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Photographic
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23 WEST MAIN STRFET
WEBSTER, NY. MS80
(7161 »73-4S03
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NAUHATIVE
OF
A VOYA(iK TO TlfE POLAR SEA
II I
!4
BT
CAl'T'. SIR (\. S. XAKKS, 11. \., K.C.Ji., F.ll.S.
('(iMMAMiKU III" Tni; i;M"i:i>rri<ix
WITH SOTES u„ (h, SATIHAI. /f/S/Ofn'
«
KIIITKI) BY
H. W. I'KILDKX, K(i.S., Cl.M.Z.S., K.K.Ci.S. C\^
.\Airil\LI.-T r<) THE KXrElllTMX
IN T\V(» VOMMKS
VOL I
(V
^^
LONDON
SAAIP8UN Low. MAKSTON, SKAKLK, & RIVINGTON
Ci:u\VN BUILUINOS, 188 FLKKl' STUEKT
1878
All fitjlil' It irrrfil
>
I
^.t*
TIIKSK V^)LU.MKS AUK INS('iaiU:i)
IN MKMdIiV OK rilK I.ATK
lUGirr IIOX. GEOUdE WARD HUNT, M.P.
INDKIt WIIOSK ADMINIKTUATION AS I'lUST I.OIID
Ol' Tin: ADMIKAI/IY
Tin-; AUcTJr kxphdition ok i.«<7:>
WAS l'!,A."NKI> AND CAlllUKl) INTO ICXKCUTION, AND WIIOSK
(iKNKllOUS AM) (DNSJSTKNT ENCOUHAOKMENT AHV
SLTI'oUT Wll.l, KVKii BE ItEMEMIlEUEIl
WITH (iUATlTrUK ANlJ ItESPECT
BY
TiiK Airnioii.
I
M
Is
M
.-hi
Sc
tlu
ex
in:
L!"( )
oil
iliv
T 11
)n;i
s,,l
l)V
Vn
TEEFACE.
I
I
In the IcIldwiiiLf ii;ii'i";!ti\(' T Iimnc ciKlcnv'HircMl to L'ive
M |>l;iiii iiiid rMijlil'iil iK'cniiiit (»r llic V(>yjiL2V ol" II. M.
sliips • AK'f! " .-iiul • I )i'<cn\i'i-y ' in Mini iVoiii the Pohii-
ScM ; toLrctluT with the i-('-<iiIls of the cxploriitioiis
wliicli wcic iichIc ;i1oii<j' '\\^ -^lioics, mikI o\('f tlic ice in
llu' (liiTctioii (iI'iIk' North I'olo, l)v iik'miis of >lt'(l<jiiiLr.
T h.MW written for the iiifoniiatioii of fiitiii'c Arctic
explorer^: niid nl^o under ;i fcclinL' of (hity to the
niiiiiy. l)oth ill this coimlry ;iii<l ;il>ro;id, whose earnest
Lfnod wishes and kind >yini:atiries were with us (hiring'
our ahsenci'.
As the t'Xjx'ctatioiis which were entertained re-
L^ai"(hnLr oui' reachinu" the North Tolewere not realized,
T must, in justice to the LMllant men whom I com-
manded, express my firm conviction that it was due
solely to the fact that the Xt)i'tli Pole is unattainable
l)V the Smith Sound route.
ft'
The Illustrations in the prest'iit work are eitlu-r
reproductions of photoLM'a|)hs taken by Mi*. F. ^litchell,
Tavmaster of II. M.S. ' DiscoveiT,' and Mr. Geor<ie
T
Mil
i'i:i;i Aci:.
WlliU', A>-i>l:iiii I'liiLfiiirrr ••!' I I.M.S. " Ah-rl." <»r iVtMii
>ki'Ifli('<< !;ik('ii on tlic --iMii liy I )r. Ivlujird Mn-«s. M.D.,
Sliri2\'<>li of II.M.S •AK'll.' IJclltrii.iii! (i. !,(' C.
KlH'|-|oii. iiiid Mr. Miiclu'Il.
Till' N;illir;il Ili'^Ii'lT cullri'liMiis iiiiidc l»y the l\V(t
ll;lill^;lli-^t"- wild were ;ill:iclu'<| lo ijic IvxjK'dit inn wcrr,
(til ilic rccdiiiiiiciidjilinii dt'ilu" rrcNidriil ;iiid ( 'oiincil of
(lie lii»\;ll Soriclw >lli)lilittcd t • • ^j ,(.ri;di>l >>. w In » li;i\('
iin»<i kiiidh' iiiid Liciirrnii^U' dr;i\vii up t'lill i-cpnrix nii
I Ik' \ ;iri< iii> u'i'i iii|>-. Many < 't' 1 lic^r papiT^ lia\ c ain-ady
Itt'cn piihliNlicd in tin- pii H-ccdiiiLrs of \ai'it»ii^ Icanicd
s(icit'tii'<. In liu- .\|»|>('!idif('«. i<» ilii^ wnrk, my iViciid
Caiilain l''fildcii. lIu- natiirali-l attaflicd to ilic • Alcrl,]
in addition in Niipplyin^ nriLi'ina! papcr^. lia^ arraiiLTd
in an ahridL'cd t'nrni lli('-«r xaliiaMr cniiirilxitinn^ In
Natural Ili-inrv.
I liiniiLiliniit ilic iiarrali\i' llu' cniiipass hcariiiii's
I'l'K-r In lin- iriic nu'ridiaii : and liu' tcnipcraimx'
nl)st'i'\aliniis arc t'.\prcvn'(l in (U-grci's of rahivnlieil.
a
G. S. Naui:
MiaiiniN : April, Ie!7"<.
til TIIK.
OFFTCEIIS AND Mi:X.
II.. M.S. • .\L1:i;T.'
'tl'I'ICKits.
rii|itiiiii (intir^'-c S. Xtiiv.s.
('niiniiaiulcr AllMjrt II. .Miirkliaiii.
Ciil.taiii II. \V. iM'ilil.'ii, 1{..\.,
hiitiinilist.
Sfiiiiir Liciili'iiant I'clliaiii .Miliicli.
liifi.tfiiant \. \. ( ". I'air.
I,ifiit('iiaiii 1 i. A. ( iiHard.
Mt'iitfiianl \\ . II. May.
I'li'ci-Siirf.'f'>ti 'riiDiiia.-; ("iilun, M.I>.
SiiiVfoii i:. L. .M(»ss, M.l).
I!i'\. W. II. I'tillt'ii, riiaplaiii.
Sul)-!,ifut. (uiorfj-t' Le C. I'Jjrertuu.
.lanifs W'oottnii, t'liiriiicor.
• ii'i)r'''e Whik', ciiiiintrr.
mi:n.
(iiDiyc I. UiiiTMU^'li.'^, .-hip's sti'Ward.
.Ii).-c|ili riiMiil, cliii't' liiiat.-waiii's matt'.
.Iiilm N. IJadiimrt', cliicf rarpoiiterV
malt'.
Nincfiit l>()iiiiiiicti, .sliipV cook,
.loliii Thoies, ice quarti'nua.stt'V.
.luiiics JJeirif, ice quaitermustt'iv,
Davitl Dfiifhars, ice (|iiaitfi'iiiastt'r.
I'idwiii Lawreiici', ^'iiiinerV mate.
Jamc:'' Doidj,'u, (•aptaiii i'gretDp.
Daiiit'l W. Ilailt V, captain forctop.
'riuimasSiiickl).'iTV, captain maintop.
Tliniiia- Ifaw lins. captain t'orcciustlc.
Tiiunia.H .lollillc. captain maintop.
Spent Cajtato, captain's steward.
( luortrc l\iiiii>li, wardiooni ati-ward.
J(din I lau kins, cooper,
.loim SinnnoM.s. :.'nd captain maintop.
.\dam Ayles, I'nd captain foretttp.
Ilt'iuy Mann, shipwriuiht.
.lames Self, able .seannin.
\\ illiam Maskell, able seamou.
William 1*. Wnolley, able seaman,
(leorvc Cranston, able .-eaman.
ItoiibtMi Franconilx', able seaman,
.lolm I'earson, able .seaman.
\\ illiam l''erbrache, aide .seaman.
Allred \\. IVarce. able .seannm.
David .Milcliell, able .-^eaman.
Robert I). .Syiiionds, able seaman.
Thomas If. Simpson, able .seaman.
William Malley. able seaman,
(ieor^'e W'instone, able .seaman.
William Lorimer, able seaman,
.lamos I'Vederick Cane, armouivr,
Hubert Joiner, leading' stoker,
.lolm Shirley, stoker.
'J'honnis St nbbs, stoker.
William 1. Ciore, stoker.
X
1, 1ST di" ilii 111 liri;i;s \Nh mi;n,
Williimi Hunt, wartlrooni i''><>l<. ^^ i"'"'!" I-Haiil. prixat.'.
N. (• I'.i.iMii. i;-kim«> iMli'r|»n'li'r. .I"liii llilliii-'. I'lixal.-.
FpHU'iifk. (Iiv. iilaiiil.T j Tli'ima- Sniilli. piivali'.
I ( tc'iivf I'lirltT. ;.'iiiilUT.
NVilliaiii N\ "I'll. inli'ur -.rirranl. Tlinniii' (hiKli'V, i.'"""''''-
IIM.s • lUS('n\ i;i;v;
• iKFMCKH*".
Captain llt'iin I". St('iilifii>Mii.
Senior Lifut. ',i\vi« A. Uraiiiiiciit.
Lifiitfiiaiit Ii'nlii'i'i II. Arclifv.
liii'iilt'uaiit \\ vatt IJawxiii.
liifiitt'iiaiit l!t'^:iiialil U. I'liU'Mii.
Stat]-Siuv"'<'>i Ufli;ra\c Niiini:-. M.I>.
Siiivonii liirliani \N . ( 'cipiiin^'t r.
Clinrl'"' i;. lliMlyxni, cliaplain.
('Iiirlii>t.'r Hurt, li A . nalmalist.
Suli-Lii'iitfiii'.iit ('. I M. ('iiii_\l»farf.
l)aiiiel ('aitiiirl. t'UL'inccr.
Mattlii'W 11. Millt-r, t'h^'iiici'r.
Thomas Miii'ln'll. ilssi^'tatlt-ll:l\ -
MIN.
(ifovt."' I!. Saiiili, ■■liip's sfowai'd.
(mmul''' A\ . I'lniintTMiii, cliifl bnat-
a\viiin"s unite.
]■'. t '. lidily, cliief rapfainV matf.
Alt'-xamicr < irriy, ice 'jiiartcnnn^tor.
Williain Iluii;.'all, ice ijiiartfrniaHtor.
Kihvard Taws, ice ([iinitfrniasti'i-.
(IniiV Hnanl, cajMaiii iiiaintnp.
I'lanli Cliati'l, captain t'ciitca>tle.
David Stfwnrt, captain furt-tnp.
Tlionins Sininion.s raittidn Ibrecnxtlc.
(icnvL't' linnvan, nijifniakcr.
William \\ nnl, arnioiirt'i'.
Jnuit'8 .Sli»»])luTd, coopor.
Jnjin I^. Smitli. sailmaker.
.luhali ( it'ar. wardniuiu •'ti'waril.
( ii'(ir!.'t> Stoni', L'nd captain rnictiip.
•laint's Ci'iipcr, I'lid captain nniintop.
Hrniv \\ . i'dwai'ds, aide seaman.
HtMijaniiii \\'\att, alilc seaman.
Daniel (iirani, aide >eaman.
.Michael li'eiran, alilc seannin.
TImnia-- t'halkley, alile seaniiin.
.Iiiliii lliiiL'e», aide -eaman.
.lame- Tlmridiack, aide seanuiii.
.MlVod Kindle, alile >eainan.
I'eter ( 'raijr, able seanam.
(ie<ir;.'e I,e;/;.'att, al)le M'ainan.
IJ'dieit W . nit(dM'(i(d\. able scannin.
.Ii'hn S. .'^u.rp'fS ftl'l'' scftiimii.
.lame- .1. Hand, aide -eamaii.
( 'harle- I'anl, ahU' -eaman.
Heiin \\ ind-er, carpenlei's crew,
.lames i'hillip<, wardriiian cnuk.
.I'lemiah Itoiirke, leadin;; st<d\er.
I'ninii .liiiics, >i(d<er.
Samuel Mnllcy, stoker.
William IJ. Sweet, sluker.
Hans lleindricli. (inenlai:der.
MA HINDS.
Wiiliani <". Welline'tnn, .ser^'ennt.
\\ il-dii Holiin;.', uumier.
,liilin ( "rop|i, ^Minner.
lilijali li'ayner, ;.'iiniier.
William Waller, private.
Tliomas Harke, juivalc.
.John Murray, private.
' Henry I'cUy, i)nvate.
SAILTNG OKDiniS.
A liMIKAi.l 1 •.'.'llll Mill/. \H''t.
Sm, Her Miijotv's ( !ci\riiiiii<ii( lijiviiiir dt Icriniiicil tli;it. ,111
fX|M'iliti(iii of Arctic c.\|ili>rutinn juul disc ■ ■ rv si 'luM lie jidif
tllkcll. My l-nlds ('oiimiissioIlCI'S nf llir .\dinil dtA .i.iSC liro;
j»l' I: d to scltH't you fur till' cimiiiiiinil df" tlicsniii fxpcditinn. the
>^cn|i(' jiiiil |)riiii;i'y olijrct til" w liicli slioidd lie lo iii t;iiii tlic iiitiiicst
iiortlicrii liitididf, ;iiid. if possiMr. tn rcncli tlic N'ditli I'nic. and
tVoiii ".viiitcf (|Ufirti'i'> til cxiiloi'c the ndi.ic''iil coustH witliiii tiic
I'cacli (if traxclliiii.' |»iirtirs. tlic limits (if sliip iiii\ iv'.'itidii liciiiL,' cnii
fined within .didut the iiicridians of llO iind I'll wet IdiiLrilndc.
■_*. Ilcr MaJcstyV shi|is ' Alcit ' and * I discovery ' liavini; hen
s|»('cially littcd dut for this .service, I am coniniandeil hy tiieii"
li(»r(lshi|is to si^rnifv *licii' direction to yon. so soon as the said
vess» Is shall he in all resiiecl> (■()ni|i|>eil an I ready, to take ihe
' I Mscovery ' nnder yonr orders, .a nd put td sea with lioth \"esscls.
callin;,' at t^'neenstuwn to cdniplete with coal, or scndin<.j in the
'A'alorons' (wiiicii will accompany the expedition to l)is('o). for
that [iin'posc if more convenient, proceedinif thence to Hisco. in-
Davis Sti-ait. and noitliwaids hy way df Uallin's I'.ay and Smith'.s
Sound, to cairy out the special service of discovery .ind exphji'ation
with winch von have licen entrusted.
;5. Jlcr Majesty's ship ' N'alorons ' will r(M"eive on hojird extra
coal and stores, »Vc., for the expedition, and will he availalde for
towiny when rcfiuisito. Cajtt.'iin Loftus Jones has lieen directed
to consider him.self under your oi-ders teuiporurily. and after tran-
sliippinir stores, A-c. at l)isco, he is to return to l)ovonport in tho
Valorous' in tinal execution of his f)i{lers.
4. Th(! 'Alert' and 'Discovery' aftor Icavini^ Di.sco should
procoi'd to tho settlements of Proven uml I'pcrnivik for dogs,
Nil
SAii.iN(; ()i;i»i:i;s.
i»
Kskiiiio (liivci-s. \-c.. hik! then pass up to Smith Suuiitl in the
liioscrutidii (if tlif tiit<M|ii'is«'. aiiil H will 1k> u <(iU'.>titiii lor yoh to
fonsiilcr u lictlicr you uoiiltl leave a d\>'>i ot" provisions iiiul a l>oat
at tlie ('iiiey Isl.iiiils on pa»iiii,'.
.'). I'Mith slioi-es in the vicinity of ('ajM's Isahella iind Alexaiidcr
should lie exaniiiieil in ordei to Neh-ct a Miitaltle position tor the
depnl ol' nlief ship wliieh wiU. in the event of the exjiedition re-
inainini.' in the Arctic rei^ion-. ''e despati'heil in 1^77 : hiit as >uch
a po>itii)n c.innot Ik- ulisohitely determined on Ipeforehand. ami it
is necessary to decide u iiere int'orniatioii will l>e t'ound liy •my ship
which mav lie sviliseipientlv >ent out tVom l''n;,dand. I.yttcltoii
Island, in tiie opiidon ot" competent authorities, nu'cts all the
ro(|iiiremeni> of a fixed point (»f rendc/.vons. Here a con>picuons
■C'.iirn shouM li' eri cted ; one record placed in the cairn, another
laid lioidi' it on the iiortli side, and a third luiried twenty feet duo
north of it. These reords should contain proceeiliuirs of th<'
voyaiic aiul such information jus may he necessary for the I'om-
uiaiuler of the ship to lie dopatched in lfS77.
<i. Till' ships >hiiidil then proceed up Smitii Sound w ith all
s])eorl. so loni: as it> navi-^'ation is nut >eriously ohstructed liy ice,
a careful scrutinv lieiii;.' made of its shores for places of seciu'itv
I •-
for the ships, stopping.' only to erect cairns on such umspicuous
points as may he conveniently landed on. Similar int'ormalion
should lie placed at the>-e (•;iirn>. and alter the same method as
descrilx'd foi- the cairn on J.yttelton Island. It i>. moreover,
necessary to In' hori'.' in mind tliat tlie.se records of the pro^'ress
of the ex]ieditiiin and of any chan<.'e of plans you may iiave found
neees,>arv to make, form an important te;iture in the^' instructions.
7. It is di>iralile ih.nt thesi' c;iirns >hould not lie moio than
sixty mile> apart. I'.y way of illustration, may U' named ('apes
Fi'azer, liack. ami lleechey on the western shore, an«l Capes.Jack-
.son and Ihyaii on tiie eastern sh<ire: to these prondnent headlands
lh<' att<'ntion of any searching.' party would naturally lie directed.
A small depi'it of provisions and a lioat mi<,'ht also Iw .-ulvan-
tii<;eously left at one or mor" of these points, to serve eitiier for
i;xplorint; parties or to aid in the event of an ahandoinmiit of the
.ships. Timely einleavours shoidd lie made to secme anchora^'C!
suitalile for winter tjuartei-s. and every precaution during; that
rigorous sejuson, which your former experience, as \\v]\ as that of
other Arctic voyagers, may suggest, is to he Uikeii, for the health
am
ace
fur
M.
I lot
aiii
se
th
re
si.
mu
po
eve
■
SAIMNiJ OUDKKS.
Xlll
■•mil (•(inifoi't of the offict'i's iind crew. Ainplf su|»|tlifs Iiave
iurortliiiuly Ikh-ii fnniislicd to the expedition ; .•iml you liiive lieeii
funiished witli a ineiiioraiidiini tVom rlie I >iiect()r-( Jeiiei'nl of tlie
Medical I )e|iartiiieiit ot tlie Navy on the .sul)jec't,
S. 'I'lie yeiieral desiifn of the e\| sedition shoidd l»e, that w Idh*
Iwth sliijis woidd siiai'e as far as pd-silile in the olijecls of discovery
and exphn'ation, one must J>e sd placed tliat she would not only
serve for the crew of the other to fall hack upon. Imt also, that
the united crews coidd, without doul)t, escape from her to tlu'
lelief ship at the entrance of Smith Sound, l>y means of their
sle<li;es am'; hoats ovei- tlie ice. ( 'onsei|iientIy. the second ship
must not he cariietl noi'thward of the Si'nd pandlel ; such a
jiosition would secure tliis most iiuportaut oliject. ami also atford
every prospect of exploration into \ery hii;li latitudes.
il. The easti-rn or the westei'U shore may lie selei'ted for her
winter (piaiters accordiu;,' to circumstances; the advantages of the
former are, that, animal life has lieen I'ound to exist there tlii'oui^di-
oiit the winter, ami that the shiji wouhl U- favouralily placed for
exploi'in,!^ the northern coast of ( Jreeidand, oradjai-eiit land, in the
sprim; of IST*) : on the other hand, if the laud is fouml to Ik-
more continuous on the western side, it may atlonl a cttuntor-
lialanciny advantai^e in the ^rreater facility am! .-ecurity of com-
nninicaliou lietwcen the ships, and tiieir C(»-operation in suhscipient
ojM'rations ; this point must, thei'efore. Iw left to your judgment
to decide: if you should select the western shore, then you shotdd
he careful in pjissini,', or sul>sei|uently, to place a iccord on the
eastern side of the prohahle or ahsolute position of the second
ship ; and in the alisence of any conspicuous cairn, a shi]i or party
visitiuif till' hay wintered in hy the ' I'olari^.' in aliout Si .'?.')
north, would naturally seek the position of Hall's i;rave, w hoi-e.
and at twenty feet due north of it. records would he ex|H>cted to he
foinid.
l<>. The captain of the second ship, wheiever placed, would
follow such instructions as he will have received on partinir eom-
pany, or suhsecpiently, fnuii yourself.
11. it sho\dd he a ma'ter for con.sideration. whether, hefore
partiut;, you woid<l leave .1 depot of .sonic six months' of the
' Alert's' i>rovisions with your cou.sort, so as to he iivailahle foi-
your own crew should they have to retreat, hut time and ciirum-
utances nuist govern yoin* decision on this point.
.1
■V-.-
iM
xi\
SAlLlNfi OIIDKHS,
12. Hiiviiii; MSsiirtMl youi-sflf of tlif siifcty of vour consort, aiul
intToascd voiif (uvn crew l)y such |)nition of Iht crew as you iiiiiy
(Icciii ut'cc>.->iirv to ciialil'' yon to accciniilisli a slt'<li:ilii,' attempt to
i-ca.li the Pole (tliis hfin^ the main teaiiiie of the e\|H'(litioii), ar.d
al>o the e\|>h>i'alion of yoiif shai'e of tlie coast-line extendim,'
nortliwai-ijs. yon should, as le.ider of the eX|>i'dilion. tiieu |insh on
nortlivvai'il. and exphtre liy ship as much of the ind<no\vn area as
the season and tlie stalt of the icewoiiM pi'iniil. Ihit it is not
coiUemplat'd that the two ^hips shouM winter at a irreater distance
apart than aliont :^"(i miles; and if yon aihanee with \onc ship
Iteviind thai point in 1S7."), you slionhl use cni ry endeavour to
It-turn within the •_'( Ml miles' di>lani'e : or the case may arise, in
wliich it niav he evi'u wi>e to rejoin ynur con^oil and unite the
fori'i's of hdili ships for exploration in the spi-im,' and snnoiicr of
].'). Should the advance shi)i, after leavin<jf liei- consort, carry
cuntiimous. or nearly continuous land ti[) to a hi^li northern latitude,
von should avail yotu'self of opportunities to land small depots of
provisions at niteivals, with c'airn> ami recoiils as already ile-
scrilii'd : and also to deposit at the most northern station, a depot
of jirovisions and a hoat. for yoiu' sprimj; travelliuL' parties.
1 k VotU' own eiew having lieen inereaM'il as alxive referred to,
liv such portions ol' tin' en'W of yniir consort as you may deeni
ne.ess;uv. it is expect'd thal\i>u will have at least six strong'
sledge partie.-. and fair i\(«^ >ledi;es, with which to couunence
further ex]>loration in early spiiuif. All the.->e ]iarties slioidd l)e
emjiloved in the first instance to push out the Nortii l*oIe party
(which -lioiild lie provided with at least one hoat), and upon return
from this work, snun' weeks later, the parties for the exploration
of the coa.stlines .--hoiild he sent out.
1."). it mu>t 11' it. however, lie lost sij.dit of that, in the alisence
of continuous land, slediro travellinti has neviT yet been found
practicaiile o\er any cousideralile extent of unenclosed frozen sea,
allhouLih eoiiditiiniN may lie t'ound to exist which would enalile
parties to travel tor limited distances iiy sledtje antl l)oat op"rations
conihined, and for this |)iirpose the in>t hoats ami sled;.,'es that can
lx»devistd have heeii siip|ilied.
10. Von will he careful to furnish ample instnictious to the
captain of the * I )isco\c'ry,' e.-pecially in regard to the explorations
to lie iniderlaken hy him diiriiii.; the spring' ami Niimmer of 1S7(!.
'i
shot!
si.l.-
is7f
vor_\"
doi^
Lion.
the
ceei
ij
i
51
SAii.iNii (tKi)i:i;s.
XV
hIiouM tht' ships \vint<M' ii]).ii-t : aiiil in tliis ovciit, the fii-st con-
sidcrjition should he, in the aiiluuiii of \^~'i or ciiily spriiii; of
IS7<1, tt) iisccrtain Umir r('S)>rctivt' jMisitions; this, iinlt'ss inwlci"
v»?rv uiifuvuiif.ihlc conditions, would lit> prohahly acconililishc I hy
doj:; jKirtits, without intcrfi'i-inu much with tin- oltji'cts of I'xplora-
Lion. In conu'.ction w itii this sidijcct, you should U-ai- in mind
the necessity of i^ivint; ^U(■h instructions ;ts would i,'ovfi'U his pi-o-
cccdin,i;s in thr cM'nt of this proving' to 1h' a final x-paration.
17. it lias already l.een i,ieutioneil that the limits of shi}>
navii,'ation should i)e conlined within ahuit the nii'iidians of 20^
and IKP ivtwt lon,<,'ituile : hut even within the>e limit.-, tho possible
contini,'ency of a final sepaiation luiLjIit arise from soni" suilden
and unfoi'cseen uu)venu'nt of ice from which one or hoth of the
Hhi[)s I'ould not he extricated ; resulting;, it may lie. in the advanced
ship iieiuL; carried hy the southerly drift passiui^ the ea>torn shoit*
of (Jreeidand s.upposini,' (inenland tn lie an island.
IS. I' will he impossihle therefore to j,'ive any positive or
detailetl instructions for your guidance after (piittini^ your con.sort,
further than that you shouhl use your hcst endeavours to i-ejoin
her in the na\i'jalile season of |S7ti. and in company with her
n'tui'ii to i'in;,dand, provide<l the spring exploration ha> Intni
reasoiialily successful. Ihit in the <'\cnt of another seasou l»ein^
aiisolutely reipiired to complete a I'casonalile amount of exploration,
still it will lie a matter for careful consideration, whether it would
not lie advisalile that the ad\aiici'd ship should fall hai-h towards
her consort from any ad\anced positi(*n she may have wintered at;
ami. should it still remain douhlfiil whethei- a final retreat cnuld
he effected, the second ship mi,i,'ht not he moved southward to such
a position as would .secure it.
lit. In IS77 you are at full lilierty to ahaudou your ship as
early as couNcnient. if, in your opinion, the explorations of the
lirecediuif yi-ar have heen final, or, if from your oxpt'iience of the
naviy-ahle seasons of ls7."> and 1S7G, in yiUM" judirment, lier
escape in 1S77 would he douKtful : you should in this case so time
this abandonment as to i-each the relief ship ;it tlu' entrance of
Smith Sound not later than the first werk in Septeudier |S77.
l'O. \n the event of your remaining out in the hope of t'xtri-
catinj,' your own, or it may be both ships. <lin-iuv; the summer of
1^77, you should consider the propriety of reilucin^' your own or
both crewa, sending away all that can be spared to the relief shij)
^-
/
.Mm
XVI
s.\ii-iN<: <)i;im:i.s.
• il lA'ttf'ltiin Tsliiiid. In tliis i-;is(' our or U\t]\ sliips woulil remain
out for tlif wiiitci- of 1S77. if iiiiiil'lt' to cxtriratr tlioiusclvcs in tin-
suninicr of tliiit year, a coiitini^'iu'v wliicli is lianlly possilijc.
■Jl. Von iiiust. li()Wr\or, lio;ii' in mind, tliat it is not d('siral>l(>,
under ruiv ciicunistanf-s. that a .sinijlc ship shoiihl 1k' h-ft to
wintnT in thr Arete I'eu'ions. If one ship i-eniains n|> Sniitii
Sound, a seci'iid slii]' siinuld remain at the reuilf/vous at its
entranee.
'2'2. In the suninit'r of I S77. a i-elief or depot >hi|iNvill lie di-
spatehed to Smitii's Sound, and siie will 1k' directed, in the first
instanee. ti> repair to l.yttelton Island, and then to follow sueli
instruetions as you may ha\e deposited in theeaiin thei-e. The
instructions you will leave for Hiis ship, so tar as they nee<l Ik-
deeideil on at |»reseut. are, that siie is to lie found at the rendezvous,
specified in t lie records at the cairn, not later than the last week
in August 1S77. She will l>e ei|uip|MMl and fitted fta- winterini;; in
the Polar Seas. ainl. in the event of there Keiui.' no tidings of tlio
exi>edition nor in>tru(tioiis to the conti'ary. in the records to lie
found at the reiide/.vous you will have naniecl. >lu' will he ordered
to pass one winter at that rendezvou.s. retui'ning (o Kngland lYi t'le
lat<\st part of tlit- iiavi^'al'le season of ls7s.
■J.'?. II'. under the circumstances .-lUnded to in pai-agraph L'O,
tlie retreating paitie^ slunihl arrive at l.yttelton Island in 1S7S.
and timl no relief shiji there, or no intelligence of her, it will he
t.-ikeii for L'riinted that some unforeseen accident has pr<'venti'd her
reaching hyitelton Island, and in that ca.se the retreating parties
must rely on their own rest mrces for reaching I pernivik, lookinn
out. of course, for the u halers on liieir lishing grounds. iMt ucen the
months of May and August. The expedition will, in any case,
on its leturn. revisit the cairn on Lyttelton Island, and leave
nH'ords.
•Jl. Should the .-eason of ls7.'") 1m' so nnfavoiu'alile a.s tti
prevent the expedition from penetrating heyond the 7'Jtli parallel,
it is left to your disci etion to dtvide whether the ships shall winter
tiiere, or return to Kmrland and reii('\%- the attempt the following
year.
■Jf). Although the exjw'dition intrusted to yom- charge Ls ono of
exploration and discovery, it must 1m- ke,,t in view that detailed
surveys are unnecessary. The recpiin-nients of hydrography and
geography will he provided fir if the prominenf features ami
SAIMN(; ()I!T>EI{S.
XVll
2f'iirr;il outline of (he .^liorcs aic Kkt-tflu'd in as fiiitlifiilly as cir-
cMiiistaiict's will lulniit : and to onsin-c tlrii' rt'coj^nition by fiitiiro
ox|)loi('rs. Ill tlio (letfnninatioii of tin- astrononnCal position of
tilt' |)i-inci|tal points, no doiilits sliouM l>t' pciinittod to exist as to
the fidelity of the results tiiat may lie arri\ed at. so as to ensure
c'onlidenee and re.speet.
•_*(). Further, as the olijeet of the expedition is for tiie ailvance-
nipnt of science and natural knowledge, tlie memoranda fnrnisheil
liy the Hoval and Jtoyal ( !eo<rra]>hical Societies of London, at the
re(|uest of theii" Lordships, are supplied for yoin- i^uidance. The
most apjiroved instruments have Iteen furnished to you for the
]>urpose of ]>ursuin<:j rese.airli in the sevei-al hninches of ])liysical
science, and as cei-t^iin of your otlicers have heen spirially instructed
in the modes of ohservini;. you will take care to ^ive thi'm eveiv
fair opportunity of .iddini,' their contrilaitions thei-oto.
'27. Vou will iil.so receive assist.mce from the two ijentlemeu
who h.ave heen appointed as naturalists to the expedition; and
every reasonable facility shoidd be iriven for the colh'ction and pie-
scrvation of sui'li specimens of the animal, vegetable, and mineral
kinndoms as can Ix' conveniently stowed on Invard the ships.
These sju'cimens ;ire toln' considered the pidpei'ty of Jler Majesty's
(lovernnieiit. and to Im- at their ilispoNil.
L*S. In case of any iirepanil'le accident hapjH'nini; tt) one of
the ships, the otlicers anil ciew of the disabled vessel ai-e to be
removed to the other, ancl such arrauLjeuients are tola.' made a-s
ajipear to you to Ik* the n\ost expedient and conducive to tlio
objects of the expedition.
'2\K In the event of the 'Alert' U-ini; the ship di>abled. my
Lords hereby authori.se you *o take command of the • Discovery,'
and in the event of any fatal accident h.ippeninic to yourself,
Captain Stephenson is hereby authorised to take command of tlio
' Alert,' placinj^ the otlicer next in seniority in command of the
' Dlscoveiy.' Ahso, in the event of your own inability, by sickness
or otherwise at any ]»eri<»(l of this service, to continue to carry
these instructions into execution, yo\i are to transfer them to the
officer the next in .seniority to you employed in the expedition,
who is hereby re<(uired by their J..oi(lships to execute thoni in the
best manner practicable for the attainment of the objects in view.
30. Every available opportunity is to be taken to communicate
your proceedings to me for their Lordships' information.
VOL. L
a
XVIII
sAiLiNc ()iM)r.i:s.
151. On your arriviil in Kiii,'l;in(l. you aiv forthwith to repair to
the Admiralty, to lay In^lore their Lonl>lii|is a full acfount of your
procoodinys ; haviui; previously i-tveivetl from the otliccrs and all
othi'r persons in (lie expedition Ihe journals or memoiaiK
da tl
loy
may have kept, and tin- eliarts, drawiiii^s. and tdtservations which
thoy may have made. Sueh of these journals and documents lus
may he of an unotlicial eli.irai'trr w ill lie ii'turneil to the writers
hen no Ioniser retjuired for the puMie reijuiienieiits of the ex-
w
iiedition.
.'{■_'. lu conclusion, my Lords de.^ire me lo state, that havinj.^
full conhdence m \<uir judirment and discretion, .and Itemg aware
that you are already familiar with Arctic s m-n ice, they do not
deem it iiecessai'v to turnish you with more delinite instructions
than an- emhr.'iced in the fo rejoin;!,'. With the ample means at
vour commaud, vou are at lihertv to varv the det^iil acconliui; to
circumstiiuces, hut the main points herein laid down foi- your
i;uidance should he ki'pt in view, all other ohjects heing .'• ihor linate
to them.
T .am. Sir,
\ our ithedient servant
(signed) KoiiKUT Ham,.
I 'aptain (iKojiuK s. Nahks. II. \.,
H..M.S. • .Ml Ti.' at I'.ift-innuili.
■J?
CONTENTS
OI"
THE FIUST VOLUxME.
CIIAPTKIJ r.
Dt'piu'tiiirt'roin I'ovtstnoiith — Buiitrv Hay — .Scaliircl^ — I'iirtcoiiipnny
with ' X'liloroiis ' — llfavy^'iilcs — C'limor ])ijr''t)iis — I>ead wliale —
Must (iri't'iilaiiii dfit't icu— Sifrlit ' Valorous' — Seals and walrus
— IK'srriptiuii of jiack-icf — Antarctic ici' — A j.'ale — Discoloura-
tion of sea -Inaccuracy of charts — Sioht ' Discovery '- Drtnlirc
on Toi'skf Imiik — Uross Arctic circle — (Jrcoidand Mcr-tlt-Glace
CllAPTErv II.
C(U-dia] reception hy the inspector — Ap]toarance of the land — \ isit
toOvifak — Temperature of Disco Hay — Icebergs — ]']ider ducks
— Crowded state of Arctic ships — liitenbenk — VN'aijrat Channel
— liMst si^jrht of llie ' \'alorous ' — Proven — I'pernivik — Leave
Hitonbonk — Fasteiiiu;.' to an iceber;.' — Scenery of coiust —
(Jeolo^ncal fornuition — Hans Ileindrich — Sanderson's Hope —
Upernivik— Danish olliciuls
V«
CHAPTER in.
lionve I Upernivik — Intricate navigation — 'Alert' afrround — The
'Middle Ice'— Melville Ray— Cape York and the ' Xorth
Water'— Natives of Cajte York — Beverley Clill's— Cary Islands
— Nortbuinberhind and Ilakhivt Islands — Cape Alexander
"a2
;u
^i
XX
roNTl'.NTS,
CHAPTKi; IV
I'AdlC
TlartstPiip Fmy— liifr-lxmt ( 'ovo— * roliiris ' winter (iimifora—
I.ittlftnti Isliiiul -Mtiili— Ciipt' Isnlit'llii— rnviT Harliiiiir (\\w
rSahiiif—l laves Siiiniil — Aloxiimlm lliiveii— Twin Ci lacier Niilli'V
— Kskiuio nii^'ratiou ^><^
riiAPTKi; V.
He-enter Sniiili Smiul— (.•aii;.'lit in the i>acli — llscaiw— Ciipo
N'ictoria — l-'ranklin I'ierce liay Walrus- N'nrnian Ldckycr
Island — ("a])e llawKs — WasliinLMon Irviiijr Island — JKililiin May
— Ditir-sii'Kuess — IVrildUs position of n\ny» — Koundinj: Cape
Frazer
7:1
ClIAlMKi: \T.
Cape John Tiarrnw — Cape Collinson — Opon water— Cape Constitu-
tion — IJessels llav — Itiscovery llarlioiir — ^fnsk-iixen - Sliips
part conipanv — Cape ]{iu'cliey — In tlie jmck — I'eriloiis position
— I -cape — Cape I'nioii ........
08
ClIAlTKl! Vn.
Cape Josppli Tlenry — Tlall'.s observations — Shut in by the pack —
liawson and Aldrioli start — Markliam leaves ship — "N'o land to
the nortli — Aldrich returns — l'"ui-i(ius jrale -Markhani's return
— .\ttenipt to leave I'IooIht).' IJeach — .'Vocident to screw —
Frozen in — Departure of autuum sh'd^'e parties
].",0
CHAPTKH Vni.
Rftw,son'.s second start— Aldrich's return — Ills jonrnev to Cape
Joseph Henry — llt;avy snow-fall — Conditio!' of the ice — Ilawson
returns — Failure to coumiunicate with ' Dis«'overy ' — Markluuu's
return — Frost-bites — Ilesidts of autumn sled^iufr
ir,.']
chaptkt; IX.
Preparations for winter — Dofr-sickness — 8now-liouses — Ventilation
of Arctic ships — Arctic clothinii- — Astnuioniical Observations —
Fire-hole— Aurora — Tlie moon — The 'Ladies' Mile'- IJoval
Arctic Theatre — Paraselena— Arctic darknes.s — Ilifrh tempera-
ture — Christmas — End of the vear
174
CONTI'NTS.
CirAPTKII X.
Tidal ifn-istfi> — Itftuniiiiir ixNiliji-lit SiiDW-tlonr— Stius in tlio
Milky Way MiTciiry rm/oii— ('oiilnictinii nl'calilt'^ llialtli of
tlu' {■,'.\|ii-ilitii)ii - .Mii-^ky tlavniir nt" iiifat- Alisfiiff of jilaiiol.s —
A Iciiiiiiiiij.' caiiiiirt'il l>(in--sii'il;rii)ir - 'l"(.iii|i,.nitiiro of tlie f^ea
— liftiini of tiic Mill -- Ifeiiiks rai.-ed liy ice-pi'O'^.siii'c — Vy<rt'tation
at tilt" Pole
cHAi'i'i:!; xi.
(it'oirrajiliical dismvprics — Ah.st'iico of land to the nortii — Dccido
on tlirt't! lines of fxptoratinii — Hoats for iiorthi'rn jnirty — Adopt
tilt' iiliin of Sir Ivlward I'arvy — Scurvy — Dietaries of slodi.>-t)
crews — Kp-rton letive> lor Discovory liay— I't'tcrsen's illness —
Dog sled jrin^' — Sprinijr visitants- — Wolves and musk-oxen .
XXI
I'Adi:
L'l;
or,-)
f
•'S'j
CIIAITKK Xir.
Departure of t lie slwlfrc parties — News from tl;e 'Discovery' —
Account of I'irertou's journey — Tiip to (Jreeiiland — Dr. Moss
and Mr. White n'tiirn — Arrival of sledges from the 'Discovery'
■ — Archer visits INdaris Hay— Cajitain Stephenson's arrival —
(iilfard's return -His party attacked by scurvy -Mgerton and
I'Vildrii return— Excursion to Capo Josei)h Henry — Mount
Julia— Ueturn to the 'Alert'
cirAPTpni XI 1 1.
Increase of scurvy— ('onxhiare anives from Discovery Bay — Pro-
ceedings of parties from ' JJiscovery ' — Lady Franklin Sound —
]5oats taken to ( creenland - I'olaris Pay — I'aptain Hall's grave
■ — His last record — Chronometer — N'ilalily of wheat — Cop-
pinger's journey
CHAPTER XIV.
Lieutenant Parr arrives on board ' Alert' — I)ist^es^ing condition of
northern division of sledges- IJelief party start — Death of
(ieorge Porter Markham's journey 344
;];U
LIST OF ]LLLSTiiATl(3NS
IK
TIJE FIUtST VOLUMJ'
I'lioTOciiiArns.
ri.oETiKWi BK.\nr— Pi'Hix(i .
ST(ti'i'i;i> iiv Tin: Id; nir ('apt; ritrscon
Flokiikho AM) i-iiEssi:i)-i r III iiini; ui;
Frotifi'spi'rri'
'/'■' fdcc pci/f ^4
FULL.PAriE iLLVSTUATliiN.
Ni;\vi.\-FnnMi;i) l''i.iii:iiKi<(is (I'XdM a ruuiuciKAru)
WOODVrTS.
(ioniiAAi! Disriucr . • • • " •
(Juori* OK AliniC IIUiUI.ANDEUH ....
Bkvehi.ky Cmfks, 'CiiiMsox Cnri's" ok Siu .Iuhn Koss
NoKTii-wiisT Point, XoimirM»KHi,AXi» Isj.axd .
lUciiANAN Strait, IIayks Sound . . »
Twix Glacier, UrciiANAX Sound
Amateuu T)oG-D1UVEK8 . .
Cape Hawks . . ■ • •
12
m
4:3
m
05
G8
83
87
\ .\ I v
LIST MF 11,1,1 STI!.\TI(>\..
<"'\i"i: .lnii\ Hv
I:i;mu
(' \v\: 1 UN
>ri 11 I i(i\
lli:u> i>r Mi^K fi>
vMi:i. Suns I^N„i; Cv,.,. .Fusuni |||.;
I
xuv
J''»i.->l.i:iM,i:
I'ltozns Cii
Tin; I,
I'aI!\si;i,i;\\
M
i\im;v
\i'ii;s' .Mii.i;
I-
"I NT IIm.i .\,
iiiizi:n |!i:m;i, .
Kill (iiAsr di' (l|;i;i;.M..vM
■I.i;iM,i; lo\vi;iii;ii n\ i;i; |j|
MM'M K
iln.l'IMi n(iii-si,i:ii,,i;
I'"<-H.i:iM,i: l»i;i\i.N,i ,,\i,i. I|
1*1 VMm.m, J), ^|. _
!"i\*V \ ll(\|M,,i
' M.Mii) h?
<'\i'i: I
.AWS iV S.\,iU M
ni'l:
"i:\\ i; (,!■ ( '\i.
I \ I N III
I.I.
I'*lll.-
!>!•
KM
Kir
II.:
I:: I
iri»
l!»l
liOH
'Jf<7
-".»4
.'KK)
.'{(Ml
•.im
.V.I/'
Smith Simn!). ;(i;\
m;:'Y i.\i. I
»|ilii;.su.\ Cll v.wi;!,;
■/•- /•.
/>"!/!■
INTEOI^UCTION.
It Ii;i> ;)('i'ii lV('(|i[i'iilIy said tliat Arctic discovery is
the IicritaL""*' of (Uir nation ; it was iHTjiK-atlicd sonie
three ci'iitiines since l)v
Di
l\ l^
lllld."
on,
1
)alhn, aiK
I
other illustrious seamen whose names and deeds will
ever retain an honoui'ed placi' in their countrv's
hi>torv
it
was not. howi'\cr
un
til
earlv m
tl
i(j
j)resent centuiy that the K'uacy was act'epted by the
Government. Tiie termination of a long war was not
deemed an unfitting time to renew the eiicouragemont
of that spirit of enter|)rise and a<lventure which had
been tiansmitted from the earliest maiitime period,
and had ever l)een a characteristic i>f the seafaring
[irofession.
It is iloubtful, however, whether that long series of
brillituit achievements in the frozen North which called
forth so much daiing, so iiiucli fortitude, so much
endurance, would have adorned the annals of the
Uritisii Navy but for the untiring energy and perse-
verance of one man — liimself an ardent admirer of
the deeds and sufferings of tho^e ancient Arctic icorthics
which Ills |)en has so ably elironicled; it need scarcely
be said that this individual was the late Sir John
Jjunow, whose sinoidar determiuation of character,
XXVI
IXl'l.'olU'CTinX.
m
coupled \vi;ii tin' iulliu'iitial portion lie ('cciipii'd in the
iitival :i(iiniiiisti-i\tion n[' tlu' (•(.iiiili-y. ciiahlrd liiiii to
c-arrv >»ut liis favoiiritr ciifcrjirisi'. tlu' rciirwal of Arctic
discovery. Hence hclwrcii the y<'ars 1S17 011(11845
an almost unhroken scries of t'lli)rts were inidc l)y this
countiT to penetrate the fVozcii ivLrions wit inn the
Arctic Of Antarctic ciiclf-. Coiiiu'cted with these
atteinpt-^ the names of Tari'V. l-Vanklin. and Kichard-
son. Back. Jolin and Janic- lc>s->, licechey and others
scarcely less eminent, have become famous : and a bund
of ollicers and seamen have l»een trained and educated
in a school, the stern necessities of which have been
instrumental in formiiiLr and fosterinLi those qualities
of foilitude and hai)its (jf self-reliance and self-denial
which are certain to tell with ellect at some ])erio(l or
other of a seaman's career, and which no maritime
nation can atlord to hold TiLditly.
To enter into the bi'iefe>t relation of ilie earlier
expeditions of tjic present ceiilurv would be to rejx'at
what \\i\^ ah-eatiy been li'equeiilly -aid : nor i- it neces-
sary, turther llian to ri'inark that, with the exception of
l'arry"s attem])t to reach ihe Pole in IS'iT. and James
Eoss's exi)e(hiion to the Antareiic rcLnons in 1840 and
followiiiLi" year:-, chiellv in the intei'e^ts of tlie sciem-e
of terrestrial magnetism, they may nearly all be said to
lia\e centred in tin* solution ol" the all-absoibiinj problem
— the discovery of a North-we-t i)assaL'e.
4'iie last of these exj)editions was the ill-fated one
under Franklin, wliieh left these shores in the month
of May KS4.') never to return. -lust thirty years had
ela{)sed wlu^n in the same month in 1 87') Polar reseurch
was restmied by tiie desj)atch <if the ' Alei't " and
VDiscovery ' on the voyage which is narrated in the
followinij- paues by its distiiiLniished commander.
JNTllUDUCTloX.
XXVll
TIk' ('X|)L'(litiou iiii(l(M" Fruiikliu was in ri^ality the
last which was sent forth by tliis fount ry in the [jursuit
.M Arctic (Hscovcry. 'I'iiosc which subsctiuently fol-
lowed, seven in number and consisting of no less than
twenty-four vi-ssels, twenty of which were equipped
by the Gowrnnient, and which by ship juid sledge
traversed the Arctic seas tor over ten years, were sent
exchisively in search of the ' Erebus " and ' Terror,' and
ihi'ir geographical discoveries were purely incidental
to that search.
Notwithstanding all that has been written con-
cerning this unfortunate expedition, it has so du'cct u
bearing on the one which has latt'Iy I'uturned from an
attempt tt) r(>ach the Polo, that it is imperative bi'ieliy
to recall its main features, and to follow for a time the
footste[)s of those who so long and so unsuccessfully
persevered in tluir atlemi)ts to lit"t the veil which
shrouded all connected with it in the deepest mystery.
FraidKlin and his com])anions, like many who pre-
ceded them, went forth to ai;c()mj)lish the North-west
passage, that is to sail noith-wcst from the Atlantic
to the Pacific Ocean ; and wilh the knowh-dge — or
perhaps it would \)r moivcorre-'t to>ay the ignorance —
wliicli then existed a>^ to tiie diiliculties by whicli the
ta>k was surrounded, thei'e seemed a i'.ir |)robal)ility
that their mission would have been successhd. At any
rate thei'e were none who doubted that tin; way they
would go would be open to their sate return. They
had two stout ships, the best ever desi)atched on such
service. These vessels were furnished with steam
powei", though to a limited extent, and their personnel
com[)iised the flower of the naval service.
It is |)robal)le thtit few, if any, at thisthue believed
that practical results useful to navigation or conunerce
XXVIII
INTKODlCi'IOX.
would ui-erue wcw the passmo ncroiiiplislu'd : still
problems of scientilie interest, wliicli were K'ss under-
stood then tlinn now, would lie solved, and success
could not but redound to the national lu)nour und
renown.
Lookinii back with our present knowledu'e it may
well seem unaccountable that the idea of snecour
beconiiiiijf necessary never eiUered into the minds ot
Franklin, or the most experienced ot' iiis coiUenqioraries,
and that no sine-l(> pivcaution for ri-lief was ever con-
templated before the expedition sailed. \\'e now,
indeed, know thai it" it had bec'ii arrannt'il that in the
simnner of 1S47 an ixpedition should j)r(M'eed 'O sonu>
appointed rende/xous in l)ai']'ow t'^ti'ait. thei'e to remain
until the autumn of ISIS, it is certain that most if not
all the survivinu' crew would have been rescued ; we
know this now because we know where the >hips were
abandoned, and that tlu' spot was within I'each of such
>uccour ; but had they penelrnlinl a hundred miles
further westward it would have taken ihem out of >uch
reach ; all attempts however at re-i-ue, at whatever
time undertaken, would have lu'eu in \ain. uiile>s pre-
arranged with Franklin. This is the fatal mistake
Nvhicli experience has taught u>. and which can never
be repeated ; but had it been rc>co!jiii>ed as a neet'ssity
to send a second expedition one or two xcars after the
de|)ai'tinc of the (irsl. to secanx' its sah'lv, would the
"Erebus" and 'Terror," it )nay be aske(l. haxc s;dle(l at
all? Would not the (jue^lion ha\e arisen. ' Ls expe(li-
;ion to Ibllow expedition while a -diip remains abseii! r '
and there could jirobably have been but one reply.
Much has been written by theorists, after the event, to
prove tliat the long and fruitless search was madi' in
the wi-ouL"" direction, and that wiuTe Franklin was
orl
is
ti(|
si J
a>
U'M
\\\
ti
oj
c
1NTK()J)UCTI0X.
XXIX
oi'diTi'd to <jfo, tlitTc he sliould liavc been sought. This
is specious onouL'h, l)ut wliat arc tlic facts? Instruc-
tious to the k'aders of such exju'ditious can be con-
sidered oidy as advice to be followed under certain
assumed ci)ndil ions ; but in ihe uiicertaintit's of Arctic
navigation, circunislances are almost certain to occur
\\
lii.-h
1 may render U unpossihJe to ;ict upon Uistruc-
tiou.>
io\ve\'er nblv concei\('(
L ]•
rauKlni was u
ideed
orderi'd to go to (he south-west in the dirt'ction of
Cape Walker, bul none knew what was bevond that
cape. If bullied there he was to try the Wellington
Channel, onlv sixtv mik's to the I'astwai'd. which
had b
by r
)een seen and pronounced a ])romisnig chanm
1
d
irrv
uid wincli iH'Uig nearer tlie open sea is
])robably always free from ice belbre \\\v more shel-
tered inlets to the westwai'd. In all j)rol)ability the
south-west was tried and found closed ; it is certahi, as
Ave know now, that lie did ascend the Wellington
Channel to 77° X., and liu<liiig the outlet westward
sealed, returned, winten'd at Ik'echey Island, and later
on in the vear 1840 succcedt'd in penetrating to the
S.W. bi'yond Cape Walker ; l)Ut a ship's keel leaves
no track behind, and no scrap of papir was ever found,
or probablv ever left, to indicate the course taken by
the ^ Eivbus ' and 'Terror," until the fatal oui' dis-
covered by M'Clintocks parties on King William's
Land, which recorded the abandonmeiU of the ships
and thus rexealed llu' sad story that all mu>t pnibablv
a\(' i)erished ten yeai
before
The onlv clue ever found by the searching ships
[)revious to this — the three graves on Beechey Island at
tlu^ entrance to Wellinufton Channel — a siLrnilicant clue
indec'd — probably led those who followed, in a direction
at once in the track of the lostexi)edition, and at the same
I
^'
I
xx>:
iNTKODrrriox.
li.
time lioju'lossly Mstrny. }i(' lliis ;is it may, it must 1h»
coniosscd, and porliaps with liumiliation, tliat the imitcd
wisdom and jndji'nu'ni of llu' mo>t cxpt'ricncod Arctic*
iinvicators, and the cncrii'v and ixT-ii'vcrain'c of the most
r* V.I
able h'aders, witc ahkc at I'aull, so that il was left for
the sohiarv htllc 'Fox.' equi])|H'(l hy I.ady Franklin
and her friends, and eonmianded hy .M'C'lintoek, to
solve the mystery, whirh had previously halllcd so
inanv able eommandci^ (himself anionLi' llic number),
with UH'ans and resources unlimited. His success,
however, comph'te as it was. detracis in no way fi'om
the credit of i!iose who weni bet'ore. Workinji" in the
dark, st» to s ly, the}' did all thai undaunted perseve-
rance and devotion could aceompli>li, in the face of
didiculties and liardships which have rarely been
equalled,
IkU to reliu'ii from a diLM'es-ion which t(^ some
may scarcely seem relevant, 'i'lie special inlluence
exercised on the renewal of Arctic discoxcrv bv tlie
lost expedition and those which followed in its search
was twofold. Till' sliock which the nation sustained in
the traiiic fate of the Ibriui'r, and the disappointment
experienced by the entire failure of the latter, after
ten Weary years of I'llort and an enormous exj)endi-
ture of money, may In- »aid to lia\i' sealed the North-
west passaL^e indelinitely. and thus narrowed the
fields of discovery to the one other point of interest
the Pole. Aiiain, the search for the inis>in;j; ships
involveil the minute examination (tf a vast extent of
coast-line, wliicli neither ■^hip nor boat eould appi'oach,
and this task could only be accomplished bv the
mamud labour of di'aguing heavily laden sled<^es aiom'
the marLdn of the fro/en sea for weeks or months to-
gether. The art of sli'(li:e-travellin«.': in this maimer
\\1
o|
tl
I
INTIJOPUCTIOX.
XXXI
was initiatLHl, and pcrliaps l)roiiglit to tlio higliost state
of piTfectioii it is susceptible of, during tlie jn'ogressof
tliis lontr scarcli. As nuieli as four luuidred miles in
a direct lin(^ on an outward journe}' had been acconi-
l)lish('(I bv these means, each mail drairirini; between
two and three Innidred j)()unds, including his j)ro-
visi(ms, clothing, and erpiij)ment, and being absent
from the ii'o/.eii-iii shij)s frequently from ninety to a
hundred days. It was manifest, then, that if such
distances could be accoinj)lislu'd in search of men in
distress, they ciuild bi' eriually well pcrfornu'd in the
pursuit of geographical discovery, and no stronger
ar<»ument than this could have been used in lu-ounji;
upon the Government the expediency of further ex-
j)lorations. The effort, however, was a long and uphill
one, and after the abandonment of the Franklin
search, Arctic dis(;overv, so far as this country was
concerned, slumbi'red for over twi'Uty years.
Yet its advocates never losi lieart. They caimot
be said to have been numerous, but they were enthu-
siastic and inlluential ; and perhaps there is no more
striking instance of perseverance on record than that
wit] I which, year after year, successive presidents of
the lioval Geoizraphical iSocietv forced their favourit^e
project on the notice of that po|)ular assembly, until
it ])ecame almost a point of national honour tluit it
should be carried out. It would be incorrect to say
that Arctic enterprise had been strictly a popular
sentiment since the loss of the Fi'anklin Expediticii ;
indeed, in many respects it was the reverse. The
])ublic press, with few exceptions, gave no counten-
ance to it : the leadiuLT journals were either avowedly
oj)posed or kept silence; science held aloof, and was
converted almost against its will ; the naval service
\
XNXU
INTUODl'CTIOX.
i
' 1
generally could scaroely view it uiili i'avoiir, for the
reason that comparatively hut a very ineoiii^iderable
nunihei'ot" iis members could hope to sliai'e in so small
an enterprise, while the honoui-s and rewards wdiieh in
consequence lell to the lot of the t"a\dUivd lew who
could, iiidii-ectly tended to check the oi'dinaiT How of
])foniolion ill a >er\icc where ad\anccmcnt is proverbi-
ally not Ico rapid. Yet. aij-ainsl all tlie>(> and other
obstacles, a tew enthusiastic men. principally those
who had been cuLiaiied in tonncr voya<j;es, cordially
aided by — or pi'i'liaps. more cori'cctly sj)eaking. aitling —
ardent and intiiiential sj:eoL''ra|)hers such as Murchisoii
and Kawlin>on. succeeded in carrynig their point. It
is probable. howe\ei'. that without pressure of another
character, success miLiht have been lonji" delayed.
ihu'inL;' our protiacted inacti\iiy other nations had not
been idle. The I'nilv'd States of America, wdiich had
generously joined with us in the search tor Franklin,
made several bold and more or less successt'ul attemjits
to reach a high noilhern latitude, and Hall in this
respect had all i)ut won the palm irom Tai-ry. I'eter-
matm, the eminent German geographer, had been as
warm and earnest an atlvocate of Polar research as
stane of our own men of science, and had roused the
enthusiasm of his countrymen, who with Sweden and
Austria also entered the field ; and if, with theii' limited
means, they did not achieve great discoveries, they
proved that they were not le>s enterj)rising or less
endowed with those gifts of perseverance ar.d endur-
ance than our own countrymen. Certainly, from a
scientific point of view, th(?y did not accomplish less ;
but what was, perhaps, more convincing still, they
encountered greater perils and underwent more severe
hardships than any ex})edition from our sliores, pro-
■' 1
INTRODUCTION.
XXXI 11
l)al)ly boL'MUsc llu'ir menus and resources were less
Minple, and yet tliey all i-etunied without any latal
disaster.
This alone was a iJONvt-rful argument, and went I'ar
to obliterate the deej) impression produced by the
disastrous termination to the voyage of Franklin. It
was shown that the ' Erebus ' and ' Terror ' went into
tlie unknown and the illimitable, without iiny mis-
giving as to their return, and therefore without any
attem])t at provision for their succour. Indeed it was
now ap])arent that no |)ossible human ])recautions
could have rendered their safety certain, and it was
])roved, beyond reasonab' doubt, that an ex[)editioii
towards the Pole could be so circumsciibed in its area
of discovery, and its succour so certainly provided for,
that the risk was reduced to a mininunn. In short,
the public mind was now ripe, and tlie time had come
at last when this countiy was to resume her tbremost
place, and put forth her whole strength in the renewal
of Arctic discovi'ry.
This decision having been come to, the only diffi-
culty which ]iresented itsi'lf was where to find a
commander, for experience in similar service was,
above all, ;i necessity in the leader of such an euter-
|)rise. A generation had done its work on those who
had conducted or lu'ld responsil)le ])osts in former
voyages, and it was not deemed ci/iivenient to send a
flag officer into the Arctic regions, or the selection
would have been less limited. After mature consider-
ation it was decided to recall Captain Nares from the
cominand of the Scientific FAjunlition then being
ci'.rried out in H.M.S. ' Challenger,' and to appohitlnm
to the chief command. The loss to that expedition,
VOL. 1. b
XXXI V
INTIJODrCTION.
,, ,1
1
"«
M
1
]|:!i
||:!!
howt'vrr ;i!)ly liis pl.-iiv was lilK'd, could not liavo
\)vvu olluTwisc than ureal, but C^ij)taiii Nares had
o-aiucnl cri'clil as a vcrv youni; oliici'i' in the last of tlio
Governnu'iit scarcliiiiij" voyMLTcs. and iIk' sclcctiDH of a
leader Avitli expcrieuce was very |)ro[)erly rrj^'urdetl as
ihe paramount ohjeet.
The general ])lan of ()j)erations liad been virtually
loMu' decided bv consent ol" all ••onipeteiit authorities.
The ih'st objett was, it' possible, to reach the Pole.
Manv other subordinate and collateral objects there
(h)nl)tless Avere. both of a <jreouTa])hical and a puri'ly
scientific kind, but the main object was the attainment
(if the hiirhest possible northern latitude. The subji'ct
had been exhaust ivelv discussed bv the lioval (leo-
graphical Society i'or years, Dillerences of opinion
amonu the best informed undoubti'dlv existed. The
])hysical conformation oi'the land around the regions of
the polar circle almost forbade the hope of anv nearer
approach to the Pole by ships tiian had already ])ceu
attained, unless indeed by the opening between Green-
laiul and Nova Zembla, which to some oU'ered a promise
of success. ,
The latter-day theory of an open Polar Sea rested,
however, on nn ibundation. ])ractical or philosophical.
Even if k could have been shown that a soniewliat
higlier mean temperature was theoretically due in that
area where the sun is for nearly six consecutive
months above the horizon, and for a similar ])eriod
below it, it would avail nothinL'; for the dissolu-
lon
f the winter's ice is not dependent on the
inlluence of the summer's heat alone, otherwise the
diinculties of Arctic navigation would disai)pear, at
any I'ate foi" some short period during every season.
A variety of other ehanents are equally important.
If
INTIIODL'CTIOX.
XXXV
Cliicf ;nnoii!i tlicni is ilie iidioii of llic winds and
tides to \)\'v:\k up the (l('('ayiii«^f llocs, but parainoiiiil
nl)()vo all others is the necessity for siilliciciil outlets
for the es('a|)e «>(" the ice so hiokcii up thi'ouirliout the
vjistarea uf the I'ular basin. These outlets we knowdo
not exist; iin insiLjnilieant |)oiiit of laud, nioreoxcr, will
act us a ^ved<ie, or the ju'evaleiice of an unfavourable
Avind for a few days at the eritieal peiiod will suHlee to
decide the question whether such inlets so important
as Welliiiirton Channel or t^niith Bound will be closed
4
or open (lurin<»' a season. From a ship's mast-head
or a mountain-summit the visible hori/on is limited
by the curvature of the earth, an<l those who have
navi«(ated in these reirions Avill well remember how
one short hour has carried them from an api)aienny
open sea to a dead-lock with no streak of water in sight.
Water-skies are dehisive ; an insiLniilicant crack or lane
in tl
le ice wii
di
)ro(nice
tl
lem, and
tl
le on
Iv ad
niissioie
bl(
evidence of a Polynia or naviaable Polar basin must
be the fict that a ship has sailed through it.
The probability of the existence of a navigable
Polar Seji was therefore never entertained by those
whose duty it became to consiiler and advise on the
subject of renewed explorations ; but there did appear
Strom: reasons for l)elievinLr tiiat a hinh northern
latitude, or even the Pole itself, might be reached by
sle(h
•nig parties.
The Anu'ricans nnder n.<]l had
wintei'ed in (Sl° 38' N. or within r>(l() miles of the
Pole, and their reports went far to induce the belief
that the land treniled still away to the north, and so to
ss in this direction. It
mces that Smith Sound,
strengthen the hope of succc
was under these circum
which had alwavs seemed
the route of greatest
promise, was finally and mianimously decided upon.
I
J.
»■
;J1
XX W I
INTIIUDLI'TION.
and by t^mitli Sound lli(> 'Alcit ' and 'Discovery' were
ordcivd to inakc I lair way. 'I'lu'V sailed under the
bri-'hlest auspices, and with tlic nation's earnest
wishes and sauLTuine hopes lor their >ueees>.
It is not my |)lace to anticipate the narrativi' of
that memorable expedition. All went well until the
day when Captain Nares placed his ship on the opi-n
shore of tlie Polar Sea in the latitude of S"2° 27', when
the picture darkened, and to his experienced eye at
least, it must have been apparent that so tar as the
lirst jireat object of the Expedition wa- concerned, all
hope of success was at an end. From the hi^diest
eminence attainable no hind was visible to the nt)i'th,
NothiiiLf nu-l the eye but a dreary waste of frozen
ocean, the rui2;L''edness of which detied all human
efl()rts to penetrate it by ^hip <a- sledire. Where tlie
land trended east and west, llii're aK)ne with any hope
lay tla' path of the explorers will) the return of the
sun in the coming spring.
jMuch stress has naturally been laid on the superior
equipment of this Kx|)edition, and on the great advan-
tages it ])ossessed over previous ones in being j)rovidetl
with full steam-power; but when we come to analyse
these advantages they are more api)arent than real.
Doubtless no ships could have been more elliciently
equip])ed or belter |)r()visioned, yet in this respect
there could scarcely have been any apju'ecaable
difl'erence between them and the numerous expeditions
which had bet'u employed ])reviously in the search for
Franklin. In all their arrangements the (Tovernment
were actuated by the uuv principle — efhciency and
comfort — regardless of expense. Yet we lind the
travelling parties of the [)resent Ex])8dition attacked by
malignant scurvy, which almo.st prostrated them after
INI IIOIUCTION.
.NXXVll
oiR! winter in the ice, tlioiinli Impiiil} the iiinrtalily
exceeded that of no (ni'incr ex|»edili(>ii. It* we turn to
the ii'cords of the condiiion ol" the crews of CoHin?on
and M'( 'hire's sliips al'tci' thi'ee and four winteis passed
in !i much h)\ver latitnih', we find an abseuee of any
severe cases of fhi' same (hsease, and so in otlier
voyages of slioiler (hnation; hut Ashi-re the exposure
and labour of the travelhiig parties was excessive, we
find a still more marked exemption ; while, on the other
hand, we learn from the recovered records of Franklin's
fatal expedition, which wintered more than 700 miles
to the south, and whose crews wei'i' iu»t subject to tlie
labour of sledginu" until they linally (juitted their ships,
that before three years had elapsed no less than
twenty-four deaths had occuried (nine among them
being oilicers), whether by scurvy or not none can say.
These are signilicant facts, the causes of wliich have
hit hello been past man's finding out.
As ri'gards steam-power, its advantages, up to a
certain point, cannot be overrated. Formerly shijjs
were compelled to hold on where thev could by the
fixt'd land ice, sometimes for weeks, and where they
could not, were drifted to the south, helpless in the
moving pack. With steam-power, where a shi}) can
find suflicieiit room to move in an ice-encumbered sea,
she can force her way ; hence a distance which in the
days of sailing shij)s re({uired soiiu; six or eight weeks
to accomplish has been made good with steam in lialf
the number of days, and the harassing labour of
wai'iang with hawsers and cutting into dock for con-
tinuous days and nii^hts has been entirely si^ared.
This is much ; but here the adviinta^e ends. When
this partial navigation ceases and the solid Hoe is
reached, however inconsiderable its thickness, steam is
•- <
xxxvui
INTi;<M)l ('HON.
iii'
V'.
t)f no iiH.ivtivail l<. iKMR-lratc it lliaii it would lu- to
j)r(»]H>l II slii]) thnuij^'li llu' c\i\s\ oC \\\v earth.
Hut if the main objrct of tlif cxplofcrs was Jit»t
attaiiu'il, it caiiiiol Ix' said lliat tiny wire less suciht-
fill tliau any «>l' tiifir jindtrcssdiN. Tlic hold and
skilful scaniaiisliip which caiTicKJ the ships to the
extn'UK' limit ol' iiaviLMtioii, and placcil tin' • AK rt '
aloiii' in a position in which no ship bcldrc had ever
])asscd an Arctic winter, was woiihy of the leader,
and an earnt'st of what wcaild have heeii acc(>nii>lished
had it heen in man's power to eoniniand success. The
bub.so([iient deeds of the oliicers and crews, under cir-
cumstances of trial tinil suilerinji which have I'arely
been equalled, can never be suipassed.
If, indeed, tlu' full accomplishment of tlie objects
sought in such vovau'es as these were to be taki'ii as
the test of success, then shouhl we look in vain for
success in the annals of Arctic history. The discovi-ry
of a water passjiLfe between the two oceans alonir the
coast of America was the result of the most jH'r-
severing though unsuccessful ellbrts of oliicers of the
Hudson's liay Company ar.d the Koyal Navy, from the
time when Hearne and .M'Kenzie ti'aced the two great
Arctic liveis to the shon's of th" bo/en ocean, until the
last link in the chain of this 'liv ovcry was furnished
by Franklin in tlu' very hop.!', so lo speak, when he
gave u[) his life in the cause. Pai'ry, who was perhaps
the most successful of all Arctic voyagers, never passed
Avest of Mehille Island from the Atlantic, and the
intrenid M'Clure, thousih thirtv vears later he reached
the winter quarters of the ' liecla ' and 'Grij)er ' from
the Pacific with a sledge crew and dei)()sited his record
by the side of his great ])redecessor's under the same
stone, yet 70 uiiles of lixed i(;e intervened between the
INTItODlJCTlOX.
XXXIX
' Tiivc'slii^alor ' in Mercy H;iy, of Hiiiik's Liind, iind
I'arry's rartlicsl on Melville Isjiind. Though tlio
Ni)rtli-\vvsl passiiL"' may l)e >ai(l lo liave been jieconi-
piislied jointly by these two distiniinislied seamen, in
this hiirh hititnde, as the |)assa;ie t'nrlhei- sonth was
completed by Fruiiklin live years eafliei-, no ship has
ever yet passed IVom ocean to ocejin. The subsequent,
expeditions in search of Fi'anklin weri' not a!>le to
reach so tar west iis I'arry did tVom the Atlantic, nntil
ii. division of Sir Kdward Helcher's s(pia(lron under
KeUett did so in 1852, while Jk'lcher with his own
ships ])enetrati'd no further than tlie hejid of Wellinii;-
lon Chaiuu'l, which we now know Franklin himself
did with the ' iM'ebus ' and ' Terror' in 1 S 45. lint for
dl th
dd
all this U would l)e uuLjenerous as well as unjust to
])ronounce these enterpi'ises failures. Perfect success
has uever been achieved in these instances, simply
b
)ectius(! It IS not in the ])ower ol man to cope witii the
forces of natuie in those stern inhospital)le regions.
To say that the accomplishnu'iit of the Xorth-west
passage will \u'\\'v be realised, oi' that tlie attempt to
reach the North Pole will never be reiu'wed, would be
a bold prophecy, lioth art' objects worthy of the
national enterprise of a maritime people, and it would
be safer to j)redict that l)oth will be attemjited, and, it
may be, eventually accomplished. The former, like
the search for Franklin, was abandoned when but one
route remained untried, and that I'oute, east of King
William's Land, dearly bought experience would seem
to point out as the one which oilers the best ho])e of
success. The Pole must be .sought by ship alone, and
by th(.' only track which has not yet bei-n found im-
])ossil)le for steam to penetrate — by the 8t>a of Spits-
bergen.
i
xl
IXTKODrC'TION.
Ijii i^
tl
Doubtless no Arctic cxpoditioii c:ni owr depart
without a full cquipuuMU of slodjfcs, nuy more than an
liiKirv ship can sail on a voyaL^' witliout her pro])er
)lenienl of boats, for the reason that sled^n-s are the
ore
com]
only means of locomotion in these regions ; but whether
it is |ustifi:il)le to equip another essentially sledging
exju'dition uilh any lesser objects than these — that is,
to trace the barren outline of desolate coasts probably
wrappi'd m eternal ice, and never agam to oe
1
to b
VI SI
ted.
and this at the cost of so much suflering ;in<l so much
treasure — is more ([uestionable. Let the nation di'cide.
Geograi)hv has little to gain l)y it, srii-uce perhaps h'ss,
for whatever science has ii.anec
1 by
sucii vovaixes —
and the gain has been considerable — has b(,'en by ex-
ploration in the neighbourhood of the ships' wintt'r-
quarters. and not through the efforts i>f extended
travelling parties, who have neilhei- the time nor the
'J'here are wide fields f
or
means to devoti; to it.
<reo""r;n)hical and scientific research in other reufions,
bv which the wliole human raee would be ifainei's ; and
tiiouLdi Ens^land. as she is bound lo do, does more than
any other nation in such work, she is wvy far in these
respects from fulfilling her mis-ion. Hundreds of her
national ships ])lough the ocean in time o{' peace, their
ahnost soh' occaipation the training and preparation for
war, and in the very nature of things, so far as scien-
tiiic research is conc(=]-ned, they leave no deeju'r mark
than the tr:ick \vhi( h the sea ol)literates behind them,
while the few — too few — grudgingly appropi'iated from
the largest iiiivy in \ho world place their inen'aeeal)le
stam[) on wo^k^ <j1' usi-fulness which last f(»r ever.
I ii
(IKOKOI; HkNUV b'iCllAltDS.
•'"■=•*; •^W?op«CTi--,
iLi^
L
■^^*i'
a. nmB.K ,utd ihe Oftlcns itT Rgy S^afestys Ships
V. UlSCOVlJTi' uv tiu, Brvtisiv Arctic Kxpoi^*'
S. m >*■;••
4
f
:9"'
I
.v'
J.--
1
'1
n^^
*h
\
r
fi
•^-
NAEEATIVE
OF
A VOYAGE TO THK POLAE SEA
DURING 187 5-76.
CIIArTEE I.
DErARTriJK li;(»M rOETSMOUTH — r.ANTRY V.\\ — ^ KA lilKDS I'AIU'
COMTAXY WITH ' VALOROl'S '— HP^AVY (!AI,ES — CARKIER I'lGEONS —
DEAlt WHALE — EAST CEEENr.AND DRIFT ICE — SKIHT ' VALOROIS '
— oEAI.S AND AVALKUS — DESCRII'TION' OK I'ACK ICE — ANTARCTIC
ICE — A (lALE DISCOLOURATION OF SEA INACCURACY OF CHARTS
— SIOHT ' DISCOVERY ' — DREDGE ON TORSKE DANK — CROSS ARCTIC
CIRCLE — OREENLANI' MER-DE-(;LACE.
At 4 P.M. of :\l;iy the 2l)tli, 1875. \\M. s}iij)s - Alrrt '
and 'Discovery' eaf^t ofl' from ilic dockyanl wliarf,
rortsnioutli, and proeecded to sea. Sliortly l)efore our
dei)artiirc I liad tlie lioiiour of receiviji^ tlic followiiiir
telegram, daled Halmoral, fi'om Her Most (Traeious
Majesty: 'I earnestly wish you and your iiallant
eoni]>anions eveiT success, and U'usi that you in;iv
safely accomplish the unportant duty you have so
Imively undertaken.' This special mark of interest
displayc'd by the (iueen towards the Expedition was
speedily communicated to the oflici-rs and crews of the
voi>. 1. [i
I-
Is.Lilli
^k
^■
ereat, MftT iie G-Zice
71° I.ongWiulr 7a°W.ofUT™widi 69°
doL-iiir.nir.y ■Ki-nijh'-d h\ l/' ct^t-m- of the Arahc- Rxpeditinn
Loniion .Sampson Low, Muf.ston , Seiti
ARCTIC SEA >H„iHw\Ri) KRf.M BAFFIN BAY
EHWEDT.,83 aOBlESDN CHANNELS
/>,„„ ./.,■,..■„•,.,■ „....ir ,, ,l,e Mueruan „n'-J>u.,„. under D^'Kane * Hayes 18,W-61, and m ih, T. S S T^larU:
uuUr .ommund ./ CM- H,ai . 1871-::. -.-'-r.W from r,u,r„pnbUshed tv th, PS. Bydro<rraphn- OfRr, . V? «'♦
•^\.\. LAND AWD GREENLAND
r,,„ , ^«.h ilie western shore
SorUr
■ I'" Kcmirclv ("hantipj and Smith Soitndi
..y I'HplHine CVS.NHroB.KK.S. and H.F. St^hmison, R N.
assii «w -^ H . Vlarkhiun H.N luid ihe- OfTicfrs ot' Jbr Myejtyi Shift
AU'.R'i s DISCUVKHV in the British Arctic Earpeditu'rv of 18VS-6.
Tht \olitlirrn nlbiU'i-r Iij Siitilh Smiiui /„ilh from t/ii okwrratinnJ u/' Capt«mB^.In^l«firfd,R.S. iVtZSi".
Fjpttres on 111,' ittttl shtn*- the /leitf/tti in teet ahavt ihr .tea
g. (//-rttW. la. rruid . V- riH'k' . fi. sartd. ah. jhflLv.
-Thf iinp'ieUt' VafiaitDits are (ipprtacinudjt anfy.
SOUNDINGS IN FATHOMS.
^M
<-^'
>vl
",tS
Sumfj.-iOii Low, Muiwtvii , Seiule i.Kivnui<or
VOYAUK TO THE POLAll SEA.
Juxi;
vessels under my command, and the great lionour con-
ferred by Iler Majesty was fully appreciated.
The interest taken l)y the country at large in the
Arctic Ex])e(lition culminated in the demonstrations
attending its departure. No one on board our two
ships can ever forget the farewell given to the discovery
vessels on that occasion. Closely packed midtitudes
occupied each pier and jetty on both sides of the har-
bour ; Southsea bea(;h as far as the castle was thronged
to the water's edge ; the troops in garrison p.aradcd
on the common, the men-of-war in port manned their
rigging and as we passed greeted us with deafening
cheers, whilst the air rang with the shouts of the si)ec-
tators on shore and on board the steamers, yachts, and
small craft which crowded the water.
On passing through Spithead, H.M.S. ' Valorous,'
Captain Loftus Francis Jones, joined company ; the fires
were banked and all sail made before a northerly wind,
several yachts accompanying the squadron. By 8 p.m.
we were south of the Needles, with only one friendly
yacht left, belonging to the Rev. Mr. Conybeare, who as
father of one of the officers of the 'Discovery,' natu-
rally gave us a lingering farewell. By midnight we were
abreast of the Portland Lights, the three ships ruiming
down Channel, luider sail, at the rate of six knots an hour.
The following day, on passing the Eddy stone. Ad-
miral the Hon. Sir Henry Keppel, Commander-in-chief
at Plymouth, visited the shi[)s. In the evening the
' Valorous ' parted company for Queenstown, to com-
plete her coal, and to bring on the latest letters
to Bantry Bay, where the ' Alert ' and ' Discovery '
arrived on June 1.
1875
THE A'n.ANTIC.
8
3rs
5
Leaving BcUiliy Bay the fallowing day, the 'Valor-
ous,' wliich liad h^ft Queenstown the previous al'ler-
iioou, joined company. After eonnnunicatuig with
lier, and receiving our forewell letters and telegrams,
siiil was made to a fair wind from off the land. The
ships running quickly to the westward were abreast
of the Bull, Cow und Calf Eocks by 4 p.m. Before
dark, owing to the mist, land was lost sight of astern,
and the Expedition was fairly started on its mission.
The first four days in the Atlantic were line, with
light nirs and cahns. Some kitti wakes (R/ssa tridadyla)
followed us thus far from land, and a few shearwaters
(PuJJinus' anglornm) were observed passing the ship.
After crossing the 54th parallel of north hititude, we
first met with the fulmar [Procellaria (jlacialis), ar.d
this bird accompanied us on our voyage until we
entered the ice of Smith Sound.
The Atlantic swell proved to be anything but in
agreement with the period of the heavily laden
'Alert.' Roiling as she did twenty and thirty degrees
each way, it was rather annoying than otherwise to
those on bonrd of her to observe tliat the ' Valorous '
and 'Discovery ' were com])nratively quiet; their time,
however, was to come. The ' Valorous,' although she
set every possible bit of canvas, and disconnected her
paddles from the engines to permit them to revolve,
could not keep n}) under sail alone with the ^''Lrctic ships ;
I accordhigly gave her permission to part company
and to rendezvous at Godhavn, in North Greenland,
early in July.
On the morning of the 9lh we experienced a fresh-
ening wind from the northward and rejoiced at last in
'f
VOYAGE TO THE TOLAll SEA.
June
a doublo-rcefed topsail breeze sufficiently strong to keep
the ships steady and prevent them from rolling to whid-
wtird. During the previous week I had been striving
to get to the northward, in the hope of experiencing the
easterly winds prevailing in about latitude 58° N., but
we were not fated to enjoy any of them.
Next day, the barometer having fallen previously,
the wind shifted to the north-westward and forced us
to stand to the southAvard ; it also increased con-
siderably, the seas breaking on board the deeply laden
vessels to such an extent that the hatchways were
obliged to be battened down. By the afternoon of the
12th, the gale had evidently blown itself out, and the
sea going down enabled the hatchways to be opened
and the mess deck dried up ; but as we were congratu-
lating ourselves on the prospect of finer weather the
barometer again commenced to fall and the wind to
freshen from the south-west.
For several hours the ships were run to the north-
ward in the hope of getting on the northern side of the
path c '' the vortex of the new gale ; but the wind quickly
increased and forced sail to be shortened, until there
was nothing set but a close-reefed main topsail and
lore-staysail ; the ' Discovery ' staggering (dong in her
endeavour to keep station with a reefed foresail in
addition. A great number of storm petrels (Procellaria
pelagica) followed in the wake of the ships, with
fulmars, and a few of the large shearwaters [Puffinus
major). In the early part of the night the barometer
fell very rapidly, and as it was evident that we were
nearing the centre of the cyclone the ' Alert ' was hove
to. At midnight the barometer registered 28*80, the
1875
HEAVY OAI.ES.
e
wind blowing furiously, and the ' Discovery ' out of
sight. Ex})ecting a change the ship was wore, but not
without a heavy sea breaking in over the stem, for-
tunately without damage. While lying-to on the star-
board tack the ship rolled very heavily, large quantities
of water coming in alternately over either gunwale ;
at last a sea broke into a whale-boat hanging at the
waist davits outside the ship ; the weight of the waicr
tearing out one of the bolts by wliicli she was secured ;
the boat was left suspended per})endic\darly by the
after fall alone, and by the time that slie was again
seemed had become so badly damaged as to be beyond
repair.
By the following morning the barometer had risen
slightly, but the heavy sea and strong gale continued
until late in the day. Sail was made as soon as the
violence of the wind permitted, in order if possible to
steady- the ship; but it ])roved a total failure, she con-
tinued to roll to windward in spite of all Ave coidd do
to ])revent it. The ' Discovery ' was nowhere in sight,
and as her boats were even more exposed th^\ those
of the ' Alert,' we were naturally somewliat anxiods as
to how siie had got through the gale. Many thoughts
were also directed towards the live sheep on board
of the ' Valorous,' and doubts Avere ex])ressed as to
whether their lives could have been saved.
On the 15th we experienced a calm, but owing to
the heavy sea the ship rolled Avorse than ever. There
was, lioAvever, one agreeable advantage in the Arctic^
ships, for owing to their very great solidity, the hicessant
creaking of each ladder and bulkhead usual in ordinary
ships Avas completely ])revented, and but for the constant
6
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
Junk
: I
I i
falling of chairs, books &c., wc should have enjoyed per-
fect silence. On the I81I1 a single storm jx^trel was seen
in lat. 57° 2C' N., the most northern point at Avhich this
sj)ecics was observed by lis. After three days of fairly
good weather the barometer again begnn to fall, and on
the 19th and 20th we had to ]mt up with onr third gale
from the westward in as many weeks. The hatchways
being necessarily battened down, it was very dark, wet,
and micomfortable below, to sav nothinjf of the close-
ness of the atmos[)here. By this time our small stock of
poultry had suocimibed to the weather, and drowned
fowls were said to figure prominently on the wardroom
table. On the 21st, although the barometer was still
low, we made good way on our course, and for the
next three days experienced light winds and calms.
Taking advantage of the fine weather, one of a pair
of homing pigeons was granted its libertj', in the ho[)e
tliat, as the mate was sitting on eggs, it would remain
in attend.mce ; but after one or two circles round the
ship it deserted us and flew off to the southward to
find, in all probability, a watery grave. The story is
told tiiat a pair of carrier pigeons, des])atched by Sir
John Eoss from the Arctic regions, returned to their
home in Scotland. This error has been perpetuated in
more than one popular work on Arctic discovery ; it is
almost needless to say thnt the tale is not worthy of
serious consideration.
On the 25th we passed Cape Farewell at a distance
of about 100 miles, and siglited a homeward-bound
vessel returning to Scotland with a cargo of cryolite
from the mine at Evigtok. Nearing the land many
birds collected aroimd the ship, kitti wakes reappeared,
1875
THE GREENLAND TCE-STREAM.
hHR
IS
of
ice
fulinars iiiul <iTeat slicarwalcrs were numerous, and
also a darker and souiewliat smaller species [Piifums
jjrlsi'iis). The next day a lai'j^'c dead whale {/j(d(vn<t
nii/stlcetiis) was seen, float iiiij on its back.
On the 27tli, as Ave a])proac]ied the cold ice-bearing
curi'cnt -which sweeps round Cape Farewell towards
the nortli, we experienced a thick fog, the temperature
of the air behig from 42° to o()°, and the water 40°.
A fresh northerly wind springing up gave me a
good opportunity to stand in towards tlie land to
ascertain the distance of the outer edge of the ice-stream
from the shore. As the wind freshened the fog cleared
ofT, and we fell in Avitli the ice in lat. 59° 33' N., long.
49° 0' W., the ])a(;k being ap])arently close and unnavi-
gable. The diilerence in the temi)erature of the water
may be taken as a certain guide to denote the ueigli-
boin^hood of the ice-stream.
Ten miles outside of the ice-stream the temperature
of the sea-water was as follows : —
Surface ..'..... 40°- 5
5 fathoms 40°
15 „ ;-^8°-5
22 „ 38°
At the edge of tlie ice the surface water Avas 39°, and
amongst the floes themselves it was 38°. Near the land
it is stated by Graah to be never warmer than 34°, the
cold water therefore Inigs the shore hue of South
Greenland.
The temperature of the sea ranging fi'om 34° to 38°,
being from four to eight degi'ees above the melting
point of salt-Avater ice, the floes in its neighbourhood
8
V()YA(}K TO THE I'OLAll SKA.
JUKK
I
molt witli groat nipidity. Ah llu; ovor-docayiiig puck
drifts to the nortlnvard, the bivadtli of llio strotim
iitirrowH considoraljly until at a distance of ISO niiU'w
to the northward of Ca[)e IK'solation, tlicre is little
or none of the l<^ast Greenland drift ice left unnielted.
Next day the wind prevented our using steam except
at a large expenditure of coal, so I beat to the north-
■\vard close along the edge of the ice-stream in order
to take advantage of the northerly running currcnit.
We experienced a, ciuTcnt of about sixteen miles a day
in our favour, but I think now that had I stood out
farther from the land into the warmer water we should
have fcnmd a stronger ciu'rent. A few small icebergs
were seen occasionally.
During the morning the ' Valorous ' was sighted.
She informed us by signal that ' all Avas well,' and,
much to the relief of many, that the sheep had not
suffered by their rough voyage across the Atlantic.
In the afteriu)on the wind dying away, we steamed to
the northward close alonix the edge of the ice. During
the night we experienced a tliick fog.
On the morning of the 29th, when passing at about
forty miles distant from Cape Desolation, off which the
ice natiu'ally accumulates, I found that ^\'o had run
deeper into the ice-stream tlian I had ntendeu, and was
forced to haul out from five * .lules farther away
from the land. The tempei re of the sea surface
ranged from 32° amongst the n > to )7° in the more
open spaces, the temperature of the air being also much
affected by the neighbourhood of the pack, and varying
from 37° to 34°. A few seals and a single walrus
were observed asleep on the ice.
1875
OKICJIX OF TIIK ICE.
9
'■tm
run
was
more
ludi
])
jrying
ralrus
Iliiviiig cnUjred (k'i'|)ly into llio ])ack wc had a
<^(X)d opportunity of judging of its nature. It was
totally difTcrent to iiadiu'.s ]iay ice, inasumcli as each
piece liad a sniootii Hat top witliout any sliarj) hunnnocks
of jvressed-up ice. I remarked in my journal : 'The
])ack consists of very okl floe-ice, floating frequently from
eight to ten feet, and occasionally twelve feet, above
the water. Each piece is deeply .scored horizontally
at the water line, leaving long tongue-pieces projecting
below the surface wliicli form a very large base; thus
this ice, floating high out of water, has probably one
quarter of its thickness exposed. This estimate would
make it from thirty to forty feet in total thickness. I
am nm(;h astonished at its unusual massivencss ; if all the
ice on the East Greenland coast is of a like nature wc
may cease to wonder at the misfortune which overtook
the " Ilansa " belonging to the German Expedition of
1800-70.'
We are now able to clear up all doubt respecting
the birth])lace, age, and thickness of this ice. * It is the
last remains of the hetivy Hoes formed originally in
the Polar Sea, whi(;li attain upwards of 100 feet in
thickness. These, drifting south through the main
outlet between Greenland and Spitsbergen, are carried
by the current along the East Greenland coast round
Cape Farewell ; gradually melting as they reach the
warm Atlantic water of Davis Strait, the ice has
all decayed before reaching Godhaab Fiord in lat.
G4°N.
As this pack closely resembles that met with in the
Antarctic Ocean, we may conclude that a large pro-
portion of the ice- floes formed there have attained as
ir!=
10
VOYAOE TO THE POLAR SEA.
JrNR
■ l!
I- 1< I
i; I
considerable an ago and lliickness before they drift
into wanner latitndes as those encountered by us in the
Polar Sea.
Diu'ing tlie morning we ex])erienced a dense fog,
wlii'li ])revented our seeing elearly tlie most open
channels through the pack. At 10 a.m., after struggling
tln'ougli a Nc'iy thick ])art, which nearly obliged us to
retrace our course for a sliort distance to tlie soutli-
ward, we suddenly entered ])erfectly clear water at a,
temperature of 08°; the line of demarcation l)etween
the pack-ice and cleai' water being very decided,
])roving that had we kept failher from tiie hmd we
should Iiave met with less impediment in the shape of
ice. As Ave left the pack tlie thick fog-bank cleared
off, rolling awayl)efore a northerly w nd, which shortly
afterwards increased to such an extent that Ave were
Ibrced to lie-to duiinix the followinc; niirht with a close-
reefed main topsail and trysails. The current running
to the northward against the wind ])roduced a very
short ai1|(l high sea breaking heavily, and causing the
ship to roll quicKcr and deeper than she had in the
Atlantic. Many seas bn)ke on bosu'd, endangering
the boats, and compelling us to batten down the liatcli-
Avays
Tins northerl}" gale, occurring Avith a falling baro-
meter, Avas ])eculiar. As Ave ran out of tlie pack in
the forenoon the barometer Avas stationary at 29-50, the
Aveather calm, with a very decided golden-coloured liazy
api)earance to the northward, and a clear sky over-
head ; this lasted for ahout half-an-hour, and was then
rc!placed by an arch of clouds Avliich quickly rose and
spread themselves over the sky. At sunset. 10-')0 r.M.,
i
1«
ih
DISCOLOURATION OF SEA.
11
h
vo-
iii
le
c.v-
nd
Nf.,
by wliicli time the barometer liad ftilloii to 29-10, the
western clouds were remarkably red and wii\dy-lookiiig
from near the horizon to 20° in altitude ; the gale was
then at its li eight, blowing with a force of seven.
On the morning of the 30th the b;nonieter rose
quickly ; the gale dying out by noon was succeeded
by caln^ arid beautiful weath(!r, which en;ibled us to
proceed to the northward imder low steam. When
fifty miles off the coast north of Frcderikshaab, the
edge of the ])ack obliged us to haul out a little farther
from the land, and during the following night, when a
little south of Fiskenocs, we could not get nearer the
shore than fifty miles. Since we had been in the
neighbourhood of Cape Farewell, and near the ice the
water had changed its colour to a dark olive green,
occasioned by the presence of inmnnerable diatoms ; in
the break of the sea during the gale the crest of the
waves showed a dingy yellowish green colour.
