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 TlIF LORHSTS OF ()l'i:i5r:C 
 
 AM» riiK 
 
 MAkI riMI< I'ROVINCL'S, 
 
 VrA TIIK 
 
 INTERCOL ON I A L RA IL fl^A V. 
 
 Pl'HLISHF. n HV 
 
 A. H. DIXON 
 
 TOKOXrC, OXT. 
 
DEPARTMENT OF RAILWAYS, CANADA, 
 
 Hon. Sir Charles Tupper. C. B.. K. C. M. G., 
 
 Mi»L/i> of Kitihoays, Ottawa. 
 
 C. Sci-r REI BER. C. E.. 
 
 Chief Eugincci and Cn-iu-r.i' Miiii<i::ii- G nn-nimiit Ktiih,.'ays, Ottawa. 
 
 ►I- - 
 
 INTERCOLONIAL RAILV/AY OF CANADA, 
 
 1). I'orTlXtiKR, '■liici" SiiiiLTiiiteii>kiil, . . .Mo.scru.\, .S. J! 
 
 V. S. AKCHIHAI I), Cliicf ]Mif;iiicvr. . \ . '• " 
 
 i;. .V. WlirrXI-lS. Mcilianicnl SuiHTiiilcmlLTii, 
 
 TIIOS Wll.l.l \MS. 'I'n'ri.surci- aii.l Cliii'l Accounuiit, . . .... 
 
 <;i'(i. 'lANLiiR, (iLiicul I ici;^!)! Aj^cnt, ... 
 
 A. lU'SHN', '.It-ueral T'as.ii:iigcr .\t;cut, . ...... 
 
 'I. \. ( ' >i •In.I-.I. I'ii:iu'i.il Sinn-kccpcr, . .... . " 
 
 'riiiiii>t uii.l Kouiul Trip KxciirMnn Tickt-t- to ihc .rleasurL-. Su.i linll.iiiy ini.l li.^liiii,^ Kv-. .its of ilu' 
 lnlfrcnloni.il, ami lo St. J..lin, X. 15., 1 l,»lifa\, X. S.. ami all <>lhci- i.niiiu on lli.U niiluay. au.l t.. I'liucc 
 E'lu.ird Island :in(l the I^laml of Capv lirelon, arc for mIi- al the n^'cncies '^f 
 
 'I'lins COOK. \- SOXS, 2i'I liroailway, .Now York. 
 
 \\ M. JI.NRIXS. 2^7 r.ro.i.luay, Xiw.V.uk. 
 
 1.1 \E.\ .M.DIX, JO~ ISrcadw.u, Xt-w-Vork. 
 
 T. ;•:. liOXD, 2()C \V.a.-,!iini;ton Street, liuMon 
 
 R. (" \\. McC'l AK'., Sparks Street, Ottawa. 
 
 K. .\RXiU.I). ('orncr Yoii,<;e ami Kim; Slreel.s. 'rMriint^i. 
 
 R. II. .M' " hiK, Wisiern J"reii;!it aii'i I'as^enger .Agent. 93 Rossin Iloiu^e Block, Toronlu. 
 
 W !). 0'IlRir,.X. .St. Jauies Street, Montreal. 
 
 (;. W. ROHIXS(.)X, Eastern Frei[:l!l ami I'a.'oenj^er .\-cm. l.;i') St. jame?. Street, .MunUeai. 
 
 T. I). SlIll'M-AX, Sou.s l.efort Street. Lower Town, anl ,52 .'^t. l.oui- Street, Upper Town, (Jiui ec 
 
 C.EO. I'lllRI'S, ()7 IViMce Willi.tni .Street, St. Jo'nn, X. H. 
 
 C. r t.'.VKTl'.N. Interii.iliona! Hotel Unililini;, Hollis Street. Ilalifa.x-. X. S. 
 AXI) Al rRlNril'Al, R.MLWAV TIClvKT ul'TlCES. 
 
N. li. 
 
 
A 1>R()SCHNII!.\[ P,()\V. 
 
 Hi 
 
 ''PI f AT which we call a preface by any other name nii-^dit tell as niucli. To l)e 
 candid at the outset, this is really a preface ; but the glitlerint,' l)ait of ,iimUu r 
 title has been affixed, in order to induce the public to read it. 
 
 A book intended for the information of tourists is usuallv either a mass nf 
 dry facts and fiLnues, or a C(<llcction of elaborate lies In the tolluuiii"- na'^es an 
 effort has been made to fuul a medumi between tlie two, and to avoid alike the 
 monoton\'i)f the statistical bore and the mentlacitv- of the colonization a-i-ent. J'his 
 book is not intended for a cyclopedia or a i;azetteer. The historian ami statis- 
 tician were abroad when the work was begun, and uj) to the hour of going to 
 I)ress had not retm-neti. Their works are for sale by the leading publishers, and 
 are more reliable than cUiy e{)itome can possibly be. No family should be with- 
 out them, but the travellei can suit his own taste. 
 
 \Miat the writer has aimed at is a brief account of the country traver^ixl b}- 
 the Intercolonial Railway, and of some of the chief places of interest along the 
 'inc. The design is to give the pleasure-seeker, the fisherman and. the .sportsman 
 an idea of the places where their respective wants may be supplied. This work 
 is necessarily a condensation of material which would suffice to fill a volume; 
 ami as there has been barely space enough to tell the truth, the statements ma\- 
 be accepted as tolerabh- correct. For a like reason no attemjjt lias been made to 
 bec(mie enthusiastic, and the scenes described will usually be found to more tli.in 
 realize the accounts of their \arious attractions. 
 
 As cornparati\ ely few people ever read a preface, the foregoing remarks would 
 be omitted were it not that tliero are some who in\'ariably da read a [)reface, and 
 who would be anno)-ed if a book did not contain one. If this be found lacking 
 m the elements which a preface luight to j)osse.ss, a more lengthv-, '^olemn and 
 conventional one will be prefi.xed to the luxt edition. 
 
 W. KILBV REYNOL.DS. 
 
1 N DEX. 
 
 H 
 
 A riosccnium How. . , . 
 Something ^liovii Excursions, 
 
 <Jllfl)CC, 
 
 Levis, and Be)onil, . 
 Kivicrc (h Loup, . 
 I'Virests anil Streams, . 
 Canoe anil Pacl.llo, 
 
 Cacouna, 
 
 r fs Habitants de la ^uuvclle-l•'i 
 
 Vjk'. Ik'autiful liici . , 
 
 Kinuniski, , . 
 
 Litile Metis, 
 
 Metapcdjac Lake and Valley 
 
 Tin- Shrioting and I'isliin^', 
 
 Caniphellti^n, . 
 
 Shooting, 
 
 The Kestigouche. . 
 
 IXilhou.sie, 
 
 La R.iie <!l's Chaleurs. 
 
 iiatlnirst. ... 
 
 A l-'nu: Cininiry tor S])rin. 
 
 Miraniiciii, 
 
 Till: ihcal Fire.* 
 
 Moncton, . . 
 Shediac, 
 
 Amherst, 
 
 IMrrsboro, 
 
 Truro 
 
 Down amoni,' the ConI .Minos. 
 Ne« Cdastjiiw. 
 I'ictou, \ . 
 
 Anno Muiimn 
 
 Antigonisli 
 
 <";tpo nrcton, 
 
 Truro to Halifa.x. . . 
 
 H.difa.s, 
 
 Outside of Halifax, 
 
 AniKipolis Royal 
 
 I'riiiLt: Fdwai-d Islanrl, 
 >roiicton to St. John, 
 
 Sii:;.iex, 
 
 Saint John, 
 
 Kt>d and Rifle, ... 
 
 I'AUK 
 
 rancc, 
 
 
 
 lo 
 
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 14 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 20 
 
 22 
 
 24 
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 48 
 
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 57 
 62 
 
* 
 
 J LLUSTRA TIONS. 
 
 :i 
 
 I'AC.B. 
 2 
 I I 
 
 Salmon Fisliiiij; on the Mi l:i])C"li,u-, I'. Q 
 
 Qiicht'c, ... 
 
 kivicri.- (In l.>iii|>. ... 
 
 Causap.sk.il, , . 
 
 Cranil and IVtit Vkli'*, . .... 
 
 Mill Stream, Mtlapcili.i, 
 
 Restigoiiclie Salmon ("hil> Properly, Mftapcdia h alion 25 
 
 Sufj.ir Lnif Moinit.iin near Caniphclllon, 2<i 
 
 Salniim I'iNhmn on ilie Rpsli};ouche, .N' 1! 
 
 Caril-oii and Moose Ilnnlinp;, Moiinlaitv.s of llie Melapedia, . . 
 
 I'olly N'iadiict, 
 
 Coal Miniiiij, . 
 
 •■alls of the I'arl itjue River, . 
 
 Halifax from Citadel. 
 
 liUereoionial Railway Station, Halifax. _ 
 
 ^lehille Island, X.)r'v\e.<t .\rni. Halifax, 
 
 Cow Hav. near Halifax, Snrf liatliint; Resort, c.j 
 
 I'ulilie Roid Suspension Uridine, FalK of the St. John River, St. John, N. 15., 5S 
 
 (rity of St. John, . 61 
 
 Rod ai d kille, .... . . , 62 
 
 >4 
 16 
 21 
 
 2.5 
 
 28 
 .^i 
 39 
 41 
 44 
 46 
 4') 
 S' 
 
 ■ r^--''-^ , >c. fix (sf ?i-,^^i^^i.^ 
 
 
soMirniixG .vP)()iT excursions. 
 
 i'AOB. 
 
 3 
 
 II 
 
 14 
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 21 
 
 23 
 
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 28 
 
 41 
 
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 \MI-.RICA is .'i land of hunKirists, iml tlu- 
 I'XiL'cilinv; hiiiiKir (if its pcopif siiiiics fdrtli 
 ill ilu'ir habits of life. Life was madf t.i hi- 
 i-njoycd. and tlicy enjoy it whether the sun 
 shires or not. Not tiiat tlu'y are an idle i^eo- 
 |)le. for they are notoriously the reverse, but 
 :ha! they pass throuijh ordeals wliich would 
 lest even the jollity of Mark Tapley, and pro- 
 fess themselves deli.i,dited amid their afllictions. 
 Ill other words, a man of inisiness will work 
 hard for ten or eleven months of the year, and , 
 then, with the idea tiial he needs rest and 
 leiTeation, will put himself and his family 
 through a eourse of sprouts feruMul to convem- 
 plate. This eour^e of sprouts is lumiorously 
 termed a fashionable pleasure excursion. It \ 
 I oiisists in a season of preparation and [laek- ' 
 \r\^, of a scttin)2f forth " to join the innumerable 
 aravan." .and of sevcTal weeks f)f wretehed 
 unrest amid the dust, heat, crush and confu- 
 sion of some jjopular resort where it is the 
 corruc'' thing for everxoue to go. There is no 
 little humor in all this. They seek freedom 
 from restraint, and go to a vorte.x of fashion; 
 tlity seek ciiiiet, and arc mingled in a I'.abel; 
 they seek rest, .'uid at the close of ea( h dav ;ire 
 ready to (lr()p witli fatigue, ("lasping amid 
 crowds on the hottest days, packed in o\er- 
 tlowmg hotels rluring the sultry nights, .swin- 
 dled by haeknien, bored by guides, pestered by 
 humbugs, tormented by tlies — crushed, wilted, 
 worried, driven half mad — they, with infinite 
 lui'.nor, term all this, pleasure! 
 
 \mid sucli a scene, while lying half-stifled 
 in a small bet high-pricetl cell, ne.ar the eaves 
 of some 'arge but well crowded hotel, the 
 wearied traveller kicks the dr.-ipery of his couch 
 from around him and lies down to troubled 
 dreams. Amid them come visitJiis of a land 
 which lies by the .sea and is fanned fjy cooling 
 breezes from the ocean. In this land are green 
 hills, shady groves and fertile vall-.ns. From 
 ihe distant mountains the crystal brooks come 
 leaping with the music of gladness, and join 
 
 with noble rivers in wliose clear w.iiers dwell 
 lordly salmon and scarce less lordly trout. 
 .Niar at hand are forests, as yet so little dis- 
 turbed th.it the moose, lanbou and bear, now 
 and ag.'iin \isit the f.irm-y.ards of the adjacent 
 settlements, and g.i/.e in bewildered surprise 
 at ll. ■ man w hose hand is raised to slay them, 
 .•\iong the shore, for humlreds of miles, lie 
 :and-loeked harbors wiurc even the frail bark 
 canoe may llo.it in safety, yet upon the waters 
 of thi! ocean; .and upon the smooth sand 
 beaches of which lvcii a child m.iy \enturc 
 into the buoyant s.ilt-water and fear not. In 
 this country is scenery at limes of sweet |3as- 
 toral simplicity; ,it times of sublime grandeur. 
 It is a land where civili/.iiion has m.ade its 
 way, and yet not m.irred the beauty of Niiture. 
 It is a country where the traveller sated with 
 an excess of conventional " excursions " will 
 tind much that is novel, much that will charm, 
 ■and much that will ever rem;iin to him as a 
 sweet remembrance of ,1 pleasant clime. 
 
 ".\hl" sighs the dreamer, "woiilil that such 
 a lot were mine. Such places there may be, 
 but where are they? My guide books tell not 
 of them. To tind them, one must abaiuion the 
 comforts of d.iily life, go far beyond nach of 
 daily m.iils and telegrams, become isf-lated 
 from the busy world, and live hundreds of 
 miles from the c.infines of civilization. ' 
 
 Not so. \\m have perhaps been down the 
 St. Lawrence as far as Quebec, from whii h, 
 as the Ulliiitii Tltiilc of vour exi iirsion, you 
 returned to your home. T.ike your map and 
 trace that line which le.ids from <>ucbcc down 
 the .St. Lawrence, across to New Hrimswick. 
 and down its c(;ast to Nova .Sc(jtia, where it 
 ends at the City of Halifax. To the east and 
 west arms reach out to I'ictou and St. John, 
 and another branch traverses Prince Kdward 
 Island. This is the Intercolonial R.iilway, one 
 of the most substantially constructed and best 
 eciuipped lines in the world. It runs through 
 hundreds of miles of ju.st such a country as 
 
 ti 
 
10 
 
 /XT/-:A((>/.i I.W.I/. /:.!//. II .I)- (IF CAXADA. 
 
 • M' Ki;i;c 
 
 li.is hfcii niiiilioiud. I'k-asurc! ;inil spnrt ma\ '■hii' in tli'- iluii'h which Chaitiplain built In 
 !)(.• I iijoyid in nuniberliss places anil yet tin; '• praiSL- ('iiiil for ilcllvfrani'i' frmii tlic invaders: 
 traveller will be within the reach of daily mails i we may litij;er amid the shadows uf the uKl 
 and the telejjraph. and may live like a i)rince I cathetiral, ammijr rare oM painiinijs by master 
 at a very mn.icratt* mitlay. It is the land for hands, and think of the days when these walN 
 which y>\\ have sij^hed ; try it and be con- ei lined the If Di-iiihs for the victories of 
 vinccd. Ho, for I Hiebec and the jirovinces by France. We may roam throii,iih queer, crooked 
 the Sea. I streets, and enter (jiiaint old houses, in the 
 
 ! dark corners of which wf^ almost look for 
 I jjhosts to come to us from the by-gone cen- 
 \\i' arc wiiliin the w.ilis of one of the turies. I'.verywherc may be found somethin),{ 
 most notable cities of .\merica — one of the to interest a mind .ijiven to contemplation. < if 
 most fanious places in tin- world. There are j all the French settlements in Canada, ( Hiebcc 
 1 ities w hich ;ir'- more f.iir to look upon ; there \ best ret.iins its ancunt form. 'I'lie h.ind ot 
 are some wiiiih the mere pleasure seeker i Time has swept .iway tlic rums of Idrt Koyal, 
 esteems more hiirjily; and there .'ire m.my .ind the i;ra''S vjrnws ovr what w.is niice the 
 which have distanced it in the march of pro- ! W( II nijjh imprevjnabU; l.ouislxnni; ; but (Quebec 
 .v,'ress. There is but one (Quebec,— old, (|uaint '< remiiins, ami will remain, the Niobc of the cities 
 and romantic, — the tht atre which h;is wit- ' of France in the western world. Here lives 
 nessed sotne of the grandest scenes in the 1 Europe in America; here the past ;ind the 
 dr.imas played by nations. \ present meet tojjetlier ; here the .seventeenth 
 
 The story of (Quebec is recorded in history, j and nineteenth centuries jostle each other in 
 but. no historian can df) justice to the theme, j the narrow streets. 
 
 I'Vom the da)' when the fleet of the inirepiil | Kvervone visits the citadel, and everyone is 
 Cartier c.isi anchor on these shores, down to ; imi)resscrl with the wonderful natural advan- 
 the hour when the Last ji^aia u.is fired in anj;er | taj^cs of the position. H;id Montcalm remained 
 from \("i batteri(;s, the story is a romance within ihce walls, the c(>ur.'i;,f<- of Wolfe wnild 
 which fiction i amiot surpass. Wli.it scenes ! h;i\e been displayed in vain. As it w.is, iifteen 
 of hope .'ind fear, of deep patience, undaunted I minutes chan.ijed the destiny of New France, 
 (uur.'iii'e and iirllaijiTinyf zeal, have these old j and made two nam<s inseparable and immortal, 
 rocks witnessed \Miat dreams of ;mibition. Ascend a bastion and thi* panorama of the St. 
 what bold projects for the glory of (li.d and Lawrence and its shores is simply superb, 
 the honor of France, h.'ive here bcf-n cherished. 1 Here one could sit for hours 
 
 Hither, from across the sea. c.une heroes. 
 Some souji;ht f.ime, antl fouml n.micless i;r;ives: 
 some ,v,nasped lor we;iith, and miserably per- 
 ishetl; while some, animated solely by a zeal 
 for the cross, won martyrs' crowns in the 
 flistaiil wilderness. For a century and a half 
 the banner of France w.'ued on this rocky 
 hei;^hll I'riest, soldier ;uid citizen had fol- 
 lo\^-cd the "star uf empire" to the western 
 world and found themselves in another I^ ranee. 
 
 " .\n<l (.omo ami cum: :ii;mM. 
 Tli.il lie might cill it uji when far away." 
 
 To sec the places usually visited ouisiile of 
 Ouebec one may employ a carter to ■•idvantajje. 
 There are i)lenly of them, and some of the 
 local guide books give them a high charaeter 
 for honesty, but the safe course is to make an 
 agreement as to price before starting, which 
 agreement is arrived at by a species of DuLih 
 
 of which '^uelx c was to be the I'aris, and j auction, commencing at the figures named by 
 within the vast territories uf which should arise the r.irter and bidding down until a fair price 
 
 a mighty n.'.tion. Here was the se.it of the 
 power of France in .'\meric;i; within these 
 walls were held the Councils of .State ; and 
 from this r.ick went forth the edicts for the 
 temporal ,ind spiritual guidance of the iHople. 
 
 is reached. The more carters there are present 
 the more interest is attached to the proctedings. 
 and the bntir chance there is of a good b ir- 
 gain. The men as a rule, are iheerful and 
 obliging, so much so. that when you trust to 
 
 For nearly a centi.'-y .md a quarter the i them as guides they will tell you more than the 
 
 ]-Inglish flag has floated .wcr the lindi I, but I historian and geogra[)her ever dreamed of in 
 
 the language, customs and religion of France their philosophy. If stojiping at the St. I.ouis. 
 
 remain. The \'.ind.'ilisin of modern im[)rove- ^ Russell House or Albion Hotels — all good 
 
 nieiit has not spoiled the features of (Quebec, 
 Some of the old historic buildings ,ire gone, but 
 
 houses ---carters can be prcn-ured at the ollices. 
 Outside of the city you will drive to the 
 
 many remain. We jiiay still view the .solid Plains of Abraham and picture out the scene 
 masonry of two centuries ago, We may vvor- i of that eventlul morning in September a cen- 
 
lain built to 
 lie iiuatlers ; 
 s of the iiM 
 ^s l)y master 
 1 tlu'se walls 
 
 victories of 
 .letT.criKiked 
 >asi-s, ill the 
 >si look f(ir 
 >y-gnne i-eii- 
 (1 soincthin.ij 
 iplation. ( If 
 laija, (.Juel)er 
 riu- hand of 
 
 I'ort Koyal. 
 i'as oiue the 
 ; hut (^uchec 
 • iif the cltks 
 I kre hvi's 
 as[ ami the 
 
 scventeeiuh 
 aeii iithcr in 
 
 1 cvcryoiie is 
 rural advau- 
 iliu leuiaiued 
 Wolfe would 
 t was, fifteen 
 New !• ranee. 
 [nd iivmuirtal. 
 iia of the St, 
 plv superb. 
 
 ;.^ •:;#■■?■, p 
 
 
 
12 
 
 / \ / /■:a'((!/.i).\7.'IJ. jx'.ULif.n i>r r.iv.i/i.i. 
 
 tiiry ami a cjuarli r a^d. Ihc inscriptinn on 
 one siiU: of Wolfe's niominu'iit is as x'''^''''^' 
 and expressive as nny scntenc e in the ICnjjIish 
 LinRuaj^e : "Here (lied Wolfe vietoiioiisl" It 
 speakh Mihinius in tlie eoni|)a.s>< of a breatii ; it 
 is sublime in its brevity. 
 
 Many nre the pleasant drives anaind (jucbce, 
 varying' from one mile to many in Icnytli. 
 Many, also, are the lolljjates wliicli bar the way 
 until five cents' worth of open sesame proi ures 
 a passajfc through. Some travellers eonsider 
 these a luiisanee. iuit all >;et accustomed to them 
 at l.t-ii, and feel lonely when ihey yet Ijack to 
 the city, where there are none. So long as 
 they e.Nist, no enemy can steal a .iiarch upon 
 the Ancient Capital. 
 
 Let those who love a siont of tramiuil 
 beauty go at the close of a day in summer, or 
 autumn, to the Dufferin Terrace and linger 
 dtiruig the long twilight of the evening. The 
 heat and glare of the day h;i\c passed away, 
 anil a gentle breeze comes from the river. 
 The last r.iys of the setting sun .ire gilding the 
 hills on the shores beyond, while the line of Uie 
 distant mountains is blending with the sky. 
 For miles and miles the eye follows the river 
 as it flows in silent grandi ur to the sea. Dis- 
 tant sails seem like the white wings of sea 
 birds, while "day in melting purple dying," 
 lulls the mind into a dreamy calnmess. The 
 shadows deepen. The lights of Levis begin ti,i 
 cluster; the houses in the Lower Town art 
 becoming more ghostly in the gathering dark- 
 ness; a sound of soft music comes fr.im an 
 open casement. We are on historic ground. 
 Here stood the stately Castle of St. Louis, 
 where for two hundred years the French and 
 ICiiglish rulers lield their court. Its glory 
 dep'iitcfl aniiil a whirlwind of tire. Far below 
 we can trace the outline of a street. It is 
 Champlain Street. How black it looks ; it 
 reniinds us of the darkness of that winter 
 morning, long ago. when Richard Montgomery 
 and his men rushed through it to their death. 
 Kver/where around us have the horrors cf war 
 been felt ; and to-night all is so peaceful that 
 the thought of war .seems out of hainiony with 
 the scene. The bells from the shijiping in the 
 harbor sound musically through the quiet air ; 
 the plaintive notes of the bugle arc borne to us 
 from the citadel ; and the flash and roar of the 
 evening gun tells of night fallen upon the 
 Ancient Capital. 
 
 Poets have sung of Q'lebec, but it is a poem 
 of itself which no langu.ige can express ; its 
 memories linger in the mind, like the sweet 
 remembrance of harmonious music heard in 
 the years long [)assed away. 
 
 I i;\ IS, AM) III '.VON I). 
 
 Across the broafl river to Levis, and wc are 
 ready for our r.iilw.iy journey. If the time can 
 be sp.ued, a dri\e shoulil be taken on the 
 heights, for it is from these that (Juebec, its 
 harbor, the river and the surrounding country 
 can be seen to best advantage. Here, also, 
 can be seen addition.al evidence of the solu itude 
 of Lngl.ind f^r the s.afety of her (oioiiies. 
 I'ortifications, of which the cost is reckoned by 
 millions, conmi.uul every jioint of land ;md 
 water for miles. I'eace has reigned here 
 since they were built, but they are ready for 
 the evil hour, should it ever conte. 
 
 Having seen what there is of interest .arouml 
 this part of the St. I.iwrence, including the 
 Chaudierc Falls, the traveller surrenders him- 
 self to the comforts of the Intercolonial. The 
 first point of im[iorrauce reached is Chaudiere 
 Jiiiction. where connection is made with the 
 (iiand Trunk Railway, ami theiue with all 
 p.arts of the I'pper Provinces and the I'liucd 
 States. I'assing onw.ird, the eye catches sight 
 of one after another of the typical French 
 villages, where the habitants live in peaceful 
 (luiet. little disturbed by the advent of •r.tran- 
 gers. Some of these vill.ages are prettily 
 situated and possess local traditions of more 
 or less interest. Among these is Riviere 
 Ouelie, which takes its n.inie from the tragedy 
 of which Madame Houel was the heroine, in 
 the days when the Iroquois ro.imed upon these 
 shores. 'tlie At)be Casgraiii tells the story 
 under the title of "La jongleiisc," and men- 
 tions that the tracks of snow shoes, imprinted 
 on tiic rocks of the lieach. are to be seen defy- 
 ing the action of wind and wave. The im- 
 prints of human feet and h.ands in the rock 
 were formerly visible, but have now disap- 
 peared. 
 
 Ste. Anne, one of several pl.aces of that 
 name, is the seat of a convent of (irey Nuns 
 and a rollege which will accommodate about 
 300 students. 
 
 Kamouraska is reachet! from St. Paschal 
 Station, and is the first summer resort of note 
 after leaving (Hiebec. A drive of about five 
 miles from the station brings one to the village, 
 beautifully situated on the shore.^ The native 
 population is about 1,200. but the sununer 
 months see a large increase in the number of 
 residents. Good accommodations may be had 
 at the St. Louis Hotel, as well as at private 
 houses. The place is well patronized by visi- 
 tors during the season, and is growing in favor. 
 Governors Morris and Macdonald, and other 
 well-known public men, have been among those 
 
A'n'//:A/: iw I.OUP, 
 
 >3 
 
 sctkinx rfiTcation and nst in this plcnsnnt 
 iiodic. The natiir.il nilvant.mts, us a wattrini;. 
 j)laie, are .•nhiiirable, '1 In- hi'arh is .i tine one 
 and well sheltcrfd. Halhinv; Ix-re is a luxury. 
 A little (iistaiu c fmrn the .shnro arf .i nunibcT 
 (if [jii'turesqiic islands, annnKl whii h jjlcasiire 
 hoats glide, and iipf>n which are the resorts of 
 picnic panics. The situ.xtiun of Kainourask.i 
 is ail that can be desired. 
 
 Twenty miles belosv is the villaj^c of Notre 
 Dame du I'orlaijc, derivinjj its name from the 
 fact thai tlw pnri.ii;e ai rcss to New Uiuns- 
 wick, a distance of about i(> miles, was form- 
 erly made fmrn this point. The village is six 
 miles from Riviere dn I.oiip iiy rail, anil con- 
 nection IS also had by a j^'oud carriajre m.id. 
 It is a retired spot, resorted to by families who 
 are fond of a ipiiet vacation, but haviny; a tine 
 tieach and ifood l)athini; is well worthy of a 
 more extended fame. 'I'linse who luive passed 
 their sumtners amid its beauties have mu( h to 
 .say m its praise. 
 
 rivii-:rk 1)1' i.cnu'. 
 
 Here is a place n<>t tn be passed by under 
 the impression that its chief bcuities arc t') be 
 ^V'-n from the car windows. It is a villaije of 
 consitierable importance, with a well est;ib- 
 li.'hed reputation as a sun.mer resort, and is in 
 many respects a most con'.ciiient place for the 
 tourist. It is a centre from wliit^h one may go 
 to various points, cither on the St. Lawrence 
 or b.'ick into the woods where xamc and fish 
 alxHind, making tliis the luad-i|u,uters for the 
 deposit of luggage and the receipt of mail mat- 
 I'T. The full title o^ the place is Riviere du 
 I.oup, <•;/ fhts, the afii.v being given to dis- 
 tinguish it from another village of the same 
 name, rn haut. As the two are two or three 
 iuiiulreil miles apart, the distinction has not 
 alvv-ays been very clear to strangers. This is, 
 however, ihc Riviere du I.on;) to which letters 
 are sent in the absence of any qualifying words. 
 The portion of the village near the water is 
 teitnetl Fraserville, in honor of the Fraser fam- 
 ily, in whom the .Seigneurial Rights were 
 vested, after the conquest of Canada in the 
 last century. 
 
 Situated near the coniluence of the J'livierc 
 du Loup and the St. L.iwrence, and being 
 directly on the shore of tlie latter, the place 
 abounds in iMctures(iuc scenery of all kinds. 
 Near the railway the smaller river makes a 
 descent of more than 200 feet, by a succession 
 of falls whi('h make their way through a gorge 
 over which bigh and precipitous rocks stand 
 sentinel. In the vii.inity, "hills peep o'er hills," 
 clothed in all the varying hues of green, while 
 
 toward the St. Lawrence the open eotiniry, 
 s|)rinklrd with well-finished liou.ses, makes a 
 pleasing contrast to the rugged aspect of the 
 land which lies in the rear. I'pon the shore 
 a glorious prospirt Is o|)ened to the view. 
 Here the estuary begins to widen in its jour- 
 ney tu the Hca, and the nKuintains v:\ tlie 
 northern sliore, a score of miles away, stand 
 out m bolil leliei against the clcir blue sky, 
 Upon the waters, just far enough away to 
 I "lend enchantment to the view," are the 
 white-winged argosies of commerce, be.uing 
 j the flags of every mariiiine nation At times, 
 ' a long, low shape on the waves and a long, 
 I slender cloud t1o.\ting la/ily away marks the 
 I |)ath of the ocean steamship. Ncirer the shore 
 { arc smaller craft of all sizes and shai)es-- 
 I fishers, traders and seekers after {Measure. If 
 ' one longs to join them, a bo.it is ;it hand and 
 soon is dancing on the gentle billows, while 
 1 the sea-l)irds skim the waters in their circling 
 I (lights, and the solemn-eyed /i/ii/i-niiin'ii rises 
 near at hand, v.mishes and rises again, as if 
 .sent by N'einune to demand the stranger's 
 I errand. It was from these creatures, say some, 
 that the river lirrived its name, rather than 
 from the ill-vi..;iged wolf of the forest. It is 
 more pleas.mt to think so, at all evi nts. 
 
 The waters around us abound in all kinds of 
 crcitures, great and small. The chief of these 
 IS the white whale, the Jlr/u^'ri !!oiraf/s, which 
 is usually, but erroneously, terrnetl the white 
 porpoise. Its length is from fourteen to 
 twenty-two feet, and each carcass yields some- 
 thing over a hundred g.illon .'iif oil. This oil, 
 when refined, is worth about a dollar a gallon, 
 and as there is no scarcity of tlie creatures, the 
 t'ishery might be made a very valuable one. It 
 re(iuires considerable i.'ipital to fit ovk and carry 
 on an establishment for this purpose, anil so 
 far only one gentlem.'in has had sutiicieiu faith 
 to persevere in it. He li.is a steam-\-acht, nets 
 and other ajiparatus, and is contident that, 
 properly m.nnaged, there is "millions in it." 
 The halibut and sturgeon come ne.xt in order 
 of si/.e, after them the si.lnion and then all the 
 smaller fish common to this l.ititude. 
 
 Returning to the shore, if the day be bright 
 and warm, the long line of smooth beach, 
 abounding in cosy nooks and corners, invites a 
 bath. The adjective "warm" is the correct 
 one for this part of the continent in summer, 
 it being a relative term w'lich den(»tes an 
 .-ibscnce of cold without an excess of heat. It 
 is never hot here. The days when coats, col- 
 lars and cuffs become a burden and humanity ' 
 wilts in the sh.ade are unknown on these shores. 
 The rays of the midsummer sun are tempered 
 
1-^ 
 
 /.\"n:A'n>/i>.\7.i/. A'./// /( / 1 (V L.i.x.uu. 
 
 lifinl 111 iia\ ii;ati<'n, ahixit Nixtv-f'ivf niilcn from 
 
 th<' iiiiiiitli, I'llliriv; at lla! lla! Hay, Tatloii- 
 
 .lac, at the innr.th of the river, in un old nrxl 
 
 hisliirir stttlctiifnt, anil i(intaiii-< the ruins < f 
 
 th( <il(lr>.t cliiinli ill C.iMada. 'I his was nti- 
 
 olht r "f the favonto rtsorts nf ion! Unffcrin, 
 
 and a nnnilirr nf othirs, Aimrir.ins as \v«'ll an 
 
 ians, liaM- handsump Hiiinniir rrsuli-nds lu-ri-. 
 
 rr.iy Hay. ahoiit 'm iiiili'S hi'low niiclRT, i<i 
 
 r spot wilt re tin; wild and inajifstic siH'ntry 
 
 It? fnjiiytd, Niiinhrrs ri-soii thi-rt- during the 
 
 u r, (r<ini various ( iiics of ( anada, many havinnf 
 
 nr tlu'ir use durini; the sea.MPti. 
 
 Keiiirnin>; tn Kiviere du Lnup l)y the steamer, one may 
 
 III certain I'nnditiniis uf the atnnis|>here, uliserve a sinj^uiar 
 
 iniiMj^i- ani'iiiK iIk islands Ixlwien that |)la<'e and Kanmii- 
 
 .i>k,i, an ncnirrenee which must liavc been rt^'ardcd with 
 
 V>" small amount of superstitious awe by the 
 
 Indians o( the eiirlier days. All the Lower St. 
 
 i.awreni't: is full of beamy and .ihnunds . li"- 
 
 torieal reminiseeiiees and tr.iditions. 'I'ho. who 
 
 have taste for such ihinj^.s should read the writ- 
 
 nikcs of I.cMoine. laueher, C.'asv,'rain, 'f.iche and 
 
 IJuics, all of which .-ire worthy of perusal. 
 
 rhiiit. I.I' LotTP. 
 
 byjjcii'lt. bree/es, wliich invij-orale the sy.siem, 
 and a jj.un!)o| annd the waters causes a decree 
 of exhilai'.'iiioii which once enjoyed is not soon 
 forgotten. 
 
 Anion^- thi. more |ironiinein people who have 
 spent the .-luiiiiner ni'iiuhs at Ki\icrc du L<nip, 
 
 roKl.STS .\NI) ,S IKK .\MS. 
 
