lad voyage, and which had performed fo well. It was conftrudled by Mr Kendal, and was a copy of Mr Harrifon's. Another ! time-keeper, and fhe fame a(rortment of aftrouomicdl I and other inftruments, were put on board the Dilcovery, I for the ufe of Mr William Bailey, a diligent and (kilful ohfervator, who was engaged to embark with Captain Gierke. Mr Anderfon, Surgeon to Captain Cook, added to his profe(rional abilities a great proficiency in natural hiflory. He had already vifited the South-Sea Ifland/:p glfo round to Plymouth. The Refolution, with the Difcover/ in ccmpany^ failed from Long Reach on the 15th ot June, and an- chored at the Nore the fame evening. 1 he Difcovcry proceeded the next day in obedience to Captain Cock's order, and the Refolution remained at the Nore till Captain Cook who was then in London, lliculd join heji ... It beina; our intention to touch at Ctahelte and the Society 1 (lands, it had been deterniipecl to cany Omiii back to his native country: accordtrigiy Capt^tlii Cook and he let out from London early on the 24th, aud i^eicheJ i Though Omai le^ff j i habitants : bur tlJ^t^^n^^^' ^^^W counfrv o-^fJ:.. P^ I v^mai was furnKhfJ H u- "JPPy- in England ih/l . i •' .^^" «np oyed d,,ri„ l- '^''ery ment rfcomt? • "' '"«, ^cpanuri, to mlfc, l""« ^« abode r ^^fanforthcDownsfilfc:*^ anchor, aad I^^or hVoJ "'"? Ae fame day 4 ii";^^^ « N. VV? Cite ^T nta^rwL H- Ca^^^ ^ernooTt; !nf ""1 "«' day at two >f°>"'f for --^.-u.So.doa.,e3ot,a. thi'et ''^^: •■•-*, OtAQIL CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. I o*clock, wheri «*cc o'clock in the afternoon. The Difcovery had ar- me degree of lacing the water and provisions we had expended, and urs and induU i receiving on board a fupply of port wine. On the tion Was madti th Captain CooJ? received his mftrudions for the voy- 7ith joy. He je, and an order to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope try and its ii>, nth the Refolution ; with dire(Slions alfo to leave an :urning home, rder for Captain Qerke to follow him, as foon as he lould join his fhip, he being at that time in London. The oflBcers and men on board the Refolution (inclu-* ing marines) were one hundred and twelve, and thofc n board the Difcovery were eighty. On the loth of July the proper perfons came on oard, and paid the oflfcers and crew up to the 30th of ift month. The petty officers and feamen received aU b two months' wages in advance. Such indulgence to lers. Every he latter is cuftomary ; but the payment of what was ng his abode lue to the fuperior officers, was in confideration of our )eculiar fituation, to enable us to defray the expence >f furnifhing ourfelves withneceffaries tor a voyage of iich uncommon duration. In the morning of the i ith, Captain Cook delivered Into the hands of Mr Burney, Firft Lieutenant of the Difcovery, Captain Clerke's failing orders ; a copy of vhich he alfo left with the commanding officer of his Vlajefty's ihips at Plymouth, to be delivered to the Zlaptain on his arrival. In the afternoon we weighed ivith (he ebb, and got out beyond all the fliipping in he Sound, where we were detained moft of the fol- owing day. At eight o'clock in the evening, we nveighed again, and flood out of the Sound, with a genr |J? breeze at N. W. by "VV^, jable treafures i fuperiority as to fupprefs on board the ith Quantities n estimation refents from 11 the inftru- Ited opinion "fhchor, and :e at N. W. I, with the Ite Point S. [and flood the ikme fain Cook built for :k in the )on died lock the (own the [oth, at thre^ The Captain cook, ' ""RD VOTAGM. .1 It W"i>' Wt * We had calm Si '"'• ^'^^ ^"e- Cr„ ^^^feSfaJ^^^^^^^^^ ^3d. and o„F Captain (foot H^ ^- ^- ^'^^ -^'nifterre TTn" ^^ yOTAGi. ^Ptm cf Santa Cr]^. '^^—^ome Account ^ '''*'' '^ndLaguna,^ P^^h Sound, th "^ We were noi ^e evening. ''''' ;fSe Agnes, oi ant abont /evci f'J, We Were o; '^^t o'dock inl J^fd nine fail 01 ^mcnofwarJ ^ Cape Orte.| '^ ^'nifterre,; '«;nenfs for ^[>^y. at l^P ^rt of] ^'lati/Jand, or Santa / , , ./'nmedi^r I a/fPr", i ' fourteen S officer o^V^''r"h Captain CnJ'^°'»"''-no'- ve?v I'^ompanied h °f *Pf»'" Cook w;.^!? °" '^'^ arrival Smed tohis fK[°T ?^ ''« officer! ''."•r" him, ac. pat runs from 1 ?-m* ^^"A is deriv.A '''^ "''« of fown in wood! ^'^ '"""' which is .n ^''°'n a rivulet p/ficient to fimrj .^^^'^^e^» that ,> nV;^ f^^' ^'"om the duceofthei/land bLf ''°J'S'' vvine , t| L w •'?°"S'' P^rf'ng a pound 'th.f'"*y> hadat abo, fi "''^ P'°- Poney- Sheer, ^ °^*^"> however /rl r "''^e-pe'ice h terms eqS^eoats, ^'og,, and',^£"-'''. '^4 and ^re to be ^^fj jeafonable. ^ l^T ^'- ""^^ he had . Voi. i:Lj,l^'" P^^'^'y. ^3 peart, 1'f:,="«y "f bruits **• B ^' ^"P"' mulber- ries. JO CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. ries, mufk melons, &c. befides others that were n< then in ieafon. The pumpkins, potatoes, and oftioi which grow here, are excellent. Indian corn is produced on this ifland, and is fold about three (hillings and fix-pence perbufliel : the fruit] and vegetables are, in general, very cheap. Thougl the inhabitants are but indifferently fupplied with fm by the adjoining feas, they are engaged in a confiderabh fifhery on the coaft of Barbary, and the produce of it fells at a very moderate price. Teneriffe is certainly a more eligible place thanl Madeira, for Ihips to touch at which are bound on long voyages ; but the wine of the latter is infinitely fuperior i to that of the former : the difference of their prices is almoft as conliderable as their qualities, for the bed Teneriffe wine was fold for twelve pounds a pipe, whereas a pipe of the beft Madeira was worth conndev- 1 ^bly more than double that fum. Behind the town of Santa Cruz, the country rifea I gradually to a moderate height ; afterwards it continuesi to rife louth weftward towards the celebrated peak of I Teneriffe. But we were much difappointed in our ex-f pc6i:ations with refpedt to its appearance*. Tlie ifland, caftward of Santa Cruz, appears perfectly |d barren. Ridges of high hills run towards the fea, be-l^ tween which are deep vatlics, terminating at mountains!'^ that run acrofs and are higher than the former. I f< Oh the I ft of Auguft in the forenoon, Mr AnderfbnL (Captain Cook's furgeon) went on fhore tooneof thefel^ vallies, intending to reach the top of the remoter hills,f '^^ but time would not permit liim to get farther than their I^^ W ed Jllc • In Sprat's Hlftory of the Royal Societj, page 200, &c. 13 an account of a journey to the top of the peak of TeneriiFe. A modemii.^ traveller, viz. the Chevalier de Borda, who meafured the height ofl J- this mountain in Auguft 1776, makes it 12,340 Engllfli feet. 1^ po foot,K ^ric VOYAGE. * lers that were not ►tatoes, and bfiion» ♦^^ and, and is fold at rbufhel; the fruits cheap. Though [upphed with m Un a confiderable the produce of it siWe place than •e bound on Ions nfinitely fuperior ot their prices is les, for the beft pounds a pipe, worth confides- le country rifes ^^ds it continues ebrated peak of I nted in our ex- pears perfeajy ■^s the fea, be- ; at mountains >rmer. Mr Anderfon =o one of thefe remoter hiJJs, aer than their 200, &c. IS an ffe- A modern fmaU there, we did nor or. ;„ i /i * "^ Difcoverv not h«m. We loft the N I fr', ^' '^"'J'' '° fhe fouth ward ^ the Cape deV^dfiflS"'":' ''^^'^y '"'^^^-eleft which blows from the S F ' T^' °''- *' ^°'^^ Sot that erval was principalfy i„ ^he^tv '"''• ''""•'S^Ws i„^ wily blew a gentle breeze hm r " 9"^««''- h sene- fqualls We^ad few cal^s ^JThT^V^;?'^' =•"<« ^n much th« w:7e,?3ed"to^ff -''3^ --'' ^^nt 1, we I tehf --" '•^^k^wl^^ firSndt'"^ ^'^"^"^ hereU I Sg ^Se^^/''^^^^ ^'-^^ dihttV-v'or "un " Ifr'. '^ ' ReTSrd'K,"r ^"^'y °'''-'d on" ■ i"»o!vra'erlired ^"^^''erTeam /b wPe VhJif '"'^^^ d told Lrn ry,r fhrotigh as it fell Th ' if ^ '^^ ""l- t nnp P''"-TOom were driven frnm ,1 • , "^ o^^'^ers in the but miM m t6 CAPTAm: COOK'S tHIRt) VOYAGfi. but Captain Cook Would not truft them over the fidc^ while we were at fea. On the ift of Septeiiiber, we croffed the equator, in the longitude of 2 yd. 38 m. W* and pafled the after- noon in performing the old ceremony of ducking thofe, who had not croffed the equator before. On the 8th, we were a little to the fouthward of Gape St Auguftine. We proceeded on our voyage, without any remarkable occurrence, till the 6th of Odtober. Being then in the latitude of 35 d. i^ m. S. longitude 7 d. 4.5 m. W. we alternately met with light airs and calms for three fuc- ceffive days. For fom;e days before we had feen alba- troffes, and pintadoes, and we then faw three penguins. In confequence of this we founded, but found no ground with a line of one hundred and fifty fathoms. We (hot a few birds, one of which w^as a black petrel ^ about the lize of a crow. In the evening of the 8th, a bird, which the failors call a noddy, fettled on our rigging, and was taken. It was larger than a common Englifti black-bird, and near- ly of the fame colour, except the upper part of the head, which was white. It was web-footed, had black legs, and a long black bill. Though it is faid thefe, birds never venture far from land, we knew of none nearer our ftation than Cough's or Richmond Ifland, which could not be lefs than one hundred leagues. Bat, as the Atlantic Ocean, fouthward oiF us, has been but little frequented, there may poffibly be more iflands| than we know of. A frefli gale from the N. W. fucceeded this calmi weather, which continued two days. Afterwards we had variable light airs for about twenty-four hours, when the N. W. wind returned, and blew Irelh. Onj the 17th we faw the Cape of Good Hope» and, on the] 18th, anchored in Table Bay, in four fathoms water. After receiving the ufual vifit from the mailer atten-| dant and the Surgeon, Captain Cook fent an ofiicer tc Baron Plettenberg, the governor, and fainted the garri- fon with thirteen guns, and was complimented, in re- turnJ COJJ Go Cor Cfij) vcrn company. On the 2 2d we fixed our tents and oaiervatory ; the next day we began to obferve equal altitudes of the fun, in order to difcover whether tlie watcli had altered its rate. The caulkcn; v/ere fct to work to caulk the fliip ; and Capt. Cook had concerted meafurcs for iupplyini; both fhips with fuch proviliojis as >A'ere wr.nted ; and, as the feveral articles for the Refolution were got rea^y, they were immediately conveyed on board. The homeward-bound French Ihip failed for Europe on the 26tli, and by her we fent liitu rs to Eogland. I The next day the Hampfhire Eafl-India flii[i,. fVom Bcncoolcn, anchored in the bay. On the 31ft of OdloberJ it blew cxccflivelv hard at S. IL and continued for Ihree days. I'he Refolutioii was the only f hip in the bay that rode out the gale without dragging her anchors. The florm ceafed on the 3d of November, anc! on the C)i.]\ the Hampfhire failed for Entrland, in which Ca:.r. Cook fent home an invalid. On the lolh, in the ir.orn- ing, the Difcovery arrived in the bay. She failed from Plymouth on the ifl of Augufi-, and would have been with us a week fooncr, had not the lite gale cf wind blown her off the coaft. Capt. Clerkc, on h.Is pafujgc from England, lofl one of his marines, by falling over board. No other accident" happened among his peo- ple, and they arrived in perfed: health. Vol.11. N^27. # G The mm 18 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE* The next day, theDifcovery wanting caulking, Co pf* Cook icnt all Iiis workmen on board her, and lent every other iilliflancc to the Captain to expedite his fupply of provifions an^l water. Ilaviii;^, by tlie Governor's permiffion, taken our callle on ihore, on the niglit preceding the 14th, fome riogG m'L in arnongft the fheep, forced them out of tlie pen, killed fovir, and dii'perfed the reft. We recovered fix of them the next day ; but among thofe which were miirmg, were two rams, and two 01 the fined ewes in t!»e wliole il:ock. Though the Dutch frequendy boaft of the police at the Cape, yet the Captain's Iheep evaded ail the vigilance of the Fifcal's officers and people. At length, afr'cr much trouble and expence, by employing fome of the lowert fellows of the place, we recovered all but the two ev.'cs. One of the rams, however, was fo miferably torn by the dogs, that we thought he would never recover. MrHenimy,the Lieutenant-Governor, very obliging- ly offered to make up this lofs, by giving Capt. Cook a Spanifh ram, out of fome he had fent for from Lif- bon ; but the Captain declined the offer, thinking it would equally anfwer his purpofe to take with him fome of the Cape rams : in this, hov/ever, the Captain was miftaken. Mr Hemmy had endeavoured to intro- duce European flieep at the Cape ; but all his attempts were friiftrated by the obilinacy of the country people, v;ho higldy elleem their own breed, on account of their large tails ; the fat of which fometimes produces more money than the whole carcafe befides. Indeed, the moil remarkable thing in the Cape (lieep is the length and thicknefs of their tails, .which weigh from ten to iifteen pounds. While the fhips were repairing for the profecution of our voyage, Mr Anderfon, and fome of our officers, made an excurfion, to take a furvey of the neighbour- ing country. Mr Anderfon relates their proceedings tQ the following effect : ; , In the forenoon of Saturday the 16th of November, he^ he of eal ref At fan plai ieve t mou Tow- neat plant deferi orcha cellen the 11 n At hut fe\ He am ing, an •^>aturd^ fent the fained [ pitaiity. which ( wliich ij In the ^bnie Jar «i farm h vated tra f)rakenft contains / Plants i '>ut there naturally country. On Tuc CAPTAIN COOK'. TTi„r, vwuivs rillRD VOYArp hf. and five ortier, '•.. ■ "-"AGE. eaftvvard of the tovvn wl ^1 ''• '''* .'"'f^^ ?'«'" to i.T refemW ng that whTch is i'm,,.'.' T""'''^ *«'Wte fand ^t hve ,n the afternoo. th°t ,1 a- L'' '?""'^ "'^ l''-^ '^'"^ a vie.-,- of 20 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. fee a remarkaMe large flone, railed by the inhabitants the Tower of Babylon, or the I'earl Dimoiul. it ftands upon tlie ||p of Ibnie low hills, and is of an oblong fhaj)e» rounded on the lop, and lying nearly S. and N. The \i. and W. fides arc nearly nerpcndicjin*. 'ihe 8. end is not equally (hep, but its greatrlt height is there; whence it dedintrs gently to the N. pait, by wliich they afcended, and liad a very cxtenlive i)ro- fpcdt of the whole country. 1 he circumference of this flone is about half a mile, as they were half an hour walking round it, including allowances for Hopping and a bad road, hs height feems to equal the dome of St Paul's church. Except fomc few hifures, it is one uninterrupted maii3 of Hone, 'J>.e{lone is of that fort which mincralogilb call Saxuni Con^lulinutum, On the 2oth, in the morning, they fet out from the Pekrl, and going a different road, palled through an un- cultivated country to the Tyger Hills, where they be- held fome tolerable corn-fields. About noon, they Hop- ped in a valley for refreHmient, where they were plagued with a valt number of mufquitoes ; and, in the even- ing, arrived at Gape Town. On Saturday the 23d, we got the obfervatory, clock, &c. on board. From the relult of leveral calculations and obfervations, we liad reafon to conclude, that the watch, or time-piece, had performed well ail the way from England. The See , Arri- cover CAP /h( He a!fo two heif ibme ew, l^othf iiinicient ncce/J^iry plerke a M'l the ni( S. E. at fi Y^^ Hoodl anchored.! J^\;cfghed I Itlid not g] porninff. On lln Ithe mizen I phcr to r^ pien in th( bde of 21 t^^ater of a ''''ter that Jinall anim| pnble era] CAPTAIN COOK'ii THIRD VOYAGE. « TL: Rcfolution and Difcovery leave inc Cope of Good IIopc-^ See iwo IJlands^ named Prince Edivard's Ifijndi /)<:- fcription cf their Appearance — Vijit Kcrguckns Land — Arrive at Chri/imas Harbour — Take in Water there — Dif^ cover an Infcription, — Dcfcripion cf Chrijhnas Harbour. Tk CAPT. COOK fearlnf- a fccond lUfaftcr, got his fheep and other cattle on beard as foon as pofFiMe. He allb increafed his flock by purcbaring two hulls, two heifers, two Rone horfes, two marcr., two rnmj;, |i()ine ewes and goats, Ibme poultry, and Pjnie r;»bbitp. ' Both fliips being fupplicd with provifions and water Ifiimcient for two years and iipwardr, and every other ncccfiary article, and Captain Cock having given Capt. Gierke a copy of his inftrudtions, we repaired on board Ii\ the morning of the 30tli. A breeze fprung up at S. E. at five in the afternoon, with which wc weighed, and flood out of the Bay ; at nine it fell calm, and we anchored. At three o'clock tlie next morning, w^e [weighed and put to fea, witli a light breeze at S. but lilid not get clear of land till the 3d of December in the |morning. On Thiirfday the 5th, a fquall of wind carried away Ithe mizen top-mad of the Rcfolution, but we had an- lothcr to replace it. On the evening of the 6th, being pen in the latitude of i^o d. 14 m. S. and in the longi- [ude of 23 d. ^6 m. li. we obferved feveral fpots of rater of a reddjih hue. Upon examining fome of this nter that was taken up, we perceived a number of fmall animals, which the microfcope difcovered to re- femble cray fifh. We CAP TAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYACfe. Wc contlnac;! to tlic S. E. followed by a mouiitainciis fca, jWjh||^ .'Ccarioncd the Diip to roll cxcecdinf^ly, and rerv.iS^fcour c?vl: troubleloiiie. Several goats, efpe- cialiy SRnali'S, died, and fomt: Iheep. Wc now began to feci tiie cold in a very fcniible degree. On Tbiirfday the I2ih, at noon, we dlfeovered landlrinr^ * rxtcnding irom d. il. by b» to 6. IL. by t,, y ^\"'lde"Ker:^ lengib, dilcovered it to be two idands. That which licilnew no |of the air and Ah covered U) the c ones, was fceit tioned : moil to rlie foiuh, appeared to be about fittccn leagues in circuit ; aud the moft northerly one, about nine leagues in circuit. V/e .palled at equal diftance from both iflands, and could nor difcover either tree or Ihrub on either of them. They feenied to liave a rocky fliore, and tfxceptinj^Bo'Ji'"'* * the S. k. pait^, a ridge of barren mountains, whole lidcstflpj \^'. and i\ini:rii:s were covered with fuow. ■ PrerentI Thele two illands, and four otiicrs more to the E-Ivock: it were dilcovered bv Captains Marion du Frefnc andju..^" '- . . pnim.d. 1 he w :cked, ) atl re (en Crozcv, French navigators, in January 1772, on theirl pallage irom the C.'.pe of Good Hope to the Philippine] Illands. As they have no n^^mes in the French chart oil the fouthern heir.ifnhrre, Captain Cook named the twtj we now faw Tiince Edward's Illands, and the othcij four l)y the name of ivlarion's and Crozet's I/lands. We had, r.ov,-, in general, ftrong gales, and very in^ diiTcrent ^.nther. After leaving Prince Edward'^ in.iiid •, Vvc ihaped our courle to p.ds to the fouthwanJ oi'ihe lour others, to get into the latitude of the land dif-l covered by Moniieiir de Kerguelen. Captain Ccolc iiad received inftruiSlions to examinj this ifland, and endeavour to difcover a good harbourj ,onk jndtr irj ne i^ren riancois, te iif.pght on Towards in inlet; bt bending o |c'ind C'ape Having g ic ibuthwai L'!-ef()re, fui n difcovei On the 16th xve faw numbers of penguins and diverslt],Q,j^g ^^^ and rock- weed fioating in the fea; and on the 21ft wWe^ Mr P iiiw a very large feal. The weather was now ven MrB roour: wh foggy, and a^ we hourly expet^ed to fall in with thafaj-jy 'jp t| land, our navigation v\^as both dangerous and tedious. Ivin'/wro ^^ On the 24th, at lix in the morning, the fog clearinJrhnmo ',„ l^^ away a iittJe, v/e law land, bearmg b. b, E. which wi^j^g ^ftf-r ^ afterwards four.d to be an ifiand of con^derablc heightP '' " ^'^^ and CAPTAIN COOIC's Til I-5VMV. ntaincu,, |covere7'' "'I'^ '"'"f:"'^" =" cirr„i. ^^r, r tIv ^n.il^'^^" another of pri,, I '•'"-^ i<. Wc ^o^^a *ea andip,. * • r\ . ^^ ^ ^'"? i rouMrl vc^.a- \\ ^ ^^ men- We, a fe'" ("7'= '■"ppo/i-d il; to tt,";''"«V''-'-'''^^ ^-r- "' ""4nitL "' '"^ " '^^ «"-.iy i-cSie"to ':;:•■; S 'cl'', aiKl|,,i!;f '^'^'''.'''f I'ca;innin5 to clear .,„ .k , "^' )f.l»-„,r^.y'', ;""! ttcere,! i„ for the hud ^';^'" ''''^■'^"' ^^"= |.iHed ,tat three oY-l.^k wifj, !". n°" ''• 4'3 m. Wc the E.| Jf .'-?"r alt.r wo ^tr'^ '!"', f ' ^^ W. he an,ir-*'^" '^•'''"■det! fiorn .'( E „ .^ 'l]^''' ••'•t '^t four lippin* Th'; '" '•''^1 '° ,'"-" 'he northern S'V T'-^'' '' ^ •''Plain :hart o|,t';? '7'^'' .'-'''art of ,i,e /;- "^ ?, ' "'■':^ •',''""'' ""^''1 ''« '«IerS ' '^'"""^-^d in a hi^h !:';'' ..r'",''f"'^''',e Cape % iJr''"' ""^onot.ra^po; j'^^^ thwarjo -^^ tranoois. ' ''"-"-"'"•■, bore lip to ,,o '*°'«-|,.rdint!v fell " ' ' " "''^'''^' ^"^ K-?"" to ■pi;.-'^^ r verfri ;.,,^' ^''Sl'. the tnafter,^w;s „ 'te' ^"''^ '''"" 'th thlF X „^^ f^P^ned it to CfafJ^ 'P/, '° '"""«^ the °a^-rj ''^' '•''°"ght into the harvv,-^^' "^^ ^vd;;hed, and :eiJ*^ -ernoon; .hen ^.^^^X^S^i, « that tAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. thifllfeliaJ with (lifficuky efcaned being driven on tliCj S. pfSljof the liarhour, lus anchor having ftarted be- fbrMJ^ould fiior'p!! in t'lc cal.>le. They were, there- fore, c^pgcd to fct tail, and drag the nnchctr after theni,| ti!! they h 'd roOiii ro heave it vit), 'vvliea they perccivc(i| that one of its palir.p. v/as In-oken clF. immediately alter we had anchored, Captain Cook I ordered all the boats to be hoill:ed ont and the empty | water cafk,; to he f; ct ready. In the mean time he land- ed, lo leaich for a conveaient fpot where they might| be nileJ, and to obierve what the place afibrded. He ii and vrifl (mantities ofpcnguins,and other birdsJ and ("jal-, on the ihore. 'The latter weie not numerou?, but io i!::e!ifib:e c:: fear, that we Idlied as many as we| chofe, and nuatle uie ot their fat and blubber to make (/il (or our lamps, and other purpofes. Frelii w^ter was! e*i'jeedingly plentiftil ; but not a fmgle tree or ihrul) was to be dircovered,aad but little lierbagoof any kinil;! tlicugh we had llattered ourfelves with the hope ctl meeting v;ith fometiiing confidi;rable growing here,! having obftrved the lides of fome of the lulls to be of a| lively green. ' Before (captain Cool: returned to his fliip, he afcend- ed a ridge of rocks, riling one above another, exped- ing, by that means, to obtain a view of the country , hut before he ha;! readied the top, io thick a fog camJ on, that it was with dllficulty he could find hi? v^ayf down again. Tov/ards tlie evening we harded the ioine at the liead of the harbour, but caught no mor^ than half a d(r/r-n fmall lilh ; nor har Ihni!) ty kinii; I'lope of ig here, ) be of a afcend- cxpedl- lountry )g cam.ii Ihi? v^ay ,led the more better nd Tme. ins, was lurfda] ;ral"s foi [he har- 1 degree knidin? the harbour, appeared to be covered with a fli^et of water. ^: The people having laboured hard for two mcceflive days, and nearly completed our watet. Captain Cook allowed them the 27th day of December as a day of reft, to celebrate Chriftmas. In confeqaence of which, many of them went on Ihore, and made excurfions in- to the country, which they found defolate and barren in the extreme. In the evening one of them prcfented a quart bottle to Captain Cook, which he had found on the north fide of the harbour, fattened with fome wire to a projecting rock. This bottle contained a piece of parchment, with the following infcription ; r Ludovico XV, Gallia rum , ' .• • rege^et d* de Boy ties rt^i a Secretis ad res maritimas aniiis 1772 ^/ ■ 1773' It is evident, from this infcription, that we were not the firfl: Europeans who had vilited this harbour, (^.apt. Cook luppofes it to have been left by Monfieur de Boif- guehenneu, who went on fliore the 1 3th of February, 1772, the day that Monfieur de Kergueien difcovered this land ; but the Captain appears to be for once mil- taken ; for how could Monlieur de BoUguehenneu, in in the beginning of 1 772, leave an infcription which commemorates a tranlaction ot" the following ye ir ? Captain Cook, as a memorial of our having been in this harbour, wrote on the other fide of the parchment as follows : l^avis Refolution et Dijcovery de Rege Magna Britannia Decembris 1776. * The d Is probably a contract ion of the word Domino. Vol. II.— N"? 27. J> He 26 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. k I He then jnit it ?^,inn into the bottle, accompanied with a filver two penny piece of 1772, covered the moutli. of ilie bottle v/iih a Icfideii cap, and placed it the next morning in a ytuc of Hones, erciftcd for that pnrpofe on an emlnrnce, ncc-r tlie [)lacc where it was hrft found. Jlcre (>pt. ('ock t terminates in a higii rock, perforated quite through, forming an appearance like the arch of a bridge. The litail of tlie harbour lies open to only two points of the cf^mpciis, and thefe are covered by iilanda in the rf'ing, (?> that a fea cannot fall in to hurt a fhip. It is high water i:cre about ten o'clock at the full and change days, and the fiderifes about four feet. In the afternoon, Captain Cook, accompanied by Mr Khjg, his Second Lieutenant, went upon Cape Franco!^ cxped;ing from this elevation to have had a view of the iea-coaiT, and the ifiands lying off it. But they found every diilant objedl below them, hid in a thick fog. The land even with them, or of a greater height, was vifible enough, and appeared exceetlingly naked and de- ^folalej except fome hills to the fouth ward, which w^ere covered with fuow. When they returned to the fhip, they found her unmoored, and ready to put to fea ; but we did not weigh anchor tiil five oclcck the nt : moi'niDg. Depart ^4 ■*c Dl fii cd. ^^ Captain cook-, « THIRD VOYAGE. 27 ^'^"•^ f"'"' Chnflmas Harbour P l^pe Cumberland, C,.,l, ZTbTJ . "'""^ 'he Coafi.^ Foreland, y,. defiriJl^^f^T,^''"* '''■'"g''^, ^'^--' ' '• 'J ^"■&'''hn\ Land. a f,„e breeze and clear weS^" ^fe'''^ -*«. wifh -"edCapecSbXrSrr'"'' Captain Cook I I'fs aoout a league and a Sf '"'".°'" '^'«''it o'clock Chnftmas Harbour ; betweeSem'^ '^^ '^"'^ P°i«^of f^Pe Cumberland is a fmMI ifi, ^" *e°°ng the get out cnter- naking il, ^nci Ending ■ walk, about or co- in left,- cove, jptairi I ruber frelh culty, land h re- four . W. that ms ; Ithe ard- CAPTAIN COOK'. 7'Mr,> having got three f»- fo„r I . ^^ fountains end al.' f^M "'' ^^ ^^^^ ^'^i Jev.] tj ^''t noon we nr-r.:-, t. , --fi m Cape JJi,b' .! :';!:• ,'^^'^"''«" ^-l^we- S i^v ^"1 ^y> It trends near vS W i V -^^ ^'^* ^J^'om Canp 7^; Captain Cook p .VJ n ' ^^ ^' ^^> « low noinr ^ ^ , ^'^' of CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. of the whole coaft, which in honour of his Majefty, was diftinguirtied by the name of Cape George. Between Point Charlotte, and the Prince of Wales's Foreland, we difcovered a deep inlet, which was called Royal Sound ; and, advancing to the S. we law another inlet into the Royal Sound, on the S. W. iide of the Prince of Wales's Foreland. On thcS. VV. fide of the Royal Sound, all the land to Cape George coniilh of elevated hills, gradually riling from the fea to a conliderabie height ; they were naked and barren, and their fuinmits capt with Inow. Not a vellige of a tree or Ihrub was to be feen. Some of the low land about Cape Digby Teemed to be covered with a green tuif, but a conliderable part of it appeared quite naked. I'enguins, and other oceanic birds, were nu- merous on the beaches, and fhags innumerable kept flying about our (hips. Defirous of getting the length of Cape George, Capt. Cook continued to llretch to the S. till between ieveii and eight o'clock ; when, feeing no probability of ac- complifhing his defign, he took the advantage of the wind, which had ihifted to W. S. W. (the diredion in which we wanted to go) and flood away from the coaft. Cape George now bore S. ^^ d. W. diftant about feven leagues. We law no land to the S. of it, except a fmall ifland that lies off the pitch of the Cape ; and a S. W. fwell, which we met wlien we brought the Cape to bear in this diredion, ahnoil convinced us tliat there was no more in that quarter. The French difcoverers imagined Cape Francois to be the projeding point of a fouthern continent. T^e Englifli have dilcovered that no Aich continent exifts, and that the land in qucflion is an ifland of fmall extent ; which, from its fterility, might properly be called the Ifland of Defolation ; but Captain Cook was unwilling i to rob Monfieur de Kerguclen of the honour of its bear- ing his name. Mr Andcrfon, who, during the fliort time we lay in Chriflmas CI col tic s: >h| te] afr pe^ ilV( femi fpn CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 33 Chrlftmas ILiiNour, loft no opportunity of ftMrchlng the country in every diredlion, relates the following par- ticulars. No place, fays he, hitherto difcovered in either hemlf- phere, aflbids fo fcanty a field for the naturalift as this ilerile fpot. Some verdure, indeed, appeared when at a fmall dlftance from the fliore, which might rail'e the ex- pelants, though it materially diiTered irom the whole tribe. When eaten raw, it was not un- like the New Zealand fcurvy-grafs ; but when boiled, it acquired a rank flavour. At this time, none of its feeds were ripe enough to be brought home, and intro- duced into our Englilh kitchen-gardens. Near the brooks and boggy places were found two other fmall plants, which were eaten as fallad ; the one like garden crefies, and very hot ; and the other very mild : the latter is a curioiity, having not only male and female, but alfo androgynus plants. Some coarfe grafs grew pretty plentifully in a few fmall fpots near the harbour, which was cut down for our catde. In (hort, the whole catalogue of plants did not exceed eighteen, including a beautiful I'pecies of lichen, and feveral forts of mof's. Nor was there the ap- pearance of a tree or flirub in the whole country. Among the animals, the moll ccnfiderable were feals, which were diftinguilhed by the name of fea-bears ; being the Ibrt that are calleil the urline feal. Ihey come on lliore to rcpofe and breed. At that time they Vol. XL— N° 27, E were £ 34 CArXAIM COOIC's Tlllllt) VOYAGE. were fheddinpj tlie'r bnr, ?,'vi in rctnirkably tame, that there was no ciifiir.Milty in kiilinp; them. No oil'.cr qundniped w,iq Iccn ; hi.t a great numhcr of oceanic birch, as (Hick?, Iha;;"^, |?etrel.s, i^c:. The (kids were fomewhr^t like av/idi^eon, both in (ire and ligure ; a confukrablc number of thcin were killed and eaten : tlicy were excellent food, and had not the Icail firtiy taQe. The Cape petrel, the fmail blue one, and tlie finall black one, or Mother Gary's chicken, were not in plenty here ; but another fort, v/hi motives Ihc tended to •o- . n;oatf uciign, bei them ; wh if they flio foon hcc "n it is probal tie could n favages, as place. We were dead calm, Cook, the: grai.s as ul* himfclf. joined us, c his deformi and the feei ever, we coi faw differed of the hair, cf this dUi firft voyagf^ of the kaiij. CAPTAIN COOK'S TIIIRD VOYAGE. 39 of twenty yards ; but, after feveral eflays, he was ftiil great I ^^'i'«^^ ^^ ^'^^ mark. Or* li, to Ihew the great fuperiority d wel^^^^^^* '''^''^^P^"^> inimrdiately fired hb mufquet at it, )k€n.|'^^^'^^'^ unexped:ed nolfe fo alarmed them, that they ran tj^gyliiito the woods, with luicommon fpeed ; and one of they lame itch- rved ^e cf f the men ilace. none ad a JlinR : and t en- le in •tsof , nor •ary, heir 1 a and Hfed •ent ?me ey ave ing ley Fry ick to im them waf? fo terrified, that he let fall two knives and an axe whicli he had received from us. ^i hey then went to the pla/e where the crcv/ of the Dii'covery were wa- terintij ; but the officer of that party firing a mufquet in ihe air, they fled with great precipitation. Immediately afteiuhey had retired. Captain Cook or- dered the, two pigs, one a male and the other a female, to be carried about a mile within the woods, and he himfelf fiw them left there, taking care that none of the natives Ihould ohfervc what was palFmg. He ah'b in- tended to have left a young bull and a cow, befides •'o- . -roats and fneep-j but he foon relinqui{l:ietl that uciign, being of opinion that the natives would deftroy them ; which he fuppofed would be the fate of the pigs, if they fliculd chance to find them out. But as fwinc foon became wild, and are fond of being in the woods, it is probable that they v/c^re prefervcd. The other cat- tle could not have remained long concealed from the favagcs, as they mull have been put into an open place. We were prevented from failing on the 29th by a dead calm, which continued the whole day. Captain Cook, the :eror% fent parties on (hore to cut wood and gral.s as ui\ ' , i,nd he accompanied the wooding party himfelf. 80'. n after our landii^.g, about twenty of then\ joined us, one oi whom was diftingullhed not only by his deformity, but by the drollery of his geilicularions, and the feeming huiour of his fpreches, which, how- ever, we could not underhand. Thofe whom we now faw differed in fome rcfpects, ijarticuiariy in the textui'e of the hair, from the natives of the more northerly parts cf this c ;;uitry, whom Captain Cook met wlrh in his firft voyage 3ome of our prcfcnt company had a flip of the kan^ooroo fliin round their ancles ; and others wore m CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. ^ wore round their necks fomc imall cord, made of fur. They feemed not to value iron, but were apparently . pleafed v/ith the medals and beads that were given them. They did not even appear to know the ufe of h(h- hooks, though it is more than probable, that they were - acqiiainted with fome method of catching fifh. • Their habitations were fmall hovels or fheds built of 'flicks, and covered with the bark of trees. We had alfo good reafon to fuppofe, that they fometimes took up their refidenee in the trunks of large trees, hollowed out by lire. Captain Cook, on leaving the wooding party, went to the grafs cutters, and having feen the boats loaded with hay,. returned on board. He had juft quitted the fhore, when fevc , ' ^^ ^men and children appeared, and were introduced t». iCU tenant King by the men who accompanied them. Thefe females wore a kangooroo fkin fa^ened over their Ihoulders, the only ufe of which feemed to be, to fupport their children on their backs, for it left thoi'e parts uncovered which modeHy direds us to conceal. Their bodies were black, and marked with fears like thofe of the men ; from whom, how- ever, they differed in having their heads fhavcd ; fome of them being completely Ihorn, others only on one fide, while the reft of them had the upper part of their heads ihaved, leaving a very narrow circle of hair all round. They were far from being handfome ; however, fome of ourgendemen paid their addreflcs to them, and made liberal offers, but without effed. In the afternoon Captain Cook went again on fhore, and found the grafs cutters on Penguin Ifland, where they had met wath excellent grafs in the greatelt abun- dance. The different parties laboured hard till the even- ing, and then, having provided afufficient quantity of what was moft wanted, returned on board. During our continuance in Van Diemen's Land, we had either light airs from the £. or calms : we therefore loft litde or no time by touching on this coaft. This land was difcovered in November, 1642^ by Tafxian, who tal fol iai th( hill wl thel Its ml hi a nee and dria Ther at the byth fand inga out of trout. are an ble by land, ai fifts of This CO ing ver neral be fand-fto vegetabi reft-tree they bea plants \{ weed, be of fern. Jpecits o The kan] Vol. II., ie offiir. >parently en them. of hih- ley wer built of tVe had les took ollowed % went loaded tted the :d, and ;n who ^ooroo which backs, direds larked how- fome e fide, heads Dund. fome made 'he name o. a confintr"T^"'V' 1"-'' ^' A£S T-his country, Upon the wK k" °'^'' S^X tough caft 42 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. lanil, may alio h^ fuppofeJ to inhabit here, as Tome of the inhabitants h?n.\ pieces of the Ikiii of that animal. -^' The principal forts of birds in the woods are brown havs'ks or eagles, crows, large pigeons, yellowish paro- quets, and a fpecies which we called motdcilla cyanca. ironi the beautiful azure colour of its head and neclf. On the lliore were fcveral gulls, black oylter-catchers, or fea-pies, and plovers of a (lone colour. We oblerved in the woods fome blackiili fnakes that were pretty large, and we killed a lizard which was fif- teen inches long and fix round, beautifully coloured with yellow and black. Among a variety of fifli we caught fome large rays, narfes, leather-jackets, bream, foles, flounders, gurnards, and elephant-hill ; beiidcs a fore which we did not re- collect to have feen before, and which partakes of the nature both of a round anil a flat fifli. Upon the recks are mufcles and other (hell-fini ; and upon the beach we found fome pretty Medufa's head?. The mort trou- blefome inft els we nut with were the mul-quitoes, and a large black ant, who(e bite inflidls extreme pain. The inhabitants feemed mild and chearful, with little of that wild appearance that favages in general have* They are almoll total! v devoid of perfonal a '"rgeft r^:^;' '"'^ ""-T 'md ll.e.'e,rere Ju "!,°'''°"s ''agitation. Ti ""''"^ '^O"'- «f- Thcfi 'i'/"""^. «'hich four or ^I " r''" "'''''"^ ^r^'n the fame ftn% • u " ^^^mcn's Lan.? . • • ?f the ifland of tI "'"'' greatly re'emb e th'";^ "^'"^ Jhave come fro^ W.? -°''"S' ^'^at they mtv •'"•^"^n * J"'e Pacific CW,''"i. '""'« P'^ce with^aJ; r/ ""S'nally |fo".id rr"anV? " " ^"■■' "f =bout ten »n }^ "'""« oi" . r»''eife: t le firftN !"''*''" '''at of New 7»f "^^'^ '" I . ■^na tue third »wW^. Tim 1 ^•'^°"'' "'"-f-^a'. Fa "e remaiuder of our icant/ 44 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. fcanty vocabulary of Van Diemen's Land is as fol- lows, viz. Quadncy a woman. Eve'rai, the eye. Muidje, the nofe. Ka'my, the teeth, mouthy or tongue, Liie'renne) afmall birdf living in the woods here. Koy'gee, the ear. Tcegera, to eat. Np'onga, elevated fears on the body. Toga'rago, / will go, or / mujl he gong. It will probably be founds upon a diligent enquiiv, and an accurate comparifon drawn from tne affinity l)f languages, that all the people from New Holland, eait- ward to Eafter Ifland, are of the fame extradion. Cour/el extra^ of th CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 4^ Cmrfe to New^Zealand'-'Tran/adiom in ^uecn Charkties Sound — Inter courfi with the New Zealanders — -Their Dexterity in building Huts^^lnformation with regard to the Majfacre of Captain Furneauxs People — -Two violent Storms^^Account of Kahoora^ who headed the Party thai killed our People^^Of the two Touths who accompany us on Board — Captain Cook^s Obfervdt'tons on the InhabUants of New Zealand, ON the 30th of January, in the morning, we weigh* ^d anchor with a Jight wefterly breeze, from Ad- venture Bay. Soon after we had put to iea, the wind became foutherly, and produced a perfect Aorm ; but veering in the evening to the E. and N. E. its fury be- gan to abate. This wind was attended with almofl in- tolerable heat, which, however, was of fo ftiort a cokiti- nuance, that fome of our company did not perceive it. In the night, between the 6th and 7th of February, one of the Difcovery's marines fell overboard and was drowned. On the 'oth, in the afternoon, we defcried the coaft of New Zealand, at the diftance of eigh: or nine leagues. We then (leered for Cape FareweU, and afterwards for Stephen's Ifland ; and in the morning of the 1 2th, anchored in Ship Cove, Queen Charlotte's Sound. We foon after landed many empty water- caiks,' and cleared a place for two oofervatories. In the mean time feveral canoes came along-iide of our Ihips ; but very few of thofe who were in ihem would venture on board. This fhynefs appeared the more extraordinary, as Captain Cook was well known to all of them I aud as one Qian ui particular among the pre- fent CAPTAm COOK'. THrrvD VOVAGE. 4*5 ^ ^ --*iAvi^ vuYAGE. *■ JnouKi not moleft them on ,{Z "^""""P. -ifl that h^^ f Me all appearance ^^^^'^'P^ '•j^Vfi^on laij 4-'>-r--e pitched (WO ten , w ,:'"1 !!^''",'"- ^''^ "est . ncs, m which Me(i; Kin^ an 1 ''^-'^ 'K "Tervato. wen were employed in hre«.?n r""*' ^ ^^^ "f our others filled the wrter.c."fe coI)l>?r"'%^'?^'-' "''"'e tie, and cut wood. Thofe' who^ ^■'^*"'' '^^ eat- v.erc occupied i„ reP.aW.he H.l--'"''''"'-"'^. °" ''°*''l 'Pg the nocefiiry auty of thi fl,inf "a^' ^"'^ P^>^°rm- '•"«* ^^as appointed /or ti>c nro 'f^: ^ f^f^ "f wa- pames on Aore, and ar,„ Ce '1 "" °^ ' ,>e different jnen, to repel all attacks f^omthe^n,,• '° 'l". ''"= ^^orJc- fchJct^" to .„,« us,l,iflC3K.Jcy^had w"luJ;ro'? tfeSft'^''' T-^'----'- can^c o'ofe to our encampment Thef/r '^'"^^^^ «'eir hws >u:fd fhe/b temporaw h?a!,;r;l"'.''"y "'"" ^'hich th"v have been feen^o erTfl abo,^';^^ '^/^-bble. The^ "f grounc.-, which was cov'ered l^I^ °. ^^""^ "" a fpot not an hour'before. Can ain r i" ^'""^8 and ftrZ th~t^ ^!'ey had no fooner Jeani^ f, "",^5^ of this »hi,n the-/ tore up the Cinihf J?^- ^i"" the canoes taey had feed upon, or n't 'tf P""'" ^"""^ *« ?.-o und tribe were i were i to a g< to thci that lu he ecu it, beca occafio headed pie. I men, i( to kill I bation ( of the ( red to \j rolicitcd Capta for graft the S. V no inhal marks oj palifades iefl vcftij CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGi'. 47 'tribe or f-imily, however lar^e, generally afTodate and builtl to{!;ethtr ; I'o \\ut their towns antl villa^^es :irj ulli- ally divkled by pulii'aties into feparatc dillricls. \Vc received conriderihleadvantati^e from the n:it*ves coming to live with ms; for, every day, fame of ihtni \\ ere occupied in catching filh, a good Oinic (1 wliicli we generally procured by exchanges. Befides iith, we had other refreilmients in abundance. Scurvy-j^raf^ celery, and portable foup, were btjiled every day witti the wheat and peafe ; and we had I'pruce beer for cv.i' drink. Such a regimen foon removed all leeds of th-e fcurvy from our people, if any of them had contiv.iftei ir. But indeed, on cur arrival here, we had only tvv^o invalids in both Ihips. We were occalionally vifited by othernatives, befKlrr, thofe who lived clofe to us. Their articles of trafiie were fifi),curiolities, and women; thetwofirftofv»'hich were fpcedily dlfpofed of, but the lallcr did not come to a good marker, as our crew had conceived a dillike to them. Captain Cook obferves upon this occaiion, that he connived at a connedlion with women, bccaufo he could not prevent it ; but thit he never cncourciged ir, becaufe he dreaded its confcqucnce?. Among our occafional viiitors was a chief called Kahoora, who headed the party that cut cff Captain Furneaux's peo- ple. He was far from being beloved by his coimtry- men, fome of whom even imporlu'ned Captain Cook to kill him, at the fame time expnlling their difoppro* bation of him in the fevered terms. A Itriking proo[ of tlie divifions that prevail among thefe people occur- red to us ; for the inhabitants (^f each village, by turns, folicitcd our Commodore to deftroy the other. Captain Cook, on the I5t.b, went in a boat tofearcli for grafs, and vifited the hippah, or foriified village, at the S. W. point of the illand of Motuara. lie obicrved no inhabitants at this village, though there were evident marks of its having been lately occupied, the houfes and palifades being in a ftate of good repair. Net the fmal- left veftige remained of the Engflh garden- feeds w hich had 4« CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. had been planted at this hippah in 1775, during Capt. Cook's fecond voyage. They had probably been all rooted out to make room for buildinpp ; for, at the other gardens then planted, we found radlQies, onions, leeks, cabbages, purflain, potatoes, dec. Though the natives of New Zealand are fond of the laft- mentioned root, tliey had not planted a (ingle one, much lefs any of the other articles we had introduced among them. ^ Early in the morning of the i6rh, the Captains Cook and Clerke, and feveral of the officers and failors, ac- companied by Omai and two New Zealanders, fet out in five boats, to colleifl fodder for the cattle. Having proceeded about three leagues up the Sound, they land- ed on the eaft fide, where they cut a fufficient quantity of grafs to load the two launches. On their return down the Sour.d, they paid a vifit to Grafs Cove, the place where Captain Furneaux's people had been maflacred. They here met with Captain Cook's old friend, Pedro, who is mentioned by hmi in the hiftory of his fecond voyage. He and another New Zealander, received them on the beach, armed with the ijpear and patoo, though not without uianifeft figns of fear. Their ap- prehenfions, however, were quickly diffipated by a few prefents, which brought down to the Ihore two or three others of the family. During th- continuance of our party at this place, the Commodore, being delirous of enquiring into the par- ticular circumftances relative to the maflacrc of our countrymen, fixed upon Omai as an interpreter for that purpofe, as his language was a diale(fi or that of New Zealand. Pedro, and the other natives who were pre- fent, none of whom had been concerned in that unfor- tunate tranfa£tion, anfwered every queftion without re-| ferve. Their information imported, that while our peo- ple were at dinner, fonie of the natives ftole, or fnatch- ed from them, fome fi(h and bread, for which offence they received fome blcws ; a quarrel immediately en- fued, and two of the favages were fliot dead, by the only two inufquets thai were fired ; for, before a third was dif- i;"!.^. . ring Capt. '■ been all t the other ons, leeks, he natives •ncd root, »ny of the ijns Cook ilors, ac- •8, Tet out Having ley land- quantity rn down he place aflacred. , Pedro, I fecond received patoo, ieir ap- y afew 3r three '/>ot where t w,"'^ V""* a""o pointe f '^^^ '■•"• fne boat lav ; A''"' ''appencd %^5 fi' °"' 'he verv had been ^e "cT'r^ ' wS^^San^of ^= ^'^ ^-h^'c^ Ser4'£'W P^^^^^^^^ - «"^ oc. « Tome dirtance ;■ "•'" ^"ntrynien ?,!^ • "" ? ^''°'ent =l!<-''y attacked omT'S'r'' '"e ^.^.Tk"||,•^""f .'"' cries the boat or nr^ ^"^P^"^ who. hefnr , ' ""'' "nmedi- 'fi'au/t. fe» i^'^t''-''.'? fhemfe/ve a^a^nV ^ "^""'^ --each lavage,;. ' '«^"''ce to tiie fu^ of , '' ""'^pPcfled ^ l^he former of ,). r «afperated -fieTlL^dtT^^^^^^^^^^^^ •s. and who tL f"'''>'^"^thefakeof ■> -"^ Zealander, happened while th^" ^'^^'hey all agreed ,iw°uhe "n- ,'he accounts mLl ^°'' « ^rew we?e nf i- ^' 'he fray • haWe, that Jh?.^'-^ "■"«; for it iX^ '''""«'■. hoth ofhers miVlu foj/ . "^ea left tr, ^ V^^^ealinxr /hore. '^'"'"'^^^^-'hbcnywg/aSoi^ '°^^' , , ^f appears, that ,h ' ^'='"*= °n pieces and bi.i-n>- . ^^ "'d. that it L^ ^^- *^ith carried offbv'"'' ^hde others a/Ter ed 1 ^-'f""^'' to 0"r part7con'^;n? f^'^'^S^r, ' "'^'"had been f d ti.en en'^lSed Jn*^ -" ^''^'^ Cove ,i!i tb, . f«rce/y left the ftl ° ''""'•" to the ft ' '''V^" "?' Voi. U. N« ,: "'°'^*-' when, the w-d b'. ^^. had • ^'- G —d "«^gan tab.'ow vioM'- I* CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. \ioIenily at N. W. lb tliat it was not without difficulty that they cv..uld reach the (hipK,where feme of the hosts did not arrive till the next morning ; a:^J it was very tbrtnnafe ihar they got on hoard then, for foon after- wards a perfetfl ilorm arofe. Towards the evenings however, the wind veering to the li. irought en fair weather. On Tuefday the i8th, Pedro and his whole family came to rcfide near us. 1 he jn'opcr name of tbis chief was IVIatahouah ; but fome of Captain Cock's people had given him the appellation of Podrc in a fornAcr voyage. On the 20th we had anotiier ftorm, of lefs duration than the former, but more violent ; in confc- quence of whtch, both our (hips flruck their yards and top-iiafls. Tlicfe tempefls are frequent here; and the nearer tlie (here, the mere fenlible *rc their effed:!\ On Friday the 2 1(1, a tribe or family of about thirry perfonr. came from tlie upp^r part of the Sound to vifit us. Their chitf was named Tomatongeauooranuc : he was about ihe age of forty-iive, and h:\d a frank, chear- ful countenance ; and indeetl the reft: of his tribe were^ upon the whole, the handfomefl of all the New Zea- hmders that Captain Cook had ever feen. By this time ir.'wards of two thirds of the natives of Queen Char- lotte's Sound had fettled near us, numbers of whom daily refjrted to the mips, and our encampment on Ihore; but the latter was moft mquented, during the time wh -n our people there were making ferd blubber ; for the favages were fo fond of train oil, that they rclilh- cd the very dregs ofthccafl^s, and ikimmings of the kettle, r.nd confidered the pure flinking oil as a moll de- lightful feaft. V/hen v/e had procured a competent fupply of hay, wood, and water, we ftruck our tents, and the next morning, which was the 24th, weighed Out of the Cove. But the wind not being fo fair as we could Iiave wiflied, we were obliged to caft anchor again near the Ifle of Motuara. While we were getting under fail, Toma- tongeauooranuc, Matahouah, and many others of the natives, nari havi foTi two goat! to d( Furn that t ed, b with Bef vera! ( carrie( this pi Omai folicitc be him pay U! little in the ne> Iv. O] fioii to the cabi fearing former 1 foon, he was unli on tlie ii f'n^ljnd killed ter argumcn Co'nm V la:i 1 cfde; people; ; do'.vn his tat; on of i iurjd of CAPI'AIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 51 nariv^p, came to take leave of us. Thefe two chiefs liaving reqiiefted Captain Cook to prefent them with fo-nc hogs a.nd goats, he fijave to Tomatoiigeauooraiiuc two pigs, a hoar and a ibw ; and to Matahouah two goais» a male and female, after tliey had promiled not to deflroy them. As for the animals, which Captain Furneaux had left here, Captain Cook was now tol.^ that they were all dead ; but he was afterwards inform- ed, by the two N^w Zealand yout'-.s who went away with us, that Tiratoe, a popular chief, had in his pol- fcmon marly cocks and hens, bei'il^s a few. Before we had been long at anchor near Motu-ira, fe- veral canoes, filled wi'h natives, came towards u.^, and carried on a brifl;:, trade wirh them for the ciiriofitics-cf this place. In one of thefe canoes was Kahoora, whom Omai immediately pointed out to Captain Cook, and folicited him to ihoot that chief: he alfo threatened to be himfelf his executioner, 'f he {hou'd ever prefiinie to pay us another vifir. Thefe menaces of Omai had fo little influence upon Kahoora, that he returned to us the next morning, accompanied with his whole fami- ly. Omai, having obtained Caj)t.rr.i Cook's permif- fion to aik him to come on bovrd, introduced him into the cabi!\, *' There is Kahoora ; dlfpatch him." But,' fearing perhaps th it he (hould be called upon to put his former tlvreato in execution, he inllantly retired. He fjon, however, returned ; and pe:*ceiving tliat the chief was unhurt, lie earnellly rcmonilrated to Captain Cook on tlie i\il>;e(£t, laying, tluit if a man killed another in En^lmd, he u'as hnigcd i\K it; but that Kahoora had killed ten, and tuercl'orc pility dcTerved deafn. Thefe arguments, hc;v.'':;ver p!.»Li;ib!'*, hid no weight v>7ith o\ii* Co'um "^dofe, Who doiircd Omai to ad' tlie New Z^a- Lr.rl cliief, why lui had d-jtlroy-'d Captain Furneaux's people ; Kahoora, ciinfoanded a": tliis quefVion, hung down his head, iblded bis arms, aiid feemod in expec- tation of immedia:c iica'^h : but, as foon as he v/as aT- . [urjd of fufety, lie became che ufiifl. He appeared, G 2 how- 52 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. however, unwilling to anfwer the queftion which had been put to him, till after repeated promlfes that no vio- lence fhould be offered to him. He then ventured to inform us, that one of the natives having brought a ftone hatchet for the purpofc of traffic, the perfon to whom it was offered took it, and relufed either to re- turn it, or give any thing in exchange ; upon which the owner of it feized fome bread by way of equivalent ; '.nd this gave rife to the quarrel that enfued. He alio mentioned, that he himfelf, during the difturbatice, had a narrow efcape ; for a mulquet was levelled at him, which he found means to avoid by fkulking behind the boat ; and another man, who happened to fland clofe to him, was fhot dead : upon which Kahoora at- tacked Mr Rowe, the officer who commanded the par- ty, who defended himfelf with his hanger, with which he gave the chief a wound in the arm, till he was over- powered by fuperiority of numbers. Mr Burney, whom Captain Furneaux difpatched the next day with an arm- ed party in fearch of his people who were mifling, had, upon difcovering the melancholy proofs of this cata- ftrophe, fired feveral vollies among the natives who were flill on the fpot, and were probably partaking of the horrid banquet of human flcih. It was reafonable tofuppofe that this firing was not ineffedual ; but upon enquiry it appeared, that not a lingle perfon had been I:illed, or even hurt, by the fhot which Mr Burney'a people had difcharged. Moft of the natives we had met with, expeded that Captain Cook would take vengeance on Kahoora for his concern in the maifacre ; and many of them not onl)^ wifljed it, buWteftified their furprife at the Cap- tain's forbearance and moderation. As the chief muft have known this, it v/as a matter of alloniflunent that he fo often put himfelf in the power of our Commo- dore. His two lail vilirs, in {)articular, were made un- der fuch circumfiances, that he could not have flattered himfelf with a profpedl of efcaping, had the Captain I been fears, from the ca [his o^^ ber ha [of im| and wi in him [ declara [friend fentime wife; t treatmei happens [ture to I IreftafTur Before Inreffcd a Iliis own ( tifying hi Jthe only ] llum, and Icaufed it i Ithat if tU Jturn. TI] (day before Jcame to re IfaJTie eveni p the tend ]no more, i lorning, \ ffavveiharoi :mained ( Psrn. A b( CAPTAIN COOK'. THIRD VOYAGE ,oeen inclined to H^f,;., i.- S3 'fears, on being que^o„i!{'"h^ f AX?' ^^en his firfl from antettaininS^I-eSfation^/^^ ^far wasg the cabin a portrait ofa Mew 7 r 'S*^*' »" feeing in his own likenefs might be tT..?^^''"'^^^' *»« defiredfha^ ber.had fini^ed hisWrdt wt> ""^^Z^' '=" ^r Web- wife; that he ftould think nn^°" 9 ^^^^^ othS! treatment of our count vmen ^°\°^ '^^'^ b=«rbarou8 happened long ago • bu^'^^^"' ■"/ '^^' franfadion S Mc to makea fecond ,f;,.i^"; 'f they ftould ever ven 'reft aflbred of mSg w 7ant^' ^''^' ^^^ St I yore our aiTival ,Vn,L 7^ I ''"/^^P"n'fl>ment: preflbdadefireoftakingonroffr""''' O^ai had ex- Ins own country. He Ion h^^ """'^"^ *'* him to t-fymg his inclination for, f " opportunity of wa ;!?e only fon of a dece'aSd ch°f '' ff "1"^ T^awcSot ""n, and took up his rdiden^A^^'"'''.^" accompany caufed It to be marie known t^ v ^''"^- Cap^ O urn. This dedaratinn hr. \ ^^ would never r^ day before we qS° I.'e 00^?' ^"^ "° ^ffea'^-n:; Jcame to receive her laft nref/' f "'""'C"' '"^ mother K.e eveping (he and h .S " i'- ™ •^"?/ ' ^"^ the-' ' N more, and faitiifullv -r7.f'i ^"'^ *« ^^0"ile li having ailvcd them, whether they ea'- the flelh of luch w\ ^^P^^-j friends as had loit their lives in war, but w -->!c bodies W^^ ^^^^ ' had been prevented from falling into iheen^jiny's harrh, ■ the watt they vas praC iirion. lim if I vening, le impo )arlngly Notv/ir leople llv lourable, xpe(fbed iilinefs n I'hich the (lus, tha lace whi( Iharlotte'f nprobahl that it ig in the CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. S5 hey anfwered in the negative, and expreffed their ab- lorrence of the idea. Their ordinary method of difpofing of.^their dead is commit their bodies to the earth ; but when they lave more of their flain enemies than they can conX-e- r.;cntly eat, they throw them into the fea. There are 10 mormsy or other places of public worftiip among [hem ; but they have priefts, who pray to the gods for he fuccefs of their temporal affairs. The principles of heir religion, of which we know but little, are llrong- y inftilled into them from their infancy. We obferved remarkable inftance of this in a youth, who abftained rom eating during- the greateft part of the day, merely [id chil- "^ account of his hair being cut, though every method i^ing m e great )mc, at ; under ly each ik, ilif- iiey are :hat the tement. in the iiardcd, iVithout L mafla- >r carry in them ity. If execute f again, by the \'as pradlifed that could induce him to change his refo- iition. He faid that the eatooa, or deity, would kill lim if he eat any thing on that day. Towards the Tcnlng, however, his religious fcruples gave way to he importunate cravings ot appetite, and he ear, though paringly. Notwithftanding the divided ftate in which thefe auar- >^ople live, travelling ilrangers, whofe defigns are ho- h triiO lourable, are well received and entertained ; but it is e netual |^F}^^^<^ ^^^^^ ^'^'^7 "^^^^ remain no longer than their " 'iiliners requires. It is thus that a trade for green talc, hich they call pccnammno^i^ carried on. They inform- us, that none of this Hone is to be found, except at a lace w^hith bears its name, near the head of C)ncen harlotte's Sound. Wc were told many fabulous and probahle ftories concerning this (lone, one of which that it is originally a filh, which they llrike with a foul' of B';^ "^^ ^^^^ water, and having tied a rope to it, drag it to at flew i''"^ ^^^o^^» ^^ "^vhich they fallen it, and it afterwards har- latural t'*^'' '*'^^*'-' '^ Hone. As it is fifhed out of a large lake, it is QjQJ^Bobahle that it may be brought from the mountains, , )f fuch W^ dcpciiied in the water, by means of the torrents. bodies l''^^ ^'^^^ ^^ called by the inhabitants ''favai roemimmoo^ u'',.,,{oB the water of green talc. t^^ovl ^ lie It on, ce and d : and, ives to 1 body lat the CTilicS, s^ CAPTAIN COOKV THIRD VOYAGE. The New Zealanders have adopted polygamy among them ; and it is common for one man to have two or three wives. The women are ripe for marriage at aa early age ; and thofe who are unmarried, find diflicuU ty in procuring fubfiftance* Thefe people feem perfedly contented with the fmall degree of knowledge they polFefs, for they make no at- tempts to improve it. They are not remarkably curi- ous, nor do new objedls ftrike them with much furprife, for they fcarce fix their attention for a moment. Omai, indeed, being a ^reat favourite with them, would fome- times attradl a circle about him ; but they liftened to his Speeches with very little eagernefs. On our inquiring of Taweiharoo, how many fliips refemblirig ours, had ever arrived in Queen Charlotte's Sound, or in its neighbourhood, he gave us an account of one entirely unknown to us. This veflel, he faid, had put into a harbour on the N. W. coaft of Teera- witte, a few years before Captain Cook arrived in the | Sound in the Endeavour. He further informed us, that the Captain of her during his continuance here, had co- habited with a female of the country, who had borne | him a fon that was ftill living. He alfo mentioned, that this (hip firft introduced the venereal difeafe among the I natives of New Zealand; This dreadful diforder is now but too common among them. The only method they put in pradtice as a remedy, is to give the patient the ufe of a kind of hot bath, produced by the fteam of| certain green plants placed over hot ftones. Taweiharooa's intelligence induced us to believe, that! a fhip had really been at Teerawitte previous to Capt. Cook's arrival in the Endeavour, as it correfponded with what the Captain had formerly heard ; for, towards! the latter end of J 773, fome of the natives informedl him of a (liip's having put into a port on the coaft ofl Teerawitte. [ We had another piece of information from Taweiha-I rooa, importing that there are here Inakes and lizardsl 01 GE. ;amy among laye two or rriage at a a ind difllcul- lany flilps Charlotte's CAPTAIN COOK'. THIRD vqyage or an enormoiiq fi7*» t-u i * 59 as being eight AnV^VnT'lTr ^'^'"^^ by him circumference. He S,M .t ? t' *° ^ ""an's body ia ground 5 that theVfom^;'^^^/^^ burrow i„ '^^h' ho rs. We could not nfifunderl^H^'?'™"?''."^" 'beir to the animal ; for, in order fnn;° ^'°J ^"b refpea he drew, with bis own hand it^'' "'."bat he meant, of a hzard and fnake oh a pie '^/T' «prefemations Though much has been /aM L P^P-^""- and Its inhabitants, in the accounTf ?? »'"^ '°^"^r two former vovaff« v«7i. ^"^^untf of Capta n Conf^ Vol. ir.--N» 2«. t H r^^ o CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 'M' The Country near ^ccn Charlotte s Sound defer ihed — Tho^ Fertility of the Soil — Temperature of the Climate — Rain and Winds — Plants — B:rds^*FiJh — Jnifnals — Defer iption of the Perfons of the Inhabitants — Drefs — Ornaments Buildings — Canoes or Boats — Food^ and Method of Cookery — Arts — Weapons — Horrid Cruelty to their Enemies^ ivhofe Bodies they tnangle and eat — Various other Cvjioms, ABOUT Queen Charlotte's Sound the land is un- commonly mountainous, rifing immediately from the fea into large hills. At remote diftances are vallies, terminating each lowards the fea in a fmall cove, with a pebbly or fandy beach ; behind which are fiat places, where the natives ufually build their huts. This fitua- tion is the more convenient, as a brook of fine water runs through every cove, and empties i' ^elf into the fea. The bafes of thefe mountains, towards the ihore, are conftituted of a brittle yellowifti fandy flone, which ac- quires a blewilh call where it is laved by the fea. At fome places it runs in horizontal, and, at others, in oblique ilrata. The mould or foil by which it is cover- ed refembles marie, and is in general a foot or two in thicknefs. The luxuriant growth of the productions here, fuf- ficiently indicates the quality of the foil. The hills, ex- cept a few towards the fea, are one continued foreft of loicy trees, fiouriihing with fuch uncommon vigour, as to afford an auguft profpedt to the admirers of the fu- blime and beautiful works of nature. This extraordinary ftrength in vegetation is, doubt- lefs, greatly affifted by the agreeable temperature of the % climate ; CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. $i I IS un- y from vallies, e, with : places, [is fitua- e water the lea. ore, are lich ac- ea. At xQXSy ill [^ cover- two in fere, fuf. .ills, ex- foreft of our, as the fu- douht- ic of the lUmate *, climate ; for at tliis time, though anrwerln^j to o^ir month of Auguft, the weather v/m not fo warm as to be difagreeable ; nor did it raife the thermometer higher • that 66 d. The winter ahb feems equally mild with refpecfl to cold ; for in the month which correfpond.'^ to our December, the mercury was never lower than 48 d. the trees at the fame time retaining their verdure, as if in the height of fummer. It is fuppofed their foliage remains, till puflied of in fpring by the fucceeding leaves. ^ Though the weather is generally good, It is fome- tlmes windy, with heavy rain ; which, however, is never excemve, and does not laft above a day. In fliort, this would be one of the finefl countries upon earth, were it not fo extremely hilly ; which, fuppofing the woods to be cleared away, would leave it lels pro- ]>er for pafturage than flat land ; and infinitely lefs fo tor cultivation, which could never be eflfeded here by the plough. • ^ ^ ^ ^ The large trees on the hills are principally of two forts. One of them, of the lize of our largeil firs, prows nearly after their manner. This fupplied the place of fpnice in making beer ; which we did, with a |aecod:ion of its leaves fermented with fugar or treacle ; and this liquor was acknowledged to belittle inferior to [American fpruce-beer. The other fort of tree is like a maple, and often grows very large, but is fit only for fuel ; the wood ojf that, and of the preceding, being (00 heavy for mails, yards, &c. A greater variety of tr^es grow on the flats behind the leach^s : two of thefe bear a kind of plumb, of the lize )t'prunes4 the one, which is yellow, is called karraca, |nd the other, which is black, called maitao ; but neither them had a pleafant tafte, though eaten both by our :ople and the natives. On the eminences which jut out into the fea, grows Ifpecies of philadelphus, and a tree bearing flowers al- |oit like myrtle. We ufed the leaves of the philadel- H 2 phus •"n;v-- 62 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. phu8 as tea, and found them an excellent fubftitute for the oriental fort. A kind of wild celery, which grows plentifully in al- moft every cove, may be reckoned among the plants that were ufeful to us ; and another that we ufed to call fcurvy-grafs. Both forts were boiled daily with wheat ground in a mill, for the people's breaklaft, and with their peafe-foup for dinner. Sometimes alfo they were ufed as fallad, or dreffed as greens. In all which ways they are excellent ; and, together with the iifh, with which we were amply fupplied, they formed a moft de- firable refrelhment. The known kinds of plants to be found here are! bindweed, night (hade, netdes, a fhrubby fpeedwell, fow-thiftles, virgin's bower, vanelloe, French willow, euphorbia, crane s-bill, cudweed, rufhes, bulrufhes, flax, all-heal, American night-fliade, knot-grafs, brambles,! eye-bright, and groundfel ; but the fpecifes of each aie| different from any we have in Europe. There are a great number of other plants, but one ir particular deferves to be noticed here, as the garment of the natives are made from it. A fine filky flax is proj duced from it, Aiperior in appearance to any thing w'< have in this country, and perhaps as ftrong. it growj in all places near the fea, and fometimes a confiderablj way up the hills, in bunches or tufts, bearing yellowii flowers on a long ftalk. It is remarkable, that the greateft part of the trees anJ plants were of the berry-bearing kind ; of which, anJ other feeds, Mr Anderfon brought away about thinj different forts. I The birds, of which there is a tolerable good fiocl| are almoft entirely peculiar to the place. It would difficult and fatiguing to follow them, on account of ill quantity of underwood, and the climbing plants ; yj any perfon, by continuing in one place, may fhooti many in a day as would lerve feven or eight perfoii The principal kinds are large brown parrots, with grj heads, green parroquets, large wood pigeons, and ti m lent CAPTAIN COOK'* THIRD VOYAGE. :ute for iy in Jil- ; plants d to call 1 wheat nd with ey were ch ways fh, with nioft de- here are jeedwell, willow, hes, flax, ^rambles, ' each are lut one in garments ax is pro. thing m it growi fiderabli yellowifl trees am |hich, anr )ut thirl) forts of cuckoos. A grois beak, about the fize of a thrufli, is frequent ; as is alfo a fmall green bird, which is almofl the only mufical one to be found here ; but his melody is fo fweet, and his notes fo varied, that any one would imagine himfelf lurrounded by a hundrcil different forts of birds, when the little warbler is ex- erting himfelf. From tliis circnmftance it was named the mocking bird. There are alfo three or four forts of fmaller birds, and among the rocks are found black fea-pies with red bills, and crefted fhags of a leaden co- lour. About the fliore, there arc a few fea-gulls, fonic blue herons, wild ducks, plovers, and fome fand-larks. A fnipe was fhot here, which differs but litde from thai of Europe. Mod of the fifh we caught by the feine were elephant fifh, mullets, foles, and flounders ; but the natives fup- plied us with a fort of fea-bream, large conger eels, and a fifh of five or fix pounds weight, called a mogge by the natives. With a hook and line we caught a blackifli filh, called cole-fifli by the feamen, but differing gready from that of the fame name in Europe. We alfo got a fort of fmall falmon,{kate, gurnards,and nurfcs. The na- tives f bmetimes furnifhed us with hake, paracutas, parrot fifh, a fort of mackarel, and leather jackets ; befides an^ other,which is extremely fcarce,of the Figure of a dolphin, a black colour, and ft rong bony jaws. Thefe in gene^ ral arc excellent to eat ; hiit the imall fahnon, cole-fifh, and mogge, are fuperior to the others. Great quantities of e^wcellent mufcles inhabit among the rocks ; one fort of which exceeds a foot in length. Many cockles are found buried in the fand of the fmall beaches ; and, in fome places, oyfters, which, though very fmall, have a good flavour. There are alfo pern- wincles, limpets, wilks, fea-eggs, flar-fifh, and fome beautiful fea-ears, many of which are peculiar to the place. The t^atives alfo furnifhed us wuh fopfie exceU lent cray^fifh. Infe<£ts here are not very numerous : we faw fome butterflies, two forts of dragon fiies, (o^x^q fmall grafsn hoppers, Sa CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. hoppers, feveral forts of fpiders, fome black ants, and fcorpion flies innumerable, with whofe chirping the woods reibunded. The fand fly, which is the onlyj noxoius one, is very numerous here, and is almolt a«' iliiagreeable as the mufquitoe. The only reptiles we f-wv here, were two or three forts of inofFenfive lizards. In this extenfive land, it is remarkable that there fiiould not even be the traces of ..ny quadruped, except a few ratcv, an.! a kind of fox dog, which is kept by the natives as a domeftic animal. They have not any mineral defervlng notice, but a green jafper or ferpent ftone, of wliich the tools and crnamcnts of the inhabitants arc made. This is held 111 high cfl:imation among them ; and they entertain fome fuperftitious notions about the mode of its gene- ration, which v/e could not comprehend : they fay it is taken from a large river fi\r to the ibuthward ; it is difpofed in the earth in detatched pieces like flints, and, like them, the edges are covered with a whitilh cruft. The natives in general are not fo well formed, efpe- dally about the limbs, as the Europeans, nor do they exceed them in ftature. Their fitting fo much on their hams, and being deprived, by the mountainous difpo* fition of the country, of ufing that kind of exercife which would render the body Itraight and well-propor- tioned, is probably the occafion of the want of due pro- portion. Many of them indeed are perfedly formed, and fome are very large boned and mufcular ; but few among them were corpulent. Their features are various, fome refembling Euro- peans, and their colour is of diiferent cafls, from a oeepifh black to an olive or yellowifli tinge. In gene- ral, however, their faces are round, their lips rather full, and their nofes, though not fiat, large towards the point. An aquiline nofc was not fecn among them : their eyes are large, and their teeth are commonly broad, white, and regular. Their hair in general is black, ftrong, and flraight j \y man the (he middle l>it, the ftones, I their co They I or wood I Both mc Ihiing be lliave the I We never la twig w pat it W2 Many , black oi [Jier this i kticul^r f^ts, and )ing the Jie onry;, Imoit as lies we iFenfive t there except by the but a )ls and s held fertain gene- fay it ; It is flints, hiti£h efpe- they their ifpo^ rcife por- pro- ned, few „ -^wh fee are cIm ^'■'" °^ fef, re "'^^^ made of ff.,. ri. '•'""led a/itp . .1, . ^'f'' a girdle nil'^ '?, again fhften.Ti r""'''"W''iicf, coats over this IJ^^^ ^^^tliers. ftCf. '['^ cover /i to the hccJs •{?f '"^"t, extending ff-*^ "f "'^m wear 'yma,,Mf,cjVd'^?'«lsy pl.nt above n,'?' '■''Wever the Aouldcr", whS!!"-^''/,° « «rw';"'«'«/°ned. b^^^ .'"■d''^ of the thTir' ,'(/*"" dovv,f of"1,";-''?"''' over ' wt, they cou/M h* ; /'^''en thev (if / ' "'^«'! to tiie ^"''<^»hr diSS '" ^ «-namenta) or """"'" '' '°- ^''"•■''^-'--nr;tred%™j;^^ tiieir . ' CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. t-heir lips and chins ; and both Texes befmear their head* and faces with a greafy reddifti paint. Tfie women al- io wear necklaces of (bark's teeth, or bunches of long beads ; and a few of them have fmall triangular aprons, adorned with feathers or pieces of pearl (hells, faftened about the waift with a double or treble fet of cords. They live in the fmall coves already mentioned, fometimes in llngle families, and fometimes in compa- nies of pe rhaps forty or fifty. Their huts, which are in general moft miferable lodging places, are built conti- guous to each other. The beft we faw was built in the manner of one of our country barn, md was about fix feet in height, fifteen in breadth, and thirty-three in lenj^th. The infide was ftrong and regular, well faften- . ed by means of withes, &c. and painted red and black. At one end it had a hole ferving as a door to creep out at, and another confiderably fmaller, feemingly for the purpofe of letting out the fmoke. This, however, ought to be confidered as one of their palaces, for many of their huts are not of half the fize, and feldom are more than four feet in height. They have no other furniture than a few fmall bags or bafkcts, in which the^ depofit their lifhing-hooks and other trifles. They lit down in the middle round a fmall fire, and probably -Oeep in the fame fituation, without any other covering than what they have worn in the day. Fiihing is their principal fupport, in which they ufe different kinds of nets, or wooden fi(h-hooks pointed with bene ; but made in fo extraordinary a manner, tliat it appears aftonilhing how they can anfwer fuch a purpofe. Their boats confifl of planks raifed upon each other, and faftened with ftrong withes. Many of them arc| fifty feet long. Sometimes they faften two togethe with rafters, which we call a double canoe : they fre quently carry upwards of thirty men, and have a larg head, mgenioufly carved and painted, which feems in tende is a fp be ab( iifh muj Son mk, Conj f00:i fub/ii plied Th whic/ their vermii of ftin eager!] o:iTy ei cotton Van thefe ni even w\ ^npc 'vilized il out the by whic] Vp]. u.l CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE *• tended to renrefent , „ ">:age. *^ fp'-t "f, and find a gelat&°/t= '^''^" ''^'^'^J- thev Soniefmes but not often '^^hev l? I ' f°^ °'^^'- ^h. "■Is, and ftags, which enabeiL/ ^^"^ Penguins, Widerable numbers of rW , '° ^^""y theifdiet /l hey areas filth v in rK/^Ir r v wh.ch often emit at " offeLS^f '■ H ^^''^ P«>-^on«. tuy ofgreafe about themS'f' "f r'^fr°«'- '^'- q"'"- their deaths; their heads art n^.v^n "=„^='" "'a'hinff vermtn which they Ibmet nes'^^Tt '^ ^"""^"^ ^'«^ ot ftmking train oil, and b'nhtr ^V r f^e quantities eagerly devour. When on h^ . u ^^^^ ^^^V would o^'lr emptied the lamps bi^?i "',? '^>'- 'W not cotton with equal voracftv Tl, "^"u'l '."'allowed the Van Diemen's Land would Iot°"^'' '''^ inhabitants of •hefe people devoured it wit^hr'" ""^l ""'^ ''^^ad. In S't "f" " '""^" and mi?"'"'^'* "S^-^''^> viiized nations 'S'li::;;^;''-''''" ""i "'^'"^d any unci- 0"t theaffifbnceot m';;, In T"""'™ dances : forf w?i^- h which thev urocr^ H •°?'>;';'-'y make every th ir^^ warlike weapo^^ht ''.S'",'^^^' f ''^'"ing a«1 Vpi. K^N" i8. "--"e-, ftrength, and conve- nieaec 6S CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. nience. Their principal mechanical tool is formed in the manner of an adze, and is made of the fcrpent- llone or jafper : their chifTcl and gouge arc furnilhed from the fame material, though they are fomctimes compofed of black folid Hone. Carving, however, ia their mafter-piecc, vt'hicli appears upon the mod trifling things : the ornaments on the heads of their canoes, not only difplay much dtfign, but execution* Their cor- dage for fifliing lines is not inferior to that i ruftfiil enture all dif- hefita- They thing pe de- 3 take article highly 1. is conw lation, ifgref- wn fa- lal de- l eini- Their I -.•-■•■v Thei: war is t number Their ai times flc made of eighteen han^lie r their pri about liv, ?i carved i-he other, Before tbe exa(fl to a frant: tprtions o deter thei ihat-is mo ture,w]iic not perfec cnfter roafti pleafure ai it might be capable tute of eve lofs of thei Tcdionate. their rclatic nilferable c in their chc itlim, till th', tears. Til i»r:ure, arul tlioie who ' ceremony c turn of afr; 'I'he prac. tlic childicn J CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 6^ Their public contentions are almofl perpetual, for ■war is their principal profeilion, as appears from their number of weapons, and their dexterity in ufnig them. I'heir arms are I'pears, patoos, and lialberts, and fome- times ftones. The firft are from five to thirty feet long, made of hard wood and pointed. The patoo is about eighteen inches long, of an elliptical fhape, with a hamlie made of wood, ftonc, &:c. and appears to be their principal depcndance in battle Tne halbtrt is about live or fix feet in lengdi, tapering at one end With a carved head, and broad or fiat, with fharp edges at the other. Before the onfet, they join in a war fong,. keeping the exaiSiefl; time ; and by degrees work themfclves ki- te a frantic fury, accompanied with the molt horrid dil^ tprtions of their tongues, eyes, and mouths, in order to deter their enem'es. To this fucceeds a circumltancQ that'is moll horrid^ cruel, iind difgraccful to human na- ture, which is mangling and cutting to pieces (even when not perfecdy dt'j.il) the bodies of their enemies ; and, after roafting them, devouring the ilefli with peculiar pleafure and fatisfactlon. It might naturally be luppofed, that thofe who could be capable of fuch excefs ot cruelty, mufi: be totally defli- tute of every humane feeling ; and yet they lament the lofs of their friends in a manner the moil tender and at- fcd:ionate. Both men and women, upon the death of their relations or friends, bewail them with the molt iiilferable cries ; at the lame time cutting large gafhes in their checks and foreheads, with ("hells, or pieces of Hint, till tli'j blood flows copioully, and mixes with their tears. Tiicy alio carve a rcfemblance of an human hf»;ure, arul I-ang it about their necks, as a memorial of thofe who were dear to thciv.. They alfo perform the ceremony of lamenting and cutfing for joy, at the re- turn of a friend who has been fome time abfent. 'I'he pradliccs of the lathers, whether good or bad, the cliiklLcn are at an early a.^c inltrudcd in 5 ib that \ i you "WPPP '1* CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. you find a child of either fex, of the age of nine 6r ten, years, able to imitate the frightful motior-S and geftures of the men. They alfo fmg, and with Ibme degree of melody, the traditions and adiions of their forerathers, with which they are immoderately delighted, and pafs much of their tiilie in thefe amufements, accompanied fometimes with a kind of fiute. Their language is neither harfli nor difagreeablc. Whatever qualities are requifite to make a language mufical, obtain to a confiderable degree in this, if we may judge from the melody of their fongs. It is not, indeed, lo cortiprehenfive as our European languages, which owe their perfedlion to long and gradual im- provement. Cour/i on i the his The C^urfi T^W CAPTAIN COOX's THIRD VOYAGE, 7» CourfeoftheVo'jage — Behaviour of the iwoNcwZcaland llouihs, on board — The IJland of Mangeea dif covered — Account of the Perfons and Drefs of th£ Inhabitants — Mourooa and his Companion defcribed — Figure of a Mangecan Canoe. — TheCoaJi of the [/land examined — ImpradiicabiHty of land^ ing — Tranfa^ions with the Natives — Defcriptioi; of the IJland — Dijpojition and Manners cf the Mangeeans, IN the morning of the 25th of February, we left the Sound, and made fail through Cook*s Straits. On the 27th, Cape Pallifer bearing W. about feven leagues diilant, we had a fine gale, and fteered towards the N. E. As foon as we had loft fight of land, our two young New Zealanders heartily repented of the adven- turous flep they had taken. Though we endeavoured, as far as lay in our power, to footh them, they wept l^th in public and private ; and gave vent to their for- rows in a kind of fong, which feemed to exprefs their praifes of their country and people, from which they were now in all probability to be for ever feparatea. They continued in this flate for feveral days, till at length the agitation of their minds began to fubfide, and their fea-ficknefs, which had aggravated their grief, wore off. Their lamentations then became lefs and lefs frequent ; their native country, their kindred and friends, were gradually forgotten, and they appeared tQ be firmly attached to us. On the 28th at noon, being in the latitude of 41 d, 17 m. S. and in the longitude of 177 d. 17 m. E. we tacked about and ftood to the S. E. with a gentle breeze ^t E, N. E. which afterwards veered to N. E. in wliich point ^ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. fty o: armei cdin Tuppc naked broug wore . lours, them I point the "Wind remained two days, fomctimes blowing a ircfli gale with fqiialls and rain. On the 2d of March It Ihilted to N. W. and afterwards to S. W. between which point and tlie N. it continued to blow, fome- times very moderately, and at other limes a flrong gale, With this wind wc ftecred N. E. by E. and £1 with all the fail we could carry, till Tnefday the i ith, when it T^eered to N. E. and S. E. "wc then flood to the N. and the S. E. as the wind would permit, till the i6ih, when having a gale from the N. we flood to the E. The next day we proceeded to the N. E. hut, as the wind fre- IfVIX*" ' quently veci:ed to the E. and E. N. E. we often made \con\ ^] no better than a northe»-ly courfe. The hopes, how- 1 aV^ ever, of the wind coming more foutherly^ or from the l.-pj. " weftward, a little without the Tropic of Capricorn, en- l.j, , P? couraged the Commodore to continue this courfe. It If.:?: ^ was indeed neceflciry that wc fhould run alj hazards, as lothe ^' cur proceeding to the N. this fummer, in profecution loth^of cf the principal objed of the expedition, entirely de- ly^. . r pended on cur. having a quick pafliigc to Otaheite, 0?lnartlv ^ the Society liles. ^ ^ ILio- . We croiTed the Tropic on the ?7th, the wind, for a confiderable time before, having remained almoft in- variably fixed at E. S. E. In all this run, we obfcrved nothing that could induce us to fuppofe we had failed near any land, except occafionally a tropic bird. Iubj-q.^ r the latitude of 34 d, 20 m. longitude 199 d. we pafle{ll,|jgj^ [? the trunk of a tree, which appeared much weather-B!„ n beaten, and v^-as covered with barnacles. On the 29th,lp2- th ^^ as wc were flandinji; to the N. E. tlie Difcovery niadewjl i • ^ the fignal of Icelng land. We fbon found it to be al*- fmali illand, and flood for it till the evening, when itiioned* -' was at the tliitancc of f.vo or three leagues. The nexio „ r morning, at dny-brcak^ webore up for the wefl fide (Mi'ith th oUag. car enc eing tie hey ho liings fi bodies, making great Ihuuts. Upoj CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 'd Dwing March ;tween fome- vith all vhen it 1^. and . when tJpon cur nearer approach to the (hore", we faw ma- ny of the natives running along the beach, and by the anlftance of our glafles, could perceive that tliey were armed witlUong Ipears and clubs, which they brandifli- cd in the air with ligns of threatenint^, or, as fome of us fuppofed, with invitations to land. Mofl of them were naked, except having a kind of girdle, which was brought up between their thighs ; but fome of them wore about their (houldcrs pieces of cloch of various co- lours, white, llriped, or chequered; and almoft all of tie next | them had about their heads a white wrapper, in fomc nd fre- I degree refenibling a turban. They were of a tawny n made I complexion, robuft, and about the middle fize. s, how- I ^ fmall canoe was now launched from the moft dif» rom the |(ant part of the beach, and a man getting into it, put ofF, orn, en- 1^^ with a view of reaching the ihip ; but his courage jrfe. It Ifailingj he quickly returned towards the beach. An- zards, as |other man foon after joined hhn in the canoe ; and thea )fecution fcoth of them paddled towards us. Ihey feemcd, hov^r- irely de-lgvef afraid to approach, till their apprehcnfions were iheite, Q?|pjirtly removed by Omai, who addreffed them in the language of Otaheite. Thus encouraged, they came ^> ^'^F ^Inear enough to receive fome nails and beads, whicli, moft m-Jeing tied to fome wood, were throxvn into the canoe, obfcryedlrjigy however put the wood alide without untying the ad faileclp^i^gj from it, which may perhaps have proceeded ii^d. J^^lrom fuperllition ; for we were informed by Om.ai, that re pafleutijen they obferved us offering prefents to them, they weather-»gq^Qe{]^gd fomething for their Ejicca. On Omai's alk- he ^9'^»lng them whether they ever eat human fieih, they re- ry madepiej in the negative, with equal abhorrence and indig- to be alj;jttQn, One of them, named Mourooa, being quef- when Ulioned with regard to a fear on his forehead, fald itwas he nexAg confequence of a wound he had received in fighting ft fine ^m\{\\ the natives of an ifland lying towards the N. li. the TceHi^o fometimes invaded them. They afterwards laid ands on a rope, but would not venture on board, telling mai,that their countrymen on fhore had fuggefted to em this caution j and had likewilb direded them to en- quire' ired, folj in imall Upoc 74 CAPTAIN CO|i|t'$ THIRD VOYAGE. quire "whence our (hip^caxne, and to procure information of the name of the Captain. Their chief, they faidjwas called Orooaeeka. Upon our enquiring the name of the ifland, they told us it was Mangya^ or Matigeea^ to which they fometimcs added, nooe^ mii^ naiwa. The features of Mourooa were agreeable, and his di{- pofition, to all appearance, was no lefs fo ; for he exhi- bited fome droll geiliculat'ons, which indicated humour and good nature. He aifo made others of a ferious kind, and repeated fome words with an air of devotion, before he would venture to take hold of the rope at the ftern of the fhip. He was lufty and well made, though not tall. His complexion was nearly of the lame calt with that of the natives of moll louthern parts of Europe. His companion was not fo handfome. They both had ftrong, ftraight, black hair, tied together on the top of their heads with a piece of white cloth. They had long beards ; and the infide of their arms, from the elbow to the fhoulder, a» i fome other parts, were tatooed or pundlured. Tlie lobe of their ears was flit to fuch a length, that one of them ftuck there a knife and fome beads, which we had given him. The fame perfon had hung about his neck, by way of ornament,! two polilhed pearl (hells, and a bunch of human hair, loofely twifted together. They wore a kind of girdles, which we found were a fubftance manufactured from the mortis fcipyr'tferay and glazed like thofe ufed in the Friendly Iflands. They had on their feet a fort of fan-f dais, made of a grafiTy fubftance interwoven, which we obferved were alio worn by thofe whom we had feenj en the beach. The canoe in which they came was the) only one we faw. It was very narrow, and not abovel ten feet long, but ftrong and neatly made. The lov;er[ part was ot white wood ; but the upper part was blackj and their paddles were made of wood of the fame co-l lour ; thele were broad at one end, and blunted, and a-T bout three feet long. The fore part had a flat boanll fattened over it, which projeded out, to prevent the water from getting in. It had aa upright ilern, fivd fee ^ ft > lation me of 'ea^ to us dU- : exhi- amour ferious votlon, J at the though me c:ill >arts of They ther on 2 cloth, ir arms» er parts, ears was e a knife :he fame namentJ an hair, ff eirdles, red from „d in the nt of fan-l . hich wel had feenl |e was the! iOt abovel ;he lower! ^vasblackJ fame col jd, and a-T flat boana levent the :ern, fivfl © e i \ feetl Th( wai '^^/-■*»^ B. Cool nieni felf, two whci fkati^ tain, coul( But eithci unlefs were CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 75 feet high, which tei n:\inatecl at the top in a kind of fork. They paddled iudiffercntiy tither end of law canoe for- ward. As foon as the fhips were in p/oper flation, Captain Cook fent out two boats to endeavour to find a ronve- nient place for landing. In one of them he went hii/i- felf, and had no fooner put off from the fliip, than the two men in the canoe paddled towards his boat ; and when they were comealongfidejMourooa, without he- iitation, ftept into her. Omai, who was with the Caj)- tain, was defired to enquire of the iflander where we could land ; upon which he diredled us to two places. But we foon obferved, with regret, that the attempt at either place was imprahall the lafcivious geiti- culutions pradtifed by the Otaheiteans in their dances. Wc had likewife reafon to fuppofe, that they have fi- milar methods of living : for though we had not an op* portunity of feeing many of their habitations, we ob- iervedone houle near tJie l>each, wliich, in its mode of conftrudion, differed little from thofe of Otaheite. It appeared to be feven or eight feet high, and about thir- ty in length, with an open end, which reprcfented an elilpfe, or oval, tranfverlely divided, it was pleafantly lituated in a grove. 1 hefe people falute ftrangers by joining nofes, and taking the hand of the perfon whoni they accoft, which they rub with fome force upon their mouth and nofe. It is worthy of remark, that the inliabitants of the Palaos, Mew Philippine, or rather Caroline Iflands, though at the diftance of near 1500 leagues from Mangeea, have a limilar metliod of f^lutation. K 2 ^}i CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. An IJland named Waieeoo difcovered—Vifils from the Inhabi- tants on board the Ships — Their Perfons and Drefs de- fcribed — The Coaji of the IJland defcribed — Lieutenants Gore and Burney^ Mr Anderfon and Omai, feni on Shore — Mr Anderfon s Account of their Reception — They are in- troduced to three Chiefs — Dance oftzventy young Women de- fcribed Qmai^s Apprehenfions of being roajicd The JJlanders fend Provifions on board — Further Defcription of the Natives — Of their double Canoes^ Trees y and Plants — Omai^s Expedient to prevent being detained on Shore — He meets with three of his Countrymen — Account of their dif- irefsful Voyage —Additional Remarks relative to Vfateeoo, W "^■^TE quitted Mangeea in the afternoon of 3otIi of VV March, and proceeding on a nortlierly courle, we again difcovered land, on the 3111:, at the diftance of nine or ten leagues. The next morning we were a- breaft of its north end, within four leagiievS of it. It now appeared tons to be an iiland nearly of the lame extent with that which we had jult left. Another ifland, much fmalier, was alfo defcried right aheaJ. Though we could foon have reached this, we preferred the larger, one, as being moft likely to furnifh food for the cattle, W^e therefore made fail to it; but there being little I wind, and that unfavourable, we were ftill about two leagues to the leeward at eight o'clock the fucceeding morning. The Commodwe foon after difpatched three armed boats, under the command of Mr Gore, his Firlt Lieutenant, in fearch of a landing place and anchoringj ground. Meanwhile wc plied up under the iiland with! thcl /CAPTAIN C00t*s THIRD VOYAGE. 7f the (hips. As our boats were putting off, we faw feve- ral canoes coming from the {hore, which repaired firll to the Difcovery, as that fhip was the neareft. Not long after three of thefe canoes, each conJu6:ed by one man, came alongfide of the Relolntion. They are long and narrow, and are fuppoited by outriggers : the head is Hat above, but prow-like below; and the (Icrn is about four feet high. We beftowed on our vilitors fome knives, beadi^, and other trifles : and they gave us fome cocoa nuts, in confequence of our having afked for them ; but they did not part with them by way of ex- change, as they feemed to have no idea of barter or traffic. One oi them, after a little perfuafion, came on board j and the other two foon followed his exam]:>le. They appeared to be perfectly at their eafe, and free from all apprehenlion. After their departure, a man arrived in another canoe, bringing a bunch of plan- tains as a j)refent to Captain Cook, w^ho g^ve him in return, a piece of red cloth and an axe. We weie af- terwards informed by Omai, that this prefect had been lent from the king of the illand. Soon after a double canoC; containing twelve of the iflanders, came towards us. On approaching the Ihip they recited fome words in concert, by way of chorus, one of them firil giving the word before each repetition. Having finifhed this I'olemn chant, they came alongfide, and afked for the chief. As foon as Captain Cook had made his appear- ance, a pig and fome cocoa nuts were conveyed into d much Hthe fhip ; and the Captain was alfo prefented with a ugb welpiece of mattinpj, by the principal perion in the canoe, e larger Bwhen he and his companions had got on board, e cattle. ■ Thefe new vifitors were introduced into the cabin, i^g little Band conducted to other parts of the fliip. Though 30Ut twoBl'ome objecfts feemed to i'urprifc them, nothing could hx cceedingBiheir attention. They >vere afraid to venture near the led threelows and horfes, of whofe nature they could form no his Yivltlonception. As for the iheep and goats, they gave us ichoringBounderftand that they kiipw tliem to be birds. It is a and with! matter tbcl rj de- mants Shore jre in- len de- mm ■■ X iJk, ption of lanU — re — Hi? Wir dif- faueoo. '^otli of ^courle, [ance of [were a- It now Le extent s« CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, matter of aftonifhment, that human ignorance could ever inake ib ridiculous a miflake, as there is not the fmallell refemhlance between any winged animal and a flicep and a goat. But thele peoj-jle feenied unacquaint- ed with the exiilence of any other terreltrial animals, than hogPj dogs, and birds ; ?,nd as they faw that our goats and fiieep were very dilTerent from the two for- mer, they abfurdly inferred, that they mull belong lo the latter clafs, in which tliey knew there was a great variety of fpecies. Though the (..'ommodtTe bellowed on his new fjicn J what he fuppoied would be the moil acceptable prelent, yet he feenied ibmewliat difappoint- cd. The Ca[)iain was afterwards informed that he i'agerly widied to procure a dog, of wliich kind of ani- mals this ifland was dcilitute, though the natives knew that tlie race exided in other iflands of the Pacific Ocean. Captain Gierke had received a liniilar prefent, with the lame view, from another man, who was equally dil'ap- pointed in his expedlations. • ' ;* Tlie idanders whom we bad fcen in tliofe canoes were in general of the middle (tature, and not unlike the lv]an;,»eeans. Their hair either flowed loofely over their fliouldcrp, or was tied oji the crown of the head; and fcimurit tliough in fome it was liizzled, yet that, as well as thcMwhic/i ilraig.ht fort, was long. Some of th.- young men were! TUq handloir.e. Like the inhabit;»ntG of Mangeea, thcyBCoo/c dc wore (girdles of glazed cloth, (;r fmc matting, the endslf the t of vvl\ich were brought between tbclr thiglis. Their ■i'lvo of cars were bored, and they wore about their necks, bvBiied kin way ot" ornament, a fort oi broad grals, flained with rcil, and llrung with berries of the night-lhade. Many of| them were curioufly marked or tatooed from the mid- dle downwards, particularly upon their legs ; which made them appear as if they wore boors, llieir bean were long, and they had a kind of landalson their icet Thc^ were (rank and chearful in their deportment, au very /-'cndly and good-natured. Lieutenant Gore returned from his excurfion In tli afternoon, and informed Captain Cook, that he had ex amin;. am to ; boa con trac exn we ( mig; yont As \} cinvG . Wc o ing tc to tile andpj wl a di oifei-ed flernen great n I to prop, yet he . Howev ip^^ be lit olt, a clock b '^^ivcd OL, "gnuf !e'n. C ikrs of flow tiie pons, audi n CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD '"OYAGE. *Ji ouU\ : the md a ,aint- ma\s, it our fov- >ng to lowed e moi^ )polut- l.i:At he of anl- s knew Ocean, vith the y difap- amined the weft fide of the ifiand, whhout behig able to find a place where the ihips could ride in r;ifcty, or a boat could land, the fhore being bounded by a ftecp coral rock, againlt which a continual furf broke with ex- traordinary violence. But as the inhabitants fcenicd extremely friendly, and as dclirous of our landing as \vc ourfelves were, Mr Gore wms of opinion, that they might be prevailed upon to bring off to the boats be- yond the iurf Inch articles as wc were moll in need oJ^ As wc had little or no wind, the delay of a day or two T/as of fmall coniideration ; and therefore the Coir.nio- dore refolved to try the experiment the next morning. We obferved, foon after day- break, fome canoes com- ing towards tlie (hips ; one of which diredicd its courf- to the Relblution. There were in it Ibme c(K:oa nuT» and plantains, and a hog, for which the natives demand- ed a dog from us, refuting every other th.ing that wc offered by way of exchange. Though one of our gen- tlemen on board had a dog and a bitch, which were great nuiiances in the flilp, and wliich might have ferved oeswere ito propagate a race of ih ufeful an animal in this ifiand, dike the ly^t he could not be prevailed upon to part with them. ver their liiowever, to gratify thele people, Omai gave them a ad * and If.ivourite dop; he had broUj.;ht iVom Great Britain ; witli 11 as the Iwhich acquiiition they wore highly pkafed. oil werel 1 he laint; morning, which was the 3d of April, Capt, ea thcyMCoOiv detached Mr Gore with three bc^ats to make trial the endsBof the experiment which that officer had propofcd. Their ft wo of the natives who !iad been on board accompa- iecks byftled him : and CJmai ierved as an interpreter. 'I'hc with ra(,fcps bei»'.g a full league iVom the iHand when the boats. Many owiit oit, and the wind being inconliderable, it was twelve the nVul-B'clock before we could work up to it; Wc then pcr- whichfcved our three boats jull witliout the furf, and an anva- cu'beanlsBng num'^or of the iilandcrs on the ihorc, abreait or heh icetMicm. Concluding from this that liiwUtenant C>ore and leiit auWiers of our people had landed, we were impatient to now the event. With a view of obicrving tlieir mo- loii in tliBons, and being ready to aifurd them luch aliillance as ^e bad exl they aiuincJ^ 82 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. then fron iloci "um clubs perib on th angul a poli large I had n< the pe ni they might occafionally require, the Commodore kept as near the (hore as was confiftent with prudence. He was convinced, however, that the reef was a very effec- tual barrier between us and our friends who had landed, and p'lt them completely out of the reach of our pro- tedion. But the natives, in all probability, were not i'o fenfible of this circumftance as we were. Some of them now and then brought a few cocoa nuts to the ihips, and exchanged them for whatever was offered them. The occalional vilits diminifhed the Captain's folicitude about our people who had landed ; for, though we could procure no intelligence from our vifitors, yet their venturing on board feemed to imply, that their countrymen on Ihore had made no improper ufe of the conlidence rcpofed in them. At length, towards the las he/; evening, we had the fatisfadion of feeing the boats re- land m, turn. When our people got on board, we found that land oo Mr Gore, Mr Anderfon, Nlr Burney, and Omai, werelmarkaF the only perfons who had landed. The occurrences ofl»otap]] the day were now fully reported to the Commodore by Icondud] Mr Gore. Mr Anderlbn's account of their tranfadlions, Ifeemed which was very circumftantial, and included fome ob-land was fervations on the ifland and its inhabitants, was to the Ijaluted following purport. Iboth to They rowed towards a fandy beach, where a greatlbeing g number of the natives had aflembled, and came to anpreme h anchor at the diftance of a hundred yards from the reef.l The Several of the iflanders fwam off, bringing cocoa-nutslfon and with them ; and Omai gave them to underftand, thatlyounff our people were defious of landing. Soon after twoBentrar^ed canoes came off; and to infpire the natives with aCnd iole greater confidence, Mr Gore and his companions re-Bofe up folved to go unarmed. Mr Anderfon and LieutenanAithout Burney went in one canoe, a little before the other and their conductors watching wnth great attention thi motions of the furf, landed them fafely on the reef. native took hold of each of them, with a view of fu porting them in walking over the rugged rocks to thi beach, where feveral others, holding in their hands thMonfi?led boughf Vol. n. Bued th< Mn, wj jlie feveri pnged bugh tl CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 83 houghs of a fpecies of mimofuy met them, and fainted them by the jund:ion of nofes. They were condu^led from the beach amidft a vaft multitude of people, who flocked around them with the moft eager curiofity ; and being led up an avenije of cocoa palms, foon came to a number of men, arranged in two rows, and armed with clubs. Proceeding onward among thefe, they found a perlbn who appeared to be a chief, fitting crofs-legged on the ground, and cooling himielf with a kind of tri- angular fan, made from the leaf of the cocoa palm, with a poliflied handle of black wood. He wore in his ears large bunches of beautiful feathers of a red colour ; but had no other mark to dillinguiih him from the reft of the people. Our two countrymen having fi\lured him las he fat, marched on among the men armed with clubs, and made to a fecond chief, adorned like the former, and occupied like him in fanning himfelf. He was re- markable for his fize and corpulence, though he did Uot appear to be above thirty years of age. They were conduced in the fame manner to a third chief, who feemed older than the two former : he alfo was fitting, and was ornamented with red feathers. After they had. lialuted him as they had done the others, he defired them [both to fit down ; which they willingly confented to, jbeing greatly fatigued with walking, and with the ex- |treme heat they felt amidft the furrounding multitude. The people being ordered to feparate, MefT. Ander- jfon and Burney iaw, at a fmall diftance, about twenty (young women, adorned like the chiefs with red feathers, engaged in a dance, which they performed to a flow and iolemn air, fung by them all. Our two gentlemen \ok up, and walked forward to fee thefe dancers, who, fithout paying them the fmalleft attention, ftill conti- nued their dance. They feemed to be directed by a lan, who, in the capacity of a prompter, mentioned Ihe feveral motions tney were to make. They never panged the I'pot, as Europeans do in dancing ; and liough their feet were not entirely at reft, this exercife lonlifted more in moving their fingers very nimbly, Vol.11. N^. 23. L holding f «4 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. now 1 holding their hands at the lame time in a prone pofition near the face, and occafionally clapping them together.*! J?^^^ ' Their dancing anci (inging were pcriormed in theex-1 . "^< adtefl: concert. They had probably been inflru£ledl"^v^ ' with extraordinarY "are, and felcded for this ceremo-l ^^ ^^e ny, being fuperior in beauty to moft of thofe who werel^"^^ iji the crowd. They were in general rather flout, and! ^^'j/^^^ of an olive complexion, with black hair flowing inl'^^,!."^*^. ringlets down their necks. Their fhape and limbs werelP jj*^*"^^- elegantly formed ; for their drefs confiding only of al*^ . ^^ piece of glazed cloth tied round the waift, whichfcarce-IJjJ'^^*^ ]y reached fo low as the knees, our gendemen had aal ^^-^^^ opportunity of obfcrving almoft every part. Their feaJ^^ uetaii tures were rather too full to conftitute a perfect beautyjj . ^^ ^o Their eyes were of a deep black, and their countenance J"'? v^*^ cxprefled a great degree of modefty and complacency, ■"^"^".g Before thefe beauteous females had finilhed thei dance, our two countrymen heard a ncife, as if fom horfes had been galloping towards them ; and on turn ing their eyes afide, they faw ihe people armed wit clubs, who had been dcfired to entertain them, as the fuppofed, with an exhibition of their mode of fightinp;J'^^^P^^d which they now did, one party purfuing another whM^"^y ^o ran away. "- #the plat Lieutenant Burney and Mr Anderfon began now tW^y "^un< look about for Mr Gore and Omai, whom they J^^»ashe length found coming up, as much incommoded»by thr'^"S ^^ crowds of people as tliemfelves had been, and intrcBj!! ^" ^^^ duced in the fame manner to the three chiefs ; thf jj*^ ^^ ^ names of v/hom were Otteroo, Taroa, and Fatouweerft'"' ''^"f^ ^ Each of thefe expeding a preient, Mr Gore gave thej^ them oned b] defcende MrBi: the iwas n vvhetl day before he fhould have what was wanted. TheJ'-'^^^^^ par "inetinies fquently * The dances here defcribed, bear a great rcfemWance to thoM ^^ ' ^* of the natives of the Caroline Iflandi. W^Y ^^ the •■• of his fufpicions ; and to ^^ theJ^ whether they were wcl! founded or not, they both fi^ht'n w'^^^P^^^ ^° E^^ to the beach : but they were foon ftop- 1?^ ^Red by fome of the natives, who faid they mud return p)the place which they Iiad left. On their coming up, ey found Omai under the fame apprehenfions ; but he d, as he imagined, an additional motive of terror; for ving obferved that they had dug a hole in the ground ir an oven, which they were now heating, he could ?"f '*•" thf^^ no other reafon for it, than that they intended to n ^, eJ *^"^^ devour our party : he even went fo far as to °^ the*' ^^^"^ whether that was their intention, at which ^W t)u»^y ^^^^ much furprifed, aiking in return, whether v.^ JgJiat cuftom prevailed among us. th n J^ *^"* ^^^^ Anderfon and the others detained the *cateft part of the day, being fometimes feparated, and iinetimes together ; out conrioually in a crowd, who fquently deiired them to uncover parts of their fkin, le light of which ftruck the iflanders with admiration. ey at the fame time rifled the pockets of our country-- di ; and one of them fnutclied from Mr Gore a b^yo-' L 2 net. a now t they ed»bythl d intn ice The to the nel t6 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. been drefl fatigue, h( ' they eat , now near tlie remair be carried prepared t tives did m the canoe i of her, whi Anderfon, the higheft net, which hung by his fide. This being reprefentct to one of the chiefs, he pretended to fend a perfon ii . fearch of it, but probably countenanced tlic theft ; fo Omai foon after had a dagger ftolen from his fide ii the fame manner. They now brought fomc greei, boughs, as emblems of iriend{hip, and (ticking the end? of them in the ground, defirecl that our party woulc' hold them as they fat, giving them to underftand, tha they muft ftay and eat with them. The fight of a pi^ lying near the oven which they had prepared and heat ed, removed Omai's apprehenfions of being put into i himfelf, and made him think that it might be intendec— ,.,^ „,„, for tlie repaft of him and his three friends. The chieB the ba?. alfo fent iome of his people to provide food for the catM boats with tie, and they returned with a few plantain trees, whicH vifions • an* they conveyed to the boats. In the mean time, MeflrB The reftr* Burney and Andcrfon made a fecond attempt to get m very little c the beach j but on their arrival, they found tljemfelvcM they were fe watched by people who fecmed to have been flationei they had bet there for that purpofe ; for when Mr Anderfon endeal were confin voured to wade in upon the reef, one of them draggej thing that him back by his clothe.'^. They alfo infilled upon hiB people whi 'j throwing down fome pieces of coral that he had pickeM Except a fev up, and on his refufal to comply, took them from hiijwerc all of a by force. Nor would they iiifFer him to retain foralthaf our eer fmali plants which he had gathered. They li.kewill dignity of d took a fan from Mr Burney, which, on his cominM whiter. In afliore, he had received as a prefcnt. Finding that ohM long and bla< dience to their will was the only method of procurinjof the younn better treatment, the gentlemen returned to the placBa delicate co they had quitted ; and the natives now promifed, thJdiem, corpu after they had partaken of a repaft which had been pi J a remarkable pared for them, they fhould be furnidied with a canolconfifted of ■ to carry them off to their boats. Accordingly the fecoiiKut fbme ha chief to whom they had been prefented, having featelwith black a himfelf on a low ftool, and direded the multitude tl out fleeves- form a large ring, made them fit down by him. " ^ ' number of cocoa nuts were now brought, with a qua., tity of baked plantains, and a piece of the pig that ha| bee core of a coc] 'ears, lyhi^h Hi;'-.; CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 87 been drefled, was placed before each of them. Their fatigue, however, had taken away their appetites ; but they eat a little to pleafc their entertainers, it being now near fun-fet, the i (landers fent down to the beach the remainder of the provifions that had been drcfl'ed, to be carried to the (hips. Our gentlemen found :i canoe prepared to put thern off to their boats, which the na- tives did with great caution ; but as they were pufliing the canoe into tiie furf, oqe of them fnatched a bag out of her, which contained a pocket-pidol belonging to Mr Anderfon, who calling out to the thief with marks of the higheft difplcafure, he fwam back to the canoe with the bag. The iflanders then put them dn board the boats, with the cocoa-nuts, plantains, and other pro-* vifions ; and they immediately rowed hack to the (hips. The reftrained fituation of thele gendemen gave them very little opportunity of obferving the cQuntry : for they were feldom a hundred yards from the place v/here they had been introduced to the chiefs, and confequently were confined to the furrounding objects. The firft thing that attraded their notice, was the number of people which muft have been at Icaft two thoufand. Except a few, thofe who had come on board the (hips 1 were all of an inferior clafs ; for a great number of thofe [thaf our gentlemen met with on Ihore, had a fupcrior j dignity of demeanor, and their complexion was much [whiter. In general, they had their hair, which was I long and black, tied on the crown of the head. Many lot the young men were peifeO: models in (hapc, and of a delicate complexion. The old men were, many of (hem, corpulent; and they, as v/ell as the young, had a remarkable fmoothnefs of fkin. Their general drcfs confiiLcd of a piece of cloth wrapped about tlie waifh but ibme had pieces of mats, moil curioufiy variegated with black and white, fc nrxe I into a kind of jacket v/itli-^ put fleeves ; while others \v jre conical caps made of the core of a cocoa nut, intervs^oven with beads. In their ears, whi^h were pierced, they hung pieces of the -, mem-s la 'MAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) & // ^/ ^ 5^*5^ ^o /. Kl 1.0 I.I 11.25 ■" Ki |2.2 1.4 11.6 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation . ? WtiT MAIN STMBT WEB>r»^^< N.Y. 14SS0 (716) S72-4S03 •17 \ <^ O^ J 4 /j ■*i «s CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. membraneous part of fome plant, or ftuck there feme odoriferous flower. The chiefs, and other perfons of rank, had two little balls, with a common baie, made of bone, which they hung round their nrcks with Imall cord. Red feathers are here confidered as a particular mark of diftindlion ; for none but the chiefs, and the young women who danced, alTumed them. Some of the men were puniStured all over the fides and back, and fome of the women had the fame ornaments (if it ticferves that name) on their legs. The elderly women had their hair cropped fliort, and many of them were rut all over the fore- part of the body in oblique lines. The wife of a chief appeared with her child, laid in a piece of red cloth, which had been prefentcd to her hufband ; {he fuckled the infant much after the manner of our women. Another chief introduced his daughter, who was young, beautiful, and modeft. No perfonal deformities were obferved in either fex, except m a, few individuals who had fears of broad ulcers remaining on the face and other parts. Many of the natives were armed with fpears and clubs, the latter of which were generally about fix feet long, made of a hard black wood, neatly poliihed. The fpears were formed of the fame wood, fimply pointed, and were in general twelve feet long ; but fome were fo ihort as to fecm intended for darts. They preferved their canoes from the fun under the iliade of various trees. Our gentlemen faw eight or ten of them, ail double ones; that is, two lingle ones faf- tened together by rafters lafhed acrofs. They were about four feet deep, and in length about twenty feet, and the fides were rounded with a plank raifed upon them. Two of thefo canoes were curioufly flained all over With black, in innumerable fmall figures, a? tri- angles, fquarcs, &c. and were far fuperior to any thing of the kind JVIr Anderfon had ever feen at any other ifland in the South Sea. The paddles werQ almoft i^iiindcalj and about four feet long. Moil country which offuch them; ( fliot. i ledged t former ; Igreat ea: 'and ever [this cou, CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. fome ns of ide of Imall icular id the ime of back, s (if it k'omcn I were e line?, id in a to her nanncr ughter, lerfonal a a few ling on ' Moft Mod of the trees ohfcrvcd hy Mr A'lderfon, were cocoa pahns, f bme fpecies of b'ibifcusy a fort of euphorbia^ many of the fame kind lie had feeii at Mangeea. Thii latter are tall and (lender, refemblinp; a cyprefs ; and are called by the natives wall ; it is of a hrownifli colour, and nearly even with the furface of the water ; and though its texture is rather porous, it is capable of with (landing the wafliing of the furf which constantly breaks upon it. Thoujzh the landing of our gentlemen was tV^ means of enriching the narrative of the voyage with the prece- ding particulars, the principal objeA inview Vv^as partly unattained ; for we fcarce procured any thing worth mentioning from the illand. It has been already mentioned, that Omai wus fcnt upon this expedition as Mr Gore's interpreter ^ which perhaps was not the only fervice he performed this day. He was queflioned by the natives concerning us, our country, our (hips, and arms ; in anfwer to which, he told them, among many other particulars, that our [country had (hips as large as their ifland, on Board of which were in^plements of war (defcribing our guns) of fuch dimenfions, as to contain feveral people within them ; one of which could demolilh the ifland at one (hot. As for the guns in our two (liips, he acknow- ledged they were but fmall in comparifon with the former ; yet even with thefe, he fuid, we could with [great cafe, at a confiderabL diftance, deftroy the ifland land every foul in it. On their enquiring by what means Ithis could bs done, Omai produced fome cartndgcs from "r'J^ -JO CAPTAIN COOIC's THIRD VOYAGE. from his pocket» and having fubmitted to infpedlion the balls, and the gunpowder by which they were to be fet in motion, he difpofed the latter upon the ground, and, by means of a piece of lighted wood, fctit en fire. The liiddcn blaft, the mingled flame and fmoke, that inflantaneoufly fucceeded, filled the natives with fuch allonifliment, that ihey no longer doubted the formidable power of our weapons. Had it not been for the terrible ideas they entertained of the guns of our fhips, from this fpecimen of their mode of operation, it was imagined that they would have detained the gen- tlemen the v\'hole night ; for Omai afliired them, that if he and his friends did not return on board the fame day, they might exped that the Commodore would fire upon the ifland. Though this ifland had never before been vifited by Europeans, there were other ftrangers now refiding in it ; and it was entirely owing to Omai's accompanying Mr G^re, that this remarkable circumftance came to our knowledge. He had fcarcely landed on the beach, tvhen he found, among the crowd, three of his own countrymen, natives of the Society Tiles. Atthedil^ tance of about two hundred leagues from thofe inlands, Ijjive* he an immenfe ocean intervening, with fuch miferabte fealconiicJ^ boats as their inhabitants make ufe of, fuch a meeting, l|]a!)ite-' at fuch a place, fo accidentally vifited by us, may be con-i 'fi^,^ iidered as one of thofe extraordinary and unexpedled|rceoo." fituations, which ftrike a curious oblerver with wonder and amazements The mutual furprize and pieafure with which Omai and his countrymen engaged in con- verfation, may eafily be imagined. Their ftory, as re lated by themfelves, is a very afl'eding one. Aboiitj twelve perfons, male and female, had embarked in a ca-| noe at Otaheite, with an intention of croffing over t Ulietea; but they were prevented by contrary windsBctiveVev from reaching the latter, or returning *^^o the formeiMfrs proih] iiiand. Theirftockofprovifions being foon exhaufted, " they fuffered inconceivable hardfhips. They pafTe many days without fuftcnance, in cooftquence of whic' ih tlv: and noe IlOVi ing days bifar then: othei n-cat: fcr n Omai ring 1 upon Here ' horn : ar Ota five is /ii(n:ory ciilativt and in and "^11 es L covered The foil lip the c our i i'l^eretJi' lof k4 We « rrom Vi>l. 11. CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. #t» tlioir number gradiiaDy cliiri;riirhcd,\vcrn out by famine and faiicjiie. Onlv four men furvived, when their ca- noe was ovcrfer. The c!eP(ru(flion of this finall remnant now leeinetl Inevitable ; however, they continued hang- ing by the lide of the veHcl, during fome of the lail diiys, till they providenliLilIy came in figlit of the inha- bitants of I his illnnd, who ierU o;it canoes and brought them on fiiore. One of thcrefour had fincc died. Tho other three were fo well fatisfied with the generous treatment they met wiih here, that they refufed the of- fer made them by our gendcmen, at the requeft of Omai, of taking them on board our (hip?, and refto- ring the:n to their native ifiands. They had urrivcd upon this coafi: at leall twelve years ago. Thcivhamea were Tavee, Orirrt,.oa, and Orououte : the former was born at Huaheine^ the fccond at Ulietea, and the latter at Otaheite. The appllcalion of the preceding narra- tive is obvious. It w\\\ fcrre to explain in a more fatis- facftory manner thrm the {limry conjedures of fome fpe- cuiative reafoners, how tiie detached parts of the world, and in particular tlie illands of the Pacific Ocean, may have been lirft peopled j th.ofe efpccially which lie at a coniiderable dlltance from each c ther, or from any in^^ 1 habited ccniincnr. The natives of thi«; iHand call it by the name ofWa- ItcCvio. It is livuated in the longitude of 201 d. 45 m. E. and \a the latitude of 20 d. i m, S^and is about fix b'^ues in circuit. It is a beautiful fpot, with a furface covered with verdure, and compoied of hills and plains. IThe foil in fome parts, is light and fandy : but furtlier m the country, we i^w from the Miip, by the aCfillance lot" our glafies, a reddilh call on the rifmg grounds. [There tlie iflanders buill th.cir houfes, for we could per- [ccive feveral of them, w'lich were long and fpaciou". fts produce is nearly the iaine with that of Mangcea Nnce Nainaiwa, the illand we had lall nuitrcd. if we may depend on Omai's report 01 what he learn- Itdfrom his three countrymen in the coiirfe of conver- ptbn, the manners of the people of Wateeoo, th:ir ge- Vol. 11.— N" 28. M neral #* CAPTAIN COOK'g THIRD VOYAGE. neral habits of life, and their method of treating ftrangers, greatly refemble thofe that prevail at Otaheite, and its neighbouring iflands. There is allb a great fimilarity between their religious opinions and ceremonies. From every cixcumftance indeed it may be confidered as indu- bitable, that the inhabitants of Watceoo derive their d.efcent from the fame ftock, which has fo remarkably difFufed itfclf over the immcnfe extent of the Southern Ocean. Omai affured us, that they dignified their ifland with the pompous appellation of Wenooa no ie Ea- tooa, implying a land of Gods.; efteeming themfelves a kind of divinities, poflcfled with the fpirit of the F.atooa. Their language was equally well underftood by Omai, and by our two Nev/ Zealanders who v/ere on board : its peculiarities, when compared with the other dialeds, we cannot poiiit out ; for the memorandum book, in which Mr x^nderfon had put down a fpecinien of itj was ftolen by the natives. Qtaktiotak por our We g mil tvv'( pee for Fie, as a W rocks F'le irtan( ^^tcndant ^y had farther af jiWling fii' tliree «''is /eat d CAPTAIN COOiC'a THIRD VOYAGE. »$ igers, id its larky From indu- : their rkably lUhcrn [ their ie Ed- elves a Eatooa. board ; dialeds, >ook, m .en of it> Otakcotaia vijited — Defcription of the IJland^ and itt Prodiui — Birds — FiJJy — Vijtt Hervcy's JJl and— ^D if cover it to be in- habited — The Inhabitants rcfufe to come on hoard — Their Propenfity to Theft — The'ir Manners^ Perfons^ Drefs^ Ca* fioeSy Isfc, — Make a fruitlefs Attempt to land — Bear awsy for the Friendly IJIands — Two Jflets of Palmerfims Ifiand. touched at — Defcription of the JJlets^ their Produce y ^c.— • Refrejhnents procured therC'—Proceed to the Friendly JJJands, CALMS and light airs having aUernately prevailed all the night of the 3d of April, before day-break the eafWrly fwell had carried the (hips fome diftance Irom V/atceoo ; but having failed of procuring at that place, fome effectual fupply, there appeared no reafon |tor our continuing there any longer ; we therefore wil- lingly quitted it, and ftecrcd for the ifland which we had difcovered three days before. We got up witli it about ten o'clock in the morning, Iwhen Captain Cook immediately difpatched Mr Gore jwiili two boats, to fee if he could land, and get fublift- leiice for our cattle. Though a reef furrounded the land O/iS^w^^'flhere, as at Watecoo, and a conliderable furf broke againfl nih^ rocks, cur boats no fooncr reached the weft lide of pc ifland, but they ventured in, and Mr Gore and his attendanls arrived fafe on fliore. Ciiptahi Cook feeing [hey had fo far fucceeded, ient a fmall boat to know if laither affiftance was required. She waited to take in Kiding of the produce of tlic ifland, and did not return [ill tliree o'clock in the afternoon : being cleared, (he ft MS ftiiit again for another cargo \ the jolly boat w^ .J^l 3 all ^4 CAPTAIN COOH'fi THIRD VOYAGE. alfo difpatcl'.ed upon the fame bufinefs, with oriters for Mr Gore to return with the boats before night, which orders were pundliiallv obftrved. The fupply obtained here waa about two hundred cocoa nuts for otirfelves, and iur our cattle fome grafs, and a quantity of the leaves and branches of young cocoa trees, and the pandanus. This ifland Hes about three or four leagues from Wa- teeoo, the inhabitants of which call it Otakootaia. It is I in the latitude of ig d. 15 m. S. and the longitude ofl 201 d. 37 m. E. and is fuppofed not to exceed thieef miles in ch'cuit. This idand is entirely dcdltute of water. Cocoai palms were the only common trees found there, of which there were feveral clufters, and great quantities 6£ the wharra^ or pandanm. There were alio the callophytl lum^ furiana^ with a few o'.her flirubs; alfo a fort'q hind-weed^trcack-mu/lard^ a fpecies olfpurge^ and the k^ rinda citrifolia ; the fruit of which is lometimes eaten bj the natives ofOtaheite. Omai, who landed with thd party, drcflcd fome of it far their dinner, but thcj thought it very indifferent. A beautiful cuckoo, of a chefnut colour, variegatci with black, was the only bird fecn amongll the trccrl ^ but, upon the fhore, were a fmall fort of curlew, bluMfhrow'ri and white herons, fome egg birds, and numbers iM/icuItytl] noddies. ' One of the company caught a lizard running up I tree; though fmall, it had a mod forbidding alpec Many of another fort were alfo {ttn. Infinite nun bers of a kind of moth, elegantly fpeckled with blacj white and red, frequented the bulhes towards the k leen. At this time there were no fixed inhabitants up(| the ifland ; but we difcovcred a few empry huts, whij convinced us of its being, at leali:, occaliorially vifite Monuments, confifiing of feveral Urge floiics, v/erea] . - ' : . . crcq phaved phooks »o rob us ]fr S*"g tc CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 9? irs foi* which mdred ; gvafj, young mWa- I. It is! itUx^e ofl :d ihiee Cocoal here, of ntiticR bi callophylA a fort d d the ho] eaten b\ with m but the' ?aviegaU ic trcer ew» blul imbers ning «p ig aipec liie nun vith blac| ds the 1( flies wt| lants up! ly vifiti ^ v;erea! ■crcout a ftone'tj throw from the fhip they flopped, and it was with dit- liculty that Omai prevailed on them to come along-fide 5 hut they could not be induced to truft thcmielves on [board. Indeed, their diforderly behaviour did nqt indi- cure a difjjclition to truft us, or to treat us well. They attempted to ftcal fome oars out vf the Difccvery's boat, land ftruck a man for endeavouring to prevent them, ITliey alfo cut av»-ay a net containing meat, which hung ever the ftern of that Ihip, and at iirft w^ould not rcltoie it, though thcv afterwards permitted us to purchaie i^ Itrcin them. Thofe who were about the Refolution, [behaved equally diforderly and daring ; for, with a fort jcf hooks made of a long ftick,.thcy openly endeavoured ho rob us of fcveral things, and adually got a frock b^- paging to o:ie of our people, It appeared that they W[ 96 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. Ind a know]cd|.^c of bartering, for they exchanged fome fifh for f()!Tic oi our fmall nails, of which they were ex- travngantly fond, and called thcmgcdre. Pieces of paper, or any other trifling article that was thrown to them, they c^uij;]it wLh the sreatefl: avidity ; and if what was thrown fell into tlie feii, they immediately plunged in to fwim after it. Though the diftance between Hervey's Ifland and Watecoo is not very ^ijreat, the inhabitants difrer greatly from each othcr,botb m perfon and difpofition. The co- lour of the natives of Tlervey's Ifland is of a deeper caft, and feveral of them had a fierce favage afpcd, like the na- tives of New Zealcind, though fome were fairer. Their hairv.'ns long and black, either hanging loofe about their fhoulders, or tied in a bunch en the top of the head. Some few, indeed, had it cropped Ihort, and, in. two or three of them, it was of a red or brownifn colour. Their cloathing '^""? a narrow piece of mat, bound feveral times rou he lower part of the body, and paffing between the tiii?;hs. We fiw a fine cap of red feathers r J and iflar can( are ( blam ^ W o'cloi could our b tcnaa connc our, th pulhir near u« . J^ie infornii lying in one of the canoes, and fome amongll ^Ji^^inlf^V^^ were ornamented with the Iheli of a pcail oyiler, poIIlh-1 '^^ ^^ ed, and hung about the neck* i^ qiiart( The mode of ornament, fo prevalent among the na-Mf ■ II Lives of this ocean, of punduring or tatooine thcirB'^"^ ^, languag«.|^^ more refemhl'^d the di;!icd of Otaheite, than that oP ^^^^ Mangeea or Watecoo. Like the natives of thole iflandsj they enquired from whence we came, wluiher bound] the fliip's name, the namv^ of our chief, and the numbq of men on board. 8uch queflions as we propofed tq them, they very readily aniwercd. They informed ui among other things, that they had l-)€fore feen two larg^ ihip?5, like ours, but had not Ipoken to them as thq pafied. Thef'e were, doubtlefs, the Refolution and Ad\ venture. They acquainted us that the naine of iWd CAPTAIN COOK'b THIRD VOYAGE. 91 fome eex- )aper, them, it was red in id and rrcatly lie co- er caft, the na- Their >ut tlieir e head. 1 two cr , Their i feveral , paiTing irtand was Terouggemou Atooa ; and that they were lhbje(£t to Tcerevatooeah, King ot' Wateeoo. I'heir food, they laid, coniilted of coeoa nuts, fifli, and turtle ; being deftituce of dogs and hogs, and the ifland not producing bread fruit or plantains. Their canoes (near thirty of which appeared one time in light) are tolerably large, and well built, and hear fome rcieni- blancc to thole of Wateeoo. We drew near the N. W. part of the ifland about one o'clock. This feemcd to be the only part where we could expedl to find anchorage, or a landing-place for our boats. Captain Cook immediately difpatchcd Lieu- tenant King, with two armed boats, to lound and re- connoitre the coaft. The boats were no fooner hoilled out, than our new vilirors fufpended their traffic with us, pulhing for fliore as fad as poiFible, and came no more near us. The boats returned at ilu*ee o'clock, and Mr King ^informed Captain Cook, that he could find no anchor- feathers Iggg f^j. ^y^^ fhips ; and that the boats could advance no y[\ them 1 f^rtl^er than the outer edge of the reef, which was almort r,pohih-lj quarter of a mile from the dry land. That a number* ■ of the natives came upon the reef, armed with clubs and the ii^-llong pikes, meaning as he fuppofcd,to oppofe his land- ng thcirBjjig . though, at the fame time,, they .threw cocoa nuts ughtheyBjQ quj- people, and requefted them to come on (liore; the fatiieBjiid, notwithftanding this fecming friendly treatment, langnag^tj^e women were very adlivc in bringing down a freflv b that ^Hiunply of darts and fpears. |ie uiana^a Captain Cook conhdered that, a<^ we could not bring r bounu»g n^jpj, ^q ^^^ anchor, the attempt to procure grafs here numbciB^vould be attended with delay and danger. Being thus if:;ppointcd in all the iflands after our leaving New ealand, and having, from variety of circumftanccs, ecn unavoidably retarded in our progref*^, it was in m to think of doing any thing this year in the high titudes of the northern hemiiphere, from which wc ere then fo far diilant, thougri it was then the leafou . br cur operations there. Thus lituavc-j, it Vv'as nccciTary )pofed tc )rmed v.\ Itwo largs as thtl and Adj of Cm ft CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. to purfue fuch rnearured Us appeared l^eO. calciiIateJ to prcfcvvc our cattle, and fave the (lores anil provliions of the fliips ; the hettcr to cnaljlc us to profcciite our nor- thern dilcoveries, whieh could not now commence till a year later than waii intended. If we could fortunately have procured a fapply of water and grafs, at any of the illands we had lately vifi!:- ed, Captain Cook intended to have Hood back to the fouth, till he had got a wcfterly wind. But without fuch a fupply, the certain coni'equence of doing this, would have been the lofs of the cattle, before it was goflible for us to reach Ot:\heite, without gaining a lingle point of advantage rcfpedling tlie grand obje«lt of ourvoyaf^c. The Captain therefore determined to hear away fur the Frieniily Iflands, where he knew lie could he well fupplied with every thing he wanted : and it being nc- ceflary to run nii^ht and day, he ordered (.^aptara Gierke to keep a Icaguj ahead of the Refolution ; becaufehis— Ihip could belt claw ofl'ihe land, which wc might pGiTi-l^?geth< biy fall m with in our paflage. MJiredlic \Ve (leered W, by S. with a fine breeze. Captain M^^fteriy Cook propofed to proceed firft to Middleburgh, orM'^'^ond, Eooa, thinking we might perhaps have provi(ionMf''cn be enough for the cattle, tolail till we fhonld arrive at thawo^.the j illand. But the next day, about noon, thofe faintB'^^^ng n breezes that had fo long retarded us, again returned J^'^^eve and we fountl it necelTary to get into the latitude oM^'^'iuni Palmerilon's and Savage Iflancls, which Captain CocM^^^ lant difcovered in 1774; tliat, in cafe of necellity, recouri« At on might be had to ilicm. . ■^"^^y-^ In order to fave our water. Captain Cook ordered tlw'^e, a i flill to be kept at work a whole day ; during whicW f^Jefla time wc procured about lifteen gallons of frelh water. ■"^'^^ed Thcfe light breezes continued till Tluirfday the lotW'.^f the when the wind blew Tome hours frelh from the N. aiw'^^fhe N. N. W. In the afternoon we had fomc very hcavB^/'iis in rain, attended wi'li thunder fqualls. We colleded »'pnt {'u ..-,,.. »[i'\M o ■^. I].. CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 99 IS of nor- ;e tUl ' vifit- to the '\thoul p; this, 'it wa"^ jjea ot way for be well a Gierke cauie his much raui water as filled live of our punchconfi. When thefe fqualls had blown over, the wiiul was very unfcttled, both in {Irength and in poliiion, till the next day at noon, when it fixed at N. W. and N. N. W. and blew a frcflx breeze. We were thus perfccuted with the wind in our teeth, and had the additional mortification to find thofc very winds here, which we had realbn to exptifl farther fouth. At day-break, however, on the ijih, we perceived Palmerfton's Ifland, bearing W. by &. at the diftancc of about five leagues; biit did not get up with it rlM the next morning, at eight. Captain Cook then dilpatci«cd tliree boats from the Refolution, and one from the Di(^ covery, with a proper officer in each, to fearth toi a convenient landii.g place ; we being now under an ab- folute neceffiry of procuring here Ibme provender for our cattle, or we mult certainly liave loll them. What.is called Palmerfton's Ifland, confifts of a group I of fmall iflets, about nine or ten in number, connected u Ti-1^^6^^^^^^y ^ feef of coral rocks, and lying in a circular fht poi 'Idiredlion. The boats firft examined the moft fouih- r inl'^^^^^^y ^^^^ » ^"^' "^^ fucceding there, ran down to the f ' llccond, where they immediately landed. Captain Cook ^'^^V^ Ithcn bore down with the (hips, till we were abreafl provi 1 ' BjjP ^j^g place*, where we kept (landing off and on, there ^^r" V 'ntl'^^^"S "o bottom to be found to anchor upon. This» - '■ijo^ever, was of no material eonrequence, as there were loie return^- «jj^ ^^^^^ beings upon the illaud, except the party who tain Coo recouri' had landed from our boats. At one o'clock one of the boats returned, laden with jfcurvy-grafs and young cocoa trees, which was, at this - y^\ t]i"^^' ^ ^"^^ excellent repall for our animals on board. ueret 29. ^ N accom- Ing VvWX Ih water the loi lie N. am -ry hcav '• i i«a CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. accompanied by the Captain of the Difcovery. The ifland does not exceed a mile in circumference, and is not elevated above three feet beyond the level of the fea. It confificd aimoft entirely of a coral fand, with a fmall mixture of blackifli mould, which appeared to -be pro- duced from rotten vegetables. This poor foil is, howevei, covered with the fame kinds of Ihrubs and buflies as we liad feen at Otakootaia or Wenooa-ette, though not in fo great variety. We perceived a great number of man of war birds, tropic birds, and two forts of boobies, which were then laying their eggs, and fo exceedingly tame as to permit us to take them off .their ncfts, which confil^ only of a few Aicks loofely put together. Thefe tropic birds differ cllentially from the common fort, being of a beautiful white, flightly tinged with red, and having two long tail- feathers of a cleepilh crimfon. Our people killed a con- fiderable number of each fort, which, though not the mod delicate kind of food, were highly acceptable to us, who had been a long time confined to a fait diet. We faw plenty of red crabs creeping about among the trees ; and caught feveral filh, which, when the fca retreated, had been l^ftin holes upon the reef. At one ^art of the reef, which bounds the lake with- in, aimoft even with the ifurface, there was a large bed of coral, w^hich afforded a mofl enchanting profped. Its bafe, which was fixed to the fhore, extended io far that it could not be feen, fo that it appeared fo be fuJ- pended in the water. The fea was then unruffled, and the refulgence of the fun cxpofed the various forts of coral, in the moft beautiful order ; fbme parts luxuriant- ly branching into the water; others appearing in vail variety of figures ; and the whole greatly heightened by fpanglcs of the richeft colours, glowing from a number of large clams, interfperfed in every part. Even this delightful fcene was greatly improved by the multitude of filhcs, that gently glided along, feemingly with the moft perfedt fecurity. Their colours were the m.oil beautihii beau &c. The creaf not I accor fo aft fo fell Ex beach cverh cd fro ever, J ifland I for, un ed in t The board. Ion iho ling. The -ding Itender foung lliavin^ 'ill the liic det( lag, fro nutr, foi off anc Iniornin incied, p!e ini cocoa n it was a iving o up to rli, K prefc or . The and is the fea. a I'm a 11 •be pro- le fame ikootaia y. We s, tropic [\ laying lit us to )f a few js difTcr beautiful long tail- ^d a con- not the t)le to wsy Let. We he trees ; ■etreated, | ike with- argc bed profped. led fo far o be ful- [llcd, and s forts of I ixuriant- in vaft 1 tencd by number '.ven thisl nultitud^ with the i the moftl beautiful eAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. i«^ beautiful that can be imagined ; blue, yellow, black, red, &c. far excelling any thing that can be produced by art. The richnefs of this fubmarinc grotto was greatly en- creafed.by their various forms; and the wiiole could not poflibly be furveycd without a plcafmg tranfport, accompanied, at the fame time, with regret, that a work fo aftonilhingly elegant fhould be concealed in a place fo fcldom explored by the humm eye. Except a piece of a canoe that was found upon tlie beach, no traces were difcoverable of inhabitants having ever been here ; and probably that may have been drift- ed from fome other ifland. We were furprifed, how-' ever, at perceiving fome fmall brown rats on this little iQand; a circumltance, perhaps, not eafily accounted for, unlefs we admit the poffibility of their being import- ed in the canoe, of which we faw the remains. The boats being laden. Captain Cook returned on I hoard, leaving Mr Gore and his party to pafs the night on Ihore, to be ready for bu/inefs early the next morn- lii^g. The 15th, like the preceding cky, was fpent in col- liding llibliftence for the cattle, conliiling principally of tender branches of the wliarra-trcc, palm- cabbage, and j'oung cocoa nut trees. A fufHcient fupply of thefe iiaving been procured by fun-fet, Captain Cook ordered all the people on board : bur, having very little wind, he determined to employ the next day, by endeavour- ing, from the next ifland to leeward, to get fome cocoa nutj; for our people : for this purpofe, v^q kept ftanding off and on all night; and, about nine o'clock in the morning, we went to the wcfl fule of .the iflands, and Imdcd, from our boats with little difiiculty. The peo- ple immediately employed themlelves in gathering cocoa nuts, v/hich we found in the grcatcil plenty ; but jt was a tedious operation to convey them to our boats, iiig obliged to carry them half a mile over the reef, up to tlic middle in water. Omai, who accom.panied [us, prefcntly carght, with a fcoop-net, as many iiih as up' lied the party on fliore for dinner, befides fending a N z (quantity 102 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. quantity to each (hip. Men of war, and tropic-birdsj ■were found here in abundance ; fo that we fared moft fumptuoufly. In thefe excurfions to the uninhabited iflands, Omai was of the greateft fervice to us. He caught the fifh, and drefled them, as well as the birds we Killed, after the fafhion of his country, with a dexte- rity and chearfulnels that did him honour. Before night the boats made two trips, and were each time heavy laden : with the lafV, Captain Cook returned on board, leaving his Third Lieutenant, Mr Williamfon, with a party to prepare another lading for the boats a^ gainft the next morning. Accordingly Capt. Cook difpatched them about feven o'clock, and by noon they returned laden. No delay was made in fending them back for another cargo, with orders for all to be on board by fun-fet. Thefe orders being pundually obeyed, we hoifled in the boats, and failed to the weftward, with a light air from the north. The iflet we lafl: came from is fomewhat larger than the other, and almofl covered with cocoa palms. The other produd:ions were the lame as at the firft iflet. On the beach were found two pieces of board, one of which was rudely carved, and an elliptical paddle. Thefe were perhaps a part of the fame canoe, the remains of which we had fcen on the other beach, the two iflets being within half a mile of each other. There were not fo many crabs here as at the laft place, but we found fome fcorpions and other infedts, and a much greater number of fifh upon the reefs. Among the reit were fome beautiful large fpotted eels, which would raife themfelves out of the water, and endeavour to bite their purfuers. There were alfo fnappers, parrot hfh, and a brown fpottcd rock filh, not longer than a haddock, fo tarae, that it would remain fixed, and gaze at u?. If we had been really in want, a fufHcient fupply might eafily have been had, for thoufands of the clams ftuck upon the reef, many of which weighed two or three pounds. There vrere alfo ibme other forts of fhell filh j and when the tide flowed, feveral Iliarks came viith it, fome CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 103 fome of which were killed by our people ; but their prcfence rendered it, at that time, unfafe to walk in the water. Mr Williamfon and his party, who were left on fliore, were much peftered in the night with mufqui- toes. Some of them fhot two curlews, and faw fome plovers upon the Ihore ; one or two cuckoos, like thofe at Wenooa-ette, were alfo feen. The iflets comprehended under the name of Palmer- fton's liland, may be faid to be the fummitsof a reef of coral rock, covered only with a thin coat of fand ; though clothed with trees and plants, like the low grounds of the high iflands of this ocean. Having left Palmerfton's Ifland we (leered W. in 1 order to proceed to Annamooka, We had variable winds, with fqualls, fome thunder, and much rain. The fliowers being very copious,we faved a confiderable I quantity of water ; and as we could procure a greater ifupply in one hour, by the rain, than by diftillation in la month, we laid the ftill afide, as being attended with I more trouble than advantage. The heat, which had continued in the extreme for 1 about a month, became much more difagreeable in this dole rainy weather, and we apprehended it would foon b" noxious. It is, however, remarkable, that there was not then a (ingle perfon fick on board either of the llhips. We pafTcd Savage Ifland, which Captain Cook diC- [covered in 1 774, in the night between the 24th and ijth ; and on the 28th, about ten o'clock in the morn- ling, we faw the iflands to the v-aftward of Annamooka, Ibearing N. by W. about live leagues diftant. We lleer- led to the S. and then hauled up for Annamooka. At lihe approach of night, the weather being I'qually, witl^ kin, we anchored in lifteen fathoms water. feme Pari^ i«4 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. Jjitrfer ivUh the Natives of Koman^o and other IJlands^ for Provifwns^ ^V. — Arrival at Jnnamooka — Variety of Tranf anions there — A Vift received from Feenou^ a principal Chief from Tongataboo — His Reception in the Jfland . Dines frequently on board the Rcfolution — Several Irjiances of the pilfering Difpojition of the "Natives — P unify ments in- fiSled en them 'Account of Annamooka Proceed tt Hapaee, , WE had not long anchored, when two canoes paddled towards us, and came alongfide with- I out delay or hefitation : there were four men in one of the canoes, and three in the other. They brought with them fome fug^r cane, bread fruit, plantains, and cocoa nuts, which they bartered with us for nails. After thefe canoes had left us, we were vifited by anotlier ; but as night was approax:hing, he did not long continue wlrh us. The id and ncareft to us was Komango, which was live miles diftant ; this fhews how thefe people difrc- gard trouble or danger, to »^,et pofTciTion of a few of our | mod trifling articles. At four o clock the next morning, Captain Cook dif- pntched Lieutenant King with two boats, to KomangoJ jn order to procure refrefhments ; and at five, made thej fignal to weigh, to proceed to Annamooka. As foon as day light appeared, we were vifited hyl fix or fcven canoes, bringing with them two pig?, ibme fov^ls, feveral large wood pigeons, fraall rails, and! fome violet-coloured coots, befides fruits and roots ofj various kinds ; which they exchanged with us for nails, [ hatchets, beads, &c. They had odier artick-s of com- merce,, !.N.K. f( fereeable i iptain C( lediiTerer fy of fruit hn the if lyoftheii At four t wtobeht E. w"!™ ?°^'- ™- VOV.CH. flands, for 1 ofTranf. niei-ce, but Cania;,, r i. "if age. , Ip'ied with proviil„-sra„d' i,^ 'f '''^, ^'!p« were fu! raifion from hi,n. ' "" '"«=y had obtained nir I About noon, Mr !?■;„„' l . ./ . r<^«/- Jfome grafs for our ai^mal '^ ?[ •'^'"f »"'' roots ; and alfo : principal ^^« "vility at Kora" ± Th P'"? ^•''■^ t^^ted w n ',mms in. i»' Mmc on boarue with f tv^ """.'' ^^>'' now right i„ou, ?f ,'i!'''"S evening j veil w«I/,^ '^""f'nued to „i °. " °"r teeth. *>' ,kdi7r!fc'^'^-y;at.d:„';^,/'4°^verj. ,i„, .V ofout|tT7«^^'-i."'e weft3'^2l°red in th'ir£y.'„ 'e ■•N. t. four miles "''anf ^ i '^""amooka bcirn- '° pis Bt four 'tK'°'"'"°''''"'^^ to a^iHne b rr '' P?" "'* «k, andC/""' the next moruinc. (j °"1 '"'^^ <-?Pt«'n Cook. roots 0*'^" ^- hot/led out. and th'e'mi^- £t ^Sh! * J-^'ttle Annamooka. J Welt io6 CAPTAIN COOK's THIRD VOYAG2. the cki hac hu pet thar hou; \^ and Were came every In party weaki fettled /hip in the ifla and in •weft fide of Annamooka. When he returned, he re- ported that he had founded between Great and Little Annamooka, where he found ten and twelve fathoms depth of water ; that the place was very well flieltefed from winds ; but that no frefh water was to be had but at a confiderable diftance inland, and that even there, it was neither plentiful nor good. For this very fuffi- cient reafon. Captain Cook refolved to anchor on the north fide of the ifland, where, in his lad voyage, he had found a convenient place for watering and larid- Though not above a league dlftant, we did not reach It till about live o'clock in the afternoon, being retarded by the quantity of canoes that crowded round the (hips, laden with abundant fupplies of the produce of their ifland. Several of thefe canoes, which were double, had a large fail, and carried between forty and fiuy men each. Several women too appeared in the canoes, in- cited perhaps by curiofity to vifit us ; though they were as earned in bartering as the men, and ufcd the paddle ■3^^'^^^' with equal fkill and dexterity. We came to an anchor! £^* in eighteen fathoms water, the ifland extending from E. In ^^ J to S. W. about three quarters of a mile diftant. Thus! f"^^ ^ Captain Cook refumed the Ration, which he had oc^u-B!^^^** ^ pied when he vilited Annamooka three years before;! f^ and probably where Tafman, who firll difcovcrcd thisB^"^ , '^ ifland, anchored in 1 640. ^ itoe-kei The next day, during the preparations for watering,l?p^'^ ^ Captain Cook went aftiore in the forenoon, accompa-^ J^^*-> nied by Captain Clerke and others, to fix on a place forMn^^^"^> fctting up the obfervatories, the natives having readllyM ^"^ ^^ granted us permifllon. They (hewed us every mark o» ^^^^ civility, and accommodated us with a boat houfe,whichB °^^ "*^ anfwered the purpofe of a tent. Toobou, the chief ofl^^ ^" the ifland, conduded Captain Cook and Omai to hlsF^f ^ ^" houfe, fituated on a pleafauL fpot, in the centre of hisl i '^ ^ we plantation. It v*ras mrrounded with a grafs plot, whichB/*^^* ^' he faid was for the purpofe of cleanfing their feet, befo Jf^^' ^^ ^" Vol. II. J le re- Little thorns -Itered ad but there, yfuffi- on the ige he 1 laud- 3t reach retarded le (hips, of their ible, had \.f men noes, in- CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. i»7 they entered his habitation. Such an attention to cleanlinefs we had never oblerved before, wherever we had vifited in this ocean ; though we afterwards found it to be very common at the Friendly Iflands. No car- pet in an Englilh drawing-room could be kept neater, than the mats which covered the floor of Toobcu's houfe. While we were on fhore, we bartered for fome hogs and fruit ; and when w^e arrived on board, the (hips were crowded with the natives. As very few of them came empty-handed, we were fpeedily fupplied with every refreftiment. In the afternoon, Captain Cook landed again, with a party of marines ; and fuch of the cattle as were in a weakly (late, were fent on fhore with him. Having fettled every thing to his fatisfadion, he returned to the Ihip in the evening, leaving Mr King in command upon the iflanc!. Taipa was now become our trutty friend, and in order to be near our party, had a houfe carried a 'vver^ ■ quarter of a mile on men's (boulders, and placed by the le P^V^'^lfide of the (lied which our party occupied, in ancrior ■ q^^ various operations on (bore began the next day. > "^J!E?, BSome were bulled in making hay, others in filling our ^* ^^^^ Bwater calks, and a third party in cutting wood. On Lad o^^^'lihe fame day,Me(rrs Kin^ and Bailey began to obferve » '^^^^^^.'Iwiual latitudes of the fun, in order to get the rate of our J,xrcQ ^'^*^ ■time-keepers. In the evening, Taipa harangued the jnatives for fome time ; but w^e could only guefs at the |watenng,Bj|j|jjg^^ and fuppofed he was inftruding them how to c^^'^^lJ.^'Breat us, and advKing them to bring the produce of the place lorBji^jj J to market. His eloquence had the defired efFe which he did nearly to the fame purpofe. Thefe ceremonies over, the chief, at the Captain's re- quetl, conduced him to three ftagnant pools of what he called frefli water ; in one of which riie v^^ater was in- deed tolerable, and the fituation convenient for filling cur cafl^s. On his return to his former flation, he found a baked hog and fome yams',' fmoking hot, ready to be conveyed on board for his dinner. lie invited Feenou, and his friends to partake of the rcpall, and they embarked for the ihip, though none but himfelf "^ fat 'bvvn with us at table. Dinner being over, the Cap- jlain condudicd them on fliore ; and before he returned, I received as a prefent from the chief, a fine large turtle, and a cpiantity of yams. We had a plentiful iupply of provifions, for in the courfe of the day, we got, by bar- Itering with the natives, about twxnity finall hogs, toge- |ther with a large quantity of fruit and roots. On Sunday the 1 8th, earh/ in the morning, Feenou land Omai,who now flcpt on ihore with the chiefiCame lon board, to reciueil Captain Cook's pi efcncc upon the i' z the n8 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. the ifland. He accompanied thcin, and upon landing, was condudled to the place where he had been leated the preceding day, and where he beheld a lar;:;e con- courfe of people already airemhled. Though he im;N gined that fomething extraordinary was in agitation, J^et he could not conjedure what, nor could Omai give lim any information. Soon after he was feated, about an hundred of the natives appeared, and advanced, laden with yams, pliir.- tains, bread fruit, cocoa nuts, and fugar canes ; their burdens were depofited on our left. A number of others arrived foon after, bearing the fame kind of arti- cles, which were colleded into two piles on the right fide. To thefe were fattened two pigs, and half a dozen fowls ; and to thofe upon the left, lix pigs, and two turdes. Earoupa feated himfclf before the articles on the left fide, and another chief before thofe upon the right ; ihey being, it was fuppofed, the* two chiefs who had procured them by order of Feenou,whu was as im- plicitly obeyed here, as he had been at Annamooka, nnd who had probably laid this tax upon the chiefs of Ila- paee for the prefent occafion. When this munificent colledllon of provilions was placed in order, and advantageoully difpofed, ihe bear- ers of it joined the multitude, who formed a circle round the whole. Immediately after, a number of men, arm- ed with clubs, entered this circle, or area ; where they , })araded about for a few minutes, and then one- half oil rliem retired to one fide, and the other half to the other fide, feating themfelves before the fpei^ators. IVefent-l ly after they fucceffively entertained us with (ingle cgni-l bats; one champion from one lide challenging thofe oil the other fide, partly by words, but more by exprtilivjf geftures, to fend one of their party to oppolo hiin.l '1 he challenge was in general accepted ; the two com- batants placed themfelves in proper attitudes, and the engagement began, which continued till one of llieiii| yielded, or till their weapons were broken. At ik tonclufjon of each combat, ihvi viv^cr fciuatted hinifclj dO\Y!I inaing, 1 I'eated ;e con- fitation, t3* ^J^ lai cive of the s ; their nber of . of arti- le iwM a dozen md two deles ou pon the lefs who IS as ini- oka, and .& Ol JL. .4: T_T,. .ia- ons was the bear- ;le round len, arm- lere they le-half oil the other f l-reient- '.gle con^l i]r thofe ot] ixprtfliv'J )0lo hm\ two com- , and the i of ihen^ . At ik ,d hi"^^'^ frcAs H'vat/r .Viivv;-3^'iTifir /// UiSJ? J CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. >Jf down before the chief, then immediately rofc up and retired. Some old men, who Iccmed to prefide as judges, p;ave their plaudit in a very fevv- words ; and the multitude, efpccially thofe on the lide of the conquercr, celebrated the glory he had acquired in two or three Icud huzzas. This entertainment was fonictimcs fufjjended for a iliort fpace, and the intervals of time w?re iillcd up with wrelUinf^ and boxing matches. The firft were perform- ed in the method pradiled at Ofaheite, and the fecond differed very little from the Englifh maimer. A couple of llout wenches next ftcpped forth, and, without cere- mony, began boxing with as much dexterity as the men. This conteft, however, was but of ftiort duration, for, in the fpace of half a minute, one of them gave it up. The vidlorious heroine was applauded by the ,ipe«^ators, in the fame manner as the fuccefsful com- batants of the other fex. Though we exprefled fome (lifapprobation at this part of the entertainment, it did not hinder two other females from entering the lifts ; v.'ho feemed to be fpirited girls, and, if two old women had not interpofcd to part them, would probably have [given each other a good drubbing. At leaft three thou- liand fpcdlators Avcre prefent when thefe combats were [exhibited, and every thing was condu£ted with the moft |perfe The diverfions being liniHicd, tlie chief informed "antain Cook that the prcviiiuns on our right liand ere a prefent to Omai ; and that thofe on our left naking about two thirds of tUj v.'hole quantity) wtr;: pitended for him, and tliat he might fuit his ov/n con- enicncc in taking tiieni on board. Four boar.^ v.tro loac'ed with the muniliccncc of eenou, whole lavours far exceeded any that Captain ok h.ail ever received from the fovereigns of any of lllands which lie havl vifitevl in the Pacific Ocean. le, ihcr vfc re, embraced ih.i iiill opportunity of con- vmcmg 120 CAPTAIN COOK'S TIIIRH VOYAGE. vinclng Feenoii that he was not infenfible of his libera- lity, by beftovving upon him fiich commodiiies as he fuppofed were inoll valuable in his eftimation. Feenou was lo highly nlcafcd with the return that was made him, that he left the Captain dill indebted to him, by fending him two large hogs, Ibme yams, and a conli- derablc quantity of cloth. Fcc:u)u having exprefled a defire to fee the marines perform their exercile, Captain Cook ordered them all alhore on the morning of the 20th of May. After they had gone through various evolutions, and fired fevcral vollies, which fcemed to give pleafure to our numerous fpedlators, the chief, in his turn, entertained us with an exhibition, which was performed with an exadlncfs and dexterity, far furpaflmg what they had feen of our mili- tary manoeuvres. It was a kind of dance, performed by men, in which one hundred and five peribns were en- gaged : each having an inftrument in his hand, refem- bling a paddle, two feet and an half long, with a thin blade, and a fmall handle. With thefe inftruments va- , nous flourilhes were made, each of which was accom- panied with a different movement, or a different attitude lihefcal of the body. At firft, the dancers ranged themfelves inl ThiJ three lines, and fo changed their ftations by differcntM to ur^yf evolutions, that thofe who had been in the rear camcMgular^jl into the front. At one part of the performance, theJafucce/ crctended themfelves in one lin^ j afterwards they formJour entl cd themfelves into a femi-cirde; and then into twoBcon/i/lJ fquare columns. During the laft movement, onjin the of them came forward, and performed an antic dan Jtators. before Captain Cook, with which the entertainmeiiBpieces ol c"<^^^<^^* Beach pi The mufic that accompanied the dances was producefclly • j by two drums, or rather hollow logs of wood, froifflofej^ which they forced fome varied notes by beating on the with two fticks. The dancers, however, did not appei to be much aiTifted or dire* ^ u .* ,> ■V. ■» • ! ¥ •S1| «*• ■S»/j*-«»«. -^ iUsSSitw - : 4 ^'^m CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE;. 123 cent; though perhaps they meant only to difplay the aftonifhing variety of their movements. This famous ballet vyras fucceedi^ by on€ performed by fifteen men ; and though Qjffsa^^bt them were old, time feemed to have robbed tiiamx>fbat little of their agility. They were difpofed in a iip0 of circle, divided at the front. Sometimes they fmjg flowly, in concert with the chorus, making feveral graceful motions with their hands, but differing from thofe of the women ; at the fame time inclining the body alternately to either fide, by raifmg one leg outward, and refting on the other ; the arm of the fame fide being alfo ftretched up- ward. Then they recited fentences, which were an- ifwered by the chorus; and Occafionally increafed the meafure of the dance, by clapping the handsy and fluickening the motions of the reet. Towards the con- [dufion, the rapidity of the mufic and dancing fo much »creafed,that the different movements were hard to be lilin^uifhed. This dance being ended, after a confiderable inter- [?ai, twelve other men advanced, placing themfelves iii [ibuble rows, fronting each other On one fide was lationed a kind of prompter, who repeated feveral fen- ences to which relponfes were made by the perform- fs and the chorus.' They fung and danced flowly j id gradually grew quicker, like thofe whom they had iicceeded. The next who exhibited themfelves were nine wo- |en,who fat down oppofite the hut where the chief had iced himfelf. A man immediately rofe, and gave the " of thefe women a blow on the back with both his joined. He treated the fecond and third in the le manner ; but when he came to the fourth, he ick her upsn the bread. Upon feeing this, a perfbn jftantly rifing up from among the crowd, knocked him Bwn with a blow on the head, and he was quietly tried away. But this did aot excufe the other five iromeji from fo extraordinary a difcipline 5 for they^ iVol. II.—N*' 29. Q^ were r?»i^ tu CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. were treated in the fame manner by a perfon who fuc- ceeded him. When thefe nine women danced, t)ieii performance was twice difapproved of, and they were obliged to repeat it again. There was no great differ- ence between this dance and that .of the firll women, except tha* thefe fometimes raifed the body upon one leg and then upon the other, alternately, by a fort of | double motion. Socn after a perfon unexpectedly entered, making fome ludicrous remarks on the fireworks that had been I exhibited, which extorted a burft of laughter from the crowd. We had then a dance by the attendants of Feenou : they formed a double circle of twenty-four f each round the chorus, and joined in a gentle foothing fong, accompanied with motions of the head and hands. They alfo began with flow movements, which gra-l dually became more and more rapid, and finally clofedl with feveral very ingenious tranfpoiitions of the two| circles. Thefeflivity of this memorable night concluded will a dance, in which the principal people affifted. Ii many refpeds it reilmbled the preceding ones, but thej increafed their motions to a prodigious quicknefs, fha^ king their heads from fhoulder to (boulder, infomud that they appeared in danger of diflocating their necksj This was attended with a clapping of the hands, and kind of favage holla ! or Ihriek. A perfon, on one fide| repeated fomething in a truly mufical recitative, an^ with an air fo graceful, as might put fome of our ap- plauded performers to the bluih. He was anfwered bj another, and this was repeated feveral times by thj whole body on each fide ; and they finifhed by finginj and dancing, as they had begun. The two lafl dances were univerfally approved by al the fpedators. They were perfedily m time, and fomj of their geftures were fo expreffive, that it might juftlj be faid, they fpoke the language that accompaniel them. Th CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. US making lad been rom the iants of nty-four foothing d hands. ich gra- lly clofed the two The theatre for thefe performances was an open fpace among the trees, bordering on the fea, with lights, placed at fmall intervals, rouii^i the infide of the circle. I Though the concourfe of people was pretty large, their inumber was much inferior to that aflembled in the jaftemoon, when the marines performed their exercifc. At that time many of our gentlemen fuppofed there might be prefent five thoufand perfons, or upwards ; but Captain Cook fuppofes that to be rather an exagge«. rated account. > JH I ided will [led. Ii butthe^ eis, fha^ infomud eir necks) ds, and onefidel ^tive, aiS )f our aj fwered U :s by thj iy fingins CLa Cafta'm «>.. 12$ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. i Captain Cook makes an Excurjion into Lefooga — De/cription oj . thatlJJand — Occurrences there — A falfe Report propagatec — A Female Oculi/i — Singular Method of Jhaving — The Ships are removed to another Station — A remarkable arti^ Jicial Mount and Stone — Defer ipiion ofHoolaiva — Account of Poulaho^King of the Friendly Ifles-^The Commodore ac^ companies him on Shore — Departure from the Hapace IJJands — Kotoo defcribed — The Ships return to Annamooka — Meeting of Poulaho and Feenou — Both the Ships flriki on the Rocks-^ Arrival at Tongatal^oo, THE next day, which was the 2 ift of May, Captair Cook made an excurfion into the Ifland of Lefoo ga on foot, which he found to be in fome refpeds fupeJ rior to Annamooka, the plantations being not only morJ numerous, but aUb more extenfive. Many parts oj the country, near the fea, are ftill wade ; owing, perl haps, to the fandinefs of the foil. But in the internal parts of the ifland the foil is better ; and the marks ol confiderable population, and of an improved ftate oj cultivation, are very confpicuous. Many of the plantaj tions are enclofed in fuch a manner, that the fencesf running parallel to each other, form fpacious publij roads. Large foots, covered with the paper mulberr] trees, were obferved; and the plantations in generg were abundantly flocked with fuch plants and fruij trees as the ifland produces. To thefe the Commodorl made fome addition, by fowing the feeds of melonl pumpkins, Indian corn,occ. At one place was a houff about four times as large as the ordinary ones, with ai extenfive area of grafs before it, to wnich the peoplj probablf I probi Jandi] I high, the b( rerred bread! eafl fi which nuatio but ha vvalk I] liliore ij VVh( K'ent Q to the i liboula, laft vo) pofed b not be p fitting I] rhe ifla a title w [Feenou, ipeare( I the )ard thi liefs toi The igand feliring Jtting tl Fed. * In CaJ lief is h\i om Latool |ie to be ti •i* rank on CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 127 riplhn 0^ able arti —Accoun ^lodore ac e Hapaci innamooh hifs Jlrih probably refort on feme public occafions. Near the landing place we obferved a mount two or three feet high, on which flood four or live little huts, wherein the bodies of fome perfons of diftin£lion had been in- terred. The ifland is but feven miles in length ; and its breadth in fome places is not above three miles. The eaft lidc has a reef, projcdling confiderably, againft which the fea breaks with great violence. It is a conti- nuation of this reef that joins Lcfoogato Foa, which is but half a mile diftant ; and at low water the natives can walk upon this reef from one illand to the other. The (liore is either a landy beach or a coral rock. When the Ciptain returned from his excurfion, and w^ent on board, he found a large failing canoe faftened to the ftern of the Refolution. In this canoe was Latoo- liboula, whom the Commodore had feen, during his '^-^^^ laft voyage, at 1 ongataboo, and who was then fup- ^- pofed by him to be the king of that ifland.* He could not be prevailed upon to come on board, but continued fitting m his canoe with an air of uncommon gravity. The iflanders called him Areekee^ which fignities King ; la title which we had not heard any of them give to nly momFeenou, however extenfive his authority over them had parts oBppeared to be. Latooliboula remained under the ftern "ul the evening, and then dv^parted. Feenou was on ard the Refolution at that time ; but neither of thefe iefs took the fmalleft notice of the other. The next day fome of the natives ftealing a tarpawl- igand other things, Captain Cook applied to Feenou, leliring him to exert his authority, for tlie purpofe of itting them reftored \ but this application was d' no ^, Captal of Lefo »eds fupe probablj * In Captain Cook's narrative of that vo'/age, the nameof thi^ [lief is faid to be Kohagee'too Fallangouy which is totally different m Latooliboula. This may perhaps be accounted for by fuppofing lie to be the name of the perfon, and the other the defipription of Ui tank or title. •f;* US CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. pHe the) tedi( to f failoi the r on hi Ca the if termi: rerurr ftili n 26th, iOand, by, tf] On the 2'^d,as wc were preparing to leave the iflanci, Feenou and his prime miniiler Taipa came alongfidc in a canoe, and informed us that tlicy were goine to Vavaoo, an ifland fitiiate, as they fald, ahout two days Ikil to the northward of Hapace. They aflured us, that the objcdl of their voyage was to procure for us an ad- *»i:ional fuppiy of hogs, befides foine red-feathered caps for Omai to carry with him to Otaheite ; and defired "US not to fail till their return, v/hich would be in four or five days ; after which Feenou would accompany us to Tongataboo. Captain Cook confented to wait the rerurn of this cliief, who immediately let out for Vavaoo. On the 24th, a report bou 'the Bthe fouth of Lefooga, and there anclioreJ. We had no ) receive Biooner call anchor, than Mr Bligh, Mafter of the Relo- ippeared, Blution, was fent to found the bay v.- here we were now >n. It is Bftationed ; and Captain Cook accompanied by Lieu- ention of Btenant Gore, landed on thefouthern pare of Leiooga,to was con-Blook for frelh water, and exam'ne the country. OnThc "weft fide of the illand, tbey obferved an artihcial n"uount if coniiderable antiquity, about forty feet high, and to ahoufcBmeafuring lifty feet in the diameter of its fumniit. At the hild whoBl)ottom of this mount was a ttone fourteen feet high,two is femalelnd a half thick, and four broad, hewn out of coral rock ; id they were informed by the iflanders, that not more m half its length was feen above ground. Tliey called fangaia Arccksc"^', and faid it had heen fet up, and the lOunt faifed, in memory of one ot their kings. Oa the preach of night, the Captain and Mr Gore returned I board, and Mr Bligh came back irom founding the iy,in which he found from fourteen to twenty faihcms ater, w^ith a bottom principally of -land. ' Lefooga and Koolaiva aic feparated from each other by yfangata^ ill the language of thefc people, is man; Areda^ k ;*ll ,3, CArrMNCOOKVrniRDVOYAGE.^^^^^^ U a reefof cor.lnKks,dry at low^atcr.^^.Jo^^^^^^^ gLllemcn who Unded m the ^^ ^^ „, habitatmn l(,\ind not the ''"^ !'='^,X,t in which a man employed upon it, except a hnfil; h" ; f ^f^ •,, remarkable that « ,0 catch fift> and «t"^.'l«/«.»^"'- ,o„dition, fmce 't com- Ihould remain in this df iolate J^"- ' hkhis fo well municates ib imiriediately with Letoog , I cSed. The weft ^^^ "J '' Tand t\,e eaft fide h»s We feem«tobeBO^-n'=ho^a?e f.^^j asHoolaiva J 3reef,aswcUa.Lcfoog.. U ^^.,.^^j ^p„„ ,t, equal ui an artificial moimi "J j:n„trees. ^ I Light to feme of the f"/ »'""f '''? „£ day, the CommoJ , C)n TueCday the ^7*'^^^/Xrand as^he intended tc dore made the hgnal %^^'|^' , paffage to Anna attempt, in his ^^''JZSAetmcA^m 'M mooka, by the S. \f ^'"'"/K ^j before the (hips. , Eu fent Mr bligh m » 'f ^5 ° ^'^wind became fo varjaW before we got ^'^^^llf'Tmxhk to attempt a pafid and unfettled, as to "L'^^^rl^^.quainted : we therefoJ t-ith which ™%^^J? fal for theVfter to return, rf lay fall, and made ^gf ' ^ ' were atterwards feni and the MaUer oij^l^^l^^ channels. Towarj each in a boat, ? J^for the firft time ackntl longed toPoulaho; and "°' ,?° ki„g, but a fubordml Sed, that Feenou waB^o the bng,^ ^^^ ^^^ ., J chief,thoughpf great power. 1 ^^^ ^^ „„J by the Cautam on hoard, ^^«^ n ^^^ j^^^ i come gueft, as i^^T,^°Xtperfonage, though not j wayofprefent. ^''J'&.and almoft ftapclef? ^ '^;;;^'t'^A be about forty, hiai '■' ■*' CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. »3t I was ftraight, and K\s features conliderablv dirT.icnt from thofe of the majority of his people. \Vc found him to he a man of gravity and good fcnfe. He viewed the ihip, and the various new objej^s, with particular at- tention ; and afked many pertinent queftions. When he had gratified his curioiity in looking at the cattle, and other novelties, he was rcquefted to walk down into the cabin ; to which fome of his retinue obje«5led, fay- ing, that, if he (hould go down thither, it would doubt- Ids happen that people would walk over his head ; a circumllance that could not be permitted. Though [the Captain offered to obviate this objcdlion, by order- ing that no one fhould prefume to walk over the cabin, ?