The 1st of July was a magnificent day, the barometer
higli and steady. At 9 a.m., when we were in latitude
63° 5' N., at [ibout forty-five miles' distance from land,
we appeared to have passed all the shore ice, but there
may have been some small unimportant streams close
in by the land ; at noon bv sood observations we were
on the west ed<jce of the Torske Bank, ofl' the Grocde
Fiord of Fiskernoes, thirty-eight miles distant from the
land. Expecting to find shallow water we tried for
soundings, but did not reach bottom with 130 fatlioins
of line out, the minimum temperature of the water above
that depth being 33°-5 ; at 4 P.M we again failed to
reach the bottom with the same quantity of line out ; it
is therefore evident that this bank is wrongly placed on
I
12
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
July
'Ml
:i;
the cliart. In fact the
Avliole of the coast-
Uiie, although pro-
bably relatively cor-
rect, is very roughly
delhieated, and the
charts must not be
too fully relied on.
Late in the evening
the ' Discovery ' Avas
sighted, and on the
two ships closing and
comparing notes, we
were much relieved
to find that she had
not suffered more than
ourselves. The two
vessels had never been
more than fifty miles
apart, and had expe-
rienced very similar
weather. In conse-
quence of navigating
farther in~shore than
we did, she had found
herself in the heavy
pack-ice during the
gide of June 29, and
had passed anything
but a ])leasant night ;
but fortunately the
pack was drifting to
ling
^•ht ;
the
to
i
i
?'?^'
■m
187.-)
DAVIS STRAIT.
13
leeward nearly as fast as the sliip, and so she escaped
any real damage.
Next day we obtained sonndings in thirty fathoms
on the Torske Bank '.a latitude 65° N. In the hope of
obtaining some fish tlie ships were stopped. The
• Discovery ' succeeded in catching eight large halibut
wei2;liin<jf from 20 to 25 lbs. each ; the ' Alert ' was not
so successful, failing to get on board those hauled up
to the water's edge owinii: to the want of a boat. The
dredge was also lowered, and on its recovery was
found more tlian half full of rounded stones and pebbles,
chiefly granites, gneiss, quartz, and, more sparingly,
basalts. Tlie swabs attached to the dredi'e were
bristlhig with sea-urchins and star-fish, and its living
contents showed that there is great aljundance of
animal life in this part of tlie ocean.
During the night of the 4tli the Arctic circle was
crossed ; the sun at midniglit being less than a degree
below the northern horizon, the eveniiifT and mornhifr
twilights blended into each other. From this date to
Septe'Tiber 3, when we had arrived at the ])osition
which -proved to be our winter quart (M's, and the sun
set to the northward again, we experienced i)er[)etual
day.
During the remainder of the passage to Disco we
experienced remarkal)ly fine weather with occasional
northerly winds. When siifricieiitly calm the two ships
steamed slowly to the northward at aliout ten miles'
distance fixmi the land, sail being used whenever the
wind was strong enough to enable us to make head-
way. The dark-coloured lowlands were observed to
be generally bare of snow, with here and there a snow-
pi
Mil
'I
ii ,
ih
'I
14
VOYAGE TO THE POLAH SEA.
July
filled ravine, but at an altitude of some 600 or 800 feet
there was much unmelted snow still left on the hill
sides. In the upper lauds the glacier-filled valleys
bridged the whole into a fairly level white surfoce,
above which the higher mountain tops occasionally
broke through the clouds, at so great an altitude as
to render their outline scarcely distinguishable.
Only a few str^y icebergs were sighted until we
had passed Knight Island in hititude 67° N. ; but
on approaching Disco Bay, the most southern large
birth [)lace of icebergs on the west Greenland shore, a
great number were met with ; the northerly running
ciUTent evidently wedges them away from the Green-
land coast south of Holsteinborg.
'^1
1
M
I'll
lS7o
IJISCO.
15
CHAPTER 11.
CORPUr. RECKPIION l!V THE IXSPECTOU— APPEARANCE OP THE LANO—
VI.SIT TO OVIFAK— TEMPERATURE OF DISCO lUY— ICEBERGS— EIDER
DUCKS— CROWDED STATE OF ARCTIC SHIPS— KITENUENK—WAIGAT
CHANNEL— LAST SIGHT OP THE 'VALOROUS '—PROVEN— UPER-
NIVIK— LEA\E RITENBENK— FASTENING TO AN ICEBERG-SCENERY
OF COAST— GEOLOGICAL FORMATION— HANS HEINDRICH— SANDER-
son's HOPE— UPERNIVIK— DANISH OFFICIALS.
Ox our arrival on July 6 at the Danish settleincMit
of Lievely, situated on the south-western side of the
Ishiiid of Disco, we found the ' Valorous ' at anchor in
tlie outer bay. She had arrived two days previously
after experiencing very similar weather to that which
we had encountered. On rounding Cape Desolation
she had to thread her way througli ice-streams, and in
so donig slightly damaged tlie floats of her paddles • a
more distant offing would I tliink lead a vessel north
without any danger from the ice. We were received
at Lievely uith a salute from the small battery in front
of tlie insi)ector's liouse, a courtesy which I could only
return by di])ping our ensign.
At Disco I was much pleased to meet Hen In-
spektor Krarup SmitJi, the governor of North Green-
land. Nothing could be kinder or more courteous
than Ins recc].tion of the Exi^edition, and his anxiely
that all our requirements should be pro\ided for. In
IC)
VOYAGE TO TI[M POLAK SEA.
July
Hi: I
111,
I i
ii!
II ij
order to personally attciul to our wants lie had most
considerately put off his periodical tour of ins])ection
to the outlying settlements until after our visit. He
informed us that the previous winter liad been a mild
one, followed by Ji backward spring.
At this date a considerable quantity of snow was
still mimelted on the hill-sides and in the ravines,
whilst, bordering the shore, the snow-drift was still
visible. By tlie time of our dej^arture from Disco,
July 15, the snoAv had all melted from the sides of
the liills and but little was left along the beach : the
tints of the fost-growing vegetation bordering each
side of the mountain rivulets with a rich fringe of
bright green moss deepened day by day, or appeared
to do so as we became more accustomed and so more
reconciled to its scantiness. Many patches of snow left
immelted in the hollows were tinted red from the
presence of Protococcus nivalis. Leaving England in
summer, and arriving at an Arctic port in the month of
July, it is difficult to realise that one has overtaken the
season, that the thaw has only lately commenced, and
that summer will not be at its height for a week or two.
On the 10th Mr. Kraru]:) Smith was anxious to quarry
coal, in readiness for Captain Allen Young, who had
asked me to order a supply for the use of the ' Pandora,'
but the snow was still lying thick, and the ground was
so hard witli frost near the coal seams, that they could
not be worked before the 17th.
Whilst on shore, on July 7, with Captain Feilden, we
found a snow-bunting's nest with nx eggs in it. The
flowers by that date were fast bursting into bloom ; the
white-blossomed Cassiopeia tetragona gave qiute a
i
■■■#
is7r»
OVIFAK.
:)ra,
I was
)uld
we
iThe
the
le a
lieatliv look to the tolls. Azalea vronnnbem, the arctic
])()])|)y, the bright yellow Pech'adaHs and several snxi-
frajies were common : and in sheltered clefts of the basalt
ridges ferns were unfold ing theii* bright green fronds.
The settlement of Lievely is built on an ice-worn
islet of syenite, which is separated at high tide from
the island of Disco by a narrow bo:it-cliamiel ; the high
cliffs of that island ])rotect it in a great measure from
the winds occurring in Davis Strait, and its climate is
considenibly milder than that of any of the other
trading ])orts in North Greenland, Situated in a high
northern latitude and yet free from the presence of the
main pack, it is the most convenient and suitable of the
North Greenland ports for the transhipment of stores.
The neiQ;hl)ourincv sea is encumbered with a laro-e
mnnber of icebergs which are discharged from the
Jacobshavn and other glaciers on the east side of the
bay, but no drift-ice need be dreaded after the end of
Mav, and as the sea is not frozen ovei' luitil late in
Decembei' communication can be maintained, if neces-
sary, for at least six months in the year. Small ice-
bergs, entering through the Avestern channel with the
Hood tide, drift about the outer harbour, but those of
suilicient size to endanger a ship become! stranded at
the edge of the shallow water before reachinnf the inner
anchorage.
In the course of conversation with Mr. Kraru]) Smith,
he mentioned that during the ])rcvious sunmier an
Eskimo passing in his kayak under the chffs of Ovifak,
liad descried two pieces of stone under water, close to
the spot where Professor Nordenskiold discovered tlie'
so-called meteoric iron-stones, which were removed in
VOfi. I. c
Ii ll
li,
I i
III '
'III
18
VOYA(}]': TO THE I'OLAlf SJvV.
.TtTLY
1871 by the Swedish Expedition under Vun Otter.
The Greenhuider Avas of opinion that the masses he
detected were precisely similar to those taken away by
the Swedes, I decided to have the place examined,
and on the 9th, Captain Feilden with Lieutenant Aldrich
and a boat's crew, accompani'^d by the Greenlander
who ^^1ve the information, started for Ovifak. Land-
ing with considerable difUcidty at the spot indicated, a
careful search was instituted, but owing to the rough-
ness of the sea, or to the removal of the stones them-
selves by the action of the waves, the search proved
unsuccessful so for as these particular masses were
concerned. Subsequently, we procured some lumps
of iron from the same locality. It appears that the
metallic iron of Ovifak is distributed throughout a
])articular basalt, in small grains as well as in masses,
whilst ])articles of the basalt are freely dispersed
throughout the lumps of iron, thus pointing to the
telluric origin of the mineral.
On Sunday the 11th, the opportimity was taken of
holding a sacrament service in the chapel on shore,
when most of the officers and a number of the crews of
the three ships attended.
While we were near the Greenland coast, farther to
the southward, the tem})erature of tlie water was never
above 40°, but in Disco Bay we found it considerably
higher, ranging to 49° in the more open ])arts of the
sea near the southern shores. With the temperature of
the air occasionally up to 50°, and the water at least
10° above the melting point of fresh-water ice, the
niunerous icebergs were melting very rapidly. Large
masses constantlv broke asunder and, fallinii' into the
18
/•)
ICEr.Kl{(}S.
Ill
the
en of
lore,
!\vs of
sea, eaiised great cominotioii. Tlie balance of the ice-
bergs being consequently altered, they rolled backwards
and forwards until erjuilibriuni was restoi'cd and tliey
settled down to a new line of flotation or a ])osition of
poise on the ground. In the latter case, tlie grooving
elTect produced on the bottom by these enormous
masses of ice oscillating to and fro must be very great.
Large quantities of sea-weed [Laniinaria) rising to tlie
surface, show what havoc is caused by the grounding
and overturning of these ice-islands, and the many dead
fish, chiefly Coitus, cast iij) on the beach of Disco Island,
owe their destruction no doul)t to the same agency.
The sup])ly of fresh water having run short and
there being several small berg-pieces studding tlie
harbour, one Avas towed alongside the 'Alert' and
broken up, the pieces being transferred to one of the
water-tanks. This ])roved a mistake ; the cold air in
the tank converted it hito a perfect ice-box, und it was
found necessary to pour hot water into the tank in
order to melt the ice.
A number of sealskin over-boots were obtained,
wliich were afterwards found most comfortable for
wearing in a cabin with a cold draught near the floor,
but owin<? to some misunderstanding rcyardins niv
wishes, the supply of sealskhi soles for the travelling
mocassins was not so plentiful as I afterwards desired.
It is scarcely possible to lay in too laige a stock of this
invaluable material, which is far more durable than
ordinary leather ; but a large exjiedition, such as ours,
should not expect to obtain a sufficient quantity of seal-
skins at the Greenland settlements unless they have
been ordered lieibrehand.
I
'Mil
I ill
20
VOYAGE TO TllJ'] VOLAll SJOA.
.lui.v
Eider ducks of two species {Soniatcria sixrtd/nU.s,
and S. tnollUsinia) were very coimnoii around Disco
Island. Tlie natives brouglil a considerable number to
our sliii)s, and we found them such ^ood eating that a
larger su])[)ly would have been deemed acceptable. It
has been stated that eider ducks are uneatable on
account of their fishy taste, but we did not find that to
be the case. The fish obtained from tlie Greenlanders,
chieily rock-cod, and a si)ecies of salmon-trout, were
good but not [)lentiful. Our crews being fully employed
we were unable to use our own nets, or i)robably we
should have obtained a large supply, tlu; neighbouring
fisheries being verv rich.
The light canvas Berthon boats, available for one
or two persons, proved of great service. A few of
the ofiicers became rather exi)ert in the use of the
kayak, but not without one very narrow escape.
When a kayak is overturned it becomes an air-fioat
acting in the most undesirable manner by ]:)reventing
the immersed man fru-n coining to the surface ; in the
case referred to, the officer had the presence of mind to
disentangle himself from his trousers, and Avriggle his
body, whilst under \vater, out of the tight-fitting a|)er-
ture of the kayak, leavirig his nether garments behind.
An endeavour was made to obtain a bearing of the
' Parry liock,' lying six or seven miles to the southward
of the harbour ; its existence is undoubted, and situated
in the fairway, if immarked by icebergs aground, is a
most dangerous reef.
On the evening of the IStli, after obtaining satis-
factory sights for rating our chronometers, and taking
on board twenty-four Eskimo dogs, the Expedition
.lUt.Y
is7i
I.'ITKNHKN'K.
21
Disco
l)er to
hat a
2. It
le on
liat to
ndurs,
, were
)loyed
3ly we
oLiriiig
[W one
tew of
of the
escape.
ir-lloat
eating
ill the
liud to
Lile his
a[)er-
jhiiid.
of the
hward
litiiated
id, is a
[v satis-
1 taking
htion
let
started for Ritenbenk, sitnated at tlie S.E. end of the
Waigat Strait. Mr. Krarup Smith kindly aecoinpanied
us, to insure our obtaining tlie remainder of the dogs
we recjiiired, and it supply of coal for the 'Valorous,'
Captain Loftus Jones having decided to tiike some on
board from the coal mine on the western side of the
strait.
The Arctic ships, having on board three years'
supplies, were necessarily very deep in the water, and
the up])er decks were much encumbered with stores
of provisions for which room could not be found
below. As it was necessary to keep supphcs ready
for immediate use in case of accident to the ships
when navigating through Melville Bay, and Smith
Sound, such provisions iis the boats could hokl were
stored ready to hand : in addition, a month's supply for
all hands was kept prepared on the deck of eacli ship,
to be landed at suitable ])laces in the event of the
crews having to retreat south by boat. These were
named respectively the A, and B depots, and had
been })repared in England before the Expedition
started. The ])o>il.ions selected for their deposit were
one of the Gary Islands in Baffin's Bay, and Cape
Frazer hi Smith Sound ; the mainland would have been
preferable to the lirst-named place, had it not been
necessary to take precautions to hide it from the
Eskimo, who inhabit the coast of Greenland between
Cape York and Ilartstene Bay.
After a calm but very foggy passage along the
south shore of Disco Island, threading our way amidst
a vast number of icebergs, we arrived at Eitenbenk
at 11 A.M. of the 16tli, and anchored in seventeen
22
VnYA(!K TO THE I»()T,AI! SKA.
.TlT.V
I I
Hilj
I ii
lii'
'I! '<;'■
ri I'll
Hiilhi
I Mill iiil
II "I ;;'
!i
t'atlionis. The (Iciixiiiioii of tin; ii, iiu'of this sct-tlcincnt,
as I wii.s iiii'ormcfl, is s{)mewhaf fancil'iii. Foimded
about the y oar 17')'), it received the iiauu! of Jierkeiitiii
after a nobleman of that name, who at the date men-
tioned presided over Greenlandic all'airs in Demnark.
The minister by a transposition of tlie letters of liis
name convei-ted it into Uitenbenk.
The ancliorage being deep and ex|)ose(l to diiftinji'
ieebergs cannot be d(!emed a secure oni;. Whilst ar-
rangements were being made for eom|)leting onr suj)plies
a shooting party started for a neighbonring 'loomery,'
on the north-west coast of Arve Prins Island ; they
returned in the evening with seventy-five guillemots and
razor-bills [Alot bn/i'iinichi and Alea tarda). The loom
or guillemot of the Arctic seas differs from its close
ally Alca troile, found so connnonly aronnd the British
Isles, in its short stout bill ; on the wing it wM)uld be
impossible to separate the two species. We did not
observe the razor-bill north of the Waigat,
When at Godha-vn, Disco, we remarked how
densely each fresh-water pool was inhalited by the
larvaj of mosquitoes just on the point of changing their
condition to the winged state. A few days later at
Ritenbenk the mosquitoes on shore were intolerable,
and when getting under weigh, the weather being
calm, these persistent aniioyers fiiirly took possession of
the upper deck.
Hefore ])arting com})any with the 'Valorous,'
owing to the larw pei'centaue of officers in the
Expedition, I decided to carry only one paymaster to
superintend the victualling of the two ships. Mr.
Edgar Whiddon, belonging to the 'Alert,' was there-
i.«:5
KSKIMO DOOS.
how
)y the
their
ter at
ruble,
being
ion of
the
ter to
Mr.
there-
fore ordered to return to Enghuid, jNfr. G. Le Clerc
Egerton, sub-lieulenant, being appointed to super-
intend the issue of the |)rovisions on board tlie ' Alert.'
No serious disadvantage arose from this arrangement.
On leaving Ritenbenk tliere were tliiity Kskimo
dogs on the u])])er deck of tlie ' Alert ' and twenty-live
on board of the 'Discovery,' still further encumber-
ing tlu! naiTow gangways left available between the
piled-up ])i'()\isions. My journal thus alluded to these
animals: ' lieinif iii stranu^e (luarters they arc; l)avinL;
in conci'rt, the distracting noise; fre<|uently diversified
by a sharp howl as a sailor in forcing his way through
their midst uses the toi; of his boot. The j)aeks
collected from diirerent settlements ari' strangers to
each other. The king-dog of each team is necessarily
tied up, his subordinates of both sexes clusterhig
around, and crouching at his feet In their anxious
endeavours to protect their followers, the females of
whom are rather given to straying, and if possible to
maintain and extend their rights, these king-dogs are
straining their very utmost at the ropes, snarling and
lifting their up])er lips, evidently longing for the time
to arrive when they may fight it out, and decide who
is to be ruler over all. By sheer fighting each has
worked his way uj) to the position lie now holds, the
most determined and endurinn" annuals "ainin«j the
day. A long series of combats will be undertaken
before the supreme heavl is acknowledged, and here-
after many an attempt at revolution will be fought out
by rising aspirants for power, as the old chiefs become
Avoru out from age or other causes. It would appear
as if fighting were an enjoyment or natural condition
24
VOYAGE TO THE POI.All SEA.
.Trr,Y
III II I :..,
)
Ihli
11
Hi
m\
ill': !h
"■i,li i;'!i
'III
II
'I
of their existence. In maintaining discipline amongst
the ^veaker sex, ])nnishineiit is left entirely in the
hands, or rather month, of the favourite queen, who,
except Avhen jealousy may occasionally Avarp her
judgment, uses her prerogati\e pretty fairly, whilst it
frequently lajjpens that the king-dog himself submits
without resentment to u snarl frojn his queen.
Frederick the Eskimo, wlio joined us at Lievely 1o
take charge of the dogs, has readily settled down to
his work; his broad, flat, good-humoured face is
certaiidy jiot handsome, but his character is most
excellent, and above all he is unmarried.'
Early on the morning of tlie 1 7th we left Ritenbenk
under steam, the 'Discovery' in tow, bound to the
northward tln'ouo;h the Waiijat Channel: the ' Valorous '
having pai'led <'ompany a few hours previously pro-
ceedinjj; to the coal mines on the weyt side of tlu;
Waigat. After clearing the anchorage the two ships
made sail befoi'c a southerly win(^ : crossing the
entran( (' of Svartc Vogel Bay, a huge ' hK)mery ' was
sighted on its uortliern shore. The Waigat Channel
was found io be much cncumbei'cd by icebergs and
broken ice, which were streaming out from the
neii>hbourliood of the Tossukatek Glacier throu<>-li the
fiord north of Arve IViiis Island, and driving quickly
toward;-' the north-west before a br(!eze of fair strength.
From their dirty unwashed appearance the majority of
these icebergs were evidentl}' ne^ly broken oil' from
the glacier, and although the temperature of the water
was 40° they had not yet decayed sufficiently to alter
their balance. They were extremely rugged in outline,
and appeared as if formed of a collection of boulder
;i|i
]s7r.
THJO • \AL()1!0US.'
25
iixtli.
ico I'ofrozeii into a solid form, .siicli as would bo the
case with a glacier forced over a rough steei) iiK.'liue ;
some were table-topped, as if broken from a smooth-
surfaced glacier slopiu'j; at a small angle to the water.
None of these icebergs were more than fifty feet
Iiiu'li. but their number was sufhcient to render Gjreat
care necessary in (choosing a ])assage between them.
Not expecting lo experience such <*lose sailing the
boats had been left hanging to the davits outboard,
and were occasionally endangered when passing through
the narrow water-channels.
When abreast of Atanekerdhdv fiNe kayaks, and
an omiak containing women and children, were met ;
thc^y |)addl(Hl alongside, keeping pace with the ships,
and vsc iiad the satisfaction of being able to su[)ply
them witli biscuit, no doubt a very welconu^ tiddition
to tlieir usual meat and fish diet.
Thinking that the ' Valorous ' witli her projecting
])addK's would not be abk' to force a passage through
sucii ice iis we encountered, all hopes of meeting lier
again were given u]), but during the afternoon she was
sighted lying quietly at anchor ofl' the coaling station,
having found, as we afterwards learnt, a channel much
clearer of ice near the land. Wishing to put on board
our last letters, we hauled to the wind and beat to
windward for her anchorage, but a very thick fog
setting in as the wind moderated, the separation of the
'Alert' and ' Discoverv ' was feared; hence we were
forcetl to abandon our intention of communicating, and
proceeded to the northward. By midnight, when we
had run througli the r.ost ice-encumbered part of the
channel, the wind died away, but as the fog continued
I'illl III
III
'"II
1
1 1
1
!
i
1 J
1 1
i
t
ilM,
iill
I i
ill "111
iij Jilii
mi .mil
2(]
VOYArjE TO THE I'OLAR SEA.
.Trr,Y
very thick, it bcH^ame necessary eitlier to gel up steam
or secure the s]ii[)s to an iceberg to prevent tlieni
drifting into danger. I adopted the latter course.
When a vessel is under steam nothing is simpler
than for a seaman to descend by a rope ladder from
the bowsprit end on ti) the ice below, kd iig well
away from its edge, but in landing from > i)oat care is
necessary when scaling the side of a berg. On our
drifting near an a])parently convenient piece of i'^c
a boat's crew were sent to fix the ice-anchor an^i
hawser. One of the men, in spite of the decayed
condition of the ice, managed to crawl up it in ^nfety ;
but at the first blow from his chisel a lar»e Uins,'-^ ^roke
ofl", fortunately shooting clear of the boat and crew
beh)w. The amount disengaged was sufTicient to
disturb the equilibrium of tiie iceberg, wliich began to
rock backwards and forwards ; the man, naturally
frightened, was obliu'cd to struL*'Q;le as best he could
aiong its slippery surface< like a squirrel in a circular
cage, much to the amusement of his shi])mates on the
forecastle. The performance, however, involved a
certain element of danger, which I shorild have pre-
fei'red to avoid.
In the Waigat, like all narrow channels bounded
1)\ lofty hills, the winds are very loca'., and vvdiile
blowing with force at the entrance seldom pre\ail
throughout the Avliole length ; hence the ici'bergs
driven before the wind accunudate at the locality
where tlie breeze ends. With a strong south-east
wind at the southern entrance we found the icebergs
collected in m-eat mnnbers ii the middle of the strait,
but at tlie north-west entrance noar Hare Island few
MHMf
I
Jrr.v
1S75
\\ai(;at.
27
XTIXS
1
•alitv
1
i-east
1
)ergs
J
trait,
^ m
1 lew
:m
were HU't with. Those seen liad melted considerably
since their formation ; floating in water at a tem])eratnre
of 40°, deei) (grooves htid been Avorn horizontally at the
water edge, tiie many old flotation liiies thus marked
sliowed that they had frequently altered tiieir position
in the sea.
The dilFerenoe of climate, due to the aspect of the
hill sides, was rei.^aikably well di.splayed in the Waigat.
The Greenland shore, with its southern frontage, liad
on ilie 1 8th scarcely a trace of snow left on it ; but the
o[)positi' sliore of Disco was still snow-covered, with
its mountain summits capped by a per[)etual glacier.
Ice cascades were very cons[)icuous in the upper parts
of the steep gullies, descending like giant stej)s from
one upland ridge to the next below ; with enormous
boulders ])lenti fully dispersed throughout the descend-
ing streams. The many glacier ice cliffs, with a dis-
tinct overhano-ino- «inow coverinfj and yet havino- no
O O O . CD
debris lying at the foot, forms a question for interesting
invest io-ation.
On both sides of the strait some of the smaller
torrents a])|)eared to be still frozen, but I think that
must have been due to abnormal and local dillerencc
of temj)erature, for when passmg the mouth of the
Makkak Eiver, which drains the Xoursoak Peninsula,
its nuiddy and discoloured waters extended three or four
miles out to sea, showing tliat it was running strongly,
and deposithiii' a larue amount of alluvial nuitter.
A line breeze from the JS.W., with misty weather,
carried us quickly to the north, and on the morning of
the 19th, when abreast of Svarten link (Black Cape),
tile mist partially cleared od', brinmui? Skale and
Inllll
illil
ll lilli
'III I
I II
nw
Ml 111 I
!l!
ii I.
■I' •I'll:
:'i|ii iiiiin
'I 'i: M
28
VOYADE TO THE POT-ATJ SEA.
July
Kiiij^atak Islands into view, and enabled us to ascer-
tain our position with sufficient accuracy to steer in
towards Proven ; but the headlands along the coast
are tdl so muc^^. alike in form and colour that in misty
Avcatlier, with only one in sight, a stranger would be
puzzled to ascertain his whereabouts.
After passing between Kingatak and Tukingaisnk
the sonth-westerly wind died awav, and a strontjf tidal
curreiit obliged us to get U]) steam. Taking the
' Discover}'' ' in tow, the harbour was entered abont an
lioui- before midnight, when we were leceived by the
few inhabitants, who clustered upon the sloi)es about
the settlement, in their many coloured pictiuesque
clothing. Following the chart, it would apjiear prac-
ticable l^o (!nter the anchoraii'e direct from the south-
ward, but a sunken reef blocks the channel and
obliges vessels to pass round on the western side of
the outer island and to enter by the northern channel.
The water being very deep, except on one ledge close
to the shore near the settlement, a jiilot is necessary to
])oint out the anchorage, which after all is ver}* mcky
and untrustworthy holdinij ground. Durinu' the niixht
a southerly wind, force five to six, causing squalls off
the high land, made me rather anxious, but the anchors
held on, the cables, however, grinding a good deal
against the rocky bottom.
Tlie inhabitants of Proven amount to about lOG
souls, and were presided o\-er at the time of our visit
by Governor Moldrup, who obligingly assisted us in
completing our su])plies. The island on which the
settlement is built is composed of gneiss, but the
islands that lie more to the southward, and tlu^ great
\fiio
ritOVEN.
2!)
peninsula of Svarteu link, are a])parently analogous in
their fornintion to Disco Island and the Xoursoak Penin-
sula. A line drawn W, and E. through the setilenient
of Proven and extended inland would rou<'hlv delinc
the limit of the gi'anitoid rocks from those of later
origin. To the northward along the coast, ice-worn
mountains, ])lentifully sprinkled Avith enormous erra-
tics, rise in endless succession; southward the llat-
topi)ed hills, the horizontal bedding and varied coloured
strata, with bands of columnar basalt, show that tlu'
land has, from some cause or other, escaped the tre-
mendous degradation that has obliterated every trace
of the softer tertiary strata, which in all ])robability
at some former period covered the gneiss hills to
Ini' north of Proven. The whole of the island is be-
strewed with erratic^, many of protligious size; they
are chiefly gneiss, gi'anites, and syenites, but on the
very sunnnit of the island a few boulders of basalt were
observed. The flora of Proven is by no means as rich
as tliat of Disco, but Betula nana, the dwarf birch of
the Arctic zone, was conniion. Snow-buiitinss were
numerous, and by this date the young in a nest were
well fledged ; several parties of young wheatears
[Stuvkola u'nanthe) were flying about the rocks neai' the
shore, their familiar ' chuck chuck ' resounding on all
sides.
My chief object in visiting Proven was to endea\ our
l(» obtain the services of Hans Hehidrich, the Green-
lander who had previously accompanied three American
exj)editions to Smith Sound. C)n our arrival he was
absent in charge of a boat, but having seen the shij)s
a|)[)i()aching, he returned to the settlement with all
i!
mm
''Mil !
''!l
! I
II Ml nil
'., .■! Mil
llll
llljl
30
VOYACiE TO TIIK l'(»I-Ali SKA.
JlLY
speed, and after a. short consultation witli liis wife
agreed to ioin our Exi)editioii and leave his family
behind. He proved himself to be an admirable hunter
and an excellent dog-driver. Hans when a lad of
nineteen joined Dr. Kane's expedition in l-SjS. After
rendering invaluable services to his companions during
their two Avinters' stay at liensselaer Harbour, Smith
Sound, he married Merkut, the daughter of Shanghu,
one of the 'Arctic Highlanders,' who tended him when
lying sick at Hartstene Bay : he remained behind with
his wife when Dr. Kant' abandoned his vessel and
travelled south to Upernivik in boats. In 1 800, after
he had passed five years with the 'Arctic Highlanders,'
Dr. Hayes finding Hans at Cape York, took him iind
his wife and child on board his vessel the ' United
States'; on the homeward voyage in 1861 he was
landed with his belongings at Upernivik. In 1871 he
joined Captain Hall in the ' Polaris,' taking his wile
and three children with him. He was one of the i)arty
who were separated from the 'Polaris' in a gale of
whid, and drifted during the long winter of 1872-73
from Smith Sound to the southward of Hudson's
Straits; during that time he and Joo another Eskimo
preserved the lives of their com])anions by tlieir
indefatigable and noble exertions in himtinjT: and
procuring seals.
Hans having bid farewell to his wife [uid children,
we left Proven on the evenhig of the 21st. The
Aveather being calm we ])roceeded to the northward
under low steam with the ' Disco\ery ' in tow ; having
ji ])ilot on board we adopted the inner passage, and
tlnxnided Our wav between the numerous islands that
J8
<•)
SANDEUSOXS IIUPK.
81
e
73
s
no
'ir
n\
lie
rd
1(1
lie between Proven iiiid Upernivik. The scenery
betweeii tliese two ])]iiees is .superb ; ni:igiiificent clifl's
of gneiss rise slicer from the water's edge to a lieight
of 1,000 to 1,200 feet ; the rich colouring of the rocks
])rescnted an almost inconceivable riclmess of hues,
and formed a striking; contrast to the glaciers and mer
lie glace. Passing a small settlement picturesquely
situated in a little bay on the island of Kasorsoak, of
wliich Sanderson's Hope forms the western headland,
two men came out from the land to meet us ; ])addling
ill their kayaks tlicy dexterously picked u]) the food
tlirown to them in parcels buoyed up by empty
bottles.
At midnight we were abreast of the noble headland
of Sanderson's Ho])e with its noted 'loomery.' Being
desirous of obtaining a supply of birds I stopped the
ships for a couple of hours, and sent tlie boats away ;
but tlie result, as compared witli the reported successes
of ])rior visitors, was unsatisfactory, only 122 guillemots
being brougiit to bug by the united endeavours of
sportsmen from both ships. The razor-bill, wliich
shared the cliffs at Ritenbcnk Avitli the guillemot, was
not observed here. As the boats approached thou-
sands of birds flew from the clifis sweejiing numbers
of eggs off the ledges, wliich broke as they reached
the water; at this date the young were nearly ready
for hatching. In spite of the swell one of the party
nunuiged to get on to the rocks, and procured several
ciivrs ; one was taken from underneath the sittino- bird,
who remonstrated bv peckinu- at the hand of the
spoiler. A thick fog setting in obliged me to I'ccall
the boats.
I i
! I
Mill
il ! !
li! il III
Mini:
■'II
II
;|i I,
32
VOYAflK TO TIIH POLAR Sl'.A.
Jrr.v
Feeling our Avuy carefully iiloug- and trusting
entirely to the chtirt, for our Greenland i)ilot became
at a loss in the fog, we entered U|)ernivik Harbour,
and anchored at five in the morning, before any of the
residents knew of oin- arrival : indeed the fog was so
dense that the shi[)s aj)j)roached withhi a hundred
yards of the settlement before it was sighted. We
found two or three small iceberjjs aground on the bank
forming tlie only shallow water anchorage, where they
occupied a considerable jiart of the available space.
This bank from its steepness is in all probability the
moraine of an ancient glacier. In the early season
before the floe ice has been finally driven off to sea,
the anchorage can scarcely be considered a protected
one, for floathig ice must frequently necessitate a
change in the ship's position.
We met at Upernivik Governor Fliescher and
' Sophie ' his wife ; the latter the considerate friend of
idl Enghsh voyagers since the first of the Franklin
Search Expeditions. I had the pleasure of presenting
her with a thoughtfid present of crockery from Sir
Leopold M'Clintock.
1 am afraid that few of the transient visitors to
these North Greenland settlements think of the dreary
winters which the Danisli inhabitants nuist necessarily
])ass. Disco and Eitenbenk are in the same latitude as
Igloolik, where Sir Edward Parry wintered between
1821 and 1823, and as King William's Land, where
Franklin's slups were lost. Upernixik is very little
south of Lancaster Soiuid, where so many expeditions
have ])assed their Avinters. With a well foimd naval
expedition newly arrived from southern chmes the
I87r,
UPKHMVIK.
S)i
to
monotony of a-loiig dark Avintcr, wliicli a|)i)ears sonu'-
tliin<4 (U'eadful and dismal in the anticipation, is con-
siderably relieved by the charm of novelty. Tlie Danish
inhabitants, who are obhucd to endure a yearly re-
curring period of equal darkness with only one or two
associates, can but contrast the monotony of one
winter with the past ; life under these circumstances
nuist be hard indeed, and tlie l^anish oflicials and
missionaries who voluntarily undergo it are entitled
to our liveliest commiseration.
Since 1721, the year of Eujede's settlement at
Godhaab in South Greenland, the Danes have con-
sistently endeavoiu'ed to im])rove and amelioi'ate the
condition of the Eskhno inhabitants of Greenhuid.
Their ellbits have been ci'owned with marked success,
and the paternal rule of the Danish Government has
been conducted with such complete regard for the
interests of the Greenlanders, that we fmd the native
])0])ulation scattered along the coasts of that inhospit-
able laud enjoying the blessings of religion, law, order,
and a considerable degree of civilizfition. This en-
succession
ugntened j)oiicy lias Deeii car;
of worthy udicials and mission
labours reflect the utmost cred
coimtry to which they belong.
•ied out by a
aries, whose self-denying
it on themselves and the
"^ as
teen
lere
ttle
Ions
ival
he
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VOL I.
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II
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VOYAdl'! TO Tin'. I'OT,AI! SEA.
.Tn.Y
CIIA1»TEH TIL
T.I'.AVR UPRRNIVIK — IXTIJICATK XAVlOATrON — ' ALKKT ' AOKOUXT) — TTIR
'middlk ick' — MKiiVir.rj; iiav — caim; yoi;k and tiik 'nortiiwatkk'
— NATIVKS OF CAI'I'] YdliK — liKVKIU.KY CI.Il'I'S — CAHY ISr.AN'DS —
NOUTIIUMliEULAND AM) IIAKLUYT ISLANHS — C'Al'li ATiKXANDER.
Thh biU'onictcT reiiiainiiig very steady at 30*5 iiiclu's, 1
liastoiK'd to take advantage oi" tlie favoiiraljle weather,
Uaviii<r succeeded in obtaiiniig observations for correct-
ing tlie chronometers, the Expedition left Upernivik
on the eveninu of the 22nd. A thick fog to seaward
rendered it very nnadvisable to attempt a ])assagc in
tliat direction, but tlie weather being perfectly clear in-
shore, with the assistance of an Eskimo pilot wo passed
safely through tlic narrow and intricate channels leading
to Kangitok. The scenery in tliis passage is exceedingly
]iictiiresque. At first starting it is necessary to pass
through a narrow rocky channel not more than fifty
yards broad, the dark-coloured rocks rising on the
left hand to above the mastheads, though on the right
sufficiently low to disclose the maiidand beyond, which
j)resents a line of grand rainpart-likc cliffs rising for at
least 1,000 feet abruptly from the water's edge. The
giant portids on either side of the many glacicr-cnt
fiords wliich break the continuity of the coast, are
conspicuously marked by corresponding lines of strati-
iication. This narrow channel continued for about
I
1878
KA\(iITOK.
t)')
:lier.
IVf't-
livik
ward
ve 111
r in-
issod
iding
pass
fifty
I the
riii;lit.
diieli
or at
The
3r-ciit
arc
It rat i-
libout
two miles, niid llicii widened info a hvj^r iee-eneimi-
l)ei('d iiilaiid sea. To seaward all l)iit the base of tlio
nearest islands was enshrouded in dense fou', but in
I lie (lireelion of the iee-elad mainland of Greenland
the atmosphere was singularly clear, and all objects
remai kably distinct ; allliou^ih in coiisef[uence of the
liiiiil rellected from the iiicr de </l«f('t', the .skvdine was
ill deliiu'd. On the slightly inclined ice-caj), iiumerous
romided elevations, conspicuously scored with crevasses,
denoted the undulations of the biiiii'd land below.
The coast glaciers Avere unfortunately hidden from our
view l)y the outlying rocky islets, and these again
wei-e fronted by imiumerable icebergs so coin])letely
rellected in the calm sea as to render it dilficiilt to dis-
tinguish the intermediate water-chamu'ls. The whoU^
sceiu! was brilliantly lighted by an unclouded midnight
sun.
Our Eskimo j)ilot, who })romised to guide us safely
|)ast Kangitok, joined us very willingly at Upernivik,
his kayak being lifted on board ; but as the distance
from his home increased he became very uneasy, and
had I not forcibl}^ detained his means of conveyance;
he would certainly have broken his share of tlie l)ar-
gain, and left us when amongst a bewikleriug grou|)
of islands durinii a thick fon;. However, after beini;
conA'inced that might was on our side, he bec^aine sufii-
ciently reconciled to his fate to be useful, but never
legahied complete confidence. So long iis we headed
inshore we ex])erienced clear weather, but whenever
we tried to proceed seaward we met the fog. Arrivhig
near Kangitok, the outlying island of the group, we were
forced to wait for the fog to cl(>ar, it being occasionally
I. :>
a?
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m
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
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Photographic
Sdences
Corporation
33 W':T MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, NY. 14580
(716) 873-4503
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VOVAriK TO TITi: rnT,.M! SKA.
Jri.v
so tliick jis to liidi' iVoin our view llu; "Discovery,' in
tow itsteni of us. In vain did I look Ioi'mu auclioniL^c,
or a suitahly jjTouudi'd iceberg to wiiicli to secure
tlio slii|)s; the lifst 'was unol)taiiial)]e in eoiisequeiiee
of tlie water a ship's leiiath fi'oiii the sliore lu-ini*
a liundiH'd fatJioms iu de|)tli, and tlie few ieehei'L's
airrouMd were so close to the laud as to occasion
«
Miicertaiu eddy curri'uts in their near viciuity. After
driltiiiii about in an unknov/u neighbourhood for six
anxiously spent hours, a uiomeulary clearance of the
alnios|)here look ])lace, and Ave observed two Eskimo
in theii" kavaks close alonuside. Evervthinii was so
(iuiel,aiid the luiiihbourhood apparently so destitute of
life, that llii'ir appearance quite startled us; and it is
(lillicult to imagine the first impressions of the natives at
so unexpected a sight as our ships must liave ])resented
on su(k]enlv emeriiiuif iVoni the foi*'. After a short
consultation through Petersen and the pilot they
volunteered to conduct us to an anchorage.
Following the kayaks, at the same time steaming
very slowly and soundinu" carefully, I suddeidy felt the
shi|) strike the ground; hailing the 'Discovery,' her
officer of the watch, by smart attention to the lielm,
avoided running into us. Before I could take stej)s to
lighten the ship, the quickly falling tide had fixed her
hard and fast on shore. As it was nearly low-water and
the fog still thick outside, 1 allowed the ship to
remain quiet where she was, the 'Discovery' still
han<nn«; to us by the towin<»- hawser. Advantajj^e was
taken of the enforced delay to land the ship's com-
])anies. The ofiicers spread themselves over the island,
some taking magnetic observations, others with tl.ieir
4
Jll.Y
l^<7o
.MKI.VILIJ; lUY.
;J7
jry, in
secure
qiience
C!i'l)er,!is
icciision
After
for six
I of the
Eskimo
Wiis so
titiile of
ud it is
atives :it
ri'st'iiti'd
a sliort
t tliey
iteainiiiLl
felt the
TV,' her
le hehii,
steps to
lixed lier
later and
sliip to
jry' still
lai2;e was
r "
)'s coni-
le island,
lith their
jiiiiis iioping to obtain j^'anie ; both kin;^ and common
eider ducks wei'e found and females of both species
were shot od" their nests. The i>land is composed of
red gneiss; veins o*' (piartz with largt; garnets in it
traverse the rock in a north and south directit)n.
As tlie tide rose our straL'ixler.s were recalled, and
just before noon the ship iloated, without having in-
curred any strain or damage. The fog having cleared
considerably, we at once [)roceeded to sea, discharging
our pilot, jireatly to his delight and relief. At 4 I'.M.
we were abreast of the lirown Islands, with a sea
perfectly clear of drift-ice. A high and steady baro-
meter denoting that the calm weather which we had
lately experienced would ]»robably continue, and lind-
luiS the ice at a u'reat distance from the Greeidand
shore, I decided to attem])t a j)assage through the
•Middle Ice' I'ather than to |)roceed by the ordinary
route round jVIelville Jiay. Accordingly the two ships
proceeded at full speed to the westward, racing in com-
pany for Cape York, with oidy about a dozen icebi'i'gs
in sight. After midnight, having run sixty miles from
the Hrown Islands on a west by nt)r!h course true,
we sighted the pack, the temj)erature of the water
falling from 3(1" to 33°, and at I.3(> a.m. we steamed
into it. The j)a<-k con.'iisted of open sailing ice from
one to three and occasionallv four feet in thickness :
theiloes iirst met with wire about two hundred and
iifty yards in diameter luid very rotten. In order to
shorteii the passage between the Hoes, it became
necessary to force many of the smaller pieces aside,
but bi'vond tlr momentary check of speed and the
scratching of the ice along the >hipV .>i(h'. little trouble
^f
88
V()YA(JK TO TIIK I'OI.Mf SKA.
.Inv
''III H||l'i|'|
! '
\v;is expL'iioiU'c'd. Occiisioiially wlicii ii tliickcr picci'
llitm usual refused to succunih to the blow, it Avould
liaug evenly balanced across tjie stem, and being forced
ahead in front of the shi{), collect other j)ieces, until at,
last the accunuihitiou of ice would lender it lu'cessary
\o stop the engini's and turn the ship's bow in another
direction. When we had I'uu thirty miles through
tlu! pack (HI the same course it gradually became closer
and the Ihu's lartxer, measuriiiL!; a mile and more in
diameter. obliLMn<j a disciiminatinu selection of the
be.st leads to be made from the crow's nest. Only
one iceberg, and that a small oni', was sighted at this
part of the j)assage, but it proved a most valuable
mark when steering through the tortuous |)assages,
towards the more o|)en water-spaces.
Looking from the masthead over a boundless extent
of ice-covered sea, with no ju'omineni objects to direct
a course, it is very easy to run olf from the desired
direction without being aware of it. A t'om|)ass in
the crow's nest materially as.sists the look-out man on
such occasions.
The lanes of watei- lying in a north-west and south-
east direction, ])ermitted a raj)id advance, and by 8 P.M.
of the 2J:th we had run sixty miles through the |)ack.
'I'he ice was never close enough to cause anxiety
that we might be (\uight in it, but still kept me fully
employed in choosiuL!; the best U'ads from the crow's
nest. The heaviest ice met with was not more than
four feet thi^'k, with humnuH'ks rising some six feet
above it. After 8 P.M. the channels between the Hoes
became decidedly brt)ader and more numerous, denot-
ing that we had passed through the thickest part of
.1! I.
TiiK 'Mim)i,K ici:
v.)
soiith-
8 I'.M.
pack.
iixii'ty
fully
crow's
e tlum
ix tcH't
.' lloos
leiiot-
)art of
tile harrier, so 1 ^'radiially altered eoiirse to llie iiorlli-
ward, sleeiiii!j- (lireel fbi- Cape York. AlU-r iiiidiii.ulit,
■re ill lalitiide T'.*" !>' N. and loiiuiliide
when we w«
;()' W., 1 10 miles to lli
stward oi' ihe Devil's
It.)" ;>u W ., 1 UMiiiles lo llie wesiwaro o
'riniinl), llie iee was so open that flie ollieer of llio
watch could see every ohstacle Ironi the hiidu'e, and
was al)K' lo direct the shi|) without the help of a look-
out man in the crow's nest. Odicers soon ^'aiii ex-
|)erience in the.se matters; the heavy pieces that oii^dit
to he avoided lloat InLrher out of the water than the
liuht ice which may be struck with imj)unity, and are
consequently readily distiniruished. If, however, a
mistake should be made, the shock is sulUcient lo
l)rin<; nervous people on deck, and cannot be good for
the chronometers.
Throughout the night the temperature of the sea was
-■Jr, and young ice formed on the surface to about the
thickness of half-an-inch, showing the ])artial freshness of
the water. Towards morning, Ix'fore tlie daily thaw liad
set in, the opening out of the pack during the calm was
reiideied aj)parent by the many water-sj)aces from which
the young ice had been drifted off, like di'oss I'rom
((iiicksilver, leaving a ])ure unbleuiished surface which
reflected the luill and rigging of tlie shijjs with such
di.>^tinctness that it was diflicult to determine where
the object and the reilection met. The sharp crackling
sound maile bv the vessels as thev tore their way
tiiroiiiih the plates of younir ice, was rather aureeable
than otherwise when contrasted with the dead silence
around unbn)ken oven by the hundreds of little auks
{j\/('i'(fu/it.s all,'), swinnning close alongside ; these little
i)irds, scattered in large Hocks o\er the water-spaces,
J
OTi
40
VOYAGE TO THE POT-AI? SEA.
.Ttl.Y
|li!ij!||:
liliiil ill;;::"'
hi
m ';
I Ml) iNilM'!
' 'I 111 ilMl.'ll
III I
r(!f'iis('(l to move iiiilil iilmosl toiiclu'd by tlio sliips.
tlu'ii tlicy (lived in coinpiiny, pro])elliiig tlieniselvos
imder Avater with great rapidity, all the individuals
in a flock eominj? to the surface aLjain at the same
moment. In the ' Middle Ice ' we observed a bear, a
walrus, two species of seals [Phoca (jrcenlaudu'd) and
[Phocd hlsjndd) ; amongst the birds many fulmars, a
few ivory gulls ( P(i(/oph{la eOurnea), a single dovekie
{Urhi ijnjlle\AomQ guillemots, and a diver {Coh/iii/m,s).
The water was filled with a quantit}' of diatomaceous
brown flocculent matter, which was also incorpoi-ated
in the floes ; this dark substance, absorbing the sun's
rays, exerts a very potent influence during sunnner
in the destruction of l^affin's Bay ice.
At 9.30 A.M. of the 25th we sighted the high land
{U)out Cape York, and at 11 o'clock, when forty-five
miles directly south of that ca])e, we were fairly in the
'North Water,' having passed through the 'Middle
Ice ' in tliirty-four hours. Although we made so suc-
cessful a \oyage through a locality justly dreaded by
ex])erienced ice-navigators, the conclusion must not
be hastily arrived at that a similar passage can always
be commanded. Had a strong breez*? set in while
we were amongst the ice we should have been beset
in the pack and, at the very least, delayed for several
days.
By good observations iit noon we found that w^e
had been set eleven miles to the west-north-west ;
but our frequent change of course, and adopting the
most western of any two leads otherwise equally good,
may have uiven rise to some of the dilTerence between
the i)()sition by loaand that bv observation.
Jin
isrrj
(•APR YOHK.
41
ILms ITciiidricli hv'un^ desirous that liis hrotiicr-iii-
liiw slioiild be allowed to join tin- Kxju'ditioii, and think-
ing it also inijxn'tant that tiu; lv>kinio who live between
Cape York and 1*011 Foulke should be iiware of our
presence, I direeted Captain J^te|)lienson to proceed to
Cupe York and endeavour to eomniunieate with thi'
natives. Our consort was speedily hidden from oui-
view behind ii vast asseniblaue of the hirgest sized
beriis, which were thicklv crowded to<'ether off the
c;5pe. Many of tlieni were table-topped and therefore;
newly launched, most of them were aground. The
majority of these icebergs doubtless derived tlu'ir oi'igin
from tlu great glaciers of Melville Jiay, and had been
drifted to their present position by the current sweep-
ing towards the north and westward, whi(;h continues
its course as far at least as llartstene Jiav at tlu;
entrance to Smhh Sound.
Captain Stej)lienson found most of the Eskimo,
including Hans' bi'other-in-law, absent from the settle-
ment, which was situated on the eastern side of a bay
to the eastward of Cape Y^ork. While the ' Discovery '
was secured to the land-ice inside the grounded ice-
bergs, a female n-dy\\\v.\\(.V(>ni>d(m nionoceros), with a
well developed tusk, was killed, also a great number ol
little auks. Seventeen nativi's, iifteen nu'U and two
women, with three dog-sledges, visited the ship. They
appeared poorly clad in lioo(U'd seal-skin jumpers, jmd
bear-skin trousers cut olfat the knees; wearing nothini!'
underneath, they showed a broad margin of body be-
tween the two garments. On beini; given some of the
n:
U'whal they ate it m great ([uantities, tearing the raw
llesh asunder with their teeth Their hair was lonu and
T^
12
\(»\'.\(;i'; TO Tiir: i'oi.ai; si:.\.
.Il l.V
iii;itt»'(l, l)Ut llicii- splendid row of even while leetli
siio\ve(l to iidviiiiliiLTc oiil (if tile selling' ioi'iiu'd I)y llie
ll;il ii»;ili()u".'my-(()l()iii'ed visnuc 'J'liey were uiveii ;i
,sii|)[)ly ol' luciCer iiiiitclies, biseuits, ]<iiives, cVcc, wliieli
iippoaivd to please tiieiii greatly.
Ill the ineanlinie the 'Alert ' |)roeeeded on her way
towards the C'ary Islands, tliere to establish a de|)nt of
provisions and deposit a boat lor nsi' should we nn
ibrlnnalely be laled to retreat south from i^niilh Sound,
I' 'IHIiiPII
,1) ,im. '
.11 < Mil ill
liljill I' (i|- AUlllr liKiill.ANDKiix.
■ ill '^0:
.ill
i:il
leavinj? our vi'ssels beliind us, as two out of three
e\|)editions which pri'ceded us had been forced to
do. Expectinu' to find a southerly current in theofTmu",
where there were few ici'l)ero:s, I steamed along llu'
Greenland shores within a couple of miles of the land
and inside a Iouli' line of innnensi' berus lvin<x an'round
parallel to the coast, trustino; to tin; <j:rounded ice to
pt)iiit out any hidden dangers. At this season little
snow I'emaiiied on the IJevcrlev Clills. ihouuli bi'hiud
Is:
mkvi:i:m:y cuffs.
tlicin tlu' ini:iii(l icc-
(•ii|» was visible, ainl
down I in' r:iviii('s
hotwccii tlu! (l:irl<
Willis or rocK iriMiiy
uiiicicrs iiiadc tlicir
Wiiy into till' >*'':i-
Si'vcral oriht'.-ic gla-
ciers showed eoii-
>i('iioiis medial and
lateral iiioniiiies,and
some of tlie smaller
ones that had not
reached tlio sea, tei'-
niinal moraines. A
lew patches of red-
colonred snow a|)-
|)eared in shelteivd
hollows, hnt it rc-
(|uired the aid of a
u-li
iss to distmuuish
Av
I'llow lichen
Ui'owinu' over the
cliHsi^nive a brilliant
colouriiii; to* some
of th(! I'ocky slopes.
Myriads of lillK'
auks were brcedinu'
in these c
lifi;.
they
Hew from the water
to the land with
tlu'ir ehecks pulled
if!
PI' ':'
T ' ' '' '
iiiiniiiiii;!
hill smii
'>N>l
i /!'«!
'"m,
I II
II
V(tY.\(lK TO TMK Vn\.\\\ SKA
.hl.Y
out iuii most liidicioiis niiiiiiKT, from llie lood coiiliiiiu'd
ill tlu'in, whii'li IJicy wt'iv carrviii^ to tlk-ir youiij,'.
A lew IccIjukI gulls [Ijirns leucopterns)^ wctl' .seen
IHTclu'd on thu IxTgs, and this was the most northern
locality where we recoj^nized that s|)eeies. Guillemots
were abundant, a large loomery being visible near Cape
Parker Snow. I liad intended to i)ass inside of Conical
Koek, but as wo a|tj)roaehed it towan'.s midnight, a
strong northerly wind sprang u|> and enabled me to
make sail, beating to the northward. On standinir oH'
the land at G A.M. of the 20th, when iwi-nly-four miles
south-west of Conieal Itock, the wind dit-d away, and
observing that the current was appari'iitly carrying us
rapidly to the south, I jn'oceeded again under steam.
It was calm all day, with thick fog. At noon, when
we nui.st have been fifteen miles south-west of Wol-
steiiholme Island, tlu' surface temperature rose to 40''.
In the afternoon, not knowing our exact position
with 1-ej.jard to the Cai'v Islands, and not wishiiiL? to
|>ass them, I stopi)ed, and while waiting for the fog
to clear, got a sounding in three hundred fathoms
with no bottom ; using an ordinary deep-.sea thermo-
meter, the warm stratum of water at a ti'ini)erature of
about 39° was found to extend to a de[)th of sixty feet ;
at a depth of twenty fathoms the temperature was 29°,
Doubtless had a reversible thermometer been used wo
should have found an uuderlviuLi; warmer stratum.
%.■ >7
The ' Discovery ' sounding in thirty-two fathoms near
the Cary Islands obtained a. temperature of 32° at that
de[)t]i, but this was probably duo to local causes.
Towards evening the fog cleaivd and we found our-
selves liftoen miles south-east of the Carv Islands. The
,Hi
is:r.
(AliV ISI.ANK.*
4.')
' r)isooverv ' \v;i< olncrvcd ^;l-^l ;i|)|)r«>Mcliin;.' lis fnmi tlic
ilirfitioii {){' (":i|M' York. At ini(liiiL''Iil we ufrr jiloii)!-
sidr <»r ilic iii()>l soiilli-i'Mslcni isl;iii(l, .•111(1 imm<'<li:it»'ly
coiiimnircd l.iiidiiiL! ;i d('|)nl ol' '),('»(►<> r;ilii.ii>i. 'I'lioc
U(»idd lijivc hrcii more coiiNciiiciil if |il;n'cd mi Nditli
IIIIiIh-iImikI Isliiiid Ol' nil lli(> iiiiiililiilid. Itllt T \v:is
iMiicIi jifniid of till' I'lskiiiio liiidiii;^' iiiid |)liiiid<'iiii«.' tin-
depot, liclorc Ieii\iii;j' Di.sco I left :i iioficc tor (';i|)t;iiii
Allen YouiiL', or iiiiyoiu' likely to follow our foot-
ste|>s, statiiiL' thill it wiis my intention to form this
stiition on the wcstein is];md of the C'iirv ltoiij), where
:i |):irty from Admiral Austin's ex|)edilioii in IS.')?
landed and eiH'cted a cairn. IJiit on coiisich'rint: the
probahly exhausted condition of a paity of men re-
treatiiiL^ southward from ])erha|)s the iioi-lhern part ol"
>^iiiith S)und, I decided to alter its destination, and to
place it as near as ])Ossil)le lo the liiii' of retreat. A
c-
cordiiiLjIv Jiavinji selected a convenient position on the
east end of the south-east island, llii' provisions and a
l)0:lt
weiv 1)
ilacod
ui a <-revic(!
of tl
le roc
al)o\('
th
wash of tlio .sea or pressure of ico. AiKjtJier paper and
a few letters wei'e jilaced in a cairn on the summit of
this i.slaiid. which attains an altitude of about CUO feet.
Numerous rounded fiiiLnnents and ju'bhles of red siMid-
st one are strewed over the to]) of tlie island, wliicji is
composed of a red-cohnired ifiieiss (lip])inLr at a very hij.di
aiiLile to tlie west. Eider ducks, with their l)rood.s of
downy duckliuLTs some four or live days old, were swim-
miiiir about in the Halt water. A larm* colony of bur-
^fomasters(Z.(/;v/.v 7/a?yc//.s') were nesting on some bright
green ledges of a steep chfF; one of our party, having
taken oil' his coat and shoes, climbed up to the topmost
w
4(i
\(^^ \(ii: ro tiiI'; I'(H,.\|{ si;.\.
II I. \
Miiilf'
'H \,
m
11 i ifii
Icilijcs !iii(l broiiLilil down two iic'iily full rcjillu'i-cd
yotmii- OIK'S. l''lo\\t'iiii!j' |)l;iiils were sc'inly, tin- inosi
roiis|)icii()iis l)i'iii<i llic yclluw-hlossoiiicd Ptitiiitllht, (\>r/i-
li'tii'iii Djl'icind/is, /'(ii'tii'i'f iiiitHcitiili^ :iii(| ;i hralni, ;dso
;i crcciiiiiir dwiirf willow. 'IViiccs of foxes Mini \)\\\v-
iiiiu;iii were ol)S(M"V('d.
Tl Wiis liiLili WMtcr ill the Cary Islmids jd)oiil 5 a.m.
of llic 27lli. Tlic ciiiTciit IVoiii iiiidniLilil iiniil :! .\..m..
llic first li;ilf of tlic llood-lidc, set to tlic iiortliw;ird, :il
.*) A..M. it w'iis scttiiiL'' towiirds llic iiorlli-ciist, ;iiid from
4 to () .\.M., when \\v left, it set to llic soiitliwiird. 'J'liis
jiLM'ccs with the sii|)|)os('d set of tlu' ('Ui'i\'iit the prcNioiis
ni«,dit, when we were soiilii-wcst of (.'oiiicid Kock, the
Jiitfcr |):irt of the llood-lidiil-slrcimi riiiiiiiiiu- to the
soiithwiird instead of sclliiiu; to thi* iiorthw.ird. 'Hie
' niscovcry." stccriiiji one slc.-idy course from C';i|)('
York, :iNo r.xpi'riciict'd ii ciiri'i'iit wiiich .set ihc ship to
the south and west.
Near the many irebcri^s stranded on the shallows
jihout the Cary Islands, the ten'iperaliire of the
surface water fell from 40° to )U.'/, hul imme
diali'ly "we left the iee behind us, .steeriii<^^ towai'ds the
(ireeiiland <'oast for llakluyl Island, it ro.se a^ain to
riS" and 40°, a:Lrreein<i; with the observations of the
previous day. (Joupled with the native re|)ort that the
sea near Ilakliiyt Island is never eompk'tely frozen
over durinii; the wiiitei', this hiiih tem|)eraturc is re-
mai'kable.
The 27ti) broujxht us a continuatioii of ealm clear
weather. The two ships, one in tow of the other, pa.ssed
in the afternoon bi>tween Northumberltind and llak-
liivt Islands. A soundiiiLT in mid-channel <xave 100
NOIMIII Ml!i:i.'l,\\l> iSl.AMt
rullioiii-" willi rtick\
l)i)t!(>iii.
Tl
IC WMttT
to
IC
4
11'
'II
('-
-iV
".a
ir
■d
1
V-
,'/
)0
■"•>,
\v;is lii('r;illy l)l;it'k
wilii llic imilliludc^
of lilllc ;iuk>, :iii(l
'iuillcinots wcri' lui-
iiH'rt>ii>< ; lIu'iT is :iii
iiiinu'iiM' hrccdiiiji
stiitioii of llu'sc birds
oiifhciioi'lli-i'iisl f;i('i'
(»f Iliikliiyt IsIuikI.
Tlu' p.'ISSilJiC hotWL'l'll
these two islands is
very imposiiiL!;; on
either si(h' rise al-
most pei'peiidieiilnr
elills of siuidslones
to :i lieiLrhl of not
less than 800 feet;
Deal' to the sea sti'iitii
of a hrisiht red sand-
stone predominate,
hut. liiu'lier ii|) tlu'
elills these alternate
with lin-ht yellow,
the whole series
di[)pinL>' ;it iin niiule
of 4" or 5° to the
south. 'Hie summit
of Xorthmnberland
Island being covcreil
with ;m iee-cap.
-^^11
w mK
^imm
I'ii'.'
=5
2^k
K'li^^^^H 1 M^^^^^H
'
iji
:
&k«^jLg
vSS^^v ^^■^^BhF ' ' 'i
::;;*rP|',i'
L iBl;
w^
4S
VOTAfJE TO Tllli: POLAR SKA.
July
i'l'^'!'!;:';
'1.: I
iHi!
lli::, |,
"I l«i
■"""i'iiii
I'i''
J!! II! '"'liiliii
I' I" ■
ll|lii«lliii|l|'i
I
'I'll-
:?!!iii
k
"''1:.
IIIK
hi
, ,:i;ii
ill''
])rcsciits a miniature of the Greenland mer de glace ;
innny small glaciers descend its flanks, and one of
liirge i^ize occii))ies its north-west face. The a]ipearance
of these descending ice-streams presented a marked
contnist to the warm-coloured snndstone clifls, whilst
the effect wns enhanced by the bri<>'lit izreeii vcfjetation
growing on the ledges, fertilized ])y the ])resence of
innumerable sea-birds.
Passing InLrlcfield Gulf we noticed the ice stretching
from shore to shore cast of Cape Ac^hmd, completely
closinijj it ; but Murchison Sound and Whale Sound
were clear. The Prince of Wales Mountains on Elles-
niere Land, and the coast range from Cape Faraday to
the north were distinctly visible.
To the northward of the Cary Islands, and as
far north as Cape Alexander, the icebergs were of the
largest size, the majority of them being table-topj)ed.
The ' Discovery ' measured one rising two hinidred
and ninety feet above the water-line.
Cape Acland on its north-western fjice presents an
escar]mient of bright red rock, probably sandstone, and
the cliffs of the mainland as far north as Sontag Bay
sliow similar coloured horizontal stratification. Early
in the morning of the 28tli we were clog-^ to Cape
Alexander, and passing Sutherland Island at a distance
of abont a mile and a half. This island, composed of
a rough-grained sandstone, appears to have been worn
down by glacier action : I estimated its height at about
300 feet. Cape Alexander is a noble headland pre-
senting a sea fiice of probably 1,400 feet ; it is separated
from the main by two enormous glaciers, which, de-
scending on either flank, enter Ilartstene Bay on the
1875
CAPl-: ALEXANDl-n.
49
one side, and oii the otlier submerge directly beliind
Sutherland Island. The cape is coni])osed at its base
of a light yellow sandstone, horizontally stratified, mid-
way a band of dark eolumntir basalt rests upon this
sandstone, juid above that ])oint, intercalated l)eds of
basalts and sandstones continue to its summit. This
same formation extends along the whole south side of
Hartstene Bay.
VOL. I,
E
"^.
f
|i!lil : !
50
VOYAGE TO Till'] POF.AIl SKA.
Jl'LT
111;
III!
"I
! Ml! r
" illi !
SI h"
i;.:;ii
!
iiii m
,!,:: !:
lllll
I ■ i
It;
''il ■Hiiiili
!!ili;i||ll|i|ll'f
||i;|a,H:i:l|fi|
'hi
Ell
'i,: "!•
iji"
CHAPTER IV.
HARTSTENK HAV — M'.'K-nOAT COVE — ' POT.AIUS ' WINTEU-QUAKTKRS —
LITTLKTON ISLAND — ETAH — CAPE ISAHELrA — PAYER HARBoCU —
CAPE SABINE — HAYES SOUND— ALEXANDRA HAVEN — TWIW GLACIER
VALLEY— ESKIMO MIGRATION.
While we were steering close under Cape Alexancler
a breeze sprang up from tlie northward and retarded
our progress, ])ut by 7 A.M., of the 28tli, we were at
anclior in twelve fatlioms on the north side of Ilart-
stene liav. Tlie ancliorage I selected was a bay on
the southern side of Sunrise Point, a very convenient
halting-place, but only fit for use while northerly or
easterly winds prevail. Generally speaking the shore
was bordered by an ice-foot, but this was not (juite
continuous ; a number of detached heavy pieces of
ice, the remains of hinnmocks formed during previous
gales, lay aground in thirty feet of water, pointing
out the shallows, while many rocks, both above and
below water, studded the shore. A stream of some
volume, which drains tlie valley lying north of Dodge's
Mountains, empties itself into the bay.
The red gneiss, wliich forms the basement on
which rest tlie sedimentary strata and basalts of
Foulke Fioi-d, forms the shore-line from the settlement
of Ktah. Northwards at Ca])e Olilsen and Life-Boat
Jf[.T
IS'/f)
LIFE-BOAT COVK.
lit on
ilts of
tnnent
-Boat
■^
<4
Cove, and as far as we could see inland, granitoid and
gneissoid rocks prevail.
Tiie total absence of drift-ice between Cape York
and Smith Sound, and the fact that a strong northerly
wind was brinuinif no ice down, led me to conclude
tiiat the main pack to the northward had not yet
l)roken up, and that we had arrived at Ilartstene Bay
at the most opportune time, wlien the ice at the head
of Baflin's Bay had drifted south and before the
northern ice, which breaks up later hi the season, had
drifted through Smith Sound. A few days subsequently
the sea between Littleton Island and Cape Sabine,
which now [)ermitted free progress, Avas so ice-encum-
bered as to prevent any vessel crossing the channel.
As a northerly wind prevented our advance except
at a large exi)enditure of coal, I took the ojiportimit-"-
to \isit Lif(3-Boat Cove, where a ])art of the crew of
the U.S.S. ' Polaris ' whitered hi 1872-73. I was hi
hopes of finding the ])endulum and other instruments
which were necessarily abandoned on the retreat of
the party, in small boats, to the south.
Leaving the ships at anchor, and accompanied bv
Commander Markuam, we started in a whale-boat.
Owing to the strong breeze and the ebb-tide rimninfr
to the southward we had considerable trouble in
rounding Sunrise Pohit, l.Mit after passing Littleton
Island the wind fell, and the fog ascending, gradually
gave place to a line bright afternoon. There is so
little depth of water in Life-Boat Cove, that the
' Polaris ' must have grounded close to the entrance
of the bay. The land being quite free from snow, we
had no difficulty in finding the locality where Polaris
E 2
Ml
i : 1
I
Ill II I 'l,lilil!lll;|l
Ji Iji 'ii;.;
■ill liliiii
iillil Mi'-ii
'■" iilli'!
I 1
!lli
{!l{!llll||i
if
I'll! iii!;; i
!!«]
H iiljll:
|!i| '"'liiiiilpi
I III ,i:iliii' I'ij
ll ilillli I i'llH
ii'l
I hi
Ml
^|;ii'..
''iHi.l
'IHiiiMt
'■iiiii,'
Ii'
ll'l
52
VOVAdK To THK I'OF.AK SKA.
Jilt
House stood. Xo |)art of tluit slructiiro remni'.ietl
intact, hut pieces of wood, cases, ein|)ty tins, bits of
clothing, worn-out sea-boots, seal-skins, and a lietero-
j^eneous collection of odds and ends, marked the site.
The cairn mentioned by Dr. liessels and ^\r. Bryant as
the depository of instruments and boxes of books was
readily discovered, but contained nothin*^. Numerous
small caches containing seal and walrus-meat were
scattered over the small peninsula and near the
site of the house. Apart from each other, and with-
out .any protection, we found four or five boxes, each
covered with heavy stones to prevent the wind moving
them, and liaving the lids secured on by a ro|)e.
Hesides one tlierniometer, unfortunately not a self-
registering one, they contained scrai)s of skin-clothing,
old mitts, carpenters' tools, fdes, needles, and many
small articles of the greatest use to the Eskimo, but
a])i)arently they had not been disturbed since the
abandonment of the place. A few books were found,
which were afterwards forwarded to the United States,
but no j)endulum, transit-instrument, or chronometer.
Three skin-boats left ou the shore, weighted down
with stones, were in fair order. The smallest one was
taken for conveyance to Cape Sabine.
On our return we landed at Littleton Island, and
on the S.W. brow erected a cairn, and deposited a
■notice containing a short account of the movements and
])rospi'cts of the Ex])edition up to that time. There
was not a particle of ice in sight from a high station
on Littleton Island ; but our sportsmen who roamed over
the higher grounds on the main land re|)r"ted that
they had distinguished an ice blink to the northward;
Jll.Y
1875
LITT I.ETON ISLAM).
on
wliicli news [)i()vc'(l to be correct, for ice was met tlie
next day at a distance of tweiitv miles from the island.
A ^rcat number of eider dueivs were nesting on
tlie north sliore of tlie large^^t island; the ducklings
were about a week old, but several nests still contained
c<f<rs. With the rising tide the current between the
islands set towards the X.E. The time of high and low-
water agreed with the observations of Dr. Hayes. In the
record left on Littleton Ishuid I stated that it was my
)f Smith
mtentiou to cross direct to the west shor
Sound, and to proceed northward along that coast.
Anticipating that it might be difficult for a sledge-
))arty to connnunicate with the island, I added that
should the cairn not be visited by a |)arty from the
Kx])edition before June 187G, our des|)atches would
be found on Cajjc Isabella, and that I hojjed to leaM!
records at Caj)e Sabine, Dobbin Bay, Carl Hitter liay,
and Cape Bellot.
Durhig my absence from the ships, ex|)lorations
were made in various directions. Ca])tain Stephenson,
accompanied by several officers, explored Foulke
Fiord to ascertaui its suitability as a winter-harbour,
and visited the valley at its head, where Di-. Haves'
expedition obtahied as many reindeer as they could
consume. Our sportsmen wi're, however, not so for-
tunate, for after a very arduous walk amongst the
valleys at the base of Brother John's Glacier, ascend-
ing it and crossing its face to the other side of the
valley, only seven reindeer Avere seen and one secured.
The settlement of Etali was visited, but no natives
were there; it consisted of three stone hjloos^ and
one hut roofed o\er with canvas spread ou spars.
54
VOYA(}|-: TO TIIK POLAU SKA.
Jri.T
'ilil
Hill 'I'MIII
11 1' I Ull'l
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Many relics from tlie 'Polaris' were lyiiiff about, such
as clotlies, pieces of books, ice-cliisels, fish-liooks, and
bottles. A lame amount of seal and walrus-blubber
was cached in tlie neighbourhood. A dog-sledge made
entirely of bone, with runners ingeniously constructed
of pieces of tusk of the walrus, was found hidden in a
cleft of the rock; it was of course not intcn'fered with.
Ari'ows were found in the Eskimo huts and in the
neighbourliood.
The remains of munerous ancient settlements arc
scattered along the shore between Jensen Point and
the village of Etah ; the sites are n; -rked by enormous
quantities of bones lying around, which speaks forcibly
to the animal wealth of this neiglibourhood. It would
be dilficult to assign any definite age to these remains,
but evidently Port Foulke must have been a favourite
and productive station of *he natives for a long course
of years, licindeer and wah'us bones were the most
prominent in these kitchen-middens. It was remarked
that all the bones of the deer which contained marrow
had been split, the crania had been broken in through
the front of the skull, and sometimes the base had
been knocked off, in order to render easy the extrac-
tion of the brain. Eemains of seals were very abun-
dant, with bcjnes of foxes and hares, also thousands of
the sterna of little auks.
'J'lie clirTs on both sides of Foulke Fiord present
bold escarjaiients, and are a continuation of the strata
which form Cape Alexander.
These formations, which consist of various coloured
sandstones abounding] in ri[)})le marks and inter-
bedded with traps and basalts rest imconfornuibly
;|! 1!'!'?
Jrr.r
isrr)
iiAirrsTENJ': day
55
on giu'issoid rocks*, aiul luivc a tliickiio.ss of about a
thoiisaiul feet. T'lifoi'timatcly no fossil oi"<^aiiisins
were loiiiid, but a j)i('(H' of coal was picked u]) not
far from the head of the liord. Jud^in}jf from their
appearance, Captain Feilden is of opinion that these
strata may be an extension of the Miocene de[)osits
of Disco Island and the Noursoak reninsulu.
Ilartstene Jiav is the best winter-station on the
Xorth Greenland coast : its shores are washed bv a
warm current comin<i from the southward, whilst the
|)rojecting promontories of Cape Ilathcrton and Cape
Olilsen deflect the Polar current to the other side of
the sound. Owing to the narrowing of the channel
at the entrance of Smith Sound the velocity of the
tidal currents is greatly augmented, and even in winter
large water-sj)aces are kept o])en. The moisture and
warmth imparted to the atmos])here by the uncovered
water moderates the climate in its vicinity to some
extent, and consequently we find in the neighbour-
hood of Hartstene hay a land comparatively well
vegetated and a great abundance of animal life. As
Tort Foulke can be visited yearly from the soutliward
in all but very exceptional seasons, it can be recom-
mended as an important base if further ex])lorations by
Smith Sound are hereafter undertaken.
On the morning of the 2()tli the shij)s crossed
Smith Sound imder sail, with a northerly wind, steer-
ing direct for Ca])e Isabella. The snow-clad coast of
Ellesmere Land was verv clearly defined, the black
headlands, sejiarated by glacier-fd-ed valleys, standing
out prominently from the white background. Cape
Sal)ine, which is formed of a red syenite, differs much in
Ilf ■■ I'
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Voy\(iH TO THE POI.All SKA.
.Trr.v
colour fVoin tlie lioadlaiid^ iioitli iiiid soiitli of it, jiirI is
very coiispicuoui^. I luid iit iiist (lelcrmined to send
tlie ' Discover V ' direct to Ca])e Sabine, tliere to estab-
lish a station, while the 'Alert' erected a cairn at
(\\\n' Isabella ; but considering it important that all
the officers and men in both slii|)s should be acquainted
with the exact position of each cairn and dei)6t of
provisions, I kept the two vessels in company. How-
ever exact the description of the ])osition of a dej)6t
may be, it is extremely dilficult for a traveller
during the s])ring to find a cairn or mark which has
been established during the ])eriod of the year when
the land was whollj' or ])artially free from snow. The
choice of a spot on which to build a cairn that can be
n^idily found by a stranger is not so easy a matter as
maybe supj)osed. In the present case it was rendered
more difficult in consequence of the necessity of guard-
ing against the de|)redations of the Eskimo, who are
said to wander round the shores of Ellesmere Land,
To obtain this safety for the jn'ovisions destined for
our travellers it was necessary to hide them away in
cK^fts of the rock at some distance from the cairn
which contained directions for finding the depot.
As we approached the w<.'stern shore a snowstorm
Avorked its way over the land from the S.W., and
reached ns just j's we anived at the cape. In order
to take advantage of the fair wind, and the snow-
storm preventing those on board the ' Discovery' seeing
the position chosen for the cairn, I ordered Captain
Ste])henson to })roceed to Ca[)e Sabine. Commander
Markham accompanied by Ca])tain Feilden hmded in
a small bay on the south side of the extreme point of
187*')
CAPK ISAMKLI.A.
0<
tlu' C'iipi'. After :iii cxtR-moly rough scraiiiblL' iij) oiu-
of I lie gullies, M ciiim was erected on the outer .spur
of Ca[)e Isabella, 700 feet above the water-line ; a
cask for letters and a few eases of preserved meat being
hidden awaj' on a lower point, about ')()0 feet liigh,
magnetic west of the cairn. Cape Isabella is formed of
a fme-giained grey granite and a coarse orthoclase
granite, the diflerence in colour between these two
rocks being very distinctly shown on the face of the
cliffs. While the party was on shore the surf on the
rocks prevented the boat remaining at the landing
place; on their return at 5 r..M., we i)roceeded to the
northward, the weather continuing misty with snow.
At 4 A.M., of the oOth, having run thirty-eight miles
by the ])atent log, we stopped steaming and waited
for the weather to clear. During the night we liad
passed a quantity of loose [)ack-ice which obliged us
to keep well out from the coast. At 5 A.M., we ob-
served the 'Discovery' close to the land, with five or
six miles of heavy pack-ice cutting us off" both from
her and the shore. Although the land was hidden by
fog the atmos])here at sea Avas clear and the w'eather
calm. Perceiving a likely-looking channel leading to
the westAvard, Ave steamed toAvards it, but before
reaching the entrance it closed u]) and prevented our
advance. At 9 a.m., an hour before high-Avater, on
the slackening of the flood or north-ruiming tide, the
ice opened considerably.' Observing that the ' Dis-
covery ' Avas not moving, Ave bore into the pack, and
at 3.30 P.M., succeeded Avith a little trouble in gaining
the land and securing the ships in a convenient harbour
formed by a group of rocky islands. These Ave sup-
.']Q
1 ■; !i.
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58
\oYA({i; W) Tin-; i'ulak sea.
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1 1 III nvu.i:\
])uso(l by our laliliult' iit noon to ho near Lecontu Island,
but on tlie atniospliorc clearing wu found that wo woro
int^ido of llrovoort Island and witliin two miles of
Ca])e Sabine, wliicli had boon placed on the latest
cliart ton miles too far north. During our eleven
hours' run from Capo Isabella, half the time with an
ebb and half with n llood-tido, wo wore set by the
current ten miles to the southward.
The ice through which wo had ])assod consisted
jnincipally of old heavy lloos, ton to twelve feet in
tliickness and a hundred yards to a quarter of a mile
in diameter. Intermixed with those woro others of
one-season ice, so rotten and honeycombed as to show
that they had not recently boon subjected to hojivy
j)rossure. Scattered amongst the pack-ice were several
icebei'gs, neaiiy all of which wore Hat-topped ; very
few of them had altered their lino of flotation since
they first so))aratod from their ])arent glaciers.
Fhiding no bottom at a depth of twenty fathoms
close to the shoie, the ships were secured by liawsors
to ice-juichors biniod in the level ico-foot or ice-ledge
lining the shore. The northerly wind kept the ships
from swinging broadside against the land, they wore
thus ready to start at a moment's notice. The up[)or
surface of the ice-foot was twenty to forty feet broad,
dependent on the inclination of the laud, and level
with the high-water rise of spring-tides. At low-water
the rocks at the base of its vortical sea-face were bare,
leaving a cliff about ten feet high, which when the
tide was out could only be ascended through one of
the slippery passages cut by the water running down
from the land. The harbour, which was named after
I8:r,
I'AYKI! IIAnTWniK.
50
•css-
Licutcnant Julius TiiytT, tlu' (listinjinislicd and .siic<'(
fill Arctic traveller, is a most convenient waitin;i |»]ace
for vessels attenH)tin<r to ijroceed northward hv f^niitli
{^ound. lirevoort j'iland, a svenitic loek which attains
an altitude of al)o! I fjOO feet, shelters if completely
from seaward. Sinlknecht Island and a lon^' ju'iiin-
suIm id)oiit 150 feet high protect it from the southward.
The harboui' has three entrances, one from the noith-
ward and two from the southward, one of which is
sure to be clear of ice, whenever the outside pack,
driven off shore by a westerly wind, would permit
navigation. Tlie channels being naiTow ju'event llie
entrance of large floes ; but, owing to the great deptli of
water, icebergs readily enter and have to be guaided
against,
During the afternoon Ca|)tain Stephenson and tlie
crew of tlie ' Discovery ' were engaged landing a depot
of provisions, consisting of 240 rations, for the u.se of
any sledge-party that might be travelling from the
north towards Littleton Island. This depot was
])laced on the peninsula that forms the southern pro-
tection of the harbour. A cairn was built on tlie
summit of Brevoort Island, in which a record paper
was subsequently placed.
Having established our provision dej)6t and record,
T felt very desirous of ascertaining how far the water in
the middle of Smith Sound would j)ermit our advance
to the northward. The ice in the oding being fairly
open, I accordingly started with the two ships at
10 P.M., just before high-water. We had far greater
trouble in pushing our way through the pack than
when we passed through it the previous morning, and
SFT
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(10
V(^YA(lE TO THE I'OLAU SKA.
Jri.v
dtiriii!' tlic inl('rvt'iiin<r lime tlic ico-.strcjnn lind doubh'il
ill width. Tlic ,shi|).s, coiiscquciitly, did not arrive in
the {.'K'iir Wiitor until piist I A..M., of tlu! P>lst. Follow-
ing the edge of the pack but not entering it, wo
wore led ofV to the N.K., for about tweiity-fivc miles ;
it then bent round to the S.E., and eflectuallv eut us
oil" from the east coast of Greenland. •
It was now perfectly certain that our .struggles
with the ice were about to connnence, and I had to
choose whetlier to force our way thi'ough the pack or
to iidvance along the eastern or Avestei'ii shores of the
Sound. A middles i)assage through the heavy ])ack
(h'iftiiii,' to the southward, thi'oimh an eve.-nari'owiiiij
channel, was quite out of the question, and Dr. Kane
had fully proved the impossibility of forcing a |)assage
along the exi)osed coast-line eastward of Rensselaer
Harbour. I theivfore decided to |)roceed to Ca])e
Sabine, and endeavour to force our way along the
Avestern shore.
On returning to the Avestcrn side of the strait, a
heavy snowstorm quite obscured the land and ])re-
vented my selecting the best water-channels through
the pack. While waiting for the weather to clear, the
shi])s were made fast to the lee side of an iceberg, Avhere
the faster drifting surface-ice kept a ])ool of water
clear. After ])assing an hour in this position, partly
fi'oin the wind shifting and partly by the iceberg
turning round, Ave found ourselves being foi-ced
against the side of the berg by the pressure of the pack,
and A\^cre obliged to make a hui'ried retreat. For-
tunately our ice-anchors slipped out easily, or we should
have been entrapped.
ism
UF/riJItN TO I'AYKK HA IMtori;.
01
The wind htiviii"^' now IVcslit'ncd IVoni tlic N".l'].,
and tlio flood-tide piwcntiiif; the 'wo. drit'lin^f t.o llu^
southward, thciv was ovei'y |)rol)iil)ility lliat iIk; pack
would close tojii'thcr and cndan},'cr our reaching' the
shore. Accordinj/ly I pushed on throujili tiie snow
and mist rathei' blindly, but was rewai'ded by suddenly
fuidin<if ilijit we were; back at the entrance of Payer
Harbour, and befoi'e noon, as I tliouglil at the time,
^\■o had l)idden a h)ng <.,'0(Ml-l)ye to the main i)a«'k.
Durinur the af'lerjioon a stroiiLj north-westeilv wind
and ebb-tide, which carried the ice and iceber<js
quickly to the southward, completely im|)risonc'd us;
but we had tin; satisfaction of knowiii;^ that a lar_L'e
water-space was formin*;- fai'ther to the north, ready foi-
our use bv-tind-hv.
%■' •
The north-westerly wind contiimed ihrouj^diout
August ], and cond)ined with the ebb-tide brought the
ice so fast to the southward that at 9 A.M., there wus
no longer any water in sight in the middle of the
strait fro)n our look-out hill. The only pool left was
in the bay innnediately south of us, which was kept
oi)en by the slight ^vesting in the wind. To the north-
ward, between our ])osition and Jiache Island, not a
single ])ool of water was to be seen. For a short
time, during the strength of the flood or north-running
tide, both the surface-ice and the icebei-gs Avere carried
to the northward ai^ainst the wind, Avhich was blow-
in
ff with a force of "2 to 5 ; but from its ha\in<f 1
ess
eflect on the deeply immersed icebei'gs, they were
moving slower than the i)ack.
At 11 A.M., in a hea\y squall, the 'Alert's' iee-
anchovs slipped out of their beds in the ice-foot, and
liiiiiiir'i''^
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62
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
August
obliged us to let go the bower aiichoi- in twenty-one
fathoms, the ship drifting into tlnrty-five fathoms.
In the evening the weather cleared up and enabled
me to get a few bearings with a theodolite from the
sunnnit of Cape Sabine, some 1,200 feet above the
sea-level. The Victoi'ia and Albert Mountains, fifty
miles distant, showed very distinctly. The <'hannel
between Ellesmere Land and Bache Island was seen to
be nearly closed by a grou[) of rocky islets ; but tliore
was appareiitly a northern passage on the westward
side of the island. The islands were named aftei*
Lieutenant Carl Wey])recht, the commander of the
Austrian discovery shi[) ' TegetthofT.'
The wind A\as so strong, and my feet so wet and
cold after climbing v.^ the rugged snow-clad hill-side,
that I was forced to content myself with a sketch and
the most im])ortant bearings. Not ;i particle of water
was to be seen, and the sea between Cape Sabine and
Littleton Island, Avhich four days ago was free from
ice, w.'is now completely blocked.
The hiu'h water full and chanf]^e was found to be at
11 h. 56 m., rise and fall about twelve feet.
The red syenite rock forming Ca])e Sabine and
the islands in the neighbourhood of Payer Harboui*
is sterile and barren to the last degree. During the
three days we were detained tliere, although i)arties
from the ships ex])lored the whole of the inunediate
neighbourhood, very little animal-life was seen. Six
narwhals wei'e on one occasion observed j)laying in the
harbour, and a colony of glaucous gulls were found
nesting in a steep cliff on Brevoort Island. A few
eider ducks' nests were obtained, and a large seal {Phoca
ll!l
1875
ICIMIOAT.
(;3
Six
Ixirhdta), the oo-sook of tlie Green landers, was shot,
also five eider ducks, one or two dovekies, and a
little auk, a contrast to the lar^e amount of game
obtainable at Port Foulke. Along the margin of the
shore of Payer Harbour were several I'ings of stones
marking the summer tents of Eskimo. The fragments
of bone scattered about these s])ots were lichen-covered
and triable, showing that they were of great antiquity.
Ti-aces of a more recent \isit were, however, observed,
and a liar])oou was found with a tip of wrought iron.
The ice ramaining closed during the 2nd, and the
light wind holding out no prospect of its opening, I
thought it advisable to occupy the time by sending a
party round Cape Sabine to ascertain the nature of the
coast-line. I also wanted to see whether a twenty-foot
ice-boat could be carried on an eight-man sledge, the
only one we had ready. The boat having been lashed
on to the sledge, I started with Commander Markham,
Lieutenants Aldrich and May, and five strong men,
but after advancing about a mile, in consequence of
the boat being too long for the sledge and the ice
encountered being extremely rough, we gave u|)
the attempt and returned on boi,rd. The fifteen-foot
boat, which fitted the sledge, was dragged easily
enough, but it was then too late in the day to start
again, as I. was in hoi)es of the evening's flood-tide
opening up the ice, and permitting an advjince wiih
the ships. The evening, however, turned out calm
with a fog, !uid the ice remained closed.
A light southerly wind on the 3rd, giving hoj)es
of a change hi the ice, kept me anxiously looking out
from the nearest hill-toj). At 9 a.m., the north-running
rar
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{•A
VOYAfll': TO THE rOLAU SEA.
AVGIJST
tide havijio: begun to move the ice from tlie ]iarl)our,
and sliglit cracks ap])eannfr in the offing, botli shi])s
were got under sail, in order to be ready to ])usli i-ound
Cape Sabine immediately a ])assage opened, wliicJi I
fully ex])ected would be the case. When starting, being
only a shi])'s length from the shore, we calculated on a
friendly j)iece of ice acting as a bufler between the
vessel and the rocks; but at the important moment
when it3 services were required, it sli])ped from the
ship's bow, and the tide cari'ied us so close to the
shore tliat the heel of the rudder touched for a
moment. By the time we were clear, the cracks in the
ice instead of o])ening had closed, so the ships were
kept tacking back and forwards, until high-water,
after which, giving U]) all further iio])e foj- the day,
Ave beat back to our old quarters. The constant
tacking, and the close shaves between the two siiij)s,
as we passed each other, as well as with tlie rocks
occasionally, created much excitement and did good
to all. In the evening the wind freshened from the
southward and kept a s])ace of water about half a mile
in diameter clear of ice near the mouth of the iiar-
bour, but off Cape Sabine the ice still remained closely
})acked.
The wind freshening from the southward on the 4tli
drifted a quantity of small pieces of ice across to tlie
noi-thern side of the harbour, wliei'e the shijis were
ancliored, and jH'evented our connnunicating with the
shore except by hauling a boat over the ice. At
2 A.M., while I was anxiouslv watcJiino" for and ex-
])ecting a change to occur with tlie ebb- tide, the ice
off Ca])e Sabine began to move, drifting to the east-
iUil till'
1875
HAYES SOUND.
d')
ward out of Hayes
Sound. A signal was
immediately made to
start imder sail, get-
ting n]) steam in the
meantime. By the
time we were outside
the harbour, a clear
channel had opened
round the cape, and
with lightened hearts
and nuich rejoicing we
ran quickly along the
land. Our passage to
the northward still re-
mained blocked by im-
penetrable ice ; so that
whether we pleased or
not, an advance could
01 dy be made in a
north - westerly direc-
tion up Hayes Sound.
Very heavy ice was
piled up more than
thirty feet high againsl
the extreme northern
point of Cape Sabine,
indicating recent se-
vere pressure from the
pack. The ice met
with between Elles-
mere Land and Bache
VOL. I.
P
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III' 111!''^!
I
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66
VOYAGE TO THE POLAlt SE\.
AUOT73T
Island had evidently been formed in the neighbonr-
hood during the ])revioiis Avinter, and being in one
luibroken sheet, the water must have been clear of
ice-pieces Avhen the autumn frost set in. It was now
very rotten, had lately broken jiway from the sliore,
jind Avas only waiting for a westerly wind to c^arry it
off into Smith Sound.
As we advanced under the lee of the Lmd the
wind died awjiy, and rendered steam necessary. We
then ran quickly to the north-west along a slightly in-
dented coast-line, passing Cocked-liat Hill, a very (con-
spicuous landmark, situated on an island close to the
shore. The hills on the nortli coast of Ellesmere Land
are abru])t and migged, i-ising to a height of 1,200 to
1,500 feet, with glaciers hci'e and there descending to
the sea. By a.m., we ari'ivcd at tlie end of the water-
chainiel, wliere the ice stretching com])letely jicross the
strait efrectually l)locked any fuither advance. Eani-
ming the ships into the rotten ice, we endeavoured
to form temporary docks ; but as fast tis we ])ushe(l our
way into the iloes their sides s[)lit u]).
After waiting about an liour, a narrow channel
opened close along shore, tln-ougli wliich a jnisli was
made with only an inchoi- two of spare; Avater under the
ships' keels. We then gained a large water-s])ace which
carried us a few miles farther u]) the gulf, but then
the ice, hx'ked in by the Weypi-ccht Islands, formed
a baiTier. To the soutliAvard of us we had opened a
long liord, entirely free of ice, running to the S.W.,
about eight miles in depth and three and a half in
Avidtli. Snow-capped hills upwards of 2,000 feet high
with stee}) clills formed the shores of the liord ; glaciers
1875
ALEXANDRA IIAVl-N.