 'l"akins Kivierc <lu I.ou|> as a centre, the 
 sportsman has .n field only limited by Iiis lime 
 and inclination to shoot and fish. Nature h;is 
 been prorlij^al in her ijifts. .ind thouiih Indians 
 and their white brothers have made sore h.ivoc 
 may be mentiom d Lord Dutferin. It is not I anionic the 'reatures i)f the woods, in tiic past, 
 recorded that he spoke of the scenery as "the \ enoiij(h rein.iin to employ the hunter for }.jener- 
 linest in t'anad.i. ' thoui;h there are about ations to come. In one rcsjject, however, an 
 Iwiity-hve diiiiieiit j^laics of wlii'h it is unbridled license to kill has had its elfeet. 
 claimed ihat he ni;ide that rem;uk, but he (li<i | Once the moose, kintf of the .North .\merican 
 express liims<lf ;;re:ily ple.ised with the place. \ forests, roamed these woods in vast herds. 
 '1 he views arc ch;irmin,i;, the walks and drives j Had they f)eeii shot simjjly for the purjiosigs of 
 v.iried and beautiful, the bathin.vj f.icilities are \ food, or in the way of lei;itim;ite sport, iliey 
 e.xcelleiit. while the shootini>f and lislrnv; in the would have been plenty at thisd.iy. Lnsparin;tj 
 vicinity afford ample recreation lo the ■ntlci- hands spread destruction amon,i( them for ilie 
 siasts f)f tlu' i^in! ..lul rod. -ake of t(ain, and drove tlieui tcj more distant 
 
 Ste;.mcrs call at the wharf daily, durinjj the ; haunts, 
 sumiTiir, and aiford an adn-irablc chance for ' The caril.iou, ijanie lit for any sportsman, are 
 seeint; the places <>f note on ilie northern shore, still to be found in larv;e numlx.rs. The season 
 chief amoiiv; which arc Murray Bay, Tadoiisac for them, in this I'rovince. . vteiids from the ist 
 
 of .September to the rst of fcbiu.iry; anil they 
 are to be found almost anywhere between St. 
 Ale.xandie .md Campbelton, within a short dis- 
 tance of the railw.ay track. In some p];ices 
 this distaiiee would be two, ,ind in others ti n, 
 miles, (Jf course, skill, ex|teriencc. and tjood 
 guides, are necessary to tind them .it all times; 
 
 .md the f;imed S.ivjiicnay Kivi r. The latter is 
 one o( the ii'oPt reniitrkablc places in .\merica 
 — -'a iremendoua cli.ism, like tiiat of the lordan 
 Valley and the Dead .Sea." says Uayard 'I'aylor, 
 * <:lefr for si.\ly miles llirouiuch the heart of a 
 mountain wilderness." Its waters, bl.ack and 
 Stvyian, have vast depths evervwhere, 
 th 
 
 u.-dl.s of rock lower aloft in ,i majestic but a .sportsman who understands his business, 
 
 >;loom which impresses the most thou.ifhtlcss ; and who .yocs to the riiL^ht loc.-ilitv, need not be 
 
 mind with a deep sense of awe. L'p this j surprised if he brint;- down as many as twenty 
 
 strange river one in;;y;iscend to Chicommii, the I in ,i fortni,i;lit's lumi. To .iccomplish this, he 
 
joAhsrs H.w s/a'j:.l\/.s. 
 
 I 
 
 «5 
 
 iiuixl l>p |)irpar»'(l fnr his wurk ami )«• rracly tn not far from thf TrmiHoniiitn. If iic h.ul not 
 
 si.Kid .toiiH" f.Jtiijiii', 1- mtn KiMcrc fill I nup he (Inured the lu-ar, tlic luar wniiM Imm' lluorcil 
 
 ini\ net out ina vmifiyof ilirfitionsfiirnrounds i him, hut tin; ){"" pniveil true :iiul !i hrilliani 
 
 whii h lire know 11 in In- j-dml, itiul whcro <aii- | vii ti>ry was ihi* result. 
 
 hull arc |).»iii<iilarl\ al>imil;iMi. One (if tlicsc I'arirulijr arr very numerous Wlu'u a wi-alc 
 
 Is in the illreciiou of Tenustduata I.aki'. ^H or lazy man jjoen after theni he 1ms to take 
 
 mill's (listant, and n\or an easy highway. Mere somi- one with him to carry the loail home. So 
 
 is a sportman's paradise, amid sicnery of tiie pUiitifiil are they near Kivicre ilu l.oiip, that 
 
 most heautifni desrripiioii the fon st al)<>im<liti>; \\ ni, I'raser, lisij,, ilie present Siij^ni-ur, shot 
 
 III t^ame and tht; lakes and rivers lecmiiiv; wiili as munv as lilty>four in one day, kiilinv; fourteen 
 
 li<.li Here one may five for weclts. and never , of them without movinjf out of Ins traekn. To 
 
 weary in liis ahsiiu c fruin the husy haunts of him who has carried a ^nn mile after milt ff>r 
 
 men. a whole day and hei'ii proud U< cxhihit one 
 
 All the forest to the south of this part of the ! unfortunate hird as his trophy, thi. may aj'pear 
 
 railway affords gofid sport The sportsman like a lou|ijh story. .Vevi-itheless it is true. 
 
 ( ,111 I. ike his rhoiee of Koinn ,i loot; or ;i sliort Thi- ni.in who ^ocs after partrid^jes in this 
 
 distance. The h.ii k eoinitry of Maine tan he vicinity dois not have lo sneak home hy n fKuk 
 
 easily reachid fron\ St. Alexaiulrc. or one may ron<l to .ivoid the ehalf of his neij;liliors for liis 
 
 no iweniv mill's lron\ Riviere dii I.oiip and Uul huk. Ih- stalks aloni; with pride in his 
 
 liiid the St.' I'ramis River, and follow it V> the , fwv and i load on his haek, .ind is only vcteil 
 
 St. John. Trom Kl);iii Ro.nd, or I.'llet, tlic that the spietaele iv. too eoinmo.i to excite 
 
 lie.id waters of the Restii^ouehe and Mir.-imici'w [ wonder 
 
 m.iy he r««iilu'd. .Ml these ;ire in ih-- midst of Around the shores, ).;c''si', hrant and diick« 
 
 happy Inintinn; grounds. of .ill kinds are lound in nr,.nensi' ll.' ks in the 
 
 Some of the hest e.irihoo huntinjj is lo be 
 had .'imonf; the Shi, kshocks Moiint.iins, in 
 ("i.isiie. This is the land >i( the lariliou. In 
 ihe depths of the wilderness, amid mountains 
 nearly 4,o<X) feet hij.jh, and surrounded by 
 scenery of the most wild and ruj^'iLfed rharacter, 
 y :\n ahiiiul.incc of r,-ire sport. This has hi-en 
 one uf the resorts of Lord Dunraven. who has, 
 iiuleed. hunted in all p.irts of this eountry. 
 
 fall and sprin^j. lie \'crtc and Kainoiira.ska 
 are. in particular, favorite resorts for this kind 
 (if if.'inie, and hundreds in;iy he ^hot with i.ise. 
 Much that has heen said in ri(;.ird to th(! 
 hunting in the vicinity of Riviere ilu l.fnip will 
 apply to the coiiniry aloni; the next two hun- 
 dred miles, or until .'ifter the houndary of NCw 
 Hrunswick has hem passed. Riviere dii l.oiip 
 has not heen singled out as the only |)lace, 
 
 ineelini;; with excellent success. On his last ' biitsimplyasasampleofwh.it vrrv maiy are 
 
 hunt, when accompanied hyCamiihell .M.icnah, like as r('^;;irds their surr(>uiidiii>;s, an'l to .ivoid 
 
 I''s(i,, he started as many as forty-one caribou -i reiteration of the same f.icts in connection 
 
 111 three days. Of these they killed fifteen, , with each place, A similar course is taken in 
 
 Mr. .M;icn;ih is an ardent follower of the chase, rejfard to some of the fi attires of the lishiiisf. 
 
 who i^aincd his first knowled^ije of the country ' This is aland of lish, .-md such tishi ( inc 
 
 while en,y;.i,v(ed in the survey of the Intercolonial, i may eat them at every meal on his journey 
 
 Impressed with its advantajjes as a field for through the eountry. Halibut, salnmn, herring' 
 
 sport, he snhs('i|uently took U|^ his resideiu'c ,ind smi It from the .St. Lawrence, and salmon. 
 
 at Rivieredn 1,'Uip, win le he li\es, surrounded tul.idi. s(.i. brook and Like trout fnun the 
 
 by the trophies of his iii.uiy and successful waters that .ire tributary to it. Salmon ,ir'' 
 
 hiails. .Mr, M.icnab accompanied H, R, H. found in iicirly ail the rivers, ;iiul the nvijority 
 
 I'riiice .Arthur on a successful hunt dutin.< the of the streams are leased by the (lovcrmnent 
 
 I'rince's visit in iS6(>, and has. ilso accompanied to individuals. It is not diHicult, however, for 
 
 loiiiit Turenne and other eminent sportsmen, j asir.'in),;er triobt.'iin pertriission to tish for them. 
 
 Am expedition with the Marijuis of Lome. Trout are found in all the rivers .md lakes and 
 
 ( iovernor-C.cneral, was dec l.ired "off,"thr()U'^li .ire free to .ill comers. 'I'he usu.il si/.e of those 
 
 '•ircumstances reiiuiriniLj the presence of His in the lakes is from live to six pounds; the 
 
 l'"xcelleney elsewhere. | river trout run from three to four pounds. All 
 
 Other g.-ime may be had for the seekin.^. \ the trout of this rev;ion are very "Kamy," and 
 
 Hears souK'times niaki^ their .ippc.irance wlien ' afford abundant sport. In the lakes i-, .ilso 
 
 least loukcd for . -11111 often m.ike lively episodes i found the tuladi. which seems identical with 
 
 in the sportsman's journey. In August, 1879, j the toi^^ue of Nor'hern Maine and New llruns- 
 
 Hon. W. W. Thomas, of I'ortland. .Me., li.id a ; wick. Specimens have been cauifiil \veiv;hinj4 
 
 n.irrow esi.ipe at one of the Squ.itook lakes, ' as much as forty pounds e;iih. or as larjje as a 
 
 M 
 
 J 
 
 t 
 
 I 
 
 i» 
 
i6 
 
 INTENCOLOiXIAL KAILIVAV OF CANADA. 
 
 good sized salmon. It has inclccd Ix'cn (.cm- 
 (oiindcd with tlif lake '^almon of SwitzcrlaiKl, 
 and with oihfTs uf the saliiMii family of luiropc, 
 but it appears to be identioai with no one of 
 thern. 1 1 is usually very fat, and very rcsen'ed — 
 not to say la/.y. It lurks and li' s in the deep 
 waters of tlie dcp lakes, as if given to contem- 
 plation rather than the gratification of appetite. 
 For all that, it is a voracious creature and does 
 apiiroach the surface in the cool of the morning 
 and evening. It does not rise to the lly, Ijut 
 may he taken by trolling. It is good eating, 
 ihougii less delicate than other trout or salmon. 
 All lakes .ire free to fishers, for all kinds of 
 fisli. 
 
 C \\nv. AND PADDLE. 
 
 The liuen.olonial has one feature which few, 
 if ,iny, rai!\\'ays possess 
 to the same e.xlent. For 
 a distance of. several 
 hundred miles it is in- 
 tersected by navigable, 
 but not tlangerous. riv- 
 ers. By lhe.se natural 
 highw ays one may jjur- 
 sue his journey far into 
 I he interior, mak^ a 
 siiort portage fruni the 
 liead -waters of one lo 
 those of another and 
 ilescend th<. latter to 
 the line of railway. A 
 glance at the map will 
 ^how what ample op- 
 portunities thtre ar(.- 
 for this kind of recrea- 
 tion. Leaving the rail- 
 way and .ascending one 
 river, ( oming down an- 
 other and up another, 
 spending days among the lakc'':, li.^hing, shoot- 
 ing, enjoying life to the utm(.)st, one is as 
 much in the wilderness as if thousands of > 
 miles away. N'et all this time iie knows that, 
 if necessary, a few hours will bring him to 
 the railway, the mail and the tclegijiph — 
 to communication with the busy world. He 
 may leave the railway on the shores of the 
 St. I..avvreace and make a c.uioe voyage to the : 
 T?aie desCli.ileurs or the 15ay of Fundy. When 
 he arrive.- at his destination he will find his 
 luggage ami his letter.s awaiting him. The 
 route ma\ be v.iried .'ind thi; voyage prolong! d 
 .as may suit the \-oyager's taste. 1'artii. iilarly ■ 
 good ti'-him; 111 ly be had .it Lakes St. I'r.ineis 
 and Tpmiscouata and on IheToledi River; but , 
 on such a trip one can fish .and hunt everywheie , 
 
 c.vt'SArsc.vi,, 
 
 as he goes. \n tlie Teniiscouata region alone 
 one may make a canoe voyage for .it le.ist 
 eighty miles, and if he i hooses can by portag- 
 ing ir-m one river to another descend ihe great 
 Miramiv:hi to the ocean. Portages can be made 
 so as to reach any of the three great rivers of 
 I\e\\ Brunswick, the Miramichi, Restigouche 
 or St. John. In f.act. the whole country is 
 open to any man who can sit in a canoe and 
 ply a paddie. 
 
 CACOUNA. 
 
 Rushing along on liie express on a winter 
 day one c.itches sight of a way station, (> miles 
 below Riviere du Loup. There does not 
 appear to be much of a settlement in the vicin 
 ity, and, altogether, the attr.aetions seem few 
 and far between. .Strangers intjiiire if this be 
 Cacouna, of which they have heard so 
 much! Well, it is, and it is not. It is 
 one end of it, and serves as a foil to 
 make the beauties of the other end the 
 more apparent when one gets there, 
 ("aionna i^ papili"naceous. If the 
 ' proof-reader .sees that the compositor 
 :" does not murder the foregoing .select 
 
 adjeetive, the public will grasp the 
 situation at a glance. In the summer 
 _^, it spreads its wings and is 
 
 jubilant ; its sh.ires ; re 
 thronged by the votaries 
 of pleasure; boats dance 
 upon the water; ihf 
 gay and festive dance 
 upon the land; there 
 is music in the air. 
 .and brightness every- 
 where. In the winter, 
 it subsides i it j an 
 ordinary villa, ,e; the 
 natives sit alongside 
 of two-story stoves and dream of the coming 
 summer; empty houses abound ; and the great 
 hotel is abaiKloned to silence, to darkness, and 
 i(> I'eter Donnegan. 
 
 Kveryone who says or writes anything about 
 Cacouna considers that his inspiration is p.ir- 
 ricularly happy when he terms it "the Saratoga 
 of Canada." "I'he place has, however, acijuired 
 an individuality whicli will allow the borrowed 
 title to become e.xtinct, and the name of 
 "Cacouna" is enough. This is the great sum- 
 mer resort of the Lower St. Lawrence, and the 
 jiopul.atioii is numbered by thousands during 
 the season. A gnicefu! l-ay, with a beautiful 
 beach of gray sand fronts the village. Ip die 
 rear the land rises to a height suflicient ic com- 
 mand a view across the broad river to where 
 
 'i?lv*-^> 
 
LliS J/AIiJT.l.\ rS I>E LA .\oUVKI.Ij:-l-RA\CE. 
 
 17 
 
 iC (Jance 
 t.hcrt; 
 lie air. 
 
 ss (■very- 
 winter, 
 ifa yn 
 ,e; itie 
 
 longside 
 roiiiin^' 
 grear 
 vss, and 
 
 •^ about 
 is par- 
 aratoy^a 
 vquireii 
 
 )ITn\ved 
 
 lunie of 
 tt suir,- 
 [iid the 
 during 
 L.autifvil 
 li' ihe 
 r com- 
 •vhere 
 
 tlie sullen Sagueiiay makes its way thrnugli the 
 in(*untains. Siantling in a well-chosen jiosition 
 i^ the "St. Lawrenee Hail" in which five hun- 
 dred people can eat, druiT? and be merry during 
 their stay. Scattered along the shore are private 
 reside'ice.A, for summer use, while numerous 
 (■ther houses are filled with summer boarders. 
 The village is two miles from the railway station, 
 and is also a nl;ice of call for the St. Lawrence 
 steamers. Cacouna was one of the jilaces visi- 
 ted by Prince .Arthur, and was also visited by 
 Lord Duffenn while Ciovernor-deneral. 
 
 I'(jr those who wish to spend a summer at 
 tlie sea-side, aiid yet enjoy the pleasures of 
 society, Cacouna offers great attractions. Its 
 hotel accommodation is excx'llent, he bathing, 
 boating, etc., are all that can be desir^id, and 
 all the conveniences of life are to be enjoyed. 
 The sportsman will find good fishing and hutit- 
 iiig; the lovers of excitement can find fascina- 
 tion in the horse-races, while the devoutly 
 inclined w'll find not only the usual parish 
 church, h'i, what 's .somewhat rrue itf this 
 country, kwo Pro'.estant nurches as well. 
 Cacouna is, in all respects, a well equipped 
 watering-place. 
 
 L r. S 1 1 .\ B IT A N T S T) E L .\ \ O V - 
 
 \i:ll]::-fra\,k. 
 
 The railway and ;eiegraph of the nineteenth 
 century run through a country in which hun- 
 dreds of people are to all intents and purno^^es 
 in the seventeenth century. Not to their dis- 
 respect be this sail!, but as showing tlie tenacity 
 with which thty adhere to their language, 
 manners and customs. The Canadian hahitattti 
 arc prob.'ibly as conservative as any people on 
 earth. N\"here innovati<jns are thrust upon thefn 
 by the march of [irogress tluy adapt themselves 
 10 the changes; but where they are left to 
 themselves they are happy in the enjoyment of 
 'he life theii fathers led, and ,ire vc.\ed by no 
 restless ambition to be other than they have 
 been. Their wants are sinijile am! easily 'sup- 
 plied; they li\e peaceful and moral lives; and 
 they are tilled with an abiding love for their 
 l.iiiguage and a profound vener.ition for their 
 religion. By nature light-hearted and vivai-ious, 
 th'-y are Optimists without knowing it. Inured 
 •o the (dimate, they find enjoyment in its nio,--! 
 rigorous seasons. French in all their thoughts, 
 words and deeds, ihcy are yet loyal to the 
 British crown, anil contented under British rule. 
 'I'heir ani'ient l;uvs are secured to them by sol- 
 i mn compact ; and theJr language and religion 
 .ire l.indinarks which will never be moved. In 
 lilaccs where the English have established 
 liieinselves, soaie of the Intbitiints undersjand 
 
 the English language, but none of them adopt 
 it as their own. 'flu- mingling of races has a 
 contrary effect, and the English tongue must 
 yield to the French, There are many English- 
 men in (2uebec whose children do not under- 
 stand a word of their father's native tongue; 
 but there are no Frenchmen whose children 
 are ignorant 'if tne language of Fr.ince. 
 
 A traveller is \'ery favor.ably impressed by 
 the manners of the country ])eople. Many of 
 them are in very humble circumstances; books 
 are to them a sealed mystery; and their cir- 
 cumstances of life are not such as arg supposed 
 to conduce to retinement of manners. \et 
 ever\'\vhere the stranger tneets with couriesy, 
 and llnds the evidence of true politcnijss — not 
 mere ceremonial politeness, but that which is 
 lictated by sincerity and aims at the accom- 
 plishment of a stranger's wishes as a matter of 
 duty. Where one does not understand the 
 language they will take great trouble to com- 
 prehefid his meaning; where he can speak even 
 indifferent French, he can make- himself per- 
 fectly at home. 
 
 The railway runs through the land of ihe 
 French Canadian, imtil after the Metapi-diac 
 is reached. Everywhere is seen the familiar 
 church; no hamlet is too poor to have a good 
 one. Should you seek the cure, you .vill find 
 him a man whom it is a pleasure to meet — 
 Well informed, ,'iffable anil full of the [)r,ii^es of 
 the land in wliicii he lives. The /lal.'iiants 
 have a sincere regarci for their spiritual advisers, 
 who are truly pastors to their people, and whose 
 lives are devoted to the w.-11-being of their tlocks. 
 They follow in the steps of the |)ioneer mission- 
 aries, whose heroic devotion in the past must 
 forever be honored by men of every creed. 
 
 Leaving Cacouna, the next j)lace of interest 
 reached is Trois I'istoles, and it has a tliarni for 
 the traveller at whatever hour of the ilay or night 
 he .nay arrive. This consists in the Railway 
 Dining- 1^ 00m. which is a model of neatness 
 and has a table fit to charm the most fastidif)us 
 taste. One does not rec)uire to be very hungry 
 to enjoy the viands of this place, wliich, under 
 the present nianagemeiit, need not fear com- 
 parison with any in the country, Trois I'istoles 
 village is prettily situ.ited, and there is good 
 lake .and river tishing in the vicinity. L.ike St. 
 Simon, a beautiful sheet of water, deserves 
 particular mention. The name of the village 
 is derived either from tlir e jiistoles being orig- 
 inally given for a piece of laml in the vi» inity, 
 or from a man losing that smii, or from a trade 
 with the lndi;ins in which that sum changed 
 hands. The antiquarian can choose whicm^cer 
 of the tlir.-e tr.iditions seems iuo>t reasonable. 
 
 i 
 
I8 
 
 /\t/:rc()Ja)A7.ii. A\i//.ii:n- cv-- caxada. 
 
 Thcrp is no good nuthnrity for any one of 
 them. 
 
 Eiyliti'fn niilLS iimri; of a railway ride brings 
 one to 
 
 ]uc: i!i:AU'rii'U(. \\\c\ 
 
 "S'ou arc ill tin- air above it when you llrst 
 r-atch Nii(ht iif the village, with its harbor and 
 islets. In order to ;,fet throiij^h this jiait of the 
 ciiiintry. the railway had to be carried around 
 I'lic mountain, and is in one place 150 feet 
 above the post road. The mountain rises over 
 the railway again for a height of 250 feet more. 
 .■\ vast amount of labor was expended on this 
 part of tlie road. In some places the rock was 
 blasteii to a depth of eighty feet to allow space 
 for the tra(.k to hug the mountain side. From 
 this height a s])ifiidid view of the St. Lawrence 
 is obtained, the estuary being about twenty- 
 five miles wide and rapidly widenmg below 
 until it merges with the world of waters. Was 
 it not from the heights (jf Jiic that an.xious eyes 
 watched the fleet of Wolfe, -sailing quietly up 
 the St. Lawrence on a fair day in Jinie, long- 
 years ago? Nearer it came, and oh, joy I the 
 vessels carried the Hag of France, The long 
 expected succour had conif from beyond the 
 sea. I'.very heart was tilled wuh joy; swift 
 messengers started to carry the glad news to 
 (,>uebec. Suditenly the tlag of the leading ves- 
 sel w;is run driwn : a moment later and the llag 
 of F'.nglarid sireameJ out to the brecv.e. It was 
 the fleet of the enemy with thousands of sol- 
 iliers destined to conquer Canada ! Among the 
 watchers on shore was a priest who've nerves 
 had been strung to the utmost tension with joy. 
 When the dread truth so suddenly burst upon 
 him. Nature could bear no more, and he fell to 
 the e.irth — dead ' 
 
 Descending the mountain. Die \illage is sofin 
 reached. It is one of the f nest natural water- 
 in;^-places on the whole St Lawrence. The 
 mount.iins an? around it, .and it nestles at their 
 feet amid the beauties of the scenery. There 
 is m.ore here than a mere stretch of shores. 
 There is a h.'irb'ir in v.hich an ocean steamer 
 may rid--, a haven wherein vessels may liirle 
 from the wnith of the storm-king. Romantic 
 isles lie amid tic waters, ;ind crags of ruggi'd 
 beauty rear their heads around the shores. 
 Pleasant beaches tempt the bruher ; placid 
 waters invite' the boattnar! : and beauty every- 
 where summons the idler from his resting plaee 
 to dri\'e or ramble in its midst. The harbor is 
 sim()ly charming to one who lirst beholds it, 
 and " time but the unpression deeper m;ikes," 
 It never beentnes monotonous; one never 
 wi-aries <i\ ga.dng I'p^.n it. 
 
 Long0gn the French recognized the v.alue 
 of fJic and its h.'u'bor. Here they proposed to 
 erect fortifie.aiions and maintain a naval station. 
 England, too, found its value as a port when 
 h.er men and munitions of war were landed 
 here from the Pirsiii, at the lime of the Trent 
 trouble. Since the completion of the railway, 
 Hie has become better known than befnre. 
 Lovers of be.iuty have located summer resi- 
 dences in the village, and ye.ir by year enjoy 
 the summer breezes. Fishing is had in abund- 
 ance ; and if there were no fish, the streams 
 winding their way among the hills, through all 
 kinds of picturesque dells, would well v^-\y,\\- 
 full many a toilsome tramp. 
 
 No account of Bic would be complete with- 
 out ^onie reference to the story of J.'J/rt iiu 
 .Uirssarrt-, one of the isles near the vill.age. 
 The tale is an old one. IJonnaeona told it to 
 lacques Cartier on his '^econd visit to Canad.i. 
 and '*■ has been told in a great variety of fcjrms 
 eve- ice. The tradition is that a band of 
 Mie... :, consisting of about two hundred 
 men women and children, heard of the ap- 
 proach of a party of hostile Iro({uois and fled 
 for concealment to the large cave on this 
 island. The Iroquois discovered the place of 
 retreat and laid siege to it, but met with an 
 obstinate resistance. I^'inding themselves un- 
 able to dislodge the Micmacs by ordinary 
 means, they advanced behind shields of boughs, 
 carrying torches of bark, and by igniting all 
 the dry wood in the vicinity compelled the 
 enemy to come forth. A general massacre 
 took place, in which all the Mictnacs, save 
 five, were .slaughtered and their bones left to 
 bleach upon the island. Here the narrative 
 usually ends, f)nt Mr. Tache, in his '/'rtus 
 Lc^rfii^i's, gives a sequel which, whether his- 
 torically correct <jr not, gives a better dramatic 
 effect and is more s;itisfactory to lo\ei-s of 
 fair-play. He allegis that all who were in the 
 cave we.e killed, and that the five said to have 
 escaped were ilespalched, at the first alarm, a 
 part to demand assistance from the friendly 
 Malacites at Madawaj^ka, and the others to 
 act as scouts. Twenty-five Malacite warriors 
 responded to the summons, but too late to 
 prevent t!ie massacre. They then, aided by 
 their five allies, secretly followed the track of 
 the Iroquois, and unseen themselves, dealt 
 death among the p.arty as it proceeded. The 
 seuuts had previously removed tlie canoes and 
 provisions which the Irofjuois had left in the 
 woods, .and so they ni,-irehed, dyiiig by the 
 hand of an unseen foe, ami threatened with 
 famine ere they could reach their own counirv. 
 At length they re.iehed the o[)en woods, near 
 
RIMOrSk'f. 
 
 •9 
 
 Trois Pistnlcs Kivcr, feeble and disiouratjeil. 
 The band had shrunk to twenty-seven men. 
 Findinjf traees of moose they bej,(an a luint, 
 and were led into an ambusli by the foe, who 
 burst upon them and killed all but six. These 
 were made prisoners; one was tortured by the 
 alli'S in the presence of the other five. The 
 latter were then divided, and the Malieite.'; 
 carried their three to Madawaska. The Mir- 
 niacs returned to Die with their two, and tying 
 them with their faces to the islanil. put them 
 to death with t>elr most ingenious torments, 
 rhey then (luitteil 15ic forever. Tra(Jition has 
 peopled the neij^hborhood with the ghosts of 
 the slaughtered Miemaes, now dancing on the 
 w.iters, nf)w moaning among the crevices of 
 the rocks, shrieking at times as wit'.i the agony 
 of souls in pain. 
 
 llattee Hay is another delightful spot, not 
 far from I'lic. The scenery, tiiough not so 
 impressive as tl'at of the latter place, is very 
 attractive. One of the features is a natural 
 terrace, and the facilities for al! kinds of exer- 
 cise and recreation are abundr.nt. ,\ number 
 I if English families reside at this place, and it 
 h.is many admiring visitors during the sum- 
 mer season, 
 
 R I M (> \ ' S K I . 
 
 I^veryone has heard of Rimouski. in connec- 
 tion with the arri\.d ajul departure of the ocean 
 steamers. Here they call on their way out to 
 receive malls and jnissengers, and on their way 
 in to land them. A branch of the railway 
 runs down to the lauding jilace, at the end of 
 .t pier nearly a mile long, and a steamer is em- 
 ployed as a tender for the service. Lively 
 work it is, sometimes, to get on board the out- 
 w.ard-bound steamer when tlie we.ither is a 
 little rfiugh. F.\ery<ine gets aboard safelv, 
 however, and r;i;.lu-r lik.:-> his experieni e after 
 it is over. 
 
 Rimouski is no common-place village, but a 
 town of sometlnng under 2,cxx> inhabitants. 
 It is the shire-town of the county and the seat 
 of the Bishop of the Diocese. Lawyers and 
 'lergymen are alike mmierous ; business of all 
 kinds is earned on briskly ; and there is a gen- 
 eral appe.irance of thrift on every hand. Smne 
 "f the biiildmgs make a tine appi-aranie, nota- 
 bly those devoted to religious uses. The 
 Caihedral is a noble structure, while the 
 ISishop's palace, convents, etc.. are of a char- 
 acter in keeping with it. The .Seminarv. a tine 
 structure, was, with much of value eont.iuud 
 m It, destroyed by lire in April, iSSr, 'I"he 
 lOss, about Sioo.CKX), has been largely made up 
 by friends of education in various parts of the 
 
 ])iii\ince, and imotlur line building will adorn 
 the site of the former one. The town, the full 
 name of wliiih is .St. Ciermain de Rimouski, is 
 thoroughly I'rench in its characteristics, and 
 though English is understood at the hotels, 
 there are jilenty of places of business where it 
 is not. A stranger \\ 11 have nn tiouble in gi't- 
 ting along, hnwever, and will tiiul the place and 
 the people ei[ually agreeable. Fishing cm be 
 indulged in with good success. The Rimouski 
 River is one of the noted .salmon streams, and 
 has, of course, any ((uantity of trout. The 
 scenery is fine all along the b.mks, ip to ihe 
 Like from which it tlows, close to :he New 
 ISrunswick boundary. En mi this lake only a 
 short portage is necessary to reach the (.]u;it- 
 awamkedgwick, which empties into the Resti- 
 gouehc. In the woods back of Rimouski, sport 
 cf all kinds aw.iits the hunt -r. Caribou are 
 abundant and both gun and rud can be kept 
 busy Jor weeks during the proper se.isons. 
 .Speaking of fishing, a prominent gentleman 
 informed the writer that at Seven Lakes, about 
 35 miles from the town, Uiree men caught 
 forty thousand trout in three days. As a man 
 can tish, at most, for about fifteen hours a day, 
 this made the remarkable aveiage of neari^' a 
 thousaiui an hour. (~)n an opinion being ex- 
 pressed that the catch was ,in unusually good 
 one, and the best rod-tishing on re<-ord, the 
 gentlemrin took a second thought and remem- 
 bered that it was for:y dozen, instead of thou- 
 sands ; this, though less marvelous, w.is not a 
 bad exhibit either, and spoke well for the lish- 
 ing of Rimouski. Salt-water fishing, boating 
 and b.ithing may be h.id on the .St. Lawrence, 
 the shore being protected from the 'ouiside 
 swells by the inland of St. B;irnabe. which lies 
 opposite ihe town. This island has borne its 
 n;mie since e.arly in the se\enteenth century. 
 It is about two miles long, cont.iins a smaU 
 lake, is well wooded, and is a faxcirite resort 
 for picnic p.irties. It has its story, and Mon- 
 seigneur Guay. now cure at Saere Cceur, li.'is 
 prcser\x'(l its details in his Cii>'-'ii/r/iic /ft' AV- 
 iiioiiski. An outliiie, with .iduitions glean d 
 from other sdurees, will sutlice here. 
 
 The fair Land of Old F'r.incc held im hearts 
 more lining th:m were those of Tnu.ssaint 
 Cartier and his betnAlied Louise when the 
 new ye.ar of 17:13 dawned. Jusi; turned of 
 manhooi.l, handsomi; in person. \r rscd in knovsl- 
 edge of books ;iiul agneaiile in manners, he 
 wa> the ens y of the lads (jf his native village. 
 He h.'ul long known the be.uitiful Louise, and 
 tliey had learned to love each other with a love 
 surpassing the power of words to tell. .She 
 was the daughter of <a rich father, who had 
 
 11 
 ' I 
 
/.v/7:a'(:o/.i>.\7.i/. r.ulw ,n' or r,L\.i/>.]. 
 
 pledged her at an early ajjf to the protliijate 
 son of his rii'liest neighbor. Toussaint was 
 poor, and his pow.rty bi-i.anie a (.-rinit: in the 
 sight of ihi iiirre-loving old father ni the lo\e- 
 lisping Louise. The loxcrs had three courses 
 open to theni to oven onu- the dil'lK'nliy. < )ne 
 was to t)reak the iiigai,'enient and retnrn all 
 tetters, rings and j^iotographs. 'I'liis would 
 have been dutiful on the part of Ldiiiso, but 
 :die failed to see it in that li,,4ht. Another 
 i:ourse was to engage the serviees of some 
 popular assassin and bribe .a (.-oruner's jury t(j 
 bring in a verdict of death liy the \isitaiion of 
 Providence; and (he third was to get secretly 
 married and go west. The latter course was 
 adopted. ;ind the happy imiple embarked for 
 (Quebec. All went well. They reached the 
 St. Lawrence and lay becalmed off Kimouski. 
 The day w.is tine and young Cartier took a 
 boat to visit lie St. IJarnabe. While he was 
 ishore ,'i fearful tempest arose, and the vessel 
 ,ind all on board were engulfeil before his eyes. 
 Ttie l)ody of Louise was soon after washed 
 ashore on the island, where Toi'ssainf buried 
 it and made a si.lenui vrnv to live mi the 
 lonely isle for I he remanider of his d.iys. 'I'his 
 vow he f;iithfully observed, living a life of dce|) 
 religious devotion, year after year, until his 
 locks were s'.hered with age. All wlio knew 
 him revered him, even the birds loved liim and 
 came to feed out of his hand : but liis heart 
 was broken, and he watched year by year pass 
 by. counting each only as a step nearer to his 
 reunion with the one of whose smile through 
 life he ha'l been so rudely deprived. Forty 
 odd seasons passed, and at length, one Janu- 
 ary morning, he was found lying dead on the 
 (locjr of his humble abode. The lovers wer<.- 
 united at last. His remains were buried within 
 the old church of Kimouski, .and to this day 
 his name is honored as th.it of ,u-, holy man. 
 