*oulaho waved all ceremony, and went down without by previous ftipulation. He now appeared to be no Icfs lolicitpus.than his people were,'to convince us that Itie was fovereign, and not Feenou. He fat down to Idinr -with us, but eat and drank very little ; andalter- Iwa ^efired our Commodore to accompany him on Iftice. Omai wasaflced to be one of the party ; but he Iwas too faithfully attached to Feenou, to fhcw much jrcrpcdt to his competitor, and therefore declined the in- vitation. Captain Cook attended the chief in his own boat, having lirft made him fuch prefents as exceeded liisexpedtaiions ; in return for which, Poulaho ordered Rwo more hogs to be lent on board. The chief was kn carried out of the boar, by his own fubjcdls, on (board refembling a hand barrow ; and immediately (eated himfelf in a fmall houfe near the fiiore. He iced the Captain at liis fide ; and his attendants form- [da fcmi-circle before ihem, on the cutfiJe of the houfe. In old woman fat clofe to the chief, with a kind of fan iher hand, to prevent his being incommoded by the pies. The various articles which his people had pro- ured by trading on board the (hips, being nowdifplay- hefore him, he attentively looked over them all, Bquired what they had given in exchange, and, at : rtgth, ordered every thing to be returned to the refpec* j. fve owners, except a glafs-bowl, which he refervcd fo> Vol. II. N^ 29. R himfelf. IpRS m Hft mWm ijil'- W^M m i^ii BB i^i CA: tain COOK'S THIRD VOTA(i£. bui fon ( brei low Pou himfelf. Thofe who brought thefe things to him, firlt fquatted themfelves down before him, then depofited their purchafes, and inftantly rofe and retired. They obferved the fame ceremony in taking them away ; and not one of them prefumed to fpeak to him landing. His attendants, juft before they left him, paid him obeifance, by bowing their heads down to the fole oflcnq his foot, and touching it with the upper and under frdcB^^" of the fingers of each hand. Captain Cook was charmed gj ^^^ with the decorum ^hat was maintained on this occafion,BreprJ having fcarce feen the like any where, even among ■ he w more civilized nations. Bfor, c When the Captain arrived on board, he found the? Band ^ Mafter returned from his expedition, who informed ■'^i^h him, that, as far as he had proceeded, there was a pafTagc m^^^ for the fhips, raid tolenblo anchorage; but that, to-"''^'"'^ wards the S. and S. E. he obferved numerous fhoals^ breakers, and fmall ifles. In confequence of this report, we relinquilhed all thoughts of a paflage that way ; and being relolved to return tc Annamooka by the fame route which we had fo lately experienced to be a fafe one, we fhould L-^ve failed the next morning, which was the 28th, if the wind had not been very unfettled. Poulaho came early on board, bringing a red feathered came, others atC IThis i ey b him Intl ■eih I we cap as a prefent to Captain Cook. Thefe caps werefched the dgoi ithom; brea .otoo, greatly fought after by us, as we knew they would be highly valued at Otaheite : but not one was ever brought for fale, though very large prices were offered ; nor{ could a perfon in either fhip make himfelf the pro prietor of one, except the two Captains and Omai. They are compofed of the tail featliers of the tropicfc da bird, intermixed with the red feathers of the parroquetj] and are made in fuch a manner, ac to tie on the foreheai without any crown, and have the form of a femi-circle, whofe radius is eighteen or twenty inches. Butth beft idea of them will be conveyed by Mr Webber' reprefentalion of Poulaho, ornamented with one of theft caps or bonnets. The chief left the (hip in the evening bvi conv ing dfoi fof] roac ■ough. { and pe dm, firft lepofited i. They ^ay; and landing. )aid him CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 133 but his brot!ier whofe name alfo was Futtafaihe, and fome of his attendants, remained all night on board. On the 29th at day break, we weighed with a fine breeze at IL N. E. and made fail to the weftward, fol- lowed by feveral failing canoes, in one of which was Poulaho the king, who, getting on board the Refolution, \t fole of B enquired for his brother, and the others who had con- mdcr fldcB^^"^'^ ^^^^ "^ ^^^ night. We now found that they had , charmed B^^^^ without his permiffion, for he gave them fuch a 'occafion ■ reprimand as brought tears from their eyes: however, 'n amoneH^^ ^^^ ^^^^ reconciled to their making a longer ftay ; ■for, on his departure from the fhip, he left his brother, found th^W"^ ^^^^ attendants, on board. We were alfo honoured informed r^^^ ^^^ company of a chief named Tooboueitoa, juft 18 a paffaecB^^'^ arrived from Tongataboo ; who, as foon as he t tlwit to-t'^^> ^^^^ away his canoe, declr ring, that he, and five "others who came with him, would fleep on board ; fo at Captain Cook now had his cabin filled with vifitora^ his inconvenience he the more v^Hingly endured, as ey brought with them plenty of provifions as prefent^ him, for which they met with fuitable returns. ^ In the aft srnoon the eafterly wind was fucceeded by a rv unfettled,B[^^ breeze at S. S. E. Our courfe being now S. S. 4 feathered^' ^^ ^^ve obliged to ply to windward, and barely Itched the northern fide of Footooha by eight o'clocK the evening. The ixext day we plied up to Lofanga, id got foundings, under the lee or N. W. fide, in forty ihoms water ; but the bottom being rocky, and a chain breakers lying to leeward, we ftretched away foi otoo, expeAing to find better anchorage there. It f**\he trop'icB^'i^r^ before we reached that ifland, where finding narroquetS convenient place to anchor in, we pafled the night ia 1 ^ , *'king (hort boards. On the 31ft, at break of day, we od for the channel v/hich is between. Kotoo, and the f of rocks lying to the weftward of it ; but, on our roach, we found the wind infufficient to lead us ough. We therefore bore up on the outfide of the f, and ftretched to the S. W. till near twelve o'clock, n,perceiving that we made no progrefs to windward, R 2 mi :ou8 fhoals^ this report, t way ; and ly the fame to be a fafe Ving. which e caps were ;y would be ver brought ffered ; nor If the pro-i and On>ai. [he forehead femi-circlej is. But the [r Webber I joneofthcfd the evening; \ . ... ■«34 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. \ and being apprehenfive of Icfing the iflands while we had fo many of the natives on board, we tacked and flood back, and fpent the night between Footooha and Kotoo. Tlie wind now blew frefh, with fqualls and| rain ; and, during the night, the Relblution, by a fmai tliange of the wind, fetching too far to the windward was very near running full upon a low fandy ifle, name Pootoo Pootooa, encompafled with breakers. Our peo pie having fortunately been juft ordered upon deck, t put the fhip about, and moft of them being at their refpec tive nations, the neceflary movements were performe with judgment and alertnefs ; and this alone preferve us from deftrudion. The Difcovery, being aftern, in curred no danger. * This narrow cfcape fo alarmed the natives who wer| on board, that they were eagerly defirous of gcttin afhore : accordingly, on the return of day light, a bo was hoifted out, and the officer who commanded h was ordered, after landing them at Kotoo, to found fc anchorage along the reef that projects from that iflani During the abfence of the boat, we endeavoured totu the (hips thrrugh the cliannel between the reef of Kot and the fandy ifle ; but meeting with a ItroUg curre againft us, we v/cre obliged to defift, and caft anchor fifty fathoms water, the fandy ifle bearing E. by chout the diilance of one mile. Here we remained ti the 4th of June, being frequently vifited by the king, ■Iron Tooboueitoa, and by people who came from the neigHlaJeii boiiring iflands to traffic with us. Mr Bligh was, intHlii;n menu time, difpatchcd to found the channels betwemdhj the illands (ituate to the callward; and Captain CoBbd himfelf landed on Koroo, to take a furvey of it. Tmrcdil iuuiid, en account of the coral reefs that environ ir»iiai; fcarccly a'^ceflible by boats. Its N. W. end is low; iBperhJ it rifts fuddenly in the middle, and terminates at thcHrav.J E. end in rcddifii clayey cliiFs. It produces the faBli'icrci fruirs anri- roots with the adjacent iflands, and i^- tclcraBliis \\\ i / ( V tr th ea gc ob Oil] wc ag the plac I)Llt beer plan dk'u cultivated, though thinly inhabited. It 13 auou- t wiles in Ien;.'.h. While the Cc.T.modorc was v/alk ^! 10 E. i while wcl lacked andl jtooha andl fqualls andl by a fmallf windward] ille, named Our peoJ )on deck, to[ their refpecj e performed ne preferved ig aftern, inl res who werl as of gettini r light, a bo: nmanded h ^ to found f( im that illani ,rourcd to tiv M-eefof Koti hong currei caft anchor ing E.. 1^7 , e remained t jy the king J •om the neig T]ghwa5,'mt fnnels hetwe . Captain Co leyoiit. fi Lt environ ii nd is low ; \ linatcs at the iduces the H and i^> tclcral t 13 abou-^^t; ,rc was v;au<' CAPTAIN C00K*8 THIRD VOYAGE. «35 all over it, our people were occupied in cutting grafs for the cattle ; and we planted fome melon feeds. On our return to the boat, we pafled by fome ponds of dirty brackifli water, and faw a burying place, which was confiderahly neater than thofe or Hapaee. We weighed in the morning of the 4th, and, with a freOi gale at E. S. E. made fail towards Annamooka, v/ here we anchored the next morning, nearly in the fame ftation which we had fo lately occupied. Captaia Cook foon after w^ent on fhore, and found the iflanders very buly in their plantations, digging up yams for traffic. In the courfe of the day, about two hundred of them aflembled on the beach, and traded with great eagernefs. It appeared, that they had been very dilli- gent, during our abfence, in cultivating ; for we now obferved feveral large plantain fields, in places which, in our late vifit, we had ieen lying waue. The yams were now in the higheft perfedlion ; and we obtained a good quantity of them, in exchange for iron. Before the Captain returned c ^ board, he vifited the feveral places where he had fown melon and cucumber feeds ; but found, to his great regret, that moft of thei liad been deftroyed by vermin ; though fome pine-apple plants, which he had alfo left| were in a thriving con- dition. • •' ■. . .. : On Friday the 6th, about noon, Fcenou arrived from Vavaoo, and informed us, that feveral canoes laden with hogs and other provifions, had failed with liiinfrom that ifland, but had been loft in the late tem- pelhious weather, and every perfon on board of them had perifhed. This melancholy tale did not gain much credit with us, as we were by this time fufliciently ac- ([iiainted with the charader of tlie relater. The truth erhaps was, that he had been unable to procure at |\':ivano the expected fupplies ; or, if he obtained any |lht:re, that he had left them at Hapaee, which lay in way hack, and where lie muft have licard that Pou- ikho had coiue to vilit us ; who, therelore, he knew wpuld. £iz: i' 136 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE, would, as his fuperior, reap all the merit and reward of procuring thefe fuppjies, without having had any par- ticipation of the trouble. The invention, however, of this lofs at fea was not ill imagined ; for we had lately had very ftormy weather. On the fucceeding morn* ing, Poulaho, and fome other chiefs, arrived ; at which time Captain Cook happened to be afhore with Fecnou, who now appeared to be fenfible of the impro- priety of his conduct, in arrogating a character to which he had no jufl: claim ; for he not only acknow- ledged Poulaho as fovereign of Tongataboo and the a(tj;icent iflcs, bat affected to infill much on it. The Captain left him, and went to pay a vrTit to the king, whom he found fitting with a few of the natives before him ; but great numbers haftening to pay their refpeds to him, the circle increafed very faft. When Feenou approached, he placed himfelf among the reft that fat before Poulaho, as attendants on his majefty. He at firft feemed to be fomewhat confufed and abafhed ; but ibon recovered from his agitation. Some converfation pafied between thefe two chiefs, who went on board with the Captain to dinner ; but only Poulaho fat at table. Feenou, after having made his obeifance in the j iifual mode, by fainting the foot of his fovereign with his head and hands, retired from the cabin ; and it now appeared, that he could neither eat nor dVink in thc| king's prefence. On the 8th, we weighed anchor, and fteered for Ton- 1 gataboo, with a gentle breeze at N. F. We were ac- companied by fourteen or fifteen failing veflels belong- ing to the iilanders, every one of which out-ran the fhips.l The royal cance v.^is vlidinguifhed from the reft by a fmall bundle of grafs, of a red colour, fattened to the end of a pole, and fixed in the ftern of the canoe in the fame manner as our enfign ftaffs. At five in the aftcr-l noon w^ defcried two fmall iflands, at the diftanceofj four leagues to the weftward ; one was called Hoongaf Hapaee, and the other Hoonga Tonga. They arcl fituated of 20 d. 36 m. S. about ten leagues from the wefteri^ I ...J proceeded on a s wr ~ r ~ *^* ';!urin. wit- everal little iflandsf h^A^ f^ -^ 'he Vth few boo appeared. WehaH «,2- • '^" ^°°» and Toneata- Kater.'lhe bottom conlift^^^^^^^^ and the depth gradu^^efrid .? ""'"^ '"^ ^^"^ the above-mentioned fmall ifle 'c;f '^'^ aPProached redjop of our pilots, fe the WlH ftT^ l^X t!»e Kd. Wethretfw'3t'l'ft^-/anchtrinJ |en we anchored in nZJfl' "'^ '^""^ '" ''" dark, h bottom. Durin^^hi''*"/"* ^ater, with a clear f «riy in the .nor"," fg.^'^^ £Vr '"''•^""'^ "b andbnnging on fa!?* we'the? wr^-'^S '""A^* Norked towards thcOK)reof T. '^I'S'^^d again, K : here plying up to the harbonr^^^f ?''°°- ^hile h round tTs iS bis canoe and ^f ^"g continued - k was a great number of Vm,?! ' ""* '^'"^ time h T^oofthefcnotgettinSom'fT'' "''°"' 'he I '»*"'"£ out of the way of his royal 13^ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. royal veflel, he ran quite over them with the greateft unconcern. Among thofe who came on board the Re- iblution, was Otago, who had been fo ufeful to Captaia Cook when he vifited Tongataboo in his laft voyage ; and one Toobou, who had at that time attached him-i felf to Captain Furneaux. Each of them brought fome yams and a hog, in teftimony of friendfhip ; for which they received a fuitable return. We arrived at our intended ftation about two o'clock in the afternoon of the i oth of June. It was a very] convenient place, formed b\' the fhore of Tongatabool on the S. E. and two little ifles on the E. N. E. Here! both our (hips anchored over a fandy bottom, where] the depth oi water was ten fathoms. Our diftance froi the fhore exceeded a quarter of a mile. ieri fadli Exbi of A '■-■♦> . I'. , favourah arge cu ited t\ Want b( plit int( fexes, wl fcf their f • » / . CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 139 favourable Reception at Tongaiaboo — Difiributlon of Pork^ Tarns, and Kava amon^ the Kings Attendants — The Ships fuppiied with Water-^The Obfervatory ere6led — The JVj- tives fiock to our People from all garters — Excurjion of our Captains to fee Mareewagee — Their Difappointment '-'Defcription of the Village where the Chiefs nfide — In- terviews with Mareewagee and Toubou — Prefcntsfrom the King's Son — A curious Work gf Art — Procefs of Manu^ fa6luring Cloth — A grand Haiva given by Mareewagee — Exhibition of Fire-works — Wrefiling — Boxing — Prefents of Animals to the Chiefs — Poulaho^ Ftenou, ^c, cofifined — The King* s Prefent and Haiva, ',. , •> [TTE had not been long at anchor olTTongataboo, VV when Captain Cook landed on the ifland, ac- Jcompanied by ibme of the officers and Omai. They Ifouiid the king waiting for them on the beach, who |tondudled them to a fmall neat houfe near the woods, dth an extenfive area before it, and tckl the Captain, jiiat it was at his fervice during his continuance in the d. Before they had been long in the houfe, a krge circle of the natives aflembled before them, and ated themfelves upon the area. A root of the kava klant being brought to the king, he commanded it to be ipllt into pieces, and diftributed to feveral people of both kes, who began to chew it, and foon prepared a bowl lof their favourite liquor. Mean whiie, a baked hog, lid a quantity of baked yams, were produced, and di- liiled into ten portions. Thefe fhares were given to be of thofe who were prefenr^ except one, which re- aincd undifpofed of, and which was probably refer v- ^ Vol. 11.-N- 30. ^ S ed M* CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. cd for the king hlmfelf. The liquor was next fcrvedl out ; and the nrfl: cup being brought to his majefly, hel ordered it to be given to a pcrlbn who fat near him : thel fecond was aho brought to him, which he kept: thj third was given to Captain Cook ; but their ^ mode oj preparing the liquor having given him a diftate for it] It was brought to Omai. 1 he remainder of it was difj tributed to the different people ; and one of the cups being carried to Poulaho s brother, he retired with this] . and with his fliare of the provifions. Some others alfd withdrew from the circle with their portions, becaufJ they could neither eat nor drink in his majefty's pre] fence : but there were others of an inferior rank, of botH fexes, who both eat and drank before him. Soon afterj wards the greater part of them went away, carrying with them what they had not eat of their mare of tht; feall. It is worthy of remark, that the fervants wIk diftributed the meat and the kava, delivered it fitting! not only to the king, but to the others. Captain Cook, before he returned on board, went h fearch of a watering place, and was condudled to fomi ponds, in one of which the water was tolerable, but il was at fome diftance inland. Being informed that thL imall ifland of Pangimodoo, near which *^'e (hips werB^ '^' Rationed, could better fupply this important article, hw^*^^^ . went over to it the next morning, and found there K^f^^^^ pool containing freiher water than any he had met wit| among thel'e iflands. This pool being extremely dirt) he caufed it to be cleaned ; and here it was that we fi| led our water cafk*. The fame morning a tent wi pitched near the houfe which the king had affigned fq our ufe. Tlie horfes, catde, and (heep, were then lane cd, and a party of marines ftationed there as a guarJ ITie obfervatory was fet up at an inconfiderable diftanJ from the other tent ; and Mr King took up his rel^ dence on (hore, to dire<5t the obfervations, and fuperii| tend all other neceffary bufmefs. A party was occupifl in cutting wood for fuel, and planks for the ftiips ; an the gunners were appointed to conduct the traffic wij m E. CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 141 him: the kept: thiij \ mode bte for it it was dif. the cup I with this others air( 18, becauft jeft"^r's pre- ^* a ** K r^ inhabitants, who flocked from all parts of the ifland ajelly, hel^,|(h hogs, yams, cocoa nuts, and other articles, info- Imuch that our land ftation refembled a fair, and our hips were remarkably crowded with vilitants. Feenou ending in our neighbourhood, we had daily proofs of is opulence and generofity, by the continuance of is vahiable donations. Poulaho was ec^ually attentive I us in this refpeft, as fcarcely a day palled without his youring us with confiderable prefents. We were now itormed that a perlbn of the name of Mareewagee was if very high rank in the ifland, and was treated with f K rf^*^ reverence ; nay, if our interpreter Omai did not nk, 01 DO^mifunderftand his informers, that he was fuperior to Soon aiteWp^i^j^Q himfelf ; but that, being advanced in years, he , ^ £. , Jved in retirement, and therefore was not inclined to hare 01 ^j^Jay us a vifit. This intelligence exciting the curiofity I^'^^^r ^W Captain Cook, he figniiied to Poulaho his intention ;d It "ttmgj^j^jjjj^g upon Miireewagee ; and the king having a- . Breed to accompany him, they fet out the next morn- [TQ, went ^mgin the pinnace, Captain Clerke joining them in one w ^K ^'■^^^^ own boats. They proceeded to the eaftward of rable, but i»g n^^jg jH^g ^j^jd^ foi-m the harbour, and then, turn- ^^.f^Bg towards the S. entered a fpacious bay, up which z ihips^^^^Bgy rowed about three miles, and landed amidA a great t article, n»jj^Qyj.fg of people, who received them with fhouts 1 j^I,i* l^wS acclamations. The crowd inftantly feparated, that ulaho might pais, who took our gentlemen into a llenclofure, and changed the piece of cloth he wore, anew piece, very neatly folded : an old woman af- ied in dreflfing him, and put a large mat over his h. Being now afked where Mareewagee was, he , to the great furprize of the gentlemen, that he gone down to the fhips. However, he requefted 1 to accompany him to a malaee, or houfe of public rt; and when they came to a large area before it, he ed himfelf in the path, while they, at his defire, Iked up to the houfe, and fat down in the front, ler waiting a little while, they repeated their enqui- by the medium of Omai, whether tliey were to be S 2 Intro lad met wit :mely dirt that we ill a tent w affigned f( e then lani as a guan faWe diftani up his reil ind fuperi as occupi {hips ; ai ie traffic wii 142 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. hi ' "^ introduced to Marecwagee ? But receiving no fatisfac^ tory anfwer, and being inclined to rufi)e£l that the aged chief was purpofely concealed from them, they return] cd to their boats much piqued at their difappointmenfl It afterwards appeared, that Marecwagee had not beeif there ; and that, in this affair, feme grvifs miftakes ha( been made, Omai cither having been mifmformed, ol havinc^ mifunderftood what was told him concerniD[ the old chief. The place our gentlemen went to w^as a very pleafan village, delightfully fituated on the banks of the bayi inlet, where moft of the principal perlons of the iflanj re fide. Each of thcfe has his houfe in the midft ofl fmall plantation, with a kind of out-honfes, and officf for iervants. Thefe plantations are neatly fenced rounj and in general have only one entrance, which is b) door faftened on the infide with a prop of wood. B| tween each plantation there are public roads and m row lanes. A confiderable part of fome of thefc encll fures is laid out in grafs- plots, and planted with M things as feem lefs adapted for ufe than for ornamef In fuch other plantations as were not the relidencel perfons of high rank, every article of the vegetable pf duce of the illand was in great plenty.' Near the piJ lie roads are fome large houfes,with fpacious grafs-p| before them, which were faid to belong to the king,; are probably the places where their public meetings | On Friday the 1 3th, about twelve o'clock, Mareej gee came within a Imall diftance of our poll on fhj attended by a great number of people of all ranks. the courfe of the afternoon the two Captains, and ot| of cjr gentlemen, accompanied by Feenou, went , " to vifit him. They found a perfon litting under a I with a piece of cloth, about forty yards long, fpreacf fore him, round which numbers of people were ki They imagined that this was the great perfonage,! were undeceived by Feenou, who informed them,f another, who was ntting on a piece of mat, was Mi »^ v^ m CAPTAIN COOK'6 THIRD VOYAGE. M3 wagce. To him they were introduced by Feenou ; and he received theiti very gracioufly, and defired them to fit down by him. The .chief who fat under the tree, was namecf Toohou, whom we fliail for the future call Old Tor ')ou, to diftinguifli him from his namefake, who has been already mentioned as Capt. Furneaux's friend. Both he and Mareewagee were venerable in their ap- pearance. The latter was (lender in bis perfon, and i'eemed to be near fevcnty years of age. Old Tooboii was fomewhat corpulent, and almoft blind from a dif- order in his eyes : he was younger than Mareewagee. Captain Cook, not expeding on this occafion to meet with two chiefs, had brought on (horc a prefent for one only : this, therefore, he was obliged to divide between them ;*but as it happened to be confiderable, both of them appeared to be fatibfied. Our party now enter- tained them about an hour with the performance of two French horns and a drum ; but the firing cfF a piflol that Captain Gierke had in his pocket, feemed to pleafe them moft. Before our gentlemen took their leave of the two chiefs, the large piece of cloth was rolled up, and prefcnted to Captain Cook, together with a tew cocoa nuts. The next morning. Old Toobou came on board to return the Commodore's vifit : he alfo vifited Captain Gierke ; and if our former prefent was not fufficiently confiderable, the deficiency was now fupplied. In the mean time, Mareewagee went to fee our people who were ftationed on fhore ; and Mr King fliewed him whatever we had there. He was ftruck #ith admira- tion at the fight of the cattle ; and the crofs-cut faw rivetted his attention. Towards noon, Poulaho came on board, bringing with him his fon, who was about twelve years of age. He dined \irith Captain Cook ; but the fon, though prefent, was not permitted to fit down with him. I'he Captain found it very convenient to have him for his gueft ; for, whenever he was prefent, (which was frequently the cafe) every other native was excluded from the table, and few of them would con- tinue •44 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 4 tinue in the eabin : whereas, if neither he nor Feenou were on board, the chiefs of inferior rank were very im- portunate to be of the dining party, or to be aihnitted at that time into the cabin, which became confequently very much crowded. 'I'he king was foon reconciled to our cookery, and was fond of our wine. He now re- fided at the inalaee near our tent, where he this evening entertained our people with a dance, in which he him- felf, though fo corpulent and unwieldy, engapjed. On the 15th Captain Cook received a meflage from Old Toobou, importing, that he was defirous of feeing him on fliore. He and Omai accordingly waited on tliat chief, whom they found fitting, like one of the an- cient patriarchs, under the (hade of a tree, vAth. a large piece of cloth, the manufadure of the iiland, fpread out before him. He defired them to place themlelvcs by him ; after which he told Omai, that the cloth, witli fome cocoa nuts, and red feathers, confiituted his prefent to Capt. Cook. The latter thanked him for the donation, and requefted him to go on board with him. Omai, be- ing fent for by Poulaho, now left the Captain, who was informed by Feenou, that young Fattafaihe, the king's fon, defired to fee him. He immediatly obeyed the fum- mons, and found the young prince and Omai feated under a canopy of fine cloth.with a piece of a coarfer kind, feventy-ux yards lonp:, and feven and a half broad, fpread before them and under them. On one fide was a quantity of cocoa nuts ; and, on the other, a large boar. A multitude of people fat round the cloth •,, and among them was Mareewagee, with other perfons of rank. The Captain was requtftcd to feat himlelf by the prince; and then Qmai informed him, that he had been in- ftruded by Poulaho to tell him, that as his MajeftVand the Captain were friends, he hoped that his fqi^ Fatta- faihe might be comprehended in this friendftjip ; and that the Captain, as a teftimony of his conf^nt, would accept of the prince's prefent. Captain Cook readily agreed to this propofal, and invited them alUo dine with \iva\ on board. Accordingly, the young* prince, Old ToobouJ CAPTAIN C00K*8 THIRD VOYAGE. M5 Toobou, Mareewaj^ee^ three or four fubordinate chiefs, and two old ladies of high rank, accompanied the Com- modore to the (hip. Marecwagee was dreHed in a new piece of cloth, with fix patches of red feathers on the ikirta of it. This drcfs was probably m^Je on purpofe for this vifit; for, asfoon as he arrived onboard, he put it off, and prefented it to Captain Cook. When dinner was ferved up, not one of them would even fit down, or eat a morlt'l of any thing, as they were all taboo ^ they faid ; which word, though it has a very compreheniive meaning, generally fignifics that a thing is prohibited. Why they were thus retrained at prefent, was not ac- counted for. Having made prefents to them all, and gratified their curioiity by ihcwing them every part of the fhip, the Captain conducted tliem afliore. When the boat had reached the land, Feenou and feveral others immediately ftepped out ; and the young prince follow- ing them, was called back by Mareewagee, who now- paid the heir apparent the f\me obeilance which the king was accuftoir.ed to receive; and when Old lbolx)u, and one of thw old ladies, had honoured him with the ifame marks of refpe£t, he was fufFered to land. After llhis ceremony, the old people ftepped out of the boat into a canoe, which was waiting to convey them to Itheir place of relidence. Captain Cook was pleafed at half broad, ■iieing prefent on thisoecafion, as he was thus furniihed e fide was fcth the moft convincing proofs of the iupreme dignity large boar, lof Poulaho and his fon. By this time, indeed, he had lined fome certain information with regard to th^ re- tive lituation of feveral of the "hiefs. He now kr ew, at Old Toobou and Mareewagee were brothers, both if them were men of very conliderable property, and in ligh cliimation with the people : Mareewagee, in par- fqr^ tatta-Bcular, had detained the honourable appellation of Q>ip ; andBffi/ooa Tg. To. and hav- cert with ;ed in the two were end-wife. 3e on the lefe a pcr- rbey hang the enter- 3V\ o'clock, for a light, ^eral others,' h furnilhedi ea. ^Veft■ , miles is en- »s and buQ^e ^r. Beyon u which ar Near tb dispe^^edl, iea. ^^^el| nfia of cor Ji mud ; an Itirm, are va Lr paces. jace ^c a bit of cloth, and h.iving dipped it in a juice ex- U. II.-N*' 30. T 1 »»•'-« » 3-1 148 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. prefled from the bark of a tree called kokka^ rub it brlfkly over the piece that is making. This leaves upon the furface a dry glofs, and a dull brown colour; and the (lamp makes, at the iame time a flight impreflion. Thus they proceed, joining and ftaining by degrees, till a. piece of cloth, of the requiiite length and breadth, is produced. They generally leave a border, about a foot broad, at the fides, ard rather longer at the ends, unftain- ed. If any parts of the original pieces have holes, or are too thin, they glue fpare bits upon them, till their thicknefs equals that of the refl. Whenever they are defirous of producing a black colour, they mix the juice of the kokka with the foot procured from an oily nut called dooedooe. They affert, that the black cloth, which is ufually moft glazed, makes a cold dref§ ; but the other a warm one. / ' The Commodore and Mr Gore meeting with Feenou, on their return from their excurfion, took him, and another chief, on board to dinner ; which being ferved up, neither of them w'ould eat a morfel, alledging that I they were tabco avy •, but when they found, that, in drefling a pig and fomc yams, no avy (water) had been made ufe of, they both fat down, and eat very heartily, and drank fome wine, on being afTured that there wasj no water in it. From this ci^'iumftance we inferred,! that they were at this time, lor fbme particular reafon,' forbidden to ufe water ; or that, perhaps, they did notj like the water we then ufed, it being taken out of ens of the places where the iflanders bathed. The following day, which was the 17th, was fixec upon by Marcewagce for giving a grand haiva^ or enj tertainment, at which we; were all invited to attend. BeJ fore the temporary hiit of this chief, near our lad ftation, a large fpace had been cleared for that purpofa In the mornir;^, vafl numbers of the natives came i{ from the country, every one of whom bore on hi| flioulder a lonp; pole, at each end of which a yamwa fufpendcd. Thefe poles and yams being depofited oj each fide of the open fpacc, or area, formed two larg heap! CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 149 brifkly pon the and the 3reflion. ees,tilla. -adth, is ut a foot ,unftain- holes, or , till their they are c the juice a oily nut )th, which ,t the other Lth^eenou, him, and heaps, decorated with fmall fifli of different kinds. They were Mareewagee's prefent to the Captains Cook and Clerke. The neceflury preparations being made, the iflanders began, about eleven o'clock, to exhibit various dances, which they call mai. The band of mufic at firfl: confifted of feventy men as a chorus, amidft whom were placed three inftruments tha*" we called drums, though they did not much refemble them. They are cylinderical pieces of wood, from three to four feet ill length, fome of them twice as thick as a man of or- dinary fize, and fome not fo large. They are entirely hollow, but clofe at each end, and open only by a chink, about the breadth of three inches, running nearly the whole length of the drums. By this opening, the reft of the wood is hollowed ; which muft be an operation of feme difficulty. This inftrument is called by the natives naffii ; and, having the chink turned towards tliem,theylit and beat vigoroufly upon it, with twocylin- : hinii ^"^■derical pieces of wood, as thick as the wrift, and about leing lerve BjfQot in length ; by which means a rude, but loud and edging t a ■pQ^^^ej-ful found, is produced. They occalionally vary nd, that, 1 m^^^ ftrength and rate of their bleating ; and likewile -0 had bee Bjj^jnge the tones, by beating towards the end, or in the ery heartily»B |^ ^1^ ^^ ^^^ inftrument. at there w ■ 'y\^q^q were four ranks, of twenty- four men each, in ^re I'^^^'^^^^me firll dance. Thefe held in -their hands a fmall thin :ular Jf^*^ Mvoode" inftrument, above two feet in length, refembling |they diQ n ^m .^^ ^^..^^ ^^ oblong paddle. With thefe inftruments, n out 01 ^i^j^l^ j^j.g called pagge^ they made many difterent mo- ons ; fuch as pointing them towards the ground on ne fide, and inclining their bodies that way at the fame Itant ; then ftiifting them to the oppofite fide in the me manner ; pafting them with great quicknefs from ar our ^^^iMne hand to the othei, and twirling them about with that pulp .minmlcable dexterity ; with various other manoeuvres, rt^m ^j,;^. ^notions, which were (low at ffrft, quickened as e druni'5 beat fafter ; and they repeated lentences the hole time in a mufical tone, v»^bich were anfwered by le chorus ; but, in a iliort time, they all joined, and T 2 cnde4 1^, was fixe attend, he- law fives came bore on nil :h a yam W2 depoiited 0] led two lata heap .,*>-<< »5» CAPTAIN COOK'6 THIRD VOYAGE. ( ended with a flionf. After a ceflation of a few minutes, tliey began as before, and continued with fhort inter- vals upwards of a quarter of an hour ; and then the rear rank dividing, moved flowly round each end, met in the front, and formed the firft rank ; Glaring which time the whole number continued to recifi fentences, 'I'he other ranks fucceflively did the fame., till that whicli v»'as the foremcft became the rear ; and this evolutior; did not ceafe till the laft rank rej!;ained its former fitua- tion. A much quicker dance, though flow at firft, was then begun, and they fung for ten minutes, when the whole body, in a. two-fold divilion, retreated, and then advanced, forming a kind of circular figure, which cor- eluded the dance ; the chorus retiring, and the drums ' being removed at the fame time. In the fccond dance, there were forty men as a chorus, with only two drums ; and the dancers (or rather adors) confifted of two ranks, the foremoft of which had feventeen perfons, and the other fifteen. Feenoui was in the middle of the firfi. rank, which is confideredl on thefe occafions as the principal place. They dancedl and repeated fentences with very fliort intervals, forfceof half an hour, fome times flowly, and at other time8»the quickly, with the higheft degree of exadnefs and regu-Beconi ]arity. Towards the clofe, the rear-rank divided, caincBored round, and occupied the place of the front, which afie po terwards refumed its priftinc fituation. This dance he-Bg ^lU ing hnifhed, the drums were taken away, and the cho~ iTis retired, as in the preceding dance. Three very large drums were now brought in, an^ feventy men ferved as a chorus to the third dance This coniifted of two ranks, of hxteen men each, havl ing young Toobou at their head, who was IplendidlBlie drij ornamented with a kind of garment covered with reHr. anoj feathers. Thefe perfons danced, fung, and twirled tl pagge, fo as to mtet with the continual applauies of tl ipedators, who were particularly pleafed with a motio in which they held the face afide, as if afhamcd, wi| the pagge before it. The hindmofl rank cloleJ bcfoj tl m fcfhe ill CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 151 the front one, whidi foon after refumed its place, as "m the firft and fecond dances : then beginning again, they formed a triple row, divided, retreated to each end of the area, and left the ground in a great meafure clear, ffwo men rufiiing in at that inftant, began to exercife frie clubs which they make ufe of in battle. They (irfl wirled them in their hands, and made circular ftrokes efore them with great quicknefs, managing with fucli kill, that though they ftood clofe to each other, they ever interfered. They fhifted the dubs, r/ith un- ommon dexterity, from one hand to the other ; and fier fome time, kneeled down, and made various mo- ons, tolling up their clubs in the air, and catching them s they fell. They then retired as haftily as they had iitered, Tliey had pieces of white cloth about their lead'., faftened at the crown with a wreath of folinge piind theii" fore-^hcads : and that they might be tree oni all incumbrance, they had only a very fmall piece cloth t'cd round the waift. A man, armed with a ' Qj^fuierecifci* then rufhed in, and put himfelf in a menacing hev dance(\fc'i'l-> aa if he intended to llrike wi^h his \veapon at rerval?, forfc of the people in the crowd : at the iame time bend- f iher timeBfcthe knee a little, and trembling as it were with fury. ? \ regu« continued in this pofition near a miimte, and then '^'ded cainwved to the other lide, where, having ftood in the ^ which ami? polUire, he haftily retreated from the area. Du- •' A^tyce befc all this time the dancers, who had divided them- 1 the chowes into two parties, contmued to repeat iomethmg y,'!y ; and they now came forward and joined again, I 1^^ \^^ an^ciudlng the dance with general applaufe. This third dancSnce was probably confidcred as a capital performance, each, havBfonic of the principal people were engaged in it ; one nutcs, inter- in the d, ^^^ ■which itences. r wVAch rolntiorv ir fitua- irft, was v'hen the and then bicb cor- le dtums RaehoTUS, lor rather . of which Veenou ,s fplendidl ted w^^^ ^^ . twirled tl )\aui'esofi' ,ith a molv aatncd, ^^\ doled beto [the drums being beat by Futtataihe, the king's bro- ir. another by Fecnou, and the third by Mareewagec iifelf. [lithe fourth and laft dance, there were forty men as |iorus, with two drums. The performers were fix* len, arranged in three rows, having twenty- four in i^clbrQ they commenced, we were entertained with I-1 152 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. nith a preliminary harangue, in which the whole num- bermade rcfponfcs to an individual fpeaker. They re*, cited jv^atciices altcrn;;tcly with the chorus, and made wirh the p:5|^ge many quick motions. They divided! into twvo particf^ with tlieir hacks to each other ; formed S^^iln, (hiiied Uieir raaks (as in the preceding dances)! divide:!, and retreated, being fucceeded by two men| "who exerciied their clubs as before, after whom came two others ; th<^ dancers in the mean time repeating ir their turns v/ith the chorus : they ihen advanced, anc terminated tlie danrc, ^ Thefe amuicments continued from eleven o'clock till near three. The number of iilanders who attended af fpe(ftators, together with thole who were round th[ trading place at the tent, or ilraggUng about^amounteiBf.'?" to at leaft ten thouland, all witfiln the compafs of ""^^" ouarter of a mile. If we had undcrilood what \\ l|)oken in tliis entertainment, we miglit probably havi gained much information with regard to the genius an cuftoms of thefe people. Though the fpediators cori ilantly applauded the dliTcrent motion^., when wq snade, a coniidcrable ihare of llie pkalurc ihcy recclv fcemed to arifc from tlic fentimental part, or what i\ performers recited. However the mere a£ling part w deferved our noiicc, on account of the extenfivenefs the plan, the variety of the motions, and the ex, tmity, cafe, and graccfulncfs, with which they were pi formed. In the evening we were en^'crtaincd v*'ith the bor or niglit dances, on a large area beiort- the temper; dvv'eiling- place of Feenou. They conilnued three hou during wliich time about twelve of them were formed, nearly in the fame manner i. thofe at Hap In two of them, which v/ere performed by wome party of men came and formed a circle within th In anotiicr, which conliiled of twcr.ty-four men, m motions that we had not before icLii, vv^ere made v the handr., and met with great applaufc. The m CAPTAm COOK, THIRD VOy.G J livas once clmntred in ft,„ r . "'^"'^E. , lor fifty men . i *^enou nimfe f .tj,,-,^..^^ , ''> ^^"" ^n r-^ Wednefday the r«^K -n t '"'5 •*= fcfoEfo'*' "? fffc got CI, of , Urn circle had been nl" u k I"''''-"' " '""^^s a,tf 1^-^ ^in^f the ' ,^™;i,::':!:'' '"J ^. l>i'efents W iaine ^ lart-evvagt-c, in return ibriJin.''. ', "1'","^''"^ Prelents ^""■fnts then exhih^, .d"^^"K ''^y J and as the exhibition in return htiriJ i "i?"'' "" to make Kh their cxercii^;':; tto ' "f ■"='""^^'» h'wd been performed ••.n'n'^u '"''"^ the late k-vei.eaiio,la,cdVa;1h'e£-£s^-e n4 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. king, the principal chiefs, and a vaft multitude of peo^ pie, were prefcnt. The platoon firing Teemed to pleafe theiti ; but when they beheld our water-rockets, they were filled with aftoni(hment and admiration. They did not much regard the fife and drum, or French horns, that were playing during the intervaR Poulaho fat behind every one,no perfon being permitted to fit behind him ; and that his view might receive no obilrurk8. ,f thiti even itell part ol ^^fhen a per :nge by crof ;c, anJ claj) :m, whlcli i| no oppone if an aniagi rreateft goo( 'aiijufting tl .vaift. TU and he wl , inaantly ei hrows him ( lim in that pi rows hin^, y. Uthey 4, and attem legs» or raili^ ength. VN retires; w .ute, thenri me, ^^^^'^Vi mg f^^r a ft^i W\ if loveral CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. ':>:> of them he pleafes to engafre vv^ith : lie may alfo, if he Ihoiild *throw his competitor, challenge again, till he himfeif is vanqiiiflied ; and then the people on the op- pofite fide chant the long of vidory in i'avour of their champion. It frequently happens, that live or iiK rile from each lide, and give challeriges together ; lb tl.nt it is not nncommon to fee feveral lets engi'.ged on the firUl at the fame time. I'hey preferve groat temper in tiiis exercife, and leave the ipnt witliout the Icail difnleafurc in their countenances. When they find that they arc too equally matched, they dehll by mutual cfiuient ; and it* it does not clearly appear v/hich of them h;^s had the advantage, both (ides proclaim the vidory, and then rliey engage again. But no one, who has been vanquilhed, is permitted to engage a fecond tinie with his con- querer. Thofe w-ho intend to box advance lide-wayr., chang- ing the fide at every pace, liaving one arm ftreiched out before, the other behind ; and holding in one hand a piece of cord, which they wrap clofely about it, wKen they meet with an opponent. This Is prohably intended tn prevent a diflocation of the hand or fir.gcrc. Their blows arc dealt out wich great quicknels and adivity, and are aimed principally at the head. They bo>: equally well with either hand. One of their n\oil dex- terous hlows is, to turn round on the hetl, jull alter they have firuck their adverlary, and to give him another pretty violent blow with the other hand backward. Ir^ boxing matches, unlefs a pcrfoii Itrlkes his antagonid to the i^round, they never fing tlie fong of vidory ; wiiicii jflievv's, that this diverfion is lefs approved ainong them km wrelUing. Not only boys engage in both thefe xcrrifcs ; but it not unfrequently liappens, th.;r little iris box with great nbdinacy. On .ul thde occalions, ley do not conlider it as any difgr.ice to be be over- omc ; and the vanquHiied perlon fits down with as uch indilTerencc as if he had never engaged. 8(»me if our people contended with them in both exerdfes, aitvv^cre generally worfled. Vol. il. k'-'. 30. ' U Captain ISO CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. m i I V tl Hi Cc o\ lor to iho btl C Tiev ll!0O( Captain Cook intending to leave behind him feme of the animals he liad brought, thought proper to make a diftribution of them before his departure. He therefore, on the 19th, alTembled the chiefs before our houfe, and marked out his intended prefents to them. To the king he gave u bull and a cow ; to Mareewagee, a Cape rani, and two ewes ; and to Feenou, a boric and a mare. He inftrud^d Oniai to tell them, that no fuch animals exifted within feveral months fail of thfir illand ; that we had brought them, with a great degree of trouble and expence, for their ufe ; that, therefore, they ought to be careful not to kill any of them till they had multi- plied coniiderably ; and fuially, that they and their pcf- terity ought to remember, that they had received them from the natives of Britain. Omai alfo explained to them their refpedtivc ufes, as far as his limited know- ledge in fuch points would permit him The Captainy„ had intended to give old Toobou two or mree goats ; butj^j iinding that chief indifferent about them, he added them to the fhare of Poulaho. It foon appeared, that fome of the natives were difladsfied with the allotment of our animals ; for, the next morning, two of our turkey cocks, and one kid, were miffing. Our Gommodorei being determined to get them reftored, feized on thre canoes that were aloug-fide the (hips ; then went or fhore, and having found his majeftv,his brother, Feenou and fome other chiefs,- in our houfe, he immediately ap pointed a guard over them, and intimated to them, thai they muft continue under reftraint, till not only th turkeys and the kid, but the other things of which w had been plundered at various times, were rcflored t us. They afTurcd him, that the things in queflioi fhould all be returned ; and then fat down to drink i&Jt;< with an appearance of unconcern. Soon afterwards, a axe, and an iron wedge, were brought to us. So armed natives, in the mean time, began to aflemblebi hind the houic ; but they dilperfed when a part of guard marched againft them ; and the chiefs, at t' infligatii CAmm COOK.. Tmnn voTAGE "iftigation of the Tom^ , ^"^^AGE. ,„ more ftould apVlr \Vk "?' .f?^^e wders that nr, with him on hoi d •th,},^,'!,'^" '<-" '""^-^d them to dine them having afterwarfeb^air. "T^r^'^- Som^'of rofe up immediatelv an,l J! i ?■' ""'''''osgoinff hj hrft man. AccorZ'I t&'f """^ '>^ ^°"ld be'the Clock. He then condudti-r? !?, I? '^^^ near four H be broufhrbaKti;'" '^^ «''" 'X toth them and the canoes. ' '"""''""S' ^e releafei kood fared; for fhis was he ?St'" ""J "'^'gl'boJr! He found that thev werr in "'"^ V'.'ne of their meals cumftancc not to b^ wonder" fat?'' '" '""PP"'^'' 5^ cir-' N other provifions th «7l, ? ' '''""' >""" of the vam, kpofbd o/to usTlnd", ^J' "^'""ghtwith them,wc?e f >heir own habit'atS wbL^'th''^ ""^''.""S 'o ^eufra Menance near our poft Thll '' ^^^'i* '"'"cure any M. where our ftat?on was be „''.'f ""'?■: ?*" °f 'h^ te "°"l "'^ ."'^ ""fives who hlw^r'":;'''"^' ""^--^ ithin half a mile of us. Thofe fl f ^""^ f^'idence kpoft. were obliged to llveCnH T^^"'^ ""^^ ^'^re at temporary fteds ; and the coif /'"' '"*^ ^''^^' ot p|^branches.for the tur?ofro?^S| fej te KSr a"t tr ^^ °^'^eir ..., ha were fed by the o"her, 'S^' l"?^"'^^ ^^o of fin of this circumftance .hi °" '''«"' ""^'"g the h , Upon funhTr e5i J • Jr^" ^^^^^'^''"^^ K about two months bXe ha5'^f^'''."l»' ™« °f K chief, on which account flT ^"'^'^ '"'^ corpfe He anv food for five monfL V? ""' allowed to fme/the fame oKo ht'/"1 '^'. *= ""^^^ had fe"or rank, and^s Ae^forTL^f^y of a perfoa p", though not for fo ionl^^'L",",'''' ^ '"^ii^r re, ^ . ^' . ' Oa ■■'■: 158 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. On Sunday the 2ifl early in the morning, Poulaho came on board, to invite (lapraiii Cook to an haiva or cntertairuncnr, whicli he ddigncd to give the fame day. lie had already had his head befmearcd with red pig- ments, in order to communicate a red colour to his liair, which v^,is nr»t irally of a dark brown. The Cap- tain, after hreakfail, attended him to the fliorc, and found the iflanders very bufy in two places, lixinjr injj Iquare and upright poiition, four very long polls, at the diftance of near two feet from each other. They afterwards fdletl up with yams the fpacc between the polls ; and fallened llickr, acrofs from one poft to an- ctiier, at the diilancc of every four fe.'t, to prevent the pods from fjparaliug by the v/ei.qlit of rlie inclofed yams, and alfo to aicend b3^ Ao foon as the yams had I reached the fummit oftlie liiH pj!l:-., they continued to faftcn otliers to tiiem, ti!l each pile was thirty feet orl more in hei;];ht. Tiiey plaetd o:i the top of one of the! lies two baked ho[5S ; ar.d on llie toj) of the otlicr, aj iving one ; and they tied another by tlielegs hrlf way! up. The facility and diipatch with which thefe t;vo piles were railed was remarkal^le. After they had comi pleted them, they accumulated fome other heaps of yamsJ and alfo of bread fruit, on each iide of the area; to whicli a turde and a great quantity of excellent llih were aJ iled. The whole of this, with fome red feathers, a mat and a piece of cloth, compofed the king's prefent tj Captain Cook. x'\bout one o'clock the mai or dancef were begun. The iirfl of tliele very nearly refemblej the firft that was performed at Mareewagee's cntertair ment. The fecond wa-; cor: dueled by young Tooboi and in this four or r}ve won:cn were introduced, wl equalled the men in the exadiiefs and regularity of the motions. Near the end the performers divided, in ordj to leave room for two champions, who exercijed th^ dubs. In the third dance, which was the lafl:, t\ other men with clubs exliibited their Ikill and adiviJ The dancers were fucceeded by boxing and wreftlinj H CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. »59 laiva or ne c\aY. :ct\ p'^15- • to Uis lie Cap- DTC, and They ween the oft to an- vevent the ^ inclofed ; yams had lUtinued to iny t'cct or : cue o: the he other, a crs IvMf way 1 tr.eie t»o y hac\ com- L\v)Sofyams ^a• towhlclj [1^ were ai!' aiers, a ma' s preient t( Y\ or dances ly relembk| :'s cntertaii iig 1 ooboi Kduced, W Lniyoftb I'lded/mord terciied tW :he laft, t; and adiyi^ ^d wreftM and one man entered the Hits with a kind of heavy club, made from the iicm of a ccroii leaf, hut could meet with no opponent to cnp;^ge him in lb rough a di- verfion. Towards thj evei'in;;, tlvj boiiiai or night dances, began, in which tl;e kir.g hhnll'lf, apparelled in Englifh manufydure, ^v^s a performer : but neither thefe, nor the riance» in the day time, werefo capital as thofe of Fcenou, or Marecwagce. The Commodore, in order to be prefcnt the whole time, (lined on iIkm'c. Poulalio fat down with him» but neither ea: nor drank, which was owing to the pre- fence of a female, who had been admitted at his re- queft to the dlnini; party, and v/ho, as we were inform- ed in the fequel, was of niperior rank to himfelf. Tliis lady had no fooner dined than fhe walked up to Poula- ho, who applied his hands to her feet ; after which flic retired. He immediately dipped his lingers hito a glafs of wine, and then all her attendants paid him obeifance. At his defire, fonie of our fire-works were played off hi evening ; but being damaged, they did nqt auiwcr the expedations of the fpe^tators. Svms rtf» CAPTAIN COOK^s THIRD VOYAGE. m Some Oncers plundered of their Muficts, and other Ariicles^ by the Natives. — Omai complains to the King of this Out" rage — Confequences thai it was probable might attend it — A 'v'lftt to Poulaho — Dcfcription of a Fiatooka — Country Entertainment at Poulaho s Houfe — His Mourning Cere- mony — Beqftly Method of preparing Ka-va — Account of Onevy — MeJJrs King and Anderfon •vifit Futiafaihe — £«- tertained by him — Method of drejfmg llcgs^ and carving them — Manner of pajjivg the Night — Obfervations on the Country Prepare for Departurc-^-'^Defcription of the IJland^ its Ani?nals^ Vegetables ^ Isfc, » m--: ■ft 1' f NO mere entertainments being expected on either fide, and the curiofity of the populace being in a great degree fatisfied ; moft of them deferted us the day after Poulaho's haiva. Still, however, we had thieves among us, and had continual inftances of their depreda- tions. Some of the officers of both fhips, who had made an cxcurfion into the interior parts of the ifland, returned the 22d of Jime, in the evening^ after an abfcnce of two days. They had taken their mufkets and neceflary ammunition with them, befidcs feveral fmall articles of the favourite commodities ; the whole of which the natives had the dexterity to fteal from them, in the rourfe of their fliovt journey. Inconvenient confe- quences were likely to have attended this affair; for when our plunderecl travellers returned, they employed] Omai, without confulting Captain Cook, to complain I to the king of the treatment they had received. He, | noti CAPTAIN COOK'S THI»„ . nou followed Lf °^ f^-^'y >n the mornf " ^y '»'"» «y was not r S„P''.; ^ that „™?ch;ff „!•"'' ^- favoured us wiri;, ""''^Wy "-eceived Po^''. '" ""= ought to he m.^" excnr/ion iCo ^^ °^ his peopig order projer JL'i'^ ?^1"«ntedVf, ^ :f^.«"«ry' ^^ «utragL.^'^P/"P^f '? attend t em ' to nV"^"" '"'e'.t He doubted I'f i'i'7««"tio„l!:.,tftf:'-/- ^"'-■'' Jiiave been iq a/ i ^^ ^ "^an anr? h:. '-^^n, u is n"]^^^^^,!^^^ Po,uhl,o. let out iL. next n,ov.ung .n ;> «;\,;^;^ ,f ,onVcC|M,':.ncc ul.ully re ^viu■ro he ami the omu w ^.^^^ ^.^ „ fiduvj" in cor.ipanv; '" o^,.';,^^ .„,e iwi'.lds about a £ "They !•■-■ 1 -Uf ^ "ou-: (^t. They ihavc.l an cfR'funi ovie. , i,-„ f,fl,lng party, ''^ ft ,v- had done Detoie, ^^ "cn ^ c cotv-iaQeu "" E^ Asj;:^n as ^e ^^ t^d" though tdcr^J. to or,e 01 ''"""''" °.-:';^:;,eplr.cc of rd.dencc and large, fcemed to ^^ "^, P;' . V-,;.!^ Theiang katecll.m- ,va"iuuatcd -->-^ '■ '.''Z-h;^=, and tho-x wh.o came t adv, ii-i'^t:c If: akeaview oral the k ■went t-o t f;,iJl dlibnce troni CIl id Omai as our iviterpieur, l<;i.orbunMnRl) i;itooka, or i< \ct\ ar ;i| ntul ecu iv> Ivibitanon iriTi It bcic^rge d lot! .iw •'•* 1 cGuliO^'^ ol rl.rcc ar^. (h houics, inuat (1 ri Uh a lm:iii ont not tar (11 a nimg J..roun., ^vviu>^,.^. ^^-^^^^^^ nn "'^R^^ '^":?;::u .o;:.^; v;inch ^.a. i.iace v^a r, the ^'"»^<^ Uli'j hoal'T twtnty~'f>\ir p oC^ \U aiu hrcj it D p. Hi 11^ IC a in a iquare \ vAiWd aboil' 1 llitH Diaci !C\ 01 mount nts. On tlie Hoor.^ Oi thcic lioul.s, as alio on tops of the mcaims, re, were fine 'iu.le v;as cue oied by large One of the hcules was op^ lilt n oil UN lion cs of coral roc' 'loolc pebbk one fide, an d tw \voou< H, |1 iSil ■M- .,,^ *.! t it w% \H 9- CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 16 J ' wooden bufts of men, rudely carved, were within ir. We enquired of the natives wl .0 followed us (but durft not enter here) what thefe images were ; who informed us, that they were memorials of fome chiefs who had been buried there, and not meant as the reprefcnratives of any deity. Such monuments, it is prefumed, are feldom raifed ; for ihefe appeared to have been ere(Sled many ages. We were informed that dead bodies had been buried in each of thefe houfes, but no marks of them were to to be diftinguilhed. The carved head of an Otaheite canoe, which had been driven afliore on their coaft,, was depofited in one of them. On the rifing ground was a grafs-plot, on wl\ich different large trees were planted ; among which were feveral of thofc called etooa. They greatly refemble the cyprels, and had a very folcmn effeO.. A row of low paims was alfo planted near one of the houfes. After refrefliing ourfelves with fome provifionSjwhich we had brought from our (hips, we took a pretty large circuit into the country, attended by one of the king's I minifters, who would not fuffer any of tlie rabble lo fol- [low us, and obliged thofe whom we met upon our iprogrels, to fit down while we were pafTing ; a mark jof refpedt due only to their fovereigns. The greatell part of the country was cultivated, and moft of their pkintations fenced round. Some parts, indeed, lay fal- low, and others in a ftate of nature ; the latter afforded jlarge quantities of timber. We found m^; ly public and well-beaten path^, lead- ling to different parts of the ifland. Travelling here Iwas indeed very commodious, the roads being excellent, land the Cv»aiitry level. We were condudled to leveral Ipools and fprings of water, but they were in general ^ither brackilh or flinking. In the dufk of the evening, we returned from our k, and found our fuppcr in readineis. It conliftcd i fome filh and yams, and a baked ho^, in which all [he culinary arts of the ifland had been dilplayed. There Vol. II.~N*» 30. X beini I(>4 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. being nothing to amure us after fupper, we lay down to fleep, according to the cuflom of the country, on mats fpread upon the floor, and had a covering of cloth. The king, who became happy with fome wine and brandy whicli we had brought, alfo llept in the houfc, as did Teveral others of the natives. Before day- break they aii arofe, and entered into converfation by moon- light. As foon as it was day, they difperfcd difFereno wa\\^s but it was not long before they all returned, ac- companied by fcveral of their countrymen. While they were preparing a bowl of kava. Captain Cook went to pay a viitt to Toobou, Capt. Furneaux's friend, who had a houfe not far didant, which for lize and neatnefs was hardly exceeded in the place. Here alfo we found a company preparing a morning draught. The chief made a prelent to the Captain of a living i hog, and one that was baked ; alfo a quantity of yarns,! and a h-rge piece of cloth. Returning to the king, we found him and his attendants drinking the fecondj bowl of kava. That bufmefs being performed, he in- formed Omai that he was immediately going to per- form a mourning ceremony, called tooge, in memoryl of a fon who had been fome time dead, and defired us to accompany him. Naturally expelling to fee fomewhad new or curious, we readily complied with the requeftj The king ftepped out of the houfe, attended by tw( old v/omen, and put on a new cloathing, over wliiclj was placed an old ragged mat, which might probabh have ferved his grandfather upon a fnnilar folemn oc] cafion. His attendants were habited in the fame manj ncr, excepting th.at, in point of antiquity, none of theij mats could vie wiih that of their matter. Thus eqiiij pcd, we miirched off, proceeded by eight or ten perfcij jn the fame uniform, each of them having likewifej green bough about his neck. Foulaho, who held hj Lough in his hand till he approached the place of rei| dezvous, then alfo put it about his neck. vVe now ei| tcred a imall inclolure, wherein was a neat houfe, ar a man fitting before it. As the company entered, th^ m I. 4 lay down intry^ oa ^ of cloth, wine and Mc houfc.', day- break by moon- 1 difFerentj uriicd, ac- a, Capta'm ?"urneauxs ch for lize ice. Here ig draught. )f a living y of yams, j e kinj^, we the fecondl -led, he in- ng to per- in mcmoryl lefired us t( e fomewhali he requeftj ded by tw( over whi ;ht probabl] • folemn ocj : fame manj ione of theS rhus eqiiil r ten perrciil g likewife rho held h| place of Kt We now ei| It houfe, ar entered, th^ to(| ■ ... '-■■ ;-'"C •, \. .■^' ^m y 'mi bm", gMjBi i RjKgi 1 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. i6; took the branches from then* necks, and threw them a- way. The king leated himfelf, and the others fat before hhn in the ufiial manner. By t!ic arrival of other pcr- fons, the circle increafed to upwards of an hundred, prin- cipally old men, all drefl'ed in the manner above de- fcribcd. The company being afTembled, a large root of kava was produced by one of the king's fervants, and a capacious l>owl that would contain five or fix gallons. Many pcrfons now began to chew the root, and the bowl was filled \yith liquor up to the brim. Othen were employed in making drinking cups of plantain leaves. The firfl: cup that was filled, being prefented to the king, he ordered it to be given to another perfon ; tlie fecond was alio prefented to him, and he drank ir ; the third was offered to Capt. Cook. Afterwards a cup was given to feveral others, till the liquor was exhnult- ed ; and though not half the company partook of it, no one appeared in the lea^l: dilfitisned. Each cup as lit was emptied was thrcv/n upon the ground, whence it v/as taken up, and carried to be filled again. All this time the chief, and his whole circle, fat with a great (leal of gravity, hardly fpeaking a fy liable to each I other. All this while we were in expectation of feeing the mourning ceremony begin, when, to our great furprize, jas foon as the kava was drank out, they all rofe up and dilperfed ; and Foulaho informed us, he was now ready |to attend us to the fliips. • We had fbmetimes feen the drinking of kava at other lidands, but no where fo frequently as here. The kava is a fpecies of pepper, which they efleem a valuable ar- tide, and cultivate for this purpofe, carefully defending the young plants from any injury; and it is ufually planted about their houfes. It does not often exceed the height of a man^ though they are fomeiimcs feen Imuch higher. It has large heart-fhapcd leaves, and lioluted flalks. Only the root of the kava is ufed at the Friendly |Illiiids: after being dug up it is given to the ferYants,who, X 2 break- m 1 66 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 'what j execut whate^ to rhei The Tome c requenc one of were tai breaking it in pieces, fcrapc the dirt ofF, and each chews his portion, which he afterwards fpits into a piece of plantain leaf. Thofe who are to prepare the liquor, colledl thefe mouthfuls together, and depofit them in a large wooden bowl, adding a fuflicient quantity of wa- ter to make it of a proper ftrength. It is then well mixed up with the hands, and wrung hard, in order to make it productive of as much liquid as pofTible. About a quarter of a pint of this beverage is ufually put into each cup. It has no perceptible effedl uponBihey we thefe people, who ufe it fo frequently ; but on fome cfBbehavio ours, it operated like our fpirits, occalioning intoxica-Bfioncd ; tion, or rather ftupefadion. Bfoi till t The mourning ceremony being over, we left ]VIooa,Bfire armj and let out on our return to tl*e Ihips. Rowing downBtaken in the inlet, wc mer with two canoes returning from filh-Bfon, in a ing. Poulaho ordered them to approach him, and tookjmth the from tl\em every iilh and fliell. He afterwards ftoppe two other canoes, fearched them, and found nothing. He gave us fome of the fi(h, and the reil were fold b his lervants on board the (hip. Prc( ceding down tli inlet, we overtook a large Hiiling canoe, when ever perfon on board her fat down till we had pafled ; eve the man who fleered, though he could not poflibl manage the helm, but in a ftanding pofture. Having been informed by Poulaho and others, tha there was fome good water at Onevy, a fmall iflam about a league off the mouth of the inlet ; we lande there in order to tafte it, but found it to be extreme! brackifh. 1 his ifland is quite ir^ a natural llare, an only frequented as a fifhing place ; having nearly th fame produdlions as Palmeriton's Ifland, When we returned to the fliip. Captain Cook wai informed that every thing had been quiet during hi abfence ; not a Angle theft having been committed ; oi which Feenou, and Futtafaihe, the king's brother, wh had undertaken the management of his countrymen i the Captain's abfence, boaftcd not a little. This evincej having b Nothir \wo days an accour led. On I accompai not far bon afte was cUTqC lair was of pieces 'the fame W been jearth, the k fize indling i efe fton ey fillec aves to if the fai afe ones, %^ CAPTAIN COOIC's THIRD VOYAGE. 167 hews I what power the chiefs have, when they are inclined to :ce of I execute it ; which is not often to he expcded ; for ,quor, I whatever was ftoien from us, was generally conveyed r\ in a I to them. )fwa-B The next day, fix or eight of the natives aflaulted 1 wellBfome of our people who were fawing planks ; in con- der tojiequence of which they were fired on by the Icntry ; one of them was fuppofed to be wounded, and three ifuallyBwere taken. The latter were confined till night, when uponBthey were puniihed, and fet at liberty. After this their 3me ofBbehaviour was very decent and circumfpedi ; occa- toxica-Bfioncd, as we imagined, by the mati being wounded : for till this time, they had only heard of the elfe£t of ]VIooa,Bfire arms, but now they had felt it. We were not mif- l downBtaken in our conjedlure, for Mr King and Mr Ander- )mfilh-Bfon, in an excurfion they took into the country, met with the very man, and found indubitable marks of his having been wounded with a mufket ball. Nothing worthy of notice happened at the (hips for two days ; we fliall therefore fill up that interval with an account of Mr Anderfon's excuriion above-mention- ed. On Monday the 30th of June, Mr King and he, accompanied Futtafaihe as vilitors to ,his houle, which lis not far from that of his brother Poulaho, at Mooa. Soon after they arrived, a largifh hog was killed, which Iwas elTedted by repeated ftrokes upon the head. The lU iflancBbir was then ciirioufly fcraped off, with the ftiarp edge e landeflof pieces of fplit bamboo, and the entrails taken out by xtremeMk fame fimple inftrument, Previous to this, sn oven :ate, an(Hliad been prepared, which is a large hole dug in the early thBearth, the bottom of w^hich is covered with ftones, about ^e fize of a man's fift, which are made red hot by bdling a fire over them ; tlien they wrapt up fome of efe ftones in leaves of the br,^ad fruit tree, with which ey filled the hog's belly ; fluffing in a quantity of aves to prevent their falling out, and thrufting a plug if the fame kind in the anus. This b^ing done, the afe was placed upon fome fticks laid acrofs the , and covered vvith plantain leaves. The earth wa2^ nd too ftoppe lothingJ ; fold b 3wn th n ever 1 ; eve poffibl ers. thai ^iOok wal jring hii litted; ol her, wh rymen ii Ikib evincej I ! itones. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) \ 1.0 1.1 1.25 ^1^ 1^ ^ 1^ |2.2 m lb u I. ^ MUu ^11^ ^^ <^ '^ /. V fliotograpiiic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WnSTM.N.Y. MSM (716) •72-4S03 'ti^'% ^ '^.V^ '^ ' i^S CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. t h a ir a I ill riv lin was artenvan'^s dn^ up all round ; and the oven beinpj thus efted-ually doled the operation of baking required no farther aid. They afterwards amufed themrdves by walking about the country, but faw nothing remarkabie, except a fia- tooka of about thirty feet high. At a fmall diftance, there was a number of etooa trees, on which were vaft quantities of Ternate bats, making a mpft horrible noife. Not having their muficets at this time, they could not kill any of them, but fome, taken at Annamooka, mca- furcd almoft a yard, when the wings were extendetf. On their return to Futtafaihe*s houfe, the baked hog was produced, accompanied with fome cocoa nuts, and fereral balkets of baked yatos. The perfon who pre- pared the hog in the morning, now cut it up ir a very maftcrly manner, with a knife made of fplit bamboo. Though the weight of it was at leaft fifty pounds, the whole was placed before them ; when they took a fmall part, and defired the reft mif^ht be partaken of by the people fitting round. Futtafaihe could hardly be pre- vailed upon to eat a morfel. Dinner being ended, they went with him and his at tcndants towards the fpot where Poulaho's mourning cfreinor.y was performed. They faw nothing but a kind of continuation of the fame folemn rites, by wayl condolence. Upon enquiring upon whofe account r was now tranra They croiTed the biy a thet '''? P^'°-"''=''' P^n « a canoe procured t^yVmrJT'"^' '" '^^>' iSation' jSUthority in calling to the fi"ff/'^°> ^X "erci/intZ" aoa larse hn,r ,>.;.^/T '"^^ that anoenrr.! . ..5./"? Kuw«i.^tcnde;iTo'b?uS^ h ''*'*'^''''^'' ^y -cid/ntranV Sht"^ J- '-o hens I , « yyua.ng to carry the I7« CAPTAIN COOK*8 THIRD VOYAGE. breed to Otaheitc, he referved the only remainmg pair for that purpofe. We took up our anchor the next day, and moved the fhips behind Pangimodoo, to !)e ready for the firit favourable wind to take m through the narrows. The king, who this day dined with us, took particular notice of the plates ; which the Commodore obferving, made him an offer of one, either of pewter, or of earthen ware. He made choice of the firft, .ind mentioned the feveral ufes to which he intended to apply it ; two of which were fo very extraordinary that they deferve to be re- lated. Whenever he (hould vifit any of the other iflands, he faid he would leave this plate behind 'him at Tonga- taboo, as his reprefentative, that the people might, in his abfence, pay it the homage due to himfelf in perfon. On being allied, how he had been ufually reprefentedi in his abfence, before he was i.i pofleffion of this plate, lie informed us, that this fmgular honour had always been conferred on a wooden bowl, in which he waflied i his hands. The other ufe to which he meant to apply the plate inftead of the bowl, was to difcover a tnief. When any thing had been ftolen, and the thief not de-l tested, the people were aflembled before him, when hef walhed his liands in this veffel. After this it was clean- ed, and every man advanced, and touched it with hisi hand, in the fame manner that they touch his ffeot when! they offer him obeifance. If touched by the guiltyB and t peribn, he dropped down dead immediately ; and, if anyr '"' one refufed to touch it, iiich refufal was confidered as fufficient proof of his guilt. In the morning of oaturday the 5th of July, the da) of the eclipfe, the weathjer was cloudy, with fomS fhowci^ of rain. About nine o'clock, the fun brokd out atTmall intervals for about half an hour, but waj totally obfcured juft before the beginning of the ecliplc The fun again appeared at intervals till about the mlddlj of the eclipfe ; but was feen no more during the re mainder ot the day, fo that we could nut oblen-e thj end CAPTAIN COOK^s THIRD VOYAGE. 171 end. This difappointmcnt was the Icfs to be lamented, as the longitude was fufficiciitly determined by lunar obfervations. The cclipfe being over, we packed up the inftru- ments, and every thing was conveyed o,n board. None of the natives having taken any care of the three fheep allotted to Mareewagee, the Commodore ordered tiieni to be carried back to the (hips. He was apprehenfive that, if they had been left there, they would probably be deftroyed by dogs. Thefe animals did not exift upon the ifland in 1773, when the Commodore lirfl: vifited it ; but there is now a plenty of them ; pardy from the breed left by him, and partly from fomc imported from an ifland, called Fcejce, At prefent, however, the dogs have not got into any nf the Friendly Ifiands, except Ton- gataboo. Mr Anderfon has given us the following defcription of this illand. Amfterdam, Tongataboo, or Tonga (as it is fometimes called by the natives) is about twenty leagues in circumference, rather oblong, though broadeft at the eaft end, and its greateft length is from eaft to weft. The fouth fhore is ftraight, confifting of coral rocks of about eight or ten feet high, terminating per- )endicularly, except in fome few places, where there *are fandy beaches. The weft end is about Hve or fix miLes broad, and has a fliore like that of the fouth fide ; but the north fide is environed with ihoals and illands ; anfl the eaft fide is, moft probably, like the fouth. This ifland may, with propriety, be called a low one ; the only eminent part, to be obferved from a fl^ip, is the Is. E. point, though many gently rifmg and declining grounds are perceivable by thofe who are on fhore. Though the general appe?irance of the country does not exhibit that beautiful kind of landfcape, produced by a variety of hills and vallies, rivtl:ts and lawns, yet it conveys an idea of the moil exuberant fertility. The (urface, at a diftance, feems entirely cloathed with trees of various fizes : but the tall cocoa palms raife their tuft- |td heads high above the reft, and are a noble ornament Vol. II. N*'. 30. Y to 172 CAPTAIK COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. to any country that produces them. The boogo, which is a fpecics of the fig, is the largcft fized tree upon the ifland ; and tlie niofl: common huihes and fmall trees, on the uncultivated fpots, are the pandanus, the faitanu(^, feveral Ibrto of h/ibircus, and a few others. The climate of Tongarahoo, from the fituation to- wards the tropic, is more variable than in countries fir "W'ithin that line ; tliough ^ that might, perhaps, be occafioned by the (eaihn of the year, which was now the winter folilice. '1 he winds are generally from feme point between S. and E. Tlie wind, indeed, ibmclimes veers to the N. E, or even N. W. but never continues long, nor blows ftrong from thence, though often ac- companied by heavy rain, and clofe fultry weather. The vegetable prodiidions are never ih much afFedec, iCfpedling the foliage, as to Ihed it all at once ; but every leaf, as it falls, is fucceeded by another, which caufes the appearance of univerial fpring. A coral rock appears to be the bafis of the ifland, that being the only fort that prcfents itfclf on the fhore. There was not the appearance of any other (lone ex- cept fome fmall blue pebbles about the fiatookas, and the fmooth black ftone, of which the natives make their hatchets ; and thefe have perhaps bsen brought from other iflands in the neighbourhood. Though in many places the coral projeds above the furface, the foil is in moft parts of a confiderable depth. In cultivated places it is generally of a loofe black colour, feemingly pro- duced by the rotten vegetables. 1 he principal of the cultivated fruits in this illandJ are pl?,ntains, of which they have fifteen varieties ; the jambu and the eeevee ; the latter being a kind of plumb; and vaft quantities of fl\addocks, as often found in a na*) tural ftate as planted. [ Of yams there are two forts ; one black, and fo large! as to weigh from twenty to thirty pounds ; the other) white and long, feldom exceeding a pound in weight.| There is a large root called kappe ; another like oui white potatoes, called mawhaha; the talo, and the jecjee. The^ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 173 , which >on the rees, on tion tcv- trit'S far aps, be MS n(nv 3m foine melimcs onduucs ^ften ae- ther. , affeded, ncc ; but 2r, which land, that he fhore. {lone ex- is, and the lake their ght from 1 in many ; foil is in ted places 1 ngly pro-1 Vis illand, [eties; the )f]jKimb; id in a rm id fo large the other iin weight.[ Ir like ov and the The\ They have vafl: numbers of cocoa nut trees, and three other forts of palms. One is called beeoo, growing aU mort as high as the cocoa tree, and having "very large leaves, plaited like a fan. The other is a kind of cab- bage tree, much refembling the cocoa, but rather thicker. A third fort is called ongo ongo ; it feldom grows higher than five or fix feet. Plenty of excellent f ugar- cane is cultivated here ; alfo gourds, bamboo, turmeric, and a fpecies of fig, called matte ; but the catalogue of uncultivated plants is too large Lo be enumerated. There are no quadrupeds in this ifland, but hogs, dogs, and a few rats. Fowls of a large breed, are do^ inefticated here. - 'jj-'?- ' Among the birds, arc parrots, and parroquets, cuckoos, king-fifliers, and a bird of the thrufli kind, (^ a dull green colour, which is the only linging bird we could fand here; but it compenfates in a great degree for the want of others, by the force and melody of its voice. Among the other land birds are rails about the fize of a pigeon, of a variegated grey colour ; a black fort with reddifh eyes ; large violet coots, with red bald crowns j two forts of fly-catchers ; a finall fwallow ; and three I forts of pigeons. Of water fowl, are the ducks feen at Annamooka ; I tropic birds ; blue and white herons ; noddies ; white terns ; a new fpecies of a leaden colour ; a fmall bluifti I curlew ; and a large fpotted plover. Among the animals of the reptile or infedl tribe'^ are Ifea fnakcs, (though often feen on fliore) about three Ifeet long, with alternate black and white circles ; fome Ifcorpions, and centipedes : alfo green guanoes, about Idghteen inches long, and two fmaller forts. Here are |(ome beautiful moths and butterflies, and fome very Wge fpiders ; together with others, making in the Me about fifty diflferent forts of inleds. Though the fea abounds with fifti, the variety is lefs m might be imagined : thofc in the greatfeft plenty mullets, filver nlh, old wives, parrot fi(h, foles, y 2 leather 174 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. leather jackets, albicores, bonnetos, eels like thofe about Palmerfton's Ifland, rays, a fort of pike, and fome de- vil fifli. • There are an endlefs variety of fhell fifh about the reefs and (hoals ; among which are the hammer oyfter ; a large indentated oylter, and many others ; but none of the common fort; a gigantic cockle, panamas; rones; pearl- Ihcll oyfters, &c. Alfo feveral forts of fea-eggs ; many curious ftar-tilh 5 crabs j cray-lifti, &c. and.lcveral forts of fponge. Stranie a; fe about bme de- vout the r oyfter ; )Ut none anamas ; forts of ii{h, Sec. f Siranie \ CAPTAIN COOK'tt THIRD VOYAGE. »7S Strange Solemnity at Mooa^ called Naiche^ in Honour of the Kings Son — D6fcri/>(ion of many extraordinary Procejfiont and Ceremonies during ike Jirjl Day — Manner of flipping andfpending the Evening at the Kings Houfc — Defcription of the fecond Days Ceremony — Captain Cook ventures him- felf in the midfi of the JJfembly — His Reception iherc--^ Arrival at Eooa — Some Account of that Jftand^Veigh Anchor y and turn through the Channel, THOUGH we v/ere now ready to fall, we had not fufficient day-light to turn through the narrows ; the morning flood falling out too early, and the evening Hood too late. We were therefore under a neccflity of waiting two or three days, iinlefs we Ihould be fortu- nate enough to have a leading wind. This delay gave us an opportunity to be prefent at a public folemnity, to which the king had invited us, and I which was to be performed on the 8th. He and all the people of confequence repaired to Mooa on the 7th, where the folemnity was to be exhibited. Several of . us followed them the next morning. Poulaho had in- formed us, that his fon was now to be initiated into [certain privileges ; one of which was that of eating with Vis father; an honour he had not hitherto enjoyed. About eight o'clock in the morning we arrived at IMooa, where we found the king, with a number of lattendants fitting before him, within a fmall dirty en- Iclorure. They were, as ufual, bulled in preparing a mv\ of kava. As this was not liquor for us, we went |to pay a vifit to feme of our friends, and to obferve what ^^6 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. th( ai)( wa wit edi thaf able parti qual brcai tied. and J OLirfe] No! vihaX preparations were making for the ceremonj', ivhich was Toon expeOetl to begin. About ten o'clock, the people aflemhlcd in a hrfrc area before the nia/aee^ or great houle. At fiie end oi a road, opening into this area, flood fevcral men with fpearsand clubs, inceil'andy reciting fhort fentencei;, in mournful accents, which conveyed an idea of diftrefs. This was continued about an hour; during which time, many people came down the road, each having a yam tied to the middle of a pole, which they laid down before thofe who continued repeating the lentcnces. At length, the king and prince arrived, and feated themfelves upon the area ; and we were requelled to fit down by them, to take off our hats, and to untie our hair. The bearers of the yams having all entered, each pole was taken up between two men, who carried it over their Ihouldcrs. Tliey afterwards formed themfelves into companies, of B^^e ^v/ ten or twelve each, and inarched acrofs the place, with W^* hf a rapid pace, eacti company headed by a man who hadB^refTet a club or fpear, and defended, on the right, by feveral^nds others, armed with diflerent weapons. About two hun-BP?'^^ of dred and fifty perfons walked in the proceflion, which B'^^ i wa'gn in return and lie ini ktiU When we returned to the king, he defired Ca3^.|^''l)tlefs Coo. I <=*"Amc.;OK, THIRD VOTACr ■ Cook to order the bo.,'o. '" I walknig about, thiy wm,l!ct^'''!; ''?'"•. ''''^•■'J' ''S '«n I e thatfomethlng wa"ta^nf'S"^' ["""" "^« tr '°'"e thoughts of advat^iil^l P^ '^^y^O'J '% kihis purpofe j but he wIsT,?' ^ "J^*""-^ » '^und p« men, that he had no L """e'^'y obferved by hn in execution. In order'^^rn'T"^^"*' P"'""? his hurned to the maIaee°Se7eh'h'^°'^ '''"'"' *'^"°«^^* h-ijcdi„aitt;ite?'t°Hi . no »:« CAPTAIN C00K»8 THIRD VOYAGE. for oft ced( twe ih\^ TOW feng faeroj roun I fearer Iprece ' and fi from pofitfc tendar before people of abo no attention to them till he came within fight of the king's principal jRatooka or morai ; before which a great number of people were fitting, being thofe whom he had juft before ieen pafs by the other morai, from which this was but a little diftant. Seeing that he could olv ferve the proceedings of this company from the king's plant ition, he repaired thither, accompanied by feve- ral of his people. 4 The number of perfons at the fiatooka, continued in- creaiing for Ibmetime ; and at length they cjuitted their fitting porture, and marched off in proceflion. They walked in pairs, every pair carrying, between them, imc of the final! poles on their fhoulders. We were in- formed that the fmall pieces of flicks, faftened to the poles, were yams; it is therefore probable that theyB^'*^?\ were meant to renrefent this root emblematically. 'I lie "'^ '" hindmoft man of each couple placed one of his hands to the middle of the pole, as if it were not ftrong enough to carry the weight that hung to it, and under which they all Icemed to bend as they proceeded. This proceffion confifted of one hundred and eight pairs, anjB^'^ong principally men of rank. Bliaftily Having feen them all pafs, we repaired to Poulaho'sB^econds houfe, and law him going out. We were notpermit-B^^^'rfo ted to follow him ; but were immediately condud:ed toB^'^ving the place allotted to us, behind a fence adjoining to thjB'^^ancc area of the fiatooka where the yams had been depofKe^conds, in the morning. Breiired Arriving at our fl:ition, we law two or three hunW^ch ot dred people, fitting on the grafs, near the end of ihrn^^ fam road opening into the area of the morai ; and others wer^ The continually joining them. At length arrived a fe men, each carrying fome fmall poles and branches, leaves of the cocoa nut tree. As foon as they appear an old man feated himfelf in the road, and proncuno a long c ration in a ferious majeftic tone. He then n tired, and the others advancing to the middle of tl area, began to ercd: a fmall flied or hut ; employinj for that purpofe, the materials already jcneutioned. The! oral, n 'liey pr( roftrate tended [ e princ rder, clc |ndfeate( 's num. Vol. II.- CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE 179 of the a great bom he n which 3ukl olv le king's by feve- ,nued in- tted their 1. They hem, one were ir.- ed to the that they Their work heing tiniHied, they all fquatted down, for a moment, before it, then role up, and joined the reft of the company. Poulaho's fon arrived icon after, pre- ceded by four or five men. After them appeared about twelve or fourteen women of the firfl rank, advancing llowly in pairs, each pair carrying between them a nar- row piece of white cloth, about two or three yards in length. They approached the prince, fquatted down before him, and wrapped fome 01 the pieces of the c loth round his body ; they then rofe up, and retired in the fame order, to fome dillance on his left, where ihey feated themfelves. Poulaho now made his appearance, preceded by four men, walking two and two abrealt, and fat down on his fon's left hand, at a fmall diilanca from him. The young prince then quitted his lirft uidt ri'^^^^lpofuion, and feated himielf under the fhed, with his at- '?^. ^'1 i.Btendants; many others placed themfelves on the grafs r^ a Q^,*rBbef^''^ ^^*^s royal canopy. The prince fat facing the ^^ \ inderBP^^P^^' ^'^^^^ ^^'^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^ moral. Three companies, ,^^ ThisB*^^ about ten or a dozen men in each, ftarted up from jea. .Bjjj^QPjg ji^g crowd, foon after each o'her, and, running haftily to the oppofite fide, fat dov^n down for a few feconds ; and then returned, in the fame manner, to their former ftations. To them fucceeded two men, eaah having a fmall green branch in his hand, who roie and ^Q^^jJJadvanced towards the prince, fitting down, for a few '^^ koofiteW^^^'^^*'. ^^^^^ different times, as they approached ; and ^ '' ■retired in the fame manner, inclining their brandies to bree huiifr^^ other as they fat. Afterwards two others repealed nd of wW^^ ^^^^ ceremony, lathers' wJ ^^^^ grand proceflion, which marched from the other * ^orai, now began to 'i-ome in. As they entered the area, they proceeded to the right of the (bed, and having )roftrated themfelves on the grafs, depofited their pre- tended heavy burthens (the poles) and faced round to 'le prince. They then rofe up, and retired in the fame rder, cloftng their hands with the moft fcrious afpeft, md feated then felves along the front of the area. While ^\^ tiumerous band were eatering, and depofiting their vol.lL— Ne3i, He Z; pole* ,t pairs, and| PouUho! lot permit-! )nduQ:ed tc i8o CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. poles, three men, who fat with the prince, continued pronouncing feparate fentences in a mournful melan- choly tone. A profound filence then enfued for a fhort time, after which a man who fat in the front of the area, began a kind of oration, during w^hich, at feveral dISerent tmies, he broke one of the poles which had been brought in. Having concluded his oration, the people, fitting before the fhed, feparated, to make a bnc, through which the prince and his attendants pafTed, and the affembly clofed. Satisfied with what they had already feen, fome of| our party now. returned to the fliips ; but Captain Cook, and fome more of the officers, remained at Mooa,tofee the conclufion of the folemnity, which was not to be till the day following. The fmall poles, which had been brought by thofe who walked in proceffion, being left| on the ground, after the crowd had difperfed, the Com modore examined them, and foimd that, to the middle| of each, two or three fmall flicks w^ere tied, as has bee: related. They were probably intended as only artificialj reprefentations of fmall yams. Our fupper, confiding of fifh and yams, was got read about fevcn o'clock. The king fupped with us, an drank fo freely of brandy and water, that he retired ti bed with a fufficient dofe. We continued the wholi night in the fame houfe with him and his attendants, All, except Poulaho himfelf, rofe at day-break ; foo after which, a woman, one of thofe who generally at tended upon the chief, came in, and, fitting down b him, immediately began the fame operation which Iiai been pradifed upon Futtafaihe, tapping or beating gent ly, with her clinched fids, on his thighs. This, inlleai' of adding to his repofe, had the contrary efFed, and hi awoke. Captain Cook and Omai now paid a vifit to the princ who had parted from us early the preceding evening for he did not lodge with the king, but in apartments ol his own, at fome diftance from his father's houfe. AV^ ., , * founi ptain \m afte 'ams. hat he lullets i ukd fc e,^ fat Dinn( my wc ventui 'er, to CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. i8i found him with a circle of boys about his own age fit- ting before him ; and an old man and woman. There were others of both fexes employed about their necefla- I ry affairs, who probably belonged to his houfhold. We then returned to the king, who had a crowded I levee before him, confifting principally of old men. While a bowl of kava was preparing, a baked hog and yams, fmoking hot^ were introduced ; the greateft part ofwhich fell to our ihare, for thefe people, efpecially the |kava drinkers, eat very litde in a morning. We afterwards walked out, and vifited feveral other [chiefs ; all of whom were taking their morning draught, lor ihcy had already taken it. Returning to the king, Iwe found him afleep in a retired hut, with two women Itapping or lliiking on his breech. About eleven o'clock Ikarofe again, and ate fome filh and yams, and again lay down to fleep. We now left him, and waited on ihe prince with a prefent of cloth, beads, and other ar- Iticles. There was a fuiHcient quantity of cloth to make Ihiin a complete fuit, and he was immediately clad in his Jnew habiliments. Proud of his drefs, he nrll went to exhibit himfelf to his father, and then condudcd Capt. [look to his mother, with whom were about a dozen ^ither women of a very refpedtable appearance. Here be prince changed his apparel, and made Capt. Cook a prefent of two pieces of the cloth which had been ma- Rufadured in the ifland, ^ ' . It was now about noon, when, by appointment, the aptain repaired to the palace to dinner ; which was looa after ferved up, and confided of two pigs and fome ams. The drowfy monaich was roufed to partake of t he had appointed for our entertainment. Two nullets and fome fhell fifh were introduced, as if in- jinded for his feparate portion. But he added it to our re, I'at down with us, and made a very hearty meal. Dinner being over, we were informed that the cere- mony would foon begin, and were ftridly enjoi'ied not I venture out. The Commodore had refolved, how- per, to peep no longer from behind the curtadn, but, Z z if I K"l mi i8l CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. if pofTible, to mix with the a<^ors themfelves. With this view he walked towards the morai, the fcene of the folcmnity. He was frequently defired to return, but he paid no regard to the admonitions he received, and was permitted to pafs on. When arrived at the morai, he faw a number of men feated on the fide of the area. A few were alfo fitting on the oppofite fide, and two men in the middle, with their faces turned to the morai. When Captain Cook had got into the midft of the firfl: company, he was defired to fit down, which he accordingly did. Where he fat, there were lying a number of 1 mall bundles, compofed of cocoa nut leaves,! and faftened to fticks made into the form of hand-l barrov\^. All the information he could get concernin[^ them was, that they were iaboo. From time to time, one or another of the company turned to thofe whi were coming to join us, and made a fhort fpeech, ii which we remarked that the word arekee (king) wai generally mentioned. Something was faid by one raa that produced loud burfts of laughter from all around others of the fpeakers were alfo much applauded. Thi Captain was frequently defired to leave the place ; bu| at length, finding him deterniined to ftay, they requeil^ ^d him to uncover his {boulders as theirs were. Thi he readily complied with, and then they no longe| fcemed uneafy at his prefence. The prince, the women, and the king, at length n peared as they had done the preceding day. Tfii prince being placed under the fhed, two men, each will apiece of mat, came, repeating fomething in a very fe/ ous ftrain, and put them about him. The people no^ began their operations, and different companies ran bad ward and forward acrofs the area, as in the former da; Prefently afterwards, the two men in the middle of tlj area, made a fhort fpeech, and then the whole compi ny rofe up, and pkced themfelves before the fhed which the prince, and three or four men were feate| One of the company, who fecmcd very defirous obliging Captain Cook, procured him fuch a fituatiol ed, two ihe butti fitua till th got w behin even good; wholt that for th( Iwfket fame With cene of CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 183 that, if he could have made ufe of his eyes, nothing could have efcaped him. But it was necellary to have a demure countenance and downcaft looks. The proceffion foon after arrived, as on the preceding day ; a pole, with a cocoa nut leaf plaited round the middle of it, being carried on the ihoulders of every two perfons. Thele were depofited with the fame ce- remonies as on the day before. After this fucceeded another proceffion, compofed of men who brought hafkets, made of palm leaves, rach as are generally ufed by this people to carry provifions in. A tliird procef- fion followed, in which a variety of fmall fifti, each placed at the end of a forked ftick, were brought. An - old man,' who fat on the prince's right hand, without the (lied, received the bafkets ; each of which he kept in his hand, making a fliort fpeech or prayer; then laying that afide, he called for another, repeating the fame kind of prayer ; he proceeded in this manner till he had gone through the whole number of bafketa. Two men, who till this time had in their hands green branches, and were feated on the left, received the fi(h one by one, as they were prelented to them on the fork- ed flicks. The firft fifii they laid down on their right, and the fecond on their left. The third being prefent- ed, a ftoutilh man, who was feated behind the other two, endeavoured to feize it, as did alfo the other two at ihe iame time. Thus every hlh was contended for ; but the man behind, on account of his difadvantageous iituation, e:ot only pieces ; for he never quitted his hold till the fuh was torn out of his hand. What the others got were laid on the right and left. At laft the perfon behind got poflefTion of a whole tilli, the other two not even touching it. Upon this the word rniareeai^ (very good) was pronounced in a low voice throughout the whole crowd. It appeared that he had now done all that was exped:ed from him ; for he did not contend for the other fifli. The perions who brought in thefe baikets and fifh, delivered them fitting ; and in the fame manner the poles carried in the t^rlt proceiTion, had 184 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. had been placed upon the ground. At the clofe of the lafl: proceffion there was Ibme i peaking or praying by different pcrlbnr.. Then, on a iignal being given, we all rofe up, ran feveral paces, and fat down, with our backs to the prince. The Commodore was requefted not to look behind him ; but he was not difcouraged by tliis ii^juncH-ion from facing about. The prince had now turned his face to the morai, and from that mo- ment he was admitted to the honour of eating with his father ; ana a piece of roalted yam was prefented to each of tlicm for that purpofe. ^ Soon after we all turned about, forming a kind of femi-circle before the prince^ and leaving an open fpace between us. Prefently fome men advanced towards us, two and two, bearing large poles upon their fhoulders, waving their hands as they proceeded, and making a noife like finging. When they came near us, they made a (hew of walking quick, without advancing a lingle ftep. Several men, armed with large fticks, im- mediately rtarted from the crowd, and ran towards the nev iSS CAPTAIM COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. deep chafm, we found fome excellent water ; which, th()Ugli attended with I'ome trouble, might be conveyed to the fhore, hy means of fnouts or troughs, that might be provided for thit purpofc : but rather than undertake that tedious tafk, the Ciaj)tain contented iiiniiclf with the fuj)plv the fiiips had received at Tonp;ataboo. Before he returned on board, he began a traffic for hogs and yams. Of the former, we could not procure many ; but of the latter, plenty. At this iiland wci janded the ram and two ewes, of the Cape of Good Hojje breed, and committed them to the care of Taoofa, who feemed delip;hted with his charj^c. It was, perhaps, a fortunate circumllance that MareewafTee, to whom they had been given, as before related, ilighted the prefent: as Eooa had no dogs upon it at prefent, it feemed to be a fitter place for the rearing of lliccp than 1 ongataboo. While we were lying at anchor, this ifland had a very different afpe£t from any that we had lately feen, audi formed a moft pleaiing landfcape. It is the higheftof any v;e had i'ccn iince we had left New Zealand, andf from its top, which appears to be almofl flat, declines gradually towards theica. The other ifles which forml this duller, being level, the eye cannot dlfcovef anyl thing except the trees that cover them; but here the! land, riling gently upwards, prefents an extenfive pro-[ fyt^y where groves of trees, in beautiful diforder, are interfperfed at irregular diftances. Near the ihore, it is quite ihaded with a variety of trees, among which ara ereded the habitations of the natives ; and to the righj of where Vv*e were ftationed, was one of the moft exj teniive groves of cocoa palms that we had ever feen. In the afternoon of the i.)th, a party of us afcended the higheft part of the ifland, a little to the right of oul ihips, to have a perfed view of the country.. Havin/ advanced about half way up, we crofTed a deep valleJ the bottom and fides of v/hich were clothed with treei "We found plenty of coral till we approached the fun mits of the higheft hills ; the foil near the top is in ge neral a reddifh clay ; which in many places is ver ■deei] m CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 189 deefp. On the moft elevated part of the ifland we faw a round platform, fupportcd by a wall of coral flone^. Our condudors informed us, that this mount had been raifed by the diredion of their chief; and tliat they met there, occafionally, to drink kava. They called it Etchee; by which name an crcdlion war. dilVmjruiihed which we had fcen at Tonp;atabo(). At a fmail diftance from it was a fpring of molt excellent water ; and, about a mile lower down, a ftream, which, we were told, nil into the fea when tlie rains were copious. We alfo difcovercd water in feveral fmall holes ; and fuppofed that plenty might be found, by digginpj. From this elevation we had a complete view of the whole ifland, except a fmall part to the fouth. The fouth-eaft fide, from which the hills we were now upon are not far diftant, rifes with great inequalities, imme- diately from the fea ; fo that the plains and meadows lie all on the north-weft fide ; w^hich being adorned with -lufts of trees, intermixed with plantations, form a mofl: delightful landfcape in every point of view. While Captain Cook was furveying this enchanting profped, he enjoyed the plcafmg idea, that fome future naviga- tors might, from the fame eminence, behold thefc meadows ftocked with cattle, brought by the fhips cf England ; and that the completion of this fmgle bene- volent purpofe, exclulive of all other confiderations, would mfficiently prove that our voyages had not been ufelefs. We found, on this height, befides the plants common on the neighbouring ifles,a fpecies oi acrojikuniy mslajioma^ and fern tree. All, or moft of the land on this ifland, we were told, belonged to the chiefs of Tongataboo ; the inhabitants being only tenants or vaifals, to them. This feemed, in- deed, to be the cafe at all the neighbouring ifles, except Annamooka, where fome of the chiefs ieemed to a£t with fome kind of independence. Omai, who was much efteemed by Feenou, and many others, was tempted with the offer of being appointed a chief of this ifland, A a 3 ii:' 199 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. if he woulJ continue among them ; and he feemed !ii- clinahle to have accepted the offer, had lie not been ad- vifed to the contrary by Captain Cook, though not be- caufe he thought he would do better for himlelf in his native ifle. Returning from our country cxcurHon, we heard that a party of the naiivts, in the quarter where our people traded, had ftruck one of their own people with a club, which fradurcd hir. fkull, and afterwards broke his thigh with the fame inflrumeu*:. No ligns of life were remaining, when he was carried to a neighbour- ing houfe, but in a Ihort time he recovered a little. On our defiring to know the reufon of fuch feverity, we were informed that he had been dlfcovered in an indeli- cate fituation with a woman who was taboo'd. We foon underftood, however, that fhe was no other wife taboo'd than by belonging to anotlicr perfon, who was, fuperior in rank to her gallant. We difcovered from] this circumftance how thefe people punifli fuch infide- 1 lities. But the female finner, as wc were informed, has! ,^, a much milder punifhment for her mildemeanour, and Ken t only receives a remoxiftrance and a very flight beating. L jj Captain Cook the next morning planted a pine applej and fowed the feeds of melons and other articles, in the| chief's plantation. He had reafon, indeed, to fuppoie that his endeavours of this kind would not be fniidefs; for a difli of turnips was this day fcrved up at his dinner] which was the produce of the feeds he had left her^ in 1773. The Captain having fixed upon the 15th for failing! Taoofa preffed him to flay a little longer, in order tJ receive a prefent he had prepared for him. His en] treaties, together with the daily expe^Llation of recei^ ing a vifit from Ibme of his friends at Tongataboo, ii^ duced him to defer his departure. The next day he re ceived from the chief the prefent ; coniifting of two \\i tie heaps of yams and a quantity of fruit, which feeq cd to be colleded as at the other ifles. Onthisocq lioa the greatcil part of the inhabitants of the idand hi aiTeinblecIl lamed rff niF i . "?^'J«^« aim down ai- . "atives, f? people wh„'Sea4rKf'"y «g>» to StS,^=^ ' f '*"*, that mnrt^ r 1 ^^^"^oled werf> A ^"^ '^"s^y /llin. h "anger SS^>,S --"'d be ftSttet ^morning, bringing Ij/^^^me afl>o"eTS^rh^ pim for what hi I ^"" *""> a preienr f^^T- '?® I, ebere were bw % "'' '""^^i^ed From him r*^^'' ■ ( iq2 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. chearfulnefs, and a large circle was prefently formed, in • which the chief and theprincipal men of the ifiand took .their refpel ferved a failing cance entering the creek before which! we had anchored our fhips. A few hours after a fmalll canoe, condu(ned by four men, came off to us : for hav-j ing but very little wind, we were ftill at no confiderablej diftance from the land. We V7ere informed by thefcj men, that the failing canoe which we had feen arrive/ had brought diredions to the people of £ooa, to fur] ni(h us with hogs ; and that the king, and other chiefs] would be with rs in the Ipace of two or three days They requefted, therefore, that we would return to oui| former nation. There was no reafon to doubt thd fruth of this information j but being now clear of thj . lanif Jann, it was rtnt « r rt^ • . >^3 back; efpeciaify a, v,^ h,T7 '"^'^'^ent to brin^t u, of yams at Eooa, in excl an-/^. ,^f *i^''S^ quantity confiderably to ourfup-^ y 5' >o " 'l'-'"^.?- ''"'^ ^''''^^ would not return, thefe pk,n l* °f ".c ;^"5'^'"S '^« ^^'e did fome others, who hadTome i" ^ "^^"'"J^- »" cocoa nuts and ihaddocks fn k! ? r"" ''''° canoes, w ih ^ct ; ;heir eagernds to pJ, be procured there — Number of IJlands^ among which are ' Kcppefs and Bofcawens IJlands — Account ofVavaeo^ Ha- moa^ and Feejte — Method of calculating Dijlances by Time ^^Ornai incapable of giving €xa6l Information — Perfom of the Inhabitants dcfcribed — Their Difeafes-^Chara^ler — Manner of wearing the Hair in both Sexes — Of pundu- ring and painting their Bodies — ~— Their Habits Orna- ments, ^c. WE have now taken leave of the Friendly Ifiands, and their inhabitants, after a cordial intercouri'e v/Ith the latter for between two and three months. Some differences indeed occafionally happened, on ac- count of their natural propenlity to thieving, though too frequently encouraged by the negligence and^ inatten- tion of our people. Thefe differences, however, were never attended with any fatal confequcnces ; and few belonging to our fhips parted from their friends with- out fome regret. The time we continued here was not thrown away ; and as we ii» a great meafure fubfiftcd upon the produce of the iilands, we expended verv lit- tle of our fea provifions. We carried with us l suffi- cient quantity of refreftiments, to fupply us till our ar- rival at another ftation, wlieie we could again recruit. The Commodore rejoiced at having had an opportunity of ferving thefe poor people, by leaving fome ufeful animals among them ; and that thofe intended for Ota- heite had acquired frefti ftrength in the paftures of Tongataboo. The advantages we received by touch- ing GAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. J 95' i/cmployed figments to which are vaoo^ Ha- es by Time ■Perfom of jarader— Jf pundu- s Orna- ]y Iflands, Lntercourie e months. ed, on ac- hough too id inatrcn- ;ver, were ; and few lends with- re was not ■e fubfiftcd :d verv llt- us «> -ufH- till our ar- lin recruit. Ipportunity )me ufeful :d for Ota- vaftures oi by touch- ing ing here were great, and they were received without retarding the ])rorecution of our great objeft ; the lea- fon for proceeding to the north being loft before we formed the refolution of vifiting theieiflands. Iron tools arc the heft articles for traffic here. Axes, hatchets, nails of all iizos, knives, ra/ps, and tiles, arc much demanded. Red clotli, white and coloured linen, looking-glafics, and beads, are alio in great ellimation ; but of the latter, thofe which are blue are preferred to all others, cfpecialiy the white ones. A liog might at any time be purchafed by a llring of large blue beads ; it (houid, neverthelefs, be obfcrved, that articles merely ornamental, may be highly eftcemed at one time, and dilregarded at anoiher. On our firft arrival at Anna- mooka, the people were unwilling to take them in ex- change for fruit ; but when Feenou arrived, his appro* hation of them brought them into vogue, and ilamped ihem with the value above-mentioned. In return for the com moditiesjull enumerated, all the reiVeihments that the iilands produce may be procured. 1 he yams produced by the Friendly Iflands are excel- 1< nt, and when grown to perfedlion, preferve well at ihi : but their pork, plantains^ 'and bread fruit, are in* fcrior in-qua!ity to the fame articles at Otaheite. Good water is Ibarce in thefe iflands. It may be v;c lay at anchor under Ivotoo, we were informed, that there was a ftrc.im of v/ater at Kao, which ran from the nnuntains into the lea, on Uie S. \V. fide of the illand. This intelligence may probably deferve tiie attention of ' fu'ihe navigators. We mull include under the dcnnminatiori'of Friend- lly lllands, not only the group at H apace, but alio thafe pvhich have been tiifcovered to the N. nearly under the iair.s meridian, as vve.l as lome others under the domi- jnioii of Tongataboc, which is the capital, and feat of Igovernment. Vol. II, N^3u B b From 19^ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. • From the beft information we could receive, this ar- chipelago is very extenfive. One of the natives enu- merated one hundred and fifty iflands ; and Mr Ander- ion procured all their names. The moft confiderabis illands that we heard of in this neighbourhood, are Hamoa, Vavaoo, and Feejee ; each of which is larger than Tongataboo ; but it does not appear that any European has ever yet feen any one of them. Hamoa lies t'-.vc days fail N. W. from Vavaoo. It is faid to be the largeil of all their iflands ; affords har- bours and good water, and produces, in abundance, all the articles of refrefhment that are found at the places we vifited. Poulaho frequently refides upon this iiland; and the people here arc in high eilimation at Tonga- taboo. ' . ' . '^ Feejee lies in the direiflion of N. W. by W. about three days fail from Tongataboo. It abounds with hogs, dogs, fowls, and fuch fruits and roots as arc to be found in any of the odiers, and is much larger than Tongataboo ; but not fubjcd to its dominion, as the other iflands of this archipelago are. Feejee and Ton- gataboo often engage in war againil each other ; and the inhabitants of the latter are often fo much afraid of this enemy, that they bend the body forward, and cover the face with their hands, to exnrels the fenle of their infe- riority to Feejee men. This is, indeed, no matter of furprize, for thofe of Feejee have rendered thcmfelves formidable, by their dexterity in the ufe of bows and flings ; but more lb by their lavage pradlice of eating fuch of their enemies as they kill in battle. it has been infilled on, that extreme hunger firfll occafioned men to feed on human fiefli ; but where] could be the inducement for the Feejee people to con- tinue the pradlice in the midll of plenty ? It is held ill tleteilatinn by the inhabitants of Tongataboo, who fecinl to cultivare the friendlhip of their favage neighbours o^ Feeice tliiough fear ; though they occaiionally venture to ftkraiih wi;i\ them on their own territory, and carry * . cf CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 197 tiis ar- s enu- \nder- 1 of in Feejee ; it does any one o. It is ,r(ls har- lance, all he places ilsilland; Lt Tonga- W. about ands with IS are to be ^arger tban Lon, as the k and Toa- [er -, and tbe fvaidofthis Id cover tbe If their infe- matter ot themfelves If bov;s and ;e of eating joff large quantities of red feathers as trophies. When a profound peace reigns between the two iflands, they have frequent intcrcourfe together ; though it is proba- ble they have not long been knov^rn to each other ; or it might DC fuppofed that Tongataboo, and its neighbour- ing iflands, would before this time have been fupplied with a breed of dogs, which are numerous at Feejee, and were not introduced at Tongataboo, when Captain Cook firft vifited it in 1 773. The colour of the natives of Feejcc was at leaft a fhade dar];cr than tliat of the inhabitants of the other Friendly Iflands. We faw one of the natives of Feejee, who had his left ear flit, and the lobe fo ftretched, that it almofl: extended to his ftiouleler; which fingularity had been obferved by Captain Cook at other iflands of the South Sea, during his fecond voyage. The Feejee men v/ere much reverenced here ; not only on account of their power and cruelty in v,^i\r but alio for their inge- fiuity ; for they greatly excel the inhabitants of Tonga- taboo in workmanfliip. Specimens were fliewn us of their clubs and fpears, which were ingenioufly carved. We were alio fliewii Ibme of their beautifully chequer- ed cloth, variegated mats, earthen pots, and other ar- ticles, all of which difplayed a fupcricrity in the execu- tion. Feejee, as has been already mentioned, is three days {i\\\ from Tongataboo ; thele people having no other method of difcovering the diftance from ifland to ifland. on by meationine: the time required for the voyage in of their canoes. That this might be afcertained with fome prccilion, Captain Cook failed in one of their canoes, and by repeated trials with the log, found that ihe went clofe hauled, in a gende gale, leven miles in an hour. He fuppofed from this, that they wiU fail, with fuch brc-'zes as in general blow in their feas, ^Qvea or eight miles an hour on an average. Each day, how- ever, is not to be reckoned at tweaty-four hours ; for when they talk of one day's fail, they mean no more Ihaii from the morning to the evening, or ten or twelve B b 5 honri 198 CAPTAIN COOK*!i THIRD VOYAGE. hours at the mofl:. From the morning of the firfl day till the evening of the fecond, is with them two days fail. In the day they arc guided by the fun ; and in the night by liars. When thefe are obfcured they can only have recourfe to the points from whence the winds and waves came upon the vcflel. If at that time the winds and the waves fliould (hift, they are quite bewildered, often miffing their intended port, and being never heard of more. 7 he ftory of Omai's countrymen, who were driven to Wateeoo, convinces us, however, that thofc vv'ho are not heard of, are not always loft. The harbour and anchoring place of Tongataboo, is fuperioi: to any we have met with among thefe illands, as well from its great fecurity, as its capacity and good- nefs of bottom. The rifk we ran in entering it from the N. fhould caution every future commander from at- tempting that pafTage again, efpecially with a fhij) of burden, fmce that by w^hich we left it, may be purfued •with greater eafe and fafety. Though the harbour of Tongataboo has the prefer- ence, its water is exceeded in goodnefs, by that at An- namooka, and yet this cannot be reckoned good. Toler- able water may, nevertheleis, be procured by digging holes near the fide of the pond. Befides, Annamooka being nearly in the centre of the group, is the beft fltu- ated for procuring refreflmi^ntsi from the others. There is a creek in the reef on the north fide of the iflaud, wherein two or three fhips may lie fecurely. After living among them between two and three Kionths, it is reafonable to expedt, that we fhould be able to clear up every difficulty, and to give a tolerable good account of their manners, cuftoms, and inflitu- tions, civil as well as religions ; particularly as we had 'fx ^^erfbn v;illi us, who, by underftanding their language as w-ell as ours, might be able to ad: as an iutcrnjctcr. But Omai was not qualified for tliat tnlfe, It^rileis wc had before us the objed. or thing concernirlg^Vhich ■vve wanted information, we found it difficult to obtain a fompcteat knowledge from his explanations. Omai ' ' : " was hd art Tc in really jl ^hcr cnf liefr i| "■'is at Niblt f''.::t tJ f'''i nci lie ktu CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 199 y tiU i fail. nigHt have i and 3ered, heard ) were c thofc boo, IS illands, 1 good- it from :rom at- (hip of puriued I pvefcr- X at An- loler- dlgging lamooka beft litu- s. There le Iflaud, ind three [hould be tolerable I luilitu- t^s we hatl Uernrcicr. l^nleis vvc iv^hich wc o obtain a as. Om^i was was certainly more liable to make miftakes than we were : for having po curiofity, he never troubled him- felf with making remarks ; and when he attempted to explain matters to us, his ideas were apparently fo li- mited, and probably diiTered fo much from curs, that his confufed accounts, inltcad of inftrudting, often only perplexed us. Befides, we could feldom hnd a perfon among the natives, who had both the ability and in- clination to give us the information we remiired. And many of them, we obferved, appeared offended at be- ing afked what they perhaps deemed frivolous quet- tions. At Tongataboo, where we continued the longeft, our fituation was likewife unfavourable; being in a part of the country where, except filhers, there were but few inhabitants. With our vifitors, as well as thofe we vifited, it was always holiday ; fo that we could not cblerve what was really the domeftic way of living a-nong the natives. That wc could not, therefore, in this lituation, l>ring away fatisfadlory accounts of many things, is not the leaft furprifmg. ^ Some of us, indeed, endeavoured, by diligent obfervation, to remedy thofc ilifadvantages ; and we are indebted to Mr Anderfon, Ifor a conTiderablc fliare of what is related in this and jthe followi ng chapter. The Friendly Ulanders feldom exceed the common ature, (though feme here were above fix feet in height) '.nd are llrong and w^ell proportioned. Their fhoulders in general broad ; and v/e faw feveral who were caily handlbmc, though their mufcular difpofition ra- ihcr conveyed the idea of llrength than of beauty. lielr features are Co various, that unlefs it be by a ful- rs at the point of the nofe, which is common, it is im- ollible to tix any general likencfs by which to charac- :e them. On the other hand, many genuine Ro- ii P"t their c^,nbt fia,f f '«^'«nt ''^"' '» ^Lich th-v nut flieJIs, a few gourds, and a bnill " ' ^"""^ '^o^a ndeed .^e the moft perfca of ft»-^ "'"r canoes, which tons. The double ones a,e m»''' ^f^'l^'^ical prodi^. carrv about fifty perron^ aLdTalf tt'"^*'"^'^ ''"S^ '» ,'^" '''«"» they generally fix "hut or /t ^I'^f '''^- ^1'- ton of the mafter and his famX ^n' ^'" '^^ ^^'4- n at 't/™" ''^^' ^"J tl e i, "'fy F^ nude if neat. They appear on the om{d^Jt^e]F '* extremel v pofed of one (olid piece- bnrl'^.^^y vverecom'- f^-'ya-jf found toconfift'ofa"P°" ''"-'f inipedion. ' :^f'teachotherexaaiyandTvL""'"''=.^ of pieces, t.e mfide are feeured Ser w,>^f'"' °^" '"'g"^ °« 1 he fingle canoes are fumilLi ^ .™'^°* «« "ne. IheonlytoolswhichtLvml. /•"'"'' ^'» outrii^Mr ,"°n of thefe boatrarf KS "^' "'^^^ ^^^ '""»^- Wack (tone; auger , made rf 2' u' ^'''"^' "^ » '"^oth compofed of the rough ftin of f'^^ ''f^ ' ^nd rafc.^ pieces of wood. Tfc fi^2 ? ? ""'• f^ftened on flaf overworks, except S4khV''"f "'^y ''"^^"or l-uft, whicd,, though not abovA ?^,"'' '^"'-■"a nut required. ,-,5 oil if „„ : 3 ,, ' 1° whatever Icno-rh L gether Their hrt.ing 1 n/^ Ire 1, S'"'^'"'' of thofe to- our bell cord. TUet f " n [^ ^' '*■"""{; and even as P«^lftellj but theZ-Ji'is °t r''« ^"'i'-^'y '• nthe back; and the pdm of hJ"^ '° •''■''' "'''^' '' ortoiib Ihell. With triaree b °'t ',? '" 8^'"^''-^'' "f Ks, and bonnetos, bypuufnlri? ^' "'^^ '•"^'^h albi- Aout t-e.ve feet lo^.'^wXn^; "J-'?* bamboo-rod. [Hhav. aho numbers offmi?lf^ '^? '"^™= '-"Kf'' W of SaieT, Jh°v/fc^^^ r'r'^ -•^'"^"'I'lc the' I . ' "^'^ "S'^' o'- ten pieces pLcoJ parallel ar® CAPTAIN COOK's THIRD VOYAGE. parallel to each other, moft of which are of unequal lengths. Their flutes are made of a joint of bamboo, about eighteen inches long, and are clofed at both ends, liaving a hole near each end, and four others ; two of which, and only one of the firft, are ufed by them in playing. They clofe the left noftril with the thumb of the left hand, and blow into the hole at one end with the other noftril. The fore finger of the right hand is applied to the loweft hole on the right, and the middle finger of the left, to the firft; hole on that fide. In this manner, with only three notes, they produce a pleafing, though fimple m'?Gc. Their naffa, or drum, has been aheady defcribed. Their warlike w-. ions are clubs, curioufly orna- mented, fpears, and darts. 1 hey alfo make bows and arrows , but thefe are intended for amufements, fuch as fhooting at birds, and not for the purpofes of war. Their ftools, or rather pillows, are about two feet long, but only four or five inches in height, and near four in breadth^ inclining downwards towards the middle, with four ftrong legs and circular feet ; the whole compofed of brown or black wood, neatly poliflied, and fome- times inlaid with ivory. They alio inlay with ivory the handles of fly-flaps ; and with a flbark's tooth, ftiape bones into figures of men, birds, &c. Their vegetable diet principally confifts of plantains, cocoa nuts, bread fruit, and yams. Their chief articles i of animal food are hogs, fi(h, and fowl ; but the com- mon people frequently eat rats. Their hogs, fowls, and turtle, however, feem to be only occafional dainties, referved for perfons of rank. Their food is in generalj dreflled by baking, as at Otaheite ; and they make fromj different forts of fruit, feveral difties which are very] good. They fometimes boil their fifti in the greenl leaves of the plantain tree, which ftjpa^as a bag to holdl both fifti and water : having tied them up, they wrapj them again in three or four other leaves, and place ther upon ftoncs heated for the purpofe : when they ar^ fiifficiently done, they not only eat the fifh, but drinl M CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 211 itiequal amboo, h ends, two of hem *m autnbof ;nd with L hand is e middle In this pkafmg, ^ has been y^y orna- hows and Its, iiich as .g of war. o feet long, tear four in Vidd\e,witlv e compoied and lome- vi'ixh ivory :ootb, ftiape ^f plantains, chief articles 3Ut the com- aogs, fowls, pnal dainties. lis in general ly make froml lich are very In the green labagtohold 3, they wrap id place them Jben they arj |fh, but di^ J thc^ liquor or foup. They are not very cleanly either in their cookery, or their manner of eating. Their ufiial drink at their meals is water, or cocoa nut milk, the kava being only their morning beverage. The food that is iervcd up to thv_ chiefs, is generally laid upon plantain leaves. The king, at hia meals, was commonly attend- ed upon by three or four of the natives, one of whom cut large .piccev"; of the fifli, or of the joint, another after- wards divided it into mouthfuls, and the reft flood by with cocoa nuts, and whatever elfe he might happen to want. We never observed a large company (it down to a fociable meal, by eating from the fame diih. The women are not excluded from taking their meals with the men ; but there are certain ranks that are not allow- ed either to eat or drink together. This diilindion begins with his majefty, but we know not where it ends. They rife at day-break, and retire to reft as foon as it becomes dark,. Tiiey, for the moft part, fleep alfo ia tbe day time, when the weather is very hot. They are fond of aiTociating together ; in confequence of which, it is not uncommon to iind feveral houfes empty, and the pofleflfors of them alTembled in fome other houfe, or upon fome convenient fpot in the neighbourhood, where they relax themfelvfes by converfation and other amufe- ments. Their private diverfions chiefly confift of dancing, finging, and mufic. When two or three women fnap their fingers, and fingin concert, it is called idnu; hut w^hen there are more, they form feveral parties, each of which fmgs in a different key, which conftitutes an agreeable melody, and is termed /jeeva or kka. The fongs are generally accompanied with the tnulic of their flutes. The dances both of the men and women, are performed with an eafe and ^race which ae difficult to be defcribed. We could not determine with precifion, whet!\er eir marriages were ren(5*;red durable by any kind of lemn contract : it is certain, however^ that the major itt of the people contented themfclves with one wife. VoLIL— N^si. DcJ Th« 212 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. The chiefs, indeed, commonly have feveral women, though there was only one who (as we thought) was conlidered in the light of miftrefs of the family. Though female chaftity feemed to be held in little eftimation, not a i'lni^h breach of conjugal fidelity happened, to our knowledge, during our wliole continuance at thef« iflands ; nor were the unmarried women of rank more liberal of their favours. But there were great numbers of a very different character. The concern Ihewn by thefe iflanders for the dead, is a ftrong proof of their humanity. Befides the tooge, which w^e have mentioned before, and burnt circles and ifcars, they ftrike a fliark*s tooth into their heads till the blood flows conliderably, beat their teeth with ttones, and thruft fpcars not only through their cheeks into their mouths, but alfo into the inner part of their thighs, i and into their fides. The more painful operatioiif, however, are only pradifed when they mourn the death of thofe who are moll nearly connecSled with them. I When one of them dies, he is wrapped up in mats and I cloth, and then interred. The fiatookas ieem to be ap- 1 prcpriated to the chiefs and other perfons of diftindion, as their burial places ; but the inferior people have no particular fpot fet apart for their interment. It is un- certain what part of the mourning ceremony follows immediately afterwards ; but there is fomething befides the general one which is continued for a conliderableB^^t^ time, the funeral of Mareewagee's wife being attended ■'"iniec with ceremonies of live days duration. They feem to confider death as a great evil, to avert which they prac- tife a very fmgular cuftom. When Captain Cook, during his fecond voyage, firft vifited thele iflands, he] obferved that many of the natives had one or both ol their little lingers cut off; of the reafon of which mu tilation he could not then obtain a fatisfadory account, But he was now informed, that they perform this ope ration when they are afflided with feme dangerou diforder, which they imagine may bring then\ to thi grave. They fuppofe, that the litde finger will be ac ceptci { u a th it fee dp ha.\ for hov\ card rend rilit} who mill wind when of th TAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 213 cepted of by the Deity, as a kind of propitiatory facrifice fufficiently efEcacious to procure their recover}^ la cutting it off, they make ufe of a flone-hatchet. There was fcarcely one perfon in ten wlio was not thus mu- tilated ; and they fometimes cut fo clofe, as to encroach upon that bone of the hand which joins the amputated finger. It is alfo common for the lower clafs of people to cut off a joint of their little finger, on account of the ficknefs of the chiefs to whom they refpcdlively belong. When the rigid ftridlnefs with which they perform their mourning and religious ceremonies is confidered, it might be expected, that they endeavoured thereby to fecure to themfelves eternal happinefs ; but their prin-^ cipal objed regards things merely temporal ; for they have apparently litde conception of future puniQiment for fins committed in the prefent life. They believe, however, that they meet with juft punifhment upon earth ; and, therefore, put every method in practice to render their divinities propitious. They admit a plu- rality of deities, all of them inferior to KaUafooiotiga^ who they fay is a female, and the fupreme author 01 mod things, rcfidinj in the heavens, and directing the wind, rain, thunder, &c. They are of opinion, that when (he is much difpleafed with them, the produdioiia of the earth are blafted, many things confumed by lightning, and themfelves afflicted with ficknefs arta vomert, \\x) was rhougH mation, 1, to our at thefi ak more numbers e dead, is he tocge, ircles and ids till the ith ftones, leeks into \6x thighs, operation?, n the death ,vith them. n mats and rn to be ap- diftlnaion, e have no It is un- Dny follows ^^'^^iderableB'^^*^^ > ^^^ *^^^ when her anger abates, every thing h '^ ttendedB'"'"^^^^^®^^' reftored to its former ftate. Among their ^^ \ em toB^^^''^^"*^^^ deities, they mention Futtafaihe^ or Footafom^ ^^y Hwho has the adminiftration of the fea, and its produc- ions ; Toofooa-toohooloOy god of tl'ie clouds and fog ; TaU 'sbooy MattabOy Tareea'va^ and others. The fame fyftem religion does not extend all over the Friendly Illands ; e fupreme deity of Hapaee, for inftance, being called /« Alo, They entertain very abfurd opinions relative the power and various attributes of thefc beings, who^ y fuppofe, have no further concern with them after ith. They have, however, jufter fentiments refpedt- the immortality and immaterialitj^ of the loul ; D d 2 which I they pi -ktaVn Cc 214 CAPTAIN COOK'9 THIRD VOYAGE. which they call life, the living principle, or an Oima^ that is, a divinity. They imagine that, immediately after death, the fouls of their chiefs are feparated from their liodies, and go to a delightful region called BooJeoioo^ the god of which is named Gsolebo. By this Gooleho they probably perfonify death. His countr)', r.ccording to their mythology, is the general repolitory of the dead ; and thofe who are once conveyed thither, are no more fulsje^t to death, but feaft on all the favourite produiftions of their native foil, with which this blifsful abode is plen- tifully furnilhed. As for the fouls of people of an in- ferior clafs, they are fuppofed by them to iuffer a kind of tranfmigration ; or are eaten up (they fay) by a bird called loatay which walks upon the graves with that intent. They do not worfliip any vifible part of the creation, or awy thing made by their own hands. They make no offerings of dogs, hogs, and fruit (as is the cuflom at Otaheite) unlefs emblematically. But there feems to be no reafon to doubt of their offering up human facrifices. Their fiatookas, or morais, are, in general, burying grounds and places of worfhip : fome of them, however, appeared to be appropriated only to the former purpofej but thefe were fmall and greatly inferior to the reft. We are very litde acquainted with their form o government. A fubordination, refenibling the feud i'yftem of our anceftors in Europe, iseftabliihed araon^ them ; but of its fubdivifions, ^nd the conftituent parta we arc ignorant. Though fome of them informed us«orp, that the king's power is unbounded, and that he has th(]ni/n abfolute difpofal of the lives and properties of his fu je£ls ; yet the few circumftances that offered themfelvi to our obfervation, contradicted, rather than coniirmci the idea of defpotic fvray. Mareewagee, Feenou, ani Old Toobou, ai^ed each the part of a petty fovereigj and not unfrequcntly counteradked the meafures of t king. Nor was his court fuperior in fplendor to thofe pid Toobou and Mareewagee, who next tohismajeft y^^re the moll potent chiefs iti thefe iflands ; and, x\t\ • ■ aft / a n ai th tlia 8St iJ/lJ ferv are atte arc liim Ideliv \'lt CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 215 after them, Feenou appeared to (land higlieft in rank and authority. But, however independent on the king the principal men may be, the inferior people are total- ly rubje<£t to the will of the chiefs to whom they feveral- iy belong. The ifland of Tongataboo is divided into numerous diRrifts, each of which has irs peculiar chief, who dif- tributes juftice, and decides difputes within his own ter- ritory. Moft of thefe chieftains have eftates in othar iflands, whence they procure fupplies. The king, at ftated times, receives the produd of his diftant domains at Tongataboo, which is not only the ufual place of his r^fidence, but the abode of moft pcrfons of diftindioas among tliefe iflands. Its inhabitants frequently call it the Land of Chiefs, and lligmatize the fubordinate ifles with the appellation of Lands of Servants. TTie chiefs are ftyled by the people lords of the earth, andvalfo of the fun and fky. The royal family afllime the name of Futtafaihe, from the god diftingullhed by that appellation, who is probably confidered by them as their tutelary patron. The king^s peculiar title is fiiiiply Tooee Tonga. The order and decorum ob-» fervea in his prefence, and likewife in that of the chiefs, are truly admirable. Whenever he fits down, all the attendants feat themfelves before him, forming a femi- drcle, and leaving a fufficient fpace between them and ^ liim, into which no one, unlefi he has particular bufi- ftUuent partsBnefs, prefumes to come, Nor is any one fufFered to fit 'nformcd usBor pafs behind him, or even near him, >vithout Ids per- ^ ' Biiirion. When a peribn wiihes to fpeak to his majefty, |liecomesrforward,and having feated himfelf before him, livers in a few words what he has to fay ; then, after ing favoured with an anfwcr, retires. If the king aks to any one, the latter gives an anfwer from his it, unlefs he is to receive an order ; in which cafe he nfes from his place, afid feats himfelf crofs-legged^ be- ^ . foi^e ffoa, that E\y after im their Woo, the lebo they Drding to lie dead ; II o more odudtons de is p^r^- . of an in- ffev a kind \ by a bird with that creation, or jy make no !e ci\ftom at slcem&tobe lan facrifices. 'ra\, burying tn, however, ^r purpole \ the reft, eir formo the feuoi rShed amon m kat he has tb' les of his W ed themi^eW ap confirms i'eenou tty fovereig eafures of tl dor to thole tohi8tna3e« d*; an(3,ne I* It m^y be proper to mention here, on the authority of Cnpt. Kin^, 2l6 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. fore his mnjefty. To fpeak to the king (landing, would here be confidered as a glaring mark of rudencfs. None of the mcft civilized nations have ever exceed- ed thefe iflanders in the great order and regularity main- tained on every occalion, in ready and fubmiflive com- pliance with tne commands of their chiefs, and in the perfedl harmony that fubfifts among all ranks. Such a behaviour manifefls itfelf in a remarkable manner, ■whenever their chiefs harangue a body of them aflem- bled together, w^hich frequently happens. The greateft attention and moft profound filence are obferved during the harangue ; and whatever might have been the pur- port of the oration, we never faw a fingle inftance when any one c' uiofe who were prefent mewed figna of his being difpleafed, or fecmed in the leaft inclined to difpute the declared will of the fpeaker. It 19 a peculiar privilege annexed to the perfon of the king, not to be pundured, nor circumcifed, or r.-«ther fupercifed, as all his fubjedts are. Whenever he walks out, all who meet him muft fit down till he has pafied. No perfon is fuffered to be over his head 5 but, on the contrary, all muft come under his feet. The method of doing homage to him, and the other chiefs, is as fol- lows : the perlSn who is to pay obeifance, fquats down before the great perfonage, and bows the head down to the fole of his foot, which he taps or touches with the under and upper fide of the fingers of each hand ; then lifing up, he retires. We had rcafon to think, that hk majeily cannot refufe any one who is defirous of paying him this homage, which is called by the natives moc moea ; for the people would frequently think proper to fhew l.im thefe marks of fubmiflion when he was walkin y ; and he was on thofe occafionj obliged to flop, atid hold up one of his feet behind him, till they had perfornied this refpedful ceremony. This, to io cor- King,- that this poflurc is pcculiqr to the men ; for the female* al- ways fit with both their legs thrown a little on one fide. CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. ^'7 com- uch a Liofthe r rVLhey le walks spaded. :, onthe : method lis as fol- down to iwitb the td; then thathia )f paying ives moe jroperto he was )liged to till they lis to lo cor* female* al' corpulent and unwieldy a man as Pouhho, mud have been painful and troublefome; and we huve fome- times Teen him endeavour, l)y running,^ to {^ct out of the way^ or to reach a convenient place for Irtting down. The hands, after having been thus applied, become ia feme cafes ufelefs for a little time ; for till they are wa(h- cd they muft not touch food of any fort. This prohi- bition, in a country where water is far from being plentiful, would be attended with inconvenience, if a piece of any juicy plant, which they can immediately procure, being rubbed over the hands, did not ferve for the purpofe of purification. When the hands are in this lituation they term it taboo rema ; the former word - generally fignifymg forbidden, and the latter implying hand. When the taboo is incurred by doing homage to a perfon of rank, it may thus eafily be wafhed ofFs but in feveral other cafes it mult contmue for a certain period. We have often feen women who have been taboo rema not fed by themfelves, but by others. The interdicted perfon, after the limited time has elapfed, wadies herfelf in one of their baths, which are in gene- ral dirty ponds of brackifli water. She then waits upon the fovercign, and after having paid the cuftomary obeifance, takes hold of his foot, which (he applies to her fhoulders, breaft, and other parts : he then embraces her on both (houlders, and me immediately retires, purified from her uncleannefs. If it be always neceifa- ry to have recourfe to his majefty for this purpofe (of |which we are not certain, though Omai aflured us it iwas) it may be one reai'on for his travelling very fVe- uently from one iflund to another. The word taboo has a great latitude of fignification. bey call human facrifices tangata taboo ; and when iny particular thing is prohibited to be eaten or made ifc of, they fay it is taboo. They informed us, that if [he king ihould go into a houfs belonging to one of his ibjeds, that houfe would in confequence become ta- Do, and could never be again inhabited by the owner if it} fo that wherever his majefty travels there are houfes 2i8 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. houfes peculiarly ailigned for hiR accommodation. At this time Old Tooboii prelided over the taboo ; that is, if Omai did not milbnderlland thofe who gave him the intelligence, he and his deputies had the infpedion of all the produce of the ifland, taking care that each indi- vidual fliould cultivate and pbnt his quota, and dired- ing what (hould and what (liould not be eaten. By {q prudent a regulation, they take effedtual precautions againft a famine ; fuificient grou{\d is employed in raif- ing provifions ; and everv article is fecured from un- neceflary confumption. fey another good regulation, an officer of rank 18 appointed tofuperintend the police. This department was adminiflered while we continued among them, by Feenou, whofe bufmefs (as we were informed) it was, to punifli all delinquent^ : he was ai- fo general) flimo, or commander in chief ot the forces of the iflands. Poulaho himfelf declared to us, that if he ihould become a bad man, Feenou would dethrone and kill him ; by which he doubtlefs meant, that if he neg leded the duties of his high ftation, or governed ir manner that would prove prejudicial to the public w^. fare, Feenou would be delired by the other chiefs, or by the colledive body of the people, to depofe him from his fovereignty, and put hiin to death, A monarch! thus fubjed to controul and punifliment for abufe of I power, cannot juftly be deemed a defpotic prince. f When we take into confideration the number of) iflands of which this Hate conlifls, and the diftanceatf which fome of them are removed from the feat of go- vernment, attempts to throw ofFthe yoke of fubjedionl might be apprehended. But they informed us, thatl this circumltance never happens. One reafon of their| not being thu/j embroiled in domeftic commotions ma^ be this ; that all the p^ncipal chiefs take up their refii dence at Tongataboo. They alio fecure the depenJ dence of the other ifles, by the decifive celerity of theiJ operations ; for if a feditious and popular man fhould fiart up in any of them, Feenou, or whoever happen^ to held Iiis office, is immediately difpatched thither ta to Poul giiiHiJ When formecj him a Vol. CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. '9 put him to death ; by which means they extinguilh an mlurrces had paifed, which had no furf upon it. But the Captain did not chufe to rifk the advantar^e of a fair wind, in order to examine an ifland, that appeared to be '^ut of little confequence. We required no refrelhments, if we had been certain of meeting with them there, and there- fore, after making feveral unfuccefsful attempts to pre- vail upon thefe people to co!ne near us, we made fail to the N. and Icit them ; having liril learned that the name of their ifland was Toobouai. It is fituated in the latitude of 23 d. 25 m. S. and in 210 d. 37 m. E, longitude. 'file greatefti extent of this ifland, in any diredlion, is not above five or fix miles. Small, however, as it ap- pears, there are hills in it ol a coalidcrablc elevation ; at the :24 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. the foot of which, is a narrow border of flat land, ex- tending almoft all round it, bordered with a white fand beach. The hills are covered with herbage, except a few rocky cliffs, with patches of trees int.erfperfed to their fummits. This ifland, as we were informed by tlie men in the canoes, is plentifully Hocked with hrgs and fowls ; and produces the fcveral kinds of fruits and roots that are to be met with at the other illands in this neighbourhood. From the converfation we had with thofe who came oiFto us, we difcovered that the inhabitants of Toobouai fpeak the Otaheitc. language; an indubitable proof that they are of the fame nation. Thofe whom we faw in the canoes, were a llout copper coloured people ; fome wearing their hair (which was flraight and black) flow- ing about the fiioulders, and others having it tied in a bunch on the crown of the head. T'heir faces were roundifh and full, but the features flat ; and their coun- tenances expreifed a degree of natural ferocity. Their covering was a piece of narrow fluff wrapped round the waift, and palfing between the thighs ; but feme of thofe 'vvhoni we beheld upon the beach, were com- pleatly clothed in white. Some of our vifitors, in the canoes, had their necks ornamented with pearl (hells ; and one of them continued blowing a large conch ihel), to which a reed, of about two feet long, was fixed ; he began in a long tone, without any variation ; and after- ^.^wards converted it into a kind of muiical inflrument. ~^ Whether the blowing of the conch portended anything, we cannot fay, but we never found it the meffcnger of The length of their canoes appeared to be about thirty feet, and they rofe about two teet abov^ the furface ofl the water, as they floated. The fore part projeded al little ; the after part rofe to the height of two or three^pp feet, with a gradual curve, and, like the uj.per part o the fides, was carved all over. 'J he reR of the iidej were ornamented with flat v;hite (hells curioully dif pofed. There were eight men in one of the canoes , an par not ion 'Atl ■e. for |crk) ere leeti E. land, ex- ^rhitc fand except a rperfcd to brmed by with hcjs • fruits and nds irt this who came fToobouai ; proof that -we iaw H\ oplc; fome 3lack) flow- it tied in a r faces were L their cou'> citv. Their pped round 3- but feme 1 were com- [ifitors, in the pearl (hells; ; conch ihell, as fixed; be ; and atter- inftrument. ed any thing, meflcnger ot about thirty (he furface oil It proje£ted aj two or three] In -per part of Vof theiiH Icuriouily dit-l the canoeHj anil CAPTAIN COOK'* THIRD VOYAGE. 225 and feven in the other. They were concluded with fmall paddles, whofe blades were almoft circular ; and they loinetimes paddled, with the two oppofite fides (0 clofe together, that they appeared to be but one boat ; the rowers occafionally turning their faces to the ftern, and pulling that, way, without paddling the canoes round. Seeing we w ere determined to leave them, they flood up, and repeated fomething aloud ; but we knew not whether they were expreffing their enmity, or friendfhip. It is certain, however, that they had not ai)y weapons witL them ; nor could we with our glafTes uilcover, that thofe on fhore were armed. Leaving the ifland, we fleered to the N. with a freflx gale, and, at day-^ break,. on the 12th, we perceived the illand of Maitea. Otaheite appeared foon after ; the point of Oheitepeha Bay bearing W. about four leagues diltant. We fleered for this bay, intending to anchor there, in order to draw fome refreihinents from the S. E. part of the ifland, before we proceeded to Matavai, where we expedled our principal fupply. We had a frefh gale till two o'clock in the afternoon ; when, at I about a league from the bay, the wind fuddenly died lawav. About two hours after, we had fuddea hjualls. wirii rain, from the £. About nine o'clock, we were obliged to (land out, and fpend the night at fea. As we drew near the ifliind, we were attended by fe- veral canoes, each conducted by two or three men. Bur» iisihey were of the lower clafs, Omai feemed to take no particular notice ofthein, nor they of him. They did not even know that he was one of their countrymen, iliough they had for feme time converfed with him, Aikngih a chief, whom Captain Cook had known be- ifoie, named Ootee, and Omai's brother in-law, who |ltippened to be now at this corner of the illand, and thre.: [or four others, all of whom knew Omai, before he em- liked with Captain Furneaux, came on board. Yet ere was nothing in the leafl tender or flriking in their leeting, but, on the contrary, a perfcdl indifference on ith fides, till Omai, condudirg his brother into the cabm, 226 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. » II d tl be m ed qi] bo of ere tra< vail waj pre cabin, opened a drawer, and gave him a few red feathers. This circumftance being foon communicated to the r^lt of the natives on deck, Ootee, who before would hard- ly fpeak to him, now begged, thttt they might be tayos (friends) and exchange names. Omai accepted of the honour, and a prefent of red feathers ratified the agree- ment ; and Ootee, by w^ay of recompence, Cent alhore for a hog. It was evident, however, to all of us, that it was not the man, but his property, that they efteemed. Had he not exhibited his treafure of red feathers, a commodity highly eftimated in the ifland, it is a matter of great doubt Whether they would have beftowed a lingle cocoa nut upon him. Such was Omai's fir ft re- ception among his countrymen, and we never expeded it would be otherwife ; but we fuppofed, that the valu- able cargo of prefents, with which he had been loaded by the liberality of his friends in England, would be the certain means of raifing him into confequence amongB fy. the firft perfons throughout the extent of the SocietyB witl Illands. This, indeed, muft have been the cafe, had hel beac conducted himfelf with any degree of prudence ; but he| paid little or no attention to the repeated advice of his well-wifhers, and laid himfelf open to every impofi tion. We underftood from the natives who came off to m that fince Captain Cook lafl vifited this ifland in 1 774 two other fhips had twice been in Ohcitepeha Bay, an had left animals there, like thofe we had on board. But] on inquiry into the particulars, we found, tlmt they con fifted only of hogs, dogs, goats, a bull, and the male another animal,which they fo imperfeclly defcnbed,rh we could not conjedure what it was. Thefe lliips, the informed us, had come from a place called Keemai which we fuppofed to be Lima, the capital of Pern, an that thefe late vilitors were confequently Spaniard They told us, that the firft time they arrived, they buij a houfe, and left behind them two priefts, a boy or lei vant, and a perfon called Mateema ; taking away vi\ them, when they failed, four of the natives j that "1 "^ CAPTAIN COOK*8 THIRD VOYAGE. 227 ten months afterwards, the fame fhipp returned, bring- ing back only two of the natives, the other two having died at Lima ; and that, after a (hort ftay, they took a- way the people they had left ; but that the houfe which they ereAed was left (landing. News having been propagated on (bore, of red feathers being on board our fhips, we were* early the next morning, furrounded by a multitude of canoes, crowd- ed with people, with plenty of hogs and fruits. A quantity of feathers, which might be taken from the body or a tom-tit, would, at that time, purchai'e a hog of forty or fifty pounds weight. But as the whole (hips' crew were po(re(red of fome of this precious article of trade, it decreafed above five hundred per cent, in it$ value in a few hours. However, the balance, even then, was confiderably in our favour, and red feathers ftill preferved their (uperiority over every other comr\odl- ty. Some of the iflanders would not difpofe of a hog, without receiving an axe in exchange ; but nails, and beads, and many other trinkets, which, during our for- mer voyages, were held in high eftimation at this ifland, were now fo much defpifed, that few would even deign to look at them. Not having wind in the morning, it was nine o'clock before we could anchor in the bay, when we moored with the two bowers. We had not long anchored, before Omai's filler came on board, to congratulate him on his arrival. It was pleafing to obferve, that, to the honour of each of them, their meeting was marked with ex- preflfions of the tendered affedion, more eafily conceiv- I ed than defcribed. When this affeding fcene was clofed, and the (liip I properly moored, Omai attended Capt. Cook on (hore. The Captain's firft objed was to pay a vifit to a man whom Omai reprefented as a very extraordinary per- fonage indeed, laying he was the God of Bolabola. They faw him feated under one of thofe awnings, which are ufually carried in their larger canoes. He jwas old, and had fa fat loft the ufe of his limbs, that hei Vol. II. N''. 32. . F f was 228 CAPTAIN COOK'g THIRD VOYAGE. was carried from place to place upon a hand-barrow. By fome, he was called Olla or Orra, which is the name of the God of Bolabola ; but his real name was Etary. From Omai's extraordinary account of this perfon, the Optain expected to have feen religious adoration paid to him : but he faw very little to diilin^uifh him from j their other chiefs. Omai prefented to him a tuft of red feathers, faftened to the end of a fmall ftick ; but, after a iitde converfation with this Bolabola man, his atten- tion was excited by the prefence of his mother's fiftcrJ who was already at his feet, and had bedewed them plentifully with t,ears of joy. The Captain left him with the old lady in this iituation, furrounded by a number of people, and went to take a furvey of the houfe faid to have been eredted by the ftrangerswho had lately landed here. He found it ftill (landing at a I fmall diftance from the beach. It was compofed of) ^vooden materials, which appeared to have been brought [ hither, ready prepared, in order to fet up as occaiion might require; for the planks were all numbered. It confined of two fmall rooms, in the inner of which, were a bedllead, a bench, a table, fome old hats, and other trifles, of which the natives feemed *" be remark- ably careful, as well as of the building itfeltj which had received no injury from the weather, a kind of (lied liaving been ere^ed over it. Scuttles, ferving as air holes, appeared all round the building ; and, perhaps,! they were alfo meant for the additional purpofe of firingl from, with mu(kets, if necefTity (hould require it. Al wooden crofs was placed at a Iitde diftance from thej front, on the tranlVerfe part of which appeared thej following infcription : Chrijius Vimit, On the perpendicular part (which confinned our con^ jedare that the two (hips were Spanidi) was engraved, >.^ Carolus III. i//^fn?/, 1774. And CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 22^ l-barrow* 8^*^^ on the other fide of the poft, Captain Cook very the name Mproperly preferred the memory of the prior vil'fts of ras Etary. 1^^ Englifh, by infcribing, erfon, tlie ation paid him from tuft of red but, after his atten- tier's fitter, Georgiui ieriius rex^ Annis 1767, i7^9» i773> 1774,^' 1777- n nded by a rvey of the angers who anding at a Near the foot of the crofs the iflanders pointed out to ; the grave of the Commodore of the two fhips, who wed themB^d here, while they lay in the bay, on their nrft arri- left himB*^' ^"^*^ name, as near as we could gather from their ominciation, was Oreede. The Spaniards, whatever leir intentions might be in vifiting this ifland, Teemed have taken infinite pains to have ingratiated them-> Ives with the natives ; who, upon all occafions, men- DiTipofed of fcs^ them with the ftrongeft terms of elleem and ve- een brought^^i^"* as occauonBO" this occafion, the Captain met with no chief of mbered. ItBf confiderable note, excepting the aged perfonage a-^ of whichA'C defcribed. Waheiadooa, king of Tiaraboo, (as \A hats andfc P*^'^ of the iiland is called by the natives) was now - be remark-fc^f > ^"^ w^ were afterwards informed, that (though name was the fame) he was not the fame perfon aa chief whom Captain Cook had feen here in 1774; his brother, a youth of ten years of age, who had ceedcd the elder Waheiadooa. We alio difcovered, the celebrated Oberea was dead ; but that Otoo, and ou'^ other friends, were living. from thcBVhen Captain Cook returned from the houfe ereded nearcd theB^^e Spaniards, he found Omai haranguing a very ^ ^e company ; and could with difficulty difengage to accompany him aboard, where he had to fetde a :er of importance. nowing that Otaheite, and the neighbouring iflands, id fupply us plentifully with cocoa nuts, the liquor ihich IS a moft excellent beverage, he withed to pre- upoii his people to confent to be abridged, for a uiort of their dated allowance of fpirits to mix with Anip F f 2 water. \ which had ind of flied ving as air d, perhaps, ofe of firing uire it. A ed our con^ Is engraved, 23© CAPTAIN COOK-8 THIRD VOYAGE. water. But as this, without affigning fome powerful rcafon, might have occafioned a general murmur, he aflembled the (hip's company, to communicate to them the intent of the voyage, and the extent of our future operations. He took notice of the generous rewards offered, by parliament, to fuch as fiiall firft difcover a | communication between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, I in the Northern Hemifphere, as well as to thofe who fliall firft penetrate beyond the 89th degree of northern latitude. He faid, that he did not entertain a doubtj that he (hould find them ready to co-operate with himf in attempting to obtain one, or both thefe rewards ; but that it would be neceflary to be ftridly occonomical inl the expenditure of our ftores and provifions, as we hadl not a chance of getting a fupply after leaving thefef iilands. He further oblerved, that the duration of oui; voyage wodd exceed by a year, at leaft, what had beer originally fuppofed, by our having loft the opportunity of getting to tn« north this fummer. He begged them to confider the various obftrudions, and aggravated hardftiips, they muft yet labour under, if they fhoulij be under the necefiity of being put to fliort allowance of any fpecies of provifions, in a cold climate. 1 therefore fubmitted to them, whether it would not the moft advifeable to be prudent in time, and rathe than run the rifk of having their fpirits exhaufted,whej they might be moft wanted, to confent to be withoii their grog at prefent, when we could fupply its plag with 10 excellent a liquor as that of cocoa nuts, added, neverthelefs, that he would leave the determir tion entirely to their own choice. This propofal did not remain a moment under coij fideration, and Captain Cook had the fatisfadion to fiij that it was unanimoufly approved of. He order Captain Clerke to make a fimilar propofal to his pie ; which they alfo readily agreed to. The fervingj grog was therefore immediately ftopped, except Saturday nights, when all the men had a full alloj ance of it, to enable them to drink the healths of tbj fem( to ni( Oi C( Ti CAPTAIN COOK»8 THIRIi VOYAGE. 331 female friends in England ; left, amidft the pretty girls of Otaheite, they fhould be totally forgotten. We began, the next day, fome necefl'ary operations ; fuch as infpedting the proyinons in the main and fore hold, getting the cafks of beef and pork, &:c. out of the grou TU tier, and puttinjij a quantity of ballaft in their place. The (hip was ordered to be caulked, which (he ftood in much need of; having, at times, made a con- fiderable deal of water on our paflage from the Friendly lilands. Captain Cook alfo pat his tattle on Ihore, and appointed two of his men to look alter them while grazing ; not intending to leave any of them on this part of the ifland. It rained, almoft incefTindy, the two following days ; notwithftanding which, we were vilited by the natives from every quarter, the news of (nir arrival having moft rapidly fpread. Waheiadooa, though at a ccnfi- derable diftance, had been informed of it ; and in the afternoon of the i6th, a chief, named Etorea, who was his tutor, brought Captain Cook two hogs as a prefent from him ; acquainting him, at the fame time, that ha himfelf would attend him the day after. He was punctual to his promife; for the Captain received a meilage from him early the next morning, notifying his arrival, and requefting he would go alhore to meet him. In confequence of this invitation, Omai and he prepared to make him a formal vifit. Omai, on this occafion, took pains to drels himfelf, not after the man- ner of the Englifti, nor that of Otaheite, or Tongataboo, or in the drefs of any other country upon earth ; but in a ftrange medley of all the habiliments and ornaments he was pofleffed of. Thus equipped, thjey got afhore, and firft paid a vifit toEtary; who, carried on a hand-barrow, accompa- nied theni to a large building, where he was fet down ; Omai feated himfelf on one fide of him, and Captaui Cook on the other. The Captain caufed a piece of Tongataboo cloth to be fpread, on which were placed the 232 CAPTAIN COOK't THIRD VOYAGE. the prefents he intended to make. The young chief foon after arrived, attended by his mother and leveral principal men, who all feated themfelves oppofite to us. A man who fat near the Captain, made a fhort fpeech, confiding of feparate fentences ; part of which was di£l:ated by thofe about him. Another, on the op- pofite (ide, near the chief, fpoke next ; Etary after him, a nd then Omai, &c. The fubjedvS of thefe orations were C^aptain Cook? arrival, and his connedlions with them. Amongft other things, one of them told the Captain, that the men of Reema (the Spaniardr.) defired they wouM not fuffer him to come into Oheltepeha Bay, if he (hould return again to the ifland, for that it was their proper- ty ; but that, fo far from regarding this requeft, he was authorized now to furrender to liim the province of Tiaraboo, and every thing that was in it. It is evident from this, that thefe people are no ftrangers to the po- licy of accommodating tnemfelves to prefent circum- ftances. The young chief, at length, was diredled, by his attendants, to embrace Giptain Cook ; and, as a confirmation of this treaty of friendfhip, they exchanged names. After thefe ceremonies were over, he and his friends accompanied the Captain, to dine with him on board. Omai had prepared, as a prefent for Otoo, the king of the whole ifland, a maro, compofed of red and yellow feathers ; and, confidering where we were, it was a pre-* fent of great value. Capt.Cook endeavoured toprevail on him not to produce it now,wi(hing him to keep it till he had an opportunity of prefenting it to Otoo with his own hands. But he entertained too good an opinion of the fidelity of his countrymen, to be guided by his advice. He w3lI determined to carry it afliore, on this occalion, and to give it to Waheiadooa, to be forwarded by him to Otoo, and added to the royal maro. By this manage- inent he fuppofed he fhould oblige both chiefs ; on the contrary, he highly difobliged that whofc favour was of mpft confequence to him, without obtaining any reward from the other. The Captain w^s prophetic upon this occa- n CAPTAIN COOIC'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 235 Iff chief . Tevcral ofite to a fhort f which the op- ter him, >ns were h them. ain,that ^ woiiM e (houl J )vinc< \ evident ) the pc- circum- j£ked, by nd, as a cchanged p and hia I him on * e king of d yellow ras a pre-* revail on ) it till he [ his own m of the 8 advice, jccalion, by him |manage- ; on the X was of reward [pon this occa- occafion; for Wahciadooa, as he expelled, kept the maro for himfelf, and only fent to Oto(> about a twen- tieth part of what compoled the magniiicent prcfent. On the 19th, Capt. Cook receive J, from the younff chief, a prcient of ten or a dozen hogs, fome clotn, and a quantity of fruit. In the evening, we exhibited Ibme fire- works, which both pleafed and ailonilbed the nu- merous fpedlators. Some of our gentlemen, in their walks, difcovcrcd, as they thought, a Roman Catholic chapel. They dc- fcribed the altar which they faid they had feeii, and every other conftitucnt partof fuch a place of wcrihip. They mentioned, however, at the fame time, that two perfdtis, who had the care of it, would not permit them to go in ; on which account the Captain imagined they were miftakcn, and had the curiolity to pay a viiit to it himfelf The fuppofed chapel happened to be a toopa- paoo, in which the body of the late Waheiadooa lay, m a kind c*" Itatc. It was in a pretty large houfe, encloi'ed with i' ''"'v palifade. The toopapaoo was remarkably neat, and refembled one of thole little awnings over their large canoes. It was hung and covered with cloths {and mats of a variety of colours ^ which had a beauti- ful effed. One piece of Ibarlet bro«d cloth of the length of four or five yards, appeared coni'picuous among the other ornaments ; which had probably been received as aprefent from the Spaniards. This cloth, ind fome Mds of feathers, fuggefled to our gentlemen the idea lof a chapel; and their imagination fupplied vhatever hlfe was wanting to create a refemblance ; heaving that |lhe Spaniards had vifited this place, might alfo operate on their minds upon this occafion, and add to t le pro- ability of its being a chapel. Small oiferings of fruits ^nd roots feemed to be daily made at this (hrine, fome Dieces being now quite frcfh. Thefe were depolited on lidnd of altar, which ftood without the palifadei •, with- which we were not permhted to enter. Two men onftantly attended here, both night and day ; as well I watch over the place, as todrefs and undrefs the too- papaoo. 234 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. papaoo. When' Captain Cook went to fiirvey it, the cloth and its appendages were rolled up ; but, at his re- queft, the two attendants placed it in order, but not till after they had diefled themfelves in clean white robes. The chief, we were informed, had been diiad about twenty months. Having provided a frefh fupply of writer, and finifli- ed all our neceflary operations, on the 2 2d we brought off our animals from fliore, and made ready for iea. While the (hips were unmooring, Omai and Captain Cook landed in the morning of the 23d, to take leave! of the young chief. While they were with him, one| of thofe perfons, whom they call Eatooas, from a per- fuation that they poffefs the iplrit of the Divinity,! prefented himfelf before them. He had all the appear- ances of infanity about him, and his only covering #Ss] ^ quantity of plantalii leaves wrapped round his waiftj He uttered what he had to fay in a low, fqueaking voice,] £0 as hardly to be underftood. But Omai faid he per- feftly comprehended him, and that he was adviling Wa-| heiadooa not to accompany Captain Cook to Matavai, an expedition which he had never known that he in- tended, nor had the Captain ever made fuch a propoialj to him. The Eatooa alfo predidcd, that the fhips would not arrive that day at Matavai. In this, how^ ever he was miftakcn ; though appearances, at tliail time, favoured his affertion, as there was not a fingk breath of wind in any direction. While he was d3iJ vering his prophecy, a heavy fhower of rain came oni which occafioned all to run for fheltcr, except himfelf who appeared to difregard it. He continued fqueakinc about half an hour, and then retired. No attention waj paid to what he uttered, though fome of the nativcj laughed at him. Captain Cook afked the chief, whether he was a^ Earee or a Towtovv ? The anfwer he received wac, tha he was taata eno, that is, a bad man. And yet, nofl l^ith(Unding this, and the little notice taken of the maj prophet, fuperilition fo far govern^ the natives, th^ diel Vol. *' finifti. )rought for lea. Captain :e leave im, one n a per- )ivinity,l appear- 1 ring "^m as walftJ ng vokeJi d he per- fmg Wa- Matavai, lat he iiy L propoia) the (hips his, how- B, at thai )t a fingk was delH I came onj pt himfelf fqueakinj mtion "'" he nalivel CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. ^3; they abfolutelv believe fuch perfons to be poflTefled with the fpirit of the £atooa». Omai feenned-to be well in- flru^ed concerning them. He faid, that, during the fits, with which they are feized, they know no body, and that if any one of thenj is a man of property, he will then give away every moveable he poflefles, if hia friends do not put them out of his reach ; and, when he recovers, he feems not to have the leaft remembrance of what he had done during the time the fit was upoa him. Soon after the Captain got on board, a light breeze fpringing up at E. we got under faiU and the Refolu- tion anchored, the fame evening, at Matavai Bay ; but the Difcovery did not get in till the next morning; confcquently the man's prophecy was half fulfilled. Vol. IL— N» 32. Gg Interview I i30 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. Interview with Otoo, King of Otaheite — Imprudent Beha- viour ofOtnai — Various Animals landed — Occupations on Shore — Vifit from a Native who had been at Lima — Ac* count of Oedidce — Falfe Report — The IJlanders make a pre- cipitatc Retreat^ but foon return^^A Rebellion in Eimep '^Council of Chiefs — War with Eimco refolved on — A Human Sacrifice — Circuwfiantial Defcription of that Solem- nity — The great Moral at Attabooroo defcribed — Bcha- viour of the Natives during the Ceremony-'-^Particular Cu/loms, . ' •. . , 7 ON Sunday the 24th, in the morning, Otoo, the king of the whole iHanJ, accompanied by a great number of the natives in th'Jir canoes, came from Opar- re, his place of lefidence. and having landed on Mata- vai Point, fent a mefTengcr on board, intimating his de- iire to fee Captain Cook there. He accordingly went afhore, attended by Omai, and fome of the oiJicers, 7'hey found a vaft multitude of people afiembled on this occaiion, in the midft of whom was the king, with his father, his two brothers, and th.ee liders. The Captain went towards him and faluted him, being fol- lowed by Omai, who kneeled and embraced his legs. Though Omai had prepared himfelf for this ceremony, by drei)ing himfelf in his beft apparel, and behaved with great refped: and modefty, yet very little notice was taken of him. He made the king a prefent of two or three yards of gold cloth, and a large piece of red feathers, and the Captain gave him a gold>laced hat, a fuit of fine linen, fome tools, a quantity of red feathers,, and one of the bonnets worn at the Friendly lilands. This CAPTAIN COOjC's THIRD VOYAGE. 237 s on I pre- n — A Solem- •Bcha- rticular This vifit being over, the king, and all the royal fa- mily, accompanied Captain Cook on board, followed by feveral canoes, plentifully laden with all kind of pro- vifiona. Each of the family owned a part ; fo that the Captain Had a prefent from every '. ne of them ; and each received from him a feparate prefent in return. Not long after, the king's mother came on board, bring- ing with her fome provifions and cloth, which Ihe di- vided between the Commodore and Omai. l^hough ihe teer. was but litde noticed at firfl: by his country- men, they no fooner gained information of his wealth, th3n they began to court his friendfliip. Captain Cook encouraged this as far as lay in his power, being de- lirous of fixing him with Otoo. Intending to leave all his European animals at this ifland, he thought Omai would be able to give the natives fome inflrud.ion with. regai'd to their ufe, and the management of them. Be- lides, the Captain was convinced, that the farther he was removed from his native iOand, the more he would be refpedled. But unfortunately, Omai rejed:ed his ad- vice, and behaved in fo imprudent a manner, that he [loon loft the friendlhip of Otoo, and of all the moft onfiderable perfons at Otaheite. He affociated with one but ftrangers and vagabonds, whofe fole intention . ?a8 to plunder him : and, if the Giptain had not inter- officers. |^].g(|^ jjjgy would not have left him a fmgle article of hied oi\ i^j^y confequence. This condu^ drew upon him the will of the principal chiefs ; who found that they uld not obtain, from any one in either fhip, fuch va- able prefents as were heftowed by Omai on the law eft the people. After dinner, a party of us accompa- :(1 Otoo to Oparre, taking with us fome poultry, con- ling of a peacock and hen, a turkey-cock and hen, ee geefe, one gander, four ducks, and a drake. All jle wo left at Oparre, in the poflefilon of Otoo ; and [eei'e and ducKs began to breed, before we failed. ound there a gander, that Capt. Wallis had given berea ten years before ; we alfo met with feveral \ and the Spaniih bull, whom they kept tied to a G g 2 tree, 00, the • a gii'eat T\ Opar- n Mata- his de- '\y went nt\\ , CAPTAIN COOK-. THIRD VOTAGE.^ »3* . . fntno We never beheld a tree near the habitation of Otoa ^^ ^,,y^ finer animal of his kind, "e no^ u 6 ^^.^ , fM^encorv^eyedfrom^^^^^^^^ in order to be fhipped lor cui ^^^g ^^lat ne '^^° "^ WhUe we remained here, the cre^. ^^ D Fcovery's main-maft ^a^ came ^^^ 5S as •« had ever b«« '^^^ips were caulked ; M ^{ks were repaired ; ^o* °"^;^,^^^^^^ We hkew fd >irSSera1an£W^t^^ I'hichwuF. probaby, heJ^^^iSpl plants, were i a fair way of "?«= T'^ ti,e friendly Iflands, iw We had brought, from tne ^^^^, ^tW flwddock trees, jM,!l' j unU their growth Hf Villinallprobabaityfwceed,un .^ ,uno becheckeS by the f^^VameHt t)heitepeha hv i v,hich deftroyed a v>"f P'^^^'^g, .ffembled to tafte Spaniards, ^any ot the nat^es j^^ j^^, ,i CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 239 under foot. In that ftate Omai accklently found :t, and was rejoiced at the difcovery ; for he was confident, that if he had but grapes^ he could caiily make wine. Ac- cordingly, he had feveral flips cut off from the tree, with an intcntioii of carrying them away with Ivim ; and we pruned., and put in order, the remains of it. Before we had been two days at anchor in Matavai Bay, ^^^e were vilited by all our old friends, whofe names are mentioned in the narrative of Captain Cook's laft voyage. Not one of them came with empty hands ; fo that we had an amazing quantity of provliions, with- out any apprehenfions or exhaufting the ifland, whi^h prelentedtooTir eyes every mark of the moft exuberant fertility and abundance. Soon after we had arrived here, one of the iflanders, whom the Spaniards had car- ried with them to Lima, paid us a vifit ; but, in his ex- terior appearance, he w^as not diftinguifhable from the '•eft of his couritrymen. He ftill remembered fome Spanifh words, among which the moft frequent were, ft Sennor. We alfo found here the you-ng man whom we called Oedidee, but whofe real name is Heete-hcete. Captain Cook had carried him from Ulietca on board his (hip in 1773, and brought him back in the Tuccecd- ing year, after he had vifited the Friendly Iflands, New Zealand, Eafter Ifland, and the Marquefas. He had come from Bolabola (of which he was a native) to Ora- heite, about three months before, piohably with the fole view of gratifying his curiofity. He preferred the inndes, and even drels, of his countrymen to ours ; for, though Captain Cook gave him fome clothes, which our Board of Admiralty had thought proper to fend for his ufe (to which he added a cheft of tools, and feveral other articles, as a prefent from himfelf ) he, after a few days, declined wearing them. This inftance, as well as tint of the perfon wdio had been at Lima, may be ad- duced as a proof of the ftrong inclination of mankind in general to habits acq^uired at an early age; and it is perhaps no unreafonaole fuppofition, that even Omai, who had imbibed almoft the whole Engiifh manners. 240 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. will, in a fhort time after being left by us, return, like Oedidee, and the vifiter of Lima, to his own native gar- ments, and his original mode of life. In the morning of the 27th, a man from Oheitepeha informed us, that two Spanifli (hips had anchored in that bay the preceding night ; and to confirm this in- tdligence, he produced fome coarfe blue cloth, which, Ite laid, he had got out of one of the fhips. He fi:r- ther faid, that Mateema was in one of the (hips ; and that they would come to Matavai in two or three days. Thefe, and fome other circum fiances, which he men- tioned, gave the ftofy fo much the appearance of truth, that the Commodore difpatched Lieutenant Williamfon in a boat, to look into Oheitepeha Bay ; and, in the i>;ean time, both our fhips were put in a pofiure of de- fence. For, thougli England and Spain were at peace when he left England, he did not know but that a dif- ferent fcence might, by this time, have opened. Upon enquiry, however, we had reafon to imagine, that the relater of the llory had impofed upon us ; and this was put beyond ?.ll doubt, when Mr Williamfon returned the day following, who made his report to Captain Cook, that he had l^cen at Oheitepeha, and found that no iliips were there at prefent, nor had any been there fmce we left it. The people of this part of the illand, where we nov/ were ftationed, told us, indeed, at firll, that it was a ficSlion invented by thofe of Tiaraboo. But what view they could have, we could not conceive, imielrrthey fuppofed that the report would induce us to quit the illand, and thus depnve the inhabitants of Oaheite-nooe of the advantages they might otherwife reap from our fhips remaining there the natives of the two parts of the illand being inveterate enemies to C'lch other. Since we arrived at Matavai, the weather had beer^ very unfettled till the 29th ; before which day we were- * imable to gel equal altituder. of the fun for afcertaining the going of the time- keeper. The caulking, and other Repairs of the fhips, were ^^Ifo retarded by the fame caufe. CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 24 1 :eive, Ice us Its of Irwife res of ies to Ibeerx verc- [ning )thei* fame caufe. In the eveninn^ of this day, the iflandefs mrale a predpitiite retreat, both froin our land llatiun, arid from ou hoard the iiiips. V/c conjedured that this arofe from their knowijigtliat Tome theft had heen com- mitted, and apprei^cnding puniQiment on that account. At length, we bccarr.e acquainted with the whole affair. One ol ihc Sur' ';( ; it. ' i ut ««;" n < corpfc, ] cafionall tuft of r lome hai fice, and wrapped who, ho man wh( he had n hair, wai jelly fcnt of this Ia( trees, Ot the Eatoc prognofli Tlie CG der a tree wood, vi placed on thers wer which the men were He who i quarter o: lometimei at other ti various de himfel^ ( grant fuel deliver Ei) other thin* indeed, tl: prayed ne, other priel a prieft pli corpfe, an< prieft now received fr to another CAPTAIN COOK'* TIUP.D VOYAGE. ff/l5 corpfc, pronounced a long prayer, in which he was oc- canonally joined by the others, each of them holding a tuft of red feathers in his hand. During thiR prayer, fome hair was pulled olF the head of the intended facri- fice, and the left eye was taken out ; both which being wrapped up in a green leaf, were prefented to the king ; who, however, did not touch them, but gave, to the man who prefented them, the tuft of red feathers which he had received from Towha. This, with the eye and hair, was taken to the priefls. Not long after, his ma- jedy fent them another piece of feathers. In the courfe of this latt ceremony, a king-fifher making a noife in the trees, Otoo turned to Captain (^ook, faying, " That is the Eatooa ;" and feemed to gonfider it as a favourable prognoflic. The corpfe was then carried a little way, and laid un- der a tree ; near which were fixed three thin pieces of wood, varioufly carved, llie bundles of cloth were placed on a part of the moral ; and the tufts of red fea- thers were laid at the feet of the dead body, round which the priefls flationed themfelves ; and our gentle- men were now permitted to go as near as they pleafed. He who feemed to be the chief prieft: fpoke far about a quarter of an hour, with different tones and geftures ; iometimes appearing to expoftulate with the deceafed ; at other times, afking feveral queftions ; then making various demands, as if the dead perlon either had power himfelfj or intereft with the deity, to engage him to grant luch requefts ; among which he defired hint to deliver Eimeo, Maheine its chief, the women, hogs, and other things of the ifland, into their hands; which wasj indeed, the exprefs object of the facrifice. He then prayed near half an hour, in a whining tone, and two otlier priefts joined in the prayer, in the courfe of which a prieft plucked fome more hair from the head of the corpfe, and put it upon one of the bundles. The chief prieft now prayed alone, holding in his hand the feathernf received from Towha. Having finifhed, he gave them to another prieft, who prayed in like manner ; then all H h ^ the ! p 9 . p f~ 1A,6 CAPTAIN COOK'4 THIRD VOYAGE. the tufrs of feathers were placed upbn the bundles of cloth, which concluded the ceremony at this place. The dead body was now carried to the moft confpi-, cuous part of the morai, with the feathers and the two bundles of cloth, while the drums beat (lowly. The feathers and bundles were laid againft the pile of ftones, and the body at the foot of them. The priefts having again feated themfelves round the corpfe, renewed their prayers, while fome of their afliftants dug a hole about the depth of two feet, into which they threw the vidlim, and covered it over with ftones and earth. While they were committing the body to the grave, a boy fqueaked aloud, upon which Omai faid to Captain Cook, that it was the Eatooa. A fire having been made in the mean time, a lean half-ftarved dog was produced, and killed by twifting his neck. The hair was then finged off, and the entrails being taken out, were thrown into the fire, where they were left to l)e confumed ; but the kidney, heart, and liver, were only roafted, by beirpf put on heated ftones ; and the carcafe of the dog, af- ter being rubbed over with the blood, was, .with the liver, &c. laid down before the priefts, who were feated round the grave, praying. They for fome time uttered ejaculations over the dog, while two men, at intervals, beat very loud on two drinns; and a boy fcreamed, in a loud (hrill voice, three times. This, they faid, was to invite the Eatooa to feaft on the banquet that they had provided for him. When the priefts had finifhed their prayers, the body, heart, liver, &c. of the dog, were placed on a whatta, or fcaffold, about fu feet in height, on which lay the remains of two other dogs, and^of two pigs, which had been lately facrificed. The priefts and attendants now gave a kind of fliout, which put an end to the ceremonies for the prefent. The evening being arrived, our gentlemen were con- dud'cd to a houfe belonging to Potatou, where they were entertained and lodged for the night. Having been informed, that the religious rites were to be renewed the nfxt morning, they would not quit the place while CAPTAIN COOlI's TIHRD VOYAGE. 