67
oct'upiod tlio liiuliLT ])ortioii of each of the valleys,
but none of tlieni appeared to reach the sea. Tliis
fiord is protected from the entry of any larj^^e floes by
an island at its mouth, to which was uiven tlie name
of the Thi'ee Sisters, from a similar number of con-
s])icnous conical hills risiii*,^ from its base,
Wisliin<' to anclior at the entrance of the fiord
ready to take advantaire of any movement in the outer
ice, we sounded our way towards tlie shore, o])j)osite
to a larjxe valley, ofl' which I ex])ected to find a bank
with sliallow water. Instead of this we obtained no
bottom Avith fifty fathoms at a distance of fiftv vards
from tlie beach. Not finding an anchorage, Ave re-
trained our course about a mile to a small rock}' bay
scarcely large enoiigli to receive the two ships, situated
at the extreme end of one of the s})urs of the Prince of
Wales Mountains. I named it Alexandra Lfaven.
As soon as the shij)s were secured, the sportsmen
started in all directions to explore the neighbourhood.
In the vallev off which I liaxl endeavoured to anchor,
Avas found Avhat in these regions may be termed a
richly \i'getated plain extending about tAVo miles back
Iroiu the coast, and fronting two \ alleys each contain-
ing a ghicier. 'riies(> glaciers coming from op])osite
directions abut the one against the other, maintaining
a constant sti'uggle. 'J'hosi' amongst us who were for-
tunate enough to visit the locality. Avliich Avas named
Twin Glacier Valley, Avere Avell re])aid by the grandeur
of the scene.
The summer thaw of ice and snoAv had produced a
broad Avatercourso doAvn the valley, Avliich at this date
Avas occupied by a ])elluci(l stream of some twenty
I . ;
IT : ■ I
k : !' ,1 i
68
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
AC0U8T
1 '
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yards ill wicltli. The flortiwas siir))risiiigly rich : large
patches of Epilobluni lalifolkun were growing on sand-
banks ill the dry watercourse, its hjuidsome deep pink
blossoms a|)])eariiig somewhat out of keeping with the
Arctic surroundings. Recent traces of reindeer and
musk-oxen were very numerous. Had we remained
any length of time in the vicinity we should doubtless
have obtained a fair supply of game ; as it was, only
It, \r
TWIN GT.ACIKR, HICIIANAX SOUND.
three hares were obtained by the men of the ' Dis-
covery.' It being a fine afternoon the ships' companies
were allowed to wander over the hill.-i : one of the
crew, miscalculating his ])ower of walking in heavy
clothing, liad to be carried back on a stretclier. A
report having sjiread that musk-oxen were in the
vicinity, the appearance on the beacli of the men bear-
ing their sick comrade gave rise to tlie iinjiression on
board the ships tliat an animal had been shot. When
1875
15KSET IN HAYES SOUND.
00
the truth was discovcivd, the t'eeliiij^' of disn))|)ointmeiit
at not obtaining fresh ])rovisions considerably lessened
the s^nnpathy which would otherwif^e have been be-
stowed on the invalid.
Gneiss and syenite seemed to be the prevailing
rocks along the northern shore of Ellesmere Land ;
but at an elevation of 1,500 feet a dense thin-bedded
limestone was found cap])ing the rocks. In the Twin
Glacier Valley, the stream ex|)osed strata of argilla-
ceous limestone and fine-grained sandstone. No fossils
were obtained, It the locality is geologically interest-
ing, as the point of jimctiu'e between the sedimentary
and granitic rocks on the western side of Smith
Sound.
During the night of the 5th the ice o])ened up a
lead to the westward, and by 9 A.ii., the end of the ebb
tide, the passage was quite clear along shoi-e. Having
a fine breeze from the S.W., the ships made a stern-
board out of our small harbour, and rounding Three
Sisters Island, off which was a rocky bank with shallow
water, stood along shore to the westward. In hopes
of obtaining a steadier breeze I kept close to the edge
of the pack, but the wind shortly died away. At
2 P.M., we had adxanced under steam beyond the eastern
group of rocky islets. Finding that the strait took a
turn towards the westward, I endeavoured to force our
way across it to the northward where a pool of water
WMS to be seen near Point Koldewey, from which we
were sepanited by a quantity of rotten ice. This I
attempted to force, but after an hour's ramming, we
were brought to a stjindstill and thoroughly beset by
ice in such a decayed condition that it was unsafe to
{ 1
ra
VOYAGE TO TIIIO POLAR SEA.
Auouat
ili':
100'
Iwm
i
.1
ilWi
poTMiiit men to cross Iroui one ship to the other.
During tlie night the wcjitlier was cnhn, and the ships
drifted sh^wly backwards and forwards at the mercy
of the tidal current, but in the main in an easterly
direction.
On the 6th, with tlie ebb-tide the shii)s drifted
to tlie southward towards tlie o])en water near the
sliore. In the exjjectation of obtaining a good view
of the strait, Captain Stephenson and I landed by
dragging a boat over the ice to tlie water. A number
of tlie officers also went to explore the neighbour-
hood, but kei)t within sight of the ships in case of
being recalled. Landing at nearly low-water we had
great difficulty in climbing u}) the stee]) and slippery
side of the ice-foot. From an ascent of 1,500 feet we
could not determine the continuation of Hayes Sound,
owing to the interposition of rocky islands ; but by
the trend of the mountain ranges the sound or fiord
may be assumed to run for a long distance to the
westward. There is ap])arcntly no water connection
with the opening north of Bache Island, unless a com-
munication exists far to the westward. On turning
to the eastward we had the great satisfaction of seeing
that the ice at the entrance of the soinid was (blearing
out, and that there -would soon be a clear water-
passage between Cape Sabine and Ca[)e Albert. We
accordingly hastened back to our boat, deciding to
push to the northward along the east shore of the so-
called Bache Island.
Our sjiortsmen only obtained a single ptarmigan
{Lagopus rupestins)^ the first specimen procured by us
in Smith Sound. Insects were not uncommon,' the
\\\h
1875
INSECTS.
71
mosquitoes being ])arti('iilarly ainioying. Two species
of butteiilies, a CoIui.h and an An/t/nnis, two kinds of
moths and a liumble-bee [Uoinhns), were eaptui'ed.
Tlie shores of the (x)ast where we landed were studded
with ancient Eskimo dwelHngs, mnnerous caches, and
marks of summer tents. The bones of a large wliale,
no doubt Bdlcena luysticda.s^ in pieces over five feet
long and a foot broad, had been used as rafters to
one of the igloos or dwelliiig-j)laces. Numerous
bones of the musk-ox, seal, walrus, and narwhal were
found.
I regret extremely that our short stay prevented
our ascertaining whether Hayes Soinid is a channel
leading to a western sea. The flood-tide certainly
nui to the westward inshore ; but Lieutenarit Parr,
a very careful observer, re})orts that on two occasions
when the ship was stationjiiy and he in charge of the
deck, he observed the ice in the otting setting to the
eastward with the flood-tide. This may have been
occasioned by partial winds or an eddy tidal current.
Although Ave saw no seals in the sound, yet the nume-
rous remains scattered about the old Eskimo dwellings
show that they have been obtained in large numbers in
this locality, and this is seldom the case in an inclosed
bay, where the water is more ready to freeze than in
an open channel. Certainly a large colony of Eskimo
frequented the neighbourliood at one time, and we
may conclude that they travelled from the southv/ard.
It remains to be ascertained whether the route was
along the clacier-lined shore on the western side of
Baffin's Bay, or by a more protected inlet to the west-
ward of Ellesmere Land.
Vi
H
" . 'i:
t.ltl T Is
I'l'l ,mJ\
m'.
i '!ii El'!«:^'
i<
isi M
iij,,. :i
ill
lilll'
72
VOYAGK TO TIIK TOLA II SEA.
AuouaT
Wliilc \vaitin<^ for the return of Cajitsiin Stephenson
a sounding was obtained by the ' Discovery ' in forty-
two fathoms, tlie niininuun teuiperature of the water,
between the surface and that depth, being 29''*5.
This low temperature was afterwards confirmed by
a hirge number of independent observations.
In Smith Sound, with the exception of a surface
film heated during summer, the temperature of the
sea water, like that in the Antarctic Ocean, always
remains colder than the melting point of freshwater
ice. The icebergs floating in a medium of abont 29*** 5
can therefore only decay in those parts exposed to the
rays of the sun, and consequently remam table-topped
cubes of ice, with the original surface of the parent
glacier floating n])pennost, nntil they drift into Baffin's
Bay. There, meeting with water at a temperature
above 32**, the submerged portions melt rapidly, and
the icebergs, by frequently altering their line of flota-
tion, as they de(;ay nnequally, assume the fantastic
shapes so frequently depicted in views of Arctic
scenery. It is remarkable that no icebergs were met
with in the western waters of Hayes Sonnd. This
indicates that there are no discharging glaciers on its
shores. Probably the Prince of Wales Mountains
protect them from the moist south-westerly winds.
1875
LEAVE HAYES SOUND.
78
CHAPTER V.
RE-EXTER SMITH SOL'XD— CAUGHT IN THE PACK — ESCAPE — CAPE VIC-
TORIA — FRANKLIN PIERCE BAY— WALRUS — NORMAN LOCKYEK ISLAND
— CAPE HAWKS — WASHINGTON IRVINO ISLAND — DOBBIN BAY — DO<i-
SICKNES3 — PERILOUS POSITION OK SHIPS — ROUNDISO CAPE FRAZEK.
Shortly after noon of the Ctli, as soon as Captain
Stephenson and I had returned on board our respeo
tive ships, we made sail with a southerly wind blowing
off the land, and ran back to the eastward out of Hayes
Sound and Buchanan Strait. As we advanced, the
water-channel between Ellesmere Land and the i)ack
which rested against the south shore of Bache Island
widened considerably, until off Cape Camperdown only
a few patches of detached floe-pieces remained, Avhere
three days previously not a ])ool of water existed. To
the eastward there was much water with an ice- blink on
the horizon pointing out the position of the main pack.
Arriving off Cape Albert, a great iiuml)er of icebergs
and heavy pieces of ice were observed, either lying
aground on a bank or collected together l)y eddy
ciu'rents. The wind dying away, steam was raised, and
we advanced quickly to the northward with light hearts,
looking in vain for the channel re])orted to run between
Capes Albert and Victoria, dividing Bache Island into
two. We satisfied ourselves that no channel exists there.
Ill
h «'':;il
Wli
lie *''!'■
III ii; .
I
VOYAdM TO Till'; I'OLAl! SEA.
ArnrMT
Skirt iii;4 I lit' |);ick, we were led jiwiiy from I lie laiul
to sibout six miles cast of Ciipo Victoriii l)ut llicri' the
('due trended round to tiie south-enst. \W retnicin^' our
course u i'ew miles Icould have entered a watci'-channcl
near the shore of ]iache Island ; there was also a narrow
hut very tem])tin<^f chamiel about two miles lon^ leading
diivctly towards Cape Hawks, with only six or eight
miles of ice, aj)|)arenlly o|)en between it and a large
water-space stretchini^ out from the south shore of
Grimiell Land,
It was now 10 P M., the ilood-lide was commencing
smd the weather was calm. The ])iick, lately o])ened
and driven to the eastward by the westerly wind, was
sure, on the sul)sidence of the ])ressurc, to work its way
back again and in all j)robal)ility would close u]) the
water-channels. The northern sun, shining brightly
and castuig a dazx.ling glimmer on ice and water
alike, rendered it dillicult to distinguish the most oj)eii
channels; but with such a ])i'osj)ect of reaching the
mainland few could resist the tem])tatioii ; so at the
risk t)f being beset, I ])ushed on towards the north
through the ])ack, But, by the time we had reached
the end of the two-mile channel the ice had closed
everywhere, our retreat Avas cut off and we were
caught in the tra]i.
No choice was left me but to secure each ship ui a
notch or bight in the heaviest floe that I could reach,
and wait for a change either favourable or otherwise.
No one of the floes was sufficiently large to ])erniit the
two shi])S being docked near each other ; neither did I
deem it advisable, surrounded as we were by numerous
icebergs, so to imprison the ships.
Is7.-,
TA IK J I IT IN TIIK I'ACK.
'5
AI'tiT scc'iiin- tliciii si'cuivd ill ji liiirly liir^c pool of
AViitcr, I Iiiid just I'litcrcd my cMbiii wlicii llu! ollici'i* of
tlu' Wiitcli followiiin' iiu' stilted tliiit the ice was closing
ill on cvcfv sidi'. On icacliiiiij; llu' (\vvk I found tluit
the 'Alert' was surrounded by the iei' and driftinii;
towards an icebiTu' only u qiiafler of a mile distant.
KSi<jjiialliii,ir to Captain Stej)henson, 'Take care of
ieeberir,' he was able to haul the' Discoverv 'a hundred
yards ahead ; but his ship was then similarlv eaiiuht in
the ])a('k, and immovable either by mtinual labour or
by steam j)ower.
Both ships were immediately jjrepared for a severe
nip ; the rudders and si*rew8 were raised, the boats
turned inboaid, the yards braced fore and aft, and all
possible precautions taken.
At first the 'Discovery' was a])parently in the
more daii<^erous ])ositioii ; but shortly the ice by
^vlleeling round bi'ouuht the 'Alert' directly in the
path of the iceberg, against the side of which the inter-
mediate surface ice was piling itself up as it forced its
Avay ])ast it. Had the pax-k consisted of oi'dinary
ice from four to six feet in thickness, which would have
crumbled up against the side of the berg, the danger
would have been even more imminent, but the great
thickness of the floe to which the ships were secured
])roved their safety; for on its tidvaiiced edge reaching
the iceberg, it withstood the strain without splitting and
for the moment checked the main drift of the ])ack.
Very shortly afterwards the accunuilating ])ressure in
the rear, exerthig its force alternately on either side of
the floe as it hung unequally balanced across the; face
of the berg, broke off large pieces, some of them one
70
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
ArorsT
lit' .'
»'!:
hiiiK.lred feet in diameter. These being heavy enough
ill themselves to withstand a considerable pressure,
became collected in front of the iceberg, and formed as
it were a point of lieavy ice sufficiently strong to divide
and split up the floe, and to act as a buffer to fend
off the ship ; this it did in our case most successfully.
As the ship began to heel over with the increasing
pressure, and officers and men working alilvc had given
the last haul to the screw j^urchases, and Avhen there
was nothing left for anyone to do but to look on
as calmly as possible waiting for what might happen,
the corner of the floe s])lit off and the shi]), mnidst a
collection of debris ice, slid past the side of the berg
without damage ; the ' Discovery,' hidden from view
on the other side of the iceberg, reading the signal at
the masthead ' All safe.' The shi])s were then secured
by ice-anchors to the lee side of the iceberg, where
the faster drift of the surface ice left a small pool.
The next thirty hours were spent in constant
struggles with the pack, the ships being moved from
the shelter of one iceberg to another as circinnstaiices
rendered necessary ; and, owing to the unsteady wind
and the variable tidal currents, we were never quiet
for more than an hour at any one time.
Had I allowed the ships to drift with the ice we
should have been carried to the southward deeper into
the ])ack ; there was therefore no alternative but to get
up full steam and be prepared to take instant advan-
tage of every change that might occur in our favour.
The ships were seldom separated for long, and now,
as on many other occasions, they assisted each other.
The ' Discovery ' was handled in the most masterly and
daring manner combined with great judgment, qualities
1875
CHRONOMETERS.
77
essential in Arctic navigation. She, as well as the
* Alert,' ran not a few hairbreadth escapes. Once in
particnlar when in following ns through a closing chan-
nel between an iceberg and heavy floe-piece, before
getting quite past the danger she was caught and
nipped against the berg, fortunately without suffering
severely.
Having less beam than the ' Alert,' a finer bow and
an overhanging stem, the ' Discovery ' proved to be bei<t
adapted for forcing her way through the i)ack. Being
backed some distance astern to allow sjmce for the
debris ice from a former blow to float away, and for
the vessel to attain sufficient distance for the accumu-
lation of momentum Avith which to strike a second,
when forced ahead at her utmost sjjeed she would
break her way into the ice for a distance of about
twenty feet before the force of the blow was expended.
We found that floes u]) to four feet in thickness and in
a soft state, melting not freezing, might be charged
with im])unity ; thicker or harder ice had to be left
alone.
It sj)eaks well for our chronometers, and tlie
manner in wliich they were secured, that tlieir rates
were little affected by the frequent concussions on this
and on many after occasions.
It nuist be obvious that the connnander of an
Arctic ex])edition can obtain but little rest dui'ing the
navigable season. In ice-navigation one false decision
may imperil the chance of farther advance, he tliere-
fore can dej)ute his resjionsibility to no one, but nnist
be constantly on watch himself. Fortunately for his
health an Arctic; season lasts only for from three to
six weeks.
VOYAfiE TO THE rOLAIl SEA.
August
'^^ ?? M^
On the morning of the 8th the weather was cahii
and the ice ap])eared inchned to open, but we made
little advance until the ebb-tide commenced about
4 A.M. After a large ex[)enditure of manual hibour,
gun])owder, and coal, we succeeded in ])ushing both
ships into more open ice and, by skirting the lai'ge
Hoes as much as ])ossible, we foimd ourselves at 7 a.m.
in a large pool of water with oidy one neck of ice
between us and the shore Avater off Cape Victoriji.
On an-iving near the bari-ier I found, to my dismay,
that the floes were closing in as fast as we broke away
a ])assage. After half an hour's rather anxious work,
the two shi])S frequently charging together, and the
' Alert's ' ruddei"-head being s])i-ung when necessarily
going astern fnll speed, I observed that the ])oints of
a tm-ning floe would pi'obably offer a chnnce of esca])e
in another direction. Making a hasty flank movement
we ari'ived just in time to take advantiige of the bnrrier
when iit its weakest, ;ind willi oiiecluirue toiretlier, we
broke our way tln-ough and escaped, everyone Iicaitily
gltid to ho in free watcn' once moi'e Avitli no more seri-
ous daniiigc tiinn spi'ung rudders. Within half an lioiir
there was not a single ])oo] of water in, the four miles'
brendtli of ice through wliicli we liad lately struggled.
The pack, fortiuiately for us, consisted generally of
ice from four to six feet iu thickness ; yet there were
uiany heavier floes whicli must have been from twelve
to twenty feet thick ; the suiface of thes(> consisted of
a, series of mottled ice-knolls of a l)lue colour, the
melted down remains of former hummocks, denotiug
ufreat a<xe.
Previous to our de])arture from England, although
1875
THICKNESS OF ICE.
■9
ice of a similar description had frequently been met
with, it was popularly sup|)osed that it was formed only
in protected bays whicli seldom cleared out. One
Arctic authority asked me to endeavour to ])lace it
beyond a doubt whethei- it were possible for salt-water
ice to attain more than a mean thickness of seven feet ;
and Dr. Hayes, one of the latest ex])lorers and an un-
doubted authority, was ofo[)inion that ice soon reaches
its maximum thickness by direct freezing ; he states,
indeed, that he had never seen an ice-table formed by
direct freezin*; that exceeded eiirhteen feet in thickness.
I was, therefore, naturally astonished to see such large
quantities of heavy ice.
Now that we know that the ice in the rohir Sea is
upwards of eighty and one hundred feet thick, it may
be as well to draw attention to the re|)orts of former
navigators on this subject. Sct)resl)y describes the ice
met with in tiie Snit.sbei'ufen seas as ' cousisliiio- of •(,
single sheet of ice, having its surface raised four or six
feet above the level of tlui watc^r, and its base depi'cissed
to the de])th of ten to twenty feet beneath,' tlnis mak-
ing it twenty-six feet in thickness. Sir Edward Parry,
hi 1820, Avlien he had advanced to the westward of
Cape Hay in MclvilU' Island, and was in fact at the
entrance to the Polar Sea, remarks Avitli astonishment
on the thickness of a piece of a regular floe, wliicli
when measui'ed by Captain Beechey was found to be
forty-two feet.
Sir Robert M'Chu'e rej)orts the ice off the mouth of
the Mackenzie Piver and on the west coast of Banks
Land as drawing from forty to lifty feet water, and
sometimes even seventy-eight feet. All tlie voyagers to
80
VOYAGE TO THE I'OLAR SEA.
August
Ml
liilp
Behring's Stniits report the ice as being from five to six
feet high above water, which would allow it to be at
least thirty feet in total thickness. Admiral Sir
Eichard Collinson mentions liaving observed a floe
aground in forty-two feet of water. And Dr. Kane met
with ice aground near Kefuge Harbour, Smith Sound,
' more like icebergs than hummocks,' one of which
'rose perpendicularlj^ more than sixty feet.'
On our arriving off Ca])e Victoria, Princess Marie
Bay was found to be full of one season's ice, evidently
formed there during the previous winter and not yet
disturbed. It was very rotten, and in many places the
surface water-pools, separated by winding passages of
apparently weak ice, had eaten their way through the
tloe to the sea below.
The main pack and the stationary land ice met
each other two miles north of the cape and prevented
our farther advance. The ships were therefore secured
at the floe edge and Commander Markham landed to
ascertain the state of the ice on the opposite side of
the bay. A very thick fog and snowstorm, however,
obliged him and Captain Feilden, who accompanied
him, to retin-n unsuccessful. At Cape Victoria the
cliffs are formed of grey limestone resting on a massive
conglomerate. The few fossils procured there were of
Upper Silurian age.
During the afternoon flood-tide, which set to the
westward into the bay, the pack closed in and the thin
decayed ice, now covered with thick wet snow, became
so pressed together that at one time the ' Alert ' was in
great danger of being forced on shore. Captain
Stephenson keeping farther off shore, was able to force
m i
187.")
FKANK.MN rilORCE RAY.
81
of
ne
iu
tin
ce
a ])assage for the ' Discovciy ' into more o])oii water.
As the ebb-tide made, the ice in Princess Marie Bay
commenced to drift to the eastward, and water-cliannels
opened between the 'Alert ' and the coast of Grinnell
Land ; but the ' Discovery ' being then surrounded by
ice we were delayed for a short time. In crossing the
bay the ice was moving so ra})idly tliat tlie ' Discovery,'
although within a quarter of a mile of the ' Alert,' was
frequently unable to follow her througli the same
channels.
Entering by the western side of Norman Lockyer
Island, both shi])s were safely secured to the land ice in
Franklin Pierce Bay, on the southern shore of Grinnell
Land, at 10 r.M. The ice in the bay being one season
old and very rotten it denoted that there must have
been clear water along the shore when it Avas fi-ozen
over the ])revious autunm. To the eastward the pack
being tight against the coast effectually prevented our
farther advance.
Franklin Pierce Bay woidd afTord fairly protected
winter-quarters, but so far as we coidd judge there is
little game ])rocurable in tlie neighbourhood.
At 4 A.M. of the 9th I landed half a mile east of
Cape Hari'ison accompanied by Cai)tain Feilden and
Dr. Moss. A record was ])laced in a small cairn erected
on the spur of the limestone hills forming the west
sidt; of Franklin Pierce Bay, two hundred feet above
high-water level.
Observing the ice op(Miing in the direction of Cape
Prescott, the shi])s steamed out of the bay, passing
between Walrus Shoal and the nuiinlaiid, but after
clearing the shoal a large level Hoe prevented any
VOL. I. (i
VOYACI': TO Till': POL.Ul SKA.
AffifST
fiirtlier ])rogross. The av father was] x'rfcctly calm with
a tein|HTatui'e raii,nin<^" fVom 32° to 3{)°.
Whik' stH ui'iiifi; \hv sliips at the odj^e of tlio floe
three walruses werc^ oljservecl Wu\<^ asleej) at a short
distance from us. Conunauder Markhani at once started
in a wliale-!)oat willi a har|)oo!i gun ; while another of
the ])arty made a short cut across the floe towards
the animals, willi a view of obtaining a shot if they
becanu! frightened and made off before the arrival of
tl;'. ' oat. Beyond occasionally raising their heads and
looking round, thev took no notice of our movements
a?ul |)t'rmitted tlie boat to a])|)r()ach to within a few
feci of them, when the largest one was easily har-
pooned, and llie oilier two hit by several bullets. The
latter, althougli they were very severely wounded, dis-
aj)peared into the water and were never seen again.
The animal har|)ooned was towed back and hoisted
on to the lloe. Its dimensions were, length twelve feet
six inches, girtli eleven feet six inches, tusks eighteen
and a half inches in length.
The flesh and blubber Avhen cut up filled five casks
of two hundred and fifty ])ound8 weight each. The
meat when fried was nuich ap])reciated by all of us,
and the liver was pionounced to be excellent. The
dogs made a hearty meal off the scra])s.
The ice remaining stationary, all hands turned out
in the evening on the smooth floe for a game of foot-
ball, the dogs, poor things, also being landed for a run.
Some of them l)eing harnessed gave the novices an
opportunity of ])ra('tising the art of sledge-driving.
With each dog pulling in a different direction the
startinuf was a ludicrtHis sight, and was seldom effected
1875
DOG -D1!I VERS.
cs;-
■"}
without the aid of a friend enticing the dogs on with a
])iece of meat. After struggling on for about lialf a
mile they invariably obtained their own way, dragging
their would-be-guiders through many water-pools hi
spite of the frequent application of the long hide whij)
which, in inexperienced hands, was more frequently
felt by the riders than the dogs.
:'he
us,
^he
lout
)Ot-
run.
an
1 the
;ted
AMATEUH IJOO-DHIVERS.
A sounding was obtained in forty-six ftithoms, hard
bottom ; the surface temperature was 32°, the minimum
temperature between the surface and the bottom being
29°-5. During the night, ice formed on all the water-
pools and remained unmelted in shady places during
the day.
In high latitudes, during the summer, owing to the
height of the sun above the northern horizon, the
temperature does not fall much at midnight. Conse-
quently the young ice does not form so early in the
U 1'
wmmm
m
Vli
:!:;
m^i
■1; ■
j) i;
I'::'
Hi!
»u"''ill
'"Ft
84
No^Adh; TO rill': i'oi.ai.' si:a.
Arui'sr
season iis it docs in Mel villi' Bay and oilier southern
|)osili()iis; 1)1(1 when once it begins to lorni. th<! sun
l)eiiii»" lowei' at noon it does not thaw so J'eadilv durin<i'
the day.
'I'he weather was |)rovokinL!]y calm dui'inj^ the lOtli
with liuiit rain t'allinu". In oni- neiuhbomhood the ice
remained perfectly still, although in the odinu" it was ob-
serN'cd to bcnioxinji" with the tidal curi'eiits. A second
alms was liar|)oone(l. which ^a^e seven more casks
f meat and insured the dou's beinii" well fed for some
w
o
time to come. During the enforced delay an o|)|)oi'-
tunity was taken to obtain a haul with the di'edge and
tiawl alouL!' the bottom, in a de|)lh of thirteen fathoms,
AV
hicl
1 |)l'o\'e(
1 to b
)e rich in animal
lif(
1
ivi' or SIX
species of ii, •! were obtained : nine or ten s|)ecies of
}[()lhis('(t \ /'Jc/ilitodi'riiHitti wei'c veiy numerous, and the
meshes of the ti'awl entangled many Comatulci' (Ante-
(/<>// E.^clii''n-htii). These beautiful ciinoids, closing and
o])ening their pinnules when exposed to the atmos])here,
I'eminded us of sensitixc plants ; EcJi'iniis drobacJiU'n,ns
Avas most abundant. The tangles came uj) ])erfeetly
covered, and it required nmnerous ])ai]'s of scissoi's
ling hands to clear them ])revious to
each di'scent ol' the di'cdge. The variety and I'iclmess
of the captui'es made us I'cgi'et that the ever-pressing
necessity of advancing northward whenever an opening
in the ice admitted, pi'evented us from nsing the dredge
more frequen
d
ana manv w
tlv.
On the 11th theu])])er clouds were ])assing from the
X.W., but situated as we wcj'e under the lofty t'liffs of
Cape Tj-escott, the weather was |)erfectly calm with fog
and a light rain. As we expected that (;alm Aveatlier,
•ST
'111
mi
ICC
ine
ms,
six
! c)i"
lU'
IIKl
.'IV,
[•tly
■<()]"S
to
U'SS
^111<J;
liiia"
iLi'e
the
of
lUT.
■n'
?l
%ni
i: u\ 4
't s
ff^ ?^
r^l
beji
boi
fres
bea
to (
Ba3
^vas
tOAV
Illl
recc
A f
>
slial
s
the;
thre
1875
N«)I!MAN LOCKYKll ISr.AN'P.
80
c'OiubiiH'd with tidiil movcincnt, would Iimvc opciuHl
tlio ice, tlu' dclav in our udvMiicc was taiitalixin*: ; and
Avith a lew the 'social baroTiu'lcr ' roiiiiiu'iiccd to tall
ra|)idly. I lauded witl> an ('X|)loriii<^' |)arty on Xonnan
Lockvcr Island to- obtain a, view of tlic ice in the ofl-
ing. It Avas with great diHiculty lliat we forced a
|)assa<re for the boat throu<^h the young ice which had
fonned in sheltered ])laces during the few |)re\ions
nights.
The low part of the island, for some oOU feet above
the present sea-level, is a sut'cessiou of raised beaches,
I'ising about twenty feet one above the other. The
rock, like the mahdand, is a conii)act grey Silurian
limestone. On the summit, about !)()() feet high, the
whole surface of the exj)osed rock is marked with ice-
scratchings in a north and south direction.
Many ancient Eskimo traces were found near the
beach with great quantities of decayed seal and walrus
bones ; they were ])a]ticularly ])lentiful near two small
freshwater ponds situated a short distance from the
beach.
Before we left the sununit the fog lifted suflicieiilly
to enable me to obtain a few beju'ings. Princess Marie
Bay was observed to be half clear of ice, juid there
Avas a large pool of Avater ofl' Cape Victoria, ''in none
toAvards the N.E. in the direction of Cape HaAvks.
In the offing there Avas nothing to be seen but ice. A
rec(nxl Avas left in a cairn on the sununit of the island.
A few broods of eider ducks Avei-e feeding in the
shallow Avater betAveen the island and "Walrus J^hoal,
the young birds being unable to fly. Three eider ducks,
three dovekies, and an Arctic tern Aveie shot. On
''m\
m
W
III
ii
IS'
*
If
'fJilli
8(;
VOVAdK TO TIIK I'Oi-AI! SI:a.
Ai (ii'sr
the isliiiid ii few cider ducks' iicsls wore rDiiiid coii-
liiiiiiiig c«.'^s still iiiiliiitclicd.
At 8 I'.M., soon iiftcf lii;4li-wut(!r, flic ice 1 ; to
set slowly to the south ward, und shoi'tly before mid-
night it opened sudicicutiy to induce me to mwki! a
])ush towai'ds thi' east. We succi'cdi'd in advancin*^
about hall' a, mile, wlu'ii the ice closed with tlie return-
ing ilood-tide and obliged me to secure the ships in a
very c'Xi)()sed |)ositi()n, one mile distant from the land,
Avliich was hidden from our view by a tliick foijf. As
the Ilood-tide increased ,in strength each shi[) '^vas
slightly nipped.
On the ice I'asing at high-water, observing that ii
crack was inclined to open, I telegi'a])hed to t)tain
k^teplu'iison to prepare to start ; but the 'I)is .y's
I'udder was found disabled, and before I could move
the' Alert ' to take her in tow the ice became stationary
again, witlu)ut having opened a channel. Foi-tunately the
damage to the rudder was slight and quickly rejjaired.
At 3 P.Af., the fog having cleared ofT, we had tlu'
satisfaction of jjereeiAing that although the tide was
flowing, the ice in the oHing was moving to the south-
ward, which denoted an oUshore wind.
At 5.30 !• M. a water-channel opened and ])er-
mitted ns to advance by keeping close to the land.
The clids rose to a height of 1,500 feet; the ii])])er
parts being i)reci|)itous with a narrow-based talus
extending from the water's edge to about 250 feet
u]) their front. Eastward of Cape d'Urville we crossed
a large bay, which Avas named after Professor G. J.
Allman, F.E.S., President of the Linnean Society. At
its head was a magnificent glacier reaching to within
187".
KVANs (;i,A('ii;i;.
ST
about Ji niilc of I he
Mc'ii, iianu'd iit'lcr Mi".
Joliii Evuus, F.K.S.,
tlu' rri'sidi'iit ol' the
Gt'olo}j;i('!il society.
Cui)t; lliiwks.
fonniiiti; the west
|)oiMl of l)ol)])in r>iiy,
is5is|H'('UillyruiolK'ii(l-
Ijiiidrisiuj^ tojilR'i<xlit
of 1,4(10 tW't. As we
rounded it the wea-
ther was extraordi-
iiiirilyeahii, and every
detail of tlie rich
brown of the rocky
cHffs was puri'ly re-
ik'cted in tlie now
broad water-cliainiel,
the sul)stance and re-
flection being ])ictn-
resquely divided by
the white horizontal
belt formed by the
ice-foot at its base.
It was, justly coni-
l)arable to the Eock
of Gibraltar. Such
was the smoothness
of the Avater that Lieu-
tenant May obtained
an excellent meridian
'k :
8S
V()VA(iK TO THK i'OLAl,' SKA.
Arorsc
1!W
1;|J|
l^f* ••■j, »'
*- s
iiltiludc of the siiii bulow the rule tit Uiidiiight l)y
iisiiifj llic I'L'llectcd sun in the sea.
After j)tisHiiig througli tlie clumnel bi'tvveen WiisJi-
ington Irving Island and Cape Iliiwks a large quantity
of ice and many small icebergs were met drifting with
the ebb-tide to the southward at the rate t)f about one
and a half miles an liour. Larger Hoes ni|)])ing against
Ca|)e Scliott and the east coast of the island ])revented
our ])rogress and obliged me to secmv. the ships to
some iceberi>s which were lying auround, about a
(quarter of a mile from the shore, in thirty-two fathoms
water. I had intended placing our second large depot
of three thousand rations, for use in the event of ii
com])ulsory retreat without our ships, on the island,
but the ])assing ice prevented om* doing so without
endangering the boats. Accordingly a small ])i-ote(!ted
bay two miles north of Ca])e Hawks was chosen.
There the depot and a boat were landed while a i)arty
visited the island to de[)osit a notice and obtain a view
to llie eastward.
On reaching the summit, about 900 feet high,
after a, laborious scramble u)) the stee]) hill-side, we
found two ancient cairns far too old to have been
erected by Dr. Hayes, the only traveller known to
have visited the neii>hbourhood. Thev were built of
conglomerate and rested on a similar base, which in
one case had l)ecome undermined l)y the natui-al crum-
bling away of the ro(;k, and in doing so had destroyed
ji ])art of the cairn. Lichens which had s|)i'ead from
stone to stone also proved that they were of great age.
They contained no records whatever. Fiom our look-
out the only water in siuht was in Dobbin Bay with an
\m
IS?.')
DOHHIX BAY.
iiilermodiMlc biii'ricr of ice. To tlic N.E. the ice was
close everywhere, l)ul liere and lliere iii tlie pack u
few disconnected jjools of watei- were ke])t open near
the slowly drifting icebergs. On Cape Hawks tlie
leceut traces of a nuisk-ox or reindeer were observed.
We could find only the very smallest traces of vegeta-
tion ; indeed, any but an enthusiastic botanist woidd
call the coinitry perfectly bari'en.
On agahi ascending the island at 7 a.m. I found that
the channel by whicli Ave had advanced was tightly
closed. Not a pool of water was to be seen in that
direction ; but to the northward the ice was fairly open
with only a few narrow necks of ice j)reventing our
reaching Prince Imperial Island. During the forenoon,
as tlie ici! in the bay was set by the ebb-tide to the
southward, a, partv was sent to clear away these necks
by blasting. Steaming u[) just l)efore the tide turned,
we succeeded in fonung our Avay through and (n'ossed
the bay without much trouble. On arriving at the east
side a large one seavSon's floe was found ])ressing against
the land near Ca[)e Ililgard. By cutting docks into its
northern edge the shi|)s wei-e secured about one mile
!S.E. of Prince Imperial Island and the same distance
from the mainland. Several exploring parties im-
nu'diately landed, reporting on their return that traces
of hares and ptarmigan and a richer xt'gelation than
usual had been met with in the valleys.
On each side of the bay preci])itous hills, I'ising
about 1,200 feet, and the very consi)icuously coloured
stratification, at an uniform incline of 20°, dipjHng to-
wards the N.\y., beai' the most sti'iking resemblance
to each other. The intermediate area ap[)ears to have
m
90
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
AUGCST
ri! I
t^'
*.\',
been (;iit away by an old glat'ier, which has exi)osed
the correspondence in the stratification of the cliffs
on eitlier side. At the head of the bay the snow-
clad mountains rise to a height of from 3,000 to
4,000 feet. The intervening valleys contain glaciers
in the Jiigher parts, and one of great ■ extends to
the sea, where it discharges numerous icel)ergs, a long
string of which were waiting the breaking up of the
last winter's ice, then filling up the bay, to drift out to
sea. The fixed ice extended from Prince Im])erial
Island to Capi' Schott. Except in the snuill neighbour-
ing bay near Cape Napoleon, this was the last fixed ice,
left unbroken by the advancing season, which we met,
and doubtless it drifted out of the bay a few days after-
wards. The dischai-ging glacier at the head of the
bay, the largest on the west shore of Smith Sound, was
named after the Em])ress Eugenie, who had shown a
great personal interest in the Ex])edition.
During the night of the loth the ice was pressed
up with great violence against Ca])e Hilgard, raising
a new pile of hummocks twenty feet high on the ice-
foot at the base of the cliff's.
There being no pro8])ect of our making an innnediate
advance, and wishing to ascertain what the ice was
doing off* Cape Napoleon, I started, with Feilden and
Aldrich and two men dragging the dingy on a five-man
sledge with one day's ])rovisions, over the ice, the ]wols
on the surface of winch were frozen over hard enough
to bear in most ])laces. Dr. Co])pinger, liawson, and
Mr. Hart, Avith some men, joined the party from the
' Discovery.'
On reaching Cape Ililgard we found a jjooI of
1875
CAPE IIILGAKI).
5)1
Avuter a quarter of a mile broad across which we were
obliged to ferry, our uuuibers necessitating three trips
with tlie small boat. We then sledged along the fairly
level-toi)i)ed ice-foot until we came to the pitch of the
cape, where the })iles of hinnmocks, })ressed up the
previous night, ])revented our getting on with the
sledge except at a great sacrifice of time.
In the biiy west of Cape Na])oleon a small land floe
was still left, kept in its position by some grounded
icebei-gs, and I foimd that if I could force the shij)s
})a8t the nip, rear their present position, there was
nothing else to prevent our advancing with the next
ebb-tide.
The raised beaches in the bay between Capes Ilil-
gard and Napoleon, formed of limestone debris re])lete
with fossils, were very marked and evidently corre-
sponded with those on Norman Lockyer Island. A
fine fjlacier was visited in a vallev on the east side of
the bay some two and a half miles from the sea. No
game of any sort was met with, and the country gene-
rally was as bare of vegetation as any I have ever come
across. Feilden obtained a considerable collection of
geological specimens of U])per Sihn'ian age. Dr. Moss
and Lieut. May succeeded in shooting six ptarmigan
and one hare near tlie shi]). Three dovekies were also
shot out of those feeding in the salt-water.
On the 15th, observing that the water-pool near
Cape Hilgard remained free of ice, all hands were em-
])loyed in endeavouring to clear away the intermediate
ice resting against the shore ; but as fast as it was re-
moved the ])ressnre from outside forced in the tloe. When
the flood-tide made in the afternoon the ice was quieter,
w
yOYAGK TO THE POLAll SEA.
August
I'll:
¥■'•'' 'iJ
and ow ii iiiiinbcr oi' cliaiges of ))0\v(1ct being ex])locled
siniiiltjincously a narrow ])a!ssage was opened alongshore ;
but so quick was it in closing that after the ' Alert ' had
])assed throngh safely, the ' Discovery ' scraped along the
bottom and for u few moments cansed us much anxiety
owing to the dread that the ice would force her up
on the shore. As we advanced out of the bay the ice
was more o])en and we rounded Cape Louis Napoleon
in a navigable chamiel half a mile broad.
The pack outside us consisted of very heavy floes
closely pressed together, with the edges of each field
well defined by a hedge-like line of j)ressed-u]) ice.
Many icel)ergs were in the ])ack : a few groimded here
and there alongshore near Ca])e Frazer now afforded
our only chance of shelter should the ice force its
way in toAvards the shore.
Advancing quickly during the 16th with calm
"weather, a neck of ice checked us for an hour at 1 a.m :
but on the ebb-tide gaining strength it o])ened a narrow
channel, and we ])roceeded, fighting our way along-
shore, until Ave had arrived, at 6.30 a.m., Avithin a mile
of Cape Hayes. At that ])oint Ave Avere completely
stopj)ed in consequence of the flood-tide having carried
the pack in against the land.
The ' Alert ' Avas then secured inside an iceberg
aground in thirty fathoms ; but as there Avas not room
for both shi])s, the 'Discovery' Avas forced to retreat
about a mile to the AvestAvard, Avhere she succeeded in
sheltering herself to a slight extent behind and inshore
of three small bergs.
Shortly afterAvards the i)ack Avas forced in and Ave
Avei'e com])letely surrounded. Witli the boats turned
l5<75
GOULD liA.Y.
9S
iiiboiird and cveiytliiiig ready for a nip, the ships were
left entirely dependent on the icebergs for shelter
against direct pressure ; but any floe moving alongsiiore,
small enough to pass between the icebergs and the
land must necessarily have carried off the shij) with it
as it forced its way past.
Wishing to see what proteiition was to be expected
near Ca])e Frazer, Commander Markham, Feilden, and
I landed during the flood-tide, during wliich it was
impossible for the ice to o|)en uidess assisted by a fresli
wind, and walked three miles along the slioi'e to the
northward,- I found Gould Buy full of pack ice with
no protection whatever exce|)t what some grounded
icebergs might hapi)en to aflbrd. We obtained a few
fossils from the talus which fronts the cliHs to a height
of about 200 feet. T\ro ivory gulls were flying about
the clifl's, probably near their nests : and on the ice-
foot we observed tiie tracks of a bear.
With the afternoon ebb-tide the ice eased ofl*
slightly. There being no prospect of our. rounding
Ca])e Frazer for the present, and the icebergs having
afforded very })oor ])rotection, I decided to secure the
sliii)s to a large floe about a mile to the westward,
Avhicli by resting: a<jainst two larfje icebersrs was held
nearly stationary.
After waiting a short time while the ' Discovery '
was effecting her escape, we succeeded in reaching the
floe and tried to cut docks. The saws, however, ])roved
to be quite powerless to cut through the ice, which was
fi'om twelve to twenty feet in thickness and heavily
tongued to an unknown depth beneath.
I therefore secured the ships in a bight in the edge
'■m
ISii,
life.]
l-l ;.
.1
'I
I'M
.V:!i
''!i:
m
Mm
I,
iiii '
III
i
,11
1)4
VOYAdE TO THE POLAR SKA.
AuGusr
of the floo as well prejiarecl us circumstances perinitted
for Avliatover might lui])[)eii.
Ill the event of the ice separating the sliijis, Captain
Stephenson was ordered to rendezvous in Dobbin Bay.
The w'eather being calm and the atmosphere clear,
the sun was extremely powerful during tlie middle of
the day, the temperature rising from 31° at night to
39° at noon. Mount Gary, the highest mountain
on the south shore of Hayes Soimd, Avas observed
seventy miles distant covered with snow and ice.
About this time the dogs on board the ' Discovery '
showed the lirst signs of disease, owing probably to
close confinement, wet decks, and want of natural
exercise. Fits were frequent, and a few deaths oc-
curred after sym})toms of madness. Doctor Colan and
Doctor Ninnis took great trouble to discover the nature
of the disease and to arrest it. It was evident that this
alarming and very often fatal malady coidd not be true
rabies or hydro})hobia, for in several instances the
affected dogs recovered.
Although the weather was calm duriug the 17th
and the following day, the pack had a general tendency
to drift towards the south-west at the rate of about
live miles a day, moving fast with the ebb-tide and
remaining at rest duriug the Hood. In consequence of
the floe to which Ave were attached being held sta-
tionary the moving pack outside ground its way past,
tearing off the exposed corners in a very alarming
manner. The dividing line between the fixed and
the moving ice was distinctly marked by a hedge-like
line of newly raised ice-hmnmocks, at least twenty feet
in height.
1875
im:ti{]:at.
95
As tho L'X|K)se(I parts of the Ijorder of our floe were
broken up one after auotliei' the hue of iii]) was
steadily but surely uearing us ; but as the same kind (A'
terrific eonibat was going on a quarter of a mile to the
southward, on the other side of the slii])s, it was un-
wise to move sooner than we were compelled to.
This was the first time the ice-quartermasters — ex-
])erienced men in the ice-navigation of BalKn's ]3ay —
realized the vast thickness and ])ower of the Polar ice
as cc>m])ared with tluit with which they had hitherto
been acquainted. The closing together of two Polar
floes upwards of fifty feet in thicjkness may be appro-
])riately compared to the closing of the two sides of a
dry dock on the doomed vessel.
As the position of the ni|) advanced so the two
shii)s gradually retreated before it, losing, much to the
regret of all, a portion of our hard-won advance
towards the north. By the evening of the 18th we
had been forced l)ack into a small ])ool of water close
to the two grounctcd icebergs, against which our floe
was resting Avith the outside pack nip])ing against the
whole length of its outer edge in anything but a re-
assurhig manner.
The water-pool in wliich the two shi|)s floated was
steadily contracted in size, until at last it became so
small that had a nip occurred both must have been
destroyed at the same moment. Although the greatest
danger was imminent, entra])|)ed as we were, our
anxiety was lessened by the knowledge that as human
beings we were powerless, and nuist leave the residt to
Providence. About midnight when, in endeavouring
to kec|) the ships as far a])art as ])ossible, the ' Alert's'
^•()^^\fJE TO THE rOLAR SEA.
ArousT
I
bowsprit was projecting beyond the side of one of tlie
icebergs, the closing in of the outer ice ceased. Shortly
afterwards it began to ease off, and at half-past twelve
the wuter-])ool had grown so large that I gave the order
to raise steam and shi|) the rndders and screws — heartily
glad of a chance to escape from our exj)osed situation.
The ice continuing to open to the westward, the shi|)s
were moved about a mile in that dii-ertion and secured
in a more ])rotected position inshore of three very
large grounded icebergs, wliere, although we had lost
ground, we Avere equally I'cady to start as soon as an
oi)])ortunity occun'ed to j)ass Ca])e FiTixer.
In endeavouring to connect the ' Alert's ' screw
some of tlie ice collected in the screw-well j)revented
its being lowered to the right de])th ; consequently
the ' Discovery,' whose sci'ew gave less trouble, towed
ns to our new position.
After the shi])s were secured, a ])ai'ty of officers
landed, kee])ing within f<ight of a recall. The young
ice in all the ]>rotected ])ositions had increased in
thickness so much that we had great difhculty in
forcing a passage thronuh it for the boat.
I ascended 2,000 feet up the side of Moiuit Joy,
and, the atmos])here being clear, obtained a fine
view of the heavy line of icebergs lying ap])arently
aground in Peabody Bay fronting the Iliunboldt Ghicier.
In their neighboiu'hood there were many water-]X)ols.
The summit of the ice-ca]) on Washington Land,
dividing the Humboldt and Petermann Glaciers, eighty
miles distant, and estimated as being 6,000 feet
high, was conspicnons, presenting a decided peak with
the sides sloping down at an incline of not more than
two or three degrees.
II :l
iiiiiii
1876
rAS8 CAPE FIJAZI'Jl
97
As I started to descend, I observed that at tlie last
of the flood-tide the ice near the shore showed signs of
o])ening. Expecting this to continue with the ebb, I
hurried down and signalled the ships to start, getting
uj) steain as they advanced under sail.
When the steam was ready the water-channels had
opened considerably, and by pushing out into the ])ack
for about two miles we entered a channel that led us
to the shore again a little Jiortli of Cape Frazer.
This cape, Avhere the Polar and Baffin's Bay tide's
meet, had long been considered one of the most difficult
points to pass. On rounding it a fortnight before the
end of the navigable season we were all raised to the
highest state of hope and exi)ectation.
m
in
VOL. I.
m
98
VOYAGE TO TIIK POLAR SEA.
A IGUST
!ii!i
trii'
nil II
■I: :
t'v-r
i! T
^.|:
CIIArTER VI.
«
CAI'K JOHN nARKOW — CAPE COM.INSON — OPRN WATKK— CAI'K CONSTI-
TUTION — BKSSKT.S HAY— DISCOVF.HV IIAUHOUR — MUSK. OXEN — SHU'S
PART COMPANY — CAPK HKRCHEY — IN THE PACK — PERILOUS PO-
SITION — ESCAPE — CAl'E UNION.
During the lOtli, the Avater-chaniiel along shore, about
a qujirtcr-of a mile in brendth, remained open so long
as the ebb-tide lasted, the ])a('k outside drifting to tlie
soutliward at an estimated rate of one and a-lialf
miles an hour. At 8 F'.m., about the time of low-water,
a large iloe threatened to block up the wnter-sjiaee, but
after a short delay the ])assage cleared and by 9.15 P.M.,
we had arrived within two miles of Cajie Jolm Barrow.
There the ice ])revented farther ])rogress, so the ships
were secured to a floe locked in behind three large
icebergs, lying aground in twenty-two fathoms of
water, and aflbrdiiig ])rotection against the ])a(;k.
Although the flood-tide had commenced, the i(;e
continued to drift towards the southward, proving that
Ave had passed the neighbourhood where the two
ocean tides meet. While I was taking a short rest,
Commander Markham landed and ascended Cape John
Barrow to watch the movements of the ice. Captain
Feilden and two men accompanied him, and as the
movements of the ice were uncertain, they dragged
III
liUlll.
1870
VWV: JOHN HAi:i!(»\V.
99
tlio (liiijiv with tlu'in.
rr.
At tlii.s time of the
seii.son tlie young .ice
covering the ])ools on
the fh)e was suffi-
ciently strong to bear
tli(! weight of a man.
On Markliam ascend-
ing the cape to a lieight
of several hundred feet,
he observed much o])en
water to the northward
niid along the shore,
and as there was every
probability of the shi])|i!i!i
bcinir able to force her
way into it, he ran
back to the boat, much |j|'" ''
to Feilden's disap])ohit-
ment.
The latter had
found an interesting
stratum of limestone
replete with fossils, and
although as anxious
as anyone to advance
quickly to the north-
ward, and knowing
how important every
moment Avas in ice-
navigation, he yet man-
fully stuck to his jnizes.
i k
100
VOYAfJE TO 'rilK POI-.VU SKA.
Ai;(IU:.T
11
Jl , '
i mm ., '.
I »-,i
I'll!! I
Amid Marklumi's i'o|)eaU'(l calls to liastoii, he (lusct'iicU'd
tho hill, and scrambled over the ice with his load, eveii-
lually «4eltiii^Mhe specimens on board, hy the time they
had reached (he beach tlie fickle ice had closed in again,
and <^ave them much trouble to haul the boat between,
and sometimes over, the newly t'ormin<jf lumnnocks.
On observing the ice myself I considered its move-
ment so very uncertain as it di-ifted south that I
decided to wait for high-water before starting, ho|)ing
that the ebb tidal current would then o[)en up a
decidedly clear water-channel. In this I was iu)t disa])-
])ointed, for on tlie 20th at 1.15 a.m., about an hour
before high- water, I was able to proceed slowly north-
wards threading our way through the ])ack. On
nearing Cape Norton Shaw the ice opened out from
the shore as quickly as it had closed in the previous
evening and left several chaimels for our selection ;
a very decided and agreeable change in the navigation
to what we had exj)erienced since entering the ice oil
Victoria Head, now left about sixty miles behind.
As we passed the lai-ge opening forming Scoresby
Bay, the distant shore at the bottom of the bay was so
shrouded in mist that we were unable 'i a ain
with certainty the size of the inlet • i ained nuich
ice with a large water-pool along i rthern slio)'
The pack being well o])en ahea T left the crow's
nest for a short time, i)ointing out to the ice-quartei'-
master who took my place a perfectly clear and opening
channel. On returning within a quarter of an hour,
I found the channel which we had entered not only
closing fast but oiu' line of retreat cut off", although
on either side other cliannels were opening. How-
|:^^^' i
1875
CAPE roIJJNSON.
101
ever, after n dcla}^ of alxMil lialf an lioiir, tlui 'Discovery '
broke a way for lis lliroii<rli tlie moving pack and xt^a
were eiiableil to proceed. In tins nei<xliboiirlK)od we
Iiad great dilliculty in recognizinj^ the land by the
chart. Accordinjij to latitude, Ca|K! Fra/er was more
ihan ten miles ont of position, and Scoresby J?ay six-
teen. I have retained these names, as given Ijy Dr.
Kane and Dr. Hayes, and published by the United
»^tates Hydrograj)liic Odiceon the chart, without regard
to the necessary change in latitude, but at tlic northern
extremity of Kennedy Channel I have kej)t the names
given by Dr. Hayes in the latitudes he ado|)ted.
Arriving at Ca])e Collinson, I found that a large
iceberg, aground two miles distant from the land, laid
locked in a floe which reached from the south })oint of
liichardson Bay to Cape Collinson. The northern edge
of this floe received the whole j)ressure of the ice
drifting to the southward on the western side of
Kennedy Channel, and prevented our advance unless I
took the shi])s off into the middle of the strait. Owing
to the risk of drifting to the southward if beset, I
secured the ships at the southern edge of the stationary
floe, in a })ool of water near to the iceberg.
To the northward the ice ])ressing against the
southern shore of Eichardson ]iay was closely ])acked,
but in the offnig it was more open altho'gh it could
scarcely be deemed navigable. It set to the southward
during the flood and part of the ebb-tide ; for fonr
lioiirs of the latter it remained stationary. As there
had been no wind, so far as we knew, to influence it
for several days, this may probably be taken as the
normal state of the current. The ice drifted about
'M
m
m
102
VOVAOK TO THE POLAR SEA.
AuonsT
m
live miles each tide, making ten miles a day, and thus
gave us the pleasing prospect of meeting moi'e open
watei' as W(j advaneed north. It also rendered it
certain that Eobeson Channel connnunieated with the
Polar Sea. We observed that the ice had been forced
higli u]) on the sliore on the northern side of Cape
Collinson, but tlie southei'n face of the cape presented
no a|)|)eai'ance of severe ])ressure.
During our <'nforced delay a small de[)6t of 240
rations was landed on Cape Collinson about one
hundred VJirds hishore and thirty feet above the water-
line. These |)i'ovisions hav(3 not since been disturbed.
During winter llay A\'ill be dee|)ly buried in snow, and
|)robably the mai'k placed over them will have bi'oken
down. The opj)ortunify was taken of letting down
the dredge in seventy fathoms, and some additional
animal foi'ms wei'e added to our list of ca])tures.
The tracks of a beai" and the recent foot])rints of a
hare were seen, but the gh)omy weather, with light
snow falHng, I'endered the Lind s])ecially desolate in
api)earaiu'e. In the eveni of the two ships parting
com))any Captain St('])henson was oi'dered to rendez-
vous at Carl Uitler Bay.
At 4 A.M., of the 21st, I determined to try and
advance north through tJu' pack in the offing, but, on
getting two miles from the land, the channels led us so
nnich towards the south that I returned to the ])Osition
we had lately left. We then tried to imlock the
land-ice IVom the iceberg with the hope of releasing
the ice to the northward, but it is probably fortunate
that we did not succtM'd, as the berg alone was too
small to afford ])rotection to both ships. In the
lS7o
KENNEDY CHANNEL.
loa
evening the wind iiaving freshened from (lie norlli-
ward with ii heavy snowstorm, the temjierutnre being
27°, Captain Ste])lienson and I decided to make
another push for tlie water whicli was in sight in iho
middle of the strait. Accordingly at 9 p.m., nearly
tlie time of low- water, we started under steam and
sails, and after {in hour's severe strui^yle succeeded in
tbrcing our way through the closest ])art of tlie |)a('k.
When six miles from the land we entered water suffi-
ciently open to let us choose our own course. Naturally
everyone was in the best possible s])irits at our im-
])roved ])rospects; and hopes were entertained by a few,
that having i^assed the meeting ])lace of the northern and
southern tides, a sea com])aratively clear of ice woidd
l)e found to the northward. Ariiving in mid-channel,
the Avind was l)lowiiig so strong directly down the
strait that in t)rder to make any ])rogress we were
obliged to work the 8lii])s to windward under foi'e and
aft sails, the ice compelling us to make short boards,
but by tackhig as the leads were obsei'ved to favour us
we made good waJ^
The ed<Tes of tlie Hoes around showed simis of
having been lately exposed to a nuich lieavier sea
than we were tlien experiencing, large fragments of
well washed debris ice, rounded by attrition, having
been thrown up on the edges of the floes like pel)bles
on to a beach.
Dunng the 22nd, as we advanced up the channel,
there appeared to be less ice on the western than on
the eastern shore. Unfortunately the misty w-cather
prevented our obtaining a good view of the hill-tops.
By noon we were fairly in Kennedy Channel and
104
VOYAGE TO THE I'OLAR SEA.
August
'::«>!■;
:W' ')
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AH
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111
II
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Hi
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met with apparently a similar
extent of open water to that
seen by Mr. Morton of Kane's
Expedition in the same lo-
cahty. Morton's description
of Cape Constitution, with the
rekitive positions of Frankhn
and Crozier Islands, rendered
it easy to recognize the spot
where his remarkable journey
from Eensselaer Harbour ter-
minated in June 1854.
Though our later experi-
ences show that this open
water is caused by the rapidity
of the tidal movements in a
comi)aratively narrow channel
connecting two large basins,
yet at the time Dr. Kane
wrote, with the incomplete
data at his command, he had
fair reason to believe in the
existence of a very consider-
able extent of open sea. In
justice to the memory of that
distinguished Arctic explorer,
I extract the following from
his volumes, where he re-
views Morton's journey, and
com])ares with his discoveries
the re])orted open waters and
seas of other Arctic voyagers :
J87o
MORTONS OPEN WATER.
105
' All these illusory discoveries were no doubt chronicled
with ]:)erfect integrity ; und it may seem to others, as
since I have left the field it sometimes does to my-
self, thnt my own, though on a larger scale, may one
day ]3ass within the same category.'
It not unfrequently ftdls to the lot of the traveller
to invalidate some of the conclusions of his predecessors
who may not have enjoyed similar opportunities of
observation as himself, but it is equally his duty to
render to those who went before him, the credit when
due, of having given in perfect good faith the result of
their investigations.
In the evening when the two shi])s were abreast of
Cnpe Constitution, the wind lulling we took in the fore
and aft sails, ,and steered onward through the most
open channels, passing to the westward of Franklin
Island. By midnight we were abreast of Hans Island
Avith perfectly clear water along the eastern land about
John BroAvn Coast, but streams of ice prevented our
approaching the western shore. Hans Island rises on
its southern face ; o a cliff about 500 feet high ; both it
and Franklin Island showed signs of great pressure
against their northern points, the ice having been ])iled
up to a height of fifty or sixty feet, while the southern
shores were free.
The land about Cape Andrew Jackson is bluff but
comparatively low, and sinks as it trends to the east-
ward in the direction of tlie Humboldt Glacier, the
l)osition of which was very cons[)icuously marked by a
strong ice-blink as the sun reached its lowest declina-
tion. From Cape Andrew Jackson to Cai)e Constitu-
tion the coast of Washington Land gradually rises,
'J<:
■} W\ J
flpp
m- ■■
i|h;--.
1 I
11
11 1
1
' ; ' i
' 1
'','
' ' V
1
1:
t^kii;
til''!:'
!.M i;
I tf
106
V(A'A({E TO THE I'OLAli SJiA,
Aroi'ST
ciiliniuiiliii*^ lit tlio hist-iijiinc'd jjoint, iuid from thence
gently sinking towards Cape Bryan. The wliok; of the
coast-line ])resents an almost preci|)itoiis cliff rising to
a lieight of at least 1,000 feet. No dee]^ fiords cnt
through this long line of cliffs, Lafayette Bay being
the only striking indentation, and it does not run far
inland. On the western side of Kennedy Channel
the noble Victoria and Albert Mountains rear their
snow-clad ])eaks to a height of over 5,000 feet in a
series of isolated cone-shaped hills. Judging by the
eye, iha loftiest portion of this range a])])eais to lie to
the south-west of Scoresby Bay, the mountains gradu-
ally diminishing in height towards the head of Lady
Franklin Sound.
Throughout the day we could not cease wondering
why the strong current from tlie north did not bring
down ice to fill up the o])en Avater through which we
were racing. We were also struck with the paucity of
animal life in this ri'gion ; duiing the previous twenty-
four hours only one seal and about a dozen do\.ekies
v/ere observed, whilst not a single gull or loom was
noticed: fliis is stnuewhat remai'kable if Kennedy
Cliannel remains continuously open durhig the
sunnner.
At 4 A.M., of the 2nrd, steering N.E. by N., the
high land about Ca])e Lupton near Polaris Bay was
sighted, distant about fifty miles ; the land to the east-
ward being below the horizon presented the ap])ear-
ance of ti channel leading to Newman I3ay.
On Hearing Hall Basin with a southerly wind, ice
was observed stretching across from Cape Liebcr to
Joe Island, with a collection of stream-ice extending
!:f
1875
BESSELS 15AY.
107
out tb]' three miles
from the land on
the western shore
of Kennedy Chan-
nel. After an in-
effectnal attem})t to
i-each a small bay
south of Ca])e De-
fosse, the ice-streams
being heavy and
moving quickly to
tlie northward with
the southerly wind
and ebb-tide, I
steered for Cape
Morton to see
whether tliere were
a lead to tlie north-
Avard on that side
of the channel. For-
tunately as it turned
out afterwards, the
entrance to Peter-
mann Fiord was
completely closed.
Being thus debarred
from advancing
along the eastern
coast, I left the
' Discovery ' to land
a, travelliug depot
of 240 rations at
^
n
k
i'l * '•■
m
i
i
1
1
1
4
ikj
Rf
y't*. J:
m
':*'<.■
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i':l
iiii
1 : I ».i
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I in
1 . ,m
H ; ':! :l
108
VOYAGE TO THE rOI.AU SEA.
August
Cape Morton, and took the ' Alert ' back to Ilannjili
Island, Avhero we had noticed si fairly protected anchor-
age. On aniving ofl its enti-ance avc shortened sail
and came to anchor in eight fathoms on a shallow
bank extending to the eastward of the island. Nearer
to the mainland there must be a dee])er channel
through which the icebergs formed in Bessels Bay
escape to seaward. The precipitons cliffs on either
shore of the bay are cased in a mer de glace from
which glaciers push their way down each ravine into
the sea, a,nd there discharge their icebergs. This bay
therefore contains a vast assemblage of bergs, and
many lie agronnd on the shallows near its mouth.
The tide ran with great rapidity over the shallow
bank, and Ave were obhged to keep oiir cables ready
for slipping in the event of any heavy piece of ice
beinjT driven against us.
The ' Discovery ' anchored near us in the evening,
having accom])lishcd the task of landing a depot.
Hannah Island was visited and a cask containing a
notice was ])laced on the summit of the island, a
second notice being placed twenty feet magnetic north
of the cairn. From this jiositiou the difference between
the eastern and western shores of Kennedy Channel
was very striking. The summits of the Greenland
hills were bin-ied beneath a nearly level ice-cap, with
each ravine extending from the shore completely filled
by a glacier ; on the other hand, the mountains of
Grinnell Land appeared to be entirely devoid of ice,
their tops only being snow-covered, while the lower
valleys were bared except in sheltered spots where a
1875
VIEW FROM IIAXNAII ISLAND.
109
few ptitclies of iiimielted snow Htill reniainecl. On tlio
one side the scenury was niouotouons and drcuuy in the
extreme, on the otlier the many' bright hues of the
stratified rocks varying from black to carmine shades,
and wreatlied with patches of snow, looked warm and
cheerful by contrast. The valleys devoid of snow gave
promise of vegetation, and held forth visions of game.
Our finding in these latitudes (Uiy land imcovered by
i(^e or snow brought back to me remembrances of
Melville Island, and its abundant su])plies of animal
hfe. It was, perhaps, the joyful feelings growing out
of our late success in gaining the more open water of
Kemiedy Channel that gave birth to these highly
coloiu'ed rertections, foi- on a neai'er a])proacli to this
Grinuell Laud shore the following year, the same
country a])[)eared to our then more experienced and
criti(!al eyes desolate in the extreme.
From tlie summit of Hannah Island, some 120 feet
above high-water mark, I observed the loose ice we had
met in Kennedy Channel driving to the northward
before a strong southerly wind, and adding to the pack
accumulated in Hall Basin, thus giving us but a poor
prospe(!t of an immediate advance. Tlie weather being
clear we obtained from Hannah Island our first .sight t)f
Grant Land, north of Cape Lieber.
It was low-water at Bessels Bay at 10.40 p.ai. ; the
ebb tidal current ceased at 10 p.m. ; at 11 p.m. the
flood-tide was setting in to the bay with sufficient
strength to swing the sliips broadside to the wind. In
the water round us bird life was abundant, dozens of
dovekies nested in the steep limestone cliffs and were
i""
> (I
no
V()YA(}K 'lO Till-; I'OLAIl SEA.
August
<i I
I' I .■':
lip'- ill
m'h
couHtaiilly flyiii.i;' from tlie sea witli fisli in their bills ;
many la-oods of eider ducks following; their mothers
were noticed, and several seals. 'Die di'edge wjis let-
down in eijilit fjithoms ; it came up filled with lime-
stone pebbles, doubtless shed from the bergs ; two or
three ex;nnples of 7)'<)c/ms cliniiinuf to Ldnruiaria, an
Astartc, ;i sl;ir(isli, jiiid a cou|)le of annelids were all
the animnis obliiined. A few iSiluriiin fossils were col-
lected froni . the massive limestone clifls that flank
the buy.
At t A.M., of the 24lh, the ofFicer of the watch
re])orted that tlic southei'ly wind in the channel was
f^ 'ing away, and ho|)iiig that a lead might o])eii near
(Ja])e Liebei', I landed jind ascended Cape Morton,
accom|)anied by Thomas Kawlings, first-class ])etty
officer, to ins])ect the condition of the ice. After a
very severe climb u\) the steej) sides to the summit of
the coast ridge, a heiglit of 2,000 feet, we were amply
re])aid for our laboui' and loss of breakfast by the
grandeur of the view.
It was a beautiful morning with scarcely a clond
in the sky, the cold shai']) wind Avliich had benimibed
us at the sea-level was local, for on the sinnmit of the
cape it was ])erfectly calm, and I was able to work
without gloves though the temjierature was down to
20°. Aiier a quarter of an hour spent in taking
bearings, the wai'mth enaendered by our rapkl ascent
])assed off, and our dam]) underclothing ])roved any-
thing but agreeable ; we were glad enough to ])ut on
our warm jackets wliich we had at first discarded.
The ])anorania, was cei'tainly su])erl). Sixty miles
distant in the S.W., were the Victoria and Albert
187')
VIJ<:\V FROM CWE MOHTOX.
Ill
Mountains of Griniiull Liuid, fronted by IfanM Lsland
showing clear of Cape Bryan, which had Hannah
Island nestling at its base. Farther nortli was tlie
lofty spur fi'oni the main range, wliieh rising l)etween
Archer Fiord and Keiniedy Channel, foi'nis Daly Pro-
inontory, named aftei- the learned I'resident of the
United States Geographical Society. Fronting these
mountains and appai'ently sej)arated from them by an
extensive valley extending to the northward from
Carl Eitter Bay, was the black buttress-shaped cliff
forming Ca])e Back, the southern extreme of a nearly
straight-iunning line of flat-topped coast hills ex-
tending for twenty miles to Cape Defosse. From thav.
])oint the coast land became more hilly and joining
the Daly Mountains extended to Cape Lieber, a bluff
headhmd, with Cape Jkird a low Hat ])oint, jutting out
beyond it. Still fai'ther nortli were the elevatinl
mountains of Grant Land, with the steep clifTs about
Ca])e Union, though seventy miles distant, distinctly
visible, forming the western extreme of liobeson
Channel. Nearly due north a slight break in the
continuity of the land showed where Eobeson Channel
opened into the Polar Sea. On the eastern side of
the strait at a distance of forty miles. Cape Lu|)ton,
a notable landmark, terminated Polaris Pi-omontoiy ;
then came Polaris Bay, with the low plains leading to
Newman Bay. At my feet lay Ca])e Tyson, and Ca])e
Mary Cleverley, on the northern shore of Petermann
Fiord, rising to an elevation of 1,500 feet.
The southerly wind had left faii'ly open ice in
Keimedy Channel between our ])osition and Ca])e
Lieber, with a large space of open watei- in Lady
112
YOYACIK TO TIIK TOLAll SEA.
AuousT
:' d!
:i.tJ'^:'hii!#l
■§r
5* I
Fi-aiiklin Soiiiid, Kobcson Cliannel, roljiris Bay, and
the entrance to Peteiniann Fiord were closely packed,
tlioiigli a few ])ools of water could be seen stretching
in a disconnected line between Ca])e Beeehey and
Cape Lnpton.
Offley Ishmd, at tlie north-western entrance of
Petennann Fiord, being witliin reasonable ja-oxiniity
of the localities where the 'Polaris' Exj)edition pro-
cured their supplies of nuisk-oxen, had been looked
upon by me as likely to afford good winter-(|uarters
for the ' Discovery,' although the disadvantage of its
being on the eastern side of the channel was very
great ; but now the condition of tlie ice ])reventing
any ai)proac]i to Ollley Island left me no option but to
take both ships to the western shore.
Hurrying to the boat, the ships were signalled to
get under weigh, and I rejoined them as they Avere
leaving Bessels Bay. We ran quickly across the channel
under snil, expei'iencing little trouble with the ice until
ofi' Cape liieber, Avhere the edge of ilie ])ack led us
round towards the north shore of Lady Franklin Sound.
On a nearer ap[)roach we discovered a large and well
l)rotected bay, inside of an island the outer ])oint of
which formed Ca])e Bellot. There the shi])s were
secured close to the shore at 2 a.m. of the morning of
the 25th. Lady Franklin Sound, with its grand ])re-
ci])itous cliffs, which we hoped would ])rove to be a
channel leading to a western sea, a])peared, to our
regret, to be considerably narrower than it was depicted
on the chart.
I at once saw the value of the harbour we had
attained as a Avintei'ing place for the ' Discovei'y,' but
187o
LADY FIJANlvi.IN 8(»UMJ.
11;]
ill (•()iisL'([U('iicc' of tlie (|U;iiilily of newly iiillcii snow
lying on llii' ground, (lie nciglibourliood pi'u.sentcd <(>
desolate an a|)|)earaii('e that we could not hut coni-
])assi()nate her crew lia\ing !o sj)end a yeai', if jioI
longer, in such a ])la('o.
Our cros^iing fVoni liessels Bay to the westei'u shore
had given an o))])ortunity foi' a joke about the nuisk-
ox gi-ounds ha vino- been left belli nd ; but it was destined
to be short-livyd, for on entering the liarbour. Dr. ]\ioss,
HEAD OK MfSK-OX.
always on the look-out foi* game, es|)ied a herd of musk-
oxen near the shore. They Avei'c at first mistaken bv
some for black boulders, but soon our doubts were
removed by the animals moving. Amidst great excite-
ment, half a dozen s|)ortsmen were landed; being too
eager to submit to much generalshii), they had a long
and exciting chase, but at last succeeded in shooting
the entire herd, numbering nine.
Our intense L^ratification at this result was enhanc.'ed
VOL. T. I
I'M
114
VOYAfSK TO TIIK I'OLAl] SKA.
AnirsT
,1 ;
i|, ii;i||
I'-li
R:/r;;ii
j:Ml|;i
by the news our sporlsiMcii l)n)iiulu hiick tliat tlu'
country was fjiirly vcjjrctatcd, and tliat nunici'ous tracks
of hares, f'oM's, and ptarnii^jan liad In'on seen.
No doubt now remained about K'avin«5 tlie 'Dis-
covery' llu're, and preparations were at once made I'or
our parting company. Lieutenant Wyatt Uawson
and a sledjxe crew joined the ' Ak-rt,' to sti-enjftlien hei'
crew and as I'ai' as possible to share the honours of
a sti'uggk' towards the Pole between the two ships. It"
the vessels did ru)t separate too lai', they were to
retui'ii to their own ship dui'ing the autumn. It was
impossible I'oi' two ships' com|)anies to have wt)i'ked
together for a common I'lid more iiarmoniously than
those of the 'Alert' and 'Discovery,' ami one and all
regretted that duty rendered our se])ai-ation necessary.
In the evening I ascended a, hill on the noilh side
of Discovery llarbonr, a height of 1200 feet by aneroid.
It was the worst ground for walking ()\er that I ever
met with ; the level ])lots were cut np l)y the frost into
large clods, like a dee])ly ploughed field with cross
ridges ; the whole was covered with a smooth carpet of
snow, which while hiding the irregularities from sight
Avas not solid enough to bear one's weight. The footing-
was so extremely uncei'tain that several times I fell
headlong. It was, however, extremely gratifying to
find a loamy soil Avith abnndant sorrel, Avillow, saxi-
frages and grasses, instead of hard limestone and
gravel plains.
The geological formation of the area around
Discovery Bay differs entirely from the massive Silurian
limestones of Bessels Bay on the opposite side of the
channel. Slates, with thin-bedded hai-d limestones
187<"^
DISroVKIfV MAY.
115
and iiuIiirufiMl hIimIcs, comijosc tlic surroimdiiij^ liills.
The stTiilii two liij^lily coiihHUMl, ortcii iissimiiiig a
vorticiil position ; veins of (jiiiirt/: iind clici-t were IVc-
qucnlly found traversing tliusu rocks. A tew spedes
of wading birds still linj^'ered, but, jis a ruU; they were
in lUx'ks and evklenlly on tlieir way south; lurnstones
{Sfri'P''<il(fs i/iterpres) wei'e tiie eonunonesi, but small
family |)arties of the knot [7\'liit/it cunntus) were feed-
inu' alon<r llu; beach at low-water. Snow-bunt inu's
were flockin<r, and they chirped in a .sad di.sc()nsolale
maimer about the frozen streams, trying to extract
a little water from chinks and crevices. Eesidents in
temperate climes, who enjoy throughout the year the
presence of many birds -with their joyous notes, can
scarcely realize the feelings of the .sojoui-ner in Arctic
wilds Avhen the first notes of the snow-bunting,
liarbinger of summer and returning warmth, awaken in
him vivid recollections of the far-ofl' south. With such
a one, the snow-bunting must ever remain an es[)ecial
favourite, and the [)reparatioris of this sweet songstei-
for a departure to more genial regions are a reminder
of a|)pro;u'hing darkness and the monotony of an
Arctic Avinter.
From my look-out hill T noticed that the ice in the
strait Avasmuch broken up, with a few water-pools here
and there ; although tlu!y wei'e not connected, it was
evident that an offshore wind would hmnediately open
a channel by which we could advance.
Owing to our high northern position, although the
sun was still above the horizon at midnight, its altitude
at noon was too low to affect the tempei'ature nmch ;
consequently after August 2()th the temperature of the
hi
i1
11
I -2
lU
\()YAOI'; TO THE POf.AR Si-' V.
ArorsT
Nill
ll P''-
air remained steadily below freezing [K)int for the
winter, and ihe young ice formed at mid-day earlier
than it does farther south. Notwithstanding this,
Arctic navigntion issogrciitly d(!i)endent on wind, that
there was still sufFicicnt of the season left to give us
a 7-easonable certainty of rcachhig the iiorthei-n land
which on the report of the Pohiris Exjx'dition had
been ])laced in latitude 84° N.
On the morning of the 20th, having left my orders
with {Ja])tain !*^te|)henson concerning our future move-
ments, the two ships foi'niing the Expedition se])arated ;
those in the ' Alert,' if the ])ublished charts and stati'-
ments of oui* jjredecessors j)rove(l coi-rect, having the
cheei'ing feelings of, in all humiin ))robal)ility, suc-
cessfully comi)leting the chief duty assigned us ; those
on bojird the ' Discovery,' although »'ejoicing at the
])rospects of their conn-ades, having also the depressing
sensation of 'oeing left behind to ])l!iy what they could
not but consider at the time a secondary part m the
SiX'iieral programme.
On ari-iving at the enti-ance of the harbour, the
main ])ac'k Avas found to be resting against the v^hore
and to have completely fdled up Lady Fi'aid-clin
Sound ; some small floes streaming rapidly into Dis-
covery Bay. In endeavouring to keep clear of these
the ship touched the ground and hung for a shoil
time; foi'tunately, by lowering the boats and lightening
tlie ship a little, slu' fh)ated again witlumt damage.
During tlu' afternoon at low-water the ])ack, which,
a])j»arently uninflueiu'ed by wind, had been moving to
the southward tlie whole day, drifted slightly off the
land.
1876
AKCTIC TERNP.
117
Iminodiate advantn^e was taken of tlu; wdeome
channel to ])ro('eed nortli, ])ut on reacliing Distant
Ca[)e the pack, whicli extended completely across the
strait, prevented all farther progress ; there was, tliere-
fore, no option left me bnt to retm'ii to Discovery
Harbom'; where the ship was again secured at the
entrance ready to advance on the fn-st opportunity.
Commander Markham, with Feilden and llawson,
pulled along shore towards Cape Murchison to watch
the ice, but it remained ])ersistently i)acked against
the shore. A small family of tei'ns {Sterna nuicvurd)
were found breeding on a rock off Dellot Island, and
at this late ])eriod of the season an unfledged young
bird was discovered in a nest. A brood of eider
ducks unable to fly Were also seen.
At tliis ])eriod of our voyage we supposed Eobeson
Channel to be a nai'i'ow sti'ait connecting Hall P)asin
whh a similar sea to the northward, and the difliculties
experienced by the 'Polaris' when navigating this
channel (k'monstrated that we could not hope to
advance through it exci'])t when a westerly wind blew
the ice off the Avestern shore. On the termination of
the westerly wind, or a shift to any other rpiartei-, the
ici' would naturally close in again, witli tlie pi'cvaihng
southerly running cui'i'i'ut.
This afterwards pi-ovcd to lu> the general move-
ment of the ])ack, except in the narrowest ])art of tlie
strait between Ca])e Peechey and PoLiris Pi-oniontoiy.
There, with a slight northerly ])ressure dui'ing calms,
the large floes ianimed a^iinst each other and blocked
the ])assagi'. 'Hie ice to the south of tlie block being
carried onwards, watei--])o<)ls were formed under the
''^^•■llfeif;^!
' !■■
t ' : ' I'
\ I
111! iii
■M.
" .,i'
m\
l ;;ii! ji«l!
118
voYAGi-: TO Tirp: poi.aii ska.
AiT.r.iT
luo of the prc'ssiii'c, and these oecasioiially would have
])ennitted the shij) to cross the channel, had I wished
to do so. A siniihir occurrence took |)hice Avith the
north running tide; therefore, under a favourable com-
bination of circumstances, a vessel might be navigated
from the neighbourhood of Lincoln Bay to Newman
Bay.
Our enforced di'Iay within sight of the 'Discovery,"
(juickly
AN'as
when the season \\as sli])])mg away so (
most provoking. Naturally there was no want of
ltd
"vvatcliers
at
lie
mas
thead
or on shore
lool-;
lllLi"
anxiously for a chance of ])roceeding northward.
Light north-east winds pre\ailed, with clouds resting
low on the lull-sides, but a clear sky showed over the
eastern land. The pack in the channel continued to
move to the south- west wai"d
in {i com])act
body,
'xce])t
during the height of the ebb-tide, when it was either
stationary or set slowly to the ]iorth-east. The dif-
ferent floes of which the ])ack was ("imposed remained
fairly quiet in juxtaposition, exce])l when ])assing a
prominent j)oint ; then a momentary disturbance would
take |)lace, pools of water would form under the lee
of the point until the accumulated pressure behind the
floe forceci it past the obstruction at more or less
ex])ense to its corners
(1 1
tl
le
water-s])ace anjis th'U
occu])ie(l l)y ice an
d all
W'
ould (juiet down
quickly
again. I did not kiunv it at the time, l)ut this ice
must have been carried up Lady Fraidslin Souiui,
which previous to our ai'rival had been em[)tied by a
south-west wind. On ascending the hill at 9 A.M., of
the 27th, about th<' time of high-wat' •, the ice Avas
observed moving otT from Ca])e Murchison, but before
ill urn
1^75
TIIK SUITS PAUT ro:Ml\\NY
111)
M \'l-^'H'
stoain could Ix' iiot im ii Imd closed amiiii. In tlie
cveniiiu' duriiijj: llood-tidc, ;i, small pool a_Lr;nu foi'inod
south of Ca.|)u ]\Iuiv]iisoii. hut there was no j)OssiI)ility
of ouf forcing a way through the intermediate ice.
The *jSlh hi'ought in a beautiful moi'iiing with a light
air from the south-east. At (S .\.m. the wind died
away, and tlu; ice seemed decidedly inclined to open.
At 11 l'..M.. the commencement of tlic north- ruiming
tide, we Avere just .about to moxc when a thick fog
envelo])ed us ; hiding e\'erything at more than twenty
yards distance, this eflectually prevented our stai'ting.
Later in the afternoon it cleared off. but it was iher.
low-water, and on tiying to move the ship I foimd
that, though afloat, she had settled down with the
iiilling tide into a basin suiroimded on all sides by a
bank of mud. The ship Avas immediately lightened
by lowering the boats and ])la(ing in them such artieles
as eould be readily hoisted on board again. With
the tantalizing ])ros])ect of an open channel before U3,
we were forced to wait for three hours, until the rising
water enabled the ship to pass over the o])struction.
Iloistinir up the boats and sin-uallinu' a final ' ^'ood-bye '
to the ' Discoveiy,' we then reached under steam to
within a mile of Cape l^eechey ; where in an en-
counter with a heavy floe, the rudder-head, v/hich had
been badly spi'ung sonu^ days before, became so injured
that the rudder itself was nearly useless. Observing
that the pack was pressing tight against the cajie to
the northward of us, I secured the shiji inside what
at the time we supposed to be groundt d icebergs, but
^vhich in reality were pieces of Polar floes.
While shifting the rudder the sportsmen, after a
', ii
4f
<4
> t
■ i|1
m
•■mM
ipl
120
VOYAOE TO THE POLAll 8EA.
AcHiTsr
iii
I Hi
If t!
long chase, killed tlwee iiuisk-oxeu out ot" a herd of
live, which were feeding near llie edge of a frozen
lake aboul a mile inland. The coast hills between
Si. Patiiek's liay and Cape lieechey are generally un-
dulaling and their sides less steej) than at other parts
of Itobeson Channel, so probably that neighbourhood
is a fair station for game. Xorth of Cape Beechey the
clifls rise direct from the sea, and ex('e|)t at the luad
of the bays offer no feeding' ground for musk-oxen.
If ever again travellers visit that neighbourhood,
they would do well to examine tlie valley leading to the
north-east behind Cape Beechey, which I believe Avill
be found to connnunicate with another, descending
into Wrangc^l l^ay. There is a])parently another
valley lead in <•• in llu' same direction connectin'T Wranufel
and Lincoln ]iays, behind jNfount Parry and Cape
Frederick VII. Tand travelling should usually be
avoided, but I suLri^esl this route on account of the
great difficailties eiicountci-ed on the ice in the chamiel
by our sledging parties.
The 20th was a calm bright day, and spring-tides
being near there Avas every ])rospect of the ice opening.
The barometer fallinir nlso gavj signs of a breeze from
the southward.
During the forenoon the ]iack remained ch)se
against the ice-foot of Cape Beechey. After divine
service, Mr. Pullcn, Egerton, and T pulled in a boat
along the shore as far as the ice pei'initted us, and then
ascended the cape by crawling up a steep ravine. On
arriving at the summit I found that we could not see up
Pobeson Channel, so wc were obliged to walk about two
miles along the hill top through the soft snow before
'm
187')
CAPK JJEECilEY.
121
we obliiinod the wished for view. ISiiiking ns we did
into soft yiiow uj) to our knees ;it each stej), tlie ex-
ertion was excessive, iiiid tlie exact manner in which
the footsteps of the leader were followed testified to the.
severity of the labour. Egerton, who had been chasing
nuisk-oxen all the ])revious night over somewhat
shnilar ground, was fairly tired bt^fore we I'eturned on
l)oar(l. Our scramble bore good fruits, for we had the
pleasing prospect of beholding a water-channel extend-
ing along shore nearly as far as Cape Union, and also
of seeing that the ice resting against Cape Beechey,
which cut us oil" from the channel, Was slowl}- openhig.
During our excursion avc secured our first living speci-
men of the lenmiiug [}[ii(>(h's torquatus) which we
aftei'wai'ds found to be common in Griniu'll Land.
Feildeii had previously found its remains in the pellets
rejected by tlu^ snowy owd [NyctedscandidCd), iu Twin
Glacier Valley, much farther south. I recognized in this
Icnmiing an old acpiaintance dating from my former
Melville Island experiences. The dislributiou of tliis
little rodent over nearly the whole (■inum[)olar area
is a very interesting fact.
Signalling to the ship to advance, we hastened to
retrace our ste])s. and got on board just as the vessel
was moving off. Passing Wrangel Bay at 8 p.m., we
ai'rivcd off the beetling elifls forming Cape Fi'ederick
Vn., which rise dii'ect from the sea Avithout any
adhering ice-foot. Thert' a ncit large and heavy tloe
was driving towai'ds the sliore imj)elled by the
southerly moving })ack. It was a close and very
anxious race to pass it without being crushed against
the j)reci}ntovis cliir^. Lincoln I^ay was reached at
*ls
i, . ,« Jn
., ■«
;!
t i 11
^t
m
»w-
.H'.i
mi
VOYACE TO THE VOLAII SEA.
ArcirsT
m
■M- "I
I i
n III!
I ii
rn
10. oO I'.M., ii little bclorc liioii-wiitcr. The ice would
liiive ])erniittefl IIS to i'e;ich n point two miles farther
iiorlli, hut there it touched the shore. Expecting that
the ebb-tide would Ibi'ce the pack against the hind, I
determined to wait for a more favourable o])])ortunity ;
and it was well that I did so, for very soon after the
ice closed in and not a speck of Avatei* was to be seen
anywhei'e. The shi]) was secui'cd in twenty-two
fathoms water alongside a floe formed that seawn,
consisting not of newly tVozen smooth ice, bnt of a
conglomeration of ice of all sizes interlocked above
and below Avater by pressure and then frozen together,
forming an extremelv hunnnockv iloe some eight or
ten feet in thickness. Already it was so comi)act as to
be extremely ominous of the a])])roaching winter.
During the forenoon of the oOth the tlood-tide
opened the ice sulliciently for a boat to reach the
northern shore of the bay; the o])])ortumty Avas taken
to land adepot of pi'o visions for travellers, consisting of
1000 rations. The depot w.'s placed about thirty feel
above the sea on a hill-side fi'onting the first dip in
the co,i-! hills from the extreme east ]H)int of the bay.
A cairn, which can be seen from the ce a mile b'om
land, Avas built a few yards inshore of where these
])rovisious were deposited. This depot was not snb-
seqnently interfered with by us, and no doubt still
remains intact.
At noon, about the time of high-watei-, the ice
commenced to o])en off shore and set towards the
north ; we innnedialely got nnder^'cigh and with a little
trouble suc(;eeded in gettino- to within tlu'ee miles or
Cape ITnion. Thei'e the ice inshore was closed, but
}f<7^
IJKSKT IN IIOHKSON CFIANNKF..
123
outside it was more ojX')i, iuul witli llu' ciiliii wciitlicr
uavc promise of Ictlino- us ^rd roiiiid tlie Cii|X'.
Accordingly I ])uslicd off and ran llircc miles into the
pack. At '■) I'.M. we could advance no fiii'thcr, and
instead of returning to the slieher oi' Lincoln Bay, I
waited in a large ])oo] of wale^- in the hope of its
shortly o|)ening towards the noi.ii. In this I was dis-
appointed, for at 4 I'.M., with just suflicient warning
to enable me to pick out the softest looking place near
us, the ice com])letely encircled the ship, and she he-
canu' hopelessly beset in a very heavy ])ack, consisting
of floes of eighty feet in thickness and IVom one to
foul' miles in diameter. The intervals between the
does were filled Avith biokeu-up ice of all sizes, from
the solid hummocks wliich, grinding past the ship's
side, endangered the quarter l)oats, to the smaller i)ieces
which the ni])])ing togethei- of the heavy floes had
rounded, like boulders or [)ebbles in a rapid stream.
Fortunately for us, intermixed witli the [)ack was a
vast amount of sludgc^-ice formed during the last
snow
fall.
•^mce meetniu' tiie ice
offC
il)e
Sal
)11U'
II
lad notice^
a gradual but considerable change taking |)la('e in the
natui'e of the floes as w^e advanced north. The heaviest
lliat we first encountered were not more than eight or
ten feet in thickness. ()frCa])e Frazer were a few still
older pieces, estimatcnl at the time as being twenty
feel thick, but evidently that was far short of the
correct measurement. It w^ns now certain that we
wi're Hearing a sea where the ice was of a com-
pletely different descrii)tioii to that of Bafiin's Bay or
Lancaster Sound, and that we were indeed approaching
a
f ,,
H ^^1
If J
1 1 Ul»
f- it
i ■
u
iliii;:;,:!;
'4
m\'.
fSillil^il'
i4
!•
■I tHSt\, I ' '''' '
PI
**!;*:
:*»!
h?. I
I '
121
V()YA(;k to thk polaii ska.
Ai(jrsT
the siiinc scii. wliicJi giivo birlli to the Jiciivy ice met
with ofl' tlio coast of America by Collinsoii and McClure,
and which sealed uj) tlie ' Investigator' for ever in tlie
Buy of Mercy, after her memorable and ])crilons
passage ah)ng the north-west coast of Banks Land. It
was the same descri|)tion of ice that Pai'ry encountered
wlien attempting to ])ass to tlie westward of Melville
Island, in 1820, and which conquered him and his 'ex-
])erienced comi)anions ; tliat ])assing down M'Clintock
Channel, beset and never aftei'wards released the
'Erebus' and 'Terror' under Franklin and Crozier ;
and which streaming along the eastern shore of Green-
land destroyed the ' ILinsu ' of the Itist German Arctic
Kx|)edition.
As our oidy hope of |)ushing north against the
general set of the cun-ent through sudi ice (to siiy
nothiiii'" of the extreme hazard of remaining in thi;
pack) consisted in regaining the shore, both boilers
were lighted and full steam ke])t ready in order to take
innnediatc advantage of any oppoi'tunity that might
arise At 10. oO p.m., the pack, which ])reviously had
been drifting in a com])act body to the scmthward, eased
a, little near the edge of the large and deep-floating
Hoes, in consequence jvrobably of a difference in speed
between the surface and underciUTent, but before we
were al)le to clear away a space of water at the stern
sufficiently large to enable tlu; rudder to be 8hij)ped,
the ice dosed and obliged us to dismantle aijain. A
second time at 11.30 i\
just
top
the ])a(l^ showed signs of opening, but after moving
tl e ship lialf her length ahead, we were again obliged
to unship tJie riKuk'i
Idi
I87r)
iii;tii{\ ro lincoi.n i-.ay.