 There .are other versions of the story. .Some 
 of tliem omit all reference to the \<.'.:\: affair, 
 and make it appear tliat he arrived on foot and 
 came by the way of Metapvdiac. The fore- 
 going is the ]5rettiest, however, and ought to 
 be true, ^vhelher it is or not. 
 
 Si.x mi'es below Kimouski is F.ither Point, 
 so well known as a telegraph ;ind signal sta- 
 tion in r()iinecti<jn with ocean steamers, and 
 to it there is a eharming dri\e along the shore. 
 Four miles above the town is the \illage of 
 Sacre Cceur, where tliure is a beautiful .and 
 well sheltered beach and admirable opportuni- 
 ties for boating and se.a bathing. 
 
 Soon after leaving kimouski the St. Law- 
 rence is lost sight of. and the road makes its 
 way tow.ard the .Mci.apedia X'.iUey. St. I'l.ivif. 
 
 eighteen miles from Kimouski, is a place of 
 some importance, and is the terminus of the 
 well known highw.iy, the Kempt Ko.id, built 
 at a heavy e.xpensc and so long used for a 
 mail route between the upper .md lower prov- 
 inces. Here we begin to take leave of tlie 
 land of the French pure and sim])le, and enter 
 a country where English is spoken to a greater 
 extent. In the midst of the woods is Little 
 Metis Station, not a ])lace over which one 
 could grow ent'nisiastic, but nevertheless lead- 
 ing by ,1 road of about six miles t(j the beauti- 
 ful watering-place of 
 
 L ITT LP: .mi: TIS. 
 
 Three scon' and ten ycirs .ai;o tlu- .Seigneur 
 of Metis was a Mr. McNider, whose name has 
 such a genuine Caledonian ring that no one 
 ■.V ill imagine that he was .n P'renchman. 
 W.irmly .attached to the place, and fully im- 
 l)ressed with its bciuties, there was yet one 
 defect which grieved his heart. Nature had 
 neither located Metis in .Scotland nor sent the 
 Scotch to Metis. This want he determined to 
 siip[)ly, and the result was the arrival of sev- 
 eral hundrefl men, women and children from 
 OKI .Si'oti.i. These were located in various 
 p.uts of the Seigneur}', and aided by Mr. 
 McNider until their farms became adequate to 
 supply their wants. Since then they have 
 prospereti, and Metis is a flourishing farming 
 district. What is more to the purpose of the 
 tourist, it is one of the most pleasant places 
 on the shore for those who are seeking to 
 enjoy the summer months. Numbers have 
 already found out its beauties, but there is 
 room for many more. 
 
 Little Metis is situated .along the shore of 
 the .St. Lawrence, at a point where the estuary 
 begins to widen out so that the opposite shore 
 is .1 faint line in the distance and much of the 
 horizon is as level as upon the ocean. This 
 gives the place more of the air of a sea-side 
 resort than many less favored watering-places, 
 and the salt waves rolling in upon the s.mdy 
 beach contlrm the impression. 'Phis beach is 
 about four miles long, h.ird, smooth and s.afe 
 for bathers. On some ]iarts of it the surf 
 be. Its with .a sullen roar, yet numerous coves, 
 sheltered from the swell, aflord every security, 
 as well as absolute privacy, to the bather. 
 Boats, of all sizes, from a skiff to a schooner, 
 are available to the visitor, and if one desires 
 to run across to the other shore he will find 
 safe and swift vessels cro.ssing everyday. If 
 a party desire to have a good time and feel 
 free and indepeiident, they can charter a small 
 schoom-r for about $, a day, secure a good 
 
LITTLE METIS. 
 
 21 
 
 ;i, is a pi, in; of 
 icrmimis of the 
 inpt Kiiad, built, 
 iDiig usfil for a 
 ami lower prov- 
 ke leave of llie 
 imple, aii'i enter 
 )ken to a greater 
 woods is f.irtle 
 )ver whii li one 
 ■'verthelcss leatt- 
 es to the beauti- 
 
 •fs. 
 
 ij;o the Seit;iieur 
 
 whose iianie has 
 
 nju;- that no one 
 
 a l'"ri nehman. 
 
 e, and fully im- 
 
 re was yet one 
 
 rt. Nature had 
 
 md nor sent the 
 
 le determined 'o 
 
 e arrival of sev- 
 
 d children from 
 
 atid in various 
 
 aided by Mr. 
 
 line adequate to 
 
 then they have 
 
 rishini^ farniinjj 
 
 purpose of tlie 
 
 pleasant places 
 
 are seeking;' to 
 
 Xumbers have 
 
 s, but there is 
 
 \<g the shore of 
 'xe the estuary 
 ipposite shore 
 1 nnuh of the 
 ocean. 'I'his 
 of a sea-side 
 aierinsT-piaees. 
 pon the sandy 
 '\\\\s beach is 
 "ith and safe 
 .1 it llie surf 
 inierous coves, 
 e\"ery security, 
 o the bather, 
 lo a schooner, 
 if (;ne desires 
 re he will hnd 
 every day. If 
 time and feel 
 hafter a small 
 secure a good 
 
 sailins? master, lay in a supply of provisions, ' have thorougli enjoyment. On Simday those 
 and yo where they please. The St. L.awrence who l.^eline to the Presbyterian or Methodist 
 is between thirty and forty miles wide in th's f.nth can alcend places of worship of those 
 
 oart, so there is plenty of room 
 lor excursionists at all times. 
 
 ,'1 — On shore, i'l 
 
 addition to th( 
 bathin;,^, the ,-it- 
 
 tr.actions are abund.iiit. First of all there 
 "lie good hotels. Astle's will accommodate 
 .ibout two hundred, Turiffs about half th.it 
 numlier .and the \'ietoria has room for forty. 
 I'loard is very reasonable, averaging .ibout a 
 vi.jllar a day. If one prefer a private boiirding 
 house, ^frs. Boyd, Featherston, and others, can 
 lurnish good accommodation for about five 
 Jollars a week. Hesides these, nearly every 
 f:irnier has a spare house which can be hiretl 
 lor about 86o for the season, including water 
 .md fuel. Where families want to liave a gO(xl 
 lime, free from restraint, the latter course is the 
 nest one. The weirs furnish a plentiful supply 
 
 f fresh fish, while other provisions, including 
 I'erries of all kinds and dairy products are to 
 he h.id in abundance. A number of residents 
 
 1 ^h>ntreal and other places have villas here. 
 Among them are Principal Daw.son, of McGil! 
 College, Profs. Murray and Dorey, Dr. Tren- 
 liolm, Mr. Jclm Savage and Mrs. Redpath 
 ' )ne can live as quietly as he pleases here and 
 
 f.-nth 
 
 denominations, and during the 
 season Epi.scopal service is .also 
 hel 
 
 ^ The Little .Metis River is a 
 'favorite haunt of the .salmon, 
 which is loimil there in 
 large numbers. Trout are 
 founrl wherever there is a 
 ike or a brook. The best 
 lishing is at .Metis L.ike.s, 
 the nearest of which is 
 about three miles from 
 le centre of the vill.ige. 
 Further b.u'k is a chain of 
 .'ikes, all containing i)lenty 
 of large trout, and .all com- 
 paratively easy of .iccess. 
 
 The country in the rear 
 "f .Metis Vy a favorite re- 
 son for herds of caribou. 
 ( k-ese, duck and sea-fowl 
 are found all along the 
 shore, while partridge are 
 met with in every part of 
 le woods. 
 The scenery is varied 
 a';d attractive.' (.)iie may 
 drive for m'les .along the 
 ^liore and enjoy the ])ano- 
 r.ima and th'/ sc breeze 
 intil weary. Inland, are 
 ')e,-iutiful vales with nooks 
 .iiiid brooks and charming 
 All the farmers have wagons 
 to hire, and drives ni.ty be had at a small ex- 
 pense. One of the favorite drives is to the falls. 
 seven miles away. Here a heavy body of water 
 poin's o\er the rocks with a grandeur which 
 must be seen to be appreciated. Both drand 
 and Petit Metis rivers have waterf.iils. situated 
 amid most enchanting scenes of the forest. 
 
 Last year between Socj and i.oo) tourists 
 visited Little Metis during the season. Knough 
 lo show thfit the place has attractions, but not 
 so m.iny as to overcrowd, or to impose the 
 restr.iint incident to older and more fashionable 
 resorts. 
 
 Further along the shore is M.atau' . chiefly 
 renowned for the abundance of salmon and 
 trout in the ri\er. This also is in favor as a 
 summer resort, and? like Metis, is a port of call 
 for the steamers between ' hiebco and the Gulf 
 Corts. 
 
 Leaving Metis, we leave the St. Lawrence 
 behind us and journey .south to the Mctapediac 
 
 bits of scenery. 
 
32 
 
 INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY OF CANADA. 
 
 N'allcy. I'assinc: TartiiKiic, the railway which 
 has kept out of tlu' way of the mountain rani^'es 
 '.-y huxvjin.vf lh<* siiorc for two huiuiri'd iniics. 
 niai<es a hold push and crosses the liills at 
 M.'lfait Lake. Here the tourist is nearly 750 
 feet above the sea, hi.i,dier than he has been 
 since he left (hiehec, and liij,dier than lie can 
 be on any vlher i>;ut nf the line. Down the 
 jjrade the cars j^o, until ajjain on the level in 
 the midst of a beautiful valley, where the hills 
 rise on each side six and eii^ht huntirrd feet 
 for a distance of many miles. The French 
 villa,i,'es are no Ioniser seen ; the F'rench names 
 are no lonsjer heard. In the place of the latter 
 come the names bestowed by the Indians who 
 once peopled the land. Some of these names 
 are musical, after yr)u get used to them. No 
 doubt they were musical to Al.ifoiiquin ears 
 when utlercil by Ali;on(|uin tongues ; but the 
 true pronunciation <if ni.'iny of them is lost, 
 and as the Indians had no writicn lanj^ua^e 
 there is no rule as to how they shmild be spelleil. 
 Some of tlu ni are believed to have had poetical 
 meanin;..js, but there is a jrood deal more fancy 
 than fact in many of the interpretations. It is 
 just as well, linwe\er, to attach some poetry '.o 
 them in the Metapedia--. for all the surroun(hngs 
 are of a poetical nature, b is supposed to have 
 been somewhere in tiiis vicinitv that the first 
 and last of the A!)original Spring I'oets ven- 
 tured to warble, and was put to ile.ith, with 
 hornlile t.irtures, as a warning to Sprin^T Poets 
 (or all time to come. His effusion is bel'eved 
 to have consistet! of a hundred and si.xi.cen 
 stanz.'is. He di-sired his Chief's opinifin as to 
 their fitness for publication. The criticism 
 was pr(;mpily given, for when the jwct h.id 
 reached the end of the tiflh stan/a he w;'s 
 gagged, tried and condemned to the staki . 
 Tratlition s;iys the verse.-, were : 
 
 UUK TO Sl'RING. 
 
 U.Ti!, .Melapciliac r Upon thy .shore 
 1 lie >outiiiuois may .-iweet sielu.iion seek; 
 Ca'laraqui (ii.-lracls \n< iliniights un iiuire, 
 Xor >ctks 111 iylcl from .'<oiile;uim:igaileek. 
 
 Il.^il Rcstijjoiiclie and calm CaiL-iapscal, 
 
 Tartague, 'l"ol)c-gole and Sayahec, 
 
 .\ni'.jiii, Wagan>-is, I'eske-Ammik — all 
 
 Tlie scenes wliich Nature doth with glory deck. 
 
 At Assameti-juai^han and a( Upsaii|uitcli 
 The hu.sy beaver builiis his little il.im; 
 His sisters, cousins and liis aunts giow rich 
 At Patapediac and Ob.stclii|u.asijuam. 
 
 I've wandered by the Quatawanik^dgwick, 
 The Ma(lawa-.l<a and the famed l.oostook. 
 
 I'he Temi.scouata, Kaniouraska, l!ic; 
 Pve dim A the hill of Wollodadaniook. 
 
 .\nd everywhere do thoughts of spring iiri.sc, 
 Till this .Mgonquin doili an ode produce. 
 Hail, broiher Maiesthites and .Mmakics! 
 Hail, balmy moiitli of Amuiswikiy.oo,'; ! 
 
 dachope and Kigicapigiok — 
 
 It was at this stage that the poet was gagged. 
 Like unto the swan, his song atid his death 
 swiftly followed each other. It was the t'lrst 
 and 1,-ist ai)pearancc of the Spring J'oet among 
 the Kcd Men. 
 
 MKT.\PL1)[.VL LAKE AND \'ALLr:^'. 
 
 Beyond Sayabec lies the beautiful sheet of 
 water called Lake Metapediac. It is the 
 noblest sheet of inland water seen along the 
 route. All lakes have a beauty which appeals 
 to the imaginative minds, but this enshrined 
 among the mountains must irnpress the most 
 prosaic nature. About si.xtcen miles in length, 
 and stretching out in parts to the width of t'lve 
 miles, its am[)!e area gives it a dignity with which 
 to wear its beauty. Einbosomed on its tranquil 
 waters lie isles rich in verdure, while shores 
 luxuriant with Nature's bounty make a fitting 
 fratne to so fair a picture. He who has to4d us 
 of Loch Katrine could sing of this lake that she : 
 
 •' In all her len;^th far winJinu' lay. 
 With promontory, creek and bay. 
 And islands th.at, empurpled bright, 
 Floateil amid l!ie lovelier light; 
 And mountains that like giants stand 
 To .<eiuincl enchanted land. " 
 
 rpon this lake tlie canoe may glide amid 
 scones which can wake the artist's soul to 
 ecstasy. Here, too. may the sportsman never 
 ply his craft in vain. These dear \satcrs are 
 the home "t tb.e salmon, and kings among the 
 lishcs await the angler's pleasure. The trout 
 ruid the salmon are of a size and flavor wh.ich 
 will charm alike the eye and the taste. They 
 are simply majestic-- 
 
 Noiie know tliein but to love liiem, 
 Nor name them but to prai>e. 
 
 The outlet of the lake is the famed Metape- 
 diac River. It is usually .sp-elled without the 
 final "c," and some use an "a" instead of the 
 first "e." It is a matter of taste, but it is 
 liighly probable no one of the three is like the 
 origitial Iiifhan word. Cascapedinc, for in- 
 stance, is a corruption of Kigic.ipigiak, and 
 probably the original of Metapediac is some- 
 thing even worse. It is just as well not to be 
 
lide amid 
 soul lo 
 an never 
 ,itt rs are 
 long; llie 
 'he trtiuL 
 or wl'.irh 
 They 
 
 .Metape- 
 thoiit tile 
 v\ iif the 
 
 \-'.n it is 
 
 like tlie 
 lur in- 
 L^iak, and 
 
 is some- 
 not to be 
 
 SffihrnXd AXn FlSlf/XG. 
 
 23 
 
 too particular, for the corruption of Indian 
 words is ji^eneraily an improvement so far as 
 r-'lates to the case of ])ronunciation by the 
 tunjiues of white men. The name is said to 
 denote Musical Waters, and the title is well 
 deserved. Throuj,di the ,)^reen valley it winds 
 in vfraeeful curves, sini^injj the music of the 
 waters as it runs. It has 222 rapids, vjreat and 
 small, now swift and deep, now .gently ripplinj^ 
 over beds of shining i^ravel and golden sand. 
 Here and there are the deeper ]K)o1s in which 
 I'.irk salmon of astomulim^ size, for this is one 
 of the salmon rivers ni which every fisherman 
 has heard. For mile after mile the traveller 
 watches the course of the river, so stran;.^ely 
 pent in by t!ie mountains on either haml, risinjj 
 111)111 si.\ to eivjht hundred feet in every shape 
 which mountains can .assume. .Some are 
 alnio'^t jierfect cones; otliers i-ise swiftly into 
 preripici.'s; and others Iiave sucli gentle slopes 
 that one feels th.it he would like U) stroll 
 
 far removed from the jiatl^ of ttavcllers, save 
 those whose necessities obliy;ed iheni to trav- 
 erse the military road to .St. Klavie. 'fhe 
 Iniildin.ij of the railway has opened it Id the 
 world, and thousands are now familiar with it 
 wher(; huiuireils had heard of it ui otiier years. 
 It is a I'ountry which has attractions for all. 
 Those who seek the beautiful in Naturi' m.iy 
 here find it, while those v\tio .are disciples of 
 Nimrod or Wahon may here find the d.iys 
 only too short, and the wcks p.-issinij aw.'iy all 
 too swifllv. 
 
 Til 
 
 , lloo 11 \(i AND ri.SHI NG. 
 
 MILL STRKAM MinArKDI.\ 
 
 leisurely upward to the summit. Ir. souic 
 jilaces, the river, the hij.,diway, and the railway. 
 
 crowd e.ach other for a passae^e between the 
 foot of the hills, so narrow is the vallev. All 
 
 \in\ can stand on the railway tra.'k and shoot 
 partrid'.;es in this valley, .and by ,v;oini; twcj miles 
 into the forest you can shoot caribou. As was 
 previously mentioned, vast tiuantiiies of moose 
 oni:e roameil here, ind soim; are still left ; but 
 the carilxju must contciit the huiiter as rej^ards 
 lari.;e .i;anie, unless, indeed, he have the kick to 
 
 meet a bear 
 or two. ]iy 
 c 1 i m b i n ij 
 the moun- 
 tains, plen- 
 ty of t,ranie 
 of all kinds 
 is found in 
 the forests, 
 which cover 
 a large area 
 of c"ountrv. 
 The Meta- 
 pediac has 
 s e \' e _r a 1 
 other .salm- 
 on rivers tlowing into it. The Crmsapscal is one 
 of the^e, and it was where the streams join 
 )uise landed the forty pound 
 ir two .ago. Koyal lish are 
 
 ih.'d the Princess 
 s.dnion, a vear 
 
 kmds of foliage, and all shades of Nature's I these salmon, and fit sport for royalty. Take 
 
 any part of the Metapediac in the latter ji.-irt 
 of June or the e.irly [lart of July, when, as a 
 rule, the fisli are most abundant, and there is 
 fishing enough to keep a good sized crowd 
 [/retty busy. The Americans li.ive found out 
 tb.e advantages of the country, and a club of 
 wealthy New-\'orke:s now own a club-house 
 and hold a fishing lease on the Metafiediac. 
 Their house is at the jun^'tion of the river with 
 the Restigouchtj, the place formerly so well 
 known as " Dan Fraser's," 
 
 For early salmon fishing, the Metapediac and 
 
 tcilors are upon the hillsides; :m.i in the 
 autunin when the grand tr.insformation of hues 
 takes place the effect is magnificent beyond 
 (lesiription. Along the river, grassy hank-^ 
 licrc and there await the angler's feet to pres;; 
 liie turf in joyful li.aste, as the lordly fish leap 
 from tile waters to seize liis hook. Ikauty is 
 everywhere; here all the charms of retirement 
 can be found, amid a Northern Par.adise. 
 Switzerland lives in tniniature amid the moun- 
 tains; Kngland and Scotland are arounii the 
 lakes, streams and springy heather. F^veryone 
 
 praises Metapediac ; many grow gushing over | its tributaries have an especially good name. 
 Its beauties; no one jiresumes to suggest that but at no time during the season is the fishing 
 
 it could ha\e been better than it is. 
 
 For year after year this glorious country was 
 
 poor. 'J'l'i.' M'eta[)ediae trout are as large .is 
 some fish which pass for salmon in other coun- 
 
fx / /'.Nivr.oxf.u. A:i/Air I]' or (-ixi/ki. 
 
 trit's, and mie of tlinn is a •■ sqiiarc iikmI" of 
 itself. Wliere forty aiul fifty pumul salmon 
 exist, seven' pdund irmit ari' mcrily m prnpnr- 
 tinii, as they slioiilii In-. Ai A>''aii)t.'t(|iia.i;lMii 
 (a plaie more beautiful than its namei, at 
 McKiiinou lir()(ii<, and at Mil! Stream, will 
 be, found partiiularly jrood trout I'lshinj,'. A 
 party of two men has j>(une out tif an after- 
 noon and remained unli! noon the next da}', 
 secnriuij nearis' ^50 pounds of trout, i;ach trout 
 averai;iim' four poimds in \\cij,'hl, Imi many 
 runnnn; a> iiixh as sevet\ pounds. 
 
 Mr. i'ra\er fornicriy l<e|)t an cxcfUeni hotel 
 at Metapediac Station, where the house of tho 
 '• Uesti^;oueht: Salmon Club" stan<ls. After 
 dispnsni;4 of the latter plaee, he erected a new 
 hotel, ,-ibout (jne mile further down the river, 
 and elose to tlic line of railway, lie has a 
 number ol e.'aellent salmon jxjols near this 
 hotel, and from his knowled.tje of the river he 
 is also a v.iluablc man for fishermen 10 meet 
 with. 
 
 The last of the Metapediae is seen at the 
 villaijc whieh bears the name of tiie ri\'er. at 
 the junction with the- Resti.i,'ou>he. It is ;i 
 place of siniful.-ir beauty, and the eye linj^ers 
 lovingly on the beautiful panorama as it 
 passes frt.tn the view and th.e ir.-iin ruslies 
 onward to the boundary of New Brunswick. 
 Here we c.itch sijjht of the, river Restigouche., 
 spanned by a beautiful r.'iilway bridg-, over a 
 thousand fec>t in Ieni;lh. A few miles beyond, 
 the tr.iin passes through the tunnel on .Morris- 
 sey's Rock, on the side of I'rospect Moiuitain. 
 This is the only lunael through which train- 
 pass, though, hidden fr nu the eye of the ordi- 
 nary traveller, are a lumber of others by 
 which rivers have been diverted in the work 
 of construiUion. ']"ticre are, howe\er, miles 
 of snow-sheds, which anAer all the pur[)oses 
 of tunnels, so far as linked darkness, long 
 drawn out, is conrerued. 
 
 At the Mead of the Tide a bright picture 
 meets the eye. Che river is thickly doited 
 with low-lying islands, rich with meadow land, 
 th.cir hues of green lontra.^ting linely with the 
 siher surface of the river. I p. truth, this part 
 of the road is a succession of iiright pictures 
 ^^a panorama, wiurein arc showii some of 
 Nature's fairest scenes. 
 
 C \ MI'DKLl. TON. 
 
 W c are in New I'runswick. and pretty near 
 what might have answered for a jumping-off 
 place in old times. .\"ow-a-days the resident? 
 repel such an insinuation, and jjoint with pride 
 to the presetit prosperity of the village (but 
 
 don't c.ill it tliatl),and to its .rpeat possibilities 
 in the future. Well. C.im[)bellton !ias great 
 p(jssibilities, and it h.is probabilities as well. 
 It is no longer g.iy or sad as lumbci is high 
 or low, and ii lives in airy independence' of 
 the hoisting or shutting-down of the s.iw- 
 mills. It is jmprovmg every yt;ar. liy and 
 bv it will be very much improved, and will- 
 be one uf the inost popul.ir resorts on the 
 railwav. 
 
 What are its pos.sibiliti 
 
 es.-- 
 
 In tl 
 
 le tirst 
 
 place, its sitiKitii n i'^ a convenient as well as a 
 very cluirming one. Convenient, because it is 
 central upon \.\w. line of the Inten oloni.d — 
 neither too far south for the ])eople who are 
 above it, nor too far north for those who 
 are below. It i-^ 31 4 miles from ('ueliec. ^72 
 from Halifax, .ami ^74 from St. John. It 
 is convenient, too, because it lies in the 
 midst of one of the tinest regions for sport 
 on the continent. The Restigouclie and 
 Metapediae, with their iributarics, ,aflord 
 oul}' ;i part of the splendiil fishing to be 
 had, while the lanil to the west and the 
 north contains all manner of game to entice 
 the sportsman to its forests. It is convenient 
 if you wish to visit the famous Land of 
 Ciaspe, for from it a steamer runs twice a 
 Week and calls at grand .si)orting places on 
 the way. If one has a taste to visit .\nticosti. 
 he will find ji.ickets at (iaspe to take him 
 there, or shotild he desire to see tlie anaint 
 regions of the M,ig(l,i'i;n Islands, he can ertsily 
 get there front f'aspebiac. Besides, C.imp- 
 bcllton looks into the fair and famous Bale 
 (its Chaleurs, whicl; is of itself worth coining 
 from afar to sail upon : and. finally, it is con- 
 venient as a cool, but not cold, watcring-pl.ice 
 with every f.icility for salt-water bathing, salt- 
 water fishing and a good time generally. The 
 situation is bcautifiTl, because Campbellton lies 
 at a [loint where a broail aiul beautiful river 
 unites with the waters of a bay which h.is 
 no ri\al in Canatla. Beautiful, because the 
 mountains rise near and far, their cones point- 
 ing heaveiiwartl with a gr.indeur not to be tle- 
 -scribcd, while the varying shades are blendetl 
 witli a harmony which all may admire, but 
 which can be appreci,ued only by the artist. 
 Yes, Campbellton is well situated, and when 
 it has a St. Lawrence LLall. like that at Caco- 
 una, it will be a place which no one can afford 
 to miss. 
 
 One of the tinest views to be had is from 
 the top of llie Sugar Loaf, a mountain about 
 a mile unci a half above the tow-n. Do not 
 he alarmed wiien the |:>enple tell you that the 
 suDiniit is nearly a thousand feet high. The 
 
is from 
 U! .vbou! 
 
 Do not 
 thai the 
 fii. The 
 
 I 
 
 
 i>- 
 
2r, 
 
 IXTKh'f 'OI.OX/AL A\l/J U'.l V Ul' C.IX. l/'l. 
 
 iliiiil) is lint so mill li iH th.it. 'I'lii' hixliest I 
 lueasmTimiii it »'VtT Vs'^t wrts by the rrllfctinv; i 
 tircli; (if Sir llowanl D<)u.{las, wliiili ^iw^ 
 .S44. l.at'.T anil bcttiT >iutlii.iity innkes it 730 j 
 fcft. Th.'it is hi]L;li fii()iij;h to ;^ivT yoii a 
 inaxiiirK'fMt view, and as tin; luouiiUiiii side 
 is prcripitotis vnii will be i|iiiie .is tired as if 
 you Wfiit up a tlioiisaiid feet on any ordinary ; 
 iiu)iiiitaiii. After you jjct up, Imik to the 1 
 iiortli ami the ^raiid old iiioiintainM of t iaspt' j 
 are before you; to the south is a sniiiin,i{ 
 country rieh in vej;etation; while to the south- ! 
 ward and eastward lie the Rcstiyiouehe am 
 the r.aie des C'laleiirs, with Dalhousie and 
 the other llourisliiitif plates of th( Nonli. The 
 seenery has been railed superior to 
 that of the Sus(iuelianna. Whether 
 it is nr not eaii be best jud,;(cd by 
 tiiose wlin have seen both places. 
 Another l"ine \.i\v is to be had from 
 the top of Morrissey": l.'ock — in 
 fact, there are line views everywhere, 
 and no toll-vjaies on the roads to 
 them. 
 
 Keferenee h.is ilrcatiy b-eii m.iU 
 to the sailimj an<l bathii\i:(. lioili 
 limy be enjoyed to any desinil ex- 
 tent. The fame of the U(-stiv:;ouehe 
 salniiip. ;ind trout speaks as to tlie 
 lishmiij at L'ampbeiiton and in its 
 \ieinity. Ii was a Rest 'i.{ouehe salmon 
 that tipped the -^la'.e .it tifty-four 
 pounds, and r.umbers have been 
 eau,t;lit which were of the respectable 
 \vcij;ht of forty-eii;hl pounds each. 
 Salmon lishini.{ eommeiu-es .iboiit the 
 middle of May. and all the rivers 
 abound with these j^Teat .md ,i;lorious 
 tish. 
 
 I'ishinjij for the abnormally luxe 
 trout alreaily mentioned is h.id 
 both in summer and winter. It is usual 
 to 'ommence tishintj tliroujirh the ice 
 about tlie first of March. After the 
 river is clear of ice, early 111 May, plenty 
 of live .iiid se\en pound trout can be 
 cauglu in the tide with b lit. l-Yoin tlie mid- 
 dle of May until July thfv will take either i1y 
 or bait, but for good iiy-tishinjj take the 
 month of July. Here are some of the favor- 
 ite haunts ; The Escuniinae, 1 5 miles dis- 
 tant; little Nouvelle, 22: Little Ca.seapedia, 
 about 45 or 50. by steamer; I'arker Lake. 3; 
 fie.id of Tide, 5: and Mission i^ake, 3 miles 
 from Cross I'oini on tlie opposite side of the 
 river, luiides are easily obtained and are re- 
 liable men. Parties ,i<oini^ to Escuminac can 
 rind both accominodalioii and jjuides by soini; 
 
 to Daniel llruwn; ,iii(| those ,ii Nouvelle will 
 do e(|U.illy well to make the aci|ii.untaiii e of 
 Thomas l lare A xre.at deal of inforinatKni 
 may be had Irom Mr. ' >. A. Harbaric. st.'ition 
 master .at c.'amplKllton. an eiithusi;istii' t'lsh- 
 erinan and one of ilie best amateur lly-liers 
 in the ( ountry. 
 
 Some o| the bi st lishini; to he had Ih at 
 Cascapedi.i. It w.is here th.il an JMi^lisli 
 .\1. I'. Ml. I'.llis, liail unprecedented success 
 in i87^>. I'le p/irty of thn^e hookinif several 
 fhdiis.'tnd pounds. Mr 
 Litis spoke of the 
 scenery .it Cascipedi.i 
 as the finest he li;id 
 
 :-m 
 
 
 StMVK 1 >.\1- MolNIAlN NF.AR C WII'UM.I.TON. 
 
 ever seen, and it n fine. I'resident Arthur, 
 before he was put on the limits by virtue of 
 his exalted position, also ni.-ide Caseapedia his 
 favorite resort. ( irand Caseapedia is a favorite 
 resort of the Mce-Ktijal jjarty, the Ciovernor- 
 ( jeneral having; a fishing lodge on that river. 
 
 Hesi<les these places, the sp<jrtsman is near 
 ttfe Metapediac \'alley. and lias the Restigou- 
 che .'iiul all its many tributaries to atford him 
 recre;ition. 
 
 SliDOTI NC.. 
 
 A lime-linnored i)oem, the author of which 
 is unknown, used to say : 
 
 " Oh, were you ever in Kestigiuche, 
 Tu see the liijiiii shool-um goose," 
 
■////■; h'/>rh,(>f ■>///■: dai.iiousik. 
 
 Arthur, 
 Kiiuic of 
 lic'ilin Ills 
 
 ' r-(il ilr 
 
 [,\( 1 •\. ^X- 
 
 x\wv. 
 Ii is iifar 
 |fStii;i)U- 
 
 ord him 
 
 If vvliich 
 
 .will ihi- Winds .'ipply as will tn-ii.iv ;is ilicy 
 ilid tifiy yivirs .ij^u. Imlians, to the iiiimliiT 
 of alJDiit six hiiiKht'd, liavc a villa^t' oppiiMic 
 Campbcllton, and j;erse, du< k, and brant, hover 
 around the shores in llo<ks of thousands. Tliry 
 .I'c in their >;'"'■>■ "' ''"' f"" •>'"' spring;, but 
 when; tliere is ()|)en water sonn nf them tinht 
 It out on that line all winter. 
 
 I'artridKc anrl snipe shooting; is al.so a siic- 
 ( ess iti this locality. I'lovcrare fiuiiid at times, 
 but a strict ret(anl for truth cumpels the 
 ailini.ssion that a man who i^joes .ifttr them and 
 Willis nothing; eNe may be tlis.ippoitited. 
 
 Lariboii are abundant. The woods are full 
 of them, tijjiiratively siieakinij. A year or two 
 rij.;oonewascau.i;htattliefrei.;"ht house at Camp- 
 !)elltoii. and Mr. Thos, Clare, of Noiivelle, also 
 aiijirehended one which he found loal'mj; 
 .around hi> barn-yard. Moose ate .also to be 
 had by j,voiii>J back mho the woods, while a 
 l)l'..isintj variety is ijiveii by the occa'-ional 
 ippearence of a bear or loup-cervier. 
 
 riir: k is r ic.o; cm-:. 
 
 .Should one wish to visit an iiiealwilderneRs, 
 li I him ascend this j^reai river to its source, 
 home two hundred miles aw,i\. 
 
 'i'lie Kestitjouche is part of the northern 
 boundary of New hrunswick, and if it were 
 straight would reach quite across the l'rr)vince. 
 Nature, however, is not partial to straii(ht 
 lines, and so the Kesti>,'ouchc makes some 
 wild bends, at all kimis of an;L;les, from its 
 source to its mouth, li has been recorded by 
 some one, and believed by a great m.any, that 
 'lu' meanini^f ot Kestigouche is "river that 
 di\ides like a hand." 'I'lie latter, liinvever, is 
 believed to be the meaninjfof Upsalquilch, and 
 Kesti>^(.>uche me.ins Brtuid River, a name emi- 
 nently more in unity with the general fitness 
 of thinj;s. Some of the .Mni.akis used to call 
 this re.tjion I'apechii^unarh, the place of spring- ' 
 .imusemenls which hati no reference to .spriiVif- 
 ir.'ips, but may possibly have liorne upon the I 
 unlimited chances lor the shooting; of wild ; 
 .ijecse and ducks, lie its name what it m.iy, it I 
 is a noble river and is good for an unlimitefl i 
 amount of fishim; and liiintinjf- li-^ head- j 
 waters lie near Metis Lake in one direction ! 
 and Temiscouata in another, and for mm h of I 
 its length it flows tlirough the dense wilderness j 
 rarely trodden by the foot of man. The coun- I 
 trv drained by it and its tributaries is a land of 
 mountains and \ alleys — the furnier rising i 
 grandly two thousand feet towards the clouds; I 
 the latter having forests, in which solitude and \ 
 silence reign. In these regions there are lakes ! 
 
 where the lie.ivcr Ims no one to molest nor 
 make it afraiil; tli< re are x.iU'vs wlio.^e rock.i 
 have never echoed thf report of a gun; there 
 are miles upon milt^s which have never been 
 explored, anil where the creatures of the forest 
 roam as freely as they did a hundred years 
 ago. One can retire into the heart of .New 
 nrunswick and re.ach rivers which lead to .ill 
 points, such as the Tobiquc md St. John, 
 Nepisiguit. Miramichi .and others ot lessor 
 note, .as well as rivers which run to the St, 
 Lawrenee. 
 