247 any thing remained to he feen. Some of them repaired to the fcene of adion early in the morning; and, foon af- terwards, a pig was facrificed, and laid npon the fame fcaftbld with the others. About eight o'clock, Otoo took our party ap;ain to the morai, where the priefls, and a great multitude of people were by this time aflfembled. The two bundles occupied the place where they had been depofited the preceding evening ; the* two drums were in the fiont of the morai, and the pricils were ftationed beyond them. The king placed himfelf between the drums, and defired Capt. Cook to ftand by him. The ceremony of this day began with bringing 1 ycung plantain tree, and laying it at his majtfly's fiee*-. ^ prayer was then repeated by the priefts, holding in their hands feveral tufts of red feathers, and alio a 1 plume of oftrich feathers, which the Commodore had prefented to Otoo on his firfl arrival. When the priefts had ended the prayer, they changed their ftation, and placed themfelves between our gentlemen and the mo- ral. One of them, the fame who had performed the principal part the preceding day, began another pray er» which continued near half an hour. During this pray- er, the tufts of red feathers were put, one by one, upon the ark of the Eatooa. Not long after, four pigs were Iproduced, one of which was immediately killed, and the |three others were taken to a neighbouring fty. One of the bundles was now untied ; and it was [found to contain the maro, with which the Otahciteans linvefl: their kings. When taken out of the cloth, it wai Ipread on the ground, at full length, before the priefls. It is a girdle about fifteen feet in length, and one foot pd a quarter in breadth, and is probably put on in the fame manner as the common maro, or piece of cloth, lied by thefc iflanders to wrap round the wai ft. It was |)mamented with yellow and red feathers ; but princi- fally with the former. One end of it was bordered nth eight pieces, about the fize and figure of a horfe-* \% whole edges were fringed with black feathers* The 248 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. "Hie other end wav=i forked, having the points of various Jknotf lengths,, The feathers were ranged m two rows, in fquare compartments, and produced a pleafing efFed. They had been firft fixed upon forne of the cloth of the ifland, and then fewecl to the upper end of the pendant which Captain Wallis had left flying on fliore, the firft time of his arrival at Matavai. The priefts pronounced a lon^ prayer, relative to this part of the ceremony ; and after it was ended, the badge of royal- ty was folded up with great care, and put into the j cloth. Th« otlier bundle, which we have already mention- ed under the name of the ark, was next opened, at one end ; but our party were not permitted to approach near enough to examine its myllerious contents. The B Our gent intelligence they obtained refpcding it was, that the ■ body of 1 Eatooa, (or rather what is fu[)poied to reprefent him)Bobjed: of was concealed in it. This facred repofitory is compofedB bloody ab of the twifted hbres of the hufk of the cocoa nut; anjBthe right its figure is roundiih, with one end conliderably thickerjliehad jjci noes; J cocoa n each of belonge Heet tha The I to appes loweft c tney hac committi It is certj ty perfor have no than the otlici The pig that h3.d been killed was by this time clean^j ed, .^nd its critrail:, taken out. Thefe happened to havi many of thofe convulfive motions, which frequentl appear in different part>i, when an animal is killed a! id this vv'a^ ccniidercd as a very favourable omen t the intciidtd cxpedllioii. After being expofed for iom time> the entrails 'v^ere carried and laid down before th prieils. While one of them prayed, another clofely in 5p€<^tcdthe entrails, and continued turning them geml with a uick. Having been fufficiently examined, the were rl:r(rvvn into the lire. The facrificed pig, and in liver, litari:, i>zc. were now put upon the fcafFold when the dog had beeii depofited ; and then all the feathe except the oftrich plume, being enclofed in the ark, a end wa:i put to the whole folemnity. Four double canoes remained upon the beach, all tin morning, before the place of faciifice. A fmall pla (orm covered with Iliad been I The wr loccaiioris, Whenever inanfacrifi upon the I Servants, i'im to deal [fcvereign pid to be (foliow ; ai capital par^ or the pra| The moi ^ays apprd whole iflaif other perf( palm kavLS, faPtened in rayfterioi»xcept in d knoti CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE* 249 [knots, vras fixed on the fore part of each cf thefe ca- I noes ; and tiiis alfo is called a morai. Some pbctalas, cocoa nuts, bread fruit, fiili, and other articles, lay upoa I each of thefe naval morals. Th-s nmlves faid, that they belonged to theEatooa, aod that >':hey wereto attend the fleet that was to be fent out againft Eimeo. The unfortunate vid:im, oftered on this ^.ccafion, w^s, I to appearance, a middle-aged man, and wa^ one ot the loweli clafs of the people. But it did not appear that they had fixed upon him on account of his having committed any particular crime, that defervcd death- It is certain, however, that they ufually feled: fiich guil- ty perfons for their facrifices, or clfe vagabonds, who have no vifible way of procuring an honeli livelihocKJ. pur gentlemen having examined the appearance of the body of the unhappy fufferer, now onercd up to the objed of thefe people's vvorfhip, obferved, that it v^ratj bloody about the head and face, and much briiiff d upoji the right temple, vvhich denoted tlie rnannei in wliich he had been killed. And they were iiilormed, tiiat he Iliad been knocked on the head with a ll:one. The wretches who are deftined to fafl'er en thefe loccanofiS, arc never previoufiy apprized of their fate. Whenever any one of the prir:cipal chiefs deems a hu- man facrifice neceffary on any great emergency, he hxe-^ upon the vidlim, and then diipatches fome of his trudy |fervants, who fall upon him iuddenly, and either kcna liim to death, or beat out his brains with a club. The Ifcvereign is next acquainted with it, whofe prelcnce is laid to be ahfolutely requifite at the foleniii riles that folow ; and, indeed, on the late occalion, Oroo bore a [capital part. The folemnity itfelf is term^jd I-'o&re Erte^ lor the prayer of ihe chief; and the vidim is calk J i^aata-Taboo^ or confecrated man. The jnorai, where the late facrifice was offered, is a!- Iways appropriated fur the burial of the kliig of the [whole illand, and likewife of his family, and fome Jother perfons of diilinguiihed rank. It diftbrs little, except in extent, from the common mcrais. Its prin- cipal 35« CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. cipal pn-t is a large oblong pile of ftones, about thirteen feet in height, and contracted towards the top, with a quadrangular area on each 'ide, loofely paved with peb- bles, under which the bones of the chiefss are depontecl. Not far from the end neareft the fea, is the place of fa- criiice, where is a very large whatta or IcafFold, on which the offerings of fi*uits, arid other vegetables, are placed ; but the animals are laid on a fmaller one, and the human facrifices are interred under the pavement. There are feveral reliques fcattered about the place; fuch as fmali ftones raifed in various parts of the pave-, menr, feme with' bils of cloth faftened round them, others entirely covered with it ; and, upon the fide pf] the large pile, fronting the area, are a great number ol pieces of carved wood, in which their gods are fup-i pofed to refide occafionally. There is a heap of ftones, at one end of the large fcaffold, with a fort of platform on one fide. On this they depofit all the (kulls of the human facrifices, which they take up after they have re-| mained under ground for fome months. Juft abov( them, many or the caived pieces of wood are placed and here the maro, and the other bundle, which wai fuppofed to contain the god Ooro, were laid, during th( celebration of the late folemn rites. It is probable, that this barbarous cuftom of offerin[ human vidtims, prevails iti all, or moft of the iflands o| the Pacific Ocean, however Jiftant from each othei fome of them may be. And though we ihould fupi pofe, that P M more than one perfon is facriliced at onJ time, ei♦^^ -r at Otaheite, or other iliand^, yet thele ocj cafions, in all probability, occur fo frequently, as t( make a terrible liavock of the human Ipecies ; for Capj a thit It tain Cook reckoned no lefs than forty-nine fkulis, oH^j^jg ^ fornier vicStims, lying before the morai, at Attahooroop and as none of thofe fkulls appeared to have fufFereij any confiJerable change, or decay, from the weatheij it may be inferred, that but a (hort time Had elapfej fince theie vi^ims had been o^crcd. -^TWs horrij .. . .^. pradid iK lices J Jtions. jfccd Were th mm\ ; Vol. :i. CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 251 pradice, thougli no confideration whatever can make it ceafe ro be deteftable» might, perhaps, be thought lefs (letrimental, in {or.v:: rerpe<^ts, if it contributed to im- prefs any awe for the deity, or vencrauon for religion, upon the minds of the fpeftators. But this was lb far from being the cafe on the late occaiion, that though a vaft multitude of people had alfcmbled at the mora:, they lliewed very little reverence for what was tranfaft- ing. And Omai happening to arrive, after the cere- monies had begun, many of the iHanders thronged round him, and were engaged, for the remaining part ot the time, in making him recount To mc of his adven- tures ; to which they liltened with great eagernefs of at- tention, regardlefs of the folemn offices which their priefls were then performing. Indeed, the priefts them- ielves, except tlie one who fuftained the principal part, either froiii their being familiarized to fuch ohjedls, or from their repoiing no great degree of confidence ia the efficacy of their religious inftirutions, maintained very little of that folemnity which is necefiary to give to ads of devotion their proper efFedl. Their habit was but an ordinary one ; they converfed together with great familiarity ; and the only attempt they made to prefcrve decorum, was by exerting their authority, to prevent the populace from encroaching on the very fpot [Where the rites were performed, and to fuifor our gen- [t!e:nen, as ftrangers, to come forward. They were, [however, very candid in the anfwers which they gave toaiiy interrogatories that were put to them, with re- gard to this inhriian inftitution. Ami, particularly, oa being aiked, what f^as the delign of it, they replied, that it was an ancient cuflom, and was highly agree- able to th; ii god, who came and fed upon the facri- iices; in ^oniequence of which, he granted their peti- tions. It was th en objeded, that he certainly did not feed on thefe, as he was neither obftrved to do it, ncr were the bodies of the facriticed animals foon con- jfiiiiieii ; and th\t as to the corpf'e of a human vidlim, [they prtveated h:s feeding on that, by interring it. Ia Vol. II. N'o. 32. I i at^fwer ' ! ■MP 252 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. anfwer to thefc objcdions, they -gave it as their opi- nion, that he came in the night, irivifibly, and fed only on the foul, or immaterial part, which (thefe people fay) remains about the place of facrifice, till the carcafe of the vidim is totally wafted by putrefadlion. Human facritices are not the only barbarous cuftom that ftill prevails amongft the inhaoitants of Otaheite, though, m many other refpeifts, they have emerged from the brutal manners of favage life. Befides cuttmg out the jaw bones of their enemies flain in battle, which they carry about with them as trophies, they, in fome meafure, offer up their bodies to the Eat 00a. Soon af- ter an engagement, in which they have come off vidto- rious, they colled: all the dead, and bring them to the morai, where, with great form and ceremony, they dig a large hole, and bury them all in it, as fo many of- ferings to their divinities. They treat, in a different manner, their own chiefs that fall in battle. Their late king, Tootaha, Tubourai- tamaide, and another chief, who w^ere all flain in an en- gagement with thofe of Tiaraboo, were brought to the morai at Attahooroo. There the priefts cut out their bowels before the great altar ; and their dead bodies were afterwards interred in three diilerent places, near the great pile of floncs above-mentioned ; and the com- mon men, who loft their lives in the batde, were all buried in one hole, at the foot of the fame pile. This was performed the day after the battle, with much, pomp and formality, arnidft a numerous concourfe of people, as a thanklgiving offering to the deity, for the viiftory they had obtained the preceding day. Thej vanquiflied, in the mean time, had taken refuge in thel mountains, where they remained upwards of a week, till the fury of the vidors began to abate. A treaty was then fet on foot, by which it was agreed, that Otoo fhould be proclaimed king of the whole ifland ; andthej folemnity of invefting him with the maro, or badge of royalty, w^as performed at the fame morai, with great magnificence. Ri-mbarl II the laft o'clock, yay, paid 'little ifland Some con Otoo and once more, Eimeo. B opinion of Before tf oncerning !ent; and a et^ations F;and w ^Deir own c :?lebration CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 253 Re'embark for Matavat — Co}ifermce luitb Towha refped^ ing the human Sacrifice — Defer ipt ion of the Heevas — Dinner given by Omai — Exhibition of Fire^works — Re* tnarkable Method of making a Prefent of Cloth — Man- ner of preferving^ for many Months^ the dead Body of a Chief — Another human Sacrifice offered — Riding en Horfebacky Matter of great Ajlonifhment to the Natives — Otoos great Attention to prevent Thefts^ ^c, — Ani-^ ma Is given to him by Captain Cook — Audie77ce given to Etaryy iffc, — Manner of fighting twG War Canoes — Na- val Power, ^c. X ty was! Otool and the] ladge of :h great AT the clofc of the very extraordinary fcene, exhi- bited at the moral, and particularly defcribed in [the laft chapter, our party embarked about twelve : o'clock, in order to return to Matavai ; and, in iheir way, paid a vifit to Towha, who had continued in the llittle ifland, where they met him the preceding day. [Some converfation on public affairs pafTed between lOtoo and him ; and the latter entreated Captain Cook, [once more, to join them as an ally, in their war againfl: JEimeo. By his poiitive refufal he entirely loft the good |opinion of this chief. Before they feparated, he interrogated our gentlemen concerning the folemnity, at which they had been pre- fent ; and afked, particularly, if it anfwered their ex- pedations ; what opinion they entertained of its effica- cy ; and whether fuch a£ts of worfliip were frequent in [neir own country ? They had been filent during the pkbration of the laorrid ceremony ; but, as foon as it was J i ^ com- 2S4 CAPTAIN COOK'6 THIRD VOYAGE. • completed, freely exprefled their fentiments upon the liibjccSt, to Otoo, and his attendants ; confequently Captain Cook did not conceal liis deteftation of it, in this converfation with Towha. Exclufive of the barbarity of the bloody cul^om, he urged the unreafbnablenefs of it, alledging that iuch a facrihce, inftead of making the Eatooa propitious to their nation, would excite his ven- geance ; and that, from this very circumftance, he con- cluded, that their iiitended expedition againll Maheine would be unfuccelsful. This was proceeding to grent lengths upon conjedlure; but there was little danger of being millaken ; for, re- fpe«5ting this war, there were three parties in this ifland, one violeilt for it, another perfectly indifferent about it; and the third avowed fupportcrs of Maheine, and his caufe. Under thefe circunillant^es, it was not probable that fuch a plan of military operations would be fettled, as could iniure fucccfs. Oniai a(£ted as interpreter, in conveying the Captain's fentiments to Towha, on the fubjcift of the late horrid facrifice ; and he lupported his arguments with fuch fpirit, that the chief appeared to be extremely angry ; efpecially, on being informed, that ifj he had taken away the life of a man in England, as hqi had done here, his rank would not have protected himj from an ignominious death. Upon this he exclaimed, maeno! maeno! (vile ! vile !) and would not heara fyllablt more about if. Many of the natives were prelent al this debate ; particularly the attendants and fervants o| Towha ; and when Omai mentioned the punifhmeni that would in iinglaiul be infliiSed upon the greatel man, if he dared to kill the meanell fervant, they liftenj cd very attentively ; and perhaps, on this fubjedl, the] thought differently from their mailer. Leaving Towha, mr gentlemen proceeded to Opam where Otoo folicited thefn to pafs the night. Thej landed in the evening ; and, on their way to his habitJ tion, had an opportunity of oblVrvlng how thefe peopBt'eid] amufe theinfelves, in their private jieevns. They iajf'jcfi about a hundred cf them futin^ iu a houfe \ in the raicjBAfju^ P' el. pon the squenUy it, in tins barbarity )lenefs of aking the : his ven- [?, he con- i Maheine CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 2:5 of whom were two women, and an old man helnnd each of them, beating gently upon a ilnim ; and the women, at intervals, linging with great foftneis and de- licacy. The afl'ffmbly were very attentive, and fcemed, as it w^ere, abforbed in the plcafure the muhc gave them ; tew of them talcing any notice of the ftrangers, and the performers never once ccafing. When tlie party arrived at Oroo's houfe, it was almoll dark. Here they were entertained with one of their public heevas, or plays, m which his three fillers reprefeuted the principal charac- ters. This they call a heeva raa, and no perfon is fiilTer- td to enter the houfe or area where it is exhibited. Th.is is always the cafe, when the royal fillers are the performers. Their drefs, on this occafion, was truly- elegant and pi<^urefque, and they acqui tied themfclves in a very diftinguilhed manner ; though fome comic interludes, wherein four men were the performers, kerned to afford greater rnvertainment to the audiervce, which was numerous. The Captain and bus companions proceeded, the next morning, to Matava:, leaving Otoo at Oparre; but his mother, fillers, and many other women, attended the Captain on board, and Otoo fol- lowed a (liort time after. " (fted himi While Otoo and Captain Cook had been abfent from "^^^^ ciaime J^^^ ^hips, they havi been I'paringly fupplied with fruit, e e _ .. ..m^j^j \y^^\ ^q^ many vifitors. After their return, we had abundance of company and provifions. On the 4th, a party of us, among whom was Otoo, dined afhore with Oiini, who pro\'i(led excellent fare, confining of filh, (t\\ls, poik, and puddings. Dinner being over. Captain Cick accompiuied Otoo back to his dwelling, where he Iniind ail hisfervants bufy, in getting aquantity of pro- viilons ready for him. Amongft other articles, there Idcd to Ogfi^' ni lv.as a larg;; hog, which they killed in his prefence. :av^ ^i:^^^^»|,^^^ ^,^^ ^IIq ;^. large pudding; the whole procefs in '^S^.'t^^ljitBinaking which the Captain favv. It was compofed of ^\ i'e oeopB''^^^ fruif, plantains, taro, and palm or pandanus nuts, ^ ^ Thev lafr^^ raipeJ, fcraped,or beat up line, and baked by itfelf. ^^' the n\^«^^i^^"^^^y ^^ '^^^ j'^^^^ ^^ cocoa nut kernels, was put V*'- le ; la; into 2S(J CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE. into a kind of wooden tray. The other articles, hot from the oven, were put into this veflel ; together with fome hot ftones, in order to make the contents fimmcr. Three or four perfons were employed in ftirring up the feveral inp;rcdient8, till they were perfe^ly incorporated, and the iuice of the cocoa nut was turned to oil; and the whole mafs, at laft, was nearly of the confiftency of a hafty-pudding. The hog being baked, and the pud- ding being made, they, together with two living hogs, fome bread fruit, and cocoa nuts, were fent on board the Captain's (hip in a canoe, followed by him and all the royal family. A young ram of the Cape breed, that had been lambed, and carefully brought up on board Captain Cook's (hip, was killed by a dog the following day. This was the more to be regretted, as it was the only one of that breed] that we had ; and only one of the Englilh breed wasj now remaining. On the 7th in the evening, we exhibited fome fire^l works before a vaft concourfe of people, fome of whom were highly entertained, but the greater number were much terrified with the exhibition ; infomuch, that theyl could hardly be prevailed on to keep together, to fee the! whole of the entertainment. What concluded the| bufinefs, was a table rocket. It flew off the table, ant difperfed the whole crowd in an inftant ; even the mof jrefolute amongft them now fled with precipitation. A party of us dined, the next day, with Oedidee, or fi(h and pork. The hog, which weighed about thirt) pounds, was alive, drefled, and upon the table, withir the hour. Soon after wc had dined, Otoo appeared, and enquired of Captain Cook, if his belly was full ? wk anfwered in the affirmative. *' Then come along witl] me," faid Otoo. The Captain accordingly j^ttended hit to his father's, where he law feveral people employed ii| drefling two girls, with fine cloth, after a very fingula faOiio.i. I'here were feveral pieces of cloth, and thj one end of each piece was held over the heads of thj girls, Will] the remainder was wrapped roynd theij (}odiei le mot idee, or It thirty withir d, and ng witll dedhir [loyed fingula land thl ofthi id tWi |;)odiej IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I 11.25 |50 "^™ !■■■ ■^ Uii |22 ^ 1^ |2.0 iiiim 1.4 mil 1.6 Va Photographic Sciences Corporation 7'> Wi?l MAIN STRUT Wlki^STIR.N.Y. MSM (716) I72-4S03 r\ V r tween the river and the fea. Some of his own people continually kept watch in all thefe places ; and, as his father ufually refided on Matavai Point, we were, in a manner, furroundcd by them. They not only defend- ed us in the night from thieves, but they had an oppor- Vol.II.— N?33. ^ Kk lunity •s i6o CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOT AGE. tunity of dbferving every thing that pafled in the day ; and were ready to receive contributions from fuch girls, as were privately connected with our people, which was ufually done eveiy morning ; fo that the meafures he had taken to fecure our fafety, anfwered the more elTential purpofe of enlarging his own profits. Otoo acquainted Captain Cook, that nis prefence was required at Oparre, where an audience was to be giveh to the great perfona^e from Bolabola, and begged he would accompany hun thither. The Captain readily confented, expe^ing to meet with fomethmg deferving his notice. Accordingly, they fet out on the i6th, at- tended by Mr Aaderfon. Nothing, however, occurred, that was interefting or curious. Etary and his follow- ers presented fome coarfe cloth and hogs to Otoo, with fome ceremony, aild a fet fpeech. After this, a conful- tation was held between them and fome other chiefs, about their expedition to Eimeo. Etary, at firft, difap- proved of it ; biit his objeAions were at length over- ruled. It appeared, indeed, the next day, that it was too late to deliberate upon this buiinefs ; for, in the evening, a meflenger arrived with intelligence, that there had been fome fkirmi&es, but that the lofs or ad- vantage, on either fide, was inconfiderable. Captain Cook, Mr Anderfon, and Omai,in the morn- ing of the 1 8th, went again to Oparre, accompanied hy Otoo ; taking with them the flieep which the Captain intended to leave upon the ifland. They confifted ofB^^ai,leav ah Englifh ram and ewe, and three Cape ewes; ailB^^were which he made a prefent of to Otoo. All the threcB'P& Jnfor cows had taken the bull ; he therefore thought it advife-B^^u^arly able to divide them, and carry fome to Uiietea. WithB^P^Te, v this view, he ordered them to be brought before hira,WOya^ femi and propofed to Etary, that if he wouki leave his bullB^^ now h with Otoo, he (hould have this and one of the cow8.B ^ur wati To thispropofal, Etary, atfi/ft, ftarted fome ob}edion8B''<^er, the but, at laft, agreed to it ; however, as the cattle were put ting into the boat, one of Etary 's followers^ppofed thr making any exchange whatever. Th 1 agre P'eaj final] he fl from ones J fend I Thi and hi far dii waitiiii fheir n the ufii /i)eakcr principi the nan] the di/pi deputies war witi fice on th ^^ perib ftrength < ed in his the fpirit from To^ Having N he mil tins neij CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 261 jmorn- nied by Captain [ifted of cs; all e, three advife-l With )re him,] hisbul* C0W8.| sdionsi creput- >fedthr The Captain, upon thio, fiafpe^ting that Etary had ' agreed to the arrangement, for the prefent, only to pTeafe him, dropped the idea of an exchange; and finally determined to leave them all with Otoo ; whom he ftriftly enjoined not to fufFcr them to be removed from Oparre, till he fliould have got a ftock of young ones ; which he might then difpoic of to his friends, or fend to the neighbouring iflands. This matter being fetUed» our gentlemen left Etary and his party, and attended Otoo to another place, not far didant, where they found the fervants of a chief, waiting with a hog, a pig, and a dog, as a prefent from their mafter to the king* Thelc were delivered with the ufual ceremonies, and an harangue, in which the fpeaker enquired after the health of Otoo, and of all his principal people. This compliment was re-echoed in the name of Otoo, by one of his minifters ; and then the difpute with, Eimeo was formally difcuITed. Tho deputies of this chief were advocates for profecuting the war with vigour, advifmg Otoo to offer a human lacri-! lice on the occafion. A chief, who conflantly attended^ the perlbn of Otoo oppofed it, fcemingly with great ftrength of argument. The Captain was now confirm- ed in his opinion, that Otoo never entered heartily into the fpirit of this war. He received repeajted meOTage^ from Towha, urging him to haft en to his afllftance. Having dined with Otoo, our party returned to Ma- tavai, leaving him at Oparre. This aay, and the i9]tb„ we were very fr>aiingly (upplied with fruit. Otoo be- ing informea of thi», he andhia brother, who had par- Iticularly attached himfelf to Captain Clerke, came from jOparre, with a large fupply for both fhips. AH the lioyal family came the aext day with prefents, fo that Iwe now had more provifipns than w^ could confuoie^ Our water being all on board, and every thing put in rder, the Captain begai^ to think of quitting the lilapd^ kk he mi^ht have a fufficient time tor viiiting others this neighbourhood* We therefore removed our K k « obfei:- 262 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. obfervatorics and inftrumcnts from the fhorc, and bent the ikils. Early the next morning, Otoo came on board to in- form Captain Cook, that the war canoes of Matavai, and of three other diftrids, were going to join thofe be- longing to Oparre, and that part of the ifland ; and that there would be a general review there. The Tquadron of Matavai v/as foon after in motion ; and after para- ding for fome time about the bay, affembled afhore, near the middle of it. Captain Cook now went in his boat to take a furvey of them. VVhat they call their war canoes, which are thofe with ilages, on which-they fight, amount to about fixty in number ; there are nearly as nvany more of a fmailcr fize. The Captain was ready to have attended them to Oparre ; but the chiefs foon after formed a reroliition, that they would not move till the next day. This ap- peared to be a fortunate delay, as it afforded him forne opportunity of getting fome infight into their manner oi fighting. He therefore defired Otoo to give orders, that fome of them fhould go through the neceiTury rna- ijoeuvres. Accordingly, two of them were ordered cut into the bay ; in one of which Otoo, Captain Cook, and Mr King, embarked, and Omai went on board the other. As foon as they got fufficient fea-room, they faced, advanced, and retreated by turns, as quick as their rowers could paddle. In the mean time the war- riors on the ftages nourifhed their weapons, and played a variety of anticks, which could anfwer no other pur pofe than thatof roufmg their paffions, to prepare thenv ibr the onfet. Otoo (lood by the fide of one itage, giv- ing the neceflary orders, when to advance, and when to retreat. Great judgment, and a very quick eye, feemed requifitc in this department, to leize every ad- vantage, and to avoid every difadvantage. At length, after feveral times advancing to, and retreating fn each other, the two canoes clofed, ftage to ftage ; am after a fevere, though fliort confiidl, all th? troops oi Otoo'i except conqiK l)ly ha] referve foiiowi . All 11 in theii never h ibuf»ht I baffle an and nigl the morr every ne the battl( Vane,, rf SfrijJ^Zs ''Tr^'"'"'"^" * Opinion of the En^.^lT" , " '"""""' ' ""'" ifi. that iHand on S;fc fc ^h^ Ke ftouTi, towfc'Po'fd »o accompany l^irn^a '2 ,W il""^J ^nd .hey ■0 take his departure, he f.iKm!« j , "^'ng ready ^intmentof tte daf- a^d th^w^/M^'^'" *e aJ ^« determined upon'; ^hen h Jw"''^"'' '""""^'"g "dOtpo, his fatWr,, nether /n^T '° receive on inftead 2fiS CAPTAIN CdOIC's THIRD VOYAGE. inftead of rendezvoufing at Oparre, were ordered to tlieir refpedlivc diftrid:s. Captain Cook, however, fol- lowed Otoo to Oparre, accompanied by Mr King and Otnai. Soon after their arrival, a meflenger anived from Eimeo, and related iJie conditions of the peace, cr rather truce, it being only for a limited time. The terms bein^ difadvantageous to Otaheitc, Otoo was fc- verely cenfurcd, whofe delay, in fcndin^^ reinforcementf, liad obliged Towha to fubmit to a difgraceful accom itiodation. It was even cm'rently reported, that '^IW ha, refenting the treatment he had received, had de-j clared, that, immediately after Captain Cook's depar tiire, he would join his forces to thofe of Tiaraboo, an( and attack Otoo. This called upon the Captain to de clare, that he was determined to efpoufe the intereft o his friend ; and that whoever prefumed to attack him fhould experience the weight of his difpleafure, whe he returned to their ifland. This declaration, probably, had the defired effed and, if Towha did entertain any fuch hoftile intentio at firft, we heard no more of the report. Whappai, th father of Otoo, highly difapprovcd of the peace, an cenfured Towha for concludinfj: it. This old man wilel ly confidered that Captain Cook's going with them t Eimeo, might have been of fmgular fervice to theiB foljowin caufe, though lie (liould not interfere in the quarreB natives He therefore concluded, that Otoo had aded prudent!* • - ' in waiting for the Captain ; though it prevented h giving that early affiftance to Tov/ha which he ej pedled. While we were debating on this fubje£l at Oparre, meflenger arrived from Towha, deliring the attendani of Otoo the next day, at the moral in Attahooroo, return thanks to the Gods for the peace he had coi eluded. Caption Cook was alked to attend ; but beii much out of order, chofe rather to decline it. Defiroi however, of knowing what ceremony might be exhibBpjjjy '^V- cd on fo memorable an occalion, he fenl Mr K.^^g^jBineetino' Omai to obferve the particulars, and returned to bisfh^^^,.^ *^ attend arte ofh( nun /age pafli thee pain, thefi cabin lUv alJ th< with I ly on crack, after i an hot operati couragi fore he found j phyficia the nexi the ever heing p( brufli, tifed am K at an fits flow on his le On Till 'and Omal I gave a n e£;d:: *^ Oparre. -ig. V(;; CAPTAIN COOlJi THIRD VOYAGE. iCf attended by Otoo's mother, his three fiftcrs, and feveral other women. At firft, the Captain imagined that this numerous train came into his boat, in order to get a paf- fage to Matavai, But they aflurcd him, they intended paflin^ the night on board, for the purpofe of curing the diiorder he complained of-; which was a rheumatic pain, extending from the hip to the foot. He accepted the friendly ofler, had a bed prepared for them upon the cabin floor, and fubmitted himfelf to their directions. He was lirft defined to lie down amongft them ; when all thofe who could get near him, began to fqueeze hhn with both hands all over the body, but more particular- ly on ihv parts complained of, till they made his boaejj crack, and his flePx became almoft a mummy. In fhorr, after fufFcring this fevere difcipline about a quarter of an hour, he was happy to get away from them. The operation, however, gave him immediate relief, and en- couraged him to a repetition of the fame difcipline, be- fore he retired to bed ; and it was fo cfFedlual, that he found himfelf pretty eafy the whole night after. HIa phyficians very obligingly repeated their prefcriptioa the next morning, before they left him, and again in the evening, when they returned ; after which, th€ Cure being perfected, they took their leave of the Captain the foilowmg morning. This is called romes^ among the natives, an operation far exceeding that of the flelh- hrulh, or any external friction. . It is univerfally prac- tifed amongit thefe iflanders, and generally by wpmen. If, at any time, a perfon appears languid and tired, and fits down by any of them, they pradiife the romee up-» on his legs ; and it always has an excellent efFe^i. a7o CAPTAIN COOK»8 THIRD VOYAGE. cheers. The maro was now wrapped up, and orna- mented by the addition of a finall piece ox red feathers. The people now proceeded to a large hut, near the moral, where they feated themfclves in folemn order. An oration was then mad^ by a man of Tiaraboo, which ended in about ten minutes. He was followed by a man of Attahooroo ; Potatou fpoke next, and witl\ much more fluency and grace than any of them. Too- teo, Otoo*s orator, exhibited after him, and then a man from Eimeo. Some other fpeeches were made, but not attended to. Omai faid, that the fubftance of their fpeeches recommended friendfliip, and not fighting j but as many of the fpeakers exprefled theHifelves with great warmth, there were, perhaps, fome recriminations and proteftations of their future good intentions. In the midft of their harangues, a nrian of Attahooroo rpfc up, having a fling faftene^ to his waift, and a large ftone upon his ihoulder. After parading for about fif- teen minutes in the open fpace, and chanting a few Ihort fentences, he threw the (lone down. This flone, together with a plantain tree that lay at Otoo's feet, were, at the conclufion of the fpeeches, carried to the rnorai ; ^cne of the priefts, and Otoo with him, faying fome- thirig upon the occafion. Returning to Oparre, the fea-breeze having fet in, xvc were obliged to land, and had a pleafa^it walk from Tettaha to Oparre. A tree, with two large bundles of dried leaves fqfpended upon it, pointed put the boun- dary of the two diflri£ts. We were accompanied by the man who had performed the ceremony of the (lone ai^d fling. With him Otpo's father held a long con- verfation,, and appeared extremely angry. He was en- raged, as I underftood, at the part which Towha had taken in the Eimeo bufincfs." From what can be judged of this folemnity, as rela- ted by Mr King, it had not been only a thankfgiving, as Omai told us, but rather a confirmation of the treaty. The grave, mentioned by Mr King, appears to be the very Ipot where the celebration of the rites began, when *5 CAPTAIN COOK., THIRD VOTAGE « here ajfo, that they firft f„ 'ft ,^^''?.'*'^ '"«'• It I maro. Omai, who had Ten^hf. *^"' '^'"8' ^«>» the Nas ""de king,, defcribed the wh?Tfy ''^'^ ^too ^^e were herePWuch is nelrirTh"^ Solemnity, when dcnbed by Mr Kin^; tQ *\'^"'« ^^ that now ferent occafion. l\e pIanfaiA?r/'*-P'', "P°" » very fcng introduced in all tfe 'eliS^^ '" "''^ays the firft Kil as m all their public L7^'.°"* ceremonies, as probably, on many o^'^.'^P/^'^^J'^l'^tes ; and It Eimeo, he feni one or more 3 ^'^ ^ o^^-''^ was tvery day. Every mctTcLfr ^t ^fT^^S^" to Otoo loung plantain tree in hkT^ik^ fl'iJT''. ""^ed a h of Otoo, before he meSj^u?'' ''^ '"'^ « the H h.mrelf before him,™rd Xli'lf ^"'''^'^ > then ts mefl-agc. When two men »ri • r ''f P'''«'c»iars of [at blows are expeftS^tSe Tf '^''^ !{.'«'• «'"P"°e fntam tree before the o^er thV hor"K\'^°"''* % * N proceed in the argument ^^ c ^^"'"^^ coo). h hogs with them than we winr.f '^' ^".'^ ''•'""ght ht^o^^prefcrveany. ^e^^^h^ilS^Z ^ F'an?bteTlS1o>r'''<^ "«^ ^^7, to Poultry, which he had' cS^/T'''°t.^"'« «^«'^ UverythingwasinapromS'xf '° his friendV Hy attended to. Two ofThl"? T^' ""'' ^^^iped Nacb, were fitting 7 but he fef? ''"""^ '^ ^^ W neuher of them Cm to iff u ^""^ '"*<:y fc&refhe^? '^^ -"^"^ "-?a hshem§^ftcrarn,a.^^o^a^ '*""^^-^^"-«-^« concerning Otoo wli, few, CAPTAIN COOro THIRD VOTAGE. lew Ir ^^e people of ^hj^^- "ff aS iCf^foJ h'm, he ^>"' 8°'^ ui^ ' Rut fays Otoo,Toote Trefufed to let .l"«V^^^^^,'; {,,nds, affuring him. f *1 trglafs -, >^h". J'}."VE^ ^' o': and thinkmg. that a H vrt defirous of obliging 0^°° '/"produced four to g«J I^esv.ouldbemog--P*^^^^^^^ Wmm exchange. *-?;S°.\vell (fays Captain UerKe) I Xred me five for «.^^ ^^f ^ Xkr byj^^^H .irit be the cale, yo" >";{" ,, , . r,,. axes. H-f ™™l £ for me; ^'"d you fl«U h^J5 J^^ ^^^^ Captain Oj a veiy fine double -^^''"5 ^ : , ^ ^jade up a Ui«j So^Itunebcfor^ he Upt. n ^^ .^^fidered M TnMifii colours tot iiiin , j^j^j thereM Srval«.ble to be ufed a tte ti ^^^^^^ j^ . patched up a P^'- /Sh'ht Fpred on different J ier of ten or a dozen, J n ^ cxpeaed, drew 1 of his canoe. 1 b'S. »^ ™ ^ . ^o look at her. Uffl fwr a ercat nurooer of peoP.'^^" . j p ^xb, Spa Kame^s were a »^rrFtrop»curs he U :h CAPTAIN COOK'S ^HIRD VOYAGE. «73 t^ es, :en red 2iny tarn :nd- i,Tie oolcl t •, b\i' it will erke oi it, wai atafe" • to giv cocoa nut oil, which are better, and more plentiful at Otaheite, than at any of the Society Iflands ; inlbmuch., that they are conlidered as articles of trade. Omai would not have behai'ed fo inconliftently, as he did ia many inftances, had it nor been for his filler and brother- in-law, who, toget;her with a few fcle -nt athore m h,s <=Twas flriaiy -iomed ^ JPfi requeft, in his naniej '^>« ^"'f idfeathers, and the birds Wm, b} the next ^'P' J^^'Ve- . half a dozen mufketrJ «hilh produce them ; alfo axe.^ ^^ ^ t hotfes. powder and Oiot ; »"''' Ks Tprefent, it is CuftomariJ ^ Wlienthefe people make us ay gxpea in remrn J for them to let us ^ow what th^Y .^ P„ j, ^^ *^dwefind VT.'Searfrtousthanwhatwege means our P^^^"" .^noSes preffed by occahom by barter. But, ^'J^^J^'^^^rf,: to our friends for J f/arcity, ''« =°?'^,''Xn we could not get u by H fupply a» a 5'^^'^TT'nn the whole, therefore, this H • X method. , UP°n f^=3^eous to us as to the nat.yej of traffic was full »« ^^^/^ for each fepa^=!« H Captain Cook m 6«^«/f j f^is intercourfe w.th Otoj as he received >t, except " ^^ ^^.^^unt wal His piefents were fo n^^^.™" ' Whatever he aft SjtWen him -"/£S PhTcaptain never demJ "Sptain Cook would not Jav^^^^^^^ J'^^ foon as he did tf he ^^^^ Juv^p^^ ^ y I to fix himlelf there. I ".f^V^-.-u proviiions elfewH of our being better ^PPj'^weve^ ^, ,he time o oj than we continued to be here, e ^^^^ ^ . leaving it. Befides ^"^^ j^^^Jabitants, as could taj CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 27; extraordinary, had never been once interrupted or ftrP- pended by any accident, or mifunderftanding ; nor had there been a theft committed, worthy of notice. It is probable, however, that their regularity of condu<^ re- iulted from their fear of interrupting a tafHc, which might procure them a greater (hare of our commodities, than they could obtain by phmder or pilfering. Tiiis point, indeed, was, in Tome degree, fettled at the firft in- terview with their chiefs, after our arrival. For Captain Cook declared then to the natives, in the moft decifive terms, that he would not fuffer them to rob us, as they had formerly done. Omai was Angularly ufeful in this bulinefs, being inftruded by the Captain to point out to them the happy confequences of their honed conduct, and the fatal mifchiefs that muft attend a deviation from it. But the chiefs have it not always in their power to prevent thefts ; they are often robbed themfelves ; and complain of it as the worft of evils. The moft valuable things that Otoo received from Captain Cook, were left in the Captain's poflcfllon till the day before we failed ; I Otoo declaring, at the fame time, that they were no where I fo fafc. From the acquifition of new riches, the induce- ments to pilfering muft certainly have increafed; and the chiefs are fenfible of this, from their being fo extreme- ly defirous of having chefts. The few that the Spaniards left amongft them are highly prized-; and they were continually afking us for fome. Captain Cook had one Imade for Otoo, the dimenfions of which were eight feel in length, five in breadth, and about three in depth. [Locks and bolts are not conftdered as a fufticient fecurity ; [but it muft be large enough for two people to fleep up- |on, and confequently guard it in the night. It may appear extraordinary, chat we could never get ^ny diftin£k account of the time when the Spaniards ar- [ived, the time they ftayed, and when they departed. The more we inade inquiry into this matter, the mpre re were convinced of the mcapability of moft of thefe eople to remember, calculate^ ornoce the time, when paft Vol.11. N^ 33. Mm !! !t 2)5 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAOfi. paft events happened ; efpecially if for a longer period than eighteen or twenty months. It however appeareti, by the infcrip^ion upoD thecrof8,and hy the informariion of" the moft intelligent of the natives, that two (hips eame toOheitepeha in 1774, not long after Captain Cook left Matavai, which was in May tl?e fame year. The live (lock they \zii here, cor.fifted of one bull, fome goats, hogs, and dogs, and the male of another animal ; which we were afterwards informed was a ram, and vj^as, at thig time, at Bciabola. The hogs are large ; have already much improved the breed originally found by us upon the ifland ; and, on our late arrival, were very nujji^rous, Ooats are alio in J>lenty, there being hardfy a chief without fome. Th« nogs that the Spaniards put a(hore are of two or three forts: if they had all been hanged, Indeaid of bttng left upon the ifland, it would have been better for the na- tives. Captain Cook's young ram fdl a vicftim to onel of thefe animals. Four Spaniards remained on fhorc when thefe (hips left the iflajid ; two of ^hom- Wercl prieilsj one a fervanr, and the other was much eftrefledl among the natives, who diftihg'uifti him by the naincl of Matecma. He feems to have fo far fludicd their lan- guage, as to have been able to ipeak it tolerably ; and u have been indefatigable in impreiling the minds of th^ iflanders with exalted ideas of the greatnefs of th^ Spanifli nation, and inducing them to think meaol) of that of the Englilli. He even aflured theiji, thatwj no longer cxifted as an independent nation ; that Pretanj was but a fmall ifland, which they had entirely deftroyj ed ; and as to Captain Cook, that they h^d met with hir at fea, and, with thegreatefl eafe that could be imagined had fent his (hip, and every creature in hqr, to the boil torn ; fo that his viiiting Otaheite was, at this time, verj unexpeded. Many other ii^probable falfehoods wei{ propagated by this Spjiiiiard, and believed by the inhat tants; but Captain Cobb's returning tp Otaheite w^ confidered as a complete confutation of all that Mateec had advanced. Wii CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 277 With what defign the priefts remained, cannot eafily be coneeived. It it wsl^ their intention to convert the natives to the Catholic faith, they certainly have not fuccecded. It dees not appear, indeed, that they ever attempted it ; for the natives fay, they never converfed with them, either on this, or any other fubjedt. The priefts refidcd the whole time in the houfe at Oheitepe- ha ; but Mateema roved about continually, vifitmg many parts of the ifland. After he and his companions had (laid ten montlis, twro (hips arriving atOheirepeha, took them aboard, and failed again in five days. What- ever defien the Spaniards might have had upon thi« ifland, this hafty departure (hews they have now laid it afide. Thev endjeavoured to make the natives believe, that they ftill intended to return ; and that tliey would bring with them houfes, all kinds of animals, and men and women who were to iettle in the iiJand. Otoo, when he mentioned this to Capt. Cook, added, that if the Spaniards Ihould return, they fhould not come to Ma- tavai Fott, which, he (aid, was ours. The icJea plcafed him ; but he did not cbnnder that the completion of it would deprive him of his kingdom, and his people of their liberties. Though this Ihews how eafily a fetde- ment might be made at Otaheite, it is hoped that fuch a circumftance will never happen. Our occari6rial vifits may have been of fervice to its inhabitants, but (confi- dering how moft European eftabliftiments are conduc- ed among Indian nations) a permanent eftablifhment amongft them would, ptobably, give them juft caufe to lament that our (hips had ever difcovcred it. Indeed, a meafure of this kind can hardly ever be ferioufly thought of; as it can neither anfwer the purpofes oi public ambition, nor of private avarice. It has been already obferved that Captain Cook re- ceived a vifit from one of the two natives of this ifjand, who had been taken to Lima by the Spaniards. It is fomewhat remarkable that he never law him after- wards, efpecially as the Captain received him v^rith un-. common civility. The Captain, however, fuppofed M ni 3 that 278 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. that Omai had kept him at a diflance from him, from motives of jealouiy, he being a traveller that, in fome degree, might vie with himlelf. Our touching at Te- nerifFe was a lucky circumftance for Omai ; who prided himfelf in having vifited a place belonging to Spain, as well as this man. Captain Gierke, who nad ieen the other man, fpoke of him as a low fellow, a little out of his fenfes : and his countrymen entertained the fame opinion of him. In (hort, thefe two adventurers fecmed to be held in little or no efteem. They had not been fo fortunate, indeed, as to return home with fuch valuable property as had been beftowed upon Omai ; whofe ad- vantages from going to England were fo great, that if he (hould fink into the fame Hate of inlignificance, he has only himfelf to blame for it. Anchor CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 27^ Inchor at Taloo in Ehneo-^Thv Harbours of Taho and Parowroah defcribed — Viftt frQtn Mabeiney the Chief of EifficOf who approaches with Caution — Defcription of tfji Perfon of Maheine-^P reparations made for failing^^-^ detained by having a Goat Jiolen'-^That recovered^ and another fiolen^-'Menaces ufed to occajton it to be return- ed-^Expedilion crofs the IJlandy "xith a Party ^ in fearch tf the Goat — Houfes and Canoes burnt^ and other Hofi ttlities tbreatencd—^The Coal returned — The IJland de- \fcribedy tlfc, . ^ N the 30th of September, at day-break, after leav- ing dtaheite, we ftood for the north end of the nd of Eimeo. Omai, in his canoe, arrived there he- re us, and endeavoured, by taking fome neceflary leafures, to (hew us the fituation. We were not, bow- er, without pilots, having feveral natives of Otaheite board, and, among them, not a few women. Un- illing to rely entirely upon thelc guicks. Captain Cook ipatched two boats to examine the narbour ; when, iQ a fignal being made for fafe anchorage, we ftpod ia ith both (hips, and anchored in ten fathoms water. Taloo is the name of this harbour: it is on the north e of the ifland, and in the diftridl of Qboonohoo, or bnohoo. It runs above two miles between the hills, or S. by E. It is not inferior to any harbour that we ive met with in this ocean, l)oth for fecurity and good*- is of bottom. It has alfo this lingular advantage, that can fail in and out with the reigning trade wind. eral rivers fall into it ; one of which is fo confidera-* Ie,a8 to adinit boats a quairter of a mile up, where the \vater aSo CAPTAIN COOK'a THIRD VOYAGE. water is pcrfcdly frcfh. The hankr., on the fides of thisi flream, are covered with what t he natives call the pooroo tree, on which they fet no vnlue, as it only ferves fr^ firing. So that wood and wat.er may be procured her with great facility. The harbour of Parowroah, on the fame fide of tli ifland, is about two miles to the eaftward, and is muc larger within than that of Taloo ; but the opening i the reef lies to leeward of the harbour, and is conlider ably narro^vcr. Thefc ftriking defedls muft give th harbour of Taloo a decided preference. There are on. or two more harbours on the fouth fide of the illand but they are not foconfiderable as thofe we have alread mentioned. As foon as we had anchored, great numbers of th inhabitants came aboard our fliips, from mere motivi of curiofity, for they brought nothing with them foi the purpoles of barter : but feveral canoes arrived, thi next morning, from more diftant parts, bringing wit them an abundant fupply of bread fruit, cocoa nuts, ani a few hogs, which were exchanged for beads, nails, an hatchets; red feathers not being fo much demandei here as at Otaheite. On Thnrfday the 2d of Odobcr, in the mornin, Caprain Cook received a vifit from Maheine, the chii of the illand. He approached the fliip with as grei rautioa and deliberation, as if he apprehended mifchi from us, as fri^ids of the Otaheiteans ; thefe peop having no idea that we can be in frjendfliip with an one, without adopring his caufe agairtft his enemiei This chief was accompanied by his wife, who, we wei told, is fifter to Oamo, of Otaheite, whofe death heard of while we remained at this ifland. Captaj Cook made them prefcnts of fuch articles as feeirn moft to ftrike their fancy ; and, after flaying about h an hour, they went on fhore. They returned, k after, with a large hog, meaning it as a return for tl Captain's favour j but he made them an additional pri fent to bo^rd tl Mah< himfelfi is bet we fd; wh: itlands. wore a i confiden whether light, it i appears their hav tives, wl conclude ment inH gentleme hair, wer Towar mounted ^ iiving fo not very ot the b had been was but o were ever their fruit been bur Havin cd the fli 6rh, inten agreeable We ha graze; a pointed to| this eveni fered wit with thefc poiTible, r CAPTAIN COOK'a THIRD VOYAGE. 281 fent to the full value of it ; rifter which thty went on bosnl the Difcovery, to vifit Captain Gierke. Maheine, I'upported witli a few adherents, has made liimfeif, in fome dcj^rec, independent of Otahcite. He is between forty and lifty years of age, and is bald head- rd; which, a? that age, is rather uncommon in there iilands. He feemed alhamcd of fhtwing his head, and wore a kind of turban to conceal it. Whether they confidered this deficiency of hair as diiagraccful, or whether they fuppofed that wc confidered it in that light, it is not eaiy to determine. The latter, however, appears the moft probable, from the circumltancc of their having feen lis (have the head of one of the na- tives, whom we detected ftealing. They naturally concluded, therefore, that thus was the kind of punifh- ment inflidled by us upon all thieves ; and fome of our gendemen, whofe heads were but thinly covered with hair, were violently fufpeded, by them, of being tctos. Towards the evening, Captain Cook and Omai mounted on horfeback, and rode along the Ihore. Omai bving forbad the natives to follow us, our train was not very numerous ; the fear of giving offence, having ;ot the better of their curiofity. The fleet of Tovvha lad been ftationed in this harbour, and though the war was but of fliort duration, the marks of its devalUtiou were every where confpicuous. The trees had loi^ all their fruit, and the houfes in the neighbourhood liad been burnt, or otherwife deftroyed.lF Having made every preparation for failing, we haul- ed the fliip ofFinto the ftream, in the morning of the 6th, intending to put to fea the next day, but a dif- agreeable accident prevented it. We had, in the day time, fent our goats afhore to graze ; and, notwithflanding two men had been ap- pointed to look after them, one of them had been ilolea this evening. This was a confiderable lofs, as it inter- fered with the Captain's views of (locking other iilands with thefe animals: he therefore was determined, if poifible, tg tecover it. Wc received intelligence, the next .^. iSiz CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. next morning, that it had been conyeyed to Mahcini, who was, at that time, at Parowroah harbour. TwI eldeily men offered their fervices to conduct any of on people to him, in order to bring back the goat. At cordingly the (^aptdn difpatched fbme of his people i] a boat, charged with a melTage to that chief, and mlillj «d on both the goat and the thief being immediatelj given up. ] Maheine had^ only the day before, rcquefted thl Commodore to give him two goats; but, as he cculJ not fpare them, without depriving other iflands, whicl had none of thefe animals, and was informed that therl were two already upon this, he refufcd to gratify him] Willing, however, to affift his views, in this refped, h( defired an OtaheXte chief, then prcfent, to beg Otoo, ir his name, to convey two of thcfe animals to Maheine i and, to induce him to comply with this requeft, ient tc, Otoo, by the fame chief, a quantity of red *:ithers] equal in value to the two goats that were requiv^i^.— The Commodore expedled that Maheine, and all the other chiefs of the iiland, would have been prrkd.]) fatisfied with this arrangement ; but he was mittakenj as the event clearly proves. Litde fufpeding that any one would prefui. to fteall a fecond, while the neceffary meafures were raking tol recover the firft, the goats were again put ashore thisl morning ; and a boat, as ufual, was fent for them in the evening. W|[le our people were getting them In- to the boat, one was conveyed away undifcovered. As it was immediately miflcd, we expedled to recover itl without much trouble, as it could not have been carriedl to any confiderable dillance. Several of the natives fct out, different ways, to feek after it; for they all endea- voured to perfuade us, thatitmuft have ftrayed into the woods ; not one of them admitting that it was ftolen. We were, however, convinced to the contrary, when we perceived that not any of the purfuers returned:] iheir intention was onlyjo amufe us, till their prize was I faiely depofued ; and night coming on, prevented all future CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. '-^83 futare fearch. At this inftant, the boat returned with the other goat, and one of the peribns who had ^o- len it. Mpft of the inhabitants, the next morning, were moved off, taking with them ^ corpfe, which lay op- pofite the (hip, on a toopapaoo ; ' and Maheine, we were informed, had retired to the remoteft part of the Idand. It now plainly appeared, that a regular plan bad been projected to (leal what the Commodore had refufed to give; and that, having reftored one, they were determined not to part with the other, which was a female, and with kid: and the Commodore was equally determined to have it back again ; he therefore applied to the two elderly men, who had been inftru- mental in recovering the firft, who informed him that this had been taken to a place on the fouth fide of the iflan^,> called Watea, by Hamoa, who was the chief of , th place ; but that it would be delivered tip if he would ' fend for it. They exprelTed a willingnefs to conduct fome *" ^ his people to the fpot ; but, linding that a boat might go and return in one day, he fent one with two of his oncers, Mr Roberts and Mr Shuttleworth ; one 1 to rcm.'«,ir with the boat, if (he could not get *o the place, I while the other went with the guides, accompanied by I fome of our people. 7"he boat returned late in the evening, when we were informed by the officers, that after proceeding in the boat as far as rocks and fiioals would permit, Mr Shuttleworth landed ; and, attended with two marines, and oneof the guides, proceeded to the houfe of Hamoa, at Watea ; where they were, for fome time, amufed by the people, who pretended they had fent for the goat, and that it would jbon be produ- Iced. It however, never arrived ; and, night approach- ling, Mr Shutdeworth was obliged to return to his boat Iwithout ir. ,Tlie Commodore lamented that he had proceeded (6 fit in this bufinefs, as he could not retreat with credit, id wuhout giving encouragement to other iflanders to |rob 113 with impunity, Confuhing with Omai, and the Vol.li.— N° 33. N n two !i! « li!» i84 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. two old men, what methods to take, they advifed him, . without hefitation, to go into the country with a party of men, and fhoot every perfon he (hould meet with. m. The Commodore did not approve of this bloody counfel ; but, early tlie next morning, fet out with thirty-five of his people, accompanied by Omai, one of the old men, and three or four attendants. He alio ordered Lieute- nant Williamfon round the weftern part of the ifland, with three armed boats, to meet us. This party had no fooner landed, than the few re- maining natives fled before us. The firft perfon we met with on our march, was in a kind of perilous lituation ; for Omai, the inftant he beheld him^ afked Captain Cook if he (hould flioot him ; fo, fully was he perfuaded, that the advice he had given, was immediate- ly to be carried into execution. The Commodore then gave orders, both to him and our guide, to let it be ma^e known, that it was not our intention to injure, much lefs to deftroy, a fingle native. Thefe joyful tidings foon circulated, and prevented the flight of the inha-| bitants. Afcending the ridge of hills, on our road to Watea, w^e were informed that the goat had been carried the fame way, and could hardly nave paflTcd the hills : we| therefore marched up in great filence, expeding to fur- prize the party who were bearing off the prize ; but, when we arrived at the uppermoft plantation, we wen told, that the animal we were in fearch of, had, indeed been kept there the firft night, but had been carried ti Watea the next morning. We made no further en quiry, till we came within fight of Watea, where w were direded to Hamoa's houfe, by fome people wh who a'fo informed us, that the goat was there. Wi therefore fully exped:ed to obtain it on our arrival ; but when we reached the houfe, the people we faw there, denied that they had ever feen it, or knew any thin concerning it. Hamoa himfelf appeared, and expreffe himfelf to the fame efFedl. On our fail coming to Watea, feveral men werefecn, . . , run' CAPTAIN CO0K*8 THIRD VOYAGE. 2S5 Lieute jifland, few rc- d him I '^^'^^^g ^® ^"^ ^^^ *^^ ^^^ woods, with clubs and darts . n^rtvi i^ ^^^^** hands ; and Omai, who ran towards them, had s thrown at him. Hence it appeared, that they ounfel'l ^'^'^^"^^^ ^^ oppofe any attempt that we might be in- five of I ^^^^^ ^^ make, but on feeing the ftrength of our party, d men I ^^^ given up the defign. We were confirmed in this *■ opinion, by obfcrving, that all their houfes were empty. After collecting a few of the natives together, Omai was diredled to expoftulate with them on the abfurdity of their conduct, and tell them that we had received rfon wel ^"^^ient evidence that the goat was in their pofTcffion ; berilousl ^^^ ^^^^» '^ ^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ immediately delivered up, we afkedl ^^"^^ ^^'"'^ ^^^ ^^^^^ houfes and canoes ; but, notwith- was hel^'^'^^*'^^ this expoftulation, they perfifted in their de- mediate-l ^^^^ °^ having any knowledge of it. In confequence of jv "I which, the Commodore fet fire to fix or eight of their 1 e madel^^^^^^» *^^ ^^^^ ^^ three war canoes, which were pre- " muchl^^^^^y confumed. After this we marched off to ipia rtidinssl^^^ boats, which were, at that time, about feven or eight he inha-l"^^^^* ^^^^ ^^ ' ^^^» ^^ ^"^ T02l6, burnt fix other war ■canoes, without any oppofition. On the contrary, , Wotea Ini^^y o^ ^^^ natives aflilled us ; more, perhaps, from ^ * d thel^'^*^' ^^^^ ^^^ other motive. At length Omai, who was ?Us • w3*^ ^^^^ diftance before us, came back with information, ^^ to fur-B^^*^ * multitude of men were affembled to attack us* ?^ . butl^^^ prepared ourfelves to receive them, but, inftead of ^^ e «rer Jenemies, they were petitioners, with plantain trees in ,^. 11 Atieir hands, which they laid down before us, entreating ried t4^^ ^^^^"^^^^^^ ^^ ^P^^'^ ^ canoe that lay upon the fpot, tV cr en J'^^^^^ ^^ readily complied with. ^ ^ I About four o'clock in the afternoon, we arrived at |Wharrarade, where our boats were waiting for us. The liftrid of Wharrarade belongs to Tiarataboonoue ; but is chief, together with the other principal people of k place, had fled to the hills ; though we made no at- ack upon their property, they being in amity with "too. Here we remained about an hour, in order to ft ourfelves, and afterwards fet out for the fliips,whsre c arrived at eight o'clock in th*e evening ; but no rerefecnj ruiii i li li i! ' 1 Nn 2 tiding* iBO CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. tidiDgs of the goat had, at that time, been received ; and, of courfe, the operations of the day had been inef- fedlual. Eearly on Friday morning, the loth of Odober, the Captain dlfpatched one of Omai's men to Maheine, charged with- this peremptory mefl'agc, that if he perfift- ed in his refufal to deliver up the goat, a fingle canoe fhould not be left upon the ifland ; and that hoflllities ihould never ceafe, while the ftolen animal continued in his poflclfion. Tliat the melFenger might perceive that the Commodore was in earneft, he ordered the carpen- ter, in his prefence, to break up three canoes that lay at the head pf the harbour. The planks were, by his di- redion, taken on board, to ferve as materials for build- ing a hoiife for Omai, at the place where he intended to reude. The Commodore, properly attended, went af- terwards to the next harbour, where he deftroyed feven or eight more canoes, and returned on board about fe- ven in the evening. On his arrival, he was informed, that the goat had been returned about half an hour be- fore ; and it appeared, from good intelligence, that it came from the very place, where the inhabitants, the day before, declared they knew nothing about it. But, from the meflage delivered to the chierin the morning, he perceived that the Commodore was iipt to be triflecj with. Thus ended this troublefome and unfortunate bufi- nefs ; equally to be regretted by the natives, and by Captain Coot. He was grieved to refledt, that, after re- fulmg to aflift his friends at Otaheite, in the invafion of this iiland, he {hould fo foon be obliged to engage in hof- tilities againd its inhabitants; which, perhaps, were more injurious to them, than Towha's expedition. Our intercourfe with the natives was renewed the next niorning ; feveral canoes bringing bread fruit and cocoa nuts to the fhips for barter , whence it was natu- ral to conclude, that they were confcious they had merif" cd the treatment they had received j and that, thecaufei cf Captain Cook's dil'pleafure beipg now removed, they appre about rally co torn of tothef( become This re at Otah /tifFmo and the colour. Near th large ft tions ar tJiem as that they would give his friend a piece of land, upon conquer This turn to expreffe Huaheir Cook's , what poi ithearini and giv« make an] accept, tl thereforel larfpot, they fntc fome chii were fent) modore'sf Iground ii Vol. n- CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. ap*. upon which he might build a houfe, and raife provifions for himielf and fervants ; adding, that, if he could not obtain this at Huaheine either by donation or purchafe, the Captain was refolved to carry him to Ulietea, and eftablifh him there. Thefe topics were dictated to Omai by Captain Cook, who obferved, that what he concluded with, about going to Ulietea, feemed to gain the appro- bation of all the chiefs ; and he immediately perceived the reafon. Omai had vainly flattered himielf, that the' Captain would ufe force in reftoring him to his father's lands in Ulietea, and he had talked at random, on this fubjedl, to fome of the aflfembly ; who now expedeJ that the Captain would allift them in invading Ulietea, and driving the Bolabolans out of that ifland. It being proper, therefore, that he fhould undeceive them, he ilgnified, in the moft decifive manner, that he .would neither give them any afli (lance in fuch an eti&^rize, nor would even fufFer it to be put in execution, while he remained in their feas ; and that, if Omai eilablifhed himfelf in Ulietea, he ought to be introduced as a friend, and not forced upon the people of Bolabola as their conqueror. This peremptory declaration immediately gave a new turn to the fentiments of the council ; one of whom expreflTed himfelf to this effedt : that the whole ifland of Huaheine, and whatever it contained, were Captain Cook*s; and that, confequently, he might difpofe of what portion he pleafed to his friend. Omai was pleafed at hearing this ; thinking that he would be very liberal, and give him what was perfcdtly fufficient. But to make an offer of what it would have been improper to I accept, the Captain confulered as offering nothing ; and therefore defired, that they would mark out the particu- lar fpot, and likewife the exad quantity of land, which they intended to allot for the lettlement. Upon this^ fome chiefs, who bad already retired from the aflfembly^ were fent for ; and, after a fhort confultation, the Com- modore's requeft was unanimoufly granted, and the jground immediately fixed upon, adjoining to the houfe Vol.11.— N« 33. O o where wm 291 CAPTAIN COOK'S TmRD VOYAGE. where the prefent meeting was held. It extended along the fhore of the harbour, about two Hundred yards ; its depth to the bottom of the hill was fomewhat more ; and a proportional part of the hill was comprehended in the grant. This affair being fettled, a tent was pitch- ed on Ihore, a poft eftablifhed, and the obfervatories eredted. The carpenters of each (hip were alfo now employed in buildmg a fmall houfe for Omai, in which he might fecure the various European commodities that he had in his pofleffion ; at the (ame time, fome of our people were occupied in making a garden for his ufe, planting vines, (haddocks, melons, pine apples, and the feeds of other vegetable articles ; all which were in a flourifliing ftate before our departure from the ifland. Omai began now to pay a ferious attention to his own affairs, and heartily repented of his ill-judged pro- digaUty^it Otaheite. He found at Huaheine, a brother, a fifter, and a brother-in-law, the filler having been hiarried. But thefe did not plunder him, as his other relations had latejy done. It appeared, however, that though they had too much honelly and good nature to do him any injury, they were of too litde confequence in the ifland to do him any real fervices, having neither authority nor influence to protect his property or his perfon. Thus circumftanced, he ran great rifque of being flripped of every thing he had received from us, as foon as he fhould ceafe to be within the reach of our powerful protedion. He was now on the point of being placed in the very ^ngular fituation, of being the only rich man in the tommunity of which he was to be a member. And as h^ had, by his connexion vyith us, made himfelf matter of an accummulated quantity of a fpecies of treafure which his countrymen could not create by any art or induftry of their own, it was natural to imagine, that while all were defirous of fharing in this enviS wealth, all would be ready to join in attempts to flrip its fole proprietor. As the mofl likely means of preventing this, Captain Cook advifed him to diHribute fome of his moveabb CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 293 moveables among two or three of the principal chiefs ; who, on being thus gratified themfelves, might he in- duced to favour him with their patronage, and fhield him from the injuries of others. He promifed to fol- low this advice ; and we heard, before we failed, that this prudent ftep had been taken. The Captain, how- ever, not confiding entirely in the operations of grati- tude, had recourfe to the more forcible and efiedual motive of intimidation, taking every opportunity of no- tifying to the inhabitants, that it was his intention t« make another vifit to their ifland, after being abfent the ufual time ; and that, if he did not find his triend in the fame (late of fecurity in which he Ihould leave him at prefent, all thofe who fhould then appear to have been his enemies, might expedt to become the objeds of hie refentment. This menacing declaration will, rt^ol^bly, have fome efFeft ; for our fucceflive vifits of rate years have induced thefe illanders to believe, that our ihips are to return at certain periods ; and while they continue to entertain fuch a notion, which the Captain thought it a fair flratagem to confirm, Omai has fome proipeft of being fuffered to thrive upon his new plantation. . While we remained in this harbour, we carried the bread on (hore to clear it of vermin. The number of cock-roaches that infefted the (hip at this time, is almofl incredible. The damage we fultained from them was very confiderable 5 and every attempt to deflroy them proved fruitlefs. If any kind of food was expofed for a few minutes, it was covered with thefe noxious infecSts, who foon pierced it full of holes, fo that it refembled an honey-comb. They proved particularly deftrudive to birds, which had been fluffed lor curiofmes, and were fo fond of ink, that they eat out the writing on the labels, fattened to different articles ; and the only thing that preferved books from their ravages, was the clofenefs of the binding, which prevented thefe devourers from in- finuating themfelves between the leaves. According to Mr Anderfon, they were of two forts, the btatta or tent alts ^ and germanica* O02 The in i II 294 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. The intercourfe of trade and friendly offices, between us and the inhabitants of Huaheine, was undidurbed, by any accident, till the evening of the 2 2d, when one of the natives found means to get into Mr Bayly's ob- fer vatory, and carry off a fextant, unobferved. Captain Cook was no fooner informed of this theft, than he went afhore, and defired Omai to apply to tTie chiefs, to procure reftitution. He accordingly made application to them, but they took no fteps tov^ards recovering the inftrument, being more attentive to a hceva, that was then exhibiting, till the Captain ordered tlie performer^ to defift. Being nbw convinced that he was in earneft, they began to make fome enquiry after the delinquent, who was fitting in the midft of them, with fuch marks of unconcern, that the Captain was in great doubt of his being gdilty, particularly as he denied it. Omai, how- ever, aflbring him that this was the perfon, he was fent on board the fhip and there confined. This raifed an univerfal ferment among the alTembled iflanders, and the whole body fled with precipitation. The prifoner being examined by Omai, was with fome difficulty brought to confefs where he had concealed the fextant, and it was brought back unhurt the next morning. After this,. the natives recovered from their confterna- tion, and began to gather about us as ufual. As the thief appeared to be a (hamelefs villain. Captain Cook punifhed him with greater feverity than he had ever done any former culprit. . Befides having his head and beard fhaved, he commanded that both his ears fliould be cut off, and then difmiffed him. This punifhment, however, did not deter him from committing other offences ; for, early in the morning of the 25th, a general alarm was fpread, occafioned, as was reported, by one of our goats being ftolen by this very man ; and though, upon examination, we found every thing fafe in that quarter, yet it appeared, that he had deftroyed and carried off from Omai's grounds, fe- veral vines and cabbage-plants ; and he publicly threat- e'led to put him to death, and fet fire to his houfe, as ' . foon CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 295 from ling of led, as )y this found Ithathe ids, fe- Ithreat- ife, as, foon foon as we fhould quit this place. To prevent his do- ing any further mifchief, the Captain ordereil him to be feized, and confined again on board the (hip, with a view of carrying him off the iflant| ; and this intentioa feemed f o give general fatisfadioii to all the chiefs. He was a native of Boiabola ; but there were too many of the people here ready to co-operate with him in all his defign'S. W^e had, indeed, always met with more troubiefome perfonsin Huaheine than in any other of the adjacent iflands ; and it was only fear, and the want of proper opportunities, that induced them to behave better now. Anarchy and confuiion feemed to prevail among them. Their Earee rahie, as we have already obferved, was but a child ; and we did «ot find, that there was any individual, or any fet of men, who held the reins of government for him ; fo that, whvne^er any mifunderftanding occurred between us, we never knew, with fufficient precilion, to whom it was neceffa- ry to apply, in order to effed an accommodation, or procure redrefs. Omai's houfe being now almofl finifhcH, many of [his moveables were carried afliore on the 26th ; amongft [Other articles was a box of toys, which greatly pleaied the gazing multitude. But, as to his plates, diihes^ drinlcing mugs, glaffes, pots, kettles, and the whole train of domellic apparatus, fcarce one of his country- men would even look at them. Omai himfelf began to think that they would be of no fervice tc him ; that a [baked hog was more favory eating than a boiled one ; |that a plantain leaf made as good a plate or di(h as pew- Ijerj and that a cocoa nut (hell was as convenient a gob- fit as one of oiar miij^s. He therefore difpofed of moft of thefe articles of Engli(h furniture among the crew ofoiir(hips; and received from them in return, hatchets, pd other iron implements, which had a more intrinlic falue in this part of the world. Amoiig the numerous (refents beftowed upon him in England, fireworks had fot been omitted ; lome of which we exhibited in the pening of the 28thy before a great multitude of people, who 29^ CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. "who beheld them with a mixture of pleafure and appf c- henfion. Thofe which remahied were put in o' iler, and left with Omai, purfuant to their original deftina- tion. On Tliurfday the 30th, early in the morning, tlie Bolabola-man, whom we had in confinement, found means to efcape out of the fhip, carrying with him the fhackle of the bilboo-bolt that had been put about his legy which was taken from him, as foon as he ar- rived on Ihore by one of the chiefs, and given to Omai ; who quickly came on board, to inform tlie Captain that his mortal enemy was again let loofe upon him. We found, upon enquiry, that the fentry placed over the prifoner, and even the whole watch in that part of the ihipji^ere he was confined, having fallen afleep, he feijS^iPhe favourable opportunity, took the key of the ironsi tJUt of the drawer into which he had feen it put, and {ct himfelf at liberty. Tins efcape convinced the Commodore, that his people had been very remifs in their night-duty ; which rendered it neceflary to chaftize thofe who were now in fault, and to eftabli(h fome new regulations that might prevent fimilar negligence in fu- ture. He was pleafed at hearing, afterwards, that the fellow who had efcaped, had gone over to Ulietea. Omai was no fooner fettled in his new habitation, than Captain Cook began to think of departing from THuaheine, and got every thing off from the fhore this evening, except a goat big with kid, and a horfe and mare ; which were left in the pofleflioii of our friend, | who was now to be finally feparated from us. We al- fo gave him a boar and two ibws of the English breed;! and he had got two or tliree fows of his own. The horfe had covered the mare during our continuance atl Otahe/te; fo that the introdudion of a breed of horfesl into thefe ifland«, has probably fucceeded, by this valu- able prefent. With regard to Omai's domcftjc eftablilhment, he had procured at Otaheite, four or five touious, or people oi tji^ lower clafs i the two young New riealandcrs reJ xnainef Imufquet, I file fcori CAPTAIN COOK., THIRD VOYAGE mamed with hirn • a„A kjc t, . ^'^ (.fted often or eleven pwfons If .k /*"">' n°^^ '-on- norainated a family, to whkh nf, ^"^ ^^" J""'^ b« ''*- The houfe wludi our nl i ' ''"^ *^™3>e belonaeJ twenty-four feet by eLS ''^^t^ ^°' '>i"^ was he.ght It was co^poft L\"i''''out ten f,,, ;„» fpoils ofpurmilitaryLe'ations at K •''''''''• "'^^'"^ '^e conftrudion of it, as few iSas „off-M '° ' ''"''' '" '^^ here might be an inducement fro?i,^'■T'^;" "^"'''«ft fo pull K down. It was agreed unon ?^ ''^''^^ "^ i^''". after our departure, he Cl^ k"'«' '^mediately afterthemod^ofhisowncounr ^'^^ => ^Pacious houf^ to be brought over thrS "wJ'h"?? "?,'' °/>vl,ich was , to enclofe it for greater ftc> ri v 1 ^'"''' ^° ^* ™ri«'y the chiefs of the ffland proSt^^" *'?r°'-t, foa,e o^ ance; and if the inten,l«? k •u-'^°°'"''"te theiri^ft. Found which was Sed ^Sonf ttould cove^£ piece, two pair°oTp°ift:rSrr/'"1 °f > fowling nulquet, bayonet, and a cS, r'*** '''• cutlaffes.a bton fl'?re whatever apSJ>^/. After he hid Jtwo Captains, and moftoVthS ° ^'.™' ^^ ^^^ the ^0 or three times, to dfnner • S '1° u'^^'^ ^"^ «^ip-S Ne was plentiful yfupX5»1fi,u"=^ occalions, hil h the ifl.nd could afe ''^L'^' beft provifjon. tommodore caufed th? f^f^.' ■9'^^ *« 'et fail the jpon the outfide of Ws houfeT"^ '"'^"^""^ ^° ^1 cS . Nav(, ] Wf-'ion, Jac. Cook, K ^"' L Di/covery, Car. CkrL Pr f ''vharre harCour. Mnft o?^. "/?' ''"'' ^^"^d o"t board till pur velTels were und.Tf -^'""t ^""''""^d iired. 29 S CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. fired. Then they all lefr us, except Omai, who remain- ed till we were out at iea. We had come to fail by a hawfer faftened to the fhore, which, in cafting the , ihip, parted, being cut by the rocks, and its outer end was left behind : it therefore became neceffary to dif- patch a boat to bring it on board. In this boat, our friend Omai went aftiore, after having taken a very afFedtionate farewel of all the officer?. He fuftained this paning with a manly fortitude, till he came to Cap- tain Cook, when, notwithftanding all his efforts, he wa8 unable to fiipprefs his tears ; and he wept all the time in going artiore, as Mr King, who accompanied him in the boat, afterwards informed the Captain. Though we had now, to our great fatijfadion, brought hin[|_4^e back to the very fpot from whfich he was taken, it ji^robable, that we left him in a fituation lefs defire- able than that which he was in before his connedionj with us : not that, hav'ng tailed the comforts of civilized liJ^, he muft become more wretched from being obliged! vo relinquifli all thoughts of continuing them, but mere-/ ly becaufe the advantages he received from us, havel placed him in a more hazardous lituation, with refpedj to his perfonal fafety. From being greatly carefled ir England, he had loft fight of his primary condition, and did not confider in what manner his acquiiitions, eithei of knowledge or of wealth, would be eftimated by hij countrymen, at his return ; which were the only thin^ whereby he could recommend himfelf to them no\ more than before, and on which he could lay the founj dation either of his future happincfs or greatnefs. HJ appeared to have, in fome meafurc, forgotten their cuf toms in this refpedt, and even to have miftaken theij genius ; otherwife he muft have been convinced of th extreme difficulty there would be in getting himfelf ad mitted as a man of rank, where there is icarce a fingj inftance of a perfon's being raifed from an inferior ffj tion even by the greateft merit. Rank feems to be ti foundation of all power and diftindtion here, and is rr. CAPTAIN COOK'o THIRD VOYAGE. 299 inedionl civilized I r obligedl lUtmere-l us, havcl h refpeftl ireffed iir ition,and ns, eiihd ,ed by hi j Vily thing^ Lcm no^_ the founj lefs. HI their cu| aken the| Iced of tb [umfelfal •ce a fingl nferior M IS to be i| ;, and is 1 pertinacioufly adhered to, that, unlefs a perfon has fome degree of it, he will be coiitemned and hated, if he pre- tends to exercife any authority. This was really the cafe, in a great meafure, with Omai ; though his coun- trymen were rather cautious of expreffing their fenti- ments while we continued among them. If he had made a proper ufe of the prefents he brought with him from Great Britain, this, with the knowledge he had gained by travelling, might have enabled him to form the moft advantageous connedions. But he ex- hibited too many proofs of a weak inattention to this obvious means of promoting his intereft. He had formed any refned l/ "°' "a"* fe am±*iP^^^d, that Omai wK abt^^ "°'» M his endeavours to brin^f^ ''Ti':^''' *at he wi I Nthefe muldpjt''^r! ^o-ne over?oEnS F equal anynaS^n^'".!"* ^nd the Societv%. Wions/ ^"^ "» "^^^ known world, ^h ?,.^' C *;"'«'I7« as voiuE 1' t"<=°»"««d many r^ ^^Ptain Cfeofc t<»fc ewr^° ?^™Pany us to I p p 3 '^'y opportunity of ex- preffing CAPTAIN COOK'. THIRD VOYAGS. preffing his fixed det^a^on » -.ej PP^ tions of that kind. 0'"%« " among them, bemg a- maining the only r^^"-"?! klnrevailed upon to place ftSd left the Captain migl he P fj''!^^ 'ntly remind- Sers in alH"f trMS"o"t^ 1^^ o?Sand^vich that ^i\ him of the declaration oi luc ^^ England. fo Xers of his countrymen werejjo ^^^ Had there been the^malleitp c<>mmodorc bebK again fent ^ Ne^.J^'tomhs of that country would have brought the t^;° V^- very dehrous of home with him. both of ^^^^ooa, Hie eldeft. v.« of continuing with us. J^flk^v^s extremely we«- cndowed with arong ^f^'f^^^\ny inftr«aion. He difpofed,aad capable of re««^^"|^fJoiity of his own appeared to be fenltble ^[J^^i himfelf. though coSntry to Aefe/andV^aancetto end his daysat Hua- perhaps not w"^°f „7i" But he other, named Kokoa. Line in eafe and plenty. But tne ^^^^ 3-^ . e impatient natisres nof ,i • i • C.|. /•' P''^='fS'" riiftrefs r! ^ ' ''^''e involved q 2 ' "*' '""le of i CAPTAIN C00r.-s THIRD VOYAGE- ^,, CAiiA n^rVe -na Mr Gere, the Zanders had feked ^^P'^Xce f^°"^ J^^ f^lPHi; asthey were^valk.npatal.na ^^^ ^^^^^^^^f^ „f ,h^ The Commodore, »""■;. /^kp,v,ed to couvxteraft him ?'Pt >f. flri.Sd fcarcely gone out of ^^ vvh n made no lecro'. lu ■i'— : ^°- pi.^n ot operauou,, v. But the pr nc.pal Pf ^ * e fcn of (^?'^"\^°t £\ to have laid hold ot tM P«^ evening m the trelh 1°. " accullomed to bathe ey^JVf ^ ,g„tfy went alone ^er on which --f'^^^^|i;% tJgo this e^ and always unarmed, txpec b ^^ ^ ,^i tnp, asuluaUtheyhadreoAi^up accompanied h.m Ootain Gierke hkewile, »! 'J^ V^ ^he chiefs family S Captain Cook, =^ft«„XSfelf in their po««| had taken care to f .r^ P>" ckrke and the officers, nj and had cautioned Upt-^nUe^^^^ ^^ ^^ ^^^ ,^j to go £0 any coniwerame ^^^^^ ^^^ Coi Orel, in the courfe of ^^ f ?^\e would not go ^odore.. three or f^r t mes,^^ ^„din. that he co the bathing place -. "" iVretired, with his peopM ^-\^I!!f„!J': r ent'rX^othe co.^^^^^^^ .^f CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 31X that no mifchicf was done on the occafion; no mut- qiiets being fired, except two or three, to flop the ca- noes ; to which firing, perhaps. Captain Gierke and Mr Gore owed their fafety ; * for, at that moment a party of the iflanders, armed with clubs, were marching to- wards them, but difperfed on hearing the report of the raufquets. This confpiracy was firfl difcovered by a girl, who had been brought from Huaheine by one of our officers. Happening to overhear fome of the Uiietcans fay, that they would feize MefTrs Gierke and Gore, fhe immedi- ately ran to acquaint the vvOl of our people that ihe met with. Thofe who had been intruded with the ex- ecution of the defign, threatened to put her to death, as foon as we fliould quit Ulietea, for difappoiming them. Being aware of this, we contrived that the girl's friends lliould come, a day or two afterwards, and take her out 01 the Qiip, to convey her to a place where fhe might remain concealed, till.ihe fliould find an opportunity of returning to Huaheine. On Thurfday the 27th, we took down our obferva- tories, and carried on board whatever we had afhore ; we then unmoored the (hips, and moved a little way down the harbour, where we anchored again. To- wards the afternoon the natives, (baking off their ap- prehenfions, gathered round, and on board, our fhips, as ufual ; and the unpleafmg tranfa£tions of the prece- ding day feemed to be almolt forgotten by both parties. In the fucceeding night the wind blew in hard fqualls, which were accompanied with heavy fliowers of rain. In one of thefe fqualls, the cable by which the Reiblu- tion Vv'as riding at anchor, parted ; but, as we had an- other anchor ready to let go, the fliip was quickly brought up again. No * It Is not improb.iblc thnt tliey were alfo inaebtcd for their fafety to Captain Gierke's walking with a pillol in his hand, which he once fired. AVc mention this clrcumllance on the authority of Captain King. mm^mm 3»2 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. No account of our two fugitives having been receiv- ed from Bolabola, Oreo now ftt out for that iiland, de- iiring Cr^ptain Cook to follow him, the next day with the Slips. This was the Captain's intention ; but the •wind prevented our getting out to fea. The fame wind, however, which detained us in the harbour, brought back Oreo, with the two deferters, from 13olabola. Tht/ had reached Otaha on the night of their defertion ; but being unable, for the want of wind, to get to any of the iflands lying to the eaftward, as they at firft in- tended, they had proceeded to Bolabola, and thence to a little iJfland called Toobaee, where they were appre- hcimed by Pootoe's father. As foon as they were brought on board, the three prlfoners in the Difcovery were reftored to their liberty. Such was the termina- tion of an affair, which had given the Commodore much trouble and vexation. The wind continuing conflantly between the N. and W. kept us in the harbour till Sunday the 7th of De- cember; when, at eight o'clock in the morning, we weighed, and made fail, with a light breeze at tlie N. E, point. During the preceding week we had been vifit- ed by perfons from all quaricrs of the ifland, who af-^ forded us a plentiful fupply of hogs and green plantains, fo that the time we remained wind-bound in the bar- 1)our was not totally loft ; for green plantains are an ex- cellent fijccedaneum for bread, and will keep good for two or three weeks, Befides being furnilhed with thefe provilions, we alfo took in plenty of wood arid water. The Ulietcans appeared to be, in general, fiualler and more black than the natives of the adjacent iflands, and f eemed alfo lefs orderly, which may, perhaps, he owing to their having become i'ubje£t to tbe inhabitants of Bo. Ubola. Oreo, their chief, is only a kind of deputy of the Bolabolan monarch ; and the conquefl fc-ems to have diminifhcd the number of fubordiiiate chiefs re- iident among them : they are, therefore, lefs immedi- ately under the eye of thofe whofe inter^ft it is to cn- fprcc CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 313 force a proper obedience. Though Ulietea is now re- duced to this Aate of humiliating dependence, it was for- merly, as we were informed, the mod eminent of this group of iflands, and was probably the Erfl feat of government ; for we were told, that the prelent royal fomily of Otahche derives itsdefcent from that which ruled here before the late revolution. The dethroned king of Ulietea, whofe name is Ooroo, relides at HUa- hcine, furniftiing, in his own perfon, an inftance not only of the inrtability of power, but alfo of the refped: paid by thefe iflanders to particular families of princely rank ; for they allow Ooroo to retain all the enf igns which are appropriated by them to royalty, notwith- ftanding his having been deprived of his dominions. We obferved a (imilar inftance of this during our ftay at Ulietea, where one of our occafional vifitants was Gapt. Cook's old friend, Oree, late chief of Huaheine. He dill maintained his confequcnce, and was conftantly at- tended by a numerous retinue. I1 fnca^ 3'4 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. Proceed to Bolabola^ accompanied by Oreo and Gthers^—-^ Application to Opoony for Monfieur de Bougainville^^ An- cbor — Rsafom for purchaftng it — Deliracy of Opoony^ in not accepting the Prefent — ^it the Society JJlands^ — . Defcription of Bolabola^ and its Harbour — Curious Hif toryof the Reduction of the two JJlands^ Otaha and Ulie- tea — Bravery of the Men of Bolabola — Account of the Animals left at Bolabola and Ulietca — Procefs offalting Pork — Curfory Obfervaiions refpeding Otaheitc^ and the Society JJJands, HAVING taken our leave of Ulietca, we fleered for Bolabola. Our principal reafon for vifiting this ifland was, to pirocure one of the anchors wliicli had been loft at Otaheite by Monfieur de Bougainville. This, we were informed, had been afterwards found by the natives there, and fent by them to Opoony, the cliiei of Bolabola. It was not on account of our being ia want of anchors that we were anxious to get poffefliou of it ; but,* having parted with all our hatchets, and other iroii tools and implements, in purchaftng refrefli- ments, we were now obligetl to create a frefh aflbrt- ment of trading articles, by fabricating them from the I fpare iron we could find on i)oard, and even the greateft part of that had been already expended. Capt. Cook, therefore, fuppofed Monf. de Bougainville s anchcrj would, in a great mea(ure, fupply our want of this ule- ful niaterial, and he did not entertain a doujt that] Opoony might be induced to part with it. Oreo, accompanied by fix or eight others from Ulie- tca, attended u:; to Bolabola j and, indeed, nioft of the nativesJ nati\ apai fouth iht n break thei/] before found The that thi ^om^ bi ^tpih c S'nd thai this infc bur, tht ox three till the t Captain ( info tht J 'tliei/Iand. , Asfoon ifltroducec of people. "'g over, I jKtoindi peprefen Inight-gowi Jfgi^/afs, fc lioRrever, re lore had rec f go and d pm him w kelfengers ^ Ff'd, wher< l«f'ier iio Jar M that w< Wed feve f palms, tl CAPTAIN COOK'. THIRD VOYAGE natives, excenf th^ i.- c 3 'ST apaffa^ew;t?u.sMEnSH'"°S'^.R'«'''x have takea fouth. point of Boral^C4^-ft^,;f""-% being offihe he mght making fliortb^t 7 f ?**"*''> «•"' paffed brcafc,wcn.ade4Retl';ur"" the 8ti,. at day tlie ifland. The wind befno. C Z'"" '''^ '^eft fide o^ before we were near enoTl ^nl'* ". '"'' "'"<= °'docfc found the entrance. *" '° '^"'^ ^^ay a boat to om but that there "s ^oS "'^^V^'il^y at the hot- depth of water twentv-fi^e.n,f^°-"'' '^"'''"S "nd the ^nd that there was rlmtotmr^^;^''-''> '"«"'°'« I this information, we atf^m!!/ . '"^ 'hips in. Upon K the wind and^de beZ i'° T'^ "»« ^^V^^' itT^TV''^ found it fou?d'nt"h' "' "'«'« '-° M the tide fliould turn in „.""'"« be accomp i(hed .Captain Cook gave ud Ll?"' ^^J°""- Whereupon "ito the harbour and pIk l-^" 'i*^ <^*'"rying the C attended by Oren :.n2 i,-^''^'''""S '" oaeofthehnT I the ifland ^ "''° "■"* ""« companions, was rowed \nZc |^tItdrfcfCrro^^^^^^^^ '"K over he requefted thTchCf?n J "'^^^'^P'-'nents be! H toinduce him tocomi.Jv withfi?'^ '"'" ^^« ="'^hor; Aeprelent he intended for him ^ ^TJ!^' P'-ot'"ced Nht-gown, fome sun^rK i^' [' ™nhfted ofa iinen IWver, refufed to accenrT' 1'"^ ^^«''- Opoonv lore had received tKeS^r^ntt' '".' '.''= ^°'"'"o- |S0 and ^ii^^ .^ hb. 'wfth S'' "^'■"^ ?='■'"«"* f"> him what he thr,„„i!!j • ""^edions to receive feers we fet out fn oWo 1%""^"- ^irh hefe M, "-here the anchor had L^'f H'' "eghbouring Mo large, nor fo pe^S" ^wlf''"'^^!? •,'^« « w" » H that was upon it wTfi,,' ^ u ^^Pe'^ed. By the fcdfevenhu^„Xd^ound"te f» palms, the rin"' .nfl nV^fli- ''"t«now wanted the [Vd H.-N» 34. " •"'' P'"^<'j; th« flianfc. Tiie rca! fan < , CAPTAIN COOr. THIRD VOTAGE. 316 ^Arj. ^ r^sot'A nrefent was fon of Opoony Wufing gpU'H C^^^^^^^ anchor, now apparent ; he, doub^efe, IW ^ .„ -.^ ^,iue, "n hs prefent date, ^^ ^d be difpleafed. The that when he fawrt, ^le wouioo i" j^^j jg he C^mmSaore, notwithftan W°^ ^ ^ ^Uch he, found it. and fent ']!^^^t^^Xubtm^or^P^^ at firft, ''^''=5'*''*;, Jrned on board.hoifted in the boats, the Commodore rf "' "!i°" -n^, while we were hwtt- and made fail to the north, jw, ^ ^^^ ing in the boats, ^e^^^^^J^rcanoes, to fee the Ih.ps. X came o^m J^J^^^^^^^^^e^g, knd a few cocoa They brought witn tncu r nuts. . . .i,.„ till the next day, we fhould Had we reinained there m^ ofprovifions; probably have b^^MXlrfs, ^ difappointed «hen Snd the natives wodd,eouDi^e^, ^^^^^ ^ ^^ they found we w^^S?"*^;, bdard, a^d not many ar- ftcA of hogs a«J |"^„°e we hall no inducement te ffiJSjro&on^^^^^^^^ Oteavanooa, *=]«^'^"; °; capacious ; and, though of (hips. . . uIp of this iOand is a lofty douWe- Towards *e middle ot this « ^ barren on the neaked mountain, which anpeare orbuflies. &de,butoatheweftMe.h^»o ^^^ ^^^ The lower grounds, towaras^ ^ ^^^^ ^j, and mands of this «=«''".v"^'°Je many little iHets that fur- bread fruit tr^- ,, ^^Z number of its inhabiunts, and round it, which ^4f '° 'Se produdions. , to the amount of «* 'T^"^ Jcf Bolabola, being orij Confidering the fmall extent ci ^^^ble that itt eight leagues in circumfeience, f^ „ uiietea an people Should ^»"=„^Xcli ttirnds is, alone, more tl«n gll^iSr!^ -»!^«^^ Cook.threcvcya,. CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VC^AGE. 317 the war which produced this 'great revolution, was frequently mentioned ; and, as it may amufe the reader, we ftiall give the hiftory of it as related by themfelves. Ulietea and Otaha had long been friends ; or, as the natives emphatically exprefs it, they were confidered as two brothers, whofe views and intereAs were the fame. The ifland of Huabeine was alfo admitted as their friend^ but not in fo eminent a degree. Like a traitor, Otaha leagued with Bolabola Jointly to attack Ulietea ; whofe people required the amftance of their friends of Hua- heine, agamil thefe united powers. The inhabitants of Bolabola were encouraged by a prophetefs, who pre- dided their fuccefs ; and, that they might rely upon her prediction, (he defired a man might be fent to a' parti- cular part of the fea, where from a great depth, would arife a ftone. He was accordingly fent in a canoe to the place fpecified, and was going inftantiy to dive after the ftone, when, behold, it fpontaneoufly ftarted up to the furface, and came immediately into his h.adrAU the people were afloniftied at the fight ; the ftone was deemed facred, and depofited in the houfe of the Eatooa; and is ftill preferved, as a proof of that this prophetefs had great influence with the divinity. Elevated with the hopes of vidory, the canoes of Bolabola attacked thofe of Ulietea ana Huaheine ; the encounter was of long duration, and, notwithftanding the miracle, the Bolabola fleet would have been vanquiOied, had not that of Otaha aarrived at the critical moment. The for- tune of the day was now turned, and their enemies were totally defeated.^ Two days after, the men of Bolabola invaaed Huahdne, of which they made themfelves mafters ; it being weakly defended, as moft of it& war- riors were then abfent. Many of its fugitives, however, havinggot to Otaheite, there related their lamentable tale. This fo afFeglrt or t .^y ^^ .^ , peared to be f «?« j. Bay and v,h.te felt, found to be all PX\"'\hebeft,thougheither of them mixed together, anfwe« t^e ,^ ^^^^ „f j^,,,, . will do alone. Oreatcare w« . ^^^^ ^u^y Sod veffels -7-|i{,'^ *t Sftfalting, left th«fj ftould be .Pf'^e'^.'f'^y'^iddle floould heat, andhindJ pieces which are "^ »»? "Xm. In tropical chmateJ the fait from P"»et«"ng tnen^ fultry weather, f Seat ought not to be falted m ramy^^ J ,-,„, j J Europeans havmg, oHate, lo 1 ^^^^ ,^j i iflanders. they f/J;"^ X^sTknowing that. «hej ,0 breed a la^f ^jJ^^^^J be^certain of receiving wl^ ever we come, they V'^I' "^ . .:„„ for them. Th< Zf efteem f.^^Ss SuS, and, in two daUy expeft. the Span>^f »^„„btiefe expeft the Engl three years time they >^» o .^^^^ ^ is ufelefs 'oj there, as well as at the ^'fj "^ foj they fuppofe 4 fure them tl^^/^'^J.^Kone o^hem either W cannot avoid it •, '*>°^Sh none^„g. ^^ ^^^^^.U J of i©pl- hogs re cut while drain again, lained, 5 taken rpeared be cafe, ipacked, ' as again I hereap- rcnerallyl Kite iH : of theml fthelatgel too muclJ left thoM Lndtodcj ^\ climate gather. . fifttedthefl Kat, whed Wing^ r in two I theEngli toefsioj bippofe^ ler Know l\d,perb3 tenigno\ [hey w^ CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 321 Indeed, l)e reftored to their former happy mediocrity, if the intercourfe between us (houM be diicontinued. It 18, in a manner, incumbent on the Europeans to pay their occafional vifits (once in three or four years) to fupply them with thofe articles, which we, by intro- ducing, have given them a predileAion for. The want of fuch fupplies may be feverely felt when it is too late to return to their old imperfect contrivances, which they now defpife and difcard. When the iron tools, witn which we have furniOied them, are worn out, their own will be almoft forgotten. A ftone hatchet is now as great a curiofity among them, as an iron one was ieven or eight years ago ; and a chiird made of bone, or ftone, is no where to be feen. Spike nails have been fubftituted in the room of the latter articles ; and they are weak enough to imagine, that their ftcre of them is inexhauftible, for they were no longer fought after. Knives happened, at this time, to be in high eftima- tion at Ulietea ; and axes and hatchets bore unrivalled fway at all the iflands. Refpedting articles merely or- namental, thefe iflanders are as changeable as the moft polilhed European nations ; for, an article which may be prized by them to-day, may, perhaps, be rejcdled to-morrow, as a fafhion or whim may alter. But our iron implements are fo evidently ufeful, that they muft continue to be high in their eftimation. They would, indeed, be miferable, if thev fhould ceafc to receive fup- plies of what appears neceltary to their comfortable ex- iftence ; as they are deftitutc of the materials, and ig- norant of the art of fabricating them. In our former relations, too much has already been jpubliQied, refpedling fome of the modes of life, which [rendered Otaheite fo pleafmg an abode to many of our )ple ; and, if we could add any hniihing ftrokes to Ithal pidure, we fhould be unwilhng to exhibit a view of fuch licentious manners as cannot fail to be dif- jguftui^. Having now concluded our account refpeding thefe iilands, 322 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. iflands, which (land fo confpicuous in the lift of our difcoveries, ws refer the reader to the following chap- ter, for which we arc indebted to Mr Anderlon. SlMures on former Accounts of Otaheite^-The prevailing Winds — Beauty and Fertility of the Country — Land but little cultivated — Produce — Natural Curiojities — Defcnp^ iion of the Natives — Delicacy of the Women — Their ge- neral CharaSler — Difpofed to amorous Gratifications'^^ Their Language — Ignorance of Surgery and PhyftC'^m Animal Food chiefly eaten by the fuperior Clafs — Perni" cious Effe6ls of Ava — Account of their different Meal: — Connexions between the tiuo Sexes-^Circumcifion^-^ Religion — Notions concerning Immortality'"Super/iitions"~ Strange Traditions about the Creation — The King aU mqft deified — Clafes of the People — Punifhments — PecW' liarities of the adjacent Iflands — Limits of their Nm- gation. AFTER fome prefatory remarks, on the accounts of | the lucceflive voyages of Captain Wallis, Mon- fieur de Bougainville, and Captain Cook, Mr Anderfon begins to relate fuch particulars concerning Otahelte, j and its neighbouring iflands, as he was able to pro-| cure from Omai, or by converfing with the other na- tives. For the greateft part of the year, the wind blows! from between £. S. £. and £. N. li. It fometimesl blows with confiderable force, and is called by the na- tives,! permit this in it has t from S. former, breezes, li^h^ wc a clofe I; and Jighi Thou^ iecigeof fome cor a hollow Uyitpor andtliev 'tobeexDi Thei^, Jjnoft luxJ m\ ftee] reryfumr Jtopofle/s [tiling. Tj Vodudlior convey to Nntry uj "d beauti in diftr CAPTAIN COOK'a THIRD VOYAGE. 323 our lap- id but efcrip^ eir ^e- onj— - ,Perni- Meals m- — Hiions'" tng al- 'PecU' )unt8 of ,, Mon- Inderfon )tabeUe, I to pro- ler na- blows leiimes the na- iives, tlves, Maaraee. When the wind blows ilrong, the wea-" ther 19 ufually cloudy, with fortie rain ; but, when it is more moderate, it is clear, fettlecK and fcrtne : if the wiud fhould Veer to S. E. or S. S. E. it blows more' gently, and is called Maoai. In December and January, when the fun is nearly vertical, both the winds and- weather are very variable ; but it often blows from W, N. W. or N. W. This wind is called Tocrou ; and is' ufually attended by cloudy weather, and fometiines rain. It feldom continues more than five or fix days without interruption; and is the only wind that will permit the inhaoitants of the iflands to leeward to vilit this in their canoe& If the wind is dill more northerly, it has the different appellation oi Era-potaia. The wind from S. W. and W. S. W. is more frequent than the former, and is ufually gentle, with occaiional calms and breezes, yet it fometimes blows in very brifk fqualls. The weather is then generally cloudy and rainy, with a clofe hot air : often accompanied with much thunder and lightniufT. It is called, by the natives, Etoa, Though the natives have no very accurate know- ledge of thofe changes, they pretend' to have drawn fome conclufions from their efieds. When the fea has a hollow found, and daflies mildly on the fhore, they' tiyit portends good weather ; but, if it founds harfhly, and tlie waves rapidly fucceed each other, the rcverfe is tobeexpefled. The iouth-eaft part of Gtaheite, affords one of he moll luxuriant profpeds in the univerfe. The hills i re high, fteep, and craggy ; but th^y are covered to tk>e veryfummits with trees and (hrubs ; the rocks feeminij- |lo polfefs the property of producing their verdanv clo - The lower land and vallies teem with various rodudions, that grow with exuberant vigour, and' nvey to the mind of the beholders, an idea, that no' ountry upon eaith can vie with this in the flrengi'v " beauty of vegetation ; nature has been equally libe- in diftributing rivulets, which glide through every Vol. IL-N* 34. Ss valley, 324 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. valley, dividing, as they approdch the fea, into feveral branches, tertihzing the lancfs through which they run. The habitations of the natives are irregularly fcattered upon the flat land ; and many of them, along the fhore, anorded us a delightful fceau from our fhips ; efpecially as the fea, within the reef, i8,perfedlly ftill, and afiords, at all times, a fafe navigation for the inhabitants, who ar i of- ten fecn paffing andrepafling in their canoes. On behold- ing thefe delightful fcenes, I have often regretted my inability to tranfmit fuch a defcription of them, as would convey an impveifion fomewhat fimilar to what I felr, who have been fortunate enough to have been on the fpot. The natural fertility of the country, combined with the mildnefs and ferenity of tlie climate, has ren- dered the natives fo carelefs in their cultivation, that the fmalleft traces of it cannot, in many places, be difcover- edy though overflowing with the richeft prcduAions. The cloth plant, and the ava, or intoxicating pepper, are almofl the only things io which they ihew any at- tention. The bread fruit tree is never planted, but fprings from the roots of the old ones, which fpread themfelves near the furface of the ground. Hence we may obferve, that the inhabitants of Otaheite, inflead of being under a neceility of planting their bread, will rather be obliged to prevent its progrefs ; which is, perhaps, fometixnes done, to afforci room for a different fort of trees, which Xiiay enable them to make fome variety in their food. The principal of thefe trees are the cocoa nut and plantain ; ihe fnfl of which requires no attention, after it appears a foot or two above the ground ; but the plantain requires fome care in the cultivation ;' for, about three months after it (hoots up, it begins to bear fruit; during which tioie it puts forth young fhoots, whicli fupply a fucceffion of fruit ; the old ftocks being cutj down as the fruit is taken off. The products of the ifland are more remarkable foi their great abundance tb^n for their variety ; and curi i^^ties here are not very numerous. Aii^opg theie mr CAPTAIN GOOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 32; 1-! reckoned a large lake of frefti water, on the top of one of the higheft mountains, at the diflance of almolt two days journey. It is remarkable for its depth, and abounds with eels of enormous fize. This being efteem- ea the greatefl natural curiofity of the country^travellers, who come from other iflands, are ufually aiked, among the firft things, at their return, whether they have fcen it. There is alfo a fmall pond of water on this ifland, which hob a yellow fediment at the bottom. It has the appearance of being very good, but has an ofFenfive tafte, and often proves fatal to thofe who drink a quan- tity of it ; and thofe who bathe in it, break put ia blotches. On our arrival here, we were (Iruck with the remark- able eontraft between the inhabitants of Tongataboo, and thofe of Otaheite ; the former being of a robuft make, and dark colour, and the latter having a diftin* guiilied delicacy and whitenefs. That difference, how- ever, did not immediately preponderate in favour of the Qtaheiteans ; and when it did, it was, perhaps,occafioned more by our becoming accuftomed to them; the marks, which had recommended the others, beginning now to be forgotten.^ The women, however, of Otaheite, poffefs all thofe de-^ licate chara^eriilic8,which in many countries dillinguilh them from the other fex. The men wear their beards iong here, and their hair confidcrably longer than at TongataboG, which gaye them a very different appear- ance:. The Otaheiteans are timid and fickle. They are not fo mufcular and robuft as the Friendly Iflanders, arifing, .perhaps, from their being accuftomed to lefs aftion J the fuperior fertility of their country enabling them to lead a more indolent life. They have aplump- nefs and fmoothnels Of the fkin ; which, though more confonant with our ideas of beautv, is far from being an advantage ; and is attended witn a kind of langour in all their motions. This is vifible in their boxing and wreftling, which difplay only the feeble efforts ofchii- dren, if compared with the vigour and activity with S s 2 which mmi^mim 32<5 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. which fuch exercifes are performed at the Friendly Ilknds. Asperfonal endowments are in high eftimation among them, they have various methods of improving them^ according to their ideas of beauty. Among the erreoes, or unmarried men, efpecially thofe of fome confe- quence, it is cuftomary to undergo a kind of phyfical operation, to render them fair ; which is done by con- tinuing a month or two in the houfe, weariisg a great quantity of cloaths the whole time, and eating nothing but bread fruit, which they fay is remarkably efficacious in whitening the Hitin. They alfo intimate, that their corpulence and colour, at other times, depend upon their food ; being obliged, as the feafons vary, to ufe different food at difierent times. Ninertenths, at leaft, of their common diet, confift of vegetable food ; and the mahee, or fermented bread fruit, which is an article in almoft every nieal, prevents coftivenefs, and has a Angular effect in producing a coc^efs about them, which was not perceivable in us who fed on animal food. To this temperate courfe of life,, may, perhaps, be attributed their having fo few dif- eafes among them. Indeed, they mention only five or fix chronic or national diforders ; among which are the dropfy, and the fefai^ mentioned as frequent at Tonga- taboo. This was, however, before the arrival of the Europeans ; for we have added a difeafe to their cata- logue, which abundantly fupplies the place of all the others, and is become almoft univerfal ; and for which they feem to have no effedlual remedy. Tlie priefts, indeed, adminille^ a medley of funples, but they ac- knowledge it never cures them.<»^They admit, how- ever, that in feme few cafes, nature alone has extermi- nated the poifon of this loathfome difeafe, and produced a perfect recoveiy. They fay alfo, that thofe infeded with it, communicate it to others, by handling them, or feeding on the fame utenfils. They (hew an opennefs, and generofity of difpofi- tion, upoa all occahons. Omai, indeed, has frequent- ly CAPTAIN COOK'ft THIRD VOYAGE. 327 w dif- ive or xe the 'ong> if the catar ill the hkh •riefts, [ey ac- how- termi- iduced ifeded |em, or fifpofi- ment- ly lyfaid, that they exercife cruelty in punifhing their enemies, and torment them with great deliberation ; fometimes tearing out fmall pieces of flefli from difl«renl parts of the body ; at other times, plucking out the eyes, then cutting off the nofc; and laftly, compleating the bufmefs, by opening tlie belly. But this i*- only on very extraordinary occaiians. If chearfulnefs refulte from confcious innocence, one would imagine their whole lives had been unfullied with a crime. This, however, may be rather imputed to their feelings, which, though lively, are never permanent. Under any mis- j fortune, after the critical moment is paft, they never labour under the appearance of anxiety. Care never produces a wrinkle on their brow ; even tlie approach of death does not deprive tiiem of their vivacity, I^ have feen them, when on the brink of the grave by difeafe, and when preparing to attack the enemy ; but, ' in neither of thefe cafes, have I ever obferved their coun- i tenances overclouded with melancholy or dread. Dilpofed, as they naturally are, to direct their ainis to I what will afford them eafe or pleafure, all their amufe- nients' tend to excite their amorous paflions ; and their fongs, with whigh they are greatly delighted, are direct- ed to the fame purpofe. A conftant fuccefiion of fenfual [enjoyments muft, however, cloy ; and they occafionally Ivaiied *^hem to more reiined fulyeds; they chanted Itkir tni.mphs in war, and their amufements in peace ; [their travels and adventures ; and the peculiar advan- ages of their own ifland. Thisfliews that they are immoderately fond of muiic, nd though they did not relifh our complicated com- bofitions, they were much delighted with the more jnelodious foimds, when produced fmgly, as they, in Mine degree, refembled the fimplicity of their own. They equally experience the foothing eiiedts produced \l particular kinds of motion : which, in many cafes, allay any perturbation of mind, as fuccefsfully a& aulic. Of this, the following may ferve as a remark- i inftance* Walking, one day, about M^taveu Point, I faw mmm' 328 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. grief, d( Icat of mind ai tli I faw a man in a fmall canoe, paddling with fuch ex* pcdition, and looking fo eagerly about him, as to com- mand my whole attention. At fir ft, I fuppofed he had— .„ ^ been pilfering from one of the fhips, and was purfuedjR„j.eJend but he prefently repeated his amufement. He proceed-MffJue in ed from the (bore to the place where the fwell begins; and, attentively watching its firft motion, paddled fv?ift, ly before it, till he perceived it overtook him, nnd hao acqiiired fufficient ftreiigth to force his canoe before Ir without pafling underneath. He then ceafed paddling, and was carried along as rapidly as the wave, till he waj landed upon the beach ; when he ftarted from his canoe, emptied it, and went in purfuit of another fwelJ. H feemed to experience the moft fupreme delight, whiii he was thus fwiftly and fmoothly driven by the fea His mind was fo wholly occupied in this bufmefs, that] though crowds of his country uien were colleded to of ierve our tents and fliips, as being obje£ls that were hot rare and curious to them, he did not notice them in th leaft. Two or three of the n?itives drew near, while was obferving him, and feemed to jiartake of his felicity calling out to inform him when there was an appeal ance of a favourable fwell. This exercife, which imderftand is very frequent among them, is calle tfliorooe. I'hough the language of Otaheite feems radically t fame as that of New Zealand and the Friendly Ifland it has not that guttural pronounciation, and is prim of fome of the confonants, with which thefc dialed abound ; which has rendered it, like the manners of tl inhabitants, foft and foothing. It abounds with beaui ful and figurative eKpreilions, and is fo copious, th; they have above twenty different names for the bre fruit ; as many for the taro root, and half that numl for the cocoa nut. Tl;sy have one cxpreflfion correfponding- cxadl with the phrafeology ot the Scriptures, viz, ** Yearnii of the bowels." They ufe it upon every occafion, whi ^iTc^^ed by the paffions] conftantly referring painfrc grii pie frad he bone 1 piece o rapaoo, < lix days, the grow patient a vercd ; lathes in Woun( lets, and t other exti tain fome (hofe cafei larfrom b an arm, w pearance c fowance fc man goin months af kmg UQa though it is Fradure eyalfokn lofthe body fedge feemi lifeafes are owever, th '''omen, aft terchild-b ^iryinahot a thick a fmall pi CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 3J9 grief, defire, and other afFedlions, to the bowels, as the leat of it ; where they imagine, all operations of the mind are alfo performed. In the arts, they are extremely deficient ; yet they )retend to perform cures in furgery, which oiir know- edge in that hranch has not enabled us to imitate. Sim- ple fradures are bound up with fplints, but, if a part of the bone be lofl:, they infcrt, between the fra8 of our furgery. Fractures of the fpine, they know, are mortal ; and tiey alfo know, from experience, in what particular parr^ lofthe body wounds prove fatal. Their phyfical know- ledge feems yet more hmited, becaufe, perhaps, their ^ifeafes are fewer than their accidents. In fome cafes, however, the priefts adminifter the juices of herbs ; antl iwomen, afflidted with after-pains, or other complaints kcr child-bearing, ufe a remedy which fe^ms unnecef- |ary in a hot country. Having heated fome ftoncs, they a thick cloth over them, covered with a quantity a fmall plant of the mu(hrd kind ; and over them i^ ii rm 1 ; I III 330 CAPTAIN COOlt's THIRD VOYAGE, is fpread another cinth. On this they feat thcmfelvcf?, anci fweat profufely to obtain a cure. This method has been pradli-i'ed by the naen, though inefFcdlually, for the cure of the venereal hiea. It js remarkable, that they have no emetic medicines here. A famine frequently happens in this ifland, notwith- flanding its extreme fertiliiy, in which many people are faid to perifh. Whether thus calamity be owing to the fcanty produce of fome fealbns, to over-population, or to wars, I have not been fufHciently informed ; hut it has taught them to exercife the ftrifteft oeconomy, even in the times of plenty. In a fcarcitv of provifion, when their yams and bread- fruit are confumcd, they have recourfe to various roots which grow uncultivated upon the mountains. The patarra, which is found in great plenty, is firft ufed : it fomewhat refembles a large potatoe, or yam ; and, when in its growing ftate, is good, but becomes hard and ftringy when old. They next eat two other roots, one of which appears like taro ; and then the ehoee. Of this there are two forts ; one of which poflefles deleterious qualities, which requires it to be fliced, and macerated in watpr, a night before it is baked for eating. It refem- bles, in this refpe towards an objeX for whom he had the leaft affeC^ion oreftcem. It is, however, extremely common to fee the men beat them moft unmercifully ; and unlefs this behaviour proceeds from jealoufy, which both fexes fometimes pretend to be infected with, it will be difficult to aifign a reafon for it. This may the more readily bq admitted as a motive, as I have known many inftances, where intereft has been rejefted for perfonal beauty s though, even in thefe qafcs, they are not fufceptible of thofe delicate fentiments that relult from mutual ajfec- tion. Platonic love is hardly known in Otaheite. From a notion of cleanlin^fs, th^ (putting of the fore* likin is a pradlice aniong them; and they beftow a rcptoa'chiu! epithet upon thole who negle^ that ope<« Ti % ratioa ^1 ! I 3^4 CA^rAlN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGft. raliori. When five o)r fix lAds in a nieighbouthood arc pretty Vrell growrt iit>, it is n\s6t kAo\^'n to a tahoua, by the father of one ot them. The tahoua, attfended by a fervarlt, conducts the.iads to the tqjof the hills ; and, After feating one of them in k proper manner^ places a piece oiF wood beneath the forelkin; at the fame time amufmg him, by defiring him to look afide at fome- thirig which he prerends to fee. The young man's at- tention bein|; thus engaged, he Immediuccly cuts through the IkiA with a /harlc s tooth, and feparates the divided parts J then, after putting on a bandage, he perforflfia the famfe operation on the other hds who afttiend him. /Five days after they have been thus difci|>linedi ihty tjathc, the bandages ate removed^ and the matter is deaftfed iway. When five days more are expired, they bathe again, ahd ire recovered ; but, as » thicknefs of the 'pte^iice remaift^\, Occafioned by the cu. iig^ th«y again ^{cerid the moufttaios with thft tahoua and lervant, where a fire is prepared, and (otnt ftones heated ; be- tweeti two of which the prepuce is placed by the tahoua, aiid is gently iqueessed, in ord^er to renaove the diicknefs, l%isd3ie,they Wlturn home, adorned wkl\odoriferou$ llbwetS \ and the tahoua is rewarded by thefethets of the lads, according to their feveral abilities, witli^prc'. fehl oif hogfe alwd cloth j and if theii* poverty WiM not jDiermit them to itialce a proper acfeiowledgcment,'tlieir relations, on thife occafion, are esepe^led to be lifberal Their religious fyftem abounas in iifigulaiudes; and few of the commton people have a competent know- ledge of it, tJiat being principally confined to their priefts, which, iildced, are mmaeroiis. T^iey ^iiy m E articular refpe<9: to one god, as pofleiling pr^-^mm^ncej ut believe in a pflurality of diviiaities, Who have eacfajl plenitude 6f power. As different parts of tlie iHand, aod the other neigh- bouring iflandfe, hiave differeftt^^ods, the reftjediiVe inha- bitants imagine t^ey have chOIen ^he moft 'tenttnent,or Otfe wlio IS, at leaft, fufficiently. powerful to prdted tihe^, and to f\ipply their n^ceflities. If he Ihould jiot CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 33> not give them fjiti«fa£kion, they think it n» impiety to chat^. Aft inHancc of this kind has htely happened In Tiaraboo, where two divinities have been difcarded, artd Oi?aa, g;od of BolaboU, hag been adopted in their room. They have probably been induced to make this new choice, occaufe his people have been vidorious in ^ar ; and, liaving, fince their new ele^ion, been fuc- cefsful againft the inhabitants of Otaheitc-nooe, it h folely imputed to Oraa, who literally f)ghts their battles. In fcrving their gods, their afliduity is remarkably confpicuous. The whattas, or oiFering places of the inorais are, in general, loaded with fruits and animals ; artd almoft every boufe has a portion of it fet ai>art for a fimilar purpole. Many of them are fo rigidly Scru- pulous in their religious matters, that they will hot even begin a meal, till they have laid Jifide a morfel for the Eatooa ; and we have feen their fuperftitious zeal car- ried to a moft pernicious heiight in their human f^ri- fices, which are, I fear, too frequent. They probably have rccourfe to thcna to avert misfortunes. Their prayers, which they always diant like the fongs in theii: teftive entertainments, arc alfo very frequent. As in other caies, fo in retigion, the women ar« obliged to fbew their inferiority. When they pafs the morais, they muft partly uncover themfdves, or take an €xtenfive circuit to 5i void 'them. Thmigh they do not entertain an opinion, that their-god muift be continually conferring beneiits, wiit!hput fometiraes foriaking t^hem ; they are lefe concerned at this, than at the attempts of feme inaufpictous being to injure them . Etce, they fay, is an evil fpirit, who delights in mischief; to whom they make offerings, as well as to their •clivinity. But Jill the mif^hieife they apprchGn£( iv9W> invifibl^ beings^ are merely t^ttp©rafl; As to the foul, they believe it to he both immortal atid immateml ][ diat, during the t>^ngsi of death, it keeps flutteringabout the lips ; and that it afcenda, and ts eaten by the deity : that it continues in this 4iat» for foaie time ; after \vhicl\ it tal^es its paffage to a oettaii^ place^ •>te. '^i 33^ CAPTAIN COOK»t THIRD VOYAGE. 1 place, dcftincd to receive the fouls of men, and has exigence in eternal night ; or rather in a kind of dawD, er twilight. The expedl no permanent puniflimcnt hereafter, for crimen committed upon earth ; the fouls of g;ood and bad men heinf; indifcriminately eaten by the deity. But they confider this coalition as a kind of neceflTary puri- fication before they enter the regions of blifs ; for their tlodrine inculcates, that thoi'e who refrain from all fcnfual conncv^'on with women feme months before they depart this life, pafs into their eternal manfion, without fuch a previous union, as if, by fuch an ab- ftinence, they were fufficiently pure to be exempted from the general lot. They have not indeed thofe fublime conceptions of happinefs, which our religion, and, indeed, our realon, teach us to expeft hereatter. Immortality is the only gr^at privilege they think they (hall acquire by death j for they fuppofe that fpirits are not entirely diverted of thofe paflions, by which they were actuated when com- bined with material vehicles. Thus, at a meeting of fouls which were formerly enemies, many conflid;s may eofue, which muft certainly be ineifedtual, as thofe who are in this invifible ftate muft be invulnerable. Their reafoning is fimilar with regard to the meeting of a man and his confort. If the hufband departs this life firft, the foul of his wife is no ftranger to him, on its arrival in the land of fpirits. They renew their former intimacy, in a capacious building, called Tourooa, where departed fouls aflemble to recreate tbemfelves with the gods. The huiband then conducts her to bis feparate habitation, where they eternally refide, and have an offspring, which, however, is purely fpiritml, as their embraces are fuppofed to be far different irom thofe of corporeal beings. Many of tlieir notions refoefting the Deity, are ex- travagantly abfurd. They fuppofe him to be under the influence of thofe fpirits, who derive their exiftehce from him j and that they frequently eat him,, though he mtm CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE. 317 are ex- ke under jxiftehce thougH he he has power to recreate hlmfelf. They cannot con- vcrfe about immaterial things, without referring lo ma- terial objedls to convey their meaning, and therefore, perhaps, they ufethiR mode of expreflion. They further add, that, in the tourooa, the deity cn- (juires whether they mean to deftroy him, or not ; and tneir determination is tmalte^able. This is nor or.ly known to the fpirits, but alio to the inhabitants of the earth ; for, when the m(K>n is on its wane,- they are fup- pofed to be devouring their Eatooa ; and, in the pro- portion that it increales, he is renewing himfelf. And the fuperior, as well as the inferior gods, are liable to this accident. Other places, they alfo believe, are prepared for the leception of departed fouls. Thus they are of opinion, that thofc who are drowned in the fea, co^itinuc there, and enjoy a delightful country, fumptuous habitations, and every thing that can contribute to their happinefs. They even maintain that all other animals, liave ihuh ; and even trees, fruit, and ftones ; which, at their dc- ceafe, or upon their being confumed or broken, afcend to the deity, from whom they pals into their delllned manfion. They imagine, that every temporal blefling is derived from their pundual performance of religious olnces. They believe that the powerful influence of the divine fpirit is univerfally diftufed, and therefore it cannot he matter of furprize that they adopt many fuperftitious opinions concerning its operations. Sudden deaths, and all other accidents, they fuppole to be cffeiSted under the immediate impulfe of fome divinity. If a man re- ceives a wound in his toe, by flumbling againd a (lone, it is imputed to an Eatooa. In the night, on approaching a toopapaoo, where dead bodies are expofed, they are ftartled and terrified ; as many of our ignorant and fuperftitious people are at the light of a church-yard, or with the apprehenfions of gholls. They have implicit confidence in dreams, fup- j pofmg them to . be communications from their Deity, \ii 33^ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, !^^ I \%f< or from the fpirits of their friends who have departed this life ; and that thofq who are favoured with them can foretel future events : but this kind of knowledge is limited to particular perfons. Omai pretended to have thefe communi<;ations. He aiTured us, that, on the 26th of July, 1 776, his father's foul hgid intimated to him in a dream, that he fliould land fomewhere in three days ; but he was unfortunate in his firft prophetic attempt, for we did not get into TenerifFe till tlie lirft of Auguft, Their dreamers, however, are thought Htde inferior to their infpired priefts and prieftefles, whofe predi^ions are univerfally credited ; and all undertakings of confe- quence are determined by them. Opoony has a parti- cular efteem for the prieuefs who penuaded him to in- vade Ulietea, and always roniults her previous to hig going to war. Our old dod:rinc of planetary influence, they, in fome degree, adopt ; and are fometimes regu- lated, in their public counlels, by the appearances of the moon. If, on its firft appearance after the change, it lies horizontally, they are encouraged to engage in war, and feem confident of fuccefs. They hav« ftrange ohicure traditions concerning the creation. Some goddefs, they fay, had a lump of earth fufpended in a cord, and, by reiving it a fwing round, fcattered about fevtral pieces of land, which cc«ilituted Otaheite and the adjacent iilaods ; and that they were all peOipled by one of each fex, who originally fixed at Ota- heite ; but tills only reipedts their own immediate crea- tion ; for thev admit pf an univerfal one before this. Their remoteA account extends to Taiooma and Tapup- pa, who are male and female rocks, and fupport our globe. Thefe begat Totorro, who was killed and di- vided into parts or parcels of land ; then Otaia and Orop were produced, who were afterwards married, and firft begat land , And then a race pf gods. Otaia hdbag killed, Oroo marries her fon, a god, narn^d Teorraha, whpmi ihe orders ed that one of the ftragglers was flill in this difagreeable lituation.than he detached a party in fearch of him ; but neither the man nor the party having returned, the next morning the Commodore ordered two boats into the lagoon, to profecute the fearch by different tracks. In a fhort time after, Captain Clerke's detachment returned, with their loft companion ; in confequence of which the boats difpatched into tli^ lagopn were called back by fignal, i CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. a^** that ihey ejoin aring being cocoa thirft, inking irpofe. d, was efFcds Siallow This man's diftrefs muft have been far greater than that of the other (Iraggler ; not only as he had been loft a longer time, but as he was too delicate to drink turtleV blood. Having fome yams and cocoa nuts on board, in a ftate of vegetation, we planted them, by Captain Cook's 6rder, on the fmall ifland where he had obferved the late eclipfe ; and fome feeds of melons were fown in another place. The Captsdn alfo left on that little ifle a botde containing the following infcription : nr way, r which 1, where ii milcft ede their Lrubs dif- malls of ,er, was a nor did ips Vay at get back ftraggled enerality of being fe them- ariy were Georgitu TertiuSyReXy 31 Decemhrls^ ^777* " Re/olution, Jac, Cook^ Pr, Difcovery, Car, Gierke^ Pr, Naves On Thurfday the ift of January, 1778, the Com- modore fent out feveral boats to bring on board our different parties employed afhore, with the turtle which they had caught. It being late before this bulinefs wa» completed, he thought proper to defer failing till the next morning. We procured at this ifland, for both /hips, about three hundred turtles, which weighed, one with another, about ninety pounds : they were all of the green fort, and, perhaps, not inferior in goodnefs to my in the world. We alio caught, with hook and linej a great quantity of fifh, principally cqniifting of ca- Ivallies, fnappers, and a few rock fifh of two fpecies, ono A\k whitiin flreaks fcattered about, and the other with umerous blue foots. The foil of this ifland (to which Captain Cook gave he name of Chriilmas Ifland, as we kept that feflival lere) is, in fome places, light ^nd blackilh, compofedof 'and» the dung of birds, and rotten vegetables. In other larts, it is formed of broken coral floncs, decayed ihells^ nd other marine productions. Thefe are depofited ia Dng, narrow, ridges, lying parallel with the feacoall; with^heir Ind mull have been thrown up by the wavee, though the boaw Biey do not reach, at preient, within a mile of fome of bv fi^al. liefe places, This,feems to prove ipconteftably, tlvat TUi%l the lat one of ition.than Lcither the It morning jlagoon, to (horttimc SSt CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOTAGE. fhe iilahd has beeti prroduced by different accefSont from the fea, and is in a Aate of augmentation ; the brc&en pieces of coral, and likewife many of the ^ells, being too large and heavy to have been brought ^tn fhe Mach by any birds to the places where they are now ^^; 'c could not find any where a drop of frefli water, thoi^h we frequeiltly dug for it. We met with fevcral {ion£of fait water, which, as they had no vifible com. munication with the fea, vrixc probably filled by the water filtrating through the fand during the time of high tides. Oncf of the men who loft their way found fome fait on the S. E. part of the ifland. We could not difcover th^ fmalleft traces of any human creature hay- ing ever been here before us ; and, indeed, fhould any one be accidentally driven on t?he idand, or left there, he would hardly be able to prolong his exiftence. For, though there are birds and n(h in abundance j there are no vifible means of allaying t lirft, nor any vegetable that would ferve as a fubftitute for bread, or Corred^ the bad eifeds of an animal diet. On the few cocoa put trees upon the ifland, we fourid very little fruit, and that little not good. A few low trees were obferved in fome parts, befidej ieveral fmall fhrubs and plants, which grew in a very languid manner. We found a fort of purflain, a fpecies cHjda'^ot Indian mallow, and another plant that f^emed, from its leaves, to be a me/embryanthemum ; with two forts ofgrafs. Under the low trees fat vaft numbers of a new fpecies of tern, or egg-bird, black above, and white bdow, having a white arch on the forehead. , Thefe hii'ds are fomewhat larger than the common noddy ; I their eggs are blui(h, and fpeckled with black. There ?wer6 likewife many common boobies ; a fort greatly nefemblin^ a gannet; and a chocolate-coloured ipeciesJ with a white belly. Men- of- war birds, curlews, plovers, tropic birds, petrels, &c. are alfo to be feen here. Wei ^w feveral rats, fmaller than ours. There were num« bcrs of land ca^h ^nd fmall lizards, Chrift^l CAPTAIK COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE.' 3S? [h water, :h feveral ible cotn- d by the e time of ay found :ould not tore hav- lould any left there, ICC For, there are vegetable :otre61the cocoa put fruit, and Chriftmas Ifland is fuppofed by Captain Cook to be between fifteen and twenty leagues in circuit. Its form is femi-circulai* ; or like the moon in her lafl quarter, the two horns being the north and fouth points. The vreft fide^ or the fmall ifland (Ituate at the entrance into ^e lagoon, lies in the longitude of 2oz d. 30 m. £• and in the latitude of i d. cq m. north. Like mod of the other iOos in this ocean, Chriftmas Ifland is furrounded by a reef pf « I ad not fucc»edeil. Anl fL '^^ ' "j."' '"' endeavoiira Jat .hi. will con(bnrt;it e':ri?"r "l^^P^^hS ours, whenever it is nece/T.rv »W ' ''"^'' ^ovages ai be employed on ftmre TK? " '"*">' P^op'e ftould n>em., to /n amoro. sTnterlt^':.""'^'' ""d '"^"e- to be effeflually guarXcraga rift n? l' "^ ""'"='•<'« fident a commander may be of thl'i . .. H'^'^^^r con- IS often undeceived too I«» a '"^^'"' "^ ''■' men he ..ere are in gencraltbe found fon,? " r"'"'^'<'f men* fulnefs. endeavour ro conceal thdrh' '^'"'' ""^ "^ '»«>- ymptom,: and there are mW 7'"^' '7 ^•'="'=^«l h^l^rr' ^r '° '^''re to whf ' ° profligate and this dileafe. We had ^^ ^a '"^ycommunicnr. Toog^taboo. in tl e Gunne of thf.fr''''^ '-« maT t I'een ftationed on ftore a1 1 "''^.°''ery, who had contrafted this diforder he com- ^"T'"8 "^W he had ■ons with different women who ™ r" ''^^''-- ^"""e^ l'«n, nil that time, free from^n '?'^i:= f^PPofed to have f^tor?? totS"he°i''"V'''-='' "a-l been "'th the ftips. Toward, Zu'7^ 1°°'' off and o^ came back and report^' trV^- ^r Williamfon beach, near one o/the Xel a fr '''^T'' ''^'''"d » fc't by the natives to conta&n^ ,^^ P°'"'' '^'''ch waj "as tolerable anchoring CToun^ IT"' ^'"^ "^^ tbe^ menttoned. that he had S 1 "^"'^ "• ^^ al/b nother place, but was prevented S T^^S' '° ^'^<> in h^mgdown in great nSl J, rL h* '^*"'^^"' ^H ed.tptake away The oars m^r ^ ''°'f«' endeavour- "f'cle which they could ianSf'^ «"'' ^^^^X oAw 36o CAPTAlK COOK^s THIRD VOYAGE. Captain Cook till after we had quitted the ifland ; io that all his meai'ures were dtreded as if no affair of that kindi bad happened. Mr Williamibn informed him^ that as foon as the man fell, he was taken up and ear- ned off by his countrymen, who then retired fron* the boats ; but (lill they made flgnals for our people to lan<^ wh'ieh thev declined. It did not appear, that the nap lives had tne leaft intention of killing, or even hurting-, any of Mr Williiimfon's party ; but they fecmed to have been excited by curiofity alone, to get from them what they had, being prepared to ^ve, m return, any thing that appertained to themfelves. Captain Cook then difpatched one of the boat& to lie in the befl anchor'mg cround ^ and when (he had gained this ftation^ he bore down with the {hips, and call an- chor in twenty- five fathoms water, over a fandy bottom. The caftern point of the road, which was the low point already mentioned, bore S. 51 d. £. the we(l point, N. 6^ d. W. and the village near which the frefli water waa faid to be, was one mile dlftant.. The fhip& being thus Rationed,, between three and four In the afternoon, the Captain went aihore with three armed boats, and twelve of the marines,, with a view of examining the water, and trying the difpqiition of the inhabitants^ who had aflemUea in confiderable numbers on a fandy beach before the village ; behind it was a valley, m which was the piece of water. The moment he leaped on '^Ihore, all the inlanders fell proftrate upon their face^^ and continued in that pofture of humiliation, till, by iigns, he prevailed on them to rife. They then pre- fented to him many imall pigs, with plantain trees^ making u& of nearly the fame ceremonies which vn -had feen {Hradbifed, on fimikr oceafions, at the Society and other ifles ^ and a bng oration or prayer being pro wmnced by aa mdtvidualv iti which others of the af- iembly occafionally joined. Capt^n Cook fienified his acceptance of their profiered ^lendihip, by beftowingj on theme, in jretum, fuch prefents as he had brou; ' 9ibQi^* This iotrodudory huTmefk being ended, ftatioO' fiV-^ ind ; i® r of that ed him;, and car- frona the : tx) land, the na^ hurtin; o* I to have em what ny thing >at& to lie idgasoed i call an- Y bottom. tow point pcunt^N. e(h water lips being iftcrnoon, joats, and Kming the tants^who ndy beach m which leaped on 'htvc faceSj a, till, by ^ then pw- itain treeS) which we the Society being pro- of the af- ignifiedliiis ' beftowing iid brou ended, ftation- ::J^. y-: ♦ I *. CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 3^1 Rationed a guard upon the beach, and was then con-^ dudted by fome of the natives to the water, which he found extremely good, and fo confiderahle that it might be denominated a lake. After this, he returned on board, and ifiued orders that preparations fhould be made for filling our water cafks m the morning ; at which time he went afhore with fome of his people, having a party of marines for a guard. They had no fooner landed, than a trade was enter- ed into for potatoes and hogs, which the iflanders gave in exchange for nails and pieces of iron. Far from giv- ing any obftrudUon to our men who were occupied in watering, they even affifted them in rolling the cafks.-to and from the pool, and performed with alacrity what- ever was required of them. Captain Cook leaving tlic command at this flation to Mr WilUamfon, who had landed with him, made an excurfion into the country, up the valley, being accompanied by Meffrs Anderfon and Webber, and followed by a numerous train of na- tives, one of whom, who had been very a6:ive in keep- ing the others in order, the Captain made choice of as a guide. This man, from time to time, proclaiming the approach of our gentlemen, every perfon who met them, fell proftratc on the ground, and remained in that humble pofidon till they had pafTed. This, as we were afterwards informed, is their method of ihewing rcfped to their own great chiefs. We had obferved at every village, as we ranged along the coaft in the ihlps, one or more elevated white ob- jeds, refembling pyramids, or rather obelilks ; one of which, fuppofed by Captain Cook to be at leaft fifty feet in height, 'was very confpicuous from our anchor- ing Hation, and feeined to be at a finall diilance up this valley. To have a nearer view of it, was the priiidpal motive of our gentlemen's walk. Their guide was ac- (juaiated with tfaeir detirc of being conduifled to it : but it happened to be in fuch a fituation, that they could not f;etat it, the pool of water fep^ating it from them, aowevei, as tiieie was another of the (ome Icind about half V 3^i Cx\PTAlN COOK'S THIIID VOYAGE. ^( lialf a mile diftant, upon their fide of the valley, they • i'ct out to vifit thai. As loon as they reached it, they perceived that it was finiate in a burying-groiind, or . morai, which bore a Oriking reiVmblance, in feveral re- fpciSts, to thofe they had leen at Otaheite and other illands in this ocean. It was an oblong fpace, of con- fiderable extent, environed by a ftone wall, four or five feet high. The inclofed fpace was loofely paved ; and, at one end of it, was placed the obelifk or pyramid, call- ed by the natives henanamo^ which was an exa lible to windward; notwithftanding which, at noon, our fhip was three leagues to leeward. As we ap^ proached the weft end, we found that the coaft round- ed gradually to the N. E. without forming a cove, or creek, wherein a vefFel might be fheltered from the vio- lence of the fwell, which, rolling in from the north- ward, broke againft the ihore in an amazing furf : all hopes, therefore, of meeting with a harbour here, foon vaniilied. Many of the natives, in their canoes, follow- ed us as we ftood out to fea, bartering various articles. As we were extremely unwilling, notwithftanding the fufpicious circumftance of the preceding day, to believe that thefe people were cannibals, we now made fome further enquiries on this fubjedt A fmall inftrument of wood, befet with ftiark's teeth, had been purchafed ; which, as it refembled the faw or knife made ufe of by the favages of New Zealand to diflTe^^ the bodies of their enemies, was fufpe£bed by us to be employed here for the fame purpofe. One of the illanders being queftion- ed on this pomt, informed us, that the iuftrumentabove- mentionecl ferved the purpofe of cutting out the fleihy part of the belly, when any perfon was (lain. This ex- plained and confirmed the circumftance before related, of the man's pointing to his belly. The native, how^ ever, from whom we now received this intelligence, being afked whether his countrymen eat the part thuat fqt out, ftrongly denied it } but, when the queftion was CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRJ> VOYAGE. ^^ repeated, he (hewed fomc degree of apprehenfion, and iWam on to his canoe. An elderly man, who fat fore-t mod ill the canoe, was then alked whether they eat the ilelh ; and he anlwered in the afnrmative. Tne ques- tion being put to him a fccond time, he agsdn afRrmed the faA ; adding, that it was favoury food. The boats returned about feven o'clock in the evcn-> ing, with a few hogs, fome plantains and roocs» and two tons of water. Mr King reported to the Commo- dore, that the iflanders were very numerous at the wa- tering place, and had brought great numbers of hogs to barter ; but our people had not commodities with £ein adequate to the purchafe of them all. He alfo incntionecl, that the furf had run fo very high, that it was vrith extreme difficulty our men lanacd, and after- wards got back into the boats. On Saturday the 24th, at day-break, we found that our fhip had been carried by the currents to the N. W. and N. fo that the weftern extremity of Atooi bore E. at the diflance of one league. A northerly breeze fprung up foon after, and Captain Cook expe^ing that this would bring the Difcovery to fea, fteered for Onee- heow, a neighbouring iflana, which then bore S. \V. with a view of anchormg there. He continued to lleer for it till pail eleven, at which tiiiie he was at the dif^ lance of about fix miies from it. But not feeing the )ilbovery, he was apprehenfive left fome ill confe- uence might arife from our feparating fo far ; he there- ore relinquifhed the defign ofviliting Oneeheowfor or the prefent, and ftood back to Atooi, intending to ;a(l anchor again in the road, in order to complete our upply of water. At two o'clock, the northerly wind was (uccceded by calms and variable light airs, which {)ntinued till eleven at night. We ftretched to the S. Ltill early in the morning of the 25th, when we tack- d and ftood in for Atooi road ; and, not long after, we. mt joined by the Difcovery. Wc were utterly un- ible to regain the road ; and, by the morning of the 9th, the currents had carried us to the weft ward, with- m •s T" 370 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. in nine or ten miles of Oneeheow. Weary with plying {o unfuccefsfully, Captain Cook laid afide all thoughts of returning to Atooi, and refumed his intention of paying a vint to Oneeheow. With this view, he dif- patched the mafter in a boat, to found along the coaft, and fearch for alanding place,and afterwards irefli water. In the mean time, the (hips followed under an eafy fail. The mafter, at his return, reported, that there was toler- able anchorage all along the coail ; and that he had land- ed in one place, but could hot find any frefh water. Captain Cook being informed by fome of the natives, who had come off to the (hips, that freQi water might be obtained at a village which we faw at a little diftance, ran down^ and caft anchor before it, about fix furlongs from the (bore, the depth of water being twenty-fix fathoms. The Dilcovery anchored at a greater diftance from the fhore, in twenty-three fathoms. The ibutli- eaftern point of Oneeheow bore S. 65 d. E. about one league diftant ; and another ifland which we had dif-^ j covered the preceding night, named Tahoora, bore S. 61 d. W. at the didance of feven leagues. Before we anchored, feveral canoes had come off to us, bringing potatoes, yams, and fmall pigs,'befides mats. The peo- ple who were in them refembled in their perfons the mhabitants of Atooi ; and, like them, were acquainted with the ufe of iron, which they afked for by the names I eitoe and hamaite, readily parting with all their comnKKJ dities for pieces of this metal. Some more canoes looni reached our (hips, after they had come to anchor ; buti the iflanders who were in ihefe had apparently no otherl objedt, than to make us a fornial vifit. Many of themj came on board, and crouched down upon the deck ; noij did they quit that humble pofture, till they were reJ quefted to rife. Several women, whom they had broughfl with them, remained alongfide in the canoes, behaving with much lefs modefty than the females of Atooil and, at intervals, they all joined in a fong, which, thouglj not very melodious, was performed in the exa£left conj cert, by beating time upou their breafts with theif ^ i , • hands CAPTAIN COOK'» THIRD VOYAGE. 57«' hands. The men who had come on board did not con- tinue long with us ; and before their departure, feme of them deiired permiHion to lay down locks of their hair on the deck. The curious enquiry, whether thefe iflanders were cannibals, was this day t?newed ; and the fubje^t did not arife from any queftions put by us, but from a cir- cumftance that feemed to remove all doubt. One of the natives, who wifhed to get in at the gun- room port, was refufed; and he then afked, whether we; ihould kill and eat him, if he fhould come in ? accom- panying this queftion with figns fo expreifive, that we did nor entertain a doubt witti refpedt to his meaning. We had now an opportunity of retorting the queftion as to this practice ; and a man behind the other in ihc canoe, inftantly replied, that, if we were killed on (hore, they would not fcruple to eat us : not that he meant they would deftroy us for that purpofe, but that their devouring us would be the confequence of our being at enmity with them. Mr Gore was fcnt in the afternoon, with three armed boats, in fearch of the moft commodious landing-place; being alfo direded to look for frelh water when he fhould get on (hore. He returned in t'.e evening, and reported to Captain Cook, that he had landed at the village above-mentioned, and had been concluded to a well about half a mile up the country ; but that the water which it contained was in too Imall a quantity for our purpofe, and the road that led to it was extremely bad. The next day Mr Gore was Tent alhore a^ain, with a guard, and ai>arty to trade with the inhabitants for refreftiments. The Commodore^s intention was to have followed foon afterwards; and he went from .the Ihip with that defign. But the iurf had fo greatly in- creafed by this time, that he was appreheniive, if he got alhore, he fhould not be able to make his way back again. This circumilance really happened to our peo- ple who had landed with Mr Gore ; for the communi- cation between them and the (hips, by our own boats, Vol. II — N'»3s. 3 A wai SI* CA!»TAIN COOK'S THlRt) VOYAGE. was quickly (lopped. They made a fignal, in the even- ing, for the boats, which were accordinp;ly fent ; and, in a ihort time afterwards, returned with fome good fait and a few yams. A confiderable quantity of both thefe reticles had been obtained in the courfe of the day ; but the furf was fo exeeedingly high, that the greateft part of both had been loft in bringing thern off to the boats. The officer and twenty men, not venturing to run the rifque of coming off, remained all night on fhore; by which unfortunate circumftance, the very thing happened which Captain Cook, as we have al- ready related, fo eagerly wimed to prevent, and imagin- ed he had effe£lually guarded againft. The violence of the furf did not deter the natives from coming off in canoes to oui* (hips. They brought with them lome refrefhments, for which he gave thenij in exchange, fome nails, and pieces of iron hoops ; and we diftributed among the women in the canoes, many pieces of ribbon, and fome buttons, as bracelets. Some of the men had reprefentations of human figures pundured upon their breafts^ and one of them had a lizard reprefented. Thefe vintants acquainted us, that there was no chief of this ifland, but that it was fubjed to one of the chiefs of Atooi, whofe name was Teneooneoo. Among other articles which they now brought off to U8, was a fmall drum, that had a great re- femblance to thofe of Otaheite. Between ten and eleven o'clock at night, the wind j became foutherly, and the Iky feemed to indicate an| approaching ftorm. In confequence of thefe thr \ten- ing appearances, Captain Cook, thinking that we were I rather too near the {hore,caufed the anchors to be taken iit> • and the (hips being carried into fortv-two fathomsj Water, came to again in that more fecure nation. This,! however, proved an unneceffary precaution ; for thej wind, not long after, veering to N. N. E. blew a fi:eih| gale, with fc^ualls, and violent Ihowers of rain. Thij Weather contmued for the whole fucceding day, during which the fea ran fo high, that all communication witt pi CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 373 our party on fhore was totally intercepted, and the iflanders themfelves would not venture out to the (hips in their canoes. Toward^ the evening, the Commodore fent the Mafter in a boat to the S. E. point of the ifland, to try whether he could land in that quarter. He re- turned with a favourable report ; but it was now too late to fend for our party till the following morning : fo that they were obliged to ftay another night on Ihore. On the appearance of day-light, a boat wavS difpatthed to the S. E. point, with orders to Lieutenant Gore, that, if he could not embark his peoole from the fpot where they at prefent were, he (hould march them up to the point. The boat being prevented from getting to the beach, one of the crew Iwam to fliore, and communi- cated the inftru6:ion8. After the boat had returned, Captain Cook went himfelf with the launch and pin- nace up to the point, in order to bring off our party from the land. He took with liim three goats, one of them a male, and the others female ; a young boar and few of the Englilh breed ; and all the Iceds of onions, pumpkins, and melons. He landed with great pafe, under the weft fide of the point, where he found hi& party, in company with fome of the natives. To one of tnefe, who affumed fome degree of authority over the reft, he gave the goats, pigs, and feeds. He intend- ed to have left thefe ufeful prefents at Atooi, if we had not been fo unexpedtedly driven from that ifland. While our people were employed in filling fome water cafksjfrom a little ftream which the late rains had occa- fioned. Captain Cook made a fhort excurfion into the country, accompanied by the iflander above-mentioned, and followed by two others who carried the two pigs. When they haa arrived upon a riling ground, the Cap» tain ftopped to look around him, and immediately op- feryed a woman, on the oppofite fide of the valley ia which he had landed, calling put to her ccuntrymeii who attended him. Upon this the man who a<^ed a^ chief began to mutter fomething, as if he was praying : uid the two beards of the pigs contiaiied walking rounq 3 A 2 tht 574 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. the Captain all the time, making about a dozen circiiiti before the other had made an end of his oraifon. Thia ftrange ceremony being performed, they proceeded on their walk, and met people coming from all quarters, who, upon being called to by the Captain's attendants, fell proftrate on their faces, till he was out of fight. The ground over which he palfed, though it was unculti- vated and very ftony, was covered with plants and fhrubs, fome of which perfumed the air with the moft delicious fragranc . . Our party who had been xJetained fo long on (liore, found, in thofe parts of the ifland which they had tra- verfed, fev^ral fait ponds, fome of which had a fmall quantity of water remaining, but others had none. They law no appearance of a running ftream ; and though, in fome imall wells which they met with, the frelh water was pretty good, ir feemed to be fcarce. The houfes of the natives were thnly fcattefed about ; and it was fuppofed, that there were not more than five hundred perfons in the whole ifland. The method of living among thefe people was decent and cleanly. No inllance was obferved of the men and women eating together ; and the latter feemed in general to be affo- ciated in companies by themfelves. The oily nuts of the dooe dooe are burned by thefe iflanders for lights during the night ; and they drefs their hogs by baking thenl in ovens, fplitting the carcafes through the whole length. Our people met with a fufficient proof of the exigence of the taboo among them ; for one woman was employed in feeding another who was under that interdidtion. Several other myfterious ceremonies were alfo obferv^; one of which was performed by a woman, who thre^ip pig into the furf and drowned it, and then tied up % Siiindle of wood, which (he dilpofed of in the like manner. The fame female, at another time, beat a man's fhoulders with a ftick, aft^r he had feated him- fdf for that purpofe. An extraortlinary veneration feemed to be paid here to owls, which they keep very tame. It appeared to be a pretty general pra^ice among them, CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 37J on fliorc, ' had tra- il a fmall ad none, am ; and with, the rce. The ►out ; and than five method of inly. No icn eating o be affo- ly nuts of for lights ly baking Ithe whole [oof of the iC woman nder that mies were r a woman, ^, and then of in the time, beat sated him- ^eneration [keep very lice aimong them, them, to pull out one of their teeth ; and when they were afked the reafon of this remarkable cuftom, the only anfwer they gave was, that it was teeha ; which was alfo the realon afligned by them for giving a lock of their hair. After our water cafks had been filled, and fome roots, fait, and faked fifli, had been purchafed from the na- tives, Captain Cook returned on board with all his peo- ple, intending to make another vKit to the ifland the next day. But, about feven in the evening, the anchor of the Refolution ftarted, fo that (lie drove off the bank, JBy this accident, we found ourfelves, at day-break the next morning, which was the 2d of February, nine miles to the leeward of our lafl ftation ; and the Captain forefeeing that it would require more time to regain it than he chofe to employ, made the fignal for the Dif- covery to weigh anchor and join us. This juhdlion was effedted about noon ; and both fhips immediately diredted their courfe to the northward, in profecution of their voyage. Thus, after we had fpent more time in the neighbourhood of thefe iflands than was neceffary to have anfwered all our purpofes, we were obliged to quit them before we had completed our flock of water, or procured from them fuch /i plentiful fupply of re* freftiments as the natives were both able and willing to have furnilhed us with. Our (hip, however, obtained from them provifions that laded at* leaft three weeks y and Captain Clerke, morfe fortunate than we were, ac- quired fuch a quantity of vegetables, as fufRced the Dis- covery's people upwards of two months. . The obfervations which Captain Cook was enabled to make on thefe iflands, comDined with thofe of Mr I Anderfon, whofe abilities and afliduity rendered him a very ufeful afliftant on fuch occafions, vrill fupply ma,- terials for the following chapter. 9lf CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOTAGJ; Sifuation of the (/lands now difcovered by tu — The- Name ef Sandwich I/lands given to the whole Group Atooi particularly defer ibed — Its Soil — Climate — Vegetable Pro- duce-^Birds — Fijh — Domejiic Animals — 'the Perfon and Difpqfition of the Natives — EJlimate of their Number — Their Drefs and Ornaments — Houfes-^Food-^Mode cf Cookery — « — Diverfions~-^Mu/ical Inftrumsnis — Manufac* tures — Tools^^Their Acquaintance with Iron accounted for^^Tbcir Canoes defcribed — Agriculture — Accormt 6f we of their Chiefs^ who vifited Captain Clerke — Their Weapons — Affinity between their Manmrs and thofe oj the Society and Friendly IJIanders-^Their Language--*', Advantageous Situation of the Sandwich Ifles, THE iflands in the Pacific Ocean, which have been difcovered in the courfe of our late voyages, have been generally found fituate in groups ; the iingje in- termediate iiles hitherto met with, being few in proper- tioii to the refl ; though, in ali probability, there are mapy more of them yet unknown, which ferve as gra- dations or fteps between the feveral clufters. Of what I number thefe new-difcovered Archipelago is compofed,! niuft be left to the decifion of future navigators. We obfer>^ed five of them, whofe names are Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow, Oreehoua, and Tahoora. The laft of thefe [ , a fmall elevated ifland, at the diftance of four or five leagues from the S. E. point of Oneeheow. We were informed, that it abounds with birds, which are its folej inhabitants. We alfo gained ibme intelligeace with re- gard! ^ CAPTAIN' COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. fit gard to the exigence of a low uninhabited ifland in the neighbourhood, named Tammata-pappa. , Betides thefe fix, we were told that there were lome other iflandt both to the eaftward and weftward. Captain Cook dit* tinguiftied the whole group by the name of the Sand wicli Iflands, in hohour of the harl of Sandwich, Thofc which he faw are fituated between the latitude of 2 1 d. 30 m. and 22 d. 15 m. N. and between the longitude of 199 d. 20 m, and 201 d. 30 m, E. With refped to Woahoo, the moft cafterly of thefe Iflands, feen by us, we could ^et no other iniormation^ but that it is high land, and is inhabited. Oneeheow, concerning which fome particulars have been already mentioned, lies feven leagues to the well- ward of our anchoring place at Atooi, and does not ex- ceed fifteen leagues in circumference. Yams are its , principal vegetable produdion. We procured fome fait ^ here, called by the natives patai^ which is produced ia faJt ponds. With it they cure both fifh and potk ; and fome fait fifh, which we purchafed from them, were extremely good, and kept very well. This ifland is chiefly low land, except the part oppofite Atooi, which rifes immediately from the fea to a confiderablc height ; 18 does alfo its S. E. point, which terniinatcs in a round Of Oreehoua we know no other particulars than that it is an elevated ifland, of fmall extent, lying clofe to the north fide of Oneeheow. Atooi, which is the largefl; of thofc we faw, being the principal fcene of our operations, we Ihall now proceed to lay before our readers fuch information as we were able to colledt concerning it. From what we obfcrved of it, it is, at leaft:^ ten leagues in length from E. to W» from whence its circumference may nearly be gueff^, I though it appeared to be much broader at the eall than at the welt point* The road, or anchoring place, which lour veflTels occupied, is on the S. W. fide of the ifland, about two leagues from the W. end, before a village I named Wymoa. As far as we founded, we found the bank S7« CAPTAIN COOK'a THIRD VOTAGE. bank free from rocks ; except to the eaflward of the ▼illagei where there projects a (hioal, on which are fbme rocks and breakers. This road is fomewhat ex- pofed to the trade wind ; notwithftanding which defed^, It is far from being a bad ilation, and greatly fuperior to thofe which neceffity continually obliges (hips to ufe, in countries where the winds are not only more varia- ble, but more boiilerous ; as at Madeira, Teneriife, the Azores, &c. The landing too is not fo difficult as at moft of thofe places ; anil, unlefs in very bad weather, is alv/ays pra^icable. The water in the neighbour- hood is excellent, and may be conveyed with eafe to the boats. But no wood can be cut at any convenient diflance, unlefs the iflanders could be prevailed upon to part with the few etooa trees (for that is the name they give to the cordia febaji'tna ) that grow about their vil-, lages, or a fpecies called dooe dooe^ which grows farther up the country. The land does not in the leaft refemble, in its general appearance, any of the iflands we have vifited within the tropic of Capricorn ; if we except its hills near the centre, which are high, but flope gcidually towards the fea, or lower lands. Though it prefents not to the view the delightful borders of Otaheite, or the luxuriant plains of Tongataboo, jcovered with trees, whicji at once af- ford a (helter'from the fcorching rays, of the fun, a beau- tiful profpeiSt to the eye, and food for the natives ; yet its pofTefiing a greater portion of gently rifing land, renders it, in fome degree, fuperior to the above-men- tioned favourite iflands, as being more capable of im- provement. The height of the land within, and the number of clouds which we faw, during the whole time of our continuance, hanging over it, and not un- frequeptly on the other parts, feem to indicate that there is a fufficient fupply of water, and that there are fome running dreams which we had not an opportunity of feeing, particularly in the deep vallles,at the entrance of { which the vailies are, in general, fituated. The ground, from the wooded part to che fea, is covered with an ex- cellent i ird of the vhich are iwhat ex- ich defed, ^ fuperior lips to ufc, lore varia- leriiFe, the Hcult as at 1 weather, icighbour- ith eaie to jonvenient liled upon name they their vil-. >ws farther Its general ted within Is near the owards the to the view riant plains at otice af- 'un,abeau- atives; yet ifing land, hove-men- ible of im- (i, and the the whole ind not un- e that there ■e are fome, lortunity of entrance of I 'he ground, with an ex- cellent iX. .4! Z-'i t ■Vi ^•*ii:: 'mc W ^ rJ^ •^ r^«v^" M, HIH nil 1 ' '' Hm ffn^H^^^HI ^^H i I I'll I- BLw''"''-' ■ill I .« r?r Itf ov '3S'v ;S flili'llli! i''iii III WW: iii!::l'ir ^ f* ^ 1 1^ ^ CAPTAIN COOIV& THIRD VOYAGE. S79 Cellent kind of gr^fs, about two feet in height, which fotnetimes grows in tufts, and appeared capable of be- ing converted into abundant crops of fine liay. But on this extenfive fpace not even a fhrub grows natu- rally. In the narrow valley leading to the morai, the foil is of a dark brown colour, rather loofe ; but, on the high ground, it is of a reddifli brown, more ftifF and clayey* It is probably the fame all over the cultivated parts ; for what adhered to Ynoft of the potatoes that we purchafe<}, which, doubtlefs, came from very different fpots, was of this fort. Its quality, however, may be better eflimated from its produdlons, than from its appearance. For the vale, or moifl ground produces taro^ much larger than any we had ever feen ; and the more elevatecj ground furnilhes fweet potatoes, that feldom weigh lefs than two or three pounds, and frequently weigh ten, and fometimes a dozen or fourteen pounds. Were we to judge of th^ qlimate from oar experi- ence, it might be faid to be very variable ; for, accord- ing to the general opinion, it was, at this time, the fea- Ibn of the year when the weather is fupnofed to be the moft fettled, the fun being at his greareft annual diA tance. The heat was now very moderate ; and few of thofe inconveniencies to which many countries lying within the tropics arc fubjedt, either from heat or moil- tiire, feem to be experienced here. Nor did we find any dews of confequence ; a circumftance which may partly be accounted for, by the lower part of the coun- try being deftitute of trees. The rock that conititutes tlie (ides of the valley, is a dark grey ponderous ftone ; but hone-combed, with fome fpots of a rufty colour, and (pme very minute ftiining particles interfporled. It is of iin immenfe depth, and feems to be divided into Jlrata^ though no- thing is interpofed ; for the large pieces always broke oiFto a determinate thick nei's, and did not appear to have adhered to thofe tl^at were below them. Other ftones are, in all probability, much more various thau Vol. II, N«. 