:a
Fully e.\[)('('tiiiu" ;i cliiiiiiic willi iIki ilood-tidi' on the
iii()i'iiiii_if ol' the ,'>lsl, wiili imicli l;il)()iir u woi'Uiiig
space was cleared under the stern, hut owiii^" to the
I'udder being badly btdanced we neaiiy lost oiu' oppor-
tunity. At 9.^^0 A.M., (hn'iuii; a momentary slackening
of the ice, Avitli steam up to its greatest pressui'e, we
commenced to move. \W going ahead and astern
alternately, the ship formed an ever increasing water-
space and at last ])ushed her way to where the ice was
moi'e oj)en, and shortly afterwards entered a narrow
water-channel Avhich led to liincoln Bay.
Few occurrences are more trying to the temper of
the commander of an Ai'ctic sliij) than an accident
which prevents him taking immediate advantage of a
niomentary cliange in the ice, on which the success
or failure of an expedition may depend. Ifad the
shipping of the rudder delayed usanolhei- five minutes,
the ship would in all ])i'oba,l)ility have I'emained in the
T)ack dui'ing a heavy ijale which shortly after set in
from the south, and continued for two days.
When in the pack, I regretted that the slii]) ^vas
not near a floe to which we might have escaped in
case of being nipped ; for although a large one was
within a quarter of a mile of us, such Avas the rugged
state of the broken-up intermediate ice, that had the
ship been destroyed, it woidd have been quite impos-
sible to have ti'ansported any provisions or stores to
it, even had we succeeded in reaching it ourselves.
After our late escape all could appreciate Ca])tain
Buddington's recommendation, when the ' Polaris ' was
placed in precisely similar circumstances, to get out of
the Polar pack as quickly as possible. It is either
lai
■-# 'I'
m-^if
12G
voVAffi'; TO THi'; vni.wi ska.
Si:PTi:Mni:K
I' i„
! .1'
• 'if' '*■ 1 i
^K"
iirt'ectiitioii or want of kiiowlcdLTc that can lead anyone
seriously to reconiniend an alti'ni|)t being made to
navigate tlirougli such ice. I can answer for all on
board the ' Alerf ' having lx;en nuxst tliankfid again to
reach the laiiib
During \\\v. late struggle, as well as on many
])revious occasions, it was noticeable how futile the
edbrts of the crew were to clear away the iee, which
impeded the movement of the shi|) on the bow or
quarter, compared to the enormous pt)wer exerted by
the ship herself when able to I'ani her way between
the pieces even at ordinary speed. Thus, steamers are
enabled to penetrate through a broken-up pack which
the old Noyagei's, with their sailing vessels, necessarily
deemed impassable. At the same time there is a limit
to the risks which are advisable to be run ; no shi)) has
been built which could withstand a real nip between
two pieces of heavy ice.
Shoi'tly aftei' the shij) was secured in her former
])osition to the firm ice in Lincoln liay, the wind
gi-adually freshened from the S.W., blowing shghtly
off the land ; accomi)anied with a snowstorm and a
threatening appearance; of the weather.
So far as we could distiu'^uish through the snow
and mist, the main |)ack was driven by the gale to the
northward up the channel ; but knowing that it Avould
take some hours to produce a navigable passage past
Cape Union, I waited until the morning of September 1,
Avhen with steam at hand ready if requisite, we ])assed
up the straits, rimning before a strong gale, nine knots
an hour, between the western shore and the pack,
which was diiving quickly to the northward, at abont
1875
CAPE SJTIKHID.W.
TJ7
llirct' miles (listiiiicc fioiu tlu' hnid. I)V ii<h)|i. li;i\iiiLC
iirnvc'd in latiliitlc 82" 24' N., ;i iiuji'c' iiortlii'i'Iy
position than any vessel luul ever previously attiiiiied,
the ensign was hoisted at tiie peak amid ueneral
rejoicings.
With such a stroiiu' wind l)h)\\iiitj; oil" thi' shore we
enjoyed the j)leasing eiTtainly ot" not being again
stopi)ed by ice so long as the land e(^ntinued to tiio
northward. We tlierelore iiad Ncry sanguine hojX'S
ihat we should at least attain to latitude 84" 20' N.,
ihe re[)orted position of rresideiit's Land, without
another eheek. At I I'.M., we eame suddenly and
unexpectedly to a block.
On liauling to the westward, al what afterwards
])roved to be the northern entrance to Kobeson
Cliaiuiel and the. shore of the Polar Sea, the wind
headed us fi-oni the north-westward, and then died
away. The breadth of the water-chaimel also consider-
al.'ly lessened, until olF C'd\)Q Sheridan the nuiin pack
was observed to be touching the gi'ounded ice, making
farther ])i'ogress impossible, liuiming close up t(j the
end of the water-channel, the shi|) was secured to a
large floe which rested against the caj)e.
Tile weather at this time remained very misty
During a i)artial (4earance we observed every appear-
ance of land due north, and reasonably su})[)Osed that we
had rea(4ied Army Fiord of the ' I'olaris ' chart, and that
some local cause had prevented the ice being driven off
shore by the gale ; our stay \\as therefore thought to be
only temi)orary. At 2 P.M., finding that the ebb-tide
was setting towards the north-west, along the land,
and that in spite of it the pack was slowly nearing the
.^J
■,'iu
,%..
^
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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
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Hiotographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STR. ST
WEBSTER, NY. 14580
(716) 872-4503
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V()YA(iK TO Til]-: I'OLAU SIOA.
M;i'ii;Mm;R
1 1;
sliorc, I moved tlio sluj) to a more jirotected position
inside of some pieces of iee lying JiL'ronnd (lose lo the
beach.
Since entering Smith Sonnd I had remarked the
almost total absence of a continnons line of shore
hunnnocks similar to what is usnally met with in the
western channels of Lancaster Sound. Such a ridge, by
j)rotecting the .vater-space from disturbance that lies
betwx'en tlieni and the shore, admits of the f"ormation of
perfectly smooth ice.
The advai'taLre in sledge travelling of finding smooth
ice extending between th'^ shore and a Hue of outside
hunnnocks is incalculable. I therefore foresaw thai
when our .sledging |)arties had to journey along these
im])rotected shores, the daily distances travelled would
necessarily fall short of those accon]plished during the
Franklin Search Ex])editioiis.
In liobeson Chamiel, except in a few ])laces where
the clitrs I'ise j)reci])itously from the sea and afTord no
ledge or step on which the ice can lodge, the shore
line is fronted at a few ])aces distant by a neaily coii-
timious ragged-top] )ed wall formed by accumulated
ice ])ressed u|) by the ])ack on top of the original ice-
foot, and rising from fifteen to u})wards of thirty-live
feet high. Opposite the large ravines the water carried
down by the sunnner floods melts a way for itself
through the barrier and occasion.ally breaks the con-
tinuity of the wall ; but inunediately the pack ch)ses
against the shore with ])ressure, a newly formi'd pile of
ice is quickly raised and closes up the gap. Tlu;
debris brought down the valleys, being unable to
escape out to sea, is deposited inside of the ice-barrier,
wr,
THE 'ALEUTS' ANCIIORAfiK.
121)
ionniiifra raised IkwIi, wliicli, wliere tlie land is steadily
rising: and the incline of the shore ftivourablo, attains
ji coiisiderahli' thickness.
To the north of llobeson Cliannel, where the land
trends to tlie north-westward the coast line loses its
stee|> character, and nearCa|)e Sheridan tiie iieavy Volar
ice becomes stranded at a distance of one hnii(b»'<l t<)
two hundre<l vai'ds from the shore, foi"niin<j a border of
nnconi;«'cted mas'^es ol' ice from twenty to u|)\vai"ls of
sixty feet in hei^dit lyinjx a^n'onnd in from eiirlit to
twelve fathoms water.
(){]' an open coast, with no more |)rotection than
that aflbrded by such pieces of ice, the ^ Ah'rt ' was
fate<l to j)a.«s the winter. IMost jHovidentially dnrin*^'
the eleven months she Avas thus ox])osed we never
once exjx'rieiiced a pde blowinL*" towards the sliore.
■*•..*■> ■■'♦v I ;!■'
VOL I.
130
VOYAOIC TO TIIK POI.AU SKA.
Si:irKMUi;u
CILVrTER VII.
OAPE JOSKI'n HKNIiY -IIAI,I/S OliSEKVATlONS — SMUT I\ liY TIIK PACK
— HAWSON AND AI,I>1{1C11 START — MAKKHAM LKAVK.S Sllll' — NO
LAM) lO TUR NOIiTII — AI.PIMCH IfCTUIiNS— KKRIOUS OALK — MARK-
HAM's KE'IURN — ATTEMl'T TO I,KAVE KI.nlOlihMKi liKAC'Il — ACCIDENT
TO SCREW— FROZEN IN — DEI'AKTUKi: uV ACTUM N SEEDOE PARTIES.
r:
0\ the iilk'niooii of tlio 1st the atmosphere cleared
and eiia
noon
bled Coininaiider Markhani and myself to ob-
1 I
tain a view of the land towards the north-west from
ail elevated station.
'J'he coast line was observed to be <'oiitinuoiis for
about thirty miles, forming a bay bounded towai'ds the
west by the Uiiiled States range of mountains, with
Mounts Mary and Julia and Cape Jose])h Henry,
agreeing so well with Ca])tain Ilali's descri|)tion that
it was im|)ossible to mistake their identity. Their
bearing idso, although dilTering u])wards of thirty
degrees from that on the ])ul)lislied chart, agreed pre-
ciselv with his original report.
Tack-ice extended close in to Cai)e Sheridan and
along the shore to the westward, a pool of water being
left on the east or lee side of eiich |)n)jecting |)oint in
the l)ay ; which, however, the intervening ice efTectually
prevented our i-eaching. To the eastward the channel
bv which we had advanced was comnletelv blocked
Si)
CAPK JosKPii iii:ni;v
i:;i
l)_v llu' rctuiMi of the
icc'ML'aiiist the shore;
iiiid the shi|>, lyiiiL'
about OIK! liuiidrcd
and lifty yai'ds IVoiii
the hind, HL'ciired on
t]
ic insliori' si(
Ic of
of
.sonic liU'jic piece
stranded saU-water
ice — afterwards ap-
propriately teniied
lloebcrirs hy Captain
lu'il(K']i — ahhou<fli
in a fairly proti'cled
|)osition, was tlio-
rouL^ily einl)aved by
the |)a(
•k.
The late snow-
fall had completely
covere(
1 tl
le uina to
d t.
1 dei)lli of from six
to twelve inches
and the undulating
snow-clad hills, un-
marked by any very
prominent feature,
fonned aiiythiiiij but
laiid-
a ciieenn<£
sea IK
To the north-
war
d Avl
lere it was
thought we had ob-
f
132
VOYAGK TO TIIR POLAR SKA.
Skptembek
|V y
i
'<!;
II' '
served land, it was evident that none existed within a
distance of at least twenty miles.
During the evening, with a falling barometer, the
wind again freshened considerahlv from the south-
west, the drifting snow hiding the land from our
sight. In a, sudden squall the haw.'.ers by which the
slii|) was secured, carried away and obliged me to let
go a bower anchor ; but before tlu' ship was brought
u|) she had di'ifted outside of the barrier of floebergs,
from which the |)ack was again slowly retreating to-
wards the nordi-east, being driven oil' by the gale.
I naturally expected that a water-channel would
ojHMi alongshore by which we might advance, but
nothing of the kind occurred; for although a mag-
nificent sea two miles in breadth formed abreast of
our ])osition, in Avhich a light southerly swell foning
its Avay \\\) Eobeson Channel was ])erceptible, yet
the j)ack remained jH-rsistently locked against Cai)e
Sheridan, only a mile and a half to the north-west of
us. Even with the ebb-tide, no ofishore movement
occurred, the ice being evidently held tight by some
opposing ])ressure of wind or current.
At work during a greater ])ortioii of the night, Ave
fully a])])reciated the advantages wo enjoyed by the
sun being still above the northern horizon at midnight;
in more stmthern Arctii- latitudes it had long since
ceased to be light at that time.
On the morning of the 2nd the wind shifted
suddenly from S.W. to N.W., causing the ship to drift
in amongst the floebergs, and driving the pack rapidly
towards the shoi'e.
The barometer having indicated the ])robability of
u change occurring, steam had been kept ready, and
mag-
i
■f :!
ti I
m
o ?
1875
SUDDEN S(iUA[,L.
after a coii^'idcriiltlc iiinoiml ol" niMiiODiivrin^ \o clear
the eal)K' IVoiii the heavy ice al)()Ut wliicli it had
l)C('()nie eiitaiiiiied, thi' sliip was ii'iiiuved IVoiii her
exposed position.
The j)roteeted space available for shelter was so
contracted and shallow, the entrance to it so small,
and the united force of the wind and flood-tide so
powerful, that it was witli much lahoui" and no tiillinu-
expense in broken liiiwsers that the ship was hauled in
stern foremost. It was a close race whetlier the ice or
the shi|) would be in first, and my anxiety was nuich
relieved "when I saw the ship's bow swin<^' clear into
safety just as the advancin<i^ edge of the heavy pack
closed in against the outside of our friendly barrier of
ice.
From our position of comj)arative security the
danger we had so narrowly escaped was strikingly
a])i)arent as we gazed with wonder and awe at tlie
lK)wer exerted by the ice, driven past us to the east-
v;ard with irresistible force by the wind and flood-tide
at the rate of about a mile au hour.
The ])rojectiiig ])oints of each passing floe which
grounded near the shore in about ten fathoms of water
would be at once wrenched ufT from its still moving
parent mass; the pressure continuing, the several
])ieces, frequently 30,000 tons in Aveight, would be
forced ii]) the inclined shore, rising slowdy and majesti-
cally ten or twelve feet above theii' old line of flotation.
Such pieces quickly accumulated until a I'amparl-like
barrier of solid ice-blocks, measuring about two
himdred yards in breadth and rising fifty feet high,
lined the shore, locking us in, but efTectually protecting
us from the overwhelming power of the pack.
i
1
f
,td
K
:><■ I
%
i;u
VOYAOK TO rilK I'OLAU SI:A.
Si;iti;miii:u
11
Duriiiif llic jiritTiioon tlic wind was lijilif IVoiii tlic
iiortli-WL'st, l)h)\viiij^ aloii;^ llic land with a heavy siiow-
i'all. So far as we could sec lliroiii^'h the snow I Ik;
pack drilli'd towards llic north-west with llie cbl)-tidi',
and towards the soutli-east with the Hood, ojuMiin^'
sii'ditlv oil' siiofe in onr iieiLrhbourliood with the
lornier, but, as before, never leaving; Ca|)e Siiei'idan.
'I'iie ht!avy fall of snow inixinij^ with the salt in the
water considerably (piickcned lli^o formation of llu'
yomi}^ ice, and beft)re the evening it Avas so thick we
weri! scarcely al)le to conuniniicate with the shore by
boat.
'i'he tempei-ature had fallen to IS", our lirst ex|)eri-
ence of decidedly cold weather.
While walking on shore my anxiety concerning
the security of the ship's ])ositi(m was somewhat re-
lieved by observii'.g that although to the eastwai'd and
westward numerous heajjs of gravel had been forced
up above the high-water line by the ice-pressure, yet
iu our innnediate neighbourhood the beach was ])er-
feclly free from any such marks.
The rise and fall of tlu' tide Avas observed to be
very slight and denoted a great change in the coniigu-
ratioii of the shore line ; it proved unmistakably that
we had |)assed out of a narrow channel and had entered
the Polar iSea.
For the three following days we ex])ericnced light
westei'ly winds, with the tem|)erature ranging between
18° and 8°. The ])ack remained always close against
the coast, moving along the hind with the tides, but
drifting on the whole towards the south-east. Pools
of water half a mile long by a quarter broad formed on
Wv \
iw7r>
I,AM) rilOVlSIONS.
1 ;!:)
iIk' south-east side of the liii'L'cr llocs, hut llicy were
always (•om|)I('t('ly isolated IVoiu each oUkt by si'vui'al
miles of heavy ice.
Althoii^di a few lar^ie floes could bo distinguished
ill tlu! o(liii<r, the pack within five miles of the land
eoiisisted usually of floes less than a mile in diameter
intermixed with a very lar<rc |)ro|)ortion of i-iibbU" iee.
The newly formed iee was stronjj enoiiLdi to bear us
on the 4th. At midni<:ht, on that d;^e, the sun sank
Ik'Iow the north horizon.
Althou«rli all rejinlar navi^jation was now a|)|)arently
at an end, I was naturally most anxious to move tlu^
slii|) fi-<mi her exposed |)osition before the setting; in of
winter; but the quickly advaiiein<;f season warned me
that no movement should be made without a reason-
able ])robability of attainiiiLr a sheltered situation.
Aecordiiifrly, Commander Markham and Lieut. Aldrich
started on the 5th to look at a bay about eiLdit miles
distant to llie westward. On their return they re-
jiorted that it was a well sheltered har])our, thickly
coated with newly-formed ice, but that the continuous
wall formed by the m'ounded floeber<;s across its en-
trance would eflectually prevent our entcriiifj.
After this ie|)()rt I decided to commence landinji;
such provisions and stores as were hamperiiiLr the
decks of the ship and whicli would not bo required
durinji the winter should we fortunately be able to
move into safer quarters.
Five eider dueks were shot on the 5th, and a flock
of |)tarmigan seen in a valley three miles to the south-
east of our position near Cape Rawson. This headland
was named after Lieutenant Eawson, who belonged to
i
I
\(jy.u;k tu tiik ii)i.aii ska.
SiwrcMHint
I
.! I
%,;
the ' Discovery,' l)iit w;is llicn on boiird llic 'Alert,'
:iii(l WMS (lesliiied willi liis sli'dj^'e-erew to pass tliu
u iiilei- oil Ixiid'd of lliat slii|).
'I'lie lorinidiihle iiature of tlie I'olar pack, so
diHereiil in its eliaracter to that I had l)eeii accustoined
to ill my |)rior Ai'ctie, experieiiee, iiatiii'ally caused iiii'
}j;reat solicit ikK'. The foIlowiiiL,' in reference to it is
extracted from my journal of the otli : —
' 'I'his moniii^ra Hoc about a mile in extent, flout in<»
at least four feet out of water at its lowest jjiirt, was
passiiii^ to the eastward. It is the first piece »)f Polar
ice fit for traveliin<^ over that we had seen. The main
l)ack that is usually pjissin;,' oui' position, as far to sea-
ward as we can ohsei've, is simply impassable for sledges.
What it may l)e in the spriii<; when the snow bunks
have levelled oil* some of the irregularities remains to
be ascertained. At presi'iit it is quite out of the (ques-
tion venturing u|)on it. Our hope is, that the land will
extend towards the north, and so enable the ship or
sledges to gi't along near the shore. Whatever our
travellers do, the work nnist not l)ecom|)ared with our
former Lancaster Sound level floe travelling, the road
is so totally difl'erent.'
On the Gth we commenced di'agging the |)rovisions
and stores to the land on sledges over the newly formed
ice. The casks j)iled one ou the other formed tlu;
sides of a long shed, which was covered by one of the
large sails ; it was named Markham Hall, and after-
wards formed a valuable storehouse during the winter.
In my journal I remark : ' The tem])erature remains
at 12°, so in 8j)ite of our (.'X|)osed position I have
decided to winter here ; indeed the ship is now so firmly
\k7'}
A lli:.\VV KALI- Ol' SNOW,
l;;i
IVozi'ii ill tliiit I Iiiivi' ii(» ()|)tioii Icl'l inc. lioctor Moss
t^liot :i li'H' liJirc hisl >iiii(l;iv: lliis is the on
th
ilv
IL'II
of jL'iiim' Ix'loii^niiL'' lo llir iM'i<jii!)()iirli()<)(l wliidi li:is
Ix't'ii seen ; indeed, llie iindni;iliii_!i hills slrelr|iiii<4
;i\\:iy lor ji dozen iniU's ;ire, ;i|)|)iireiill\ , |)erjeclly Imre
oi" iinytliiii^' likely lo iilliiicl Lrnine lo \isii us; ;i lew
liollows ;ire ve^'eliiled, l)nt very spaiiii^dy so.'
Il was vexiiiLj to observe, iis we procet'ded noriliuard
through Smith Sound and Ivoheson fiiaiinel, lla: the
number of seal mot witii grachially decreased We liail
(lej)eiide(l upon a su])|)ly <»!' these animal for the -uii-
port of our dogs, and now th ir total abseiiee led
iiiu reluctantly to the conclusion that wt' could not
])ossibly |)rovi(le for all of these useful auxiliaries
duiiiig the winter. Nothing having the appearance of
meat came amiss to them, but they stedfastly refused
to eat the dog biscuit of which we had a small
(juaiitity.
For three days previous to llie 8th we exjx'ricnccd
a heavy fall of snow. On the 2nd wt' had noticed how
snow falling on the salt water quickened the formation
of young ice. ]5ut after the ice was once fonneil it
was noticeable how the snow tends for a time to retard
Its increase ni
thick
ness.
When the young ice, three to four inches thick,
became unable to sup|)ort the accumulated wi-ight of
snow two feet in depth, it was borne down until the
water j)ercolating ii|)wards had risen three inches
above its level. The snperficial covering of snow then
afTorded such excellent ])rotection that although the
temperature
of tl
le uu'
was 15°, the water remained
unfrozen, its temperature behig 29°. Fhiding that the
m
;*'i-si,i
;!'
"' 'lit
I
^1
1.^8
VOYAOE TO THE TOLAR SEX.
SKPTKSinKR
. ■;;:!!!
'. M
\ '
I !
iilr
m
ice below the snow uiid water was actually meltiiiir,
we were obliged to cease dragging the heavily laden
sledges between the shij) and the shore.
Though I did not expect any decided movement of
the ice to occur during the nea])-tides, yet before de-
spatching any travellers to a distance, an ample depot
of ])rovisions was landed for their su])port in the event
of accident hai)i)eiiiiig to the shij), which at the time
I considered highly |)robable. These arrangements
having been completed, Lieutenant Eawson with seven
men started on a ])ioneering journey towards Eobeson
Channel. On the 9tli, Lieutenant Aldrich with three
sledges and twenty-four dogs, accompanied by Captain
Feilden and Dr. Moss, started to explore the land
towards the north-west.
Lieutenant Eawson returned on the 10th, having
found Cape Eawson im])assable by land on account
of the steepness of the cliffs, and by sea in conse-
quence of the continual movement of the pack which
prevented him ventming on it, even with a boat.
At Floeberg Beach, as the land in the vicinity of the
ship was now named, a westerly wind blowing offshore,
force 4, combined with an ebb-lide, opened, for the first
time since our arrival, a narrow channel extending for
half-a-mile beyond Ca])e Sheridan. On the 11th, the
same wind continuing, the channel widened out until it
was a mile broad, and extended for six miles to the
westward, but ended two miles distant from the shore.
As this offered an o])])ortimity of advancing a large
depot of ])rovisions and boats to the northward. Captain
Markham started with a strong party of men ; having
lirst to draw the boats across the heavy barrier of ice,
1875
ABSENCE OF NORTHERN LAND.
J 39
•within which the shi[) was sealed up, apparently frozen
in for the season.
The sky being fairly clear, we were able to set
at rest all doubts concerning the northern land re|)orted
to exist by the 'Polaris' Exi)edition. As seen lln'ough
light haze, the dark retlection in the sky above the de-
tached pools of water in the offing gave a veiy decided
apj)eanince of land when there was a niinige, but after
a constant watch, and carefully noting the movements
of the darkened patclu's, I was obliged reluctantly to
admit that no land existed to the northward within
the limits of our vision.
The absence of any visible land to the northward
was extremely discouraging, and the ice that lay
before us was of such a nature as to convince me, or
any person acquainted with Arctic navigation, that it
would be most unadvisable voluntarily to place a shij)
in it. The following extract from my journal of the
11th expressed my views at the time, and I had no
reason to modify them afterwards : —
' It is perfectly evident that the report of " open
water " having been seen towards the north from the
deck of the " Polaris," when she attained her highest
latitude, meant merely that discomiected water-])Ools
were observed, but not that a water-channel lit for
navigation existed. In Lancaster Sound or l^affin's
Bay a water-pool in the pack may, inider favourable
circumstances, be expected to open out and l)ecome
navigable. Here with this decided Polar ice, it is out
of the question that any commander should leave the
shelter of the laud, and force his way into the ]mck
without insuring a retreat if necessary. The term
idl
!>• Ill
ii film
I
I
I «2
,
i\
111
!iii
1»»l
)ii
1.
F;:!i
'-ill
140
VOYAGE TO THE POLAll SEA.
SEl'TEMHKn
" open water " is extremely vague. It should only be
used to designate navigable water ; when water-pools
are spoken of, an estimate of their extent should be
ujiven.'
In order to register the temperature of the earth
throughout the winter, a thermometer was buried to
the depth of eigliteen inches and then frozen in. This
was the extreme de])t]i to wliieh we were able to
sink a hole in the solidly frozen groimd, after three
days' labour. On our arrival at Floeberg iieach we
found a steep bjink of a previous season's snow resting
against the northern slope of our look-out hill, which
was 480 feet above high-water mark. Similar patches
were observed in other sheltered positions, showing that
the snow near the sea-level, as well as that on the hill
tops, did not melt entirely during the previous summer.
The 12th brought in a calm day with a temperature
of from 4° to 8°. After divine service, when we took
the opjioriiniity publicly to return thanks to God for
our preservation during our past dangers and labours,
I walked with some officers to Cape Eawson to see the
state of [iffliirs there. The ice was piled up on the ice-
foot to a mean height of about thirty feet, with an
uneven pointed summit, quite useless as a road for dog
or man-sledge. Inside this icy ridge soft snow had col-
lected in undulating banks resting against the cliffs, but
with such steep sides as to necessitate a portage being
made before they coidd be passed by sledge-travellers.
Wishing to obtain a view of the ice in the offing,
Eawson, Giffard, and I ascended half way up a steep
snow-slope in a gully on the east face of Cape Eaw-
son. Pressing upwards incautiously, it became less
Im
I (.
1875
KETURN OF LIEUT. ALDRICII.
141
tlanf.'erous to go on than to deseend ; we were indeed
fortunate in at last reaching the summit of the cape.
I frequently looked at the ])lace afterwards, but no
one ever again risked his neck there.
The ice in Robeson Channel was observed to be
tightly i)ressed against the shore, with a few discon-
nected pools here and there in the offing. In the
neighbourhood of the ship the pack had again <-losed
in against the floebergs.
On the evening of the 12th, Lieutenant Aldrich's
party returned after an absence of four days. lie
had succeeded in establishing a depot of ])rovisions
and exj)loring the coast-line for a distance of twenty
miles to the north-west. The travelliii<r, owiii<j to the
very rough state of the ice, and the dee[) snow with
its sticky wet foundation of sludge, was found to be
unusually heavy ; indeed, so bad was it that although
oiilv laden with half wei<?lits, all three slediies broke
down. The few [)atclies of young ice met with were
too weak and treacherous to ])ermit sledges being
drjigged over them ; one sledge broke through and
was only recovered with much difficulty.
With the fall of tem])erature that part of the
lower deck which was at a distance from the galley
fire l)ecame damp, but this was at once remedied by
the fitting up of an extra stove.
On the loth and 14th we experienced a strong
gale from the south-west with a heavy snow-drift and a
low barometer ; the temperature rising to 20° and the
j)ack drifting away from the land towards the north-
east, leaving a clear water-channel along shore.
On the morning of the latter day the gah? was
112
^■OYAGE TO THE POLAIl SEA.
Septembku
; ''
f 1 1 '§
.III
1i ■!
blowing from off the land, with a decided swell com-
ing uj) Eobeson Channel, indicating much o])en water
to the southward. From the look-out hill, M'hich I
ascended with difriculty in consequence of the strong
wind, I observed a -water-channel leading for ten miles
towards Ca])e Jose])h Henry, but the land-i(;e was
still clinging to the shore as persistently as heretofore.
By 10 A.M. the swell commenced breaking up the
ice inshore of the ship, and we had barely time to get
the boats which had been landed on l)oard again, before
the ship was left in clear water, all the light ice and
some of the heaviest pieces near us being diiven to sea.
During the height of the gale live men in a whale-
boat mistook their orders, aud left the shi|) to pull
to the shore, but being unable to reach it were carrl<:d
by the Avind to seaward. Eortimately the boat was
brought u]) against one of the floebergs, about two
hundred yards distant from that against which the
ship rested. The gale was. then blowing so furiously
that the men were unable to cross the intermediate
channiil. After much work and great anxiety, we
succeeded in ivscuing them from their dangerous
})Osition, by veering another boat astern with a long
line and making the distressed men do the same with
a roj)e they fortimately had in their boat. Then by
sheering the two boats towai'ds each other they met,
and the wearied and half fro/en men were rescued.
In the evening it continued to blow fiercely, with
a blinding snow^hil't mixed with sand and smaM pebbles
which were carried by the fury of the storm. While
thinking anxiously over the condition of our travellers
during such a gale, 1 observed Connnander Markham
i!
it
1876
ro.MMANDER MATtKIIAM RETURNS.
]43
Oil the shore abreast of the shi|). Ahlioiigh we were
so close to the land, it was ouly by double inarming
the oars of the cutter that during an o])|K'rtune lull
Lieutenant Giffard was able to establish a hauling line
between the sliij) and the shore, and so coininunicate
with Markhain. It a])|)eared that his i)arly had started
in the morning with a moderate wind blowing ; at
mid-day the gale rose, and they ])itched their tents Avith
dilHculty on a heavy floe. Shortly after tenting, this
floe commenced to break ii|) and the jiarty had to beat,
an immediate ivtreat to the shore, fortunately crossing
the cracks with all their effects before the ice moved
away from the land. One man then became so greatly
disabled from exhaustion that Markhain decided to
carry him to the ship. Having reached a ravine that
afforded some slight shelter, he tented the main ])arty,
and selecting one sledge-crew to drag the sick man,
he hhnself pushed on in advance.
Though desirous of returning to his sledge-])arty
and invalid, knowing his fatigued condition I despatched
Lieutenant Giffard and the crew of the cutter to assist
the tired men.
After an hour's search in the snowstorm they met
the party, and, at midnight, by using the cutter's line
as a hauling rope, we had the satisfaction of seeing
the sledge-crew ferried across, and the frozen man's
life saved. This sledge-crew, who luid faced tlie storm
to save their comrade's life, were all so much exhausted
that they did not recover themselves for three or four
days.
With the morning of the 15lh the wind luHcd con-
siderably, and the remainder of the travellers, under the
:)
I I
' m
•■ ■ ;l J
!:'!,
■ I'l
%
n
lit
i[;l
i
at .
lis II-
m
144
VOYAr.E TO THE rOLAR SEA.
RKm;MHKR
romiiiantl of Lieutenant Parr, returnetl, having ]iasse(l
anything but a ])leasant time in their tents during the
gale. On as(;(.'n(ling our kx)k-out hill, I observed that
the iee to the -westward between the land and the
channel in the ])iU'k had drifted to seaward, leaving a
clear road by which we could adviince to a ])lace of
shelter. Making a signal to the ship, steam was im-
mediately got ready and the rudder ship])ed, but on
lowering the screw we found it inij)ossible to enter the
shaft. While raising it again to clear away the ice a
thick snowstorm came on with i\ blinding mist Avhicli,
hiding everything from view, ])revented our movinj .
Before midnight the gale was blowing as fui'iously us
ever.
During the night the sea breaking against the shore;
became so dis(;oloured by the stirred u[) mud that the
snow-covered beach over which it broke was darkened
to such an extent that from a distance we mistook it
for the gravel coast-line. On visiting the shore we
picked up a few ])ieces of seaweed {Lamhidria) that
had been cast up, Jind found that the salt water at a
temiKTatiu-e of 29° washing over the snow-bank had
solidified it into hard ice.
The barometer rising on the IGth, I tried to con-
nect the screw ready for a run along X\\<i land im-
mediately the gale lulled ; but when the screw-shaft
only wanted an inch of being fixed, the n.. het lever
became damaged and the shaft could not then be
mo\ed either in or out. So strong was my desire to
reach what I ho])ed would prove a moi-e protected
place for wintering, that for a moment I thought of
proceeding under sail ; but Ave were so henmied in by
1876
ACCIDENT TU SCREW.
145
the ire that I was obliged to give ii]) the idea of
attempting to beat to windward towards an iineertain
liaven and along the edge of a pack, to enter which
would have been certain de8tru(-tiou.
The forenoon was spent by me in frequent and
long visits to the engine room anxiously watching Mr.
Wootton re|)airiiig the raciiet. It was not com|)li'ted
before 11. oO A.M. ; on then ]"aisiiig the screw tlie hole;
which receives the end of the shaft was found j)higged
with ice, which was so hard and so much discoloured
by rust that when first taken out we all thought that
it was the end of the shaft itself which had broken
off inside tlu' screw. By the time the screw was
fixed and everything was ready foi" a start undei" steam
the pack was rajjidly nearing the land. At 2 P.M., it
had reached Cape iSheridan and eflectually closed us
in for the winter.
After this date the ice never left the shore to the
westward of our ])osition, although to tlie eastward
a large space of clear water remained betweeji us and
liobeson Chainiel whenever the wind prevailed tVom
the westward.
On examining the coast-line afterwai'ds, both
(luring the autumn and the following s|)ring, we dis-
covered that there was no harbour sufficiently oj)en to
receive the shi]), and that the ice at the entrance of
each.bav Avas far too thick for us to have cut or forced
our way through it before the j)ack would ha\e closed
in. The accident that ha]:)pened to the screw and our
consequent detention at Floeberg Beach, although
extremely annoying at the time, was afterwards con-
sidered by all a most fortunate circumstance.
VOL. I. L
,ii
■ :;
140
VOYAdK TO Til 10 I'OLAU SKA.
.SKlTKMBint
! ,rll;:'
u
hSil'
■ f-
"fl lilH'
:l|i U
1' ill:*
1 t['i''- ii!
'^r-h,
Diirin;^" tlic liitlcr |);irl of the gale, in udditioii lo
the bower ciihle lioldiiig tlie nhip, she wiis further
se(;ur(!d by a wire hiiwsiT |)iissed from tiie bow to u
second jiiiehor buried on shore. When laying it out
it was very readily handled in the cutter, and during'
the gide, iilthoughthe strands Hat tened in the sliarj) ni|)
at tlie hawse-hole, the wire cable held on admirably.
The following is extracted from iny journal : —
'In the evening, although a strong north-west wind
was blowing along the land, it i)ro(luce(l very little snow-
(b'ift in consequence of there being no more light snow
h'ft to fly. A large jujoI of water ivmains open ofl' Caj)e
Rawson, which, with this wind, will probably extend
as far south as Ca[)e Union. The day before the gale
connnenced we were preparing an observatory on shore,
but fortunately none of tlu' instruments were landed —
that is sup])Osing we are still successful in moving
farther to the westward into the bay found by Aldrich.
I fear we can scarcely expect another favourable gale
before the season is quite at an end. A long continuous
south-west wind is the only ])ower that will ever o[)eu
this ice. The " Polaris " liad a fortnight's continuous
westerly winds at the end of this month, her tmie of
full moon; so we may still have another chance. Were
the question of our advance to the north-west only to
gain northing, irrespective of any other consideration,
unquestionably I could gain ten or twelve miles ; but
at this advanced season other considerations have to be
thought of ; we must be quite sure that we gain a safe
wintering ])]ace. These hummocks can scarcely be
considered a desirable or sufficient protection for the
winter
I
1875
TiiK voIjAH pack.
147
'Some sti'|) should be taken lo <ziiar(l afjfaiiist llie
shaft beiii},^ jainined in the boss of llie screw by ice.
Mr. Woottou siijigests that a hoU' ini<,'lit be bored
through the centre of tiie shaft, througli wiiich u jet of
steam could be forced into the screw and the ice readily
melted.
' 17/A. — Barometer rising, temperature u|) to 30°.
Still blowing a fresh gale with squalls from the north-
west ; the [)ack ice close against Cai)e Sheridan. On
this side of that point and abreast of our |)osition a
narrow water-channel opens during the ebb-tide; but
with the iiood the pack closes in, moving very fast to
the south-east. Aldrich estimates its s[)eed at two
miles an hour, but I think one mile is nearer its true
rate. The gale conbined with the rise in tem])erature
has com])letely destroyed the young ice formed on the
inshore side of the iloebergs.
' Last night, so heavy was the ])ressure of the ])ack,
I fully expected that our i)rotecting floebergs would
give way, and that the shi|) would be forced on shore.
The outer line of our defence was driven in foi" about
one hundred yards, but fortunately the inner line with-
stood die attack.
' One heavy Hoe, a fair sample of those com])osing
the [)ack, which we fully expected woidd carry all be-
fore it, just as it was touching our barrier, fortunately
took the LH'onnd itself in twelve fathoms water. Three
large pieces were then wrenched olT, and left behind
to add to our ])rotectiou. The heaviest piece aground,
half way between our ])osition and Ca])e Sheridan,
standing at least sixty feet high, has withstood the pres-
sure of the pack for the last ten days ; this morning
I, -2
148
VOYAGE TO THE POLAll SEA.
SKriEJlHEIl
lit;
.**
ir was tlirowu over on its side, brt'ukiiij^^ in two tmd
displiiyiiij,' ii fiiii' massive block of blue ict' the surface
of wliicii was twenty feet above water.
' iSt/i. — Tlu! thenuonieter last night rose to ,'UI°, a
most unusual occurrence, and the u|)|)er deck was in
a dri'adfully wet state from the sudden thaw. The
discoloured snow border at the high-wutei' mark on
sliore, which had been j)artially thawed, has to-djiy,
Avitli a fall of temperature, refrozen and now forms a
broad smooth ice-foot idong shore, veiy convenient for
walkinii; on.
' \\)th. — The tem|)erature having fallen to 15°, the
yoimg ice has formed again so rapidly that Markhani,
I'arr, Aidrich and I had great dilliculty in reaching
the shore in a boat. Fi'om the look-out hill not a
dro|) of water is to be seen anywhere. It is (juilc
impossible that a one-season doe can ever be {)roduced
in this sea. In a pi'otected position at the margin of
an ancient lloe, a small ai'ea of young ice might be
formed, but no large water-s])ace ever remains long
uncovered by heavy pieces of debris ice.
'The ice at Cape Jose])li Henry not leaving ihc
land with an otl'shore wind is a most remarkable
phenomenon. If it never does so 1 can only suppose
that the south-west winds blowing off the hmd are de-
flected by the United States range of mountains and
changed into westerly winds blowing along the coast.
' I have now no longer any donbt that Ave are
on the border of the Polar Sea. Few wonld credit the
great thickness of these Hoes, and uidess we had seen
our protecting icy barrier being formed out of the
brokcn-np sea ice, we might have rejjorted that it was
1H75 I'HMPA RATIONS 1<T)1{ AUTUMN TIJA VKI.MNO.
II!)
iiiiulc iij) of irclKTgs. Til coiiscquciicc of I lie ])ar('ii('ss
of the lund from snow, the diisl liiis liccii ciirric*! olf
bv tlu' wind, and luis discoloiiri'd all llic lloclu'ms.
Tliiis cvidcnlly accounts for llic dusi scdinicnl Icfl at
tlic l)ofloin of iIk' water pools on the siiiI'mcc of llic
lloi's, and for tliat frozen deeply into tlic ice.
'After three days of constant work, everyone
enjoyed to-day a well-earned rest.'
During tiie foll()win<f week tlie weather remained
ciilm with a clear atmos|)here, and the ship heoinie
firmly frozen in. rre|)arations were now made ior
the autumn tra\'elliii_L% each man finding full eniploy-
iiient in fitting his clothing and pre)>aringtlie necessary
sledge equijnnent. The light sails were unbent, the
niiininLj rii>«;in^ iinrove, and the ship made iis snujf
aloft as possible. The lieaAV Siiils were left l)ent to
the yards, and did not sufT'er in the least from their
exposure. Tlie shi|)'s ct)inpaiiy's mess deck was i-n-
larged considerably, and <'leared of all the stores and
provisions which had necessarily been stowed there
(luring our passage from England. The midship part
of the deck was j)re|)ared as the main entrance from
the up]X'r deck, and Avas also fitted as a worksIio|) for
the artificers and others. As a greater seciiritv auainst
possible danger, the powder was deposited in a snow-
house on shore.
Owing to the great iin]irovenient in slii|)s' galleys
since the time of ])revious Arctic ex])editioiis, the heat
of the galley funnel was found to be insufficient to
melt snow in sufficient quantities to provide a sujij^
of water ; an alteration was made in the tank for thc>
better, but throughout the winter, in both the ' Alert '
|:'%i
k-^'
MV^iil
III
iR
11
M' I
!■
^'ii
I
i ! .1
I '
»
m.
h'l
I;
|f)0
V()Y.\(Jl!) TO Till-: I'OI.AU SKA.
SlilTKMIIKH
and 'Discovery,' il wuh ncncHsarv to inclt ice in \\w.
coplHTs ill iiddilioii to the hiiuiII qiiiiiitily of water
ol)tiiiiial)l(; from the snow tanks.
J)iiriii;4 the (hiinp and variable wciillier, the do;^fs
snll'ered niiieli iVom ennnp, many ot" them having lils,
Their lavoiirile |)liiee lor lying down Wiis near the
Wiirm •J^alley funnel ; this heinj^f evidently not eondiicive
to heiilth they wei'e landed, with Frederick to take
care of them, until the ice formed siiincieiitly slroiifr to
enable our communicatiiiLf readily with the shore. So
anxious were they to return on bojii'd lh;it one was
drowned by brciiking thi'oiigh tlu; ice, and sevenil
narrowly eHcai)ed. During Lieutenant Aldrich's jour-
ney a dog ran away from the sledge in a fit on
Se|)te!nl)er 12 ; it returned to the ship on the 2()th,
niiturally in very j)Oor condition but a|)j)areutiy cured
t)f its dist)rder.
The darkness by night closed in with unusuiil
quickness. In high latitudes, though longer dehiyed,
the darkiK'ss increases daily with nuich greater rai)idity
than at positions farther south. A star was seen for
the first time since crossinir the Arctic circle at mid-
night of the 20th ; the sun behig then six degrees below
the north horizon.
With the object of exjiloring the land about Capo
Joseph Henry before the arrival of the main party,
Lieutenant Aldrich, Avith Frederick and two seamen,
Ayles and Simmons, started on the 22nd, with fourteen
dogs dragging two sledges laden with fourteen days
provisions. The dogs were allowanced at the rate of
two pounds of preserved meat daily. Michael, the
dog that had lately been absent on his own resources,
fV
is:.')
STAirr Ol" TIJANKLLINd I'AIMV
i:»l
belli}/. 'I williiij.' iiiiiiiiiil Jiiid ii j/()<m1 |)iill('r. w;is liiinicssrd
III Willi I lie I'csl
On llic iiioniiiiL'' «)1' llic '2(\\\\ ihc iiiiiiii ti:i\tHiiiLf
|i;irly w.'is rcudy lo sliirl, with tlicoUjcci ol" rsi.'iMisliiiit,^
!i (li'|)ot «)t' provisions iis l;ii* in jKKiiiicc lo llic iiortli-
\\(» SCM'll-IIUIII
wcsl as possible. The lore*' coiisisled of I
sledL'es and one eleNcii-nuin sledL'e, \iz., I he ' Marco
Polo,* 'Victoria,' and ' llerciiles,' under Coininaiider
]\Iarkhain and I,ieiiteiiaiils l^irr and May. and drawn
l)V twenlv-five .1:; tliev were provisioned for tweiitv
(lays. At 9 a.m., after prayers on the ice. ollicers and
men Htaiidin<jf round the sled<fes. they started oil' in the
best of spirits ; the sledo-cs, wei^ihted to 200 lbs. a man,
running easily o\'er the Irozeii I'oad on the top ol the
ice-foot. On reaching n place where it was necessary
toeross the young ice, Avhicii Avas only live inches thick,
the heaviest sledge, weighing 2,200 ll)s., |)roved to hv
too lieavy for it, and after proceeding for half a mile
successfully, broke through, \vetting most of the gear,
but fortimately not tlie men's clothes, lieturning to the
shi|) and e(|uipping a new seven-man sledge, I'arr
started on to overtake his companions.
The teni|)erature at niglit fell to one degree below
zero, but fortunately it remained calm.
During the 28th the few men left on board were
('ni|)loyed in lifting the chain cable from the bottom
on to the ice, to ])revent its being frozen in during
the -winter. A second cable Avns passed from the stern
to an anchor buried on sjiore. The officers were eni-
])loyed in making a survey of the neighbouring coast
and in consti-ucting an ()l)servatory.
On the 29th, at Floeber<r Beach and at Discoverv
"^'k
■rVi^.,,
152
VOYAGE TO THE POI.AR SEA.
OcTonER
Bay, a long spell of misty weather set in, with frequent
falls of snow, lasting until October 10.
Arctic scenery is naturally expected to be some-
what desolate ii' a|)pearance, but few are j)re|)ared for
thi' utter drejiriness whi(;h a long continuance of misty
weather with a snow-charged atmosphere produces.
No shadows or skyline being visible, no measure of
height or distance can be formed. The laud and the
ice-covered sea, masked alike with snow, are indis-
tinguishable, and present a foggy a|)pearance which
is only found to be unreal when some dark object
intercepts the view.
During the 30th I engaged in snow-house building,
with Lieutenant Eawson and four men. We were
emi)loyed four lioui's in constructing a dome-shaped
house eight feet in diameter, suffici(iuily large for four
men to lie full length, with not too much room to spare.
This was a very substantial building and lasted through-
out the winter. Doubt h'ss a lighter one could l)e con-
structed in nuich less time when hard snow is procur-
able ; but during half the Arctic travelling season hard
snow is not to be obtained in high northern latitudes;
and travellers un])rovided with a tent would fare badly.
Ca|)tain Hall, when travelling with Mr. Chester and two
Eskimo, Hans {ind Joe, near Newman's Bay, rehites
that on October 22, 1871, they were two hours and
foi'tv minutes buildinir their snow-house, nine feet in
diameter and five and a-half feet in height. This is n
long time to keej) tired men exposed to severe weather
after dragging a heavy sledge for ten or eleven hours.
■(. I'
1875
R.WVSONS SECOND STAllT.
]53
CHAPTER VIII.
RAWSON'S second SrART — ALURICU'S RETURN — HI9 .TOURNEV TO CAPR
JOSEPU IIEXRY — HEAVY SNOW-FALL — CONDITION OF THE ICE —
RAWSON RETURNS — FAILfTKE TO COMMUNICATE WITH ' DISCOVERY '
— MARh':rNM'S RETURN — FROST-BITES — RESULTS OP AUTUMN
SLEDG'XG.
Bkixo anxious to (•oniimiiuciitc witli Cci|)taiii Ste-
phei'son, if possible l)eror(3 the winter set in, I des-
patched Lieutenant llawsou on the 2nd of October
uitli liis seven men to inspect tlie ice in Eobesou
Cliannel and to ascertain if travelhng alonjj the coast-
ed o
line was yet practical)h'. Mr. E<^erton, who had ac-
companied Easvson for two mik^s, re|)orted on his
return that the new ice was still so thin that the sledge
was obliged to take to the land. I ilierefore could
scarcely expect that Rawson would make a successful
journey. In addition to tlie thimiess of the ;'oung
ice, the soft snow wliicli liad fallen (hiring th(^ five
previous days formed so great a ])rotection to the
Avater on the ice which had oozed tlirougii from the sea
below, that although the temperature had fallen to 8°
it remained unfrozen. The floe was consequently very
wet and afforded an extremely bad road.
During the 4th, the temperature remaining at 12°,
I was surprised to find that the falling snow crystals,
which are usually very minute at so low a temperature,
154
VOYAGE TO THE POLAIl SEA.
OcTOnKR
<:, • . i.i
were liirffc {iiid dowiiv, rcsemhlinsr tliosc which fall
when till' tein])('rature is near freeziiiuf point.
On the 5th, the Aveather was still as gloomy as ev(>r,
with thick snow falling In the evenind; Lientenant
Aldrich returned, with eleven dogs harnessed to one
sledjje on which his light gear Avas secured. Every-
thins else had been left a few miles behind to enable
him to reach the shi]) before night.
The dogs, sinking as they fi-equently did in the soft
snow u]) to their mu/zles, had ])roved to be nearly
useless, and but for the help of the men the sledge
would have had to be abandoned. The dogs had
suffered much from fits, one had been shot, and two
others had wandered from the [)arty Avhen tem])orarily
mad. Aldricji had succeeded in reaching Ca])e Josejih
Henry, and had sjient three days in exploring the
neighbourhood. The floebergs and rugged ice piled
directly against tlie ])i"ecipitous face of the cliffs, Avith
an extremely rough ])ack in constant motion, effectually
prevented sledges being di'agged I'omid the cape ; but
fortunately there Avas a fair prosj)ect of finding a
level road overland to the sea on the other side of the
cape in the s])ring. It Avas noAV too late in the season
for Markham to attempt it.
Connnander Markham's ])nrty Avere comnuuiicated
Avith on the 1st, six miles distant from the ca])e and
travelling toAvards it. The sledge crcAvs had all ex-
perienced very haid work, occasioned by the thin state
of the new ice havintj forced them to travel along the
land, to folloAV CA-ery indentation of the shore, and to
liaul the sledges across the hills at the back of the jire-
cipitous points. The fact that the travellers continued
: i!l|', r
I'll • I
18
i->
EXTK'ACTS FROM ALDKICns JOUUXAL.
15;
their ridvance at all uiuler tlieso circimistanccs will be
fully uj)j)reciatecl by Ai'ctic ex|)l()rers.
On the 27tli Sejiteuiber Aldi-ich had stuoceeded in
reaehiiiji latitude 82° 48' N., a somewhat lii_Ldier lati-
tude than had ever before been attained, our jrallant
I )redeceBsors, Sir Edward Parry, Sir James Koss, Dr.
James Beverly, Admiral Edward liird, and the cox-
swain Jaines Parker, in their celebrated boat-journey
towards the Xortli Pole from Spitsbergen in 1827,
having advanced a little beyond latitude 82° 45' N.
From the summit of a mountain 2,000 feet high
Aldrich discovered an apparently continuous coast-line
extending towards the north-west for a distance of sixty
miles to latitude 83° 7'N. with lofty mountains in the
interior to the southward. No land was to be seen to
the northward for at least eight or ten miles ; misty
weather prevented his seeing farther in that direction.
The following extracts from Lieutenant Aldrich's
official journal give a description of his journey : —
"f^ 'TC "TP ^W ^W
' September 22nd. — At 11 a.m. I left the shij), in
command of two dog-sledges, seven dogs in each, two
blue-ja(,'kets (Ayles and Simmons), and Frederick the
Eskimo. I arrived at Snow House Point at 4.20 p.m.,
having been delayed a great deal by several of the
dogs falling down in fits, no less than eight of them
being thus {ittacked, and two or three of them twice
or three times over.
*" September 2^rd. — Shortly after starting I was
ol)liged to cut one of Simmous's dogs adrift, and I was
constantly hamj^ered by fits as yesterday. I now had
thirteen dogs left. The second sledge gave way in
156
VOYAGE TO THE POLAll SEA.
0CT0HT!R
•I '
the runner, the tenons of the uprights from being fixtures,
make the sledge too rigid and do not admit of enough
freedom for passing the rougli ice. During the whoh^
of the time I was sul)sequeut)y away the sledges stood
exceedingly well, and among very heavy and bad ice,
th(! uprights being unsu])ported except by the lashings,
and the rumier being kept out in its jilace by a spare
batten used as a lever,
' Crossing Black Cliff Bay, there was a large patch of
new ice, with no snow on it, which evidently showed
where the heavy floes had S(>parated during the gale.
I sounded this with an ice-chisel and found it quite
strong enough to sledge over, congratuhiting mj^self
on the rapid ])rogress I was making towards the cliffs
ahend. My triumi)h was short-lived, for as we got
well into the middle, I observed the ice bending as we
proceeded, and just as I tui'ned round to order an alter-
ation of coui'se towards the old ice between us and the
land the second sledge broke through. Beyond the
discomfort of a d;im|) sleej)ing-l)ag and a stiff' lower-
robe, I am hap])y to say nothing of moment resulted,
though, from the dogs being very much frightened, it
was with sonu' difficulty we hauled the sledge out.
The ivmainder of the afternoon was jjassed in finding
our way ovei- and through the Inuninocks, with deten-
tions caused by the constant breaking down of several
of the dogs, one of which I had on the sledge the
greater jiart of the day.
' September 24/A. — On examining the dogs in the
morning, I found one so utterly useless and so ill, that
I gave orders to kill it, which reduced the number to
twelve. , •
r,!
■' 1 i1;
1875
EXTRACTS FROM ALDRICII'S JOUIIXAL.
157
' A fine morning, witli ji teniperatnrc of 21°, which
I sliould like to have seen lower, as I had nothing to
do but try and get across the new i(;e which had turned
me back yesterday afternoon. On reaching its edge I
divided the loads, and by making two trips succeeded
in getting over all right, the rumiers occtisionallv
breaking throngh.
' The dogs were free fi'om fits during the day,
which promised an improvement nuicli looked for.
' September 2bth. — Jiy aid of drag-belts and half-
loads the overland I'oute to Victoria Lake \/as accom-
plished, the distance being about a mile, but not
enough snow to render it easy work ; in fact, the land
was nearly bare, exce])t in patches, whicli we availed
oui'selves of as often as possible. On i-eaching the ice
with the first load, I found it to be a solid Hoc of
rounded hummocks, bare of snow, and of great age ; it
terminated in a sheet of clear, bi'autiful ice which I
doubt not is of this season's formation, and whicli was
about ten inches in thickness, and ovi-r nearly six feel
of fresh water. We a])])reciated the fact of our being
on a freshwater lake most thoroughly, and everyone
turned out to be thirsty.
'By 3.30 P.M. I had to cut another dog adrift, it
being far too constantly ill to do anything ; this left
five in one sledge and six in the other. It may ])erliaps
be thought more humane to kill rather than desert
dogs ; but I have found from exj)erience that some-
times they follow your tracks, and that they again
become useful ; and on my return to the ship last time,
a dog by name " Michael " went down in a fit within
a couple of miles of the ship ; he was cut adrift and
ts
■■■is
fVi;^
158
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
OCTOUEK
ii|W!l
nW,
i>fh^
t ■'
left on the iee, remained away some eight days, during
some of whieh a furious gale was blowing, and then
returned to do good serviee on the ])resent journey.
The only harm his absence seems to have done him
is to have given him an una])peasable a[)))etite, for he
is less ])arti('uhir in what he eats th.'i.n any other of the
creatures ; harness, ro|)e, leather-straps, hide-lashing,
painted canvas, &(•., have all suffered from his pecu-
liarity ; and on one occasion he investigated the
frozen contents of the metal ladle with such eagerness
that he bit a piece clean out of it two inches in length.
' On the 27th, accom|)anied ))y Ayles, I started off
from the tent, in a VV.N.VV. direction, and at noon
reached the siunmit of a hill near Cape Joseph Henry
about 2,300 feet high. The only difiiculty was the
snow, which was in some ])laces above the knees, but
the ascent was gencn'ally cas;f excei)t near the top,
which was somewhat steeper.
' The Aveather did not ])romise a very good view,
and as we got higher I found a dense mist hanging
some eight or ten miles from the land between N.W.
and N.N.E. Unfortunate in this respect, I was quite
the contrary in the ])lace of observation, for instead of
a long and undulating ])lain, which often disa})points
one on reaching what is vainly hoped to be the summit,
this ended abru])tly on its N.W. side in a ])reci])itous
descent of over 1,000 feet into the snow-clad valley
beneath.
' The hills innnediately beneath me ])]'evented my
.eeing the coast-line for some fifteen miles, but beyond
that I got a good view, and good bearing of two well-
defined capes.
•♦ihiJP
iK7r>
VIKW F1U)M MOUNT JIU.IA.
159
' Beyond theiii I saw no land, and as I rvatchcd for
over three hours, during [)ortious of wl)k:ii time I liad
good views through the fh-eting mist, I am inchned to
believe that no land trends to the northward, at all
events for a considerable distance.
' October l.s^. — Tem[)erature inside the tent 20° ;
snowhig heavily in the morning. About 8.30 a.m. it
partially cleared. The bag of biscuit and the remain-
der of our luncheon bacon had been left outside the
sledjre trough by mistake, and on <roing out of the tent
at 5 o'clock, I had the mortification of seeing that the
dogs had eaten all. FortunateU we had the provisions
for the day in the luncheon haversack, and the depot
I had left on the lake I knew I could reach in two days.
But I was obliged to give u[) a phiu I had intended
carrying out of going right round by the coast-line,
and endeavouring to determine the depth of tlie
different bays, &c., with more accuracy than can be
expected when taking short cuts amid heavy hunnnocks.
At about l.r.O P.M., I heard, " one, two, three, haul ! "
and I knew I was somewhere in the vicinity of
Commander Markham and his ]iarty. From the top
of a hummock I found them about a mile distant,
making standing pulls across very l)ad ice, in the direc-
tion of View Point. Having attracted their attention,
we altered course towards one another and connnuni-
cated. The route by which I had come being easier
than that which they were tjd\ing, was adopted by them,
but long after we had parted, the " one, two, three,
haul ! " showed me that they had not got through the
short distance of bad ice previous to getting on to the
ice-foot south of View Point. Conuuander Markham
tilt
IGO
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
OCTOBKR
i|.
• I t
1|r.:
! I.: •!
V'i [
Ml', '>''
r<.!])()rted all well, in good s|)ir'is, und "' working
splendidly," but tluU he had found the travelling ex-
ceedingly heavy, and had been obliged to resort to
standing ])ulls for the best part of three days.
' We parted about '^.30 p.m., and half an hour after-
wards, while eating our luncheon, I saw the Commander
struggling back. He had brought us some rum which
they could si)are, to fdl up the deiiciency caused by our
leaving the ship with eight days' for three men, instead
of fourteen days' for four men ; we fully appreciated
this kindness on his j)art.
' On the 2nd the weather was foggy, with snow
falling. I steered by coni])ass across the bay, making as
straight a course as j)ossible by mai'king hummocks.
The increase of snow had entirely altered the appear-
ance of everything, and what a})pe{ired before as very
hunmiocky ice now looked like a level floe. It was
im])ossible to ])ick a I'oad, and very slowly we strug-
gled on, sometimes coming suddenly against a. hum-
mock, and at othei' limes falling hel})less]y into dee|)
holes.
'I picked uj) my dc|)6t at the enti'ance to the lake,
and ])ushed on to it, having been looking forward to
tret water from it for luncheon. The hills at the sides
of the ravine, and the ravine itself, were knee-deep in
snow, Avhere scarcely any lay when I passed before ;
the clear and ])olished floe was covered, and we had a
little difficulty in finding out the ])osition of our former
water-hole. A pick-axe soon brought us to beautiful
water ; the ice seemed to have increased in thickness
about two inches, or perha])s a little more. While
draw'ins some water Frederic:k noticed some fish
187')
SOFT SNOW.
IGl
moving about ; on going 1o invest igato I saAv sonic
small ones, about six inelies in leiigtli, swinnniiig
dose under the iee in the liole. I dropjx'd ])ie('es of
biscuit in to see if they would eat it, but they took no
notice of it. However, I had a good Iiour before nie
during luncheon, and I was very anxious to ciitch ii
specimen. This I did with the aid of a bent pin and
a small piece of bacon. In an hour and a-half I got
three of them. They proved to be a kind of cluirr,
which I ])acked in snow and brouglit on board. All
the fish seemed to be much of the same sizi', and I saw
none larger than those caught.
' October Mh. — Snowed a great deal during the
night. I vainly imagined on starting we should be on
board in the evening. Steering by comi)ass ihrougli a
thick fog, I went as nearly straight ;is I could. After
luncheon we manned the drag-ro|)es, and worked with
a will to get on board ; but the dogs were quite done
up, and insensible to })ersuasion of every kind, some of
them actually dozing off as they sat in the snow ; so
jigain we had to ])itcli the tent at a distance from the
sliip as far as I could judge of about live miles.
' October hth. — Breakfast at 8.15 a.m., and under
weigh as (piickly as ])ossible. Veiy thick and snowing,
calm. The travelling not at all the better for last
night's snow. Made small ])rogress, so cla])ped on the
di'ag-behs ; and, iinding that the dogs did not keej)
steadily at their work, I shifted the princi])al weiglils
on to one sledge, harnessed all tlu' dogs to it, and the
blue-jackets and myself dragged the other one aliead,
thus clearini; the snow a, little for the dogs, who sank
sometimes above their muzzles in the soft snow. In
VOL. I. AI
■^1
r^
\i
1(12
VOYAGE TO TIIK TOLAU SKA.
OoTdiir.K
r/M
1 .
:i t
: i i 'I
It't
this wfiy we proc'ctHled till 1.30 P..M., when we liiiK.-lu'd
oil' the rc'iiiains of the l)i8('uit dust and frozen nieut, not
ciiriiig to wait lon^ enough to eook tea ; ■ '"ier which
we again set ofl", and, an there a|)|)eared no chance of
our reacliing the Hhi[) with both sh'dges, I |)a('ked one
with the tent, lower robe, coverlet, waterproof sheet,
|)ick-axe, shovel, and snow-saw, and left it on the far
side of the neai'est bay to the ship, about two and a
half miles distant. We now got on a little quicker,
DOCl-SLEnOE.
and in due course I rounded the i)oint, and arrived
on boai'd the ship about 8 p.m., finding the ice very
sludgy, but far preferable to what we had been travel-
ling over.
' Dogs are not of much use when the snow becomes
more than twelve inches deej) : they are frightened
and unable fairly to exert their ])ovvei-s. On smooth
floes they are very rapid, but where men have to lend
a hand, the unanimity of action which prevails in a
U....v*.ill
lfS7n
"Nvi-yr srATio of tiii', i-t^ok.
ir,3
iiiiiM-slcd^^fc is lost, and by no inraiis could we <it'l our
do;/s to luitd wlu'ii we did. 'I'liis iiiakcs tlic iMhoiir
UHicli ffi'CiiU'r, and it is not a^^rc 'cable to lind, on
looking' round at'tcr a hard strujiirlc in the bell to j_n't
the slc'df.,^' ahead, that some of the doi^s are not
liaulin}^% and the olhi'rs helpinjx ihein ; and yet ordi-
narily they do a very <freal di'al of work, and if nuieh
may be said a|iainsl them a ^n'cat deal may be said for
them.'
At rioeberg Beach on the Gth. The ice was
eight inches in thickness, above it was water one iiicli
in dei)th, five inches of sodden snow, antl on top of all
eight inches of dry snow. Owing to this accumulation
of snow on the young ice, it suddeidy broken away
from the shij)'s side, and sank about six inches, allow-
ing the water to flow over it to that depth, and render-
ing the surface extremely slo])|)y ; the water remaining
unfrozen notwithstanding the tem])ei'ature was at 14°.
On the 7tli we exj)erienced a strong breeze from the
westward, with snow falling and drifting to such an
extent as to hide everything from \iew that was more
than a ship's length distant. 1 was very thankful that
Aldi'ich and the dogs were safe on board, for the light
snow had collected in drifts as high as our hi})s. On
the land it nuist have been deeper, but our duties
did not call anyone in that direction. The U|)per deck
Avas so deeply buried that it became questionable
whether to house it over with the winter awning, but
closing it in too early meant shutting out the daylight
from below — a very serious loss.
Dinging the evening, the overcast weather clearijig
M 1>
i
i(;4
VUYA(JK TO TIIK POLAR SKA.
OCTODKH
If* If I' ii !
I r,!J.
slinliily, we ()l)t!iliK'(l ii monu'iitiiry ;j;liiii|)S(' of tlic liill-
l()|)s. Althoiifili so iniicli SHOW liad liillcii liili'ly, tlw
wind liiid swept llicm ('oiM|)l('U'ly bare, curryiiiji; tlu'
snow to the slu'ltcrcd slopes and (Hi to tlie sea ice.
I remarked in my j)urnal : ' StJi. — Lijiiit airs and
calms with snow. 1'lie iloe is in a most deplofahle
state; tlii' snow, two i'eet in thickness, covefs more
tiian one loot of wet s!ud.ire at a teinperatni'e of 27°.
It was with dillicnlty that we obtaint'd u sledjie-load
of ice from tlie uppei" sui'face of a lioeber*? about one
hnndred yards from the ship. A road was cleared for
a short distance with shovels, but as soon as the snow
was i-einoved the uncovered water a foot in de|)tli
above the iloe turned into sludire, but refused to free/e
hard. Matters were little bettei' on shore. After more
than half an liom''s stru^^gling over the soft snow on
my knees, I reached the (,)bservatory \vliicli was al)out
three hundred yards distant from the shi]), but T faiU'd
altou'ether to reach ' Markham Hall.' A road must be
shovelled awav before avc can comnuniicate Avith it
uidess we use snow-shoes. This soft snow and so long-
continued a fall of it is a new v'X|)erienc.e to Arctic
men. The German Ex])cdilion on the east coast of
Greeidand are the only ])e(:»ple who have met with
anytlung like it. Oui" travellers must be experiencino-
very hard work, but fortunately they have plenty ot
})rovisions. It is dillicult to say which is worse, the
soft snow or the continuous misty weather. The dogs
can do nothing in it, and it is quite impossible to put
them into snoAv-shoes.
' Yesterday's wind forced the ])ack off the land from
Cape Slieridan to Cape llawson, lea\ ing a, water channel
«li»
coMMKNci'] iiorsiMi riii: siiii' in.
J(
).)
from Iwo liiiiidrcd lo llircc liiiiidrcd v;irds hioiid, <)|)('ii
for
scvcrnl lioiii's.
Til
•k still works id()ii<rslion'
w
itli ciK'ii tide, hill docs not iiionc so (luickh' ;is it di(
I'
\)th. — This iMoniiiitr the uciithcf I
•kl;
IMS (•oiii|)lct('ly
clumped iiiid the tcniix'fiitiirc li;is liillcii to iniiiiis 10".
E\('i'y()ii(' fell jis il' ii wciLflit were hciiiLi' fciuoNcil ns
the mist rolled iiwiiy hd'orc ii li_Lihl northerly wiinh
giviiiu' |)1jic(' to :i cloudless skv. The tiii\cllcrs will he
very thiiiiki'iil tor the ch;iiiLre iiiid the lull in tciiipciii-
w
lure, for we in;iv soon cxix'ct ;i (h'V Hoc iiiid Inird siio
'The sun wjis seen :it Sli. 45m. A.M. for ;i few niiiiiitcs,
rising tihove the Grccnliind hills, mikI yet so sliuhlly i>
its |);ithwjiy inclined to the horizon thiit :it noon it wii>
not more thiiii one dcu'rec liiiili. 'I'hc hills south of us
heinjj; eleviited thi'cc (h'ui
CCS,
hid it comph'tclv from
view. It renijuned more th;in six hours ;il)o\(' the
horizon, iicjii'ly ns loiio- as (hiriiiu" the shortest d;iy in
Eimliind, in three dtivs it will \\\\\v left us ;dto<jcther
for tl
le winter
To-d;
IV we commenced hoiisinu' the
slni) Ml
he snow
Mccmnti
lilted
on the ii]i|)cr <
leek
durinji the Inst fall, has hceii levelled oil' ready to he
covei'cd with gnivel wlieii tlie housiiiji" is com|)lctc.
At mi(lni|Liht the uorthelMi sky Wiis (|uile hi'iiiiiit with an
oranui' tint whicli ut lirst was thoiiuht to lie an aurora,
but as tile sun was only ten dcui'ccs below the hori/on
it was certainly the rejected twilight.
' lO/A. — Wishino- to place a, dark objci-t on ra|)e
Sheridan to <.>-uide the slcdu-c lra\'cllcrs expected back
11
1 il d;iy or two, ii, cairn built of ca^
itl
Wltll il l)()l(
liius been erected there, which will \{\\v ihem somethiiijj;
to steer for sliould the misty wciilher return. In the
eveniufj the teiiiin'rature auiiiii rose iibove zero.
,t'i
m t*
'.J
'4m^
]LM,
1
KUJ
VOYAUI'] TO THE POLAR SKA.
OcronKu
I, '1
•'Ml
' 12///. — A stroiijjT wiiul blew from tlio iiortli-wo8t
<luriiig tlie ni.Lilit, l)ut it has turned out a truly ina_<;iii-
iieeut day. Not a particle of cloud or niidt in the
oi'a,n<>v-co1oured sky. At noon the sun, nearly at its
lowest altitude, was shiiiinjjf, on the southern slopes of
the Greenland Hills and United States Mountahis, and
jijildini*' the surmnits of the lofty hummocks three and
four miles north of us. It is as agreeable a contrast
to the late misty weather as anyone could wish for ;
and except for the sake of our absent travellers, "sve
should forget what is past. To-day I obtained astro-
nomical observations at tliis position for the first time.
On our first arrival here, no stars were \isible, and the
sun itself was at too low an altitude. Since it was dark
at midnight we have only seen one star and then only
for a few moments.
'DurinfT the iifternoon Rawson returned from a ten
days excursion to the southward, having, as I fully ex-
])ected, been uniible to force his way along the coast-
line Ijeyond a clilf about twelve miles from the ship.
He found the broken masses of ice forced up on top of
tlie ice-foot nnd resting against tiie cliffs, in many places
more than thii'ty feet high ; this and the accumulated
^ H'p snow-drifts fronting tlie valleys caused more than
usually hiborious travelling and fuially stoi)ped him
altogether. The ice in the channel was in constant
motion ; hence it was out of the question to trust his
])arty on it even Avith a boat.
' Having built a snow hut with much trouble caused
by the difficulty in obtaining hard snow — one of a chain
of huts whicli I lio]H' to construct for the use of travel-
lers journeying between the two ships — he passed the
1875
RAWSONS JOURNEY.
IG'
fr:iU' of the 7th in comparative comfort. The only draw-
l)ack was the lieat iiiskle tlie liiit, whicli rone; from 15°
outnide to 45° inside, and luitiirally melted the roof.
Ahlioiijxh the dooi and a ventilating hole in the upper
|)art of the dome were both open, the di'ip from within
could not be sto])|)ed.
• So soft and deej> was the snow, that on tlie return
journey the ])arty were obliged to cut a I'oad for the
greater j)art of the distance, and only travelled about
one mile a-day with a nearly empty sledge. On two
different occasions Rawson while travelling in Robe-
son Channel ex|)erienced strong southerly winds, while
at the more ])rotected jjosition near Floeberg lieach,
only a few miles distant from where he was, the
weather was nearly calm.
' loth. — Again ;i l)eautiful clear calm day without
a cloud in the sky. Walked to Cape Shei'idan with
Feilden in the ho])e of meeting the travellers, but we
were disap])oiuted. The snow-clad United States Range,
tinted a i)ink coh)ur by the sun, looked very grand.
' The strong wind on the 7tli having blown away
the snow-blanket covering the slopj)y floe, the cold
weather has at last been able to exert its j)ower. The
wind on the 12th removed what dry snow remained,
and to-day we have a haid fiDzeii surface of ice, at
which everyone rejoices. The u|)per surface of the ice
which was originally formed by the sea freezing, is now,
by measurement, buried ten inches below the snrface of
the present floe ; the salt water which oo/ed up through
the Aveighted ice ])roduced on mixing with the snow,
salt sludge ; this by freezing has added a stratum of
salt or brackish ice above the original upper surface.
4 m
1
i
;
1
7
1
'li
'' i '
ll
•il
''l
' i„.r
|i|
. li..-'
1
I;: 11'
if '
,*
u->\
IGS
VOYAGE TO THE POLAll SJ':A.
OCXOIIKK
Wlu'ii a heavy fall of snow occurs diirhig the autuniii,
ihiuiceis thus ever increasing in thickness su])eifi('ia]ly,
consequently any article Avhicli maybe left lying about
becomes frozen in and buried. An old floe beiiig able
to su|iport the weight of the suow, and not admitting
of ])crcolation from below, does not add to its upper
surface in the same maimei'.
'Ahhough Ave are surrounded by large pieces of
sea-Avater ice, of great age, it is diflicult to ol)tain any
th;it is jKTfectly free from salt. In many ])la('es the
ice when melted is sudicieiitly ])ure to drink, and the
sail contiiined in it cannol hv. detected by tasting, but
Dr. Colan will not admit it as pei'fectly ])ure water.
The ice Ave have been using for drinking ])uri)oses is
ol)tained fi'oin the surface of a gigantic {lat-topi)ed
lloeberg, eighty feet in thickness, which is lying fn-ndy
aground, after having been forced up the incline of the
sea-bottom and raised about eight feet by the ])ressure
of the outside ])ack. At the bottom of the coating of
hard com[)act snow Avliich lies on its surface, and
Avhicli a[)pears to me to have Avithstood the last
sunnner's thaw, is a thin stratum of crA'stallized snow
one inch and a quarter thick. Beneath is a thickness
of from ten to twelve inches of ])erfectly ])ui'e ice lying
above the brackish ice of Avhicli the rest of the floebeig
consists. There is a horizontal dividing line between
the fresh and the salt ice, the ])ure ice being tin'
Avhitest of the two ; but the ])ieces of ice chipi)ed off
from tlu! tAvo ])arts are ])re'-ifst'ly alike as regards traiis-
|)arency. l)ust spt)ts are ])lentifid in the salt ice lying
at Aiirious de|)ths, but generally in comiected layers ;
the fresh ice contains none. Occasionallvat the dividiuL'
187
MARKiiAMs inyrnix.
1G9
w
line tlicre is a kyor of gr; inula ted ico less solid than
that above and below it. After carefully examining
many floebergs, I conclude that all the pure ice has
been formed from the melted snow being gathered into
|K)ols on the old floes and refrozen. The dust which
was originally intermixed Avith the snow eats its way
flown into the brackish floe-ice at the bottom of the
freshwater pool diu'ing the heat of summer.'
On the 14th, Dr. Moss walked out to Dumb-bell
Bay on snow-shoes, and there met Commandei' ^Mark-
liMUi and his three sledjve crews, strujiijlinj^f homeward
ihi'ough tlie deep snow.
I did not expect Markham on board until the
ri)]lowiiig day; but so great was the discomfort of
I lassing another sleepless night in the stiff and shrunken
tents and hard froxen blanket-bngs and clothing, that
he made a forced march to get on board, sending
Lieutenant Parr in advance to report his intention. I
ordered a hot meal to be prepared, and all hands from
the ship walked out to meet the travellers. They fell
ill with tliem at Point Sheridan, as they were struggling
through the last of thedeej) snow before reaching the
mile and a half of hard ice leading to the shi|); this
was the first level ice they had nu'l with throughout
their journey.
The men were in wonderful spirits, but although
all were able to walk, several were severely frost -i)it ten.
The journey had been most severe ; but ]\laikham had
nevertheless succeeded in establishing his depot of
provisions at Cape Jose] )li Henry. All made light of
the numerous unavoidable hardshi|)s tiiey had uiider-
•rone, reinarkinif laui>hinsjlv but trulv, 'We could never
.1!
I'.
m,.
i I
170
VOYA(JE TO THE POLAR SEA.
OCTOBEK
■il
|i < ii: '
hm:
have learnt our work except by the actual ex})erience
we litive <;one throujrh.'
Sledtje travelling during the autumn is necessarily
accomjianied by greater hardsliij)s and discomforts
than that during the spring, to say nothing of its being
usually undertaken by inexperienced men. During
the spring the weather, and consequently the travelling,
is constantly improving, and the equij)ment, moistened
during the earlier days, can usually be dried before it
becomes very bad. During the autinnn the tem])era-
ture, too warm at first, steadily falls, and each day adds
its modicinn of dampness to the tent, bhmket-bags, and
clothing, until at last they contain so much moisture
and become so frozen and contracterl in size as to be
almost unserviceable. The sodden blanket-robes fro-
zen as hard as boards can scarcely be imrolled, and
the stockings and foot-wra])pers, put on dani]) in the
morning, are by night frozen so hard into the can^■as
boots as to refuse to separate unless cut a})art or melted
inside the blanket-bag by the heat of the body.
Markham's ioiu'ney of nineteen davs was accom-
jianied with the usual hardships and sufferings. The
deep soft snow, reaching sometimes above the knee,
was nearly imi)a8sable ; being a totally new experience
the travellers were unjirepared for it. In the daily
endeavour to advance, the three officers wnlked in front
of the ])arty, treading down a road through the snow ;
and as the most severe labour devolved on the sledge
which ha])i)eued to be in front, its crew was augmented.
The order of march was changed daily as well as the
leading men on the drag ropes ; when the snow was very
deep, the whole party of twenty-one men had to drag
1875
..VUTUMN SLEDGE TRAVELLING.
171
the sledges forward one at a time. The newly formed
ice was so weak that it became necessary to cross it
with half-loads, and the unfrozen water-s[)accs near the
shore were so frequent that land travelling along every
bend of the coast-line had to be resorted to. A lartfe
water-pool in the neighbourhood of Cape Richardson
oblitjed the travellers to cross a hill 250 feet hi<fh.
Out of the party of twenty-one men and three
officers, no less than seven men and one officer returned
to the ship badly frost-bitten, three of these so severely
as to render amputation necessary, the patients being
confined to their beds for the greater part of the
winter.
The sledges with their cargoes on four occasions
broke through the ice, and individual men frequently :
these being made to change their clothing escaped any
bad consequences. The frost-bites were attributable
entirely to the wet sludgy state of some of the ice that
had to be crossed.
The water that had oozed up through the ice
remained unfrozen, although the temperature was
upwards of forty degrees below freezing point ; con-
sequently whenever the travellers, inex])erienced as
they were at the time, were forced to drag their
sledges over a road of this nature, their feet became
wet and frost-bitten a considerable time before they
discovered it Avhen changing their foot-gear in the
evening; by which time the mischief had attained such
an advanced stage as to defy all restoration of the
circulation.
The sledges proved to be too rigid ; but by taking
out the metal pins connecting the uprights to the
upper bearer, and depending upon the hide lashings
)
I
ii'(
IHV'
m
172
VOYAGE TO Tin-: rOLAR SEA.
October
aloiio, tlioy afterwards stood the iiiiiisiially heavy work
adniii-ably.
There was not one day while; Markham was tnivel-
ling that lie could have obtained snow of sufficient
consistency to enable him to build snow-houses for
shelter by nijrht.
Subjoined is the weight of the sledge equipments
before starting and on the return of the party; the
change is diu entirely to the constantly increasing
moisture o'i liic articles. The contracted dimensions
bv freeziiHv ^vas considerable.
]Jcscrii)tion
Tent
Sail
Coverlet .
liOwcr roj.i!
Flooiclot li ( wiiloriiriMil)
Sli!t>])in,L;' liiij:; .
Knaiisack
1 Before Starting
On Retnnij
' 11).
.07:
IbEi. 1
;u
14
Oi>
<>
1
17
21
1
48
18
4
40
11
4
)1[)
i S
2
17
7
4
10
Five hares were shot by Lieuteiumt Parr on Caj)e
Kichiirdson, and traces of ])t;innigan were seen there
and at Ca])e Jose])h Henry.
'i'lie tein|)eratiire riinged between 15° above and
22° below zero. The party was ])reveiited travelling on
two days by giiles of wind ; and it is remarkable that
on one of these days, October o, when they were
detained by a northerly gale at Ca])e Joseph Henry,
we experienced a calm at Floeberg Beach.
The tall of temi)erature which was experienced on
board the slii|) on the 14th a|)pears to have occurred
several hours ])reviously at a ])osition only eight miles
distant towards the north-west.
The usual ration of spirit at limcli was changed foj-
lor
1875 RESULTS OF AUTUMX SLEDGE JOURNEYS. 17 o
tea, and this aJteratioii in the diet was reported on favour-
ably by everyone without exception. Doubtless tea
is ])reterred by tlie men, but tlie long halt of at least
an hour, required for boiling Avatei* and ])rei)ai'ing the
tea, must completely chill the sledgers, ;ind cannot, in
my ophiion, be advantageous. On this journey atten-
tion was drawn to the fact th:it the bai'ivls of the
l)reech-loading fowling-])ieces became contra(;ted by
the cold to such an extent that the ])a|)er cartridges
which at a higher temperatui'e fitted well could not
be inserted initil the outside paper had been 8tripj)ed
off.
Markham reported that during the I'eturn journey
one of the Eskimo dogvS that had been jibandoned by
Lieutenant Aldrich joined his ])arty, and ])rowled about
at a distance of from four to five luuidred vards, but
nothing would induce her to aj)])roach nearer during
the day. This dog reniained near tliem initil the day
before they arrived on board, when she disaj)peared
and was not seen for several weeks.
The results of the autumn sledge journeys were,
the advance of a large de])6t of ])rovisions for use in
the following s|)i'ing, an invaluable additional ex-
perience in Arctic travelling, and further, by our
greater good fortune in fniding continuous land over
or near which to travel, we succeeded in wresting from
Sir Edward Parry and his com])anion8 their gallantly
achieved distinction of having advanced the British
Flag to the highest northern latitude.
The names of Sir Edwjird Parry tind his followers
have b(3en given to the newly discovered land to the
westward of Cape Joseph Henry in about latitude
S2M5' N., the parallel to which they attained in 1827.
i
♦i
"«f
li
WW'
174
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
OCTOHKK
mt
CHAPTEE IX.
PREPARATIONS FOR WINTER — DOG-SICKNESS — SNOW-HOUSES — VENTI-
LATION OP ARCTIC SHIPS — ARCTIC CLOTHING — ASTRONOMICAL
OBSERVATIONS — FIRE-HOLE — AURORA — THE MOON — THE 'LADIES'
MILE ' — ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE — PARASELENA — ARCTIC DARKNESS
— HIGH TEMPERATURE — CHRISTMAS — END OF THE YEAR.
rtii!ih:fciii
!|,..., .
i rf, ( ', u
The sun having bidden lis farewell, our preparations
for the long winter were av;tively pushed forward. The
paek-ice outside of our barrier of floebergs still con-
tinued in motion, indic;atiug that the ice in Eobeson
Channel was unfit for travelling on. I Avas therefore
most reluctantly compelled to give up all hope of
communicating with Captain Ste})henson at Discovery
Bay until the following s})riug. I accordingly infonned
Lieutenant Rawson and his sledge crew that they v^ere
to pass the winter on board of the ' Alert ' instead of
returning to their own shi]). Having left the ' Dis-
covery ' with the belief that they would only be absent
from her for a few days, they were improvided with
winter clothing, but the articles I was iniable to
])rovide out of the ship's stores were readily made up
to them by the liberality of their companions, and they
passed as comfortable and happy a winter as any on
board our ship.
With the exception of the cases of frost-bite the
1875
D0G-SICK\ES8.
175
lu'tiltli of all was excellont. The frost-bites ccrtiiiiily
would not have oeciirred had tlie travellers been more
ex|)erieii(;ed. Precept and admonition are of little
avail beforehand ; exj)erience alone will teach men
tiiat a long Journey can be ])erfornied after the feet
have lost all ('insulation. The fa(;e also may be frost-
bitten without a j)erson being aware of the fact until
informed by a companion tluit his nose, cheeks, or ears
have become a dead white. So lon<y as the stintrinir
sensation of being cold is felt all is safe. One of our
worst cases 0(;curred in conseqnence of the traveller
neglecting to i-emove his solidly frozen foot-gear,
trying instead to thaw it off inside his blanket-bag.
By this time a heavy mortality had ocscurred among
our dogs, fifteen out of the thirty originally embarked
having succumbed to disiuise, run away, or been neces-
sarily destroyed. Though the animals had been
selected with great care from. distri(;ts in North Green-
land su])])osed to be uninfected, the mysterious disease
which of late years has prevailed amongst the dogs in
the Danish settlements soon made its ap[)earance in our
j)acks. Apparently healthy dogs were suddenly seized
wdth this strange disorder, generally falling down in
fits not unlike epilepsy. The spasms of the poor animals
in these cases were most painful to witness. During
the intervals between the frequent fits they roamed
about unconscious, foaming at tlie mouth, and snap})ing
and biting at the other dogs, or at anyone who came
in their way. When in this condition they would go
overboard into the water, or try to run ou thin ice,
which in their healthy state they would never have
ventured on. The Eskimo dog has a great horror of
'! "1
'^n
17G
VOYAGE TO THE I'OI.AR Sl-A.
OcroDKii
,jji!d*-
J|il':!'"'H'!i
getting into the wjiter. I litive Hoeii an jininial resting
on Ji sloping snow-bunk near the sea suddenly taken
witli a lit. Evidently awan; of what was coniing, it
made the most des[)erate eflbrts to esra|)'e u|) the in-
cline, and howled dismally as its limbs refused to
])erform their oflice. Finally dropping into the water,
it would have been drowned' had it not been rescued.
The medieal oflleers of the Ex})edition, Doctois
Thomas Colan and lielgrave Ninnis, paid the utmost
attention to the outbreak, and in several instances
animals that ^vere severely adlieted with fits recovered
luider their treatment, and sifterwards did good work.
Dr. Niimis has officially reported on the disease. We
are, I regret, imable to throw much light upon the
oi'igin of this mysterious malady, which in some of its
])hases is not unlike the descri])tion given of rabies ; but
there is no instance recoi'ded in Greeidand of human
beings who have been bitten having suffered from
liydroi)hobia, and the recovery of the animals in some
instances is entirely op])osed to the recorded exi)erience
of true rid)ies.
After consulting with Doctor Colan regai'ding the
scale of diet which our stock of ])ro\isions would
permit us to issue during the winter, the allowance of
))reserved meat Avas slightly increased, and the ration
of salt meat correspondingly diminished. Our su])ply
of fresh musk-ox ilesh was sufficient for about twenty
days' allowance. Fresh baked bread was issued three
days out of four, biscuit on the remaining day. With
this ration the Avhole allowance of biscuit was seldom
consumed. As the travellers in the sj)ring could not
possibly carry bottled fruits while absent from the ship.
■ 11 i!
ri''-i'
1875
IJKINE ./r A LOW TKMPl'lfATUllK.
177
the wiiitiT Tiilioii ot" lli;it iirticic Wiis iiiciviiscd ; iiii
tirraiijivineiit tlint Wiis imicli iippi'cciatcd by I'vcrvoiu'.
Subsliiiiliiil siiow-liouscs wvw hiiill on llic Hoc jiiid
oil hIioic ill wliicli to store the sal. meat. So loiijf as
tlu' tL'in|)L*raliii-(' did not fall inucli below zero the
1)rine in the ini'at remained unlV()/,eii and continued to
(hip, thus ridding the beef of a lar<^fe portion of the
salt. This |)laM |)roved a most excellent one, the meat
retainin<? more flavour than when soaked in water.
Mr. Keiniedy, ^vhen ^vinterilli; in North Somerset
during 1851-52, ado])ted a somewhat similar mode.
lie reiiiurks : 'On the suggestion of one of our olliceis,
we have for some days been trying an experiment to
ascertain how far the ex|)osm'e of our salt j)i-()visions
to the frost, and l)urying them in the snow, would have
the ellect of freslieniiig, tliat is, drawing the salt from
them ; but we have had no reason to ])ut any faith in
it.' They probably did not |)rotect the meat in a snow-
house from too severe a tem])erature.
The banking up of the ship's sides ])rogressed
but slowly, for the snow^ within a reasonable distance
was soon exhiiusted, and it was found necessary to
drag a great quantity on sledges from the shore.
Large and substantial magnetic and astronomical ob-
servatories were constructed on the land, and were at
once named by the men Kew and Greenwich. Fortu--
nately for the architects, the gales in the middle of
Septenil)er had formed hard snow-banks, out of which
a compact building material was readily })rocured ; but
the heavy fall of snow^ early in the month had covered
this com])letely ; consequently the accumulation of
discarded material round each building was cousider-
VOL. I. N
8
ii
1,^ 1^^
' i
rii
li !■
ir^i
ht.
ITS
V()YA(JK TO TlIK l'()|,A|{ SKA.
()t roiiKK
uhlc, Mild lor a loiij^' rmic prcsciiti'd aiiylliiii^ but a
tidy appcaniiiro. Soiiu' of llu' olllccrs also coiistriiclcd
smaller siiow-hoiist'H ill which tlicv stori'd their sii|)e!'-
fliious gear, thus giving thenisel\-es more space in llicii'
cabins.
The lloebergs forced on shore in our iieiglibourhood
"were as u rule solid masses ot" sea-\valei- ice; bul
in one large one a cave three; feet high and six
deep was left, hollowed out of the side below the
former line of (lotiitioii. Long ufter the tein|)cratin»'
had fallen below the freezing ])oint of sah water, icicles
continued to form, hanging from the roof of the cave.
These increased in size and length and continued to
drip while the tem|)erature iH'inained above minus 15°.
The brine ap|)ejired to |)erc()late downwards through
the seemingly solid ice, and while a somewhat purer
portion became frozen and formed the icicle, the salt-
est part of the litjuid continued to drip from the end.
When the temperature fell to minus 19° even the saltest
part became solid. Throughout the winter whenever a
rise in temperature above minus 19° was experienced,
these icicles commenced to drij), and to contract in size
as the increasing warmtli of the atmosphere melted the
purer ice in the middle. The size and degree of salt-
ness of the icicles thus varied as the temperature of the
air rose or fell.
As the season advanced and the temperature de-
creased, the usual troubles of Arctic; shij)s were ex])eri-
enced. The descending cold draughts througii the
stove funnels increasing, caused them to smoke badly
and necessitated the removal of the long liorizontal
parts which were led under the deck beams for the
IH"
II.'OZIIN CIIIMNKV
179
nd.
It est
er a
need,
si/.e
the
salt-
f the
^ de-
)Gri-
the
adly
)ntal
the
])iir|)OS(' of ecouomisiiii^ the heat. \W iiilrodiieiiiLr tall
upright riiiiiiels this aiiiioyaiice was removed. 'J'he
moisture fornied by llie
iiieetiiig of tlio hot and
eohl air inside the f'liuiiels
f'roxe and gradually col-
leetedsuflicieiitlv to lessen
tlie (lrau<i:ht. At the
top of tlie funnels ieiek's
fornied, bhn'king up the
apertures and liaiiging
down outside; these if
permitted to increase,
would at last close llu'
funnel entirely. It was
dillicult to remove the
ice that accinnulated in-
side, except by allow-
ing it to melt naturally
and run out through the
joints iu the funnelling, where it was collected in buckets.
The greatest annoyance of all, and which has never
yet been completely avoided in Arctic shij)S, was the
moisture which collected on the beams of the mess-
deck, to such an extent as to necessitate their being fre-
quently s})ongcd in order to prevent it dri[)])ing. The
immediate neighbourhood of the entrance hatchways
and the ' downtakes,' where the rush of cold outer
air caused vapour to f(jrm, Avere the dampest ])arts.
The steam from the co[)i)ers during cooking times also
added considerably to the evil. A thoi'ougli mode of
warming and ventilating the lower deck of a ship is
\ -2
lliDZKN" ClllMMlY.
^\U
180
VOYAGE TO TIIK I'OLAH SILV.