 Asicnding the Restigmu he, the first obiect 
 of interesi is I'oint liourdo, where (jiicc stood 
 the I'rench village of Petit Uochellc, destroyed 
 by Cijitain Hyroii in 17*10. l"our French ves- 
 sels of war had t;ik<'n shelter in the river .md 
 were followed by Byron's llect and destroyed. 
 The inhaliit.ants of the village iled to the 
 woods, their houses were laid in ruins and the 
 fortilicatioiis destroyed. .Many rclirs of the 
 engagement have been found and preserved, 
 and a few years ago th.' hulls of some of the 
 sunken \'essels could be seen at low water 
 
 .Some si.\ or seven miles after jiassing the 
 mouth t)f the Meiapediac, the L'psalquitt h is 
 le.'tched, being the tirsi tributary on the New 
 Hrunswii k si<lc. lly ascending iiiis, the head- 
 waters of thi- Ne|>isiguit .and Toliique a.''c 
 reached. About 39 miles further is tlu' J'a- 
 t.ipediac, by which the Metis and other rivers 
 ma\' be found; then cones the (Xiatawani- 
 kedgwick. Some 21 miles further, leading to 
 the head-waters of the Riinouski. Hy fol- 
 lowing the Kestigouche into the Wag.cisis, 
 a portage of abmit three iiiiies will bring one 
 to (irand River, a tributary of the M. John. 
 The Temi.scouata and Scjuatook Lakes may 
 also be reached • indeed, the by-p;iths in the 
 wilderness are innumerable, tor streams run 
 in all directions. .All of any *izc are safe for 
 canoe navigation, and all abound with the 
 best of llsh. So .safe is tlv navigation, thai 
 even ladies, with proper escort, have ascended 
 the St. Jolin. crossed the n.arrow ridge Of 
 land aiul ilescended the Ristigouclie. They, 
 of course, did Dot e.<plore the wild i.ouritry 
 to be found by ascending the branches of 
 the latter river, the land of the hunter and 
 his game. 
 
 Returning to Campbellton, the traveller will 
 find fair hotels and (.heap living. For those 
 merely passing through, an excellent Dining- 
 Koom will be found at the station. 
 
 1 ) A L H I » i; S IF. . 
 
 This place is .1 few miles away from the 
 railway line, but it well worthy of a visit. It 
 
LA It.UI-. J>ES CJ/ALLUNS. 
 
 -'y 
 
 .'rr- I 
 
 
 has a commamliii^ p<><»lit(in on a liill ov 
 I.Mikmx ''"' """' '''■'* *-lialfurs, aii<l in this 
 ii»|)ect is even more altraclivc tlum <am|>- 
 bfllton In the vifitiity is ImUl ami >.tril<inif 
 s(i'n<T), ami there is a xrcat ileal nf natural 
 Ixniity t<j excite the adniiratioti of vistiturN. 
 riic harbor is an exi illent one. and jjivcn 
 every opportunity for recreation on, as well 
 an in, llie water of the l>ay. Djiilioiisie in 
 well situateil for a siiriiiner report. From 
 here. too. the distanec to the tishinR resort* 
 on the <)iiehe( -jhorc is but short, anil one ran 
 •TOSS whenever it is desirable to lio so, 
 
 l.eavinjjf I >allw>usi« . the railway sooti touches 
 ilie shore of 
 
 I. A l!.\l \: l»i:s ' II.M.i; IKS, 
 
 one uf the most biautiful havens in .\nierie;i. 
 Ninety miles lonji, .'ind fron\ liftein to twenty- 
 I'lve wide, there eannot be found in its waters 
 either rock or otlier iiinderanie to the .safe 
 piissage of the largest of ships. Jacc|ues Car- 
 ti'-r j^avr I III' n.iy iis present naioi' to inm- 
 niemorate ilu- j^ratefiil waitnili wliieh hi- there 
 felt iifter coming from the cold shores of 
 Newfoundland. The Indians called it Lek- 
 eluan Neniaaehi, or .Sea of Kish, a name far 
 more aiiprupriate thonyih less nuisieal than 
 iIkU which it now bears. '! he railway runs 
 close to its shore for many miles, and few 
 f.iirer siglits are to be seen than the bro.td ani, 
 beautiful expanse of water, with its numerous 
 Iiitle inlets on the New I'.runswick side and 
 the lofty and imposing mountains rising 
 ;<r;indly on the .shore uf (Hiebee. For miles, 
 too, the land around the tiay is settled, and 
 the green t'lclds of well-tilled f;irms add 
 ,uiother ch.'irm to the landscape, of a sum- 
 mer day. with a gentle breeze ri|)pliiig the 
 siiuioth surface of the water, the yachtsman 
 feels that he has at last found the object of 
 his dream. There is no finer yachting bay 
 on the .N'i'i'tii .All.inlic coast. 
 
 The waters of the bay abound witli net 
 fish, and there is, also, a tine chance for line 
 I'lshing. Catching mackerel is a favorite rec- 
 reation, the season lasting from early in Jviiy 
 until the last of .September, or later. The 
 tishers go out in small boats .md use lines 
 from ten to twenty feet in length. Fine 
 •hoi)i)eil herring are thrown overboard to 
 attract a "school," and soon one h.is work 
 i-nough 10 tend his lines and haul in the 
 mackerel as fast as i-aught. \\'here two lines 
 ■are used it is lively s|)ort, and a hundred 
 .m hour is a common catch. The C.ulf of 
 St. Lawrence mackerel ;ire large in size and 
 are usually in splendid condition. There is 
 
 another kind of mackerel fi«hinjf--that for 
 the huge and mly hirsc-niackerel. or tunny, 
 which is sontetimes a do/cn feet Imng. and 
 ha* Ix'cn known to .ittain tlie weight of h.df 
 a ton. The .s|)eiimcns caught here .»re 
 usually smaller than this and not hard to 
 man.tKe. A heavy chain and hook arc used, 
 the water is "baited," and when a bi^ hsh 
 takes the hook all there is to be done «. to 
 haul in tiw; i hiiin, and keip his he.id above 
 water until he can be speared in a vital part. 
 It is "as easy as rolling off a log" — after you 
 gel in the way of it. 
 
 All the rivers which How into the hay are 
 good fishing streams. Sc.i trout are found in 
 the estuaries, anil brook trout in the waters 
 above. They are not so large as those further 
 north, but arc of good size and flavor. The 
 sea trout weigh four and live pounds : the. 
 
 il to four pounds. 
 
 h.irjo have good 
 
 d salmon, ami 
 
 siiort is also had 
 
 others run from h.ilf 
 Both bninchcs of Kr 
 privilege!*, both for n 
 are not under le.ise. < < > 
 at the lakes. al)oiit foiii i, ;rom llie vill.age. 
 Another, and well known sir am. is the Jac 
 ipiet River, which is leased for salmon fishing. 
 July is a good time to commence to It/ok for 
 sport on it, while August ;uul September make 
 suspicion of this kind ;i certainty. The scenery 
 on the river is wildly grand, the naters run- 
 ning between precipitous rocks, ro.iring in 
 cascades . and foaming amid tlie boulders in 
 the rapids, (iuides are to be had at the vil- 
 l.igc. If one wishes to be unattended, he cm 
 go up by a good portage ro.id. and will llnd 
 excellent fishing as he goes. He is sure to 
 have it at Sunnyside, eight miles from the 
 station, or «it the I'ot Hole and Kettle Hole, 
 four miles higher up. The best plan is to 
 lish all along between the two places, and 
 one is sure to have good luck. .Another 
 choice place is at the first falls, twenty nuks 
 from the station, liclledune Lake, six miles 
 from the station, in another direction, also 
 has a good name for gamy trout, running 
 from a half to twu pounds in weight. 
 
 The shooting along the bay and in the 
 woods further inl.uul is of the same tine, 
 character as that mentioned in connection 
 with the Kestigouclie— du( ks and geese near 
 the water, and bear, caribou, moose, etc.. in 
 the forest. 
 
 There is one thing which the tourist may 
 hear of at [aciiuet River, or in its vicinity, 
 which may pu/.zle him. It Will puzzle him 
 still more if he sees it. It is the phantom 
 light of the Bale des Chaleurs. What it is, 
 no one seems to know; the people along the 
 
 r 
 
30 
 
 IXIERCOLOMAI. RAII.W AY OF CA.W-WA. 
 
 short- hilieve it to be soimthintf wliirti "is, 
 hut li.'idn'i ou),;iu to bf," anioiii,^ tlie inhabi- 
 tants ()( iliis world: strangers dismiss it by 
 the vtry ir.dctiiiiti; designation of " I'let trin- 
 ity." ll lias been seen at inncs for the last 
 thrce-(iuartors of a century, at least, and 
 people know no more about it now than 
 they e\-er <Ii(l. It tia-i appeared in vari'uis 
 parts of the bav. frr]ni above JaeqLiet Ri\er 
 down as far as Caraiiueltc, sonu'timos ap- 
 pearing lilco a ball of tire within a mile or 
 two on shore, and sometimes having the 
 appearance of a burning vessel many n.iles 
 away. Sometimes it shoots like a meteor; 
 at others it gli(ies aiong with a slow and 
 dignilied motion. Sometimes it seems to 
 rest upon the water; sometimes it mounts 
 rapidly in the air and descends again. U is 
 altogether mysterious and eccentric-. One 
 may watch for months and never see it. but 
 very many reliable p<'ople have seen it time 
 after time. It is usually followed by a storm, 
 and the nv'St singular part of the story is that 
 It has actually appeared above the ice in the 
 depth o. i.inter. There is, of iciurse, a tra- 
 dition thai just before the light apjieared for 
 the first time, a part of the crew of a wrecked 
 vessel were murdered by theii' eompa lions. 
 who appropriai.fi all the plunder they I'oiild 
 get. The piratical sailors were subsetjuently 
 lost during a storm, and immediately aiicr the 
 event the light began its vagrant existence. 
 Whatever be t!ie cause, the phenomenon is 
 there, tliough not always to be seen, for 
 "sometimes the spirits work, and sometimes 
 they don'i," It is one of the strange things 
 that come in with the tide. 
 
 i; A III r RST 
 
 is one of the best laid out towns in the Prov- 
 ince, thanks to Sir Howard J Jougl.vs. by whom 
 it was named and designed. Before his visit, 
 in 1S28, it had the aboriginal name ot Indian 
 Point, but Sir Howard duly christened it b\- 
 drinking the only bottle of wine in the place. 
 In those days there was no Iniercolonin!, .atid 
 no chance to procure supplies at sli'irt notice. 
 The aunoun.'ement of the proprised otficial 
 visit tilled the iiuhlic with dismay — Miere was 
 but one bottle of wine to be li.id for I'lve or 
 money. The reception cominitice were e<iuai 
 to the occasion. When the bani|uet was 
 spread, the wine was placed before Sir Howaiil 
 while the natives drank the tt)ast in water so 
 ingeniously colored that His E.xeellency never 
 knew the difference. 
 
 I he streets (jf liathurst interse< t ejn-h oilier 
 at right angles; they are well graded, roomy. 
 
 ard shaded by numerous trees. The soil is 
 so sandy that mud is never seen, and altogether 
 the town is a particularly pleasant place both 
 for the residents .and for visitors, There are 
 numerous pleas.-uit drives. One is to the 
 Teli'-;i-gauci.e, or Fair) River, the falls of 
 wliii h are about si veil miles from the town, 
 and llow through a rocky gorge with very fine 
 effect. On the return the Vale l"arm i.-> well, 
 worth a visit. .Another drive is tip the Nepisi- 
 gnit Ui the I'abineau Falls, seven miles, taking 
 in the Rough Waters on the return. .\t the 
 latter place, the Nepisiguit runs for aliotit a 
 mile, roaring atnid huge granite boulders which 
 appear as if hurled thither by Titanic hands. 
 For falls, however, there is nothing in the 
 vicinity to equal the drand falls, twenty-one 
 miles distant, 'i'here .are two ]iitches. the total 
 descent being 105 feet, and the granileur of 
 the rocky heights by which the river is here 
 overlooked re(iiiires to be witnessed to have 
 any conception of the sublimity of the scenery. 
 
 Ciood batiiing may be had at the Point. 
 three miles from the station, where there is a 
 tine sandy beach. There are rumors that a 
 large hotel is to be l)uilt at this place, and 
 the choice of site would be an excellent one. 
 Boating is had in the harbor and around the 
 bay. Mackerel and smells are lished tor with 
 goc)d success, with lines. Some of the smelt 
 measure a foot in length. 
 
 This is a great country for salmon and trout. 
 The former are taken on the Nepisiguit as far 
 up as the Grant! Falls. One of the favorite 
 places for them is at the Rcxigh Waters, but 
 good pools are found ail along the river. In 
 former years a man has gone fu.rn liathurst 
 to (irand Falls, lishing uji. and returned the 
 next da), fishing down, and brought home 
 thirty s.ilmon. weighing from thirty-five pounds 
 each and under. The Tete-a-gauche is another 
 good salmon stream, and the Middle River is 
 fair, but not remarkable ft.r its fishing. The 
 early s.ilmon requires rather a bright tly, liut 
 Mr. Mannery, at the Railway StatiolfJ is the 
 best one to gi\e advice on this point. He 
 knows ail about Hies, ;ind lish .as well. 
 
 Trout fishing with bait commences about 
 le 10th of M.iy, and large ([uantities of sea 
 irour. weigl.ing from half a pound to six 
 pounds, are taken in the harbor, .\bout the 
 last of June, or first of July, the rivers begin 
 to get good and continue so until winter. 
 During the summer ;i red, or brown, or small 
 grey lly brings good success, .ind in the fall, 
 when the fish t.ike bait readily, one who pre- 
 fers a li\- wiiuld do well to use a white ont: 
 with a i;ood de.a! of tinsel. \\\ the rivers 
 
 1 .1 
 
■!lu- 
 
 iiv, Init 
 
 the 
 
 about 
 i<f st-a 
 ltd six 
 |ut the 
 J begin 
 Iviiucr. 
 sniail 
 fall. 
 
 lo (illi: 
 nvirs 
 
iXTi-:KLOj.oxLir. k.u/.\\a\ of c.i.\.i/>.i. 
 
 and lakes have trout. You can cast a line 
 anyvvliere and something will rise to it. 
 
 The N'cpisi(iuii is about fi4 miles long to 
 the head of Ujiper Lake. From this point 
 one ran portage to the Upsalquitch, and 
 thence to the Rcstigouche; to the Tobi- 
 que, and down the St. John, and to the 
 Northwest Miraniichi anil thence to New- 
 castle. The country is wild enough in the 
 interior, and abounds with lakc^ and streams 
 not laid down on any of the maps. These 
 forests are peopled with all kinds of game. 
 
 .\ KINE COUNTRY FOR SFORT 
 
 lies between i5athurst and Newcastle. The 
 Tabusintac River, about half-way, is one of 
 the best sea trout rivers in America. The tish- 
 stories told of it are perfectly astounding to 
 a stranger. The trout are said to be as large 
 as mackerel and so plenty that the fishing 
 of them is like being among a mackerel 
 "school." This may be taken with a little 
 allowance, but there is no doubt that the 
 river is an unusually tine one for sport. 'J"he 
 visitor will find good acconmiodations on the 
 banks, at the house of Mrs. Goodwin, and 
 from there he will go about six miles to the 
 best trout pools. A horse and canoe are use- 
 ful on the journey. The Tracadie River has 
 also a splendid reputation. There are several 
 'other trout streams in rhe district, but tliis one 
 is most worthy of mention. 
 
 Caribou I Yes, the c:aribou plains extend 
 from the Northwest Miramichi to the sea 
 coast; and as to bears, the IVutibogue region 
 points proudly to the record of tlie bounties 
 paid on the bruins slain in its midst. l':u- 
 I ridges are plenty in every part of this '-oimtry, 
 and tly across the path of the traveller c>n 
 every higlnvay. 
 
 MIRAMICHI. 
 
 It is just a.s well for people to beliexe that 
 Miramichi means "Mappy Retreat," rather 
 than to credit the greater piobability that 
 it is derived from Mr;gumaghee, "Micmac 
 Land." Hnppy Retreat i> more poetical and 
 gives visitors a chance to sa\' how well the 
 <lesignation suits the place, and to gush over 
 the noble river and goodly land which was 
 ■tnca the heritage of the Red Man. The 
 name and the fame of Miramiclii h;i\e spread 
 lil (wer the world. Some people in distant 
 l.mds know it because of the lumber, some 
 because of the fish, and many have a vague 
 idea that it is a place in Canada where there 
 was a destructivi; tire years before they were 
 born. Well, tliis is Miramichi, and the lir^^t 
 
 place one stops at is Newcastle, a town fair 
 to look upon as it slopes gently to the waters 
 of the great river, which here broadens infn 
 an arm of the sea as its meets the waters of 
 the Gulf. There was ^ time when one man, 
 Denis de Fronsac. owned the whole of this 
 part of the country, and yet felt his impor- 
 tance a good deal less than many a bank clerk 
 tloes to-day. That was a long time ago; the 
 value i)( real estate has risen smct ilien, anil 
 the 2,000 square miles granted in i6tjo are 
 now cut up so that Denis would not recog- 
 nize them if he came back again. 
 
 Miramiciii has always been a pretty place 
 and has always been praised by its visitors. 
 Jacques Cartier came all the way from France 
 to have a look at it in 1535. and gave il a 
 first-class notice in the guide book to Canad.i 
 which he sub.sequently wrote, l-^very other 
 guide-book man has done the same, and e\ery 
 one has loUl the truth. It is a stirring, wide- 
 awake country, and its people have a right to 
 feel proud of it and to prai.se it. They duly 
 exercise th.it right, and are hapjw in the en- 
 joyment of their lovely heritage. 'The Mira- 
 michi River takes its rise two hundred or 
 ijiore miles from its mouth, its head-waters 
 lying in Carlton and A'ictoria counties, within 
 easy reach of the St. John and its tributaries. 
 The Northwest Branch commences near the 
 head-waters of the Nepisiguit, and the two 
 liranches unite at P)eaubere island, a short 
 distance a.bo\e Newcastle. Uoth branches 
 are fed by numerous large streams, and the 
 river drains over 6,000 square miles of coun- 
 try, an area equal to about a quarter of the 
 IVovincc. It is navigable for large vessels for 
 forty-six miles from the mouth, and for canoes 
 for many hundred miles. The vast cocHry 
 which it drains has never been thoroughly ex- 
 plored; even the ubiquitous lumberman has 
 but a partial knowledge of it ; and it will 
 n^adily be seen that its resources for the 
 hunter are practically without limit. Moose, 
 caribou, deer, bears, wolves, foxes, raccoons, 
 loup-cerviers, and all the smaller animals 
 range these forests, while fi.sh leap from 
 every lake and stream. 15y this great natural 
 highway, and its connections, one may reach 
 every section of the l'ro\ince whorv a hunter 
 wishes to go. No pent-up shooting park con- 
 tr;i(ts his powers; it is for himself to limit 
 the extent of his journey. 
 
 One whose time is limited docs not need to 
 wander far from Chatham or Newcastle in order 
 to lind abundant sport. As for tishing, he is in 
 a tish country, from which the annual exports of 
 salmon, smelt. l)ass, etr.. are something almost 
 
THE GREAT FIRE. 
 
 II 
 
 .eci to 
 I order 
 :ic is in 
 lorts of 
 almost 
 
 incTcrlible. RoH tishin^ may he had in every 
 tlirpctioii. M.my i^dod s.ilinon [irivile^jes arc 
 nut yet under lease, as, for instance, rlu- Little 
 Southwest and Kenous rivers and their lakes, 
 some of which have never been fully exjilored. 
 Wherever there is a high hank on one side and 
 a low beach on the other, will be found a pool 
 to wiiich salmon are sure to resort. The Ox 
 ]U)w, on the Little South West, a mile above 
 Red Bank, is a favorite spot for tisliers. The 
 mam Nortii West is a particularly gond river; 
 one of the noted places on it is the Mig Hole, 
 t:ve or six miles above the Head of the Tide. 
 There salmon or grilse can he c.iughl at almost 
 all times, but are particularly abundant imme- 
 diately after a rain. The Big and Little 
 Sevogles, whi( h empty into the river just named, 
 have a good reputation. The former is a very 
 pretty river with a fine water-fall, in the basin 
 beneath which is excellent fishing at certain 
 seasons. Immediately below is the Square 
 Forks, where the north and south branches 
 meet, a place with scener\ of rather a striking 
 nature. The Miramiclii salmon is not large, 
 ten pounds being a fair average, but its tiavor 
 is ve!7 fine. Grilse average about five or si.\ 
 pounds. They are very gamy. an<l afford 
 splendid sport. 
 
 Trout fishing is had in ail the rivers, brooks 
 and iakes. The Tabusintac has already been 
 mentioned. The sea trout in it and in the 
 Tracadie are \-ery large. On both rivers therp 
 is good fishing for many miles from the mouth. 
 E.arly in June, when the water of the Miramichi 
 is low, fine sea trout are caught as far up as 
 Indiantown. As for Hies, the "Jock Scoti" is 
 considered good for all purposes. The ' Silver 
 Doctor" is another favorite, while for spring 
 lishing a red body with white wings is found 
 to have "a very taking way." 
 
 During the summer, mackerel and codfish, 
 are taken with the hook in the Miramichi Bay, 
 and in September there is also good bass fish- 
 ing inside of Horse Shoi Bar, at the mouth of 
 the river. The winter tishing for bass, with 
 bow nets, is followed on the N'<jrth. West liiver, 
 .4ud tish as large as twenty pounds are taken. 
 The winter smelt fishing has also grown to a 
 great industf)-. Smelt take the hook as well, 
 and are fished for in the fall and winter with 
 jiggers, four hooks being used. 
 
 .As alread) stated, bear and ciribou .are 
 plenty between Newcastle and Bathurst. 
 Messrs. Coiuiell and Kenna. who live at Barti- 
 bcigue, have a wide reputation as hunters, and 
 strangers can procure their services as guides. 
 
 Partridge are very jilent). I'lover and snipe 
 are also found in the fall, and a few, but not 
 
 many, English woodcock. 1 he great fall ami 
 spring sport is thi: shooting of geese, brant ;ind 
 ducks of all kinds. They are founrl ar '1 abii- 
 sintac (iully, mouth of Tabusintac. Neguac 
 Clully, Black Lands Point and Grand Anse, on 
 the north of the river, and Baie du \"in. Fox 
 Island, Point ILscuminac. .and other places on 
 the south side. 
 
 Newcastle has a large trade ni hitnber, and 
 the saw mills are found in e\eiv direction out- 
 side of the town. The fish bu;;iness gives 
 employment to a large number of people and 
 represents a large amount of money. Trade 
 of other kinds is brisk and tliere is ,i general 
 air of prosperity. The situation of the town, 
 its regular streets and numerous fine residences 
 make it a place most .ugree.ible to the eyes of 
 the visitor. Chatham, six miles below, is a 
 busy place, with a large trade. Its wharves 
 are in continual demand for the large quantities 
 of shipping which come hither from all parts 
 of the world, and its streets and stores have a 
 rush (jf business pleasant to witness. It is the 
 seat of the Roman Catholic Bishop of Chat- 
 ham Diocese, and has numerous line buildings, 
 both public and private. The Chatham Branch, 
 Railway, nine miles in length, connects the 
 town with the Intercolonial, and steamers \i\\ 
 several times a day between Chatham and 
 Newcastle, and also make trips to indiantown, 
 twenty miles above the latter place. The ad- 
 jacent country is well settled and has numerous 
 beautiful drives. Excursions are made ()y 
 steamer from Chatham to Bay du \'in, a dis- 
 tance of 25 miles, the round iri[) rosiing the 
 nuiderate sum of fifty cents. 
 
 The scenery of all this part of the country 
 must be seen to be appreciated. Th.^ magniri- 
 oent river and the rich country through which 
 it Hows combine to make a vision (^f beauty 
 not soon to be forgotten. 
 
 T HE G K E A T I I R E 
 
 of 1825 nas beciime a matter of history. No 
 partial accoimt can do tt justice, ;u:il anything 
 like a ilescripiion is ne<'essarily evcluded from 
 f.hcse pages. It m.iy be brielly su luned up as 
 one of the greatest conllagratious of which 
 there is any record. It rushed over the coun- 
 try in a sheet of llame one iiundred miles in 
 length and burned all before it over an area of 
 t'ight thousand .square miles. The damage 
 which it did to the lumber woods caimot be 
 computed ; in the settlements it destroyed over 
 a million dollars' worth of property. It has 
 never been known lu w many lives v\ere lost; 
 the lowest estimate was one hundred and sixty, 
 in the Newcastle di.-'^rict, but the whole num- 
 
 III 
 
 II 
 
T7^ 
 
 34 
 
 /.V77:A'c<>/.().\7.I/. R.U/.W.l \- ii/- 
 
 iX.I/'.l. 
 
 her was undoubtedly mm li larijcr. Whole 
 families were destroyed, and hundreds were 
 m.'ide honu'less and destitute. Newcastle was 
 swept from existence almost in the twinkling' 
 of an eye. In three hours from the appearance 
 of the sheet of llame, every house, save one or 
 two. had vanished, and desolation was upon 
 the land. It was a sicnt of which the terrible 
 i^randcur can \k: but feebly reali/.ed ; the most 
 cunuuon place accounts of it as related by the 
 few survivors tn-day arc thrilliiiv,^ in the ex- 
 treme. The reality must have been ap|xdlin,i( 
 in its horrors. 
 
 After leaving Newcastle, the Miramichi Kail- 
 way Uridines are crossed. Every one admires 
 their l)eauty, and no one is surprised when 
 to'a :!iat the cost of ttiis part of the road was 
 . the neiji^hborhood of a million dollars. This 
 rcnrescnts a vast amount of work, much of 
 w.iitli is hidden under the water. Kach of the 
 bridi^es is i.2cx) feet \n len,t,'tli, and tiiey are 
 models of strength combined with beauty. 
 
 From Miramichi until Moncton is reacheil 
 the railway passes throuji^h a country which 
 has no particuk'.r attractions for the eyi-. It is 
 so far from the shore that none of the nourish- 
 ing settlements are seen, and the traveller is 
 apt to gain a poor idea of the country. There 
 is, however, a fire farming and fishing district 
 all along the co;ist, and some large rivers of 
 which only the head waters are crDSsed. The 
 Richibucto is one of these, and the lown of the 
 same name is worthy of mere than a p.issing 
 mention. A branih railway is being carrieil 
 to it from Kent Junction. 
 
 M()\L rox. 
 
 Here is the heart of the Intercolonial, the 
 centre from which the busy operations of the 
 system ;ire controlled. No one can doubt that 
 he is in what is essentially a railway town 
 Vou smell i railway odor in the air; you hear 
 the noise of a railway at all hours of the dav 
 and night ; you see railway trains going this 
 way and tliat way, and you meet railway men 
 in all sorts of places. The railway finds 
 Moncton a convenient point, and .Moncton is 
 ])leased to liave the oHices and work shops in 
 its riiidst. It dreamed of suth a time as this 
 when it w.is only known as The Hend. and the 
 rai'wa\- was merely a v'ision of the future. 
 
 Moncton is now a town of between live and 
 si.x thousand inhabitants, and iss!,!! growing. 
 Us streets are spacious and regiilar. Those 
 in the busiii'^ss p(.)rtion are lined wiih stores 
 in which .1 large amount of business is done. 
 In the other parts nf the town arc private 
 
 residences of tasteful ilc^ign, antl in main- 
 Cfises the grounds are arr;inged in a beautiful 
 m.anner. Hotels are numerous and their rep- 
 r(S('iitatives salute the stranger, as he steps 
 from the cars, with a "greeting glee," of which 
 the words, " Free Coach," etc., form the bur- 
 den. The W'eldon House is the most popular 
 hotel. There is also a railwa\' dining room at 
 the depot. Various industries incident to a 
 pUiee of tfiis size are successfully carried on. 
 'I'he Sugar Ketinery is one of the late adilitions. 
 and speaks volumes for the enterprise of the 
 leading citizens. .V large cotton factory is also 
 in course of erection. Ship building has been 
 carried on to some extent, and. take it all in all. 
 Mou' con is one (jf the lu'c towns of \ew 
 firunswick. 
 
 The town is located M the Bend of the 
 I'etitcodiac, one of the rivers to which tlie 
 traveller must get accustomed ere he proceeds 
 much further on his journey. At high water 
 it is quite a majestic stream, thougli .1 tritle 
 discolored : at low water the river dis;ip]iears. 
 : with the exception of some w.ater in the chan- 
 nel, and acres of smooth, slippery miiil appe.ir. 
 This mud is not a nice thing to get intcj, but 
 I as a fertilizer it is a great success — the manure 
 '■ with which .Nature enriches the vast areas of 
 marsh which are found at the head of the B.iy 
 J of I'undy. The I'etitcodiac River, at Moncton, 
 is a goc)d place to see the tide come in with a 
 "bore." Thousands of well read people, trust- 
 ing to books written by men of imaginative 
 minds, have lived and died in the belief that 
 ! the tide at the head of the Bay rose 1 20 feet. 
 Old editions of the F.ncyilopcdia Ihittanica 
 I used to say so. and one geographer is respon- 
 ' sible for the statement that this extraordinary 
 tide was seen thirty miles away approaching 
 j in one vast wave and with a prodigious noise. 
 ! The truth is, that the Bay of I'"undy tides rise 
 1 as high as 60 feet and upwards, and with great 
 I rai)idity, but t.ake plenty of time to fall. When 
 I they enter certain long aiul narrow estuaries a 
 bore of six feet, and in some ca.ses, even higher, 
 is formed. This is, however, worth seeing, and 
 j worth keeping out of the way of, if you are out 
 in a boat and don't know how to manage it ; 
 but a tra\ tiler who has set his heart on a bore 
 j of sixty or a hundred feet is apt to be disap- 
 ' pointed. 
 
 j Seven miles beyond Moncton is Painsec 
 I Junction, where the tourist changes cars for 
 
 SHEDI.VC. 
 
 ' F.veryone has he.ird of the Shediac oysters, 
 i those niarvels of fla-.or on the half-shell or in 
 
SUED/AC. 
 
 35 
 
 an A I stew. This is the plaic where they 
 live when they are at liome, and where unc 
 may admire their open countenanrcs as tiiey 
 r<imc fresh from their native eliniciu. Sindiae 
 has more tlian oysters to recommend it. how- 
 ever, for it is one of the must |>leasant snmmer- 
 resorts on tliis shore. i\s yet, strani;ers have 
 Ji.trdly foimd it ont, but its beauties are well 
 known to the people of New Brunswick, many 
 of whom pay it a visit during the summer 
 months. All who go to Shediac enjoy them- 
 selves. The village of itself is a pretty place, 
 and the locality is a charming one. The har- 
 i)or is a beautiful sheet of water, about a mile 
 ;uul a half long, and from three to five miles 
 wide. All around it is ;i smooth and gently 
 sloping smd beach, alfording every facility for 
 hulling in the pleasantly warm water. Hath 
 houses have been erected for those who dusire 
 ihem, and though the water is the salt sea, 
 from the Gulf, there are no under-tows to play 
 tricks upon the weak and unwary. There are 
 neither stjualls nor rough seas in the harbor, 
 and it is a splendid cruising ground for pleas- 
 ure boats, which can be furnished by Mr. .Snarr 
 ar.d others who live near at hand Tile Island, 
 a short distance away, is much in f.avor for 
 pleasure jsarties. .\ visit to tlit; Cape, one of 
 the prettiest places in the vicinity, will well 
 icpay one for the trouble. 
 
 Point du Chene, two miles below Shediac, 
 is the deep-water terminus and port of ship- 
 ment. Here, in the summer, may be seen 
 large numbers of square-rigged vessels, loading 
 with lumber for ports across the ocean. IJaily 
 communication is had with Prince Edward 
 Island, by steamer. 
 
 A great ileal of quiet enjoyment ma) be had 
 from the trout fishing in this vicinity. The 
 streams most sought by the angler .are the 
 .Shediac and the Scadouc. On tlic former, good 
 places are found at Bateman's mill, four miles 
 from the village, and at CJIilbert's mill, two 
 miles beyond. Between these places and l\iint 
 du Chene sea trout may be caught, weighing 
 three and four pounds each. On the Scadoiic, 
 the best fishing is at .Smith's mill, two and a 
 half miles tlistant. Th.e trout in these rivers 
 average two and three pounds each. Fishing 
 commences in the latter part of May, and the 
 tly preferred is the red hackle. Down the 
 -^liore, good lishing is had at Dickey's mill, 
 three miles, and at Aboushagan, eight miles 
 distant, (lood bass and mackerel tishing is 
 had in the harboi- and off the Island, in the 
 fall. In September and October, three and 
 four-pound bass ean be caught from tiie wharf 
 at Point du Chene. 
 
 Oysters, of course, are abund.mt. while sea- 
 clams, nnid clams and hjb.sters are found every- 
 where along the shore. 
 
 Plover shooting coinmences on ihe 1st of 
 Sc[)tember, and good suck'ss is ha-J on the 
 shoic. from Point du t.'hene to I'larachoi?.. a 
 range of ;ibout four miles. This shore is also 
 ■a x""(l place for geese, brant and ducks in the 
 spring and fall, and another gnod shooting 
 ground is at (irand Digue, about e'ghl miles 
 distant by road. 
 
 Hoard is very reasonatjle and excellent ac- 
 commodation is pro\ided. The Weldon Mouse, 
 which rims a free carriage to and from the 
 steamers at Point d.u Chene, is w ell conducteil. 
 The rate is only 81.50 a clay, and board m.iy 
 be securttl for $5 and $6 .1 week. The (ailf 
 Port sit Liners call at Point du Chene. and 
 Shediac and its vicinitv shows no small amount 
 of stir in the summer. With fine climate, 
 fresli sea breezes, sunny days and cool nights, 
 the place is remarkably healthv ; more than 
 that, it is exceedingly pleasant 
 
 The traveller can go from Shediac direct to 
 Prince Edward Island, he can return to Monc- 
 t'ln and thence to .St. John ; or he can return 
 to P.-iinsee and continue his journey south. 
 Taking itie latter course, he enters upon a fine 
 country, which becomes more settled and bet- 
 ter cultivated as he proi eeds. Menir.tnicook 
 is a settlement largely composed of Acadian 
 French. .St. Joseph's College and other educa- 
 tional institutions (R. C.) are the chief features 
 of interest. A few miles beyond is Dori;hcster, 
 prettily situated on rising ground. The Mari- 
 time Penitentiary, for l<mg-terin prisoners, is a 
 cons[)icuous object in approaching the village. 
 Copper is mined in the vicinity and shiji-build- 
 ing has been larried on ;icti\'ely (or many 
 vears. Dorchester has furnished the Province 
 with one of its (io\ernors and the Supreme 
 Court with one of its judges. Being the Shire- 
 town of Westmoreland, law and politics entei 
 largely into the elements of its d.aily life. 
 