36. ^ 3 B ia M 'ill 'il , ^mmm %U CAPTAIN COOK't THIRD VOTAGK. in the fouthern iflands. For, during the (hort time we remained here, befides the iapis lydiw^ we found a fpe- cies of cream-coloured whetftcne, fometimes variegated with whiter or blacker veins, like marble ; and com- mon writing flate, as well as fome of a coarfer fort ; and the natives brought us fome pieces of a coarfe whitifh pumice (lone. We alfo procured a brown fort ofbama- fitesy which, from its being ftrongly attracted b^ the magnet, difcovered the quantity of metal it contained. What we faw of tlus was cut artiiiciallyi as were alfo the flates and whetftones. Befides the vegetables purchafed by us as refrefh- ments, among which were, at lead, five or fix varieties of plantains, the ifland produces bread fruit : this, how- ever, feems to be fcarce, as we only faw one tree of that fpecies. There are alfo a few cocoa palnis j fome yams; the kappe of the Friendly Iflands, or Virginian arum; the etooa tree, and odoriferous gardenia^ or cape ja/mine. We met with fcveral trees of the dooe dooe^ that bear the oily nuts, which are ftuck upon a kind of fkewer, and made ufe of as candles. Our people faw them ufed in the lame manner at Oneeheow, We were not on (here at Atooi except in the day time, and then we obferved the iflanders wearing thefe nuts, hung on firings, round their necks. There is a fpecies oiftda^ or Indian mal- low ; alfo the morinda citrifolia^ which is here called none ; a fpecies of convovulns ; the ava, or intoxicating pepper, befides great quantities of gourds. Thefe laft grew to a very large fize, and are of a remarkable vari- ety of (hapes, which are, perhaps, the efFedl of art. Upon the dry fand, about the village, grew a plant, that had never been ittn by us in this ocean, of the fize of a common thifllc, and prickly ; but bearing a fipe flower, greatly refembling a white poppy. The fcarlet birds, which were brought for fale, were never met with alive ; but we (aw one fmall one, about the fize of a canary bird, of a deep crimfon colour. We alfo faw a large owl, two brown hawks, or kites, and a wild duck. We heard from the natives the names of ibme CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 381 1 a fpe- iegatcd d com- >rt;and whitifh by the ntained. (rere alfo refrefli- varieties ii8,how- :e of tliat neyams; in arum; )ej a/mine* t bear the wer, and [n ufed in : on (here : obferved gs, round dlan mal- ;re called oxicating _ xfe laft [able vari- of art. jlant, that [he fize of ig a fipc (ale, were [ne, about U We lites, anhole, however, they are far from being ugly, and have, I all appearance, few natural deformities of any kind. Itir flciQ is not very foft, nor (hining 5 but their eyes ^82 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. and teeth are, for the moft part, pretty good. Their hair, in general, is ftraight ; and thougn its natural co- lour is utually black, they (lain it, as at the Friendly and other iflanJs. We perceived but few inftances of cor- pulence, and thefe more frequently among the wortien than the men ; but it was prmcipally among the latter, that perfonal defedts were obferved ; thougn, if any of them can lay claim to a fliare of beauty, it appeared to be moft confpicuous amongft the young men. They are a:dlive, vigorous, and moft expert fwim- TO.cn ; leaving their canoes upon the moft frivolous oc* tafion, diving under them^ and fwimmin^ to others, though at a tonfiderable diftadce. We have frequent- ly feen women, with infants at their breaft, when the fiirf w^as fo high as to prevent their landing in the ca-» iiotSy leap overboard, and fwim to the fliore, without endangering their little ones. ^ They appear to Ls of a frank, chearfiil difpofitioo j aftd are equally free from the tickle levity which charac^ terizes the inhabitants of Otaheite, and the fedate caft which is obfervable among many of thofe of Tongata*- boo. They feem to cultivate a fociable intercourfe with each other ; and, except the propenfity to thieving) w'hich is, as it were, innate in moft of the people we hav^ y ill ted iti thefe fe^s, they were extremely friendly to us. And it does no fmall credit to their fenfibility, without fiattering- ourfelvf^s, that when they faW the different articles of our European manufacture, they ceuld not refrain from expi effing tiieir aftoni{hmetit,()y| ;i mixture cjt'joy and concern, that feemed to apply tlic, cafe as a leflbn of humility to themfelves ; and, on evqiy occafion, they appeared to have a proper conlcioulndsl of their own inferiority ; a behaviour that equally ex-j etnpts thrir ticsticnal charad^t from the ridicwlous prulel cf the more poIlCh^d Japanefe, and of the ruder native! cf Greenland. It was pieafmg to obferve with wha^ ,.f-| fedion the women managed their infants, and wijt what alacrity the men contributed their affiftance ir fucl^ 3k tender i$ce]; tl^us diftin;;; aiihing themrcives CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 3«3 from thofs favages, who confider a wife and child as things rather necefiTary, than defirablc, or worthy of their regard and efteem. From the numbers that we faw aflembled at every village, as we coafted along, it may be conjed:ured,that the inhabitants of this ifland are pretty numerous. In- ckiding the ftragglihg houlcs, there might perhaps be, in the whole ifland, fixty fuch villages as that near which our ihips anchored ; and if we allow five peHons to each houfe, there would be in every village, five hun- dred ; or thirty thouiand upon the ifland. This num- ber is by no means exaggerated, for there were fome- times three thouiand people, at leaft, colleded upon the beach ; when it could not be fuppofed, that above a tenth part of the natives were preient. The ordinary drefs of both fexes has been already defcribed. The women have often much larger pieces of cloth wrapped about them, extending from juft below the breafts to the hams, and fometimes lower ; and feveral were obferved witti pieces thrown loofely over their fliouldcrs, which covered the greateft part of the body ; but the children, when very young, are entirely nakedL They wear nothing upon the head; but the hair, both of men and wooien, is cut in various forme; and the general faflxion, particularly among the latter, is to have it fl-.ort behind, and long before. The mca freqaently had it cut on each fide in fuch a manner^ that the remaining part fomewhat refembled the creft of their caps or helmets, before mentioned. Both fexes, however, ieemed to be very carelefs about their hair, and had no combs, nor any thing of the kind, to drefs it with, The men ibmetimes twifl it into a numbct of feparate parcels, like the tails of a wig, each about as thick as a finger ; though moft of thefe, which are fo long as to reach far down the back, are artificially fixed upon the head, over their own hair. Contrary to the general pradlice of mofl: of the iflands of the Pacific Ocean, the people of the Sandwich Ifles teve not their ears perforated, nor do they wear any wmm 384 CAPTAIN COOK'» THIRD VOYAGE. ornaments in them. Both men and women, however, adorn themfelves with necklaces compofed of bunches of fmall black cord, like our hat-firing, often above a hundred-fold 5 entirely refembling thole we faw worn | at V/ateeoo, except that, inftead of the two little balls on the middle before, they fix a fmall piece of wood, flcne, or fhell, about two inches in lengtfi, with a broad hook, well polifhed. They have alfo necklaces of many ftririgs of very fmall fhells, or of the dried flowers of the Indian mallow ; and they fometimes hang round their necks a fmall human figure of bone, about the lene;th of three inchef?. The women likewife wear bracelets ci' a lingle fliell, pieces of Wack wood, with bits of ivory jnterfperfed, and neatly poliftied, faflened together by a ftiif^55 drawn clofely through them ; or others of hogs teeth, placed parallel to each other, with the concave part c^utward, and the points cut off; fome of which, formed only of large boar's tufks» are very elegant The men fometiriies fix on their heads plumes of feathers of tl\e tropic bird ; or thofe of cocks, faflened round neat polifhed flicks, two feet in length ; and, for the fame purpofe, they tew the fkin of a white dog's tail over a ftick, with its tuft at the erku. They alfo, not unfre- quently, wear on the head a kind of ornament, of the thicknels of a finger, or more, covered with yellow and red feathers, curioufly varied, and tied behind ; and, on that part of the arm which is above the elbow, a fort of broad ihell-work, grounded upon net-work. The men fometimes pundlure themfelves upon their hands or arms, and near the groin ; but frequenriy we faw no marks at all ; though a few iiidividuals had more of this fpecies of ornament than we had ufually feen at other places, and curioufly executed in a great variety of lines and figures, on the arms and fore part of the body. Contrary to the cuflom of the Friendly and Society Iflands. they do not flit, or cut off, any part of the prepuce ; but have it univcrfally drawn over the glans, and tied with a firing. Thcro CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. S«^ , however, >f bunches in above a faw worn I little balls of wood, th a broad ss of many vers of the Dund their the lencjth ir bracelets its of ivory jether by a rs of hogs le concave of which, ;ant The feathers of round neat r the fame tail over a not unfrc' mt, of the rellow and and, on a fort of ipon their uently we had more lly feen at lat variety lart of the |ndly and y part of over the Thcro There is no appearance of defence, or fortificationv near any of their villagLS, and the houfes are fcattered about, without the leaft order. Some of thefe habita- tions are large and commodious, from forty to fifty feet in length, and twenty or thirty in breadth ; while others of them are contemptible hovels, Their figure refemblei that of hay-ftacks; or, perhaps, a better idea may be con- ceived of :hem, by fuppofing the roof of a barn placed the ground, in fuch a manner, as to form a high. on acute ridge, with tvr leaked in umbers of red ftripciv n one nde, e a part of lo fale, they re others of fpread over tTce^ or cordi a, extremely neat and well polifhed. They likewilb :nake fmall fquare fans of mat or wicker-work, with handles of the fame, or of wood, tapering from them, which are curioufly wrought with fmall cords of hair, and cocoa nur fibres, inteimixed. Their fifhing hooks are ingenioufly made ; fome of bone, many of pearl ihell, and others of wood, pointed with bone. I The bones are for the mod part fmall, and confift of two pieces ; and the various forts have a barb, cither on the infide, Uke ours, or pn the outfide; but others have both, the exterior One being fartheft from the point. Of the latter fort, one was procured, nine inches in length, made of a fmgle piece of bone ; the elegant Iform and polifh of which, coald not be exceeded by lany European artift. They podifli their ftoncs, by con-i Iftant fridion, with pumice ftane in water ; and fuch of {heir tools as we faw, refembled thofe of the fouthem kflanders. Their hatchets, or rather adzes, were cxadt-^ ly of the fame pattern, and were either formed of a blackifh ftone, or of a clay-coloured one. They have ih fmall inftruments compofcd of a fingle (bark'9 jooth, fome of which are fixed to the fere part of the law bone of a dog, and others to a thin wooden han* le of a fimilar fh^^pe ; and at the other end there is a ^it of ftring faftened through a little hole. Thefe ferve ccafionally as knives, and are, probably, ufed ia irvmg. The only iron tools feen among them, and which ey jJoiTeiled before our arrival, were a piece of iroa lOop, about the length of two inches, fitted into a ooden handle ; and another edge-tod, which we fu j)- fed to have been made of the point of a broad fword. eir having the aftual poflf iRon of thefe, and their ing well acquainted with the ufe of this metal, in- lined fome 01 our people to imagine that we were not e firft European vif^ors of thefe iflands. But the — ^ 5^6^^ furprize which they teftifi.ed on feeing our 8andbowl8»Bip8, and their perfedl ignorance of the ufe ot fire-» ~ the etooaBcQs^ cannot be reconciled with fuch an opinion. There trc^l 3 C i \ are h undulated hack colour. It of varnilh- are covered lafions, they tibftance, to ^$o CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. are feveral means by which fuch people may obtain piece? of iron, or acquire the knowledge of the exift- encc of that metal, without having had an immediate connedion with thofe nations that ufe it. It can fcarce- ly be doubted, that it was unknown to all the inhabitants of the Pacific Ocean, till Magellan led the way into it; for no navigator, immediately after his voyage, found any of this metal in their poffeffion; though, in the courfe of our late voyages, it has been remarked, that the ufe of it was known at feveral illands, which no for- mer European veflels had ever, to our knowledge, vifit, ed. At all the places where Mendana touched, during his two voyages, fome of it muft have been left ; and this would, doubtlefs, extend the knowledge of it to all the various iflands with which the people, whom he| vifited, had any immediate intercourfe. It might even have been carried farther; and where fpecimens ofl this valuable article could not be met with, defcriptioiu might in fome degree, ferve to make it known, when afterwards feen. The next voyage to the fouthwardof the equator, in which any intercourfe was had with thcf people who inhabit the iflands, of this ocean, was that] of Quiros, who landed at Sagittaria, the ifland Handfome People, and at.Ticrra del Efpiritu Santo at all which places, as well as at thofe with which th( had any communication, it muft undoubtedly have beei made known. To him fucceeded, in this havigatioi Le Maire, and Schouten, whofe connedioils wuji th| natives began much farther to the eaftward, and terj minated at Cocos and Horn iflands. It is certain, thj th^ inhabitants of Otaheite, and the Society Ifles, had knowledge of iron; and purchafed it with the greatel avidity, when Captain Wallis difcovered Otaheite ; an they could only have acquired this knowledge througj the mediation of thofe neighbouring iflands at whic it had been originally left. They acknowledge, inde( that this was really the cafe ; and they have fince ii formed us, that they held it in fuch eliimation, befoi the anival of Captain Wallis, that an Otaheicean chif thi 4 CAPTAIN C00K»8 THIRD VOYAGE. 39« who had gained pofleffion of two nails, received no fmall emolument, by letting out the ufe of them to his neighbours, for the purpofe of boring holes. The na- tives of the Society Iflahds, whom we found at Wateeoo, had been driven to that place long after the knowledge and ufe of iron had been thus introdu^-ed among their countrymen; and though, perhaps, they had no fpeci- mcn of it with them, they would naturally communicate at that ifland, by defcription, their knowledge of this ufe- ful metal. From the people of Wateeoo, again, thofe of Hervey's Ifland might derive that inclination for it, of which we had fufficient proofs during our ihort inter- courfe with them. The confideration of thefe fa£ts will fhew, how the knowledge of iron has been conveyed throughout the Pacific Ocean, to iflands which have never had an im- mediate connection with Europeans ; and it may eafily be imagined, that, wherever the hiltory of it only has been reported, or a very inconfiderable quantity of it has been left, the greater eagernefs will be Ihewn by the in- habitants to procure plentiful fupplies of it. The ap- plication of thefe particulars, to the objei^ of our prefent confideration, is manifeft. The natives of Atooi and Onee- heow, witljiout ever having been vifited by Europeans before us, might have received this metal from interme-- diate iflands, fituated between them and the Ladroiies, which. the Spaniards have frequented almofl ever fince the period of Magellan's voyage, Or, if the d'.jT'^nt wefiern pofition of the Ladrones, fhould detract from the probability of this folution, is there not the American continent to windward, where the Spaniards have been fettled for upwards of two centuries and. a half ; during which long fpace of time fhipwrecks mufl frequently have happened on its cOafls ? It cannot be deemed fur- prizing, that part of fuch wrecks, con'^aining iron, fhould, by the eafterly trade-winds, be occafionally caft upon fome of thofe iflands which are difperfed about this immenfe ocean. The diflance of Atooi from America, is no ^r^uqaent a^ainfl this fuppofitipn j and even 3f^ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. If-' even if it were, it would not dellroy it. This ocean ie annnaily traverfed by SpaniHi veflels ; and it is highly proba'jle, that, befides the accident of lofing a malt and Its appendages, cafks with iron-hoops, and many other things that contain iron, may fall, or be thrown over- board during fo long a palTage, and thus find their way 'to land, Thefe are not mere conjt(£lu res ; for one of Captain Cook's people adually faw fome wood in a houfe at Wymoa, which he fuppofed to be fir : it was worm-eaten, and the natives informed him, that it had been driven afhore by the waves ; and we had their «wn exprefs tellimony, that they had obtained, from fome place tp the eaftward, the fpecimens of iron found •mong them. From this digre^.v^n (if it can juftly be called fo) let us return to the obfervations made during our continuance •t Atooi, The canoes of thefe people are commonly ftboutfourand twenty feet in length,and have the bottom, in general, formed of a fmgle piece of wood, hollowed ©ut to the thicknefsof aninch, or more, and brought to a point at each end. The fides are compofed of three boards, each about an inch thick, nearly fitted and laQied to the bottom.. The extremities, both at head and ftern, are a little elevated, and both are made (harp, fomcwhat refJembling a wedge, but they flatten more abruptly, fo that the two fide-boards join each other, fide by nde, for upwards of a foot. As they feldom exceed a foot and a half in breadth, thofe that go fingle (fo^- they 'fome-- times join them) have out-riggers, which are (liaped and ' fitted with more judgment than any we had before feen. They are rowed by paddles, fuch as we had generally cbfervcd at other iflands ; and fome of them hive a light triangular f lil, extended to a maft and boom. ' The ropes which the" ufe for their boats, and the fmaller cords for their nlhing-tackle, are ftrong, and neatly made. They are by no means novices in the art of agricul^ ture. The vale ground is one continued plantation of Hffo, and fome other articles, which have all the appear- ance of being carefully atteadsi^fio* The potatoe fields, and 4*^ ■ \.A , f t \ V t( tl e( fe N fr( m as foi be pr( *oi j'«if for the us, the pro the nat( afra cam illan vifi off Frie char with itwi they iiece CAPTAtN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. S93 and fpots of fugar-cnnc, or plantains, on the bip;licr grounds, are planted with p/eat regulariry j but neithtr thcfe, nor the others, are encloi'ed with any fence, unlcis we confider the ditches in the lew grounds aa fuch; which, it is more probable, arc defigned to convey water to the taro. The great quantity and excellence of tbefc articles, may perhaps he as much owing to {Itilful cul- ture, as natural fertility of foil, which feems l)etter adapt- ed to them than to bread fruit and cocoa nut trees ; the few we faw of thefe latter not being in a thriving liatc. Notwithftanding this lliill in agriculture, the ifland, from its general appearance. Teemed to be capahk of more extenfive improvement, and of maintaining thrioe as many inhabitants as are now upon it ; for the greater part of it, that now lieswafte, was apparently as good a foil as thofe parts that are cultivated. It mull tliercforc be inferred, that thefe people do not incre fe in tlial proportion, which would render it neceflary for them *o take advantage of the extent of their ifland, towardf inlfing a greater quantity of its vegetable produdionf for their maintenance. Though Captain Cook did not fee a chief of any note, there were, however, feveral, as the iflanders informed us, who relide at Atooi, and to whom they proftratc themfelves as a mark of homage and refped. This proftration feems equivalent to the moe moea, paid to the chiefs of the Friendly Iflands, and is here denomi- nated hamoea, or moe. Whether the'' were, at tirrt, afraid to (hew ihemfelves, or happfcned to be abfent, we cannot determine ; but after the Refolution had left the ifland, one of thefe great men made his appearance, and vifited Captain Clence on board the Difcovery ; he came off in a double canoe ; and, like the fovereign of the Friendly Ifles. paid no regard to the fmall canoes that chanced to.be in his way, but ran againft, or over them, without making the leaft attempt to avoid them. And it was impoffible for thefe poor people to avoid him, for they could not then manage their canoes ; it being a Aeceflary mark of their fubmiffion, that they ihould lie dowd 3>"4 CAPTAIN COOX's THIRD VOYAGE. down till he had pafTed. His attendants aflifted him in getting on board the fliip, and placed him in the gang^ way, where they ftood round hifti, holding each other by the hands : nor would they fuffer any one to ap- proach him but Giptain Gierke himfelf. He was a young man, apparelled from head to foot, and was accompanied by a young woman, who was perhaps his wife. His name was faid to be Tamahano. Captain Gierke having made him fome prefents, received from him, in return, a large bowl, fupporttd by two figures of men, the carving of which diiplayed fome degree of fkill, both with refped to the deiign and the execution. This bowl ufed to be filled with the kava, or ava, {as it is termed at Otaheite) which liquor is prepared and drank here as at the other iflands of the Pacific Ocean. Gaptain Gierke could not prevail upon this chief to go below, nor to move from the fpot where his attendants had firft placed him. After remaining fome time in the fhip, he was carried back into nis canoe, and returned to the ifland. The following day, feveral meiTages were fent to Gaptain Gierke, inviting him to return the vilit on (hore, and giving him to underftand, that the chief had prepared a confiderable prefcnt for the occafioa ; but the Gaptain being anxious to get out to fea, and join the Refolution, did not thmk proper to iiccept of the invitation. The ihort and imperf<:£l intercourfe we had with the natives, did noi enable us to form any accurate judgment of the form ofgovetnment ^ftablilhed amongftthem; but from the general fimilarity of cuftoms, and particular- ly from what we obferved or the honours paid to their chiefs, it feems reafonable to imagine, that it is of the fame nature with that which prevails in all the iflands we had hitherto vifited ; and, in all probability, their wars among themfelves are equally frequent. This, indeed, might be inferred, from the number of weapons which we found in their pofTeffion, and from the ex- cellent order in which they kept them. But we had proofs of the fad from their own confsflion ; and, as ■ wcl CAPTAIN G00K*8 THIRD VOYAGE. 39J ed him in the gang- ach other ne to ap- rle was a , and was »erhaps his , Captain jived from 3 figures of t degree of execution, r ava, \a8 it spared and :ific Ocean, chief to go 3 attendants ; time in the returned to iffages were irn the vilit lat the chief 10 occafion; fea, and join tcept of the we wefe informed, thefe wars are carried on between the different difirid:s of their own ifland, as well as oe-^ tw:en it and the neighbouring inhabitants of the iflesof Oneeheow and Oreehoua. We fcarcel^' need aflign any other caufe befides this, to account for the appearance, befcre-mentioned, of their population not being pro- portioned to the extent of their ground that is capable of cultivation. Befides their fpears, formed of a fine brcwnifh wood, beautifully polimed, fome of which are barbed at one end, and flattened to a point at the other, they have a kind of weapon which we had never met with before. It fomewhat refembles a dagger, and is, in general, about eighteen inches in length ; (harpened at one or both ends, and fecured* to tne hand by a ftring. Irs ufe is to ftab in clofe combat, and it feems well adapted to that purpofe. Some of thefe may be denominated double daggers, having a handle in the middle, with which they are the better enabled to ftrike different ways. They have llkewife bows and arrows ; but, both from their flender conftruftion, and their apparent icarcity, it is probable that they never make ufe of them in battle. The knife or faw, already mentioned, with which they diffedt the dead bodies of their enemies, may alfo be ranked among their weapons, as they both ftrike and cut with it when engaged in clofe fight. It is a fmall flat wooden inftrument, about a foot in length, cf an oblong fliape, rounded at the corners ; its edges are furroundcd with (harks* teeth ftrongly fixed to ir, and pointing outwards ; and it has generally a hole in the handle, through which paiTes a long fl:rmg, xvhich they wrap feveral times round the wrift:. We alfo con- jedured, that they ufe flings on fome occafions ; for wc procured fome pieces of the haematites or blood ftone, artificially made of an oval form, longitudinally divided, with a narrow groove in the middle of the convex part. To this, the perfon who had one of them applied a thin cord, but would not difpofe of it, though he was not unwilling to part with the ftone, which, as it weigh- Vol. II.-N'> 36. 3D r cd 39<^ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. ed a pound, muft prove fatal when thrown wi.a fome degree offeree. We like wife faw fome pieces of whet- ilone neatly polifhed, of an oval figure, but fomewhat pointed towards each end ; nea;rly refembling in fliape fome ftones feen by Captain Cook at New Caledonia in 1774, and made ufe of there in flings. As fome of their religious inftitutions, and their method of dif- p.ofmg of their dead, ftrongly indicate an affinity be- tween the manners of thefe people and of the natives of the Friendly and Society Iflands, wc will mention a few particulars that will ferve to place this in a ftriking point of view. The inhabitants of Tongataboo bury their dead with jgreat decency, and they alfo inter their hu- man facrifi'ces ; but they do not, to our knowledge, of- fer any other animal, or even vegetable, to th^ir deities. The Otaheiteans do not inter their dead, but expofe them to wafte by time and putrefadion, though they afterwards bury the bones ; and, this being the cafe, it is remarkable, that they fhould inter the entire bodies of their human facrifices. They alfo offer up, to their fods, other animals and vegetables ; but are far from eing attentive to the condition of the places, where they celebrate thofe folemn rites ; mod of their morals being in a ruinous ftate, and (hewing manifeft tokens of I neglcd. The people of Atooi, again, bury both their common dead, and their human facrifices, as at Ton- 1 gataboo ; but they refemble thofe of Otaheite, in offer- ing vegetables and animals to their gods, and in the | negleded ftatc of f the land, fome funk- akers. lu 33 d. 20 m. 1*50 d. and ed Woody ;.\v. is formed, ping, as he ;vent pror oacbed the ts ; one of ; N. E. cor- and paiTed »e. Haifa nd twenty them, the er in, the ;eft length we were but, being I anchor, ia we began to to be much in need of. As we advanced, however, the cxiftrnce of the inlet no longer remained doubtful. About five o'clock, when we reached the weft point of i% we were becalmed for fome time. In this fituation, the Commodore or^jercd all the boats to be hoilK-d out, in order to tow the (hips in. Prcfently a frelh breeze fprung up at N. W. with which wt flretched up \u*o an firm of the inlet, which ran in to the N. E. Here, we were again becalmed, and found it necefTary to an- chor in eighty-five fathoms water, and lb near the land. as to be able to reach it with a hawfer. The Difcovery was becalmed before (he got within the arm, where flie anchored in feventy fathoms water. As foon as we approached the inlet, we perceived the coall to be inhabited ; and three canoes came off to the Ihip, at the place where we were firft becalmed ; in one |of which were two men, in another fix, and in the I other ten. Advancing pretty near us, a perfon ftood up in one of the two laft, and fpoke for a confiderable time, inviting us, as we fuppofed by his geftures, to go adiore ; and at the fame time, continued Itrewing hand- fuls of feathers towards us. Some of his companion* jalfo thic V a red powder in the fame manner. The perfon who was the orator upon this occafion, ras clothed with the fkin of fome animal, and held fomething in each hand which rattled as he fhook it^ it length, grown weary with his repeated exhortations^ )f which we could not comprehend a word, he became juiet ; and the others, in their turn, had fomething to [ay to us ; but their fpeechcs were neither fo long, nor jb vehement as that of the other. The hair cf two or mree of thefe people was f^ ''ewed over with fmall white feathers ; and that of othert, with large ones, il ick into different parts. The tumultuous noife having ceafcd, they luy at a lall diftance from the (hip, converfiag together with luch eafe and compofure, without fhewlng the leaft dif- "uft or furprize. Some of them role, occafionally, and lid fomething aloud, after the manner of their irfl; ha-. ^an^ues^ 4c8 CAPTAIN COOK's THIRD VOYAGE. rangnes ; and one, in particular, fung a moft agreeable air, accompanied with a great degree of melody and foftnefs; the word haela being frequently repeated as| the burden of the fong. A breeze fpringing up foon after, brought us clofer to | the {hore, when the canoes began to vifit us in great numbers ; having had, at one time, no lefs than thirty, two of them about the Ihip, containing from three to leven or eight perfons each, and of both fcxes. Seve- ral of thefe alio ftood up and fpake aloud, ufmg the fame geftures as our firft vifitors. One canoe particu- iarly attracted our obfervation, by a pcculia;* head, which had a bird's eye, and an enormous large beak, painted on it. The perfon who was in it, and who appeared to be a | chief, was equally remarkable for his fmgular appearance; having a large quantity of feathers hanging from hig head, and b^ii!g painted or fmeared in a very extraordiJ nary manner. In his hand he had a carved bird of wood, of the iize of a pigeon, with which he often ratded,Iike the peribn before- mentioned, and was equally vociferous in his harangue, which was accompaniea with many ex«| preffi ve geftures. Though our vifitors were fo peaceable, that they could not be fufpedted of any houile inten-j tion, not any of them could be prevailed upon to come on board. They were very ready, however, to partj with any thing they had, and received whatever weof«i fered them in exchange ; but were more folicitous after iron, than any of our other articles of commerce ; ap- pearing to be no ftrangers to the ufe of that valuable! iDeral. We w^re followed, by many of the canoes, to curl anchoring place ; and a group, confifling of about ten or a dozen of them, continued alongfide the Refolution| the greateft part of the night. Hence we flattered our- ielves, that we were fo comfortably fituated, as to be able I to get all our wants fupplied, and forget the delays and hardihips we had experienced, in almoft a conftantfuc- ceflion of advcrfe winds and tempefluoua weather, ever] $ru:c cur arrival upon this coaii^ 4rTlvd\ K*- CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 409 Arrival at ihe Sound — Moor in an excellent Harbour-^ V'ifited by great Numbers of the Natives^ who are an inoffenfive Race of People—-Varieiy of Articles brought to barter^ particularly human Skulls — Mifchievous Thefts tommiited-—The Obfervatories ereSled on a Rock — Alfo a Forge ereSled^^Alarmed at feeing the Natives arm them-' fehes-^Di/iant Tribes not permitted by the Natives ta traffic with us — Tempefiuous Weather — A Survey of tlje Sound — Friendly Behaviour of the Natives of one of the Villages Treatment received from an inhofpiiable Chi^ — Greeted with a Song by young Women — A fccond Vifit to one efthe Villages — Grafs pur chafed — Departure of the Ships, . HAVING happily found fuch excellent fhelter for our (hips, in an inlet whofe coafts appeared to be inhabited by an inoffenfive race of people, we loft no time, after coming to anchor, in fearching for a com- modious harbour, where we might be ftationed daring our continuance in the 3ound. Upon this fervice. Captain Cook fent three armed boatSy under the com- mand of Mr King ; and went himfelf in 1 fmall boar, on the fame bufmefs. He had no difficulty in finding what he wanted ; for, on the N. W. of the arm, and at a fmall diftance from the fhips, he found a convenient fnug :ove, perfedly adapted to our purpofe. Mr King was alfo fuccefsful, and found a ftill better harbour, lying on the N. W. fide of the land. It would, however, have required more time to take the fhips thither, thnn to 4TO CAPI'AIN COOlVs THIRD VOYAGE. to the cove where the Captain had been ; therefore hiij thoice was determined in favour of the latter fituation, But, apprehending that we could not tranfport our fhipj to it, and moor them properly, before night had ovcn taken us, he thought it prudent to continue where we were till the next morning. Plenty of canoes, filled with the inhabitants, were about the fliips the whole day j and a reciprocal trade was commenced between us, which was condudei with the ftridtefl: harmony, and integrity on both fides. Their articles of commerce were th^ fkins of various animals ; fuch as bears, fea otters, wolves, foxes, deer, racoons, martins, and pole-cats. They alio produced p;arments made of fkins ; and another kind of clothing, fabricated from the bark of a tree, or a plant refembling hemp. Reiides thele articles, they had bows, arrows, and fpears; fifh hooks, and various kinds of inib'uments; wooden vizors, reprefenting horrid figures ; a fort of woollen ftufF; carved work ; beads ; and red ochre : alio feveral little ornaments of thin brafs and iron, refem- bling an horfe-fhoe, which they wear pendant at their nofes. They had likewife feveral pieces of iron fixed to handles, fomewhat refembling chifTels. From their being in poffefFion of thefe metals, it was natural for us to infer, that they mull either have been vifited before by perfons of fome civilized nation, or had conneiSlions with thofe on their own continent,who had fome com- munication with them. - Among all the articles, liowever^ which they expofed to fale, the molt extraordinary were human Ikulls and hands, with fome of the flefh remaining on them, which they acknowledged they had been feeding on ; and fome of them, indeed, bore evident marks or their hav- ing been upon the fire. From this circumllance, it was but too apparent, that the horrid practice of de- vouring their enemies, is pradifed here, as much as at New Zealand, and other South Sea iflands. For the various articles they brought, they received in ex- change, kn'ves, chiflels, nails, looking glalTes, buttons, pieces CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. Mi pieces of iron and tin, or any kind of metal. They had not much inclination for glafs beads, and rejeded every kind of cloth. The next day was employed in hauling pur (hips in- to the cove, where they were moored. We found, On heaving up the anchor, notwithilanding the great depth of watetj that rocks were at the bottom. Thefe had greariy injured the cable, as well as the haufers that were carred out to warp the (hip into the cove ; confe- qiiently the whole bottom was ftre'-'ed with rocks. The (hip was now become very leaky in her upper works ; the carpenters were therefore ordered to caulk her, and Co Irepair any other defcds they might dif- cover. '{r^ In the courfe bf this day (the 31ft of March) the news of our arrival brought vaft numbers of the natives about our (hips. At one time we counted above ^ hundred canoes, feach of which, on an average, had five people on board ; few containing lefs than three ; many- having JeVen, eight, or nine ; and one was manned with fevcnteen. Many of thefe were ne^ vifitors, which wc difcovered by their orations and ceremonies when they approached the (hips. li'they, at firft, had apprehended that we meant to behoftile, their fears were now removed; for they ventured on board the (hips, and mixed with our peo- ple with the utmoft freedom and familiarity. We di(i- covet-ied, however, by this intercourfe, that they were as fond of pilfering as any we had rrtet with during our voyage : and they were much more mifchievous than any of the other thieves we had found ; for, having (harp inftruments, in their pofTeflRon, they could, the inftant that our backs were turned, cut a hook from a tackle, or a piece of iron from a rope. Beiides other articles, we loft feveral hooks in this manner, one of which weighed between twenty and thirty pounds. They ftripped our boats of every mor- felof iron that was worth taking away, thougn fome of our men were always left in them as ajjuard. They Vol. II. N^36. ^F were, 4M CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. were, indeed, (o dexterous in efFedting their purpofet that one fellow would contrive to amule our people at one end of the boat, while another was forcing off the iron work at the other. If an article that had been ftolen, was immediately miiTed, th«Mhief was eafily de- tected, as they were fond of impeaching each other. But the prize was always reludantly given up by the guiky perfon ; and fomelimes compulGve means were | obliged to be exercifed for that p.urpofe. Our (hips being fafcly moored, we proceeded, the I next day, to other neceuary bufinefs. The obfervato. lies were taken afhore, and placed upon a rock on one fide of the cove, not far from the Refolution. A party of men was ordered to cut wood, and clear a place for watering. Having plenty of pine trees here, others were employed in brewing fpruce beer. The forge was | alfo ereded to make the neceflary iron work for repair- ing the fore-riaft, which had one of the bibs defedive,! and was othcrwife incomplete. We were daily vilited by a conliderable number of the natives ; and, among them, we frequently faw new faces. They had a lingular mode of introducing them- felves on their firft appearance. They paddled, with their utmoft ftrength and activity, round both the fhips; a chief^ all this time, (landing up with a fpear in his I hand, and fpeaking, or rather bawling, mod vocifc' Toufly. Sometimes the face of this orator was covered tvithal mafk, reprefenting either a human countenance, or that of fome other animal ; and, inilead of a fpear, he had a kind of rattle in his hand. Having made this ce* remonious circuit round thv; fhip, they would cornel alongfide, and then begin to trafEc with us. Frequent- ly, indeed, they would tirft entertain us with afongjol vrhich their whole company joined, and producra a{ very agreeable harmony. During thcfe vifits, ourprin* pal care was to guard againfl their thievery. We had, however, in the morning of the 4th of ApiilJ a Yery fcrious alarnu Our party, who were cmployedl CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD. VOYAGE. 4»3 mtenance, ot en ihore in cutting wood and filling water, obferved, that the natives, in all quarters, were arming themfelves in the beft manner they were able ; and that thofe who had not proper weapons, were colledtng (licks and {tones. Hearing this, we thought it neceflary to arm* alfo ; but, being refolved to ad upon the defenfive, the Commodore ordered all our workmen to repair to the rock on which our obfervatories had been placed, leav- ing the fuppofed enemy in pofleffion of the ground where they had aflembled, which wai widiin about a , hundied yards of the Refolution's ftern. Ourdanger, however, was only imaginary ; for thefe hoftile preparations were directed againft a body of their own countrymen, who were advancing to attack them. Our friends of the Sound, perceiving our apr prehenf^ons, exerted their beft endeavours to convince, us that this was really the cafe. We faw they had peo- I pie looking out, on ooth fides of the cove, and parelled themfelvejl in their beil, alTembled in a body, and gave us a hearty welcome to the village, by joining in an agreeable fong. Evening now drawing on, Captain Cook proceeded fot| . the (hips round the north end of the ifland. • When he retumt!^ on board, he was informed thatj in his abfence, fome ftrangers, in two or three large ca? noes, had made a vifit to the (hips ; from whom our jjle underftodd b); ligns, that they had come from the S. Kl They brought with them feveral garments, fkins, and| "Odier articles, which tliey bartered for fome. of ours. '»' ■■ ■ • ■ ' . Bui neai V( CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 419 But the moft remarkable circumftance was, that two filver table-fpoons were purchafed of them by our peo-» pie, which appeared to be of Spanifli manufadure. They were worn round the neck of one of thefe vilitors, by way of ornament. On the 2 1 ft, the mizen-maft was got in and rigged, and the carpenters ordered to make a new foretop-mali, to replace that which had been carried away. A num-. ber of ftrangers vifited us about eight o'clock the next morning, in twelve or thirteen canoes. They came ; from the fouthward ; and when they had tinned tho point of the cove, they drew up in a body, where they remained about half an hour, at the diilance of two hundred yards from the (hips. We imagined, at iirft, they were afraid to approach ; but in this wc were mil- .' taken, for they were only making preparations for an introdudory ceremony. At length they advanced towards the (hips, all (land- ing up in their canoes, and began to fmg. Some of their longs were flow and folemn, in which they were joined by the whole body ; others were in quicker time, and their notes were regularly accompanied by the mo- tions of their hands, their paddles beating in concert on the fides of the canoes j and thev, at the fame time, ex- hibited the moft expreffive geftures. They remained filent, for a few fecortds, Jtfter the conclulion of each fong, and then began again, frequently pronouncing the word hooee as a kind of chorus. Having thus favoured us whh a fpecimen of their mufic, with which we were highiy entertained for half an hour, they came nearer the (hips and bartered with I us. We now perceived that fome of our old friends frotti the Sound were among them, who managed for the ftrangers in the traffic between us and them. Thefe vifitors being gone, the Captains Cook an4 Gierke went with two boats to the village at the weft point, where Captain Cook had been two days before, and had obferved that plenty of grafs was to be had I near it ; and it was neceffary to get a fupply of this. Vol. I1.-.N'» 37. . ^ 3<3 ' for 4 26 dAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. ioT the few rpmnining goats and flieep wliich were ftlll on hoard. They cxperiencttl the iamc welcome re- ception that Captain Cock haJ met with before ; and, i'oon after they were aihore, the Commodore ordered fome of his people to begin cutting ; not imagining that the natives would obje*^ tr < ur furnifliing our- i'elvcs with what could not be of any u(e to them, tnough efientially neceffary for us. In this, however, he wai m:ftaken,for as foon as our men began cutting the grafs, fome of the inhabitants would not permit them to pro- ceed, faying, " makook," which fignified that we muft buy it firft. The Commodore, at this time, was in one of thj the neCeflary bufmefs of the (hips ; which was the prir> jcipal obje^H:, as the feafon was advancing, and the fur.cefs of the voyage depended upon their diligence in per- forming their feveral tafks. Excurfions of any kind [were, therefore, never attempted. Lying in a cove, on an ifland, all thj animals that we Ifavv alive, were two or three racoons, martins, and fquirrels: fome of our people, indeed, who landed on the continent, on the S. ¥.. fuie of the Sound, faw the prints of a bear's feet, not far from the (hore. The only account, therefore, that we can furnilh of the quadru- peds, is taken from the fkins which we purchafed of the inhabitants ; and thefe were fomctimes fo mutilated |ia the heads, tails, and paws, tUat we could not even gucfg 4^ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. guefs to v^hat animals they belonged ; though otheri were either To perfet about an I id iquirre!s I : fo large as I ngth of the he animals srs that we ne of them, r ; and the nx. Hogs, pearance in edge of our e they give he fhips. ,*porpoile8, feeming to e Phocena. dl Gonfider him v.i'i CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOt AGE. 447 him as belonging to this clafs, as living principally ia the water. We doubted, for fome time, whether the {kins, which the natives . fold us for otter fkins, really belonged to that animal ; but, a (hort time before our departure, a whole one, juft killed, was purchafed from feme ftrangers, of which Mr Webber made a drawing. It was young, weighing only twenty-five pounds ; was of a glofTy black colour, but many of the hairs being tipt with white, gave it, at fir ft fight, a greyifh caft. iniie face, throat, and breaft, were of a light brown, or yellowifti white ; and, "in many of the fkins, that colour extended the whole length of the belly. In each jaw it had fix cutting teeth ; two in the lower jaw being ex- ceeding fmall, and placed without, at the bafe of the two in the middle. In thefe refpcfts, it differs from thofc found by the Ruffians, and alfo in the outer toes of the hind feet not being fkirted with a membrane. There alfo appeared a greater variety in colour, than is mentioned by thofe who defcribe the Ruffian fea otters. It is moft probable, that thefe changes of colour naturally take place at the different gradations of life. The very young ones had brown coarfe hair, with a litde fur un- derneath ; but thofe of the fize of the animal juft dc- jcribed, had a greater quantity of that fubftance. After they have attained their full growth, they lofethe black colour, which is fucceeded by a deep brown. At that period,' they have a greater quantity of fine fur, and very few long hairs. Some, which we fu ppofed to be older, were of a chefriut brown ; and we fa w, fome few fkins that were of a perfedl yellow. The fur of thefe creatures is certainly finer than that of any other animal we know of; confequently the difcovery of this part of North America, where fo valuable an article of commerce is to be procured, ought certainly to be conlidered as a matter of fome confeqiience. Birds are far from being numerous here, and thofe that are to be feen are remarkably fhy, owing, perhaps, to their being continually harraffed by the natives, either to eat them, or become poffefled of their feathers lo be V0I.II.-N037. 3H worn 44« CAPTAIN CO0K'« THIRD VOYAGE. worn as ornaments. There are crows and ravens, not differing, in the leaft, from thofe in England : alfo a jay or magpie : the comn^on wren, which is the only fing- ing bird we heard ; the Canadian thrulh; the brown eagle, with a white* head and tail ; a fmall fpecies of hawk ; a heron ; and the large crefted Americain king- f.fher. There are alfo fome that have not yet been mentioned by thofe who have treated on natural hiftory, The two firft are fpecies of wood-peckers. One is fome- what fmaller than a thrufh, of a black colour on the back, having white fpots on the wings ; the head, neck, and breaft, of a crimfon colour, and the belly of a yel- lowifli -olivfe colour ; whence it might, with propriety, be called the yellow bellied wood-pecker. The other is larger and more elegant ; the back is of a dufky brown colour, richly waved with black ; the belly has a reddifh caft, with black fpots ; it has alfo a black ipot on the breaft, and the lower part of the wings and tail are of a fcarlet colour; the upper part blackifh. A crimfon ftreak runs on each fide, from the angle of the mouth, a litde down the neck. The third and fourth are, one of the finch kind, not larger than a linnet, of a dufky colour, black head and neck, and white bill ; and a fand piper, of a dulky brown colour, with a broad white band acrofs the wings, of the fize of a fmall pigeon. There are alfo humming birds, which differ, in fome degree, from the numerous forts already known of this delicate little animal. The quebrantahueflbs, (hags, and j^ulls, were feen off the coaft ; and the two laft were alio frequent in the Sound. There are two forts of wild ducks ; one of which was black, with a white head ; the other was white, and had a red bill, but of a larger fize. Mere are alfo the greater lumme, or diver, which are found in our northern countries. Some fwans too, were ctaceor twice feen flying to the northward, but we are unac- quainted with their haunts. On the fhores we found another fand piper, about the fize of a lark, and not un- like ^ CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 42^ like the burre : alfo a plover, very much refembling our common fea lark* Though the variety of fi(h is not very ^reat here, they are more plentiful in quantit^r than birds. The principal forts are the common herring, which are very numerous, though not exceeding feven inches in length; a fmaller fort, which, though larger than the anchovy, or fardine, is of the fame kind ; a lilver coloured bream, and another of a gold brown colour, with narrow blue ftripes. It is moft probable that the herrings, and far- dines, come in large ftioals, at ftated feafons, as is ufual with thofe kinds of filh. The two forts of breams may be reckoned next to thefe in quantity ; and thofe which were full grown weighed abQj.it a pound. The other filh were fcarce, and confifted of a brown kind of fcul- pin, fuch as are taken on the coaft of Norway ; another of a reddifh caft ; froft fifh ; a large one, without fcales, refembling the bulkhead ; and a fmall brownifh cod with whitifh fpots ; alfo a red fifh,. of nearly the fame fize, which fome cI our people had feen in the ftraits of Magellan ; and another fomewhat like the hake. Con- fiderablc numbers of thofe fifh called the chimara, or litde fea wolves, are met with here. Sharks alfo fre- quent the Sound, the teeth of which many natives bad ia their pofTeffion. The other marine animals are a fmall cruciated me^ufa, or blubber ; flar fifh, fmall crabs, and a large cuttle fifh. About the rocks there is an abundance of large mufcles ; alfo fea ears ; and we often found fhells of pretty large plain chamse, Alfo fome trochi of two Ipecies ; a curious murex ; rugged wilks ; and a fnail. Befides thefe, there are fome pTam cockles and limpets. Many of the mufcles are a fpan long ; in fome of which there are large pearls, but they are difagreeable both in colour and fhapc. It is probable that there is red coral either in the found or on the coaft ; large branches of it having been feen in the canoes of the natives. The only reptiles obferved here, were brown fnakes, about two feet in length, having whitifh ftripes on the 43° CAPTAIN C00K»8 THIRD VOYAGE. back and fides ; and brownifli water lizards. The for-* mer are fo perfcdly harmlefs, that wehave feen the na- tives carry them alive in their hands. The infeA tribe feem to be more numerous. For though the feafon for their appearance was only beginning, we law feveral difTerent (brts of butterflies, all of which were common : we alfo found fome humble bees ; goofeberry moths ; a few btctles ; two or three forts of llies, and fome muf- quitoes. Though we found both iron and copper here, we did not imagine that either of them belonged to this place. .We did not even fee the ores of any metal, ex- cept a coarfe red ochry lubftance, ufed by the natives in painting or ftaining thcmfelves. This may, perhaps, contain a fmall quantity of iron ; as may alfo a black and white pigment made ufe of for the fame purpofe. Exclufive of the rock, which conftitutes the fhores and mountains, we faw, among the natives, fome articles made of a hard black granite, which was neither very compadt, nor fine grained; alfo a greyifli whetftone; the common oil ftone ; and a black fort, little inferior to the hone ftone. The natives were feen to ufe the tranf- parent leafy glimmer, and a brown leafy or martial forf. riiey had alio pieces of rock cryftal. The two firft articles were probably to be obtained near the fpot, as they had coniiderable quantities of them ; but the latter, it may be fuppofed, came from a greater diftance, or is extremely fcarcc ; for our vifirors would not part with it without a very valuable conlideration. The ftature of the natives is, in general, below the common flandard ; but their perfons are not prppor- tionably {lender, being ufually pretty plump, though not mufcular. Their foft flelhinefs, however, feems never to fwell into corpule^ice ; and many of the older people are rather lean. Moft of the natives have round full vifages, which arc fometimes broad^ with high pro- minent cheeks. Above thefe, the face frequently ap- pears fallen in quite acrofs between the temples : the jiofe flattens at il^ bafe, has wide noftrils, and a rour.:led > hd ..■SS*^'. ' ^>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. "^^.^ vl^* ,v .v^ i^^^^r^ A° i/j 1.0 l:^|2£ |2.5 ■^ 1^ 12.2 Hf Bii 1.1 f -^ H^ IL25 i 1.4 — 6' 1.6 HiotogiBphic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WiBSTER, N.Y. U5M (716) S72-4S03 \ V V ;\ ,.^ %° ^r^m CAPTAIN COOK»$ THIRD VOTAGE. 43« point. The forehead is low, the eyes fmall, black, and languifhing; the mouth round, the lips thick, and the teeth regular and well fet, but not remarkable for their whitenefs. Some have no beards at all, and others only a fmall thin one upon the point of the chin. This does not arife from an original deficiency of hair on that part, but from their plucking it out by the roots ; for thofe who do not deftroy it, have not only confiderable beards on every part of the chin, but alfo whifkers, or mufla- chios, running from the upper lip to the lower jaw ob- liquely downward.* Their eye brows are al(o fcanty and narrow ; but they have abundance of hair on the head, which is ftrong, black, ftraight, and lank. - Their necks are fhort, and their arms are rather clumfy, having nothing of beauty or elegance in their formation. The limbs, in all of them, are fmall in proportion to the other parts ; befides, they are crooked and ill formed, having projedling ancles, and large feet aukwardly ftiaped. The latter defed feems to be occafioned, in a great meafure, by their fitting fo continually on their hams or knees. Their colour cannot be properly afcertained, their bodies being incruded with paint and nadinefs ; though when thefe have been carefully rubbed off, the fkin was little inferior, in whitenefs, to that of the Europeans^ though of that palilh cad which diflinguiOies the inha^ bitants of our louthern nations. Some of them, when young, appear rather agreeable, when compared to the generalit)r of the people ; that period of life being at- tended with a peculiar degree oi animation ; but, after a certain age, the diftinfiion is hardly obfervable ; a remarkable fameneft charaderizes every countenance, dullnefsand want of expreflion being vinbly pourtrayed in every vifage. The women, in general, are of the fame * It is a miftalcen notion though, efpoufetl by eminent writers, that American Indians have no beards. See Carver's ^fravels^ f. 224, 225 J and MarfdenU HiJIory of Sumatra ^ p. 3^, 40, 432 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. fame fizc, colour, and form, with the men ; nor la iti cafy to diftinguiih them, as they poffefs no natural! feminine delicacies. Nor was there a fingle one to be found, even among thofe who were in their prime, who had theleaft pretenfions to beauty or comeHnefs. Their drefs, in common, is a flaxen kind of mantle, ornamented with a narrow ftripe of fur on the upper edge, and fringes at the lower edge. Faffing under the left arm, it is tied over the right ihoulder, leaving both arms perfeifbly free. Sometimes the mantle is faftened round the waift by a girdle of coarfe matting. Ov er this is worn a fmall cloak of the fame fubftance, reaching to the waift, alfo fringed at the bottom. They wear a cap like a truncated cone, or a flower pot, made of very fine matting, ornamented with a round knob, or a bunch of leathern taflels, having a ilring paffing under thc| chin, to prevent its blowing off. l The above drefs is common to both fexcs, and the men often wear, over their otlier garments, the (kin of fbme animal, as a bear, wolf, or Tea otter, with the hair [ outwards ; fometimes tying it before, and fometimes be- hind, like a cloak. They throw a coarfe mat about 1 their (houlders in rainy weather, and they have woollen garments which are but little ufed. They generally wear their hair hanging loofely down j but, thofe who have not a cap, tie it into a kind of bunch on the crown of the head. Their drefs is certainly convenient, and, were it kept clean, would not be inelegant ; but, as they are conti- nually rubbing their bodies over with a red paint, mixed with oil, their garments become greafy, and contra^ a rancid ofFenfive fmell. The appearance, indeed, of | thefe people, is both wretched and filthy, and their heads and garments fwarm with lice. So loft are they to every idea of cleanlinefs, that we frequently faw them pick off thefe vermin, arid eat them with the greateft compofure. Their bodies, it has been obfervcd, are always cover- ed with red paint, but tUeir faces are ornamented with CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOtAGE. 433 variety of colours ; a black, a brighter red, or a white colour : the iaft of thefe gives them a ghaftly horrible appearance. They likewife ftrew the brown martial mica over the paint, which caufes it to glitter. Many of their ears are perforated in the lobe, where they males a large hole, and two fmaller ones higher up on (ht outer edge, in thefe holes are hung bits of bone, quilk fattened upon a leathern thong, fhells, bunches ox taf- fcls, or thin pieces of copper. In fomc, the feptam of the nofe is alfo perforated, and a piece of coi'd drawn through it. Others wear, at the ikiue place, pieces df copper, brafs, or iron, (haped fomewhat like a horfe- (hoe, the narrow opening receiving the y^^/ww, fothat it may be pinched gently by the two points, and thus the ornaments hangs over the upper lip. The rings of our buttons were eagerly purchafed, and appropriated to this ufe. Their bracelets, which they wear about their wrifts, are bunches of white bugle beads, or thongs with taffels, or a broad black horny (hining fubftance. Round their ancles they frequently wear leathern thongs, or the fmews of animals curioufly twilled. Such are their common dreffes and ornaments, but they have fome that are ufed only on extraordinary oc- cafionSjfuch as going to war, and exhibiting themfclves I to ftrangers in ceremonial vifits. Amongft thefe are the fkins of wolves, or bears, tied on like their other garments, but edged with broad borders of fur, inge^ I nioufly ornamented with various figures. Thefe arc |occafionally worn feparately, or over their common clothing. The moft ufual head drefs, on thefe occa- fions, is a quantity of withe, wrapped about the head, with large feathers, particularly thole of eagles, ftuck in it; or it is entirely covered with fmall white feathers. At the fame time, the face is varioufly painted, the up- per and lower parts being of oppoiite colours, and the ftrokes having the appearance of frefh gafhes ; or it is i)efmeared with a kmd of fat or tallow, mixed with paint, formed into a great variety of figures, fomewhat, llike carved work. The 434 CAPTAIN COOK'a THIRD VOYAGE. The hair, fometimes, is feparated into fmall parcels, and tied, at intervals, with thread ; and others tie it to- gether behind, after the Englifli manner, and flick in it lome branches of the cuprejfus thyoides. Thus equipped, | they have a truly favage and ridiculous appearance, which is much heightened when they aflume their mon- (Irous decorations. Thefe confift of a great variety of wooden mafks, applied to the face, forehead, or upper part of the head. Some of thefe vifors referable human faces, having hair, beards, and eye-brows ; others repre- fent the heads of birds, and many the heads of animals; fuch as deer, wolves, porpoifes, and others. Thefe reprefentations generally exceed the natural fize, and they are frequently ftrewed with pieces of the foliaceous mica which makes them glitter, and augments their deformity. Sometimes they even exceed this, and fix large pieces of carved work upon the head, projei^- ing to a conliderable diftance, and rcfembling the prow ofa canoe. So much do they delight in thefe difguifes, that, for want of another mafk, we faw one of them thruft his head into a tin kettle which he had bought from us. Whether thefe extravagant mafquerade ornaments are ufed on any religious occafion, or in any kind of I diverfion, or whether they are calculated to intimidate by their mondrous appearance, or as deco^js when hunt- ing animals, is uncertain. But,if travellers,in an ignorant | and credulous age, when more than marvellous things j were fuppofed to exift, had feen feveral people decorated | in this manner, and had not approached io near them as to be undeceived, they would have believed, and hav© endeavoured to make others believe, that a race of beings exifted, partaking ^of the nature of man and beaft. Among the people of Nootka, one of the drefles kcm peculiarly adapted to war. It is a thick tanned leathern mantle doubled, and appears to be the Ikin of an elk, or buffalo. This is fattened on in the ordinary manner, and is fo contrived as to cover the breaft quite up to :quipped, ] pearance, leir mon- i^ariety of | or upper le human e natural ;es of the augments 1 this, and , projea. the prow I difguifes, : ot them id bought 1. 3i i «n I H 1« ?>vi ,S( ^ •v. CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE. 43S the throat ; part of it, at the fame time, falling down to their heels. This garment is, fonietimes, very curious* lyr painted, and is not only ilrong enough to refift ar- rows, but, as we underftood from them, even fpears cannot pierce it ; fo that it may be confidered as their completed defenfive armour. Sometimes they wear a fort of leathern cloak, over which are rows of the hoofs of deer, placed horizontally, and covered with quills ; which, on their moving, make a loud rattling noife. Whether this part of their garb is intended to flrike ter- ror in war, or to be ufed on ceremonious occafions, ig uncertain ; but we faw one of their mufical entertain- ments, which was condtidled bv a man habited in thia manner, having a mafk on, ana fhaking his rattle. Though we cannot view thcfe people without a kind of horror, when they are thus ftrangely apparelled, yet, when divefted of thefe extravagant drefles, and beheld in their common habit, they have no appearances of ferocity in their countenances ; but, as has been already obferved, they feem to be of a quiet phlegmatic difpo* liition; deficient in animation and vivacity, to render themfelves agreeable in fociety. They are rather re- ferved than loquacious ; but tneir gfavity feems confti- j tutional, and not to ariie from a convidlion of its pro* priety, or to be the refult of any particular mode of edu- cation j for, in their higheft paroxyfms of rage, they have not heat of language, or fignificancy of gellures, |toexprefs it fufficiently. The orations which they make on all public occa* Ifions, are Utde more than (hort fentences, and fome- times only fmgle words, forcibly repeated in one tone of voice, accompanied with a tingle gefture at every fentence; at the fame time jerking their whole body a little forward, with their knees bending, and their arms hanpjing down by their fides. From their exhibiting human (kulls and bones to Tale, there is little reafon to doubt of their treadng their ene- mies with a degree of brutal cruelty ; *but, as this cir- [cumftance rather marics a general agreement of charac- Voi. II. N^ 37. 3 1 tcr 43« CA?tAlN COPIC* THIRD VOYAGE. i ter among almcft every uncivilized tribe, in every agfl ;ind couiitryj they are not to be reproached with any charge of peculiar inhumanity. Their difpofuion, in this relped., we had not any reafon to judge unfavour- ably of. They appear to be docile, courteous, and good natured ; but they are quick in refenting injuries, not- withftanding the predominancy of their phlegm ; and, like all other pamonate people, as quickly forgetting them. Thefe fits of paflion never extended farther than the parties immediately concerned; the fpediators never entering into the merits of the quarrel, whether it was with any of us, or among their own people ; (hewing as much indiilerence, as if they were wholly unac- quainted with the whole tranladion. It was common to fee one of them rave and (bold, while all his agitation | did not in the leaft excite the attention of his country, men, and when we could not difcover the object of his difpleafure. They never betray the leaft fymptoml of timidity upon thefe occafions, but feem refolutely de able. jLuckily for us, they fet no value upon any of our articles, except the metals. Linens, and many other thinjgs, were fecure from their depredations, and we could me\y leave them hanging out all night afliore, without being watched. The principle which prompt- ed thefe people to pilfer from us, would probably ope- rate in their intercourfe with each other. We had, indeed, abundant reafon to believe, that fVealing is very common amongd them, and frequently producft ^uarrelsi of which we faw more infianccs than one. itumher CAPTAIN COOK'f THIRD VOYAGE. 43» Number of Inhabitants at Nooika Sound — Manner of build-* ing their Houfes — Defcription of Jtheir hifidey Furniture^ and Utenfils^^Their FiIthinefj-'''-^Weoden Images, called Klunima^^'Employments of the Men Indolence of thi young Men-^'Of the Women, and their Employments^—^ Different Sorts of Food, and Manner of preparing it~^ .Bozvs-^^Jrrows — Spears^Slings^ and other Weapons — . Manuf allures of Woollen, ^c. — Mechanic Jrts-^Defign and Execution in Carding and Painting — Canoes — /m- plements ufed in Hunting and Ftjhing — Iron Tools com'* tnon among them-^Manner of procuring that^ and qther Metals'rrLanguage, ^c. THE only inhabited parts of the Sounds feem to he, the two villages already mentioned. A pretty ex- ad computation of the number of inhabitants in both, might be made from the canoes that vifited our (hips, the fecond day after our arrival. They confifted of about a hundred, which, upon an average, contained at lead five peffons each. But, as there were very few women, old men, children, or youths, then among them, we may reafonably fuppofe, that the number of the inhabitants of the two villages could not be lefs than four times the number of our vifitors ; being two thoufand in the whole. The village which is fituated at the entrance of the Sound, (lands on the fide of a pretty fteep afcent, ex- tending froin the beach to the wood. The houfes con- fift of three ranges or rows, placed at almoft equal dit- Uaces behind each other, the nront row being the iargeft; and 44* CAPTAIN CaOXV THIRD VOYAGE. and there are a few ftraggling lioufes at each end. Thefe rows are interfcded by- narrow paths, or lanes, at irregular diflances, palTing upward ; but thofe betweea the hcufes are confiderabiy broader. Though this ge- neral difpofirion has fonic appearance of rogularity, there is none in the refpedive houfes j for every divifion made by the paths, may cither be conlidered as one or more houfes ; there being no regular reparation to dif- tinguiOi them by, either within or without. v Thel'e erecVions confi»l of very long broad planks, relling upon the edges cf each other, tied, in different parts, with withes of pine bark- 1 hey have only (lender pofts on the outfule, at confiderable diitances from each other, to which they are alfo faftcned j but there are fome larger j^oles within, placed aflant. I'he fides and ends of thele habitations are about jfeven or eight feet in height, but the back part is fomewhat. higher. 7 he planks, therefore, vi'hich compolc the rqof, (lant for- ward, and, being loofe, may be moved at pleafure. They may cither be put clofe to exchide the raiui ^r Separated to admit the light in fine weather. Upon the whole, however, they are moft miferable dwellings, and difplay very little attention or ingenuity in their conilrudlion : for, though the fide pUnks are pretty dole to each other in fome places, they are quite open in others. Befides, thefe habitations have no re- gular doors, and can only be entered by a hole, which the unequal length of the planks has accidentally mad?. In the iides of the houfe they have alfo holes to look out at, ferving for windows ; but thefe are very irregu- larly dil'pofed, without attending, in the Icafl, to the Jhape or fize of them. Within the habitations, we have frequently a view from one end to the other of thefe ranges of building ; Ibr, though there are fome appearances of Reparation on each fide, for the accommodation of different perfons or families, they do not intercept the fight ; anu gene- rally confift of pieces of plank, extending from tb:^ fidq to the xr*iddl5 of the houfe. On th fidcf gf each of thefq Ill -.*:^;:i' s^ I th ;klinfr nhele 5rner ; \ micl- \, of i ri 4 \ ■ ;. ." ';! *i m^f^^^m:^' ■U. m:: thefe pa higher t vvhereon benches I four or fi nor chim in partici Iclore pan cfany vi benches, but it ha if'leof th Ibitanrs. Tlie fii Ichcfls an( at the fidi Jfited theii hhat are d of the up; alidfafte have a i'q vcnience They are mhof a &cas de , roi lof about ( jlbod; baf Their i [hung up, without a I fed fcene phich liai Jafuperioi Icrt'in tliei The ir lliowever, iThey not gut them CAPTAIN COOK'8 TIIIUD VOYAGE. 44t thefe parts is a little bench, about five cr f.x inches higher than the reft of the floor, covered with mats, whereon the family fit and fleep. The length of thefc benches is generally fcven or eight feet, and the breadth I four or five. The fire-place, which has neither hearth nor chimney, is in the middle of the floor. One houfe, in particular, was nearly feparated from the reft by a clote partition ; and this was the moft regular buikiinj!; of any we had feen. In it there were four of thefe knches, each holding a fingle family at the corner; but it had not any feparation by boards, and the mid- dle of the houfe leemed to be common to all the inha- Ibitnnts. The furniture of their houfer. confifts principal' y of Ichcfls and boxes of various fize$, piled upon each other, at the fides or ends of the houfe ; in which are depo- iitetl their garments, fkins, malks, and other articles uhat are deemed valuable. Many of them are double, jcfthe upper one ferves as a lid to the other : Ibmehavc a lid faftened with thongs ; others, that are very large, have a Iquare hole cut in the upper part, for the con- venience of putting things in, or talcing them out. They are frequently painted black, ftuddcd with the teeth of animals, or rudely carved with fig«ire& of bird% &c as decorations. They have alfo fqu^fe and oblung ils; round wooden cups and bowls ; wooden troui^hs, of about two feet in length, out of which they eat their food ; bags of matting, bafkets of twigs, &c. Their implements for fifliing, and 6ther things, are hung up, or fcatrered in dilFerent parts of the. houfe, without any kind of order, making, in the whole, a pcr- fedfcene of confufion ;• except on the fleeping benches, ?frhich have nothing on them but the mats, wliich are of afuperior quality to ihofe that they ufuaiiy have to ftf cii?in their boats. ,. ,^^^ The irregularity and confufion of then* houfes is, however, far exceeded by their naftinefs and ftench. They not only, dry their filh within doo!S, but they alfo gut them there ; which, together with thsir bones and , frag- w 44* CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. m fragments thrown upon the ground at meals, occafioni feveral heaps of filth, which are never removed, till it becomes troublefome, from their bulk, to pafs over them. Every thing about the houfe (links of train- oil, Bfh, and fmoke ; and every part of it is as filthy as I can be imagined. Notwithllanding all this filth and confufion, manyl of thefe houfes are decorated with images ; which arc nothing more than the trunks of large trees, of the height of four or five feet, placed at the upper end of the apart- ment, with a human face carved on the front, and the hands and arms upon the fides. Thefe figures too are varioufly painted, and make, upon the whole, a moft ridiculous appearance. Hiefe images are generally call- cd Klumma ; but the names of the two particular ones, (landing abreaft of each other, at the didance of about three or four feet, w€re Natchkoa and Maffeeta, A fort of curtain, made of mat, ufually bung before them,! which the natives were fometimes unwilling to re-l move ; and when they did confent to unveil them, they feemed to exprefs themfelves in a very myfterious ni?.n-| ner. It feems probable that they fometimes make offer- ings to them ; for, if we rightly interpreted their fign J they requefied us to give iomething to thefe images,! when they drew the mats from before them. I From thefe circupidances, it was natural for us tol fuppofe that they were reprefentatives of their gods, orl fome fuperftitious fymbols ; and yet they were held iol no very extraordinary degree of edimation, for, withal fmall quantitv of brafs, or iron, any perfon might havcj purchafed all the gods in the place. Mr Webber, in drawing a view of the infide ofij Nootka hoUfe, wherein thefe figures are reprefentedj was interrupted, and hindered from proceeding, by oncj of the inhabitants. Thinking a bribe would have proper cffe£t upon this occafion, Mr Webber made him] an oflfer of a button from his coat, which, being metal, immediately operated as it was intended, and he was at| liberty to proceed as before. But foon after he had made CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 443 tarionil , till it 3 over train- Uhy as many ich are! height! I apart- md the I too are! amofti lly call. eir ones,! )f about! AfortI e them,! 5 to re-l :m, theyj iU8 m?.a- ce ofFer-l :ir fignJ images,! )r us tol gods, or : held lol , with a| ;ht have! ide of J refentedj [, by onc| have lade hir Ig metal, |e was at| he had made made a beginning, he was again interrupted by the fame man, who held a mat before the ngures. He therefore gave him another button, and was fuffered again to proceed. He then renewed his former pra£licc, till Mr Webber had parted with every fmgle button ; and then permitted him to proceed without any farther obftrudlion. The men feem to be chiefly employed in fifliing, and killing animals for the fuftenance of their families ; few of them being feen engaged in any bufmefs in the houfes ; but the women were occupied in manufuflur- ing their garments, and in curing their fardines, which they alfo carry' from the canoes to their houfes. The women alfo go in the fmall canoes, to gather, mufcles and other fhell fifh. They are as dexterous as the men ill the management of thefe canoes ; and when there are men in the canoes with them, they are paid very litde attention to on account of their iex, none of the men offering to relieve them from the labour of the paddle. Nor do they (hew theih any particular refpedl or tendernefs on other occafions. The young men are remarkably indolent ; being ge- nerally fitting about, in fcattered companies,- bafking themfelves in the fun, or wallowing in the fand iipon the beach, like fo many hogs, without any kind of^co- verlng. This difregard of decency was, however, con- fined folely to the men. The women were always de- cently cloathed, and behaved with great propriety ; juft- ly meriting all commendation for a modeft bafhfulnefs, lo becoming in their fex. In them it is the more me- ritorious, as the men have not even a fenfe of fhame. Befides feeing fomething of their domeftic life and employments, we were enabled to form fome judg- ment of their difpofition, and method of living, from the frequent vifits received from them at our Qiips, in the canoes ; in which we underftood they pafs much of their time, efpecially in the fummer : for they not only eat and fleep frequently in them, but lie and bafk them- felves in the fun, as we had feen them at their village. Vol. II.-N* 37. 3K Their 444 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. Their large canoes are, indeed, fufEciently fpacious for that purpofe ; and are, except in rainy weather, more comtorrable habitations than their lihhy houfes. Their ^reateft reliance for food feems to be upon thi fea, as affording tiih, and Tea animals. The principal of the lirft are herrings and fardines, two fpecies of bream, and fome fmall cod. The herrings and fardines not only ferve to be eaten frefli in their fcafon, but to be dried and fmoaked as (lores. The herrings alfo af- ford them another grand refource for food ; which is a vaft quantity of roe, prepared in a very extraordinary manntr. It is ftrewed upon fmall branches of the Ca- nadian pine. It is alfo prepared upon a long fea grafs, which is found, in great plenty, upon the rocks under water. This caviare is prefcrvcd in baflcets of mat, and ufed occafionally, after being dipped in water. It has no difagreeable tafte, and ferves thefe people as a kind of winter bread. They alfo eat the roe of fome other large fifh, that has a very rancid fmell and tafte. The large mufcle is an ellential article of their food, which is found in great abundance in the Sound. After roafling them in their (hells, they are ftuck upon long wooden fkewers, and taken off as they are to be eaten, as they require no further preparation, though they are fome times dipped in oil, as a fauce. The (mailer (hell fi(h contribute to encreaie the genefal ftock, but cannot be confidered as a material article of their food. The porpoife is more common among them as food than any of^the fea animals ; the flelh and rind of which they cut in large pieces, dry them as they do herrings, and eat them without farther preparation. They have alfo a very fmgular manner of preparing a fort of broth from this animal, when in its frefli ftate. They put fome pieces of it in a wooden veflel or pail, in which there is alfo fome water, and throw heated ftones into it. This operation is repeatedly performed till the con- tents are fuppofed to be fufficiently ftewed. The frefh ftones are put in, and the others taken out, with a cleft ftick, ferving as a pair of tongs ; the ve(rel being, fori thati that pur mon di nourifhi they pr< upon m; and freq of horn. They whales, f being coi with imp different ; at all feaf number c the Sounc The lar fcarce, as and, thou^ might, pe other tribe rictv of cii with the pi if we exce they (hoot Their oi dian pine advances, moft com] of a mild I eaten raw. tafte refeml 'root, about] I raw. As many othei is not the le there are pic |Oneof thci Kquire in a| for CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 44] that purpofe, always placed near the fire. This is a com- mon dim among them, and feems to be a very ftronj^ nourifhing food. From thefe, and other Tea animals, they procure oil in great abundance, which they ufe upon many occafions, mixed with other food, as fauce, and frequendy fip it alone, with a^ kind of fcoop made of horn. They probably feed upon other fea animals, fuch as whales, leals, and fea otters ; the flcins of the two latter being common amongft them ; and they are furniihed with implements of all forts for the deftrudion of thefe different animals, though perhaps they may not be able, at all feafons, to catch them in great plenty. No great number of frefh Ikins were to be fcen while we lay in the Sound. The land animals, at this time, appeared alfo to bi2 fcarce, as we faw no flefli belonging to any of them ; and, though their fkins were to be had in plenty, they might, perhaps, have been procured by traffic from other tribes. It plainly appears, therefore, from a va- riety of circumftances, that thefe people are furnifiied witn the principal part of their animal food by the fea ; if we except a few gulls, and fome other birds, which they (hoot with their arrows. Their only winter vegetables feem to be the Cana-» dlan pine branches, and fea grafs ; but, as the fpring advances, they ufe others as they come in feafOn. The moft common of thefe were two forts of liliaceous roots, of a mild fweetifh tatte, which are mucilaginous and eaten raw. The next is a root called a/jeita, and has a tafte refembling liquorice. Another fmall, fweetifli root, about the thicknefs oi furfapnrillay is alfo eaten raw. As the feafon advances, they have doubtlefs many others which we did not fee. For, though there is not the leaft appearance of cultivation among them, there are plenty of alder, goofeberry, and currant buQies, One of the conditions, however, which they feem to require in all food, is, that it fliould be of the lefs acrid [kind J for tl^ey would not touch tl^e leek or garlic, J K '2 though 44<5 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. thoiigh they fold us vafl quantities ofit, when they un- derftood we liked it. They fcemcd, indeed, not to re- lilh any of our food, and rcieded our fpirituous liquors as fomelhing difguftinc andi unnatural. Small marine animals, in their frefh ftate,*arc fome- times eaten raw ; though it is their ordinary pra(£licc to roaft or boil their food ; for they are abl'olute ftrangers to our method of boiling, as appears from their manmr of preparing porpoife broth ; befidcs, as they have only wooden veflcls, it is impoflible for them to perform fuch an operation. Their manner of eating corre- fponds with the naftinefs of their houfes and perfons ; for the platters and troughs, out of which they eat their food, leem never to have been walhed lince their ori- ginal formation ; the dirty remains of a former meal, being only fwept away by a fucceeding one. Every thing folid and tough, they tear to pieces with their hands and teeth ; for, though their knives are employed in cutting off the larger portions, they have not yet en- deavoured to reduce thefc to moi^thfuls by the fame means, though fo much more cleanly and convenient. But they do not poflefs even an idea of clcanlinelSjand cpndantly eat the roots which are dug from the ground, without attempting to (hake off the (oil that adheres to them. Whether they have any fet time for meals, we never certainly knew ; having feen ttiem eat at all hours in their canoes. But, having feen feveral mefles of por- poife broth preparing about noon, when we went to the village, they probably make a principal meal about that time. They have bows and arrows, fpears, flings, fhort truncheons made of bone, and a fmali pick-axe, fome- what refembling the common American tomahawk. Some of the arrows are pointed with iron, and others with indented bone ; the fpear has ufually along point made of bone. The tomahawk is a ftone of the length of feven or eight inches ; one end tCrmins^ting in a point, and the other (ixed into a wopdcn handle. This handle is intended to refemble the head and neck of a human CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 4-17 kman figure ; the ftone being fixed in the mouth fo as p rcprefent a tongue of great magnitude. To heighten [he refemhlance, human hair is alio fixed to it. This ifeapon is called iaawecjlj ; and they have another wea- pon made of ilone, which they call feeaik^ about ten or fvvelve inches long, having a fquare point. k may be reafonably concluded that they frrquently tage in clofe combat, from the number of their Hone ^nd other weapons ; and we had very dirai];reeah!e proofs of their wars being both frequent arid bloody, from the quantity of human (kulls that were offered us to fale. The defign and execution of their maimfadlures and lechanic arts, arc more extenfive and ingenious than [ould poffibly have been expeQed, from the natural dif- pofition of the people, and what little progrefs ihey had wde in civilization. The flaxen and woollen garments [ngagc their lirfl care, as being the moft material of liofe that may be clafled under the head of manufac- lures. The former arc fabricated from the bark of the line tree, beat into a mafs refembling hemp. After leing prepared in a proper manner, it is fpread upon a pck, which is faftened to two others in an ere£t pofition. le manufadurer, wha fits on her hams at this fimple nachine, knots it acrofs, at the diftance of abput half |n inch from each other, with imall plaited threads, lough it cannot, by this method, be rendered ib clofe id firm as cloth that is woven, it is fuificiently imper- |ious to the air, and is likewife fofter and more pliable. Though their woollen garments are probably manu- ^fturcd m the fame manner, they have much the ap- earance of a woven cloth \ but, the fuppofition of their eing wrought in a loom is defiroyed, by the various gures that are ingenioufly inferted in them ; it being |ery improbable that theie people (hould be able to ffoduce fuch a complex work, except immediately by lieir hands. They are of different qualities; lome tfcmblin^ our coarfeft fort of blankets ; and others not pch interior to our fiuell fort, and certainly both farmer and fpfter. The 44« CAPTAIN COOIC'8 TIIIUD VOYAGE. Tlie wool, of which they are maiuifa£lurcd, fcems to be produced by different animals, particularly the fox and brown lynx ; that from the lynx is tlie hnell:, and nearly refembles our coarfcr wools in colour ; but the hair, which alfo grows upon tbe animal, being inter- mixed with it, the appearance of it is Ibmewhat different when wrought. Tiie ornamental ligures in thele gar- ments are difpofed with great tade, and are generally j of a different colour, being ufually dyed either of a deep brown or yellow ; the latter of which when new, equals, in brightnefs, the beft in our carpets. Their fondnefs for carving on all their wooden ar- tides, correfponds with their tafte in wo. king figures upon their garments. Nothing is to be feen without a frecze-work, or a reprefentation of fome animal upon, it; but the moft general figure is that of the human i face, which is frequently cut out upon birds, and the other monftrous things already mentioned; and even j upon their weapons oi bone and (lone. The general defign of thefe figures conveys a fufficientl knowledge of the objects they are intended to reprefent; though, in the carving, very litde dexterity is difplayed. But, in the execution of many of the maflcs and heads, they have (hewn themfelves ingenious fculptors. They preferve, with the greateft exai^nefs, the general cha- radler of their own faces, and finifli the moft minute I parts with great accuracy and neatnefs. That thefe people have a ftrong propenfity to works of this fort, isl obfervable in a variety of particulars. Reprefentationsl of human figures ; birds; oeafts; filhj models of their canoes, and houfehold utenfils, were found among them| in very great abundance. Having mentioned their fkill in fomeoCtbeirnitatlvel arts, fuch as working figures in their garments, and! engraving, or carving them in wood ; we may alio addj their drawing them in colours. The whole procefs ofj their whale- fiftiery has been reprefented, in this manner,! on the caps they wear. This, indeed, was rudely ex-| ccuted, but ferved, at leaftj to convince us, diat, thoughl they CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. AAf> Ihey have not the knowledge of letters amongft them, [hey have a notion of reprerenting adtlons, in a laftinp:; tay, exclulive of recording them in thejr fongs ami traditions. I'hey have alfo other painted figures, which, Lerhaps, have no eftabliihed llgnif ications, and arc only (he creation of fancy or ca])ricc. Though the ftru&ure of their canoes is fimple, they ippear well calculated for every ufeful purpofe. The [arged, which contain upwards of twenty people, are formed of a fmgle tree. The length of many ot them is forty feet, the breadth feven, and the depth three. They kcoine gradually narrower from the middle towards [achend, the (tern ending perpendicularly, with a knob it the top. The fore part (tretches forwards and upwards, Ind ends in a point or prow, much higher than the (ides If the canoe, which are nearly ftraight. The greatell brt of them are without any ornament ;, fome have a ittle carving, and are ftudded with feals' teeth on the ariface. Some have alfo an additional prow, ufualiy bainted with a figure of fome animal. They have [either feats nor any other fupporters, on the infide, Kcept fome fmall round flicks, about the fize of a walk- ng cane, placed acrofs, about half the depth of the jaoe. Thev are very light, a»d, on account of their readth and flatnefs, fwim firmly, without an outrigger, which they are all deftitute. Their paddles, which \t fmall and light, refemble a large leaf m fhape, being olnted at the bottom, broad in the middle, and gradual- becoming narrower in the fhaft ; the whole length eing about five feet. By conftant ufe, they have ac- luired great dexterity in the management of thefe pad- ]les; but they never make ufe of any fails. For filhing and hunting, their inftruments are inge- foufly contrived, and completely made. They con- ' of nets, hooks, and lines, harpoons, gigs, and an in- iment refembling an oar. The latter is about twenty etin length, four or five inches in breadth, and of the [icknefs of half an inch. The edges, for about two [irds of its length, are fet with iharp bone teeth, about tWQ 450 CAPTAIN COOX's THIRD VOYAGE. two inches in length ; the other third ferving for a handle. With this inftrument they attack herrings and fardines, and fuch other fi(h as come in fhoals. It isl flruck into the Ihoal, and the fifh are taken either upon I or between the teeth. Their hooks, which are niadel of bone and wood, difjplay no great ingenuity ; but thi harpoon, which is ufed in ftriking whales, and othei fea animals, manifefts a great extent of contrivance. I confifts of a piece of bone, formed into two barbs, i; which the oval blade of a mufcle fhell, and the point oi the inrtrument, is fixed. Two or three fathoms of rop is faftcned to this harpoon, and, in throwing it, they uf^ a (haft of about fifteen feet long, to which the rope ii fattened ; to one end of which the harpoon is fixed fc as to leave the fliaft floating, as a buoy upon the watei when the animal is ftruck with the harpoon. We are flrangers to the manner of their catching'oi killing land animals, but, it is probable, that they flicx the fmaller fort with their arrows ; and encounter bean wolves, and foxes, with their fpears. They have feven forts of nets, which are perhaps applied to that purpofei it being cuftomary for them to throw them over thei heads, to fignify their ufe, when they offered them ft fale. Sometimes they decoy animals, by difguifinl themfelves with a Ikin, and running upon all fours, ' ■which they are remarkably nimble ; making, at t fame time, a kind of noife, orneighing. The mafks, carved heads, as well as the dried heads of different ai mals, are ufed upon thefe occafions. Every thing of the rope kind, which they ufe making their various articles, is formed either fn thongs of (kins, and fmews of animals, or from thefla en fubftance, of which they manufacture their mantl The iinews were fometimes fo remarkably long, thai was hardly poffible they could have belonged to other animal than the whale. The fame conjed may be hazarded with regard to the bones, of whi| they make their inftruments and weapons. The affiftance they receive from iron tods, contrib to thei plemei law bu that Wi the prii Thech woodci: fifhfkii nine or breadth fmaller. Some are crool part. W breadth a lar form pean mal coarfe'flal conrinual Iron is they alfo | fo commo cover hovi we arrivec knowledgi and we we quired thi{ any llrang apradice With w afcertain j pean manU rived from it docs not mediately tain tiie leaf ours, before tnerce vidth borate to p Vol. II.~M CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 451 to their dexterity in wocxlen performances. Their im- plements are almoft wholly made of iron ; at lead, we law but one chiflel that was not made of that metal, and that was only of bone. The knife and the chiflel are the principal forms that iron aflumcs amnngft them. The chiffcl confifts of a flat long piece, fattened into a woodeii handle. A ftone is their mallet, and a bit of fi(h flcin their poliflier. Some of thefe chaffels were nine or ten inches in length, and three or four in breadth; but they were, in general, confiderably fmaller. Some of their knives are very large, and their blades are crooked ; the edge being on the back or convex part. What we have feen among them, were about the breadth and thicknefs of an iron hoop ; and theit fingu- lar form fufficiently proves that they are not of Euro- pean make. Thefe"* iron tools are ftiarpencd upon a coarfe'flate whetllone, and the whole inftrument is kept continually bright. Iron is called by the ndAvvtsfeekemaile^ a name which they alfo gave to tin, and other white metals. It being ib common among thefe peor.le, we were anxious to dil- cover how it could be conveyed to them. As foon as we arrived in the Sound, we perceived that they had a knowledge of trafiic, and an inclination to purfue it ; and we were afterwards convinced that they had not ac- quired this knowledge from a curfory interview with any tlrangers, but it Teemed habitual to them, and was a pradlce in which they were well {killed. With whom. they carry on this traffic, we cannot I afccrtain ; for, though we faw feveral artides of Euro- pean manufadure, or fuch, at leafl:, as had been de- rived from fome civilized nation, fuch as brafs and iron, it docs not certainly follow that they were received im- mediately from thefe nations. For we never could ob- tain the leaft information of their having feen (hips, like ours, before, nor of their having been engaged in com- merce with fuch people. Many circumftances corro- [torate to prove this beyond a dcubu Oa our arrival, Vol.U.~N'»37. 3L they m 4S« CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. they were earned in their enquiries, whether we meant to fettle amongd them, and whether we were friendly vifitors J informing us, at the fame time, that they free- ly gave us wood and water from motives of friendftiip. This fufEciently proves, that they confidered them- felves as proprietors of the place, and dreaded no fupe- riority : tor it would have been an unnatural enquiry, if any (hips had been here before, and had fupplied themfelves with wood and water, and then departed; for they might reafonably expedl that we (hould do the fame. It mud be admitted, indeed, that they exhibited no marks of furprize at beholding our (hips ; but this may, with great propriety, be attributed to their natitral indolence of temper, and their wanting a third of curio- fity. They were never dartled at the report of a mut Guet, till they, one day, (hewed us that their hid^ ore(res were impenetrable to their fpears and arrows; when one of our people (hot a mufquet ball through one of them that had been fix times folded. Their adonilhment at this, plainly indicated their ignorance of the effed of fire arms. This was afterwards very frequently confirmed, when we ufed them to (hoot birds, at which they appeared greariy confomided. And our explanation of the piece, togethet with the nature of its operation, with the aid of (hot and ball, druck them fo forcibly, as to convince ub of their having no previous ideas on this matter. Though fome account of a voyage to this coaft, by the Spaniards, in 1774^, or 1775, had arrived in Eng- land oefore we failed, the circumdances jud mentioned ; fufEciently prove, that thefe ^ips had never been at{ Nootka.* It was alfo evident, that iron would not have i been in fo many hands, nor would the ufe of it have , been fo well known, if they had fO lately obtained thej the (ird knowledge of it. From • It has fince appeared, th «t the^ were pot within two degrees flf Nootka, and probably the inhabitants of that place never heard [ of tbefe Spaniih ihips. CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE. 45S From their general ufe of this metal, it probibly comes from fome conftant fource, in the way of traffic, and they have perhaps been long fupplied with it ; for they ufe their tools with as much dexterity as the longed practice can acquire. The moft natural conjedure, therefore, is, that they trade for their iron with other Indian tribes, who may have fome communication with European fettlements upon the continent, or receive it through feveral intermediate nations. By the fame means they probably obtain their brafs and copper. Not only the rude materials, but fome manufactured articles feem to find their way hither. The brafs orna* ments for nofes are made in lb mafterly a manner, that 'f the Indians cannot be fuppofed capable of fabricating them* We are certain ^ that the materials are European, as all the American tribes are ignorant of the method of making brafs ; though copper has been frequendy met with, and, from its dudility, might eafily be fafhion- ed into any fhape, and polifhed. If fuch articles are I not ufed by our traders to Hudfon's Bay and Canada, in their traffic with the natives, they muft have been in- troduced at Nootka from Mexico ; whence, it is proba-r ble, the two fllver table fpoons were originally derived. Little knowledge can we be fuppoled to have ac- quired of the political and religious inilitutions eilabliffi- ed among thefe people. We difcovered, however, that there were fuch men as chiefs, diftinguilhed by the title lof Qcweeky to whom the others are, in fome degree, fubordinate. But the authority of each of thefe great; Imen, feems to extend no farther than to his own family, Iwho acknowledged him as their head. As they were Inot all elderly men, it is poffible this title may be here- [ditary. Nothing that we faw could give us any infight into lieir notions of religion, except the figures already' lentloned, called Klumma, Thefe, perhaps, were idols ; |iut as the word acweek was frequently mentioned when liey fpoke of them, we may fuppofe them to be the ages of fome of their anceftors, whofe memories they . ^ L 2 veaer^tc^ 454 CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE. venerate. This, however, is all conje^ure, for we could receive no information concerning them ; knowing lit- tie more of their language than to enahle us to aik the names of things, and heing incapable of holding any converfation with the natives, relative to their traditions, or their inflitutlons. Their language is neither harfh nor diiagreeable, farther than proceeds from their pronouncing the k and if with lefs foftnefs than we do. As to the compofitioQ of their language, we are enabled to fay but little. It may, however, be inferred, from their flow and diilin^ method of fpeaking, that it has few prepofitons or con- junctions, and is deflitute of even a iingle interje^ion to exprefs furprize or admiration. The affinity it may bear to other languages, we have not been able fuffi- ciently to trace, not having proper fpecimens to com- pare It with ; but, from the few Mexican words we have procured, there is an obvious agreement, through- out the language, in the frequent terminations of the words in /, //, or z. The word wakajh was frequently in tbe mouths of | the people of Nootka. It feemed to exprefs approba^ tion, applaufe, and friendfhip. Whenever they ap-j peared to be pleafed or fatisned at any fight or occur- rence, they would call out wakajh I wakajb I It is won I thy of remark, that as thefe people fo elFentially difFep from the natives of the iflands in the Pacific Ocean, in their perfons, cuftoms, and language, we cannot fup- pofe their refpedlive progenitors to have belonged to the fame tribe, when they emigrated into thofe places | where we now find their deicenaants. } - - 1 . . , -....,. . I «... '■■*■■■ a StOFf/l' Ships i Cro/s I of Kay broke-*- find In Boats'-^ Progre/, to exam, leave th A nifeft indii figos did I the Sound |.byE. and iky being i apprehenfi would exj the tacks oi S.W. It no further I next mori Captain ClI Commodof bthvefleli blew with und hazy. noon, thed CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 4S^ A Storm-^The Re/ohaion /prings a Leak — Progreft of the Ships along the North American Qoaji — An Inlet named Crofs Sound — Beerin^s Bay-^Cape Suckling — Account of Kaye^s JJland^^ur Ships anchor near Cape Hinching'^ broke'^The Natives vifit us-^Their Fondnefs for Beads and Iron — Their daring Attempt to carry uffoneofowr Boats~^Tbey alfo attempt to plunder the Difcovery ^ Progrefs up the Sound^^Mr Gore and the Mqfter fent to examine its Extent-^-^M^ntague Ifland-^'^Tbe Ships , leave tb^ Sound* WE have already mentioned, that we put to fea, in the evening of the 26th of April, with ma-r nlfeft indications of an approaching florm ; and thefe figaa did not deceive us. We had fcarce failed out of the Sound, when the wind fhifted from N. E» to S, E. [by £. and blew a flron^ gale, with fqualls and rain, rh^ (ky being at the fame time uncommonly dark. Being apprehenfive of the wind's veering more to the S. which would expofe us to the danger of a lee-fhore, we got the tacks onboard, and made all the fail we could to the S. W. It fortunately happened, that the wind veered I no further towards the S. than S. E. fo that, early the next morning, we were entirely clear of the coaft. Captain Gierke's (hip being at fome diftance aflem, the Commodore brought to, till ihe came up, and then^ both veflels fleered a north-wefterly courfe. The wind blew with great violence, and the weather was thick ^nd hazy. Between one and two o'clock in the after* noon, there was a perfe^ hurripane \ fo that the Com* piodor^ 45 it was laving, n fome B weftj ntinued igan tQ e to fee > the N. and our r. by K ards the tails and le courfe ading to he could ot where defirous Its point! ifideredJ lave en- 1 tetnpef- and,by| It twelve our Ion- re fteer- \. aridS. )Utfeven| the dif- I the next] W.the jieareft ■*^ 45S CAPTAIN C00K*8 THIRD VOYAGE. c^omontory, which we diftinguiflied by the name of| Crofs Cape. To the point under the above-mentioned peaked mountain, we ^ave the name of Cape Fair Weather. At noon, this cape was diftant twelve or thirteen leagues. We had now light breezes from the N. W. which continued fevcral days. We fteered to the S. W. and W. S. W. till the morning of the 4th, when we tacked and flood towards the fhore. At twelve o'clock, Mount Fair Weather bore N. 63 d. E. and the (hore under itj "was about a dozen leagues diflant. This mount is thei higheft of a chain or ridge of mountains, that rife at the] north weftern entrance of Crofs Sound, and extendi towards the N. W. parallel with the coaft. Thefe mountains were covered with fnow, from the higheft| fummit down to the fea coaft ; except a few places, where we could difcern trees that fecmed to rife, as iRTere, from the fea. About five o'clock in the afternoon the top of a high mountain appeared above the horizon, bearing N. 26 d. W. and as we afterwards found, neai forty leagues diflant. We fuppofed that it was thi Hiount St Elias of Commodore Beering. We faw, ii the courfe of this day,feveral porpoifes, feals,and whales alfo great numbers of gulls, and many flocks of bird: which had a black circle about the ^ead, and a blac band on the tip of the tail and upper part of the wingi the reft being white below and blueift\ above. We like wife obferved a brownifli duck, with a blackifli or dan blue head and neck. As we had light winds, with occafional calms, we pn ceeded but flowly. On the 0th, at mid-day, the nearel land was at the diftance of about eight leagues. In north eafterly direction, there appeared to be a ba and an ifland near its fouthern point, covered wit wood. This is probably the place where Beerini anchored. Southward of the bay (which Captain Coo] named Beering's Bay, in honour of its difcovcrer) " ridge of mountains, already mentioned, is interrupt by a plain of fevcral leagues la extent, beyond wki< - ■ ■ . t perceiv on each confide and th£ Krogrel L 30 ( mounts of 219 belongs be recK( feparate On t about tl: dnent, ' W. T( ifland, i the Con the nort the cape able hei low lane appeara which mod w: pairing all our proved out, ha^ towards proache< from th« iflands ii cape anc Vol. II. CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 459 the fight was unbounded. In the afternoon, we found- ed, and foutid a muddy bottom at the depth of about feventy fathoms. Soon afterwards, having a light northerly breeze, we fteered to the weftward ; and at noon, the next day, we were at the diftance of four or five leagues from the (bore. From this ftation we could perceive i bay under the high land, whh low woodland on eacl^ fide of it. We now found that the coaft trended confiderably to the W. and as we had but little wind, and that chiefly from the weftward, we made a flow progrefs. On the 9th, about noon, Mount St Elias bore N. 30 d. E. at the diftance of nineteen leagues. This mountain ftands twelve leagues inland, in the longitude of 219 d. E. and in the latitude of 60 d. 27 m. N. It belongs to a ridge of very lofty mountains, which may be reckoned a kind of continuation of the former, being ieparated from them only by the plain before mentioned. On Sunday the loth, at twelve o'clock, wc were about three leagues diftant from th»i coaft of the con-- tinent, which extended from E. half N. to N. W. half W. To the weftward of the latter diredion was an ifland, at the diftance of fix leagues. A point, which tfie Commodore ndmed Cape Suckling, proj.eds towards the north eaftern end of this ifland. The extremity of the cape is low ; but, vvithin it, ftands a hill of confider- able height, which is divided from the mountains by low land ; fo that the Cape, at a diftance, has an infular appearance. On the N. fide of Cape Suckling is a bay, which feemcd to be extenfive, and to be fheltered from mod winds. Captain Cook had fome thoughts of re- . pairing to this bay, in order to ftop the leak of his fhip, ail our endeavours to effe£k that purpofe at fea having proved fruitlefs. We therefore fteered for the cape; but, having only Variable light breezes, we advanced towards it flowly. Before night, however, we had ap- proached near enough to fee lome low land projeding from the cape t6 the N* W. we alfo obferved fome little iflands in the bay, and feveral elevated rocks between the cape and the ^noFth-edftern extremity of the ifland. A» Vol. 11. N''. 38. . ^ 3M there 4^0 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE* there appeared to be a paflagc on each fide of thefc rocks, we continued fleering thither the whole night. Early the next morning, the wind (hifted from N, E. to N. This being againfl us, the Commodore relinquifli- ed his defign of going into the ba}r, and bore up for the W. end of the ifland. There being a calm about ten o'clock, he embarked in a boat, and landed on the ifland, with a view of feeing what lay on the other fide ; hut finding that the hills were ,at a greater diftancc than he expected, and that the w^ay was woody and fteep, he laid afidc that intention. On a fmall eminence near the fhore, he left, at the foot of a tree, a bottle containing a papei*, on which the names of our (hips, and the date of | cur difcovery, were infcribed: he alfo inclofed two filver two-penny pieces of Englifti coin, which, with many others, had been furniflied him by Dr Kaye, now Dean of Lincoln ; and in teftimony of his efteem for that gentleman, he didinguifhed the ifland by the name of Kaye*s Ifland. This ifle does not exceed twelve leagues in length, and its breadth is not above a league and a half in any part of it. The S. W. point, whole latitude is 59 d. 49 m, N. and longitude 2 16 d. 58 m. E. is a naked rock, con- fiderabljr elevated above the land within it. There is alfo a high rock lying off it, which, when feen in feme particular directions, has the appearance of a ruinous caftle. The ifland terminates, towards the fea, in bare floping cliffs, with a beach confifting of large pebbles, intermixed in fome places with a clayey fand. The cliffs are compof ed of a blueifh ftone or rock, and are, \ except in a few parts, in a foft or mouldering flate. Some parts of the ihorc are interrupted by fmall valiiesj and gullies, in each of w^hich a rivulet or torrent rufhes 1 down with a confiderable degree of impetuofity; though, perhaps, only furnifhed from the mow, and lafting no longer than till the whole is diffolved. Thefe vallies are filled with pine trees ; and they alfo abound in other parts of the ifland, which, indeed, is covered, as it| were, with a broad girdle of wood. The trees, how- ever,] CAPTAIN COOK'a THIRD VOYAGE. 461 lever, are far from being of an extraordinary growth; few of them feeming to be larger than what a perfon might grafp round with his arms, and their general height being forty or fifty feet; fo that they would be of no great lervice for (hipping, except as materials for making top-gallanl-mafts, and other fmall things. The pine trees appeared to be all of one fpecies ; and neither [the Canadian pine, nor cyprefs, was to be feen. Upon the edges of the cliffs, the furface was covered Iwith a kind of turf, about fix inches thick, apparently compofed of the common mofs ; and the upper part of the ifland had nearly the fame appearance in point of colour; but that which covered it, whatever it' was, Ifeemed to be thicker. Among the trees were fome cur- Irant and hawberry bufhes, a yellow flowered violet, and Ithe leaves of other plants not yet in flower, particularly lone which was fuppofed by Mr Anderfou to be the hcm iracleum of Linnasus, A crow was feen flying about the wood ; two or three [white headed eagles, like thofe of Nootka, were alfo lobferved ; befides another fpecies equally large, which |had a white breaft. The Commodore likewife faw, in ^is paflage from the fl^ip to the fhore, a number of fowls Ifitting on the water, or flying about ; the principal of fhich were gulls, burres, fhags, ducks or Urge petrels, Jivers, and quebrantahuefles. The divers were of two forts ; one very large, whofe colour was black, with a frhite belly ana bread ; the other of a fmaller fize, with [longer and more pointed bilk The ducks were alfo bf two fpecies ; one brownifh, with a dark blue or blackiih head and neck ; the other fmaller, and of a iirty black colour. The fliags were large and black, paving a white fpot behind the wings. The gulls were pf the common fort, flying in flocks. T here was alfo ifingle bird flying about, apparendy of the gull kind, n\iok colour was a fnowy white, witn fome black along art of the upper fide of its wings. At the place where ur party landed, a fox came from the verge of the lood, and eying them with little emotion, walked ^Mz leUurely :i !l 4tfl CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. leifurely on w'thout manifefting any figns of fear. He was not of a large fize, and his colour was a reddiih yellow. Two or three rinall feals were likewise feen near the fliore ; but no traces were difcovcrcd of inha- bitants hiving ever been in the ifland. Captain Cook, with thofe who accompanied him, returned on board in tlie afternoon, and, with a light breeze from the E. ftecred for the S. W. fide of the illand, whicli we got round by ei^ht o'clock in the evening : we then ftood for the wefternmoft land that was now in fight. At the N. E. end of Kaye's Ifland Hands anotlier illand, extending N. W. and S. E. about nine miles, to within the fame diftance of the northf weftern boundary of the bay mentioned before, to which the appellation of Comptroller's Bay was given. Early the next morning Kaye's Ifland was Hill in fighr, beanng E. by S. and, at this time, we were at the dif- tance of four or five leagues from the main. At noon, the eaftem point of a Ipacious inlet bore W. N. W, about three leagues diftant. From Comptroller's Bay to this point, which the Commodore named Cape Hinchingbroke, the direction of the coaft is nearly E. and W. Beyond this, it appeared to incline towards the S. a diredion very different from that which is marked out in the modern charts, founded on the late tiifcoveries of the Ruffians ; infomuch that we had feme reafon to expe<^, that we ihould find, through the inlet befoie us, a paiTage to the N. and that the land to the W. and S. W. was a group of iflands. The wind was now fouth-eafterly, and we were menaced with a fog and llorm ; and Captain Cook was defirous of get- ting into fomc place to flop the leak, before we had another gale to encounter. We therefore (leered for the inlet, which we had no footer reached, than the weather became exceedingly foggy, and it was deeined neceffary that the (hips ihould oe fecured in feme place or other, till the ffey ihould clear up. With this view we hauled clofe under Cape Hinchingbroke, and fail anchor before a fmali cove, over a clayey bottom, h i eight CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 461 light fathoms water, at the diftance of about two fur- fongs from the fiiore. Soon after we had anchored, the boats were hoifted out, iome to li(h, and others to found. The feine, at hie fame time, was drawn in the cove ; but without j'uccefs, as it was torn. At intervals, the foe cleared pway, and gave us a view of the neighbouring land. The tape was one league diftant ; the weftern point of Ihe inlet, five leagues ; and the land on that fide exten('- W to W. by N. Between this point and N. W. by W. fve could difcern no land. The mod wefterly point we jad in view on the N. fhore, was at die diftance of two eagues. Betwixt this point, and the Qiore under which Dur (hips now lay at anchor, is a bay about three leagues ieep, on the fouth-eaftern fide of which are feveral oves ; and, in the middle, ftand fome rocky iflands. Mr Gore was difpatched in a boat to thele iflands, ia rder to (hoot fome birds that might ferve for food. e had fcarcely reached them, when about twenty na- ives appeared, in two large canoes ; upon which he turned to the (hips, and they followed him. They ere unwilling, however, to venture alongfide, but kept italitde diftance, fhouting aloud, and clafping and ex- ending their arms alternately. They then began a ind of fong, much after the manner 01 the inhabitants if King George's or Nootka Sound, Their heads were rewed with feathers, and one of them held out a white ;arment, whicli we ftippofed was intended as a token of iendfliip ; while another, for near a quarter of an hour» ;ood up in the canoe, entirely naked, with his arms ex- ended like a crofs, and motionlefs. Their canoes were onftrudted upon a different plan from thofe of Nootka, "he frame confifted of flender laths, and the outlide as formed of the fkins of feals, or other animals of a imilar kind. Though we returned their figns of amity, md endeavoured, by the moft expreffive geftures, to courage them to come alongfide, we were unable to revail upon them. Though fome of our people re- eated feveral of the moft ^oranxDX^ words- of the lan- guage 4^4 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE, guagc of Nootka, fuch as makook and feekemailc, the^ did not appear to underftand them. After they had received fome prefents that were thrown to them, the^ retired towards the fhore, intimating, by figns, that the\ would pay us another vifit the next morning. TwooJ them, however, came off to us in the night, each in fmali canoe ; hoping, perhaps, that they might find ui all afleep, and might have an opportunity of pilfering- for they went away as foon as they perceived themfelve difcovered. The wind, during the night, blew hard and in fquallsJ •with rain, and thick hazy weather. The next morning] about ten, the wind becoming more moderate, and thd ■weather in lonie meafure clearing up, we got up ouj anchors and made fail, in order to fearch for fome conJ venient place where we might ftop the leak, as our preJ fent ftation was too much expofed for that purpofeJ Captain Cook at firft propofed to have gone up the hA before which our ihips had anchored ; but he was af-j ter wards induced by the cleamefs of the weather, fleer towards the N. further up the great inlet. Afte ■we had palfecl the N. W. point of the above-mentioned bay, we found that the coaft, on that fide, inclined tc the eaftward. We did not follow it, hut proceeded or our courfe to the northward, for a point of land wiiid we obfcrved in that direction. Tl e Americans who had viiited us the preceding day, came off igain in fhe morning, in five or fix cai noes ; but as they did not come till after w; were undeij fail, they were unable to reach the (hips, though the) followed us for a confidcrable time. In the afternoonj before two o'clock, the unfavourable weather returned] with fo thick a haze, that we could difcemno other land but the point juft mentioned, off which we arrived be-| tween four and five o'clock, and found it to be a little ifland, lituate at thediftance of alL»ut two miles from the neij^h'^ouring coaft, being a point of land, on the eafter fide of which we diibovered an excellent bay, or ratheij harbour, To thi^^ we plijed up, while the wind ble^ carry. ime manne one of the id in the ot the length wings of '( Id up to U! ;nttnefe tl I, between :, in both itured on leofourp 'le who car afterwa leofthef |ch a cap as ""led with puethefemi of beads, ong thefe we « .V CAPTAIN COOK'6 THIRD VOYAGE. 465 |n very hard fqualls, accompanied with rain. Though, Lt fome intervals, we could fee land in every diredion, U, in general, there was fo great a fog» tliat we could Inly perceive the fhores of the bay for which we were low fteering. In palling the ifland, we found a mud- ly bottom, at the depth of iwenty-fix fathom. Not Lg after, we found fixty and feventy fathoms, over I rocky bottom ; and, in the entrance of the bay, the lepth of water was from thirty to fix fathoms. At length, about eight o'clock, we were obliged by the fcolence of the Iqualls, to call anchor in thirteen fa- lioms water, before we had proceeded fo far into the lay as the Commodore intended ; but we thought our- llves fortunate in having the fhips already iecured ; m the night was extremely tempelluous. I Though the weather was fo turbulent, the natives lere not deterred from paying us a vifit. Three of Bem came off in two canoes ; two men in one, and tie in the other, being the number that each canoe luld carry. For they were conftru£ted nearly in the Bme manner with thofe cf the Efquimaux, except that ■one of them were two holes for two perfons to fit in, Bid in the other but one. Thefe men had each a ftick, ■the length of about three feet, with the large feathers, ■wings of birds, faftened to it. Thefe they frequently Hdup to us, probably as tokens of peace. The ireat- Bent tnefe three received, induced manv others to vifit ■, between one and two o'clock the iciiowing morn- Ig, in both great and fmall canoes. Some of them, Rntured on board the Refolution, though not before lone of our people had ftepped into their boats. Among }Oie who came on board, was a middle aged man, who, ] we afterwards found, was the chief. His drels was pde of the (kin of ^he fea otter, and he had on his head ^h a cap as is worn by the inhabitants of Nootka, em- liflied with fky-blue glafs beads. He appeared to fue thefe much more than our white glafs beads. Any of beads, however, feemed to be in high f llimati ii ong thefe people, who readily jave in exchange for a66 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. CA being, to This a equal to Gierke's f] as having tion to the ter; wher ferving no or two oth for them whatever they had, even their fine lea oiterl fkins. <. They were very defirous of iron,biit abfolutely rejede fmall bits, and wanted pieces nine or ten inches long ai leaft, and of the bretidth of three or four fingers. I'he obtained but litde of this commcdity from us, as, b this time, it was become rather fcarce. The points ol fome of their fpears were of this metal ; nth(^-s were oj copper ; and a few were of bone ; of which laft thi points of their arrows, darts, &x. were formed. The chief could not be prevailed upon to ventun below the upper deck, nor did he and his companionB plundered continue long on board. While they were with us, il lome dift^r was necefliiry to watch them narrowly, as they fooiBably with i manifeftcd an inclination for thieving. At length, whefl Several of they had been three or four hour< aiF ^trfide the RefoiuMmony, and tion, they all quitted her, and. rep 'r : 3 the Difcovejficer, and t] which fhip none of them had before been on board oJ began to Tea except one man, who came from her at this very tiim and immediately returned to her, in company wiiliti ethers. As focn as they had departed Lorn ourlhi Captp' 1 Cook difpatched a boat to found the head the bay ; for, as the wind was moderate at prefent, had an intention of laying the fhip afhore, if a pro^ place could be found for the procefs of flopping the leal Soon afterwards all the Americans quitted the Difcove] and made their way towards our boat that w?s empio ed in founding. The officer, who was in h^u chkm their approach, returned to the fhip, and .'* \h^ cam followed him. The crew of the boat tiixd Tj fooni repaired on board, leavirg in her, by way of guaid,t of tiieir number, thanfeveral of the natives fleppedini her ; fome of whom preiented their fpears before " two men, while others loofed the rope by which was faftened to the fhip, and the reft were fo daring to attempt to tow her away. But xh?. moment thj faw that we were preparing to oppc . k'hem, they her go, flepped out of her into their cwk buats, hold of was immediatelj had continue to find anoti crew were a lalTes, came i ers all faeak^ ofindifferen occupied in land the natii terthedifa very. ThI lundoubtediyf ■liattheyfliol From the iWy be inii [th fire armi '£(5, they mpt carryii le face of ur efoiutions ftant of th( Vol.lI,».No| CAPTAIN COOK»8 THIRD VOYAGJS. Afil ma^- figns to us to perfuade us to lay down our arms, l>eing, to all appearance, perfedly unconcerned, . - « This attempt, though a very bold one, was fcarce equal to what they had meditated on board Captain Gierke's ftiip. The man whom we mentioned before as having condu(fted his countrymen from the Refolu- tion to the Difco very, had firft been on board of the lat- ter; where, looking down all the hatchways, and ob- ferving no one except the officer of the watch, and one or two others, he doubtlefs imagined that fhe might be plundered with eafe, particuUrly as (he was ftationed at I lome dift?ince from the Refolution. It was unqueftioa- j ably with this intent, that the natives went off to her. [Several of them went on board without the leaft cere- mony, and drawing their knives, made figns to the of- ficer, and the other people upon deck, to keep off, and began to fearch for plunder. The firft thing they laid hold of was the rudder of one of our boats, which they linimediately threw overboard to thofe of their party who Ihad continued in the canoes. But before they had time Ito find another objedt that llruck their fancy, the fhip's Icrew were alarmed, and many of them, armed with cut- mlTes, came upon deck. On obferving this, tl^ plunder- lers all fneakci off into their canoes, with evident marks lot indifference. It was at this time, that our boat was loccupied in founding, as we have already mentioned ; land the natives, without delay, proceeded towards her, bfter the difappointraent they had met with at the Dif- Icovery. Their vifiting us lo early in the morning was lundoubtedly with a view of plundering, on a fuppofitioa pat they (hould find all our people afleep. From the circumftances above related, it may reafbn- jibly be inferred, that thefe people are not acquainted »ith fire arms. For. had they known any thing of their IFed, they would by no means have ventured to at* empt carrying off a boat fi'om under a (hip's guns, in k face of upwards of a hundred men ; for mcS; of the Hefolution's people were looking at them, at the very ttftant of their making the attempt. However, wt Vol.ll~N»38. ^N left |-;|P m l*;| i (i 3'V''i 469 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. left them as ignorant, in this particular, as we found them ; for they neither faw nor heard a mufquet fired, except at birds. As we were on the point of weighing anchor, in order to proceed further up the bay, the wind began to blow as violently as before, and was attended with rain ; infomuch that we were obliged to bear away the cable again, and lie fad. In the evening, perceiving that the Bale did. not abate, and thinking that it might be fome time before an opportunity of getting higher up pre- fented itfelf,the Commodore was determined to heel the 'Tiip in our prefent ftation ; and, with that view, caufed vier to be moored with a kedge-anchor and hawfer. One of the failors, in heaving the anchor out of the boat,] was carried over board by the buoy-rope, and accom- panied the anchor to the bottom, in this very hazard- ous fituation, he had fufiicient prefence of mind to dif- engage himfelf, and come up to the furface of the water, where he W'as immediately taken up, with a danger- ous fradure in one of his legs. Early the following! morning, we heeled the fhip, in order to flop the leakj which, on ripping off the fheathing, was found tobei the feams. While the carpenters were employed in thii bufmefs, others of our people filled the water ca:' at a flream not far from our flation. The wind had by this time, confiderably abated; but the weathei was hazy, with rain. The Americans paid us anothei vifit this morning : thofe who came off firfi, were i fmall canoes ; others arrived afterwards in large ones, 1 one of thefe great canoes were twenty women and oni man, befides feveral children. On Saturday the i6ih, towards the evening, thi weather cleared up, and then we found ourfelvcs enco paffed with land. Our ftation was on the eaflern fi of the Sound, in a place diftinguifhed by the appellatioi of Snug Comer Bay. Captain Cook, accompanied ^ fome of his officers, went to take a furvey of the head it ; and they found that it was fheltered from all wiiif and had a muddy bottom at tlic depth of from fcvcn thri und jed, r, in mto rain; cable It the feme ) pre- ;el the :aufed awfer. e boat, I ccom- >azard- to dif- water,, lan^er- lowingl hcleakj to be in linth'd ir caika id had) weathefl anothd •were \i nes. 1^ and onl ng, thi encoi lernfi pellatioi anied ^' 2 head 11 wini fcvcn thri Ci three fatht wooded, ', covered v woods. 1 were cove greater dif rocks, invc The leal we weighe ing, and fl at E. N. E cans vif ited to gratily t traffic witl I weftern po j obferved tt fame chan] circumflani of a pallag did not ma the point ground anc eduSjand v 10 that we 1 from the ds jbout one fathoms wi leagues to tl I the weathei I cleared up ; of all the i nonh, wher I little hope c Ihe might be jCook lent \ |th?northerf jMafter, witl jthat fecmed burned at i CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. Ah three fathoms* The land near the (hore is low; partly wooded, and partly clear. The clear ground was covered with inow, but very little remained in the woods. The fummits of the hills in the neighbourhood were covered with wood; but thofe that were at a greater didance inland, had the appearance of naked rocks, involved in fnow. . The leak of the Refolution being at length (lopped, we weighed anchor on the 17th, at four in the morn- ing, and fleered a N. W. courfe, with a gentle breeze at E^. N. E. Soon after we had made fail, the Ameri- cans vif ited us again, feemingly with no other view than to gratify their curiofity, for they did not enter into any traffic with us. When we had reached the- north- weftern point of the arm wherein we had anchored, we obferved that the flood tide came into the inlet, by the fame channel through which we had entered. This , circumflance did not much contribute to the probability of a paifage to the north through the inlet, though it not make entirely againft it. After we had pafTed [the point juft mentioned, we met with much foul ground and many funken rocks. The wind now fail- 'cd us,and was fucceeded by calms and variable light airs, Ifothatwehad fomc difficulty in extricating ourfelvca from the danger that threatened us. At laft, however, jbout one o'clock, we caft anchor in about thirteen fathoms water, under tjie eaftem Ihore, about four leagues to the northward of our laft ftation. Though the weather, in the morning, had been very hazy, it cleared up afierwards, io as to afford us a diftiod view of all the furrounding land, particularly towards the north, where it appeared to clofe. This gave us but little hope of meetmg with a paflTage that way. That Ihe might be enabled to form a better judgment, Captaia [Cook Tent Mr Gore, with two armed boats, to examine the northern arm ^ and at the fame time difpatched tho iMaftcr, with two other boats, to furvey another arm ■that feemed to incline towards the eaft. Both of them piirned ^x night. The Mafter informed the Commo- 3 N 2 dPWi '4io. CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOtACJE. ddre, that the arm, to which he had been feW, toitamu- Hicated With that we had laft quitted, and that one fide of it was formed by a clufter of iflands. Mr Gore re- ported, that he had feen the entrance of an arm, which, he thought, fextended a very confiderable Way to the liOTth-eanward, and by whicn a paflage might probably be found. On the other hand, Mr Roberts, Oti6 of the Mates, who had ii;ccompanied Mr Gore on this Occafion, gave it as his opinion, that they faw the head of this arm. The variation of thefe two opinions, and the cir- cnmftance before mentioned of the flood tide entering the inlet from the fouth ward, rendered the exiftence of a'paflage this ivay extremely uncertain. Captain Cook therefore determmed to employ no more tiihe in feck- Iti^ a paflage in i. phc^ that afforded fo fmall a profped oi fuccefs, particularly as the wind was now become favourable for getting out to fea. The next morning, about three o'clock, we weighed, and made fail to the louthward down the inlet, with a light northerly breeze. We met with the fame broken ^ound as on the preceding day, but foon extricated durfelves from it. We were enabled to ihorten our| way out to fea, by difcovering another pailage into this Inlet, to the S. W. of that by which we entei-ed. It is feparated from the other, fey an ifland that extends, dghteen leagues in the dire.'4,. 48o CAPTAIN COOK»a THIRD VOYAGE. fort. The Ikins of feals and bears were alfo pretty cnm- iiion ; and the former were in general white, beautifully fpotted with black, or fometimes fimply white ; and | many of the bears here were of a dark nrown hue.' Befides thefe animals, there is here the white bear I of wliofe fkins the natives brought feveral pieces, and fome complete (kins of cubs. There is alfo the wolve- rene, or quickhatch, whofe flcin has very bright colours; and a Jarger fpecies of ermine than the common one,! varied with brown, and having icarcely any black on its tail. The fkin of the head of fome very large animal was likewife brought to us, but we could not pofidvely * decide what it was ; though, from the colour and fhag- ginefs of the hair, and its not refembling any land animal, we conjedured that it might be that of the male I «riine ieal, or lea bear, J3ut one of the moft beautiful fldns that fell under our obfervatipn, is that of a fmall | animal near a foot in length, of a brown colour on thej back, with a number of obfcure whitiQi fpecks, the fides being of a blueifli a(h colour, v;ith a few of thefe fpecks. The tail is about a third part of the length of the bodyj ^nd is covered with whitifli hair. This animal is doubt- Jefs the fame with that which is called by Mr StsehlinJ in his account of the New Northern Archipelago, the' fpotted field moufe. But whether it is really of the I moufe kind, or a fquirrel, we could not determine, for j want of entire fkins ; tb.ough Mr Anderfon was inclined to imagine, that it is the fame aninjal which Mr Pennant | hasdefcribed under the appellation of the Cafan marmcr. The great number of fkins that we obferved here, de- monftrates the abundance of the various animals we have mentioned; but it is fomewhat remarkable, that | we neither met with the fkins of the moofe, nor of thcj common fpecies of deer. With refpe^ to birds, we found here the bakyon, or | great king fiflier, which had fine bright colours j the riiag ; tk^iUvhite headed eagle ; and the humming bird, ivhich oftien flew about our fliips, while we lay ati ^chorj though it can fcar/'rly be fuppofed to live here / ■' . " •■ during CAPTAIN ^OOK'g THIRD VOYAGE. 45 X during the winter, wliich muft be extremely fevcre. The water fowl feen by us were black fea pyes, with red bills, fucli as we met with in New Zealand and Vdn Diemen's Land ; geefe ; a fmall fort of duck, nearly refembling that fpecies we faw at Kerguelen's Land ; and another fort with which none of us were acquaint- ed. Some of our people who went aQiore, killed a fnipe, a groufe, and fome plovers. But though the water fowl were numerous, particularly the geefe and ducks, they were fo (hy that it was fcarce poflible to get within (hot ; in confequence of which, we procured a very inconfiderable fupply of them as refreflimcnt. The duck before mentioned is about the fize of the common wild duck, of a deep black, with red feet, and 1 a Ihort pointed tail. Its bill is white, tinged towards the point with red, and has a Inrgc black fpot, almoil Ifquare, near its bafe,on each (ide, where it is alfo fomc- what diftended. On the jreheaid is a large triangular white fpot; and on the hinder part of the neck is one ftill larger. The colours of the female are confideradDly duller than thofe of the male ; and it has none of the ornaments of the. bill, exceptin/r the two black ipots, I which are rather obicure. A fpecies of diver, which feems peculiar to this place, Iwas obferved here. It is equal to a partridge in fize, and has a (hort, black, comprefled bill. Its head, and the upper part of its neck, are o£ a brownifli black ; amd the remainder of its body is of a deep brown, obfcurely wavied with black, except the under part, which is to- tally of a blackifh caft, minutely varied with white. Wc alfo found a fmall land bird, of (he finch kind, about th« fize of a yellow hammer ; but we imagined it to be one lof thofe which change their colour with the feafon, and Iwith their different migrations. It was, at this time, of la dufky brown, with a reddiih tail ; and the fuppofed Imale had, on thecrown of the head, a large yellow fpot,, Iwitli fome varied black on the upper part of its neck; but the latter was on the bread ol the female. The filh that were principally brought to us by the, natives 4S2 ' eAt^tAlN Cook's tHlRD VOtACSE. - tkkthts tot fale, ^ttt toffk ind halibut ; and ^t tau^hf fomefculpins about the ihip, Vvith ilar ii(h of a purp]i(h| hue^ that had fixteen or eighteen ray^ The rocks werel almoft deftitute of diet! filh ; and the only other afiimalf of this tribe that wad obibryed by us^ was a reddish cfab] covered with very large fpines. The metals feen by us were iron and copper ; boti Whkh, but more particularly the former, were in fucli abundance, as to form the points of numbers of their latiCcS and arrows. Tlie oreS which they made ufe oj to paint thcmfelves with, were a brittle, undtuous, red *^hre, or iroti ore; a pigment of a briijht blue; atid black leadl Each of thefc Teemed to be very fcarc^ among themt We ohfervfcd few vegetables of any kind ; and the trees that chiefly grew about this foundj were the G ttadian and fpruce piclCj fome of which were of a coe Tiderable fi^e. Tliefe people muft, doubdefs, hate received fror fome more civilized natiotij the beads ahd iron foun^ among them.' We Were almoft ceriaitij that we Werett firft'Etiropeans with whom they had ever had a dire communication ; and it remains only to be determined from what ouarter they had procured OUr manufaftures by iritfermealate conveyance. And it is more thai probable, that they had obtained thefe articles, througj the ititerventloii or the more inland tribes^ eitlier frod the Jettlements about Hudfon's Bay^ or thofe onth] lakes of Canada ; unlefs we can admit the futopofidor that the Ruflians, from Kamtfchatka, have already tj lencied their traffic to this diftance ; or that the liativ^ -fiif their tftOft eafterly Fox Iflands ciirry on an intercOur along the coaft, with the inhabitants of Prince William] i^umd. With refped tb copper, thefe people, perhaps, pr(j cure it thetrifelves, or, at moft, it paffes to them throU| few hands ; fOr, when they ollered any of it by wa of barter, they ufcd to exprefs its being in fufficieil pletttyjamong them, by pomting to their weapons; ^ OAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 483 if they meant to intimate, that, as they had fo much cop- per of their owh, there was no occaiion for increafmg their flock. If, however, the natives of this inlet are furnifhed with European commodities by n^eans of the interme- diate traffic to the eaftern coaft, it i? rather remarkable, that they (hould never, in return, have fupplicd the more inland Indians with fome of their Tea otter (kins, wych would undoubtedly have appeared, at fome time, or other, in the environs of Hudlon's Bay. But that does not appear to be the cafe; and the only method I by which we can account for this, muft be by conlider- ing the very great diftance ; which, though it might not prevent European articles of commerce from coining fo far, as being fo uncommon, might hinder the fkms, which are common, frbm pafling through more than two or three tribes, who might make ufe of them for their own clothing, and fend others, which they reckoned of inferior value, as being of their own animals, towards the E. till they reach the traders at the European fettlements. Vol. II. N». 3«. 3F Proceed !)' , 4«4 (Captain cook's third voyage. Proceed along the Coajl — Cape Elizabeth — ^ape St Hems- genes — Beerings Voyage and Chart very deftflive-^Pomi Banks — Barren IJles — Cape Douglas — Cape Bede-^Momit St Augujiin — Endeavour to find a Pa/fage up an Jnkt-^ Both Ships make a Progrefs up it — Convincing Proofs of | . its being a. River — A Branch of it called River Turn- again — The great River named Cook^s River — The Ships return^- Several Vifitsfrom the Natives — Lieutenant Kin^ landsy difplays a I'lag^ and takes Pojfejfion of the Country — His Reception by the Natives-^-The Refolutim Jirikes upon a Bank — The high Tides accounted for. LEAVING Prince William's Sound, on Wednefday the 20th of May, we fteered to the S. W. with a gentle breeze ; which was fiicceeded by a calm at four o'clock the next morning, and that calm was foon after followed by a breeze from S. W. We continued to Itretch to the S. W. and paffed a lofty promontory, in the latitude of 59 d. 10 m. and the longitude of 207 d. 45 m. It having been difcovered on Princefs Elizabeth's I birth day, Captain Cook ^ave it the name of Cape Elizabeth. As we could lee no land beyood it, wei flattered ourfelves that it was the weftern extremity of the continent; but we were foon convinced that we were miftaken, freih land appearing in fight, bearing W. S. W. The wind had now increa^ to a ftrong gak, and forced us to a confiderabk dii^ance from the r:oa(l. On the 22 twelve leagues from Point | BanKs, and ten to the weftward of the Barren Ifles. The coaft feemed to form a large deep bay, between] this point and Cape Douglas ; which, from our obferv- ing fome fmoke upon Point Banks, received the namcl of Smokey Bay. On the 26th, at day break, being toj northward of the Barren Ifles, we perceived more landj extending from Cape Douglas to the N. It confifted of a chain of very high mountains; one of which, beingl much more confpicuous than the reft, obtained thcj name of Mount St Auguftin. We were not difcouraged at perceiving this land, fup-J poling it to be wholly unconneded with the land off ■ ' ' • Cape CAPTAIN COOK'« THIRD VOYAGE. 4«7 ;;ape Elizabeth. We alfo expelled to find a paflagc to he N. W. between Cape Douglas and Mount St iusuftin. It was, indeed, imagined, that the land to heN. of Cape Douglas, confided of a group of iflands, [eparated by fo many channels, any of which we might W chofen, according to the dire^flbn of the wind. Flattered with thefe ideas, and having a frefh gale at IN. TL we ftood to the N. W. till eight o'clock, when i?e were fully convinced, that what we had fuppofed to iflands, were fummita of mountains, conncdted by ie lower land, which we could not pevceive at a greater ijiftance, on account of the hazinel's of the horizon. lis land was covered wholly with fnow, from the tops ^f the mountains down to the fea beach ; and had, m ;very other refped, the appearance of a great continent, yaptain Cook was now fully convinced, that he flioiiid dilcover no paflagc by this inlet : and his perfevering the fearch of it, was more to fatisfy others, than to confirm his own opinion. Mount St Auguflin, at this time, bore N. W. about ree leagues diflant. It is of a vafl height, and of a 3iiical figure ; but whether it be an ifland, or part of |thc contment, is not afcertained. Perceiving that nothing was to be done to the W. we ftood over to Cape Elizabeth, under which we fetched at about five ia the ternoon. Between Cape Elizabeth and a lofty promontory, imed Cape Bede *, is a bay, in which there appeared Ito be two fnug harboun.. We ftood into this bay, and pght have anchored there in twenty-three fathoms [water ; but, the CommOvlore having no fuch intention, re tacked, and ftood to th? weft ward, with a very ftrong ale, accompanied with r lin and hazy weather. The l^ale abated the next moining, arte} about three o'clock V the afternoon, the weather cleared up : Cape Douglas bearing This name, and that of Mount St Auguftin, were dircdbcd hf Iwrcalendar. Jin CAPTAIN COOK'a THIRD VOYAGE. bearing S. W. by W. and the depth of water being fort J fathoms, over a rocky bottonr , I The coaft from Cape Bede, irended N. E. by E. wltjil a chain of mountains inland, in the fame dirtdion.-- On the coaft, the land was woody, and there appeared to be fome commodious harbours. We had the morti- fication, however, to difcover low land in the middle oi tiie inlet, extending from N. N. E. to N. E. by E. but] as it was fuppofed to be an ifland, we were not mucli difcouraged. About this time we fteered, with a lighn breeze, to the weftward of this iow land ; as, in thaj diredion, there was no appearance of obftruc^ion.- Our Ibundings were from thirty to twenty-five fathorasj In the naoming of the 28ith, having but little windj the ihip drove to the fouth^vard ; and, in order to ftof her, we dropped a kedge-anchor, with an eight-inclJ haufer. But, in bringing the fhip up, we loft both thafl and the anchor. We brought the (hip up, however] •with one of the bowers, and Ipent a confiderable pa?t d the day in fweeping for them, but without efFe£l. W( were now in the latitude of 59 d. 51 m. the low lane extended from N. E. to S. E. the neareft part dittanJ about two leagues. The land on the weftern fhord was diftant about feven leagues. A ftrong tide fet tc the fouth-ward, out of the inlet ; it was the ebb, and ran almoft four knots in an hour. At ten o'clock it was Ion water. Great quantities of fea-wced, and fome driftj wood, were taken out with the tide. Though the wa-| ter had become thick, and refembled that in rivers, we were encouraged to proceed, by finding it as fak as the ocean, even at low water. Three knots was the ftrengtl] of the flood tide ; and the ftreain continued to run u{ till four in the afternooia. Having a calm the whole day, we moved with a ligl: breeze at caft, at eight o'clock in the evening, and ftoc to the north up the inlet. The wind, foon afterj veered to the north, increafed to a frefh gale, and ble\ kk fqualls, with ibme rab. But this did not hinder froi CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 4«» iom plying up while the flood continued, which xrai5 Cjll the next morning, at near five o'clock. We had from thirty-live to twenty-four fathoms water. Wc anchored about two leagues from the eaftern fliore, rhere our latitude was 60 d. 8 m. fome low land, which ^e fuppofed to be an illand, lying under the weftern lore, cfiftant between three and four leagues. The weather having now become fair and clear, we could fee any land within our horizon ; W'hcn nothing ws vifible to obftru, women, and children, were con- jiained in the large canoes. At fome diftance, from the Ijhip, they exhibited, on a long pole, a kind of leathern jrock,* which we interpreted to be a fign of their peace- able intentions. They conveyed this frock into the ^ip, a& an acknowledgment for fome trifles which the Commodore had given them. No difierence appeared cither in the perfons, drefsj br canoes of thefe people, and the natives of Prince kViliiam's Sound, except that the fmall canoes were jiot fo large as thofe of the Suund, and carried only one aan. " • • We bartered with them for fome of their fur drefles^ Bade of tbic (kins of animals ; particularly thofe of fea liters, martins, and hares ; we alfo had a few of theit arts, and a fupply of falmon and halibut. We gave liem, in exchange for thefe, fome old clothes, beadsj od pieces of iron. They were already poflTeffed of large iron knives, nd glafs beads of a Iky blue colour, luch as we faw long the inhabitants of Prince William's Sound. The ^tter, as well as thofe which they received of us, they emed to value highly. Bot they ^ere particularly left in aflting Ibr large pieces of iron, to which they ave the name of ^oone ; though with them, as well iS |ilth their neighbours in the Sound, one Word feemed )have many lignifications. Their language is certain- [the fame ; the words oonaka, keeta^ and naemay and a others which were frequently ufed in Prince Wil- l's Sound, were alfo commonly ufed by this new B)e. After paflfing about two hours between the xw6 lips, they retired to the weftern (horie. [We anchored at nine o'clock, in fixtecn fathoms Vol. II.— N** 38. 3 (V^ water, ii 491 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. water, and almoft two leagues from the weftern (liore the ebb being already begun. It ran but three knots aii hour at its greateft ftrength; arid fell, after we iia( anchored, twenty one feet upon a perpendicular. Th weather was alternately clear and miily, with drizzlinj rain. When it was clear, we peiceived low larid be tween the mountains on the eaftern fhore, bearing from the ftation of the (hips, which we concluded to iilands between us an(! the main land. We alio behel) low land to the nci thward, w^hich appeared to extenj from the mountains on one fide, to thofe on the other ;ind, at low water, !arge Ihoals were feen, (Iretching oi from this low land, from fome of which we were not fj diftant. We doubted, from thefe ajppearances, wheth( the inlet did not take an eafterly diredion through tlj above . opening ; or whether that opening was cnlyl branch of it, the main channel contmuing its northeij direction. The chain of mountains, on each fide oi' ftrongly countenanced the latter I'uppofition. To be fatisfied of thcfe particulars. Captain Cook dil patched two boats ; and, when the flood tide made, fcf lowed with the two (hips : but it bein^ a dead calm, ar having a (Irong tide, we anchored, after driving abol ten miles. At the loAveft of the ebb, the water at 21 near tFie.furface was perfectly frefh; though retainir a confiderable degree of faltnefs if taken above a foj below it. We had this and many other corivincir proofs of its being a river : fuch as thick muddy watd low fliores, trees, and rubbifh of various kinds, floatiij backwards and forwards with the tide. In the afternc we received another vifit from the natives, in fevei canoes, w^ho trafficked confiderably with our peopj without fo much as attempting any diftioneft aaion.| At two o'clock in the morning of the firft of Jul the mafter, who commanded the two boats, return^ informing us that he found the inlet, or river, contra^ to one league in breadth, and that it took a northej courfe through low land on each fide. He advanc about three leagues through this narrow part, which | foi CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 45>3 fov bund from twenty to feventeen fathoms deep. While Ithe ftream ran down, the water was perfedly frefh ; but it became brackifh when it ran up, and very much |(o iowards high Water. He went afhore upon an ifland, between this branch lind that to the E. and faw fome currant bufhes ; and Tome bthcr fruit trees and buflies that were unknown to him. ^bout three leagues to the northward of this fearch, he iw another feparation in the eaftern chain of moun- m, through which he fiippofed it probable the river k a N. E. diredli^n ; but iliis, perhaps, was only other branch, and the main channel continued in a irthern direction between the two chains of mountains. The hopes of finding a paffage were no longer en- rtained ; but as the ebb was fpent, and we were unable return againft the tide, we took the advantage cf the liter* to get a clofer view of the eaftern branch ; in dcr to determine whether the low land, on the E. was ifland, or not. For this purpofe we weighed with lefirft of the flood, and ftood over for the eaftern (hore. eight o'clock a breeze fprung up in an oppofite direc- la to our courfe, fo that we defpaired of reaching the itrance of the river. The Commodore, therefore, dif- itched two boats, under the command of Lieutenant g, to make fuch obfervations as might enable us to inn fome tolerable idea of the nature of the river. We anchored, about ten o'clock, in nine fathoms er. The Commodore, obferving the ftrength of the le to be fo great, that the boats could not uuake head lind it, made a fignal for them to return before they id proceeded half way to the entrance of the river, le chief knowledge obtained by this tide's work, was, It all the low land, which we imagined to be an nd, was one continued tra6t from the great river to foot of the mountains, terminating at the S. entrance this eaftern branch, which the Commodore denomi- the river Turnagain. The low land begins k on the N. fide of this river, and extends from the It of the moyntains, to the bank? of the great river ; 3 0^2 forming, 494 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. forming, before the river Turnagaiq, £^ large bay, having ' from twelve to five fathoms water. After entering the bay, the flood fet very ftrong into the river Turnagain, and the ebb came out ftill flronger, the water falling twenty feet upon a perpendicular. From thefe circumftances, it plainly appeared, that a paflTage was not to be expeded by this Iide river, any more than by the main branch. But, as the water at ebb, though much freflier, retained a confiderable degree of faltnefs, it is probable that both thefe branches arc navigable by ihips much farther ; and that a very ex- tenfive inland communication lies open, by means of | this river and its feveral branches. We had traced it to . the latitude of 6i d. 30 m. and the longitude of 210 d. which is upwards of fcventy leagues from its entrance, and faw no appearance of its fource. The time we fpent in the difcovery of this great! river * ought not to be regretted, if it fhould hereafter prove ufeful to the prefent, or any future age. But the delay, thus occafioned, was an eftential lols to us, who had an objedl of greater magnitude in view". The feafon was far advanced ; and it was now evident that the! continent of North America extended much farther tol the W. than we had reafon to expert from the moftl \ approved charts. The Commodore, however, had the! fatisfadion to refled, that, if he had not examined thi» very large river, I'peculative fabricators of geograph would have ventured to alTert, that it had a communica^ tion with the fea to the N. or with Hudfon's or Baffin'^ Bay to the E. and it would probably have been marked on future maps of the world, with as much appearance of precifion, as the imaginary ftraits of de Fuca, and d^ Fonte. Mr F*ng was again fent, in the afternoon, with twii armed boats, with orders from Captain Cook to land on th * Captain Cook having here left a blank, Lord Sandwich ver judiciouOy directed it to be called Cook's River. the S. I flag; ar the cour a botde I772,ai our fhip the meai freih ea( fore a ca found it point wl of two 1 Pofleflioi OnM that whe twenty < attitude, difpofitic weapons, obferving andrequi them do and ther walk up foclable a They frefh fill happenir and, taki dead. A not thin walked a concealec clofe behi \ya8 fwan produced rofe and was not i When CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 49f the S. E. fide of the river, where he was to difplay the flag ; and in his Majefty's name, to take poffellion of the country and the river. He was alfo ordered to bury a botde in the earth, containing fome Englifh coin of J7y2, and a paper, whereon were written the names of our (hips, and the date of our difcovery. The (hips, in the mean time, were got under fail. The wind blew fre(h eafterly, but we had not been long under way be- fore a calm enfued ; and the flood tide meeting us, wc found it necefiliry to anchor in fix fathoms water ; the point where Mr King landed bearing S. at the diftance of two miles. This point of land was named Point PolTeiTion. On Mr King's return, he informed the Commodore, that when he approached the fhore, he faw eighteen or twenty of the natives with their arms extended ; an attitude, he fuppofed, meant to fignify their peaceable difpofition, and to convince him that tliey were without weapons. Seeing Mr King and his attendants land, and obferving mufquets in their hands, they were alarmed, and requefted (by exprellive figns) that they would lay them do\yn. This was immediately complied with, and then Mr King and his party were permitted to walk up to them, when they appeared to be very foclable and chearful. They had with them feveral dogs, and a few pieces of frefli (llmon. Mr Law, burgeon of the Difcovery, happening to be of the party, purchafed one of the dogs, and, taking it towards the boat, immediately (hot it dead. At this they feemed exceedir'gly fqrprized ; and, not thinking themfelves fafe in fuch company, they walked away ; but it prefently appeared, that they had concealed their fpears and other weapons in the bu(hes clofe behind them. Mr Kinginformed us,that :he ground was fwanipy, and the foil poor and light. It, however, produced fome pines, alders, birch, and willows ; fom.e rofe and currant bu(hes, and a litde grafs; but there was not a plant in flower to be feen. When it was high water wc vreigh^d al^chor, and, witk 49^ CAPtAIN COOK'S TiriRD VOYAGE, with a faint breeze, ftood over to the W. (hore, whero Vvre anchored early the next morning, on account of the return of the flood. Prefently after we were vilited by feveral of the natives, in canoes, who bartered their flvins, and afterwards parted with their gurmentf, many of them returning perfedly naked. Among others, they brought a great quantity of the fkins of white rabbits and red foxes, but only two or three of thofe of Citers. We alfo purchafed fome pieces of halibut and falmop. They gave iron the preference to every thiii}^ we offered them in exchange. The lip ornaments were lefs in falhion among them than at Prince William's Sound ; but thofe which pafs through the noft were more frequent, and, in general, confiderably longer. They had, likcwife, more embroidered work pn their garments, quivers, knife cafes, and many other article?. We weighed at half paft ten, and plied down the river with a gentle breeze at S. when, by the inattention of the man at the lead, the Refolution ftruck, and ftuck upon a bank, nearly in .the middle of the river. It is pretty certain that this bank occafioned that ttrong agitation of the ftream, with which we were fo much furprized when turning up the river. We had twelve feet depth of water about the fhip, at the lowcft of the ebb, but the bank was dry in other parts. When the Refolution came aground, Captain Cook made a fignal for the Difcovery to anclior. We were afterwards informed, that fhe had been almoft alhore on the W. fide of the bank. About five o'clock in the afternoon, as the flood tide came in, the (hip floated off withoiU fuftaining any damage, or occalioning the leaft ' ..irotflije. We then flood over to the W. ihore, where '^^Janchored, in deep water, to wait for the ebb, the ?|virid being flill unfavourable to us. At ten o'clock at night we weighed with the ebb ; and, about five the next morning, (the 3d of June) the tide being finifhed, we caft anchor on the W, fliore, about two miles below the bluff point. When we were in this flation we were vifited by many of the natives, who CAFfAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. AJ1 who attended us all the morning ; and, indeed, their company was highly acceptahle to lis, as they brought with them a quantity of line falmon, wjiich they ex- changed for feme of our trifles. »Several hundred weight of it was procured for the two (hips, and the greateft part of it was I'plit, and ready for drying. The mountains now, for the firfl: time after our entering the river, were free from clouds, and we per- ceived a volcano in one of thofe on the weftern lide. Its latitude is 60 d. 13 m. and it is the firft high moun- tain N. of Mount St Auguftin. The volcano is near the fummit, and on that part of the mountain next the river. It emits a white fmoke, but no fire. The wind continuing foutherly, we ftill tided it down the river; and, on the morning of the 5th, arriving at the place where we had loft our kedge anchor, we attempted, though unfuccefsfully, to recover ir. Before our departure from this place, we were again vifited by fome of the natives, in fix canoes, from the eaftern more. For half an hour they remained at a ifmall diftance from the fliips, gazing at them with a I kind of filent furprize, without uttering a fyllable to us, I or to each other. At length they grew courageous, came alongfide, and began to barter with us; nor c:d they leave us till they had parted with their fkins and falmon, which were the only articles they had brought Ito traffic with. - It may not be unneceflary to remark, that all the peo- Iple we had feen in this river, had a ftriking refemblancc, m every particular, to thofe who inhabit Prince Wii- Ham's oound, but differed moft eflentially from thofe of [Nootka, as well in their perlbns as their language. The points of their fpears and knives are made of liron; fome of the former, indeed, are made of copper. iTheir fpears refemble our fpontoons ; and their knives, Ifor wliich they have flieaths, are of a confiderable length. lExcept thefe, and a few glafs beads, every thing we law lamongft them was of their own manufacture. We Ibve already hazarded conjedures from v.'hence they deriv<» !l li /■ 49^ CAPTAIN COOIC'8 TMlftD VOYAGE. derive their foreign articles. It cannot be funpofedj however, that the Ruffians have heen amongft them, for vsre fhoulcl not then have leen them cloathed in fuch valuable fkins as thofe of the fea otter. A very beneficial fur trade might certainly be carried ov with the natives of this vaft coaft ; but, without a northern pailage, it is too remote for Great Britain to be benefited by fuch commerce. It fhould, however, he obfervec!, ihat almoft the only valuable fkins, on this "W. fide of Nbrth America, are thofe of the fea otter. Their other fkins were of an inferior quality j and it (hould be farther oblerved, that the greater part of the ftihs, which we purchafed of them, were made up into garments. Some of them, indeed, were in pretty good condition, others old and ragged, and all of them ex- tremely loufy. But, as flcins are ufed by thefe people only for clo ling themfelves, they, perhaps, are not at the trouble or drelfinec more of theni than they require for this purpofe. This is probably the ehier caule of their kilhng the animals, for they principally receive their fupply of food from the fea and rivers. But if they were once habituated to a conftant trade with foreigners, fuch an intcrcourfe would increafe their wants, by acquainting them with new luxuries ; to be enabled to purchafe which, they would become more affiduous ih procuring fkins ; • a plentiful fupply of which might doubtlefs be obtained in this country. The tide is very confiderable in this river, and greatly aliifts to facilitate the navigation of it. In the llreanij It is high water between two and three o'clock, ori the days of the nevv and full moon ; and the tide rifcs be- tween three and four fathoms. The mouth of the river b'^ing in a corner of the coaft, the ocean forces the flood into It by both fhores, which fwells the tide to a greater height than at other parts of this coafl. Deparfuti continent, n bably mean [ibmisabay I point of it. C A^tAlK COOK'f THIRD VOTAG B. 49 departure from Ceok*s River — Pa/s Si Hermogenet'^Cap9 Whitfuriday^WbitfuntideBay--^CapeGr€ville'^CapeBqr^ nabas^^Two-headed Point — Trinity JJland-^-^Beerinj^ t Foggy IJland^Foggy Cape — Pinnacle Point — Defer ipfion of a curious Bird — Account of the Schumagin I/lands'^ A Ruffian Letter brought on board the Dif cover yj—Variout Cortjeflures concerning it'-^Rock Poini'^Haltbut Jfland'^^ Halibut Head^^A Volcano^^Efcape prwidentially — Arri-^ val at Oonalafbka-^Traffic with the Natives ihere*^* Another Rufftan Letter brought on board-^Defcription (f the Harbour ofSamganoodha* THE ebb tide making in our favour, we weighed^ andv with a gentle breeze at S. W. plied down the river. The flood, however, obliged U6 to anchor again ; but, about one o'clock the next morning, we gt)t undet fail with a frefh breeze, paflfed the barren iflatuis about eight, and at noon Cape St Hermogenes bore S. £k £• jlbout eight leagues diftant. We intended to^o through the parage between the ifland of that name and the main land ; but the wind foon after failed us, and we had baiHing airs from the eaftward ; we, ther^ore, abandoned me defign of carrying our ihip through that paflage. We now beheld feveral columns of fmoke on the continent, northward of the paiTage ; which were pro- bably meant as fignals to attra£t us thither. The land ft)mi8 a bay here, a low rocky ifland lying oflfthe N. W» {point of it. Soiiie other iiiands, of a funilar appear- Voi. ll.-*N« 3> :^ 3R r aAce, $^ CAPTAIN COOK> THIRD VOYAGE. ance, are fcattered along the coaft between here and Point Banks. About eight in the evening, St Hermogenes extended from S, I E. to S. S. E. and the rocks bore S. E. diftant three iniles. Here we had forty fathoms water, and catched feveral halibut with hooks and lines. We paf- fed the rocks, and bore up to the fouthward about mid- night; and, on the 7th, at noon, St Hermogenes bore N. at the diftance of four leagues. The fouthernmoft point of the main land lay N. f W. five leagues diftant. The latitude of this promontory is 58 d. 1^ m. and its longitude 207 d. 24 m. It was named alter the day, Cape Whitfunday ; and a large bay, to the W. of it was called Whitfuntide Bay. The wind, which had been at N. E. fhifted to the fouthward about two in the afternoon. The weather was gloomy, and the air cold. At midnight we flood in for the land, and at feven o'clock in the morning of the 8th, we were within four miles of it, and lefs than two miles from fome funken rocks, bearing W. S. W. Here we anchored in thirty-five fathoms water. In rtanding in for the coaft, we palTed the mouth of Whit- funtide Bay, and perceived land all round the bottom of it ; therefore the land muft either be connedled, or the {)oints lock in behind each other : the former conjecture appears to be the m oft probable. There are fome fmall iflands to the W. of the bay. To the fouthward the fea coaft is low, with projeding rocky points, having fmall inlets between them. Upon the coaft there was no wood, and but little fnow ; but the mountains, at fome diftance inland, were entirely covered with fnow. We were novvr in the latitude of 57 d. 52^ m.. The land here forming a point, it was named GapeGreville. ltd latitude is 57 d. 33 m. and its longitude 207 d. 15 m. It is fifteen leagues diftant from St Hermogenes. The 9th, loth, and lith, we had conftant milly weather, with fome rain, and f^ldom had afight of the coaft ; we had a gentle breeze of wiind, and the air was raw'and cold. We continued plying up the coa():. la ^CAPTAIN COOK> THIRD VOYAGE. j^i In the evening of the 1 2th, the fo^ clearing up, we (aw the land about twelve leagues dinant, bearing W. and we ftood in for it early the next morning. At noon wc were within throe miles of it ; an eleVated poitit, which was named Cape Barnabas, in the latitude oi 57 d. 13 m. bore N. N. E. at the diflance of about ten milef?. We could not fee the N. E. extreme for the haze, but the point to the S. \V. had an elevated fummit, which terminated in two round hills, and was therefore called Two-headed Point. This part of the coafl is princi- pally compofed of hiph hills, and deep vallie?. We could fometimes perceive the tops of other hills, beyond thofe which form the coaft, which had a ver barren appearance, though not much incumbered with fnow. Not a tree or bufh was to be found, and the land, in general, had a brownifh hue. We dbntinued to ply^and, at about fix in the evenhtg, being about midway between Cape Barnabas and Twc)* heade^^ Point, two leagues from the (hore, we had fixty^ two fathoms water. Here a low point of land was ob- fcrved, bearing S. 6g d. W. On the i4th,at noon, we were in the latitude ^6 d. 49 m. The land feen the preceding evening now appeared Wkit two iflands. We were up with thefouthernmoft parrpi this laud the next morning, and perceived it tobe au iflaud, which obtain* cd the name of Trinity Ifland,' Itar greateft exteut, in in the direftion of E. and W. is about fix leagues, h has naked elevated land at each end, and is low towardii the middle. Its latitude is 56 d. 36 m. and its loti^titde 205 d. It is didant about three leagues from the ccm^ tiacnt, between which rocks and iflands are interrperf<^/ There feems, neverthelefs, to be good paiTage, at|d fafe anchorage. We, at firft, imagined that this was Beferi ing*s Foggy Ifland ; but its fituation is not agrtofale'tp his chart. In the evening, at eight, we were within a leagtke of the fmall iflands above mentioned. The weftgrnjttibfl point of the continent, now in' view,^1we csdH^f C^pd Tnnity, it being a low point facing Trinity Ifland. |a S R « tWs m -i-1 5da CAPTAIN dOQK^a THIRD VOYAGEi this fituation, we ftood over for the ifland^ meaning t$ tvork up between thai and the main. In (landing over towards the ifland, we met two men in a canoe, paddling from thence to the main : indead of approaching us, they feemed carefully to avoid it. The. wind now inclining to the S. we expededit would prefently be at S E. knowing, from experience, that a Ibutt.-eafterly whid was here generally accom- panied with a thick fog, we were afraid to venture be- tween the ifland and the continent, left we fhould not be able to accomplifh our paflage before night, or before the foggy weather came on ; when we fhould be under . the neceflity of anchoring, and lofe the advantage of a fair wind. Induced by tbefe reafons, we ftrctched out to fea, and pafled two or three rocky iflets, near the E end of Trinity Ifland. Having weathered the ifland, We tacked about four in the afternoon, and fteered weft foutherly, with a gale at S. S. E. which veered to the S. E. about midnight, and was attended with mifty rainy 'Weather. We expelled, from the courfe we fteered during the I tiight, to tali in with the continent in the morning ; ani we (hould, doubtlefe, have feen it, if the weather had been clear. No land appearing at noon, and the gale I and fog increafing, we fteered W. N, W. under luch fail as we cquld haul the wind with ; fenfible of the | danger of running before a ftrong gale, in the vicinity of an unknown coaft, and in a thick fog. It was, how- ever, become necefl^ary to run fome rifk, when the wind was favourable to us ; as we were convinced, that clear | weather was generally accompanied with wefterly winds. About three in the afternoon, land was perceived through the^ fog, bearing N. W. about three miles dif- tant. We inftantly hauled up S. clofe to the wind. The two courfes were foon after fplit, and we had others | to brinff to the yards r feveral of our fails received con- fiderable damage. The gale abated, and the weathfr| cleared up about nine ; when we again faw the coail, about CAPTAIN COOK'S TyiRD VOU AGE. 5^3 about the diftance of five leagues. Our depth was a hundred fathoms water. The fog returned foon after, and was difperfed about four o'clock the next morning ; when we found our- feives, in fome degree, furrounded by land; the conti- nent, or that which we fuppofed to be the continent, fome eleVated land, bearing S. E. about nine leagues diftant. The extreme of the main, at the N. E. was the point of land feen during the fog : it was named Foggy- Cape, and lies in the latitude of 56 d. 3 1 m. Having had but little wind all night, a breeze now fprung up at N. W. we flood to the Ibuthward with this, in order to make the land plainer, that was feen in that direction. About nine o'clock, we difcovered it to be an ifland, nine miles in circumference, in the lat- litudc of 56 d. 10 m. and the longitude of 202 d. 45 m. In our chart, it is named Foggy Ifland ; it being reafon- abie to fiippofe, from its fituation, that it is the ifland on which Beering had bellowed the fame appellation. Three or four iflands bore N. by W. a point, with pin- nacle rocks upon it, bore N, W. by W. called Pinnacle Point I and a clufter of ifletsS. S. E. about nine leagues from the coall, In the afternoon we had very littla wind, and our progrefs was inconfiderable. On Wednefday the 1 7th, we had gentle breezes be- tween W. and N. W. the weather was perfedly clear, and the air dry and (harp. The continent, about noon, extended from S. W. to N. by £. the neareft part about feven or eight leagues diflant ; a group of iflands lying to the S. "V^ about the fan^e diftance from the continent. The we^ither was clear and pleafant on the i8th, and it was calm the greatcfl part or the day. There is, pro- bably, a continuation or the continent between Foggy Cape and Trinity Ifland, ^yhich the thick weather hindered us from perceiving. The Comnapdore having oceafion to fend a boat to the Difcovery, one of the people aboard her, fhot a moft beautiful biro. It is fmallerthan a duck, and the colonr is black, -except that the fore part of the head is white ; . ., - ,, ,, behind i mm y«4 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD rOYAGE. behind each eye, an elegant ycllowifti white crcft arifcs; the bill and feet are of a reddilh colour. The firft wc favv of thefe birds was to the fouthward of Cape St Her- mogenes ; after which we faw them daily, and frequent- ly in large flocks. We often faw moft of the other Tea birds, that are ufually met with in the northern oceans ; fiich as fhags, gulls, puffins, Iheer waters, ducks, gecfe, and fwans ; and we leldom palTed a day, without kebg whales, feals, and other fifti of great magnitude. We got a light breeze, foutherly, in the afternoon, and fteered W. for the channel between the iflands and the continent. At day break, the next morning, ue were not far from it, and perceived feveral other iilands, within thofe that we had already feen, of various di- menfions. But, between thefe iflands, and thofe wc had feen before, there appeared to be a clear channel, for which we fteered ; and, at noon, our latitude was ^^^ d. 1 8 m. in the narroweft part of the channel. Of this j;roup of iflands, the largeft was now upon our left, and is called Kodiak, as we were afterwards informed. The Commodore did not beftow a name upon any of the others, though he fuppofed them to be the fame that Beering has named Schumagin's Iflands.* Iflands appeared to the fouthward, as far aa an ifland could be htn. They begin in the longitude of 200 d. 15 m. L and extend about two degrees to the weflward. Moft of thefe iflands are tolerably high, but very bar- ren and rugged ; exhibiting very romantic appearances, and abounding with rocks and cliffs. They have feveral bays and coves about them, and feme frcifh water flreams defcend from their elevated parts ; but the land was not embellifhcd with a fmglc tree or buih. Plenty of fnow ftill remained on many of them, as well as on thofe parts of the continent which appeareci t^tween the in- nermofl iflands. ' By four o'clock in the afternoon, wc had pafTed i! the iflands to the S» of ua. Wc found t^iirty lathpnu • Dccouvertcs dcs Ruffes, par MuUer, p, 26%. 277^ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 5«; water in the channel, and foon after we had got through it, vhe Difcovery, which was two miles aftcrn, fired three guns, and brought to, making a fignal to fpeak with us. Capwin Cook was much alarmed at this ; for, as no ap- parent danp,'er had been obferved in the channel, he was apprehenfive, that the Difcovery had fprung a leak, or met v/ith fomc limilar accident. A boat was fent to her, which immediately returned with Captain Clerke, He informed the Commodore, that fome natives, ia three or four canoes, having followed the fhip for fomc time, at laft P' II ill y $o6 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOTAGE. taten, in order to fecure relief, would have been, to fend fome of their people off to the fliips iti the canoed. He, therefore, rather thought, the paper was intended to communicate fome information, from fome Ruffian trader, who had lately vifited thefe iflaftds, to be delivered to any of his countrymen who (hould arrive : and that the natives, fuppofmg us to be RufHans, had brought off the note. Convinced of this, he enquired no farther into the matter, but made fail, and fleered to' the weftward. We ran all night with a gentle breeze at N. E. and ' the next morning at two, fome breakers were feen with- in us, diftant about two miles ; others were fooh after feen ahead, and they were innumerable on our larboard bow. and alfo between us and the land. By holding a *'. courfe, we, with difficulty, cleared them. Thefe breakers were produced by rocks, many of which were above water ; tney are very dangerous, atid extend knn leagues from land. We got on their outfide about lioon, when our latitude was 54 d. 44 m. and our long!- tude 198 d. The nearefl land was an elevated bid point, and was named Rock Point ; it bore N. about eight leagues diftant ; the wefternmoft part of the main, bore N. W. and a high round hill called Halibut Head, bore S. W. diftant about thirteen leagues. At noon on the 21ft, we made but little progrefs, having only faint winds and calms. Halibut Head then bore N. 24 d. W. and the ifland where it is fituated, called Halibut Ifland, extended from N. by E. to N. W. This ifland is feven leagues in circumference, .^nd, ex- cept the head, is very low and barren ; feveral fmall iflands are near it, between which and the mair, there appears to be a pafTage, of the breadth of two or threcj leagues. We were kept at fuch a diftance from the continent, by the rocks and breakers, that we had a very diftant view of the coaft between Halibut Ifland and Rock Point, We could, however, perceive the rtiain land covered with fnow ; and particularly fom0 hills, whofe elevated tops CAl»TAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 507 fops towered above the clouds to a moft ftupendous height. A volcano was feen on the moft fouth-wefter- ly of thefe hills, which perpetually threw up immenfe columns of black fmoke ; it is at no great diuaiice fronx the coaft, and is in the latitude of 54 d. 48 m. and the longitude of 1 95 d. 45 m. Its figure is a complete cone, and the volcano is at the fummit of it : remarkable as it may appear, the wind, at the height to which the fmoke of the volcano rofe, ofren moved in an oppofite direc-» tion to what it did at fea, even in a freib' gale. Having three hours calm in the afte aoon, upwards of an hundred halibuts were c.'\ught hj aur people, fome of which weighed upwards of an hundred pounds, and none of them lefs than tweaty. They were highly acceptable to us. We fiftied in thirty-five fathoms water, about four miles diftant from the fliore ; during which time, we were vifited by a man in a fmall canoe, who came from t^ie large ifland. Wlien he approach- ed the Ihip, he uncovered his head and bowed, as the other had done the preceding day, wb?n he came oflfto the Difcovery. That the Ruffians had fome communication with thefe people, was evident, not only from their polite- nefs, but from the written paper already mentioned^ We had now an additional proof of it; for our new vilkor had on a pair of green cloth breeches, and a jacket of black cloth, under the frock of his own coun- . try. He had with him, a grey fox (kin and fome fifh- ing implements : alfo a bladder, in which was fome liquid, which we fuppofed to be oil ; for he opened it, drank a mouthful, and then clofed it up again. His canoe was fmaller than thofe w,e had feeri before, though of the fame conftrii£lion : like thofe who had vifited the Difcovery, he ufed the double-bladed paddle. His features refembled thofe of the natives of Prince William's Sound, but he was perfectly free from any . kind of paint ; and his lip had been perforated in an oblique diredlion, though, at that time, he had not any or- j. nament in it. Many of the words, fa frequently ufed Vp1.II. N^'.sy. ,3s by 'Fm III' W m sot CAPTAIN COOK'* THIkt) VOYAGE. by our vifitors in the Sound, were repeated to him, but he did not appear to underftand any of them ; owing either to his ignorance of the dialed, or our erroneous pronunciation. The weather was principally cloudy and hazy, till the ternoon of the 2 2d, when the wind Ihifted to the S. attended, as ufuai, with thick rainy weather. Before the fog, we faw no part of the main land, except the volcano, and a neighbouring mountain. We ueered W. til) leven, when, fearing we might fall in with the land in thick weather, we hauled to the fouthward till two ^e next morning, and then bore away W. Our progrds was but trifling, having but little wind, and that variable: at five o'clock in the afternoon, we had an interval of fun-ftiine, when we faw land, bearing N. 59 dW. . On the 24th, at fix in the morning, we faw the con- tinent, and at nine it extended from N. E. by E. to S. W. by W. the neareft part four leagues diftant. The land to the S. W. conhfted of iflands, bein^ what we had feen the preceding night. In the evening, being about the diftance d four leagues from the ftiore, and having little wind, we threw out our hooks and lines, but caught only two or three little cod. We got an eafterly breeze the next morning, and, with it, what wis very uncommon, clear weather ; in- fomuch, that we clearly faw the volcano, the other mountains, and all the main land under them. It ex-j tencied from N. E. by N. toN. W. | W. Between this pioint and the iilands, a large opening appeared, fori which we (leered, till land was feen beyond it ; and, though we did not perceive that this land joined the continent, a paflage through the opening was veryl doubtful ; as well as whether the land to the S. W. was! infular or continental. Unwilling to trufl too much tol appearances, we therefore fleered to the fouthward;] when, having got without all the land in fight, w< fleered W. the iilands lying in that dircdlion. Tkree of them, all of a good height^ we had pafTec bi In the af aftcrivardf E. Wctl day break, We det weather be at the dift; was moden after four, larboard bi) and then t anchored ii the Difcove: Some hoi difcovered t were three ( ifland; two from us, am appeared ab conduced tl rocks, whic^ done in a clej place. Being fo afhore, to ex turned in thi herfaid, hef( of which had produced neii The wind morning was degree, difper fteered betwee andafmallohe nel does not e: we could pafs to anchor, whi land now pn GA<»TA1N COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 5^ by eight o'clock ; more were now ieen to the weftward. In the afternoon, the weather became gloomy, and afterwards turned to a mift, the wind Mowing niOi it E. We therefore hauled the wind to the Ibtithwarcl till day break, and then proceeded nn our courfc to th<6 W. We derived but little advantage from day light, thfe weathet being fo thick that xv^ could not dij(coverobje<% at the diftance of a hundred yards; but, as the wind was moderate, we Ventured to run. About half an hour after four, the found of breakiers alarmed us, on our larboard tow } we found twenty-eight fathoms water, and then twenty-five. We brought the Aip to, atid anchored in. the laft depth ; the Commodore ordering the Difcovery, who was tiot far diftant, to anchor alfb. Some hours after, the fog being a Httle difperfed, w^ drfcovered the imminent danger we had efcaped. We were three quarters of a mile from the N. E. fide of aA ifland ; two elevated rocks were about half a league from us, and from each other. Several breakers alfp appeared about them ; and yet Providence had fafely conducted the ihips through in the dark, between thofe roeks, which we jfhould not have slttempted to have done in a clear day, and to fo comTOodious an anchoring place. Being fo near land, Captain Gook ordered a boat alhore, to examine what it produced. When fhe re*- turned in the afternoon, the officer who commanded her faid, he faw fome grafs, and other fmall plants, one of which had the appearnnce of purflain j but the i(lan4 produced neither trees nor fhru OS, The wind blew frefh at S. in the night ; but in thfe morning was more moderate, and the fog, in a great degree, difpened. ^e weighed at feven b'ckxk, atid fteered between the ifland neai; which we had anchored, and a fmall one not far from it. The breadth of the chan- nel does not exceed a mile, and the wind ^ed before we could pafs through it; we were therefore obliged to anchor, which we did in thirty-four fathoms water. land now prefented itfelf in every diredion. That 3 S !? t^ w.