OCTOHER
1:!,.,
an exti'cmcly difficult niattcr at any time ; in tlie Arctic
ivijioiis, wliere tlic inside temperature of tlie sliij)
difl'ers from fifty to over a lunidred degi'ees from
tliat of tlie outside air, the difficulty is considerably
increased. Every precaution lias to be taki'ii to ])re-
vent the cold descending air mixing directly with the
warm and rarefied atmosphere of the iness-deck ; for
wherever this ttvkes pLice the air becomes vaporized
and the moisture is dei)Osited. To efTeclually warm
the fresh air would consume more coal than an Arctic
shi]) could ])0.ssibly carry. If the question Avere one of
ventilation alone no difficulty wcmld be ox|)erienced ;
for with a difference of temperature of fifty degrees
the down rush of fresh air is so strong that the supply
has to be regulated.
Sir Edward Parry, after his third ;ind last voyage
to the Arctic seas, observes : —
' Xo means for the production of internal Avarinth
will ])rove sufficient, without th.' most minute attention
to the stopj)ing of every crevice communicating witli
the external air. There should, on this account, be no
openings whatever, but those for the stove ])i[)es and
the tAvo l;idders. ... I have he; rd a doubt ex|)ressed
whether, with all these ])recautions, there is not a risk of
not admitting enough fresh air for healthy res])iration
and to afford draudit to tfie fires. But I do not think
there is any apprehension : enough, and, without great
care, more than enough, for these ])urposeg will always
gain admission by the fre(iiient o])ening of the doors ; for
it should be remembered that the more Avarmth is pi'o-
duced beloAV, the more forcibly Avill the cold air from
above find its way in to su])i)ly the i)lace of that Avliich
is rarefied.'
1875
VEN'riLATION.
181
With a greater cubic space per man in the ' Alert '
tluin in any former Arctic discovery ship excepting
the ' Xorth Star,' I hoped that with care the dampness
would be lessened. In this I was not disa])pointed,
but ahliough every means in our ])ower was taken to
i-educe it to a minimum, it still existed to a consider-
able extent.
The object in both sliij^s Avas to increase the size
and height of the mess-deck as much as ])ossible, by
building snow-houses with wooden roofs over each
Iiatchway; also to enlarge the entrance porches at the
toj) of each comni'inication hatchway. In the ' Alert '
a snow-house was erected on the u]ij)er deck above
the galley hatch, tifteen feet long and nine broad ; this
acted admiiably as a condenser, collecting the steam as
it rose from the boilers below. The ])orches on the
upper deck were doubled in size, forming rooms eight
feet square. The walls being composed of hard snow-
blocks and having ventilating holes in them, the tem-
|)erature of the descending air, by |)assiiig through
the warmed snow-chambei-, was by this means raised
considerably before it ivaclied the lower deck.
The washing and drying room at the extreme end
of the lower deck was ke]»t quite distinct from where
the men lived ; the forecastle above it being converted
into a snow-condensing chamber, the damj) air from
the washinix room below ascended into it and i)assed
out through a ventilating lul)e.
In our endeavour to get rid of tJie rarefied air
from the ship several ' uptakes ' were introduced, but
only those above the hatchways answered the purpose
satisfactorily ; many of the rest, being more frequently
kiW'fl
i
Hill
') |:
^•;i i
«IJ'\ ■■
1 l!
182
\'OYAGE TO THE I'OLAR SKA.
OcroiiKR
'dowiiliikes,' had (o be closed up again. OjKMiiiins
made in llic stove t'uiniel near tlie beams Avere con-
stant and most valuable ' uptakes.'
On the lower deck everything that ])revcnted the
free circulation of the air was removed, the dividing
bulkhead shifted farther aft, and free commnni 'on
arranged for between the fore and after parts »^. the
deck.
After tliese im})rovements were com])leted and the
ni)per deck covered with a layer of snow two feet in
thickness, the lower deck beams were fairly dry in all
ordinary weather : but in the inmiediate vicinity of
the ventilating hatchways and in the parts most distant
from the warming stoves, and inoi-e especially dnring
the coldest Ave.ather, constant s])onging was necessary.
Although the captain's cabin and the waidroom were
perfectly dry, the officers' cabins opening into the ward-
room, not ])ermitting a free circnlation of the air,
were as usual the dampest [)arts of the ship, and each
officer Avas obliged to construct a Avaterproof covering
over his bed to catch the fi'cqnently falling drops.
The only remedy appears to be to remove as many
bulkheads as ])()ssible.
It has been ])roi)osed that the air necessary for
A'entilating the shi[) should be passed through a warmed
chamber attached to the stoves ; but Avhen it is con-
sidered how quickly all air-tubes become choked Avilh
the accunnilation of frozen moisture, it Avill be under-
stood how diflicuh such an arrangement Avould prove
in practice.
A stove fitted Avitli Avater-pi])es Avas tried on board
the ' Discovery ' Avith an excellent result, the Avarmtli
1875
CLOTHING.
183
Ix'iiifr distributed and eoiiductod to a distance from the
lii-e ))y means of the ])iping.
Whenever the difference of tem])erature between
llie outside and inside of the ship was greater than
fifty degrees, the ascending rareiied air from tlie deck
below, on escaping from the top of the ventilating
funnel, Ijecame visible on condensing, and ap[)eared
lik(? steam escaj)ing from a boiler.
During the month the temi)erature of the lower
deck ranged between 35° and 55° ; that of the outer
air being between 21° and minus 32°, a mean difference
of about 55°.
The clothing in wear when on board the shij) was
n tjiick imder flannel and j^air of drawers and socks ;
a thick woollen shirt witli a turn-down collar and a
naval black silk handkercliief, a knitted waistcoat and
a box-cloth waistcoat with sleeves, a i)air of seal-skin
trousers and ])ox-cloth shoes; the shi[)'s company wore
knitted jerseys instead of the waistcoats.
When going on deck or on to the ice, a duck jumi)er,
or a seal-skin jacket, Avas worn in addition, with a
naval blue comforter round the neck, a thick ])air of
fisherman's stockings, dufHe knee-boots with thick soles,
and a leather cap with ear-laps lined with lamb's skin,
with mits as necessary. When the t('m])erature was
below mimis 30°, Welsli wigs or the ' ]Migenie ' woollen
head-cover and seal-skin caps were Avorn, with large
hanging mits suspended from the shoulder. A suit of
chamois leather underclothing was worn bv some of the
officers when they were taking ol)servations and tluis
prevented from taking quick exercise.
The roudi dufllo cloth leiruings on the boots were
B
r
iLlfc
^'t)m
lii-tl
•li
m
184
VOYAGl-: TO Till-: TOLA 11 SEA.
Oc-oher
; [ji'ii;
'1 If,
UV':
^M
]l\'
foimd to catrli the snow badly. Excoi)t during very
cold weather the snow turned into ice from the heat of
the leg, and by clinging to the hairy cloth gave nuich
trouble in removing it.
Very early in the autumn it was founti that when
the luunmocks were; carried from the lower to the ii])])er
deck daily they became so thoroughly cold that on
being taken down to the warm deck the bedding be-
came quite damp from the difference in temperature.
In order to ^uard against this the hannnocks were
necessarily always kept below during the winter.
lu iixing u]) the transit instrument, Lieutenant
Parr observed that owing to the excessive told, the
s|)irit in the levelling tube had contracted to such a
degree that the air-bubl)le extended the whole length
of tlu> tube and was therefore useless for levelling the
instrunuMit.
Throuiihout the cold weather we were much
troubled by the moistun; which collected on the as-
tronomical instruments from the condensation of our
breath and from the warmth of the eye dulling the
telescope glasses. To remove the moisture we found
it best to ai)])ly the warm finger, which melted the film
of ice and also dried the glasses ; but as the tempera-
ture of the glass fell again a new fdm of ice would
collect. Anything is better than trying to remove it by
rubbing, as that ])uts the instrument out of adjustment.
In fact it was found necessary to obtain the error of
the sextants with each observation.
The lire-hole cut through the ice near the bows of
the shij) was domed over with a large snow-covering,
both to keej) the drift-snow away and to protect the
r
IS?.")
DAir.Y (1CCURREX0ES DURING WINTER.
185
the
water from tlie cold teni])erature. Tlie teni])eratiire of
the snow-house beiiiij twenty decrees wanner tlian tlie
outside air, the layer of ice newly frozen each day was
considei'ably I'educed in thickness.
Tlie fire-hole was left oj)en incaseihe |)uni])s should
become frozen ; but as the supply valve was situated
below the water-line, they remained free from ice and
servict'al)le I hrou_i>iiout the winter; the lire-hole Avas
therefore really useless except for making tidal obser-
vations.
For the daily occurrenc^es throughout the winter it
will be more convenient to quote from my journal : —
' 2'2n(/. — The young ice is nhietcen inches thick. Ten
of these are due to increase on the u])])er surface from
frozen sludw. On the 1st of this month tlu; ice was eis^ht
inches thick; therefore the increase by freezing below
the surface, when the ice was protected by snow, has
been only one inch against ten inches of increase u})-
wards.
' 2o>y/. — ^Tlie tem])erature rising from minus 25° to
minus 10°, with calm weather, the air is so sensibly
warm that the crew are able to work on the ice with
their hands inicovered. Some ollicers building ;i
snow observatory worked without their outer coats and
with merely ordinary black silk handkerchiefs round
their necks for two honrs withont feeling cold.
' 24/A. — Last night the tide-pole becoming frozen
to the ice was lifted olT the bottom by the rise of the
tide. The observations will be now discontinued until
another register is fitted in the fire-hole.
' 2Gth. — A perfectly calm morning. The magnifi-
cently clear weather we have expei'ienced for the last
' '*«
180
yOYAGI'] TO Till'] POLAR SEA.
OcrODEH
^'•^ ^rlii^i'1ri::;!l!l
fortnight somewhat rcj^ays us for tlio previous misty
weatlier.
'With the sun five degrees below the horizon the
Greenland mountains thirty miles distant, lighted with
a glorious orange-tinted sky, w'ere distinctly visible.
Last night there were flaslies of bright coloiu'less
aurora bearing S.E.
Tliis was the first si^n of an aurora seen from either
the ' Alert ' or ' Discovery.'
' 27th. — As the spring-tides a]Tproa<''h, the ice-hinge
formed between the main part of the floe and the
grounded ice rises and falls with each tide ; the end
resting against the floeberg being forced up higher daily
as the water freezes in the ever-breaking joint.
' Stars were visible to-day at noon.'
' 31,s'<. — Since the 21st there has been no movement
in the pack in a line ]iarallel with the shore. The 17th
was the last day that any additional floebergs wrenched
themselves away from the j^arent floes and by ground-
ing outside contributed to strengthen oiu' position.
A few water-pools have been seen lately in the offing
and yesterday the increased tidal motion ojiened two
large ])ools, about one hundred yards in diameter, a
quarter of a mile outside of us. To-dtiy they are
nearly closed again ; so we may conclude that no great
alteration will take piiice in the pack before it breaks
up next season. I am still anxious about the effect of
a heavy onshore gale ; it woidd certainly force the
floebergs and the ship high up on the land. The fact
that we are wintering on a perfectly open coast, ])ro-
tectedonly by a line of salt-water ice-pieces, will enable
others to realize the heavy natvn^e of the ice better
].^
/O
sciioor. ESTARi>isin:i).
187
tliaii aiiytliing ols(\ Whatever results may ha])peii
from our wiuteriui; in this ex|)ose(l mauuei', other voy-
agers sliould uot follow our exam])le. Walked with
Dr. Moss aud Aldrich to Ca[)e Sheridan : light wind,
tem])erature mimis 15°; it was rather slinging to our
faces while crossing the land; but near the shi]) our
Avalk along the lloe was more jn'otected, and we scarcely
felt the cold at jdl.
'The upper deck having been completely housed
over, the thermometer screen has been removed from its
position inboard to a snow i)edestal, tAventy-three feet
from the shi]>, raised four and a half feet above the floe.
^November 1st. — After the monthly medical ins[)ec-
tion to-day, Dr. Colan re])orts everyone in perfect
health with the exce])tion of one man, the wardroom
steward ; he should never have been brought here.
A ghiss of beer is now issued in the evenings twice a
week. On the other five evenings a second allowance
of rum will be issued during the Avinter.
' The dinner-hour has been changed from noon to
1 P.M., in order to keep the shi])'s company out on the
ice during the lightest part of the day.
' On Sunday church is over by 10.30 a.m.; all hands
are then started off for a walk. School Avas com-
menced this evening on the loAver-deck, all the crcAV
attending. Commander Markham, and Mr. Pullen,
have the general superintendence ; all the officers are
instructors Avhen other Avork does not prevent their
attending. The loAver-deck is dry juid \'ery comfort-
able. Only three men in our crcAv can neither read nor
write; these are instructed by Dr. Colan, Avho certainly
has the most monotonous Avork of all.
J !i
! ■!»
m
Hi
'11
188
VOYAGE TO Tin-] POLAll 8EA.
Nov KM HER
' i..l., ,|!i!
;;l
'1?N :>
' ?)rd. — Yi'sterdny nii unusually lii<j;]i hiironietor,
3()"05 inclu'H, iK'niuMiiio- lo fall, a('('()inj)aiiied willi a
rising ttMn[)('ratur(; and ji cloudy sky, Corel old a wind
from tho southward.
'At 10 A.M., as soon as it was sufTiciently light lo
see any distance, I ascended the look-out hill, and
observed a large pool of Avater a ([uarter of a mile in
breadth, extending from Cape Rawson toCa|)e Sheridan.
' The outer edge of the fixed ice formed a continuous
curve from one point of land to the other, and extended
to a distance t)f half a mile from the shore abreast of
the ship. This movement of the ice proves that there
must have been a southerly wind during the night, al-
though iu our jirotected position under the; land we
only ex])eiienced a rise in tem])erature. As the light
increased we found that the snow had been blown from
the unsheltered brows of the hills about Cape Eawson.
At noon snow was observed drifting off the top of the
cape from the southward, and very shortly afterwards
the gale reached Floeberg Beach, accompanied, as was
anticipated after calm weather lasting for more than
three weeks, by a very heavy snow-drift. Captain Mark-
ham and Gilfard, who were observing in the magnetic
house, Avere snowed up and obliged to break the door
down to effect their escape. The temperatm^e rose
thirty-four degrees above what it was j-esterday ; there
is probably water in Eobeson Channel.
' This morning the screw was raised and secured for
the winter. The ice formed in the screw-well protected
from snow-drift wjis twelve inches in thickness.
' In consequence of the increasing darkness the maxi-
mum and minimum thermometers were removed from
1875
AMUSEMENTS.
189
llie shore and ])ljieecl on a. pedestal four and a lialf feet
above tlie ice level and seventy-seven feet from the ship.
' Afli. — A calm morning ; the outer pack has closed
in again and the temperature has fallen. A row of
(;a.sks, about twenty feet apart, has been established in
a line between the ship and the Greenwich and Kew
observatories. In a thick snow-di'ift, owinuf to the ten-
dency to keeji one's head down to avoid facing the
sliar[) snow and cold Avind, tlu'se marks are of less use
than might be sup])osed. The black links of the chain
cable between the stern of the shi]) and the shore are
the best guiding marks in a heavy snow-drift.
' The moon being entirely absent we have only the
mid-day twilight to lighten iis. At noon, it was light
enough to put out all the stars except those of the first
magnitude. The clouds in the southern sky were
tinted with a dark brick red. This is probably the
last glimpse of the jioet's "blush of dawn " which we
shall experience for a long time.
' hilt. — A fresh breeze i'rom the S.W. during the
night has again formed a few water-])Ools in the offing ;
but it would api)ear to be now in(\a])able of ])roducing
along continuous water-channel. Shut u]) as we are,
there is a great difficulty in finding suitable prizes for
winners in games of chance ; one does not Avish to
stop cards, backganunon, and other games amongst the
crew; in fact I encourage these pastimes; but Avhereas
the officers can establish a score book at one penny a
])oint, the men, I fear, caimot so readily institute a
recognized stake. How great a need there is for some
article of cuirency is shown by games being [)layed in
the wardroom jokingly for Inciter matches. Candles
i
^\WEm
Hi<l
\^m
1^
Vu
jB
H:
l^P*!
m
•
11
t)
190
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
NOVKMBKR
I ;:;l
have been tliouglit of; but they are of too iniu'li iin-
portance for tlieir loss to be risked.
'In the eveiiin<]f Guy Fawkes, with a bhie hglit in
his nioutli, mounted on a sledge and escorted by the
band playing the "Eogue's March," was dragged to the
to[) of one of the largest lloebergs, lieiiig ])la('ed on a
tarred barrel he was set lire to, and after being dis-
membered, as crackers blew his limbs off one by one,
his miseries were finally put an end to when the lire
3"'ja(;hed some j)owder in the interior of his body.
What Frederick the Eskimo thought of the }>roceed-
ing I could not discover.
' 9^/i, — The Prince of Wales' health was drunk with
great enthusiasm after dinner. His lioval Hij'hness's
thoughtful present to the officers and crew of both
ships of a library of books has been most fully a})pre-
ciated.
' For the last week the tem[)erature has been
unusually high. To-day it has again fallen below
zero. With the sudden decrease in tem])erature to
minus 5° the air feels raw and much colder than when
the weather is settled at minus 20°.
' The temperature inside the snow-house situated
above the after hatchway is 35° ; that of the deck below
ranaes between 43° and 55°.
' The snow-house over the galley hatchway, receiv-
ing the heated air from below, has melted considerably
aud requires frequent repairs. The snow blocks form-
ing the walls have changed into a contimious sheet of
ice. Had we sufficient plank it would be advisable to
form an inner lining of wood.
' The snow has become decidedly harder since the
187.')
THE MOON.
lUl
<rale ; we can now cut blocks a foot and a liali' tliick
from tlic snow-driftH collected on the floe. This is the
first time that we have been able to do so.
' Yesterday, at noon, it was as dark as any ju'evious
English expedition had experienced. With a perfectly
clear sky the noon twilight was insudicient to enable
us to make out the words in a "Times" leadin<^
article, when the ])aper was lield up facing the south.
We have yet eighty-seven days of more intense dark-
ness to pass through.
' To-day the moon reappeared above the southern
horizon. Her movements arc so imi)ortant to us that
a monthly bulletin is ])ublislied giving the precise
account of when she will ap])ear and when depart.
She is truly the " presiding goddess " of the long Arctic
night; reflecting to us, during each of her visits, the
light of the totally absent sun for ten successive days
and nights as she circles round the heavens without
ever setting. During some ])eriod of her stay full
moon occurs, and she displays her greatest beauty. At
the time of new moon, when her light would be of the
least value, she is absent in southern latitudes. Thaid-^s
to her we can never realize what existence would be if
totally deprived of light.
' 10th. — The temperature has fallen to miiuis 27",
showing that the disturbing southerly wind has ceased.
The snow beef-house built on the ice contiiuies at a
steady temperature of 12° unaffected by the change-
able temperature of the air ; the beef consequently
nuist be quickly ridding itself of salt. To-day we
tasted a piece that had been dripping foi- ten days ;
it was perfectly good and appeared, as already observed,
I
f
iii
102
VOYADK TO Till'; POI.AU SKA.
Nov KM II KR
a'.\
''f
irl
1'
;iii
to have more fliivoiir lliiiii if it liiid been soaked in
wafer.
'We iii-e si ill at \V()rk einl)aiil\iiig llie sliipjiiid biiild-
hm hoiiHCH on deck.
'IIM. — To-day a eourse of leeliires, witli ])0|»ulai-
readiii<jrsand sonps in eliara(;ter, to last about two lioui-s
on eaeli Tluii'sday eveninir, was eonnneneed, I o])ened
tlie course by a lectui'e on astronomy. At tlie end
it was scarcely necessaiy to remind such a steady
tliouLditful body of men, that asti-onouucal subiects lead
us to consider how God em|)loys the numl)erless
objects around us to contribute to our wants, and how
aftei- creating the sun, moon, earth, and stai's — "God
saw that it was good."
' lith. — Misty weather enables us to realize how-
very de})eudeut we are ou shadow, whether cast by the
moonlight or sunlight. When shadows are prevented
foi'ining, the snow tints are so shnilar and the lights so
blended that there is an anxious uncertainty attending
each step, similai- to that ex])erienced when walking in
the dark, and it is impossible to be sure whether the
next step will not lead one straightlbrward on the level,
directly against an obstacle, or headlong over a pi'e-
cipice. In this manner Etiwson ste})ped deliberately into
a chasm some ten feet in depth during his last journr ■^'
In the evening the mist cleared off; we could then .vl
the newspaper with ease by the light of the full niinni.
The shadow of the shi}) showed every rope and spar
distinctly on the ])nre snowy ground.
' The frost-bitten patients are all going on well, but
continuous darkness, or rather lam})-light, is evidently
not the best restorative for invalids.
in:.-
\ i:\Til, ATION'.
Ill:;
' Micliiicl, the IvskiiiKi (l(>u- tliul was lost for ('ii:,'lit
(liiys diiriiij^' the juituinn, was loiiiid dead yi'stcrday.
lie was ii very willing stroiiii' doo-, hut idways most iiii-
so(;ial)lc' witli tlu) others. J To lield liiinscli' aloof from
the rvHt of tlu^ pack, and they n])|)an'iitly agreed U)
k('e|) him iu "Coventry."
' ibt/i. — In anti('i|)ation of the ''xpecti'd darkness
when the inoon leaves ns on the "JOth, a large dej)ot
of fresh ice is being eoUeeted near the ship snllieient to
last until her next ret nrn. The ice (juarry being ;»()()
yards from the ship and the roadway extremely rough,
it is not advisable to send men amongst the heavy
lunnmocks during the darkness; moreover, Avhen quar-
I'ving by eandledight they would ])robal)ly strike too
deep and give us salt iee instead of fresh.
' The uptakes in the snow porches are u great
success. From the accumulation of iVozen moisture con-
stantly collecting on the inside of the pii)es they nuist
also be downtakes, the warm air passing up the middle
of the pipe and the cold air down by the sides. Thus
tlu' cold air becomes warmed before reaching the lower
deck. Fre(|uent brushing is net'cs.sary to keep the
pipes clean. The wardroom is the only ])art of the ship
where there is a <;ontimious dow^ntake; it is a large
tube leading from eight feet above the up|)er-deck to
the iloor of the wardroom ; it freshens the air consider-
ably but makes the wardroom cold. As this ventilator
acts only as a downtake, no accunnilation whatever
collect //^side ; but owing to its conducting the ex-
tremely cold air through the warm atmosphere of tlu*
wardroom, the frozen moisture collects on the r>?^/side
of th( hilled pipe, forming a white. mass of efllorescencc
VOL. 1. o
U'Ji
I i'!l;
'
Ml :
1- II , :
104
VOYAGE TO Tirp: rOLAR SEA.
XOVKMIIKR
ut least two inclR's in doptli. wliicli rendored it so itii-
|.)l('nsaiitiiiid cold a iieii'iiboiir wIrmi placcid in the iniddk'
of the wardroom, that it lias now heon moved and cased
round with wood,
' The snow on the land is at last suffieiently hard to
allow ns to exti'nd our walks on shore to wherever we
])loase ; hut tlie darkness and cold combine to keep us
from straiju"hn<2; far. From Observatory Hill we can see
TlIK I.A11IHS MIIK.
one small ])ooi of waler at the entrance of Kobesou
Channel abonl two milcM distant from Cape liawson.
' Dr. (V)lan lias marked out a level walk half a milr
in length with ])iles ofem|>ty |)rese]-ved meat tins |)lace(l
thirty feet ap:n1. This forms an excellent exerci-^inii'
uround and has been named tlie '"• Ladies' i\Iile."
' Duriniv this calm moonlight weather, althonu;h the
features of tlu' laud cannot be distinuuished, the shaip
delinition of the hill-tops a<iainst the iliiu sti'cak nf
1875
THE ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE.
1!)5
nearly twilijjfht in the soutlierii sky at noon is very
clear and decided.
' 18^/<. — Instead of the nsnal Thursday reMdin<xs and
songs, the i{o3'al Arctic Theatre ^vas ojxMied this
evening, after a close, I believe, of twenty-three years.
Owing to the large size of the lower deck we are
enabled to erect the stage ther; with the temperature
of 50°, an advantage appreciated by b;»tli actors and
audience. A representation held on the up])er deck,
with a temperature of about twenty degrees below
zero, leads everyone to long for the finale at an early
hour. ■
'The acting was excellent, and everything went oIT
well. Aldrich's frequent and pleasant ])erformances on
the ])iano have quite j)ut a stoj) to the intended for-
mation of a band. He very kindly l)lciys dance nuisic
on Thui'stlay evening's after the usual iXiUheiinii', nuich
to the delight of the numerous danceis. The droj)
scene was canbellishcd with a rejn'esentation of Austria,
America, and England struggling for the Pole.'
Owing to the small size of the ' Discovery's' lower
deck a large snow-house was constructed on the Hoe,
which served as a theatre and lecture-room.
•lift/i. — At 11 .\..M. the magnetometer and electro-
meter both showed a disturbance. At G >)() I'.m. there
was a line clear |)araselena, the arch Ix'iiig forty-four and
a half decrees in diameter. Three mock moons were
visible, one above tind one on each side of the moon.
Th
)1
U'cidc
le prismatic colours were xcry (U'cideo in tlie Jiiiio j)ass-
ing through the horizontal mock moon, showing I'ed to-
wnh or nearest to the real moon. The u|)pt'r vertical
w
ivllettion was not clearly delined. beinir merely Ji bright
V
j
I
i
4-'
T»
W^
^u
I'iSii
m
lOG
V(3YAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
NoVKMItEK
ntlfl: !
1 1
, 1!
ff ■
O 1 I
l)lur. Tlie vortical and horizontal ivflection fonnini;-
a cross j)assing throngli the inoon Avas very clear.
' Sailors beini:^ more acciistonied to nsin<jj ti hand-
spike than to digging with n spade, cannot resist the
temptation of nsing the latter as a lever before the
block of snow has been disconnected from the snow
bank ; conseqnently onr few availal)le s})ades ai'e all
more or less damaged, giving constant work to the
blacksmith, wliose forge is erected on the fon^castle.'
The ' Discovery ' improved n))on tliis arrangement
and const rnc ted a convenient snow smithy.
' 22nd. — Temperature minus 87°. The after part of
the lower deck is dry overhead ; the fore part fairly so.
The oihcers' cabins are still bad : the moisture collect-
ing and freexing Avhen it is cold, tliaws and drops at
other times. To-day there v/as a light air from tlie
N.W., force 2. A few cheeks and noses were frost-
bitten, but not sufficiently to stop the work outside the
ship. We are still in want of snow for banking up
against tlu; shin's side : since the heavv snowstorm in
Sc^ptember very little has fallen, and owing to the calm
weather deep snow-drifts have not collected near us.
'Last niijjht a bright streak of aurora, was seen stretch-
ing through the zenith in a north and south direction.'
About the same time a faint aurora was observed
at Discovery ]ky.
'Yesterday, theloAV mist through wliicli Aldebaran
was glimmering made it appear to move up and down, or
' juni]),' as several re|)()rted ; it was about six degrees
ibove the horizon and the refraction very changeable;
this evening there was little or no i-efraction : the crescent
of th(! moon skirting close above tlH» southern hills avms
11
1875
3IE1{CI;KY fijozen.
107
j^o sli^fhtly distorled that it n])]H'!Hi'd in its true form
until the points of tlie upper liorn sank behind tlie land,
not to return to us for thirteen days.
' 2?)rd. — A cold day Avith a clear sky. Mercury
frozen for the first tune : temperature down to minus 45°.
Hcing calm, tJiere Avere no ill effects from the extreme
cold, the Avork outside the shij) being carried on as
usual.
' The cracking noise mentioned by former voyagers
has only lately been heard on board; as the spring-tides
approach the noise increases in frequency; it is evi-
(h'Utly due to the movement of the ice in close contact
with the outer skui of the ship.
'Taking advantage of the cold Aveather, Ave com-
pared a number of spirit thermometers Avith each other;
although tlieir readings Avere Avidely different, yet
Avlien the Kew correction Avas a])])lied each agi'eed
fairly Avith the general mean.
' 'ICith. — This morning Ave exjierienced a southerly
wind. During the afternoon the Aveather Avas very
squally, but the Avind never exceeded force 5 ; the tem-
])erature, hoAvcver, rose ninoteen degrees, proving that a
gale was blowing in our near neighbourhood.
'A band of smokv-lookiu" clouds has collected
above liobeson Channel; remaining stationary, they
denote that the Avind does not extend to aiiv threat
height above the hills. I could see no Avater or water-
smoke at noon from the look-out hill, but by the tem-
perature rising forty degrees there is ])robably some
water in Robeson Channel. Innnediately the Avind
changed from S.S.E. to W, the temperaiure fell tAventy
three degrees.'
,r
K1 1 I
* i\
1 '•
ill
108
VOYAOl-: TO TIM': J'OLAll .SEA.
NOVKMBKR
ill
!'.■!' H
Imi
(I i . '--'f
't <rll
lb.
il
We afterwards learnt that duriiij? this ])eriod the
* Discovery' in lier protected position experienced cahn
and cold weath.er, oidy one light pufl'of wind from the
south-east reaching her at noon of the 2Gtli. As her
highest temperature was luinus 10°, I conclude that the
warm blast of ah- which raised our temperature to 19°
passed up Robeson Channel from ihe southward with-
out entering Discovery Bay.
' During the forenoon a streak of aurora was ob-
served passing through the zcmith in a north and south
direction ; it consisted of a continuous straight ribbon
of fairly bright diffused light with distinctly marked
edges extending to within about eight degrees of each
horizon. The stars shone through the aurora as plainly
as those in any other part of the heavens, and the sky at
the border of the ribbon was not darkened in appearance.
' "Ilt/i -The weather havinir become settled, li^aviufj
an unusually clear sky even for this cloudless region,
with calm weather and a tem]ierature of minus 15°,
e\eryone was induced to ])rolong his usual walk.
"28^//. — At 1a.m. a bright streak of aurora, composed
of detached fc^athery streams, stretched across the zenith
in a north and south direction, extending to within about
twentv deurees of each horizon. At the same time,
bearing 8.E., there were several bright flashes forming
an arch witli a darkly shaded sky below.
'The streams in the zenith, judging by their lateral
motion as they passed overhead towards the south,
were a])])arently not far from the earth ; in passing
they partially hid the stars from view, somewhr't in the
same manner as a fine cumulus cloud would have done.
'This is the brightest auroi-a avc have experienced
187.')
IIOMINC; PIGEONS.
199
l)iit \\v ('(Hikl (l(jt(>('t IK) (lirstiirbaiu;e in the mngueto-
iiietor. Contrary to the ])o[)ular l)ehef, the aurora
gives lis no appreciable light.
' 30^A.— With the exception of the "Tolaris" we
liave now ex])erience(l a greater degree of darkness
tlian any of our predecessors. To-day, with a perfectly
clear sky, from a distance of half a mile in a .southerly
direction, the ship was distinctly visible from 11 a.m.
to 1 P.M. At noon, just topping the southern hills,
was a faintly tinted })early green sky, through which
stars of the first magnitude had a dilliculty in shining ;
above, it toned off into a slightly brightened light blue'
which extended to the zenith ; from thence to the
northern horizon was a distinctly brightened dark
l)lue sky. When the twiliuht, after lini>-crino- for ei^ht
hours, has left us, the reflection from the j)revailing.snow
is sufficient, even at midnight, to brighten the heavens
and to render the stai's in the " Milky Way " very faint ;
in fact that glorious band, only ai)parent on dark nights,
is here scarcely visible. When mist or snow-drift
obscures the stars then oidy is the darkness intense ;
it is never equal to the black gloom of a coal mhie.
The continuousness of the darkness, rather than its
intensity, is the (le[)ressing a"companiment of winter in
the Arctic regions.'
xVfter the ship was lixed in winter-quarters an at-
tempt was made to tiain the carrier-})igeons to return
to the ves.sel. In doin<>" so one was lost, and the three
remaining were then lelt to Hy about the ship and
accustom themselves to the neighbourhood. As the
cold increased they preferred remaining in their nouse ;
consequently they were berthed below on the lower-
"m>
2(){)
VOYA(iE TO THE TOEAU Sl'-A.
I)Kt'KMnV,R
•I I
,!*■!'
ts":'
fi"
<loL'k. Artorwiinls ;i[)jH'{iriiig to be thickening tliey were
ngiiiii lukeii on deck, to as(;ei"tjiin it" tliey could ^vith-
stand the cold weather which they would have to
undergo if they were to be of any use to us ; but they
were sw sluggish in their movements and so helpless
that the Eskimo doujs cauuht two of them : tlu? last
survivor was then killed and added to the larder hang-
ing in the mizen rigging. Capt. Stephenson succeeded
in kee[)ing one alive throughout the winter. In July,
when the temperature was above the freezing point, it
was released five miles distant from the ship, but was
never seen agam.
These y)igeons were sent on board with the l^elief
of many, that when liberated from captivity from any
distance they would return home; but hi reality, homing
pigeons, like other creatures, have to be taught what is
required of them. After becoming well accustomed to
one neighbourhood, they must first be taken a short
distance from home in the direction of the place whence
they are wanted to make their final flight. The dis-
tance has then to be gradually increased, luitil at last
they know^ the Avholc country above which they have
to return. They are of little or no use during fogs,
strong Avinds, or heavy rains. Pigeons are therefore
practic-ally useless for explorers advancing over a new
country.
'• December 1st. — Another magnificent day; calm,
with a bright clear sky ovei'head and a temperature
at minus 10°, which, after taking one turn along the
Ladies' Mile, made us so thoroughly waim tliat we
could have dis[)en8ed mth our inner waistcoats.
' The men are working outside the slii]) with their
it.\
I87rj
CONTKACTION OF ICi:.
201
(!• i- '\\u
sc'iilskin jackets off*, cutting out tlio cliaiii cnbk\s from
the ice in Avliicii tliey became buried by tlie sludge and
snow freezing over them in Se[)i;ember.
' As tlic ice is constantly cracking Avitli the tidal
motion and contracting irom the cold, I am afraid that
the links of the chain, solidly embedded as they are in
the 'ce, will be unable to stand the great strain to
wliich tiiey must be subjected at the parts where the
cable crosses the cracks.
' At the monthly medical insj)ection to-day Dr. Colan
reports that everyone is in perfect health with tlie ex-
ception of the wardroom steward, who is very ill.
' Miuiy of the officers are exi)enencing a loss of appe-
tite ; a few of tlu; men are also similarly affected, but
;is they have more regular outdoor bodily hibour to
undergo, they are not so liable to feel tlie change as
the officers. With the increasing darkness we become
more dependent on each other for companionship, and
it requires more than the usual determination to take
a solitary constitutional walk. The snow embankment
round the ship is at last nearly com])leted, but owing
to her bow being so higli out of the water the weight
is too heavy for the ice, which has settled down so
nnicli that the Avater has overflowed the fire-hole and
requires to be dammed off" to prevent it flooding the
surface of the ice.
' 2u.d. — A misty day, light northerly airs with a
temperature minus 8°. The moon being absent we can
scarcely sec our way along the Ladies' Mile, the marks
tliirty feet apart being barely visible from one to the
other. Except by moonlight, it has long since been
quite impossible to identify anyone, or to distinguish
m\-J:
202
VOYA(iJ': TO TJIK POLAR SEA.
DKCKMnrn
iH .4
- !■ : m
ofru'cTs from men, except from some ])eculinrity in
liei<;lit or jfiiil. It lias been sii<>m'ste(l tliat we should
(leeonite our seal-skin caps with a (listiuuuishinu' mark
like the km'ohts of old.
' With the present comparatively lii,Ljli temperature
the roof of the snow-house over the galley is continually
dripping, and has to be rebuilt or ])atclie(l u]) about
once a week. ]W incessant care and attention, tlie
ventilation of the ship has been much iinpr ved, and
there is little noAv left to wish for except in the officers'
cabins. They are so full of gear that the air camiot
circulate i'reelj', and are tlierefoi'e very damp. The
mess-deck is ventihited through the midshij) part of the
lower-dec ., where there are three stoves constantly
burning.
' I'he total consumption of coal is 18 cAvt. a W(>ek.
The galley fire burns 105 lbs. a day ; ca})taiu's fire,
25 lbs. ; Avard-room, 28 lbs. ; thi'ee midship lower-deck
stoves, 28 lbs. each ; small stove before the galley on the
mess deck, 25 lbs. ; and the Avashing-room stove, 15 lbs.
With this consumption, the average temperature of the
loAver deck is 41)°.
' ord. — To-day the barometer was falling sloAvly
with a light breeze from the S.S.E., and a very unusual
lise in the temperatme to 25°. I supposed that this
denoted that a sti'ong gale from tlui southAvard had
broken up the ice in Kennedy Channel, and that the air
had become raised in temi)erature by passing over the
uncovered water ; but at 2 p.m. it was reported that the
temperature had risen to 30° ; as thisAvas much higher
than the knoAvn temperature of the seaAvater below the
ice, 28°-5, 1 looked at the thermometer myself to confirm
it
:- ■ " 2iii 1 ii
{\ ;.,;
is:.-.
TKMrKWATniK IIF^^KS TO .T)
20^
the ohservatioii ; hut ii) tlic inoiiutinu' the loinpcratiirc
luul fallen to 28". On uoing to tlio observatory I lound
that the niaxiniinii thennonieter, which had been set at
noon at 2U°"2, had registered during the interval o-l" ;
this corroborated the report, but I thought that a coni-
l>ination of aci'ident.s might have introduced some error.
1 tiien reset the register jit 2S°, and j)articularly
observed that it Avas hxed in its proper position and
immovable by Avind or any shakin<2; cause.
' During the afternoon the temperature was ex-
tremely variable, with squally weather from the i^.S.E.
At 8 P.M., a second warm blast Avas experienced.
It fortunately happened that Dr. Moss, Lieutenant
Giirard,and lAvere comi)aring some thermometers Avitli
those in general use, and Avliile doimv so each of the five
registered 30°. On going to the observatory the two
thermometers there re<:fistered the same deo;ree of tem-
perature, thus giving seven independent observations.
Moreover the maximum thermometer set at 28° at
2 P.M. had registered a temperature of 35° in the
interval.
'This proves that the rise in temperature could
not be Avholly due to the air passing across open Avater.
' The gale must imdoubtedly have travelled to the
northAvard from Kaffin's J^ay, perhaps from the Atlantic ;
the Avarm air is at a higher temperatiu'e than any Avater
within 600 miles of our position.
' Subsequent observations taken by Dr. Moss,
showed that the temperature at the masthead, apart
from the cooling inlluence of the cold ground and ice,
A\as tAvo or three degrees warmer than that below.
'At 10 P.M. the Avind changing to the northAvard
11 .11
if
$
204
VOYAOK TO THK r()I,AI! SKA.
I)i:ri:Mitr;u
,1 'ISSI
till.,! I
n
ni^.
lowcrod tlic loiniicratiirL' iiiiincdiiiU'ly ; l)y midniglit it
had fiilk'ii to 4".'
We .sul)se([U('iitly Icnrnt tlnit this very warm l)last
of ;iir from tlio .southward ])a.ssod th(! latitude of Dis-
covery Bay witliout aHectiMg tiie temj)erature there, tiie
]iighest registered being only 4°. While we experienced
southerly winds the ' Discovery ' had light north-westerly
airs and calms.
' 4fh, — At 6 A.M., after calms and light airs from the
southward for the five or six previous hours, a southerly
s([uall of half an hour's duration was experienced, the
temperature again rising to 23°. After 8 o'clock the
weather was calm and the tem])erature below xero.
While walking for exercise, altliough the tem])eratm*e
Avas only minns 12°, everyone comi)lained of the sting-
ing cold air ; when oidy three days ago, with the
same degree of cold, but after a rise in temj)eraturc, we
were actually complaining of the Avurmth.'
The ' Discovery ' cxjjeiienced a similar southerly
squall afl'ecting the temjierature to the sarei? extent,
but, curiously enough, the disturbance took i)lace there
four hoiu's later in the day.
' Owing to the weight of the .snow that has accunui-
lated diu'ing the gale in a bank near the bows of the
ship, the ice lias sunk down and the water has Hooded
it to the depth of six inches.
' As the ice has increased in thickness, so the shiji's
situation, only twenty feet distant from a hu'ge floeberg,
has caused us annoyance and extra Avork. Before
securing her for the winter, this trouble Avas foreseen,
but OAving to the shalloAvness of the Avater and the
JHTo
ICE IIIXUE.
205
]»mxiinity of the land I was iiiial)K' to move farther
away from our distuihiiiu' iieii>iiboiir,
'However cold the t('m|)eratiire m.jy he, the ice
whicli is .subject to the rise and fall of tiie tide, must
alwiiys remain s(!parate from any lixed ol)je('t such as
the shore or a juece of stranded ice. Tlu; sea sur-faco
h('iii<j iiveater at hijjjh than at low-water, the ire froxen
(hu'iiiu' the risiuij tide acts as a wed^e to force ohiects
a[)art during the falling tide. Tiie shi[) is thus being
steadily forced away from th(; lK)eberg, the |)ressure
causing her to lieel over, away from tiie berg. The
ice has lately crac'ked within a few feet of the shi[) and
tornied a hinge-piece which alters its angle as the
tide rises and falls. Conse(|uenlly the snow embank-
ment on that side of the ship falls away dming the
spring-tides and requires constant repairs,
' G^A. — Owing to the extraordinary rise in tem|)era-
ture a few days ago, the air, being warmer than tiie
wood and ironwork of the shi|), congealed into soft
featiiery snow-crystals, forming a beautiful efflorescence
attached to the ship's side and on the bolt -heads.
Until the ship itself became of an equal temperatm-e to
the air, these grew in length, without turning into ])iire
ice, as the similar formation does which at otiier times
occurs inside of the ship, but which is affected by a
temj)eratnre of about 50°.
' Yesterday, when the temperature fell to minus 20°
the efflorescence gradually evai)orated, and to-day the
surface of the ship's side is |)erfe(;tly clean ag.iin.
Owing to the thick embankment of snow outside of the
ship and that on the up[)er-deck, the tem[)erature of
2U0
V(>VA(il'; TO TIM': I'OI.AI.' SKA.
DiX'KMllKK
I' ,,
m '
K V
the loWiT-donk was not inucli MH'c'clL'd, althoiigli cveiy
door was tVccly o|)('ii.
'7/f//. — AcalindMy. willi misty weather, leiiijjeniturc
about zero, evei'yone eoin])laininix of the warmth. 'Fhc
men working outside llie sliij) iiiid the odleers walking
on tlie iee were obliged to take (jH' their .seal-skin coats,
even feeling warm and uia omfortable afti-r doing .so.
During very eold weather .seal-skin dresses, invaluable
for common wi'ar, cainiot be used by anyone engaged
in hard manual labour. When takinu; violent exer-
cise, or undergoing hard work and ])ei'H|)iring freely,
the warm I'nianations from the body, being unable to
])Hss through the .skiji-dress, collect inside, wetting all
garments alike, the seal-skin a-mongst the number.
When resting, the then dani|) outer skin-divss becomes
frozen, hardening like a board, in which it is impo.ssible
to move.
' K)M. — Temperature minus 28" and calm weather.
A glorious day, or I suppose Ave ought now to say night,
foi' were it not for tiie full moon shhiing biightly in a
clear sky we should l)e in total darkness. The floe is
lightened u|) considerably, and the siiadows thrown by
the ice hununocks and snow-ridges permit us to walk
forward with I'onfidence. The lumps which we have
been stumblin<j; aij'ainst duriuLj the absence of the
moon are being smoothed down. The temperature of
the beef-house on the ice has remained .steady at 12°
for some days. Owing to the brine drip[)ing from the
imfrozen beef on to the ice below, the surface of the
i(;e has itself become sufficiently salt lo thaw at that
temperatuie; conseciuently, under the grating on which
the beef is phased theie is a pool of water — a vei'y
Hi'
is:r,
gim:i:n'i..\ni> rniix.
207
csi' rcmoiiM.
nimsiial si^jiit (liii'iiiu' lli<' wiiitci' in tl
hiiriii^ tlic spring-tide l;isl niiiiit tlif wiilcr forced Its
way tliroiigli the ei'.Mck in the ice near the ship, and
overi'an tlie lloe on the starboard qnai'ter to the depth
of at least a foot. Yesterday the ice newly frozen this
season was forty and a half inches thick; the ii|)|)er
snrface was two inches above the water-leveJ, with live
inches of hard snow lyinL' on to|» of it.
' The weathi'i' has now a|)|)arently settle(l. Any force
that can put in motion so vast a body ol" air as must l)e
necessary to allecl our temperature lifty dejxi'ees, raisiuLT
it from minus 20" to o')", and keepin<i' it above the ave-
rage for eighteen days since November 25, must have
been very considerable, and 1 cannot but expect that
very severe wea
Iher h
las occurred even in the
Atli
mtic
After our return to iMiglund I learned, through tlie
investigations of Captain N. IJofl'meyer, JHrector of the
Meteorological Institution, Cojx'idiageii, that each of
the observing stations on the west coast of Greenland
between Ivigtut and Upernivick had I'xperienced Avarni
south-ejjsterly winds between November l!) and J)e-
(H'mber 12, agreeing pi'ecisely with the warm tempera-
ture we (^\|)erienced during the same period, and
proving thiit the disturbing cause travelled over the
intervening district, embracinu an area of at least J, 300
mnes
14M.— From the look-out hill we can observe a
Mil
snuill cYiH'k in the ice about a mile to seaward, i'n
which frost smoke is rising every here and there.
' Since the winter set in there has been no collection
f " barber " on the yards or ri<fi2iii^. The little that
o
ni'ay collect on the thermometers or ships side never
1(
m-^
.( - i
I mi
fS
m
tWT
f'I'M
mr''-- ' '
!| . ^- -
i' ■ '■' '•
M
1
1 ^
i: >
1
1
rll
n
1 !
h
1. 1
'. : ■
Iffi^ il f
,if;^
208
VOVA'il': TO TIIK rOl.Alt SKA.
Dkctmukh
attains any ixreat tliickucss, and lias always flisapjK anxl
by cva]H)rali()n on the followinu" day.
' In Scptenibur and October it was far ollierwise.
Each jope — even the j)erpendicnlar ones — became
incased in frosty ice, and increased to three or fonr
times its natnral size. TJie absence of this now is
probably dne to the great dryness of the atnios|)here.
' 17^A.— As the moon sank towards t!ie noi'tlairn
horizon a misly paraselena formed, of the iisnal diameter.
P.VHASKIKNA.
Observing tliat the reflection v.'as between iis and the
land, I walked nntil it fell directly on the ship, my posi-
tion being 250 jards from tiie reflection. Objects at a
Sfreater distance were mistily hidden from view by the
lighted ])art of the atmosphere ; while other objects
at the same distance, which were seen thronah the
same misty but unlightened atmosphere, were quite
distiiH't and j)resented sharp outlines.
!.'<:.■')
TTIE SnfmTF.ST DAY.
200
' Tlio mno'iiotomolcr lins been disturlxMl sliglilly for
the last two days, hut vvc liave sclmi ]itt](^ or no a])|)eai-
aiice of aurora. rrol)abl3' tlie moonlight is too brifjht
to permit siicli faint auroras as wo experience to display
themselves.
'Yesterday our usual Thursday evening's fralher-
iiiL!' was somi!what chanu'ed by Commander Mark-
ham appearing as the " Wizard of the North." Ilis
iiavuig taken lessons in the art of legerdemain, and
l)rovided himself with the necessary apparatus, had
been kept secret^ and few of us knew who the wizard
was imtil the droj) curtain was raised. All the frost-
bitten patients attended the entertainment. Their
recovery has been slow. Witli the excc-ption of these
and the steward the doctor's hands have been free all
the winter. With the extremely dry atmosj)here no
one com])lains of colds, coughs, or rheumatism.
' 22)1(1. — The sun attained its most southern ])osition
this morning, so oui' first winter is half over. Al-
though we are only 453 miles from the Pole, it is still
no misnomer to call this the shortest day, for at noon
there was fin indistinct greenish tint brightening the
southern sky, and as there was a low bank of mist to
tlie northward the light was reflected across to that
side of the heavens. The twiliii'ht was sudicientlvstroiv
to put out the stars forming tlie Milky Way within
thirty degrees of the north and south horizon, and only
iillowed those overhead in the zenith to be faintly
distinguished. To escape com])letely bevond the
limit of twilight we must yet journey northward
one hundred and twenty miles before the sini sinl
\S
eighteen degrees below the horizon, the measure by
:|
v;;l
■i- J
^1
iM
I'>
'^;;,.^! >'
•'■,;(! >
-1,,
fir
210
voYACii': TO Tiir: pot.ar S!:a.
I)i;ci:miii;r
wliicli lli(3 <j;;irrisoii twiliulil -,u'iiii is lirefl tlii'oiio-lioiil llir
world.
'There is h decided cluiiijie in llie eoiiiplexioii of
eaeli of us in eoiiseciueiKH' of llie want of sunliLihl ; in ;i
few inslances nolieenbly so.
' 2')fh. — Apart from the absence of the sun it was
;i splendid Christmas Day, with a ])ei-feetly clear slarlif
skv, the fainltsi twili_Lrht ji'lininier at noon, tnid jusl
sullicient movement of the air to render our Avalk
on the ice the more bracinu'. with a temperature al
mums o4 ,
'•|:^hortly before our departure from Ensiland a 1)ox
ar)-i\ c'd from Queenstown, containing presents for every
one in tlie Expedition, from ]\rrs. Coote and lier friends,
and other members of Sir IMward Parry's family.
Unfortnnately, one ])aivel had been stowed in a damp
place, and I was obliged to distribute its contents a few
weeks ago; the rest of the pivsents were given out
to-day, and, ex[)ressing as they did the kindly fore-
thou'dit and interest of th(> donors, I need scarcelv
say how greatly they were apprecitited.
'The lower-deck was appropriately decorated, the
dinner tables being laden with as good and ample a
meal as any <'oul([ wish. Each mess had a joint of
nuisk-ox or fi'esli niiilton, and an unrestricted allow-
ance of the usual piovisions. 'J'lie fattest musk-ox
had been naturally kept for this dinner. The fat on
the outside of the loin was two inclu\s thick by measure-
ment ; no meat could ha\(' been more
b(
tend
er or piicv
Tl
le ox reterre(
1 I
o was killiHl
It the
end ol
Au""ust : but those killed the followiiiLf year i" July
had verv little fit on them.
f
1875
IIETUEN OF ESKLMO DOG.
211
Since llu! tciiipt'rature has i.iuli'l'cI between niimi.-
]{)"
40° til
iliuix betwi
the Ix
ana innui.s 4U IJie ('eiinii,' between llie Ueani.s on
tlie lower-deck, lu'ar the entrance hatchway, has been
(lamp. It i.s merely a qnestion of qnantity of" coal, of
which we have little enoni^h. As no one is li\in<j: or
sleeping there, I have merely directed inci-eascd atten-
tion to sponging oil' the dam])nes.s. and drying the beams
with cloths.
'Dr. CoLni is, I think, correct in considering that a
teni|)eratiire of miiuis ^iO° is abont the limit of cold
bearable nnless the weather is calm. AVhen the temi)e-
ratiire is lower extra jH-ecanlions have lo be taken.
'The frost-bitten men are now nearly convalescent.
They have had a weaiy *ime of it, conlined to their beds
for so long a ])eri(jd without sunlight.
' One of the dogs left at a distance from the ship
byAldrich hi October, returned eai'ly in December in a
most deplorable condition, k^lie had been seen occa-
sionallv wandering about in tlie ueijiiibourhood, but
would not permit anyone to approach her ; the other
dogs, as in the case of i^lichael, evidently conspired
t(jgether to ptit her in 'Coventry.' Being at last
cajitured she was placed on a diet of one ])ound of
preserved meat a day and ^\ hat else she could obtain
through comjvission, and now is so fat that her extra
allowance is stopped. So great is the change in ])opular
opinion consequent on her improved condition that
society has taken her intofuvour again, and the other
dogs now permit her to mix freely with them.'
This animal afterwards became queen of the team,
and one of the best pullers of the whole |)ack.
'During the early part of the month we lost a very
'hi!
'21 ti
VOYAni': TO TTTl', rOT.APt REA.
DrX'EMIlKR
Kit
■ i ! '
U'^
i '•
line puppy by crniiip, I lie only oiu' wliicli inaiiiiu'cd to
siir\i\e toi' ;i tiiiic out t)l',si.\. An EskinuMs aii^tliiiiii-
hut a irood iiiirsc, and allhou^li FiH'derick is a valuabK'
mail ill otluT ways ho caimol be induced to take suf-
ficient cjire of the y()im<4' dogs. A female before ])up-
])iiig can be readily enticed oil board and phiced in a
kennel ; but at no otlier time ean an Eskimo dou; b(>
induced to sleep in a covered-in place. Two females
are domiciled ;'omlbrtably eiioiigli at [)resent in casks
on the upper-deck.
' The tt'injx'ratureof the land a foot and a half Ijelow
tlu' surface is minus 3°, that of the snow-huts is minus
r)°; and the snow-protected (ire-hole remains upwards
of 20'' warmer than the outside air
' It is dillicult to kei'p the heels of the cloth boots
from slipping; conse(pU'ntly llie heels of the socks
and boot-hose wear out very quickly. Tlu' odicers
walking briskly can wear blanket wrappers and moc-
cashis without feeling cold in the ft^et, but the crew
while at work, liavin£2: to stand about a liT'cat deal, are
necessarily unable to wear the thin-soled moccasins,
and are obliged to keep to the warm but clumsy cork-
soled cloth l)oots.
'As is usual in Arctic ships, all expected that
durinjji; the winter there would be aiii))le tinu' for readiim
and writing ; now the general coin[)iainl is how little
can be done in that way.
' The men breakfast at 7.30 .\.M., then clear up the
lower-deck. After an hour's work on the ice we
muster at divisions, and read daily i)rayers at a quarter
past 10 A.M. The ollicers bivakfast at 8.30, after
which there is too little time to settle down to any
1875
DAILY l.'OUTINE.
213
])iirtic'iiLii'()('<ii]);ilinii before llie geiici'iil iimster on deck
about 10 A.M. After pi'ayers, all liaiids leaxc the ship,
the men ibr work, and the ollicers eillier for exei'cise
or to Ni'^it the
lCW Ol'
Gi
eciiwii
h " ol
).servat()nes.
Tl
le crew dine at 1 i'..M., tlieii out on the ice auan
until 4 l'..\i., when their odieial work i.s over for tht
(lav
' Tlie officers gonernllyremaiu on the ice until al).)Ut
1 I'.M. ; between which time and dinnei" at "J.oO i',.M.tiie
lime slips away iu a sur))rising manner. After dinner
nid a smoi\e the shij) L'^ very fiuiet, so prol)ably niauv
ake a siesta ; but ihei'e is plenty of noise at tea-tini
seven.
'J'l
leii comes sc
hool
t' al
on the lower~(h'ck until
9 P.M.. after which one sits (hjwn lor th.e lirst time iu
the day |)erfeclly ready for study, and with a ceriainty
of not beiiiiX distm'bed. We need not wonder then, if
ular 1
when tlie regnlar lamps are ])Ul out in the ward-room
at 11 I'.M. most of the cal
)ins aiK
1 tl
u ward-room its*
If
remain lit by privati' candles for some time longer.
As this time is really nsed to a good purpose I do not
com])lain
but
naturally, late hours at niuht lead to
iincertam hours in the morning ; so it in'iiui'Utly liappeiis
that althouo'h all are oblitied to attt'ud al the Lji'iieral
muster a tew have not appi'ared at breakfast, hut
choose to ca
11 tl
le
iid-(h
\y me
l)v that name
making up for the lost meal by a supper at I 1 r.M.
on whalexer is to
he had.
Were the liours misspeiil. fault might be Ibund witii
this arrangement, hut in our ease \\ith a studious -:ct
of ollicers full of resources in themselves it perfect Iv
succeeded, and throiiiiiiout the winter I ne\er found it
mm
n
f :. '
^r^'*-.
irm
I 'J
m
IW
^^^m
■i »
f ,
necessary to chauiiv it
214
VOYAr;E TO TTTE rOI.AT! SEA.
DiifTnuniR
f^^
'i il
^iti
H'.
w
' All oarly diiiiicr is iicccssfuy on account of tht' want
of fuel ol)li'nii<f us lonut out tlie cookiiiLf-fires at 4 P.M.
Tea is made on one of the warmiiiLj-stoves.
'On Sundays, after church on tlie lower-deck, the
general nuister is lield outside the shi]), then all hands
scatter over the ice and land ; the distance of their
wanderings being dependent on the temperature and
tlie amount of mooiihuht. On sacrament Sundays, by
mustering before church, the service is not interfered
with.
' ol.v^. — At noon the ship was clearly visible from
the end of the half-mile walk, and we all noticed a
decided increase in the duration and intensity of the
twilight, or fancied that we did. In a day or two the
moon will return, and excej)t during her fortnight's
absence towards the end of January, we shall have
a fair amoimt of light daily.
' The old year is dying away calmly. There is
perhai)s more excuse for us than for many in looking
forward anxiously to the next one, for if any can be
pardoned for wishing the present time to pass quickly
il is those undergoing their term of voluntary banish-
ment in these regions. Not that the lime is hanoing
heavily, for I can coiirideiilly say that no former col-
lection of oflicers or men met their monotonous and
lonely Arctic life more cheerfully and contentedly than
those under my command are meeting theirs.
'Making due allowance for the difference of time,
at 7.55 P.M., it being then midnight in England, \vv
drank a na|)py New Year to all absent fi'iends, witli
earnest wishes for as happy and successful a coming
year as the old one has proved.'
18
/<)
ri:()i/)(Ji'K si'oKiix NOV. is. is:-").
215
Tlic t'ollowiiiu" pi'oloLiiH', wiittcii l)y our chaj)!;!!!!,
the Kc'V. 1[. W. Piilleii, was spoken ul llic re-o|)i'iiiiig of
tliu lioyal Arctic Theatre, on November 18, 1875 : —
Kind friends, willi kindly ,!4iTctin,i;"s met to d;iy,
Wc bid you welcoiui' to our opening;' I'lav;
You, wlioso indulgent sniik; f'orltids tliv' t ur
Of scornful wit or captious ci'itio here,
'i'o-day wo welcome yon, and not To-nij;ht,
l''or all is noitn with us — all summer kri^lit ;
And though the southern Sim has ceased ti> pour
His glitterinji^ rnys upon our ice-bound shore —
Has ceased awhile to touch with drops of gold
The crystal corners of oiu' hummocks bold ;
We bear a warm soft light that never fad<'s —
A lustrous light anud these (Ireenland sliades ;
All trustful of each other's love, we learn
With steady flame our lamp of Hope to burn :
And suns may set, and twilights disappear —
They shall not rob us of our ( 'hristmas cheer ;
Nor blinding drift, nor frozen wave, shall chill
Our laughter glad — for laugh, brave boys, we will ;
Kindling yet once again the genial glow
Of happy English homes on Arctic floe.
Yet once ngain ; for none would here forget
We are but sons of fathers living yet :
In work and play alike, we but renew
The deeds of men who taught us what to do.
And though, more favoured than the rest, we soar
To loftier flights than theirs who went before ;
Though ours the boast, by skilful guidance led.
In virgin climes our shifting scene to spread :
We love to read, ou history's faithful page.
Of ancient triumphs on our northern stage,
And boldly for our brave foreiunners claim
An Arctic 'cast' alrcaily knt>wn to fame.
'^* V.
i
)!ii^l
"'!!',?
■i-' . -i
jiri
I'!,;;: !
21(1 VOVAdJ': lO Till': POLAI! S|;a. Diuk.miu;!!, 1^7.■)
Now let tlu' tell-tale ("iiitaiu rihe, and t^ay
What \V(,' lia\(' dune to wile your liours away.
Such as W(( liave, we briny you of our best,
And to your kind forbearance leave the rest.
One only <>rief is ours, and you shall share
With us the l)urd(ni of that j^entle care.
One cherished form we miss — one touch alone —
One glance of love — one tender thrilling tone.
Ah I — in the sweet homes of our native isle,
The dear ones move, and minister, and smile.
We would not wish them here, but this we know —
Their thoughts are with us every step we go;
'I'iieir life sets northward o'er the cold grey sea,
They live in wondering what our life may be ;
And heart draws near to heart, and soul to soul,
Till each has ftjund its true ^Magnetic Pole.
God bless and keep them in His mighty hand—
Our wives and sweethearts, and the dear old Land !
1.11 V >'
.1 \.M VKV, \f^7t'>
NAi;iAi;].i: \vi:atjii:i;.
'11
CIIAPTEJJ X.
lliAL KKGI^TERS — KE'rUHMNO TWII.HiHI - <N0\V-rr.(i(1i; — STARS IN'
Till'] :\1II,KV-WAY — MKUOUKY I'lJoZEN — CONTUACTION OF CAHLES —
IIHAMU OE TUK EXI'KDITIOX — MUSKY I'LAVODR OK MKAT — AIISKNCE
OK PLAN 1:1 S — A LKMMINO CAI'TIUKI)-- DO(i-SI,Kl)(il.\(l — 'IKMrEUA-
TUHE OK IIIK SEA — KETUlt.N oK THK SUN — HANKS RAISED 1!Y ICE
PRESSURE — VEGETATION AT THE I'OEE.
Ox the Old of January a loiii*' coiitimiaiHU' of calm
wcallu'i' was followed l)y a squall IVoui the soiilliwai'd
accom])auic'(l willi a low bai'ouR'tcr and a (•olle(;tioii of
(lark cii'ro-sli'atus clouds which j^titheivd above Cape
Eawsou at the entrance of liobeson Chamiel. The
sky in the zenith was unusually clear bul of an
ominously dark appearance. The Avcather contiuned
very unsettled until the niuht oi' the lOth.
At not)n of the (ith and 7'h a low misty atmosphere
to the northward, beneath the almost full moon, was
briuhtened Avitli a (hstincl oranu'e tint. On the latter
day the temperature fluctuated considerably with every
cnanue
of th
e win(
On the 8tli and 9th, and morniuii' of the lUth,
stormy weather from the southwai'd and a hi^h tem-
perature were experieiu.'ed. The squalls were accom-
panied witli a blinding snow-diift, which preven
our leavmg tlie ship t'xcept duriiiLi' hills in the stor
lliey also effectually stoi)[)ed the usual maL>iietic obs
ted
m :
er-
I
V--
I
?^.|
218
\()VA(ii'; TO 'iTii'; I'oi Ai; si;a.
J \\i m;v
I J
ii>r
'?!
'^i
VMtioiis. '^riic (lircclioii of llic wind on llic iiiL'liI of
(lie !>lli could be alone dclcrniincd hy nl'lci'Win'ds
obsciAinu' iIh' direction of I lie sttstr/n/i.
It is Moticeahlc that alllioii_uli llif icadinLis oC tlie
bai'onu'lei's at yioebei'u' Heacli and Discovery l)ay a^i'ei!
|)recis(>ly toMC'tlief, none of these s(]nalls at any time
fcached the ' l)isco\-ery ' in hei' shejtei'ed |)osition ;
neithei- were the Ihictnalions '•; the tenipei'atnre so
Li'i'eat thefeasal the nioiX' uoi'thei'n station. For thirty-
six houi's, on the 8th and Otli, when the leniperatufe
at Discoveiy .l?ay was steady al miims 11", at Kloehei'u'
Jk'acli it was only minus 8°, a did'erence of thifty-six
(leuTces in lavouf of llie noflheiii station. I can only
conclude t
hat. tl
le ice must have oeen then in motion
in Robeson Cliannel, and tJial tJiere were w;iter-i)ools
to windward of" the 'Alert's' position.
' ]i)f/i. — DuriiiLi' the late ji'ales the drifted snow has
raised a. bank about live feet in heiuhl on the western
side of the ship which I'eaclu's to the embankment
at the bow and stern. In consequence of the increased
Aveiuht the (loe in tlie immediate iieiuhbourliood oi'
the vessel lias simk considerably; tlu' water has oo/i'd
■er tlie ice. On the starboai'd
le lloeberu', it is ;it least two
iij) and now Jlows o\
quarter, near the troublesoin
Wi
feet in depth.
' Owino- to the weiulit of the snow bearinii' down
the ice, the shi|) tore herself free from the lloe hist
ni^'ht, rising suddenly about a foot. This has disturbed
the tidal rej^ister considerably ; and unfortunately, when
taking down the ship's awninji' for repair, the register-
iii!j' wire was removed before I obtained the necessary
correction. When held down bv the ice the efiect
,,! h
1870
TIDAL I{j;({ISTK]{.
l!l()
would be l<» i'('<jisl('r ii lower tide lli.-iii llic triu- one,
llic crroi" coiitimuilly iiicrcnsinu- ; mikI .iIiIioiiliIi iIm'
ohscrvalions cjiii he coiTcclcd lor the sudden rise of
the ship, il is diHicult lo i-cuiiliilc llicm propciiy for hci'
••raduid sul)sid('iic('. 'Ilic corrccl mode of feuistciiiiu;
I lie lidal I'ise and lall would undoubtedly be lo ol)seiV(;
llie aclual lieiLiliI ol'llie waler ilsejl" as it rises :iiid falls
on liie pole; but owinu' to the very (jiiick aceiuuula-
tion of ice it is impossible lo do this with aeeuraey.
' Duriuu' the lieiuhl of the jLiale the ice Liiounded at
a LiTeater distance from the shore than usual, pi'ovinij,"
I hat the ])ressure of the wind on the pack liad caused an
exti'emely low tide, liie same as it would liaxc done
had the sea not l)een IVo/eii over.
'The strouLi' A\ind blew down one of the (juai'ters
of musk-ox meat wliicli w;is lianii'iug in the i-JL^uiuL''.
This was soon discoxcred by the doii's whicli had been
allowed on board out of llie severe weather; and a
considci'able f[uanlity of the meat, lliouuh frozen as
hard as a rock, was devoured before the accidejit was
iXH'tified. So greatly did ihey a])i)ruciate their meal that
shortly afterwards one do<f, in his endeavour to I'epeal it,
was found entangled at a heij^ht of several i-atlinjjs up
the liuu'inii', unable to advance or retreat. Frederick
Avas nothing loath to take advantage of his helpless con-
dition, and from the howls that ibllowed I suspect he
was punished for tlie sins of the many.
' When walking a short distance up the hill with
Feilden, we thought that we could distinguish a pool
of water in the oiling ; but on repeating my visit
durino- the evening I could see nothinir but ice. In
such dim light as ours the shadow^ cast by a line of
■Mi
m
w\
e>.
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Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 ^EST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, NY. 14580
(716) 873-4503
f/j
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lit
220
vov.uii; TO THK iH)i-.vii si;a.
J V.M Ai;v
iHimiiiocks iiijiy IV('(|ii('iitIy Ijc inishikcii for water. At
iiooii llic lolly iiiinl)iis clouds, wliicli arc only seen
diiriiiL?" a isnlv — cvidciilly driven ii|) here from warniei-
rcLiions many hundreds of miles away — were jJassiuLi
(juickly IVoni the S.W. to N.K. At (» r.M., when it was
ealiii in the lower reiiions, their eouisi- ehanL;i'(l to
S.lv, heavy masses colleetiuL! al)oul tlu' entrance of
L'ohes'jii Channel.
' ]2//((.— To-day at noon the sky close to the
horizon dis])layed a d<;cidi'd tint of lireen. tlie lirst we
h.i'vc e.xperit'iiced from the ri'tnrniiiL' sun, altlKMijjh we
ol)>er\cd a somewhat similar a|»|)earan( c a wi-ek aiio
caused by the moon. At 1) a.m. the leni|»erature was
only mimis )->". It nniy seem straiiLic that we thu>
complain of a rise in temperature, but such is the fact.
Everyone rejoiced when the tem|)eraturt' fell yesterday
to iiiimis "H)"". The e\|)lanation is that a hiiih tem-
perature indicates unst
'ttled
weather with wind, a low
teni|)erature means a calm, when the weather, liowever
cold, IS bearable.
" Walki'd up to the top of our look-out hill with
Feilden. This was the first visit of tlu' year. The
outside Hoes, lit up by a lull moon and the slioht mid-
day twilight, look extremely rouLih and lumimocky.
About a mile north of Ca|»e Sheridan was a sticak of
watei'-smoke, I'isiiiL!: evidently from a tidal crack. ^ly
coin|)aiiion, foru'ettin^- the cold temperature, lonmcd to
be there with a dredge.
' Owinu' to the com|)arativily sliiiht snow-fall
duriiiin" the hist few months, there is now far less on
the hill-tops than there was last autunui. In fact, on
the look-out hill the snow, which had then collected
1870
SNOW-Df.^r
221
to ;i (K'plll of two l"('('t, ;ili(l wllicll liild I'l'sistcd the
Si'[)lc'iiil)c'f Mild ( >rl()l»('f u iiids. liMs since (li<M|)])(':ifi'd,
]('!ivinu" llic Ln'oiiiid (|iiilc biiii'. iiiid ex|»()siii<^ to view
nil iiiiiplc sii|»])ly of toiii's l"or (Mifii-hiiildiiiLf. Tlu'
snow l)lowii iVoin \\\v upl;iiids li:is iifciiimil;it('(l on the
owcr ixroiinds inid on the ice.
It
cull now, liowevci
scniToly be c;illc(l snow, lor it liiis lost jill I'csenihluncc
to its origiiiiil fcatliciv composition, lionndcd oil' and
icducL'd in size hv attrition while heiiiL*" dril'ted aloni'
by the wind, it wonid be more appropiiate to desig-
nate it snow-dnst.
'.Vil iiaiids are employed in digging out the
entrances to '• Greenwich '' and " Kew." Fortmmlely
liie snow-honses were solidly built with blocks of snow
two feet thick, for now tliiy are com|)letely buried in
the snow slope which coxcrs the land at the foot of the
hills. The passage ways between the magnetic houses
weri' roofed with Hat slabs of extremely hard snow;
these are now all bendinu^ down with their own weight
and that of the sui)erineunibent snow, bnt fortunately
when accumulating, the latter solidified sufHciently to
form its own suj)|)ort, and we can now remove the
original tlat roof without danger.
'tSince the early pai't of December wi' have ceased
to be troubled by soft snow ; our walks are therefore
only curtailed on account of want of li'dit and the fear
of being caught at a distance from home with a sudden
fall in temperature or a blinding snow-drift.
'The actual footing is hard enough, but that does
not necessarily mean that the snow allords a level I'oad
for walking on. Not only are there the .s<isfrn(/l or
waves of siiow-drin lying in the direction in which the
»>')•>
VOVACK TO THE roLAIJ SKA
Jam AiiY
])r('\:iiliiiLi- wind Ims lu'cn blowiii*;, but on llic lnblc-
lands it lias fnrrowt'd oiil nnnici'ons short, dec]), and
irri'j^Milar ruts from a i'cw inclirs to two t'ci't and moi'c
in depth, leaving the surface like au a^dtated sea
suddenly fro/.eii. The rid<jes which are left were partly
uiidei'inined by the ii'ceiit winds and j.dve way readily
beneath our fi'cl ; they are sufliciently hard to sup|)oil
snow-shoes, but if usi'd these would snap with tlu
weiirht of the wearer when bridirin*' over the trou<dis.
When ])i'oceedint^ in the direction of the sasfnuii the
walkint^ is tolerable enouLdi, but otherwise it entails
\ery se\t're exei'tion, how sevei'e may be infei'red from
the fact, that when, after a hundred yai'ds of rouiih
walkiuLi", a level patch of snow is met with, the same
amount of exertion that was previously necessaiy
carries us forward foi- a shoi't distance at a i-nn ; nmcli
in the same manner as when arriving at the summit of
a hill, on ciossing the brow we find oui'selves for a
few moments s|)eeding along faster than we natui'ally
would on the tlat. The only exti'iisive level snow-
floors are on the side slopes of the hills and at the
bottom of the valleys lying in the direction of the pre-
vailing wind ; there the snow is so hard that Ave can
walk at our ordinary sj)eed.
' 10///. — The tem])erature has again fallen to minus
00°, a('com])anied as usual with calm, clear weathei'.
The twilight at noon extiuLniished all the stars in the
Milky-Way, as well as those of less than the second
maLMiitude within twenty degrees of the horizon. The
tint in the sky has increased fiom a bright pearly green
to a faint yellow hue. The ])resent small amount of
returning twilight enables us to discern how vei'V dark
i>:c.
DAIiKXKSS OF WINTKi:.
2 -J 3
it llllist li;i\(' Ix'cll durillL'" llir lilllcr |>;|l'l of DcccllllxT,
;iltiK)ii^''li :il llh' tiiiH' \\»' linrdly fcMliscd tlic I'mcI. In
(•()in|)iiiin_L'' tin' miiiilxT of (iiiys' Mhsciicc of the sun cx-
jK'iii'nccd by dillrrcnt Arctic cxiu'ditions it is iiuIkt
stiifllin.iT l*> iiiid liow inucli dafki-r it Ims been with ns,
l)Ul licrc. owiiiL' to t!i(' sin;iil inclination ol the sini's
patli to onr lioiixon. twiliulit lasts considcrahly loiiLrci"
on cither side ot' noon. Tn fact the actnal ainonnt
ot" li^ilil and daiUness experienced (hifintf the yeai' at
all i)laces in oin* heniis|)hei'e is |)i-ecisely the same,
lleic \\t' ha\i' one Ioiil!" day and one Ioiilt \\\[i\\\ ; in
soiitheiii lalilndes it is i'af moiv userully di\ided into
the oi'dinaiT <lay.'^ and iiiLdils.
'OwiniLi' to the oNci'flowinjj' of llio fire-hole anothef
one lias been cut fai'thei- IVoni the shi|). In faisinL'the
tide-|K)le IVom the bottom, a (jnaiitily ot' liai'd ufey
land was I'onnd stickino- to tlie end of the poK' wliefe
it had been ])i'esse(l with ufeat I'ofce into the ufound.
This apju-ais to indicate that the <if()nn(l at the bottom
is not IVoxen. At a shoi't distance tVom the iH'ach,
I'oi' as lai' as the IVesh water can by any means pef-
colale down ihrouiih the ufound with the temoei'ature
of the sea at 'iS'o. the bottom is ])rol)ably fro/en.
'])uiing the afternoon we expei'ienced squally
weatliei" IVom the southward; the temperatui'e at
inimis 4U , fisiuiJ: twenty deiifees in as manv minutes,
an
d fall
in<>" a'jaiii loufteen dcLirees in ten minutes
It is remaikable that this wai'in wind passed the
sheltei'ed jjosilion of Discovery ]^ay \vit]u)ut alFeetiiiu'
the temperature there. The thermometer at thai
plaee ranged between minus 49° and minus 52°.
' IS///. — While walking; at some distance from tlie
I
h i^
221
VOYAr.K TO TIIK I'OI.Al} AK\.
•1 \NIA1!V
ship M *' lu'jir sciii-c "' is iiol iinconiinoii ; l)iil when we
('<)iisi(h'i' how (hlliciill it would he loi" these ;iiiiiiiiils to
see oi- ciiptiire their |»rey in the (hirkness which eiive-
lo|)es us, thill tliere is no open wiiter, Jiiid tliei'elore
very tew seals in oui' vicinty, we eoncliide thnt it is
idniost beyond the raiiiic of ])rol)al)ility that these
animals sliould wander in winter to our latitude. Still
there is no certainty in these niattei's, and few of us
are exempt from a momentary f'eeliiiL;- oi" nervousnes>
as the retui'iiing liiilit now and ajiain discloses sud-
denly some pre\iousIy unnoticed ohjecl.
' 'i'he slii]) is now heeliuLi' over from two to three
dejii'ccs to port. As the tide rises and falls she is
pivssed over by the tidal motion exerted on the thick
ice-hinu'e Ivinu' between us and the iloebei'if on the
starboard side, and by the weight of the snow bearinu'
down the ice on the port oi' inshore side.
'The smokers complain areatly about their tobacco
pipes freezinu'. Unless the stem is very short it soon
l)ecomes clouu'ed with frozen tobacco iuice which
defies all attem|)ls to remove it by wires.
' When ti'avelling a satisfactory smoke could only
be obtained in the morniuL!", after the ])i])e had been
thawed near the body durino- the niiiht. If liohtedon
board the shi]) where the temperature kee])s it thawed.
ai
id then taken into tlie air, it bec(
)nK's s(
)lidlv
Irozen
before it is smoked out ; coiisecpiently very litlK'
smokiuiji; utH's on outside the ship. In addition to this
difliculty, the few Avho |)ersevere in smokinu' with
shortened ])ipes, well covered, complain of shortness
of breath and a chokinu' feelinn-.
"2i)t/i. — Mereurv has been frozen all dav. That
1^70
KVAroiJATION (»r SX(»\V
22 r>
ill iIm' llicrnionictcrs contnictcd Lirjulniilly Ml'lcr IVcc/,-
iiiu', and l)y s(> doiim icuistcrcd llic .mcIikiI IciiipcrMtiirc
toleruMy cont'ctly. imlil it fell to jihoiil iniims •I"'''');
ix'low tliiil (l('|ii't'*' tlu' coiiti'aclioii was iri'cunlai" and
increased e()iisidei"al)ly.
'The a|i|>elites of all are retiiriiiiin- in a most niai"-
vellows iiiaiiiMT ; so imieh so that instead of tlu»
allowance ol' meat not heiiiL! all used as in the fall of
the year, there is now scarcely siillicient. It is dillicnll
to account lor our loss (►l" a|)|>etite in XoNcmher.
Sir Ivlward JU'lcher remarks the same fact as hasiiiL!"
occurred on hoai'd the " vXssistance " in ISo^-a:').
*■ While workinjj' in a snow-house on shore Dr.
Moss ohsei \'es that any small quantity ol" snow left on
the Li'ravel floor of the house has evaporated helore
jiis return on the lollowinii' day ; the moistui'e set free
risiiirr and collectiiiLi' on the inside of thi' dome of the
house as rime. Tliis |)rol)al)ly ex|)laiiis the nature of
the decay which takes |)lace on the 'iiider surface of
the whole extent of the snow coveriiiLi" the around ;
l)V w
hieh
means a <*lear s|)ace is |>i-<)(luce(l some one or
two inches liiiih, <j:ivin_i>' ani|)le room for the lemmiiijjs
to run about, and free space above the dwarf Arctic
jihmts, with an uniform temperature nmny decrees
hijiluT than the atmos|)here. If the same decay takes
place lielow^ ice it must j^reatly assist in producinu' the
downward movement of a ulaciei".
' 24/A. — A very low barometer, 2!)-()2 inches, with
dark clouds liauLiinL!; above Ca|)e Kawson, but the
weather continues calm with a tempei-atnre down to
minus 58°. Thoujxh many noses were frost-bitten we
all " did" the " ladies' mile" as usual, with lu'ads well
>n
t
VOL I.
^i
•Jii;
\(tVA(;i: yo \\>\: \'n\,\\i ska.
J \M AltV
,*<'
111
\vi'!i|>|>c<l ii|). Hoods (HI iIh' sealskin dresses jillord
\aliiiil)le pi'otectioii, Ixit llie edijcs coiled a lai'ije aiiioiiiil
of Irozeii vapour wiiicli i! is dilliciill lo remove. A
coiiitoi'lei' eo\criiiiL;' the lower part of the face IVee/es
to tile heard and from its IiidiiiLi- the chin is d;inL!erons.
One odicer was IVost-hitten in this way lor some time,
without his conipaiiioii heini:' al)h' to observe it and
warn him. He is now sullerinL; in conse(jnence.
'The twiliiiht at noon is increasino- very rapidly,
fjookinii" in a soiithei'ly Uii'ection we can now jnsi
distinniiish a man at a distance of one hundred and
twenty-live yards; lookinii in a northeily direction
with our backs to the liu'ht we can see an individual
at a distance of oni' hundi'ed and seventy-live yai'ds.
but this a|)plies only to mid-tlay.
'With the cold weather the ice has conti'acted and
cra(
■ked
near
the si
lori' : the ti'iiiporature in each crac
is minus '2°, which maybe taken as tlie maximum tem-
perature of the vapour ascending:" from the water. 1
therefore conchide that unless there is some open
watei' ill our iieiLihbourhood it is imi)(>ssible for us to
e.xperieiice a warmer temperature than this betore the
return of spriiiu'. The amount of contraction is well
marked by the oi)eniiiu- of two parallel cracks between
the land and the llocbcrjis ; these fissures, which ari'
!-' '
on
an avei'auc
two and-a-half inches acrins, beini!'
about three hundred feet a])ait. A cask, situated on
the intei'mediate ice, su|)i)()rtini>' the chain cable which
connects the ship with the shore, has rolled back one
inch. Unless we sup|)ose the ship and the mass of
lloebero's restinu' on a base of at least one hundred and
liftv yards broad, to have moved ofl" shore, the cables
fu' ■■
lf<7(t
CONTI.'ACTION UK ClIAIN CAIUJIS.
2-7
one Iniiidrcd mikI ciLsIily yards in Iciiulli imisl also
have cijiitrjicli'd very considerably, lor in I lie aiitmiin
tlioy wort' iiuToiy Mfi'lclit'd fairly li^ht ; now llu-y an;
so inucli strained that it lias been necessary to slack
tlieni eiu'll' feet.
'Dniin;^' the evenin^i the sonlherly wind foretold
by the low barometer I'eached us; with as usual a
very fln<'tuatin;i' teni|tei-ature. At !) I'.M., while it, was
almost calm on deck, a sjiarp s([uall, force '), lastiniu-
fifteen minutes, was heard as it passed thiouiih the
riij'LiinL!' aloft. The tem|)eratnre rosi' fi'om minus 52°
to minus oO° in liftv-livc minutes, and on a sudden
chaujie of wind to the uorthwai'd it fell twi'utv-one
decrees in half an hour.
'The frequent lluctuations of temperature which
we have experienced durinji' the wintei' show how
fallacious are comparisons of the tem|)ei-atures ex-
pei'ienced at dillerent ])ositions in the Arctic reoioiis
when adopted as the sole uiiide towards asceilaininu'
the position of jireatest cold. A local wind IVom the
southward, blowini^ uj) Smith Sound and Eobeson
Channel, pi'oduces a rise in temjjerature which would
certainly not be exi)erienced at a more sheltered
station fifty miles to the westward of our j)osition.
Our yearly mean temj)ei'atui'e is therefore eiitiri-ly
dependent on the mnnber of soiithei'ly disturbing oales
which we may experience.
' Owinj.*- to the limited quantity of mist hanging-
sibove liobeson Channel, I infer that this last <*'d\e was
not sufficiently severe to move the ice there, and thut
the channel must now be frozen o\t'r completely.
With a difference in tempi'rature of eighty dejjrees
1I2S
VOYAdK TO TIIK I'OF.AW SKA.
•IaM AI!V
Ir , < '
iK'twccii lIiMt »)(" llic Wilier :iii(l lilt' iiir. ihc .'iliiiosplicic
miisl lu'ccssiirily Ix' misty iic.ir i\ wiih'i'-pool.'
Ai'tcrwjii'ds \\( loiiiid llinl iicillicr llu' soiitlicily
wind iioi" llic v\<r ill Iciiipcrnliii'c wcic t'xiK'riciiccd ;il
Discovery r»;iy, llic Iciiipcniliirc ihcrc riiiiLjiiiL: ln'l wccii
inimis r>()" :iiid iiiiiiiis IJ))'^.
Tl
)(' iiiMiiiicr III winch wiiK
I ivl
)()niids (roni a sIccm
cliir. lcii\ iiiL'' il ciiliii :il liic l);isc, or. in ii:iiilic!il piir
Ijiiicc, "docs nol blow home :iLr;iiiisl llic wenlhersliore,'
is well indicnied liere 1)V llie colleclions of siiow-drifl,
As il
le wind eiiconnlers nil ohslriiclioii il divide
|)iissincr oil ciiher side nnd aUoNc willi iiicrejixMl
streiiLilli ; 1)111 so gre:il is the I'elhix in IVoiit, iIimI the
snow-drit'l falls and sellles lliere, rormini^ a hank
iiicliiiiii,!i' npwai'ds accoinliiiLi" to the lieijj'lil ol" the
obstacle.
i *^
]\sf. — Teinpei-alnre minus 40°. E.xcept I'or a
short lime on the 21th, and aj^'aiii on the 28lli, I he
mercury in the thermometers has been iVo/.eii Ibr the
last clcNcii days. To-day the barometer is i'alliiii. and
{he stnitus cIoikN. the usual precursors of a southerly
wind, are collectinif above (*a|»e liawson.
'l)uriiiglhe recent cold weather the lower-deck was
damper than usual, rendering il necessary to increase
11
le supp
Ivof
coal ; at I Me same tmu' some
of tl
le venti-
lating IuIh's which were " u|)takes " in ordinary weather,
when the dinerence of temperature between ihe inside
and outside of the ship was only about I'ightv decrees,
became " downtakes " whenever tlie dilference increased
to above one hundred dem
ces.
When left open too
niueli cold air comes down, which neeessitates extra coal
lu'ing used to (hy it and prevent it condensing on the
heams oxei
liead.
lH7n
CttNTI.'ACTloN ol" ICi;
»>.)()
it * 'riiroii<j,lioiii ilic wiiiicr ihc iVo/cii rondciiMitioii
^t. Ilirll collects ;i> ice in the ll|>|)c|- |»;irl of e:icli eiil r;ilice
li;itcll\VM\' ll;is li:i(| to he I'eiiioNcd \S('ekl\- willi >li;ili>
scriip'Ts. AlllioiiL'li my ciii)iii is iieifeclly iliy, :iii(l
llie leliil»eliittire I'liliucs lietwceii 10" :ili(l (50 \ :ili il'oii
lioll wliicll cNlelids lliiou^fji the ship's side coikIiicIs llie
cold so I'eiidily ihiit moisture li;is coMected on the end
ot" it, loi'ming ii projecting ronnd he;id of >olid ice.
like the lu'iid of ;» hoiler iIncI np\\;ii(l> oi" :in inch in
deplii. Speio C'jipiilo, my stewni'd, ici;io\e(l it daily
lor several wi'eks, hut he has now heconu- leconciled to
its pfescMct'.
'Owing to misty weather the occultalion ot" Mars
was lost.
' Oiij- iiearot IViiMKlly. or |terliaps nnt'riendly. lioe-
herg has rolled over towartis tlu' ship, pro\ing thai
ihe inshore ice is still contiacling with the colder
weather, and that there is no ollshore motion in the
il()el)ergs. 'j'he cracks in the Hoc are also more open
iJian before. In conse([uence ol' the moNcnieiit of onr
neighbour, the snow embankment has fallen away
from llie shirboard side of the ship and will re(|iiire a
<'onsideral)le tuiiount of labour to repair it.
'The moon \villbeabo\e both hori/ons to-nioi-row,
so allhoujiii llu' sun will not return for anoiheilmonlli.
\s
e consider our dark period at an end. On the
moon leaving us in a foitnights time we shall have
sufiicii'iil twilight to enable us to read small print for
ujnvards of three liours daily when outside of the ship.
During the last few days we have each been straining
our eyes to try and read ordinary print. The near-
sighted men have a great advantage over the others.
i.iiT
*)
*j;u)
\()VA(ii; To Tin; ihh.au ska, iim aki
Wi" fjiiii'V lliiil our cycsiiilit is slroni^'cr tli:iii 1m foi-c ''tj
uiiilcr coiiiiiiciiccd, hiil llic in'csciicc of llic moon \\
|)i('\ciit our dccidiu;^' tlic (|U('sliou.
' 'I'lic hciuus :ui(l ccilin;^ ol' tlic nicss-dcck iuc
lK'('oinin<_' liillicr l)lii('l\ iVoiu llic liiiups so coustjiully
burning.
' Fi'hnmi'ii I.s7. — At the niontlily nicclicid iiispcc-
lion lo-diiy, willi llic cxccplioii of two of llic crew, all
arc rc|)oi'lcd lo nic as ])ciiig in llic best of licaltli. Tlic
1 wo men wlio sleep iiearcsl lo llie ciilrance liatcliuay
complain of llic drip from llic heaiiis daiii|>iii,<j^ llieir
liammocks during llic laic cold wcallier. Tlic remedy
was simply lo change llieir sleeping-places.
'To-day the ice formecl lliis season measured (Ifly-
onc inclies in
lliici
kness.
Si
nee
he
fi
eexm<j[ o
f th
sodden Hoe on llic 22iid of Oclober no increase oi*
decrease lias lakcii |)]acc on llic surface. I ccrlaiiily
ex])ccle(l to have found the- surface of the Hoc lowered
by
evaporation.
bill
such is IK
)t ll
K' casi'
On the morninfr of the 2iid, at FloeberLr licacli we
■n
cxpi'ricnced a breeze from the N.N.W., force 0, which
lasted twenty-four hours. It was accompanied us u.sual
by u rising biirom<'t.r, but strangdy I'lioiigh also by
a heavy fall of snow, and a rise in temperature u|) to
minus ^° instead of the usual fall. On the 3rd a
return S.S.W. wind blew for eight lioui's, the baro-
meter still rising, with a high ihermomeler. At I)is-
eovLMy Bay a somewhat similar I'ise in temperature was
ex])erience(l, with a heavy fall of snow, ])ut as usual
in that locality, with very little wind.
After a short calm, on the morning of the 4th, a
very heavy gale from the northward set in, lasting at
1 Si 7(1
si;\ i:i;k d \i,i;
•j;{l
il> full >lrciiL:'ili iiiilil S a.m. (.f iIk- ,'>i1i. The •!►!>-
coNcry' lln'ii <'.\|)ciiciic((| liuhi ;iii>, hm ;il I'lorlx-ri.'
Hciii'li llic wind (lid iiol lull until the cscninLf. ()u'in<r
fo tlic |)('<'uliiM' jiosilion «»r llic • I ►i>(<»\ciy.' Iirnmicfl in
l>\' lolh iu(iunl;iin>, llic .-(inall- ucic \«'i\ licjiw iiuil
IrcipM'nllv blew IVnni llic >()nlli\v:ird.
In llic loL' I)()(>1\ il Wiis cnlci'cd. tlmi in (■«hi>c(jucim('
(»r llic wcMllicr, |»niycrs wnc icjid (i,i tin u|»|icr deck
inslcad of on llic ice, llu' iir>i rniic liial il had been
necessary to do so duri III/ llic wlicr; .iI>o Hmi >no\v-
pillafs two feet by one, wliei, broad>ilc 'o llic wind.
Wi'i'i' blown down a id caiiied al")Ui two lecl in .1
soiitlierlv difcclion. Aflci' tlic lmIc was over, lii'jli
cnTo-cuinulus clouds were obser\('d nioMiiiJ: li'oni the
iiortli-wcsl, a Ncry unusiial |)lieiioiiicnon.
Il is dcserviii<»" of iiolicc llial on lliis occasion tlic
teni|)cralurc was niiicli luLdicr under tlic Ice ol" llic land
at Discovery I'ay lliaii at the |)ositi()ii of the 'Alert
on the wcatliershorc. At I he roiiiicr |»lacc the nuixiniuiu
teni|)eraturc registered was j)lus 2" and al the lallcr
iiiiims 10°.
' oyv/. — The •• Thuisday ro|)>." as llicy are called,
arc as much a|)|)reciatcd as cNcr; ihcy coininaiid
full audiouccs and show no sioiis of fallinu off. 'J'he
songs in chafaclci* are adiniral)ly gol up. and "llic
lad
ics " havi' now becon
nc ])ci'li'ctly al home
in ih
dresses. Dr. Colaii lliis I'vciiing gave us an interesting
lectui'e on llie composition of the fo»)d sup|)lied to us.