 Eleven miles beyond this is Saekville, a place 
 which would be (|uite :i town if the houses 
 were chjse together, but which is scattered 
 o\er miles of country. Farming is extensively 
 carried on. and soim; of the Vinest cattle in the 
 Lower I'roviiiees are raised here. The thou- 
 sands of .icres cif fertile marsh arc a rich 
 heritage, and the farmers are fully aware of 
 their value. The .Mount .\llison College and 
 .Vcademies ( Methodist t are located in Saekville 
 ,*ind ai'ford every facility for thorough educa- 
 tion, Thev are finely situated and are well 
 attended. 
 
 It has been the flream of Saekville, for many 
 
36 
 
 IXI'KNCOLO.YfAL A'.ULU'.l)' OF LAX ADA. 
 
 years, to have a railway to Cape Tornu-ntine, 
 comiminuatiiijj with I'riiice Edward Island, 
 and this now bids fair to be realized. 
 
 Loral sportsmen find fair poose and duck 
 shootinjj at the lakes abo\-e Sackville, and 
 snipe shootiiiij is also carried on to some 
 extent. 
 
 Leavin)^ Sackville, the road takes its way 
 over the Tinianiarre Marsh for several miles, 
 close to the head of the Pay of l'"undy. Au 
 Lac station is another proposed terminus fr)r 
 the Cape Torniemine Railway, and was also 
 the point ;a which the liaie \'ertf Canal would 
 have commenced, had it been built. The isth- 
 mus at this point is a little over eleven miles 
 wide from water to water, and it is not twenty 
 miles from one anchoratje to the other. The 
 country is well settled between the two shores. 
 A short distance beyond Au Lac is a hill 
 upon which may be seen the ruins of Fort 
 Cumberland, the Beaustjour of the f'rench. 
 Those who would learn its story, and the story 
 f lYaii' e in this part of America, should read 
 llannay's History of Acadia, a work which 
 has all the fascination of a romance. "These 
 w;istin,tf battlements," he says, " have a .sadiler 
 hist(jry than almost any other piece of ground 
 in ,\cadia, for they represent the last effort of 
 France to hold on to a portion of that ]'rov- 
 ince which was once all her own, which she 
 seemed to value so little when its possession 
 was secure, yet which she fought so hard to 
 save. This ruin is all that remains of the 
 once potent and dread.ed Bcausejour." The 
 fort once had accommodation for eight hun- 
 dred men, and was the chief of a system of 
 foriitications on the isthmus. !t was t.aken !iy 
 Colonel .Moncton in June, 1755, and with its 
 fall the struggle in Acadia was at an end. 
 The English gave the place the name of Fort 
 Cumberland. As the years rolled by it was 
 suffered to fall into decay, and now only the 
 ruins remain, -to point a moral or adorn a 
 tale." 
 
 AMHERST. 
 
 Everyone who visits Amherst gets the inif 
 pression that it is a busy place. The business 
 portion of the town is compactly built, and 
 there is a stir upon the streets at all hours 
 of the day and e\ening. The people move 
 around as if they had .something to do and 
 meant to do it, and the stores have a business- 
 like asjiect agree.-i^jjc to witness. The loca- 
 tion, too. is a pleasant one, on gentiv lisiiig 
 ground, and the centre of the town is sutlici- 
 ently near the railway to save trouble and yet 
 not near enough to have discotnfort fn>ni tlie 
 
 noise and busth of the station yard. The 
 ])rivate residences show good taste as well as 
 a regard for comfort, and every street has its 
 flower-gardens, which show careful attention 
 on the part of their possessors. Amherst is 
 a live place, and is rapidly growing in size, 
 with a corresponding imrease in the amount 
 of its trade. When the Chignecto Ship l^ail- 
 way, for carrying vessels overland across the 
 isthmus, is constructed, Amher.st will be a still 
 more important place. The adjacent country 
 abounds with flourishing settlements which 
 make Amherst a centre, and ev( n the vill.nges 
 across the border favor it largely with their 
 custom. 
 
 In the winter, when navigation across the 
 strait is impracticable by ordinary means, Am- 
 herst is the point of arrival atid departure for 
 mails and passengers i-n route for P. E. Island 
 by that exfaonlinary means — the ice-boat. 
 An ice-boat in the common usage of the term 
 denotes a triangular affair on runners, fitted 
 with sails, and speeding along over the smooth 
 ice with a speed which no other kind of craft, 
 or vehicle, can hope to equal. This is hardly 
 the kind of boat that crosses the Straits (if 
 Northimiberland. The traveller, well prepared 
 for the journey, goes by the stage to Cape Tor- 
 mentine, and puts up at the house of the cele- 
 brated "Tom Allen." If the weather be clear, 
 and the condition of the ice and water not ab- 
 solutely bad. he will not be delayed long before 
 the boat is ready to start. The distance to 
 Cape Traverse is about nine miles, part solid 
 ice, part drifting ice, part water, anil some- 
 times a great deal of broken ice or "lolly." 
 The "ice-boat" is a strongly built water boat, 
 in charge of trusty men who thoroughly un- 
 derstand the dilhcult task that is before them. 
 To this boat straps are attached, and each 
 man, passengers included, has one slung over 
 him. So long as there is any foothold, all 
 hands drag the boat along, and when the 
 water is reached they put the boat in it ,and 
 get on bo.-.rd. In this way, sometimes up to 
 the waij-t in water, but safely held by the 
 strap, pulling and hauling over all kmds of 
 places, the journey is accomplished. Some- 
 times, whei^ tiie conditions are good, the trip 
 has less hardships than when a large amount 
 of loose ice is piled across the path; but at 
 any time the "voyage" is suthciently full of 
 novelty, excitement and exercise, fo be renitMn- 
 bered for mruiy days. There is nothing like it 
 in the ordin.iry experience of a traveller. It is 
 an uni(]ue sule of journeying, yet so, far, it is 
 the only sure method nf communication with 
 the island in the winter season. 
 
 I I 
 
J\t/iA:s/iUA'0. 
 
 37 
 
 Sdiik'- 
 
 irip 
 
 mount 
 
 liut ;it 
 
 full of 
 
 •iiu'in- 
 
 like it 
 
 It is 
 
 \r, it is 
 
 n with 
 
 Numerous pleasant <Irives may Ik- had aroimd 
 the vicinity of Amherst. ' •ne of these is to 
 Fort Cumberland, from whi'h there is a 
 splendid view of the Ba\ and the surrountlin^f 
 country for many miles. Tlie drive to Bale 
 Verte and vieinity will also prove of interwt, 
 and indeed, as tiie country is well .settled and 
 fjood farms meet the eye in every part, it is 
 hard for one to take a drive, which will not 
 afford pleasure. 
 
 The shore to the eristwaid abounds with 
 duck and peese at the i)roper seasons. This 
 shore is well settletl and has some line harbors. 
 Tiiat of Pugwash is an especially good one, 
 safe, commodious, and deep eiioucfh for vessels 
 of any si/e. Moose arc found .■imonjf the 
 mountains to the south of Amherst, and in 
 other places not far away. The east branch 
 of River Philip, 27 miles distant, and Shulee, 
 40 miles, are both moose ^(rounds. 
 
 The best fishing to be had is at Fountain 
 Lake, Westchester, which is reached by going 
 to (Jrecn^ille station, from which ii drive of 
 five miles brings one to Purdy's hotel. Here 
 there is capital accommodation. The lake is 
 about six miles beyond this, a pretty sheet of 
 water which contains a ver)- gamy salmon 
 trout. "Tom, the Hermit," who dwells by 
 the lake, will answer the stranger's hallo, and 
 m.ike hii'''' at home with the best fishing places. 
 Mr. Purdy will, however, see that the visitor is 
 well fitted out and fully jiosted on all points. 
 
 The chief hotels in Amherst are ihe f.amy 
 .md Hamilton Terrace, ;ind the charges are 
 \ery moderate. The Railway Dining Room 
 is well conducted, ;ind every attention is paid 
 to its patrons. One great feature of the line 
 is the ample time allowed for meals. There 
 need be no indecent haste in eating, and one 
 can do full justice to the good cheer placed 
 before him. 
 
 'I'hc first station of importance after leaxing 
 .Vmherst is Maccan, near which the Chignecto 
 Coal Mines are situated. Stages run from 
 iiere, daily to Minudie and the Joggiiis Mines. 
 .Minudie does a large business in grindstones, 
 ind the Joggins Mines have a heavy annual 
 output of coal. Beyond Maccan is Athol, 
 from which one may take the stage for Parrs- 
 boro, and have a pleasant drive of zz miles 
 through a very beautiful country. If he pre- 
 fer to go by rail, he can leave the Intercolonial 
 at Spring Hill Junction and make a journey of 
 T,2 miles on the S. H. & 1'. line. On the way 
 he will see, and may stop at. the well-known 
 S|)ring Hill Mines. Here stands a busy mining 
 village where ten years ago were hut a few 
 f.irm houses. There are two slopes, reaching 
 
 :\ deplh of sftmething like a thous.md feet, 
 and a third has just been opened. Last year 
 1 70,000 tons of coal were raised and shiiiped, 
 a portion by the Intercolonial ;uid a portion in 
 vessels from P.irrsboro. The slack, or culm, 
 coal is sent ehielly to the I'niicd States; the 
 other kinds .-ire used for liome ( onsumption. 
 
 P.\ K K SB I) l< (> 
 
 i'^ a place with rare attractions, and is one of 
 the most eligible summer-resorts in the .Mari- 
 time Pro\inces. (^n this point, its residents 
 and its visitors are alike unanimous in th - 
 opinion. Situate 
 
 '" 111 the .\ radian Land on tli'' sliorf; of iho 
 lia^in (if Miii.T." 
 
 the sceiier\ in it: \iciiiity ranges frjm th. 
 serenely beau'iful to the impn'ssively gr;.n(' 
 Sea and land, mountain and valley, lake.s, 
 rivers, forest and field, all appear in th.eir most 
 pleasing aspect and unite to form a i.iost 
 harmonious whole. 
 
 Parrsboro was settled by the Ameri.:^;. 
 Loyalists, who, like their companions at the 
 mouth of the St. John, nametl their seftlemem 
 after Ciovcrnor Parr. The village has now 
 about 1,200 inhabitants, and is a busy place 
 during the summer months. Large quantities 
 of lumber from the mills in the surrcjimding 
 country, and of coal from the Spring Hill 
 Mines are .sh![)[)ed from this port. Vessels are 
 continually arriving ami departing. The entries 
 and clearances average about five each dav 
 and there were nearly a thousand in all last 
 season. Communication is had with St. John, 
 Windsor. Kmgsport and Wolfville by steamer, 
 a new, powerful and commodious one ha\'ing 
 been recently placed on the route. 
 
 The tourist who desires to avoid monotony, 
 either of scenery or climate, will find Parrsboro 
 adapted to his wants. A little distance inl.ind 
 is the warm breath of summer, " with spicy 
 odors laden " from the forests and the fields, 
 while upon the shore are the gentle salt-water 
 breezes, not raw and chilly as upon the Atlan- 
 tic sea-board, but tempered until they become 
 most gr.iteful to the senses. The fogs which 
 sometimes enter the Bay of Fundy rarely in- 
 trude here, and never remain sufficiently long 
 to cause a feeling of discomfort. 
 
 The most pleasant spot in the vicinity of 
 Parrsboro is Partridge Island, about two miles 
 from the village. It is a jjeninsula \vith an 
 area of about fifty acres, but becomes ^n 
 island during high tides, when the water 
 covers the low ground in the rear. From 
 
 .il 
 
 ! Ii 
 
3« 
 
 f.\ f/-:K( ("if.O.X/.l/. A\l//.ll.l) (>/■' (AXADA. 
 
 lliis lf)vv ground the land rises grandly to a 
 height of about 250 feet, and exposes a boKl 
 and niajcstic bhiff to the waters of the basin. 
 'rhioui;h the. br.iutifui woods by whiih it is 
 eo%'er(.d, a road winds gracefully to the sum- 
 mil, till' tunber being eleareil at intervals to 
 allow unobstrueled views of the surrovmding 
 (■nuntry. These views are .-iini^ly i;lorious. 
 The liasin of Minas, famed for its Ix aiity, is 
 here seen tn its best advantage. A sjilendid 
 paooramn of sea and land flashes upon the 
 spectator. Far df)wn. where the waters of 
 Fnndy become broad aiul dt'cp, '\:\ seen Cape 
 D'Or {)verloc;ldng the bay. N'L.trer, as the 
 channel enters the basin, stand l.'ajxs Sii.irp 
 and Split, lil:c sentinels in i^iiard the pass, 
 while IJIomidon. rising from the waves, looks 
 dov\n ujjon the fair and fertile marshes of 
 (jrand I're — the l.ind of Ciabriel and Evange- 
 line. Within the basin, the eye ranges far up 
 into Cobefjiiid Hay and across to wlicre the 
 broad waters of tlie .\\on seek their journey 
 to the SCI. All around llie shores arc seen 
 the tokens of a goodly land and a prosperous 
 people. Here and there are islands of rare 
 Ix'auly, while on all sides the mountains, val- 
 leys and plains, blend w.th a harmony which 
 no iKiinter can portray. 
 
 The " Ottawa Mouse," at Partridge Island, 
 is>a tirst-class hotel, uniler the management of 
 ^^r. Tabor. It is located on a pleasant i)art 
 of the shore, and w ill be found adapted to the 
 requirements of tourists. An hijtel, which is 
 more for private bcarrl, is also kept by Mr. 
 Kelsoe. 
 
 In addition to Partridge Island, the drives 
 and walks in the vicinity of Parrsboro .are 
 numerous and most enjoyable. The ro.ids 
 ,u'e always good, for the soil is of c|e;m gravel, 
 and mud is unknown at any season of the 
 year. In whatever direction one goes, there 
 are roads upon -which it is a pleasure to drivt;. 
 If .mother good view is desired, a drive of 
 two niiles up the basin to Eraser's Mead, or 
 .Silver Cr.ag, will be of advantage. Cascade 
 Valley, three ov four miles from the village, 
 has a picturesque waterfall, and another, hav- 
 ing a descent of perhaps a hundred feet, is 
 found at Moose River, seven miles distant. 
 One of the most attractive drives, however, 
 is to the beautifid Five Islands, tw-elve miles 
 away. Much of the road thither is romantic 
 in the extreme, presenting all kinds of scenery. 
 Fur fnnr or five miles the way lies in a gorge 
 between the mountains, while the towering 
 cliffs overshadowing the scene awaken the 
 most sublime emotions. The beauty oi F^ive 
 Islands, too, is something to be long remem- 
 
 bered, and, indeed, the i)l.irc has long hail a 
 wide fame, among searehiTs for the pictur- 
 esque in Nature. Many prefer to visit Five 
 Islantis Ity sail-boat, and excursions are very 
 frequent The hotel kept by .Mrs. I)roderi(k 
 will be found worthy of patronage. 
 
 Those who have never seen one u{ the curi- 
 ous natural roadways known as horse-backs 
 shoukl take a drive in the direction of River 
 Hebert. This horse-back eoinmences at Fiil- 
 leilons Mridge, ten miies frnm I'.irrsboro, and 
 continues (or .ibout eight miles. It much re- 
 sembles a railway embankment, having the 
 river on one side and low. marshy laud on the 
 other. It formed jiart of the old .Military 
 Road to l'"ort Cumberland, .uul bear- the not 
 specially poelie.il name of the Hoar's Hack. 
 
 Another pleasant drive is to .Advocate Flar- 
 bor, 30 miles down the shore ; but it is hardly 
 necessary to name all of the many drives which 
 are open to the visitor. They are all beautiful 
 ones, through jjicturesciue valK vs, amid moun- 
 tains clothed with every variety of foli;tge, and 
 by brooks that murmur musically through 
 woodland scenes. 
 
 .As for tri|)S in yachts and 'iinaller boats, it 
 is enough to say that the Hasin of Minas lies 
 before one. Day after day may be spent 
 around its shores, visiting Blomidon, the Island--, 
 and the numerous peaceful bays. Sheltered 
 from rude winds and heavy seas,-safe. capacious 
 and beautiful, the Basin has all that pleasure 
 seekers may desire. 
 
 Thirteen miles to the north and west of 
 I'arrsboro, at Sand Ri\t r, is found some of the 
 best caribou and moose hunting in Nova .Scotia. 
 Here there is a large area in which, from the 
 middle of September to the last of January, an 
 abimtlance of shooting may be had, brith of 
 this game and of bears. Nearer to I'arrsboro, 
 are large nmnbers of partridge, so plenty 
 indeed, that as many as thirty-two have been 
 shot in one afternoon. Ceese, brant, <iucks 
 and other sea-shore game are abundant arotmd 
 the shores. This part of the coimtry always 
 had a good reputation for sport. Two hundred 
 and lifty years ago, it is written, game was so 
 plenty that the Indians of this part of Acadia 
 had so little exertion to make in hunting that 
 they were considered sedentary in their habits. 
 They have almost disappeared, but tlie game 
 is still to be fi)und. 
 
 This is not notably a salmon country, thougTi 
 some are found in Partridge Island and ¥\\c 
 Island ri\ers. and are present, to a certain ex- 
 tent, in others. The trout lishing is fair, there 
 being plenty of medium size. Partridge Island. 
 I Moose, Diligent ami Half Way Rivers are the 
 
Th'lRO. 
 
 liest itsliiiiv; sircaiiis Sonie sport may .iLso 
 l)C liail al I.fMk's I.ako and Lako I'lca.'-.int, 
 (lose to I'arrshnrfi; at Fuilfrton's Lake, ■> 
 miles av\av. ami at < laspcriMU.N Lake, 'i (tr 7 
 mik's distant, ('mud salt water fisliiiii; may 
 lie liad in the liasin, wliori- cud, lialihni. hake, 
 liolldck and haddock are found in abundance. 
 |-"resh I'lsli may. ihejeforc, be had all throuv^h 
 the season, while the best of farii> prcdiiets 
 are i{"'- fi'"ni the surruiindini; coiintry. It is 
 .1 pl.ice where farmin^j e.m be loiluwcrl with 
 profit, as is jiroved by 'he expeneni'e of I)r. 
 lOwnshend Collector of Customs. Last year 
 he raised no less than 5:20 Inishels of potatoes 
 from one ai re of .uroi'iid. This extraordinarv 
 
 \illa,v;es on the north shore will not bi' tiiui 
 spent in vain. 'I'he railw;n is now asceiulini; 
 the well-known t.!obe(|uitl .Ntountains, the sum- 
 mit of which it attains .at 1 oily L.ike, 607 feet 
 .above the sea, ihc- hii,{hest point on the line, 
 with the exi eptiun of tht Siunmit on the 
 other side of the .Meiapedi.tc X'alky. The 
 S'-encry while jfoinjf over the moimi.iins is 
 picturesque. At times tin- \alley is seen f.ar 
 below, the river tlowinv; lhroUj,fh its t;;reen in- 
 terv.ales, ani; a.i^'.iin the train p.asses throui^h 
 I utiiiiifs where the rocks be.'ir Vitness to the 
 l;ibor involved in the i oi^structiuii of the ru.ad 
 over the timunlains. (K-er tlu l*"olly N'alley 
 is a viaduct si.v hundred f>et loiikj ami eivjhty- 
 
 est of 
 of the 
 
 .Scotia. 
 
 om the 
 rv. an 
 ah of 
 sboro, 
 plenty 
 ! been 
 ducks 
 iround 
 always 
 mdred 
 was so 
 Acadia 
 ig that 
 habits. 
 ; game 
 
 thougTi 
 (1 Five 
 ,iin ex- 
 r. there 
 
 land. 
 
 .' the 
 
 1 ol 1 Y VI.MJUCT. 
 
 ueld shows that the country is as substantial , two feet liivjli. It is subst.-mtiailv built and 
 
 in its resources as it is beautiful in its appear- literally "''oundt-d u[)on a roik." 
 
 ance, a lively combination of ,////,.' lum ii'i/Ar. \ ,\t Lonilonderry a brand; -ailway runs to 
 
 ke:.;a!iiin.m the line of the Intercolonial at | the Acadian Iron Works three miles distant, 
 
 .Spring- Hill Junction the visitor passes a tine ' the opentions of wlii' h will be of much interest 
 
 ■ountry, of which the settlements .seen from to those mn familiar with the manufacture of 
 
 tlie cars convey no proper idea. Al O.sford. iron from the ore. Stages al.so run to the 
 
 ..re extensive f.ictorics. one braneii of industry , mines, and to Great \'illage. Economy and Five 
 
 l)eing the manufacture of the celebrated 0\- \ Islands. 
 t ird cloths, which have a reputation which has 
 
 syread even to distant 'amis. At Thomson 
 ■onneetion is made, by stage, with Pug wash; 
 irom (Ireenville, access is had ta the West- 
 ■liester fishing grounds; and .at \V>'ntworth 
 -tages are taken to W.illace, Tatamagouche 
 ■ind New Annan. .V visit lu ihc lluurishing 
 
 T ri:r(). 
 
 Less than a century and .a quarter ago the 
 land w here Truro slant' .-vas without a habita- 
 tion built by Anglo-.Sii.Kon hands. The first 
 settlers found one or two old barns which the 
 
•\<> 
 
 /.y/7':A'i-(K'.(>.\7.!/. NJf/.ll'-lV or (\lX.i/>.!. 
 
 Freii"!! li.'nl limit .'i few inilf>i from the present 
 town, .111(1 biin;,' iiior'.- m;itti i-of-fact ih;in 
 po«'tii'ai, bcMowcd tlic nami- of ( )lil Harris upon 
 that part of tlii' townsl\ip. This iiaiiu- survives 
 until the present day, for the pi'ople of Nova 
 Scotia liave a iiri(l<' in hein^' eonserxiitiw, and 
 in preserving llnir an<ieni landin.irks. J'or- 
 tunately for the peace of the fashion. ihle society 
 of ihe town t()-d;iy, noihinj; old, noi even a 
 horse, was found on the site of Truro, .ind so 
 the settlement was honored with a rather 
 euphonious nariie. Well, it iiienis a pretiy 
 name, for it is ;i pretty pl.ice. The p-ader may 
 possibly get the idea that the term "pretty 
 place" is jrettiiig somewhat monotonous in 
 these paj^es, hut lie must remember that there 
 .'ire various degrees of b<';uity in pl;ices as well 
 as people. Resides, such adjectives as " pretty," 
 when applied to places, and "beautiful," when 
 applied to scenery, are too convenient to be 
 ignored for the sake of synonyms in less gen- 
 eral use. Truro, therefore, is pretty, and every 
 visitor must cndorsi- the st;itement. Its long, 
 widi- streets are .idorncd with shade trees, the 
 houses have 1,'iwns and llower gardens beauti- 
 fully arranged, ,'uid tln' entirn town presents .i 
 ne;it ;ind attracli\f appear.ance. Yet the town 
 is more th.m gofid looking; it is .active and 
 enterprising. (Miite .1 number of factories, of 
 various kinds, are in operation, and otiiers are 
 projected. The stores do a brisk business: 
 some of the merchants are direct importers to 
 a large amount; and, as a whole, the eonu.ier- 
 <ial aspect ni.'ikes a favorable impression on 
 tlie mind fif the visitor. The po[Hilation of the 
 town is between live and six thou.sand. Thi' 
 I'rovincial, Normal and Model schools are note- 
 worthy features of the 'place, while numerous 
 other buildings of ;i sulistantial ch.aractcr .arc 
 fuuiul in the various streets. Hotels, too, are 
 abundant. .Several arc located near the station, 
 but the " frince of W.ales," in the upper part 
 of the town, has the most pleasant location for 
 tourists. It is situated near the County build- 
 ings and faces the public squ.ire. 
 
 While at Parrsbort^, the visitor had a chance 
 ')( looking up lo Cobequid !'av. Krom Truro 
 he <'an reverse the picture and look down. l?y 
 ascending Pi-nny's ^Mcnmiain, three miles from 
 the Co\u£ House, a s[)iendid view is had of the 
 bay, taking in the range of the North Moun- 
 tains, terminating at Bloniidon, while the river 
 meanders gracefully through the v;illey on its 
 way to the troublerl waters of Fundy. l>om 
 Wollaston Heights, a mile from the Cour^ 
 Hous<', is fotmd another fme view of the sur- 
 rounding country, while the best views of the 
 town, down to the bav, are had from Wim- 
 
 burn and l-'oimdry HilN, A drive to Clifton 
 will be foimd of interest, .stopping at .Savage » 
 Island, a mile .-md a half from the town. Here 
 arc the: trac I of a former Indian burial grounrl, 
 but this circumstance did not give rise to tin- 
 n.ame of the isl.uul. It was called after an olil- 
 timc owner of the soil — a .Savage by name, but 
 not by ti;iturc. The wooden monuments of the 
 anilent rat e can still be seen ; .uid ;i! times ihc 
 tide, washing away portions of the bank, lays 
 bare the bones of those long since ileparteil 
 "to the Kingdom of I'onem.ih." The Shuben- 
 acadie has a bore, simil.ar to that of thi; I'eti- 
 tfodiac \vhi( h tnay be seen rushing past the 
 island. .After one has seen water coming up 
 lure, he can return to Truro and see it going 
 down, in a pi<tures(|ue cascade, on Leper's 
 Iiro('k, lialf .1 mile from the town. No ont 
 seems to know how this brook got its peculiar 
 name, but as then is no record of any lepers 
 in this part of Canada, the word is jirobably a 
 I'orruption of some French name. It m.ay b 
 from Lapt'r, lo laji, or from Laf>i:ri\ui, a yomv 
 r.ibbit, or from one of a do.cen other words. It 
 doesn't m.ake .my differen<e. Another curiou.- 
 name is that of Bible Hill, which is a beautiful 
 p;irt of .''luro. Sam Mick spoke of it as "a 
 situation of most (onsummalc beauty," and he 
 w.as a good judge of nature— as well as cf 
 human nature. 
 
 If one has not seen the .Acadi.ui .^bncs. ;i 
 drive to them from Truro, a dist.anee of 20 
 miles, is well worth the trouble. The ro.ad is 
 good ;uid the scenery tine. Another drive of 
 20 miles over Tatam.agouche Mountains to 
 F;irm Lake takes one through .a rich v.ariet\ 
 of motmtaiti scenery. .•Ml the trees of the for- 
 est <ire to be seen on the road, at times on 
 lofty hills, at times in plea.s.ant vales. In m.iny 
 places the branches over-arch the ro.ad. and 
 amid these umbrageous shades, the voices of 
 the l)irds and the nuisic of the brooks fall:, 
 sweetly on the ear. At the lake, elevated over 
 ,'i thous.ind feet abo\e the sea, the fisherman 
 m.ay enjoy a calm content .amid Nature's beaur 
 ties, and h.ive a further ri-ward in an abuiuLance 
 of excellent trout. L.ike trout of the best cpial- 
 ity are found in all of the numerous lakes in 
 this vicinity. 
 
 Tlie fisliing .iroiiud 'I'niro is chielly confined 
 to trout. .Salmon exist, but the pursuit of them 
 is usually under difticultie.^. Sometimes thev 
 t;ikc the tly, but more, times they don't, 'ihe 
 North and .Salmon Rivers have been re-stocked 
 from the government establishment at Bedford, 
 and will doubtless afford good sport, in time. 
 In the latter river fish known .is graylings are 
 • caught in large quantities. Some allege that 
 
/'Dirv A.\/0.\G THE COAL AJ/.VHS. 
 
 JT 
 
 Mines, a 
 e of 20 
 roiid is 
 ri\e i)f 
 liiis i<; 
 varii't) 
 f fnr- 
 imes on 
 n nwmy 
 ul, and 
 oices of 
 ks fall:- 
 icd over 
 luTnian 
 bcaur 
 jundancc 
 )fsl qual- 
 nkes in 
 
 rnntint'tl 
 
 t of iheni 
 
 ines thev 
 
 I't. TlK- 
 
 -stocked 
 
 Bedford. 
 
 in time. 
 
 lings are 
 
 Uge that 
 
 this TlsIi is a trout and others that it is ;i yoiin,({ 
 salmon. Whatever it may be, it is a lively fish 
 under the rod. It ran^fcs from two lo.xi.'c poimds 
 
 in wei.vflit, When l.-ir^v salmon .ire eaMv:ht in 
 this river, it is m the m<pnth of August. Nom- 
 of the Nova Seotia river.«> are under lease for 
 s.ilmoi). and it costs nothintf to try one's hiek. 
 which may, at Mines. proNe very goixl. The 
 Sluihenacadie and Stev iacke Rivers .ire worth 
 ;i trial, ami Crystal Lake, near Urooktield, has 
 atfonlrd sport in the past. In the last named 
 rivers the ""Admiral " is the favorite fly. Tront 
 and KT-'iyli'ig are found m the streams already 
 named, in the Folly ;iiul Uehert KiveiS, and in 
 Folly. Lake. The fatter is ,1 pretty sheet of 
 water with dusters of islands, ami boats are 
 kept for the use of visitors. This Like has al.so 
 leen stocked with white fish from Ontario. The 
 " Red Hackle " is a good tly for .my of the lakes; 
 the" Urown Hackle" is good inalli)l;ices; while 
 the "May Fly" does excellent service in the 
 early part of the sea.son. 
 
 A thick forest covers almost all of the range 
 of moimtjiins from Truro to Taiamagouche 
 Jiay, .-md n.aur.illy .itfords good s|)ort. The 
 iK-st moose ground, hcjwevcr, is .imong the 
 Stewiacke Moiint.iins, commencing, say, four- 
 teen miles from the town. Johnson's Crossing, 
 live miles, and Riversdale, twelve miles, have 
 also good reputations. Caribou are migratory, 
 and not to be depended on, but a I'kcly place 
 for them is at J'emliruke, twenty-three miles 
 distant. Indian guides can be hired in Truro 
 lor about a doll.ir a day. Th-y will do all the 
 -ookiiig and camp work, and are to be relied 
 '>n in matters of woodcraft, 
 
 Partridge are plenty, ;ind after the l.-itter part 
 4 July, snipe, plo\er, and curlew may be bag- 
 ged on the marshes within a hundred yards 
 i)f the Court House. Ducks, geese, and bnuit, 
 frequent the Lakes in the fall and spring. 
 
 The most profitable kind of game in this 
 ' ounty is the fox. The s'\Wvx .-.i;.! ,ray rey- 
 n.'irds are not to be desjiised ; ■ .. hat rare 
 .ind \;du;ible creature, the black fo.x, means 
 something over ;i hundred dolLars a pelt. One 
 of the residents struck a bonanza last winter 
 by trapping four of them, and exchanged their 
 skins for over four hundred doll.irs in cash. 
 It is but just to add that bkick foxes are not 
 sufficiently numerous to be a nuisance to the 
 farmers, nor is the trapping of them to be c!;^- 
 iiended on as a permanent means of li\-elihood. 
 
 DOWN AMONt; THE C(.>AL MINES. 
 
 The branch of the Intercolonial which joins 
 die main line at 'IVuro, passes through the 
 
 most excensi\e of ti>e \o\,-i ScfJtia coal-lields, 
 and ends ;it I'irtou, on the Gulf of .St. Law- 
 rence. Coal is king in this ji.irt of ih.: cf>untry. 
 and to sp(!ak ot a •rcspciii-(^ rcsiiknt as a 
 " Carboniferous " man. is simply a coinplimint 
 C(iuivalent to " as good asgojtl " in other pl.ices. 
 It answers the same iiurpose to sa\ th.it his 
 I'onduct as a <,'iti/.en is solidly " b.ascil tipfdi 
 conglomer.ite and amygd.aloidal trap:" it is 
 purely a matter of t.iste as to which is the 
 mofe elegant term. 
 
 Xova Scotia is ;i \'ery i-,-irbon'l'erous soi't if 
 country. Coal seams .ire found in a great maiu' 
 places, while in some itist.inces the de])osits 
 are something of which the term "immense" 
 gives the best conception of tlie area and 
 depth. The strata seen at the .loggins mines, 
 where the sea washes the cliffs, is saiil to 1k' 
 the best display of the kind in the -,vorld. The 
 I'ictou field i« a continuation (i( the same field 
 — the jjreat Nrjva .Scolia Coat tield, with its 
 j'j seams of coal an<l a thickness of no less 
 than 14.750 feet of deposits. It took a long 
 time for all this to form. It was so long ago, 
 that every kind of animal which roamed in the 
 forests of the perioil luis oeen extinct for thou- 
 sands of years. 'S'cs, the ''o.al tields ;ire pretty 
 old ; it took ages to form e.u-h one of the seams ; 
 and yet whrn the fisherman barks his shins on 
 the granite rocks of the NeiMsiguit he feels 
 something a go" I deal older th.an the coal. It 
 may mitigate his wrath and repress his profan- 
 ity to know that he is bruised by what was 
 part of the botluin of an -ccan, " before a sin- 
 gle plant had been called into e.xistence of the 
 myriads entombed in -the coal deposits." So 
 it will be seen that coal is (|uilc a pai-.i-itu, as 
 comparerl with some of the old geological fam- 
 ilies ; but it is old enough for all practical pur- 
 poses where man is concerned. 
 
 To say that the scenery along the line from 
 Truro to New Glasgow is m;ignilicent. would 
 be an unwarrantable departure from the stand- 
 ard of ]irobity elevated by the late talented 
 projirietor of Mt. \'crnon. \'irginia. It is not 
 intei'esting, and that is all that is necessary to 
 
4-' 
 
 /yrJiNt V ;/.( ).\7.i,'. A'. U/.ll .IV I '/•• C.IX.UKI. 
 
 I)c; »;»i'l. Sn M.iriim, whrrc <iome «)f ihc cfle- 
 hratci! mil mines arc siliiatfd, is forty milis 
 from Tniii), and ihrce niili"* iH'vonil this is 
 
 Ni:\V C.LASC.oW. 
 
 Tlii: tiaiiu'n of tlie piaic and i)f its risultiiis 
 arc in ininplfte liarniony. Hirer, as in hiIut 
 parts ()( Pictiiu Loiiniy, cviTyliuiiK is as cssi n- 
 lially Sidti'lj .xs it I'aii be aliir a j^rowtii of a 
 KMilur)* on tht: soil (if Aincrira. ' )k| ami itn- 
 tniiiial ii, lines in Sinilatid's histnry adorn shup 
 alter sin i|i and di'seciulanisnf itmse win. foui^iit 
 with Urine and Wallaee stand In-hind the emni- 
 ters, sinTdimdcd hy all tht; insii^'nia nf peaie, 
 Ni'W (UaMNiw IS a tovvti in uliiili a >;rcat deal 
 tif industry is manifest. Many rtne vessels 
 liave been bnilt here, and Iron Works, Steel 
 Works anil Cilass Works speak nms' favorably 
 for its enterprise. It has sonio tine buildin;Ljs, 
 the Masonic ll.ill amoni; the nnniber, and a 
 lull sii[)ply of hotels, The Halifa.K and Cape 
 Hreton R.iil\\;iy runs from lure to the Str.iii of 
 C'anse.iii, and affords an easy means of com- 
 mnnieatinn with the island of Cape Hretfin. 
 