\ih m Ji6 CAPTAIN COOK*^ THIRD VOYAGE. .to the^ S. extended, in a ridge of mountains, to the S. W. which we afterwards found to be an iiland called Oonalaihka. Between this ifland, and the land to the N. which *we fuppofed to be a group of iilands, there appeared to be a clKtnnel in a N. W. direction. On a point, W, from the (hip, and at the diftance of three quarters of a mile, we perceived feveral natives and their habitations. To this place, we fa\y two whales towed in, which ,wc fuppofed had jufl been killed. A few of the inhabitants, occafionally, came off to the (hips, and engaged in a lit- tle traffic with our people, but never continued with us above a quarter of an nour at a time. They feemed, indeed, remarkably fhy ; though we could readily di(- cover they were not unacquainted with vellcls, fimilar, in fome degree, to ours. Their manners displayed a degree of politenefs which we had never experienced among any of the favage tribes. About one in the afternoon, being favoured with a light breeze, and the tide of flood, we weighed, and pro- ceeded to the channel laftmentioned ; expeding, wherj ^ve had paiTed through, either to find the ' land trend away to the northward ; or that we fhould difcover a pafTage out to fea, to the W. For we did not fuppofe ourfelves to be in an inlet of the continent, but among iilands; and we were right in our conjedlures. Soon after we got under fail, the wind veered to the N. and we were obliged to ply. The depth of water was from forty to twenty-feven fathoms. In the evening, the ebb made it neceuary for us to anchor within three leagues of our laft ftation. We weighed the next morning at day break, and were wafted up the pafTage by a light breeze at S. after | which we haq variable light airs from all diredtions. There was, however, a rapid tide in our favour, and the Refolution got throiigh before the ebb made. The I Difcovery was not equally fortunate, for Ihe was canied back, got into the race, and found a difficulty in getung clear of it. ■ ^ ■ ' ■ ' ■ Being ro- n Mr Anderfc ^AccQunt t ' if Wales — A N the 2c with a J met with 'or, on the o W, and, on nmoie aor ntinuation q len in with t which is itutes the no: 'liich we can erence is ig to the tan ; it is '•1'^ (^ in it (b time, cover /t appeared, cty between t th-wcftern f Acootan, aui CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, m Ships proceed t6 the Northward-^The Ijlet of Opneita sad Acootan — Oonemak — Plenty pf Cod caught — Brifloi River — Round IJland-^Calm Point-^Mr Wdliam/on taitdi^ at Cape NewenJmm — His Report — Brlftol Bay^^ExtepS of H-^Sboat Water — The Ships are obliged by tl^ Shoaie to return — Sboal Nefs-^Ameticans come eff to our S&ips^-^ Their Behaviour ^ Drefif ^c. — Point Uprigbt-^Dsath cf Mr Anderfon — UisChara&er — An J/laAd named after him ^AccQunt of Sledge Jfland — King*s IJland—Cape Princt if Wales"^ Anchor in a large Bay on the Afia^ic CoaJi» ^ >> |N the ad of {uly, we (leered from Samganoodha, with a gentle breeze at S, S. E. to the northward, met with nothing to obftru^ us in that courie. for, on the one iide, the Ifle of Oonalafhka trended > W* and, on the other, no land was vidbie in a dircc« on moie northerly than N. £. all which knd was a ontinuation of the fame group of iilands that we had lien in with on the 2j^m oi the preceding mondu It which ifi fituated before Samganoodha, and CQti- Itutes the north*eaftern fide of the paflage througlv pich we came, is denominated Ooaella, and its cir« pnference is about feven leagues. Another iHaad, ig to the north-eaflward : ppeared, that we might have paflfed with greaat ifcty between thele two iflands and the contineHt,whoie atH-wcftern point opened off the north-eattern poini*; [AcoocaUj^ and proved to be the fan^ point of land that IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. ^ip n / W^. 1.0 I.I 1^12^ 12.5 ■ 50 ■^™ Hi^ •^ Ui2 |2.2 Hiotograpliic Sciences CoipoMon 2.0 ___ I L25 Bi u ill ^^^ 23 WIST MAIN STRHT WHSTER.N.Y. MS80 (716) 872-4503 x '> J ,^ 4^ %^ JI4 CAPTAIN C00K*8 THIRD VOYAGE. that we had difcerned when we left ^he coaft of the continent, the 25th of Tune, to go without the iflands. It is termed Oonemak by the natives, and if Ltuate in the longitude of 102 d. 30 m. E. and in the latitude of I f 4 d. 30 m. N. Over tHe cape, which, of itfelf, is high ^d, there is a round elevated mountain, at prefent covered with fnow. This mountain bore E. 2 d. N, at fix o'clock in the afternoon : and, two hours afterwards no land wa» to be feeri. Concluding, therefore, that thefoaftof the continent had now indmed to the north- eaftward,we fteered the fame courfe, till one o'clock the following morning, when the watch ftationed upon deck imagined they Taw land ahead. Upon this wc wore, and, for the (pace of about two hours, ftood to- , wards the S. \V. after which we refiimed our courfe to . the.E» N. E. At (ix we difcovered land aliead, at the dilbince of about five leagues, bearing S. £. As we ad- vanced we defcried more and mjre land, the whole of which was conne£ted. At twelve o'clock, we obferved that it extended from S. S. W, to E. the part neareft to us being live or fix leagues diftant. Our longitude, at this time, was 105 d< 18 m. E. and our latitude ^^ d. ±1 m. Ni At nx in the afternoon, we founded, and found a bottom of black fand at the depth of forty-eight fiithoms.^ We were now four leagues from the land ; and the eaflem part in fight w»8 in the direction of L Si £. appearing as ah elevated round hun^mock. On Saturday the 4th, at eight o'clock in the morning, we (aw the coaft from S. S. W. and E. W S. and, at intervals, we could difcern high land, covered with ihow, behind ir. Not long after we had a calm ; and being in. thirty fathoms water, we caught, with hook and line, a good number of excellent cod. At twelve we had an esifterly breeze and clear weather ; at which time we found ourfelves about fix leagues from the land, which extended from S. hy W. to £. by S. and the hummock, I feen the preceding evening, bore S. W. by S. at the dif- tahce of nine or ten leagues. A peat hollow fwell ^firomth^weilTfottth-weftWard, convinced us^ that there •'■■'" was CAPTAIN tooth raifRD VOYAGE. 51^ Vas no main land, in that dirt£l:ron, near ud. We Ileeri. ed a nottherly ccAirfe tifl fnx o'clock in the afternoon^ when the wind, Vieering to the 8. E, enabled us to Acer E- N. E. The coaft Ijty in thi« direed ^t had of getting to the northward vanifhed in an inftant. We flood on till nine o'clock, and then the point be- fore mentioned was about one league diftant, bearing N. £. i £. Behind the point is a river, which, at its entrance^ feemed to be a mile in breadth. The water appeared fomewhat difcoloured, as upon fhoals ; but a calm would have given it a flmilar afpeA. It feemed to take a winding direction, through the extenfiN ? flat which lies between the chain of mountains towards the S. £. and the hills to the north-weftward. It doubtlefs abounds with falmon, as many of thofe fifh were feen leaping in the fea before the entrance, and fome were found m the maws of cod that we caught. The mouth of thisriver^ Which we diftinguidied by the appellation of Briflol River, is fltuated in the longitude of 201 vhich lail depth we let go our anchors again, between ei^ht and nine in the evening ; fome part of the chain ofmountains, on the fouth-eaSem (hore, being in fight, And bearing S. £. f S. and the mod wefterly land on the other (hore bearing N. W. In the courfe of this day, we had defcried high land, which bore N. 60 d. W. and which we fuppofed to be about twelve leagues diftant. We weighed anchor the next morning, at two o'clock, with a gentle breeze at S. W. by W. and plied to wind- ward till nine } when judging the flood tide to be now againfl us, we anchored in twenty-four fathoms watea At one in the afternoon, the fog, which had this morn- ing prevailed, difperfmg, and the tide becoming favour- able, we weighed ap;ain, and plied to the fouth-weilward. Towards the evening, the wind was extremely variable, and we had fome thunder: we had heard nose before, from the time of our arrival on the coaft; and that which we now heard was at a great diflance. The wind fettling again in the S. W. quarter in the mom^ ing of Sunday the 1 2th, we fteered a N. W. courfe, and, at ten o'clock, faw the continent At mid-day, it ex- M?d from N. E. by N. to N. N. W. \ W. and an )/T 2 devatcd lilll 1 'IIH In 'livH HI 1 'f mH ; litlWll In 1 IMiIUHbiI li '4191 1 lii 1 ■fi? 11 ''■rlf 1 i,;.i ill:? m ili| M 1 uHH US |i$ CAPTAIN cook's THIRD VOYAGJL elevated hill ^{jearfd in the dire(flion of N. N. W. nine pr ten lieag]ue5 iiA^nt, This was found to be an ifland. I to which, on account of its figure, Captain Cook gave the name of Round liland. ^ ft fiends in the latitude of| ^58 d. 37 m. N. and the longitude of 200 d. 6 m. E. and 4ft ieveii miles diAant from the cooitinent. At nine ini fhe evaiing, haying fleered a northerly comx^^ to within jhree leagues of the fljore, we tacked in fourteen fathoms H^rater, the extremities of the qoau bearing £. S. £. f £. ' andW. / . ' I The wind now veered to the N. W. and enabled us to I {Iretch along the ihore, till two the next naoniing, when } nre fuiddenly go( into fix fathoms water, bf this p5«ticuiar part of the coafh \Ve adiyanced put i^owly on ^e 14th fnd 15th, havr ing Utti^ wind, an^ ^ times, a y^ry thick f^. Our ibun4ing^ y^erf firom twenty-fi;^ to fourteen ^thorns ; and we &d prf tty good fucceis in fifhing, for we caught ^plenty of cod, and fbmie flat fifji. ' Oil Thurfday the i6tjb, jat five Q'd|ock in the morning, the fog clearing 1^, we found ourfely^s nearer the piore thin we ex- jpe^e<]. Calm Point bore N. 72 d. £• and a point about ^ght leagues from it, in a wefterly diredion, bore N. 3, d. E. only thre^e miles diftant. * Betwixt thefe two points, the eba^ forips a bay, in fieyeral part? of which thje land could jfcaicely be iepn from tne nptaft head. jtliere is another bay oa the hbrth-weftern fide of the '^ znention^d point, i^etween it and a high promon- V tory, CAPTAIN CaOK»8 THI.RP VQYAQIS. ^»9 lory, which now bore N. 36 d. W. at the diftance of iixteen inUes. About nine o'clock, Captain Cook dit patched Lieutenant Williamfon to this promontory, with orders to go a(hore, and obferve what dire', were in- fcribe,d. The promontory, which he named Cape {^ewenham, is a rocky point, of confiderable height ; arid ilanda in the longitude ojF 197 d. 2^ m. E. and in^ the latitude of ^8 d. 42 m. N. Over it, or within it, two lofty hills nfe ont behind the other ; of which the innermoft, or eafternmoft, is the higheft. The country, as far 1^9 Mr Williamfon could difcern, produces not a fingle tree or lhr]ub. The hills vvere naked ; but, on the lower groiinds, there grew ^rafs and plants of various ynds, very few of which were at this time in flower> He met with no other animals than a doe and her fawn, gnd a (Jead fea hprfe or cow that lay upon the beach. Of the fatter ^nimaU we had lately fecn a confiderable iiumber. The cQ^ft, as we have already mentioned, aftUming f noritherly direftion from' Cape ^^ewenham, that cape tt the oQrthem boundary pt the exteolSye bay and gulph^ If '■ .ll '.,>.' 5?4 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGll giilph, fituatc before the river Briftol, which, in honour ef the Admiral Earl of Briftol, received from the Com- modore the denomination of Briftol Bay. Cape Oonc- mak forms the fouthern limit of this bay ; and is eighty- two leagues diftant, in the diredion oi S. S. W» fi^om Cape Newenham* A Kght breeze arifing about eight o'clock in the even- ing, and fettling at S. S. E. we fleered to the N. W. and N, N. W. round Cape Newenham ; which, at twelve the following day, was four leagues diftant, bearing S, by E. Our foundings, at this time, were feventecn fathoms; the moft advanced land towardathe N. bore N. 30 d. E. and the neareft part of the coaft was three leagues and a half diftant. During the whole afternoon, there was but little wind : fo that, by ten o'clock in the evening, we had only proceeded three leagues on a northerly courfe. We tteered N. by W. till eight o'clock the next morning, (Saturday tne 1 8th} when, the depth of water fqddenly decreafing to feven and five fathoms, we brought to, till a boat from each of our ftiips Was fent ahes^d to found, and then (leered to the N. £• At noon, the water was deepened to feventeen fathoms. Cape Newenham was now eleven or twelve leagues diftant, bearing S. 9 d. E. the north-eaftem extremity of the land in fight bore N* 66 d. £. and the diftance of the neareft (hore was four or five leagues. Our piefent la- titude was 59 d. 1 6 m. N. Between Cape Newenhan^ znd this latitude, the coaft confifts of low land and hills, and fecmed to form feveral bays. Before one o'clock, the boats ahead diiplayed the figna! of (hoal water. They had, indeed, only two fathoms ; and, at the fame time, the ihips wer^ in fix fathoms water. By hauling more to the N, we con- tinued nearly in the fame depth till between five and Irx o'clock when our boats finding lefs and lefs water, Ciptain Cook made the figrial to me DTfcovery, which was then ahead, to caft anchor, and both (hips foon fjune to. In bringing; up the Refoltiion,, her cable part^4 CAPTAIN COOK'« THIRD VOYAGE. Jif parted at the clinch, fo that were obliged to make ufc of ihe other anchor. We rode in fix fathoms water, over a bottonpL of fand, at the diflance of four or live leagues from the continent. Cape Newenham now bore S. fixtcen or feventeen leagues diftant ; the farthefl hillf we couW perceive towards the N. bore N. E. by E. and there was low land ftretching out from the more ele- vated land, as far as N. by E. Without this there was a fiioal of ilones and fand, dry at half ebb. The two maf^ ters having been fent, each in a boat, to foimd between this ihoal and the coail, reported, on their return, that there was a channel, in which the foundings were fix and feven fathoms, but that it was rather narrow and intricate. We attempted, at low water, to get a hawfer round the loft anchor, but we did not then meet with fuccefe. However, being refolved not to leave it behind us, while - there was any profpcft of recovering it, we perfcvered in our endeavours ; and, at length, in the evening of the 20th, we fucceeded. While we were thus occupied, the Commodore ordered Captain Clerke to difpatch his mafter in a boat tofearch for a paflage in aS. W, dir ed:ion. He accordingly did fo, but no channel was obferved ia that quarter ; nor did it appear that there was any other way to get clear of the (hbals than by returning by the fame track in which we had entered. For though, by following the channel we were how in, we might per- haps have ^ot further down the coaft ; and though this channel might probably have carried us at laft to thp northward, clear of the fhoals, yet the attempt would have been attended with extreme hazard ; and, in caie of ill fuccefs, there would have been a great lofsof time that we could not conveniently fpare. Thele reafons induced the Commodore to return by the way which had brought us in, and thus avoid the (hoals. The longitude of our prefent ftation, by lunar obfer- vations, Was 197 d. 45 m. 48 f. E. and the latitude 59 d. 37 d. 30 f. N. The moft northern part of the coaft, that we could difcern from this ilation, was fuppofed to I S2t CAPTAIN COOK'S ttttftO VOtACE. be fituatc in the latitude of 60 d. It forWcd, to appeaN ance, a low point, which received the name of Shoal Ncfs. The tide of flood fets to the northward, and the ebb to the fouthward : it rifes and falls live or fix feet upon a perpendicular ; and we reckon that it is high tvatcr at eight o'clock, on the full and change days. At three in the morning of the 21ft, we weighed anchor with a gentle breeze at N. N. W. and fteercd back to the S. havinc three boats ahead employed in founding. Notwithlianding this precaution, we met with greater dlfficuUy in returning than we had found in advancing ; and were at length under the neceflitf of anchoring, to avoid the danger of running upon a fhual that had only a depth of five feet. While we lay at anchor, twenty-feven Americans, each in a feparate canoe, came off to the fhips, which they approached with fome degree of caution. As they advanced, they hollowed and opened their arms; thereby intimating, as we underflood, their peaceable intentions. Some of them, at lafl, came near enough to receive a few tri- /""'- articles which we threw to them. This gave en- e. 'gement to the others to venture alongfide ; and a traffic quickly commenced between them and our people, who obtained wooden vefTels, bows, darts, ar- rows, drelTes of fkins, &c. in exchange for which the natives accepted whatever we offered them. They ap- peared to be the fame fort of people with thofe wie had met with all along this coaft ; and they wore in their lips and nofes the fame fpecies of ornaments, but were not fo well clothed, and were far more dirty. They feemed to be perfedly unacquainted with any civilized nation ; they were ignorant of the ufe of tobacco; nor did we obferve in their poffeffion any foreign article, unlefd a knife may be coniidered as fuch. This, indeed, was nothing more than a piece of cottimon iton fitted in a handle, made of wood, fo as to fcrve the ptirpcfe of a knife. They, however, fo well knew the ufe and value of this indrument, that it fe.emed to be ^Imofl th^ only article they were defiroiis of. The CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE. 523 The hair of moft of them was (haved, or cut fhort off, a few locks only being left on one fide, or behind. They wore, as a covering for their heads, a hood of (kins, and a bonnet, which was feemingly of wood. One part of their drcfa, which we procured from them, was a kind of girdle, made of fkin in a very neat man- ner, with trappmgs depending from it, and pafling be- twixt the thighs, fo as to conceal the adjacent parts. From the ufe of this girdle, it is probable that they lome- times go in other refpeds naKed, even in this high northern latitude ; for it can fcarcely be fuppofed that they wear it under their other clothing. Their canoes were covered with (kins, like thofe we had lately feen ; but they were broader, and the hole wherein the perfoh fits was wider than in any of thofe we had before met with. Our boats returning from founding appeared to give them fome alarm, fo that they all departed fooner than perhaps they oth^rwife would have done. We did not get clear of the (hoals before the evening of WednefHay the 2 2d ; and then we durft not venture to (leer towards the W. during the night, but fpent it off Cape Newenham. At day break, on the 23d, we ftood to the north- weftward, the Difcovery being ordered to go ahead. Before we had proceeded two leagues, our foundings decreafed to fix fathoms. Being apprehen- five, that, if we continued this courfe, we (hould meet with lefs and lefs water, we hauled to the S. with a frelh eafterly breeze. This courfe gradually brought us into eighteen fathoms water, upon which we ventured to fteer a little wefterly, and afterwards due W. when we at length found twenty-fix fathoms. At noon, on th« 24th, our longitude, by obfcrvation, was 194 d. 22 m. IL and our latitude 58 d 7 m. N. About three leagues to the W. of this fituation, our foundings were twenty- eight fathoms; and we then ftcered vV. N. W. the d^pth of virater gradually itKrealing to thirty-four fa- thoms. "We fhould have fleered more northerly had I not the wind prevented us. In the evening of Saturday the 25th, having but little Vol. II N** 39. 3 U wind, m\ 514 CAPTAIN C00:C*8 THIRD VOYAGE. wind, and an exceedingly thick fog, we let go our anchors in tliirty fathoms ; our longitude being, at that time, iQi d. 37 m. E. and our latitude 58 d. 20 m. N. About lix o'clock the next morning, the weather ia fome degree clearing up, we weighed, and, with a gentle breeze at E. Peered to the northward, our depth of water being from twenty-five to twenty-eight fathoms. After we had proceeded on this courfe for the fpace of nine leagues, the wind veered to the N. fo that we were obliged to ftcer more welleriy. The weather, for the moft part, continued to be foggy, till about twelve o'clock on the 28th, when we had clear fun-fhine for a few hours, during which feveral lunar obfervations were made. The mean refult of thefe, reduced to noon, at which time our latitude was 59 d. C5 m. N. gave igo d. 6 m. E. longitude, and the time-Keeper gave 189 d. 59 "^- . . Continuing our wefterly courfe, we difcovered land at four in the morning of the 29th, bearing N, W. by W. at the diftance of iix leagues. We ftood towards it till between ten and eleven, w^hen we tacked in twenty- four fathoms, being then a league from the laqd', which bore N. N. W. It was the fouth-eaftern extreme, and formed a perpendicular cliif of great height; upon which account, Captain Cook gave it the name of Point Upright. It ftands in the longitude of 187 d. 30 m. E. and in the latitude of 60 d. 17 m. N. More land was perceived to the weft ward of this point ; and, at a clear interval, we difcerned another portion of high land, bearing W. by S. and this feemed to be perfedly fe- parated from the other. We here obferved an amazing number of birds, fuch as guillemots, awks, &c. During the whole afternoon we had baffling light winds, which occafioncd our progrefs to be but flow ; and the weather was not fufficiently clear, to enable us to determine the extent of the land that was before us. We conjectured that it was one of the many iflands laid down in Mr Staehlin's map of the New Northern Archi- . pelagojl CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. Sr: r pelago ; and we every moment expected to defcry more of them. On the 30th, at four o'clock in the afternoon, Point Upright was fix leagues diftant, bearing N. W. by N. A light breeze now Ipringing up at N. N. W. we fteered to the north-eaftward till four the next morning, when the wind veered to the E. we then tacked, and rtood to the N. W. The wind, not long after, fhifting to S. E. we fteered N. E. by N. and continued this courle, with foundings from thirty-five to twenty fathoms, till noon the following day (Auguft i.) Our latitude, at this time, was 60 d. 58 m. N. and our longitude was 191 d. E. The wind now becoming north-eaiierly, we firil made a ftretch of about ten leagues towards the N. W. and then, as "we obferved no land in that diredlion, we Hood back to the E, for the fpnce of fourteen or fifteen Icagur.s, and met with a connderable quantity of drift- wood. Our depth of water was from twenty-two to nineteen fathoms. On Sunday the 2d of Auguft, variable light winds, with ftiowers of rain, prevailed the whole day. In the mornfng of the 3d, the wind fettling in the S. E. quarter, we refumed our northward couri'e. At twelve o'clock our foundings were fixteen fathoms, our latitude was 62 d. 34 m. N. and longitude 1 92 d. E. Between three and four o'clock this afternoon Mr Anderfon, Surgeon of the Refolution, expired, after he had lingered under a confumption for upwards of a twelvemonth. He was a fenlible, intelligent young man, and an agreeabla companion. He had great fkill in his profeflion, and had acquired a confiderable portion of knowledge in other departments of fcience. Our readers will doubtlefs have obferved, how ufeful an afliftant he had proved in the courfe of the voyage ; and if his life had been prolonged to a later period, the public might have received from him many valuable communications refpedling the natural hiftory of the different places vifited by us. Soon after he had refign- cd his breath, we difcovered land to the weftward, at 3U 2 thQ I«« CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. the diftance of twelve leagues. We fuppofed it to be an ifland; and the Commodore, to perpetuate the memory of the deceafed, for whom be had a particular edeem, diftinguiihed it by the name of Anderfon^s Ifland. The following day Mr Law, Surgeon of the Difcovery, was removed into the Refolution j and Mr SaiHuel, the Surgeon's firft mate of the RefoIutipQ'^^a& appointed to fucceed Mr Law, as SurgeoiiW Ifcc Dilbovery. ^^^ ■ At three in the afternoon, on the 4th, we faw land extending from N. N, £. to N, W. We fleered toi- wards it till four, when, being four or five miles diftant from it, we tacked ; and, not long afterwards, the wind failing, we let go our anchors in thirteen fathoms, over a fandy bottom, at the diftance of about two leagues from land. Our latitude was now 64 d. 27 m. N. and longitude 194 d. 18 m. E. We could, at intervals, difcern the coaft extending from E. to N. W. and an ifland of confiderable elevation, bearing W. by N. nin$ miles diftant. The land before us, which we imagined to be the continent of America, appeared rather low next the fea ; but, inland, it rofe in bills, which feemed to be of a tolerable height. It had a greenifli hue, and was ap« parently deftitute of wood, and free from fnow. While our (hips remained at anchor, we obferved that the tide of flood came from the eaftward, and fet to the weft- ward, till between the hours of ten and eleven ; from which time, till two o'clock the next morning, the ftream fet to the E. and the water fell three feet. The flood running both longer and ftronger than the ebb, we concluded, that there was a wefterly current befides the tide. On Wednefday the 5th, at ten o'clock in the morning, we ran down, and, foon after, anchored between the ifland and the continent in feven fathoms, Not Icmg after w^ had caft anchor. Captain Gx>k, accompanied by Mr King, and fome other oiHcers landed upon the iiknd. He hoped to have had frou it a profp^d of the coaf CAPTAIN COOK*! THIR.D VOYAGE. 5*7 loaft and fea towards tbe W, but, in that dircdion, the fog was {o thick, that the view was not more extenfive than it was from our (hips. The coaft of the eootinent ieetned to incline to the N. at a low point, named by us Point Rodney, which bore from the ifiand N. W. half W. at the dirtance (^ three or four leagues ; but the high land, which affumed a more northerly diredlion, was perceived at a much greater diftance. The latitude of this ifiand is 64 d. 30 m. N. and its longitude is 193 d. 57 m. E. It is about twelve miles in circumference. The furface of the ground principal- ly confjfts of large loofe ftones, covered in many places with mofs and other vegetables, of which twenty or thirty different fpecies were obferved, and moft of tnem were in flower. But the Captain faw not a tree or. Ihrub, either on the ifiand, or upon the neighbouring continent. Near the beach where he landed, was a con- fiderable quantity of wild purflain, long- wort, peafe, &c. fome of which he took on board for boiling. He faw ieveral plovers, and other fmall birds ; a fox was alfo feen. He met with fome decayed huts, built partly un^ der ground. People had lately been upon the ifiand ; and it is more than probable, that they often repair to it, there being a beaten path from one end to the othen At a fmall diflance from that part of the fhore where our gentlemen landed, they found a fledge, which induced Captain Copkj^jgive the illand the appellation of Sledge Ifland. It appie^red to be fuch a one as is ufed by the Ruflians in Kamtfchatka, for the purpofe of conveying goods from one place to another over the fnow or ice. It was about twenty inches in breadth, and ten feet in length ; had a fort of rail work on each fide, and was ihod with bon^. Its conftru^tion was admirable, and its various part3 were put together with great neatnefs ; fome with wooden pins, but for the mofl part with thongs or lafhing^ft of whale bone j in confequence of which, the Captain imagined, that it was entirely the workmanfhip of the natives. We Vv'^ighpd anchor at three o'clock in the morning of :j28 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. of the 6th, and made fail to the N. W. with a light hreeze from the fouthward. Having afterwards but little wind, and that variable, we made but a flow pro- grefs; and, at eight o'clock in the evening, finding thel ihips getting into (hoal water, we anchored in leveal fathoms, our diftance from the coaft being about twol leagues. Sledge liland then bore S. 51 d. E. nine orl ten leagues diilant. Soon after we had let go ourl anchors, the weather, which had been mifty. cleared up, and we perceived high land extendinp; from N. 40 d. E. to N. 30 d. W. feemingly disjoined from the coaft near which we lay at anchor, which appeared to extend to the north-eaftward. We at the fame time faw an ifiand bearing N. 81 d. W. at the diftance of eight or nine leagues. It feemed to be of fmall extent, and was named King's Ifiand. We rode at anchor till eight tlie| next morning, when we weighed, and fteered a N. \V, courfe. The weather being clear towards the evening, I we obtained a fight of the north-weftem land, diftant about three leagues. We paffed the night in making thort boards, the weather being rainy and mifty, and the wind inconfiderable. Between four and five in the morning of the 8th, we again had a fight of the N. W, land ; and, not long afterwards, having a calm, and being driven by a current towards the (hore, we thou^^ht pro- per to anchor in about twelve fathoms water, at the diftance of about two miles from the iC^iibft. Over the wcftern extremity is a lofty peaked hiH/fnuate in the Ipngitude of 1 92 d. 1 8 m. E. and in the latitude of 65 d. 36 m. N. A north eafterly breeze fpringing up at eight o'clock, we weighed, and made fail to the fotith- eaftward, hoping to find a paffage between this N. W. land and the coaft, near which we had caft anchor in the evening of the 6th. But we quickly got into fevcn fathoms water, and perceived low land connecting the two coafts, and the elevated land behind it. Convinced that the whole was a continued coaft, we now tacked, and fteered for its north-weftem part, near ^hich wc atichored in feventeen fathoms. The vi»ea- ■^ ther, CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 529 ^her, at prefent, was very thick and rainy ; but, at four {he next morning, it cleared up, and enabled us to dif- ccrn the neighbouring landi A lofty fteep rock or ifland bore W. by S. another illand to the northward of ir, aad fonfiderably larger, bore W. by N. the peaked hill Ikj- fore-mentioned, S. E. by E» and the point that was under it, S. 32 d. E. Under this hill is fome low land, extend- ing towards the N. W. the extreme point of which was now about one league diftant, bearing N. E. by E. Over it, and alfo beyond it, we obferved fome high land, which we imagined was a continaation of the continent. This point of land, which the Commodore dlftln- guiftied by the name of Cape Prince of Wales, is the weftern extreme of all America hitherto knov/n. it Hands in the longitude of 191 d. 45 m. E. and in the latitude of 6^ d. 46 m. N. We fancied that we faw fome people onthe coaft ; and, perhaps, we were not miftaken in our fuppofition, as fome elevations like ftages, and others rclembling huts, were obferved at the fame place. . ^ At eight o'clock this morning, a faint northerly breeze arifmg, we weighed anchor : but our fails were fcarcely fet, when it began to blow and rain vv-ith great violence, there being, at the fame time, mifty weather. The wind and current were in contrary diredtions, raifing fuch a fea, that it often broke into the lliip. Having plied to windward, with little effedt, till two o'clock in the afternoon, w^e flood for the ifland which we had perceived to the weftward, intending to cafl anchor under it till the gale (hould abate. But, upon our nearer approach to this land, we found that it was compofed of two fmall iflands, neither of which exceeded three or four leagues in circumference. As thefe could afford us litde flicker, we did not come to an anchor, but continued to flretch towards the W. and, about eight o'clock in the evening, we faw land extending from the N. N. W. to W. by S. the diftance of the nearefl part being fix leagues. . We flood on till ten o'clock, 5SO CAPTAIN CdOfc's THIRD VOTACI, o'clock, and then mstde a board towards the £. in ore topafs the night. On Monday the loth, at break of da^', we refui our wcftward courfc for the land feen by us the prl ceding evening. At eleven minutes after (even o'clocl it extended from S. 72 d. W. to N. ^i d. E. Betwi] the fouth-weftem extremity, and a pomt bearing W. ftj miles diiVant, the coaft forms a fpacious bay» in whicl we dropped our anchors at ten in the forenoon, aboul two miles from the northern (hore, over a gravelly botl torn, at the depth often fathoms. The northern poini of this bay bore N. 43 d. E. its /outhern point S. 58 dj W. the bottom of the oay, N 60 d. W. between two anc three leagues diftant ; and the two iflands that we hat pafled the preceding day, were at the diftance of four- teen leagues, bearing N. 72 d. £» Gaptairt s>- VoUn— N«'39. ^AFFAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, ..lU:l i: rlKW,f.>n -iitii? 1 O'A'j S3* V:'| p^/dm Ctfcit /j«c// at a nitag^'^Merviems wiihfome hfike IfatijoeSf the TfchutJki-^Their Weapons defiribed^^i'hdf PetfiHs-^Ornaments-^ Dre/s-^Winter Habitat ton: — Swsii flier Huts^^Canoes-^^he Ships quit the Bay — Crofs th$ Strait Jo the American Coq/ir^Point MulgravC'-^App^ar'' mee of a prodigious Ma/t of Ice — Icy Cape-^The Sea, in a Manner Mocked vp H/ifb Ice^^Sea Hnjrfes killed^ and mddi Vfe ofasProviJioi^'^,4ccpunt ofthefe Animqls^^The Ships, almefi'ftirrounded witbrlcirf-^Cape Lifburne—Urjuccefsfvi Atte^ptlYo get to the NortU through the Ice-^Remarks on the Formation^ £//:, oft^is Iqh-Arrival on theAftatic Coqfl -^^•.•^frife : , .. Oil t){iY/ ■/:..:! ^fii 6\ ,'?•: odIv WiHiLE we were fteiring for this bay, wje olv- itrved, Oft the N* (bore, a village, and fome^ people^ who'iitemed to have been thrown into confufion, or fear^ at the fight of our veffels* We- could plainly perceive pcrfons running up the country with burdens- npon their fhpulders. At this village Captain Cook propofed to land ; and accordingly, went with three armed 'b6ats,^-~a,ccomp^nied by iome of the officers/ Thirty or forty men, each of whom was armed widi a fi>oat6on, a^bbw, and arrowly ftood drawn up on an eminence near the houfes 5 three of them came down towards fhc ihore on the approach of our gentlemen, and were fo polite as to ^ull off th^ir caps, and make them lowbowiJL Though this civility was returned, it did notitlfpire them wim fufficient confidence to wait forthelandingiof our party, ^ for, the inftant they put the boat* aihbrei, the qativesretired. Captain Cook pU. •Vol. IT— N** 39. 3X lowed "v.'^v*,;*,^ 532 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VGYAOe. lowed them alone, without any thing ii] his hand ; an( by fjgns and geftiires, prevailed on them to ftop, ant accept fome trifling prefents : in return for thefe, the^ gave him two fox ikms, and a couple of fea horfe teethi 'the Captain v^as of opinion, that they had brougW thefe articles down with them for the purpofe of pre] Icnting them to him ; and that they would Ivave givei them to him, even if they had expeded no return. They feemed very timid and cautious ; intimatbj^ their defire,hy figns, that noinore of our people (hould be fli^red to come up. Oh the Captain's laying hi^ hand on the flioulder of one of them, he ftarted back fevcral paces ; 'm proportion asvhe adviMiced, they re- treaised, always ia*he attitude of being ready tp make ufc of their fpears ; whilfe thofe on the eminence, were] prepared to fupport them witlvthdr arrows. InfenfiblyJ the Captain, and two or rfiree of his comparMoua, in-J troduced themfelves among theni,^ The diftribution, on a few beads aniong fome of them, ibon created a degree of confidence, fo that they were not alarmed^ when th- Captain was joined by a few more of his people ; and, in a (hort time, a kind of traffic was entered mto. la exchange for tobacco, knivesj beads, and other) articles, t-hcy gave a few arrows, and fonve of their clothing ; but notning that our people had to ofier» could inducjg thepar to part with a fpear or a bow, Thefe they heW \n coQ-j tinual readinefs, never quitting them,-except at one tin?e, when four or fiv^ perfons laid theirs down, whik tlwy favoured our party with a: long and a dance<; and even th«n, they placed th^m in fuch a manner, that th«y could lay hold ot them in a moment. Their arrows vwere pointed either with ftone or bone,, but very few of them had barbs *. and fome oiE them bad arouna blunt point; Whal ufc thefe are appHed tOi, we cannot fay, unlefsit be to kill fmeUanimaisbwithGufe damaging the^ Ikin. Their bows were fuch as we. had: obferved on the American coaii: their ^optoons, or fpearsj were of iron orfteel, and of EuBopean or Afiailc; workmanfliip ^ and confiderable psdns had been taken; h; . ... I - .. '(., ■ . tQ CAPTAIN C00X>8 tttlRt) VbVAiGfi. 53^ toetnbetlilh rhem "with cftrvin^» and inlayings of brAfs, ind of a tvbite metal Tlioie who {[odd with bo^^ jnd arrows in their hands, had the 4'peiat- ilung by h hthttti flfap over thdr right ihoiilder. A leathern quiver, flung ov^r their ieft flioulder, ferved t6 cont^lh arrows ; and fotat of thefe quivers wete exceedingly butiful, beitig lAad^ of red leather, ort which was very neat embroidery^ and other ornaments. Sevtfs^ dthe'r thingfe, hnd particularly their clothing, ihdicated a degrefe (f ingenuity, far furpafling what any one would ex*j)e^ to find amon^ fo northern k people. All the Americans we had leen fince our arrival oh ihal (Sbaft, had round chubby faces, *tid high cheek- toneSi fend were raether low of ftjiturfe. The people among V^rhom we now were, far frfeifi refemblihg them, hsd long vifoges, atid "were flout and well made : upoi^ the whble, they appeared to be a vety difierent nation. No women, nor children of either fex, were obferved, nor any aged perfons, except one inan, whofe head was yd ; and he was the only one who bore no arms : the tthets feemed to be fele£t men, and i'ather under thafi above the middle age. The eldetly man had a bladb tmk acrofs his face, -which was not petceived in any ethers ; all of them had their ears perfoi-ated, and fomfe had g'lafs beads hAngin^ t6 them. Theie were the only fixed ornaihents fcen about them, fiDir ihty lArear nonfe to their lips: this is fendther particular, in vvbich thty differ from the Arftericans we had lately feen. Their appatel confifted of a pair of breeches, a ciap, a frock, a pair of boots, and a pair pf g^o'ves, aH ifnade of the fkins of deer, dogs, feals, and other animals, and ex* tfemely wteli di^ffed; ibme with the hiit" brfur on, and others Without it* The caps V^ert Vnade In fuch a math- net, a« to fit the head very clofe ; and befides thtfe caps, whieh were wOrti by tooft of them, we procurdl Iroin thetn fohxe hoodsi ihaide of dog fkth^ that w^eTiif- fieitfntly large to eOvCT bbth head iand ihbulders. Theiir hair ^^aS app^ai^htly blaiek, but their heads were efthei^ ftjaved^br the hair cut clofe off, and none of them wore 3X2 beards.. 534 CAl'TAlN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE. hcards. Of the few articles which they obtained fro our people, knives and tobacco were what they fet th mod value upon. The village was compofed both of their winter an their fummer habitations ; the former are exadiy like vault, the floor of which is funk below the furface of th earth. One of them, which Captain Cook examine was of an oval figure, about twenty feet in lenf»th, an twelve or more in heipht ; the framing conlifted o; wood, and the ribs of whales, judiciouliy difpofed, an bound together with fmaller materials of the fame kin Over this framing, a covering of ftrong coarfc grafs wa laid, and that again was covered with earth ; fo that o the outfide, the houfehad the appearatice of a little hil lock, fupportcd by a wall of ftone, of the height»cf thre or fbur feet, which w^as built round tl.e two fides, an one end. At the other end of the habitation, the eartl was raifed floping, to walk up to the entrance, whicl "was by a hole m the lop of the roof, over that end. Th floor was boarded, and under it was a fort of cellar, i which the Captain iaw nothing but water ; at the ei\d| of each houfe was a vaulted room, which he fuppofedl was a ftore-room. Thefe ftore-rooms comnumicated, by a dark paffage, with the houfe ; and with the open air, by a hole in the roof, which was even with the ground one walked upon ; but tl^ey cannot be faid to be entirely below ground ; for one end extended to the edge of the hill, along which they were made, and which was built up with ilone. Over it flood a kind of fentry-box, or tower, formed of the large lx)nes of ^reat fim. Their fummer huts were of a tolerable fize, and cir- cular, being brought to a point at the top. Slight poles and bones, covered with the fkins of fea animals^ conw pofed the framing. Captain Cook examined the infide of one: there was a fire place juft within the jdccr, ^where a few wooden veflels were deppfited, all very dirty. Their bed places were cMe to the fide, and ... w K < .:,; ) ..•..•; -•.. occupied '\ *t» •;■> CAP? occupied ab< privacy fecr partitions, n confided of and dry. About th( twelve feet ii cf the Amei ^^ ef bones, am .\^ ^1 fidvand fkir of their do&s dogs are oft lolours, witt are, isi all pr ilieir fledges fledges, as t^ of their win that dogs CO tiead, which The canoi with thofe c the large and the village. From the it appeared, t part of theii tremely barr Ihrub. At f{ a ridge of m( not long bef( At.firft, foi theiilaxid of before; mentis coaft, the fit and frojn th Was, more pi the e«^t|ern e: the ycftf If 2 fvtheir cx*ai CAPTAIN COOK'a THIRD VOYAGE. JSJ occupied about one half of the circuit : fome degree of privacy feemed to be obferved ; for there were feveral partitions, made with Ikins. Tlie bed and bedding conliftcd of deer i1;:in8, and molt of them were clean and dry. About the houfes were eredied fcveral ftages, ten or twelve feet inheigbt, fuch as we had leen on lome parts ef the American coalh They were compofed entirely of bones, and were apparently intended ibr drying their lidi-and (kino, which were thus pbced out ol the reach of their dogs, of which they had great nu mbers. Thefe dogs are or the fox kind, rather large, and of -dilFcrcni colours, with long iolt hair, tliat refeuibles wool. J hey are, ill all probability, ufcd for the purpoic of drawing their fledges in winter ; for it appears that they have fledges, as the Captain faw mai>y of them laid up in one of their winter huts. It is, like wife, not improbable, that dogs conftitute a part of their food, for ievcral lay «tead, which had been killed that morning. The canoes of thefe people are of the fame kind mih. thofe of the northern Americans, fome, both of the large and fmall fort, being feen lying in a creek near the village. From the large bones of lifh, and other fea animals, it appeared, that the fea furnilhed them with the greater part of their fubfiftence. The country feemed ex- tremely barren, as our gentlemen law not a tree or Ihrub. At fome diHance towards the W. they obferved a ridge of mountains covered with fnow, that had fallen not long before* At.firft, fome of us fuppofed this land to be a.partof the iilajad of Alafchki) l^d down io Mr Stashlins map before : mentioned ; b^it from the appearance of the coaft^ the fituatign of the oppofitq.fiioreof A.merica, and frojn the loneitjgidc, ^yefoGnconje^ured that it Was, more probab^r^be coimtpy: oF the TTcluitflci, or the eaftern extremity lof Alia^^)cj>lQred by Beerin^ in the ycftf 1728. Jn a^dmittin^ thi^, however, without fvth^ cjcjiminatiou, we civ ft have pronounced Mr StGshlin's |j<< CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. S^aeblin's map, and his account of the new norditm Archipelago, to be either remarkably erroneous, even in latitude, or elfe to be a mere fidlon ; a judgment vfhkh we would not prefume to pafs, upon a publka^ tion fo rel'pedably youched, without producing the moft decifive proofs. After our party had remained with thcfe people be^ twcen two and three hours, they returned on board 5 and, foon after, the wind becoming I'outherly, we ureighcd anchor, ftood out of the bay, and fteered to the N. £. between the coaft and the two iflands. At nvelre o'clock the next day { Auguft 1 1 ) the former extended from S. 80 d. W. to N. 84 d. W. the lattet bore S» jid d. W. |ind the peaked hill, over Cape Prince of Wales^ liore S. 36 d. E. The latitude ot the (hip was 66 d» 51 m. R the longitude 191 d. 19 m. £. ouribunding^ were twenty-eight fathoms ; and our pofition nearly m the middle of the channel, between the two coaAs, each being at the diilance of about feven leagues. We fteered to the eaftward from this ftation, In order to make a nearer approach to the American coaft. In this courie the water gradually fhbaled^ and tliere being very little wind, and all our endeavours to ittcfeafe our depth failing, we were obliged at laft tocaft anchor in fix fathoms ; which was the only remedy I'ettiaining, to prevent the (hips driving into more (hallow watcn The neareft part of the wSftern land bore W. twelve leagues diftant ; the peaked mountain over Cape Frince of Wales, bore &, 16 d. W. and the moil northern part of the American continent in fight, E. S. E, the diftaficd of the neareft part being about tout leagues. Aftet w* had anbhored, a, boat was difpatched to found, and the water was found to ihoal gradykaliy towards the land* While our (hips lay at anchor, which Was frotil fix to iiinc in the evening, we perceived littie or fta ^uir^tit^ nor did we obferve that the wat^f roieoi' feli. *?^"^' A northerly breeze fpringing iip, we weighed^ JftlfJ made fail to the weftward, which courfc foOft broii^t u^ into deep water ; and^ dtiring the i ath, we plief to i tb«. CAf-rAINQPQIC's THIRD VOTAGE. S}1 the aorthward kv fight of botU coaftb, but wc kept r\f arcft lotjiaC of Arnenca,: On the ijrh, at four in the *tt^ four o'clock the oext morning, when, feeing no laiid^ we durct^etl quiy courfe E. by N. and between the- Knurs of oi"e.Jind ton, Und: appeared, which we fuppoled wa% a continuation, of the eontinent. It extended from K. by S»to E. by N. ami, not long afterwards, wc defcried inctrd land, bieariog N» by E. Coming rather ftidtlenly iftfo thirteen fathoi^s water, at two in the afternoon, we m^^e a trip off till four, when, we again Aood in for the land ; which, feon after, ^e faw, extending front N. toiS. E. the aearcft part being at the diftanoe of thr^o or four leagues; The coaft here forms a point, naracd by ii8 Point Mjulg^&v^e, whiph is fituattd in tliiC htltude of 67 d, 45 nsuN. md m the lougitwde of I9.4.d. 51 m. £. Th^ land fcemtd to be very tow near th« feay bm at rntie fkthe}" it ri^tea into^hiiU ot a.moderate height; the whde was fi5€j$ frQrnrfnow,( aod apparently deftltuiie o^ wood. We now cacked, and bore away N. W. by W*, bat, ia a fljidiffc time alter wards, thick weather, with rain^ coming on, and the wind incrcaiing, we- hauled moi« f0 the weftjiwai^;: At two o'clock the next mornings thenwind veered ,^0^, W. by S. aiid blew a ftrong g.'de». which aibated Cowards noon* .We now ftbod to tl»e N\;E* till fixlth© laext morning, when we fteered rather more eafterly : tAtfais run,; wcr-met with feveral fca/ Wes, and great numbers of bitxts j fome of which re- fembled fandvlarks^ and others were not larger than l»(lge*fparrowi8i We. alfo faw fome ihags, fa that whj judged vew^ce not fax from land; but, having a tbick rog, wcf could not expert to fee any ; and as the wind bkw iiroQ(9, itiviWMiot deemed prudent to continue a CDiijrfe which wap moft Ukely to bring us to it. From thc.no©nof chis.day, (the i6th of Auguft) to fix. o clock. iathe morning of the feMowiDg, we fleered E. by N. a* conrie whtph bK^udht U8 ioto fifteen fathoms water. We now fteeired ; N» E, by E. thinking, by fuch a cottrfe, t^iacxica&iQMXL^cp^ o£waterw fiut^ in tfw.lpaQc of fix-: leagues. ^ '•St n« CAPTAIN GOOK'n THffeb V6tA6E, leagues, it (lioaled to eleven fathoms, which induced lU to haul clofe to the wind, that noiv^ bl€?w a(t W. About twelve o'clock, both fiin and moon were clearly ^en at intervals, and v^e made fome hafty obrervatiods for the longitude ; which, reduced to noon; when thelati* tude was 70 d. 33 m. N. gave 197 d. 41 m. E. The time-keeper, for the fame time; gaveigS d. - 1 ;;.uC;; .; Some time in the forenoon, we jSerceived a bfightnefs in the northern horizon, like that reflected from ice nfually called the blirk. Little notite was taken of it,^ from a fuppofition tiiat it was improbabk we (hould fo fobn met with ice. The iharpnefs of the air, hov^- cvery and gloominefs of the weatheK'fotfhe two or th^ree preceding days, feemsd to indicate fome illdden change. Abovit an hour afterwards, the (ight;bf an enormous mafs of ice, left us no longer in any doubt refpe^lng the caufe of the- brightnefs of the Jt«ti2t>h. Between two and three o clock, wc tacked cjlofe to the edge of the ice, in twenty-two fathoms water, beittg then in the latitude of 70 d. 41 m. N. and tinablfe to itand on any farther : for the ice was p erfcdiy impenetrable, and ejt-i tended from W. by S; to E. by N. as fat as the eye Go\iild reach. Here we met with great numb6* of fesf horfes; fome of which were in the water, but far more upon the ice. The Commbdore had thoughts df hoiftirig out the boats to kill fome of thefe animals ; but, the wind frefhening, he gave up the defign ; aind we con- tinued to ply towards the S. or rather towaids the W^ for the wind came from that quarter. "We made no progrefs; for, at tvrelve on the i8th, our latitude was 70 d. 4^ m. N. and we were alm«>ft five leagues farther to the E. We were, at prefent, clofe to the edge of the ice, which was as compa ^H ei "^^ ESI 9 ' m ^ -^^M m y ^^S ^ ^^E *" ^^B^ ^' ■ > •%3 V ^mu^ S Zt-J^ if V". not happ( at,wegei Theyd authors h were attac ance, than follow, an of a mufq one at th< The fema] and at the ice or in t dam, thou you deftro when in tl fore fins. has given , the name c a fea horfe a corritptii not in the fame anim and there cow than nothing bi unlike a fe; one of thei feet four in ference: of inches; its feet fix inc the head, f1 four pound a halt*, and t It may i days before flying tot] much large brown colo^ %>•' CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 541 fiot happen, at the firft difcharge, to kill thofe we fired at, we generally loft them, though mortally woundec). They did not appear to us to be fo dangerous as fome authors have rcprefented them, not even when they were attacked. They are, indeed, more fo, in appear- ance, than in reality. Vaft multitudes of them would follow, and come clofe up to tHe boats ; but the flaflfi of a mufquet in the pan, or even the mere pointing of one at them, would fend them down in a moment. The female will defend her young one to the very laft, and at the expence of her own life, whether upon the ice or in the water. Nor will the young one quit the dam, though Ihe fhould have been killed ; fo that, if you deftroy one, you are fure of the other. The dam, when in the water, holds her young one between her fore fins. Mr Pennant, in his oynopfis of Quadrupeds, has given a very good defcription of this animal under the name of the Ar6lic Walrus, Why it fhould be called a fea horfe, is difficult to determine, unlefs the word be a corriiption of the Ruffian name Morfe; for they do not in the leafl refemble a horfe. It is, doubtlefs, the fame animal that is found in the Gulph of St Lawrence, and there called a fea cow. It is certainly more like a cow than a horfe ; but this refemblance confifls in nothing but thefnout. In fhort, it is an animal not unlike a feal, but incomparably larger. The length of one of them, which was none of the largefl, wras nine feet four inches from the fnout to the tail ; the circum- ference: of its body at the fhoulder, was fevcn feet ten inches ; its circumference near the hinder fins was five feet fix inches, and the weight of the carcafe, without the head, fkin, or entrails, was eight hundred and fifty-. four pounds. The head weighed forty-one pounds and a half, and the fkin two hundred and five pounds. , It may not be improper to ;r^mark, that, £br fome days before this time, we had often feen flocks of duqk* flying to the S; They were of two fpecies, the one much larger than the other* The larger fort .was of a brown a)lour \ and pf the fmall fort, dthtv the duck or 3 Y 2^ drake ■yi^A... S4t CAf»TAm COOK'S THIRD VOTAGl. drake was black and white, and the other brown. Some of our people faid that they alfo faw geefe. This feems to indicate, that there muft be land to the northward where thefe birds, in the proper feafon, find fhelter for breeding, and whence they were now on their return to a warmer climate. Soon after we had got our fea horfes on board, we Ivere, in a manner, furrounded with ice ; and had no means of clearing it, but by fleering to the fouthward, which we did till three o'clock the next morning, with a light wefterly breeze, and, in general, thick, foggy weather. Our foundings were from twelve to fifteen fathoms. We then tacked and flood to the northward till ten o'clock, when the wind fhifting to the N. we ftood to the W. S. W. and W.^ At two in the after- noon, we fell in with the main ice, and kept along the edge of it, being partly diredled by the roaring or the fea horfes, for we had an exceeding thick fog. Thus we continued failing till near midnight, when we got in among the loofe pieces of ice. The wind being eafterly, and the fog very thick, we now hauled to the fouthward; and, at ten the next ipornin^, the weather clearing up, we faw the Ameri- can continent, extending from S. by E. to E. by S. and, at noon, from S. W. f S. to E. the diflancc of the neareft |)art being five leagues. We were at prefent in the latitude 0*69 d. 32 m. N. and in the longitude of 195 d. 48 m. £. and, as the main ice was not far firom us, it is evident, that it now covered a part of the fea ; which, ti few days be^fore, had been free from it ; and that it extended farther towards the S. than where we firfl fell in with it. During the afternoon we had but little wind ; and the Mafter was fent in a boat to dbferve whether there Was any current, but he found none. We continued to lleer fbr the American land till eight o'clock, in order to dbtaia^ hearer view of it, and to fearch for a har- bour j bat ie^ng nothing d^t had the appearance of j CAPTAIN^ COOK*« THIRD VOYAGE. 543 dnc, we again flood to the N. with a gentle wefterly breeze. At this time, the coaft extended from S. W. to E. the neareft pa\*t being at the diftance of four or five leagues. The fouthern extreme feemcd to form a point, to which the name of Cape Lilburne was given. It is fituate in the latitude of 69 d. 5 m. N. and in the longitude of 1 94 d* 42 m. E. and appeared to be tolerably high land, even down to the fea ; but there may be low land under it, which we might not then fee, being lefs than ten leagues diftant from it. In almoft every other part, as we advanced to the N. we had found a low coaft, from which the land rifes to a moderate height. The coalt now before us was free from fnow, except in one or two places, and had a greenifti hue. But we coukl not difcern any wood upon it. On Saturday the 2 2d, the wind was foutherly, and the weather for the moft part foggy, with fome inter- vals of funfhine. At eight in the evening, we had a calm, which continued till midnight, when we heard the furge of the fea dafhing againft the ice, and had many lodfe pieces about ns. A light breeze now arofe at N< E. and the fog being very thick, we fteered to the S. to get clear of the ice. At eight the next morning, the fog difperfed, and we hauled towards the W. for the Commodore finding that he could not get to the N. near the coaft, by reafon of the ice, rcfolved to try what could be done at a diftance from it ; and as the wind feemed to be fixed ^t N. he confidered it as a favourable opportunity. In our progrefe to the weftward, the water gradually deepened to twenty-eight fathoms. With the northerly wind the air was iharp and cold ; and we had fogs, funfliine, ihowers oif fnow and fleet alternately. On the 26th, at ten in the morning, we fell in with the ice. At twelve, it extended from N. W. to E, by N. and feemed to be thick and cdmnadt. We were now, by obfervation, in the latitude of 69 d. 36 m. N. and in the longitude of 184 d. £. and it now appeared that^e ha4 544 CAPTAIN COOK's THIRD VOYAGE, had no better profpedl of gettuig to the N. here, than nearer the (hore. We continued (leering to the W. till five in the after- noon, when we were, in fome degree, embayed by the ice, which was very clofe in the N. W. and N. E. quar- ters, with a great quantity of loofe ice about the edge of the main body. At this time, we had baffling light airs, but the wind foon fettled at S. and increafed to a fcedi gale, accompanied with fhowers of rain. We >*got the tack aboard, and ftretched to the E. as this was the only dircdion in which the fea was free from ice. On Thurfday the 27th, at four in the morning, we tacked and flood to the weftward, and at feven o clock in the evening, we were clofe in with the edge of the ice, which lay E. N. E. and \V. S. W. as far in each of thofe diredions as the eye could reach. There being but little wind. Captain Cook went with the boats to examine the ftate 01 the ice. He found it conlifting of loofe pieces, of various extent, and fo clofe together, that he could fcarcely enter the outer edge with a boat ; and it was as impradicable for the (hips to enter it, as if it had been fo many rocks. He particularly remarked, that it was all pure tranfparent ice, except the upper fur- face, which was rather porous. It feemed to be wholly compofed of frozen fnow, and to have been all formed at fea. For, not to infift on the improbability of fuch prodigious mafles floating out of rivers, none of the produdions of the land were found incorporated, or mixed in it; which would certainly Have been the cafe, if it had been formed in rivers, either great or fmall. The pieces of ice that formed the outer edge of the main body, were from forty or fifty yards in exteilt, to four or five ; and the Captain judged, that the larger pieces reached thirty feet or more, under the furface of the water. He alfo thought it highly improbable, th&f this ice could have been the produdion of the pre- ceding winter alone. He was rather inclined to fup- pof^ >\ CAPTAIN COOK*« THIRD VOYAGE. S45 I lofe it to have been the produdion of many winters. t was equally improbable, in his opinion, that the little that now remained of the fummer, could deftroy evea the tenth part af what now fublifted of this great mafs ; for the fun had already exerted upon it the full force and influence of his rays. The fun, indeed, according to his judgment) contributes very little towards reducing thefe enormous mafles. For though that luminary is above the horizon a cortfiderable while, it feldom fhines out for more than a few hours at a time, and frequently is not feen for feveral fucceffive days. It is the wind, or rather the waves raifed by the wind, that brings down the bulk of thefe prodigious mafles, by grinding one piece againft another, and by undermining and wafhing away thofe parts wJiich are . expofed to the furge of the fca. This was manifeft, from the Captain's obierving, that the upper furface of many pieces had been partly waflled away, while thebafe, or under part, continued firm for feveral fathoms round that which appeared above water, like a ihoal round a high rock. He meafurcd the depth of water upon one, and found that it was fifteen feet, fo that the fhips might have failed over. If he had not meafured this depth, he would have been unwilling to believe, that there was afufHcient weight of ice above the furface, to have funk the other fo much below it. It may thus hap- pen, that more ice is defl:royed in one tempeftuous ieafon, than is formed in feveral winters, and an endlcfs accumulation of it is prevented. But that there is con- ftantly a remaining fl:ore, will be acknowledged by every one who has been upon the fpot. A thick fog, which came on while the Commodore was thus employed with the boats, hafl:ened him aboard fooner than he could have wifhed, with one fea horfe to each (hip. Gur party had killed many, but could not wait to bring them off. The number of thefe animals, on all the ice that we had feen, is really ^^onifhing. We fpent the night (landing oflF and on, amongft the drift ice, and at nine o'clock the next morn* ' m 54rt CAPTAIN COOKV THIRD VOYAGE. ing, the fog having in fome degree diipcrfed, boats from each of the (hips were difpatched for lea horfes • for our people by thus time began to reliih them, and* thofe we had belore furniihed ourfelves with, were all confumed. At noon, our latitude was 67 d. 17 m. N. our lon^tude 183 d. .£. and our depth of water was twenty- hve fathomsr At two ia the afternoon, having got on board as many fea horfes as were deeqned fu£ ncient, and the wind frelhening at S. S. E. we hoiiled in the boats, and fteered to the S. W. But being un- able to weather the ice upon this tack, or to go through ir, we made a board to the eadward, till about eight o'clock, then refumed our courfe to the S. W. and were obliged before midnight to tack again, on account pf I the ice. Not* long after,, the wind veering to the N. W. and blowing a ftifFgale, we ftretched to the S. W. ciofe hauled. On the 29th, in the morning, we faw the main ice towards the N. and foon after, perceived land bearing S. W. by W. In a (hort time after this, more land was feen, bearing W. It ihewed itfelf in two hills, rcfem- bling illands, but foon the whole appeared conneded. As we made a nearer approach to the land, the depth of water decreafed very fad, fo that, at twelve o clock, when we tacked, we found only eighteen fathoms; being three miles from the coaft, which extended from •S. 30 d. E. to N. 60 d. W. The latter extremity ter* mihating in a bluft* point, being one of the hills men« tioned before. The weather was now very hazy, with drizzling rain; but, foon afterwards, it cleared up, particularly to the fouthward, weftward, and northward. This en- abled us to have a tolerable view of the coaft j which refembles, in every refpedt, the oppofite coaft of Ame- rica ; that is, low land next the fea, with higher land far- ther back. It was totally deftitute of wood, and even of fnow ; but was, probably, covered with a moffy fubftance, that gave it a browixifti hue. In the low ground that lay between the fea and the high lapd, was a lake, ex- tending CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE. 547 ing to the fouth- ead ward farthe rthan we coul d fee. As we ftood off, the mod wefterly of the two hills above- mentioned, came open off the bluff point, in a N. W. dire£lion. It had the appearance ot an ifland, but it might perhaps be connected with the other by low land, though we did not lee it. And if that be the cafe, there^ is a two-feld point, with a bay between them. This point, which is rocky and fteep, received the name of Cape North. It is iituated nearly in the latitude of 68 d. 36 m. N. and in the longitude of 180 d. 51 m. E. The coaft beyond it doubtlefs affumes a very wefterly dire£lion ; for we could difcern no land to the northward of it, though the horizon was there pretty clear. Wilhing to fee more of the coaft to the weftward, we tacked again, at two in the afternoon, thinking we (hould be able to weather Cape North ; but finding we could not, the wind frefliening, a thick fojg arifing, with much fnow, and being apprehenfive cfthe ice coming down upon us, the Commodore re- linguifhed the deiign he had formed of plying to the weftward, and again ftood off (hore. The feafon was now fo far advanced, and the time when the froft generally fets in was fo near, that Capt. Cook did not think it confiftent with prudence, to make any farther attempts to difcover a paffage irtto the Atlantic Ocean this year, in any diredlion, fo fniall was the probability of fuccefs. His attention was now di- reded to the fearch of fome place, where we might re^ emit our wood and water ; and the objedl that princi- pally occupied his thoughts was, how he (hould pafs; the winter^ fo as to make fome improvements in naviga- tion and geography, and, at the lame time, be in a con- dition to return to the norjhward the enfuing iummer, to profecute his fearch of a paffageinto the Atlantic. . • ■ ^: V)t Vol. II.-N'' 40.7 - • '2 Z '"'':;'"' • The \ 548 CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE. V The S/jips proceed along the Coaft of Afia^^Burnef s JJIand — Cape Serdze Kamen — Pafs the Eqft Cape of Afia^-^ Defcription ofit^^Bay of St Lawrence — Two other Bays " ^-^Beer'tngs Cape TfchukotJkoi-^Steer for the Coqft of *' America — Cape Darby — Bald-Head^Captain Cook lands j^ in fcarch of Wood and Water — Cape Denbigh — Some of b. the Natives conie off to us—Bcjborough IJland— Captain V Cook's Interview with a particular Family — Mr King^s ^i' Interview with the fame Family—Supplies of Wood and fi Wdter-^Mr King fent to examine the Coajl — Viftts from the Natives — Their Huts — Produce of the Country — Mr Kings Report'^Nortons Sound^^Lunar Obfervatiom, HAVING flood off till our foundings were eighteen fathoms, we made fail to the eaflward, along the coaft, which, we were now pretty well convinced, could only be the continent of Afia. Tne wind blowing frefh, and there being, at the fame time, a thick mid, and a very heavy fall of fnow, it was requifite that we fhould proceed with particular cauuon : we therefore brought to, for a few hours, in the night Early the tiext morning, which was the 30th of Auguft, we fteered fuch a courfe as we judged moil likely to bring us in with the land, being guided, in a great meafure, by the land ; for the weather was extremely thick and gloomy, with inceifant fhowers of fnow. At ten o'clock we obtained a fight of the coaft, which was at the diftance of four miles bearing S. W. Soon afterwards, our depth of water having decreafed to feven fathoms, we hauled ofL A very low point now bore S. S. W, diftant two or three CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. SA9 three miles ; to the eaft ward of which there fcemed to be a narrow channel, that led into fome water which we faw over the point. It is not improbahlc, that the lake above-mentioned communicates here with the fea. About twelve o'clock, the mift difperfing, we had a view of the coaft, which extended from S. E. to N. W. by \V. Some parts of it were apparently higher than others ; but the greateft part of it was rather low, with high land farther up the country. It was almoft entirely covered with fnow, which had fallen very lately. Wc ranged along the coaft, at the diftance of about two jeajjues, till ten o'clock in the evening, when we hauled off; but refumed our courfe early on the following morning, when we had another view of the coafl, ex- tending from W. to S. E. by S. At eight o'clock, the eaftcm part bore S. and was found to be an ifland, which, at twelve, was four or five miles diftant, bearing- S. W, i S. It is of a raoderiate height, between four and five miles in circumference, with a fteep rocky coaft. It is fituate ift the latitude of 67 d. 45 m. N. about three leagues from the continent ; and is diftinguiftied in t|ie chart by the appellation of Burney's Ifland. The in- land country, about this part, abounds with hills, fome of which are of confiderable elevation. The land in general was covered witlj fnow, exc:pt a few fpots on the coaft, which ftiil continued to be low, but fome- what lefs fo than farther towards the W. During the two preceding days, the mean height of the mercury in the thermometer had been frequently below the freezing point, and, in general, very little above it ; infomucn that the wa^er, in the veflels upon deck, was often covered with a fheei of ice. We con- tinued to fteer S. S. E. almoft in the direction of the coaft, till five o'clock in the afternoon, when we faw land hearings, cod. E. which proved to be a continua- tion of the coaft. We hauled up for it without delay ; and, at ten iya the evening, being abreaft of the caftern land, and doubtful oiF weathering it, we tacked, and made a board tpwards the W. till after one o'clock the 3 Z 2 next 55* tAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. next morning, (Tuefday, the i ft of September) when we again made fail to the E. The wind was now very unfetded, continually varying from N. to N. E. Be- , tween eight and nine, theeaftern extremity of the land was at the diftance of fix or feven miles, bearing S. by E,- . A head land appeared, at the fame time, bearing E. by S. §S. and not long after, we could difcern the whole coaft that lay between them, and a little illand at fome diftance from it. The coaft now in fight feemed to form feveral rocky points, that were conneded by a low (hore, without any appearance of an harbour. At a di^iance from the fea many hills prefented thcmfelves to our view, the higheft of which were involved in fnowr in otHtt refpeds, the whole country had a naked afped. At feven o'clock in the evening, two points of land, beyond the eaftern bead, opened oif it in the direction of S. 37 d. E. ; , Captain. Cook was now convinced of what he had before imagined, that this was the country of the Tfchut- flci, or the north-eafterh coaft of Afia ; and that Beering had proceeded thus far in the year 1728; that is, to this head, which, according to Ivluller, is denominated Serdze Kamen^ on account of a rock upon it^ that is of the figure of a heart. Tliere are, indeed, many high rocks on this cape, fome one or other of which may perhaps be ihapcd Hke a heart. ^ It is a promontory of tolerable height, with c fteep rocky cliff fronting the fea. Its latitude is 67 d. 3 m. N. and its longitude i88 d. 1 1 m. E. To the II. of it the coaft is elevated and cold 5 but, to the W. it is low, and extends N. \V, by \V. and N. N. W, and it is nearly of the fame di- rection all the way to Cape North. The depth of water is every where the fame at an equal diftance from tie fhort' ; and this is likewife the caie on the oppofite coaft of Anaeriui. The greateft depth we met with, as we ranged along it, was twenty-three fathoms. Dui «iig the night, or in thick foggy weather, the foundings are no CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGIL 551 no bad guide to thofe who fail along either of thefe coafts. On the 2d of September, at eight in the morning, the I mod advanced land to the fouth-eaftward, bore S. 25 d. E. and, from this particular point of view, had an in- fular appearance. But the thick fhowers of fnow, that fell in quick fucceffion, and fettled on the land, conceal- ed from our fight, at this time, a great part of the coaft, in a fliort time after, the fun, which we had not feen for near five days, broke out during the intervals be- tween the (howers, by which means the coaft was, iu ibme degree, freed from the fog ; fo that we obtained a fight of it, and found that the whole was conneded. I The wind was ftill northerly, the air was cold, and the mercury in the thermometer did not rife above ^5 ^r and was fometimes not higher than 30 d. At twelve o'clock our latitude was 66 d. 37 m. N. Cape Serdze Kamen was twelve or thirteen leagues diftant, L.?.aring N. 52 d. W. the mod foutherly point of land that we liad in our fight, bore S. 41 d. E. our foundings were twenty-two fathoms ; and the diftance of the neareft part of the fhore was about two leagues. The weather was now fair and bright ; and, as we were ranging along th6 coaft, we faw feveral of the natives, and fome of icheir dwelling places, which had the appearance of iiillocks of earth. In the courfe of the evening we bafled the Eaftern Cape, or the peine before-mentioned ; from which the coaft trends to the fouth-weftward. This is the fame point of land that wt« had pafled on the nth of the preceding month. Thofe who gave credit to Mr Staehlin's map, then fup- pofed it to be the eaftern point of his ifland Alafchka ; but we were, by this time convinced, that it is no other. than the eaftern promontory of Afia ; and perhaps, it is the proper Tfchukot{koi >Jors, though the promontory' which received that name from Beering, is fituated far^ ther towards the S. W. Muller, in his map of the difcovcricsof the Fuffians, places the Tfchukotlkoi Nofs nearly in the latitude of ! I ■ ''1 'i 5Si .jCAPTAlK COOK»8 THIRD VOYAGE. 75 d N. and extends fomewhat to the eaflward of thi: cape. But Captain Cock was of opinion, that he ha( no good authority for fo doing. Indeed his own, o rather Deihneff's, account of the diflance beiween'th river Anadir and the Nofs, cannot well be reconcile "With (o northerly a pofnion. For he fays, that, wit the moft favourable w^ind, a perfon may go by lea fro the Nofs to the river Anadir in three whole days, an that the journey by land is very little longer. Bui Captain Cook, navin^ hopes of vifiting thcfe part again, deferred the dilcuffion of this point to anothe opportunity. In the mean time, however, he con eluded, as Bcering had done before him, that this wa: ihe eafternmoft point of aF; Afia. It is a peninfula o confiderable elevation, joined to the continent by a ver low and apparently narrow ifthmus. J.c has, ne :*^ ' fea, a fleep rocky plifF; and oJFthe very pdint are k ... jrock refembling fpires. It ftands in the longitude o xgo d. 22 m, K and in the latitude of 66 d. 6 in. N, and is thirteen leagues diftarjt, in the diredion of N, 53 d. W. from Cape Prince of Wales, on the coaft o America. The land about this promontory confifts c Tallies and hills. The former terminate at the fea in lo Ihores, and the latter in fteep rocky points. The 1 appeared like naked rocks ; but the vallies, though def- titute of tree or (hrub, were of a greenifli hue. After we had palTed the Cape, we (leered S. W. | W, towards the northern point of St Lawrence's Bay, ir which our fhips had anchored on the i oth of Auguil We reached it by eight o'clock the following morning and faw fome of the natives ai the place where we lia< before (een them, as well as others on the oppofite fid of the bay. Not one of them, however came off to us •which was rather remarkable, as the weather was fuf ficiently favourable, and as thofe whom we had late! vifited had no reafon to be difpleafed with us. Thel people are certainly the Tfchutfki, whom the Ruffiani had not hitherto fubdued ; though it is manifeft thai ^h9y muft cairy on a traffic with, the Utter, either dired- CAPTAm COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 555 Iv, or by the interpOiition of fome neighbouring nation; as their being in poffcfTion of the (pontoons we faw among thetn, cannot other wife be accounted for. The Bay of St Lawrence * ifl, at the entrance, at leaft jive leagues in breadth, and about four leagues deep, growing narrower towards the bottom, where it feem- ed to oe pretty well (heltered from the fea winds, pro- vided there is a competent depth of water for (hips. The Commodore did not wait to examine it, though he was extremely defirous of finding a convenient har- bour in thofc parts, to which he might refort in the iiHiceeding fpring. But he wilhed to meet with one where wood might be obtained; and he knew that none could be found hiere. From the fouthern point of this bay, which is fituated in the latitude of 65 d. 30 m. N. the coaft trends W. by S. for the fpacc of about nine leagues, and tliere feems to form a deep bay I or river ; or elfe the land in that part is fo low that we I cc'ld not difcern it. in the afternooa, about one o'clock, we faw whjit I was firft fuppofed to be a rock ; but it was found to be ailead whale, v/hich fome Aliatics had killed, and "vere then towing afhore. Th'^y leemed to endeavour to conceal themfelves behind the fifii, in order to avoid being fsen by us. This, however, was unneceflary, for we proct^eded on our courfe without taking notice of thtii' (m the 4th, at break of day, we hauled to the no:- . ; e* ward, for the purpofe of gaining a nearer view ok Ji'^ inlet fecn the day before ; but the wind, not long after, veering to that dirci^ion, the defign was abandoned ; rmd, fteenng tov^rards the S. along the coaft, We paffed two bays, each about fix miles deep. The moft Captain Cook callec! it hy this name, from Ms having am^hor- ed iii it on die 10th of Augull, which is 8t Lawrence's Day. It is worthy of remark, thvit Beering failed by this very place oa Auguft 10, 1728; for which reafon, he deiiomitnted the neigh- k>uring illund after the fame faint. 554 CAPTAIN COOK's THIRD VOYAGE. moft northerly one is fituate before a hill, which iti rounder than any other we liad obferved upon the coaftJ There is an ifland lying before the other bay. It Is a matter of doubt whether there is a fufficient depth off water for (hips in either of thefe bays, as, when we edged in for the (hore, we conftantly met with lhoa|[ water. Tliis part of the country is extremely naked and hilly. In feveral places on the lower grounds next the fea, were the habitations of the natives, near all of which were ereded ftages of bones, like thofe be- fore-mentioned. This day, at noon, our latitude was! 64 d. 38 m. N. and our longitude 188 d. 15 m. E. the neareft pr rt of the (hore was at the diftance of three ori four leagUvj id the moft fouthern point of the con- 1 tinent in fighi oreS. 48 d. W. The wind, by this time, had veered to the N. and ! 'ew a light breeze : the weather was clear, and the air iharp. The Commodore did not think proper to follow the diredion of the coaft, as he perceived that it inclined weftward towards the gulph of Anadir, into which he had no motive for going. He therefore fteered a foutherly courfe, that he might have a fight of | the iile of St Lawrence, which had been difcovered by Beering. This ifland was quickly (etn by us; and, at eight in the evening, it bore S. 20 d. E. fuppofed to be at the diftance of eleven leagues. The moft foutherly point of the main land, w^as, at that time, twelve leagues diftant, bearing S. 13 d. W. Captain Cook cpnjedured, that this was the point which is called by Beering the caftern point of Suchotfki, or Cape Tfchukotflcoi ; an appellation which he gave it with fome propriety, be- caufe the natives, who faid they were of the nation of the Tfchutfki, came off to him from this part of the coaft. Its latitude is 64 d. 13 m. N. and its longitude J 86 d. 36 m. E. The more the Captain was convinced of his being at prefent upon the Ahatic coaft, the more he was at a lofs to reconcile his obfervations with Mr Staehlin's map of the New Northern Archipelago ; and he could find no gther CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 555 other method of accounting for fo important a difference, than by fuppofing tliat he had mirtaken fome parr of what Mr Strchlin denominates the ifland of Alafchlw. for the continent of America, and had miffed the chan- nel by yv' Ich they are feparated. But even on that fuppofition there would ftill have been a confiderable variation. The Captain confidered it as an affair of fomc confequence to clear up this point during tl^e prefent feafon, that he might have only one objcft in, view in the following one. And as thefe northerly iflands were faid to abound with wood, he had fome hopes, if he (hould find them, of procuring a competent fupply of that article, of which we began to iland in great need. With this view he fteered over for the coafl of America; and the next day, about five o'clock in the afternoon, land was feen bearing S, ^ E. which we imagined was Anderfon's Ifland, or ibme other land near it. On Sunday the 6lh, at four in the, morning, we had a fight of the American coaft, near Sledge Ifland ; and, at fix in the evening of the fame day, that ifland was at the diftance of about ten leagues, bearing N. 6 d. E. and the moft eafterly land in view bore N. 49 d. E. If any part of what Captain Cook had conjedured to be the coaft of the American con- tinent, could poffibly be the ifland of Alafchka, it was that now in fight ; in which cafe he muft have miffed the channel between it and the main land, by (leering towards the W. inftead of the E. after he had nrft fallen in with it. He was, therefore, at no lofs where to go, for the purpofe of clearing up thefe doubts. On the 7th, at eight o'clock in the evening, we had made a near approach to the land. Sledge Ifland boro; N. 85 d. W. about eight leagues diftant ; and the eaftem part of the coaPi bore N. 70 d. E. with cleVated land m the diredion of E. by N. At this time we perceived « light on fhore ; and two canoes, with people in them, came off towards, us* We brought to, in order to give them time to approach ; but they refilled all our tokens of amity, and kept at the diftance of a quarter of a mile^ Vol. li.~N'> 40. 4 A We 5S<5 CAFTaIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. We therefore left them, and proceeded along the coaft* The next morning, at one o clock, obfervirig that the Water {hoaled pretty faft, we anchored in ten fathoms, and remained in that lituation till day light came on. We then weighed, and purfued our courfe along the coaft, which trended E. and E. | S. At feven o'clock in the evening we were abreaft of a point, fituated in the longitude of 1 97 d. PI. and in the latitude of 64 d. 2 1 m. N. beyond which the coaft aflumes a more northerly dircdion. At eight this point, which received the ap- pellation of Cape Darby, bore S. 62 d. W. the moft northern land we had in view, bore N. 32 d. E. and the diftance of the neareft part of the fhore was one league. In. this fituation we let go our anchors in thirteen fathoms, over a muddy bottom. On the Qth, at break of day, we weighed, and made fail along the coaft. We now law land, which we fup- pdfed to be two iflands ; the one bearing E. the other S. 70 d. E. Not long afterwards, we found ourfelves near a coaft covered with wood ; a plealrng light, ta whkh we had not been lately accuftomed. As we ad* Vanced northward, land was feen in the dire^on of N. Ei f N. which proved a continuation of the coaft upon which we now w^re : we likewife perceived high land bver the iHands, apparendy, at a confiderabie dif- tance beyond them. This was imagined to be the con- tinent, and' the other land the ifle of Alafchka ; but it was already a matter of doubt, whether we fhould dif- coyera pauage between them, for the water gradually {hoaled, as w6 proceeded further towards the N* In cbnfe<|uehce of this, two boats were difpatched ahead to found ; and the Commodore ordered the Difcovery, as (he drew the lead water, to lead, keeping nearly in the middle channel, between the coaft and the moft no^heirly iiland. In this manner we continued our courfe, till three o'clock in the afternoon, when, having pafted the ifland, our foundings did not exceed three mhoms and a half, and the Reiolution once brougli^p the inud from the bottom. In no part of the chmel CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 557 could a greater depth of water be found, though we had ibunded it from one fide to the other; we th./efore deemed it high time to return. At this time, a head-land on the weftem ihore, to which the name of Bald-head was given, was about one league diftant, bearing N. by W. The coaft ex*» tended beyond it as far as N. K. by N. where it appeared to terminate in a point ; behind which, the coad of the high land, that was i'Qth over the iilands, ftretched it- felf. The (hore on the weftern fide of Bald-head, forms a bay, in the bottom of which is a beach, where we perceived many huts of the natives. We continued to ply back during the whole- night ; and, by day«break on the i oth, had deepened our water fix fathoms. At nine o'clock, when we were about three. miles from the W. (hore, Captain Cook, accom- panied by Mr King, went with two boats, in fearch of wood and water. They landed in that part, where the coaft proje^s into a bluff head, compoled of perpen^ dicular ^rata of a dark blue rock, intermixed with glimmer and quartz. Adjoining to the beach is a nar<- row border of land, which was at this time covered with long grafs, and where they obferved fome angelica; The ground, beyond this, rifes with fome abruptnefs.; towards the top of this elevatioh, they found a heathy that abounded with berries of varibus kinds ; further onward the country v^fas rather level, and thinly .covered with fmall fpruce trees, birch, and willows. They favr the tracks of foxes and deer upon the beach ; in many parts of which, there was a great abundance of drift- wood : there was alfo no want of frefh water. i Our gentlemen and their attendants having returned on board, the Commodore had thoughts of bringing the fhips to an anchor here; but the wind then fhif ting to N. E. and blowing rather on this (hore, he ftretched over to the oppofue one, expcding totind wood there like wife. At eight in the evening, we afichored near die fouthern end orthe moft northerly i0and» for fuch we &ea imagined it to be. The next mornings however^ 4 A a we. Sst CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOTAGE. we found that it was a peninfula, conne^cd with the continent by a low ifthmus, on each fide of which, a bay 18 formed by the coaft. We plied into the fouthernmoft of thefe bays, and call anchor again, about twelve o'clock, in five fathoms water, over a muddy bottom ; the point of the peninfula, to which the appellation of Gipe Den- bigh was given, being one league diftant, in the diredion bf N. 68 d. W. We obferved on the peninfula, feveral of the natives ; and one of them came off in a fmall canoe. Csptain Cook gave this man a knife and fome beads, with which he appeared to be well pleafed ; we made ligns to him to bring us fome provifions, upon which he inftanrly quitted us, and paddled towards the ihore. Happening to meet another man coming off, who had two dried falmon, he got them from him ; and when he returned to our (hip, he refufed to give them to any body except Captain Cook. Some or our people fancied, that hfr afked for him under the name of Capiiane ; but, in this, they were perhaps miftaken. Others of the inhabitants came off foon aitcrwards, and gave us a few dried fifh, in exchange for fuch trifles as we had to barter with them. They Ihewed no difiike for tobacco, but they were moft defirous of knives. \ In the afternoon, Mr Gore was difpatched to the peninfula, to procure wood and watei: ; of the former of which articles, we obferved great plenty upon the beach. Atthefametime, a boat from each of the fliips -was fent to found round the bay ; and at three o'clock, the wind frelhening at N. E. we weighed anchor, and endeavoured to work further in. But that was quickly found to be impracticable, by reafon of the fhoals, which extended entirely round the bay, to the diftance of up- wards of two miles from the Ihore ; as the officers, who had been fent out for the purpofe of founding, reported. \Ve therefore flood off and on with the fhips, waiting for Lieutenant Gore, who returned about eight o'clock in the eveniog, with the launch loaded with wood. He informi^. CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 559 Informed the Commodore, that he had found but little frelh water, and that the wood could not be procured without difficulty, on account of the boats grounding ac fome diftance from the beach. As this was the cafe, we ftood back to the other {hore ; and the next morning, at eight, all the boats, and a detachment of men, with an officer, were fent to get wood from the place where Captain Cook had lancjed on the loth. After having continued, for fome time, to (land off and on with the (hips, we at length caft anchor in lefs than five fathoms, at the diftance of half a league from the coaft, whofe fouthern point bore S. 26 d. W. Cape Denbigh was about twenty-lix miles diftant, bearing {j. y2 d. E. Bald-head was nine leagues off, in the direc- tion of N. 60 d. E. and the ifland near the eaftern fliore, S. of Cape Denbigh., named by Captain Cook, Bclbo- rough Ifland, "was fifteen leagues diftant, bearing S, 52(1. E, This being a very open road, and therefore not a fecure ftation for the fhips, the Commodore refolved not to wait till our ftock of water was completed,, as that would take up fome time ; but only to furnilh both Ihips with wood, and afterwards to feek a more com- modious place for the former article. Our people carried off the drift-wood that lay on the beach, and performed that b'lfinefs with great expedition i Tor, as the wind blew along the (hore, the boats were enabled to fail both ways. In the afternoon Captain Cook went on fhore, and took a walk into the country j which, in thofe parts where there was no wood, abound- ed with heath, and other plants, feveral of which had plenty of berries, all ripe. Scarce a fingle plant was in [lower. The underwood, fuch as birrh, alders, and willows, occafioned walking to be very troublefomc among the trees, which were all fpruce, and none of which exceed feven or eight inches in diameter j but fome were obferved lying pn the beach, that were above twice that fize. All the drift- wood that we &w in thefc iiorthern parts was far. > The 5^ CAPTAIN COOK*l THIRD VOYAGE. The following day, ivhich was Sunday the i ^th iamily of the natives came near the fpot where q\ people were occupied in taking off wood. Th^ Cai tain faw only the hufband and wife, and their chiL befides a fourth perfon, who was the mod deforme] cripple he had ever feen. The hufband was nearll blind, and neither he, nor his wife, were fuch we| looking people as many of thofe whom we had m< with on this coaft. Both of them had their lower lii perforated ; and they were in poffeflion of fome glai oeads, rcfembling thofe we had feen before amonj their neighbours. Iron was the article that pleafed thei ©oit For four knives which had been formed out an old iron hoop, the Captain obtained from them neaj lour hundred pounds weight of iifh, that had been latel] caught bv 'hem. Some of thefe were trout, and oth( were, with refpeffc to fize and tafte, fomewhat hetwec a herring and a mullet. The Captain gave a few beadJ to the child, who was a female ; upon which the mothei imTnejiately burll into tears, then the father, next afiej him the cripple, and at laft, to add the fihifhing ftroke to the concert, the child herfelf. This mufic, however] 'was not of long duration, Mt King had, on the preceding day, be^n in cc |iany with the fame family. His account of this inter- view is to the following purport : While he attendedl the wooding {>arty, a canoe filled with natives, approach-'| cd, out of which an elderly man and woman (the hufJ band and wife above-mentioner!) came aOiore. Mrl King prefented a fmall knife to the woman, and pro- tnifed to give her a much larger one in exchange for fbme fiih. She made iigns to him to follow hen After he had proceeded with them about i. mile, the man fell down as he was crofling a (lony be« cb, and happened f )cut his foot very much. This occafioncd Mr King fr.v ftop; upon which -the woman pointed to her hut- band's eyes, which were covered with a thick, whitiOi film. He afterwards kept clofe to his wife^ who took car^ to apprize him of the obftaclea in hisi way. The inronjian CAPTAIN COOlt»ft THIRD VQYAGl. j5i )man had a child on her back, wrapped up in ttis od of her jacket. After walking about two miles, *y arrived at an open fkin-rboat, wnich was turned oa (ide, the convex part towards the wind, and was ide to ferve for the habitation of this family. Mr png now performed a remarkable operation on the m s eyes. He was firft dtiired to hold his breath, m to oreath on the diftempered eyes, and afterwards rfpit on them. The woman then took both the hands Mr King, and preHing them to the man's ilomach, eld them there tor fome time, while ' (he recounted oDie melancholy hiftory refpe<5ling her family ; fomc- limes pointing to her hufband, fometimes to her child, Ld at other times to the cripple, who was related to m, Mr Kiog purchafed all the fiih they had, which ■(oafifled of excellent falmon, falmon-trout, and mullets jUiefe fi(h were faithfully delivered to the perfon he fenic [jar them. The woman was (hort and fquat, and her vifage was J plump and round. She wore a jacket made of deet wn^ with a large hood, and had on a pair of wide 1 boots. She was pun£lured from the lip to the chiiu [Her hufband was well made, and about five feet two liache^ in height. His hair was black and iliort, and he iiad but little beards His complexion was of a light copper call. He had two holes in his lower lip, ia which, however, he had no ornaments* The teeth of I bdi of them were black, and appeared as if they had; been filed <}own level with the gums. Before night, on the 1 3th, we had amply fumi(hed: the fhips< with wood, and had conveyed on board about' a dozen tons of water to eachi: On; the 14th a party was detached on (hore to cut brooms, and likewise the branches of fpruce trees for brewing beer- About twelve : o'clock all our people wrere taken on board, for the wind; fpeihenihg, had raifed fo heavy a fuif on the beach, that our boats could not continue to, land without extreme: difficulty and danger. As doubd^ were ^ilill-entestsdqed whethec.the coaitp Vpoa W .-~":5 f^2 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. Upon which we now were, belonged to an ifland, cr ti the continent of Amenca,Lieutenant King was dii'patch ed by the Commodore, with two boats well mannec and armed, to make fiich a fearch as miglit tend to re ' move all dift'erence of opinion on the fubjc^. He wa inftruded to proceed towards the north as far as th extreme point feen on Wednefday the 9th, or a littlt ' further, if he fhould find it neceflary^ to land there, and, from the heights, endeavour to difcover whethei the land he was then upon, imagined to be the ifland n: Alafchka, was really an ifland, or was conned:ed witu the land to the eaflward, fuppofed to be the Americani continent. If it proved to be an ifland, he was to ex-i amine thp depth of water in the channel between it and ' the continent, and which way the flood tide came : but, if he fliould find the fwo lands united, he was to return immediately to the fliip. He was directed not to be abfent longer than four or five days ; and it was alio "mentioned in his inftrudidns, that, if any unforefeenor unavoidable accident ftiould force our fhips off th oaft, the rendezvous was to be at the harbour of ^j. noodha. • On Tuefday the 1 5:th, the (hips removed over to the bay on the Ibuth-eaftern fide of Cape Denbigh, where we caft anchor in the afternoon. Not long after, feveral of the inhabitants came off* in canoes, and gave us fome dried falmon in exchange for trifling articles. Early the next morning, nine men, each in a feparate canoe, paid us a vifit, with the fole view of gratifying their curiofity. They approached the (hip with caution, and drawing up abreaft of each other, under our flein, favoured us with a fong; while one of their number made many ludicrous motions with his hands and body, and another beat upon a fort of drum. There was toothing iavage, either in the fong, or the geftures with which it wji s accompanied. There feemed to be no dif- ference, either with refpeft to lize or features, between thefe people, and thofc whom we had feen on every other part of the coaft, except King George's Sound. Their CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE. 562 Their drefs, which chiefly confifted of the (kins of deer, tvas made after the fame mode ; and they had adopted the pradice of perforating their lower lips, and affixing ornaments to them. The habitations of thefe Americans were fituated clofe to the beach. Hiev confill merely of a floping roofi without any fide walls, formed of logs, and cover- ed with earth and grafs. The floor is likewife laid with logs. The entrance is at one end, and the fire-place is juft within it. A fmall hole is made near the door of the hut, for the purpofe of letting out the fmoke. A party of men was difpatched, this morning, to the peninfula for brooms and fprucc. Half the remainder of the people of both (hips were, at the fame time, per- mitted to go adiore and gather berries. Thefe returned on board about twelve o'clock, and the other half then landed for the fame purpofe. ^ The berries found here were hurtle-berries, heath-berries, partridge-berries, and wild currant-berries. Captain Cook aifo went afhore himfelf, and took a walk over part of the peninfula. He met with very good grafs m feveral places, and fcarcely obferved a fingle fpot on which fome vegetable was not growing. The low land by which this penin- fula is united to the continent, abounds with narrow- creeks, and likewife with ponds of water,, feveral of which were at this time frozen over. There were numbers of buflards and gecfe, but they were fo fliy, that it was impoffible to get within mufquct (hot of them. Some f nipes were alfo feen ; and, on the liigher grounds, were partridges of t^\> tpecies ; where there was wood, mufquitoes were numerous. Some of the officers, who went further into the country than Cap- tain Cook did, met with fome of the natives 4 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. ouc by a bank of fand, (lones, and wood, which the waves had thrown up. It was mamfeft from this bank, that the land here encroached upon the fea, and it was not difficult to trace its gradual lorrnation. Lieutenant King returned from his expedition about feven o'clock this evening. He had fet out at eight o'clock at night, on the 14th. The crews of the boats rowed without intermiiHon towards the land, till in the morning of the 15th. They then fet their fails, and ftood acrofs the bay, wbich the coaft forms to the weft- ward of Bald-head. They afterwards, about thrc;j o'clock, again made ufe of their oars, and, by two in the afternoon, had got within two miles of Bald-head, under the lee of the high land. At that time all the men in the boat belonging to the Refolution, except two, were fo opprefled with fatigue and Heep, that Mr King's utmcft endeavours to m^ke them put on were perfedly ineffectual^ They, at length, were fo far exhaufted, as to drop their oars, and lull aJfleep at the bottom of the bo;it In confequence of this, Mr King, and two gen- tlemen who were with him, were obliged to lay hold of the oars ; and they landed, a little after three o'clock, between Bald-head and a point that proje^s to the eailward. Mr King, upon his landing, afcended the heights, from which he could fee the two coafls join, and that the inlet terminated in a fmall creek or river, before which there were bank^ of fand or mud, and in every part (hcai wat^r. The land, for fome diftance- towards the N« was low and fwampy ; then it rofe in hills ; and the perfedl jundion of thole, on each fide of the inlet, was traced without the lead difficulty. ^ From the elevated iituation in which Mr King took his furve)r of the Sound, he could difcem many fpacious ' vallies, with rivers flowing through them, well wooded, and bounded by hills of a moderate height. One of the rivers towards the N. W. feemed to be confiderable ; and he was inclined to fuppofe, firom its dire^^ion, that it • *5w. *»■ it difchari Some of country, f they proc< To this ton's Sou Lord Grai northwarc bay, wher on the fou took by th being exp harbour fo fortuna! E. and the here, with portunity vations, ih as the ?ong iideofi^he With lefp three Ceet, Captain Mr Staehlii mg reftor« which that ifland of I thefe nortl winter, w ments. t harbour oi ly to furni reafons foi of which y for fix or confequen northern < fituation CAPTAIN COOlt*8 THIRD VOYAGE. 56; it diicharged it(e]f into the Tea at the head of the bay. Some of his people, penetrating beyond this into the country, found the trees to be of a larger fize the further they proceeded. To this inlet Captain Cook gave the name of Nor- ton's Sound, in honour of Sir Fletcher Norton, now Lord Grantley, a near relation of Mr Ki ng. It extends northward as far as the latitude v»f 64 d, 55 m. N. The bay, wherein our fhips were now at anchor, is (ituated on the ibuth-eaftem nde of it, and is denominated Chock* took by the natives. It is not a very excellent (lation, being expofird to the S. and S. W. winds. Nor is a harbour to be met with in ail this Sound. We were fo fortunate, howevei*, as to have the wind from the N, L and the N. during the whole time of our continuance here, with very fine weather. Tliis afforded an op-r portunity of making a great number of lunar obfer- vations, the mean refult of which gave 197 d. 13 m. E. as the longitude of the anchoring-place on the weftem- fide of i^he Sound, while its latitude was 64d. 31 m. N, With refpedt to the tides, the night flood role two or three feet, and the day flood wasfc-^ '\y perceivable. Captain Cook being now perfect onvinced, that Mr Stsehlin's map was extremely erroneous and hav- ing reftored the continent of America to the fpace ^ which that gendeman had occupied with his imaginary ifland of Alafchka, thought it now high time to quit thefe northerly regions, and retire to fome place for tlte winter, where he might obtain provisions and refreih- ments. He did not confider Pei. .^paulowflca, or the harbour of St Peter and St Paul in Kamtfchatka, as like- ly to furnifh a fufficient fupply. He had lifcewife oth< . reafons for not going thither at prefent ; the i>rincipal of which was, his great unwillingncfs to remain inaQave for fix or fcven months, which would have been th<5 confequence of palling the winter in any of thefe northern countries. He at length concluded that no Situation was fo convenient for our purpofe as the 4 B 9 SandiWicb i^ (^ $66 CAPTAIN COOK'. T§iKD VOTAC^E, Sandwich Iflands. To them, therefore, he formed a refolution of repaiiing. But a fupply of water being necelTary before he could execute that defign,^ he deter- mined, with a view of procuring this eflential article, to fearch the coaft of America lor a harbour, bv pro- ceeding along it to the fouthward. If he fliould not meet with fuccefs in that fearch, his intention wa» to reach Samganoodhj, which was appointed for out place of rendezvous, in cafe the ibips ihould happen to leparate. Stuart* s J/land difcovered — Lj Situation^ Extent^ &c. — Cape Stephens — Point Shallow-Water — Shoals on the Coafi of JJorth America-^Clerke^s IJland—Gore^s Ifland^^Pinnacle yiand — The Refolution fprings a Leak-^The Ships arrive ct Oonalafhka — Plentiful Supplies of Fifh-^lntercourfe with the Natives y and the Ruffian Traders^-'Mr Ifmyloffcom^ €n board^^Intelligence received from him^^Two Charii "produced by him — Account of the JJlands viftted by the Ruffians — Of their Settlement at Oonalafhka-^Defcription ajthe Natives — Their Drefs — Food-^Manner of Building •-'Mamifa^ures^" Canoes — Implements for Hunting and Wifhing—Fifh and other Sea Animals — Water Fowls— Land Birds-^^uadrupeds — Vegetables — Stones — Repqfiioriis of the Dead^-Difeafes-'Refemblance of the Inhabitants of this Side of America to the E/quimaux and Greenlanders-' '^idesy Lmgitude^ &c. IN the morning of the 1 7th of S jptember, we weigh- ed anchor with a light eafterly oreeze, and fleering to the fouthwardy attempted to pafs within Befborough Jflaad ; but, thoHgh it is Rx or feven miles diftantfrom ' . tbt CAPTAIN COOK** THIRD VOYAGE. 5<5T the continent, wc were prevented, by meeting with flioal water. Having but little wind all the day, we did not pafs that ifland before it was dark ; and the nighc was fpent under an eafy fail. At day-break, on the 1 8th, we refumed our progrefs along the coaft. At noon, our foundings were no more than five fathoms. Befborough Ifland, at this time, bore N. 42 d. E. the moft fouthcrly land in fight, which alfo proved to be an ifland, bore S. 66 d. W. the paf- fage between it and the continent was in the direction cf S. 40 d. W. and the neareft land was at the diftance of about two miles. We continued to fteer for this paflfage, till the boats which were ahead made the fignal for having no more than three fathoms water. In confequence of this, we hauled without the ifland, and difplayed the fignal for the Refolution's boat to keep betweea the (hore and the fliips.^ ^ This ifland, to which the name of Stuart's Ifland was given, lies in the latitude of 63 d. 35 m. N. and is feven- teen leagues diilant from Cape Denbigh, in the diredlion of S. 27 d. W. It is iix or feven leagues in circum- iereiKie. Though fome parts of it are of a moderate height, yet, in general, it is low, with fome rocks off tha weftern part. The greateft part of the coaft of the con- tinent is low land, but we perceived high land up the the country. It forms a point, opposite the ifland, which was diftinguiflied by the name of Cape Stephens, and is fituated in the latitude of 63 d. 33 m. N. and in the longitude of 1 97 d- 41 m. £. Some drift wood waa obfervcd on the Ihores, both of the ifland and of the continent ; but not a fmgle tree was feen growing upon either. VeflTels might anchor, upon occahon, between the eontinent and the N. E. fide of this ifland, in a depth of five, fathoms, fheltered from the eaftcrly, wefterly, and foutherly winds. But this ftation would be entire- ly cxpofed to the northerly winds, the land, in that dircdion, being too remote to afford any fecurity. Be- fore we reached Stuart's Iiland> we paflied two linle ifland*^ Yi J^ CAPTAIN COOK»« THIRD VOYACE. iflands, fituate between us and the mam land ; and as we ranged along the coatt, feveral of the natives made their appearance upon the fhore^ and, by figns, ieemed to invite us to approach. We were no fooner without' the ifland, than wefteer- cd S. by W. for the mod fouthern part of the continent in fight, till eight in the evening, when, the depth of water having decreafed from fix fathoms to lefs than four, we tacked and flood to the northward into five fathoms^ and then pafled the night in ilanding off and on. At the time we tacked, tne fouthernmoft point of hnd above-mentioned, which we named Point Shallow^. Water, bore S. f E. at the diftance of feven leagues. On the 19th, at day-break, we refumed our foutheriy courfe; but fhoal water foon obliged us to haul more to the weftward. We were at length fo far advanced upon the bank, that we could not hold a N, N. W. courfe, as we fometimes met with only four fathoms. The wind blowing frefti at E. N. E. it was now hi^h time to endeavour to find a greater depth of water, and to quit a coafl upon which we could no longer navigate with fafety. We therelbre hauled the wind to the northward, and the water gradually increafed in depth to*cight fathoms. At the time (rf'our hauling the wind, we were about twelve leagues diilant from the continent, and nine to the W. of Stuart's Ifland. We fa w no land to the fouth- ward of Point Shallow- Water, which Captain Cook Judged to lie in the latitude of 63 d. N. fo that between this latitude and Shoal Nefs, in latitude 60 d. the coaft iias not been explored^ It is probably acceflible only to boats, or very fmall veflTels ; or, if there are channels for veflels of greater magnitude, it would require fbme time to find them. From the mafl-head, the fea within us appeared to be checquercd with fhoals ; the water was ▼cry muddy and difcoloured, and much frelher than at any of the places where our fhips had lately anchored. From this we inferred, that a confiderable river runs i^to the fea, in this une;:^jplored part. Aftcf Captain cook's third voyage. 5^ After we had got kito eight fathoms water, we fteercd to the wellward, and afterwards moi Q)utheriy, ft>r the land difcovered by ua on the 5th of September, which at noon on the 20th, bore S. W. by W. at the diflancc of ten or eleven league;^ We haa now a frelh gale at N. and, at intervals, (howers of hail and fnow, with a pretty high fea. To the land before us» the Commo* dore gave the appellation of Gierke's Ifland. It ftands^ in the latitude 01 63 d. 15 m. and in the longitude of 190 d. 30 m. It feemed to he an ifland of confideraHe extent, in which are feveral hills, all conned:ed by low ground, fo that it looks, at a diftance, like a group of iflands. Near its eaftern part is a little ifland, which ia remarkable for having on it three elevated rocks. Both the greater ifland, and this fmaller one, were inhabited. About lix o'clock in the afternoon, we reached the northern point of Gierke's Ifland ; and having ranged along itscoaft till dark, we brought to during the night,- Early the next morning, we again fl:ood in for the coall, and proceeded along it in queft of an harbour, till twelve o'clock, when finding no probability of fui efs, we left it and fteered S, S. W. for the land difcovered by us oa the 29th of July ; having a frefli gale at N. accom- panied with fhowers of fnow and fleet. On Wednefday the 23d, at day-break, the land above- mentioned, made its appearance, bearing S. W. at the diftance of fix or feven leagues. From this point of view, it relembled a clufter of iflands ; but it was found to be only one, of about thirty miles in extent, in the direction of N. W. and S. E. the fouth-eallern extre- mity being Cape Upright, which we have mentioned before. 1 he ifland is narrow, particularly at the low necks of land by which the hills are connedied. Capt, Cook afterwards found, that it was entirely unknown to the Rufllans, and therefore, confidering it as a diicovery of our own, he named it Gore's Ifland. It appeared to be barren and deftitute of inhabitants, at leaft we law none. Nor did we obferve fuch a numb^^rc^ birds about it, as we had feea when we ftrft dii^eri^ it. .(.«•> 'i^ 'H-.^ 570 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. But W€ perceived fome fea-otters, an animal which wft had not found to the N. of this latitude. About twelve miles from Cape Upright, in the diretflionof S. 72 d. W. ftands a fmall ifland, whofe lofty fummit terminates in feveral pinnacle rocks, for whicn rcafon it obtained the name of Pinnacle Ifland. At two o'clock in the afternoon, after we had paiTed Cape Upright, we fteered S. E. by S. for Samganoodha, with a gentle breeze at N. N. W. being refolved to lofe no more time in fearching for an harbour among iilands, which we now began to fufpedt had no exiftence ; at Jeaft, not in the latitude and longitude in which they have been placed by modern delineators of charts. On the 24th, in the evening, the wind veered to S. W, and S. and increafed to a frefli gale. We continued our eafterly courfe till eight in the morning of the 2Cth, when in the longitude of loi d, ' 10 m. and in the latitude of 58 d. 32 m. we tacked and ftood to the weft ward ; foon after which, the gald in- creafmg., we were reduced to two courfes, and clofe- reefed main-top-fails. In a (hbrt time after, the R efolu- tion fprung a leak, under the ftarboard buttock, which was fo conliderable, as to keep one ptimp conftantly em- ployed. We would not venture to put the (hip upon the other tack, from the apprehenlion of getting upon the (hoais that lie to the N. W. of Cape Newenham ; but continued to fteer towards the W. till fix in the evening of Saturday the 26th, when we wore and ftood to the eaftward ; and the leak gave us no farther trouble. This proved that it was above the water-line, which gave ^ us great fatisfadion. The gale had now ceafed, but the wind continued at S. and S. W. for fome days longer. At length, on Friday the 2d of O^ober, at day-break, we faw the ifle of Oona!a(hka, in a S. £. diredion. But as the land was obfcured by a thick haze, we were not certain with refpe^t to our fituation till noon, when the obferved latitude determined it. We hauled into a bay, ten miles to the weftward of Samganoodha, known by Ihe appellation c^ £gooch(hac ^ but findii^ very deep watti? CAPTAIM COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 571 water, we fpeedily left it. ^ The natives vilitcd us at different times^ bringing with them dried fahnon, ^ind other 6(h, which our iailors received in exchange for tobacco. Only a few^ days before, every ounce of to- bacco that remained in tne (hip, had been diftrihuted among them, and the quantity was not half fuiHcient to anfwer their demands. Notwithftanding ihis, fo thoughtlefs and improvident a being is an Kngliih failor, that they were as profufe in making their bar- gains, as if we had arrived at a port in Virginia ; by which means, in lefs than two days, the value of this commodity waslbwered above athoufand per cent. The next day, at one o'clock in the afternoon, we anchored in the harbour of Samganoodha, and, on the morning of the 4th, the carpenters were employed in ripping off the (heathing of and under the wale of the Refolution on the (larboard fide. Many of the feamt were found entirely open ; it was therefore not to be wondered at, that fo much water had got into the (hip. We cleared the iiili and fpirit rooms, and the after-hola ; and difpofed things in luch a manner, that, in ca(e of any future leaks of the (ame nature, the water might Hnd its way to the pumps. Bcfides this work, and completing our ftock of water, we cleared the fore-hold» and took in a quantity of ballad;. The vegetables we had met with when we were here before, were now, for the moil part, in a (late of decay. There being great plenty of berries, one-third of the people, by turns, had permidion to go a(hore and gather them. Condderable quantities oif then: were alfo l)fought to us by the inhabitants. If there were any feeds of the fcurvy ampng the people of other (hip, theie berries, and the ufe of fpruce beer, which tixey were allowed to drink every other day, efiS^ually er;> dicated them. We likewi(e procured abundance of (i(h ; at firft, chiefly ialmon, both fre(h and dried, which the natives brought us. Some of the fi'elh falmon was in the highed: perf(^ioa; but there was one ibrt, which, from the Vol. u.— NO 40. 4G figure i\ ^»i^' 572 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. figure of its head, we called hook-nofed, that was but indifferent. Drawing the feine feveral times, at the head of the bay, we caught many falmon trout, and a halibut that weighed two hui/dred and fifty-four pounds. Wc afterwards had recourfc to hooks and hues. A boat vas fent out every morning, which feldom returned v.ithout eight or ten halibut, a quantity more than fuf- ficient to lerve all our people. Thefe filh were ex- cellent, and there were few who did not prefer them to falraon. Thus we not only obtained a fupply of fi(h for prefcnt confumption, but had fome to carry with us to fea. Captain Cook received, on the 8th, by the hands of a native of Oonalalhka, named Derramoufhk, a very fingular prefent, confidering the place we were in. It was a rye loaf, or rather a pye in the form of a loaf, as it enclofed fome falmon, well feafoned with pepper. This man had brought a fimilar prefent for Captain Gierke, and a note for each of the Cfaptains, written in a character which none of us underftood. It was natural to imagine, that thefe two prefents were from fome Ruilians now in our neighbourhood, and therefore the Captains fent, by the fame meflenger, to thefe unknown friends, a few bottles of rum, wine, and porter, which they fuppofed would be highly acceptable. Captain Cook alfo fent, in company with Derramoufhk, Cor- poral Lediard, of the marines, an intelligent man, for the purpofe of gaining farther information; with orders, that if he met with any Ruifians, he fliould en- deavour to make them undcmand, that we were Eng- liOimen, the friends and allies of their nation. On Saturday the loth, Corporal Lediard returned with three Ruffian feamen, or furriers, who, with feve- ral others, refided at Egoochlhac, where they had fome ftore-houfes, a dwelling-houfe, and a floop of about thirty tons burthen. One of thefe Ruffians was either Mafter or Mate of this veffel. They were all three intelligent, well-behaved men, and extremely ready to give us all the information we could defire. But, for CAPTAIN COOK*i THIRD VOYAGE. 573 for want of an interpreter, we found it very diiHcult to underfland each other. They appeared to have a per- fed knowledge of the attempts which their countrymen had made to navigate the Frozen Ocean, andof thedif- coveries that had been made from Kamtfchatka, by Beer- ing, Tfcherikpflf, and Spangenberg. But they had not the leaft idea to what part ofthe world Mr Staehlin's map referred, when it was laid before them. When Captain Cook pointed out Kamtfchatka, and fome other puces, upon this map, they afked him whether he had feen the iflands there reprefented ; and, on his anfwering in the negative, one of them put his finger upon a part of the map, where a number of iflands are laid down, and faid. that he l^ad cruiied there in fearch of land, but could never meet with any. The Captain then (hewed them his own chart, and found that they were ftrangers to every part ofthe coaft of America, except that which lies op- pofite this ifland. One of thefe men faid, that he had been with Beering in his American voyage ; but he muft then have been very young ; for even now, at the diftance of thirty- feven years, lie had not the appearance of being aged. Never was greater refpedh paid to tlie memory of any eminent perfon, than by tefe men to that of Beering. The trade in which they are engaged, is very advan- tageous, and its being undertaken and extended to the eaftward of Kamtfchatka, was the immediate refult of the fecond voyage of that diilinguifhed navigator, whofe misfortunes proved the fource of much private benefit to individuals, and of public utility to the Ruffian empire. And yet, if hia'diftrefles had not accidentally carried him to the ifland which bears his name, where he ended his life, and from whence the remainder of his ihip's crew brought back fpecimens of its valuable furs, the Rufllians would probably have undertaken no future voyages, which could lead them to make difcoveries in this lea, towards the American coaft. Indeed, after his time, their miniftry feem to have paid lefs attention to rtjis objed ; and« for what difcoyeries have been fince 4C2 made, -A. S14 CAPTAIN COOK*s THIRD VOVAGI. toiade, we are prlncipany indebted to the enterprizlni^ fpirit of private merchants, encouraged, however, by tne fuperintending care of the court of Peterlburg. The three Ruiixans having remained all nieht with the Commodore, vifited Captain Clerke the following morning, and then departed, perfe^ly fatisfied^ith the leception they had met with. They promifed r> return in a few days, and bring with them a chart of tbft iiland^ iituate between Kamtfchatka and Oonalafhka. '" In the evening of the i2|^h, while Captain C&ok and Mi Webber were at a village, not far from Samga* noodha, a Ruiiian landed there, who proved to be the principal perfon among his countrymen in thia and the adijacent ifles. His name was Erafim Gregf^rioff $in Ifmyloff. He arrived in a canoe that carried three per* fons, attended by twenty or thirty fmallcr canoes, each conduded by one man. Immediately after landing, they conftruAed a fmall tent for IfmyloflF, of material<; which they had brought with them, and they afterwards made others for themfelves, of their canoes and paddlea, which they covered with grafs. IfmylofF having in- vited the Captain and Mr Webber into his tent, fet before them fome dried falmon and berries. He ap- peared to be a iiiaki of fenfe ; and the Captain fek no nnaU mortification in not being able to converfe ^ith Kim, except by figns, with the afilftance of figures, and pther chara^ers. The Captain requeued him to favour him with his company on board the next day, and accordingly he came with all his attendants. He had, indeed, moved into the neighbourhood of our (btion, for the exprefs purpofe of waiting upon us. Capt2un Cook veas in hopes of receiving from him the chart which his three countrymen had promifed, but he was difappointed. However, Ifmyloif affured him he fhould nave it, and he kept his word. The Captain found him very well acquainted with the geo- graphy of thofe parts, and with all the difcoveries which had been madem this quarter by the Ruffians. On feeing CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 57^ feeing the modern maps, he inftantly pointed oiit their errors : he faid, he had accompanied Lieutenant Syndo^ or (as he called him) Synd, in his northern expedition : and, according to hi8 account, they did not proceed farther than the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, or rather than St Lawrence's Bay ; for he pointed on our chart to the very place where Captain Cook landed. From thence, he faid, the^r went to an ifland, in the latitude of 63 d. N. upon which they did not land. He did not recolleft the name of that ifland ; but the Captain conjectured, that it was the fame with that to which the appellation of Gierke's Ifland had been given. To what place Synd repaired afterwards, or in what particular manner he employed the two years, during which, according to IfmylofF, his refearcnes laded, he was either unable or unwilling to inform us. Perhaps he did not compre- hend our enquiries on this point ; and yet, in almod every other thing, we found means to make him under- hand us. This inclined us to fufpe^, that he had not really been in this expedition, notwithllanding what he ha4 aflerted. Not only Ifmyloflf, but alfo the others affirmed, that they were totally unacquainted with the American conti- nent to the nortnward ; and that neither Lieutenant Synd, nor any other Ruflian, had feen it of late years. They called it by the fame name which Mr Stsehlin has afHxed to his laree ifland, that is Alafchka. According to the information we obtained from IfmylolFand his countrymen, the Ruilians have made feveral attetnpts to gain a footing upon that part of tHc North American continent, that lies contiguous to Oona- lafl)ka and th. adjacent iflands, hut have condantly been repulfed by tne inhabitants, whom they reprefer\t as a very treacherous people. They made mention of two or three captains, or chief men, who had been murdered by them ; and fome of the Rufiians fhewed us wounds, which they declared they had receive4 there. Ifmyloff* alfo informed us, that « > the year 1 773, an ^xpeditioQ ^;, . ,1.) 'S^^ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. expedition had been undertaken into the Prozen Ocean in fledges, over the ice, to three large iflands, that arc iituate oppolite the mouth of the river Kovym.v But a voyage which he faid he himfelf had performed, en- gaged our attention more than any other. He told us, that, on the i2th of May, I77i» he failed from BoU cheretzk, in Kamtfchatka, in a Ruffian veffel, to Maree- kan, one of the Kurile Iflands, where there isan har- bour, and a Ruffian fettlemcnt. From this ifland he p/oceeded to Japan, where his continuance appears to have been but fnort ; for as foon a3 the Japanele knew that he and his companions profefied the Chriftian faith, they made figns for them to depart ; but did not,, fo far as we GOuld underftand him, offer any infult or violence. From Japan he repaired lo Canton, in China ; and from thence^ in a French fhip, to France. He then* travel- led to Feterfburg, and was afterwards fent out again fo Kamtfchatka. We could not learn what became of the vefffel in which he firft embarked, nor what was the principal intention of the voyage. His being unable to fpeak one word of the French language, rendered this ftory rather fufpicious ; he feemed clear, however, as to the times of his arrival at the different places, and of his depai|ipre from them, which he put down in writing. '^^,i" ' • ' The ne^^ morning (Friday the i6th) he 9ffered Cap- tain Cook a fe'a-otter fkin, which, he faid, was worth eighty roubles at Kamtfchatka. The Captain, however, thought proper to decline the offer ; but accepted of fome dried fifh, and feveral bafkets of the lily, oxfaranne root. In the afternoon, Ifmyloff, after having ciined with Captain Clerke, left us with all his retinue, kmt promifed to return in a few days. Accordingly, ou the 19th, he paid us another vilit, bringing with him the cnarts above-mentioned, which he permitted Captain Cook to copy ; and the contents of which are the tbun- dation of the following remarks. Thefe charts were two in number, they were both iiianufcripts, and bore cyery mark of authentic'ty. One •"> .:.■.■•'': , ■' of CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOTACE. 577 of them comprehended the Penfhinikian feii ; the coaft of Tartary,as low as the latitude of 41 d. N. theKurile Iflands, and the peninfula of Kamtfchatka. Since this chart had been made, Wawfeelee IrkeechofF, a naval cap^ tain, explored, in the year 1758,5 the coaft of Tartarjr* from Gkotfk, and the river Amur, to Japan, or 41 d. of northern latitude. We were informed by Mr Ilmyloffi that a great part of the fea coaft of Kamtfchatka had been correAed by himfelf ; and he defcribed the inftrumcnt ufed by him for that purpofe, which muft have been a theodolite. He alfo told us, that there were only two harbours proper for fhipping, on all the eaftern coaft of Kamtfchatka, viz. the bay of Awatfka, and the river Olutora, in the bottom of the gulph of the fame name ; that there was not one harbour on its weftern coaft ; and that Yarafk was the only one, except Okotflc, on all the weftern fide of the Penfhinikian fea, till we come to the river Amur. The Kurile Iflands contain but one harbour, and that is on the N. E. fide of Mareekan ; where, as we have already mentioned, the Ruffians hava afettlement. The other chart comprehended all the difcoveries that the Ruffians had made to the eaftward of Kamtfchatka, towards America. That part of the American coaft, with which TfcherikofTfell in, is laid down in this chart betvt^een the latitude of 58 d. and 58 r d. N. and 75 d. of eaftern longitude, from Okotfk, or 2 1 8 f d. from Green- wich; and the place where Beering anchored in.591 d of latitude, and 6^ I d. of longitude from Okot{k,or 207 d; from Greenwich.. To fay nothing of the longitude, which may from feveral caufes, be erroneous, the lati- tude, of the coaft, difcovered by Beering and Tfcherikof^ particularly that part of it which was difcovered by the latter, differs confiderably from Mr Muller's chart. Whether the chart now produced by Ifmyioftj or that ofMuller, be moft erroneous in this refped, it may be difficult to determine. According to IfmylofF's account, neither the number nor the ficuatipn of the iflauds which arc difperfed be^ twecn 578 CAPTAIN COOK't THIRD VOYAGE. tween 52 d. and S5 d. of latitude, in the fpace between Kamtfchatka and America, is properly afcertained. He ftruck out about a third of them, aiTuring us^ that they did notexid ; and he confiderably altered the fauation of others; which, he faid, was ncceifary, from the ob^ ierrations which he himfelf hath made ; and there was joo reafon to entertain a doubt about this. As thefa iflands are nearly under the fame parallel, different na* vigators, milled b)r their difleremt reckonings, might eauly miftake one ifland, or duller of iflands, for ano- ther; and imagine they had made a new difcovery, when they had only found old ones, in a pofition Tome- what different from that which their former vificors had aifigned to them. The ides of St Theodore, St Stephen, St Abraham, St Macarius, Sedu^ion Ifland, and feveral others, which are reprefented in Mr Muller's chart, were not to be found in this now produced to us ; nay, IfmylofT and the other RuiHans aiTured Ca[)tain Cook, that they had been frequently fought for without effect. Neverthe- left, it is difficult to believe, that Mr Muller could place them in his chart, without fome authority. Captain Cook, however, confiding in the teftimony of thefe peo* pie, whom he thought competent witnelfes, omitted them in his chart ; and made fuch corredlions refped- log the other iAands, as he had reafon to think were neceffarv. We uiali now proceed to give fome at <:cunt of the iflands, beginning with thofe which art neareO; to Kamtfchatka, and computing the longitude from the harbour of Pctropaulowfl^ia, in the bay of Awatfka. The firll is Beering's Ifland, in ^5 d. of northern latitude, and 6 d, of eaftern longitude. At the dif- tance of ten leagues from the fouthern extremity of diis, in the diredion of £. by S. or £. S. E. Hands Maidenoi OJiroff^ or the Copper Ifland. The next ifland Is Atakou, hi the latitude ofj2 d. 45 m. and in the lon- gitude of 15 d. or x6 d. The extent of this ifland is About eighteen leagues in the dire<(^ion of £» and W. »Qd ¥ ■ CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. Sl3 and it is perhaps the fame land which Beering fell in with, and to which he gave the name of Mount St John, We next come to a clufter of fix or more iflands ; two of which, Amluk and Atghka, are of confiderable ex- lent, and each of them has a good harbour. The mid- dle of this group lies in the latitude of 52 d. 30 m. and 28 d. of longitude, from the bay of Awatfka ; and its extent is about four dep^rees, in thediredion of eaftand weft. Thefe are the ifles that IfmylofF faid were to be removed four degrees to the eaft ward. In the fituation they have in Captain Cook's chart, was a group, com- prehending ten little iflands, which, we were informed, were entirely to be ftruck out ; and alfo two iflands, fituate between them and the group to which Oonalafti- ka appertains. In the place of thefe two, an ifland, named Amoghta, was introduced. The fituation of many of thefe iflands may, perhaps, be erroneoufly laid down. But the pofition of the largf- eft group, of which OonalaOika is one of the moft con- fiderable iflands, is free from fuch errors. Moft of the iflands that compofethis clufter, were feen by us ; their longitude and latitude were therefore determined with tolerable accuracy, particularly the harbour of Samga- noodha, in Oonalaflixka, which muft be confidered as a fixed point. This group may be faid to extend as far as Halibut Ifles, which are forty leagues diftant froni Oonalalhka, towards the E. N. K. Within thefe ifles, a paflage, communicating with Briftol Bay, was marked in IfmylofF's chart ; which converts about fifteen leagues of the coaft, that Captain Cook had fuppofed to be part of the continent, into an ifland, named Oonee- mak. This paflfage might eafily efcape us, being as we were informed, extremely narrow, ftiyllow, and only to be navigated through with boats, or veflTels of very fmall burthen. From the chart, as well as from the teftimony of Ifr myloff'and his countrymen, it appears, that this is as far as the Rufiians have made any difcoverics, or have ex- gy': ■ ! 5«o CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. tended themfelves, fince the time of Beering. They all affirmed, that no perfons of that nation had fettled them- felves fo far to the eaftward, as the place where the na- tives gave the note to Captain Gierke ; which bein^ de- livered to IfmylofF for his penifal. he faid, that it had been written at Oomanak. From him we procured rhe name of Kodiak*, the largcil of Schumagm/s Iflands ; for it had no naine afligned to it upon the chart which he produced. It may not be Improper to mention, that no names were put to the iflaiids which IfmylofF faid were to be ftruck out of the chart j and Captain Cook confidered this as fome confirmation, that tney have no exiflence. The American continent is here called, by the Ruf- fians, as well as by the iflanders, Alafchka ; which ap- pellation, though it properly belongs only to that part which is contiguous to Ooneemak, is made ufe of by them when fpeaking of the American continent In ge- neral. This is all the iritelligence we obtained from thefe people, refpeding She geography of this part of the gloBe ; and perhaps this was all the information they were able to give. For they repeatedly affured Captain Cook, that they knew of no other iflands, befides thofe which were reprefented upon this charts and that no Ruflian had ever vifited any part of the American con- tinent to the northward, except that which is oppolite the country of the Tfchutfkis. If Mr Staehlin was not greatly impofed upon, what could induce him to publifli a map fo fmgularly errone- ous, as his map of the New Northern Archipelago, in which manv of thefe iilands are jumbled together with- out the leaft regard to truth ? Neverthelefs, he himfelf ftyles it ** a very accurate little map.*' IfmylofF continued with us till theevening of the 2 1 ft, when he took his final leave. Captain Cook entrufted to his care a letter to the Lords of the Admiralty, enclo- sing * A Ruffun fliip had touched atKodiak lu the year 177^0. CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 581 fing a chart of all the nofthcrn coafts ^e had vifited. IfmylofF faid there would be an opportunity of ttaftfmit- ting it to Kamfchatka, ot Okotfti in the cou^fe of the fuceeeding fpring ; and that it would be at f etet(1>urg the following winter. He gave the Captain a letter to Major Behm, Governor of Kamtfchatka, who refides dt Bolcheretik in that peninfula ; and another to the com- manding officer at Petropaulowflca. Mr Ilmyloff feemed to poflTeft abilities that might en- title him to a higher ftation than that in which we found him. He had confiderable kro\Vl€dge in aftronomy, and iri the moft ufeful branches of the mathematics. Captain Cook made him a prefent of anHadley*s odlant; and though, perhaps, it was the firft he had ever feen, he very quickly made himfelf acquainted with moil of the ufes to which that inftrument can be applied. On Thurfday the 2 2d, in the morning, we made an attempt to get out to fca, with the wind at S. E. but did not fucceed. In the afternoon of the 23d we were vi- fited by one Jacob Ivanovitch SopofnicofF, a Ruffian, who commanded a fmall veffel at Oomanak. This man feemed very modeft, and would drink no ilrong liquor, of which the other Ruffians, Whom we had met with here, were e:«ctremely fond. He appeared to know what fupplies dould be obtained at the harbour of St Pe- ter atid St Paul, and the price of the various articles, piiore accurately than Mr IlmylofF. But, by all accounts,' everything, we (hould have occafion to purchafe at that ^!ace, was very fcarce, and bore a high price. This man informed us, that he was to be at Petiopaulowfka in the enfuing May ; and, as we underftood, Was to have the charge of Captain Cook's letter. He feemed very defirous of having fome token from the Captain to carry to Major Behm j and, to gratify him, the Cap- tain fent a fmall fpyiflg-glafs. After we had contraSed an acquaintailce with thefe Ruffians, feveral of our gentlemen, at different times, vifited their fettlement on theifland, where they always met with friendly treatment. It confiftedof a dwelling- 4 D a houfc N .1 S8a CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. houfe and two flore-houfes. Qefides the Rufllans, there was a number of the Kamtfchadales, and of the OonalaQikans, as fervants to the former. Some other natives of this ifland, who appeared to be independent of the Ruflians, lived at the lame place. Such of them as belonged to the Ruflians, were all of the male fex ; and they are either taken or purchafed from their parents when young. There were, at prefent, about twenty of thefe who could be confiderea in no other light than as children. They all refide in the fame houfe, the Ruflians at the upper end, the Kamtfchadales in the middle, and the Oonalafhkans at the lower end, ^here is fixed a capacious boiler for preparing their food, which principally confills of fifh,.with the addition of wild roots and hemes. There is no great diflerence between the firil and lafl table, except what is produced by cookery, by which the Rujftians can make indifferent things palatable. They drefs whales flefh in fuch a manner as to make it very good eating ; and they have a kind of pan-pudding of falmon-roe, beaten up fine and fried, which is a tolerable fubflitute for oread. They may perhaps, occafionally, tafte real bread, or have a dilh in which flour is one of the ingredients. If we except the juice of berries, which they generall- ' fip at their meals, they drink no other liquor than pure water ; and it feems to be very fortunate for them that they have nothing flronger. As the ifland nimifhes them with fubfiflence, fo it does, in fome meafure, with clothing. This is chiefly compofed of fkins. The upptT garment, which is made like a waggoner's frock, reaches down to the knecF. Befides this, they wear a waiilcoat or two, a pair of breeches, a fur cap, and a pa. of boots, the legs of which are formed of fome kmd of flrong gut, but the foles and upper leathers are of Ruffian leather. Their two Chiefs, IfmylofF and Ivanovitch, wore a calico frock ; and they, as well as feveral others, had fhirta of filk. . Many Ruflians are fetded upon all the raofl confider- ablc •&■> able I i t ^ <• V k^ th( inquu our ji the n; 776 As to all people CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VO/AGE. 583 able iflands between Kamtfchatka and Oonalafliica, for the purpofe of colleding fiirs. Their principal objedl is the fea-beaver or ctrer; but fkina of interior value alfo make a part of their cargoes. We neglected to inquire how long they have hadafettlement upon Oona-* laflika, and the neignbouring iflands ; but if we form our judgment on this point from the great fubjeftion the natives are under, this cannot be of a very late date.* Thefe furriers are, from time to time, fucceeded by others. Thofe we faw arrived here from Okotlk in 1776, and were to return in 1 78 1. As for the native inhabitants of this ifland, they arc, to all appearance, a very peaceable, inoffenfive race or people ; and, in point of honefty, they might ferve as a pattern to ^he mod civilized nations. But, from what we faw of their neighbours, with whom the Ruffians are unconnedied, we have fome doubt whether this was their original difpofition ; and are rather inclined to be of opinion, that it is the confequence of their prcfent ftate of fubje£tioh. Indeed, if we did not mifunderftand the Ruffians, they had been under the -neceffity of making fome fevere examples before they could bring the iflanders into tolerable order. If feverities were really inflided at firft, the bell excufe for them is, that they have produced the moft beneficial effects ; and, at pre- ient, the greateft harmony fubfifts between the Ruffians and the natives. The latter have their own chiefs in each ifland, and feem to enjoy liberty and property without moleflation. Whether they are tributaries to the Ruffians, or not, we could never learn; but we had fome reafon to fuppofe that they are. The people of^Oonalaflika are in general rather low of liature, but plump, and well fhaped. Their necks are commonly fhort, and they have fwarthy chubby faces. They have black eyes, and fmall beards. Their hair is long. * According to Mr Coxe, in his account of the difcoverics of the; Ruffians, they began to frequent Oonalaibka in the year 1 7<52. 514 CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOYAOl. long, black, and ftraight : the men wear it loofe behind, and cut before ; but the women generally tic it up in a bunch. The drefs of both fexes is the fame with refpeQ to fafhion, the only difference is in the materials. The frock worn by the women is made of the (kins of feals ; and that of the men, of the fkins of birds; both reach below the knees.' This conftitutes the whole drefs of the females. But, over the frock, the men wear ano* ther compofed of gut, wklcu water cannot penetrate ; it has a hood to it, which is drawn over the head. Some of them wear boots ; and all of them wear a fort of oval fnouted cap, made of wood, with a rim that ad- mits the head. They dye thcfe caps with green and Other colours ; and round the upper par* of the rim they fix the loftjg briftled of fome fea animaL on which glais beads are f&ung ; and on the front is a fmall image tt two formed of bone. "^ ey do not toake ufe of paint : but the women puncture their faces (lightly, and both fexes perforate the lower lip, in which they fix piieces of bone. But it is as uncommon here to lee a mart with this ornament, as to obferve a woman wit|i* out it. Some fix beads to the upper lip under the nof- trils ; sind they all fufpend ornaments in their ears. Fifh and other fea animals, birds, roots, berries, and even fe^weed, compofe their food. They dry quan- tities of fifh during the fummer, which they lay up in itnall huts for their ufe in winter ; and, probably, they preferve berries and roots for the fame feafon of Icarcity. They eat irtoil of their provifions raw, Boiling and broiling were the only methods of cookery that we faw praftifcd among them ; And the former they in all pro^ bability learnt from the Rufiians, Some have in their poireflion fiiiall brafs kettles ; and thofe who have not, make one of aflat ftone,with fides of clay. Captain Cook once happened to be prefent, when the chief of this ifland made his dinner of the raw head of a large halibut, juft caught. Before any part of it was . given to the chief, two of bis f^rvants eat the gills, with ^0 '#-■ ■-#», c 5i S5 \^\ I *& s ^^ n no other this^one it to th( himfeli fomc gra and the r large pie reach of « tisfadion of the he Vanta, wl ed the b< As th( in their themfelvi The folic the groui feet in le fions are : form the and then fembles a fquare op openings other beii ance of 2 cut. In below, b\ and ends dwell tog they flee] fort of cc the houfi pretty cl< t;he midd milies. receptacl the urin< means ir •"?iv. CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 585 no other drefling than fqueezing out the flime. After this^one of them having cut offtne head of the fi{h, took it to thjiyea, and waChed it, then came with i^ and feated hiinfel^y the chief; hut not before he had pulled up Tome grafs, upon a part of which the head was placed, and the reft was ftrewed before the chief. He then cut large pieces off the cheeks, and put them within the reach of the chief, who fwallowed them with great fa- ^ tisfa^ion. When he h^d hnifhed his meal, thej'emains of the head being cut in pieces, were given to the fer- vants, who tore off the meat with their teeth, and gnaw- ed the bones like fo many dogs. As the Oonala(hkans ufe no paint, they are lefs dirty in their peribns than thofe favages who thusbefmear themfelves; but they are full as filthy in their houfes. The following is their method of building : they dig in the ground, an oblong pit, which r^lrely exceeds hfty feet m length, and twenty in breadth ; but the dimen*- fions are in general fmaller. Over this excavation they form the roof of wood^ which they cover firft with grafs, and then with earth, io that the external appearance re- fembles a dung-hill. Near each end of the roof is left a fquare opening, which admits the light ; one of thefc openings being intended only for this purpoll% md the other being alio ufed to go in and out by, with the aiTift- ance t>f a ladder: or rather a poll, in which ileps irt cut. In fome 01 the houfes there is another entrance below, but this is rather uncommon. Round the iide$ and ends of the habitations, the families, feveral of whijoli dwell together, have their feparate apartments, where they fleep, and fit at work ; not on benches, but in a fort of concave trench, dug entirely round the infide of the houfei and cpvcred with mats, lo that this part is kept pretty cleats and decent. The fame cannot be faid of t;he middle of the houfe, which is common to all the fa- milies. For^ though it is covered with dry grafS| it is a receptacle for every kind of dirt, and the place where the urine trough (lands ; the ftench of which is by no means improved by raw hides, or leather, being almoil con-* ^' ■v„ - y — ,^^,fiu* *;#Ji 585 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. continually fteeped in it. Behind, and over the trench, they place the few efFedsthat they have in their poffei- lion, inch as their mats, Ikins, and apparel. . ^ Their furniture conf ills . or buckets, cans* iwooden bowls, fpoons, matted bafkets, and fometimes a Ruffian kettle or pot. All thefe utenfiis are made in a very neat manner ; and yet vre obferved no other tools among them than the knife and the hatchet ; that is, a fmall flat piece of iron, made like an adze, by fixing it into a crooked wooden handle. • Though the Ruffians live among thefe people, we found much lefs iron in pofleffion of the latter, than we had met. with among other tribes on the neighbouring continent of America, who had never feen the Ruffians, nor perhaps had any intercourfe with them. Probably a few beads, and a fmall quantity of tobacco and fnuff, purchafe all they have to Ipare. There are few of them that do not both fmoke and chew tobacco, and take fnuff. They did not appear to be very defirous of more iron, or to want any other inftruments, except fewing needles, their ov/n being formed of bone. With thefe they few their canoes, and make their clothes, and alfo work \ery curious embroidery. They ufe, inilead of thread, the fibres of finews, which they fplit to the thicknefs which is required. All fewing Js performed by the females. They are the (hoe-makers, taylors, and boat-builders, or boat-coverers ; for the men, in all pro- bability, conftrudl the wooden ftame, over which the fkins are fewed. They manufacture mats, and balkets of grafs, which are both ftrong and beautiful. There is, indeed, a neatnefs and perfection in moft of their "work, tliat fhews they are neither deficient in ingenuity nor perfeverance. We did not obferve a fire-place in any one of their habitations. They are lighted, as well as heated, by lamps; which, though fimple, effectually anifwer the purpofe for which they are intended. They conlift of » flat (tone, hollowed on one fide like a plate j in the hoHow Ik »ri( * -...Ml Lk:i,= ■;i.'^r, 1 •w^ hollow felve^ their 1( it for both b (tones hrimft( thod is of whi( a1)0iit the fticl as a dri This m only pr dales, tl landers, nations, ed an ai that aa agreeTTii wholly hand, w between are of d We f among: ^ fuppoi'ei fencelefj own (ec tives, lil permit t can har( found t we obfei ed to th The than an^ from wi Vol. IJ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 587 hollow part they put the oil, mixed with fomc dry grals, whicji ierves for a wick. Both I'exes often warm them- felve^ over one of thefe lamps, by placing it between their legs, under their garmrnts, and fitting thus over it for I'evcral minutes. Thefe people produce fire both by collifon and attrition ; the iirfl by ftriking two flones againfl ench other, on one of which a quantity of hrimftoiic has been prcvioufly rubbed. The latter me- thod is performed by means of two pieces of wood, one of which is flat, and the other is a ftick of the length of a1)out a foot and a half. They prefs the pointed end of the ftick upon the other piece, whirling it nimbly round as a drill, and thus fire is procured in a few minutes/ This method is common in many countries. It is not only pracftifed by thefe people, but alfo by the Kamtlcha- dales, the Greenlanders, the Otaheiteans, the New Hoi- landers, and the Brazilians, and probably by other nations. vSomc men of learning and genius have found- ed an argument on tliis cullom, to prove that this iu\d that nation are of the fame extradlion. But cafual agreements, in a few particular inftancer., will not wholly authorize fuch a conclulion ; nor, on the other hand, will a difagreement, either in manners or cuftoms, between two different nations, prove of courfe that they are of different extra dlion. We faw no offenfive, nor even dcfenfive weapon among the natives of Oonalafhka. It can fcarcely be fuppofed that the Ruffians found them in fuch a dc- fencelefs (late ; it is rather to be imagined, that, for their own fecurity, they have difarmed them. Political mo- tives, likewife, rnay have induced the Ruffians not fo permit thefe iflanders to have any large canoes ; for we can hardly believe they had none fuch originally, as we found them among all their neighbours. However, we obferved none here except UVb or three that belong- ed to the Ruffians. • The canoes in ufe among the natives, are uuallcr than any of thofe we had feen upon the coaft of America, from which, however, they differ butiitde in their con- Vol. II. N^. 4£. 4E Ilrudio^;i. ■KS ^ X ,}i 1.- -''M iP 1 ^H T' 'ntmf^'ti A\ •' eff'jJQ I-' t^V*'«^PF l» !Hs!':^ 11 i m SS9 '^i?"'" 588 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. ftrudion. The form of thefe terminates fomewhat abruptly ; the head is forked, and the upper point of the K>rk projv^-dVs without the under one, which is level with the furface of the water. It is remarkable that they (hould thus conftrud them, for the fork generally catches hold of every thing that comes in the way ; to pre- vent which, they fix a piece of linall ftick from one point to the other, in other refpedls they build their canoes after the manner of thofe of the Efquimaux and Green- landers ; the frame being of (lender laths, and the cover- ing of the ikins of feals. '^' cy are about twelve feet in length, eighteen inches in breadth in the middle, and twelve or fourteen inches in depth. They fometimes carry two perfons, one of whom fits in the leat, or round hole, which is nearly in the middle ; and the other is ftretched at full length in the canoe. Round this hole is a rim or hoop of wood, about which gut-fkin is fewed, ■which can be drawn together, c«- opened like a purfe, with leathern firings fitted to the outer edge. The man fits in this place, draws the fkin tight about his body over his gut-frock, and brings the ends of the thongs, or purfe-ftrings, over his fhoulder. The fleeves of his frock are fallened tight round his wrifts ; and it being clofe round his neck, and the hood being drawn over his head, where his cap co! dines it, water cannot eafily penetrate, either into t-ie canoe, or to his body. If, however, any waier O.ould find means to infinuatc itfelf, the boatman djies it up with a piece of fpunge. He makes ufe of a double bladed paddle, which is held with both hands in the middfe, ilriking the water firft on one fide, and then on the other, with, a quick regular motion. Thus the canoe is impelled at a great rate, and in a direction perfedly ftraight. In failing from Egoochfhak to Samganoodha, though our fhip went ar the rate of feven miles an hour, two or three canoes kepi pace with her. Their implements for hunting and fifhing lie ready upon their canoes, under ftraps fixed for the purpofe. 1 lie are all extremely well made of wood and bone, and are CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 5^9 are not verj'- diftbrent from thofe iifed by the Green- landers. The only difference is in the point of the miffile dart ; which, in feme that we Hiw at this iflund, does not exceed an inch in length ; whereas thofc ».)f the Greenlandcrs, according to Grantz,are about eighteen inches long, Indeed thefe darts, as well as fomeot/iers of their inltniments, are extremely curious. Their darts are generally made of fir, and are about four feet in length. One end is formed of bone, into w! ich by means of a ibcket, another imall piece of bone, v.hich is barbed, is -fixed, but contrived in fuch a man er, as to be put in and taken out without trouble: th*- ;, fecured to the middle of the ftick by a ftrong, though thin piece of twine, compofed of finews. The bird, iifli. or other animal is no fooner llruck, tlian the pointed bone flips cut of the focket, but remains {iKcd in its body by means of the barb. Tlie dart then ferves as a float to trace the animal, and alfo contributes to fatigue it confiderably, fo that it is ealily taken. They throw thefe darts by the affiftance of a thin piece of wooil, twelve or fourteen inches long ; the middle of this is (lightly holloaed, for the better reception of the weapon ; ana at the- termi-» nation of the hollow, which does not e^tend.to the end, is fixed a fhort pointed piece of bone, to prevent the dart from flipping. The other extremity is furniflied with a hole for the reception of the fore-finger, and the fides are made to coincide with the other finc^ers and thumb, in order to grafp with greater firmnefs, The natives throw thefe dar to the diftance of eighty or ninety yards, with gre •' 'orce and dexterity. They are exceedingly expert in ftriking fifli, both id the fea, and in rivers. They alio ufe hooks av, d lines, nets and wea rs. The lines are formed of twilled finews, and the hookft of bone. Whales, porpoifcs, grarapufes, haiibnt, fword-fifli, falmon, trout, cod, foal?, flat-hlh, and feveral otlier forts, are found here ; and there may be many more that we had not an opportuirlty of iLeing. Salmon and halibut appear to be in the greateO plenty ; and on them the 4 E ?. , people im 590 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. people of thefe ifles principally fubiift ; at leaft, they were the only Ibrt of filli, except cod, that we oblervej to be laid up for their v/ inter llore. Seals, and all that tribe of iea animals, are not fo numerous as they are in many other leas. Nor can this be thought furprizing, iince there i^^ hardly any part of the coaft, on either continent, nor any of thefe illandsjlituate between them, but what is inhabited, and whole inhabitants hunt thefe animals for their food and clothing. Sea horfes are, indeed, to be found in pro- digious numbers about the ice ; and ihe lua otter is fcarce any where to be met with but in this fea. An animal was fometimes feen by us, that blew after the manner of whales. It had a head refembling that of a feal. It was larger than that animal, and its colour was white, with dark fpots interfperled. This was perhaps the vianaii^ or fea cow. Water fowls are neither found here in fuch numbers, nor in fuch variety, as in the northern parts of the Atlantic Ocean. However there are fome in thefe parts, that we do not recoiled: to have feen in other countries ; particularly the alca monochroa of Steller, and a black and white duck, which we judge to be different -from the 'ftone duck that KrafheninikofF has defcribed in his Hiftory of Kamtfchatka. All the other birds we faw are mentioned by this author, except fome which we obferved near the ice ; and the greateft part of thefe, if not all, have been defcribed by Martin, in his voyage to Greenland. It is fomcwhat extraordinary, that pen- guins, which are fo frequently met with in many parts of the world, fhould not be found in this fea. Albatrolles too are extremely fcarce here. The few land birds feen by, us are the fame with thofe of Europe j but there w^ere probably many others which we had no opportunity of obferving. A very beautiful bird was fhot in the woods at Norton Sound : which, we underftand, is fometimes found in England, and known by the appellation of chatterer. Our people law other iinall bir4s there, but in no great abundance ,/. . '"^ or CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 59^ or variety ; rucli as the bullfinch, the wood- pecker, the yellow-linch, and tit-moure. Our excurfions and obrervanons being confined to the fea coalt, we cannot be expected to have much knowledge of the animals or vegetables of the country. There are few other infedls beiides raufquitoes, and wc faw few reptiles except lizards. There are no deer at Oonalafhka, or any of the neighbouring iflands ; nor are there any domeftic animals, not even dogs. Weafels and foxes were the only quadrupeds we obferveJ ; but the natives told us, that they had likewife hares, and the war?nottas mentioned by ICrafiienlnikolt. Hence it ap- pears, that the inhabitants procure the greatefl (hare of their food from the fea and rivers. They are alfo indebt- ed to the fea for all the wood which they ufe for build- ing, and other necelTary purpofcs ; as there is not a tree to be feen growing upon any of the iilands, nor upon the neighbouring coalt of the continent. The feeds of plants are faid to be conveyed by various means, from one part of the world to another ; even to iflands lying in the midll of exteniive oceans, and far diflant from any other lands. It is therefore remark- able, that there are no trees growing on this part of the American continent, nor upon any of the adjacent ifles. They are doubtlefs as well fituated for receiving feeds, by the various ways we have heard of, as thofe coafls which have plenty of wood. Nature has, perhaps, denied to fome foils the power of raifmg trees, without the afliftance of art. With refpeifl to the drift-wood, upon the fhores of thefe iilands, we have no doubt of it* coming from America. For thou» h there may be none on the neighbouring coall, a lufiicient quantity may grow farther up the country, which may be broken loofe by torrents in the fpring, and brought down to the fea; and not a little may be conveyed from the woody coafls, though fituated at a more conliderablc diflance. Plants are to be found in great variety at Oonalafhka. Several of them are fuch as we meet with in Europe, and h\ 5ft CAPTAIN COOK'. THIRD VOYAGE. and alfo in Newfoundland, and other parts of America ; and others of them, which are likewile found m Kamt-| icliatka, are eaten by natives both there and here. Of thefe, Kraftieninikoff has favoured us with defcriptions. The principal one is the faranney or lily root; which is] about as large as d root of garlick, round, and com-} .pcfcH of a number of fmall cloves and grains. When' boiled, it fomewhat reiembles faloop ; the tafte of it is I not difagreeable. It does not appear to be in great abundan-je. Among the food of the natives we may reckon fome ©tlier wild roots ; the ftalk of a plant not unlike ange- lica ; and benies of different fpecies, fuch as cranberries, hurtle- berries, bramble-berries, and heath^berries ; be- fides a fmall red berry, v/hich, in Newfoundland, is de- nominated partridge berry; and another brown berry, with which we were unacquainted. This has fome- what of the tafte of a floe, but is different from it in every other refpedt. When eaten in a confiderable quantity it is very aftringent. Brandy may be diftilled from it. Captain Gierke endeavoured to preferve fome ; but they fermented, and became as ftrong as if they had been fteeped in fpirits. There were feveral plants which were ferviceable to lis, but are not ufed either by the Ruilians or the natives. Thefe were tea-pots, wild purflain, a fort of fcurvy- grafs, crefTes, and a few others. We found all thefe very palatable, whether dreflfed in foups or in fallads. The vallies and low grounds abounds with grafs, which grows very thick, and to a great length. We are of opinion, that cattle might fubiift at Oonalafhka in every feafon of the year, without being houfed. The foil, in many places, appeared to be capable of producing grain and vegetables. But, at prefent, the Ruffian traders, and the natives, feem contented with the fpon- taneous produdlions of nature. Weobferved native fulphur among the people of this Jfiand ; but we could not learn where they procured it. We ilfo round ochre, and a ftone that aifords a purple colour; CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGl. 5fl colour ; beftdes another that gives a good green. Thia laft, in its natural ftate,is of a ^feyi(h green hue, coari'e, and heavy. It really diflblves m oil ; but when it is put into water, it altogether lofes its properties. As for the ftones about the Ihorc and hilh^ wc perceived in them I nothing that was extraordinary. The OonalaHikans inter their dead on the tops of Ihlils, and raife over the grave a little hillock. One of the natives, who attended Captain Cook in a walk into the country, pointed out feveral of thefe repofitories of the I dead. There was one of them, by the fide of a road, I that had aheap of ftones over it ; and all who pafled it» added a ftone to the heap. In the country w^cre feen ! feveral ftone hillocks, that feemed to have been aniiioial- I ly raifed. Some of them were, to appearance, of great antiquity. We are unacquainted with ttie notions of thefe peo- I pie refpe<-ting the Deity, and a future ftate. We are equally uninformed with regard to their diveriions; paving feen nothing that coiud give us an infjght into I either. They are extremely chearful and friendly amcn^ I each other ; and they always treated us v;ith great civi- lity. The Ruffians faid they never had any connection I with their women, on account of their not being chrii- tians. Our people, however, were lefs fcrupulous ; and fome of them had reafon to repent, that the women of Oonalalhka encouraged their add relfes ; for their health was injured by adittempcr that is not wholly unknown here. The natives are alfo fiibjed: to the cancer, or a. complaint of a fimilar nature, which thofe who are at- tacked by it are ftudious to conceal. They do not ap- pear to be long lived. We did not fee a perfon, man or woman, whom we could fuppofe to be fixty years of age ; and we obferved very riew who feemed to exceed I fifty. ^ • We have occafiortally mentioned, from the time of lour arrival in Prince William's Sound, how remarkably |. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^ .4'4i. 1.0 I.I 11.25 Ui lis ■'9 K £.» I 2.2 I 2.0 IIIIIM i^ mil 1.6 ^ A y. r Photpgmphic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SM (716) 872-4S03 :1? \ iV < ^^ 6^ b ^ 6^ ^p6 CAPtAiN C06iV THIRD VOYAGt. i<3* 'iTaving got out of the harbour, the wind veered tc the S. E. with which we were carried to the weftern part of Oonalafhka^ by the eviening. Here the wind was at S. and we ftretched to the weft ward till the next morning at (even, at which time we wore, and ftood to the E* The wind had now fo greatly increafed, as to reduce us to our three courfes. ^ilt blew in heavy fqualls, accompanied with rain, hail, and fnow. In the mdfning of the l8th, at about nine o'clock, Ck)nala{hka bore S. £. about four leagues diftant. The flrength pf the gale was much abated, and, towards the evening, hifenfibly veered round to the E. and foon after gotio N. E. increafmg to a very hard gde, attend* ed with rain. ' . At half after fix, in the rnorning of the 29th, we difcovered land, which we iiippofed to be the ifland Amoghta* At eight, the wind having veered to the weft ward, weeeuTd not weather the ifland, and gave over plying ; bearing away for Oonalafhka, in order to go to the N. of It, not daring, in fo hard a gale of wind, lb attempt a paflage to the S. E. of it When we bore away, the land was about four leagues diftant. The longitude was 19! d. 17 m, and the latitude C3 d. 38 m. The Ruilian map is very inaccurate in the lituation of this ifland. Steering to the N. E. we difcovered, at eleven o'cloc^k, a rock, elevated like a tower, bearing N. N. E. at the diftance of about four leagues. The latitude was C3 d. 57 m. and the longitude 191 d. 2 m. We got fight of (ionalaftika aboist three in the afternoon, when we Shortened fail, and hauled the wind, being unable to get through the paflage before night. On the 20th at dayr break, having a very hard gale at W. N. W. with heavy fqualls and Inow^ we bore away under courfes, and clofe-^reefed top-fails. About noon we were in the mid- dle of the ftrait, and got through it at three in the after- noon. Cape Providence bearing W. S. W. the wind at W. N. W. blew a ftrong gale, with fair weather. . On the 2d 01 Noveinoer, the wind was at S. and, m reeredl ta weftern he wind the next ftood to ed, as to y i'qualls, o'clock, nt. The vards the nd foon ;, attend- 29th, we he ifland ed to the and gave I order to ; of wind, I we bore nt. The ; d. 38 m. uatiou of n o'cloc'k, E. at the Nas 53 d. ►t fight of \rhen we ble to get h at day- ith heavy rfes, and the mid- the after- s wind at r. c S, and, in CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD YQYAPE. ,597 in the evening, blew a violent ftorm, wfiich occalionie;d us to bring to. Several guns were fired by the Diftro- very, which we immediately anfwered. We loft fight of her 9i eight, and faw her no more till eight the next morning. She jpined us at ten ; when, the height of the gale being over, and the wind having veered to W. N* W . we made fail, and puriued our courl'e to the foutl;- ward. In the morning of^turday the 7th, a fhag, or cor- morant, flew often round the (hip. As it is not com- mon for thefe birds to go far out of the fight of land, we fujfpofed there was fome at no great diftancej though we could not difcover any. Having but little wind in the afternoon, Captain Gierke came on board with fome melancholy intelligence. He informed Us that, the fecond night after we departed from Samga- noodha, the main tack of the Difcovery gave way, by which accident one man was killed, and the boatfwain, with two or three others, wounded. He added, that his fails and rigging received confiderable damajge on the 3d, and that he fired the guns as a fignal to bring to. (3n the 8th, we had a gentle breeze at north, with clear weather. On the pth, we had eight hours c*^lm. To this fucceeded a wind from the fouth, accompanie|l with fair weather. Such of our people as could nandle a needle, were now employed to repair the fails ; an^ the carpenters were dire^ed to put the boats in ordef. At noon, on the 1 2th, the wind returned to the north- ward, and veered to the E. on the 15th. We now faw a tropic bird, and a dolphin ; the firft we had olv ferved in oiir paflage. On the 17th, the wind wa& fouth ward, where it remained till the i pth in the after- noon, when it was mftautly brought round by the W. to the N. by a fcuall of wind and rain» The vvind in- creafed to a very ftrong gale, and brought us under double reefed top^fails. In lowering the main top-fail, in order to reef it, the force of the wind tore it out of the foot-rope, and it was fplit in feveral parts. We got^ however, another top-fail to the yard the next mornuig^ 59» CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE. We fleered to the fouthward till the 25th, at day light, Vhen we were in the latitude of sod. ^^ m. ', Tho next morning, at day-break, land was difcover- ed, extending from S. S. E. to W. We ftood for it, and at eight o'clock, it extended from S. E. to W. the near- eft part about two leagues diftant. We now perceived that our dircover/ of the group of the Sandwich Iflands had been very imperfedt, thole which we had vifited in our progrefs northward, all lying to the leeward of our preient flation. An elevated hill aappearcd in the country, whofe fum- mic rofe above the clouds. The land, from this hill, fell in a gradual flope, terminating in a neep rocky coaft ; the iea breaking againft it m a moil dreadiul furf. Unable to weather the ifland, we bore up, and ranged to the weftward.