He was very haj)py in making such a dry subject
amusing as well jis instructive.
' Gth. — Sacrament Sunday. Mustered on the ice
by sledge erew's for the ihsl time; but in conseciueiice
tot ••
iic
ill
2;; 2
VOVACJE TO THE POLAll SKA.
Eiwiia'AUY
i^ li
Sl'l'tl
liiBll .
of misty woiillicr wv could liol clcMrly dislinmiisli t^acli
otl
K'l' S IMCC'S
1:
Call
HI weather witli a. temperature at
minus 20° permitted us all to leuglheu our usual daily
walk.
' The late gale from the northward having raised a
new set of snow ridges at I'ight ani^les to the usual line
of tile .sY/s/m/?', Avliieh lies in an east and west dii\'etion,
has rendered walking more hihtirious than it was before.
The " ladies' mile " has now niaiiv ridges crossing it;
fortunately the qui(.'kly returning light will soon enable
us
to U
eave tiiat well-worn trai
11-
Feild
en am
1 I
I'eached the valley under Cape llawson, but owing
to the decei)tive light and want of shadow we ex-
perienced many a slip over the rough ))laces, being
unable to distinguish the raised from the (lei)ressed
irregularities in the snow.
'The last of the ])atients that were frost-bitten in
the autumn gt)t on deck to-day, after s|)eiiding nearly
four months on the lower-deck and the greater part of
tl
le tune in
bed.
It is to be remarked that three out of the four
frost-bitten men, who obtained so little exercise (lui'iiii>'
the
winter, jjroved themselves iii the sprin
Ih
nr
to 1
)e ill
an excellent state of health, and although they were
not employed on the most extended sledging service,
they were absent from the ship as long and performed
as hard work as any of the other men.
' Sth. — Since the late gales we have enjoyed mag-
nilicent weather with a temperature just below the
freezing i)oint of mercury.
'I walked towards Cai)e llawson with Mr. Pulleii.
The rocky sid(?s of the valley near Cape Eawson, swepi
l>^7f.
vol. Ml PACK.
_•*•♦
clear of snow l»v llic wind, once aL'.'iin l'i;hI(Icim'<I oiii*
(.'Ves \v
illi llicir (lark hi'ouii coloiii-;
Iiili:il>itaiitr
of soiitlu'ni cliiiic's, suddenly li"aii>|)orled to ."-lu-Ii a
sreiie. would doubtless Iia\e pi'onounced it the veiT
acme ol' desolation ; hut to oui' eyi's, wearied witlie\er-
pii'seul whiteness, these sad-coloui'ed rocks and diii'iy
jivciiaces seeine(
1 1
o rellecl hues of extiaordinai'V
preci)
beauty.
' We obiaint'd a vvvy line \ iew of the pack for a
distance of six miles liom the land. The southern .<ide
of each purely white snow-covered hummock \vti.<
brilliantlv liudited bv liie orauire-tinted twiliLrht. The
stranded lloebergs lining the shore extended fjoin half
to thi'ee-(|uartefs of a mile ofTlhe land. ( )iit>i<le were
old Hoes with undulating u|)pei' sui'fa
iVom each other bv Sheiard OsboriTs
ce
ejial
:ite<l
hed
fje rows
of Ai'ctic landscape" or bairiers of |)ressed up ice- of
variour' heiuht and bix-adlh. It will be as dilliciilt t
M
dl
drag a .sledge ovei" such ice as to traiisj)ort a carnage
(lire(
tly
Wl
acnj.ss couiitrv in Enirlaiid.
len looking down on this icy sea, one o
f iny
lizi
compamons remarked how unpossiMe it was to realize
that water would ever exist there asxain.'
During the following spring 1 arranged with
Captain Stephenst)n that the three ice-(piarterma>t«M>
belonging to the 'Discovery,' men ex|)ei-ience(l in tlie
Lee i:a\i<iation of BaHin's Bay, should \isit the • Ah-rt."
to see for themselves the' Tolai" ice
So conij)
let eh
w
1 an-
as the ship entrapped and surrounded l)y an aj
])arently massive wall of lloebergs and the lieavy
Polar pack, that they exclaimed — 'She'll ne'er get out
of that.' With such a \iew l)efore them the expre»ioM
li'fi
S- .(11
mi
■f
•' ;i
tMl^l
2?A
VOYAtJE TO TUE I'OLAJJ SKA.
FKitKr.vitv
\v:is f;y from being jiii imiKiliii'iil one; imd, indeed, if
tlie reniovid of tlu; ice, formed during the nine winte:'
montlis, between September tnid May, xriiile the tem-
perature of tlie air is l)elow the freezing |)oint of salt
water, Averc de])endent alone on tlie decay caused by
the heat of the sun dui'ing the three months of sunnner,
the ice in the Polar seii would ceiMainly accunudate
and eflectually j)revent any navigation
The due bahuice in the ([uaiitity of ice in the North
Polar sea is jH'eserved, ;uid navigation I'endered ))ossible,
by the drifting southward of the pack to a more tem-
j)erate region, there (odissolve, leaving navigable water
tiij)aees in its i-ear
Th
lere is also a considera
ble
mioimt
of decay ])ro(luced by the warmth trans|)orted north-
wards by the oceanic currents.
It is only in narrow chaimels, Avhere, in consequence
of the contraction in the breadth of the .stream, the
tidal currents run at a maximum late, that the ice
•iob
itn di
tl
Ii
•h 1.1:
ai.s.soives m snn durmg tiie summer, in sucii | daces as
Et)beson and Kennedy Channi'ls and Ik'llot Straits,
the ice foims late in the season, and owing to its
Avejikness, is more readily broken up dm-ing heavy
gales ; consequently ])olynias or water-pools are met
with on rare occasions thitnighout the winter, and
during the eai'ly sunnner the thin ice decays before
the surrounding ice has broken u|).
'Yesterday we ex))erieiiced a decided musky taste
in the musk-ox meat. Up
) to the present time.
although there have been a few com|)laints, the meat
hais been excellent. I heard through my steward that
the shij/s company's allowtuice was tainted. Thinking
that there might be a prejudice against the meat, I
1.^7f5
MUSK-OX MEAT.
•> ^ \
waited to sih; wliiit would liii|)|K'n :il tlio ward room
table; l)iit it was soon evident tliat there was no liias
oil the mess-deck, one and all exclaiming al)ont the
musky flavour, but not wishing to lose a IVesli meal
meal we all j)ersisled in eating it. The after ct)nse-
(juences wei'e far from agreeable, for several of us had
the uius
ky ili
ivour m our mouths all mght and this
morning; in fact last night it was an excuse for an
extra pipe and glass of grog which, howevei', did not
morning many, even of those
mend matters.
This
who did not try the connective, complain of headache.
It is impossible to ascertain with any certainty why
this ])iece of meat was |)ervaded with such a strong
musky flavour; it is su|)j)ose(l not to have been skimied
for foul" or five hours after it Avas killed. In nearly all
cases wlierc
tl
le cai'case wa.'-' skimiec
d and
cleaned im
mediately after the animal was killed the flesh was
free from taint ; but whether the skinninjx or cleaninjr
IS
th
e
matter
more
amoi
imj)ortant operation is
an undecided
igst us. With tainted meat the ])art
nearest, the outside has ;i more musky flavour than that
near the bone.'
So many musk-oxen were shot by the crew of the
'Discovery' at a distance from the shij), during the
autumn, that they were obliged to be left on the
ground iinskiimed and imcleaned for several hours,
before being carried on board. Nearly all the meat,
thus left for a time imi)repared, [iroved to be unfit
for food owing to its musky flavour,
' \)th. — Temperature minus 50°. The calm weather
of the autumn seems to have returned to us, but the
severe cold prevents our wamlering far from the ship.
^
m
m
f
!:i^
23(;
voYAGi-: TO Tin-: tolau sea.
Fi:iiurAi:v
' -1
So long as it reiniiiiis calin wc ciiii rcrruljilo tlic licnt
of oui- bodies very rciidily by wnlking (aster oi' siowci',
but tlie sliglitest bivi'/.c conqiK'i's us ;it once. Altli()u<fli
we iill carry an additional conijbiler iciidy to tie
round our laces, yet we are wealing no extrii clothing.
'Only three days ;igo the sun was the saniedistMnce
below our hoi'ixon as it wiis on the shortest djiy in
Lancjister Sound, where T pjissed the wintei's between
1852 and 1854 on board the '* Resolute ; " but to
make U]) foi- its longec absence in this latitude the
sun is now i'eluniin<x at the latc of one dem'ee in
eveiy three days. To-day at noon, wiieii thei'e was
a clear sky oNcriiead, stai's ol' the second magni-
tude could be distinguished, but only in the noi'thein
heavens. The southern sky was clear of all stars
excej)t tlic planet Venus shining as a brilHant while
light close above the southei'ii u])lands, sometinii's
hiding herself behind a ridge, then ap])ea]'ing again as
she passed a hollow. IVmi degrees liigher Mais could
just be distinguished by those who knew where to
look. Uiifoi'tunately these are the only ])lanets that
have visited us dui'iiifr the winter, and thev have but
hitely a])peared.
'The light enabling us to extend our walks in
other directions, the "ladies' mile"" is nearly deserted.
Eeturning to the shi]) when we arrive at the end of
this well-kiK)wn I'oad, it feels like approaching one's
home, and however tired, once on the well-beaten
track we foi'get that we are weary. Everyone without
exce])tioii is complaining of shortness of breath. I
certainly do not remember experiencing the same at
Melville Island, but it was probal)ly the case; ' e
IHTO
LKMMlXdS.
>) '> —
sii|)|)()se it (liic
to tl
\v cxccssivelv co
.1(1 t
ciiiperaluri'
111 more tliiiii oiu' iiistjinci' severe I'lmiiiiit:^ has been
followed l)V l)loo(I-s|)ittiii<j tV«)ni otherwise healthy
men.
' I walked a short distance onl to the iioi'thward
among the hmnnioeks with Mv. Wootloii. Althongh
the snow-banks aiv hard, vet it is eertaiiilv as roiiifh a
ro
lid 1
oi" sledo-cs as can be imagined
'Egerton reports having t'onnd the li'aek of a liai'e
on the land. It will not be long Ix-foic ])i'. Moss, onr
most ])er.severiiig hnnter, shoots the poor ereatn.'i'.
A 1
ew pieces ol musk-ox mea
t.lefl
trom ves
y
■<terd;
•y
A\
ere again cooked by accident to-day ; detection was
iimnediate. The musky llaxoiii' appaiently increases
the moi'e the meat is cooked.
' 12///. — rreparations are being made for the spi-ing
travelling campaign. To-daj' all the tents were spread
on the ice to ascertain whether fiirthei' alteration was
necessary. In the autmnn we found that none of
them quite I'eached the full nieasui-euient ; they have
now been altei'ed. allowing sixtivn and a half inches
to each man, or r;:tliei" tlui'ty-three mclii's
th
bet
ween
two men sleeping head to fool as they are obliged to
do when sledgiiig. Less si.ace may l)e conducive to
warmth, but probably also to cramp.
'While walking yesterday with ]*arr, we found a
hare's burrow in the snow, and to-day Markham has
found another. It is difficult to say how these hares
can protect themselves from the foxes, whose footmarks
we have seen lately, but it would a|)pear that there are
very few in the neighbourhood. Lemmings are also
luaking their ai)[)earance ; we fuitl their holes in the
238
VOYAOK TO TlIK TOLA II SI'.A.
Fi;ill!V.\l!Y
m
snow ovi'i-ywluMv. Tlicse holes jirc nppnrciilly inadi'
for tlic i)iir|K)sc of vciitilalloii or for the little ci'eatiircs
to look at the ri.*turiiiii|L2- twilight, for they do not often
ii|)|)ear on the snifare of the snow at this season ; still
theii' tracks which are veiy pretty, reminding one
of a strip of fniely traced embroidery, aiv to be seen
here and thei'e. They ap))ear to be nsnally contented
witli the exercise they get in the hollow space nnder
the snow, where the teniperatni-e is veiy little below-
zero ; their nests nuist l)e considerably wanner. I
have tiied to find these, bnt they are never sitnated
near to the bottom of the ])assage by which the; lem-
ming's come to tile snrface.
' On examining a |)lant of Sa.cifr(i(/a oppimtifoUn.,
which has not been ])rt)tected by juiy snow, and there-
foi'e has been exposed to the severest temperatnre,
green buds were distinctly visible. In 1853 we killed
;i ptarmigan at Melville Island in February with green
buds of willow in its erop.
' To-day, at noon, we could distinguish the outline
of a man at half a mile distant and faint blue and green
tints were observable in the ice-hunnnocks ; since the
1st of November up to this date the ice has been per-
fectly white and colourless.
' \iith. — All the frost-bitten people have at last
been put out of the sick list. The temperature remains
remarkably steady at about mivMs 48° with calm
weather. A few of ns walked to the southward beyond
the " Gaj) of Dunloe," The snow is soft in places, bnt
nowhere is the walking very ])ad ; the uncertainty in
the footing is, however, most annoying. When an
apparently hard suiface turns out to be soft the severe
]S7(5
i)()<;s.
2>;y
^li;iki> is iniicli more* tryiiicc ll'ii') wlicii wjilkiiiu throuixli
snow of tlic sainc (k'ptli known to Ix' soft. On our
rt'tuiMi, when ;il)out ;i mile disuint IVoni the ship, wi'
cxperii'nci'd a li_Li;lil l)r('i'X(> for al^out k'li niiinitcs; witli
so k)W a tein|)i'ralurc' the sensation of stin^fing cokl in
the exposed pafts of our faces, was intensely jjainfuk
'Markliani's (\o<^ '• Xelly," tiiat is pei-niitted to Hve
on tlie k)wer-(k'ck, enjoys liei'self won(K'ffully when
taken out on tiie iee, and apj)ears only to feel the
severe eold in her paws, which become cloifged with
ice-balls between the toes ; slu' does not complain much
unless hei- walk is extended beyond a distance of fouf
or live miles, when the ice having time to accumulate
cuts into the liesh. Tiie similar troubles of ouf j)ooi'
Eskimo dogs aiv now close at hand ; they will com-
mence exefcisiiiijf dui'ing the coming week.
'To-day the United States IMountains to the north-
west were visible ; the Greenland hills in the op])osite
direction have been very distinct for several days.
'Tiie donble doors over the entiy hatchways
having been more cai'efully closed, and the leaks
re])aired in the porches, the lower-deck has l)een much
drier lately, notwithstanding the cold weather.
'The sjH'ing-tides continue tos|)lit and force u[) tlu'
ice between the ship and the neighbouring lloeberg.
The cold weather has not only cracked the floe in
many places but several of the lloebei'gs have split
through the middle, the cracks opening and the pieces
sei)arating from each other.
' Vlth. — Still the same calm, cold weather with a
light mist hanging within about a hundreti feet of the
ice; above that the atmosphere is remarkably clear.
W
i
^f
240
v<tVA(;K TO TiiK por.Ai; ska.
lM:in;r\i!Y
,tjm
Fi'om tlic look-out ciiini llic OrcciiliiiKl hills mtc to he
seen risiii!^ iiI)o\(' tlic mist, the upper smfjict' of which
is j)i'iri'ctly h'vc'l.
'I hfive ('X|K'i'ieiic('(l trouUlc in obtjiiiiiiig tlie jiccu-
Tiite tcinpoi'iituic of the sen, in coiiscHpiLMK'o of thcther-
Hionu'lcr l)('('oniiii<.^ coatcil with ice iiiniie(h;ite]y it wms
tiiken out of the water and exposed to the air. The
lii'st time the tliennometei" w^as lowei'cd, it I'cgistered a
temperature of 28°".'), but each time sul)se(|uently,
when it was coated with ice. it rannred between 28°
and 28'''2. To-day the tliei'inonu'tei- was phiced in
waj'm watt'r between each obsei'vation, to insure all
the ici' beiiiii' reuKtNcd, and not lowered befoi'e it
i-eu'isterod a temperature of about 40°. The mean of
seven observations then gave the temperature at the
bottom in forty-two feet of water as 28°-r)4. At a
deptli of two feet bi'low the surface it was the same,
and with the bulb of the tliermometer ])laeed in tiie
tVeexing siutlge, it marked 28°; which may betaken
as the temjterature at which the sea-water was chaiiuf-
ing into ice. The instant that any |)Mrt of the glass
bulb was exposed al)ove the sludge the temperature fell
considerably. The ice which colleeted on the lowering
j'opo Avheu out of the water, became thawed and fell
of!" when ])ut back into the Avater at a temperature of
28°-5.
' During the winter several Aveakly dogs have died
from lits, or have been shot, leaving one strong team
of nine dogs, as many as we can possibly feed on the
uj)'s ration.
Yesterday thev (
ly tliey commencea exercism
(»■.
])reparatory to a trij) to Discovery T3ay early in March.
Eaw.^on and E<ivrton with Fi'ederick took them beyond
187tJ
AHCTIC VI'GKTATION.
kj
Cji])0 Kawson ; only oiio fit occurred (luring tlic ^ix
miles' journey over I'oiigli LMDUiid : this we considei' u
satisfuctory result. The road round the; Ca|)e is re-
])orted to have iuijH'oved, the long slo|)es of snow at
the base of the clills being less abi-upt than they were
during the autunni. To-day the journey was extended
to ten miles, the time 0('cu|)ii'd being about thive hours.
Two dogs had fits; the temi)erature dui'ing the lime
they wei'c; exercising was mimis 55°. Each of these
animals is now receiving two i)ounds of [)reserved meat
daily.
'At noon when the sun was only five degrees below
the horizon there were no stars visible and tiie blue
tints in the ice were very decided.
' Idt/i. — After three days' hunting in the lwili<jht
Dr. Moss luis shot a hare; it is in excelleiit condition,
and has been feeding on the leaves of the pi;r|)le saxi-
frage, willow and lichens. It is extraordinary how these
animals find sufficient food with which to su|)])ort hfe
during the dark season, or how the buds of the ])lants
can withstand such a low temperature ; even when
protected by the snow, they must endure and survive
a normal tem])erature slightly below zero. The track
of an ermine has been trticed some distancx', but no hole
or ])lace of abode was discovered. The lemmings arc'
evidently feeding under the snow, ihv the few ti'acks
they leave on the suiface do not ])oint towai'ds the
patches of vegetation left uncovered.
'Yesterday when obtaining a com[)arison of all the
s])irit thermometers, at a mean temj)erature of minus
50°, the standard was only 0°'2 different from the mean
of ten instruments, only two of which varied more than
VOL. I. 11
I*:.!
242
VOYAOK TO THE POLAR SKA.
FKIlKf'AHY
oiii' (Ic^n-cc iiiid !i half. Afterwards tiio tc'in|KM'aliii('
was ()I)S('|'V(m1 at dini'iciil licinlits tVoiii the lloo, with
the followiiiif result*
no ft-el abovf tlip siirfiii't'
On the ice .
niiniiM r>21
4H-0
Tlie first obsei-vation, recorded as taken at a lieight of
sixty feet, was above tlie stratum of mist tliat clung to
the II
oe
' 21.sf. — To-day the dogs reached the snow-hut
built by Rawson last autumn ; all the ])rovisionsleft in
the hut not packed in tin cases had been eaten by a
fox, which aj)j)ears to have taken up his abode there.
The dogs are getting on very well ; there have been
no fits since the second day's exercise, and their
reguliir idlowjince of food keeps them farther uway
from tile dirt-heap than foruierly.
'Yesterday, from the sunnnit of Cape Rawson,
after a difficult climb uj) tiie steej) snow slope, Ave
obtained a fine view of Robeson Channel. The fioes
although old ai'e of large size, and will afford a. fair
travelling I'oad for at least half way across the channel.
' 22)1(1. — Markham and I scrambled out, over the
half-uiile of rough ice which borders the shore, and
arrived at one of the old floes in the offiuir, the ace of
O'
which — whether it be fiftj^ or five hundred years — we
have no means of deteriniuiuff TJie one we
ears-
rea,c
lied.
evidently a fjiir sam])le of the rest, was about one
mile square, se])arated from its neighbouring floes by
broad ridges of ])ressed u\) ice, rising in many places
1870
rOLAU ICK.
24;^
thirty foi't in licit^lit nnd (.'Xlciidiii^' to a liiiiidrcd yards
ill width. Here and thci'c, however, the roiit.di parts
continued I'or a mile or inori' in tlie same direction.
The .siirt'sice of the lh»;' was aliove our line of si^rht
wlien standing on a nari<.w iid<fi' of youii<_»" ice, whicli
itself Avas about half a I'oot above the level of the
"vvater. The liei;^dit of this old lloe above water may
therefore be taken at about eitdit feet ; <.fainiiiL^ its
surface we found it covered with sli|)|)ery ice-knolls of
a dark blue colour from twenty to one liuu(b'ed feet in
diameter, and risin*; from ten to twenty feet above tin*
general level of the drifted snow which covei-ed the
lloe. 'J'hese knolls generally lay in disconnected ranges
and were evidently the remains of heavy lines of hum-
mocks jiressed up years ago, when the iloe was in
course of formation, and since melted down into their
])resent rounded form by repeated summer thaws.
W'.^ congratulated ourselves that if a succession of
such Hoes were met with in the contem])lat(.'d journey
to the northwai'd the travelling would not be veiy bad.
' Between the shore hummocks and the floes out-
side we found u crack in theice, ])arallel with the coast-
line and eight feet broad, recently fro/eii over. When
we returned on board we lejirnt that some of the
crew when w^andering about the ice the ])revious
SiUiday, found this crack recently ft)rmed, and that one
of the men in trying to jump across had fallen into the
unfrozen water.'
On the return of Captain Markham from his
northern journey over the ])ack later in the season, he
reported as follows concerning the age of the Polar
Hoes.
^?'yi<
2U
V(iYA(iK TO TlIK I'OLAU SKA.
Fi:iiitr\i!V
" f
A
' Tt is iiMpossihlc tor lis to cstii'iiitc, or oven to
liMZJinl ill! opinion, rc^^fMrdiiij^f tlic liiickncss of wlmt we
term tlu' piilicocrystic liocs, liiiving no loiiiKliilion to
tbnii iiiiy <'oiijc'('tiiiv upon. On one occasion, at the
edgo of a large Hoc, bounded by young ice, llie |)er-
pendicular height, from [\\v top of the Hoe to the
Niuface of the young ice, was measured and found to
be from live feet six inches to six feet ten inclies, but
we had no o|)portiinity of measuring tlie lieiglit of tlie
heavier and lar<ri'r sized (iocs. On the lieavier iloes
were hiuh hilloc
ks, a|)pai'enlly formec
by
sn()\v-(
Irift.
the accumulation pi'obal)ly of years, resembling dimi-
nutive snow mountains, and varying from twenty to
over fifty feet in lieiiilit.' ....
pqu
'This afternoon the cold weather broke uj) with
[dls from the iS.S.W., lasting six hours; the tem-
perature rising immediately from minus 50° to within
a few degrees of zero. At midnight a noi'thei'ly wind
again lowered the temperature to Uiinus 40°, During
the i)revious sixteen days the mercury has remained
thawed only for forty-eight hours.'
Neitl
tl
ler this wmd nor the rise in teiMj)erature were
experienced at Discovery Bay. After a short calm a
southerly squall raised the tem))erature both at Floe-
berg Jieach and Discovery Bay; but at the latter
place, although the snow was observed to bo drifting
from the southward off the high land, it did not reach
the shi]). At noon the temperature at both stations
was minus 14°.
' 2oth. — A beautiful clear day. Walked to Ca])e
Eawson with Mr. Pulleii ; liawson, Egerton, and Fred-
erick, following us with the dog-sledge. The weather
ip:n
NOUTII COAST OF (ilMlKM-AND.
•J 45
l)('iii«' very clcai" we r
could (listiiiuiiisli
tliat tliri'o or loin-
iiul(.'.s to tlic soutli-
ward !i vi'iy cxtcii-
yive old Hoc occ'U-
|)i('(l at least halt"
tliu breadth of the
chaiiiiel ; it wa.s cvi-
<1( 'v so }^ood a
roadway lor tlie
sk'dovH that it was
at once named tlie
" Crossing Floe."
The north sluuv of
Greenland was seen
extendinii; to the
I'astward for an
unknown chstance
until lost in the
mirage.
' When descend-
ing the hard snow-
slo})e on the hill,
off which the softer
snow had been
carried by the late
gale,Eu\vson sli])ped
and slid down the
steep inchue head
first for at least
a hundred yards.
I
i
■ti i
'!■■■ ^:\V^
111!
•J '...
■i
1
1
iijj.
■■I
J?v
216
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
February
nibj 1;." ■' {I
^^:}U^
- i:
i!ii;ll
ff ;i!|;
ilin-H viiii
Fortunately lie had the abihty and presence of mind to
steer himself and so landed in a soft place. I at <irst
thought it a bit of his usual fun, and a quick method
of getting down a slope of snow, but as the ra])idity
increased, it was evidently an accident andnolaugliing
one eitlier.
' A lemming was caught in its winter (!oat • when
it saw that escape was ho])eless it backed into a hollow
in the snow and attempted to defend itself by striking
vigorously with its foi'e-feet, uttering a sin-ill squeak.
Except by quickly retreating to their buiTow^s these
animals liave lit'le jn'otection from tlieir enemies the
snowy owls and skua gulls. If caught at a distance from
their retreats a dog or fox can readily run tliem down.
' When returning to the shi[) Mr. Pullen and I
followed in the track of tne dogs and sledge which had
preceded us. At one spot the sledge had fallen over
a perpendicidar snow-bank eight feet in height on tt)
hard pieces of ice at the bottom — a very awkward
place for an accident. Our anxiety for the drivers was
much relieved by seeing the sledge moving along some
half a mile ahead of us as if notliing had lia])pened.
It appears th.at the weather being too misty to
permit shadows forming, the edge of the ]nt was not
seen luitil the dogs disai)])eared into it. Egertou and
Frederick rolled off in time, but Rawson found himself
amongst the dogs with the sledge turned over on <^op
of all. Most fortuujitely neither sledge, animals, or
human beings suffered in the least.
' During the calm weather which preceded the
late gale the bare ])atches on the hill-tops had
gradually become whitened with the invisible precipi-
187G
ELEVATION OF POLAR LANDS.
21;
lUlllllii;
tatioii of fine snow whicli is constantly takin*; place.
Xow thonj arc again many ])arts left comjjlctcly bare.
Tiic fresh deposit of snow-drift which has collectwl near
the ship uives quite a clean a])peai'ance to tiie Hoe.
' At a distance of lialf a mile inland, we lately
found a raised sea-bed, 150 feet above the jiresent level,
off which the snow had been swe])t by the wind. It
was strewed over with marine shells, some so well pre-
served that the hinges of the valves were still j<jiiied.
We also found two small pieces of wood about five
ini-hes long, which a])])eared as if they might have
been cut artificiali}', but shortly afterwards two logs of
drift timber were foimd, from which they had evidently
])ecome detached.'
The ra])id elevation of the shores of Grirmell I^md
illustrates in a remarkable degree how ])oweiful is the
agency of the heavy Polar ice in raising banks of mud
and gravel in lines ])arallel with the coast. Wherever
])oi!its of land stretch seaward into water of mcxlerate
de})th, lines of grounded floebergs mai'k veiy distinctly
where they and their predecessors have pushed up
ridi>es on the bottom as they were forced on slujre.
Where two points are near nei<>libours tin- banks
continue to increase with the elevation of the land,
and eventually produce a bar, which extends from
point to point and forms a sheltered bay, into which
the heavy Polar ice can no longer be forced. Year
after year the mountain ton-ents, charged with mud
and debris, continue to fill u]) this ])rotected bay,
which, from the continuous elevation of the land,
becomes at last converted into a lake. In course of
tune, after the lake has become silted up, the ancient
248
VOYAGE TO THE TOLAR SEA.
Fkbruary
liiiM'
m
'.i'U'il''!
bar is cut tliroiioh, and the torrents a^rain scoop out
tlie accumulated material, depositing it afresh in a
similar manner at a lower level.
Thus in Griimell Land we found at various eleva-
tions, to heights of 1,000 feet above the sea-shore,
convincing ])roofs that during the ])eriod which
represents this great elevation of tiie land, the same
fauna flourished as now exists in tlie Polar Sea, and
that the deposits alluded to were created under the
same physical conditions as are now })resent,
^27th. — The crew luTve lately been em])loyed in
trans])orting the coal which was stacked on shore in
the autumn, on to the ice near the ship, ready for it
to be put on board during the sinnmer.
' Although the sun is still absent, so bright is tlie
light at mid-day that on first descending to the lamp-
lit deck it is some time before the retina has accom-
modated itself to the chanoe and enables us to see
oiu' way.
' At the usual Sunday's muster on the ice we all
remarked how quickly the ])ale complexions have
disai)peared ; one or two, however, are still rather
wliite.
' 2Sth. — A beautiful day ; tem})erature minus 48°
with a, low mist, but a clear sky overhead. As the
sun would ap[)ear above the southern horizon by
refraction, a general holiday was given to enable all
hands to enjoy the sight. The mist, however, ])re-
vented anyone being gratified. The crimson and
orange colours in the northern sky, resting above the
blue and i)urple tints near the horizon, were very
fine and almost made up for our loss. As usual with
1870
DOG-SLEDCtIXG.
240
sailors, tlii-ce men walked beyond the prescribed dis-
tance, and caused a tenij)orary anxiety by not retnrn-
ing for several hours after tlie main party.
' Giffiird and Eiicrton, witli Simmons, had Ji lonu"
and cold journey to-day Avith the d()<j;s. They reached
Cape Union, and ascertained that the despatches
which Eawson left there last October have not been
disturbed by any party travellinuf north fr^.m the
" Discovery." TJiis proves that they, like us, were
unable to journey alonir the shores of llobeson Cliannel.
' Ex])erience teaches us in these regions never to
run witli a dt)g-sle(l<fe during severe weather, for
although the weather may be perfectly calm, the fast
journeying through the air at a temperature below
minus 50° has naturally the same effect as if a light
breeze were blowing. To-day Simmons became greatly
heated, while runniuLi- beliind the sledge to iruide it;
afterwards when sitting down to take his turn to
drive his riglit arm became uncovered and exposed to
the cold, and before being aware of it he wa.s severely
frost-bitten, so much so that lie is now imder Doctor
Colan's care.
' 29^/<. — Eawson and Egerton having taken tlie
dogs to tlie hill-to]), from thence saw the up])er limb
of the sun returning to awake nature from its long
re])ose.
'At the ship we experienced a light breeze from
the north-west, but on the hills the wind was from the
south-west sufficiently strong at times to create a light
snow-drift. The temperature, curiously enough, v/as
only minus 51°, whereas that in the neighbourhood of
the ship was minus 60°.'
«:*
if'
• f
250
VOYAGE TO THE TOLAR SEA.
February
This was ex])lained afterwards by our learnino"
that at Discovery Bay, from which direction the wind
was blowing, tlie ' Discovery ' exj)erienced a similar
temperature of minus 51°.
' The vaporisation of our breath in tlie cold air
presents precisely the same appearance as if we were
smoking tobacco ; and when severe work causes
extreme pers})iration, the worker becomes siuTOunded
by a cloud. To-day, when the dogs were a})proa('h-
ing with a light favom-able wind, they and the sledge
were as completely hidden as a ship is after firing
a salute. In fact, with misty weather and a snowy
backgroimd we did not perceive them coming until
they were close alongside.
' The great dilHculty that cold air finds in rising,
and warm air in descending, is well exemplified in the
snow-built observatory on shore, where the tem])erature
without any fire is always above zero. In consequence
of the entrance passage leading up-hill the cold outer
air cannot ascend, and that inside the chamber, warmed
by the candles used when making observations, cannot
force its Avay down-liill.
' In a similar manner we have experienced a con-
siderable advantage in consequence of the ship floating
in water throughout the winter. By carefully covering
the engine-room hatcliway, and preventing the cold air
descending to the shi})'s holds, the temperature has been
very seldom below 2 8° "5, the same as that of the
water beneath the ship.
' In this we are far more fortunate than Lieu-
tenant Weyprecht and his companions on board the
" TegettholT." Completely cradled in ice as that ship
1870
VEGETATION AT THE TOLE.
251
was duriiio- two winters — betwccMi 1872 and 1874 —
the temperature of tlie liolds became so lowered that
most of tlie provisions froze.
' Now that the midday twih<>-ht ena])les us to extend
our walks to tlie u])lands, which have been wholly or
partially demided of snow, we find few traces of
llowerino- plants, tliouoh the lichens attain a better
development there than they do neai'er to the sea.
The valleys and the coast slopes with a northern
tispect shoAV traces of far more vegetation than mi<zht
have been expected.
' This is evidently due to the oreat power of the
midsummer sun, which remains at an altitude of sixteen
degrees above the horizon for several hours while on a
northern bearing. As the altitude and lieat-»ivino-
power would be still further increased nearer to and at
the Pole, and as the amount of light — the other neces-
sary for the production of life — is precisely the same,
we may safely reason that if land exists at the North
Pole it is as richly vegetated as the neighbourhood
of Floeberg Beach,'
lit
K?l?» I
w
' *
VOYAG]'. TO THE POLAR SEA.
Maiuii
CHAPTEE XL
GEOORAPniCAI, DISCOVERIKS — ABSENCE OF LAND TO THE NORTH —
DECIDE ON THREE LINES OP EXPLORATION — HOATS FOR NORTHERN
PARTY — ADOPT THE PLAN OE SIR EDWARD PARRY — SCURVY —
DIETARIES OF SLEDGE CREWS — EGERTON LEAVES FOR DISCOVERY
HAY— Petersen's illness — doq-sledging — spring visitai6's —
WOLVES AND MUSK-OXEN.
In arraiiginfT my ])lans for the slodge travelling during
the spring, I naturally took into consideration the result
of our ])revious geographical discoveries. We had
ascertained that the land to the westward of Cape
Joseph Henry trended in a north-westerly direction for
a distance of not h^ss than eighty miles from our
position ; tliere was no saying whether it might then
stretch towards the north, or turn off to the southward.
The coast of Greenland was in sioht trendinjj to the
north-east for about eigiity miles ; beyond that distance
its direction was doubtful. Immediately to the north-
ward was a very heavy ])ack, decidedly impenetrable
for a ship, and of a description which former Arctic
travellers had considered impassable for sledges.
In my orders it was impressed on me that the
primary object was ' to attain the hufhest northern
latitude, and, if possible, to reach the North Pole.' The
more I considered the character of the ice in our
neighbourhood, the more convinced I became that the
1870
PLANS FOR SPRING EXPLORATION.
253
only way to carry outmy iiistriK'tioiis wasby advaiiciii;^-
along a coast-line ; and that unless we discovered land
trending to tlie north, neitlier tiie shii) nor our sledu'cs
would be able to advance far in tliat direction. Our
great object tlierefore was to discover land leading
towards the north.
I accordingly decided to ex])lore tlie sliores tliat
were in siglit, in order to ascertain if either coast
turned in the desired direction, and at the same time
to send a secondary party over the ice to the northwai'd ;
to vliscover whether or not the pack was in motion in
tlie offing, and if stationary, whethei-, in tlie event of
our not iinding land towards the north, it would be
feasible to journey over it the following year with the
combined strength of the crews of the two ships.
When organizing the l)arty to ])ro('eed directly to
the north across the ])ac-k, little or nothing was known
with certainty regarding the nature or movements of
the ice, but the expei-ience of the ' Polaris ' expedition
led us to expe(;t that if the ])ack wei-e not already in
motion it would certainly break up early in the season.
Accordingly, in order to insiu-e the return of the party
in the event of the ice breaking up in its rear, and en-
dangering the retreat, it had to be suj)plied with boats
suitable for navigation. But such a boat weighs within
a few ])oiuids as much as the total {iniount usuidly
dragged by a sledge crew, and at once completely dis-
arranges the plans usually ado[)ted in Arctic travelling
along a coast-line.
When a boat is added to the necessary equiiMient
of the sledge the ' constant weights ' become raised
to about 200 lbs. for each man, and therefore only
w
'«
"^ t'i'v V
254
VOYAGE TO THE TOLAR SEA.
MAKcn
^m
allow ])rovisions for two or throe days to be added.
To advance fifteen or twenty day.s the maxinunn weioht
of 240 lbs. a man must be transported. It is thus evident
that if the ei'ew of eavli sledge is to be jwovided with
a boat, the usual mode cannot be adojited of ])ushiii_i)'
forward one sled<»e to an extreme distance by j)ro-
visionin^' it throu^di a system of relays and su])portin_n-
parties, which return to the shi]) one at a time.
After calculatin«jj the weights most carefully, I
finally decided to follow the])lan of Sir Edward Parry,
namely, for the travellers to advjince the requisite
weights each day by stages ; first dragging forwjird the
boat, then to return and transpt)rt a second sleuge
laden with provisions. From my former ex])erience
I well knew, as is stated in the fifteenth ])aragra])h of
my orders, that ' hi the absence of coiitiiiuou.s Iniid,
dedije travellimj Jias never yet been found practicable
over any considerable extent of unenclosed frozen sea.'
Nevertheless, I trusted that we might advance such
ft distance from the land as would enable us to ascertain
the nature of the ])ack-ice in tiie offing, and learn
whether it could ever be travelled over for a reason-
able distance, on a future occasion, with or without
boats. There was also the chance of a northern Luid
being sighted.
Knowing well how extremely irksome such a
journey woidd prove to all concerned in it, I deter-
mined to des])atch two sledge crews to nuitually
su})port each other.
As the north-western ex])loration promised to be
the most im])ortant, 1 offered the command of it to
Commander Markham ; but he considering that the
187G
PLANS FOR SPlilNCJ ILXl'LORATION.
255
land -woukl ])rol)iibly not 1)0 fomid to stretcli in tlic
desired direction, elected to take connntind of the ])arty
whose dnty it Avas to ascertain the natnre of tlie [)ack-
ice to the nortliward.
I tlien arranged for LientenantsAIdricli and GifTard,
witli fonrteen men, to ex])lore tlie coast of Grant Land,
wliilst Commander Markliani, Avith Lieutenant Pjirr
and fifteen men, su])])orted by two additional sled^'es
until they left tlie land, Avere to advance directly
toAvards the north over the ice. Captain Stcplienson
and the officers and crew of the ' Discovery ' Avere to
ex])lore the northern coast of Greenland, endeavoin-
to ascertain Avliether Petei'mann Fioi'd Avas a chamiel
leadinji; to an eastern sea, and to examine Lady
Franklin Sound, Avhich Avas re[)oi1ed to be a cliaimel.
The ' Discovery ' bein<>- u])Avards of tAvo Innidred
miles north of the ari-anged rendezvous at Cape
Isabella, I considered that sending" a ])arty tliei'e Avould
be so much streni>th tIn-oAvn aAvay ; for in the event of a
ship from England visiting Cape Isabella duiing the
summer of 1876, and finding tliat Ave had not com-
nmnicated Avith the post at the southern enti-ance of
Smith Soimd, it Avould be at once understood that our
two ships had advanced far to the nortliAvard, and Avere
Avell placed for ex})loration. Sir Allen Young on
visiting Cape Isabella in August at once dreAv this
inference.
In order to communicate my intentions to Ca])tain.
Stephenson, Sub-lieutenant Egerton Avas ])repared to
proceed Avith the dog-sledge to Discovery Bay, as soon
as the sun returned, carrying the necessary instructions.
As Lieutenant RaAvson Avould be employed in tlie
\<!
,lt
vn
25(1
VOYAfJE TO TIIK I'OIwVTl 8EA.
MAitcrt
c'X|)l()i';iti<)ii of tlu! coiist of Noi'tli Gr(!('iil:iii(l, it was
ck'sii'uble tliat he sliould coiifcr with Captain Ste|)lieii-
soii, uiidur whoso dircHttioiis the Gr"eiiljiii(l ])iirty would
bo organized; accordiiij^ly liaw.soii was to a('conij)aiiy
Mr. Eo-ei-tou.
As the Expedition sul)se(]ueiitly ex|)eiieiK;ed a
severe uttiuik of scurvy, which lias been attributed in
some quarters to eri'ors in the sledge dietaries, I may
liere conveniently I'efer to the subject, and oive my
reasons for adoptin_i>" the scale of diet used by the
travellers from the ' Alert ' and ' Discovery.' In doin<>'
this, I fear that I shall leave the actual cause of the
outbreak of scurvy in as undelined a, state as others
who have endeavoured tt) exj)lain it.
On the return of the Exj)edition to England a
committee, consisting of three admirals and two
medical men, was a])pointed to encjuire into the c;auses
of the outbreak of scurvy. On the 7th of May, 1877,
they rci)orted, ' We attribute the earli/ outbi-eak of
scurvy in the spring sledging parties of the Expedition
to the absence of lime-juice from the sledge dietai'ies.'
The italics are my own.
Soon after the ])ublication of this re]X)rt Admirals
Sir George H. liichards and Sir Leopold M'Clintock,
the two siu-viving members of the Arctic Committee of
1875, and whose exj)eriences in Arctic sledge-travelling
are certainly greater than those of any other living men,
thus ex])i'esscd their views in the ])ublic })ress. Sir
George liichards wrote under date of the 20th of
May, 1877:—
' This can be no more than an o])inion, as it is posi-
tively unsusceptible of ])ioof; but it is entirely opposed
r-.f 4\-
1870
cummu'Tki-; on uutjireak of scuuvy.
25";
to iill former cxpericiK'e on simihii- SLTvicc. It ii|)|R'ai'.s
ill the evidciici' hikcii bclort' iIk' C'oimiiiltci' that. Sir
Leopold M'Cliiitock in iiU liis varied Arctic joiii'neys,
extendi I iLi" over some llioiisaiids of miles, never cari'ied
lime-juiee or considi'red it necessary. Cert;iiidy llie
evidence of ])r. liiie in i'eif;ird to his own I'emarkahle
journeys and his loni^ experience as ;in oflicei' of the
Hudson's ]3ay Com|)aiiy in Arctic America does not
justify the conclusions arrived at by the Connnittee.
'For myself I must say that, duiing some seven
months ])assed on the ice at difl'erent times, and with,
])ei'h;i[)S, larger parties than any one person ever had
the charue of, my crews never used lime-juice. The
same may be said of the early and extended sled^in^"
])ailies of all previous expeditions. Lime-juice was
undoubtedly used by some of the jiarties which made
short excursions in nu)derate tem|)ei'atures ; but there
remains the fact that many previous parties exposed to
the same temperatures and pretty much the same
hardsliii)s as those experienced by the lat(! Expedition,
and for considerably longer peiiods, did not use lime-
juice, and were practically exempt from sciu'vy, oi- the
cases which did occur Avere so few in lunnl^er, and of
so mild a character, that opinion actually differs ;it the
present time among medical uien as to whether they
were cases of scurvy or not.
' The fact is that it has always been regarded as
unnecessary and impossible to administer frozen lime-
juice to sledge crews, and in the Arctic regions it is
"I'ozen durinu' the month
,-ayi
Ap
o
ni
part of May ; at any rate the exjiedieiit has never been
tried
VOL. I.
258
VOYAfa': TO THE I'OLAll SKA.
Ma mil
'T Htiitc, iiiorcovi'i', willioiit ft'.'ir of contnidictioii,
tliiit tlicrc is not oiii' cxiu'riciiccd Arctic ofliccr liviii"'-
\vlit) Avoiild not liMVc lollowi'd pi'cciscly tlu; course
Ciij)taiii Xurcs did in rctfiird to liis slcd^c diet.'
ISir Lcc|)ol(l M'C'liiilock wrote: —
'I think it due to Sir Geor<xe Xiires iun\ his oflicei's
thiit former Arctic I'Xperieiice shouhl not he lost si^dit
of. If Sir Georue Nares erred in not iiaviii<; suj)))hed
his sledue parties with lime-juice, tlien we Arctic
travellers have all likewise erred.
'I have myself made sevend sled^fiu*,' journeys,
vai'vin<i' in length from 'JO to 105 days each, without
either lime juice or scurvy in any of my parties; and
tile experience of my brother ollicers in the Franklin
Search agreed with my own. Hrielly, we lived upon
])emmican, and enjoyed sound health. Therefore,
actinj^ as I have always done u])on exjierience when
obtainable in |)reference to any number of suif^^estions,
however valuable they may a])pear, had I been in Sir
Georjjje Nares' place I also would have left the lime-
juice behind.'
As two of the members of the Committee a])pointed
to enquire into the outbreak of scurvy had personal
exi)erience in Arcfic travelling, it is to be regretted
tliat in their report they did not draw conclusions fi-om
the knowledge gained during the numerous sledge
journeys which have been suc(!essfully undertaken in
the Ai'ctic ivgions, on ])ractically similar dietaries and
without any lime-juice whatever ; such as those of
Baron von Wi'angell, Parry, Franklin, Eichardson,
Jiack, Eichards, M'Clintock, Sherard Osborn, M'Clure,
Ct)lliiison, Kellett, Eae, Hamilton, Mecham, Hayes,
and many others.
\f*7i\
SLHIUJK DIKTAKY.
'->-)!>
Oil llic 'MIkt IimikI, |);irt"u'S coimiiiiiKlcd hy Sir
.liiiiics Ito.ss, Alli'ii Voiiiiu, Mr. Keiiiietly, tiiid Moiis.
Bcllol suHiTcd I'roiii scurvy.
Sir.IiiiiU's KosM, stiiiliiiu; IVoiii Tort Lt'oijold in 1S4I)
on tlic lolli t)t' Miiy, ulicii tlic wciillicr Wiis wiirin, was
jiblc to issiu' ii diiilv r:itioii of one ounce of linu'-iuicc
to liis slc(bv crews; l)iit iicvcrtliclcss, ill the cud of
tliii'ty-si'ven djiys, liis nieii returned to tiieir sliips ns
completely prostrated l)y what is said to liave been
debility as tlie sledjiv crews of the 'Alert ' and ' Dis-
covery' were from scurvy.
When I had to arrange' :i <liet scale for a crew of
liealthy men, most of whom had the ])re\ious autumn
jjeiformed successful journeys of twenty days' duration
without any sign of disease, I I)ased my arraiiu'e-
ments on those which had proved eliicient in tiie nume-
rous previous sled^'c Journeys in the Ai'ctic resiions.
A co])y of the official reports of these Journeys iiad
been su])plied for my information by the Admiralty ;
at the same time was forwarded a memorandum of
recommendations and su^i^estions drawn up by the
Medical Director-General, one ])aragi'a|)h of which
recommended the use of lime-juice durinif sledae
journey's; but inasmuch as the few sledo-e ])arties
which had been su|)])lied with lime-juice diu-iiiu- the
months of A])ril and early May — viz. those of Sir
Horatio Austin in 1852 and of Sir Edward Belclier in
1854 — had utterly failed to use it as a ration durin<>-
the cold weather, owiiiu" to its rock-like condition when
frozen ; and moreover, as every one of the many sledjjje
crew^s who had not been so sup])lied had, after pv.r-
foimmg Journeys, some of them 100 days in duration,
82 -
m
Pi'
i .')
260
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
Mauch
i'iiiii' ^1' >
i*
PS *' '
ruturned safely to tlieir sliips, thereby ju'oving that tlie
diet was fairly suitable, I decided to follow tlie former
ciistom, and only to send lime-juice for use dui'ing
weatlier wlieu it could readily be melted. Accord-
iniuly, arranuemeuts Avere made for it to be forwai'ded
to the most distant de])Ots foi' tlie use of the advanced
sledge crews when retiu'nino- in May or June, whicli
was as early a date as any sledije i)arty travelling in
the Arctic reuions had ever consumed sucli a ration,
I take tlie report of the Connnittee to mean tiiat in
their o])inion had lime-juice been sujiplied the disease
woidd nevertheless have broken out at a later ])eriod.
If this be a correct ivading of the woi-ds 'early out-
break,' then all future Arctic ex])lorers are warned
that they must, sooner or later, ex])ect an attack of
scurvy unless a decided chaiiue can be made in the
usual Arctic rations, and some |)lan d(!vised of kceinng
the ship as dry and comfortable as if she were in a
temi)erato climate.
I fully concur that a change of dietary for the crews
of both ship and sledge is advisable. I am further of
0[)inion that the nun^erous successful sledge journeys
])crformed duiing the Franklin Search had induced
a danuerous confidence in arctic men, and that foiiner
ti'avellei'S, without being aware of it, were in realitj'on
the ver<>'e of the same dire disease which attacked our-
selves.
It is possible that the ])ainful experience gained by
us may reiuler Arctic exph)ration by sledges safer than
it has hitlierto been ; but unless for the |)ur])ose ol'
saving life I consider that no one should be called
upon to undergo tlie fearful |)ri\ation of an Arctii'
« w
March
1870
SL];i)(tJ-: DIETARY,
201
Arctic
sledue ioiinii'V (liiriii<>- Mjircli or tlic ciirlv part of
A])ril, who'i a teiii])erature of more tlian sixty <k';.''rees
below freeziiiii-poiiit is certain to he exj)erieiK-e<l,
Al\er a careful coiisidei'atiou of all tlie circiim-
.stanccs of the case, the cliief differeiice that I can find
between the experiences of oui- tiavellers who >'ifl«'re(l,
and those of former ex])editit)iis who did not, is the
lireater or latlier did'ereiit labour uuderuoiie in conse-
qnence of the lieavy nature of the snow and j)a<-k-ice
met with by the ])arties fi'oni tlie 'Alei-t' and 'Dis-
covery,' and also the almost total absence of fresli meat ;
Avhereas most of the former expeditions obtainetl an
occasional meal of fresh uame of one sort or another,
and some were fortunate enouah to shot)t as miu*h as
<
they could ])0ssibly consume.
I now continue the extracts from my journal re-
latin<2' to the proceedings on board tlie 'Alert.'
' l.sf.- — Tlie tem])erature is down to minus 04°, with
a liiiht breeze from the north-west. It is far tixj cold
for human beiui>s and, juduinn' from the movenn-nts of
the do<Ts, for animals also ; although they refuse to
li'o into an enclosure they are ulad eui^Jiuh of :iny
shelter obtainable between them and the wind. The
weather ])revented any work beina' undeitakeii outside
the shij) except whn< was absolutely necessiiy, and
the walking' parties were ctmtented with sjiorter exer-
cise than usual ; eveiy possible kind of lace protector
beinu; ti'ied.
'The ])reserycd meat for the use of the doL's while
travellinu" has been taken out of tlie tins and broken
<
uj) into ])ieces of about two pounds in weiirht ; exj»ose<l
to the cold this has become frozen as hard as marble,
%
lilliiil
Wm I
! !i''"^'
mil ■^,.: |i
mi''
WW
if
f
m
2G2
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
Mauch
and ill tliat state has been stored ready for use in a
canvas bag. As it is impossible to tliaw the food ^vhen
travelhng, the poor creatines \vill have to swallow
these lum])s of food at a temperatiu'e sixty and seventy
degi-ees below freezino-poiut ; it is therefore not sur-
])risinif that fits occur but rather that any dogs are
left alive.
' In consequence of the saving of lime-juice which
will occur diu'ing the absence of the travellers in
April, the ration has now been doubled. The evening
issue is not compidsory, but I am sure that very few
will neglect to take it.
' The mean temperature for February was minus
38°. I am fully certain that at a position a few miles
farther to the westward, out of the range of the warm
southerly winds blowing througii Robeson Channel,
which invariably raise the temj)ei-atm'e considerably,
the mean tem[)eratin\» for tlie month would have been
nuich lower.
' Owing to the gradual accimiulation of newly
formed ice on tlie starboard side of the sliij), caused by
the fVeezin£f of the water w^hich overi'uns the surface
when depressed by the tide, she is now forced over to
port, heeling four and a half degrees; a very decided
incline. It is quite impossible to remedy matters
before the thaw commences. We must be thankfid
that the rise and foil of the tide is not greater ; other-
wise we should be as badly [)laced as the " Polaris "
was undci' similar circumstances at Thank God
Harbour.
' 2/^(1?. — The sledge jn-eparations occupying the
whole of each evening, to-day was die last of the
1870
EXTRE^rK DEGREE OF COLD.
263
Tliursdav eveninn- <>'atlu'riiiiTs for loctia-es and other
entertainments. Tliese liave been kej)t up tlirougliout
the winter with unflagging interest, everyone attending
without exception.
' \th. — Tlie sun was seen clearly above the soutliern
hills at 11.30 a.m. To-day had been fixed for the
departure of tlie dog-sledge for Discovery Bay, but tlie
cold weather prevented the start. The mean tempera-
ture for the last two days has been minus 69°-G ;
yesterday two reliable theruiometers registered below
minus 73°, the mean being minus 73""75, or more than
one hundred and five deurees below the freezing point
of fresh water. At noon on the summit of the look-out
hill 480 feet high, the temperature was miims 62°*5,
six degrees warmer than the tempei'atui-e at the shi]).
A breeze from the south-wx'st was blowing at the
time on the hill, and a light northerly airneai" tlie ship,
' The ap])earance of the southern slo])es of the
Greenland hills which were to-day tinted a wanu
crimson afforded a rich treat to all of us, and the feel-
ing of intense cold was greatly modified by feasting
our eyes on the glorious sluuh.'s of colour.
'Parr and May when observing occultations t)f stars
found it extremely cold work, and the spiiit in the
levelling tubes was so thickened by the cold that it
became useless. In order to comj)are all tlie s])irit
thermometers together, Rawson, Egerton, and I were
obliged" to remain cx])osed on the ice for about an
hoiu'. Unfortunately, while so emj)l()yed a light bi'ceze
sprang up, and as tlie thermometers could not l3e safely
handled exce[)t with hands covered only with the
finest mits, Ave were obliged to relieve each other con-
>i!
i., If: ilk
m
2G4
VOYAGl-: TO THE TOLATl SEA.
MAHCIt
I II '"ill
stautly, running about for at least ten niiiuitcs before
our hands recovered tlieir warmth sufficiently to obtain
another observation. Whisky ])laced on tlie floe for a
few niiiuites froze hard ; so a few of us had the rare
oj)])oi-tunity of eating it in a solid state.
' bt/i. — When falling in for muster on tlie ice,
although the men were permitted to keep moving
until the last moment, several were frost-bitten about
the fa(;e. It is amusing to notice how angry anyone
becomes when informed that liis nose is frost-bitten ;
being uncertain whetlier he is tlie victim of a joke, or
Avhether it is really the case. The frozen breath col-
lects so quickly, and tlie ice is so excellent a conductor
of cold that those who cover their noses and mouths
with a comforter are certain to suffer. Masks for the
face are not to be recommended, it is better to wear
nothinij when walkini*' near the shin. Travellei's who
are obliged to face the cold know tliat they must sufTei-,
and a])rojecting hood or blinker w^orn on the weather-
side of the fiice is ])erhai)s the safest protector. There
is a widespread ])0|)ular notion concerning the treat-
ment of a frost-bite by api)lying snow, but our snow is
fai' too cold for such a purpose. When frost-bitten
the object is to restoi'e the cii'culation gradually.
With a, superficial frost-bite the best remedy is the
gentle a})plicatioii of the hand to the affected part ; the
slightest friction would certainly remove the skin.
' Qth. — The temperature has risen to minus 58° ;
it is the same on the top of the hill as on the floe. A
thermometer exposed to the sun which was not quite
two decrees above the horizon registered minus 52°.
Frost-bites are very frequent, but now no one moves
MAncn
treat-
1870
TREATMENT OF A FROST-IUTl-].
265
anywhere without a coinjjanion at liis side ready to
warn liiin of daiiLrer. Foi-tuiiately tliese exti'ciuely low
tein])enitiii'es never occur with a lii^h Avind, or no
lunnan beinj:' could possibly endure the weather.
'A parhelion with ])rismatic colours on each si(l(> of
the sun was observed to-day. Very liglit suow-IIakes,
or more proj;erly s])eakiiiL>- snow-motes, were falling, s<^>
fine that lliey were oidy visible as they ])assed aci'oss
the lighted arc, ;;fter wliich they were invisible until they
crossed the corres])onding ai"c on the opposite side of
the sun, showing that eaeh ])article of snow between
the eye of the observer and the extreme distjuice assists
in forming the parhelion. The i"ay lising perpendieu-
larly from the sun was not prismatic.
' A puppy born tln-ee days ago has mystei-iously
disa])peare(l ; it has doubtless been eaten, as usual, but
in this case the mother hei'self is suspected of being the
culprit.
' 9^//,. — Yesterday on the tem])erature I'ising to
minus 45° the dog-sledge was made ready to start, but
to-day it has fallen again to minus 58°, so I have
countermanded the order for its de|)arture. When on
the to]) of the look-out hill this morning the air was so
])erfectly calm, that, notwithstanding the excessive cold,
aftei' becoming thoroughbr warm by the exertit)ii of
climbing, I was able to keep my hands bare for ten
minutes whilst sketching ; but that was only during a
very quiet interval, for shortly afterwards, although
the weather was nominally calm, it would have been
impossible to have uncovered the hands for two
minutes. At noon a thermometer backed with a piece
of black cloth, when exposed to the sun, which was
:3' .
.rl-
2r,6
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
^LvncH
W'W
I ,1
tliroe (Ic^^recs above tlie horizon, re<»istere(l twenty-two
tle}>rees liinlier tluui when in tlie sluule. The bhick-bulb
thermometers .sii})})hed for measnring solar raihatiop
are all mercury thermometers and are consequently
useless at present. No one expected that when the
heat from tiie sun was sufficient to raise the tempera-
ture so considerably the mercury would be frozen and
tlie instrument perfectly useless.
• 'U\G men are employed daily in cutting a ditch in
the ice on the starboard side of the ship, in the hope of
reducing the ])ressure, and kee})ing her from heeling
o\( . anv farther to port. The ice has again sunk sud-
denly away from the ship at the stern, or rather the
shi[) has suddenly jumped up one foot, tearing her
stern clear of the ice,
' 12th. — A misty morning with a falhng barometer,
and a tein[)erature risen to minus oO°, gave notice that
the extremely cold Aveather was at an end. Accord-
ingly Mr. Egerton and Lieutenant Eawson, accompanied
by Petersen and nine dogs, started for the " Discovery,"
the sledge being v/eighted to 51 lbs, per dog,
' When walking with Aldrich we crossed the tracks
made by the dogs when exercising yesterday, and
noticed the numerous frozen pellets of blood lying on
the floe which always form between the toes of these
animals when working during severely cold weather.
The heat of the foot causes the snow to ball, this soon
changes into ice, and, collecting between the toes, cuts
into the flesh. On board the " Eesolute " in 1853, we
endeavoured to fit our dogs with blanket pads on
their feet, but these were found to increase the mis-
chief by first becoming damp and then freezing, when
n ;.. il^
It, 'i, ill
March
1870
DOGS.
207
tlie liardeiiod blanket cut into the siiieAvs at the back
of tlie lejjf.
' A ])iece of lieavy ice lyiii^u" aground, not far from
tlie shi})'8 bows, was turned conij)letely over last
autumn, leaving the part which had rested on the
ground exposed to view ; it shows distinct groovings
or furrows on its _urfa(;e and some imbedded ice-
scratched ])ebbles, ])i'oving tluit floebergs or stranded
ice grinding along the bottom of the sea with the tidal
motion or pressure from the pack produce scratcliings
on stone or I'ock similar to those produced ))y glaciers.
The long thermometer which was let into a Hoeberg
with the object of measuring the conduction of ice
has unfortunately become broken in consequence of the
np])er portion of the mercury freezing in a defective
])art of the tube, while that below remained in a liquid
state and was lujable to expand.
' loth. — We commenced to-day taking down the
upper-deck covering, in order to let in as much light
as jiossible. The cold will prevent the hatchways or
skylights being uncovered of snow for some time. Dr.
Moss being desirous of seeing the true tints of colour
when painting, has uncovered the skylight in his cabin,
but the frozen condensation accmnulates so rapidly
on the inside of the glass that the ice has to be cleared
off constantly, if any benefit is to be derived.
' lith. — Blowing in squalls from the south-west
with a force of 8, which will be sure to keep the tra-
vellers in theh' tent ; but as the temperature has risen
to minus 18° their hardships will not be greater than
those of the many Arctic voyagers who have preceded
them. The grounded ice around us denotes an un-
it*
St-
!'»Ji
hn
0-^
i*
mm
'. tf.k I
0-i..
ill
2(;8
VOVAiJE TO THE ror.AH SEA.
^FAiicrt
iisuiilly low 'tide, evidently enused by the pressiiiv
exerted by tlie gale forcing tlu' Avater, although covered
with iee, towards the north-east. The ice on the star-
board quarter is unable to rise again, consequently with
the return of the flood the Avater has ovei'iiui it and
risen two feet abt)ve the level of the floe.
' To-day I })iibllshed the programme of the spring
sledging parties. It is eminently satisfactory to find
how every officer and man, after a long and severe
experience during the autumn of what Arctic sledging
really is, has been anxiously pushing his claims for
em[>loymcnt Avith the advanced ])arties ; those bound
north over the ice, a journey thoroughly well knoAvn
lo entail the most trying and tedious work, being
esteemed the most favoured.
' 15M. — This evening I was astonished at the return
of Mr. Egcrton's party, and much distressed to learn
that it was occasioned b}' the severe illness of Petersen.
He was taken ill on the second march Avith cramp, and
afterwards, being unable to retain any food whatever,
nothing could kee]) him Avarm, and he became badly
frost-bitten. By depriving themselves of their OAvn
Avarm clothing and at great personal risk the tAVO
officers, his oidy companions, succeeded in restoring
circulation. The following day, Petersen being no
better, they Avisely determined to return Avith him to
the ship. But the gale of the 14t]i rendering it impos-
sible to traA-el and the tent being very cold — tempera-
ture minus 24° — they burroAved out a hole in a snoAV-
bank, and Avith the aid of a spirit hnnp raised the
tem])erature inside it to 7°. With a noble disregard of
themselves they succeeded in retaining some slight heat
in the man's body by alternately lying one at a time
1870
ILLNESS OF rET]:i!si;x.
269
aloiin-side of liiiii while the other w;is reco\'eriii<^ liis
waniitli by exercise. On the inoriiiii_n' ol' tlie lath tlie
patient bein<j; shulitly better, and the weatlier j)erniit-
ting, they started to return to tlie ship with the sledge
lightened to the utmost.
'During the journey of sixteen miles over a veiy
rough ground, altliough fi'equently veiy seriously
frost-bitten themselves, they succeeded in keeping lite
in the invalid unlil they arrived on boai'd. lie was
badly frost-bitten in the face and feet '
Notwithstanding the ])rofessional ability and inces-
sant care of Dr. Colan, Petei'sen never recovered from
the severe shock which he had received, and eventu-
ally expired fi'om exliaustion three months after-
wards.
Dining severe weather Arctic travelling of any
sort, at a distance from all other hinnan hel]), is only
iust bearable for stronu' men when all goes well. The
slightest mishap is sure to entail serious consequences,
and a severe sickness, Avliich ])rovidentiany has seldom
occmTed amongst the hundreds of travelling ])arties, is
almost certain to terminate fatally.
Mr. Egerton, whose own conduct was beyond all
})raise, thus s])eaks in his olPicial i'e])ort of Lieut.
EaAvson's behaviour on this occasion : —
' It is with great difRdence that I presume to say
anything regarding the very valuable assistance that I
received fi'om Lieutenant Eawson, but I feel I should
fail in my duty if I omitted to bring to j'our notice the
great aid I derived from his advice and help ; without
his unremitting exertions and cheerful spiiit my own
eflTorts would have been unavailing to return with my
patient alive to the ship.'
I
...;'■•
J^'-Ii
'^fi-i
270
VOYAGK TO THE POLATl SEA.
Mauch
'
The pojuilar sii|))X)sitioii that slednfe tnivclliiij^ with
(loLTs in the Arctic re^'ioiis is ji ctHut'oi'tiiblt', cxpechtioiis,
and excitin;^' inetlioil of locomotion is very far fi'oni tiie
truth. Witli a li^ht sledj^e, |)erfectly smooth ice, and
a good team of dogs, ra|)id journeys may be made
over great distances where su|)|)lies of food for only a
few days have to be carried on the sled<>e. Boo-
sledging as jmxctised by naval ex|)editions in districts
where food cannot be ol)tained on the road, is ne(;es-
sf rily of a different nature. The object frequently being
to jirolong the journey to the utmost extent, oi-, in
other words, to enable the sledgers to be {d>sent from
their ship the greatest nimiber of days, the sledge at
starting is loaded to the full amount of ])rovisions and
«>ear that the dojis can draw with the aid of the men.
The driver walks or runs at the side of the sled<>e,
guiding the animals with his whip, while another of
the party runs ahead, (choosing the best path through
the piled-up hummocks or i-ougli ice, the rest of the
crew ]mshing the sledge from behind, but very fj'e-
queiitly they have to use their drag-belts. Owing
to the i-e]jeated delays among rough ice, where the
dogs stubbornly refuse to do any work whatever,
and the men facing the sledge have to drag it three or
four feet at a time by standing pulls, the rate of ad-
vance is seldom over two or three miles an hour. In
fact, the crew of a dog-sledge have even more la-
borious work to undergo than those who drag a man-
sledge.
The dogs should never be jjermitted to advance
faster than the travellers can walk themselves with
comfort and without losing breath.
187(.
AHCTIC I)OG-.SLi:i)(Ji:.
271
Duriii;^ E^jfiTtoiTs ri'tiini jounu'V witli tlic liM-htly-
liuloii jsledj^o, tli(!re wus <.M-eiit (liinciilty in proveiitin;^
tlio do^'s rininin;^ siway when tlioy knew tliiit tliey
were lionu'waid-bDiii.l. In j)assiii;^r the dee|) hiiow
slope nt Ca|)e llawfson, the invalid bein<^- foi-tnnately ofF
the sledoe at tlie time, they could not be i-eslrained,
und tlie sledii'e rolled over the side of the bank, n dej)th
of thirty feet. After the sledge wasrij2;hted, and while
Egerton was em])loyed chjaring the entunjfled harness,
the dogs suddenly broke away, dragging him more
than a hundred yai'ds, and bruising him severely,
before they were stoi)|)ed by his body beeoming
jammed in between two j)ieees of ice.
He reports : —
' During the Journey all the dogs except " Bruin "
worked very well, and no fits oc(;urred I ])icketed
them each ntj^ht, and they lemained quiet, only one
dog, "Flo," breaking adrift. I found no difficulty
in giving tliem their food — two ])ountls of jweserved
meat each, daily — which had been frozen and broken
into pieces before leaving the ship. Though it was
as hard as the ice itself, they a])peared to enjoy it
thoroughly.'
' l(jth — To-day the skylights above the lower-deck
and my cabin were freed from snow, r; r1 vlaylight
introduced, an inestimable blessing ; but with it the
cold also finds its way in. The difference in tempera-
ture between the inside and outside of the glass was
sufficient to crack one })ane before the quickly accunui-
lating frozen vai)our on the inside formed in sufficient
thickness to protect the glass. Previous to this taking
place, owing to the quick conduction of cold through
H\i
V\
f%-
272
VOVAOIi: TO TIFK VOLXU SIIA.
Mvncrr"
lliL' iiiipi'ol.i'cltMl ii'liiss, siiow-llakcs loriii 'd ;iii<l ;iii actiuil
fiill of snow tools |)lii(;(' in my ('!il)iii.
' 17/A. — A l)ri,L;"lit sun, but n cold uippiu.;- I,
with s({u:ills IVoMi till' sDutJi-wcst, iitm!)s|)lu'i\' vciy
c.lt'iir. I W!ill<('il to Cii|)(! Uawsoii witli P.irr aud
Gi-'oi-n-o Bryant, th;' captain of tlu; "•Discovery's"
slo(l<>'<! crew, to show him the "CVossino- Floi'," strelchinn'
for a distance of six or sevcai mik's across Kobeson
Ciiannel.
'Ill the ravine nortli of the cape, on the; same plot
of sparsely vi'L»'elaXcd ui'ound where foot-prints of
|)tarmiL»aM wei-e last seen in the autumn, we found
their fresh truees. On the lOtii tliree small 1 'rds
were re|)ortt!d to liave been seen by one of the ';
it is now |)robable that tliey were ptarmigan, our mst
visitors from the sonth. The "Polaris" did not ob-
serve any before; the 25th of this month.
'At noon, when the temperature in the shade was
uiinus 20°, the black bulb thermouieter in the sun
rej^istered plus 40''. Some snow on a cask, well satu-
rated with salt, uielted when exposed to the sun, the
staves beino- quite wet. At the sauie time the snow
on the bhu^kshi|)'s side was uierelyeva])orating without
wettinu' the woodwork.
' VVe have had _u'reat trouble in finding the snow-
liouse containing the ])0wdei' which was landed for
greater security in the autumn. Duiiiig the winter the
house has beeome covered by snowdrifts, and in the
darkness the poh; uiarking its position has been lost.
' 20^//. — A uiaLiiiificent day ; calm, with a bi'iuht
sun and u light violet-tinted mist hanging above the
Greenland hills, a certain indication of fine weatliej'. ,
f
iiMM.
187(1
MXKIM'ISI", OF Sl.i;i)(li: CIMIWS.
•21 :\
'Mr. l\uri'l()ii,\vitli LiciitciiMiit Tiiiwson.ncconipMiiicd
1)V John Siininoiis, mimI ]Micli;icl liciiiiii one ol" the
ci'c'W of tlic " Discovery, " ^':ii"li'(| with ;i slcdLic (h'iiwii
by seven (h)!i's lor Discovei-y IJity ; the doiis (h'iiiiLiiiiL;"
seventy-eiuiit ])()uii(ls ench.
' T]\v slcduc crews Imve coiiuneiiced exercisinij!' ioi"
their lonu' joufni'vs. In ordcf to utilise theii" liihoufs
I intend to lorni :i larije depot of pi'ovisions near the
" CVossin<f Floe," rendv I'oi' Ueauniont's use.
' Dufin^' a Avalk of about twelve miles the only
tracks of animals met with were those of a few and an
ei'mine. The fox, like our Eskii lo dons, had melted
the snow in its lair, leaviiin' an icy surface.
' The weather was so calm, and the sun so])Owerful
that, when standinj^' still and facinu it, altlu)u<j;-h the
tem|)erature was actually unims 30°, it felt a|)])recial)ly
warm; and yet ice formed on our eyedashes thick
enough to impede our siuht considerably. After a
six hours' exposure the cold had ])enetrated .so far
into our dresses that a Avoollen waistcoat, worn inside
a. thick box cloth coat and a duck outer eoverinu',
had ice on it tliick enouuh to brush off. This uiay
enable ])eople to reahse the condition of a traveller's
clothes after eleven hours' hard work and how ([uiekly
his garments, which he can nev(!r dry, or indeed ever
clianne night or day, become saturated Avith moisture.
'It is extraordinary how little snow there is left on
the uplands, certainly uot more than an average thick-
ness of two feet. Had oiu' winter not been specially
cahn even this measurement must have been lessened.
'The fallen snow drifting before the winds in the
loriu of Hue dust is for ever depositing itself in thin
l:i
^11
M
'^mi
i
1
%i 1'
j^
>
M,'.*:
u
i
dki
VOL. I.
T
274
VOYAGE TO Tin^. POLAR SEA.
Marcu
i
liiiiii
..•li
t "i;..ii
strata in the holloAvs or Avhere fin obstruction is en-
countered, forming snow-banks ; the Avinthvard side of
these drifts is constantly being removed by tlie Avind,
while on the lee side the snow is depositing. Tlie bank,
therefore, is always changing its position, moving on-
wards with the wind, its decaying edge forming a steej)
incline, the other a long slope. With the increasing
heat of the sun tlie snow is eva])orating very fast, par-
ticularly that on the southern sides of exposed bouldci's.
Hiiili clouds comin"; from the soutlnvard tliis afternoon
are a new feature, and indicate that the atmos])]iere
is again becoming moist. We may accordingly soon
expect a decided snow-fall, a phenomenon we have
very seldom ex})erienced dining the winter.
' 24:th. — To-day JMarkliam's crews, with tlieii* boats
lashed on sledges, went out on to the pack for exercise.
After much labour with the i)ickaxes tliey were enabled
to advance one mile and a. half in the same mmiber
of hours, but that vas with the boats alone. If tliey
journey at the rate of three miles a day they will do
well ; their worst enemy will be the misty weather.
We lio})e that as they advance north the floes will
becoine larger, anu hedged Avith narroAver lines of
lunnnux^ks than those in our neighbourhood.
' The drifted snoAV Avhich lies upon the land just
above the sea-level is hard, and Avill form a fair road
for travelling on ; but Ave can hope for no level ice-
lioes hke those met Avith by former ex]:)editions.
' Yesterday, Avhen Avalking Avitli Feilden and May,
Ave endeavoured to reach Mount Pullen, only seven
miles distant from tlie ship in a direct line. After
three hours' hard Avalking, and Avheii only one miie
Makcu
]f<70
MOUNT I'ULLEX.
l'T:)
1 IS en-
[ side of
le Aviiicl,
lie bank,
niiii" on-
f ix steep
icreasinu'
ast, ]:>ar-
)Oul(lci's.
fternoon
iios])]iere
^ly soon
we have
eir boats
exercise.
! enabled
number
If tliey
' -will do
^veather.
loes will
lines of
and just
air road
3vel ice-
is.
nd May,
ly seven
After
t)ne miie
from the mount, tlie ravine u|) whicli we had journeyed,
over hard snow, opened out into a shallow basin lialf a
mile across; there the snow had collected under tlie
shelter of tlie hill, and was so deep and soft that we
were oblii>ed to j^ive u]) the attempt to cross it, and to
eontent ourselves with ascentling a nearer and smaller
hill wliicli is called the Dean. This hill, wiiieh rises
to a height of 1,400 feet above the sea-level, is sepa-
rated from Mount Pullen by a deep ravine whicji lias
Jill the a[)[)earance of a gigantic railway cutting. The
impression left on our minds was that a glacier must
have been the auent that had carved out the L'a|». The
summit of the Dean hill is strewed with granitic
boulders and erratics of various kinds, the moiuilain
itself being composed of dark indui'ated slates, thrown
up at an almost vertical angle, the strike being east and
west. The view from its sunnnit was very line; the
])yramid-sha])ed hills of the United States liange to the
north-west having every slope shar[)ly defined against
a back-groinid of clear sky.
' 2')th. — Temperature mimis 37°, and calm weather.
The sun is only ten degrees high at noon, and yet tiie
glare was intense when walking towards it over tlie
snow. It afforded muc-h relief to our eyes to occasion-
ally fm.-e about and gaze at one's own shadow, the
only dark object to be seen. The accunuilation of ice
about our eye-lashes and on the fur caps acts as a
number of i)risms, refracting the light into the eyes.
'There are now many ptarmigan tracks in those
parts of the ravines where the scanty vegetation lia.s
been here and there exposed by the winds ; we meet
with tracks of hares occasionally, but it is evident that
i2
-■»■•>,
Ill, i{
ill illli:!!
i-il
276
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
Makcii
few are left in our iieighboui'liood ; tliree only have
been killed since llie return of lioht. Tlie heat of the
sun is very powerful ; the exposed smface of eaeli
dark boidder is to-day free from snow, whicli has
eva]iorated or thawed away without any melting being-
apparent.
' The Avhite ])ainted boats being objectionable for
snow-blind travellers to gaze on, Dr. Moss has been
painting those belonging to Markham's party with
diversified colours, but the ])aint does not appear in-
clined to dry. The backs of tlie travellers' white-
duck jumpers have also been marked with appro]:)riate
designs, in order tluit when ])ulling at the sledge-ro])es
each man may liave some colour to rest his eyes on.
As every individual lias been left free to choose liis
own crest, the variety and originality displayed is
somewhat quaint.
' In consequence of the ice liaving become thick
cnouiih to reach down to the mouth of the discharoe-
pipe, we are at last unable to use the ship's pum])s,
The fire-engine suction-pij^e being lower will remain
free so long as the temperature inside the ship is
above 28°*5.
' While walking to-day with Mr. Pullen near Cajie
Utiwson, we observed that the sea-face of the cape, up
to a height of 200 feet above the i)resent sea-level, luul
been ground smooth by the pressure of the floebergs
or of the ice-foot. Tlie rock remaining so distinctly
scored for such a lengthened period as must have
elapsed while the lan<l was I'ising to the height men-
tioned, is remarkable.
' We measured a stranded Hoelierg, forced up on
m
'V: a
Makcu
187C
DIMENSIONS OF A FLOEBERG.
277
ily linve
it of the
of eacli
licli lias
n<>' beiim"
lable for
las been
rty witli
>pear iii-
i' Avliite-
irojiriatc
|>e-ro|)es
eyes on.
ioo.se liis
•layed is
ne tliick
iscliaro-e-
; pumps,
remain
ship is
?ar Cape
('a])e, u})
ivel, liad
loeberys
istinctly
st liave
it men-
l up on
its side. It was 120 feet long by 105 feet broad, and
80 feet in de])tli, the highest part being ()o ivvt above
the water-line. It was consequently about 25,000
tons in weiuht, a cubic foot of ice weiuliinu' 55"5 lbs.
Although this floel)ei"g was tlie highest out of the
water, it was by no means the lai'gest in our neigli-
bourhood. When ascending its side, so long as the
slo])e was at an angle of 30° from the horizon, and
covered with hard snow, wc could climb up with the
liel}) of an alpenstock, but it was slip])ery work
desceiidinu". When the auLde increased to 35°, we
were obliged to kick ste])s with our boots ; at 40°, steps
had to be cut with an axe ; and at 50°, although we
could have ascended by means of stejjs cut in the ice, I
doubt if we could have descended witliout the hclj) of
a rope.
' For several days ])ast there has been an ammated
scene on the cleared ])art of the lower-deck. One or
other of the officers, and the leader amongst the crew
of his sledge — styled " captain of the sledge " — have
been alternately in possession of the weights and scales,
preparing the provisions for the s[>ring journeys. As
Arctic sledge travellers are entirely dependent for sub-
sisten(;e on what they drug, the preparation of the ])ro-
visions is a serious undertaking. Once started from
tiie ship on a journey lasting from eighty to u])wards
of a hundred days, there is no means of rectifying a
mistake or neglect, for nothing can be obtained from
the ice but water, and to get that, fuel has to be
carried for melting it. Carrving too much entails
more weight being added to the already heavily-laden
sledge ; I need not mention the consequences of taking
^#!:J
'Ml ,11
I I
I'i
III
III
:Sl
''•"it
ll!ili!:i''l
'i,;iif' " It
1 ':i
278
VOYAGE TO TTTE rOLAPt .'^EA.
MARcn
too little. In a matter of such vital import anec the
commander of each party must rely only on himself.
Every article has to be Aveighed Avith the greatest nicety,
and the liglitest material ])rocin-able used for Avrap))ing
up the ])arcels ; for this jnu'pose a raid has been made
on all the ])rivate linen. After thi'ee days' work in
weighing out groceries, which were ticnl u]) in some
yellow calico, Dr. Moss discovered that the dye used
to colour it contained arsenic, and this Avrappiiig had
to be discarded.
' It is oidy a month to-day- since the sun reappeared,
and yet it is now so light at midnight that stars are
no longer visible.
' 2dth. — Lieutenant Parr re])orts having seen n
snowy owl ; it was very wild, and though ])ursued
for a long distance woidd not allow him to get within
gunshot range.
' A south-west gale last night, force 8, with a
high tem])erature, Avas folloAved with cirro-stratus
clouds, tlie first decided ones seen this season. To-day
the Fox insLrument Avas taken on shore in ord(T to
ol)tain base observations ; but the ]iarts froze so solidly
together that the instrument coidd not be used.
' No traces of Eskimo have yet been discovered
in oiu^ neighbourhood, and as it Avould be quite im]ws-
sible for them to sustain life here during Avuiter Ave can
scarcely ex])ect to find any. Probably at Polaris Bay,
and other favoured places in Smith Sound pools of
Avater remain open, and seals may be ])rocured ; but
here, since November, and for at least another month
— making half a year altogether — thev cei'tainlv could
not be obtained.'
1870
PREPARATION OF SLEDGES.
279
At Discovery Bay a seal was seen in tlio firc-liole
several times, during January and February, proving
that a few remained in the neitjhbourhood tlirou<:jhout
the winter.
' The quicksilver on the reflecting glasses of the
sextants is much affected by the extreme cold Even
at a temperature of minus 30° the film on the back of
one glass has split and requires to be re-silvered.
< '-^
oOth. — A very strong mirage over the Greenland
coast enabled me to obtain the bearing of a mountain
aj^parently to the northward of the land seen before,
but whether it is so or not will depend on its distance.
In these high latitudes distant land may actually be to
the southward of our position, although bearing to the
nortliAvard of east. Land bearing due east must neces-
sarily be farther from the Pole than our position.
' 31,st. — To-day, with a temperature of minus 30°
in the shade, but the black bulb thermometer I'cgister-
iug plus 40°, we observed that the sun, for tlie first
time this year, had a visible effect on the surface of the
snow, rendering it glazed and slippery. The mocassins,
soled with the thin upper-leather cut from our long
fisherman's boots are serviceable, so long as we walk
only on snow, but the sharp slaty shingle on the bare
patches of land cuts tliem sadly.
' The sledges are now drawn up alongside of the
ship, all ready packed for a start on j\Ioiiday, the 3rd
of April, should the weather be favourable.
' April 1st. — On being called this morning I was
informed that a wolf had been seen near the ship. Dr.
Moss at once started in pursuit, but returning without
having seen the animal, he was naturally greeted with
'J'i
It #>
^' 'i.i
III
8^ V
'!i;in:ll|l< 'llhilli
■■■' ' '!:,ii
m 'M
W* jir ,■'
yil < 1''
||i*'''
l^b
^^rivill
iji
S^9|| '1' '1'; i
W'
K
Rii!
280
voya(;e to TIM-: roLAii sea.
April
doubts as to wlicthcr advautjige liad not been taken of
the day to lioax us. However, wlien walkinuj to Black
Cape we observed the unniistakiible footi)rints of a
woH", Avliic'h considerably exceeded in si/.e those of the
iai-gest of our Eskimo dogs. Later in the day more
than one of these animals were seen in the vicinity of
the shi|), and in the afternoon Frederick came across
the recent traces of three musk-oxen. A party from
lUn/.KN IIKAKI).
the ship at onc^e started in pursuit of them, but were
unsuccessful : evidently the wolves are following the
musk-oxen.
' The [)enunican biscuits, ])rei)ared at the recom-
mendation of Mr. Thomas Grant are much liked ;
the sledge ci-ews are supplied with a quantity of them
instead of the ordinary shij)'s biscuit.
' During the last few days officers and men have
clipped all the hair off their faces i-(\uly for travellhig.
1870
FIJOZEX liEARD,
281
and it is now diflicult to recognise individnals by a
easnal glance.'
If tlie beard and nioustaclies are Avorn the nioistnn^
from the breath settles on them and quickly forms into
a fringe of icicles, Avhich after two hours' exposni'e
liave grown large enough to eflectually ])revent any-
thing being drank out of a tumbler until it has been
thawed ofl'. The comforter worn nnmd the neck also
freezes to the beard, juid after returning on board
has to be thawed off' before a lii-e. When such a
circumstance ha])i)ens in a tent, with the temperatui'e
many degrees below zero, nothing can be done except
to cut the board away close to the skin. As the eye-
lashes if removed may not grow again, Arctic travellers
have to i)ut up with the annoyance of ice forming on
them ; if not removed this gradually unites at the
(;orners of the eye and eventually seals uj) the eyelids.
The usual remedy is to thaw it away every now and
then by the application of the ungloved hand. In
very severe weather when the hands of the traxellers
cannot be thus ex])osed, instances have
men being tem})orarily blinded hi this
occurred of
manner, and
mable to see their way
k %
282
VOYAf;i<: TO THE POLAlf PEA.
ArniL
%^'
CIIArTER XII.
DEPARTURE OF THE SLEDGE PAUTIES — NEWS FROM THE 'PISCOVERY'
— ACCOUNT OF EUEUTON's JOUKXEY^ — TKIl' TO (IREENLAND — DR.
MOSS AND MR. WfiriE RETURN — ARRlVAf, OF SI.EDGES FROM THE
' DISCOVERY ' — ARCHER VISITS POLARIS HAY — CAPTAIN STEI'HEN-
SON'S ARRIVAL — GIFFARD'S RETURN — HIS PARTY ATTACKED liY
SCURVY — ECiERTON AND FEILDKN RETURN — EXCURSION TO CAPE
JOSEPH HENRY — MOUNT JULIA — RETURN TO THE 'ALERT.'
tf' b'f
On tliG morning of tlie 3rcl, the day fixed for the de-
parture of the sledge travellers, general disappointment
\vas fcilt at the non-arrival of Rawson and Egerton with
news from the ' Discovery.' We had hoped tliat the
dog-sledge would have returned by that date, and that
our ])arties might have left the shi}) with the gratifying
knowledge that our friends on board the ' Discovery '
had passed a comfortable winter.
The weather, however, being settled and favourable,
with the temperature ranging between minus twenty-
five and minus thirty degrees below zero, the tempera-
ture usually experienced by Arctic travellers early in
A])ril, I gave the order for departure. The party con-
sisted of fifty-three ofHceis and men, all apparently in
robust health ; those remaining on board the 'Alert'
numbered six ofhcers and six men. All hands assem-
bled for prayers on the ice alongside of the laden
sledges, Avhicli were drawn up in line, their silk banners
■■■«:• :;
Apkii,
isrn
Dl-JWirrURl] OF SLEDfJE TRAVELLERS.
2S.'5
DISCOVF.RY '
,AND — DH.
FROM T}IK
STKI'HEN-
^ACKKl) BY
N TO CAl'M
the de-
ointinenl
•ton with
tliat the
and that
gratifying
scovery '
k^oiirable,
twenty-
tempera-
early in
irty con-
rently in
' Alei-t '
Is assem-
le laden
: banners
liL^ditly Ihittering in tlic breeze. Every man of onr
company was present, the ship being tenanted only by
poor Petersen, who was bearing his sullerings and
trials most ])atiently. Mr. Pnlleu ended the usual daily
])rayers witii the doxology, in wlii(;li everyone joined.
It was a most im[)ressive scene ; each heart being
ins])ired with enthusiasm, and with a feehng of eon-
hdence that the hibours, privations, and hardsliips that
tlie travellers were about to undeigo would be man-
fully battled with.
They started at 11 a.m., each man in the nortliern
division dragging 230 lbs., and those of the western
dixisiou 242 lbs. The programme was as follows :
Lieutenant Akhich, assisted by a sledge crew under
tlie conunand of Lieutenant Giffluxl, was to exj)lore the
shores of Grant Land towards the north and west, alonuj
tlie coast-lijie he had discovered in the previous autunui.
Commander Markham, seconded by Lieutenant Parr,
with two boats, and equipped for an absence of se\enty
days, was to force his way to the northward o\er the
ice, starting off from the land near Cape Joseph Henry :
three sledge crews imder the commands of Dr. Moss
and Mr. George White, accompanying them as far as
their provisions Avould allow.
' ^th. — A calm day with a temperature at minus
80°. During last night it fell to minus 45°, which is far
too low a temperature for tent-life, but such risks have
to be run when travelling in these regions. At 8 r.M.
Egerton and Ilawson, with their two men and seven
dogs, returned from Discovery Bay, after an extremely
rough and severe joiu'uey with a temperature ranging
between minus 44° and minus 15°. They are all in
'iii
I
iiV
ill
I'l lll'lil
ilrfii'liln
I«..„
W !
284
VOYAGE TO THE POL All Sl-LV.
MAiicri
excellent health and Hi)irits, uiul beyond sore faces and
i'ro.st-bh.len fingers not nuicli the worse for their expo-
sure. The news received from Ca[)tain Stephenson is
most cheerhig ; willi the excei)tion of one man who has
suffered from scurvy all our friends are well and have
passed a ha])i)y and comfortable winter. Ovei* thirty
musk-oxen had been shot duiing last autumn, and
frequent i-ations of fresh meat have been issued to the
crew throughout the winter. There was natm-ally
much excitement at Discovery Bay on the receipt of
our news, and great rejoicing on the i)arts of both
officers and men on learning that they were to join in
the ex})loration of the northern coasts. Prejjarations
for sledging were hastened, and Captain Stephenson
immediately des])atched a ])arty across Hall Basin to
visit the depot of the " Polaris " at Thank God Harbour,
to ascertain whether the ])rovisions left there by the
Americans would be fit for use by our travelling
j)arties.
' The sledge crews of the " Discovery "' have been
told off as follows: Lieutenants Beaumont and Pawson
and Dr. Coppinger, with three sledges and twenty-one
men, are to explore the north shores of Greenland.
Lieutenant Archer and Mr. Conybeare, with two
sledges and eighteen men, to ex])lore Lady Franklin
Sound. On Conybeare's return to the " Discovery,"
after completing Lieutenant Archer's sledge Avith
])rovisions, he and his men are to transport a boat
across Hall Basin, to enable Beaumont to return later
in the season to Discovery Bay, slioidd the ice have
broken up. Captain Stephenson, after seeing the Lady
Franklin Sound })arty well on their way, intends to
Mauc'U
been
1870
•Mil. KOKirrONS JOUltNKV.
280
visit Floebcr^' l^cacli to coiitbr with iiic, luul to see his
Greeiihind division of sledges fairly started,'
The tbllo\vin<i" extracts from Mr. E^erion's ollicial
report of his jonrney describe the nature of the travel-
lin<^ met with in liobeson Ciuninel : —
' iMarrh 20^//.— Left tlie sliii)at 0.45 a.m. ; by 10.40
we had jiot over the diflicuhies at Cape llawson, and
by 11.15 those at tlie Black Ca])e, Avithout unj)acking
the sledge.
' Intendiniy to make our first day u short one, en-
camped at 4 P.M., liaving reached the beuinning of tlie
steep cliffs where the bad travelUng commences, for up
to this ])oint, with the exception of i-oinidiiig Cape
llawson and the Black Ca])e, the travelling was very
good.
' By 6 o'clock we were all in our bags, with the
excei)tion of the cook, but as we brought sj)irits of
Avine we are able to cook inside tlie tent ; this raises
the temperature slightly and is much more comfortable
for the cook, the only olyection to it, a very slight one,
being that it makes the air in the tent rather thick ;
betAveen this and four smokers the {itmosj)herc becomes
much like a London fog ; of course Ave tied up the
ventihiting holes, as we had no intention of letting any
Avarmth inside escape into the cold air Avithout.
'Temperature in the tent nnnus 7°, in the air minus
42°.
' 21.s'^. — Under Aveigh by 9 a.m. What Ave consi-
dered difficulties before Avhen returning to the slii[) Avitli
Petersen, Avere now comparatively easy, having tAvo
good working hands with us, and by 10 o'clock Ave had
arrived at the snow-hut, or rather hole, Avherc Ave Avero
'■'■ lis
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i
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illllil
28(1
VOYA(}K TO TIIK I'ULAU SllA.