 Tlie nearest place from which a vjood view 
 of the snrronndiii;,' country can be li.id is Kra- 
 ser's Mountain, about a mile and a half from 
 the tow n. 'I'his view takes in I'rince Kdward 
 Island. I'ictou and Pietou Island, and ilown 
 the shore as far as Cape St. (leorye, besides 
 th<! country in the rear. He who wants to see 
 eoal mines .and sorne good scenery as well 
 shoulddrive to.Sfi'llarton, throu;;ii the collieries, 
 <'.iilinjr also at .Middle Ki\i-r ami windiniif 
 U]^ at I'itzpatriek's Mount.iin, (ireen Hill. 
 From the. latter place the nnintry cm be sem 
 in all direi lions for a ilistance of somethini;' 
 like forty miles. A drive to Little Harbor, six 
 or seven miles, and a bathe in the salt-water 
 is al.so "not liard to take." .\t .Sutherlands 
 River, six miles dist.int, is a tine waterfall 
 with picturesque surroundings. 
 
 tientle re.nder, were you e\cr in a coal mine? 
 If ikH, and not likely to be, get some able bod- 
 ied friend, a tub .aiid ;i roiie, and allow the far- 
 mer to lower the latter and yourself into a dark, 
 damp and iMi over clean cell.ir where there is 
 a ctKil bin. This method is cheap, safe anil 
 eonvenient, and has nian\ points of resem- 
 blance to the genuine article. If you must 
 visit a mine, however, visit one of those in 
 Pietou County. You will have no trouble in 
 tinding one, and after rambling among t!ie 
 darkness a thousand feet or so under the earth, 
 vnu will feel giad to see daylieht again. Some 
 one has s.iid that no one can appreciate colil 
 water so we'l as a man who suffers from the 
 thirst following .1 debauch; im one can better 
 
 rrali/f the iHijiiity of green fields, the blfusjng 
 of pure air, and the glory of the sunlight than 
 one who has been down among the eoal 
 mines. 
 
 PICIMI 
 
 is an "ill, important ;md will-known town, 
 The railw.ay runs to within a mile of it. and the 
 rest ' ' journey is performetl by a steanter 
 aeri; L.irbor. This is .a pleasant irip, for 
 
 the tiarKor is a beautiful and well sheltered 
 one — the best in this p.irt of Nova Scotia. 
 The town, rising on a hill, tnakesa particularly 
 good appe.ir.ince from tin- water, A closer 
 inspection shows .some line buildings, such ,is 
 the Custom House, Court House, Christian 
 Association lUiilding, I'lctoii Academy, the 
 Convent, Ch.ipel, and ,'i number of Churches, 
 Ves.sels of all sizes anil rigs ;ire in the harbi-r 
 and at the wharves, and tlu scene is .iltogether 
 an inspiriting one. The town does a large 
 slii[)ping business, ami \;ist ipi mtitics of coal 
 .ire sent frmn here to plates ne.ir and far. 
 liusiness of other kinds Is brisk, and large 
 numbers oi travellers visit the |)lace during the 
 sumnv Two lines of steamers run to Prime 
 Edw ^land-the ]'. K, I. Steam Naviga- 
 
 tion kc four trips a week and the (iulf 
 
 Ports Line two trips. The former also run to 
 Cape Jlreton and the latter to (Jucbec, calling 
 at intermediate port.s. 
 
 Some good scenery m.iy be luimd in the 
 vicinity of Pietou. In the town an adminible 
 view of the surrounding country ;uk1 the w.-it^rs 
 to the north and cast may be enjoyed from the 
 roof of the Academy Drives in the vicinity 
 of East, West and Middle Rivers will also 
 re|)ay one. I''itz]xitriik's Mountain and Green 
 Hill h.'ive already been mentioned, and another 
 good view is from Mount Thorn. Anotlier 
 liiive is down the shore to Caribou Point and 
 between Caribou River and River John, For 
 b.'ithing, a good place is at Caribou Cove, less 
 th.in two miles from the town, when: there is 
 ;i tine s.andy bcieh. Other good bai hing places 
 and good views m;iy also be found with little 
 troul)le. The eoimty, with its low l.iiid along 
 the shore and hills and v.alleys m the interior, 
 its lakes and its rivers, has many scenes of 
 real beauty for the lover of Nature, 
 
 The fishing in the county is ehielly contiiud 
 to trout. Salmon enter the streams only in 
 the spawning season, about the ist of Sep- 
 tember, and go out before the ice begins to 
 form. 
 
 The trout streams are Barney's French, 
 Sutherland Rivers and Rivr John. These 
 ha\e good "^ea trout during the summer. 
 
 11 
 
two ,UUK/( .\f ,l\/> .l\ f ,<K\'/S//. 
 
 4.\ 
 
 Mid'lli' and West Kivrrn Jiave «inall riiiiH of 
 trout, but, taKcH m a wholf, the rivtrs in this 
 vicinity hiivc litrn pretty wtll "fishtvl out" 
 Fine tnnit arc, however, taken at iimcs in 
 M.ipic iinti NkQuanic-'s Lakivs. Mr. I'm h.'ini, 
 of New ('•laxx'iA, is lishcry mrrseer, and will 
 he alijc ti> "p(i-.t" \i>itorsiisto the best places. 
 SiMiic >{<K)(1 .spurt piav 1)1- fmind in fishinx f'^r 
 mackerel, cdd, etc., nn the cuaht. 
 
 The founiry to the southwaril of Pictoii ha.<t 
 an .il)iitidanco «»f moose. Let one t.ike a trip, 
 with j^iiidc^, lr<>n> West Kiver, thmnvjli (ikn- 
 jjarry. Stewiaekc, Nelson's and Sundy Ilrae, 
 and over to Caledonia, or (niysboro, and he is 
 prctfy sure to have f.iir luck. Caribou i\u 
 louiid at times, but 'uoosc is the chief jjarne to 
 l)e relied on. Hears are j)lenty. and .so are 
 partridge. .Mnn.i; the shore, snipe, plover, 
 curlew, yi'isc and all kinds of ducks are found 
 in larye numbers. 
 
 ANNO MIR I !• M. 
 
 Soniewh ;c around this part of Nova Scotia 
 the sirani;er may be fortunate enough to tiud 
 Miu of the very oldest inhabit.inls who was an 
 lye-wilness to those most extraordinary e\cnt.s 
 which happened in the \ - ar of the Mice. The 
 younger generation appear to know little about 
 it. though it \vaN a mernurable epocii in the 
 liistory of the country. It was, in fact, a 
 plague of mice, which visited Fictou, Colchester 
 ■md Anligonish, as well as Prince T.dward 
 Island. As long .igo as 1699, Dicrvillc wrote 
 that the latter place had a plague either of 
 mice or locusts every seven years, but in more 
 modern times the [ihenomenon has b.xn wit- 
 Hi-ssed but once. That once was enrugh. 
 
 It was in the year iBij that the micc^ook a 
 "Grand Tarewell Benefit," in the presence of 
 ;i lari'.- biit far from ;t.(lmiring audience. They 
 began to show liiemsdvos at that period in the 
 year when the Spring Poet warbles and the 
 saj) runs from the maples. Hy jilanting time 
 their numbers had augmented to an extent 
 which struck terror to the hearts of the people ; 
 and the cry was, "Still they come!" They 
 were not little field mice, such as Burns has 
 iinmorrali/.ed, but were more nearly of the si/.c 
 '.f rats. If Burns had been there he would not 
 I'.'ive stopped to write poetry, but would have 
 got out a field nailer and crushed them by the 
 ihousimd. They ate everything that mice can 
 eai, ;uid nearly ate up the people, for when 
 molested they sat on their haunches and 
 stjuciled dctiance with their giistcnmg teeth 
 laid bare. As witli the rats at Hamelin Town 
 in Brimswick : 
 
 I III \ >ii|jht (he (io(;« and killeil the cats, 
 Made iivitii Inslile men''* '^unlay luiis, 
 \r»cl i'V«rn spoilrd thv wkuk'hN »;hnt.s, 
 
 Hy ^hril!kin;r and .sqtieiiUin|; 
 III fifty (iiU'crciil »har|m nnii (liils.'' 
 
 It lo<pk a brave dnjj to f.n-e .a mob of them, 
 and ordinary lilts proved that gooil gcrieralsthip 
 is often shown by a timely .and skilful retreat. 
 Dr. Patterson, in his History of Pictou, is 
 authority for the st.itement ,1 f.irnur ;ittenipteil 
 to now oats al Merigomish, and w.'is disgusted 
 to tind th.'it the mice ate them as fast as he 
 sowed. Finding ih.at his labor simply amount- 
 ed ;o feeding part of a hungry horde, he tin. illy 
 got 'Ut of p;iticnce, threw all his oats at them 
 and wci'^ home in intense disgust. .Spreading 
 over th<* country as the season advanced, they 
 devoured all before them. Acres were strippefi 
 of growinff crops, and still tire mice grew and 
 their appetites iiu reased ,i|).'ice. Trenches were 
 dug. ;md all sorts of expedients resoi'ed to, 
 but in vain. The mice question bei. nie an 
 absorbing one, when all at once the intruders 
 made up their minds to get up and get. But, 
 like the army of .Napoleon in Russia, and the 
 f(jl!owi:rs of Ue Soto to the .Mississippi, deatli 
 marched in their midst. Thousands of those 
 that had achieved such brilli.uil coiKjuests lay 
 down ;iiul ilied. Thousands more re.u heil tlie 
 sea-shore, but only to die. All along the 
 coast their bodies lay piled up in masses like 
 lines of sea-weed, and for many \«ef.ks the tish 
 caught in the bays were found to have their 
 maws filled with the remains of the annihilated 
 army of mice. 
 
 For many years after this remarkable visi- 
 tation, it was the custom of many of the people 
 to reckfin births, marriages, deaths, etc., as 
 being such and such ii time after the year- of 
 the mice, .ln/ii- Miiriiiiii took the place of 
 Anno Domini : but as succeeding generations 
 grew up, this system of chronology became 
 obsolete ; .uid it has long sinie eeaseii to be 
 known, save to the ones who "were there and 
 helped kill 'em." 
 
 A N T I ( ; N 1 S II . 
 
 If you want to fiiu! abic-ljodied men. t.ike 
 the H. iK: C. 15. Kailw.-iv and go to .\ntigonish. 
 Here you will find the descendants of lligh- 
 l.anders who look able for all comers. Si.x feet 
 ;ind odd inches tall are they, and stout in pro- 
 portion. 
 
 Antigonish is called the prettiest village in 
 F.astern Nova Scotia. Its neat, tidy dwellings 
 stand amid beautiful shade trees on low ground, 
 wfiile the hills rise in graceful cones near at 
 
 "\ 
 
 If' 
 
 ..il. 
 
 ' 
 
44 
 
 jyrilRCOLOMAL RAILWAY OF CA.XADA. 
 
 hand. Aninny; these h'lls arc sweet and pleas- 
 ant valleys and the brooks are as clear as 
 crystal. The village is the capital of the 
 county, ami is also the seat of the Bishop of 
 Arichal. St. Ninian's Cathefl!;ii is a fine 
 edifice, built of stone and treited at a large 
 expense. It is said to seat about 1,200 persons. 
 St. Francois Xavier Coller,'e is situated near it, 
 and has a larjje attendance. The community 
 is lar.nily composed of Scotch Catholics, and 
 as many of the older people speak Gaelic only, 
 sermons are preaclied in that as well as the 
 Knglish lanjjuaifc. 'l"he harbor is eight miles 
 from the villaii^e and has a good, though rather 
 shallow, beach. The \-iliage has several hotels. 
 
 banks rise .abruptly from it .and have ;i verv 
 beautiful effect. It was of this Lake that the 
 late Hon. Joseph Howe said, 
 
 '• I'.ir clowM llie aiu'u'iit trees reflected lie, 
 Sleiii, branch ami k;if, like faity tr:icery, 
 Wave 'n)un<l the homes (jf sf)me em liaiitiri" race. 
 The f;uar(Ii.in nymiihs of iliis (lelii,-litfiil plac.-." 
 
 The Sherhrooke road is a good way by 
 which to reach .some of the fishing and hunt- 
 ing grounds of Ciuysboro. My .going about 20 
 miles St. Mary"s River is reached, at the Forks. 
 Here there is good fishing, all along the river, 
 and good accommodation may be had at Stew- 
 art's hotel, Melrose, From here to the Still- 
 
 iiji 
 
 ii 
 
 
 KAI.I.S OK rUK lARTA-ilK Kl\i:K. 
 
 Those who liki! a qc.iet and home-likt; pl.ace 
 sliMuM go to Airs. Randall's. 
 
 Though the word "Antigonish " means Big 
 Fish River, yet the fishing in this vicinity does 
 not amount to nuicii. The .shooting, also, is 
 poor, but good scenery is plenty. The " Lords 
 Day ("lale" ai'.d other storms have done a 
 large amount of injury to the forests, but 
 enough beauty remains to satisfy the sight- 
 seer. ]'>y ;ill odds, the most attraetive sp'it is 
 at Fochabcr I.ake, on the road to Sherbrooke, 
 si.\- miles from the village. This lake is about 
 si.v miles long and the load runs along its bank 
 for the entire distance, amid foliage of tlie 
 niost attractive character. The water is very 
 deep, and rcmark.ably ( lear and pure, while the 
 
 water Sahnoe I'ools is seven nules, and some 
 fine -salmon may be caughl. Accommodation 
 is furnished by John .Archibald. Sherbrook, 
 a few milts lower down, is a very pretty place, 
 and here om- iriay catch not cly fine sea 
 trout, but salmon ranging from fifteen to forty 
 pounds in weight. The fiy best suited to this 
 river is one with light yellow body and dark 
 yellow wings. In the other salmon rivers the 
 "Admiral " is a favorite, a.s well a^ another 
 with turkey wing, gray body and golden 
 phe.isant tail. C"iuysho-o Lakes have fine 
 trout in them. The mountains of this county, 
 too, are the haunts of nio(;sc and caribou. It 
 is an e.Kcellent country for sport. 
 
 F'lUowing the railway from Antigonish one 
 
CAPF. nRi-rroN. 
 
 45 
 
 
 llatinn 
 
 fortv 
 
 this 
 (kirk 
 s the 
 jiher 
 jldeii 
 fine 
 iintv, 
 It 
 
 may stop at 'riacafiic, where tliere is a fine 
 harbor and a splendid view of St. George's 
 Bay and the liiilf. There is fair fishing in the 
 viriiiitv. Here there is a 'lYappist Monasterv, ' 
 the brothers of which have mills in operation 1 
 and arc also expert farmers. Nearly all the ; 
 land in tiic county is fertile, and fruit can be | 
 raised with j^ood success. There is also an 
 Indian l\eservaiion at Tracadie. and plenty of 
 the aborij^ines are fomui aloni; the shore. 
 
 The naihvay runs down to the Strait of 
 Canseau amid picturesciue mountains, with fine 
 views of the l^iy to the north, as far as Cape 
 .St. (ieor^re. Tiie road is a very easy one, well 
 etiuipped and makes t^ood time. On reaching 
 Pirates' H, arbor, a l)rakesman puz/.les the trav- 
 eller by shouting, " Strait of (.'ansran I .\11 who 
 aregoing to Lake the boat stay .iboard this car ! " 
 This does not mean that the car ,and the boat 
 cross o''er in company, but that the train will 
 nm up to Port Mulgrave, the deep water termi- 
 nus, licfore going, however, one will want to . 
 .see a little of this side of this famous Strait. 
 
 The Strait of Canseau, the gre.at highway 
 between the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the 
 Aorth Atlantic coast, is some fourteen miles 
 in length ruirtabout a mile in width. It is of 
 itself a picture worth coming far to see, on 
 account of its natur.al be;uity ; but when on a 
 summer's day hundreds of sail are passing 
 through, the scene is one to delight an artist's 
 soul. On the Nova Scotia side the land is 
 high and affords a glorious view, both of the 
 Strait and of the western section of Ca])e 
 Ikctoii. The prospect both iij> and down the 
 strait is pleasing in the e.s.treme. 
 
 .'Kt Pirates' Harbor a comfortable hotel is kept 
 liy Mrs. Maguire. There is e.veellent bathing 
 in the vicinity ,ind .sotiu- bold and im]M'i-ssive 
 scenery. Some fair trout tisliing may be found 
 near at hand. Morrison's L.ake, which lies 
 under the shadow of Mount Porcupine, is two 
 miles from the wharf, and is reached by an 
 ea.sy road. Jiig Tnn adie Pake is three and a 
 half miles distant ; and Chlsholm's Pake lies 
 between the one last mentioned and the high- 
 way. The road is .a good one .and through a 
 settlevl coimtry. To the southward of the 
 wharf are tite (loose Harbor Lakes, a chain 
 which extends f'om three miles beyond Pir.ates' 
 Harbor t(p the sou! hern coast of Guysboro. 
 Mr. S. T. Hall, St.ation .\gent .it Mulgrave, 
 will be found a good authority as to the fishing 
 in the county, as well as on other subjects. 
 
 C APK PR i; TON . 
 
 The limits of this work will allow but a pass- 
 ing glance at this valuable portion of Nova 
 
 Scotia — a place which retains m. much of its 
 natural and primeval beauty, and whii'h evokes 
 the warmest praises from all who journey over 
 its face or traverse its noble waters. 
 
 Takiiig the IP \- C. P. Railw.iy steamer at 
 Mulgra\e, the trip across the strait is soon 
 made. On the way a headland to the north- 
 ward, on the Nova .Scotia side, will attract 
 some attention. It is Cape Porcupine, and 
 from its summit tlie telegraph wires once 
 crossed to Plaister C(j\'e, high o\ . the w.aters. 
 Phe strongest of wires were us.-d, but breaks 
 would occur at limes and then all cable busi- 
 ness between England and .America, by the 
 way of Newfoundland, had to w'ail until the 
 break was repaired. Submarine c.ibks .are 
 now used and give less trouble. Arriving at 
 Port llawkesbury the traveller can take the 
 steamship " Powerful," which makes daily con- 
 nections with trains, and lanils jiassengers at 
 the head of East Pay, ten miles from Sydney. 
 The "Neptune" makes a trip every second 
 d.iy. These steamers call at St. Peter's Canal, 
 and then proceed up the fanii'd Pras D'Or. 
 
 Who can describe the beauties of this .strange 
 ocean lake, this imprisoned sea which divides 
 an isl.and in twain ? For a!)out fifyy miles its 
 waters .ire shelterid from the ocean of which 
 it forms a part, and in this length it exjjands 
 into bays, inlets, and romantic havens, with 
 islands, peninsulas and broken lim s of coast — 
 all combining to form a scene uf rare beauty, 
 surpassing the power of pen to describe. \t 
 every turn new features claim our wonder and 
 admir.ition. Here a clu.ster of fair\- isles, here 
 some meandering stream, and here some nar- 
 row strait leading into a broad and pe.acefn! 
 bay. High above tower the mountains, with 
 their ancient forests, while .it times bold cliffs, 
 crowned with verdure, rise majestically lowrird 
 the clouds. Nothing is common, nothing tame ; 
 all is litted to till the mind with emotions of 
 keenest pleasure. 
 
 Sydney is an old and eminently respectable 
 town. The Sydney coal is known wherever 
 coal is burned, and the quantity of this article 
 avaikable in the coal fields of the island is 
 estimated at a thousand million tons. This 
 does not include seams under four feet in 
 thickness, nor the vast body of coal which lies 
 under the bed of the ocean between C.ijie 
 lireton .md New foinidland. Sydney has a 
 splendid harbor, .and is a c()aling port for ocean 
 steamers. It is a pleasant place to visit, and is 
 well supplied with hotels and private boarding 
 houses. The largest are the Mackeiuie and 
 Intercolonial. 
 
 North Sydney is a lively business place, and 
 
 III one 
 
J . 
 
c.irr-: nRF.rox. 
 
 ■\7 
 
 is readied frf)iii Sydney by :i ferry sieaiiier, 
 makinjif three trips daily, and by a daily stajL^e. 
 Staijcs also run Ut ('.lace 15ay, T.int^an, Cow 
 Hay, and all other points of interest. The 
 ehief lioiels at Nf>rth Sytlney are tln> I'resto and 
 lielmoiit. 
 
 While space will not allow even a mention 
 of many of tlic places of interest in Cape 
 Ureton. there is one which merits more than a 
 jjassinu; notice. It is Louisbourg, once one of 
 the strongest fortified cities of the wf)rld, but 
 now a grass-grown ruin where not one stf.ne 
 is left upon another. Once it was a city with 
 walls of stone whicli made a circuit of two and 
 a half miles, were thirty-six fc(>t lii^'i- arid of 
 the thickness of forty feet at the b.-ise. For 
 twenlv-l'ive years the French had labored i;pon 
 it. and h.id ex[)ended upwards of thiity millions 
 of livres in comnlelin.sj its defences. It was 
 called the Dunkirk of America, darrisoned 
 by the veterans of France, and with powerful 
 batteries conimandinij every p(Miit, it bristled 
 with the most potent ]iride of war. To-day it 
 is difficuk to trace its site among the turf 
 which marks the ruins. Seldom h.is demolition 
 been more complete. It seemed built for all 
 lime; it has vanished from tlic face of earth. 
 
 F.very New Knglander should \isit Louis- 
 bourg. Its capture by the undisciplined New 
 England farmers, commanded by William 
 i'epperal, a merchant ignorant of the art 
 of war, is one of the most extraordinary 
 events in the annais of history. The zealous 
 crusaders set forth upon a task, of the difficul- 
 ties of which they had no conception, and they 
 '.gained a triumph which should make tlieir 
 names as immortal as those of the " noble six 
 hundred." It was ,i feat wiihouta parallel — a 
 marvel among t4ie most marvelous deeds whieti 
 man has dared co do. 
 
 Restored to France by the jieacx' of Aix la 
 Chapelle, Louisliourg was again thestronglMild 
 of l-"rance on the Atlantic coast, and French 
 veterans held Cape Iketon, the key to the (lulf 
 of St. Lawrence. The brief truce was boon 
 broken, and then came the armies of Fngkind, 
 md Wolfe sought and won his first laurels in 
 tlic new wiirld. Louisboiirg fell 'inee more 
 and the knell of its glory was rung. The con- 
 ipiest of Canada acliieved, the edict went fortli 
 that I.ouisbourg should t)e destroyed. The 
 work of demolition was comnunced. The 
 •^nlitl buildings, formed of stone brought from 
 r raiice. were torn to pieces ; the walls were 
 pulled down, and the batteries renciered useless 
 for all time. It look two years to complete the 
 work of destruction, and then the once jirotid 
 city was a shapdess ruin, ^'ears |)as;-ed b\' ; 
 
 the stones were carried away bv the dweHers 
 along the coast ; and the hand of time w.as left 
 to finish the work of (ibiiteration. Time has 
 been m<ire merciful than ni.an ; it has covered 
 tlie gloomy ruins with a mantle of green and 
 has herded tho gaping wounds wliicii once ren- 
 dered ghastly the land which Nature tnaile so 
 fair. The surges of the Atlantic sound inourn- 
 fully uiion the shore — tiie retiuieni of I.oiiis- 
 bourg, the city made desolate. 
 
 Another I.ouisbourg rxist» to-day, across the 
 harbor from the site of the former city. It has 
 a population of about looo and is reached by 
 the Sydney dt Louisbourg Railway, a narrow 
 gauge line, 31 mil'.'s in length. The fare from 
 Sydney is only 75 cents and tourists should 
 make the trip. Some fim; scenery is found on 
 the roail at Catalone Lake and Mire. The 
 Louisbourg Land Co.'s J{otcl affords good 
 aci:omiiiodation ; and apart from its historic 
 interest the place is worthy of a visit. The 
 site of old Louisbourg may be visileil and the. 
 lines of some of the fortitlcations traced, and 
 one who ha> a liistory which gives a good 
 account of the sieges may be interested and 
 instructed in following out the ji'.ins of the 
 attacking parties. Then there is ;\ magnificent 
 harbor which opens on. the broad ocean, and 
 one may -^njoy all th'' pleasure.- of life by the 
 sea-shore. The views are admirable, and alto- 
 gether a large amount of pleasure may be had. 
 
 Lake Ainslie and the Margnrie River are 
 great tishing resorts on the Island, having both 
 salmon and trout. They are reached by going 
 to Port Hastings and travelling from twentv 
 10 thirty-fne miles, by road. River Dennis, 
 another good locality, is reached by taking one 
 of the Bras D'Or steamers to Whycocoinogh, 
 Other good tisliing may be had in the various 
 streams of the Island. 
 
 The cotmties of Inverness .ind X'ictoria oc- 
 cupy the northern part .if Cape Breton, and are 
 to a great extent wi'd and unsettled. Taking 
 the steamer to Baddcck a few hours' journey 
 will lake one into a 1 ountry where moose and 
 caribou are (ilenty, ;md w here he may either 
 canjp out among the mountains in the depth 
 of the fonst or m.ake hi'; hearl-quarttrs amo--'- 
 the Well-to-do farmers in the occasional sett 
 meiits. 
 
 Cape North and i, ape St. Lawrence arc tin; 
 extreme northerly points of the islaixi <ind 
 from the former to Newfoundland is a little 
 over sixty miles. TlTe ocean cable is landed 
 at Aspy Bay. 
 
 From Cape St. Lawrence it is.only lilt\- miles 
 to the Magdalen Isl.ands. These waters have 
 seen terribli- flestructicn of life and prnpertv. 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 li 
 
48 
 
 I.\7y-:NC0L0.\1AL K.U/.UMV OF CANADA. 
 
 One of the most notable was the Lord's Day 
 (lale, of 23d August, 1S73, \vlii( h carried' 
 mourning to theliomes of so many fishermen's 
 families in Massachusetts and the J'rovjnces. 
 Traces ( f this ierril>le ;4riie are to be found ail 
 alont;- the shores on tiiis part uf the (inlf. Tin- 
 graphic description In' E. C. Stedmau is onlv 
 loo faittifi I 
 
 Cape llrotou aiv! l'"(lwuril Isle between, 
 In str.-ul and ^ulf ihc scliooners lay; 
 
 The sen was all at pitace, I wceu, 
 Th'.; night liefore that Augu.^t day; 
 
 Was i.evcr a ( iKnuotcr skipper there, 
 
 ]UU tlioUj^ht erelong, with a ri5;ht i^ood fav--, 
 T" "ail for home from St. Lawrence Jiny. 
 
 The East Wind i^atherid all unknown, — 
 A thick sca-eloud his course before ; 
 
 He left by right the frozen zone 
 A.id smote the cliffs of Labrador; 
 
 lie lashed the coast on either hand, 
 
 And betwixt tlie Cape and Newfoundland 
 Lite the Bay Ids armies pour. 
 
 IL- caught our helpless cruisers lliere 
 As a gray wolf harries the huddling fold; 
 
 A sleet — a darkness — Idltd the air, 
 A shuddering wave before it rolled : 
 
 That Lord's LX^y morn it w.\s a brce/,e, — 
 
 At noon, a blast that shook the seas, — 
 At niglit — a wind of death took hold I 
 
 From Siiini I'aul's light to Kdw.ud Lslc 
 
 A thousand craft it sniolc amain; 
 And some against it strove the while. 
 
 And more to make a port were fain : 
 The mackerel gulls dew screaming past, 
 Au'l the stick that bent to the noonday blast 
 
 Was split by the sundown hurricane. 
 
 There were twenty ami more of Dreton sail, 
 Fust anchored on one mooring ground ; 
 
 Flach lay within his neighbor'.s hail, [round : 
 Wlien the thick of the tempest closed them 
 
 .Ml sank at once in the gaping sea. — 
 
 Somewhere on the slioals their corses l;e, 
 
 The foundi red hulks, an<l these.imen drowned. 
 
 (Jn reef and bar our schooners drove 
 Before the wind, befote the swell; 
 
 By the steep sand clilf their rilis were stove, — 
 Long, long their ercws the tale -hall tell ! 
 
 ( If the (jloucester fleet are wrecks three score; 
 
 ( )f the I'rovince sail two hundred more 
 Were stranded in that tempest fell. 
 
 r K r R 1 1 TO II A I, I F .\ \ . 
 
 .^n .ibrtipc transition from tlie wild and rug- 
 ged scenery of Ca|ie lireton to the fair iidand 
 villa;4;es of Colchester, ;md soon we are among 
 the Sicwiackes. This is a fme part of the 
 country, the most nourishing portion of which 
 
 is not seen from the railway. Large tracts of 
 rifii iiitervale. and excellent upland make the 
 district a good one for the farmer, — one of the 
 finest in Nova Scotia. Throtigli this district 
 Hows the Stewiacke river, which t.ikes its rise 
 anKiiig the hills of I'ictoii and tlows for l'ort\- 
 miles, or so, until it empties into the .Shubena- 
 cadie at Fort Lllis. The Slnibenacaflie is a 
 large arid swift stream, and was at one time 
 looked upon as the future highway of commerce 
 across the Province. More than half a century 
 ago the people of FL-ilifa.>: grew excited over 
 the idea that the trade of the Jiasin of. Minas 
 was being carried to .St. John. Xattire had. 
 placed a chain of lakes at the .source of the 
 river, and it would seem that art wotild have 
 little trouble in constructing a canal. .Meetings 
 were held, stirveys and s]iceches were made, 
 money was suliscribed and the work was C(;m- 
 meneed. It was never finished, and never will 
 be. The enthusiasm subsided, the supplies 
 cea.sed, and the Great Shubenacadie Canal was 
 abandoned. The ruins still exist, but the rail- 
 way has taken the place of a canal for .all time 
 to come. 
 
 ]5'-th the Stewiacke and Shubenacadie have 
 good fishing, and so have the lakes beyond the 
 latter as Wintlsor Junction is approached. 
 Grand Lake has fine grayling fishing in June. 
 July, September and October. Four years ago, 
 i20,cKxi whitefish were put into this lake and 
 are believed to be doing well. All the lakes 
 of Halifax ccninty afford good fishing, but the 
 rivers, with a few exceptions, are short and 
 rapid streams which become very low during 
 the summer season. 
 
 The country from Shubenacadie, east to 
 Canseau abounds with moose ;ind other game, 
 ,as has already been intimated in connection 
 with Guysljoro. 
 
 Windsor Junction, 14 miles from Halifax, 
 has admirable facilities for the pasturage of 
 goats, and the procuring of ballast for break- 
 w .Iters, Here the line branches off to Windsor, 
 anil down the .Vnnapolis \'alley hy the W. .'v 
 A. Railway. T'assing by the Junction, the next 
 station is Picdiord, nine miles from Halif.-ix, 
 and here is seen the upper end of that beautiful 
 sheet of w;iter — licdfonl IS.'isin. Along its 
 shores the train jjasses and as the city becomes 
 nearer the beauty of the scene increases. Al 
 lenj'jth the city is reached and the traveller 
 alights in that finest of the Intercolonial struc- 
 tures, the North Street Depot. 
 
 MALI FAX. 
 
 FAcrylKH'y has heard of llalif.tx, the t;ily by 
 the Sea, .uid r.f its f.iii and famous harbor. 
 
T 
 
 HMI! AX. 
 
 49 
 
 
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 This harbor, they have been told, ir. one of the 
 finest in tlie world — a haven in which a thou- 
 sand ships may rest secure, and yet but a little 
 removed from the broad ocean lii^duvay which 
 unite:; the easterti and the western worlds. They 
 have been told, also, that this harbor is always 
 actessible and always safe; and all of this, 
 though true enough, does the harbor of Hali- 
 fax but scant\ justice. All harbors have 
 more or less ot merit, but few are like this 
 one. Here there is sirnetliing more tjian 
 merely a roomy and safe haven — somethini,'' 
 10 claim more than a passinj,^ glance. To 
 imderstand this we must know soniething of 
 the topography of the city. 
 
 1 lalifa.x is located on a peninsula ■ nd founded 
 on a rock. East and west of it thi ^ea comes 
 in, robbed of its terrors and appearing only 
 as a thing of beauty. The water on the west 
 is the Northwest Arm, a stretch of water 
 about three miles in length and a cjuarter of a 
 mile in width. To the south and east is the 
 harbor, which narrows as it reaches the upper 
 end of the city and ex[iands again into IJedford 
 IJasin, with its ten S(|uare miles of safe anchor- 
 age. The liasin terminates at a distance of 
 nine miles from the city, and is navigable for 
 the whole distance. Tlie city ])roper is on the 
 eastern slope of the isthmus and rises from 
 the water to .a height of 256 feet at the citadel. 
 On the eastern side of the harbor is the town 
 of Dartmouth. In the harbor, and command- 
 ing all parts of it, is the strongly fortified 
 ("■eorge's Island, while at the entrance, three 
 miles below, is McNab's Island, which effectu- 
 allv guards tlie p.assage from tlu- ^c.a. Thi.-. is 
 
 a brief and dry description of tin city. It 
 would be just as easy to make a longer and 
 more gushing one, but when people are going 
 to see a plai:e for themselves thev don"t take 
 the bother \.o w.ade through ,a long ac^-ount 
 of metes, bounds and salient angles. Halifax 
 must be seen to be appreciated. 
 
 Halifax is a strong city in every way. It 
 has great strength in a military point of ^•iew ; 
 it has so many solid men that it is a t )wer of 
 strength tlnancially; it is strongly T'litish in its 
 manners, customs and sympathies; and it has 
 strong attractions for visitors. Let us analyze 
 some of these points of strength. 
 