* We how perceived people on many . pa rts of the fliore, and fcveral houfes and plantations. The country appeared to be well fupplied w'th wood and water, and iireams were feen, in various places, fal-> ling into the fea. It bcinc of the utmoft importance to procure a pro- per fuppiy of provifions at thefe iflands, which could not pombly be accomplifhed, if a free trade with the nar tives were to be permitted ; Captain Cook publifhed an order, prohibiting all peribns on board the fhips from trading, excej)t thofe appointed by himfelf and Captain Gierke ; and thefe were under limitations of trading on- ly for provifions and refrefhments. Injundions were airo laid againfl the admittance of women into the (hips, but under certain reftriftions. But the evil, vvhich was intended to have been prevented by this regulation, had already got amongit them. About noon, the coaft extended from S. E. to N, W. the nearefl ihore three miles diftant, in the latitude of 20 d. 59 m. and the longitude of 203 d. 50 m. Some canoes came off, and, when they got alongfide, many of the condudors of them came into the ihip without tiefitation. We perceived that they were of the fame loattoa-fts thofe iilauders more to the leeward, which had already CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. S9f already been vifited by us ; and, as we underftood, they were no ih'angers to our having been there. It was, indeed, too evident ; thefe people having got the vene- real diieafe among them ; which they probably con- tracted by an intercourfe with their neighbours, after we had left them. Our vifitors fupplied us with a quantity of cuttle- fi(h, in exchange for nails and iron. They brought but lit- tle fruit or roots, but faid they had plenty of them on their ifland, as well as of hogs and fowls. The horizon being clear, in the evening, we fuppofed the weftern- moft land that we could fee, to be an ill and, diftintfi from that off which we now were. Exped:ing the natives would return the next day, with the produce of their ifland, we plyed off the wliole night, and ftood doit m (hore the next morning. At firft we were vifited but by few, \ % towards noon, many of them appeared, bringing with them potatoes, tarro,bread-fruit,plantains, and Imjul pigs, all of which were bartered for iron took and n^ls, we having few other articles to give them* We traded with them till about four in the afternoon, at which time they had difpofed of all their cargoes ; and, not expreding any inchnation to fetch more, we immediately made fail. On the 30th, in the afternoon, being ofFthe N. E, end of the ifland, fome more canoes came off. Thefe prin- cipally belonged to Terreeoboo, a chief who came iii one of them. He made the Commodore a prefent of two or three pigs ; and we procured a little fruit by bar- tering vvith the other people. In about two hours they all left us, except feven or eight who chofe to remain oa board. Soon after a double failing canoe arrived to at- tend upon them, which we towed aft em the whole; night la the evening, another ifland was feen to the windward, called, by the natives, Owhyhee. That, which we had been oflffor fome days, was called Mowee, At eight in the morning, on the ift of December, Owhyhee extended from S. IL to S . W. Perceivi ng that we could fetch Owhyhee, .we flood for it, when our vi- fitor» 6oo CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOTAGB, fitors from Mowee thought proper to embark in their canoes, and went aOiore. We (pent the night, (landing off and on the north fideof Ownyhee. On the 2d of December, in the morning, to our great furprize, we (aw the fummits of the mountains covered witn fnow. Though they were not of an extraordinary heiprht, the fnow, in fome places, appeared to be of a confiderable depth, and to have remamed there fome time. Drawins near the fhore. fome of the natives ap- proached us, who appeared a little (hy at firft, but we prevailed on fome of them to come on hoard ; and, at length, induced them to return to the ifland, to bring 4 iupply of what we wanted. We had plenty of company after thefe had reached the (hore, who brought us a tolerable fupply of pigs, fruit, and roots. We traded with them till about fix in the evening, when we ftood off, in order to ply to windward round the ifland. An eclipfe or the moon was obferved in the evening of the 4th. Mr King ufed, for the purpofe of obferva-^ tion, a night-telefcope, with a circular aperture at the objed end. The Commodore obferved with the tele- icope ofonc of Ramfden's fextants. In the evening of the 6th, being near the (hore, and five leagues farther up the coaft, we again traded with the natives ; but, receiving only a trifling fupply, we flood in the next morning, when the, number of our viiitors was confiderable, with whom we trafficked till two in the afternoon. We had now procured pork, fruit, and roots, fuificient to fupply us for four or five days. We therefore made fail, and dill plyed to windward. Captain Cook having procured a great quantity of fugar cane, and having, upon a trial, dif- covered that a decodtion of it made very palatable beer, he ordered fome of it to be brewed for our general ufe \ but, on the broachingof the cafks, not one of the crew would even tafte it The Com modore, having, no other xfiOtive in preparingthis beverage, than that of preforving our fpirits for a coider climate, neither exerted his au- Ihority^ nor had recourfe to perfuafiooj to induce them their iding great vered iinary le of a fome es ap- ut we ind, at ring a napany kt us a traded eilood I. svening ►bferva- e at the he tele- jre, and ed with ply, we r 01 our Icked till |d pork, Ifour or ilyed to a great ial, dif- )le beer, jralufej the crew [no other :eferving . his au- ice them CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 6o€ to drink it ; well knowing that, (o long as we could be plentitullv fuppUed with other vegetables, there was no danger of the Icurvy. But, that he might not be difap- pointed in his views, he ordered that no grog (hould oe ferved in cither of the (hips. The Commodore, and his officers, continued to drink this fugar-cane beer, when- ever materials could be procured for brewing it. Some hops, which we had On board, improved it much ; and, it was, doubtlefs, extremely wholefome ; though the Captain's inconfiderate crew, could not be perfuaded but that It was injurious to their health. Innovations, of whatever kind, on board a (hip, are fure to meet with the difapprobation of the feamen, though ever fo much to their advantage. Portable foup, and lour krout, were condemned, at firft, as improper food for human beings. Few commanders have intro- duced more ufeful varieties of food and drink into their (hips, than Captain Cook has done. Few others, indeed, have had the Opportunities, or have been driven to the neceffity of trying fuch experiments. It was, neverthe- lefs, owing to certain deviations from eftabliflied prac- tice, that he was enaWed, in a great degree, to preferve his people from the fcurvy, a diftemper that has often made more havock in peaceful voyages, than the enemy in military expeditions. Having kept at fome diftance from the coaft, till the X3th, we ftood in again, fix leagues more to windward ; and, after trading with the natives who came off to us, returned to fea. We alfo intended to have approached the fhore again on the 1 5th, to get a frefli fupply of fruit and roots ; but the wind happening to be then at S. E. we embraced the opportunity of ftretching to the eaft- ward, in order to get round the S. E. end of the ifland. The wind continued at S. E. the greateft pait of the. 16th ; ou the 17th, it Was variable; and on the iSth, it was continually veering. Sometimes it blew in hard fqualls ; and, at other times, it was calm, with thunder, lightning, and rain. The wind was wefteriy for a few hours in the afternoon ; but it fhifted, in the evening, to d02 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. to E. by S. The S. E. point of the ifland now bore S. W. by S. dldant about five leagues, and we expeded that we (hould l)e able to weatlier it ; but it became calm at one the next morning, and we were left wholly at the mercy of a north-eafterly fwcll, which greatly impelled us towards the land ; infomuch, that, before morning:, lights were feen upon the (hore, which was then at the dii^ance of about a league. It was a dark night, with thunder, lightning, and rain. A breeze from the S. £. fucceeded the calm at about three, blowing in fqualls, with rain. At day-break, the coafl extended from N. by W. to S. W. by W. about half a league didant ; a mofl dreadful furf breaking upon the Ihore. We had certainly been iu the moft immi- nent danger ; from which we were not yet fecure, the wind veering more eafterly ; fo that, for a confiderabl^ time, we were but juft able to keep our diflance from th« coaft. Our fituation was rendered the more alarming, by the leach-rope of the main-top- fail giving way, in confequence of which the fail rent in two ; the top-|ral. iant-faifs giving way in the fame manner. We foon, Tiowever, got others to the yards, and left the land aftern. The Difcovery was at fome diftance to the N. entirely clear from the land ; nor did (he appear in fight till dght o'clock. Iris an obvious remark, thatlhe bolt-ropes to our fails are extremely deficient in (Irength or fubftance. This has frequently been the fource of infinite labour and vexation ; and occafioned the lofs of much canvas by their giving way. It was, upon this occafion, obferyed by Captain Cook, that the cordage, canvas, and other ftores, made ufe of in the navy, are inferior, in general^ to thofe uled in the merchant fervice. The Commodore alfo obferved, that an opinion pre- Tailed among all naval officers, that the kmg's ftores were fupcrior to any others ; no (hips being fo well fitted out as thofe of the navy. They may be right, he admits, as to the quantity ; but, he apprehends, n6t with refped to the quality of tlie ftores. This, indeed, CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 003 is not often tried ; for thefe things are ufually condemn- ed, or converted to oiher ufes, before they are half worn our. Only fuch voyages as ours afford an oppor- tunity of making the trial ; our fituation being fuch, as to render it neceflary to wear every thing to the ex- treme. • When day-light appeared, the natives afhore exhibit- ed a white nag, as a iignal, we imagined, of peace and friendlhip. Many of them ventured out after us ; but, as the wind frefiiened, and we were unwilling to wait, they were prefently left aftern. In the afternoon, we made another attempt to weather the eaftern extreme, in which we failed ; when the Commodore gave it up, and ran down to the; Difcovery. Our getting round the ifland was, indeed, a matter of no importance ; for we had feen the extent of it to the S. £. which was all the Commodore aimed at ; the na- tives having informed us, that there was no other ifland to the windward of this, But, as we were fo near ac- compHfhing our defign, we did not entirely abandon the idea of weathering it, and continued to ply. At noon, on the 20th, the S. E. point oore S. at the diftance of three leagues. The fnowy hills bore W. N. \V. and we wefe within four miles ot the neareil fhore. We were yifited, in the afternoon, by fome of the na- tives, who came off in their canoes, brmging with them pigs, and plantains. The latter were highly acceptable, we having been without vegetables for fome days ; but this was lo inconfiderable a fupply, (hardly fufficient for one day) that we flood in the next morning, till within about four miles of the land, when a number of canoes came off, laden with provifions. The people in them continued trading with us till four o'clock m the after- noon ; at which time we had got a good fupply ; we therefore made fail, ftretchingoff to the northward. We met with lefs refcrve and fufpicion, in our inter- courfe with the people of this ifland, than we had ever experienced among any tribe of favages. They fre- quently fent up into the fliip, the articles they meant to Vol. 11.— N» 41. 4 G barter, ^4 CAPTAIN C60K». THIRD VOYAGE. barter, and afterwards came in themfelves, to traffic on the quarter deck. The inhabitants of Otaheite, whom we have To often vifited, have not that confidence in our intCRrify. Whence it may be inferred, that thofe of Owhyhee are more faithful in their dealings with each other, than the Oiaheiteans. It is but juftice to obferve, that they never attempted to over-reach us in exchanges, nor to commit a fmgle theft. They perfedly undcrftand trading, and clearly comprehended the reafon of our plying upon the coaft; For, though they brought off plenty of pigs, and other provifions, they were particular in keeping up their price ; and, rather than difpofe of them at an under- value, would carry them to ihore again. At eight in the morning of the 2 2d, we tacked to the fouthward. At noon, the fnowy peak bore S. W. We flood to the S. E. till midnight, when we tacked to the N. till four. We had hopes of weathering the ifland, and (hould have fucceedeo, if a calm had not enfued, and left us to the mercy of a fwell, which impelled us to- wards the land, from which we were not above the diftance of two leagues. Some light puffs of wind, h 7er, took us out of danger. Whilfl we lay in this fituikiion, fome iflanders came off with hogs, fowls, and fruit. From one of the canoes we got a goofe, which was not larger than a Mufcovy duck. The colour of its plumage was dark grey, and the bill and legs were tdack. After purchafing what the natives had brought off, we made fail, and (Wretched to the N. At midnight, we tacked and flood to the S. E. Imagining the Diicovery would fee us tack, we omitted the fignal ; but it after- wards appeared that fhe did not fee us, and continued (landing to the N. for, the next morning, at day-light, ihe was not to be feen. But, as the weather was now hazy, we could not fee far ; it was therefore pdTible that the Difcovery might be following us. At noon, we were in the latitude of 19 d. 55 m. and in the longitude of 205 d. 3 TO* and we were two leagues from the neareft CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE. 6ft^ neareft part of the iiland. In the e /ening, at fiK, the fouthernmoft part of the ifland bore S. W. the neareO: fliore about (even miles diftanr. We had, therefore, now fucceeded in our endeavours, in getting to the wind* ward of the ifland. The Difcovcry was not yet withiYi fight, but as the wind was favourable for her to follow us, we expected flie would fhortly join us. We kept cruifing of this point of the ifland, till Captain Gierke was no longer ex- pected here. It was, at length, conjedured, that ne wa9 gone to leeward, in order to meet us that way, not hav- ing been able to weather the N. £. part of the ifland. . Keeping generally from five to ten leagues from the land, only one canoe came off to us till the 28th, at which time we were attended by about a dozen, bring- ing, as ufual, the produce of the ifland. We were con- cerned that the people had been at die trouble of com- ing, as we could not poflibly trade with them, not having yet confumed our former (lock; and experience had convinced us, that the hogs could not be kept alive, nor the roots be many days preferyed from putrefaction. We meant, however, not to leave this part of the ifland till we had got a fupply, as vte could not eafily return to it, if it (hould hereafter be found neceflTary. On the 30th, we began to be in want, but a calm prevented us from approaching the fliore. A breeze, however, fprung up at midnight, which enabled us to fland in for the land at day-break. At ten o'clock the iflanders vifited usi, bringing with them a quantity of fruit and roots, but only three fmall pigs. This fcanty fupply was, perhaps, occafioned by our not having purchal'ed thofe -which had lately been brought off. For the purpofes of traffic we brought to, but we were (hortly interrupted with an exceflljve rain ; and, indeed, we were too far from the Ihore j nor could we venture to go nearer, as we could not, for a moment, depend upon the wind's continuiiig where it was. The Iwell, top, was extremely high, and fet obliquely upon the 4 G 2 ihore, 6bj CAPTAIN COOK'« THIRD VOYAGE. (hore, where it broke in a moft frightful furf. We had fine weather in the evening, and pafled the night in making boards. Before day-break, on the ift of Janu- ary, 1 779, the atmofphere was laden with heavy clouds; and the new year was uQiercd in with a heavy rain. We had a light breeze Toutherly, with fome calms. At ten, the rain ceafed, the iky became clear, «^nd the wind fre(hened. Being now about four or five miles from the fliore, fome canoes arrived with hogs, fruit, and roots. We traded with the people in the canoes, till three in the af- ternoon ; when, being pretty well fupplied, we made fail, in order to proceed to the lee fide of the ifland, in fearch of the Discovery. We ftretched to the eaftward, till midnight, when the wind favoured us, and we went upon the other tack. The 2d, 3d, and i|.th, were pafTed in running down the S. £. fide of the ifland, (landing oflfand on during the nights, and employing part of each day in lying to, to give the natives an opportunity of trading with us. They frequently came off to us, at the diftance of five leagues from the ftiore, but never brought niuch with 4hem, at thofe times, either from a fear of lofing their articles in the fea, or from the uncertainty of a market. We procured a quantity of fait, of a moft excellent quality. In the morning of the ^th, we palTcd the fouth point of the ifland, in the latitude of 18 d, 54 m. beyond which the coaft trends N. 60 d. W. A large village is fituated on this point, many of whcfe inhabitants throng- ed off to the fliip with hogs and women. The latter could not poffibly be prevented from coming on board; and they were lefs referved than any women we had ever feen. They leemed, indeed, to have vifitcd us with no other view than to tender us their perfons. Having now got a quantity of fait, we purchafed only fuch hogs as were large enough for faking; refufing all thofe that were under fize. But we could feldom pro- cure any that exceeded the weighi-of fixty pounds. , Hap- pily CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 607 p'lly for U8y we had (llll fome vegetables remaining, as we were now funplied with but few of thofe produc- tionfl. Kndee J, from the appearance of this part of the country, it fcLmed incapable of affording them. Evi- dent marks preOnted ihemfelves of its having been laid waftc by the explofion of a volcano ; and though we had not then fecn any thing of the kind, the devaftation it had made in the neighbourhood was but too vifible. Though the coall is fht'Itered from the reigning winds, it had no anchorage ; a line of an hundred and fixty fathomvS not reaching the bottofp, within half a mile of the (bore. The natives having now left us, we ran a few miles down the coaft in the evening, and paf- fed the night in ftanding off and on. We were again vifited by the natives the next morn- ing. They came laden with the fame articles of com- merce as before. Being not far from tl e fliore. Captain Coo'.: fent Mr Bligh, in a boat, in order to found the coaft, and alfo to go aQiore in fearch of frefti water. He reported, on his return, that, within two cables lengths of the (liore, he found no foundings with a line of one hundred and fixty fathoms ; that, on the land, he could difcover no ftream or fpring ; that there was fome raiu. water in holes, upon the rocks, which the fpray of the fea had rendered brackilh ; that the whole furface of the country was compofed of (lags and aihes, interfperfed with a few plants. To our great fatisfaftion, the Difcovery made her ap- pearance between ten and eleven, coming round the S. point of the iOand, and flie joined us about one. Cap- tain Gierke then came on board the Refolution, and ac- quainted us, that, having cruifed four or five days where we were feparated, he plied round the E. fide of the ifland ; where, meeting with unfavourable winds, he had been driven to fome diftance from the coaft. One of the iflanders continued ori board the whole time, at his own rcqueft, having refufed to leave the ftiip, though opportunities had prefented themfelves. The night was fpent in ftanding off and on. In the morning, wc £o$ WPTAIN GOOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. we ilood in again, and were vifitcd by many of the na* lives. At noop, the latitude was 1 9 d. i m. and the longitude 203 d. 26 m. the nearell part of the iOand p^o leagues diftant. On the 8th, at day- break, we per^ ceived, tiiat whilft we were plying in the night, the cur^ rents had carried us back contidcrably to windward ; and that we were now offthe S. W. point of the ifland, where we brought to, m order to enable the inhabitant* to trade with us. The night was fpent in Handing off and on. Four inen and ten women, who came on board the preced- ing day, v^ere with us ftill. The Commodore not liking |he company of the latter, we flood in (hore,or* the gth, about noon, folely with a view of getting rid of our gueds ; when!, fome. canoes coming off, we embraced Slat opportunity of fending them away. On the 1 0th, in the morning, we had light airs from N. W. and calms j at eleven, the wind freihened at N. N. W. which fo greatly retarded us, that, in the even^ ing, at eighty the §. Tnowy hill bore N. i f d. E. At four o'clock in the morning of the i ith, the wind being at W. we approached the land, in expedation of getting fome refrefhments. The natives, feeing us fo near them, began to come off, and we continued trading with them the whole day ; though we procured but a very fcanty fupply, many of thofe who came off in their canoes, not having a fingle thing to barter. From thia circumftance it appeared, that this part of the ifland was extremely poor, and had already furnished us with every thing they could fpare. The 1 2th was employed in plying off and on, with a irefh gale at W. A mile from the (hore we found ground, at the depth of fifty-five fathoms. At five, we flood to the fouthward, and at midnight we had a calm. The next morning, at eight, we had a finall breeze at S. S. E. and fleered for the land. A few canoes came off to us with fome hogs; hut they brought no vegetables, which were now much wanted, in the evening, we had got the length of the na- CAPTAfN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. ^ S. W. point of the ifland, butj by the veering of tfic * windy we loft in the night all that we had gained in the day. Being in the fame fituation the next mornings fome more canoes attended us; but they browgnt nothing which we flood in need of. We were now dedittite of roots and fruit, and therefore obliged to faa^e recDurfe to our fea provifions. Some canoes, howcvet, arrived from the northward, which fupplied us with fome hogs and roots. On the 15th, we had variable light airs till five in the afternoon, when a breeze at E. N. K. iprung up, and enabled us to fteer along (bore to the northward. The weather Was this day remarkably fine, and we had plenty of company ; many of whom continued with us on board all night, and rheir canoes were towed aft^riK, On the 1 6th, at -day-break, feeing the appearance ofat bay, the Commodore fent Mr Bligh, with a boat from each fhip, to furvey ir, being now about three leagues ol£ Canoes arrived from all quarters ; infomuch that, by- ten o'clock in the morning, there were at leaft a thoufaod about the two ftiips, crowded with people, and ladea with hogs and other provifions. We were pcrfe^lf convinced of their having no hoftile intentions; not a fmgle perfon having a weajx>n with him of any fort; Trade and curiofity were their only inducements to vifit us. Such numbers as we had frequently on board, it might be expeded that fome of them (hould betAiy a thievifli difpofition. One of them took a boat's rudder from the (hip, and was not deteded till it was too late to recover it. Captain Cook imagined this to be a proper opportunity to {hew thefe iflundersthe ufe of fire-arms; two or three mufquets, and as many four pounders, were, by his orders, fired over the canoe which went away with the rudder. But, as the Hiot was not in- tended to take efFe£l, the lurrounding multitude were more furprized than frightened. Mr Bligh, when he returned in the evening, reported, that he had found a bay with good anchorage, and frefli water, in a defirable fituation. Incothis bay, the Commo< dore .iTs. 4ift CAPTAIN COOrs THIRD VOYAGE. dote determined to take his fhips, in order to refit, and fupply ourfelves with refrefhments. At the approach of nighty the mojft coaHderable part of our vintors re« tired to the Chore ; but many, at their own earned re- queft, were permitted to fleep on board. Curiolity, at leaft with fome of them, was not the only motive ; for ieveral articles were milling the next morning ; in con- fequence of which, the Commodore came to a refolu- idon not to admit fo many on any future night. ' On the I yth, at eleven in the forenoon, we anchored in the bay, called by the natives Karakakooa^ within a quarter of a mile of the N. E. (hore. The fouth point of the bay bearing S. by W. and the N. point W. \ N. After we were moored, the Oitps contitiued much crowded with the natives, and furrounded by a vaft multitude of canoes. Iq the courfe of our voyages, we had no where feen fuch ▼aft numbers of people aiTembled at one place. Befides Uiofe who viiited us m canoes, all the (hore was covered urith fpe^ators, and hundreds were fwimmin^ about the fliips^like flioals of fifh. We were ftruck with the fm- riuanty of this fcene ; and few of us lamented that we Had not fucceeded iq our late endeavours, to find a nor- thern pailage homeward. To this difappointment, we were indebted for revifiting the Sandwich Iflands, and Ibr enriching our voyage with a difcovery, in man^ re- ipe^, the mod important that has been made by Euro- peans in the Padfic Ocean. Kara* 3E. refitvand e approach vintors re- earned re- iuriofity, at aotive; for g J in con- [> a refotu- : anchored » within a :h point of \ N. After wdedwith of canoes. J feen fuch . Befides as covered about the h the fin- i that we Ind a nor- ment, we ands, and many re- by Euro- '&k 1 *■" Kara-' N « i ffl B H ^ ^ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOTAGE. p .«■* Karakakooa Bay defcribed — Multitudes of the Natives /ur» round the Ships-^Defpotlc Authority of the Chiefs over the inferior People — A Vijit received from Koah-^Defcription of the Morai at Kakooa — Offering made to Captain Cook at the Morai — Mr King ere6ls obfervatories — The Spot, on which they arefttuated^ tabooed — Method of curing Meat in Tropical Climates — Society of Priefis accidentally dif- covered^^Their Munificence — Ceremony at the Reception of Captain Cook—^Mean Artifice of Koah-^Arrival of Terreeoboo — The Bay tabooed upon that Occafton — Bring the Inhabitants to Obedience^ by firing a Mufquet — Re^ nmrkable Ceremony'-^Vifit front Terreeoboo'^Captain Cook returns it, . THE Bay of Karakgkooa is fituated in the diflri^t of Akona, on the W. fuie of th^ ifland of Or^rhy- Kee. It extends about a mile in djppth, ^nd is bounded by two points of land, bearing S. E. arid N. W. fro in each other, at the diftance ot half a league. Thie IJJ, point is fiat and barren, on which is fituated the village of Kowrowa. A more confiderab)e village, called KuKOOa, ftands in the bottom of the bay, near a grove (il ftately cocoa trees. A high rocky cliff, inacccffible from the fea (hore, nxns between them. Near the coaft, ^on the S. fide, the Und has a rugged appearance ; bje- yond' which the country gradually rifes, and abounds with cultivated inclofures, and groves of cocoa trees. The habitations of the people arelcattered about in great plenty. Round the bay the (hore is covered with a black coral rock, ex^pt at Kakaoo, Vrhere there is an Vol. 11. N». 4 1. 4H ^xcelient ! ;x- 6tz CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. excelletit Tandy beach, with a Morai at one extremity, and a fpring of frefh water at the other. We moored at the N. (ide of this bay, and within a quarter of a mile from the (hore. The inhabitants, perceiving our intention to anchor In the bay, came ofiin aftoniming numbers, expreiling thdr Joy by fmging, Ihcuting, and the mod extravagant geftures* The decks, fides, and riggings of our liiips were covered with them. Women and boys, who were unable to procure canoes, came fwimming round us in great multitudes ; fome of whom, not finding room to get on board, amrfed themfelves the whole day by play- ing in the water. One of the chiefs, who vifited the Refolution, was named Pareea. Though a young man, we foon 4iC- covered him to be a perfon of great authority. . He told Giptan Cook that he was Jakanee * to the Sovereign of the ifland, who was then on a military expedition at Mowee ; whence he was expected to return in a few days. Some prefents from the Commodore attached him to our interefts, and we found him exceedingly ufeful to us. Before we had been long at anchor, the Discovery had fo many people hanging on one fide, that ihe was obferved to heel confiderably ; and our people found it impoilible to prevent the crowds from prefling into her. Captain Cook, apprehenfive that (he might receive fome injury, cdmmunicated his fears to Pareea, who inftantjy cleared the (hip of its incum- brances, and diiperfed the canoes that furrounded her. From this circumdance, it appears that the chiefs have a mofl defpotic authority over the inferior people. An inftance, fimilar to this, happened on board the Refolution ; where the crowd fo far impeded the ordi- nary bufinefs of the (hip, that we found it neceflary to apply to Kaneena, another chiefs who had aUb attached I himfelf himi veni( ordei whei hmd, willir ofhis him ii Th and h whoft a figu his fe * We could not learn with certainty whether this wai a naaif { •f office, or eacprefliTC of fome degree oi affinity. CAPTAIN COOK»f THIRD VOTAQl, tfi3 himfelf particularly to Captain Ck)ok. The incon- venience ^e fuflered was no fooner mentioned, than he ordered the natives immediately to quit the veQel; when, without a moment's hefitation, we faw them all jump over-board ; except one perfon, who loitered be- nind, and, by his manner, exprefled ibme degree of un- willingnefs to obey. Kaneena obferving this contempt of his authority, took hold of him immediately, and threw him into the fea. Thefe two chiefs were exceedingly well proportioned, and had countenances remarkably pleafing. Kaneena, whofe portrait was drawn by Mr Webber, was as fine a figure as can be feen. His height was about fix feet, his features were regular and expreilive, his deport- ment was eafy, firm, and graceful, and he had dark lively eyes. Mention has already been made, that, white we were cruifing off this ifland, the inhabitants had a^ed fairly l^nd honeftly, without manifefting the lead propenfity Co theft ; which was the more remarkable, becauie thoie with whom we had hitherto had any dealings, were peo- ^e of the loweil rank, fuch as fimermen or fervants* The cafe was now exceedingly altered. The multitude of iflanders, who blocked up every part of the ihips^ af- forded opportunities of pilfering without danger cf dii^ covery, and even if detedied, muft have efqaped with impunity from our inferiority in number* To the en- couragement of their chiefs, this alteration might alfo be attributed ; for, as we frequently traced the booty into the pofieifion of fome great men, there is little doubt but thefe depredations were made at their inftigation. Tne Refohition having got into her Ration, the two chiefs, Pareea and Kaneena, brought a third on board, whofe name was Koah. He was reprefented to us as a prieft, and one who, in his early days, had diilingiii(h-« ed himfelf as a warrior. He was a little old emaciated figure, having fore red eyes, and his body covered with aleprousfcurf, Qceafioned by the immoderate ufe of the 4 H « «VA, 1es. ^e endea- le inhabi- hem were to be very make him sad, which were foon the fhips ed only bv on board, cturned to rge canoe, d from the Their ap- eoboo, and 1 feathered \d daggers. , together ved on red i-mous fize, ented with fmall CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. ^23 fmall feathers of a variety of colours. Their eyes were large pearl oyfters, with a black nut placed in the centre ; a double row of the fangs of dogs was fixed in each or their mouths, which, as well as the reft of their features, appeared ftrangely diftorted. The third canoe was laden with hogs and vegetables. As they advanced, the priefts, in the fecond canoe, chanted their hymns with great folemnity. After paddling round the vcffels, they did not come on board, as we expeded, but made im- mediately towards the fhore, at the beach where we were ftationed. When Mr King beheld them approaching, he ordered our little guard to receive the king ; and Captain Cook, feting that he intended to go on (hore, went thither alfo, and landed almoft at the lame inftant. We uQiered them into the tent, and the king had hardly been feated, when he rofeup, and gracefully threw over the Captain's fhouliers, the rich feathered cloak that he himfelf wore, placed a helmet on his head, and prefented him with a curious fan. Five or fix curious cloaks, of great beauty and value, were fpread at the Commodore'i feet. Four hogs were then brought forward by tlie king's attendants, together with bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and fugar-canes. Then followed the ceremony of Terreeo- boo's changing names with Captain Cook; the ftrongeft pledge of friendfliip among all the iflanders of the Pacific Ocean. A folemn proceflion now advanced, confifting of priefts, preceded by a venerable old per- fonage, followed by a train of people leading large hogs ; others being laden with potatoes, plantains, &c. We could inftantly perceive, by the countenance and geftures of Kaireekeea, that the oM man who headed the proceflion, was the chief prieft, on whofe bounty we were told we had fo long fubfifted. He wrapped a piece of red cloth round the flioulders of Cupt. Cook, and, in the ufual form, prefented him with a pig. He was then feated next the king, and Kaireekeea, and his attendants 6t4 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOTAGB. attendants began their vocal ceremonies, Kaoo and the chiefs afliding in the reponfes. In the perfon of this king, we were furprized to recog- nize the lame emaciated old man, who came on board tlie Refolution, from the N. £. fide of the ifland of Mowee ; and we perceived, that feveral of his attendants were the fame perfons who, at that time, continued with us the whole night. Among thefe were the king's two Xoungeft fons, the elded about the age of fixteen ; and laiha-Maiha, his nephew, whom we could not im- mediately rccolledl, having had his hair plaftered over with a dirty pafte and powder, which was no bad im- provement to the moil favage countenance we had cverfeen. The formalities of the meeting being ended, Giptain Cook conduded Terreeoboo, a'nd feveral of his chiefs, on board the Refolution. They were received with every poffible attention and refped; and, the Com- modore, as a compenfation for the feathered cloak, put a linen fhirt upon the fovereign, and girt his own han- ger round him. Kaoo, and about half a dozen other ancient chiefs, remained on fhore. All this time, not a canoe was permitted to appear in the ^y, and thofe natives who did not confine them- felves to their huts, lay proftrate on the ground- Before the king quitted the Refolution, he granted leave for the nauves to trade with the (hips, as ufual ; but the women (we know not on what account) were ftill inter- dided by the taboo ; that is, to remain ^t homei and not have any kind of intercourfe with us, ne the CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE. ^15. :og- 3ard d of lants with itwo and im- . over d im- i, had The Civility and Hofpitality of the Natives-^Mucb addi^ed to tbieving^-'Their Alacrity in conducing a Party ofust^ the Country — A Boxing-Match defcribed — Death of Wil* Ham Watman^ a Seaman — Attention of the Priejis at hit Funeral — Ceremony of the Natives at his Funeral-^A Crave-Stone ereBed — The Rail and Images on theMorai furchafed — The Natives very inquijttive about our Depart ■ ture — What they fuppofed to be the object of our Voyage^^ Entertained by the Buffoonery of one of the Natives-^-Mag^ nijicent Prefents from Terreeoboo — The Natives regret mtr Departure — Wijh to prevail on Mr King to remain amongfl - them — The Veffels quit the JJland — The Refolution damaged in a Gale of Wind^ and obliged to return. THE behaviour of the inhabitants was fo civil and inofFenfive, that all apprehenlions of danger were totally vanilhed. We trufted ourfelves amongft them at all times, and upon all occaiions, without the leaft hefitation. The officers ventured frequently up the country, either iingly, or in fmall parties, and lometimes continued out the whole night. To relate all the in- ftances of generolity and civility, which we experienced upon thele occafions, would require volumes. In all places, the people flocked about us, anxious to afibrd every affillance in their power, and appeared hi^hl^ gratified if we condefcenaed to accept 01 their fervices. Variety of innocent arts were pradifed to attract our notice, or to delay our departure. The boys and girls ran through thdr villages before us, (topping us at every lopeoiagi where there was a commodio;^ place to form 626 CAPTAIN coot's THIRD VOYAGE. a group for dancing. We were, at one time, folicited to take a draught of the milk of cocoa nuts, or accept of fuch other refrefliment as their huts afforded; at another we were encircled by a company of young women, who exerted their fkill and agility in amufing us with fongs and dances. But though their gentlenefs and hofpitality were pleafing to us, they were addidied to ftealing, like all the other iflanders of thefe feas. This was a diftrefling circumftance, and fometimes obliged us to exercife feverity, which we (hould have been happy to have avoided, if it had not been effentially neceflary. Some expert fwimmers were one day deted^ed under the (hips, drawing out the filling nails from the fheathing, which they ingenioufly performed with a flint (lone, fattened to the end of a (hort flick. This pra^ice was fo in- jurious to our veflels, that we fired fmall fhot at the of- fenders ; but that they eafily evaded, by diving under the fhip's bottom. It therefore became highly neceffary to make an example of one of ihem, by flogging him on board tlie Difcovery. A large party of gentlemen, from both fhips, fet out, about tliis time, on an excurfion into the country, in order to examine its natural productions ; an account of Dvhich will be hereafter given. At prefent, however, we fhall obferve, that it afforded Kaoo a frefh oppor- tunity of exercifing his civility and generofity. No fooner was he informed of their departure, than he fent after them a large quantity of provifions, v/ith, orders, that every afliftance fhould be granted them by the inhabitants of thofe diftrids through which they were to pafs. His condudl, on this occafion, was fo delicate ana difmtererted, that even the people he employed were not permitted to accept of the fmallefl prefent. At the end of fix days, the gentlemen returned, without having penetrated more than twenty miles into the ifland j owing partly to improper guides, and partly to the impradicability of the country. On the 2yihy the Refoluiiou s rudder was unhungt and and pair, thee ple,t com< Ca by ill at hig with Capta fent c tables a wee quite Not nativei cvenin were ii hibited what < thourf Avd ofgroi fpace V which ofiloti flandai fmall The! fignal,[ advanc hind, came head t^ the fp( a varii adranc arms always Vol. CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 6^J and fent on (hore, in order to undergo a thorough re- pair. The carpenters, at the fame time, were fent into the country, under the guidance of fome of Kaoo's peo- ple, to get planks for the head rail work, which was be- come rotten and decayed. Captain Gierke, who was generally confined on board by ill health, paid Terreeoboo his firft vifit on the 28th, at his habitation on fhore. The ceremonies obferved with Captain Cook, were performed in honour of Captain Gierke ; and, on his return, he received a pre- fent of thirty large hogs, and fuch a quantity of vege- tables as could not be confumed, by his crew, in lefs than a week. This was the more extraordinary, as it was quite an unexpected vifit. Not having fcen any of their fports or exercifes, the nadves, at our particular requeft, entertained us in the evening with a boxing match. Though thefe games were inferior, in every refpedl, to thofc we had feen ex- hibited at the Friendly Iflands ; yet, as they were fome- what different, a fhort account of them may not be thought improper. A vail concourfe of people afTembled on an even fpot of ground, not far diftant from our tents. A long vacant fpace was left in the centre of them, at the upper end of which the judges prefided, under three ftandards. Slips of eloth, of various colours, were pendant from theie ftandards ; as were the ikins of two wild geefe, fome fmall birds, and a few bunches of feathers. The fports being ready to begin, the judges gave the fignal, and two combatants appeared in view. They advanced flowly, drawing up their feet very high be- hind, and rubbing their hands upon the foles. As they came forward, they frequently furveyed each other from head to foot, with an air pf contempt, looking archly at the fpe£kators,' diftortins their features, and pradifing a variety of unnatural geftures. When they were adrancea within the reach of each other, they held both arms ilraight out before their faces, at which part they always aimed, their blows. They (truck with a full Vol. 11.— N** 4z. 4K fwing ^21 CAPTAIN COOK'e THIRD VOYAQl?; fwitig of the arm, which to us hac] a very awkward appearance. Th^y did not attempt to parry ; but en- deavoured to elude their adverfary 8 attack, by (locping, or retreating. ^ The batde was expedkioufly decided; for if either of them fell, whetlicr by accident, or from a blow, he was deemed vanquilhed ; and the viftor ex-. pxefled his triumph by a variety of ftrange gefture», whicli ufually excited a loud laugh among the fpcc- tators, for which purpofe it feemed to be calculated. The fuccefsful combatant waited for a fecond antagoniil ; and, if again vi<^oriou8, for a third » and fo oo, till he was at laii defeated. It was very, fingular, in thefe combata, that, when any two are preparing to attack each other, a third njiay ad- vance, and mat« choice of either of them for his aofa- gonii^ when the other is under the neceilky of with- drawing. If the combat proved Long and tedious,, or appeared unequal, a chief generally interfered^ and con- cluded it by putdf^ a i^kk between the combatants. As this exhibition was at our de^re, it was uciiverfally ex.* pedled that fome of us would have engaged with the natives^ but though Our people received pjceiiing invita- tions to bear a part^they did not hearl^n to tihe challeiw ges, not having foi'got the blows thl3y received at the Friendly Iflands. WilUam Watman, a feaman of the gjannerV crew» died this day : this, event i^ the mose partianiilaFliy men- tioned, as death had hid^erto been uncommon amonefl VL8* He was a man in years, and much* refpe^ed ror his attachment to Captain Cook. He had ferved twen- ty-one years as a marine, and then entered a$ ai Cea^an in 1 772, on board the Refolution, and ferved with the Commodore in his voyage towai^s the fouBh! pole, Ga th^ir return,, be got admitl^nce into, Greenwich HofpU tal, through the intereft QfCaptwtn Cooki at the &i9« time with himself; and, anxious to follow the fortune% of his bene&i^or, he alfo quitted it with< hiim, on his^^i^. pointment to the command of thej^efent expedition* He hadboenoltQii ft^jeift to|lighti^¥€i^» mim eourfe of CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOTAGl. €i9 of the voyage^ and was infirm when he arrived in the bay ; where^ having been fent for a fe^ days on fhore, he thought himfelf nerfeiStly rcilored, and requefted 10 return on boards His requeft was complied with ; but the day following he had a ftrokc of the paify, which in two days afterwards, put a period to his life. At the requeit of Terreeoboo, the remains of this hoi- nofl feaman were buried In the morai ; the ceremony being performed with great folemhity. Kaoo and his brethren were prefent at the funeral, who behaved with great decorum, and paid due attention while the fervice was performing. On our beginning to fill up the grave, they approached it with great awe, and threw in a dead pig» together with fome cocoa-nuts and plantains; For three uicceflive nights they furrounded it, facrificing hogs« and recidng hymns and prayers till morning. We eredted a pofl at the heaa of the grave, and nail- ed thereon a piece of board ; on which was infcribed the same and age of the deceafed, and the day of bis depar- ture from this life. Thefe they affured us they would not remove, and they will probably be permitted to re- main, fo long as fuch frail materials can endure. Our fhips were much in want of fuel, therefore Gap- tain Cook defircd Mr King to treat with the priefls^ for thepurchafe of the rail on the morai. MrlCing htA his doubts about the decency cif this overture, and appre* hended that the bare mention of it might be deemed im^ pious ; but in this he v^as exceedingly miilaken. Tbt^ exprefi*ed no kind of furprize at the application, and the wd was delivered without the fearfl ilipulation^ Whiifl our people were taking it away, he faw one of them with a carved imaee ; and, upon inquiry, was in^ formed, that the whole femicirole (as menrioiied in the deicrq>tion of dit morai) had been carried to the boats. Though the native were fpe^lators of this buiinef^ ^ey did not feem to refent it ; bnt, on the contrary, had even a^fted in the removal. Mr King thought pro^ |>er to mention the particulars to Kaoo ; whofeemed ^co8ding[y indiffereoit about the matter, b^^pg him 4 1[ 2 only ^K 6^ CAPTAIN C00K*8 THIRD VOYAGE. only to reftore the center image ; which was immedi- .ately done, and it was conveyed to one of the prieft*8 boufes. The king, and his chiefs, had, for fome time, been very importunate to know the time of our departure. Mr King's curiofity was excited, from this circumllance, to know the opinion thefe people had entertained of us, and what thev fuppofed to be the objeds of our voyage. He took confiderable pains to fatisfy himfelf on thefe points; but the only information he could get was, that they fuppofed we lud left our native country on account of the fcantinefs ofprovilions, and that we had yifited them for the fole purpofe of filling our bellies. This concluficri was natural enough, confidering the meagre appearance of fome ol our crew, the voracity with which we devoured their frcfh provifions, and our anxiety to purchate as much of it as we were able. One circumftance may be added to thefe, which puzzled them exceedingly ; that of our having no women with us. It was matter of entertainment to fee the natives pat- ting the bellies of the failors (who were much improved in flceknefs fince their arrival at the bay) and telling them, in the heft manner they could, that it was time for them to depart ; but, if they would return the next hread-fruit leafon, they (hopld be better able to fupply them. We had now continued fixteen days in the bay, during which time our. confumption of hogs and vegetables had been fo enormous, that we need not be furprized at their wifliing to fee us take our leave. But Terreeoboo had, perhaps, no other view, in his enquires, than a defire of having fufficient notice, to pre- pare fuitable prefents for us at our departure ; for, when we informed him of our intention to quit the ifland in two days, a kind of proclamation was immediately made, requiring the natives to bring in their hogs and -vegetables, for Terreeoboo to prefent to the Qrono, At the beach, we were this day much entertained, yvith the bufiboneries of one of the oativcs. la his band ■v'' he CAPTAIN COOK'« THIRD VOYAGE. 031 he held an inftrument of mufic, fuch as we have already dcfcribcd ; bits of fea-wecd were faftened round hw neck ; and, round each leg, fome ftrong netting ; on which were fixed foine rows of dogs teeth, hanging loofe. His dancing was accompanied with ftrange grimaces, and unnatural diftortions of the features ; which, though fometimes highly ridiculous, was upon the whole, without meaning or expreffion. Mr Webber made a drawing of this perfon : the manner in which the maro is tied ; the figure of the inftrument, and of the ornaments round the legs. Wreftling and boxing matches afforded us diver- fion for the evening ; and wc, in return, exhibited the few fireworks we had remaining. Nothing could more efTedlually excite the admiration of thefe iflanders, or ftrike them with more exalted icfeas of our fuperiority, than fuch a reprefentation. Though this was, in every reipedl, much inferior to that at Hapaee, yet the afto- nifhmcnt of the people was equally great. The carpenters which had been fcnt up the country, to cut planks for the head rail-work of the Refolution, had now been gone three days ; rnd, not having heard from them, we began to be alarmed for their f ifety. We exprefied our apprehenfions to old Kaoo, who ap- peared equally concerned with ourfelves ; but while we were planning meafures with him, for fending pro- per perfons after them, they all fafely arrived. 1 hey went farther into the country than they expedted, before they found any trees fuitable for their purpofe. This circumftance, together with the Iwdnefs of the roads,and the difficulty of conveying the timber to the (hips, had fo long detained them. 1 hey bellowed high commen- dations on their guides, who not only fupplied them with provifions, but faithfiilly prote VaTAGE* ikAehed to the fibres of cocoa-nut hufk^ ; and plenty of hatchets and iron ware, wliich had been received ffohi lis in barter. Not far from thefe was depofitcd an im- menfe quantity of various kinds of vegetables 5 and^ at a little diftance, a iarge herd of hogs. We fuppofed, at firft, that the whole was intended as a prefent ior us ; but we were informed^ by Kaircekeca, that it was a tri- bute to the king, from the inhabitants of that diibridl. And, we were no fooner feated, than the bundles were brought, and laid feverally at Terre^^oboo's feet; and the cloth, feathers, and iron, were difplayed before him* The king was perfedly fatisfied with this mark of duty from his people ; and fele£ted about a third of the iron utenfits, a third of the feathers, and fome pieces of ek)th ; he ordered thele to be fet alide by themi'elves ; and the remainder of the cloth, hogs, vcgetablea, &c. were afterwards preiented to Captain Gook and Mr King. The value and magnitude of tlus prefent, far exceeded any thing that we bad met with. The whole was immediately conveyed on board. The large hogs were fele^ed* in order xo be falted for fea ftore ; but the imaller pigs, and the vegetables, were divided between the crews. We left the morai, and got our obfertatories on board. The taboo was re!noved,and> with it, jts m&p» cal e3eds^ As foon as we had quitted thd place, £e people rullied in, ar.d vigilamly fearched; hoping ;to find fome veduable articles left behind* Mr Kio^ being the lail on fhore, and waiting xbr the return of the boat, the inhabitants cro^p^ded about him, and having p7aiIo ed on him to fit down among them, ex^eSc6 their regret at our feparation. It was even with dWkxkf that they woukl fuffer him to depart. Ha wasy ifN deed, highly efleemed among theory as will appear firosi the f(4k>wiki^ relation, Having had, while we were in the bay,. €^c eiom- mand of the party on fhon, lie beconse ifM&B& ac^piaiis^ I ed vitli the natives, and they with hiixv than tiio^e wko y^est reqi^i^ to be on board* J^e ex^qiaKxd |(reat| kindn butti unbot lie fc 1 ed wii main! ingkfi alledgi propoi concfta King's withov CpoI^ I reqsjefl ThtQ to a pre he coul tihitheri Kgedvji Oal Hlg, W« Med ©I ooea. *] vey of hoping liiakooa meant t< had beei Ont* A great oofis;, m cAeom^ prefenc c Hayib bniary, on the $1 ^y, wht CAfTAIN €OOR*« THIRD VOYAGE. ^35 kindn^efe «q4 ewUity from the inhabitants In geiiei-al, but the ff iendihip (hewn by the priefls was conRant axtid unbounded^ He was «Hxiou8 to conciliate their cfteem ; in which lie fo happiiy feeceeded, that, when they were acquaint- ed with the time of our departure, he was urged to re- maiobehiod^ and received overtures of the moft flatter- ing kind* Wheo he endeavoured to excufe himfelf, by alledging, that Captain Cook would not permit it, they piopoied to condu^ him to the mountains, and there concftnl bid till the departure of the ftiips. On Mr King's afftufing theni, dbtat the Captain would not fail ^thouc hifi»y the kiog and Kaoo repaired to Captain Cool^ ^whonx they fuppofedi to be his lather) formaHy {eq^^ilmg ^t h» aught be fufiered to remain behind. The CoB^Wodore, unwilliisg to give a pofuive refufal, to apropofal £0 generoufly intended, aiTured them, that he could not th^n part wtttii him ; but he (hould retunij tiiAther the ee^c year^^whsot he wx)uld eadeavouf to oh* Hgetlmnu OnThurfitey the 4;th of February, early in the morn- ing, we unmoored, and the Refolut'on and Difco^^ery j&iled out of the hayj attended by a vaft number of ca- noes. ' it w$9 Captain Cook's iatention tofinilh the fur- vey of 'Owhyhee^ befoie he went to t^ other iflands, hoping to meet with* a- road more iheltered than ^vara- ka«ooa Bay j and^ if he £hould not fueceed here, hf) meant to e^^atnine theS. E. part of Mowee, wliere he had been informed, ^ere was a raofib excelisnt harbour. On the 5th, and the following day, we had calm weatlieF, and con&q\jcnt!y our progrels was but flow.. A great number of the natives Allowed us in their ca- oofis ;• and Terreeoboo gave im « dditional proof of his cfteem Sot the Commodore, by fending a^er him a. large: prefent! of hogS; and vegptd»les* Hayibga.lightbnejeze, in the night of the jth of Fe* biuary, we made fomse prognefs to the north w» nd ; and»^ on the 6th, ilt tho mGramg, we« were abreaft of a deep I bay, which the iiativct call Toe-yah-yah. We flattered our- ■W-PP ^34 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. burfelves with hopes offinding a commodious harbour in this bay, as we law fome fine ftreams of water to the N. E. and the whole appeared to be well (heltered, Thcfe obfervations I'eeming to tally with the accornts given us by Koah, who .now accompanied Captain Cook, the Mafter was fent in the pinnace* with Koah as his guifle, to cbferve and examine the bay ; Koah having firft altered his name, out of compliment to uSj ;o that of Brif annee. Tlie weather became glooVny in the afternoon, and fuch violent gufts of wind blew off the land, that we were obliged to take in all the fails, and bring to, under the miztn-itay-fail. The canoes all left us as foon as the gale began ; and Mr Bligh, on his return, preferved ar old womsn and two men from drowning, whofec? o: had been overfet in the ftorm. We had i6veral women remaining on board, whom the natives, iii their hurry to depart, had left to (hift for themfelves. Mr Bligh reported, that he had landed at a village on tlie north lide of the bav, whire he was ihewn fomf, wells of water, that wouid not, by any means, anfwer our purpofe ; that he proceeded further into the bay; where, inftead of meeting with good anchorage, he found the fhores were low, and a flat bed of coral rocks extended along the coaft, and upwards of a mile from the land; the depth of water, on the omiide, being twenty fathoms. During this furvey, Britannee had contrived to flip away, being, perhaps, afraid of return- ing, as his. information had proved erroneous; The weather became more moderate in the evening, and we again made iail ; but it blew fo violently about midnight, as to fplit the fore and main-top-fails. We bent freih fails in the morning of the 7th, and had a light breeze,, and fair weather. Being now about four or five leagues from the ihore, and the weather very unfettled, the canoes would not Venturis off, fo that our guefts were under the necefl[ity of remaining with us, though much againfi their inclination j for tbey were , - . all CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 643 and Mr King proceeded to the beach : his firfl bufinefs, when he arrived on fhore, was to iffue ilridt orders to the marines to continue within the tent, to charge their mufquets with ball, and not on any confideration, to quit their arms. He then attended old Kaoo and the priefts at their refpcdlivc huts, and explained to them, as well as he was able, the reafon of the hoftiie prepara- tions, which had fo exceedingly alarmed them. He found they v/ere no flrangers to the circumftance of the cutter's bemg ftolen, and aflured them, that though the Commodore was not only refolved to recover it, but alfo to punifti, in the moft exemplary manner, the authors of the theft ; yet*hat they% and all the inhabitants of the village, on our fide, had not the lead occafibn to be' alarmed, or to apprehend the leaft danger from us, He importuned the priefts to communicate this to the peo- ple, and intreat them not to entertain an idea of fear, but to continue peaceable and quiet. Kaoo interrogated Mr ring, with great emotion, if any harm was to happen to Terrecoboo ? He aflured him there veas not; and both he and his brethren appeai'ed'much fatisfied with ■ this aflurance. <•- ,^ ., , ^ . , Captain Cook, having in the' mSn Jime, called cfF the launch, from the N. point of the bay, and' taken it' with him, landed at Kowrowa, with the lieutenant and ni u: r;\arines. He proceeded, immediately into the vj > :, where he 'was refpe^ifully received ; the peo- ple, i) afual, proftrating themfelves before him, and making their accuftomed oiTcrings of fmall hogs. Perceiving that his defign was not Tufpeded, lus next ftep was to 'nquire for the king, and the two boys, his fons, who had been almoft continually his guefts on board the Reiolution. The boys presently returned with the natives, who had been fearcning for them, and r ^mediately conduded Captain Cook to the habitation v'i crc' Terreeoboo had flept. The old man had juft awoke ; and after fome converfation refpeding the 1of* of the cutter, from which the Commodore was con-, Yinced that he was not in any wife privy to it, he invited Vol. H.-N" 42- 4 M him 644 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. iiinl to accompany him, and fpend the day on board the Refolutiom The king accepted the invitation, and arofe immediately to accompany him. Every thing had now a prolperous appearance ; the two boys were already in the pinnace, and the reft of the party approaching the water fide, when a woman, tiamed Kanee-kabareea, the mother of the boys^ and one of Terreeoboo's favourite wives, followed him, befeech- ing him, with tears and entreaties, not to venture to go on board. Two chiefs, who came with her, took hold of him, and inlifting he (hould proceed no farther, obliged j^im to fit down. The iflandej^ now coHe^ing in vaft rmf (^;ers along the ftiore, who had probably been alarmed by i 'ilcharging of the great guns, and the hoftile appears ;es in the bay, gathered together round Captain Cook and Terreeoboo. Thus iituated, the \i utenant of marines, perceiving that his men were huddled together in the crowd, and confequently unable to ufe their arms, if there (hould appear to be a neceility for it, ptopofed to Captsun Cook, to draw them up along the rocks, ciofe to the edge of the water. The populace making way for them to pafs, the lieutenant drew them up in a line $ within about thirty yards of the place where Terreeoboo was fitting. The old king continued, all this time, on the ground, bearing the moft vifible marks of terror and dejedion in his countenance. Captain Cook, unwilling to. aban- don the objeft which occafioned him to come alhore, urged him moft earrjieftly to proceed ; whilft, on the other hand, if the king exprefled any inclination to fol- low him, the chiefs, who furrounded him, interpofed j at firft, they had recourfe to prayers and entreaties, but afterwards to force and violence, and even infifted on his remaining on ihore. Captain Cook, at length, per- ceiving that the alarm had fpread too generally, and that there was not a probability of getting him off with- out much bloodfhecf, gave up the point ; at the fame obferving, to Mr Phillips, that, to compel him to go oa board) CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOTAdl. 64$ board, would probably occafion the lofs of many of the lives of the inhabitants. Notwithftanding this enterprize had now failed, and was abandoned by Captain Cook, yet it did not apptar " that his perfon was in the lead degree of danger, till an accident baj ,jened, which occafioned a fatal turn to the aftair. The boats, ilationed acrofs the bay, having fired at fome canoes, for attempting to get out, unfortunately had killed one of their principal chiefs. Intelligence of his death arrived at the village where Captain Cook then was, juft as he had parted from the king, and was proceeding with great deliberation towards the fhore. The ferment it immediately occafioned, was but too confpicuous ; the women and children were inllantly fent away, and the men were foon clad in their war* mats, and armed with fpears and ilortes. One of the natives having providea himiblf with a ftone, and a long iron fpike (called by the naXwcB sl fahooa) aidvanced towards the Captain, fiourifhing his we^on in defiance^ and threatening to throw the none, ifhe Captaun re- quelled him to defifi ; but the iHander repealing his menaces, he was highly provoked, and fired a load of fmall ihot at him. The man was ihielded in his war* mat, which the ihot could not penetrs^te; his firing^ therefore, ferved only to initate and encourage them. Vollies of flones were thrown at the marines ; and one of the frees attempted the life of Mr Phillips with his faboQa; but, not fucceeding in the attempt, he received from him a blow with the butt end of his piece. Cap* tain Cook immediately^ difcharged his fecond barrd, loaded with ball, and killed one of the moil violent of the aflailants. A general attack with ilones fucceeded, which was followed on our part, by a difcharge of mul^ quetry, not only from the marines, but alfo from the people in the boats. The natives, to our great aftoniQi'* ment, received our fire with great firmnefs ; and with- out giving time for the marines to charge again, they ruihed in upon them with dreadful fhouts and yells. What followed was a fcene of hoiror and confufion^ 4 M a whicU 6^6 CAPTAIN COOK'a THIRD VOYAGK. Tvliich can' more eafily be conceived than properly re- lated. Four of the marines retreated among the rocks, and fell a facrifice to the fiiry of the enemy; three others ' were dahgeroufly wounded ; and the Lieutenant ftab- ^bcd between the (boulders with a pahooa; but having ^fortunately refervcd his fire, Ihot the man from whom he had received the wound, at the inftant he was pre- paring to repeat his blow. The laft time our unfortu- nate Commodore was diftindly feen, he was ftanding at the v;ater*s edge, and ordering th^ boats to ceafc firing, and pull in. . -It was imagined by fomc oFthofe who were prcfent, that the marines, and thofe who were in the boats, fired without Captain Cook's orders, and that he wasanxioui to prevent the 'farther eiFuiioii of blood ; it is therefore probable, that, on this occafion, his humanity proved fatal to hiim : for it was obferved, that while he faced the natives, no violence had been offered him; but, when he turned about, tp give direfkions to the boats, jhe was ftabbed in the hack, and fell witb his face into ihe water. ^ general fhout was fet up by the iflanderi on feeing him fall, and his body was dragged inhumanly en fiiore, where he was furrounded by the cneoiy, wHq fnatchingthe dagger from each other's hands, dilplayed afavage eagernefs to join in his deftrudioh. , Such was the fate of our mpft excellent Commander ! After a life, diftinguiflied by fucli fuccefsful enter- prize, his death' can hardly be reckoned pi:emature; iince he lived to accompli(h the great ^ork for which he feemed particularly defigned y being rather removed from, the enj oy ment, tnan the acquifition of glory. How fmcereiy his lofs was lamented, by thofe who owed their fecurity to his fkiU and condu£l;, and every cQnfolation, to his tendemefs and humanity, it is impdffible to de» fcribe; and the taik would be etjually difficult tprepre- ieht the horror, dejedion, and difmay, which followed lb dreadful and unexpeded a cataflrophe. ' '^ <5- Tfcc V"ip^ ppn yWHYMElS inlj/i^ r i V t:^ ■^■•■f*' ■Mff"^ rooKS f'o,}: I r; AW (i:--- ■>-' V ■"r1^ :-^i :^M^\ i^m^^. *n ;/'im' UE^lTIIyf CJiF TAJK JAMEH CpOKj^R rujA'S f'o,yiir;/':s' mm UJ^r JA3^IE S OQKjP.RS.^^ tWarBCEH inJJ/^ 'if II.'. * 1 ;'^: #- .;*S,' |f I Lie locc of he I CAPTAIN COOKa THIRD VOYAGE. 647 C? The remaining Part of the Voyage is writtea By captain KING. Tranfa^ms at Owhyhsi^ fubfe^ueni to Captain CooliM Death — Bravery of Mr Pbillips — Situation of the Party ' at tb( Morai-rBravery of one of the Natives — Various SkirmiJhes^A Piece already related that four of the marlnea who attended Captain Copk, were killed by the liflanders on thefpot, The reft, with Mr Phillips their Lieutenant, threw themfelves into the water andefcaped^ under cover of a fmart tire from the boats. On thi| pccaHoQ, a remarkable inftance of gallant behaviour, audi of afFedion for his men, was fhewn by that offi(:er. For [he was fcarcely go^ inito the boat, when feeing one of he marines, who wa$ a bad fwimmer, ftniggling in the rater, and in danger of being taken by the enem^, he inune* 6^9 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGB. immtdiately jumped into the Tea to his afTiftance, though much wounded himfelF; and after receiving a blow on the' head from a ftone, which had nearly fent him to the bottom, he caught the man by the hair, and brought him fafe off. Our people continued for fome time to keep up a con- llant fire from the boats (which during the whole tran- faction, were not more than twenty yards from the land) in order to aiford their imiortunate companions, if any of them ihould ilill remain alive, an opportunity of] cfcaping. Thcfe efforts, feconded by a few guns that were tired at the fame time from the Refolution, having forced tlie natives at Jaft to retire, a fmall boat, manned by five of oiu" young midfhipmen, pulled toward the fhore, where they faw the bodies, without any iigns of | Kfe, tying on the ground ; but judgir.^g it dangerous to j attempt to bring them off, with fo fmall a force, and their ammunition being nearly expended, they returned to the fhips, leaving them in poileflion of ll^e id' "ders, | together with ten flands of arms. As foon as the general conAernation, which ini; nt^s \ of this calanrity occafioned throughout both cretvs, had a little fubfidcd, their attention was called to our party at the moral, where themafi and fails were on fhore, with a guard of only fix marines. It is impoflible for me to defcribe the emotions of my own miud» during the time thefe tranfadtions had been carrying cm, at the other fide of the bay. Being at the dxftance only of a ; fiiort mile from the village of Kowrowa, we could feei diilindly an immenfe crowd colledied on the ipot where Captain Cook had jufl before landtd. "We heard the &ing of the mufquetfy, and could percdve fbme extnh Ordinary buflle and agitation in the mulCkodev W6 afterwards faw the natives flying the boa^s retire from the fhore ind paffiog and repaSing, in great fltHne^ between the fhips. I mufl confefs that my heart foon mifgave me. Where a Hfe fo dear and valuable wai concerned, it was impoffit^e not to be atairmed, hf ap< ^arances both new and threatemxi^. But, befidesf* CAPTMN COORS THIRD VOYAGE. 649 J knew that a long and uninterrupted coiirfe of fucccfR, in his tranfad^ions with the natives of thcfe leas, had giyeo-the Captain a degree of conhdence that 1 was alvm^ fearful might, a; fome unlucky moment, put him tbo much off his guard; and I now faw ait tlic dangers to which that conHdence might lead, without receiving much confolation from coalidering the ex- perience that had given rife to it. My firft care, on hearing the mufqucts fired, was to affure the people, who were affembled in conlideraWc nimibers round the wall of our confecrated field, and ieemed equally at a Ipfs with otirfelves how to account I tor what they had feen and heard, that they (hould notl« moleded ; and that, at all events, I was defirous of con- tinuing on peaceable terms with them. We remained iii [this pofturc till the boats had returned on board, when jCaptain Gierke, oblerving through liis telefcope tliat |we were furrounded by the natives, ar i apprehending they meant to attack us, ordered two tour-poundei*s to X hred at them. Fortunately thefe guns, though well umed, did no mifchief, and yet gave the natives a con- vincing proof of their power. One of the bails broke a cocoa-nut tree in the middle, under which a party of them ?ere fitting ; and the other (hivered a rock that ftood \ix iaexa£t line with them. As 1 had Jull before given them khe ftrongeft aifurances of their fatety, 1 was exceedingly mortified at this zGt of hoftility ; and to prevent a repeti- noQ of it, immediately difpatehed a boat to acquaint ^aptain Gierke that at prefent 1 was on the moft friend- terms with the natives ; and that, if occafion Ihould ^ereafter arife for altering my condutfi toward them, £ muld hoifl a jack, as a fignal for him to afford us all the [(Tiflani^e in his power. We expeAed the return of the boat with the utmofl (ipatlcnce ; and after remaining a quarter of an hour« |nder the moft torturing anxiety and fufpenfe, our fears irere at length confirmed, by the arrival of Mr Bligh« ith orders to ftrike the tents as quickly ap poiiible, and feod the fails that were repairing on board. Juft at A ■:-*.i tf > CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOTAGE. the fame moment, our fricnid Kaireekeea, havinj^ alfo received intelligenceof the death of Captain Cook, from a native who arrived from the other fide of the bay . came to me with forrow and dejedion in his counte- nance, to enquire if it was true. Our fituatioa was at this time e?rtremely critical and im;^*ortanr. Not only our own lives, but the event of the expedition, and the return of at Jcaft one of the ihips, being involved in the fame common danp^er. \Ve had th^ maft of the Refolution, and the gredteil part of our fails on (hore, under the protection of only fix !r.a- rines : their • lofs would have been irreparable ; and thouph the natives had not as yet (hewn the fmalled dif- poiition to moleft us, yet it was impofllble t6 anfwer for the alteration, which the news of the tranfadlion at Kowrowa might produce, I therefore thought it pru* dent to diflemble my belief of the death of Captain Cock, and to defire Kaireekec i to difcourage the report ; left eiuier the fear §f pur refenlment, or the fuccefsful ex- ample of their countrymen, might lead them to feizc the favourable opportunity, which at this time offered itfelf, of giving us a fecond blow. At the fame time, I adviied him to bring old Kaoo, and the reft of vhe priefts, into a large houfe that was clofe tothe moral; partly out of regard to their fafely, in cafe it fliould nave been neceffary to proceed to extremities^ and part- ly to have him near us, in order to make ufe of his | authority with the people, if it could be inilrumentalio preserving peace. •* Having placed the marines on the top of the moraiV which formed a ftrong and advanragecus poft, and left the command with Mr Bligh, giving him the moft po- fitive directions to adt entirely on the defenfive, I went! on board the Discovery, in order to reprefent to Captaiaj Clerke the dangerous fituation of our affairs. A$ foori} as I quitted the fpot, the natives began to annoy ourl people with ftones ; and I had fcarcely reached jhe ihipJ before 1 heard the firing of the marines. I therefore re-J turned inftantly on ihore, where I found things gro?^| alh ^nfa 7 fori leagi wart drive thei m Captain cook's third voyage. ^3^ ftll exceedingly fea-fick and maAy of them had left their bfants on ftiore. Though the weather continued fqually, we ftood in for the land in the afternoon ; and, being within three leagues of it, we faw two men in a canoe, paddling to- wards us. We naturally conj e&ured that they had been driven cfFthe fliore, by the late voilent gale; and Hopped the fhip's ^yay, in order to take them in. They were fo exhaufted with fatigue, that had not one of the natives oh board jumped int6 the canoe to their afiift- ance, they would nardly have been able to fix it to the rope thrown out for that purpose. With difficulty, however, we orot them up the (nip's fide, together with a child of about four years of age, which had.been lafhed utider the thwarts of the canoe, with only its head above the water. They informed us, that they had quitted the land the morning before, fince which time they had not had food or w.i^er. Provifion was given them with the ufual precautions, and the child entrufted to the care of one of the women ; and, the next morning, they were all perfcAly recovered. A gale of wind coming on at midnight,, we were obliged to double reef the top-fails. At day-break, on the 8th, we found that the fore-mail had again g^ven way ; the fifties being fprung, and the parts To very de- fective, as to make it abfolutely neceflanr to unftep the mail. Captain Cook, for fome time, hentated^ whether he (hould return to Karakakooa, or take the chance of finding a harbour in the ifl^nds to leeward. The bay was not fo commodious, but that a better might pro- bably be met with, either for repairing the mails, or procuring refreihments ; the latter of which, it was imagined, the neighbourhood of Karakakooa had latelv been pretty w^ll drained of. It was, on the other hana, confidered as an imprudent ilep, to leave a tolerable good harbour, which, once loil, could not be regained, [for the mere pofllibility of meeting with a better; efpecially as the failure of fuch a contingency, might [have deprived us of any refource. Vol. II. N** 42. . 4I* We i^6 C AMAIN COOK'S THIRD VOTAOIR^ We flood on towards the land, to ^tve the natives oa (hore an opportunity of releafing their friends on board; and, about noon, when we were within £i mile of the fhore, feveral canoes came off to us, but fo loaded with people, that no room could be found for any of our guefts ; the pinnace was therefore hoifted out to land Siem ; and the Mafter who commanded it, was in« ftruded to examine the S. coaft of the bay for water^ but returned without fuccefs. Variable winds, an^aftrong current to the north- Ward, retarded pur progrefs in our return ; and, ii» the eveninjg of tKe^th, about eight o'clock, it blew very hard from tne S» 'ET which dccaiioned us to clofe reef the top^fails. £arly in the morning of the loth, in a heavy i^tiall, we ifound ourfelves clofe in with the breakers, to ^he northward of the W. point of Owhyh^e. We had jaii rooni to avoid them, and fired feveral guns to alarm the Difcov^ry, and apprize her of the danger. The weather, in tne forenoon, was more moderate, and a few canoes ventured to come off to us ; when thofe on board them informed us, that much mifchief had been pccaiioned by the late florms, and that a great manvcandes had been loft. We kept beating to wind« Ward th^ remainder of the day; and, in theevenbg, were within a mile of the bay ; but we flood oiF and on till day-light the ne^t morning, when we anchored In our old^^on. fh CAPTAIN COOK'. THittD VOTAQB. *» •■ r The Behaviour of the Iflanders^ on our Return to Karakakooa Bayjomewhat myfterhus-^A Theft committed on hoard thi Difcwery^^The Thieves purfued up the Country by Captain Cook and Mr King — Scvffie betvfeen the Natives and our Pfople^ in whichPareea receives afevere Blow — The Pin- nace attacked and plundered-^-Crew obliged to quit her^^ Captain Coois RefleSlims on the Occafton — Attempt at the Ohfervatory-^The Difcoverys Cutter Jlolen from the Buoy ^•^Steps taken for its Recovery — Captain Cook goes on Shore to invite the King and his two Sons on board-^His Wife and the Chiefs oppofe his going — A Conteft arifes on the Occa* fion-^Inteliigence arrives of one of the Chiefs being killed by one of our People — The Confequences-^-'A Chief threatens Qaptain Cook, and isjhot by him — A general Attack enfuo ^-Deatb of Captain Cook, THE whole of the iith, and part of the 1 2 th of Fe- bruary, we were engaged in getting out the forc- maft, and conveying it on fhore. Not only the head of the maft had fuftained damage, but the heel vra^ be- come exceedingly rotten, having a very large hole in the middle of it. Several days being probably required to make the neceffary repairs, MefT. King ana Baily gvit the obfer\'atory on fhore, and pitched their tents ontne' moral, guarded by a corporal, and fix marines. A friendly intercourfewas renewed with the priefts, who, for our great fecurity,to^^^wne/ Iton^ CAPTAIN COOK'S Tx RD VOYAGL <4t ^ones, that they were forced to a precipitate retreat,^y|^ main oif to a rock, at a confiderable diftance from t^ ihore. The pinnace was plundered immediately by the natives, and would have been entirely demoUihed, if ^reea had not interpiofed ; who had not only recovered from his Mow, but had alfo forgot it at the fame inilant* He ordered the crew to diijperie, and beckoned to our people to come and take poueflion of the pinnace; and afterwat^ds afliired them that he would ufe his influence to get the things reftored which had been taken out of it. After their departure, he followed them in his catKW^ carrying them a midihipman's cap^ and fome other ar«- ticlesof the plunder; and, exprcuing much concern at what had happened, begged to know it' the crono would kill him. and whether he might be permitted to coine On board th6 next day ? He was afTured that he would be well received, and therefore joined nofes with the officers (their ufual token of friendfhl: ) aad paddled over to Kowrowa. Captain Cook, when thefe particulars were reprefcnt- «d to him, was exceedingly concerned ; and, when he and Mr King were returning on board, he expreffed his fears that thefe iflanders would oblige him to purfue violent meafures; adding, they muft not be permitted to fuppofe, that they had gained an advantage over us» It was then, however, too late to take any Aeps thaC evening; he therefore only gave orders that every Iflander (hould be immediately turned out of the (hip* This order being executed, Mr King returned on fhore j and the events of the day having much abated our former confidence in the natives, a double guard wa$ pofted on the moral, with orders to let Mr King know* if any men were feen lurking about the beach. Ac deven o'clock, five of the natives were feen creeping round the bottom of the morai ; they approached widi great caution, and, at laft, perceiving they were dif- covered, immediately retired out of fight. About mid- night one of them ventured himfelf near the obferva- tory, when a ientinel fired over him ; on which they aU a"* C|a >APTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE* ^e^^nd we had no farther didurbance during the re« ipander of the night. y^ At day-light the next morning Mr King went on 'board the Refolution, in order to get the time-keeper: and in his way thither was hailed by the Difcovery, and received information thnt their cutter, had fome time in the night been ftolen, from the buoy, where it had been moored. On Mr Kin^*s arrival on board, he foutnd the ma- rines were armmg themfelves, and Captain G)ok bufi^ ed in loading his double-barrelled gun. Whilil he w^s acquainting him with what had happened in the night at the morai, he eagerly interrupteanim, and informed him of the lofs of the Difcovery s cutter, and of the pre- parations he was making to recover it. It was his ufual pradice in all the iflands of this ocean, when any thing of confequence had been ftolen from him, by fome ftratagem, to get the king, or fome of the principal Erees^ on board ; where he detained them as noftages, till the property was reftored. This method having hitherto proved fuccefsful, he meant to adopt on the prefent occafion ; and gave orders to flop every canoe that (hould attempt to leave the bay ; refolving to feize and deftrOy them if the cutter could not be recovered by peaceable means. In purfuance of which, the boats of Doth.il|ips, properly manned and armed, were Rationed acrofs the bay ; and before Mr King quitted the fliip, ibme great guns were fired at two canoes, that were at- tempting to efcape. Between feven and eight o'clock Captain Cook and Mr King quitted the (hip together ; the former in the pinnace, with Mr Phillips, and nine marines , and the ktter in the fmall boat. The laft orders Mr King re- ceived from Captain Cook were, to quiet the minds of j the people, on our fide of the bay, by the ftrongfeft aflu- rances that they (hould not be iniureci ; to keep hb peo- ple together, and to be continually on his guard. Cajp- 1 tain Cook and Mr King then feparated ; the Cr-ptain going towairds Kowrowa, where Terreeoboo relided; and Vot. I CAPTAIN COOK't THIRD VOTAGE. «i» ' I ing every moment more alarming. Thr^ natives were arming, and putting on their mats ; aqd their numbers increaied very faft., I could alio percdys feveral large bodies marching toward us, along the clifr which fepa- rates the village of Kakpoa from the north tide of the bay« where the village of Kowrowa is fituattd. They began at dm to attack us with itones» frombe« hind the walls of their enclofures, and finding no refid-- ance on our part, they foon grew more daring. A few rcfolute fellows having crept along the beach, under co« ver of the rocks, fuddenly made their appearanpe at the foot of the moral, with a defign as it feemied, of florm* ing it on the fide next the Tea, vyhicb was. its only acceP fible part; and were not 4iAodged, ti(r after they. had ftood a confiderable number of (hot, and feen one en their party tall. • , y i The bravery of one of thefe aflfailants well defervci to^ be particularly mentioned. For, having returned tocar^j ry oS his jcomparion, amidd the fire of our whole par-' ty, a wound,^ which he received, made him quit th^ bo* dy and retire ; but in a few minutes, he again appeared, and bekig again wounded, he was obligeoa fecond time fo retreat. At this moment 1 arrived at the moral, apd law jiim return the third time, bleeding and faint | and being informed of what bad happened, I forbade theiCblr diers to firevand he was fufFcred to carry off his friend f which he was juft able to perform, and thf-a fell dow^i^ hlmfelf, and expired. . . 1^ ' About this time, a ftrong reinforcement from both; diips having landed, the natives retreated behiiid their. walls I which giving me accefs to our friendly prists, t i^nt one of them to endeavour to bring their covinpryinci^ to feme tern^s, and to propofe to them,thatif they woiijii defift from throwing {ionesl I would not permit our ineii to fire. This truce was agreed to ; and Vf^ vfetQtuffpK^ lolauncli the ma(l,and c^ry off the fails and our ailrO'^ nomical apparatus uniholeued. As ibon ^as we bad quitted tfic moral, they look pofTtlTion of it, and iome Vol. 11.^04^^ ^1^ "of I|4 CAt^tAiW t06K'* tHfRD VOYAGR of tjiem Ihrei^ii few ftones, but without doing us ad^ ^ It Wfis half ati hour paft eleven o'clock when I got on ^b^i^i tilt Bii^dvtryj where I fouhd no decifive plan had &een adopted foi' our fiiture proceedings. The reftitu^ tiop of tl^e boat, and the recovery* df the body of Captain Gb6k» Were the ol^e£ts which, on all hands, we agreed fb i^ft bn ;>nd it war my opinion that fome vigorous ditps ihotild be tak^n in dtfe th^ demand of them was fiot immediately coTni>lted with', tiowcter, after ma- ture deliberaticNl^it was det^t-iiimed to accomplilh \htk pdints by cbnciliatory meafures, if poflible. j'Bilrittg the titofe we Wer0 ttitid engaged Itfconccrting fbthe plan fbr our fltture cbiidiidl:, a prbdigioU^ con** cteiit-fe of natim ftili ke^jt pbfleffion oif the more ; and fome of the(n came oifin canoes, and had theboldnefs it^'^proaeh nvithin piftbl^^bt ot the (hips, and t6 in- flilt tis by various mirtcs of coiltempt and defiance. It tvM Vi*ith greit jiifEcuIfy we cbuld reftrain the failorj frbm the uft of their arms on thcfe occafions ; but as psieific meafiires had beenre|blved ou, the canoes were fiiffercd to Return urttooiefted. 'r.'^o -v ^ In puifuance of this plan, U i^vis acteAnmed that I mtiuH proceed tb^ard the (hbre, with the bbatsof both flv^s t^eU ndanned and armed, with a view to bring the nittves^tb a p^ey, and, if poifibley to obcaiii a confer* ent:e with fbttie of the chiefs. , If this attempt fucceeded, I was to demand the dead bodies, iod particularly that of Capr, Cook ; to threaten ihetri with oui- ven^nCe iti cafe of a refufal^ but by no megiiS tb fire utilefs attacked, and not to latidbi^ any ijejCoiInt whatever^ Thefe ofdefs were delivered to ihe^l)t!Bre the whole party, irtd in the maftpofitivc ^ rirftthe'nups ibout four o'clock in the aRerhoon, Atifdias we appfbached the fltor^, 1 perceived every in- citatioa of a hoftile reception. The whole crowd of sadves was in motion ; the women and children retip itig J die men putting on their war-mats, and arming them- CAPTAm COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. €^2 ihetnfelves with long fpears and dag;gcr8. We alfoob- fer^ed (hat fince the morning, they had thrown up (lone breafl-works along the beach were Captain Cop^ had landed, probably in expe£tation of an attack at that place; and, as foon as we were within reach, they begati to throw ilones at us with Htngs, but without doing any mifchief. Concluding theretore that all attempts to bring them to a parley would b^ in vain, unkfs I.fitfl gave them Tome ground for mutua) ^nfigence, I order- ed the armed boats to ilop, and w^nt on in the fmall boat alone, with a white flag in my hand, which, bv a general cry of joy from the natives, I had the iatiarac- tion to find was inftantly underftood. Ttic women in»- mediately returned from the fide of the hil], whither thejr had retired ; the men threw ofi* their mats ; and all fat down together by the water-fide, extending t(ieir armfi, and inviting me to come on (hore. - Though tliis behaviour was very expreflxvc of a friend- ly difpoiition, yet I could not help entertainiug ibme ilifpicions of its fmcerity. But when I faw Koah, with a boldaefsand afTurance altogether unaccountablcfwinv- ming oS* toward the boat, with a white flag in hi$i hatu), I thought itneceil'ary to return this marjk; of confidence, and therefore received him into the boat, though armed; a circumflance which did not tend to ieflcQ my fufpi- cions. I mud confefs I had long harboured aa un£i- vourable opinion of this man. The priefts had always told us that he was of a malicious difpofltion, and no friend of ours; and the repeated detedions of his &au4 and treachery had convinced us of the truth pf their t^-* prefentations. Add to all this, the (hockiing traniadipn of the morning, in which he was feen aifling a principal part, made me feel the utmoft horror at ^dlng i9yl^f ib near him ; and as he came up to me with Signed tears and embraced me, I was Ho diftrudful of his int«9- tlons that I could not help taking hold of the point of the pahooah, which he held in his hand, and turning it from me. I told him that 1 had come to demand the body of Captaia Cook, and to declare war agaiaft them« j 4 N 3 unl^ft m^- 6s4 CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE. unlefs it was indantly reflored. He afTured me this ihould be done as foon as poiTible, and that he would go himfelf for this purpofc ; and after begging of me a piece of iron, with as much aifurance as if nothing ex- traordinary had happened, he leaped into the Tea, and fwam aChore, calling out to his countrymen that we .were all friends again. We waited near an hour with great anxiety for his re- tuui ; during which time, the reft of the boats had ap- proached fo near the (hore, as to enter into converfation with a party of the natives at fome diftance from us; by whom they were plainly given to underhand that the body had been cut to pieces, and carried up the country; but of this circumllance 1 was not informed till our re- turn to the (hips. I began now to exprefs fome impclience at Koah's delay, upon which the chiefs prefTed me exceedingly to come on (hore ; affuring me that if I would go my feif to Tcrreeoboo, the body would certainly be reflored to me. When ther founa they could not prevail on me to land, they c^rempted, under a pretence of wifliing to converfe with more eafc, to decoy our boat among fome rocks, where they would have had jt in their power to cut us off from the reft. It was no difficult matter to fee through thefe artifices ; and 1 was there- fore ftrongly inclined to break off all further com muni* cation with them, when a chief came to us, who was the particular friend of Captain Gierke, and of the offi- cers of the Difcoverj. He told us he came from Tcr- reeoboo to acquaint us, that the body was carried up the country, biit it (hould be brought to us the next morning. There appeared a great deal of fincerity in his manner ; and being afked if he told a falfehood, he hooked his two fore-fingers together, which is under- ftood amongft thefe iflanders as the fign of truth : in the ufe of which they are very fcrupulouF. As I was now at a lofs in what manner to proceed,! fent Mr Vancouver to acquaint Captain Clerke with all that had pafTed j that my opinion was, they mear\t net CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE. «5J to keep their word with ii3, and were fo far from being forry at what had happened, that, on the contrary, they were full of fpirits and confidence on account of their iatevfuccefs, and fought only to gain time, till they could contrive fome fchemc for getting us into their power. Mr Vancouver catne back with orders for me to return on board, having firft given the natives to underlland that if the body was pot brought the next morning, the town fliould be deftroyed* When they faw that we were going off, they endea- voured to provoke us by the moft infuliing and con- temptuous geftures. Some of our people faid they could diftinguifh levcral of the natives parading about in' the cloatbes of our unfortunate comrade ; and among them, a chief brandifliing Captain Cook's hanger, and a wo- man holding the fcabbard. Indeed there can be no doubt but that our behaviour had given ihem a mean opinion of our courage ; for they could have but litde notion of the motives of humanity that direded it. In confequence of the report I made to Capt. Clerke, of what I conceived to be the prefent temper and dif- pcfiiion of thefe illanders, the moil effedual meafures I were taken to guard again (I any attack they might make I in the night. The boats were moored with top^chains; addinonat fentinels were polled on both (hips; and guard-boats were ilationed to row round them, in order to prevent the natives from cutting the cables. During the night we obferved a prodigious number of lighisx)ii Ithe hills, which made lome of us imagine they were Iremoviug their i'ffcdls back into the country, in coni<;- Iquence of our threats. But I rather believe them 16 have been the iacrifices that were f erforming on ac- count of the war, in which they imagined themfelves ibout to be engaged ; and moft probably the bodies of mrflain countrymen were at that lime burning. We paflTed the night quietly, and ea^ly the next morn- fng, Koah came alongfide the Refolution with a prefent ^f cloth and a fmall |)ig, which he defired leave to pre- sent to me, i have mentioned before that I was lup- pofedy ^5^ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOTArE. poied, by the natives, to be the fon of Captain Cook ; and as he in his life time had always fuifered them to belieTe it^ I was probably confidered as the chief ifter his death* As foon as I came on deck, I queftioned him about the body ; and on his returning me nothing but cvafive anfwers, I refufcd to accept his prefents, and was going to difmifs him with ibme expreffions of anger and refentment, had not Captain Gierke, judging it beft at ail events to keep up the appearance of friendlnip, thought it more proper that he mould be treated ^vith the uSal r«fpcds, to ;erward tol C face fro M herto i an- re did lation Ohiorc, ly ne- would yYidi\a )m the )luiion : could liat the felt by Adhere- igh, on rowefs, ; other. jr iuac* conch8, iff, over I |fe how- id info- n muf* feveral lis head, and en- a flame I qiuarter- 1' to put! ifted inc .erke,to tnging laintingi jr fomel md pro*! ieitatio&l CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAG?. 6^ leftation at the watering-place, the next day, they (hould then be left at liberty, to cUaftife them. It is fomewh^t rem^rk^ble, that before we could bring our guns to beJir, the iflanders hz^d fufpeds, to exprefs either killing or^ wounding ; and wc were af- terward told, that tliis chief had only received a flight blow o% \. face from a Itone which hg^ been £iruck by one of the baUy*. K5t CAPTAIN COOK»8 THIRD VOYAGE. The next morning, the boats of both fhipa were fent ^alhore for water; and the Difcovery was warped clofc to the beach, in order to cover that fervice. We foon found that the intelligence which the priefts had fent us, was not without foundatidn ; and that the natives were refolved to take every opportunity of annoying us, when It could be done without much rifk. Throughout all this group of iflands, the villages, for the moft part, are fituated near the fea ; and the adjacent ground is cnclofed with ftone walls, about three feet nigh. Thefe, we at firft imagined, were intended for the divifion of property ; but we now difcovered that they ferved, and probably were principally defigned, ■for a defence againft invaiion. They confift of loofe ilones, and the inhabitants are very dexterous in ihift- ing them, with great qiiicknefs, to fuch fituations as the direction of the attack may require. In the fides of the mountain, which hangs over tne bay, they have alfo lit- tle holes or caves, of confiderable depth, the entrance of which is fecured by a fence of the lame kind, From behind. both thefe defences the natives kept perpetually harafling our waterers with ftones ; nor could the fmall force we had on (hore, with the advantage of n^ufquets, compel them to retreat. In this expofgd fituation, our people were (o taken up in attending to their own fafety, that they employed the whole foienoori in filling only one ton of water. As it was therefore impoflible to perform this fervice, till their affailants were driven to a greater diftance, the Difco- very was ordered to diflodge them with Her great guns; which being effeded b^ a tew difchargcs, the men hfld- ed without moleftation. However, the natives foon after made their appearance again, in their ufual mode of attack ; and it was now found abfolutely neceflary to burn down fome ftraggUng houfes near the wall, be- hind which they had taken melter. In executing thefe orders, I am forry to add that our people were hurried into adts of unncceflary cruelty and devaftation. Some- thing ought certainly to be allovtred to their refentmeiK CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 663 i,for icent ; feet dfor I that gned, loole ftiift- as the of the Ifolit- Ltrance From etually e fitiall fc^uets, ken up yed th^ As it ill their Diico- Ltguns; m land^ les foon nI mode •ceffary rall,be- ig thefe [hurried Some- jntmcot of the repeated infults, and contemptuous behaviour of the iflanders, and to the natural defire of revenging the lofs of their Commander. But at the fame time, their condudt ferved (Iron^ly to convince me, that the utmbft precaution is ncceflary in trufling, though but for a moment, the difcretionary ufe of arms, in the hands of private feamen or foldiers, on fuch occafions. Their orders were only to burn a few draggling huts, which afforded flielter to the natives. We were there- fore a good deal furprifed to fee the whole village oa fire ; and before a boat, that ^^ as fent to ftop the pro- grefs of the mlfchief, could reach the Ihore, the.houfes of our old and conftant friends, the priefU, were all ia flames. I cannot enough lament the ilhiefs that con- fined me on board this day. The prieRs had always been under my protedlion ; and unlickiiy, the officer* who were then on duty, having been feldom on (hore at the moral, were not much acquainted with the cir- cumftances of the place. Had I been prefent myfelf, I might probably have been the means of faving their little fociety from deflrudion. Several of the natives were (hot, in making their efcape from the flames ; and our people cut off the heads of two of them, and brought them on board. The fate of one poor iflander was much lamented by us all. As he was coming to th^ well for water, he was fhot at by one of the marines. The ball flruck his cali- bafh, which he immediately threw from him and fled. He was purfued into one of the caves I have before de- fcribed, and no lion could have defended his den with greater courage and fiercenefs ; till, at laft, after having kept tvfo of our people at bay for a confiderable time, he •xpired covered with wounds. It was this accident that firft brought us acquainted with the ufe of thefe caverns. At this time, an elderly man was taken prifoncr, bound, and fent on board in the fame boat with the heads of his two countrymen. I never faw horror fo ftrongly pictured, as in the face of this man, nor fo Ivigleat a tranfition to extravagant joy, as when he was untied. %; 664 CAl^TAlN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE. untied, and told he might go away in fafcty. He fliew- ed us he did not want gratitude, as he frequently after- Ward returned with prefents of provifions ; and alfo did ws other fervices. Soon after the village was deftroyecL we faw coming down the hill, a man, attended by fifteen or twenty boys, holding pieces of white cloth, green boughs, plan- tatns, &c. in their hands. I knew not how it happened that this peaceful embaiTy, as foon as they were within reach, received the fire of a party of our men. This however did not flop there. They continued their proceffion, and the officer on duty came up in time to prevent a fecond difcharge. As they approached near- er, it was found to be our much eftcemed friend Kairee- keea, who had fled on our firft fetting fire to the village, and had now returned, and defired to be fent on board the Refolutipn. When he arrived, we found him exceedingly grave and thoughtful. We ^endeavoured to make liim under- ftand the neceflity we wer^ under of fetting fire to th^ village, by which his houfe, and thofe of his brethren, were unintentionally confumed, He expoflulated a litrle with us on our want of friendfhip, and our ingra- titude. And indeed, it was not till now that we learnt the whole extent of the injury we had done then)* He told us that, relyirig f.n the promifes 1 had made them, and on the afTurancos they had afterwards received from the men, who had brought us the remains of Captain CboK, they had not removed their effects back into the country, with the relt of the inhabitants, but had put every thing that was valuable of their own, as well as what they had colieded from us, into a houf^*clofe to the moral, where they had the mortLticatiqii to fee it ^11 fet on fire by purfelves. On coming on board, he had ieen the heads of his countrymen lying on the deck, at which he was exceed- ingly fhocked, and defired with great earpeflnefs that they might be thrown over-board. This requeft Capt, Qfike inftanily ordered tQ be compUed witl][i In board, pa fled , heard OJily c occafic ft is CAPTAIN CO-^y - HIRD VOYAGE. ^♦ «r^' ew- [ter- .did grav^ inder- tp th^ thren, ted a V lof h» :ceed- that CapU In the evenirtg, the watering party returned tm board, having met with no farther interruption. We palled a gloomy night ; the cries and lamentationB VB^ heard on rtiore neing far more dreadful than ever. Our only ct)nlblation was, the hope that we (hould have no occafioil in future, for a repetition of fuch feveritirs. It is very extrirordinary that amidil all thcfc difturb- ances, the women of tbe iiland, who were on board, never offered to leave us, nor difrovercd the fmalleft apprehcnfions either for themfelves or their fiiends aOiore. So entirely unconcerned did they appear that fome of theim, who were on deck when the town was in flames, feemed to admire the fight, and frequently cried out, that it was maitaij or very hne. The next morning, Koah came off as ufunl to the (hips. As there exifted no longer any neceflity for keeping terms with him, I was allowed to have my own way. When he approached toward the fide of the (hip, finging his fong, and offering me a hog, and fome plantains, I ordered him to keep off, cautioning hifli never to appear again without Captain Cook's bones, left his life mould pay the forfeit of his frequent breach of promtfe. He did not appear much mortified with this reception, but went immediately on (hore, and join- ed a party of his countrymen, who were pehing the waterers with ftones. The body of the young man, who had beeil killed the day before, was found thi^ morning, lying at the entrance of a cave ; and fome of our people went, and threw a mat over it. Soon after which they faw fome men carrying him off on iheir Iflioulders, atid could hear them finging, as they march-^. d, a mt)umful fong. The natives being at laft convinced that it was not :he want of abiUty to punilh them, which had hitherto ade us tolerate their provocations, defifted from giving I any farther moleftation ; and in the evening, a chiei ailed Eappo,. who had feldom vifi^ed us, but whom we new to be a man of the very firft confequence, came ith prefents from Terreeoboo to fue for peace. Thefe ^refeutswere received, and he was difmifTed with the 1^1 fame' ^66 CAPTAIN COOK'S * IRD VOYAGE. fame anfwer which had before been given, that until the remains of Capt. Cook (hould be reftored, no peace would be granted. \Ve learned, from this perfon that the fleih oFall the bodies of our people, together with , the bones of the trunks, had been burnt ; that the limb bones of the marines had been divjdtd amongft the iri- . ferior chiefs ; and that ihofe of Captain Cook had been di^ofed of in vhe following manner : the head, to a great chief called Kahoo-opeon ; the hair to Maia-maia ; and the legs, thighs, and aims to Terreeoboo. After it was dark, many of the inhabitants came off with root6 and other vegetables ; and we alfa received tvf o large pre- sents of the fame articles from Kaireekeea. The 19th was chiefly taken up in fending and rt- ceiving the naeffages which paffed between Capt. Clerke and Terreeoboo. Eappo was very preffing that one of .■ar officers (hould go on (bore ; ana in the mean time, ofieredto remain as an oftage on board. This requeft, however, it was not thought proper to comply with; Snd he left v,^, with a promife of bringing the bones next ay. At the beach the watercrr^ did not meet with the leaft oppofition from the natives ; wdio, notwithftanding | our cautious behaviour, came amongft us again, with- out the fmallefl appearar^ce of diffidence or appre^i Henfion. Early in the morning of the 20th, we had the fatis^l faction of getting the foremaft (lepped. It was an oper- ation attended with great difilculty, and fome danger; our ropes i>eing fo exceeding rotten that the purchafe gave way feveral times. Between ten and eleven o'clock, we faw a great num- ber of people defcending the hill, which is over thej beach, in a kind of procelfion, each man carrying a fu-j gar- cane or two on his fhoulders, and bread-fruit, taroJ and plantains m his hand. They were preceded by] two drummers ; who, when they came to the water*] fide, fat down by a white flag, and began to beat their drums, while thofe who had followed them, advanced! one by one ; and having depofited the prefents they hgA brv>ught| retired in the fame order. Soon afterj Captain cook'« third voyage. 66% Eappo came in fight, in his long feathered cloak, bear- ing fometliing with great folemnity in his hands ; and having placed himfelf on a rock, he made ligns for a boat i«o be feftt him. Captain Gierke, conjecturing that he had brought the bones of Captain Cook, which proved to be the fare colleded on the (bore in great numbers ; anfi^ a«? we p liTed along, received our laft farcwclb wuh cvc-y mark of afildioa and good-wilL '*■ We got clear of tlic latul abor/ ten on the 2 2d, add hoifting in the boats, Hoorl to the northward. In the afternoon of the 2Arh, tire weather being calm^ with light airs from the weir, wc ftood on to the N. N* \V. but at funfet obferving a (heal ftretching from the W. point of Mowee, toward the middle of the paflagej we tacked, and ftood toward the fouth. The S. W. fide of this ifland, which we nowhadpaf-' fed without being able to get near the fliore, forms the fame diftant View with the N. E. as fecn on our return from the north in November 1778, the mountainous parts, which are connedled by a low, flat ifthmiis, ap- pearing at firft like two feparate iflands. On the ^.7th, we got to the windu-ard of Woahoo, an ifland we had feen at our firft vifit. Between the north point and a diftant headland, which wefawtothe S. W. the land bends inward confiderably, and appear- ed likely to af!brd a good road. At a quarter pafl two the fight of a fine river, running through a deep valley, induced us to come to an anchor in thirteen fathoms water, with a fandy bottom. In the afternoon, I at- tended the two Captains on fhorc, where we found but few natives, and thofe moftly women; the men,they told us were gone to Morotoi to fight Tahyterree ; but that their chief Perreeoranee, who had ftayed behind, would •ertainly vifit us, as foon as he heard of our arrival. We were much difappointed to find the water had a ^rackilh tafte, for two hundred yards up the river, owing ^ 4P 2 to S. ^■' tt7* QAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. to the marfhy ground through which it empties itfelf into the Tea. As the watering at this place would have been attend- ed with great labour. Captain Gierke determined, with- out further lofs of time, to proceed to Atooi. On the 28th, we bore away for^hat ifland, which we were in fight of by noon ; and about funfet, were off its eaftern extremity. We pafled the night in plying on and off, and at nine the next morning, came to an anchor in twenty- f»ve fa- thoms water. We had no fooner anchored in our old ftation, than feveral canoes came alongfide of us ; but we could ob- ferve, that they did not welcome us with the fame cor- <}iality in their manner, and fatisfadlion in their coun- tenances, as when we were here before. A« foon as they got on board, one of the men began to tell us that we had left a diforder amongft their women, of which feveral perfons of both fexes had died, Our principal objed: here was to water the (hips with the utmof^ expedition ; and I was fent on Ihore early in the afternoon. The gunner of the Refolution accom- panied me to trade for provifions ; and we had a guard of five marines. We found a confiderable number of people coliedted upon the beach, who received us at Srft with great kindnefs ; but as foon as we had got the cafks on (hore, began to be exceedingly trouble- fome. It was with great difEculty I was able to form a •circle, according to our ufual practice, for the conve- nience of our trading party ; and had no fooner done it, than I faw a man laying hold of the bayonet of one of the foldiers mufquets, and endeavouring with all his force, to wrench it out of his hand. On my coming up to them, the native let go his hold and retired ; but re- turned in a moment, with a fpear in one hand and a dagger in the other ; and his countrymen had much ado to reftrain him from trying his proweis with the fol- 4i^r. This fray v^"ft8 occaaoned by the Uttcr's haying giver, TAFTAIN CaOK's THIRD VOYAGE. 67 T given the man a flight prick with his bayonet, in order to make him keep without the line* I now perceived that our fituation required great cir- eumipedtion and management ; and accordingly gave the ftridefl orders that no one fhbuld fire, nor have re- courfe to any other a£l of xviolence, without pofitive commands. As foon as I had given thefe dire are coafined 4 0^2 to le that the focial qualities of the dog, its fidelity, attachment, aitd fagacity, will remain unknown to tlic natives. Th« number of dogs in thefe iflands did not appear to be nearly equal in proportion to thofe in Otahcite. But, on tlie other hand, they abound much more in hogs; and the breed is of a larger and weightier kind. The fupply of provifions of this kind, which we got from them, was really aflonifl)ing. We were near four months euher cruifis.g off the coaft, or in harbour at Owhyhee. During all this time, a large allowance of frefli pork was conftantly ierved to both crews; fo that our confump- . tion was computed at about fixty puncheonsof five hun- drtd weight each. Befides this, and the incredible walte, wliich, in the midft of fuch plenty, was not to be guijrdfd againft, fixty puncheons more were fahed for iea (tore. Tlie greatefl part of this fupply was drawn from »he ifland of Uwhyhee alone, and yet we could not perceive chat it was at all drained, or even that the abun- dance ha * any way deoreafed. Tf e bird^ of thefe iflands are as beautiful as any wJ have luM) duri' g the voyage, and are numerous, thqitij!v n(>f V »rif'us. Tar«e are four w!ii»'.h feem to bcloiig i/j the UoMif 01 hoaey-luckers of Lionaeus ; one olwliidij ii CAPTAIN COOK*t THIRD VOYAGE. ^19 of LOt mc lite rn- )er- lich etn. was ope. ebar iither it is lelity, Lothc is fomething larger than a bullfinch ; its colour is a fine glofly black,' the rump-vent and thighs a deep yellow. It is called by the natives- hoohoo. Another is of an ex- ceeding bright fcarlet colour; the wings black, and edged with white ; and the tail black ; its native name is eeteve, A third, which feems to be either a young bird, or a va- riety of the foregoing, is variegated with red, brown, and yellow. The fourth is entirely green, with a tinge of yellow, and is called akaiearooa, T here is a fpecies of thrufti, with a grey bread ; and a fmall bird of the fly- catcher kind ; a rail, with very (hort wings and no tail, which, on that account, we named rallus ecaudatus. Ravens are found here, but they are very fcarce ; their colour is dark brown, inclining to black ; and their note is different from the European. Here are two fmall birds, both of one genus^ that are very common ; one is red, and generally leen about the cocoa-nut trees, parti- cularly when they are in flower, from whence it lbem« to derive gr-ra part of its fubfiftence; the other is green j the tongues of both are long and ciliated, or fringed ^ the tip. A bird with a yellow head, which from tW ftrudure of its beak, we called a panoquet, is likewife very common. It however, by no means belongs to that tribe, but greatly refembles the lexiajlavicans^ or yel- lowiih crofsbill of Linnaeus. Here are alfo owls, plovers of two forts, one very like the whiftling plover of Europe ; a large white pigeon ; a bird with a long tail, whofe folour is, black, the vent land feathers under the wing (which is much longer ihaa ^^ lis ufually feen in the generality of birds, except the Ited for Ibirds of paradife) are yellow ; and the common water drawn lor darker hen. )uld not I The inhabitants of the Sandwich Iflands are undoubt- lie abun- fcly of the fame race with thofe of New Zealand, the Jocirty and Friendly Iflands, Eafterlfland, and the 0i^y vv..^arqueras. This flidl, whichyv extraordinary as it is, thaOw^-Bl^ght be thought fnfficienrly proved by the ftriking ! \org tBniiarity of their manners and c ifloms, and the general >iwlucti| refem- 68o CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. refemhlance of their perfons is eftabliftied beyond aB ConrrovfHy, by theabiolute identity of their language. From what continent they originally emigrated, and by what fteps they have Ipread through lo vaft a fpace, thofe who are curie us in diiquifirions of this nature, may perhaps not find it very difficult to conied:ure. It has been already obferved, that they bear firong marks of affinity to fome of the Indian tribes thai inhabit the La- drones and Caroline iflinds ; and the lame affinity may ag^in be traced amongit the Bartas and the Malays. When thefe events happened, is not foealy toafceriainj it was probably not very lately, as they are extremely populous, and have no tradition of their own origin, but what is perfe countenances ; and the women in particular, h good eyes and teeth, arid a fweetnefs and fenfibility lock, which rendered them very engaging. Their hai is of a browf.ifh black, and neither uniformly ftraighl like rlat of thf Indians of America, nor uniformly cui ling, as 'tmongft the African negroes, but varying inthjl re(pc£t» like the hair of Europeans, One iiiiking pe iiarity, ui the features of every part of this great nati 1 do not remember to have feen any where mentioni uvhich is that, even in the handfomett faces, there is ways a fulnels of the noilril, without any flatnefs -ipreading of the nofe, that diftingulihes them froi Europ Eur e/Te. forn T Oftf] here. perfe their make count here, i cruifir an old portioi height. hump-1 or feet them ; Was bro imper^e n CAPTAIN COOJC'8 THIRD VOYAGE. etf Europeans. It is not improbable that this may be the effe(Sk of their ufual mode of falutation, which is per- formed by preffing the ends of their nofes together. The fame fuperiority that is oblervable in the perfons of the Erees^ through all the other iflands, is foimd alfo here. Thofe whom we faw were, without exceptioa, perfe^ly well formed ; whereas the lower fort, belidcR their general inferiority, are ful»j(6t to all the variety of make and figure that is feen in the populace of other countries, inftances of deformity are more frequent here, than in any of the other iflands. Whilft we were cruifing ofFOwhyhee, two dwarfs came on board, tne an old man, four feet two inches high, but cxad:ly pro- portioned, and the other a woman, nearly of the lame height. We afterwards faw three natives, who were hump-backed, and a young man, born without hands or feet. Squinting is aUo very common amongil them ; and a man, who they faid, had been born blind, was bro ight to us to be cured. Befides thefe particular impertediions, they are in general very fubjf £i to boils and ulcers, which we attributed to the great quantity of fait they eat with their flefh and fi(h. The Erees are very free froni thefe complaints ; but many of them (uf- Ifer ftill more dreadful effedls from the immoderate ufe of the^v^. Thofe who were the moft affedled by it, had their bodies covered with a white fcurf, their eyes rati land inflamed, their limbs emaciated, the whole frame |trembling and paralytic, accompanied wirh a difability to raile the head. Though this drug does not appear miverially tofhorten life, as was evident from the cafes 3f Terreeoboo, Kaoo, and fome other chiefs, who were ^ery old men, yet it invariably brings on an early and lecrepid ckl age. It is fortunate that the ufe of it is lade one of tie peculiar privileges of the chiefs. The ^ounp: fon of 'I erreeoboo, who was about twelve years [Id, ufed to boad of his being admitted to drink ava^ and lewed us, with great triumph, a fm^U fpot in his fide lat was growing fcaly, 1 There IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k 1 A (/. V ^jio 1.0 I.I ■ 36 1^ |££ m us IM I I 2.2 2.0 1.8 L2I III u 1 1.6 "W V2 ^/ •^' Photographic Sciences Corporation ?? h;esv main strut Wti;iiSTH,N.Y. U5M (716)872-4503 V ^V ^ L-C^ '^ '^\^^^ ^^^ ^¥1^^ V '■ o^ s 483 CAPtAIN COOK'S THIRD VOTAGS. ' There is fomething very fingular in the hiftory of thii fernicious drug. When Captain Cook firft vifited the ociety iilands, it was very little known among them. On his fecond voyage, he found the ufe of it very pre- valent at UHetea ; but it had ftill gained very little ground at Otaheite. When we were laft there, the dreadful havock it had made was beyond belief, info- much that the Captain fcarce knew many of his old ac- quaintances. '^At the Friendly Iflands, it is conftantiy dnmk by the chiefs, but fo much diluted with water, that it does not appear to produce any bad effeds. At Atooi alfo it is uled with great mcxieration, and the chiefs are in confequence, a much finer fet of men there than in any of the neighbouring iflands. Oiir good friends, Kaireekeea and old Kaoo, were perfuaded by lis to refrain from it ; and they recovered amazingly during the ihort time we afterward remaned in the ifland. Notwithilanding the irreparable lofs we fufFered from the fudden refentment and violence of thefe people, yet in juflice to their general condud, it mufi be acknow- ledged that they are of the mofl mild and affedionate dilpofition ; equally remote firom the extreme levity and ficklenefs of the Otaheitean8,and the diftant gravity-and rderv« of the inhabitants of the Friendly Iflands. They appear to live in the utmoft harmony and frienJfhip with one another. The women, who had children, were remarkable for their tender and conflant attention to them ; and the men would often lend their afliflance in thofe domeflic offices, with a wiilingoefs that doei credit to their feelings. It muft however be obferved,that they fall very (hort of the other iflanders, in that beft tefl of civilization, the refpedl paid to the women. Here they are not only de- 1 prived of the privilege of eating with the men, but the | beft fort of food are tabooed, or forbidden them. They I are not allowed to eat pork, turtle^ feveral kinds of fifhJ and fome fpecies of the plantains ; and we were told that a poor girt got a terrible beating, for having eaten oqI board tAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGI. 6^ t)oard bur (hip, one. of thefe interdidled articles- Iq their domeflic life, they appear to live almofl by them- fclves, and though we did not obferve any innance of perfonal ill-treatment, yet it was evident they had iitd^ regard or attention paid them. The great hofpitality and kindnefs with which we were received by them, have been already frequently temarked. The old people never failed of receiving us with tears of joy ; feemed highly gratified with being allowed to tquch us, and were conftantly making com- parifons between themfelves and us, with the ftrongeft marks of humility. The young women were not lei kind and engaging; and til! they found, notwithflanding our utmbft endeavours to prevent it, that they had realon to repent of our acquaintance, attached themfelves to us without the leaft referve. In juftice however to the fex^ it muft be obferved, that thefe ladies were probably all of the lower clafs of the people; for I am flron^ly inclined to believe, that ex- cepting the few whole names are mentioned in the courfe pf our narrative, we did not fee any woman of rank during our (lay amongft them. . Their natural capacity" (eems in no refpedb below the common ftkndard of mankind. The- eager curiofity with which they attended the armourer's forge, and the many expe^i^nts they had invented, even beiore we left the iflands, fpr working the iron they had procured, from us into fuch forms as were bed adapted to their purpofes, were ilrong propfs of docility and ingenuity«V We met with two inllances of perfons difordered m. their minds; the one a man at Owhyhee, the other a, woman at Oneeheow. It appeared, from the particular attention and refpedl paud to them, that the opinion of their being infpired by the divinity, which obtains among mo(l of the nations of the Rail; is alfo received Ihere. The inhabitants of thefe iflands differ from thofe of [the Friendly iiles, in fufFering, almoft univerfally, their [beards to grow. There were indeed a few, amongft' Vol U.«f.^« 43. " 4 R whom 11^4 6 AfrtA !N COOtf 's t H I RD VOT ACI. whom Wiis th^ oM King^ thiit cut it off entirely, and others that wore k only upon the upper lip. T^ lame Variety, in thie manner 6f Wearing me hair, is alfo obfer- Viable nere, as among the other iflanders of the South Seas; befides which, they have a fafhion, as far as we know, peculiar to themfel ves. They cut it clofe on each fide of the head down to the ears. ■ Both fexes wear necklaces made of ilrin^s of fmafl yariegsKed (HeHs; and an ornament, inthetorm Of the handle of a cup, about two inches long, and half ttn mch broad, made 6fiHrood, ftonfe, or ivory, Imelv potiflied, Vvhich is htihg about the hair with fin&thr^ds of twii^ ed hair, doubled -femetimes an hundt^ fold, inft^ of this ornamdnt, fome of theim we&rt)n Yheir bnetf^ a finail human figure made tii bone, Mpended in the fame manner. . The cuftoni iyiidiicwing the feody, they hstv^ii icom- mon v^rith the reft of the nartives of the South Seaiflanife • but it is only at New Zealand, aiid'fhe Sand^idiiflands, diat they tattow the fiii(*e. , They hav6 a ^nigular eoiftcmi amongit them, ^ meaning 6f whidh we -couid never learn— that, of taitovoiti^ the t'

we fi^und that they had no immediate knowledge of any other nation whatever,, nor any trar dition remaining among them of thefe iflands haVmg been ever vifited before by fuch (hips aa ours*. The coiiimpa drefs of the women bears a clofe ret* femblance to that of the men. They wrap round tho w^ a piece of cloth that reaches half way down the thighs, and ibmetimes in the cool of the evening tl^ey ap|>ear^ with loofe pieoes of fi^e cloth th^wn over their Shoulders, like the women of Qtaheite. The fat0 is another dreis very frequently worn l>y th^ younger part of the fex. It is made of the thinneft and iineft ibrt of cloth, wrant ieveral times round the wjaiil* and defcending to the leg, fo as to have the appearance of a full ihort petticoat. Their aecklaces are made of fhell^ or of a hard^ Alining, i;ed berry. Befides which they wear wreaths 9f dije4 flowm c^tbe Indiaa mailowj «ud another ^ R :; . beautifut 6B6 CAPTAIN COOR*t THIRD VOYAGE. beautiful ornament, called eraie^ which is generally put about the neck, but is fometimes tied liKe a garland tound the hm, and fometimes worn in both thefe ways at once. It is a ruff, of the thicknefs of a finger, made in a curious manner of exceedingly fmall feathers, tfoven fo clofe together, as to form a lurface as fmooth ' as that of the richeft velvet. The ground vvas generally of a red colour, with alternate cirdes of green, yellow, and black. At Atooi fonrie of the women wore little figures of the turtle, neatly formed of wood or ivorv, tied on their lingers in the manner we wear rinj?s. Why this animal is thus particularly diftinguiihed, i leave to the conjec- tures of the curious. There remains to be mentioned another ornament (if fuch it may be called.) It is a kind of a mafk, made of a large gourd, with holes cut in it for the eyes and nofe. The top was ftuck full of fmall green twigs, which at a diilance had the appearance of an elegant waving plume ; and from the lower part hung narrow ftripes of cloth, refembling a beard. We never faw thefe maiks worn but twice, and both times by a number of people together in a canoe, who came to the fide of the fhip,^ laughing and drolling, with an air of mafquerading. The rood of the lower clafs of people confifts princi- pally of fifh and vegetables ; fuch as yams, fweet pota«- Jtoes, tarrow, plantains, fugar-canes and bread-fruit. To thefe the people of a higher rank add the flefh of hogs and dogs, drtflfed in the fame manner as at the Society Iflands. They alfo eat fowls of the fame domeftic kind with ours ; Init they are neither plentiful nor much eileemed by them. Their fi(h they fait, and preferve in gourd-ihells ; not as we at firft imagined for the pur- pofe of providing againft any temporary fcarcity, but from the preference they give to faired meats. For wp alio found that the Erecs uled to pickle pieces of pork ia vthe fame manner, and ef^eemed it a great delicacy. They are exceedingly cleanly at their meals ; and thdr mode of dxeffii^ both ttieii animal and vegetable foo4 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE tBJ food, was univerfally allowed to be greatly fuperior to ours. The chiefs coiJlantly begin their meal with a dofe of the extrad of pepper- root, brewed after the ufual manner. The women eat apart from the men, and are tabooed^ or forbidden as has been already men- tioned, the ufe of pork, turde, and particular kmds of plantains. The way of fpending their time appears to be verr fimple, and to admit of little variety. They rife with the fun, and, after enjoying the cool of the evening, re- tire to reft a few hours after funfet. The making of canoes and mats forms the occupations of the Erees ; the women are employed in manufa£tunng cloth, and the Towiows are principally engaged in the plantations ana fifliing. Their mulic is of a rude kind, having neither flutes nor reeds nor inftruments of any other fort that we faw^ I except drums of various fizes. But their fongs, which they fung in parts, and accompany with a gentle mo-t tion of the arms, in the fame manner as the Fnendljf llflanders, had a very pleafmg efTetH:. h is very remarkable that the people of thefe ifland^ lare great gamblers. They have a game very much like |eur draughts ; but, if one may judge from the number Df fquares, it is much more intricate. The board is about ^wo feet long,and is divided into twohundred and thirty^ nght fqare9 ; of whicfi there are fourteen in a row, and |hey make ufe of black and white pebbles, wjiich ther Sovc from fquare to fqiiare. There is another ganife,whiphconf)fts in hiding a ftone inder a piece of cloth, which one of the parties fpreadft lutand rumples in fuch a manner that the place where ne ftones lies is difficult to be diftinguiflied. The anta-» mid with a ftick, then ftrikes the part of the cloth [here he imagines the ftone to be, and as the chances feupon the whole, Cbnfiderably againft his hitting it, ids, of all degrees, varying with the opinion of the (kill [the parties, are laid on the fide of him who hides. [Befidss thefe gamei^ they frequently amufe thern-^ felvet 686 eAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOTAGl. QiveB With racing-matches between the boys and girls; and here again they wager with great fpirit. I law i , man, in a moft violent rage, tearing his hair and beat- ing his bread, after lofing three hatchets at one of thefe races, which he had jufl before purchafed from us with half his fubitance. Swimming is not only a neceilary iart, in which both * their men and women are more expert than any people we had hitherto Teen, but a favourite diverfion amongft them. One particular mode, in which they fomttimci .'amufed themfelves with this exercife in Karakakooa Bay, appeared to us moft perilous and extraordinary, ana well deiervin^ of a diftm^t relation. The furf, which breaks on the coaft round the bay, extends to the didance of about one hundred and fifty yards from the fhore, within which fpace, the furges of &e fea, accumulating from the (hallownefs of the waterj are daOied againil the beach with prodigious violence. Whenever from ftormy weather, or any extraordinary fwell at fea, the impetuofity of the furf is increafed tgitil with^e utmoft height, theychufe that time for this amufementil ^e iifam •inrhich is performed in the followitig manner : Twenty! which w et thirty of the natives, taking each a narrow boanll roas ma rounded at the ends, iet out together from the {hore.1 kaftedy t The hrit wave they meet they plunge under, and ful^ J An ace ing it to roll over them liie beyond it, and make thJJKrtr earl belt of their way by fwimming out into the feai iecond wave is encountered in the ^me manner wi the firfl ; the great difficulty confiding in fei^^ proper moment of diving under it, which, if mn the perfon is caught by the fur^ and driven back a with great violence^ and all his dexterity is then requi; to prevent himfelf from being dalhed agalnft the roci As foon as they h^ve gained, by thefe Ivpeated effori the fmooth water beyond the fan,they iay themselves length on their board and prepare for ihetr f eiturn^ ' tkeliufconfifisof a number of waves, of which evi third is remarked to be always much larger thaoi ethers, aad to flow higher oQthQihmitb^ reft '^'^ in tin themi theyi Aore, onecA ehelar propel pofed I again f out. ' ihore, J eoadb( there a i failure,'! Ing an- ter, as both tolofe all rears of it, and to fet its dangeni ^ deBance. A canoe being overfet in which was a wo- man ^th her chUdren,'One of them an infant, who I am convinced was net more than fouryearsold,ieemed high^ lljr delighted With l^hat -had happened, fwimmlng about lit its eafe, and jllaying a hundred tricks, till the canoe [was put to rights again. Beiides the amuiements I have aheady mentioned, the mogehlidrea have one which was much played at, and lewed no fmall degree of dexterity. They t^e a lort dick with ^ pe^ iharpened at both ends, running cough one extremity of ir, and extending about ah thcon^cach.fitfe.j.'^aiid throwing up a ball made of -greea ' li ■H <^ CAPTAIN COOK*t THIRD VOYAGE. green leaves moulded together, and fecured with twine, they catch it on the point of the peg ; and immediately, throwing it up again from the peg, they turn the Aick round, and thus keep catching it on each peg alternately, without mifling it, for a confiderable time. They are not lefs expert at another game of the fame nature, tof. fmg up in the air, and catching in their turns, a number of theie balls ; io that we frec^uently faw Httle children thus keep in motion fiv? at a time. With this latter play the voung people likewife divertthemfelves at the Friend- ly iflands. Their cloth is made of the fame mateiials, and in the fame manner as at the Friendly and Society iilands. That which is defigned to be painted is of a thick and Arong texture, feveral folds being beat and incorporated together ; after which it is cut in breadths about two ot three feet wide, and is painted with great tafte and regu- larity of defign, ^ . The bufmefs of painting belongs entirely to the wo- men, and is called kifparee ; and, it is remarkable that they a' s gave the iame name to our writing. The young \ «nen would often take the pen out of our hands, and fbew us that they knew the ufe of it as well as we did, at the fame tinie telling us that our pens were not fo good as theirs. They looked upon a (beet of written paper, as a piece of cloth Rripped after the falhion of our country, and it was not without the utmo(^ difficulty that "we could make them underftai^d that Our figures had ^ meaning in them which theirs had not. Their mats are made of the leaves of the pandanusj and, as well' as their cloths, are beautifully worked in % variety of patterns, and (lained of different colours. Some have a ground of pale green, fpotted with fquaresi of romboids of red : others are of a draw colour, fpot- ted with green, and others are worked with beautihil Aripes, either in ftraight or waving lines of red and brown. In this article of manufacture, whether we re* gatrd the (Irength, fineoefe^ or beauty, tb^y certainly ex^ %el the whole worid. \ Thegl neat an The to three diftria: cd at O ofthefe by the 1 put the Vol. II Captain cook's third votage* ^t* in the [(lands, ckand lorated two ot d Tcgu- Their fiftiing-hooks are made of motlicr-of-pearl, bone, or wood, pointed and barbed with ijmall bonei» or tortoife-fhel). They are of various fixes ai\d forms ; but the moil common are about three inches long.--—-* Coniidering the materials of which thefe hooks arc made, their iirenj^th and neatneis are really adoniihing; and in fa£l we found them, upon trial} much fuperior to our own. The line which they ufe for fifliing, for making nets, and for other domeftic purpofes, is of different degrees of finenefs, and is made of the bark of the touta^ or cloth tree, neatly and evenly t willed, in the fame manner as our common twine. They have a finer fort, made of the bark of a fmall (hrub called areemak ; and the fineft lis made of human hair. The ^oUrds, which grow to fo enormous a fize, that feme ot them are capable of containing from ten to twelve gallons, are applied to all manner of domellic purpofes \ and in order to fit them the better to their relpedtive ufes, they have the ingenuity to give them dinerent forms, by tying bandages round them during their growth. Thus, fome oTthein are of a lon^ cylin>- drical form, as bed adapted to contain their fiihing- tackle ; others are of a diih form, and thefe ferve to hold their fait, and faked provifions, their puddings, vcgeta- hles &c. which two forts have neat clofe covers, made- like wile of the gourd ; others again are exadly the (hape of a bottle with a long neck, and in theie xhtf keep their water. They have likewife a method of fcoring then\ with a heated indrument, fo as to give them the appearance of being paiuted| in a variety of neat and elegant defigns. The people of thefe iflands are manifeftiy divided in*' to three claifes, the firft are the Erees, or Chiefs, of each didri^ ; one of whom is fuperior to the red, and is caiU cd at Owhyhee Eree-taboo^ and liree Moee, By the firft of thefe words they exprefs his abfolutef authority ^ an4 by the latter, all are obliged to prodrate themfelves (or [put themfelves to deep, as the word fignifies) in imi Vol. 11.— N? 45. 4 S pr«-» 4z CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. prcfence. The fecond clifs are thofe who appear to en- joy a right of property, without authority. The third are the towtows^ or fervants, who have neither rank nor property. The great power and liigh rank of Terreeoboo, the Erce^taboo of Owhyhee, was very evident from the man- ner in which he was received at Karakakooa, on his fird arrival. All the natives were leen proftrated at the en- trance of their houfes ; and the canoes for two days be- fore were iabooedy or forbidden to go out, till he took off the reftrainr. The Chiefs exercife their power over one another in the mod haughtv and oppreflive manner. Of this I (hall give two inftances. A Chief of the lower order had behaved with great civility to one of our ofHcers; and in return, I carried him on board, and introduced him to Captain Cook, who invited him to dine with us. While we were at table, Pareea, who was Chief of a fu- perior order, entered, whofe face but top plainly man!- felled his indignation at feeing our gue(l in fo honour- able a fituation. He immediately feized him by the hair of the head, and was proceeding to drag him out of the cabin, when the Captain interfered ; and after a xleal of altercation, a\\ the mdulgence we could obtain, •without coming to a quarrel with Pareea^ was, that our gueft (hould be fuiferea to remain, being feated upon the noor, whilfl Pareea filled his place at the tablie. At ano- ther tiqne, when Terreeoboo firft came on board th? Refolution, Maiha-maiba, who attended him, findinf^ Pareea on deck; turned him out of the (hip in the moft ignominious manner. The religion of thefe people refembles, in moft of its principal features, that of theSociety and Friendly iflands. The Morais, their Whattas^ their idols, their facrinces, and their facred fongs, all of which they have in coipmon with each other, are convincing proofs, that their r€li-| gious notions are derived from the fame fource. V It has been mentioned, that the title of Grow, with all] its honours, was given tp Caj)tain Qook ; and it is alf , Qertainj nent, caliedl iath< CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOtAGE. ^3 fi oertain that they regarded us, generally, as a race of people fuperior to themfelves ; and ufed often to fay, that the great Eato^a dwelled in our country. The lit- tle image we have before mentioned, they faid, was Tcr- reeohoo*8 god; and that he aUb'refided amongd us* They called him Koonooraekaiee. In a bay to the Southward of Karakakooa, a party of our gentlemen were conduced to a large houfc, in whicb they found the black 6^ure of a man, reHing on his fin- ders and toes, with his hand inclined backward ; the imbs well formed and exaftly proi)ortioned, and the whole beautifully polifhed. This tigure the natives called Maee ; and round it were placed thirteen others of rude and diftorted ihapes, which they iaid were thq Eatooas of feveral deceafed Chiefs, whofe names they re- counted. The place was full of whattas, on which lay the remains of their offerings. They likewlie give a {)lace in iheir houfes to many ludicrous and fome ob- fcene idols, like the Priapus of the ancients* Human iacri6ces are more frei^uent here, according to the account of the natives themielves, than in any other iflands we vifited.* Thefe horrid rites are not only had recourfe to upon the commencement of war, and prc^ ceding great battles, and other iignal enterprifes ; but the death of any confiderable Chief calls for a facrifice of one or more "Tawtows^ according to his rank ; and wo were told that m^n were dellihed to fuifer on the death ^ of Terreeoboo. To this clafs of tl\eir cuftoms may alfo be referred that of knocking out their fore>teeth, as a propitiatory fa- crifice to the Eatooay to avert any danger or mii'chief to which they might be expofed. The word iabooy implies, laying reftraint upon per- fons and things. Thus they fay, the natives were iahoo" «/, or the bay was tabooed^ and fo of the reft. This word is alfo ufed to exprefs any thing facred, or emif nent, or devoted. Thus the King of Owhyhee was cdWtil Eree'-4aboo ; a human viftim, tangata-taboo ; and ia the fAme maimer among the Friendly iilanders, Ton- ... i ^ 4 S 2 ga, .S ^- (fy4 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGI.' g^vthe ifland whefe the King refides, id named Ten^a* iaiop. The women are faid to be tabooed when they are forbidden to eat certsiin kind of meats* TremfaBkm during the Second Expedition to the North^ by the Way of Kamtfchatka ; and on i^e Return home^ by the Way of Canton^ and the Cape of Qood Hope^ from March i'jyg^ to Attgttfi 1780. ON the 15th of March, at feven in the morning, we weighed anchor, and pafling to the N. of Tahoo- fa, flood on to the S. W. On the 23d the wind, which had been moderate for fome time, frcfliened and in* creafed to a ftrong gale, which fplit fonie of our old fails, and made the running rigging very frequently give way. This gale lalVed twelve hours ; it then her tame mote moderate, and continued fo tilt the 25th at nootiy ivhea we tntirely IpH it, ftnd had only a very tight air. On the 3dth, the windd and unfetded (hte of the t^athet induced Captain Gierke to alter his plan, and at fix in the evening, we began to fteer N. W. which we continued till the 6th of Aprif, when we loft the trade initiA. As the did running ropes were conilantiy break- ins in the late gales we reeved what new ones we had mg ie(t, lett, and made fuch other preparadons, as v^^ere necef- fary for the very different climate with which vre. were liov^ (hortly to encounter. The fine iveather we met with between the tropics had not been idly fpent. The ear^nters found fufncient employment in repairing the boats. The bed bower cable had been fo much damtb- ged that we were obliged to cut forty fathoms from it. The airing of fails and other (lores, which, from the Icakiaefs ^ the decks and fides of ^he ihips, were per^ < i ♦ pcti^allf # CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 69s nctuaUy fubjeft to be wet, had now become a trouble- fomc part of our duty. Bcfides thefe cares, which had rejjard only to the (hips themfelvcs, there were others, which had for their ob- jeft the prefervation of the health of the crews that fur- 'ni(hed a tonftant occupation to a great number of our hands. The ftanding orders, eftablifhed by Captain Cook, of airing the bedding, placing fires between decks, walhing them with vinegar, and Imoking them with gun-powder, were obferved without any intermiffion. For lorhe time paft, even 1he operation of mending the jailors old jackets had rifen into a duty both of diiHcuIty ind importance. It may be neceifary to inform thoie who are unacquainted with the habits of Teamen, that they are fo aocuftomcd in ihips of war to be directed in the care ofthemfelves by their officers, that they lofe the very idea of fore-fight, and contradl the thoughtleflnefs I of infants. I am fure that if our people had been left to their own difcretion alone, we (hould have had the [whole crew naked, before the voyage had been half mniftied. It was natural to exped: that their experience, jduring our voyage to the North laft year, would have lade them fenfible of the neceffity of paying fome at- tention to thefe matters ; but if luch refle mity of the earth, barricaded with ice, and covered with. iumraer fnow, in a poor miferable port, we met with feelings of hun^anity, joined toagreatnefsof mind, wl^(;U! would have done honour to any nation or climate, r 7] During the night much ice drifted by us with the tide, and at daylight I was fent with the boats to examine, the bay, and deliver the letters we had brought from. Oonalaihka to the Ruffian commander. We dire^ed. our courfe toward the village I have juft mentioned, and having proceeded as far as we were able with the boats,, we got upon the ice, which extended near half a mile from the fhore. Mr Webber and two of the feamen, accompanied me, whild the mailer took the. pinnace, and cuaw> to finilhthe furvey, leaving the jolly-boat be-*) hind to carry us back. , /\ I believe the inhabitants had not yet feen either thefhip . or the boats ; for even after we had got on the ice, we- could not perceive any figns of a living creature in the; J % i I Sy the time W€ had advanced a Ut^e way on xkt' yoi. ii—N? 44. » '^ 4 T ' j^g ^' 7Stt CAI^AIN COOKV THf RI> YOY AG 1/ > ic^, iw appointed at this abrupt departure, aa we began to&nd dur journey over the ice attended not only with great ^ifficuky, but even with danger. We funk at every ftep almo^l knee deep in thefnow, jtM. though we found to- lerable footirg at the bottom^i^ the weak parts of the iee not being difqoverable, w^ were conilantly expoi^d to the rifle of breaking through it. This accident at Jaft ac- ttiaffy happened to myielf ; for, fl'epping on quickly cW^r a fuipictous fpot, m order to preis with left weight ifnon it» I came upon a fecond before I couM ftop my- Iot, which broke under me, and in I fell. Luckily, f rbfe clear of the ice ; and a man tbat was a Httle way behind with a boat-hook throwing it to me, 1 (aid it skrofs feme loofe pieces near me, aiKi by that means was enabled to get upon firm ice again. • When wc were within a quarter of a mile of the q/k&g^ we perceived a body of armed men nuircliing iKDwawli V», confiftrng of about thirty foldiers, heacfed by a de- oent looking perfon, with a cane in his hand. He halt- ed' within a few yards of us, and df ew up b»s men in a martial and good order. I delivered to him Ifmyk^ff's letters, and endeavoured to make him underiVand, ai Wdf as: i could (though I afterward feund in vain), that we were Engjifh, and had brought them papers from Oonalafhka. After having examined us atteiitively, he beg^n to conduct us toward the viflage in great filence a^d iblethnity, frequently baking his men to foriii them iti dtfierent manners^ and m«ke them perform /event jwtrts of their manual exe!:cife^V ^ ^ . . i, ^ Tbotigh I was ali thi^ rime ixi' tof Wtt dotbet (bivo^ •^^^^ * «* « . .• " ■ '' ing . CAPTAIN COOKV THiRI> VOYAQ^. 701 inig with cold, and fufEclently Inclined to due oioft «i9- Gonditional fubmiilioa, without liaviflgftty hats vf olenjt- ly alafined, yet it was ioipofliblejiot to|)6 702 CAPTAIN COOKV THIRD VOYAGE. * (Qtainred but of a very excellent tafte. After havioe ' eaten a part of this, it was taken olF, and we were ferved with fiin dreiled two different ways ; and foon after the bird again maiie its appearance in lavory and fwttt pates. Our liquor, of which 1 (hall have to fpeak hereafter, was of the kind called by the Ruflians ^ua/s^ and was much the w^rft part of the entertainment. The lerjeant's wife brought in fevetat difhes herfelf, and was not permitted to (it down at table. Having (ini(hed our repaft, during which it is hardly necefTiry to remark that our converfa- lion was confinea to a few bows, and other figns of mu- tual refpedl, we endeavoured to open to our hoft the Caufe and objeds of our viiic to this port. As IfmyloiF had probably written to them on the fame fubjed in the letters we had before delivered, he appeared very readily to Conceive our meaning ; but as there was unfortunately mo one in the place that could talk any other language except Ruffian or Kamtfchadale, we found the utmoft difficulty in comprehending the information he meant to convey to us. After fome time fpent in thefe ^ndeavourg to underlland one another, we conceived the fum of the intelligence we had procured to be, that though no fupi- ply, either of provilions or naval ftores were to be had at this place, yet that thefe articles were in great plenty it Bolcneretfk. That the commander would moft pro- hdb\y be very willing to give us what we wanted ; but that, till the ierjeant bad received orders from him, nei- ther he nor fjis people, nor the natives, could even ven- ture togo on board the (hip. ♦ v» * It was now time for us to take our leave: «nd, as roy clothes were ftill too wet to put on, I was obliged to have recourfe again to the ferjeant's benevolence, for his L ave to carry thofe 1 had borrowed of him on board. This jrequeft was complied with very cheerfully, and a fleoge, drawn by hve does, with a driver, was immedi- ately provided for each of our party. Tht; failor« were highly delighted 'with this mode of conveyance ; and wnat diverted them (^ill more was, that the two boat- 1 hooks had alfo a fledge appropriated to themfelyes. I'M '.. j' ' ' ' . Theft CAPTAIN COOK*! THIRD VOYAGE. ^03 'Thefe (ledges ut' {6 light, and their conilru£lion fo vrt\\ adaptS to the purpofes for which they are intend- ed, that they went with ^reat expedition, and perfe^ fafetyover the ice, which it would have been impoflible for us, with all our caution, to have paiTed on foot. On our return, we found thel>oats towing the (hipa toward the village ; and at feven we got clofe to the ice, and moored. Next morning the carpenters werefet to work to {lop the leak, which had given us fo much trou- ble during our laft run. Several of our gentlemen paid their vifits to the ferjeant, by whom they were received with great civility ; and Capt. Gierke fcnt him two bot* ties of rum, which he underftood would be the mofl: ac- ceptable prelent he could make him, and received in return feme fine fowls of the groufe kind, and twenty trouts. Our fportfmen met with but indifferent fuccefs-; far though the bay Iwarmed with flocks of ducks of va- rious kinds, and Greenland pigeons, yet they were ft) ihy that they could not come witfiin ihot of themi In the morning of the ift of May, feeing the Difco-* vei7 ftandiiig into the bay, a boat was immediately fent to her aflillance ; and in the afternoon (he moored clofc by us. They told us that after the weather cleared up on the 28th, the day on which (he had parted company, they fbund themfelves to leeward of the bay, and that when they got abreaft of it the following day, anu faw the entrance choaked up with ice, they ftooa off, after firing guns, concluding we could not be here ; but find- ing afterward it was only loofe drift ice, they had ven- tured in. The following morning, on our obferving two fledges Idrive into the village, Captain Gierke fent me on (hore, to inquire whether any meffage was arrived from the Commander of Kamtichatka, which, according to the ll«rjeant*s account, might now be expeded^ in ccafe- Iquence of the intelligence that had been fent of our ar-* rival. Bolcheretfk, by the ufual route, is about one mndred and thirty-five Englifh miles from St Peter and k Paul's. Our difpatches were fent off in a fledge drawn 7«4 CAPTAIN COOR'i THIRD VOYAGE. drawn by dogs, on the igtii, about noon. And tli'e aniwer arriTed, a)s weafterw^irds found, early thi(» mlMii- ing ; lb that they were only a little more ^an thte days and a half in performing a journey of two hugdlred and feventy miles. The return of the Ciommander's anfwer was, hdw* ever, concealed from us lor the prefent ; and 1 was told, cm my arrival at the rerieant*6,tnat we fliou^d hear from him the next day. Whilft I was on (hore, the boat inrhidi had brought me, together with another belong!^ to the Difcovery, were fet feft in the ice, which a louw therly wind had driven from the other fide of the foay« On feeing them entangled, the Difcovery's launch had been fent to their aii£ince, but foon (hared the fame fate ; and rn a fliort time, the ice had furrounded them near a quarter of a mile deep. This obliged us to ftay on (hore till evening, when finding no profped of get>> dng the boats off, fome of ub went in fledges to theedgc of the ke, and were taken off by boats fent from thi ihip, and the rd% ftaid on fhore ail night. tt continued to freeze hard during the night, but bei. fore morning, on the 24th, a change of wind drifted away the floating ice, and (et the boats at liberty, without their having fufiained the fmalleil damage. About ten o'clock in the forenoon, we fkw ib¥era) fledges driving down to the edge of the ice, and fentt|]!^'th foi boat to conduS the perfbnis who were in them ^* We could not help being much diverted with the feart d apj^rehcnfions of thefe good people, and particularly ith the account Mr Port gave us of the ferjeant's wary ifQceedings the day before. On feeing me come on, ore, in company with fome other gentlemen, he had ade him, and the merchant, who arrived in the fledge* ^ e had feen come in thq mornings hide themfel CAPTAIN COOK*i THIRD VOtAGZ. reeled to the meiins of procuring a fupply of freih pro«. vifions and naval (lores ; from the want of which we had been for fome time in great diftrefs. On inquiry, it appeared that the whole (lock of live cattle, which the country about the bay, could furni(h, amounted only to two heifers ; and thefe the ferjeant very readily pro. mifed to procure us. Our applications were next made to the merchant, but we found the terms, upon which he offered to ferve us, io exorbitant, that Captain Qerke thought it nece(rary to fend an ofHcer to vint the Com- mander at Bolcheretfk, and to inquire into the price of (lores at that place. Captain Clerke having thought proper to fix on me for this fervice, I received orders together with Mr Webber, who was to accompany me as an interpreter,, to be ready to fet out the next day. . Captain Gore was now added to our party, and we were attended by MefTrs Port and Fedojfitich, with two coiTacks, and were provided by our condudors with warm furred cloathing ; a precaution which we fooii found very neceflary, as it began to fnow brifkly jull after we iet out. At eight o clock, being (lopp^a by £boal water, about a mile from the mouth of the river,, fome fmall canoes belonging to the Kamtfchadales. took itp us and our baggage, and carried us over a fpit or (and, which is thrown up by the rapidity of the river, 4nd| which they told us was continually (hifting. When we had crbfTed this (hoal, the water again deepened ; and here we found a commodious boat, built and ^(haped like a Norway yawl, ready to convey us up the river, 10- , gether with canoes for our baggage* /i - ? J The mouth of the Awatfk is about aquarterof a:j mile broad i and as we advanced, it narrowed very gra*:! dually. . I f We were pudied forward by^fix men, with long ppl«,i ffff ten hours, The fatigue the men had already miet^ gone, and the difficulty of naviealigg l^e^riv^^iv^ivhrd vrqtijd hliye be^r* mach increafedjby Ag da^^i\€f5 j^^ci night, obliged us to give^^aU tfepi^jltf • ■ ■ " ■ -vfl Now transferred with tke Miifeum to Mr Parkinfon. inditis [\e body e, made (Irongly hofebc-L r ftaincd ^ritVibeail rs, abooti I Mi i i» .l|!>l ,: « ',';' -!il fe §■ '' ver isalfo the piirpo to the ino dogs, or c\ lazy, or ot them by t their dext( and forms indeed, no fui in a p depends ; to loofe his unlefs theii they will i Hop tiU thj The do^ dried and I mifer^ble j and never We wer^e t continue t they woul twenty mi} the Isomer; As we d: each of us from tlie ft borious bu confiderabl Tve were w of the hills vided with iledges on i ral miles t< fack to atte in his bqfii minute, to i pany. Oy lu which C wm CAPTAIN COOK'a THIRD VOYAGE. 700 ver isalfo pravided with a crooked ftick, which anfwer^ the purpole both of whip and reins ; as by ftriking it in- to the fnow, he is enabled to moderate the fpeed of tbe dogs, or even to flop them entirely ; and when they ar? lazy, Or otherwife inattentive to nis voice, he chaiHfes them by throwing it at them. Upon thefe occafiong their dexterity in picking it up again is very remarkable^ and forms the principal to loofe his ftick, the .e hundred and twenty mijes. Thefe dogs are in (k^pQ fomewhat like the Pomeraneaa breed, but confiderably larger. As we did aot chufe to tryft to our own ftiili, we had each of us a naan to drive and guide the (ledge, which from tlie ftate the roads were now in, proved a very la- borious bufinefs. For as the thaw had advanced very confiderably in the vallies, through which our road lay^ we were under the neccmty of keeping along the fides of the hills ; and this obligea our guides, who were pro- vided with fnow-fhoes for that purpofe, to fupport the lledges on the lower fides with their fhoulders, tor feve- ral miles together. 1 had a very good humoured Cof- fack to attend me, who was, however, fo very unlkilful in his bufinefs, that we were overturned almoft every minute, to the great entertainment of the reft of the com- pany. Our party confifted, in all, often fledge. That 111 which Captaia Gore was carried, was made of twp 4 U 2 iajlici ffh CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOTAGK. laHied together, and abundantly provided with furs and hear-lkins ; it had ten dogs, yoked four abreaft ; as had alfo fome of thofe that were heavy laden with baggage. when we had proceeded about four miles, it began !o rain ; which, added to the darknefs of the night, threw us all into confulion. It was at laft agreed that we fhould remain where we were till day-light ; and ac- cordingly we came to anchor in the Ibow (for I cannot better exprefs the manner in which the fledges were fe- cured) and wrapping ourfelves up in our furs, waited patjently Tor the morning. About three o'clock we were called onto fet out, our guides being apprehenfive that if we waited longer we might be Itopped by the thaw, and neither be able to proceed nor to return. Af- ter encountering many difRculties, which were princi- pally occalioned by the bad condition of the road, at two in the afternoon we got fafe tp an ofirog, called Natcheekin. ; Natcheekin is a very inconfiderable pfirog^ having on- ly one log-houfe, the refidence of the Toion ; five ifala- gam, and one jourt. We were received here in the ^ame hofpitable manner as at Karatchm, and iilthe af- ternoon we weiit to vifit a remarkable hot fpring whiih is near this village. We faw, at fome diftance, the /Icam rifmg from it, as from a boiling caldron ; and as ive ap- proached, perceived the air had a ftrong fulphureou§ imell. The main fpring forms a bafon, of about three feet in diameter ; befides which, there are a number of •leller fprings, of the fame degree of heat, in the adjacent jgrounas; fo that the whole fpot, to the cxteiit of near an acre, was fo hot, that we could not ftand two minutes in the fame place. The water flowing from thefj Springs is colle£ted in a fmall bathing pond, arid after- ward forms a little rivulet; which, at the diftanceof] ^jout an hundred and fifty yards, falls into the river. The bath they told us had wrought ^reat cures in fevfr.| ral diforders, fuch as rhcumatifms, fwdled and cojitrad*' ed joints, and fcorbutictilcers* - . • ■ ■' ■•• . • Tliel CAFfAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 711 The next morning we embarked on the Bolchoircka in canoes. We found ourfelves greatly impeded by the ihallows ; and though the dream in many places ra» with great rapidity, yet every half mile we had ripplings and moals, over which we were obliged to haul the boats. The country on each fide wae very romantic, but unvaried ; the river running between mountains of the moft cragp:y and barren afped, where there was no- thing to diverfify the fcene, but now and then the iight of a bear, and the flights of wild-fowl. So unintercfting a paflTage leaves me nothing farther to fay, than that this and the following night we flept on the banks of the ri- ver under our marquee^ and fufFered very much from the feverity of the weather and the fnow, which ftill re* mainea on the ground. At day-light, on the 12th, we found we had got clear of the mountains, and were entering a low extenfivc plain, covered with (hrubby trees. About nine in the forenoon we arrived at an ofirog^ called Opatchin, whicl^ is cotnputed to be fifty miles from Natcheekin, and is nearly of the fame fize as Karatchin, We found here a ferjeant, with four Ruffian foldiers, who had been two (lays waiting for our arrival ; and who immediately dil^ patched a light boat to Bolcheretlk with intelligence of our approach. The remainder of our paflage was per- formed with great facility and expedition, the river growing more rapid as we defcended, and lefs obftru^-^ ed by (hoals. As we approached tlie capital, we were forry to ob- ferve, from an appearance of much ftir and buftle, that we were to be received in form. Decent clothes had I been for fome time a fcarce commodity amongft us; and our travelling drefles were made up of a burlelique mixture of European, Indian, and Kamtfchadale fa- fhions. The manner in which we were received by the |Commander, was the moft engaging that could be con- ceived, and increafed my mortihcation at finding, that le had almoft entirely forgot the French language ; fo hat thefatisfadtlppot converling with him wj^s wholly - ton- - 't'A .*J&' CAPTAIN COOK'. THIRD VOTAGE. Sned to Mr Webber, .ho TpoUe .he German hU the fecond in /r^^VrriUms oTthe pUce. They con- Uolebody °f *'=p'"!rS.^8 houFe, where we were duaed us to the Commander s , ^^^^^ received by >'«i»<*y ,t"remred for us. After the firft and other vefrefhments P^pa^ ^^^ ^^^^ d^l,,ed to ac- compUments were oyf^'^f p,,- a of our journey, wuh quafnt the M.-^o; -^ ^ U^^ ,„, f.eib pronfion, taldng fome tepofe.begged he mig ,^,d.houfes, odgings. In our ^^Y ^^out under afms in com- ^here the men ^^J? "J^tnd were afterward brought pUment to Captam G°re '^^"4 ^:^^^ ^he Major gave to a very neat and decent nouie, ^-^ during out us tounderftand ^f J° ^i at *he door ; and,m Ji-v Two fentineU were po"^^. .'. guard. Here flU adjoining, there -^^f'p;?f| ,, f the - the Major took Ins leave, wkuf ^^^fe next day. A foWier, called » f « W^ ^,„„g ^uhom , rsbetweenthatofaferjeantanqco V ^ ^^ ^^^ Sv^-traveller Port, were appomted ^ ^^^^^^,^1 , domeftics ; hefides wtom, the ^^^,^ ^.^^^, andacook,whohado'iers^j. y^^^own „,^, rf dreffing us a mppcr, « " i cookery. . „ ™» received the complimenB '°Early in the '""^^'^^fj Jt sSff, and of the pr.i. ef the Commander, of Capt^ ^^ j i,o„oured us v) chant Fedofitfch, to purchafe fome tobacco for the fail* ors, who had been upward of a twelvemonth withouf this favourite commodity. However this, like al} oufl other tranfadions of the fame kind, came immediatelvl to Shmaleffa 10 ftuJious ad, befideg prepared a kamtfcba- i in takiiii; intry, Bof* iiat extends I long, and N. lide of the town, lOUt a quar« ny fpecies, lajor Behm hat had y€t cows ; and their dogR, jceflity they atter, mak- ,t are not in durins the Dfe, and left n fo exceed- in attack the 1^ '%v..^ tothf M prifcd to inp upwi might be rilbn iint time, the' as many we were dulged in Madame '. conlifting other littU wifties, thi of fervice i profufion I Urain, beir a ihare, bu We clin< afternoon, U8 with an dancing. of this rud< the Ruffiar and was pe fons at a tir the feet feat fun dance V whimfical it it is intend geftures oft the knees b( the tricks ar ^ As our JG time than w mip;ht prove under the n< Honing,, wit We were mc |m, thatifw< Vol, U.-.N' CArtAiN COOK'5 THIRD VOYAGE, V,S to thf Major's knowledge ; and wc were foon after fur* prifed to nnd, in our houfc, four bags of tobacco, weigh- ing upward of a hundred pounds each, which he begged might be prefented in the name of himfelf, and the gar- rlfon under his command, to our failors. At the fame time, they had fent us twenty loaves of line fugar, and as many pounds of tea, being articles they underllood we were \n great want of, which they begged to be in- dulged in prefenting to the oflicers. Along with thefe, Madame Behm had alfo fent aprefent for Captain Gierke^ conlifting of frelh butter, honey, ligs, rice, and fome other little tHings of the fame kind, attended with many wiihes, that in his infirm (late of health, they might be of fervice to him. It was in vain we tried to oppofe this profufion of bounty, which I was really anxious to re- Urain, being convinced that they were giving away, not a ihare, but almoft the whole (lock of the garrifon. We dined this day with Captain Shmalen, and in the afternoon, in order to vary our amufcments, he treated us with an exhibition of the RufTian and Kamtfchadale dancing. No dclbription can convey an adequate idea of this rude and uncouth entertainment. The figure of the Ruffian dance was much like tbofe of our hornpipes^ and was performed either fmgle, or by two or four per-^ fons at a time. Their fleps were fhort and quick, with the feet fcarce raifed from the ground. But if the Ru^* iijn dance was ridiculous, the Kamtibhadale was the mofl whimfical idea that ever entered into any people's heads* It is intended to reprefent the aukward and clumfey geftures of the bear. The body was always bowed, and the knses bent, whilft the arms were ufed in imitating the tricks and attitudes of that animal. As our journey to Bolcheretfk had taken up more time than we expefted, and were tojd that our return might prove flill more difiicult and tedious, we were under the neceffity of acquainting the Commander thi$ ♦'vening, with our intention of fetting out the next day. We were mofl agreeably furprifed, when the Major told I us, that if we could flay one day longer, he would ac Vol, II— N** 44. 4 X company m i 71^ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE* company us ; as he fhoiild feel great p^afure la return*, ing with us to Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, that he might himfeif be a wirnels of every thing done for us, that it was in their power to do. In ret urn for the few trifles I had given to the children of Major Behm, I was next morning, the 15'h, pre* fented by his little boy, with a mott magnihccnt KamiC. ehadale drefs, which (hall be delcrtbed in its proper place. It was ot the kind worn by the principal Toions of the country, on ceremonious cccafions ; and, as I was afterward told by Fedolitfch, could nit hav; been pur- chaied for one hundred and twenty roubles. At the fame time I had a prefent from his daughter, of a handfome fable muff. We afterwards dined with the Commaftderj who, ia Order to let us lee as much of the manners of the inha- bitants, and of the caltoms of the country, as our time iivould permit, invited the whole of the better fort of peo- ple in the village to his houlie this evening. All the women appeared very fplendidly drefled, after the Kamtf- chadale fathion. The whole wa« like fbme enchanted fcene in the midft of the wildeft and moll dreary coun- try in the world. Our entertainment again conliiled of dancing and finging. The next moriiing, being fixed for our departure, we retired early to our lodgings, where the firft things we faw were three travelling drefTes, made after the fafliioa of the country, which the Major had pro pided tor us. Indeed, what with his liberal prefents, atxd the kindn;'^ of Captain ShmalefF, and many other individuals, who aik begged to throw in their mite, together with the am- rle ftock of provifions he had lent us for our journey, we had am?.*Ted no inconfiderable load of baggage. Early in the morning, every thing being ready for our departure, we were invited to call on Madame Bchm, in our way to the boats, and take our leave of her ; and pur minds were imprelFed with feudmentsof the warni-| ieft gratitude, fur the attentive, bei:* volent, and generous] treatment we had met with at Bokhefetfk, on leaving our lof! were di the tow and, as i of the I Major t taking Ic ed dowr drums ai Ibme rei down to When w cheers, w were dou our frien( another cl During pleafed w and their the difFere could not 'tUi'. <^APTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 717 our Ic op- portunity not to be negledted ; and accordmgly Capt. Clerke acquainted him, that he would take the liberty of fending by him fome papers relating to our voyage, io be delivered to our AmbaiTadQr at the RuiEan Cfourr. Our the ^ they that Capt; toget, uiid r count Du tertair ! we we faluted t'efire, lAwatfi Shori |hls nob] the hig] i'alue of clufive 1 fboth Liticn ; id c©l • to iii'U iOt paf« ; m the 1 of i^^e L by ilic lat the\r f fpirvts acritice ] rke and the very n to ac- h other ere at- IfKamtC. Petetf- ritb any hy Capt. \t liberty voyage, ^a Court. Out CAPTAIN COOK'i THIRD VOYAGE, -719 Our firrt intentions were to fend only a fmall journal of our proceedings; but afterward, Capt. Gierke being perfuaded that the whole account of our difcoveries might fafely be trufted vo a perfon who had given iuch tlriKing proofs both of his public and private virtues, and conndering that we had a stry^ hazardous part of the voyage iiill to undertake, determined to fend by him the whole of the journal of ouf late Coinmander, with that part of his own which completed the period from Captain Cook's death till our arrival at Kamtfcha'ka ; together with a chart of all our difcoveries. Mr Bayly uud rayfelf thought it alfo proper to fend a general ac- count of our proceedings to the Board of Longitude. During the three following days, the Major was en- tertained alternately in the two fhips in the beit manner we were able. On the 25th he took his leave, and waf faluted with thirteen guns j and the failors, at their own tjefire, gave him three cheers. The next morning Mi? V-bber and myfelf attended liim a few miles up the Awatfka river. Short as our acquaintance had been with Major P ihm, his noble and difmterefted condu£t had infpired us with he higheft refpe"T^r • y^h they yielded ra I iTowance of brandy. ^ ^^^^^ had been pro.! • 'The next day,/ f-^^lSfcy thefetieant, waskiM :- ^ cured for the fliip s -^Craew^fot their Sunday s A«A ftnce our departure from the Cape ^^^ ^ y^ Kt^ber »776^,^Pf'f5 in the afternoon, with an extern j. v^ ' ^^^ great dil- ' » . 1 *«.,. t!\an the comn>on gull, ■ . ThU W'dwV^h;she fmjilleft lb. 256 -, Thcfe animal? afForded us a few excellent meals of frefli meat, The flefh had indeed a ftrong fifliy tafte. but was in every refpe^ infinitely fuperior to that of the fea-horfe; which, neverthelefs, our people were [again perfuaded, without much difficulty, to prefer to [iheir faked provifions. At eight in the morning of the 21ft, the wind frefh- Icning, md the fojg clearing away, we faw the Ameri- can coaft to the 0. E. at the diftance of eight or ten llef^gues, and hauled in for it ; but were flopped agaiii |by the ice, and obliged to bear away to the weilward ^loQgiheedgeofit. 4Y2 Thus ;j;'t 1*i 1" ! I 'i .■ I' i, i 726 CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. Thus a connedcd folid field of ice rendering every effort wc could make to a nearer approach to tne land fruitkfs, ai.d icining, as we judged to it, we took a lall farcwel of l N. E. pafTage to Old England. I (liall beg leave to give, in Captain Gierke's own words, the rcaibn of this his Inial determination, as well as of his future plans ; and this rhc rather as it is the laft tranfadlion his health permitted him to write down. ** It is now rmpoflible to proceed the leaft farther to ** the northward upon this coaft (America); and it is •* equally, as improbahle that this amazing mafsofice ** fliould be difiolved by the few remainmg fummer- ••' weeks which will terminate this feafon ; but it will " continue, it is to be believed, as it now is, an infur- " mountable barrier to every attempt we can pofTibly " make. I therefore think it the beft ftep that can be *' taken, for the good of the fervice, to trace the fea over " to the Afiatic coaft, and to try if I can find any open- •* ing that will admi^ me farther N. if not, to fee w^ * " more i^ to be done upon that coaft, where I hope " cannot much flatter myfelf, to meet with better lUc- " cefs ; for the fea is now fo choked with ice, that a " pafTage I fear is totally out of the queftion." Captain Gierke having determined, for the reafons iuft afligned, to give up all farther attempts on the coair of America, and fo make his laft i^fForts m feafch of a paf- -fage on the coaft of the oppofite continent, we cpnti- nued, during the afternoon of the 21ft of July, to fteer to the ^V. N. W. through much lopfe ice. At ten at night, difcovering the main body of it through the fog, right ahead, and almoft clofe to us, and being unwilling to take a foutherly courfe, fo long as we could poffibly avoid it, we hauled ouj* wind, which was ^afterly, and fiood to the rorthward ; but, in an hour after, the wea- ther clearing up, and finding ourlelves furroun(:le(l by a compai^ field of ice on every fide, except to the S. S. W. we tacked and ftood on in that diredlion in order to get clear of it. Ii^the morning of the 23d,. the clear water, in whici ai af w th ed fcv ' at( fo Hoi (he able fea 1 upoi mov efcaj: way leew; unfaf tinge fails, i in I about from creafir gloom on us, ''omini Our ai v»^hen after, evangel fingall were fo great d( come v( ihe fdl On n ith hi very land ilall I beg eaion ut\»re Dfthis her to id it is of ice mmer- it will , infur- )oflibly : can be fea over y open- ee w <'/u-- ope Iter i'ac !, that a in >/vbicii CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 727 we continued to ftand to and fro, did not exceed a mile and an half, and was every inllant leflening. At length, after ufing our utmoft endeavours to clear the loofe ice, we were driven to the neccflity of forcing a pallage to the fouthward, which, at half pad feven, we accomplilh- ed, but not without fubjedting the fliip to fome very fcvere fhocks. The Difcovery was lefs luccetsfu). For, at eleven, when they had nigh got clear out, fhe became To entangled by feveral large pieces that her way was flopped, and irnmediately dropping bodily to leeward, Ihe fell, broadfide forcmoft on the edge of a. coniider*- able body of ice ; and having at the fame time an open fea to wmdward, the furf caufed her to ft rike violently upon it. This mafs at length either fo far broke, or moved, as to fet them at liberty to make another trial to efcape; but, unfortunately, before the fliip gathered* way enough to be under command, fhe again fell to leeward on another fragment ; and the iwell making it unfafe to lie to windward, and finding no chance of get- ting clear, they puflicd into a fmall opening, furled their fails, and made raft with ice hooks. In this dangerous fituation we faw them at noon, about three miles from us, bearing N. W. a frefh gale from the S. E. driving more ice to the N. W. and in- creafmg the body that lay^ between us. To add to the gloomy apprehenfions which began to force themfelves on us, at half paft four in the afternoon, the weather be^ f oming thick and hazy, we loft fight of the Difcovery; Qur apprehenfions for her fafety did notceafe till nine, when we iieard her guns in anfwer to ours ; and foon after, being hailed by her, were informed that, upon the change of wind, the ice began to feparate ; and that fet- ting all their fails, they forced a pafl'age through it. We were forry to find that the Difcovery had rubbed off a. great deal of the fheathing from the bows, and was bl?- come very leaky from the ftrokes (he had received wheit [fhe fell upon the edge of the ice. On the 24th, we had frefh breezes from the S. W. li,' 1 i n\h hazy weather, and kept i unking to the iS. E. till 4^ eleven imm t»« CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOTAOE. dev^n in the forenoon, when a large body of loofe ice, Extending from N. N. h, round by the E. to S. S. E. «nd to which (though the weather was tolerably clear) we could fee no end, again obflruded our courfe. At four in the afternoon it became calm, and we hoifted out the boats in purfuit of the fea-horfes, which were in pro^ digious herds on evv^ry fide of us. We killed ten of them, which were as many as we could make ufe of for ^eating, or for converting into lamp oil. Aa it was now neceffcry to come fo fome determina- tion with rer^^eifl to the courfe we were next to jfleer, CaptMn Clcrlje fent a boat with the carpenters on board > .he Difcovery, to inquire into the particulars of the da- ioage flie had fuftained. They returned in the evening with -the report that the damages they had received •would require three weeks to repair. Thus, finding a f^.r:her advance to the northward, as well as a nearer approach tp either continent, obftruded by a fea blocked up with ice, vve judged it both injurious ^o the fervice, as well as fr uitlefs with Telpe£i to the dc- iign of our voyage, to make any farther attempts toward a pafTage. Tnis, added to the reprefentatipns of Capt, Gore, deter *nined Capt, Qerke to fail for Awat&a bay^ to repair our damages there ; and, before the winter ih^^i^i fct in, to explore -the coaft of Japan. I will not endeavour to coiaceal the joy that brighten^' cd the countenances of every individual, as foon as Captain Gierke's refolutions were made known* Wc were all heartily lick of a navigation full of danger, and in. which the uttnoft perfeverance had nqt been repaid .jwith the fmalleft probability of fuccefs, We therdfore turned our races home, after an abfence of tliree yeare , with a delight and fatisfa^ion which, notwithftanding the tedious voyage we had dill to make, and the Im- xnenfe diftance we had to run, were as freely entertain^ ed, and perhaps as fully enjoyed, as if we had ))een al On I courfe Was fi^e in the tain on the Mountain, .had light ai IPS day, an rortyfathotr I On the 2 Mnorning, cl< the thifty-ei CAPTAIN COOK'S UttRD VOYAGE. 74^ land in fight till feven in the evening of the 30th ; from which time, to the 17th of Auguft, nothing interefting crciitred* Captain Gierke Was now no longer able to get out (if his bed ; he therefdre defircd that the officers would re^ ceive their orders from me, and directed that we (hould proceed with all fpeed to Awatfka bay. The wind con* tinning wefterly, we ftdod on to the S. till early on the morning of the igth, when, after a few hours rain, it blew from the eaftward, and frelhencd to a ftrong gale^ We accordmgly made the mod of it, while it lafted, by flanding to the weftward linder all the fail we could car*- ry. On, the 20th, the wind fhifting to the S. W, out courfe was to the \\/. N. W. On the 4 ift» at half paft five in the morning, -^refaw a very high peaked moun« tain on the coaft of Kamtfchatka^ called Cheepoonfkoi Mountain, twenty-five or thirty leagues diftant. V/a had light airs the remair \ng part of this and the follow* ing day, and got no foundings with one hundred and fort}'' fathoms of line* ^ On the ^2d of Auguft J 779, at nine o'clock in the morning, departed this life Captain Charles Clerke, in the thirty-eighth year of his age. He died of a con-* iuftiption, which had evidendy commenced before he left England, and of which he had lingered during the !n^ ■\i'hole voyage. His vefy jgradlial decay had long made as ■him a melancholy objea to his friends ; yet the equa* ^c Bnimity with which he bore it, the conftant flow of good ind ^fpirits, which continued to the lall hour, and a cheerful efignation to his fate, afforded them fome confolaiion* fore Ht was impoflible not to feel a more than con* m on de-* [arSj ftree of comnaffion for a perfon whofe whole life had ling Beeti a Continued fcene of thofe difficulties and hardfliips [im- lo which a feaman's occupation is fubjedl, and unaer lain-! Hjhich he at laft funk. He was brought up to the Navy alf Bom his earlieft youth, and had been in ieveral adiong ring the war Which began in 1756, pafticularly iti, L we Bat between the Bellona and Courageaux, where, being jdnoStloned in the mizen-topj he was carried overboanl- Uui ■ with CAPTMNCOOa-. THIRD VOtAG». '^° -^ , v.n no without having receiv- S m the f ?KSe dSing the expedition he Promotion which took Pl|g''^-„i' voyage round the ?ewrned a We^tenant. His th^^^^^^^^^^ «MldwasintheRefolution,oiv< ^^ ^ S Second L«"«"^°, L to -Se rank of Mafter and grobe£^ o-^^VoKd ty theS of theV %a?^rbShtrfeaIy mentioned, to the to W that, during the ^ort^*^ and anxipm '^nde? his d-eaion. h I S„t the time thejr.ncipd ^"iStvoS upon !«-. S'lJent^^^^^^^^ *°^^v and was eVery ^aV unequal to e ^^^ JtlS'ofa high no«hjn^di«^^ JSd ^ Xvity of his mind had m iw ^ v ^^^ ^ jeUymg !;v ofhis body : and though he ^^ ^^ ^^ wl return to a warmer chmate, et clreful Sy chance that remained for ^^e r ^^ ^ °nd jealous to the If^^.f^^f iudgment to the pre.iu&ce fimation ftiould never bias nW|fg„ch of a paffagetil SSrvice,he pe Jverf i^he fca ^^ ^ it V.3. thermion 2;U any farther attempts wouU vras »>^P?5Sefsbut dangerous." .