Maik II
(Icliiiiicd ill! lioLir cloiiriiiLitlio snow oflfllu! sjiil ovci- tlic
liolt! ; ;iiul n'[)ii('kiiig till' slcdj^c. Tlu; Iriivi'lliDg iiow
been 1 1 u' worst ' ; Ave wci'c keL'[)iii;^f to tlic laud, iiiid the
wlioluof the drit'l between the 8loj)e of the eliU'and tlie
hnnnnoeks was at a considerable tnigle, sometimes very
sleep, n|) and down hill always ; the latter we did not
object to, though the sledge cajjsi/ed freciuently, but
the former gave us much troul)le, and unless there had
been four of us our progress would have been verv
slow, for the dogs are of little or no use in this kind of
travelling; one man walks ahead to lead them, while
the other three, having cut a footing with a jjickaxe, sit
down and with " One, two, three, haul! '' drag together,
until the sledge is up, Avhen the dogs, finding the strain
eased, start off at a full swing down the hill the othei-
side ; the sledge slides down a short way sideways and
then cai)sizes, sometimes tiu'uing over three or four
times ; this style of thing went on incessantly until we
became rather more knowing, and found it better for
one to Avalk down the hill very slowly in front of the
dogs with tlu! whip in his hand ; by so doing we somi;-
times avoided the usual capsize, being able to ease the
sledgi; down gradually.
'After half a mile of such work we cane te Ihe
conclusion that, although the ]jack ' ,ii us was
nothing but Avhat is commonly c: . 'rubble,'
could not Ije much Avorse than wha. '^e "\\, re then
having, and determined to try it. To get t le sledge
down from our position, whicli was about twenty feet
above the ])ack, we untoggled the dogs, secured
the drag-ropes and tent guys to the back of the sledge,
and then, all having obtained as firm a footing as
y^
IH7({
i)on-sLi:D({iNG.
])Ossil)l(', Avc lowi'R'd tlic .sl('(l;^f(' over; uiilortuimlcly
our l)M('kii!jf ropc'js were not long ciioiiji'Ii, l)ul tluTi'
Av;is ii')tliiii<^' Coi- il l>iit to let <i(), triistiiii!' to I'rovidciici'
tor the rest : the shMl^e beiii*' imcominoiilv stroiiLi'
S1.1I)I:K I.oWKKKI) OVKIi IHM.Mlll K>.
stood the blow it I'eceived at the bottom s[)lendidly.
After gettino- the sledge over a .short distance of the
boiilder ice we came to a lane of perfectly smooth ice
rmming along just underneath the chfly wall of ice
formed by the grounded hummocks and floebergs, the
1
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- 11
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US'-
l>8cS
VOYAfiE TO THE TOLA If SEA.
Mahch
oiittT sides of wWirh were cut as straiijlit, and ])olis]i('d
as smootli as a |)iL'c(j of inarblo, Avidi j)arall('l lines
scoivd out hy tlio pack irriudinii; aii'ainst then when in
motion.
' The (ravelHnu- over the sniootli ice was excellent,
but Ave seldom came to more than a hundred ytu'ds or
.so of it Avithout hummocks intervenimi", ^vhichuiMierally
had to be cleared away with ])ickaxes. As avg i>ot
farther on, Ave found Avater on the lOp of this lane of
ice, Avhich appeared to be continuous; and the i)ack
being too lunnmocky to attem])t, Ave Avere compelled
to take to the land again just opposite the third ravine
from the cairn on Caj)e Union. Haifa mile farther on
the slo])es became too much for us, so Ave owered the
sledge on to the lloe once more, preferrhi^" the " one,
two, three, haul ! " and getting .something, to the same
Avith no result.
' When Ave came to any good travelling. Lieutenant
IvaAvsoii and I Avalked on ahead, the dogs kecjang clo.se
to our heels, Avhilc the men took it in turns to sit on
the sledge and to steer. At G.15 Ave reaclu'd the
depot at Lincoln ]5ay, and encamped beneath it, men
and dogs pretty tired.
'Temperature of the air, minus 37°; tent.
minus 3°.
' 22)1(1. — Across Lincoln liay the travelling was very
fair, the line (^f .sastrug? running exactly in our cour.se.
Here Ave had a slight misfortune; tlie toe of t\w sledge
runner caught under a ridge and sprung. As Ave
ap])roached Cape Fredeiick VIL. gentling under the
land, the Iravellimi' became more hnnmiockv, and the
fsnow Avas just liard enouuh )iof, to be;ir.
-Mahcii
teiil,
1870
1K)G-SLED(}IXG IN MAIICH.
2S0
' Oil the point it was far too hunimocky to hold
out any liojies of getting- round on the ice, so we took
to the Lmd, hut found it as bad as the worst ])ai-t
yesterday, the dogs l)eing seldom able to tlo their share
HKr.T'INU IlOli-.SLKUUK ilOWN A 111 MMULK.
of the work. Onee, when the sledge capsized, the
u|)rights forming the back caught against a hunnnock
and both were carried away, causing a short delay.
' Temperature of the {lir minus 24°.
VOL. I. u
t^
r
111,
1^1
1
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.11!!
*' M
d^kk'
.1'
til H
290
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
March
' 23?'^. — We all suffered considerably fi'om cramps
in the leu's last niuht, more so than usual.
' By ten o'clock Ave were under weijih. For the
first mile and a half "\ve kept to the land, tnivelling
on the snow-slopes inside the lunnmocks ; but this
becoming steeper, Ave tried the tloes again. The
traA'clling Avas A'ery rough, and Ave had continually to
assist the dogs and sledge OA'er the hummocks, but
occasionally Ave got a smooth ])iece Avitliout any Avater.
The point at the southern extremity of Wrangel Bay
gav'e us great trouble to roinid ; Ave tried the land, but
found it ])erfe(,'tly im])assable, even on foot ; the cliffs
were \'ery steep, coming doAvn to the Avater le\-el at an
angle of, I should say, 35° ; the hununocks Avere
forced Avell up on the land, shoAving considerable
pressure has taken place here. We loAvered the sledge
on to the floe, a height of tAventy-five feet, after
clearing a Avay Avith jiickaxes. There being too much
Avater on the crack, Avhich still contiiuied outside the
lunnmocks, Ave struck out more from the land, and
came to one or tAvo very good floes, and, by mounting
hununocks continually, Avere able to pick a very fair
road.
'At G.45 encam})ed on tlie floe. Each night Ave
])icketed the dogs, and found it acted A-ery Avell, none
of them breaking adrift except " Flo," Avho managed
to get out of her liarness, and any other lasliings Ave
])ut round her, eveiy night, but she always lay doAvii
quietly and gave us no troul)le. Tliough the tempera-
ture Avas not very Ioav, we all felt very cold, and could
not get Avarm, do what Ave Avould ; the ti})s of my
fingers, Avhich Avere frostbitten dui-ing my last trip.
m
March
1870
EGEUTON AND UAW.SOX'S JOURNEY.
291
cramps
For the
avelliiig
but this
. Tlie
iiially to
L'ks, but
y Avater.
igel Bay
aud, but
the chffs
^•cl at au
ks were
siderable
le sledge
■et, after
oo much
tside the
Hid, and
nouutiug
cry fair
iglit we
11, none
managed
lings we
ly down
em])era-
id could
s of my
hist triji
c
when clearing liarncss, liave become blistered and are
rather uncomfortable.
' 2\th. — Under weigli by 9.15 a.m. Found a Hoe
whicli would take us into the land. Got to Ca])e
Beechey at n .10, liaving come tlu'ough about half a
mile of very lumimocky stuff just off tlie ])oint, A
gk)rious day, and tlie ])rosj)ect of good travelUng before
us. All very thirsty, so halted for a quarter of an hour
to melt some snow.
' All along Shift Rudder Bay we. had excellent
travelling on the snow-foot, then came another bay,
deejier than the last and about three miles Avidc;. As
there a|)])eared to be a good even iioe in it we struck
across, but found the snow just hard enough not to
bear; it a})])ears to be getting softer as we get more to
the southward. At G.15 we i)it(.'hed at the northei'u
side of St. Patrick's Harbour.
' Tem])ei"ature of the air minus 30°.
'25^//. — At 9.15 A.M. started. Crossed St.
Patrick's Harbour on a large blue-to|)|)ed floe, extend-
ing nearly the .hole way across, tlie snow u|)on it
soft. Saw a Dutch ensign Hying on a small i.^land.,
which we recognised as the place where the " Alert "
touched the ground last year. Took to the land here,
and found a well-beaten track, so we stei)pcd out at
a hri.sk ])ace, the dogs getting very excited. Aller
I'onnding mnnerous small ])oinls, which shut out the
ship from view, we at length sighted the " Discovery,"
and uave three cheers as loud as ever we could. We
were all in verv hiuh si)irits p.t the thoughts of seeinu;
our friends on board, and tiie prospect of a comfortable
night instead (.)!" the usual cold and cramps. We were
v3
i i I
I mil
MIL
llill
292
VOYAGE TO THE POLAK SEA.
March
about half a mile from the ship when we cheered, and
we could see one or two figures alongside the ship sto])
and look in our direction ; we gave another cheer, and
presently we saw fill hands running out to meet us, and
shortly afterwards there was shaking of hands and
answering questions by the hundreds. When we coidd
get a word in we were very glad to hear that they
were all well, and had spent a very pleasant winter.
At five o'clock we were on board.
' 30^/i. — At noon left the " Discovery," accompanied
by Lieutenant Eawson. The snow was considerably
harder than on our journey down, which is due to a
westerly gale which has been blowing for the last two
days. Crossed the floe in St. Patrick's Harbour, and
encamped at the north side of it, as there was a sharj)
cutting wind, with a good deal of drift, and we were
being frost-bitten frequently.
'Temperature of the air minus 37°.
' Slst. — A splendid morning, without wind. In-
stead of crossing the bay to the south of Shift Eudder
Bay, we kept to the land and had very good travelling
as far as Ca])e Beechey. A mile farther on we made
straight out for the fioes, throuah half a mile of hinn-
mocks, when we came to a small floe, but saw a large
one farther on, so [)ushed straight out from the land,
and reached a good large floe, snow tolerably hard,
and the line of sastruo'i running in the direction we
were travelling. Temperature of the air minus 44°.
' Aju'il 1st — A clear morning, but blowing a little
from the north-east. When o-ottins>' under weii>h it siid-
denly came on to blow much harder. The wind right
March
•etl, and
bip stop
eer, and
, us, and
ids and
VQ coidd
lat they
winter.
mpanicd
jiderably
liie to a
last tAVo
loiir, and
a sliar})
we were
md. In-
Eudder
ravelling-
h,ve made
of hum-
\v a large
the land,
ly hard,
3ction we
44°.
J
.IS
ig a little
gh it siid-
ind right
187G
RETURN JOURNEY TO 'ALERT.'
293
in our teeth, and a great deal of drift ; could not see
more than a few yards before us, so decided to wait
until the wind went down a little. There being no
signs of the wind abating, resecured the tent and pre-
pared for a day of misery, for the best part of the day
is when we are on the march ; to be cramjred up in
one's bag, or get miserably cold if you get out of it, is
not a pleasant prospect to look forward to. However,
we determined to make the best of it, and having one
book — " The Ingoldsby Legends " — with us, we read,
smoked, sang, and slept all day ; and, excepting the
pains in one's shoulders and legs from cramp, it was
not so bad as we had expected.
' The highest temperature we could raise in the
tent was 10° above zero ; that was while we had the
lamps lighted ; the tem]:)erature outside was only
minus 19°.
' 2nd. — The wind has gone, and it is a line day.
One of the dogs was very unwell to-day ; he refused to
eat anything, and was not able to pidl. Slijiped him
from the drag-ropes, but as he would not keep up with
us, were obliged to lead him. By keeping well out
from the land we got on very well for the first two
hours, but after that we came to a regular sto[). No
more floes in sight, so there was nothing for it but to
make for the land. Between us and the shore there
was nothhig but hummocks. After an hour or so at
it we picked up one or two " wrinkles ; " instead of
cutting a broad path for the sledge we simply made a
way for one runner, and then cante^. the sledge up,
one hand preventing it from capsizing ; by one of us
walking ahead to lead the dogs and pick the way, two
i -.'i
'"^'■pr J*
f'' ,1
•294
VOYAGE TO THE rOEAR SEA.
Apkil
\
walkini:", one on citluT side in IVoiit of tlic sledu'e to
ti'uide it, and u'ive it u lieave over to riulit or left as
required, and to clear the lines, ■which frequently catch
in pieces of ice, and the fourth man steering at the
back of the sledge, Ave aot on at a very fair ])ace, and
reached the land at tlie north ])oint of Wrangel Bay.
We then travelled on the crack underneath the ice-
wall until we came to an obstruction, when seeing a very
hn]
DOG-SLEDCiK DHlVINli (JVKU HUMMOCKS.
nice-looking floe not more than a couple of hundred
yards off, we unfortunately were temjjted to try it,
finding very good hard snow ; but it led us gradually
away from the land, and by the time w^e had got to
the end of it we found we -were a mile from the shore
hunnnocks, and with a rouah road betAveen. Having
])i('ked out the best route, set to work Avith pick-
axes to make a way for the sledge, but it was not
Aprii,
eda'G to
' left as
ly eatcli
J at tlu'
Eicc, and
jel Bay.
the ico-
igavery
mk
-'rf-'-ZZ^
hundred
• try it,
radiially
got to
le sliore
Having
li ]ii('k-
wtxs not
1876
EGERTON S RETUKN JOUllNEY.
205
until 5.30 that we got to the land again. Travelled on
the sloj)e between the land and gronnded bergs to
about a mile from Cape Frederick VII., where we
camped.
' Temperatiu'e of the air minus 40°.
' ord. — A fine day, but very misty. Sinunons'
ankles a little swollen, and when walking he feels his
" tendon Achilles " a good deal. We knew what to
ex]ie(^t in the way of travelling, so were not disaji-
pointed at having an hour's work to get round Cajie
Frederick VII. The travelling across the bay was
much the same as we had before. After reaching the
land at the northern side of Lincoln Bay, we had a
very good road as far as the ravine, where we took to
the ice, and kept on the crack as much as possible, bnt
occasionally we Avere obliged to leave it, as it was too
narrow to pass. These places were generally caused
by pieces of very heavy floes having groinided outside
the reoidar line of hummocks, and, liavino- relieved tlie
latter of the pressure, became ])iled up with the debris
of the ])ack as it crushed up against it. When abreast
of Arthur's Seat, we found great difficulty in getting
the sledge over the hmnmocks on to tlie land, tlie
lowest and best place we could find for the pur])ose
being a straight wall of i(^e ten feet high, which was so
steep that we had to cut a footing in it to climb up at
all. Then we (;ut away at the edge, and phiced
boulders iniderneath, slipped the dogs, and hanled the
sledge over. We found the interior of the snoAv-hut
just as we had left it, hardly any suoav having foimd
its way in. Placed all our gear inside, and then pitclied
the tent over the hole. There was ample room inside
i
1%^
li
i'S
i, 'I
J;
■ i^l
'■'I
n.
.1
1 f
'I
'II
'i
i I ;
f'
m
r !
ti'ki.i 14,.;
296
VOYAGE TO THE TOLAR SEA.
April
for four of us, and for tlie cooking nj)])aratus, and
tliougli tlie teni])eniture of tlie air outride "vvas minus
42°, we fjot it up to plus 15° inside while cookiiiL?.
We Avere very much wanner and more comfortable
in this snow-])it than we sliould have been in the
tent.
' Ath. — A beautiful day ; travellinji' bad for tlie first
two liours, tlie sledji'e cajisized a great many thnes
down the slopes, being rather top-heavy. Had a very
heavy drag ii]) the slope at the IJlack Cape ; and the
dogs, evidently knowing they were not very far from
lK)me, Avere so eager to get on, that we could not
])revent them from tearing down the other side of the
slope at full s])eed, the sledge overtaking them before
they reached the bottom ; but they contrived to keej)
clear of it in the most remarkable way. Just before
reaching Cape Eawson we met Lieutenant May and
Mr. Pullen, who very kindly assisted us round, and we
arrived on board at 8 p.m., very disappointed at finding
the main sledging parties had started, but very thank-
ful for retiu'iiing to the slii]) all well.'
On the 6tli I walked with Feilden to Black Cape
to choose the best spot for cutting a rodd through the
barrier of shore hummocks, in order that a path might
be i^repared for the Greenland division. We found
the ice heaped up to a height of from fifteen to twenty
feet above the level of the floe, forming a barrier a
quarter of a mile in width, without one level spot large
enough for a sledge to rest on in an even position.
Simmons brought the dogs along with us as far as the
barrier ; he was now an experienced dog-driver, and
beino; a stronger man than an Eskimo was more useful
I!
iy:i;Six
Al'UIL
Cape
187(5
SUN AT MIDNIGHT.
207
when amongst heavy ice, but wliere manual force is
not the cliief requisite, tlie patience and judgment of
the Eskimo, ^vith their dexterity in handling the long-
Lished whip, ])lacea them far beyoiul the European in
the art of dog- driving.
I again quote from my journal.
' Qth. — Passing the Cape Eawson snow-slope we
came upon the marks of Egcrton's sledge juid saw
traces of the last of its mimerous cn])sizes. At this
spot the dogs, knowing that they were near home, could
not be restrained and ran away with the nearly cmjity
sledge although the four men got on it to increase its
weight. After crossing the brow, sledge, dogs, and tra-
vellers rolled down the steep descent, a dei)th of at
least twenty feet : wonderfid to relate, not the shghtest
damage was incurred by the sledge, men, or animals.
Certah)ly dog-sledge travelling is not for those who
wear fur coats and nuifflers.
' 11th. — At midnight the upper limb of the sun was
above the north horizon, giving a refraction of more
than thirty minutes. Thus we are experiencing the
anomaly of a sun remaining continually above the
horizon day and night yet with a temperature ranging
from 20° to minus 46°. We must hope for the sake of
the travellers that this severe weather will not continue.
I am also anxious about the silvered glasses in their
sextants.'
Although the mercury back-ground split across
during the cold weather the glasses remained fairly
serviceable.
' 8#A. — George Bryant with the sledge " Blood-
hound " returned to-day from the main party of tra-
*."'-iit
!W.?>|
: ., f ;
TTl
I
298
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
ApRrr.
w%
vollers, liaving accom])anicLl tliom to Cape Ricliardsoii,
where lliey liad arrived on tlie Gtli.
'Ca[)taiii Markham reports that, a.s usual on first
starting, a few of the men were sufl'eriiig from tlic
severe and unaccustomed work, and tlie want of slee|)
occasioned by the extremely cold weather ; and, also as
usual, that a great deal of double mamung liad been
necessary with the heavy sledges. One of Bryant's
sledge crew returned slightly frost-bitten.
' The ship is dryer but colder between decks since
the departure of the travellers.
' 10th. — The temperatui'c rose to minus 11° in the
middle of the day.
* Lieutenant liawson and Mr. Egerton started tliis
evening, with two light sledges, four men, and seven
dogs, to search for an available road across Eobeson
Channel, in readiness for the heavier ex])lo]ing sledges
nnder Lieutenant Beanmont, expected shortly from tlie
" Discovery." This party is to travel by night in order
to escape the glare of the nild-day sun which is now
considerable and lifible to cause snow-blindness ; and
also for the great advantage of sleeping during the
warmest part of the twenty-four hours. They started
after an afternoon's sleep and a good supper, which
to them was in reality a breakfost. Altliougli
many of those remdning on board were driiildng a
glass of spirits and water before going to bed, the
voyagers, both officers and men, preferred tea or
coffee, knowing from experience that spirits are bad to
travel on.
' Parties starting as these did, with dearly bouglit
experience, carry neither more nor less weight than is
1870
SNOW-IU-INDNKSS.
200
aotiially norcssary. Tlie inuii fully know the vnluo of
falsing care of themselves, and of the sledge on Avhich
their lives depend. The most minute attention is j^iivt'U,
tlierefore, to every article of dress, equipment, and
])rovisions. The horn spoons occasion many jokes ;
they melt in tJie hot mess and become nearly ilat,
having to be bent into 8hai)e again befoi'c getting cold,
so that literally each man has to fit his s|)oon to his
mouth, and when it is s|)read out nejirly flat his mouth
must be stretched to fit hissj)oon. Metal s])oons arc
now carried, each man keeping his own as warm as he
can in his bau".
' The sun rising fifteen de«>rees above the horizon
the glare during the day is becoming very decided, and
owing to the extreme cold it is dillicailt to ])r()tect our
eyes. When wearing neutral-tinted s])ectacles the
evaporation from the eye condenses so quickly on the
glasses that they have to be taken off and wMped every
few minutes. A gauze veil, from which the conden-
sation cannot be removed, is even more useless.
'Previous to the sun attaining an altitude of about
foiu'teen degrees little aimoy.ance is experienced from
its glare and cases of snow-blindness are rare. This is
in consequence of the sun's rays being onlj^'efi-acted by
the snow at and beyond a radius of about twenty-two
degrees from it. At that distance during clear weather,
the most brilliant prismatic colours are displayed by
each minute snow-prism, and in combination form a
sparkling arc on the snow-covered groimd, the bright
light from which is too powerful for the un})rotected
eye. The " diamond dust," as we term it, becomes
more open as the length of the radius is increased.
Ai
''III*
I
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f
d
I
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1-
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1
i
TTT
300
VOYAGE TO THE VOLAR SEA.
Al'ItIL
Consequently when the sun is between 1' airteen and
twenty-tiiree de^jrees in tillitnde, tlie refraction of its
rays is set forth with tlie <ireatest effect, and snow-
blindness lias to be guarded jiffiiinst. In the brij^ht
are, while each tiny ])risni displays its coni])lete set of
colours, the red tint is the most prominent nearest to
the sun, the pur])lc lyin<if on the outside indistinctly
defined.
*»$L71
■,',"-Si
UIA.MONU DUST.
' The iridescent hues illuminatino- the high cirro-
cumulus clouds or mackerel sky, which occasionally
favour us, present even a more wondrous eflfect of
colouring. Each minute crystal componeut of the
clouds, within a radius of about twenty-two degrees
aroiuid the sun, dis])lays all the tints of the spectrum ;
the vast quantity of colouring, blending softly and har-
moniously together, is so intermixed that it is difficult
to determine which hue predominates at any one point
1870
TEMl'EHATl'UE AIJOVE ZEIIO.
301
or wliicli Hliiiics mosf j^^loriously in tlio I'jiiry scoiie.
At'ter Ji ciiR't'iil inspection I tliink tliut ])ur|)lu is tlie
most i^'oniinent rolonr near the sun, rod is dccidt'dly
the ])i'in('ii){d colour iVin<^'inL>' tiie outer border of eucli
cloudlet.
' 11th. — A calm day with the temj)erature at noon
at last above zero. Clothes hung u]) in the sun dry
quickly. This is the perfection of weither for the
travellers, and very different to what they nuist have
experienced during the fu'st week. We were able to
work outside on the ice without adding to the clothes
usually worn on board the ship, merely putting on a
cap without ear-laps. The snow on the hmd, ])articu-
larly on the southern slopes, is greatly hardened and
glazed by the sun. The estimated fall during the last
six weeks is only one inch, which is certainly not equal
to the quantity that has evajwrated.
' Petersen is ])rogressing favourably ; we lo(^k
anxiously at our best vegetated spots for game, ho])ing
to obtain a ptarmigan for him as they pass us journey-
ing towards the N.W., but we can find nothing.
' A line circular prismatic halo Avas seen roiuid the
sun with a distinct prismatic parhelion at the usual
distance on each side and above it, with a second circle
curving upwards through the upper mock sun. The
wardroom skylights have been uncovered and the
suidight ])erniitted to take the ])lace of the spluttering
lamps. How changed everything a])pears, but how
dirty !
' I'lth. — Doctor Moss and Mr. White with their
sledge crews returned to-day, having accompanied
Connnander Markham to the depot at Ca])e Joseph
^'i'!
n
111 B
i
m
i\\3
^:lil(
802
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR StiA.
AnuL
P' I .
IToiiry and lielj)e(l liiiii for a sliort distance beyond.
The appearance of tlie ice witliin .some six miles of the
ca])e was anytliing bnt clieerinu' to tlie ncn'tliern ])arty,
but they Jioped tliat as thaj got fartlier from tlie hind
the lloes wouhl be hxryer and less broken uu and the
hedues of hummocks narrower. The ice near the land
alTorded su(.'li a bad travelling road that Aldrich had
determined to cross the land to the southward of the
ca])e. With the exception of one marine (who, it aj)-
])ears, was invalided from the Gold Coast), all the men
were well and in the highest s])ii'its. The cold weather
liad tried them much, and there had been several cases
of frost-biie, wliich but for the presence of Doctor
Moss miaht have become serious. Both Markham
and Parr had suffered from snow-blindness, but had
recovered by changing the hours of travelling from
day to night. Only one hare had been shot, but the
track of a wolf Avas noticed at Cape Joseph Henry.
The mid-day tea was very highly s[)oken of; botli
officers and men were unanimous in favour of the
change, and willingly ]mt u\) with the misery of stand
ing still with cold feet during the long halt needed for
the pur])ose of boiling the water ; and all agreed that
they worked better after the tea and lunch than
during the forenoon.
'As usual, the ai)petites of most of the travellers
l)ad been bad for the lirst two or three days, but all
were recovered before Doctor Moss left them.
' IG^A. — Lieuteriunt Beaumont and Doctor Co])-
])inger, with two sledges and fourteen men, arri\ed from
the "Discovery" in excellent health and spirits after a
ten days' journey. A light breeze which Ave experi-
isra
NEWS FROM DTSCOVEIIY J5AY.
>i\0
eiiced yostei'day from tliu nortlnvard, force 2, proved to
be <i gale in tlie funiiel-sluiped liohesoii Cliaimel. ohliL'-
mg the travellers to remain in their tents, one of the most
trying har(lshi])s of an Arctic journey. Tlie j)arty,
althcmgh drauuinu: only 150 lbs. a man, had e.xjjeri-
enced iireat dilliculties "while travellin<j amonff-^t the
heavy hummocks. A temperature of minus 45° and
unaccustomed Avork had at lirst tried them severelv,
but all are now in splendid condition, and after a shoit
rest they Avill have the advantage, which no former
Arctic sledge party has ever enjoyed, of starting on
a lengthened journey after ten days' real sledging
exercise.
' Captain Stejmenson reports that Archer and Cop-
pinger, with two seamen, Hans, and a sledge tlrawn by
twelve dogs ])nlling fifty-four lbs. eich, started on
the 2Sth of March from Discovery Bay to cross Hall
Basin direct to Polaris Bay. A few hours after startin<;
the sledo-e was badly damaged aniong.st some ice hum-
mocks ; after repairing it, they came to a sinootlier
road which enabled tliem to cross tlie strait to Cape
Lu])ton Avithout more than ordinary trouble. They
arrived at Hall's Eest early on the 31st, and immethately
held a siu'vey of the provisions, which were found to
be in a serviceable condition, notwithstanding that
they had. been exposed to the Aveather by the roof of
the obserA'atory in Avhich they Avere stored having
partially fallen in.
'Lieutenant Archer
3porl
iptt
grave is in a good state of preservation. At tl
liead Avas a board on Avhich was the followint>- inscrip
10
lion : —
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304
VOYAGE TO THE TOLAR SEA.
Apkil
IN MEMORY
CHARLIES FRANCIS HALL,
KAl'K C0jMJ1A]SJ)EU XJUS. STEAMKH 'POLARIS,' NOKTU POLK EX1'EJ)1T1(»N.
DIED NOVEMllEU BXU, 1871,
AGED 50 TEAKS.
' I iim tlic resurrection and the life ; he tliat helieveth in me, ihou^'h
he were dead, yet shall he live.'
'A sintiU flat piece of iipriuht stone was Jit tlie
foot, and the willow mentioned by Captain Tyson as
lia\ing been ])lanted there was alive.
' On tlie 2nd Archer started from Polaris Bay on his
return journey and arrived on board the ••' Discovery"
on the folhjwing day. Hans, who had s])ent the
winter on board the " Polaris " and was tlien always
able to hunt for seals in the oj)en water-])ools, was
much astonished to fmd firm ice for the whole distance
across the strait with no water anyAv]iere.
' ISth. — Shice the 14th there has been an occa-
sional snoAV-fall, estimated at two inches, but it has
collected deeper in protected ])laces. Covering the
hard snov^-drift, it liides the inequalities and renders
the footing even to the most experienced very un-
certain. Tlie temperature of the earth Avhich fell to
miiuis 12° during the winter has now risen gradually
to minus 10°"5.
' At noon, wiien the atmosphere was muisually
dear. Lieutenant Beaumont and I thouuht that we
could distinu'uish cliffs forminu' the ""reenland coast
about Cape Stanton, where previously I supposed that
lias
the
iders
mi-
ll to
Liully
187<5
PACK-ICK OFF CXVK IMNCVOOUT.
305
the travellers would Ihul ;i low shore and fair tnrvelliiiu; ;
but as the laud is upwards of thirty miles (Hslaut, we
hope that we are deceived. In cousequeiice of the di-ift
of the pack towards the east before the pri'vailiii;^;
wiuds which appear to blow coutiuuously from the
westward, tlie coast betwoeu Ca])e Brevooi-t and Caj)e
Stautou, lying at rioht auules to the course of the ice,
is siu'e to be an exti'euiely ^v■ild one with regard to
ice-]:)ressure. Should there be clifTs and the sledges
forced to take to the pack, the travelling will neces-
sarily be extremely heavy.
'Lieutenant Eawsou and Mr. Egertoii returned
from Greenland this eveuing, havihg succeeded in
crossing the strait without more than the usual didi-
culties amongst the heavy ice huuimocks, which they
have now become so accustomed to. They landed on tlu;
coast near the Eepulse Harbour of the chart, and re])ort
the land there to be of the same formation :!S Gi'aiit
Land and that the floebei'gs near the shore are, if
anything, larger, and denote more ])ressure from tlu;
pack than those on this shore. The ladder sledge is
stated to be well fitted for the woi'k it was intended
for, namely, travelling tner the siuface of a glacier.
Much to my disappointment no trace of any game was
seen, one fox-track only being noticed.
' Lieutenant Leaumont has been busy all day
weighing out provisions for his jouraey, and also
some for a more lengthened trij> in tlie spring of LS77.
When I can spare men for the duty these will be
taken across the channel and formed into a depot
Three of his ci-cw are too tall for their blanket bags,
which therefore have to be lengthened.
VOL. I. X
^iA
\ 1 1'
{[0
m
■h|p|
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li
300
VOYAflE Tf) THE rOT>AR SEA.
Arnrr.
' 2i)th. — Teinperiitui-e, minus 8°, liiilit snow fjiUing
Avitli a, breeze from tlie iiorthwjird suflicieutly sti'oiiir
to collect it ill the slieltered ])luces Jiiid so cause very
lieavy trsivcilling. Afber a four days' rest, wliich has
enabled his crews to recover from their first ex])erience
of Arctic travellinjf, Lieutenants Eeainiiont and Raw-
son, and Doctor Co})})ino-er, with twenty-one men
drafi^Lnnu' four sledges weiuhted to 218 lbs. a man,
J!
I s
lAl'K liAWsON SXOW-Sl.Ol'K.
stai'ted at 7 p.m. for the north coast of Greenland ; pick-
injjj up their provisions at Cape Eawson, whither they
had been carried by sledj^e crews of the " Alert " while
exercising preparatory to starting on their journeys.
' llnd. — Eawson returned unex]>ectedly from Lieu-
tenant Beaumont's ])arty for a new five-man sledge,
one having hopelessly broken down while crossing the
barrier hummcx'ks, although a roadway had been made
AlMUl.
i very
•1) hiis
'I'ieiice
lltiw-
3 men
I uum,
; piek-
ler they
while
icys.
ni Lie II-
sled'ie,
the
n made
ng
1S70
SLEDGES.
P)()7
through tliein. Tlielieavy eiglit-man sledges stood th(>
great strain in what would l)e a sur])risiiiu- inaiiiier
even to the ear|)enters who made them. The sailors
are even beginning to think that now with the |)lial)le
nprights it is im])Ossihle to break thcni. They are
certainly a great triumph of ingenious workmanslii]),
but the small sledges are far too sliuht for our work ;
indeed, they were never intended lor it ; e\'en Sii-
Leo])old M'Clintock never expected that we should
ha\e to t)-av('l over such heavy ice. Tiiev are
broken by sliding too quickly doAvn an inclined hum-
mock or sastruo'i and striking the front horns ao-ainst
the next ridges, the weight of the caro-o acting like
a battering /am. The drag ropes revei'sed would of
course enable the sledge to be eased down; but in
misty weather the snow-road is so deceptixc tliat tlie
crew do not become aware of the declivity until they
have flomidered to the bottom of it themselves, it
is as much as they can do to escape out of the way of
the descending sledge ; fortunately at the bottom of
most of the inclines there is usjually soft snow in
Avhich it buries itself and so generally escape.-. 'Jhe
eight-man sledges being longer and stronger are l)etter
litted for the rough work than the smaller ones,
' The sledge which has been to the " Discovery ''
and also to Greeidand and back this season, after all
the perils and numerous capsizes it has o-one through
Avithout being much damaged, is naturally a favourite
one with both Egerton and Lieut. Eawson. Many jokes
are made that the latter broke his own before start ino-
on his long journey on purpose to obtain Egerton's well-
tried one. If so, he Avas su(^cessful, for while Egertt)n
X 2
h
h^J
mil
I
':^m\
III
#ri.
/
308
VOYAGE TO TIIK POLAR SKA.
Apiiir.
Rji' I
was out of the Avay Rfnvsou oljtuiiit'd ])osscssioii of llio
covc'lcd ailiclc. with whicli he (quickly (lisai)pt'niv(l to
rejoin his party.
' 2:)/v/. — Cai)taiii Ste|)liensoii and Mr. Mitcliell,
Hans the Eskimo, with William Douufall ice quarter-
master, and Henry Petty a marine, arrived Avitli twelve
dogs from the " I)is(;overy," havin<^' left that shi]) on
the 18th. They have ex|)erienoed stroni^ northerly
wuids duriuii' the journey, and, like the other travellers,
a very rouj^h road; but, with the exce|)tion of the
leader who is severely attacked with snow-blindness,
nil are in excellent health.
' Over rough ice a hirge team of twelve dogs is
too many for one sledge. If their traces are all of
equ.'d length the dogs become collected too close to-
gether, and those whokeej) on the outside of the crnsh
are forced to drag with their trace at a considerable
angle, while several of the weak dogs being imable
to push their way into the crowd cannot tighten their
rope at all.
' A large ])arty of dogs should certainly have traces
of different lengths ; but then in rough ground those
in advance would turn the corners too sharply, and get
out of sight of the driver. Amongst Inunmocks, the
frec[uent sharj) turns require the dogs to be as close to
the sledge as possible.
' Dr. Moss, adopting night travelling, started late
in the evening for Cape Joseph Hemy with a depot of
provisions for the retiu'n of the main party of travellers,
his crew dragging 207 lbs. a man.
' Captain Stephenson accompanied Lieutenant
Ari'her for twenty miles on his way up Lady Franklin
Aritir,
1876
LADY FRANKTJN SOUND.
309
Sound, and .^nw liis ineii tliroiinli tlic fir.st difTuMilties
Avliicli inex])erieii('ed tnivollcrs must idways t'X])C'(;t in
these re<>i()ns. Owinjr to tlie sheltei'ed coast-line al()n<;
which they journeyed, tlie snow was found to be very
soft, whicli rendered the travcHintj^ more tlian usually
laborious. The steel runners o^ the large eleven-man
sledge had given way, and necessitated a change being
made for the more serviceable eight-man sledge.'
Ca])tain Stephenson states in his report : —
' On the 14th, I went on with them till luncheon
lime, when bidding them farewell, accompanied by
Mr. Miller, I retraced my steps over their tracks to
the ship, arriving on board at 4 .SO r.M. of the 15th ;
just taking me a day and a half to walk the distance
the heavy sledges had occupied six whole days to
ac('om])lish.'
The travellers from the ' Discovery ' had im{)roved
upon the ])lan of painting a badge on the back of
each man's (luck-jum})er, in the ho})e of ])rotecting the
eyesight of the man j)ulling behind him, by each
sledge crew adopting a well-executed s])ecial badge,
which appeared more oi'derly than the individual taste
in design permitted among the sledge crews of the
' Alert.' Ca])t{un Stephenson's badge was the Prince
of Wall's' feathers.
The details of the winter passed on board the
' Discovery,' as learnt from Ca|)tain Stephenson, so
closely resemble those of the 'Alert' that it would
entail a great amount of re])etition were I to record
them liere. A full report by Captain Stephenson will
be found in the Pari. Papers, c. 1636, of 1876, and
fui'ther observations will shortly be printed. The
■
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310
AOYACJE TO THE POLAR SEA.
AlMtll,
Metc'oi\)l(\i>iciil Ab.strat't and the Giune list are ])iib-
lisliod Aviili tIio.se of the 'Alert' in the A])|)endi('es.
' 24^A. — A.s the road near the base of the chfls in
llobe.son Channel will be inijmicticable for sledjics after
the tliaw has set in, I have sent Lientenant Mav. who
has now quite recovered from the effeets of tlie frost-
l)ite he received in tlie autunni, witli the dog-sledjix; to
Lincoln Bay to look for a road overland. Feilden
acconi])anies him, and Mr, Wootton has joined the
])iirty as a volunteer worker.
* 2Sth. — The tem]:)erature has risen to 5° and the
black bulb thermometer in the sun's rays registers 79° ;
consequently on the black smface of the ship's side,
and on tlie exposed faces of tlie snow-ca])])ed rocky
clifls, long icicles have formed. On the southern side
of ihe lloebergs the hitherto trans])arent ice has become
cloudy, and is covered with a beautiful coating of
elllorescence, consisting of elegant feathery crystals.
' Where the stratification of the snow-covered floe
has become exposed at a newly-formed crack, the
lower part of the snow is ol)served to have granulated,
the grains a])pearing inclined to collect together per-
pendicularly, and to increase in size by amalgamating,
leaving intermediate air-spaces. The snow near the
ship's side granulates in a similar manner, leaving a
8i)ace at the back or underneath, proving that the greater
[)ortion of the work is ]K'rformed by reflected heat.
To-day I noticed a marked evidence of this power :
a piece of wood was coated with a layer four inches in
thickness of clear transparent ice, which when in the
sl^ade could not be removed from it without bringing
away pieces of the wood ; after being exposed to the
AiMtir,
' pub-
's.
liffs in
s iif'tcr
■. Avlio
frost-
(IliO to
'Vildc'ii
'd the
1870
DECAY OF SNOW.
ail
Sim for 51 few minutes Avlien tlie lem])eriiture was only
5° the ice beciime sepunited from the wood, the heat
M|)j)arently |)assin«i tlirou^h it and mehiu^u' tlie ice oidy
wiiere it touclied tlie wood.
'The sun beinj,' so powerful, articles dry readily
in tli(! open air. On the return of any sledge ])urty
the damp blanket bans and tent robes are hung up on
the south side of the ship. They at once become
coated with numerous minute feathery crystals, Avhieli
appear to be ever evaporating and ever forming.
' The oftener they are brushed oil' the better.
' The snow has l)een cleared off from above all the
skylights and bull's-eyes, but still the lower-deck is
perfectly dark. This is a very grejit disadvjintagc ;
besides rendering it necessary to ex])end candles and
oil, it is gloomy work livina' in the dark, while the sun
is so bright during the whole twenty-four hours that
when on deck we are obliged to wear coloured
spectacles.
'The invalids Avho are unfit to join the sledges
have a great press of work to ])erform in the necessary
duties on board the sliip. They have far too little
outdoor exercise. The officers are obliged to help
in many ways, and anyone who will turn a hand to
manual labour can readily find useful employment.
' Where dampness was prevalent during the winter
mildew is now collecting, and would do so to a very
prejudicial extent if left undisturbed. This mildew
grows ra])idly on the beams, clothes, books, pa})ers, etc.
' Since the IStli I estimate that two more iiu-hes of
light snow have fallen, making five inches altogether
since the 1st of March, As the evaporation is now
i
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A nil I,
i.'Xct'ediiiii' tilt' |)r<'('i|)ilii(i()ii tliis does not ro|)rcseiil tlie
lotul fiill. 'Yhv l()|)s iiiid broAv.s of tlio liills, wliicli
wvw. quite ])iii'e in Fehrnaiy and Murcli, are now
liidden under tlie tliin but universal coverin<f of snow.
Any stone jirojectiuiLi; tlirougli, and against wliicli the
sun has full i)lay, is, however, kept clear by the quick
evaj)orati()n ; the snow a])])ai"ently chanjiin^^ first into
ice and then disa])|)earing without wetting the (kii'k
ba«:kground.
' The ])tanni_uan ])assing tlie neiu'hbonrhood are
evidently seekin<>- better feedinu'-i'Tounds. There are
no willow-plants nncovered by snow near us. All the
tracks we see are those of birds proceeding towards
the north-west, generally in pairs. They light near
any uncovered ])atch of ground likely to be vegetated,
run acro.ss it, Avinding their way through the snow
furrows in .search of the willow or other food. On
aaiiiinn- the western ed<fe of the cleared oTonnd the
trail is lost by their flying to the next nncovered patch,
where it is sure to be fonnd again.
' ?A)th. — After a week's stay. Captain Stephenson,
with his crew of Hans and two men, with eleven do^s
— one very fine one having died during a fit — started
on his return to the " Discovery," leaving Mr. Mitchell
on board the " Alert."
'In the evening Lieutenant May returned with his
])arty from Lincoln J3ay, having travelled overland to
Cape Union, but from thence he was obliged to follow
the coast-line.
' xit the head of Lincoln Bay vegetation was rather
abundant, with mimerous trac;es of hares and ptar-
migan, but no nuLsk-oxen as we had hoped. One hare
1870
IJNOOIA' HAY.
;n:]
Wiis sliot l)v Mnv ;iii<l l'\'il(l('(i, jiIUt ii wjilk of over
twenty Jiiik'fs in .suarcli of uiiiiii'; it was l)roiio^lit back
for PlMc'I'scii.
* At iiii(liii;4-lit Dr. Moss i-ctunicd from ('a|H' Jos('|)Ii
Jlc'iiry, having' cstablislicd the (l(.'j)oL of provisions and
secured it from tlie (k'predations of animals ; a dnty
wliicli, as men's lives depend ujjon it, requires tlie
utmost euro and forethou<fht. Tliree of liis men ai'c
complainiuL!' of their leu's heini; still' after their ([uick
travellin^i' ; hut thei'e is notliin«j^ alarming' in this, as
the journal of every Arctic traveller relates similar
troubles.
*" JIai/ 1st. — George Emmerson, ca])tain of one of
Jk'aumont's auxiliary |)arties, returned from Kepulse
J^)ay for a second load of provisions. While crossing
liobesou Channel J3eaumont had severe work. Jioth
the small sledges were damaged and one man had
injured his side by being jsunmed between tlie
laden .sledge and an ice hunnuock ; otherwise tlie
journey had been fairly successful.
' 2n(/. — Mr. Egerton, taking charge of tlie " Dis-
covery's " auxiliary .sledge, s:arted for Greenland, the
crew dragging 101 lbs. a man. He carries oi'ders to
Dr. Co])])inger to ])roceed to Polaris Bay, visiting on
his way all the cairns erected by Caj)tain Hall and the
other members of the " Polaris " expedition. Mr.
Egerton also carries over one of Mi'. Berthon's canvas
boats for Beaumont's use later in the season.'
Up to this ])eriod all had gone well with the
Expechtion. We had advanced to the extreme limit of
naviijfation at the northern end of Smith Sound ; the
ship was admirably placetl for ex])loration iind other
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Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST M^ .N STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716) 873-4503
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314
VOYAfJK TO tup: I'OLAU SKA.
May
juirposes, and the slod^^e crews, formed of iiieii
5i|)|)iireiitly in I'ull liealtli and strenjrtli, liad obtained a
fair start on their journevs under as favourable eir-
eunistances as possible <'onsiderin|j the heavy nature of
the ice. lint on the 3rd Doctor Colan informed me that
five of the crew had undoubted scorbutic s^'mptoms.
However, as each case had some predis|)osinuf cause 1
was not then seriously alarmed for the L'eneral health
of (he lCx|)edition.
'';]i(l. — This eveninjjf Lieutenant Gifl'ard returned,
hav'n;/ left Aldrich thirty miles beyond Cape Josej)h
Hem\ ; he reports all the ])arty well and in thehijjfhest
s|)iiits. Owini^' to the soft snow the travelling had
been very slow. No game had been seen except o;.e
])tarmiuan and four hares at Cape Joseph .llemy,
>\
hid
1 ^^•el'e s
hot.
' 4t/i. — Lieutenant May started with the dog-sledgc
)-^'
it
weighted to OS lbs. per dog, for Greenland ; to brin
back ^[r. Lgerton who is conductinir the "Discovery's"
auxiliary sledge aci'oss EoJ)eson Chaimel. Sinnnons
being ill, Joseph fc?elf has now taken his place as dog-
driver.
' To-day the ice was 70| inches thick
This ))roved to be the maxim
urn
thick
ness it
attained throughout the season.
'Last night we exi)erienced a strohir breeze from
the northward, with a heavy snow-drift and a fall in
temj)erature to minus 10° combined with a damp mist;
the hoar-frost collecting on the rigging for the fii-st
time this seasou. This damp wind is |)eculiar; we
trust for Mai'k ham's sake that it is not caused by the
ice breaking up.
prai
1870
J'lIJST AIM'KAHAXCE OV SCrilVV.
815
'We must now ('xju'ct ji loiiji' coiitimiaiK-o of fojjf^'y
woatlitT When the to|)S of the .snow-clad liills blend
with the misty sky \»ilhout any line of demai-(ati|)ii,
a!id nothin;,' hut ice in si'dit, it is anythin;jf hut in-
s|)irilin;jf to Aveary traAellers Few can realize what
the nortluTii ])arty are undei'^'oiiiijf stru_L'^din;i along
tlu'ir ni()in)tonous road of ruujicd ice, unable to see
far enouirh ahead to choose the most level route
throuudi the lunnmocks,'
This foe was experienced by each of the travellei's.
Cai)tain Markham remarks : —
'After advancinu' for about half-a-mile, which (lis-
tance took us nearly four hours to acconij)lish, we
arrived at such a confused heaj) of hunnnocks that in
the present thick state of the weather rendered a farther
advance impossible; we were therefore co:nj)elled to
halt and ])itch the tents ' ....
' Itk. — Dr. Colai) is becoming very anxious about
])oor retersen, who bears his trials cheerfully and
patiently, but is very weak.
' Jjieutenaiit Gillard started with a sledge crew,
dragging ITo lbs. a man, to comj)lete the depots
of |)rovisions for Lieutenant Aldrich's return. He also
took some provisions to Cape Joseph Hemy for Com-
mander Markham, and one of lierthons collapsable
boats.
'Along the borders of the old lake-bottoms the
nnid, which was frozen as hard as any rock durinix the
winter, is now ])ulverizeil; where a month ago ji was
diflTicult to dig t)ut stones and shells with a metal
instrument, a stick or the fmger can now e.'isily be
forced an inch deep !.ito the softened eartli ; this
1
I
I
•t
I
\:\
■J
i%*.
1
1
1 1
31(5
V()YA(}E TO THE POLAK SEA.
May
must I)e entirely due to ('vn])oration. The lioar-fiost
collected on the riL'niii}.'' three diiys ago hiis disappeiucd
a_L'ain, tiie hair-hygrometer registering ten degrees'
diU'cieiice of tension.
' [)(k, — May and Egerton returned from the Green-
land coast; this ^\•ill be the last trij) across the norlh
end of the channel this season. The same road having
now been travelled over by so many sledges, eacli
party helping to improve it, it is in fair order and
enables a ra|)id journey to be made. Egerton had mcl
Dr. Coppinger, returning from Ik'aumont's advanced
party, at the Kepulse Harbour depot, just in time to
sto]) him crossing the channel to the " Alert."
' I^r. Copjanger re])orts that Beaumont's sledges have
expei'ienced even greater dilficulties and worse travel-
ling than we expected. From their place of crossing
the kStraits, they found that the coast-line for nearly
the entire distance to Ca])e Stanton, Avas formed either
l)y veiy steep snow-slopes or ])reci[)itous clifTs, the
bases of which I'eceive the direct and unchecked
pi-essure of the northern pai'k as it drifts from the
north-westward and strikes against that ])art of the
coast nearly at riu'ht annles. The chaos am(m«jst the
llv)ebeigs near the shore was something indescribable,
id the travelling the worst that could ])()ssibly be
ai
d.
for-
nnagmed, seven days uemg occupieu m movmg
ward only twenty miles.
'It wasdidicult to say which was the better road —
through the wilderness of pressed-U]) ice or along the
I less
snow-siones, wnere a roadw
•1'
,'hei
d)
«^y
had t
stee])ly inclined
be cut for the entire distance travelled. The pjuty
was, however, persevering with light hearts and (.leter-
1S7()
SNon-iu:\Ti\(}.
017
milled sj)inl.s ; lookiiiii- I'orwnnl to llic (ravcHin*! lu'coni-
iiig lu'lkT jit'tcr tlu'v roimdcd Capo Stanton, then oidy
two miles from them.
' Lieiilenant May liad followed up the ^I'Cormick
valley lyini,' to the eastward of Ca|)e Jirevooi't and
leadin;! towards Newman Jiay. lie (hscovered a fair
road, with a hard snow-lioor and a ^^'ntle incline some
two or three miles lon;^% leadin;jr u\) to a dividing! plateau
about 400 feet ahove the sea-level. Fi-om the siumnit
of the cape, ?,000 feet hi«.di, he oi)tained a maiiiiificeiit
view ; but the heavy climb haviiii/ necessitated his
taking oil' his outer coat, he was almost froxen befoi-e
he could do more than t)btain the most important
bearinjjfs.
'The first snow-l)UutinjT wjus seen to-day. Many
jire the s])eculations whether they also will j)ass us for
more favoured (piarters.
'At noon, water Avjus seen for the first time tricklin^jj
down a clifT with a southern as|)e(;t, but on reaching,'
the colder jri'ound at the foot it aj^ain froze into ice.
The tenn)erature in the shade during; the afternoon i"ose
to 17°.
' 11/A. — Mr. Wootton, commandin<r a shMljxe crew
■with the remainder of Connnander Markham's j)rovi-
sions, left to-day for Cape Josej)li Henry. On the
completion of this duty all our travellers will be ))ro-
vided for. 1 have, therefore, started ofi' Ca|)tain
Feilden with Mr. E<jferton, Frederick and Jame^; Self
and six dogs, for an excursion amouLrst the United
States llan<xe of hills. Mr. Mitchell accompanies them
with a few dry ])hotographic i)lates. We trust that
they ^vill discover the nuisk-oxen haunts, for we arc
II
4
11
' ■ ,; iS
ni8
VOYAfSK TO THE POLAR SEA.
Mvv
, I*
k ill
iV ■
s.'idly ill want of fresh meat for our invalids. Strict
onk'i's aiv "^ivoii to cacli slod^^i' party to hi'iiiji' hack f(ir
the use of the sick all ijauie shot, even a siiiLde ptarmigan.
To-day there are nine men reconnnended to have a
chanjjfe. of diet in consecjuence of showinix .scorbutic
.syi?iptonis. 'J'hree of these are the ice-quarternuisters,
three are cooks and stewards, and three .seamen, one of
whom has, liowever, been employed as shi|)'s cook on
board the "Discovery" durin;/ the winter. One of the
.seamen ha.s been ailinjj: for a considerable time ; he is ji
nio.st inveterate smoker, and it turns out that he pre-
fei's salt to pre.served meat, and h;us eaten very little
of the latter duriufj the winter.
' lith. — Poor Petersen died this evening;, passinrj
away quietly without ])ain. Dr. Colan has been
incessant in his attendance, not only in a medical
capacity but as a nurse ; .so jierfectl^y .self-saci'ificinj? is
he that I am .seriously alarmed for his own health.
'Yesterday the snow on the up])er-deck above the
cookinjjf-jjfalley melted, the water runnin<jf out thi'oujih
the scuppei's. It is hijih time that it wa.s entirely re-
moved, but our few workmen can only be spared to
work occa.sionally. Owinjjf to the weight of that
which has already been thi'own overboard the water
has overflowed the ice in such quantities that we
cannot now approach the shi]) on the inshore side
■without jjettin^ wet feet. In the clods of frozen snow
and gravel exposed to the effect of the sun the snow
evaporates quickly without melting or trickling down.
' The temperature of the earth at a depth of eighteen
inches ha.s risen to minus 5° ; the mean temperature of
the air is therefore now warmer than that of the earth.
1870
DEATH OF rKTElISEN.
r,i9
TIk' siiow-fiill since i1k« 'JStli of A])!*!! is ostiiiuitcd nt
one an(l-a-l»!ilt' iiiclies, ii»ai\iii!jf six luid a lialC since the
1st of Marcli.
''lltli. — Doctor Moss sliot a snow-buiitini; to-day.
Althoiidi the tempia'atiire of tlie air is only 15°, near
the sunny sides of tlie ll()ei)er^'s it is above 32°, conse-
quently eacli is decorated with a hauL'inj; neckhice of
short ^/raceful icicles.
' The snow on tlie hill-tops is disappearinjx veiy fast
by evaporation. The hair-liy_Ln'onieter continues to
work in an unsatisfactory manner; after bein^' cleaned
it acts correctly for two or three djivs, but then remains
fixed in one position.
' 19M. — Ni( Is Ciiristian Petersen was buried to-day
on the brow of a hill a fpiarter of a mile from the ship
where the snow never collects ; the irrave will therefore
always remain conspicuous. No documents are buried
near it, so it need never be disturbed.
* To-d.ay the <;ravel exposed to the sun ate its way
down into the snow for the first time, but the ice is not
affected yet. The larjxe flakes of snow that fall now
are cons])icuously different from the fine particles which
fell during the cold weather.
' We are all unanimous in favour of a snow-shoe
brigade for journeying overland, but they would.be of
no use when sledging over the hard ice such as the
Franklin Search Expeditions met with.
' 21st. — Mr. Wootton returned this evening from
Cape Joseph Henry with his party in good health. He
brings us two ptarmigan for the iinalids, who a])pear
to make no progress Avhatever towards recovery, and
evidently require a fresh meat diet.
i
%
I
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^•■1
320
VOYAfJK TO THK IMH.Alt SKA.
Mu
ill
.i^i
I;
' Snow-l)iiiit'm<zs ill their siiiiinicr |)liiiiia;.'<' and a
KMiiiiiiiij.^ with liis .smmiu'r dark j"ur were olMaiiied
to-(hiv.
' 2'h'd. — The teiiii)eratiire of tlie sea-water has
risen to 29**, both at the smfaca and at a de|)tli <»!'
five fatlionis. Tliis is a rise of half a de;,n-ee since the
•\vinter and before the tein|)eratiire of the air has risen
to anytliiiig hke tlie same dejj^ree. It is an interesting,'
])i"obleni wheiKie (X)nies the warmth niiless by an ocean
current.
'In di<x;j^in^ a hole in tlie ice in order to measure its
thickness it was found to be saturated with water, which
drained into tlu; hole as it does throii^di the earth
into a well. During the (;old weather the ice was
])erfectly dry.
* When the tein])erature of the air was 10° a lliermo-
nieter buried 18 inches in a floeberj: registered 11°; ii
lower tem])erature than that of the air for the la.st three
or four days. From this we may reason that while an
ordinary piece of i<'e seven or eight feet thick beconn*s
saturated with water and readily melts, a floe ei'dity
feet thick retains its cold temperature and remains
free from water for a long time. I very much regret
the long glaeier thermometer having been broken
through the freezing of the mercury during the cold
season, otherwise an important series of ob.servatioiis
miyrht have been obtained.
'24^/i. — Her Majesty's birth-day: dre.ssed the .shi|)
with flaj2[s, but I trust we shall be fbrtriven for
Ti'''
])utting
olTthe general holiday for a more o])])ortune .season.
'Lieutenant Giffard and his sledge crew re-
turned on board from j)la('ing Lieutenant AldriclTs
Mvv
1870
LIKUTKNANT (ilFFAlU) liKTUUNS.
:}2i
iiiid :i
l)taiii«'<|
tor lijis
C'J)tll ol'
nee tlu*
as risen
L'lVstill^r
II (x-caii
iisiiiv its
r,A\lii(li
I' eartli
ice was
tlienno-
\V; a
ist tlireo
vliilf an
)ecoiiU's
ei;jrlity
email IS
I'eLnet
hrokcn
le colt!
vat ions
lie sliij)
])Uttin;^^
ison.
lew re-
Mricli's
reliirn depot. Tliey Iiave done their work well and
expeditiously, but untortiinately two of his men have
broken down, with scorbutic symptoms.
'Thistrij) is another instance of how dependent
Arcti(; travellers are on Jill the sledjjfinir arran<;ements
beinjjf carried out to the letter, and how the failure of
one su|)portin^' sledj/e may entail disaster :)n the chief
])arty. Mr. Gin'ard was obli<:ed to establish the depot
of ])rovisions at the |)oint a^^nved upon previous to the
return of the advance ])arty under Lieutenant Aldrich.
On his journey to perform this duty two men hopelessly
broke down; not havinji suflicient time to return with
them to the shij) before the main ])arty would arrive
at the pre-arrauged depot, he was necessarily obliged
to leave the invalids for five days in a snow-hut,
made as comfortable, or rather as free from discomfort,
as circumstances permitted. The following extract
from Lieutenant GifTard's journal refers to this
incident :
' On the 12th of May I came to the conclusion
that I must leave Lorrimer behind in a snow-house
whilst we went on to Ca))e Colan with the depot. He
has l)een gradually getting worse ever since we left
the ship, and there is not much chance of getting him
off the sledge again now for some time. On the loth,
whilst luncheon was getting ready, the sledge with a,
half load, advanced to James Koss Bay, and I looked
about for a suitable place to build a snow-house.
Both on the land and bay the snow was too soft ;
however, close to the shore of the bay, "svas a large
old hummock, which looked j^romising ; we went up
to it, and found a capital place.
VOL. I. Y
1
ii
1
■II'
322
VOYAfiE TO THE I'OI.AU SKA.
M\v
5 '1
i
' The lollowiiifx tiling's -svcro left for tlic use of tlio two
men avIio reiiiuiiied : — For the sli'e|)iiiiir ])]Mce, besides
the hilars, tlie lower roI)e, the snil, ;m(l tlie two duflle
mats; for cookiiiij:, the stewpnn and ji |)niinikiii I'oi- n.
lamji, Avliich answers very well, as I knew iVoni having
had it tried during the niorniiiii*. Amusements : a
book, " Peveril of tlie Penk," and the two small j)a('ks
of cards su))])lied to each sledjze, ])resented to the Ex-
pedition by the Empress Eugi'uie. For tellinjjf the
time, a eom|)iiss belonuinij to one of the men, mid a
ropy of the true beiirinjjfs for the month. The rifle,
ammunition, saw, and snow-knife were also left.
' WooUey, not knowiiiLT that I intended him to
remain on aeeoimt of his own stiflhess, volunteered to
stay behind to take eare of the ])atient. Lorrimer was
assisted down to the snow-house and put in his bap\
Having; said <rood-l)ve to the two men, Ave started aei'oss
James Koss Bay.'
Five days afterwards, on the return journey,
GifTard relates : ' On the IStli Wof)lley was seen coming
to meet us from the hospital. He told us that
Lorrimer Avas no better, and Avould certainly have to
go back to the shiji on tlie sledge ; he took a little
exercise daily, but it has not taken away the stifTiiess.
The snow .all about the hospital and neighbouring
land was too deep and soft to allow of any extended
walk beini>' taken. No livinir thinu' was seen during our
absence ; once Woolley thought he heard the scream of
a gull. The hospital was never too cold, nor did the
wind trouble them at all ; the great discomfort was the
damp from the snow melting inside whilst the men were
asleep. The time had passed very slowly, and would
if\
till' two
bosidos
) (liilllo
II for a
having
iMits : ii
11 jjjicks
tl,e Ex-
in^ the
II, iiiid ii
lie rille,
J*
him to
eered to
iiier was
his bag.
m1 aeross
ouniey,
coniiiifij
us that
have to
a little
stifTncss.
ibouring
xteiided
rhig our
•ream of
did the
was the
en were
would
ls7(5
rNni:i) status if.wciK.
•>.).>
.»j.j
iiave been vcit dull had il not been for the Em|)res,st(
cards, which all()rded jfrcal amusement to the men, who
arc deli;j;lite(l ^vith them. On icaclmiL'' the hospital we
all went in to si'c Eorrimei-, who was verv Ldad to see
us again; he was very weak and low-spii-ilcd, (juile
muible to walk, or do anything almost, wilhonl lu'l|).'
During the homcwai'd journey Woollcy was ob-
liged to fall out from the drag-ropes, und linally had
to be carried on the sledge. The day following their
arrival at Floeberg lieach a third man was taken ill with
scurvy, while the remaining four ap|)eared in good
health. One, howevei", was attacked twenty-four days
afterwards; and anothi'r, IStuckbeny, forty-four days
after liaving been placed on the regular ship's ration.
To the westward of Ca|)e Jose|)h Henry, the snow
in the sheltered hollows had proved to be even softer
than it was eai'lier in the season ; the sledge was fre-
quently buried, and the men sank knee-dee|) at every
stej). Under such circumstances a Hat sledge would
be better than the high-runner sledge ; but for genei'al
service, and more especially for travelling over ice, the
latter is to be [)referred. Is'o traveller can afford to
take both.
Mr. Egerton and Ca|)tain Feilden returned on the
24th fnmi their exploration in the United States
Eange. Like GifTard they found all the plains and
valleys which were sheltered by mountains from the
westerly winds, to be simply impassable from the
quantity of soft snow collected in them. Selecting a wide
valley that opened up from the coast in lat. 82° 40' N.,
and which stretched in a westerly direction into the
interior, they followed it np for about twenty miles,
Y 2
m
<j
k
Sll
:]2[
V()YA(JK TO TIIK I'()[.\K SIIA.
Mav
r ■ i ';
k t
II
but were* fiiiiilly bmiiM-lit to ji staiidstill by soft suow-drif'is
wlii<'li stivtclu'd contiiuiously jici'dss it. Alxdit fi>iir
milt's lu'voiicl the exlrt'iiu' poiiu they ivuclu'd a \viill
s , * . . . . ■
of snow or ice, risiii}/ perpeiidiculiirly to :i liei^Hit
of forty or fifty feet extended across tlie valley and
sloped ii|)\vards to the westwards, until at a disljiuce of
thirty miles the toi)s of the mountains, at least two
thousand feet hi;^di, just appeared ab(ne the enormous
snow-slope.
Thou^di the travellers used eveiy effort to reach
this barrier, they failed, owin^^ to the softness of the
snow-drifts, and were unable to determiiu; with cer-
tainty w.iether it concealed the ed^e of u n^lacier or
Avas a stu])endous collection of soft snow. It seems,
however, imjxvssible that such an enormous quantity
of snow, over a thousand feet in thickness, could accu-
mulate without turning' into ice throujjfh ])ressure, so
that although we cannot delinitely state that we met
with ixlaciers in Grimiell Land between the eijrhty-
second and eighty-third ])arallels of latitude, yet there
is good reason to believe that they do exist in the
interior of the country. Each of the hirge valleys on
the southern slo[)es of the United States Eangc also,
api)arently, contaius a glacier; and a suow-caj) was
observed on the most northern huid sighted on the
Greenland coast. Eecent traces of mnsk-oxen were
seen, but none of the animals met with. Four hares
jind four ])tarmigan were shot ; and a snowy-owl and
several snow-buntings seen. Frederick the Green-
lander returned from this jonrney attacked with scurvy,
though he had taken his lime-juice regularly both on
board ship and when travelling.
1H70
VIEW l'\U)M MOUNT .IlLIA.
;i25
As all tlic depots of |)mvisi<)iis for the wo of llu;
tnivcllcrs on tlicir ivtiii'ii jourm'ys liiid lu'i'ii (ifposiii'd,
I di!('idi'd to nro to Cape Joseph Henry, to obtain a
view of tl)L* northern ice from the lofty mountains in
that locality. Lieutenant May and Ca|)lain Feilden
uceomi)aiiyin^nne, restarted front the shipou tlie "JMh.
Followin<; tlio coast-line as much as j)ossil)lo, we
roachetl otir destination on the 'illtli. 'I'he weather
l)ein«x remarkably clear, the opj)ortuiilty \' as taken to
ascend ^Mount Julia, the hi«fhest |)eak near the sea,
^vhich rises to an elevation of not It than 2,()(H; feet.
Th". ''imb throujjfh the snow was very laborious, and
we were more than five hours rear hiiiL' the sununit
of llu! hill, its base bein^' four miles from otir tent.
The view fnmi the top was su])erb ; the atmosj)lK re
was surpassin«;ly clear, not a cloud ai)|)eaied in the
sky from the horizon to the zenith ; in sonie of the
valleys and along parts of the shore directly bi'low us,
II low mist hun<r, but a few miles to seaward this
entirely disajjpeared. Tier ii[)on tier of ])yramid-
shaped hills stretched seventy or ei^ihty miles to the
westward, averaoinrj from 2,U00 to 5,()()() feet hioh.
The two hij^hest ])eaks of this ranue were named
Mounts HaAvlinson and 13artle-Frere. To the eastward,
distant not less than a hundred and twenty miles, the
hills of Greenland about Cape ]h'itannia were j)lainly
seen, but to the northward no land or the faintest a))-
pearance of land was visible.
The interminable pack appeared from our lofty
station to consist of small floes hedged round by broad
barriers of rough ice, until in the extreme distance it
blended with the horizon ; not a pool of water or the
I
1
It
il
t
I .1
■if,
I ill
' I. ,4
I; If
|5 H;;:
! li'
r
;{2r)
VOYAOE TO THE POLAK SEA.
Mav
fjiiiitest api)earaii('e of water-('l(>'i(l ^va.s to be dis-
til igiiislicd within the range of our vision, ^vllic•h em-
braced an arc of a Innuh'ed and sixty deirrees. We
were perfectly satisfied tiiat no hind of a great elevation
exists within a distance of eighty miles north of Cape
Josej)h Henry, and none at all within fifty miles, wdiich
from our look-out bounded the \isible horizon. We
may rest assured therefore that from the coast of Grin-
nell Land in latitude 83°, to the eiglity-fourth parallel
of latitude, stretches the same formidable ])ack which
was encountered by Markham and his companions.
Whether or not land exists Avithin the three hundred
and sixty miles which stretch from the limit of our
view to the northern axis of the globe, is, so far as
sledge travelling is concerned, innnaterial. Sixty miles
of such pack as we now know to extend north of Cape
Joseph Ilemy is an insuperable obstacle to travelling
in that direction with our present aj)})liances ; and I
unhesitatingly ailirm that it is impracticable to reach
the North Pole by the Smith Sound route.
To our great disa])])ointment avc observed that the
extensive ])lains, with niuneroiis deep and broad water-
courses leading from the mountains into James Koss
Bay, were covered with deej) snow ; not a solitary
rock or boulder was showing above the continuous
white surface. Perhaps in August, Avlien the snow
has melted, there may be good feeding-grounds for
musk-oxen, but the state of the coimtry when we saw
it precluded any hope of meeting with those animals.
After passing more than an hour on the top of the
inountaih, taking bearings with a theodolite, we be-
came so intensely cold that we were obliged to desist.
Mav
i'M'h
1870
LlMlvSTONK FOSSlLri.
;i27
We tlieii built u cairn ol" siiflicient .size to bo visible
tj'oiii the shore, and returned to tlie canij) ; thouj^ii we
descended the iiill witli ureat reluctance, for I would
gladly have obtained a fuller series of observations.
Mount Julia is coni|)osed of grey mountain limestone;
and it was a curious reflection to make, as we built
the cairn in the midst of as glacial a scene as can be
imagined, that the shells and corals which were em-
bedded in the rocks we handled, had in the far-off
past inhabited a troi)ical sea.
During the next two days we were })artially con-
fined to the tent by a strong westerly gale, with a
continuous heavv fall of snow ; in the midst of our
discomfort it nuide us realize how exceptionally for-
tunate we had been in obtaining the view we did
from the toj) of Mount Julia. During the lulls in the
g de, which sometimes lasted for a coii])le of hours, we
employed ourselves by quanying in a neighbouring
ravine, where the exposed strata on either side were
replete with fossil forms belonging to the mountain
limestone or sub-carboniferous ])eriod. I need scarcely
mention that we loaded u]) our sledge with these
precious relics, regardless of all consequcnc'es, wrapping
up the more delicate s])ecnnens in our spare change of
clothing, our only regret being that we had to abandon
a quantity of the origintd collection. As it was, our
return journey to the ship could only be accomplished
by advciucing with half-loads at a time, and so
henvj in many places was the sodden floe that we
were frequently obliged to *urn round and face the
lightenetl sledge, and advance a few feet at a time
with rej)eated 'one, two, three, hauls.'
If*
4'-
N
i
: 1
,.i:
;^28
^■OYAGE TO THE POLAR SKA.
M;iY
fm
i:.,i'
Ml
ii(i
On Feilden Peninsula there appeared to be a con-
siderable amount of vegetation, judging from the
remains of former seasons, and we came across more
than one skeleton of musk-oxen, so that I have no
doubt that later in the year it is a favourite resort of
these animals.
On the ord of June we started on our return to the
shij), burying three hares, the only game that we had
been fortunate enough to ])rociU'e, in a crack in a floe-
berg, for Markham and his men. Little did we think
at the time that they were actually encam])ed on the
ice only two miles distant from us, though com-
pletely hidden from our view by a thick mist, which,
shrouding their outward track, had landed them in a
Avilderness of heavy ice in a truly deplorable state.
Out of a pai'tv C)f two officei*s and fifteen once
powerful men, five were lying lielpless on the sledges
dragged by the two officers and six men, all of whom
were themselves consideraljly cri])pled ; whilst four
others, imable to lend a hand at the drag-ro])es, just
managed to crawl along, keeping ])ace Avith the slow
advance. The boats, and every article of provisions or
clothing which could possibly be spared, had been cast
aside in order to lighten to the utmost the sledges
weiudited with the invalids.
In all ])robability, had we known of their being in
our neighbourhood, the life of poor George Porter,
who died six days afterwards, woidd have been
«ipare(
On the 4th, we encamped on a gravel s])it forming
the south point of the second bay south of Cape
Eichardson, greatly enjoying the dry ground after a
1870
ICE IN FROZEN LAKES.
329
if
I'
long journey over the sliidjry floe. Snow-buntings in
considerable numbers now enlivened us witli their
sweet ha])|iy song, and several knots [Trivga canutns)
with small j^arties of tunistones [Strepsihis interpres)
and sanderlings {Calidris arennria) were feeding on
a ])atch of well-advanced purjjle saxifrage.
The bay where we encamped, which I named
Knot Harbour, is the most northern slieltered ])osition
on the coast. It is o])en to the north-east, but owing
to its narrow entrance, which is not more than a
quarter of a mile wide, no large floe coidd enter.
Its neighbourhood appears to support more game than
any otlior position north of Discover}^ Bay.
On the Cth we crossed the Land behind Cape
Belkna]), and encamped on the ])rojecting spit between
the Dumbell Lakes, where we Avere disap])ointed to
find both hill and ])lain com])letely covered with snow.
In fact, the late snowfall had buried the land deeper
than at any time since the ])revious autunui.
The ice in Dumbell Lake, which had not yet begun
to thaw, was 91. ■, in(;hes thick, and the water troni
below, Avhen reached, rose to within 8i inches of the
siuface of the ice. All the water in this Lake had
certainly not been froz mi during the past winter, and
afterwards we found that it was well stv»cked with a
small species of charr, Salmo arctuims, Gunther ; in-
deed, we did not ascertain tliat any of the lakes that
contained fish froze to the bottom ; the evidence tended
to the contrary'.
On the moniing of the 7th, Feilden and I started
to walk to the ship, twelve miles distant, where we
arrived in the afternoon. The snow from the last
n
I
' .1
(I
m
330
VOYAGE TO THE I'OLAll SEA.
May
Htorin was very soft, wet, aucl hetivy, and rendered the
travelling extremely laborious.
During my absence Mr. Egerton obtained a tem-
perature-sounding lialf-a-niile distant from the land off
IJlack Ca})e, in thirty-two fathoms of Avater. The
temperature at a dej)th of two fathoms was 28°"5 ; at
live, 29°-2 ; at twenty, 29° ; and at thirty, 29°-4. The
thickness of the ice, whi(;h was a small patch frozen
during the ])ast winter, was 49.|, inches.
At this date, with a mean temj)erature of the air at
about 30°, a pool of water, which rose and fell with
the tide, encircled each groimded floeberg, causing the
ice in the neighbourhood to decay rapidly. Although
my visit to Cape Josej)h Henry was made during the
neaj)-tides, it was noticeable that there the rise and fidl
of the tide was decidedly less than at Floeberg Beach.
1«7(5
IXCUEASE OF SCURVY.
381
CHAPTER XIIL
INCUEASE OF SCURVY — CONVUEARE ARRIVES FROM IMSCOVERV I!AY —
PROCEEDINGS OF I'ARTIES FROM ' DISCOVERY ' — LADY FRANKLIN
SOUND — liOATS TAKEN TO GREENLAND — POLARIS HAY— CAPTAIN
hall's grave — HIS LAST RECORD — CHRONOMETER — VITALITY OF
WHEAT— COPPINGER's JOURNEY.
Early in the iiioiith of June three more of the crew
were j)hK'ed under inedical treatment with scorbutic
symptc)m.s ; eiich of tliese men had been em])loyed with
the sledoe.s, but two had been receiving tlie reguhited
shi])'s diet with hme-juice for three weetcs prior to the
aj)})earance of the disease.
On my return to the ' Alert ' on the 7th there were
fourteen men belonging to that ship, and two Ijelong-
ing to the ' Discovery ' who had been under ti-eatnieiit
for scurvy. Of tliese only one, a very mild cjuse, had
recovered; the others did not appear to im])rove
rapidly, altliough they were given the most com])lete
change of diet at our disposal ; with the excejition of
fresh meat, it was as good as could be desii-ed.
Although one or two men of tlie sledu'e crews
employed on former Arctic exi)editions had been
attacked by this disease, the generality had entii-ely
csca])ed; therefore, considering the carefully selected
])rovisions with which we were pro\idcd, the outbreak
m
y
I
\}\
h il'1
.< t
i^H
I
>. ; i
^'ir^
J
%l
. A ..:
^wm*
■^^Mijcn»
%
332
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
May
was most inex])lic*able and unlooked-for. It wa.s, how-
ever, encouraging to learn from the re})ort.s of our
predecessors how transient the attacks had usually
proved, and how quickly the patients recovered with
rest, the advance of smnmer, and a change to a more
generous diet. Nevertheless, so serious an outbrejik
naturally made me anxious for the health and safety
of the numerous travellers absent from the ship ; but
as they were tlie strongest men out of two crews
specially seh^'ted for Arctic service, I certainly never
contemplated such a comi)lete breakdown as actually
occurred.
Mr. Conybeare arrived on board the ' Alert ' on
the olst of May, after a journey of nine days from
Discovery Bay. Owing to the water having forced its
way up tlirougli the tidal-cracks and overflowed the
ice m many places, he had experienced even greater
difhcidty in travelling up Eobeson Channel than any
of his predecessors. Off Cape Frederick VII. he met
with three pools of water, tlie largest of which was
over three hundred yards in length.
Mr. Conybeare was the bearer of despatches from
Captain StejDhenson, which informed me that Lieu-
tenant Archer had returned to the ' Discovery ' on the
2nd of May, after having explored Lady Franklin
Sound to a distance of sixty-seven miles in a south-
west direction from Discovery Bn;^, where it termi-
nated in two fiords. Mr. Anther reported that — •
' Tlie inlet originally called Lady Franklin Strait
may be described as a deep soimd or fiord, which
extends for Ji distance of sixty-five miles into Grinnell
Land. It is nine miles broad at the mouth, and at a
May
as, liow-
i of our
usually
-ed with
) a more
outbreak
id safety
liip ; but
o crews
ly never
actually
lert ' on
lys from
breed its
»wed the
greater
than any
he met
uc:
h
was
lies from
at Lieu-
' ' on the
Franklin
a south -
it termi-
i—
in Strait
1, which
Grinnell
md at a
1870
LADY FRANKLIN SOUND.
83^5
distance of twenty miles from Distant Cape separates
into two arms. Conybeare Bay, the most northerly of
the two, does not seem to extend more than ten miles
to the west of the Kep])ers Head ; it has not, however,
been thoroughly exj)lored. The southern arm is
between four and five miles broad at the mouth, and
forty miles long, trending to the south-west, till at
Eecord Point it divides into the two small bays in
which the sound terminates. For the whole of its
length it is surrounded by steep precipitous cliffs,
which at the farther end are veiy high, being in one
place over 3,000 feet sheer. A considerable quantity
of the heavy Polar ice was met with till within a few
miles of the head of the bay. The remainder of the
ice was of a small Imnpy description, with but few
young floes amongst it.'
In the most southern of the two fiords at the head
of the sound a large glacier was observed in a valley
descending from the Victoria and Albert Mountains,
estimated to be 5,000 feet in height. The glacier
ended at a distance of about ten miles from the shore ;
its end was therefore considerably above the sea-level.
In the northern fiord, Lieutenant Archer, after a
severe climb, which occupied him seven hours, reached
the summit of Mount Neville, 3,800 feet above the sea.
From that elevated point the United States Eange was
sighted to the W.N.W., and a glacier was discovered in
one of the valleys, but ending at a considerable height
above the sea-level ; an extensive plain led from
Beatrix Bay some twenty miles inland to the foot of
the United States Eange. To the westward ihe moun-
tainous land was lower, estimated to be about 2,000
I
i
i (3
I-!?
r'1
334
VOYAfJE TO THE POLAU SEA.
May
».:.• '/i-t'
feet hjfih, and oxt(Mi(liii<jf for an unknown distanco.
Mr. Arclier remarked tliat, considcriiiLT tlie hei<flit
to ■wliic^h he ascended, it was somewhat remarkable
that no hifjh mountains were visil)le at any ffreat dis-
tance to tlie westward.
Two small glaciers were observed on the southern
shore of the sound in valleys descending from the
"mountains on Judge Daly Peninsula. In both cases
the glaciers ended at a distanc;e of about a mile from
the sea.
A herd of eleven nnisk-oxen were seen, but none
were prociu'ed. The tracks of hares were numerous
in the neighbourhood of Ella Bay and other places ;
two of these animals Avei'e shot.
After an absence of twenty-four days the party
under ^\ie command of Lieutenant Archer returned in
good health to Discovery Bay.
Mr. Conybeare, who connnanded the auxiliary
sledge in the ex])edition to Lady Franklin Sound, had
returned to the ' Discovery ' on the 20th of April, after
an absence of twelve days from the shi]). His crew of
eleven men were in excellent health with the excej)tion
of one, who was slightly frost-bitten in the foot. The
only fresh meat obtained by this party was a single
hare, which was killed on the southern side of Bellot
Lsland.
On the 2nd of May Mr. Conybeare left the * Dis-
covery ' with a crew of eleven men to transport a
fifteen-foot ice-boat across Hall's Basin to Polaris Bay.
On the 5th of the same month, Lieutenant Archer's
return having placed a greater number of men at his
disposal, Captain Stephenson decided to send two boats
Il
1870
POLARIS RAV.
3;ir)
across the chnniiol to \\w. GrocMiland shore. A dog-
sledge desputclied to rccnll Mr. Conybeare nnd liis
men overtook them on tlie 5th, when about six miles
from land.
On the 7th of May Lieutenant Fulford and Mr.
Conybeijre finally started from the ' Discovery ' with
eighteen men, dragging a twentv-foot ice-boat on a
twelve-man sledge. On the following day they reached
the spot Avhere the boat had been left ; the party was
then divided, eleven men drafroiurr the larger boat
and seven the smaller one. On the 12th, after five
days' travelling, ihc boats were safely deposited near
the depot at Polaris Buy, and the same evening Captain
Stephenson accompanied by Mr. Hart likewise arrived
there.
While crossing the channel the weather was thick
and gloomy with a strong i)reeze from the southward,
which made the journey very nn])leasant, but the ice
was the best they had yet travelled over. Some large
floes of yonng smooth ice were met with in Hall's
Basin, but on both sides of the chaimel, near the shores,
hnmmocks and pressed-np ice formed considerable
barriers ; the greatest obstacles being met with on the
Greenland coast.
On the loth of May, in the presence of twenty-
four officers and men, Cajitain Stephenson hoisted the
American flag over the grave of Captain Hall, and at
the foot erected a brass tablet brought from England.
The inscription read as follows : —
'\\
I
'* I
i"}
«
a;^«
NOYAOK TO TITE POLAR SEA.
May
i'
m
1'
m
1:
SI'
II
HR
1
SACRED TO TUB MEMORY OP
CAPTAIN C. F. HALL,
oftheli.S. ShipTolaria,'
Who sacrificed bis Life in the Advancement of Science
on NovemLer 8th, 1871.
Tliis Tablet has boon erected V)y tlio Hritisli Polar Kxpodition of 1875,
Who, followinj; in his footsteps, Iiiive jirotitcd by bis ox])orionce.
GHAVK OF CAPTAIN HALL.
On the 15tli, Doctor Coppiiiger arrived from Eefiige
Harbour. His party had found Captain Hall's cairn on
the north side of Newman Bay, and brought away
the record, leaving a copy in its stead. They then
crossed the bay and visited the boat-camp on its
southern shore, where a party from the ' Polaris,' under
the command of Mr. Chester, endeavouring to proceed
to the north, spent part of the summer of 1872. The
following extract from Doctor Coppinger's Ee])ort gives
M\y
lM7(i
rAPT.MX HAIJ/S l.'IX'OI.'n.
ce
lof 1875,
ioncc.
1 Eefuge
cairn on
it away
ley then
i on its
3/ under
proceed
2. The
Drt gives
iiii jiccoiiiit of his liiKliiio- the (•;iini crccicd hy Ihill on
liifs lastjounicy, and refers to ilie coiidiiioii of the boiits
and stores left at the b()at-cMiii|».
'The jx.iiit of Xewmaii liay which I Imd reached,
after crossinu- the land from Uepulse Ilarbotir, |)ro\ed
to l)e about live miles to tlie e.tsiward of ('a|)e Urevoort ;
therefore, after coastiiiir abciit two miles to the west-
ward, I came to the |)ositioii of CajUaiii IbiH's cairn.
Here I I'oimd the record in ;; i^ood stati' of |)fescr\;i-
tion, bui'ied ten feet east (true) of a stone at the
mar^^in of the cairn on which was cut '' 10 FKKT E."
Havino- taken the oriLnnal document and deposited in
its stead an accurate c(>|)y, accom|)anie(l by a l)fief
account of my juust and |)i'ojecle(l movements, I pi-o-
ceeded across the inoiith of Newman Bay towards
the boat-cani]). The latter I found situiile<l, as ex-
l)ected, about one and-a-half miles IVoni Cape Sumner,
but only hve tmd-a-half miles from Hall's cairn. We
cain])ed on the lloe about a (piarter-of-a-mile from
the site of the tent and boats. Althouo-h our stay
extended over forty hours, we were most of the time
conlined tt) our tents by a irale from the st)utliwai-d,
and consequently unable to make a w^vy complete
examination of the American stores. One tent we
found near the mouth of a ravine, colla|)sed, froxen to
the ground, and ])artially covered witli snow. The
whale-boat lay bottom upwards on a flat piece of land
about a hundred yards from the beach, lashed down to
heavy stones and frozen in by mud ; Avliile the canvas
boat was with difficulty discovered, buried in snow,
and lying about eighty yards from the whafe-boat and
two hundred from the tent. The whale-boat was
^'0L. I. z
li
1 !
u
-■I , "
O.IO
VOYAOK TO TIIK POI.Al! SKA.
^fAY
■■■■^i^^
jstovc ill on llic starlxtjii'd bow, Inr wliicli dcrccls \\\v
luutcriiils iiL'i'L'.ssjirv for n*|)iiir.>s vvert' at luinU ; in otlicr
re.s|)e('tM .slie was servicoablc.
'Thii stores foimd iiikU'I' tlu* l)oal. seemed to have
been but little ailected by the weather; for instance,
some biscuit, ol" whicli then' was about twenty j)ounds,
lyiiiji loose in the lockeis, Wiis in ^^nod condition. Great
dilliculty was experienced in ^ettiiij^' at some of the
oear, the ba^s, for instance, beiiiLf frozen so stillly that
it was impossible to examine their contents without
teariii}.! them in j)ieces.
' Expectinjjf to lind two tents to correspond with
the two boats, I searched in various directions for a
second, but in vain. Therefore liavin;^ made a rou^di
list of svivh stores as circumstances would aihnit of our
examining", havin<; packed ujjon the sled<.;es the instru-
ments and documents whicii I could transfer to Polaiis
Bay, and having erected a conspicuous cairn and
attached thereto Ji record of ])i'ocee(lin«;s, wc struck
tents, packed u|), and proceeded to the eastward.'
Cajjtain Stejjhen.son during lus stay at Thank God
Harbour, took the |)recaution of ])lacin<jf a depot of
])rovisi()ns on the shore of Newman Bay, in order
to insure relief to the ])arty under the command of
Lieutenant Beaumont, in case the heavy snow lying on
tlie neck of land between that bay antl Hall's Hest
delayed the travellers on tlieii* return journey from the
north. This duty was carried out bv Lieutenant
Fulford and Doctor Co])|)in<;er. ,
From the 12th to the L5th of May the travellers
at Hall's Best ex|)erience(l a, gale from the north-
ward. On the H)th the barometer fell, accompanied
1870
POT-AItrS HAY.
a:]9
hyii second <j;ak' IVoin tlu' hjuiu' diri'ctioii, uilli a ^Tciit
(leal of SI low -drift, which coiiliiiod thciii all to their
tents. The drift was so thick that, nolwithstaiidinjjf the
live tents were pitched ch)se together, it was at times
impossible to conmumicate between them.
On the 17th, Captain iStephenson and his party of
thirty ollicers and men recrossed the channel in seven-
teen manthin*,' honrs, leavin<jf Lientenant Fnlford, Doc-
tor Coppin^er, with two men and ei^^ht do<:s, to ex|)lore
Peteri • in Fiord ; with orders to retnrn to Polaris Jiay
before the l.Jth of Jnne, on which date it was ex-
))ecte(l they Avonld meet Lientenants lieannutnt and
Kawson and their men, I'etnrnin^' from the exploration
of Nt)rth Greenland.
The rtx'k in the vicinit\ of Polaris ]^av was fonnd
to be a hard limestone containing' no fossils, tlion^h
over the entire conntry fossiliferons drifted limestone
■wa.s scattered. Evidences of the recent elevation of the
hind, in mnd-beds risinjx to 500 feet and contaiiiinjjf
marine shells, were abundant. Traces of fox, lennninjjf.
hare, ptarmij^an and snow-bnntin»i[ were observed.
Eitxht ll()werin<f plants, the I'emains of last season's
•growth, and some mosses and lichens, were collected.
The ice-foot north of Ca[)e Luj)ton was observed by
Captain Stephenson to be of a more massive construc-
tion, and the ])ack «>enerally of u heavier tlescriptiou
than that on the western sidi3 of the channel.
• All the records, and articles brought from Polaris
Bay and the boat-camj) in Newnuui Bay, together with
the American ensign which was hoisted v er the grave
of Captain Hall, during the stay of our men in the
neighbourhood, were, on the return of the Exj)edition
(
.«
m
'i>ii
ml
4
n
1
?i
£ "2
340
VOYAGK TO THE POLAR SEA.
^[ay
to England, forwarded by tlie British Admiralty to the
United States Goverinnent. The chronometer found
at the boat-camp, after four years' ex|)osure to the
vicissitudes of Arctic tem))erature, ke|)t excellent time
from the ])eriod of its arrival on board the 'Dis-
covery,' until that shin returned to ]*]nuland dui'iuii"
November 187(5.
A bau" of Avlieat was found at Polaris Bay, which
was, I understand, sent to the Arctic Eclhous from the
Smithsonian Institute of Wash i nut on, for the |)urj)ose of
ascertaining;' the power of cereals to resist the extremes
of cold ; after an ex])osure for at least four successive
Avinters and three sunnners at Polaris Bay, out of a
small sam])le tried at Kew by Sir Josej)h Ilooke",
sixty-two ])er cent, germinated ; the rest of this grain
was returned to the Smiti.- 'lian Institute.
In order to avoid the heavy pac-k outside of Caj^e
iirevoort all the North Greenland division of sledges
crossed the land at the back of the cape, through the
M'Cormick ])ass, on their return journey's. During
the month of May when the snow-floor, cemented
by the frequent gales, ])resented a hard road for
sledging. Dr. Co])i)inger was only a day and a half in
crossinu". Between the 21st and 24th of May, Eawson,
with an invalid on his sledge and himself snow-blind,
was a little more than three days in j)erforming the
journey ; and between the 14th and lOtli of June,
when most of the snow had melted, and water was
rushinu" down the southern ravine, Lieutenant Beau-
mont returning with his crii)|)led ])arty crossed in five
days.
I append the following extract from Dr. Coppinger's
' f *
^\
187(5
^['COIJ.MICK VAIJ.KY.
841
acoomit of his journey tliroiii^li tlie Pass; the esliinated
height of whicli is about 400 ieot.
' Having ('()ui|)lote(l our work at the Repulse Bay
(lei)ot, we started on the 8th of May, and proceeded
ah)ng an exc^ellent ice-foot towards the mouth of
M'Corniick Valley. The cliff's of this coast, under
Avhich we j)assed, ])resent a bold, unweathered sui-iace of
dark limestone, a])])arently devoid of fossils, but con-
taining some yellow ore, ])rol)ably iron j)yrites. On
reaching the mouth of the valley we cam])ed on a
low Hat piece of land bordered by old raised beaches.
After three hours on the march we made good four
miles, tem])erature 5°.
' At 10 p.Ai. started and ])roceeded along M'Corniick
Valley, which for the first twt) miles is a plain half a
mile in width, slo])ing up to the southward by a gentle
gradient, and lined on both sides by unmistakable
raised beaches. On either side rise cliffs and ])eaked
mountains from 2,000 to 3,000 feet in height ; the cliff's
on the east side being formed of vertical, slightly
contorted layers of a clayey barren limestone. All
about this reach of the valley we found numerous frag-
ments of shells, which mark the area of the old sea-
bed. Some of the raised beaches ])rescnt clearly cut
sections twenty feet high. showiuGf well-delined alternate
layers a half to tAvo inches thick of stratified nuid and
sand.
' As the land loses its marine character, we
entered a narrow winding valley, nearly level, and
bordered by rounded hills of about two hundred feet
in heiglit. While i)ros])ecting from the summit of one
of these 1 picked up u drift fossil, {ii)parently a worn
! fi
'! ! I
■I
i )|
M
\f^>\
m
1^
I
y-
l>hii!
fiiv-"
■';■■>■ !'
: I' '. I
tfl
842
YOYAGE TO THE POEAR SEA.
AfAY
cup-coral. Frequently in the sides of the gully we
])assetl rock i?i .situ, not covered by snow, and consistin<^
in some places of a calcareous slate ; in others of a
confused mass of clayey limestone in the form of
rectangular sticks one to two feet in length.
' Following the simiosities of the valley, the travel-
ling was excellent, and the general direction S. by W.
In about three hours it led us by a gentle rise to an
elevated plateau covered with hard crusted snow.