 First, the military. There was a time when 
 the military element w.is necessarily the lirst 
 to be con.-sidered. One of the first acts of the' 
 hrst settlers was to lire a saiiue in honor vA 
 their arrival, and as soon as (ifniMnor Corn- 
 wallis had a roof to shelter his head, they 
 placed a couple fA cannon to defend it and 
 mounted a guard. They had need of militar\-. 
 Indians saw in tluMr arrival a probable " boom ' 
 in scalps, and every Indian \\\ the neighbor- 
 hood sharpetied his knife for the anticipated 
 '• luuii." These Imliaiis were neithi'r the 
 devotional ones whon> Cowper holds u;) for 
 the imitation of Sunday-school .scholars, nor 
 yet the playful and docile ones who borrowed 
 tobacco of the late \\'illiam I'enn. They were 
 savages, as destitute of pity and sentiinent as 
 they were of decent clothes. It was, there- 
 fore, es.sential that tlie men of Il.ilifax should 
 be of a military turn of mind, and every boy 
 and man. from sixteen to sixty years of age, 
 did dutv in the ranks of i!ie militia. Later 
 
;o 
 
 /\Jh/a\)/.0\iAf. U.U/.W.IV ('/■• i.LWlDA. 
 
 the town !)C(-,inu; an important military and 
 naval station; ships of the line made liuir 
 rcnilezvous in tlie liarbur and snini-, of F.n.uf- 
 land's iM'avfst ve-tfrans wltc. (|iiartered in its 
 har-acks. !'iin<(:s, dui<es, lords, admirals, 
 jTcni-rals, captains and coloni'ls walked the 
 streets Iroin time to time; y,nms boomed, (laijs 
 waved, drums beat anrl buj^les soimded, so 
 that the pride aiul jjanoply of war were ever 
 before tile people. And so lliry are to-day. 
 The imiforni is seen nn every -itreel, .-md forti- 
 lieations niee'. tlie eye at every [irominetit 
 [joint. 
 
 Chief amnnj,' the fortifications is the Citadel, 
 whi'.h crowns the <:ity, commenced by the 
 Uukc of Kent, and altered, varied and trans- 
 posed, imtil it lias become a model of military 
 skill. Its history has been a peaceful one anil 
 is likely to be. If it should be assailed it 
 appears well able for ;i sieyc. The citizens, 
 too, are truly loyal to the Crown ; and the 
 people wh(j expect to hurrah v.hen the riritish 
 I'.iij is lowered in submission to I'rovincial 
 llonie Rulers or foreii^n foes will have a Inni; 
 while to wait. \'isitors are allowed to iiispei t 
 the works, but the man who alw.ays follows 
 ('aptain Cuttle's advice to make a note of 
 what he sees, is recommended to refrain from 
 usinvj pencil and paper within the limits of any 
 of the foris. It i.s bad taste; and, besides, the 
 .uith(jritii;s will not iiermit it. 
 
 The seeker after a i^ood \iew of the- city 
 ami Its surroiindin.ns mav have the \-ery best 
 from the Citadel. It commands land and 
 water for many miles. The .Arm. the H.-isin. 
 the Harbor with its islands, the sea with its 
 ships, the dist.ant lulls and forests, the city 
 with its busy streets- all are present to 
 the eye in a beautiful and varied panorama. 
 Daninouih, across the harbor, is seen to fme 
 .idvantatje. .vhile on the waters around the 
 city are seen the siiips of all the nati(;iis of the 
 earth. No anioum of elaborate word-painting 
 would do justice to the view on a tine sum- 
 mer's day. It must be seen, and once seen it 
 will not be forgotten. 
 
 The fortific'itions on McNab and lieorge's 
 Islands, as well as the various forts arotind the 
 shore, are all worthy of a visit. .Vfter they 
 have been seen, the visitor will have no doubts 
 .IS to the exceeding strength of Halifa.\ aboM- 
 all tlie cities of .\merica. The Dockyard, with 
 splendid e.\.imples (^f England's naval power, 
 IS also an exceedingly interesting place, and 
 always presents a picture of busy life in which 
 the " oak-hearted tars " ;ire a prominent fe.iture. 
 
 The linanci;il strength of Malifax is appar- 
 ent at a ulaiii-e. It is a \erv we.ilthv ( itv, and 
 
 a.< its people have never had a mania for 
 speculation, the jirogress to wealth lias been a 
 sure one. The businos men have always had 
 a splendid reputation for reliability ;uid lionor- 
 .able dealing, 'i'he banks are safe, though the 
 people did business until comparatively recent 
 times without feeling; th.at such in.<titutioiis 
 were necessary. .\ cash business and specie 
 pa\'nicnts suited their wants. .At length sev- 
 eral leailing men started .a bank. They had 
 no cli.u'ter and were •lUrroiiiuled by no legisla- 
 tive' enactments. No one knew how much 
 capital they had, or what amount of ii<>t('s 
 they had in circulation. No one cared. They 
 were " solid mt n," and that was enough ; and 
 so they went on for years — always having the 
 contldence of the public and always being as 
 safe as any bank in .Vmerica. The charrered 
 banks now do the work, hut the .solid men of 
 Halifax are still to be found, in business and 
 (Hit of it. 
 
 Halifa.v is the most Hritish city on the con- 
 tinent, l-ong association with the army and 
 navy has accomplished this. There are some 
 I'rovincial people who after .i six-months 
 sojourn in the United States are very much 
 more American than the simon-pure ^'ankee. 
 This could not happen to the citizens of ITili- 
 fa.x. They are, for once and for .ill, the failnful 
 and liege subjects of Her Majesty, her heirs 
 and successors, and the fashions and tastes of 
 the people must be governed by the land 
 beyond the se.i. I]et\\een their ideas and the 
 ideas of Vankceland there is a great gulf tixeil; 
 the roar of the lion and the scream of the 
 eagle can never be confouiuled. So the people 
 have all that is admirable in English business 
 circles and polite society. That is to s,iv, they 
 preserve their mercantile good names by integ- 
 rity, .md their homes are the scenes of good, 
 old-fashioned I'nglish hospitality. A stranger 
 who has the ciitri'i- into the best soi-iety will 
 be sure to carry away tiie most kindly recol- 
 lections of his visit. Ill no phice will more 
 studious efforts be made to minister to the 
 enjoyment of the guest — it matters not what 
 his nationality may be. 
 
 The stRifig attractions for visitors are so 
 numerous that a city guide-book is necessary 
 to explain tliem in their proper order. The 
 drives can be \aried according to the taste and 
 the time of sojourn. To likirt the city one 
 may dri\e down ilu Point Pleasant road and 
 up the N. W. .Arm. This gives a line view of 
 the harbor ;uid ks obj<-cts of interest. The 
 Arm is a beautiful place, and around it are 
 many elegant private residences, the homes of 
 men of we.ilth and taste. This is one of the 
 

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 most i)li'aHaiir parts <)( llalilax. I'lom ilic 
 Ann line may drive out on the Prospect road, 
 and around Herrini; Ciivc Tin- view of the 
 oi\'an had fmni ilie hills is of an rnrjiantiii)^ 
 nature. iXnothci (h-iv: is around Bedford 
 Jiasin, cominx home liy the way of Dart- 
 lUfiuth; or one may extend the journey to 
 Waverl<-y and I'orto fielio. before siartinj^j for 
 liome, tlie drive beinj; in all about twenty- 
 seven miles. If one lias a fancy for batliin>; 
 in the surf, he should gn to wliere the .sea rolls 
 in with a maj,'nilii-ent sweej), at Cow Bay. 
 This beautiful place, which furnishes another 
 instance of the horribly litcr.il nomenclature 
 of the early smtlcrs, is ten miles from Halifax, 
 (in the l->arlnuiuth siilc. The drive to it is 
 thri)uj,;li a i)rctty jiiece of country. All around 
 Halifax are bays, c<)ves, isl.inds and lakes, any 
 one (if which is worthy of a visit, so that the 
 tourist may see as much or as little as he 
 pleases. l-l\cursions to McNab's Island, at the 
 mouih of the harbor, .are .also in order durinj^ 
 the fine (lays of summer. 
 
 In the city itself, there is a j^reat deal to be 
 seen. It is expected that str.ani^ers will visit 
 the Fish Market, and it will Ix^ well to .attend 
 to this before it is forgotten. The people are 
 proud of it — not the buildiny;. but its contents 
 -and the visit is a very interesiinjr one, to 
 those who like to see fish. Then, of course, 
 on*' must i(o to the Province Building;, which 
 Judge H.iliburton claimed t" be ''the best 
 built and handsotnest eililice in Nurlh Amer- 
 ica." Then comes the New Province Btiildin.;, 
 with its line museum cpen to the ]r,ii)lie. 
 .After these come the ch\irches. asylums, a'nl 
 all kinds of jiublic institutions — some of w hich 
 bear glowing tribute to the charity and phil m- 
 throjjv of the peoph. Halifax has a 1 irge 
 number of charities in proportion to its size, 
 and the r(.'suhs cannot fail to lie good. The 
 I'ublie Harden belonging to the city w 11 be 
 found a most pleasant retreat, with its trees 
 and flowers, foimtains. lak' ■■, .uid eo(ji and 
 sh.idy walks. Here one may enjoy the fra- 
 grance of nature ni all itsghjry. while the eye 
 is feasted with nature's beauties. 
 
 One should have a sail on Bedford Ba^in. 
 that fair expanse of water, broad, deep, blue 
 and beautiful. Here it is that yachts and 
 boats (.>f all kinds .are to be found taking ;id- 
 vantage of so fair a cruising ground, spreading 
 their sails before the breezes .vhich cmie in 
 from the Atlantic. It was on the slmre of this 
 Basin that the Duke of Kent had his resi- 
 dence, and the remains of the music pavilion 
 still staiul on a height which oxeihioks the 
 water. The " Prio' e's Lodge," as it is c;ill''d. 
 
 m.iy be visited during the land drive to Bed- 
 ford, but the place is s.idly shorn of its former 
 glory, .and the r.iiKvay. th.ai destroyer of all 
 sentnnent, runs directl)- through the groimds. 
 It was a famous place in its day. however, and 
 the memory of the (Queen's father will long 
 continue to be held in lumor by the Halifax 
 people. 
 
 H.alif.ix has comnumieation with ;\\\ \inns 
 of the world, by steamer and sailing vessel 
 Hither CDine the ocean ste,unslii])s with m.iils 
 ;int! jiassengers, and numbers ni others wiiich 
 make this a port of call on llu'ir w.iy to anil 
 from (Jiher pl.aecs, A l.irge tr.ide is carried on 
 with Kurope, the I'nit'd States, and the West 
 Intlies, and from here, also, one may \isii the 
 fair Bernuidas, or the rugged Newfoundl.and, 
 .Steamers .arrive .and de[)art at all hours, and 
 the harbor is never dul'. One can go to 
 liurope or any of the leading places of Amer- 
 ica W'ithout delay — Livcr[)ool, Olasgow, the 
 West Indies, Neu-N'ork, iioston, Portland, 
 Newfoiuidl.ind and Oiiebec — these are some 
 of the points with which direct comnumieation 
 is had by steamer. The man who wants a 
 sea voyage can take his choii ■■ 
 
 o i; I" s 1 1 ) I ; ( J 1 
 
 A 1.1 FAX 
 
 The traveller ma\ go east or west .along the 
 shore, according as his taste may be for sport 
 or for a mere pleasure trip. To the eastward 
 is a somewhat wild country, on the shores 
 (if which fishing is extensively carried on, 
 .md whicli h.is numerous arms of the sea 
 which .ailmir.alily suit the occupation of its 
 people, liack from the shore, the coiuitry 
 abounds in hc.ivy forests, and is aliundanrly 
 watered with l.ikes. This is the great country 
 for moose .and caribou. They are foimd in 
 all the eastern part of the county, and witlup 
 easy distance of the settlement. Here is the 
 place for sportsmen — a hunter's paradise, it 
 was down in this county, at Tangier, that the 
 first discovery of gold w.is made in No\a 
 Scoti.a. The hu'ler was ^ moose hunter, a 
 cnpt.'iin in the army. Cold mining is still fol- 
 loW(^d. and some of rhe leads ha\e gi\-en 
 splendid results. 
 
 To the West of Halifax the great attraction 
 is to take the Limenburg st.ag(' line .and go to 
 M.ahonc Bay. The drive is one of the nost 
 beautiful to be found. I-'or much of the way 
 the road skirts ;i romantic sea shore, with long 
 smooth beaches of white sand, on which roll 
 the clear waters of the ocean. The ocean, 
 grand in itr. inunensity, lies before the trav- 
 eller. Along the shore are green forests, 
 wherein .are all the llora of the couiurv, while 
 
ouTsrDrc of hai if.w. 
 
 53 
 
 at limes lofty cliffs rear their hcaiU in majesty 
 crowned with vcrclnrc and glorious to l)cluild. 
 One of these is As|)otai;ocn, willi its perpen- 
 dicular height of five hi'ndrcci fcpt, the first 
 land sighted by the mariner ai he ai?|)roai.'hc:» 
 the coast. All these beauties prei)are the 
 stranger for Chester, a most alluring; place for 
 all who seek enjoyment. It is only 45 miles 
 from Halifax, the roail to it is excellent, and 
 the staj^es are models of speed and comfort. 
 The villavje h<is two hotels -the [.ovette House 
 and Whitforil's — and private board is also to 
 be had with all thcM'omf'Mts one desires. The 
 scenery of Chester is not to be described. It 
 is majfnihcent. Whether one ascends Web- 
 ber's Flill and drinks in the glorifuis views for 
 mile upon mile; or roams on the inirc, silvery 
 beach; or sails among the hundreris of fairy 
 islets in the bay— all is of superb beauty. 
 No fairer spot can be chosen for boatinjf, 
 bathini; and heaWhfid [jjeasure of ail kinds 
 than Mahone Bay and its beautiful surruuiul- 
 in.ifs. 
 
 The tishin,iif of this part of Nova Scotia is to 
 a great extent for sea troui. which are found 
 in the estuaries "f all the rivers. Salmon is 
 found where the nvcr is of good volume and 
 the passage is not barred, (lold River, at the 
 head of Mahone Bay, has good salmon fishing 
 In May and June. In the other rivers to the 
 westward the best time is in .March and April. 
 The sea trout are found in the estuaries at all 
 limes during the siunmer. To the east of 
 Halifax, fme sea trout are caught in Little 
 Salmon Kivcr, seven miles from l)artniouth, 
 in tin: month of .September, while further ilmvn 
 both salmon and sea trout arc caught 'rom 
 June to September in such streams as the 
 Musquoduboit, Tangier, Sheet Harbor, .Middle 
 and Big Salmon River. Besides this, it will 
 be remembered that tiout are found in all of 
 the many lakes. 
 
 Returning to Halifax, to bid it adieu, the 
 visitor will have leisure to examine the Inter- 
 colonial l)e|)ot before the departure of tlu 
 train. This building is a tine s[)eciinen of 
 architecture, handsome in appearance, roomy, 
 comfortable and in every way adapted to the 
 wants of the travelling public. It is so well 
 fitted up, and ,so convenient, that the ordinary 
 nuisance of having to wait for a train is so 
 thoroughly mitigated that it is almo.st converted 
 into a pleasure. 
 
 The trains of the Windsor <S: Ann.ipolis 
 Railway run from this dejjot, anil c;m be taken 
 twice a day by those who wish to visit the fair 
 Annapolis Valley. The main line is left at 
 Windsor Junction, and the traveller prepares 
 
 himself to see the beauties of tlie "(".arden of 
 Nova Scoti.'i." 
 
 Do not be in a hurry I The ga;di-n is not in 
 sight yet — these rocks and scraggy woods are 
 not part of it -and it will be just as well not 
 to loc;kout of the window for a while, uiuil the 
 land a.'.sumes a more cheerful aspect. This 
 will not be long. The appearance of the 
 country improves after a few miles of travel 
 and soon becomes re.-illy attriictisc. Windsor 
 is reached -classic Windsor -.and the broad 
 .Avon River is crossed by ;i splendid iron 
 bridge. 
 
 Nc> one can deny that Windsor is a pretty 
 place, with its hills, meadows, .uid the 
 Basin of Minas within view. The Avon is a 
 nobli' ri'.er nt high water — at low water its 
 banks (jI mud are stuiiendous. It is the tide, 
 from the Basin which gives the river its be.auty. 
 as it does nearly a score of other rivers, great 
 and small. Despite of the mud, Wind.' or has 
 a peculiar charm about its scenery and well 
 merits the name of one of Nova Scotia's beauti- 
 ful towns. Leaving Windsor the r-iad ere 
 long enters the country which Longfellow has 
 made famous. Since " Evangeline " was com- 
 posed, no one h;is ever written of this part of 
 X<i\a Scotia without (juoting more or less v)f 
 the poem. It is considered the correct thing 
 to do so, !)ut for onci:' there shall be an excej)- 
 lion to the rule. The teinptatit-n is great, but 
 ii is nobly resisted. The recent death of the 
 poet has made his works more famili.ir than 
 ever, and [leoplc know F.vangeline without 
 having it done uj) to them in fragments. Let 
 the task be left to newspaper correspondents, 
 and to the noble army of those who have writ- 
 ten " Lines on the deaih of Longfellow." 
 
 ( iraiul Pre, as all know, me.ins gie.at meadow, 
 and we have only to look around to see how 
 fitting is the name. The Acadians had about 
 2,100 acres of it when they had their home 
 here, ,ind there is more than that to-day. In 
 the distance is seen Jilomifloii, risiiij; abrujitly 
 from the water, the end of the North Mountain 
 range. The Basin of Minas, which runs inland 
 for sixty miles, shines like a sheet of luirnished 
 silver in the summer sunshine. It is a beauti- 
 ful place which the sweet singer has made 
 famous ; and yet he lived and died within two 
 days' journey of it and never saw it. Do you 
 know why ? It was that he cherished a sweet 
 ideal v.hich he feared the reality would mar. 
 lie need not have feared, for though he would 
 have looked in vain for the forest prinvval, 
 and might ha\e found some of ins statements 
 open to grave doubt, he could not have failed 
 to admire the placid beauty of the scene. It 
 
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 is lint ton much tn say that the poem nf 
 " Kvanj^'cliiK' " has dont; nuiro to rn.Jvc Nova 
 Si Dtia fatnoiiH than all the lK)(>ki> wliirh have 
 v\t-r bii-n writ It'll. The author could well have 
 i)oasl«i, as Horai'<' ilid, " l-'..\,\i;i nionu'iienlinn 
 lit r fi('tYiiniiif." 
 
 \'e\\ traces of the I rciuh viila^'c an- to be 
 fouiul. It has vanished from tiu' fariii, i)Ul the 
 road taken by tin- i:\ilfs*, as they sadly made their 
 way to the Kind's shi|)s. may still be traced by 
 \.\\v seiuimeutal tourist. Let sueli a one not 
 sirarcli tuo deeply into histnry, lest his ideas 
 of the Aeadians receive a chaiiKCi but let huu 
 he < unteiU with the poet's version, and feel thai. 
 
 " To their nnnals linketl while time shall last, 
 'Two loMT> from the siiaiUiwy realms arc >oen, 
 A fair, Immortal jiicturc of the past, 
 
 The forms of (Lilaii.-! .iii'l I'vanKcline." 
 
 Wnlfville is another beautiful jilaee, and 
 lieMMid it is Keiiivillo, where the deneral 
 oilices of the W. iV A. Railway are situaletl, 
 and a i)oint from which Mahuiie Hay may be 
 reached by sta'^e across the country. Kentsille 
 has m.my attractions for the lover of the 
 beautiful as found in peaceful landscape, and is 
 well worthy of a visit. A little later the famed 
 Ann.ipolis \'alley is seen and traversed until 
 Annapolis Royal is reached, ;it a distance of 
 130 miles from Halifax. 
 
 .\ N \ A I'lM. I S Ki> V A I... 
 
 the .•incicnt cai)it.il of Acadia, is the uldi'St 
 lairopean settlement in America, north of the 
 I'lulf of Mexico. Hither c.ime Ch.iniplain in 
 1004, huir ye.ir- before he fouiiJeil ( Hiebec ; 
 and soon alter, the French colnny w.is estab- 
 lished on this well chosen spot. It was then 
 J'ort Royal, and it remained for tiie I'Inj.;lisli. 
 a century later, to chanjre the name to Anna- 
 polis, in honor of their (|ueen. Deeply interest- 
 inj4' as its history is, it can not be outlined here. 
 It is cnoujfh to say that it has shared the fate 
 of other Acadian strongholds aiul its fort has 
 become a ruin. To asiend the elevated ground 
 ;ind look down upon the bro.'id river and on the 
 lulls ;intl vales around, one sees much that is 
 beautiful to-day ; and can well realize how 
 Poutrincourt was charmed with the vision that 
 .greeted his eyes when he and hi> comrades .set 
 foot upon this shore The earl,- settlement 
 was a few miles further down the river than 
 the present town, but all wc tread is historic 
 ground. This fair ri\er anil gc^odly land have 
 been the scenes of many a fearful fray, and 
 swift death has claimed its \ictims on every 
 hand. Now all is [k aceful. beautiful. The 
 " war drum throbs no longer, and the battle 
 
 n.'ij;s are ftirleil ; " the fort is the play-i-round 
 of the children, and the (locks of the. farmers 
 Kfaze upon the earth-works raised by man to 
 resist his fellow-men. 
 
 The Aiuiapolis Valley is famed fur its fer- 
 tility. It lies between the North and South 
 Mount.iin ninRC!. ; and thm* sheltered, with a 
 soil umisu.illy 1 ich, it has well earned the name 
 of the (iarden of Nova Scotia, Kor mile .after 
 mile the railway runs past orchards white with 
 ajiple blossoms or laden with tempting fruit. 
 The air is fr.ij^ranf, and the eye never wearies 
 of the fair f.irms and tlu'ir f'Ttile I'lelds. Oni^ 
 of the villai^es is called J'.aradise, and the name 
 does not seem misplai:ed. I'"arnurs may here 
 live amid peai-e and pU'nly, and toil little for ;i 
 rich reward. It is a line i ouniry - a beauteous 
 valley. 
 
 The whole coast, from Brier Inland to lUomi- 
 doii, a distance of 130 miles, is protected by 
 the rocky barriers. The raii'.^e rises at times 
 to the heiifht of Chx» feet, and effectually guards 
 this part of .Nova Scoti.i from the cold north 
 winds, and the chilling fogs wliicli sometimes 
 prevail in the JJay of I'undy 
 
 One. can go from Annapolis direct to lioston, 
 by steamer; or he can t,ike llie ste.imer across 
 to St. John, a short and pleasant trip. On the 
 way he can stop at J>igby, a tine watering- 
 place, with the best of sea-bathing, plenty of 
 fruit, and much natui.il beauty. 
 
 If the tourist has not alre.adv \isited 
 
 I'R I NCK ]■: I)\V AR 1) ISLAND. 
 
 he sliould do so l)efore leaving the .M.irilime 
 I'rovinces. The (Iarden of the (nilf is easily 
 reached, either from Point du Chcne or Pictou ; 
 and once arrived, the niiKvay takes one to all 
 parts of the island. 
 
 The island haimore good land, in proportion 
 to its size, than any part of the Maritime 
 Provinces, and grows ama.'.ingly Large jiotatoes 
 and surprisingly heavy oats.' Its people raise 
 enough food tosupi)ly all their wants and have 
 as much more to sell to outsiders. It is 
 altogether a llourishing country, and withal, 
 fair to look upon, pleasant to dwell in, .md as 
 cheap a place as one (-.m tind in a month's 
 ji)urney. There was a time when it was even 
 more cheap for strangers than it i.s now ; and 
 it is a positive f.act that men ha\e gone there, 
 had a good time, and/'while paying for every- 
 thing, found the expense amounting to nothing. 
 The difference in the currency did it. A man 
 could buy up .sovereigns, "short ijuafters," 
 etc., at their ordinary value in the other Pro\- 
 inces, take them t" the island, pass them at 
 their much higher local value, and make money 
 
5^ 
 
 IXTUKCOLUMAL KA/JAirAy DF ^.A.XADA. 
 
 liy tlif t)pfrnlion. n^sidt's, rvcry rnin that 
 vv.is iiniiirn lit anywiiric else (uimil a r(•fll^,'c 
 hrrr, and at times almost any bit of nutal 
 whiiji liMikriJ iik'J a mppcr or a penny w.is 
 •nirrcnt coin. The result was lliat the islam! 
 had the most extraordinary and hctcrujjencmiN 
 ( iirrcricy to be fouiid in Ami'rira. This stalt 
 of affairs has sonu-.whal iui()rovi'd of late years, 
 but the islaiui is still a pleasant place for u 
 yiod, oil! fashioned, " tiixh old time." 
 
 Von (.111 l.ind cither at Charlotietown or 
 Snnimei'-idc. if at tin fornn r pl.iee, you will 
 admire HiilsboinuKh Hay anil the bcautifil 
 harbor. The town is ])leasaiitlj situated and 
 has minierous ple.i^ant plaees in its vicir. ty. 
 Tea Hill, (iuvernors ;md St. I'eler's Islands, 
 l.owther and S(|ii.i\v f'oints, Chf-rry Valley, 
 I'ennarth, and Kast, Wc st and North I\i\ers, 
 are all wurtliy of a visit. The rivers in the 
 vicinity have ^'ood trout, and fine se.i-troiit 
 lishiiiif is also to be had off the mouth of the 
 harbor. All kinds of wild fowl are found alon'^' 
 the shores, and woodi oek .md |)lover are also 
 to be shot at the proper .season. 
 
 Isu.'-iiro Heach is ;i favorite summer resort, 
 and Newson's lintel and the Rnsti'-o House, 
 furni.sh vfooil areoniiiuidatidii. line bathinjr, 
 sliooiins; and lishin^f may be h.id here, as 
 intleed, may be said of nearly all the pla<TSon 
 the Island shores. 
 
 Traeadii'. 14 miles from CJi.ulottetown, is 
 an e.xeulleiiL plaee, both for sportsmen and 
 pleasure .seekers. All kinds of sea fowl, and 
 e.\;cellent trout lisiiin.kj m.iy be h.'id hire, ami 
 the < )i ean Mouse has aeenmmodation for all 
 who come. I-ive miles from this is Sav.n;<: 
 Harbor, and six miles furtlii:r is .St. I'eter's -- 
 boili v;oo(l places for shootinv; and hshinj^. 
 
 .Summerside has much to commend it to 
 visitors, with its fine h.'ubor and pleasant 
 islar.ds. The chief hotel is the Mawley House, 
 A journey of a mile or two tidin it will brmvf 
 one to Malpeque Uay, on the other side of the 
 Island. It is one of the peculiarities of the 
 country th.Ht, though it is iie.irly thiif 
 miles from shore to shore in one part, 
 three places where there is only a mil o 
 
 between the waters. Th- island is th. ide 
 up of peninsulas and some si.x or seven n, ■ s 
 of di,i(s^inv; would make four island, of the one. 
 
 The railway runs from one end of the Island 
 to the other, and winds around the hills in a 
 way which will be novel to those •\\\n have 
 been .leeustomed to through lines. There is 
 one .advantage in this ; the traveller sees more 
 of the country than if the line were -uraighr. 
 The hills .-in- not high, for the surface is of the 
 uiiiial.iuii'j kmd ; but the absence of bold scen- 
 
 i ery is;iniply itop'-d for by tlu' fjnr fields \liuh 
 I speak so much fci th'' !■ land .is u honii' fur 
 I the fanner. 
 
 'I'hose who seek ,1 pleasant l.ind, wiili pure 
 I air and Ijeautiful ehniate, should \isit the 
 : IsLmd. All the plea.stires of the Reaside may 
 
 be there enjoyed, with fr< cdoin from fo;^ and 
 1 'Hies and numerous other evils whi<h i.re some- 
 \ times found upon the mainland. (tn<; will be 
 
 veil treated, ihorouKlily enioy himself, and 
 
 never regret the visit. 
 
 .MwNC i'<)N To ST. JOHN, 
 
 A journey of four hours or less is reijuircd 
 to take one from Moneton to the eommercial 
 e.ipital of New Hrimswiek. The greater por- 
 tion uf the disi.ince, is through a well siatled 
 country, attractive in appear.mce, but devoid 
 of anything striking in the way of .scenery. 
 
 The first station of note i," S;ilisl)ury, where 
 connection is m.idc with the .Mbcrt railway, 
 which runs to the village of Albeit, a (lisi.ince 
 of 45 miles. The first part of this distance is 
 through .'I monotonou.s wilderness, but when 
 Hillslmro is re.iclied, with the I'eiitcodiac 
 Kiver Mowing by the broad marshes, the beau- 
 ties of the' (ipiintry are better appreei.'ited. 
 The celebrated .Mix rt Mines were mar this 
 plai-e, but they are now abandoned, and no 
 other large depo.'^it of the peculiar "Albertile 
 Coal " has yet been found. The quarrying and 
 m;inuf.'ici.iring of plaster is, howe\-er, still ,m 
 important industry. As the road luarN Hupe- 
 well, the countrv is a fine one, with its moun- 
 tains in the distrin'c ;ind vast m.iishes re.iching 
 to the shores of Shepody ll.iy. There <ire 
 few plaees wlurre a short time can be better 
 enjoyed in a ((uiel way than in the vicinity of 
 Albert. It is a rich farming country, and fair 
 to look upon. I.;irge crops are r.iiseil and 
 some of the linest beef cattle to be found 
 cimie from Hopewell and Harvey. 
 
 < ' m tlie main line, the ne.xt station 
 
 ■achei itn-diae, a stirring village, from 
 
 lich the 1 lum Branch Kailway runs to Elgin 
 i_ornei, in ' 'Inest f.-irming district in Albert 
 County. 1 lu fetitdidiac until .Sussex is 
 re K-hed the various villages make a tine ap- 
 ] 'aranec and give one an excellent impression 
 of New Brunswick .is a farming country. 
 
 s r s s \ 
 
 is one of the plai es wliich is rapitlly increasing 
 in si^e and importance, and has the promi.se of 
 as fair a future as any vil'.ige in the Lower 
 Provinces. It is situati ' ,1 ihe beautiful X'.i!- 
 lev of ihc Kennebecasis, .mil lias sonic of ilii; 
 
« which 
 
 nil'' f"r 
 
 ill piirf 
 isit l)ie 
 iiio may 
 
 (il^ Ullll 
 ■»• ^(IIIIC- 
 
 will 1)«" 
 (If. .m.l 
 
 N. 
 
 ioi)iiir('<l 
 iiin(ri;i;il 
 iter por- 
 ■I! s.iUlcd 
 It devtiiil 
 I'licry. 
 IV. wlicri' 
 : raiUvay, 
 I tlistame 
 lisinnce is 
 bill when 
 'eliicudiai: 
 tlic braii- 
 >pri'i'iate(l . 
 mar this 
 d, and ii<> 
 "AlbtTtiti- 
 vr\\n\i and 
 ■r, still .111 
 ar> lltipf- 
 ils niuun- 
 s ix'afliin;< 
 \'\v\v aro 
 be belt IT 
 vicinity of 
 •, and fair 
 aisi-d and 
 1)0 ((Hind 
 
 ■\! station 
 lai^'f, from 
 
 lis to F.li^in 
 in Albert 
 Susstx is 
 
 la fine ap- 
 
 linipres-^ion 
 
 linirv. 
 
 Miereasing 
 
 promise of 
 
 iihe Lower 
 
 lutifiil Val- 
 
 linr. of the 
 
 SCSShX .IX/> S.I /XT yoHX. 
 
 most fftmnis of thf New Uriii\»\viok furinn. 
 Nntiiru hiiH made all thiM part (if the eotiniry 
 
 siirpassiiiijly fair to look upon ; and it is just as 
 i;ood as it looks. The e.irth yields abiiiul.iiiily 
 of ail kinds of crops, ntid the d.iiry prudmts 
 liave a most eiiviablr fame, He*ii|es tlii.s, the 
 p>'oi)lc have (uish ami '-ntet prise and are m.ik- 
 inyj rapid strides ni all l»ran<'hes of industry. 
 
 Some fair trout lishimj is to be fouml in this 
 part of the eoimiry. To the east and south 
 are Walton, Ciivtssy, Theobald. Hear, White 
 I'ine, Kcho, t'hisholni and othi.r lakes, all 
 within eixliteen miles of the vill.'i^e. Ki>;ht 
 potind trout li.ive brei\ cansjlit in fhisholni 
 I.ake, ihouvjh fish of that si/e are the execp- 
 lion. In Theobald I.akc one man has taken 
 ninety trout, averi.nini,' a jionnd lach. in lwi> 
 days. 
 
 Till- visitor who is interested ,n iiiiiuni; should 
 visit the mall^;anese mim.'s, ti n miles from the 
 village; and if he would like to sec how the 
 best of table salt is obtained, his eniiosity 
 may be saiislied by p'iiiK to the Salt .Springs, 
 four miles aw.ay. As for views, the best to be 
 h.id is from I'.l.ineh's Hill, wlii'-h overlooks the 
 vill;i]L;e and a larj^c portion of the surrouiidinj; 
 country. 
 
 ( ieolojjists tell us that these hills and bold 
 heij^lits seen in the vieinity of .Sussex are the 
 effects of a terrilie curreni which once flowed 
 throujih tht! \-.illcy, when .all the ( ountry vvas 
 snbnu;rj,'ed by a mi.tchty ilood. It is thouijht 
 that this was om c p.art of the valley of the St. 
 John River, but when tli.at "onee " is sottiethiny 
 as unc-ertain as the authorship of Ossian's 
 pcu'ius. It was .'i lorn; while ajjo, ;it any rate. 
 
 From Sussex to St. John, a dist.'uue of 44 
 miles, the eountry alomj the line is well suttlet!, 
 and abounds in beautiful viliaj^es. Ham[)to!i, 
 I he shire-town of Kin^s County, is in j^rcat 
 repute as a summer resort for the people of 
 St. John, a number of whom have line [iriv.ae 
 residences here. From this point the St. Mar- 
 tins kt Upham R.aTlway runs across the eountry 
 to the tiourishiiiij village of St. .M.irtins. on 
 the Bay shore. Hanii>ton is a very pleasant 
 place, and like Sussex, is makiniif rapid ad- 
 vances year by year. Rothesay, nine miles 
 frtim the city, has some handsome vill.as, the 
 residences of St. John business men and 
 others, who lind all the pleasures of tiir.il lifr 
 within less than a hatf-.m-hoiu''s dist.ance of 
 their oflices and <.■ 'intiiiij-rooms. The orna- 
 mental trees and carefully arran.e;ed grounds 
 have a very pleasing effect. The Kenncbeeasis 
 River tlows close by tiie ttai k for a distant e of 
 several miles, the hills rising on the distant 
 shore in picturesque beauty. As Rixcrside is 
 
 reaehril, oiir of the finest rn«c-couriic.s on \\v 
 eontincnt is »ren. Here I.h the seene of »omo 
 famous a'lu.iiii contcsis tiy famous oarsntcii 
 llaiil.in, i'io->s, and otlx-rs of lesser note. 
 It waH here on a be.tutilul auttimn morning, 
 ye.irs ago, th.it the renowned I'aris and Tyne 
 crews struggled for victory, It w.is nearly 
 opposite yonder whaif th,it a man of thr. 
 linglish four was ,seen by l!ie ex< ite:l thoii- 
 .uuls to fall from his' scat, ami as the I'aris 
 crew s!iot ahf.'id wli;it a cheer echoed front 
 that vasi. crowd of human l>eiiigs! ^'et, how 
 quiet wan nil a few minutes later when from 
 the shore beside the wh.irf the. C'h.impion of 
 Kngl.ind. Jamrs Kenforili, w,is carried up the 
 hill to die! It \\as a strange, s;id seene — the 
 mo.st memorable ii\ the annals of this iiiemor- 
 a!>le spot. 
 