„Gore wtl n f2 Mr WUumfon to acq^^^^^^^^^^^ J ,y^ death of Captam Ci/rl^^, ana r ^^ ^ ,j £, ordering me to ^^ f «!\Sin clf= of a fepanl Peter and St/Auu, . CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 73 » wh^h lafted throneh the forenoon of the 23d. At noon,afre(h breeze fringing up from the eaftward, we ftood in for the entrance of Awaiika bay ; and, at (ix ia the evening, ,faw it bearing W N. W. half W. diftant five leagues. At nine next morning we weighed, and turned up the bay with light airs, and the boats Aill a- head till one ; when, by the help of a fre(h breeze, we anchored before three in th? afternoon, in the harbour of St Peter and St Paul, with our enfign half ftafFup, on account of our carrying the body of our late Captain ; and were foon after followed by the Difcovery.^ We liad no fooner anchorea, than our old friend the ferjeant, who was ilill the commander of the place, came on board with a prefent of berries, intended for our pooc deceafed Captain. He was exceedingly alFefted whea we told him of his death, and (hewed him the cofHn that contained bin bod y. He iignified his intentions of fend- ing off an estpreil^ to the Commanjderat Bolcheretfk, to acquaint him wifih our arrival, and Capt. Gore, availed hirafeif of that occafion of writing him a letter, in which he requefted ^hat fixteen head of black cattle might be fent with all pc^flible expedition. The erfiption of the volcano, which was fo violent when we failed out of the bay, we found had done no damage here, notwithdanding (lones ul fallen at thf^ ojlrog, of the fize of a goofe's egg. In the morning of the 25th, Captain Gore made out the new commiflions in confequence of Captain Gierke's death; appointing himfelf to the command of the Re- folution, and me to the command of the Dif9overy ; and Mr Lanyan, Mailer's Mate of the Refolution, who had ferved in that capacity on board the Adventure in the former voyage, was promoted to the vacant Lieute- nancy. Th^fe promotions produced feveral other ar- rangements of courfe. The Difcovery, as has been mentioned, had fuffered great damage from the ice ; Captain Gore therefore fent the carpenters of the Refolutioii to aflift our own in re- pairing her. A teat was next eie^ed, for the accom- Vol. II.--N<^ 44. 4 Z modaticx^ V The farther ^e P«*!®yS^ JwAved ft«e iece. The next day he was entertained on board the Gifco- y&Y ; and on the 25th he tcok leave of us to return to fioicheretQc. lie could not t]te prev^ed on to lengthen hisvHit. • The neiGt day I fet on foot another hunting pHirty, ^ nd {mt myfelf undor the dkedion of the clerk of the partih, who was a celebrated beaivhunter* We arrived by fun- iet at the fide of one of the (ai^er lajces^ The next llep liiis ' . yfa« was to we ^er grais ai the pJea parts ro gratified ieemed t ^y hid. Ijffht; an yards, thi rime. T and made roaring:, n of all three cJ to fom^ nued to m; Kamtfchad cd> they th< for the pre and the nig] turned horn % till mor blace to wi female, and J Astheaci Jto give the [thisfportis, [a few more [better able tt When the] -fie bears, w f rft ftep is ti ire the frelh, alriTent, at m by, or fjie place o] Meters next hir firelockj "-^ CAPTAfN COOK't THIRD VOTAOE. 73T was to conceal ourfelvts aimuch as poflible; and this w6^ere able to do Tery ef&dhially among fome long graia and brufii^wood that grew doTe to iht watex^ edge. We had not lain long in ambufh before we had die pleaiute to hear the growlings of beats in difitrent parts round about us; and our expedations were foon {^ratiiied by the fight of one of thexn in the water, wh}dt leemed to be fwinvming dire€Hy to the place where wt lay hid. The moon aC this time gav^a confiderable Hght; and when the aiotniat had advanced about fifteeit yardfrj three of us fired at it pretty nearly at the fame time. The beaft xmmediately turned (hort on one fide, and made a noife which could not properly be cailee»n '°„"*, the drcumftances of the thev kneel or >« d°T'°' ^*.,, fogars by their fide, wiut S«r require ; »«VS&« <=''i^flj "^w'" "i for their game. TXheiTmark; forif thebear benot order to aake ^"1^ ^J^Sby the firft Ihot, the con- wnderea incapable of purluoDy^.^^^, ^^ fcquences arc "^f JXncTihe noife and fmoke iffue Wrd the place from whenM great fury. It wimpof- and atwcte his advwfariea wttn g .^ fe^^^^^ fiblefor *emto reload, ^R ^^ he « fir^«l titan twelve o**^""^,!^*., they immediately put them- fothat,ifhedoesnotfa», tney j , fclves in »,I^ft"« :°, "Send* on tW giving him a IlSrpS^!?S^^«S-^^^^^ beTrs firllcbme fo'^f f^^g fheir pawa through the tally afferted here, on ^"'^^^f ^ happens to befevere, winter; ""^ cfpe^f,^« S '^^On theTo'n'trary, if *e dao-j E^he^ui^ut leave her fide. cvet. after Ihe^^ m^ CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOTAGB. 139 been dead a longtime ; but continue alxjiit her, ftew*- ing, by a Tariety of aiFedling adiions and gtftures, marks of the dec{)eft afili<5llon, and thto become an eafy prey to the humcrp. Ilie Kamtfchadales very thankfully acknowledge their t UigiUionR to the bears for what iirtle advancement they have hitherto made, either in the fciences or polite arts; They confefs thatthty owe to them all their (kill both in phyfic and iurgery ; that by remarking, with what herbs thefe animals rub the wiounds they have received, and what they have recourfe to wlien fick and languid, tJhey have become acquamced whh moft of the fimples m\3it among them, either in the way of internal medicine^ x:)r external appiication ; they acknowledge .the bears lifce^ wife for tneir dancing mafters. Indeed theevidence of one'« fenfes puts this out of difpute ; forthebear-danc6 ot the Kamtfchadales is an exadt counterpart of.cvery attitude and ^eilure peculiar to this animal, through its various functions ; and this is the foundation and.grouiid work of all their other dances, and what they value thcm- felves moft upon. No occurrence worth mentioning took place till the ^oth, when Captain Gore went to Paratounca to put up in the church there an-efcutcheon, prepared by Mr Web** ber, with an infcription upon it, fetting forth Captaia Gierke's age and rank, and the objed ofthe expedition in which he was engaged at the time of his (ieceafe. W.e alfo affixed to the tree, under which he was buried, a board, with an infcription upon it to the fame efFe£t. On the 2d of Odlober both (hips warped out ofthe har- bour, the day before the cattle arrived from Verchnei ; I and that the men might receive the full benefit of this ca- jpital and much-longed for fupply, by con fuming it frelh, "".aptain Gore -came to a determination of ftaying five |or fix days longer. ' Nor was this time .idly employed. he boats, pumps, ((ails, and rigging, of both (liips, there- )y received an additioiwl repair. And Captain Gore, [paring me fome molafTes, and the ufe ofthe Refolution*s )pper, I was enabled to bVew a fortnight's beer for the Val. 11.— N«? 45. ^ 5 A crew, ,^ ' CAPTAIN COOK. THIRD VOYAGE. offttongfptuce cffence. J'^Xof fp-,Aw, except a more acceptable, a o«Wt ca ^^^ y^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^,, fmall quantity left m reiervc ""oftSr^ve received, from Bolcherctflc, a frcQi fuSv of tk'fugar, and tobacco. ^^^oored; butwhilftwewete, vrijgreat drihcu ^^^ ^^ anchor, I «»• '"''^^^u' hew" !»» **='""*'* r*^**" had left tt'«=l''»*'''VfftStbcfetj«nttofendpat. fchadale woman- i^S^J^', aireaions, in fearch of him, ti« of foldiers, in d>ff«ent direttio^ ' ,^ j^^^^^ „f whilftfome of ourfaJots wenttoawe ^^^ , his in the neigbbourhood^wj^ th^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^, ^ brought him onboard, wen place. . , . ;w„ameof apeninfulafituatedon ^ Kjimtfchatka 18 the name 01^ P ^^ ^^g.^ the eaftem coaft of ^J^'^X X country of the K^ . It is bounded °V^bv the N. pacific ocean •, and to riacks ; totheS. andE.by the ^^^^j^ of high moun- the W. by *e fca pf OkotiK. country, from N. Okotlk. ., f, Up foil from what I faw, of Its ye- If I may iudge of he fo U iro . _^ ronouncng getableproauaiom,Ifcouldr^t ^^^^^ ^ . ft barren in \H! 'Newfoundland, than to anv othetl oponiuii V n"o»ch it-is P^°l'^\*SSng of Ma^'77» » thisco«nt^-as.n J^b^^^^U faow>| when the v;hole face ot "was ^^^^ . £ ^^ i^7t^lS£Sa Sr-d all fom of vcgeu» CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 741 feemcd to be in the utmoft (late of perfection ; but, at the beginning of Odober, the tops of the hills were again covered with new fallen fnow, the wind continuing weftcrly. I do not remember that we had either thunder or liq;ht- ning during our ftay, excepting on the eruption or the volcano ; and, from the account of the inhabitants, they art' very feldom troubled with ftorm^' of this kind, and never but in a flight degree. M^or Behm told us that the cold and inclemency of the winter of 1 779 was fuch, that for feveral weeks all intercourfe between the inha- bitants was entirely flopped, every one being afraid to ftir even from one houfe to another, for fear of being froP bitten. To avoid the hurricanes, and ferve winters, they have fubterraneous habitations. This peninfula abounds in volcanos^ of which only three have, for fome dme paft, been fubjedt to eruptions. We have already mentioned that which is fituated in the neighbourhood of Awatfka. Befides this there are others not lefs remarkable, according to the account given uf them by Krafcheninicoff. 1 iie volcano of Tolbatchick is fituated on a neck of ground between the river of Kamfchatka and Tolbat- chick. The mountain, from the fummit of which the I eruptions proceeded, is of a confiderable height, and j terminates in pointed rocks. In the beginning of the year 1739, there ifTued from it a whirlwind of flames^ Iwhich reduced to afhes tiie forefls of the neighbouring Imountains. This was fucceeded by a clou.l of fmoke^ i^hich fpread over arid darkened the whole r.ountry, till |t was diflipated by a (he wer of cinders that covered the j[round to the diflance of thirty miles. Mr Krafchenini- [off, who was at this time on a journey from Eolchoire- to the Kamtfchatka ojirog^ at no great diftance from ^e mountain, relates that the eruption was preceded by alarming found in the woods, which he thought the re-runner of fome dreadful ftorm or hurricane, till fee fhocks of an earthquake, at about a minuted interval pi convinecd him Ot its real caufe ; but that he was 5 A 2 hindered' Ml h lA-i «=^*' . ,.„, nearer the mountain, by *t c iu k»rk • the ttad or a awai " ;„i.a,bttant8. The ^^^'J^^o a great variety of»f«*:''y.Sreat abundance, , l^'*''arinkwthoutfflwtun:,orany P I *7'^W buffomewhat P«;g^f ^eir domeftic ai, ?£aC'catc^--^l^°'^^^^^^^ ,f berries-, bluJ, *^'S country produces g«»^^^^'g erow-bcrrics, aul J£, parm''ge-bcnf : ;Ss galh^r tproped Wackberr.es. ^wivnp^them irv thick J/"''.;'"?"!^ f'*^' •vis are ufed as fauce to ^f^^^^ieJUonablJ Sr r^lS W of food they .re nac, 1 Salient oo^'-Errfwholefome "'^'^^M^s'm f CAPTAIK COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. Fica, chervil, garlic, and onions. Upon ferae few patches of ground in the vallied we found excellent tar- ij08^ and turnifJ-fadilhes. '*i s There is a vulgar and well-known plant, which, as it contributes Co their fubfiftence, muft not be palled over in filence. This is the nettle, which, as the country produces neither hemp nor flax, iupplies the materials^ of which are made their fi(hing-nets. For this purpofe they cut it down in Auguft ; and, after hanging it up in bundles in the fhade, under their balagam\ the remain- der of the fummer, treat it like hemp. They then fpin it into thread with their fingers, and twift it round a fpindle ; after which they twine feveral threads toge- thefy according to the different purpoles for which it may be defigned. The real riches of this country muft always confrft in the number of wild animals it produces; and no labour can ever be turned to fo good account as what is em- ployed upon their furrieries. Their animals are the common fox ; the ftoat, or ermine ; the zibeline^ or fable ; the yhtis^ or ardic fox ; the varying hare ; the moun- tain rat-, or eaflefs marmot ; the weafel ; the glutton or wolverene ; the argali^ or wild (beep ; rein-deer ; bears ; wolves ; dogs. The fox is the moft general objed of the chace ; and they are found in great numbers, and of variety of co- lours. The nooft common is the fame in fpecies with the European ; but Ibme are of a dark cheinur ; fome black ; others of a ftone colour ; and there were a few? quite white. Their fur is exceedingly thick and fine, and of a quality much fuperior to thofe of Siberia or America. A variety of artifices are made ufeot by the hungers to catch this animaK Trjvps of different forts,' fome calculated to fall upon them, others to catch them' by the feet, others by the head, are amongft the moft common; to which may be added feveral ios-J^ioua contrivances for taking them in nets. The fables of Kamtfchatkaare faid to be confiderably larger than thofe of Siberia^ and their fur much thicker and ^* I I y •'^■>„-~ 744 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. and brighter. The apparatus of the fable hunters con- lifts of a rifle barrel gun, of an exceeding fmall bore, a net, and a few l>ricks ; with the firft they (hoot ihem when they fee them on the trees ; the net is to furround the hollow trees in which, when purfued, thty take re- fuge ; and the bricks are heated, and put into the cavi- ties, in order to fmoke them out. The mountain-rat, or earlcfs marmot, is a beautiful little animal, confiderahly fmaller than a fquirrel ; and, like it, feeds upon roots, berries, the cedar apple, &c, which it eats fitting upon its hind-legs, and holding them up to its mouth with the paws. Its Ikin is much valued by the Kamtfchadales, is both warm and light, and of a bnght fhining colour, forming, like the plumage of fome birds, various odours when viewed in different lights. The ftoat, or ermine^ is here held in no eftimation, andj confequently, never engages the attention of the hun- ters, becaufe, as I have heard, its fur is of aUvOrdinary kind. I faw many of thefe litde animals running about ; and we bought feveral of their fkinsj which were of a bad white, and of a dirty yellow about the belly* The , common weafel is alfo negleded, and for the fame reafon. On the contrary, the fkin of the glutton, or wolverene^ is here in the highefl: repute ; infomuch that a Kamt- fchadale looks upon himfelfs^s moft richly attired, whr i a fmall quantity of this fur is feen upon him. The w.; men adorn their hair with its pats, which are white, and confidered as an ei^traordinary piece of finery; and they have a fuperftitious opinion, that the angels are clad with the fkins of thofe animals. It is faid that this creature is eafily tamed, and taught ^ number of plcafanc tricl^.f Having f KrafchcnlnicofT relates, tliat this fmall animal frequently de-f ftroys dstff," and the^vild mountain iheep, in the following way; they fcattcr at the bottom of the trees bark and mofs, which thoft: animah are fond of ; and whilll they are picking it up drop fud- denly Upon them, and, fafleping behind dvihead^ fuck out. ^ir Ha^ own k\ ofkilijj faw we bie in t Thei exceller comfort their do fat, is cc The\ feafon tl panics, i There parts of of Awati Should m carriage, i to the n( feem full) in »heir pi The <7rj lieve unkr nia,) is he but in gaii f^e goat. I weighing, ^"rty pouf Thefe ere: «nly the . tbeir way , aftoniQiin^ and imall bears. The] Inoofe, withj] Ijeavouriiig tJ iometinies by] CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 74? Having already had occafion to fpeak as fully as my own knovv ledge enables me of the bears, and the method of killing them, I fhall only here obferve, that all thofe I faw were of a dun brown colour; they are feldom yifi- ble in the winter months.* Their {kins are exceedingly ufeful. They make both excellent warm mattreiTes, and coverings for their beds ; comfortable bonnets and gloves, and good collars for their dog's harnefs. Their flefh, and particularly the fat, is confidered as very delicious. The wolves are only feen in the winter ; at which feafon they prowl about, as I was told, in large com- panies, in fearch of prey. There are rein-deer, both wild and tame, in feveral parts of the peninfula, but none in the neighbourhood of Awatfka. It is fomewhat; fmgular that this nation Ihould never have ufed the rein-deer for the purpofes of carriage, in the fame manner as their neighbours, both to the north and the eaftward. Their dogs, indeed, feem fully fufficient for ail the demands of the natives in ♦heir prefent (late. The argali^ or wild mountain-fheep, an animal I be- lieve unknown in Europe (except in Corfica and Sardi- nia,) is here in great plenty. Its Hiin is like the deer's, but in gait, and general appearance, it partakes more of the goat. It has two large twifled horns, ibmetimes weighing, when at a full growth, from tweioty-five to thirty pounds, which, in running, it refts upon its back. Thefe creatures are exceedingly nimble and fwift, haunt only the moft craggy and mountainous parts, and make their way among the fteepeft rocks with an agility that i» aftonilhing. T4ie natives work their horns imo fpoons, and Imall cups and platters ; and have frcqueatly one of ; * The Korlacks makeufc of a very fimple method of catching bears. They fupfeno, between the forks of a tree, a running Inoofe, within which they laften a bait, which the animal en- jdcavouring to pull away, is caught fometimes by the neck, and ibmetimes by the legs. 74vidence hath fupplied the inhabitants of this peninfula ; who, in general, muft never expe4l to draw any confiderable part of their fuAenance eitheir from grain or cattle. In fhort, fifh m^ay with much greater juftice be here called the ftaff of life, than bread IS in other countries $ fmce it appears that neitht&r the inhabitants, nor the only domeftic animal they have, lht» do{?, could exift without it. . ;> Whales are frequently feen, both in the fea of Okotifc^ and on the fide ot the eaftern ocean : and, when caught^ are turned to a variety of ufes. Of the fkin they make? the foks of their (hoes, and (Iraps and thongs for variousr other purpofes. The flefh they eat, and the fat is care^ fully ftored both for kitchen ufe and for their lambs. The whifkers art found to be the heft materials for few-; ing together the feams of their canoes ; they likewife make nets of them for the larger kind of fifh ; and with the under jaw-bones their (ledges are fhcd. They alfo work the bones into knives ; and formerly the chaina^ with which their dogs are tied, were made of that ma- VoLH.— N*' 45. 5 B teriaL 74« CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. terial, though at prefent iron ones are generally ufecL The inteftines they clean, then blow and drv like blad- ders, and it is in thefe their oil and greaie is ilored ; and of the nerves and veins, which are both (Irong, and flip readily, they make excellent fnares ; fo that there is no part of the whale which here does not find its ufe. Notwithftandin^ they have abundance of flat-tifh, cod, and herring, it is on the falmon hfliery alone that the KAmtfchadales depend for their winter provffiong^ Of thefe, it is faid by naturalifls, there are to be found on this coafl all the different fpecies that are known to exifi, and which the natives formerly charadterifed by the dif* ferent months in which they afcend the rivers. Their length is generally about three feet and a half; they are very deep in proportion, and their average weight is from thirty to forty pounds. The tail is not forked, but if raight. The back is of a dark blue, fpotted with black ; in other refpedls they are much like our common fal- mon. They afcend the river with extraordinary velo- city, infomuch that the water is fenfibly agitated by their motion ; and the Kamtfchadales, who are always on the Watch for them about the time they are expeded, judge of their approach by this circumflance, and immediately let drop their nets before them. The manner in which they draw their nets within the bay of Awatfka, is as follows: They tie one end of the net to a large flone at the water's edge ; they then pu(h off in a canoe about twenty yards in a right line, dropping their net as they advance, after which they turn and run out the remainder of the net in a line pa- rallel to the Ihore ; in this pofition they wait, concealing themfelves very carefully in the boar, and keepings fharp look-out for the fifh, which always dired their courie clofe in with the (hor , and whole approach is announced by a rippling in the water, till they find that the fhoal has advanced beyond the boat, when they (hoot the canoe to (hore in a dired line, and never fail of in- clofing, their prey. The lakes, that have a communication with the Cciy which CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 749 which was the caf^ with all thofe that I faw, ahound with fifhthat have very much the refemblanceof fmalL falroon, and are from four to fix pounds weight. I could not underftand that the inhabitants thought it worth their while to fifli for them. As thefe lakes are not deep, they become an eafy prey to the bears and dogs during the fummer ; and, if I might judge ft'om the quantity of bones to be feen upon the banks, they de- vour vafl numbers of them. The Riiffian government, eftablifhed over this coun- try is mild and equitable, coniidered as a military one, in a very high degree. The natives are permitted to cluife their own magiftrates from among themfelves, ia the way, and with the fame powers, they had ever beea ufed. One of thefe, under the title ot Toion^ prefides over each o/irog ; is the referee in all differences ; im- poi'es fines, and infills punishments for all crimes and mifdemeanors ; referring to the governor of Kamtfchat- ka fuch only as he does not chufe, froni their intricacy or heinoufnefs, to decide upon himfelf. The Toion has likewife the appointment of a civil officer, called a Cor- poral, who aflids hiiti in the execution of his office, and in his abfence adts as his deputy. By an edi» f ^JvT ftV to the northward ; the land, ftapdmg ^ong Ae^^ ^^ „, before the and another m t^e °ffinB' .^P^f ^eing to a country fo ttd. ObjeasofanykmOeU^ng^^^^ famous, and yetfohtt)e^™«'Jl » ^ cutiofity, and ac^ ceived,muft have exctfed a general ^^^. ^^ 'ccrdingly every o«l^^« tte v^ffel^o wind^arda^ inftant, to gaze at vftem. ns ^^^ . ^^^^ ^^ mroached us, *^* *«Xala?m A^^ hy the appear W fearing that v»e A^o^^rf ^jps to, and Ihe paffed ahe»4 a DUrluit, we brought the impa , ,j^ jj ^^ K at the diftaoce of a^^ut hatt » ^.^^^ ^^^^ . ^^ live been eafy for us to haj« IP'^ji,^ they were niuA SerceivioK by their ma°oe^«es,tn^^.> ^^a frightene!, Capta'" Gore was^n ^^^^^ th«r terrors ; and, thi«_tna ^.^^^ this peopl^ • , '^CAPTAIM COOK'* THJRD VQYAQE. jf^s lea r^ as mgh as any «nc m board ey/sr r^memla^r^d ;i«eenit. Ac eight in the evenuag, tbe g<^e Shifted tQ the W* without a'badng the lead in violence, and* by l^ai^rm^ ^ fudden iweU, in a contrary dire^^ion to that vi'bich pr^* mailed before, qccaCioRed the ihips to ilrain ^nd labour exceedingly. During the ftorm, feveral of the fails wer^e fpilit Qnboaid the rRefplution. lodeed they had be^n fp long bent, and were worn fo.thin, that this accident h^jl .ofiateiiiappened to us ahnoft daily In both ibips ; eipe- dally when bang ftiffand heavy with the rain, wey became ]e(^ Able to bear the ihocks .of the violQt^t ana variable winds we at this time e? psrienced. From the 29th of O^dbtr to the 5th of Novew*ber, we continued our .oourfe to the S- JE. having very un- settled weather, ^tended with much lightning and raio- i)aboth da};.s wepafled great auantkies ofpungiicc flione, feveral pieces of which we took up, and found to weigh -froih one ounce to three pounds. We conjectured that ited various colours, and a confiderable pan we con- jcdtured to be fulphur, both from its appearance to the eye, and the Arong fulphureous fmell which we per- 'ceived, as we approached the point. Some of the of- ficer^ on board the RefoUition, which pafled nearer the land, thought they faw fteams rifing from the top of the hill. From thefe circumftances. Captain Gore gave it the nzme of Sulphur l^and, ' Captain Gore now direded his courfe to the W. S. yW. for the Ba(he6 iflands, hoping to procure at them •fuch a Aipply of refrefhmcnts as would help to ihorten his flay at Macao. / We proceeded, without any occurrence worth re- -marking, with a frefti breeze from the N. E. till the 2 2d, when it increafed to a ftrong gale, with violent «fqualls of wind and rain, which brought us under clofe reefed top- fails. During the whole of the 23d and 24th it rained in« ceflaritly, and the wind ftili blew a ftorm ; a heavy fea rolled down on us from the N. and in the afternoon wc had violent flafhes of lightning from the fame quarter. During the night there was an eclipfe of the moon, btr the rain prevented our making any obfervation 5 unfoi- tunately, at the time of the greateft darknefs, a feaman, in flowing the main top-mafl flay-fail, fell overboard; but laying hold of a rope, which providentially wai hanging out of the fore-chains into the water, and the ihip being quickly brought in the wind, he was got on board without any other hurt than a flight bruife on hit ihoulder. As our fituation in longitude was now to the Wcflof the Bafhee, according to Mr Dalrymple's maps, I per- ceived that Captain Gore was governed, in the courle he w,is fleering, by the opinions of Commodore Byron and Captain Wallis, with whom he failed when they pafTed thefe idands. The gale, at this lime, had not io in the leafl abated ; and Captain Gore, flill conceiving that the iflands mufl undoubtedly lie to the weitward, brought I CAPTAIN COOK'$ THIRD VOYAGE. 757 brought the fliips to, with their heads to the N. W. Un- der the fore-fail, and ballanced inizen. At fix in the morning of the 26th, the wind having - coniiderably abated, we bore away W. fet the top-fails^ and let out the reefs. We faw this day a flock of ducks, and many tropic b:rds., alfo dolphins and porpufles,, and ftill continued to pafs feveral pumice ftones. We, ipent the night upon our jacks, aud at fix in the morn- ing of the 27th, again bore a^vay W. in fearch of the 15aftiee6. I now began to be a iittie apprchenfivc left, in fearch- ing for thoTe iflands, we fhould get fo much to the i-mthward as to be obliged to pafs to leeward of the Pratas. In this cafe it might have been exceedingly difficult for fuch bad failing mips as ours to fetch Macao/ particularly fhould the wind continue to blow, as it now did, from the N. N. E. and N, As I had fome doubts whether Mr Dalrymyple's charts were on board the llefolution, I made fail and hailed her; and having acquainted Captain Gore with my apprehenfions of: being driven to the fouthward, he informed me that he fhould continue on his courfe for the day, as he was flill in hopes of finding Admir.:il Byron's longitude right ; and therefore ordered me to ipread a fejv miles 10 the S. At noon the weather became hazy ; and at fix having: got to the weftw^rd of the Bafhees, Captain Gore haul- ed his wind to the N. W, under on e^afy fail, the wind* blowing very ftrongi and their being every appear* anceofa dirty boifterojs night. At four in the mom-- ingofthe 21th, we faw the Refolutioii, then half a mile ahead of us, wear, and immediately perceived breakers clofe under our lee. At daylight we faw the illand of Prata. For the remaining part of the day we carried a prefs pf fail, and kept the wind, which was N. E. by N. in order to fecure our paflage to Macao. It was fortunate thai "".oward evening the wind favoured us, by changing two points more to the E. for Iiad the \vind and weather L .;' 5^2 continued € 7|r CAnA\UC&m*B TttlttO VOTAOS. ' cdiitintitd ihH fitht &§dtttt^g ttfe.|)Hce(flrig W^ck, I ♦ doubt whether we Cd«M hA^fe feteh^d thaf Jfcttj iii >^hich Cik We niuft haVfe bbfUie 3l\tay for BfttaVk; a pbce tre fill dreaded exc^fcdmglv, frofti the fiid bavock* the tinhcakUhirteft of the tlimate had ihade iii the crews of the former (hipd tliat had been Out on diftdvery^ sind had touched there. Iri the forcrioGii of the ^9thi W6 pafTed feveral Chi* liefe fifliifig-boits, i^ho eyed us with great indifference. We were forry |o find the fea covered with the wrecks of boat^ that bad b^en loft, ^s we coi^edlurfd^ in the late Iwiftetoits weather. Being now ne^fly In the latitude ctfthe Lema iflarids-, Wfc borfe away W. by N. iaind, after rUdtlitig twenty-two miles^f^w oneof thetii nlhe or ten le^giies to the t^eftW&rd. Iti the tnbrnihg of the ^otll, we ikA alorig the Lema ifles* At feveh o clock, we had precifelyfche fame view dfthefe iflandfij 21^ is tefirefented m a plate of Lord Ah- fori^s vbyage. At nine o'clock^ a Chmefe boat, which hs^ beeii befofe with the Refoludon, ciimfe aloiigfide. and Watited to put on board us a pilot, Which however ^c declined; as u ^as our bufitiefs to follow our confbn, W^ fooh after paued the roiek marked R. in Lord An^ foti'6 t)late ; but, inftead of haulihg lip to the honhward of the grand Ladrone ifland,as was done ia the Centu- rion, We prdceed^d to leeward. It IS hardly rieceflary to rauttoil the rtiatiner not to ti^l^e thi6 eoutfe, as the danger Is fufficiently obvious; fi* ftioUld the vrind blow itrong^ &tid the current fet with if, it will be extremely difficult to fetch Macao.-^ Our fears of mlfline this port^ atid being forced to Bati'- yia, added to the Wrong and eager deiires of hearing liewi frotti Europe, made Vis rejoice to kc the Rcfo other papers they might have in tliehr poflTeffion, rdz • ting to the hiftory of our voyage. The execution of thcle orders feemed to rec^uire iome delicacy a$ well id firmnef?. I could not bo ignorant that the greatef*^ ^.u : of our ofEcers, and fcve)"al of ihe feamen, hadamufed themfdlves with writing accounts of our proceedings f6r their own private fatisfadtion, or that of their friencSi,* which they might be unwilling^ in their prefent formv to have Submitted to the infpcdlion of ftrangers. On the oth^r hand^ I could not confiftently with the in- 1 ftrudlions we had received, le:ive in their cuftody^ papers, which, either from careleffnefs or defign, might I fall into the hands of printers, and give rife to fpuriou9 I and imperfect accounts of the voyage, to the difcredit ot I our labours, and perhaps to the prejudice of officere, I who, though innocent, might be fuipe6:ed of having I been the authors of fuch publications* As foon there- I fore as I had ailembled the (hip's company on deck, I I acquainted them with the orders we had received, and ■ theredbha which I thought ought to induce them to ■ yield a ready obedience. At the fame time I told them^ ■ that any papers, . which they were dcfu^ous not to have ■ feat -n the Admiralty, {hould be fealed up in their pre^ ■fence, and Icdpt in my own cuftody, till the intentibns ■of the Boiinl, with regard to publications of the Hiflory , f the Voyage, were ful filled ; after which, they fliouid Ifaithfully be reftored back to them. It 's with the greAteft fatisfai^ion I can relate that my ;)ropofals met with the approbation and the chetritil )mpliance both pf the oncers eXud men; and I am perfuadea j6o CAPTAIN COOK'* THIRD VOYAGE. perfuaded that every fcrap of paper, containing any tranfa6;ion8 relating to the voyage, vrerc given up. In-, deed it is doing bare juftice to the Teamen of thh ihip to declare that they were the moft obedient, and the beft difpofed men I ever knew, though almoft all of them were very young, and had never before fcrved in a (hip of war. We kept working to windward till fix in the evening, ■when we came to anchor on the ift of December. In the forenoon of the 2d, one of the Chinefe con- tradlors, who are called Compradorsy went on board the Refolution, and fold to Captain Gore two hundred pounds weight of beef, together with a confiderabb <}uantity of greens, oranges, and eggs. In the evening. Captain Gore fent me on fliore to vifit the Portuguefe Governor, and to requeft his affiftance in procuring reirefhments for our crews, which he thought might be done on more reafonable terms than the Comprador would undertake to fumifh them. At the fame time, I took a lift of the naval ftores, of which both veflels were grcady in want, with an intention of proceeding immediately to Canton, and applying to the fervants of the Eaft Iniia Company, who were at that time refident there. On my arrival at the citadel, the Fort-major informed me that the Governor was fick, and not able to fee company ; on my acquainting the Major with my delire of proceeding immediately to Canton, he told me that they could not venture to furnifli me with a boat, till leave was obtained from the Hoppo^ or ofhcer of the cuftoms ; and that the application for thk purpofe muft be made to the Chinefe government at Canton. >^: The mortification I felt at meeting with this unex- pen tor this: rnmeni at turning under great dejeClion to the fhip, when the Por- tuguele officer who attended me, aiked me, if I did not mean to vifit the EngUih gentlemen at Macao. I need not add with what tranfport I received the information this queftion conveyed to me ; nor the anxious hopes and fears, the confiid: between curiofity and apprehcn- fion, which pafled in my mind, as we walked toward the houfe of one of our countrymen. In this ftate of agitation, it was not furprifing, that our reception, though no way deficient in civility or kindnefs, {hould appear cold and forma). In our in- quiries, as far as they related to objeds of private con- cern, we met, as was indeed to be exj)e£t€tt, with little or no fatisfadion; but the events of a, public nature^ which had happened fmce our departure, now, for the firft time, burlx all at once upon us, overwhelmed every other feeling, and left us, for fome time, almoft without the power of reflediion. For feveral days v\'e continued queftioning each other about the truth of what we had heard, as if defirous of feeking in doubt and fufpenfe, for that relief and confolation which the reality of oiu: calamities appeared totally to exqhide. Thefe fenfations were fucceeded by the moft poignant regret at finding curfelvea cut off at fuch a diftance from the fcene where yte imagined the fate of fleets and armies was every mo- ment deciding. On the pth. Captain Gore received an anfwer from the Committee of the Englifh Supercargoes at Canton, in which they aifured him that their bell: endeavours fliould be ufed to procure the fupplies we ftood in need of, as exjjeditioufly as poiTible: and that a pafiporc ihduld be fent for one of his officer?. The following day, an Englitli merchant, from one of our fettlements in the Eaft Indies, applied to Captain Gore for the affiftance of a few hands to navigate a vef- fel, he hadpurchafed at Macao, up to Canton. Captain Gore judgmg this a good opportunity for me to proceed to that place, gave orders that I (hould take along with me my Second Isieutena^t, the Lieutenant of marines, ., " and 7efe boat, to Canton, which is about two leagues and a half higher up the river. Thefe boats are the fieat^ft and nioft convenient for jpaflfengers I ever faw. lli«y are of various fizes, almpftnat at the bottom^ veriy broad upon the beam, and narrow at the head and Aern, Which are raifed and ornamented ; 'the »middle, where we fat, was arched over with a roof df -bamboo, which may be raifed or lowered :at pleafui^e : in the fides were iinail windows with (butters, and the apartment was fumiChed with handfome mats, chairs, and tables^ In theilern was placed a fmall waxen idol, in a cale^ofgllt leather, before which ftood a pot pontaining lighted tapers made of dry chips, or matches and gum. Th(i hire of this'boat was a opanifli dollar. Ireached Canton a little after it wa« dark, and landed at the Engliih fadlory, where, though my. arrival was very unexpedted, I was received with every -mark of at- tention and civility. The Seledl Committee at this- time confifted of Mr Fitzhugh the Prefident, Mr Bevan and Mr Rapier. TTiey immediately gave me an account of fuch flores as the India (hips were able to afford le,I requefted the gentlemen to procure* boatsfor me the -next day to convey the (lores j but I was foon infornwd, that that a rapid! compl pen/al I W£ withoi ced tov meafur. brough acquain down It cured, a being th chafe of on the 2 AsCai market fc with me pertyofc them at tl which ga^ quainted V jngacqua tneJe circu to fome C me a fair J ber of the . the place, gfity; anc himrelfme fit to himf examined t could not V Jars for thei ."ildforinp half their v, driving a bj onethoufai K^edjthen CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGfi. 763 that a ^utlnefs of that kind was not to be tranfadeid (6 rapidly in this country j that many forms were to be complied with ; and in (hort that patience was an indite penmble virtue in China. I waited feveral days for the event of our application, without underdanding that the matter was at all advaur ced toward a concluiion. Whilil I was doubting what meafures to purfue, the commander of a country fhip brought me a letter from Captain Gore, in which he acquainted me that he had engaged him to bring us down from Canton, and to deliver the (lores we had pro- cured, at his own rilk in the Typa. All our difficulties being thus removed, I had leifure to attend to the pur^ chafe of our provifions and (lores, which wascompl^tecj on the 26th. ' ^ ^'. As Canton was likely to be the moft advantageouf^ market for furs, I was defired by Captain Gore to carry with me about twenty fea-otters Ikins, chiefly the pro-i perty of our deceafed Commanders, and to difpofe of them at the bed price I could procure ; a Commiflion, which gave fite an opportunity of becoming a little ac- quainted wiih the genius of the Chinefe for trade. Hav- ing acquainted fome of the £ngli(h fupercargoes with thefe circumftances, I defired them to recommend ; the to fonje Chinefe merchant of credit, who would ofFet me a fair pi ice, I was accordingly directed to a mem^ ber of the Hong^ a fociety of the principal merchants of the place, who a(rured me I might depend on his inte- grity ; and that, in a cafe of this fort, he (hould confiHer himfelf merely as an agent, without looking for any pro- fit to himfelf; Having laid my goods before him, he examined them with gjfcat care, and told me that he could not venture to oner more than three hundred dol- lars for them. As I knew from the price our fkins had fold for in Kamtfchatka that he had not offered me one half their value, I found myfelf under the neceflity of driving a bargain. In my turn, 1 therefore demanded lOne thoufandj my Chinefe t,hen advanced to five hun- dred*, then offeried me a private prefeat of tea and porce- ' Vol. U ~N» 45- i I> laii»» 7^4 pAWApi.COpK'f THIRD VOYAGE. laiQy amounting to one hundred more ; then the fame Turn in money ; and lafUy, rofe to feven hundred dol- lars, on which I fell to nine hundred. At lad, being fired of the conteft, I confented to and received eight hundred. ' The ill date of health, which at this time I laboured itTider, left me little reafon to lament the very narrow limits within which the policy of the Chinefe obliges every European at Canton to confine his curiofity. I JObould otherwife have felt exceedingly tantalized with iiving under the walls of fo great a city, full of obiedts of novelty, without beine able to enter it. The following bbfervations, colledeif from the information with which I have been obligingly furnilhed by feveral Englifh gen- tlemen, who were a long time reiident at Canton, may not be unacceptable to the public. [ Canton, including the old and new town, and the fub- urbs, is about ten miles in circuit. Le Comte eftimated the number of inhabitants at 1,500,000; Du Halo at t)Ooo,ooo: and M. Sonnerat fays he has afcertained them to be no more than 75,000. The following cir- cumllances may perhaps lead the reader to form a judg-* hieiit with tolerable accuracy on this fubjedt. A Chinefe houfe, undoubtedly, occupies more fpace tlmn is ufuaily taken up by houfes in Europe i but the proportion fuggefted by M. Sonnerat, of four or five to one, certainly goes much beyond the truth. To thii £hould be added that a great many houfes in the fuburbi of Canton^ are occupied lor commercial purpofes only, by merchants and rich tradefmen, whofe families live en- tirely within the city. On the other hand, a Chinefe fa- mily appears to confifl:^ on an average, of more i>erfons than an European. A Mandarine^ according to his rani* and fubdance, his from five to twenty wives. A mer- chant, from three to five. One of this clafs at .Canton had indeed twenty^five wives, and thirty-fix children ; but this was mentioned to measa very extraordinary inftance. An opulent tradefman has ufuaily two ; and the lower •lafs of people very rarely more than one* Their fer* me Id- ing igVit iircd TOW ligca y* . ^ with as of )wing which agcn- i, may Kcfub- 'imatcd BaVd at •rtained ing cir- a judg- re fpace but the >r five to To thii , fuburbi only, by «jlWeen- [hinefcfa- e pcrfoni lohistanl' Amer- [antonhad iren ; but inftancc. the lowci heir fer. CAf»TAIN COOK*! THIRD VOYAGE, jCs tantB are at lead double in number to thofe employed by perfons of tbe fame condition in Europe. It then, we luppofe a Chinefe family one-third larger,and a Europeaa houfe two-thirds lefs than each other, a Chinefe city wilt contain only half the number of inhabitants contained in a European town of the fame fize. According to tbefe data^ the city and fuburbs of Canton may probaoly contain about one hundred and fifiy thoufand. With refpea to the number of inhabiiQil/ampanes^ or floating habitations, I founddilferent opinions were en- tertained ; but none placing them lower than forty thou- (and. They are moored ia rows clofe to each other, with a narrow paiTage at intervals for the boats to pais up and down the river. As the Tygris at. Canton is fomewhat wider than the Thames at London, and the whole river is covered in this manner for the extent of at lead a mile, this account of their number does not appear to me in the ieaO; exaggerated ; and if it be al- lowed the number of inhabitants in the fampanes alone (for each of them contains one family) mud amount to nearly three times the number fuppofed by M. Sonnerat to be in the whole city. The military force of the province of which Canton i^ the capital, amounts to fifty thoufand men. It is faid,^ that twenty thoufand are ftationed in and about the city ;. and as a proof of this, I was afTured that on the occafion of fomedifturbance that had happened at Canton, thirty thoufand men were drawn together within the fpace of a few hours. The ftreets are long, and moft of them narrow and irregular ; but well paved with large ftones, and, for the. moft part, kept exceedingly clean. The houfes are built, of brick one ftory high, having generally two or three courts backward, in which are the warenoufes for mer- chandize ; pr)d in the houfes, wt hin the city, the apart-- ments for the v7omen. A very few of the meaneft foft arc built of wood. The houfes belonging to the European factors are, built OQ aa haadfonoie quay, wuh a regular facade of two 5 D 2 J^orie» WiM IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k // /. ^ V ^ 1.0 I.I ■16 |2£ Ki2 »£ 12.2 us 1*0 2.0 11:25 i 1.4 I m I ^> o. V2 ^> Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSRO (716) S72-4503 \ qv ■i.^ n\ ^\ Wk\ ■>*«i:v^ 4R> J r I J 7^ CAFT^,l^X.90Ki'8TmRpyoyAGp. ftories toward ^he river, and difpoied within, partly after tire European, ati^ partly after the Chinefe manner. Ad- joining to thefe are a number of houfes belonging ^o tjhe Chinfele, and hir^d out to' the commanders of fhips and merchants who make an occafional ftay. The Englifli fup6rcarg(^es live together at a common table, which is kept by the company. The time of their rclidence feltlqm exceeds eight months annually. They very rarely ply any viiits within the walls ot Canton, except oh public occafions. During my ftay at Canton, I was carried by one of the Englidi gentlemen to vifit a perfon of the firft confe- quence in the place. We were received in a long room or gallery, at the upper end of which Hood a table with a large chair behind ir, and a row of chairs extending firom it on each fide down the room. Being previoufly inftru£ked that the point of civility confiftedin remain- ing as lu[«g unfeated as poilible, 1 readily acquitted my- lelf of this piece oietiqutite ; after which we were enter- tained with tea, and lome prderved and frelh fruits. Our hoft was very fat, with a heavy dull countenance, and of great gravity in his deportment. He fpoke a little broken Engh(h and Portuguefe; and, after we had t;dken our refrethtnent, he carried us about his houfe and gar- den, and, heaving (hewed us all the improvements he was making, we departed. In the evening or the 26th, I took my leave of the fu- percargoes, having thanked them for their many oblig-| ing fiivours; amongft which I muft not forget to men- lion an handfome prefcnt of tea for the ijfe of the (hips companies, and a targe colle^ioil of Englilh periodical publications. 1 he latter we found a valuable acquifi-* tion, as they both lerved to amule our impatience during our tedious voyage home, and er«able(l us to return not total ilrtngers to what had been tranfadling in our na- tive courstry. At one o' clock the next morning We left Cant<9n, and arrived at Macao about the fam^ hodr the day following, having p-ifed down a channel which lies tb t^ weftward of tluit by which we had conae up. '' ' liuring J on eve mei afe! ¥^'' was J notf was^ quani were and 01 Tht return tomak mijtinj The Chinefe whimfi( arrival h both of age had time it simod clothes /kins, ai in the col J mixed aif of China J On th( IRefolutit y^i andJ oA that) Icam anyj Vopfe h! al GAPTAIK COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE. 767 During our abfence a brifk trade had been carrying on with the Chinefe for the fea-otter fkins, which hsA every day beeil rifing in their value. One of our Tea- nien fold his (lock alone for eight hundred dollars y and a few prime fkins, which were clean and had been well preferved, were fold for one hundred and twenty each. The whole amount of the value in fpecie and goods that was got for the furs in both (liips, i am confident did not fall (hort of two thoufand pounds (lerling ; and it was generally fuppofed that at lead two thirds of the quantity we had originally got from the American!^ were fpoiled and won) out, or had been gjiven away and otherwife difpofed of in Kamtfchatka. The rage with which our feamen were poffefled to return to Cook's River, and by another cargo of fkin» to make their fortunes at one time, was not far Uiorc of mutiny. ^ , The barter which had been carrying on with the Chinefe for our fea-otter (kins, had produced a very whimfical change in the drefs of all our crew. On our arrival here, nothing could exceed the ragged appearance both of the younger officers and Teamen ; for as our voy- age had already exceeded, by near a twelvemonth, the time it was at firft imagined we (hould remain at fea, almoft the whole of our original ftock dF Luropean. clothes had been Jong worn out, or patched up with ikins, and the various manufactures we had met with 1 in the courfe of our difcoveries. Thefe were now again mixed and eked out with the gaudiell filks and cotton, lof China. On the I ith of January, two feamen belonging to the iRefolution found means to rUn ofi'witha fix-oared cut- p; and, notwithdanding diligent fearch was made,i |)oth that and the following day, we were never able to, |eam any tidings of her. It was luppofcd, thrt thefe. )eo[)1e had been feduced by the prevailing notion of, laking a fortune by returning ^o the fur ifland.«i». . iwi^; iring ,,, CmAmCOOK..THmBVOTACC ^^^ * .-^„« tw China. per day and ri«e 8 T A«nniL IN China Prices of I^^bour iij ^ ^ A cooKe, or porter " ^ . o o 5 Ataylov - "• ' " - o o A handicraftfman - - ^^ ^. '^ £ wo in the »&««*«'?•, °^*^e Tor of Macao wA CAPTAIN COOK'» THIRD VOYAGE. 7« which w,e gained by eight o'clock, and lay there till nine the next moraine ; when, by the help ot a fre(h breeze from the £. we uood to the fouthward between Potoe and Wungboo. In the morning of the 20th, we fteered W. by S. for Pulo Condore ; and at half pad twelve we got fight of the ifland. At (ix we anchored with the belt bower in fix fathoms, veered awav two-thirds of the cable, and kept the fhipfteady with a dream anchor and cable to tlie S. E. The harbour bore N. by W. and V/. N. W. i W. the opening at the upper end S. £. by £^ i £• ourdidance from the neared inore a quarter of a mile. As foon as we were come to anchor, Giptain Gore fired a gun, withp view of appridng the natives of our arrival, and drawing them toward the (hore,but without eifed. Early in the morning of the 2 1 d, parties were fen to cut wood, which was Captain Gore's principal motive for coming hither. None of the natives having yet made their appearance, notwithdanding a fecond gun had been fired. Captain Gore thoujght it advifeable to land, and go in fearch of them. We proceeded through a thick wood, up a deep hill, to the didance of a mile, when after deicending, we arrived at fome huts; I ordered the party to day without, led the fight of fo many armed men ihould ter-* rify the inhabitants, whild I entered and reconiloitred alone. I found in one of the huts an elderly man, who was in a great fright, and preparing to make on widi ^ the mod valuable effect:?. However, a few figns, par- 1 ticularly that mod fignificant one of holding out a hand* fill of dollars, and then pointing to a herd of bud'does land the fowls that were running about the huts in great [numbers, left him without any doubti as to the objects of m vifit. He pointed toward a place where the town lood, and made us conmrehend that, by going thither, 11 our wants would be fupplied. He ordered a voung lati tocondudl us to the town as .foon as an oodacle lould be removed of which we were not aware. Ou |ur fird coouog out of the wood^ a herd of bufialoes to thei ■% and ftood drawn 'iP »« n^'Jhat it would be ewecd- bld man made "« "™^V^ove tUl they were driven Wly dangerous fo%"*.*° ^^ were tlie animals grown hS^the woods, b"£ aKs n« effeOed without a at the fight of us^ that thw was ^^ ^ Tod id oi^flt^J^^^Xrpnki to fee themcaB %At to accompUih "' ^X^y^^'ho foon drove them rotheiraffiftanceafewUtileW)^, j.,„„ to obferve Sit of fight. After^^d, we M ^^^^ ^ that in diving thefe J«^^^„^^ » hte wHch i« made i» done by E"J"n?.*,^?lv8 were alfo employed, who fa their noftnls, '"tie , boys were j „„,(„ at times , Touldftroke and han^e them wuhj^un^^ ^ving got Wthe «nen •1"'*^"^ ^e^Honduaed to the town, ria of the buffaloes, we were conu ^^^^^ "wm confifts of betwee"jweniy^«^d ^^^^ built dofe together i be»'l*''.|J^e"oofi the two ends, and fettered about the beach. 1 h^^^^' . .onftrufted of Jhe fide frontmg the country, are ;^ ^^ „p,„. reeds ; the oppofite fide, tacmg^ . ^^^ ^^^^. but, by means of a &" °*S„ and air as they pleafe. duSe or let in as much o| the ma ^^ partition., We obferved I'^^^lS a?occafion required, the fc^oCo^thS^^^^ fiat, intofeparate aparttnent^ _ ^^^^^ in the town, beKlo tS^^'SS asW called him. th« ^teansofmy^one^and^poi^^^^^^^^^^ leas in fight, I bad no difficulty 'n %p»„y,«)m. Sed to>theprmcipJperfono^^^^ , Jusread.^ prebend the mam bufinets °^°^^ f ^^ Captain was ab- Snderftood i'^^^Sn^,^^'^. 1 A8« \a ils^ the ed- ven ►wn at a nni Lcai hem ferve rhich made who times ggot town, loufes, liat are Is, and aedof open; can ex- pkafe. rtUioM, ed, the ng con- ic to^n, their m, erent ob- ian,wlio nyj-com- as readilf [\ was'ab- this con* CAPTAm COOK'8 THIRD VOTA^S. 771 • After walking about the town for fome time, we r^ turned ^J the Captain's houfe, and were forry to fiijd that he was not yet arrived ; and the more fo, as the time was almod elapfed which Capt2un Gore had fixed for our return to the boat. When we returned, Capt. Gore felt peculiar fatisfa£tion at feeing us ; for, as we had exceeded our time near an hour, he began to be alarmed for our fafety, and was prei)aring to march af- ter us. Three men, who guidea us in our return, were made exceedingly happy on oui^ prefenting them with a dollar each for their trouble, and intruftmg to their care a bottle of rum for the Mandarine, One of them chofe to accomdftiy us on board. At two in thTafternoon we joined the (hips, and fe- veral of our fliooting parties returned about the fame time from the woods, having had litde fuccefs, though they faw a great variety of birds and animals.* Captain Gore's inquiries were now folely diredled to find out what fupplies could be obtained from the ifland. He was informed that there was plenty of buffaloes, which might be purchafed for four or five dollars a head; but finding that Captsdn Gore thought that fum exceed* ingly moderate, and would willingly give for them a much greater, the price was afterward raifed upon us to feven and eight dollars. Eariy in the morning of the 23d, the launches of both ihips were fent to the town to fetch the buffaloes which we had given orders to be purchafed ; but they were obliged to wait till it was high water, as they could at no other time get through the opening at the head of the harbour. On their arrival at the village, they found the furf breaking on the beach with fuch force I that it was with the utmoft difficulty each launch brought iabufFaloe on board in the evening ; and the officers, who were fent on this fervice, gave it as their opinion that, between the violence of the fiirf and the fiercenefs jof the buffaloes, it would be extremely imprudent to at- teftipt bringing afny more off in this way. We had pur- cha&d eight, and were now at a lofs in what manner to VoK II.— N® 45. 5 E proceed 77a CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. proceed to get them on board. It was at lad concluded that they (hould be driven through th^ wood, and over die hill down to the bay, where Captain Gore and I had landed the day before, which, being iheltered fironi the wind, was more free from furf. Tlie plan was ac- cordingly put in execution ; but the untradtablenefs and prodigious flrength of the buHaloes, rendered it a te- dious and difiicult operation. The method of conduct- ing them was by pafling ropes through their noflrils, and round their horns ; but, having been once enraged at the fight of our mep, they became fo furious,' that they fometimcs broke the trees, to which we were of- ten under the neceffity of tying them ||fometimes they tore afunder the cartilage of the noftri^hrough which the ropes ran, and got loofe. On thefe occafions, all the exertions of our men to recover them, would have been inefFedual, without the afliftance of fome young boys, whom thefe animals would permit to approach them, and by whofe little managements their rage was foon appealed. And when at length they were got down to the beach^ it was by their aid, in twifling ropes round their legs in the manner they were diredted, that we were enabled to throw them down, and by that means to get them into the boats. A circumftance re- fpeding thefe animals, which I thought no lefs fingular than this gentlenefs toward, and, as it (hould feem, af-^ fe^ion for, little children, was, that they had not been twenty- four hours on board before they became the tameft of all creatures. I kept two of them, a male and female, for a confiderable time, thinking that a breed of animals of fuch ttrength and li2:e, weighing when drcf- fed, feven hundred pounds weight, would be a valua- ble acquifition, I was inclined to have brought them with me to England ; but my intention was miftrated by an incurable hurt that one of them received at (ea. Befides the buffaloes, of which we under jlood there were feveral large herds in this ifland^ we purchaied from the natives fome remarkably fine fat hogs, of the Chinefe breed. They brought us three or four of a ■wild wild queni aoour v^asd Was oj ^ecief ing.fq, orane, : the bell ing out tree to t great ab Amoi and pJai oranges, I'^e ir ind CocJ Aort ftati healthy a/ ' di/bo/itioi: On the J as foon ai |s.s.w. On the pried for fi four, rill vd be bottom 1 J On the A h diftana Jre ten, eh locks or ^ecountrj teand tl [e land, az, Jfand marl p thick ^^fland, ti) pe ihores CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 773 wild fort ; and our fportfmen reported that they fre- quently met with their tracks in tne woods, which alfb aoound with monkies and fquirrels, but fo (hy that it was difHcult to fhoot them. One fpecies of the fquirrel was of a beautiful fhining black colour ; and another fpecies ftriped brown and white. This is called theflyi ing-fquirrel, from its being provided with a thin mem-^ brane, refembling a bat's wing, extending on each fide the belly from the neck to the thighs, which, on ftretch- ing out their legs, fpreads and enables them to fly from tree to tree, at a conliderable diftance. Lizards were in great abundance. Amongft its veMjtable improvements are fields of rice, and plantains, vXous kinds of pompions, cocoa-nuts, oranges, (haddocks, and pomegranates. •'- The inhabitants, who are fugitives from Cambodia I and Cochin China, are not numerous. They are of a^ (hort ftature, and very fwarthy, and of a weak and un- healthy afpedt ; but, asfar as we could judge, of a gentfe dilbofition. On the 28th of January, 1780, we unmoored, and,^ as foon as we were cl^ar oS' the harbour, fl:eer€4 1S.S.W. . . ^ ■ ^ ' ' ^; -'• '- On the 3d of February, at eight in the morning, wo [tried for foundings, continuing to do the fame every |l)Our, till we had pafTed the Straits of Sunda, and found ^he bottom yvixh twenty-three fathoms of line, • On the 5th we approached the coaft of Sumatra. At Ihe diftance of two or three miles from the (hore there pe ten, eleven, twelve, or thirteen fathoms, free from )cks or (hoals ; however, the lead is the fui^eft guide. le country is covered with wood down to the water's Ige, and the (hores are fo low, that the iea overflows ie land, and wafhes the trunks of the trees. To this it and marftiy fituation of the (hore, we may attribute |ofe thick fogs and vapours which we perceived every Jrning, not wittout dread and horror j hanging over. ; ifland, till they were difperfed by the rays of the fun- lie (hores of Banca, which aie oppofitc, are much 5 E 2 bolder J ^if^Slmit., V r»PTAW CPOK'. THIRD VOYAGE. ,^ CAPTAW ^-V ^^ ^ moderate boWer J aad the country «J«^„„'Jed throughout. K W<» »PP*"'f .hrriie afternoot.. we fav» two r«l in the Stra)t» of ?»"«"•„ ' i.,red for aftion ; and at Sxcame«°»".'"'?^° fenta to*t on board for intel- '■'«i the afternoon, the boat^^^^ W-'Um:^". coS%^« >^?'=ahTother'l"pi«l-t ^m Bat. !:?riS^&for *{%a;^^^^^^^^^^ If iatbe cuftom for the P"Jf,'l^ve"tavia, on account Lfng rnearly co^P^.^l^t^^ifc^d proceed to feme f -r. »vtreme unwholefomeneis, *• F^ ^ ^^ ft be morrbealthv i^^VifcrcaSoaWeirdifpatch.. Sfor the repaWer o2^"^^«f5,e i„diaman h,d loft No^withOanding ^«fP!?*S«, f°« "i'"5 *?'' ^t fence her departure f™"",^"* ^'as defpwred of. Sh Kany nvote r*'°^1^3 waTnow aW to proceed ^y^^T'irCrS^f'SV received fina^l orders ,^Ilf after ten I received orders ir _ j ^^j y 2nSSbvard a Dutch Oj'P'^S " ofed to be froJ ^Se fouthward, and ^^^Mture^o*' the intelligent EuS^; and,accordmgtoAen^^^^ k^trs?^hS'-^tftif^" wait tor blm, , ^^^n toward the Dutch ihii «rklch foon at^c^- ^*P^ . ana the cuHcnt M fettu^ "^K^n^tUe wind flack?ning,.and tfi^e cur^ ^^^^^] CAPTAIN COOK'8 THIRD VOYAGE. 775 imponible to fetch her, and having therefore got as near her as the tide would permit, we alfo dTAiN fcUTWIDGE, t M RI« -Mjijes^t's sloops ' RACEtlORSE AND CARCASE; TO WHICH IS PREFIXED, M Account of the feVeral VOiTAGES uadertaien for t)ie DUbyvery ii kortb-Eaft P«Qage to C|uAa and Japaiu A r ;'' > THE Introduction. IT is fortunate for commerce, and the intercourfe of nations, that there is implanted in man's nature a de- fire of novelty, which no prefent gratification can fatis- fy; that when he has vinted one region of the earth, he is iiill, like Alexander, fighing for another to explore ; and that, after having efcaped one danger in his pro- greis, he is no le(s eager to encounter others, that may chance to obftni^ him in the courfe of his purfiiits. If the hiftory of former hardfhips could have deter- red men from engaging in new adventures, the Voyage, the particulars of which we are now about to relate, would probably never havebeienundenaken. The dreary regions that furround the Poles are fo little accudomed to feel the kindly influences of the enlivening fun, and are fp deftitute of the ordinary produdions of the earth in happier climates, tb^it little lefs than one whole quar- ter 01 rheg^lobe is, by its (leriHty,FendeFed uninhabitable by human beings, and but thmly occupied by a very inconfiderable number of the race of quadrupeds.-- The many and almoft infuperable difficulties that mud; therefore be e3M)eded in traverfing thefe forlorn deferts, where no relief is to be expeded, but from the favour- able interpofition of that power, whofe merciful ;-o- vldence extends to the remoteft corners of the earth, are, ttptti reflection, enough to cOol the ardour of the moft cnterprifin^, and to ftagger the refolution of the mod Intrepid. In the cbntehtion between powers, equally formed ^y nature to, meet an bppofitioni it may be glorious to overcome; but to encounter raging feas, tremendous ...-S-, wj,. ^,.iMw ^j •^c"—* — .• ■■ rockSt focks, in att( as the hardie feJfan( and fi compli home 1 This brief re( dertafcei to Chin; Thef WilJoug the xra < to the Jat gined, oi byaflon the river death wit[ cifeaccou having fai latitude, { affirming, than New bytheDui only a fogj J Wood, an r |"ontofneJ 1 ToSh- Ifpughs, ad pzabeth. fetter forti lucccfs. j far N. as ilrait that . Pammoyds F eafteri: Piwhencc INTRODUCTION. 7*3 ,arc, xnoft moft tocks, and bulwarks of folid ice, and defperately to perfifl: in attempts, to prevail againft fuch formidable enemies ; as the confli^ is hopeleis, (o the event is certain. The hardieft and mpft fkilful navigator, after expofmg him- felf and his companions to the moil perilous dangers, and fufFering in proportion to his hardinefs the mo(|: complicated diilreffes, muft at lad fubmit to return home without fuccei's, or perifh by his perfcverance. This obfervation will be fufficiently juftifiedi by a brief recapitulation of the Voyages that have been un- dertaken, with a view to the difcovery of a N. E. paffage to China and Japan. The firft who attempted this difcovery was Sir Hugh Willoughby, with three (hips, fo early as the year i C C3, the aera of perilous enterprizes. This gentleman failed to the latitude of 75 degrees N. within light, as it is ima^ gined, of New Greenland, now called Spitlbergen ; but by a ftorm was driven back, and obliged to winter in the liver Arzena, in Lapland, where he was frozen to death with all his company. He left upon his table a con- cife account of all his difcoveries, in which he mentions, having fjuled within fight of a country in a very high latitude, about which geographers are divided ; fome affirming, as has been laid, that it could be no other than New Greenland, afterwards difcovered, and named by the Dutch Spitfbergen ; others, that what he faw was only a fog-bank ; and of this latter opinion is Captain I Wood, an able navigator, of whom welhall have occa- |fion to fpeak hereafter. I To SSr Hugh Willoughby fucceeded Captain Bur- roughs, afterwards Comptroller of the Navy to Queen ' Elizabeth. This gentleman attempted the paffage with )etter fortune, and returned full of hope, out without [ucccfs. He paffed the N» cape in 1556, advanced as Far N. as the 78th degree, difcovered the Wygate, or trait that divides Nova Zemblafrom the country of the iammoyds, now fubjc<3: to Ruilia: and having paffed "le eafternmoft point of that ilrait, arrived at an opca ?aj whence he returnsd^hs^ving as; he imagined, difcover** €4 ■^K iNTRODtTCTlON. fired, aohie »«^f'?!llftTa country altogether de- &^e"ihSe 'tiS^ "-- "- -"^ *' ""'^ Burroughs encouraged Jja^^^f^^^ery. The comfflaud ftout veflas to P«'*=.'^.*f„ the Captains Jackman and Petti iwha, in 1580. f"«f Rn^Lhs, and entered the h«l' been «»'fc^«!«l''L?S^«nl^^f^^^^^ eaftetn fea ; j'^'^^'i^e fo tempeftuous, that :*er en- and Ae ^atha bewme io le j f„ftj;„ing the moft during inprediMe hardftJtp^a ^^^^ ,j, arfeadfel fhock* 1?^? hacklSd feparated ; and neither )ation,thcy were drw^^»* f.^er W of afterwards. ?ett norhisfttporc«ww«ee ^^^^^ ^^^ j^^^ . After this dtiafter and miapp ,j „ ^ba^ ^fttinK the frozen feas ro '^ '-jt,„ the Dutch wA Zoofthe E«gt;mnre%S^S^^^''T^^ an bbftinate J«l=?«^°h 'l.S we Wad of who inade the nation. T^« ^''^R.^jS^^ofe ^^Y^ge. f,m attempt was tohnCorneUu^OT ^ he wasftillowed ^e have but * '^^ '^S B^ans, or, as fonie wnte, however in '6o6by WdUamD v^.^ ^^ ^ Barents, a«»'''^*"l!,Xd^th every neceffary fotfo .uaticiah, whobeing Wf J^erofity and p««:<'«'?t^ hasardous a voyagCi ^V.^f.^X courfe wbU had tol Prince Maurice proceedegAeCO^^^^ . ,, , uJ ioiSted ottt tohimby the^ng^ Sncutnbrance^ W paired the Wygatt. WUuQ tn j^^^ ^ . SI 'the like teniTJefts "iT'uprgainftthemM Seed; »n INTRODUCTION. ^ts ond dt- aUes natid I and tthk d the then^, eren- ; moil he tt- leither wards. ftcpspfthofpwhph^d gone before him. In i6o7^am^ 0)^t^ rather t>ian difcouraged b^r diiitppointmentf he ent^ed uppp,hU fijcppd voyage, with the Ipiritof a man fully prepofleiTed with fuccefs. He had heard, that Ibme of the whalers, whq had now begun to frequent the N»i Seas, hsid> either by defiga or accident, advanced much farther tQ the northward than thofe who ha4 beea pu^[^of@iy fitted opt upondifcoYeries ; he therefore detec-* mined to fteer to thenorthward of Nova Zembla, till he fiipuW arrive at the heig,bt of the Pole, under which he was perfiiaded he fliould find an open Tea ; and, by changing his cpurfe tp the fouthward, avoid thofe o!>- ftruftionis which biui retarded hispaflage to the N. E. I^ tius hope he continued till he arrived on the coaft. of NoyatZiembla* where, before he had reached the jyth^ degree, b^ was fb n^^ely attacked by the mountains. q£ ice, that eyery where aflailed him, that not being able to, »foe of l«Hhft*i>d their fury, he was driven againft the rockt, o abate I ^i ^? ^V? d^fls^ed to pieces. Barents and the gres^eil^ -h with Ipai^ w hi^ ^^^^ S9% faf^ to land, but it was to exi)erience •ematklpeatfr nwfery than thofe underwent w^o perilhed ia. lade the W^^ attempt* They were obliged to winter in a coun« n I ?05»fry where no living creature besides themfelyc& appear- } •^^^•■{ji tohaveexiftence ; and wh?re, notwithftanding their lutmoft efforts to preferve their bodies from the.colc^ \e fiefli periQied Upon the bone^ offome ofthem,andi ithers died of the moft es^cruciating pains. In this extremity, and notwithftanding the an^uiflt laS%eiBtey endured, thofe who furvived had ftill the fortitude but hav-wd ingenuity to frame a^pinnace firom the wreck o£ ibrance^B*^^ broken (hip^ in which, at the approach of fuin- id expe-B^f* ^^^Y wadfe >ad for Lapland ; but before they arrived :heTti,te*W Colu, tl^eir Captain died, and with him the hopes o£ vevcr hfl ^^ was now the a^ive feafon for naval cnterprizc to fevcralBdyate adyeoturer&began to fit out (hips for the N. Seas. ^*^{i^felfiBiQuinerable fea animals had been obferved tobaik ,^Q^n^«)n the ice ; thetufks of whofe jaws were found to wbg^V^^> in whitfii:\e6i» the iine.ft ivory, and theu: carcafes blloww le write, malhe* ryforfq Ullage of 7«tf JNTRODUCTION. to yield plenty of excellent oil. In the infancy of the whale fiChery, thefe were purfued with the fame eageN nefs, with which both the Englifh and Dutch endeavour at this day to make the whaled their prey, and perhaps with no lefs profit. In following thefe, many iflands were difcovered to which they reforted, and, in courfe of time, the feas that were fo formidable to the fifft dif- coverers, became frequented at the proper feafons by the ihips of every nation. Foreign navigators, however, were more fanguine in their notions of a N. W. pafrage,than of the exiftence of a p^flage to the N. £. and it was not till many unfuc- cefsml trials had been made to difcover the former, that the latter was again attempted. The celebrated Hud- fon, who difcovered the flraits that lead to the great weft- em bay, which flill bear his name ; after he had exert- ed his fkill in vain to find a paflage weflward, was per- fuaded at lad to undertake a voyage in fearch of a paf- ia^eto the N. £. This he performed in i6i3, but being difcouraged by the mifcarriages of others, and the fatal ifiiie that nad attended their obflinate pjsrfeverance, on viewing the face of the country, examining the cur- rents, and traveriing an immenfe continent of ice, that ftretched along the ocean, in a direction from £. S. £, to W. N. W. ne concluded, that no pafTage Could be practicable in that direction, and therefore returned without making any other material difcovery. ♦ From this time till the year 1676, the profecution of this difcovery was totally negleded by the Englifh ; and though the Dutch whalers amufed the world with won- der^] relations of their near approach to the Pole, yet little credit was given to their reports till the arrival ofj one John Wood, who had accompanied Sir John Nar- borough in his voyage to the the S, Sea with a view to (cflablilh a new trade with the Chilians, auji natiyaj of that vafl tra^t of country reaching from the Straits Magellan to the confines of Peru. 'Hiis able and enterprizing navigator, being himfelf 1 ^xcelleat n^athematicianand geographeri ai^d reading' indi Cha wou men M to (hi vailin bimfe befitt provic ther, a a Pink which ed witi on the, moft pi through Thd; out fort cd to dfi Captain perous. Onrh of the N June caff Jey con j ttores. . On Sa tinued thi IPolar circf ,'«f8- Atf [yard in t| ^hich, h( -ganto INtHODUCTION. 787 ur ids irfe Jif. the ein 5nc6 ifuc- that iud- wcft- jxert- 8pCT- I paf- 3, but ad the irance, jic cur- ie, that .. S. h .uld be turned' Ufeif^ the Philofophical Trahfadlions apaper,byi^hich theex- iftence of a N. £. parage to the eattern or Indian ocean was plaufibly aflferted, and this exadtly coinciding with his own notions of the conflrud^ion 01 the globe, he was induced, by this and other reafons, to apply to King Charles the Second for a commifTion to profecute the dilcovery ; the accompli(hment wheredfl it was faid, would add to the glory of his Majefty's reign, and im- menfely to the wealth and profperity of\As kingdoms. Many about the Court 01 that needy Prince, hoping to (hare in the profits of the «)yage, were earneft in pre- vailing with his Majefty toforward thedefign^ who being himfelf fond of novelty, ordered the Speeidwell frigate to be fitted out at his own (Charge, manned, victualled, and ])rovided with every-ncceffary ; while the Duke, his bro- ther, and feven dthep^ourtiers, joined in the purchaf^ of a Pink of one hundred and 20 tons, to accompany her, vvhich they likewife manned and victualled, and furniih-* ed with merchandizes, fuch as were thought marketable on the coafts of Tartary or Tajpan ; the countries they mod probably would iirft fall in with after thdr paflag^ through the north fea, ' . ' Thefe (hips being in readinefs, and cdthmiiHons made out for their Commanders, Captain Wood was appoint- ed to diredt the expedition, oii boTd the Speedwell, and Captain Flaws to bear him company on board the Proi^ perOUS, ■'.■-■' - ■' ,(;,.■, yr:;.i On the 2 ith of May 1 616, they failed ftorti the Buoy of the Nore, with the wind at S. W. and on the 4th ot June caft anchor off Lerwick, in Braffey Sound, where they continued (ix days, to take in water and recruit their ftores. On Saturday the loth they weighed anchor and con- jtinued their voyage ; and on the 1 5th they entered tke jPolar circle, where the fun at that fCiiibn of the year never lets. At noon the Speedwell broke her.main-top-fail- fard in the flings, the firft difalter that had happened, rhich, however, was eafily repaired. The weather now eganto grow hazy, a circumltance thatfrequently hap- Vol, II.— N» 46. 5 G pens fif«« INTRODUCTION. pens in the Polar regionsi and darkens the air with the obfcurity of night. From this lime till June 22. when they fell in with Itheice in latitude 75 d. 59 m. N. nothing material OC'* curred. On that day, at noon, they obierved a conti- tinent of ipe Aretching to an imperceptible diHancei in a direction from ji. S. E. and W. N. W. They bore away along th^ ice till the 28th, when they found it join to the land of Nova Zembla. On the 29th they flood away to the S. to get clear of the ice ; but unfortunately found themfelves embayed in it. At 1 1 at night the Profperous bore down upon the Speedwell, crying out, ice upon the weather-bow, on which the Speedwell, clapt the helm hard a weather, and veered out the main^lail to ware the (hip ; but be- fore (he could be brought too ^ the other tack, fhe ilruck on a ledge of rocks, and iluck faft. They fired guns of diilrefs, but were not heard, and the fog being io thick, that land could not be difcerned, though dole to the ftern of thdr (hip ; do rdief w^s now to be ex- f reded, but frpiti Prpvidi;nceand their own endeavours, n fuch a (ituation, no defcription can equal the relarion of the Captain himfelfi who. In the language of the tiroes, has given the following full and pathetic account. ** Here, fays h^» we lay beating upon the rock in a fi^oft frightful manner, for the (pace of three or four hours, uung all poifible means to fave the (liip, but in vain : for it blew ib hard) that it was wholly out of our ^we^ to carry out an anchor c^^P^ble to do us any fer- vjce. At length we faw land clofe under ot^r ftem, to the great amazenient of us all, which before we could not lee for the foggy weather ; (o I commanded the men to get out the boats before our mall came by the board, w^Hch was done. 1 Cent the boatfwain towards the (hore in the pinnace, to fee if there was any poilibility of land- ing, which 1 much feared, becaufe the iea ran fo high. In half an hour he returned with this anfwer, that it was impoiTible to land a man, the ihow being in hiph diffs, the (hore was inacceilible. This was bad tidmgs : fo i INTRO DUCTI OK. 7«9 then it was high time to think on the fafety of our fouls, and we went altogether to pravers, to befeech God t6 have mercy on us, for now nothing but individual ruin appeared before our eves. After prayers, ^he weather cleared up a litde, and looking over the ftern, I faw a fmall beach directly with the ftern of the (hip, where I thought there might be fome chance of getting on (hore» I therefore fent off the pinnace a fecond time, with fome men in her to be firft landed, but (he durft not venture to attempt the beach. I then ordered out the longboat with twenty men to land, who attempted it, and got fafe on (hore. They in the pinnace feeing that, followed, and landed their men likewife, and both veffels returned to the (hip without any accident. The men on (hore defired fome fire-arms and ammunilion, for there were many bears in fight. I therefore ordered two barrels of powder, fome imall arms, fome provifions, with my o\yn papers and money, to be put on board the pinnace ; but as (he put off from the (hip's fide, a fea overfet her, fo that all was loft, with the Hie of one man, and feverat others taken up for dead. The pinnace like wife wasdafh-* ed to pieces, to our great forrow, as by that difafter, on^ means of efcaping from thisdifmal country, in cafe the Profperoua deferted us, was^cut off. The long-boat being on boar^, and the fea running high, the boatfwain and ibme others would compel me and the Lieutenant to leave the (hip, faying it was impoflible for her to live long in that fea, and that they had rather be drow.ed than I ; but defiring me when I came on (hore, if it Were poffible, to fend the boat again for them. Before we got half way to (hore the (hip overfet, fo. making all pot- lible harte to land the men we had on board, I went off to the (hip again, to fave thofe poor men who had been fo kind to me before. With great hazard I got to the quarter of the (hip, and they came down the ladder into tlie boat, only one man was left behind for dead, who had before been caft away in the pinnace ; fo I returned to the (hore, though very wet and cold. We then haul- ed up the boat, and went up the land about a ffight (hoe, 5 G a . wher* 790 INTRODUCTION. where our men were making a fire and a tent with can-* vafa and oars, which we had faved for that purpofe, in which we all lay that night wet aqd weary. The next morning the man we Ittt on board havine recovered, got upon the mizzen-maft, and prayed to be taken on lore, but it blew lb hard, and the Tea ran fo high, that though he was a very pretty failor, none would venture to brmg him off. ^ ^ The weather continuing blowing with extreme fogs, and with froft and fnow, and all the ill-compa£ted wea* ther that could be imagined put together^ we built more tent8 to preferve ourfelves ; and the (hip breaking to pieces, came all on (hore to the fame place where we landed, which ferved us for ihelter and bring. Befides, there came to us fome hogfheads of flour, and brandy in good (lore, which was no little comfort in oui great extremity. We now lay between hope and defpair, praying for fair weather, that Captain Flawes might find us, which it was impofTible (or him ever to do while the weather continued foggy ; but fearing at the fame time that He might be cad away as well as we. ^ But fuppofing we never were to fee him agsdn, I was refolved to try the utmofl to fave as many as I could in the long boat. In order thereunto we raifed her two feet, and laid a deck upon her to keep the fea out as much as poflible ; and with this boat, and thirty men, for (he would carry no more, 1 intended to row and fail to Ruflia, but the crew not being fatisfied who (Iiould be the men, began to be very unruly in their mind and behaviour, every one having as much reafon to fave himfelf as another, fome holding confultation to fave the boat, and all to run the like fortune ; but here brandy was bur heft friend, for it kept the men always fox'd, fo that in all their deiigns I could prevent them. Some were in the mind to go by land, but that 1 kne^ was tmpoflible to any man; neither had we provifions nor ammunition to defend us from the wild beafls ; fo the pafTage by land being impracticable, and no paflage by fea to be attempted till forty men were deftroyed, I ' • will INTRODUCTION. ?9« To IS )t ^^1 ill will leave it to the confiderjition of any, whether we were not in a deplorable condition, without the inter* pofition of Divine Providence. The weather continued ftill very bad, Vith fogs, fnow, rain, and froft, till the 9th day of our being on (hore, which was the 8th day of July, when in the morning it cleared up, and to our great Joy one of our people cried out a fail, which proved Captain Flawes; fo we fct fire, to pur town, that he might fee where we were, which he prefently difcovered, fo came up, and fent his boat to us ; but before I went off, I wrote a brief re- lation of the intention of the voyage, with the accident that had befallen us, and put it into a glafs bottle, and left it in the fortification I had there built ; fo by twelve o'clock we all got fafe on board, but left all on (hore that we had faved from the fhip ; for we much feared it i would prove foggy again, and that we fhould be driven once more on this miferable country ; a country, for the rpoft part, covered perpetually with fnow, and what lis bare being like bogs, on whofe furface grows a kind ^ lof mofs, blearing a blue and yellow flower, the whole m^\x&. of the earth in this defolate region. Under the furface, about two feet (ieep, we came to a firm body of Ice, a thing never heard 01 before ; and againft the ice pliffs, which are as high as either of the forelands in ^entj thei fea has wa(hed underneath, and the arch over- hanging, mod fearful to behold, fupports mountains of low, which, 1 believe, hath lain there eyer fmce the Feation.*' Thus far in Captain Wood's own words, He adds, ^at by the tides fetting diredtly in upon the (hore, it iy be affirmed with certainty, that there is no paflage the northward. One thing remarkable in his re- jion, and which feems to cj^^ntradidt the report of for- prnavigators, is, that the fea is there filter than he had taded it ellewhere, and the cleared in the world, for |t he could fee the (hells at the bottom, though the fea four hundred and eigljty feet deep. iemg ail embarked oq board the PrQfpe|:QU8| on the 9* *pi a* of July ^it^^t^^X^^-'^^^ Wgheft expeftations had been I ^^ agree.tt^ta ri^ ""^isatpj^ '"^"f had „o exiftence. They L-jr-ee by the N. or N. f- ".* f^^ an error it is, S the more coiifirmed in th s en^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ j^^ by^he reafons affi?nei by Upmn J^^^ he, ^ent upon hi opinion °n *V\ffXperfuaded himfelf, and like- the ^fcoverv, he ^a^o Lw that nothing jvas more •Cifr Dcrfuaded many o"**"^! " c-ft faw the ice, he Teruir When, ho^evf^^^^^ K-^d'o Greenland imagined it ^« on'j *n,«Htended farther from land , J^d^hatnofohdtodyof c«x«n^^^^^^^ ^l d^« than twenty leagues , "^ \'"° ^f direaion in which the *^urfe. and coafted a^«B " %Tor head-land of ice, ite lay, expeamg, at every c v ^ ^^ operimginto . rfter running a ceriam dAance. JO . ^^ ^^^^^ g,,fl- SrPolar ocean ; >";;„f "Tfound himfelf entangled to the northward m one bay, nej.,j i,-,^ (hip.w " i^ another; and »»«* « commue i "recked. By this f P««^r> that by fteering hJ Tf Barents confuted, name ys ,ndN6vaZembliI « an open fea tnight ^e atm"S ^ his own expJ « fafely fail « ^aj! ** *' „„ meed that all the Dutd relations were f«"?*"!* p'le • verily believing, thail had wr been under the P°M™^ 80 d. that the (i fJ his opinion upon *« '/~yed ten degrees moj INTRODUCTIONf 7« have themfelvis failed beyond the 8oth degree of N. latitude, and others, upon evidence, whofe veracity there is no reafonable caufe to bring in queftion. Among the latter, the teftimony of Mr Tofeph Moxon, member of the Royal Society of London, muft have confiderable v^eight. In a paper which this gentleman caufed to be printed \n the Philofophical Tranfadions, ^ is this remarkable relation. *' Being about twenty years ago in Amfterdam, I " went into a public houle to dnnk a cup of beer for " my third ; and fitting by the public fii^e, among " feveral people, there hai>pened a feamen to come in, ** who feemg a friend of his there, who he knew went " the Greenland voyage, wondered to fee him, becaufe " it was not yet time for the Greenland fleet to come " home, and alked him, what J^ccident had brought " him home fo foon ? His friend (who was the fteerf- *' man) anfwercd, that their (hips went not out to fifh, '* but only to take in the lading of the fleet, to bring it; " to an early market. But, faid he, before the fleet had ^ " caught fi(h enough to lade us, we, by order of the " Greenland Company, failed unto the North Pofe, and " came back.again. Whereupon, fays Moxon^ I enter- " ed into difcourfe wit,h Lim, and ieemed to queftba " the truth of what he fiidj but he did afTure m^eit " was true, and \hr\ the (hip was then in Amfterdam, " and many of the feamen belonging to her ready to " juftify the truth of it ; and told me, moreover, that " they had failed two degrees beyond the Pole. 1 afk- " him, if they found no land or iflands about the Pole ? " He anfwered, no ; there was a free and open fea. I " aflsed him if they did not meet with a great deal of " ice? He told me, no; they faw no ice about the Pole. I afked him, what weather they had there? He told me, fine warm weather, fuch as was at Am- (lerdam in the fummer time, and as hot. I Ihould have afked him more queflions, but that he was en- paged in difcourfe with his friend, and I could nor, m mode/ly, interrupt them longer. But I believe **lhe i m INTROI^UCTION. tc the fteerfman ippke truth ; for he feemed a plain. ^ honeft, and unanedatious perfon, and one who could •* have no defign upon me.*' ♦'To authenticate this relation it has been obfervcd, that under the Poles, the fun in June being 23 d. high, and having little or no depreifion towiirds the horixon, always, as it were, fwimming about in the fame eleva- tion, might invigorate that pan of the hemifphete with moire heat than he does our climate $ when he is, in the winter, no more than 15 d. at the higjieft, and but eight hours above the horizon 5 in which Ipace the earth has time to cool, and to lofe, in the night, the influences of heat vvhich it receives in the day. Another report lipon like evidence was made to King Charles the Second, by Capt. Goulden, who being a Greenland whaler himielf, Ipoke with two Hollanders in the North Seas, that had failed within one degree of the Pole, where they met with no ice, but a hollow ^owh fea, like that in the Bay of Bifcay. A ftill more credible teftimony is, that about the year l6;^o, application being made to the States General for a charter to incorporate a company of merchants to trade to Japan and China, by a new paifa^e to the N. £. the then Eaft India Company oppofed itj and that fo effedhially, that their High ly^ighanefTes renifed to grant what the merchants requefted. At that time it was talked of in Holland, as a matter of no difficulty to fail tojapan by the way of Greenland ; and it Was publicly aflerted and believed, that feveral Dutch ft ips had adually done it. The merchants being required to verify this fadl, defired that the Journals of | the Greenland fquadron of 555 might be produced; in fevcn of which there was notice taken of a inip which that year had failed as hi^h as the latitude of 89; and three journals of that Oup being prouuced, they all agreed, as to one obfervation taken by the mafter, Auguft { J> * 655, in 88 d. 56 m. N. ^ ^ 1 But a proof incontefiible, is the teftinlony of Captain Hudfon, who failed ir^ 1607 to the latitude of 81 d 3oni 30 we ed j adv whi and coaf COUf It INTRODUCTION. 795* 30 m. N. where he arrived on the i6th of July, the weather being then pretty warm. Add to all thele, that the Dutch, who were employ- ed in 1670, in endeavouring to find a N. E. panaffey advanced within a very few degrees of that open ka, which is now cornmonly navigated by the Ruffians, and which would infallibly have brought them tc the coafts of China and Japan, had they perfevered in the couVfe they were purfuing. av c; - It does not appear, however, fi^om any authentic ac- counts that we can colled:, that arvy voyage, profefTedly for the difcovery of a N. E, paffage, has been under-' taken by either public, or private adventurers in Eng- land, fince that of Captain Wood in the year 1670, till the prefent year : and it is more than probable that if the Ruffian difcoveries on the N. of Afia had never taken place, the thoughts of finding a pradiicable pat- fage from Europe in that direction, would have laia dormant for ever. But the vaft and enterprifing genius of Peter the Great, in forcing his fubjeds out of that obfcurity in which they had long been involved, has opened to the maritime powers new fources of commerce, and fur- nifhed frelh motives for new enterprizes. From a pedple unacquainted with a veflel bigger than a hark,- and who knew no navigation but that of their ovm ri- vers, that wonderful Prince riot only taught them the ufe of (hips, but intruded them in the true principles of building and equipping them. Nay, he did more ; for after making himfelf known and admired through- out Europe, he conceived the defign of opening a com- munication with the remoteft parts of the globe, and difcovering to the world new countries which no Eit* ropean nation had ever yet explored. With this defign he planned one of the boldeft en- terprizes that ever entered into the hea\t of man ; and though he did not furvive to fee it execited, the glory of the atchievement is wholly his. The country of Kamvfchattajfras as tnuch unbiown Vol. II. N« 4(». 5 W i^ ^ INTRODUCtlOK. tD his predecefTors ks it was to the reft of the civilized nations of the earth ; yet he formed the defign of making that favage country the centre of the moit glo- rious atchievetlients; It was in the laft year of this •great monarch's life^ that he commiilioned Captain Behring to traverfe the wild, and then almoft delolate, country of Siberia, and to continue hi& route to Kamtfchatka, where he was to build one or more veflels, in order to difcover whether the country towards the north, of which at that time they had no diftin£fc knowledge, was a part of America, or not 5 and if it was, his inftru£tions authorifed him to endeavour, by every poilible means, to feek and cul- tivate the acquaintance of fome European people, and to learn from them the ftate of the country at which he ihould arrive. If he failed in this, he was to make iuch difcoveries as circUmftances (hpuld prefent, and commit to writing therefult of his obferVations for the ufe of his Imperial mafter. To enter mmutely into the particulars of Captain Bfihring's journey and voyage, would carry us beyond tiie iimus preicrioed for this Introdudlon : letit fufiice to fay, tha^ after furmounting incredible difficulties, and fufFering hardlhips which none but a Ruffian could have furvived, he executed his commiffion fuccefsfully, and returned to Peterfburgh in fafety, after an abfence of five years, in which time, befides his voyage by Tea, he had travelled^ in going and returning, eighteen thou- f^nd miles by land. It is from the fecond enterprize of this aflonifhing man, and from the fubfequent voyages of the Ruffians, that we are able to afcertain the exiflence of a N. E. paflage ; and it is from thence, and from the late voyage of Captain Phipps, that, we think, we may fairly mter the practicability of it. It was fome time about the year 1 740, that Captain Behring embarked on his fecond voyage from Kamt- fchatka, of which all that we know is, that he failed fouthward to the ifles of Japan, ^ad&om thence eail- ; ward h( pr an he his mo inh not wen Cap Ft from ofja voyai from itapp betwe times open, latirudi and at thcmfe is mar longiti proceed N. anc tired fo from t] of Afii eaft Joi ing J?af and faill Englii firaits tJ thing cJ a N. Ej meratec f>utch .# INTRODUQTION. 197 tvard alk^ut 8q leagues. At that dtftance from Japan he difcovered land, which he coafted N. W. ft ill ap- proaching to the N. E. cape of Alia, which he doqbled, and named Cape Shelvghenfki, not daring to land till he arrived at the mouth of a great river, where, fending his boats with naoft of his crew on (horc, they never more returned, being either killed or detained by the inhabitants, which made his difcovery incompleat ; for not having men fufHcient left to navigate the (hip, (he went on fhore on an uninhabited ifland, where the Captain unfortunately died. From this voyage, however, we learn that the fea, from the N. E. cape of Kamtfchatka, is open to theifies of Japan, and from a fubfequent account of Ruffian voyages, publifhed in the Philofophical Tranfaftions, from a paper communicated by the celebrated Euler, it appears that they pafted along in fmall vefTels, coi^fting between Nova Zembla and the continent, at divers times in the middle of fummer, when thpfe feas were open. The firft escpedition was from the river Qby, latitude 66 d. N. longitude 6^ d. E. from London, and at the approach of winter, the veflTels (hekered themfelves by going up the Janifka, the mouth of which is marked in our maps in latitude 70 d, N. and in longitude 82 d. E. whence the next fummer they proceeded to the mouth of the Lena, in latitude yz d. N. and in longitude 1 15 d. into vvhich they a^ain re- tired for the winter fcaion. The third expedition was from the mouth of this river, to the fartheil N. cape of Afia, in 72 d. of N, latitude, and in 172 d, of eaft longitude from London. Thus the Ruffians hav- ing paffed between the continent and Nova Zembla, and failed as far as the eafternmoft N. cape, and the Engliffi and Dutch having repeatedly failed through the ftraits that divide Nova Zembla from the continent, no- thing can be a plainer demonftratibn of the reality of a N. E. paffiige, than the fum of the voyages here enu- merated, when added together. The Engliffi and Putch fail to Wygatz, or the ftrait of Nova Zembla; 5 H a the r • •• "i I ■79« I N T li O D U C T I O N. the Ruffians fail from Wygatz to the N. cape of Afia ; and Bchring from the N, cape to Japan. This is an incontrovertible demon ftrai ion ; yet it is obvious, that this courfe can never be practicable to (hips employed in trade. The Ruffians, by taking the advantage of an open fea and mild weather, in three years time accom^ plifhed but part of a voyage, vvhich, by the Cape of Good Hope, may be made in leis than one. Who, therefore, would run the hazard of fo defperate a paffiipe, for the fake of reaping imaginary advantages by an in- tercourfe with favages, who, for aught we know, have nothing .to exchange for Pluropean commodities, but the Ikins of bears, or the bones of monfters ? But though the paiTage to the northern countries of the E. was known to be impraiTticable to European navigators in this dircdlion, it was worthy the greatnefs ^f a maritime people, to endeavour to determine the poffibility of attaining the iameend by another courfe. The mifcarriage and death of Barents, and the (hip- wreck of Captain Wood, had left the queftion undeter- piined, whether the regions adjoining to the Pole are land or water, frozen or open fea. The advantages from this difcovery, beiides the glory refulting from it, had the decifion terminated in favour of navigation, would have been immenfcly great. To have opened a new channel of commerce at a time when our trade is knguiihing, would have revived the drooping hopes of our manufacturers, and retained at home the numerous emigrants, who, for want of employment in their own country, are feeking new habitations, and new means of living in remote iettlements, ot the certainty of which ihey have no experience. It muft be acknowledged, to the lafting honour of the noble Lord who prefided at the head of the Ad- miralty Board, and who patronized the undertaking, that the means to render it fuccefsful were in every re- ^pe6t proportioned to the importance of the difcovery. ' The veffijls that were made choice of were the pro- pered that could be (t^vife^* Somb-ket9h^9 sqre in the INTRODUCTION. 799 the firft inftance ftoiitly built, and not being over large, are belt adapted for navigating feas that are known to abound with (hoals and covered rocks : thefe veflels, be- fides their natural ftrength, were flieatlied with plank of IbaXoned oak three inches thick, to fortify them againft the ihocks and prelfure of the ice, that, in their progrefs, they muft infallibly encounter. They were, .befides, furniflied with a double fet of ice poles, anchors, cables, fails and rigging, to provide againit the terrible eiFe(3:s of ithe fevere and tempefluous weather, that frequently I happens in high latitudes, even in the midole of the Imoft temperate feafons. Nor was his lordfiiip lefs careful to provide for the I comfortable fubfiftenCe of the men, than for the pre- servation of their lives, by his wife directions in equip- ping their (hips. His firft care v/as, to ifTue orders for Killing and curing a fuffident quantity of beef and pork [in the heft manner poilible, that their provifions might |bc good and frefli ; and his next, to caufe one hundred lutts of porter to be brewed with the heft malt and hops, that they might have proper drink to fortify them againft . [he rigour of the climate they were about to pafs. Their peafe, oatmeal, rice, and molafTes, were all pro- vided with equal care, and when all things were in kadinefs, tl>e beer was ftowed in the holds, and the lacancies filled up w^ith coals, which fcrved as ballaft, jliat fire might not be wanting to warm and dry them then cold, or wet with labour, or with watching. \M to this, that a double quantity of fpirits were put |n board, with a large proportion of wine, vinegar, [luftard, 6^c. &c. and what, w^e believe, was never be- p thought of in the fitting out of any King's fhips, a bnfiderable quantity of tea and fugar for the lick, in Ife any fhould be feized with that dreadful diforder, Ihich rendered (hip provifions loathfome to Capt. [mes's men, who were conftrained to winter in Cl»arl- ilfland in 1632. Thefe men fell fick, and had fore Duths, and could neither eat beef, pork, fifli, nor pot- ce; the Sturgeon was every morning and evenins oblig?^ Soo INTRODUCTION. obliged to pick l/icir teeth, and cut away the pieces o:. rotten flefh from their guiiis, yet they could eat nothing but bread powndcd in a mortar, and fried in oil, on "which they fubiifted for feveral months. In cafe of ac- cidents of this kind, and that tea Ihould fail to anfwer the purpofes of npurifhment, a quantity of portable • ibup was likcwife provided. And to complete the whole, a ilock of warm clothing was laid in, confiding gE fix fearnought jackets for each man, two milled caps,! two pair of fearnought trowfcrs, four pair of milled ftockm^s, and an excellent pair of boots, with 4 dozeni paar ot milled mitts, two cotton ihirts, and tw handkerchiefs. Thus eq^uipped and provided, the command of th Race Horle was given to the Hon. Conftantine Phipps now Lord Mulgrave, as Commodore, and that of th Carcafe to Coptain Skiffington Lutwych ; the firl mounting eight fix pounders and fourteen fwivels—^ - uosiri burthen three hundred and fifty tons; the l^itter fouKree pounc iix pounders and fourteen fwivels, burthen three bunmroclamatio V ^0 R Utl boar< |]reU tons. !i .'^M. JOURNAJ rsn T - I JOURNAL V O Y A G TO DISCOVER THE NORTH EAST PASSAGE. 3^:1 E a'jh ■. 'i-.Vi^th 4 new- . ' LL things being now ih readlnefsyrfie'iSBoeTS on ► _ board, and the men paid their bounty-money dF |hree pounds per man, according to his Majefty's royal proclamation, for the encouragement ^ fhofe who iould voluntarily enter to undertake the voyage, on , [he 3d of June 1 77^, the Commodore made the fignal jo weigh ; but previous to their departure, the Carcaie ]aving been judged too deep to navigate thoTe hnvrf eas through which (he was to pafs, the Captain dj- p\tA leave from the Board of Admiralty to re-land en of her complement of men, and to put afhore fi* csf eight fix pounders, with which fhe was equipped, Hth a quantity of provifions, proportioned to thei imber of men that it had been thought proper to [fcharge. On FrTday the 4th being off Sheernefe, the wind W, N. and a frefh breeze, they took their departure, and itinued their voyage without any material occurrence fppening till Tuefday the 1 5th, when the Commodore ^ de the fignal to lie to. They were then off BralTey md, and many fi(hing-boats from Shetland being in %h(^ ■2^ 8o2 VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. fight, the men were invited on board, and fomc fifh purchafed of them at a cheap rate. On the 1 7lh they took a new departure from Shet- land, but the day following the fog thickened fo much, that it almoft approached to total darkiiefs. During the continuance of the fog, the Commondore kept hr- ing guns and beating drums, to prevent the Carcafc from lofing company. As it was impoffible that one could fee the other at a (hip's length, it was found the more neceffary to repeat and return the firing, left they fhould run foul of each other before they could be ap- prized of their danger. About five in the morning the mift cleared up, and about nine the Commodore being in fight, made the fignal to the Carcafe to fteer N. E. They were then m latitude 60 d. 52 m. N. by obfer- vation ; the N. end of Shetland Ifland bearing N. by W. one half Uy. fevenot" eight leagues. On the 17th they oblerved a fail to the N. E. which the Commodore brought to, and fpoke with. The breeze fre(h, the weather hazy, and the wind variable the Carcafe carried away her main- top-mad iludding fail yard; which however was very foon fupplied. Latitude this day by obfervation 62 d, 53 m. N. Friday the 1 8th, being in the latitude of 65 d. 9 m. N. the clothing allowed by the Government, of which notice has already been taken in the Introduction, was delifered out, and officers as well as men received theirl Carcafe. full proportion. This day the weather continued ail ^adreache* before. JN. being 01 Saturday the 19th the weather varied to every pointBfrom their of the compafs, the Commodore brought to, and fpoke vothing with the Carcafe. Made fail about three in the roori ing, and at nine a latge fwell. Tacked and flood to tl eauward. Latiude 66 d. i m. N. longitude from LQa< don 33 m. W. Sunday the 20th they purfued their courfe to tl caftward, with the wind N. W. but variable; hi| breezes and clear air. They were now within the Pol circle, and at midnight had aa obfervation of the k and boar< wefg to wi Cavei the w on th dred ai Moi obferv< yet feei fet in fe Commc rough c 8he hap MrWir barked cute the ^ heavy fa aWe to ei the HamI taken katv voyage, tl M the moj cafe purfu] Tuefdai VOYAGE to THE NORTH POLE. 803 and found their latitude 66 d. 52 m. N. Sounded on board the CSommodore with a lead of one hundred weight, and a line of feven hundred and eighty fathom, to vtrhich Wat faftened a thermometer of Lord George Cavendi(h*8 conftrudiion. They found no bottom, but the water was eleven degrees colder at that depth than on the furface. The Carcafe founded with four hun- dred and 6fty fathoms only. Monday 2 1 , light breezes and cloudy weather. They obferved a whale on the N. E. quarter, the firft they had yet feen in the north feas. The weather now began to fet in fevere; the nights cold and the days cloudy. The Commodore obferving a whaling fnow with Hambo- rough colours flying, fired, a (hot, and brought her to. She happened to be homeward bound with feals, and Mr Windham, a gentleman of fortune, who had em- barked on board the Commodore, with a view to profe- cute the voyage, finding nothing but four weather and heavy feas, to gratify his curiofity,and being withal un- able to endure the fea ficknefs, took pafTige on board the Hamburgher, in order to return home ; and having taken leave of his friends, by wiihing them a happy voyage, the Snow's boat took him on board about fevert in the morning, and at eight the Commodore and Car- whichl^^^ purfued their voyage. Tuefday 22, the articles of war were read on board the Carcafe. The weather began to be piercing cold ; they had reached the 70th d. of N. latitude, in a courl'e nearly N. being only 14 m. to the eaftward of London ; ana from their leaving Shetland to this day, they had feen othing remarkable; nor had any accident befallen lither of the (hips worth relating, except that of now md then fnapping a rope, or breaking a yard ; incidents fily repaired. This day it poured with rain ; the air as thick, and the rain froze as it fell. Saw a large ip to the N. W. ftanding fouthward, but wanting no formation that (he could give, they purfued their oyagc without fpeaking to her. Wednefday 23, the rain continued j the weather hazy; Vol II.— N*' 46. 5 I heard :t- :h, "« Br- :al'c one the hey ;ap- r die >einj5 <\.^, )brer- y-W. which The ariable adding pplkd. m.Kl in, >A^as tdtbe'u liued as ^*^ 004 VOYAGE TO THE KORTH POLE. heard three guns fire at a diftance, but faw no (hip or other objed. The whales are here in no great plenty, and few (hips appear in the open Tea in punuit of them. They generally at this feafon frequentthebays and creeks near the (hore, and only break away when they are pur- fued or wounded. On Thurfday the 24th, the Commodore changed his courfe to £. N. £. and on the 25th they were in latitude £4 d. 7 m. N. and in 8 d. 32 m. £. longitude from ondon. Served out to the (hip's company plenty of xnuftard, pepper, vinegar^ &c. The weather extremely cold and variable. At eight in the evening thick fog; at two in the morning fre(h breezes ; at eight clear wea* ther ; at eleven fqualTy ; and at noon calm, with fleet and fnow. On Saturday the 26th, at midnieht, they had an ob« fervation, and found themfelves inlatitude 74 d. 17 tn. N. frefh gales, fometimes rain, fleet, and fnow ; at ievea in the morning clear weather and an open fea. Sunday the 27th, light airs from the fouthward, and cloudy weather ; much warmer than the preceding day. It is remarkable, that the viciflitudes of heat and cold arc more frequent here than in the more foutherly latitudes. It often changes from temperate to extreme cold, and that fuddenly. It fhould feem likewife, that the ice frequendy changes its place in this latitude ; or that it is more folid near land than in the open fea ; for, on the 23d of June 1676) Captain Wood, being more to the eaftward, fell in Wvh ice right ahead^ not more than a league diftant. Hci (leered along it, thinking it had openings, but found them to be bays. He founded, and found ground atj one hundred and fifty ei^jht fathom, foft green oar. L fome places he found pieces of ice driving offatnili from the main body in ftrange (hapes, refembling (hi, trees, buildings, beafts, fifhes, and even men. main body 01 ice being low and craggy, he could hills of a blue colour at adiflance, and vaulevsthatwi white as fnow. In fome places he obferved drift w amo it Frt fanh (hip. du i S; diltant feven leagues. At three in the 5 I 2 moroing } ^o6 VOYAGE TO THE l^OKTH POtK . morning made Chaiies's liiand, and at nine faw a fail .^ to the weftwaril whaleing ; they were then in latitude 78 d. 18 m. Ne by obrervaupn. Sounded, and fowtid the lame depth as before. .Friday 2, light airs and moderate weather. Lay to, tnd took the air itude of a mountain, which they named S^ount ParnafTus ; found it from the level of the iea to e three thouiand nine hundred and fixty feet high, co- vered with fnow, and at a diftance refembling an ancient building, with fomething like a turret at top. The foot of this mountain, with the hills adjoining, have fome- times a very fiery appearance, and the ice and fnow on fheir iides refembling trees and (hrubs, gliilen with a briiliancy that exceeds the fplendor of the brightefl gems* AVhen this happens, a violent ftorm generally fucceeds. liere they (hot fome fea-fowl, but of an oily tafte. . Saturday 3, proved a perfect calm. They fpoke with ^-Hollander, whoforetdd, that a degree ortwo ^rther N. was the utmoil e^^tent of their progrefs this feafon. Hav- ing doubled Cape Cold, they anchored in fifteen fathom V^ater, about three miles from the land, aad fent the boats afhore for water, v;htch they found in abundance, pour- 1 ipg down in little ilreams from the rocks, At hve in ^e afternoon, by the mean of four azimuths, ihe varia- tion was found to be 18 d, 36 m. W, Soutided, axidj found only fixtyrfive fathoms, loft brown mud. Mountl ParnalTus E. N. E. three or four leagues.r-Among otherj reafoi.s which jGaprain Wood gave for wi(hii)g to bef employed on ths clilcovery of the N. E. paiTage^one was/ that he might have an opportunity of approaching the] Pole, in order to (ettle an hypothefis, wl>icL he had long framed, wherer>y the inclinaiion of the magnetica! needia under the horizon, in all latitudes and in all longitudeij with the variaton of the compais, might be exa^ly de t^rmined. This navigator imagined two magnetic^ Poles to exid : and that, by approaching the one, (k'^uld be able to aetermifi^ the action of the other, does not appear^ that he ever explained his hypothefuj siod there never ^las bceti but one man, whofe naipew/ WilliaD tbii fi ;d, bcr^ infi ghw GftcQ Racej Were Was I andgi whi<;h HeadJi Tue and ifli afterno firing Panjr, the ice dore bol At iiaifl th^j S. VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. ••7 WilUams, fince his time^ who pretended to know any thing of the matter. Saturday 4, light breezes and hazy weather. Sounds ed, and only twenty fathoms deep; rocky ground. Hacluit's Headland, or the norther mod point, or Spitl^ bergen, bearing N. by £. feven leagues. Many whalers in fight. Latitude by i)bfervation 79 d. 3 A m. N. lon- gitude from London 8 d. to m. £• Tnermometer forty-feven. . Monday 5, at two in the afternoon founded, and only fifteen fathom water ; roeky ground. Thick fog. The Racehorfe fired guns, as fignals to keep company, which were anfwered by the Carcafe. A dreadtul crackling was heard at a diilance, which proved the dafhing and grinding of the loofe pieces of ice againileach orher^ which is heard at many leagues dif^ance. Hacluit's Hea.dland S. £• by S. diftance fix or feven leagues. Tuefday 6* proved very foggy ; the breezes flighty and iflands of ice beginning to appear. At three in the afternoon the Commodore hauled np from a large body of packed ice, and the fog thickening, both fhips kept firing W)lley8 of fmall arms, to prevent their loling com- pany. At half paft ten in the evening, tl>e <;xtremes of the ice ftretching fro-n N. W. to E. N. E. the Commo;- dore bore away ; and at half pail twelve loft fight of it* At half paft ene in the morning heard a violent furf to the S. E. At two tacked and ftood to the weft ward. At half paft five the fog gathering, they began Sihig volleys of fmall arms. At fix faw the ice ftretching from E. by S. to N. by E. and at feven was within fight of land. At ten Cloyen Qifi' ftood E. S. E. diftant about five or fix leagues. Wednefday the 7th, the weather cloudy. They found themfelves befet among the loofe ice, which in- cfeafin^ cauuau'lly, gave them incredible trouble. Obiervmff that it thickened to the eaft ward, they hauled up, anil Rood to the weft ward 5 but in tacking, they were in danger erf running foul. It was with difficulty ^ey coiild keep. any courfe, ivc the drifts of ice came fo f^z VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLEl. fo thick, as to whirl the (hips about, as if in a whirlpool. Thurlday 8, the weather ftill remaining cloudy, and the wind .variable, both ihips continued to be entangled in the ice; and the Carcale being driven to leeward, l^oifted out her long-boat to tow up . with the Commp. dore. But the ice clofing very faft, it was impoifible for the boats to live. Orders were then given to tack and ftand to thefouthward; but the (hips not being able to make head againft the accumulation of ice that continually gathered round them, were under a necef- iity of applying to their ice anchors and poles, in order to warp through it. At half paft eight in the evening, the ice beginnmg to open, they again hoiiled out their boats, and with c'ifnculty towed the fhips rbumi a cape pf ice projecting from the main body, and at lafl got dean At ten the boats were hoifted on board. In ex- tricating themfelves from this danger o-r ^ation, the Racehorfe had her bed bower anchor fnapt in the fhank, dofe to the Rock, and the Carcafe loft her (larboard bumpkin and head-rails. It frequently happens, that ihips befet amon^ the ice in the manr'^r above related, perifh by being da(hed to pieces againft the folid fields of ice, or crufhed b^ the broken pieces crowding upon one another, and riling fo faft about the (hi[), as to exceed the height of her fides, and then there is no efcaping. They were told by fome experienced feamen, that the ice rifes out otthefea as high fometimes as mountains, ? 'd chat feveral of thefe mountains, by ftriking together a i \:v4» efcing, form thefe iflands of ice that are frequently fxii in the lower latitudes, driving up and down the fea as the wind and tides diredt them. The greateft danger to be apprehended, is, however, from the loofe ice ; for the whalers often moor their fhips to the folid fields ot ice, that at certain feafons feem to reft upon the earth, and appear fixed to if. and there find the beft fiihing. In fuch fituations ir ^}>^en hap- pens, that little or no loofe ice is to be feen ; yti pre- Uui^Yt upoA a change of wind, or tha blowing of a ftorm, VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE: 8oi» ilorm, it (hall pouir in upon them fo fuddenly, that they fometimes pen{h in it. It is not poiTible to account for the aftonidiing quantity that will gather in this manner in lefs than an hour's time. Though it feems to be agreed, that many of the lar^eft fields of ice are frozen to the depth of the fea in which they are found, and that they are bedded on the folid leartn, yet it is equally certain, that they are often rent ai'under by the raging billows ; and that in break- ing, they produce the moft terrifying noife in nature ; nay, it is afferted, that the clafhin^j of the pieces of loofc ice againft each other, on any extraordinary agitation of the waves, is attended with a roaring (o loud, that a man who is near it can hardly hear the found of lu« own voice. Friday the 9th, they hauled up to the weftward, and loft fight one of the other ; but about nine next mom* ing, they came in fight, and joined company. The weather being now piercing cold, the people had an additional quantity of porter and brandy delivered to them ; two quarts of porter and a pint ot brandy being now every man's daily allowance. Saturday July the loth, the breeze firefh, and the weather cloudy. They ^ failed between numberlefs pieces c^ ice, . among which the^ faw feveral whales, but none of 'the whalers in purfuit of them. The ice now becoming folid and compadt, they found it im- pradicable to continue their courfe. And the difco- very of a paflage to the Pole in that direction (upon holding a confultation) appearing impradicable to every officer on board of both (hips, the Commodore, at {evtn in the evening, hauled clofe to the wind ; and the Car- cafe, as foon as '{he could extricate herfelf, followed his example. The weather continuing foggy, with rain and fnow, the failors were almoft worn out' with turn- ing and winding ; and although they ufed the utmoft precaution in working through the narrows, yet they could not always avoid finking againft the mountains that every where furrounded them. During this night's work| ■*tjv^'; 9t^ VOYAGE TO THE NOltTH POti. work,tIiey fteered a hundred different eourfeSi to follow the channels^ Sunday 1 1 , havine worked out of the ice, thev failed along the main body, which appeared perfe^fy foKd and compact, without any pallWe or inlet. Thi$ im» menfe mafs of ice extended N. £. as far as they could fee from the mad head ; and, no doubt, might be a conttmiation of that in which they were engaged a few days before. The Tea was now tolerably clear, for they met with no more fields, and only a few detadied iflandsb At half pafl one in the morning they faw the land from S. by W. to S. S. £. At three in the morn- Hrt they tacked; Cloven Cliff bearine S. S. E. fix At feven tacked again. At eight the Commo* j& doie bore away, and the Carcafe ftood after him. Oo^ Ven Clifff 8. i W. two or three leagues, latitude yg d, 56 m, N. Monday 12, at eight in the evening. Cloven Cliff bearing W. S. W. four or five mites, they founded in fifteen fathoms water, and found a rocky bottom. 8aw feveral Engliih and Dutch Greenlanders at ahchoi^ in the Norways: that being their rendezvous to the northward, they never chufe to proceed farther. Here they found the current letting lb fafl to eaflward, that they were forced to come to an at)chor to keep from drifting oii the ice; the fwell firom Weftward b^ing fo gfeat, that had that happened, it would of confequence have ftaved the (hips. At five in the morning a breeze from N. N. £• fpringin^ up, they weighed, and made fail. At eight Hacluit's lieadland W. S. W. f W. fix or feven leagues, at noon latitude Sod. 2 m. N. Tuefday 13, the weather being clear and calm, and a ftrong eaiterly current fetting in, at eight in the evening they came to with their flream anchors and haufer^ irl forty ^thorns water ; but at nine a breeze fpringing up j from the eaflward, they weighed, and next day came to an anchor in Smearingburgh Harbour. Cloven CliiF £. I S, one mile. W« point of Voogle4and N. N. W» emp had J of m( hills ( thatf thofe I arc CO rain ir By Joe fanci d. fhips, y fill the more 1 Thefej and are country upon tl brilliant the eyei g^afs, at bright b We coJc gems inl bold, ali| fills the i Smeai (lifcoverJ convenif whales, Hefeali If ge, ai„ tiers all , of the ftoves, Vol. IlJ VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. I , 111 f W. diftant one mile and a half ; foundings fifteen fathom, fandy bottom. Here they remained between five and fix days, to take in frefh water, during which time our journalift was employed in iurveying the country, which to a flranger had a very awful and romantic appearance. The country is fioney, and as far as can be feen, full of mountains, precipices, and rocks. Between thefe are hills of ice, generated, as it fhould feem, by the torrents that flow from the melting of the fnow on the (ides of thofe towering elevations, which beifig once congealed, arc continually increafed by the fnow in winter, and the rain in fummer^ which often freezes as foon as it falls. By looking on thefe hills, a ftranger may fancy a ihou- fand diflferent (hapes of trees, caftles, churches, ruins, fhips, whales, monikers, and all the various forms that fill the imiverfe. Of the ice-hills there are feven, that more particularly attra^ the notice of a ftranger. — - Thefe ar,e known by the name of the feven ice-burgs, and are thought to be the higheft of the kind in that country^ . Wnen the air is clear, and the fun.ihines full upon thefe mountains, the profpedt is inconceivably brilliant. Th^y fometimes put on the bright glow of the evening rays of the fetting fun, when renewed upon glafs, at his going down; fometimes theyappear of a bright blue, like fapphire, and fometimes like the varia- ble colours of a pnfm, exceeding in luftre the richeft' gems in the world, difpofed in fhapes wonderful to be- hold, all glittering with a luftre that dazzles the eye, and fills the air with aftoniftiing brightnefs. Smearinburgh harbour, where they landed, was firft difcovered by the Dutgh. Here they cre^ed (heds and conveniences for boiling the oil from the fat of the whales, inftead of barrelling it up to be boiled at home. Here alfo, allured by the hope of gain, they built a vil- lage, and endeavoured to fix a colony : but the ftrll fet- tlers all perifhed in the enluing winter. The remains of the vdlage may be traced to this day ; and theii: iloves, kettles, kardels, troughs, ovens, aad other imple* Vol. U.— NO 46. 5 K. ments, ! .$^'^V'''-« 4r' tti votAgk to the ^drth pole. menl^, rema-iif^- io the Ihaipfe of foMd ice Ibng ift^v ^h^ iitenlils thcmfelveS were decayed Out ttiyagcn ^were told, thlt the Ruilians have lately attetnpted the Mnt thing, and that ten out of fifteen pen(hed kft winter in this feicond attem|>t. Where every objeift h new, it is not eafy for a ftranger to fix which firft to admire. The rocks are ftriking objeds: before a ftorm they exhibit a fiery ap);>earancei and the fun lodks pale upon them, the fnow giviAg :!^ air a bright reflediofa* Their fum- itiits are aim oft always invwved in ctoiMk, fothat it is bilt jiift poffible to fee the tope ?)f them. Some of thefe rocks ire but dne ftone from bottom to top^ appearing like ail old decayed ruin. Others coriiift of hu^ maifes. veined differently, like marbk, with redl, whiltei and yettbw, and probably^ were they to befa^ied Mid po- fiflied, would equal, if not excel, the fineft Egyptian marbie Vire now lb much admire^ Perha()Sthediitance and danger of catryii^g large bkbcks of ftotlfes^ may b^ the reafon that no triaiB ^ve been mini^ t<3> manufac- ture theHi. Ott the Southerly and treftcrty firdes of theie fOcks gtiOW all the plants, herbs, and moKies pe- culiar to this country j on. the ttortherly and eafterlv Mth the wind ftrifcds tc> cold when it blo^s from theK. cjuartera, that k perifhes every kind of vegetable.-— Thefe pbnts grow tQ perlfedion in a very ihort time. Till the middle of M^iy tlie whole country fe locked ttp in ice ; about the begit^Aing dP July the plants are ki flotver, andabc>ut the ktter end of the IMe ^onth, or beginning of Auguft, they have perfected their ^d« The eatth owes its ^rtility, in a ^at me^^e^ to the duiig of bitds^ who biiild and br«^ th^ir yolimg heY^ i^the fumm^r, and in the Winter repair to mo):efaf- vDurable climates. The plants^ that are mod CdMYilibKli ih S^yili&ergen »e fcUrvy-grafs and crc>mfopt; th^e tare b^fides fmall houfe-ldek, and a plant with aJoe-le^ves ; m h^rb like itone-cit>p ; fome fmall fiiake^-weed ; moufe-ear ; wood- ftrawbiexty $ {lenwinklej and a^ herb pecuikr to the €€Rintry, VOYAGE TO T«£ NORXP VQhE. ^H ^pi|nt?y, which they q^U the roqk-pl*nt. The leayiEB of thi^ plstnt aris in ihape like a man^s tongue, above fix feet long, pf a dwlf yellow colour. The ftaljk i^ rouad an4 ?pooth, and of the fame colour with the leaf $ it rifes tapering, and fmeils like mufcles. It i$ an aquatic, aivd rifes in height in proportion to the depth qf water m which it is found. There are other plants and herbs, but thefe are the chief. Of flowers^ the whitg. poppy fe^n)^ \\k principal. The rocfo and precipices are ifull of fiffures and cleft% which afford cofivenient harl^our for birds to lay thqif eggs, and br:eed their yo^i^g in iafety. Mf^ ^ thefe birds are water-fowl, and feck their food in the iea.^ SoRie, indeed, are birds of prey ; and puf iue and Jciti others for their own iuftenance, but thefe are rarei-rr The water-fowl eat ftrpng and fifliy, and their fat if not to be endi^red,. They are fo numerous about th? rocks, as fometimes to darken the air when they rife m flocks 5 ajid they icream fo horribly, that the rocks ring with their ftpife. There are a ftw fmall birds like (^r foipes, a»=>d * kind of fnow-birji h^K idiSerent from that found abpui Hudfon's bay* The gent Jensen (hot fpme of the water fowl« but they were ilrpng and ill tailed. The ice-bird is a very beautiful little bird^ but verf TfaOk He is in fiz$ and Ihape like a turtle-dove, but his plumitg!9» wh^n the fun (hines upo.i? him, is 0f 4 bright yellow^ Uke the golden ring in tjii^ peacock's ^aii> and aliD^oiQ: dazzles the eye to look upon it. The other inhabitants of this forlorn couiitry arc white bej^r^, deer^ md foxes. How .tfcefe ^creatwes can fubfift i» the witf^ter, yirhen the whole earth is cOf vered with (now, and the fea locked up in ice, is hardr ly to be cpocjeived. It has been faid, indeed, th^t when iheo^eaBis all frpzen over, and no fuftenaAce to be pro- cured in this covi^i^tyyi tix^J' travel foutherly to tlie warjix- er climates, where food proper for them ahQijijnds in jdi^ immerife foreft$ off thenp^thetm continent. But who- mx fxii^xiit^ tilt y*ft 4ft*nce between Spitfljergea 5 K 2 and '!^ I 8i4 VOYAGE TO THE N^ORTH POLE^ and the neareH; parts of the northern continent, will be as much at a his to account for the fubfiilence of thefe creatures in their journey^ as in the defolate regions where they undoubtedly remain. The bear is by far the beft accommodated to the climate, of which he is an inhabitant. He is equally at home oh land and wa- ter^ and hunts diligently for his prey in both. In fum- mer he finds plenty of food from the refufe of the whales, fea-hcrfeSy and feals, which is thrown into the fea by the whalers, and cover the (bores during the time of wha- ling ; and they have befides a wonderful fagacity in fmelling out the carcafes of the dead, let them be ever fo deeply buried in the earth, or covered with ftones. The dead therefore that annuallv are buried here may contribute, in fome degree, to tne fubfiftence of a few of thefe creatures in wmter ; but the queftion will lliil recur, how the race of them fubfifted before the whale- fiftiery had exiftence, and before men found the way to this inhofpitable fliore. Difquifitions of this kind, as they are beyond the reach ot human comprehenfion, fer^ only to raife our admiration of that omnipotent Bj&ihg to whom nothing is impofijble. v;?Thefe creatures, as they differ in nothing but th;ir colour and fize from thofe commonly (hewn in Eng- land, need no defcriptioq. The foxes differ little in ihape from thofe we areacr to itfelf any thmg Staefo, that fa|«V^^rtlS aU the other fift on '^^TJ^^^^^ ^^ of a very .ndtfiere^. «-^'W.c.f««rd-f^>-^t"^X^^ ^iw of his ftapc, but »^ffromabroadflattoDe, ^. ^risfiO. trices h.i«mchoma^ proieasfrom Inkng* fro"^ "'° *" ^^ ^ oTeaa. fide, uha Ms'STand tif^Jie See «f a finger's breac0Ur& of the Wy"« '"P***^' Thefe fwelling waves f"<:«P^^'Iaroing and ragmg m I„d ^n abngVfore the wind fo^^^^^ ,^^^ ^^ 'frightful manner, f* they «« j^^ mountainous. ri«n thofe that break fcott, »?« at ^^ ^^(^gj ^a •^The? ohtetved bl«^'Si,nS, bu that h changed Ae ground was not ft»'^°"J^' ;„ fome feafons there Sace: and they 1«"^», T^f * ley were in danger of & ice, -'»^^^;^SSnot.V*''f«^™S^^^^ Sar t^lS reS^concjude Jatany^^^^^^ !SCe to the Indian ocean van ever oe ^ SSon ; for were it certain *«* .^^ ^■^^^^. «,n?u^« tbe Pole, yet gre»t b^w f^^etimes at a TffonSundit, fo'SH^:;;Stp^>Wethatchance «e«er diftance. Moreo«r. wre F ^^ ^^ ^p^n.^R ^ ock. Red-Hill, Haclmi s *^^ ^ ^ • ^.^urfe. Thele ,^';,Sks.bv wWchfeamen^^^^^^ theKeggs^e, !it&«th1»thefowls*«l^^^^^ Es'gSrnrduron^--^^^^^ VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. ti^ Hi'! If yoQ look through the fun-beams tranfverfely as you fit in the (hade, or where you fee the rays confined in a body, inftead of dark motes, as are feen here, you fee myriads of (hining particles that fparkle like diamonds ; and when the fun Ihmes hot, as it fometimes does, fo as to melt the tar in the feams of (hips when they lie (heU tered from the wind, thefe (hining atoms feem to melt away, and defcend like dew. It isfeldomthat the air continues clear Ibr many days together in this climate ; when thai happens, the whalers are generally fuccefsful. There is no aifFer- ence between night ahd day in the appearance of the at- mofphere about Spitibergen, one being as light as the other, only when the fun is to the northward, you may look at him with the naked eye, as at the moon, without dazzling. The fogs here come on fo fuddenly, that from bright lun-(hine, you are prefentlv involved in fuch obicurity, that you can haraly fee from one end of the ihip to the other. ' While our joumalift was bufy in making his obferva- •lions, all belonging to the (hips were diiferently en- gaged in one employment or othet ; fome iii taking in water, fome in filhing, fome in hunting, fonie in hand- ing the fails, and fpreading them out to dry, fome in fcrubbjng.the (hip, and fome in viewing the country. The Commanders and officers, with Mr Lyon, Mr Robihfon, &c. buded themfelves in making obferva- tions, being furni(hed with an apparatus, that is (aid to have coft at leaft one thoufand hve hundred pounds. From fuch a ftt of indruments, in the hands of the ableft obfervers the nation can boatl, fome very confiderable difcoveries in the phenomena of the polar regions inay be expeded. They landed their inftruments in a fmali ifland, in Vof^le Sound, and had feverai opportunities during their (uy of ufing them to advantage. Having erededtwo tentSy the Captains from the fi(hery frequent- ly vifited the obferver», and exprefTed their admiration, Bot only at the perfedioc of the iaftrumentSy but like>- Vol. IL--N* 47- # . 5 L . vrife V t^9 VOTAGE TO THE KORTH POM!. utife at the dexterity with which they were acccmmo dated. The ice began to let in apace, yet the weather ivi:. hot* The thern^ometer from nfty«-hx in the cabin, rofe to ' ninety in the open air. Itwasuilitendegreeshighoronthe top Ota mountain to which it was carried. The ifland on which theexperiments were made, they called Marble Ifland, from the rock by which it is formed. Having watered, and finifhed their obfervations, tlie fhips pre^ Ijared to depart. Monday, July the i gjth, the Commodore made the fignal to weigh ; at two in the afternoon the fhips were tinder fail, and as foon as they had made their o£ing, ilood to the eaftward. At three they tacked and ileer^ northward ; and before four were again entangled ' atncng the loofe ice, through which they failed, dire^ing their courft along the main body^ which lay from N* A^ toS. S. E. Tuefday tne ?oth, they continued their courfe along the ice, but could dlfcover no opening, though they fearched every creek, and left no bay or turning un- examined. This day they obferved what the ^ilors call a mock-fun, a phenomenon well enorgh known in this climate. Hacluit's Headland bore S» W. f S. forty-fix leagues ; the weather cloudy, with rain ; cxcef- live cold. Thermometer 37 d. /|.6 m. Wednefday the 21ft, the ieverity of the weather in- tr^fmg, an additional quantity of brandy was ferved out to the people, and every comfortable re&eihment afforded them, that they themfelves could wiih or re* quire. The courfe of the ire lay this day N. E*. Thurfday 2 2d, nothing remarkable. Friday the 2 3d, they faw land from E. by S. to S. E. by S. At four in the morning, Haclult's Headland bore S. £. ten leagues; the wind variable, and the weather cold, with fleet and fnow. Thermometer 40 d. Sunday 25th, they had gentle breezes, with cloudy -weather^ and were engaged among fome pieces of ice, Separated from the main body, wmcli kept them con- tinually tinu amo then COuI( agair four] the f( ftronc the C ftrong becam Moi fight o] open pi ofitsfe they fav Un's Ifla fathc.Ti ' out the I and to e Jong, vcr i hough I iiardiy fc markablfe nier to Ja^ notofoni geefe, due n^ews, roi , peculiar to "umerous, men who pn^ their £ While tl raliantoiHc Merhavim [bears makiS P the Wad pvreliing J *n in coi VOYAGE TQ THE NORTH POtE. 821 >udy con- tinually tacking and luffing. At length they entered among mountains and iflands of ice, which came upon them To fail, that it was with the utmoft difficulty tney could proceed ; the Carcafe having feveral times ftruck agunil them with fuch violence, as to radfe her head four feet out of the water. They now imagined, irom the folidity and extent of thefe iflands, that the late ftrong gales had caufed a reparation from the main body, the Commodore therefore changed his courfc with a flrong gale to the eallward ; in the morning the weather became moderate. Monday 26th, at feven in the morning, they came la fight of Red-hill, a fmall mount which commands an open plain, known by the name of Deers-field, by reafon of its fertile appearance, it being the only fpot on which they faw no drifts of friow. To the eaftward lies Muf- fin's Ifland. Here they founded, and found forty-five fathc n water ; rocky ground. Captain Lutwich fent out the long boat, with orders to found along the fhorc, and to examine the foil. This ifland is about a mile long, very low, and looks at a diftance like a black fpeck. Though the foiHs moftly fand and loofe flones, and hardly fo much as a green weed upon it, yet it is re- jnarkablfe for the number of birds that refort to it in fum- flier to lay their eggs, and breed their young ; and thefe not of one kind only, but of many different forts, as geefe, ducks, burgo-maflers, ice-birds, malamucks, kir- nicws, rotgers, and almoft every other fpecies of birds peculiar to the climate ; infomuch, that the eggs were fo numerous, and lay fo thick npon the ground, that the- men who landed found it difficult to walk without fiiU ing their (hoes. While the crew of the boat, ten in number, with their valiant officer at their head, were examining the ifland, after having founded the fliores, they obferved two white |bears making towards them, one upon the ice, the other "n the water. Major Bu2, for that was their officer's, ravelling title, like Falftaff, was always the boldeft. m in company over a cup of lack, and minded killing 5 1- a .a la-'^ ... vOTAGETOTHEKORTHTOtB.- ^^ i bear oo mbr. than Icffling *B"?»^'' i«^f^'ra«.e in Oie *p^^h very ^ftj S?o fi^ ««»« yet Oie enemy w«er.heordereah«n«n t^ ^^ tWnk.Hpr«d^tt» K them P<>'tf,S«S J&rf S^^^ obeyed orders; ^'« ^^fT when theyTiad (^^Wf depend upon a.sefemdnre, ^^ '««**•!£ Alfchareed their pieces, pij endeavoured to waatUe M&uUe^thommtbe^ Xi his companions •, but bewg iw ^ jgached £g *e iir that c»«?>^ jJ^^^Snl the ^rft^ tenofeinthe "^f^SeUwashimtbathefM^^^^ Kafonin the world to beUeve K ^ ^ ^ ^^j ^^ j,^ .^ Tnd he had fc««.rtSfhe wnfortuMJely dropt to hak. In this critical ^^^^.^ it ftumWed agamft Kun. and i- fa'^^onhrWlV »« i^« ^e dd fS », Misfortunes fc>f°°^^e»me flying to 'iie S"lw«Vl ri«\*?;^!:ilnK^dn{akinga da?t Snceof J*»bf to^««^^2^^^^ miffed his mari^ attb€eyeofth«affaiJa«t,jeryr»n 7 y^^gf^ j^e but discharged tos ft»2I*"3 ie\»X^ ferrous, the d^OT now being P«Xf ' ^v to « f«°'''* ?^''' Senear, and Ae 6«'^n«^'^?houghtithightimeto 5^»«"'t°^rfrfthdrI&/Wy^«J« leuwh to the tdtet « '"J'^ . _j ^^ the bear l«i«.t«Mn4 ^em about him, but "'f^^^ 1^ „^ over his liead, SXhb had forgot *f B*"JffinIlevelledhis piec^ ^iJ.ft '^hicb one pf the «nw h»^^ ? ^^ Ammatt^ Sed, and he fell ^** f ^"LThe recoveited h« gun, ^Vbv the death of «?i^''^%rtack of the feconii ^dffi about JO affift ^A'-^^t^sW W^ Byttotimethebe«w«toten^?^^^ .^ft.^^^ VOYAGE TO tHfi NORTH POLE. «2J felzed With a loofen6fe,dropt his accoutrements, and fell back, that he might not be in the wa^ of his party, t6 impede the engagement. In the hurry he was in, for in a man of fuch valour we muft not fay the fright, he entangled his buttons, and not being able to hold any longer, he filled his breeches. Tlie crew in an inftanf had brought down the bear, and now it was time for their leader to do fomething great. Having recovered his arms, and feeing the poor beaft grovelhng on the ground, and growling out his lad, like a ram in a pin4 fold, making a ftjort race backwards in order to redouble hisforce,hecamewithninelong ftrides forwards, and with the ftrength and fiercenefs of an enraged bull, thrufl hia lance full four feet deep in the dying bear's belly. And now, fays the Major, cocking his hat, have not I done ior the hear bravely ? The failors, who are always in a jrood humour upon fuch occafions ; But Captain, faid they, you have but half done your work, you hav^ ano- riier bear to kill yet, The Major, whofe iituation began to be troublefome, content with the honour he had al- ready acquired, My lads, faid he, as I have been the death of one bear, (ure iix of you may kill the other ; fo ordering four of them to row him on board, he left the remaining fix to kill the other bear. On this iflarid two I s were killed, and a fea-horfe, The fea-horfe made a deperate defence, being ittacke4 in the water; and had there bv.u only one boat enga-i ged in the combat, he certainly would have come off vic-s torious; but Ihe crew of the Racehorfe havi '^ learnt that there were bears and fearhorfes on this little fpot, were willing to (hare in the fport of hiinting them, aai well as in the pleafure of tafting their flefh. They ac-?' cordingjy landed in their boats, and came ir ^ood time to affiit in purfuing the conqueft. It ha. ^ ened, how- [ ever, that their ammunition beiingalmoft (jpent, one great bear came up to revenge the death of his fellows, and ad- vanced fo furiouOy, growling and barking, tliat he put; the whole company to flight, and fome of them, it i^ l&id, h^ no great reafon to iaughi i^^ ^h^ Major* - "'- ' Oil m 824 VOTAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. On founding the fhores, they remarked, that when the N. iflands bear N. forty-five £. feven or eight leagues, and Red-hill £• by S. five miles, there is generally from twenty-five to thirty fathom hard ground ; but that de- fer in ihore,when Red-hill bears Ki S. about one mile, it incrcafes to one hundred and fifteen fathom, with foft black mud. The current about one mile an hour to the N.E. Tuefday 27th, the air being perfetftly fercne, and the weather moderate, the fiflies feemed to enjoy the tempe- rature, and to exprefs it by their fporting. The whales were feen fpouting their fountains towards.the fkie8,and the fin-fifti following their example. They likewife tiil^ d2^Y faw dolphins ; the whole profpe^l in fhort was more pleafing and pidurefque than they had yet beheld in this remote region. The very ice in which they were befet looked beautiful, and put forth a thoufand glitter- ?ng forms, and the tops of the mountains, which they could fee like fparkling gems at a vaft diftance,had the appearance of fo many filver (lars illuminating a new firmament. But this flattering profped did not con- tinue long. By an accurate obiervation, they were now in latitude 80 d, 47 m. N. and in longitude 21 d. 10 m. E. from London ; and in fight of feven iflands to the N. to v/hich they direded their courfe. , Wednefday 28th, they had frefh eafterly breezes, which, from moderate weather the day before, changed to piercing cold. At midnight the weft end of Weygate ilraits bore S. by E. fo that they were now in the very foot where Barents had fuppofed an opening would be found into the polar fea. Yet fo far from it, they could ^ifcover nothing from the maft-head but a continued continent of folid ice, except the iflands already men- tioned. On this ice, however, there were many bears, fome of which came fo near the (hips as to be fhot dead with fmall arms. Thefe bears are very good eating, and where no better is to be piirchal'ed, the whalers account them as go )d as beef. They are many of them larger than the hrgeft oxen, and weigh heavier. la J . . many VOYAGE TO THE KORTH POLE, Zii tftany parts of their body they are mufket proof, and unleft ihey are jbit on the open cheft, or on the flank, a blow with a nraflcet ball will hardly make them tura their backs. Some of the bears killed in thefe encoun- ters weighed from feven to eight hrndred weight ; and it was thoueht, that the bear that routed the iaxlors on Muffin's Ifiand, could not weigh lefs than a thoufand weight. He was, indeed, a very monfter J Thurfday 29, failing among innumerable iflands of ice, they found the mam body too folid for the fiiips to make the lead impreffion upon it, and finding no opening, the Commodore relblved to fend a party un- der the command of the firft Lieutenant to examine the land, which at a diilance appeared like a plain, diverfi- tied with hills and mountains, and exhibited in their fituation a tolerable landfcape. On trying the water, ii was lefs fait than any fea wa- ter they had ever tailed ; and they found likewife, that the ice was no other than a body of congealed frefh wa- ter, which they imagined had been frozen in the infan- icy of the earth. Tuefday 30, the weather being clear, they ranclofe to [the main body of the ice, and the fun continuing to lihine, made them almoft forget the climate they were ifailing in, but it was not long before they had reafon [for fevere recolle^ion* In coading along, they obferv- Jcd many openings, and were in hopes, from their diC- ant appearance, that a paiTage might be made betweea icm ; but upon trial it was found, as the Dutch filher- len had foretold, that thefe appearances were deceitfuL ^tone in the morning fine clear fun-fhine, they founded nxieen fathom water, and found fmall ftones at bot- am. They were then about four miles from the N. E. lart of the northern mod land ; the eaflernmoft land ;n ;ht, dif^ant about five or fix leagues. Saturday 31, at midnight, the eaftemmoft land ir^ ;ht lay E. 1^. E. f E. which they could not make out be an ifland. They rather judged it to be a con- eat, but found It impci&ble to determine with cer- tainty, m tiS VOYAGE TO THfi NORTH POLE. taint^r, as it lay beyond their reach. At nine m the morning the Carcale hoifted out her cutter, and filled her empty water-calks with water from the ice. Oh this ice lie great (Quantities of fnow, and as foon as a pit is dug, it fills with fine foft clear water, not inferior to that of many land fprings. At noon they founded in ninety-five fathoms, the ground foft mud. This day a bear came over the ice to vifit them, the firft they had feen fince they left Muffin's ifland. They faluted him with a volley of fmall arms, and he returned the compli« flient, by tiirMng his back upon them. Their longitude was this day 21 d. 26 m. £• by time-keeper. TheN mometer forty-five. Sunday Auguft i j proved a day of triaU Lying to among the clofe i the gendemen defcended, and about five in the after- noon embarked again on their return tp the (hips, at which thjey arrJVed fafe about ten, after an abfence of twenty hours. They were greatly difappointed by the hazinefs of the weather on the tops of the mountains, which confined the profpedt, and prevented their taking an obfervation with the inftruments they had carried with them for that purpofe. There is here a fmall variation in the journals of the two (hips ; that kept on ' oard the Commodore making the diftance between the iHand and the (hips near twen-: ty miles; the other only* five leagues, which might eafily happen, as the ihips (hifted their ftations with the main body of ice, fometimes driving N. W. fomedme^ the contrary cour'e, as the wind and tides happened to fet. Their fituation now began to Ke ferious, and it was difcovered too late, that by grappling to the ice, as prac- tifed by the Greenlandmen, they had endangered the lofs of the (hips, the loofe ice^ clohng fo Gift about them, that they found it abfolutely inipoflible to get them dif- engaged ; and there was, befides, great reafon to fear, that one or both would foon be cruQied to pieces. Great: minds are ever moft dillinguifhed by their expedients on the moft alarming occafions. The Commodore fet all hands to work to form a dock in the folid ice, large enough to moor both fhips ; and by the alacrity with which that fervice was performed, the (hips were pre- (erv£d from the danger of immediate deftrui^ion. The (hips being thus far fecured, the officers, pilots. Vol II.--N' 47. 5 M and 82S VOYAGE TO THE NOfttM POtE. and mafters, were all fummoned on board the Commo- dore> to confult on what further was to be done in their {)ferent unpromiiingfituation ; when it was unanimouf- y agreed^ that their deliverance was hopelefs j and that they mull either provide to winter upon the adjacent iflands, or attempt to launch their boats into the open fea,* which was already at a confiderable diftance ; for the loofc^ce had poured into the bay in which they were at anchor with lo much rapidity, and in fuch aitoniih- ing quantities, that the open fea was already far out of fight. Before any thing farther was undertaken, the men were ordered to their quarters, that they might re- fresh themfelves with fleep. While their Commanders prefei-'ve their fortitude, the failors never lofe their courage. They roie in the morn- ing with as much alacrity and unconcern, as if they had been failing with a fine breeze in the Britifh Channel. Auguft 2, it was now thought advifeablc to make one defperate attempt to extricate the fhips, by cutrinc a chan- nel to the weftward into th« open fea. The icooping dut the dock with fo much expedition, by a party only of one ftiip, raifed high expectations of what might be performed by the united labours of both the crews. No body of men ever u. Jertook a work of fuch difficulty with fo much cheerfulnefs and confidence of fuccefs, as the failors obfervedon this occafion. Their ice-fa ws, axes, fledges, poles, and the whole group of fea-tools, were in an inftant all employed in facilitating the work ; hut after cutting through blocks of folid ice from eight to fifteeii feet deep, and coming to others of many fathoms that exceeded the powers of man to feparate, that was laid afidv" as a hopelefs project ; and another more pro* miiing, though not lefs laborious, adopted in its room. On the third of Auguft, after the men had again re- freflied themfelves with fleep, it was refolved to fit up the boats belonging to both the (hips with fuch cover- ings as were moft eafy to be accommodated, and of light- eft convenience ; and by floating them over the ice, en- deavour to launch them in the open fea* Could this be cffedcd, VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. 829 cfFedled, they hoped, that by failing and rowing to the northemmoft harbour of Spii{bergeni they might arrive at that ifland, before the deparlure of die laft fhips belong- ing to the filhery for Europ:. While the boats were getting ready for this expedi- tion, a fecond party were difp^tched to the ifland, with orders to take the diftance, avS QX!\di as it was poifible, to the nearefl open fea. As all the people belonging to the (hips were not to be engaged in thefe iervices, thofe who were unemployed diverted themfelves ia hunting and killing the bears, that now, attra^ed per- haps by the favoury fmell of the'provifions dreifed on board the (hips, came every day over the ice to repeat their vifits. Several of thele were killed occafionally, and this day they fought a fea-horfe, in which engagement the fecond Lieutenant of the Carcafe fignalized his cou- rage in the moft defperatfi rencounter, in which, how- ever, he Ricceeded, though his life was in imminent dan- ger. On tfie 4th the carpenters, &c. were ftill employed in fitting up the boats. The pilots, who the day before had been fent to make obfervations on the iflands al- ready mentioned, made their report, that the nearefl wa- ter they had feen was about ten leagues to the weft ward ; that in their paflTage they had met with great numbers of fpars of pine trees, floating about the ifland, fcne of thera of confiderable fize, with the bark rotted off, and the bodies much worm-eaten ; that there was neither tree nor fhrub to be feen grow'.ng on any of the feven iflands, nor upon any land that they had yet difcovered in that latitude, nor for ten degrees farther S. and that the trees they had feen muft therefore have come from a great diftance. Though there is nothing new in this obfervation, the like being annually obferved by all the navigators who frequent thofe feas in the fummer, and who colledt their wood from thofe drifts, yet the country whence they [proceed l\as hitherto been thought a myftery. But it [being now certain^ that many of the great rivers that 5 M 2 flow '83» VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. flow through the northcrnmoft parts of RufTia, empty themfelves into this Tea ; and that there is an open com- munication throughout the different parts of it at differ- ent feafons of the year, there feems very little reafon to doubt, but that thofe trees are torn up by land floods, and are precipitated into the Tea by the rapidity df the Iftreams. . It has indeed been objefted, that all the wood that is found floating in this manner about the iHands in high latitudes, is to a piece barked and worm-eaten ; and that If thefe trees were torn up and precipitated into the fea in the manner above fuppofed, fome of it would appear found and unbarked, as in its firil ilate. To this it may be anfwered, that were the courfe of the tides to run as conftantly to the northward, as the courfe of the rivers runs into the fea, this objedlion would be unanfwerablc* But the very reverfe is known to be the fafl: j find that neither the winds nor the tides tend to the northwards for any confiderable part of the year ; fo that from the time thefe trees enter the ocean, it muft, in the ordinary Courfe of things, be many ages before they can reach the latitudes in which they are now found, ibecaufe, if they af6 driven northwards by the flrength of a ftorni from the S. they will be driven in another direction by the tiext ftorm that happens from another quarter ; and all the whik the calm continues, they will be driven to and fro by the tides, which, as has been obferved, feldom fet ibiig to the N. therefore, being in continual motion for iijjes, or being caft upon the fhore by tempefls, or high tid^, and lying there expofed to the air, till tempefts or high tides return them again to the ocean, they will, in a Idflgprdgreilioh of time, be reduced to the flate in which th^y are conftantly found. This folution is, however, offered with diffidence. The fadt is certain, of much Vrbod being annually found about the iflands in queftion; ^n() It is of little importance whence it proceeds, as a , baflkge by the N. E. to China will probably never morel Ite fought, (in the 5th they had gentle breezes ^ but about four * ia VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. «3* in the morning fmall fleet. The ice flill furrounding them, and appearing to grow more and more folid and fixed, thofe who had till now retained hopes that the S. £. wind would again difunite its fubdance, and open a pafTage for their deliverance, began to defpair, as th^ wind had blown for twenty-four hours from that quar* ter, from which alone they could have relief, and not the leaft alteration to be perceived. The men, however, were as joyous as ever, and (hewed not theleailconcera ihout the danger of their (ituation. Early in the morning, the man at the maft-head of the Carcafe gave notice, that three bears were making their way very fall over the ice, and that they were di* redting their courfe towards the (hip. They had, with- out gueftion, been invited by the Icent of the blubber of the iea-hbrfe killed a few days before, which the mea had fet on fire, and which was burning on the ice at the time of their approach^ They proved to be a (he-beat arid her two cubs ; but the cuds were nearly as large ai the dam. They ran eagerly to the fire, and drew out from the flames part of the fle(h of the fea-horfe that remained unconfumed, and eat it voracioufly. Thd crew from the (hip, by way of diverfion, threw great lumps of the flelh of tne fea-horfe which they hadftiH left, out upon the ice, which the old bear fetched away fingly, kid e:ach lump before her cubs as (he brought it- and dividing it, gave each a (hare, referving but a fmall portion to herfelf. As (he was fetching away the lall piece they had to bellow, they levelled their mufquets at the cubis, and (hot them both dead ; and in her retreat, they alfo wounded the dam, but not mortally. It would have drawn tears of pity from any but unfeeling minds, to have marked the aflfe^tionate concern exprelTed by this poor be^ft, in the dying moments of her expiring young. Though (he was forely wounded, and dould out juft crawl to the place where they lay, (he carried the lump of fle(h (he had fetched away, as Oie had done thd others before, tore it in pieces, and laid it down before ihena, aad whea Ibe faw that ^hey rsfufed to cat, (he laid S3 2 VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. laid her paws firfl upon one, and then upon the other, and endeavoured to raile them up. All this while it was pitiful to hear her moan. When (he found Ihc could not ftir them, (he went off, and when (he had got at fome diftance, looked back and moaned ; and that not availing her to entice them away, (he returned, and fmelling round them, began to lick their wounds. She ■went On a fecond time, as before, and having crawled a few paces, looked again behind her, and for fome time ftood moaning. But ftill her cubs not rifmg to follow her, (he returned to them again, and with figns of inex- preflible fondnefs, went round one and round the other, pawing them, and moaning. Finding at laft that they were cold and lifelefs, fhe raifed her head towards the ihip, and, like Caliban in the Tempeft, growled a curfc upon the murderers, which they returned with a volley ot murqiict-balls. She fell betw^een her cubs, and died licking their wounds. If what is related by a voyager of credit in the laft century be true, the filial fondnefs of thefe animals- is no lefs remarkable than the maternal. .The young ones, fays he, keep conftantly clqfe to the old ones. We obferved that two young ones and an old one •would not leave one another, for if one ra-^ "way, it jturned back again immediately, as loon as it heard the others in danger, as if it would come to help them. The old one ran to the young one, and the young one to the old one ; and rather than they would leave one another, they would fufFer thcmfelves to be all killed. Friday the 6ih, the weather calm, but foggy, and the winds variable ; they difcovered that the drift of the fhip with the whole body of ice, inclined faft to the eaflward ; and that they were already embayed in the very middle jDf the feven iflands. They therefore fent off the pilots of both fhips, with a party of failors, to the northernmoll liland, to fee what dilcoveries could be made from the promontories there. They returned at nicht, after a fatiguing journey, with a difmal account, that nothing 5\^as to be .feen from thence but a vaft continent of ice, (pf whicl> there was no end j and that the thought of . ' . 'VyiQtering were a weathe in orde good fc an oper provific m delivi and in j take aloi VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. f3i kter a ^thmg )f ice, khtof »rit\g wintering in fuch a lituation was more dreadful, than that of periftiing by inftani death. Saturday 7, the wind fet in N. N. E. veered to the N. to the N. E. and E. piercing cold. This day the boata were all brought in readinefs on the ice, fitted with weather clothes about thirteen inches above the gunnels, in order to keep off the cold as much as poffible, if by good fortune they (hould be enabled to launcli rhem in an open fea. They were employed chiefly in boiling provifions to put in the boats tor the intended voyage ; in delivering out bags to the men to carry their bread, and in packing up luch neceirurles as every one could take along with him ; for now every man was to he his own porter, the necefTary provifions and liquors being found load enough for the boats, and twenty-live days bread load enough for each man. This being acijufted, when night approached they were all ordered on board to fleep. Thurfday 8, at fix in the morning all hands were ordered to turn out, and a detachment of fifty men from each fhip, headed by their refpedive officers, were ap- pointed to begin the hard tafk of hauling the launches along the ice. The bravefl and gallantefl adions per- formed in war, do not fo ftrikingly mark the true cha- rader of a fea Commander, as the readinefs and alacrity I with which his orders are obeyed in times of imminent danger. Every one now ftrove who ihould have the Ihonour to be lifled in the band of haulers, of whom the [Commodore took the diiedion, leaving Capt. Lutwycli Itotake care of botl^the fl" ips, that if any favourable turn ]hould happen in the dilbofition of the ice, he might pake *'fe ot the remaining part of both the crews to im- )rove it. Upon a general confultation of officers, prc-^ fious to this undertaking, it had been agreed, and an frder iffued accordingly, tliat no perfon on board, of whatever rank, (hould encumber himfelf with more lothes than what he wore upon his back. Upon this ccafion, therefore, the officers dreffed themielves in mnels, and the common n.en put on the clothes which - the. #34 VOYAGE TO THE J^OI?TH TOLE. Ihe officers had thrown off. It \^as inconceivably laughable to fee thefe motley bands yok ed in their new harnefs ; and, to fay the truth, there was not one foleran fece among the two companies. That headed by the Cc>mmodore drew ftoutly for the honour of their leader and that headed by their Lieutenants had their mufic to, play to them, that they might dance it away, and keep pace with the Commander in chief. Indeed the officers who headed them were defervedly beloved as well as ^eir Commanders, particularly Lieutenant Beard,whofe ileady and uniform conduct: in times of the greateft dan- ger, cannot be fufficiently admired or applauded. Nei- ther fwayed by paffion, nor difconcerted by the fudden cmbarraiTments that often intervened, his condudl was always calm, and his orders refolute. He never was heard, during the whole voyage on the moft preffing emergencies, to enforce his commands with an oath, or to call a failor by any other than his ufual name ; and fp feniible were they of his manly behaviour, that, when the fhip was paid off at Deptford, they were only pre- vented by his moft earned requeft from ftripping them- Teives to their fhirts, to cover the ftreets with their clotiies, that he might not tread in the dirt in going to take coach. in fix hours, with the utmoft effijrts of human labour, they had only proceeded a fingle miie ; and now it was tjme for them' to dine, and recruit their almoft exhaufted fpirits. As the Commodore had laboured with them, it was in charaAer that he (hould dine with them alio; a^d an accident happened that mad<=; it neceffary for himj lib to do. The Cook, with his mates, (who were bring- ingthe Commodore and the officers their dinners under covers) to keep out the cold after coming from a waraj firc-fide, had niade a little too free ^ith the brandyf botde before they fet out, and before they had got hafl way to the launches, the liquor began to operate ; the/ Cooks were fometimes very near boarding each otherj (ometimes they hauled off*, aud fomedmes fleered righ a}]^d« At length coming to a chiaim^ or parting of tii icfi Vol. ttl VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. 835 ice, which they were obliged to leap, down came the mailer Codk, with difh, cover, meat and all ; and what was dill worfe, though it was not then thought of much value, the Cotnmodore's common fervice of plate, which the Gook carried for the officers to dine on, fell in the chafm, and inftantly funk to the bottom. This accident brought the Cook a little to himfelf, and he now flood paufmg whether he (hould jump down the gulph after the plate, or proceed to the Commodore to beg mercy, and make his apology. His mates perfuaded him to the latter, as the Commodore was a kind hearted gemman, and would never take a man's life away for a flip on the ice. Befides it was a great jump for a fat man, and Commodore, they were fure, had rather lofe ^11 the plate in the great cabin, than lofe Cookie. Com- forted a little by this fpeech, the Cook proceeded, but let his mates go on firft with what remained, to carry the tidings of what befel the reft. When the Com- modore had heard the ftory, he judged how it was with them all. Bui where is the Cook, faid he to the mates ? He's crying behind, an' pleafe your Honour. In thq mean time the Cook came up. Cook^ faid the Com- modore, bring me your dinner. I will dine to-day with my comrades. My dinner ! Ay, a pound of fiefh next my heart, if your Honour likes it. The promptnefs of the reply (hewed the fmcerity of the Cook's good-will, and pieafed the Cnmmodore better than a leaft upoii turtle. He dimiflfed him with a fmile, and partook with the officers in what was left, who made up their din- jiers with a mefs irom the common men. They had jull begun to renew their labour, when word was brought, that the whole body of ice had changed its lituation, and was moving to the weftward ; that the ihips were both a-fioat : and that the ice was parting. Thejoy which this news diffufed through the iwo conipanies of haulers is eafier to conceive than cx- prefs. They inftantly (hook off their harnefs, ran to afTift in working the (hips, and once more f. relume their pijoper emnloyments. When they arrived at the Vol. IWN- ^,7.' 5 N Ihips, Sfflupon them «8rif a5 wewl(Kedtogf^^5 C'lnff once more releaieo uv vigour. IV^^n^..^ VOYAGfi TO THE J^ORTH POlI »3> advantage of the breeze to force them through the chah« nels that were already opened, and to help them, likfe Wecjges, to rend the clefts that Were but juft crackmg. A?vhile the major part of the crews Were employed in warping the fliips With ice-anchors, axes, fa ws,and poles, a party from both fhips were difpatched to launch thd boats. This was no eafy taik to accomplifh. The ice, though fblit in many thoiifand pieces, was yet frozen like an iftarid r^^tind the launches, and though it was of no great extent, yet the boats were of a weight hardly to be moved by the fmall force that could be fpared to launch theiii. They were befides, by the driving of the ice, at more than rive miles diftance from the (hips j and at this time no chahnels of communication Were yet opened. But Providence was manifeft even on this" occanpri ; for the ifland on which the launches ftood, f)arted while the men were hauling them, and by that ucky circumdahce they were launched with great faci- JiCjr, without the lofs or a man, though the kt cracked^ as it were, under their feet. The people on board had not been able to force their way wit h the ftiips much more than a mile, wheii the party in the launches joined them. And now, excited by what curiofity or inftindt is not eafy to determine, feveral bears came polling over the ice to be fpe^tors of their departure, and aovanced fo near the (hips, that they might have been eafily mattered, had not the* men been more ferioufly employed. This day they altered their foundings from thirty to fifty fathoms, and from fifty to eighty and eighty five fathoms. The breeze continuing frefh from E. S. E. and E, the ice feemed to open aS faft as it had before clofed when the wind blew weftetly, and from the N. a ftrong prefumptive proof of land to the eaftward, which ftop* ping the current of the loofe ice in driving from the N. and W. clofes it in of courfe, and renders it compact. On the contrary, when the wind blows off the land, iaad A? current fetstothe lea, the loofer ice being-no lon- 5 N a ger «3» VOYAGE TQ THE NORTH POLK. ger^oppofed, difperfes itfelf again in the ocean, where It a^ain floats^ till the fame caule produce? the fame effect. If therefore the land which our voyagers {aw on th^ 30th, an4 which they coi^ld t^ot determine with certain- ty to be an ifland, (hould, tipon fon[ie futqre pccafionj, be difcQvered to be a continent, then the doling of the loole ice fo fuddenly ahovlihe/ev.^n ijlandsy and its crpud-r ing one piece upon another to a great height, whtr^ violently agitated by tempefts from the N. or W. will be fully and naturally accounted for, - Tuefday the loth, about two in the moruing, the fog being thick, and the weather calm, and the men very much fatigued, they were ordered to their quarters, iq r^fr^fh themfelyes with fleep< It was, befides, very cold, and much rain fell ; and as the wind was variable, they could rnake but little progrefs, The ice, in the tnoruing early, feerned rather to clofe upon them, than, to divide ; and being apprehenfiye for their boats, they, attempted tohoift the launches onboard, but that belong- ing the Carcafe, being either too unwieldy, or the men too much flitigued to effeft it, they flung her to the ijiip'sfide. About eight the breeze fprung up frefli from the N. E. exceedingly cold, but opening the ice to the weil- ward. T^ey then made all the fail they could, driving VfJXh the looiening ice, arid parting it wherever it was nioyeable with their whole force. Towards r^oon they loft fight of the Seven JJlands, Aqd in a very little while after, to their great joy, Spitfbergen was feen from the iriaft-head. \Vednefday i ith, the men who, with hard labour^ cold and vyratchiag, were much dilpirited, on the prof- pe^ of a fpeedy deliverance, and leeing the ice adhere in immoveable bodies, began, after a little refre(hment, to reium? their wonted cheerfulnefs. They had not' till the fecond clofing of the ice, alter the attempt to^ dig a pai&ge through it had proved ineffedhial, and that the hauling the launches had been tried with little better fiiccefs, diicovered the leail defpondcncy. But wher^ .t..v, . ....... . ., ..... ^^^^ VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. 8^ they had exerted their utmoft efforts, and Providence, which at firft feemed to fecond their endeavours, ap- peared to have forfaken them ; when their pilots had filled their minds with the terrors of their fituation ; and their pfHcers had given the fhips and their moft valuable efit:«£ts over for loft, the men then began to reflef!: on the hard(hips they were likely to fuffer, and to be im^ prefled with tli'e fenfe of their common danger. Their apprehenfionfe, however, were but teniporary, and the moment they were releafed from their icy prifon, and that they were within figb.t of a clear fee, their forrow was changed to piirth, ind their melancholy to rgoicing, FelUvity and jollity tuok place of ablHnence and gloomy apprehenfions ; and before they arrived at Spitffiergen, there was not a failor on board v^ith a ferious face. The ice that had parted from the main body, they had now time to admire. As it no longer obftru£ted their courfe, the various (hapes in which tne broken fragments appeared, were indeed very curious and amufmg. One remarkable piece defcribca a magnificent arch, fo large corppletely formed, that a floop of confiderable bur-P den might have failed through it without lowering her laft ; another reprefented a church with windows and lillars, and domes ; and a third, a table with icicles hang- ng round it like the fringes of a damafk cloth. A fertile magination might here find entertainment enough; ;or, as has already been obferved, the fin^ilitvide of all lat art or riature has ever yet produced, might here be ncied. They continued working all this day through the ofe ice ; Hacluit's Headland bearing S. thirty-nine 1^ a^d in their courfe faw a Dutch Greenlandman in e S. W. quarter. Thurlday the 1 2th, they cleared the ice, and bore ay with all fails fet for the harbour of Smearingburg, which they had before caft anchor. At two in the eraoon they anchored in North Bay, the N. part of gle Sound, bearing N. forty-five E. diflance about r miles. At half after four the Commodore made the tio vovAGE t6 rUt i^ofetS 1?dtt. the figttal to weigh ; and at half paft nine, Cafrtic t6 an anchor in their forrtief ftatron, vrhctt they fduiid four J>utch Greenlandrtieh lying iti readinefs id ddpan.—- ^. Thefe Dutchmen acqoaintwl the Commodore, that all the Blnglilh fifliing mips (et fail on the loth of July, the day to which they are obliged by coritradfc toftay, to entitle their owners to receive the bounty- money allowed by Parliament for the encouragement of that iilhery. About the fame time the greateft pan of the Dutch fet fail Ukewife from Spitfbergen, on their voyage home; bat it is a practice with thefe laft, to take it by turns to "Wait till the feverityofthe weather obliges them to leave the coaft, in order to pick up fuch men as may by acci- dent have loft their fhips in the ice ; and who, notwith* ftanding, may have had the good fortune to fave their lives by means of their boats. This is a very humane inftitution, and does credit to the Dutch Government, Did the Btitifh Government bear an equal regatd for Indiiriduals, fo many valuable fubje^ts would never be faffered to migrate, as novir continually hire (hips to, convey themfelves to feek their fortunes in htvt fetde^| liicnrs. It is eftimated, that twelve thoufand at le are yearly (liipt off from Ireland, and not many lef^ from England and Scotland, yet no^ieafufesaie thougl jiecefTary to be taken to iretain them at home. The turn of waiting at Spitftergen falls annually ti the bt of about five Dutdi Ihips, who are obliged tflHhaveVaile fend out their boats daily in. fearch of their unfonunatBtom-^ fellow fubjeds ; fome of thefe boats have themldveMhe conti foffercd feverely, and have been detained fcveh or cigl days by r^^'ere weather in thefe excurlions, to the grei anxiety ot cheir friends. The tJHy of our voyagers return to Smearingbui Harbour being fine, the Commodore oruered a tentti |)e raiied on the lower point to the S. W. where thi was a level plain for the fpace of two miles, and win gli the mathematical apparatus Were? again taken ihore for a lecond trial, Th. I^ndu Harrij hours j Varied the obi to Con does he careful were m The< fiderabU fre/hmei HaeJu quently , on the h in circun grafs; ac iwo to fh Bier, on v The pe ing the ri ter,peyin| ihips tot that was On the chor, and On the! tOYAGli to THE mwtn ?Qt% «4f 3) an four [till (uly. ftay, oncy ;that )utch Lome; rmto ) leave f accw t their umant ntnent, They fjund, on the examination of the vibrgtionof th« nendukun, that it differed from that s^ Greenwich, b|» Hanriion^s time^-keeper, only twofeconds in forty-eight hours; ishich time-keeper^ at their arrival at Green wi<:h, varied only one fecond and a half from the time*:piec€6 at the obfprvatGry there* Mr Robinfon, who was articled to Commodore Phipps,frona Clirifl's Hospital, and who does honour tp that noble foundation, >vas partieuladf careful to note the refult of all the obiervatiops that were made in this high latitude. The ovens were alfo here taken on (l>orc, and a cofv» fiderable quantity of good foft bread baked for the r(H freflament of the men. Haeluit'fi Headland, of which mention ha3 heen fre-^ quently made in the courfe of this voyage, is m ifland on the N. W. point of Spitfbergen, about fifteen mile* in circumference, on which is found plenty of fcutyy^ grafs ; and in the valleys, fome of which extend from two to ihre^ miles, there is flore of other grafs iu fum- ;ard fori mer, on which the deer is fuppofed to feed., ever bel 1 he peopde v«ere now fully employed in overhaul-^ hips tolbg the rigging, tarring the ihip's fides, taking in wa-» ' leltlwl ter, peying and fecuring the mafts, and in preparing the; at leaffl {hips for purfuing their voyage !jpon difcovery ; or, if ihat was found impra£licable, for returning home. On the 1 6th, two of the Dutch (hips weighed ati-. clior, and (ailed away in company. On the 1 7th, vaft pieces of broken ice, fuppofed ta )liged ttBhave fallen from the icebergs, came floating into har-» ormmtHbour. When thefe pieces, which are undermbed by lie continual agitation of the fea in ftormy weather^ lofe their fupport, they tumble with a crack that fur-. affes the loudeft thunder: but they were told, that other thunder was ever heard in this latitude* The adivity and enterpriiing fpirit of the Rufliaos ilready noticed, begin to manifeft itfelf every where^ d u is not improbable, but that the maritime powers ay one day or other have ca.uie to repent their emu- iea in coiUiihutiag to aggrandize the naval power of V that any lefi thotigl lually td e 1 or cigl the giei irit)gb«i a tentti liere tb nd will laken ■ §4^ VOYAGE TO TtlE NORTH POLE. that increafmg people* The dominions of the Ruflian empire, are htuated to command the trade of the uni-^ verle ; they are now a^ually ere certain weather ; fqually, and at times much rain ; at [three great fog. This day, at noon, Flamborough-head |S. forty-fix W. diftance thirty leagues. September 1 5, light breezes, and clear weather ; out all reefs, and fwayed up the lower yards. At four in [he afternoon faw a fail toS. E. bore down and brought itx to. She proved to be a Pruffiaa fiiherman, had 5 O 5 been «4^ VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. been ten days from Edinburgh ; hoifted out the fmall cutter ; the fecond Lieutenant went on board of her, and bought a fine cargo of filh. At five the boat re- turnecT; we hoifted her on board, with plenty of mac- karel and herrings. Mad^fail, and flood to S. W. founded every half hour j found from thirteen to fifteen and eighteen fathoms, fine bro>yn fand, mixed wirh blick Shells. At feven in the evening took the firfl reef, and hauled in the top-fails ; frefh gales, and cloudy, At two in the mornmg deepened, in water to twenty fathom. Took in fecond reef of the top-fails ; tacked fhip, and ftood to N. W. At five in the morn- ing got into fifteen fathom ; and at feven into ten. At nine in the morning clofe reefed the top-fails, and at ten handed them ; very frefh gale, and violent rain. September 1 6, rather more moderate; fet the main- top-fail ; Tqually, with rain ; a confiifed fea from W. N, \V. At five in the afternoon foundings from five to twelve, from twenty-fcven to thirty-two and thirty-four fathoms, fine brown fand, black fpecfes; frefh ^ales and cloudy. At eight took in firfl and fecond reefs of top- fails ; at eleven at night clofe reefed the main and fore- top-^ail, and handed the mizcn ; frefh gales, and cloudy weather. At four in the morning flioaled water to twenty-two fathoms; brown fand and broken flielis. At live faw feveral fail to N. W. fired, and brought one of them to. At eight fhook the firft and fecond reefs out of the top-fail ; hove down upon a floop, which came from Gravefend ; took on board the mafler, as a pilot to carry the fhip through Yarmouth Roads ; put on board one man in his room, and ordered his yeflel to follow us. Stofxito tbefourhward. September 17, frefh breezes, and cloudy weather; kept the lead going every half ho^r; found our found- ing from ten to twelve fathoms, fine brown fand. At fix in the afternoon frefh gales ; clofe reefed the main- top-fail ; ibundings from ten to fixteen fathom ; brokcnj fhells and large flones. At feven clofe reefed the main- top-fail i kept a light la the poop Unthorn for the Hoop. ' - * * ' At Att( der nigh and I veffel mlzei blew wind ther n reefed thefif] had ff land b ven be reefs 01 faw Gr five Jea Sept€ the fhee bower-c anchor. flood tc the N. \ VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. t0 At ten ftrong gales ; handed the top-falls ; laid her to un- der the main-fail ; handed the fore-fail. At eleven it night got into five fathom ; but deepened to eight, nine, and ten fathom, brown fand. Loft fight of the fi(hing^ vefTel ; fired feveral guns, and made a fignal* in the mizen-fhroud. On fetting the fore-top- fail ftay fail, it blew to pieces; bent a new one. A violent cale of wind ; (hipped a great quantity of water. At mur ra- ther moderate ; fet the fore- fail. At midnight fet clofe reefed top-fails. At half pad fix tacked ; at feven faw the fifhing velTel ; bore down and fpoke with her, whai had fplit Tier main-fail in the night. At ten -"^w the land bearing S. W. by W. and S and by W. At ele- ven being clear and moderate weather, Ihook all the. reefs out of the top-fails, and fet the tiuvgallant fail ; faw Cromer light-houfe, bearing S. ^^ a. W. dillance five leagues. September 19, fre(h breezes and clear weather ; bent the Iheet-cable, and hauled a range of the beft and fmall bower-cables ; bent both buoy- ropes and buoys to the anchor. At five light breezes and fair; tacked and ftood to the fouthward. At fix tacked and ftood to the N. W. Cromer N. W. and by N. lour miles ; light breezes, and pleafant weather ; handed in top-gallant fails, and handed the tnain-fail. At feyen in the eveu- ing, to our great joy, faw Yarmouth church, bearing S. W. At ten at night came to anchor with the beft bower in twelve fathom, fine fand and clay, veered out to half a cable, and handed all the iails. Winterftone Nefs lights bore S. and by \V. four miles. At two in the morning frefh breezes and cloudy. At half pall: four weighed, and made fail. Employed in working from Winterftone Nefs lights to Yarmouth Roads, ma- king feveral tacks. At feven in the morning fet top- gallant-fails ; at nine came to an anchor in Yarmouth Road, with beft bower in feven fathoms water ; fand and clay. Yarmouth church S. fifteen W. diftatUce two miles. Came ou board a oilot to carry the fhitt ^otheNor?, ^ejptcfflbcif I I t48 VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. September 20, frefti breezes and clear weather; fent down top-gallant-yards, and got every thing clear for llriking tokens. At five in the afternoon moored the fhip. Yarmouth chuich W. S. W. two miles. Sepumber 21, frefli gales and clbudy, with frequent rain. At four in the afternoon fent down top-gallant- maft. At eight in the morning fent the long-boat on ihore for water. We were this day vilited by feveral of the inhabitants of Norwich and Yarmouth, who were genteelly entertained by the officers, but we could gtc no intelligence of the Commodore. September 23, dark cloudy weather. At fix in the cvehing fwayed up the top-maft, and lower yards ; the wind veered to N. W. we prepared to unmoor. Frefh gales, with frequent flafhes of lightninj^. At feveii in the morning fet on top-gallant-maft, and began to un- moor. At eight veered away upon the heft bower, and took up the fmall bower anchor. At nine weighed and made fail. At ten got up the top-gallant-yards, in com^ pany with feveral mips. Satuiday 25, at five came to an anchor in eleven fathoms. Orford light-houfe E. by S. four miles. This day fome religious books were didributed among the failors, which had been fent on board by fome pious perfon for their particular perufal. Sunday 26, at fix in the evening came to with the beft bower in feven fathoms water ; Balfey church \V. by S. At two in the morning weighed, and came to fail ; Harwich lights N. W. by W. To their great fur-. prife, faw the Racehorfe at anchor. Hoifted out the cutter, and Capt. Lutwytch waited on the Commodore, from whom he learnt, that in the ftorm of the twelfth they had all their boats wafhed overboard ; and, to eafe the fhip, were obliged to heave all their guns over-board, except two. Came to anchor ; Harwich church N. W. Monday 27, at two in the afternoon weighed, and eame to fail in company with the Racehorfe. At eight in the evening came to in the Swin. At five in the ^prning weighed, in company as before. Turning up 5h0 the, N.