Having traversed this ])lateau for about half a mile,
the floe of Newman Bav came into view for the
first time, apjiearing to be about two miles off. We
now found, riuht in the course which we had been
pursuing, a ravine leading down towards Newman Bay ;
and expecting to find in it better snow-travelling than
on the land on either side, we determined on following-
it. At 7.45 A.J[. of the 9th we camped in the ravine.
' At 0.30 r.^r. we started and proceeded down the
ravine, which soon degenerates into a narrow tortuous
gully, whose prec'i]:)itous sides of clay slate approach
so closely in places as only just to give passage to
the eight-man sledge. The bottom is, however, well
])acked with snow-drift, and being sheltered from the
sun by vertical cliffs, ])robably remains a good road for
sledging until the spring is far advanced. This ravine,
from its commencement in the high plateau, slopes
ra]iidly to the southward, i.e. towards Newman's Bay.
We spent a great deal of time road-making along the
sides of snow-slopes, cutting down opposing snow-banks,
and with drag-ropes revei'sed, easing the sledges down
steep inclines. In one place we lowered the sledge down
a little snow-precipice sixteen feet deep. At 12.40 a.m.
liil
1876
NEWMAN BAY.
343
of the 10th we readied the sliore of the bay and haUed
for hiiicli, having made <j;-ood two miles.'
Dr. Cop])iiiger found a smooth Hoe of one season's
ice extending; across tlie mouth of Newman Bay, between
tlie position of Hall's C'airn and the boat-cam]) ; l)otli
ohl and young floes were met with inside the bay.
The entrance must, therefore, have been free from
pack-ice when the frost set in the ])re\ious autunn.
The fresh trucks of a bear were observed in the
bay, it is therefore ])robable that it manaired to exist
in the neighbourhood durinir the previous winter.
On the ])lains between Polaris Bay juid Newman
Bay, estimated to be 300 feet above the sea, tlie soft
snow rendered the travellini; bad, but beinij favoured
by a strong easterly wind Dr. Coppinger's party crossed
in two days. lie states in his re|)ort, ' Our road is
still the same undulating ])lain, covered everywhere
with soft snoAV, without a track of bird or beast, and
presenting to the eye as dreary and monotonous an
aspect as can avcII be imagined.'
w.
*4f
I
.m
344
V()VA(il'; TO THE I'OLAU SEA.
J INK
CILVriEU XIV.
r.IKUTEXAN'T PAKR ARIUVKS ON BOARD ' ALERT ' — PISTRKSSING COXPl-
TION OK XORTHKHX DIVISION OF SliKDGES — RKLIKK PARTY START
— DFATlt OF CiKOKOE PORTER — MAKKIIA.m's .JOURNEY.
kM
IP ■'•!
¥■ ■!■■
h li*
fi,: ,;:l'.
I
i
On the evening of the 8lh, Lieutenant Parr made his
ajipearance on board the ' Alert.' As he crossed the
quarter-deck, silently nodding to the one or two who
chanced to meet him, liis o-rave and weary ex-
pression was unmistakable, and in a very few
moments the certainty that some sore calamity had
occurred had spread throughout the shi|). So trnvel-
stained was he on entei'ing my cabin that I mistook
him for his more swarthy fi'iend Beaumont, then on the
Greenland coa.st, and therefore anxiously questioned
him concerning the disaster which had occasioned his
totally unexpected return.
I then received the distressing intelligence that
nearly the whole of Connnandor Markham's men were
attacked with s(;urvy and in want of immediate assist-
ance. Markham and the few men who were able to
work had succeeded in conveying the invalids to the
neighbourhood of Ca])e Josei)h Henry, twenty-seven
miles distant from the ship, and were still advancing
sk)wly ; but each day was rapidly adding to the in-
tensitj' of the disease and the number of the sick.
ISrO IJKI.TKNANT TARU AIUilVKS ON BOAIM).
a4o
Under llic'se circimistjiiiccs rai-r ii()l)]y voliinloorcd to
brinu* mv tlio iieAvs jiiul so obtaiu ivlicl' for ]iis com-
]){UlioMS.
ytnrtiii<i" "witli only iin ii]|)ensto('k and a small
allowance of ])rovision.s, at tlic end of twenty miles he
arrived at a sliootin<x tent in Dnmbell J^ay, wliei'e lie
hastily made himself a en]) of lea ; pnshino- on, he
eom])lcte(l his lon;^' and solitary walk within twenty-
four hours.
Arnniaements Avere at once made to ])i'0('eed to
Comimnider Markham's assistance, and by midnijiht
two stronp^ ])arties of officers and men had started ;
Lieutenant May, and Doctor Moss who wore snow-
shoes, jiushiuii' on before us, with the do<i;-sled<jfe laden
Avitli a))]iro|)riate medical scores. By makinjjf a forced
march they reached Markham's camj) within fifty
hours of Parr's dejiartnre.
Their arrival had naturally a most exhilaratinji
effect on the stricken men ; but to our great reuret
they were unfortunately too late to save the life of
George Porter, who only a few hours ])reviously had
expired : he was buried in the floe by the wayside.
Early on the following day I joined them with the
main relief party, when the hope and trust which had
never deserted them wa.s quickened to the utmost ;
even the prostrate men losing the depression of s[)ii-its
induced by the disease that had attacked them, and
which in their case was much intensified by the recent
loss of their comrade.
It is diflieult for a stranger to the surrounding cir-
cumstances and scenery to realize the condition and
appearance of these men, who in spite of their truly
1 1
< fii;1
lii
il
V ..-
til
il
i I
jii
346
VOYAGE TO THE TOLAK SEA.
JrxE
^' -" * '.<'
'hV
pitiiible state Avere yet niivkiii,!; slow progress towards
the shi|).
Oil iny first iiieetliio- tliem Markliam and five men
were dratrging two sledges, tliree hands at eaeh ; eacli
sledge being freiglited with two invalids and as much
of the tent fnrnitnre as was requisite to keej) them
warm and to form as comfortable a couch as the cir-
cumstances and the rongh road ))ermitted. Lying on
the top of the third sledge, which was laden with the
rest of the baggage and the ])rovisions, and left about
half a mile in the rear, was a fifth invalid.
l^truggUng along over the uneven, snow covered,
ice as best they could, were fonr other men whose
limbs becoming daily more cranii)ed foretold that
ihey must shortly succumb ; they were gallantly holding
out to the last in order not to increase by their weight,
a moment sooner than could be avoided, the already
heavy loads beimr drau'u'ed by their very sliirhtly
stronger com])anioiis.
These j)oor fellows were in the habit of starting ofl'
each morning l^efore the main ])arty, kmnving that if
they experienced a, bad fall or came to an unusually dee]i
siunv-drift they could not recover themselves without
help. Frequently the sledge party overtook tliem
lying helpless ou the ice ; but once raised on their
legs, with a smile and some hap]w cheerfnl ex])ression,
again they would start on their painfnl and Aveary
iourney.
With the exception of Markham, who dragged to
the very last, and in addition had to pioneer a way for
the sledges before the daily start, the others remaining
on the drag-ropes were in a great measure dependent
Jr.NE
owards
ve in en
I ; each
s iniicli
|) tlioiu
lie cir-
yiiijZ on
■itli the
"t about
•overed,
I Avhose
)\d that
lioldin.LJj
Aveiglit,
already
sliditly
rtiiijx ofl'
that if
Jly dee])
without
k tlieni
m their
)ression,
1 weary
iL'SJfed to
way for
'inaininjz
^pendent
1«76
STATE OF THE NORTIIEHN PARTY.
IU7
on the leaders, John Ivadniore ap.d Thomas eJollifTe.
Although these two men were tlie most vigorous of the
vsledge crews, they were greatly enfeel)led ; yet rather
than resign the post of honour as leaders, which entailed
the extra laliour of treading down a pathway through
the snow, they journeyed along su])poi ting each other
arni-in-arni, and by kee|)ingthe drag-ro])e taut afforded
a means of support for their more disabled eoini)anions
in the rear.
The ])revailing good-himiour and diitifnl submission
of one and all of tlu^^ ■ men to the severe labour de-
manded of them, their manful and determined struggle
along the roughest road imaginable, is far beyond all
praise. After seeing their condition there is no difficulty
in realizing the statement concerning Sir John Frank-
lin's men, as made by the Eskimo to Sir Leopold
M'Clintock, ' They fell down and died as thev Avalked
al
ong.
Early on the morning of the 12tli the whole ])arty
encamped on the shore at Ca])e Hichardson ; exchang-
ing the dreary ])rospect of icy desolation afforded by
the confused disarray of ice hummocks, which had
so frequently bounded their view for nearly sixty days,
for the agreeable siu'ht f)f the newly-si)routin<x but
sparse vegetation on the sides of the iV.miliarand well-
known hills, noA\^ becoming ])artially cleared of snow.
Equally inspiriting Avas the change, from the intense
solitude of the inanimate ])ack, afforded by the frequent
sweet song of snow-buntings collected confidingly near
the tent, the sharji call of some knots Avliich Avere
flying about in flocks of ten or a dozen, and the oc-
casional deep notes of some geese Avhich had oppor-
In
1 1
:f
m
It'll
•\
'f
Hi
h':
' • ^ I
I .1
tm
348
VOYACJE TO TIIK TOLAli SKA.
Jink
tiMK'ly just iirrived from llic soutliwiii'd iiiid were
lookiiijjf for it rostiii»jf-|)lace.
This total chaii^^e of circimistaiices, to^futlicr 'witli
the anxious aud unrcniittiuij care ot" Dr. Moss, tlie
aheratioii of (het, and a ])lentiful su])|)ly of fresh ^^anie
and hniejuice arrested tlie disease, and at onee pro-
duced a marked improvement in the a])])earance of
all.
The following; is an abridired account of this
memorable sledL^e journey which is ])ublished in the
rarliamentary Blue Book, c. KJMO, of 1877.
In addressino- the crews of the two sledges previous
to tlieir departure I made the following statement : —
' The work before you, although not more ])erilous
than Arctic journeys usually are, will imdoubtedly be
a very arduous and irksome one, and monotonous in
the extreme. The daily advance will necessarily be
slow ; for you must always journey over the same
road twice, and frequently far oftener. You therefore
cannot hope for the exhilarating s})ur accompanying
quick progress which others will feel ; l)ut are called
on to show that we jiossess the liigh quality of resolute
perseverance to overcome whatever obstacles are before
us,
' The only journey to be likened in any waj' to
yours is tlie similar attemj^t of k5ir Edward Parry to
reach a high northern latitude, with much the same
equipment, and absent for the same number of days.
We all hope that with God's blessing you will at all
events be as successful,'
Extracts from my orders to Commander Markham ;
dated 3rd of April, 1876 : —
1870
NORTHKliX SLEIKSK JOUIJXKY.
iUO
' Tukiii^ii; coiuiMiiiid of the sK'dj^cs '•Marco Polo,"
"Victoria," " Jiull-do^r," ''Alexandra," and "Blood-
hound," you will |)i-ocL'cd to the neighbourhood of
Cape PaiT}', and from thence Ibrce your way to tlie
northward over the ice. with the two boats which have
been ecjuipped for that purpose, and provisioned for an
absence of al)out seventy days.
' The object of your journey is to attain the highest
northern latitude i)ossible ; and to ascertain the ))Ossi-
bility of a more fully equipped expedition rea(,'liing
the North Pole.
' At present we know little or nothing concerning
the movement of the ice in the oiling. The journey
on which you are a])out to engage is therefore a far
more arduous one than Arctic journeys usually are.
The heavy nature of the ice across which you have to
travel has hitherto bailled all attempts made to cross
it, and the formidable obstacles it presents at ])resent,
while stationary, nuist be considerably increased when
once it is in motion. Even during the summer, with
occasional lanes of navigable water between the floes,
Parry and Eoss could scarcely average a daily journey
t)f three miles.
'Therefore, while, with full confidence in your
abiUty and discretion, I leave you entirely free as to
the carrying out of your journey in all its details, I
must direct your most serious consideration — first, to
the extreme hazard of attempting an advance beyond
the time when half your jjrovisions will be expended ;
and, secondly, to the danger of separating your party
or of leaving depots of provisions on a road which it is
impossible to mark, and which ^^iil probably break-up
m
ti
(ti
.']50
VOYAUK TO THE POLAR SKA.
April
W'^''
H
•ill your roar. It is true tliat your uien on the roturii
journey will be draggiug diuiiiiislied loads ; but towards
the eud of the season the ice wi'' jjrobably be in
motion, and one of your chief enemies, the misty
weather, will be more continuous. Over stationaiy
ice, liowever i-ough, there is a choice of roads ; once it
is in motion, no choice is k'ft.
' During your absence, sliould you, contrary to my
|)resent ex[)ectati()ns, exj)erience a general break-U]) of
the ice, or, arriving ;it the edge of the firm ice, find
the outer i)ack broken up, you are to consider the
position you will then have attained as the limit of
your advance ; and, after making Avhat observations
are |)ra('licable, you are to retreat to the ship.'
Extracts from ConmuuKler Markham's oilicial
journal : —
'3;'i/._Left the shi]) at 11 a.m. The western
division, under the command of Lieutenant Aldrich, in
oanv. The travellinu" bv no means irood : snow
»l)any
deep, and the sledges dragging very heavily. This
bein<£ our first march, and the men showing simis of
fatigue, a halt was called at Td.;]!), and the tents ])itched
on the eastern side t)f the neck of land comiecting
Mushroom Point with the main. Men in capital
spirit?
Dist;
ince made ii'ootl six miles
Ath. — Commenced the march at 7.30 a.m. Double-
banked all the sledges over the land, which fortunately
for us had a good covering of snow' ; nevertheless, we
found it hard Avork with our heavy sledges ; the
travelling round and beyond Ilarley Spit excessively
heavy and laborious. Men getting tired, halted at
4.45, and camped. Everything frozen j)erfectly hard.
/ 1.
April
1870
NORTHERX Sr.KIMIE JOUIIXEV
;}5i
capital
To ii.sL' Admiral liicliards' siinilc, our sU'cpiiinf-hiiLTs
I'esemhK'd slicc't-iron, whilst the cume |)a.stt', as our
cook observed, was exactly like a piece of brass, and
was equally hard. We were ;dl huii^ii-y eiioiin-h to I'ut
our full allowiince of |)eiMniicau at supj)ei', aud enjoyed
it. Distance marched ten miles; made good six
miles. Tem])eratuiv minus o')".
' hill. — Although the tem|)erature inside our tent last
night was mimis 25°, we iill slept a little moi-e com-
fortably, or rather a little less uncomfortably, though
dejjrived of all feeling in oui- leet. Travelling much
the same as yesterday, therefore com|)elled to advance
in the same maimer — that is, sledges double-banked.
The men a])|)ear a little stiff, and complain of having
suflered a. good deal last night from ])ain in iheii- limbs,
and are to-day sullering from great thii'st.
'A wolf's track, seen each day since we left the
ship, has been the only vestige of animal life obser\ed.
Encam])ed on the lloe a short distance from Simmon's
Island. The travelling has not imjji-oved, and the
temi)ej'ature has been as low as minus 45°, Evervthint'
very cold and uncomfortable. Distance marched
twelve miles ; made good four miles.
' G^A. — Another cold slee[)less night over. A
beautifully suimy day, but with a tem|)erature at o5°
below zero. Everything frozen still' and hard. Dress-
ing by no means an easy o])eration. Sledges double-
banked as before. Progression slow. lieached ii
stream of young ice extending to Depot Point, the
travelling on Avhicli being good, enabled u,s to single-
bank the crews, and to arrive at Depot Point at 5.30 ;
off which we camped on the Hoe.
Ill'
J i
M
III
m
\\k
;m2
\(»VA(;i: TO Tin; poi-aij si:a.
\|'|;m.
'7///, — Tlic sK'(|nrc. " liloodlioiiiid " liiivlii^' riillillcd
llic duties ciiti'iislc'd to Iici", she Wiis (K's|)iiti'l"'d to tlic
.slii|) iit S A.M. (jrjivi' hvv tliri'c cIu'im-s on piirtiiiL'. A
lu'ttiitil'iil day, hut reri/ cold. A few sliLdit IVoslhites
were sustained yesterday, but (juickly restored. The
Iravellinj.? to-day is it I'oretasti' of what wi' are to
ex|)e('t ; hea\y lloes rrin_L'»'d with lumniiocks, throu^li
and o\ei' which tlie sledii'es lia\e to be (h'a'jued. ])i'.
Moss was lortunate enou^ih to slioot n liare on I)e|)ot
I'oint, wliicli is to l)e reserved as a biuuw. biuiche tor us
when we attain our hij^hest hititude. J^and very inucli
distorted by niira<j;e. Cann)ed I'oi- tlie niirlit on a Hoc
off Cape Hercules. Teni])erature remains extru-
ordinarily low: miiuis 41°. Distance inarched fourteen
miles; made uood four iuid-u-half.
' 8/A. — A charminj/ (h»y, althoujjfh tlie temperature
persists in remaining' low. Care has to be taken in
selectiuu' the road so as to avoid the hummocks as
much as possible ; occasionally we are broiiufht to u
standstill by a belt of more than ordinarily larji'e ones,
through Avhich we have to cut a road with |)ickaxes
and shovels. ^^led^L't's double-banked as beft)re. The
lai'ii'e sledue, on wiucii is the twenty-foot ice-boat,
drags very hea\ ily. T'lis is caused by the overhanging
Avei<dit at the two extremities. Glare from the sun
has been very o])pressive ; the snow in jilaces resembles
coarse sand, and apjiears more crystallised than usual.
A few of the party, including Parr and myself, sufTer-
in<<" from snow-blindness. Distance marched ten miles.
Tem])erature minus 30°.
' 9^/i. — Same system of double-banking the sledges
continues. Parr's snow-blindness is no better, mine no
^il
ij^ru
N()HTiiKi{N f^rj:it(;r, .fncnxKV.
u
worse. Till' snow ;.^o|i^^l('s iwv worn l>y nil, inid rci'-
ttiinlv allord relict' to the eves. Moss is renderinj'
ViihiJihle service by Mssistin*' nie in tlu* selection ot" u
rojid — no cMsy tiisk whilst L'oini: throii,Ldi luninnocks.
Althon^h the teni|)erature is niiiuis ;')0°, the snn luis
sullicient inllnence to dry oni' hliniket wrappei's and
other L'eiir ; the yards of the boats beinj^' very con-
venient tor the |)nr|)ose of tricin^^ np oim" robes^ iSic.
The snow is still \ery deep on the Hoes tnid between
the hnnnnocks, materially retarding our pi'o^'i'ess.
Halted at seven, and encamped on ii heavy lloe.
From its north-western I'dt^e the depot at Cape Josej)li
Henry was plaiidy visible; a nreat relief to our minds,
as tlionirhts of its bein^" buried in deej) snow-drift would
frequently occur to us. Distance marched thirteen
miles ; made oood four.
' lO^A. — Tjeavin^' the tents pitched, we started with
an empty slcd<»e for the depot, distant about two miles.
We experienced heavy work in cuttinj^^ a road throuixh
the line of shore hnnnnocks that jjfirt the coast, and
did not succeed in reaching the depot until eh^veii
o'clock. Sending- the party back to camp, Ahlrich,
Giffard, Moss, and I ascended View Hill (050 foot),
whence we obtained a ockxI look-out. The ju'ospoct
was aiiythin<.j but cheering. To the northward was an
irreguhir sea of ice, composed t)f small iloes and large
hummocks. Our auticipations of slow travelling and
heavy work seem about to be realized. The sun was
so powerful that the snow was thawing, and the water
trickling down on the southern side of the hill. We
shall start to-morrow morning with provisions com-
plete for sixty-three days. Thus loaded, the sledges
VOL. I. A A
m
f
m
i
:.'i
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I i
r,54
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
April
Avill (Iraf^ iiiicoiniiionly licavy, and over the roiioli
Imuimoeks we are certain to eneonnter onr onlv mode
of advancing v.ill be by a system of" double-bankin*;,
Avhicli simply means one mile made ijfood for every
live actually marched. If we accomj)lish two miles
a day it will be a fair day's work. On shore we
observed lunnerons traces of hares and j)tarmigan,
but although Dr. Moss followed up the trails of the
former, his attem})ts to obtain any were not crowned
with success.
'■11th. — A dull, overcast day. Snow falling. I was
again greatly indebted to Moss for his efiicient aid in
assisting me to choose a road for the sledges. Parr being
still laid u]) with snow-blindness, and my sight " not
quite the thing." Aldrich has very wisely determined
to return to the land and try his luck through the Snow
valley, instead of rounding Ca])e Josej)h Henry. At one
o'clock, displayed all colours, and j)arted company
with Aldrich's division and our two sujiporting sledges
amid much cheering. They were soon lost sight of
amongst the hinnmocks. Parr in advance with half a
dozen men cutting a road with ]Mckaxes and shovels,
the remainder of the men dragging u]) the sledges
singly. Got on to a heavy floe and then in amongst
a mass of heavy hummocks, through which appeared
no road or outlet ; but the steady and persevering
exertions of Parr and his road-makers ]ierformed
wonders, and the sledges were soon travelling over a
road that had before looked inijienetrable and impass-
able. The floes are small, but very heavy. It is
difficult to estimate their thickness, but it must be very
consiilerable. They ajipear to have had a terrible
April
the roiioli
only mode
le-baiikiii<;,
for every
two miles
shore we
ptarmigan,
ails of the
)t crowned
iiig. I was
lent aid in
Parr being
si<i'ht "not
determined
li the Snow
ry. At one
. company
mg sled<jfes
)st sigiit of
vitli half a
Liul shovels,
the sledges
in amongst
h appeared
persevering
performed
iling over a
md impass-
avy. It is
list be very
a terrible
* .
*»
if t,
im,
mi
Kf
bK"*'
»'!■
ii !
«»2
]S7({
AVESTERN DIVISION I'VllTS COMPANY
.>.)■)
conflict one with another, the result being what we are
now encountering, namely, a great expanse of Jiuni-
inocks varvinu' in height from twenty feet to small
round nobbly ])ieces over which we stagger and fall.
Between these hummocks the snow-drifts are very deep,
and we are continually floundering up to our waists,
but the men struggle bi-avely on. Possibly when ^\e
leave the vicinity of Cajjc Jose])h Henry, and get well
clear of the land, we may ex])erience better travelling,
larger floes and less snow. One thing is ])rett3^ certain,
we cannot have nuicli worse, and this is a consolation,
Encamj)ed amongst the hummocks, after a very hard
and Aveary day's work. The men a])])ear ji good deal
done lip. The road-making was incessant the whole
afternoon. Distance marched ten miles ; made good
two and-a-quarter.
' \2th. — An miexpected but mostaTatifyinij chanufe
of temperature caused us to pass a comparatively com-
fortable night ; temperature inside oiu' tent as high as
16°, and during su])per rose as high as 22°. After
breakfast, connnenced with half a dozen road-makers
cutting a road through the hunrnocks, leaving the
remainder of the party to strike the tents, pack, and
bring up the sledges one by one as fiir as the road was
])racticable. Being a betuitifully bright sunny day,
the tent robes and other gear were triced up to the
masts and yards to dry. Parr's eyes are imnrovinu",
and he now works like a slave with])ickaxe and shovel,
working with and su|)erintending the labours of tlie
road-makers.
' After lunch emerged from the hummocks on to a
small floe, and then through another mass of hunnnocks,
u
A A
if
.']5G
, t
I 1
i.,Ji
VOY.vrfE TO THE TOEAIl SEA.
Apuil
luiviiii' oiilv nijule about liiilf a mile (lurin'Mlio after-
noon.
' The surf are snow on tlie floes sparkles and <.ditters
Avith the most beautiful iridescent colours, the irround
on which we walk aj)|)earin^' as if strewn with brijiht
and lustrons u'enis ; diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and
sapphires bein^' the most ])rominent. At 3 P.M. ob-
served the fresh traces of a lemmini^. It is stranixe the
little creature should wander so far from the land, the
nearest i)oint being quite three miles off. Crossed
over some streams of young ice, and through a long
fringe of hummocks leading on to a large floe of
'' ancient lineage " ])resenting an undulating surface,
and having on it diminuti\e ice mountains, or frozen
snow-drifts, from iifteen to twenty feet hi heijj^ht.
Halted at the edue of a belt of hnmmocks, throui>h
which a road was cut wliilst the tents were being
pitched. Cam])e(l for the night, the men being rather
fatigued, having had a hard day's work. We are all
suffering from cracked skin, the combined action of sun
and frost, our lips, cheeks, and noses being especially
very sore. The tem])erature all day has been delight-
fid, ranii'iiiix from minus 8° to minus 20°. Travellins'
through hummocks is most unsatistactory work ; it is
a succession of standing ])ulls — one, two, three, haul !
and very little result. Distance marched nine miles ;
made ixood one and-a-half.
' loth. — Piissed through a fringe of hummocks about
200 \ards in breadth, then arrived on a fine larjj^e Hoe
that afforded us caj)ital travelling for about a mile due
north, and then on to another long fringe of large and
troublesome hummocks, until we were completely
''J!^
1870
NOKTIIKKX .Sl.KlMJE .lOUJJNllY
or,"
broii<:lit II]) h\ eiionnoiis masses of ico. ])il('(l up, ])ioce
(jn piece, to the lieiu'lit of over twenty feet. Tliroiidi
this we resolved to cut a ])assa<>'e, ah]ioiit>li foreseeing
it would be a long and tedious job ; however, there
appeared no other alternative, so ininiediatcly after
lunch the road-makers, always supervised and headed
by Parr, wlio is not only a first-rate engineer but also
i\ most indefatigable labourer, set to work to cut a road.
This by 6 P.M. — 'vvith such resolution did they Avork —
was com])leted, the sledges dragged through and on to
another old Hoe, girt by more hunnnocks which wci'c
in their turn attacked by Parr and his gang, and we
had the satisfaction of halting and encamping on a fine
large floe, which ])romises to give us a good lead for
some way to the north to-morrow. Parr, I am ha]>]iy
to say, has quite recovered from his snow-blindness.
' 14:th. — Crossed an old floe, having a deep incrus-
tation of frozen snow on its surface, rendering the
dragghig very laborious, then through a belt of small
himimocks on to another fiiir-sized floe. These belts,
or cordons, of hunnnocks vary in breadth from 50 and
100 yards to as much as a quarter and half-a-mile.
As a rule round the larger floes a]i])ear the heavier
hunnnocks. We have been assailed by an un])leasant
nipping breeze fi'om the northward, our faces being
constantly touched u]) by Jack Frost. Temperature
minus 28°. We were em])loyed, during the afternoon,
in making a road throuuh a more than ordinary broad
hedge of lumnnocks, and ])ulling the sledges through,
we made in consequence little head-way. The wind
fresheiling and the weather becoming \ery thick, Ave
halted earlier than Ave otherAvise Avould have done.
v: i
i
.V
: t\
I'll
I.- *
^:.
iw
m
\-:l
358
VOYAHE TO THE rOI-AR SEA.
April
Many frost-bites about tlie face. John Shirley com-
plaininjjf of y)aiii in his ankle and knee was duly treated.
Distance marched eight miles ; made good one and
three quartei-s.
' I nth. — Blowing a north-westerly gale, with the
temperature 35° below zero, and a considerable drift
whicli rendered travelling quite out of the question.
Exti'cme wretchedness and almost abject misery was
our lot to-dav. We derived no heat from our robes,
th<;; / \^ ' . frozen so hard, the tem]:)erature inside oui*
tent being minus 22°. It is rather remarkable that
\\>' Iju''^* thi^. 'I vy experienced, during a gale of wind,
a lower temperature than we have had during any gale
the whole winter, which leads one to the conclusion
that it is evident there can be no open water existing
either to the northward or westward of u>.
' \Qth. — The wind this morning was still blowing
fresh, though it had moderated considerably ; it was,
liowever, so cutting and piercing, and the drift was so
dense, making it almost impossible for us to see our
w^ay through the hummocks, that it was deemed more
]")rudent and advisable to remain encamped, however
un]ileasant and disagreeable such a course was to all
concerned. We unanimously came to the conclu-
sion that it Avas the most wretched and miserable
Easter Sunday that any one of us had ever passed.
Forty-eight houi-s in a bag, in a gale of wind off Ca])e
Joseph Henry, with a tenqierature G7° below freezing
])oint, is not a delightful way of passing the time —
.sleep was almost out of the question. In spite of the
cold we did not omit the usual Saturday night's toast
last evening ; and as it wa.s also the first anniversary of
1876
DETAINED IJY A fJALE.
359
the Ships' comniissioning wogave three cheers ; this was
taken up by the "Victoria," and then we commenced
to cheer eacli other, by way of kee])ing u]) our spirits.
' At live struck the tents and connnenced the
march. Siiirley being unable to walk, we were obliged
to place him on one of tlie sledges, keeping him in his
slee])ing bag, and wi"ai)])ing him well u]) in the cover-
let and lower robe. This increases our "weight to be
di'agged, besides diminishing our strength. Crossed
the floe on which we were encamped, and cut our wny
through Ji hedge of hmnmocks, about one-third of a
mile in breadth, on to another Hoe of apparently great
thickness. These Hoes, although of stujiendous size
regarding their tliickness, are imfortunately for us of
no very great superficial extent, varying only from a
quarter of a mile to a mile in north and south direction.
The recent strong wind, blowing the snow from off
the land to the floes, has made the travelling rather
heavier than it was before. Between some of the
large floes w^e occasionally meet small patches of young-
ice along which the sledges run smoothly ; but, alas !
they are never more than a few yards in extent.
Encamped for the night on a large floe. Men appear-
ing more done u]), after lying so long idle in their bags,
than if they had had a hard day's dragging. Beyond
Cape Parry, which is at present the most distant land
visible to the westward, can be seen two cloud-like
objects that may be Aldrich's " Cooper Key Moun-
tains ; " but again they may be clouds or mirage.
Distance marched seven miles ; made good one and a
quarter.
^llth. — Commenced the march at 11.30 a.m.
i:'
•^')0
ooi
VOYAGE TO THE rOT.Ai; SEA.
A PHIL
Sliirlcy luis jiL^iiiii to ho ])Ut on tlic sledL^c. Portt-r is
rtMulerod /lor.s de ci'trihaf, and is .suflerin;^' a ^^ood deal
of ])aiii. lie is ju.st able to liobble after us. Our force
is uuicli weakened by the loss of these two men. A
beautiful sunny day Avith the temperature as hij/li as
minus 24°. The men are takiui>' kindly to their ironfLdes,
rarely takiiifj; them off whilst on the marcli, and quite
willing to ])ut up with a little inconvenience rather
than be afllicted with snow-blindness. The .'juow
being dee]), we found the travelling on the floes very
heavy indeed; the large boat conies along vciy slowly,
and it is seldom we can advance many ])aces without
resortinu" to " standinjjf inills." Arrived at the edirc of
a broad belt of Innnmocks, through which a road had
to be cut, then on tv a small floe, then through more
lunnmocks, Avhich again had to succumb before the
strenuous exertions of Parr and his luitiring road-
makers ; then more small floes and more lunnmocks,
and so it goes on.
' Some of the floes are thickei' than others, and it is
of no infrequent occurrence that we have to lower the
sledges a distance of six or seven feet from the toj) of
(/ue to the surface of another, or vice versa. After
lunch, George Porter, being imable to walk any far-
ther, had to be carried on the sledsre. This is sad
work ; it makes our ])rogress very slow and tedious.
Distance marched nine miles ; made good one and
a-quarter.
' ISth. — Havinji' made a slioht alteration in our
weights by lessening those on the heavy sledge, we
resumed the march at noon. Shirley has slightly im-
proved, and is able to walk slowly in our rear. So
187(5
NdinilKFIX SLF.DfJE JOUIJNEY.
301
Imrd ^vcM'(' our s]ee|)iiiLr-l);i_L''.s frozen last iii<>ht, tliat the
o])criitioii of <jfottii)i>' into tliciii was positively ])aiiifiil ;
the night, however, was (•oni|)ai"atively warm, and we
slept pretty conifoi'tably. Our travelling dui'ing the
early ])art of the day was aci'oss Hoes of an uneven
surface, and between hunnnocks, through which, how-
ever, there was no necessity of cutting a road; but the
dee]) snow rendered the dragging exceedingly heavy.
These Hoes, or the niajoi'ity of them, are all massed
together, s(pieezed one against the other, but with few
or no hunnnocks l)etween ; vastly diflerent from the
huge ])iled-u]) masses we had to contend with nearer
the shcn-e. After lunch, the descrij)tion of ice over
which we were travelling imderwcnt great change, and
it appeared to us that we had at length arrived on the
veritable " j)al[cocrystic " floes. We seem to have
quite got away from the smooth level floes surrounded
by dense hummocks, and have reached those of gigantic
thickness with a most uneven surface, and covered with
dee]) snow. The travelling has been rough and heavy.
The " Victoria " ca])sized, but Avas quickly righted
without damage to either sledge or boat, and Avithout
even giving the invalid, who was securely wra])])ed
u]) inside the boat, a shaking. The foremost batten of
the "Marco Polo " was also carried awav. A south-
easterly breeze sj)rang u]) at 5 r.M., sending the tem-
perature down shar])ly to minus 33°, and Ave had to
be cautious about frost-bites. Distance marched ten
miles ; made good one mile.
' l^th. — A fine clear day. Our sleeping-bags last
night were rendered a little more habitable from
having been exposed during the day to the heat of the
3(12
VOYA(JK TO 'rill'; 1'0I-AI{ SKA.
A rut I,
v4
I
'^^^i
%
sun, wliicli liiid I ho cflrct of extract iii<: from tlR'in tlie
pvatcr part of the moisture. Tlie hehnet worsted
eai)s so kindly and considerately ])resented to the
E\|)edition by the Emjnvss, are very Avann and com-
fortable for slee])in«j; in, and are much appreciated by
the men, who call them " Enjjfenies."
' Experienced jjfreat dilHculty in <_'ettin}^" from one
floe on to another, some of them bein<;, with the snow
on their surface, as much as ei<iht and nine feet above
the others. After hibouriii},' mid toiling for three and
a-half hoars, "standin<jf ])ulls" nearly the whole tune,
during whicli ])erio(l we liad barely advanced 300
yards, I came to the determination of abandoning the
twenty-foot ice-boat. T. did not arrive at this decision
imtil after very matiu'e dehberation, and from my own
conviction tliat amongst such ice as we were then
encountering, should a disruption occur, the boats
Avould be of little avail to us, except to be used as a
ferry from one floe to anotlier. For this purjiose the
smaller boat will suffice. At 7 p.m. we arrived on
some young ice, between the floes and amongst hum-
mocks, that afforded us ca])ital travelling. On this we
rattled gaily along, accoinjjlishing half a mile in some-
thing like a couple of hours — good wxrk for us.
10.15 P.M. pitched our tents on a regular palajocrj'stic
lloe, having rounded hillocks on its surface from twenty-
live to thirty feet high. Distance marched eight miles ;
made good one mile.
' 2i)th. — In consequence of an impervious fog we
were unable to make a start imtil 2 p.m. Even then
the weathei was so thick that we experienced great
difficulty in making any head-way. Crossing small
1P7«
BOAT ABANDONED.
op o
OM.i
Hoes mid tlir()ii;_'h Imnimocks tliat ii)>|K'iir iiitcnninnhlo.
Snow very <k'i'|) : prosiR'ct iiiiytliiiij^' but ('Iiccriii^', as
Tiotliiii<i- hut liiMmiiocks ciin be .scon. At 8 I'.M. the
AvciitliiT clotiriiijjf shjjflitlv w. siircccMli'd in (.'.\tri('iilin<;
()ursehe« from the hnmniocks, and (•r()ssin<; a h\v<^c
heavy floofroton to a stream of yonn^- ire tliat afforded
118 <rood travelhn<jf for a .sliort (hstance. Tlie more Ave
recede from the hmd, tlie more younjjr iee do wea])])ear
to meet, yet not to such an extent as to be able to
derive nuicli acbanta^^e from its ])resence. Di.stance
marched ei^xlit mik^s ; made good one and-a-half.
Temperature nunus 14°.
' 2 l.v^. — A thick cloudy day, with a cold, piercing
breeze from the northward. During the early part of
the day our road lay over young ice, on which were
some deep snow-drifts, and occasionally ridges of small
hummocks ; but after marching for about a mile our
good ice terminated, and again our troubles com-
menced, or rather continued. Com])elled to deviate
to the eastward of our course in order to avoid a mass
of heavy hummocks, through which it would take days
to cut. Eoad-makers busily em])lo)'ed. After lunch
we were forced to put Shirley on the sledge again in
order to prevent him getting frost-bitten, as he was
imablc to move fast enough to keep himself wiii'.ii
Although the tem])erature is only 17° below zero, the
Avind is so keen and cutting that the cold feels more
intense to-day than on any day since Ave left the ship.
It almost cuts one in tAvo. In consequence Ave halted
an hour earlier than we otherAvise Avould haAe done.
Numerous su]ierlicial frost-bites among the party.
>,■ !
nni
V()V.\<;i; TO Tin: I'olau ska.
A PI! 1 1,
'1'
Tlu'R' ii|)|)('!irs to 1)1' ji iiiiin'i)i(ici'iit !r\('l lloc Jiliciid,
iiiid we pivdict i^ood tnivcllinuf lor tlio morrow.
'►^oiiu' of till' liTCiitc'st ciK'niics tliiit \\v have t
coiitriid with in (')'ossiii«x the \'d]yv floes are tlie iiuiiieroiis
cracks and fissures tiiat racUate in all directions and aic
coiicealedfroni view by a treaclierons covering' of snow.
Into tliese we fre(|uently fall, sinkinjj' up to our waists.
])istance nnirched nine and-a-half niili's ; made nood
two miles.
'22ni/. — Invalids slin;htly improvin^u'. Porter still
has to be carried on a sledue, but Shii'ley, with the
assistani'eof a stall", is able to walk a little. Wind blew
in heavy squtdlslast night, and is blowin;i" fresh from the
north-west this )nornin|L>". Tem])erature minus 17°. Tl
men are an micanny lot to look at — very dirty, faces aiiw
especially noses scarified and disfigured, lips sore and
ti|)s of the fmirers senseless from frost-bite — yet they are
all cheerful and hap])y enough. A dull, cloudy day ; a
thick mist hanginti' over the land, entirely obscuring it
from view. The floes traNclled over to-day are more
level than any we have hitherto crossed, and infinitely
larger, one being quite one mile and three-quarters in
length in a north and south direction and about eiiiht
miles in circumference. This, however, is only a rough
estimate, as it is difficult to judge. The snow is very
deep. These floes ap])ear to have come into contact
with each other in a more amicable manner than those
we have already ])assed, few^ or no hummocks lying
between them. At 9 p.m., the weather coming on
very thick, accomjianied by driving snow, we crossed
some luimmocks, and cam])ed on a level floe. The
wind has been bitterly cold all day, touching np our
1H70
xoinuKiix sLF.nriK .lornxi-.Y
;;ii.)
faces ('(»ii.si(K'i":il)ly. Distance iiiarclu'd nine miles ;
made ;^<>()(| iNvo aiul-a-lialf.
' 2))/v/. — A beaut it'iiUy siinshiiiy day, I)nt misty over
tiie land. Latitude 82° 58' ::]7" N. "Crossed a heavy
lloe Nvitli uuMRTous "hillocks" ou it, hut covered with
deep and soft snow, thiit made it hard work for our
sledires. It a|)|)ears to us that the heavier the lioes
are, the deeper and softei" is the snow on their suiface.
The tem|)ei'ature inside our tent this morning', l)efore
the ('(jverlets were removed, was 20", ii decided im-
provement.
M)ur travelling to-day has been ^ "ly heavy, and
conse([uently our |)ro«fress has been slow ; uuich delay
was caused by having' to cut oui- way through various
belts of luunmocks. Distance marrhed six miles ;
made ^ood one and-a-quarter. Temperature minus
iVI" at midni-iht.
' 24th. — On walkino- to the northern extreme of the
floe ou which we Avere encamped, a dismal prospect
met our view. Enormous luunmocks from twenty to
thirty feet hi<2:h, all squeezed up to<iether Avitli ap-
])areutly no Hoes beyond. Foreseeing that time and
trouble must necessarily be ex|)ended before a road
could be cut throuu'li these obstacles, a uumber of
road-makers, Avith Parr at their head, were advanced,
Avhilst the remainder of the ])arty remained in the
tents. Tills course Avas ado])ted in consequence of a
cold wind that was blowing, in which with the low
temperature it would have been unwise to have kej)t
the men stauding about waiting for the ])ioneers to
complete their work. The hunnno(;ks appeared in-
terminable. From the summit of the loftiest no tloe of
i§
Wi
/
r I
800
^'()YAGE TO THE POLAIJ SEA.
APRIf,
any size could be seen — notliing but an uneven ranije
of shaj)eless masses of ice. By 4 p.m., witli sudi
enerjxy did our road-makers work, a {practicable road,
nearly a mile in leriixtb, was com})leted, and we all
returned to lunch. After tliis was discussed the tents
were struck, and the march resumed. Althoujxh the
keen wind was decidedly unpleasant, by makinjx sail
on the boot, it materially assisted us. Having arrived
at the end of our road, we halted and cam])ed.
Crossed the 83rd parallel of latitude to-day. Porter
was still obliged to be carried, but Shirley was able to
walk after us. Distance marched live miles ; made
good one and-a-half. Temperature minus 26°.
' 25^A. — A bright day, but with a low temperature,
and just sufficient Avind to keep us fully aware, in a by
no means pleasant manner, that we possess noses, or
rather ])ortions of them. The travelling to-day has
been fairly good, we have been able to make a little
more ]>rogress, but the snow remains very deep.
Many of the hummocks j)assed, although smooth and
rounded on the top and on one side, were precipitous
on the other, reseinblinir in a irreat measure the
<n"ounded floebergs in the vicinity of the ' Alert's '
winter quarters.
' 26//<. — Proceeded at noon. Temperature inside
our tent last night as high as 35°, and outside as high
as minus 2°. This is a change for the better. The
drifts are frequently as nnich as twelve feet high, and
it is a regular case of travelling up and down hill.
The Hoes are not of any great extent, but are, notwith-
standing, of enormous thickness. They are separated
from each other, a[)j)arently having no comiection, by
1870
NORTHERN SLEDUE JOURNEY.
;^>C7
streams of liununocks from ton to iifty yards in
breadth. Across these we are compelled to cut a
road ; our chief diflic-ulty, however, is in getting the
sledges from oil' the floe on to our road, and then up
again on to the next floe, so steep and abrupt is the
ascent and descent. Our tents Avere ])itclie(l on the
northern extreme of one of these ])on(lerous Hoes, with
an apparently impassable sea of hummocks extending
north, east, and west as tar as the eye could range. It
looked like the ' end of all things.' Distance marched
six and-a-half miles ; made good one and three-
quarters. The tliermometer when exposed to the sun
this afternoon rose to 7°.
' "11 th. — Parr, with half-a-dozen road-makers,
started to make a road through the hummocks, leaving
the remainder of the party to strike the tents, pack the
sledges, and drag them on one by one. By lunch-time
we had advanced a quarter of a mile. At noon the
latitude was 88° 6' \1" N. Our invalids exhibit no
signs of improvement. Hawkins hatl to be relieved as
nuich as ])ossible from the drag ro])es, and Pearce
sufiers from stiff ankles, although he makes a show of
(lra<z<»in<>\ Both shovels, from constant use, have come
to grief, breaking short off at the liandles, but we suc-
ceeded in 'fishing' them, thus making them service-
able again. At O.oO halted for the night. Men
thoroughly fatigued. Distance marched seven and-
a-half miles ; made good one and-a-quarter. Teni-
])erature mimis 9°.
' 28^A.— A dull cloudy day and snow falling, but
with, for the first time, a temperature above zei'o.
Heavy Innmnocks, deep snow, and thick weather
';H
m
m
r'i,!;
ir
3C8
VOYACJE TO THE POLAR SEA.
Avr.iL
i'.i.,, i'.
M-'i
render our jn-o^'ross slow. Selecliiij^ tlie route is ji
^vork of difficulty, it l)eiuf>' impossible to see uuuiy
yai'ds ahead — above, below, and around being all of
one uniform colour. Had a<>'ain the misfortune to
capsize the sledge and boat on Avhich was Porter ; but
luckily no evil resulted, a slight delay bei' the only
inconvenience. On the surface of a floe cro,j,-!ed during
the evening was a crust of ice about an inch thick
covering the dee]) snow. To oiu' great surjirise, whilst
crossiuix a fringe of hununocks, we observed the tracks
of a hare. They were apparently recent. The little
creature was evidently exhausted, the steps being short
and close together, and travelling in a southerly direc-
tion. These footprints natiu^ally excited our interest,
as we were fully seventeen miles from the nearest land.
Distance marched six miles ; made good one and-a-
ludf
' 29///. — A fine sunny day, but with a sharp wind
from the north-west. Our work to-day has been very
distressing, and we advance but slowly ; small floes
with huge hununocks, and the snow over our knees.
We are often compelled to deviate consiilerably to the
eastward or westward of our coiU"se, in order to make
])rogrcss at all. Occasionally dm'ing the latter part of
the day we were able to avjiil ourselves of a few short
leads of young i(;e that we constantly met twining
round the heavy floes and between the hinnmocks, but
never to such an extent as to profit greatly by them.
Distance marched se\en and-a-half miles ; made good
one and-a-quarter. Temperature at midnight minus 4°.
' 3()/fA. — Shortly after the tents were pitched last
night the wind freshened, the clouds thickened, and
1870
NOIlTriEHX SLEIXJE JorruxEY.
^(iO
snow comnienced fUlliiio- lieavily, (X)iitinuiiig without
iuterniissioM the entire night and all to-day. So thick
is the weather that we are unable to make a move, as
we can scarcely see the length of two sledges ahead.
Surrounded as we are by Inunmocks, it would be folly
to attempt jmshing on. Our patience is sorely ti-ied
enduring this idleness, especially when we consider
how little we have hitherto accomplished, and the
short ])eriod that now remains before we are comjjelled
to retrace our steps. The rest will do no hai-m to the
men.
' May 1st. — A fine bright morning has ushered in
the month of May, to our no small ])leasu]-e. Latitude
83° 10' 30" N. Invalids much the same. Hawkins
totally unfit for duty, and Shirley very weak and
faint. Torter's symptoms a])j)ear to be scorbutic.
After lunch arrived on a large level lioe that afforded
us a good mile and-a-half travelling in the right direc-
tion; the snow less deep on it than on otiier floes,
doubtless on account of its even surftice, which pre-
vents the snow from collecting into drifts by the Avind.
By nine o'clock we Avere envelo])e(l in a thick f(j<.-.
Camjied amongst hunmiocks, with a])p{crent]y nothing
but hunnnocks ahead. Distance marched nhie miles;
made good two and-three-quarters. Tem[)eralure
minus 10°.
' 2n(J — The invalids are not improving, and Ave
are inclined to believe tliat they ai-e all attjicked witli
scurvy, although Ave have not been led to su])pose that
there is any probability of our being so afflicted, and
are ignorant of the symptoms.
' Our strength is rapidly decreasing. A fine dav,
VOL. I. B B
.*'|»3
hT
'i
M
0-Q.
')«
VOYAGK TO THE TOLAll SEA.
May
■11
n'
1 -i'
hut witli ii .s]iar|) north-westerly wind blowing; a thick
mist hjuiLnniJf over the land entirely eoneealing it from
view. So rouuh was oui' road and deep tlie snow-
drifts that we barely advanced half-a-mile l)efore
hmch. The travellinif was no better durini,' the latter
|)art of the day, and we encamjjed on a small iU)e
amidst a i)ile of hunnnocl-cs, tiiorouiifhlv fatiuued and
wejiry. T<iwards ni_i>ht the tem|)erature fell as low iis
niiiuis 17°. Distance marched seven and-a-half miles ;
made
good
one and-a-quarter
' 'Srd. — A dull foL^uT day. The lumnnocks do not
appear to be massed so close touether as tliose we have
been hitely struo-nling with, altiiouuh tliey are equally
larji'e and lieavy. The snow-(h'ifts are sur])risinoly
deei), nnikin<; the drau'uino' very distressinij. On one
occasion the drift was so deep that tlie boat-sled<j:e was
completely buried in it whilst beinu" ])ulled thronu'li,
and we were forced to unload before we succeeded in
extricatin,u' it.
' \ dense fog, but not sufficiently thick to retard
onr prouress altogether, that has ])ersistently hung
o\er us all day, materially increased our labour by
adding to the difficulties of selecting a good route
through the hummocks. Pitched our tents on the
edge of a lioe, not of any great extent, but to arrive
on wliicli we had to make a considerable detour to the
eastward. Distance marched seven and-a-half miles ;
made good one and-a-quarter.
' 4t/i. — Snow falling thick and last. Invalids tlie
reveise of imj)roving. Francombe so batl that he is
obliged to be put on a sledge. More of the men are
conq)huning of stiffness and pain in their legs, wliich,
1S70
XORTIIERX ST.EDGE JOURNEY.
■)l 1
we fear, are only the ]H-ein()nitory syniptoms. After
udvancing for about halt'-a-inile, which chstaiice took
us nearly four houi-s to accomplish, we arrived at such
a confused hea]) of huinino(;ks that in the thick state of
the weather i-endered a farthei- advance impossihle.
We were therefore compelled to halt and pitch the
tents. After lunch, the weather clearin,^^ slioJitly, we
pushed on with a strong jmrty of labourers, and" suc-
ceeded in making n very lair road three-quarters of a
uiile in length. The hunnnocks appeared interminable ;
the floes small, not more tlian lifty to one hundrecl
yards across. A line of discoloured hunnnocks ex-
tended for some distance along the (.nh^e of one of the
floes; on examination the discolounition was found to
be caused by the adherence of nuid or clav. It looked
as if the side of the floe had been rubbed against, or in
some manner come into contact witli, the sliore.' Dis-
tance made good a quarter of a mile. Temperature
at noon 4°.
' 5//i._A (hill foggy day, and snow falling. Ad-
vanced with one sledge, leaving one tent ])itche(l and
the invalids inside. Arriving at the termination of our
made road of yesterday, the otlier tent was ])itc]ied,
and we returned to bi-ing up anotlier sledge, and so oii
until the whole camj) was advanced. The weather
remaining thick, all farther progress was quite out of
the question, and, much as we all disliked the forced
inactivity, we were com|)elle(l to remain in our bags
for the remainder of the day. A dreary scene sur-
rounded us; a cold, desolate, and inhospitable-lookin-r
scene. Everything of the same uniform colour^
nothing to relieve the eye ; nothing but one sombrous,'
It 11 2
S-l;:!!!
'I
Ji
») 7 •)
VOYA(iE TO THE POI.AU SEA.
May
I, 'W
iinovcn, aiul invjxnlar sea of snow and ice. The tem-
])erature lias been about zero all day. Distance
marched four miles; made j^ood three-quarters of a
mile.
' ^th. — A hue l)ri_L>"ht sunshiny day. Latitude
80° 10' oG" N. Our sick men are evidently not improv-
inji;; three have now to be carried on the sledues. We
a|)])ear to have ai'rived at a ])erfect barrier of hum-
mocks juid portions of Hoes, all broken and squeezed
lip, and covered with deej) snow. It is ])ossible we
may be able to penetrate these obstacles, eventually
]'ea(;hin«>' larger and more level floes, on which Ave may
be able to make uiore rapid ])ro<iress. We ascended
one lar<>e hunnnock, from the sunnnit of which the
])rospect was anj'thing but encouraging — nothing but
one vast illimitable sea of hummocks. The height of
this hummock was ascertained by means of a lead line,
and was found to be from its summit to the surface of
the snow at its base forty-three feet three inches. It
did not a])j)ear to be a Hoeberg, but a mass of hum-
mocks squeezed uj) and cemented together bj' several
layers -of snow, making it resemble one huge solid
])iece. Although the sun has been very warm all day,
the tcmjjerature has been down to minus 11°. Dis-
tance marched six miles ; made good one mile.
' "ith. — We had S(,'arcely advanced a cou])le of
hundred yards with one sledge, " standing i)ull8 " the
Avhole distance, tlie ])i'os[)ect ahead being heavy hum-
mocks and dee]) snow-drifts, Avhen it became ])ainfully
evident that neither Pearce nor Shirley were able to
walk. Under these distressing circumstances there was
nothinij to be done but to advance with one sled'^e.
1876
NoirniEiJx 8],Ei)(ii: jouknjiy.
373
unload it, letiim uith it eiii])ty, and tlien l)rinfr on the
remainder of the o-far and invalids. The snoAv being-
very deep, the contimial Avalkinn- backwards and for-
wards is very fatigninn- to the men ; they find it easier
to drag a sledo-e throuo-h the dee]) snow than to walk
without the su])])0]t of the drag belt. Distance made
good 51 quarter of a mile. Tem|)erature minus 9°.
' S^A. — The interiors of onr tents in the evening
have more the a])i)earan('e of hospitals than the
habitations of strong Morking-men. In addition to the
" cri])i)les," four men belonging to the "Marco Folo "
are suffering from snow-blindness, although in a mild
form. At noon started all available hands under Parr,
with ])ick and sho\el road-making, as we are desirous
of ascertaining if this a])i)arently interminable line of
hununocks is of great extent. To solve this is all we
can now ex])ect to do. A bright Avarm day. Aired
and dried all tent gear, &c. Walked on with Tarr
towards the end of the day about a mile to the north-
ward, selecting a route for the sleugcs. At our farther-
most point from the summit of a high hummock we
saw, about tAVo or three degrees to the uortliAvard of
Cape Aldrich, either land or the loom of it. The hum-
mocks around us are of diffei-ent heigJits and bulk,
varying from small fragments of ice to huge piles over
forty feet high.
' dth.~We have at length arrived at the conclusion,
although Avith a great deal of i-eluctance, that our sick
men are really suffering from scurvy, and that in no
mild form. Should our surmise be correct, Ave can
scarcely expect to see any of the afflicted ones improve
until they can be supplied Avitli fresh meat and veoc-
iVv
^1
374
VOYAfiE TO THE TOEAR 8EA.
May
h
i» 1^
.1 y
i)
lablL's. \\\' arc unwilling for the men to siis[)ect that
they are really sufreriiig from this terrible disea.se, but
at the same time are issuini; to those attJieked a small
(quantity out of the very little limejuice we brought
away with us. It is given to them in lieu of their
grog, as being a better l)l()od-])uriiier. We have only
two bottles on each sledge of this excellent anti-scor-
butic. It is another beautifully wai'm sunnv day, with
the tem])ei'ature only a degree or two below zei'o.
Made ti start at half-|)ast twelve by advancing with
one sledge with half its load aud two invalids u|Joii it.
This was dragged U]) to the extreme of yesterday's
road-making, a distance of three-quarters of a mile,
Avhen the tent was ])itched, the invalids ])laced inside,
and the sledge taken back, again loaded, and again
advanced with two more invalids ; the men returning
and bringing up the other two sledges, with the re-
uiainder of the u'ear iind the fifth invalid, one at a
time. It was ])ast eight o'clock before the last sledge
arrived, and though avc had only made good three-
quarters of a mile, so tortuous was our road, winding
round ;uid about the hunnnocks, that to accomplish
this distance we marched between six and seven miles
through very deej) snow\ After the tents were pitched,
a. party of road-makers were advanced to pre[)are a
road throuuh the hunnnocks.
' lO^A. — There was a slight tail of snow during
the day, when the tem])erature rose to 15°. Distance
uiade good three-quarters of a mile.
' After veiy serious consideration, I have arrived at
the conclusion, thougli sorely against my inclination,
that tins must be our most northern camp. With five
1^J70
NOinJIKliN .SLEDUK .KXIJNKY.
875
nut ol' our littlt' force totally ])rostnite, nud four olliors
exhibiting' decided syni))toins of the siime complaint, if
Avould be folly to ])ersist in |)ushinir on. In addition
to which the ^ureater half of our |)rovision.s have been
ex])ende(l. To-inoiTow will be our fortieth day out ;
only thirty-one days" full allowjnice of provisions
remain, so that jmidence and discretion unite airainst
our own desire of advancin;i, and counsel a return.
A coui])lete rest to the invidids of a cc)U])le of days
may be jmxluctive of uuich <jfood, durinjj: which time
we may be usefully euL^awd in uiakinuf observations in
various iiitei'estin<jf uiatters. With this we nuist be
content, havini*' failed .so hnnentably in attaining a high
northern latitude. It is a bitter ending to all our
aspirations.
' 11th. — As it was desirable to benefit by the heat
of the day during the time we were em])loyed making
our observations, breakfast was ready at h{df-])ast
eight. Innnediately after, the men were set to work
to cut a hole throuLdi some young ice that lay between
the hummocks bordering our floe. This they Jiccom-
])lished in three hours, the thickness of the ice being
sixty-four inches. With a hundred-fathom line, we
sounded to ascertain the de])th of water, and to our
great surprise obtained soundings in seventy two
fathoms, the bottom (-onsisting of clay. Arming the
lead, and a])pending to it vai'ious other contrivances
for the ])ur])Ose of collecting a s[)ecimen of the nature
of the bottom, we succeeded in obtaining a small
quantity, whicli has been cai'efully preserved in a
small bottle for conveyance to the shij). Tlie hardness
of the substance prevented a large ^u]>]ily being ob-
870
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
Mat
A
tniiicd. A ."^erios of teiiiporaturcs wiis iwkon at every
ten fiithoDis from tlie .surface ; the teiii))erature be-
tween tlie surface and a cleptli of twenty fatlionis Ix'in;^
28°'5, and tliat between tliirty fatlionis and tlie bottom
in seventy-two fatlionis bein;,' 28°'8.'
The s])ecific ji'i'avity of the surface-water as after-
wards ascertained by Dr. Moss was, at a tcnijierature
of (i()°, 1-0240 and 1 -0241 ; staiKhird water at 39°
equal unity.
'Tidal action was a])j)arent, but with the rou<>;h
a])i)liances at our disposal it was ini])ossil)le to make
any accurate observations re<i'ai'din<^' it, the set beinj>',
as near as we could jud^'e, N.W. and S.E. Imjirovisino;
a dredge, and baiting' it with the scrapings of our
jiannikins, c^'c, it was lowered down the hole, and f)n
being hauled u]) after remaining some hours at the
bottom, was found to be literally swarming with small
crustaceans, ap])arently of two different kinds. Several
specimens of these Avere collected, and ])laced in spirits
of wine for jn-cservation. Hooks Avere baited and
attem])ts made to catch fish, but Avithoiit success.
Took a coni])lete double series of magnetic observa-
tions for inclination and total force.
'■ VltJi. — Breakfasted at 8.30, immediately after
which, leaving the cooks behind at the camp to attend
U])on the invalids, the remainder of the party carrying
the sextant and artificial horizon, and also the sledge
banners and colours, started northwards. We had
some very severe walking, struggling through snow n]i
to our waists, over or tlirough which the labour of
dragging a sledge Avould be interminable, and occa-
sionally almost disappearing through cracks and fissures.
isrn
L'KAC r THK fllflllKST L.\TITUJ)i:.
377
until twenty niinutos to noon, wIumi a Imlt was ciillcd.
The artiliciiil liorizon was tluMi set np, and the fhit,'s
and banners (hs))hi yed ; these flnttered ont bravely
])efore a fresh S.W. wind, which latter, however, was
decidedly cold and nn])leasant. At noon we obtained
u <iood altitnde, and ])roclaiine(l our latitnde to be
S?° 20' 20" N., exactly 3991, miles from the North
Pole. On this bein^" dnly annonnced tlu'ee cheers
■were ^iven, with one moi-e for Ca|)tain Xares ; then
the whole l)ai'ty, in the exnberance of their s])irits at
havinj^f reached their tnrnin^ ])oint, sang the "Union
Jack of Old En;j;land," the " Grand Palaaocrystic
Sleduinjjf Chorns," windin<)f u]), like loyal snbjects, with
" God save tlie Queen." These little demonstrations
had the effect of cheei'inu' the men, who nevertheless
enjoy j^^ood s|)irits. The instruments were then packed,
the colours furled, and our steps retraced to the camp.
On arrival the flag's were hoisted on our tents and
sledges and kept flying for the remainder of the day
A magnum of whisky that had been sent by the Dejin
of Dundee, for the ex[)ress purpose of being consumed
in the highest northern latitude, was ])roduced, and a
glass of oTog served out to all. It is needless to add
his kindness was thoroughly ap])reciated, nor was he
forgotten in the toast of ' absent friends.'
' We all enjoj'ed our supper, for we had the hare
shot by Dr. Moss at De])6t Point, equally divided
between oiu' two tents, cooked in oiu' allowance of
])emmican, making the latter imconnnonly good and
savoury. After supper a cigar, presented to us by
May before leaving the ship, was issued to each man,
and the day was brought to a close with songs, even
' *^i
m
'iHill
378
M)VA(iK TO TIIK TOLA I! SI! A.
Mat
1:1
llic iiiviilids joining in. All .-cenicd liii|)i)y, clict'rt'ul,
and coiitcntc'd.
' V6t/i--A I'rcsli hrcozc frnm tlio noi'tli-west and
mncli snow-drift. Our outwai'd-hound tracks nearly
obliterati'd. The invalids a|)|)('ar no JK'ttt'i- lor their
long rest, l^tarted with two sledges, leaving the tents
])it('hed and the sick inside, and conuncnced uur march
to the southward.
'Having advanced the two sledges for some dis-
tance, they were un])acked and dragged back to cam])
empty. The tents were then struck, and ])utting two
invalids on each of the small sledges, and one in the
boat on the large sledge, again advanced by short
stages, dragging the lighter ones single-banked, six
hands to each, tlie whole ])arty returning to drag the
heavy one. As this will be our future mode of
travelling, no further reference will be made regarding
the details of our order of marching, unless an altera-
tion occurs. Distance made good one mile and-a-
quarter.
' 14^A. — A dull, cloudy day. Sky and ground,
from the equal difl'usion of light, a])])ear to be the
same; and although dai'k o])jects ai'e readily dis-
tinguishable at some distance, it is im])ossible t* see
many yards ahead : this makes following ' i road
a task of much didiculty. A hunnnock ]>. d yester-
day, although c()m})osed of one ])iece of ice, was of
two diflerent colom-s, a deej) blue and a ])ale yellow,
the two colours iiradiially blendini>' one into the other
without exhibiting any definite line of demarcation.
The yellow colour Avas doubtless due to the presence
of diatomacetc. It is a oiuious fact, that for the last
!i
1876
MAIJKIIAMS I:i;T11!N JOI'IJNKY
;uo
Mvvk or ten djiys mir iippctiti's liiivc lu'cii (Iccri'iisiii^'
ill j» iMiir\('ll()iis milliner. For the first lliivi' wcciss
iifk'r k'uviii^f the slii|) tlie niiijority of us wiTc iK'i't'ectly
ravenous, and could easily at sii])|)er-tinie have devoured
an extra pannikin full ofpeniinican. Now we are seldom
able to consume what is served out to us, although
little more than hall" the allowance is cooked. It is
with jfi-eat dilliculty the patients can be induced to eat
anythin;^", their mouths beinj.' too tender to eat the
biscuits, although well soaked. Distance made good
one mile. Temperature 11".
' Ibth. — A fine day, but uiistv over the land. A
sharj) south-easterly breeze, and a t('ni])erature at 0°
touches us u]) unj)leasautly about the face. We are
still following uj) our old road, and devoutly trust we
shall be able to adhere to it the entire distance — to
make a new road will cause much detention. Distance
made good one mile and a half.
' IQth. — Our appetites are still on tlie decline, and
to rather an alarming degree. At bix-akfast to-day, in
one tent, scarcely u ])annikin full of ])emmican was
consumed by the whole party. On the other hand we
.seem to be assailed by an uiupienchable thirst, that
can only !)e alleviated at meal-times, as we are nnable
to spare fuel to make extra water. Distance made
good one mile and a half. Tem])erature 4°.
* 11th. — A beautifuliA' sunny day, with a li<iiit breeze
from the N.E. The smi was so powerful as t<3 cause
the temperature to I'ise inside our tent aftei' su})j)er to
50°, whilst all our foot-gear, &c., which was left outside
when we retired, was ])erfectly diy when ])ut on befoi'e
breakfast. After serious thought Ave have resolved.
!!i/i
.380
voYAfiK TO 'hik ror.AiJ ska.
Mat
'm
l/'M
I
1
il
m
ii
slioiild niiy more men be comjjelled to full out from
the drag ropes, iij)o)i ahaiidoiiing the boat. We look
ii])ou it as ji (hrnier re.s:<ort, but an im])erative
necessity. If any uiore uieu are attacked our only
ehauee of reachiuo- the shore, before our provisions are
expended, ^vill be by liuthteniuix our sledjies as uuich
as ])()ssible, and the first thin<>' to be discarded must
be the boat. We must take our chance of the ice
remaining- stationary, and hope that no (iisru])tion will
take j)lace before we <:ain tlie shore. The first \)i\rt of
the day "vvas occu|)ied in drajiuinu* the sledges over our
roui>h road through the hunnnocks, but at lenirth we
arrived on our old friend the larijfe floe, over which we
made good travelling. The time and trouble ilevoted
to uiaking a road during our outward journey is m)W
am])ly comijousated for.
' " Old Joe," as the uien irreverently term Ca])e
Jose[)h Henry, is looming larger and darker, and
M(;^unt Pullen was seen to-day for the first time for
some days. Again, strange to say, have we come
across the tracks of a hare, being fully twenty-tlu'ee
uiiles from the land. The traces were almost too ui-
distinct to determine the direction in which the little
animal \vas travelling, but it ap])eared to be going to
the northward, and was, like the one observed on our
outward joiu^ney, evidently worn out and tired, the
footsteps being short. Distance made go(.)d two miles
and-a-quarter.
' 18^A. — The sun is very powerful, and thaws and
dries everything that may ha])])en to be exposed to it
resting on a dark substance. The snow on the floes is
not yet in a)iy way affected by its influence.
m
1870
MAIIKIIAMS IJETUIIX JOURNin'.
381
'Our siiijill modicum of limojuice is nearly all
expended, ulthoiio-h it Ims been most carefully" hus-
baiided, and only issued to the sick every other day.
'The travellino- to-day has been very heavy, the
road beino- rouo-h and the snow deep. On account of
the thick weather we had .^i-eat dilFiculty in adherino-
to the ol<l track, and on several occasions the sledge'^
had to be lialted until the ti-aii was jMcked up on tlie
o])l)osite side of the iloe anicngst the hummocks.
' Ominous sinus, ])redictin<r a movement of the ice,
Avere visible. A crack in some youno- ice ],ad ])er-
ceptibly oi)ened since we i)asse'l over it three weeks
ago, and layei-s or flakes of ice fi-t)m one to three
inches in thickness were squeezed up along the crack.
Not 200 yards from this rent a large portion of ti
lunmnock situated at the extreme end of a fioe had
lost its equilibrium and toppled over; from the marks
left in the snow tJiis must have occurred quite recently.
These movements may be attributed to . slight tidal
motion, but it is a warning for us to get oif the pack
as quickly as i)ossible. Distance made good one mile
and-u-half.
'1<)M._A thick overcast day, with snow falling
heavily. Travelling very i-ough, jolting the invalids
considerably. Passed two moi-e cracks in the ice that
have ojiened a great deal since they were ci-ossed on
our outward .journey. One of these was the openino-
between two large floes, conclusive evidence that one
or other, or both, had been in motion. At 10 p.m.
the fog hfted, aind the sun shone clear and bi-io-ht, but
shortly after midnight a dense fog rolled down frou)
the northward, in which we were comi)letely enveloped
i
m
Ml"
.1 liil
^82
VOYAGE TO THE rOL.VIl SEA.
Mav
K':' i
(luriiijj^ the remaiiidor of the day. A thick mist or
sleet also prevailed tliat actually wetted us. Distance
made <2;ood one mile aml-three-(iuaiters.
' 'iO/A. — Temjierature 20°, a thiclv fo<rjL;y day
making it extremely difficult to keep to the road.
We nuist endeavour to adliere to it at all hazards.
' Tiie hummocks have been deprived of a great
deal of tlieir niveous covering since we last passed
tliem, and have lost in a o-reat measure their resem-
blance to tlie tops of wedding cakes, and are instead
fringed with long icicles, giving tliem a picturesque
and tairy-like appearance. Distance made good one
mile and-three-quarters.
' 21. si — A foggy overcast day, and snow falling
more or less the whole time. So difficult was it to
adhere to the old track that on several occasions the
slediies had to be halted for a considerable time,
whilst the officers ])ushed on ahead to the opposite
end of tlie floe, and tliere branching off, one to the east-
ward, the other to the westward, discovered, by skirting
along the line of hunnnocks fringing the edge of the
floe, tlie old cutting through. Tliis accom])lis]ied, they
would return to assist in dragging the sledges up.
The continual strain to tlie eyes is also most trying.
All the party are more or less suffering from stiffness
and aching bones. Distance made good one mile and-
three-quarters.
' 'I'liul. — After the tents were ])itclied last night
the temperature rose as liigh as o3°, and inside tlie
tent was as much as Gl°. Another dull, overcast day.
Several times did we wander off the track, and tlien,
when found, were com[)elled to drag the sledges ba(;k
187(}
M.^UKriAM'S RETURX JOURNEY,
383
to get on the trail a<,niiii. Floundered throu«rli .some
deej) snow-drifts, and passed some enormous lium-
mocks.
'T]ie ]iei<v]it of one of tlie latter that we ascended
was estimated at over lifty feet—the pocket aueroid
determined its heio-ht to be a little over that measure-
ment. It appeared to be a fioeber<,^ hut was so dis-
lifuised by its thick coverin,<r of snow that we could
only form a conjecture. It was on one side nearly
l)reci])it()us, and was surrounded by a number of small
hummocks and broken floe-pieces. The temperature
is so hiu-h now that tlie men ,<ret terribly heated whilst
draggino-, but during a halt, even for a shoil time,
they soon get thoroughly chilled. Distance made
good one mile.
'23?Y/._The weather still continues dull and
cloudy, but not quite so thick and overcast as it has
been for the last few days. We can just discern a
portionofCa])e Joseph Henry and Conical Hill looming
through the mist. The travelling to-day has been
fairly easy, although the snow^ has been" Aery deep
in^ places. Collecu'd for analysis some specimens
of dis(,'oloured ice fi-om two separate hmmiiocks, of
a yellowish and brown hue respectively. Distance
made good one mile and-three-quarters.
' 24M,._A l)right sunny day enabled us to follow
our tracks witli ease. Tlie land is plainly visible.
We seem to have neai-ed it considerably since we last
obtained a good glimpse of it. Several dark patches
on the liills give undoubted indications of returning
Nunnner, whilst the sides of Joseph Henry are almost
destitute of snow. The fore part of the day we
I
> if
ill
;584
voYArji-: TO THE i'olar sea.
^Fav
were enjjfa'jed stni<x<j^liii<jf tlirou<jfli a \o\m line of luiiii-
mocks, Jitter einer<ji"in<j from wliicli the travelling' be-
came c()m])aratively good, and we made fair i)rogress.
Being the Queen's birthday, the colours were dis])layed
at lunc;h time, the " main brace " spliced, and ller
Majesty's health drunk by her most northern, though
not the less loyal sid)je(!ts.
' 25#A. — The line weather of yesterday was too
good to last. To-day there is a great change. Heavy
lowering clouds hang all around — a dull and dismal
day with a sharj) keeri wind from the S.W. (ii'eat
difficulty in kee[)iiig to the track ; several times Ave lost
it, and did not succeed in picking it up again without
expending nuich time and trouble. Travelling over
an extensive floe, but with deep snow, with numerous
hard snow ridges and liillocks, that made tlie operation
of dragging the sledges up very laborious, Avhilst the
coming down was just as bad, as the "crip])les" had
scarcely time to junq) on one side befoi-e the sledge was
on the top of them. Ferbrache a])pears very bad, but
pluckily sticks to the drag ropes ; not, poor fellow,
that he is of much use there, Jis he can hardly kee])
pace with us, nuich less pull ; it serves, however, as a
support to him. llawlings and Simpson are not nuich
better. Out of thirty-four legs in the whole party we
can only nuister eleven good ones — even some of these
are shaky. Distance made good one mile and-a-half.
' 26th. — Blowing a strong S.W. gale, accom])anied
by a heavy fall of snow and a dense snow-drift. Called
the cooks and had breai<fast, holding ouvselves in
readiness for a start should weather ])ermit. In tliis,
however, we were grievously disa[)pointed and were
i
187C)
SKCOXl) Ji(.)AT AHANDOXEl).
as.-)
lU'h
over
3rous
at ion
L the
luul
was
but
low,
veep
as a
micli
; we
liese
alF.
■lined
ailed
s in
this,
were
a^ain doomed to a day of forced idleness. To pack the
sledges and ])lace the invalids on tlieni without their
beinji; almost buried in tlie blinding snow-drift was
quite out of the question, and even if tliere was a
chance of advancing it was impossible to see a sledge's
length aliead. This delay causes us great anxiety, as
every day, every hour, is of inq)ortance to us, as we
know not when we may, one and tdl, be attacked and
rendered useless for further work.
' 21th. — Wind having moderated, we made a start,
the weather remaining thick and gloomy. Tlie large
quantity of snow that has fallen renders tlie travelling
very heavy, in addition to wliich tlie high temperature,
causing a ])artial tliaw, has made the snow assume a
sludgy consistency, which clings tenaciously to our legs
and sledge-runners, making the dragging very laboriouo.
The men are no better for their rest of yesterday,
indeed may be said to be worse ; tlie only two men
at present scatheless, with the excejjtion of the officers,
beinsjj Eadmore and Maskell. This diminution of our
force was an event which we were quite jirepared for,
therefore preparations were made for abandoning the
boat and all superfluous weights. Our object now
must be to reach the shore as s})eedily as possible.
'Left the boat as cons])icuous as ])ossible, adojiting
the same means as we did on the ])revious occasion,
and depositing a record in a tin cylinder stating the
a])proxiinate ])ositioii of the lloe and our reasons for
deserting the boat. Tem[)erature 22°. Distance made
ijood one mile.
' Our api)etites are still on the wane ; scarcely more
tlian half a ])annikin of ])enimican is consumed by any
VOL. I, c: c
^i
iiiiti
i\SC>
VOYAGE TO THE POLAR SEA.
May
one individual at any meal ; some go without altogether,
and these latter in consequence are not allowed to
smoke or to have their grog. As we possess a sur})lus
of bacon, tliis is issued, in addition to tlie pennnican,
to those who Avish it.
' 28th. — Yesterday, a bird was seen by a few of the
sick men who were remaining by the advanced sledges
whilst the ])arty was returning for tlie heavy sledge,
which from their description appears to have been a
turnstone. The weather cleared up slightly after
lunch, and tlie sun made vain efforts to pierce the
clouds and nuu'ky atmos])here, and the land was
occasionally seen. Travelling across tlie heavy Hoes
and the young ice, over wliich we journeyed on the
21st ult., the snow-drifts are far deeper and more
frequent now tlian then ; pools of water were form-
ing between the snow-drifts, and a large quantity of
sludge was encountered, that nuule tlie travelling
very disagreeable. These pools of water were all
brackish.
' Shortly before the tents were pitched, much ex-
citement was caused by the appearance of a little snow-
bunting, wliich fluttered aroimd us for a short time,
uttering its to us rather sweet chirp, and then flew
away to the northward and westward, in the direction
of Cape Jose])li Henry. This was an event of no small
interest to our party, as it was the first bird seen by the
majority for a jieriod of nine months ; even the sick
men on the sledges requested they might have their
heads uncovered and lifted, so as to obtain a gli)n})se
of the little warbler. Distance made good two miles.
' 29M. A glorious day. with the sun shiniiiL'
May
igether,
»\ved to
sur})lus
ninican,
V of the
sledges
' sledge,
been «a
[y after
rce the
lid was
vy floes
1 on the
id more
•e form-
iiitity of
'avelling
^vere all
Luch ex-
,le siiow-
)rt time,
leu flew
ilirectioii
no small
n by the
the sick
five their
L gli'iipse
miles,
shininir
iH-fi
MAHKHAM'S KETUIiX JOUKNey.
i
t
;^87
bri^'htly wliicli we appreciate the n.ore as we Ji.ve
been so long deprived of its prese.uv. The t npt .
ure, however, is as low as^^ At lunch ZX
<-o^om. were again displayed and the 'niain brae'
« Phced, to comnie,norate the first anniversary of onr
departure rom England. Got on to a heavy floe'n
^- hich we had left our 20-foot ice-boat on L Tot
ot Apnl, and pitched our tents alongside the boa
Found her exactly as she had been left, but sur ound I
by an embankment of snow Di.fo . ^^i""i<-('
two miles. '''^''^"' "^'^^^^ ^^««^'
' SOth Our usual weatJier has re turned ->thick fo-
Hud snow alhng. Before luncii a strong bree.e „
up frojn the N.W., which quickly fVesh^;..! h^I^!^
^^ale of wmd This with a dense snow-drift count I led
us to halt and pitch our tents on the southern ed<.e o^.
large floe, havn.g con.pletely lost our track. Walked
with P.^T or a long distance along tlie frkte o
Immmocks skirting tlie floe, bnt failed to chscover our
oldciit.i^,.ough. Distance made good one nl
' 3l.A_^Strnck camp, and started at 8 p.m.; Parr and
myself hav-ing previously walked on to enlea our
in^ the old route, which we luckily .ucceededrdi;;
being, a. we anticipated, more than half-a-mile to the
westwanlo, Crosse<l a fringe of hunnnocC wh !^
1-1 evident y been in motion sinc-e w. passed tlei o
our outward journey; but what was still more alarm
mg, whilst dragging the sledges over a small. patd of
yonng ice the heavy sledge broke through, and we lad
u<> h tie trouble hi saving it fKmi a con,:ie;e in. j:^
wJncli might have resulted seriously to one of the u '
c; c
;i88
V()YA(}E TO TIIK POLAH SKA.
Juxi:
fortunato invalids wlio was socuroly laslied on the to]).
As it was, the wlvole of the rear j)art of the sledge was
innnersed in the water. The thickness of this ice was
only three or four inches. The wind freshening into a
strong gale, and blowing n|)on us with all its fury,
j)reclude(l any farther advance, a,nd necessitated a halt
at 3.15 A.M., we being then unable to distinLruish more
than a cou])le of sledges' length ahead. We were all
wet through, and very wretched and ui. comfortable,
the falling snow and drift thawing on our clothes a.s
quickly as it fell. Distance made good half-a-mile.
' June l,st. — The wind subsided considerably durin«^
the ght, although the weather remained thick, and
snow and wind squalls Avere ])revaleut. Our old
track is completely obliterated, and it is only occasion-
ally by seeing evidences of our former joiuMiey, such
as bits of tobacco, tin pots, &c., that we know we
are still adhering to it. Travelli'ig altogether very
heavy. Snow in places up to oiu' waists, and very
wet between the hunmiocks, our foot-gear being
literally soaking. Distance made good two miles.
Temperatiu'e 34°.
^2nd. — A sad list of sick this morning. Eawlings
and Simpson completely done up, and utterly incapable
of further work. It is marvellous how they have ke]3t
on so long. Lawrence is also attacked in his arms as
well as his legs. We are now reduced to only six
men, and they anything but healthy or strong, and tw^o
officers. • Five men are carried on the sledges, and four
can just manage to crawd after. Our routine is first to
advance the heavy sledge, wdiicli is dragged by the
whole available party, namely, eight ; then return and
ic to]).
<xe was
•e was
into a.
^ fury,
a halt
li more
,'ere all
)rtable,
tlies as
nile.
during
ck, and
ur old
jcasion-
■y, such
ow we
'r very
id very
■ being
I miles.
'awlings
[capable
Lve ke])t
arms as
only six
and two
md four
s first to
by the
urn and
:'
]f<7(\
MAIIKIIAM'S KKTUIJN JOURNEY.
.*i8U
bring up the other two sledges, single banked, four
dragging each.
' Tlie weather has at last proved triumphant, and
lias robbed us of our road. The track was lost,
despite our utmost efforts to adhere to it, shortly before
lunch, and Ave have now to renew the arduous task of
road-making. Unless the weather clears sufficiently to
enable us again to pick uj) our track, our intention is
to make straight for the laud in the direction of the
Snow Valley. Camjied on a small floe comj)letely
surrounded by hummocks, through which we had to
cut our way. Distance made good one mile and three-
quarters.
' o7'd. — Parr and myself started at 7-45 r.M. to
select a route, leaving a ])arty of three road-makers to
follow and cut a road in our footsteps, the renin ining
three to strike the tents and ])ack the sledges. Our
way lay entirely through hui unlocks with no appear-
ance of a floe of any dimensions. The road bcintr
completed, the sledges were advanced until more
hummocks were encountered, when the same system
was adopted. It was very hard work. At 5 a.m. we
succeeded in reaching a magnilicent floe, on which we
cam])ed. Distance made good one mile and a-half.
' ith. — Shortly after starting we were again
enveloped in a, dense fog, through which the sun
made ineffectual efforts to penetrate. Arriving at the
edge of the large floe, we had to cut through a long
fringe of hummocks ; then winding about amongst
snow-drifts and young i(;e, tlirough dee]7 sludge,
emerging on a small floe, on wdiich we halted for
lunch. A skua flying lazily about, apparently steei'ing
Ill
ill
auo
VOYAfJl': TO TIIIC POLAU SKA.
.hxK
^
:'l
ill 51 north-west dirortioii, or towards Conical Hill,
excited n ijfood deal of interest.
'Leuvinj^ tlie road-makers to follow in onr track.
Parr and myself ])uslied on for the shore, which wjis
reached in about half-an-hour. We here observed the
recent traces of a doij-sledn-e and hunnin footsteps.
Observed the tracks and heard the howlinjjj of a
wolf, but did not succeed in seeing it. On reaching
the dejjot we learned to our disa|)])ointment that
the Ca])tain, May, and Feilden had only left for the
ship the ])revious day. This was very unfortunate.
Twenty-four hours earlier and we should have met
them. They hatl obtained three hares, which they
kindly cached in a crevice formed between two hum-
mocks for our use. Takin<f our letters, and cariyino-
the hares, we retuiMied to our party ; and the road
bein<>* c()m])leted, the sled<;os were drap:<;ed throu<fh,
and the tents pitched for the ni<;ht on a small ])iece of
ice about oOO yards from the sliore.
' hth. — A beautifully brii>ht clear day. To see the
sun a<>'ain in all its glory is indeed a treat ; it seems to
invigorate us all, and ajipears even to instil new life
and energy into the invalids. Our su]')])cr last night
consisted of a hare to each tent, which was mucli
relished and will doubtless do good. By eleven we
were all once moi'e on ft'i-ra Jirma, after an absence of
over two months.
' A strong south-westei'ly gale sprang up just before
halting for lunch, which did iiot add to the comfort of
our meal ; had excessively hard work in dragging the
sledges through the deep snow on the incline of
the hill ; blowing very hard, the s(pialls exceedingly
1H7(
/l>
rnJACII TIIK DKl'OT.
:m
imicb
ol
viok'iit with ii l)liii(liiiL>' snow-drift. Halted uiid ('jim[)ed
abreast of the depot.
' 0///. — Wind moderated during' tlie iii;^dit, but not
before it liad nearly blown our tent down ; one of the^
bow lines gave way, and a tent jjole .started, and we
were nionientarily exj)e('tin<4' to have our house down
about our ears. Fortunately for us it resisted all
eflbi'ts.
' During the latter ])art of the day, to our jjfreat
surprise, one of our Eskimo dojjfs was .seen threading
her way slowly through the hunnnocks ; on being
('idled .she apjn'oached somewhat timidly, but ate
ravenou.sly of .some pemmiean tliat was tlu'owu to her.
Poor Flo ! sh(! is wretcliedly thin and emaciated ; she
nui.st have e.scaped from the Ca])tain's dog-team.
After a long eonsultation with Parr it has been re-
.solved that he .shall proceed to-morrow morning, if
fine, and walk to the .ship. Our oidy chance of saving
life is by receiving succour as .soon as ])ossible.
Although the distance from us to the .ship is nearlj''
thirty miles, over iloes covered with dee]) snow, and
girt by heavy hunnnocks, he has nobly volunteered to
attem])t it, and has confidence in being able to accom-
])lish it. He is the only one of the ])arty .strong
enough to undertake such a mandi, and we all have
the utmost confidence in his judgment iind ability to
])erform it.
'■7th. — A bright sumiydiiy; the sun so ])owerful,
although the tem])erature of the air was two degrees
below freezing-])oint, as to raise the temperature in my
tent to 82°, rendering it almost unbearable. Having
written to Cai)tain Nnres, Parr started off as lightly
;il)2
VoYAflE TO TIIH VOl.Ml SKA.
Jink
-
■ '■•
nccoiitrod as possible. Wo all wished him G()(l-sj)e('(l,
and will he anxious to hear of his safe ai'i'ival. Ail
hands appear scry slill' and in pain. Porlei' is veiy
low, and is undonhledly in a very |)re('ariou.s state.
' 8/A. — Pool" Poi'lei' is no more! lie expired at
ten minutes |)ast noon. lie was sensible to within a
lew minutes of his death, and his end was calm and
(juiet. This is a sad calamity, althoULrh we were not
totally unprepared i'oi' it, and I fear the (le])ressin<j^
moral ell'ect that this lamentable event w\\\ have on
those who are very sick, and Avho consider themselves
tt) be in nearly as precarious u condition.
'With the ensijin half-mast, and the Union Jiick as
H ])all, the funei'al procession, attended by all but the
four very bad cases, started at nine; and the bui'ial
sei'vice beinu" I'cad, the remains were consio-ned to
their last icy restiu^'-|)lace in this world. Improvisino-
a rude cross, formed with u boat's oar and a. spare
sledge-batten, it was placed at the head of the ijfrave,
with the loUowinuf inscription :~-
BENKATII THIS CKfISS UK riUlUED TIIK KKMAINS
OK
(JKO. roi.'TIMJ, 15. M. A.,
WHO i)n;i) ON jcne Htii, Is7(i.
" Tliv Avill he done."
li
' Of all the inehmclioly and mournful duties I have
ever been called upon to perform, tliis lias been the
saddest. A death in a small ]3arty like oiu\s, and
under the ])resent circumstances, is a, most distressing:
ih:(j
DMATFI OK ({KOLMiM roiiTMl!.
have
the
and
:>ssin<i
I'vent, and is ki'i'iily lelt hy :ill. Duriiiu" tlu' htvIci'
all were more or less iid'ccled, iind iiiiiny lo Icni's.
''0th. — A wild thick day, willi ;i IVcsli l)i'ee/e from
the iiorthwiird. Invalids in m very depressed state,
notwithslandin^j; all ell'orts niiide to cheer lliem. All
eyes ea^'erly directed to the southwai'd, the quartei-
tVom which we are anxiously expectin;/ succour. We
had advanced tlie heavy sledire one slji^iv, and had just
returned to drajuf up the two sniiiller ones, when some-
thing movinj^ between the hummocks was espied,
which from its i';i|)i(l motion was soon made out to he
the dojJT-sledfjfe. Hoisted colours. The men ap|)eared
quite carried away by their feehn^'s, and it was with
diflieulty they could nuister n|) a cheer as May and
Moss arrived and shook us lieartily by the liiuids. Our
deliijfht Wiis enhanced on beinu' informed that thev
were only the advance of a laruer ])arty comin<; (mt to
our rehef, lieaded by the Captnin himself, and neiii'ly
all the ofhcers. A halt was immediately ordered,
cooking utensils lighted, water made, and we were
soon all enjoying a good draught of limejuice, with
mutton for sui)])er in ])rospective. Our s])irits rose
wonderfully, and, as if nature also wished to partici-
pate in our joy, the weather began to break, and the
Sim sh<me out. Eesumed the marcli, May ])ushing on
with his dog-sledge, and camping about half-a-mile to
the southward of us, they not having rested for many
hours so eager was he to afford us relief. The travel-
ling was very good, and we got along famously, every
one apparently much invigorated, cheerful, and in
good sj)irits.
' 10th. — We all, including the sick, consumed and
VOYAHK TO THE POI.All S|;A.
June
ii I
I'clislied our ])aiiiiikiii full of ox-check and mutton tliat
we ])iul for sii])|)ei' last niu'lit, and a<i^reed that it was
one of the most delicious repasts that we had ever j)ar-
taken of. After lunch sii^hted the main l)arty coming
towards us. Hoisted colours. 12.45, met the Captain
and his party, fi-om all of whom we received a warm
and kind grectinu". No time was wasted in askinjjj
questions, but the march renewed — my ])arty, the
lame ducks, draiiyinj^ one sledge, tlie relief party
drairu'inu" the other two, th ; invalids who had been
walking being i)Ut on the do<i:-sledu"e.
' Vltli. — May went on with dog-sledge to the shi]),
taking Siiirley and Petirson. The travelling all day
has been remarkably good, and we succeed in getting
along famously; our only diiriculty is in going through
deep snow, when the men, their legs being so bad, are
<*,om|)elled to sto]) and drag them out of the holes
into which they shik, Winstone, with the aid of a
.staff, manages to keep up with us.
' lo.'A. — Legs verij stiff, but the idea of soon getting
on board tlie ship acted as a good restorative. Ob-
served the dog-sledge coming over Mushroom Point.
Hoisted colours. Sent Winstone, Lawrence, and
Hai'ley to the shij) on May's sledge. Arrived on Mush-
room Point at 8.30. Dej)osited, in tent ])itched there,
all ])rovisi()ns. Eesumed the march, arriving alongside
tile shi|) at half-past ojie on the monihig of Wednesday
the 14th of June.
' Out of my original ])arty of lifteen men, three only
— namely, lladmoi'e, Joliffe, and Maskell — were capable
of draggmg the sledue ; the remaining eleven liavinuf
been carried aloniisi(lc on the relief sledi>es.'
187(5 CONCLUSIONS DllAWN FROM TllK .lOUliNEY. lV,)h
After ]iis returi> Coininuiuler Markluim ro|)ortL'd: —
' I feel it inii)os.sil)le for my pen to (le[)ict witli
accuracy, and yet be not accused of exa_u'<zeration, the
numerous drawbacks tlint impeded t)ur pro<,n'ess. Oni'
])oint, however, in my opinion is most delinitely settk'd,
and that is, the utter imjmicticabiUty of reaciiing the
North Pole over the floe in this locality; and in this
ojiinion my able colleague, Lieutenant Parr, entirely
conciU"s. I am convinced that with the very lightest
equipped sledges, carrying no boats, and with all the
resources of the ship concentrated in the one direction,
and also su])[)osing that perfect health might be main-
tained, the latitude attained by the ])ai'ty I had the
honour and })leasure of commanding, would not be
exceeded by many miles, certainly not by a degree.'
In this I most fully concur. Markiiam's journey,
couple(^ with the ex|)erience gained by Sir Edward
Parry in the smnmer of 1827, and more recently the
memorable retreat of I/ieutenaut Weyprecht and his
com})anions after having abandoned the ' Tegetthoff '
oif the coast of Francis Joseph Land, })roves that a
lengthened Journey over the Polar pack-ice with a
sledge party equi})])ed with a ))oat lit for navigable
purposes is im])racticable at any season of the year.
The much-to-be-deploi'ed outbreak of scurvy in no
way atiects the conclusions to be derived from the
journey.
KND 01' THE FIRST VOLUlklE.
SjifMisavvile <<• C(i.. I'riiitirs, AVev-sltrcl Si/iiaii and /'arliaiiHH' .^V/fY.