 S .\ I N l' j ( > 1 1 \ . 
 
 Tin: m.ui who visits St. John withm the 
 next twelve months will doubtless he.ir a siif- 
 fnieiiey of centennial historv to s.atisfy his 
 mo!-,'. ardent desires. \ hundicd years ago, 
 on the iiSthof M.iy, 17S3, the .\mcrican I.oy- 
 alis s landed t^n the shores of the h.irbor .md 
 Laid till' fotind.itions of the present city. Their 
 descendants, animated by the centeiuii.als held 
 in the United States, priipose to celebrate the 
 eveit in ample form. The occasion will be 
 ont of much interest to iill who are present, 
 for the peijple of St. John have never failed to 
 make their celebrations worthy ol the name. 
 They are .already warming up on the subje<:t, 
 and the day will siu'pass all otiu r days in the 
 hundred years of the city's history. 
 
 St. John has, how.'vcr, a history which ex- 
 tends back tor mud. imore than one century- - 
 to the days when the land w.as Acadia and 
 the banner of France waved from the forts 
 of the Ij.arbor and river. 'I'he story of I. a 
 Tour anil his lier(.)ii; wife is one of the most 
 interesting in the annals of the colonies. Such 
 <i tale — a romance — deserves a better fate 
 than to be presented in a mutilated form; the 
 space at command in these pages would f.ul to 
 do the narrative justice. 
 
 .Ap.irt from its Acadian aim.ils, the history 
 of St. John h.as little to interest the stranger. 
 The city has no extensive ff)rtilications, no 
 nieiiioiMble battle-tields, noching ancient or 
 quaint io fascinate the antiquarian. It is ;i 
 modern city. Even the best p.irt of its old 
 buildings have been swept away by lire, and 
 new and substantial edifices line the great 
 m.ajority of the streets. St. John is to be seen 
 for what it is — not for what it h.as bren. 
 
 Thegreat fiteof the 20th of June, i.S'/7. swe[)t 
 
I i.^,_. 
 
 «W:iV}Sj 
 
 I'I'HI.IC Kli\I> Srsi'|--M'iN I;k1Ik;i;, I-.\I-I.;i OK IHK ST. J'.HN RIVIK, Kf. lOllS, N, n. 
 
s,i/xr joj/x. 
 
 59 
 
 \- 
 
 over 200 acres nf the business part of ihe city, 
 destroyed more than i ,ftoo houses, which occu- 
 pied nine miles of street, and caus(<l a 1<jss 
 which has been estimated at fij;ures all the 
 way between twenty and lliirly million dollars. 
 The destruction was swift and comiiictc. .uid 
 the ct'fecis of it will be ftit for many years to 
 come. The new city has made rapid projjress ; 
 and bricls and stone have taken tlu; i)l.'ice ol 
 the wootl so t(cnerally in use in former limes. 
 To one who knew it in other years, St. John 
 seems another place. F.verythinif has rhanscd, 
 .ill the old ass(jciations are gone. The sur- 
 roundini^s of the people are dilfercnt. ': is 
 much as if some old famili.ir picture j^allery 
 were so renovated that all tlic old lights and 
 shades were gone, and the dear old paintings 
 brightened, varnished and set in new and 
 gaudy frames. 
 
 Many of the new buildings' are splendid 
 specimens of architecture. The Custom House 
 is one of whicii any city might be proud. The 
 Post Ollice, the churches, and numerous other 
 Ijuildings, public and private, cannot fail to 
 evoke admiration. The city is naturally well 
 adapted to show its buildings to the best 
 advantage, with its streets wido, straight -mmI 
 crossing each other at right angles. Tiie new 
 l)art of the city has a gentle slope towards the 
 harbor, and seen from the latter niakt:s a fine 
 appearance. A closer iiisiH-ilion dovs not 
 dissipate the first fa\orable impression, and 
 St. Joiin is voted .1 rather nice sort of a place. 
 
 Outside of the city are several fine drives. 
 One of these is out the Marsh Uoad, visiting 
 the beautiful Kur.il Cemetery. This City of 
 Tombs is situated most admira' \ for its pur- 
 pose and none can fail to be .-Njaick with the 
 quiet beauty whi<-his everywhere -een through- 
 out its sliady walks. .Another, and ver\- at- 
 tractive, drive is over t!x- .Suspension }5ridge. 
 The river St. John takes its rise in the State of 
 Maine ani! Ilows lor 450 mili-s until it is emptied 
 in the h.irbor on the Bay of Fundy. It, with 
 Its tributaries, drains two million acres in 
 ('uebec, si.K millions in Maine and nine millions 
 in New Brunswick. Vet this great body of 
 water is all emptied into tin- sea through a 
 rocky chasm a little over live hundred feet wide 
 Here a fall is formed. It is a i)eculiar fall. 
 At high tide the s<'a has a descent of fifteen 
 feet into the ri\er. and at low tide the river has 
 a like fail into the sea. It is only at half-tide, 
 or slack water, that this j)art of the river mav 
 Ix- na\igated in safety. At other times a wild 
 tumult of the waters meets the eye. .Across 
 this chasiii is stretched the Suspension Hridge. 
 seventy feet above the highest tides, and with 
 
 a span of 640 feet. This structure was pro- 
 jected and built by the energy of one man. the 
 late William K. Reynolds. Few besides the 
 projector had any faith in the undertaking, 
 and lie therefore assumed the whole financial 
 .uid other responsibility, not a dollar being 
 l«iid by the sharehoklers until the bridge was 
 opened to the public. In I1S75 the bri<lge was 
 purchased from llic shareholders by the I'ru- 
 vinci.al Government and is now a free highway. 
 Hevoiul this is the Lunatic .Asylum; a li'*t!e 
 further, after passing l"air\'ille, is that famous 
 drive, the M.tnawagonish (Maogenesi Road, a 
 splendid highway, in full view of the IJay of 
 I'Uiidy, with the line of the .\ova Scotia coast 
 visible forty miles away. This is one of the 
 most pleasant drives to be h;id aroniul 
 .St. John. Returning, Carleton, which lies 
 aiross the harbor, may be visited, .and one 
 may see the ruins of l-'ort La J'oui". Do not 
 make tk.e sanu blunder as the gifted ISayard 
 Taylor, and mistake the Martello 'J'ow( r for 
 this flirt. La Tour's stronghold is not so con- 
 spicuous, and there is very little to be seen of 
 it. Houses are built on this historic, ground, 
 and they are not by any means imposing in 
 their character; slabs and sawdust are numer- 
 ous, and the air is at times pervaded with a 
 decitk'dly plain odor of fish. Such is Fort L.i 
 Tour to-day; such is the place where lived and 
 died "the tirst and grc;ue:-t nf .Acafii.'m hero- 
 ines-— a woman whose n.ame is as [jroudiv 
 enshrineil in the history of this land as that of 
 any sceptred iineen in Furojiean story.'*' 
 
 .A superior natural bathing j^lace may be 
 found at the B.iy Shore, a short distance from 
 Carleton. The situation is e.uellent, aiul were 
 the pl.ace properly prepared for visitors, it 
 would doubtless be much more extensively 
 patroni/ec! than at the pn-scnt time. 
 
 Leaxing the cit_\' and driving thrimgh i'ori- 
 land, a town which may some dav be part of 
 the city pro])cr, ovo. may ;i.scend Fort Howe, 
 have a grand view of the liarbor and city, and 
 then proceed 10 the bank- of the broad and 
 beautiful Kennebecasis. 1 )r itiie may go by the 
 way of the M.ush Bridge to Lake Lomond, a fa- 
 mous place for pleasure, parties, where fishing, 
 s.iiling. etc., mav be enjoyed to perfection. 
 Should a sh(jrler .uid still pleasant drive be de- 
 sired, one may ascend Mount i'k-asant, h.ixe 
 another magnilicent view of the city and vicin- 
 ity, and proceed to Lily Lake. In faU, it were 
 tedious to rnumenite all the pleas.ant places 
 which in.iy be visiti-d by those having a te;iin .it 
 their dispos.al lor a few hours n{ a summer i.i:iy. 
 
 ♦ H.innay. 
 
6o 
 
 IXTERCOLONIAL RAll WAY OF CANADA. 
 
 The.' liarbor of Si. Jcliii is one (jf its j^n^al 
 leatures. Deep and rapacious, its swift cur- 
 rents and l)iv(h titles rs-ndcr if free from ice 
 .lurini( the most severe seasons. Ships of any 
 •?ize can lie safely at its wharves, fir anchor in 
 ;he stream, well sheltered from the storms 
 which rage witluiiit. At the entrance is I'art- 
 ridjje Island, a light, signal, and fjuarantine 
 station ; .ind this once [iroperly ffirtitied, and 
 guns placcfl on the opposite shfjre of the main- 
 land, no hostile fleet could hope to gain the 
 liarbor without a desperate struggle. Tlie | 
 harhfir jiroper bounds the city on tlie west and ' 
 south; to the east is Courtcnay Bay. which j 
 becomes a plain of mud when the tide is out. I 
 Some tine vessels have been built on this ]Jay, | 
 and it has e.xcellent weir ti-^heries. The fish- 
 eries of this .and f)lhcr j^.-iris of the harbor arc ' 
 prcsecnited with e.\c(.ll(;nt su( cess and give 
 employment to a large number of men. It is 
 from these fishermen that such oarsmen as the 
 I '.iris crew, Ross, liraylcy and others have 
 r;s'ii to be famous. ! 
 
 .St. [ohn is essentially a maritime city, lis 
 wharves .are always in tieman'd for shipjiing, 
 antl vast ijuantities of lumber, etc., are .annu- 
 ally e.sp.irled to other countries. It is indeed 
 the ffpurth among the shipping ports of the 
 wi/rlo, and St. J film ships ,'ire found in every \ 
 part of the se.is of both hemispheres. Before 
 the introfluction of steam, its clipper ships had 
 a f.niie seiond to none, and voyages were 
 made of which the tales are proudly told even 
 unto this day. 
 
 'J'he commercial or.tiook in St. Joh.n is nuist 
 encouraging. The citi/ens have rallied from 
 the terrible blow de.ilL them by the lire, aiul 
 industries of all kin^is are increasing in num- 
 ber ;md importance. I'he Cotton l-"actor\ 
 now in course of construction is but one e.Nam- 
 I'mc of the recent enterprise of the people, and 
 numerous fither instances might be addueetl 
 tf) show that one and all are working with a 
 will to .advance the prosi'.enty of the ejty. 
 
 i)ne thing m.akes a favorable im[iression .ui 
 the siran'^er. The people have intermingled 
 so much with the Americans that thty h.ave 
 much fif thi;r off-hand frankne>s .and cordi- 
 ality Little attention is paid to caste in this 
 democratic city, and the best society h.as only 
 those ba;'ricrs wlvch Sf>n;i(l common stnse 
 render necessary. The men wlio ticeupy the 
 liighesL ]iosiiions in the city to-d;iy have 
 w.irkrd hard to gain a living; and they are not 
 ashamed to own it, or to be the friends of fUher 
 workers who are still at the foot fif the ladtier. 
 
 'J'he symp.a'hies of the people are always 
 with ih'. .stranger. They like to .see visitors. 
 
 N'e.ars ago. when there was no niiKva\ to IJ.an- 
 gfir, and but two trips a week were made !)v the 
 steamer to Hoston. the arrival and dei)arlure 
 of tlie •' Vanki e Boat " were events of great 
 local intirest. .Vbfiut noon on the fla\s the 
 boat was expected, people began to intjuire at 
 the express office to learn the hour of her 
 arrival at Kastpurt. So soon ;is the expected 
 telegram came, the agent, in order to have 
 lime to attend to his business, put out a large 
 sign, announcing the hour the stt.-amer would 
 reach St. John. W^'n read the words, glanced 
 ai their wa'c'hes, anil regulated their business 
 so a.-^ to be on hand at the proper time. La- 
 dies hurrietl their shopping so as nril to be 
 late on the gre.it occasion. Everyone h.icilcefi 
 pleased. Shortly before the hour named, large 
 numbers wfnild gather around Iveed's Point, 
 and secure the most eligible places for the 
 show. At length the l<ing, loud v,histle would 
 be heard down the harbor, and at the .sound 
 coaches, express wagons and private teams all 
 came tearing down town, while on the side- 
 walks men. women and chiltlren luistened with 
 joyful feet to the scene of action. The cere- 
 iiiiiny over, the people quietly dispersed, and 
 strangers who liad seen the crowd on the 
 wh.irf. anil saw what they supposed to be 
 other crowds walking the streets, were most 
 favorably impressed with the life so apparent 
 among the peop'e. If this acetmnt be just a 
 little overdrawii, the writer has no fear. St. 
 John people are not ■' thin-skiimcd," and can 
 enjoy a joke at their expense, on any fair sub- 
 ject The most caustic allusions to the ffjg 
 cannot disturb their good nature, antl alto- 
 gether they can give and take to any extent, 
 provided the shaft be ntn tipped with downright 
 malice. 
 
 The ascent of the river to Fredericton is a 
 very enjoyable trip. Steamers leave every morn- 
 ing during the summer. Steamers also cross 
 the Bay to JJigby .and Annapoiis; and three 
 regular trips a week are made by the Interna- 
 tional Line to I'astport. Portlanfl and Boston. 
 The St. John \- Maine Railway runs daily 
 trains to Fnnkrieton and Bangor, ;md from 
 the latter place to Jioston .and other pfuts of 
 the Union. 'I'he Cir.and Southern, a new- 
 line, runs to St. (".eorge and St. Stephen every 
 alternate day. It will be thus seen that there 
 are excellent facilities for reaching .St. John ; 
 and, what is ct;ually iniijortant, there is good 
 hotel accominoi!;iti"n .after one .arrives. The 
 Dufferiii, Roy.al and others, furnisli cNcry con- 
 venience which the travelU^i c;ui desire. 
 
 Se\er.il of the lakes in the vicinity f)f St. 
 John .iffoul f lir trmit fishing, while e.xcellent 
 
:ist ;i 
 
 Si. 
 
 can 
 
 .ub- 
 
 foK 
 
 :ilt(i- 
 
 cxtcnit. 
 
 nrishi 
 
 m is a 
 nmrn- 
 
 '."OSS 
 
 ' nrcc 
 uorna- 
 5(isi(iii. 
 .!ai!y 
 froin 
 
 ruts (if 
 
 a now 
 (•viry 
 thiire 
 juliii; 
 
 ;(iiKi 
 
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 62 
 
 LXTEKCOLOM.IL RAlLllA)' OF CANADA. 
 
 
 durk and goose shoolitiR is liad at Marrs 
 Hay, a distance of 30 miles by road down the 
 shore. 
 
 Our journey is ended. Only those who have 
 attempted a similar task can reahzc the dilli- 
 culty of attemptin;^, in limited space, to do jus- 
 tice to the various points of interest in a range 
 of country so great, and where the facilities for 
 recreation and sport are so abundant. Much 
 has been left unsaid. No effort lias been made 
 to lire the imagination by glowing descri]5tions 
 of natural scenery or the pleasures of a sojourn 
 amid the places which Nature has made beauti- 
 ful. It is better that the tourist should learn 
 of these beauties by persc^nal observation, and 
 then more fully appreciate them. These pages 
 will assist him to find some of the most desira- 
 ble resorts, while the enjoyment must depend 
 upon the tune at his disjjosal 'uul .the nature of 
 his tastes. 
 
 ROD AM) RIFLi:. 
 
 While the various sections of the country 
 adapted to the wants of the sportsman have 
 been noti'-cd in their order, a few additional 
 I ..narks may be of interest. First, as to the 
 fishing. 
 
 Along the Lower St. Lawrence, in the 
 Metapedia \'al!ey, and down the shores of New 
 15runswick below Miramichi, salmon are found 
 in all the important rivers, and are of the larg- 
 est .size in the Restigouche district. While 
 many good fishing privilegi's are under lease, 
 many remain which are still open to the public ; 
 and even in the case of leased streams no dif- 
 ficulty will be found in obtaining .1 permit. 
 The recent decision of the Supreme Court is, 
 howe^'er, in favor of the rights of riparian 
 proprietors in New Brunswick, and against the 
 powcf of the (lovernment to lease the right of 
 fishir.; regardless of the ownership of the soil. 
 The regulations of the Department allow of 
 lly fishing for salmon from the 30th of April 
 to the 31st of August in ()nebec, and from 
 the isl of March to the 15th of September in 
 New Brunswick. In Nova Scotia the best 
 salmon rivers are on the .'Vllantic coast, though 
 some which were formerly good have been 
 •' fished-out," or obstructed by dams. Where 
 _;,'('()(/ fish- 
 ways have 
 bi;en put 
 
 i n , t h c . . .. - , 
 
 s t r e a m s 
 are not in- 
 jured, but 
 s m e o f 
 
 ^'^V' 
 
 the old ways s'^eni adapted for almost any [lur- 
 pose rather than the passage of salmon. One 
 river, which does not empty on the Atlantic 
 coast, deserves mention. It is the Shnbenaca- 
 die, on which some line spcjrt has been had and 
 will doubtless be had in the future. Salmon 
 cannot be fished for in the rivers to the west- 
 ward ot Halifax between the 31st of July and 
 the i.st of .March, nor in the other rivers 
 between the ijtii of August and the ist of 
 .March. None (if the rivers of Nova Scotia are 
 leased. 
 
 Trout are abundant in all the l.-.kcs, rivers 
 and estuaries along the line of railway, and 
 the fishing is a free one. The close season is 
 froni the ist of (October to the 1st of January. 
 The sea trout found in the estuaries are fine 
 fish, and though abundant in verv many places, 
 they are found in their 
 perfecticMi in the Ta- 
 busintac and I'^cumi- 
 nac. They are .greedy ; < . 
 
 biters, and it is .said, , ] 
 
 will take almost any 
 kind of fiy. The arms 
 of the sea and numer- 
 ous estuaries on the 
 •Vtlantic cc.a>-t of No- 
 va Scotia are particu- 
 arly good places lor 
 these fish, which find 
 their f e e d - 
 ing grounds 
 a m o n g t h e 
 sand Hats and 
 bars .1 n d 
 a m o n .g the 
 beds of sea- 
 weed in shoal 
 water. June and 
 July are the be.st 
 months for seek- 
 ing them, though 
 t h e y m a y b e 
 found at all sea- 
 sons. They are 
 a \ery gamy fish, 
 handsome in ap- 
 pcarrmce. and ex- 
 cellent eating. 
 
 i g ^ii r rtr- i 
 
 (N'"^" 
 
 ^^:/,^<^pcy^~:,- 
 
AOn .LXD RU-LE. 
 
 (>3 
 
 The brodk ti-otit, tli()uj(h very like the sua 
 trout, is admitted to be a different finli. It is 
 foiiiul ill its exceiieiice in lakes whii'h have an 
 outlet in the st-a, and is a very beautiful rna- 
 ture. The best tishinj^ eonunences abnut the 
 middle nf May. but good sport is had ail 
 throuj^h the season, except perhaps duriu.i,' 
 the hottest part of llie summer, when the 
 fish are a little dull. So soon as a few 
 cool ni;^hts Inucr the temperature of ii>c 
 water, the lish are ai;aui alert, .md continue 
 so until the iee forms. In sickinj;' I'or the b''sr 
 flavored trout avoid nuiddy and swampy lakes, 
 and choose tlmse with {.food bottom and clear 
 w.Uer. 
 
 As to Hies, it is difficult to give muidi ad- 
 vies. Some have been named from tune to 
 time in the preceding pages, but no attempt 
 has been made to give full infurmation on this 
 point. " Doctors differ," in regard to the best 
 flies fur the best places, and a tly which some 
 claim to be the best in use for certain rivers, 
 is pronounced worthless by other equally good 
 authorities. Tiic sportsmen should always 
 carry a good assortment, and he will seldom 
 fail to find out what is wanted in a particular 
 water in which he fishes. Captain Hardy, a 
 good authority, recommends a particular fly 
 for the Nepisiquit — " a dark fly, body of black 
 mohair, ribbed with fine gold thread, black 
 hackle, very dark niallaid wing, a narrow tip 
 of orange silk, and a \ery small feather from 
 the crest of a golden pheas.uit for a tail." 
 The variety of flies is large; and instances 
 are not rare where a lly hastily extempor- 
 ized from the first materials to he had has 
 proved to be most killing in its effects. 
 Ask fishermen now; ther'. is a gieat deal in 
 "luck." 
 
 The Lower Provinces afford the best opjjor- 
 tunities for moose and ciiibmi hunting. The 
 country lying back of the- rivers on the north- 
 east shore of New Brunswick, and the forests 
 of Cutnberland, Colchester, H.ilifax and (iuys- 
 boro, in Nova Scotia, will gi\e ail the sport 
 desired. As already stateti, Quebec has a 
 prohibitory game law as regards moose, and 
 this will continue in force until the 1st of 
 September, 1883. After that date, the close 
 season will be frnm the ist d Feljruary to the 
 1st of September. Caribou can be killed in 
 Quebec, and the season is tlie one last men- 
 tioned. The penalty for \;olation is from §5 
 to $20. The close season for ])artridge is 
 from the ist of January to the 15th (if Sep- 
 tember: for woodcock, siupe, etc.. from the 
 1st of February to the ist of September; and 
 for geese and ducks from the 1 5th of .\pril to 
 
 the 1st of September. An hour before and 
 after sunset are also set apart for the protec- 
 tion of snipe, woodcock, ducks and geese. 
 Non-residents are required to take out a hunt- 
 ing license, the cost of which is §10, and the 
 penalty for the non-compliance is double the 
 amount of the fee. 
 
 In New Hruuswick, the close season for 
 moose, caribou and deer, is from the ist of 
 February, to the istnf August. The penalty 
 is a fine of fmni gio to S60. Hunting with 
 dogs is forbidden, under a penalty nf Ci^o, and , 
 any person may kill dogs which are ch sing, 
 or can be proved to have chased, such game. 
 Three moose, five caribou or \'i\c deer, are 
 allowed to be killed by each party in any one 
 season. The flesh of such game must be ear- 
 ned out of the woods within ten days after 
 the killing, with the exception of such as is 
 killed during the latter part of December, 
 when the flesh must be carried out within 
 the first five days of Januar;c. The close 
 season for jiartridge is from the 1st of M.irch 
 to the joth of September : for woodcock and 
 snipe, to the 14th of .August. Non-residents 
 are required to take out a license, the cost of 
 which is the same as in Quebec. The fee 
 for otfiters of Her Majesty's service is five 
 dollars. 
 
 In Nova Si;otia the close season for moost; 
 and caribou is from the ist of February to the 
 1 5th of September. No one person is allowed 
 to take more than two moose and four caribou 
 in ap.y one year or season. The flesh is to be 
 carried out of the woods within ten days after 
 killing, and game killed during the latter part 
 of Januar\, shall be carried out during the first 
 five days of February. The penalty for the 
 violation of these provi'-ions is from 830 to iJ);o, 
 and a fine of §25 is imposed for huntin;:,- with 
 dogs. The close searon for partridge is be- 
 tween the first days of January and October, 
 and that of woodcock, snipe and teal between 
 the first days of March and August. Wood- 
 cock must not be killed before scnrise or after 
 sunset. Blue-winged duck mu.st not be taken 
 between the iirst days of April and August. 
 The annual licenses for non-residents expire 
 on the 1st of August. They cost S^oeach, but 
 in the case of officers of Her Majesty's service, 
 the charge is only §5 each. 
 
 The foret;oinv{ are some of the provisions of 
 the Game Laws of the three Provinces. There 
 are other provisions, in regard to tra[)ping. 
 using nets for wild fowl, hunting with artifi- 
 cial lights, etc., but as no sportsman will resort 
 to such practices, these provisions need not be 
 quuied. 
 
64 
 
 INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY OF CANADA. 
 
 In procuriiv^ the inforinaUon coiitaiiu-il in ( )umict, SuiH. nf lulication, ()ufbfc. ;i;ul Mr. 
 
 these paj;cs. tlie writer lia^ (.xperienccd nuich : W. L. .Miiiicr, Collecti r of Customs, Sai.kvilie, 
 
 kind atteiuidn from many to wlioin lie was a N. H., for hooks of reference containing vaiu- 
 
 stran)j[er, and whom he desires to tliank. An ; able information, 
 especial acknowled'^nient is ihie to Koii. ( iedeon 
 
 INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY, 
 
 HOTEL LIST. 
 
 % 
 
 'I'lie followiiii' \\A of pi-incipal liotels, with llK-ir caii.-icity for llif eiilert;ilnnicnt of quests so 
 known, on tin.- line of the lulcra.loni.il Kailuny, hclwi-i'n Halifax .ind f^)':i.l)ec, i.s given for tl 
 fornialion of lMari>ts ami the U-avellinL; pulilic j^cnL-rally ; 
 
 IIM.IKAX. I SrSSKX. 
 
 far as 
 If in- 
 
 NasIU 11' HolEl . I'KOHUIKIOK. 
 
 /llalif.ix, II. iltssclin ^; Son. . 
 
 International, .... Aicliibalil Nelson, . 
 Wavcily. ...... .Mi>s Koinan, . . . 
 
 i;i:i>rnRi). 
 
 Clarcmont House,. . . 11. ll. SiUou. . . . 
 
 No. 
 
 C'.l-liSTS. 
 
 liellc Vuc, 
 
 luiri-k.i. . 
 AVa\ uriv, 
 
 . Iho^. r.eech, 
 
 IMCTOL". 
 . 1). Mmiro, . 
 . .Mr.'.. .McLean. 
 
 N.\Mii OP ll^rin., I'uiiiaur.Toi!. 
 
 I20 I Intercolonial, ... . I'. McKay, . . 
 I GO i J)eiiot House \. McLean, . . . 
 
 ST. JOHX. 
 
 I'^Koyal, T. F. Raymond. . . 
 
 4" ! Jmllcrin L. A. Jones, 
 
 4° ; Inlern.uional U.S. Ilyke, . . . . 
 
 Wavorly J. (uithrie, . . . . 
 
 New \ictoria D. \V. McCormack, 
 
 '>o 
 
 Lark, 
 
 . Kdwanls & I'hilips. 
 
 No. • 
 lensis. 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 80 
 
 100 
 
 60 
 
 So 
 
 Norfolk, . . . 
 Royal, . . . . 
 llamiuct Hou?e 
 
 NLW GI.ASL.tjW. 
 . . .11. .Murray, . . 
 . . . .s. ('. V Iraliani, . 
 . 1). Mcbearniid, 
 
 AM 1 IF, R ST. 
 Hamilton 'Icrracc, . \V. j. Hamiilon, . 
 Lamays, N. C. Calhoun, . . 
 
 SACKVILLE. 
 
 lirnnswick House, ii. B. F.aslabrooks & Sons, 40 
 
 40 
 
 CHATHAM. 
 
 Bowser's, Mrs. Lowser, . . 
 
 Metropolitan — . Janline, . . . 
 
 Canaila House, . . . \V. ]. Johnson, . 
 
 XFW CASl'LK. 
 
 Waverlv .\. Stewart, . . . 
 
 United States J. Faye, .... 
 
 .McLean's, . . 
 
 f. McLean, 
 
 HORCHLSTLL. 
 Dorcliestcr House, . . \\. I). WiVour, . . 
 Weklon House, . . . \V. L. Wilbur, . . 
 
 shi:ll\('. 
 
 WcUlon House, . . .J. Wchlon 
 
 LOIXl DL CHENE. 
 Toinl duClKiic Hou.-e, tieo. L, Hanin;;ton, 
 
 Moxcrox. 
 
 1!.C1HI'RST. 
 
 Wilbur's J. 11. Wilbur. . 
 
 . Carter's, J.T.Carter,. . 
 
 -Q ' Albert House, . . . >trs. Crant, . . 
 
 SO ! 
 
 -^ I J.VCiJl FT LIVER. 
 
 j liarclay's W . Barclay, . . 
 
 ~ j HAI.HOUSIE. 
 
 Murphy's —-.Murphy,. . 
 
 Weldon House 
 Royal, . . . 
 
 W. J. Weidon. . . 
 
 W. Walkace 40 
 
 50 
 
 50 
 
 I'lueni.v 
 
 E. W hite 40 
 
 Mansard Ilous 
 
 I'LTITCODLAC. 
 , . . . — . Ritchie, 
 
 Thomson's, >lrs. 'liromson, 
 
 Dclaney's, — . Delaney, . 
 
 Ineharron House, . . Mrs. firant, . . 
 
 I'lullips' Mis.s I'hillips, . 
 
 C.VMLUELLTOX. 
 
 R. Dawson, . . 
 
 . T. Snroul, . . . 
 
 Xordiern Hou.-t 
 Ro\al 
 
 30 ; West's, 
 
 . J. West, 
 
 /3 
 
 40 
 
 r,o 
 1.'; 
 •5 
 
 00 
 
 5,0 
 
 10 
 
 20 
 
 1 00 
 
 25 
 25 
 
LIST or j/i)r/j..s ,i\/> A- r/y.s or /'<)sr,iur 
 
 40 
 40 
 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 80 
 
 100 
 
 60 
 
 So 
 
 /3 
 40 
 
 ^5 
 
 60 
 •5 
 
 60 
 
 
 ^>5 
 
 Mi:iAl'i:i>i.\ {.\\;,n 
 
 •I. 
 
 Kra.ser's 
 
 I'koi'Hihtiiw. 
 iJiuiicI Frasir, . 
 
 MiTi.i; Mi;ris, 
 
 'I'liiiill ll.il!, . k liin-ilT, 
 
 Sea Side- ll.nis;',, . \V. Riiie 
 
 '''"•■n('l\ Win. Tun-iCr, . 
 
 Kuailici-siDiic's Ml-,. (■'c.ulii.T.'.iom', 
 
 KIMDl >KI. 
 I>i)liiiiiiiiii, . . . Mis. I.ipas;!.-, 
 
 Kiiiu.iiNlii. . , I IS. ^t. I.aiiii-ni, . 
 
 Si. I,.r,vu'iui\ . . .\. S. .Si. I.aiufiu, , 
 
 IWC. 
 I!k I louse, ..... Mis. Drsilicrc, 
 IKOIS I'ls'ioi i.;s. 
 
 ••'"Ii^- ■> Mi.ss I'. Cole, . 
 
 '''■■O'-^'- . . I>a\i.l I)rn, . , 
 
 "■ii'i'ii"'-. . jule., |)am()ur, . 
 
 KIN'l.K I>r 1,111 I'. 
 
 U.anichLlles Caiiniei <V I (loniie, 
 
 I<is, l)L'sl(nii'it'is, . , 
 
 r\a)rN.\. 
 
 Ci'Ksrs ^'AM|■(ll' Hort-i. I'hoiriitik 
 
 . ;oo •'^'- l.avMi'iiie Kali, . . Saiii'l W.iil.i.l 
 
 .No 
 
 IJl'UM- 
 
 lOO 
 
 '5° licauliciis', 
 
 
 I!( aii)ir's . 
 
 .jn 
 
 liiTiiicis', . 
 
 40 
 
 1 X liiiiiiR'aii 
 
 40 
 
 Cole's, . , 
 
 lVaser\ ille. 
 
 \ i< IcirM, 
 
 M. l.<'Ui.. , . 
 Russell I loiisf, 
 
 .\ll)iiiii 
 
 I leiiclu-s '•-. 
 
 K \\!(H k A.SK.V, 
 
 • .Mrs, .\. (Kijjue, 
 Mr-. iieaiil,<;iis, . . 
 ■ . leu U Heaiipres, 
 
 sr rii'i.M.vs 
 
 I'. .\. lk'niier>., . . . 
 I Hiiis I.eicuMaieau, , 
 . Mrs. C. Cole, . . 
 
 I'nIXl |r\l. 
 Mrs. TolieM, 
 
 <,il I'ni'C. 
 
 \\ . Russell, .M iiia^er, 
 W. Russell. . , .", 
 1 . Iilouii, .... 
 .11 Heiuliev, . : 
 
 -'o MoiniUiiu Hill lluu.se, V.. iJioii, 
 
 -5 
 
 Iro 
 
 300 
 ioo 
 200 
 
 ICK) 
 50 
 
 CANADIAN RATES OF POSTAGE. 
 
 Letters..- I i.o|., .,1 local (an.l .Xewspapeis am! Transient New.-papeis hikI IViio.lieuN eiiil.r 
 
 lV-no,l,cais io, dehveiy l.y carriers). I eei.t each; seiil to any pan ol Cuia-la, .\ru lounUlaii.l ,:i 
 
 to any part uf lioininion or Cnilecl States, 3 ceiils Cniici stales iii i cent 
 Jicr '/^ o/.i lo New roiiiullaiiil audi, real Hril.iiii, 
 
 5 Ctl.lS pc I 1, o/. 
 
 - pape^rs, etc., can be sent l.y mail to all p.irls ol 
 
 I ost Cards - IXamnKni or i;ia;c,l M:,!es. 1 ecu ihc world, at low late.s, and retd.sien d \i,m1-,ii,.. 
 
 each ; lo Newfoundland, ( deal l!iil,-,n, a,„l Rosl.d li.,Me to Customs duties can l.e s.iu In m.dl to the 
 
 L'liiied Stales only. 
 
 It |)er 4 u/.,. 
 Books, patten. ,, sample-, legal ami ' omnu;rei;,l 
 
 L'nioii Countiies, 2 eenN. 
 Newspapers and P,.'riodicals piinied in Can 
 
 Money, or artielesof value. should he rei-islcred 
 
 ada, not less fre pKnlly than once a month, mailed A RoM-ofiiee order is safer th.m re-isi,;ui,,„ f, i- 
 from oihce ol publi, atioii, or a News ,\Kency to suli nione-. . 
 
 scrihers or News .\gents in Canada, not lesidim; in 
 place of puhlieatioii are free ; al.-o. iliosi' published 
 111 the i luted Kiiig(h)iii, and sent li\ mail to 
 liorjksellers or News Agent.s in (.'.inada, ina\ he re. 
 mailed b\ them to suliscribers, free of postage. 
 
 h\plosiv< -(il)s!anees. glass or Ii,|uids, cannot he 
 >cnl li\ mail. 
 
 Mails close about an Ihuir I'elore the de|iarture 
 il till' trains or steamers on v Inch the\ are carried. 
 
 50 
 
 20 
 
 20 
 
 100 
 
 25 
 
 25 
 
..*..^v