^ Ti halfj fix c Shoe came foreni order! Nore We half p workii thebei Woolv alongfi, . Thui ting ou evening a large t fhrouds, Ing cam« Bedford and beg; Thus mined navigatic Wood hi l^e found! From ^ith in U that the ; the Pole^ either a < ^^Ikd up ^t has ^^'gable al Hecondde) that in fo/ II VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLS. 849 the Swin at half pad nine, came to ; Wiiitakcr Beacon N. N. E. one mile. Tuefday 28, frefh breezes and cloudy weather. At half paft three weighed, and came to fail. At half pad fix came to with the bell bower in fix fathom water ; Shoe Beacon N. W. At half paft five weighed, and came to fail. Working to windward at eleven in the forenoon, the Gpmmodore's boat came on board, with orders to proceed to Deptford. At noon came to at the Nore with the beft bower. Wednefday 29, light breezes and fair weather. At half paft five weighed, and made fail. Employed in workmg up the river. At half paft ten came to with the beft bower in the Gallions, in three fathoms water. Woolwich church N. by S. f E. At noon a hoy came ■■> alongfide for the gunner's ftores. Thurlday 30, employed moft of the afternoon in get- ting out the guns, and gunner's ftores. At nine in the evening weighed, and came to fail. At ten run foul of a large tranfport, and carried away the larboard mizen- Ihrouds, and part of the channel. At one in the morn- ing came 10 anchor at Deptford. Warped alongfide the Bedford Hulk, and moored. At fix unbent the fails, and began to unrig. Thus ended a voyage, which feems to have deter- mined the queftion fo much agitated concerning the navigation to the North Pole, and proved what Captain Wood had before aflerted, that no pafTage would ever be found practicable in that direction. From the quantities of ice which that navigator met with in latitude 76 N. he concluded, indeed erroneoully, that the ^oth degree would bound the paffage towards the Poles, and that from tl^ence the Polaf region was cither 9. continued continent of folid ice, or that land filled up the intermediate fpace. It has been found, however, that thofe feas are na- vigable as far as between the eighty-firft and eighty- iecond degrees of latitude ; and it may poilibly happen, [that in fomc future years, they may be found navigable ;,., VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE- Le to China =?^ J^P^.^'^'XaXg the opportm.Uy ealty by a H E. .«°"7r "J, the north fea is open. But vho wottld thmk of «P°"";ff^ in a tedious, uncertain, tozard of being frozen to death m ^^^^^^^ *|?om Behring's difcoveries to^J^ SrefelX r£ to believe, '^^'Vl'i'wnlflaSls, might be a continua- the eaaward of the Seven lUat^ . J .^ .^ ,^pro. tion of that =°n?ff;Hi continent may oin to the ^le, but A^/f^^.J'forXt it tnay extend fouth- ^eftern part of Amer.ca,^or^ ^^^^j^^^t fo ^uch fought XfCiS^^^-^^!'^:^,,, thoufand pounds. A fmall premium of two or t ^^ ^^^ fccured by P-'-^^^SJfiK (hip. that (hovdd be owners of any G'^^eniano & _^ comment to the fortunate enough «o^.1covct j^^^x migl>t pof- eaftward or northward ot the ^ / enfive expedi- Sowed. , , ,, ,, .t,. reward fecured by Parlia- " It is true, indeed. »)«« f/j^^^v. paffage, has not yet roent for the <^'^T2flccth\nih which the pto- Zer. ^^ri'iT^jtr^A^i^^-^ and the pubk tnoters of the bill had ha"^"^^, • u j^ ^as granted. . from the liberal fpint with which it s ^^^ i * The Hudfon's Bay Co-nP^^^f^^lVcovery, were chatter to further and Promote mc ^^amM VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. «Si generally fufpe^ed, from ititerefted motives, to oppofe and difcoiirage every attempt to accomplifti it. And Captain Middleton, who in 1740 was fent in a king's {h\p upon that Service, returnmg without fuccefs, ^yas publicly charged with having received a bribe of five thoufand pounds to defeat the undertaking, and by his report to difcourage any farther attempts in purfuit of it. This charge was ftrongly fupported, and generally credited ; and Mr Dobbs, by whofe intereft Captain Middleton was employed, had the addrefs to prevail with the then miniftry, to preclude any future fcheme of private corruption, by promoting the public reward already mentioned. The preamble to the a£t will ftate this matter in the true light ; it fets forth, " That, whereas the difcovery of a N. W. paflage through Hudfon's Streight to the weftern ocean would be of great benefit and advan- tage to this kingdom, and that it would be of great ad- vantage to the adventurers to attempt the fame, if a public reward was given to fuch perfons as fhould make a perfect difcovery of the (aid paflage ; it is therefore enadled, that if any fhips or veflels belong- ing to his Majefty's fubjeds fhall find out and fail through any paflage by fea between Hudfon's Bay " and the weftern ocean of America, the owners of fuch fliips or veflels fhall be entitled to receive as a reward for fuch difcovery the fum of Twenty thousand Pounds." And as a farther encouragement to pro- fecute this difcovery, and to prevent obftrudions rrom interefted perfons, it was enacted, " that all perfons, fubjedls of his Majefty, refiding in any place where the faid adventurers may come in the profecution of this difcovery, (hall give the faid adventurers all aflift- ance, and ftiall no way obftrudl:, moleft, orrefufe the " faid adventurers reafonable fuccour in any diilrers '* ihey may fall into in the profecution of this dif- " covcry. Such was the encouragement, and fuch the liberal reward that was and is fecured by Parliau»wnt to the for- Vol. n.~N»47. S P tunatc ii ct (( u ii ii C( it .11, 85* .J VQYAGE TO TH£ NORTH POLE. tunajtc difcoverers of a N. W. paflage to the Great Pacific Ocean j a pa0age which, U jbj generally believ!^, would open a trade with nations on the northern continent of AmeiciCii, wholly unknown to the miaritime powers of £iirope> and fuppofed, from their fituation, tp abound in commodities equally rare and precious with thofe of iWypther country under the fun. The fair prolpe(3; of acquiring fame by enlarging commerce, the hope of obtaining the parliamentary re- ward, and tbiB defire of expofing the difingenuity of Captain Middleton, were ippirements fuflicient to ire- vail with Mr pobbs to folicit the equipment of two mips for anothor voyage, which he made not the lead douDt would fiwd out the paflage fo long fought fpr in vain, and by the advantages attending the difcovery, exceed the nioft fapguine expedations of th^ adventurers. The command of this expedition was given to Cap- tain Ellis, who, on the 3 1 ft of May, i y[40, paiTed Yar^ mouth In the Dobb's Galley* accompanied by the Ca!i- iqrnisi floop, and convoyed to the North Sea ny the Loo man of war. But in proportion as Mr Pobbs had flattered the avarice of the adventurers who were to &are in the reward, and had elated himfelf with the thoughts of triumphing over the difgrace of Captain Middleton, fo it happened, that when the (hips returned without havip^ eftedted any one thing of confequence, the cljagr n of the former for having advanced their money on a vifionary project, and the mortification of the latter in not bein^ able to fupport his charge* were increafed by^ every circumftance that could aggravate the difappomtment. Captain Middleton now triumph^ cd in his turn, and no (hip from England has fincc been induced to undertake the voyage, notwlthllanding (he greatnefs of the reward. It is now, however, believed* that Government have in contemplation another voyage to the north, to which that of Captain Phipps was only the prelude ; bi .£ there is reafon to conclude, froni what has already been faid pf thefe later attempts, and from the ill fuccels of former undertakings, VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POLE. •53 tiridertsikirigs, that the difcdvcry of a N. W. paflage h not the fole objed in view. The figure of the earth, ths phsenpmenai of the winds, the variation of the com- pafs, and the attraction Of tne magnet, are points yet Uiifetded, of infinite importance to na;'.gation ; and it Is not impofUble, but that a more careful examination of the polar regions may lead to the folution of prob- lems, that have hitherto baffled the enquiries of the ableft navigators. ' A very flender acquaintaince with the difficulties and hardfhips attending northern difco"/ varies, will fully ac- count for our knowledge of the cc ntries furrounding the Pole being ftill very impertedl. A brief recapitu-* lation of the mfFerings of thofe to, whom we are moft indebted for our information, will not, we hope, be thought an improper conclufion to a voyage fdely ut)>* dertaken with a view to enlarge it. The firft who conceived the idea of exploring the northern regions was Sebaftian Cabot, That enter* prizing navigator^ long before Magellati thought of a paflage to the Pacific Ocean by the S. W. had made two voyages, with a view to diredi his courfe to the fame fea by the N. W. In thefe voyages, he difcovered New- foundland, the coaft of the Elquimeaux indians,and had penetrated as far as the 64th degree of ktitude, when a mutiny among his men, or rather an obftinate refufal to proceed any further, obliged him to return ; yet he died in the perfuafion that a paflage in that direod in a day or "n'' *"'^"''.'* ^"^^^ Ae natives who came to t«te. ^° .'^^''^ ^'fired bv fi-l to the weftwar^' ^idU^the^.VS" ,[4* ^ey fot ourfeto the fouthward! On t£ Jh'^k'^''*"?^^ thefr ,' ^^"'"""tory to the R W VhS V^^J^ 48. ^ sQ^ determine IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I IM Ui 1^2 L25 iu 2.0 I 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WiST MAIN STRUT WnSTiR.N.Y. MSIO (716) •72-4S03 \ iV ry )e confidered as the image of navigation in its fir hi nl earlieft flate. For it feems evident to me, that' pec pie in the beginning only took three or four trunks of tree?, and fallened them together, and then, by means of this kind of raff, got acrols fuch waters as were too dt «p for them to ford over, and acrofs which they could not well fwim with their children and various kinds of goods which they might wifh to preferve from being wet ; The canoe, however, is a fpecimen of the art in a more ad- )earedHyanced ftate, as this kind of craft is capable of having lat otBdiredion given to it, and even of io capital an imj )rove- ment as that of having a fail added to it. For which reafon I chufe this vehicle for a ftandard, in pref ;rence to a mere raft, to which, imperfe<3: as it is, it is fo much fuperior. Let us, then, compare this with a large majeftic floating edifice, the relult of the ingenuity and Drigin,Bumted labour ot many hundred hands, and compo fed of ;, con-Ba great number of well-proportioned pieces, nicCity fai^ ifionsMened together by means of iron nails and boltsi, and jfTariesBiendered fo tight with tow and pitch, that no wat^er can ance»enetrate into it. Now, in order to give motioi i and t wereBiredion to this enormous machine, fome aftonifhdngly to theBofty pieces of timber have been fixed upright in i t, and ed toB) many moveable crofs pieces have been added to it, jolsMjgether with fuch a variety of pieces of ftrong linen ,€ie ocMloth, for the purpofe of catching the wind, and of re- CiuB- . ccuving at any] an art ind ir- luman i^ident,' ering, ^ S65 FOSTER'S ART OF SHIP-BUILDINC. ceiving its impulfe and propelling power, that the num- ber ofthem amounts to upwards of 30. For changing the diredlion of thefe yards and fails, according to par- ticular circumftances, it has alfo heen rcquifitc to add a vail quantity of cordage and tackling, and nevertheleis even all this would not be fufficxent for the perfeft di- redtion and government of the veflel, if there was not fafteued to the hinder part of it, by means of hinges and hooks, a moveable piece of wooa, very fmall indeed in proportion to the whole machine ; but the lead inclina- tion of which to either fide is fufficient to give imme- diately a different diredion to this enormous large maf% and that even in a ftorm, fo that two men may direrf and govern this fwimming ifland with the iame, or rather with greater eafe than a fmgle man can do a boar. But if, befides, we confider that, in a veffel like this, not a fingle piece is put in at random, but that every part of it has its determinate meafure and proportion, and is £xed precifely in that place which is the molt advantageous for it ; that, throughout every part of it, there is diftributed an ailonifhin^ quantity of blocks, ftays, and pullies, for the purpole of dimmiihing the fridtion, and of acceleradng the motion of thefe parrs; that even the bellying and vaulted part of the febric, together with its (harp termination underneath, are proportioned according to the niceft calculations, and the moft accurately determined rules ; that the length and the thicknefs of the mafls, the fize of the booms] and yards, the length, width, and ftrength bf the fails I and tackling, are all in due proportion to one another, accor(Hng to certain rules founded upon the principles] of motion: when we confider all this, I fay, our ad-] miration increafes more and more at this great mailer- { piece of human power and underftanding. Still, how- ever, there are wanting a few traits to complete this] ted ( (he I large ofbr there the u amou twent JToo weigh deck, pounds be/ides pounde complei 64 ^h. a quired f to the fa tion to t: by way ( kt of fail ther amo wife, con belonging and vario as alio the no inconf the weigh that one o burthen, o ed and gov Now, the Mcient to templarive tbe coaft oij defcription. A man in health confumes, in the fpacel navigators of 24 hours, about eight pounds of victuals and drink;! to look upor confequently 8000 lb. 01 provifions are required perBBut the find day in fuch a (hip. Now, let us fuppofe her to be fir-locean of mo tedl VoLir.— N FOSTER'S ART OF SHIP-BUILDING. 8(57 ted out for three months only, and we (hall find that (he muft be laden with 720,0001b. of provifions. A large forty-two pounder weighs about 6 1 00 lb. if made of brafs, and about J500 lb. if ot* iron; and generally there are 28 or 30 or thefe on board a (hip of 100 guns, the weight of which, exclufive of that of their carriages, amounts to 1 83000 lb. on the fecond deck there are 30 twenty-four pounders, each of which weigh about 5100 lb. and therefore altogether, 153,0001b. and the weight of the 26 or 28 twelve-pounders ou the lower deck, amounts to about 7^,400 lb. that of the 14 fix- pounders, on the upper deck, to about 26,600 lb. and befides that, on the round tops, even there are three- pounders and fwivels. Now, if to this we add, that the complete charge of a forty-two pounder weighs about 64 lb. and that at leaft upwards of 1 00 charges are re- quired for each gun, we mall find this to amount nearly to the fame weight as the guns themfelves. In addi- tion to this we muft reflect, that every ihip muft have, by way of providing againlt exigencies at leaft another fet of fails, cables, cordage, and tackling, which altoge- ther amount to a confiderable weight. The ftores like- wife, confifting of planks, pitch, and tow ; the chefts belonging to the officers and fiilors ; the furgeon's ftores, and various other articles requifite on a long voyage ; as alfo the fmall arms, bayonets, fwords, and piftols, are no inconfiderable load ; to which we muft finally add the weight of the crew, which is not very trifling, fo that one of thefe large Ihips carries at leaft 2162 tons burthen, or 4,324,000 lb. and at the fame time is tteer- ed and governed with as much eafe as the fmalleft boat. Now, the confideration of thefe circumftances alone are fufficient to excite the moft ferious refledtions in a con- templative mind ; and yet, if fuch a (hip failed along the coaft only, and never loft fight of the (hore, as the I navigators of old ufed to do, we might ftill be tempted to look upon navigation as an eafy and trifling bufinefs. But the finding the ftraighteft and ftiorteft way over an [ocean of more than 60 or 80 degrees in longitude, and Vol. rr.— NO 48. 5 R 30 168 FOSTER'^ ART OF SHIP-BUILDlNG. ^^o or 40 in latitude ; or acrofs a tradt from 4^000 1^ oobo miles in extent, by day or by night, in fair wea- ther or in foul, as well when the (ky is over^caft, as when it is clear, and often with no other guide than the compafs (which does not even point dire£lly to the N. in all placea) and the being able to determine the true pofition of the (hip at fea by the height of the fun, though this latter be enveloped in clouds, or to direct ones courfe by the moon and the ftars with fuch exa£t- xvefs and precifion, as not to make a miftake of the va- lue of half a degree, or 30 miles ; this at leaft (hews the progrefs and great perfedion of an art pra£lifed by a let of people of whofe underllandings many conceited and fupercilipus landmen have but a mean opinion, and whofe plain and fimple manners they frequently lake the liberty of turning into ridicule. A violent ftorm of wind will make us tremble with Fear, even in a ft rong, well-built houfe, and in themidft of a populous city ; yet we havefeldom or never either feen or experienced the vaft power of the enraged waves, when beat about by the wmds, and dafhed againft each other, till they feem transformed into froth and Vapour, and the whole furface of the ocean prefents to the eye a confufed fcene of immenfe watery mountains, and bottomlefs precipices ; and yet on fuch a fea as this the true feaman, provided he has but a good fhip, rides with calm and unfhaken courage, and thinks hlmfelf as i^fe in the midil of the ocean as in the befl: fonified caftle. , ^ .... This art, carried to that height of perfedlion in which we have defcribed it, clofely connefts the moft diftant regions, furnifties the houfes and fpreads the tables of the luxurious natives of Europe with the rarities, dain- ties, and treafures of both the Indies, bears protection and fafety to the remotell fhores, and diffufes terror and deftrudtion beyond the moft extenfive feas. In ftiort, it is the greateft and moft aftonifhing of all human inven- tions, and produced by the moft vigorous exertion of ihe intelledtual faculties of man, whom, in defpite of his natural t( FOSTER'S ART OF SHIP-BUILDING. B6<^ natural debility and feeblenefs, it muft neceflarily infpire with the highcft degree of pride, were he not on other accounts, but too liable to that failing. It is, however, gradually, and by little and little only that this art has attained to that degree of pcrfedion in which it now fubfifts, after having for whole ages be- fore advanced towards it with a flow and almoft im- perceptible pace. A minute enquiry into the whole fyftem of nature ; into the powers of the loaddone ; into the nature of the planets ; their determinate pe- riodical revolutions ; their influence upon each other, and upon the winds and tides ; a more accurate know- ledge of the nature cf the air ; of its periodical currents ; of its conftituent parts, and of the various denfity of its different ftrata ; a knowledge of the difference of the gravitating power at the different parts of the earth ; and of many other fciences, in which, by the help of the mathematics in thefe later times only, confiderable ad- vances have been made, have alfo of late greatly con- tributed towards the perfection of navigation ; and aa undoubtedly thefe fciences are very far from having as yet arrived at their highed pitch, they muft of courfe re- ceive a daily increafe, and by confequence likewife con- tinually impart new improvements to this art. Before navigation could attain to its prelent perfec- tion, it muft have advanced (lowly through many fuc- celTive gradations ; and how rude and imperfedt muft it have been above 3000 years ago ? How contracted and limited alio muft the ide^is of mankind have been with regard to foreign countries and nations ? This our northern part 01 the globe, however, and Europe, be- gan at an early period to contribute to the extenfion of human knowledge in relation to foreign countries and nations, by means of voyap;es of difcovery, by com- merce, and by conqueft. Thefe three iources of the enlargement of our knowledge of people and coun- tries 1 mention together, becaufe we arc ufed with an toplicit confidence to repeat after the great Montef- 5 R 3i quieu*, f^79 FOSTER*! ART OF SHIP-BUILDING. quku*, '* that countries are now difcovcred by voy- " ages on the fea, but that formerlyr the fea was dif- " covered by the conqueft of countries." And I may with sreat |u(lice and mere chance likewife, as a fource pot lefs fruitful than the former. The peopling of the iflands in the South Sea by a Malayan nation, isper- liaps to be attributed to a mere accident alone. Tliey probably fet out for a neighbouring ifland, in order to fee their friends, and were driven by a dorm to an ifland, of which they had not the leatl previous knowledge. When in the year 1 774, we landed for the fecond time at Huahffine, we found three men and a woman from the ifland of Q-mateiva^ or O-maUa, who in their boat had been call away on this former iflind by a ilorm ; and Captain Cook, ip his laft voyage in 1 777, found in an iiland at a great diftance from O-raiedeay three country, men of OmatSy who were the only furvivors of 50 per- ions, the reft having been gradually dcftroy^d by the ilorm, and by hunger and thiril. ? Efprlt des Loiz> lib. 3(xi. c. 7. ■'■t. THE T H ;v y. O Y A G E a j» GOVERNOR PHix., IP T O ^OT^^^ ^ ^ r^ ^'TB t.tt Account Of the EftabKOiment of Ae Colonies oj ^ORT JACKSON -jl N ft "<"*»«*« »si4Na fj ANECDOTES O V GOVERNOR PHILLIP. ARTHUR PHILLIP is one of thofe officers, who, like Drake, Dampier, and Cook, has raifed him* felf' by his merit and his fervices, to diflindtion and command. His father was Jacob Phillip, a native of* Franl^fort, in Germany, who having fettled in England, maintained his family and educated his fon by teach- ing the languages. His mother was Elizabeth Breach, who married for her firft huftjand. Captain Herbert of the navy, a kinfman of Lord Pembroke. Of her mar- riage with Jacob Phillip, was her fon Arthur, born in the paridi of AUhallows, Bread-ftreet, within the city pf London, on the i ith of October, 1738. Being defigned for a fea-faring life, he was very pro* perly fent to the fchool of Greenwich, where he re» ceived an education fuitable to his early propenfities, At the age of fixteen he began his maritime career, under the deceafed Captain Michael Everet gf the navy, at the commencement of holUlities in 1755 : and at the fame time that he learned the rudiments of his profef- fion under that able officer, he partook with him in the early misfortunes, and fubfequi^nt glories of the feven years war. Whatever opulence Phillip acquired frotn the csmture of the Havannah, certain it is, that at the ^ge pj twenty-three,, he there was made a Lieutenant i;;(c> the Stirling Caitk| on the 7th>ef Jfune, 1 761, by found lefi^ej!,'^"'"'^ « 1763. And P^^li-'^'* «» »ng. and like othZ "^ amufed himfe/f V • t"?' "» important. *""' ^^^'re no office to make th"' familiar. And h^ k ^ ^^^^ ^"^n when fj,l "T "*'=>^ ftruggle with f , '^'"'■^ "'^"'n.r^ amidft '^""'^ *■"<:»» ^^^Ih conduV?„ iT^fi" "PPonen? 'a '/''l?"'" had ittle obnnl5 ^«P;ember, 1770 ""^ "^''''ft fire- ■-V0 hV&Thif fi'r A ^eat "iV/ * nlgher fituafi/in . ."*P> however l»^ V- *''*• ,1>e Ariadne Sari 'li''^ \^ "^"^ ™«Ie poft cani" "? "» "hen he was upwards of^h '^"^ °f ^foveS"?4"''* prizes, beinir annt- . i '*"'« ^f'^entures " 1 f ^"^''"e, lie 2id of ffi T'^'' '° the Eurone if ^ "^ 8"'"^" I ^° ot December, 178,. Du^t ?^ "^ 8""'. on I '*'^*°e the memorable year $74 ANECDOTES op GOVERNOR PHILLIP. j-ear 1782, Phillip promoted its enterprizes, and ihared m its glories. And in January, 1783, he failed with a reinforcement to the Eaft Indies, where fuperior brave- ly contended againft fuperior force, till the policy of our nep;ociator8 put an end to unequal hoflilities by a ne- ceflary peace. The adivity or the zeal of Phillip was now turned to more peaceful objects. And when it was determined to form a fettlement on that part of New Holland, de- nominated New South Wales, he was thought of as a proper officer tocondudt an enteiprize, which required profeflional knowledge, and habitual prudence. His equipment, his voyage, and his fettlement in the other hemifphere, will be found in the following narrative. When the time (hall arrive that the European fettlers on Sydney Cove demand their hiftorian, thefe authen- dc anecdotes of their prifline legiilator wiU be fought for as curious, and coniidered as important. A VOYAGE forma canno cedent confidi fent re variouj and vei An < po/icy, 1 a fixed excites i fent out] Jedge wl employe vifit to L nature o| 'Pedling i every pol would bel yefgraduJ times in/e| Vol. ijr.. n • V O Y A NEW SO UT G E H Wales. formation of various^kinds ?f''^.'^^''% looks for in, cannot but contemplate wkhn^'r " ^(^'^ '^hich we celJent publications VuKen^^^^^^^ that b. the ex! confideraWe additions Webee^ I"*!? *=1fcrprizes, ve^ fent reign, to our general In^i^J^^^^' ''"ring the nre- vanous tribes by ISrl °"''^?8f °f *« Rlobe K and vegetables I ^ShTStL^r' "^'^^^ aS An expedition occafinn»J T '"PPO«- policy, carried on bTA,"cL/ ^"''''^ ^Hegiflative a fixed eftabli/hment f„ a coon "'J^' '"^ concluded b^ excites an unufual intereft .^ '"'' ^•^H' remote, not onl^ Aould be viewed wi^ I P'^^.^f variation, thou Jh !V " y«gradual]yrec'o;f„^aH%'''''^^i acuSj ^^ corre^ed 876 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALKS. correded by infaUiWe experience; and many objeAa will prefent themfelves to view, which before had efcaped notice, or had happened to be iio fituated that they could not be obferved. The full difcovery of the extent of New Holland, by our illuftrious navigator, Capt. Cook, has formed a fin- gular epocha in geography ; a doubt having arifen from it, whether to a land of luch magnitude the name of ifland or that of continent may more properly be ap- plied. To this qucftion it may be anlwered, that though the etymology of the word ifland, and of others fynonymous to it, points out only a land furrounded by the fea, or by any water, (in which fenfe the term is ap- plicable even to the largeft portions of the habitable globe) yet it is certain that, in the ufual acceptation, an ifland is conceived to fignify a land of only moderate extent, furrounded by th^ lea. To define at what point of magnitude precifely, a country fo fituated (hall begin to be a continent, could not anlwer any purpofe pf utility : but the beft and cleared rule for removing the doubt appears to be the following : As long as the peculiar advantages of an infular fituation can be enjoy- ed by the inhabitants of fuch a country, let it have the title of an ifland ; when it exceeds thole limits, let it be confidered as a continent. Now the firfl and principal advantage of an ifland, is that of being capable of a cbn- Venient union under one government, and of deriving thence a fecurity from all external attacks, except by fea. In lands of very great magnitude luch an union is difficult, if not impradlicable, and a diftindtion founded on thii> circumflance, is therefore fufficient- for con- venience at leaft, if not for fpeculative accuracy, if we fuppofc this extent to be fomething about one thoufanu miles each way, without, however, afFe6:ing mucl) rigour in the limitation, the claim of New Holland to be called a continent, will be indifputable: The greareft ex- tent of that vafl country being, from E. to W. about two thousand four hundred Englifh miles, and, from N. toS. not le^thaa two thoufaod three hundred. VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH ViALiS, «77 To New South Wales England has the claim which a tacit confent has generally made dccifive among the European States, that of prior difcoverjr. The whole of that eaftern coaft, except the very ibuthern point, having been untouched by an^r navigator, till it was explored by Captain Cook. This coniideration, added to the more favourable accounts given of this fide of the continent than of the other, was fulHcient to dccidq the choice of the Britilh government, in appointing a place for the Laniftiment of a certain clafs of criminals. The caufe of the determination to fend out in thiw manner the convid:s under fentence of tranfportation, was, as is well known, the neceflary ceflation of their removal to America, and the inconveniencies experi* enced in other modes of deftinatioa adopted after that period. Virginia, greatly in want, at its firfl: fettlement, of labourers to clear away the impenetrable forefts which impeded all cultivation, was willing, from very early times, to receive as fervants, thofe Engli0i criminals whom our Courts of Law deemed not funiciently guilty for capital punifhment. The planters hired their fer- vices during a limited term ; and they were latterly fent out under the care of contractors, who were obliged to prove, by certificates, that they had difpofed of theta according to the intention of the law. The benefits of this regulation were various. The colonies received by it, at an eaiy rate, an afliftance very neceflary ; and the mother country was relieved from the burthen of fubjedls, who at home were not only ufelefs but pernicious : befides which, the mercantile returns on this account alone, are reported to have arifen, in latter times, to a very confiderable amount. The individuals themfelves, doubtlefs, in fome inftances, proved incorrigible ; but it happened alfo, not very un- frequently, that, during the period of their legal lervi- tude, they became reconciled to a life of honeft induftry, were altogether reformed in their manners, and rifing gradually by lauda^e efforts, to fituations of advantage^ 5 S ?, inde^ 878 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. independence, and eftimation, contributed honourably to the population and profperity of their new country. By the conteft in America, and the fubfequent repa- ration of the thirteen Colonies, this traffic was of courfe deftroyed. Other expedients, well known to the public, have fince been tried ; fome of which proved highly obje£lIonable ; and a}\ have been found to want lome of the principal advantages experienced from the ufual mode of tranfportation.— The deliberations upon this fubjed, which more than once employed the attention of rarliament, produced at length the plan of which this narrative difplays the firft refult. On December 6^ 1786, the proper orders were iffued by his Majefty in Council, and an A'* X erews, foldiers. and conv.fts. In thi8,and every. port, the ctcw , vegetables, and J^ere indulged with frelh meat, » ^^ b ^^ every thing which <:°«;^X inevitable in long voy- from the cotnplamts formerly n .^^^^^ ^ ^^^^ „t ages. The "Vf h^ J^nd a pint of wine per man, fe thrconvltiSee ^- of a pound "J S -and of bread, but no ^^F-^ h^J^.^^^^^^ plen- here were only figs =>" Jj^ fuc ef M'V P^'""" Wel aful and excellent. "Xisereat end, were employed "ery kind, tcndmg to tbjs^S^^ ^^, ^f jhe number of frafdtaf -^'{^Slv'Sn, how favourable * Cajtain Cook had Y^vf Jjf ^the health ot thofe fuch expeditions might be tnaue ^as happy JnLaced in them; and V°^«™°i. t the fuccefs of hw enoulb to confirm tbe pP«">on, »h^J ^^^ „,t i„ ^ny trMt predeceffor, in this effenual P«'^ ^^^e and CftL effeft of chance,but arole no^^ ^^ ^^^ Son of wluch he h^s»dy g'^^^^ge^^^^^^ and which, in ^^ilar c W ^j ^^^ ?»^^' "l „ ' p/>cd to produce the >a™^ 7. of embarkation and Saswhfdiedbetwecn^^^^^^^^^^ Se arrival of the fleet at tn« P'^j. . ' confidered that the they were yet on (hore. A VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. 885 thcr rona rifFe, ip in tpply t this freih- readi- (hore. ividts, 8, and them g voy- und of r maa> mnd of ibtained re plcn- tions of ^ployed mber of vourable of thofe 8 happy :fs of his ot in any ; care and he detail; lerally be lumber of nation and zm incon- ;d that the of people, labouring lere, while A week was pafled at this place, during which time the weather was very moderate, the thermometer not exceeding 70 degrees of Fahrenheit's fcale. The baro- meter ftood at about 30 inches. The Governor of the Canaries, at this time, wa*? the Marquis de Brancifort, by birth a Sicilian. He was re- fident as ufual at Santa Cruz, and paid to Governor Phil- lip, and the other officers, a polite attention and refpedl, equally honourable to all parties. 'Ihe port of Santa Cruz, though not remarkably fine, is yet the heft in the Canaries, and the ufual place at which veffels touch for refreftiment ; the refidence of the Governor General is therefore fixed always in Tenerifte,for the fake of a more frequent intercourfe with Europe : in preference to the great Canary Ifle, which contains tne metropolitan church, and the palace of the bilhop. The Marquis de Brancifort has lately ellabliihed fome ufeful manufac- tures in Teneriffc. Our (hips were at length preparing to depart, when on the evening of the gth of June, a convict belonging to the Alexander, having been employed on decK, found means to cut away the boat, and make a tempo- rary efcape ; but he was miffed and foon retaken. It is not probable that he had formed any detinite plan of efcape ; the means of abfconding mult have been acci- dentally offered, and fuddenly embraced, and for ma- king fuch an attempt, the vague hope of liberty, with- out any certain profpedt, would naturally afford fuffi- cient temptation. Ey the loth of June the ihips had completed their water, and early the next morning, the Governor gave the fignal for weighing anchor, and the fleet purfued its courfe. 5T2 REPOItT ti6 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. Report of the marines and convicts under medical treatment, given in to Governor Phillip, June 4th, 1787. Charlotte, . Alexander, Scarborough, Friendfhip, Lady Pcnryhn, Prince of Wales, n Marines Convi£ls Marines Convicts Marine Convifts Convtfts Convicls Marines Convids Coilvi out t^i Voyage to new south walss. out a refpedful falutation ; but at night they are con* ftantly furrounded by their refpe^ive votaries, ^ho of- fer up their prayers aloud, and make the earth refound in all quarters with the notes of their hymns. The Uri^nels of manners in the inhabitants is not faid to be at all equivalent to the warmth of this devotion ; but in ail countries and climates it is found much eafier to per- form external ads of reputed piety, than to acquire the internal habits fo much more eflential. It mud be owned, however, that our people did not find the ladies fo indulgent as fome voyagers have reprefented them. It was near a month before Governor Phillip could furniih his ihips with every thing which it was necef- fary they (hould now procure. At length, on the 4th t)f September, he weighed anchor, and as he palled the fort, received from the Viceroy the laft compliment it was in his power to pay, being Tainted with twenty-one gunsi The falute was returned by an equal number from the Sirius ; an4 thus ended an intercourfe honour- able to both nations, and particularly to the principal officer employed in the fervice of eacn. A profperous courfe by fea, like a ftate of profound peace and tranquility in civil ibciety, though moft ad- vantageous to thofe who enjoy it, is unfavourable to the purpoi'es of narration. The ftriking fads which the writer exerts himfelf to record, and the reader is eager to perufe, arife only from dif]^cult fituations ; uniform profperity is defcribed in very few words. Of this ac- ceptable but unproductive kind was the pafTage of the Botany Bay fleet from Rio de Janeiro to the Cape of Good Hope ; uniformly favourable, and not marked by any extraordinary incidents. This run, from about lati- tude 22 d. S. longitude 43 W. of Londor, to latitude 34 d. S. longitude 18 d. E. of London, a diftance of about four thoufand miles, was performed in thirty-nine days : for having left Rio on the 4th of September, on the 13th of Odtoberthe fhips came to anchor in Table Bay. Here they were to take their final refrefhment, ana lay in every kind of flock with which they were not already VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WAUS. 893 olready provided. Iq this period no additional lives had been loft, except that of a fmgle convidl belonging to the Charlotte tranfport, who fell accidentally into the fea, and could not by any efForis be recovered. Table Bay, on the N. W. fide of the Cape of Good Hope, is nam^d from the Table Mountain, a promon- tory of confiderable elevation, at the foot of which, and almoft in the centre of the Bay, ftands Cape Town, the principal Dutch fettlement in this territory. This Bay cannot properly be called a port, being by no Tieans a ftation of fecurity ; it is expofed to all the violence of the winds which fet into it from the fea ; and is far from fufficicntly fecured from thofe which blow from the land. The gufts which defcend from the fummit ot Table Mountain are fufficient to force (hips from their anchors, and even violently to annoy perfons on th^ (bore, by dieftroying any tents or other temporary edi- fices which may be eredted, and railing clouds of fine duft, which produce very troublefome effects. A gale of this kind, from the S. £. blew for three days fuccet- fivdy when Capt. Cook lay here in his firft voyage, at which time, he informs us, the Refolution was the only (hip in the harbour that had not dragged her anchors. The ftorms from the fea are ftill more formidable ; fo much fo, that (hips have frequently been driven by them from their anchorage, and wrecked at the head of the Bay. But thefe accidents happen chiefly in the quaade mouffbn or winter months, from May i ± to the fame day of Auguft ; during which time few (hips venture to an- chor here. Our fleet, arriving later, lay perfedlly un- molefted as long as it was neceflfary for it to remain ia this ftation. Falfe Bay, on the S. E. fide of the Cape, is more fe- cure than Table Bay, during the prevalence of the N. W. winds, but ftill lefs fo in ftrong gales from the S. E. It is however lefs frequented, being twenty-four miles of very heavy road diftant from Cape Town, whence al- moft all neceflaries muft be procured. The moft (heU 5 U ^ t9re4 ii^ t-^ I «*■■»■*, t 894 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. tered p^rt of Falfe Bay is a recefson the weft fide called Siinon*8 Bay. The Cape of Good Hope, though popularly called, anc^ perhjp8 pretty generally efteemed lo, is not in truth the mift fouthern point of Africa. The land which pro- jeds turr heft to the S. is a point (o the E. of it, called by the EngMh Cape Lagullus ; a name corrupted from the original Portugutze das Affulhas, which, as well as the FrenchappeUation,desAignillfS,isdefcriptiveof its form, and would rightly be tranflated Needle Cape. Three eminences, divided by very narrow pafles, and appear- ing in a diftant vitw like three fummirs of the fame mountain, flai>d at the head of Table Bay.— They are however of difF/rent heights, by which difference, as we\\ as by that of their fhape, they may be diftinguilh- ed« Table Mountain is fo called from its appearance, as it terminates in a fl »t horizontal furface, from which the face of the rock defcends almoft perpendicularly. This mountain riles to about 3567 feet above the level of the fea. Devil's Head, called allb Charles Mountain, is fitu^ted to the h. of the former, and is not above 3 368 feet in height ; and on the W. fiJe of Table Mountain, Lion's Head, whofe name is alfo meant to be delcriptive, does nor exceed 2764 feet. In the neighbourhood of the latter lies Conliaiifia, a diftr'dconfifting of two farms, wherein the fiinous wines of that name are produced. Our v(7agtrs hmnd provifions leis plentiful and lefs reafonabl.' in prict at Cape To'.vn than they had been taught toexped:. Board and iovlging, which are to be had only in private houfes, liood the officers in two rix- dollars a day, which is near nine fliillings fterling. This town, the only place in the wiok colony to which that title can be applied with pn^prie^y,isof nOgreat extent; it does not in any part exceed two tiiiles: and the coun- try, colonized here by the Dutch, is in general io unfa- vourable to cultivation, that "it is not without ("ome afto- niihmentthat we hud them able torailc provifions from it in lufficient abundance to fupply themfelves, and the • - ' Ihips was no to the table, w fea /on t( and d\fp( at this ti land wer P'eparat won of a . In the vifions W( not lei's { bntchiefl h enough con/iderin from a dei ; ;^OVAGE ,0 NEW SOUTH WALES. ,„ &r''""'"''-'--''"=''co„«a„t„ pronto*: driven to feek refrXent S''-?" "^ """a-ions are extraordinary, that froT^h. A-r' " """« I'ut apnelr '49,1, by Bar hele,,^ oTaz to'lh""''"'"'' "^ ">« C^Pefa lony wa, fent, a fpit fo very ftvoS."'' *"''* ^"f'=h ct navigation ftould have reLin,7'"'"^°""nerce and peans. Perhaps all he S/rir^r^'^y E"'^ rafter was necelTarv even fr. f S °^ "'^ Dutr-h cha taining an eftabliftiJemin a fiirh" '\'"^'' °f rnait fo little difpofed to repay ?heSlof^h'"' ^- '^' ''"".'n^ example and Aiccefs of thi. ! , "^^ cultivator. Th- are deterred by trifling obfttl«°]" ft' ""dertalcinS contend with difficulties. „eb^,.^"f, ^^o rather tha^ moft evident advantages. ^'' '° Telmquifl, t^e But though the country near thp r t . enough to render it as pffis as tSf'' ^'l ""' ^'"rms Rio de J-«neiro,yetthe(5ove nor M ?'''''.^ furround, was no, far behind the vterov^rD''=':^''nGraaffe to the Englift officers 'S ^f'^f •'" ''"^"''o« table, where they were ewimT ^ admitted to his and difpofifion. Yet thp mJn J r .""" "" behaviour at this time in a trLquH ftTte^thl ''"^ P'^"^'^ ^^'^ not land werefuch as occafioned m'uch un«r '"'Z''''™ ""'" Rf""""' '^^'-e -naking at the for. K "''""""'«'«» vifions were procured" an^ %Vl^ «°^;1' «nd other pro- • not Ids th,n^five hundred a, iirAf''r'> °" ^"^^ bnt chiefly poultry nutnn^n of different kinds k ^n-JURhTxcitedX dea of E""'"? "^''^ ""tural- confidering that the coumrvW^ '"*•- T^hisfuppj' ^- dearth, was veryrid',?iP^^^^^^^^^^^^ V chafed t96 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. chafed of courfe at a higher expence confiderably than it would have been in a rime of greater plenty. On the laih of November the fleet let fail, and was for many days much delayed by ftrong winds from the S. E. On the 25th, being then only 80 leagues to the eaftward of the Cape, Governor Phillip left the Siriua and went on board the Supply tender ; in hopes by leaving the convoy, to g^in fumcient time tor examining the country round Botany Bay, fo as to fix on the fituar tion moft eligible for the colony, before the tranfports Ifhould arrive. At the iame he time ordered the agents for the tranfports, who were in the Alexander, to lepa- rate themfelves from the convoy with that (hip, the Scarborough and Friendship, which, as they were better failers than the reft, might reafonably be expeded loon- in which cafe, by the labour of the convicts they er bad on board, much might be done in making the neceU fary preparations for landing the provifions and ftores. Major Rols, the Commandant of Marines, now left the Sirius, and went on board the Scarborough, that he might accompany that part of the detachment which probably would be landed firft. Captain I^unter, in the Srius, was to follow with the ftorefliips, and the remainder of the tranfports ; and he had the neceflary inftrudions for his future proceedings, in cafe the Sup- Sly had met with any accident. Lieutenant Gidley Ling, fince appointed Commandant of Norfolk Ifland, accompanied Governor Phillip in the Supply. From this time to the 3d of January, 1 788, the winds vrere as fa,vourable as could be wiOied, blowing generally in very ftrong gales from the N. W. W. and S. W. Once only the wind had (hifted to the £. but continued in that dire^ion not more than a few hours. Thus aififted, the Supply, which failed very indifferently, and turned out, from what (he had fufiered in the voyage, to be hardly a fafe conveyance, performed in fifty- one days a voyage of more than feven thoufand miles. On the day above-mentioned (he was within fight of the coaft gf New South Wales, 5m th€ winds then became yariabl^a vit lo I waj A flioi plac nor armi dow cloat beadi or ne prcfe accep thefh effcd addrei Govei duaf whom them their w guinar fettlers The the ba) tenfive, and, th of a m chor w be exp< hard th Sevei parts oi tion to In the conlidei iyfor ai aad thef VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. *,v variable^ and a current, which at times fet very ftrongly to the fouthward, lb much impeded her courfe, that it was not till the 1 8th that (he arrived at Botany Bay. At the very firft landing of Governor Phillip on the {hore of Botany Bay, an interview with the natives took place. They were all armed, but on feeing the Gover- nor approach with figns of friend(hip, alone and un* armeci, they readily returned his confidence by laying down their weapons. They were perfectly aevoid of cloathing, yet feemed fond of ornaments, putting the beads and red baize that were given them, on their heads or necks, and appearing pleafed to wear them. The prcfents offered by their new vifitors were all readily accepted, nor did any kind of difagreement arife while the (hips remained in Botany Bay. This very pleafing effc£l was produced in no (mall degree by the perfonil addrefs, as well as by the great care and attention of the Governor. Nor were the orders which enforced a con- du M VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. iTveflern branch of the bay is continued to a great extent^ but the officers fent to examine it could not find there anv fupply of frefti water, except in very fmall drains. Point Sutherland offered the mod eligible fituation, having a run of good water, though not in very great abundance. But to this part of the harbour the (nips could not approach, and the ground near it, even in the higher parts, was in general damp and fpungy. Smal- ler numbers might indeed in feveral fpots have found a comfortable refidence, but no place was found in the whole circuit of Botany Bay which feemed at all cal- culated for the reception of fo large a fettlement. . While this examination was carried on, the whole fleet had arrived. The Supply had not fo much outfailed the otiier fliips as to give Governor Phillip the advan- |tge he had expedled in point of time. On the 19th of January, the Alexander, Scarborough, and Friend- fiiip, call anchor in Botany Bay; and on the 2orh, the Sirius, with the remainder of the convoy. Thefe (hips had all continued very healthy ; they had not, however, yet arrived at their final (lation. The opennefs of this bay, and the dampnefs of , the foil, by which the people would probably be rendered unhealthy, had already determined the Governor to feek another fituation. He refolved, therefore, to examine Port Jackfon, a bay mentioned by Captain Cook as im- mediately to the N. of this. There he hoped to find, not only a better harbour, but a fitter place for the efta- blifhment of his new government. But that no time might be loft, in cafe of a difappointment in thefe par- ticulars, the ground near Point Sutherland was ordered immediately to be c!e?ired, and preparations to be made for landing, under the direction of the Lieutenant Governor. Thefe arrangements having been fettled. Governor Phillip prepared to proceed to the examination of Port Jackfon ; and as the time of his abfence, had he gone into the Supply, muft have been very uncertain, he went rouad with three boats ; taking with him Captain Hunter VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. 899 Hunter and feveral other officers, that by cxamininaj ieveral parts of the harbour at once the greater diipatch might be made. On the 2 2d of January they fet out upon this expedition, and early in the afternoon arrived at Port Jacklon, which is diftant about three leagues. Here all regret arifing from the former difappointments was at once obliterated ; and Governor Phillip had the fatisfai^ion to find one of the iined harbours in the world, in which a thoufaad fail of the line might ride in perfe^ fecurity. The different coves of this harbour were examined with all poffibleexpedition, and the preference was given to one which had the fined fpring of water, and in which {hips can anchor fo clofe to the (hore, that at a very fmall expet\ce quays may be conftrudted at which the largefl veflels may unload. This cove is about half a mile in length, and a quarter of a mile acrofs at the en- trance. In honour of Lord Sydney, the Governor dit. tinguiQied it by the name of Sydney Cove. On the arrival of the boats at Port Jackfon, a fecond party of the natives made its appearance near the place of landing. Tliefe alfo were armed with lances, and at-firil were very vociferous ; but the fame gentle means iifed towards the others eaiily perfuaded thefe alfo to (liicard their fufpicions, and to accept whatfoever was offered. One man in particular^ who appeared to be the chief of this tribe, (hewed very Angular marks both of confidence in his new fnends, and of determined refo- iution. Under the guidance of Governor Phillip, to whom he voluntarily intrufled himfelf^he went to a part of the beach vvhere the men belonging to the boats were then boiling their meat : when he approached the ma- rines, who were drawn up near that place, and faw that by proceeding he (hould be feparated from his compa- nions, who remained with feveral of the officers at fome j (liftance, he flopped, and with great firmnefs, feemed by words and geftures to threaten revenge if any advan- Itage (hould be taken of his fituation. He then went I on with perfedl calmnefs to examine what was boiling Vol. II.-N« 49- * 2Lj m 990 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. in the pot, and by the manner in which he expreifed his admiration, made it evident that he intended to profit by what he faw. Governor Phillip contrived to make him underftand that large fhells might conveniendy be ufed for the fame purpole, and it is probable that by thefe hints, added to, his own obfervation, he will be enabled to introduce the art of boiling among his countrymen. Hitherto they appear to have known no other way of drefling food than broiling. Their methods of kindling . fire are probably very imperfect and laborious, for it is obferved that they ufually keep it burning, and are very rarely feen without either a fire adually made, or a 'piece of lighted wood, which trey carry with them from place to place, and even in their canoes. The perpe- tual firep, which in fome countries formed a part of the national religion, had perhaps no other origin than a fimilar inability to produce it at pleafure; and ifv^e fuppofc the original name to have been kindled by light- , ning, the fiction of its coming down from heaven will be found to deviate very little from the truth. In pafling near a point of land in this harbour the boats were perceived by a number of the natives, twen- ty of whom waded into the water unarmed, received ' what was offered them, and examined the boat with a curiofity which impreffed a higher idea of them than any former accounts of their manners had fuggeft- cd. This confidence, and manly behaviour, indu< ced Governor Phillip, who was highly pleafed with it, to give the place the name of Manly Cove. The fame people afterwards joined the party at the place where they had hn Jed to dine. They werci then armed, two of them with (hields and fwords, theBrefre(hm reft with lances only. The fwords were made oWtime; th wood, fmall in the gripe, and apparently lefs formidabieP th^a a good ftick. One of thefe men had a kind oi white clay rubbed upon the upper part of his face, fo to have the appearance of a mafk. Thi& ornament, it can be called fuch, is not common among them, am is probably alTumed only on particular occafions, or was nece Iconfiderai a^e, and earance k ample ■i VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. 901 hour the £S,twen- received ;t with a I kem than I iuggeft- ir, indu- pleafed ily Cove, at thc^ iCY werel fords, the! made ofl jrmidahle] X kind or face, fo iament, 11 ihem, anf tons, or a diftindion to a few individuals. One woman had been fcen on the rocks as the boats paiTed, with her face, neck, and breads thus painted, and to our people ap- peared the moft difgufting figure imaginable ; her own countrymen were perhaps delighted by the beauty of the efFed. During the preparation for dinner the curiofity of thefe vifitors rendered them very troublefome, but an in^- nocent contrivance altogether removed the inconve- nience. Governor Phillip drew a circle round the place where the Englifli were, and without much difficulty made the natives underftand that they were not to pals that line: after which they fat down in perfc^, quietnefs. Another proof how tradtable thefe people are, when no infult or injury is offered, and when proper means are ufed to influence the 'fimplicity of their minds. On the 2z^th of January, Governor Phillip having fuf- ficiently explored Port Jackfon, and found it in all re- fpedls highly calculated to receive fuch a fettlement as he was appointed to eftablifh, returned to Botany Bay. On his arrival there, the reports made fo him, both of the grouted which the people were clearing, and of the upper parts of the Bay, which in this interval had been more particularly examined, were in the greatell di gn;e unfavourable. It was impofiible after this to hjfitat^ concerning the choice of a fituatlon ; and orders were .iccordingly ruued for the removal of the whole fleet to Port Jackfrn. That Botany Bay (hould have appeared to Captain Cook in a more advantageous light than to Governor Phillip, is not by any means extraordinary. Their ob- jeds were very different; the one required only Ihelter and refreChment for a fmall veffel, and during but a (hort time : the other had great numbers to jjrovide for, and was necelfitatcd to find a place wherein (hips of very confiderable burdieu luight approach the ihore with lafe, and lie at all times in pertedl fecurity. The ap- pearance of the place is piaurcfque and pleafing, and fhe ample hs^rveii it afforded, of botanical acquimions, 5X2 made 3>: $02 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. madeitinterefting to the philofophical gentlemen enpap;- cd in that expedition ; but fomething more eflential than beauty of appearance, aad more neceffary than philolb- phical riches, muft be fought in a place where the per- manent refidence of multitudes is to be eftabliflied. Preparations for a general removal were now made Ivith all convenient expedition : but on the morning of the 24th the greateft aftonifhinent was fpread through* out the fleet by the appearance of two Hiips, under French colours. In this remote region vifitors from Europe were very little expedled, and their arrival, while the caufe of it remained unknown, produced in fome minds a temporary apprehenfion, accompanied by a multiplicity of conjectures, many of them fufficiently Hdiculous. Governor Phillip was the firft to recoiled I that' two (hips had been fent out fome time before from France for the purpofe of difcovery, and rightly conclu- ded thefe to be the fame. But as the oppofirion of the I wind and a ftrong current prevented th-^m *■ nrefentl from working into the harbour, and ever. I ^ them I out of fight again to the fouth, he did not think proper I to delay his departure for the fake of making further I enquiry. | On the 25th of Januiiy, therefore, feven days ait^TM the arrival of tl j Supply, Governor Phillip quitted Bo-| tany Bay in the fame mip, and failed to Port Jackibn.l The reft of the fleet, under convoy of the Sinus, wasi ordered to follow, as foon as the abatement of the wind,! which then blew a ftrong gale, (hould facilitate its workJ ing out of the Bay. The Supply was fcarcely our 'onl of fight when the French ftiips again appeared o^ i mouth of the harbour, and a boat was immediately to them, with offers of every kind of information an aflTiftance their fituation could require. It was m\ learntthat thefe were, as the Governor had fuppofed the Bouflble and the Aftrolabe, on a voyage of dilcovery, under the condud of Monfieur La Peyroufe. On the 26th, the tranfports and ftore (hips, attende by the Sirius, finally evacuated Botany Bay; and in Na-Jsi cd long nefs; in a fd i'una, Captaii unforti long bJ His pal whom' ments, the bei of a cl treachel the mj confidii veri Voyage to new south wales. 9^fi rap:- han olb- per* nade igof ugl> inder from rival, :ed in cdby iently :ollea: J from on'-.lu- of the irefent , them proper urther jTS al'tfj edBo- ckfon. s, was wind, work-l out ely ''i? on ani as no\ ppoledj Icoveryl mended ^ din veil ^a?a Very (holt time they were all aflembled [n Sydney Cpve, rhe place now deftmed for their port, and for the recep- tion of the new fettlement. The French fliips had come to anchor in Botany Bay juft before the depar- ture Oi 'he Sirius ; and during the intercourfe which then took place, M. la Peyroule had exprefled a ftrong defire of having fome letters conveyed to Europe. Go- vernor Phiilip was no fooner informed of this, than he difpatched an officer to him with full information of the time when it was probable ourlhips would fail, and -with aflurances that his letters fhould be punctually tranfmitted. By this officer the following intelligence WaS brought back concerning the voyage of the Aftro- lable and Bouflble. Thefe veflels had failed from France in June 1 785. They had touched at the Tile of Santa Catharina on the coaft of Brazil, from thence had gone by the extremity of South America into the Pacific Ocean, where they had run along by the coafts of Ghili and California. They had afterwards vifited Eafter Ifland, Nootka Sound, Cook's River, Kamtfchatka, Manilla, the Ifles des Navigateurs, Sandwich and the Friendly Illands. M. la Peyroufe had alfo anchored off Norfolk Ifland, but could not land, on account of the furf. in this long voyage he had not loll any of his people by fick- nefs ; but two boats crews had unfortunately periflied in a furf on the N. W. coafl of America ; and at IVta- funa, one of the Ifles des Navigateurs, M. L* Angle, Captain of the Aflrolable, had met with a fate ftill more unfortunate. That officer had gone alhore with two long boats for the purpofe of filling fome water calks. His party amounted to forty men, and the natives, from whom the French had received abundance of refrefh- ments, and with whom they had been uniformly on tie beft terms, did not on their landing fhew any ligns of a change of difpofition. Malice unprovoked, and treachery without a motive, feem inconfiftent even with the manners of favages ; the French officers therefore, confiding in this unbroken flate of amity, had fufFered their i»" w 904 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. iheir boats to lie aground. But whether it were that the friendly behaviour of the natives had proceeded onhy from fear, or that fome unknown offence had been given, they feized the moment when the men were bufied in getting out the boats, to make an attack equally furious and unexpected. The aflault was made witn ftones, of which prodigious numbers were thrown with extraordinary force and accuracy of diredion. To this treachery M. L' Angle fell a lacrifice, and with him twelve of his party, officers and men, the long-boats were deftroyed, and the remainder of thoie who had gone aihore efcaped with difficulty in their fmall boats. The (hips in the mean time were under fail, and having pafled a point of land that intercepted the view, knew Slothing of this melancholy and unaccountable affray till th*" boats returned. This fatal refult from too implicit a € ' ^ ' "nee, may, perhaps very properly, increafe the cautit . jf Europeans in their commerce with favages, but ought not to excite fufpicion. The refentments of liich people are fudden and fanguinary, and, where the intercourfe of language is wanting, may eafily be awakened by mifapprehenfion : but it feems poffible to treat them with fufncient marks of confidence, without abandoning the guards of prudence. Offence is often ^ven by the men, while the officers are moft ftudious to preferve harmony, and againfl the tranfports of rage which arife on fuch occafions, it is always neceflary to be prepared. Perhaps, alfo, a degree of awe fhould always be kept up, even to preferve their friendfhip. It has been uniformly remarked by our people, that defence- lefs flragglers are generally ill-treated by the natives of New South Wales, while towards parties armed and on their guard, they behave in the moft amicable manner. The debarkation was now made at Sydney Cove, and the work of clearing the ground for the encampment, as well as for the ftorehoufes and other buildings, was begun without lofs of time. But the labour which at- tended this necefTary operation was greater than can eafily be imagined by thofe who were not ipedbitors of it. TOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. 9^5 it. The coaft, as well as the neighbouring country in general, is covered with wood ; and though in this fpot the trees ftood more apart, and were lefs incumberod with underwood than m many other places, yet their magnitude was fuch as to render not only the felling, but the removal of them afterwards, a tafk of no fmail difficulty. By the habitual indolence of the convi<5fcs, and the want of proper overfeers to keep them to their duty, their labour was rendered lefs efficient than it might have been, in the evening of the 26th the colours were dilplayed on ihore, and the Governor, with feveral of his principal officers and orhers, alTem- bled round the flag-ftafF, drank the king's health, and fuccefs to the fettlement, with all that difplay of form which on fuch occafions is deemed propitious, becaufe it enlivens the fpirits, and fills the imagination with pleafing prefages. From this time to the end of the firft week in February all was hurry and exertion. They who gave orders and they who received them were equally occupied ; nor is it eafier to conceive a bufier fcene than this part of the coaft exhibited during the continuance of thefe firft efforts towards eftablifliment. The plan of the encampment was quickly formed, and places were marked out for every different purpofe, fo as to introduce, as much as poffible, ftridl order and re- gularity. The materials and frame work to conftruifl a flight temporary habitation for the Governor, had been brought out' from England ready formed : thefe were landed'and put together with as much expedition as the circumftances would allow. Hofpital tents were alfo without delay erected, for which there was foon but too much occafion. In the pafTage from the Cape there had been but little ficknefs, nor had many died even among the convicts ; but foon after landing, a dyfen- tery prevailed, which in feveral inftances proved fata!, and the fcurvy began to rage with a virulence which kept the hofpital tents generally fupplied with patients, For thofe afnidted with this diforder, the advantage of fiOi or other firefh provifioos could but rarely be pro- cured ; is: n m fo6 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. cured; nor were efculent vegetables often obtai'^ed in fufficient plenty to produce any material alleviation of the complaint. In the dyfentry, the red gum of the t, • e which principally abounds on this coaft, was founi a very powerful remedy. The yellow gum has been difcovered to pofTefs the fame property, but in an in- ferior degree. The tree which yields the former kind of gum is very confiderable in fize, and grows to a great height before it puts out any branches. The red gum is ufually com- pared to that called fanguis draconis^ but differs from it by being perfedlly foluble in water, whereas the other, being more propcily arefm,will not difTolve except in fpirits of wine. It may be dravm from the tree by tap- ping, or taken out of the veins of the wood when dry, in which it is copioufly diftributed. The leaves are Jong and narrow, not unlike thofe of a willow. The wood is heavy and fine grained, but being much in- terfe3 1. i )re he as was the red. letl, ovi- rnot )rary rious Instructons for Philip Gidley King, F/g; Superintendant andComtnandant of the Settlement o/* Nor- folk Island. . ., * '-• ntlie New 10 m. com- orfolk 3Lt title com- WiTH thefe inftru£lion8 you will receive my Com- miflion, appointing you to ilipcrintcnd and command the fettlemeiit to be formed in Norfolk Ifland, and to oJjey all fuch orders as you (hall from time to time re- ceive from me, his Majefty's Governor in Chief, and Captain General of the territory of New South Wales and its dependencies, or from the Lieutenant-Governor in my ablence. You are therefore to proceed in his Majefty's armed tender Supply, whofe commander has my orders to re- ceive you, with the men and women, (lores and pro- vifions nece(rary for forming the intended fettlement ; and on your landing on Norfolk Ifland you are to take upon you the execution of the truft repoled in you, caufmg my commilfion, appointing you fuperintend- ant over the faid fettlement, to be publicly read. I After having taken the nece(rary meafurss for fecuring m^ieByourfelf and people, and for the prefervation of the JidlcyBJiores and proviiions, you are immediately to proceed usi ^J^Bio the cultivation of the Flax Plant, which you will find in hisjgfowing fpontaneoufly on the illand : as likewife to the ultivation of cotton, corn, and other plants, with the eds of which you are furniftied, and which you are to gard as public (lock, and of the increafe of which you ire to fend me an account, that I may know what quan- 'ty may be drawn from the iiland for public uie, or hat lupplies it may be iieceflary to lend hereafter. It left to your difcretion to ule fuch part of the corn that is ifed as may be found necefl'ary ; but this you are to do ith the greateft oeconcmy ; -and as the corn, flax, cot- [1, and other grains are the property of the Crown, ,d as fuch are to be accounted for, you are to keep an exa^ V VUS'.l ■'■ff m ■W" • • 9J4 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUIH WALES, fels then G cxadl account of the increafe, and you will in future re- ceive diredlions for the difpofal thereof. You are to inform yourfelf of the nature of the fci! what proportion of land you find proper for the cultiva- tion or corn, flax, and cotton, as likewife what quantity of cattle may be bred on the ifland, and the r r.mber of people you judge neceflfary for the above purpofe. You will likewiie obJerve what are the prevailing winds in the difl^erent feafbns of the year, the beft anchorage ac- cording to the feafon, the rife and fall of the tides, like- wife when the dry and rainy feafons begin and end. You will be furnifhed with a four oared boat^ and you are not on any confideration to build, or to permit the building of any veflel or boat whatever that is decked • or of any boat or veifel that is not decked, whofe length of keels exceeds twenty feet : and if by any accident any veflTel or boat that exceeds twenty feet keel ihould be driven on the ifland, you are immediately to caufe fuch boat or veflfd to be fcuttled, or otherwife rendered un- ferviceable, letting her remain in that fituation until you receive further directions from me. You V, *11 be furnifhed with fix months provifions, within which time you will receive an additional fup- ply, but as you will be able to procure filh and vegeta- bles, you are to endeavour to make the provifions you receive ferve as lon^ as poffible. The convicts being the fervants ot the Crown, till the time for which they are fentenced is expired, theirB 7^^ ^^* labour is to be for the public ; and you are to take par-B ^"^V ' ticular notice of their general good or bad behaviour,! ?^'^ ^° that they may hereafter be employed or rewarded ac-B,.jPL ?" cording to their diiferent meritj.. Go^ thougi comm ment c There could t focial d and wii the dart which, when n Toward was coi Sentence was exe robbed You are to caufe the Prayers of the Church of Eng-Bf" ^^^» land to be read with all due folemnity every Sunday, andB' ^?, '^"^ you are to ioforce a due obfervance cf religion and gooc order, tranfmitti i,g to me, as often as opportunity offt TSjaBj-T full account of your particular fituation and tranfadtionsi*! ^'^uVf You are not to permit any intercourfe or trade wit any fliips or veiTels that may flop at the iiland, whethei Engli;' of a moti) On the fong boat! Voi. IL. ■PMP VOYAGE TO KEV/ SOUTH VfALES. pi5 Englifti or of any other nation, imlers fuch (hips or vel^ iels fhoald be in dillrefs, in which cafe you are to afford them fuch alliftance as may be in your powx°r. Given under my hand, at Head Quarters in Port fackfon, New South Wales, this 12th day of February, 1778. (Signed) ARTHUR PHILLIP. Governor Phillip foon found with great regret, though doubtlefs without much furprife, that in the community committed to his care the ftri£l: enforce- ment of the faniSions of law was peculiarly neceiTary. 1 here were in it many individuals whom neither lenity could touch, nor rigour terrify ; who, with all fenfe of fecial duty, appeared to have loft all value for life itfelf, and with the fame wantonnefs expofed themfelves to the darrs of the favages, and to the fevere punilhments which, however reluctantly, every fociety muft inflidt when milder methods have been tried without fuccefti. Towards the btter end of February a a'iminal court was convened in which fix of the convids received fentence of death. One, who was head of the gang, was executed the fame day ; of the rcll, one w^as par- doned ; the other four were reprieved, and afterwards exiled to a fmall ifland within the bay, wherv: they were kept on bread and water. Thefe men had frequently robbed the ftores, and the other convids. He who fuffered, and twu others, had been detecSted in ftealing from the ftores the very day that they had received a week's provifion ; at a time when their allowance, as [fettled by the Navy Board, n'as the fame as that of the Ifoldiers, fpirituous liquors excepted. So inveterate were |their habits of difhonefty, that even the apparent want of a motive could not reprefs them. On the 2d of March Governor Phillip went with a Jong boat and cuttci: to examine the broken land, mea- Vol. II.— N*' 49. 5 2a tioned ^i6 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. tioned by Captain Cook, about eight miles to the north- ward of Port Jackfon, and by him named Broken Bay, This bay proved to be very extenfive. The firft night they flept in the boats, within a rocky point in the N. W. part of the bay, as the natives, though friendly, ap- peared to be numerous ; and the next day, after paffing a bar that had only water for fmall vefleis, they entered a very extenfive branch, from which the ebb tide came out fo ftrong that the boats could not row againft it in the ftream ; and here was deep water. This opening appeared to end in feveral fmall branches, and in a large lagoon which could not then be examined, as there was not time to feek a channel for the boats among the banks of fand and mud. Moft of the land in the upper part of this branch was low and full of fwamps. reli- cans and various other birds were here feen in great numbers. Among the reft an uncommon kind, called then the Hooded Gull, and fuppofed to be a non defcript ; but it appears from a drawing fent to England, to be of that fpecies called by Mr Latham the Cafpian Tern, and is defcribed by him as the fecond variety of that fpecies. Leaving this N. W. branch they proceeded acrofs the bay, and went into the S. W. branch. This is alfo very extenfive ; and from it runs a fecond opening to the weftwvd, affording (helter for almoft iany number of fliips. In this part, as far as could then be examined, there is water for vefleis of the greateft burthen, the foundings being at the entrance feven fathoms, and in going up ftill more. Continual rains prevented them from taking a furvey. The land here was found much higher than at Port Jackfon, more rocky, and equally covered with timber. Large trees were feen growing| even on the fummits of the mountains, which ap peared acceflible only to birds. Immediately round th headland that forms the fouthern entrance into the bay, there is a third branch, which Governor Phillip thou^hi the fineft piece of water he had ever feen ; and whid therefore he thought worthy to be honoured with thi nanii ii-uii^joyeq frequent]) |I)rea/t. *] pthefeco ^^kh ivaj favc rheir laved in t governor ''i^e, a nu ^as now ill general le kh bar 'fn. he at , ^f marria^ ^f where , I"' of five Nlated ; [other whc lom all tJ VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. 917 ^' name of Pin Water, This, as well as the S. W. branch, is of fufficient extent to contain all the navy of Great Britain. But on a narrow bar which i*uns acrofs the entrance it has only eighteen feet depth of water. Within the bar there are from feven to fifteen fathoms. The land is not fo high in this part as in the S. W. branch, and there are fome good fituations where the land might be cultivated. Small fprings of water were feen in moft of the coves, and three cafcades falling from heights, which the rains at that time rendered inacceffible. In this excurfion fome interviews with the natives took place. When the party firfl landed in Broken Bay feveral women came down 10 the beach with the men. One of thefe, a young woman, was very talkative and remarkably cheerful. This was a fmgular inftance, for in general they are obferved on this coaft to be much lefs cheerful rhan the men, and apparently under great awe and fubje(ftion. They certainly are not treated with much tendernefs, and it is thought that they are employed chiefly in the canoes, in which women have frequently been feen with very yOung children at the ibreait. The lively young lady, when (he joined the par- ty the fecond day, in her canoe, flood up and gave a long hich was far from unpleafmg. The men very readily avc their affiftancetotheEngliftiini l:ingafire,and he- aved in the moft friendly manner. In a bay where overnor Phillip and his company landed Lu draw the ine, a number of the nativ.;s again came to them. Ic as now firft obferved by the Governor that the women general had loft two joints from the middle finger uf e left hand. As thefe appeared to be all married wo- en, he at firft conjedured this privation to be a part of c marriage ceremony ; but going afterwards mto a , jt where were feveral women and children, he faw a u Iff ^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^ years of age whofe left hand was thus A^^ Mutilated ; and at the fame time an old woman, and • K thW ^^^ appeared to have had children, on both of ^^^^^pom all the fingers were perfed. Several inftances 5 Z 2 were bt SI. ip- ng red me tin ling arge was the ■^ great called cript*, to be Tern^ 3f that m w naml ^i8 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. were afterwards obferved of women with child, and of others that were evidently wives, who had not loft the two joints, and of children from whom they had been cut. Whatever be the occafion of this mutilation, it is performed on females only ; and confidering the imper- fection of their inftruments, muft be a very painful ope- ration. Nothing has been feen in the pofleuion of thefe people that is at all calculated for performing fuch an amputation, except a fhell fixed to a (hort ftick,and iifed generally for pointing their fpears, or for feparating oyfters from the rocks. More fingers than one are never cut : and in every inftance it is the fame finger that has fuflered. The men are diitinguilhed in a diiTerent manner: their fingers are not mutilated, but moft of them, as other voyagers have obferved, want the right front tooth in the upper jiw. Governor Phillip having remarked this, pointed out to them that he had himfelf loft one of his front- teeth, which occafioned a great clamour ; and it was thought that he derived fome merit .in theifi opinion from this circumftance. The perforation oi the cartilage that divides the noftrils, and the ftrang disfiguring ornament of a long bone or ftick thru through it, was now obferved, as defcribed by Captai Cook ; and the fame appellation of fprit-fail yard, wa ludicroufly applied to it by the failors. But feveral ver old men were feen in this excurfion who had not loi the tooth, nor had their nofes prepared to receive th grotefque appendage : probably, therefore, thefe a marks of diftiniflion : ambition muft have its badgq and where cloailis, are not worn, the body itfelf uju, be compelled to btar them. Whether the fears raifed upon the fkin were oft k'nd, oras Captain Gookunderftoodby their figns, mar| oi forrow fordcceafed friends, could not now be lean They are of a very fingular nature : fometimcsthe is raifed from the flelli for (everal inches, appearing jf it were filled with win !, and forming a round furfi] of more than a quarter of ^n inch diameter, Their Havi wg "f i /• VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. 9'f anner : it tooth I marked I loft one amour;! "m tiieirl ^s giveii ceeJingjy a Itrong a |a very im each of wl |ing milis : 'wrings ha\ , The clin ferved fror p.efea, anc kmter, tha Fruption, ^oiyers fro lot indeed ( land, but ( Mh in all Ne, and o Ngoars,nc VoJ. ll^i;^ VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. 923 fizs, and magnitiule, far Cuperlor to any he had ever feen. Nothing can exceed the fertility of ks foil. Wherever it has heen iince examined, a rich black mould has beea found to the depth of live or iix ftet: and the grain and garden feeds which 1 ave been ("own, fuch only excepted as were damaged in the carria;*e, or by the weevil, have vet^etated with the utmofl luxurianct. To prevent re- petitions, it may perjiips be heft to unite in this place the accounts which have been receive! of this ifland, thouf^h many of them will eafily be perceived to be greatly poiterior to this firll return of the Supply. Norfolk Illind is about feven leagues in circumfe- rence, ami if not originally formed, like many other ffnall iflands, by the eruption of volcanic matter from ihe bed of the iea, muft doubtlefs have contained a vol- cano. This concluiion is formed from thcvaft quantity of pumice ftone which is fcattered iu £^il parts of it, and mixed with the foil. The crater, or at lead fome traces of its former cxUtence, will probably be found at the jummit of a fmall Aiouatain, which rifes near the mid- dle of the ifland. To this mountain the Commandant jhss given tlte name of Mount Pitt, The iflind is ex- jceeJingly well watered. Ac or near Mount Pitt, rifts a llrong and copious ftream, which flowing through a very line valley, divides itfelf into feverai branches, each of which retains fufficient force to be ufcd in turn- ing mills : and in various parts of the ifland excellent Ifprings have been difcovered. I The climate is pure, falubrious, and delightful, pre- Iferved from oppreflive heats by conftant breezes from Ithe lea, and of fo mild a temperature throughout the Iwinter, that vegetation continues there without in- jterruption, one crop fucceeding another. Refrefliing io\yers from time to time maintain perpetual verdure ; pot indeed of grafs, for none has yet been feen upon the Hand, but pf the trees, fhrubs, and other vegetables vluch in all parts grow abundandy. On the leaves of Ihcfe, and of fome kinds in particular, the (heep, hogs, )nd goats, not only live, but thrive and tatteii very much. Vol. IL— N«> 49. , 6A To i .vi?f iu VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. To the falubrity of the air every individual in this little co- lony can bear ample tcftimony, from the Uninterrupted ftate of good health which has been in general enjoyed. When our fettlers landed, there was not a fingle acre clear of wood in the ifland, and the trees were fo bound together by that kind of creeping (hrub called fupple jack, interwoven in all diredtions, as to render it very difficult to penetrate far among them. The Command- ant, fmall as his numbers were at firft, by indefatigable activity foon caufed a fpace to be clearea fufficient for the requifite accommodations, and for the produdion of efculent vegetables of all kinds in the greateft abun- dance. When the laft accounts arrived, three acres of 1)arley were in a very thriving ftate, and ground was prepared to receive rice and Indian corn. In the wheat there had been a difappointment, the grain that was fown having been fo much injured by the weevil, as to be unfit for vegetation. But the people were all at that time in commodious houfes ; and, according to the de- clarations of Mr King himfelf, in his letters to Governor Phillip, there was not a doubt that this colony would be in a fituation to fupport itfelf intirely without affift- iance, in lefsthan four years: atid with very little in thej intermediate time. Even two years would be morei than fufficient for this purpofe, could a proper fupply of j black cattle be fent. ^ [ Fifti are caught in great plenty, and in the proper fea- fon very fine turtle. The woods are inhabited by in-l numerable tribes of birds, many of them very gay inl plumage. The moft ufeful are pigeons, which arej very numerous, and a bird not unlike the Guinea fowl,! except in colour, (being chiefly white) both of whichl were at firft fo tame as to fufFer themfelves to be takenT by hand. Of plants that afford vegetables for the tablej the chief are cabbage palm, the wild plantain, the fern tree, a kind of wild fpinnage, and a tree which produces -a diminutive fruit, bearing fome rcfcmblance to a curJ rant. This, it is hoped, by tranfplanting and care, wilj be much improved in iize and flavour. rOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. f25 But the prod unions which give the greateft import- ance to Norfolk Illand are the pines and the flax plant, the former riling to a lize and perfei^ion unknown in other places, and promiling the moll valuahle fupply of mails and fpars for our navy in the Eaft Indies ; the lat- ter not lefs eftimable for the purpofes of making fail- cloth, cordage, and even the fined manufa to loiul with inafts and fparr. at Norfolk llland, than in that place, where io many (hips are freighted yearly. R.ats are the only quadiupeds which have bten found in this ifland ; and irom thefe, as well as from the ants, it was feared the crops miglit fuffer ; bur no great inconvenience has yet been experienced hcia them ; and proper exertions Icldom fail in a fnorttime to reduce the number of fuch enemies, enough to make their depredations very inccnliderable. On the whole, Norfolk liland certainly del'erves to be conlidered as an acquifition of fome importance, and is likely to anfwer even the moft fanguine expedlations. Some canoes have been found on the rocks, which were fupporvJ to have been driven from New Zealand ; but the appear- ance of a frefh cocoa nut and a fmall piece of ma- nufactured wood, which feemed to have been only a fmall time in the w^ater, has lately fuggefted an idea that probably fome inhabited illand may lie at no great dif- tance. There has not been as yet any opportuiiity to determine whether this opinion be well founded or not. A fmall ifland, but entirely uninhabited, was dif- coveicd by Lieutenant Ball in his palfage to Norfolk Ifland. In his return he examined it, and found that the (hore abounded with turtle, but there was no good anchorage. He named it Lord Howe Ifland. It is in 31 d. 3601. S. latitude, and 159 d. E. longitude. Part of thisdland being very high may be feen at the diftance of fixteen leagues, and a rock to the S. E. of it, may be | difcernedi VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. fn tVifcerned even at eighteen leagues. In lititude 29 d. 25 m. S. longitude 159 d. 59 ni. E. a very dangerous ri'f has fmce heen fecn. The Ihip from which it was obferved was then four leagues to the fouthward, and it could not at that time be aicertaincd how far it extends totlie northward. To expedite the cultivation of NorfolL Ifland a frefli detachment was lent thither in Odoher, confifting of an officer and eight marines, with thirty convidls, con- lifting of ten women and twenty men : Thus, there €xilled on this illet, when the lalt accounts were tranf- mitted, forty-four men and fixtecn women, who, having eigliteen months provifions, lived comtbrtahly on this fequeftered fpof, imder the prudent management of a youthful ruler, of whole bufy life the reader may wifli to know all the particulars, which at prefcnt can be authentically told. Philip Gidley Kinn:, who had the honour to condudl the original fettlers to Norfolk liland, was horn at Laun- cefton in Cornwall, on the 23d of April, 1 756. He is the fon of Phihp King, of that town, draper, who mar- ried the daughter of John Gidley, of Hxeter, attorney at law. Much as he owes to his parents, he is indebted for his fcholaftic learning to Mr Bailey at Yarmouth. He derives, probably, fome advantages from making an early choice of his profefTinn. At the age of twelve, he went to the Eaft Indies on board the Swallow frigate, Captain Shirley, by whom he was rated a midftiipman. From this ttation he returned to England, at the end of five years, with much knowledge of his bufmefs, and Ibme acquaintance with the world. In 1 775, he enter- ed upon real fervice ; and has continued in aiStive em- ployment fi jm that period to this great epoch of his life. He went to Virginia with Cap'^ain Bellew, in the Liverpool, during the year 1775 : with whom he con- tinued till the Ihip wreck of that trigate in Delaware Bay. And having entered on board the Princefs ^Ibyal, in lOdober 1778, he was made a Lieutenant by Admiral jfiyron, in the Renown, on the 2f>th of November fol- lowing. ^w^ fiS VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. lowing. He returned to England in the fubfequent year; and ferved in the Channel on board the Kite cutter, and Ariadne-frigate, till the beginni.T>g of 1783. "With Captain Phillip he went to the Eaft Indies, as Lieutenant of the Europe, in January 1783; from wh^iice he returned on the reftoration of complete peace, in May 1 784. In this fervice it was, that Phillip and King became acquainted with the merit of each other. And when the expedition to New South Wales was projeed peopL ftreams which defcend into Pn« ^f.? "^ "'« «na1 proceed from fwamps p "Jle^^, J^-^tion. They all the water after rifing from the cJ-^^ %"ation of obftacles which impede thS. '?-""S^- When the and free channels opened thrr^' "V^ '^= '^mov^t flow the adjacent groSwitelrl'''', '^^^ "S the ftreams themfelves will berfm ^ ''^ '^"'^'ned, and pbftacles theafcending and ddinH: '^ ™'"^'' ^ various m many parts imprafticable Af i^J^l' '''^'^"'t. and fifteen miles from the fea-cotft r 1 ''" '''^^"'^^ "fabom ed a very fine view of the inland'"!'™"''^''''^ obtai^ tains, to feveral of which he now"""'^ """^ "« tno„„. moft northern of them he n.JTr^ ^^''^ "^mes- tL moft fouthern LanfdowS hT' on^^Tl^"^ »"'. th^ thefe was called Richmond Hill v '"^'"^ '^^ between which thefe mountains appeaT^ed JT!-^' "^'^er in almoft certain that a lar^rriv. ^° "^^> " was thought and after palling the ch rf„/« '^u ' V'r '^^ofecovtr- t«>pts;o make thefr w^^^^^^^ 't '^'^' '" f^itlefi al' knq«.ih the attempt^ rt? V nl.tfef t^ li**"^ ' ".^' ■'uj f3* TOY AGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. keeping clofe to the banks of a fmall creek for about four miles, they contrived to pafs the cover, and for the thr^ fiacceeding days continued their courfe to the weft- waffA~ The country through which they travelled was iingularly fine, level, or rifmg in fmall hills of a very fjteafing and pidturei'que appearance. The foil excel- ent, eiCcept in a few Imall fpots where it was (lony. Th€ tfees growing at the diftance of from twenty to forty feet from each other, and in general entirely free from underwood, which was confined to \h6 ftony and barren fpots. On the fifth day they afcended a fmall eminence, whence, for the firft time in this iecond ex- pedition, theyfaw Carmarthen and Lanfdown Hills. .The country round this hill was fo beautiful, that Go- vernor Phillip gave it the name oiBelle-vue. They were ilill apparently thirty miles from the mountains which it had been their obje£t to reach, and not having found it pradlicable, with the tcnls, arms, and other neceflarics, to carry more than fix days provifions, were obliged to return. Even with this fmall flock, the officers as well as men, had been under the neceffity of carrying heavy loads. Water for the ufe of the day was always taken ; for though it happened in every inftance that pools of fcoodne/s I water were found which had remained after the rains, ifiie native yet this was a fupply on which they could not previouf- Pfs fertiliti ly depend. The extraordinary difficulty of penetrating icoaft fifh hito thii country had now been fully experienced j Inhere tha where unexpeded delays from deep ravines and other i^ith their obftacles, freqiiently force the travelk*- from his dircdliniong th courfe, and baffle every conjecture Governing the dmep animal required for paffing a certain trad. The utmoft extent B^e Engli of this excurfion in a dired line had not been moreP^ys they than thirty miles, and it had taken up five days. Thefro meals, return of the party was effeded with much more eafcjwatjves wa the track was made, and the trees marked the whule wayj^hich wer where they had pafied ; with thefe :afliHances theyButs the b( reached their boats in a day and a half. ; »ecs were It was ftili thegencralopinion that tlie appearance oiWiat of the the country promifed the dlfcovery^of^" Jarge river JMWllip ; pai tha#nt!ythati| Aat purjfi whic Lan/( impo] anxio which fign w nor PI timeoi then c( quentJj ^"ffo hi found it of a fev\ fatigue, Thect and fo fit norrefoh as a fuffic more imi VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. 9V [he ^a- ery cel- my. y to free and 'mall I ex- rliUs. Go- were which Ibuvid GTarics, ged to well as heavy taken ; that diftridl, whenever the line now taken could be fully purfued. Another expedition was therefore plannf fK ia which it was determined, if pofiible, to reach eJfelaer Lanfdown or Carmarthen Hills : and the hope of fo important a difcovery as that of a river made everyone anxious to go, notwithftanding the great fatigue with which thefe undertakings were attended. But this de-^ f]gn was for the prefent unavoidably deferred. Gover- nor Phillip, who had not been perfectly well even at the time of letting out on the excurfion to Broken Bay, had then contra6:ed a fevere pain in his fide, by fleeping fre- quenriy on the wet ground. This complaint had in the two laft journies received fo much increafe, that he found it abfolutely necelTary to allow himfelf the refpite of a few weeks, before he again encountered fo much fatigue, TThe country explored in this laft journey was fo good and fo fit for the purpofes of cultivation, that the Gover- nor refolved to fend a detachment to fetde there, as foon as a fufficient number could be fpared from works of more immediate neccllity. But notwithftanding the ools of Igoodnefs of the foil it is a matter of aftonifhment how rains, W^^ natives, who know not how to avail themfelvcs of viouf- 1*'^ fertility, can fubfift in the inland country. On the •trating Icoaft filh makes a confiderable part of their food, but enced • 1^^^^^ ^^*t cannot be had, it feems hardly poflible that d other frif^ their fpears, the only miffile weapon yet obferved dircd|*"^°"? them, they (hould be able to procure any kind e timer animal food. With the affiftance of their guns extcntlf^^ Englifh gentlemen could not obtain, in the laft fix inorefry^ they were out, more than wj^s barely fufficient for Thefro meals. Yet, that thefe parts are frequented by the. atives was undeniably proved by the temporary huts hich were feen in feveral places. Near one or thefe uts the bones of a kanguroo were found, and feveral CCS were feen on fire, A piece of a root refembling. [liat of the fern tree was alfo picked up by Governor hillip ; part of this root had been chewed, and fo re- ntly that it was thought it could not have been left man y Vol II. -N^ 49' 6 8 ttiinutes. ,v Ire eafc;. lulewayl les lliey Iranceoi Iriver w Nl i ' ■■ i 932 VOYAGE To NEW SOUTH WALES. minutes. It feemed evident by feveral marks, that thp natives had only fled at the approach of the Englilh par- ty, but fo effedually did they conceal themfelves, that not one was feen. The number of the natives in thefe inland parts muft, however, be very frnall. Whether thefe refide by choice where they muft encounter fo many difliculties, or whether ihey aie driven from thefociety of thofe who inhabit the coaft, has not yet been difcovered. The huts feen here confifted of (ingle pieces of bark, about eleven feet in length, and from foiir to fix in breadth, bent in the middle while freCh frcm the tree, and fet up fo as to form an acute angle, not a little refembllng cards fet up by children. It was conjediured, that the chief ufe of tliefe imperfe4l ftrudlures might be, to conceal them from the animals for which they mu!k frequently be obliged to lie in wait. They may alfo aflbrd (belter from a iliower of rain to one or two who fit and lie under them. The bark of many trees was obferved to be cut into notches, as if for the purpofe of climbing ; and in feveral there were holes, apparently the retreat of fome animal, but enlarged by the natives for the purpofe of catching the inhabitant. The enlargement of thefe holes, with their imperfe£i inftruments, muft itfelf be a work of time, and muft require no little patience. In fome places, where the hole was rather too high to be reached from the ground, boughs of trees were laid to £siciluate the afcent. The animals that take refuge in thofe places are probably the fquirrel, the opoflTum, or the kanguroo-rat. At the bottom of one of thefe tree&i the Ikin of a flying fquirrel was found. In many places fires had lately been made ; but in one only v;ere feenar^y {hells of oyfterspr mufcles, and' there not n ore than half a dozen. Fifh-bones were notj found at all, which feems to prove, that in their journiesj inland thefe people do not carry vfith them any provifionsi of thatkind. Kanguroos were frequently feen, but wen fo (hy that it was very diflicult to ihoof them. With re; fped to thefe animals, it is rather an e^^traordinary cir- cumftancfijtempt to^ cuml and I are f couni boa i] progr of the to cor traord one g< fuflici^ rat anc has yet poundi kinds, weight hair is ( the hq tak^n, I have liv poflible tnown. ufual fizl non, th( limits The tail to be ufei fevere bj purfuit. tably be I of frefli Ppper an| been fho The and m uncr VOYAGE TO NEW SOlTTH WALES. 93J cumftance, that, notwithftanding their great (hynefs, and notwithftanding they are daily fhot at, more of thern are feen near the camp than in any other part of the country. The kanguroo, though it refemblcs the jer- boa in the peculiarity of ufing only .the hinder legs ii^ progreflion, does not belong to that genus. The poychr of the female, in which the young are nurfed, is thought to connedt it rather with the oponuni tribe. This ex- traordinary formation, hitherto efteemed peculiar to tliat one genus, feems, however, in New Holland, not to be fufficiently charaderiftic : it has been found both in the rat and the fquirrel kind. The largeft kanguroo which has yet been Ihot weighed about one hundred and forty pounds. But it has been difcovered that there are two kinds, one of which feldom exceeds fixty pounds in weight : thefe live chiefly on the high grounds : their hair is of a reddifti caft, and the head is fhorter than in the larger fort. Young kanguroos which have been tak^n, have in a few days grown very tame, but none have lived more than two or three weeks. Yet it is ftill poflible that when their proper food (hall be better tnoVvn, they may be domeflicated. Near fome water, in this journey, was found the dung of an animal that fed on grafs, which, it was fuppoied, could not have been lefs than a horfe. A kanguroo, fo much above the ufual fize, would have been an extraordinary phaenome- non, though no larger animal has yet been feen, and the limits of growth in that fpecies are not afcertained. The tail of the kanguroo, which is very large, is found to be ufed as a weapon of offence, and has given fuch I fevere blows to dogs as to oblige them to defift from I Burfuit. Its fiefli is coarfe and lean, nor would it pro- Qi^bly be ufed for food, where there was not a fcarcity of freih provifions. The difproportion between thi Vpper and lower parts of this animal is greater thanhai been ftiown in any former delineations of it. The natives of New South Wales, though in fo rii'dii and uncivilized a ftate as not even to have made an at- • [tempt towards clothing themfelves, notwithftaiiding ihd 6 B 2 at UM^* m m^ 1- ' m ^34 Voyage to new south wales. at times they evidently fufFer from the cold and wet, are not without notions of fculpture. In all thefe ex-. curfions of Governor Phillip, and in the neighbour- hood of Botany Bay and Port Jackfon, the figures of animals, of Ihields, and weapons, and even of men, have been fecn carved upon' the rocks, roughly indeed, feut fufficiently well to afcertain very fully what was the objedt intended. Fiih were oiten rcprefented, and in one place the form of a large lizard was Ik etch- ed out with tolerable accuracy. On the top of one of the hills, the figure of a man in the attitude ufually afllirned by them when they begin to dance, was exe- cuted in a ftill fupcrior ftyle. That the arts of imita- tion and amufement fhould thus in any degree pre- cede thofe of neccffity, feems an exception to the rules laid down by theory for the progrefs of invention. But perhaps it may better be confidered as a proof that the climate is never fo fevere as to make tlie provifion of covering or Ihelter a matter of abfolute neceflity. Had thefe men been expofed to a colder atmofphere, they would doubtlefs have had clothes and houfes, before they attempted to become fculptors. In all the country hitherto explored, the parties have feldom gone a quarter of a mile without feeing trees which had been on fire. As violent thunder ftormsare not uncommon on this coaft, it is not impoflible that they may have been burnt by lightning, which the gum- tree is thought particularly to attra ^ ; but it is proba- ble alfo that they have been fet on fire by the natives. The gum-tree is highly combuftible, and it is a com- mon practice with them to kindle their fires at the root of one of thefe trees. When they quit a place they never extinquifh the fire they have made, but leave it to burn out, or to communicate its flames to the tree, as accidental circumftances may determine. Governc Phillip, on his return from this excurfion, had the mortification to find that fivetewes and a lamb liad been killed very near the camp, and in the mid- dle of the day. How* this had happened was not * known, kn be( lofi for cou an are ine and ed, ] in h( whic two j Frc of the prefer barley would mice, it had Was fei iine ag" On, from I having with in her bef The thi off the Abou ing for *e cam back, for the {i tives in head. A Ipierced w VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES &'d"b; r;«r *- they .„ft Z lofs of anypa^of the ftoK ^„? ^^ "«•'«. The fortune, flnce it muft he , 'r?'^ ^^ ^ ferious mis! could be replaced FiA affol^'-*'''!.'*'"^ ^f^^^t an uncertain refource on W%'" *'' P'ace, only are caught, though not fuffiS to'^L^'"' '»"""'«!« part °f the provTfions ; but at Hm« -7? ""'^ «"erial J ne three tranfDortshnM„j7 ^, . ™^s " is very fcarcp and 8th ofMay rS S^^^°C^'n^.failedthe JtS" .ed, failed on tie 6th to ifr?^^ havbgbeen caulk-' ofthe grou^dT^rtTtotet nrf^Hl'^^ <='-'"8 prefent more than eight or ten ?J' "^^^^'^ ^o fow at Wley : and it was SrSendedfhir"'''^'"^^ ^nd would fuller from the clepredat1nn^^^^^" 'his crop mice. In the beginning SaH 5 '?' '"'"''^^'S " had been once or twice WoVI ^u^T '"PPoftd, as ^^ fet m ■ but in abJut aweel^ %fi^' T'^y f''^<^^ nne agam. * ^^^'^ the weather became fromLord ^Swf ifc 'hf^^^P?''' '«nder returned haj-ing been ableto nil ' ' "nfortunately withoir whh Lally SaXfrdTad^Yerb^- -f"'''^ -' her beft bower anchor, but fnffeSl n ^'1.^° "="' "way ^e three tranfports bound for r? "°., '^J'*^'" damage, off the ifland while the S;?,r> i *"".* ''^^ all appeared . About this time one fffff'''''^T^'^'-''«^e 'ngforvegetableThTd SS^Tonrfdrtr''" ^'^^^^- *e camp, return^,! ,,»,? j conliderable wav Jiom back, if; fainhat anmt"'^''°""\'^°""ded'^^, rt™ for the fame puroof] h^H ? ""^^ ^''^ '^d gone out [P-'i ^«h .pears. « ^ne^^^f ^fe-J^tiiS^e:^ bat 'ii ^a VOtAGE to NEW SOlttH WALES. but no intelligence of the man could ht gained. Thfcrfe fcould be fitde doubt that the cohvifts had been the ag- greflbrs, though the man who returned ftrongly deftied h jrving given any kind of provocation. On the thirtieth of May, two men who had beeii empWed in collecting rufhes for thatch at foitie dif- tance frbih the camp, were found dead. One of them had fopt fpears in his body, one of which had pierced efitire!y through it : the other had not any marks of violence upon him. In this cafe it was clearly proved that the firft injury had been offered by the untbrtunate ttien, who pai^d fo dearly for their diihonefty and dil- obedrence of orders for tney had been feen witn a canoe, which they had takeft from one of the fifhing places.: — Thefe events were much regretted by Govetnor Phillip, as tending entirely to the fruftratioil of the plan he had fomtfch at heart, of concifiathlg the affeanner. Numbers of women and children remain- eid at a fmall diftance, fome of whom the n^en after-, wards brought down to receive the little articles which were offered as prefents. Nothing was feen among theie people which could at all prove that any of then^ had been engaged in the affray with the rulh-cutters j and t(i? Governor parted with them on the moft friend-* ly terms, but niore convinced than ever of the neceflity pf treating them with a proper degree pf confidence, in order to prevent difagreement. Had he gone up 1 with all his party, or had he even hefitated a momen; I before he advanced himfelf, making the fignj^ls of friend- I (hip, a lance would probably have been thrown, after which nothing could have prevented a rencounter. mhich ift fvich circumftaaqes muft havet)een fatal Her^ II II '''I t li !,%) 93B VOYAGE to NEW SOUTH WALES. Here was feen the fineft ftream of water that had hitherto been difcovered in the country, but the cove into which it runs lies very open to the lea. When the natives faw that the Englifh were going forward to- wards the next cove, one of them, an old man, made figns that he might be allowed to go firft. He did fo, and as fodn as he had afcended the hill, called out, hold- ing up both his hands, (the ufual fignal of amity among thefe people) to fignify to the natives in the next cove that they whc were advancing were friends. The Governor's party did not, however, defcend to that cove, but faw about forty men, fo that, unlefs they had af!emhled themfelves on fome particular occafion, they muft be more numerous in that part than had been before imagined. Governor Phillip had calculated be- fore, from the parties he had feen, that in Botany Bay, Port Jackfon, Broken Bay, and all the intermediate country, the inhabitants could not exceed one thoufand five hundred. In croffing the hills at this time between Botany Bay and Port Jackfon, fmoke was feen on the top of Lanldo^n Hills, ;hich feems to prove beyond a doubt, that th6 country is inhabited as far as thofe moun- tains, which are not lefs than fifty miles from the fea. Further enquiries having given fome reafon to fup- pofe, that one of the natives had been murdered, and feveral wounded, previoufly to the attack made upon the ru(h-cutters. Governor Phillip on his return, pro- claimed the reward of emancipation to any convid who (hould difcover the aggreffors. This ftep, if it did not in this inftance procure any information, feemed likely to prevent fuch adis of violence in future. No very good fortune had hitherto attended the live flock belonging to the fettlement, but the heavieft blow was yet to come. About this time the two bulls and four cows, belonging to Government and to the Go- vernor, having been left for a time by the man who was appointed to attend them, ftrayed into the woods, and t^9U^l^ they were traced to forne dift^nce, never could her time T due and i\in-\ twen man*] fun-i from wlioL not b four i banii] ceiveci in the with t charad a fing mlnioi to all any tl^ mark good in mo that oj It w VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. 93^ be rerovered. This was a lofs which mufl be for fome time irreparable. The fourth of June was not fufFered to pafs without, due celebration. It was a day of remiffion frora labour, and of general fcflivity tl-.rou;^hout the lettlctncnt. At fun-rife the Sirius and Supply fired each a faiutc of twenty-one guns, and agiin at one o'clock, when the marines on (hore alio fi luted with three vollies. At fun-fet the fame honours w^ere a third time repeated" from the fliips ; larp;e bonfires were lighted, and the whole camp afforded a fcene of joy. That there might not be any exception to the happinefs of this day, the four convivSts who had been reprieved from death, and banillied to an ifland in the middle of the harbour, re- ceived a full pardon, and were fcnt for to bear their part in the general exultation. The Governor, in his letters, with that humanity which fo ftrongly diftinguiflies his charadler, fays, he trufts that on this day there was not a fingle heavy heart in this part of his Majesty's do- minions. His own houfc was the centre of conviviality to all who could be admitted to that focicty, nor was any thing neglected which in fuch a fituation could mark a day of cciebrity, confiftently w^ith propriety and good order. Perhaps no birth-day w^as ever celebrated in more place?., or more remote from each other, thaa that of his IVlajelly on this day. It was now, it ieems, firft generally known, that the' name of Cumberland County had been given by the Governor to this part of the territory. This name had been fixed before the alTembling of the firft courts, for the fake of preferving regularity in tlic form of the public adts, in which it is uiual to name the country. The boundaries fixed for C'iiri^:ci land County were, on the weft, Carmarthen zvA Lanfdovvn Hills : on the north, the northern parts of Broken Bay ; and to the fouthward, the fouthern parts of Botany Bay. Thus including completely thefc three principal bays, and leaving the chief place of fettlement at Sydney Cove nearly in the centre. rMi 44 Vol. II.— NO 50. # 6 C On 94* VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. On the 2 2d of June was a flight (hock of an earth- quake, which did not laft more than two or three Kconds. It was felt by moft people in the camp, and by the Governor himfelf, who heard at the fame time a noile from the fouthward, which he took at firft for the report of guns fired at a great diftance. On the 24th, a convi(St who had abfconded on the 5th, having been guilty of a robbery, returned into the camp almoft; ftarved. He had hoped to fubfift in the woods, but found it impoflible. One of the natives gave him a fifh, and then made figns for him to go away. He faid, that afterwards he joined a party of the natives, who would have burnt him, but that with fome difficulty he made his efcape ; and he pretended to have feen the remains of a human body adlually lying on a fire, but little credit can be given to reports from Tuch a quarter. He was of opinion that the natives were at this time in great dillrefs for food, and faid, that he had feen four of them dying in the woods, who made figns for fomething to eat, as if they were perifhing through hun- ger. It is certain that very litde fifh could be caught at this time, and the conviiSt feemed defirous to fuggeft the notion that they lupplied their neceffities occahon- ally with human fiefh ; but there feems to be no good foundation for fuch an opinion. This man was tried for his offence, pleaded guilty, and fufFered with another criminal. It was now fufficiently afcertained, that though the neceffity of fubfifting fo long chiefly upon fait pro- vifions, and of remaining encamped in very wet weather had produced the fcurvy, and other difprders common in fuch circumilances, the climate itfelf wherein this new fettlement is fixed is mild and falubrious. Heavy rains had generally attended the changes of the moon during the winter months, but there had not been any time that could properly be called a rainy feafon. The clearing away of the woods will of courfe affifl the cir- culation of air, and continually increafe the heathfulnefs ©f the place. Violent ftorms of thunder and lightning fometimes fonif variai frequ morn Th platio dually fatisfa< than V felf up appear the clc now a overgr< underw mifcuoi feives ; which i mediate fpot tol( than th( employ* increafe! duces a inextrici ance of opened, at lealt c made the mer conf Tothi now at which d town, to main gua this fpace permaner cept in CO town be i VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. 941 fomfdmes happened, and Governor Phillip obferved the variation of his thcrmomtUr, in the fliadc, to amount frequently to thirty- three degrees, between eight in the morning and two in the afternoon. Tliere are few things more pleafing than the contem- plation of order and ufei'ul arranj^cnent, arifing gra- dually out of tumult and confufion ; and perhaps this fatisfadbion cannot any where be more fully enjoyed than where a fettlement of civilized people is fixing it- felf upon a newly difcovered or favap^e coaft. The wild appearance of land entirely untouched by cultivarion, the clofe and perplexed growing of treco, interrupted now and then by barren ipots, bare rocks, or fpaces overgrown with weeds, flowers, fiowerinj^ flirubs, or underwood, fcattered and intermingled intlic mollpro- mifcuous manner, are the firft objects that prefent thcLT felves ; afterwarJs, the irregular placing ol'thc firfl tents which are pitched, or huts which are erected for im- mediate accommodation, wherever chance prefents a fpot tolerably free from obftacles, or more ealily cleared than the reft, with the buftle of various hands bulily employed in a number of the moll incongruous works, increales rather than diminiQies the diforder, and pro- duces a confufion of effect, which for a time appears inextricable, and feems to threaten an endlefs continu- ance of perplexity. But by degrees large fpacej are opened, plans are formed, lines marked, and a profpedl at lealt of future regularity is clearly difcerned, and is made the more ftriking by the rccollediion of the for- mer confufion. To this latter ftate the fettlement at Sydney Cove had now at length arrived. Lines are there traced out which diftinguifli the principal ftreet of an intended town, to be terminated by the Governor's houfe, the main guard, and the criminal court. In fome parts of this fpace temporary barracks at prefent fland, but no permanent buildings will be fufFered to be placed, ex- cept in conformity to the plan laid down. Should the to>yn be ftill further extended in future, the form of 6 G 2 other M >n S ,r«tk*,j m 942 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. other flreets is alfo traced in fuch a manner as to enfure a free circulation of air. Tlie priacipal ftreets, accord- ing to this defign, will be two hundred feet wide; the ground propoied for them to the Southward is nearly level, and is altogether an excellent fit nation for build- ings. It is propofcd by Governor Phillip that when houfes are to be built here, tlje p,rants of land (hall be made vvith fuch clauies ?iS will prevent the building of more than one houfe on one allotment, v.hich is to ronfift of fixty feet in front, and one huntired and fifty feet in depth. Thefe regulations will pref:rve a kind of uniformity in the buildings, prevent narrow (Ircets, and exclude many inconveniences v»^hich a rapid increafe of .inhabitants might otherwife occafion hereafter. It has been alfo an object of the Governor's attention to place the public buildings in fitualions tliat will be eligible at all times, and particularly to give the ilorehoules and hofpital luflicient fpace for future enlargement, Ihould it be found necefi'ary. The firft huts that w^ere ereded here were compofed of very periihable materials, the foft wood of the cab- bage palm, being only dciij^ned t© afford immediate fhelter. I'he neccffity of uling the wood quite green made it alfo thelels likely to prove durable. Ihe huis of the convidls were flill u)ore flight, being compofed only of upright pofts, wattled v^ith flight twigs, and plailcred up with clay. Barracks and huts were after- wards formed of materials rather niore lading. Build- ings of ftonc might eafily have been railed, had there been any means of procuring lime for mortar. The ftone which has been found is of three forts : A fine freeftone, reckoned equal in goodnefs to that of Port- land ; an indifierent kind of fand flone, or firefione ; and a fort which appears to contain a mixture of iron. But neither chalk, nor any fpecies of lime-floue has yet been difcovered. In building a fmall houfe for the governor on the eaflern fide of the Cove, lime was made of oyi^er fhells, colle£ted in the neighbouring coves i but it cannot be expsdled that lime fliould be fupplied fuppl VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. 943 jofed )led fupplicd in this manner for many buildings, or indeed for any of great extent. Till this difcovery ihaM be re- moved by the difcovery of chalk or lime-ilone^the pub- lic buildings muft go on very flowiy, unlefs care be ta- ken to fend out thofe articles as baliaft in all the ihips deftined for Port Jackfon. In the mean time the ma- terials can only be laid in clay, which makes it necefTary to give great thicknefs to the walls, and even then they are not fo firm as might be wiftied. Good clay for bricks is found near Sydney Cove, and very good bricTcs have been made. The wood from the fpecimens that have been received in England, appears to be good ; it is heavy indeed, but fine grained, and apparently ftrong, and free from knot-. The imperfections that were found in it at tirft arofe probably from the want of pre- vious feafoning. The hofpital is placed on tlie weft fide of ihe Cove, in a very heathful fituation, entirely clear of the town ; and is built in fuch a manner as to laft for fome years. On the high ground between the hofpital and the town, if water can be found by finking wells, it is the Governor's intention to ere<£l the barracks, furround- ing them wirii proper works. Thefc were to have as foon as the tranfports were cleared, and the kgup men Imtted, bu* ^he progrefs of work was rendered fo flow by tilt want of an adequate number of able work- men, that it was necelfary to poftpone that under- taking for a time. The ground marked out for a church lies nearer to the town, fo that this editlce will form ia part one fide of the principal parade. The defign 1 v^iich demanded the more immediate execution was that of a ftorehoufc, wliich might be fecure from the danger of fire, in a country expofed to frequent ftorms oi" thunder and lightning, it was rather an uneafy fitua- tion to have all the provifions and other necefTaries lodged in wooden buildings, covered with thatch ot the molt combuftible kind. On the point of land that forms the weft iide of the Cove, and on an elevated fpot, a iaiall obfervatory has been raifed under the direction of Lieutenant .'Mffe mrnfurn 944 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALtti. Lieutenant Dawes, who was charged by the Board of Longitude with the care of obferving the expected comet. The longitude of this obfervatory is afcertained to be 159 d. 19 m. 30 f. E. from Greenwich, and the latitude 32 d. 52 m. 30 f. S. A fmall houfe, built by the Lieutenant Governor for himfelf, forms at prefent the corner of the parade ; the principal ftreet will be carried on at right angles with the front of this building. Inflead of thatch, they now ufe fhingles made from a tree in appe^^rance like a fir, but producing a wood not un- like the English oak. This, though more fecure than thatching, is not enough fo for ftorehoufes. For thefe^* if flate-ftone (liould not be found, tiles muft be made of the clay which has been ufed for bricks. The principal farm is fituatcd in the next cove to the eafl: of the town, and lefs than half a mile from it. When the plan was drawn it contained about nine acres laid down in corn of different kinds. Later accounts fpeak of fix acres of wheat, eight of barley, and fix of other grain, as railed on the public accounr, and in a very promifmg way. Sydney Cove lies open to the N. E. and is continued in a S. W. dirc£tion for near athoufand yards, gradual- ly decreafmg from the breadth of about one thoufand four hundred feer, till it terminates in a point, where it receives a fmail ftream of frefh water. The anchorage extends about two thoufand feet up the cove, and has foundings in general of four fatiioms near the (hore, and five, fix, or feven, nearer the middle of the channel. It isperfedly fecure in all winds; and for a confiderable way up on both fides, (hips can lie almoft clofe to the fliore : nor are there, in any part of it, rocks or fliallows to render the navigation dangerous. Such a fituation could not fail to appear defirable to a difcerning man, whole objedb it was to cftabliQi a fettlement, which he knew muft for fome time depend for fupport on the im- portation of the principal necelTaries of life. It is Tuppofed that metals of various kinds abound in the foil on which the town is placed. A convid, who had fGrn:ierly been ufed to work in the Staffordfliiid lead mines,. min they ore: whic ftock vern( tainei herea he fir, diciou people ferent greatej places fubftan proving con tint lead. ' brown, with wl I plenty, this clay befepan The c Jwhole, a( jnot ever jthe foil, t prt, is fi cea/t. A and the ( pirive ex( Wenrifai, pr to this [ellent cau '^^e orant fe impro p, the c M to any fticles of VOYAGE TO mv SOUTH WALES niines, declared very DofitivWv ,(..,. " ^" they were new clearin"!", coS,^t' '^' ground wWch ore: ,nd copper is fuppoftd to He'f ,'1"^"'"'/ ^^'^haC which were blown up In finfelnc ^,""^"1 '°'"« rocks vernor himfelf that feveral mi, >°'''""°" °f'"'e Go- tamed in the earth hrllbom?''!, 'l'" ^^"^"yco^ hereafter be worked to KrearaL, ^^ mir^c" may dicioufly difccrnins tli-f inll °/^''"*' '''"'', very i- people. (vhich m^AZilZ'S?' "="?"°" cV ,1 fcrent nature, the'difcovcrW Lf'' ;°"^ '^* ^ ^e'T Jif- greateftevil that could befaf th! Vn!"= ^''"'^ be ,he places where they dug, irrmak;; Jf ?""^ '» 'ome fubftance which at firft wasTakeni ''' '^'^ '"""'1 » P:7"g Perfeaiy refraaory in " !? J." "f'^' ^'-^'^ ^vhich continued heat, has /ince been .IT "°."S and Ions ead. The kind of ni/menr m ^"""^'"ded to be bi.ck brown, is found in ff?S n " ^'^ ^^ P^="'«s S^'an^ h with which the native' nainr?h"rl ""'' '''^ white "'v plenty. The Abbe uTeciZ't^''' % ^^' '" K^^^tr th.sclay, if cleared from Te r4T?f -f °P'"iM.<;ut befeparated, would m.keex'HIen; r^nr ' -""e'" Jafiiy The chmate at Sydnev r • P°'^'^*'^'"- whole, as equal to the fineft Vn p "* "^on/idercd, on the not eyer of Lg duration f„,'^>'-°f- , T'^e .'uin,^ I the foil, though in p-enerali; i,. ^ f « ^«=Wom •''ny f;-^, T U^ is ii.ll 4oo7a?S f i ' S„T''" '^'''^>- '« 'h'^ koaft. All the plants and flJ\f ,'^ ''^ "s^-- the r^, nd the Cape, ^hich were no^d::^ '^'•"1'?^^ -°"' B-'afil nve exceedingly ; and vece tab "f^ '" '^'^ P^«^ge ' ernlHl both the European fonanHr''. °"^^ '^''•■°'»e kto this countr)r. In the rv, ' "'^'' ^^ are p-cu- kntcauli-flowers, and melo^rv"""^ " garden arc ex. h orange trees flou ift 3°",' rJ'i'"'^ °f their fci,S k .mproving ftiH more rapiSj Tn ^'^.•''■^« ^"^ vines .'♦JIM ■Iv,. 411 i , f4^ VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. from this point, the wines of New South Wales may ^ perhaps, hereafter be fought with avidity, and become an indifpenfible part of the luxury of European tables. The rank grafs under the trees, unfortunately proved fatal to nil the flieep purchafcd by Governor Phillip, ca his i wn and on, the public account. Thofe which pri- vate individuals kept clofe to their own tents, and fed entirely there, were preferved. Hogs and poultry not only thrive but increafe very faft; black cattle will dcubt- lefs fucceed as well, and it will be eafy in future to fc- cure them from ftraying. The horfes have not met with any accident. The laft difpatches from Governor Phillip bring an account of his having fent a fmall detachment up to that ground at the upper end of Port Jackfon, which he dif- covered in one of his excurfions to be fo highly fit for cultivation. This party confided of a captain, two lieu- tenants of marines, with twenty-live non-commiffioned officers and privates : about fiity convidls were added as labourers. This fpot is very pleafant, and has been named by the Governor Rofe-hilL The flax-plant, which was feen at the firft arrival of our people, has not been found fince in any great abundance. A moft am- ple fupply of this valuable article may, however, always be obtained from Norfolk Ifland. Governor Phillip, when he judged the feeds to be ripe, orderec^ them to be colleded, but at that time very lev/ of the plants were found, and not any in the places where the greateft quantity had been feen. It is thought that the natives puii up the plant when it is in flower to mske their fifli- ing lines. On the whole, notwithftanding the difficulties and I difadvantages at firft experienced, which, though grcar,j were not more than mufl naturally be cxpe z turc h m w'' 950 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. ture of which is very curious. The twine of which thty are made, appears to be compofcd of the fibres of the flax plant, with very Jittle preparation; it is very flrong, heavy, and i'o admirably well twilled as to have the appearance of the bed whipcord. Governor Phillip mentions having had lines of their manufacture, which were made from the fur of fome animal, and others that appeared to be of cotton. The melhes of their nets are formed of large loops, very artificially inferted into each other, but without any knots. At a Imall diftance they have exactly the appearance of our common nets, but when they are clofely examined the peculiar mode in which the loops are managed is very remarkable. Some ladies v;ho have infpeded one of thefe nets lately im- ported, declare that it is formed exadly on the fame principle as the ground of point lace, except that it has only one turn of the thread inllead of two, in every loop. This net appears to have been ufed either as a landing net, or for thepurpofe of carrying the fifti when taken. They have alfo finall hoop nets, in which they catch lobfters, and fea crayfifh. Their canoes and other im- plements are very exadlly defcribed by Captain Cook. The inhabitants of New South Wales have very few ornaments, except thofe which are imprefiTed upon the fkin itlelf, or laid on in the manner of paint. The men keep their beards Ihort, it is thought by fcorching off the hair, and feveral of them at the firll: arrival of our people feemed to take great delight in being (haved. They fometimes han^ in their hair the teeth of dogs, and other animals, the claws of lobfters, and feveral fmall bones, which they fatten there by means of gum ; but fuch ornaments have never been feen upon the women. Though they have not made any attempt towards clothing themlelves, they are by no means in- fenfiblc of the cold, and appear very much to diflike the During a (hower they have been obferved to ram. cover their heads with pieces of bark, and to fhiver ex- ceedingly. Governor Phillip was convinced by thefe circumllances that clothing would be very acceptable to themj then thel plied amoi to fei Tl of oil by di delica they 1 unacc piece fmell, they i focn a Wli vet kr evidcn been o VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. 95 « them, if they could be induced to come enough among the E,ngli(h to learn the ul'e of it. He has therefore np- pHed for a fupply of frocks and jackets to diftribute among them, which areio be made long and loofc, and to ferve for either men or women. The bodies of thefe people in general fmell ftrongly of oil, and the darknefs of their colour is much increaled by dirt. But though in thefe points they (liew fo little delicacy, they are not without emotions of difguft, when they meet with ftrong eilfluvia to which their organs are unaccuftomed. One of them, afrer having touched a piece of pork, held out his finger for his companions to fmell, wifli Orong marks of dillafle. Bread and meat they ieldomrefufe to take, but generally throw it away foon after. Fi»h they always accept very eagerly. Whether they ufe any particular rites of burial is not yet known, but from the follov/ing account it ieems evident that they burn their dead. The ground having been obferved to be raifed in feveral places, like the ruder kind of graves of the comm.on people in our church yards, Governor Phillip caufed fome of thefe barrows to be opened. In one of them a jaw bone was found not quite couiumed, but in general they contained only afhcs. From the manner in which thefe afhes were dil- pofed, it appeared that the body muit have been laid at length, railed from the ground a few inches only, or juft enough to admit a iirc under it ; and having been con- fumed in this pofture, it muft then have been covered lightly over with mould. Fern is ufually fpread upon the furface, with a few flones, to keep it from being di{^ perfed by the wind. Thefe graves have not been found m very great numbers, nor ever near their huts. When the lateft accounts arrived from Port Jackfon, the natives ftilt avoided all intercourfe with our fettle- ment, wliether from difiike or from contempt is net perfedlly clear: They think perhaps that we cannot teach them any thing of iUfficient value to make them aniertds for our encroachments upon their liftiing places. They fcem. to be among themfelves perfe<^Iy honeft, and oftei^ ii H "^ 952 VOYAGE to NEW SOUTH WALES. often leave their fpcars and other implements upon the beach, in full confidence of finding them untouched. But the convidls too frequently carry them off, and ditpofe of them to veflels coming to England, though at the hazard on one fide of being profecuted for theft, and on the other for purchafmg ftolen goods. Injuries of this nature they generally revenge on fuch ftragglers as they happen to meet ; and perhaps have already learnt to diftinguilh thefe freebooters, by their blue and yellow jackets, as they very early did the foldiers by their red clothes. Beyond thefe attacks they have not yet com- mitted any open adts of hoftility, except the feizing of the firti in the inftance above related. They have not attempted to annoy the fettlers by fetting lire to the grafs, as they did when 'Captain Cook was on the coaft; nor have they, which is more important, fliewn any defire to burn the crops of corn. So abfolutely indil- penfible to the welfare of the fettlement is the preferva- tion of the grain, that an attempt of this kind mull at all events be counteradled ; but in no other cafe will any meafures be adopted, or any effort made to drive them to a greater diftance. Conciliation is the only plan in- tended to be purfued ; But.Governor Phillip, when he lad wrote, feemed to defpair of getting any of them to remain among his people, long enough for either to acquire the language of the other, except by conftraint. Hitherto he has been unwilling to take this method, but if it can be done in fuch a manner as not to create any general alarm among them, it will probably turn out to be the kindeft piece of violence that could be ufed. Whenever it ihall be pracfticable, by any means, to explain to them the friendly difpofition of Governor Phillip and his people towards them, and to make them underftand, that the men from whom they receive oc- cafional injuries, are already a difgraced clafs, and liable to fevere punifhment for fuch proceedings, they w.ill then perhaps acquire fufficient confidence in their new j countrymen to mix with them, to enrich themfclves Mfith ibme of their implements, and to learn and adopt i fome VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. 933 1 ihc But )i"e of t the id on if this J they rnt to rellow iir red t com- ing of ve not to the icoaft; m any ^ indil- ■eferva- aftatall vill any jc them plan in- ^hen he them to ither to aftraint, LCthod, o create ►ly turQ lould be means, ,overnor ^ke them ^eive oc- [nd liable :hey w.ill heir new iCinfclves fnd adopt feme of the moft ufeful and necefTary of their arts. It may, indeed, admit of a doubt whether many of the ac- commodations of civilized life, be not more than coun- terbalanced by the artificial wants to whicli they give birth: but it is undeniably certain that to teach the fliivering favage how to clothe his body, and to (helter himfelf completely from the cold and wet, and to nut into the hands of men, ready to perifh for one half of the year with hunger, the means of procuring conftant and abundant provifion, mull be to confer upon them benefits of the higheft value and importance. According to the advices from Governor Phillip, the Sirius failed for the Cape on the 2d of Odobcr, 1788, to purchafe grain, flour, and other neceflaries. Live ftock was not to be procured by this fhip, as being lefs wanted in the prefent ftate of the fe'ttlement, which had provifions in ftore for eighteen months, but not grain enough for feed, and for the fupport of cattle. The Firtiburn and Golden Grove ftorefhips iailed in November for England ; the Supply was detained in Port Jackfon for occafional ufe. At this time the officers were all in feparate houfes, and the whole detachment comfortably lodged, though the barracks were yet unfiniftied. - A short: r.- y I ' '■ ii.j i\'*i m WM IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) &^ ^/ '^ ^ 1.0 I.I 11.25 U|2£ 12.5 ^ Uii |2.2 Ufi 12.0 Ui U 1 1.6 : S Hiotographic Sciences Corporation n WiST i^AIN STREfT M -rriR.N.Y. 14SS0 (716) S72-4503 ^ ^^ ^ '9^ r\. A SHORT AC COUNT o F ANIMALS I If NEW SOUTH WALES. THE great advantage of a fcientific eye over that of the unlearned obferver, in viewing the produc- tions of nature, cannot be more ftrongly exemphfied than by the prefent ftate of the natural hiftory of Bota- ny Bay, and its vicinity. The Englifh who nrft vifited this part of the coaft, iftayed there only a week, but having among them perfons deeply verled in the ftu- dy of nature, produced an account, to which the pre- fent fettlers, after a refidence of near eleven months when the laft difpatches were dated, have been able to add but very little of importance. The properties and relations of many objeds ai'e known to the philo-l fopher at firft fight, his enquiries after novelty are con- duced with fagacity, and when he cannot defcribe by name what he difcovers, as being yet unnamed, he can at leaft refer it to its proper clafs and genus. Thej obfervation of unikilful perfons is often detailed by tri- vial refemblances, while it paifes by the marks whichl arel Vol. I ANIMALS IN NEW SOUTH WALES. 95 S E S. are really charafteriftic. Governor Phillip, in one of his letters, remarking the prodigious variety of vege- table produftions then before his eyes, laments, that among all the people with him there happens not to be one who has any tolerable knowledge of botany. This circumftance is perhaps lefs to be regretted than a deficien:y in any other branch of natural knowledge. The refearches of fome gentlemen among the firft voyagers were particularly dired- ed to botanical difcoveries, and a work whicn is now preparing, in a ftyle of uncommon accurac]^ and ele- gance by one of the rnoft illuftrious of th^m^ will pro- bably difcover that there was little left undone, even in their fhort ftay, towards completing that branch of enquiry. Of quadrupeds the whole ftock contained in the country appears to be confined to a very few fpe- Wolves have not been feen, though the tracks cies of them were fo frequently thought to be detected on this coaft by Captain Cook's party. Birds are nume- rous, but they oelong in general to claffes already known to naturalifts ; a few drawings however, and fpecimens of both, have been fent over. A fhort ac- count of them is thrown together in this chapter. Of reptiles few have been feen that are at all curious. A large Lizard, of they^m^:^^ kind, with the remarkable peculiarity of a fmall fpine or horn Handing near the extremity of the tail, is faid to be among fome fpeci- mens fent over as private prefents ; and alfo a kind of frog, whofe colour is blue ; but thefe do not in other refoefts differ materially from the ufual form of their refpedive fpecies. The ants are fully defcribed in Captain Cook's fiifl voyage. Vol. IL— N'^ so. 6E QUADRUPEDS. I . .iL' w*m* ^^^^r* ^S6 ANIMALS IN NEW SOUTH WALES. QUADRUPEDS. TJbe Kanguroo bas been particularly defcribed already. The spotted OPOSSUM. IT i^ perhaps the fame which is (lightly defcribed io Giptain Cook s firil voyage as refembling a polecat, hav- ing the back fpotted with white ; and is there faid tobe csilled by the natives QuolL The colour however is darker, being rather black than brown. The Spotted Opoffitm^ for fo it may properly be named, is in length from the nofe to the excremity of the tail about twenty-five inches, of which the tail itfelf takes tip about nine oi ten. The general colour of the animal is black, inclining Xo brown beneath; the neck and body fpotted with inegular roundifh patches of white ; the ears are pretty large, and ftand ereA, the vifage is pointed, the muzzle furniihed with long lien- der hairs ; the fore, as vvell as hind legs, from the knees downward, almoft naked, and afli-coloured ; on the fore feet are five claws, and on the hind, four and a thumb without a claw| the tail, for about an inch and an half from the root, covered with hairs of the fame length as thofe on the bodv, from thence to the end with long ones not unlike that of a fquirrel. The fpecimen from which the above account was taken, is a female^ and has fix teats placed in a circle, within the pouch. Another animal of the opofTum kind has been fent i alive to the Rev. Dr Hamilton, Redor of St Martinis, Weftminfter, and is now living in the poiTeflion of Mr I J. Hunter. It appeal's to be of the fame fort as that mentioned in Captain Cook's firil voyage, and that alfo which was founa in Adventure Bay. I The countenance of this animal much refembles tbatl of a &)X| but its manaers app]:oach more nearly to thpfa -«J !*■.' 'Cook'sVq)'ages. idy. hav- tobe /er is \A tail f takes of the .; the >atches p., the ; Oen- : knees 3X1 the . and a ^cb and fame id with lecinien [female, luch. ;n fent lartin's, , .of Mr .as that hat alfo 1. SQiriRRSI. OP S. MiTIKa OBO 3. KANGiritOO 8 8 T7M. \ o£ ilTewSouthWidea. pm> W^ // oftli inaO eatin ingi tohc it fits upon only ( Th orgn of a y . es, ei ' and pi above ed wii not fie three i the up J jedting ^markal pofedl m ap( hind U all the opoflUi the fem a held < and the is the i( of the 2 Society, purfue t This i iiderabi) IIPP*PP«*<«>fn«IH| ANIMALS IN NBfV SOU^ "WHALES. 957 bf th^fquirrel. When dtfporecLto deep, or to retnaii\ inactive, it coils itfelf up into a wtind form ; but when eating, or on the watch for any purpofe, (its up, throw- ing its tail behind it. In this poflure it ufes its fore feet to nold any thing, and to feed itfelf. When irritated, it fits ftill more ere£t on the hind legs, or throws itfelf upon its back, making a loud and har(h noife. It feeds only on vegetable fubllances. The fur is long, but clofe and thick; of a mixed brown or greyifli colour on the back, under the belly and neck, of a yellowifh white. Its length is about eighteen inch- es, excluiive of the tail, which is twelve inches long, and prehentile. The face is three inches in length, broad above and very pointed at the muzzle, which is furnifh- cd with long whifkcrs. The eyes are very large, but not fierce. On the fore feet are five claws ; on the hind, three and a thumb. The teeth are two in the front of the upper jaw, and two in the lower ; the upper pro- j jedl-ing beyond the under. In the Kanguroo it is re- ^ markable tnat there are four teeth in the upper jaw, op- ' pofed to two in the under. The tefticles are contained m a pendulous fcrotum, between the two thighs of th? hind legs, as in the common opoiTum. The afHnity of all the quadrupeds yet difcovered on this coafl to the opoiTum kind, in the circumftance of the pouch in which the female receives and fuckles her young, feems to open a field of inveftigation mod interefling to the naturalift : and the public will doubtlefs learn with pleafur^, that it is the intention of the moil able comparative anatomift of the age, to give a paper on this fubiedt to the Royal Society. It cannot, therefore, be neceitary at prefeat tQ purfue the enquiry any further. VULPINE OPOSSUM, This is not unlike the common fox in {hape,but cotw I fiderably inferior to it in reiped to fize, being, from the "" ' point 6 E « 9S^ ANIMALS IN NEW SOUTH WALLS. point of the nofe to the fettin^ on of the tail, only twen- ty-fix inches : the tail itfelf hfteen inches : the upper parts of the hody are of a grifly dolour, ariling from a mixture of dufky and white hairs, with rufous-yellow tinge ; the head and fhoulders partaking mod of this lad colour ; round the eyes blackilh : above the noftrils ten or twelve black whifkers, four inches or more in length : all the under parts of the body are of a tawny buff-co- lour, deepeft on the throat, where the bottom of the hairs are ruft-colour : the tail is of the colour of the back for about one quarter of its length, from thence to the end, black : the toes on the fore feet are five in number, the inner one placed high up : on the hind feet four toes only : with a thumb, confifting of two joints, with- out a claw, placed high up at the bafe of the inner toe. The whole foot ferving the purpofe of a hand, as ob- fervable in many of the opofliim genus. The legs are much ihorter in proportion than thofe ot the common fox : the ears about one inch and an half in length : in the upper jaw are fix cuttin^j teeth, and four grinders, with two fmall canine teeth placed at an equal diftance between them : in the under jaw two long cutting teeth, _not unlike thofe of a fquirrel, and four grinders to an^ fwer thofe in the upper jaw, but no canine teeth. NORFOLK ISLAND FLYING-SQUIRREL Size of the American grey fquirrel, and the general colour of the upper parts very nearly refembling that animal; the under parts white: from the nofe to the tall runs a ftreak of dufky black, and another fprings on each fide of the head behind the noftrils, paffingover the eyes and finifliing behind them z ears not rifing from the head : on each fide of the body is a broad flap or iflembrane, as in other flying fquirrels, which is united to both the fore and hind legs, as ufual in many of this I divifion: ANIMALS IN NEW SOUTH WALES. 959 n- )er 1 a DW laft ten th: co- ihe sack ► the \ber, four vith- r toe. J ob- rs are amon h: in nders, iftance teeth, o an^ llivifion : this membrane is black, fringed on the outer edge with white : the tail for two thirds of the length, is of an elegant aih colour, paler than the body, from thence to the end dufky black : the toes on the fore legs are five in number ; thofe of the hinder uncertain, as the legs behind were wanting : length from head to rump nine inches ; the tail is ten inches. Irel. reneral ig that to the prings gover gfrom flaijor united! of this vifion: BIRDS. BLUE BELLIED PARROT. Defcribed thus by Mr Latham. " THE length of this beautiful parrot is fifteen inches. The bill is reddifti : orbits black : head and throat dark blue, with a mixture of lighter blue feathers : back part of the head green ; towards the throat yellow green : back and wings green : prime quills dufky, barred with yellow : breau red, mixed with yellow ; belly of a fine blue : thighs green and yellow : tail cuneiform ; the two middle feathers green ; the others the fame, but bright yellow on the outer edges : legs dufky. " Inhabits Botany Bay in New Holland." Latham's Synopfis, vol. i. p. 213. To this account little need be added, except that in ourprefent fpecimens the parts there faid to be blue are rather a bright lilac : the bill is a deep orange ; and there are red fpots on the back between the wings, and a few near the vent feathers. TABUAN pdo ANIMALS IN NEW SOUTH WALES. TABUAN PARROT. This bird has been feen by Mr Latham, and was by him referred to this fpecies ; of which however it Teems a very remarkable variety : The prevalent colour 6( the head, neck and bread, being, initead of a deep crimfon or purpliih red, as in his delcription and plate, as well as m a fine fpecimen now in his own collodion, a very bright fcarlet : the blue marks acrofs the lower part of the neck appears the fame ; bur the blue feathers in the wings are entirely wanting ; and the bill is not black. Length twenty-four inches: bill brown, the upper mandible tinged with red: the head, neck, and all the under parts of the body a bright fcarlet : the back and wings a fine green. On the lower part of the neck, be- tween that and the back, a crefcent of blue: the tail long and cuneiform, mod of its feathers deep blue : the legs a(h coloured : on the upper part of the wings a narrow line of lighter green. PENNANTIAN PARROT. Size of the fcarlet lory, length fixteen inches : the bill of a blueiOi horn colour ; the general colour of the plu- mage fcarlet ; the bafe of the under mandible and the chin covered with rich blue feathers: the back black, the feathers edged with crimfon : wings blue, down the middle mMch paler than the reft: the quills and tail black, the feathers edged outwardly with blue, and three of the outer tail feathers, from the middle to the end, of a pale hoary blue : the tail is wedge fhaped, the middle feathers eight inches in length ; the outermoft, or fhorl- cft, only four: the bottom of the thighs blue, legs dufky, claws black. This beautiful bird is not unfrequent ahoui Port Jack- ANIMALS IN NEW 30UTH WALES. 961 foh^ and feems to correrpond greatly with the Pennant fan Farroty defcribed by Mr Latham in the fupplcmcnt 10 his General Synopfts of birds ^ p. 61. differing in fo few par- ticulars, as to make us fuppofe it to differ only in fcx from that fpecies. i PACIFIC PARO QJJ E T. Mr Latham's defcription is this : " Length twelve inches, bill of a filvery blue ; end black : in fome, the forehead and half the crown ; in others, the forehead only, of a deep crimfon : behind each eye a fpot of the fame colour : on each fide of the vent a patch of the fame : the plumage in general of a dark green, paleft on the under parts : the tail is cunei* form; the two middle feathers are five inches and an half in length ; the outer ones two inches and an half ; up- per parts of it the lame green with the body ; beneath a(h colour : the outer edge of the wings, as far as the middle of the quills, deep blue ; the end of the quills dufky: legs brown: claws black.'* Latham's Synopfis, vol, i. p. 252. The variety here obferved has a brown bill, tinged with red at the end, and a cap of azure blue at the back of the head, interperfed with a few fmall feathers of a yellowifh green ; the top of the wings is of a yellow hue, and there are no blue feathers in the wings. m The sacred KING's FISHER. The following defcription is extraded from Mr La- tham's Synopfis of Birds, vol. ii. p. 623. " This ^2 ANIMALS m NEW SOUTH WALES. " This in fize is rather lefs than a blackbird : the bill is black; the lower mandible yellowilh at the bafe: head, back, wings, and tail, blue tinged with green : the under parts of the body white, extending round the middle of the neck like a collar : legs blackiQi." To which account we may add, that the bill is very flrong at the bale, and (Irong at the point ; that the fea- thers immediately above the bill are tinged with yellow ; and that the toes, as in moil of this fpecies, are tnree be- fore and one behind. SUPERB WARBLER, Male. " The length of this beautiful fpecies is five inches and a half: the bill black: the feathers of the head are long, and (land ere£t like a full creft ; from the fore- head to the crown they are of a bright blue ; from thence to the nape, black like velvet : through the eyes from the bill, a line of black ; beneath the eye fprings a tuft of the fame blue feathers ; beneath thefe and on the chin, it is of a deep blue almod black, and feeling like velvet : on the ears is another patch of blue, and acrofs the back part of the head a band of the fame, (in fome fpecimens, the patches of blue under the eye and on the ear unite together, and join with the band at the nape) the whole giving the head a greater appearance of bulk than is natural : the hind part of the neck, and upper parts of the body and tail, deep blue black ; the under, pure white: wings, dulky ; Ihafts of the quills chefnut : the tail, two inches and a quarter long, and cuneiform; the two outer feathers very fhort: legs dufky browtt : claws black." Latham's Synopfis, vol. iv. p. 501. The VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. 9<>3 bill afe: :en: lund very ;fea- low; ebe- Tlie difpofition of the blue is found to differ in mod of the fpeciniwns. In the prefent variety, the whole head is enveloped in blue, which terminates in an irre- gularly waving linc» a id is continued below the eye in a broad band, edged in the fame manner, and running almod to a point, as low as the bottom of the neck on each fuie ; but there is no band continued round the neck, which, both above and below, is of the deep blue like velvet, mentioned by Mr Latham* Some feathers of a very bright orange lie immediately under that blue, and above the wings. ^1 inches :ad are e fore- ; from le eyes [prings and on feeling Lie, and me, (in jye and d at the earancc ck, and ck; the le quills ng, and rt: legs SUPERB WARBLER, Female* When Mr Latham's Synopfis was publiflied, the fe- male of this fpecies was entirely unknown ; and it was conjedtured by that author that the difpofition of the blue might poffibly mark tlie fexes. The female is now difcovered to be entirely deftitute of all the fine blue colours, both pale and dark, by which the male is adorned, except that there is a very narrow circle of azure round each eye, apparently on the ikin only : all the upper feathers confift of (hades of brown, and the whole throat and belly is pure white. Except from the (hape and fize, this bird would not be fufpe£led at firtt fight to belong to the fame fpecies as the male : the epithet of fuperb applies very ill to the female. CASPIAN TERN. Mr Lathain*8 defcription is as follows : •' Length nineteen or twenty inches: bill three in- ches, flout and of a pale yellow : noftrils pervious : the crown of the head black ; the feathers longifti, and forming a kind of penfile creft at the nape ; the reft of the head, neck, and under parts of the body, white-: Vol. II.-^N<> so. 6F back I 964 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. back ami wings pale cinereous grey : quills grey, with the ends dufky ; the inner webs, halt way from the bafe, white : tail grey, forked : the end half of the other feathers white ; the laft is exceeded by the firft an inch : legs black. Suppofed to inhabit China ; feen alfo, or very fimilar, from the Friendly Ifles ; alfo found at Ha- pacc, cne of the Sandwich Iflands." NORFOLK ISLAND PETREL. Length fixteen inches, bill one inch and a half long ; black, and very hooked at the tip : the head as far as the eyes, the chin and throat, waved, brown and dufky white : the reft of the body on the upper parts of a footy brown, the under of a deep aih colour ; the in- ner part of the quills, efpecially near the bafe, very pale, nearly white, and the wings, when clofed, exceed the tail by about an inch : the tail is much rounded in fhape, and confifts of twelve feathers, of the fame co- lour as the upper parts of the body : the legs are pale yellow, the outer toe black the whole length, the mid- dle one halfway from the tip, the webs alio correfpond, the outer one being black, except juft at the bafe ; and the inner one black for about one third from the end : the claws black ; the fpur, which ferves in place of a back toe, is alfo black. This inhabits Norfolk Ifland, and burrow^s in the fand like a rabbit, lying hid in the holes throughout the day, and coming out of evenings in queft of food. This bird appears to differ fo very little from the dark grey Petrel of Cook's Voyage, that it is not improbable it may prove to be the fame fpecies. This is oeicribed in the General Synopfis of Birds^ vol. vi. p. 399, under the name of Grey Petrel; as alfo another fpecies, in p. 400. by the name of VVhtte-breaJied Petrel^ differing on- ly in the breaft from our fpecimen* BRONZE-. VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES, 00; BRONZE-WINGED PIGEON. Size of a large dove-hoiife pigeon : general colour cf the plumage a(h-coloured, brown on tiie upper parts, the feathers margined with pale rufous ; the under parts pale a(h-colour, with very pale margins : the wing coverts are much the fame colour as the back, but the greater ones, or lower feries, have each of them a large oval fpot of bronze on the outer webs, near the ends, forming together, when the wings are doled, two bars of the moft brilliant and beautiful bronze, changing in- to red, copper, and green, in different reflediions of light : feveral of the feathers alfo among the other co- verts hayfe the fame fpots on them, but are irregularly- placed : the quills are brown, with the inner webs, from the middle to the bafe, pale rufous ; as are the tides of the body and all the under wing coverts : the tail con- fifts of fixteen feathers ; the two middle ones are brown, the others pale lead, or dove colour, with a bar of black near the tip : the bill is of a dull red : the forehead very pale, nearly white, paffing a little way under the eye : the chin and throat pale grey : the legs are red. This bird inhabits Norfolk Ifland ; and is clearly a pon-defcript fpecies. WHITE-FRONTED HERON. This is little more than half the fize of the common Heron : len,3th 28 inches: the general colour plumage is bluiflti a(h, inclining to lead colour: top of the head black, and a trifle crefted ; the forehead, fides of the head, chin, and throat white, palling downwards, and finifhing in a point about the middle of the neck before : on the lower part of the neck the feathers are long and loofe, and of a pale rufous cinnamon colour ; all the other parts of ^ F 3 the i m^m 966 VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. the body alfo incline to this laft colour, but are much paler : the quills and tail are dark lead colour, nearly black : on the back the feathers are long and narrow, and hang part of the way on the tail : the bill is four inches long, and black ; but the bafe half of the under mandible is yellowi(h : the legs are formed as in other herons, of a yellowifh brown colour, and the claws are black. This bird was fent from Port Jackfon in New Hol- land, and as it has not been noticed by any author, we confider it as a new fpecies. WATTLED BEE-EATER. The fize of this bird is nearly that of a cuckow : length fourteen inches and a half: the bill one inch long, and of nearly the fame fliape and fize as in the Poe Bird ; the colour black ; the general colour of the plumage is brown, paleft on the under parts ; mod of the feathers are pointed in fhape, and have a ftreak of white down the middle ; the fore part of the head, as far as the eyes, is fmooth, but the rert of the head appears full, the fea- thers being longer : . from the gape of the bill a broad ftreak of fil very white paiTes under the eye, aad beneath this, on each fide of the throat, hangs a pendulous wat- tle, about half an inch in length, and of an orange colour: the wings, when clofed, reach about one third on the tail, which is about half the length of the bird, and cu- i^eiform in iliape : both the quills and tail feathers are of a darker brown than the reft of the bird, and have the tips white : the middle of the belly is yellow : the legs are of a pale brown, the hind toe very ftout, and the outer toe connected to the middle one as far as the firft joint. The above inhabits New Holland ; it was received from Port Jackfon, and is no doubt a non-defcript Species. ^ ..orr^ *^ PSIT- VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. 967 luch :arly row, four nder 3ther rsare Hol- r, we length r, and rBird; nage is bathers I down le eyes, le fea- broad leneath IS wat- :olour: Ion the Ind cu- lers are ive the le legs Ind the as the EceWed efcript PSITTACEOUS HOP.NBILL, The bird is about the fize of a crow : the total length two feet three inches : the bill is large, flout at the bafe, much curved at the point, and channelled on the (ides ; the colour pale brown, inclining to yellow near the end : the noftrils are quite at the bafe, and are furrounded with a red fkin, as the eye alfo, on the upper part : the head, neck, and under parts of the body are pale blue-grey; the upper parts of the body, wings, and tail, afti colour; and mod of the feathers are tipt with dufky black, forming bars of that colour acrofs the wings ; the wings, when clofed, reach to near three quarters^ of the length of the tail : the tall itfelf is long, and cuneiform, the two middle feathers meafuring eleven inches, and the outer one on each lide little more than feven ; a bar of black crofTes the whole near the end, and the tips of all the feathers are white : the legs are fhort and fcaly, a!id the toes placed two forwards, arid two backwards, as ia thofe of the toucan or parrot genus : the colour of legs and claws black. This bird was killed at Port Jackfon, and we believe it to be hitherto non-defcript. Such is the account of the birds of which drawings or fpecimens have been obtained from Port Jackfon or from Norfolk If] and. Wild ducks, teal, quuls, and other common fpieces are numerous in both places, and the variety, as well as number of the fmall birds iscon- fiderable. Birds of the CafTowary or Emu kind have very frequently been feen ; but they are fo fhy, an J run fo fwiftl/, that only one has yet been killed. That bird was (hot near the camp, while Governor Phillip was abfent on his firft expedition to Broken Bay, and was thought by him to differ materially both from the ollrich and calTowary. 'K III SIT- g6S VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. Supplemental Account of Animals. BIRDS BANKIAN COCKATOO. THIS is about the fize of the great white cockatoo ; the length twenty-two inches. The bill \$> exceedingly lliorr, and of a pale lead-colour. The head feathers are pretty long, fo as to enable the bird to ere'= «^°"Wers. and J^mnerquili^.andtKJKed'ih?"^'-''"'-^'^^ aulky fnngcd outwardly with xtiu " '"f Skater quills ly wedged n (ha ne the Wl, ^ '°,'' • 'he tail is great- wards the end dJblZ. ftj^ fn^l' ^'^' '''^''"S Thisfpecies inhabits NewSoutl^wf ' ""-^^n- heveitto be hitherto non-dIfcr?t ''' ""^ ""^ ^e- CRESTED GOAT-SUCKER. rpeIJS!mit'"S;^!,^^"- than our European The general colour of he lm»'''' '"1'' ''^'^ i" ^S dark-brown, mottled and eftTwi,V''lJ'''P^^P"''^ bars: the quills are plain browi, 0!"fi "''""'? ^^^^^ifl* outf- ',„es marked with dufkv wh^^ r ", °'' '''^ °f 'he webs : the tail is rounded nfl^n ^"1' °" ^''^ "Wer twelve narrow bars of a duflcvwhlf^' ^"'', '"'"'^^ed with as »re the various whitHh SkTon th^"'"'' ^^"^ blade, under parts of the body " " mo ° „'^7PP.'.'' P^"-'' 5 the fore part of the neck and br^ift ar^' l^fs whu.; f,,,, ^^^ .rousduflcybars: thebiliisbS b-^T "^ """'«- barbeJ *l 91^ VOYAGE TO NEW SOtTTH WALES. barbed on their fides, and ftanding peifedly upright as a creft, giving the bird a fmgular appearance : the legs are weak, longer than in moil of the tribe, and of a pale yellow colour j claws brown* NEW-HOLLAND CASSOWARY. This is a fpecies differing in many particulars from that generally known, and is a much larger bird, (land- ing higher on its legs, and having the neck longer than in the common oiiC. Total length feven feet two inches. The bill is not greatly different from that of the com- mon Caffowary : but the horny appendage, or helmet on the top of the head, in this fpecies is totally want- ing : the whole of the head and neck is alfo covered with feathers, except the throat and fore part of the neck about half way, which are not fo wcil feathered as the reft ; whereas in the common Caffowary, the head and neck are bare and carunculated as in the turkey* The plumage in general confifts of a mixture of brown and grey, and the feathers are fomewhat curled or bent at the ends in the natural ftate : the wings are fo very fhort as to be totally ufelefs for flight, and indeed, are fcarcely to be diftinguiOied from the reft of the plumage, were it not for their ftanding out a little. The long fpines which are Teen in the wings of the common fort, are in this not obfervable, — nor is there any appearance of a tail. The legs are ftout, formed much as in the Ga- ieated Caffowaay, with the addition of their being jag- ged or fa wed the whole of their length at the back part. This bird is not uncommon in New Holland, as leve- ral of them have been i^tn about Botany Bay, and other iparts. The one from which this defcription is taken, was fliot within two miles of the fetderaent at Sydney Cove. The Ikin being fent over to England in fpirits, has been put into attitude, and is now the property of Sir Jofeph as ale ANIMALS IN NEW SOUTH WALES. 971 tofeph Banks, to whom it was prefentedby Lord Syd- ney. Although this bird cannot fly, it runs (o fwiftly, that a greyhound can fcarcely overtake it. The flefh is faid to be in tafte not unlike bed'. rom ind- than :bes. :om- ilmet vant- vered J neck as the id and WHITE G A L L I N U L E. This beautiful bird greatly refembles the purple Galll- nule in fhape and make, but is much fuperior in fize, ,being as large as a dunghill fowL The length from the end of the bill to that of the claws is two feet three in- ches: the bill is very flout, and the colour of it, the whole of the top of the head, and the irides red; the fides of the head round the eyes are reddifti, very thinly fprinkled with white feathers ; the whole of the plumage without exception is wliite. The legs the colour of the bill. This fpecies is pretty common on Lord Howe's Iflaud, Norfolk Ifland, and other places, and is a very tame fpe- cies. The other fex, fuppofed to be the male, is laid io have fome blue on the wings. - , DOG OF NEW SOUTH WALES. The height of this fpecies, {landing erecil, is rather lefs than two feet : the length two feet and a half. The head is formed much like that of a fox, the ears (hort and ered, with whifkers from one to two inches in length on the muzzle. The general colour of the upper part is pale brown, growing lighter towards the belly : the hind part of the fore legs, and the fore part of the hinder ones white, as are the feet of both : the tail is of a moderate length,- feme what bulhy, but in a Vol.IL--N<^So. 6G''*^' lefs 972 ANIMALS IN NEW SOUTH WALES. lefs degree than that of the fox: the teeth are much the fame as is ufual in the genus. This fpecies inhabits New South Wales. TTie fpeci- men from which this defcription was drawn (a female) is now alive in the pofleflion of the Marchionefs of Sa- lifbury, at Hatfield-Houfe, and was fent over as a pre- fent to Mr Nepean, from Governor Phillip. It has much of the* manners of the dog, but is of a very fa- vage nature, and not likely to change in this particular. It laps like other dogs, but neither barks nor growls if Texed or teazed ; inffead of which, it erefts the hairs of the whole body like briftles, and feems furious : it is very eager after its prey, and is fond of rabbits or chic- kens, raw, but will not touch dreflbd meat. From its fiercenefs and agility it has greatly the advantage of other animals much fuperior m fize ; for a very fine French fox-dog being put to it, in a moment it feized him by the loins, and would have foon put an end to his exiftcnce had not help been at hand. With the ut- mod eafe it is able to leap over the back of an afs, and was very near worrying one to death, having faftened on it, fo that the creature was not able to difengage himfelf without afliftance ; it has been alfo known to run down both deer and fheep. ' A fecond of thefe is in the poffeffion of Mr Lafcelles, of which we have received much the fame account in refpedit to its ferocity; from whence it is fcarcely to be expeded that this elegant animal will ever become familiar. SPOTTED MARTIN. The fpecies is about the fize of a large pole-cat, and meafures from the tip of the nofe to the fetting on of the tail eighteen inches ; the tail itfelf being nearly the feme length. The vifage is pointed in fliape, and the whole jtu...^. v.. ■-.■^t o^ im mm ' ANIMALS IN NEW SOUTH WALES. 973 whole make of the animal does not ill refemble that of the Fojfane, The general colour of the fur is black, marked all over with irregular blotches of white, the tail not excepted, which has an elegant appearance, and tapers gradually to a point. The fitu'ition of the teeth and jaws is much the fame as in the refl of the genus. Inhabits the neighbourhood of Port Jackfon. KANGUROO RAT. The upper jaw of this fpecies has two cutting teeth in front, with three others on each fide of them, and at a diftance one falfe grinder, (harp at the edge, and chan- nelled, or fluted, on the fides, and clofe to thefe, two true grinders : in the lower jaw are two long cutting teeth, formed likethofe of the fquirrel, with three grincC ers, correfponding with thofe in the upper jaw. The general (hape of the body is not widely different from that of the Kanguroo^ both in refpe£t to the fhortnefs of the fore legs and the peculiar conftrudion of the hind ones ; but the vifage being ftrongly fimilar to that of the rat, and the colour of the whole not ill refembling that animal, it has obtained the name jf the Kanguroo Rat This is an inhabitant of New Holland, and two of the fpecies are now to be feen alive at the curious exhibition of animals over Exeter Exchange. One of thefe, being a female, has brought forth young. The laced LIZARD. This moil elegant fpecies is in length, from the nofe to the end of the tail, about forty inches^: iiith'e mouth 6 G 2 are 974 ANIMALS IN NEW SOUTH WALES. are a. few weak teeth, though rather (harp, at about a quarter of an inch diftance one from another: the tongue is long and forked : the general fhape is {lender ; and the ground colour of the (kin, on the upper parts, a brownifli or bluifli black, whiinfically marked with golden yellow ; in fome parts this colour is beautifully mottled or freckled, like fome kinds of lace- work ; in others, ftriped in various diredions, particularly on the legs, which feem as if flriped acrofs with black and white: the under parts are yellow, crofled with fmgle bars of black on the chin and throat, and double clouded ones on the belly : the toes are live in number on each foot, barred acrofs with black and yellow, as the legs, and each fiirnifhed with a crooked black claw ; the tail meafures more in length than the whole of the body ; towards the bafe, clouded and marked as the reft; but the further half batided with black and yellow, each band three in-^ ches broad, the end running to a very (harp point. This beautiful Lizard is not uncommon at Port Jack- fon, where it is reputed a harmlefs fpecies. Individuals vary much one from another, in refpeft to the length of the tail, as alfo in the colour of the markings ; fome hav- ing thofe parts marked with a pure filvery white, which in the above defcribed are yellow, BAG-THROATED BALISTES. The fize of this fi(h is uncertain. It agrees in many things with others of the genus, and does not greatly differ from one figured in Willughby's Icthyuloj^ia, Tab. I. 22. but has the body longer in proportion. The eredl horn or fpine is placed over, and a littUe behind the eyes, as in Willughby's figure, attended with two fliorter ones dire&ly behind the firft : the long fpine is quite flraight, fharp at the point, and deeply fawed on the back part. Another fingularity prefents itfelf in tbi$ ANIMALS IN NEW SOUTH WALES. 975 this fpeclcn, "^wch is, a deep pouch-like appendage -be- neath the tl)isilt,in fhape not unlike what is called Hip- pocrates's flccve, or rather a jelly bag. This fifh is found pretty ccmmcnly on the coaft of New South Wales, and was called the Old Wife, hav- ing much refemblance in many things to the fpecies lb named. When fl^inned, it was thought pretty good eating. A FISH OF NEW SOUTH WALES. Of this fi(h it can only be faid, that the ground colotir is much the fame as that of our mackarel, marked with feveral round, blue and white fpots ; and. that it is de- fcribed from a drawing, by Daniel Butler, fent from New South Wales, where it is in great plenty, and is thought to tafte much like a dolphin. As to the genus, it is difficult to fay with certainly to which it belongs, as it is deficient in the charadberiuics of thofe generally knov/n ; it is therefore left to the reader to fettle thia matter according to his own opinion. two line is :d on e1f in thi$ PORT JACKSON SHARK. The length of the fpecimen from which the drawing was taken, is two feet ; and it is about five inches and an half over at the broadeft part, from thence tapering to the tail ; the fkin is rough, and the colour, in general, brown, paleft on the under parts : over the eye on each fide is a prominence, or long ridge, of about three inches ; under the middle of which the eyes are placed : the teeth are very numerous, there being at leaft ten or eleven rows ; the forward teeth are fmall and (harp, but as they are placed more backward, they become more blunt and larger, and feveral rows are quite fiat at top, forming a kind of bony palate, fomewhat like that of the Wolf- fia. 7'^ AIMALS IN NEW SOUTH WALES. fifh ; differinf^, however, in (liapc, being more inclined to iquare than round, Xvhich they are in that fi(h : the under jiw is furiiiflied much in the fame manner as the upper : the breathing holes are hve in number, as is ufual in the genus : on the back are two fins, and before each ftands a ftrong fpine, much as in the Prickly Hound, or Dog-fi{h : it has alfo two perioral, and two ventral fins; but befides thefe,there is lifcewife an anal fin, placed at a middle dittance between the lafl. and the tail : the tail itfelf, is as it were divided, the upper part much longer than the under. At firft fight, the above might be taken for the Prickly ]Hound-fi(h, or Squalus Spinax of Linnaeus, of which a good figure may be feen in Willughbys IcthyoL Tab. B. 5. f, I. but it differs firft, in having the prominent ridge over the eyes, of a great length ; fecondly, in the for- mation of the teeth ; thirdly, in having an anal fin, of which the Prickly Hound is deftitute ; all thefe circum- ftances concur to prove it a new fpecies. This was taken at Port lackfon, but to what fize it may ufually arrive cannot be determined ; perhaps not to a great one, as the teeth appear very complete. Some fharks, however, of an enormous fize have been feen and caught thereabouts, though of what fort cannot here be determined. n FINIS. . • Direftions to the Binder, .FOR PLACING THE PLATES IN COOK'S VOYAGES. V O L U M I. HEAD of Captain Cook, to face the Title A General Chart to Capt. Cook's Three Voyages A Tupapow in Otaheite — — — A View of Huaheine — — , — — A Dance in Otaheite <— — . — — A View of a l^erforated Rock — — — Infide of a Hippah in New Zealand — — A New Zealand Chief and a Prieft — — — A Man and Woman of Van Diemen's Land A Young Woman of Otaheite dancing, &c. — A Man and Woman of the Sandwich Illands — Page, 27 224 233 28 £ 301 723 827 Z66 Volume II. A Viewof Chriftmas Harbour, in Kerguellen's Land A Native of Otaheite and a New Zealand Warrior, defying their Enemies — — — A Woman of Eaoo, and a Man of Man — The Reception of Captain vwook in Ilapaee — A Boxing Match in Hapaee — — — A Night Dance by Women in Hapaee — — A Night Dance by Men in Hapaee — — A Fiatooka, or Morai, in Tongataboo — — Poulaho, King of the Friendly Iflands, drinkinis; Kava The Natche, a Ceremony in honour of the King's Son in Tongataboo — — — . A human Sacrifice in a Morai in Otaheite — The Bod) of Tee, a Chief, aspreferved after Deatli in Otaheite 26 69 74 II L 117 119 122 123 162 165 257 A ^' IF" J ,.!' -VlliiPIPJIiiU iP DIRECTIONS TO T BINDER. m A Mordi in Atooi —- — An OflTerlng before Capt. Cook in the Sandwich Iflands The Infide of a Houfe in tlie Morai in Atooi — An Inland View in Atooi — - — A Canoe of the Sandwich Iflands^ the Rowers maiked The Sea Otter — • — — A Man and Woman of Nootka Sound . — — A Man of the Sandwich Iflands in a Ma(k, &c. — A View of the Habitations in Nootka Sound — — . Tlie Infide of a Houfe in Nootka Sound . — A View of Snug Corner Cove in Prince William's Sound Man and Woman 6f Prince W'.Ilia»r^'s Sound — The Tfchutlki and their Habitations — — » Sea Horfes of IcyCape — — . — - Inhabitants of Norton Sound and their Habitations — • A Man and Woman of Oonalafhka — — Natives of Oonalafhka, and their Habitations ^ ■ Iftfide, of a Houfe in Oonalafhka — — — A View of the Harbour of Karafcakooa, in Owhyhee IPSJrrcbboo, King of Owhyhee, bringing Prefents to Capt. Cook — — — * .— Shit Death of Captain James Cook, F. R. S. at Owhyihee, .1779 '— — _, — Iniide of a Winter Habitation in Kamtfchatka -— A Man of Kamtfchatka travelling in Winter ~ ' ' — A View at Bolcheretzkoi, in Kamtfchatka • — -*- . White Bear — — — ' — A Man and Woman of Kamtfchatka — — Animals in New Soi>th«»Wales — ^ — — Pagf, 361 362 3<53 379 392 427 430 434 440 441 468 472 534 54^"* I 5651 583 • s^sl 61J 622I 6461 707 708 7.M 725 7?o 9SM "' * I I I " > ii iiii ifi ii * " iiiiiiii ER. Is nd Capt. jfihce. Page, 361 362 3<^3 379 392 427 430 434 440 441 468 472 534 54v^ 583 S^S 6ii 622I 646I 7071 708 7.M 725 7.?o 95«i